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CRANO COIVII^ANDERY, 
 
 AND APPENDAI 
 
 OT^ THE ST.A.TE OI^ 
 
 uTo tl)e Kigljt (Eminent ©ranb Commanber, 
 
 (Dffuers anh Sir Knii 
 
 € ^ 3g $ t 
 
 // having come to my knowledge^ by petition duly signed\^directei 
 that Allegheny Gommandery, No. 35, Knights Templai-, mi^er oim.^ 
 the honor of the Orders of Knighthood., and aiding the cause of. 
 
 2 Ijcrebij (Svant i|pcvmi50ion?7?ito^.>szvtli^ 
 
 to appear in public in Full Temi^lar Unieobm, or FATiGU^'rJ 
 o-^TO ESCORT THE MEMBERS OF TM 
 
 and to leave this State for a blending of Knightly sentiments andjeMo^tt)^ 
 to present and make known to our Illustrious Frater, Right E)ni 
 of the State of Xew Yoi^k, and other Illustrious Compajiioji^SW 
 the friendly and Knightly regards and good intent of the Pennsylvania 
 ^Ttllvtllwl SyOi^ may forever exist betiveen us, -and that ^tviCt 4tlU 
 
 ^UU lUVtl)£r, our Sir Knights comprising said Command 
 Templar in your jurisdiction. 
 
 &W)t\\ UUbCV out \)(!i\\^^ as loitness our signature, and 
 
 attested by the signature of our Grand Recorder, in the City of Meadville, > 
 
 estubUslnnent of the order of Knighthood in Pennsylvania. 
 
 By order of 
 
INIICHTS TEMPLAR 
 
 )RDERS, 
 
 3sr3Nrs'S"aLiTr-.ftuisri-A.. 
 
 of tl)c (Bxaixb €ommaui^£i:2 of ^XTeu) Sork, 
 
 $ 
 
 'SI JR/Bd/MT EMINENT GRAND COMMANDER of this jurisdiction^ 
 ^UI'M-y/^mplate visiting your jurisdiction, and being desirous of promoting 
 
 Mp and pumauitg: 
 
 .Cmnmmider, Officers and Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
 mplar, as they may wish, on July 1,2, 3 & 4, A. 0. 780, A. D. 1878, 
 \o EUROPE TO NEW YORK CTTY,^-> — 
 ^/;e ~^:^nic//iis Templar of your jurisdiction, and with Knightly courtesy 
 ander of the Grand Commandery of the Knights Templar 
 >osing the Grand Commandery of the State of Neio York, 
 ^^^i'erhplar for your continued prosperity and well being, trusting that 
 ■ttittj may ever prevail throughout the world, in this (El^rlstian (^X^tX, 
 I, are hereby commended to your Knightly consideration, and to all Knights 
 
 e seal of the Grand Commandery of Knights Templar of Pennsylvania, and 
 \s 27th day of June, A. D. 1878, A. 0. 780. Being the 80th year of the 
 
 <3 Grand Commander. 
 
 rand Recorder. 
 
CRUSADING 
 
 Knights Templar, 
 
 UNDER THE BANNERS 
 
 Jvlffsffiii ®oiiiiiiii«3rr|, ^o. S5, 
 
 ALLEGHENY CITY, PA 
 
 DURING 1878. 
 
 r 
 
 BY DAVID ^V. SEMPLE, 
 
 
 PITTSBURGH: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY WM. P. BENNETT, 94 FIFTH AVENUE. 
 1879- 
 
COPYRIGHTED, ACCOUDING TO LAW, BV 
 
 DAVID W. SEMPLE and WILLIAM V. BENNETT, 
 
 IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS. 
 
 [the library I 
 
 I OF C ONGR ESS I 
 I WASHINGTON 
 
 0'^ 
 :^1 
 
Wo 
 
 THE "CRUSADERS" of 
 
 Aiiefgke'hir ^oMM^hde^^p-, Mo. SS, 
 
 
 ALLEGHENY CITY, PENNSYL VANIA, 
 
 THIS VOLUME IS 
 
 RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 
 
 -te^i 
 
.CONTENTS.. 
 
