ill »»:3i^ ^^ID^CDli t- , ^ > > =5P >' 1I> > -^5:) s> "-) f» :!> tn ► o >3 1 ^1 -^ >;^ ^ v:p ^:t^ ^^ 3» ',>'^- >^^ '^rS as. c Qass. Book c,B 3S^ ^o. CZa^.95-. '.^*- ^ E. 77 l&i23SSeEZ3KSEEin^:i£Ei::3IS£EIE?Sll£l ■2:j^^ c 3^ i^ j*^ Case.. .S'/z.eZ/. SCIENTIFIC LIBRARY, United States Patent Qfr^e J M. R. i JE^^^^^^^^^^^^^ lJtT^^^^^ E^^-^o ^Ijc^^-^^^i e^^^-^^ S ^c^^^'^^^ ^ '«iCS r- en cr .€*c: • < r c<^c<.c. ' ^-^r-*i^^^<- , which is sometimes, perhaps, the cause of Mildew. Thinning the Bunches and Fruit. — When the hunches are all set, and all is going on well, the house may go under a regular thinning of the bunches, and I would recommend in most cases that one bunch only is left on a weak shoot, and two on a strong. Remember you 32 ON THE CULTURE want fruit next year and if you overload this, some deficiency will be in the 7iext, if not the present year. Your fruit will not be so well ripened, nor good in quality, and besides, you will bring on a weakness by a heavy crop, and perhaps that pest of vegetation, the Mildew. Leave a part of your house thick and a part thin, in a fair medium, and if I am incorrect, attach the blame to me. But I must call your attention to thinning the fruit in the bunch, which will require to be done in a neat, clean, and expeditious manner. The time is when the fruit is as large as a small sized pea. For the purpose procure a pair of scissors with long handles and narrow pointed blades. In the operation commence thinning the grapes at the point of the bunch, by taking out all the small sized berries and part of the large, in a regular manner ; so that each will have equal room to swell in the bunch to its proper size, which must be judged according to the natural size of the Grape, when fully grown. In this operation care must be taken not to prick any of the fruit or any part of the bunch with the scissors, nor bruise them with the head, hands, or any other means, which will greatly injure the growth of the berries in this stage. The vines may now be regularly gone over by stop- ping the young shoots, tieing in, and the like, as before directed. Stoneing the Fruit. — When the fruit is grown nearly to its size, it will begin to swell its seeds or stones, OF THE GRAPE. 33 which will be perceived by the Grapes making but little growth. At this time the house should be kept in a moderate temperature ; at night about 65 de- grees, and in the day from 75 to 80 degrees. The vines may be moderately syringed, but not too much ; as, at this period, it will be recollected that the fruit is not in a growing state, and consequently, cannot imbibe so much moisture. AVhen this process is over, which may be ascertained by cutting the berries and finding the seed hard, the syringe maybe more generally applied. The temperature maybe now a little raised in order to swell the fruit more freely ; and every precaution must be taken to keep a clean and wholesome air, by cleansing the house, &c. Ripenhig the Fruit. — When the fruit begins to color, the syringe may be suspended, and the house be kept dry. The temperature may be kept from 70 to 80 degrees, fire heat, at night, if the fruit is in haste to be ripened, although 70 degrees will answer a better pur- pose if not in haste. Plenty of air should be given in a fine day in order to color and give flavor to the fruit ; in this manner the house. may be managed until the fruit is all ripe and cut from the vine. The sashes should then be taken off and the house fully exposed to the sun and air, in order to ripen the wood previous to the ensuing winter, when the glasses may again be put on the house. General Remarks on Grape Forcing. — The experi- enced forcer will perceive that the heat herein recom- 54 ON THE CULTURE mended is somewhat higher than is generally recom- mended by practical forcers, who have written on tha Grape in England ; my object of which is to bring the fruit to maturity early in the season to evade the Mildew which in most cases is destructive to Grape late in the summer. My secondary object is, considering this climate of a more clear atmosphere, and more sun in the early part of the spring, admitting of more external air to the house, which should be molified by internal heat from fire, in which case I have generally found tha impure vapor ascending from internal heat is much rectified by the admission of the external air. ARTICLE II. General Remarks on the Vineyard., After what has been said on the general culture and management of the Grape, it will be proper to make some remarks on the Vineyard and the more general introduction of the Grape- Vine, relative to its becoming one of the chief articles in domestic comforts, as using the fruit when ripe, and preserved, in cookery, and in eating from the bunch as a desert. • ' ^ In my remarks on the Grape, I shall be very candid relative to the probability of its improvement in quality and producing abundant crops ; and I hope the sugges- OF THE GRAPE. 35 tions may be at a future period realized. But as all ex- periments of the kind must at present be considered as a theory unsubstantiated by practice, it will be well to remind the reader that to put them into operation, he should not go too expensively to work at a hazard. From many facts and actual observation it has been abundantly proved that the wild apple, pear, gooseberry, currant, and the like, have been the primitive of all the known superior varieties from their progeny at the present day. From such practical experiments there can be no reason to doubt that the native Grape of this country will not, with proper management, be as likely to be improved in as great a degree of superiority to the wild Grape of the country, as the Newtown pippin is to the crab-apple ; or the Sickle pear of Pennsylvania is to the wild pear of the wood. But at the same time it cannot be expected that such changes are to be made in the space of two or three years, but must be a work of time and gradual improvement on the varieties experi- mented upon. That indefatigable Pomologist, Van Mons of Bel- gium, proved that the Apple, Pear, and most primitive fruit improved from seed in a ratio from five to twenty- five to the hundred, in the course of eight or ten generations. The system that he adopted was the raising of seedlings from the seed of the crab crossed by choice varieties, which was allowed to fruit; the most 36 ON THE CULTURE likely looking fruit was preserved for seed to raise another generation, with which when in fruit, the same method was continued through seven or eight genera- tions. The result of his experiments was that many- fine varieties of fruit were raised from the last generation which not only enriched Flanders, England, and every part of Europe congenial to them, but have also found their way into this country through the medium of Horticultural Societies and private individuals, to enrich the Fruit department ; and from such analogies why should we not expect, if the same experiments were here tried on the Grape, that the result would be similar. Supposing the desired object to be obtained by the above experiments of naturalizing the Grape and improving the quality in such a manner that no doubts are enter- tained of its thriving and bearing well in any part of the United States. The next question is to show whether the produce can be grown to an extent to give a good profit to the grower and sell the produce either in fruit, wine, vinegar or virgous, at a price to meet the foreign market, which can only be solved at a time when every improvement is made in culture and manufacture of wine. If the desired purpose be obtained of producing Grapes, from seed or by other means, of good qualities, that will flourish and fruit well in the summer, and the wood to be of a nature to withstand the winter without taking from the trellis or poles, then there will be no doubt that this country will become equally celebrated OF THE GRAPE. 37 as any other in the Vineyard ; and until that object is obtained little good can be expected in the general culture of the Grape. For it is not the vine dresser, let him be even the most skilful from any country, that can alter the climate, soil, or location in a manner suitable to Grapes that are, in their nature, tender and liable to be injuriously affected by the changes of tho climate. But certain it is, if the Grape can be brought to the desired qualities, favorable locations will be found and like other produce from the soil, every improve- ment made in its culture to answer the desired end of producing abundant crops, which will be converted into wine, vinegar, virgous, and every use that the Grape is applied to in other countries. In the culture of Grapes in Vineyards, little can be said in this concise Manual only that the pruning, as before directed, will perhaps be the best adapted to this climate. The soil and location adapted to the Grape, may be found in many different parts ; and it is little to be doubted that different varieties will thrive best on different situations, but, in all cases, dry bottoms are to be recommended, and the soil, whatever may be its natural quality, will require to be often enriched with strong manure, as that from Slaughter-houses, night-soil and the like. But for manuring the Vineyard, I recommend that a compost be made of one-third loam, one-sixth old mortar rubbish, and the remainder of manure, as before recommended. Let this compost bo 4 38 ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. well mixed together and laid on the Vineyard early in the spring, before the frost is out of the ground. The location best adapted, will, most probably be found to be on a South aspect, well protected on the North and cold quarter. On the base or alluvials of hills or mountains, I think, the larger sorts of Grapes will be found to answer best, and the high locations will very likely suit the smaller varieties. The mode of culture best to be adopted will undoubtedly be found to be similar to that practised in those countries, where the Vineyard has long been a subject of com- merce, and the making and management of the wine and fruit will require nearly the same process. The following list of Grapes are selected as the best varieties adapted to the Vinery, and ripen in succession as they are numbered in the list : 1. Early Oval, | 5. Black Hamburg, 2. White Sweetwater, | 6. Black Constantia» 3. White Frontinac, | 7. White Hamburg, 4. Black Frontinac, 8. St. Peters. (39) A DISSERTATION ON THE GROWTH AND MANAGEMENT OF FRUIT TREES. There are but few things of a more interesting na- ture when duly considered, than the utility and beautiful economj^ of nature in endowing mankind with the faculty and means of improving the different kinds of fruit palateable to his taste and wholesome to his con- stitution. By a little observation, we find that a kind of primitive ordination of nature has stamped the character of various fruits adapted to different climates, in a manner suitable to the constitution of mankind in any given country . and, furthermore, has given in his possession the means of improving any primitive fruit into almost endless varieties, which, although they all partake of the same nature as their parent, still their qualities are different as regards color, size, flavor and time of dura ■ tion or ^^atino:, which in many fruits, if well managfe^ • 40 A DISSERTATION may be said to be almost perpetual. Upon the least reflection on any kind of fruit, our most ardent desires are gratified relative not only to the utility, but of vari- ous qualities, suitable to the many purposes to which it is applied. For instance, the Apple, in its primitive state as a Crab, is rejected as being unpalateable and unwholesome; therefore it is considered as useless, when on the least reflection it is evident that it is the very essence of its kind : for the Crab, although rejected at table, is a perpetual parent that has given birth to all and the very best varieties of Apples in existence, that are the most useful in domestic concerns. Let the aged of the present day call to mind the fruitfulness and excellence of the best fruits of his youthful days and he will find a falling off' in their qualities, and the very best fruits of the orchard of his youth are canker- ing and dwindling to nothing, while new varieties are springing up and taking their place in the orchard and garden, of fine qualities which render them to the rising generation of mankind the choice fruits of their season. From many experiments that have been made on the improvement of fruit, it may almost be certain that wherever the primitive of any kind is found indigenous to any country it may be improved to a high state of perfection by culture ; therefore it is as reasonable to believe that the time will arrive that the banks of the Hudson will be clothed with Vineyards of fine Grapes ON FRUIT TREES. 41 produced from the native, as that of the Rhine or any part of Europe. Independent of the utility of fruit in our domestic affairs, the orchard and fruit garden may be considered as a fine feature in landscape scenery ; for when a large track of land is destitute of the orchard there is not that appearance of mellow fertility that is always con- veyed to the observer, when fine crops of fruit are to be seen, which indicate the real comforts of life. IVutrlmenfs of Trees and Plants. Trees, like all other bodies which are organized, require a proper nutriment for the germination of seed and the further developement of vegetable economy. The most superficial observer is aware that trees derive their principal food from the soil and atmosphere, although not in equal proportions. They also require difTerent components, according to the nature of the soil in which they naturally grow : thus the Cherry and Peach are found to thrive best on a light, dry soil, while the Pear and Plum require a deep loamy soil. The same affinity is observable in different kinds of trees and vegetables. The principal food of trees is found to be either vegetable or animal substance in a decomposed state, in which it enters them by aqueous solution. This 4* 42 A DISSERTATION food is principally absorbed by the roots of trees ; it is also inhaled by the leaves, its particles being often raised to a considerable height by the winds ; therefore it is plain, that plants either thriv^e or sicken according to the portion of such nutriment contained in the soil in which they grow. Earths, as Clay, Lime, Flint and Magnesia, are also absorbed by trees in solution ; each particular variety will be found to contain those earths in different proportions according to the nature of the soil in which they grow; hence by calcination of corn-stalks, flint is found in the ashes, and plants growing in a chalky soil, are found to contain portions of lime ; and by analization each variety will be found to contain a portion of solid substance which it most readily imbibes by aqueous solution. Some authors are of an opinion that water is the sole food of trees and plants, founding their authority on the well known fact that many kinds, particularly bulbs, vegetate and produce blossoms in that fluid. The reverse is, how- ever, apparent, as on calcination those plants are found to contain component parts. The quantity of water necessary for difierent species is also very apparent, as Bome plants are found to thrive on the hardest rocks and must obtain their moisture principally by their leaves from the atmosphere, whilst others are known to live wholly in water, and consequently must be of a different nature in their solids. Atmospheric air, in all cases, is necessary to fruit trees, particularly when in a growing state, in a confined OK FRUIT TREES. 