520 35 3y 1 The Maude Russell System of Garment Cutting TEXT BOOK Illustrated Published by MAUDE RUSSELL GARMENT CUTTING CO. Oklahoma City, Okla. (Copyright 1917, by Maude W. Russell) Oklahoma City, Okla. All Rilghts Reserved, Includiner the Right to Translate into Any and All Foreign Languages THE PUBLISHERS PRESS OKLAHOMA CITY.OKLA. INDEX Half-Tone of Mrs. Russell _..... 2 Open Letter 3 Preface 4 Cut of Entire System 5 Benefits of the Russell System 6 Advantag-es over all other Meth- ods or Systems 7 Description of Figure No. 1 8 Description of Figure No. 2 9 Description of Figure No. 3 10 Description of Figures Nos. 4 & 5 11 Description of Figures Nos. 6, 7 8 & 9 12 Description of Figures Nos. 10 & 11 13 Description of Figures Nos. 12 & 13 : 14 Taking Measurements 15 How Measurements are Taken for Dress 16-17 Measurement Blank and Cut of Figure 18 Measurements of Coat or jacket 19 Adjustment of the System 20-21 Waists 21 How to Make Plain Waist 21 Illustrations 22 How to Make Corset Covers... 23 Brassiere 23 French Lining 24 Mannish Shirt Waist 24 Drop Shoulder Waist 25 Butterfly Waist 26-27 Illustration of Pattern show- ing Raglan lines, Large Arm's eye, etc 27 Collars 28 Sailor Collar 29 Middy Collar 29 Round Collar 29 Fancy Collar 29 Collars Indicating Slight, Me- dium, and Extreme Roll 30 Military Collar 30 Collar and Vest 31 Collar and Tie 31 Sleeves 32 Plain Two-Piece Sleeve 32 Illustration of manner of lay- ing System on Material 32 Natural Dart Sleeve ci^'i Bishop Sleeve 34 Shirt Waist Sleeve • 34 Leg o' Mutton Sleeve 35 Cuffs 36 Skirt s 37 - 38 Directions for Cutting Two- Piece Skirts 39 Illustration of Pattern 40 Three-Piece Skirt 41 Illustration of Pattern 42 Four- Piece Skirt 43-44 Illustration of Pattern 44 Four-Piece Gathered Skirt 45 Illustration of System on Ma- terial 46 Illustration of Pattern 47 Five-Piece Skirt 47-48 Illustration of Pattern 49 Seven-Gore Skirt 50 Illustration of Pattern 51 Fifteen-Gore Skirt 52-53 Illustration of Pattern 53 Circular Skirt 54-55 Illustration of Pattern 55 Illustration of Four-Piece Cir- cular Skirt on Striped Ma- terial 56 Circular Plaited Skirt 57-58 Illustration of Foundation for Plaited Skirt 58 Circular Skirt with Ripple Flounces 59 - 60 Illustration of Skirt av i t h Flounces 60 Coats or Jackets 61 Plain Semi-Fitting Coats .: 62 Illustration of Pattern for Semi-Fitting Coat 63 Military Coat 64 Illustration of Pattern for Military Coat 65 Box Coat - 66 Illustration of Pattern for Box Coat 67 Princess Slip 68 Princess Slip Pattern 69 Teddy Bears 70 Illustration of Pattern for Teddy Bears 71 Night Gown 72 The Maude Russell System of Garment Cutting TEXT BOOK Illustrated Published by MAUDE RUSSELL GARMENT CUTTING CO. Oklahoma City, Okla. Copyright 1917, by Maude W. Russell) Oklahoma City, Okla. All Rights Reserved, Including the Right to Translate into Any and All Foreign Languages TTs3,o THE INVENTOR MAUDE W. RUSSELL / ICI.A455506 FEB 10 1917 / RUSSBLL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING An Open Letter to My Friends IN ISSUING this new Russell System Text Book, it is with the hope that . women everywhere will be enabled to overcome the many difficulties with which thev have heretofore been confronted in cuttino- and fitting- their own g-arments. The art of dressmaking- and tailoring embraces such a vast scope of knowl- edge that much of it is impracticable for use in the averag'e busy woman's life. For this reason my time and thought have been given to the invention and per- fecting of a system of cutting and fitting that is simple enough yet so practical that any woman can avail herself of its benefits and easily become her own designer and dressmaker. The work of making her own dresses, or garments for the other members of the familv, is a real pleasure to a woman when she is certain of good re- sults which can always be obtained with the Russell System and the knowledge of how to use it. A great advantage, too in ha\'ing a Russell System in the home is that the daughters, even at the age of ten or twelve years, can easily be taught to cut perfect fitting patterns and make their own garments. The instructions have been made so plain and the Russell System is so easil}^ adjusted to individual measurements that no woman need experience any trouble whatever in getting complete knowledge of the work from this book. By the use of this text book the woman in the country home can have the same advantages as her city sister and can equip herself to make not only her plain dresses and house gowns but she can also select and reproduce gar- ments having the same dash, style and individuality as the more costly tailored gowns. Should there be anything about the use of the System or any problem in dressmaking that you do not understand I shall be glad to receive a personal letter from you, stating your problem, and I will assist you in overcoming such difficulties or answer any question you may ask relative to the work. It is ni}^ desire to render vou all the assistance possible to make your work with the Russell System both a pleasure and a success. Believe me to be, Yours very truly, Maude W. Russell. RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING PREFACE EN THE YEAR 1904 Maude W. Russell established herself as a dressmaker and ladies' tailor and continued this line of work until 1910. During these years of experience she realized how essential it was to the success of her work to have a system of pattern cutting that would simplify the methods of dressmaking then in use. In 1910, she began to teach dressmaking and then realized more than ever the necessity of having some method of pattern cutting which all could readily understand. With the idea of solving this problem she continued her work and finally brought all of the knowledge and principles which she had acquired from her practical experience into use in perfecting the model of the Maude Russell System of Garment Cutting. After much experimenting and careful tests, she perfected this wonder- ful, adjustable pattern cutting system. This she offered to the public believ- ing that its use would prove a great blessing not only to those who are com- pelled to earn their livelihood by sewing but to every woman w^ho desires to be well dressed at the least possible expenditure of time, trouble and money. The Russell System has proved its worth by every practical test ever made of it and we are pleased to say that the approval which it has received from the public more than justifies the faith of the inventor in the superiority of her System over any other method of pattern cutting. THE MAUDE RUSSELL GARMENT CUTTING CO. Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, Feb. 1,1917. