LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Chap. ...Lj^ Copyright x\o. Shelf *v5.5;ig: UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY IN nVE PARTS Part I. — Soups, Fish, Oysters, Game, Poultry, Meats. Part II.^Entiees, Salads, Cold Dishes, Eggs, Vegetables. Part III. — Bread and Other Yeast Raised Articles, Cakes, Puddings, etc. Part IV. — The Family Confectioner, Ice Creams, Frozen Desserts, Candy Making. Part V. — Ornamental Cookery, Notes on the Selec- tion of Wine, Remarks About the Cor- rect Service of the Table. By EUGENE GIRARD THE MASSENA OBSERVER PRINTING HOUSE, MASSENA, NEW YORK. 97037 Librwry of Condreea Iwu Ciit*(ES Received DEC 311900 -.^ Copynght ontry SECOND COPY Oetivwad to OHOCR DIVISION JAN 14 1901 Entered According to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian at Washington, by Eugene Girard, December, 1900. PREFACE. One who would add to the hundreds of reliable cook books in existence, many of them by masters of the art, must show that a necessity still exists which he can supply. A cook book has not yet been published which condenses into a small volume all that pertains to fine cooking and correct table service. This task the author feels he has accomplished in a form that renders it an intelligent and practical guide to the housekeeper and family cook, as well as the club manager and restaurateur. I confidently trust that I have conscientiously and faithfully fulfilled the promises of the title of my work. It is for others to appreciate the execution of the difficult task I have assumed, and I hope it may receive favorable consideration. EUGENE GIRARD. ^ ^ ^ PART L ^ ^ ^ SOUPS, CONSOMMES, CHOWDERS, ETC. nSH, OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, CLAMS, CRABS MEATS. Broiled, Boiled, Roasted, Fried. GAME, POULTRY, CARVING, PRESERVATION OF MEATS. Soups^ Consommes^ Bouillons^ Chowders. HOW TO MAKE STOCK. Stock is the basis of all meat soup. The large quantities produced in hotels and the lengthy methods employed in its pro- duction are impracticable and unneces- sary for a private family. The best fla- Tored stock is that which simmers only six hours. There are two kinds of stock. The ordinary stock made with beef-shin, knuckles of veal, poultry, and other beef and veal trimmings is used for most of the soups hereafter mentioned. Light stock used in the preparation of white soup, such as cream of chicken and rice, etc., etc., is made with veal bones, chicken and trimmings. The best stock is made entirely from raw meat and cracked bones, but pieces of underdone beef and the bones left from the dinner joints, also the roasted turkey and chicken bones will make a good stock. Roasted meats give the stock a rich amber color — but do not use boiled meats. Save all the bits of roasted meat and bones, trimmings of poultry, etc., left over from the preceding meals and make your stock as follows: Seven pounds of beef-shin or neck piece, or seven pounds of veal knuckles, one small turnip or parsnip, one large carrot, one large onion, two or three stalks of celery, two ounces of salt, a dozen •whole peppers, a pinch of mace, a bunch of aromatic herbs (no sage), five quarts of cold water. Always use cold water, hot water seals up the meat and prevents the juice from oozing out. i.'ut the meat, break the bones, wash them carefully in cold water; take a bright kettle, put in a piece of but- ter the size of a small lemon, let it melt, then add the meat and bones, vegetables and spices, pieces and trimmings saved from the preceding meals, and a pint of water; place on a brisk fire, cover tightly, and stir frequently. When the bottom of the kettle is covered with a light colored substance add the rest of the water and let simmer gently for six hours. Skim carefully as the scum rises. When done strain through a cheese-cloth and remove all the fat which will quickly come to the surface. Keep it in glass jars in a cool place and it will be good several days, but you must not cover the jars until the^ stock is perfectly cold. IviGHT Stock. Proceed as for ordinary stock, using only veal, poultry and trimming. J -GREEN TURTLE SOUP. The English Nobility's Favorite. Made of the green sea turtle, but not necessarily of a green tinge, which is im- parted by the green herbs used in its preparation. But in this country, thyme, marjoram, savory, and sweet basil can be obtained only in the dry state; but green celery and onion tops, and a good deal of parsley only scalded and washed and pounded through a sieve will give the green tinge, but if this cannot be obtained give the soup a nice brown color. If the soup is to be served at a six o'clock din- ner the turtle may be cut up in the morn- ing, otherwise if the soup is to be served at the noon meal the stock and turtle must be made ready the night before. Kill the turtle by partly cutting off the head, tie a stout fishing twine to the hind fins, then immerse it in a boiler partly full of boiling water and let it stand from ten to twenty minutes, according to the size of the turtle, then pull off all you can of the horny coating and the black cuticle from the neck, head and fins. Take off the bottom shell (don't open it like you would an oyster, that is by divid- ing the shell, as you will spoil some of the best meat), cut in the shell about I an inch from the edge and then cut under PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. cutting avray as much of the calipee (white meat) as you can without cutting into the entrails. Remove the entrails, taking the great- est possible care not to break the gall. Dismember the fins at the sockets; next cut the calipash (dark meat) from the back shell. It is not possible to take it out whole, but take it out in as large pieces as possible. Cut the green fat from the fin sockets and around the edges of the shell, let that stand in ice water. Saw the shell in pieces to boil in the stock along with the head. For a turtle weighing thirty pounds you will require the following ingredi- ents, but you must add and deduct ac- cording to the size of the turtle. 13 quarts of soup stock. 3 medium sized onions. Yz teaspoonful allspice. Yz teaspoonful (small) whole cloves. 2 bay leaves. 1 blade of mace. Yz pound of flour. % lb. good butter. Yz lb. raw ham. Y> pint Madeira wine. 2 small lemons. Green or dry herbs. Salt, cayenne and white pepper. This will make seven quarts of soup. If you want the soup for six o'clock dinner, and the turtle and stock are all ready, begin at ten o'clock. Put the shell and head in the bottom of a bright kettle, or stock boiler if you have one, pour the cold stock over; boil gently, taking care to remove the scnui as it rises. Then add one of the onions, the spices, half a teaspoonful of black pepper, same of thyme and savory, and peel of a small lemon. At two o'clock take three bright stew pans, one each for the green fat, calipee (white meat) and calipash (dark meat). Put enough of the turtle stock in each of the stew pans to cover the meat. The fat will cook in one-half an hour, the calipee in two and one-half hours. The different parts may cook in less time. Keep close watch for the parts must be neatly cut and trimmed, not done too much. When the different parts are taken out and placed on dishes to cool what remains in the stew pans goes back in the boiler or kettle containing the shell. When the cooked turtle meat lA cold enough, cut it into squares and keep it ready. At four o'clock cut the ham in very thin slices, lay it in a sauce pan with the three-fourths pound of butter, and rest of the onions cut fine; let that cook until it begins to fry ; add the flour, stir thorough- ly, and place the sauce pan in the oven till the mixture is a nice straw color. Take it out of the oven, place on the range again, and stir in first a little of the stock, adding until the pan is full, taking pains to prevent the mixture from being lumpy. When finished pour the contents in the stock boiler or kettle, let the mix- ture slowly boil a half hour more. Strain through a fine strainer in the soup jar or kettle and let simmer about fifteen min- utes; then skim the fat, squeeze the juice of one lemon in a half teacupful of cold water, put that in the soup, let it stand a few minutes more, and skim again. Add the turtle meat and fat, season with salt and cayenne. If you have the green herbs already mentioned, scald and press them through a sieve, otherwise let the soup be of its own color. Now for the turtle eggs, cook them separately and add last, or else make que- nelles with pounded white meat of chicken, a raw yolk, and minced parsley made into small balls; stew them sepa- rately. Add the rest of the lemon juice and Madeira wine just before serving. TuRTivE Soup a i^a Creoi,e. Turtle Soup a la Creole is made like the foregoing, with the addition of stewed tomatoes; one quart of tomato to four of stock. The tomatoes having been stewed down before adding to the stock. 2— TURTLE SOUP. A good substitute for the original green turtle, made in about two hours and a half: I can turtle. 4 quarts of soup stock. I chicken. I veal shank. I ham knuckle. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. I large lemon. I carrot. I parsnip or turnip. ^ lb. of flour. ^ lb. of butter. Herbs and spice mentioned in recipe No. I. I tumblerful of Marsala or Madeira wine Mince the vegetables, place them in a bright kettle with about two ounces of butter; then the chicken, veal shank and ham, the spices, and half a pint of stock, proceed as for making ordinary stock, then add the rest of the stock and half of the wine, boil gently until the chicken is tender, strain, skim the fat that will rise. Half an hour before the chicken is done open the can of turtle, place it in hot water, drain all the liquor in the strained soup. Brown the flour in the oven; put it in a saucepan with the butter and about a pint of the soup; rub this smooth and keep adding soup till the saucepan is full; pour this thickening in the soup-kettle, let it simmer half an hour more; skim all that rises. Put in the herbs as directed in recipe No. i. Strain again through a fine sieve. Add the turtle meat, the rest of the wine, a pinch of cayenne, and more salt if needed. Quenelles if desired, see recipe No. i. 3 —MOCK TURTLE. A rich gravy soup flavored with toma- toes. 5 quarts of ordinary stock. I quart can of tomatoes. 1 pint of brown gravy (if any). yi, lb. of flour. % lb. of butter. 2 cupfuls of mixed vegetables, celery, carrots, turnips, onions. 2 hard boiled eggs. I teaspoonful of mixed ground spices. I slice of ham lightly fried; as much of lean roast beef or pork. I lemon. Yz teaspoonful of curry. Put the tomatoes in a saucepan with the minced vegetables, and two ounces of butter. Stew the mixture until it begins to fry; the tomatoes will then have changed from red to a light brown. Put this mixture in with the stock, spices, curry and gravy; let it boil gently while you are making the thickening with the browned flour and rest of the butter, as mentioned in the preceding recipes; when done put it in the soup, let it boil a few minutes more, skim off the fat. Cut the ham and cold meat into small squares about the size of a pea bean; chop the eggs, throw all in the soup. Put a thin slice of lemon in each plate. 4 —CLEAR TURTLE SOUP. Will make four qiiarts of soup after reduction by boiling. 8 quarts of soup stock. A 25 lb. turtle, % lb. of raw beef. % lb. of raw sliced ham. 5 whites of eggs. Yz cup of button mushroom. 1 large onion. Yz tumbler Madeira. 2 small lemons. Yz teaspoonful of whole pepper. Yz teaspoonful of mace. 1 bay leaf. A handful of parsley. Salt and cayenne. Place the turtle shell and sliced ham in a bright kettle; cover them with the stock; boil about one hour; skim carefully; put in the turtle meat, boil about one and a half hours, taking great care that none of the meat cooks too much. Take it out as it ap- pears done. When cold enough take the bones out, put them back in the kettle with the mushrooms, onions, spices, and the rind of a small lemon. An hour and a half before serving strain the soup in a crock or stone jar. Let it stand on the table about twenty minutes, skim oflf the top, pour it back in the kettle through a fine strainer, add the whites of eggs, the peel of one lemon, a cup of ice-water, and the minced raw beef. Set it back on the range, and when the whites are well cooked strain through a jelly bag or a doubled napkin. Then put in the turtle meat and eggs or quenelles, taking care that there are no fragments of eggs, and use only the meat that will not float. The turtle meat that floats should not be used in the clear soup. Some turtle soup 1.2 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. makers use the green in this soup, but we do not deem it advisable. Just before serving add the wine and a thin slice of lemon. 5 —CLEAR MOCK TURTLE. Proceed as in No. 4, using a scalded calf's head instead of a turtle. The tongue and meat from the calf's head being cut in squares and served precisely as the turtle meat in the foregoing recipe. Do not omit the quenelles or egg balls. 6 —CONSOMME BRUNOISE. 3 quarts ordinary stock. I white of egg. %, cup of carrot and turnips, cut in small squares not larger than a marrowfat pea, better smaller. Yj, cup bright green peas. Yz cup lean raw beef, minced. Strain and skim the stock, add the raw beef and white of egg in a cup of cold water; set it on to boil. When the egg is well cooked strain through a jelly bag. Cook the vegetables in water; when done wash them, and with the peas add them to the consomme. You may color with a spoonful of meat extract or liquid burnt sugar. 7— COLORING. Liquid Burnt Sugar. One cup of sugar and a tablespoonful of water. Set it on the side of the range in a small kettle. When of a verj' dark brown, almost black, add a pint of water; let it boil until all dissolved, pour it in a stout bottle. 8— CONSOMME CALCUTTA. 3 quarts of ordinary stock. I veal shank. Yz lb. lean raw beef. I white of egg. I pint of tomatoes. I teaspoonful of curry. Generous pinch of cayenne. Roast the veal shank until light brown; put it in the soup kettle, cover with the stock, boil gentlj' about an hour and a half. Strain and skim; add the raw beef, the white of egg in a pint of ice water;^ when cool strain through a jelly bag. Stew the tomatoes with the curry and cayenne until you have a thick puree» force through a sieve and serve a tea- spoonful in each plate without mixing. This consomme should be of a nice brandy color. 9— CONSOMME CHATELAINE. 3 quarts of ordinar}' stock. I roasted chicken. Boil the roasted chicken in the stocky this will give it a peculiar flavor and right color. Strain, skim, and clarify in the same way as directed in recipe No. 6 with the lean beef and white of egg. When done strain through a jelly bag. Mince very fine a few button mushrooms and young onions, about one-fourth cup each; break two eggs in a bowl, beat them; add the minced mushrooms and onions; steam like any custard. When cold cut in square shapes; serve six or seven in each plate of consomme. Keep the chicken for an entree. 10— CONSOMME JARDINIERE. 3 quarts ordinary stock. I pint mixed vegetables (green peas^ beans, small carrots, turnip, a small green cucumber, one large ®nion). Clarify in the usual way with egg and raw beef , strain, and color if necessary. Cut the beans and other vegetables in small squares, remove all the green out- side and seeds of the cucumber. Boil all together until tender, drain the water, wash and put the vegetables in the con- somme; serve with toasted crackers^ n— CONSOMME IMPERIAL- 4 quarts of ordinary stock. I shank of veal. I fowl. Yz pint of Madeira (optional). I carrot. I onion. Saw the veal shank in small pieces; lay them in a roasting pan, the fowl on top, with the minced carrot and onion strewn all over, dredge with salt and pepper; add one pint of stock. Bake in the oven until PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 13 a nice light brown. Put the whole con- 1 tents of the pan in the soup kettle; cover with the four quarts of stock, and boil very gently about two hours; remove from the range; let stand about one-half hour, skim carefully; then clarify in the usual way with raw beef and egg; strain through the jelly bag. Make a custard with two eggs mixed with two or three tablespoon- fuls of the consomme. When cold cut into shapes and serve in the plates. Add the wine just before serving. J2— WINE IN THE PREPARATION OF SOUP. Many persons object to the use of wine in the preparation of soup, in most cases it can be omitted. Very often, indeed, persons that are not in the habit of using wine in any kind of preparations prefer the soup without any. The writer, who had the priviledge of being employed in England by a millionaire, noted as much for his temperance as for his millions, never drank wine of any kind, but allowed the generous use of it in the preparation of food, claiming that wine in this case was nothing more than a flavoring ex- tract. He was a man possessing more than his share of intelligence, and the author is rather inclined to think in a like manner. J3— CREAM OF ASPARAGUS. The soiip to be perfect should be made of fresh asparagus, but when this cannot be obtained, canned asparagus may be used. i}4 lbs. of green asparagiis, or 2 lbs. canned. 2 quarts light stock (see stock). 1 large onion minced. 2 slices of salt pork. I quart of light cream or new milk. }4 cup butter; if cream is used instead of milk, X cup of butter will be sufiScient. I teacupful of flour. Cut off the heads, or tops of the aspara- gus, which will be cooked separately; put the rest in the kettle with the onion and salt pork; cover with the stock; season lightly with white pepper and a pinch of mace; boil three-fourths of an hour. Fifteen minutes before the soup is cooked put the tips to boil in some of the soup. Put the butter in a sauce pan, melt it on the shelf of the range, and warm the milk or cream in a double dish. When the butter is melted throw in the flour; set the pan over a hot fire, stir briskly, adding the milk in small por- tions until it is all in. When this cream sauce is done set the pan back on the shelf. Strain the soup; rub the asparagus through the strainer; put in the tips; mix the cream sauce; salt and butter to taste. Care must be taken in making the cream sauce that the flour and butter do not color previous to adding the milk or cream. I4-CREAM OF POTATOES. 2 quarts of light stock. 6 potatoes. I large onion. I slice of salt pork. I quart of milk. }i cup of flour. Boil the stock about half an hour with the pork and onion in it. Take the fresh cooked potatoes, mash them thoroughly, add the milk, beat a moment, strain the soup stock; mix in the potatoes; set on the range. When the soup boils, thicken with the flour previously mixed smooth in cup of milk. It should be thickened enough to prevent the potatoes from set- tling to the bottom. Mince very fine some parsley, or green celery tops, and sprinkle on top. 15— TOMATO SOUP. 2 quarts of stock. I quart tomatoes ( thick ) . % lb. salt pork. I cup flour thickening. I onion. I tablespoonful sugar. Boil the stock; tomatoes, salt pork, on- ion, and sugar one hour, then thicken with the flour thickening (flour and cold water mixed smooth like cream). The soup should have the consistency of cream. Put through a strainer, pound or mash till nothing is left of the tomatoes but the seeds. Salt and white pepper. M PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. J6-TOMATO MACARONI SOUP. Same as No. 15 with the addition of a cupful of cooked macaroni and a sprinkle of grated cheese on top. 17— TOMATO SOUP WITH VERMI- CELLI. Same as No. 16, use vermicelli instead of macaroni. The vermicelli will cook in the soup in about ten minutes. J8— TOMATO AND RICE SOUP. Same as No. 15, but do not thicken with flour, strain the soup when ready and add a small half cup of rice previously washed in cold water, and boil very gently three- quarters of an hour. The rice will thicken the soup sufficiently. 19— TOMATO GREEN PEA SOUP. Same as No. 15, with the addition of a half cup of green peas. 20— PUREE OF TOMATO AU CROU- TON. 2 quarts of tomatoes. 1 small minced onion. 2 quarts of water, or stock. I teaspoonful of sugar. I teaspoonful of salt. % cup of butter. % cup of flour. Boil the tomatoes, onions, stock, sugar and salt gently one hour (always boil soups gently) . Make a thickening of the butter and flour as directed for cream of asparagus (No. 13) using some of the to- mato mixture from the kettle instead of milk; when ready pour all together and rub through a sieve. Salt and pepper. Serve with croutons. 2J— CROUTONS FOR SOUP, Three or four thin slices of bread cut in small squares; baked in a buttered pan in the oven, but a good deal better fried in hot lard like you would doughnuts; you may fry them in clarified butter or olive oil. 22— CREAM OF TOMATOES. Proceed as directed for puree of toma- toes (No. 20), use a half teaspoonful of saleratus in place of the sugar. Just be- fore serving add a pint of cream previous- ly warmed in a double dish. 23-CONSOMME DE STAEL. The name was given in 1814 in allusion to Madame de Stael, the famous politi- cian, and author of Corrinne, Delphine, and other well known books. Make twice the quantity of ordinary stock, boil it down to three quarts. This stock must be made the night before and strained in a jar, skim off all the fat, pour carefully in the soup kettle, leaving the sediment in the bottom of the jar. Chop a half pound of lean beef, a carrot, a small turnip, a piece of celery the length of your finger, and a small onion; add all of the stock, boil , and strain through a nap- kin; set it over the fire again, simmer gently, skim and season. Make quenelles with half a breast of chicken, a little grated lemon rind, half teaspoonful of finely minced parsley, one or two yolks of eggs; cut in round shapes about one-half inch in diameter. Make croutons of the same shape. Serve seve- ral of each in every plate. Before serving poach the quenelles in hot water. 24— CONSOMME CLAREMONT. Make a nice clear consomme as directed for imperial in No. 11. Slice some nice white onions, dust these with flour, fry in a kettle of hot lard like Saratoga chips, when of a nice color and fried dry (be sure to have the lard hot enough), drain carefully and serve in the plates of consomme, 25— CONSOMME A LA PAYSANNE. 3 quarts of ordinary stock. yi lb. raw beef. % cup green peas, I cup shredded cabbage. % cup of squash cut in small pieces about size of peas. Clarify the consomme with the beef and eggs as directed in recipe No. 6, Cook PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 15 the vegetables in water, drain when done, add these to the consomme, salt and ■white pepper. 26— CONSOMME KNIC3CER- BOCKER. 3 quarts of chicken broth. y^ Clip (small) barley. I large tomato. 1 each of onion, carrot and turnip. I stalk of celery. I teaspoonful of sugar. Skim and strain the chicken broth. Cut the mixture of vegetables in very small dice, peel the tomato, cut it in small pieces. Sprinkle all the vegetables ■with sugar and fry them, using a piece of butter the size of an egg, and -when slightly colored add them to the broth. Cook the barley separately, drain it, put in the soup; season to taste. 27— MULLIGAWTANY SOUP No. I. The original receipt for Mulligawtany eomes from India. The name itself is a composite of two East Indian names. Boil a fowl so that when it is done you ■will have five pints of broth; cook in this broth half a cup of rice and a small par- snip or turnip cut in small dice; when done add the chicken white meat cut in squares, one teaspoonful curry, season, thicken lightly with flour thickening. 28— MULLIGAWTANY No. 2. a quarts of ordinary stock. I carrot. j4 cup of flour. }i cup of butter. I pint tomatoes. }i cup of olives. 1 teaspoonful of curry, $ slices of corned tongue. I onion. Stew down the tomatoes with the onion minced in it. Put the stock in the kettle with the curry, stewed tomato and onion, boil gently half an hour. Cut the carrot in dice and cook separately. Brown the flour and butter lightly in the oven, thicken the soup with this, strain through a sieve, add the carrots and olives cut in pieces; serve with a slice of the cooked corned tongue. 29— FISH MULLIGAWTANY. A 2 lb. fish — pike, salmon or snapper. I onions. % cup of rice. Lemon, salt, cayenne. ^ cup of flour. 1 heaping teasp®onful curry. Boil the fish in water with a little salt, you must have two quarts of the fish stock. Fry the onions in butter the size of an ^gg, fry only to change color; throw them in the fish stock. Brown the flour and mix it with some of the stock, and add it for thickening. Mix the curry with the juice of a lemon; throw this in the kettle; simmer ten minutes, then strain and set at the side of the range about half an hour, and skim all that rises. Pick the fish from the bones and skin, put it in the tureen, pour the soup on top, serve a generous spoonful of steamed rice in each plate. 30— CONSOMME A LA COLBERT. 2 quarts of ordinary stock. % cup French green peas. Eggs. Clarify the stock; season to taste; add to each plate one poached egg well done, and a spoonful of the peas. 3J— VEAL SOUP. Put a knuckle of veal into three quarts of cold water, with a small quantity of salt, and one small tablespoonful of un- cooked rice. Boil slowly, hardly above simmering, four hours, when the liquor should be reduced to half the usual quan- tity ; remove from fire. Into the tureen put the yolk of an egg, and stir well into it a teacupful of cream, or, in hot weather, new milk; add a piece of butter the size of a lemon; on this strain the soup, boil- ing hot, stiring all the time. Just at the last, beat it well for a minute. 32— ONION SOUP. I quart of milk. 6 large onions. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Yolks of 4 eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. I large tablespoonful of flour. I cupful of cream. Salt, pepper. Put the butter in a frying pan. Cut the onions into thin slices and drop in the butter. Stir until they begin to cook; then cover tight and set back where they will simmer, but not burn, for half an hour. Now put the milk on to boil, and then add the dry flour to the onions and stir constantly for three minutes over the fire; then turn the mixture into the milk and cook fifteen minutes. Rub the soup through a sieve, return to the fire, season •with salt and pepper. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, add the cream to them and stir into the soup. Cook three minutes, stirring constantly. If you have no cream, use milk, in which case add a tablespoonful of butter at the same time. Serve with croutons. 4 33— CHIC2CEN GUMBO SOUP. Gumbo, or okra, can be bought fresh in the South, but in the North and West we generally buy it canned. Okra is gela- tinous, and a favorite soup vegetable of the Creole. I chicken. I carrot. I turnip. I large onion. 1 thick slice of ham. I can of okra. Cut the chicken in about a dozen pieces; the ham into strips the length and width of two fingers; fry them in butter. Mince the carrot, turnip and onion; put them in the sauce pan with the chicken. When the contents of the sauce pan are getting br(.\vn add three quarts of stock. Tie up a hunch of tliyme, parsley, one bay leaf, and four cloves; drop this in the soup; boil until the chicken is tender; then put in one can of okra, it will thicken the soup sufliciently. Season to taste. You may serve in each plate a spoonful of cooked rice or vermicelli — this is op- tional. 34— CONSOMME PRINT ANIER. Make a nice consomme as directed for consomme imperial; add half cup of gfreen peas and as much of asparagus tips. 35— CONSOMME AU QUENELLES. 3 quarts of stock. I each of carrot, onion and turnip. I roasted fowl. The bones and remains of roast beef or veal can be used in place of the fowl. Put the vegetables in the soup kettle, lay the roasted fowl on these; cover with the stock; boil about an hour; strain and clarify with raw beef and egg. Make egg balls in the following man- ner: Take four yolks, hard boiled, pound them with an equal amount of butter; add to this enough flour to make a stifJ dough; make in balls size of grapes; poach these in hot water, and serve several in each plate. 36— CONSOMME ROYAL. Make a rich amber-colored consomme like No. 35; make a custard with two eggs and half a cup of the consomme; bake in the oven with a cover on the dish so that the custard will not get brown on top. When done cut in shapes or squares; serve five or six in each plate. 37_CONSOMME AU VERMICELLI. Made like No. 35; break in a handful of vermicelli and simmer gently about fifteen minutes. 38-CREAM OF CHICKEN. I fowl. I onion. I quart of cream or new milk. }4 cup of butter. I cup of flour. Boil the fowl with the minced onion, you must have two quarts of broth when the fowl is done. Make a cream sauce with the butter, flour and milk as directed for cream of asparagus. When ready mix with the broth; strain through a fine sieve; cut in the white meat of the fowl in small pieces just as you would for salad; put them in the soup; season to taste. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 39— CREAM OF CELERY. 1 head of celery. 2 quarts of stock. I pint of cream or milk. 1 minced onion. ^ cup of flour. ^ cup of butter. Salt and white pepper. Boil the stock with the chopped head of celery and minced onion about half an hour. Make a cream sauce with the flour, butter and milk; mix with the contents of the kettle; strain through a sieve; sprinkle on top some finely minced green celery tops. 40-CREAM OF BARLEY. 2 quarts of stock. I quart of milk: 1 cupful of minced vegetables. Boil the stock with the minced vege- tables in it; boil the barley in two quarts of water; when done strain the water away; put the barley in the milk and let It simmer on the side of the range about half an hour, in the meantime strain the broth ; then rub through a sieve the puree of milk and barley; mix all together; serve hot with croutons. 41— CONSOMME AU MACARONL Made like No. 35, with the addition of boiled macaroni cooked separately, and put in the consomme before serving. 42— CONSOMME AU SHERRY. Consomme may be used with any other wine, Madeira, Port, Marsala, or Chan- tilly. Make a rich amber-colored con- somme, simply add any of the above mentioned wine and you have consomme au sherry, or whatever the wine may be. 43— CREAM OF RICE. 2 quarts of water. 2 lbs. breast of lamb. I quart milk. I cup rice. Boil the water with a cut up carrot, turnip and onion, and breast of lamb. Cook the rice in the milk. When the breast of lamb is done take it out to make an entree. Strain the broth, and rub through a fine sieve, mix with the broth; add some butter or cream. 44— OX TAIL, No. I. I ox tail. I carrot. I onion. I turnip. ^^ cup pearl barley. Cut the ox tail in slices half an inch thick; cover with cold water; add the on- ion whole with two cloves stuck in; boil gently; when the meat is done take it out and lay it on a dish ready to serve in the plates; cook the barley separately, throw the water away; cut the turnip and carrot in small dice, cook them in a little water; put them with the barley in the soup; serve two or three slices of the ox tail in each plate. je 45— ox TAIL No. 2. 3 quarts of stock. I ox tail. I cup of flour. A bunch of aromatic herbs. I carrot. I turnip. 3 outside stalks of celery. I onion. Salt, cayenne. Cut the ox tail in slices about an inch thick; set it on to boil with the stock; salt and pepper, cut the vegetables in round shapes with a small cutter; put the scraps of vegetables in the kettle with the bunch of herbs; when the meat is done strain through a very coarse strainer. Cook the shapes of vegetables in the strained soup ; when these are done thicken with the flour; color if necessary with a little burnt sugar. Serve three or four slices of the meat in each plate. 46— PUREE OF MUSHROOM POMMERY. 2 quarts of light stock. I partridge, or 3 quails. I can button mushrooms. ^ cup of butter. }i cup of flour. AU i8 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. I quart of cream or new milk. 1 wineglass full of champagne. Boil the birds in the stock until they fall apart, adding water if necessary, so as to have two quarts of stock after Straining. When the birds are done strain the liquor in a jar; save the meat for cro- quettes or any other entree. Make the cream sauce with cream or milk, butter, and flour as directed for cream of aspara- gus (No. 13). Mix the sauce with the contents of jar. Mince the mushrooms ▼ery fine; put them in the soup; season to taste; add the wine just before serving. The word Pommery is probably an al- lusion to the celebrated champagne bear- ing the name of Pommery & Greno. 47— PUREE OF BEANS. 2 quarts of ordinary stock. ^ pint of pea beans. I small onion. Prepared mustard. Salt and cayenne. Let the beans stand in cold water over night; boil in the stock with the onions finely minced, until they are thoroughly cooked; rub through a sieve; add a little stock or water if the puree is too thick. Just before serving stir in a tablespoonful of prepared mustard; season with salt and cayenne. Croutons or thin slices of toasted bread (optional). 48-PlJREE OF SPLIT PEAS. 1 lb. of split peas. % lb. salt pork. 5 pints water. Steep the peas in water about two hours before cooking. Cut the pork in slices, lay in the bottom of the soup kettle, the split peas on top; cover with the water; boil gently until the peas are thoroughly cooked, rub through a sieve; season to taste, and serve with croutons. 49— PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. 2 pints of fresh green peas. 2 quarts of light stock. % lb. salt pork. I carrot. I turnip. 1 stalk of celery. Boil all together until the peas are cooked tender, take out the pork and vegetables, rub through a sieve; served very hot with thin buttered toast. 50— PUREE OF CARROTS. 3 quarts of ordinary stock. Yz doz. large carrots. 1 lb. corned beef or ham. Soup vegetables if any handy. Boil all together; when the carrots are done take out the corned beef and other vegetables; mash the carrots through a sieve; thicken with a large spoonful of corn starch previously mixed in a little cold water, this will keep the carrot pulp from settling to the bottom. Season with minced red pepper and salt. Serve with croutons. 5J-CORN CHOWDER. Should be made of green com, but if this cannot be had, use canned com. 2 large potatoes. I pint of green com, or one can. 1 onion. 2 slices of salt pork. 1 quart of milk. 3 or 4 soda crackers. 2 quarts of water. Salt and white pepper. Slice the potatoes very thin, mince the onion, boil in the water about one hour; then add the corn, milk and broken crackers. Cut the raw pork in small dice, fry it crisp, take extra care not to burn the fat in the frying pan ; throw the melted fat, and pieces of salt pork in the kettle. Season, and serve very hot. 52— FISH CHOWDER. A 2 lb. fish, fresh haddock makes the best chowder, but any other kind of fish of a flaky nature will answer the purpose. 4 large cooked potatoes. Yz cup oysters. I large onion. Butter, crackers, seasoning. Cook the fish in three quarts of water; strain and put the fish stock in the soup kettle, the fish on a plate to cool. Add the minced onion; boil ten minutes; cut PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 19 the potatoes, put them in the chowder; cook the oysters in their own liquor; strain that in the kettle; cut the oj'sters, pick the fish, add the whole to the contents of the kettle; season with salt and white pepper. Just before serving crumble the crackers and put them in. 53— CLAM CHOWDER, No. I. Proceed as directed for fish chowder, but instead of fish and oysters use one pint of clams and the liquor. Treat the clams as you would the oysters in mak- ing the fish chowder. 54— CLAM CHOWDER No. 2. 1 pint of clams. 2 slices of pork. I pint raw sliced potatoes. I cup of tomato juice strained. I onion. Salt and pepper. Put two quarts of water in the soup ket- tle with the sliced potatoes, minced on- ion and tomato juice; boil about one hour, adding water if necessary, to have two quarts when done. Cut the salt pork in dice, fry it; add to the contents of the kettle. Cook the clams in a pint of wa- ter; when done strain the liquor in the chowder; cut the clams in three or four pieces; season to taste. Serve wdth crou- tons or broken crackers. 55— POTAGE DE LIEVRE. Game Soup. 1 good sized rabbit. 2 quarts of ordinary stock. I onion. I slice of ham. r glass of Claret "Bordeaux." r cup of browned flour. I lemon. I teaspoonful mixed ground spices. Take a good sized saucepan; chop the ham and onions, fry them a light brown with a piece of butter the size of an egg; then put in the rabbit cut up in pieces; fry a few minutes longer; add the stock; boil until the meat is tender; strain in the soup kettle; add one quart of stock, the spices, half of the wine, and tlie browned flour; boil fifteen minutes longer; strain again; throw in the meat cut up in neat squares, the rest of the wine; season to taste; serve with a thin slice of lemon on top. 56— SCOTCH MUTTON BROTH. 3 quarts of mutton stock. yz cup of pearl barley. I large turnip. I onion. I cup of lean boiled mutton. Make stock with mutton bones and vegetables, when ready strain and skim. Cut the onion and turnip in small dice and cook in the broth. Boil the barley separately and throw away the dark wa- ter. Add the lean mutton; thicken slightly; season. 57— BEEF BOUILLON. Bouillon is the French name for broth, a light beef tea without vegetables or sea- soning other than a little salt and pepper. For this a lean piece of beef should be used, and enough water to cover it; boil until the meat is tender; strain through a very coarse strainer so that the fine meat particles will go through; skim the fat oflf the top. This is not the aristocratic bouillon serv'ed in cups or cold. The article served in cups is consomme. 58-CONSOMME EN TASSE. Consomme in Cups. 1 veal shank. 4 lbs. of lean beef. 2 fowls. I roasted fowl. I bunch of soup vegetables. Cut the veal and beef; put them in the bottom of the kettle; the two fowls on top; cover with cold water; let it come to a boil, skim all that rises; then drop in the roasted fowl and vegetables; simmer from six to eight hours, or until the fowl falls apart; strain through a cheese cloth; put this stock away in a stone jar. Next day take one pound of lean beef; mince it; put it in the bottom of the kettle; pour the cold stock over, leaving the sediment in the jar; add the whites of four eggs, PRACTlCAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. let it come to a boil; when the egg is cooked strain through a jelly bag. Sea- son to taste; serve in cups with a slice of lemon on top. This should make about eight quarts of consomme. There is on sale in crockery stores a glass cup made purposely to serve con- somme; if these are used the consomme might be green or red, just for effect. ( See soup coloring. ) 59— ANDALUSIAN SOUP. 2 quarts of ordinary stock. I pint of tomatoes. I clove of garlic. I cupful of mixed vegetables (onion, carrot, turnip, celery). I cupful of browned flour. Boil the stock with the vegetables in it. Stew down the tomatoes with a little sugar and butter the size of an egg. Mix the browned flour with the stock, then the stewed tomatoes; Strain through a fine sieve; simmer on the side of the range until it is bright. 60— CAULIFLOWER SOUP. 3 quarts of light stock. I cauliflower. I pint of tomatoes. Cut the cauliflower in small pieces; wash in cold water; boil it in the stock with the tomatoes. Any pieces of toma- toes larger than a walnut should be cut before they are put into the soup; when the cauliflower is done add a piece of butter; season to taste. 6i— BISQUE DE HOMARD. Lobster Soup. 3 quarts of light stock. I cup of cream, or ^ cup butter. J4 cup of rice. I medium sized boiled lobster. A basting spoonful of old Sherry. Cook the rice in the stock; rub through a sieve; add the lobster meat from the body and claws cut in pieces the size of a hazel nut; pound the coral, add it to the bisque with the cream or butter and Sherry; season; serve very hot. 62— TERRAPIN SOUP. Cut up terrapins the same as a turtle, but instead of immersing the terrapin from ten to twenty minutes in boiling water let them boil until the sides crack open ; then proceed exactly as for green turtle, using the qiiantity of ingredients according to weight of the terrapin. 63— BISQUE OF PARTRIDGE A LA DEWEY. 3 quarts veal broth. 2 roasted partridges. I pint of roasted chestnut meal. )4 glass of Amontillado wine. Mash the chestnuts through a coarse sieve into the veal broth ; cut off the meat from the roasted partridges, pound it smooth; add to the contents of the kettle; season with cayenne and salt. Put in the wine just before serving. Season to taste. 64— TERRAPIN CREAM. A small terrapin. 3 quarts veal broth. A bunch of soup vegetables. 1 pint of cream. }4 tb. butter. 6 yolks of eggs. A spoonful of chopped parsley. Boil the terrapin as directed in the pre- ceding recipe; keep the meat separate; strengthen the veal broth vpith the juice dripping out of the terrapin when clean- ing them. Strain the broth through a fine sieve; thicken with yolks of eggs, and add the terrapin meat and cream. Sprinkle the parsley on top. 65-POOR MAN'S SOUP. 2 quarts of water. }4 cup rice. I carrot. I onion. I slice pork. Cook the rice in the water with the on- ion and carrot cut in very small dice. Mince the salt pork very fine, fry a mo- ment and throw into the soup. Season to taste. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 66— C31EAM OF TAPIOCA. 2 quarts of light stock. I quart of milk. I minced onion. I carrot. I stalk of celery. 3 basting spoonfuls of crushed tapioca. Boil the vegetables in the stock, and the tapioca in the milk; strain the soup and add the cooked tapioca and milk; thicken lightly. 67— COLORING FOR SOUP. A fine green color can be obtained with pounded spinach leaves, parsley, or celery stalks. Care must be taken to only scald these; high temperature will partly destroy the color. Red coloring may be obtained with the juice of tomatoes, or better still, with the juice of red beets, simply crushed raw and simmered a few minutes on the side of the range. For amber and brandy see recipe No. 7. 68— CONCLUSIVE REMARKS ABOUT SOUP. When making soups of any kind, if the directions mention a certain amount of stock to be used, it must be understood that hot water should be added so as to have the quantity of stock given in the recipe when ready to finish the soup. Thickening for soup is made in two dif- ferent manners — one with the sifted flour in its natural state mixed with water; and the other with browned flour, either mixed with water or its equal quantity of butter. Soup is good warmed over, but a little care must be exercised in putting away the soup to be wanned over. Do not let it stand in the kettle in which it is pre- pared, but pour it either in a stone or a glass jar. When ready to use again re- move all the fat from the surface, and heat gently in a double dish. If you haven't a double dish handy, put the jar of soup in a pan of hot water on the side of the range. When putting the soup away in the jars do not cover it until cold, otherwise it will easily sour. Thick soups will stand more seasoning than clear soups. Soups and consommes of any kind should never be allowed to boil fast, but gently boil on the side of the range. If you desire the soup thicker than the recipes call for, you can easily have them so by adding a little more thickening — this is a matter of individual taste. It is an error to say ' 'bouillon in cups, ' ' it should be "consomme." Bouillon means a liquid in which something has been boiled. Consomme on the other hand is a rich extract of meat clarified by different methods, and rather costly. When serving consommes in cups at a party do not have it down "Bouillon." It would be an error. Soups are very healthy, easily assimi- lated, partly predigested, and its con- sumption is daily increasing. Their prep- aration is not so very difl&cult that you should get discouraged at the outset. When you become a good soup maker the results will more than repay you. An endless variety of soups can be made in different ways; for example, you can make a nice soup from the bony struc- ture of a roast turkey, with rice, or vege- tables; again with just the remains of the roast beef simply boiled in water, strain- ed and vegetables added. All these sim- ple homelike preparations I have pur- posely omitted, thinking it unnecessary to give recipes so generally known. Fish^ Lobster^ Crabs^ Clams; Oysters* Fish of any kind is particularly adapted for breakfast. It is recognized by scien- tists as food for the brain, and brain seems to be lacking with us poor mortals. But those looking for powers of endur- ance and muscular strength ( our modern college student, for example) open some other part of this book. 69— BROILED BASS. Split the fish lengthwise in two, divide the sides in portions; roll in flour; while broiling baste with melted butter, the best means of doing this is to use a flat brush. If a good sized fish partly broil it and finish cooking in the oven. Season. When done serve with a little melted butter. 70— FRIED BASS "WITH SALT PORK. Clean the fish, cut the heads off; if the fish is small leave it whole, if large cut it lengthwise, and across if necessary. Fry as many slices of salt pork as you have pieces of fish. Pepper and salt the fish, dip them in beaten eggs; fry in the salt pork fat. Serve a piece of the pork with each portion of fish, garnished with green celery tops, parsley or watercress. 71— CATFISH. Cut the fish in small pieces; fry them in a pan wdth a very little l^butter. When they are brown and almost done take them out of the pan; lay them on square slices of bread; season; finish cooking in the oven. Serve with a spoonful of hot cat- sup or tomato sauce on top. 72— BAKED STUFFED CODFISH. Clean the fish without cutting the head. Make a stufl&ng of equal parts of minced onion and bread panada (panada is bread soaked in water) and chopped salt pork; fill the inside of the fish with this dress- ing; lay the remainder of the dressing in a heap in the comer of the pan. Sprinkle a little com meal or cracker crumbs over the fish; dredge with salt and pepper; put it in to bake. After it begins to brown baste it very often with melted butter and water; serve whole. Garnish with water- cress and quarters of lemon. 73— FRIED CODFISH. Proceed as with receipt No. 71, omitting the salt pork. Serve with a tartar or green bovaroise sauce. 74— BOILED CODFISH, EGG SAUCE, Clean the codfish, remove the head (some persons consider the head a deli- cacy ) , boil the fish about a half hour; do not forget a handful of salt in the water. When the fish is cooking make a cream sauce with a pint of milk, one-half cup of flour, and as much of butter. Slice the eggs and stir them in. 75— CROAKER. Croaker is a fish resembling the white perch. It is good either broiled, fried or cooked in batter. The fish should be split lengthwise; the bone removed; dredge with salt and pepper; dip in thin batter, and fry in deep lard or else roll in cracker meal the same as croquettes. Serve with a sauce. 76— BROILED HALIBUT, SAUCE DOREE. Boil the halibut as you would the cod- fish. Make a sauce with equal parts of butter and water, thickened with a little PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. com starch, and drop in the yolks of hard boiled eggs. 77— HALIBUT, A LA MARYLAND. Cut thin slices of chicken halibut; roll them in cracker meal ; dip them in beaten eggs; roll again in cracker meal ; fry in clar- ified butter, turn over to brown; serve with Lyonnaise potatoes. 78— BROILED HALIBUT. Cut slices of halibut about an inch thick; lay them in a baking pan; brush over with butter; dredge with salt and pepper; cook them in the oven; when done mark with a red hot iron. Serve with a garnishing of lettuce shredded like cabbage, and quarters of lemon. 79— BAKED LAKE TROUT. Prepare as for baked codfish v^th the head on. Make the following dressing: 2 slices of fat pork. I can of button mushrooms. I quart of panada. Piece of butter the size of an egg. y^ cupful of minced onion. Cut the pork in small dice; put it in the frying pan with the onions and but- ter; then add the chopped mushrooms; fry a minute longer; mix with the pana- do; season with salt and pepper; stuff and sew up the fish. Do not use any butter for the basting, a little stock or water will answer the purpose. 80— FRIED LAKE TROUT. Cut the fish across, do not split them as for bass. Beat two eggs with a spoon- ful of water; dip in the fish and fry in hissing hot lard; dredge with salt and pepper and lay in the oven until ready to serve. Fish may be fried by just rolling in flour but if you wish a perfect golden color, dip in beaten eggs. 81— SALMON TROUT. Prepare exactly like lake trout. 82— BROILED MACKEREL. Split the fish lengthwise; do not wash it, but wipe with a cloth; brush over with butter; dredge with salt and pepper; broil over a slow fire. Serve with Maitre 'd Hotel Butter. Garnish with watercress and quartered lemon. Mackerel can be cooked in many other ways (boiled, stewed and cooked whole ia a buttered paper over a slow fire) but broiled is the best way. 83— MACKINAW TROUT. Split lengthwise and remove the bone; roll in flour. Broil it over a clear fire; when almost done, put the broiler in the oven over a pan; dredge with salt and pepper; baste it often until ready to serve. Looks well with a border of potatoes an persil (see index for recipe). 84— BOILED MUSCALLONGE. This fish can be either fried or broiled, but is preferable boiled. Put the fish in water with an onion, three cloves, salt and pepper. Serve with a cream sauce and potato Parisienne. 85— BAKED BLUEFISH A LA MAUVILLIER. A four pound bluefish. yi pint pale sherry or sauteme. % tt). butter. I large onion. I pint chicken broth or light stock. A bunch of aromatic herbs. Split the fish lengthwise, remove the bone; lay in a buttered pan; put in the wine, minced onions, herbs, and stock; spinkle over with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with a buttered paper. When the fish is done put it in another pan; add the remainder of the stock to the liquor left in the pan in which the fish was cooked; throw in the butter; thicken with flour and the yolks of three eggs; put in more salt and pepper if necessary, then the wine; strain this over the fish. Serve with French fried potatoes. «4 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKHRY 86— BAKED STUFFED BLUEFISH A LA CREOLE. Clean the fish; stuff it with the force- ment dressing found in the following rec- ipe: Sew it up; put in the pan a pint of tomato, one niinced onion, a piece of but- ter the size of an egg, scraps of ham, salt, pepper and mace, a cupful of cut vegeta- bles; add a pint of broth; when done, thicken with browned flour. Strain and serve the gravy separately. 87— STUFFING FOR FISH. ^ lb. minced cooked meat. X Ih. bread ponada. I teaspoonful powdered .sage. )4 ^- beef suet. Minced rind of half a lemon. Salt and pepper. Chop the suet fine and mix all together. 88— BROILED BLUE FISH. Split the fish; remove the bone by cut- ting on each side; brush over with butter; gfrease the broiler with a piece of fat pork so the fish will not stick to it; broil over a clear fire; lift it from the fire with the egg lifter; lay it on a piece of board kept for that purpose; cut in portions by a sharp blow with a heavy knife. J* 89— FRIED PAN FISH. Roll tlie fish in flour; dredge witli salt and pepper. Serve with Potato, a la Creme. Garnish with parsley. 90— FRIED PERCH. The perch are generally sold already cleaned, but if you happen to get them otherwise, they can be either skinned or scaled, but the former way is the best. Frj' tliem whole rolled in flour. 9 J— PERCH SOUCHY. Split the fish; lay the pieces in a pan with just enough water to cover them; put in an onion cut in quarters; a small bunch of parsley, a minced carrot, salt and pepper. Simmer on tlie side of the range; skim all tliat rises. Ser\-e on pieces of buttered toast soaked with the liquor from the pan. 92— BROILED PICKEREL. Split the fish lengthwise; brush over with butter, season, and broil over a slow fire. Serve with Julienne potatoes. Pickerel is good fried, boiled and baked, 93— PIKE A LA VENITIENNE. Lay the fish whole in the baking pan- score across every two inches. Mince a carrot, an onion, and a celery stalk and throw them in the pan. Cut some fat pork in strips the size of a pencil, about four inches long; add a pint of stock or water; shake salt and pepper all over; bake in a hot oven; baste every five min- utes. When done take the fish out; tip the pan so as to get the sauce in one end; skim off the fat; add a cup of stock, two tablespoonfuls of Heinz's tomato catsup; boil a few minutes; thicken and strain. Serve the sauce on the the fish, with a border of mashed potatoes sprinkled with chopped parsley. 94— FILLET OF SOLE. Fillets are boneless strips of fish ob- tained by cutting out the spine. Lay the fish on the piece of board kept for the pur- pose; cut off the head, then the flesh from one side of the spine; the spine is then exposed; lay j'our hand firmly upon it; cut it out by running the knife directly nnder. Roll the fillets as you would a jelly cake; fasten with a couple of tooth- picks. Trim one end of the rolls so that they will stand up; season; dip in beaten egg and cracker meal; place in a baking pan; half fill the pan with hissing hot lard; bake brown in the oven; when done drain carefully. Serve with potatoes. (See index for fancy potatoes). 95— BROOK TROUT. Are better broiled or fried. Remove the entrails; leave the heads; rub the broiler with a pork or ham rind; wrap the head wath buttered paper; baste with butter while broilinjf ; when nearlv done PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 25 remove the paper from the head. Serve on a lettuce leaf with lemon. Cooked in this manner the trout appear in all their beauty. 96— BOILED WHITEFISH, CAPER SAUCE. Scale and clean the whitefish; remove the head; place in a fish kettle, and put in just enough water to cover the fish; put in an onion, two or three cloves, and the juice of one lemon. When done take it out on the drainer. Serve with caper sauce, and plain boiled potatoes. (See index for caper sauce). 97— BROILED WHITEFISH. Split the fish; remove the backbone; cut in portions; broil in a fine wire broiler. Serve it hot from the broiler with an oys- ter sauce. 9&-WHITEFISH A L'ESPAGNOLE. Clean and cut the fish in portions; boil it in a sauce made of one pint of ordinary stock, one quart of tomatoes, one minced onion, piece of butter the size of a lemon, salt and cayenne. Serve the sauce in which it was boiled with potatoes a la Duchesse. 99— BAKED STUFFED WHITEFISH. If you wish to serve this fish whole, the head must not be removed, but wrapped in buttered paper before it goes in the oven. Make a stufiing of one-half pound of sausage, one cupful of chopped celery, one pound of Ijread panada, and a cupful of chopped apples; season with salt and pepper. Send it in with a border of frizzled onions. too— FISH A LA BECHAMEL. Fish of any kind can be cooked in this manner. Anything cooked in a cream sauce is a la Bechamel. When the fish is to be baked in this manner the cream sauce must be made before the fish is put in the oven to bake, otherwise if broth or milk are put in the pan to be thickened when the fish is done, the result will be unsatisfactory. JOJ— FISH EN BELLEVUE. Bellevue means pretty sight. Any fish, either cold or hot, sent to the table elabo- rately decorated may be called En Belle- vue. I02— FISH A LA MAITRE D' HOTEL. A la Maitre d' Hotel sauce is simply melted butter and chopped parsley poured warm over the fish. 103— FISH A LA CARDINAL. This sauce is probably named in allu- sion to the robe of Roman cardinals. Fish of any kind .served with red ornaments or red sauce may be named in this manner. Butter sauce can be colored with lobster, coral or shrimp. 104— FISH A LA CHAMFORD. Fish of any kind cut in portions, spread over with forcemeat or quenelle mixture. Spread the forcemeat over the portions of the fish; carefully lay them in the buttered pan; brush over with beaten egg; bake. Served with a sauce and potatoes. 105— FISH A LA MORNY. Fry small portions of fish ; arrange them in the middle of a flat earthen bak- ing dish. Take one quart of mashed po- tatoes, mix with the yolks of two eggs, a pinch of mace, salt, and white pepper. Arrange the potato in a high border all around the fish; press a design with a fork or anything else; brush all over with beaten egg; brown in the oven. 106— FISH A LA TARTAR. Either boiled or fried. Serve with tar- tar sauce, which is made with one-half cup or more of mayonaise thinned with lemon juice, minced gherkin and onions added. Jt 107— FISH A L' ITALIENNE. Is fish plain baked and served with brown tomato sauce and potato croquettes. (See index for sauce and potatoes.) 26 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Take one quart of tomatoes. 2 onions. I thin slice of fat ham. % teaspoonful clove and allspice. I pint browu gravy. Dash of sherry. Mince the onion; fry with the chopped slice of fat ham; when slightly browned add the tomatoes and spices; stew gently half an hour, or until the contents of the pan are thick; put in the brown gravy; rub through a sieve; add the sherry; sea- son to taste. }08— FISH A L' INDIENNE. Baked or boiled fish ser^^ed with a curry sauce, and a border of rice. Take the liquor from the fish pan, add stock to it if necessary to make one pint; mix a tea- spoonful of curry; set it on to boil with a piece of butter the size of an egg; season with salt and pepper; thicken with a little corn starch; boil the rice according to di- rections given in this book. 109— FISH A LA CHEVALIERE. Prepare the fish in individual portions; lay them in a buttered pan; dredge with salt and pepper. Make a mixture of equal parts of cracker meal and grated cheese; spread this all over the fish; bake brown. Serve hot and crisp without sauce. no— FISH A LA JOINVILLE. Named after the Prince de Joinville. It is baked fish, ser\'ed with the following sauce: I pint of white or cream sauce. I tablespoonful of sherry. yi cup shrimp. % cup button mushrooms. yi. cup of oysters. Boil the oysters in their own liquor, add to the thick white sauce, this will thin it to proper consistency; put in the shrimps, mushrooms and sherry; add a little more seasoning if needed. Ser\'e ver^' hot. J* J U— FISH A LA PRESIDENCE. Wipe the fish dr}'; leave the head on; partly divide into individual portions by pushing a pointed knife through the bone; rub the fish inside and outside with salt and pepper; butter the baking pan; put in the fish, with two cups of claret wine, one onion cut in two with a clove stuck in each half, a bunch of savor>' and thyme. Baste the fish very frequently while bak- ing, the gelatinous substance oozing from the fish mixed with the wine form a nice glaze. When done lay it on a hot platter. Add two cups of broth to the gravy in the pan. Mix in a sauce pan a spoonful each of browned flour and butter; add the gravy gradually until it is all in; strain and keep hot. Cut toasted bread in dia- xnond shapes, lay them all around the fish; pour the gravy on the toast; garnish with slices of lemon; sprinkle finely minced parsley over all. 112— FISH A LA RUSSE. A good way to cook fish when fresh to- matoes can be easily obtained. Take a three or four pound fish and split it length- wise; lay it in a buttered pan; salt and pepper. Take eight or ten small round tomatoes; cut a thin slice from the stem end of the tomatoes, scoop out the inside with a teaspoon; fill them with turkey dressing or any other kind of stuffing; put these all around the fish in the baking pan. While the fish and tomatoes are cooking make a puree with a can of to- matoes, one onion, salt and pepper, stewed thick and rubbed through a sieve. When the fish is done lift it from the pan ; lay it on a platter; glaze with the puree of to- mato. Arrange the baked tomatoes all around with bunches of watercress, pars- ley, or lettuce between. 113— FISH A LA BOULANGERE. Any kind of fish of a flaky texture can be cooked in this style. Take a three pound fish, boil it with a little salt and pepper in the water; when done take the fish out and let it cool sufficiently to pick it from the bones, this should be done carefully, avoid breaking the flakes. Cut the top from a stale loaf of bread, scoop the crumbs out, this leaves a hard crust about half an inch thick resembling a shoe box with the cover off; cut the edge PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 27 in large ornamental notches about an inch apart and an inch deep ; brush this all over with butter, put it in the oven; when hot and changing color take it out, and repeat three or four times, or until the crust is the color of maple sirup and very crisp. Heat a pint of cream, as much of milk, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Place the flakes of fish inside the box shaped crust; open a can of French Peas (petit pois) heat them in the can; drain off the water and strew over the flakes. Season the cream mixture and pour over. It may take more of the cream mixture, according to the size and quality of the baked crust. Ser\-e a piece of the crust with a spoonful of the filling. 114— FISH AU GRATIN. Is fish baked with cracker crumbs on top. Split the fish; lay it in a buttered pan; brush over with egg; sprinkle sifted crumbs all over; baste often. It must be brown and crisp. Serve with sauce. 115— SCALLOPED FISH. Any kind of baked or boiled fish left over. Grease a baking pan, cover the bottom with sifted crumbs (either veiy dry bread, or cracker) pick the fish; cover the crumbs with a thick la3'er; put more crumbs on top; thoroughly saturate with milk or chicken broth; drop pieces of butter all over. Season with salt and pepper. Bake brown. 116— FISH A LA LYONAISE. Cold fish ser\'ed with potato salad all around. Garnished with lettuce. (See recipe for plain potato salad. ) U7~ KIPPERED OR SMOKED SALMON. Cut the kippered salmon in thin slices; garnish with watercress or parsley. Can also be warmed in butter, salt, pepper and vinegar. US— BOILED SALT MACKEREL. Cut the fish in portions; .steep over night in cold water; cook it in hot water withoiit boiling. Serve with Maitre d' Hotel but- ter and some fancy potatoes. n9— BROILED SALT MACKEREL. Steep the fish in cold water about 12 hours; then hang it up to dry as many hours; brush over with butter; broil like any other fish. Serve with lemon, or a spoonful of hot seasoned cream. 12a-BAKED STUFFED FISH. Any kind of fish weighing more than three pounds can be stuffed and baked with a dressing as for poultry, or other kinds described in this book. If it is to be served whole, it looks better sewed up, and the head left on. Always put water, minced onion, butter or salt pork in the pan. The fish should be baked with frequent bastings. It can be served either with or without sauce. i21— CODFISH BALLS. Steep in cold water enough codfish to make a half cupful when picked. Boil four large potatoes, when done mash them, mix in the codfish, a spoonful of melted butter and one egg. Season with pepper. Make in round balls, roll them in flour and fry in hot lard. 122— CODFISH IN CREAM. Steep and boil one-half pound of cod- fisli; when cool pick it very fine; mix with one pint of cream sauce made with- out salt. 123— SALT nSH. There are many varieties of salt and smoked fish — herring. Finnan Haddie, Yarmouth bloaters, smoked whitefish, salt whitefish, and numerous others. All can be made ready in about the same way. It must be well steeped in cold water fre- quently changed, and must not be boiled a long time, otherwise it becomes tough. Salt fish properly cooked is simply sim- mered on the side of the range. Use salt sparingly in the preparation of the ac- companying sauces. 28 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. J24— BROWN OYSTER SAUCE. ^ cup oysters. y^ cup of flour. Yz cup of butter. I pint of soup stock, or gravy from the fish pan, roasted turkey or chicken. Brown the flour and butter in the oven; add the stock or gravy from the baking pan gradually until all is in, then the oysters, and let simmer a few minutes. Add a spoonful of mushroom catsup. Salt and pepper. J25— BUTTER SAUCE No. i. I pint of water. Yz cup of butter. Y, cup of flour. Melt the butter in a sauce pan ; sift in the flour; stir them together, and when it begins to bubble add the hot water a little at a time, stir it quickly until the water is all in. Do not let it boil after it is made. It may be thinned down if pre- ferred. 126— BUTTER SAUCE No. 2. I pint light stock. Water and flour thickening. Yi. cup butter. Salt. When the stock boils thicken to about the consistency of cream. Take from the fire and beat in the softened butter; do not let it boil again. 127— FRIED SHAD ROE. Take out the roes without breaking; put them in cold salted water till wanted; make it dry by wiping; roll it in flour; season, and fry in butter; turn over to brown. Sen^e on toast with 'a border~of green peas. 128— SCRAMBLED SHAD ROE. Melt a little butter in a fr3dng pan; break in two eggs to each roe, scramble in the pan; season with salt and white pepper. Serve on toast. }29— IMPERIAL FISH SAUCE. 1 raw yolk of egg. A piece of butter the size of an egg. I tablespoonful of India soy; if not ob- tainable, use mushroom or walnut catsup instead. 3 minced olives. Little cayenne and salt. 130— HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. Yz cup of butter. Y basting spoonful of vinegar. 1 yolk of ^%'g. Essence of anchovy. Cayenne. Soften the butter slightly; warm the vinegar and add to the butter only a little at a time; when thoroughly mixed add the yolk, essence of anchovy, and cay- enne. Worcestershire sauce may be used instead of anchovy. J3 1— ANCHOVY. A little fish from the Mediterranean possessing a high flavor, preserved in brine or oil. Serve cold like sardines, or spread on toast like caviar. There is also ancho\'y paste used for steak and sand- witches; and the essence used for flavor- ing fish sauce and mock turtle soup. J32— CANAPES OF ANCHOVIES. Cut slices of bread in shapes large enough to partly cover the bottom of a platter; fry like croutons; spread with anchovy paste. Sprinkle over with cap- ers; lay .slices of hard boiled eggs around. 133— HOLLANDAISE SAUCE No. 2. Make butter sauce like No. 125, add two jolks of eggs; cook them without boiling, add the juice of o^ie lemon. J3-^HOT TARTAR SAUCE. 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Yz teacup of vinegar. Piece of butter the size of an egg. r finely minced onion. 3 yolks of eggs. A spoonful of minced olives or gherkin. Boil the onion in the vinegar about five minutes, put in the butter, then the beaten yolks, take off from fire immediately. Sea- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 29 son with salt and cayenne, whip in the oil a few drops at a time. J35— SAUCE ROBERT. I minced onion. I cup of brown sauce. Piece of butter the size of an egg. I spoonful of vinegar. I tablespoonful of prepared mustard. Fry the onion in the butter until light yellow, put in the brown sauce, simmer a few minutes, then add the vinegar, then the mustard, season with cayenne. 136— OLIVE FISH SAUCE. Take a pint of fish gravy from the pan it has baked in, add to it one pint of to- matoes, one onion stuck with two cloves, and a pinch of cayenne, boil this down to about one pint, throw in a half teaspoon- ful of curry powder and a piece of butter the size of an e^g, thicken lightly with browned flour, strain through a coarse sieve, throw in a half cup of cut olives. 137— BECHAMEL SAUCE. I cup of rich chicken broth. Piece of butter the size of a lemon. I cup of thick cream. I spoonful of flour. Stir the flour and butter over the fire, when it bubbles add the stock to it a little at a time, stir smooth while it cooks, add the cream last, take it off before it boils again. 138— BORDELAISE SAUCE. 1 cup of claret "Bordeaux." X clove of garlic. Slice of lean ham. Cayenne, mace and cloves. ^ lemon. 2 cups of brown sauce. Mince the ham very fine, boil it with the brown sauce, wine, two cloves, a pinch of mace, cayenne and the garlic; when one-fourth has boiled away strain in another sauce pan, let it stand at the side of the range a few minutes, skim and add the juice of lemon, boil gently and skim once more. 139— WHITE CELERY SAUCE. Cut and boil five stalks of celery twenty- five minutes, green coarse stalks will not answer the purpose, it must be white and tender. When done strain and mix with a pint of cream sauce. (See recipe No. 140.) 140— PLAIN WHITE OR CREAM SAUCE. I pint of milk. I heaping tablespoonful of flour. Piece of butter the size of a lemon. Salt. Stir all the flour and butter in a pan, when it bubbles add the boiling milk a little at a time. Salt to taste. 141— SHRIMP SAUCE. I pint light stock or chicken broth. % cup of butter. yi teacup of flour. I yolk of egg. I teaspoonful of lemon juice. yi can of shrimps. Salt and cayenne. Put all the flour and half the butter in a sauce pan, stir them over the fire, when bubbling add the hot slock gradually, stir smooth while cooking, take off the range, add the 3^olk and rest of the but- ter, whip until the butter disappears, add the shrimps and lemon juice, season. 142— PARSLEY SAUCE. Make butter sauce No. 125, with a bast- ing spoonful of chopped parsley. 143— LOBSTER SAUCE. Butter sauce No. 125. Pound the coral and the reddest part of the lobster, throw them in the hot sauce, stir in the yolk of one &gg, rub through a coarse strainer, season and add one-third cupful of lobster cut evenly if pos.sible, and juice of half a small lemon. 144— HOT MAITRE D' HOTEL SAUCE. Butter sauce No. 125 thinned with half 30 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY, a cup of water, the juice of a lemon, and a sprinkle of parsley dust. 145— WHITE OYSTER SAUCE. Yz cup of oysters. I quart of light stock, or water. Yj, cup of butter. Yz cup of flour. Pour the boiling stock over the oysters, stir the butter and flour over the fire, when it bubbles drain the oysters and add the stock gradually. It will be thick •when done, but the oysters will thin it down. Season to taste. Oysters .should never be cooked hard. 146— EGG SAUCE. Make butter sauce No. 125, whip in the yolks of two eggs, slice four hard boiled yolks, and mix. H7— POTATOES. In French called pomme de terre (earth apple) but abbreviated to pommes on all hotel bills of fare. 148— POTATOES DUCHESSE. Pommes Duchesse. Boil four or five large potatoes, when done mash them, mix with the yolk of one egg, mace, salt and white pepper. \Vhen mashed perfectly smooth roll it out on a floured board, cut out in leaf shape, mark the tops with a fork, butter a pan, lay them in, brush over with beaten egg, bake in a hot oven. Part may be rolled leaf- shaped, and the rest made like apples or pears with a clove -iv.ck in one end, and a piece of truflle to iir.itate the stem, used for garnisiiirsg. 149— POTATOES BOULETTE. A potato spoon or cutter must be used, scoop out a pint of potatoes the size of hazelnuts, stew them in half lard and butter until they are done, drain and set them in a pan in the oven till they are light brown, sprinkle with salt. 15a— POTATOES DAUPHINE. Prepare potatoes as for recipe No. 148, make flat oval croquettes size of a silver dollar, dip in &^^ and cracker meal and fry a nice color. 151— FRIZZED POTATOES. Slice raw potatoes in strings as long as possible and the thickness of a pencil, fry in hot lard, drain and sprinkle with salt. 152— POTATO GENEVOISE. I cupful of mashed potatoes. Piece of butter the size of an egg. Yz cup of milk. Egg. I tablespoonful of flour. Mash the warm potatoes through a sieve, mix in the butter, the flour and milk with the beaten Q^^, pour in a buttered pan, bake light brown and serve in square portions with fish. 153— POTATOES SABATIER. Use a scalloped vegetable knife, cut thin slices of raw potatoes, then cross- wise, fry in hot lard; they are done when they float, put them to drain in a colander, sprinkle with salt. 154— POTATOES HOLLANDAISE. Cut raw potatoes in quarters, score the.se to make them appear ribbed, boil in salted water, drain them without break- ing, sprinkle with melted butter, salt, lemon juice and parsley dust. Ser\'ewith fish. 155— LYONAISE POTATOES. Mince a large onion, fry in a little but- ter to a light brown. Slice a quart dipper full of cold potatoes, fry these in the pan with the onion. Salt and pepper. To be good, must be evenly colored by slow frjnng. <^ i56~POTATOES A LA MAITRE D' HOTEL. 1 quart of cooked potatoes. 2 cups of hot water. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 31 I basting spoonful of vinegar. I basting spoonful butter. I basting spoonful minced parsley. % cup of flour thickening. Cut the potatoes in small pieces about the size of lima beans, mix the other in- gredients, season with salt and white pep- per, thicken, pour over the potatoes, let come to a boil. 157— SARATOGA CHIPS. Good large mealy potatoes are required to make fine chips. A cutter can be bought at a nominal sum, but if you do not possess one, shave the potatoes as thin as paper, steep them in ice water about two hours, dry them in a cloth, fry in hot lard a few at a time, when they rise they are done, and if the lard was hot enough they will be sufficiently colored; sprinkle with salt while they are still hot. 158— POTATOES SAUTES. Cold boiled potatoes cut in squares, fry in butter, salt and pepper. 159— MJNCED POTATOES. Chop cold boiled potatoes almost as fine as hash, season them with salt and white pepper; put a little butter in a small frying pan (egg pan ) , put in enough chopped potatoes to make a la5^er about an inch thick; fry slow without stirring till the bottom is brown and crisp, turn over on a round plate, the brown side on top. 160— POTATOES A LA JULIENNE. Cut raw potatoes in fine shredlike straws, fry in hot lard quickly, dredge with salt and parsley dust. 161— POMME A L' ANGLAISE. Cut one quart cold boiled potatoes as for recipe No. 156. Make a cream sauce, dilute it to about the thickness of cream. Cut one-half cup of bacon in small dice, fry it crisp without burning, add this to the cream sauce; pour over the potatoes. 162— MANCHESTER POTATOES. Take nice large clean potatoes, wash and brush them vigorously, but do not break the jacket, bake, and when almost done cut open one end; don't cut clear across, but enough to open and scoop out most of the inside. Make a filling with half the potato scooped from the inside, as much of grated cheese, one yolk of e^g for every cupful of filling; season with salt and pepper. Fill the potatoes, close the end, turn the potatoes so they will stay closed, bake a few minutes longrer. J63— LOBSTERS. Before this book is completed it may be that the legislature will have passed a law prohibiting the fishing of lobsters. The enormous consumption of lobsters, and the injudicious catch of young lobsters menace their complete destruction. But if such a law becomes a reality, we hope that its necessarj' existence will be of short duration. 161— HOW TO BOIL LOBSTERS. Drop the live lobster in a kettle of boil- ing water with a half pound of salt to every gallon of water. If the lobster is large it will take forty minutes to boil, if small, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Take it out of the kettle, when cooled sufiiciently keep it on ice. 165— BROILED LIVE LOBSTER. I If you have any objection to broil the lobster immediately after splitting it, you may kill it by thrusting a sharp pointed knife in the back of the head where it joins the body, and lay it aside a short time until the mechanical contractions of the members have ceased. Split the lobster from head to tail, put it on the broiler the flat side down; it will cook in ten or fifteen minutes. Serve with lemon. 166 -LOBSTER CUTLET. yi pint of lobster meat. 6 or 8 lobster claws. Cracker crumbs. 32 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. I basting spoonful of vinegar. I teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed. Piece of butter the size of an egg. Mash the lobster with the vinegar, but- ter, salt and pepper until it is almost a paste, divide in as many portions as you have claws ( 6 or 8) , make each portion in the shape of a half pear, by moulding be- tween the floured hands; stick a claw in each one, it will then look like a French lamb chop, roll in sifted cracker crumbs, dip in beaten egg, and roll in cracker crumbs again, fry in hissing hot lard. Serve with tomato sauce. 167— LOBSTER CROQUETTES. I can of lobster. I teaspoonful of pepper and salt mixed. I tablespoonful of vinegar. I tablespoonful of thick cream sauce. Chop the lobster meat, add the other ingredients and enough sifted cracker crumbs to enable to shape it in cones the size of an egg; bread like lobster cote- lettes. Serve with hot tartar sauce. 168— LOBSTER IN SHELL. Ice cold boiled lobster split as for broiled lobster, but crack the claws. Serve on a large platter, garnished with parsley or watercress and lemon. 169— CANNED LOBSTER A LA VINAEGRETTE. Heap the contents of a can of lobster on a platter, arrange quarters of hard boiled eggs all around. Mix two basting spoon- fuls of vinegar and one of olive oil, season ■with salt and pepper and pour over the lobster. , 170— LOBSTER EN CANAPE. Cut the lobster in good sized pieces, melt a piece of butter in a frying pan, put in the lobster, season with salt and pep- per, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, when ■warm serve on buttered toast in plain or fancy shapes. 171— LOBSTER PATTIES. Made like oyster patties with the ad- dition of lemon juice. See different di- rections for oyster patties, 172— SCALLOPED LOBSTER. Butter a baking pan and cover the bot- tom with fine bread crumbs, put on this a layer of chopped lobster, dredge with salt and pepper. Alternate the layer of crumbs and lobster until the dish is full, with crumbs on top; strew pieces of butter all over the top, saturate with chicken broth or milk; bake light brown. 173— DEVILED LOBSTER. Take out all the meat from a boiled lobster, reserving the coral, season with mustard, cayenne, salt and Worcester sauce. Put the sauce pan on a hot fire until it begins to boil, there should be just enough water to keep from burning; cover the sauce pan, pound the coral, moistening with vinegar until it is thin enough to pour easily, then stir it into the sauce pan with a spoonful of butter, when it boils once more take it off from the hot fire. 174— POTATOES AU PERSILS. Small new potatoes boiled in salted wa- ter, drained, sauteed (fried) in butter with chopped parsley or fennel. 175— POTATOES A LA CREAM. Cut raw potatoes in forms with a column cutter, boil in salted water, heaped in a dish with a cream sauce poured over. 176— SCALLOPED LOBSTER EN COQXIILLE. Make the lobster croquette mixture, fill the pieces of shell with crumbs on top, bake brown. Serve with quarters of very sour oranges. J77— SHRIMPS. Drop the live shrimps in boiling water lightly salted. Just after putting the shrimps in the boiling water throw in a cupful of sherry, it will greatly improve PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 33 their flavor, boil eight minutes, cool and set on ice. Live shrimps are rather difficult to ob- tain, but the canned shrimps are gene- rally of excellent quality, readily obtain- able, and answer all purposes very satisfactorily. 178— SAUTE OF SHRIMPS ON TOAST. I can of shrimps. Piece of butter the size of an egg. Salt and pepper. Dash of sherry. Melt the butter in the frying pan, put in the shrimps with the seasoning ingre- dients when warmed through. Serve on slices of buttered toast. 179— SHRIMP SALAD. Salads will be found all in another part of this book. See index. 180— PYRAMID OF SHRIMP ROLLS. Butter thin slices of fresh bread (a square loaf preferred), trim off the crust, spread with mayonnaise or mustard dress- ing. Cut some shrimps in coarse pieces, sprinkle on the buttered bread, roll up, and pile them high on a fancy dish; gar- nish with parsley or lettuce. I8J— CRABS. There are many varieties of crabs, many are edible, but only two kinds are gene- rally known, the deep sea crab and the soft shell crab. The former is served and used like lobsters. Every part of the soft shell crab is eaten but the sand pouch. 182— HOW TO BOIL CRABS. Drop in boiling water with plenty of salt. The large crab will take about thirty minutes, the soft shell crab will cook in twelve minutes. 183— BOILED SOFT SHELL CRABS. Boil the crabs as directed in No. 182, remove the small claws and sand pouch, and serve hot with tomato sauce, catchup, hot tartar, or any other spicy sauce. 184— FRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS. Dip the crabs in beaten eggs, then in cracker dust, fry in hot lard. They are cooked when they are light brown and the claws are crisp enough to break. Serve with cold tartar sauce. Garnish with watercress. 185— CRABS A LA VINAIGRETTE. Make a dressing of one-half cup of vinegar, one-fourth cup of oil, one tea- spoonful of prepared mustard, salt and white pepper. Pick the meat from the shells and claws, cut it in small pieces. Pour the dressing over the meat, mix all together. Serve in the shell, previously cleaned and dried. Garnish with lettuce. 186— DEVILED CRABS. Pick the meat from the shells, crack the claws to take out the meat. Add for every cupful of crab meat a half cupful of fine bread crumbs, a piece of butter the size of an ^^g, a tablespoonful of pre- pared mustard, salt and pepper, fill the crab shell with the mixture, dust sifted cracker crumbs on top, bake in a hot oven; baste once with melted butter five minutes after it is in the oven. 187— CRABS IN CASES. I can crabs. % cup butter sauce. 4 hard boiled yolks of eggs. Salt and cayenne. Paper cases. Mash the yolks and stir them in the sauce with the crabs, butter the paper cases, fill them with the mixture; bake five minutes, serve on a bed of greens. 188— CRABS ON TOAST. Canned deviled crabs warmed in a but- tered pan with salt, pepper and lemon juice added; spread on buttered toast. 34 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. J89— OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL. Huitres sur Coquille. There are many varieties suitable to serve on the half shell, such as Shrews- bury's, Moris river, Scotch coves, Saddle rocks, and others, but Blue Points are the best variety to serve. Wash and scrub clean before opening. They will be at their best if opened just before serving. Half a dozen Blue Points are a hors d' Oeuvre (appetizer) unsurpassed b}' any other. J9a-OYSTER COCKTAIL No. \. Six or eight small oysters served in a wine or cocktail glass with 05'ster cock- tail catsup poured on top. 191— OYSTER COCKTAIL No. 2. Put the oysters in glasses as for recipe No. 190; peel a lemon as you would an orange, mince it fine, sprinkle a little cayenne on the oysters, then a teaspoon- ful of the minced lemon, with chopped parsley on top. Serve with crackers and butter. Add a small fork to the silver service on the table. 192— OYSTER BOX STEW. There seems to be but little sense to the term, and the author has so far been unable to ascertain its justifiable origin. One dozen large oysters just opened for each order, a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg, and a basting spoonful of light cream. Take a sauce pan and put the oysters to boil in their own liquor, add the melted butter and cream, season with salt. Put a piece of buttered tcast in a bowl and pour the oysters over it. 193— OYSTER MILK STEW. Boil the milk and cook the oysters in a separate dish, as oysters will generally curdle the milk. Oysters should not be boiled more than two minutes. Set them to boil in their own liquor, take off all the scum that rises, for each order add but- ter the'size of_a walnut, then the hot milk, season to taste, serve immediately. J94— PLAIN OYSTER STEW. Cooked like No. 193, but use a little wa- ter instead of milk. If the oysters swim in their liquor, you can dispense with the water. 195— COAST OYSTER STEW. Make the milk stew No. 193, put a slice of buttered toast in the bowl, pour the stew over through a strainer, lay the oys- ters on the floating toast. J96— STEAMED OYSTERS. The oysters must be perfectly clean. Put them in the steamer, deep shell down, steam from three to five minutes, take off the top shell, do not spill any of the liquor if possible, no seasoning. Serve with quartered lemons. J97— BROILED OYSTERS. A very nice way of cooking oysters if properly done, the trouble lies in the wrong kind of breading. Sifted cracker meal will not answer the purpose in this case. If you desire success and pefec- tion, dry a loaf of bread on the shelf of the range, break it, roll and sift it, drain the largest oysters obtainable, dip them one at a time in beaten Ggg, and roll gently in the crumbs so as to evenly coat them, let them lie in the crumbs a half hour. Brush a fine oyster broiler, lay in the oysters, shut the broiler, and broil over a clear fire, in about a minute turn the broiler; brush with butter once or twice without opening the broiler. Don't cook more than a light brown. Serve on a folded napkin. 198— BROILED STUFFED OYSTERS. 20 oysters, the largest obtainable. 5 yolks of eggs. y^ cup fine minced bacon. Boil four eggs; crush the yolks with the minced bacon; season with pepper; add one raw yolk so the stuffing will ball. The inside of the oyster must be split without making a large opening, take a sharp penknife, insert it at the edge and move it up and down; stuff; roll in bread PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 35 crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, then in bread crumbs again; broil over a clear fire. See No. 197. 199— OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE. Little Pigs in Blanket. Let drain some large oysters; sprinkle with black pepper. Cut slices of fat ba- con as thin as possible; roll two oysters in each slice; run a skewer through five of these rolls; press them tightly together; bake in the top of the oven; rest the end of the skewer on the edge of the pan so the oysters will not touch the dripping. Serve on the skewers with buttered toast Tinder; slip a lamb chop cuff on one end of the skewer. 200— OYSTERS, A LA RIARL- BOROUGH. A delicate shell filled with oyster pat- ties mixture. Make balls of cold butter the size of an egg; they may be shaped in cones, round, etc., according to your fancy. Set them in a cold place or leave them in a bowl of ice-water to get hard, then roll them in fine cracker crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, roll again in plenty of cracker crumbs; drop them in hissing hot lard just like you would croquettes, but handle with care. Take them out and cut out a round piece from the top; turn them upside down so the butter will all run out; keep them hot and cri.sp un- til they are ready to serve ; fill with oyster patty preparation. 20J— FRIED OYSTERS. Cracker meal can be used to iry oys- ters, if not for broiled oysters. Drain the oysters, then dry them with a napkin, dip in beaten eggs, then in cracker meal, drop them singly in hot lard. They will brown in three minutes. Heap on a folded napkin; garnish with parsley. 202— FRIED OYSTERS DOUBLE BREADED. Will look a good deal larger than they really are. Drain in a colander, roll in fine cracker meal, dip in beaten eggs. roll again in cracker meal. Will take a little longer to fry than No. 201. Serve ®n a folded napkin. 203— FRIED OYSTERS, CHEAPER WAY. Put the oysters in a colander to drain, mix equal parts of cracker meal and flour, roll in the oysters, dip them in milk then in the cracker and flour mixture. Fry a few at a time in hissing hot lard. Drain carefully before serving. 204— OYSTER FRITTERS. The oysters must be scalded in their own liquor before they are dropped in the batter, otherwise they will shrink and cause the batter to puff and break on one side, drain the oysters and sprinkle with salt and peppgr, drop them in the batter, fry three together in some of the batter; push them in with the end of the finger; done when colored enough. Serve on folded napkin; garnish with parsley. 