43 situation, as in hot-houses, frames, and the like. When unwholesome air is present, trees suffer in proportion to the quantity of improper gas: the most delicate part as the flower, is first affected and most generally per- ishes; the next is the tender leaves and branches, and so in proportion. But in some cases, as in tender annuals, foul internal air destroys the whole plant in its infant state. To all plants in a growing state exter- nal air should always be admitted, if only in the least possible proportion, in order to rectify the internal air, as in hot-houses, or other confined places, which is always unwholesome to fruit or plants, in a greater or less degree, in proportion to the external air that is admitted. stimulants. It is necessary that the cultivator of fruit should be familiarly acquainted with the stimulants requisite to carry on the vegetable economy, of which heat and light are the principal. A proper quantity of heat and cold is requisite to develope the functions of seeds, and cause the currents of sap to circulate in a proper manner. Many plants, as Mosses and Alpine plants, on high latitudes, vegetate at a very small degree above freezing point, thirty-two degrees. The Gooseberry grasses and most native herbaceous plants, vegetate in a minimum 44 A DISSERTATION heat of perhaps forty degrees. Apples, Pears, and the like, from forty to forty-five degrees ; and the Grape, especially the foreign, requires from fifty to fifty-five degrees. The same affinity is also observable in seeds which are found to vegetate and thrive best in heat that is in accordance with their natures. Sun-heat should have a free access to all kinds of fruit, particularly when in a ripening state, as most fruits that ripen in the shade do not possess their proper quality and flavor, although it is certain that fruit often swell to a larger size in the shade ; but they are destitute of the other requisites, which can be proved by experience. Observations on the Roots of Trees. The roots of trees, being intended by nature as chan- nels by Avhich the principal food is absorbed and convey- ed to the different parts, and finally forms a part of the tree, should be very familiar to the cultivator. By due observation it will be seen that the adaptation of trees to their proper soil is of the greatest importance, as trees placed in a soil uncongenial to them, seldom thrive well, owing to improper food being absorbed by their roots : and in many cases, roots have been known to travel out of their proper position in quest of a more proper nutriment. The circulation of the sap in roots is different in different trees as may be exem.plified by ON FRUIT TREES. 45 plants and shrubs beginning to put forth their leaves at various periods, in the same location. This fact may be proved by any intelligent observer who will notice the commencement of vegetation in native plants and shrubs, in any given part of the country, under the same circumstances and in the same location. These trees are all fastened in the earth by the root, and all receive the same temperature, and the natural changes of moisture, in the place where they grow : but their time of vegetation or circulation of sap, is in accordance to their peculiar nature, vv'hich varies a month or more. As soon as the soil is sufficiently warm to answer their economy of circulation, the process proceeds. Obsctvatious on tbc ISiid. The bud of trees is very properly termed by the Botanist, the hyhemacula or winter quarters. It is formed in the summer, and properly fed and nourished by the descending sap. Buds may be considered under three definitions : first, buds which contain the rudiments and organization of fruits only, as the Cheriy, Plum and Pear] second, buds which contain the blossom and wood-buds under the same covering, as the Grape and most trailing vines ; and thirdly, those which contain all the rudiments of a young plant in embryo, as the Cherry, Plum, and Pear, which are called wood-buds. 46 A DISSERTATION Nature has carefully protected those precious appen- dages of trees, by coverings them with a hard, scaly substance outwardly, and a woolly substance inwardly to protect the more tender parts. It will be found by a due observance of buds, that those which produce the fruit are the most delicate, and of course the most liable to injury by drought, cold and the many causes inimical to them ; hence the Peach, and many other fruit trees require protection during the winter in the Northern States, particularly those that have been grown under glass, the buds of which are always more delicate than w^hen the tree is wholly exposed. The blossom-bud being injured in any way, either by cold or other casualty detrimental to it, is generally destroyed ; but the wood-bud on the same tree is not, although exposed to the same injuries ; and in many cases, as the Grape- Vine, the blossom-bud is blinded or destroyed by many causes detrimental to it, although the vine will perhaps break and grow in a very healthy manner. Observations on tlie Lieaf* The leaves of trees being the principal organs of respiration, also contribute to their growth by their power of absorption j they are of the greatest impor- ON FRUIT TREES. 47 tance in this operation. The surrounding air, whether internal or external, being absorbed by their agency, requires to be of a pure and wholesome nature, in order to keep them in a healthy, vigorous state. We are informed by Botanists that the leaves of trees are synonymous with the lungs of animals, therefore whatever disease is imbibed by them, enters into their system. When too much heat and moisture are applied in Grape houses or frames where plants are growing, it is imbibed by the leaf, and the consequence is, that the plant is elongated without its proper qualities, the leaves assume a feeble appearance and are often totally destroyed, when the sun and air act on them sufficiently to nourish their more healthy parts. Leaves, when decaying, are most liable to breed many insects, as the Red Spider, Trip, and all other insects which are increased by decomposition, therefore, decaying and dead leaves should in all cases be taken from plants in a state of vegetation. In conclusion to what has been said on fruit trees and the Grape-Vine, it appears evident that the seed of all kinds of fruit in the common idea, is the primitive, and is perpe^al, and that every variety of improved quality must originate ttjp it, either by chance or luxuriant culture J, and it is at tj^ same time clear that by cross- ing the primitive or native fruit of any country, of the same natural order, that new varieties, of improved 48 A DISSERTATION ON FRUIT TREES. qualities, are produced congenial to the country which has given birth to such varieties. From the very best of experiments and authority, it has been proved that in raising trees either from seed, cuttings, grafting or any other mode of propagation, that those kinds that have been propagated in a hardy and natural manner are the best qualified to withstand the natural changes of the climate ; and that although by nursing many tender fruits, they are brought to great perfection with attentive culture, it cannot be recommended to answer in a gen- eral way. Any intelligent observer will dfscover that trees of all kinds require to be so situated that the sun and air have as much as possible, free access to every part of their ]eaves,. fruit, and indeed all parts of the tree, and that any violence,' either by severe pruning, disease, blights, unwholesome food or air that is present, acts : on their system materiklly either directly or indirectly; and as practical obfeerYation is worth volumes of theory I- leavjg the perusal of; this little manual to the reader : under the impression tliat 'the articles it contains are ! written as a^-TVa:^ ona subject Whjch can only be understood practically by a due bbsetvahcfe' to the natural causes of the vegetable •kingdom. THE CULTIVATION OF AMERICAN GRAPE VINES, AND MAKING OF WINE. SECOND EDITION. BY A L D E N wS P O N E R BROOKLYN: E. B. SrOONER, "STAR OFFICE," 102 & 104 ORANGE-STREET. NEW-YORK, A. 0. MOORE, AGRICULTURAL BOOKSTORE, 140 FULTON-ST. 1858. Southern District of J^Tew York, ss. RE IT REMEMBERED, that on the twenty-third day of June, Anno Domini 1846, Alden Spoonsr, of the said District, hath deposited in this office, the title of a hook, the title of which is in the words following, to wit : " The Cultivation of American Grape Vines, and making of Wine, by Alden Spoonkr :" the riglit whereof he claims as Author and Proprietor, in con- formity with an act of Congress, entitled " An Act to amend the several Acts respecting copy-rights." J. W. S'lETCALF, Clerk of the Southern District of J^ew York. INDEX Page. ^Introduction o Brief History of the Vine 1 of Foreigy Vines in America 9 of American Vines 10 History of the Isabella Vine 13 Soil — Climate — Exposure 17 Propagation of Gi'ape Vines 19 ; By Seeds 19 — ™--^ __ By Buds of sliort cuttings 20 By Cuttings • 21 By Layers -^23 By Grafting 23 Vines in Pots 28 Pruning and training 29 Planting and transplanting 38 Manuring the Vine 39 Forcing Grapes in Hot Houses 40 Insects, Blight, Rotting, &c 43 Vineyard Culture 45 American Grapes and Vineyards 48 Various uses of the Vine 53 Visit to an American Vineyard '. 57 Conversation on Grapes 59 Making of 'Wine 69 of immature Grapes 74 Receipt for Making Currant Wine 83 Grapes cultivated near New York 86 Domestic uses of the Vine 87 Explanation of Terms 95 INTRODUCTION. It has long been a matter of surprize that the cultiva- tion of Grapes and making of Wine, has not engaged more of the attention and labors of our enterprizing citi- zens. With a vast expanse of country, embracing every variety of soil and climate, and the Grape growing spon- taneously in the w^oods, from Canada on the north, to the Gulf of Mexico on the south, there could never have been a doubt of its successful cultivation bv any one w^ho would give it the requisite skill and attention. The southern States, and Florida in particular, promise the greatest success in producing the European kinds of Grapes ; but the northern States, and even Canada exhibit the assurance that native Grapes may be success- fully ripened in the open air. The great success of two varieties of the American Grapes — the Isabella and the Catawba — and the rapid spreading of their cultivation, has induced me to give to the public the benefit of what experience I may have had in their culture. In the year 1838, at the request of Jesse Buel, Esq., then the editor of the paper entitled ' The Cultivator," and published at Albany, \ wrote a brief sketch of the Isabella Grape, which had obtained great favor on Long-Island, and which I had taken much a2 VI IISiTKOBUUTION, pains to scatter abroad, by distributing cuttings to all who would accept of tliem. I also included in my sketch all I had experienced in wine-making. The Cultivator of May, 1838, contains my remarks, which have been re- published in other papers, and I multiplied copies in my own paper (the Long-Island Star) for gratuitous distribu- tion. The inquiry for information on this subject, still continues. I am sensible there are some persons of more experience in raising and trimming the vines, and in ma- king wine, and I hope they may hereafter correct my errors, if such shall be discovered. For such facts as did not come under nty own observation, 1 am indebted to the very excellent periodicals of the present day; and it was my object to embrace in a small compass such inter- esting facis relative to grape culture and wine-making, as that evtry man owning a lot of ground of any dimensions. Xfidg raise his own grapes and make his own wine. CULTIVATION OF AMERICAN GRAPE VINES. BRIEF HISTORY OF TllR VINE. I SHALL not attempt to givne a botGiiical descrip- tion of the Grape Vine. It is called the Viiis Vin- ifera of Europe, and some have supposed our American Vines to have had the same origin. — There are some forty species, and an immense number of varieties. The practice in foreign vine- yards of having different species and varieties in contiguity, would naturally cause an intermingling of numerous kinds with shght shades of difference. There is no period in the history of man, in which the Vine is not mentioned in language of grateful testimony that it is a blessing of the high- est value. Its fruitfuhiess and its qualities were well known in the days of Noah, and in all subse- * quent periods of time. Scripture in numerous instances has language peculiarly drawn from the culture of grapes and the wine — the pnining ot the Vine — the treading of the grapes, which was the ancient method, and the tcine press, are ail in- corporated with sacied writ. It is stated that a Helvetian named Helicon first made known the properties of the vine at Rome, HISTORY OF THE VINE. and that the interchanges of commerce soon spread it abroad. Plutarch and Livy give it a Tuscan origin. A late writer, Thiebaut de Berneaud tells us that from the first appearance of the Vine in France the cultivation spread in every disposable corner, w.herever a fitting soil and exposure could be found. This excited the jealousy of Rome, who, under pretence of preventing the recurrence of famine, decreed that the Vineyards should be turned into wheat fields, and caused a general grub- bing up of the Vine throughout the territories of Gaul. This took place A. D. 92. It was so rig- orously executed, that the inhabitants were obliged to resort to beer and other fermented drinks, such as had been in use before the introduction of the Grape. The ferocious Domitian was detested for this violation of the natural rights of the people whom he should have protected, but the edict nevertheless remained in force for two centuries — when Probus, in A. D. 282, restored the cultivation. The restoiation occasioned a long festival of rejoic- ings, and the people with great alacrity renewed the Vine culture, and spread it to all the neighbor- ing nations. In 1556 trie Vines were again prohibited through- out France, on the ground of their monopoly of the earth, and the labor, from more important tillage. After eleven years the law was revoked, and the Vine once more allowed free growth. — About the beginning of the eighteenth century another attempt was made at restriction ; and it was not until the revolution of 1789 that every owner of the soil was allowed to improve it in his own way ; since which lime the prosperity of the Vine cultivation in France has added vastly to the happiness of the people and ihe wealth of the nation. FOREIGN VINES. U OF FOREIGN VINES IN AMERICA. Many of the attempts to raise Grapes from foreign Vines in the opeti air, have resuhcd in loss and disappoinlmeiit. The late Mr. Paimentier, of Brooklyn, Long Island, devoted much labor and expense on foreign Vines to very little purpose. Mr. Loubat also, who had seen nluch of Grape cultivation in France, planted, a vineyard of forty acres at New^ Utrecht, L. I , which had 159,000 Vines of various sizes, and for some years flattered himself with hopes, which resuited in disappoint- ment. In some few instances in Brooklyn and Kew York, where the Vines were protected by surrounding buildings, the Chasselas Grape and other foreign varieties yielded well, thereby only demonstrating that such fruit can be obtained if cultivators will be at the trouble of erecting proper houses for the purpose. In the year 1827, 1 planted fifty foreign Vines, some of which were from Fraiice and obtained from Mr. Parmentier and Mr. Loubat — others were from Germany, and obtained from Mr. Knudsen. In four years I was able to exhibit five kinds of fine Grapes at the horticultural exhibitioiiof New York, at Niblo's garden ; but the Vines produced few good bunches, and very soon none at all. The *^Vines and shoots continued to grow for several years, but the fruit was mouldy and black before the period of ripening, and thus were worthless. Many gardeners and amateur cultivators, made great and judicious attempts to raise foreign Grapes iu the open air, but they all gave up the fruitless labor. Very fine foreign Grapes, especially the black Hamburgh, have been raised in hot houses in New- York, Boston and otlier places. The late Judge 10 AMERICAN VIISTES. Buel recommended a cheap green-house, which he described in the (Jultivator, for raising foreia^n Grapes without artificial heat. It is well worthy of trial. The government of the United States, in order to encourage Grape cultivation in this country, have made several grants of lands in different parts of the sonthern and western States, to intelligent foreigners well acquainted with the business, who have brought over their foreign vines, and given them great attention. All these have failed, until they adopted the native Vines — a fact worthy of much reflection and investigation. We may pre- su!ne, therefore, that foreign Vines must be raised in grape-houses, or by patient changes of cultiva- tion be guadually naturalized to our climate. OF AMERICAN VINES. In the first discovery and settlement of America Grape Vines were seen in profusion in the woods, and their value and peculiar properties could not fail to become known. There can be no doubt that Vines have been long cultivated and much wine made in America. In the Spanish colony of Coahuila, in Mexico, on^ the Rio Del Nort, about the 29th degree of North latitude, fine Grapes were raised and much wine made at an early period of the colony ; but the culture was for some cause forbidden by the crown, probably from fear of competition with the vineyards of Spain. It was officially stated by. the Deputy from Coahuila to the Cortes of 1812, that this North American province produces con- siderable quantities of good wine — a number of AMERICAN VINES. 