F 1060 .9 .S23 Copy 1 Glimpses of the Northland By Arthur Santmier Missionary Teacher Price, twenty-five cents Sketches of Life Among the Cree and Salteaux Indians ^>1« •? JllfAt. f^\ IN LIGHT HUNTING UHKSS. GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND SKETCHES OF LIFE AMONG THE CREE AND SALTEAUX INDIANS -BY- ARTHUR SANTMIER Missionary Teacher. PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR BY S. K. J. CHESBRO, 14 N. May Street, Chicago ;w"5S a. ^> ?:7. / Ji9 3 2i COPYIJIGHT, 1905 A. SANTMIER. PREFACE. This booklet was j)re])ai'ed at the request of friends, and is intended to ])recede a hirger volume to be iniblished in the near future. The illustrations are from photographs taken bv myself and have been selected somewhat at random from a large collection. A. s. Chica(jo, October 12, 1905. I. THE NORTHLAND. The great Northern wihlerness has charms that belong- to no other hind. With its illimitable wastes of snow and ice and its vast stretches of evergreen forests, sprinkled with birch trees and poplars ; with the impressive stillness brooding over the hind, and with its glorious display of Aurora Borealis, it stands preeminently the land of lonely mystery. The simple-hearted Indians roaming the interior of this country have peculiar, native ideas of deity. They see the Great Spirit in the flowers and trees, and hear his voice in the loud peal of thunder that follows the lightning's flash, and in the sighing of the night wind. The Red Man is intensely religious and his religion is full of superstition. The line of the f'anadian Pacific Railroad forms a frontier for many hundreds of miles. Northward all is wilderness, and only within a short time has the tide of colonization swept in that direction. For many years Lake Winnipeg has been the princi- l)al gateway to the land of mystery, known commer- cially as "the fur country." Down the four hundred miles' expanse of this mighty lake the supplies for many of the Northern i»osts are carried on large, well-ap])ointed lake steamers. In former years the cumbersome York boats afforded the only means for tTans])orting supplies. At diflerent points on the lake fishing stations 6 GLIMTSKS OF THE NORTHLAND liiive been established, and thousands of boxes of white-fisli, pickerel and sturgeon are annually sent to Eastern markets. In winter this might}^ lake lies buried beneath a mantle of ice and snow, while ter- rific storms swee]> over its glittering surface. Twenty-five miles from the foot of the lake in a northeasterly direction is Norway House, the dis- tributing point for the great Hudson's Bay Coni- }>any, and the center for the missionary enterprise of the Methodist church among the Cree and Sal- teaux Indians. Here the weary missionaries come in from the distant stations, seamed and scarred by storms, browned by exitosure and often weak from su tiering and hunger. Here all the sujiplies for the various mission stations are reshipped by canoe or dog-train. The building-s of the Hudson's Bay Company foiin (]uite a village by themselves, and many bear marks of battles in the old and troublesome days of lebellion. (Jovernment agency buildings are being erected, a Post-Office has been established recently, and a ])rosi)erous Indian l)oarding school, and a large church and jtarsonage give evidence of the l>resence and labors of the missionary. Southeast and east of Norway House are the mission stations of Island Lake, Oxford House and (iod's r^ake, in distance from one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty miles, reached by difficult canoe rout<'s. Northward from Norway House, down the mighty Nelson Kiver. are Cross Lake and Xelson House, both ])ros]»erous mission stations. On Lake Winnipeg, lilack Kiver, Poplar Riyer, Fislier Kiver. lieren's Kiver and other points are sta- GLIMPSES OF Til 10 NOKTHLAND 7 tions manned by Methodist missionaries. This en- tire district, including a "roup of stations far out on the Saskatchewan River in the provinces of Alberta and Saskatchewan, is under the supervision of the district chairman. Rev. T. Ferrier, who is also the su])erintendent of the Indian Industrial School at Brandon, IManiloba. For three months I was stationed at Cross Lake on the Nelson River as teacher of the Reservation Scliool, and at Oxford House and God's Lake for one year as missionary teacher. During this time I traveled extensively, and observed closely and will relate some of my experiences. DOWN LAKE WINNIPEG IN WINTER. It was in the stormy month of March that I re- ceived my introduction to the Northland. A howl- ing blizzard had swept over Lake Winnipeg and all roads or trails were hidden from sight. Trains on the Canadian Pacific and Canadian Northern Rail- roads were snowbound at different points, and for several days no trains left the station at Winnipeg. Reaching Selkirk by first train after the blizzard, 1 found all communication with the North stopj)e(l. Trains usually running thirty miles farther to Win- ni])eg P>each on the lake were cancelled, and all north of Selkirk was left in snowy mystery. After considerable inquiry I found that the teams that hauled fish from Reren's river, a ])oint one huudied and sixty miles down the lake, had been stopped for the season, and the only way to reach the North was by private horse and dog-te«m. GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND ¥ GLLMTSKS OF TIIK XUKTHLAXI* II At this jimcture 1 fortunately met Mi'. lMvinj» of the Ewiuj; and Fryer Fish Conijiany, a man thor- oughly conversant with methods of traveling in the North. As this gentleman was about to go far down the Nelson Kiver ]»ast my jtost of duty, 1 gladly ac- cejtted an invitation to travel with him. Late on Monday evening we started for Lake Winnipeg. For miles the road led us through dreary snow- drifts and then for miles upon the frozen surface of the Ked River of the Ncn-tli. We camped late at night in the log cabin of a half-breed settler, and in the small front room we spread our rabbit robes upon the Hoor and went to sleejt along with fifteen others — seventeen in one room. The next day, early. we reached the lake, and engaging a team of wiry, western horses, started on our long trij). We were obliged to carry sufficient horse feed to last during the entire trip. Our way for two or three days led us i)ast Ice- landic settlements along beaten roads, and then we crossed the Avide Washow i)eninsula and reached Fisher Kiver and Kay, the first Methodist miss-on on the west side of the lake. We startled a nundjer of moose while crossing this forty mile strip of wil- derness, and several rabbits and partridges fell vie-, tims to my revoher. We left Fisher Bay in a terrific blizzard and boldly launched out on the frozen exjtanse of Lake Winnipeg and faced the storm. The sleet cut our faces and benumbed our bodies, and even the ]>oor horses could scarcely stand before the gale, and we had difficulty in keejdng their heads to the nort'i. At one jioiiit we found ;i sleinh loaded with boxes (»f 10 (JLIMrSES OF THE NORTHLAND fi'ozeu fish, fast in an ice crack. The driver, being unable to extricate his load, had been obliged to leave it. We ran our teams at full speed, and jumi)ed the crack safely. We crossed a number of these dangerous cracks in this way. After severe battling with storms, and considerable ef- fort to find the trail, we finally reached Boren's River, the end of our one hundred and sixty mile ride behind horses. Besides being j martially fuow- blind. my face was badly scarred and covered with deep cracks, filled with coagulated blood. My forehead and cheeks were badly blistered, and in many wa^s the hardships of the trip were visible. To travel in the North is to court hardship and suf- fering. At Beren's River I met Mrs. McLachlan, the wift* of a missionary among the Oree and Salteaux Indians for many years. Her daughter. Miss Made- line McLachlan, a young lady of about nineteen years, was born in the North, and in addition to driving dogs and ])addling a canoe, she ])lays the i)iano nice- ly. After a short rest at this point Mr. Ewing started on exjiecting me to follow in an hour or two, but unfortunately T was iniable to find dogs and so was delayed for several days longer. After considerable ])arley I secured a young In- dian