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Benefits of the Russell System TAILORIXCz AXD DRESSMAKING have become of such g-rave import- ance to the American woman, that there is no lono-er any doubt that they are the most elaborate and becomin.s^ly dressed women in the world. With the sudden chano-es of style from one season to another and the high cost of ready-to-wear orarments women everywhere have come to realize how essential it is to their education to have sufficient knowled.s^e of garment cutting and dress-makino- to enable them to make their own gowns as well as their plain house dresses. Those of limited means find it impossible to dress with the exquisite style displayed today, unless they are familiar with the advantages ofifered by the Russell Svstem. Those who employ others to do their dressmaking are always able to distinguish any mis-fit or bad Hues in the garment, but often the dress- maker as well as her patron is unable to remedy such defects, because they are usuallv due to imi)erfect patterns. ]\Iaude W. Russell, the inventor of this New Method of l/arment Cutting, is a dress-maker and tailoress of great experience, and after years of operating- dress-making parlors and schools has given to the i)ul3lic the only perfect gar- ment cutting svstem ever invented. No time, trouble or expense has been spared by her in perfecting this System, which is without doubt superior in simplicity and accuracy to anything of its kind in use today. After having been thoroughly tested by many experts the Russell Sys- tem has not been found wanting in any particular and with the frequent change of stvles the System has Ijecome of indispensible value to even the most talented dress-makers. The invention consists of a series of templets or forms which may be ma- nipulated readilv bv any person whether or not they are skilled in the art of dress-making. ]{ach of the forms or templets is adjusted independently of the others, and the adjustment of any one part does not interfere with the ad- justment of anv other part. It is unnecessary for the operator to relv ui)on judgment or skih, as the operation of shaping the garment correctly to conform to the figure of the wearer is purelv a mechanical one. The only care required on the^part of the operator is in the taking of measurements and adjusting the System in ac- cordance witli instructions. After a little ])ractice this will become very easy for the operator. Remember that correct patterns can l,e cut onlv l)v cor- rect measurements. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Advantages Over All Other Methods or Systems 1. Each and every part of this System may be adjusted independently of any other part. 2. Regardless of size or form, there is positively no misfit at collar, shoul- der, arm's eye, chest, hip, bust, or waist. 3. There is no part of this System that does not do its own work. Those using- the System do not have to rely upon their own judgment for any correct result, as the System makes all calculations when set to proper measurements. 4. Each and every adjustment on the System complies exactly in measure- ment and form with the name of the part you are to adjust, written plainly on the System. 5. To teachers as well as pupils it is the greatest time saver in use today, as there is not a screw moved or an adjustment made that changes or as- sists in any other adjustment. 6. It is so simple and accurate that a person using the measurement blank as a guide should not make any mistakes after taking measurements cor- rectly. 7. This is the only System known to the inventor that requires no drafting whatever. The perfect accuracy of this System and the fact that it allows for seams, saves time and material. 8. There is nothing to get out of order even if constantly used, and no clamp or screw causes any strain on the material. 9. It does not take a skilled dress- maker to use this System. Any one with the slightest experience in sewing can make a success using this method of cutting. 10. Even children of ten years or more can be readily taught to use this System successfully. 11. The Russell System is the only one in this country or any other by which you can cut every garment from the most exquisite gown to the simplest dresses and underwear without the aid of drafting. 12. This Svstem conforms to all individual measurements, giving the length of the form up and down as well as around. It makes every line and curve of neck, chest, bust, waist, hip, and bottom of skirt comply with the form, giving those wnth irregular forms the same comfort and style as one who has a perfect form. 13. This System does away with the old time work of drafting and study- ing necessary to make your own allowances. It contains the whole art of drafting within itself. Should you lay it aside for years its sirii- plicitv will always enable you to use it for any style garment that may be in voo"ue. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Description of Figures No detailed explanation of the use of the System is attempted here. Only a sufficient explanation is q-Iven to show the main purpose of the various parts, as illustrated by the fii^-ures shown herein. Figure No. i represents the ruler used for strai,8;htenin_o- long- seams. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Figure No. 2 shows first skirt section used in cuttino- front and back panels and narrow g'ores. Any desired length of skirt can be cut by adjustino- the hem g'auge to the length desired. 10 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Figure No. 3 is used to cut any skirt from two piece to any de- sired number of ,^"ores. It is also used in cutting- yokes, draperies, tunics and flounces. The break in the hip line shows how the ad- justment can be made allowing' flare in full skirts. Leno-th of skirts is determined by adjusting- hem o-auge as in figure Xo. 2. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 11 Figure No. 4 represents the square which is used more than any other part of the System. With it we shape all the different style necks both in under and outer wear; also, back and front of w^aists at lower ed,8:e. It can be used to measure any size tuck or plait and gives any decided curve that may be necessary for a line of trimming'. Figure No. s shows the front of the waist. Tio'ht-fitting- waists or lining-s may be cut by taking out space between dart perfora- tions. 12 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Figure No. 8 shows the coat or jacket collar. It adjusts to size de- sired and by using' perforations either round or square corners may be made. Figure No. 6 shows back of waist. Figure No. 7 sliows collar of waist and is adiustal)lc to any neck. Figure No. g shows the sleeve which can be adjusted for any o-arment. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 13 Figure No. io shows the front of Coat System. As wih be seen it is perforated for either sing-le or double breast and three different sizes of lapels. Center front is one inch in from sino-le breast. Figure No. ii shows the front side bodv of coat or jacket. 14 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Figure No. 12 sliows the under arm section of the back of coat svstem. Figure No. i :; sliows center back section for liack of coat. Jf throiii^h accident any part of the Svstem shonld l)e l)roken or lost, it may be replaced by enclosino; the damaj^^ed piece, or a descri])tion of it, with ten cents to the Maude Russell Co., Jopiin, Mo., and the i^iece will be re- placed. For screws with washers send five cents each. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 15 Taking Measurements CORRECTNESS in measurement taking- is higiily important. This may seem strange but nothing is of more vakie in pattern cutting- than the knowledge of how to take measurements properly. Measurements are the foundation of the pattern, so you readily see if the measurements have been taken care- lessly or incorrectly the pattern will be ruined. It is essential for success in pattern cutting that a study be made of dif- ferent fig'ures before one can know just how measurements should be taken. For instance two fi.gures may have the same bust measure and be entirely unlike in appearance. One may have a prominent bust and narrow flat back, while the other may have larg-e shoulder blades and be broad and flat in the front. But patterns must be made to fit these respective forms. This can be done by careful study. Each figure has distinct lines and one of the reasons why our System is superior to any other is the fact that each indi- vidual fig-ure may be properly fitted by merely adjusting- a screw here and there to meet the demands of the fig-ure in question. Taking measurements depends also g-reatly on style. If the style of gar- ment worn is loose and full, measurements should be taken to correspond; while if severely tig'ht fitting- garments are the prevailing mode, measure- ments must be taken accordingly. In either case care should be taken that the finished garment will follow the line of fashion. Constant reference should be made to the forms in this book, which show the exact places on the figure where these measurements should be taken. It is well to memorize the list of measurements given, so that you may be independent of the measurement pads. Practice taking measure- ments until you are familiar with every detail. It is well to take the measurements. of as many different figures as possible, as this assists in your study of lines. It is unwise to give any heed to the seams in the garment worn by the person whose measure is being taken, as they may or may not be correctly placed. First place a tape line around the body at the waist line, allowing the person whose measurement is being taken to adjust the tape line to position, as in that case there is no guess work as to the location of the waist line. Whether or not the person whose measurements are being taken is longer in the front than in the back the tape should be made to dip slightly toward the front as this always insures a better figure. All waist measurements are taken to the lozuer edcre of this tape; skirt measurements are taken from the top edge of the tape placed around the waist. As the measurements are being taken, write them on the measurement pad in the order suggested. Set the adjustable parts of the System to the num- bers indicated on the pad. Persons who are taking measures should stand at the side or back of the one whose measurements are being taken. Never insert fingers under tape line while taking the measurements except at arms eye, where three fingers are placed under tape to insure proper size. 16 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING It is unnecessary to make any allowance for seams, as the System al- lows % of an inch on all outside edg-es. This is the standard seam al- lowance and should a laro-er seam be desired it must l)e allowed for when cuttino- the pattern. This will be needed however only in those materials that are loosely woven or ravel easily. How Measurements Are Taken 1. Neck at top is taken by placing i3.pe around top of neck comfortably. • 2. Neck joinino- waist is taken at base of neck, l)rino-ino- tape well down in front, following line where waist should join collar. 3. Heighth of collar, record both front and back measurements. 4. Shoulder seam is taken from base of neck to length desired. Care must be taken to place tape high enough on neck to meet collar line. The length of the shoulder varies with the changing style. Always take into consideration the style of the garment to be made and the be- comingness of the particular style to the figure. V Chest width is taken across the chest, from arms eye to arms eye, 2 inches down from shoulder point. This measurement should, in normal figures, be al)out 10 inches wider than shoulder length; for instance, if the shoulder line is 6 inches the chest width will probably be 16 inches. Should one be stooped in the shoulders and narrow in the chest, make the chest width as great as possil;)Ie to be becoming, as it will improve the figure. 6. Front length is taken by placing tai)e measure at hollow at base of neck in front, ])eing careful to place it liigh enough to meet collar line. Allow the tape to extend down center front to bottom of tape placed around waist. 7. Bust is taken by placing tape around fullest i^art of the bust in front, bring around under arm to center l^ack, allowing tape to slant upward 2 inches at this point. Bust measure will be larger than usuallv used in ordering commercial patterns. Remember the surplus will be taken up as the Svstem allows for seams. 8. Back width is taken the same as chest width and is a verv necessary measurement. In normal figures this measurement is usually slightly less than the chest width. If the chest width is 16 this measurement will proba1)ly be 15. If one stands erect or if one has verv i:)rominent 1)ust lines it may vary more than that. Care should be taken that this nieasurement be wide enough to insure good lines in the garment to be made. Should one be stooped in the shoulders, the back width will be more than the chest width. Be sure that your measurements do not emphasize this abnormal condition. 9. Back length is taken by placing tape on prominent bone at base of neck at back and allowing it to extend down center back to bottom of tape that has been placed about the waist. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 17 10. Under arm is taken by placing- tape on center under arms eye extend- ing" it to bottom of tape placed about waist. This measurement is im- portant. 11. For waist measure place tape around waist at exact waist line. 12. Arms eve — Place tape around arm at laro-est part of arm, bring-ing- it up to where shoulder seam is to be. Be sure that this measurement is comfortable but not too large. Place three fingers under tape to insure ease. 13. Arm around below elbow. Place tape around the arm at largest place ])elow elbow. 14. Wrist around. If taken for tight fitting sleeve tape should be placed around wrist over prominent wrist-bone. If for sleeve to be slipped over hand, measurement should be taken around knuckles. Butterfly sleeves should be made slightly larg-er at hand than other sleeves to g'ive ease in raising" the arm. 15. Shoulder to elbows Place tape on arm's eve to meet back width meas- urement and bring- down to elbow ]:)oint. 16. Elbow to wrist. Place tape on elbow point, allowing it to extend down to first crease below prominent wrist-bone. 17. Hip length is taken from top of tape placed around the waist down to larg-est part of hip, which varies with dififerent fig'ures, and on some fig-ures may be only six inches down while on others it mav lie ten or twelve inches down from the waist. 18. Hip around is taken around largest part of hip. Place tape around body comfortably and add three inches for ease in sitting. If hip should measure forty inches proper hip-around measurement for set- ting system will be forty-three niches. 19. Front length. Place tape at top of tape-around-waist, allowing it to extend down center to floor. To set system decide upon the number of inches one wishes the finished garment to be from the floor and subtract this amount from the skirt length taken. Set the top of hem gauge at this number. This will give proper length of skirt. 20. First skirt length over hip. Place tape at top of tape-line around-the- waist one-third of the way from center front to center back, or at first hip curve, and allow it to extend dowai to floor. 