 -^^s^--- 
 
 LETTER OF CREDENCE, Frontispiece 
 
 PREFACE, 5 
 
 ORGANIZATION OF, AND PREPARATION 
 
 FOR, THE CRUSADE, 7 
 
 INTRODUCTION— 
 
 Introduction of Author and " Quartette." — The Pilgrims. 
 — Preparing to Leave. — The Excursion to New York. 29 
 
 TETTER NUMBER ONE— 
 
 The Pilgrims at Sea. — Celebration of Our Glorious Day 
 of Independence. — Notorious Interruption of Religious 
 Services. — A Truly Loving Couple. — Nine Days in a 
 World of Our Own 47 
 
 LETTER NUMBER TWO— 
 
 The Pilgrims Landed at Queenstown. — Their First Trouble 
 on Ireland's Green Sod. — Attempts at Smuggling. — 
 Reception in Cork. — In Trouble Again in a Barber 
 Shop. — A Row with a Hotel Proprietor. — Blarney Castle. 
 — Shandon Church. — Incidents by the Way, 72 
 
 LETTER NUMBER THREE— 
 
 The Pilgrims at Killaniey. — One of the Gems of Irish 
 Scenery.— Amusing Scenes in Genuine Irish Life. — A 
 Pleasant Ride through the Gap of Dunloe, and on the 
 Lakes. — Incidents by the Way, 105 
 
CONTKNTS. 
 
 LKITKR NUMBKR FOUR— 
 
 Killarney to lJul)lin. — Kui^^lus Teiiiplar transiiosed into 
 Knights of Submission. — Full Account of the Imjires- 
 sive Ceremonies of Initiation, as well as the (irand 
 Ennobling Principles of the Order. — In Dublin. — Inci- 
 dents by the Way, 139 
 
 i,i:tter number five— 
 
 Dublin to Enniskillen. — Londonderry. — The Giant's 
 Causeway, and Belfast. — Riding on an Irish Locomo- 
 tive. — A Grand Day spent with a Glorious People. — 
 A Gala Day with True Friends, and the Ladies of 
 Enniskillen.--lncidents by the Way, 166 
 
 LETTER NUMBER SIX— 
 
 Up the River Clyde. — In and Around (Glasgow. — The 
 Grand Reception by St. Mungo Encampment, and others. 
 — Purchase of a Clothing House. — Trouble \\ ith Gents' 
 Furnishing Goods. — A Day spent with Friends. — Se]3- 
 aration ot " Carlisle " from the remainder of the 
 "Quartette." — Arrival in Edinburgh.. — Incidents by the 
 Way, .... 1 207 
 
 LETTER NUMBER SIX— Continued— 
 
 Edinburgh. — Presentation of Bills to the Trio of the 
 " Quartette." — Reception and Banquet by the Provin- 
 cial Grand Lodge. — Melrose and Abboltsford. — Re- 
 cherche Banqiret at Leeds. — To London. — The Doctor 
 and " Carlisle,'" now Two Poor and Weary Pilgrims, 
 Traveling Alone. — Incidents by the Way, 238 
 
 LETTER NUMBER SEVEN— 
 
 A Saturday Night's Ride to Paris. — The Two Pilgrims 
 in Paris. — Meeting of Friends in Cologne. — Accident 
 on the Rhine. — Bingen. — Mayence. — Heidleberg. — 
 Bale. — Lake Lucerne. — Brunig Pass and Brienz Valley. 
 — Interlakcn. — Berne. — INIarligny to Chamouny. — Over 
 the 'left' Xoirc. — Geneva. — To London. — Incidents by 
 Way, 263 
 
CONTKXTS. 
 
 I.KTTER NUMlSEll EIGHT— 
 
 London and its Siy;hts. — The Unfortunate Loss of a Watch. 
 — Pilgrims Turn their weary feet Homewards. — " Car- 
 lisle " and the Doctor badly used up on the Homeward 
 Voyage. — -Particularly "Carlisle." — Arrival Home. — 
 Incidents by the Way, 314 
 
 LETTER NUMBER NINE— 
 
 E.xtracts from Letter Written by the Captain-tieneral, 
 W. C. INIoreland, Esc[., while doing the Italian Section, 
 with part of the Crusaders. — Description of Scenery 
 and Art, 341 
 
 CONCLUSION, 349 
 
 IN MEMORIAM, 367 
 
<s^Pi^e'f^^e\%^ 
 
 PERHAPS in no country, where the rites and ceremonies of that 
 ancient and honorable institution known to the world as 
 Freemasonry are observed, is there any society, whether public 
 or secret, which carries upon her banners a higher prestige or a more 
 honorable name, than does the Commandery of Knights Templar sta- 
 tioned in Allegheny City, Pa., known as Allegheny Commandery, 
 No. 35. 
 
 From the outer world, as well as within the broad fold of Tem- 
 plarism, come most gratifying words of commendation as to her com- 
 position, her character, and her tacit following of the signs she bears 
 upon her banners and upon her arms. 
 