205— ROASTED OYSTERS, RO- CHELLE STYLE. Roast the oysters in the shells; take them out when done and place them on fancy shapes of toast arranged on a plat- ter. Mix some of the oyster liquor with cream, season lightly, and pour on the toast. 206— OYSTERS IN CASES. Hors d' Oeuvre. Butter paper cases and put them in the oven one minute just before using. Fill the cases with oyster patty mixture, but cut the oysters in small pieces. When making the filling, just after scalding, flavor with a little essence of Anchovy. 207— CROUSTADE OF OYSTER. Cut off the top crust of a loaf of bread which was baked in a square tin, scoop out all the inside, cut the edge in orna- mental notches, spread soft butter inside, set in the oven, when toasted brown take 36 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. it out. Make oyster stew No. 192, and fill the croustade. 208— OYSTERS A LA RUSSE. A kind of oyster paste rolled in bacon and fried in batter. I pint of oysters. % cup of milk. I basting spoonful of flour. 1 cup of minced chicken. 2 yolks of eggs. Butter size of an egg. Pepper, salt and lemon. Boil the oysters in their own liquor, take them out and mince them. Cut the chicken very small, mix the flour and butter, set over the fire; when it bubbles stir in the milk and oyster liquor, add the minced chicken and seasoning, stir till it boils again, then add the yolks of eggs, cook a minute longer, put in the oysters and chicken, spread on a buttered platter. When cold cut in strips the length and width of a finger, roll in thin slices of bacon previously parboiled and cooled, dip in batter and fry like fritters. Serve very hot. 209— FINEST FRYING BATTER. 6 oz. flour. 6 whites of eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry wine. Salt and pepper. Whip the whites in a bowl, pour in the oil and wine, then the flour a little at a time. You may improve it by adding a little baking powder. All the ingredi- ents and utensils should be ice cold to in- sure success. 2J0— OYSTERS A L' ITALBENNE. Yz pound spaghetti or macaroni. I coffee cupful of small oysters. Piece of butter the size of a lemon. I cupful of milk. I egg. A little flour. Pepper and salt. Proceed as for making macaroni and cheese, break the macaroni in boiling water, allowing it to boil twenty minutes, strain in colander. Put a layer of macaroni in a well buttered pan, then a layer of oys- ters, alternating until the dish is full, sprinkle sifted cracker crumbs on top, strew small pieces of butter over all, salt and pepper. Mix a basting spoonful of flour with the milk and egg, pour it over, and bake light brown. 2 U— OYSTER OMELET. 2 eggs for every order, four oysters to each egg; salt and pepper. Scald the oysters in their own liquor; beat the eggs in a bowl. (Eggs should not be beaten light for an omelet); fry in a small pan with just enough lard to cover the bot- tom. When set, put the oysters on top, fold over and brown. Do not put in the eggs until the lard gets quite hot. 2 J2— OYSTER PATTIES. I pint oysters. I cupful cream. Piece of butter the size of an ?:%,%. Yz cup of flour. Seasoning. Scald the oysters in their own liquor, but do not let them boil; boil the milk separately ; mix the butter and flour in a sauce pan large enough to hold all the rest; set it on the range, and when it bub- bles stir in the cream and oyster liquor. Stir constantly and when it boils up again put in the seasoning and oysters. The crust should be made of pufl' paste (see index) rolled thin; cut in round or oval shapes with a patty cutter; when ready to serve remove the center or button, fill with enough of the mixture so that it will run over; replace the crust; serve with or with- out garnishing. 213— OYSTERS EN CORBEILLE. Prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe, but stir in enough yolks of eggs to make it yellow. The sauce must not boil after the yolks are added. The cases are made with a copper mold dip- ped in butter and fried in lard. (See rec- ipe in part three of this book) . 2M -OYSTER PIE. Take a three quart earthern dish lined PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 37 with crust made as directed in recipe for American chicken pie. Bake this in the oven ; when done fill it with the creamed oyster preparation. Roll out a thin sheet of crust for the top; wet the edges with cold water; bake on the upper grate of the oven until the top crust is done. 2 J5— INDIVIDUAL OYSTER PIE. Partly fill an individual vegetable dish with oyster patty preparation ; cover with a thin sheet of puflF paste ; brush over with beaten egg; bake a nice brown. 216— OYSTER POT PIE. Make the ordinary baking powder bis- cuit dough, roll it about an inch thick and cut in portions the size of a half dol- lar, cook these in a steamer. While they are cooking prepare the oysters in the following manner: I quart oysters. I pint milk. % lb. of butter. Salt, white pepper and minced parsley. Boil the oysters and milk separately. Thicken the milk with flour to about the consistency of soft butter; add the oys- ters and seasoning, drop in the dump- lings. Serve with two dumplings on each plate. 217— SCALLOPED OYSTERS, INDI- VIDUAL DISH. Butter vegetable dishes the same as for shirred eggs, put a few crumbs in the bottom of the dish, put in 12 to 15 oys- ters, a thin layer of bread crumbs over them and a small piece of butter, bake in a hot oven. 218— SCALLOPED OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL. Select large oysters, loosen them en- tirely from the shell, dredge fine crumbs in the shells, replace the 05'sters, cover with bread crumbs. When they are done pour over them a teaspoonful of melted butter. Bake quicklj' in a hot oven. 219— OYSTERS FRIED IN BUTTER. Put a teaspoonful ot melted butter for every half dozen oysters, drop each oys- ter separately in a plate with cracker meal and give them a careful coating, lay the oysters in the pan close together, cook over a good hot fire. When they are brown on one side take a plate and lay on the oysters, upside down; turn over and slide them back in the pan, care must be taken that the oysters* do not break apart. Lay the plate upside down again over the oysters, turn the pan over, and serve on that plate with quartered lemon in a side dish. There are pans and platters of the same size made purposely to fry oysters in this way. 220— SCALLOPED OYSTERS IN SILVER SHELLS. They are very suitable when oysters in the half-shell can not be obtained, and very presentable on a banquet table. Silver shell cost all the way from forty to sixty dollars per dozen, but there are very good imitations in aluminum which can be obtained for two or three dollars per dozen. Butter the shells or moulds, dredge with fine cracker crumbs. Scald the oysters, drain them and place a half dozen in each shell, cover with a thin layer of crumbs, saturate with the oyster liquor mixed with a little melted butter, bake on the top shelf of the oven; when done pour a little melted butter over the contents of each shell, and bake a min- ute longer. Serve the shell on a folded napkin, or on a bed of green celery tops, parsley, or water cress. J* 221— SCALLOPED, OYSTERS LARGE PAN. When cooking scalloped oysters in a large pan care must be taken that the bread crumbs are all moistened and sea- soned with the oysters. Butter the pan that you will use, which should be of the size according to the quantity you desire. Scald the oysters and drain them, put them in a pan on a layer of bread crumbs so that they will touch each other; alter- nate with ovsters and crumbs until the 38 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKKRV. dish is full. To be good there should be at least two layers of oysters and three of bread crumbs. Mix the oyster liquor with twice its volume of milk, pour that in the pau. Strew pieces of butter the size of walnut all over the pan, dredge with salt and pepper. Bake a nice brown. 222— BROWN OYSTER BISQUE. I pint oysters. 5 pints fish stock. 1 pint of cream. Yz cup of flour. ]/z cup of butter. yi cup white wine. Cook the oysters in the fish stock, skim all that rises ; brown the flour in the oven ; mix with the butter; set the pan on the range; when it bubbles add the cream and some of the fish stock from the kettle. Drain the oysters; put the stock back into the kettle, and throw in the contents of the soup pan; when boil- ing hot thicken with the yolks of eggs; add the wine and oj'sters. Season to taste, and serve hot. 2i3— TRUFFLED OYSTERS. 2 dozen of the largest oysters. y^ can of truffles. Yi cupful of cooked chicken white meat. A basting spoonful of raw salt pork, minced very fine. A minced pickled red pepper. 2 eggs. Pound the chicken meat to a paste; addthe salt pork, and the minced pickled red pepper; Cut the truffles in small dice the size of peas. Lay the oysters on a napkin. Insert a pen knife at the edge as for stuffed oysters. Force in as much of this mixture as possible. Roll the oy- sters in flour, dip in beaten eggs then in fine cracker meal. Drop a few at a time in hissing hot lard; fry three or four min- utes; when a light brown drain and lay them on sheets of paper. Serve on fancy shapes of toast. 224— FANCY SCALLOPED OYSTERS. Prepare scalloped 0}'sters on a flat plat- ter, which is suitable to go on the table; heap the oysters in the dish. Make a border of dry mashed potatoes all around; brush over with egg ; bake brown. A force bag and tube are most convenient to make this border. See part three for description of sack and tubes. 225— OYSTERS EN PAPILLOTTE. Make a paste of one cupful of mashed potatoes, one tablespoonful of flour. Roll and cut in round shapes, scald and drain the oysters, put a few in the mid- dle of each piece of paste, place another over the oyster, press the edges together, mark with a fork, brush over with beaten egg, bake a nice golden brown. 226— OYSTERS A LA TARTARE. Scald and drain the oysters, cool on ice, serve with cold tartar sauce poured over. (See index for sauce. ) 227— OYSTERS BROILED IN THE SHELL. A favorite way with the darkies of the Florida keys. Cooked in this manner they make uncommonly good eating. Lay the clean shells on the gridiron, when they open put in each oyster a bit of butter and a little white pepper. Serve immediately. 228— OYSTERS A LA HTS1\L\RCK. Prince Bismarck was ver}' fond of oys- ters prepared in this way, and the enor- mous quantity the prince would eat, clearl)' shows that the famous chancellor must have had an iron stnmaoh as well as iron nerves. I quart of oysters. I can of button mushrooms, or a coffee cupful of fresh mushrooms. I cup of cream. Yi cup of butter. Yz cup of flour. 4 yolks of eggs. Salt, cayenne and cracker meal. Scald the oysters, drain once, keep the liquor hot, mix the flour and butter in a saucepan on the range, when it bubbles add the oyster liquor gradually, stir till it boils again, then add the cream, 03'S- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 39 ters, drained mushrooms, season; put the mixture in a two quart earthen baking dish, sprinkle cracker meal on top, brown iu the oven, send the dish to the table as it comes out of the oven. 229— OYSTERS EN ASPIC. Scald the oysters in seasoned vinegar same way as for oyster salad (see index for salad recipe). Prepare clear aspic jelly, season it strong with pepper sauce and lemon juice. Color a portion of the jelly with pounded spinach, or scalded celery leaves drained and pounded through a sieve. Cool the colored jelly in a fiat dish so it will be about a quarter of an inch thick. Lay the oysters in even rows on a flat platter, pour the clear aspic over them so they will be just covered. When cold and firmly set, cut the green aspic jelly in oval shapes about three inches long and about one and a half in the middle; slip each shape b}^ means of a knife, onto a small sized platter. Cut the jellied oysters in small squares, each having an oyster in the center. The jelly must be cut as close as possible to the oyster. Lay four of these on each foun- dation of green jelly. Garnish with tiny leaves of white lettuce and hard boiled eggs. 230— DEVILED OYSTERS. Scald the oysters in their own liquor; strain; make a thick butter sauce, using the oyster liquor instead of water. For every cup of drained oysters use a cup of the sauce, 2 hard boiled yolks of eggs, salt and cayenne. Mash the yolks in the sauce, add the oysters and seasoning. Butter paper cases, warm them in the oven, fill and bake five minutes. Serve immediately. 231— OYSTER CROQUETTES. ^ lb. of chicken meat. X ^- red corned tongue. 9 oz. of beef suet. 6 oz. of scalded oysters. 2 yolks of eggs. Salt and pepper. Chop all together, put in tlie yolks, make up in cones or shapes; give a dou- ble breading by rolling in cracker meal; dip in beaten egg, then again in cracker meal. Fry in hissing hot lard. When light brown take out and drain ; serve on a leaf of lettuce. 232— FRICASSEED OYSTERS. 1 quart of oysters. X R>. butter. }4 cup flour. 2 yolks of eggs. Boil the oysters two minutes; strain the liquor; stir the flour and butter in a sauce- pan over the hot range; when it bubbles add the liquor; season; whip in the yolks; put the 0)sters in the sauce. 233— CREAMED OYSTERS ON TOAST. Make the fricasseed oyster preparation. Serve on buttered toast. ^ 234— OYSTERS A LA HUMBERT. I quart of oysters. I ^2 pint of fine cracker crumbs. }4 pint white wine. X ft), butter. }4 ft>. grated parmesan cheese, or any other kind of cheese if parmesan cannot be easily obtained. Spread half of the cracker crumbs on the bottom of the pan, then all the raw oysters, and grated cheese, then the rest of the crumbs; dredge with salt and pep- per; melt the butter and mix with the wine, distribute this as evenly as possible all over the top; bake a nice brown. 235— OYSTER VOL AU VENT. A delicious kind of pattie made like a small apple turnover. Make the oyster croquette preparation ; roll out a thin sheet of puff paste, cut out round pieces with a large cookie cutter, put a spoonful of the oyster mixture in the middle, fold over, turn the edges and pinch them together, brush over with beaten egg; bake a nice color in a hot oven. 40 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 236-CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL. There are several varieties of clams, small clams only can be used on the half shell; the best is the Little Neck. Wash the shells thoroughly before opening; they should be loosened from the shell and retain all the liquor the shell will hold ; serve w ith lemon. 237 — CONEY ISLAND CLAM CHOWDER. 1 quart of water. I pint raw potatoes. I cupful chopped tomatoes. 1 onion. Butter size of a lemon, Slice of bacon. Yz teaspoonful of thyme. 3 cloves, a bay leaf, salt, pepper, pars- ley. Have all the ingredients ready. Slice the onion and potatoes; scald the clams, cut in pieces, save the liquor. An hour and a half before dinner put the butter and ham in a saucepan, then the onions, the clove and bay leaf tied inside a little bunch of parsley ; sprinkle the powdered thyme over this, put on the lid and cook slowly about 20 minutes. Before the contents begin to brown put in the water, clam liquor and potatoes, salt and pepper. Boil until the potatoes are done, then take out the ham aud bunch of parsley; throw in the cut clam, boil once more. 23S— FRIED SOFT SHELL CLAMS. Drain off the liquor and wash the clams in cold water. When ready to use dry them on a towel, dip in beaten ^^'g and milk, a spoonful of milk for every egg; then in cracker meal; fry in hot lard, drain in a colander, sers'e with quartered lemon; garnish with parsley. 239— CLAM EN CANAPE. 2 doz. clams 3 yolks of eggs. I cupful of milk. A piece of butter size of an egg. A basting spoonful of flour. Yz lemon. Salt and Cayenne. Scald the clams in their own liquor, drain them and cut in pieces; boil the milk, strain the clam liquor in it, add the flour, stirred in a little cold water, then the butter seasoning and yolks; put in the cut clams, and add the lemon juice last. Serve on buttered, toast cut in shapes. 240— SCALLOPED CLAMS ON SHELLS. If clams in the shell cannot be obtained silver or aluminum shells or paper cases may be used. I pint of clams. I cup of cream. Piece of butter the size of an egg. Flour thickening. Cracker meal. Salt and cayenne. Scald the clams in their own liquor, drain the liquor off; boil the milk, add the butter, then the hot liquor from the scalded clams, season, and thicken to the consistency of thick cream, add the clams; put two or three clams with some of the sauce on every shell, dredge cracker meal on top, when done put a little but- ter over the cracket meal with the back of a spoon. 241— CLAM COCKTAIL. Made precisely as directed for oyster cocktail. Little neck clams only can be used for this purpose. 242— CLAM PATTIES. Made the same way as oyster patties. Another way is to line a muffin tin with puff paste, cut rounds large enough to cover these, brush over with egg, bake in the oven; when done take them out, fill with the prepared clams, put on the lid and serve like patties. 243— SCALLOPS, OR COCKLES. May be cooked in all the same ways as oysters, but they are preferable fried in batter. Game and Poultry. 244— GAME. It is very difficult to make a selection of variety, the supply being a matter of chance, but if care is exercised in keep- ing and cooking game excellence and satisfaction will always be obtained. When game becomes a little too old, permagnate of potash will purify it if moderately employed. The best way to keep game, however, is to draw it as soon as possible, rinse it with a solution of bi- carbonate of soda, then a profusion of cold water; wipe it dry inside and out, rub it lightly with fine salt, hang in a cool place and wrap a piece of paper around each one. This is a good way of keeping game if the weather is cool, otherwise it must be kept in a cold storage. If the game is young, roasting or broil- ing is certainly the best. By all means do not roast or try to broil old game. They will be good, even succulent if made into a stew, pie, civet, quenelles, or soup. Boiled, braised and fricasseed old part- ridges are uncommonly good eating, or cooked with cabbage and salt pork; again in German style with sauerkraut and sausage. Cook them tender in whatever way you may cook them. Large game, such as rabbit, pheasant, blackcock, and other large birds must be thoroughly cooked, but not excessively done. Many epicures will appreciate small birds if only underdone, but the author would not feel justified in advising this mode of eating game. Small game are generally .served on toast, the French way is with green peas, or the toast saturated either with port or Amontillado. With phea.sant, grouse, and partridge, bread sauce seenis to be the most fashionable. Getmine spiced currant jelly is considered essential to a perfect dish of roast hare. Small birds which are suitable to broil can also be roasted, but they must be wrapped in very thin slices of salt pork. Too many people do not like the taste of bacon or smoked meat, so salt fat pork is preferable. The fishy taste which is so common to wild fowl may be destroyed by boiling in water seasoned with salt and pepper, one onion, and a tablespoon- ful of sherry or vinegar. Spices, herbs, garlics, onions, and strong bodied wine must be avoided in their preparation, as the natural flavor of game cannot be im- proved by their use. 245— VENISON. Venison seems to be the favorite wild meat. Every part can be utilized to good advantage; soups from the necks and coarse pieces; stews and pies from the rough cuts; chops are choice broiling; the shoulders are good roasted, but the buttock is the best part to roast. 246— POT AGE OF VENISON. Take seven or eight pounds of coarse pieces of venison — neck, brisket, and trimmings; saw and crack the bones; pro- ceed as for making stock; when done drain and skim off all the fat; thicken with browned flour and butter as you would for turtle soup. Make quenelles from the pounded breast of chicken or partridge. Strain the soup, add one-half cup of Amontillado, season with salt and cayenne; strain and serve with four or five quenelles previouslj- poached in hot water. 247— VENISON CONSOMME. Five pounds of the coarse meat of veni- son, no bones must enter into this soup, only the coarse meat cut and trimmed from the neck, brisket, shank, etc.; put 42 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. the meat in the soup kettle with one small onion, one piece of carrot, one stalk of celery, and a bunch of aromatic herbs; cover with four quarts of ordinary stock; boil gently about three hours; skim all that rises; strain through a folded napkin; set on the table to cool about three- quarters of an hour, then clarify in the usual way, season to taste, and serve in cups with a thin slice of lemon. J« 248— BROILED VENISON CHOPS. Cut the chops of double thickness, trim the bone as you would for French lamb chops; tie a piece of buttered paper on the bare scraped bone; broil over a clear fire. Venison chops when properly cooked should be just a trifle pink on the inside, but this is an exception to the general rule of cooking game, and they should be either medium or well done ac- cording to individual tastes. Season them with salt and pepper while they are broiling, when done remove the buttered paper from the end of the bone, and slip on a frill or cuff. It may be served in individual dishes or prettily arranged with the cuffs upward and a napkin folded over in such a way as to let the cuff appear at the top. 249— VENISON POT PIE. Cut the venison as you would veal or lamb for a pot pie. The best way, how- ever, is to cut a slice from the round about three inches thick, then cut this in pieces suitable to serve three or four with each order. Chop an onion very fine, put in a sauce pan with a piece of butter the size of a lemon, fry until it just changes color, then put in the meat, fry three or four minutes longer, put in a teaspoonful of salt, half as much of white pepper; cover with either stock or water; put the lid on and boil gently until tender; when done thicken with browned flour. Make dumpling dough as directed elsewhere in this book, pour the stew in a baking dish, drop with a spoon all over, bake about twenty minutes. 250— ROASTED SADDLE OF VENI- SON WITH CURRANT JELLY. The saddle is commonly understood to be the leg. Haunch seems to be an Eng- lish term, but it is unsuitable, and we will designate our venison roast under the title of "saddle." Rub the venison with salt and pepper, and lay strips of fat salt pork all over; baste frequently so that it will not be dry. Serve with cur- rant jelly or champangne sauce. 251— VENISON PIE, HUNTER STYLE. Cut the venison meat as you would for pot pie, put it in a sauce pan with just enough stock to cover it; for every pound of meat add three slices of bacon cut in squares, one minced onion, a pinch of mace, two cloves, salt and pepper; boil with the lid on; when tender thicken with flour. Pour in a baking dish and cover with a crust made as follows: 1 lb. flour. yi lb. beef suet. 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, I teaspoonful of salt. Milk. Mix the baking powder with the flour and salt, put the suet through a sausage grinder, rub it into the flour, add enough milk to hold the ingredients together; roll and cover; will bake in about forty minutes; it will brown sufiiciently with- out brushing over with egg or butter. 252— ROAST VENISON, COLONIAL STYLE. Trim the saddle of the venison of the useless shank and all protruding bones, wipe dry and brush all over with butter, dredge with salt and pepper. Make a paste of two pounds of flour and a pint of water, cover the roast with it, bake with water in the pan. When done take it out from the crust and brown in a very hot oven ; throw away the crust. It will take a little more time to cook a saddle of venison by this method, but you will have a juicy tender meat unsurpassed by any other means. 253-ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP. A fat buck is distinguishable by its de- cided flavor of mutton, otherwise it re- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 43 sembles venison, and when cooked it is almost impossible to perceive the differ- ence. It can be cooked in all the ways that venison is prepared. The rib chops are certainly superior to other cuts. 254— OPOSSUM. It is rarely seen in our northern market, and is generally already prepared for cooking, but you may happen to get one fresh killed; proceed then just as for a pig, put a half peck of hard wood ashes in a boiler of scalding water, if the water is too hot you will spoil the skin, which is certainly the best part of the opossum; scrape clean, draw it, wash with cold wa- ter and wipe dry. 255— ROAST OPOSSUM WITH SWEET POTATOES. Split the opossom lengthwise; dredge with salt and pepper; put it in a pan with a pint of water and a pound of salt pork cut in pieces. Wash and peel some nice sweet potatoes of even size; lay them all around the pan with buttered paper over if the opossum is large. If the potatoes are done before the meat take them out and keep in a warm place until ready to serve. 256— ELK. Can easily be found at all game dealers. It is not as good as venison; it resembles beef more than it does any other meat; it may be good as a novelty, but cannot be called a delicacy. The choice cuts can be broiled or roasted like beef. 257— ELK, A LA POLONAISE. Take a piece of solid meat, it must be clean and weigh three or four pounds. }4 pint chopped onions. ^ It), of fat salt pork. 1 cup of claret. 2 cups of ale. I teaspoonful of pepper. I teaspoonful of salt. Mixed spices. Stock. Mix enough of all kinds of spices and aromatic herbs which you may have at hand to cover the bottom of a china plate. Cut the salt pork in strips as small as pos- sible to use in your larding meedle. Roll the strips in the plate of mixed spices and and insert them in the meat with a large larding meedle, put these in as evenly as possible. Put the scraps of pork and all the ingredients named, except the stock, in a deep sauce pan; put the cover on and let it cook gently till it is almost dry, but do not let it fry; then turn the meat over and cover with stock; turn the meat every hour until tender; take it out; strain the liquid that remains, skim off the fat, and boil it down to glaze on grav)\ Slice the meat crosswise of the larding. Serve with the sauce over. 258— ANTELOPE. Yet very numerous on the Western plain ; it is shipped in quantities to eastern markets and may be obtained at a very reasonable figure. Antelope has a musky flavor resembling that of the beaver. The meat is dark and very tender; it may be cooked in any way directed for venison. The steak is good fried, bxit must be cut thick and flattened with the broad side of the cleaver. 259— FILLET OF ANTELOPE AU CHAMPIGNON. Bone a rib piece, trim off the thin parts, to every pound of meat use a quar- ter pound of butter, bake in a hot oven with just enough water to prevent the corner of the pan from burning; when done strain a can of mushrooxns and put them in the pan; when hot place the fillet on a platter; strain the gravy to gather the mushrooms; place these all around the fillet; skim part of the fat from the gravy; pour over the fillet; put the juice of a lemon in the dish; garnish with pars- ley; must be served very hot. 260— COON. Is cooked like opossum ; instead of be- ing scalded and scraped like the opos.sum it has to be skinned. 44 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 261— BUFFALO. Resembles beef, and is cut and cooked in all the ways prescribed for it. 262— BEAR. Bear meat has the taste of pork, but is very dark, and like pork it must be well done. Young black bears when fat are good eating, others are tough and if used at all must be kept as long a time as pos- sible, that is until it is on the verge of spoiling. The loins and chops are good broiled and fried, the hams roasted and served with currant jelly, the coarse pieces stewed or fricasseed. 26S-RABBITS. Young rabbits compare favorably with chicken, and are cooked in every way prescribed for it. 264— BROILED RABBIT. Must be young rabbits. Split down the back and once across making four portions, wash and diy them, flatten the portions with a sharp blow with the cleaver, it will prevent the meat from curling up, rub the broiler with a piece of fat pork; brush the meat with butter, and broil about twenty minutes; dredge with salt and pepper; brush with butter once more, and serve with fried salt pork and fancy potatoes in the dish. 265— STEWED RABBIT WITH DUMPLING. 1 rabbit. 2 slices of salt pork. I onion. I teaspoonful black pepper. 1 teaspoonful of salt. % ft), flour. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. I teacupful of milk. Cut the rabbit down the back, trim the thin part of the ribs, make three or four portions of each side according to the size; let it stand in cold water about an hour, then boil in enough water to cover it for two hours or more, until the water is half gone; then cut the pork in dice and fry without browning, add the minced onion; when these begin to change color throw the contents of the frying pan into the kettle; season and thicken with a basting spoonful of flour. Make the dumpling dough with the flour, salt, powder, and milk; drop with a spoon in the stew ; cover and boil gently until done. 266- CIVET OF RABBIT. 3 young rabbits. I can of button mushrooms. ^2 cup of flour. % cup of butter. I basting spoonful of sherry. A bunch of aromatic herbs. Salt and pepper. Divide the rabbits in eight pieces, steep in cold water one hour, take out and let stand a few minutes so that the water will all run off; dredge with salt and pep- per. Melt the butter in a pan, put in the pieces of rabbit and fry; when they are browning shake the flour over till the pieces are well coated; put in the mush- rooms, one minced onion, and the aro- matic herbs; cover with water; stew slowly until the meat is tender; take out the herbs, add the wine; serve on buttered toast. 267— RABBIT WITH SPINACH. 2 rabbits. % lb. bacon. A bunch of soup herbs. Salt and pepper. Bone the legs and thighs, replace the bones with pieces of bacon, sew up, boil in a sauce pan with enough stock to cover it, the scraps of bacon and vegetables; salt and pepper. When done tender cut in small pieces, the boneless part only, and serv^e on a bed of spinach. 268— RABBITS A LA JARDINIERE. Cut the rabbits as directed in No. 266; cover with light stock; add a minced on- ion, a 1)uncli of herbs, salt and pepper. Cut up a pint of vegetables (carrots, white turnip, .squash and potatoes) in small round shapes with a Parisienne po- tato spoon or cutter. When the rabbit meat is cooked almost tender throw in the PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 45 vegetables, when they are done thicken with flour; season to taste. When finished the stew should be white, so the multi- color vegetables make a pretty contrast. 269— WILD DUCK. The familiar varieties seen on the mar- ket are the mallard, probably the best and largest, the canvas back, which con- noisseurs claim to have a fine flavor de- rived from their feeding on water celery, the red head, teal, pin tails, etc. All cannot be cooked in the same manner. Common duck will stand two hours' bak- ing, while a teal or canvass back would be spoiled by being baked a few minutes too long. 270-ROAST CANVASS BACK DUCK. Pick and singe carefully, draw, wipe inside and out with a cloth, but do not wash them; rub with fine salt and pepper, put them in a pan just large enough to hold them with a little stock and a piece of butter the size of an egg; roast from twenty-five to thirty-five minutes. Serve with the gravy in the pan and a border of watercress and fried hominy cakes. They should not be stuffed. 27J— ROAST MALLARD DUCK. Can be roasted like No. 270, but is a good deal better stuffed. It is naturally tender and will cook in an hour. When carving cut through the bones and make four portions to each duck. 272— ONION DRESSING. 1 quart of finely minced bread. Yi, cup of minced onion. I teaspoonful of powdered sage. Yi, cup of roast pork or sausage fat. I cup of warm water. I egg. Beat the &^^; add to the water; pour over the bread crumbs; mix all the in- gredients together; the bread should not be moist as it would not absorb any juices from the game or fowl for which it is used. 273— TEAL DUCK. Are at their best when broiled; may be roasted, but not stuffed; will cook in twenty-five minutes; serve with brown gravy. 274— WILD GEESE AND COMMON WILD DUCK. There are no better ways of cooking tough game, especially wild geese, brant, etc., than the process called braising. The wiry, tough, wild geese will not give satisfaction cooked by the ordinary methods of roasting. Braising is a mid- dle between roasting and boiling; they should not be stuffed when cooked in this manner. Take a heavy iron kettle, one that has a tight cover; put in enough stock or water to cover the bottom; put in the geese or ducks with one or two on- ions, a few cloves, a bunch of aromatic herbs, and a few slices of salt pork; put the lid on with a weight on top, three or four flatirons for example; thus the game shut in are subjected to a roasting degree of heat without its dryness. Do not let the kettle get dry, raise the cover every half hour and add a little stock if neces- sary ; in two to two and a half hours the toughest of them will be as tender as chicken. Skim the grease from the liquid remaining, thicken with browned flour, and serve with each portion. Cooked this way the ducks or geese have the ap- pearance of being roasted, but they have the advantage of being tender and juicy. 275 -ROASTED WILD GOOSE STUFFED. The goose must be plucked dry, singe with lighted paper, pick over carefully and wash, cut the wings off to the first joint — there isn't any eating on the sec- ond joint; draw the geese, and save the gizzard and heart, also cut the neck off close to the body. The baking pan used to bake the goose must be just large enough to hold it; put drippings, salt and pepper in the pan, put it in the oven so the con- tents will get hot beforehand. Dredge the goose with salt and pepper; put in the pan with slices of salt pork over the top; cook about three hours, but when the 46 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. slices of pork are brown and the goose sufficiently colored cover with a sheet of buttered paper; turn over three or four times and baste frequently. The gravy in the pan is not good to .serve. Send the goose to the table with un.sweetened apple sauce, cranberry, or currant jelly. 276— ROAST WILD GOOSE. Make the dressing as directed in No. 272. Stuff the goose full and plump, and proceed exactlj' as directed in No. 275. It will take three-fourths of an hour longer to bake when stuffed. The gravy in the pan is not suitable to make sauce. Cut up the giblets and mix them with some good brown gravy of .some other meat. 277— GEBLET SAUCE. Boil the gizzards, hearts and necks of the game or poultry in a sauce pan with stock for three and a half hours, add one onion and some brui.sed pepper corns while they are cooking, but no salt, as salt tends to make them tougher. When tender strain off the liquid in another vessel, throw away the necks and chop the gizzards; skim off all the clear grease and put the giblet liquor into the pan where the fowls or poultry have been roasted, if the contents of the pan are suitable. Boil and thicken the gravy, strain again and mix with the cut up giblets. 278 -WILD TURKEY. The fine natural flavor of wild turkej- .should be unalloyed wnth stuffings, herbs or seasonings other than salt and pepper. Wrap the turkey iu thin slices of fat salt pork, tied around with twine: dredge with salt and pepper, cook in a slow oven with a buttered paper over. As the size of wild turkeys vary from ten to thirty pounds the time necessary to bake them varys accordingly. When they are done tender cut out the strings and remove the salt pork, and brown in a very hot oven. Let the stock in the pan boil down to glaze and make the gravy out of it. Ser\'e with cranberry or spiced quince jelly, (see index for recipe. ) 279— QUAILS. Plentiful at all seasons of the year as they are kept in cold storage for month3 and are benefited by the keeping. The standard way of cooking quails is broiled on toast. They are very good roasted with accompaniments of peas, mush- rooms, or rice, but the vine quail can stand very well on its own merits alone; they are really at their best when broiled without the addition of anything what- ever. 280— BROILED QUAIL ON TOAST. Should not lie on the toast humped up and with the limbs directed many differ- ent ways, it should be flat and compact; to accomplish this trim the wings and neck as close as possible; cut along through the back bone with a coarse knife, then flatten with the broad side of the cleaver, strike hard enough to loosen the joints and press the breast bone, but do not make splinters of the bones. Rinse the quails in cold water and wipe dr}', dip in melted butter, hold a moment over the pan so that the butter will drip off; broil over a clear fire, they will broil in from eight to ten min- utes. Have some melted butter ready iu the pan; when the quails are broiled dredge over with salt and pepper, and press them down in the melted butter; keep hot until ready to serve; send to the table on toast cut in fancy shapes, garnish with watercress. 28J— ROASTED QUAIL. Draw, rinse and wipe clean; restore the livers; wrap each bird in a thin slice of fat bacon; dredge with salt and pepper; put a little stock and a glass of claret in the pan, roast in a hot oven, serve on toast saturated with the liquor in the pan. J* 282-QUAILS A LA FINANQERE. Draw the quails and keep the livers, chop these with an equal amount each of truffles, cold boiled ham, and fat salt pork, and- as much bread panada as all the other ingredients together; season with salt and pepper and a spoonful of sherry; PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 47 stufT the quails, sew them up; place in the baking pan as many slices of salt pork as you have quails to braise, enough stock and wine to generously cover the bottom; throw in some cut up carrot, celery, on- ion, and turnip; lay each quail on the salt pork with another slice on top ; dredge with salt and pepper all over; cover the pan as tightly as possible with a sheet of tin and a weight over; will bake in about twenty or twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. Strain the gravy from the pan, skim off the fat, put in some mush- rooms or truffles, and serve a spoonful over each quail. 283— QUAILS AUX PETITS POIS. (French Green Peas.) Broiled or roasted quail served with a border of imported peas stewed in butter; drain the peas; put a basting spoonful of fresh butter in a frying pan, when melted throw in the peas and leave them in just long enough to get hot. 284— SNIPE AND PLOVER. May be cooked in all the ways prescrib- ed for quail. Foreign epicures say that snipe or plover must not be drawn, but eaten with intestines in. The author has discovered since his arrival in America that this princely way of eating snipe does not seem to take very favorably with the most fastidious Americans, so we will prescribe to cook in style accordingly. 285— SNIPE, A LA PRINCE OF WALES. Draw, clean and wipe every snipe care- fully; fill them with a forcemeat made of equal parts of calf's liver, truffles, mush- rooms and a spoonful of wine, salt and cayenne; fill each one of the birds; wrap these in thin slices of salt pork; bake in a quick oven with water in the pan, and lay buttered paper over them so that they will not get brown; when done take them out and let them cool, and trim off any protruding bone; wrap each bird in a sheet of puff paste; pinch the ends so that there will be no apertures in the paste; brush over with beaten egg; bake in a hot oven; serve on leaves of lettuce. 286— BROILED SQUIRRELS. Proceed as for broiled rabbit, but do not cut in portions; they will cook in a shorter time. 287— PRAIRIE CHICKEN. Best when cooked in the simplest man- ner. Split open and flatten with the broad side of a cleaver, and broil like a chicken. Young birds only should be broiled, old ones braised or made into pie. 288— PRAIRIE CHICKEN PIE. Cut the birds in portions as directed for fowls; for two hens use: }4 R>. of ham. I onion. X lb. of butter. Salt and white pepper. I quart of beef stock. Cut the ham in small pieces, chop the onion, put in the butter,then the stock and boil gently until tender; pour the stew into a baking dish; cover with a thin sheet of puff paste; brush over with beaten egg; bake in a hot oven. 289— GROUSE. Grouse resembles a good deal the prai- rie chicken and can be cooked in all the ways prescribed for quail and other small birds. 290-GROUSE, A LA CHASSEUR. Roast the grouse in the oven until they are a nice color; cut them up and ser\-e in a sauce made of: I pint of brown gravy. I cupful of stewed tomatoes. I onion. Tablespoonful of wine. Lemon juice. Fry the onion in butter, add the toma- toes, then boil 10 minutes, add the brown gravy and wine, season to taste; strain through a coarse sieve; pour over the cut up grouse; serve on fancy shapes of but- tered toast. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 29J— BROILED PARTREDGE. The young ones only can be broiled. Split down the back, and flatten out as would for quail. 292— PARTRIDGE WITH CABBAGE. To every partridge take one small cab- bage. % lb. of bacon. 1 quart of stock. Salt and pepper. Place the partridge cut into halves in the bottom of a sauce pan ; cover with the rtock and bacon cut in slices; if old par- tridge simmer about an hour; put in the cabbage; cover and let simmer until done. It may be served jn individual portions or on a large platter, with the partridge in the middle and the cabbage chopped and heaped all around, the pieces of bacon used for a border with sprigs of parsley. 293— PARTRIDGE A LA BER- LESfOISE. Named in alhision to the mode of cook- ing employed by the citizens of Berlin. 2 partridges. I cupful of minced salt pork. I dozen of imported Frankfort sausages. lyi lbs. of Heinz's sauerkraut: Place the partridge in a sauce pan with the minced salt pork, cover with water, put the sauerkraut on top, boil till tender, a few minutes before serving put in the sausage. Serve as preceding, using the sausage instead of the bacon to decorate the dish. 294— ROAST PARTRIDGE. Young birds only can be roasted. Tie a slice of bacon over the breast, roast in the oven about three-fourths of an hour; baste every five minutes with a spoonful of melted butter and water mixed; serve ■with currant jelly or orange marmalade. 295— BALLOTINES OF PARTRIDGES. See index of Artistic Cookery. 296— SOUFFLE OF PARTRIDGE. Roast a young partridge ( useless to try an old one). Pick the meat free of skin or tendons; cut it extremely fine, then pound it to a paste in a mortar, it must be pounded smooth otherwise it will not rise. Make a thick sauce as follows: 2 oz. of flour. 2 oz. of butter. I cup of chicken broth. I tablespoonful of walnut catsup. 3 eggs. Seasoning of salt, pepper, mace and lemon rind. To one and one-half cups of the paste add one-half cup of the sauce, seasoning and walnut catsup, stir over the fire until boiling hot; when the mixture is cool add the yolks well beaten, then the frothed whites; bake in paper cases, will bake in fifteen minutes. They must be served immediately for they fall as they cool. 297— CUTTING UP FOWLS. No matter how good a carver is, it is impossible to make more than four first- class cuts, shapely, complete, and satis- factory, even if it is a large chicken. First, carve one side of the breast, slice off all in one by cutting under the wing joint; serve the wing with the breast. This makes two handsome orders of clear white meat covered with a brown outside unbroken; the wings should naturally be taken off at the first joint before cooking. Second — the first and second joint or thigh. This is taken off by holding the end of the drumstick and cutting hori- zontally, disjointing the thigh. If the fowl is really big and coarse do no serve the drumstick. Turn the chicken and cut the other side in a like manner. On each side of the back there is a small piece of meat generally called the oys- ters, this may be carved out and served if called for. When cutting raw fowls for stews or fricassees it is well to follow about the same rule if the chickens are of medium weight, otherwise they may be cut into eight orders, drumsticks, second joints or thighs, breast and wings. Cut the breast in two, then again lengthwise; then chop through the wing joint, but the best way is to make only four orders as described above. The bony structure may be cooked and whatever is left of the meat picked and PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 49 kept over to be worked into an entree with what may be left of the stew or fricassee. 29S_TO TRUSS ANY KIND OF FOWL. It becomes necessary to truss the fowl if it is to be serv^ed whole, the object be- ing to remove the breast bone so as to give the fowl when stuffed a round, plump appearance. Make no opening at the crop, but insert a narrow sharp knife and cut the meat from the breast bone inside without cutting through; when the ridge of the bone is reached cut through it a little so as to get away from the skin; when this is done twist it loose from the wing joints and pull it. 299— ROAST CHICKEN. Fresh killed chicken or fowl are dry and tasteless; keep them some time hanging up before they are used. If chickens, singe, draw, dreslge with salt and pepper, roast in the oven about an hour and a half according to their size; but if old fowls they must be boiled till tender, then dredged with salt and pepper and dusted with flour which insures a good color and bake a half an hour. 300-FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN, FRENCH STYLE. Cut a chicken in ten pieces, dredge with pepper and salt, roll in flour, fry in clarified butter or olive oil. Make a sauce of a pint and a half of chicken broth or light stock, piece of butter the size of an egg, flour thickening, cayenne, three yolks of eggs, juice of half a lemon. Prepare a cupful of Parisienne potatoes made as directed in recipe No. 149, but cut smaller, boil these in salt and water. Pile the pieces of chicken in the middle of the dish, pour the sauce over, and the potatoes all around. 30J— CHICKEN POT PIE. A nice fat fowl cut up in joints. X R). of salt pork cut in squares. I minced onion. Cover with water and boil until tender then add enough milk to make the sauce; season with salt and white pepper, thick- en to the consistency of cream; turn into an earthen baking dish; make dumpling batter and drop spoonfuls all over; bake in a moderate oven. Baste two or three times. 302— BROILED CHICKEN. Do not draw as usual, but split down the back on each side of the backbone and as close to it as possible; this will completely remove the backbone; draw clean and wipe dry; flatten with a blow of the broad side of the cleaver ; brush with butter; broil over a clear fire; it will look better and cook faster if you place a hot brick on top. 303— CHICKEN, A LA BECHAMEL. Boil the chicken in water; throw in a a teaspoonful of salt and half as much of white pepper; when done tender, but not so it will fall to pieces, take out and re- move all of the skin; put back in the ket- tle while you make the sauce with one cup of the broth strained through a nap- kin and thickened with flour, whip in a quarter cup of soft butter then a cup of rich cream ; put the chicken on a platter and let it remain a few minutes so the water will run off; place it on the dish in which it vrill be served; pour the thick sauce over so that every part vdll be coated; sprinkle with parsley dust. 304— CHICKEN BROTH AU LEGUMES, 1 chicken. 2 slices of salt pork. I cup of vegetables (carrot, imported green peas, turnip). T onion. Salt and pepper. Boil the chicken in enough water to cover it, throw in the onion, salt, pork and seasoning, add water sufficiently to have two quarts of broth when the chicken is done, cut a half cup of mixed carrot and turnip in small dice, boil these in water; take out the chicken; strain the stock through a napkin; add the half cup 50 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. of green peas, the other vegetables, and a cup full of dark meat of the chicken cut in squares. 305-CHICKEN PIE. 2 chickens. ^ lb. salt pork. I minced onion. I teaspoonful of salt. ^ teaspoonful of white pepper. I % pounds of flour. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. ^ lb. beef suet. Milk. Cut each chicken in six portions, it is still preferable to boil the chicken and pick the meat from the bones in as large pieces as possible. Put the chicken to boil with the salt pork cut in squares, the onion and .seasoning; boil until tender; thicken with a little flour; season to taste and pour into a baking dish; cover with a short paste itiade of the flour, baking powder, and beef suet minced extremely fine, salt and enough milk to make a dough. Another way is to line the sides and bottom of the baking dish with the paste, bake it in the oven, fill with the chicken, cover with a top crust and bake again. 306— CHICKEN PIE, BRUNOISE. 2 chickens. I slice salt pork. 1 minced onion. 2 large potatoes. Half a can ®f mushrooms. Salt and white pepper. Enough paste to cover. Cut the chicken in small pieces, about twelve pieces to each chicken, cut the fat pork extremely fine; put this in the frying pan; dredge the chicken with salt and pepper; put it into the pan; dust over with flour; frj' until it becomes a nice golden color. Fry the onion a light brown in a separate pan and when done throw in with the chicken; put in tne potato cut in small pieces; cover with stock and simmer until done tender, thicken with browned flour; put in the mushrooms; season to taste; pour the stew into a baking dish and cover with a thin sheet of puff paste; brush over with beaten egg; bake in the oven a nice color. 307— PLAIN CHICKEN PIE. Cut up two chickens in the usual way, boil in salt water until tender; when done add enough milk to make the sauce; sea- son to taste, and thicken with flour; pour the stew into a baking dish and cover with an ordinary baking powder crust made as directed for baking powder bis- cuits; bake about twenty-five minutes. 308-CHICKEN CUTLETS, CLAR- ENDON. % lb. of chicken meat picked and minced. % lb. bread panada. A basting spoonful of butter. I small minced onion. I tablespoonful of minced truflles, cepes or common mushrooms. Fry the onions, mushrooms or truffles in a i)an with the butter; put in the pan- ada; when hot add the eggs, and last the chicken and the seasoning of salt, pepper and sage; let the mixture get cold then make up in pear shapes with floured hands; insert a piece of macaroni or a clean chicken bone in each one; flatten to make them look like lamb chops. Give these a double breading by rolling in cracker meal, in beaten eggs and again in the meal. Serve with Bordelaise sauce ( see index for sauce. ) 309— RAGOUT OF CHICKEN GIBLETS. Cut the giblets in small pieces as evenly as possible; boil them until tender; strain off the liquor that remains. Mix a cup- ful of brown .sauce, add to it a spoonful of tomato catsup, thicken with browned flour and season to taste. Cut as much cooked chicken meat as you have giblets, put this and the giblets in the sauce. Butter a baking pan, put a basting spoonful of mashed potatoes every three or four inches, form these into oval shapes and make a hollow in the middle with the back of the spoon, dipped in hot water; brush these fonns over with beaten e^g\ brown in the oven; fill the hollows with the giblet preparation; lift out with the egg turner; serve on a large platter or individual dishes. Garnish with sprigs of parsley. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 51 310— CHICKEN CROQUETTES. Boiled fowl or chicken may be used, but they are a good deal better when roasted. Cut the meat in dice as small as possible; season lightly with salt and pep- per and a pinch of mace. Make cream sauce of double thickness; use a half cup- ful of sauce to every cupful of chicken meat; make in small cone shapes not any larger than walnuts, roll the.se in flour, dip them in beaten eggs, then in cracker crumbs, fry in clean hot lard, there must be enough lard in the kettle to cover them. Serve with French green peas. 311— PARISIAN CHICKEN CRO- QUETTES. Cut roasted chicken in dice as small as possible; to every cup of the chicken meat use: % cup of cepes or mushrooms. j % cup of truffles. ] % cup of bright red corned tongue. Cut these like the chicken. Make the cream sauce of double thick- ness and proceed as directed above, when cold make the croquettes in the shape of a pear, roll these in cracker crumbs, then in beaten eggs, and again in cracker crumbs. Care must be taken in frying that the shape is not spoiled. The lard must be hissing hot; when done stick in a whole clove for the blow and use a truffle or parsley root to imitate the stem. 3J2— CANELONS OF CHICKEN. Make the chicken croquette prepara- tion No. 311. Make portions half the size of an ordinary link sausage; wrap each one of them in thin sheets of puff paste; fry in hot lard, and serve with green peas. 3 13- CHICKEN LIVER IN CROUS- TADES. Clean and cut the livers in two; boil them in salted water until tender. Make a sauce with a pint of brown gravy, half a cup of tomato sauce, and a spoonful of sherry; if not thick enough, thicken with browned flour. Drain the livers and put them in the sauce with half a can of mu.shrooms. Prepare cold baking pow- der biscuits or raised rolls by cutting off the top and scooping out the insides; fry them in lard until they are crisp; fill them with the chicken liver preparation. 3H— CHICKEN BOILED WITH SALT PORK. I four pound fowl. ]/2 tb. streaked salt pork. Boil the fowl about an hour, throw in the salt pork cut in slices; when done take out the fowl and add a cup of milk or enovigh to make a pint of sauce; skim off any superfluous fat; season with salt and white pepper, and thicken to the consistency of rich cream. Serve a piece of the fowl with the sauce poured over, and a slice of salt pork. 3J5— CHICKEN SAUTE, A L'lTALIENNE. Cut two chickens in eighteen pieces or more according to size; fry them in a little butter on the side of the range. Mince a half cup of fat ham and one onion; fry these; when a light brown add a teaspoonful of curry, butter, salt and pepper, three cups of thin broth or one cup of brown gravy diluted with two of water; and one of stewed tomatoes; boil a moment; strain over the chicken; simmer gently until the chicken is tender. Boil a teacupful of rice half an hour in plenty of water; when done throw it into a col- ander, and pour three quarts of cold wa- ter over it; drain and put it in the oven a minute to warm and dry. Make a bed of the rice in a platter with two pieces of chicken on top and a spoonful of the gravy; or if you wish to send it to the table family style, pour the stew in a dish and heap the rice all around as a border. 3J6— CHICKEN MARYLAND STYLE. Singe and pick the chicken free from pinfeathers, split the chicken down the backbone, draw and wash, then divide into halves by chopping through the breastbone, then loosen the joints with a blow of the cleaver; dredge them thoroughly with salt and pepper and roll 52 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. in flour. Cover the bottom of a baking pan with thin slices of salt pork, bake these in a moderate oven until nicely colored and the fat all is out. Take up •what remains of the salt pork, and put in the chicken, skin side down, bake in a hot oven about three-quarters of an hour, or less if they are very small chickens; baste every ten minutes; when they are brown on one side turn over and brown the other side, do not let the contents of the pan get too brown or scorch; take the chickens out, add a piece of butter and a pint of milk to the contents of the pan, let it come to a boil on the range, and thicken with flour; strain, and serve a spoonful with each order of the chicken. 317— BOILED CHICKEN AUX OEUFS (EGG SAUCE). Boil the chicken whole in salted water; when done remove the skin carefully so as not to injure the appearance of the chicken but improve it. Make egg sauce as directed in No. 146, pour it over the chicken, garnish with slices of hard boiled eggs. If served in individual dishes it is unnecessary to garnish. 3Ja-CHICKEN CUTLETS A LA JARDINIERE. Only the four principal cuts of chicken can be used for this entree, the remainder may be kept for croquettes, chicken salads, or any other entree demanding cut up chicken. Cut off the legs at the second joint, and trim the wings at the first joint, removing them with as much breast meat as possible, boil them ten minutes in salted water, take them out and lay in a pan with a weight on top, when they are cold scrape off the skin, dip in cracker meal, then in beaten eggs, and cracker meal again; fry them in a pan of hot lard. If the chickens are not par- boiled and cooled they will not retain their shape when fried; the end of the bones should be scraped to imitate lamb chops. Cut some vegetables in fancy shapes, or if you have no fancy cutter shred them of even size; carrot, turnip, green peas, and squash make a good variety; co®k them in water, drain them dry, mix in a light cream sauce. Serve a cutlet in each dish with some of the vegetable mixture poured all around. 3J9— STUFFED ROAST CHICKEN. Young fat hens about a year old are the best fowls to roast as they can be roasted without previous boiling. Singe draw and wipe thoroughly; stuff with dressing as directed in the following rec- ipe: sew up and tie the legs, or you may thrust the legs into the body by just making a small cut on each side of the vent and pushing in the end of the legs; in this way it presents a nice compact appearance; brush over with butter and baste several times. 320— BREAD STUFFING FOR CHICKEN. Stuffing should not be made so moist that it cannot absorb all the juice of the meat nor should it be stuffed solid; the idea of stuffing is to impart the flavor of the dressing to the meat, and vice versa. I lb. of bread. yi teaspoonful of powdered sage. I cup of stock or warm water. I cup of roast pork or fried sausage fat. Salt and pepper. Chop the bread fine in a wooden bowl, add the sage and other seasonings; mix the warm fat and water together and pour over the bread. 32J— CHICKEN PATTIES. 1 chicken. I cupful of cream. Piece of butter the size of an egg. A basting spoonful of chopped parsley. Salt and pepper. Puff paste. Pick the chicken meat from the bones, cut it into small dice. Make a sauce of a cupful of the broth, butter and cream, season with salt and pepper and thicken. Throw in the chicken. Cut thin oval shapes of puff paste about three and a half inches long, brush over with an egg mix- ed with its volume of water, bake a gold- en color; when done split them; place the bottom crust on an individual dish PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. S3 and a spoonful of the chicken prepara- tion, lay the top crust over; garnish with cubes of boiled potatoes and sprigs of parsley. 322— CHICKEN PATTIES, NO. 2. Line muffin tins with puff paste rolled out thin, fill them with flour so that they will retain their shape. Cut round pieces of the puff paste of the right size to fit the top of the shells, brush over with eg,g and water, bake a nice brown. Shake out the flour from the patty shells, fill them with the chicken preparation men- tioned in recipe No. 321, put on the lid and ser\'e. 323— BRAISED CHICKEN. Cut the chickens in halves and flatten with the broad side of the cleaver, put them in a kettle which has a good tight cover, throw in a half cup of minced salt pork to every chicken, salt and pepper and a piece of nutmeg, a pinch of cloves, and a half of a minced onion, put in just enough stock to prevent burning, put the lid on and cook in the oven; when done strain the liquor, skim oflf the superfluous fat, and thicken with browned flour. 324— CHICKEN WITH TOMATO SAUCE. Cut the chicken in joints, roll them in flour, dredge with salt and pepper, fry in butter or olive oil, when done take the chicken out and put a pint of tomatoes in the pan with a cupful of the broth, stew down to about a pint, thicken with flour; heap the chicken on a dish and strain the sauce over it. 325— CHICKEN A LA MARENGO. Prepare the chickens as for the preced- ing recipe, add to the sauce when made a basting spoonful of sherry, half a cup of cepes or mushrooms, grate in a clove of garlic; serve as the preceding with mush- rooms and parsley for a garnishing. 326— FILLETS OF CHICKEN. Remove the breast of the chicken in one piece, lay them on a table and divide in two lengthwise. Peel and boil two medium sized cucumber for the meat of each chicken (four fillets), when done tender mash it through a sieve, season this puree lightly, take two basting spoonfuls of it mixed with an equal quan- tity of thick white sauce; dip in each chicken fillet; roll it in cracker crumbs, dip in beaten egg, and cracker crumbs again; fry in hot lard, and drain on a sheet of manila paper. Season with salt and white pepper the remainder of the puree of cucumber, put a spoonful in each individual dish with a fillet of chicken in the middle. 327— FILLETS OF CHICKEN AUX ASPERGES. Asparagus Tips. 2 chickens. I pint of rich cream sauce. I cupful of green asparagus tips. lyi lbs. of red corned tongue. Cook the chicken in salted water, when done remove the breast so as to make four portions of white meat from each chicken, the best way to proceed is to remove one side whole, then cut it in two. Lay the pieces of chicken in the center of an individual dish, coat it with a spoon- ful of rich cream sauce made as directed in recipe No. 321. Boil the asparagus in salted water and alternate around with pieces of the tongue, cut of length and size to match the tips. 328— BREAST OF CHICKEN, A LA CASTELANE. Prepare the breast of chicken as de- scribed for the preceding recipe; instead of using asparagus tips, arrange slices of truffles and corned tongue all of even size, around the dish. 329— FILLET OF CHICKEN, A LA REGENCE. Disjoint the legs and wings with the brea.st so as to make four portions of each chicken, lay these on the table, open so as to remove the bones from the legs, cutting only on one side; split the breast open. Replace the cavity made by tak- 54 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKlvRY. ing out the boue of the leg with the Pa- risian croquette preparation, inclose a spoonful in the open breast, roll these up in thin slices of salt pork, tie them up compactly with twine, simmer at the side of the range until tender, cut the twine so the salt pork will fall off and serve on a fanc)' shape of buttered toast. 330— SUPREME OF CHICKEN, A L'ECARLATE. Boil the chicken in stock seasoned with a half cup of minced salt pork and lemon cut in quarters, and salt; when done cut in boneless portions, make a supreme sauce as directed in No. 321 and pour over each portion of the chicken. Cut strips of red corned tongue smaller than a pencil, lay them across the dish and finish garnishing with red beet and sprigs of parsley. 331— CHICKEN IN TARTARE. Boil the chicken in salted water, when cold make two portions of each leg and three of the breast, dredge with salt and pepper, roll in flour, dip in beaten eggs and water, then in cracker meal; fry in deep lard; serve M'ith tartare sauce and garnish with green pickles. 332— FRIED CHICKEN LYONAISE. Boil and fry the chicken as directed in the preceding recipe; serve these on a bed of frizzled onions. Slice the onions, throw them in a kettle of hissing hot lard , they will immediately separate in rings; when they are of a nice color and crisp take them out and drain carefully. 333— CHICKEN FRICASSEED WITH MUSHROOMS. Cut each chicken in ten portions, pro- vided they are not extremely small, boil these with just enough stock or water to cover them, throw in a basting spoonful of butter or fat salt pork minced extreme- ly fine, salt and pepper; when done drain off the liquor and add enough water to make one pint, then put in one cup of milk; season more if necessary, and thick- en with flour; throw in a cupful of button mushrooms; pour over the chicken; serve with a border of mashed potatoes. 334— CHICKEN CURRY. Cut the chicken in small pieces ( 18 or 20) boil in enough water to cover it; add a basting spoonful of minced salt pork, one minced onion, teaspoon ful of salt; when almost done throw in a tablespoon- ful of curry, a little more or less accord- ing to taste; thicken with corn starch. Cook a teacupful of rice according to rec- ipe given elsewhere in this book; when ready mix with the chicken curry. Serve verv hot. 335— FILLET OF CHICKEN, PAUNCEFORTE. Boil the chicken an hour in salted wa- ter; let cool and cut off the breast in three slices; spread over each piece forcemeat made of the chicken legs and cream sauce, smooth over with a knife dipped in hot water; brush over with beaten ^gg and cover half of them with chopped truffles and a dusting of bread crumbs; the other half with chopped ham and bread crumbs; bake them in the oven and serve with a puree of cucumbers. Garnish the dish with slices of truffle and thin leaves of heart lettuce. ..* 336— CHICKEN SAT'TE AUX HARICOTS. Cut the chicken in small pieces and fry in butter until tender, dredge with salt and pepper. Make a sauce of a pint of brown gravy, a half cup of stewed toma- toes, and one-fourth cup of ordinary white wine, boil fifteen minutes and strain, sea- son to taste, add a half cup of green peas, as much of string beans, and a basting spoonful of minced parsley. Serve three pieces in each dish with enough sauce to coat it nicely. Garnish with fried bread cut in small round shapes and bright green peas. 337 -CHICKEN CUTLET, TOMATO SAUCE. Roil the chicken in salted water, when done cut it up in joints and cool with a PRACTICAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 55 weight OH top; give them a double bread- ing iu the usual way; fry in hissing hot lard, and drain on manila paper; serve with tomato sauce. 338— CHICKEN SOUFFLE IN CASES. Pound the white meat of one chicken through a sieve so as to obtain a smooth paste. To a cup of the chicken paste add a tablespoonful of butter, two basting spoonfuls of cream and two eggs, whip the whites and yolks separately, add the whipped whites last; bake in paper cases as directed for souffle or partridge. 339— PATTIES OF FOWL L' IM- PERIAL. Make patty shells with a copper shape, dip in batter as directed in Part III of this book. Prepare the filling with the breast of chickens minced extremely fine and an equal quantity of rich cream sauce; fill the shells two-thirds full of this chicken cream, whip enough eggs to heap on each patty; salt the eggs and color them green with parsley juice, bake in a slack oven just enough to set; serve on fancy lace paper. ^ 340- -A PUREE OF CHICKEN FOR THE SICK. Cook a chicken in salted water until very tender, when done pick from the bones carefully, pound the meat through a sieve, put it back in the broth, add enough milk to make it the consistency of cream, boil once and add a tablespoon- ful of liquid pepsin. 341— POTAGE OF CHICKEN, A LA RICHELIEU. Boil a chicken in water with a season- ing of salt, white pepper, a minced onion, a carrot, stalk of celery and a grating of the rind of a lemon; when done take the chicken out and strain the broth through a napkin, there should be about three pints, boil this down to one quart, then add a quart of milk and a piece of butter the size of a lemon, or if the chick- en is very fat dispense with the butter and skim the superfluous fat; thicken slightly with flour, whip in the yolks of three eggs, strain through a sieve and keep hot in a bain marie (double dish); add a half cup of blanched almonds split in halves and as much of chopped mush- rooms. Roll out a thin sheet of puff paste, cut little squares the size of a nick- el, brush these over with beaten eggs, bake in the oven until brown ; serve four or five in each plate. 342-HOW TO MAKE CHICKEN TENDER. It may be a good deal of trouble to ac- cept the following rule but the result will be a surprise. Do not bleed the chickens, but wring their necks and plunge them immediately in cold water and let them remain twenty-four hours. It will be rather difficult to pick them, but it can be done nicely with a little patience; the chickens will be white and juicy. 343-TURKEY. Leave aside the old prejudice that a turkey boiled is a turke}^ spoiled. There is no worse abomination than a badly cooked fowl, especially a turkey. A cock turkey is the best for roasting, but an old turkey or hen is preferable boiled and it will lose nothing of its flavor; it is espec- ially good with oysters, mushrooms, or white sauce, can also be stuffed, boiled and served with cranberry sauce. 344— ROAST TURKEY. Pick and singe the turkey, take off the wing to the first joint as there is little or no eating on them when roasted; wash carefully and stuff with bread dressing made as directed in recipe No. 320. Thrust the legs into the body by cutting with a knife on each side of the vent and pass in the joint at the end of the drum- stick; put it into a baking pan, dredge over with salt and pepper; add a pint of water and a little piece of butter or a spoonful of the drippings; roast from two to two and a half hours. Keep a sheet of buttered paper over the turkey for the first half hour to prevent the skin from blistering, remove it at the first basting 56 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. so that the turkey will brown, when done skim the grease and make gravy in the pan ; do not strain ; have a dish of cran- berries on the table. 345— BOILED TURKEY WITH SALT PORK. Clean and wash the turkey, thrust the legs into the body as directed in recipe No. 344, boil in salted water, when it has boiled two hours put in 12 slices of streaked salt pork. When the turkey is done make a white sauce of a pint of the stock, piece of butter the size of an egg and flour to thicken. Serve with a slice of the pork and a spoonful of the sauce. 346— BOILED STUFFED TURKEY, CRANBERRY SAUCE. Make a bread stuffing as directed in recipe No. 320, and stuflF the turkey a little more solid than you would to roast, sew up the openings at the crop and vent, and tie down the legs, boil until tender, put it in a baking pan in the oven for a few minutes so that the water that may have gotten in may run out. Serve with cranberry sauce. 347— BOILED TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE. Boil the turkey as directed in preceding recipes and serve with oyster sauce No. 145- 348— LARDED TURKEY WITH MUSHROOMS. Lard the turkey with lean bacon using the coarsest larding meedle, boil until tender; make a bechamel sauce, add a can of mushrooms to it; serve a spoonful on each portion of the turkey. 349— TURKEY BOILED WITH CELERY. Clean and wash the turkey, thrust the legs in the body as directed elsewhere, boil an hour then add two heads of celery cut in finger lengths, and boil gently un- til the turkey is tender; reduce the liquor to about a quart, throw in the green celery leaves, let come to a boil again; add a piece of butter the size of a lemon, thicken with flour and rub through a fine sieve, serve a spoonful over each portion of the chicken, sprinkle with chopped green celery leaves. 350— MINCED TURKEY WITH POACHED EGGS. Use the remnants of the roast turkey, pick off the meat carefully, cut it in very small dice, moisten with cream sauce and butter or stock only, season to taste ; serve on buttered toast with a poached egg in the middle; garnish with quartered lemon. 351— TURKEY PATTIES. Make patty shells as directed for oys- ter patties. Cut the turkey in small dice and mix them with an equal quantity of cream savice; fill and serve. 352— FRIED FILLET OF TURKEY. If you have any cold boiled or roasted turkey left, the boiled preferred, cut in portions as even as possible, dredge with salt and pepper, roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and roll in cracker meal, fry in hiss- ing hot lard, serve with green peas. 353— TURKEY CROQUETTES, TO- MATO SAUCE. Use the remnants of boiled or roasted turkey, pick the meat and cut it into very small dice, to each cup of turkey meat add a half cup double cream sauce, when cool make into shapes of chicken cro- quettes, bread in the usual way, fry in hissing hot lard. Make tomato sauce as directed elsewhere and serve a spoonful with each croquette. 354— DOMESTIC DUCK. Can be cooked in about the same ways as wild duck. It being difficult to tell the age of ducks after they are carefully dressed, the best way to proceed if you are not sure of being the possessor of a -, ca J3 ^ at square ! the leg Now for wing soc a D J> D .-Id .5 H e bac hen 1 thwis i) to < ^ -^ bo w 5 'S " !^ > -^ ^ c a; 0^ ttach hefo , cutt st boi < u .s ^ -^ 2 H id joint sure wit to the s m the b DC the secor light pres according utting fro (U tn y ■V 'A t. ' n(i1 w joint or ni e me fc -o $ -S fi -5 4-: oj ^ cS en W -a cu SI 4_, OJ 'O .5 S £ 5 (U PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 57 young duck is to roast it with a good deal of water in a pan with a greased paper over, and do not attempt to reduce the gravy or brown it until the legs are ten- der; then remove the paper and if neces- sary take out some of the gravy in the pan and brown it to a nice color; serve with apple sauce; or again they may be stuffed witli any turkey or chicken dress- ing and served with giblet sauce. 355— DUCKLINGS WITH GREEN PEAS. Roast the young ducks as j'ou would spring chickens, they will cook in thirty or thirty-five minutes. Serve half a duck with imported green peas. 356-SAUTE OF DUCKS, WITH TRUFFLES. Cut the duck in small pieces, fry in a pan with a very little butter; dredge over with salt and pepper. Make Bordelaise sauce No. 138, add to it sliced truffles. Serve two pieces of the duck with a spoonful of the sauce over; garnish with slices of truffles, corned tongue and sprigs of parsley. Jit 357— DOMESTIC GOOSE ROASTED. Draw and clean the goose and fill with bread stuffing No. 320; dredge with salt and pepper, and put enough water in the pan to prevent the corners from burn- ing; serve with apple sauce. Another way is to stuff the goose with sliced ap- ples. If the goose is old parboil an hour before roasting. Jt 358-BOILED GOOSE WITH BAKED APPLES. Boil the goose in salted water until tender. Core a dozen large apples and bake them in the oven with a piece of butter in the cavity made by removing the core; serve one with each portion of the goose. 359— CHESTNUT STUFFING FOR TURKEYS AND CHICKEN. ]4 lb. of minced cooked veal. 4 ozs. fat salt pork. 4 ozs. bread panada. I egg. Salt, pepper and powdered thyme. Juice of half a lemon. Mix all the ingredients together and add 25 large chestimts, boiled in salted water then peeled and the inner skin scraped off, mash them as you would po- tatoes and mix with the stuffing. Sausage meat can be used in place of the cold veal. 360-SAUSAGE MEAT STUFFING. Sausage meat makes excellent stuffing with the addition of half its volume of bread panada. .^ 361— CHESTNUT SAUCE. Boil 50 large imported chestnuts, peel and scrape off the inner skin, cut them in halves and mix with the turkey gravy. 362— PUREE OF CHESTNUTS. A good accompaniment for roast do- mestic or wild turkey and chickens. Boil 25 large imported chestnuts for half an hour, peel and scrape off the inner skin, wash them in cold water and boil in chicken broth an hour and a quarter longer; mash them like you would pota- toes; season with salt, add butter and milk. 363— ROAST GREEN GOOSE. (Young Goose. ) Green goose should not be stuffed, but roasted like ducklings and served with ma.shed sweet potatoes. 364— GOOSE STUFFED WITH POTATOES. Roasted in the usual way, but stuffed with mashed potatoes and fried onions mixed in, use two large onions to every cupful of mashed potatoes. Meats — Roasted^ Broiled^ Boiled* 365— ROAST BEEF. The best cut of beef to roast is the short rib. Each rib will -weigh on an average of two pounds when trimmed ready for the pan. A two rib roast is a nice size for a family of ten and there should be enough left for cold sliced roast beef, .so delicious with celery salad. It is at its best when ju.st done and the grav}' flows freely as soon as it is cut. It should not be put in the oven a long time before the meal is ready, but you should calculate to put in the roast beef just an hour and a quarter before dinner. Dredge the beef with salt and pepper, have the pan hot, put in the meat with barely enough water to prevent the corners of the pan from burning. If the oven is very hot it will seal the meat, so to speak, by a quick surface baking and prevent the juice to a certain extent from oozing out; this will take fifteen minutes and not vinlil then should the stock or water be added to the pan. Use about a quart of the stock for basting, do not use it all at once, but baste frequently with a ladle full. The gravy should not be thickened in the pan, but served in its natural stale. The French call it au jus, which very proper- ly means "own juice." In England it is a practice in private families to pour the gravy in the dish in which the meat is carved. In carving a considerable quan- tity of beef juice runs out at each cut, this is mixed with the gravy in the dish and served with every slice. It is proba- bly not as cleanly a way as to serve the gravy in a side dish, but it is so succulent and nourishing that etiquette should be set aside for once. In England the national accompani- ment of roast beef is the Yorkshire pud- ding. I would advise every reader to try Yorkshire pudding with their roast beef, feeling confident that if tried once it would not be the last lime. 366— YORKSHIRE PUDDING. The original Yorkshire pudding is baked in a reflecting oven underneath the beef roasting on a spit, catching the gravy and baking at the same time. This is not practical and moreover is so long and difficult, and there being another way of obtaining almost as good results that I will not advocate this mode of cooking. It will have almost the original richness if you are careful to follow the directions given for roasting beef in No. 365, and bake the pudding only 15 minutes before it is time to serve. Cut in oblong pieces with a slice of the beef on top and a good deal of the gravy. I Y2 cups of flour. An even teaspoonful of baking powder. 3 cups of milk. A basting spoonful of melted butter. 3 eggs. Salt. Mix the baking powder thoroughly with the flour, then sift, mix with the milk, avoid any lumps, add the melted butter, the salt, and lastly the eggs well beaten, beat the mixture quicklj' for five minutes. Grease a baking pan small enough so that the mixture when poured in will be half an inch thick, make it hot in the oven and pour in the batter. 367— ROAST BEEF, WELL DONE. Well done beef can be juicy and the gravy will flow the same as the rare, al- though in smaller quantities, if managed in the same way. When rare roast beef requires one hour, let the well done re- main in the oven twice as long. Or you may cut the thin end of the rib by sawing off and put it in the pan with the thicker part, use the thin for well done and the thick for rare, but of course the choice cuts will be the rare. As a general rule PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKKRY. 59 it is very unusual to find tastes so widely different in one family, so it may be pref- erable to cook it without sawing off the ends and all in one way, but as we must cater to everbody's taste we must direct likewise. Basting is an important matter in roasting beef. Many authors of cook books will advise to turn the beef very frequently in the pan and that it will an- swer the same purpose as basting, but if you baste with the spoon and turn over only once you will not have to stick the fork in the meat so often, thus punctur- ing the beef and letting the juice escape. Too much care cannot be exercised in catching the gravy in rare or well done beef as it is really the essential part of perfection in the serving of roast beef. 36&— ROAST RIB ENDS OF BEEF. Use the piece of the ribs that are sawed off from the end of the rib roasts; these will take three hours and a half to cook; they will be well done, but make a deli- cious dish. The glaze or gravy will be so much richer than the ordinar}' juice that it appears as a dish of diflferent nature altogether. Put in a pan and sprinkle liberally with salt but no pepper; put in a quart of stock or water and a ladle full of drippings that are fresh and sweet, let them simmer in the oven for three hours or so with water in the pan all the time; when tender you may put the pan on the top grate of the oven and let the water evaporate and the meat get brown; turn the meat frequently so as to brown it all around; when done skim oflf the super- fluous fat; add a little pepper, and salt if necessary, to season to taste. Cut pieces of beef about an inch thick with a rib to each order and a spoonful of the glaze. These cuts are commonly called in hotels and restaurants "short ribs of beef," but this is erroneous as the short rib is the choicest roast. 369— FLANK ROAST. Cook as directed in recipe No. 368. It may take a little longer to cook, but will be tender if you keep water in the pan. When done boil the gravy to a glaze. 370— STUFFED FLANK OF BEEF. Split the flank and lay it on a table, spread all over with a turkey dressing, roll it up and tie with twine; roast as di- rected for rib ends. To make a nice, neat roll you must not spread the force meat in such a manner that it will come out at both ends or where the roll comes to- gether; to prevent this leave the edges of the flank clear of the dressing and sew up the ends. 371— BOILED STUFFED FLANK OF BEEF. Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe; put in a kettle with enough wa- ter to cover it and one onion, two cloves, a tablespoonful of salt and one of bruised pepper corn; boil until tender; may be served with mustard sauce, or may be served cold sliced across the grain. 372— BOILED BEEF WITH HORSE- RADISH. Flank, rib ends, or even the meat from the shanks of the beef boiled tender in the soup kettle are good served with grated horseradish in the dish. Use the broth for stock, consommes, and other purposes 373 -SALT BEEF. There is a distinct difference in taste between plain salted beef and corned beef. Salted beef seems popular with the German and Knglish and is certainly good eating with Brussel sprouts, stewed peas, green beans, cabbage, or boiled vegetables of any kind. To salt beef proceed as follows: Take a flank, round, or rib ends, rub it all over with salt, put it in a covered jar and rub with salt ever day for a week then wash it in cold water and it is ready to use. 374— UNNKCESSARY BONING OF MEAT. It is a very objectionable practice in- deed to bone all kinds of meat. Some 6o PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKBRY. butchers go so far as to bone a prime rib roast thus destroying the individuality of the meats and making them look all alike. It may be easier carving to simply slice off a roll of meat from end to end but it is easily penetrated by the liquid in the baking pan, losing the largest part of its gravy through the many unnecessary cuts made by the boning, especially the roast of beef where the juice is ready to burst out from the smallest puncture. The only meats that are better boned and rolled are those mentioned in the entrees where they are accompanied by season- ings and cooked in such a way that they will appropriate these; and again the shoulder of mutton which is so strongly flavored and so fat that it is benefited by the losing of a good deal of both. ^ 375_HOW TO MAKE CORNED BEEF. Pieces of flank, ribs, and other coarse pieces can be made into delicious corned beef if the easy directions given here are carefully followed. The brine is also good for tongues. The saltpeter contained in the brine is what gives the corned beef its nice pink color. The trouble with corned beef generall}- comes from not dissolving the saltpeter in water. If the saltpeter crystals are put into a strong brine that holds in solution all that it can possibly hold, it will not dissolve. A large earthen jar is the best in which to pack the corned beef, and do not forget a weight on top. 2 gallons of water. 2 ozs. of saltpeter. I teacupful of light syrup. 4 lbs. of coarse salt. Dissolve the saltpeter crystals in the water, when it is thoroughly dissolved add the rest of the ingredients and boil all together, skim while boiling, pack the meat in the jar, let the brine cool a while then pour over the beef. If you are in a hurry the brine may be added to the jar while hot, otherwise you may cool it be- low the boiling point; cover with a piece of hard-wood board that will fit inside the jar with a clean stone on top. The corned beef will be ready to use in about a week. 376-BROILING. Broiled meat is certainly easier of di- gestion than the fried meats, beef steak especially. Broiled carefully over a clear fire it will not lose any of its juices, that is if broiled quickly on one side only a moment then turned over, not giving time for the juice contained in the meat to rise to the surface on the raw side; the surface is then cooked on each side and the juice is sealed in. Few families are the possessors of a charcoal broiler, but meat can be nicely broiled over the glowing coals in the range, the only trouble is the smoke and smell it occasions. This can be remedied by the use of the family broiler patented by a chef well known in the business, and on sale bj^ Delaware & Timerman, of Massena, N. Y. This practical broiler can be obtained at a nominal sum, and is made so that it fits over the griddle of an}' range, and meat can be broiled with- out the inconvenience of smoking or checking the oven. I do not write this as an advertisement, but simply as an advice. But to get back to our point, beef steak can be broiled over a family range and covered with a piece of tin or anything else convenient, and if the drafts are open, the smoke, or most of it, will go up its usual course. To prevent the meat from sticking to the iron or wire bars of the broiler it should be brushed over with butter; the best way to do this is to use a small camel's hair brush and a little melted butter, and it will broil easier and look better for it. Naturally when broiling fat mutton or pork chops it is not necessary to brush over with butter. It is often necessary to reduce the troublesome flames caused b)' the dripping fat, by throwing in a handful of coarse salt on the coal. In turning the meat, especially the beef steak, the fork must be thrust only in the edge or fat. Treated in this man- ner the meat will yield a gravy of its own after being laid in the dish a few moments. If you wish to make blood gravy for the invalid, cut a few additional pieces of beef , broil these on the fire for onl}- a moment, lay them in a pan where it is not hot enough to cook the gravy and pick with Cuts of Beef. 1. Hind Shank. 2. Round. 3. Rump. 4. Loin. 5. Flank. 6. Navel End. 7. Brisket. 8. Rib. 9. Chuck. 10. Clod. 11. Foreshank. 12. Neck. Sirloin 1 Tenderloin > Cut from No. 4 Porterhouse J Spencer Roil, cut from No. 9 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 6i a fork several times; you will then obtain an astonishing amount of blood gravy. 377— BROILED BEEF STEAK AND GRAVY. Take a whole sirloin steak, notch the edges to prevent curling, and beat it on the table with the butt end of a coarse knife. Broil it over the fire just long enough to color it nicely on both sides, put it in a pan with a half cupful or more of good fresh butter, as much of wa- ter, salt and black pepper; lay this on the range until it comes almost to a boil then let it set in the oven a few minutes, and there you have your old-fashioned beef steak. 378— PORTERHOUSE STEAK. Porterhouse steak is considered by many as the choicest of all, but this is a matter of taste, and again the same cuts may taste and look different according to the beef from which they are cut. There is porterhouse steak almost a foot thick, down to four or five inches. No rules can be laid down for the selection of beef, but you must look it over yourself and thus make sure of a choice article. 