by the name of Francis, and a team of five fair- ly good dogs. I had a load of but two hundred pounds, and so expected to ride, but the way proved long, the dogs slow, and the weather cold; so I ran nearly all the way, a distance of about one hundred and twenty miles, finishing in two and one-half (la\ s. GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND 11 A XAUROW KSCAPE. The first night of this journov T met with an ex- perience which nearly terminated my hibors ere they had begun. We chose for our camp a mossy phice at the base of an uprooted tree, and after our custom- ary meal of roast rabbit, bannock and strong tea, I conducted our evening devotions and we prei)ared to turn in. For the Indian this was comparatively an easy thing, but to me it presented a danger for which I was entirely unprepared. Mr. Ewing was several days in advance with the bedding and I had but one thin blanket and the night was clear and cold. Few realize the intense cold of a night in the far North. It comes down silently, without warning, and embraces in its icy folds all that has life, and gradually, almost imj)erceptibly, destroys that life, rendering the Northland a land of danger and often of suffering and of death. Wrapping myself in my blanket I lay down, but not to sleej), for, as the fire gradually went down the mercury droi)])ed, and I soon felt that I was freez- ing. After two or three hours without changing my jmsition, I became alarmed and essayed to rise, when I found, to my honor, that I could not move a muscle. In terror I endeavored to call my guide, but my tongue would not obey. For the s])ace of two or three minutes I endured untold agony. Al last by a violent effort I succeeded in breaking the spell, and was able to move one limb; then the blood started to circulate, and with every nerve tingling, and Avith teeth chntterinu as the cold rushed in. 1 12 GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND made my way to the still glowing embers of the camptire aud endeavored to blow them into a tlame. The agony of body was too great, however, and so, with a not very gentle kick I awoke the Indian and soon we had a roaring fire. At half past one in the morning we harnessed the dogs and started on onr jonrney. The Anrora Borealis illuminated the heavens, lighting the starry host as they coldly gazed down ni)on us. All nature was wrapped in a cold shroud of mystery as our strange cavalcade fol- lowed the faint trail down Lake Winnipeg. At the Spider Islands my driver left me and a trader by the name of Donald Flett volunteered to take me the remainder of the distance to Norway House. With his very fast team of four beautiful black dogs and a pure white leader we reached his home at the foot of Lake Winnipeg, a distance of twenty miles, in a little over two hours, and here I stopjted to rest. And, oh, the glory of nature at this point I The little log cabin was built upon a })oint overlooking a large lake, dotted with forest-clad islands, and in the cold, sparkling sunlight, every object in sight took on new beauty. For a day or two I was royally entertained at the home of this trader. His wife, a Cree Indian woman, prepared the most toothsome delicacies to tempt the appetite, and never shall T forget the kindness of this trader and his wife. On Sunday morning Mr. Flett harnessed his dogs to a ( ariole. a sled with ])archment sides and back, aud covered with fur robes, I made my first luxurious cariole trip. The trail led though beautiful ever- green groves, dotted with silver birch trees, and I fjLi.Mi'sKs OF Tin: xorrniLAXit i:: .UTeatly onjoyod llial lido of twonty niilos in two and one quarter hours, the traihn- running the entire dis- tance. When within six miles of Norway House I bade farewell to my kind host, and leavin<^ my bajj;- 5»age with an Indian, 1 finished the distance on foot. Upon arrival at the mission, in spite of my way- worn and battered a])])earance, I received a very cordial welcome from Kev. Mr. Lousley, the Princi- pal of the Indian Boarding School, and his wife. I here met Miss Lousley, teacher of the Reservation day school ; Mr. Joblin, teacher in the Boarding School ; Rev. Mr. Nelson, missionary in charge of Norway House, and his three daughters; also Miss Yeomans, matron of the Boarding School ; and ^Nliss Riley, the seamstress. All were enthusiastic in their work, and the school was reported to be in a i)ros- ]»erous condition. The hardships of this trip were followed by a period of severe illness, and I was confined to the bed for a number of days, receiving kind care from all connected with the mission and school. When recovered sufficiently to continue my journey, two Indians and a cariole were i)rovided, and in weak- ness. I was heli)ed in and out of the cariole during the entire trip. The second day I reached Cross Lake and was warmly welcomed by the Indian mis- sionary, the Rev. Edward Paupanekis, and his fam- ily. After a further illness of more than a week I was at last able to begin my duties as school teacher, establishing my headquarters at the home of Brother Paupanekis, and starting at once to learn the language and customs of the country. During my stay at Cross Lake, F received many 14 (JM.MrSES OF TFIK .\( )1C TULAM > courtesies froDi the missionarv, and from Mi-. Mclvor, the trader. Mr. Mclvor bad a faiiiilv of sev oral bright children, and his two oldest boys as- sisted me greatly in my schoolwork, as they both were able and willing to interpret for nie. (Jut of school we snared rabbits, and trap})ed nmskrats. and enjoyed other sports together. i)i"ten I made my home with the trader and his family and f shall always remember the good things to eat Thich Mrs. Mclvor prepared. In the North the days in summer are long. In ^lay the day dawned at about two o'clock in the morning, and delayed its lingering beams until about ten o'clock at night ; so these early mornings and late evenings were devoted largely to hunting, fishing and exploring. Many rabbits, partridges, muskrats and a few ducks were secured. Sometimes I used a forty-four calibre rifle, and sometimes a shotgun. Edward Paupanekis is an eloquent Indian ora- tor. At first I could not understand a thing he said, excepting the names of Bible characters, but the gestures and facial expressions, as well as the tones of voice, gave me a correct idea of the subject mat- ter, and I considered it a treat to listen to him. My stay at Cross Lake, taking all things to- gether, was one of the most delightful i)eriods of my life, and will be long remembered. I trust that the friendships formed while there may never decay, but may be continued on the other side of the river, where disease and cold and suffering do not affect the body, nor trouble depress the soul. II. OXFORD HOUSE. This is one of the oldest of the inland po.sts of the great company and dates back more than six score 3'ears. Indeed its history is identical with that of Norway House in a certain sense, for Nor- way House was established by officers from the forts on Hudson's Bay, and Oxford was on the route, and became a natural halting place for boat brigades and canoes in summer, and for dog-trains in winter. The Methodist Mission was located for many years on the south side of the lake on a large bay, and the old church is still standing, roofless and tottering, a home only for the wild animal. The location was a beautiful one and commanded an ex- tensive view, but its chief charm lay in its quiet se- curity, reminding one of the historical land of Aca- dia. On the shore of a beautiful body of water, sur- rounded on all sides by nature's best productions, lakes, streams, hills and forests, with its water yield- ing myriads of whitefish of delicious flavor, and the forests close at hand furnishing the rabbit, deer, moose, feathered and fur-bearing game, what more could the native wish to complete his happiness? and yet to-day there are but two or three families located at this point, the mission has been removed for many years, and the old church has fallen into decay. An air of loneliness pervades the place and sadness the very atmosphere. li; CLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND OXFORD HOUSE MISSION. AN INDIAN'S HOME NEAR OXFORD HOUSE. (;i,i.