 Knowing full well the trust graciously bestowed would be care- 
 fully guarded and preserved, permission of the Grand Commandery of 
 our grand Old Keystone State was granted to Allegheny Commandery 
 to pay a fraternal visit to fraters of our mother country, and we trust 
 egotism may not be laid at our door, when we make the, assertion that 
 the Grand Cominandery can have no regret at the confidence reposed, 
 and No. 35 of her subordinate Commanderies, has yet, for the first 
 time, either at home or abroad, to bring to her fair name a single 
 tinge of color or shame. 
 
 Though a series of correspondence has followed the " Second 
 European Crusade of Allegheny Commandery," that could but be 
 done in a condensed form and limited manner, and that the Second 
 Pilgrimage may be more conveniently followed, we endeavor to place 
 before our readers in these pages, as accurate an account as possible 
 
of the Crusade, and laying aside the dull, monotonous method usually 
 pursued in " Travels Abroad," we prefer giving the actual daily occur- 
 rances met with by us all, rather than the prosy and wearisome des- 
 criptions of Castles, centuries old ; and ivy-covered stones, said to be 
 started 2000 years B. C, and which have been written up and described 
 limes without nunil^er and without end. 
 
 If we can in your hands spend an hour pleasantly with you, and if 
 we can take you with us from city to city, and country to countr}', our 
 aim is accomplished, and that we may endeavor to do so in a manner 
 more simple than a continuous chapter of incidents, we care rather to 
 talk with our reader m the shape of correspondence. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 

 I^HE first " Crusade " by any Masonic body in mod- 
 ern days, was made during 1871, by Allegheny 
 CoMMANDERY, Knights Templar, wlien fort3^-one Sir 
 Kniglits left friends and liome, not on a crusade of warfare 
 against the blindness and superstitions of any clan or re- 
 ligious sect ; not upon the test of steel against steel, valoi" 
 against valor, arm against arm ; but upon the most sub- 
 lime pilgrimage man can ever undertake, that of carrying 
 " Peace and Good Will to Man," of laying aside the 
 sword ; and the fraters of the New World grasping with 
 " fraternal good will and brotherly love," the hands of 
 the fraters of the Old. 
 
 As those forty-one Sir Knights bade adieu to Alle- 
 gheny Citj^ ; as thej^ steamed down the bay towards the 
 broad Atlantic ; as they reached the farther shore, and 
 Great Britain's Templars received, with open arms, those 
 of America, how the world looked on ! And truly, never 
 
S Cktsadi-; to EuRori': 
 
 was a better example given to the gaze of tlie eager eyes 
 which watched, than of man meeting man, friend meeting- 
 friend, brotlier meeting })rotherwith hand fnll of welcome 
 in its fraternal grasp, and heart full of love in its every 
 pulsation. 
 
 With each succeeding year was the Commandery in- 
 vited and importuned to pay a second visit to Europe, 
 and accordingly a resolution was offered that Allegheny 
 Commander}^ make a Second PJuropean Pilgrimage, which 
 was unanimousl}^ passed, and arrangements were at once 
 commenced that placed the matter in definite shape to 
 carry out this resolution. A committee being dul}'- ap- 
 pointed and negotiations at once entered into with E. M. 
 Jenkins, Esq., a member of Allegheny- Commandery, by 
 the way, and a person widel}^ and favorably known to 
 the traveling public of the United States, in fact of the 
 world. 
 
 That the Committee labored industriously at their 
 work, is shown more full^^ in the following circular, issued 
 sixty days after the offering of the resolution in the Com- 
 mandery : 
 
OK Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 Geo. C. Johnstone, Re 
 
 A Uegh eny Com ni a. n dery, 
 
 No. 35, 
 KNIGHTS TEMPLAR. 
 
 OFFICE OF THE RECORDER, 
 
 Allegheny, Pa., August 20th, iSyj. 
 
 Dear Sir Knight : 
 
 This Commandery, which made a highly 
 
 successful tour during the Summer of 1 871, propose, at the earnest 
 
 solicitation of a number of prominent Sir Knights, to make, during 
 
 1878, a 
 
 SECOND PILGRIMAGE TO EUROPE. 
 
 To that end a resolution was offered and inianimously adopted at 
 the June conclave, and for the purpose of making all necessary arrange- 
 ments, a Committee consisting of the following Sir Knights was ap- 
 pointed, viz : 
 
 Sirs B. F. Horner, 
 
 P. Em. C. William H. Slack, 
 Edward Coates, 
 P. Em. C. Joseph H. Elton, and 
 ^ Geo. C. Johnstone. 
 
 The Committee have been occupied in the performance of this 
 duty, for several weeks past. They have consulted the wishes of those 
 who have already decided to accompany the Commandery, among 
 them several who made the first pilgrimage in 1871. They have been 
 in written and personal communication with Sir E. M. Jenkins, a mem- 
 ber of the Commandery, but now a resident of New York, whose ex- 
 perience and judgment will be recognized, and as a result announce 
 the following: 
 