11 districts and vineyards giving vv^ines as delicious as those of Castile in Spain. He adds that the raising of wine is one of the most productive branches of their agriculture, and so great that they supply the neighboring colonies, and even send some of the finest to Mexico. ■ I learn from a communication of Dr. James Mease, of Philadelphia, that before the American Revolution a quarter cask of wine made by Doctor Howard, of New Brunswick, N. J,, was sent to the Society for the encouragement of arts, manu- factures, &c., in London, and the society presented him thirty guineas as a reward. Mr. Tasker, of Maryland, and Mr. Antil, of Shrewsbury, Mon- mouth County, N. J., are named as among the early cultivators of the Grape. Mr. Antii had a vineyard of several acres, and wrote a paper on the subject which appears in the first volume of the American Philosophical Society. He cultiva- ted foreign Vines only. In 1769 the French settlers in Illinois made one hundred and ten hogsheads of strong wine from native Grapes. In 1793. Peter Legaux, a French gentleman, obtamed of the legislature of Pennsylvania the incorporation of a company for cultivating the ^ine. They purchased a farm at Spring-mill, ^fclontgomery County, thirteen jniles from Phila- delphia, on the Schuylkill. For one year only prospects were favorable ; but divisions and dis- sentions arose and the stockholders sold out in disgust, and the vineyard went to ruin. In the early settlement of the now city of New York, a gentleman had a very fine garden at Hoboken and raised many Grapes. In the woods of that place are now to be seen very large Vines running wild into the tops of the tallest trees. 12 AMERICAN VINES. It is recorded that in the early settlement of Long-Island a vineyard was cultivated near South- ampton, by Mr. Fournier. We understand very. good wild Grapes are now in great plenty in the woods and swamps near that place. At Harmony, near Pittsburgh, a vineyard ot - ten acres was planted and cultivated by Frederick Rapp and his associates from Germany. They afterwards removed to another Harmony, in In- diana, on the east bank of the Wabash, where they continue the cultivation of wine and silk to the present time. A Swiss colony settled about fifty years ago in Jessamin County, Kentucky, and raised a fund of ten thou and dollars for the express purjiose of a vineyard. They planted foreign Vines and failed. In 1801 they removed to a spot which they called Vevay, in Switzerland County, Indiana, on the Ohio r'ver, 45 miles below Cincinnati. Here they planted native or naturalized Vines and succeeded. A recent article in a newspaper says^" They turned attention to our native Vine, first to the Cape Grape, and subsequently to the Isabella and Catawba. After forty years of experience they consider our climate and soil inferior to those of Switzerland for producing saccharine matter, and consequently wine. They say that, in this coungp try, twelve pounds of Grapes are required to mali^^ a gallon of wine, and, in the old country, ten pounds. At one time they had forty acres under cultivation ; now only five. They say they can cultivate other products to greater profits." i he government of the United States, desirous of encouraging the cultivation of the Vine, and making of wine, made extensive grants of the public lands for this patriotic service, to some of ISABELLA GRAPB VINE. 13 the distinguished exiles f France, who chose Greene County, in the then territory of Alabama for that purpose, as being the most promising climate for the Vine They planted a small colony of cultivators, who brought out numerous varieties of their favorite Vines; but after great labor and perseverance they were compelled to relinquish it in despair. It was discovered about the time of their quitting, that the Vines of Vevay, Indiana, which they obtained from the Agent of that asso- ciation ai New Orleans, would succeed well. The small remains of the colony were finally successful in cultivating from native Vines. At Georgetown, in the District of Cokimbia, Mr. Adlum cultivated a vineyard, and made much wine, of which he, in a patriotic manner, gave specimens to all the members of Congress. He also published a small book on the subject of wine, which I made my guide in the matter of wine- making. His favorite Grape was the Catawba, and kis vineyard flourished until his death. HISTORY OF THE ISABELLA GRAPE VINE. This justly celebrated Vine has obtained a general cultivation along the coast of the United States, and in Canada. The fruit, when well ripened, is very fine as a table Grape, and it is also well known to make an excellent wine, capable of beinjT preserved for years. Many persons have expressed an interest to know its origin, and I will proceed to state all the facts I have been able to obtain. The Isabella Vine first obtained its notoriety in the garden of George Gibbs, Esq., at Brooklyn, 14 ISABELLA GRAPE VINE. Long-Island, about the year 1816. His lady ob- tained it from North Carolina, and after its value became known, she gave cnltings liberally to her neighbors. A few gentlemen of Brooklyn, in compliment to her, gave it her name, Isabella^ and exerted themselves to multiply cuttings, and make its qualities known. By the aid of various publi- cations, in the Long-Island Star and other papers, it soon became the cherished ornament and pride of every garden and door-yard. No dwelling is so humble as not to nourish its vine — no yard too small to admit its delicious shade and fruit. The following letter, which gives the only- information I possess relative to the origin of the Isabella Vine, was communicated by the gentle- man to whom it was addressed, David Kimberly, Ksq., of Brooklyn, and published in the Long- Island Star of Julv 2, 1838— Wilmington, N. C, June 9, 1838. Bear Sir : — Please accept my thanks for the paper containing an essay upon tlie culture of the Isabella Grape. You request a repetition of the history of that Vine, as given me by Bernard Laspeyre, Esq., a native of France, very intelhgent, and who resided for many years in the vicinity of tliis place, and who may be called the father of the Grape culture in this part of Nort^^ Carolina. Mr. Laspeyre stated that many years past, upon a visit to Charleston, S. C, he became acquainted with a countryman of his (name I do not recollect) who had a few years previously travelled through France and the most of Spain. The culture of the Grape was an interesting topic to both, and his friend invited him to visit his garden, where he had in full bearing a Vine which he brought with him from Spain (I think from Andalusia) and with which he was more pleased than any which had come under his observation. Mr. L. was ISABELLA GRAPS VINE. 15 also much taken with the Vine, and made arrangements to procure as many of the cuttings as his friend could spare, who stated to him that he had endeavored to spread the Vine as widely as possible in South Carolina by giving cuttings to gentlemen from different parts of th^e state, whenever he met Avith one likely to take care of them. The following season, Mr. Laspeyre received a number of cuttings, which he divided with his acquain- tances, and among others Gen. Benjamin Smith, from vfhom (I think) Mrs. Gibbs procured the Vine which she carried to Long-Island. Mr. Laspeyre planted the portion reserved on his farm, about 18 miles from this place, and in a very few years had a handsome vineyard, which was the " wonder and talk"' of the v/hole neighborhood. The stage road from this to Fayetteville passes within a short distance of his residence. It so happened that the stage was broken in his immediate vicinity, and a Spanish gentleman, who was a passenger, inquired if no person cultivated Grapes in a country which seemed so well adapted to it. He was told of Mr. Laspeyre's vineyard, and, having plenty of time, he procured a guide and called upon Mr. L., who carried him to see his Grapes. Upon entering the enclosure, his first exclama- tion was, " Ha, you have got my countryman here, I know him well, and it is one of the finest Grapes in Spain." The above is the history of the Isabella, as related to me by Mr. Laspeyre ; if he mentioned the name by which the Grape is known in Spain, I have forgotten it. Mr. L. was amused at the idea of its being an American Grape. It is generally known here as the Laspeyre Grape, and also as the Isabella. The friends of that excellent Lady, Mrs. Gibbs, give the latter name the preference, and it will, no doubt, be continued. P. A. S. It thus appears that the Isabella Grape had its 16 ISABELLA GRAPH VINE. origin in Spain, and has been adapted and natural- ized to tile climate of most of the United States. I hear of its cultivation as far North as Canada, but with what success I cannot learn. I should much doubt whether it would ripen well in Canada. In the vicinity of New York it is sufficiently ripe for the table about the middle of September, and is sometimes on the Vines long after the frost, and continues to improve ; but if they are unripe on the approach of frost they become worthless. If any bunches remain very late by reason of any peculiar protection, they become exceedingly sweet and pleasant. This particular kind of Grape is here regarded as above all price, and the descendants of Mrs. Gibbs may rejoice that her name and fame are connected with this great and delightful bless- ing. The Isabella Vine is particularly adapted to cities, as it may be placed in a corner of any small yard, and its Vine carried to any height or to any roof or space which may be desired. It shelters the domestics at their labor, and soap-suds is an excellent manure for its roots. Its qualities are known and respected even among the Vines of Europe. Immense quantities are brought to New York market, and yet the demand is not satisfied. Vineyards are rapidly multiplying throughout the country — twenty-seven acres being thus improved in one location at Croton Point. Enough is already known of its wi?ie to pronounce it cheering and delightful ; and yet not a gallon has been offered for sale, where thousands of barrels might have been produced. But the time is near at hand when " every man may sit under his own Vine " — and he may also drink his own wine, which "cheers, but not inebriates !'' SOIL, i»Mk>..^^ — "The intermediate *''^~'''' shoots must be traine for next year's bearers, and the fruit rubbed off to give strength to the shoot. (See Fig. 4.) The fifth year the vertical branches are to be trained lo proper distances, having a bud on the horizontal branch between each, to be trained, 38 PRUNING, AC, without fruit as a next year's bearers. When the main branch reaches the extent of the trellis it may be turned upward, vertically. (See Fig. 6.) Fig. 5 After the fifth year the vine may be trained to a proper economy of the trelles or supporters, and with regard to access for pruning and gathering, or shade where it is desirable — training some and pruning others, so that all parts of the trellis be properly covered — sometimes encouraging, or al- lowing to remain, a new shoot on account of its position, and at other times taken out old wood, to give place to more sightly or better shoots. Re- gard will be had to beauty of appearance and sym- metry, which are generally in accordance with the productiveness and perpetuity of the vine. PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING. We have described the mode of propagating the vine, but as the planting or transplanting is a mat- ter of importance to its future growth, much care n ust be taken in that branch of culture. Although the vine will live, if transplanted in a PLAHTTING, iC. 39 proper manner, any season when the earth is not frozen, yet many good reasons might be given why the /a^ is the best for that purpose. The roots will become settled, and the moisture of the earth and the alternations of the weather will probably start them, or prepare them for an early start in the spring, and thas much time will be saved. — The ground should be well ploughed or dug up, and a hole made about two feet deep, and large enough to admit all the roots v/ithout crowding. Some good black, top soil from the border must be put in the bottom of the hole, but no manure of any kind, as its heating and fermenting qualities would injure, if n^jt destroy tire plant Set the roots on the top of ihe dark mould and throw the earth in loosely, breaking the lumps — pull the stock up a little and shake it, that the earth may get among the small roots. Fill in the earth to within three or four inches of the surrounding ground, and pour a few quarts of water therein, enough to penetrate to the root. The ground should remain depressed around the stock. It should immediate- ly be staked, or supported, to prevent the wind from straining it In cultivated ground, vines may be planted 40 or 50 feet apart, as apple trees are in a orchard. In these cases they should be tr^iined long and suf- fered to lay upon a high platform, made of poles on crotches. In this manner they may be raised out of the way of cattle or of thieves, and be made a delicious shade for man and animals. MANURING THE VINE Although the vine will flourish on poor, dry, and sandy soils, yet it nevertheless, after a few years 40 MANURING, &C, exhausts the soil around it, and requires manure. But it must be given with much prudence and not in excess. Liquid manures are to be preferred, and stable manures avoided. Leav s of all sorts, and peet or swam) earth is desirable. Bones and animal manures from slaughter houses are much used, as also lime and gypsum. Soap suds, soot , poudrett, ashes, of all kinds, street and road ma- nure — all are good for the grape, and every family makes enough for several vines. Fish and sea weed are also much used in France, but the latter is said to give a peculiar taste to the wine. New earth must be applied when the vines are on a side hill, to replace that which washes away. If the vines become yellow, it is an indication of weak- ness in the root, and that manure is required. It is best applied in the fall, or early in the spring. Guano in a liquid state, and sparingly, is good. FORCING GRAPES IN HOT HOUSES. Mr. Julius W. Paulsen, who was in 1838 a Gardner with Joseph A. Ferry, Esq , of Brook- lyn, N. Y., translated from a German newspaper, and gave to the public a most inteteresting and in> porta nt article on the culture of the grape vine, published by the Horticultural Society of Ham- burgh, Mr. Paulsen remarks : " The advantages of this new system over any other, until now known practice, consists chiefly in the follow- ing : 1. It produces ripe fruit in the middle of the winter, wiien any kind of fruit is always most acceptable and es- teemed. 2. It requires after the first year no more expense than common graperies, where they have ripe fruit in the months of May, June or July. FORCING GRAPES IN HOT-HOUeES. 41 3. It does not, like other forcings, weaken the constitu- tion of the vines. The last advantage is the greatest of all, as you only change the season of vegitation — and observe, so soon as you acquire this important article exactly, by giving them spring, snmmer, fall and winter, the grape-vine must thrive as thriftily, and bear as abundantly, as in its open native soil. The public will excuse me, if I take the liberty to re- mark, that it will be impossible to expect any advantage from this new system, or any other kind of forcing grapes, if they want to raise Green'or Hot-house plants with the grapes. Thei/ will never obtain half a crop, and be only disappointed.''