\irsi:s of 'viiv. NOUTTiT.Axn it Oxford Lake is an irregular body of water about thirty miles long, and varying in width from a few hundred yards to fifteen miles or more at its broad- est place. Near either end the lake narrows down, forming a deep, swiftly -tiowing river for a short dis- tance. At the eastern extremity the lake becomes very shallow with sandy bottom, and flows through a very naiTow channel into another lake of consider- able size, forming a high peninsula, upon which the present fort, mission and Indian village are located. The lake is dotted with islands, and the shore is broken by many beautiful bays and softly rounded capes. The water is greenish blue in color, entirely different from the muddy waters of Lake Winnipeg and the Nelson River, Oxford Lake is noted for the flavor of its whitefish. The lake trout are also of fine flavor, and even the large red-fin suckers that come in schools on the warm mud banks in early S])ring, are delicious to a hungry traveler. The nar- rows usually do not freeze in the winter owing to the weedy and muddy bottom, and to the powerful current, and here the jack-fish throng in countless numbers. A canoe trij) on beautiful Oxford Lake is not soon forgotten. A gentle breeze is blowing almost continually, the atmosphere is so remarkably clear that objects may be seen for many miles; the water is clear and splashes gently against the sides of the canoe as you ])addle or sail. Can a more delightful scene be pictured? But this is only one of the moods of this changeable lake. Again it rages in 1)1 ind fury ; the great waves dash themselves in pieces upon the rocks, and the wind holds high revelry. IS (iLIMl'SKS or Tin: NOKTIILANl) When Oxford Lake is angry, canoes are safe only when far up on the rocky shore. The village is situated on a high bluff at the eastern end of the lake, facing the vast expanse of blue water in summer and snowy expanse of ice in winter. The cold winds from all quarters of the compass sweep down ujxm it and whirl the drifting snow in fierceness around it. Directly in front is Lake Oxford. To the east is a short portnge, and then Back Lake, dotted with islands. To the north the swift-flowing NaiTows, and to the south a narrow isthmus, and beyond a vast wilderness. Thus the village is almost surrounded by water. Here the w^ords of the Ancient Mariner sometimes came to mind, "Water, water everywhere, and not a drop to drink," for in winter time the water is hid- den by an icy covering of from four to eight feet in thickness, and u])on this falls several feet of snow, so only by dint of much labor can water be secured. The Hudson's Bay Company's fort is enclosed by a stockade and embraces a numlier of buildings, in- cluding dwelling house, store, office, storeroom, In- dians' house and powder magazine; the last two be- ing located outside of the stockade. In former times Oxford was a very important post, and many hands were emi)loyed. A large number of cattle was kept to furnish milk for the post, and many were used to haul the winter's supply of wood. The Indian population was then much greater than now ; for the former glory has departed. The large barn has been pulled down, and a single cow represents the bovine greatness of the past, although a large business in furs is still carried on annually. ("jrnirsES or tiik xoki'iii.am) lo Each yoai- sovoral York bonis are tni-ned onl by tlio Oxfoid boat builders. A larow- erful field-glasses. The Mission Station faces the west, and the Western sun flooded my room with its glory. There is nothing to compare with the beautiful sunsets of this Northern land. With its Aurora Borealis and its disjjlays of sunlight both morning and evening it seems truly God's great out-of-door cathedral , and if as Bryant says, ^'The groves were Ood's first tem- ples," how fitting that in flood of sunset or in flash- ing midnight glory, (lod should come to his tem]>le while all nature worships. L'o cr.nirsKs ok riii: .nou'iulam) Extending farther aronnd the lake is a line of Indian houses, reinforced in summer by many wig- wams. But these liouses contain few of the band who claim Oxford House as their fur market. For many miles along both shores of the lake are lonely houses, occui>ied only in winter, and without ex- (•e])tiou situated in a jMcturesijue place, commanding an extensive view. The houses are of logs, hastily built, mudded in- side and outside, with a huge, mud-lined fireplace and chimney on one side. These houses are usually very small, and of course contain but one room, of height sufhcient to allow a full-grown person to stand erect when not near the wall. Just over the fire])lace a framework of poles is placed and upon this staging articles of clothing are dried, frozen lish and game are thawed, and meat is dried for future use. The builditig is usually surrounded by lieaps of refuse; entrails of wild animals, remains of tish, and filth of all descriptions is thrown just out- side of the door. This condition of surroundings is often the cause of dangerous sickness. The houses are occupied by from four to fourteen individuals, and sometimes by more. In nearly every case sev- eral families live together, without tables or chairs or any furniture unless jierhaps one may boast of a box in Avhich he or she keeps the choicest posses- sions, so the floor becomes table, chair and bed. The Indian sits or lies u]»on the floor, eats and works on the floor, and at night rolls up in a dirty rabbit-skin robe and sleej)s on the floor. No wonder that immorality and disease flourish. The wigwams are not much better, but have the advantage of a (u.nirsEs OF the noutiiland lm thorough c-ii'cnlation of air both day and niglit. In winter the wi<>wani is built of poles closely packed toiiotlier, chinked Mith moss, with tire in the center and central draft throu<;h the toj) of the wij^wani. In summer all houses are deserted and light wig warns of birch bark or canvas take their i)lace. The Oxford House band comprises about three hundred and fifty men, women and children. Of this number eighty are members of the ^lethodist church and fully one hundred more attend the church services regularly. The place of woman is different from that of long ago, as the christianiz- ing influence of the (}os})el is slowly but surely work- ing a decided change for the better, while polygamy among those bands reached by the missionaries is practically a thing of the past. III. TEACHING INDIAN SCHOOLS. The education of the Indian is being looked after both by the government and the church. On all the Reserves day schools have been established, and in Nou Treaty territory several different denomina- tions are at work. The Methodist, the English and the Ronum Catholic churches have missions and schools among the various tribes of Canadian In- dians. In many instances the church and state work together, the church furnishing ti'ained teach- ers, and the Indian department sui)i)lying school material, and i>roviding a jiroper curriculum for daily use. The schools of the Lake Wiuni])eg region are of this ty])e. At Norway House the Church of England maintains a school, and both Roman Cath- olics and tlie Church of Enghuid have schools at the mouth of the Saskatchewan River. These schools are on regular reserves, and are under the super- vision of the Indian agents. Text books and sup- ]>lies are furnisiied by the government, and (juar- terly rejmrts are sent in by the teacher to both the Indian dejiartnicnt and the churcli. My first Indian scliool was on the Cross Lake Reserve, about sixty miles north of Norway House. A band of about four hundred Indians is located at this ])oint and both Roman Catholic and ^lethodist churches maintain missions and schools. I taught the Methodist school, and as the two schools were GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND 23 on 0])i)Osite sides of the lake, they were so situated as to contlict but little, since each received the jm- pils living nearest. My school-house was built of logs, mudded inside and outside, and fitted with some very rickety tables and benches. When five or six pupils were seated on one of these benches deeei)ly engaged in writing in their copy books, one would move slightly to seek a more comfortable position, and the whole bench would move, and