379— BEEF STEAK WITH FRENCH FRIED POTATOES. A tenderloin, a porterhouse, or sirloin broiled and seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, and a few drops of lemon juice squeezed over, and French fried potatoes all around. French fried potatoes are made by cut- ting the potatoes in strips of even size, about eight pieces to an ordinary size potato, and fried in deep hot lard. When they rise to the surface and are of a nice golden color drain and shake salt over while they are still hot. 380— BEEF STEAK A L'HOTELIERE. Broil the beef steak and lay it c n a hot platter, melt a basting spoonful of butter, add to it a teaspoon ful of chopped pars- ley, then pour it over the stCi'.L. Squeeze the juice of a quarter oi a lemon and This ve the rest in the dish as a garnish, recipe is for an individual portion. 381— BEEF STEAK A LA TOULOUSE. Broil beef steak in the usual way. Make a sauce of a half cupful of brown gravy and half a teaspoonful of bruised pepper corns, a teaspoonful of vinegar and a quarter cup of water to thin it down. Boil rapidly for three or four minutes strain and add to it a teaspoonful of French capers. 382— BEEF STEAK WITH MUSH- ROOMS. One can of ordinary mushrooms will make five orders; drain dry, put them in a small frying pan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, stir until they begin to brown then work in a heaping teaspoon- ful of flour and pour in a little stock or water to make gravy, season with salt and white pepper and a squeeze of lemon, let come to a boil once and pour around and over the beef steak. Canned mushrooms bear no comparison in richness and delicate flavor with the fresh mushrooms eaten in Europe and this country. There are a good many kinds, some are poisonous; take no chances with any of Ihem except the one kina which is of a flesh color on the under side when very young and darkens to a brown color then to black as it continues to grow. When these can be obtained cut the stem quite close to the mushroom, peel off the top, rinse it in cold water to free it from grit and fry in enough butter to cover the bottom of the pan while cooking. They will shrink very quickly and give out a very rich, luxurious gravy; this you must not allow to dry in the pan; season with salt and pepper when they are done, this will be in eight or ten minutes. Place on the beef steak and pour the gravy over. 383-BEEF STEAK, A L'ESPAGNOLE. Put into a frying pan a tablespoonful of butter and while it it mt'ii.i.,<, grate a clove of garlic and a small white onion, let these fry light yellow; add two good 62 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. sized peeled tomatoes or a quarter of a cup of stewed tomatoes, a little pinch of cayenne and salt; let these stew down until they fry. Broil the beef steak in the usual manner and serve with the con- tents of the pan dished all around. 384— BEEF STEAIC, A LA DIABLE. (Deviled.) Beef steak broiled in the usual manner and served with a sauce made of one basting spoonful of brown gravy and half as much of Worcestershire sauce. This recipe is for individual portions. 385— BEEF STEAK WITH TO- MATOES. For each portion peel two medium sized tomatoes, mash them and season with butter, salt and pepper and stew them thick without burning; serve these around the broiled beef steak. 386— BEEl'" vSTEAK AUX ONIONS. For each portion of the steak slice one large onion as thin as possible, fry them in a little butter and lard mixed in equal proportions in a small pan covered with a pie plate; they will be done in four or five minutes; then take off the plate and brown slightly. Heap in one side of the pan and tip it a little so that the grease will drain from the onions; sea.son with salt and serve on top of the steak. 3S7— BEEF STEAK WITH SPA- GHETTI. For each indiviiUuil order boil a small half cupful of broken spaghetti, when done drain out and warm in the pan with a tablespoonful of melted butter and as much of tomato sauce or catsup; turn these in a hot platter and lay the broiled steak on top. 388— BEEF STEAK WITH OYSTERS. Broil beef steak in the usual way and serve it with brown oyster sauce No. 124. 389— HAMBURGH STEAK, Put the beef through a sausage cutter. To every pound of lean beef mix }( pound of clean beef suet and a basting spoonful of minced onions or a clove of garlic and a seasoning of salt and pepper; flatten out to a cake and fry on both sides and serve with Lj'onaise potatoes around. Many object to either the onions or garlic in the preparation of the Hamburgh steak, these can be omitted; also the Lyonaise potatoes, instead of which use cold boiled polatf)es fried a nice brown in butter. 390— TOUGH BEEF STEAK. There are no recipes, no modes of cook- ing that will make a tough beef steak broil tender. A beef steak quickly broiled over hot clear coals in a good broiler, cooked rare or well done according to taste, with simple sea.soning of butter, salt and pepper, all this without standing any longer than is necessary to serve, is all the cook can do toward serving a good beef steak. The first requirement is to get good, tender, juicy steak about an inch thick, or even more, well matured, and steak that does need no pounding. It will cook in six minutes if wanted rare or ten minutes if well done. 391— ROAST MUTTON. All that has been written concerning roast beef applies equally to mutton, which is very often wanted rare done, especially if you have any English friends. There are breeds of sheep that are raised for mutton and very often it is preferred to lamb. No directions can be laid down directing the time of cooking, as legs of mutton will vary from three to seven pounds, you will have to use your own judgment and experience. When it is of a nice brown you may pick with a fork around the edge of the bone, and if no pink juice runs out you may conclude that it is done, but do not accept this as a given rule. 392— BOILED LEG OF MUTTON, CAPER SAUCE. The leg is certainly the proper cut to boil, but the boned shoulder may be used PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 63 to advantage. It may be boiled in a soup kettle and the stock used to make a Scotch mutton broth. Be careful not to pick with a fork as this will tend to make it very dry. It will generally cook in about three hours. Serve with caper sauce made as directed in recipe No. 393. 393— CAPER SAUCE. Make a butter sauce No. 126 and mix in a small portion of the capers and vinegar. 394— ENGLISH MUTTON CHOPS. Cut the chops of double thickness, that is, two ribs in each chop, and take out one bone leaving all the meat on the other; flatten with the broad side of the cleaver but leave it thick; broil it rare or well done according to taste; season with salt and pepper. 395-MUTTON CHOPS, TOMATO SAUCE. Broil mutton chops and pour around them tomato sauce made as follows: Boil a few tomatoes, or one quart can, mash with the back of a spoon and throw in tliree or four cloves, a teaspoonful of minced onion, thicken with a tablespoon- ful of flour and twice as much butter, brown together in a frying pan and rub the sauce through the strainer; season with salt and pepper. 396— MUTTON CHOPS FAMILY DISH. Broil the required number of chops, and cut as many slices of thin buttered toast the same shape; set the chops on end in a dish and a piece of toast alter- nately between them. Garnish with parsley and quartered lemon. 397— ROAST LAMB. The leg of a lamb will cook in a half or three-quarters of an hour, it should be just fairly done through and no more; cook it in a pan by itself so as to obtain its full individual flavor; wash in cold water; dredge with salt, white pepper and flour, this is done by pressing the sides down in the pan of flour and shaking off the surplus; place it with the outside up- wards in the baking pan which is already hot and containing a pint of stock and a teaspoonful of salt; when the bone side is cooked sufl&ciently so the flour will not wash off begin to baste and repeat fre- quently; when almost done baste once with melted fresh butter. 398— LAMB CHOPS, AU PETIT POIS. Broil lamb chops five or six minutes, shake over a little salt and pepper mixed. Serve three in a dish overlapping each other, and pour green peas all around either warmed in butter or cream sauce. 399— BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. Cook in the same way as beef steak either rare or well done and serve with a small spoonful of melted fresh butter, salt and pepper, and sprigs of parsley in the dish. 40(>-LAMB CUTLETS. Cut off two ribs together and take out one bone, leaving all the meat on the other; flatten out with the broad side of a cleaver and scrape the end of the bone; notch the end so it will not curl , and trim off the gristle. If chops are not available you may cut the leg in slices, dredge with salt and pepper. Roll the cutlets in flour, beaten egg and water, and then in cracker crumbs; fry in lard and serve with tomato sauce as directed in recipe No. 395. 40 J -VEAL ROAST. When veal is young and white proceed as directed for lartib. It must always be well done, but taken out as soon as done and not dried out, for if it is overdone it will part into shreads. Serve with brown grav)' made in the same pan after the veal is taken out. 402— ROAST VEAL WITH DRESSING. The real purpose of dressing or stuffing 64 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. is to impart the flavor of the dressing to the meat, and at the same time absorb the gravy. Take the shoulder of veal, cut out the ijone, split the thickest part of the meat to cover the thin parts; spread over a thin layer of the bread dressing No. 320. Roll up and fasten with skewers. It will roast in about two hours. If you have any dressing left it may be baked in a pan separately, but it should be made quite soft with water. 403-ROAST PORK. Pork must always be well done and slowly cooked; an ordinary roast of three and a half to four pounds will usually re- quire two hours, if a leg three hours. Serve with brown sauce under the meat, as well as apple sauce at one side of the dish. 404-PORK CHOPS WITH GRAVY. Fry the pork chops until well done, taking good care that the fat in the pan does not scorch; take these out of the frying pan and lay in the open oven while you make a gravy in the pan with two cups of milk, a teaspoonful of pepper and salt mixed, and enough flour to thicken; strain the sauce in the dish over the chops. 405-FRIED SALT PORK AND MILK GRAVY. Slice the pork thin and steep it in cold water for two or three hours, then dip the slices in flour and fry crisp without scorching; take out the slices of pork, and pour in the pan a pint of milk, salt and pepper to taste and thicken with flour; serve in a side dish. 406— HOW TO ROAST SUCKLING PIG. Cover the pig in the oven with a sheet of thick paper well greased, this being easily removed for basting and again for the last crisping, and it gives you com- mand over the heat of the oven and keep- ing the pig from baking too brown or hard before it is done through. When the pig is small and the skin moist score along the side, make this correspond with the slant of the ribs that it may be carved easily, also sever shoulder and leg joints inside. When the outside is dry put the pig in the oven first on the back then af- ter ten minutes take it out of the oven and score the skin which will then be soft. After being stuffed with onion dressing No. 272, the belly should be sewed up with a packing needle and twine. A whole suckling pig will re- quire two hours of careful roasting. Serve with a brown sauce made in the pan and some of the stuffing, and have apple sauce on the table, 407— APPLE SAUCE FOR MEATS. Peel good, ripe apples, cut them into quarters and put them into a bright sauce pan, add enough water to come up level with the apples and stew with the lid on until done, while they are stewing throw in a little butter; when done mash with the back of a spoon and serve hot. If the apples are very sour a little sugar must be added. je 408— MINT SAUCE. The proper sort of mint not being in steady demand it is very hard to obtain it outside of the city markets. There is no proper substitute for mint. Mint sauce is cold and is a mixture of finely chopped green mint with sugar and vinegar in the following proportions: 1 cupful of white wine vinegar. 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped green mint. 2 tablespoonfuls of white sugar. 409— BOILED HAM. Scrape and carefully shave off the out- side of the ham and saw off the smoky end of the kimckle bone; soak in cold water twelve hours before cooking; boil from 2/^ to 3J^ hours according to size; remove the rind, trim a little and serve with boiled spinach or cold cabbage. 410— BOILED SPINACH. It will take about a peck measure full of raw spinach for every ten persons. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 65 The tender spinach of spring growth will hardly take more than ten minutes boil- ing and will shrink more in cooking than any other vegetable. Pick it over, cut off the thick ends of the stems, wash it well in cold water to free it from grit, and throw it in boiling water in which a little salt and baking soda have been added, a little soda must be used as it will keep the spinach green, too much of it is an injury. When done strain and serve with the ham or bacon. 4 n— ROAST HAM. Proceed as directed in recipe No. 409. Ham will absorb moisture in boiling if put on in cold water and heated slowl)\ Al- tnough ham can be baked like any other meat in a pan of water with drippings and greased paper over, it is uni\ersally recog- nized best to boil first and then brown in the oven. After the ham is out and trimmed, sprinkle a little sugar over the fat and bake about twenty or twenty-five minutes, it will brown a nice golden color. 412— ROAST HAM AU VIN MADERE. Roast the ham as directed in recipe No. 41 r and serve with a sauce made of a pint ot brown gravy, a tablespoonful of walnut catsup and a basting spoonful of sherry. S 413— ROAST HAM, CHAMPAGNE SAUCE. The sharp sauce so commonly served with ham bears no relationship to real champagne. ^ pint of brown gravy. A basting spoonful of vinegar. % cupful of sherry. A heaping teaspoonful of sugar. Mix thoroughly and serve very hot. ^ 414— BACON AND SPINACH. Proceed exactly as you would for boiled ham and spinach, using bacon instead. It can also be .served with boiled cabbage. 4J5— BOILED OX HEART, TOMATO SAUCE. Boil the heart at least three hours in a kettle full of stock or water and add a bunch of soup vegetable, salt and pepper; when done tender, carve in broad slices and ser\'e tomato sauce over it. Wash the inside cavities free from blood before cooking. Also good served with boiled rice and curry sauce. 416— BOILED PORK AND SAUER- KRAUT. Wash the sauerkraut in cold water and boil three hours. After it has boiled two hours throw in slices of pickled pork. Serve a slice on top of each order. 417— BACON AND SAUERKRAUT. Proceed as for recipe No. 416 and boil the bacon separately for half an hour, then throw it in with the sauerkraut. The sauerkraut should be well drained and served hot. 418— THE GERiMAN WAY OF COOK- ING SAUERKRAUT. Wash the sauerkraut in several waters, put it in the kettle with enough water to cover it with half a cup of minced fat salt pork, a minced onion, two large quartered apples to every quart; boil two hours then add a dozen frankforts. 4 J9— LIVER AND BACON. Liver or bacon can either be boiled or fried, this is a matter of individual taste; we will recommend frying as the most convenient. Slice liver as broad as pos- sible but thin. Cut the bacon in thin slices, remove the rind and make two notches where the rind was so it will not curl up. It will fry in five minutes over a hot fire. 420— BROILED CALF'S LIVER. Dip slices of calf's liver in flour, shake a little salt and pepper over and broil them, when about done brush over with 66 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. soft butter on each side and continue broiling until the butter is in a froth. Serve immediately. 421— BROILED CALF'S LIVER WITH TOMATO SAUCE. Proceed as in the preceding recipe and serve with tomato sauce made as directed in No. 395. 422— BOILED CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE. This is a dish of national reputation and you must uphold it by its careful preparation. If the brine is made as di- rected elsewhere and the beef used is good and fresh when put into the brine you have the material to work upon and all that is necessary is to boil in water until tender. Cut a cabbage in quarters, look it over carefully and let stand in cold water an hour and a half or two hours; when ready to cook put it into a pot of boiling water in which you have added a little salt and a pinch of soda; it will cook in about an hour and a quarter. When nearly done drain off the cabbage in a colander, put it back in the kettle and cover up with liquor from the corned beef kettle, if this is really too salty add some water to it; boil fifteen minutes more and serve with a slice of the corned beef on top. 423— OX TONGUE. Ox tongues need three hours to boil tender; when done take up and dip in cold water, it will then peel off easily. Serve with caper, tomato, or sauce pi- quante. 424— TO CURE HAM. For three hams of ordinary size use one pound of fine salt, three ounces of salt- peter crystals pounded fine and one-half cup of molasses. Mix these together thoroughly and rub each ham with the mixture. Pack them skin downward in a tight barrel and let them remain in a moderate temperature for five days; turn them over, sprinkle plentifully with salt and let them remain five days longer; turn them skin downward again and add to the pickle in the barrel enough of brine made of three and a half pounds of salt to every two gallon pail of water, make enough to just cover them; let them remain six weeks, then hang up one week to dry, and smoke them. 425— NEW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER Is looked at with contempt by certain people affecting an unusually delicate palate, but our thoroughbred Yankee, be he the possessor of millions or the poor- est man in the land, does not despise a boiled dinner just as "mother used to make." The directions for boiled dinners are found in cook books written before the independence of the United States, but it appears on Bills of Fare just as fre- quently as ever, and the way unostenta- tious people dive into a generous dish of boiled dinner is a sign of its long exist- ence. Each individual order consists of I slice of boiled corned beef. 1 slice of boiled salt pork. A spoonful of boiled cabbage. 2 small potatoes. 2 slices of a large parsnip. 2 slices of a large carrot. I slice of yellow turnip. A small red beet cut in quarters. Boil the corned beef and salt pork, change the water after it has boiled an hour. Put in the turnips and carrots, boil an hour longer, then put in the po- tatoes and cabbage; cook the beets sepa- rately. Arrange these daintily in an in- dividual platter; use the red beet and a few sprigs of parsley to garnish. Nine times out of ten it will prove a favorite. 426— BROWN GRAVY. The making of good pan gravy and espagnole is one of the hardest things to learn without practical example. It is so essential that everybody who wants to attain perfection should practice making both the pan gravy and espagnole. The grease in the roast pan is not gravy; if you skim off the fat and thicken the PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 67 gravy that is under you will have a brown sauce, but it is not perfect. The right way is to bake the gravy in the pan until the watery part has all evaporated and the fat is like clarified butter and can be poured off to the last drop. The brown coating that sticks to the pan is the real gravy, it should be a light brown color; add a pint of water, boil on the range, thicken with flour, then strain through a fine strainer. This is a good brown gravy of nice color, and with the addition of tomato sauce makes a good substitute for espagnole. Jt 427-ESPAGNOLE. The long tedious method by which French cooks make the espagnole so highly flavored and odorous is not within the limits of private families. It can be made almost as perfect with brown gravy as a basis. To every pint of brown gravy use: I onion. I clove of garlic. I cup of tomatoes. I carrot. I turnip. Scraps of ham. A piece of butter the size of an egg. Mince all the vegetables, mash the to- matoes with the back of the spoon. Fry the minced vegetables in the butter, when they are brown throw in the toma- toes and let simmer till almost frying, then add a quart of stock and the brown gravy, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with browned flour; rub through a medium sieve. 428— ROAST CAPONS. This is often seen on hotel and restau- rant bills of fare, but it is very seldom present in reality. A capon is a sterilized fowl of either sex fed and fattened before it is matured. A caponized chicken will weigh twice as much as an ordinary fowl. It can be roasted in the same time as chicken and have twice the substance. 429— BROWN CELERY SAUCE. Use a pint of chopped celery stalks and a quart of turkey or chicken gravy. The coarse outside stalks may be used if they are carefully scraped to remove the coarse fibres. Boil the celery in salted water, drain and put it in the gravy, let simmer a while. 430— CRANBERRY SAUCE FOR TURKEY. I pint of cranberries. >^ It), of sugar. %, cup of water. Pick the cranberries over carefully, put them in a bright kettle with the water and sugar on top, cook at the side of the range with a tight cover that will keep in the steam, stir last to break the berries. 431— CRANBERRY JELLY. I quart of cranberries. X R). of sugar. I teacupful of water. Cook at the back of the range without stirring or mashing; when done strain and let it get cold. 432-RUMP STEAK WITH MUSH- ROOMS. Take the tender side of a rump of beef sliced about an inch and a half thick, pound it thin, brush it over with butter, broil just long enough to color it; put a half cup of butter in a pan with the liquor from the can of mushrooms, dredge over with salt and pepper. Lay the broiled beef in this sauce with the mushrooms and let it remain in the oven a few minutes to allow the gravj' to blend in the pan. 433— FRIED PARSLEY. Good to garnish meat or fish served without sauce. Frj'^ it in deep lard not hot enough to smoke, if too hot the pars- ley will lose its color, it will cook in one minute, drain on nianila paper, set a mo- ment in the oven with the door open. 434- ROAST HAM, AU PARMESAN. Boil and trim as directed elsewhere in this book. Mix a pint and a half of sifted cracker crumbs with a coffee cupful of 68 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. grated parmesan, switzer or domestic cheese; brown the ham in the oven only light; take it out and press upon it all the bread crumbs and cheese mixture that can be made to stick to it; put it back in the oven and brown all over carefully. Can be served hot but is much preferable cold. 435— BROILED ICIDNEYS. Sheep's kidneys are the best, calves' come next; slice them with the suet on, and trim off the surrounding fat except a small rim; put them in a fine wire broiler, brush over with butter, sprinkle with pepper and salt and broil twelve to fifteen minutes. Serve with a spoonful of melted butter. Kidneys in whatever way they may be cooked are tender only at two periods, that is when they are barely done through and again when they are thoroughly done. 436-PORK SAUSAGE. (The old fashioned country style.) 4 lbs. of lean pork. 2 lbs. of fat pork. 1 oz. of salt. I oz. of mixed brown pepper and pow- dered sage. A coffee cupful of water. Cut the meat in pieces with a knife, sprinkle the spices over and mix all to- gether, then finish with the sausage cutter. 437— PICKLED BROILED TRIPE. Dry the portions of tripe on a towel, dip in flour, shake the pieces so as not to have a surplus of tlie flour fill the cavity. Brush the broiler witli a little fat, lay on the tripe, when thep are partly broiled brush over with butter and when this froths serve with the honeycombed side up; garnish with parsley and quartered lemon. 438— A SUBSTITUTE FOR SPINACH. (Radish Greens.) Radish greens make a good substitute for spinach if they can be obtained when young and tender. Proceed as for spin- ach and boil till the stems are tender. 439— MUSTARD SAUCE. Make butter sauce No. 125, add a pinch of cayenne and a tablespoonful of pre- pared mustard. 440— OYvSTKR STUFFING FOR TUR- KEY, CHICKP:N OR FISH. 2 doz. of oysters. I pint of crackers. 1 pint of finely minced bread crumbs. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. I egg. Do not scald the oysters, but just drain off the liquor and mix with the softened butter, beat in the egg and stir in the crumbs, season with salt and pepper, put in the oysters whole. 44J~BREAD SAUCE, Is made in the pan where turkey or chicken has been roasted. When they are partly done, if no dressing has escaped from the roasting turkey or chicken, mix in the gravy a cupful of the dressing kept for the purpose, take particular care that it does not scorch or burn on the bottom. When the fowls are taken out, set the pan on the upper shelf of the range until the bread crumbs are brown and the water is all dried out, pour off the clear fat, add a quart of stock and boil on the range for a few minutes, look sharp as it is easily scorched, strain by rubbing through a gravy strainer. 442 -A GOOD SUBSTITUTE FOR SAUERKRAUT. Shred some white cabbage.press it down in a jar and cover with a brine made of one part of vinegar and two of water and a basting spoonful of salt; let it stand over night; cook it like sauerkraut with pork or bacon, add a little vinegar when cooked. 443-CORNED TONGUE. Should be boiled three hours; dip in cold water so that it will peel easily; carve it slanting across to make long, thin slices. Serve cold like ham without sauce, but garnished with lettuce leaves. ^ ^ ^ PART II. t^ OS «« ■flcW ENTREES, ^^ (^* t^^ ^* t^* t^?* V^ ti- V" k''^ C^ ^^ %J*f^5* v'* *^* <^^ ^* Vt« S A L A D S AND COLD D I S H E S MAYONNAISE AND OTHER SALAD DRESSINGS DIFFERENT WAYS OF COOKING EGGS H O W T O MAKE . S A N D W I C H E S HORS D'OEUVRESI WHAT THEY ARE Eggs, Salads, Entrees, Etc. 444— FRffiD EGGS. Eggs should be fried clean and hand- somely; a frying pan kept specially for the purpose should be used, and kept rubbed bright. Put in the pan just enough lard so the eggs will not stick to the bot- tom ; break them in a saucer one at a time as there might be bad ones; this is a sim- ple matter which often saves time and money. 445— BOILED EGGS. Eggs will boil soft in three minutes, and hard boiled in eight minutes. Wait until the water boils before you put in the eggs so you will know exactly when they are done. 446— POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS. Have enough water in a sauce pan with a little salt and a spoonful of vinegar; this makes the eggs poach white; let the water boil; put the sauce pan where it will barely simmer; break the eggs care- fully in a dish and drop them in the wa- ter one at a time. Serve well drained in a deep dish with a little melted butter on top, or else lay neatly on trimmed slices of buttered toast. ^ 447- -SCRAMBLED EGGS, COUNTRY STYLE. Put a spoonful of melted butter in a small egg pan, drop in two eggs, sprinkle with pepper and salt and stir around with a fork while they are cooking; take them out while they are still quite soft and slide on a small dish. 448— SCRAMBLED EGGS, HOTEL STYLE. Put a spoonful of melted butter in an egg pan; beat two eggs with a basting spoonful of cream or milk, put these in the pan and stir around while they are cooking; when set sprinkle with salt and white pepper. Serve plain or on buttered toast. 449— BUTTERED EGGS. Beat three eggs with a spoonful of milk; one of melted butter and a pinch of salt; put these in a cup and set in boiling wa- ter on the range and stir until cooked thick enough. Serve like scrambled eggs. 450— SHIRRED EGGS. Butter a small side or vegetable dish, drop in two eggs, sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, set them in the oven on the top shelf, when the whites are set send to the table in the dish they were cooked in. 451— PLAIN OMELET. 3 eggs. I tablespoon ful of milk or cream. Pinch of salt. Beat thoroughly but not light, for if beaten light the omelet will raise a good deal in the pan, but go down again of its own weight before it reaches the table. Put a spoonful of butter or lard in the pan, let it get quite hot without scorch- ing, put in the eggs and when they are set around the edges loosen with a knife and shake so that the omelet will gather at one side of the pan; when the under side is a nice color, roll up, turn the brown side uppermost, and slide on a very hot dish; must be served immediately. 452-PARSLEY OMELET. Mix a teaspoonful of minced parsley 72 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. with the omelet mixture No. 451 and make as directed in the same recipe. 453— ONION OMELET. Mince one medium sized onion and fry in a little butter with a plate over so that the onion will not brown, they will be done in three or four minutes; drain and take them out and add to the omelet mixture No. 451 and fry as directed else- where. 454— HAM OMELET. A heaping basting spoonful of ham cut in small dice; make a plain omelet mixture, when partly set in the pan strew the ham over the surface; fold over and serve on a hot platter. 455— CHEESE OMELET. Made as directed for ham omelet with grated cheese instead of ham. 456-OYSTER OMELET. See recipe No. 211. 457— RUM OMELET. 3 eggs. A basting spoonful of milk. % cup of rum. Powdered sugar. Put the eggs, uiilk and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar in a bowl and beat just enough to mix them. Put a teaspoonful of melted butter in an egg pan, pour in the mixture and fry without burning, slide on a very hot platter, mark the top with a wire made red hot in the iire, dredge the top with powdered sugar, pour the rum around and set it on fire. Serve on another dish of larger size with a spoon to baste the omelet. 458— JELLY ORIELET. Proceed as directed for plain omelet, in- stead of salt use a little powdered sugar. When the omelet is set and brown on the under side put a spoonful of currant jelly in a line in the middle and fold the ome- let over so as to shut it in; slide it on a hot platter and dredge with powdered sugar. 459— TOMATO OMELET. Boil and mash two tomatoes, add a tea- spoonful of melted butter, pepper and salt and stew nearly dry; make an omelet as directed in No. 451, inclose a spoonful of stewed tomatoes. Serve on a hot plat- ter; garnish with a sprig of parsley. 460— KIDNEY OMELET. Make an omelet as directed in No. 451; when it is set and the under side is brown place a spoonful of minced kidneys, pre- pared as directed elsewhere in this book, in a line in the middle of the omelet, roll over so as to inclose it; serve on a hot platter. 461— CHICKEN LIVER OMELET. Stew the livers in brown sauce until they are tender, mince them fine and mix just enough of the brown gravy to make a thick paste; proceed as directed for kid- ney omelet, using the chicken livers in- stead of the kidneys. 462-OMELET A L'ESPAGNOLE. I large tomato. I clove of garlic. I small white onion. A pinch of cayenne. 1 teaspoonful of butter. Salt. Stew these ingredients all together until they are nearly dry, mash with the back of a spoon; place the preparation in the middle of the omelet as directed in other recipes and roll the edge over to inclose it. 463— OMELET SOUFFLE. 2 eggs. Teaspoonful of water. Tablespoonful of powdered sugar. 3 or 4 drops extract of vanilla. Beat the yolks, sugar, vanilla and wa- ter until thick and foamy ; whip the whites until they are firm enough to hold an egg', stir in the j'olk mixture without beating; PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 73 put a spoonful of clarified butter in an egg pan and cook it in the oven. Sprinkle powdered sugar over just before you send it in; it must be served on a dish as hot as the pan in which it was cooked. 464-HAM AND EGGS. Fry slices of ham cut almost as thin as blotting paper, when nicely colored on both sides it is done, notch the edges so it will not curl up. Place the ham on one end of the dish and the eggs in the other partly over the ham; garnish with parsley. 465— EGGS AU FR03VLAGE. For every order use: 2 hard-boiled eggs. 1 basting spoonful of soft butter. Same of grated cheese. Salt and pepper. Slice the eggs when hot, spread the but- ter over, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then the cheese; garnish with small squares of cheese and pitted olives. 466— COLD STUFFED EGGS. lo eggs. Piece of butter the size of a lemon. }4 dozen of anchovies. Watercress or lettuce. Boil the eggs ten minutes, when done drop in cold water, remove the shell, cut them in halves lengthwise, remove the yolks and pound them with the anchovies and butter, return to the whites; serve two halves to each order; garnish with water- cress or lettuce. tut 467— SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH ASPARAGUS. 2 eggs. I tablespoonful of cream. I tablespoonful of butter. 12 asparagus tips. Boil the asparagus in salted water, when done tender, drain, and keep hot in a small sauce pan with a spoonful of but- ter. Scramble the eggs in the usual way, when they are nearly set mix in the as- paragus tips; serve on buttered toast. This recipe is for individual portions. 468— POACHED EGGS, A LA CHINOISE. Boil a half cup of rice as directed else- where in this book, seasoned with salt and pepper; poach two eggs for every order, serve on a spoonful of the prepared rice smoothed down so as to hold the eggs in the center of the dish. 469— BREADED EGGS. Poach the egg almost hard, drain, roll in sifted cracker meal, dip in beaten egg, then in cracker meal again; fry a golden color in hissing hot lard. Serve with green peas stewed in biitter or cream sauce. 470-DEVILED EGGS. Six hard-boiled eggs; cut them in halves lengthwise, pound the yolks with an equal amount of potted ham, a pinch of pepper, a tablespoonful of prepared mustard, a basting spoonful of butter, and the juice of half a lemon; put back into the whites, heaping the surplus on top. Serve with salad, or on buttered toast, two halves to each order. 47J— EGGS SCRAMBLED WITH TOMATOES. Peel a large tomato, remove all the seeds, stew it thick with a little butter; beat two eggs with a teaspoonful of cream, pour this in the pan with the tomato; put in a pinch of salt, stir slowly till set. 472— POACHED EGGS IN GRAVY. Have some nice rich brown gravy sea- soned with lemon juice; serve a spoonful very hot with a poached egg and pickled nasturtium strewed over. 473— SHRIMP OMELET. Proceed as directed for plain omelet. Warm a heaping basting spoonful of canned shrimp in a little butter; when the omelet is set put the shrimp in a line in the middle, fold over, brown, and set on a hot platter with the brown side up. 74 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 474— ARTICHOKES AND GRAVY. Clean the artichokes and let them lay in ice water a couple of hours; cut them in two and remove the core; put a tea- spoonful of salt and a quarter teaspoonful of baking soda in a saucepan of boiling water; throw in the artichokes and boil half an hour; drain and serve with brown or cream gravy. 475— STUFFED ONIONS. % doz. large white onions, A cupful of bread crumbs and sausage meat mixed. I egg. yi pint of brown gravy. Seasoning. Boil the onions in water ten minutes, drain them and push out about half of the insides, chop these fine and mix them with the bread crumbs and sausage mix- ture; add the egg, pepper and salt and stuff the onion with it, heap it a little on top if yoxi have stuffing to spare; place them in a pan with half a pint of brown gravy and steam forty-five minutes. They may al.so be baked, but they will not cook so nice. 476— ANTELOPE STEAK SAUTE. Saute is the way commonly known as frying in butter or sweet drippings. Sea- son the antelope steak with salt and pep- per and fry. Add a little water when they are done so as to make a dark color- ed gravy to be poured around in the dish. Serve with potatoes No. 151. 477-BACK BONE STEW, EGG DUMPLING. A pork backbone sawed oiT between the two rib roasts. % teaspoonful of sage. 1 onion. yi teaspoonful oi minced red pepper. A cup of milk. 2 eggs. 2 cups of ilour for iluinpliiigs. Flour thickening. Chop the back bone in pieces and wash in cold water to get rid of any splinters; boil about two hours in just enough wa- ter to cover; put in the seasoning; when boiled down add milk and thicken to the consistency of cream. To make the dumplings mix the raw eggs with an equal amount of ice water, add a little salt and stir in flour enough to make dough, knead on the table and roll out as thin as the thickness of a silver knife and cut in narrow ribbons, divide in suit- able lengths, drop in a sauce pan of boil- ing water, cook twelve minutes. Dip the stew up in a deep dish and place the dumplings on top. They are nicer and neater if cooked separately in this way, than if they were mixed with the stew. 478— BEEF, A LA BRETONE. The toughest and coarsest pieces of lean beef can be made tender and highly flavored in this way. Take a solid piece of lean beef that is not tender enough to cut into steaks and roasts, that will weigh from three to four pounds. ^ lbs. of fat salt pork. I cupful of minced onion. 1 clove of garlic. 2 bay leaves. Yz pint of common red wine. I pint of ale. I teaspoonful of white pepper. Salt and a pinch of cayenne. Mixed spices in a plate to roll in the strips of salt pork. Soup stock sufficient to cover the meat. Roll the strips of salt pork in the spices, insert them in the beef by means of a larding needle; put the scraps remaining in a deep sauce pan with the other arti- cles except the stock; warm these and put tlie beef on top; put the lid on and simmer until nearly done, then put in enough stock to come up level with the meat, cover tightly and keep gently boil- ing at the back of the range from four to five hours, turning it over every hour. When the beef is tlioroughly tender take it up, strain the liquid that remains, skim oflf the superfluous fat and reduce by boiling to the richness of gravy ; cut the meat crosswise of the larding; serve with a spoonful of the gravy. If proper- ly cooked, beef a la Breton e makes a de- licious cold dish. If you intend to serve it cold do not PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 75 reduce the liquid remaining in the kettle to more than jelly, cool this in a square dish and serve in small cubes all around the slices of meat with sprigs of parsley for garnishing. 479— BREADED CALF'S HEAD, TAR- TARE SAUCE. The calf's head must be scalded and scraped, the butchers generally do this. A head that is skinned is of no use what- ever. Saw it in two, beginning at the crown and take out the brains and tongue, steep in a pan of ice water two hours and drop it in a kettle of boiling water and cook until the skin is tender enough to be cut with the point of a spoon, take out and set away to cool, when perfectly cold take out the bones and cut the meat in pieces of suitable size for individual or- ders; dredge with salt and pepper, roll in flour, dip in egg, then in cracker meal and fry in hot fat. It is necessary to be particular when rolling the pieces in flour to coat them well. If not properly fried and well drained it will look like boiled fat. Serve with tartare or tomato sauce. Reserve the brains and tongue for en- trees described elsewhere is this book. 480— CALVES' BRAINS FRIED WITH OLIVES. Take two sets of brains and drop them in a sauce pan of boiling water in which there is added a teaspoonful of salt and a basting spoonful of vinegar, simmer twenty minutes, pour off in a colander and let drain. When the brains are cold remove all the dark skin and dark streaks; cut each half in two, lay them on a table, dredge with salt and pepper, roll both sides in flour. Set a baking pan on the top of the stove with a half cup of melted butter and a half cup of drippings, lay the brains in and brown them on both sides. Serve them hot with a little of the melted butter from the pan, with leaves and quartered lemons for garnish- ing. 481— BLANQUETTE OF LAMB. Cook the breast of lamb whole by boil- ing in seasoned stock, then press it be- tween two pans until cold and after that cut in pieces suitable for individual por- tions. Boil the stock the meat was cook- ed in until it is very rich, strain through a fine sieve, boil again and thicken it, then thin down with cream, making a white sauce of it. Boil some potatoes, when cold cut them in cubes, warm these in butter, sprinkle with chopped parsley and keep ready to garnish the dish. Make the pieces of lamb hot again in some seasoned broth; dish out one piece, cover with a spoonful of the sauce and some of the potatoes around. 482— BRAISED TENDERLOIN OF BEEF. Cut a half pound of fat salt pork into strips about the size of a common pencil and lard a tenderloin of beef with them; draw through the beef from one side to the other with a large larding needle in such a direction that the slices when cut will show the spots of fat all through. Trim the protruding ends of the salt pork a uniform length, put the scraps in a deep sauce pan, the tenderloin on top with 1 onion. 2 cloves. ^ a small turnip. 2 stalks of celery. 1 small carrot. A piece of bay leaf. 2 cups of stock. Cover with a buttered paper, put the lid over the paper and simmer at the side of the range about an hour and a half, adding more stock if neces.sary to prevent the contents from burning; take out the tenderloin and bake it in the oven to a nice brown color. Strain the contents of the sauce pan, skim of the fat, boil down to a glaze and pour over the slices of ten- derloin as they are dished. 483— CHIPPED BEEF IN BUTTER. yi pound of dried beef shaved very thin, put )4 cup of butter in the pan to cover the bottom, when it is all melted add the chipped beef, dredge with pep- per and stir until it is hot. Serve hot on thin slices of dry toast in individual dishes. 76 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 484 -SQUAB PIE. % dozen of squabs, or young pigeons. % pound of butter. 3 cups of stock or water. Flour tbickening. Pepper and salt. Paste to cover. Draw and clean tborougblj', cut tlieni in balves by splitting down the back first and cutting tbrougli the breast- bone; flat- ten with the broad side of the cleaver; dredge with salt and pepper, roll both sides in flour, fry slightly in the butter; when they have acquired a light brown on both sides put in the pan three cupfuls of broth or Avater and let them simmer on the side of the stove until tender. If the flour in which the birds have been rolled has not thickened sufliciently, use a little browned flour and season to taste; pour in an earthen baking dish and cover with a sheet of paste made as directed in recipe No. -^05. «** 485— FRICASSEE OF VEAL AND MUSHROOMS. 2 pounds of brisket of veal. I slice of salt pork. I onion. I small blade of mace. I lemon. 1 can of mushrooms. 4 yolks of eggs. Butter and flour. Salt and pepper. Wash the veal and boil it about half an hour, then take it up and when cooled divide it across the rib in portions suita- ble to serve three to an order. Put in just enough stock to cover the pieces of veal; put in the slices of salt pork, the onion, mace, salt and pepper then simmer about an hour. When the meat is done thicken with flour, and when that has boiled up beat in the yolks mixed with a little milk. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon; make the mushrooms hot in the frA-ing pan with a little butter; dish the veal with a spoonfid of the sauce poured over and a spoonful of mushrooms; garnish with small squares of pufl paste baked in the oven. •J* 486— CALF'S LIVER, A LA ROBERTS. 2 pounds of calf's liver. Yz pound of fat bacon. Mixed spices. 1 quart of sliced onions. Cut the bacon in strips the size of a common pencil, roil them in the mixed spices, draw them through the liver with a larding needle in such a direction that they will be sliced across when the liver is served. Put the remaining slices of bacon in a sauce pan with the liver on top, one-half pint of stock and one-fourth cup of sherry; cook with the steam shut in. When the liquid has boiled away and the bacon fries, turn the liver over to get light brown on both sides, take out and pour the grease out of the sauce pan and make thickened gravy out of what remains in the sauce pan with a pint of stock added; season to taste. Slice the onions all of one thickness and fry them light yellow, in a pau of hot lard as di- rected elsewhere for frizzled onions; they will take only two minutes to cook; drain them carefully and use for garnishing; serve a slice of the larded liver with a spoonful of the gravy on top. 487-ESCALOPES DE BOEUF EN DEMI GLACE. 2 pounds of small pieces of lean beef, either the ends of the tenderloin or tips of sirloin too small to be used as steak. 3 pints of soup stock. Vz teaspoonfui of black pepper. Tablespoonful of salt. New potatoes and cauliflower. Cut the pieces of meat in even sizes like fingers, put them on the range in cold stock and boil two hours; there should be just enough stock to cover the meat, then add the salt and pepper, and boil slowly. All you have to do is to let the meat boil dow n to a rich gravy, rich enough so that it stays on the pieces of meat and makes them shiny, they are then glazed, (glace) Dish them up with small new boiled po- tatoes or cauliflower boiled and sauted in butter, with chopped parsley sprinkled over. .*« 48S-BLANQUETTE OF SWEET- BREADS AND OYSTERS. 2 calves' sweetbreads. I dozen of oysters. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 77 A cupful of cream sauce. Juice of half a lemon. Salt, cayenne and mashed potatoes. Boil the sweetbread until tender in wa- ter, season with salt, pepper and vinegar; take them up and cut in squares. Put the oysters in a deep strainer and dip in the sweetbread liquor one minute to shrink them, turn on a plate and cut them in halves, mix these with the sweetbreads with a squeeze of lemon and a dust of cayenne, cover with the cream sauce just hot from the pan. Serve little cones of mashed potatoes on the dish witli the blanquette in the middle. 489-PIG'S HEAD, A LA RUSSE. Nothing bi;t the head of a small porker will give satisfaction in making this en- tree. Saw it in two, cut off the ears and trim all the discolored parts carefully, steep in cold water for two hours and boil in salted water an hour and a half or two hours, or until the bones can be tak- en out easily; take it out and when cool enough remove the bones. Make a sauce of 2 cups of soup stock. I chopped onion. 1 green pickle chopped. A pod of red pepper. 2 tablespoonfuls of dry mustard. Stew the onion in the stock twenty minutes; mix the mustard in. a little wa- ter and stir it up with the contents of the sauce pan; add salt to taste; put in the chopped pickle and red pepper; then the pig's head. Serve a slice with a spoonful of the sauce. 490-CALVES' BRAIN PATTIES. 2 sets of brains. Butter the size of an egg. Salt and pepper. Puflf paste. Eggs. Melt the butter in a good sized fr)nug pan, dredge the brain with salt and pep- per, and scramble the same waj- as for eggs; they will be cooked sufficiently in twelve minutes. Roll out the puflf paste and make lo patty cases with lids; fill these with the preparation. Decorate the dish with hard boiled eggs and parsley. 491— POTTED PIGEONS. 6 pigeons. }4 pound of sausage meat. X pound of butter, A cupful of stock. I teaspoonful of vinegar. Pepper, salt and allspice. I cup of currant jelly. Flour. Clean the pigeons, split in halves down the back and breast, wipe dry and dredge with pepper, salt and allspice. Place a spoonful of sausage meat inside and press the two halves together. Butter the bot- tom of an earthen jar; lay the pigeons closely pressed; put in the cup of broth and the vinegar, cover the top with a flour and water paste as directed for Co- lonial venison; set the jar in a pan of wa- ter and bake in the oven three and a half hours. Mix the currant jelly with its equal volume of brown gravy and dish the birds out of the jar vdthout displacing the stuffing. If the pigeons are not young it may be necessary cook longer, for they must be tender. 492— SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. I pound of sweetbreads. A cup of fresh mushrooms or a can of button mushrooms. X lb. of butter. X tt) of flour. }4 cup of cream. }4 cup of chicken broth or light stock. )4 a lemon. Eggs and cracker meal. Steep the sweetbreads in ice-water for an hour, and boil in salted water for fifteen minntes if they are calves' sweetbread, if beef, may boil an hour; cool them, trim all discolored portions and cut them and the mushrooms in dice; season with salt and pepper and lemon juice, then make a t hick cream sauce of the broth, butter, flour and cream ; mix these with the sweet- breads and mushrooms and spread the mixture in a pan and set on ice until very cold; cut in pieces, roll in flour and dip in beaten egg and cracker meal, fry in hissing hot lard ; serve with green peas. 78 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 493— RICE CROQUETTES. I4 R). of rice. yi pint each of milk and water. A tablespoonful or sugar. 2 yolks of eggs. Pinch of salt. Wash and boil the rice in the water with the steam shut in, add the milk when it is half cooked, let it simmer on the back of the range until it is dry, mash will be left leaning backward and the other forward on the surface; insert six or more in an even row across, insert anoth- er row so alternating that the ends will fall between those of the first row, keep on until the tenderloin is too thin to lard; cut off the thinnest part, cover over with the sheet of fat; make the pan hot in the oven (the pan should be a long, narrow one made for the purpose) ■\^dth a table- with the back of the spoon and mix in spoonful of salt, a cupful of stock and a the other ingredients, and a flavoring of half cup of melted butter; throw m a nutmeg- when cold make up in rolls with slice of turnip, a carrot, one onion and a floured hands; fry in deep lard; serve stalk of celery; bake half an hour then take cff the sheet of fat; baste thetender- with the following sauce : 494— SAUCE DOREE. '/2 cup of sugar. I tablespoonful of cornstarch. 1 pint of water. A piece of butter the size of an egg. 2 yolks of eggs. Nutmeg. Break the nutmeg in pieces and boil it loin with the contents of the pan and al- low it to bake fifteen minutes more so that the larding will have a nice, hand- some color. Boil the remains in the pan to a glaze, pour off the clear grease, add two cups of stock, and the liquor from the can of mushrooms; boil and thicken with browned flour, skim again and add a basting spoonful of sherry. Carve in the water; mix the cornstarch and | small slices, lay these well up to one end sugar dry and stir them in, when cooked stir in the butter; break the yolks, mix w^th a spoonful of the sauce and add them ; take the sauce from the fire im- mediately and do not allow it to boil after the yolks are in; strain and add a tablespoonful of brandy and a teaspoon- ful of vanilla. 495 -TENDERLOIN OF BEEF LARD- ED WITH MUSHROOMS. The fat on the tenderloin strip nmst be shaved down so there will be only a covering of about half an inch thick left on the meat, then raise the edge of the fat, separate it from the tenderloin and lay it over without completely tearing it from the edge so tiiat it will be ready to cover when the larding is done; the skin of the upper surface must be scored across to prevent the tenderloin from drawing up of the individual dish with a spoonful of sauce in the other end and a border of mushrooms warmed in the sauce. 496— SWEETBREADS, AU PETIT POIS. ( Green Peas. ) 4 large calves' sweetbreads. Yz lb. of firm salt pork. 3 coffeecupf uls of light stock or chicken broth. A basting spoonful of butter. I can of imported peas. Mashed potatoes. The sweetbreads must be large enough to split in two; steep them in cold water about half an hour and boil in the stock to which you have added a spoonful of vine- gar and a little salt;drain out and cool them pressed between two pans. Set the chick- en broth or light stock on the range and boil it down to half the quantity. Cut in the oven. Cut one-half pound of the pork in very fine strips; lard the fat salt pork in strips the size of a pencil, cut one end slightly tapering to facilitate the larding. Roll these in white pepper and salt, insert a strip in the end of the larding needle and draw it through the top part of the meat, pinch it up for the purpose; one end of each strip so inserted sweetbreads in regular order, and draw- ing the strips through, trim to an even shape; melt a little butter in a saucepan so as to just grease the bottom and lay in the sweetbreads with what remains of the salt pork, a piece of onion, a slice of turnip, a stalk of celery, a few whole PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 79 peppers and half the stock; let the con- tents of the kettle simmer for half an hour, take them up into another dish and add the remaining stock to the gravy; strain this in a sauce pan and boil down to a glaze. Serve with potatoes Duchess and green peas. 497— CURRIED TRIPE, A L'lTAL- lENNE. yi lb. of fresh boiled tripe. 4 basting spoonfuls of brown gravy. I onion. 3 hard boiled eggs. I teaspoonful of curry powder. 5 slices of bread. Seasoning. Chop the onions fine and fry them light brown in a spoonful of butter, sprinkle the currj' powder over, cut the tripe in strips like macaroni and about two inches long, put it in the pan and shake over the fire until it is coated with the curry sauce, season with black pep- per and cayenne mixed; add the brown gravy; cut the slices of bread very thin, trim them , dip one side in drippings and set on the top shelf of the range. Dish a spoonful of the tripe on the toasted bread with quarters of hard boiled egg cut lengthwise placed at each end. 498— BAKED CELERY AND CHEESE. I quart of celery. I cupful of grated cheese. A piece of butter the size of a lemon. I cupful of brown gravy. Pepper, salt and cracker meal. Cut the celery in pieces an inch long, split the coarse pieces lengthwise and boil fifteen minutes in salted water, drain and put them in an earthen baking dish, sprinkle in the cheese and the pepper, pour in the brown gravy and sift the cracker crumbs over the top, bake in a hot oven about twenty minutes; serve on fancy shapes of toast. 499- STEAMED CORN CUSTARD. I can of corn. A piece of butter the size of a lemon. % teaspoonful of salt. % teaspoonful pepper. 3 eggs. I cup of milk. Turn the can of corn into a pan and mash it with the back of a spoon, stir in the melted butter, beat the eggs in the milk and mix !this in the corn; may be steamed or baked. 500— BEEF STEW. I lb. of beef. 5 large sized potatoes. I onion. The meat must not be too lean, a piece of flank just off the end of a porterhouse is certainly the choicest to stew; cut the beef in pieces of even size, put in just enough stock or water to cover it and let boil slowly for two hours, put in the minced onion and the potatoes cut in halves; cook until they are done; season to taste and thicken slightly with flour, .^ 501— COTELETTES D'AGNEAU AU LEGUMES. ID lamb chops. I peck of cooked .spinach, or any other kind of greens. 20 new potatoes. I small cauliflower. % cup of butter. Some white sauce. Scrape the end of the chop bones, flat- ten them a little with the broad side of the cleaver and notch the ends so they will not curl up; dredge with salt and pepper; dip each chop in melted butter, the butter must be quite warm so that too much will not adhere to them, lay the chops in a small baking dish. Boil the cauliflower and new potatoes in salted water, when done drain off and keep ready to garnish ,the dish. Boil the spinach or other greens until they are al- most done, drain in a sieve and press gently to get all the water out of it, then rub through a strainer with a little sauce mixed in it and when you have obtained a green pulp mix this with an equal quan- tity of butter sauce made as directed in No. 125. Cook the chops in the oven, pour the green sauce in a dish, lay the chops on top with the vegetables around. 8o PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 502— CALF'S HEAD EM OMELET. Split the head, beginning at the crown, remove tJde brain and tongue. Wash the head carefully and boil it in salted water until it is tender enough to pull out the bones; dredge with salt and pepper; sprinkle with the juice of a large lemon and fry each half skin downward in a lit- tle butter. Boil the brains in salted wa- ter for ten minutes, drain and cool, re- move all the skin and discolored portions; mash these and beat it up with ten eggs and a half cup of soup stock, salt and pepper; pour these in a large frying pan made hot in the oven, with a basting spoonful of butter in it, shake on the hot stove and when set fold over and bake on the bottom of the oven until light brown; turn the brown side up on a very hot family sized platter. Cut the fried head in slices, place it all around the omelet and finish garnishing with quarters of lemon and sprigs of parsley. 503— CELERY A LA CREME. Cut the celery in pieces the size of your finger, split the broad strips so as to make them of even size, tie them in bunches of twelve pieces, boil in salted water thirty- five minutes, then lay them in a granite baking pan and remove the twine. Make cream sauce as directed in No. 140, pour it over the celery, place on the top shelf of the oven until it gets a yellow color without cooking very much. Serve on individual platters, a bunch to each order. 504— MOCK OYSTERS. 1 cupful of canned or fresh corn. A basting spoonful of butter. A basting spoonful of flour. ^ teaspoonful of salt. ^ teaspoonful of white pepper. 2 eggs. Mash the corn, mix in all the other in- gredients and beat hard for five minutes, drop with the end of a spoon to imitate the shape of oysters fried in batter, fry light brown on both sides. Serve with maple syrup. 505— HULLED CORN. Make a weak solution of concentrated lye, steep the corn in this for two days then wash twice in cold water and boil for four hours and a half; serve in bowls with milk. 506— CURRY OF VEAL, A V INDIENNE. I lb. of breast or flank of veal. I large minced onion. I basting spoonful of grated cocoanut. I tablespoonful of curry powder. 1 tablespoonful of flour. 2 cups of stock. Salt and cayenne. Juice of a lemon. 2 cups of boiled rice. Cut the meat in small pieces the size of a walnut, fry them in a pan with a little butter and the onion; when they have ac- quired a nice brown color put in the curry powder, cocoanut and flour, stir until all are well mixed, then add the broth and let it stew slowly for an hour; add th*; lemon juice, cayenne and salt, skim off the fat, and serve with a border of rice cooked as directed elsewhere in this book. 507-APPLE FRITTERS. 4 large sized apples, use the easy cook- ing kind; if you cannot get these do not attempt to make this kind of apple fritters. Yz cupful of milk. I cup of flour. I tablespoonful of melted butter. 1 tablespoonful of syrup. An even spoonful of baking powder. Peel the apples and cut in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, throw away only the end pieces; mix up all the other ingredients together and beat briskly for a few minutes, dip in the apple slices with a fork, see that they are well coated, and drop in a pan of hot lard, they will fry in about eight minutes, and must be of a nice golden color. Break off the rough fragments and serve with powdered sugar or a sweet pudding sauce. ^ 508— CREAM A pint of milk. 3 ozs. of sugar. FRITTERS. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 8i 3 ozs. of mixed cornstarch and flour. 2 yolks of eggs. A basting spoonful of butter. Vanilla or lemon flavoring. Boil the milk with the butter and sugar in it, mix the cornstarch and flour with a little of the milk, stir it in the milk when it boils, whip briskly for a few minutes, beat in the yolks of eggs, take off imme- diately and flavor with the lemon or vanilla, put it to cool in a buttered pan, when perfectly cold cut in slices or shapes with a cutter, roll them in beaten eggs then in cracker meal, fry in hot lard. Serve with transparent or wine sauce. (See index for recipe.) 50^— ORANGE FRITTERS. Divide the orange in sections, remove the white pith and seeds, drop them in a pan of hot, thick syrup, take them out with a fork and roll them in a pan of flour, dip in fritter batter as directed in No. 507 and fry in lard. Serve with wine sauce. 510— CLOCHE FRITTERS. yi pint of water. 2 ozs. of good butter. X R>. of flour. 3 eggs. Boil the water and butter together, put in the flour all at once and stir over the fire until you have a firm paste, take off and let stand until it is just below the boiling point, then beat in the eggs one at a time; if the eggs are beaten in when the mixture is too cool it will not rise. The more you beat the mixture in the pan with the back of the spoon the more the fritters will rise. .^ 511— BREAD FRITTERS, yi pint of water. 6 ozs. of white bread crumbs. A tablespoonful of melted butter. 3 eggs. Boil the water, put in the bread crumbs and stir over the fire until you have a smooth paste and then add the butter; take the paste from the fire and let it cool enough so it will not cook the eggs as you beat them in. The quality of this fritter depends a good deal on the care you exercise in selecting good bread crumbs. Serve with maple syrup or some other sauce. 5 J2— POTATO PUFFS. yi ft. of raw potatoes. A heaping tablespoonful of flour; the same of cream and sherry. 3 eggs. A teaspoonful of lemon juice. A grating of nutmeg. Boil the potatoes well done in the usual way, drain and mash through a colander, while they are still warm, mix in all the other ingredients except the flour; set the bowl which contains the mixture in a pan of ice-water and beat it ten minutes, it will then have the appearance of a sponge cake batter; beat in the flour a little at a time, fry small portions the size of a wal- nut in hot lard; drain carefully. Serve with brandy sauce. 513— PEACH FRITTERS. Peal and cut ripe peaches in halves; make a batter the same as directed in No. 507 and proceed as directed in said recipe. Serve with transparent or wine sauce. 514— PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. 1 can of sliced pineapples. 2 cupfuls of flour. A teacupful of ale. A basting spoonful of powdered sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Dissolve the powdered sugar in the ale, then mix all the ingredients together; let the batter stand for three-fourths of an hour and it will then be made light by the ale; drain a can of pineapples, dip each slice in the batter and fry in hot lard. Serve with orange, curacoa, or maraschino sauce. 515— SPANISH FRITTERS. % pint of water. 3 ozs. of butter. A basting spoonful of sugar. 5 ozs. of flour. 82 PRACTlCAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 3 or 4 eggs according to size. A teaspoonful of extract of vanilla. Boil the water with the butter and sugar in it, put in the flour and make a fritter paste as directed for fritters in No. 510, add the vanilla with the last egg; fry slowly in lard as it will take a long time to cook; drain in a colander, dredge with powdered sugar. It may be served with rum sauce or whipped cream. 5J6-SHELL FRITTERS. yi pint of water. X tb. of flour. 3 eggs. A pinch of salt. Boil the water with the salt in, add the flour all at once and stir to a firm smooth paste, cool it just below the boiling point and beat in the eggs one at a time with the back of the spoon on the side of the pan, fry in hot lard; when done strain in a colander. Serve with honey, maple syrup or any sweet sauce. 517— PLAIN FRITTERS. y-2, pint of water. A basting spoonful of melted butter. ^ lb. of flour. A tablespoonful of sugar. Boil the water, sugar and butter to- gether, then add the flour all at once and cook to a stiff paste, take it from the fire and add a basting spoonful of flour, one- fourth cup of water, three eggs, a tea- spoonful of baking powder and flavoring of nutmeg or lemon; fry spoonfuls in a sauce pan of hot lard and serve with wine or transparent sauce. 518— SALADS. The difficulty in salad making lies in the preparation of the dressings; there are several kinds mentioned in this book, all are good, try them and see which you like best. Of course the most difficult is mayonnaise, but if care is exercised in se- curing the finest and freshest material and the directions are followed you will produce a dressing most delicious and wholesome, which is considered hy epi- cures as the boss of them all. 5J9-MAYONNAISE. The following quantities will make enough mayonnaise for about twenty orders. Mayonnaise will keep nicely for a week or more if kept in a cold place or even on ice. 3 raw yolks of eggs. I pint of olive oil. Yz pint of lemon juice or vinegar. 1 teaspoonful of salt. A pinch of cayenne. % teaspoonfvil of drj' mustard. Drop the yolks in an earthen mixing bowl, put in the mustard, a pinch of cay- enne and a tablespoonful of oil, stir with a wire whisk or wooden spoon; when mixed up to a smooth paste commence adding the oil a few drops at a time ; when the oil is half in add the salt and finish by adding oil and vinegar alternately by spoonfuls. Lemon juice is preferable to vinegar, or again it may be used in equal parts. The bowl and whisk and all the ingredients should be cold. When the mayonnaise is read}- it has the appearance of yellow whipped cream too thick to run. It can be spread over a pile or shape of salad with a knife as you would icing over a cake. For decorating purposes it may be colored green with spinach juice, or red with lobster coral. 520— THIN MAYONNAISE. Reduce the thick mayonnaise to the consistency^ of cream by adding a little more vinegar and whipped cream; it can also be reduced with vinegar and water. Is used with lobsters, crabs and other shell fish, on certain kinds of vegetables; mixed with chopped onions and pickle makes good Tartare sauce. 52I-FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 3 hard boiled eggs, the j-olks onh' needed. 2 raw yolks. % cupful of fresh butter. %. cupful of olive oil. I cup of Tarragon vinegar. I teaspoonful of salt. I tablespoonful of prepared mustard. White pepper. Pound the hard boiled volks smooth in PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 83 a bowl wi^h the softened butter; add the salt, mustard and pepper, then beat in the oil gradually, alternating with the vine- gar as directed for mayonnaise, set the bowl in ice- water; can be reduced with lemon juice, cream or vinegar. 522— GREEN MAYONNAISE FOR OYS- TER SALADS OR ORNA- MENTATION. Pick a handful of green celery tops, throw these in boiling water, let them re- main three or four minutes; they will acquire an inten.se green color, drain these, cut them up with a knife and pound them through a sieve. Use the paste to color and flavor the mayonnaise made as directed in No. 519. 523— SALAD CREAM. A cupful of good vinegar; as much of water. % K). of butter. The yolks of a dozen eggs. A tablespoonful of prepared mustard. Salt and ca3'enne. / Boil the vinegar, butter, salt water and mustard all together in a bright sauce pan; beat the yolks with their volume of the boiling liquid and stir them in, let come almost to a boil again and take oflf immediately from the range; this must be cooked to the right point as it will act like custard if boiled too much and curdle, and again will not have the proper con- sistency if not cooked enough. 524— GERMAN SALAD DRESSING. % cupful of very fresh butter. % cupful of olive oil . yi cup of vinegar. I cup of stock. I tablespoonful of flour. Cream, salt and white pepper. Mix the flour and butter together in a sauce pan as for making a sauce, pour in the oil and then the stock gradually, stir until all are thick and smooth, then add vinegar, salt and pepper and when partly cooled put in the cream ; season and set on ice. The knack in making this dress- ing is to have the .stock well straiii'^il, seasoned and strong enough to set in jelly when cold. 525— FLAVORED VINEGARS. The finishing touch imparted to salad3 and the individuality of tastes for which certain hotel chefs are so well known lies in the secret of flavoring the vinegar. A touch of garlic will produce a marvelous change. Terragon, piment, nasturtium and other popular and easily compounded vinegars will be found in the following recipes. Practice with these and you will have surprising results. 526— GARLIC VINEGAR. I head of garlic, the Italian preferred. yi oz. of bruised red peppers. A tablespoonful of walnut catsup. I tablespoonful of .salt. I pint of vinegar. Put all the contents together in a fruit- jar or any bottle having a -wdde opening; it will have its full flavor in two days. 527— TARRAGON VINEGAR. Tarragon is an aromatic herb which can be procured at any market. Use four ozs. of green tarragon leaves to everj' pint of vinegar, let stand two weeks in a glass jar in the cellar, then filter through a flannel; do not attempt to rush the fil- tering, but let it drip slowly, bottle and seal carefully; will be at its best in a month. .^ 528— NASTURTIUM VINEGAR. Nasturtium is a well known garden flower. The seeds are good for pickling. When green the seeds may be used as a substitute for capers to garnish or deco- rate salads. Put clean picked nasturtium seeds in fruit jars, put in enough vinegar to cover them, seal and let remain at least two weeks before using; they will keep for an indefinite length of time. 529— PIMENTO VINEGAR. Use two common sized green peppers to every quart of vinegar. Good to serve with clams on the shell ar.d raw oyster . PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 530-CELERY VINEGAR. 1 quart of vinegar. All the root and white parts of a large healthy head of celerj'. Mince the celery very fine and put into a stone jar; boil the vinegar and pour it on top, add a teaspoonful of salt, let it stand twenty-four hours, strain and bottle. 531— CAPER VINEGAR. Mix the vinegar from a bottle of French capers with a pint of vinegar, bottle it and let it stand a few days to blend. 532— RUBY VINEGAR. Boil two good sized dark red beets; do not wash them or trim off the end root or head in any way that might let the red juice escape; when done slice them in a quart of vinegar; let stand in a covered fruit jar two or three days; strain and boil down to two-thirds so that the vine- gar will be strong enough to keep; bottle and keep ready for use. 533— FRENCH AROMATIC VINEGAR. J4 pint of green tarragon leaves. 2 ozs. of mustard seeds. 3 cloves of Italian garlic. 3 white onions. I leaf laurel. 1 blade of mace. 2 ozs. elder-blossoms. 10 cloves. 1 oz. of whole pepper. ^ gallon of white wine vinegar. Put all the ingredients together in a jug, cork tightly and let stand four weeks, then strain and bottle ready for use. 534— COLD SLAW. 2 cups of chopped cabbage. I cup of chopped apple. I cup of ordinary vinegar, or an aro- matic vinegar selected from your assort- ment. A tablespoonful of white sugar. Salt and pepper. Capers or nasturtium seeds. Chop the apples and cabbage separate- ly, then mix altogether, serv-e in a salad bowl with capers or nasturtium seeds strewed over. 535— ENDIVE SALAD. Sometimes called chicory; is used as lettuce for salads, but the white leaves only are good. Proceed as directed for lettuce salads; an improvement is to rub the salad bowl with a clove of garlic. .^ 536— FISH SALAD. Any kind of fish of a flaky nature, such as salmon, halibut, red snapper, fresh cod, pike, etc., can be made into salads the same ways as directed for lobsters, an chovies, and small sardines; mix a little Worcestershire sauce with the dressing, garnish with parsley. 537— CHICKEN SALAD. Boil one chicken tender, remove all the bones and cut in small dice; add an equal amount of celery cut into small pieces, then add a cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing to this and mix thorough- ly. Put on a cold platter or salad bowl and put in a cool place until serving time. When serving, pour a thin layer of mayonnaise over the top, garnish edge of platter with celery tops, lettuce leaves or parsley, a few thin slices of lemon may be laid over the top if desired, take a hard-boiled egg, cut into quarters length- wise and arrange on edge of platter, giv- ing this salad a pleasant effect; for more elaborate decoration see part 5 of this book. 538— VEAL SALAD. Take a piece of cold roast veal, trim the dark outside, cut into small dice, add an equal amount of chopped celery, to this add a little salt, vinegar and pepper, and pour in enough of the mayonnaise or other salad dressing, to taste. Mix thoroughly together, put on a cold dish, and garnish same as chicken salad when ready to serve. 539-PORK SALAD. Take the lean meat from a cold roast of pork, trim, cut into moderately fine PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 85 pieces; add to this about half the amount of celery, chopped up fine, and mix in a half cupful of mayonnaise, or other salad dressing. Put on a cold platter, with a thin layer of dressing over the top, gar- nish and serve. 540— EMERGENCY SALAD. Take any cold meat or fowl left over from dinner, and chop up the lean meats moderately fine, add chopped celery, let- tuce or cabbage to half the amount of meat, and add a liberal amount of may- onnaise or other salad dressing; garnish with hard boiled eggs, pickle beets and green celery tops. 54 J— EGG SALAD. Boil from six to twelve eggs, according to quantity desired, cut in thin slices when cold, put into salad bowl upon a layer of lettuce, and cover the same with a thin layer of mayonnaise or other salad dressing. 542— SHRIMP SALAD. To one can or shrimps, take one bunch of lettuce, and two stalks of celery, cut up fine, add a half cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing and mix thoroughly together; pour a little more dressing over the top; garnish edge of platter with pickled beets and lettuce leaves; sprinkle over with chopped parsley, and serve. 543— CELERY SALAD. Take two bunches of celery, cut up lengthwise to size o f a match, or tooth- pick, take half a bunch of lettuce chopped up fine, season with salt, pepper and vinegar; add half cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing, and mix together. Garnish edge of platter with lettuce and parsley. 544 -RED VEGETABLE SALAD. To one pint of cold boiled potatoes, sliced, and same amount of cold boiled beets, sliced, and half-pint each of un- cooked red cabbage and celery chopped fine, add four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and pepper to taste; add a cupful of mayonaise or other salad dressing and mix all thoroughly. Let stand in a cool place one hour, then serve; garnish with beets and sprig of parsley. 545— CAULIFLOWER SALAD. Take a well cooked cauliflower when cold, and break into small pieces; season with a little salt and vinegar; put it in a bowl, the edge garnished with lettuce or leaves from the cauliflower; then pour over a thin laj^er of mayonaise or other salad dressing, cut two hard-boiled eggs into thin slices, also some pickled beets, and arrange over the top alternately. 546— BEET SALAD. Take the blood-red beet and boil thoroughly, slice and cut into squares, season with salt, and pour over some of the mayonnaise or other salad dressing. Garnish edge of dish with lettuce. 547— WATERCRESS SALAD. Take two bunches of watercress and wash thoroughly in cold water. Cut in felice three slices of bacon, fry crisp, mix in the cress with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add a half cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing, and ser\'e on a cold dish. 548— CUCUMBER SALAD. Slice cucumbers into thin slices.sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, and serve with a thin layer of mayonnaise or other salad dressing; garnish with sliced toma- toes. 549- APPLE SALAD. Peel and core two large apples, cut them into small pieces; chop up fine an equal amount of celery; mix thoroughly do not mix with any dressing, but ser\'e covered with a thin layer of mayonnaise or other salad dressing; keep on ice until ready to serve. 86 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 550— ORANGE SALAD. Separate lengthwise six or more oranges, remove the pith and seeds, cut each strip into three or four pieces; place these in a salad bowl, pour over a thin layer of dressing; can be garnished very tastily with orange peel cut in shape to form a star in the middle, and crescents, alternating with cut flowers for the edge. 55 J— SHREDDED CABBAGE. WITH MAYONNAISE. Take a head of cabbage, shred it up fine, mix with a little salt, pepper and vinegar, and pour over a half cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing, gar- nish edge of dish with lettuce. 552-LETTUCE SALAD. Get nice young lettuce, thoroughly wash, and put into ice-cold water to crisp it, cut the leaves into small pieces and put into a deep glass dish or bowl, mix in a suflScient quantity of maj'onnaise or other salad dressing, no other seasoning; gar- nish with sliced hard boiled eggs, sliced pickled beets, or small red radishes cut in halves or slices. <^ 553— TOMATOES WITH MAYON- NAISE. Sliced tomatoes served with the mayon- naise or other salad dressing are complete. No other seasoning is required, as the mayonnaise meets ail requirements for this delectable vegetable. 554— TOMATO SALAD. Take the skin, juice and seeds from nice fresh tomatoes, chop what remains with celery, and pour over the whole the mayonnaise or other salad dressing, noth- ing else. Serve a tablespoonful on a small leaf of lettuce. 555-POTATO SALAD. Take six cold boiled potatoes and slice very thin, take two onions chopped up very fine, season with salt, pepper and vinegar, to the taste, add half a cupful of cream and a similar amount of mayonnaise or salad dressing, and mix thoroughly; garnish edge of platter with sliced cold boiled eggs, sprinkle top over with chopped parsley and serve. 556— SWEET POTATO SALAD. Take four boiled sweet potatoes, when cold peel and cut into small dice, mix in four stalks of celery, cut the same way, season with a little vinegar, salt and pep- per, and add c ver the top a quarter cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing. 557— CABBAGE AND CELERY SALAD. Take half a head of cabbage and one bunch of celery, either chop up fine or shred both up to the size of a toothpick, mix together with a little salt, pepper and vinegar, and half a cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing; lay on a bed of crisp lettuce, and garnish edge of dish with pickled beets, pitted olives, minced pickles or sliced boiled eggs. 558— FROG LEG SALAD. Boil two or three dozen frog legs slowly in water, with a pinch of salt, until quite tender, drain and cover with cold milk for fifteen minutes; when cold remove all bones, shred an eqiial amount of celery, and mix; spread on a cold platter with a thin layer of the mayonnaise or other salad dressing over the top; garnish with thin slices of lemon, pitted olives and small radishes. 559— SALMON SALAD. Take one pound of fresh cooked sal- mon, or one can, remove all bones and chop same up in small pieces; add two bunches of celery cut in a like manner, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, a half teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, then add a half cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing, and mix all up well. Take a bunch of lettuce and trim edge of platter with the large leaves, heap the salmon on them lightly in the center of the dish, and cover with a thin layer o^ PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 87 mayonnaise, and, if desired, thin slices of lemon or pickled beets may be used for the edge, sprinkle with minced pars- ley and serve. 560— SARDINE SALAD. Take two pounds of any kind of fish, boiled, cool and remove all bones, mix in a half cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing, and lay on a bed of crisp lettuce; split six sardines, and if there are any bones, remove them, arrange the sardines over the top, having the ends meet in the center of the dish. At the base of the dish make a wreath of thin slices of lemon, parsley or lettuce. 561— ANCHOVY SALAD. Use about a dozen of salted anchovies, and soak them in water for an hour, cut them into small pieces or strips, add a few stalks of celery cut fine, and a table- spoonful of vinegar. Place in a bowl with lettuce leaves as a base, pour on a small amount of mayonnaise or other salad dressing, and cut three or four hard-boiled eggs ia slices and place over the top. 562— CODFISH SALAD. Soak three or four pieces of codfish over night, then boil for foriy minutes, cool, drain, and cut or shred in small pieces, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a little salt and pepper, add three boiled potatoes and an onion chopped moderately fine; and serve with a thin layer of mayonnaise or other salad dressing over the top. 563— CRAB SALAD. Take about a dozen hard shell crabs boiled as directed in No. 182, when cold remove all the meat carefully from the body as well as the claws, mince an equal amount of celery, mix with a half cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing, garnish with lettuce and cover with a thin layer of the dressing. 564— SCALLOP SALAD. Take two dozen scallops and soak them in salted water for an hour, rinse them in cold water, then boil for twenty minutes and drain; when cold, cut them into small slices and mix in a bunch of celery chopped up fine, pour a half cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing over the top, garnish with thin slices of lemon and beets. 565— RUSSIAN SALAD. A cupful of cold boiled or roast beef well done, five or six slices of bacon cut in dice and fried crisp, two small bunches of lettuce, shredded; cut the beef like the bacon, add a half can of French peas, a little vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, mix in a cupful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing. Spread on platter, cover with a thin layer of mayonnaise; garnish the edge with pickles chopped fine, and watercress. 566— SWEETBREAD SALAE. Boil the sweetbreads in salted water for twenty minutes, then cut into small pieces, mix in a bunch of shredded lettuce and a couple of stalks of celery cut fine; then add a sufficient quantity of mayon- naise or other salad dressing to taste ; gar- nish mth slices of sweatbread and lemon. 567— OYSTER SALAD. Bring to a boil about four dozen small oysters, in their own liquor, skim and strain; season with a little salt, pepper and vinegar; when cold, add about half the quantity of chopped celery, and a cup- ful of mayonnaise or other salad dressing; garnish the dish with the celery leaves, and thin slices of lemon sprinkled with parsley over the top. 568— LOBSTER SALAD. Obtain a fresh boiled lobster, canned lobsters may be used, or boil a green lob- ster as directed elsewhere in this book; after cooling pick the meat from the shells and claws, cut the meat up in small pieces, and chop up fine two stalks of celery, add a small quantity of vine- gar, salt and pepper, mix a little, then add a half cupful of the mayonnaise or 38 TRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. other salad dressing and mix thoroughly. Spread the salad on a cold platter, cover the top with a thin layer of mayonnaise; garnish with lettuce, celery tops or pars- ley and the clean red claws, or boiled eggs and watercress. 569— HAM SALAD. I cupful of cold boiled potatoes cut in small dice. I cupful of chopped celery. I cupful of lean boiled ham minced fine. yz teaspoonful of celery salt. % cupful of mayonnaise or other dress- ing. Mix all together with the mayonnaise, reserving a little to spread on top. 570— TURKEY SALAD. Use the remnants of a roast turkey, pick all the dark and white meat that is left carefully, and proceed as directed for chicken salad. 571— HAMBURGH SALAD. 1 pint of mixed smoked halibut, dried beef and corned tongue cut in small dice. 2 large potatoes cut the same way. I cupful of celery. 1 small onion minced. 2 cloves of garlic finelj' minced. 2 pickled red peppers. 3 hard-boiled eggs. Cook the dried beef and tongue two hours, parboil the celery ten minutes, mix all together except the eggs; make a dressing of % cup of oil. % cup of vinegar. I tablespoonful of prepared mustard. yi, teaspoonful of white pepper. I teaspoonful of salt. Put these in a bowl and mix thorough- ly, then pour over the salad, garnish with the sliced eggs and tinj' leaves of lettuce or chicon,'. 572— OYSTER PLANT SALAD. Clean the oyster plants and set them in salted ice-water, let them remain for an hour, and put them on to boil without changing the water; try with a fork and when they are done drain off the hot wa- ter and throw the oyster-plants in cold water so that they will retain their good color; slice of even thickness; put them in a salad bowl and pour over mayonnaise thinned with a little Chili vinegar; deco- rate with a border of watercress and slices of the oyster plant. ^ 573— STUFFED TOMATOES. 10 medium sized tomatoes, not too ripe, and smooth. 2 cupfuls of fine bread crumbs. 2 tablespoonfuls of minced onions. A basting spoonful of minced fat salt pork. A teaspoonful of salt. White pepper. Cut a slice off the top of each tomato and scoop out with a spoon into a strain- er; all the inside except enough of the shell to make a case should be turned out; mix the pulp with the other ingre- dients and fill the tomatoes, place them close in a buttered pan, dredge cracker meal on top, brush over with a little but- ter and bake thirty minutes. ^ 574-MACARONI AND CHEESE. A pound package of macaroni. yi pint of minced parmesan or domes- tic cheese. 3 basting spoonfuls of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. 3 eggs. Cracker meal. Break the macaroni and throw into a saucepan of boiling water, and when it has boiled twent}' minutes pour into a colander to drain, put it into a two-quart earthen baking dish, mix the cheese and butter with it; mix the flour smooth with a little of the milk, when this is done add the rest of the milk gradually, then tlie beaten eggs and salt, pour this on the macaroni, sift cracker meal on top and bake brown. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 89 GARNISHING. Suggestions for garnishing salads and other cold dishes will be found in part V of this book. 575— MACARONI, A LA FRANCAISE. A pound package of macaroni. A cupful of parmesan or domestic cheese. 3 basting spoonfuls of butter. I quart of milk. Flour thickening. 4 eggs. I pint of cream sauce. Salt and parsley. Throw the macaroni in a saucepan of boiling water, cook twenty minutes, drain, then put in an earthen baking dish holding three quarts; cut the cheese in small dice and mix it with the macaroni and butter; mix the eggs, milk and a basting spoonful of flour thickening to- gether and pour over the macaroni and set in the oven to bake; while this is baking make a pint of cream sauce, add to it a basting spoonful of chopped pars- ley, pour this over the macaroni and bake light brown on top; ^end to the table in the dish it has baked in. 756— MACARONI, A L'lTALlENNE. I pound of macaroni. I cupful of grated cheese. I pint of thick stewed tomatoes. A pint of brown gra\'y. Boil the macaroni in the usual way, drain and put in an earthen baking dish with the cheese, tomatoes and gravy, mix up and let it simmer half an hour in a slack oven. Ser\'e in individual dishes. 577— SPAGHETTI AND CREAM. Spaghetti is made like macaroni with the difference that they are solid while the macaroni is hollow. Break up the spaghetti and cook it as you would maca- roni; drain it and put in enough cream sauce to just come up level to it; sprinkle with grated cheese and minced parsley. 578— RABBITS, A L'ETOUFFE. Four rabbits cleaned and cut as directed in No. 264. Cut each rabbit in six por- tions, boil them in a kettle of seasoned stock; when done put the pieces in a bak- ing pan with a half cup of butter, a cup of light cream, salt and pepper, and dust over with flour, brown quickly in a hot oven; when slightly colored put a quart of the stock in the pan, thicken slightly, and serve. 