^ New method of obtaining a very early crop of Grapes, in Forcing-houses. Published by J. A, Ohlendorff, Esq. President of the Horticultural Society and Director of the Botanical Garden at Hamburgh. TRANSLATED BY JULIUS W. PAULSEN. The Horticultural Society of Hamburgh, at a sitting in November, 1835, offered a premium of eight Hamburgh ducats, to be awarded in 1837, to that individual, who shouldsucceed in producing the largest quantity of highly flavored grapes, not less than half a pound in weight, at a period not later in the season, than the 15th March. Mr. H. Davis, superintendant of the forcing-houses of E. Steer, Esq., in Hamburgh, has succeeded by a new, and until now, unpraetised management in ripening high, ly flavored grapes by the 14th of January. Mr. Steer having exhibited at the meeting of the Horticultural So- ciety three difterent kinds of grapes as samples, the So- ciety unanimously resolved, to award Mr. Davis the pre- mium of the eight Hamburgh ducats. Mr. Davis's method of procedure is quite novel to us, and will prove of the highest importance to those who desire to grow very early crops of grapes. While at Demerara and Trinidad, he observed with admiration the judicious d2 42 IrORCING GRAPES IN HOT-HOUSES. management of the inhabitants, by which they have a continuous crop of ripe grapes throughout the year. For that purpose they make choice of a border pkmted with strong three year old vines, of the following late bearing kinds ; black Alicant, Chasselas rouge, and blue Franken- thala. If the ov/ner of such a border wishes to have ripe grapes in January, he sews up the vines in a coarse, loose linen canvass, lays them down, and covers them closely with wooden shutters. These shutters must be covered with about two feet of earth, and then an extra covering of leaves over the whole, sufficient to prevent any influ- ence of the sun. Although, in the experiment made by Mr. Davis, the vines employed were but one year old, he still succeeded, perfectly, in raising a crop of ripe grapes by the middle of January. The forcing-house was heated by steam, and Mr. Davis suggests, that in vineries heated by flues, the vines should be well syringed in a temperature of 16° 17*^ Reaumur. The Society are gratified to have called forth, through the means of the premium awarded to Mr. Davis, this ingenious method, practised in tropical Amer- ica. Although Mr. Arkwright exhibited before the Hor- ticultural Society of London, twenty-five years ago, grapes ripened in January, yet his method requi red at least three years preparation for the 4ate ripening varie- ties. Mr. Arkwright's method appears to have consisted in the use of pine-houses and vineries, adapted to pro- duce a later display of their leaves ; but this method, if a successful one, was not suflaciently made known in its details, to be of any public advantage. In Mr. Davis's method, vines are selected which have never produced fruit, and they are retarded by a double repose, from their usual growth, in order that they may push at a late period with the more vigor. It is a well known fact in vegetable physiology, and one which must be observed in all early forcings, that there is a period of vegetation in summer, and one of re- pose in winter, in all plants. All vegetables produce, with few exceptions, their blossoms and fruits once in the year FORCING GRAPES IN HOT-HOUSES. 43 and then return to a state of repose, in order to collect new vigor for the new vegetation. In the same way the grape vine will long produce fruit annually, though at different seasons, if the period of repose be changed and effectually carried out ; rest being a leading rule, without which no plant can produce good fruit. To attain tbis, the vines, after they have been planted one, two or three years in a prepared house, must be forced as early as pos- sible in a temperature of lo'^ to 17° Reaumur, so as to obtain healthy and vigorous shoots, which must be al- lowed to bear no fruit or lateral branches, in this way strong vines, and of a necessary length, will be obtained. By the end of March these vines will have grown so much, that the wood will be prepared for ripening in the month of April, which must be effected by a decline of temperature to 8° — lO'^ Reaumur. In the beginning of May the vines must be taken down, and, after having lain fourteen days, they must be sewed up in coarse can- vass, covered v/ith shutters, and the shutters with earth and leaves. There they must remain until the end of July. In August begin to air them by degrees, and in the month of September the covers should be taken off, the vines trimmed and tied up. The forcing should now commence, giving the vines a moist atmosphere, and a temperature of 16*^ — 18° Reaumur, until the fruit is ripe. The season of the vines is then changed, and by the same attention to the time of repose, they will bear as readily and abundantly in winter as at any other season. J. A. OHLENDORFF, President of the Horticultural Society and Director of the Botanical Garden at Hamburgh. INSECTS, BLIGHT, ROTTING, &c. About the 8th of June, while the vine is in flower, and throwing its peculiar and delicious perfume around, its great enemy, the rose-bug^ makes its appearance and feeds with voracity on 44 INSECTS, BLIGHT, ROTTING. the sweet and delicate blossom. In a few days after their first appearance, thousands are seen car- f rying destruction throughout the vineyard. The r I best remedy I could ever devise, is to go among ? the vines early in the morning, before the sun has warmed them into activity, and they are then easily made to fall into the hand or on the ground, and may be crushed and destroyed. If rose bushes are near they will prefer to rest on them. A few I mornings spent in this way will clear a vineyard. ' They are a short lived enemy. I have observed in the city, that spiders and cater- pillars are in some degree destructive to the green fruit. Spider- will get to the centre of the cluster and cause the fruit to fall in single grapes. The caterpillar attacks the stem^ and the whole green cluster falls to the ground. In cities, rats will sometimes come in droves in the night and destroy the ripe fruit — dogs and poul- try will also eat them if they are allowed to get at them. In the latter part of July, the blight or rot, takes place where vine§ are cultivated in fields, but it is seldom seen in cities. Great quantities of fruit will become brown and sometimes black and fall off. It is seen as much on the high as the low vines, and no less on fruit exposed to the^sun, than in the shade. Some have ascribed thio to the operation of the sun shining through drops of dew on the leaves, and operating as a lens. I have supposed it the result of bad trimming, or want of sufficient trimming ; and that the exuberance of the vine, like the apple and peach tree, might thus disbur- den itself of a portion of its fruits. As an experi- ment, I discharged on the vines with a syringe soap suds, to which had been added lime and sul- phur. I feared I should lose all my grapes, but to INSECTS, BLIGHT, ROTTING. 45 my surprise I had a good crop notwithstanding and the remaining fruit was much better for this natural pruning. Small worms will sometimes appear in a dense chister in the under part of the leaf, and sometimes a large worm two or ihree inches long, like those on the vines and leaves of the potato and the to- mato. These must be sought out and destroyed. A writer in the Southern Agriculturist as a re- medy for the rotting of the grapes, has practiced very high culture with success, on dry and un- shaded arbors. He observes that his vines pro- duce more and better grapes thus trained, and they are of a convenient height and width to drive a wagon under ; and the}^ are also out of the way of pilferers, unless they carry a ladder with them. Mr. Clark, in the Southern Agriculturist, advises deep planting of the vine, and ascribes the rot or mildew to great rain after a drought, when the top roots receive rain to repletion. The vine has a propensity to form a tap root which protects it from the extremes of moisture and dryness. To favor the formation of a tap root deep planting is requisite. Mr. C gives an instance of a Swiss cultivator who planted his vines in a ditch or trench more than three feet in depth, and after they were of good grov\^th filled near the surface with poor earth, to retard the surface roots. No rot or mil- dew was ever knovv^n among his vines, VINEYARD CULTURE. When the vines are three years old they may be set in a vineyard, and at a proper distance to be trained on the supporters. These will vary ac cording to the convenience or circumstances of the proprietor. In 1831, my vineyard of three hun- dred Isabella vines had become sufficiently large 46 VIWITARD CULTURE. to be permanently trained. The rows were eight feet apart, and vines eight feet in the rows. Com- mon posts eight feet long were put two feet in the ground and eight feet apart, having a vine mid- way between the posts. My trellis was composed of lath or strips of sawed boards, nailed to the posts, the lower lath being one foot from the ground, and three above — the upper one being quite at the top of the posts. The extraordinary growth of the Isabella vines soon rendered them crowded and tangled. 1 trimmed the main branches along the lowest rail horizontally, and caused the branches about one foot apart to ascend vertically in a crook- ed or serpentine form to the top rail. — (See Fig. 6.) But I am diffident of giv- ing advice about training large and vigorous Isa- bella vines, in open rows ■ — they grow best and appear best trained on arched arbors eight or ten feet high The weight of fruii and vine requires something to rest upon ; and if tied to a trellis or railing, they will ascend above the railing and be thrashed about by the wind and broken. In March, 1832, 1 sold ten thousand cuttings of the Isabella Grape, to William Underbill, of Croton Point, near Sing Sing, now New York, who has a flourishing - TINITARD CULTUfiK. 47 vineyard there of seven acres, from which he sends his fruit to New York. His brother, Dr. R. T.- Underhillj whose farm and vineyard adjoins, culti- vates twenty acres in the Isabella and Catawba grapes, which are sent to New York. As Dr. Underbill is a very intelligent and successful culti- vator, I shall notice him and his vineyard hereafter. — His vines are supported by posts from to 12 feet apart in the rows — the vines are distant about 6 feet in the rows. The rows are mostly from 6 to 8 feet apart. The posts are about six feet above ground. The vines are trained on three ranges or trellisis on wires, the lower one being about a foot from the ground, and the upper one quite at the top. He had no regular system at the time of planting his first vineyard ; but the public will hereafter be favored with the results of his experience. The wire as also each end of the upright posts, had been immersed in coal tar, probably warm, as a preservation from rust or rot. The wires were wound around nails, driven into the posts within an inch of the head. This makes a very strong and durable support to the vines, and the appearance is neat and good. A system of very close pruning gives the vines plenty of sun and air, and thns the best fruit is obtained. I have in a few instances trained vines upon large apple trees, and they ran quite to the top, and the grapes were abundant among the apples ; but this mode is not to be recommended. The fruit was bad, and trimmmg quite impracticable, In the city of Brooklyn, ^mon^ high buildings, with proper pruning, the isabcllt^ .Vines'neVer fail to pro- duce abundantly ec^^y seasoru This; is extraordi- nary and unlike frnit .trees in general, and it may truly be said that thio dqlignlfnl x^nft every season '*cheeretb ib8 heart of millions.''* ' 48 AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. Change of earth at the roots.— Is has been re- commended that on a fine day, as soon as the frost is out of the ground in the spring, the earth be re- moved from the roots of old vines and a sohition of alum and clay be dissolved in water and poured upon the roots, and the earth changed about the roots. I do not mean to recommend these experi- ments ; but where old vines are from any cause declining, they may be benefitted Supports and distances. — I think it will be found that the plan adopted by Mr. Bonsall, [see page, 62] and subsequently by Dr. Underbill [see page 47] of supporting vines on stout loires, and on posts ten feet apart^ is the most economical. Mr. B. uses wire No. U, softened. Dr. U. gives his wire a coating of coal tar. One part of this economy is, that the tendrils of the vine in some measure work their own support around the wire. Three lines of wire are turned around nails driven in the posts— the lovv^er line should be about a foot from the ground. Wire of No. 1 1 to 15 may be recom- mended, which will cost from $8 to $9 per 100 pounds. Each pound would probably measure from 20 to 24 feet. IMack varnish would make a good coating for the wire. AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. Scuppernoti^ Grape. — We place this as the very jfirst of American grapes yet known Its produc- tiveness is almost beyond credibility, as will be seen, and its qualities for the table an i for wine are esteemed very great. It is sometimes called the Hickma^n gra.pe, 2if\^ tlie. ma^h who first brought it from the^Sup:pe^Jong'river lino f^cwbern, North CarobrTd, from whenge it soon acquired favor among the farmers i^.nd gardners, in that vicinity. AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. 49 Captain William Burlingham, has cultivated four a-cres for eighteen years, and has wine of great age. A single vine has produced him a ton of fruit, and made eight barrels of wine of tlie best quality. It grows on sandy land which is fit lor nothing else, and the vine has proved good after sixteen years. The grape is of a white color, but there is an in- ferior grape called ^Scuppernong, which is of a pur- ple color. It is dicecious, which is one reason for Us noi succeeding with those who do not procure the kindred vine Mr. James Blount, of the Scup- pernong river, diffused a knowledge of this excel- lent grape in some well written papers, published in North ^Jarolina. It is a singular fact that in M. Carolina the vines are never trimrned, and this fact may lead to interesting experiments to know what effect this practice, which is every where consider- ed very essential in vine cult sire, might have on this vine. In making Scuppernong wine, one sixth of its quantity of proof spirits is added, ^-ugar or water is said to spoil it. It is said to be very difficult, if not impossible, to propagate this vine by cuttings It must be done by roots, or by layers, in the manner liercin desciibed. Lsfibella Grape. — Xext to the Scuppernong: we may be allowed to rank the Isabella, which ap- pears to grow well in all parts of our extensive country, although probably in its greatest excel- lence on Loiig island. The fruit is dark purple, of huge size, fine down, and plea>'arit perfume- -(he f )rni oval— clusters loose and loiig, tu'o seeds, pulp very juicy, with thin red crust, n'ear the skin — the skin very thin. It is found to improve much with cultivation. It is a very great bearer, and if al- E 50 AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. lowed, the vines will cover a large space. Good for the table and for wine. It is cultivated from Boston to Florida. It is a 'poly s^ainmi^ plants Calaicha. — As third in rank^ we would name the Catawba. This is one of the best native American grapes both for the table, and for wine. Berries of a pale red or lilac color — bunches large with shoulders thick set — slight musty taste, and delicate flavor — thin skin, and very little pulp. It grows well in the viciniiy of New York, and is a good bearer. The late Mr. Adtum, regarded it as his best wine grape. It ripens the last of Septem- ber. Mr. Longworth, who is a distinguished cul« livator of grapes in Ohio, says — " The Catawba is superior as a wine and table grape to the Isabella and matures its fruit better, though a less abundant bearer. We have native grapes in most of our states, could a selection be made, which would leave us little cause to regret that foreign grapes succeed so badly with us." Cape or Alcxinder Grape, — This is the grape much used in the Vevay, and other western vme- yards. Norton's Seedl'ms;. — Dr. Norton, of Virginia, obtained this grape from the seed of the Blandy Iructified with pollen of the Meiinier, or Miller's Burgundy. * Native Grape.^^k correspondent of the Boston Cultivator, speaks in high terms of a seedling grape purchased of G. B. Emerson, Esq., of Boston. The size of the berry is said to be about that of an ounce bullet, or of the sweet water grape. The flavor is rich, much more so than the Isabella. It has no pulp or foxy taste. It is not likely to be injured bv trost, as it puts out about ten days later than the Isabella, and ripens a month earlier. It AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. 