a series of hieroglyphics would be the result. The sides of the school room were lined with boxes of biscuits, a variety of hard-tack. Each box contaiins about twenty-five ])0unds, and 1 had over eighteen hundred pounds of this biscuit in the school at one time. To me it is tasteless, but, my, how the little Indians love it! The government i)ro- vides that each pupil coming to school for the entire day may receive two biscuits at the noon hour ; and it is a merciful provision, for the majority would re- ceive nothing at all for dinner if biscuits were not distributed. As a means of increasing the school attendance they are also undoubtedly a success, for many come to school for their "biscuits" who wculd not come for the instruction. The hour for distrib- uting these dainties is perhaps the hai)piest hour of the day for both teacher and pu])ils. The eager, expectant look u])on the faces of the children is a ])icture worthy of the i)encil of an artist. I would command them to sit erect with their hands ofl' the desks, and then would lay two biscuits on the toj. of the desk in front of each ]»upil. Sometimes a too eager pair of hands would grasp the precious bis- cuits before 1 had granted permission, but gener- 24 GLIMrSES OF THE NORTHLAND ally all sat sikMitlv, after uttering the words, "thank you," until each had received his or her share, and at the word "stand" all stood erect for a moment, but when excused, twenty biscuits went to the moutiis of twenty little Indians in a jiffy. The freedom became hilarious and even the teacher was affected at times and was inclined to shout and make merry with the little Indians. After "biscuit time" perhaps the most interest- ing and enjoyable hour was the time for imparting "general knowledge" according to the jirogram furnished us by the Indian department. For this purpose, I devoted the first and the last fifteen min- utes of each session, and thus school began and ended with interest at its height. I would start briskly and rapidly ask questions — "Name the months of the year." "the days of the week," "count fifty in unison," "repeat the twenty-third Psalm," "the alphabet ;"and then a two minutes drill on colors would follow, when I would rapidly i)ick up differently colored pieces of chalk, and point out the colored articles in the room. They soon learned the names and colors of all the articles in the room and then I would bring my pockets full of small things to use in this exercise. Sometimes I would hold an article up and ask its name, and then, before they had time to answer, would quickly substitute another article and so the slow coming answer would be wrong and would illicit a shout of laugh- ter. When asked, "What is this thing made of?" they would generally reply, "wood," "stone" or "iron" as the case might be, but sometimes their answers came with hesitation, and I would assist GLIMPSES OF THE NORTH LAM) 2n by sn.vin,£i, "Is it of wood?" and beinc; thus suji;p;ost(Ml would loply at ouco, "Yes, wood." ri»ou one occa- sion I ta|)j)ed with the i)ointfn' \i])on the head of a very didl boy and asked, "What is this made of. is it wood?" and they soh^ninly replied, "Yes, wood,"' but a moment after saw their mistake and cried "Xo, no," and burst into laughter. They could not tell me, however, of what the head was composed. and neither could their teacher, so the question was droi)ped. My predecessor, Mr. Joblin, of the Norway House Boarding S<-hool, tauj>ht the children to say, ''Thank you," when receivinii; biscuits or any other gift or favor. One day a very small boy who had re- cently entered the school, upon receiving his bis- cuits was asked, "Now what do you say?" but he could not think of the English words, and so hestood for a moment looking blankly into Mr. Joblin's face, and then gravely responded, "Amen." He knew he must say something and that was the only English word he knew, and so he said it. A wise thing truly, esjiecially as it fitted the case exactly. The slips and mislakes of those learning another language are truly amusing, at least to the hearer, and if the sjteaker is not easily otfended, both par- ties may enjoy a hearty laugh. One of my pupils was a heavy, chunky, good-natured boy. smart in some ways, and dull in others, and afforded a vast amount of fun for the other children; yet he was never angry or i)ut out by their laughter. This boy was reading about .sheeji eating grass, and to teach him to ap])ly names to the proper objects, I sent him out to bring in sonx' grass. lie came in by and by 26 GLIMPSP:S of the NORTHLAND with some j^rass and exiillaiitly handed it to me. As 1 took it 1 .said, "That is jiood, uow tell me what it is," and he i-ejilied, "monse,'' and of course this answer was greeted with laujjhter. We had killed a mouse in the school room, and in remembering the words "mouse" and "grass" he had hopelessly con- fused them. This same boy had a peculiar knack of picking up a few words of English and ajjplying tliem in the most ridiculous manner. He read in one of his read- ing lessons, ''O Lucy, see that little sheep," and soon that ex})ression became his war-cry. When ui)on the i>laygTOunds or at home, no matter whether working or placing, when least you expected it, he would cry out, ''O Lucy, see dat little sheep," and soon he set it to music, and at night-time his voice Avould come floating across the river singing, "O Lucy, see dat littles sheep." T didn't recognize the tune, but the words were familiar, and were sung with great strength, if not skill. Somehow, I took a great liking to this dull, good-natured boy. On dull days I would resort to other means to arouse an interest in school work. Sometimes I Avould ])erform simple feats of magic, and will never forget the oi»en-mouthed astonishment and wonder when I caused a coin to vanish from my extended hand and then to reappear in a boy's pocket. He carefully examined his pocket for some time to see if any more coins were to be produced, and failing to find any, he looked at me for a long time in a most confused manner, and when I had carefully picked a ten cent piece from the tip of a boy's nose, and a (]uarter from another boy's ear. they were fairly GLIMPSKS OF THE XOKTIILAND crazv to kuow how it was done, riobabiy the chil- dren will never understand fully how it was accom- plished. These tricks were performed during the last few minutes before closing; school, and thus in- terested the pupils and removed dullness. Among my other duties I found that I was ex A WINTER WIGWAM. l»ected tt> teach knitting, and a supply of wool. yarn and knitting needles was provided by the In dian department. This was beyond my ability and. as I was already living alone in the school-house and doing my own cooking, I thought it would be l.>etter to omit the knitting for a while and ]»erhai>s later join a sewing and knitting class, and take les- sons in embroidery, dishwashing, ironing, etc, and thus j>repare myself more fully for teaching an In 28 GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND (liap school. SomPhOAv, knitting did not appeal lo iiie as i)ec'uliaily a niasouline emplo3'ment. At God's Lake the work of teachinp; a school was of a different character. No missionary or teacher had been stationed there, and parents and children were alike totally ignorant of the nature of a school. I arrived at God's Lake in early Sej)- teniber and at once commenced work. The church was a slimsy structure, very cold, and the roof leaked so badly as to render it untenable in rainy weather. There were no desks, chairs or black- boards. A few books and slates I brought from Ox- ford House. A number of children were orphans. I plainly announced in the preceding Sabbath serv- ices that only children of school age, that is, from six to fourteen yeai"s, would be received, and that I did not conduct a nursery, nor did I want a wife, and therefore grown-ui) girls could not attend the school, for their sole object in coming was to im- press the school-teacher with their charms and thus win a husband if possible. At this new ]»lace I seized the first opportunity to impress the ])eople with the fact that attending school was a business, serious and solemn, and that the future of the child was determined largely by his school life. As