579— RABBIT A LA SOUBISE. Cut rabbits as directed in the above rec- ipe, steep them in cold water over night, boil until tender in just enough stock to cover them, season highly with salt and pepper and scraps of bacon; take the pieces out and keep them warm while you make a sauce with five large onions boiled until tender enough to mash, rub them through a coarse strainer, add more salt and a cup of milk to this puree, thicken with flour and let come to a boil. Serve with a piece of rabbit coated with the onion cream. 580-SPARE RIB, COUNTRY STYLE. Divide spare-ribs in portions of conve- nient size by sawing, as it leaves no splinters, place these in a baking pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper and powdered sage, bake in a quick oven; serve with a sauce made as follows: Fry a minced onion in butter until a light color, put in a ladle full of brown sauce diluted with half stock, season quite strongl}' with pepper, let simmer a few minutes and add a basting spoonful of vinegar, let it boil again and skim off the superfluous fat; when ready to serve mix in a spoonful of prepared mustard. 581 -SUPREME .OF SWEETBREADS. Supreme of any kind takes its name from a rich sauce called supreme that is poured over the pieces of meat. The pieces naturally enough should be built up in some regular form. When a large dish is served for a party, it can be gar- nished with green peas, asparagus heads, black truffles, cepes, mushrooms, etc. Supreme is the richest white sauce that can be made; it is cream colored, smooth and soft like butter; should be 9° PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. made of clear chicken broth boiled with fresh mushrooms and thickened with fresh white butter and flour; strain and add one-third of its volume of rich cream, it should be just thick enough to stick to the meat and coat them without being a paste. Parboil large sweetbreads, put them between two pans until cold, lard with fat bacon using the smallest needle, split in halves, trim, simmer in butter, a few spoonfuls of broth, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice; they will be done in about 20 minutes ; place a foundation of boiled rice in each individual dish, a sweetbread on this and sauce poured over; garnish with black truffle cut in slices or green peas; warm these in clarified butter and place carefully upon the white sauce. 582— TERRAPIN, MARYLAND STYLE. Two seven or eight pound terrapins, boiled as directed elsewhere, cut the meat in small pieces the size of lima beans; keep the eggs and fat separately, boil down the liquor the terrapins were boiled in, thicken it with flour and butter, stirred until it bubbles, adding the liquor gradually, add a small teacupful of Ma- deira; take twelve paper cases, brush them inside with olive oil, line the bot- tom of the cases with cracker crumbs moistened with melted butter, place them in a hot oven one minute, take them out, partly fill them with the terrapin meat, eggs and fat on top, and fill up with the thick sauce, ten minutes before serving place the cases in the oven on a sheet of manila paper; serve hot. 583-VEAL POT PIE. 2 lbs. of veal; neck, shank or flank. I small onion. 1 cup of milk. 2 slices of salt pork. Flour thickening. Salt and pepper. Dumpling dough. Stew the meat an hour in water, just enough to cover it, season, add the milk and thickening, pour this stew in a bak- ing pan, and mix up two cupfuls of flour, a heaping spoonful of baking powder with a cupful of milk or water, and one- half a teaspoonful of salt; the dough should be too soft to handle; stir it well together and drop portions all over the stew; bake fifteen to twenty minutes. .^ 584— POTTING. Potting seems to be one of the most ancient practices of preserving meat in the form of paste in small jars made tight by a covering of melted butter. Potted meats are served both hot and cold, for example, potted pigeons No. 491 should be served hot, while ham and chicken are good cold for sandwiches, etc. Tough, wirey game, fowl, or pieces of meat can be made tender by setting it in a jar in the oven with stock and seasonings and sealed with a flour and water paste and baked three or four hours according to the contents of the jar. ^ 585— MINCED QUAILS. For twelve orders take : 6 quails. % cup of rice. 3 pints of broth. A bunch of soup vegetables. }i cup of butter. % cup of flour. Seasoning. Cook the rice in the usual way. Take off the breasts of the quails raw with a boning knife, split them, season with salt and simmer in a covered jar with a spoonful of melted butter; when done on both sides without browning take them out, put them in a dish and set till cold with a plate on top; break up the bones and legs, boil them in the broth with the vegetables; when all the richness is ex- tracted strain the liquor, thicken with the flour stirred up with the butter as for a cream sauce, add a little pepper and skim off any fat that may rise. Cut the breasts of the quails in small dice, mix them in the hot sauce just before serving. Make a border of small cones with the cooked rice dished with a small spoon dipped in butter; place a sprig of parsley between the cones. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 91 586— LAMB'S HEART, A L'ECOS- SAKE. Cut the lamb's heart in slices about half an inch thick, fry them in a little butter, dredge witti salt and pepper while they are frying; make forcemeat balls as directed in No. 589; roll them in flour and bake in the oven in a buttered pan until they have acquired a nice brown color. Serve a slice of the heart with a spoonful of brown gravy, with two or three forcemeat balls and pitted olives all around. 587— LAMB'S TONGUE, WITH BRUSSEL SPROUTS. Take the tongues out of the pickle, wash them and boil two and a half hours; when cold trim off all the outside and split them lengthwise; throw the halves in a baking pan where meats have been roasting and let them bake until they are slightly glazed. Cook the brussel sprouts as directed elsewhere; when done drain them, add salt, pepper and melted butter, and chop them fine; serve a spoonful in a dish with two halves of tongue neatly ar- ranged in the middle. 588— STEWED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST. Drain a can of button mushrooms, warm them in a pan with a basting spoon- ful of butter; when hot throw in a tea- spoonful of minced parsley and two bast- ing spoonfuls of Bordelaise sauce if handy, otherwise use brown gravy; sen^e on buttered toast cut in fancy shapes. 589— STUFFED SADDLE OF MUTTON. Bone a loin of mutton; make a highly seasoned forcemeat; press this in all the cavities made by taking out the ribs and other bones, roll up, tie with twine to keep in shape and bake until tender. The forcemeat may be made as follows: I cupful of minced turkey or chicken. A cupful of raw veal. A thick slice of boiled ham. A basting spoonful of minced onion. Pepper and salt. yi teaspoonful of sage. Serve a slice of the stuffed loin with a spoonful of gravy made in the pan. 590— PARSNIP FRITTERS. Boil parsnips until tender, drain and mash them; for one cupful of dry mashed parsnip use a tablespoonful of melted butter, a tablespoonful of flour, one egg, salt and pepper. Stir these all together; drop small portions in hot lard from the end of a spoon ; may be served with cream sauce or as an accompaniment to venison or other game. 591 -SALMON PATTIES. I can of salmon. A cup of rich cream sauce. 10 patty cases. Pick the salmon free from all bones and skin, mix it with the cream sauce and fill the cases, made as directed for oyster patties. 592— PEACHES WITH RICE. I pint of cooked rice. yi dozen of peaches. y^ cupful of currant jelly. Boil and cut the peaches in halves, sim- mer them in thick syrup, when they are done keep ready to serve. Cook the rice as directed elsewhere in this book, using a tablespoonful of sugar instead of salt. Take out the peaches, lay them on a sepa- rate dish, and mix the currant jelly with the peach syrup for the sauce. Serve a spoonful of rice with two halves of peaches and the sauce poured over. 593 -VEAL AND OYSTER PIE. I pint of oysters. I pint of milk. I pound of lean veal cut in small pieces. A cupful of potato boulettes. Minced parsley. Short paste. Cut the cooked veal in pieces of even size, steep it in warm broth a few minutes before it is wanted, if not very tender boil in the broth until it is tender; put the oys- ters in a small colander, dip that in the kettle containing the boiling broth and 92 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. veal, when they are scalded raise the colander so as to drain all the liquor back in the kettle; season and thicken the con- tents of the kettle, put in the oysters then the potato boulettes, sprinkle the parsley on top and cover with short paste made as directed in recipe No. 305. 594— FISH AU GRATIN. Take the remnants of boiled or baked fish of a flaky nature, such as haddock, halibut, salmon, cod, etc., pick the meat from the bones in flakes, then proceed exactly as for macaroni and cheese. 595— EPIGRAM OF LAMB, WITH TOMATO SAUCE. Chop the brisket of lamb across the bones to make portions about three inches square; cook the pieces in seasoned broth until tender, take out and press them be- tween two pans; when cold dredge with salt and pepper; double bread them in the usual waj' and fry in hissing hot lard. Serve with tomato or green peas. 596- DEVILED HAM. Yz dozen slices of ham. A piece of butter the size of a lemon. A teaspoonful of dry mustard. Yz teaspoonful of black pepper. I green gherkin minced. Yz cupful of vinegar and water mixed. Broil or fry the ham, mix all the other articles in the pan and drop in the hot slices of ham, let come to a boil; serve a slice of the ham with a spoonful of the sauce. 597— FARINA CAKES WITH JAM. 1 pint of milk. 4 ozs. of farina. A small half cup of sugar. A tablespoonful of melted butter. 2 eggs. Boil the milk with half of the sugar in it, stir in the farina, let it cook \&xy slowly for twenty minutes then mix in the butter and eggs, pour it in a flat earthen dish, it must be about an inch thick, bake this about ten minutes, taVe it out of the oven and dredge the remain- ing sugar over, bake it again to glaze; serve with strawberry jam or jelly. 598— FRENCH PANCAKES AU CONFITURES. Yt. lb. of flour. A basting spoonful of sugar. 7 eggs. A cupful of milk. A tablespoonful of melted butter. A cupful of whipped cream. A basting spoonful of brandy. Mix the yolks of eggs with the milk, put in the sugar, melted butter, brandy and a pinch of salt, add all the flour and stir it up smooth, whip the cream and mix it with the batter; next put in the whites whipped to a stiff froth ; bake thin cakes on a griddle or in a small egg pan; when done spread with strawberry jam, or jelly, and roll up; sprinkle powdered sugar on top and serve. ,^ 599— FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. Yi 11). of veal, boned and minced. Yz tt). of cooked veal cut the same way. I onion. Yz cupful of minced ham. Yz teaspoonful of pepper. I teaspoonful of salt. The meat, both raw and cooked, must be about a quarter fat. Fry the onion minced fine in a spoonful of butter and when they begin to brown mix in the meat, when done press the meat in a deep narrow shaped pan, smooth it, lay some strips of bacon over the top and bake in a slow oven for about three-quarters of an hour; turn out on a platter and serve slices with brown gravy to which you mav add mushrooms or sliced truffles. 600— LAMB FRIES. Wash them and boil ten minutes in salted water and a basting spoonful of vinegar, let them get cold and split in two, sprinkle plentifully with pepper and salt, and flour them on both sides, fry them brown in butter. Serve with to- mato sauce, or a border of green peas. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 93 601— MINCED KIDNEYS. 1 large beef kidney. 2 slices of fried ham. I hard boiled egg. Mince the ham very fine and cut the kidneys in pieces no larger than lima beans; fry them with a spoonful of melted butter in the pan, when partly cooked add the minced ham, pepper and salt to taste, let them cook very slowly three or four minutes; serve on buttered toast with chopped eggs sprinkled over. 602— FILLET OF VEAL, LARDED. Twelve portions of select veal steak cut from the leg about the size of the middle slice of an ordinary turnip cut an inch thick; lard these by drawing through strips of salt pork in such a manner that they will cluster in the middle of the veal and protrude a little at each end, season with a finely minced onion, salt and pepper; put them close together in the pan, bake in a quick oven till light brown ; baste them twice while they are cooking. Serve with a truffle sauce, mushrooms fried in butter or green peas. 603— APRICOT, A LA REGENCE. Take halves of apricots, against a like amount of rice croquette mixture, make these in the form of a ball giving it a double breading and fry in the usual man- ner it! a kettle of hot lard; when done roll them in granulated sugar, and serve with a sauce made of the apricot syrup to each pint of which use one-half cup of sugar, a piece of butter the size of an egg and thicken with cornstarch. 604— TIPS OF ASPARAGUS ON TOAST. Trim off the ends of the stems of as- paragus, let them lie in cold water for an hour, throw them in boiling water to which you have added a teaspoonful of salt and a pinch of bicarbonate of soda, boil moderately until the ends are tender, drain them carefully without breaking off the tips, cut these off and serve on buttered toast with a spoonful of melted butter poured over. 605— BANANA FRITTERS. Make fritter batter as described in No. 507 for apple fritters, cut the bananas in two, moisten them with a little syrup made of a tablespoonful of rum and all the sugar it will dissolve, dip each piece in the batter and fry them in hot lard. Serve with powdered sugar or rum sauce. ^ 606— PORK CHOPS WITH FRIED APPLES. Fry or broil the pork chops, keep them hot while you get ready the apples sliced in two across the core without paring or coring, dip the apples in flour and lay them in a large frying pan in which there is a little hot drippings from the pork roast pan; fry one side brown, then turn over with an egg lifter and brown the other side; serve two pieces to each pork chop. 607-POTTED BEEF STEAK. A slice of rump steak cut in pieces suit- able for portions, put these into a gallon jar with A teaspoonful of aromatic salt No. i. A small slice of bacon to each portion. A teaspoonful of vinegar. A pint of broth. Put over the jar a buttered paper and a cover, bake in a slow oven two and a half hours, then take the meat out, strain and skim the gravy; add a table- spoonful of mushroom catsup to the gravy, and serve. Jt 608-COMPOTE OF BANANAS. Make a sweet pudding sauce; cut the bananas in halves lengthwise then once across, put them in the hot sauce and keep them to the boiling point just a few minutes, they must not boil as they will get too soft. Serve two pieces of banana with the syrup on a spoonful of boiled rice. 94 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 609— ETOUFFE DE BOEUF, AU LEGUMES. 3 lbs. of solid lean beef. 2 carrots. 2 parsnips. lo potatoes. A can of F'rench peas. Lard the beef with the salt pork as di- rected for Beef a la Mode, and boil with just enough stock to cover it, add the vegetables cut in quarters as evenly as possible; take out the vegetables as they are done, and when the meat has boiled tender let the liquor boil down to a glaze. Serve a slice of the beef with a slice of carrot, one of turnip, a potato, and a spoonful of the green peas wanned in butter. 6 JO— BAKED RIBS OF VEAL, WITH POTATOES. Three pounds of veal, the ribs preferred, cook in the usual way; steam some pota- toes, new ones preferred, when they are almost done put them in the oven with the roast to brown; dish two or three with each order of veal. 611— OX TONGUE HOLLANDAISE. Secure a nice, large, red, corned tongue, lard it lengthwi.se with strips of clear fat bacon or salt pork; put it in a covered jar with a quart of stock and a bunch of soup vegetables; bake in the oven three hours; serve two thin slices of the tongue cut lengthwise on a bed of beet greens or spinach; garnish the dish with quarters of hard boiled eggs. 6I2-CREPINETTES. One pound of cooked meat of any kind left over from previous meals, one-half pound of fat raw i:it-;it, cut these with a sausage cutter, and season with a tea- spoonful of aromatic salt No. 2; make in- to little pats as for pork sausage and brown on both sides in a frying pan ; serve immediately with a spoonful of brown gravy or Bordelaise sauce; garnish with cress. ^ 613 DEVILED HAM, WITH SWEET POTATOES. Prepare ham as directed in No. 596; serve with a spoonful of mashed sweet potatoes; season with butter, cream, salt and pepper. 6H— MINCED VEAL WITH POACHED EGGS. Take the remains of a cold roast of veal, cut in very small dice, warm in a pan with a spoonful of melted butter and add a cup of brown gravy to every pint of the cooked meat; season with sage, salt and pepper; serve a spoonful on a shape of buttered toast with a hard poached egg on top. 6J5— BAKED PORK AND BEANS. Pick over one pint of pea-beans, wash and let them remain in cold water over night, put them in a kettle with just enough fresh water to cover them, add a pinch of baking soda, boil for an hour; pour all the contents of the kettle into a strainer; when the beans are drained put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to come itp level, boil a few min- utes; season with salt, a pinch of mustard, white pepper and a basting spoonful of molasses; put them in a tin pan, cover with slices of salt pork and bake half an hour. I ^ 616— BOSTON BAKED BEANS. As cold beans are very palatable we give the following recipe large enough to have some left to serve when cold. I quart of pea or navy beans. ^ lb. of salt pork. Yz teacupful of molasses. Yz teaspoonful each of white pepper and mustard. Soak over night in cold water, in the morning put the beans in a one-gallon stone jar, for which there must be a cover, put in the molasses, salt pork, mustard and pepper and put in enough water so it will come up two inches above the beans; put the cover on the jar and set it in the oven where it should remain ten hours; when done they are not crisp brown on top, just done with a little water in the bottom; the heat of the oven must be steadv and moderate. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 95 6I7-CHIPPED BEEF AND CREAM. One-half pound of chipped beef ; boil in water five minutes; make a pint of cream sauce, when ready beat in a piece of butter the size of a lemon; drain the water from the beef and pour the cream sauce over it; serve with baked potatoes that have been split open on top and a piece of butter inserted. 618— BOEUF, AU PETIT POIS. Take a poimd of small bits of beef trimmed off from the end of the porter- house steak, tenderloin or any other part, cut all of one size, put in a saucepan with a basting spoonful of melted butter, a chopped onion and a little aromatic salt No. i; fry a few minutes, stirring fre- quently; when it is lightly colored add enough stock or water to barely cover the meat, put in two cups of green peas and stew until the meat is tender. If canned peas are used do not put them in until the meat is cooked. May be served plain or on toast cut in fancy shapes; garnish with parsley and chopped hard-boiled eggs sprinkled over. 619— BREAST OF LAMB, STEWED WITH DUMPLINGS. Two pounds of breast of lamb chopped into pieces about two inches square, stew these with a cupful of cut mixed vegeta- bles, season with a teaspoonful of aro- matic salt No. I ; when the meat is tender take it out and strain the liquor, thicken lightly with flour; add three yolks of eggs last; put the meat back and keep warm until ready to serve. Make the dump- lings with baking powder biscuit dough, cut in small square pieces and cook in a steamer, make them small enough so you can serve two dumplings with each order; sprinkle with parsley dust when ready to 620— SCALLOPED VEAL. One pound of thin slices of veal steak, cut as thin as possible and not larger than a slice of medium sized turnip; dredge these with aromatic salt No. i, give them a single breading, lay them in a buttered pan and moisten with fresh melted butter; brown them crisp in the oven and of a nice color. Serve with a spoonful of tomato sauce or any other suitable to taste. When properly baked they will curl up like chipped potatoes. 621— VEAL, EN DEMI-GLACE. Take a three-pound piece of veal, either the shoulder or thick flank, or still better a piece of the leg, lard it with strips of salt pork, use a medium sized needle. Put a half dozen slices of pork in a bak- ing pan with A bunch of soup vegetables. A sprig of parsley. I teaspoonful of aromatic salt No. 2. I pint of broth or water. % cup of wine. Put the larded veal on top, cover with a buttered paper, baste every fifteen min- utes until tender, take out the meat and strain the gravy, let this boil down to a glaz". Serve a slice of the veal with a spoonful of the gravy, and pitted olives for garnish. 622— WELSH RAREBIT. I ft), of cheese. X ft>. of butter. I glass of ale. Bass's preferred. ID slices of toast. Salt, cayenne. Cut the cheese in small pieces and put it with the butter in a small saucepan, work them together with a spoon until the cheese is melted and hot — it must not come to a boil — keep it from getting too hot by putting in the ale in .small portions; season with the salt and cay- enne; place a spoonful on thin slices of toast and set it on the top shelf in the oven for two or three minutes; moisten the edge of the toast with ale and serve immediately. Milk can be used instead of ale, but the dish will not be as highly flavored. A good imitation of rarebit is to butter slices of toast, cover them with thin slices of cheese and bake in the oven until the cheese is melted. 96 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 623— POTATO SHELLS. Make the croquette preparation as in No. 657, adding two yolks of eggs, turn it on a floured pastry board, make a long roll of it, cut off in slices common biscuit size; give them a double breading, mark a lid in each one as you would for tarts, fry in hot lard until they obtain a light color, they must not stay in very long as they would burst out of shape; when done lift out the lid with a small spoon and scrape out the inside, thus making crisp shells of potatoes ready to be filled with any kind of patty prepara- tion. Can also be made in boats, dia- monds or oval shapes. 624— RICE SHELLS. Made as directed for potato shells No. 623, using dry boiled rice mashed and mixed with a yolk of egg instead of po- tatoes. 625— CROAKER IN BATTER. Split the fish lengthwise, remove the bone, dredge with salt and white pepper, dip in thin batter made as directed for frying batter, fi-y in lard. Serve with a suitable sauce and potato boulettes. 626— BRAINS, A LA VINAIGRETTE. Boil the brains in water seasoned with the juice of a lemon, a table spoonful of vinegar, a little salt and an onion, boil gently for half an hour, take them out, remove the skin and discolored portions, strain the liquor in which they have been boiled through a cloth, put them back in the pan with the strained liquor and simmer half an hour longer. Serve with a cold dressing made of two parts of vin- egar and one of olive oi) seasoned with salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of pre- pared mustard to every cupful of the mix- ture. Serve one lobe of the brain with a spoonful of the dressing sprinkled with finely chopped green pickle. 627— CALF'S LIVER, EN CROUS- TADES. Make potato shells as directed in No. 623 and fill them with a preparation made of: yi lb. of calf's liver. As much of onions. yi. pint of brown gravy. A tablespoonful of wine (optional). Mince the liver and onions extremely fine, fry them together with a little but- ter; when done to a nice brown color add the wine and brown gravy; let it simmer until quite thick, season and fill the patty shells. Garnish with quarters of eggs and parsley. 628— MACARONI A LA GENOISE. Boil the macaroni in the usual way; serve in a dish with Espagnole poured over and grated cheese on top. Brown gravy may be used if preferred. 629— MACARONI WITH NEUF- CHATEL. yi pound of macaroni. A five cent package of Neufchatel cheese. Piece of biitter the size of a lemon. 2 cups of milk or sweet cream. Boil the macaroni in water in the usual way; warm the butter and cheese in a saucepan; have the milk or cream hot and add this a little at a time, finish with a dust of cayenne. Do not let the mix- ture come to the boiling point. Drain the macaroni and pour the cheese mix- ture over; serve hot. 630-MEs[CED HAM ON TOAST. A good way to use the trimmings from the cold boiled ham that would not be good sliced; take all you have and cut with a sausage cutter; to every cupful add a spoonful of cream or water, season with white pepper and serve on shapes of but- tered toast. 63I-MUSHROOMS, AU VIN. I can of button mushrooms, or as much of fresh. I cup of brown gravy. ]4. cup of wine. Salt, cayenne. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 97 Drain the liquor from the mushroom can, mix with the brown gravy, put in half of the wine and boil at the side of the range until clear; skim off the fat if any; put in the mushrooms, the rest of the wine and a dust of cayenne. 632— MUSSELS. Mussels are a small shell fish not more than three inches in length and one inch in width, almost black; the usual way of eating them is boiled or stewed; they may be cooked almost in any way pertaining to oysters. 633— STEWED MUSSELS. Steam mussels in their shell until they open, pull off the beard, take them out and put in a saucepan; make a cream sauce and pour it over the mussels, add minced parsley, and serve in paper cases or on buttered toast. Ji 634— CORNED BEEF HASH. A good way to use corned beef left over from dinner; there are no elaborate rec- ipes to follow to make good hash, still it seems that but a few people make good hash; it is either like a paste or else mix- ed up with the vegetables of the boiled dinner, or again onions are used in its preparation. The meat should be cut in extremely fine dice with a sharp knife, it will then make a clean, bright looking hash. The following proportions can be taken as a standard for making corned beef hash : I coffee cupful of minced corned beef pressed in solid. 4 good sized potatoes boiled purposely. I teaspoonf ul of salt. }4 teaspoonful of white pepper. A basting spoonful of fresh butter. 3^ cup of stock, milk or water. Trim off all the discolored portions on the outside of the corned beef; chop the potatoes in a wooden bowl with a chop- ing knife. Add the other ingredients. Salt or butter can be omitted if the corned beef is more salty or fatter than usual. 635— STEWED CORNED BEEF. I lb. of cooked corned beef. As much of potatoes. I onion. Pepper. Flour thickening. Trim the cooked corned beef of all dis- colored portions and cut in large dice, cut the potatoes the same way and boil in salted water fifteen minutes; put the corned beef in a saucepan with the minced onion and pepper; put in the boiled po- tatoes and enough stock to just cover, simmer until tender, thicken with flour and season. 636— CHEESE FONDU. For an omelet for six make half the quantity of Welsh rarebit, when the prep- aration is hot and creamy break in four eggs, one at a time, stirring like you would scrambled eggs. Serve on toast cut in fancy shape. 637— FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREAD AND MUSHROOMS. 1 pound of sweetbreads. A cupful of fresh mushrooms. 2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. A tablesp®onful of flour. A tablespoonful of minced ham. A tablespoonful of minced onion. Juice of a large lemon. Salt and white pepper. Toast. Prepare the sweetbreads in seasoned broth and press between two pans, remove the discolored portions and cut them in large dice. Take a large saucepan, put in half of the butter, the onion and ham; when these are cooked without browning, put in the flour and stir the mixture over the fire until it begins to color, then add a cup of the liquor in which the sweet- breads were boiled, a cup of chicken broth or liquor of the canned mushrooms, stir and let boil until it becomes thick, add a little white pepper. Melt the rest of the butter in a frying pan, put in the mush- rooms and sweetbreads, shake them up until they are warm, take them off and squeeze in the lemon juice; strain over this the sauce from the other saucepan. 98 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY Dish them in heaps in the center of individual dishes with small shapes of fried bread around. 638— CALF'S HEAD TURTLE STYLE. Cook the calf's head as directed in No. 479, cut it in large dice and make a sauce of: I pint of brown gravy. I pint of stewed tomatoes. I clove of garlic. I small onion. A teaspoonful of aromatic salt No. i. Simmer all together for half an hour and strain the sauce; put in the pieces of calf's head and add a cupful of pitted olives; serve with a garnishing of egg balls made as follows: The yolk of one hard-boiled egg. A much of fresh steamed potatoes. Yz teaspoonful of minced parslej'. I raw yolk. Seasoning of salt and cayenne. Pound all together to a paste, make up in balls the size of cherries, poach them in boiling water. 639— VANILLA PUFF FRITTERS. yi pint of water. 3 ozs. of butter. I basting spoonful of sugar. 5 ozs. of flour. 4 small eggs or 3 large. A teaspoonful of vanilla. Boil the sugar with the water and but- ter together; drop in the flour all at once and stir over the fire until you have a firm, smooth paste; take it off, let it re- main five minutes on the table and beat in the eggs one at a time, adding the vanilla with the last egg, beat the paste against the side of the pan for sev- eral minutes; fry in lard. 640— VEAL PIE. 2 pounds of veal (flank, brisket or neck piece) cut in pieces suitable for a stew, wash them in cold water, put them in the kettle with just enough stock to cover with a seasoning of salt, pepper and a basting spoonful of minced onions; boil half an hour, then throw in six large po- tatoes cut in pieces, cook until tender, thicken with a little flour, pour in a bak- ing dish, cover with paste made as direct- ed in No. 305, bake in the oven. 641— TIMBALES DE MACARONI AU TRUFFLES. Yt, R). of macaroni. 1 pint of grated cheese. Yi. cup of fresh mushrooms. Yi. cup of cold corned tongue. Yz cup of truffles. Yi pint of brown gravy. Cook the macaroni in the usual way, cut it lengthwise, when done drain it, mix with it a cup of grated cheese, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Slice the mushrooms, tongue and truffles, moisten them with a spoonful of the brown gravy, mix them with the macaroni and cheese. Butter some gem-pans, coat them with cracker dust, press in the mixture; when done turn them out of the mould and serve with a spoonful of the grated cheese on top and some of the brown gravj' all around. 642— IRISH STEW. 2 lbs. of breast of mutton. As much of potatoes. 4 onions. I turnip. I carrot. Salt and pepper. Cut the brea.st of mutton in small square pieces, boil with enough water to cover for two hours or until the meat is tender, cut the vegetables into large dice of equal size, cook them in a separate dish. When the mutton is tender and the vegetables cooked drain half the liquor off the vegetables, put them in w'ith the mutton, season with salt and white pep- per, and thicken with flour; serve with minced parsley .sprinkled over. 643— KIDNEY SAUTE. Slice two beef kidneys, let them lie in water half an hour; drain and fry them with a spoonful of butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cook slowly and stir oc- casionally; there will be a rich gravy in the pan in a short time; if they are not stirred occasionall}', the gravy is liable to curdle; PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 99 they should be done in ten minutes; put in a tablespoonful of mushroom or wal- nut catsup just before serving. 644— STEWED LAMB WITH POTA- TOES. Proceed as directed for stewed corned beef, using breast of lamb, or pieces left over, instead of corned beef. 645— GBLETS IN SHELLS. Boil the livers, gizzards and hearts of fowls in enough stock to cover; when done tender drain them out and cut them in small pieces. Mince the onion and fr>- it in a spoonful of fresh butter, put in two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until it begins to brown, then add the liquor from the giblets gradually as you would for cream .sauce; when ready put in the cut giblets and season with a tablespoon- ful of Worcestershire sauce, a basting spoonful of wine, salt and cayenne. Serve in rice shells; garnish with parsley. 646— RAGOUT OF VEAL, JARDINIERE. I lb. of veal cut into large dice. I veal kidney. ^ ft. salt pork also cut into dice. Stir them over the fire in a sauce pan with a spoonful of butter until they are light brown ; drain off all the fat, throw in one-fourth cupful of sliced mushroonis, a "half onion , one clove of garlic, both minced, and enough brown gravy diluted with water to cover; simmer gently until done. Cut one pint of various colored vegetables (turnip, carrot, squash) in small dice, boil these separately in sea- soned broth, when done drain and pour over these a cupful of cream sauce. Serve a spoonful of the ragout with some of the vearetable mixture all around. ^ 647— RISSOLETTES DE POISSON. I cup of cold whitefish, picked free from bone and skin. ^ cup of grated cheese. Pound these together in a mortar to a LofC. paste, season with salt and white pepper. Roll out a piece of pie paste very thin, cut out with a biscuit cutter, place spoon- fuls of the paste in the middle, fold over, turn and pinch the edges, brush over with beaten eggs, drop these in hot lard, take them out while still light colored and place them on a paper in a hot oven; arrange them in the middle of a platter and garnish with parsle}' and hard boiled eggs. •-* 648-SALMI OF GROUSE. Roast the birds, cool them enough to han- dle and cut in pieces suitable for individual portions. Make Spanish sauce hot, add a basting spoonful of wine and a pinch of cayenne to every cup of the sauce; put in the cut birds and a half dozen pitted olives to each bird. Serve with fried bread or croutons for ornament. 649— LAMB'S TONGUE WITH ARTICHOKES. Corn half a dozen lamb tongues in the corned beef brine, they will be ready in five or six days, boil them two hours, then dip in cold water so the}' will peel easily, and split lengthwise; have the halves ready in a dish when the roast meat is done, and take it out, lay the tongues in the fat and glaze for ten min- utes. If roast meat is not available glaze them with a cupful of brown gravy and a tablespoonful of butter in a baking pan in the oven. Cook as many artichokes as you have halves of tongiies, cut them in halves, scoop out the iibrous part, boil and drain them well; serve two halves of artichokes with a half of the tongue and a spoonful of brown gravy over. 65a-BEEF A LA CREOLE. Pieces of beef from the soup pot are best for this excellent entree; cut them in pieces suitable to sen^e three to an order. Mince an onion and a clove of garlic, frj- these in a basting spoonful of melted but- ter until they begin to brown then add a pint of tomato for every quart of the meat, simmer a few minutes and rub the sauce PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. through a colander; season with salt and pepper; pour it over the beef and let it set in the open oven until ready to serve; garnish the edges with Parisienne pota- toes. 651— HOW TO CUT TOAST FOR POACHED EGGS. Toast three slices of bread of uniform size and perfectly square; place one of the squares in the middle of the dish, cut the two others across the corners, place each one of the triangular pieces around the square in the dish. 652-GAME SAUCE. I pint of brown gravy. I cupful of red currant jelly. 6 cloves. Simmer gently fifteen minutes and strain. 653— ITALIAN SAUCE. yi pint of brown gravy. I teaspoonful of minced onion. 3 large mushrooms. Teaspoonful of minced parsley. Juice of one lemon. Salt, cayenne. Put a half cupful of the mushroom liquor in the brown gravy; add the other ingredients, boil fifteen minutes; sprinkle the parsley in the sauce just when you are ready to serve it. 654— KROMESKIES. Mince equal parts of chicken and calf's liver; season with aromatic salt No. i, moisten with a little brown gravy; roll small tablespoonfuls of the mixture in very thin slices of bacon. Secure these with a toothpick, dip in batter and fry in hot lard. The toothpicks can be removed after the rolls are done; serve with Italian or mushroom sauce. 655— GAME KROMESKIES. A good way to utilize the remnants of cold game of any kind. Pick the meat from the bones and mince it with a sau- sage cutter; season it with aromatic salt No. 2; moisten with wine mixed in equal portions with brown gravy; roll up in small portions in a very thin slice of bacon; secure this with a toothpick; dip in batter, fry in hot lard. Serve with green peas, game or mushroom sauce. 656-VEAL CUTLETS A LA BONA- PARTE. Cut veal steak from the leg very thin, and about two and a half inches wide and four inches in length; spread -with chicken croquette preparation; roll them up and place them close together in a buttered pan; pour over a little seasoned broth and sprinkle with aromatic salt No. i, sift cracker dust on top and bake about twenty-five minutes. Ser\'e with brown sauce and garnish with croutons and' slices of lemon dipped in minced parsley.. 657— POTATO CROQUETTES. I pint of steamed potatoes. 1 basting spoonful of butter. 2 yolks of eggs. yi teaspoon of salt. Mash all together,make in long rolls size of your finger, dip in beaten egg then in cracker meal; fry in hot lard. 658- STEWED EGG PLANT. Stew one pound of coarse cuts of beef in two quarts of water, choose small &^g plants, cut these in quarters and put them in with the meat; add an onion, two tomatoes skinned and seeded, salt and pepper; stew with the steam shut in until the meat is very tender and the liquor al- most reduced to a glaze; serve as it is without thickening, as the boiled egg- plant will almost dissolve and thicken the stew sufficiently. 659— POTTED TONGUE. Boil a corned tongue two and a half or three hours according to size, dip in cold water and peel off the skin, put through a sausage cutter; mix one-half pound of fresh butter, one teaspoonful of mixed ground spices and one-half teaspoonful PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. of salt; then pound these all together to a paste, press it in small jars, cups, or any- thing convenient, pour clear melted but- ter over; keep it in a cool place ready to use. 660— REMOULADE. A kind of salad dressing used for many 'Other purposes; greatly relished by the French and Italians; it has the appear- ance of thick mayonnaise with onions cut in it. 3 hard boiled eggs. 2 raw yolks. % cup of olive oil. yi cup of fresh melted butter. % cup of vinegar. A teaspoonful each of salt and prepared anustard. 3 cloves of garlic minced and crushed. 2 tablespoonfuls of finely minced green ■onions. Pinch of cayenne. Boil the eggs and pound the hard boiled yolks in a bowl with the butter, add the mustard, salt and cayenne, then the raw yolks, stir in the oil, gradually alternating with vinegar as in making ma5-onnaise, add the garlic and onion. je 66i— AGNEAU AUX HARICOTS VERTS. Cut one jjound of breast of lamb in small squares, brown it in a frying pan on the top of the range, stirring frequently. Mince fine a cup of carrots and onions mixed, put this in with just enough stock to cover and stew until tender,thick- en with browned flour and butter, sea- son to taste, and add a pint of small green beans (cooked). 662— SPANISH SAUCE. Take a large sauce pan, pour into it a cupful of clarified butter, a cupful of scraps of ham, six medium sized onions, an equal quantity of turnip and carrots, a teaspoonful of cloves, and as much of all- spice and black pepper; lay on this a couple of veal shanks and any scraps of meat you may have; set this to simmer until it becomes light brown , stirring oc- casionally; then put in a quart can of to- matoes, four quarts of soup stock, a basting spoonful of salt and cook gently for two hours, then thicken with flour to the consistency of rich cream, strain through a very fine strainer, let it cool, remove the fat when cold; it can be used for the making of most all sauces and dishes requiring brown gravy and it is very often preferable. 663-PEACH COBBLER. Make common pie paste, roll out the larger half of it to a thin sheet and take it up from the table by rolling it up on the rolling pin, then unroll it in the pan, put in pared and cut peaches one and one- half inches deep, dredge sugar over them and cover with a top crust and bake about half an hour; cut in squares and serN'e like apple dumplings. 664— PLAIN FRITTERS, No. 2. yi pint of flour. I teaspoonful of baking powder. 1 cup of luke-warm milk. 2 eggs. A basting spoonful of melted lard. A tablespoonful of syrup. Pinch of salt. Sift the flour into a pan with the bak- ing powder, beat the eggs with the milk, add all the rest of the ingredients and stir up thoroughly into a soft dough; fry large spoonfuls in hot lard and serve with maple syrup or fritter sauce. 665— APPLE COBBLER. Made as directed in No. 663, using ap- ples instead of peaches; flavor wnth nut- meg or cinnamon. 666— FARINA FRITTERS. Make farina cake as directed in No. 597; when cold slice it in long narrow pieces; give it a double breading and fry in hot lard ; when done roll the fritters in powdered sugar and serve without sauce. The cracker crumbs may be flavored with grated orange or lemon rind. PRACTICAL AND ARTLSTIC COOKERY 667— PLAIN BOILED RICE. Wash the rice in three waters, boil it half an hour in four times its vohune of water, throw all in the colander to drain, pour two or three quarts of cold water over it, when it was drained put il back in the dish in which it was cooked with a little salt, let it get hot again without scorching; the grains will then be loosened and distinct and ready to serve as directed for curries and other dishes. 668— TO BOIL VEGETABLES GREEN. To boil beet greens. asparagus and string beans so the}^ will retain their brilliant color, steep in cold water two hours be- fore they are cooked, then put in water that is already boiling; just before drop- ping them in add a little bicarbonate of soda, too much soda will turn the vege- tables yellow, but a little will preserve the color. Spinach, Brussel sprouts, spring cabbage and sorrel will be kept green by the same treatment, using car- bonate of ammonia instead of bicarbonate of soda. For green celery leaves direc- tions have been given elsewhere in this book. 669— POTATOES AU FINE HERBS. Cut each potato in cubes of even size, boil these in water and drain off before they are quite done; fry in clear lard a light color; sprinkle with fine .salt and parslej' dust. 670— POTATOES A LA POULETTE. Cut Parisienne potatoes with a spoon or cutter made purposely, boil in salted wa- ter, drain, and pour over butter sauce made as directed in No. 126 with the ad- dition of two yolks of eg^ to every pint of sauce; serve with fish. 671— MASHED POTATOES. To make good mashed potatoes milk, cream or butter are not absolutely neces- sary; vigorous pounding and mashing will make the potatoes light and white. Of course they will be better if milk, cream or butter is added, but do not put in the seasoning until the potatoes are perfectly smooth, without a lump, and very white. 672— BRUSSEL SPROUTS. Brussel sprouts are a species of cabbage that grow on a tall stem about the size of apples. They are considered superior to cabbage and are cooked in all the ways prescribed for it, 673— STEWED BUTTER BEANS. Throw the butter beans into a sauce pan of water that is already boiling; they will be done in about half an hour if young, green beans; drain the water off and pour over a little cream, butter and salt; may be thickened or not as desired. 674— STEWED CUCUMBER. Pare two cucumbers, cut them in thick slices and boil in water to which j^ou have added a basting spoonful of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt; when they have boiled gently for fifteen minutes take off and drain. Have ready one-half pint of cream sauce, beat in two yolks of eggs, add the juice of half a lemon; pour this over the cucumber. 675— CAULIFLOWER AND CREAM. Boil the cauliflower in salted water un- til it is tender, it must not boil very hard otherwise it destroys the appearance of the cauliflower; when the stem is tender it is done; drain them carefully and dish up with a spoonful of cream sauce poured over each portion. 676— ROASTED CORN. Roast ears of tender sweetcorn a half hour, shave the corn off the cob and sea- son it with a little butter, salt, pepper, milk or cream. 677— CORN AND TOMATOES. Cut the corn from the cob, or use canned corn; instead of milk put in stewed tomatoes; salt and pepper. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 103 678— SWEET TOMATOES. Peel and put them in a pan with sugar enough to cover, and bake in a slow oven; the sugar will melt and dry down to syrup; serve for dinner as a vegetable. 679— FRESH CORN PUDDING. 1 pint of fresh corn grated off the cob. 2 yolks of eggs. Teacupful of milk. Piece of butter the size of a lemon. Salt and white pepper. Mix all these ingredients together and bake in a pan; when light brown it is ready to serve. 680— BROWN CARROTS. Boil the carrots until they are tender, drain and put them in a pan in the oven with a cup of roast pork fat, dredge them ■with salt and white pepper and bake them light brown. ■ ^ 681— FRIED CARROTS. Cut the carrots in long strips, boil them in salted water until they are tender, drain, roll in flour, and fry in hot lard. 682— STEWED CARROTS. Best when the carrots are young; split the crrrots lengthwise and boil in salted water until tender; drain and ser\'e in a sauce made as directed in No. 140. 683— BEET GREENS. The leaves of young beets; carefully wash and steep in cold water an hour be- fore cooking; when ready throw them in a kettle of boiling water to which you have added a quarter teaspoonful of bak- ing soda; they will cook in about thirty- five minutes, drain, and season with salt and very fat salt pork cut in dice and fried. 684— SUCCOTASH. Com and beans mixed in equal quanti- ties and seasoned with milk, butter, salt and pepper. Any kind of garden beans can be used, but if these are not available use green canned lima beans. 685— HOT SLAW. 1 head of white cabbage. 14, cup of vinegar. % cup of water. 2 yolks of e>3gs. I tablespoonful of butter. A teaspoonful of salt. Shred the cabbage fine; mix the yolks with the water; put all the ingredients in the sauce pan and place this into another sauce pan containing hot water, stir oc- casionally until it reaches the boiling point, but it must not boil; put in the cabbage; when hot, add a pinch of white pepper and a tablespoonful of sugar. Another way of making hot slaw is to shred the cabbage fine and boil it, drain and season with vinegar, butter, salt and pepper. 686— FRIED HOMINY. Make hominy mush in the usual way, pour it out in a shallow pan and cool, when cold cut in slices, roll them in flour and fry light brown. Good to serve vdth fish, game or chicken. 6S7— KOHL-RABI. A light green turnip or swelled cabbage stalk growing above ground, pare and cut in large dice, cook as you would turnip; drain, serve with a white sauce. 688— COLD STRING BEANS. Cut the beans down the whole length, shredding them, boil until done, drain, and cool, pour over enough oil to make them shine, add salt, pepper and vinegar, shake them up and serve on a leaf of let- tuce. 689— DRIED LIMA BEANS. Soak one-half pint of dry lima beans in cold water for a few hours, boil them about an hour; drain, and season with cream, butter, salt and pepper, or again with bacon cut in very small dice stewed I04 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. with the beans. A pinch of bicarbonate of soda may be added to facilitate the boiling. 690— POTATOES BAKED IN MILK. Cut thin slices of raw potatoes into a tin baking pan, add part of a green on- ion, season with salt and pepper and piece of butter, and just enough milk to cover, bake slowly in the oven until the milk is all boiled down as thick as cream and brown on top. 691— BOILED RICE WITH CREAM. Wash half a cup of rice and put it to boil in a cup of water with the steam shut in; when nearly dry add a half pint of milk and a half teaspoouful of salt; when done mix in some fresh cream. .^ 692— SUMMER SQUASH. Should always be steamed so as to cook as dry as possible to allow the addition of milk or cream. Shave off the outside very thin and cut the squash in large pieces, takeout the entire core; imlessthe squash is very young, steam twenty-five minutes or a little more according to size of squash ; mash and let simmer or dry a little more; add cream, salt and pepper. 693— CREAMED CABBAGE. Boil the cabbage in the usual way, chop it, season and serve a spoonful of the cabbage with white sauce poured over. 694— FRIED CABBAGE. A good wa}' to use cabbage left over; chop and put in a little additional sea- soning and fry it in a little butter. 695— GREEN PEAS. Green peas should not take more than half an hour to cook, otherwise they are really not worth eating. They will pre- serve their color better if cooked in hard water; have the water boiling when vou put the peas in, add a little salt and boil gently until done. It should not be nec- essary to use soda, but if the peas are old they will cook quicker by using it. Drain off all the water and season with cream, butter; salt and white pepper. 696— BOILED SEA KALE. Trim off the root, wash in plenty of water to free from grit, boil in salted wa- ter about twenty minutes, drain and sea- son with salt and melted butter. 697— BOILED ONIONS. Boil the onions in plenty of water in a granite dish, strain, and pour cream sauce over or hot milk, butter, salt and white pepper. 698— STRING BEANS. Throw the beans in water that is already boiling, put in a pinch of soda and boil an hour; cut them up and season with salt pork minced very fine fried with- out changing color, and white pepper. 699— SWEET POTATOES. Can be baked, steamed, candied or fried. They can be fried when raw, or what remains of the steamed sweet pota- toes; cut them in slices quarter of an inch thick and full size of the potato, fry them carefully in lard that is not hot enough to blacken them. They are better when first steamed then fried. 700— FRIED EGG PLANT. Slice the egg plant without paring, boil the slices a few minutes in salted water, drain them, while still warm, dust with pepper, dip the slices in flour and fry in a little sweet drippings or clarified butter; must be served hot. 701— BROWNED SWEET POTATOES. Boil the sweet potatoes, drain them, put in a pan, dredge over with salt and baste -wnth butter, bake light brown. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 105 702— STEWED TURNIPS. Turnips should be pared thick, as the rind contains a strong, disagreeable fla- vor; boil them in salted water until ten- der, drain and cut in cubes, pour cream sauce over, sprinkle with minced parsley; or they can be mashed and seasoned with butter, salt, white pepper and vinegar. 703— TO CURL CELERY. Slit the top evenly with a sharp potato knife and set the celery in glasses of ice- water; leave on enough of the green tops so they will have a nice appearance; slit them evenly, as they will curl outward as far as the cut extends, and will have a better appearance if of uniform length. 704— WATERCRESS. Watercress seems to be for no justifia- ble reason ; a greater favorite among for- eigners than Americans; still it is very plentifully cultivated and indigenous to our mountain streams. We have given many directions how to serve it and for garnishing in this book, but it may be used as a relish if carefully picked, the stems trimmed and served with salt. a« 705— RADISHES. The radishes should be cleaned and left in ice-water some time before serving; they appear very well mixed with olives, or cut in thin slices and served on a leaf of lettuce. 706— CUCUMBERS. Cucumbers should be sliced and steeped in ice-water some time before they are served; drain them out and strew with pounded ice, or they may be served with tomato sliced very then and placed alter- nately in the dish. 707— GREEN ONIONS. Still seem to be in great demand, also the large white Spanish onion, sliced in vinegar. They will be improved if sliced some time before they are served and steeped in ice-water mixed with vinegar. 708— COLD BEETS. Boil them until tender, slice them very thin and put in jars with vinegar and a few caraway seeds. 709— TOMATOES. Serve them plain, sliced with pounded ice strewed over. They may be sent to the table with sliced cucumbers and on- ' ions and a side dish of mayonnaise. Galantines; Patties^ Cold Dishes^ Sandwiches* 710— ASPIC JELLY. Aspic jelly is very essential to the mak- ing of a variety of cold dishes, in fact the success of many of them depends alto- gether upon good aspic jelly ; proper- ly made it will keep several days on ice. ID lbs. of calves' feet, first joints of pigs' feet, old fowls, beef shins. I Yz gallons of water. Boil gently for fourteen hoiirs then add I small onion. }4 oi a turnip. I carrot. A small half teaspoonful of cloves. A tablespoonful of pepper and salt mix - ed. The juice of three lemons. The whites of four eggs. Other meats and bones may be used outside those named, but these are pref- erable as they contain more gelatinous matter than the ordinary soup material; they should be boiled in a boiler having a double bottom, if this is not procurable or not handy, put a granite pie-plate or an ordinarj' dinner plate in the bottom; put in the cold water and bring it to a boil and skim off all that rises; put on a tight cover and let it simmer fourteen hours or more; by that time it will be reduced to a little more than one-half the quantity of water first put in and will set when cold. The vegetables and other seasonings should be added after the stock has boiled six hours; strain through a napkin all that is in the boiler, skim the fat and let it boil down to two quarts, set to cool and take off the fat from the top; there must not be the least particle left. Melt the jelly, put in the lemon juice, add all the whites of eggs and shells with a cupful of ice-water and whip a moment, boil very gently for about half an hour. If the whites of eggs are not well cooked it gives the jelly a milky appearance, if it boils sufficiently the whites get hard and the jelly will strain clear. Do not try to dispense with the lemon in making aspic jelly; the object of the lemon is that the acid cuts the jelly and allows it to run through the flannel or jelly bag. The aspic is then ready to cool; it may be cooled on plates colored with caramel, beet juice, etc., and stamped out in fancy shapes for dec- orating purposes. 7n— AROMATIC SALT NO. U I oz. of ground nutmeg. I oz. of ground mace. I oz. ground thyme. I oz. ground basil. I oz. ground cloves. I oz. ground white pepper. j4 teaspoonful ground bay leaves. 8 lbs. of fine salt. Mix thoroughly and put into fruit jars; carefully sealed, it will keep for years and always be ready for use in making various cold dishes. 7 12- AROMATIC SALT NO. 2. I oz. ground sage. I oz. ground thyme. I oz. ground marjoram. I oz. ground mace. I oz. ground cloves. I oz. ground nutmeg. X teaspoonful of ground bay leaves. X teaspoonful of rosemary. 1 oz. white pepper. 8 ft)s. salt. Mix thoroughly and seal in fruit jars ready for use. 7J3— GALANTINE DE POULET. 2 large fowls. I corned tongue. j!^ lb. of fat salt pork. 5 hard-boiled eggs. A teacupful of aspic jelly. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 107 Aromatic salt No. i for seasoning. . Take the chicheus unopened, wash them and singe, then bone by cutting the skin down the whole length of the back close to the backbone with a sharp pointed knife, cutting close to the bone until the hip joint and wing joints are reached, then cut partially around, and with the butt end of the carving-knife chop through the joints, cut a little far- ther and loosen all along. The whole backbone can then be taken out as far as the joints, leaving the wings and breast to be boned. Bone the wing and drumstick almost to the end joint, then chop this off, as it is to be tucked in the body; take out the brea.st bone. Care must be exer- cised at the point of the breast where the skin is almost attached to the top of the breast-bone; cut into the bone a little rather than to risk cutting through the skin ; this is the part that will show the most in the galantine. When boned lay them skin downward on the table, season with aromatic salt No. 1. Have the tongue ready cooked, cut this in strips the size of a pencil and as long as possible, then the fat pork cut likewise; lay these length- wise on the boned fowl, cutting into the thickest parts of the meat so as to lay the pork and tongue alternately and as evenly as possible; cut the eggs in slices and lay them evenly among the strips, then strew over some of the aspic jelly. Bone the other fowl likewi.se; this should be smaller than the first descrilied, dou- ble this up carefully and lay inside the other fowl, the breast being at the oppo- site end of the other, bring the two edges of the outside fowl together and .sew it up with twine, moisten a cloth with olive oil and wrap up the galantine in it with a good many wraps, sew it up .securely and tie with twine; boil this in soup stock with the fowls' bones and a bunch of soup vegetables added. There should be no heavy seams in the cloth as it will leave marks on the galantine after it is pressed. Four hours is not too much to boil an old fowl. Stuff as described in this recipe. Of course if they are young ones they will boil in half the time. When done remove the kettle and place it where it will cool without removing the galantine; when cold enough to han- dle take it up and place it in a deep mold or pan of some sort, or if not to be deco- rated, between two large platters and put a weight on top, such as a twenty-five pound butter-tub or half a sack of flour. There is a special mold made to cool these galantines and if used the galan- tines will look a good deal better. They may be set on ice to cool; when perfectly cold warm the shape or mold in which they have been placed in press, take out the galantine, remove the cloth, wipe neatly with a cloth dipped in hot water, and trim off any discolored or protruding portions. Galantines are served sliced or whole and decorated as described in part five of this book. 7 J4— CAVIARE. Caviare is a preparation made of stur- geon roe; as soon as caught they are opened and the rocs taken out, rubbed through a sieve, salted and preserved in some special way. It is generally bought in cans ready for use, in which form they are as black as trvrffles. They can be warmed a little in softened butter and served on toast, or used for flavoring mayonnaise to serve with fish, and again to ornament by forcing through a tube, more details of which can be seen in part five of this book. 7I5-GALANTINE OF GOOSE. 1 large goose. 2 ducks. i/^ lb. of white bread crumbs. I onion. 5 hard-boiled eggs. % cupful of melted butter. 3 raw eggs. Yz pint of aspic jelly. 5 teaspoonfuls of aromatic salt No. 2. Pick the meat from the ducks, cut it in small dice as you would chicken for sal- ad, cut the boiled eggs and onion like- wise, mix all together, put in the season- ing, moisten with the raw eggs and melted butter; bone the goose as directed in recipe No. 713; fill the boned goose with this force-meat, strew the jelly over and proceed as directed for galantine of chicken; cool, and serve plain or deco- rated. io8 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 7I6-FOIES GRAS EN JELLY. ^ lb. of chicken livers. Yz lb. of calf's liver. The white meat of one chicken. ^ lb. of fat salt pork. 2 ozs. of bread panada. I small, red, corned tongue. I can of truffles. 1 cupful of fresh mushrooms. 4 raw yolks of eggs. A small teacupful of Madeira or Amon- tillado. 2 tablespoonf uls of aromatic salt No. i . The livers must be free of gall stains, let them remain all night in ice-water; melt the fat pork without scorching in a saucepan, add all the livers cut very small, cook about five minutes stirring all the time, the livers must be just cook- ed; when done pound these to a paste, rub through a sieve, cut the tongue in small dice, the mushrooms and truffles likewise and mix them as evenly as pos- sible in the liver paste. Cover the bot- tom of a mold with very thin slices of salt pork, put in the paste, then more slices of salt pork on top; set the mold in a pan of water, put it in the oven and bake two hours; when done let it get cold in the mold, dip that in hot water and turn it out, take off all the fat, then smooth the paste with a hot knife; glaze or cover with jelh', or ornament as directed for Galantine en Bellevue. 717— GALANTINE DE BECASSDMES. Prepare a forcemeat of 6 ozs. of lean cold roast pork. 6 ozs. of chicken meat. ID ozs. of fresh fat pork. Season witli a teaspoonful of Aromatic Salt No. I, pound to a paste through a sieve; then cut in small dice: A small red corned tongue or one-half a large one. Yz lb. of chicken livers previously boiled for ten minutes. Yz lb. of cooked salt pork, as much of lean cooked ham. I can of truffles. I can of mushrooms. A level tablespoonful of Aromatic Salt No. I. Yz glass of old Sherry. When these are all cut into small dice sprinkle the aromatic salt and the wine over and mix them lightly. Bone a dozen quails, proceeding as directed for Galan- tine of Chicken No. 713; when ready put them on the table, skin downwards, wipe dry and clean, cut some of the meat from the breast and lay it over the thin parts, then spread over the inside of the quails a little of the forcemeat paste, over that a layer of the dice cut mixture, then fold up the quails to their original shape, sew them up and wrap them in a slice of fat salt pork; these must now be cooked in little pans made of granite ware, either round or oval, large enough so the liquid or gravy will come above the quails; press the galantines each separately in the pans, pour over each a tablespoonful of melted butter, as much of meat glaze, then cover each one with a paste made of flour and water as directed in No. 252. Set these pans in a shallow pan contain- ing hot water and bake in the oven for an hour and a quarter, when done remove the paste covering, when partly cooled press them by setting another pan of the same size over each one of the galantines with a weight on top; when cold take the galantines from the mold, remove the covering of bacon, trim and decorate them, or use them for making ballottines or other ornamental dishes as directed in Part V. 718— TETE DE COCHON FARQ. Split a pig's head beginning at the crown; it must not be fat, but that of a young porker. Bone the head, wash it very carefully and let it lie two days in corned beef brine made as directed in No. 375; when ready take the head from the pickle, wash it in cold water, cut off the ears and any discolored portions; lay the head on the table, shin downward, slice off some of the meat from the thick parts and lay over some of the thin parts. Have ready four pounds of sausage, one-half dozen of pigs' tongues pickled in the com beef brine and two pounds of fat salt pork; spread some sausage meat over the halves, cut the tongue and fat pork in strips the size of a pencil and lay them alternately on the sausage crosswise of the head. I'RArj'ICAI, AND ARTIvSTiC COOKKUY. 109 cover tilt* 8tri])H with a layer of Ihc sriii- WiK**! roll tip*^'*^' 'lalvcK lij^litly, l>tniiiiiiii}> nt the narrowest eiul, tlie H)ll luii.sl he of an even IhiekiieKH from one end to the other so when eut it will nppenr nieely mixed and even; tie np in white cotton and Hew it Heenreiy, hoil six and a half hourH in a boiler lar^re enough ho that the roll will he eonipletely covered; when resH in any kind of pan or mold that is handy. Do not use any fat heads, or if yon must dos<», remove idl the fat or else add as much of corned tonjj;ue, lean boiled ham, or boiled beef. 72J PETITS PATES DE FOIES DE POULETS. 14. 1^>. of chicken livers. ^ lb. of clear fat salt ]K>rk. % cooked corne- tightly and boil in seasoned stock three and a half hours; cool and proceed as di- rected for galantine of chicken. PRACTICAI. AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Ill 728-BONED TURKEY IN ASPIC JELLY. Warm the mold and take out the boned turkey, remove the cloth, draw out the thread, wipe off the fat with a towel dipped in hot water, and shave off any discolored portions; stamp out with a vegetable cutter shapes from a thick green pickle and a pickled red beet, place these on the bottom of the mould from which the turkey was taken, which has been well washed and dried, and replace the turkey; this will leave a small space un- der the turkey, allowing the jelly to thoroughly coat it. Have nice aspic jelly ready and pour it in the dish all around the turkey; when perfectly cold turn out of the mold. May be sent to the table whole or thinly sliced with some of the jelly served with it. 729— GALANTINE, ANOTHER WAY. I large fat fowl. 6 ozs. salt pork. As much of butter. 1 cupful of white bread crumbs. 2 raw eggs. 4 hard boiled eggs. Yz pint of melted aspic jelly. Juice of a lemon. Aromatic salt No. i. Pick the white meat from the fowl and pound it to a paste, mix in the fat salt pork, the pepper, salt, bread crumbs and butter. Mix the raw eggs with the aspic jelly and add the juice of the lemon, moisten the forcemeat with this. Have a turkey or chicken ready boned as directed elsewhere; slice meat from the thick parts to cover over the thin ; dredge a little aromatic salt over this, and strew over the turkey halt of the dark meat cut in small slices, then half of the forcemeat and the yolks of the hard boiled eggs cut in slices, then the rest of the minced dark meat, and over that spread the remainder of the forcemeat, the yolks of the hard boiled eggs cut in slices, and the rest of the dark meat; bring up the two edges of the turkey or fowl together, wrap in a cloth and boil as directed for Galantine de Poulet. 730— TRANCHES DE GALANTINE EN JELLY. Coat the side of a fancy mold with clear aspic jelly — for details of this ope- ration see Part V. Line it with slices of turkey or chicken galantine, one slice slightly overlapping the other, in the center put a boned bird; fill up with jelly; turn it out on a standard or stand and decorate it as elaborately as you wish. 73 J -BONED CHICKEN. Proceed exactly as in recipe No. 713. ,^ 732— CORNED BEEF IN JELLY. Boil a roll of boneless corned beef, the streaked kind preferred; when cold cut in slices and lay these on a large platter, pour over enough aspic jelly to just cover them; when cold cut out slices of beef and jelly with a tin cutter, place these on the dish they are to be served on, and garnish with parsley. 733-CORNED BEEF IN JELLY, ANOTHER WAY. Cook any part of good, red, corned beef until tender, cut it in little squares, drop these in small muffin tins and fill with aspic jelly; when cold turn out and deco- rate with parsley. 734-COLD BOILED ROUND OF BEEF. A splendid dish for Sunday school pic- nics or outdoor entertainments. Corn a whole round of beef, let it remain in the brine fifteen days, then wash it and re- move the center bone. Cut strips of fat salt pork as thick as your thumb and lard the beef with these, using a narrow pointed carving knife to make the incis- ions and a pencil instead of a larding needle, attaching the end of the strip of pork to that of the pencil, fill the cavity in the center with a piece of beef cut to fit it; roll the round tightly in a stout cloth, sew it up and boil eight hours; when done press it in a lard or butter tub with a heavy weight on top; when cold remove the cloth and wipe with a towel dipped in hot water; place this on PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. a large wooden dish and trim it with parsley and cut wild flowers. 735— SPICED BEEF ROLL. Secure a slice of beef cut two inches thick from the round, cover the top with thin slices of salt pork; roll up and tie securely and keep in spiced pickles for two weeks, then boil till tender and serve cold. 736— PICKLE FOR SPICED MEAT. I gallon of water. I oz. saltpeter. 1 K). of salt. 2 basting spoonfuls of brown sugar. 1 oz. whole black pepper bruised. 2 ozs. of mixed spices. 4 bay leaves. Tie the spices in a small cotton bag and put them in a keg or jar and pour the hot brine over; good for beef, lamb's tongue, etc. 737— PIG'S HEAD GALANTINE. Take a small pig's head, cut off with a good deal of the neck attached, scrape and singe clean; bone it carefully by begin- ning at the throat and cutting close to to the bone until the skull is all removed; let it remain in pickle five days,take it out, wash and stuff it with strips of red tongue, salt pork and chicken or turkey force- meat, season with aromatic salt No. 2. Give to the head its natural shape as much as possible; sew all the apertures with twine, roll it up in bands of cloth and sew up securely; boil six hours in stock seasoned with vegetables, the juice of a lemon and a tablespoonful of aro- matic salt No. 2; when done let it cool in the liquor it has boiled in urtil it is cold enough to handle easily; remove the cloth and bind the head again with bands of cloth, drawing it to its natural shape, set the ears up with pieces of split wood. When cold remove the bandage and twine with which you have sewed the cuts, wipe with a towel dipped in hot water; glaze or coat it with aspic jelly. 738— PATES OR RAISED PIES. Are made with a form of rich crust filled with anything that is good to eat cold. They may be filled with boned chicken, turkey, duck or goose prepared as directed for galantines, potted quail, minced ham, or any other of the cold dishes herein mentioned. Make a short paste of one part of butter to two of flour with a little salt and milk, knead it smooth and compact; put in a bottom crust one- half inch thick and line the sides of a raised pie mold, brushing the lower edge with milk and pressing it to the bottom piece, fill the pie, put on the top crust, pinch the edges and trim neatly, leaving a hole in the middle, stamp out leaf shapes for a border with the remain- ing crust, put these over the top, brush with beaten egg; put a buttered paper on a baking pan, set the dish on this and place another buttered paper over the top and outside of the mold, bake in a slack oven three or four hours; pour some melted aspic jelly in the hole left in the middle, and serve when perfectly cold. 739— PATE DE BECASSINES AU TRUFFLES. Prepare a mold of crust as directed in No. 73S, line the edges with liver paste made as directed in No. 721; fill the re- maining space with galantines No. 717, and proceed exactly as directed for cold raised pies. 740— SANDWICHES. Sandwiches can be made with any kind of cold meat, fowl or poultry, caviares, cheese, and in fact everything that is good eaten cold. The standard sandwich is two thin slices of bread with a thin slice of meat, or something equivalent, between with the slices of bread of even size and thickness; the bread should be of close, uniform texture, the inner sur- face of bread spread with butter and mustard, and salt and pepper if suitable. If making cheese sandwiches, grate the cheese and use plain thin biscuit instead of bread. For sweet sandwiches use jel- lies or marmalades, selecting the variety according to your taste. Lettuce sand- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 113 ■wiches are made by spreading the slices of bread with mayonnaise instead of but- ter, with a crisp leaf of lettuce between. When sandwiches are made for a party, picnic, or other social functions, pile the sandwiches as they are made, trim the edges and cut square across making tri- angular shapes, they should be of even size, piled up and covered with a dampened napkin. Delicious sandwiches are made of potted ham, quail, galantine and other cold dishes described in this book. French rolls made flat are very nice to make sandwiches for out-door parties, as they do not become dry so quickly. A recipe for sandwich rolls will be found in the Pastry Department of this book. 741— SHRIMP SANDWICHES. Pound together a cup of shrimps, a seasoning of mayonnaise, a teaspoonful of anchovy paste, as much of lemon juice, and salt to taste. Cut very thin slices of brown bread, butter them lightly and spread the mixture on them ; press another slice on top and cut in finger lengths. 742— SANDWICH AU CAVIARE. Take a spoonful of Russian caviare, add to it a teaspoonful of minced onion, a tablespoonful of butter and the juice of half a lemon; work these together to a paste, and spread on thin slices of bread, press them together and cut in shape. 743— RIBBON SANDWICHES. See Artistic Department. 744— OLIVE OIL. The olive oil which is used in the mak- ing of salad dressings should be as nearly tasteless as possible. Imported Italian oil is certainly the best if it has been properly kept. Large quantities of oil now come from California; it is very good and preferable to imitations made of cot- ton seed, which should be discarded. Olive oil has a slightly green tinge and a fruity flavor. Oil that has the least ran- cid taste should not be used as it will never give satisfaction, even with the ad- mixture of the best compound vinegar. 745— HORS D'OEUVRES. (Appetizers). Cold side dishes; small things eaten as a preliminary to a good dinner; a French custom having for its object to create an appetite for something of a more substan- tial nature. Opinions are greatly divided on the subject and no standard of form can be laid in regard to the serving of the Hors d'Oeuvres. At many club dinners of social importance the author has seen Hors d'Oeuvres served after meals with the cheese. The Hors d'Oeuvres emi- nently American is probably a half dozen of delicious Blue Points served on the half shell with quarters of lemon, or small clams served in the same way. The list of Hors d'Oeuvres or appetizers is end- less; persons of ingenuity create these little things every day, so we will content ourselves with giving a list of the most popular and appropriate. 746— SARDINES AU PARMESAN. Make narrow strips of thin buttered toast, grate Parmesan or Switzer cheese over and lay a sardine over each. 747— PETITS CANAPES DE SAR- DINES. Split the sardines, lay them on pieces of fried bread cut in oblong pieces to fit the sardines; pour over this a sauce made of equal parts of oil, vinegar and prepar- ed mustard. 748— CROUTES AU ANCHOIS. Make very small baking powder bis- cuits, not larger than a fifty cent piece^ bake them so they will not touch each other; slice off the top crust and scoop out the inside and fill them with a force- meat made of equal quantities of chopped lean ham, anchovies, gherkins and truf- fles, replace the top and cover with Re- moulade as directed in No. 660. 749— BEURREES DE CAVIARE. Make thin slices of toast, cut in star or crescent shape; open a box of Russian caviare and warm in in a pan with a little 114 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. butter, spread this on the toast and serve on a bed of watercress, or a leaf of crisp lettuce. 750— TARTINES D'ANCHOIS. Make extremely thin Virginia beaten biscuit as directed elsewhere in this book and spread them with a paste made of equal amounts of anchovies, yolks of hard boiled eggs, nasturtium or capers, and parsley; garnish with small sprigs of pars- ley and radishes cut like blossoms. 751— SARDINES A IvA CREOLE. Dip sardines in oyster cocktail catsup or rich tomato sauce high spiced; lay these on buttered toast, and garnish with heart shaped leaves of lettuce. 752— STUFFED OLIVES. Stone the olives and stuff them with anchovies or sardines pounded to a paste. Fry small rounds of bread, spread these with mayonnaise, lay the stuffed olives on this and serve on a bed of shredded lettuce. 753— ARLETS AU SAUCISSONS. Cut rounds of brown bread, spread them with fresh butter, then sprinkle with finely chopped onion, lay a thin slice of potted quail on top, dash of pepper sauce; garnish with parsley. 754— PAPILLOTTES OF POTTED TONGUE. Make a paste of equal parts of Russian caviare, potted tongue and anchovies; butter very thin strips of bread and roll up some of the paste in it; spread a leaf of lettuce in an individual dish, then a bed of thinly sliced radishes, and lay two of the popillottes on top. 755— CANTALOUPE WITH SALT. Another innovation is to serve canta- loupes cut in small squares, with salt and pepper. 756— EGGS STUFFED WITH ANCHOVIES. Hard boiled eggs cut in halves, the yolks removed and pounded with an equal amount of anchovy paste, replaced in the whites, and served on thin slices of buttered bread; garnish as usual. ^ 757- SALAD D'AMANDES AU CAVIARE. Blanch a cupful of almonds and crush them slightly, add a can of Russian Caviare and as much of fine bread crumbs; mince the whole very fine, add a few drops of lemon juice and serve a spoonful on a crisp leaf of lettuce. 758— CROUSTADES AU SALPICON. Make very tiny shells of rice as directed in No. 624; fill them with any kind of salpicon,a forcemeat highly seasoned with aromatic salt No. i and walnut catsup, fill the cases and serve them on a bed of watercress, lettuce or endive. 759— FOIES GRAS DE POULETS. ^ lb. of chicken livers. As much of calf's liver. The meat of one medium sized chicken. 20 ozs. of salt pork. A teacupful of white bread crumbs steeped and squeezed dry. A small corned tongue. I can of truffles. 3 raw yolks of eggs. A teacupful of Amontillado or good or- dinary sherry. Aromatic salt No. i for seasoning. Steep the livers in cold water about twelve hours; cut the fat pork in very small dice and melt it in a saucepan, add all the liver cut very small and the chicken meat; cook just enough to change the color of the liver through, put in the aro- matic salt and pound it to a paste in the mortar, and mix in the bread panada, the yolks of eggs, wine, and rub this paste through a sieve; a half cup of cooked corned beef fat cut into small dice, then the red tongue and truffles likewise, mix this in the paste. Cover the bottom of an earthen baking dish with thin slices of PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. ii5 salt pork, then put in the liver paste with some more of the thin slices of pork on top; set the dish in another pan of water and cover with a buttered paper and bake about two hours, when cold dip the bak- ing dish in hot water, and turn it over so as to drop the liver paste in a nice loaf; scrape the fat and smooth it over with a hot knife; ornament it any wa)' suitable for galantines, as directed iu Part V. 760— JAMBALAYA. 2 small chickens. I cup of rice. I pint of thick stewed tomatoes. I large onion. % cup of butter. 2 slices of ham. I minced red pepper. Salt. Cut each chicken into four portions, flatten these with a blow of the broad side of the cleaver, dredge -with salt and pep- per and fry them in butter a nice brown, \ keep hot in the open oven ; boil the rice in salted water fifteen minutes; fry the minced onion in a saucepan with a half cup of butter until it just turns yellow, put in the ham cut in large dice, then the tomatoes and rice previously drained, sea- son with the minced red pepper and salt, simmer till the rice is tender and the con- tents of the saucepan are thick enough for a spoon to stand in. r^t^t^t^t^t^ CHINESE, ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, GREEK, DUTCH, i Mi Si ITALL\N, ^ ^ ^ ^ JEWISH, c^ DISTINCTIVE NATIONAL ^ COOKERY^*^ 6^ i JAPANESE, ^ ^ MEXICAN, 1 PORTUGUESE, ^ RUSSL\N, SCOTCH, SPANISH,TURKISH Distinctive National Cookery* 761— CHINESE COOKERY. The Chinese method of cookery and restaurant keeping can be seen to better advantage in New York and San Fran- cisco than anywhere else outside of China. Food is cooked in a very pecu- liar manner; round bottom kettles made of very thin iron are used exclusively. The fire is on open brick furnaces with charcoal or dried kindling wood for fuel, and the cooking is done with astonishing rapidity. The food is cut in very small portions and combined with the intense heat of the furnace does startlingly quick cooking. Candied fruit, and other delicacies from Corea, Japan, Tonquin, and Manchooria can be bought at fancy groceries, and these are about all the Chinese edibles that deserve mention. 762— PERFUMED PORK. (Chinese.) Perfumed roast pork is one of the dain- tiest Chinese dishes; the pork is roasted in the usual manner, then hung in the smoke of various aromatic herbs which Cfives it a quaint, delicious flavor; it is cut in small pieces and served with a border of shredded candied ginger. 763— ENGLISH AND FRENCH COOKERY. No distinctive national dish of France and England will be given in this depart- ment, for the book is almost completely made of recipes of both these countries. Plum pudding, roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, roasted hare, mutton in differ- ent styles, etc., etc., will all be found in other parts of this book. See index. 764— BEER SOUP. (German.) Stir together in a saucepan a % lb. each of flour and butter, add gradually two qiiarts of lager, and when this is all in and smooth let it boil slowly on the side of the range a half hour. Put in a small saucepan Yz pint of white wine. I gill of rum. A small piece of ginger root. A small pinch of thyme and savory. 5 ozs. of granulated sugar. Let this come to the boiling point without boiling, skim the fat from the top of the soup, thicken it with ten yolks of eggs mixed with a little cold water; strain the contents of the small sauce pan into the soup and serve with a slice of toast in each plate. 765-CHERRY SOUP. (German.) Stone two pounds of sour cherries; put two-thirds of this in a saucepan with one and a half quarts of hot water, a few sticks of cinnamon and a grated lemon rind; boil fifteen minutes and thicken with two tablespoon fuls of corn starch mixed with a little cold water, let boil slowly ten minutes more, then rub through a fine sieve; put in the rest of the cher- ries, season with salt and a tablespoonful of sugar. Make an infusion of a teacup- ful of red wine and a basting spoonful of crushed cherry stones, strain this infusion iwto the soup, let it cook five minutes longer; and serve with finger biscuits. 766— BOAR'S HEAD, HAMBURGH STYLE. (Dutch.) Scald and scrape a boar's head, boil it an hour, take it out and cool sufficiently to handle, wrap it up in a cloth, then boil it in a pickle made of equal quantities of water and vinegar; when cold remove the PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. cloth and wrap it up again with bands giving it as much as possible its natural form; when cold fill up any defects with butter and glaze it in the usual waj'; set it in a dish surrounded with cubes of aspic jelly of different colors, cut flowers and parsley. Have on the side- in a gravy dish a cold sauce made with a pint of gooseberry jelly, a teaspoonful of dry mustard, a basting spoonful of vinegar, a dust of cayenne, and the grated rind of an orange, beat this together until it is ready to serve. 767-SAUER KRAUT SALAD. (German.) Wash the sauer kraut in cold water. drain it well, and season it with a dressing made of two parts of vinegar, one of oil, salt and pepper to taste. 768— SOUP AGNELOTTI. (Italian.) Make two quarts of Cream of Chicken as directed in No. 38; mince yi ft>. of picked chicken meat with ^ lb. of bread panada, mix in one egg, season with salt and nutmeg and rub through a sieve. Roll out a sheet of puff paste, cut it in small squares, put in a spoonful of the forcemeat, fold it over, pinch the edges; poach in salted boiling water; they will be done in ten minutes; drain them, and serve one or two in each plate of soup. 769— SOUP AU PARMESAN. (Italian.) Take about }^ lb. of flour and % lb. of grated Parmesan cheese, a pinch of salt, a grating of nutmeg and four whole eggs, mix all together thoroughly, then thin it down with three basting spoonfuls of cream. Have ready on the range the soup kettle containing two quarts of good clear consomme; hold the colander over this and put in the cheese paste, stir so it will fall in the boiling broth and let cook slightly about fifteen minutes. 770— JNOQUIS. (Italian.) X lb. of flour. li lb. of cornstarch. 8 yolks of eggs. 2 whole eggs. Stir this together and thin it down with I pint of milk; strain through a fine sieve into a sauce pan, add ^ lb. of fresh but- ter and season with salt, nutmeg and a teaspoonful of sugar. Stir the contents of the saucepan over a moderate fire and let it cook seven or eight minutes, take it off and mix in three basting spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; pour this on a buttered platter so that it will be about half an inch thick, let it cool, then cut out in round shapes about the size of a twenty-five cent piece; put in layers in a baking dish, sprinkle every layer with grated Parmesan cheese and moisten with melted butter, bake in a hot oven ten minutes; should be served on the dish it is baked in. 77I-RAVIOLES. (Italian). 14 ozs. of flour. 5 eggs. % cupful of minced chicken. As much of minced cooked ham. 2 raw yolks of eggs. I lobe of calf's brain cooked. A basting spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese. Nutmeg. Make a dough of the flour and five eggs and two tablespoonfuls of warm water; let this stand a few minutes and make a forcemeat with the chicken, ham, the cooked brain, tw® yolks of eggs and the grated cheese, season with a little salt and a grating of nutmeg. Take half of the dough and roll it out very thin, cut the edges so as to form a perfect square; place small balls of the forcemeat in straight lines over the dough leaving a space of two inches between each line; brush the dough that is exposed between the lines of forcemeat balls with water; roll out the other half of the dough and spread this over the other; trim the edges and press them together with a roller and cut with a sharp knife between all the lines of forcemeat, so as to make small squares, each containing a ball of forcemeat, press the edges of each and PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. I2E boiling water: serve on platters with a generous sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese between each layer, and thick to- mato sauce poured over and around the Ravioles. 772— RISOT. (Italian). Wash carefully a pint of rice; mince a small onion and ivy it in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, then put in one and a half quarts of broth, add a laurel leaf, and boil gently without covering. When the broth is almost evaporated take the saucepan from the range and mix in one-fourth of a teaspoonful of minced red pepper, r cup of tomato sauce, 6 ozs. of butter and the same of grated Parmesan cheese. Put the lid on the saucepan and let it simmer five minutes; serve very hot. 773— POULEINTE. (Italian). Put a quart of water and a half tea- spoonful of salt in a saucepan; when this is boiling add two ounces of com meal, stirring constantly to avoid any lumps, and let cook gently twenty minutes; take it off the fire, pour a thin layer in the dish in which it will be served, cover this over with grated Parmesan cheese, moist- 1 en with a few spoonfuls of good con- somme, and a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce, repeat this until the dish is full, having a layer of grated cheese and to- mato sauce on top. 774— CODFISH FRIED IN OLIVE OIL. (Italian). One pound of fresh codfish cut in small squares, fry lightly in olive oil, drain and put them in a saucepan with just enough tomato sauce to come up level, and let it boil a few minutes; put it on the side of the range and let simmer ten minutes more; season with pepper and salt; ser\^e hot. 775-CROQUETTES PIEMONTAISE. (Italian). Boil % lb. of rice in good soup stock twenty minutes, drain off the stock and let it cook dry at the back of the range; when done mix in i basting spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese and stir on the fire until it is a smooth paste; take off and while it is getting cold make ready a forcemeat of equal parts of calves' or fowls' livers, cooked ham and mush- rooms; moisten with a little brown gravy or Espagnole sauce, make very small rolls of the forcemeat and take a little of the rice preparation, make these into croquettes with the forcemeat balls in the middle; give this a single breading and fry in hissing hot lard. Serve with remoulade or green peas stewed in but- ter. 776— CHICKEN, A LA SICILIENNE. (Italian), Singe and draw a good, plump chicken mince >^tb of calves' liver: fry it in a saucepan with a little butter; season with a teaspoonful of aromatic salt No. i; as soon as it has changed color take it off and mix viith an equal volume of bread panada, two whole eggs and a tablespoon- ful of minced parsley; stuff the chicken, sew it up, tie the legs together and put it in a saucepan with % cupful of scraps of salt pork. 2 minced onions. % dozen cloves of garlic. 