21. Second skirt length over hip. Place tape at top of tape-around-waist two-thirds of the way around from center front to center back, or over large hip swxll, and allow it to extend dow^i to floor. Back leno-th is taken from top of tape-around-waist, down center back to floor. Should vou drop below waist line in taking this measure fit of skirt will be ruined. In case one is slightly stooped, it is well to allow one inch on this measurement as one ordinarilv stands more nearly erect while measurements are being taken. 22. 18 RUSSBLL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Measurement Blank Neck at Top Neck Joining Waist •Height of Collar. Front Back.. Shoulder Seam Chest Front Length Bust Back Width Back Length Under Arm Waist ; Arm's-eye Arm Around Below Elbow Wrist Around Shoulder to Elbow Elbow to Wrist. Hip Leno^th Hip Around Front Length of Skirt 1st. Skirt Length over Hip 2n(!. Skirt Length over Hip Back Length of Skirt Study the above figures carefully and take \our measurements on the lines above indicated. FOR Cr)ATS ADD Shoulder to Bust _ Bust to Waist RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING ■ 19 Measurements for Coat or Jacket MEASUREMENTS for coat are taken snug-ly or exactly as the form is. No allowance should be made in any measure, as the coat system is regu- lated to allow all the surplus necessary. This is a semi-fitting pattern, and should one wish to make a tight-fitting garment the waist size must be set four spaces smaller. That is, if the waist measurement is twenty-eight inches and one wishes the coat to be tight-fitting the System should be set to twenty- four at the waist strap on each of the coat pieces. 1. Neck measurement is taken by placing tape around base of neck. This measurement should be taken over collar. 2. Shoulder length is taken by placing tape at neck, allowing it to extend straight on shoulder to arm's-eve. Care should be taken to place tape high enough at base of neck to meet collar line. 3. Chest width is taken by placing tape from arm's-eye to opposite arm's-eye two inches down from shoulder point. 4. Front length is taken from center front collar line to waist line. 5. Bust is taken by placing tape around at fullest part of bust in front and allowing it to extend around body and raise two inches in back. 6. Back width is taken by placing tape on prominent bone at base of neck and extending down center of back to waist line. 7. Under arm is taken by placing tape on center arm's-eye and allowing it to extend to waist line. This measurement should be taken with arm hanging in natural position as there is danger of ruining fit of coat should the curve at waist be made too low. 8. Arm's-eye is taken by placing tape around largest part of arm and bringing it up to shoulder seam. Insert three fingers under tape when taking this measure to insure ease. 9. Waist measure is taken by placing tape around waist line. 10. Hip length is taken directly over hip curve from waist line to largest part of hip. Length of coat may be taken in this way. 11. Hip around is taken by placing tape around the largest part of hip. Nothing is added to this measure as all extra fulness is allowed on the System. 12. Shoulder to bust is taken by placing tape half way between neck and shoulder point on shoulder line and bringing down to bust point. 13. Bust to waist is taken by placing tape on bust point and bringing down to waist line. N. B. The last two measurements are very important, as a change of corset invariably changes bust line. Should these measurements be taken in an incorrect manner the fit of the coat will be spoiled. 14. Sleeve measurements for coat should be taken the same as for dress, but the System should be set two spaces larger than for dress. This applies to all measurements for coat sleeves. This is done for the reason that the coat sleeve is worn over the dress sleeve. 15. After measurements have been carefully taken and the System adjusted to conform to same, material can safely be cut, as all due allowance has been made for seams ; however, in extreme or decided style, we would suggest that a paper pattern be cut, in order to determine whether or not the style is becoming to the figure. N. B. Record your measurements in the order above on your measurement blank, being careful to follow the lines indicated on figures shown on page 18. 20 RUSSELL S Y STEM OF GARMENT CUTTING _ Adjustment of the System DT IS WELL to first take the time to familiarize yourself with the manipula- tion of the System. In a short time this becomes as easy and convenient for the housewife as does the runnino^ of the sewinq- machine, or handling of culinary articles in o^eneral. This System is so simple that children of lo years or more learn the manipulation very c|uickly. Each measurement re- ferred to herein is printed plainly on the System. The System is adjusted by first loosenino- all of the set screws and then movino- up the adjustable portions to the numliers correspondiujs^ to the list of measurements you have taken and recorded on the measurement pad. For instance, if the waist Svstem is to be adjusted, take the front and loosen all screws, then adjust the neck, shoulder, arm's-eye, chest, bust, leng-th under arm. and waist measures in the order named. Back of waist is set in same manner. Carefully notice that -there are two places on the back for the adjustment of bust size, also two places for the adjustment of waist size. Should you desire a tiolit-fittino^ o-arment, ad- just at waist line to re.^-ular waist measure. If fullness is desired at waist line as in shirtwaists and blouses of dififerent styles, spread at waist line to the full extent of System. This will allow the desired fullness. Sleeve is ^set first at arm's-eye, then lensth from shoulder to elbow, arm around, leno-th from elbow to wrist and wrist around. The waist and skirt are set with the fio'ure indicatin,^ the measurement on the outside of the adjustable portion. On the coat the reverse is true and the Svstem is set with the fio-ure indicatino- the measurement on the in- side of the adjustable portion of same. Do not fail to rememl3er this when adjustino;" the System. The Skirt System should be set first at waist size, hip leno-th, hip around leno-th of skirt and width desired in the order named. The Skirt Rule is used for straio-htenino- up lono- seams in kimnnas, lono- o-owns, etc. The narrow skirt section is used for cuttino- panels and all narrow o'ores. This piece of the Skirt System is used also in making- the circular flounce patterns. The wide skirt section of the System is used for cutting any wide gore as for two, three or four-piece skirts. This piece is arranged so that should skirts, which have a decided flare from the knee again become popular, they can be properly cut by this Svstem, as you will notice the out- side portion of the System is hinged for that i^urpose. In fact, any style of skirt, wliethcr narrow or wide, may be made without difficulty. .1 before cutting any patterns study carefully all of the accompanying illustrations, thus eliminating any difficultv that mio-Jit otherwise l)e met. The greatest recommendation of this Svstem is its simplicity. As it is only an adjustable pattern, anyone who can use patterns can use it, and it fits the familv. It may ])e used for the simplest house gown or the most elaborate ball or dinner gown. Everything from school froclcs to trousseaux may l)e fashioned with the System. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 21 It is well to practice in the use of this System by cutting all patterns in the order arrano-ed in this instruction book, as in this way one is led step by step throug-h the entire System and each lesson learned is a stepping stone for the next. It is possible to purchase plain wrapping paper at small cost; this is to be used in the practice of cutting patterns. The larger scraps and patterns may be used again for cutting other small patterns. Do not fail to study suggestions and illustrations carefully before pro- ceeding to cut the pattern. Illustrations are given herein showing the posi- tion of the System as laid on paper or material, also the finished pattern. To assure success we suggest that the paper patterns be pinned up and fitted before the garment is cut, at least until one has acquired an excellent knowl- edge of measurement taking, as this is the foundation of good patterns. Remember that in pattern and garment cutting, as in all other things, proficiency is acquired by constant and thorough practice. Plain Waists To make a plain waist, loosen all screws in the front and back of waist System and adjust to the proper measurements, following carefully the meas- urements recorded on the measurement pad. After adjustment has been completed lay front of waist System with the center front line on the straight edge of the material, mark around, carefully dotting the length in front and marking the proper length under arm. Remove System and shape lower edge of waist by j^lacing square on mark indicating length of under arm, allowing it to reach dot indicating length of front. For this purpose always use the curved edge of square and mark ac- cordingly. 9? RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING To cut back of plain waist: Adjust back section of waist System to desired measurements, spreading- at waist line for fullness. Lay center back on straig-ht fold of material ; mark around neck, down shoulder, around arm's- eye, down under arm and across bottom. Cut on these lines. Should a longer line be necessary directly over bust curve, move square back toward under arm. This is always essential when one has a pro- nounced bust. U5e of ^oaare. If .s^arment is to have hem in front fold over material to indicate width of hem and lay the Svstem with the center front line meeting- center line of hem, or half way over hem. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 23 Corset Covers To make corset cover first cut plain waist pattern. Cut out yoke line to any desired shape — round, V-neck, square, etc. Cut off one inch of out- side shoulder edg-e, both front and back, to prevent straps from slipping down over the shoulder. Make the straps two inches wide, more or less, as desired. Fancy corset covers are made from this plain draft. Cut 3^oke to any desired shape and trim in any manner you wish. Study illustration. B rassiere In order to make a brassiere, first make a plain waist pattern, being- careful to indicate dart lines. For persons with large busts and slender waists it is -necessarv to cut oft" front dart as well as side darts. This gives a curved fitted line down front. Remember that all seam allow- ance has been made, cut exactly on lines. The dart to be taken out in the back depends on the point of waist adjustment in width and extends six or eight inches up center back. Take one inch off the shoul- der as for corset co\er, and shape yoke as desired. If there should be too much fullness at waist line take the amount off of the under arm of front only. (See illustration.) 24 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING French Lining Set System for plain waist, mark round Sys- tem, mark dart perfora- tions in front and mark dart in center back. Re- move System. S li a p e lower edge of waist as indicated, using- square. Use square to make slightly curved line from center of the shoulder line to top of middle dart. Take out double the amount of this dart at the lower edge. Cut off front dart and leave the third dart as the amount of this dart was taken out with the second dart. Tn the back, mark dart for center back. Place a mark two and one-half inches over from this dart line at the lower edge. Draw slightly curved line from the center of the shoulder line to the mark at the bottom, using square. Alwavs use the square to make the^e lines, as it gives the proper curve for a well-fitting pattern. Study illustration^ carefully. Follow lines suggested. This lining is used for all tight-fitting waists where lining is necessary, and is also used for foundation linings. Mav 1)e used as the foundation for fitted brassieres. Cut off' front dart if necessary. Cut on lines indicated in illustration. Al- wavs allow for seams where pattern has been cut. Mannish Shirt Waist To cut mannish shirt waist adjust System to measurements indicated on measurement pad. Mark out plain waist pattern. Measure one incli longer on shoulder line and down one inch from arm's-eye on under-arm Hue. vSlia]x^ arm's-eye with s(|uare. In ail waists or l)louses where fullness is desired at waist line remember to spread back of sys- tem lo the fullest extent at waist. The shoulder and under arm of the middv blouse are made in the same wav as shirt waist. edge is to be determined bv indi- The length anc vidual taste. 1 fullness around lowjr RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING 25 Drop Shoulder Waist First, make plain waist pattern. Lap pattern for shoulder seams and measure 2V2 inches down from shoulder seam on front of pattern. This forms drop yoke. Cut on this line. If fullness is desired in the front of blouse allow from two to four inches to be jo'athered in at yoke line. Care should be taken in the adjustment of this fullness so that it may fall over fullest part of bust. Gathers should be ar- rano-ed between marking's one inch from neck line and 1V2 inches from arm's-eye. If low neck is preferred meas- ure down front the number of inches desired and shape neck with square. Study illustration. 26 RUSSELL S Y STEM OF G A R M ENT CUTTING Butterfly Waists Adjust System to correspond with resi^Tilar blouse measfirements, ex- cepting that it should be set one size lono-er at under-arm measurement. This is to o-ive ease when arm is raised. Spread System at waist line in back to allow as much fullness as possible, as butterfiv w^aists require more fullness than others. Lay System with center back on fold of material if waist it to have front closing-; if back closing is desired lay system with center fi-ont on fold of material. System should be placed with shoulders lapping three-eights of an inch at neck line and spread three inches at arm's-eye point. Mark around Sys- tem, mark front, back and under arm length. Lay square on front as indi- cated in illustration, squaring it with line under arm and corner where un- der-arm line and arm's-eye meet. Mark out to number six on curved side of square. Do the same w^ith the back, laying on square and marking out to number six as before. This is for short sleeve. IV/iy OF l/iy/A/G 3y3T£/^ O/V /^AiT£/?/AL FO/i A^^BUrrE/^FlY iVF)/ST To m.ake long sleeve: First get length by measuring from neck to shoul- der point, then to elbow point, next, from ell>ow to hand. Thus, if shoulder is six, elbow to shoulder twelve, elbow to wrist ten and one-half, the entire measure from nek will be twenty-eight and one-half inches. This point indi- cates sleeve length. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 27 Place square on lines already drawn, both back and front, as illustrated, and mark out to proper sleeve length. The surplus fullness at the hand may be either o-athered into cuff, left open as kimona sleeve, or taken out in a dart in the followincr manner: Measure from back line of sleeve over on lower edge of sleeve three and one-half inches; from this point measure on toward the front as many inches as required to leave proper wrist-around measurement, the width between these points will be the proper amount to take out in the dart. This -dart should run out iVt inches below elbow point and both lines of this dart must be of the same leng-th. Remember that butterfly sleeves should measure one inch larger at hand than other sleeves. This ^ives ease in raising- the arm and prevents tearing. Sleeve may be made by shaping at sides, eliminating- dart. Raglan sleeves are also made by this draft; following any one of dotted lines indicated on draft, being careful that lines meet exactly under arm. Large arm's-eye can be made by tracing from any given point under arm to any desired width on shoulder. Care must ahvays be taken that these lines meet under arm. 28 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Coll ars OLLARS of any style may be cut by this System. For stock or hio-h col- lars use the adjustable collar system. To cut any flat collar use the waist system; be sure the System is ad- justed to the correct neck measure of the one who is to wear the collar. Lay center back on fold of material and lay front System on with shoul- der line meetins: shoulder line of back. Mark around neck and down front to point as low as you wish finished neck to be. Mark shoulder point as a guide for shaping- collar. Remove System and with square shape outside edge in any desired manner; shape neck with square, from shoulder point, at collar line to point indicated down front. ^ Shou/der po/nt fo onc^ cJe- sired po/'nt RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Illustrations of Coll ars 29 30 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING If it is desired that collar roll in back follow dotted lines indicated in illnstration. Military collar and vest, roll collar and vest and collar and lie in one are cut with the System laid on the material as for butter-Hy waist; la|)i)ing- shonlders three-eig-hths of an incli at neck and sjireadino- three inches at arm's-eve. Center back shonld be on fold of material. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 31 Mark around neck and remove System. vSquare down front with straight side of neck. Measure down center back five inches; from this point measure across one-half neck measure. Draw Hue from the point indicatino- one-half neck measure down parallel with squared neck line. See illustration. Notice lines formino: collar and vest, also collar and tie. 32 RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING SI eeves DjlJST the sleeve system to measurements indicated on the measurement pad. makin.o- adjustments in the foHowin,"- order : Arm's-eye, shoul- der to elbow, both inside and outside as indicated bv letterino- on System, from elbow to wrist, both on inside and outside, arm around and wrist around. Sleeves have always more fullness than arm's-eye; this should be ar- rano-ed evenlv to .s^'ive ease to the fit of the sleeve. Sleeve is sewed in o-arment with front seam of sleeve one and one-half inches forward from under-arm seam. The following- directions are for i)lain sleeves, of different styles. Fancy sleeves of any type may be made from anv one of these plain drafts. Plain Two Piece Sleeve After sleeve S^^stem has been ad- justed to proper measurement lay the System on material with points at top and bottom on the straii^ht line of the material. Mark around Sys- tem. This makes upper sleeve por- tion. Turn system over, still keep- ino- points on straio-ht lines of ma- terial, mark inside, except at lower edo-e of sleeve, where it is necessary to mark outside to o-ive proper leno-th. TO CUT TWO P/ECE SLEEVi; Remove System ; measure up to ell)ow point, on back seam of under sleeve section and mark two inches above and two below. In makino- sleeve distrilnite wliatever fullness is tound in ui)i)er sleeve section in the si)ace ])etween these markino-s. This allows fullness for comfort in bend- in-^- arm at elbow. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 33 Natural Dart Sleeves After the sleeve system has been adjusted to ,the proper measurements lay system with front points on straight line of material. A/Tark around as be- fore. Turn system over, allowing' a small lap at arm's-eye, but only meet- ing line at elbow point. Mark inside except at lower edge where length must be made. ALSO BJJJiOP SL£XV£ /ndicotes u/ai^ of hc/infj s(j3tem on material Measure down one and one- half inches from elbow point. vShape dart from this point to lower edge of each sleeve section with square, as indicated in illus- tration. Cut on these lines. 34 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Bishop Sleeve Proceed as for natural dart sleeve. Instead of cutting- out space between upper and under sleeve sections for dart leave in and shape lower edg^e of sleeve with roundino- elbow part of sleeve system, as shown in illustration. Shirt Waist Sleeves Lay system on. following- directions for b i s h o p sleeve. Use square to straighten side seams from elbow curve to lower edge of sleeve; follow lines in- dicated in illustration. Measure over three a n d one-half inches from l)ack line of sleeve at lower edge and measure u p f o u r inches from this point for placket. Shape top as illus- trated. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 35 Leg o' Mutton Sleeve l£:C O' Mt/TTOJV SLEEVE To cut leo--o'-mutton sleeve adjust system to regailar measurements and lay on with front points on strai^'ht line of material. Mark around. To make under portion turn system over, lapping- the width of seam from hand to elbow. Mark inside except at hand. Shape top of sleeve as indicated in il- lustration. Illustration No. 27 shows finished pattern for leg-o'-mutton sleeve. As much fullness as is desired can be given at the upper part of the sleeve. yi RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Cuff Cuffs may be cut from any plain two-piece draft and shaped as desired. They may have either one or two seams; may be plain or pointed, in flare or open style. This is done by reproducing from l)lain draft. To maho caff u^ifh onlc^ one 3 eam - sGom to be of under arm RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 37 Skirts Ta)Y CAREFUL EXAMINATION of the skirt sections of this System you ^ will find that adjustment can be made at waist line, hip line, hip leno-th, skirt leno'th and skirt w^idth. Waist line adjustment can be set to one-half, one-fourth, one-fifth, one- seventh, etc., of actual waist measure, dependino-, of course, upon the number of pieces desired in the skirt. This also controls the hip line adjustment. The distance from the waist line to the laro^est part of hip controls the hip leng-th. Length of skirt is determined by placing- top of hem gauge (piece at lower part of skirt system) at number that indicates proper length of skirt. Mark