a consequence 1 had a regular school attendance of twenty pupils, a very unusual thing in an Indian school, and all anxious to learn, and the ]»arents equally as anxious for their chil- dren to attend. On the day l)efore o])ening school, one of the Indians came to me and said that his lit- tle girl Avas not quite five years old, but asked me if T would take her on trial for a dav or two. I (j.iMi'SKs OK Tin-; XOUrill.AM* -JO knew the little daujihtei- 1o he verv l)i-i<>lit iiiid of more than ordinai-y iiitelli,iien(<'. and so readily granted the desired permission. He then asked me if I boarded the children in the church, and if they attended niiiht an scliool nl (ondsinco. At both Cross Lake and Oxford House 1 conlinued (eacliiii};'. notwithstanding the majority of my pupils were suf- fering with tlie ninniiis. The schoolroom was a bet- ter place for them than their own filthy wigwam or cabin. Some were suffering terribly and unable to speak or eat. The swelling would burst in sev- eral places, and thus render the cases doubly dan- gerous in case of exposure or cold. At Cross Lake I had the mumps, presumably out of sympathy for the children, but although scarcely able to speak, I managed to continue my school work. I often call to memory incidents of school life among tlie little Indians. The wit and sharp- ness of the Cross Lake pui)ils, as well as their kind- ness, the brightness, enthusiasm and attention of the wild children at Cod's Lake, and the hard rou- tine of the Oxford school, all have their jtlace in my memory, and not among all the days spent in the Indian school-room can 1 recall a single unhap])y one. Some of my little ])upils have already jtassed froi*i earth's cold wilderness, and at Cross Lake their little forms rest 'neath the winter's snow and sunmier's flowers. Others have scattered North- ward and Eastward and dwell afar in the forest; but Trhcn the thrilling blast from God's trumpet sJia'.I sound T expect to be present at the reunion of my Indian sclioul children. IV. A TYPICAL CANOE TRIP. While in charge of Oxford House I received an urgent request from the Indian missionary at God's Lake to come at once and officiate at his marriage ceremony. Evidently he was sorely smitten and tins case was an urgent one, so without delay 1 made the necessary arrangements. God's Lake is a post of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany about eighty miles southeast of Oxford House. In the winter this distance is shortened to about forty-five miles by short cuts over portages and across frozen lakes. Being entirely off the routes of travel it is greatly isolated, and the Indians are more primitive and simple than those of other posts. The canoe route from Oxford House to God's Lake is a difficult one, made so by numerous portages, shallow rivers and large, windy lakes. At the time of receiving this request I x\as busily engaged in rebuilding the church and had a number of men at work. Although near the clojae of May, the lakes were still covered with ice and the rivers were but lately freed from their crystal covering. Men were scarce, traveling perilous, my work on the church important, but the request of my brother was not to be put aside. On May 25 at 11 :30 in the morning I started. There were no available men and so I considered mvself fortunate in securing the services of an In- cLnri'sKs or tin-: north land r.r, (lian by the name of Albert. This nuiii was at one time au exjuM-t boatman and gnide, but b.v reason of broken health and ohl a<;e his strength had hu']»osed resemblanee in shape to the human knee. This lake is about sixty miles lonj; and of varying' width, dotted with beautiful islands. We camped on the shore of this lake, not far fi'om the mouth of the river, and a dreary camp it was. Everythinf> was wet, and we had no time to dry our elothinj* or beddinj*. During the night a light fall of snow covered us with a white blanket, and we awoke early to find another stormy day had dawned. Hastily eating our breakfast we stsirted. Our canoe leaked badly, and the first business at each stoi)ping i)lace was to unload and turn the ca- noe over to let the water run out, and then to search for new leaks, and stop them by api)lying the melted pitch from pine trees. The Indian's method of find- ing leaks was a novel one. ]>y running his mouth along the seams and strongly sucking at suspected ])0ints he could easily locate the leak and determine its size by the amount of air he could suck through. Our food consisted of tea. without sugar, a few pounds of coarse Hour, and whatever game or fish we could kill by the way. Ducks were fairly i)len- tiful. but were wild and hard to shoot. Kabbits were numerous and we secured several. As we rapidly passed down the first ten miles or more of Knee Lake, during a lull in the storm, the sun came out in beauty to show in all its loveli- ness the scenery of the lake. Kut the situation soon changed, the sun became obscured by heavy. GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND MKTHOmST CHUKCH AT GODS LAKE. A COD Six rjS GLIMPSES OP^ THE NORTHLAND tliieateuiiig clouds, and we found ourselves cut off by a solid field of ice extending entirely across the lake. By following a narrow crack close to the shore and by finally jjortaging across a rotten ice Hoe, we reached the clear water and paddled straight down the lake to the mouth of the Wolf River. For the remainder of the day frequent storms of great fury annoyed us and at times threat- ened to interrui)t our journey. At about two o'clock we left the twenty miles of Knee Lake behind us and started to ascend the Wolf River. At the very outset we were cut off by troublesome rapids and were obliged to make a half-mile portage. This rapids was disturbed by large numbers of suckers forcing their way upward to the still waters above. At the head of this rapids we found a fish-weir, or trap to catch fish. This is simjdy a chute made of poles, and so tilted that the current runs uj) the slide and then drops through betwen the poles ; not so the fish ; they are cari'ied uj) as far as the current goes and left on the poles, one or two cross sticks ]>reventing their re turn down the slide. This is an Indian contriv- ance, and as the stream is dammed at this place, and the slide is the only outlet, it prevents all fish from going up the stream, and catches all the fish coming down. Large numbers of suckers, ]»ickerel and wall-eyed }iike were seen in this trap and also large numbers in the water and along the shore in a state of decom])osition. Wolf River is about nine miles long and is very narrow and very crooked, flowing through a wilder- ness of swamps and dry sticks. Paddling rapidly GLIMPSES QV THE NOKTIILAXD 30 tlii'oiigh this rivor wo ompi'f]jcd into a lako of about throe or four miles in diameter, which was still covered with ice. By skirting the shore we reached tlie mouth of another river, the Wolverine, similar to the Wolf, draining a similar country but more crooked and, in its uppei* courses, so very shallow as to greatly hinder navigation, even in em(i)ty ca-^ noes. Like the Wolf river, the Wolverine ends its nine or ten miles course in a stony rapids, which comjielled us to portage. We camped on this portage the second night. Rabbits were plentiful here, and the rapids teeming with suckers attempt- ing to force a passage to the river above. At this camp I made an attempt at drying my clothing and my single blanket. The nights were too short, how- ever, and it was ten o'clock by the time we ate our supper. We were off early in the morning and ])assed through the Wolverine with nothing of im])ortance to break the monotony of the very crooked river, and at nine o'clock reached Mossy Lake, which is about ten miles in length. Tt was also covered with ice, and we made a wide detour. We now reached the most diflScult part of our journey, the dreaded ]Mossy I'ortage. This portage is two miles in length, and of such a boggy nature that for a considerable i)art of the way the men would sink to their knees in slimy nijud at almost every step, and frecpiently to their waists. Tt has caused the breakdown of many a robust boat- man, and during the summer of 1904 T ])assed three men at one time lying on this ])ortage with ruptured