4 cut up tomatoes. Put the stuffed chicken on this and enough stock to come over the legs of the chicken ; cook with the steam shut in until tender; take out the chicken, remove the twine, strain and skim the gravy, thicken it with a little browned flour, lay the chicken on the platter with the thick sauce poured over so as to glaze it evenly. Garnish the edges of the plat- ter with fried mushrooms and sprigs of parsley. 777— POLENTA. (Italian). A pint of water. 3 ozs. of coarse corn meal. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. % tb. of grated cheese. yz teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed. A teacupful of cracker meal. Put a little melted butter in a saucepan; PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. make a mush with the water and corn meal in the usual way, let it cook at the back of the range an hour and a half, and stir in one basting spoonful of melted but- ter, the pepper and salt. Put the other basting spoonful of butter in an earthen baking dish, sift half of the cracker meal on that, put in the mush by spoonfuls and smooth over without disturbing the cracker dust in the bottom, then strew the grated cheese over, sift the rest of the cracker meal on top and bake in a brisk oven about thirty minutes. Makes a nice lunch dish when baked in paper cases. 778— RICE AND CABBAGE SOUP. (Italian). Mince the inside of two small summer cabbages, put them in a saucepan with X K*- of minced salt pork and a clove of garlic, put in the saucepan two quarts of warm water or stock, let it boil gently for thirty-five to forty minutes, then sea- son with salt and pepper, put in a quarter pound of rice previously cleaned and washed in three waters, cook half an hour longer, and serve with grated cheese on top. 779— RICE AND RADISH SOUP. (Italian). Slice a pint of radishes— the black rad- ish is preferable— add to this X ^- oi minced salt pork, season with salt and pepper and cover with two quarts of light stock; boil moderately until the radishes are cooked then add one teacup of rice and cook a half hour longer; serve with grated cheese on top. 780-CALF'S LIVER, PRINCE PALERMO. (Italian). Put in a saucepan : 3 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. As much of finely minced onion. 3 cloves of crushed garlic. A leaf of laurel. Fry these a light color, then put in twice the volume of the contents of the saucepan of fresh minced cepes or mush- rooms, .simmer gently until tlie mixture begins to fry, then put in a cup of brown gravy and half cup of sherry; stir the contents over a hot fire five minutes then set it on the side of the range. Cut ^ lb. of calves' liver in thin slices, fry these quickly in a little butter, season with salt and pepper. As soon as it is done, drain and put it in the saucepan, let come to a boil once, take out the laurel leaf, sprinkle with parsley dust, add the juice of half a lemon and serve. 78J— ASPARAGUS WITH PAR- MESAN. (Italian. ) Cook the asparagus in salted water as directed elsewhere in this book; when done, drain t-ery carefully, cut the stems and put a layer of tips on a platter, sprin- kle plentifulh' with grated Parmesan cheese and alternate with asparagus and cheese until all the asparagus you have is on the platter. Melt some butter in a frying pan and let it slightly brown on the fire, pour this over the asparagus in the platter and serve ver}' hot with .shapes or croutons for garnish. 782— TSIRAS. ( Greek Appetizer ) . 2 dozen anchovies. 4 dozen pitted olives. 2 bunches of parsley. 1 basting spoonful of olive oil. 2 basting spoonfuls of lemon juice. Mince the olives, put half of the an- chovies on a small platter, then half of the minced olives, the rest of the ancho- vies and olives; cut the parsley very coarse and strew it on top; mix the oil and lemon juice and pour it over. 783— CRYSTALLIZED ROSE LEAVES. (Greek). X lbs. of fresh rose leaves. I X ^s. of loaf sugar. I gill of water. Dissolve i}{ lbs. of sugar with the wa- ter, boil and skim, keep hot at the side of the range; parb®il the rose leaves, drain them carefully, put them in the syrup and boil ten minutes; make a thick PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 123 syrup of the rest of the sugar with a bast- ing spoonful of water; drain the rose leaves on a sieve, put them in the syrup and stir until it granulates; take up and dry on wax paper. 784-JAPANESE COOKERY. Before the advent of foreigners into j apan the natives were not in the habit of eating animal flesh; their sustenance was mainly drawn, as it is now, from vege- tables and fish — rice and sweet potatoes forming the principal part of their diet. They also consumed a good deal of bar- ley, green corn, fruit of different kinds, and persimmons; this native fruit is now making its appearance all over the world, especially in California; it has much the apearance of tomatoes, but cannot like the latter be picked green; if picked be- fore it is perfectly ripe it has a strongly disagreeable flavor; however it is shipped in small quantities in a dry state, and this has a very pleasant taste. The na- tional dishes of Japan are composed of .articles so difficult to obtain that we must limit the number of recipes, knowing that a greater number given would be imprac- ticable and unnecessary. 785-HACHIMONO. (Japanese.) 2 fbs. of salmon cut in smiall blocks. T bottle of Indian soy. I small lobster. A green cucumber. Stew the pieces of salmon in the soy mixed with its equal volume of water; when done tender put these in a platter with some of the liquor in which it was boiled. Pick the lobster meat in small pieces and shred the cucumber verj- fine, lengthwise, mix with the lobster and put spoonfuls all around the pieces of salmon. ^ 786— JAPANESE SALAD. Boil a half dozen large potatoes in broth seasoned with a bunch of aromatic herbs and a tablespoonful of Indian soy; drain and slice them, and while they are still warm dredge with salt and pepper and two basting spoonfuls of the best olive oil and half as much of vinegar; put in half a teacupful of white wane, half a cupful of aromatic herbs cut very fine (parslej', ciboul, savory and fennel). Steam a pint of mussels, pull out the beard and take out of the shell, and stew them with two stalks of celery; drain them carefully and mix in with the pota- toes and other ingredients. Cook a half can of black truflles, take them out with a fork from the seasoned broth and drop in a glass of champagne; when they are cool .slice them and serve on the top of the salad. Shrimps may be used instead of mussels, but the genuine recipe calls for mussels. ^ 787— CROSNES, (Japanese). Crosnes is a vegetable resembling the Jerusalem artichoke; boil it in salted wa- ter until tender, drain carefully and serve with a sauce made of equal quantities of pounded shrimps and Indi^'.n soy. 788— JEWISH COOKERY. Distinctive national dishes of the Jews are very few, and the only time they be- come noticeable is during the Passover feast — a great feast held by the Jews all over the world to commemorate their de- liverance from Egypt. It occurs some- time in spring before the Christian easter. The law of Moses forbids them any work during these days. The ortho- dox Jews observe this rigorously, but the so called reformed Jews observe only the first and last days. During the Passover all Jews abstain from leavened bread — even pastry containing flour is not par- taken of — but a very fine and palatable potato meal is substituted. They also abstain from any spirituous liquor dis- tilled from grains or malt. While the Jews do not really excel in cookery, per- haps on account of the restrictions in the use of material, credit must be given them for the essentially wholesome character of their cookery, which has led many .stu- dents of Jewish history to believe that the 124 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. laws imposed by Moses, which seem so particularly stringent, were evidently drawn to prevent diseases among the Israelites. The fast itself seems to par- take as much of the nature of a feast as of a fast. It resembles a good deal the fast observed by Christians previous to the feast of Easter, although the restrictions in the case of unleavened bread and pastr>' containing flour is really the only check to a perfect feast. On the eve of the Passover the Jews hold religious services; as soon as these cease there begins a great feast, and these days are looked at by Jews more like a time of rejoicing than a time of penitence, for the author has many times eaten during the Passover period at Jewish tables that were laden with the most expensive delicacies that their religion would allow them. During the time of these feasts all are equal in the Jewish household; servants and em- ployes, rich and poor, all sit at the same table and partake of the same fare. This is to remind them that before their de- liverance from Egypt by Moses they were all slaves and equals. There are many curious obser\'ances which are strictly kept by the Jews, one of the most peculiar being a dish containing a shank of lamb and a root of horseradish with the top on, a bunch of chervil and mustard, cinna- mon, raisins and almonds pounded to- gether to a paste or mortar. The shank of lamb symbolizes the Passover lamb; the bitter herbs recall the hardships and bitterness to which the Jews were subjected during their sojourn in Egypt; the almond paste represents the mortar which the Israelites used in making bricks for the Pharaohs. As the meat must be thoroughly cleansed and healthy the Jews employed a butcher, called a "Sochet." The meats which the "Sochet" kills and brands with his seal is called "Kosher" meat. If the animal which has been killed has the slightest blemish or bruise, even if it does not af- fect the good qualities of the meat, the seal of the "Sochet" is withheld and the supposed unclean article is consumed by Gentiles. Pork is forbidden to the Jews. Many of the events of the last ten years have amply proven the sanitary benefit derived from such a law. 789-SOUP WITH MOTSA. (Jewish). Make a beef broth or soup with a shin of beef and calf's feet. Pieces of turnip, carrot and celery. An onion fried in a piece of butter. A pinch of aromatic herbs. Pepper, salt. Let this simmer six or seven hours, strain and skim the fat very carefully, and make quenelles of: 8 ozs. of crushed motsa (Passover cake). A basting spoonful of minced suet. 3 eggs. Seasoning of salt, pepper and giuger. Work these together by pounding to a paste ; make small balls size of hazelnuts and poach them in some of the soup in a saucepan at the side of the range; serve three or four to each plate of soup. 790— FISH BREADED WITH MOTSA. Salmon, halibut, cod or lake trout; cut into portions, drop the fish in beaten eggs then coat it with crushed motsa in which you have mixed a little salt and pepper; fr}- in olive oil and when cold serve on a bed of parsley. 79J— MOTSA PUDDING. One pound of Passover cake or motsa, soaked in water as you would bread pana- da, squeeze and make up into a pudding with Half pound each of raisins, currants and figs. ^ lb. of suet. J^ lb. of sugar. 4 eggs. A tablespoonful of allspice. Put in a pudding bag and boil three and a half hours. Serve with a sauce made with a pint of water, one-half pound of sugar, and strongly flavor with cinna- mon sticks. 792— PASSOVER CAKE— MOTSA. The Passover cake is made unleavened by working the flour, water and salt to a smooth dough, rolled out thin and baked to crispness. Extraordinary precautions are taken in the selection of the flour, PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 125 this selection being naade by the author- ity, or Rabbi, of diflEerent synagogues. I shall not endeavor to give any further information , thinking it sufficient to men- tion only the principal features concern- ing its preparation. 793— MEXICAN FORTILLAS. Mix a quart of fine corn meal with just enough water to barely moisten it, add enough water to make a thin mush, put in a teaspoonful of salt and drop large spoonfuls of the mixture on the hot grid- dle, spreading with the back of a spoon to form thin cakes. Although the origi- nal recipe does not call for shortening, it will be better if a little is used. 794— BARSCH. (Polish.) 2 lbs. of brisket of beef cut in square pieces. 1 flb. of salt pork. 1 duck previously parboiled a few min- utes to destroy the strong flavor. Put in enough clear beet juice and wa- ter mixed in equal quantities to come up level to the meats. (To obtain clear beet juice, peel beets as you would potatoes, grate or crush them and put in the jar enough tepid w-ater to just cover and leave this to ferment until the liquor is clear, then strain carefully.) Boil moderately and skim all that rises ; when it has boiled for three-fourths of an hour put it on the side of the range and add 2 small onions. 2 leeks. The roots of two heads of celery. A tablespoonful of salt. 12 cloves. Simmer two hours, then add three smoked sausages (imported Frankforts preferred). Take the meats out as they are cooked; when all are done strain the liquor that is left, let it remain on the ta- ble until the fat rises, skim off; add two whites of eggs beaten in a cup of water, and clarify in the usual way. Cut the duck meat in small dice, put this in the bottom of a deep dish with the sausages also cut in pieces, half of the salt pork also cut in pieces and the brisket of beef on top; add a cupful of minced pickled beets and a cupful of mushrooms warmed in butter; strain the broth over this and serve. 795— POLISH CAKE. A pound loaf of nice white cake. 3 cups of pastry cream. A basting spoonful of brandy. The whites of six eggs. Cut the biscuit in slices half an inch thick, spread them with pastry cream to which you have added the brand)', put them back in the same order they were cut, spread the pastry cream over the top and sides, whip the eggs until they fly from the whisk, add a basting spoonful of sugar, a pinch of cream of tartar, whip a moment longer and spread all over the cake, dry in a slack oven fifteen to twenty minutes, but do not give it more than a straw color. 796— KWAS KWAS. (Polish). 5 lbs. of barley, crushed. 5 lbs. of wheat. 5 lbs. of rice. Put these in a keg with enough luke- warm water to cover and let it stand twelve hours; when the water is all ab- sorbed by the cereals add 7 lbs. of rye flour and thin down to the consistency of thick cream with lukewarm water; fill earthen jars with this mixture and bake in a slack oven all night, then pour the contents of the jars in a keg and add twenty quarts of cold water; let it remain thus twenty-four hours, then pour off carefully without disturbing the settlings, into another keg, mix in three cakes of compressed yeast dissolved in a quart of white wine; let it remain seven hours, then decant into another receptacle and bottle; tie the corks like you would gin- ger-pop and let it remain in the cellar ten days. 797-CIERNIKI. (Polish). Rub through a fine sieve >^ lb. of Neuf- chatel cheese; press it so as to get out all the moisture possible, put it in the mix- ing bowl, add ]i lb. of melted butter, 126 PRACTICAI, AND ART [STIC COOKERY. 7 ozs of flour, salt, pepper and iiutineg, stir ill six eggs one at a time, and half a cup of cream, and when this mixture is ready it should have about the consisten- 1 cy of cream puff paste or dough. Flour ' the paslrj- board and drop spoonfuls of the mixture on this, roll them up in balls with the floured hands and poach them in boiling salted water; drain and put them in layers in a small deep dish, spreading a layer half an inch thick of grated Parmesan cheese over each layer; moisten the whole with butter, melted in a pan until it has changed to a light brown color. 798-NALENIKIS. (Polish). Have ready a Neufchatel cheese mix- ture as directed for cierniki; make small portions and roll them up in very thin slices of bacon, dip these in frying batter and fry them in hot lard; when they are a nice brown color drain them and serve on a bed of finely chopped celery. 799— RABBIT WITH SAUER KRAUT. (Poli.sh.) Mince two pounds of sauer kraut, i lb. of salt pork sliced; roast the rabbit and cut it in very thin slices; put in the .saner kraut a basting spoonful of melted butter and three of goose fat; put half of the sauer kraut in a baking dish, on this lay the slices of salt pork, the liquor from the pan in which the rabbits were roasted and the pieces of rabbit, cover them up with the remaining pieces of salt pork and the sauer kraut; bake in a very slack oven about twenty-five minutes; serve in the dish it was baked in. 800-POLISH SCRASIS. Mince i lb. of lean raw beef, remove all the gristle and mix in % lb. of minced suet, one medium sized onion minced, one clove of garlic, salt and pepper; mix these thoroughly, make into balls, roll these iu cracker dust and put them in a saucepan, with just enough water to prevent scorching, cook half an hour with the lid on; cut raw potatoes into cubes, put these in and let boil half an hour more; serve verv hot 801 -SCRASIS AU KASCHE. (Polish.) Cook /+ lb. of kasche (rolled buck- wheat) in salted water, when done drain and mash it with a basting spoonful of minced onion; warm this in a saucepan with a little butter, then let it cool; mince finely i tb. of lean beef, season with salt and pepper; take portions the size of an egg and roll them out thin in regular shapes about three inches in length and two in width, spread on these a layer of the cold kasche, roll up and tie with a piece of thread, put them in a small bak- ing dish closely pressed, put in a little stock, cover with a buttered paper and cook iu a slow oven three-fourths of an hour with frequent bastings; cut off the threads, and serve with a thick gravy made in the pan in which they were cooked; garnish in the usual way. 802— BOUILLON DE LISBON, ( Portuguese ) . 2 lbs. of smoked ham, boil it an hour, throw away the water that it has boiled in, and fill up the kettle with boiling water, then put in a nice fowl and boil slowly until all is very tender; as soon as one or the other of the meats is done, strain, skim the fat and serve with toasted crackers. Keep the meat for entrees. 803 -RUSSIAN COOKERY. Russians consume more soups than the three other largest nations of the world combined; thej' seem to make soup out of every article that can be used as food by civilized people. Among their most favorite the Vesiga and Rossoluick soups should be mentioned. The first named con- tains a substance of a gelatinous nature that envelopes the backbone of the stur- geon ; it can be bought in the dry state and resembles isinglass. Among the follow- ing recipes will be found details for the preparation of this soup. Russian cook- ery has become a fad in Paris since the PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 127 late visit of the czar, and the ratification of the Russian-PVanco treaty. This fad has partially extended to England and indirectly to America. Many Russian dishes deserve a good deal of attention. J* 804-VEAL COTELETTES. (Russian). Take ten veal chops, trim and scrape the bone, dredge with salt and pepper and roll them in flour, fry them in butter, turn them over several times until they are a nice brown; when done put in just enough stock to come up level. When ready to serve, take out the chops, .slip a cuff on each bone, season and thicken the gravy and put in a cupful of minced green gherkins, serve a spoonful with every chop. 805— WATROUSCHKISIS. Wrap in a clean cheese cloth 12 ozs. of cream cheese, put a weight on it and let stand five hours, then pound it in a mor- tar with 'X lb. of butter, season with salt and nutmeg; put the mixture in a bowl, add one whole egg and five yolks, mix smooth with a spoon. Roll out a thin sheet of puff paste, cut in round shapes with a biscuit cutter, put a .spoonful of the cheese mixture in the middle, gather the edges, pinching at regular intervals form- ing a kind of tartelete; touch the edges of the puff pa.ste with a brush dipped in beaten eggs and bake ten minutes in a quick oveu. 806— VESICA SOUP. (Russian.) For two quarts of clear consomme use one pint of vesiga which has soaked in water three hours, then boil it in light stock until quite tender, cut it into pieces a half inch long, put it in the consomme with the addition of one pint of fancy shapes of carrot and turnip. 807-ROSSOLNICK. (Russian.) Cut six large salted cucumbers into lozenge size, boil them in water until they are tender. Boil in a separate sauce- pan a cupful of parsley root and as much of celery cut in pieces. Prepare three quarts of chicken broth and when ready put in the cucumbers, parsley root, celery and a cut-up chicken. Thicken with eight yolks of eggs and add a cupful of rich cream; season to taste and serve very hot. Jit 808-ZULUSKA. (Russia»i Ilors d'Oeuvres. ) Consi.sts of caviare, herrings, anchovies, smoked goo.se, sausage and cheese. The goose is pickled like corn beef, then smoked like ham. These delicacies are con.sidered essential to a good dinner in Russia and are generally accompanied by a glass of Vodka, which is a kind of cor- dial somewhat resembling Kummel. 809-TOURTE OF SALMON. (Russian.) Make a forcemeat of whitefish as di- rected elsewhere in this book; cut a pound of salmon in thin slices, flatten them a little with the broad side of the cleaver; sea.son with salt and pepper and fry them in butter. Roll out a thin sheet of short paste, cover the bottom of a baking dish, then put in a layer of the whitefish force- meat and arrange the fried slices of sal- mon on top; put mussels, oysters, or shrimps between the slices or fillets of sal- mon; spread over this a layer of the white- fish forcemeat; cover with a sheet of short paste, crimp the edges, cut a small hole in the center, brush over with milk and bake three hours with a greased paper over the top; when done let it partly cool then take it out from the baking dish, place on a platter, surround it with water- cress, and pour a cup of cream sauce in the hole in the center. 8I0-SAUCISSES DE BARCELONA. (Spanish). Mince very fine two pounds of fresh lean pork, two-thirds as much of salt pork, season with three cloves of garlic and aromatic salt No. 2 and a minced red pepper, moisten the mixture with wine 128 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. and water. Clean thoroughly intestines of pig and fill them plump, give a twist at every four inches, so as to make the sausage of even length, dry them in the open air twenty-four hours, then hang three days in corn col> smoke. 8JI-PUCHERO. (Spanish). Put in a saucepan: 2% lbs. of brisket of beef. 2 ears of pig carefully cleaned. A slice of raw ham. A cu])ful of lentils previou.sly steeped twelve hours in Cf)ld water. 5 quarts of cold water. A teaspoonful of salt. Put on to boil over a moderate fire and skim off all that rises, then boil on the side of the range very slowly, with the steam shut in, two hours, then add a sprig of fennel, a sprig of mint, one leek, a large slice of summer squash, a small head of cabbage; boil an hour longer, then add a summer sausage, called "Cer- velat," directions for its making given elsewhere in this book; a sausage strongly flavored with red pepper and called "Choreso" is generally used instead; let boil slowly until all the contents are ten- der, then drain out the liquor carefully, strain and skim; put this in a soup kettle, add to it a cut up leek and lettuce and enough stock to make 5 pints, and addi- tional seasoning if necessary; serve in shallow bowls with slices of toast; serve the meats on a platter with the vegetables neatly arranged all around. 8J2— MILK AND ALMOND SOUP. (Spanish). Crush one pound of blanched almonds, mix these with two quarts of milk and rub tlirough a fine sieve, put this in a stone jar and add a teaspoonful of sugar and a stick of cinnamon, let it boil five minutes then add slices of toast, put the cover on and let simmer ten minutes longer, take out the stick of cinnamon and serve a slice of the toast with some of the soup. 813— GASPASCHIO. (vSpani.sh). Mince very fine a large onion, half of a red pepper, two cloves of garlic, add to this a basting spoonful each of oil and vinegar and a cupful of cold water, put into a granite pan, season with salt, and add two large cucumbers cut in dice, cook a few minutes then put in enough white bread crumbs to make a thick paste; pour this on a platter and let it get cold; cut in finger lengths and .serve on a bed of lettuce. 8J4— ALMONDIGILLAS. (Spanish.) Take 3| ft), of lean beef, cut out the gristle, mince it very fine, mince half as much of fresh fat pork, mix both together and chop it in a bowl, season with salt, pepper and minced parsley, and a clove of garlic, moisten with three whole eggs, divide tlie mixture in portions the size of an egg, roll them compactly with floured hands, dip them in beaten eggs, then in cracker dust, fry in hot lard, drain and put them in a baking pan, with enough tomato sauce to come up level, let them bake slowly in the bottom of the open oven a half hour; serve two of them to an order with a spoonful of tomato sauce. 8 J5— GREEN SAUCE. (Spanish.) Soak 2 oz. of bread in water, squeeze dry; pound a sprig of parsley with six anchovies, a tablespoonful of minced on- ions, and three small green gherkins; when this is all pounded smooth, mix it with the bread panada and stir smooth; add equal quantities of olive oil and vine- gar to make a thick sauce, rub it through a sieve, and serve with salted or plain boiled beef, fish, etc. 8J6-ESCABESC1A OF PARTRIDGE. (Spanish.) Take three young partridges, draw and clean them carefully; warm in a frying pan a cupful of olive oil and two cloves of crushed garlic, then put in the partridges PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 139 and fry them lightly; when they are bare- ly colored put them in a saucepan and add the oil from the frying pan, one minced canot, as much of onion, a bunch of thyme, two leaves of laurel, salt and pepper; cook them ten minutes then moisten with vinej^ar and light stock mixed in equal quantities, cook two or three minutes longer then put in enough vinegar and stock to just cover the par- tridges, boil them in this liquor about fifteen minutes, then take off and cool. Serve with green sauce made as directed in the preceding recipe. 8J7— MANTECADOS. (Spanish. ) Put in a mixing bowl ^ lb. of good, home rendered lard, and as much of pow- dered sugar; cream this and add X teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon. 6 yolks of eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of pulverized sesame. Mix in 12 ozs. of flour. Divide this in portions the size of a wal- nut, roll in balls with floured hands and put them on buttered paper as you would macaroons, bake these in a slack oven about half an hour — should simply bake dry, hardly changing color. 818— SCOTCH HAGGIS. The stomach, heart, liver and lungs of a sheep; wash the stomach carefully and let it soak several hours in salted ice-wa- ter, turn it inside out, scald it in boiling water and scrape it; this must be done quickly; when scraped clean let it remain in water until wanted; pierce the heart and liver in several places so the blood will run out; wash the pluck and put it on to boil, the windpipe hanging out of the kettle so that any impurities may come out, after this has boiled an hour put in fresh water with the liver and heart and boil an hour and a half more. Mince the best part of the heart and lungs, leaving out the gristly parts; grate the liver, add one half-pound of beef suet finely minced, one onion also finely minced and one- half pound of oat meal toasted in the oven ; season with salt and pepper, moisten with a cup of brown gravy. Mix thorough- ly and fill the clean stomach bag; it must not be quite full to allow for the swelling of the ingredients, also the contraction of the bag; sew it up and drop in a kettle of boiling water, boil it slowly for three hours, pricking it several times with a needle. 8J9— TURKISH SHERBET. I pmt of angelica wine. 1 pint of water. I lb. of sugar. The juice of one lemon. The juice of three oranges. X lb. of blanched almonds. % lb. of Muscatel grapes. % lb of figs cut very small. % lb. of seedless raisins. 4 whites of eggs. Make a hot syrup of the sugar and wa- ter and pour it over the figs and raisins, add three cloves and a small cinnamon stick; when cold color a light pink, add the juice of the lemon and oranges and the wine, strain and freeze in the usual way; add the raisins, grapes, figs and blanched almonds when the sherbet is frozen. 820— PILAFF. (Turkish.) Take a pint of rice, wash it in three waters, then spread it in a large flour sieve and let it dry about an hour; put it in a saucepan with three cups of light stock or chicken broth, cook slightly un- til it has boiled thick enough so that the bubbles will leave a cavity in the rice, then put in % lb. of butter browned light in a frying pan, put the lid on and keep it in the open oven a quarter of an hour; turn it over on the dish in which it will be served, trim it with parsley and serve hot. 821— STUFFED ASPARAGUS. (Turkish.) Take a dozen young asparagus, hollow out the stem with a Parisian potato spoon , and stuff these with finely minced onion and garlic in equal proportions, cook these in two minutes in hot olive oil, then drain '30 pRAcrrcAL AND ARTISTIC cook:b:rv. them carefully. Mince together equal quantities of raw lean mutton, beef suet and asparagus tips; season with salt, pep- per and minced parsley, add two basting spoonfuls of cooked rice; put this force- meat in the bottom of a paking dish and lay the asparagus in regular form on top, moisten with tomato sauce and bake in a slow oven; this must be >^eivt>d in tlic dish in which it has baked 822— D0LMA3, (Turkish). Parboil three heads of young, green cabbage, drain them; have ready a force- meat made of equal parts of raw mutton and beef suet, one-fourth as much of cooked rice, season with salt, pepper, onion and minced parsley. Trim the parboiled cabbage leaves of even size, put in the middle of each a little roll of the forcemeat; roll these up, put them in a saucepan with enough broth to come up level with the dolmas, put a plate di- rectly on top to keep in place and cook very slowly half an hour, drain the liquor carefully, put the dolmas on a platter; thicken the liquor with sufficient yolks of eggs to give it the consistency of cream, to this add lemon juice to taste and pour it over the dolmas in the dish; serve hot. ^*J» HOW TO MAKE YEAST, BREADS, MUFFINS, ROLLS, WAFFLES, RUSKS AND OTHER YEAST RAISED ARTICLES, BAKING POWDER BISCUITS, PUFF PASTES, PATTIE SHELLS, PIES, TARTS. ^ PART III. .^ BREAD AND,^ CAKES ^ CREAM PUFFS. ECLAIRS, CAKES, MACAROONS, KISSES, SMALL PASTRIES, MERINGUES, FILLINGS CONSERVES, PUDDINGS, SAUCES, SOUFFLEES, CHARLOTTES, JELLIES, BAVARIAN CREAMS. Breads^ RoDs^ and Yeast Raised Cakes. 823-YEAST. For those making large quantities of bread it may be that the time and labor necessitated for the making of yeast is figured at less than the expense occasioned by the purchase of compressed yeast, which is no better than good home-made yeast, but almost as good. Care in get- ting fresh compressed yeast will provide you with a good strong reliable yeast at your command for a penny. No potatoes to pare and mash, no stock to bottle and strain, and still get satisfactory results does seem a good plea in favor of the compressed yeast; but for those wishing to attain perfection, or if the compressed yeast cannot be had conveniently, we will give directions for the making of home-made yeast — not that kind where you have to borrow ferment from the baker or neighbor — but a recipe to make your own ferment or stock, so you can rely on sweet, tasteless, strong and quick yeast that can be used without fear. 824— THE BEGINNING OF YEAST. Make strong hop tea by boiling a half cupful of hops in a quart of water, cool and strain it, squeeze the hops to get the entire strength. Get a strong quart bot- tle, one which has contained champagne or ale, fill it two-thirds full, then put in the bottle a half cupful of ground malt and half as much of sugar; cork securely, tying the cork down like you would for root beer; shake the bottle thoroughly and set it in a warm corner of the kitchen where there will be no occasion to disturb it and where the temperature is about even all the time — it must not set exposed to the sun — let it stay there forty-eight hours and it will then be ready to use to start the stock yeast. 825— STOCK YEAST. Make four quarts of hop tea, using yi pound of hops; boil about an hour with the steam shut in; after the hops are boiled there must be eight quarts in the kettle. Put one pound of flour into a stone jar or clean tight wooden keg; strain half of the boiling hops into it and stir thoroughly with a wooden spoon; when the flour is stirred smooth add all the rest of the hop tea and cool with a piece of ice weighing about three pounds; when this is done add a pint of ground malt and six ounces of sugar; when the mixture is luke-warm add the bottle of yeast, taking care not to spill any as the cork will come out with considerable force, mix altogether thoroughly and let the jar set in a warm place where it will not be disturbed for two days. 826— ORDINARY YEAST. 12 medium sized potatoes. 2 lb. of flour. A basting spoonful of sugar. A pint of stock yeast. Clean the potatoes thoroughly, they should be pared, although bakers are against peeling the potatoes — anyway the)' can be used either pared or not but, certainly must be scrupulously clean; boil them in enough water just to cover them ; when done pour off the water and fill up again with fresh water, when this comes to a boil again turn the contents of the kettle on the flour and mash all to a very thin paste, put in the sugar and thin down with ice-water to the consist- ency of cream, strain all in a stone jar and when it is still lukewarm add a pint of stock yeast; let it stand in a place where the temperature is moderate. Do not disturb for fifteen to twenty-eight hours, according to the weather and the activity of the stock yeast; it is then ready to use and should be kept in a cool place. The flour should be well scalded, 134 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKKkV. otherwise it may soijr. Care must be taken that the water is boiling vigorously when it is poured on the flour. Salt has no chemical effect on yeast and it is not necessary to use it, but it is altogether different with sugar, which has a marked chemical effect upon fermentation. Yeast may be started by buying stock yeast or ferment from the baker, but if you wish to have sweet, strong yeast better make it yourself or use compressed yeast. Per- fection in bread making will be attained only when quick, .strong and tasteless yeast can be obtained. 827— ORDINARY BFIEAD DOUGH. The standard quantity of yeast to be used in making ■ various raised articles is one part of yeast to three of water. If compressed yeast is used, a j/2 oz. cake of Fleishman's is equal to yi pint of home- made yeast. I pint of yeast. 3 pints of warm water. ) rounded tablespoonful of salt. ^Yz lbs. of flour. Strain the yeast and water into a pan and mix in half of the flour, beat the batter thoroughly with a wooden paddle, scrape down the sides of the pan, pour a little melted lard on top, put a cover on the pan and let the sponge rise four hours, then add the salt and make up dough with the rest of the flour, knead on the table, draw it to a round shape occasionaly, then press it out to a flat sheet, fold over and press out again, knead a few minutes longer and repeat the operation several times; clean the pan and brush over with a little melted lard, put in the dough and brush it over; this will prevent the forming of a crust over the top or around the edges; let it rise two and a half hours, then put it back on the table and press it out to a sheet, dou- ble it over and press the edges together all around so as to inclose the air, repeat the operation several times during ten minutes, then press the dough to a thin sheet, fold it over, press the edges so as to form an air cushion, let it stand a few minutes and cut it into loaves, or rolls, let rise and bake at a temperature of 500 deg. Farenheit. The flour, water and otlier ingredients should be at a tempera- ture of 85 degrees Farenheit. The room where the sponge and dough is set should also be kept at 85 degrees Farenheit. Bread can also be made without setting the sponge as given in the above direc- tions making at night stiff dough letting it rise until morning, then giving it a kneading as described above. It may be set in cold water if the weather is warm, so as to check the fermentEtion and thus preventing the dough from be- coming sour. Too much kneading may injure small quantities of dough , but this happens very seldom; it is generally otherwise and the bread is not kneaded enough ; a good plan to follow is to knead the bread until it begins to break instead of spreading out, then stop a few minutes until it has re- gained its elasticitj' before kneading again . 828— CLEFT ROLLS. Roll out a portion of the bread dough to a sheet about three-fourths of an inch thick, cut this 'n pieces about three inches square; take the two opposite cor- ners and press them in the center, place them smooth side up in the baking pan leaving one and a half inches space all around the roll; brush over with luke- warm water, let them rise an hour before putting them into the oven; cut them lengthwise so as to nearly divide them in- to halves; this must be done with a sharp knife and a down stroke; will bake in a good brisk oven in ten minutes. 829-PLAIN ROLLS. Make little round balls about the size of a small egj,, put them in a pan just touching each other, brush with a little butter between them and let rise an hour and a quarter; will bake in fifteen to twenty minutes; when done brush over with butter or milk. 830— ORDINARY LOAVES. Cut the dough in eight pieces and mold them round as quickly as possible, that is, without working them too much; let PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKER-Y. J 35 ihem stand on the table a few minutes and press a little to give them an oblong shape to fit the tins, bring over the ends into the middle and put them in the bak- ing tins, brush slightly with a little but- ter and let rise; bake at a temperature of 500 degrees Farenheit. 831— GRAHAM BREAD. lyi lbs. of graham flour. 1% lbs. of wheat flour. 1 cup of yeast or ^ oz. of compressed A teaspoonful of salt. Mix the yeast and water together, stir in the graham, let it stand four hours, then mix in the white flour, knead vigor- ously. Grease the pan and brush the dough over with melted lard; let it rise two and a half hou.-s, then make into loaves, let rise and bake in the usual way. Graham bread will rise much faster than white bread and should be watched very carefully. 832— GRAHAM ROLLS. Thirty good sized rolls: lyi lbs graham flour. x% lbs of white flour. lyi pints of warm water. I coffee cupful of yeast or Yz oz. cake compressed yeast. 3 basting spoonfuls of molasses. 3 whites of eggs. A small teaspoonful of salt. Set the sponge at half past nine in the morning, at one add the other ingre- dients, knead vigorously, and let rise until half past four, then work in the dough by spreading it out on the table and folding over repeatedly as directed for white bread. Make the rolls in any shape described for white rolls; brush them over with butter and set to rise three-fourths of an hour; bake fifteen minutes in a brisk oven, when done brush over with milk. 833— FRENCH LOAVES. Cut the dough made as directed in No. 827 in eight pieces and proceed exactly as dilected for Cleft Rolls, when they are done brush over with milk. 834— PARKERHOUSE, FRENCH OR SPLIT ROLLS. . For two dozen rolls take: I yi cup of milk. A teacupful of yeast, or yi oz. cake of compressed, dissolved in a teacup of water. I teaspoonful of salt. 1 tablespoonful of sugar. A basting spoonful of lard or butter. 2 lbs of flour. If the rolls are to be made for supper, set the sponge about half past seven in the morning, using two pounds of flour, (otherwise if for breakfast, proceed as directed in No. 827 for setting sponge over night). At half past twelve add the sugar and butter and salt, knead the dough as directed elsewhere and let it rise until half past four, then make the rolls as follows: Press the dough on the table and roll it down to a thin sheet and cut this in round shapes with a biscuit cutter, take a little rolling pin, made out of the end of a broomstick, and roll a depression across the middle of each; brush over very lightly with a little butter or lard; double the rolls in two with the buttered side in, and put them on a baking pan with plenty of room, so they will not touch when they rise, brush over the tops with a little melted butter or lard and let rise an hour if the temperature of the room if 85 degrees Fahrenheit; they will bake in a hot oven, 500 degrees Fahrenheit, in ten minutes; when done brush over with milk or water. They can also be made in a quicker way if the dough is kneaded or rolled in lengths and then cut in roll size; again a piece of dough of the right size may be pulled off and molded into shape. Whichever way you shape the rolls it must be done quickly. Jt 835— FINEST BREAD. Make a" dough according to the direc- tions given in No. 834 for Parkerhouse Rolls; knead it vigorously as directed elsewhere; this will make an extra fine white bread; may be made in long fluted oblong shapes; fancy tins can be bought that are made expressly for the purpose. 136 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. &36— RYE BREAD. Rye bread is made in the same manner as ordinary' bread, nothing is to be added to the dough but the yeast and salt, and it must be worked stiffer than wheat bread to keep a good shape. .^ 837— VIENNA ROLLS. I pint of milk. 1 cake of Fleishman's compressed yeast. A teaspoonful of salt. A tablespoonful of sugar. 2 fts. of flour. Have the milk slightly warmed, dissolve the jeast in it; set the sponge at eight in the morning and at one o'clock add the sugar and salt and work in the rest of the flour to a stiff dough and let rise until half past three, then knead it vigorously on the table by pressing out and folding over; then roll out the dough in one large sheet as thin as possible and even — it must not be an}' thicker than the edge of an ordinary plate — then cut the dough in strips about six inches wide, cut these again in triangular pieces ( these triangles must not be equal sided, but long tri- angles); roll these pieces up beginning at the broad side, so that the point outside will come in the middle, thus making spiral marks from end to end; give a few light turns to the roll with the open hand and place them in the baking pan in the form of a crescent; brush over slightly with milk and let them rise about forty minutes; they will bake in ten minutes. This is the genuine Vienna roll as made in the up-to-date Vienna bakeries. The Vienna shaped rolls can also be made out of the French Roll dough; in this case it will be preferable to brush over with melted butter instead of milk. slanting cuts across the top and bake; place in the oven in a large pan contain- ing wet sawdust. 839— BUTTER ROLLS. 1% cup of milk. A cup of yeast, or Yz oz. compressed yeast. A basting spoonful of sugar. 2 yolks of eggs. 2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. A teaspoonful of salt. About 2',^ lbs. of flour. Make either by the sponge or stiff dough method (sponge method prefera- ble); all the ingredients may be put in at once; make in ordinary or Parkerhouse shapes. 840— DELAVAN ROLLS. Made out of the Parkerhouse roll dough, mold out small balls the size of an egg, then roll them out the size of a saucer, fold these by bringing over the two opposite edges making them meet in the middle, and then bringing over the other two corners, making a square piece of folded dough, roll this out a little, brush over vinth melted butter and make a depression in the center with a small rolling pin, and fold even like Parker- house rolls. 841— ROLL FOR SANDWICHES. 1^ ft. of puff paste. I ft. of roll dough. Roll out in thick sheets separately and place one on top of the other, fold over in three and roll out again thin, repeat the operation, then cut out and proceed as for Parkerhouse rolls, let it rinse an hour then bake ten minutes. 838-VIENNA BREAD. Make twice the quantity directed for French roll dough, cut in pound pieces. Then mold pointed long loaves, let rise in covered boxes previously dusted with Indian meal, brush over with a thin egg wash made of a beaten egg in a teacup of water, give them three 842— SALLY LUNN. 1 ft. of bread dough. A tablespoonful of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 2 yolks of eggs. % teacup of sweet cream. About two cups of flour. Keep the dough sweet and light until PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 137 one o'clock, then mix in all the ingredi- ents and let it rise until three o'clock, then knead about ten minutes; make in little round balls and roll these out flat, brush them over with melted butter, let rise an hour and a quarter and bake; when done brush the top over with maple syrup mixed with water when they are still in the oven, take out and let this dry; they should be made very small as these will spread a great deal. 843— ORDINARY BUNS OR BUTTER RUSK. I lb. of light rolled dough. -%, lb. of butter. A basting spoonful of sugar. A teacup of sweet cream. 8 yolks of eggs. Yz teaspoonful of salt. I lb. of flour. Keep the dough sweet and light until one o'clock, warm the butter, sugar and cream and mix in with the dough, beat the yolks in, two at a time, then gradual- ly add the flour, making a smooth dough; knead it vigorously and set it away to rise; about four o'clock knead the dough a second time and let it stand an hour, knead once more then make as directed for Split Rolls, notching the edge five times, thus making a different shaped roll, then let rise, and bake the same as for ordinary rolls; when done brush over with butter. 844— HOT BUNS. I cup of yeast, or Yz oz. compressed yeast. I cup of milk. Yz teaspoonful of salt. X lb. of sugar. ^ lb. of butter. 3 eggs. Grating of nutmeg. Flour sufficient to make soft dough. Mix all together at once and proceed as directed in the preceding recipes for Rusk; instead of making into roll shapes, make it in small balls and flatten these, when done brush over with syrup mixed with an equal quantity of water. 845— CURRANT BUNS. 2 lbs. of light bread dough. Y Va. oi currants. ^ lb. of butter. X lb. of sugar. Begin at half past three, spread the bread out on the table, strew the currants over and knead them in, roll the dough out to about a quarter of an inch in thick- ness, spread the softened butter over it with the sugar on top; cut in bands three inches wide, roll them up, brush these rolls all over with a little melted butter, then cut off in slices, rise and bake. 846-OERMAN PUFFS. I lb. light bread dough. 6 ozs. butter. A basting spoonful of sugar. A half cupful of milk. 8 yolks of eggs. 20 ozs. of flour. A pinch of salt. Take the dough at twelve o'clock and mix in the butter, sugar and salt, set in a warm place half an hour, then beat thoroughly and add two yolks at a time and flour by the handful alternately un- til all the yolks are in, beating against the side of the pan all the time, then turn out on the table and knead vigorously, set away and let rise three hours, knead again as directed for Parkerhouse rolls, mold it in small balls, brush over and let rise an hour, then fry in hot lard; when done roll in sugar; after they are molded in shape they must not rise too much as they would soak the grease. 847— FINEST RUSKS. I lb. of light bread dough. The bread must be very light and the yeast which was used in its making of the best possi- ble quality. Y lb. of butter. Y lb. of sugar, powdered. 7 yolks of eggs. I whole egg. Yz cup of rich milk. Begin at twelve o'clock, mix the dough with the powdered sugar and milk; the butter and other ingredients should be slightly warm before mixing, when this 138 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. is thoroughly mixed add the eggs and flour a little at a time and alternately, beating the mixture vigorously all the ■while; put the remainder of the flour on the table, turn out the dough and knead as for rolls or bread; set it in a warm place for three hours, then knead it again by pressing to a thin sheet and folding over and pressing the edges together; ■when the kneading is done it should look smooth and elastic, with the air snapping from the edges when pressed. After the second kneading let it stand an hour and a quarter, then knead once more and make into shape as described in Parker- house Rolls, notch the edges, then brush over and let rise an hour and a half; bake at a temperature of about 450 degrees Fahrenheit fifteen minutes; when done brush over with a mixture of equal parts of egg, sugar and water, and a teaspoon- ful of extract of vanilla, then sprinkle sugar over the top. 848— SWEET RUSK. 1 lb. of light dough. A basting spoonful of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 2 yolks of eggs. 3 basting spoonfuls of milk. Sufiicient flour to make stiff dough. Proceed as directed for the preceding recipe. 849— MUFFINS. 1 lb. of light bread dough. A basting spoonful of melted butter. 2 yolks of eggs. 2 basting spoonfuls of milk. I teaspoonful of sugar. A handful of flour. A little salt. Mix the ingredients together three hours before the meal; beat the dough thoroughly against the side of the pan until it is very smooth, fill muffin tins half full, let rise an hour and bake in a hot oven. 850— GRAHAM MUFFINS. I lb. of graham roll dough. A tablespoonful of butter. A basting spoonful of syrup. j4 cup of milk. 3 eggs. Warm the butter and mix it with the dough, put in the other ingredients and beat all together a few minutes; grease muffin tins, fill them half full, let rise an hour and bake. 850A— MILK BREAD. Make the sponge dough as directed elsewhere for ordinary bread, but instead of using water use milk ; the sponge must be beaten vigorously and the flour added^ only a little at a time; the dough must be softer than for other kinds of bread and must be baked in a moderate oven, as it will brown easil}-; when done brush over with milk. 851— RAISED BROWN BREAD. 3 cups of corn meal. 2 cups boiling water. ^ teacupful of reboiled molasses. I compressed yeast cake or a cupful of yeast. I cupful of cold water. }4 lb. wheat flour. As much of graham flour. Salt. Scald the corn meal with the boiling water, put in the salt, molasses and cold water, then the yeast, the two kinds of flour. Line a small lard pail, or a brown bread pail if you have one for the pur- pose, -with a buttered paper, put in the dough and let it rise about an hour and a quarter, then steam for four hours, take out of the steamer and put it in the oven for a few minutes to form a thin crust; if allowed to rise too much it will be hollow in the middle; should rise an hour more if it is to be baked. 852— RAISED GINGER BREAD. 2 lbs. of bread dough. ^ lb. of reboiled molasses.. 6 ozs. of butter. I rounded teaspoonful of ground gin- ger. A teaspoonful of mixed spices (cinna- mon, allspice, nutmeg). Enough flour to work up to a soft dough. Make up as directed in No. 853, coffee cake. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 139 &53— COFFEE CAKE. 2 lbs. of bread dough. X lb. of sugar. X lb, of butter. I egg- Begin at noon ; mix the dough with all the ingredients slightly warm ; knead on the table with enough flour to make a stiff dough; let rise until four o'clock then knead it; roll it out to a sheet a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut this in pieces suitable to fit the baking pans, brush over lightly with melted butter and let rise an hour; when ready, put them in the oven, score them across and bake fif- teen minutes, scoring will prevent the crust from puffing up; when done brush over with syrup and water mixed in equal quantities, and sift over a little cinnamon mixed with powdered sugar. 854— TEA CAKES, I lb. of light bread dough. 6 ozs. each of sugar and butter. 3 eggs. 4 ozs. of flour. A tablespoonful of caraway seed. Mix the ingredients with the dough about noon, let it rise until four o'clock then beat it well; spread it on greased pie plates and let rise an hour, bake, split open and butter. 855— RAISED DOUGHNUTS, NO. U 2 lbs. bread dough. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. As much of butter. Take the dough from the bread, or rolls, at twelve o'clock, mix in the other ingredients, let it stand three-quarters of an hour then work it up with sufficient flour to make a stiff dough and let rise until half past four, then knead and roll out to a thin sheet, brush the whole sur- face with a little melted butter and cut with a large doughnut cutter made for the purpose; they should be just a trifle smaller than a tomato can with the cen- ter cutter about one and a half inches in diameter; let them rise half an hour, then drop in hot lard; they will cook in five minutes. Care must be taken not to let them rise too much as they will soak the gfrease. When they are almost cool, roll them in granulated sugar, or sift powder- ed sugar over. 856— RAISED DOUGHNUTS, NO. 2. 2 lbs light bread dough. X lb. light syrup. 3 eggs. A basting spoonful of melted butter. Made as the preceding recipe. 857— RAISED DOUGHNUTS, NO. 3. (The cheapest doughnut made). Roll out a sheet of the Parkerhouse dough, cut in little squares and let rise, then fry in hot lard as you would dough- nuts, and sift powdered sugar over. They make an article a good deal better than the appearance of the recipe would war- rant. .^ 858— RAISED ALMOND CAKE. }4 lb. of light roll dough. ^ lb. butter. X lb. sugar. 7 eggs. 10 ozs. of flour. }4. cup each of cream and brandy. }4 lb. of blanched almonds. Mix and rise according to directions given for Kaujlauff. Blanch and split the almonds in halves and mix half of them in the cake just before the dough is ready to go into the molds; put the rest of the almonds in softened butter and stick them all over the cake; bake as directed for Kaujlauff. 859-OARAWAY CAKE, 1 lb of light bread dough. }4 lb. of sugar. As much of butter. 2 eggs. A teaspoonful of caraway seeds. 6 ozs. of flour. Mix the dough with the butter and sugar and set it in a warm place half an hour, then add the eggs one at a time, and the caraway, let it stand another half hour, add the flour and give it ten min- utes of vigorous beating; put it in a but- tered cake mold, let it rise an hour and bake about three-fourths of an hour. I40 PRA.CTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 860— SAFFRON CAKE. I lb. of bread dough. A basting spoonful of sugar. % lb of butter. % lb. of raisins. Yi a small teacupful of strong saffron tea. 8 ozs. flour. Mix it up like caraway cake and bake like bread. See recipe for caraway cake, No. 859. 861— PLAIN RAISED CAKE. I ft. light biead dough. ^ ft. of sugar. X ft. of butter. }4. teaspoon ful of caraway seed. I ft. of flour. Proceed as for the preceding recipe, the only difference being the handling of the dough, which is kneaded like bread instead of beaten, rise and bake in the same manner. 862— RAISED FRUIT CAKE. % ft. of roll dough. % ft. of butter. A basting spoonful of sugar. 7 eggs. ^ pint of flour. ^ ft. of currants. % ft. of candied citron. 3 basting spoonfuls of brandy. A teaspoonful of nutmeg extract. Warm the dough, butter and sugar to- gether, mix thoroughly and let it stand a half hour then mix vigorously and beat in the eggs two at a time alternating with a handful of flour, let rise two hours, beat again, add the flavoring, brandy and fruit; line the cake molds with buttered paper, put in the batter, let it stand two hours, then bake about two hours. 863— RAISED PLUM CAKE. I ft. of bread dough. yi, ft. of reboiled molasses and sugar mixed. 8 ozs. butter. 6 ozs. flour. 3 eggs. A tablespoonful of mixed spices. ^ ft. of seedless Sultana raisins. % lb. of currants. % lb of citron. A basting spoonful of brandy. Flavoring of lemon. Warm the dough, sugar and butter to- gether, beat slightly, let it stand a half hour, beat in the eggs one at a time alter- nating with a handful of flour and let stand three hours, beat again, add the floured fruit and flavoring; line molds with buttered paper, fill them half full and let rise two and a half hours; bake in a moderate oven. 864-KAUJLAUFF. % lb. of roll dough. As much of flour and butter. A basting spoonful of sugar. yi ft. of currants. 4 whole eggs and as many yolks. A teacup % full of cream. A teaspoonful of extract of lemon. A little ground cinnamon. Warm the dough slightly with the but- ter and sugar together, mix thorougly and let it rise half an hour, then beat in the eggs two at a time alternating with a lit- tle flour, beat vigorously for five minutes or more and let rise two hours, then beat again and add the flavoring, currants and cinnamon. L/ine a cake mold with a greased paper, put in the batter and let rise two hours more, then bake. It will be done in about an hour. 865— RAISED SWEET DUMPLINGS. I ft. of roll dough. A basting spoonful of sugar. I egg. A basting spoonful of butter. yi ft. of flour. At seven in the morning mix the sugar, butter and eggs with the dough, let the pan stand in a warm place a little while then beat it smooth, mix in the flour to make a stiff dough and let it rise until eleven, then work the dough as you would for rolls, finally roll it out to a sheet, brush over with butter, cut like baking powder biscuits and let rise a half hour; then cook them in a steamer about fifteen minutes; serve with sauce, maple syrup, or stewed fruit. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 141 866— BERRY DUMPLINGS. Strawberries, blackberries and blueber- ries can be used to make dumplings in the following manner: Make the sweet dumpling dough, shape it out like bis- cuits, make a little depression in the mid- dle, put in a spoonful of berries, gather the edges and close the dough over and drop the dumpiings in a pan of boiling milk and cook in the oven fifteen to twenty minutes, they should be basted three times with the milk in the pan while they are baking; serve with any suitable pudding sauce. Jt 867— FRENCH WAFFLES. I Tb. of flour. I pint of milk. I cup of yeast, or i cake compressed yeast. ^2 pint of thick cream, )4 lb. butter. 12 eggs. }i teaspoonful of salt. I tablespoonful of sugar. Make a sponge of the fleur, milk and yeast, set this six hours before the meal; two hours before they are wanted separate the eggs, beat the yolks light and add them together with the butter, sugar and salt; let it set an hour, then whip the cream and stir it in just before baking; whip the whites to a stiff froth and stir them in; bake in the usual way prescribed for waffles. 868— ORDINARY WAFFLES. I ft. of flour. I pint of milk. A cupful of yeast , or a ^ 02. cake com- pressed yeast. A basting spoonful of syrup. X ft. of butter. I teaspoonful of salt. 4 eggs. Make up the sponge six hours before using, with the flour, water and yeast, four hours after add the other ingredients and beat thoroughly, and let it rise until ready to bake in waffle irons. Waffles are baked in irons, which can be bought of any dealer in kitchen utensils. Have the iron hot, pour in one side a spoonful of melted lard, shut the iron up and turn it over three or four times, then place a spoonful of the batter in each compart- ment; they are made" in two and three compartments; shut it up and turn over frequently until both sides are done. If the iron is kept bright and well greased the waffles will come out easily. 869— FLANNEL CAKES. I ft. of flour. I quart of lukewarm water. 1 teacupful of yeast, or ^ oz. cake com- pressed yeast. A basting spoonful of light syrup, X ft. of melted lard. 2 eggs. )4 teaspoonful of salt. Make a sponge with the yeast, water and flour six hours before they are want- ed; an hour before using add the remain- ing ingredients and beat thoroughly; bake on a griddle which must not be too hot, as they will scorch easily; these cook quicker than the ordinary baking powder griddle cakes. 870— GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES. yi ft. cf wheat flour. }4 ft. of graham flour. I pint of lukewarm water. A teacupful of yeast. 3 eggs. A basting spoonful of syrup. A basting spoonful of melted lard. }i teaspoonful of salt. Set the batter in the usual way as for yeast raised griddle cakes; add the salt, syrup and lard an hour before using. 87 J— BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. I ft. of buckwheat flour. I quart of lukewarm water. A teacupful of yeast, or a ^ oz. cake of compressed yeast. )4 teaspoonful of salt. I or 2 basting spoonfuls of syrup. Same of melted lard or butter. Make the sponge over night with the yeast, water and flour, an hour before us- ing in the morning add the other ingre- dients, beat well, and bake thin cakes in the usual way. 142 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 872— RAISEP EGG MUFFINS. 1 lb. of bread dough. A basting spoonful of melted butter. 2 basting spoonfuls of cream. 2 yolks and one whole egg. A teaspoonful of sugar. A little flour. A pinch of salt. If the bread is made at night, take the dough in the morning at half past five, work in the butter and cream, let stand a few minutes then beat in the eggs and a heaping basting spoonful of flour and let rise half an hour; fill buttered muffin tins half full ; the batter should be thin enough to settle smooth, let rise an hour, bake in a hot oven ten minutes. If the bread is made by the sponge method and set in the daj'-time instead of night and if j-ou are to have the muffins for supper, start them at half past four in the afternoon. '* I There's a good deal more in bread than ap- pears on the surface. There's a much larger percentage of nutriment in selected Spring wheat of highest grade than in Winter wheat. Gold Medal Flour is made from the best Spring wheat of Minnesota and Dakota. It is the strongest flour made. It makes more bread, better bread and more uniform bread than any other flour. The family that insists on having WASHBURN-CROSBY'S GOLD MEDAL FLOUR will be healthier and more vigorous than a family that is satisfied with any other kind. WASHBUBN-CROSBY CO., Minneapolis, Minu. Alao makers of YUCO the new wheat food. For Breakfast, Dinner and Supi)er. Baking Powder Biscuits^ Breads Muffins^ Griddle Cakes^ Etc* 873-BAKlNG POWDER. Baking powder was first put on the market in a noticeable way about forty years ago. It was then called German yeast, the manufacturers claiming that with baking powder flour would yield five per cent, more bread than if the ordi- nary yeast raising process was employed, giving for their reasons that the ordinary process of fermentation changed a portion of the flour into gas that would escape during the long hours of fermentation. Chemists employed by the manufacturers appended their certificate declaring that the powder when evaporating in the bread left only a small residue, and that was chloride of sodium or common salt. But it has since been proven by uninterested scientists that if cream of tartar and bi- carbonate of soda could be so evenly pro- portioned as to counteract each other its keeping would be impossible without the aid of a hygroscopic agent; that is why honest manufacturers use starch, etc., while dishonest ones use ingredients in- jurious to health, such as terre alba, alum, talc, carbonate of ammonia, slacked lime, whiting, gypsum, white chalk, Paris white, etc., and these deleterious sub- stances are used by the hundreds of tons annually and consumed in the United States. The honest manufacturers must use a hygroscopic agent, such as wheat or rice flour, potato starch, corn starch and many other similar food products, and this to the extent of about twenty- five per cent. Adulteration of baking powder has be- come such on important matter that the legislatures of several states have made it an obligation for the manufacturers to print the formula of their powder on the outside of each package. My friend, Mr. Thatcher, has long since done this of his own accord, and you will find the formula of his Sugar of Milk Baking Powder on every package. The discovery of Sugar of Milk as an improvement in the art of compounding baking powder was made by Dr. Thatch- er while employed as an expert in testing adulterated milk. He made a careful study of the nature, quality and utility of the Sugar of Milk, which bids fair to sup- plant all other substances as a keeper and further leavener for baking powder. Even if the superiority of the Sugar of Milk baking powder was left aside, the flavor alone imparted by the Sugar of Milk should make it a sufficient consid- eration for its exclusive use. Chemistry will teach you that Sugar of Milk is a wholesome food, and unlike starch used in all other so called pure baking powders has no equal as a com- minuter and subdivider. It exerts no influence whatever on either cream of tartar, bicarbonate of soda, or tartaric acid, its only use, as far as the agents are concerned, being its hygroscopic property (absorption of moisture). Four parts of Sugar of Milk will prevent the cream of tartar and bicarbonate of soda from chem- ically combining and thus giving off its gas as well as twenty parts of starch or flour. Cream of tartar and bicarbonate of soda would certainly make a pure bak- ing powder, but this becomes an impossi- bility without some hygroscopic agent; that is why starch and Sugar of Milk are used in its preparation. Starch, unless cooked several hours, is a detriment to good health, while Sugar of Milk ouside of its hygroscopic propertj- has ability to liberate leavening gas through the slight, vinous ferment. By this slight ferment Sugar ot Milk is changed into alcohol, thereby adding to the leavening power. 146 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. the liberated alcohol itnpro\ ing the flavor, making it quite like a Parkerhouse roll. It is possible to proportion bicarbonate of soda and cream of tartar so as to neu- tralize each other by testing each lot of soda; as each lot varies in strength, bi- carbonate of soda must be used to exactly neutralize the cream of tartar, or else you have an excess of acid or alkali. The residue left on combining cream of tartar and bicarbonate of soda is salt; when tar- taric acid is used it is tartrate of soda, which is not as mild a salt. This slight deviation I have made in the endeavor to prove that baking pow- der containing Sugar of Milk for its hy- groscopic agent is the only kind in which everv ingredient does leavening work. The World's Fair judges, who possessed so nmch judgment and science, pro- nounced the Sugar of Milk baking pow- der superior to any other. I would bow to their decision, even without further proof. .•* 874— BAKING POWDER BISCUITS. The most favorable condition for yeast tiiafle food connected with moisture is a proper degree of warmth. The carbonic dioxide, or leavening gas, is formed by the conversion of the flour starch into alcohol, tlius liberating tlie leavening gas. This change is most perfect at a moderate temperature and is entirely suspended at a low temperature. Attemptiui, to imitate the above in the mak'tig of baking powder biscuits has led many cooks astray. The leavening gas from the usual baking powder is liberated bv the chemical change in its own con- stituents. It does not attack and convert the flour like yeast, nor is it produced in greater abuiulance by heat as is the case when yeast is employed. It is true that moisture and heat do quickly liberate the given amount of leavening gas which the baking powder holds. This, however, is ■where the danger lies, for unlike tlie yeast, it does not multiply or increase the quantity. If the milk or water used in tlie making of the biscuits is warmed be- fore mixing much of tlie leavening gas is apt to be lost or wasted during the pro- -cess of making biscuits, even though the work is expeditiously performed. If ice- water or milk is used the leavening gas is liberated more slowly and is held by the cold liquid much longer and in more minute globules with limited expansion, thus the biscuits enter the oven contain- ing all the leavening gas which the heat at once begins to expand without the loss that would have been occasioned b}' the leavening powers with the warmed liquid. Thus science has determined that ice- water and ice-cold milk will produce bet- ter results. 1 quart of flour. A teaspoonful of salt. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. A piece of butter size of a lemon. First mix the powder with a basting spoonful of flour and keep adding flour until it is all in, sift three times; the flour and baking powder cannot be too thoroughly mixed. Rub the butter and flour together with your hands until the butter is completely incorporated into the flour (more or less butter can be used according to the desired richness), then add quickly sufficient sweet milk to make a soft dough ; it should be as soft as can be handled, roll it out about an inch thick, cut into biscuits. Either grease or flour a baking tin, put in the biscuits closely together so that they will rise rather than spread; they will bake in twentv to twentv-five minutes. 875— BAKING POWDER BREAD. Make the baking powder biscuit prepa- ration with or without the shortening and bake ic bread tins as you would ordinary bread. It is very fine to use when just cold for sweet sandwiches. 876-IMITATION VIENNA ROLLS. ( Baking Powder. ) 1 quart of flour. 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking pow- der. I tablespoonful of sugar. yi teaspoonful of salt. Butter the size of an egg. The yolks of two eggs. A cupful of milk. Mix the baking powder, flour and salt PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 147 together and rub in the shortening as di- rected for biscuits; beat the yolks of eggs with the milk and sugar, make the dough, roll it out about a quarter of an inch thick, let it stand two or three minutes to lose its elacticity, cut out and proceed as directed for Vienna or Parkerhouse rolls; bake as usual and when done brush over with melted butter. .^ 877-FLAKY ROLLS. The following will make beautiful, flaky biscuits extremely white and deli- cious for a lunch, and certaihly worth while practicing. 1 lb. of flour. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Yz teaspoonful of salt. A piece of butter the size of an ^^'g. A large cup of milk. Mix the dough as directed for baking powder biscuits, but only with a half tea- spoonful of baking powder, mix the rest of the powder with a basting spoonful of flour; roll out the dough and sprinkle with the powder every time it is rolled out; it must be rolled several times, the last time about an inch thick, cut with an oblong shaped cutter; brush over the top with melted butter and bake in the usual way. 878— GRAHAM BISCUITS. I quart of graham flour. I pint of white flour. A basting spoonful of lard. 1 egg. A little salt. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Sufficient milk to make a stiff dough. Roll out and proceed as directed for baking powder biscuits. 879— WHEAT MUFFINS. 2 cups flour. 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 1 teaspoonful of salt. 2 eggs. I cup of sweet cream. Mix the flour, salt and powder together thoroughly, beat the eggs light, add the cream, beat all together and bake in muf- fin tins filled half full. 880— GRAHAM MUFFINS. I pint of sour cream. 1 teaspoonful of soda. Yi teaspoonful of salt. Yz cup of sugar. 2 eggs. Sufficient graham flour to make a stiff batter. Beat the eggs with the sugar until they are well incorporated, put the soda in the cream with the salt, mix with the eggs and sugar, then make a stiff batter with the flour and bake in muffin tins. 881— CORN MUFFINS. 2 cups flour. 1 cup corn meal. Y, pint of milk. 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Yz teaspoonful of salt. 2 eggs. Mix the flour, baking powder, com meal sugar and salt; beat the eggs sepa- rately, the yolks with the milk, mix this with the corn meal and flour; then the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and finally the melted butter; fill the muffin tins two-thirds full and bake in a moderate oven. S 882-CORN MUFFINS. 8 ozs. of fine, white corn meal. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. A cupful of boiling water. lYz cups of cold milk. X lb. of flour. Yz teaspoooful of salt. Yolks of two eggs. A heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- der. Put the shortening and water in a sauce- pan, let come to a boil, and scald the meal with this, add the salt and cold milk, put in the yolks, flour and baking powder, then beat the batter with a wire egg beater, bake in muffin tins; ser\'e very hot. 148 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 883— SCOTCH GEMS. I pint of cooked oatmeal. 1 pint of sweet milk. Yz cup of sugar. 2 eggs well beaten. A teaspoon ful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Sufficient flour to make a soft batter. Cream the sugar and butter, then add the salt, milk and beaten eggs, mix the flour and baking powder thoroughly, add this in with the oatmeal and beat a few minutes; bake in well greased gem pans in a quick oven. 884— GINGER BREAD WITHOUT EGGS. I cup of butter. ^ It), of brown sugar. Yz pint of milk. Yz teaspoonful of baking powder. 1 lb. of flour. I teaspoonful of ground ginger. Cream the sugar and butter, add the milk, ginger and flour, spread the mix- ture on a baking pan as thin as possible — barely enough to hide the bottom from sight — bake in a slack oven and when done cut into squares the size of half a postal card. 885— HOT CORN CAKE. Mix thoroughly i^ cups of corn meal. Yx cup of flour. 1 teaspoonful of salt. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat two eggs with half a cup of sugar, add a cup of sweet cream and two table- spoonfuls of melted butter, beat thorough- ly; make the baking pan hot in the oven, butter it, pour in the corn cake batter and bake in a moderate oven. 886-STEAMED BROWN BREAD. 1 lb. of corn meal. I pint of boiling water. Yz cupful of reboiled molasses. I cup of cold milk. A teaspoonful of salt. 3 tablespoonfuls of baking powder. Yt. lb. of graham flour. >^ lb. of white flour. Scald the meal vi^th the boiling water, add the rest of the ingredients, the bak- ing powder being thoroughly mixed and sifted with the white flour, beat it up vigorously and put in small pails having a tight lid, steam four hours, then bake from fifteen to twenty minutes. If the brown bread sticks to the knife when it is being cut, too much milk or water has been used in mixing it vip. 887-BAKING POWDER WAFFLES. I lb. of flour. I quart of milk. 6 eggs. X lb. melted butter. A basting spoonful of light syrup. Yi teaspoonful of salt. I heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- der. Mix the milk, syrup and melted butter together, beat the eggs and add them to the mixture; sift the baking powder and flour several times then mix gradually until all is smooth; bake as directed in No. 867. 888— SWEET WAFFLES. A basting spoonful of sugar. 7 eggs. I cup of milk. A cup of cream. A tablespoonful of melted butter. Yz teaspoonful of salt. A basting spoonful of brandy. Mix the flour, sugar and salt together, separate the whites, beat the yolks with the milk, pour that in the middle of the flour and stir to a smooth batter, then add the brandy and melted butter, and when ready to bake whip the cream and stir it in, then beat the eggs firm enough to hold an egg and stir these in lightly. If the batter has to stand any length of time the lightness of the eggs will fall, baking powder should then be added. 889— RICE WAFFLES. I pint of cooked rice. \Yi cups of milk. 8 ozs. flour. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 149 4 eggs. A basting spoonful of butter. As much of syrup. I teaspoonful of baking powder. A little salt. Mash the rice thoroughly, add the milk gradually, then the rest of the ingredi- ents, and bake in the irons as directed elsewhere. 890-BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES. I lb. white bread crumbs. }i lb. flour. 6 cups of milk. 3 eggs. Yz teaspoonful of salt. A tablespoonful of baking powder. Use only wheat bread crumbs, soak these in two parts of the milk for several hours and mash smooth; add the flour and remainder of the milk, the beaten eggs, salt and baking powder, and they are ready to bake. 891 -GRAHAM BREAD CAKES. Made as directed in the preceding rec- ipe, using graham bread instead. 892 -RICE GRIDDLE C.\KES. A pint of cooked rice. 3 cups of milk. A pint of flour. A basting spoonful of syrup. 3 eggs. Yz teaspoonful of salt. A heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- der. Mash the rice with part of the milk, which should be lukewarm, when per- fectly smooth add the flour and remain- ing milk alternately, then add the other ingredients and beat thoroughly; bake and serve in the usual way prescribed for griddle cakes. 893-CORN GRIDDLE CAKES. 8 ozs. white corn meal. Y, Oj. of flour. 2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. I egg. A pinch of salt. A pint of water. A teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix the corn meal and water gradually to avoid any lumps, add the rest of the ingredients, the powder last; bake thin cakes. 894— SOUR CREAM CRULLERS. (Doughnuts.) 4 cups of flour. I teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix these well together then add 3 eggs beaten light. 3^ cup of sugar. Yz cup of milk. 1 cup of sour cream made sweet with a little soda. Make a hollow in the flour, pour the liquids in the middle and stir without lumps; roll out, cut and fry in the usual manner. 895— CRULLERS. (Doughnuts.) 2 lbs. of flour. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Yz pint of milk. X lb. of butter. Yz lb. of sugar. 4 eggs. Grated nutmeg. Dissolve the sugar in the milk, beat the eggs, melt the butter and add these to the sugar and milk with the grated nutmeg; mix the powder thoroughly with the flour, put it in the bowl, make a hol- low in the middle and pour in the fluid mixture, stir without lumps; roll out im- mediately, cut in shapes and fry; they will take twice as long to fry as raised doughnuts. 896-BEATEN BISCUIT. 3 lbs. of flour. 6 ozs. of butter. 3 cupfuls of milk. A teaspoonful of salt. Have the milk lukewarm; melt the butter and mix it in the milk with the salt, making a dough of nearly all the flour, turn this on the table and knead it 150 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. smooth with the rest of the flour; when this is done beat it out to a sheet with a long, stout maul, fold it over an52 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY, the sheets will be as sharp as razor blades, for the butter would then run out into the bakiiij^ pan; two more rollings and foldings make the layers thin enough to blow away with the l)reaih; this is perfec- tion in ])nlT paste making. The old say- ing tliat piilT ])aste is a matter of j)eculiar temperament, something that everybody cannot make, is all humbug. It is a mat- ter of carefulness and study. If the puff paste is made in a short time, say fifteen to twenty minutes, and the butter has been worked smooth beforehand, the flonr and water made cold, the dough mixed uj) to aI)out the firmness of butter, and the paste is baked in a good hot oven immediately after it is made, success is assured. There are several ways of making puff paste which I will give further on in this book. Try them all and keep the one with which you have the best success. Kvery one of the recipes is good, but the formula to wliicli 1 adlu-re is the one giv- en al)ove. I^ard may be used in making puff paste if it is of good quality; it will make good puff paste; of course butter makes a rich- er crust, but for pie we .should recommend the use of lard, or lard and butter used in ecpial (piantities; at any rate good lard is far better than poor butter, and makes good white, light pastry. If lard is used, sprinkle salt over the lumps as they are spread on tlie dough. 909— SUET PUFF PASTE. The English bakers use large quantities of beef suet in the' making of their pufT pastry. It should be cut very small, all discolored portions trimmed off and set on the range in a kettle with plenty of hot water; this must not boil, but steep in the hot water for a few hours, and must be kept almost to the boiling point; then pour the contents of the kettle in a colan- der, place in a large dish pan and rub the fat through it with an ordinary potato masher. Have ready a pan of broken ice, water and sjilt, pour the fat into the ice-water by huUe fulls; it will settle im- mediately ami .should then be gathered with a skimmer, pressed together and pounded with a wooden masher, salting it for use. 9I0-FRENCH PUFF PASTE. ILse equal quantities of flour and butter, cut the butler in very thin .slices, take a little Hour and roll all the slices of butter into flakes and proceed in this way until all the butter and flour is rolled together; gather all of the flakes into a heap and sjninkle with water, about a small tea- cupful is rccjuired for a pound and a half of paste, make into a smooth paste with the hands; roll it out half an inch thick, divide it into six parts; flour the board and roll each part as thin as a wafer; fold over four times and it is ready to use. The best results are obtained if it is baked immediately. J* 9JJ-PLAIN PIE PASTE. 1 lb. of flour. >2 lb. lard. 1 level teaspoon of salt. SutTicient water to make soft dough. Rub the lard in the flour until it is in- corporated with the flour, add the salt, make a hollow in the middle of the flour, pour the water in and stir around, grad- ually mixing, turn the paste on the table with plenty of flour under, roll and fold twice. 9 J2— SWEET TART PASTE. 1 lb. of flour. 6 o/.s. of butter. A basting spoonful of powdered sugar. 2 eggs. A pinch of salt. ■> cup of water. Rub the butter into the flour, add the eggs, sugar and salt with the water, mix and knead it smooth without too much working. 9I3-APPLE PIE, BEST WAY. Pare and core the apples; only the best ripe cooking apples can be used to ad- vantage in making this pie; slice them verv thin across the core and flU the pie PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 153 tins lined with puff paste rolled out thin cover the apples with sugar and grated nutmeg and put in each pie a basting spoonful of water and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. May be baked with- out the top crust for a change, but they are better if covered with a thin sheet of puff paste brushed over with egg yolk beaten with its equal volume of water. Jft 914— APPLE PIE. Pare and core the apples and slice them in a bright pan. For one pound of the sliced apples add about a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a small teacupful of water — the fjuantity of sugar varies ac- cording to the aciditv of the fruit; throw in three or four cloves or flavor with lemon peelings; stew very slowly with the lid on, mash through a colander and bake in open pies. This recipe is very good for apples of poor quality. 9 15 -APPLE CREAM PIE. I pint of cooked apples. ^ lb. of sugar. I cupful of milk. X lb. of butter. 4 eggs. A basting spoonful of sherry. Grating of nutmeg. Mix all together and bake in pie tins lined with a thin .sheet of puff paste. The apples should be stewed as dry as possi- ble and mashed through a colander. 916— ORANGE PIE. Peel half the number of oranges that will be used in making the pie, slice them across the core, using a very sharp knife, remove the seeds, and place a layer on the bottom of the pie pan lined with puff paste, alternating with slices of unpeeled oranges, strew sugar over plentifully and sprinkle over tliis a spoonful of ordinary red wine; bake slowly until the juice is as thick as syrup. 9t7-LEMON PIE NO. U Yi lb. of sugar. 3 lemons. r pint of water. I oz of com starch. 4 whole eggs. A tablespoonful of melted butter. Put the sugar in a saucepan, grate in the rind of one lemon, squeeze the juice without the seeds, pour in the water and let come to a boil; mix the corn .starch in a little water, pour it in the saucepan when the syrup is boiling and take it off the fire at once, mix in the eggs slightly beaten and the butter. Bake in a pie tin lined with puff paste rolled out very thin; sift powdered sugar over the pie when done, or else beat six whites to a stiff froth, add a basting spoonful of sugar; spread this meringue over the pie with- out taking out of the oven; bake with the oven door open, to a straw color. 918-LEMON PIE NO. 2. 10 ozs. of sugar. 5 lemons. lYz cups of cream. 9 yolks of eggs. 3 whites. Put the sugar into a bowl and grate the rind of two lemons into it, squeeze in the juice, beat the yolks light and mix tiie cream with them, pour this mixture in the bowl with the lemon and sugar, and just before filling the pie beat the three whites to a stiff froth and stir them in. No meringue or sugar needed on top of this rich pie. 9t9— LEMON PIE NO. 3. I lb. of sugar. A coffee cupful of water. 4 lemons. A basting spoonful of butter. 6 eggs. Cut one of the lemons into thin slices and keep to strew in the pie when ready to fill; grate the rind of the others into the sugar, squeeze in the juice and mix with the water, have (this) hot so as to extract the lemon flavor; beat the eggs and mix them in; fill the pies and put in the lemon slices; when done sift powder- ed sugar over. 154 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 920— WASHINGTON PIE. Bake two sheets of ordinary cake made as directed in No. 1147; spread one sheet thickly with pastry cream; place the other over; dredge powdered sugar on top. Another way is to spread pastry cream between and on top. 92 J— MOCK LEMON PIE. I pint of water. X lb. of cracker crumbs. }ilh. oi sugar. ^ teaspoonful of tartaric acid. I teaspoonful of lemon extract. 3 eggs. Mix all these ingredients together cold, beat them vigorously and bake in pie crusts. 922— CRANBERRY PIE. A pound of cranberries. 6 ozs. of sugar. Just enough water to cover the bottom of the saucepan. Cook with the steam shut in at the side of the range as they will scorch easily; mash through a colander, add a little more sugar if necessary; bake in open pies, or cover with a lattice work made of strips of crust the size of a pencil. 923— CUSTARD PIE. 4 eggs. 1)4 pints of milk. X 1^- of sugar. Lemon, nutmeg, or any flavoring to taste. Beat the eggs and sugar together, add the milk gradually, then the flavoring ex- tract; bake in deep pie tins lined with a thin sheet of puff paste with high edges. A good custard pie should be very thick. J* 924— PINEAPPLE CREAM PIE. I pint of pineapple chopped very fine. 6 ozs. sugar. }4 cup of cream. 6 yolks of eggs. Pound the chopped pineapple to a pulp, mix it with the sugar and cook a few minutes, add the cream and yolks of eggs well beaten together, and fill the open pies. The same mixture stirred over the fire until cooked thick makes a good fill- ing to spread on layer cakes or for tart filling. 