 The Commandery will take its departure from New York the last 
 week in June or the first week in July, 1878, — the exact date to be 
 hereafter announced. One of the best steamers of a first class line,- 
 probably a Cunarder, will be selected for their accommodation. The 
 Commandery w ill land at Queenstown, the following being the adopted 
 
Crusade to Euroi'k 
 
 ROUTE: 
 
 ( hieen.siown to Cork; Blarney Castle ; Mallow; Killarney; Gap 
 of Dunloe; Lakes of Killarney; Dublin; Drogheda; Dundalk; En- 
 niskillen, Londonderry; Port Rush; Giant's Causeway; Belfast; Glas- 
 gow; Loch Lomond; Loch Kathrine; Frossachs; Stirling; Edinburgh 
 Melrose; Abbottsford ; Carlisle; Leeds; Sheffield; Liecester; Bedford 
 London; Flushing; Antwerp; Brussells; Rotterdam; Amsterdam 
 Utrecht; Cologne; the Rhine, by day steamer; Wiesbaden; Frank- 
 fort-oii-the-Main; Darmstadt; Heidleburg ; Baden-Baden; Stras- 
 burg ; the Black Forest ; Schaff-hausen ; Zurich ; Lucerne ; the 
 Rhigi ; Lake Lucerne ; Alpnacht ; Brunig Pass ; Brientz ; Giesbach ; 
 Illuminated Waterfall; Literlacken; Berne; Lausanne; Lake Leman ; 
 Bouveret; Martigny ; TeteNoir; Chamouix ; Geneva; Macon; Di- 
 jon; Fontainbleau ; Paris; Rouen; Dieppe; Newhaven ; Brighton; 
 London; Oxford; Warwick; Stratford-on-Avon, Chester; Liverpool; 
 New York. Time occupied about seventy-five days, allowing a week 
 each in London and Paris, and an amply sufficient time at each other 
 place. 
 
 THE ENTIRE COST WILL BE $300,00 GOLD, EACH. 
 
 This will include Ocean Passage, Rail Road, Steamboat and Dil- 
 igence Travel, Hotel Accommodation at each city, — all first class. It 
 will also include Omnibuses for transfer between Hotel and Rail 
 Road Stations; Jaunting Cars to Blarney Castle and Giant's Cause- 
 way ; Boats and Ponies at Killarney ; Wagonettes at Melrose for Ab- 
 bottsford. Meals and accommodations to be in accordance with the 
 custom of each country visited, viz. : In Ireland, Scotland and Eng- 
 land, Meat Breakfast, Table D'Hote Dinner, Bedroom, Lights and 
 Attendance. One hundred pounds baggage allowed free in Great 
 Britain and Ireland ; sixty-six pounds on the Continent. Porterage 
 is also included, and the service of a competent Conductor, who will 
 accompany the party all through the tour, who will act as Guide and 
 Interpreter, and also as Superintendent of Traveling Arrangements, 
 and who will pay all bills for sight seeing, who Vvill assist in the for- 
 mation of small Carriage Parties, and engage such local guides at 
 points needed, as the memljers of the party may wish, the expense of 
 which will be borne Ly those requiring them, as the sum quoted does 
 not include carriage hire, or fees for sight seeing, and such small ex- 
 penses as cannot be coiitrolled by the conductor. 
 
OF Allegheny Commanufry. 
 
 Some of the members of the Commandery desire to have the com- 
 pany of ladies. It is therefore determined that those who wish may 
 be accompanied by their wives. The accommodation on the Steamers 
 selected will be outside rooms, three j^ersons in each room ; or hiside 
 rooms, two persons in each room. An Outside room can be given to 
 two persons, u] on payment of ^36.00 in gold, each, which will in- 
 clude ocean passage both ways. 
 
 A contract with E. M. Jenkins has been made to the above effect. 
 It is expected that Sir Knight Jenkins will accompany the Command- 
 ery, and take charge of the traveling arrangements. 
 
 The Committee, in determining the above route, have been gov- 
 erned to some extent by the experiences obtained on ihejirst pilgrim- 
 age of Allegheny Commandery in 1871. They have stricken from the 
 programme all the unnecessary features of the former pilgrimage, while 
 retaining those the most pleasant. Having a vivid recollection of the 
 heat, dust and fleas of Italy, they have determined to omit that country 
 this year, though a route will be laid out and a plan arranged for 
 those who desire to take it. The route, as adopted, though very sim- 
 ilar to that taken in 1871, is still quite different. 
 