5 1 was iia ealiiig the latter part ot August, The vine is perfectljr hard}^ If this description is correct, this grape is well worthy of being more known and cultivated. lis early ripening is greatly in its favor as a northern grape. 1 would particularly recommend it to our amateur and experimental cultivators. Herbemont? s Madeira^ JVarrenlQn Grape. — This grape is raised near Baltimore. It had foreign origin and is a great bearer. In the state of Mis- sissippi wine is made of this grape : and in that state they have a very fine grape, called the Jack Grape, Onvig'sburuk Grapd. — A fine round grape, dis- covered by Dr. Hulin, of Phikdelphia. It is of f?mall si^e — very hardy — said to he hybrid.. A new grape has been announced in the papers as native of Italy, and taken from under the ^umv in Savoy and Piedmont. — Some of the wine of these vines was brought to New York in 1845. by Mr- Lester, Consul at Geneva, and a quantity of the vines sold by Wm. H. Franklin & Son. Tlie wine is stated to be of the very best, and the grape would probably succeed well in our climate. Great ProdiicilveneyS. — A vine was raised bv Mr. Willis, of Maryland, which in 1832, had 25^ 000 bunches of graphs; and in the following year. 1833, his neighbours, 0. M. LJromwell, and 11. Monkland, certify to have counted 54,490 Punches, omitting small and young bunches, which would have added at least 3,000 more. Woodson Grape, — A native of Prince Edward County, Virgmia, color red, berry of a medium size between tlie Chicken and the large Fox — the bunches very compact, and weighing about four ounces — free from pulp, and of a rich flavor — one small seed"-good for the table and for wine. 52 AMERICAN GUAI'ES AND VINE\'AKDS. Cutiitingkam Grape.--k native o^ Prince Ed- ward Coiinlv, Virginia. — Black or deep purple-- bunches ragged and irregular-- free from pulp and rich in saccharine matter — the skin (hick and leathery— one small seed— good for the table and for wine. Boston, yi7o 6-5.— Great quantities of grapes are raised in and about Boston, but we do not know of any large vineyards for wine or for the Market.— Men of wealth raise foreign varieties in hot houses, and the finest grapes I have ever seen were at the Horticultural exhibitions in that city. Nantucket, Mass. — Vines are said to be cultivat- ed in Nantucket in considerable quantities. Louisv'Ulc^Kntucky.—My: John I.. Martin, has a vineyard of 20 acres of Catawba grapes. The vines are in rows, at 8 and 10 feet apart between the rows. V'uvyard at Glasgoii^ IC ntuckij. — This vind-' yard was planted by James G. Hicks and a Swiss Gentleman in 1814. — It comprises five acres. The grapes first planted were Madeira, Claret^ Cape, Burgundy and Champaign. — The Claret and Cape thrive well, and the others were abandoned. — Mr. H. is convinced that a vineyard well cultivated will yield from 3U0 to 500 gallons per acre, and that one man can with ease cultivate five acres. At Gtrmantuivn, Penn. — Mr. Edward H. Ron- sail, has a vineyard commenced in 1825, which in 1830, had 3,500 vines. Mr. B. prefers the Ca- tawba, the Black Madeira, and the Isabella grapes, and makes a quantity of good wine. Mr. B. plant- ed his vineyard in rows eight feet apart, and vines five feet in the rows. His trellis is of No. 11 iron wire made soft, and sustained on chesnut posts seven feet long set in the ground ten feet apart — three lir.es of wire between the ground and the top AMERICAN GRAPES AND VINEYARDS. 63 of the post The wire is drawn tight, and turned around nails in the posts. The wire trelhs saves part of the labor of tying, as the tendrils will natu- rally twine themselves around it. This trellis also admits freely the sun and air. Mr. B. allows each vine, afier it attains five years of age, to bear fifty dusters on an average. When fresh pruned, his vines are not more tTian four feet high at any age. At Galliopolis, Ohio, good wine is nriade. In Maryland and Virginia, the Bland grape grows abundantly. It passes in Virginia under the name of the Virginia Muscadel. It ripens in Philadelphia in the first week of Octoberj and hangs on the vines till December. Brinkleyville, N. C— S. Weller, P. M., in Nov, 1844, informed the Editor of the Cultivator, that among his vines the Scuppernong ranks first south of lat. 37 1-2, but of no superior excellence north of that. Norton's Virginia Seedling, good every where as far as heard. — Weller' s Halifax, Vine Arbor, fe. — The Catawba, Isabella, Herbemonts^ Madeira, are cultivated. Mr. W, says — " I plant all but the scuppernong 10 feet each way ; bui for that 30 feet each way is full near. At 40 feet, well managed, they will form a canopy over head in 10 or 12 years. Some branches of mine at that age extend 60 feet each way. VARIOUS u-r:s of the vinp]. Every part of the crop of the vineyard is of use to mm and animals, and nothiiisr need be lost or wasted. The leaves and green prunings are eaten by horses, cows, and sheep. The leaves should never be taken from the vine, but when they fall e2 Oi VARIOUS UfcEd OF THE VINE. tliey may be gathered and mingled with hay, to which they impart a very grateful flavor and odour. It" k'ft on the ground or ploughed under, they con- stitute the best manure for the vines. Many heaUng virtues have been ascl'ibed to the sap of the vine, which runs very profusely if a twig is cut too late in the season. Fresh Isabella grapes are much seen on the tables in New York and Brooklyn, during the New Year Holidays. They are preserved in clusters, in lay- ers of cotton, or in dried saw-dust or bran. Inti nipcrance le^ trained. — No truth is better es- tablished than the fact that intemperance and drun- ken ncss are much less known in wine countries, than in other parts where the vine is not cultivat- ed. This single circumstance is of immeasutable importance in these United States, where it is abun- dantly proved that alcoholic liquors, are the cause oi more bloodshed, vice, misery, and crime, than a't the other causes united. VVliatever has a ten- dency to check or abridge this national evil, mosi surely engage the best exertions of the philanthro- pist and statesman. An American returned from Europe, says — " I have passed three years in France, where 1 never saw a drunken French- man. Eighteen months in Italy, and in that timet not an Italian intoxicated. Nearly two years in Switzerland, of which I cannot say the same, but I can sa'ely aver, that during that period I did not see twenty drunken men, and whenever my feel- nigs were pained at beholding a prostration so sad over better principles, it was invariably on an oc- casion of extraordinary festivity, ' The Swiss are by no means an intemperate people, nor is it, so far as I have seen, the charac* ter of any wine growing country. In the argu- VARIOUS UoES OF THE VINE. 55 ments, therefore, which may fairly be urge. J in favor of the cultivation of the vine, a strtngly in* citing motive addresses our persi nal interest, and invites us to adopt a system by which our reve- nues will be increased, and agriculture improved. There is yet a more important light in which it appeals to our public spirit, and our better princi- plc., two thousand million of pounds ! Are you afraid tiiat our market v/ili be overstocked from the few vineyards which we have ? There are many books on the culture of the vine, but their doctrines are gxMierally not at all ap- CONVERSATIONS ON GRAPES. 61 plicable to our country. Europe has the moisture from the ocean — we have the dry winds blowing over our continent. More heat penetrates our ground in one of our hot, bright days, than Eng- land has in a week. The books of Europe are an honor and an ornament to the world — but they lead us from the truth frequently— such is the great difference of the climates of Europe and America, We must here select our best native grapes — there are many — of which we have now proved the Isabella and Catawba to be excellent. Plant the vines deep, on dry soil, where there are no springs of water— Oil slaty, calcareous, or other soils — but the drier they are, the better for the grape. A soil of brick clay will not do. The roots must be deep, (o avoid our severe droughts Plough the ground exceedingly deep before you plant your vineyard- 1 have found that in seven years' culture, the sav- age musk of my Isabella has vanished. Its charac- ter is greatly changed for the better. Its pulp i.s almost gone; its seeds are less. The culture of the vine has one great and emi- nent advantage over all other crops. If you plant it well, you will get an increasing crop for twenty- five years ; and every year (with rare exceptions) for fifty and even seventy-five years, a good crop. Vines will sometimes live a hundred years ! — and on our native vines you can have double the quan- tity which is obtained from a vine in Europe, where the vine has from ages of short pruning, become feeble, and attained its perfection. We do not let the vines bear one half as many grapes as they would if all were left on. Thin them out well. You will have better and richer fruit. Mr. Hyde.— How do you prune your vines ? Dr. Underbill.— I do not spur them? I cut CONVERSATIONS ON GRAPES. away the old, and bring the new vine to bear. Nineteen out of twenty persons spur-prune their vtnes in tliis city— leaving two eyes on. I keep my vines within about six feet in height for convenience in gathering the clusters. All kinds of animal substances are good for manure for vines. Street manure is excellent for them. They ought not, however, to be stimulated too highly for then they become profuse in foliage, and the fruit mil- dews and rots. An even regular growth ought to be kept up. Rotten sods mixed with barn-yard manure is good ior vines. Blood is good. Long Island might by means of the fish called Manhaden be made one beautiful vineyard ! Take the fish in June, make a hole near the root with a crowbar, push down a fish- -there will be no smell from it, and it is an admirable manure for grape. Composts of sea weed, black earth and cow and horse dung are good. Judge Livingston — Have you tried wood ashes'? Dr. Underbill — That is excellent on sandy lands where their phosphates are leeched off by rains, Prune in March ! they bleed, and my bleeding vines present a magnificent spectacle in the rays of the sun. Slight bleeding does not hurt them a bit! The buds start the better for it. The Ger- mans say, ^' If the juice runs out of the ends of the vines, we know we shall have a good crop !" In France and Italy, however, they do not prune so as to bleed their vines. A Member — You would do a good tbing if you would publish a set of plain, clear instructions for grape culture ! Dr. Underhill— That I have no time to do just yet, but am always happy to give any information CONVERSATIONS ON tJ RAPES. 63 IB my power at No. 400, Broadway, N. Y. ; will be there most of the time till May. At the next meeting the subject of grapes came up, and experiments were detailed of planting seeds tc produce new articles. Mr. Long worth of Ohio, who raises largely for making wine, planted the seeds and obtained several varieties, but few of which were as good, and none better than the original. The grapes of Ohio are not as good as those in this vicinity, though of the same species. Their Isabella and Catawbas do not compare with ours ; and the Ohio gr^ipe, which is the great fa- vorite, is no better than our Isabella. A curious statement of the sexes of plants was given The Scnppernong grape, which is very luxuriant and productive at the south, had been in- troduced here. The vine grew very well, but no grapes appeared, and on an investigation into the cause it was found to be the absence of the male plants, which grow spontaneously in North Caro- lina, in the woods and corners of fields, so as to preclude the necessity of planting it in the vine- yard, the pollen being transported by the wind and by insects. This Scnppernong grape is a very good one ; the vine grows like the banyan tree, forming root^ and limbs interminably. One in North Caro- lina covers two and a half acres of ground. The stock vine is sometimes two feet in circiimierence. Several years ago the wine of the Scnppernong grape was put on the table in this city with wines Irom Shirah in Persia, Constriutinople, Italy, France and other places. It was thought better far than the fanious Persian wine, and better than almost any of the varieties tried. A barrel of Scnppernong was lately put upon the lees of Madeira, and a few months after drawn off and pronounced excellent old Madeira, by good Judges. 64 CONVERSATIONS ON GRAPES. The vine lives to a great age. The Norchaller- ton vine in England Hved 400 years ; it died about 15 years since ; it was two feet in circumference. On the continent, they also live to about the same age. Some conversation was had upon the unsuccess- ful efforts to introduce the foreign grape into this country. A difference of opinion on its practica- bility seemed to exist ; but it is pretty evident from experience that it will not succeed unless the vine is covered. Dr. Underbill made some remarks upon the cul- ture of the grape— of the necessity of dry soils for vineyards, in order to get the best produce and the best flavor. His remarks were somewhat lengthy and nearly of the same tenor as those made at the last meeting. Some persons have taken off the leaves for the purpose of having their grapes ripen. This is a great mistake ; it is taking away the very lungs which perfect the sap for ripening and flavoring the fruit. Inquiries were made concerning a small green fly which molests the grape. Not much knowledge of its effects was brought out ; never- theless, it was thought proper to take efficient means to destroy it while in the calerpillai state. The rose bug must also be kept off the grape vine* This insect comes from the ground. They are de- stroyed by ploughing the vineyards in the fall. Birds do not desiroy grapes here, probably because the Isabella and Catawba are too large for their mouths. At a meeting in April, the following conversa- tion took place : Col. Clark. —A gentleman planted the seeds of ouir native giapes, and obtained a variety of nevr CONVERSATIONS ON GRAPES. 65 kinds of grapes. Why do we not find more varie- ties when the seeds are so distributed by birds, by animals, and by waters ? Our wild Fox Grape retains its peculiar character ; so does our Frost Grape. I have grafted on their stocks success- fully. Dr. Underbill. — Mr. Long worth, of Ohio, sowed large quantities of seed irorn the Isabella and Ca- tawba grapes he had pressed for wins. He had several acres of such vines, but few of them prov- ed to be as good, and none of them better than our Isabella and Catawba. It is said that these latter give better fruit here than they do at the South. The Ohio grape — the Norton's seedhng — is said to be no better than our highly cultivated Isabella or Catawba. The Norton is a very compact heavy cluster of round berries. Mr. Meigs. — What do you say to the Scupper- nong ? A gentleman was here the other day who promised to give me a precise account of some of those vines, one of which spread to such an extent as to cover two and a half acres — under the shelter of which large panics of ladies and gentlemen met in Fetes Cham.petres ! Dr. Underbill. — Their growth is propagated by laying a branch in the ground, where it roots and thus ^continues to great extent, but that process constitutes a new vine ! We find a difficulty in raising that grape for want of the male vine. The Scuppernong grape is large, but there are seldom more than ten or twelve berries in a bunch. They shake the vine when using them for wine and those grapes that are ripe fall off. As to the Bland grape of Virginia, it is of a mahogany color, of a mild sweet taste, but it is without the aroma of the Isabella and Catawba f2 66 CONVERSATIONS ON GRAPES. Col. Clark.. — The wild grape vines of the South, often attain from ten to twelve inches in diameter, and the branches run several hundred feet. Mr. Meigs. — I have at the soirees of my learned and amiable friend, the late Dr. Mitchell, lasted of Scuppernong wine, of wine of the islands Chios, Tenedos, of those of Syria, Greece, Constantinople, and some which I had from Shiraz in Persia, and the opinion then was, that there was no great supe- riority in any of them over the Scuppernong. Col. Clark. — I put the Scuppernong wine on the Lees of Madeira, and it was found to be excel- lent. Judge Van Wyck. — The grape vine is long- lived, and some of them cover a great space. In England, they are long-lived ; the North Allerton vine measured about four feet in circumference, and was 150 feet long. Some vines on the conti- nent reached 400 years of age, and were deemed young at 100 years. Theorists say that our cli- mate is not suited to the European grape ; but the vine, as to its capability of being acclimated, is as flexible ao its tendrils. We have not experimented much with them. England made wine from her grapes ages ago, bhe afterwards imported the continental vines. — England now raises clusters of grapes occasionally, which wei^h from ten to twelve pounds and more, and has grapes every month in the year. T have no doubt but that the European grapes will be in- troduced here. Many countries where the grape flourishes, have as much heat as we have here. Dr. Underhill — I have learned by my own ex- perience the difficulty of naturalizing the European grape here, and we have suffered in the experi- ments, in this country, the loss of millions of dol- CONVERSATIONS ON GRAPES. 