lungs, bleedini* from mouth and nostrils. The loads 40 GLIMTSKS OF THE NORTHLAND are so lieavy and footinii" so jirecarions that in many instances a fall is inevitable, and in falling with a two hnndi-ed i»onnd load on his back, the man is sei-ionsly injured. Many strong men have been min- ed for life on the famous flossy Portage. I cannot look upon its gloomy expanse without thinking of the broken lives of Ihese bcuitmen. Alltcrt and I ujion reaching this portage, bar- gained with one of the Company's canoe men to por- tage our canoe while we carried a i)ortion of his load, and in this way, we finally crossed the cruel swamp and ate dinner on the shore of God's Lake. The portage was much better for portaging in the previous year on account of low water. Usually for nearly two-thirds of the distance an empty canoe can Im? pulled through the swamps in the shallow surface water, but at this time there Avas not suf- ficient water and the canoes had to be carried. God's Lake was solid with ice and we were obliged to follow the much indented s!.ore through a narrow canal of slrilliAV water. \\'Iien within about eight miles of God's Lake post a large bay four or five miles in width had to be crossed. We discovered an ice crack that ai)parently extended clear across the bay and after much deliberation we decided to ex])lore^this craf'i; rather than (o go around, i distance of ten or fifteen miles. Accord- ingly we jiaddled doAvn the ever-narrowing chan- nel until within a few hundred yards of open water on the other side when the crack suddenly ternii nated. We looked foolish for a moment, but the Northern tri}>]»er is full of resources, and so without further hesitation we jumjied (uito the quaking ice, GLIMPSES OF TIIK XOItTIILANI ) 41 carried our loads and canoes across and re-embarkod in open water on the other side. I must confess that to nie tliis was very nervous work. To carry a heavy load over ice that is liable to drop one into a cold, watery abyss forty feet deej). recpiires strong,' nerves and jireat presence of mind. ^^'e reached (Jod's Lake Mission in the eveninjj; a1 eij;ht o*clo<-k and were welcomed by Pi'ederi<-k Apeta}»un, the native missionary, who had been eagerly awaitinj^ our arrival. A sujijter of baked or roasted whitefish followinji a luxurious wash in the frying ]»an, and 1 curled uj) in my rabbit-robe. and lay down upon the floor to sleej). As the next day was Sunday, and as I had no in- ter[)reter, 1 listened to two sermons in the Cree by the Indian missionary, ]»rea(hed to uiy former con- gregation. On ^londay at ten o'clock the important cere mouy took place. Frederick, leading his blusliiug bi-ide. was folloAved by bridesmaid and groomsman, and the church was rai)idly tilled with Indians, all attired in holiday costumes of extensive variety in style, shajie, color and antiquity. 1 read tlie serv- ice in English and asked the questions in Cree. Ujwn being pronounced husband and wife the groom gallantly kissed his br'de. and his examjile was fol- lowed by many in the congregation. We then ad- journed to the o] en mIi- where several salutes were fired from a dozen old muzzle-loading guns. As T had my automatic rej eating shotgun with me I was invited to assist n the saluting. T fired five shots rai)idly by simply pulling the trigger, and for :i moment the onhMikcrs were ;istirrm.AM» i." camped at the foot of the rapids on Wolf Iviv<'r Mitliiu sijilit of Knoo Lake. I)ui-in«i- tlie nijiht a slunver of laiu fell, and Wednesday dawned dull and eold. Although liav- inj;- slept but little we were off at three o'clock in the niorninj; and made the twenty miles on Knee Lake by ten o'clock. stop]>;nj> once to make tea. Al- bert and I reached the river tirst, but at Trout Falls the canoes forged ahead and soon left us. We now had to ascend the raj»id Trout River against a stormy head wind, and found it very ditti- cult work. We however arrived at the hU^e back of Oxford House with the other canoes, and landed there, portaging our loads across to the mission about one mile distant. We made the return trij) in two days easily. During this journey I was constantly wet and cold, with a wet blanket for covering, and the wet ground for a bed. Tonsidering this, it is no Avonder that on the return trip I suffered greatly from my old enemy, the cataiTh. Upon my arrival at Oxford House. T was sj)itting blood, my head was ringing, my hearing was affected, and 1 was in a dila]>idated condition generally. This canoeing amid great exposure and danger, doing your half of the paddling, portaging and cam]> work, is more romantic when described upon paper than when ex])erienced amid ice floes, rajtids and stormy weather. This is only (me of my canoe ti-ijis and gives but a faint idea of one (»f our regulai- methods of travel in the Northern wilderness. V. ODDS AND ENDS. DOGS AND DOG-DRIVING. The Indian dog has become a mongrel. The blood of a dozen different breeds Hows in his veins. The best dogs are used by traders. They are long limbed, and long-haired, usually suspicious of strangers, often vicious, but capable of enduring an untold amount of exposure, starvation and hard work. The Eskimo dog is very closely allied to the violf in nature, and is treacherous and vicious. An Eskimo dog that has once tasted human blood must be killed at once, for all in the neighborhood will be in danger as long as it lives. These dogs are sometimes pure white, sometimes pure black, but more often they are both black and white, or a silver gray. They are slow, steady, hard-pulling dogs, and will stand a great deal of abuse as well as hard work. The harness is made of either moose skin, cow- hide, canvas or walrus hide; and is composed of three parts : the collar, backpad, including girth, and the traces. As the dogs are driven in tandem style, with either four or five dogs to a team, the traces of each of the rear four dogs are five and one half feet in length ; and the traces of the leader are usually six and one-half feet in length. (;i,I.MI'SES OF THE X()KTrir-A.\r> IX ciJMi'SKs oF'i'Hi: Noirriii-AXD Tlie <>i-(liii;irv ll;i( s1(m1 is Iwclvc feel loiiji, sixtooii or eigliteen iuclies wide, fitted with loops on eitlier side for lacinj;, Jiiid curled np at the front end in order to jnni]» over obstructions. A cariole is made of stiff boards and is usually wider than the freight sled. It has canvas or parch- nxent sides and wooden back, and is a very comfort- able means of conveyance for trader or missionary. The doos are driven by word of command, and a heavy whip is commonly employed to enforce these commands. An ordinary day's trip on the lake is from forty to sixty miles, and in the woods from twenty-five to forty miles. When traveling with a load the driver is obliged to go on foot, and T have traveled hundreds of miles in this manner. Our dogs thrive and grow fat upon a diet of deliciously flavored whltefish. Each dog at the close of the day's work receives two fish ; to feed them oftener than this would render them lazy and unfit for work. When not working one fish is sufficient ; and frequently an Indian will allow his dogs to fast for days at a time. CANOES AND CANOEING. The birch-bark canoe is the Indian's exclusive property. He is the inventor, builder and owner. There is a great difference in bark canoes. The ones at Cross Lake and Norway House are light and graceful, built especially for rai)id traveling on rivers and small lakes. They are not able to stand heavy seas and so are not used on the large lakes. Those built by the God's Lake and Oxford House Indians are larger and heavier, with ends higher out (;i-i.Mi'si;s OF THK noktiilam* r.i of the watoi', ninl tlms inv fit tod for liierience. A very slight accident will break the frail sides or bottom, and great caution is necessary when traveling among rocks. These canoes can be paddled through the water with great rapidity and many moose, deer and bear are overtaken in the water and slain by Indians in their birch-bark canoes. Cedar and basswood canoes are now being used extensively by traders and missionaries as they are larger and have greater carrying capacity, a canoe hold'ng twenty-five hundred pounds being manned by but two Indians. voiuc r.oATiNc;. These cumbersome l)oats are built of heavy tim- bers, and when conipleted are of several tons' we ght. no (JLIMPSES OF THE XOHTITI.AXl) (;i,l.