 The Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania have already granted 
 permission to Allegheny Commandery to make this Second Pilgrimage, 
 and previous to their departure will issue a Letter of Credence, as the 
 following extract from the minutes of said Grand Commandery attest : 
 
 Whereas, In the year 1870, this Grand Commandery granted 
 permission to Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, to travel abroad and 
 visit Commanderies in Europe, and a Letter of Credence was issued 
 for that purpose by the Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania ; the Sir 
 Knights were received with credit, honor, and great distinction through- 
 out Great Britain or wherever this Letter of Credence was presented. 
 It is well known that the Pilgrims from America conducted themselves 
 while abroad with honor and dignity, which reflected credit upon 
 Templar Masonry in America : Therefore, 
 
 Resolved, That this Grand Commandery grant permission to Alle- 
 gheny Commandery, No. 35, to make a Second Crusade to Europe, 
 for the purpose of visiting the Exposition in Paris, next year, and to 
 visit Commanderies in Great Britain, and that a Letter of Credence be 
 issued similar to the one issued in 1870. 
 
 While the Commandery will keep its organization intact, during 
 its absence, still it is not the intention of the Eminent Commander to 
 
Crusade to Euroi'k 
 
 make "hard and fast" rules, which will interfere with the pleasure of 
 the members. Certain proper orders will be issued for the govern- 
 ment of those participating, which it is believed will be ol>served with- 
 out inconvenience to anyone, the principal being to remind each mem- 
 ber lie is a Knight Templar, and a Member of Allegheny Cominandery. 
 Should any fail to remember this, he will have refunded to him the 
 balance of his unexpended fare, less lo per cent., and told to depart 
 in peace. 
 
 While the oljjecl of this pilgrimage is pleasure, sight-seeing and 
 rela.xation from business, still the Commandery expects to meet many 
 of its fraters, some of whom they had the gratification of meeting in 
 187 1, and they hope to be prepai^ed to return some of the compliments 
 received during that year. 
 
 Each Sir Knight will be required to provide himself with the uni- 
 form and Complete e(|uipmcnts known as " Crusader's Uniform," 
 Allegheny Commandery ; particulars can be obtained by addressing the 
 Recorder. 
 
 A limited number of Knights Templar from other Commanderies, 
 accompanied, if they visit, by their wives, will be cordially and heart- 
 ily welcomed to join this pilgrimage. The names of such Sir Knights 
 will be duly presented to Allegheny Commandery, for Honorary 
 Membership. Vou are invited to make one of the number. 
 
 It is expected that those who decide to go will pay lo Sir Hon. 
 Alfred Slack, Treasurer of Allegheny Commandery, a deposit of 
 One Hundred Dollars, previous to January ist, 1878, the money thus 
 deposited being used to secure steamship accommodations. This de- 
 posit is not necessarily to be forfeited, in case of withdrawal, as no diffi- 
 culty is apprehended in finding a suljstitute. The balance of the 
 amount due will be required to be paid thirty days before departure. 
 Any further information desired will be given by addressing the under- 
 signed. 
 
 GEORGE C. JOHNSTONE, 
 
 Recordei-. 
 
 The above circular being mailed to a number of Sir 
 Knights, members of a limited number of Commanderies, 
 necessarily resulted in quite a heavy work in the line of 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 correspondence; and right here we may l)e permitted to 
 add, by wa}^ of parenthesis, not only as an individual 
 member of Allegheny Commandery, but on behalf of that 
 body as a whole, that we take it as an opportune moment 
 to congratulate Allegheny Commandery upon her selec- 
 tion of a Sir Knight to fill one of her most responsible 
 positions, requiring judgment, care and prudence, that 
 of Recorder, so efficiently and ably filled by Sir Knight 
 Geo. C. Johnstone, a worthy gentleman, a capable officer, 
 and an honorable Knight of the Temple. 
 
 Some little conception may be formed of the work 
 necessary to be performed, incidental to moving a Com- 
 mandery on such a pilgrimage, when we name but a few 
 of the cities from which were received letters of inquiry 
 in answer to the foregoing circular, and the amount of 
 correspondence occurring in replying to all sorts of ques- 
 tions made concerning the tour. 
 