6^ lars in trying them. Grapes were raised in Eng- land in the twelfth century, and they made wine there ; but now all the fine grapes of England are under protection either of walls or of glass. So we raise them here to a considerable extent, and shall raise many more. — But that is not the object ; we want to rover our hills and our fields with them. The foreign vines planted in our open grounds are nearly all gone ; they could not bear the violent fluctuations of our climate. I find the native vine flourishing among rocks where the materials of the rock washed down and the leaves fallen, accumulate — and in the alluvials along water courses, but that fruit is not good. Like some plants which are wholesome on dry soils and become poisonous in very wet situations. The wild vine at its first growth is tender and deli- cate, it seeks for support from a neighboring tree, perhaps a giant oak of ages ; it begins to entwine the tree, gradually ascends, reaches at last his lofty head and crowns him with his gold and purple clusters ! There is not a more profitable and certain crop than the grape — our Isabella will ripen where corn will ! and not fail once in ten years. It can be grown in favorable locations m Vermont, and pro- bably in Canada. If placed among rocks, it is found that the rocks being heated by the sun dur- ing the day, keep that warmth during the night so as to prevent frost, and the vine loves the position. Rank manure should never be applied to the vines. Mildew is one of the evils of that applica- tion. Never take off the leaves ! 1 have raised up some branches of foliage to cover my grapes more effectually in very hot days ! Let there be a free circulation of air among them ! 68 CONVERSATIONS ON GRAPES. Dr. Alex. H. Stevens. — Have your vines ever suffered from the small green fly ? Dr. Underbill. — I have never suffered so as to make it an object to destroy them. Dr. Stevens. — Do those flies appear most numer- ous where there is the least circulatiou of air 7 Dr. Underbill. — I cannot say that, but they al- ways assail the most feeble vines. The mud Swallows took possession of a bank near my vine- yard, and I found that they destroyed the flies. The young flies may be found, on the under side of the leaves, they appear as plant lice before they get their wings. — And I must say that those who mean to have fruit must destroy all hurtful in- sects. The Rosebug loves grapes — I have heretofore described the habits of this bug. In Hungary, vast flocks of blackbirds hover over vineyards — the men by firing guns keep them from settling, else they would soon destroy the whole crop of grapes. But in this country birds have not yet learned that grapes really are one of the good things of life. Dr. Underbill. — Wild grapes love alluvial wet positions, but their flavor is not to be compared with those growing in dry soils. The wild grape has a thick skin, hard pulp, large seeds. By cul- ture in dry situations, the skin and seeds become one half less thick and large, and the pulp almost disappears. The cranberry probably improves in all respects by the transfer from marsh to upland. As to grapes, iheir excellence is progressive with us. The Germans and Italians now say that our cultivated grapes are this year as good as the Eu- ropean — Grapes will degenerate by neglected cul- tivailon. MAKING OF WINE. 69 MAKING OF WINE. In the year 1827, I planted about three Iiundred cuttings of the Isabella grape vine, at a small place in Brooklyn, Long Island. They were much in- jured by my tenants, who planted the ground with potatoes, and did not coma into bearing until 1831. In the fall of that year I sent a quantity ot the fruit to the market, and made about fifty gallons of wine, merely as an experiment, as 1 supposed myself to be the first who had attempted to make wine of this grape. The wine was of two kinds, made in Oc- tober, 1831, and in the April following was put in- to bottles, and one bottle of each kind sent to about fifty persons in different parts, who were supposed to feel an interest in the matter. One kind was made of pure juice, to which two pounds of sugar to each gallon was added. The other kind was composed of one-third water to two-thirds juice — 3 pounds of sugar to each gallon — one gallon of brandy to a cask of nineteen gallons. Some of this wine attained five years, and was pronounced very excellent. I received from several persons to whom I had sent specimens of my wine, letters complimentary on my success, with remarks and advice relative to future experiments. The following from the late Zachariah Lewis, Esq., of Brooklyn, alludes to his possession of the original vine : Brooklyn^ April 20, 1832. Col. Spooner, Sir : — I have the pleasiire to ac- knowledge the receipt of your circular, accompanied with the two bottles of Isabella Wine of your own manufac- turing. You will please accept my thanks for your polite ^0 MIKING OF WINE. attention, together with a bottle of Isabella Wine, made by myself in September, 1830. Finding that a part of my grapes of that season, were not likely to ripen, and having read Adliim's account of making wine of " Immature Grapes," I concluded to try the experiment on a small scale. About one third of the grapes on each cluster had turned a dark purple, another third were red, and the remainder were still white and not half grown. I pursued the general process recom- mended in Mr. Adlum's Memoir, page 79 ; adopting, however, the mode of fermenting, suggested under the head of Variations of the j^rocess^ page 81. You will perceive, by turning to Mr. Adlum's receipe, that I gave a larger proportion of sugar and water, than was used in either of your samples. No brandy was added, with the exception of a half pint, previously put into the five- gallon cask to cleanse and sweeten it. The body of this wine is not equal to yours, but the flavor I think fine. Judging from your samples, and my own, I am persuaded, that the Isabella grape, whether partially or wholly ripe, will, after a few experiments, be found to make a wine of very superior quality and flavor. Your account of the introduction of this grape into this region is undoubtedly correct The first vine of this species, ever brought to this climate, was presented to Mrs. Isabella Gibbs ; and her husband gave it the name of his wife. It has already spread to Pennsylvania, New Jersey, every part of New York, the New-England States, Michigan, and the Canadas ; and the stump of the parent of all, to be found North of the Carolinas, is still visible in the garden now in my possession. I am, Sir, Very Respectfully, Your's, &c., Z. LEWIS. MAKING OF WINE. *J1 111 the year 1833, my little vineyard bore very abundantly, and I made, in October of that year, eight barrels of wine, it Wcis made in a variety of modes, to test the quality of the grape, and did not all prove good; but far the greater part was very excellent, and improved with ago. The grapes were gathered and thrown into tubs, without breaking the clusters, or separating the ripe from the unripe. They were broken by a common pounder, and merely cracking the skin is sufficient, and care should be taken that the seeds be not broken. The murk or jjomacQ^ is thrown into a large vat, which is covered with one or more blankets, to confine the heat and hasten fermenta- tion. A portion is sometimes warmed and added to the mass, to give it a start. The pomace rises on the top, and the whole will continue to rise and fer- ment upwards for four or five days. When it be- gins to sink, the fine liquor, as clear as oil, may be drawn by a tap from near the bottom of the vat as long as it will run clear. This makes the best wine. The pomace is then pressed in any conve- nient mode, and all the juice extracted. The li- quor is then called tnust, and in this state it is when any addition may be made, such as sugar or brandy. Nothing will incorporate well unless ad- ded before fermentation. I added in different casks from one to three pounds of sugar per gallon. If properly made, the wine does not require brandy, nor any other spirit, and is much better without it. After the sugar is added in due proportion to the must, it is put into casks in a moderately cool place, and just filled to the open bung, and allow- ed while fermenting to overflow. It will work briskly for a month or more, and when it sinks in the cask, must be filled up so as to overflow. It is 72 NAKING OF WINS. best to stop the, fermentation before it quite sub- sides, in order to preserve the fine aroma of the wine; and this is done by repeated rackings or drawing off into casks, previously smoked with sulphur, by burning in them rags dipped in melted brimstone. If any particular flavor is desired to be communicated artificially^ it must be done while the must is in the early stages of fermentation. It will probably continue to ferment after this sul- phuring and racking ; and it may then be fined or clarified. Many substances may be employed in this Whites of eggs — milk and sand — fish-glue, sometimes called isinglass, may be stirred into the wine, which may be racked off in a week or ten days afterwards. At every racking a quantity of sediment is removed from the bottoms of the casks, and these rackings and fining s mustbe con- tinued until the wine is perfectly pure. I commen- ced my wine making in October and considered it fit f)r bottling in the March folio vving. Although I was successful in making some good wine, yet I do not flatter myself that I know much about it. An excellent little book published by Mr. Adlum, of Georgetown, in the District of Columbia, who was a great cultivator of grapes and manu- facturer of wine, v/as my best guide in wine- making. The wine is of a beautiful red color, and at first appears sweet, but will gradually become sharper, and still retain the deiightful flavor, as well as odour of the grape. It difiuses an inward glow, cheering and healthful. I ascertained that a measured bushel of grapes, as they came from the vine in clusters, v/eighed thirty eight pounds. I also weighed 100 pounds of grapes and crushed them, and obtained a little MAKING OF WINE. 73 moro than nine gallons of juice. It thus requires eleven or twelve pounds of grapes for each gallon ot vi^ine. Mr. Longworth, says : — I have wine of my own manufacture, now six years old, the pure juice of the grape. In wine countries the new juice is often hoiled down till its fermenting quality is destroyed, and its saccharine quahty nearly doubled. Brandy is added to stop fermentation. Mr. N.' Longworth, of Delhi, in Ohio, obtained a premium in 1833 for a rich light wine from the Catawba grape. He also produced a good red wine from a native grape. Mr. L. manufactured 1 05 gallons of wine from one fourteenth part of an acre, Scuppeniong, — It is stated that Capt. Burling- ham, near Louisburgh^ in North Carolina, abou^ the year 1831, cultivated the Scuppernong grape with success. From twelve vines he made five- hundred gallons of wine, worth one dollar per gallon. One barrel of 7mjstt made oi the first gleanings, required 21 pounds, of sugar to make it bear an e^g ; while another barrel, of later grapes^ required but seven pounds. Wine ill Georgia. — Col. Alexander, of Jasper County, Georgia, had a vineyard of seven acres from which he made between one and two thou- sand gallons of wine, which he sold from $1 50 ta $2 00 per gallon He cultivates eight varieties of the grape. His soil is a rich red clay. A harsh grape to the taste will often produce very good wine. The wild grapes of the Swamps on Long Island, have been successfully used for wine. At Yevay, they have had as hip:b as 500 gallons 74 TO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES. of wine per acre, but more often only 150, and 260 is considered a good crop. Women in grape countries do about one half the labor. A writer in the National Intelligencer, says — ''About 1,600,000 arpents, or 1,350,400 acres are in France employed in the culture of the vine. The value of the annual product is about 100,808,- 000 dollars, at about 20 cents per gallon. Willi . — That wine is the strongest and has most flavor in which both the skins and stones are bruised and fermented. Mr. Jefferson, in a letter to Maj. Adlum, dated April 20, 1810. says — " Be assured that there is never one atom of anything whatever put into any of the good wines made in France. 1 name that country because 1 can vouch the fact from the as- surance to myself of the vignerons of all the best wine cantons of that country which I visited my- self." One bushel of grapes yielded Maj. Adlum three gallons of wine. Many farmers near Fayetteville, North Caro- lina, have for many years drank excellent wine oi their own raising from native grapes. TO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES. It oftens happens that the grapes on the Isabella and Catawba vines do not fully ripen, and are en- tirely unfit for eating. In such cases they may be converted into very excellent wine. The late Mr. Adlum, ot Georgetown, sent the following letter to the Editor of the Pouthern Agriculturist, which is full of information on this matter ; TO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES. 75 JFrom the Columbian Gazette. We acknowledge the receipt of four bottles of wine from Majoi- Acllum, accompanying his re- ceipt in our paper of to-day for making wine from the wild grape, as a specimen of what our coun- try can produce with trifling labor. How much better would it be for the health, comfort and mor- als of our fiirmers, if they would bestow more attention upon the manufacture of an article which requires so little trouble and expense, and which is so infinitely superior to the poisonous trash of every description sold under the various names of spirits. Bomestic wine, Oider and Perry are not only more wholesome but cheaper than ardent spirits. We have every variety of soil and climate, and only need a little experience to rival tho most famous wines of Madeira, Franco or Spain. Mr. Editor. — As there is now growing over the whole face of our country, thousands of bush- els of wild grapes, and as the Fox-^rape i.s now nearly of the size it will come to when at matur- ity, I have written the accompanying receipt^ which if you publish in your useful paper, it may be of some advantage to the public in general. J have, according to this receipt, m^^Q wines of various qualities, some of which accompanies this -'-it was sometimes at three or four years old equal to the best Madeira^ according to the opinions of good judges, and none of it so bad as the low priced rot gvt wines now imported, such as your Malagas, Clarets, &c., and it is as salubrious as the best of those imported. I have made wine of a Fox-irrape that was pronounced by Mr. Jeffer- son and others, equal to the Burgundy of Chum- '^6 TO MAKE Wine of immature grapes. beriin^ one of the best wines in France, and it was at the time compared with Burgundy he had on his table, imported by himself when he was Presi^ dent of the United States. And last autumn I made a pipe of wine from the common small grane, growing spontaneously on the fences, stone-heaps and shrubs, by some called the Chicken, and by others the Ciolijon grape ; it