925-ARROWROOT PIE. I pint of milk. A basting spoonful of corn starch, X ft>- of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 3 eggs. Flavoring extract. Mix the starch with a little of the cold milk, boil the rest of the milk with the sugar in it and stir the corn starch in the boiling mixture; add the butter and eggs and take from the fire immediately; bake in crust as directed for custard pies. 926— PUMPKIN PIE. I pint of mashed pumpkin. A basting spoonful of sugar. As much of butter. I egg. A cupful of milk. Ground cinnamon. Mix all together and bake in deep pie pans as directed at No. 923. 927— PUMPKIN PIE, NO. 2. I pint of dried cooked pumpkin. X ft*, of butter. 6 ozs. of sugar. 3 eggs. I cup of milk. Ginger or nutmeg. Mix all the ingredients together except the eggs, beat these in last; bake in deep pie pans. 928-SWEET POTATO PIE. X K). of mashed sweet potatoes. X lb. of granulated sugar. 3 ozs. of butter. 3 eggs. )4 teacupful of brandy. }i teacupful of wine. Steam the potatoes, then mash them through a sieve, mix in the butter while they are hot, then the sugar, brandy and PRACTlCAIy AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 155 wine; separate the eggs, beat the yolks, add these, then whip the whites to a stiff froth and stir in last; bake in deep pie pans; slice cooked sweet potatoes in the crust; when done sift powdered sugar over. 929— PUMPKIN PIE WITHOUT EGGS. I pint of pumpkin. y^ lb. of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. Flavoring of nutmeg. Mash the dry steamed pumpkin through a colander, mix the sugar and butter with it and simmer at the side of the range until it becomes thick; flavor and bake in crusts. 930— SQUASH CUSTARD PIE. Make a custard of 1 pint of milk. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 3 eggs. A cupful of mashed squash. Beat the eggs and sugar together, add the milk gradually, then the squash; bake in the usual manner. 931— SQUASH PIE. I pint of dry mashed squash. 4 ozs. of molasses. A basting spoonful of butter. , 4 eggs. Yt teaspoonful of ginger and allspice. I pint of milk. Mix the butter with the squash while it is still hot, then the molasses and re- maining ingredients, mix thoroughly and bake in crusts. 932— VINEGAR PIE. I cup of water. yi cup of vinegar. y^ ft), of brown sugar. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 2 ozs. flour. Yi, teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Boil the water, vinegar and butter to- gether, mix the sugar, flour and cinna- mon dry and dredge into the boiling liquid, beating all the time; take off the fire as soon as partly thickened and before it boils. May be baked in open pies or with a top crust. 933— BUTTER PIE. 1 pint of cream. ^ lb. of fresh butter. Yz lb. of sugar. 2 ozs. of flour. Boil the butter and milk together, mix the flour and sugar dry and stir into the boiling milk; take the mixture from the fire as soon as it begins to thicken; bake like custard in deep pie pans lined with a thin sheet of paste. 934-CREAM CURD PIE. Yz lb. of curd. ^ lb. of butter. 6 ozs. of sugar. 2 eggs. 3 }^olks of eggs. Yz cupful of milk. 2 ozs. of currants. Flavoring. Mash the curd through a sieve, mix in other ingredients and bake in crusts. The curd should be made of two quarts of milk curdled with rennet. 935- POTATO CREAM PIE. Yz lb. of mashed potatoes. X ft>. of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 3 eggs. Yz cup of mixed brandy and milk. Boil good mealy potatoes and mash them through a sieve, add the butter while still hot, then the sugar, milk and flavoring; separate the eggs, beat the yolks and add them in, then the whites whipped to a stiff froth and stir these in just before baking; bake in the usual manner, and sift powdered sugar over when done. 936— STRAWBERRY PIE. Fill the pie with raw strawberries, strew sugar over them, dust a little flour and bake with a top crust. Canned ber- 156 PRACTICAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. ries can also he used, but the juice must be strained off and sugar added to the fruit. 937-PEACH PIE. Peach pies can be made in all the ways prescribed for apple pies. 938 -GOOSEBERRY PIE. To a pouml of fruil add three-fourths of a pound of sugar; cook with the steam shut in and when done partly mash with the back of a spoon ; fill the pie and cover with a full crust or as directed for cran- berry pies. J* 939— VARIOUS FRUIT PIES. Plum, quince, rhubarb, banana and plantain can all be made into pies fol- lowing the directions given in No. 913 for apple pies. lUueberry, raspberry, currant, black- berry ami all such small fruit are apt to bake too juicy, so they should be cooked without the addition of water and the surplus juice strained off. 940-CHOCOLATE PIE. 1 quart of milk. }4 lb. of sugar. 4 ozs. of flour. 2 basting spoonfuls of grated chocolate. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 5 yolks of eggs. 8 whites of eggs and a basting spoonful of sugar. Flavoring extract. Boil the milk with the grated chocolate and half of the sugar, mix the flour and the rest of the sugar thoroughly together dry, beat them in the boiling mixture, then add the butter aiul yolks of eggs also well beaten atul remove the mixture from the fire immediately; bake in deep pie pans lined with a thin sheet of puff paste. Make a meringue with the whites of eggs atul sugar as directed elsewhere and spread over the pie while still in the oven and bake to a straw color with the oven door open. 940— COCOANUT CUSTARD PIE. Make a custard of: I pint of milk. 3 eggs. A basting spoonful of sugar. Then mix in: X lb. of cocoauut. Bake in tins lined with a very thin sheet of puff paste. May be served plain or with a meringue on top. 942 -COCOANUT PIE, NO. 2. I pint of milk. A heaping bastinj; spoonful of sugar. A tablespoonful of corn starch A basting spoonful of butter. X lb. of grated cocoatmt. 3 eggs. Boil the milk, mix the sugar and starch and stir them in; when the milk is boil- ing put in the butter and cocoanut, and take frojn the fire innuediately, let cool below the boiling point, then stir in the eggs well beaten; sift powdered sugar over the pies after they are baked, or cover with ordinary meringue, with cocoa- nut sprinkled over before they are put into the oven. 943-WHITE COCOANUT PIE. Make as directed in the preceding rec- ipe, let it become cold, and instead of whole eggs add six whites whipped to a froth, flavor with orange flower water, good for cocoauut fanchonettes — see rec- ipe elsewhere. 944— MERINGUE FOR PIES. Whip the whites of eggs to a froth; four to eight whites to each pie accord- ing to the thickness that the meringue is wanted; beat them stiff enough so they will not fall out of the bowl when it is turned upside down; put in a tablespoon- ful of granulated sugar to each white, beat a little after the sugar is in; should be spread on the pies when just done without taking them out of the oven and baked with the oven door open; if the oven is ho^ enough to brown the me- ringue quickly they will surely fall or PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 157 run; they should be baked in from six to twelve minutes not more than straw col- or and dry on top. As soon as the meringue is spread on the pies, sift gran- ulated sugar over. The secret of making tall thick meringues on pies is all in the baking. 945-APPLE TURNOVEPIS. Roll out a thin sheet of pufT paste, cut it out in rounds as large as a saucer, place a spoonful of dried stewed apples in the middle of the puff paste, double over, press the two edges together and crimp with the thumb and finger; when the baking pan is full of the turnovers brush them with egg and water and dredge granulated sugar on top; bake in the oven luitil crisp and of a nice color. 946-PATTY SHELLS. Cut out puff paste the size of a silver dollar, cut a round hole into half of them and brush the others over with water; place the ones with the holes in on top of the others, brush over with beaten eggs and bake in a hot oven ; fill with any kind of creams, jellies or fillings. 947 -TARTS. An easy way to make tart shells is to line patty pans with puff paste or sweet tart paste rolled out thin; bake them in a hot oven, and fill with stewed fruits, creams, etc. 948— LEMON TARTS. Roll out a thin sheet of puff paste, cut it out with a patty or tart cutter, brush over with egg wash and bake; when done raise the lid with a table knife and fill with the lemon butter mixture No. 971. 949— VOL-AU-VENTS. (Tartlets or Pattie Shells. ) Roll out fine puff paste to about a quar- ter of an inch in thickness, cut out with a double cutter; place the tartlets in pans like biscuits; brush them over with beaten eggs and water in e(|ual (juantities and bake in a brisk oven; lift out the lid made by the cutter in the middle with the end of a knife and fill with whatever is desired. 950— PUFF TARTS. Line pattie pans with jnilT paste and fill these with corn staroli pulT mixture, bake in a moderate oven; when done ice with various flavored icings, fill with whipped cream, chocolate or coffee pas- try cream. The filling should be done with a patent filler, but a forcing bag with small tube can be used instead, if care is exercised. jt 95J— VANILLA TARTLETS. Rake puff paste shells, fill them with vanilla pastry cream, make a border around the edge with meringue, using a star pointed tube; dust lightly with pul- verized sugar and brown in the oven. 952-ELDORADOS. Cut puff paste rings with a doughnut cutter, ^^ of an inch thick, brush these over with a thin egg wash and dip them in a mixture of chopped ahnoiuls and granulated sugar and bake in a hot oven; when done spread jam on the l)ottoms and stick two together. 953— MERINGUE TARTS. Line nuiflin tins with pie jjaste; partly fill with jam; when they are baked make a meringe border arouiul the edge, sprin- kle pulverized sugar on top aiul brown in the oven. 954-CREAM ROLLS. Wind a thin sheet of puff paste around a tin tube lyi inches in diameter and 4 inches long; brush over with beaten eggs, roll in granulated sugar and bake in a hot oven; when done remove the tube and fill with whipped cream or meringue. 955— PATTY SHELL. A delicate sort is made by frying the 158 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. coating of batter that will adhere to a solid copper or nickel plated shape that is dipped in it, then immersed in hot lard. The shell can be pulled oflF when done, the shape wiped and dipped in the batter again for an other. The batter will not adhere if the metal shape is too hot. The frying batter No. 209 is best for this pur- pose; fill with minced mushrooms in cream or various other preparations de- scribed elsewhere. 956-VARIOUS FRUIT PATTIES. Any kind of fruit jelly, jams, lemon or honey butter, orange filling, etc. , can be used in patty shells or vol-au-vents made as described elsewhere in this book. The patties or vol-au-vents should be named like the paeparation they are filled with — lemon patties if they are filled with lemon preparation, or chicken patties if filled with chicken preparation, and so on. 957— CUTTERS FOR TARTLETS AND OYSTER PATTIES. See index and engravings for various cutters suitable for oyster patties, vol-au- vent, etc. 958— APPLE CREAM. 2 cups of grated apple. I cup of sugar. A tablespoonful of butter. A tablespoonful of water. Flavoring of lemon. Grate the apples, put them in a sauce- pan with all the other ingredients and stir over the fire about ten minutes. Used for vol-au-vents, patties or apple cream cake. (^* ^9* (^* ((?• (^* ■^* Pastry Creams^ Fillings and Conserves* 959— COFFEE PASTRY CREAM. I pint of clear, strong coffee. I pint of cream. ^ ft), of white sugar. % tt). of flour. 5 eggs. A tablespoonful of butter. Set the cream and coffee on to boil, mix the flour and sugar together while dry, then sprinkle them in the cream when it is boiling and keep beating until it gets hot again without boiling, move it back on the range, stir in the five eggs and stir slightly for fifteen minutes, or until thick and well cooked. 960— CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM. 1 quart of milk. % lb. of sugar. % lb. of flour. 2 ozs. of grated chocolate. A basting spoonful of butter. 5 yolks of eggs. Boil the milk, butter and grated choco- late together, mix the flour and sugar dry and beat them in the boiling milk, and finish as directed for Coffee Pastry Cream; when cold flavor with vauilla. 961— PASTRY CREAM. 1 pint of milk. 6 ozs. of granulated sugar. 2 ozs. of corn starch. As much of butter. 6 yolks of eggs. Flavoring extract. Boil the milk and sugar together, mix the starch with a little water, pour it in the saucepan when the milk is boiling and stir up before it boils again, add the eggs and butter and stir briskly until the mixture becomes thick; do not flavor un- til it is cold. This is used instead of whipped cream for puffs, eclairs and va- rious other articles for which this cream has been prescribed. 962— CHEESE PUFF FILLING. % lb. of cheese. J!4: lb. of butter. % cupful of milk. 4 j'olks of eggs. Salt and white pepper. Grate the cheese, put it in a saucepan with all the other ingredients, stir over the fire until it becomes thick, but do not let it boil. 963— BEST MINCE MEAT. 2 lbs. of lean boiled beef. I lb. of beef suet. I lb. of apples. I lb. of currants. I lb. of seedless raisins. I lb. of brown sugar. |4f lb. of citron. I quart can of pears. ^ lb. of prepared ginger. % dozen oranges. 3 lemons. I cup of rum. 1 cup of brandy. 2 cups of port wine. I oz. of mixed ground spices (nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, cloves). Grate the orange and lemon rinds, squeeze in the juice and mix all the dry articles together, pour the liquors over and put the mince meat in a fruit jar, seal and let it stand two weeks before us- ing. This is the choicest English recipe. 964-STANDARD MINCE MEAT. I lb. of raisins. I lb. of currants. i6o PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 1 lb. of apples. I R). of brown sugar. I ft), of lean boiled beef. I ft), of beef suet. ^ lb. of candied citron. Candied peel of one orange and lemon. I oz. of ground spices. 3 pints of sweet cider. I cupful of brandy. Chop the beef and suet fine, season with a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and chop the rest of the dry articles together, pour the liquids over; fill fruit jars, seal them carefully; will be ready to use in ten days. This recipe can be made with more or less fruit, with or without the brandy as desired; it can be varied ac- cording to circumstances and taste. 965— CHEAP MINCE MEAT. 1 lb. of lean beef. lyi lbs. of beef suet. 2 lbs. of currants. i8 ozs. of apples. ^ lb. of seedless raisins. ^ lb. of brown sugar. I tablespoonful of minced ground spices. ^ lb. of candied citron. I cup of brandy. 3 pints of cider. Mix all the dry articles together except the raisins, put these in whole. 966— CHEAP MINCE No. 2. ^ lb. of bread. I lb. of boiled beef. I lb. of brown sugar. 1 pint of molasses. ^ lb. of dried apple. ^ lb. of suet. }i lb. of seedless raisins. ^ lb. of currants. 2 ozs. of mixed ground spice. A level teaspoonful of black pepper. I pint of vinegar. The peel of 2 oranges. A teaspoonful of salt. Pour a qviart of cold water over the bread, let it stand an hour or so and mash it through a colander; boil the apples in as much water then chop them, add the juice and the rest of the ingredients, mix in the usual way; boil the orange peels a quarter of an hour and mince them fine; cider can be used instead of vinegar. 967-LEMON CONSERVE. Yz lb of sugar. 3 lemons. A basting spoon,ful of butter. 3 yolks of eggs. I whole egg. Put the butter and sugar together in a saucepan, grate in the rinds of the lemons and the juice without the seeds, then stir it over the fire until it boils, beat in the yolks and cook about ten minutes more, stirring all the time; when the mixture is thick take it off and use for filling vol-au- vents, tarts, small pies, etc. 968— ALMOND CONSERVE. yi lb. of almonds. 3 basting spoonfuls of water. % lb. of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 4 yolks of eggs. Blanch the almonds and chop them fine; boil the sugar and water together, when it is a thick syrup add the minced almonds and butter; boil four or five min- utes longer then stir in the yolk of eggs and the mixture is ready when thickened. 969-FLORlDA CONSERVE FOR ECLAIRS. A suitable preparation for eclairs, cream cake, tartlets, etc. ^ lb. of sugar. ■ X lb. of fresh grated cocoanut. 2 good sized oranges. 2 lemons. A basting spoonful of butter. 4 yolks of eggs. Grate the rinds of the lemons and squeeze the juice into the sugar; do not put in the seeds as they will make the preparation bitter, boil this syrup, add the butter and cocoanut, let come to a boil again, beat in the j'olks and let these cook three or four minutes. If fresh cocoanut cannot be had, dessicated may be used, previously moistened with a little sweetened water. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. i6i 970— PINEAPPLE CONSERVE. Yz lb. of sugar. 1 can of pineapples. A tablespoonful of butter. 2 eggs. Mash the pineapple to a pulp, add half of the juice from the can, the sugar and butter, let come to a boil, then add the beaten eggs and stir over the fire a few minutes until it thickens. 971— LEMON BUTTER. Yz lb. of sugar. 3 lemons. A basting spoonful of butter. 4 yolks of eggs. I whole egg. Boil the lemon juice, grated rind and sugar together, throw in the butter and stir in the eggs, cook slowly for about ten minutes, let it cool ready for use. 972— LEMON FILLING FOR PIES AND TARTS. 3 lemons. Yt cup of sugar. A teacupful of water. A basting spoonful of butter. A level basting spoonful of flour. 3 eggs. Boil the water with the grated lemon rind, juice and butter; mix the flour and sugar together and beat them in ; when the liquid in the kettle is boiling add the eggs and stir over a moderate fire about eight minutes. 973-ORANGE FILLING. 1 lb. of sugar. 4 oranges. Juice of 3 lemons. % lb. of butter. Yz dozen yolks of eggs. 2 whole eggs. Yz teaspoonful of orange flower water. Boil the sugar and water with the grated rind of the oranges, squeeze in the juice of the oranges and lemons without the bitter seeds and stir the syrup slowly until it boils, then beat in the yolks of eggs and cook until the mixture is thick- ened, add the orange flower water and a half teaspoonful of rose extract. 974— RHUBARB MARMALADE. 1 quart of finely cut rhubarb. 2 cups of sugar. Peels of three oranges. Grate the rinds of oranges into a sauce- pan with the rhubarb and sugar, add a half teacupful of water and simmer at the side of the range with the steam shut in for about an hour. 975— PINEAPPLE CREAM FOR FILLING. See recipe for pineapple cream pie. 976— COCOANUT FILLING. Yz lb. of grated cocoanut. Yz cupful of milk. Yz lb. of sugar. 2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. Whites of four eggs. The rind of half an orange. Cut the orange rind, pared very thin, in small pieces, boil it with the sugar, milk, butter and beaten whites; take the mixture olT the range as soon as it thick- ens and add the cocoanut. A good filling for layer or other kinds of cake. 977— APRICOT JAM FOR TARTS. Take one can of apricots, strain the juice, mash the fruit, add as much sugar as you have fruit pulp; put in a saucepan as much sugar as you have juice, boil gently for thirty minutes, skim, then add the apricot pulp and let it simmer slowly until it is thick. 978— ORANGE BUTTER. Yz lb. of sugar. Yt lb. of butter. 8 eggs. 2 oranges. Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of the oranges into a deep saucepan with the sugar in it, add the butter and eggs slightly beaten, set the mixture over the fire and when it becomes thick remove it l62 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. from the fire; care must be taken that it does not burn ; this mixture can be cook- ed in a double dish; when done beat a few minutes. A goodfilling for ordi- nary orange pies without meringue. 979-CURRANT CREAM nLLING. A cup of red currant jelly. I pint of rich cream. 5 eggs. Warm the jelly in a double dish just enough to melt it and beat it with the eggs and cream ; use for tarts, vol-au-vents or open pies. 980— NUT FILLING. % lb. of almond paste. « }^ lb. of grated almond meat. % lb. pulverized sugar. Sufficient Rhine wine to make a soft paste. Q^V ^V ^« ^W g^V (^W ^« (^W f^% f^^ ^v Puddings and Sauces* 981— PLAIN SHORT PASTE FOR DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. I lb. of flour. X lb. of butter. A teaspoonful of salt. A cupful of water. Rub the butter and flour together, put in the salt and water, work the dough smooth, then roll out on a floured board; it is then ready for use for apple dump- lings and various other puddings, recipes for which will follow. 982— RASPBERRY PUDDING. Make a plain short paste as directed in No. 981. Line an earthen baking dish with a sheet of the paste and fill with fresh picked raspberries; wet the edges, roll out a round sheet of paste and lay it on top; cut off the surplus by rolling the edge with the rolling-pin. Wet and flour a pudding cloth and lay the bowl upon the middle, gather the cloth over the top of the pudding and tie safely; drop the pudding up- side-down in a kettle of boiling water, boil two hours, dip in cold water, take off the cloth, cvit a hole in the top and put in enough sugar to sweeten; serve in the bowl it has cooked in, set on a plate. Any kind of fruit can be used for pudding in this manner. 983— BOILED APPLE DUMPLING. Make a plaiu short "paste No. 981. Pare and core good cooking apples, cut them in halves; roll a sheet of paste about a quarter of an inch thick, put the apples in the dough, cut the paste all around the apples and pinch it off underneath until all closed up; there must be no holes or thin places to let in the water; drop the dumplings in a saucepan of boiling water with the steam shut in; cook about half an hour, and serve with sauce. 984— HOMINY PUDDING. A cup of cooked hominy grits. A tablespoonful of butter. A tablespoonful of sugar. I yolk of e^g. % cup of milk. Mix all the ingredients together and bake in a buttered pudding dish; will be done in ten minutes; serve with port wine or any other suitable sauce. 985— BREAD PUDDING. I lb of thin slices of bread. % lb. of butter. 1 quart of milk. yi teacupful of sugar. 2 eggs. 2 yolks of eggs. ^2 pound of currants. Grating of nutmeg. Cut the crust from the bread, spread with the butter and place in two layers in the pudding pan, sprinkle currants on top, beat the eggs, sugar and nutmeg, spread this over the bread, cover the pud- ding with buttered paper and bake half an hour; when done it resembles custard and should be served hot with transpar- ent or brandy sauce. 986— PASTE FOR STEAMED ROLL. A pound of flour. 1 cupful of water. 6 ozs. of butter. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Put the flour into a bowl, make a hol- low in the middle and pour in the water and mix smooth ; turn the dough on the table, knead it a little and roll it out, drop the butter in lumps an inch apart all over, sift a little flour over, fold in three as you would puff paste, and c®unt this one; roll it out again, spread half of the baking powder over like you would 1 64 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. flour, fold over again and count this two; at the next rolling sprinkle the rest of the baking powder and fold, making all to- gether four times. Ready to use for boil- ed fruit rolls of various descriptions. Jit 987— BOILED APPLE ROLL. Pare, core and chop enough apples to make two cupfuls when minced; make a boiled roll paste as directed elsewhere, use only half, roll this out thin, spread the apples as evenly as possible all over, roll up and tie in a pudding cloth which should be previously damp- ened and floured, drop into a kettle of boiling water, which should be kept boil- ing constantly for an hour and three- quarters; pick ihe cloth with a needle several times so as to let the steam es- cape and prevent the cloth from opening; serve with hard sauce. 988— VARIOUS FRUIT ROLLS. Can be made in a manner sim.ilar to the preceding recipe; if currant, apricot, peach or huckleberry are used they are better stewed and mashed through a col- ander, cooled and used as directed for apple rolls. 989— INDIVIDUAL PUFF PUDDING. I quart of milk. A basting spoonful of butter. X lb. of flour. yi, lb. of sugar, 5 eggs. Mix the flour and sugar dry and when the milk is boiling stir it in and cook a few minutes, then add the eggs and sim- mer from fifteen to twenty minutes; when it is below the boiling point beat in half a dozen yolks of eggs one at a time, flavor with extract of orange; whip the whites of eight eggs firm enough to hold an egg, stir them in lightly and bake in paper cases fifteen minutes in a quick oven. 990— CHOCOLATE PUFF PUDDING. Proceed exactly as directed in preced- ing recipe using chocolate pastry cream instead. 991— LEMON MERINGUE PUDDING, I quart of white bread crumbs. I quart of water. 4 ozs. of finely chopped suet. ]/i. lb. of sugar. The rind and juice of two lemons. 7 yolks of eggs. % teaspoonful of soda. Grate the rinds of the lemons in the breadcrumbs, mix in the suet, squeeze the lemon juice in the water, pour this over the bread then add the sugar and yolks of eggs beaten together, then the soda mixed in a little warm water, bake;^ when done make a meringue of the seven whites of eggs, a quarter pound of granu- lated sugar and flavoring of lemon ex- tract, spread this over the pudding and bake straw color; serve with vanilla sauce or sweetened cream. 992— INDIVIDUAL LEMON PUD- DING. Make half of the preceding mixture, but instead of baking it, stir in a sauce- pan over the fire until it has the consis- tency of Cream Puff Paste; beat three yolks of eggs and stir them in, take off the mixture, let it cool a little; beat the whites of eggs firm enough so that they will not fall out of the bowl if turned up- side-down, mix these in lightly and bake in paper cases; they must be served im- mediately as they will fall almost as sooa as they are taken out of the oven. 993— RICE CAKE WITH CURRANT JELLY. I quart of cooked rice. 3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of sugar. 3 yolks of eggs. I teacupful of milk. Flavoring extract. Mix all together thoroughly, mashing the rice with a spoon, smooth over and put a layer about an inch thick into a pan; bake in a brisk oven until it acquires a brown color on top; serve with straw- berry jelly. 994— STEAMED TAPIOCA PUDDING, yi lb. of tapioca. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 165 3 cups of milk. X lb. sugar. 1 basting spoonful of butter. 3 yolks of eggs. 2 whole eggs. I lemon. Soak the tapioca in half of the milk in a warm place about two hours, then let the remaining milk come to a boil with the salt, sugar and butter, turn this in the dish containing the tapioca and let it simmer fifteen minutes with the lid on, then beat in the lemon rind and juice, butter a mold, put in the mixture and steam half an hour. 995— ROYAL STEAMED PUDDING. 7 ozs. of butter. 12 ozs. of sugar. 6 eggs. Yz lb. of flour. A small lemon. € ozs. of almonds. % lb. of citron. % lb, of seedless raisins. Cream the butter and sugar, then add the eggs one at a time and the flour last in five portions; cut the citron into fine shreds and mix with the other fruit, dust plentifully with flour and mix with the batter; steam in buttered molds about three hours; serve with any kind of sauce suitable. 996— GRAHAM PUDDING. I quart of whole wheat mush. 3 ba.sting spoonfuls of molasses. A heaping basting spoonful of chopped suet. 3 eggs. 3 cups of milk. Yz teaspoonful of ground cinnamon and mace. Y lb. of seedless raisins. Mix all the ingredients together except the raisins and eggs, beat the eggs thor- oughly, add them in and when the mix- ture is in the pan strew the raisins over; serve with maple syrup or any other sweet sauce. 997— CHOCOLATE PUDDING. I quart of milk. 2 ozs. of grated chocolate. 8 ozs. of sugar. 3 ozs. of corn starch. I tablespoonful of melted butter. 4 eggs. A tablespoonful of vanilla extract. Boil the milk with the sugar and choc- olate in it, and beat it occasionally until the chocolate is all dissolved; mix the starch in a little cold milk, stir it in and remove from the fire immediately, then beat in the butter, eggs and flavoring ex- tract; bake from fifteen to twenty min- utes, or until it is just set in the middle; serve cold with whipped cream. 998— APPLE PUDDING. I quart of apple pulp. Yz lb. of sugar. X lb. of butter. 10 yolks of eggs. I lemon. Mash the apple, mix in the other in- gredients, grate the lemon rind, bake in a buttered earthen dish; serve with gol- den sauce mixed with an equal quantity of whipped cream. 999— TREMONT FRUIT PUDDING. I lb, of bread crumbs finely minced. 6 ozs, of chopped suet, 12 ozs, of seedless Sultana raisins. 12 ozs. of chopped apple, 8 eggs. 8 ozs, of sugar. Nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients together, and beat the eggs, sugar and extract, stir all together, put the mixture in a pudding cloth previously dampened and floured, steam three hours; serve with brandy or hard sauce. looo— BAKED RICE PUDDING. I cup of rice. I cup of sugar. i^ quarts of milk. A pinch of salt. A basting spoonful of butter. Wash the rice carefully in two or three waters; mix the sugar, salt and a little cinnamon, put it in the milk and add the i66 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. melted butter, bake about three hours; cover with a greased paper to prevent scorching; serve with sweetened cream. looi— BAKED RICE AND APPLE PUDDING. Make the rice pudding preparation us- ing only one quart of milk and a heap- ing coffee cupful of ^'apples, pared, cored and sliced, drop the slices of apples in the fpudding, cover with a buttered pa- per, bake three hours and serve with golden or hard sauce. I002— BAKED RICE AND RAISIN PUDDING. . Made as directed in the preceding rec- ipe using raisins instead of apples. 1003— RICE CUSTARD PUDDING. 4 cups of dry cooked rice. A basting spoonful of butter. X lb. of sugar. 4 yolks of eggs. I pint of milk. A little lemon extract. Add the butter and sugar to the hot, fresh cooked rice; beat the yolks with the milk and add this gradually, then the flavoring, put in a greased pudding dish and bake half an hour. 1004— TAPIOCA CUSTARD. 6 ozs. of tapioca. 3 cups of milk. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 4 yolks of eggs. I whole egg. A pinch of salt. Orange rind for flavoring. Wash the tapioca, soak it in half of the milk for two and a half hours; boil the milk with the sugar in it, put in the soak- ed tapioca and let it cook slowly about half an hour; beat the eggs and mix with the tapioca, pour the mixture in an earth- en dish, bake in a quick oven until it is just set in the middle; if allowed to cook any more the milk will curdle and the pudding lose its richness; serve with wine or transparent sauce. 1005— TAPIOCA MERINGUE. Make the tapioca custard of the pre- ceding recipe. When it is baked spread a meringue over the top made of the whites of eggs and granulated sugar fla- vored with vanilla; bake with the oven door open. See recipe for Lemon Me- ringue Pie. 1006— FARINA PUDDING. 1 quart of milk. 4 ozs. of farina. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 3 eggs. Boil the milk with the sugar in it, sprinkle in the farina, stirring vigorously all the time to avoid any lumps, when the farina is all in let it cook slowly half an hour, mix in the butter and beaten eggs and bake fifteen minutes in a butter- ed pudding dish. 1007— STEAMED BREAD PUDDING. 12 ozs. of white breadcrumbs. 6 ozs. of sugar. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 1 pint of milk. 2 eggs. 4 yolks of eggs. % teaspoonful of baking powder. Extract of lemon. Boil the milk with the butter and sugar in it, pour this over the bread crumbs, let it stand half an hour, then beat the yolks and whole eggs together and mix them in, add the flavoring extract, and lastly the baking powder, beat vigorously five minutes; put in a buttered mold -and steam an hour and a half; serve with ma- ple syrup or any other suitable sauce. ^ 1008- STEAMED POUND PUDDING. 12 ozs. of white sugar. 12 ozs. of fresh butter. 10 eggs. I lb. of flour. Cream the butter and sugar together, beat^in the eggs two at a time then add the flour in eight portions, when the flour is all in beat the mixture vigorously for a PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 167 minute or two; steam in tall round mould continuously for two hours; ser^^e with wine or brandy sauce. 1009— SULTANA RAISIN PUDDING. }i lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. % lb. of granulated sugar. As much of butter. 5 whites of eggs. % cup of milk. A rounded teaspoonful of baking pow- der. 8 ozs. of flour. A basting spoonful of brandy. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the whites one at a time, mix in the baking powder with the flour, put that in in small portions then add the milk, brandy, vanilla, and raisins, dusted with flour; steam two hours; serve with wine sauce or any other agreeable to the taste. loio— COCOANUT PUDDING. Make the Sultana raisin pudding prep- aration; instead of raisins use a cupful of desiccated cocoanut. loi I— ALMOND PUDDING. Make the Sultana raisin pudding prep- aration and instead of raisins use a tea- cupful of blanched almonds. Dried fruit of any kind can be used in like manner. 1012— BRUSSELS PUDDING. 7 ozs. of butter. 6 ozs. of sugar. 6 eggs. 8 ozs. of flour. Orange extract, 6 ozs. of almonds. 6 ozs. of citron. 6 ozs. of seedless Sultana raisins. Mix the sugar, butter, eggs and flour in a similar way as described for pound cake, blanch the almonds, cut the citron in small pieces, dust the fruit and al- monds with flour, mix them in the batter; put in plain or ornamental molds and steam three hours; serve with lemon syr- up, brandy or curacoa sauce. 1013— BROWN FRUIT PUDDING, % lb of butter, 6 ozs, of sugar. 5 eggs. Yz lb. of flour. A teaspoonful of ground spices. The juice and rind of half a lemon. A basting spoonful of brandy. % lb. each of citron, raisins and cur- rants. Mix the butter, eggs, sugar and flour as j'ou would for pound cake, add the spices, brandy and lemon juice, dust the fruit with flour and mix them in, steam three and a half hours; serve with brandy or hard sauce. 1014— PINEAPPLE PUDDING. I lb. of pineapple. % lb. of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. Y teacupful of pineapple juice. I oz. of corn starch. 8 eggs. Mash the canned pineapple, then add the sugar a little at a time; stir the pulp and the sugar with the butter in it over the fire, mix the starch with the juice and add it to the contents of the sauce- pan, let it thicken, then beat in four yolks of eggs and cook ten minutes, take the mixture off the range and let it cool ; whip the eight whites of eggs to a stiff froth, stir in the remaining yolks of eggs, then the whites, bake in buttered custard cups or paper cases ten minutes in a mod- erate oven; dredge powdered sugar over the top when they are partly baked; serve just out of the oven, 1015— LIVERPOOL PUDDING, I lb, of slices of cake, 3 basting spoonfuls of brandy. I cupful of mixed seedless raisins and blanched almonds coarsely minced, A basting spoonful of butter. 2% cups of milk. 4 eggs. Spread the minced almonds and raisins over the cake, fill up a buttered mold, and put in the brandy and butter in small pieces; beat the eggs and milk to- gether and pour it in the mold; steam an hour and a quarter. i68 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 1016— ITAWAN PUDDING. Place in the bottom of custard cups a small white sponge drop, cover with a layer of minced raisins, over this place a macaroon, continue until the cup is full. Make a custard of four eggs to a pint of thin cream and a basting spoonful of sugar, fill the cups with all that the cakes will absorb and steam forty minutes; serve in the cups it has steamed in, with whipped cream piled over the top. 1017— PUMPKIN PUDDING. 1)4 lbs. of dried stewed pumpkin. A small teacupful of maple syrup. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 1 cup of cream. 5 eggs. )4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and cinnamon. Mash the dried stewed pumpkin through a colander, add the sugar, butter, cream and eggs beaten together, the spices last, bake in a buttered pudding dish; serve hot without sauce, or cold with whipped cream. 1018— SWEET POTATO PUDDING. 12 ozs. of baked sweet potatoes. 3 basting spoonfuls of butter. X lb. of sugar. 6 eggs. 2 basting spoonfuls of brandy. As much of sherry. Mash the potatoes through a colander so as to have 12 ounces of potatoes when ready to start the pudding, mix in the butter while still hot, then the sugar and sherry; separate the eggs, beat the yolks in the mixture, whip the whites to a firm froth, mix them lightly, bake in muffin tins or a large pudding dish ; serve with brandy or wine sauce; the potatoes must be very good and mealy. 1019— BOILED SUET PUDDING. I lb. of flour. 8 ozs. of suet, i^ cups of water. A small teaspoonful of salt. Chop the suet and rub it with the flour as you would butter in making baking powder biscuits, mix in the water and beat the dough thoroughly; dampen and flour a pudding bag, put in the dough, tie securely and boil three hours; the water should be boiling when the pud- ding is dropped in; serve with maple syrup. 1020— BOILED LEMON PUDDING. }4 lb. of flour. }4 lb. of suet. )4 lb. of white bread crumbs. A teacupful of granulated sugar. 2 lemons. 2 eggs. I pint of milk. A small teaspoonful of salt. )4 teaspoonful of soda. Mince the breadcrumbs very fine and mix the flour and the rest of the dry arti- cles together; beat the eggs with the milk, grate in the lemon rinds, squeeze in the juice, mix the soda with a little water, put it in the milk; mix all together, tie up in a pudding bag dampened and floured and boil two and a half hours; serve with sauce. 102 1— BROWN SUET PUDDING. I lb. of flour. ^ lb. of suet. 8 ozs. of molasses. 8 ozs. of raisins. }4 teaspoonful of salt. I teaspoonful of mixed ground spices. % teaspoonful of soda. 1 cup of milk. 2 eggs. Chop the suet very fine and mix the dry articles together; beat the eggs in the milk; mix the soda with a little water, pour it in the milk and mix all together; steam 2>/^ hours; serve with brandy or curacoa sauce. 1022— RAISIN SUET PUDDING. X lb. of flour. X lb. of suet. >^ lb. of sugar. }i lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. ^2 teaspoonful of salt. I cup of milk. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 169 2 eggs. % teaspoonful of soda. Chop th^ suet very fine, stir the dry articles together, beat the eggs with the milk, mix the soda with a little water, pour the liquids over the dry articles and mix thoroughly; steam four hours; serve with sauce. 1023— SULTANA PUDDING. }^ lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 8 ozs. of flour. I pint of milk. 4 eggs. A basting spoonful of melted butter. A basting spoonful of golden or maple syrup. A pinch of salt. Make a batter of the flour, milk, yolks of eggs, melted butter and syrup; beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, mix them in lightly, add the flour and raisins, bake in a quick oven, Jit 1024— HAVANA PUDDING. 1% lbs. of banana pulp. X lb. of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 1 cup of cream. 6 eggs. 2 basting spoonfuls of rum. I pineapple. Ground mace. Put the banana pulp in a saucepan with the sugar and butter, stir it over the fire until it is almost boiling, then take it off, add the cream and flavoring, then the yolks of eggs, and last the whites whipped to a stiff froth; bake in jelly pans or in individual pudding dishes, which must be well buttered as this prep- aration is apt to stick; bake fifteen min- utes in a moderately hot oven; slice the pineapple, put the slices in a hot syrup made of Port wine and granulated sugar; serve the pudding up-side-down on a slice of the pineapple with some of the sauce poured over. 1025— CURD 8 ozs. of curd. ^ lb. of butter. PUDDING. 6 ozs. of sugar. 2 whole eggs. 3 yolks. A teacupful of raisins and currants mixed. I cup of milk. A small teacupful of fine breadcrumbs. Lemon flavoring. Take two and a half quarts of milk and curdle it with rennet, rub the curd through a strainer with a masher, add the solid ingredients first, then the eggs and cream beaten together and bake in a buttered baking dish half an hour; serve with brandy custard. J* 1026— MINUTE PUDDING. 1 quart of milk. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 4 ozs. of corn starch. 1 basting spoonful of butter. 2 yolks of eggs. A pinch of salt. Flavoring extract. Boil the milk with the sugar in it, mix the starch with a little cold milk; when the milk and sugar is boiling pour the corn starch in, stirring quickly, stir about two minutes or until it is thick, then stir in the yolks beaten with their equal vol- ume of milk, take the kettle off the range immediately; add the butter and flavoring and pour the pudding in buttered pans; serve with cream. 1027— DUNDEE MERINGUE PUD- DING. 1 quart of milk. X lb. of corn starch. 2 ozs. of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 3 yolks of eggs. A pinch of salt. A teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Boil the milk with the sugar in it, mix the starch with a little additional cold milk and mix it in when the milk and sugar is boiling; when it has thickened take it off the fire, beat in the butter, then the beaten yolks of eggs mixed with their equal quantity of milk; flavor and bake about fifteen minutes, then spread orange Marmelade on top, set it back in I70 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY, the oven and when this is hot spread over a meringe paste made of six whites of eggs and four ounces of sugar; bake five minutes in a slack oven, or in the oven with the door open ; when the me- ringue is a straw color take it out and serve with custard sauce mixed with its equal quantity of whipped cream. 1028— BAKED FRUIT PUDDING. I pint of bread crumbs. I teacupful of chopped suet. I teacupful of seedless raisins. I teacupful of currants. I teacupful of sugar. 1 cup of milk. 2 eggs. y^ teaspoonful of mixed ground spices. ]/> teaspoonful of soda. Lemon extract. Crumble the bread and mix all the dry articles with it except the soda, dissolve this in the milk, beat the eggs, add the milk to them a little at a time and pour over the dry ingredients; add a teaspoon- ful of lemon extract; bake in a buttered pan from three-fourths of an hour to an hour; should be covered with a greased paper to prevent the scorching of the fruit. 1029— BAKED COCOANUT PUDDING. Yi lb. of grated cocoanut. I pint of bread crumbs. I pint of milk. I tablespoonful of butter. A basting spoonful of sugar. 1 lemon. 2 yolks of eggs. Grate the rind of lemon into the bread crumbs, squeeze the lemon juice into the milk, beat in the eggs and dissolve the sugar, mix the soda in a little water, add this to the liquid mixture and pour over the bread crumbs, add a cup of cocoanut lastly, bake about about half an hour; beat up the whites of six eggs, add a basting spoonful of granulated sugar and the remaining cocoanut; spread this meringue on top and bake with the oven door open unlil^it has acquired a light straw color; serve with lemon syrup. 1030— CORN MEAL PLUM PUDDING. 3 pints of milk. 18 ozs. of corn meal. X lb. of butter. A small teacupful of molasses. 4 eggs. 6 yolks of eggs. I lemon. Yz lb. of seed-less Sultana raisins. Yz lb. of currants. Make a mush of the milk and meal, let it cook slowly at the side of the range with the steam shut in for an hour an a half, then add the other ingredients, the eggs well beaten and fruit dusted with flour; steam two hours in well buttered moulds and serve with brandy sauce. 103 1— ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. \Yz lbs. of flour. I lb. of finely minced suet. I lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 12 ozs. of currants. y, lb. of candied citron. I tablespoonful of mixed ground spices (cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves). Mix these together and prepare the following fluid mixture: xYz cups of milk. A small half cup of reboiled molasses. 4 eggs. 8 ozs. of brown sugar. A teacupful of brandy. Yz teaspoonful of salt. Mix this thoroughly together and add to the rest of the ingredients, let this stand over night, and the next morning tie it up in a pudding bag and wrap this in another cloth, boil steadily 6^ hours; serve with brandy, sabayon or other sauce. 1032— GERMAN STEAMED PLUM PUDDING. I lb. of white bread crumbs. 8 ozs. of sugar. Yz lb. of finely minced suet. Yz lb. of seedless raisins. Yz lb. of currants. I cup of milk. 4 eggs. A teaspoonful of mixed ground spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, cloves). PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 171 3 basting spoonfuls of brandy. A pinch of soda and salt. Chop the bread crumbs very fine, add the suet and rest of the dry articles, wet with the milk, eggs and brandy, the soda dissolved in the milk; put the pudding in a bag and wrap this in two more cloths. 1033— BREAD CUSTARD PUDDING. I quart of white bread crumbs. 1 quart of milk. A basting spoonful of melted butter. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. The juice of half a lemon. 5 yolks of eggs. Crumb the bread very fine, grat° the rind of the lemon into it and squeeze the juice in the sugar; beat the yolks of eggs and add them' to the ni'lk and then the sugar and lastly the melted butter, pour this over the bread crumbs, stir it up and pour into a buttered tin pan, and bake a half hour. This pudding is better baked in thin pans than in earthen baking dishes, as it will bake quicker and prevent the milk from wheying; serve with wine sauce. IC34— BAKED CITRON PUDDING. Make the bread custard preparation No. 1033 and add to it a half pound of shredded citron. 1035— BROWN BREAD PUDDING. I quart of milk. 1 quart of graham bread crumbs. A basting spoonful of molasses. A basting spoonful of butter. 4 yolks of eggs. Yi teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Crumble the bread very fine, melt the butter and mix it in with the milk, but- ter and molasses, stir all together and bake about thirty minutes; serve with transparent sauce. 1036— BAKED BREAD PUDDING. 2 cupfuls of bread. 2 cupfuls of milk. I teacupful of finely minced suet. A basiiiig spoonful of sugar. 2 eggs. Grated nutmeg or lemon rind. Trim the dark crust from the bread, cut it in thin slices, then into dice; strew the suet in the bottom of a pan with the bread on top, mix the sugar, milk, eggs and nutmeg or lemon peel, pour this over the bread and suet in the pan; bake it until set in the middle. Serve with apple dumpling sauce made of \%. cups of boiling water. I cup of light brown sugar. A grated nutmeg. A heaping teaspoonful of flour. Mix the flour and sugar together dry, pour the boiling water over, add the but- ter and nutmeg and stir briskly over the fire until it boils. 1037— COTTAGE PUDDING. X lb. of butter. )i lb. of sugar. 3 eggs. 1 cup of milk. 12 ozs. of flour. A heaping teaspoonful baking powder. A pinch of salt. Cream the powder and sugar, add the eggs one at a time, then the milk and flour with the powder mixed in it, throw in the salt last and give the mixture a thorough beating; bake in shallow moulds, and serve cut in squares, with sauce. 1038- STEAMED CHESTNUT PUD- DING. 8 ozs. of chestnut pulp. A teacup of cream. 2 ozs. of fresh butter. A basting spoonful of sugar. 4 yolks of eggs. 4 whites. A pinch of salt. Vanilla flavoring. Boil three-fourths pound of chestnuts in water about an hour, peel them, scrape off the outside and mash through a sieve, moisten with the cream made hot, to facilitate the mashing, then mix all the ingredients but the whiles of eggs; beat thoroughly, and whip the whites firm and mix them in lightly, steam in a well buttered mould about thirty miimtes; serve with vanilla cu.stard sauce. 172 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 1039-^AVARIN PUDDING. 7 ozs. of grauulated sugar. 6 eggs. 7 ozs. flour. Vanilla extract. 2 basting spoonfuls of brandy. Beat the sugar and eggs together a half hour, then stir in the flour, vanilla ex- tract and brandy, sift the granulated sugar on top and bake in a moderate oven, ti should bake in about half an hour; when done mix together a cupful of curacoa and as much of orange syrup and make holes in the cake with the point of a knife, pour the curacoa mixture over it, and serve with plain custard sauce. 1040— COCOANUT PUDDING. (Individual.) 1 pint of milk. 3 ozs. of sugar. 2 ozs. of com starch. A basting spoonful of butter. }4 lb. of desiccated cocoanut. 6 whites of eggs. Lemon flavoring. Boil the milk with a tablespoonful of sugar; mix the flour and sugar together dry. and put them in all at once when the milk is boiling, stir rapidly and when cooked thick beat in the butter, then the cocoanut, take off the fire and when cool beat the whites of eggs to a firm froth, then beat the pudding mixture a few minutes and stir in the whites lightly, add the flavoring last; will bake in paper cases in about ten minutes; sift powdered sugar on top. 1041— BAKED TAPIOCA PUDDING. >2 lb. of tapioca. 3 cups of milk. A basting spoonful of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 2 eggs. Put the tapioca to soak in half of the milk; two hours later boil the other half of the milk with the sugar in it, and stir in the tapioca and let it simmer at the side of the range about twenty minutes; the tapioca should tlien be well cooked and transparent, if it is not so let it cook a little longer, then stir in the butter and eggs and bake; serve with cream or a suitable sauce. 1042— STEAMED POUND PUDDING. >^ lb. of sugar. 6 ozs. of butter. 5 eggs. )4 lb. of flour. Cream the sugar and butter together, add the eggs one at a time, then the flour in four portions, beat up well; fill a greased mould and steam an hour and a half. The mould must be tightly cov- ered, otherwise the steam will condense on the side of the mould and make the pudding sogg}-; ser\'e with wine sauce or orange syrup. 1043— QUEEN PUDDING. 2 cups of bread crumbs. 2 cups of milk. 2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. % teacupful of sugar. 2 yolks of eggs. ^2 cup of currant jelly. 3 whites of eggs and a basting spoonful of sugar for a meringfue. Mince the white bread crumbs very fine; mix the sugar, eggs, butter and milk, pour this over the bread crumbs, bake in the oven; when set spread the jelly over the top and set in the oven again. Whip the whites firm enough to hold up an egg, add the sugar; spread the meringue on top of the jelly, and bake with the oven door partly open. 1044— BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. }i lb. of corn meal. 1 quart of water. Set the water on the stove to boil, sprinkle in the com meal and make a mush of it, then add A heaping bsisting spoonful of finely minced suet. ^^ cup of molasses. 2 eggs. A level teaspoon ful of ground ginger. Beat all together and bake. Serve with cream, maple syrup, or any other suitable sauce. i ^ I 1045— BATTER PUDDING. j I ^2 cups of flour. ; ij4 pints of milk. i I tablespoonful of melted butter. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 173 3 eggs. ^ teaspoonful of salt. As much baking powder. Mix the flour and milk without lumps, add the melted butter, salt, powder, and the eggs lastly well beaten. Butter a baking pan, make it warm in the oven, pour in enough batter to have it a half inch thick and bake twenty minutes; served with maple syrup or any other pudding sauce. 1046— BREAD AND BUTTER PUD- DING. Yz lb. of bread cut into slices. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 2 cups of milk. A basting spoonful of sugar. 2 eggs. Yz cup of currants. A grated nutmeg. There must be no crust around the slices of bread. Spread the butter on these lightly, place two layers in a pud- ding dish with currants between and more on top; beat the sugar, eggs, milk and grated nutmeg together and pour this custard over the bread, cover with greased paper and bake about half an hour; serve with pure, fresh, sweetened cream. ^ 1047— STEAMED CABINET PUD- DING. Yt cup of butter. Yz cup of shredded citron. 6 cups of milk. 8 eggs. Yt cup of currant jelly. Enough slices of sponge cake to fill a two-quart pudding dish. Spread the slices of cake on one side with butter and the other with currant jelly, put three or four together, cut in square dice, mix the shredded citron with the cake, put this in the pudding dish, mix the eggs and milk together and pour over the cake and citron; press down lightly with a skimmer, when it has soaked a short time steam about half an hour; serve with whipped cream. 1048— BREAD CUSTARD. I pint of white bread crumbs. I pint of milk. A piece of butter the size of an ^Z'g. A basting spoonful of sugar. Yz grated nutmeg. I egg. Chop the bread fine, grate in the nut- meg, mix the milk with the t^%^ sugar and melted butter and mix it in, and pour this custard mixture over the bread crumbs, bake in a buttered pudding dish; let it remain in the oven about half an hour; serve with sauce. 1049— BIRDS' NEST PUDDING. I cup of flour. lYz pints of milk. A basting spoonful of sugar. Butter the size of a small lemon. 3 eggs. A pinch of salt. Sufficient nice ripe cooking apples to fill a two quart pudding dish. Pare and core the apples; fill the core cavities with sugar and butter mixed in equal proportions; put enough water in the bottom of a baking pan to just cover it; make a batter of all the other ingre- dients, beat it smooth and pour it over the apple and bake thirty-five minutes; serve with fresh sweetened cream. 1050— BOILED CINNAMON PUD- DING. I lb. of flour. 6 ozs. of minced suet. Yz lb. of sugar. Yz lb. of seedless raisins. Yz pint of milk. I egg. A pinch of salt. Cut all the discolored portions, skins and pieces of lean from the suet, mince it very fine and rub it in the flour, put in the other ingredients, stir all together vigorously, put into a pudding bag and boil five hours; take it out of the boiling water just before it is wanted; serve with brandy sauce. 174 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 105 1— GYPSY PUDDING. Make a sponge cake as directed in No. 1 1 35, bake in two shallow pans; spread one with jelly and put the other one on top. Make a custard as directed in No. 1078; put it in the pan, when it is cold drop in the cake. Whip a half pint of cream, flavor it with lemon or vanilla; serve a portion of the cake, some of the custard and a spoonful of the w'hipped cream on top. Jt 1052— BAKED CABINET PUDDING. Line the bottom of a two quart earthen baking dish with sponge cake, drop shreds of citron and bits of butter as large as lima beans; put another la3-er of cake on top; more butter and citron, then mix two eggs with three cups of milk and a basting spoonful of sugar, flavor this with grated lemon rind; beat well together; pour over the cake in a baking dish, cover with a sheet of greased paper, bake about twent)'-five minutes; when done finish with a meringue on top as directed for lemon pie; serve with plain sweet cream. 1053— BAKED BARLEY PUDDING. Boil the barley thoroughly; for two large cups use A basting spoonful of molasses. ^^ cup of minced suet. I egg. }4 cup of milk. A level teaspoonful of ground cinna- mon. Mix all together thoroughly and bake about thirty minutes. 1054— CURRANT SUET PUDDING. 12 ors. of flour. 8 ozs. of minced suet. ^2 lb. of currants. yi pint of water. A pinch of salt. Mix all the ingredients together; knead the dough in a long solid roll, tie it up in a cloth, sew it up securely on each side; boil about two and a half hours. When done dip the pudding in cold water so that the cloth will come off easily, and serve with brandy sauce or any other suitable sauce. 1055— BANANA PUDDING. (Individual.) Save the half of orange peels pre- viously used for some other purpose, notch the edges, or the^-^ can be split part way and tlie edge rounded in imita- tion of water-lilies, boil in several waters until they are tender; drain and boil a few minutes in heavy sugar syrup; drain them and roll in sugar, set them to dry on a buttered paper in the shape that you will want them when cold. Make a filling of 1 lb. of banana pulp. 3 basting spoonfuls of very fresh but- ter. A small teacup of sugar. 6 whole eggs. 2 yolks. 2 basting spoonfuls of brandy. j4 teaspoonful of ground mace. Mash the bananas with the butter, sugar, mace and the two yolks of eggs, stir overthe fire until partly cooked, let it cool and add the six raw yolks and the brandy and beat vigorously; whip the whites to a firm froth and mix them in lightly, fill the orange peels previously prepared, and bake on a buttered paper in a slack oven ten minutes; serve imme- diately. 1056— MACARONI PUDDING. 4 ozs. of macaroni. 1 pint of milk. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. I basting spoonful of butter. 1 teacupful of cream. 2 eggs. Extract of vanilla. Boil the milk with the sugar in it, break the macaroni in lengths not longer than an inch, put them into boiling milk and cook slowly with the steam shut in about half an hour; beat the eggs with the cream, add the flavoring to this and mix with the macaroni, bake in a buttered pudding dish until it sets. Ser\-e with a sauce made of a pint of Port w4ne, half a pound of cut figs, }{ tb. of sugar, a table- spoonful of butter, slightly thicken with corn starch and cook until it is clear, or if this is too expensive, serve with any other suitable sauce. PRACTrCA.L AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 175 1057— VERMICELLI PUDDING. Proceed exactly as for macaroni pud- ding, using vermicelli instead of maca- roni. 1058— GREEN CORN PUDDING. (Individual.) Make conical shaped cups of the lower part of green corn husks. This is done by cutting the .stem close and trimming the edges round with a pair of shears ; dip these in hot clarified butter and place them in muffin pans, and fill with a corn pudding made of 1% lbs. of green corn. 2 basting spoonfuls of melted butter. % teaspoonful of salt. Seasoning of white pepper. 3 eggs. I pint of milk. Shave the corn from the cob with a sharp knife, stir in the butter and season- ing,^then the eggs and milk beaten to- gether; fill the cups and bake fifteen to twenty minutes. The corn husks must not be burned or much discolored. 1059— BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. I quart of milk. ]4 lb. of butter. I teacupful of molasses. I lemon. 6 eggs. Make a mush of the milk and corn meal and let it cook slowly with the lid on about an hour and a half, and mix in the other ingredients, the juice of the lemon only, and bake twenty minutes. 1060— BAKED INDIAN FRUIT PUD- DING. 3 cups of milk. I teacup of corn meal. A heaping basting spoonful of finely minced suet. yi teacup of molasses. % teaspoonful of ground ginger, 3 eggs. % lb. of mixed seedless Sultana raisins and currants. Ground cinnamon. Make mush of the milk and corn meal, add all the other ingredients and bake in a moderate oven three-fourths of an hour. 1061— INDIVIDUAL ALMOND SOUFFLES. 8 ozs. sugar. % cup of water. A basting spoonful of butter. 8 ozs. of almonds. 6 eggs. I oz. of corn starch. A few drops of rose extract. 4 peach kernels. Blanch the almonds, pound them in the mortar until they are reduced to a paste, moisten with the extract of rose diluted in a tablespoonful of water to facilitate the making of the paste; boil the sugar and water a few minutes, throw in the butter then the almond paste mixed with the corn starch, add three yolks of eggs, stir and cook until it thickens, take it off the range, add the remaining raw yolks and beat thorough- ly; whip the whites firm, add them in lightly and bake in paper cases. See part V. for cases. 1062— CHOCOLATE CUvSTARD. (Individual.) I quart of new milk. 3 basting spoonfuls of sugar. I tablespoonful grated chocolate. 8 eggs. A tablespoonful of vanilla. Boil the sugar and grated chocolate with half of the milk, stir all the time until the chocolate is dissolved; separate the eggs so as to reserve six whites to make a meringe; beat the rest of the eggs in with the cold milk and pour this in the sauce pan with the chocolate, flavor, partly fill custard cups; place these in a steamer and steam fifteen minutes. Make a meringue of the six whites and granulated sugar, pile it on top of the hot custard, set these in the oven and bake straw color with the door open. 176 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 1063— CARAMEL CUSTARD. (Individual.) I quart of milk. I cupful of sugar. 9 eggs. A teaspoonful of almond extract. Take a third of the sugar to make the caramel, put this in a bright kettle with a teaspoonful of water, set it on the fire and when it looks like golden syrup pour in half of the milk and let it boil until it is all dissolved; reserve six whites of eggs to make a meringue; beat the rest into half of the milk, add the remaining sugar, flavor and mix in the caramel last; bake and proceed as directed for choco- late custard. 1064— PLAIN CUSTARD. I quart of milk. yi cup of sugar. 5 eggs. A tablespoonful of flavoring extract (vanilla or lemon. ) Beat the eggs and sugar together, pour in the milk, add the extract and bake in an earthen baking dish until just set in the middle, as it will lose its richness if allowed to bake too long. Excellent served with cold cream. 1065— PINEAPPLE CUSTARD. 1 quart of new milk. 8 ozs. of sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls of corn starch. 11 yolks of eggs. 12 ozs. of pineapple. A pinch of salt. Cut the'pineapple into small dice; if it is not very ripe and sweet cover it with sugar, let it stand a little while, then stew it until tender; boil the milk with the sugar in it, mix the starch with an additional teacup of milk, pour this in the boiling milk; beat the yolks, stir them in, then put in the pineapple, turn out into a pudding dish and bake. Use the II whites for angel cake. 1066— GRAPE CUSTARD. Make the pineapple custard prepara- tion, when ready to bake add four cups of white grapes picked and washed, bake as usual; ser\'e cold with whipped cream. 1067— PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE. I teacupful of brown sugar. As much of hot water. Yz teacup of butter. A tablespoonful of flour. Mix the flour and sugar together dry, pour the boiling water over and add the butter and stir briskly over the fire until it boils. 1068— SIMPLE SYRUP. I lb. of sugar. I cup of water. Let it come to a boil in a bright clean sauce pan, skim and strain; keep ready to use. 1069— PORT WINE SAUCE. I lb. of sugar. yi teacupful of water. I teacupful of port wine. 6 cloves. Yz a small lemon. A piece of mace. Melt the sugar in the water on the fire, put in the spices and lemon cut in pieces, the bitter seeds must be removed, simmer ten minutes and remove from the fire, add the wine and strain. Sauce of any kind containing wine or liquor should not be boiled after these are added, as it will quickly evaporate. 1070— RASPBERRY SAUCE. I lb. of sugar. I teacupful of raspberry juice. Yi teacupful of claret. A few drops of red coloring. Boil the sugar and water together, add the fruit juice and coloring, let come to a boil, skim and strain and add the claret. 107 1— HARD SAUCE. Yz lb. of pulverized sugar, % lb. of butter. A grating of nutmeg. Cream the butter and sugar until they are perfectly white and grate a little nut- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 177 meg on top; the butter must be soft enough so that it will mix with the sugar. 1072— BRANDY SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING. I lb of granulated sugar. 1 cup of water. 2 ozs. of fresh butter. A teaspoon ful of whole spice (mace, cloves, stick cinnamon, allspice. ) Boil together ten minutes and strain through a very fine strainer and add the juice of half a lemon, add a half cup of brandy and do not boil after the brandy is in, as it will evaporate quickly. 1073— TRANSPARENT SAUCE. Made as the preceding recipe without the brandy. 1074— SAUCE ARGENTEE. ^ lb. of pulverized sugar. X lb. of butter. A basting spoonful of hot water. A basting spoonful of brandy. Warm the butter in a sauce pan, put in the sugar and cream it as for cake, then set it on the range and beat vigorously, pour in the brandy and water a little at a time, and when it is hot it is ready to serve; it should not boil or get more than hot, as it will destroy its whiteness. 1075— LEMON SYRUP SAUCE. 1% lbs. of sugar. Coffee cupful of water. 2 lemons. Grate the rinds of the lemons and squeeze the juice without the bitter seeds, put in the water and sugar, boil up once and strain through a fine strainer. 1076— ORANGE SYRUP SAUCE. I lb. of sugar. 1 small lemon. 2 teacupfuls of water. I large orange. Proceed as directed for lemon syrup sauce. 1077— SABA YON SAUCE. I cup of sugar. 1 cup of light sherry. 10 yolk of eggs. Beat the yolks and sugar together in a deep sauce pan, set the sauce pan on the range and stir in the wine a little at a time, then whip the mixture to a thick foam, and it must not come to a boil until it is hot and slightly thickened. A table- spoonful of rum may be added if the sauce is to be served with plum pudding. Jt 1078— FRENCH CUSTARD SAUCE. 14. lb. of sugar. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. A teacupful of Madeira or sherry wine. A small half teaspoonf ul of ground cin- namon. Warm the butter and sugar together until they are white and creamy, add the cinnamon and eggs, set the mixture over the fire and keep stirring, pour in the wine a little at a time; whip vigorously until the sauce is frothy and thickened. This sauce should be made just before it is time to serve it. 1079— PLAIN CUSTARD. I pint of milk. 4 ozs. of sugar. 5 yolks of eggs. Vanilla flavoring. Boil the sugar with the milk in it, mix the yolks of eggs with a basting spoonful of milk, beat them in, stir briskly and when it begins to boil take off immedi- ately and strain. 1080— NEAPOLITAN SAUCE. yi lb. of sugar. A heaping tablespoonful of com starch, 1 cup of water. A cup of thick sweet cream. 2 basting spoonfuls of strawberry, or other red fruit syrup. A tablespoonful of mixed whole spices (cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg). Grated rinds of half a lemon and orange. A few drops each of vanilla, lemon, rose and almond extract. 173 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Boil the sugar, water and whole spices together a few minutes, add the starch and red fruit syrup, strain, put in the cream and flavoring extracts last; do not boil it after the cream is in. 1081— SAUCE ECARIyATE. 12 ozs. of powdered sugar. Yt, as much of butter. 1 cup of red fruit juice. Cream the butter and sugar, add the juice a little at a time as you would vine- gar to mayonnaise; keep in the refrige- rator until wanted. 1082— HOT CREAM SAUCE. 2 cups of cream. 3 basting spoonfuls of sugar. A tablespoon ful of butter. A heaping tablespoonful of corn starch. 1 nutmeg. Boil the cream with the nutmeg broken in it and the sugar; mix the starch with a little cold milk and stir it in; when cooked thick whip in the butter, and strain. 1083— ANGELICA SAUCE. 2 cups of sweet cream. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. I cup of Angelica wine. A few drops of vanilla extract. Partly whip the cream and mix in the wine, sugar and flavoring extract. 1084— SULTANA SAUCE. Make the Transparent Sauce as directed in No. 1073; clean and wash a teacupful of seedless Sultana raisins; when the sauce is ready add the raisins and stew half an hour or so. .^ 1085— ORDINARY WINE SAUCE. yi cup of sugar. A heaping tablespoonful of corn starch. A pint of water. Half a small lemon. A tablespoonful of butter. A few cloves. Yz cup of wine. Cut the lemon in pieces, boil it in the water; mix the sugar and starch together and stir them in when the water is boil- ing, boil five minutes, then stir in the butter, add the wine last, and strain. 1086— LEMON CREAM SAUCE. Yz lb. of sugar. A heaping tablespoonful of corn starch. A pint of water. A basting spoonful of fresh butter. The juice and rind of one lemon. 3 yolks of eggs. Mix the grated rind of lemon, starch and sugar together; let the water come to a boil and add these dry ingredients, then the lemon juice and butter, let it boil again and beat in the yolks; as soon as the sauce begins to thicken take it from the fire and strain. 1087— PINEAPPLE SAUCE. 1 lb. of sugar. 2 basting spoonfuls of pineapple juice or liquor from the cans. I teacupful of shredded pineapple. A teacupful of claret. Dissolve the sugar in the pineapple juice, let this come to a boil then strain, add the wine and shredded pineapple, keep hot in a double dish without boiling. If the sauce is desired a light pink color add a few drops of red coloring. 1088— CURACOA SAUCE. Ordinary Curacoa as bought of the wine merchants simply made hot is certainly the best, but as it is rather expensive. A good imitation is made with a pint of Simple Syrup in which is boiled the grated rinds of two oranges and a dozen of cloves, strained, add a cup of brandy and colored with caramel. (See No. 7.) 1089— MARASCHINO SAUCE. Make a pint of Simple Syrup as direct- ed in No. 1068, add to it two basting- spoonfuls of gin and flavor with extract of almond. This must be perfectly clear and colorless in imitation of the genuine maraschino. 1090— MAPLE SYRUP SAUCE. I pint of maple sjTup. A piece of butter the size of an ^^^. Put the maple syrup in a saucepan on the range, when it is hot stir in the but- ter; when this is all whipped in keep the sauce hot without boiling. Jellies^ Blanc Manges^ Charlottes^ Bavarian Cream* 1091— BLANC MANGE. I quart of milk. Yz lb. of sugar. 3 ozs. of corn starch. I tablespooiiful of melted butter. I pinch of salt. Flavoring extract. Boil the milk with the sugar in it, mix the starch with an extra cup of milk, stir it in when the milk is boiling, cook a min- ute then take off the fire, beat in the butter and flavoring, put the mixture in small cups previously wet with milk, when cold turn out from the cups and serve with whipped cream. 1092— CORN STARCH JELLY. I quart of water. % lb. of sugar. I small lemon. 3 tablespoonfuls of corn starch. Boil the water with the sugar in it, add the juice of the lemon, mix the corn starch with a half cup of water, stir it in the boiling water and sugar and let it boil about ten minutes, flavor with ex- tract of lemon, pour this in individual molds, when cold serve with whipped cream; this can be colored a delicate pink or yellow. 1093— TAPIOCA JELLY. I pint of strained strawberry juice. A large cupful of water. Yz lb. of sugar. A heaping basting spoonful of tapioca. Use crushed tapioca, steep it two hours with half the fruit juice, boil the rest of the juice with the sugar in it, boil the tapioca and let it cook slowly for fifteen minutes, then mix and put it in cups or individual moulds, and serve with French custard sauce. 1094— GELATINE BLANC MANGE. I quart of milk. Yz lb. of sugar. 1 oz. of granulated gelatine. Flavoring extract. 3 basting spoonfuls of cream. Boil the milk with the sugar and gela- tine in it and stir frequently until the gelatine is dissolved; it must not boil as it would curdle, strain into a bowl and when cool add the flavoring and the cup of cream, stir thoroughly and pour into individual molds; serve with whipped cream. 1095— NEAPOLITAN BLANC MANGE. Make the gelatine blanc mange as directed in No. 1094; divide in three portions, color the first portion pink and flavor with strawberry juice, flavor the second with vanilla and the third color with one yolk of e.^^ and flavor with a grated orange rind; divide the pink por- tion in as many cups as needed so as n®t to fill more than a third, put in ns much of the white and fill up with the yellow; when cold turn out and serve with whipped cream in a saucer. 1096— ALMOND BLANC MANGE. Yz lb. of sweet almonds. A basting spoonful of bitter almonds. 8 ozs. of sugar. I pint of water. I oz. of granulated gelatine. I teacupful of cream. Blanch the almonds and pound them in a mortar, add part of the sugar and a little water, put this paste into a bowl with the rest of the sugar and water and let stand half an hour; dissolve the gela- tine in warm water, add it to the almond i8o PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. preparation, then the cream, and strain through a napkin, squeeze dry and set the blanc mange in individual moulds; serve with plain sweetened cream. 1097— FLOATING ISLAND. I quart of vanilla custard. 10 whites of eggs. I basting spoonful of granulated sugar. Extract of lemon for flavoring. Whip the whites of eggs firm enough to hold an egg, add the sugar, then drop by spoonfuls in a pan of boiling milk and water, set in the oven, let them cook a few minutes with the door open, turn them over with a skimmer so they will not brown ; serve them cold in a dish of custard. They may be colored pink, flavored with strawberry and served with a white custard; this must remain but a short time in the oven, otherwise they will shrink and spoil. 1098— LEMON SNOW. I quart of water. I oz. of granulated gelatine. I lb. of sugar. Juice of four lemons. 4 whites of eggs. Squeeze the lemon juice in the sugar, add the water and gelatine, set the sauce pan over the fire and stir the contents until the gelatine is all dissolved; strain it into a bowl, set in ice water and when it is nearly cold beat with a wire egg beater until it is frothy and light, whip the whites to a stiff froth and beat them in, beat the mixture till it sets, it will then be white and very light; serve with a good custard sauce made of % lb. of sugar. I quart of milk. 6 yolks of eggs. Flavoring extract. 1099— MOUSSE DE .VRUIT. Any kind of good fruit jelly can be warmed just enough to dissolve, whipped as directed for snow pudding, the same proportions being used; serve with sweet- ened cream. HOC— APPLE SNOW. I lb. of pared and cored apples (only fine mellow cooking apples can be used. ) I cup of water. I lemon. %. lb. of sugar. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 2 whole eggs. 6 whites of eggs. Stew the apples with the sugar, water, lemon juice and butter, have a tight lid on the sauce pan and stew gently until they are tender, rub through a sieve, add two eggs to the pulp and cook the mixture about ten minutes or until it thickens; when cool flavor with cinna- mon and cloves, whip light and add the whites of eggs whipped firm, beat a few minutes longer; keep cold and serve with plain custard sauce. iioi— BAKED COCOANUT CUSTARD. I quart of milk. % lb. of sugar. I oz. of com starch. I tablespoonful of butter. 4 eggs. % lb. of desiccated cocoanut. Boil the milk and sugar together, mix the corn starch in the bowl with a little additional cold milk, add it to the boil- ing contents of the sauce pan, remove immediately from the fire, as it must not boil again; beat in the butter, then the eggs and half the cocoanut; pour the custard into a baking dish, sprinkle the remainder of the cocoanut over the top, dredge with powdered sugar and bake until it has acquired a nice straw color- serve cold with cream or plain custard. 1 102— PEACHES AND CREAM. Peel rich mellow peaches, slice them, spread a little pulverized sugar over them, ornament the edges with yellow and red peach slices, alternating with peach or lemon leaves; send to the table accom- panied with a dish of ice-cold sweetened whipped cream. 1 103— STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM. Pick and clean the strawberries care- fully, cover them with sugar, the quan- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. i8i tity to be used according to the acidity of the fruit; let remain in a cold place until •wanted; serve in the same way as peaches. Raspberries and small fruit are all served in a similar manner. 1 104— MARASCHINO BAVARIAN CREAM. 3 cups of milk, J cups of rich cream. % lb. of sugar. I oz. of granulated gelatine. yi cup of maraschino. Set the milk over the fire with the gela- tine in it, stir frequently until the gela- tine is all dissolved, but it must not boil; strain into a bowl, set into a pan of ice- water; when nearly cold whip the cream to a froth ; beat the mixture in the bowl in a like manner, mix the two and keep on beating until the mixture is white and set; the maraschino is added a little at a time while the last beating is going on. 1 105— BAVARIAN CREAM WITH FRUIT. Bavarian cream makes a delicious des- sert served with compote of pears, peaches, fresh picked strawberries, etc. The cooked fruit should naturally be ice- cold; it is served by the spoonful in the same saucer with the cream. 1 106— PLAIN BAVARIAN CREAM. 3 cup of milk. I teacupful of cream. ^ lb. of sugar. I oz. of granulated gelatine. 3 whites of eggs. Extract for flavoring. Set the milk with the sugar and gela- tine in it over the fire and stir until the gelatine is all dissolved; it must not come to the boiling point; strain in a bowl, placed in a pan of ice-water and when nearly cold whip it ten minutes, add the whites of eggs whipped firm, beat a few minutes longer; flavor while giving it the last beating. 1 107— STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM. 2 cups of rich cream. % lb. of sugar. 2 cups of strawberries. I >^ ozs. of granulated gelatine. Dissolve the gelatine in one cup of cream and one of milk, mash the straw- berries through a sieve and add half of the sugar; whip the cream and remaining sugar together, when it is to a froth mix in the gelatine then the strawberry pulp and set on ice in fancy molds. Another way is to line the mold with strawberries dipped in melted jelly just enough to make them stick to the mold, set this in ice-water and fill up with the cream mixture. 1108— CREME ITALIENNE. 1% pints of cream. % lb. of sugar. 8 yolks of eggs. I oz. of granulated gelatine. The rind of one orange. 3 basting spoonfuls of Madeira. Dissolve the gelatine in a little milk; boil one pint of the cream with the sugar and orange rind grated in it; beat the yolks slightly and pour them in the boil- ing mixture, take off the fire immediately and pour into a bowl placed in a pan of ice- water; when cool put in the gelatine and beat until light; whip the remainder of the cream to a froth'and stir it in, whip a few minutes longer and add the Ma- deira; whip until set. 1 109— BAKED BANANAS. Peel the bananas and cut them in halves lengthwise, lay them on a baking pan, strew over some sugar and small pieces of butter and bake them iti a moderate oven about thirty minutes; mix a basting spoonful of butter with two of plain syrup and baste the bananas with this mixture several times when they are baking, so they will come out glazed; serve immediately. mo— CRISPED APPLES. Pare and core some nice cooking apples, steep them three hours in thick l82 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKKRY. sugar and water syrup flavored with grated lemon rind, then take them out and roll in flour until they are well coated, fry them in hard lard; serve with apple dumpling sauce. II II— PINEAPPLE SALAD. I large ripe pineapple. 1 coffee cupful of powdered sugar. 3 basting spoonfuls of maraschino. Pare the pineapple and slice it thin, cover it with the sugar, let it stand an hour and a half, and when ready to serve pour over the maraschino. II 1 2— RICE CAKE. 4 cups of dry cooked rice. 2 basting spoonfuls of butter. 2 basting spoonfuls of sugar. 3 yolks of eggs. Vanilla extract. Mix all the ingredients together, spread it an inch deep in a buttered pan and bake in a quick oven, cut out in squares and serve with fruit jelly. II 13— RICE CAKE WITH COMPOTE OF FRUIT. Make the rice cake preparation as de- scribed in the preceding recipe; serve with compote of figs, apples, green-gages or any other. S 1 114— FRIARS OMELET. 1 pint of baked apple pulp. 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. A basting spoonful of butter. 2 basting spoonfuls of cream. 3 eggs. I pint of bread crumbs. Mash the apple, add the melted butter, sugar and a grating of nutmeg, beat the eggs and cream together, add them to the apple mixture, spread soft butter inside of a mould, press all the finely grated bread crumbs that can stick to it, pour in the mixture, cover the top with bread crumbs moistened with melted butter and bake until set, turn it out of the mould very carefully and serve with vanilla custard or whipped cream. 1 115— INDIVIDUAL CHARLOTTE. Make the friar omelet mixture, bake it in deep gem pans; when done frost over with meringue paste and bake to a straw color in the open oven. 1 1 16— HUNGARIAN CHARLOTTE. (Individual.) Slightly grease with olive oil as many custard cups as needed, spread lady fingers with fruit jelly (red currant pre- ferred), place two together and cut them lengthwise in three pieces; line the cus- tard cups with these, dipping the edges in iceing to make them stick together, the smooth sides touching the edges of the cup; make custard as directed for French custard, adding an ounce of gelatine soaked in half a teacup of cold water, flavor the custard with lemon or vanilla; when it is cold and nearly set pour it in the custard cups, put the cups in the refrigerator and when perfectly cold and solid turn them out; serve a spoonful of whipped cream on top of each charlotte. II 1 7— APPLE CHARLOTTE. 20 thin slices of parkerhouse rolls. I pint of clean pared apples. Yz lb. of sugar. 6 ozs. of butter. I egg. Grated nutmeg. Stew the apple with the sugar and a cup of water, with the steam shut in, when done mash with a spoon and add the grated nutmeg; dip the slices of rolls in the melted butter; line the bottom and sides of a bright pan and put in the mashed apple, put on top more slices of the buttered rolls slightly pressed into the apples; bake until they acquire a nice brown color, then brush over with egg and water, dredge with a basting spoon- ful of sugar and bake ten minutes more to glaze; serve with sweetened cream. 1 1 18— STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE. (Individual.) 12 ozs. of granulated sugar. 8 eggs. 3 basting spoonfuls of water. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 183 9 ozs. of flour. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, sugar and water vigorously together, whip the whites to a stiff froth, mix the flour and beaten yolks, then mix the whites lightly; spread this batter on a sheet of paper very thin and bake in a quick oven; it will bake in about five minutes; brush the pa- per with water and pull it off the cake. Cut the cake in pieces to fit the paper cases made as directed in Part V of this book so as to line them ; cut a round piece to fit the bottom and fill the charlottes with cream made as follows: I pint of strawberries. 3 cupfuls of thick sweet cream. I cup of sugar. y^ package of Knox's gelatine. Cover the fruit with the sugar, let it stand a little while and mash thoroughly and rub through a sieve; dissolve the gelatine in an additional cup of milk; when it is dissolved put the cream in a bowl, whip it to a froth, add the gelatine and place the dish in a pan of ice-water and continue whipping a few minutes, then add the strawberry pulp, whip two minutes longer and when it is almost ready to set fill the individual Charlottes; keep in the refrigerator until ready to serve. 1 1 19— CHOCOLATE CREAM. I quart of milk. y-2, lb. of sugar. 1 oz. of granulated gelatine. I basting spoonful of grated chocolate. 7 yolks of eggs. 4 whites. I cup of cream. Vanilla extract. Boil the milk with the sugar, choco- late and gelatine in it, stir vmtil all is dissolved; when the milk comes to a boil add the beaten yolks, boil a minute longer and strain into a bowl set in a pan of ice water, add the cup of cream and vanilla, beat up until it is almost set, then add the whites whipped firm and beat a few minutes longer, serve with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla. 1120— PISTACHIO CREAM. Make the plain Bavarian cream and add to it half a pound of almonds blanched and split, pounded to a paste in the mortar with a little water, rub through a sieve and mix with the Bava- rian mixture while being cooled, colored green and set in a fancy mould; serve with whipped cream all around. 1 121— ROSE BAVARIAN CREAM. Make the plain Bavarian cream, flavor it with extract of rose and color it a delicate pink. 1 1 22— CHARLOTTE RUSSE. Line a small round tin pan, if a long narrow mold made for the purpose is not procurable, with lady fingers all trimmed of equal length, dip the edges of the lady fingers in whites of eggs mixed with a little pulverized sugar and place them side by side over-lapping each other; then make sufficient Bavarian cream — any of the preceding recipes, but the plain va- nilla flavor preferred — and fill the mold just when the cream mixture begins to set. Set the charlotte in the refrigera- tor until it is firm and cold. When ready to serve place a large plate over the char- lotte, turn it up-side down, remove the dish it has set in, and place instead the dish in which the charlotte is to be serv^ed, turn it over so that the charlotte russe is placed as it was in the first dish, ornament the edges with small piping patterns of cake iceing, and the top with bright colored jelly. .^ 1 123— INDIVIDUAL CHARLOTTE RUSSE. Trim 3 or 4 thin lady fingers; line the inside of a custard cup; fill with any of the Bavarian creams; place them in a cold place to set solid; when ready to serve turn them out on a platter, put a spoonful of whipped cream on top. 1 124— CHARLOTTE PARISIENNE. Cut thin slices of sponge cake in squares and dip each one of them by means of a fork in iceing variously flavored and colored. Line plain drum shaped molds i84 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. with these various colored squares of sponge cake, dip the edges in melted candy to make them stick together, the glazed side against the sides 6f the mold, fill up with any of the Bavarian cream mixtures and when cold turn it out and send to the table as directed for large charlotte russe. 1 1 25— STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE. Line a fancy jelly mold with even sized strawberries dipped in melted jelly to make them stick to the mold; set the mold in ice-water to facilitate the opera- tion; when set solid fill with any of the Bavarian cream preparations, the straw- berry No. 1 107 preferred. Serve with strawberries all around in the dish. 1 126— JELLIES. All jellies are started in the same way with the plain jelly afterward flavored and colored in various ways; this we will call stock jelly to shorten and facilitate the following recipes. 1 127— STOCK JELLY. 2 quarts of water. 2}4 ozs. of gelatine. 1 lb. of sugar. 2 lemons. I tablespoonful of whole mixed spices. 3 whites of eggs and the shells if clean. Put the water in a kettle with all the ingredients, the lemon juice squeezed in without the seeds, the rind pared very thin and the whites of eggs beaten in a little cold water; set the kettle at the side of the range and let it slowly dis- solve and come to a boil, stir occasionally to prevent the gelatine from sticking to the bottom; be sure that the whites of the eggs are thoroughly cooked, other- wise the jelly will have a milky appear- ance. 1 1 28— CHAMPAGNE JELLY. Dissolve six ounces of sugar in half a cup of water and a package of Knox's gelatine in as much water, then beat over the fire until thoroughly dissolved. strain this dissolved gelatine into a pint of champage in a large bowl, set it on ice and when it is ready to set take out a teacupful and beat it with a wire egg beater two minutes, return this froth to the bowl, stir once or twice and let it solidify. This is one of the finest and costliest jellies. Can be set in a fancy mould. 1 1 29— WINE JELLY. Take a quart of jelly made as directed in No. 1 127, add halt a pint of wine and a little coloring if necessary, make it a deep red, when ready set in a cold place to solidify. 1130— RUSSIAN JELLY. Take a quart of jelly made as directed in No. 1 1 27, when it is ready to set add half a coffee cupful of strong tea and as much of wine and brandy mixed, and half a lemon sliced as thin as possible, pour in the mold and let it solidify. 