\irsKS OF 'PIIK NOinilLAXl) ."I witli n mpnfity of fivo tons and a vrew of nine Tii (lians, oij^lit bein^' oai-sni^t^n and one stocrsnian, <»r captain. Great oars are used to ])ro])el tliis Iiea\.\ craft and lonj;- ropes are used to ]tnll or "track" il uj) the rapids. In some ])laces even this boat has 1o be portaj»ed over a divide or ]»ast a waterfall or rajjids. Wlien a portage is reached the men quickly lie their cari'ving straps to their loads, the cajttain loads each man with two i)ieces of one huudi-ed pounds each, and he starts on a trot across the portage. He deposits his load on the far side of the ])ortage and detaching his strap, runs rapidly back for another load. This is repeated until the entire boat load is carried over, when the York boat is carefully lowered through the rapids, and (piickly reloaded. This work is done with such rapidity that to the observer it seems impossible. Sometimes dur- ing a day's travel there may be fully a do/.en of these portages, and estimating the boat contents to be one hundred sacks of flour, each man Avould carry an average of one hundred and sixty -two sacks of Hour, a distance ranging from ten rods to one mile, in ad- dition to manning the loaded boat in still water and the emi)ty boat in rapid water, and doing his own cooking and camp work. This is the hardest work a man can find to do and very few are able to stand it for more than five or ten seasons at the most. Sooner or later they are injured and join the army of wrecked men to be found at the trading posts. INSECT PESTS OF TIIK sr'M MKR-TI M H Although the winter season is of long duration. ."i> (;I.nI^^^^:s or Tin: xoirriiLAXD yet July is hot and disagTeeable. In many locali- ties great SAvarnis of mosqiiitos, sand-flies, bush-flies, hull-doos and other pests "fill the air. and darken heaven and curse this Northern land." At such times a gauze head-net is an absolute necessity. The air is actually darkened in ]»laces, and the sound is almost deafening. The large bush-flies, commonly called '•bull- dogs," are a dangerous enemy to domestic animals, and even the deer running wild in the forest are forced to take refuge in the water. Sometimes a deer, made CTazy by the attacks of these flies. Avill rush madly through the cami)-fire in its attemi)ts to reach the water. Deerskin at this time of year is l)erforated with holes and useless as leather. The flesh is also unfit for food owing to the worry and suff'ering of the deer. The flies eat through the hide and deposit their eggs in the flesh ; and thus render the poor animal nearly frantic with pain. LANGUA(}E AND INTERPRETERS. The Cree language has three slightly varying forms, the Plams, or ])ure Cree. the Woods Cree and the Swami)y Cree. The latter is the language of the Indians u])on my mission field. The Cree language is not only beautiful but sym metrical, showing a high degree of intelligence among the Indians at some time in the past. It has eleven conjugations and is agglutinative. — a language of the verb. Learning it is slow work and it recjuires years of patient ett'ort to l»ecome sufficient- Iv familiar with its forms to be able to jn-eacli a (iLIMPSKS OF TIIK NOKTIILAXD ."3 ]>rnct cal soi-mon in Cveo. In tlie nienntinie an in- tor|>rotoi' must he enijiloyod, and <»<)od interprotoi-s arc in demand. A\'li(Mi Kcv. ^Ii'. Ste\('ns was missionarv at Ox- fold House, he wished his intei'i)i'eter to render in ('ree these words, ''The seed that the ai)Ostles sowed took root." The interpreter rendered it thus, "I saw the a{)ostles and they had long roots.'' His English for "saw" was "seed," and thus the mistake was made. My interpreter could not interpret the hours of the day. nor numbers above eight or ten ; and so "The twelve a])ostles'' became in Cree, "The many a]»ostles;" mistakes of this kind rendered it neces- sary for me to be very careful in })reaching. Hi translating the Scrijitures there were unusual difficulties in the way. "Crown" was rendered *'hat;" "chariot," "dogsled ;" and other exju-essions were rendered in the best manner ])Ossil)]e. Being an American. T was called by the hidians. ''Keeche mokiman." or "the long knife." This term was a])i>]ied to the early American traders, and still serves as a mark to distinguish them from other nationalities. A missionary is an "ayuni ehayweke- mow." or ]>raying man. A school teacher is termed ''kisskenohomatowekemow." The cardinal numbers are "Payuk, neso. neslo. iiayo. nealmun. nekwotwa- sik. tay]»:ikupt. ahyoeiiahuayoo. kaykat melahtut and metahtut. no.MKSTir 1.1 FK. In his iiatixc state it is custniiuii-.N for a man to have two or more wives; and when i-eceiving vis n4 GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND itors each wife is assigned to her proper place, the first or the favorite wife being stationed nearest the luisband. Tn former times the lot of women was a hard one, and abuse and hard work were her daily por- tion. Thanks to the glorions light of the gospel that now shines in the darkened wigwams of the North- land, polygamy is banished and woman is gradually taking her place as the hel])-meet — not the slave — of man. I constantly urged the women to pray in ])ublic. and so take part in the services. I finally succeeded, to the sur])rise of all. Indian parents are very affectionate; and ])as- sionate grief is manifested at the death of a child. While love sliows itself in many ways, yet the test of love, the very essence of affection, is evidenced by the conscientious training of the child by parents. "Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth ;" and this ])rincii)le may be a]>i»lied to ])arents with reference to their children. Indian ])arents seldom punish their children unless acting under the influence of unreasoning anger. Hence tlie child becomes the master and grows uj) without love for ])arents or home. Sometimes an Indian marries for love, but more often for convenience or for fancy. Many of the young women and young men are handsome and well formed. A ]»eculiar flirtation is carried on by the Indian belles. With shawls covering their heads and faces they await tlie coming of a possible vie- fim : then pnrtially Avithdrawing the shawl from the face, a smile is disclosed that ''will not come off," and n ])air of gonuiuo "goo goo." or supposedly bo GLIMl'SES OF THE -NUKTIILAXD 55 Avitoliino- eyes, are seen in motion ; tlie shawl is (Innvn back to its place and the swain is supposed to be captured for life. 1 have noticed a similar method employed by our American maidens. The staple article of food for an Indian is tish the year round. Whitefish is the best, but when whitefish cannot be obtained, ]>ickerel, suckers and lake trout are used. This diet is varied by game of different descriptions, and moose and deer meat, and the tlesh of the beaver, lynx, rabbit, muskrat, wood- chuck, bear, skunk, owl, hawk, partridge, crow, gull and other birds and animals is often used to keep starvation away. I have partaken of all of the above excej)ting the flesh of the hawk and crow. In cases of absolute necessity the fiesh of the mink, otter, martin and fisher is eaten. Whenever possible the Indian secures a small quantity of flour, tea, bacon, tobacco and sugar from the trader, but these with the exce])tion of tea and tobacco are considered luxuries beyond their reach. Indian bread is made by mixing flour and water, and baking before a slow fire in a frying pan, or on a forked or crooked stick. AA'hen procurable, a little baking soda and fish oil is added. For lights in the long winter's evenings, the In- dian uses fish oil lamps, or candles, when be can get them. Spare moments at home in tlu^ wigwam, and often when traveling, are used by the women in working beautiful embroidei-y on deer skin. In most of this work the buttonhole stitch is used. r.a (JMMl'SES OF THE NORTHLAND altlioujih often the chaiu stitch and otliei- forms of (Miil)roid(M-v may be seeu among them. HUNTING AND TRAPPING. The Cree and Salteaux Indian is a hunter by birth and occupation. Generations of training have rendered the hunter's instinct remarkably strong within him. In certain localities near all of the posts great numbers of rabbits and partridges are