is the Vitis silvesirisy or blue bunch grape ot Bartram, This wine was pronounced by several ladies and gentlemen re- cently trom France, equal to and of the flavor of Bur ^imdify that cost in France jive francs per bottle. I am, Sir, Very Respectfully Yours. ^ variety whether wild or cultivated,) and bruise them in successive portions, by a pres- sure sufficient to burst the berries without break- ing the seeds : four gallons of water are then to be poured ijito the vessel, and the contents are to be carefully stirre and squeezed by the hand until the whole of the juice and pulp are separated from TO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES. "77 the solid matter. The materials aie then to re^ main at rest for a period from six to twenty-four hours, when they are to be strained through a coarse bag, by as much force as can conveniently be applied to them — one gallon of iresh water may afterwards be passed through the marc^ for the purpose of removing any soluble matter which may have remained behind Twenty-five pounds of good clean sugar, either brown or white, are now to be dissolved in the juice thus procured ^ and the total bulk of the fluid made up with water, to the amount of ten gallons and n half ''he liquor thus obtained is the artificial must, which is equivalent to the juice of the grape. It is now to be introduced into a tub of sufficient ca- pacity, over which a blanket or similar texture, covered by a board, is to be thrown, the vessel be- ing placed in a temperature of from 60"^ to 80° of Fahrenheit's Thermometer. Here it may remain for twenty-four hours or two days, according ta the symptoms of fermentation which it may show, and from this tub it may be drawn into casks to fer- ment. When in the cask it must be filled to the bung-hole, that the scum which arises from the bot- tom may be thrown out as the fermentation pro- ceeds, and the bulk of the liquor in the cask dimin- ishes, the superfluous portion of the raiist, {viz. the half gal.) which was made for the express purpose, must be poured in so as to keep the liquor still near the bung hole. When the fermentation becomes a little languid, as may be known by the dimunitiou of the hissing noise, the bung is to be driven in and a hole bored by its side, into which a wooden peg is to be fitted — this peg may be drawn once ir^ two or three days, for a few minutes, to let the air that has been generated escape — ouid in about thre^ YS TO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES. weeks or a monih it may be drove in permanently tight. The wine thus made must be put into a cool cellar, as it is no longer necessary to promote the fermentation process. If the operator is not in- clined to bestow any further labor or expense, he may examine it in some clear cold day in January or February, or the beginning of March, when if it is fine and bright, as it frequently will be, it may be bottled without further precautions. To insure its fineness, however it is the better practice to rack or decant it towards the end of December into a fresh cask (fumigated with sulphur) so as to clear it of its lees. At this time also, the operator will be able to determine whether it is not too sweet for his views. In this case, instead of rack- ing it, &c , he will stir up the lees so as to renew the fermenting process, taking care alsato increase the temperature at the same time. At whatever time the wine is racked it ought to be fined. Some- times it may be necessary to rack it a second time into a fresh cask,(i/ the wine is not 'perfectly bright^) and again repeat the operation of fining. All these removals should be made in clear, dry, and if possible, in cold weather. In any case it must be bcttled during the month of March. The wine thus produced will generally be brisk, and similar in its qualities to the v/ines of Cham- paign^ with the strength of the best SLcily. Circumstances which cannot always be control- ed^ will sometimes cause it to be sweet and still, and at others to be dry. Variation of the process described above. — The skin of the grape or the whole marc, as well as the juice may be fermented together in the vat or tub ^long with the sugar in the first stage of the pro- TO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES. 79 cess. The fermentation will thus be more rapid, and the wine prove stronger and less sweet, but it will acquire more flavor. Cream of tartar^ or which is preferable, c.rude tartar, may be added to the must in the proportion of six ounces to ten gallons or one pound to a barrel. Jf it is wished to have a very sweet as well as brisk wine, the sugar may be increased five pounds for every ten gallons. And in this case if the fruit is increased to fifty pounds instead of forty, or in that proportion, and keep it two years in the cask, it will assume a Madeira flavor^ and it will be a pleasanter and better wine than most Madeira now imported. If the wine is intended to be less sweet, that is, five pounds less of sugar to the ten gallons, if it is not bottled in March, it will, after ihe month of August or September, be a better wine than the Fre7ich Madeira now imported. But in all the above pr >cesses if it is bottled in March, it will seven times out of ten sparkle like Champaign. And all sparkling wines to drink ihem in perfec- tion ought to be drank in from twelve to eighteen months after it is made. To insure briskness without excessive sweet- ness, the fruit must be increased to fifty pounds, when the sugar is from 25 to 30 pounds. If, dur- ing the fermentation of wine thus formed, there should appear any danger of the sweetness van- ishing altogether, it may be racked into a cask, fumigated with sulphur, and the fermentation checked by fining. Thus it will be speedily fit for use. The best mode of fining Wines that I am acquaint- ed with is as follows, say for a cask of from thirty to thiity-four gallons ; 90 TO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES, Draw off a gallon or more wine, then take one quart of milk immediately from the cow alter milking, and before any separation takes place, to which add two table spoonfuls of salt and one of the sweet spirits of niire — mix it with the wine drawn, and pour it into your cask and stir it well, and leave the bung loose for about twelve hours, and then drive it tight— and in from eight to twelve days it will be beautifully fine and bright, and is ready to bottle. If the fermentation is complete, and all the sweet principle turned to alcohol, fining is unnecessary, as the wine will be perfectly fine and bright — and it is only to be fined when there is small particles floating in it, or cloudy ; and when all the sedi- ment, mucilage and other impurities are got clear of, either by fermentation or fining, it will then keep for an age or ages— no matter for its strength, without it should extract some fermenting principle out of the cask. Ohio Wine. — From an elaborate Report, pre- sented to the Horticultural Society of Cincinnati by Dr. Flagg, it appears that there are seventy - eight vineyards in Hamilton Co., Ohio, of which more than fifty are cultivated by Germans. About two hundred acres are planted with the grape, of which one hundred are in bearing order. The Cincinnati Gazette extracts the following facts from the Report : The amount of wine made last year exceeded 22,000 gallons, notwithstanding more than one- half the crop was cut off by the frost and rot, and many of the vineyards are but just coming into fruit. The average yield of wine per acre, for five years in succession, is estimated at 450 to 500 gallons, which sells quick at ^1 to $1,50 per gallon. There TO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES. 81 will be at least one hundred more put down to grapes this spring, making three hundred in all, in Hamilton county. There are also, eight or ten vineyards m Kentucky, within a dozen miles of this city. The varieties of gi ape generally culti- vated are the Catawba and the Cape ; the latter is called at the East, the Schuylkill Muscadel, and furnishes the red wine. I'hat from the Catawba is white, and sells the highest. The Isabella, so popular at the Kast, is universally thrown up here, as unsuited to the climate. N. Longworth, Esq., has experimented exten- sively in the culture of American grapes. His opin- ions are, therefore, entitled to attention We give an extract from an address recently delivered ; " I have found no foreign grape that will pay the expense of open culture in our climate. Native vines, planted on ground with no other preparation than deep ploughing, have thus far succeeded bet- ter than those on steep side-hills, where the ground was prepared with great expense. Those parts of my vineyard fully exposed to the north have often ripened their fruit better than those with a southern exposure. Some of the finest vines of France are made in a northern latitude, and on hills fully ex- posed to the north. " Others are deterred from the cultivation of the vine, from an impression that great skill is neces- sary. The vine requires less science in its culti- vation than the peach or apple tree ; and the manu- facture of wine is a more simple process than that of cider. CleanHness and careful exclusion of un- ripe and decayed fruit are the great requisites. Wines may be improved after they are completed, 82 lO MAKE WINE OF IMMATURE GRAPES. by a mixture of the strong with the weak, the dry with the sweet, the flavorless with that possessing a high flavor ; but this is the province of the wine- merchant. " Again, it is said we cannot succeed with the manufacture of wine, because the addition of sugar is necessary to our grapes to give tiieni the requi- site sweetness. I hav^ wine of my own manufac- ture, now six years old, 'the pure juice of the grape. But in all wine countries, unless it be in those where light hard wines are made, sugar is added, or its equivalent In Madeira, Xeres, Oporto, various methods are resorted to. The grapes are suffered to hang till a bunch of raisins can be plucked — or a portion of the must is boiled down, till its fermenting quality is destroyed, and its sac- charine nearly doubled, or a portion of the unfer- mented must is mixed with such a quantity of brandy as to stop the process of fermentation^ and these are added to the must or wine. After the wine is perfected, from five to twelve per cent, of brandy is added. Even in the sunny clime of Italy, to enable then- wme to keep wuiiout the ad- dition of sugar, they boil the must, and the wine so made is called " Yino Cotto." In Germany and France, sugar is frequently added. But in all these cases, the fermentation is checked before its completion, and the leaven precipitated by sul- phuring and frequent racking. From experience, 1 am perfectly satisfied that it is immaterial whe- ther the saccharine principle be in the grape or added to the must in the form of sug-ar. " The reason so many have failed in the manu- facture of domestic wine, is that, instead of making American wine, they have, by the process of manufacture, attempted to produce an imitation of popular foreign wines, RECEIPT FOR MAKING CURRANT WINE. 83 '* The Schuylkill, Muscadel or Cape grape, the Isabella or Catawba, are the American grapes most in use for the manufacture of wine. The first by age becomes a good wine, The second will make a rich, sweet wine, by the process of manufacture necessary to accomplish this object, but it does not improve by age. From the ( 'ataw- ba, Major Adlum makes a rich sweet wine. The wine which I manufacture from this grape is a light, dry wine, resembling those of the Rhine, and will successfully compete with any of them, but they are wines now for the first time coming in use among us, and command a high price. " I have two other native grapes under cultiva- tion, from which I have yet made only a few quarts of wine of great promise. They are also first-rate table grapes The best wine of American manu- facture that I have seen resembling Madeira, is made by a French gentleman of great intelligence, in South Carolina, Mr. Herbemont. He sent me a sample. Itis made from a grape called the War- ren, or Herbemont's Madeira. I obtained thi^ grape from him four years since, and do not hesi- tate to pronounce it an American grape, common in North Carolina, and to be found as far west as Missouri. As a table grape, it is equal to many imported varieties. RECEIPT FOR MAKING CURRANT WINE. Gather your currants when full ripe, which will commonly be about the middle of July ; break them well in a tub or vat, (some have a mill con- structed for the purpose, consisting of a hopper, fixed upon two lignum vitse rollers) press and mea- 84 RECEIPT FOR MAKING CURRANT WINE/. iure yoar juice, add tw/^o-thii'd^ water*, find to each gallon of that mixture, (i. e. juice and water) put three pounds of muscovado sugar (the cleaner iand drier the better ; very coarse sugar, first clarified, will do equally well) stir it well, till the sugar is quite dissolved, and then turn it up. If you can possibly prevent it, let not your juice stand over night, as it should not ferment before mixture. Observe that your casks be sweet and clean, and such as never had either beer or cider in them, and, if new, let them be first well seasoned. Do not fill your casks too full, otherwise they will work out of the bung, which is by no means good for the wine ; rather make a proportionable quantity over and above, that, after drawing off the wine, you may have a sufficiency to fill up the casks. Lay the bung lightly on the hole, to prevent the flies, &c. from creeping in. In three weeks or a month after making, the bung-bole may be stopped up, leaving only the vent hole open till it has fully done working, which generally is about the latter end of October. It may then be racked off* into other clean casks if you please ; but experience ssems to favor the letting the winu stand on the lees till spring, as it thereby attains a stronger body, and is by that means in a great measure divested of that sweet, luscious taste, peculiar to new made wine ; nay. if it is not wnnted for present consump- tion, it may without any damage, stand two years on the lees. When you draw off' the wine, bore a hole, an inch, at least, above the tap hole, a little to the side of it, that it may run clear off* the lees. The lees may either be distilled, which will yield a fine spirit, or filterrd through a proper cloth, and returned RECEIPT FOR MAKING CURRANT WINE. 85 again into the cask. Some put in spirit, but I think it not advisable. Do not suffer yourself to be prevailed on to add more than one third of juice, as above prescribed, in hopes that the wine may be richer, for that would render it infallibly hard and unpleasant ; nor yet a greater proportion of sugar, as it would certainly deprive it of its pure vinous taste. By this management you may have wine, letting it have a proper age, equal to Maderia, at least su- perior to most wines commonly imported, and for much less money. In regard to the quantity of wine intended to be made, take this example, remembering that twelve pounds of sugar are equal t > a gallon of liquid. For instance, suppose you intend to make thirty gallons only, then there must be, 8 gals, of juice, 16 of water, 24 gals, mixture, 6 gs. produc'd by sugar 24 gls. mixture. 