at top and bottom of hem gauge ; this provides for a three inch hem and does away entirely with the old tiresome way of standing while skirt length is being adjusted. If adjustment has been properly made and lines followed correctly your skirt will hang evenlv if hem is turned on line indi- cated by upper edge of hem gauge. It is important that care be taken to see that the adjustment for the length is correct in all particulars. \Mdth of skirts depends upon the prevailing style and the choice of the individual. It is possible to make any desired adjustment in this regard. Skirts of any number of pieces may be cut from the system from one piece circular skirt to skirts having twentv-one gores. The Russell method of cutting skirts is superior to any other, for several reasons. It alwavs insures a skirt that hangs evenlv and with a perfect ripple, as there are no straight edges, except in the front and sometimes in the back. There are no sagging seams, as no seam edge is ever cut on an extreme bias, except in circular skirts. Commercial and standard patterns have always featured skirts with gores of varying width. With the Russell System the gores are all cut of equal size (except the front) and give beauty and symmetry to the figure. Not only the plain gored skirts l)ut any fancy skirt or overdrape, tunic, flounce or in fact anything in the nature of skirts can be cut by this sys- tem. Our plaited circular skirts have no bias lines to sag, every plait is on the straight of the material so that not onlv when new, but after the skirts have been worn, washed, cleaned and pressed, they still preserve that symme- try of line that appeals to every woman of good taste and discriminating judgment. As has been called to your attention elsewhere in this book, skirts of any style mav be cut bv this system, be thev wide or narrow. You will no- tice also bv examination of the wide skirt section that a clamp has been placed in the outside edge to arrange for cutting skirts which have a decided flare from the knee. So you see, no matter about the changing styles, no mat- ter what dame fashion may rule, we can still say, to paraphrase a little, "Modes may come and modes may go, but the Russell System goes on for- ever." 38 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 111 niarkino: around System be sure to mark at both top and bottom of both hip g'au.s^e and hem g-auge. S'houkl one care to have hip yoke or trimming at hip hne it is always con- venient and saves time to have hip length indicated. The top of hem gauge indicates actual length of skirt. The mark at the bottom gives the three inch hem to finish garment. There are no straight edges in the Russell System. In cutting gores, exce])ting front gores, for skirts up to and including five gores, lay System with lower front point on straight edge and swing waist point back four inches from edge. In cutting skirts having six to nine pieces, inclusive, lay System with lower front point on straight edge of material and swing System back at waist point two and one-half inches. In cutting skirts having ten or more pieces lay System on the material so that the center of each gore is on the straight line of the material. This gives excellent lines to the skirts and insures a perfect ripple over hip as well as in the back, prevents sagging seams and gives a general air of style to the garment that can be obtained in no other way. Refer constantlv to the illustrations that accompany each lesson. In this way you will avoid any mistake or miscalculation. Remember that good patterns depend upon the correct adjustment of the System, and that correct adjustment may be obtained only by means of per- fect measurement taking. In cutting skirts careful attention should be given to the adjustment of the System as to length. The average woman's skirt measurements are somewhat longer in the back and over the hips than in front. However, occasionally we find a fig- ure that requires the skirt to have greater length in front. Particularly is this true of figures having prominent abdomens, or of those who stand in a stooped manner. Be sure that when System is adjusted for cutting the various gores that correct and necessary adjustment is made in length, to correspond with the different skirt length measurements as recorded; front, first skirt length over hip; second skirt length over hip, back length. Thus it will be seen that for the different gores care must be taken that the length measurements must correspond on the edges that are to come together. Yokes for skirts mav be made from the two piece, three piece, or four piece model and made to conform to any desired shape; pointed, round, etc. Also, circular yokes mav be made from circular skirt draft. RU^^RLL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 39 r^^ PIECE sfci/er Two Piece Skirts To cut two piece skirt set System to one-fourth waist around, hip around and width at lower ed.o-e. Each piece is cut on fold of material' Be careful to have skirt len.o;th adjusted correctly. Study illustrations that accompany all sug-g-estions for cutting all patterns and you will experience no diffi- culty in o-ettino- patterns correct. The measurements for the skirt used in illustration were as follows: Waist, 28; hip around, 42; hip leng-th, 10; width around lower edge, 90 inches ; length in front, 37 ; first skirt length over hip. 38; second skirt length over hipj 38; length in back, 38; there- fore, adjustment was made as follows : To one-fourth meas- urements around, which is: Waist, 7; hip around, loi^; hip length, 10; length in front, 7,7 ; length over hip, 38 ; length in back, 38; and Vidth at lower edge, 22 V^. To cut pattern, 1 a y straight edge of System on fold of paper or material. For back piece lay straight edge of System on straight fold of material. Leave twelve inch placket at left side seam. Should it be impossible to spread the System to full width desired at lower edge without causing break in the line formed by System, it is w el 1 to get width and straighten line bv using skirt rule as illustrated. If fullness is to hang from hips lay rule from hip to lower edge. vShould one desire the fullness to fall from waist line, lay rule from waist line to lower edge. Be sure to mark along both sides of hem gauge, the upper line being for turn of hem. 40 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Illustration of Two Piece Skirt RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 41 T/f/?££ P/£C£ SfC/RT-mONT CLOJ/NG C/NI?£P PIAIT Three Piece Skirts Set System as for two piece skirt. Three piece skirts have either one piece in front and two pieces in the back or two pieces in the front and one in the back. If skirt is to close in the front, closing- will probably be made under plait or slot seam. In either case, allowance must be made by folding^ over ma- 42 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING terial the width of plait or seam allowance desired. Lay System with cen- ter front overlappino- half of plait width or to edg-e of seam. If skirt is to have back closing-, front should be cut by laying- System with center front on fold of material. To cut back, instead of laying on fold of g-oods, place System wath lower front corner on straigfht line of material, moving- back at waist line four inches from straig-ht line. This forms the seam line over hip, and making it slightlv bias and renders back seam much less bias, insuring a skirt that hangs perfectlv with an evenly distributed ripple. Opening- for placket should 1)e twelve inches long in all skirts. f V k ^ ^H ■ ^ ^H 7. 