killed. The rabbits are eaten and their skins are made into downy robes, the bedding of the North. Sometimes between six and seven hundred rabbit skins are used in making one robe. The i)artridges are of several \arieties, the rulfed grouse, the ]>iii- nated grouse or ]>i-airie chicken, the sj»ruce part- ridge and the ptarmigan. In fall and springtime ducks are fairly numerous, and geese and swans are occasionally seen. Large game is becoming scarce. INIany moose are killed between Oxford House and Norway House, and some few deer are shot in the vicinity of Island Lake, Cross Lake and Norway House, and occasion- ally one at Oxford House and God's Lake. IMost of the deerskin for silk work or other use is brought from York Factory and is the hide of the cariboo or reindeer. A moose hunt is a serious affair. The trail of a moose may be followed for days, and when night comes on no fire may be lighted. The food must be eaten in a frozen condition, and the weary hunters must lie down in their icy clothing and Avear away the long hours of darkness. The moose is of very OMMI'SKS OF TIIIO \OKTIILAM) r,7 koeii seen! Jiiid no siuoko must sully tlio clpar iit- nu)si»hoi'o widiiii the radius of several miles or Mr. Moose will make tracks for another eounti-.v. I're- (jueutly in the summer moose and deer are over taken and killed in the waler to which they have re- sorted to escape the myriads of flies and mosquitos. ^Mooseskin and deerskin is used for moccasins and gloves; the Hesh is used for food, the sinews for thread, the bladder and airsack for dishes in which to carry fish-oil, and even the hoofs and horns are burned and then eaten. Thus nothing goes to waste. The work of the Indian is to trap or shoot such animals as are valuable for their fur. and to prop- erly prei)are Ihis fm- for the market. So with a i)ack u])on his back he starts off for a distant hunting- ground, i-eiurniug after numy days, bronzed by ex- posure to storm, often worn to a skeleton by starva- tion, but usually bringing with him a pack of valu- able furs. In the depths of the forests he sets his lynx snares. Along the streams he arranges his deadfalls, and on the indented shores of the lakes he leaves his fox traj>s. Several varieties of the fox are obtained from this country. The red and cross foxes are the most numerous, but a few Ijlack. white and silver foxes are annually taken. Mink, muskrat. beaver, lynx, otter, ermine and martin are (piite ])lentiful and a few fisher, wolverine, skunk and wolf skins are also brought in. The life of Ihe trapper is a precarious one and often the catch of fur is small. TKirs alonp:. During Ihe <'j)idemic of scai-lel fever at Oxford 58 GLIMPSES OF THE NORTHLAND House, Mhile scliool and church were closed to pre- serve quarantine rejiuhitions, I made several trips down the old Deer's Lake trail in the direcition of Hudson's Bay. I went alone, dragging a small sled containing my bedding, cooking utensils, gun, traps, etc. On these journey's I became accustomed to the silence of the Korthern woods. I loved to be alone with nature and with nature's God. Frequently when many miles from home and a cold, stormy night coming on, I have felt a dread creeping over me and became fearful that I might not be able to find dry wood to build a fire, or fearful lest the new snowfall might obscure the trail ; for to be lost in the Northern wilderness is to meet a fate worse than death. But when the glorious beams of the morn- ing's sun lighted lake and forest, and all nature seemed to smile with joy as it wakened into life. I cried," Away with melancholy, for God still lives." During the latter part of ]March I went to God's Lake alone, drawing a sled the entire distance of forty-five miles and return. My load weighed over one hundred and fifty i)Ounds, and at least one-half the distance was across barren })ortages where the snow had been blown from the trail, leaving bare gi'ound over which to haul my loaded sled. The trip was accomi)lished in four days, spending one day at God's Lake, thus making the distance of over ninety miles in three days, with my heavy load. T camj)ed alone in the forest, taking photogi'aphs en- route. TT])On my return the trader remarked how much better and healthier I looked after making this journey. While at Norwav House it became necessary for GLIMPSES OF THE NOHTIILANn r,U iiie tt) go to Warreu's Landiii}^, a distance of twentv five miles. As I could not secure an Indian s'^'t^*'. ' harnessed my dogs and started alone in the midst of a heavy snow storm. 1 had been over this road but once before, and that once in a cariole, well cov red with rabbit robes, and of course had not ob served the landmarks along the way. I was sol- BETUBNING FROM A TKIP ALONE. emnly warned l»y both traders and missionaries not to make this tri]) alone; but men were scarce and the circumstances were pressing, so I heeded not tli<' warnings, but started. Without difticulty I found the trail and reached Warren's ]>anding in a siiori time. The next day the storm became a howling blizzard and as I headed my ulling hard, their tongues hanging from their mouths and their eyes constantly blinking as the icy particles sti'uck them in the face. I ]>]ied my whip continually, and shout- ed until I was hoarse ; but of no avail ; my dogs were overloaded and night was ui)on us with fifteen miles of dreary swamp yet before us. As we entered this region I felt as though the motto Avere engraved u]»- on the dwarfed ]);ne trees, "Leave all hope ye who enter liere;'' for not a sign of a road could be seen; all lay in dreary sameness before us, as the snow Avhirling in mid-air formed si)ectral sha]>es in the semi-darkness. To add to the dangers my dogs began to give out and would lie down. This rendered it necessary to i)ly the wliii) even more cruelly. How hard it seemed to thus Avhij) the poor dogs when I knew that they were doing their very best, and it was with almost tearful eyes and des]»airing heart that T rained blow after blow u]»on the quivering sides of my Eskimo sled dog. He was only ten months old. and was tired. He had yet to learn that sled dogs' must pull hard, even when ready to droj) with ex- haustion. Time after time T whipi)ed him U]» when he had fallen in the snow. It was only by dint of laborious eilort that I was able to keep on my feet, for T was tired and slee])y. How inviting the fresh ly fallen snow appeared, and how T longed to throw myself upon its snowy bosom and rest — sleep and (;i.i.Mi'si;s Of I'lii: nouihi.am* ci (h-eain of tlowery fields nnd breezes laden willi the scent (if new mown liiiv. T.iit still the snow- drifted and the wnd moaned anions the tr(M' tojis. y\\ do<;s had ceased to cry ont al the criiel lasliiiiii and the dull blows of the whi|t and the hoarse words of command seemed out of liai-mouy with the weiret me haste to that land AVith the blest word of life At my Savior's conunand. For there in the chill 'Neath the cold Northern Lights, Dwells a suffering race Who have God-given rights : Tho' neglected, forsaken, forgotten, well-nigh. They cry for the gospel ; then despairing, they die : With that cry on their lii)s They are laid 'neath the sod ; And tlieir blood is on you. Oh, ye Church of our (Jod I By your hearths, warm and bright, In a God-favored land You linger at home Despite (iod's command, — Go ye forth to all lands: in my name ye shall go: And here j'e are lingering: why is it so? Oh ! Church of our God, Ilark ye to the cry Of the lost Indian race As they suft"cr and die! The centuries roll And time flies apace : The church pays scaTit heal To this suffering race : — NOV 2 1905 fit (:limi'si:s oi" riii: xoirriii.AXi) She is huildiiifi tine cliuivlies. and training her choir Her preaeliers and singers are working for hire; No time for tlie heatlien : No funds to hestow. To save poor lost sinners ; Say Is it not so? But there in the chill "Neath the cold Northern Lights, Dwells a suiifering race Who have God-given rights ; — Tho' neglected, forsaken, forgotten, well-nigh, They cry for the gospel : then despairing they die : With that cry on their lips They are laid 'neath the sod ; And their blood is on you. Oh, ye Church of our God ! LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 111 mil mil mil mil ii 017 463 574 2