 Letters came from Rochester, Elmira, Ithica, Syra- 
 cuse, Albany'- and New York City, N. Y. ; Lancaster, 
 Emilie, Philadelphia, Coatesville, Shippensburg, Sharon, 
 Altoona, Greensburg, Bellefonte, Columbia, Harrisburg, 
 Scranton, Williamsport, and Clearfield, Pa. ; Yersailles, 
 Richmond, Paris, Cjnithia, Ky. ; Winooski, Burlington, 
 Yt. ; Cincinnati, Canton, Cleveland, Chillicothe, Hamil- 
 ton, Dayton, 0. ; Staunton, Wheeling, Halltown, W. Ya. ; 
 Davenport, Dubuque, Keokuk, Burlington, Muscatine, 
 Iowa; Dover, Del.; Rock Island, Chicago, Ills.; West 
 Joplin, St. Joseph, St. Louis, Mo. ; Elkhart, Logansport, 
 
14 Crusadk id Kuroi'e 
 
 Evansville, South Bend, Ind. ; Black Hawk, Denver, Col. ; 
 Georgetown, Washington, D. C. ; Kansas Citj', Kan. ; 
 Little Rock, Ark. ; San Francisco, Cal. ; Savannah, Ga. ; 
 etc., etc. Of course from so many varied sources, as to 
 any business house, the letters seeking information Avould 
 be concise, '' boiled down " and to the point ; while others 
 would begin witli their " sit me down with pen in hand, 
 etc.," giving the pedigree of themselves, " their sisters, 
 their cousins, and their aunts," and man}' were quite a 
 fund of amusement. 
 
 One letter from a very nice, rather aged gentleman, 
 (now deceased, poor fellow !) contained an obituary no- 
 tice of his wife, written by himself, her age at death, etc.; 
 as well as a complete histor}^ of himself, his age, his 
 height, his weight, how man^^ children, their ages, sexes 
 and general physical make up. 
 
 However the requisite number was speedily attained 
 to make the pilgrimage, and the following supplementary- 
 circular was issued : 
 
 SECOND PILGRIMAGE TO EUROPE. 
 
 The Eminent Commander desires to give the Sir Knights 
 fur'j'her information on the subject: 
 
 Since the issue of the Circular from the Recorder's Office, under 
 date of August 20, 1877, so many appHcations have been received for 
 permission to join, both by our own membership and those of other 
 jurisdictions, that the Second Pilgrimage is now a fixed fact. 
 
 The following arrangements have now been completed : The 
 Commandery will leave Pittsburgh on Monday Evening, July 1st, next, 
 for New York, and will sail by a Cunard Steamer, on Wednesday, July 
 3d, landing at Queenstown in Ireland. The Route in Europe is as 
 follows : 
 
OK Allegheny Commander v. 15 
 
 ROUTE: 
 
 Queenstown to Cork ; Blaniejj Castle ; Mallow; Killarney; Gap 
 of Dunloe; Lakes of Killarney; Dublin; Drogheda; Dundalk; En- 
 niskillen; Londonderry; Port Rush; Giant's Causeway; Belfast; Glas- 
 gow; Loch Lomond; Loch Kathrine; Trossachs, Stirling; Edinburgh 
 Melrose; Abbottsford; Carlisle; Leeds; Sheffield; Liecester; Bedford 
 London, Flushing; Antwerp; Brussells; Rotterdam; Amsterdam 
 Utrecht; Cologne; the Rhine by day Steamer; Wiesbaden; Frank- 
 fort-on-the-Main; Darmstadt; Heidelberg; Baden-Baden; Strasburg; 
 the Black Forest; Schaff-hausen; Zurich; Lucerne; the Rhigi; Lake 
 Lucerne; Alpnacht; the Brunig Pass; Brientz; Giesbach; Illumi- 
 ated Waterfalls; Interlacken; Berne; Lausanne; Lake Leman; 
 Bouveret; Martigny; Tete Noir ; Chamouix; Geneva; Macon; Dijon; 
 Fontainbleau ; Paris; Rouen; Dieppe; Newhaven; Brighton; Lon- 
 don; Oxford; Warwick; Slratford-on-Avon ; Chester; Liverpool; 
 New York. Time occupied, about seventy-five days, allowing a week 
 each in London ai\d Paris, and an amply sufficient time at each other 
 place. The return will be made in a Cunard Steamer; the Steamship 
 Tickets will be good to return for a year. 
 
 Those who wish to extend their tour to Italy, will be permitted to 
 do so, and the following additional arrangements have been made 
 with Sir Knight E. M. Jenkins : To leave main party at Geneva; to 
 be supplied with a conductor, (if there be ten in the party,) and go via 
 Mount Cenis Tunnel to Turin; Milan; Verona; Venice; Padua; Bou- 
 logne; Florence; Rome; Naples; Vesuvius; Pompeii; Pisa; Genoa; 
 Turin; and back to Paris, London, Liverpool and New York. To oc- 
 cupy three weeks longer, and to cost ^140, in gold, more, which in- 
 cludes all hotel expenses, gondolas in Venice, carriages for three days' 
 sight-seeing in Rome, with Companion Shakspei-e Wood for guide, 
 carriages and ponies for Pompeii and Vesuvius. 
 