1131— SODA WATER JELLY. Make two quarts of jelly as directed in No. 1 127, separate in four portions, flavor and color each in a different manner, one with vanilla colored with caramel, another with strawberry colored pink, another with lemon colored pale yellow, and one deep red flavored with wine; strain these again through a jelly bag; after they are colored and flavored partly fill thin stem glasses, set them in the refrigerator to cool and solidify; beat to a foam two cups of jelly with a wire egg beater until it is partly frothed and then add the whites of two eggs whipped firm and continue beating until the jelly begins to set, then fill the glasses, piling them up as high as possible with this white froth, and place them in the refrigerator to set; ser\-e very cold. 1132— ORANGE JELLY. Squeeze the juice of one orange in a bowl, shave the rind very thin ; boil half a pound of sugar with a half pint of PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 185 water and pour this syrup over the orange peel and juice; dissolve an ounce of granulated gelatine in a cup of water, let the syrup stand half an hour, strain it and make hot again and strain through a flannel over the dissolved gelatine. 1 133— VARIOUS FRUIT JELLIES. Can be made as directed for orange jelly, the proportion of sugar varying according to the acidity of the fruit; the quantity of jelly remaining the same, an ounce and a half to a quart of water. Cakes^ Cream Puf f s^ Meringues^ Cookies^ Etc* JJ34— ANGEL FOOD, II whites of eggs. lo ozs. of granulated sugar. 5 ozs. flour. 2 rounded teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Almond or vanilla flavoring. Mix the cream of tartar in the flour by sifting several times; whip the whites firm enough to bear an egg, put in the sugar, beat a few seconds more, add the flavoring and stir the flour in a little at a time without beating, when the flour is mixed fairly out of sight put the cake in a mold made for the purpose and bake it carefully in a slack oven, it will take from twenty -five to thirty minutes; the molds made purposely have a large tube in the center; the mold should never be greased. When the cake is done turn it upside down, the edge of the mold resting on pans or anything convenient so as to let the cold air circulate under, when cold it will probably come out of its own weight, if not, pass a thin bladed knife all around, and it will drop out. If the cake has a very even bake it may be used without glazing; otherwise it may be glazed with a pearl glaze as directed alsewhere. n35-SPONGE CAKE. I lb. of granulated sugar. 8 eggs. }i teacup of water. 12 ozs. flour. Separate the eggs, put the water and sugar in the yolks, beat fifteen minutes, it will then have the appearance of a thick foamy batter; whip the whites to a very stiff froth, mix the flour with the yolk mixture and stir the whites in last, bake in large or small moulds or in patty pans; may be glazed or used plain. n36-WHITE JELLY ROLL. A fine white roll ; a good cake for Char- lotte Russe lining. ID ozs. granulated sugar. 13 whites of eggs. 6 ozs. flour. 2 rounded teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Flavoring extract. Put the sugar and whites into a mixing bowl, beat them together with a wire egg whisk for twenty-five minutes; add the cream of tartar and flavoring extract, beat a few minutes longer, stir in the flour with a wooden spoon ; lay a sheet of manila paper on a large baking sheet, spread just thick enough to hide the pa- per; will bake in about eight minutes; the paper should not be greased, but when the cake is done turn it over on the table and brush the paper with ice-water, it can then be removed very easily; spread with jelly, orange or lemon honey. n37— SNOV CAKE. 14 ozs. granulated sugar. 12 ozs. fresh butter. 18 whites of eggs. ^ lb. of flour. 10 ozs. corn starch. ^ cup of milk. Flavoring extract. The juice of one small lemon. A basting spoonful of brandy. Cream the butter and sugar together; when creamed sufficiently it has the appearance of double or thick cream; add the whites three at a time, when these are all in add the starch and flour, next the lemon juice, flavoring extract and milk; beat all together five minutes and bake in angel cake moulds or ordi- nary iQoulds. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 187 n38— CHOCOLATE CAKE. Melt three ounces of ordinary bakers' chocolate; make the snow cake mixture, flavor it with an additional tablespoon- ful of vanilla, mix in the melted choco- late just before you put in the milk, n39— WINE CAKE. Make the snow cake mixture, but leave out the milk, which should be replaced by a teacupful of old Port wine; color the cake with a drop of red color- ing so the cake will have a pale pink color. I HO— DELICATE CAKE. 14 ozs. of granulated sugar. ^ lbs. of fresh butter. 13 whites of eggs. }4 lb. of flour. ^ lb. of corn starch. Juice of half a lemon. Tablespoonful of flavoring extract. ^ cup of milk. Tablespoonful of brandy. Cream the butter and sugar together; add the whites three at a time, then the starch and flour, next put in the lemon juice, milk, flavoring and brandy; beat all together five minutes and bake in the usual way. 1141— LADY CAKE. 14 ozs. sugar. ^ lb. butter. 13 whites of eggs. I lb. of flour. Tablespoonful of flavoring extract. )4 teacupful of milk. Juice of one lemon. If possible use some uncolored dairy butter. Warm the sugar and butter slightly and cream them ; add the whites of the eggs two at a time, after that the flour; beat the mixture thoroughly five minutes, after the flour is in mix in the lemon juice, flavoring extract and milk. 1142— ALMOND CAKE. Make the cake mixture No. 1141, add to it a pound of almonds blanched and split, flavor either with rose or almond extract; dust the almonds with flour and stir them in the cake mixture. n43-HICKORY NUT CAKE. j4 lb. sugar. }i lb. butter. 9 whites of eggs. J4 cupful of milk. I teaspoonful of baking powder. I lb. flour. 12 ounces hickory nuts. Cream the butter and sugar in the usual way and add the whites of eggs two at a time, then add the milk, flour and powder, mix thoroughly, beat hard five minutes, dust the nuts with flour and mix them in. n44-'WHITE CAKE. 1 lb. of sugar. }i lb. of butter. 10 whites of eggs. A cupful of milk. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. i}4 lbs. of flour. Cream the butter aud sugar, add the whites three at a time, then the milk, powder, flour and flavoring extract, bake in jelly cake pans; select some fruit or other filling and spread between the cakes, glaze the top with icing to match the filling. 1145- AUSTRIAN CAKE. Make the cake mixture No. 1141, add to it 2 ozs. of melted chocolate. yi lb. of figs chopped fine. % lb. almonds, blanched and split. X lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. Flavor the batter with a basting spoon- ful of brandy; dust the fruit plentifully with flour, and stir it in. JJ46-MARBLE CAKE. Make the lady cake mixture No. 1141; when the batter is ready take out a tea- cupful and color it light red; grease the cake mold, shake flour into it, then throw out the surplus flour, thus leaving i88 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. the mold thinly coated with flour; drop lumps of cake batter in the mold with a teaspoon, spread this very lightly with a knife dipped in the colored batter, taking care not to smooth the lumps; drop more spoonfuls of the cake mixture in the hollows and spread them as before and keep on until the mold is filled to within an inch of the top. Chocolate and white cake can be used in the same way. J H7— ORDINARY CAKE. 1 lb. of sugar. 5 eggs. ylt, lb. of butter. Yz pint of milk. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. xYz lbs. of flour. Beat the sugar and eggs together five minutes; melt the butter and beat it in, add the milk, then the powder thor- oughly mixed with the flour and beat five minutes longer, flavor to taste; bake in jelly cake or shallow pans. JJ48-WHITE JELLY CAKES. Made as the preceding recipe, using the whites of twelve eggs instead of the whole eggs; bake in jelly cake pans; spread jelly between the layers, or still better pastry cream, nut or fruit filling. 1149— POUND CAKE. 14 ozs. of sugar. % lb. of- butter. ID eggs. I lb. flour. Warm the butter and sugar together and work them with your hand until they are creamy and white, add the eggs two at a time and the flour in six por- tions; beat the batter very hard after all the ingredients are in. This mixture is used for a great variety of other cakes mentioned in the following directions. nSO— POUND FRUIT CAKE. Add to the pound cake mixture No. 1 149 one teaspoonful of mixed ground spices, cinnamon, mace, allspice and nutmeg; a half pound each of raisins, currants and citron, the juice and grated rind of one lemon ; mix the fruit together and dust it with plenty of flour, stir them in the batter and bake in molds lined with buttered paper; it will be baked in about one and a half hours. IJ5t-CITRON CAKE. Make the pound cake mixture and add to it half a pound of shredded citron and half a teaspoonful of lemon extract. U52— SMALL POUND CAKES. (Drop Cakes.) Mix the pound cake mixture No. 1149; add to it half a cup of flour mixed with a teaspoonful of baking powder; place spoonfuls on greased baking pans as evenly distributed as possible; bake in the oven from five to ten minutes; a slice of citron, currants or granulated sugar on top make the variety of sponge drops seen in the bakeries. 1153— POUND LAYER CAKE. -. Make the pound cake mixture No. 1 149, bake it on five jelly cake pans, spread each with any kind of cake icing, pile them on top of each other, trim the edges, frost the top and sides and deco- rate with English walnut meat or dates stoned and split in two. U54— LAFAYETTE CAKE. Make half the pouud cake mixture No. 1 149, bake it in two shallow pans of equal size; spread rich gooseberry jelly on one, put the other on top and ice it over, mark the icing before it is quite cool, and when the cake is cool cut it in squares; cut it with a sharp knife, giving it a down stroke to make a nice clear cut. 1155— DREAM CAKE. I lb. of sugar. >^ lb. of fresh butter. Whites of twelve eggs. 1 cup of milk. 2 rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 189 I rounded teaspoonful of cream of tar- tar. Flavoring extract. I lb. of flour. Sift the flour, powder and cream of tartar together five or six times, soften the butter and cream it with the sugar until it is almost white, stir in the milk gradually, alternating with a handful of flour to keep the mixture from separat- ing; whip the whites stiff enough to hold up an egg, then add the whites and remaining flour alternately until all is in; flavor and bake in ordinary molds or shallow pans. n56— QUEEN CAKE. Make the lady cake mixture No. 1141, omitting the milk, and add I lb. green candied citron. 8 ozs. blanched almonds. Yz lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. % cup of Madeira wine. Shred the citron very fine, dust with flour together with the almonds and raisins before mixing in. IJ57-JELLY ROLL. Yz lb. of sugar. 6 eggs, 8 ozs. flouf . 3 basting spoonfuls of luke-warm water. A piece of soda the size of a lima bean. Flavoring extract. Beat the eggs and sugar together until thick and foamy and it has increased to abovit three times its original volume; dissolve the soda in the water, add gradually while beating, stir in the flour gradually and bake on a sheet of buttered manila paper; cook it in a moderate oven; when done if the paper does not come off easily, brush it with cold water; spread jelly on the cake and roll up and brush over with sweetened water flavored with orange rind, then roll it in powdered sugar and set it in a warm place where the sugar coating will dry. n58— APPLE CAKE. Spread in a pan a sheet of coffee cake dough No. 853, cut the apples in thin slices and stick them in edgewise, let it rise a half or three-quarters of an hour; bake in a slack oven. U59— FRUIT CAKE No. \, 2 lbs. of sugar. 1 Yi lbs. of butter. A dozen of eggs. 2 lbs. of flour. Yz teacupful of wine. Yt teacupful of brandy. Yz oz. of grated nutmeg. 5 lbs. of raisins. 4 lbs. of currants. 2 lbs. of citron. I lb. of figs. Mix the sugar, butter, eggs and flour as directed for pound cake, add the liquor and nutmeg, the fruit must be well dusted with flour then mixed in the batter; line the molds with buttered paper, fill, then cover with another piece cut so it will fit inside of the mold, place the cake molds in the center of a sheet of wrapping pa- per, gather it on top, tie with twine and bake from two and a half to three hours according to the size of the cake. n6c^FRUlT CAKE No. 2. I lb. of sugar. xYz ft»s. of butter. 10 eggs. i^ lbs. of flour. I Yi K^s. of raisins. I Yz l^s. of currants. I R). of citron. Yz lb. of blanched almonds. ^ R). of figs. A basting spoonful of mixed ground spices. A teacupful of brandy. A teacupful of Madeira wine. Juice of one lemon. Grated rind of one orange. Mix the sugar, butter, eggs and flour as directed for pound cake, cut the figs, split the blanched almonds and mix with the rest of the fruit, dust plentifully with flour, add the brandy, wine, lemon juice and grated rinds to the batter, then the floured fruit; bake in molds lined with buttered paper as directed for fruit cake No. i; will bake in from one to three 190 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. hours according to the size of the cake. The brandy and wine can be omitted, and a cup of water strongly flavored with va- nilla used instead. 116 J— ROYAL ENGLISH FRUIT CAKE. 14 ozs. of sugar. 14 ozs. of butter. A dozen eggs. lyi lbs. of flour. I teacupful of black coffee. A teacupful of reboiled molasses. A teacupful of brandy. A tablespoonful of extract of orange. 3 ozs. of mixed ground cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and mace. 2% tt's. of seedless raisins. 2yi R)s. of currants. i^ R)s. of citron. }i lb. of blanched almonds. A pound of figs. Mix the butter, sugar, eggs and flour as directed for pound cake, then add the spices, coffee, molasses, brandy and ex- tract, dust well the fruit and almonds with flour and mix them in, the citron should be shredded very fine. Line the molds with buttered paper and bake as directed for fruit cake No. i; they will bake in two or three hours according to the size of the cake. This cake does not rise very much so the molds if wanted full can be almost filled with the mixture. Any of the three preceding fruit-cakes will not taste good while fresh, but will be at their best if kept from ten to fifteen days before using. Any of the other previous mentioned recipes may be used for decorated wedding cakes, etc., as their delicious nature and their solidity and compactness allow the artist to orna- ment and decorate to his heart's content. 1 162— FRUIT CAKE No. 4- I lb. of seedless raisins. 1 lb. of currants. % lb. of sugar. % lb. of butter. ^ lb. of molasses. 2 eggs. % pint of sour milk. A teaspoonful of soda. 1% lbs. of flour. Cream the butter and sugar, add the eggs, then the molasses and milk, beat all together thoroughly, mix the soda in the flour, put that in and beat again, dust the fruit with flour, mix it with the batter and bake in shallow pans lined with buttered paper. n 63— WATER SPONGE CAKE. 7 ozs. of granulated sugar. % cupful of water, 4 eggs. %• lb. of flour. A teaspoonful of baking powder. Separate the eggs, put the yolks in a mixing bowl with the sugar and water, beat about twenty minutes, until the mixture is thick and foamy; mix the powder with the flour and sift several times; whip the whites to a stiff froth; stir the flour in the bowl with the yolk mixture; when this is done add the whites. This mixture is good baked in small round cake molds or oblong pans joined together as muSin tins, or else baked in a large shallow pan; glaze over and cut in squares when cold. 1164— PISTACHIO CAKE. %, lb. of pistachio nuts blanched and minced. Yz lb. of sugar. % cup of water. A basting spoonful of butter. Whites of four eggs. Boil the sugar and water to thick syrup, throw in the butter, then the pistachio nuts, boil four minutes then stir in the whites of eggs, take it off when slightly thickened, color it green; let it cool and use this for filling between three sheets of snow cake; baked in jelly cake pans. 1165— TWIN ANGEL CAKE. 8 whites of eggs. I Y cups of granulated sugar. I cup of flour. A small teaspoonful of baking powder. A teaspoonful of flavoring extract. Beat the whites of Qgg to a stiff froth, add the sugar, beat a minute longer; stir the flour and baking powder thoroughly :k» J PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 191 together, and add the flavoring then the flour, stir lightly until the flour has dis- appeared, bake in angel cake mold; do not grease the tins. JJ66-TWIN GOLD CAKE. 1 cup of granulated sugar. A small half cup of butter. 8 yolks of eggs. yi cup of sweet milk. \%, cups of flour. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Cream the butter and sugar until very light and white, beat the yolks separately a few minutes and stir them in with the creamed butter and sugar, add the milk then the flour and baking powder, bake at once in a moderate oven. The advantage of making gold and twin angel cakes instead of the regular, is that the twin angel and gold cakes each take the exact number of yolks and whites, so that there is no waste of egg yolk. IJ67— JELLY CAKE. 2 eggs. I cup of sweet milk. 1 Yz cups of sugar. 3 cups ot flour. 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat the eggs and sugar until well blended, add the butter, then the milk, flour and baking powder; bake in jelly cake pans, and when cool spread currant or other jelly between, and icing on top. U68-BANANA CAKE. 1 Yz cups of sugar. %. cup of butter. 2 eggs. 1 cup of sweet milk. 2 cups of flour. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 3 bananas. Mix the flour and baking powder thoroughly; cream the sugar and butter, add the milk, then the eggs well beaten, and lastly the flour; bake in jelly cake pans. Spread the cakes with an icing made of sweet cream thickened with pow- dered sugar. Slice the bananas thin and spread a thick layer on the icing; pile the layers and finish by spreading with icing and sliced bananas. Enough sugar should be stirred into the cream so that it will not run when spread on the cake. ^ 1 169— WALNUT CAKE. I lb. of sugar. Yz lb. of butter. Yz pt. of sweet milk. I lb. of flour. 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. A teaspoonful of almond extract. Whites of 8 eggs. Cream the sugar and butter, add the milk gradually, stir in half of the flour and the almond extract; beat the eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the mixture, and lastly the remainder of the flour; bake in a large pan so that the cake will not be more than two inches thick; when done ice it and lay on top English wal- nut meats in regular rows two inches apart each way, and cut between making neat trimmed squares. Half of the cake might be glazed white and the other pink, thus making a variety for the cake basket. 1 170— JELLY ROLL No. 2. 7 ozs. granulated sugar. 6 eggs. 6 ozs. flour. A basting spoonful of brandy. A teaspoonful of flavoring extract. Beat the sugar and eggs together in a cool place about twenty-five minutes; stir in the flour with a spoon, and last the extract and brandy; stir the flour in just enough to get it out of sight. Grease a baking sheet or shallow pan, spread the batter over as thin as possible, bake in a hot oven five minutes; detach the sides by running a knife down the sides of the pan, turn it upside down upon a wooden table, spread with currant jelly and roll the cake up, then roll it in a sheet of manila paper until wanted. 192 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 1171— GENOESE CAKE. 6 ozs. sugar. 6 ozs. butter. 7 eggs. lo ozs. flour. 2 basting spoonfuls of milk. A teaspoonful of baking powder. A teaspoonful of vanilla. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the eggs two at a time, put in the milk, flour and powder, beat vigorously for a few minutes, and bake in any kind of mold or jelly cake pans. A good, serviceable cake easily frosted and cheap. Jit n72— NEAPOLITAN CAKE. Make the ordinary cake mixture as directed in No. 1147, divide it into four parts, leave one part plain, color the others pink, yellow and chocolate; bake in thin sheets so that after the baking they will not be more than an inch thick; when done pile tne four layers one on top the other, spreading jelly between; ice over with vanilla icing, ornament with pink stripes. J 173— SPICE CAKES. }4 lb. of molasses. 3 ozs. of sugar. •4: lb. of butter. I cup of milk. 3 eggs. j4 oz. of ginger. I teaspoonful of baking powder. I lb. of flour. Melt the butter and warm the milk, pour in the molasses and sugar, mix thoroughly, then add the eggs, ginger, baking powder and flour, give the mix- ture a good beating and bake in a shal- low pan. n74— SPONGE CAKE. 14 ozs. of sugar. 12 eggs. ^ lb. of flour. Put the eggs and sugar together in a mixing bowl, set this in a pan of ice water, beat the mixture vigorously for half a hour, then stir in the flour lightly and bake in shallow pans. Also good for small cakes, lady fingers, jelly rolls and small Italian cakes described else- where. 1 1 75— APPLE CREAM CAKE. I lb. of flour. 12 ozs. of butter. 2>^ cups of water. Rub the butter and flour together as you would for baking powder biscuits; make a hollow in the middle of the flour, pour in the water and mix to a soft dough, roll out on the table, cut out the thickness of biscuits and bake in a shallow pan ; when done split open and spread apple cream between and pow- dered sugar on top. Ji 1 1 76— MACAROON CAKE. j4 lb. of sugar. )4 lb. of butter. 3 eggs. l4 teacupful of milk. }4 teaspoonful of baking powder. I lb. of flour. Cream the butter and sugar, add the eggs one at a time, then the milk, most of the flour with the baking powder thoroughly mixed in; knead the dough on the table, using the rest of the flour until it can be rolled out as thin as for cookies, cut the size of the baking pan and bake a light color; before it is just done take it out and place cords of maca- roon paste with a forcing sack and tube, diagonally across to make diamond shaped hollows, using a quarter of an inch tube; bake in a very slack oven until the top is light brown; when it is perfectly cold place jelly with a tea- spoon in the hollows between the cords of macaroon paste. Make the macaroon paste out of 6 ozs. of grated cocoanut. ^4- lb. of sugar. The white of one egg. Orange extract. Beat the white of the egg and sugar together untiljyou have a stiff icing, then add the cocoanut and extract. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 193 1 1 77— SUNSHINE CAKE, , 10 ozs. of sugar. Yz lb. of flour. I teaspoonful of baking powder. I cupful of yolks of eggs. I cupful of whites of eggs. Cream the yolks and sugar, beat the whites to a stiff froth and mix them with the yolk mixture, put in the flour and powder thorough!)- mixed together; bake in ungreased molds as directed for angel cake. 1 1 78— TIGER CAKE. Yz lb. of sugar. Yz lb. of butter. 1 lb. of flour, I oz. of baking powder. 4 eggs. A basting spoonful of sugar. Rub the butter and sugar together, add the yolks two at a time, add the milk then the whites whipped to a stiff froth; color one-quarter part of the batter with chocolate, flavor with vanilla; put a thin layer of the white batter in the bottom of a cake mold, then place some of the chocolate mixture on top in half teaspoonfuls; put the balance of the white batter on top and bake as directed for pound cake. 1 1 79— ANISEED CAKE. Yz lb. of flour. X lb. of- butter. X lb. of sugar. I or 2 eggs. A teaspoonful of aniseeds. Rub the butter into the flour; beat the eggs with the sugar until partly dis- solved, put in the teaspoonful of ani- seeds and mix altogether, knead lightly and roll out the dough about an inch thick, put it in greased baking pans, dredge a little sugar on top and bake in a brisk oven. II 80— WHITE RAISIN CAKE. Make the lady cake mixture No. 1141, add a pound of Sultana raisins dusted with flour, flavor with extract of nut- meg; bake in shallow molds. 1 181— MARION CAKE. Roll out some puff paste a quarter of an inch thick, strew over the top a mix- ture of currants, spices, sugar or any kind of minced dried fruit that may be handy; cover with another layer of paste of the same thickness, press the edges together and bake in a moderate- oven; when done and cold, spread witk vanilla icing and cut in small squares. 1 1 82— BAKERS' LADY FINGERS. Yz lb. of sugar. Y2. lb. of flour. 3 eggs. Yt teaspoonful of baking powder. Beat the eggs with the sugar about half an hour; mix the baking powder with the flour and stir it in lightly. This is not a delicate lady finger like other recipes given in this book, but it is very serviceable to make individual charlotte russe, etc. 1 1 83— LADY FINGERS. 8 ozs. powdered sugar. Y cupful of water. 9 eggs. 10 ozs. flour. Separate the eggs; put the sugar and water in a bright saucepan over the fire, add the yolks and beat briskly until the mixture is warm, but not hot, and set the saucepan in a bowl of ice-water and con- tinue beating twenty minutes more, until the mixture is thickish and has a a foamy appearance, and its volume has increased twice its original quantity; whip the whites to a stiff froth that will hold up an egg, mix this lightly with the contents of the saucepan without beating, then stir in the flour also very lightly with a spoon, just enough to hide it from sight. To form the lady fingers put some of the batter in a forcing sack having a tube a little less than a half inch in diam- eter; force it out in finger lengths on sheets of blank paper (not greased) leav- ing an inch space between them and draw lines four inches apart across the paper with a pencil so as to have them of equal lengths; sift powdered sugar all over 194 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. them; then take hold of the corner of the sheet of paper, raise briskly and shake off the surplus sugar; lav the sheet on a baking sheet and bake in a moderate oven about ten minutes, they should not be more than straw color; brush the paper over with a camel's hair brush dipped in water, the cakes will then come off easily; place two together, the moisture causing them to adhere. 1 184— SMALL SPONGE DROPS. Make the lady finger mixture as di- rected above, drop small round shapes on paper size according to fancy, and bake in the oven as you would lady fingers. 1 185— JELLY DROPS. Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe; spread with lemon, honey or orange jelly and stick two together. iiSsa— WHITE JELLY DROPS. Make the white jelly roll mixture; drop batter the size of a silver dollar on a sheet of manila paper with a forcing sack and tube, sift powdered sugar over them, let stand two or three minutes, then shake off the surplus sugar as directed for lady fingers; when cold spread with rich wine jelly, stick two together and keep in the refrig- erator until time to serve. n86— GLAZED JELLY DROPS. Make the sponge drops as directed else- where; frost them in different colors, spread the bottoms with orange or lemon honey, and stick two of different colors together. 1187— COCOANUT DROPS. Make the lady cake mixture, add to it some desiccated cocoanut; drop small portions of the batter in round shapes, dredge powdered sugar over, shake off the surplus sugar and bake as directed for lady fingers. 1188-ALMOND DROPS. Make the sponge drops as directed in recipe No. 1184; and have ready some finely minced almonds and dredge over the tops of the cakes before baking. 1 189— SMALL SAVOY CAKES. Make the lady cake mixture No. 1141, flavor with orange flower water or vanilla extract; bake in patty pans previously buttered, shake powdered sugar in them, fill two-thirds full with the cake mixture, sift powdered sugar on top and bake a light color. 1 190— WHITE MOUNTAIN GEMS. Make thin sponge drops about the size of a silver dollar, place spots of meringue all around the edges to form a ring or border, make them about the size of a gooseberry and high pointed, this is done with a forcing bag and tube drawing the tube up as the paste leaves it; bake in a very slack oven, with the door open if necessarj', only a light straw color; when cold fill the center with bright wine col- ored jelly almost cold. 1191-SPRING LAKE GEMS. Make macaroon paste by recipe given for macaroons, drop small portions on a pan and flatten them out a little with a spoon ; when they are soft baked put them in small muffin or gem pans and press them into shapes in such a manner as to form a small basket; ornament the edges with meringue paste as described in the preceding recipe, bake about two min- utes, and when perfectly cold fill these with chopped jelly of different flavors and colors. 1 192— ALMOND ICEBERGS. Blanch a half pound of almonds and brown them in the oven; when cold add them to a stiff meringue mixture; lay out with a spoon in large high drops, dust pulverized sugar on top and bake in a slack oven. PKACTICAI. AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 195 1 193— SNOW BALLS. Yz lb. of pulverized sugar. 12 ozs. of flour. I teaspoonful of cream of tartar. I pint of whites of eggs. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, mix in the sugar, flour and cream of tartar; place the mixture like drop cakes on paper and bake in a moderate oven; when done stick two together with white icing; dip in vanilla icing, then roll them in desiccated cocoanut. 1 194— CHOCOLATE BAISEES. Stir a pound of sugar, two ounces of grated chocolate and three whites of eggs on the range until the chocolate is dissolved and perfectly incorporated, then lay this out like lady fingers on pans dusted with flour; let them dry two and a half to three hours, and bake in a slack oven. When properly made they will rise an inch thick. 1195— OTHELLOS. Make a sponge cake mixture as directed in No. 1 174, lay out on a paper high drops the size of a walnut; bake in a brisk oven; when baked and cooled cut a hole in the bottom of each cake and fill them with vanilla cream; stick two to- gether, dip these in chocolate icing by means of a fork, decorate with dots of white icing, or may be iced with pink strawberry icing decorated in a similar manner. 1196-CREAM DROPS. Make small drop cakes the size of a silver dollar with the butter sponge mix- ture as directed in No. 1147, dredge pul- verized sugar on top and bake a light color; spread with any of the pastry creams described elsewhere and place two together. 1 197— GLAZED SPONGE DROPS. Make small sponge drops as directed in recipe No. 1196; make three colors and flavor of boiled icing; dip the bot- tom of each cake in one of the icings and set it on a sheet of paper to dry. 1 198— CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS. Make the ordinary butter sponge mix- ture, drop spoonfuls on a greased baking pan a little larger than usual; when done, hollow out the bottoms, fill up with whipped cream, place together and dip them in chocolate icing and set on sheets of greased paper to dry. ii99-'WINE RUSK. 14 ozs. granulated sugar. 12 eggs. Yz lb. of almonds. Yz lb. of graham flour. I teaspoonful of extract of rose. Do not blanch the almonds, but crush them with a rolling pin or in a mortar, then mix with the graham flour. Beat the sugar and eggs together in a cool place for thirty-five minutes; when light and thick add the flavoring extract and the mixture of flour and almonds; bake in narrow molds; when done slice and brown the slices lightl}' in a brisk oven. 1200— ANISEED RUSK. Yz lb. of granulated sugar. 8 eggs. X lb. of almonds. 6 ozs. of flour. A teaspoonful of aniseeds. Mince the almonds very fine, mix them and the aniseeds with the dry flour; beat the sugar and eggs until they are a thick foam, then stir in the flour and almond mixture; proceed as directed for wine rusk No. 1199. 1201— ALMOND PASTE FOR MACAROONS. For almond ice, almond ice cream, almond macaroons, and in fact every- thing for which almond can be used. Prepared almond paste makes a better article than the crushed almonds. When the almond paste is used shave it off the lump very thinly; mix the shaving with granulated sugar and roll together on the table until the paste is thoroughly mixed with the sugar, it is then ready to use instead of almonds. 196 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 1202— COCOANUT MACARCX)NS. Make the meringue paste as directed for Cream Meringue No. 3, and add to it when finished four ounces of desiccated cocoanut; drop pieces the size of a walnut on a greased baking pan and bake in a moderate oven; these should be baked with great care, and remain on the pan until cold. 1203— ORDINARY MACAROONS. 6 ozs. of almonds, 4 ozs. of granulated sugar. 2 ozs. of flour. 2 eggs. A little salt. Crush the almonds without taking off the skins, mix them with the sugar and flour in a bowl, drop the eggs in the middle and mix the whole into a stiff dough; place this in portions the size of hazelnuts on greased baking pans, bake in a slack oven only a light brown. 1 204- ALMOND RINGS. Make the cocoanut macaroon mixture, using minced blanched almonds instead of cocoanut; put a small tube, about a quar- ter of an inch, in the forcing sack and press out rings on baking pans; bake in a very slack oven; they will slip easily from the pan when cold. 1205— KISSES IN GENERAL. A variety of macaroons, kisses and meringues can be made by mixing in the meringue paste macaroons, almonds, pistachio nuts, etc., or can be baked in different shapes, variously colored and flavored; the foundation is always the same; taste and fancy will create an end- less variety. 1206— KISSES. yi lb. of granulated sugar. 4 whites of eggs. Flavoring extract. "Whip the whites until they are firm enough to bear an egg; add the sugar and flavoring and beat a moment longer; grease the baking pan, then wipe it clean; attach a star pointed tube to the forcing sack and press out portions the size of large walnuts, leaving a two inch space between each ; bake in a slack oven about twelve minutes; they must not be more than a light straw color. If baked proper- ly they will swell partially hollow and slip off the pan easily when cold. 1207— ALMOND MERINGUE PUFFS. Make the meringue paste as described for Cream Meringue No. 3; drop portions the size of hazelnuts on a baking pan greased and wiped dry; stick six halves of blanched almonds in each one in regu- lar order, and bake carefully as directed in the preceding recipes. 1208- -MERINGUE PASTE. There is a variety of meringue paste, such as lemon and other pies, and again those which almost all sugar as in kisses, etc., but it is always whites of eggs and sugar, the proportions making the differ- ent varieties. 1209— CREAM MERINGUES. (Kisses) % lb. of powdered sugar. 5 whites of eggs. A teaspoon ful of flavoring extract.. All the ingredients and utensils must be as cold as possible. Whip the whites in a deep bowl with an e^gg beater made of ware, the description of which you will see on one of the engravings in part two of this book. When the eggs are beaten so that they will not fall when the bowl is turned up-side-down add the sugar and flavoring all at once, stir just enough to mix it well. Have ready strips of manila. paper about two inches wide, and pieces of hard wood to bake them on, no pine or any wood emitting a strong odor should be used; place spoonfuls of the mixture on the strips of paper about two inches apart, smooth with a knife, sift powdered sugar over them, shake off the surplus as in making lady fingers; place the strips on the boards and bake in a very slack oven with the door open ; they should be done in about thirty minutes;. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 197 they can be lifted off the paper when cold. The board will prevent a crust forming in the bottom, thus leaving the soft inside to be scooped out and filled with whipped cream. Sweeten and flavor, place two together joined at the bottom with melted candy, or joined two together side by side with chopped jelly piled in them. They can also be served singly, filled with bright chopped jellies of different colors and flavor, or with ice cream. It is better to use a force sack tube, the tube being about half an inch in diameter, as shapes of even size can be made in this manner. See description of forcing bag and tube in one of the engravings in part five. 1 2 ID— CREAM MERINGUE No. 2 Beat ten whites of eggs until they hegin to fly from the whip, add one ounce of pulverized sugar, beat again until it is stiff. While you are engaged in doing this, boil twelve ounces of sugar with half its quantity of water to 244° Fahrenheit; add this boiling syrup to the eggs in a long, gentle stream; this must be poured in by one person while the other continues beating; when this is done lay out immediately in large drops on a board covered with wet paper, bake at about 200° Fahrenheit (a cool oven); when done scoop the inside with a. teaspoon, dr>- a little while longer in the oven; when cold proceed as directed in No. 1209. 1211— CREAM MERINGUE No. 3. yi. lb. of granulated sugar. 4 whites of eggs. Flavoring extract. A pinch of sugar of milk baking pow- der. Put half the whites in a bowl, add all the sugar and beat together about fif- teen minutes, it will then be white and firm like cake icing; add the other eggs one at a time and beat a few min- utes between, then put in the powder and flavoring; the time of beating all together is about a half hour and the essential point is to beat the mixture after the ad- dition of each white; so it will draw up in peaks, after the beater is lifted from it. To facilitate the operation the utensils should be very cold and the beating done in a cold place. This kind of meringue can be dropped on baking pans slightly greased, instead of paper as the preceding recipe; do not sift any powdered sugar on this kind of meringue; bake in a slack oven until they are a straw color and dry. They will slip easily from the pan when cold. Cut off the bottom crust and scoop out the inside and fill as directed in previous recipe. Jit 1212— CHOCOLATE MERINGUE. yi lb. of granulated sugar. 3 whites of eggs. 1 oz. of grated chocolate. 2 drops of acetic acid. A teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Proceed as directed in recipes for cream meringue, and when it is finished mix in the grated chocolate thoroughly. Drop portions with a sack and tube on greased baking pans and bake at a very moderate heat. This meringue is of the choicest kind; they rise nearly hollow and can be slipped easily from the pan when cold. 1213— MERINGUE A LA ROSE. Make a meringue paste as directed in any of the preceding recipes, color it pink and flavor with a few drops of rose extract; drop portions the size of hazel- nuts with a sack and tube on a pan but- tered then wiped, bake this in a slack oven without giving them any color. They have a very fragile appearance and will prove a favorite for the cake basket. Jft 1214— ALMOND MERINGUE. Make and bake a thin sheet of butter sponge cake, then make the almond cream as follows: 3 cups of milk. A basting spoonful of sugar. lyi ozs. of corn starch. I teacupful of almonds. A basting spoonful of butter. 4 whites of eggs. Rose flavoring. 198 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY A pinch of salt. Blanch the almonds and pound them to a coarse paste; mix the starch and sugar together dry, let the milk come to a boil then stir in the mixed starch and sugar, take it off the fire immediately, add the other ingredients, the whites of eggs not beaten; beat the mixture vigor- ously, adding the almonds and extract of rose last; spread this cream on the sheet of cake and bake in a slack oven about fifteen minutes; when it is set make a meringiie paste of whites of eggs and su- gar as directed for lemon pies, flavor with extract of rose and color pink, spread it on top of the almond cream and bake in a slack oven; serve with a sauce made of one part of port wine and three of lemon syrup. 1215— CHOCOLATE MERINGUE. Bake a sheet of cake as directed in the preceding recipe; spread over it a choco- late cream made of 3 cups of milk. A basting spoonful of sugar. A basting spoonful of grated chocolate. 2 ozs. of corn starch. 4 yolks of eggs. Vanilla extract. Make it the same as directed in the preceding recipe, finishing off with a white meringue instead of pink, flavor with vanilla. These meringues should be baked in the pan the cake is baked in, as otherwise if the cake is transferred to another dish and the cream is poured over, it is liable to get in between the sides of the pan and cake and instead of remaining on top the cake will float in the mixture. 1216-FLORENTINE MERINGUES. Cover a small square baking dish with a sheet of puff paste rolled out thin, bake in the oven, and spread over it strawberry- fruit jelly or conserve; replace in the open oven, and whip the whites of eight eggs, or more according to the size of the baking pan, whip these firm and spread a thick coat over the hot preserves, sift granulated sugar over, then some minced almonds and bake in a very slack oven, with the door open if necessary, about ten minutes; cut in squares when cold. 1217— STRAWBERRY MERINGUE. Yz lb. of sugar. 5 eggs. ]i lb. of butter. 3 basting spoonfuls of milk. li lb. of flour. I heaping teaspoonful of baking pow- der. Beat the sugar and eggs together five minutes, add the melted butter, the milk, and the flour and powder thoroughly mixed; spread on jelly cake pans as thin as possible; when done cover the top of the cake w-ith raw strawberries, put it back in the oven 5 minutes, and spread a thick covering of the meringue paste as directed in No. 1214; set the cake in the oven just long enough to color the top a little; cut in oblong pieces and serve. 1 21 S— BLACKBERRY MERINGUE. Made as directed in No. 121 7 for straw- berry meringue. 1219— PEACH MERINGUE. Pare and cut the peaches in pieces the size of strawberries, then make as directed in No. 1 2 17 for strawberry meringue. 1220— PINEAPPLE MERINGUE. 1 pint of grated pineapple. 2 basting spoonfuls of old port wnne. A small teacup of sug r. A heaping tablespoonful of corn starch. A basting spoonful of butter. The rind of half a lemon. 4 yolks of eggs. Stew the grated pineapple and wine with half of the sugar; when it is partly thickened mix the starch with the rest of the sugar and stir it in; then add the butter, flavoring, and beaten yolks of eggs last; bake this cream on a sheet of white cake instead of the butter sponge as described in other recipes; when set spread with meringue paste, sifting sugar on top before baking; bake in a slack oven until it is a straw color; serve with cream. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 199. 1221— GENOESE MERINGUE. Cut a thin sheet of sponge cake in pieces 1% inches wide and 4 inches long; make meringue dots all around the edge with a star pointed tube, dust sugar over the tops and brown lightly in the oven ; when cold fill the center with fruit jellies, jams or creams. 1222— BOSTON CREAM PUFFS. yi. pint of water. X lb. of butter. % lb. of flour. 5 eggs. Bring the water to a boil with the butter in it, put the flour in all at once and stir over the fire until it becomes a stiff smooth paste, this will take about five or six minutes; take it off, let it cool a few minutes and beat in the eggs one at a time. These puffs will not rise if the eggs are beaten in after it is cold. Drop small teaspoonfuls of the paste on slightly greased baking sheets, allow two inches of space between them and bake about twenty-five minutes. These are to be filled either with whipped cream or pastry cream. There is an instrument made purposely to fill these, but they can be filled with a forcing bag or small tube, or again by cutting a slit in the side and filling with a teaspoon. The more the paste is beaten against the side of the pan after the eggs are added the more it will rise. When perfect they are smooth and rise in the shape of an inverted cup; the paste must be just soft enough to almost run, and the addi- tion of one more egg may be required for this. Make the quantity of butter light and that of the flour strong. The oven door should not be open for at least fifteen minutes after they are put in, and then just opened a little to look in to make sure of the oven. 1223— CORN STARCH CREAM PUFFS. These are finer than the preceding recipe and are specially suitable for vari- ous kinds of eclairs. yi pint of milk. 3 ozs. of butter. % lb. of corn starch. 5 eggs. Boil half of the milk with the butter in it, mix the corn starch with the other half; when the contents of the sauce pan are boiling put in the starch and cook to a smooth paste, stirring con- stantly; add the eggs as described for the preceding recipe; drop portions no larger than walnuts on greased baking pans, bake in a moderate oven about twenty-five minutes. The quantity of this recipe will make two dozen of puffs. 1224— TRANSPARENT PUFFS. % pint of water. A tablespoonful of butter. 3 ozs. of corn starch. 2 whole eggs. 3 whites of eggs. Proceed as directed for Boston cream puffs. 1225— COCOANUT ECLAIRS. Make any of the preceding cream puff pastes; lay it out in finger lengths with a forcing bag and tube half an inch in diameter on greased baking sheets; bake them crisper than directed for cream puffs; when they are cold dip them in, thick sugar syrup, flavored with a grating of lemon rind, then in grated cocoanut mixed with its equal quantity of granu- lated sugar; roll so that there are no bare spots; when this is done dry them in a warm place. 1226— ECLAIRS AUX AM ANDES. Make eclairs as directed in the preced- ing recipe, instead of grated cocoanut use chopped almonds. 1227— FRUIT ECLAIRS. % pint of water. 3 ozs of butter. A tablespoonful of sugar. 5 ozs. of flour. 4 small eggs or three large. A teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla ex- tract. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Boil the water, sugar and butter, stir in the flour all at once, cook it to a smooth paste; then add the eggs as directed for cream puffs, lay these in fancy shapes with a forcing bag and tube in crescent, oblong or finger shapes on a greased baking pan. Brush with beaten ^gg and dredge pulverized sugar over them before baking, fill these with fruit jelly, minced candied fruit mixed with an equal quantity of wine jelly, or any other fruit filline suitable to taste. 1228— FRUIT PUFFS. Make the Spanish puff paste; rig a forcing sack with a X inch tube and form rings the size of the top of a teacup on greased tins cut just large enough to hold the rings of paste; when the lard is hot dip the tins in it up-side-down and the rings of p^ ozs. corn starch (3 tablespoonfuls). 5 whites of eggs. Piece of butter the size of a walnut. Extract. Put the sugar and milk in a bright kettle; when this boils stir in the starch, mixed in a half cup of cold milk, remove from the fire, beat in the butter; flavor, strain and freeze. When almost finished add the whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and beat vigorously with a paddle until finished. 1279— HICKORY NUT ICE CREAM, Made as directed at No. 1273 for pecan ice cream, hickory nuts being used in- stead of pecan nuts. 1280— ALMOND BISQUE OR ICE CREAM. 8 ozs. of sugar. 8 ozs. almonds, a few bitter almonds mixed in. Blanch the almonds, split them and place them in a slack oven until they have acquired a nice straw color. Put the sugar in a bright kettle with a spoon- ful of water, and stir gently; when it has the color of light syrup, stir in the almonds and pour the mixture on a light- ly greased plate; when cold grind or pound the candy and put it on the fire in a quart of new milk. When this boils, add the yolks of 8 eggs previously well beaten, strain when cool, add a cup of rich cream, freeze. PRACTlCAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 213 J281— CURACOA ICE CREAM. 1 teacupful of curacoa. 2 quarts of cream (see No. 1265). Sufficient caramel to give a light straw color. J280— MARASCHINO ICE CREAM. 1 teacupful of Maraschino. 2 qts. of cream. (See No. 1265). 1283— PLUM ICE CREAM. Made as directed for pineapple ice cream. Use one pint of good rich flavored plums. i284-VIOLET ICE CREAM. Make as directed for vanilla ice cream. Flavor with extract of violet, and color a delicate l.'ivender with violet color paste. (See violet mousse). J285— BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM. 2 slices of brown bread. Yz cup of of curacoa or orange syrup. 2 quarts of cream. (See No. 1265J. Dry the brown bread in the oven; crush and sift it, then mix with the curacoa; pour in the cream; beat with a wii'e egg beater until thoroughly mixed; strain; freeze in the usual manner. 1286— FROZEN FRUITS. Apples, oranges, peaches and pears must be stewed previous to being frozen. They are very fine in combination with plain creams or frozen custards, such as rice and tapioca. The same proportions should be observed in preparing either of the fruits mentioned. Pare and cut the fruit in thick slices, or if orange, divide i 1 quarters. For 24 oz. of prepared fruit use 15 oz. of sugar. I y^ quarts of water. I large lemon. Make a boiling syrup of one pint of water and the sugar; then put in the fruit and the sliced lemon; put on a tight cover aud cook very gently until done. Take out the slices of friiit, lay them on a platter in a cold place — do not stir during the cooking or you would break the fruit— add the rest of the water to the syrup, strain in the freezer; when frozen add the fruit and finish with the paddle, but stir gently. <^ 1287— SHREDDED WHEAT ICE CREAM. A delicious and healthful novelty can be produced by the u.se of crushed shred- ed whole wheat biscuit in any of the ice cream preparations given elsewhere, which do not contain fruit pulp, nuts, etc., but those such as vanilla, chocolate, lemon, coffee, marachino, curacoa, etc. These biscuits, so easily digested and so nutritive, will be found an agreeable surprise in combination with any of the plain creams. To every quart of cream add two biscuits previously crushed with the rolling pin. Freeze in the usual manner. I288-CREME FLEUR D'ORANGE. ( Orange Flower Ice Cream ) . I qt. of cream. I qt. of custard. 8 ozs. of sugar. Flavor with an infusion of orange flowers. Orange flower water, ready pre- pared, is easily obtainable. J289-TEA ICE CREAM. Made as directed for coffee ice cream, tea being used instead of coffee. Strong Oolong is preferable. 1290— PEACH ICE CREAM. I qt. of cream. I qt. of ripe peaches, cut and peeled. I lb. of sugar. Cut the peaches small, strew over these about half of the sugar, dissolve the remainder in the cream, pour this in the freezer and when nearly frozen put in the cut peaches made very cold; mix carefully and pack down to freeze solid. 214 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. J29I— ICED SPONGE. I lb. of sugar. I cup of water. 13 3'olks of eggs. 3 whites of eggs. Yz cup of maraschino. Put the water and sugar in a bright kettle, beat the yolks light and pour the boiling syrup on them, beat this until cold, pour it in the freezer, beating con- tinuously until frozen; add the mara- schino a spoonful at a time, when all in add the whites whipped stiff enough to hold up an ^^^ and finish with a vigor- ous beating. 1292— NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM. This is a combination of three ice creams of different colors and flavors placed in equal layers in a tin box or mould made for the purpose (see engrav- ing), then frozen solid. Make three ice creams, say for instance chocolate, vanilla, strawberrj^ Have the molds freezing cold; fill these in equal layers, the white cream in the middle. This is best done with a light trowel which is made to fit snugly in the cor- ners. Put a greased paper in each of the lids; put rubber bands around each mould to keep the lids in place, pour melted butter in the interstices, place the moulds in the freezing tub, the ice pound ed fine as directed in the instructions for the freezing mixture about three hours or more, according to the size of moulds; it will then be frozen solid. When ready to serve wash the outside of the mould with a soft towel dipped in lukewarn water, remove the lids, take out the brick and serve on napkin or individual portion on plates made verj' cold. To be successful the packing or filling of the mould, also the serving, must be quickly accomplished. I293-VIENNA ICE CAKES. Paper cases made for the purposes are easily obtainable. They are made of made with double the quantity of sugar given in the regular recipes. It makes the cream very rich and a delicious frozen confection. When the cases are filled sprinkle crushed cocoanut or almond macaroons on top and place in an empty freezer with the lid on, put in pounded ice and salt packed all around and on top. J294-TUTTI FRUTTI. Can be made in square or melon shaped moulds. Make i quart of orange ice as directed elsewhere; line the bottom and sides of a two-quart brick or melon shaped mould. To coat the the inside, put the mould in the freezing mixture to freeze the coating solid. Make a pint of custard as directed at No. 13 16; flavor it with caramel and a few drops of extract of orange. Prepare two cups of cut candied fruit, and nuts; almonds, blanched and split cut figs; raisins steeped in orange syrup; citron, dates, candied pine apple, cherries, etc. Freeze the custard, mix with the cut fruit previously made very cold. Now fill the mould coated with the orange ice; spread more of the ice on top; put down the lid; fill the interstices with butter; freeze and serve as directed for Neapoli- tan ice cream. J295-ORNAMENTAL ICE CREAM. Ice cream may be served in fancy forms, large and individual sizes deco- rated with leaves, etc. , made of gelatine, also in cups made of various colored ices with but a little extra labor. Try them; you may not succeed the first time but practice will in a very short time enable you to produce ornamental ice credm of a very artistic and attractive nature. 1296— GELATINE TO ORNAMENT ICE CREAM. I package of Knox's Granualated Gela- brown paper to imitate cakes, of a size : tine, suitable for individual portions. Fill i 4 ozs. of sugar, them with almond bisque and orange j Flavoring extract. ice, or vanilla and strawberry ice cream, I i qt. of water. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 215 Put the gelatine in a bowl with a cup of cold water, make a boiling syrup of the sugar and what is left of the water, pour this over the gelatine, color and flavor, then strain. When nearly cold pour it on large platters; when set firm stamp out leaves, etc. Lemon, or any other jelly which has been prepared for the table, can be used by reducing it half by slow boiHng, ^ 1297— ICED CUPS. Individual mould made of tin in the shape of a tumbler, say 2j^ inches in ■diameter at the base and 234 inches in diameter at the top, 3>^ to 4 inches high. Place these tin cups or moulds in a tub of freezing mixture no deeper than the cups. Fill them with S}'rup made of 8 ■ounces of sugar to every quart of water and flavored with orange, lemon, straw- berry, etc. Color a bright red, green or yellow, cover the tub with a cloth or anything else suitable and let stand about 35 minutes, the cups will then have a lining of the freezing syrup about 3-16 of an inch thick. Pour out the unfrozen syrup and replace the cups in the tub to freeze dr}-. Make almond bisque, vanilla or any ice cream that will contrast pleasantly with the color of the cups; fill these with the cream, keep the tub tightly covered and well supplied with pounded ice and salt; when ready to serve wipe the out- side of the cups with a cloth dipped in lukewarm water, turn out on a cold plate and serve quickly. J298— COMBINATION ICE CREAM. Make equal quantities of pistachio and rose ice cream, serve a spoonful of each in stem glasses or plates previously made very cold. ^ J299— COMBINATION ICE No. 2. White lemon flavored ice cream. Raspberry ice. Make equal quantities of corn starch ice cream, No. 1278, and raspberry ice as directed in No. 1337, flavor the cream with extrax^t of lemon, serve in flat glass dishes, the white cream as a border and the scarlet or red ice piled in the middle, J300— COMBINATION ICE No. 3, Make equal quantities of white cherry ice cream, No. 1268, and Concord grape ice, No. 1329; serve as directed for other combination ices. i30I— COMBINATION ICE No. 4. Equal quantities of strawberry or red , cherrj' ice and almond bisque, pecan o^ j hickory nut ice cream; can be made in j bricks or served in broad champagne j glasses, the ice as a border with the I cream heaped in the middle. j ^ J302-<:OMBrNATION ICE No. 5. Equal quantities of orange ice and 'chocolate ice cream. Make a border of 1 the cream and pile the ice in the middle. 1303— COMBINATION ICE No. {>. Equal quantities of raspberry ice and best vanilla ice cream. Make a border of the ice and pile the cream in the middle. J304— COMBINATION ICE No. 7. Almond bisque and lemon or oxange ice; serve as directed in previous recipies, J305— MOUSSES. (Iced Froths) Are creams variously flavored and colored, whipped and then frozen. The original way of making this mousse or froth was to whip the cream to a light froth then placed on a fine seive, drained, put in glasses and frozen. Some of our recipes difl^er from this as they contain gelatine, etc. Nevertheless, they come under the title of mousses, and will be found very agreeable both as to the mak- ing and eating. 2l6 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. I3C6— VIOLET MOUSSE. yi box gelatine. Yz cup cold water. I quart cream. I «^ cups of powdered sugar (no lumps). I tablespoonful of sherry. Violet extract and color. Soak the gelatine in the water, then dissolve over hot water. Whip the cream in a basin, add the gelatine, then the sugar and sherry. ( The sherry can be omitted if not desired). Flavor; color a delicate lavender with violet paste. Stir the mixture until slightly thickened. Wet with cold water a Neapolitan or fancy mould; turn in the mixture; cover with a greased paper, greased side up; force on the cover and pack in ice and salt. It must remain in the freezing mixture at least two hours. When ready to serve, turn out on a fancy platcer; gar- nish with crystalized or candied violets. 1307— STRAWBERRY MOUSSE. I qt. ripe strawberries. I qt. cream. I lb. sugar. I small cup of water. Pick and wash the berries carefully; strew the sugar over them; let stand one hour, then mash and rub through a seive, using the cup of water to facilitate the operation. Partly freeze the syrup; whip the cream; beat it in; pack in amouldand freeze solid. J* 1308— COFFEE MOUSSE. Make the custard as directed at No. 13 1 6; flavor it with a cup of black coffee; vjhen cold mix with a quart of whipped cream and freeze in a mould. 1309— VANILLA MOUSSE. I qt. of cream. 8 ozs. of sugar. Extract of vanilla. Sweeten and flavor the cream more highly than for ordinary ice cream; place in a shallow bowl; whip or churn with a Dover beater or whip churn; skim and place the froth on a line seive to drain. When all whipped, put the froth thus obtained in the glasses in which it is to be served; put these in an ice cave until frozen. (See illustrations). I3J0— LEMON MOUSSE. Made as directed in the preceding recipe. Plavor with lemon instead of vanilla. 1311— CHOCOLATE MOUSSE. I pint of chocolate ice cream prepara- tion. I pint of whipped cream. Make both very cold, mix, and freeze in a mould. I3I2— PEACH MOUSSE. (Mousse ail Peches) I lb. of sugar. I qt. of cream. Yz pint of ripe peach pulp. I pint of water. Yz oz. of gelatine. Dissolve the gelatine in half of the water; make a syrup of the sugar and what remains of the water; pour the hot s)'rup to the peach pulp; add the gelatine; whip in a bowl placed in a pan of ice water; when cold, mix in the whipped cream; freeze in a mould. A few drops of extract of vanilla will greatly improve the flavor. 13 i3— FROZEN NESSELRODE PUDDING. 1 lb. of chestnuts. 2 cups of boiled custard. 2 cups of cream. A basting spoonful of shredded citron. As much of seedless Sultana raisins and candied pineapple. 3 basting spoonfuls of Maraschino. A teaspoonful of e.xtract of vanilla. Boil the chestnuts about thirty min- utes, peel and pound them through a sieve, adding half the cream to facilitate the operation ; add to this pulp the boiled custard; freeze the mixture and when firm whip the remaining cream, stir it in and whip again, then add the shredded citron, candied pineapple, raisins, Maras- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 217 chino and flavoring extract; freeze again and serve in fancy ice cream plates, or pack it in moulds to be frozen firm and sent to the table on a folded napkin placed on a fancy dish. ^ I3H- -FROZEN DIPLOMATIC PUD- DING. 1 cup of rich custard flavored with vanilla. 2 cups of rich cream. A cupful of good candied green gages and cherries. 2 dozen of lady fingers. Freeze the custard, add in the whipped cream and freeze again. Have one or- dinary square brick mould ready in pounded ice and salt, put in a layer of the ice cream and then one of lady fingers, strew some of the candied fruit cut small, and continue in this manner until the mould is full, having some of the cream for the last layer, put a waxed paper on top and put on the iid as directed in No. 1292, and pack in pound- ed ice and salt and let remain three and a half hours; serve as directetl for Nessel- rode pudding. 1.3 15 -FROZEN FIG PUDDING. I lb. of figs. I quart of milk. 8 yolks of eggs. 14 ozs. of .sugar. Caramel. Take four tablespoonfuls of the sugar and put it in a small frying pan with a tablespoonful of water; let it melt and boil down until it becomes the color of light molasses, but it must not not burn; pour in a half cupful of water and let it dis.solve. Make a custard of the milk, sugar and 3-olks; pour the caramel into it and strain immediately into the freezer; cut the figs very small, put them in the mixture and freeze in the usual way; it will look better if packed and frozen in Neapolitan ice cream moulds. I3J6-FROZEN CUSTARD. I qt. of milk. }4 lb. of sugar. 10 yolks of eggs. Vanilla extract. Boil the milk and sugar together; beat the yolks light and pour the boiling milk and sugar over them, cook a minute longer and take it off as soon as it thickens slightly; strain in the freezer; beat it a few minutes with a wire egg beater and freeze. J3 17— FROZEN TAPIOCA CUSTARD. I qt. of milk. 8 ozs. of sugar. 6 ozs. of tapioca. A basting spoonful of butter. 4 yolks of eggs. A teacupful of cream. Vanilla flavoring. Put the tapioca in half the milk and place the dish in a warm place; let it stand two and a half hours; boil the rest of the milk with the sugar in it, add the tapioca and boil fifteen minutes; stirring: almost constantly to prevent scorching it is best when cooked in a double dish ; 1 stir in the butter, then the beaten yolks; take off immediately from the fire, cool, flavor and freeze like ice cream; when it is almost finished whip the cream to a froth and beat it in. J318-FROZEiM RICE CUSTARD. Make like frozen tapioca custard, with rice washed in several waters instead of tapioca. (See No. 1317). J3J9— FROZEN SAGO CUSTARD. Made as directed for frozen tapioca custard, the sago steeped in like manner in milk and cooked only a few minutes. J320— LEMON SHERBET. 4 lemons. I % lbs. of sugar. 3 pints of water. 4 whites of eggs. Squeeze the juice of the lemons in a bowl, make a boiling syrup of the sugar and water and the grated lemon rind; pour this in the bowl with the lemon juice and let it get cold , strain this into the 2l8 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. freezer with the four whites of eggs not beaten, beat the mixture with a wire egg beaten a few minutes and freeze; this ice is perfectly white and very light. I32I-PARISIAN SHERBET. 3 cups of water. 1)4 cups of port wine. 1 lb. of sugar. 2 oranges. I lemon. I nutmeg. 4 ozs. of seedless Sultana raisins. 4 whites of eggs. I ed coloring. Make a syrup of the water and sugar, cut the oranges and lemon in small slices, put them in a bowl and pour the hot syrup over this, throw in the raisins and broken nutmeg with them; when cold strain the syrup into the freezer, add the wine and sufficient coloring to make it a deep pink and add the whites of eggs as directed elsewhere, add the sliced fruit and the raisins last; the seeds must be excluded, as it will make the sherbet bitter. J322— APPLE SHERBET. i}4 lbs. of sliced apples, a ripe mellow kind. ^ lb. of sugar. 4 coffee cupful s of water. I lemon. Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and a cup of the water, throw in the sliced apples, add the lemon cut in pieces, cover with a lid and let it cook slowly a few minutes, strain the apples and set on ice; add the remainder of the water to the syrup and freeze; when almost frozen throw in the apple and finish freezing. Pears, peaches, apricots or any other kind of fruit can be frozen as described for apples and served in combination with plain cream or frozen custard. 1323— PINEAPPLE SHERBET. Made with the same proportion of in- gredients as directed for pineapple ice, the pineapple pounded through a coarse sieve; add the whites of 4 eggs without beating before the mixture is frozen and do not color. J324— FLORENTINE SHERBET. I cup of sv.-eet wine. I cup of water. 8 ozs. of sugar. I lemon. j4 lb. of almonds, blanched and split. 3 cups of white grapes. Muscatel pre- ferred, carefully picked. Stew half of the grapes with the water and sugar; when cooked tender put the contents of the stew pans in a strainer placed over the freezer, rub the pulp through, add the wine; cut the lemon lengthwise, then cut the halves in thick slices, remove the seeds and throw these in the freezer; freeze, and finish by add- ing the remainder of the grapes and almonds, previously made very cold. 1325— HAVANA ICE. Make equal quantities of golden frozen custard (No. 1316) and orange sherbet colored a delicate pink, with fresh grated cocoanut and pieces of orange mixed in. Serve in broad champagne glasses. Make a border of the frozen custard with the back of the spoon, and the pink sherbet piled in the middle. (See recipe No. 1326). 1326— ORANGE ICE. 3 pints of water. I }4 lbs. of sugar. 5 oranges. The juice of one lemon, if the oranges are very sweet. Whites of four eggs. Make a syrup of the sugar and a half cup of the water; peel half the oranges, divide these in portions, pull apart by the natural division, throw these pieces in the boiling syrup; grate the rind of the remaining oranges into the bowl, squeeze in the juice, also the juice of the lemon, pour in the syrup from the scalded oranges through a strainer, keep the pieces on ice to be mixed in last, add the remainder of the water to the con- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 219 tents of the bowl and strain into the freezer; put in the whites of eggs (not beaten), and the pieces of oranges when finished. A good accompaniment for almond bisque. 1327— PEACH ICE. i}4 qts. of peeled and stoned peaches, must be ripe and mellow. I lb. of sugar. 1 qt. of water. A coffee cupful of red currant jelly. A small half of the peach kernels. 2 whites of eggs. Cut half of the peaches in pieces as large as cherries, put the water, sugar, chopped kernels and the other half of the peaches together in a sauce pan and boil a few minutes, mash the peaches with the back of a spoon, put in the currant jelly; take out the kernels and press through a strainer, freeze, and add the beaten whites of the eggs when the mixture is almost frozen, add at the same time the cut up peaches. Can be served plain or with vanilla ice cream spread in individual dishes with the peach ice piled in the center. 1328— GRAPE ICE. i}4 qts. of sweet white grapes picked from the stem. I cup of angelica wine. I cup of water. }4 lb. of sugar. ^ of a large ripe lemon. 8 ozs. of blanched almonds. Stew half the grapes in the water and sugar, then strain the syrup and rub the pulp through a sieve into a freezer, add the wine and the lemon cut in slices and freeze this mixture; when almost frozen drop in the blanched almonds, give a few more turns and add the remaining grapes kept cold on ice, do not turn any more, but cover the ice so it will freeze solid. ^; 1329— CONCORD GRAPE ICE. I cupful of Concord grapes picked from the stem. I lb. of sugar. 4 cups of water. The juice of a small lemon. Mash the grapes and sugar together, add the lemon juice and water, strain into the freezer with all the pulp it is possible to rub through; freeze, and when almost done beat with the paddle until the color is lighter and the freezing finished. 1330— APRICOT ICE. 1^4 piuts of apricots cut in small pieces. }4 lb. of sugar. 1 pint of water. Kernels of half the apricots. 2 whites of eggs. Keep a cup of the cut apricots to be added to the ice; when finished stew the remainder with the water, sugar and peeled kernels, rub the fruit with a .spoon through a sieve into the freezer along with the syrup, then freeze; when it is nearly finished add the whites of two eggs whipped to a firm froth, freeze rapidly for a short time, then stir in the cut fruit; pack it in more ice and salt and when firmly frozen it is ready to 1331— RED CHERRY ICE. I qt. of sweet red cherries. I pint of water. ^ lb. of sugar. Mash the fruit thoroughly, breaking the stones, strain the juice into a freezer, boil the remaining pulp with half of the sugar and water, press this through a strainer into the freezer, add the remain- ing water and sugar and freeze.- This ice will be light and smooth without the addition of the whites of eggs. 1332— STRAWBERRY : I qt. of strawberries. I lb. of sugar. 3 cups of water. Clean and wash the strawberries, drain them carefully, put the sugar over them and let stand an hour, mash them, rub through a strainer into the freezer, add the water and freeze without beating. Part of the berries may be reserved to add in when the ice is frozen. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 1333— CURRANT ICE. Make as directed for strawberry ice. J334-PINEAPPLE ICE. I can of pineapple. I lb. of sugar. I qt. of water. 4 whites of eggs. Strain the juice into the freezer, make a syrup of the sugar, half the water and the pineapple previously cut in small pieces, let boil five minutes and strain into the freezer; add the remaining water and whites of eggs not beaten, and enough coloring to make it pink, throw in the pieces of pineapple when finished, and let it remain until ready to serve, and if they have not well mixed in the ice stir them in a little. I335-PUNCH A LA RICHELIEU. I pint of port or amonlillado. I pint of claret. 1 qt. of water. 20 ozs. of sugar. 2 large oranges (blood oranges" pre- ferred ) . 20 whole cloves. 5 whites of eggs. Place the oranges in the oven until baked a light brown; make a boiling svrup of the sugar, water and cloves, put the whole baked oranges in this syrup and let stand until cold, then strain into the freezer, squeeze the juice from the oranges and add with the wines and the whites of eggs not whipped, color a bright red; serve in punch goblets. J336— ORANGE AND COCOANUT ICE. I cup of port wine. 1 pint of water. % lb. of sugar. 2 oranges. I lemon. yi lb. of desiccated cocoanut. ^ cup of raspberry juice, or sufficient coloring to make it a bright pink. Make a syrup of the water and sugar; slice the lemon and oranges, take out the seeds, put the slices in an earthern bowl and pour the boiling syrup over them, let stand three-fourths of an hour, then strain the syrup into the freezer, add the wine and coloring, then freeze; cool the oranges, cocoanut and lemon slices on ice and stir them in when the preparation is nearly frozen; repack the contents of the freezer and let stand an hour or so, until firmly frozen. J337— RASPBERRY ICE. I qt. of vdld raspberries. % lb. of sugar. I pint of water. White of two eggs. Pick out a cupful of the best rasp- berries and keep them to put in the ice last. Make a syrup of the sugar and half of the water, pour it over the rasp- berries, mash them with the back of a spoon, then put them in a strainer and rub through into the freezer; beat the eggs to a froth and put them in the freezer, finish freezing and then drop in the cup of raspberries reserved for the purpose; pack the freezer with more ice and salt and let it remain until the con- tents are firm; can be served with whipped cream or plain vanilla ice cream with the red ice piled in the hollow middle. 1338— ROMAN PUNCH. I lb. of sugar. 3 cups of water. The juice and rinds of three lemoms. 4 whites of eggs. % teacupful each of white rum and angelica wine. The rind of one orange and the juice of four. Grate the rinds of the orange and lemons into a bowl, then squeeze in the juice of all the lemons and oranges ex- cluding the seeds, make a syrup of half the water and the sugar, partly cool it and pour it on the juice and grated rinds, when cold add the wine and the rest of the water and strain into the freezer, when partly frozen add the whipped whites, beat a few minutes, add the rum, beat and finish freezing. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. J339— STRAWBERRY PUNCH. Prepare strawberries as directed for strawberry ice, put in a cup of wine, color it a deep pink and freeze in the usual way. J340— PUNCH A LA RUSSE. A pint of black tea made of an ounce of tea to a quart of water. 1 cup of port wine. 3 basting spoonfuls of brandy. 12 ozs. of sugar. 2 small lemons. Caramel coloring. Cut the lemons in thin slices, put them in an earthern bowl, make a boiling syrup of the water and sugar, pour this over the lemon, let it get cold, then add a pint of tea, the wine and brandy, strain the punch into the freezer; put the lemon slices on ice and add them to the punch wlien finished; use enough of the caramel coloring to make it the color of ginger ale. The liquors in this punch will not allow it to freeze as firm as fruit punches. J34 1— IMPERIAL PUNCH. 3 cups of water. 1 small pineapple. 2 oranges. 2 lemons. I .small nutmeg. 4 whites of eggs. A cupful of maraschino, kirsch and Curacao in equal parts. ^ pint of champagne. Grate the pineapple, add the lemon rind and juice, also the orange rind and juice and broken nutmeg, make a hot syrup of the water and sugar, pour it on the fruit and let stand until perfectly cold, stram and squeeze the syrup from the pineapple, freeze, and add the whites beaten to a stiff froth in the usual man- ner; a few minutes before serving add the cup of mixed cordials and the pint of champagne. )1342— ANGELICA PUNCH. I pint of angelica wine. I pint of water. 8 ozs. of sugar. ^2 lb. of seedless Sultana raisins. 1 lemon. Whites of two eggs. 2 ozs. of pulverized sugar. Chop the raisins and grate the lemon rind and squeeze in all the juice, pour the hot water over them, add the sugar and stir until it is all dissolved; strain the syrup into a freezer, then rub most of the pulp through it, add the wine, then freeze; when nearly frozen whip the whites of eggs to a tiff froth, add the pulverized sugar to them, beat a moment longer and mix in with the contents of the freezer and finish freezing. 1343— VICTORIA PUNCH. 3 oranges. 6 lemons. i^y4 lbs. of sugar. I qt. of water. I cup of angelica wine. }4 teacupful of rum. 4 whites of eggs. Grate the rind of the lemon into a bowl, add the rum, stir it a few minutes to obtain the flavor, squeeze in the juice of the oranges and lemon, add the rest of the ingredients and fieeze; beat the whites to a firm froth, stir them in when the mixture is almost frozen, beat up and finish freezing. 1344— GENEVA PUNCH. 5 cups of water. I lb. of sugar. 3 lemons. I orange. I cupful of pineapple. A basting spoonful of gin. A teacupful of champagne or angelica wine. Grate the rinds of the lemons and oranges into a bowl, squeeze in the juice, add half of the water; then make a boil- ing syrup of the sugar and the other half of the water and pour it over the contents of the bowl; strain in the freezer; chop the pineapple and put it in, add the gin, champagne and wine, color it a del- icate pink and freeze. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 1345— KIRSCHWASSER PUNCH. I qt. of water. 1% lbs. of sugar. The juice of two large ripe lemons. A cupful of kirschwasser. 4 whites of eggs. Mix all of the ingredients cold, strain into the freezer, add the whites of eggs without beating and freeze rapidly. 1346— PUNCH A LA REGENCE. I pint of water. I cup of gin. 1 lemon. yi lb. of sugar. yi teacupful of kirsch. 2 bottles of soda water. Giate the rind of the lemon into an earthern bowl, moisten with half the gin and rub with a small masher to ex- tract the flavor, add the juice of the lemon and all the ingredients but the soda water, strain into the freezer and freeze it as firm as possible, then add the soda water and finish the freezing. The spirits contained in this preparation will not allow this punch to be frozen very much. 1347— ICE BOX OR CAVE Can be procured ready made of any fur- nisher but they are rather expensive, and something may be improvised which will answer the purpose just as well. A clothes boiler with a tight lid placed in a box with pounded ice and salt packed all around and on top will do the service of the best ice box or cave. Ice Cave Ice Cream Mould Melon Mould r, . i xt t. -rtt tj For Nesselrode Pudding, Pressed Meat, Brick Or Neapolitan Mould etc., etc. Egg Beater Ice Cream Dishing Spoon Trowel For the filling of ice cream brick moulds. Chocolates^ Cream Drops^ Jellies, Bon Bons, Stick Candy, Etc* NOTES ON CANDY MAKING. It may appear at first sight that the following recipes demand a larger outlay than most amateur candy makers might want to invest, but upon second consider- ation it will be seen that the cost of such articles as those needed in the making of the confections which are given in this book IS within the means of the most economical. The confections which it will be possible to produce are a constant source of amusement and profit. Unlimited variations can be produced from the fundamental formulae, such as fondant, jellies, stick candy, toys, etc. From the fondant No. 1348 rose, straw- berry, raspberry, violet, orange, lemon, pineapple, cinnamon, pistachio and scores of other bon bons can be made, simply by the use of the different extracts and color paste — pink, red, lavender, orange, yellow and green respectively. These can be crystalized (see No. 1363) or dipped in water icing (see No. 1366), thus creating an almost endless variety of delicately colored bon bons. Many of the old fashioned confectioners do not use a thermometer. This demands a great deal of experience. Now, if you use the thermometer you know just where you are all the time and can take off your batch just at the right moment, and this very often means success. Another indispensable article is the marble slab, which can be procured of any marble dealer; 3x1^ feet is a very good size, and four iron rods half an inch square to put around the edge of the marble to keep the boiling syrup from running over when it is poured on. The best cream of tartar only must be used; it prevents granulation, and the proportion should be carefully main- { tained, for if too nuich is used the candy will remain stick}' and soft, or melt to syrup again. J* 1348— FONDANT, OR CREAM. Fondant, or cream, as commonly called by confectioners, is the article which forms the basis of all cream bonbons, and is also used for covering jellies, cake, etc. A number of the following recipes refer to this cream, which can be kept in a covered jar for a long time. The making of fondant may appear difficult but it is the key to success in candy making, and so cheap that it ought to be given just considera- tion. 10 lbs. best "A" sugar. 5 pints of water. I teaspoonful of best cream of tartar. Put the sugar and water in a bright kettle over a brisk fire. When it begins to boil add the cream of tartar; it is then time to use the thermometer; put it in the boiling mixture, and when the mercury shows 244 take off the fire, and set the kettle in a tub of cold water. "While it is still warm, but not hot, stir briskly with a long handled wood paddle until the mixture turns very white and creamy. Just before beginning to stir flavor with two tablcspoonfuls of vanilla or one of extract of lemon, or it may be colored pink, lavender, orange, etc., and flavor to taste with any kind of extract, or it may be left plain and flavored as wanted. When beginning to stir, the motion should be regular, as otherwise it might granulate. When creamed, pour it out of the kettle and work it with the hands as you would dough until all lumps have disappeared and the cream is of uniform 224 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. texture. Place in a covered stone jar readv for use. J349-CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS No. I, Roll pieces of the fondant No. 1348 to the size and shape of ordinary marbles, and place them on strips of paper slightly greased. Get ready the chocolate dipping mixture as directed in No. 135 1, or plain chocolate melted in a bowl set in boiling water; drop in the balls two at a time, lift them out with a fork and replace on the greased paper to dry in a cool place. 1350 -CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS No. 2. '/z lb. of pulverized or icing sugar. I tea.spoonful of powdered gum arabic. A basting spoonful of Vjoiling water. .V teaspoonful of extract of vanilla Chocolate. Cut or break the chocolate in a tin cup and set this in a small pan of hot water, let it melt ready to dip in the drops; dissolve the gum arabic in the boiling water and stir in the sugar; there nmst be enough sugar to make a stiff dough, adding the vanilla when the sugar is stirred in, turn on the table, roll it to a cord and cut off in balls the size of hazel nuts and dip in the chocolate as directed in No. 1349. i35I— BEST CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS. r*Iake the inside as directed in No. 1350 or 1348, make the balls in plain or fancy shapes and dip them in chocolate icing prepared as follows : I cup of icing sugar. 4 tablespoonfuls of water. 3 ounces of chocolate. Grate the chocolate and stir it in with the water and sugar and melt gradually at the side of the range where it will not get too hot; when it has become hot enough to boil beat it thoroughly to mix it and dip in the drops; if the icing gets cool set the dish in hot water. 1352— CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS. Make white cream candy as described for lemon cream candy; flavor with vanilla, when nearly cold mould the candy in your fingers the size of hazel nuts. Melt common chocolate at the side of the range and dip the drops by means of a fork in the chocolate and set them in buttered pans to cool and set. Various shapes can be made with the same ma- terial . ^ 1353— CHOCOLATE DOMINOES. Make the cream mixture as directed in No. 1350 or 1348 for chocolate cream drops; roll it out thin and pour a layer of melted chocolate upon it, when cold cut into squares and dot with white icing to imitate dominoes. ^ B54-CHOCOLATE CANDY TO PULL. I lb. of sugar. I lb. of syrup. I cupful of cream. I oz. of grated chocolate. Flavoring. Boil the cream, syrup and sugar to- gether about fifteen minutes, then throw in the chocolate and boil until the candy sets brittle in cold water; pour on dishes, flavor with vanilla when cold enough to handle and pull. J355-CHOCOLATE CREAM BAR. Grease some paper and fit it carefully around the sides and bottom of a pan one inch and a half high; melt some chocolate or prepare the chocolate dipping mixture as directed in No. 135 1; pour it in the pan to the depth of a quarter of an inch. Take sufficient of the cream No. 1348, put it in the candy kettle and stir continually over the fire until melted; pour it over the chocolate in the pan to the thickness of an inch; when this is cool put a layer of chocolate on top similar to that put in the bottom (X of an inch thick); when cold, take out and cut it in narrow bars. Improved Candy Funnel. Used to run bon bons and various other confectionery in starch. It is worked b}^ a spiral spring and can be easily regulated ^ o_ p »— * 3 £ r* a. i->< hj Oq C« ffi 2 3 C£ a- g. a. (T> ^ p": O rt '^' o (_f. g- en -1 tn 7) 5 \o'- !3^- PLAIN LETTERING FOR CAKES. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 239 J425— HOW TO DECORATE CAKES, When cakes are to be decorated it should be done with a view to the occa- sion for which they are intended. The opportunities offered are often varied and will afford many suggestions to those having an artistic nature. The engraving on the following page shows how piping is done, also the design of the cake decorated in white icing which can be made by following the di- rections given in this part of the book. The cake itself is a fruit cake made as di- rected at No. 1 161 doubly iced, the first coat being given rather thin and the second a little thicker, both of Royal icing as directed at No. 1409. The piping and superstructure is of pure white icing; around the edges may be placed a border of white roses and leaves and the basket on top filled with the lightest of confec- tions. The decorations of the cake might be finished with flowers, smilax, or delicate green ferns. If the cake is made for a bride it will then be equal, or I should think superior, to those made with gum paste ornaments, etc. Now for the upper structure; this is made as follows: Trace a scroll on a piece of cardboard as shown in the fol- lowing illustration, place a piece of gauze or net over this and follow with a star piping tube the tracing of the design that can be seen through the meshes of the net. When this is dried reverse the design which has been piped and repeat the design where the net has been re- moved, make four of these scrolls and when they are all dry and hard they are ready to be set as a support for the bas- ket or tray which is to surmount this structure. Now these must be fastened together so that they stand perpendicular and square. A good way to do this is to procure a small box and break off one side with one end attached, lay two of the scrolls on the wood one-fourth of an inch apart; lay icing on the edges and place a third on edge on top of them, all three touching the end piece of the board which is upright and acts as a square. Set it in a warm place and when dry set it upright; il will then stand without sup- port. Place the other scroll, which will stand with a touch of icing; when dry place upon the cake and proceed to make the basket or brackets which is to sur- mount the four scrolls. H26— TO MAKE THE Bi^SKETS. Use a shallow glass dish, cover it with tin foil or wax it over with equal quanti- ties of white wax and mutton tallow, then cover with piping. Begin by plac- ing a design on the outer edge, then cover the rest of the mold with open lace- like piping sufficiently joined to hold the icing together; when dry warm the inside of the dish just enough to melt the wax and turn it over when the basket will come off easily. If the mold or other object which serves as a support for pip- ing is covered with tin foil it need not be warmed but just turned right side up, the mold removed carefully and the tin foil picked away, as it does not adhere to it. Both ways are good, but I prefer the work on tin foil. The handle of the basket is made on a piece of tin bent to the required shape, in a similar manner as described for the basket proper, but it will be a good deal stronger if made in two pieces to be joined in the middle with some icing and a small white flower made of icing placed on the joint. J427- RAISED BORDER ORNA- MENT. This can be made on a tin hoop made to fit the cake, waxed and the pattern piped upon it in panels divided at con- venient distances; when these are dry, warm the tin so as to melt the wax and set the border around the edges of the cake. These might be made on net as described at No. 1420 for piping on net. The pattern drawn on cardboard can be made more accurately than when piped on the tin hoop. 1428— ANOTHED WAY TO MAKE RAISED BORDER. Place the cake to be ornamented up- side down on a round gallon syrup can or other object of this description, then with the piping syringe or bag and tube, 240 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. hang a loop all around the edge; when this is dry put on another of larger size and continue in this manner until you have four tiers or rows one over the other. Let it get perfectly dry then turn the cake in its right position and the bor- der will be of the finest that it is possible to make. J429-AN EASY AND HANDSOME DESIGN. The following design is light, very ef- fective and easy of execution. Pipe solid dots, one inch apart round the edge of the top of the cake; pipe a row of similar dots one inch below, each dot to be be- tween the two upper dots, proceed thus to the bottom of the cake; let the dots get quite dry before proceeding further. Now drop a loop line of icing from one dot to the other next to it, letting the middle of the loop line touch and fasten to the dot below; proceed thus until you reach the bottom, the result being that the side of the cake is covered with a net of loops standing about one-eighth of an inch from the side. Do the top part of the cake on the same principle, let it thoroughly dry, then repeat the process six or eight times until it has the effect of a faiiy like net work of sugar, finish- ing up with dots and studding each dot with a sugar-coated sugar pill. It is ab- solutely necessary that each set of drops gets quite dry before the loops are piped on them, and the loops must be quite dry before the next set of dots is piped on. J430— FORM OF CAKES. Decorated cakes are usually made in a circle, or round shape, but such need not necessarily be the case, and a pleas- ing variety might be produced by baking them in other styles, square, rectangular or even triangular, the only requisite be- ing the necessary baking apparatus, and for decorating alter the design to suit the shape of each cake, an operation easily performed. I43I— COLORS OF CAKES. White and delicate pink are the most acceptable colors for cake decorations. Where other colors are employed care must be taken that they are used with good artistic effect. Chocolate decorated with white icing is very acceptable for small cakes. H32— PAPER DECORATIONS. Cakes may be quickly and prettily or- namented by cutting from unruled writ- ing paper, flowers and leaves, dip them in white of egg — not frothed, then sprinkle then with granulated sugar, al- lowing time to dry, and arrange them on top of the cake. 1433— CAKE DECORATED WITH ALMONDS AND FRUIT. Ice a cake on the top and sides, and when nearly dry slick all over the cake blanched almonds with the points up- wards, around the top, alternate the al- monds with candied cherries, then thin strips of figs, placed at regular distance all around and on top of the cake. .