1 c i -^ 1 ^ 1 ^ 1 Cb 1 ^ 1 ^ 1 4/n. 2/>', 1 -^ in . 1 ', -4 //7. lndi'cof(25 njanner of lotting plaits for circular ploiled sHi'rf. Fo/d dot- ted line oiy'er to Stroighr line. Continoe until dGsired number of ploits '5 laid. RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Circular Skirt with Ripple Flounces 59 This skirt may be made with panel in front or with panel and yoke in one. When skirt is cut to make panel, allowance must be made when cuttino^ material, for seams or plait. Make a plain circular draft for foundation. Reproduce front panel and yoke to hip depth; allow for seam or turn under for plait. 60 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Measure len,q-th of skirt from hip yoke to bottom and divide the result by the number of flounces desired. This o-ives width of flounces. If skirt meas- urements are lono-er in back than in front, this width must be measured also. If one flounce is to \rv over the other, allowance must bp made in width for this lap. Flounces may !2:raduate in width if that style is preferred. For ripples, use small skirt section; set to two and one-half inches at waist line, the number at which to set the Svstem at lower edg^e of flounce width depends upon the amount of ripple desired. Lay front edge of System on straig-ht edo'e of material and mark at top and bottom and strai.s^ht along^ inner edq-e as indicated in illustration; move System so that front ed^^e meets straig-ht line and proceed as before; reoeat until pattern is finished. Width of flounce depends upon number of flounces desired and upon length of skirt. (See illustration.) RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 61 Coats or Jackets EASUREMENTS for coats are taken snugly or exactly as the form is, as the Coat Svstem is regulated to allow for all surplus necessary. This is a semi-fitting System and four spaces of measurement are allowed on each of the four pieces of the System at the waist line to make it so. Should you wish a tight-fitting- coat, instead of setting the waist strap to your actual waist size, adjust it to four sizes smaller, but make no other change in the adjustment of the System. For instance, if the waist measure is 28 inches. System should be set to 24 for a tig-ht fit, but adjust all other portions of the System to actual measurements. You will notice that the front of the System has indicated, double breast, single breast, and center front, which is one inch back from single breast. Care must be exercised to g'et a correct line from shoulder to bust and from bust to waist. Always measure with tape line to ascertain just w'here bust point should come. If the curve or rounded line at this point should be made too hig-h or too low, the fit of the g^arment is ruined. Change of corsets affects this line. If bust measure is so large as to interfere with a good line in the ad- justment of the front, set this part of the System to a good line reg-ardless • of bust size and add to side' front any number of spaces that may have been omitted from front. This always insures a correct fit, unless in extremely large or not properly proportioned figures. Those sections of the coat cut from the first or front coat section and the piece cut by the center back section of the System must always carry g-ood lines. Should there be any alteration in the adjustment of the System it must be made on the under-arm sections, both back and front. Always keep waist strap slightly lowered from center back to center front. Back should be cut on fold of material. Center of under-arm pieces should follow straig^ht line of material and the front sections should be cut with center front on straig'ht edge of material. The Coat System is just as simple in every way as the waist or skirt system and will fit any figure regardless of corset worn. Should one be very slender in the waist size with large hips, any amount of fullness may be given skirt of coat by adjusting at 'hip size. Darts should be put in lining- in lapel to g'ive the coat the well rounded lines over biist. This should be pressed carefully and covered with a facmg cut without dart. 62 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Plain Semi-Fitting Coat Adjust System to proper measurements. Lay front System with cen- ter front on straii^-ht line of material and mark around. Lav l:)ack with center line on fold of material. Lay underarm section with center on strai,^-ht line of material. To determine the lenoth desired measure from center waist strap down to any leno-th below waist. Study il- lustration. POflTlO// OF SYSTEM TO Cl/T SBNU-mUNG COAT pattt:i^jv RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 63 64 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Military Coat Adjust System as for semi-fittin2: coat and lay front and side front together, lapping from screw at shoulder to screw at hip. Shape under-arm followino- line of Svstem. ]\Iake any desired length. J/fOWmC METflOP OFIAYJUG SYSTEM O// Errata: Lay System on material with center front (one inch in from single breast perforations) on straight edge of material as indicated in illus- tration for Princess Slip (page 68). RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING 65 66 RUSSELL SYSTEM O E GARMENT CUTTING Box Coats Adjust System as for semi-fitting- co:its. Lay System with center front on straight edge of material. Lay side front lapping on front from shoulder screw to hi]) screw. Lay hack pieces in same way. Sha])e under-arm with s(|uare or skirt rule, making anv desired length or width around lower edg'e. To avoid using dart in arnrs-eye to shape over larg-e husts, raise System one inch under arm. This swing's System over, allowing- more fullness over hust and retaining the orig'inal arm's-eye. M^r/iOJ? Of CUTTJNG 3 OX COA7 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 67 68 KUSSELL SYSTEM O f C . I K .1/ /: A' T c ' U T T I X G Princess Slip Adjust Coat System for a ti.^ht-fittino- o-amient. Lav on material ac- coi-clino- to directions -iven for semi-fittino- coats. To finish skirt part deter- mine proper leno-th and width around lower ed-e of skirt, and shape up seams with skirt rule. i i • METHOD OF lAyJNG SYSTEM O/^ MAT£P/ A L roj? pj?jr/cBss suf^ RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING 69 70 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Teddy Bears METHOD OF CUTTING TEDPY 3 BARS Use coat section of System, lappinj^ front and back as for box coats. Measure down to length of skirt wished, making two inches lonj^er in back than in front. Shape under arm, foUow- ing System hue. Shape neck in any maimer desired. RUSSELL SYSTEM OE GARMENT CUTTING 7\ 72 RUSSELL SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING Butterfly Night Gown First fold g-oods lengthwise, then fold over accordiiio- to length of g-ar- nient desired. \\'ith square, measure across one-fourth of bust measure plus two and one-half inches. Measure down for arm's eye one-half the actual measurement '^lus one inch. Round out sleeve with square. Shai:)e neck in anv manner wished and measure length of gown with skirt rule. This may l^e rei)roduced with Raglan sleeve, square, round or V-shaned nee k. LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 013 973 161 n