 The accommodations on board the Steamships, at Hotels, and on 
 the Railroads, are first class in every particular. The Rooms on the 
 Ocean Steamers are to be occupied by three persons; but smaller 
 rooms for two persons may be obtained at no increased expense. 
 Should two persons wish to occupy a large outside room, the additional 
 charge will be ^36 in gold, each, for the journey both ways. The 
 Steamship accommodations must be secured by the middle of Febru- 
 ary, and it is intended to engage and pay for twenty rooms, by that 
 
i6 Crusadk to Ei'Roi'i; 
 
 time; hence it is important that those who intend participating in this 
 pilgrimage, pay at once to the Treasurer of Allegheny Commandery, 
 Sir Alfred Slack, the advance payment necessary to secure these rooms. 
 The balance of the amount can be arranged by the 1st of June, in a 
 
 manner to be announced. 
 
 The Pilgrimage Party w ill be limited to the number necessaiy to 
 fdl twenty rooms, which in no case will exceed tifty, and may fall 
 below that number. 
 
 By order of Em. Commander, 
 
 B. F. HORNER, 
 Geo. C. Johnstone, W. H. SLACK, 
 
 Recorder. EDWARD COATES, 
 
 JOS. H. ELTON, 
 JOHN HEATH, 
 GEO. C. JOHNSTONE, 
 • Conmiittee. 
 
 Final arrangements for the Crusade, so far as the 
 other side of the ocean was concerned, being tliiis com- 
 pleted, the following letters were received, showing our 
 fraters across the Atlantic were anticipating our visit: 
 
 Enniskillen, Ireland, March 7, 187S. 
 
 Dear Sir and Brother : 
 
 Kindly drop me a line by return mail, saying what 
 day the Allegheny Commandery will positively leave New Vork and 
 reach Enniskillen. If you have a dated itinerary to spare, I would be 
 glad to have it. ■'•" - '•'' * Hoping to meet you all 
 
 well and hearty on your arrival. 
 
 Fraternally and faithfully yours, 
 
 O. TERNAN. 
 Geo. C. J0HN.STONE, Esq., 
 
 Allei^heuy City, Pa. 
 
OK Alt,f.ghf.ny Commandery. 17 
 
 LEiais, England, March 26th, 1878. 
 Dear Sir Knigh' : 
 
 I have heard through E. M. Jenkins' agents here, 
 that your Commandery purpose to pay Leeds a visit this summer, and 
 as you would not object, perhaps, to meeting your brethren on this side 
 the water, I have written to our E. C. to-day, informing him, and no 
 doulot he will call a meeting to see what we can do; our numbers are 
 only small, but I doubt not we shall be able to give you an English 
 welcome. With fraternal regards to yourself and the other Sir Knights, 
 
 believe me, 
 
 Fraternally yours, 
 
 t W. J. BECK, P. E. P. 
 Sir Geo. C. Johnstone, 
 
 Allegheny City, Pa. 
 
 In the meantime the efficient Committee, in whose 
 hands were the arrangements, had been perfecting and 
 completing the same, so that on June 1st, 18Y8, their 
 arduous and well managed labors were ended, the books 
 being closed with thirty-eight persons forming the part}^ 
 
 The following kind letter was tlien duly received 
 from a Commandery whose " fame has spread both far 
 and wide," and from gentlemen of whom it is entireh^ 
 worthy, and of whom we shall have occasion to spealv 
 later on. The words contained therein speak kindly and 
 directly as though coming from the heart sincerel}'^ : 
 
 HEADQUARTERS 
 
 Palestine Commandery, 
 
 nnic Te,,, No. 18, K. T. 
 
 ijtii Ave. & 23(1 St, New York, Jime 8th, 1878. 
 
 To the Eminent Commander, Officers and Sir Knights of Allegheny 
 Commandery, No. 35, K. T., Stationed at Allegheny City, Pa.: 
 
i8 Crusade to Kuroi-e 
 
 Dear Fralcrs : 
 
 We are well aware thai you are lo make a Tilgrini- 
 age to Europe, leaving this port on July 3d, next, and wisiiing you to 
 leave these shores in the most pleasant manner, we therefore, as a 
 Commandery, should like to meet you on your arrival in our city, on 
 Tuesday, July 2d, and escort you to your hotel. 
 
 Palestine, No. 18, desires to become Ijelter acijuainted with the 
 Sir Knights of Allegheny, No. 35, and we trust this may be the means 
 of so doing it. 
 
 Trusting that you will accept of our escort, and if you will give us 
 full particulars as to the time of your arrival here, we will make all 
 proper arrangements for receiving you. 
 