3 multiplied by 12)72 lb. sugar, equni to 6 gals, of liquid 30 gallons. And so proportionably for any quantity you please to make. The common cider presses, if thoroughly clean, will do well in making larire quaniities : the small hand-screw press is most convenient for such as make less. N. B. — An extraordinary good spirit for medici- nal and other uses, may be distilled from currant juice, by adding a qunrt of molasses to a n-nl!on of juice, to give it a proper fermentation. ^ Note. — On some of the borders of a garden, the size of com mon country gardens, currants enough are gathered, to make, annually, 25 or 30 gallons. An acre well managed, would probably make at least 500 gallons. H 86 GRAPES CULTIVATED NEAR NEW YORK. Currant Wine, — Doctor Dyer, in the Spring of 1818, planted a currant vineyard of forty acres about a mile and a half from Providence, Rhode Island. — In 1821, he sent wine to the editor of the N. Y. National Advocate, and expressed confi dence that in a few years he should be able to make it produce two hundred pipes of wine per annum. It was principally sold at CharlestoHj S. C.J and in the West Indies. GRAPES CULTIVATED NEAR NEW-YORK. At the Fair of the Amer. Institute in New-York October, 1845, a great variety of fine grapes were exhibited. From the Report made by Thomas Bridgeman, Chairman of the Committee on Fruits and Flowers, I gather the following facts : From R. L. Pell, (M. Cunningham, Gardener,) six varieties of grapes, raised witJiont artificial keat,-'^^'^' Black Hamburgh, St. Peters, White Sweet Water, P^larne-colored Tokay, Isabella and Catawba. From Roswell Colt, Paterson, New Jersey, three varieties of house grapes, viz: Black Hamburgh, Black Damascus, and Royal Muscat; and four varieties raised iHlhout artificial heat, viz. Black Muscadine, Hamburgh, St. Peters, and White Muscadel. From Thomas Noyes, Stonington, Connecticut, three varieties of grapes, viz. Red Frontignac, Morocco, and Frontinel. In conclusion the Chairman observes — " Our list of Fruit, it may be observed, embraces a de-* scription of several of the best varieties of foreign grapes, also two varieties of the seedlings, raised DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE. 87 without the aid of artificial heat, which proves that our cUmate is capable of fully maturing this delicious and valuable fruit. Like France, Italy, and vSpain, we shall have our " vine-covered hills," and thus be rendered independent of other nations for a requisite supply of healthful and refreshing vines." •Flushing has long heen celebrated for its exten- sive Nurseries, and green-houses for the sale of trees, plants, flowers, and grape vines of every known description. The oldest establishment was that of the late William Prince, who is succeeded by his son vVilliam R. Prince, who now continues the business. The father and son are the authors of an excellent scientific and practical Treatise on the Vine, published in 1830. A great variety of yines, adapted to the ehmates of our country, are sold by Mr. Prince. Messrs. Yalk, in the same Village, have extensive grape-houses and green-houses, which are describ- ed as being very superior, and affording a model for others. Messrs. Parsons, Winter & Co., King and Rip- ley, and E. Higgins, are all extensively engaged in the Nursery business, and are probably all cul- tivators of grape vines for the market. These es- tablishments are an honor to the country. From the Vine Dresser's Manual, by Thiebaut de Berneaud. DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE, To Dry Raisins. — This excellent mode of pre- serving a delicious fruit, has been in use from time immemorial. The Grecians twisted the foot-stalk and left the bunch on the vine until it withered, 88 DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE. when it was gathered and dried in the shade. Raisins, with them, formed quite a branch of com- merce. The small town of Roquevaire, (Bouches-dn- Rhona) havmg gained an established reputation by its raisins, I shall give the receipe there practis- ed. The Calabrians prepare them well also, J^ut far less successtully than the inhabitants of Roque- vaire. In that small town they only dry white grapes. They select the largest, pulpiest kinds, with few stones, and thinly scattered on the bunch. These are culled dead-ripe. Every berry with the least speck nf rot upon it, is picked out and thrown away. A strong ley is then prepared from wood ashes, from 12 to 15° of strength for the salts of potash, ascertained by the seroraeter. When on the point of boiling over, the bunches are plunged in and drawn out as soon as the berries are wrinkl- ed. They are next put to drain ; after which they are spread on hurdles or reed mats, and kept in the sunshine from sunrise to sunset; during the night they are sheltered under awnings. Ten fair days are enough to dry them ; but if the weather is rainy it takes longer. Roquevaire raisins are considered excellent; they have a slighdy acidulous, agreeable taste, Calabrian raisins are blackish, which is a fault, but they are sweeter than those of Roquevaire. Span- ish raisins are finer flavoured than either, but are generally prepared with two much negligence; they do not keep as well, and are mixed with very small dry berries. The sort of Syrian raisins cal- ed Damascus, and which have a gilded hue, are highly prized for their exquisite flavor and proper- ty of keeping, without alteration, for two seasons. The C«rinth raisins and currants from Zante and DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINB. 89 Lipari, also enjoy great reputation ; those of Li- pari are often the worse for a little dirt or gravel ; but those of Zante are unexceptionable. They are small, rich, with the flavour of violets, and but a single seed. They are prepared from white and red grapes indiscriminately. Any family may prepaie its own raisins, from perfectly ripe, handsome grapes ; but before expos- ing them to the heat of the stove or sun, they should positively be bleached in the boiling ley. Many persons think boiling water sufficient ; it is not : and the alcali of the ley, which has a great effect on fruits at the North, renders the skin ten- der. As it does not penetrate into the fruit, it does not injure the acid, which is the charm of the dried grape, without which it is cloying and dull. Grape Syrtip or Sus^ar. — Parmentier has left us quite a complele treatise on this subject, which should he consulted by all desirious of m ikin^ th^ most of grape syrup. This liquor is made by taking from the vat, the must of dead-ripe white grapes ; if thesecannotbe had, the juice of black grapes expressed on pur- pose, and depriving it of its acids by mixing with it chalk, marble dust, gypsum or spent-ashes. If it is to be prepared as soon as expressed, it need not be sulphured ; but stumming is indispensable to prevent fermentation, if there is to be a delay of only four and twenty hours. It must be sulphured two or three times, and each time be poured out to cool very quickly in shallow trays or dishes.— This syrup does not always need clarifying ; if it should, white of eggs (in proportion to the quanti- ty) must be whisked in the liquid before it is boil- ed. This syrup is an excellent resource to th« farm-house. h2 90 DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE. In small vineyards, the wine of which is not very sugary, or when the grapes do not ripen as is desirable, this syrup, added to the vat, corrects that fault. When not boiled to so concentrated a strength, this syrup will, if put to ferment, make very pleasant cordial wines. In domestic economy, it is an advantageous sub- stitute for sugar ; fine sweetmeats are made with it ; the very best of marmalade, and very good brandy fruits, &c. Grape Cordial. — Take dead-ripe black grapes, pick them and bottle them ; the vessels only half filled witli the fruit, must then be filled with plain brand^r, corked, and stood in the sun for a fortnight.' After which they must be emptied into a new, high-glazed, clean tureen, and the fruit must be mashed with the hand. The whole is then to be squeezed through a thick cloth, which must be wetted beforehand with brandy. The liquor thus strained, is returned into the bottles, with the addi- tion of a little cinnamon and some peach-stones, cracked and thrown in, shells and all. The bot- tles are to be corked and stood in the sun another fortnight. The liquor must then be filtered through blotting paper ; and it is a delightful drink, very cordial and stomachic, and becomes the better the longer it is bottled. Marmalade. — With the must, various excellent marmalades are made ; that of Montpelier enjoys the highest name ; it is made from white grapes, boiled in the must to a clear jelly, and scented with citron and cedraty. The marmalade of L'Yonne and Loiret departments, though esteemed, is infe- rior to the former ; it is a little more tart and mix- ed with stone and seed fruits. The pears used for this purpose, are the Ores- DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE. 01 sane^ Bergamot, the Jargonelle^ the Virgoulcvse, the winter Bon Chretien^ the Riisscting, or other firm kinds. Quinces are thought the most suitable mixture in marmalades ; apples and plumbs come next ; and lastly pumpkins, the rinds of green man- goes and melons, and surgary roots, such as car- rots, parsnips, &c. These fruits must be selected very sound, cut small, and spread out on fair straw to mellow, before used. Table fruit is not fit for marmalade ; it is only fruit in an acerb state, that suit; that which falls before ripening, is put aside for this purpose. The fruit must be pared perfectly, and the seeds, stones, and hearts, cut out. In the i\orth and South both, two sorts of mar- malade are prepared, simple and compound. That made at the South, does not require as muchcook- ing as that at the North. It contains, all other things being equal, less water, tartar and extractive matter and more sugar. *' For the simple marmalade of the South, take 6 gallons of must ; one half must be put in a pre- serving pan over a qu'ck fire, and the other half be gradually added every time the liquid boils up; this boiling liquor must not be lost sight of for a moment, and the scummust be removed as fast as it rises ; and it must be strained hot through a thick cloth. It must then be put back on the fire, and constantly stirred with a wooden spnddle until it is boiled to a jelly; this is found by drop- ping a little on a dish, when, if it cools into a jelly, it has boiled sufficiently. '' As for the simple marmalade of the North,when the 6 gallons have been skimmed and are reduced by boiling to 4 gallons, the pan is taken from the fire and the liquid poured into stone pans, where it 92 DOMSSTIC USES OF THE VINE, is left for 48 hours in a cool place. At the end of that time the surface is covered with crystals of salt of tartar, which must be removed with great caution with a skiinmer ; the separation of this quantity diminishes the two marked acidity of the preserve, and increases its sweetness. This pro- cess is highly necessary in the North, and accord- ing to the season the tartar is in greater or less quan- tities ; but in the South, the presence of tartar is rather desirable to relieve the insipid sweetness of the sweetmeat, which is so great, that aromatics have to be used to give it a flavor. When skim- med of the tartar, the must is strained through a thin cloth, decanted and put back on the fire, where it must be stirred without ceasing. The must has become marmalade when it sets in a jelly, on be- ing stood to cool. Compound marmalade of the South. When the must has been boiled to one half and been suffi- ciently skimmed, it must be strained ; and the peeled and quartered fruits must be thrown into' the pan ; pour over them the liquor, which by the first boiling up, melts into the necessary fluidity for acting on the fruit, and softening it into a pulp ; stir constantly, until the boiled fruit is mashed and incorporated, and the whole syrup is one homo- geneous mass. Towards the last, the fire should be gradually moderated. To know when it is done, take about the size of a hazel-nut and drop it on a china dish; if it does not sink flat, and if no moisture escapes from it forming an areola around it, the jelly is done. If the fruit has, on account of the vintage ripening late, been previously stewed — before adding it; the must should have nearly reached its final consistence. For the compound marmalade of the North— DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE. 93 after the must has been thickened by boiling, and freed of its superabundant tartar, it is put back upon the fire with the fruits that are to be naixed with it, precisely regulating the whole in the way already mentioned for the compound marmalade of the South. But, as the fruit selected, is some- limes so acid that the preserve could not be used without the addition of some sweetening, a little grape syrup is added, while boiling ; the syrup of sweetmeats, or Southern marmalade. The house- keepers at the North, who have not at command these means, first clay the must, that is neutralize it with powdered chalk ; then boil it to a syrup, and afterwards add the fruit, and proceed with the reduction of the whole as before mentioned. An excellent marmalade is made from clayed must and pears in the proportion of ^00 or 120 pears to 4 gallons of bweet must, and 4 or 6 quinces ; it is sweet and mellow, with a slight tartness that heightens its fragrance and flavor. The Northern •marmalades are, on the whole, preferable to those of the South, in which the sugar and tartar are not in such relishing proportions. i he conserve must be covered in pots from the air, and stood in a dry place. When it candies, a little must may be added to it, or the pots be stood in boiling water for several hours and the jelly well stirred. Grape Butter. In place of adding fruits of vari- ous kinds to the boiling must, some only add a certain portion of must that has been evaporated and concentrated to thickness ; the whole boiled to the consistence of jelly, is a very agreeable and healthy addition to the table in fall and winter. — This preserve is poured into pots, with cinnamon and cloves, and put in the bread-oven to bake, before it is considered sufficiently prepared for 94 DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE. keeping. Before serving it on the table, it is slight- ly warmed and is eaten with buttered toast. Made Wines. — By made v/ine is understood a fermented table drink, obtained from a mixture of concentrated must, brandy, and some spices of aro- matic seeds. The preparation of these wines, be- longs to the housekeeper or her daughters. Pick the ripest, finest, and most sweet smelling grapes of the Malvosie and the Muscat kinds, at the hottest time of day, to avoid the least humidity. Lay them on hurdles and transport them with great caution to the spot in which they are to be exposed to the sun. Here they must be left five or six days ; turned three times a day, and sheltered at night. The sixth day they are to be crushed in the vat. Of the must thus obtained, only the upper part is taken out for this purpose, the lower not being con- , sidered so^xquisite and rich. This a-earn of the must is put in a copper boiler over a clear charcoal fire, or at least a fire without smoke, where it must boil until reduced to one third, being in the mean- time carefully skimmed It is then poured into new, or perfectly clean, wooden vessels, and when cold is transferred to casks and bunged tightly. The wine it makes, is of a pretty amber color, rich, delicate, and should be racked and bottled promptly. In some southern districts, as the liquid boils up, they throw in some anniseed and coriander ; cinna- mon ; six apricot stones, shells and all, six peach- pits the same, and after it has stood fort3r-eight hours, it is strained through a wet cloth. It is then put away in vessels, and stands the whole winter, when it is drawn ofFclear. strained through a jelly-bag and bottled. EXPLANATION OF TERMS. 95 EXPLANATION OF TERMS. Used in cultivation of Grapes and making of Wine. Battan, tlie bud of a vine before the lenf puts out. Bonnet, the scum or top of the Must, during fermen- tation. Bouquet, tlie fragrance or odour of wine. Body, the substantial vinous spirit. Dry Wine, acid wine, or astringent wine. Dicecious, a vine is dioecius when the stamens is on one vine, and the pistil on a separate vine. Espalier, trees or vines interwoven together. Generous Wine, a spirited wine. Hybrid, a mule — a vegetable production bv the mix- ture of different species. The seeds of hybrids will not propagate. Laterals, an offset from the root of the cluster, back of the stem. Light Wine, a wine of little spirit. Must, the crushed grapes before they are pressed. Marc, or Murk, the dry skins and seeds after press, ing. Sometimes called pumace. Polygamous, a vine is polygamous when it has the staminate and pistillate organs (sexual organs) on the same vines. Palisades, strong stakes pressed or set in the ground, or an enclosure. 96 EXPLANATION OF TERMS. Pricked Wines, are those commencing to be acid, or sour. tSpicr, a projection from the stock, cut down to one or two buds. Stumming^ is the burning in an empty cask strips of rag saturated with melted sulphur. Tendrils, claspers. which twine around a branch, and confine the vine. Vintage, the whole crop from the vineyard. Vintner, a manufacturer of wine. Vigneron, a, vine-dresser, one who prunes and culti* vates the vines. Viscous, glutinous, stickey, tenacious. ^ccrciCL ^< Xccc " ^^ c:<^<