^ J434— CAKE DECORATED WITH WALNUTS AND CANDIED ORANGE. Ice a cake either white or pink, make a border of walnuts all around the top, and another around the bottom, cut even strips of candied orange peel or citron, place a row of these between the rows of walnuts, and on the top place a mixed design of the walnuts and orange peel. 1435— CAKE DECORATED WITH ROCK CANDY. Ice a cake either white or pink, then sprinkle with crushed rock candy, white and pink equally mixed. 1436 — CAKE MOUNTED WITH CRYSTALLIZED GRAPES. Crystallize a perfect bunch of grapes (Malaga preferred) by dipping in whipped whites of eggs, then dust with as much sugar as will stick to the grapes; let dry, and place on top of a cake nicely iced with a simple design piped all around the edges. Cake Decoration in Royal Icing. Sc^ See preceditig page for complete details. Scroll Pattern for Mounted Cake. Ornamentation for Cake Top. Designs for Cake Tops. Designs for Cake Tops. Ornamentation for Cake Borders. Ornamentation for Cake Border. Ornamentation of Cakes. Ornamentation of Cakes. & W PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 241 1437— MOULDED ORNAMENTS AND TOYS. Fruit, small toys and various other ar- ticles can be easily produced by making plaster of paris moulds as follows: Ta^'e plaster of paris of the finest kind (dentist plaster) mix it with water to the consis- tency of thick cream, pour it in a box deep enough to contain the object for which you intend to make a mould. Apples, pears, plums, small dolls, carved or stamped articles, etc., must be first immersed in oil, then press the edge into the soft plaster of pans mixture; in a short time the plaster will harden suffici- ently to withdraw the article, if a carved or simply a flat object, but for a whole apple, bunch of grapes, tomato or any- thing similar, let the plaster harden suf- ficiently to saw the whole block in two, remove the fruit and bake the mould at a gentle heat. A small hole is then made when the two halves are tied together so that the candy can be poured in when the moulded article is desired. When the moulds are ready they should be oiled preparatory to receiving the candy, which is made as follows: I lb. of granulated sugar. A small cup of hot water. A level teaspoonful of powdered gum arable. One-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tar- tar. Lemon or other flavoring. Dissolve the gum arabic in the hot wa- ter, add the sugar and cream of tartar and when thoroughly mixed set on the fire to boil; it must not be stirred; after it has boiled, try by dropping a little in cold water; when it retains its shape pour it into the moulds. This will produce clear objects, but if these are to be col- ored give the candies 15 to 20 turns in the kettle after the color is added just before turning it out. If wanted white and opaque give a few turns as for the colored candy. Be sure the candy has boiled enough or it will not retain its shape for any length of time. If too much cream of tartar is added the candy will quickly melt to syrup again. When the articles are taken out of the moulds, they can be painted, or decorated with piping. 1438— COLONADE OF ALMOND. Select almonds of equal size, blanch them and cut or split in halves, dry them a day in a warm closet, spread in a thin layer and covered up. Dip in melted candy or caramel sugar with a large darning needle and fix in regular rows at the bottom and on the sides of a mould of plain cylindrical form previously oiled and made very cold, as it gradually be- comes warmed by the sugar. When per- fectly cold turn out of the mould and fill with Nesselrode Pudding (see No. 1313) or some of the charlotte prepara- tions. If filled with a frozen dessert it must be done just before it is handed to tlie table. ^ I439-MACEDOINE OF FRUIT. A mould of alternati; layers of different fruits filled up with jelly, very attractive and easily made. Have read}' wine or lemon jelly, pour a little in the bottom of the mould which may be placed in ice water to facilitate the operation; when this is set place another layer of fruit of a different kind and continue until the mould is full. When well set and just before going to the table turn out in a fancy dish. Almost any kind of fruit may be used, grapes, oranges, strawber- ries, pitted cherries, etc. ^ J440-GENEVA LAKE. Make a four layer jelly cake of a di- ameter as broad as the cake stand to be used, cut out the inside of all but the bottom layer of the cake, making a basin surrounded by a wall about an inch and a half thick. Spread the inside with some kind of jam or marmalade to hide the cake, and fill with clear light red jelly. Ice over the top and sides of the surrounding rim of cake. When the jelly is poured in, it must be just at the point of beginning to set. Decorate the surface of the jelly with white piping, using the smallest tube. A border may be piped on the rim or it may be decorat- ed with small white flowers made as di- rected at No. 1422. 242 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. t44 J— GRAPES IN JELLY. Have ready some very clear and bright jelly, pour a little in a melon-shaped mould or any other kind suitable; when set place upon it a fine bunch of grapes and fill up with more jell}'. Keep cold until ready to serve. J442— TURKISH JELLY. Pi'epare three or more different colored jellies, cut it in small dice and mix together, moisten with a little clear jelly melted, but nearly cold; fill the mould and pour in enough of the melted jelly to fill all the interstices. 1443— NEAPOLITAN JELLY. Prepare equal quantities of three dif- ferentl}'- colored and flavored jellies; pour one in the mould, when set solid pour m another and when this is also set solid pour in the last; when ready to serve turn out on a dish and ornament with leaves, etc., stamped out of thi-n sheets of bright colored jelly. J444— A ROYAL GALANTINE. Get the tin.smith to make three galan- tine moulds of different sizes and flaring, so that piled on each other npside down they will form a pyramid. The largest may hold four quarts, the next two and the smallest one qttart. The long and narrow shape, almost like a brick with the edges sharp, looks as well as any. Prepare three boned and pressed fowls to correspond in size with the moulds, leav- ing plenty of room for the jelly. Prepare five quarts of aspic jelly clarified twice and very firm, then a large sheet of yel- low custard made of eleven yolks of eggs mixed with one-half a small cup of clear broth and steam in a four-quart milk pan. Set over a dish of boiling water, the pan to be slightly buttered before the custard is poured in. Also prepare a similar sheet of white custard made of the whites of the eggs in the same way. These custards when cold are to be loosened around the edges and turned out on a slab to be stamped out in fancy shapes, spear heads, leaves, stars, etc. To mix with these there may be also fancy shapes cut from slices of raw beets^ carrots, or some kind of pickles such a& large peppers and mangoes; all these must be wiped with a dry towel so as to* free them from moisture. The pattern? should be graded in size to corresponci with the different sized moulds. Set each mould in a pan of broken ice and salt, pour in some melted jelly and orr the j'elly, as it coats the sides, construct the pattern desired and when well set pour over another coat of jfeHy to secure- the shape in place, finish even with the tops of the moulds with a large pattern' of spear heads in very close order, and these rrust be cut from some firm materi- al so that it maj- add strength to the foundation edge. "Wlien the decoration is complete and well set place the boned fowls inside and fill the mould's aroutid them with clear jelly so nearly cold as not to endanger melting the patterns from the sides. Make sure that the boned fowl is cut deep enough to rest on the bottom of the mould and reach even with the top, as> the jelly will not bear any pressure, and the blocks of meat must rest upon each other when bniU up. ^ 1445— POISSON EN ASPIC, Fi^ in Aspic Jelly. Boil equal quantities of red or pink fleshed fish and whitefish, let it get cold in the liquor it has boiled in, then take- out and wipe with a clean towl dipped in hot water; peel off the skin; then with a broad knife split the fish down the back, remove the bone and lay the fillets on a board, to be cut in finger-like strips. Get ready a pan of water, ice and salt, to dip the mould in so that the jelly will set quickly. Flavor some melted aspic jelly with Chile vinegar, then coat the moulds, with it by turning a little around in them till set. Place the pieces of fish upright in order around the mould, alternate the red and white fleshed fish and place a delicate line of green celery leaves between the pieces of fisb. One side of the mould has to be finished PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 243 at a time, a little jelly poured over and allowed to set in the ice water- it is tken turned over and the other side lined. Now for the inside filling. Mix equal quantities of aspic jelly and tliick maj'on- aiaise, put the bowl on ice and beat the mixture light; have ready some finely chopped celery and just before the aspic and mayonnaise mixture sets stir in the celery. Then fill the fish-lined mould and let it stand in a cold place till time to serve. Garnish the edge of the disli ■with shrimps, lemon and watercress or parsley. A quart and a half or two quart octagon mould is best suited for this purpose. J446— SHRIMPS IN ASPIC Very Ornamental. H«ve ready slender conical shaped •wine glasses as many as there are guests to be served. Pour a spoonful of well- flavored aspic jelly in each glass, let it run all around to coat the sides, stick the shrimps in order upon the jelly and let it set in a cold place. When about two rows have been put in place put a tea- spoonful of green chopped lettr.cc, 1 previously moistened with salad dros:>iijg, in each cavity, aad the shrimp dipped in jelly can be placed in the upper rows on the point of a fork. Fill up with the chopped lettuce and finish filling with aspic jelly made cold, almost to the point of setting. The glasses have to be placed in ice water if the weather is not cold. Care must be taken that the glasses set level while the jelly is solidifying. When ready to serve wipe the outside of the glasses with a towel dipped in hot water; turn out, place around each cone a border of parsley or watercress, and stick a flower on top. J447-TO MAKE A GIGANTIC EGG. If properly made this egg can sur- mount a dish of salad and when cut will cause a great deal of astonishment. Take eleven eggs, separate the whites from the yolks; have ready a small bladder thoroughly cleaned and washed, pour the yolks into this bladder and shape it like a large .sphere, close it and plunge it in boiling water.; when the yolks are done hard take them out of the boiling water and peel the bladder off, you will then have a large ball of egg yolk. Take a larger bladder, put in the whites, then the ball of yolks of eggs, which will sus- pend itself naturally in the center of the whites, close the bladder, plunge it into boiling water; when cooked hard remove and place the bladder in ice water for a few minutes to prevent the discoloring of the whites, then peel the hladder and the egg is ready to serve as a center orna- ment in a dish of salad. J448— PYRAMID OF WHITE AND BROWN SANDWICHES. Make equal numbers of thin brov\>n bread sandwiches and white bread sand- wiches. Serve them on a napkin placed on a silver tray or any other suitable dish, in the form of a pyramid, alternat- ing the brown and white sandwiches. Spread fresh cream cheese or neufcha- tel on the slices of brown bread, mayon- naise and a crisp leaf of lettuce between the slices of white bread, trim all even, and cover with a napkin just dampened, until read^' to serve. 1449— RIBBON S.\NDWICHES. Cut thin slices of the finest and whitest bread of close grain and newly baked and remove the crust, spread with pitted ham or tongue, roll them up and tie them around with narrow satin ribbon, making a true lover's knot on each; fold napkins fan shape, place these on a fancy dish, and pile up the sandwiches. H50-SALAD GARNISHINGS. CELERY.— The white leaves are at- tractive on all salads containing celery. A small edging of the leaves may be placed all around the salad and one of parsley on the outside of the edge of celery leaves. CAPERS. — May be arranged in com- bination with shrimps, quartered lemon, etc. EGGS.— Hard boiled and cut into thin slices or lengthwise. 244 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. FIvOWERS.— Either cut or wild flow- ers can be used as a centerpiece for a large dish of salad placed in a narrow wine glass. JELLY. — Leaves and other patterns stamped out of firm aspic 'jelly. LETTUCE.— The leaves always form an excellent base and edge for most all salads. LEMON — Quarters or slices sprinkled with parsley may be arranged in suitable combination with stoned olives, shrimps, etc. LOBSTEF.— The claws placed on ends with a combination of parsley, or lettuce and lemon. LAMBS' TONGUE.— Pickled and cut into thin slices for meat salads. OLIVES. — Stoned or stuffed in com- bination with watercress, parsley, etc. OYSTERS. — Spiced oysters are suit- able on fish salads in various combina- tions. PARSLEY. — Parsley is always accept- able, also chopped very fine sprinkled over the top of certain salads or slices of lemon. PICKLED BEETS.— Thin slices or cut into stars, leaves, diamonds, or slices the size of a lead pencil cut with a scal- lop potato knife. PICKLES.— Cut in thin strips or in shapes stamped out with a cutter. RED RADISHES.— Cut in thin strips or to imitate blossoms. SARDINES.— On salmon and other fish salads. SHRIMPS.— On fish salads in com- binations with parsley, lemon, etc. WATERCRESS. -Suitable for edges if fresh and crisp. Parsley should be chopped very fine; inclose it in a clean towel, and wring by twisting it until all the juice is expressed; it is then a green dust and will divide like grain of corn meal, and can be spread with great facility. 145 1— PAPER FRILLS AND ROSETTES. For Chops, Cutlets, Etc. Cut a strip of note paper into strips two inches wide and double them length- wise to make the width of a paper blade. Cut the double edge into fringe a quarter inch deep, move the edges of the paper one higher than the other and the fringe will be bowed out instead of lying flat; fasten the edge that way with a touch of corn starch paste made very stiff. Then roll the fringed pieces of paper around a pencil, and fasten the end with paste if they are to be used over the end of frogs' legs, but if for chops and cutlets make them larger, ac- cording to size of the article to be served. A touch of stiff paste will hold them in place. J452— INDIVIDUAL PAPER CASES. For Charlotte Russe, Etc. Have handy some unruled writing paper, or still better, some fine book paper; fit a band of paper to the outside of a very small tumbler. The band of paper when cut to fit will form a curve, cut as many such pieces as are needed, and then, placing three or four together, cut both top and' bottom edges into fringe a quarter of an inch in depth. Have read}' some corn starch paste made very stiff, and paste the ends of the bands together, forming cup shapes, then trim around the edges, press the fringe bottom edges on the paste, the fringe bent outward. They are then ready to be lined with cake or lady fingers (see recipes for charlottes). Selection of Wines* — Service of the Table* J453— WHAT THE AUTHOR CON- SIDERS THE BEST WAY TO SET A DINNER T^BLE. Contrary to the ideas of most caterers the use of large or small ornamental pieces or an abundance of confectionery, cakes, etc., frilled and flounced linen is a thing altogether passe. I even dare say that it is considered bad form. A great reform has taken place in late years in the manner of setting a banquet table, and the showy set pieces of flowers, heavy banks of moss and roses, large basket shapes, fixed strings of smilax have been discarded and is admired by only that class who have been impressed years ago by such mounted pieces in times when dame fortune was not smiling on them. I do not mean to say that occasion will never present itself where a set piece could not be considered good form, for certain occasions will demand such things as pertain to the achievements of a guest. It is only lately that I have seen a ban- quet table on which was mounted a beau- tiful model of a piece of machinery, the creation of a famous engineer, and this is an exception which certainly might re- peat itself. I am speaking generally of special functions when the banquet is not given in honor or memory of the work or achievement of a certain indi- vidual. Immaculate linen, brilliant glassware, a few ferns gracefully laid up- on the table cloth, low cut glass bowls filled with seasonable flowers will in my estimation present a very smart, fresh ap- pearance. There might be a single rose, a pink or carnation at each gentleman's place, and for the ladies a small bunch of pinks or roses; this is very appropriate at a banquet where circumstances are not so that the ladies come in evening dress. A perfect service demands that all the comforts that it is possible to give the guests seated at the table should be care- fully attended to, so I will advise that all the silver that is to be used for the whole dinner should not be put on the table. Fresh silver can easily and quickly Vje brought in at any time when a course is brought in or the old one re- moved. Now for the wine glasses. When three kinds of wines are served the glasses should not be removed from the table, but if more is served I would recommend the removal of one or two glasses which contains the first an i second service of wine. Bread should be passed around and not laid on the table. The laying out of a wedding breakfast differs a little from that of a banquet in that well chosen floral decorations and mounted cakes are not considered bad form. Otherwise all the other instruc- tion of the setting of the banquet table may be followed. The following illus- tration will give a clearer idea of what I consider the proper laying of a dinner table. I454-TWO WAYS OF SERVING DINNER. Course dinners are served in two dif- ferent styles, the French and the Rus- sian service, or club dinner. The French service requires thor- oughly trained waiters to avoid any blunders, as everything is served on large dishes elaborately decorated, the waiter helping each guest to a portion. This style of service is not popular. It may be antique and venerable, but too slow to suit. The Russian service or club dinner is by far the most satisfactory. It is quicker and simpler. All fish, meat, game, entrees, pastry, ices, etc., are pre- pared in individual portions, nicely gar- 246 FRACTICAIv AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. nished and ornamented. The cooks and waiters do much of the work that is inipcsed on the guest when the French method is adopted, as in this case the guests are served with just abom the sized order wanted and in a much more appetizing way than if a portif-n was served from a large dish handled at the table. 1455— PROPER DISHES TO USE. BOUILLON OR CONSOMMES — Should be served in cups if clear, but when it contains ve ,etables, quenelles or anything else use regular soup plates. ENTREES— Are generally served on six incn platters, but there are many exceptions to this rule. FISH — At breakfast, lunch and dinner should be served ou seven inch plates. APPETIZERS— Hors d'Oeuvres are served on five inch plates and are always garnished. MUTTON, TURKEY, VEAL AND PORK- -And all other boiled and roast meats should be served on a seven inch platter. ROAST BEEF— Should be served on an eight inch platter. SALADS — On five inch plates or dishes of fancy shapes purposely made to serve salads on. OYSTERS— On the shell are served in deep plates filled with fine cracked ice. CLAMS — On shell same as oysters. These suggestions are suitable if the Russian service is adopted, otherwise if the dinner or other meal is served family or French style, other rules dictated by circumstances must be followed. J456— NOTES ON TABLE ETI- QUETTE. Often I have been astonished to see persons who seemed to be the acme of refinement and elegance over-eating and drinking itiimoderately , and others who seemed to be every day, common sort of fellows display marked regard for osten- tation and ceremony. Modern hospi- tality should be remarkable for its simple elegance. Of course ceremonials vary at different entertainments, but in a general way I might say that it is customary to> have cards presented to each gentleman beai'ing the name of the lady whom he i;* to escort. This may save a great deal of embarrassment as it is not proper for a lad}' to enter th-e dining room alone, even though her neglect may result from an over.^ight. When dinner is announced the gentle- man should ()f?er his left arm and keep the lady nearest to the wall if it is possi- ble without too much display of eager- ness. Never precede a lady. I have ob- served that the most successful were those that never offered apologies for any little inconvenience, neglect or acci- dent that might have happened. It is indeed a difiicult task to do honors grace- fully, but simplicity, tact and composure are the keys to success. Gentlemen do not leave the dining room with the lady they have accompanied before dinner, but all remain standing until the last lady has disappeared be.'ore leaving the dining room. I 1 ave observed thqt a course is never called for the second time; to call for more is not strictly elegant. Usually the vegetables are taken to the mouth with a fork, and also as many dishes as possible. Natiirally peas, beans, curries, creams, ices, custards and delicate fanc}'- pastries are eaten with a spoon; not so for pie and melon which are always eaten with a fork. The daintiest eaters take frou', the side of the spoon and not from !.he end. It is per- fectly proper to pick a bone and to take corn in the fingers, but the utmost care should be taken against the soiling of the hands and mouth. The most refined eaters quietly ignore an}'- article found on the plate that might not be agreeable. When finished the knife and fork are quietly laid on the plate with the handles to the right, and the table left in as neat a iTianner as possible. I have observed that even the most gifted and brilliant conversationalists do not mouf«'polize the attention, so that everybody feels under obligation to contribute 10 the conversa- tion and congenialty of the table. I do not wish to pose as an authority on social matters, but these facts I have gleaned in i the exercise of my dut.es during my em- Proper Way to Set a Dinner Table. // // /^ /3 /2 // /^ 1. Pepper. 2. Salt. 3. Salted Almonds. 4. Butter DLsh, 5. Bon Bon Dish. 6. Water Glass. 7. Champagne Glas.s. 8. Port or Claret. g. Sauterne, or other light White Wine. 10. Oyster P'ork. 11. Hutter Knife. 12. Soup Spoon. 13-14. Knives. 15. Napkin and Guest Card. 16-17. Forks. The glasses may he arranged in a diiiferent manner if plenty of space can he given each guest, but they are handled with more ease when placed as shown in the above drawing. PRACTICAL AND ARTlvSTlC COOKERY. 247 ploy in the house of a nobleman who was himself a gentleman of exceptional elegance. .J457-NOTES ON PROVENANCE, SELECTION AND SERVICE OF WINES. The v/orld-famous chemist, Baron Liebig, says; "Wine as a restorative, as a means of refreshment when the powers of life ai-e exhausted, of giving anima- tion and energy where man has to strug- gle with days of trial and sorrow, as a means of correction and compensation where misproportion occurs iia restora- tion, and as a protection against tran- sient, organic disturbances, is surpassed by no product of nature or art." In treating this subject I will probably displease many who do not think that wine is a necessity or even are convinced that its use should be altogether abol- ished. My aim is to furnish those who are in the habit of using wine the neces- sary information in regard to its proper use, its selection and varieties, and all the information pertaining to the service of wine. I do not wish to influence or discuss the matter with pensons who are against its use altogether; but I have written this book to please the majority of the Bon Vivant, and as wines seem to go hand in hand with the highest social functions the world over, and further- more as the moderate use of wines is recognized as being beneficial by a ma- jority of the greatest physicians, its use will never be discarded. It is easily proven by statistics that in countries where pure wine is in daily use the per- centage of drunkenness is much less than in countries where strong alcoholic stimulants, stich as whiskies and bran- dies, are in popular favor. It has been my experience to observe more persons suffering from alcoholism in states where prohibition was in force. The product of the grape alone is a natural substance better fitted and suited for the human body than the enormous quantities of tea and coffee used the world over by prominent temperance advocates. In the Post Standard of Syracuse, N. Y., published October ist, 1900, I noticed with a good deal of satisfaction that Prof. W. O. Atwater conducted disinter- ested scientific experiments which had for its general conclusion that a mod- erate use of wine is a fuel adding energy to the human inachine. Wines are adulterated with such injur- ious substances as red coloring matters, alkalines, carbonates, sulphates of potash, copious additions of potato alcohol and man}' other .substances having a direct effect upon the nervous sj'stem, and which are likely responsible for all that has been said against wine. I was boni and brought up in a wine growing coun- try, and I must openly state that I have never seen bad effects from the moderate use of unadulterated wines. My only purpose in writing thus is to make ap- parent the evil caused by the making of adulterated wines. The proper service of wine is a study by itself. Connoisseurs will always speak of the bouquet of certain wines which they divide into two kinds — the general and the special. The general bouquet is that common to all good wine, which is produced by certain volatiles existing in the wines which are defined by chemists as oenanthic. The special exists only in certain kinds produced by grapes, such as Muscatel, Isabella and others which have been made from grapes purposely over-ripened. The bouquet in this case is produced by the essential oil occa- sioned by the over-ripeness of the fruit. Again a special bouquet might be occa- sioned b}' the age of the wood of which the casks are constructed. Unnatural bou- quets are produced by the use of fruit blossoms and other parts of certain plants, which, after having been sub- mitted to fermentation produce certain quantities of essential oil which is em- ployed in the produce of unnatural bouquet. Even the best connoisseur will not enjoy the same wine throughout a whole repast, as the palate becomes cloyed after the second glass or so, even when the best wines are used; that is where the tact and artistic discrimination of the host is put to the test and the beauty of a well chosen course is clearly demonstrated. The wines must be put on the table in such an order as to pro- 248 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. pluce for the diner's constant enjoyment to the point where necessity or luxury ends and abuse begins. I should recom- mend a selection of wine whose body and flavor will finely blend with what is to be served; for example, with fish and soup, sauterne or sherry, with roast use hock or clarets, with game, sparkling Burgund}' or champagne, the rest of the dinner between the game and confection- ery use sparkling wines and with the confectionery, Madeira. H58— CHAMPAGNE. The imported wines are classified by wholesale importers more upon the vint- age than the name however high sound- ing, especially in the case of stilled dry wines which acquire a greater value with every 3'ear. On the contrary with the effervescent wines produced in the prov- ince of Champagne they will not improve after the twelve years of their keeping but loose their effervescense. Champagne is said to have been discovered by a monk of the Abbey of Hautvillers, a vil- lage in the prefecture of Reims, about 200 years ago. His name was Father Perignon. He died in 1715. Efferves- cent champagne is made from the black grape almost identical with that from which red Burgundy is produced. When the time to gather the grapes has arrived the persons employed in gathering the grapes cut them with the utmost care, picking off all the unripe and inferior berries. The grapes are then pressed as soon as possible. The must is then placed in vats, remaining there not more than one day; after being allowed to clear it is drawn into barrels and is al- lowed to ferment and is not disturbed un- til the cold season, which is about Christ- mas time. The wine is then, or should be, clear and it is drawn from the lees, and carried to the cellars of the exporters or manufacturers where it is prepared to suit the demand of their trade. Different qualities of wine, such as that from the black grapes and the white grapes, is mixed in suitable proportions. The wine by this time contains carbonic g-'s and it is then that sugar is added, if the amount of saccharine is found deficient. If on the other hand the wine contains too nmch sugar the bottling is deferred until the natural process of fermentation has absorbed the excess of sugar. Previ- ous to the bottling the wine is clarified by means of gelatine and at this stage the expert wine maker exercises the greatest of care. The wine is then put into bot- tles of even thickness and perfectly round, for these bottles must be stout to stand the pressure of gas which is gene- rated during fermentation, which ensues after boiling. When the bottles are filled the)' are corked and an iron fastener made so as to be easily removed when the time comes to remove the sediment, an operation which is called disgorging. The bottles of wine are then placed in the cellar until after fermentation. After this fermentation has ceased the bottles are placed in an inclined position, which position causes the sediment t® settle down to the cork. When the proper time for disgorging has arrived the iron fastener is removed with the cork and the lump of yeast or sediment is expelled; the rising foam removes all the remain- ing impurities, and this is done with but little loss of wine. The bottles are then passed to the finishers who add what liqueur may be required if the wine is wanted otherwise than Brut; all is then ready for the bottles to be corked, handsomely wired and labeled. The wine prepared in the above manner without the addition of sugar is dry (Brut), that is to say, the taste of sugar is not perceptible. To produce wine that is sweeter to suit the taste of certain con- sumers the addition of liqueur is resorted to. This so called liqueur is a prepara- tion of old still wine and rock sugar. Sparkling wines, most in vogue in America, are the dry wines, and the3' certainly are in the author's estimation the best for table .u.se. Champagne might be classified in a general way in four dis- tinctive classes, namely: non-sparkling (non-mousseux); creaming (crement); sparkling (mousseux); grand-sparkling (grand mousseux). The non-mousseux (non-sparkling) is made as by the origi- nal methods of champagne making in the 17th century. It is not effervescent but is corked, tied and labeled in the PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 249 usual manner. The crement (creaming) is only possessed of a slight effervescense, and this develops very moderately when poured into the glass, forming a light foam on top of the champagne. It is pre- sumably called creaming on that account. Mousseux (sparkling) contains sufficient gas to project the cork and rise gently to the mouth of the bottle, but has not the impetus of the following. Grand mous- seux (grand sparkling) expels the cork with a resonant report and the wine generously overflows. Most of the bet- ter known brands of champagne are made in the province of Champagne. Most of the exporting houses are at Epernay Mareuil Rilly Ay Avize, but there are sparkling wines produced in other countries of Europe, America and Australia which are made according to the methods employed in the province of Champagne. Some of the American wines are very good and when the vine- yards have more age the wine will probably be as good as that made in the old vinevards of France. Here follows a list of the most popular wines. Of course it must be understood that the firms named are producing sev- eral grades. Some of these vary from I33 per dozen quarts to $65 . Perrier Jouet has a grand sec of 1880 which sells at ^65 per dozen quarts. Pommery & Greno and others have also wines of the vintage of 1880. Deutz & Gelderman have one of the vintage of r88o that sells for $66, and another dry that sells for I29.50, but all of the following firms are considered among the first-class export- ing houses: Deutz & Gelderman. Pommery & Greno. G. H. Mumm & Co. Perrier & Jouet. Moet & Chandon. Cliquot & Werle (formerly Veuve Cliquot). Louis Roeder. Ruinart Pere & Fils. Piper Heidsieck. Bertier & Co. Binet, Fils & Co. Other sparkling wines come from Bur- gundy in the south of France. The grapes there are so much sweeter than they are in the province of Champagne that no addition of liqueur or sugar is necessary. It contains a good deal more alcohol than the wines from the province of Champagne, it is darker in color and of a very fine flavor; it will lose its efifer- vescense quicker than the others. The sparkling wines of Germany, Hock & Moselle, are finding their way into popu- lar favor. In America we have the sparkling Catawba; the best known are the Great Western, Cook's Imperial, White Top and Gold Seal. The grapes from which these champagnes are made, namely, the Catawba, is an abundant and reliable variety of a dark purple color and medium size. The methods employed in making the sparkling wines in America are those employed in France in the province of Champagne. In most instances experts who have learned in the cellars and vineyards of the province of Champagne are imported, thus assur- ing a similarity of systems. The progress in the making of American wines during the last few years has been great. The old complaint of foxiness has almost completely disappeared and the wine is finding much favor. A perfect cham- pagne is of the color of straw. If it is yellow or possesses a pink tinge the wine is not perfect, as the pressing was done in such a way as to extract some of the coloring matter from the grapes. As I have said before, champagne and sparkl- ing wines if kept in a cool cellar will im- prove until the tenth or twelfth year, after which they will lose their effer- vescense. Champagnes are usually served in broad stem glasses and it is advocated by the fine connoi.sseur to use a long stem glass as it will maintain its effer- vescense in the glass longer. Dry wines may be chilled to 45 degrees Fahr. but not colder. The sweet champagne may be frappe, "frozen." Extra dr}' champagne contains less of the saccharine admixture than dry, and Brut should contain none whatever. 1459— BORDEAUX WINES. (Clarets). The finest red wines, or claret, are 250 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. grown in France in the environ of Bor- deaux in the department of Gironde. The still dry wines known as claret are principally exported from Bordeaux, and that is why it is generally called by the name of the port from which it is ex- ported. The grape which produces the finest claret is a small black fruit. The time for making the wine in the depart- ment of the Gironde is in August, that is when the season is exceptionally good, but it does not begin very often until September. The good wines are treated four years before they are bottled and are classified first according to vintage and next the names of the establishments on which they are grown. Here follows a list of the best Bordeaux: Chateau I^afite. " Margeaux. " Larose. " Montrose. Haut Bailly. " Mouton Rothschild. " Leoville I^ascases. " Ivamarque. ' ' Latour. " Rauzan. Haut Brion. H60— SAUTERNES. The fine white wines and graves are made from a white grape. The mode of making these wines differs somewhat from the red wines; in the first place the grapes are allowed to remain on the vines until thoroughly ripe, the berries only are then gathered and pressed; the over- ripeness of the grapes produces a very fine bouquet, especially noticeable in the wine produced from the first press. The most expensive and fashionable sau- ternes and graves are: Chateau Yquem. " Latour Blanche. " Suduirant. Haut Sauterne. Haut Barsac. Sauterne. Vin de Graves. H6 1— BURGUNDIES. The wines of Burgundy are both white and red, and are grown in the depart- ment of the Yonne and the Saone et Loire. Red Burgundies are the product of a black grape. The white is made from a variety of grape called Chardeney. The process of making wine is lil e that in the department of the Gironde. It is fermented in vats, drawn after a few days and the must pressed, the whole replaced in kegs for final fermentation, drawn about March, then drawn twice a year for about four years before it is ready for bottling. The soil on which the grapes used in the making of Bur- gundy wines are grown are hills of chalk, the vines are trained on sticks about 3^ feet long, and the fruit is gathered with the vitmost care. Burgundies are famous for their delicacy, piquancy and fra- grance, richness of flavor and well recog- nized medicinal properties. The white Burgundy is un.surpassed for dinner pur- poses and especially with the oysters. The sparkling is well worth the atten- tion of connoisseurs. Those better known are: RED. Chambertin. Musigny Vougeot. Clos Vougeot. Romance. Pommard. Beaune. WHITE. Chablis Moutonne. Meursault. Montrachet. Montrachet La Guichc. SPARKLING. Vol nay. Oeil de Perdrix. Grand Vin Rouge. Romance. Clos Vougeat. J462-RHINE WINES. The best Rhine wines are made in Germany in the district termed by the Germans as Rheingau, a region of the hills on the right bank of the Rhine about twenty-five miles in length and extending from Wolluf to Lorch. In the middle of this district is the famous Schloss Johannisberg, given by the em- peror of Austria to the late Prince Met- PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 251 ternich. In the Rheingau are produced, among other wines, the celebrated Rude- sheimer. Marcobrunner and Hoch- heimer, from the latter of which the English word hock is derived. Nier- steiner and other well known wines are grown on the left bank of the Rhine. All Rhine wines have marked chemical char- acteristics ;they contain but little sugar,and the proportion of alcohol rarely exceeds twelve parts in a hundred, hence their ver}' great value medicinally, especially with those who are troubled with gout The sparkling wines of the Rhine are comparatively of recent date. Their process of manufacture resembles that of champagne. Some of the best brands are: Schloss Johannisberger Cabinet, Blue Seal. Hockheimer. Marcobrunner Cabinet. Sparkling Johannisberger, Brut. J463— MOSELLE WINE. Moselle wines are light and probably are not as rich as the Rhine wines, but they are very wholesome and almost equal to Burgundy with fish and oysters. The wine produced on the banks of the Moselle were famous before those of the Rhine had gained any celebrity. The best are grown on the lower Moselle between Treves and Coblentz. It is a very bright wine and should have a greenish yellow color, decided muscatel flavor and pleasant aroma. It is one of the most wholesome wines, for it is cool and dry, refreshing without unduly heating the system. Sparkling Moselle has of late years come very much into favor. Piesporter. Josephshofer Auslese. Graacher Hemmelrich. Brauneberger. Sparkling Scharzhofberger. Moselle. 1464— MADEIRA. The Portuguese word Madeira means wood and the name was given to the island of Madeira when first discovered on account of its being covered with a dense forest. The culture of the grape commenced on the island of Madeira early in the fifteenth century. The vines are trailed on a frame work of cane and grow in ashy soil, the island being volcanic. Madeira wine is very rich, full body and aromatic A voyage to the East or West Indias improves its condition in a wondrous degree. In the following list you will notice one desig- nated as V. O. vintage of 1817, once owned by Captain Payne, of Charleston, S. C, and now the property of H. V. Bemis, who is probably the be.st connois- seur and most learned man in matter pertaining to the se'ection of wines. According to Mr. Bemis this wine is the last lot of old Madeira of the famous vintage of 1850; in 1851 the wine blight (Oidium Tuckeri) broke out on the island and occasioned in 1852 the loss of two hundred thousand pounds sterling. Captain Payne was once the owner of the parcicular lot and had it over three years on board ship on the African coast. At his death he left thirteen casks of this wine to his daughter, Mrs. Wheat, who had the wine taken to New Orleans for sale, where it was disposed of to sev- eral prominent gentlemen. All that is left of this famous wine is in the Richeileu cel- lar in Chicago. The person who once owned this wine claims to trace its origin to the vintage of 1817. V. O. Madeira, Vintage of 1817. Malmsey. Sercial Dry. Old Bual. Malvasia. Imperial Reserve. t465— SHERRY. The word sherry is of Spanish origin and is derived from the town of Xeres de la Frontera in Andalusia. Amontilla is in the province of Cordova and produces by far the best quality of wine. Pemartin Leviathan. Amontillado. Pale Sherry. Topaz. Aloroso. .^ 1466— PORT WINE. In the following list I will call atten- tion to old crusted port of 1842 which Mr. 252 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Beniis, proprietor of the Richelieu wine cellar in Chicago, has for sale, and which he obtained from the cellar of a gentle- man in London, England. It was bot- tled in 1854 and the price should warrant a delicate silky flavor, the full maturity developing characteristics to which age has given perfection. Old Crusted Port 1842. London Dock. Old Tawney. Sandeman's. Commendador. H67— WINES FOR A COURSE DINNER. What the author considers the proper way to arrange the service of wine for a course dinner. WINES. Graves, Sauterne, Haul Barsac, etc. Amontillado, Pale Sherry, Chateau Yquem, C h a b 1 i s, etc. Clarets, Chateau Lafite, Chateau Margeau, Latour, etc. Champagne, Brut, or Sparkling Bur- gundy. Old Madeira. MENU. Oj'sters or Clams. Soup. Fish. Roast. Entrees. Game and Salads. Dessert. 1468— COGNAC. Brandies. Brandies are distilled from wine. The larger proportion is produced in France. In.mense vineyards are cultivated; the product of which is converted into brandy. When brandy is first made it has but very little color, but with age it darkens and assumes a pleasant taste. The strength of good brandy is from no to 130. The best brandies are: James Hennessey & Co. i, 2 and 3 stars. Otard Dupuy & Co. Denis Mounier & Co. J. & F. Martel. Renault & Co. Evariste, Dupont & Co. Jule Robin. Barton Guestier. J469— LIQUEURS AND CORDIALS. Liqueurs and cordials are made with various aromatic herbs, also fruit pulp macerated with sugar, alcohol and water until thoroughly digested, then distilled and rectified, the product treated with syrup and spirits, coloring, etc. Here follows a list of the most fashionable and best known: French Vermouth. Italian Vermouth. Absinth, White. Creme de Menthe, Peppermint, White. Creme de Menthe, Glaciale, Pepper- mint, Green. Marasquin. Kirsch. Kummel Sec, Crystalise. Dantzich Eau de Vie. Anisette, White. Prunelle. Curacoa, White and Orange. Creme de Cacao, Chouva. Creme de Moka. Creme de Vanilla. Creme Angelique. Creuie de Genievre. Creme de Noyau. Creme de Roses. Creme de Cassis. Cherry Cordial. Abricotine. Liqueur d' Or. Green Chartreuse, Yellow Chartreuse, the only genuine is from the Monastery. Benedictine. Pepsin Cordial. Parfait Amour. Trappistine. 1470— EGG LEMONADE. 4 qts. of water. I ^2 lbs. of sugar. I doz. lemons. I large orange. 5 whites of eggs. Finely cracked ice. PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 253 Grate the rind of five lemons and the rind of the orange into a large bowl, more or less of the rind may be used according to the size and ripeness of the fruit. Scrape off the grated rind that adhers to the grater. Put a little sugar in the bowl and rub the zest and sugar together with the back of a spoon, squeeze in the juice of all the fruit; add the sugar and part of the water and the whites of eggs and beat the mixture until the sugar is dissolved. Put in the rest of the water and strain the lemonade into another vessel containing ice. When it is to be served fill a glass three parts full, place a shaker over the glass, or invert another on top, the rims close together, and shake up to produce the foam. I471-CIDER PUNCH. I bottle of champagne cider. I cup of sugar. 1 cup of sherry. 2 lemons. %. cup of water. Mix the sugar; water and wine to- gether in a pitcher and stir until the sugar is dissolved, slice in the lemons as for lemonade, put in a lump of ice and then pour in the cider. H72— GINGER POP. 2 gallons of water. 2 ozs, of raw ginger, pounded. 2 lemons. 4 level cupfuls of sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. I yeast cake dissolved in a half cup of water. Shave of the thin yellow rind of the lemon into a pail, squeeze in the juice. add the sugar, ginger and cream of tar- tar, boil the water and pour it over; when cold enough add the yeast, cover with a cloth and let ferment two days; strain off, bottle it and tie down the corks. J473— SODA MEAD, 4 lbs. of honey. 1 tablespoonful of powdered gum arable. 2 ozs. of whole spices, cloves, cinna- mon, ginger and coriander seeds. I qt. of water. Make a syrup of the ingredients by boiling the spices in the water about half an hour; strain into another kettle, put in the hone)', boil up and skim; dissolve the gum in it and use about a gill to each glass of soda water. 1474 -CLARET CUP. I bottle of claret. 1 bottle soda water. yi. cup of Sherry. Peel of a Lemon. 8 ozs. of sugar. 2 slices of pineapple. Ice. Grate the lemon rind and rub it in the sugar with a few spoonfuls of water. Add the wine and pineapple, also the grated rind when the sugar is dissolved; strain and add the ice and soda water. 1475— CATAWBA CUP. 1 bottle of dr}' Catawba. 2 bottles of soda water. yi tumbler of curacoa. Mix in a pitcher with plenty of ice, sugar and water; may be used instead of soda water. INDEX. (Numbers refer to the recipe, not to the page. Almond Blanc Mange 1096 Almond Paste 1201 Almondigillas 814 Anchov}- 131 " Canapes 132 Salad 561 " Tartines 750 Antelope 258 Fillet au Champignon 259 Steak Saute 476 Appetizers 475 Arlets au Saucissons 753 Beurrees de Caviare 749 Cantaloupe with Salt 755 Croutes au Anchovies 748 Croustades au Salpicon 758 Eggs Stuffed with Anchovies... 756 Foies Gras de Poulets 759 Papillottes of Potted Tongue... 754 Petit Cauapes de Sardines 747 Salad d'Aniandes au Caviare... 757 Sardines au Parmesan 746 Stuffed Olives 752 Tartines d'Anchois 750 Apple Sauce for Meats 407 " Cake 1158 " Cream Cake 1175 " Cream 958 " Cobbler.. 665 " Crisped iiio " Fritters 507 " Salad 549 " Shortcake 1243 " Snow HOC " Turnovers 945 Apricot a la Regence 603 Jam 977 Arlet au Saucissons 753 Artichokes and Gravy 474 Aromatic Salt No. i 711 " " No. 2 712 Asparagus Stuffed 821 ' ' Tips on Toast 604 " with Parmesan 781 Aspic Jelly 710 No. Backbone Stew, Fgg Dumpling 477 Bacon and Liver 419 " Sauerkraut 417 " Spinach 414 Bananas, Baked 1109 " Compote of 608 " Fritters 605 Baking Powder 873 " " Biscuits 874 " Temperature 1251 Barsch 794 Bass, Broiled 69 " Fried with Salt Pork 70 Batter Fritters 1247 " Finest Fr3nng 209 " Common Frj'ing 1246 Bavarian Cream page 179 Bear ..* 262 Beans and Baked Pork 615 " Boston Baked 616 " Butter, Stewed 673 " Cold String 688 " Dried Lima 689 '' String.. 698 Bechamel Sauce 137 Beef. A la Bretone 478 A la Creole 650 Au Petit Pois 618 Boiled with Horseradish 372 " Stuffed Flank of 371 Braised Tenderloin of 482 Broiled Steak and Gravy 377 Chipped and Cream 617 Chipped in Butter 483 Corned Beef 375 E.scalopes 487 Etouflfe de Boeuf au Legumes.. 609 Porterhouse Steak 378 Potted Steak 607 Roast 365 " Rib Ends of 368 " Flank 369 " Fland, Stuffed 370 " Well Done 367 2S6 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Beef, Round, Cold Boiled.. 734 Rump Steak with Mushrooms. 432 Salt 373 Spiced Roll 735 Steak a la Diable ( Deviled ) 384 " a I'Espagnole 383 *' a I'Hoteliere 380 " a la Toulouse 381 " aux Onions 386 " Hamburgh 389 " with Fr. Fried Potatoes. 379 " with Mushrooms 382 " with Oysters 388 " Spaghetti „ 387 " with Tomatoes. „ 385 Stew 500 Tough Steak 390 Stuffed Flank of 370 Tenderloin Larded with Mush.. 495 Beets, Cold 708 " Greens 683 " Salad 546 Biscuits, Baking Powder 874 " Beaten 896 " Graham 878 Bisque, Almond 1280 " Ginger 1274 " Pineapple 1275 Blanc Manges 1091 " Almond 1096 " Gelatine 1094 " Neapolitan 1095 Blue Fish, Baked a la Mauvillier... 85 " Baked,StuffedalaCreole 86 " Broiled 88 Boars Head, Hamb'h Style( Dutch) 766 Boned Chicken 731 " Turkey 727 Bordelais Sauce 138 Brandy 1468 Brains a la Vinaigrette 626 Bread page 131 Brown Raised 851 Baking Powder 875 Corn Cake, Hot 885 " Ordinar)^ 902 " Southern 901 Dough, Ordinary 827 Finest 835 Finest Rusk 847 French Loaves 833 Ginger Without Eggs 884, 1237 Graham 831 Loaves, Ordinary 830 Bread, Milk Raised Brown " Ginger Rye Sally Lunn Steamed Brown Sweet Rusk... Vienna Bread Fritters Bread Sauce Broiling Meats Brook Trout Brown Gravy , Brussel Sprouts Buffalo , Buns, Currant. " Hot ' ' Ordinary, or Butter Rusk. Butter, Lemon " Orange " Sauce, No. i " No. 2 Cabbage and Celer}' Salad Creamed Fried Shredded with Mayonnaise.. Cakes. Angel Food Almond Drops Almond Aniseed Rusk Austrian Banaua Chocolate " Baisees " Cream Drops Citron , Cocoanut Drops Cream Drops Dream Deli cate Fruit No. I " No. 2 " Royal English " No. 4 Genoese Hickory Nut Jelly Drops " White " Glazed Jelly " Roll " " No. 2 850 851 852 836 842 886 848 838 5" 441 37& 95 426 672 261 845 844 843 971 97& 125 126 557 693. 694 551 1 134 1 188 1142 1179 1200 1 145 1 168 1 138 1 194 1 198 115 1 187 1 196 1 155 1 140 1159 1160 1161 1 162 1171 1 143 1 185 1 185 1 1 86 1 167 1157 1 176 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 257 Cakes. Lady 1141 " Fingers 1183 " " Bakers 1182 Lafayette 1154 Macaroon 1176 Marble 1146 Marion 1181 Motsa 792 Neapol i tan 1172 Ordinary 1147 Othellos 1 195 Pistachio 1164 Polish 795 Pound 1 149 " Fruit 1150 " Small 1152 " Ivayer 1153 Queen 1156 Raised Cake. Almond 858 Caraway ;.. 859 Coffee Cake 853 Fruit §62 German Puffs 846 Kaiijlauff 864 Plam 861 Plum 863 Saffron 860 Sweet Dumplings 865 Tea Cake Raisin, White Savoy, Small Spice Sponge Sponge, No. 2 Sponge Drops, Small.... Sponge Drops, Glazed.. Spring Lake Gems Snow Snow Balls Sunshine Tiger Twin Angel Twin Gold Walnut Water Sponge Wine White White Jelly Roll White Jelly ., White Mountain Gems . Wine Rusk .... 854 .... 1180 .... 1189 .... 1173 •..• 1135 .... 1174 ... 1184 .... 1197 .... 1191 .... 1137 .... 1193 .... 1177 .... 1178 ... 1165 ... 1166 ... 1 169 ... 1163 ... 1139 ... 1144 ... 1136 ... 1148 ... 1190 ... 1199 Calf's Brains Fried with Olives 480 Calf's Brains Patties Head Breaded, Tartare Sauce.. Head in Omelet Head, Turtle Style Liver a la Roberts Liver Broiled Liver Broiled, Tomato Sauce... Liver en Croustades Liver, Prince Palermo Candy. Notes on making page Almond " Anothe Way Bar Apricot Chocolate " Comfits " Jellies Baskets Bon Bons " " Cocoanut 'i " Moca " " Vanilla Cream Brazil Bar Candied Ni-ts Caramels, Maple Sugar " Vanilla Chocolate Cream Candy Bon Bons Cream Drops No. i.. " " No. 2.. " Best... Dominoes Candy to Pull ... Cream Bar Cocoanut Bar " Chocolate Drops Cream Candy , Crystalliza';ion .., Date Creams Drops, Cough " Lemon " Mint " Wintergreen Everton Taffy Fig Creams French Creams Fondant ®r Cream Gum Drops Honey Nougat Horehound Hungarian Chocolate Loaf Lemon Cream Marshmallows No 490 479 502 638 486 420 421 627 780 223 1400 1403 1383 1369 1368 1367 1391 1361 1364 1365 1362 1384 1397 1380 1379 1378 1359 1349 1350 135 i 1352 1353 1354 1355 1385 1356 1376 1.363 1373 1389 1390 1387 1388 1404 1374 1375 1348 1407 1370 1399 1360 1394 1358 258 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Candy. Manshmallows, Chocolate 1357 Molasses 1405 " No. 2 1406 Neapolitan Cream Bars 1386 Peanut 1402 Peanut Bar 1381 Popcorn Balls 1408 Rock 1398 Rose Cream 1393 Stick 1395 Strawberry Cream 1377 Transparent Stick 1396 Toys 1392 Tutti Frutti 1371 Walnut Bar 1382 " Creams 1372 Water Iced Confections 1366 White Sugar, to Pull 1401 Cantaloupe witn Salt 755 Caper Sauce 393 Capons, Roasted 428 Carrots, Brown 680 Fried 68r Stewed 682 Catawba Cup 1475 Catfish 71 Cauliflower Salad 545 Caviare 714 " Beurrees de 749 Celery a laCreme.... 503 " and Cheese, Baked 498 " Salad 543 " Sauce, White 139 " to Curl 703 Charlotte. Apple 1 1 17 Hungarian 1116 Individual 1115 Parisienne 1124 Strawberry 1118 Charlotte Russe 1122 " Individual 1123 Cheese and Celery Baked 498 " Fondu 636 " Omelet 455 " Rolls 1245 " Cakes 1231 " Ramequins 1230 Chestnuts, Puree of 362 " Sauce 361 " Stuffing for Turkeys and Chickens 359 Chicken, a la Bechamel 303 Chicken, a la Marengo 325 " a la Sicilienne (Italian).. 776 " Boiled with Salt Pork 314 " " auxOeufs( egg sc) 317 " Boned 731 " Braised 323 " Breast a la Castelane 328 " Broiled . 302 " Brott au Legumes 304 " Canelons 312 " Croquettes 310 " " alaParisien'e 311 Curry 334 " Cutlets, a la Jardiniere... 318 " " Clarendon 308 " " Tomato Sauce... 337 " Fillets 326 " p-illet a la Regence 329 " Fillets aux Asperges 327 " Fillet, Paunceforte 335 " Fricassee, Frency St3'le.. 300 " Fried, Lyonaise 332 " Fricasseed with Mush 333 " How to Ma^-e Tender 342 " In Tartare 331 " Liver in Croustades 313 " " Omelet 461 " Maryland Style 316 " Mayonnaise of 726 " Patties No. r 321 " " No. 2 322 Pie 305 " " Brunoise 306 " " Plain 307 " Pot Pie 301 " Poulets au Truffles 724 " Potage, a la Richelieu ... 441 ' ' Puree for the Sick 340 " Ragout of Chicken Gib.. 309 " Roast, 299 " , Stuffed 319 Salad 537 " Saute, a I'ltalienne 315 " Saute aux Haricots 336 " Souffle in Cases 338 " Supreme, a I'Ecarlate ... 330 " with Tomato Sauce 324 Chinese Cookery 761 Chocolate 1259 Cierniki 797 Cider Punch 1471 Clam. Chowder No. i 53 No. 2 54 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Clara. Chowder, Coney Island Style... 237 Cocktail 241 en Canape 239 On the Half Shell 236 Patties 242 Scalloped on Shells 240 Soft Shell, Fried 238 Claret Cup 1474 Cloth for Galantine 719 Cockles 243 Cod Baked Stuffed 72 " Boiled, Egg Sauce 74 " Fried 73 Codfish Balls 121 " Fried in Olive Oil 774 " In Cream 122 " Salad 562 Coffee 1254 " French 1255 " Ordinary 1256 " " Another Way 1257 Cordials 1469 Corn Cake, Hot 8S5 Cold Dishes page 106 Coloring 7 Cookies, No. 2 1234 ' ' Ordinary 1 233 " No. 3, Best 1235 Coon 260 Conserves page 159 ' ' Almond 968 ' ' Florida 969 " Lemon 967 " Pineapple 970 Corn, Hulled 505 " Pudding, Fresh 679 " Roasted 676 ' ' and Tomatoes 677 " Custard Steamed 499 " Bread, Southern 901 " " Ordinary 902 ' ' Gems 904 ' ' Hoe Cakes 903 " Mush 898 Corned Beef, How to Make 375 " " in Jelly 732 " " " Another Way 733 " " Boiled and Cabbage. 422 " " Hash 634 " " Stewed 635 Tongue 443 Cotelette d'Agneau au Legumee . . 501 Crabs 181 Crabs. a la Vinaigrette Deviled How to Boil In Cases On Toast Soft Shell, Boiled " Fried Salad Creams. Bavarian Plain " with Fruit , " Maraschino ' ' Rose ' ' Strawberry " Chocolate , ' ' Pistachio Cream Fritters Rolls ' ' Sauce " Italienne Crepinettes , Croaker " in Batter Croquettes Piemontaise (Italian), Crosnes Croustades au Salpicon Croutes au Anchois , Crullers ' ' Sour Cream Cucumbers , Salad Custards. Caramel Chocolate Cocoanut, Baked Grape Pineapple Plain Dolmas • Doughnuts Raised, No. i " " No. 2 No. 3 " Sour Cream Dressing, Onion Duck, Wild ' ' Canvass Back ' ' Common Wild ' ' Domestic " Mallard, Roast Saute of, with Truffles " Teal Ducklings with Green Peas 259 No. 185 186 182 187 188 183 184 563 1 106 1 105 1 104 II2I 1 107 III9 1 120 508 954 140 1 108 612 75 625 775 787 758 748 895 894 706 548 1063 1062 IIOI 1066 I065 1064 822 895 855 856 857 894 272 269 270 274 354 271 356 273 355 26o PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. No. Eclairs, aiix Amandes 1226 " Cocoanut 1225 " Fruit 1227 Eggs. au Fromage 465 Boiled 445 Buttered 449 Breaded 469 Deviled 470 Fried 444 Poached, a la Chinoise 468 " ill Gravy 472 " or Dropped 446 Salad 541 Sauce 146 Scrambled, Country Style . . . 447 Hotel Style 448! ' ' with Asparagus . . . 467 I " " Tomatoes. . . . 471 Shirred 450 Stuffed with Anchovies 756 j Cold 466] Egg Lemonade 1470 Egg-plant, Fried 700 [ Stewed 658 Eldorados 952 Elk 256 " a la Polonaise 257 Emergency Salad 540 Endive Salad 535 English and French Cookery 763 Entrees P^ige 69 Escalopes de Boeuf en Demi Glace 487 Espagnole 427 Farina Cakes with Jam 597 Fillings. Cheese Puff 962 Cocoanut 976 Currant Cream 979 Lemon for Pies and Tarts 972 Nut 980 Orange 973 Pineapple Cream for 975 Fish. A la Bechamel 100 A la Boulangere 113! A la Cardinal 103 } A la Chamford 104 1 A la Clievaliere 109 A rindienne 108 A ritalienne 107 A la Joinville 110 A la Lyonnaise 116 A la Maitre d'Hotel 102 No. Fish. A la Morny 105 Anchovy 131 ' ' Canapes of 132 A la Presidence in A la Russe 112 A la Tartar 106 Au Gratin 1 14 Au Gratin 594 Baked Stuffed 120 Bass, Broiled 69 " Fried with Salt Pork 70 Bluefish, Baked a la Mauvillier 85 " Stuffed, Creole. 86 Broiled 88 Breaded with Motsa 790 Brook Trout 95 Caliish 71 Cod, Baked Stuffed 72 '• Boiled, Egg Sauce 74 ': Fried 73 Codfish Balls 121 ' ' in Cream 122 Croaker 75 " in Batter 625 En Bellevue loi Halibut, Sauce Doree 76 " a la Maryland 77 " Broiled 78 In Aspic 1445 Lake Trout, Baked 79 Fried 80 Mackerel, Broiled 8^ Salt, Boiled 118 " " Broiled 119 Mackinaw Trout S3 Muscallonge, Boiled 84 Pan Fish Fried 89 Perch, Fried '. 90 " Souchy 91 Pickerel, Broiled 92 Pike a la Venitienne 93 Salad 536 Salmon, Kippered or Smoked. 117 Salmon Trout 81 Salt Fish 1 23 Scalloped 115 Shad Roe, Fried 127 " Scrambled 128 Sole Fillets 94 Whilefish a I'Espagnole 98 " Baked Stuffed 99 " Boiled, Caper Sauce. 96 " Broiled 97 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 261 No. Flannel Cakes 869 Flavored Vinegars 525 Floating Island 1097 Foies Gras en Jelly 716 " de Poulet 759 Fowls, Cutting Up 297 " To Truss Any Kind 298 " Patties rimperial 339 French and English Cookery 763 ■*' Salad Dressing 521 Friars Omelet 1114 Fritters. App'e 507 Banana 605 Batter 1247 Bread 511 Cloche 510 Cream 508 Farina 666 Orange 509 Parsnip 590 Peach 513 Pineapple 514 Plain 517 " No. 2 664 Shell 516 Spanish 515 Vanilla Puff 639 Frog Leg Salad 558 Frozen Fruit in Creams and Ices... 1266 Game 244 " Kromeskies 655 " Sauce 652 " Soup 55 Gal a tines. Another Wa^' 729 Cloth for 719 De Becassines 717 Decorated 1444 Pigs Head 737 De Poulet 713 Garnishing 575 Gaspasch io 813 Geese, Wild 274 Gelatine Blanc Mange 1094 Gems, Scotch 883 " Corn 904 German Puffs S46 German Salad Dressing 524 Giblets in Shells 645 " Sauce 277 Ginger Pop 1472 Ginger Bread 1236 " Snaps, Curled 123S No. Ginger Snaps, No. i 1239 '" " No. 2 1240 Glazing of Meat 722 Goose. Boiled with Baked Apples 358 Domestic Roasted 357 Galantine of 715 Roast Green (Young Goose)... 363 Stuffed with Potatoes 364 Wild, Roasted 276 " " Stuffed 275 Gravy, Brown 426 Griddle Cakes. Bread 890 Buckwheat 871 Corn 893 Graham 870 " Bicad 891 Rice 892 Grouse 289 '* a la Chasseur 290 " Salmi of 648 Hachimono "Japanese" 785 Halibut a la Maryland 77 Broiled 78 '* Sauce Doree 76 Ham. Boiled 409 Deviled 596 " with Sweet Potatoes.... 613 Eggs and 464 Minced on Toast 630 Omelet 454 " Champagne Sauce 413 Salad 569 Roast 411 " an Parmesan 434 " au vin Madere 412 To Cure 424 Haggis Scotch 818 Hamburgh Salad 571 Hash, Corned Beef ., 634 Heart, Boiled Ox, Tomato Sauce... 415 Head Cheese 720 Hollandaise Ssuce 130 " " No. 2 133 Hominy, Fried 686 Hors D'Oeuvres 745 How to Make Corned Beef 375 How to Make Stock for Soups, page I Hulled Corn 505 Ice Cream. Notes on 1260 Almond 1280 262 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. No. Ice Cream. Artificial Cream...... , 1261 " " No. I 1262 " " No. 2 1263 " " No. 3 1264 Brown Bread..... 1285 Cave 1347 Chocolate 1269 Cocoanut 1276 Coffee 1270 Combination No. i 1298 " No. 2 1299 " No. 3 1300 " No. 4 1301 " No. 5 1302 " No. 6 1303 " No. 7 1304 Corn Starch 1278 Curacoa 1281 Frozen Fruits 1286 Frozen Fruits in Creams, Ices.. 1266 Gelatine lo Ornament 1296 Ginger Bisque... 1274 Hickory Nut. 1279 Iced Cups 1297 Maraschino 1282 Neapolitan 1292 Ornamental 1295 Orange Flower 1288 Peach 1290 Pecan 1273 Pineapple 1275 Pistachio 1277 Plum 1283 Rose 1272 Shredded Wheat 1287 Strawberry 1271 Tea 1289 Tutti Frutti 1294 Vanilla 1267 Vienna Cakes 1293 Violet 1284 White Cherry 1268 Ices. Apricot 1330 Currant 1333 Concord Grape 1329 Grape 1328 Havana 1325 Orange 1326 Orange and Cocoanut 1336 Peach 1327 Pineapple 1334 Raspberry 1337 Ices. Red Cherry 1331? Strawberry 1332 Diplomatic Pudding... 1314- Custard 1316-- Fig Pudding. 1315 Ice Box or Cave 1347 Mousses 1305. " Chocolate .„ 1311 " Coffee i3o8> " Lemon 1310 " Peach 1312 " Strawberry 1307 " Vanilla 1309' " Violet 1306 Nesselrode Pudding.. 1313 Punch a la Regence 1346 " a la Richelieu„ 1335 " a la Russe 1340 *^' Angelica 1342" " Geneva I344 " Imperial 1341 " Kirschwasser... 1345 " Roman 1338 " Strawberry 1330 " Spongada or Ice Sponge 1291 " Victoria 1343 Rice Custard 131S Sago Custard 1319 Sherbet. Apple 133^ Florentine 1324 Lemon 132a Parisian 1321 Pineapple 1323 Turkish 819 Tapioca Custard 1317 Icing and Frosting for Cakes. Almond 1410 Cocoanut _ 141 1 F'rench Liqueurs 1412 Glace, Boiled Chocolate 1417 " " Rose 1416 " " Yellow 1414 " " White 1415 Pearl Glaze for Sponge Cake and Angel Food.„ 1413 Royal _ 1409 Irish Stew.„ 642 Italienne Sauce 653 Jambalaya 760 Japanese C'okery 784 Salad 786 Jelly Aspic 710 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 263 Jellies page 179 Champagne 1128 Corn Starch 1092 Cranberry 43 1 Grapes in 1441 Macedoine of Fruit 1439 Neapolitan 1443 Orange — 1 132 Russian 1 130 Soda Water 1131 Stock 1 1 27 Tapioca 1093 Turkish 1442 Various Fruit 1133 "Wine T129 Jewish Cookery . 788 Jnoguis 770 Jumbles , 1232 Kisses 1205-1206 Kidneys Broiled. 435 " Minced 601 " Omelet., 460 ' ' Saute 643 Kohl Rabi 687 Kromeskies 654 " Game 687 Kwas Kwas 796 Lake Trout, Baked 79 Fried 80 Lamb, Cutlets 400 agneau aux Haricots Vert . 661 Blanquette of 481 Breast of, Stewed with Du. 619 Chops au Petit Pois 398 Cotelettes d'Agnean au Legumes 501 Epigram of, with TomatoSa. 595 Fries 600 Heart, a I'Ecossaisc 586 Roast 397 Stewed with Potatoes 644 Tongue with Brus'l Sprouts 587 " " Artichokes .. 649 Lemonade Egg 1470 Lemon Butter 971 ' ' Snow 1098 Lettuce Salad 552 Liqueurs 1469 Liver and Bacon 419 " Broiled Calf's 420 " Calf's a la Roberts 486 Lobsters 163 Broiled Live 165 Canned a la Vinaigrette 169 No. Lobsters. Croquettes 167 Cutlets .. 166 Deviled 173 En Canape •. . . 170 How to Boil r6l In Shell 168 Patties , 171 Salad 568 Sauce 143 Scalloped 172 " en Coquille ■ 176 Macaroni and Cheese 574 " a la Francaise 575 " a I'ltalienne 576 " a la Genoise 628 "' Timbalesdemacau Truf. 641 " with Neufchatel. 629 Macaroons. Almond Paste for 120I Almond Ring 1204 I'ocoanut 1202 Ordinar}' 1203 Mackerel, Broiled 82 " Salt, Boiled 118 " '* Broiled 1 19 Mayonaise 5 19 Green, for oyster sal. or orna. 522 Thin 520 Measure and Weight 1252 Meats. Broiling, 376 Glazing of 722 Unnecessary Buning of 374 Meringue, for Pies 944 " a la Ro.se 12 13 " Almond 1214 " " Iceberg 1192 " " Puff 1207 " Blackberry 1218 " Cream 1209 " " No. 2 1210 " " No. 3 1211 " Chocolate 1212,1215 " Florentine 1216 " Genoese 1221 " Paste 1208 " Peach 1219 " Pineapple 1220 " Strawberry 1217 Mexican Tortillas 793 Mincemeat, Best 963 ' ' Cheap 965 " " No. 2 966 264 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Mincement Standard Mint Sauce Montecaclos Mousse de Fruit Muffins Raised , Corn Graham Raised. Raised Egj? Wheat Mush, Corn " Fried " " Pone Mushrooms Stewed, on Toast. " au vin Mussels " Stewed Mustard Sauce Mutton Chops, Broiled " " English " " Family Dish " " Tomato Sauce .... " Irish Stew " Leg of, Boiled, Caper Sa. ' ' Roast " Saddle, Stuffed Neapolitan Blanc Mange Nalenikis Nasturtium Vinegar New England Boiled Dinner Olive Oil Olives Stuffed Omelet a I'Espagnole " Cheese " Chicken Liver Friars " Ham Jelly " Kidney " Onion " Oyster ' ' Parsley Plain " Rum " Shrimp Souffle ' ' Tomato Onions, Dressing " Omelet " Stuffed Opossum " Roast with Sweet Potatoes Orange Butter No. 964 408 817 1099 849 881 882 850 8S0 872 879 900 588 631 632 633 439 399 394 396 395 642 392 391 589 1095 798 528 425 744 752 462 455 461 1 1 14 454 45S 460 453 456 452 451 457 473 463 459 272 453 475 254' 255 i 978 I Orange Fritters 509 Orange Salad 550 Ornamental Cookery. Almond, Colonade of 143& An Easy and Handsome De- sign 1429 Bag and Tubes or Metallic Syringe. 1419 Baskets, to Make 1426 Border Ornament, Raised .... 1427 " " Another Way 1428 Cake Decorated with Almonds or Frviit 1435 Cake Decorated with Walnuts and Candied Orange 1434 Cake Decorated with Rock Candy 1435 Cake Mounted with Crj^stal- lized Grapes 1436 Colors of Cakes 1431 Fish in Aspic Jelly 1445 Flowers in Icing, How to Make 1422 Form of Cakes 1430 Frills and Rosettes, Paper .... 145 1 Galantine, a Royal 1444 Geneva Lake 1440 Gigantic Egg, to Make 1447 How to Decorate Cake 1425 Icing for Ornamentation 1421 Lettering 1423 Macedoine of Fruit ^439 Ornaments Easily Bought 1424 Paper Cases, Individual 1352 Paper Decorations 1432 Piping 1418 " on Net 1410 Shrimps in Aspic 1446 Toys and Ornaments Moulded. 1437 Ox Heart Boiled, Tomato Sauce. . . 415 Ox Tongue 423 " Hollandaise 611 Oyster Plant Salad 572 Oysters a la Bismarck 228 " a la Humbert 234 " a I'ltalienne 210 " a la Marlboroxigh 200 " a la Russe 208 " a la Tartare 226 " Bisque, Brown 222 ' ' Broiled 197 " " in the SLell 227 " vStuffed 19S " Cocktail No. i 190 '• " No. 2 191 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 265 Oysters, Creamed on Toast ' ' Croquettes " Croustade Deviled " en Aspic '■ en Brochette " en Corbeille " en Papillotte " Finest Frying Batter ' ' Fricasseed " Fried " " Cheaper Way " " Double Breaded .... " '• in Butter " Fritters " In Cases Mock ' ' Omelet On the Half Shell Patties Pie " " Individual Pot Pie " Roasted, Rochelle Stj-le... " Salad " Sauce, White " Scalloped, Fancy " " Individual dsh. In Silver Shells On the Hf. Shi. " Large Pan ' ' Steamed " Stew, Box " Coast " Milk " Plain " Stuffing for Fowls Truffled " Veal and Oyster Pie " Vol an Vent Pancakes, French " French au Confitures ... " German Parsley, Fried ' ' Omelet " Sauce Parsnip Fritters Partridge, a la Berlinoise " Ballotines " Broiled " Escabescia of Roast Souffle of WithCabba.e No. 233 231 207 230 229 213 225 209 232 201 203 202 219 204 206 504 211 189 212 214 216 205 567 224 I 217 220 218 221 196 192 195 193 194 440 223 593 235 907 598 905 433 452 142 590 293 295 2yl 816 294 296 292 No. Pastry. Puff Paste " " French " "of Suet Pie Pa^te, Main Plain Short Paste for lings and Puddings . Sweet Tart Paste Paste for Steamed I oil Pastry Creams Coffee Chocolate Pate de Becassines au Truffles Pates or Raised Pies Patties, Calves Brain " Clam " Cutters for ' ' Oysters " Salmon " Shell " Shells ' ' Various Fruit Peaches and Cream Cobler Shortcake , With Rice Peas, Green Perch, Fried " Souchy.. Petit Pates de Foies de Poulets. Pickerel, Broiled Pickle for Spiced Meat Pie Paste, Plain Pie. Apple " Best Way " Cream " Turnovers Arrowroot Butter Chocolate Cocoanut Custard " " No. 2 White Cranberry Cream Curd Custard Gooseberry Lemon No. i " No. 2 " No. 3 " Mock Meringue for Orange Dumjj- 910 909 911 . 981 • 91^ . 986 961 ■ 959 960 739 738 490 242 957 212 591 955 946 956 1 102 663 1242 592 695 90 91 721 92 736 911 914 913 915 945 925 933 940 940A 942 943 922 934 923 938 917 918 919 921 944 916 266 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Pie, Peach 937 Pineapple Cream 924 Potato Cream 935 Pumpkin 926 " No. 2 927 " Without Egs^s 929 Raised or Pates 738 Squash 931 " Custard 930 Strawberry 936 Sweet Potato 928 Various Fruit 939 Vinegar 932 Washington 920 Pigeons Potted 491 " Pie 484 Pigs Head, a la Russe 489 " Galantine 737 Pike, a la Venitienne 93 Pilaff 820 Pineapple Fritters 514 " Salad iiii Plover 284 Polenta (Italian) 777 Polish Scrasis 800 Popovers 897 Pork. Back Bone Stew, Egg Dumpl. 477 Baked, and Beans 615 Boar's Head Hamburg style(D) 766 Boiled, and Sauerkraut 416 Chops with Fried Apples 606 Chops with Gravy 404 Fried Salt Pork and Milk Gra. 405 How to Roast Suckling Pig 406 Perfumed (Chinese) 762 Roast 403 Salad 539 Sausage 436 Spare Rib, Country Style 580 Tete de Cochon Farci 718 Potatoes. a la Creme 175 a la Julienne 160 a la Poulette 670 a la Maitre d'Hotel 156 aux Fine Herbs 669 au Persils 174 Baked in Milk 690 Boulette 149 Croquettes 657 Dauphine 150 Duchesse 148 Frizzed 151 Potatoes. Genevoise 152 Hollandaise 154 Lyonnaise 155 Manchester 1 62 Mashed 671 Minced 159 Pome a I'Anglaise 161 Puffs 512 Sabatier 153 Salad 555 Saratoga Chips 157 Sautes 158 Shells 653 Potting 5S4 Pouleinte (Italian) 773 Poulets au Truffles 724 Prairie Chicken 287 Pie 288 Pretzels 1248 Proper Paking Temperature 125 1 Puchero 811 Puddings. Apple 998 " Dumpling Boiled 983 " Roll, Boiled 987 Almond loii " Souffles, Individual ... 1061 Banana 1055 Barley, Baked 1053 Batter 1045 Berry Dumpling 866 Birds Nest 1049 Bread 985 " and Batter 1046 " Custard 1048 " " 1033 " Steamed 1007 " Baked 1036 Brown Bread 1035 Brown Fruit 1013 Brussels 1012 Cabinet, Baked 1052 " Steamed 1047 Chestnut, Steamed 103S Chooolate 997 " Vnil 990 Cinnamon Boiled 1050 Citron, Baked 1034 Cocoanut loio " Individual 1040 " Baked 1029 Corn Meal Plum 1031 Cottage 1037 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. 267 No. Puddings. Curd 1025 Currant Suet 1054 Dundee Meringue 1027 English Plum 1031 Farina ]oo5 Fruit, Baked 1028 German Steamed Plum 1032 Graham 996 Green Corn 1058 Gypsy 105 1 Havana 1024 Hominy 984 Indian Baked 1044, 1059 " Fruit Baked 1060 Individual L,emon 992 Puff 989 Italian 1016 Lemon Boiled 1020 " Meringue 991 Liverpool 1015 Macaroni 1056 Minute 1026 Motsa 791 Paste for Steamed Roll 986 Pineapple 1014 Plain Short Paste for Dump- lings and Puddings 981 Pound, Steamed 1008, 1042 Pumpkin 1017 Queen 1043 Raisin Suet 1022 Raspberr}' 982 Rice, Baked 1000 " and Apple, Baked looi " and Raisin 1002 " Custard 1003 Royal, Steamed 995 Savarin io39 Sultana 1023 " Raisin 1009 Suet, Boiled 1019 " Brown 1021 Sweet Potato 1018 'lapioca Custard 1004 " Baked 1041 " Meringue 1005 " Steamed 994 Tremont P'ruit 999 Various Fruit Rolls 988 Vermicelli 1057 Puffs. Boston Cream 1222 Cheese 1229 Puffs, Corn Starch Cream.s. PYuit Transparent Paste " French " Suet Quails a la Financier aux Petit Pois Broiled on Toast Minced Roasted Rabbits a la Jardiniere a la Soubise al'Etouffe Broiled Civet of Stewed with Dumpling With Sauerkraut With Spinach Radishes Rarebit Welsh , Ravioles ( Italian ) Red Vegetable Salad Remoulade Rice Cake with Currant Jellv Rice Croquettes " Boiled with Cream " Plain Boiled " Cake '• " with Compote of Fruit., " Shells Risot ( Italian ) Rissolettes de Poisson Rocky Mountain Sheep Rolls. Butter Cheese Cleft Delavan Flaky For Sandwiches Graham Imitation Vienna Parkerhouse, French or Split. Plain Vienna Rhubarb Marmalade Rossol nick Rose Leaves, Crystallized Rum Onieler Rusk, Finest " Sweet No. 1223 1228 1224 908 910 909 279 2S2 283 280 5S5 281 263 268 579 57S 264 266 265 799 267 705 622 771 544 660 993 493 691 667 1112 1113 624 772 647 253 839 1245 828 840 877 841 832 876 834 829 837 974 807 783 457 847 848 268 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Russian Cookery 803 " Salad , 565 Salad 518 Apple 549 Anchovy 561 Beet 546 Cabbage and Celery 557 Cauliflower 545 Celery 543 Chicken 537 Codfish 562 Crab 563 Cream 523 Cucumber 548 D'Amandes au Caviare 757 Dressing 521, 523, 524 Egg 541 Emergency 540 Endive 535 Fish 536 Frogs Leg 558 Garnishing for 1450 Ham 569 Hamburgh 571 Lettuce 552 Lobster 568 Mayonnaise 519 " Green 522 " Thin 520 Orange 550 Oyster 567 Oyster Plant 572 Pineapple iiii Pork 539 Potato 555 Red Vegetable 544 Russian 565 Salmon 559 Sardine 560 Scallop 564 Shrimp 542 Sweetbread 566 Sweet Potato 556 Tomato 554 Turkey 570 Veal 538 Watercress 547 Sally Lunn 842 Salmon, Kippered or Smoked 117 " Patties 591 " Salad 559 " Trout 81 " Tourte 809 Salt Fish 123 Sandwiches " au Caviare Pyramid of White & Br. " Ribbon 743, Sardines, a la Creole " au Parmesan " Petit Canapes de Salad Sauce. Apple for Meats Bechamel Bordelaise Bread Butter No. i " No. 2 Caper Celery, Brown White Chestnut Cranberry Cream Doree Egg For Game Giblet Green Sauce HoUan daise " No. 2 Imperial Fish Italian Lobster Maitre d'Hotel Hot Mint Mustard Olive Fish Oyster, Brown.. Vv'hite Parsley Plain White or Cream Robert Shrimp Spanish Tartar Hot Angelica Argentee Brandy for Plum Pndd.ng Cream, Hot C uracoa Ecarlate French Custard Hard Lemon Cream Lemon Syrup Maple Syrup 740 742 1448 1449 751 746 747 560 407 137 138 441 125 126 393 429 139 361 430 140 494 146 652 277 815 130 133 129 653 H3 144 408 439 136 124 145 142 140 135 141 662 134 1083 1074 1072 1082 1088 1081 1078 1071 1086 1075 1090 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Sauce. Maraschino 1089 Neapolitan 1080 Orange Syrup 1076 Ordinary Wine 1085 Pineapple 1087 Plain Custard J079 Plain Pudding 1067 Port Wine 1069 Raspberry 1070 Sabayon 1077 Simple vSyrup 1068 Sultana 1084 Transparent 1073 Sauerkraut, a Good Substitute. . . . 442 " Bacon and 417 " Boiled Pork 416 " Salad (German) 767 " German Way of Cook. 418 Sausage, Barcelona 810 ' ' Pork • 436 " Turkey 723 Service of the Table. Notes on Table Etiquette 1456 Proper Dislies to Use 1455 Two Ways of Serving Dinner. 1454 What the Author Considers the Best Way to Set a Din. Table 1453 Scallop 243 ' ' Salad 564 Scrasis an Kasche 801 Shad Roe, Fried 127 " " Scrambled 128 Shell Fritters 516 Shells, Potato 623 " Rice 624 Shortcake, Apple 1243 " Peach 1242 " Strawbc-rr}' 1241 " Scotch 1244 Shrimps 177 En Aspic 725 In Aspic 1446 Pyramid Rolls 180 Omelet 473 Salad . . 179, 542 Sandwiches 741 Sauce 141 Saute en Toast 178 Slaw, Cold 534 " Hot 685 Snipe and Plover 284 " a la P.ince of Wales 285 Soda Mead 1473 Soup. Andalusian Agnelotti (Italian ) An Parmesan (Italian) Beef Bouillon Beer ( German ) Bisque de Ho nard " of Partridge a la Dewey Bouillon de Lisbon Cauliflower Cherry ( German ) Chicken Sumb o , ,__, CTam Chowder No. i " " No. 2 Coloring for Coloring (Liquid Burnt Sugar) Conclusive Remarks About . . . Consomme a la Colbert " a la Paysanne .... " au Quenelles " au Macaroni ' ' ail Sherry " au Vermicelli " Brunoise Calcutta ' ' Claremont " Chatelaine " de Stael " Imperial " in Cups " Jardiniere " Knickerboc- er. . . . " Printanier " Royal Corn Chowder Cream of A.sparagus " Barley " Celery " Chicken ' ' Potatoes " Rice " Tapioca " Tomatoes Croutons for Fish Chowder ' ' Mulligatawny Game Milk and Almond Mulligatawny No. i " No. 2 Onion Ox Tail No. i " No. 2 Poor Man's 269 No. 59 768 769 57 764 6r 63 802 60 765 53 54 67 7 68 30 25 35 41 42 37 6 8 24 9 23 II 58 ic 26 34 36 51 '3 40 39 38 14 43 66 22 21 52 29 55 812 27 28 32 44 45 65 270 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. No. Soup. Potage de Lievre 55 Puree of Bean'- 47 *' Carrots 50 ' ' Green Peas 49 " Mushroom au Pom- mery 46 Split Peas 48 " Tomato au Crouton.. 20 Stock, How to Make paije i " Light page i " Scotch Mutton Broth.. 56 Rice and Cabbage (Italian). . . 778 " Radish " ... 779 Terrapin 62 ' ' Cream 64 Tomato 15 " and Rice 18 " " Green Pea 19 " Macaroni 16 " with Vermicelli 17 Turtle 2 " Clear 4 ' ' Green i " Mock 3 Clear 5 Wine in the Preparation of . . . 12 With Motsa 789 Veal 31 Vesiga 806 Spaghetti and Cream 577 Spanish Fritters 515 ' ' Sauce 662 Spare Rib, Country Style 580 Spinach, a substitute for 438 " Bacon and 414 " Boiled 410 Squirrels Broiled 286 Squab or Pigeon Pie 484 Squash, Summer 692 Stock, How to Make page 9 " Light Stock page 9 Strawberries and Cream 1103 " Shortcake 1241 Stuffing, Bread for Chicken 320 " Chestnut for Turk, or Ch. 359 for Fish 87 " Oyster, for Turkey, Chk. or Fish 440 " Sausage ISIeat 360 Succotash 684 Sweetbread, Au Petit Pois (gr. ps. ) 496 " Blanquette of and Oys. 488 " Croquettes 492 Nd».. Sweetbread, Fricassee of and Mush. 637 " Salad 566- " Supreme of 581 Sweet Potatoes 699 ' ' Browned 701 ' ' Salad 556 Tart Paste, Sweet 91? Tarts 947 Cutters for 957 Eldorados 952: Lemon 948 Meringue , 953 Puff 950 Vanilla Tartlets 951 Vol au Vents 949. Tea 1258 Temperature 1251 Terrapin, Maryland Style 582 Tete de Cochon, Farci 718 Thermometer 1250 Toast, How to Cut for Poached Eggs 65 1 ' ' French 906 Tomatoes 709 Omelet 459 Salad 554 Stuffed 773 Sweet , 67S With Mayonnaise 553 Tongue, Corned 443 Lamb's, with Artichokes 649 " with Bnissell Sprouts. 587 Ox 423 Ox, HoFandaise 611 Potted 659 " Papillottes .. 754 Tranches de Galantine en Jelly. . . . 730 Tripe Curried a I'ltalienne 497 " Pickled Broiled 437 Tsiras, Greek 782 Turkey 343 " Boiled, Oyster Sauce 347 " '■ with Salt Pork 345 " " Stuff ed, Cran. Sauc. 346 " " with Celery 349 " Boned 727 " " in Aspic Jelly 728 " Croquettes, Tomato Sauce. 353 " Fried Fillet of 352 " Larded with Mushrooms.. 34S " Minced v.'ith Poached E;.;gs 350 Patties 351 ' ' Roast 3^4 " Salad 570 " Sausage 723 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. i27i No. Turkey, Wild 278 Turnips, Stewed 702 Unnecessary Boning of Meat. .. . 374 Veal and Oyster Pie 593 Cotellettes, 804 Curry of, a I'lndienne 506 Cutlets a la Bonaparte 656 En Demi-Glace 621 Fillets of, Larded 602 Fricandeau of 5.99 Fricassee of, with Mu.shrooms. 485 Minced with Poached Eggs, . . 614 Minced with Dressing 402 Pie 540 Pot Pie 583 Ragout of, Jardiniere. 646 Ribs Baked, with Potatoes 610 Roast 401 ' ' with Dressing 402 Salad 538 Scalloped 620 Vegetables. To Boil Green 668 Artichokes and Gravy 474 Asparagus Tips on Toast 604 Beans, Butler, Stewed 673 " Cold Siring 688 '* Dried Lima 689 String 698 Beets, Cold 708 Beet Greens 683 Brussel Sprouts 672 Cabbage, Creamed 693 " Fried 694 " Shredded with Mayon. 551 Carrots, Brown 680 Fried 68r " Stewed 682 Cauliflower and Cream 675 Salad 545 Celery, to Curl 703 Corn, Pudding 679 " Roasted 676 and Tomatoes 677 Cucumbers 706 Egg-plant. Fried 700 " Stewed 658 Hominy, Fried 686 Kohl-Rabi 687 Onions, Boiled 697 " Green 707 ' ' Stuffed 475 Parsley, Fried 433 " Omelet 452 Vegetables. Parsley Sauce 142 Parsnip Fritters 590 Peas Green 695 Potatoes See Index P Radishes 705 Sea Kale, Boiled 696 Slaw, Cold 534 " Hot 685 Spinach, Boiled 410 " and Bacon 414 Squash, Summer 692 Succotash 684 Sweet Potatoes 699 " " Browned 701 Tomatoes 709 " Omelet 459 Stuffed 573 Sweet 678 ' ' with Mayonnaise . . . 553 Turnips, Stewed 702 Watercress 704 Venison 245 Chops Broiled 248 Consomme 247 Pie, Hunter Style 251 Potage 246 Pot Pie 249 Roast, Colonial Style 252 Saddle Roasted with Currant Jelly 250 Vinegars. Caper 531 Celery 530 Flavored 525 French Aromatic 533 Garlic 526 Nasturtium 528 Pimento 529 Ruby 532 Tarragon 527 Waffles. Baking Powder 887 French 867 Ordinary 868 Rice 883 Sweet 889 Watercress Salad 549 Watercress 704 Watrouschkisis 805 Weights and Measures 1252 Welsh Rarebit 622 Whitefish a I'Espagnole 98 Baked Stuffed 99 272 PRACTICAL AND ARTISTIC COOKERY. Whitefish, Boiled, Caper Sauce. ... 96 " Broiled 97 White Sauce, Plain 140 Wine in the Preparation of Soup. . 12 Provenance, Selection, Service 1457 Bordeaux 1459 Burgundies 1461 Champagne 1458 For a Course Dinner 1467 Madeira 1464 Moselle 1463 Wine, Port 1466 Rhine 1462 Sauternes 1460 Sherry 1465 Yeast §23, " Compressed 1249 " Ordinary 826- " Stock 825 " The Beginning of 824 Yorkshire Pudding 366 Zuluska 80& \ PROPER FOOD. 1 vr — ^ Vt /^N the followino^ page will be found some lithographic , ^'^ v^ ^^ illustrations of dishes made from healthful food products, 4^ X of which Shredded Whole Wheat Biscuit is the basis. ^J ^^ On the second page following are the recipes for making ^^ ^r these dishes ; showing also how to prepare the biscuit for ^^ ^ toast or bread. These recipes are taken from our new illus- ^•^ |;^ trated cook book, "The Vital Question," which contains over ^;| ^!^ 250 recipes besides much other valuable information concern- ^^ ^? ing foods. S ^^ The Shredded Whole Wheat Biscuit are made from whole ^J ^\ . . « S wheat, nothing taken from and nothing added, and is there- ^^ ^ fore a perfect food just as organized in nature's perfect labora- ||^ v^ tory. These biscuit are made light and short by mechanical ^ v< process, therefore the sour and offensive smells of fermented ^^ vr yeast or gases and greasy shortening are absent. «: 1^ The character of the physical structure of children is ^^ v^ largely determined by the character of the material (food) i|^ v^ that is selected to build their bodies. The responsibility of ^ ^<^ .... A ^^ parents is therefore great, as the foe d they give their children ift ^^ determines whether the child shall have good teeth or poor ^;^ |!5 teeth, good bone or poor bone, good muscle or poor muscle, ^^ vl and so on including all parts of the body. The teeth, muscle, ^1^ v^ etc., of the adult are likewise the products of the food they t% ^T eat. You must eat natural food or you must suffer. ^ vr . . . ^ ^ These biscuit readily lend themselves to almost limitless |^ V? variety of servings, and, as the basis of general cookery, are a ^!^ ^r great aid to the chef or cook and at the same time economical, ^- box of Plymouth Rock Gelatine (pink) in Vo cup cold water ¥2 hour. If yoti xise Knox's Gelatine or Burnham's Jeih'con, follow directions on those packages to piepareliquid ; then proceed as directed for Bromangelon. Cook the parings and cores of the apples in IV2 pints of water for 20 minutes, then strain the boiling v/ater from them on to the gelatine, stir until dissolved and add % cup sugar. When the sugar is dissoh-ed, strain and proceed as diiected in recipe above. An\- of the pure gelatines may be used. In their season, straw- berries, cimshed or cut in halves, ma^' be used as a substitute for stewed apjjlcs. Raspberries or other berries may also be used without cutting or crushing. Note. — Your tinner can make the nioxild for you ; dimensions : deep, 2^ inches ; long at top, 9 inches ; at bottom, SVa inches ; wide at top, 3Vs inches ; bot- tom, 2% inches.. I Biscuit with Milk or Cream, Served Warm. Hold the Biscuit ])etween thumb and second finger, and, with bottom side down, dip it cpiickly in cold milk, then hold it perpendicularly until the milk drains off. Lay the Biscuit in a buttered pan, cover, and put in a hot oven from three to five minutes. RemoA-e witli pan- cake turner to a warm plate, and serve with cream and sugar, if iDreierred, or with butter, or syrup. If it is desired to serve the Biscuit cold, after dipping in cold milk as above, let set from three to five minutes, and serve with top dressing of cream or milk, sugar to taste, or serA^e cold as taken from carton, with milk or cream. The above recipes are taken from The Vital Question Cook Book, which contains over 250 valuable recipes, a treatiS" on the food subject, table of food values, etc., conveniently arranged for consultation and illustrated, sent free to who send their names and address (and name this publication). Address, THE SHREDDED WHEAT CO , Worcester, Mass. 1 ^T**^****:***^^^'^******'^*^^^**'^*^***^*^'^*^^^^***^^***** vt v^ v^ V V! V( v^ vt Vt Vt vy %r vt vt vt vt vt vt ^ vt vt vx vt vr vr vx vt vt vt vt vt vt vr vt Vt Vf vt vt vt vt Vt. vt vt vt Vt vt vr vt Vt vt vr vt ^ vt J4ams Sxtracts JJre J^l^aifS the Q^st They may cost a little more than other kinds, but you get a pure flavor, and not a substitute Harris Sxtract of Vanilla Is made from pure Mexican Vanilla beans. Do you know that nine- tenths of all the Vanilla on the market is made from substitutes ? Ask for Harris^ Extracts and insist on having them* Recommended by Sugem Qirard \\ \^ \\ w \\ w )tk )ik \% w w \^ \% \\ )ik \% \\ \\ w \\ \\ \\ \\ )ik W \% \^ )ik \^ ;^ ^% \^ ;<% ;<^ ^^ ;-% ;<% ;-% ^-^ ^% ^■^ ;^ ;% ^■^ ;^ %%%%%%%%^^%ii'^%^%^^^^^^i^^'^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ r HM — II I I ^^ m i ^^ i» Thatcher's 4^- BA KING POWDER ^ TOOK - Highest Diploma AT world's fair, CHICAGO. IT WAS THE ONLY THE NEW CONTAINER Cream Tartar Qaking Powder Made in America that was reported by the Judge f Without a Gi*ain of ttn/tufitym All of ^ the others had some contamination. It was the | Only One that Dissolved in Hot Water | I CLEAR AS CRYSTAL j I I Purom Stuffed. The Chemical Analysis showed the Leavening Power of Thatchef's to be 15,64- Next highest only 14.22 Tumbler No. i wa.s filled with Hot Water and a Teapoonful of our liak- ing Powder dropped into it, when it dissolved perfectly, I^EAVING THE WATER CI^EAR AS CRYSTAL. Tumbler No. 2 was filled with Hot Water and a Tea^'onful of the best other Baking Powder dropped into it. At first it looked turbid and finally deposited sediment, every grain of which was foreign matter. 8000 Biscuits were daily made with Thatcher's Baking Powder at World's Fair, Chicago, which were pronounced by the ladies, the finest they ever tasted. When you make cake, cookies, doughnuts, etc., always use THATCHER'S. Half Pounds Pounds 25c 50g Sold by dealers generally. H. D. THATCHER & CO., POTSDAM, N. Y. H I — M l — I M »i 4IIIMII illll— ♦ M l^»lll ^^ III ^tm III — IIImJ Jan - 17 1901 DEC 31 1900 '^f. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ^ ■> .■^ /. .-^^ ,, ^*^>j\ V 'tr^.,^* , ■St' ^.pf^v T, >^.-«o; 'W¥ s f^ST' '■■' ^~ . -i-fi.-" . ", <5( -^ i N-