 We remain, 
 
 Courteously and fraternally yours, 
 
 ATTEST, t GEORGE W^ SKELLEN, 
 
 J.\MES A. Rich, Em. Commander. 
 
 Recorder. 
 
 This hearty and kind invitation, coming as it did. 
 so manifestly an evidence of fraternal good -will and 
 esteem, was unanimonsl}' accepted on the part of Alle- 
 gheny, No. 35, by means of the following letter : 
 
 Allegheny Commandery, 
 
 No. 30, K. T. 
 
 Allegheny City, Pa., June 12, 1878. 
 
 To the Eminent Commander, Officers and .Sir Knights of Palestine 
 Commandery, No. 18, K. T., Stationed at Ne\\- York, Greeting: 
 
 Dear Fraiers : 
 
 Your official communication has been duly received. 
 Knowing well the reputation the Sir Knights of Palestine Commandery, 
 No. 18, have ever enjoyed of being "Good Sir Knights, and True," 
 those compos. ng the membership of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
 will deem it one of the most pleasant features of their Second Pilgrim- 
 age to Euroi^e, to meet and greet, personally, the members of your 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 19 
 
 Commandery, and as you have to this end so kindly intimated, we 
 cheerfully accept the tender of your Commandery as escort on our 
 arrival in New York. 
 
 We leave Pittsburgh on Monday evening, July ist, at 6 P. M. 
 
 via Pennsylvania Rail Road, arriving at Jersey City about 7:15 A. M. 
 
 July 2d. 
 
 We remain ever, 
 
 Courteously and fraternally yours, 
 
 ATTEST, LEE S. SMITH, 
 
 Geo. C. Johnstone, Em. Commmider. 
 
 Recorder. 
 
 And the following answer was received : 
 
 HEADQUARTERS 
 
 Palestine CommsLiidery, 
 
 . 7, No. 1-8, K. T. 
 
 Gth Ave. & 23d St.^ ^^^ Y^^^'^' J""^ 2°' ^^78. 
 
 Geo. C. Johnstone, 
 
 Recorder Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, K. T. 
 Dear Sir Knight : 
 
 Your courteous letter of 12th inst., accepting our escort, 
 was duly received. We have also received your circular giving partic- 
 ulars of route, etc., and we will therefore arrange our plans accordingly 
 for the 2d proximo. 
 
 Please state the exact time you will leave your headquarters, the 
 Grand Central Hotel, on July 3d, to go on. board the S. S. "Russia." 
 Your reply by Monday morning next, will greatly facilitate our orders 
 and plans. 
 
 Yours, fraternally and courteously, 
 
 JAMES A. RICH, 
 
 Recorder. 
 
 The following orders were then issued from the Com- 
 mandery, in accordance with all previously arranged 
 plans : 
 
Crusadk to Europe 
 
 }IEADIJUART1CKS 
 
 Allegheny Commandery, 
 
 No. 35, K. T. 
 
 Masonic IIai.l, Allegheny City, Pa., June, 15, 1878. 
 
 SPECIAL ORDER No. i. 
 
 I. In accordance with Resolution of the Commandery, the Re- 
 port of Committee of Arrangements for Excursion to New York, will 
 accompany this order. 
 
 IL The members of Allegheny Commandery, as well as those 
 of Pittsburgh No. i, Tancred No. 48, and all others who desire to 
 participate in escort, will assemble at Asylum, at 4 P. M., sharp, on 
 Monday, July 1st, in full Templar uniform. It will be necessary to 
 complete formation and assign Sir Knights to their positions before 
 leaving the Asylum. 
 
 III. On arrival in New York the Command \\\\\ lie received by 
 Palestine Commandery No. iS, stationed in New "\'ork, and escorted 
 to hotel. 
 
 lY. After escorting the Crusaders to steamer in New York, July 
 3d, the escort will return to hotel where it will be disbanded. It will 
 be necessary for Sir Knights to take with them a full suit of citizen's 
 clothing. 
 
 Y. Sir Knights who cannot accompany escort to New York 
 and desire participating in parade before starting can do so ; their 
 I'^ggage will be taken to depot, that they may change their dress 
 there. 
 
 YI. Hand will report at depot at 5:00 P. M. sharp, to Captain- 
 General of Commandery. 
 
 By order of LEE S. SMITH, 
 ATTEST, Em. CoDuiiander. 
 
 Geo. C. Johnstone, EDWARD COATES, 
 Recorder. Capt.- General. 
 
C)F Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 A Uegh eny Com m an dery, 
 
 ]S"o. 35, K:. 'V. 
 
 Masonic ?Iall, Allegheny City, Pa., 
 Sir Knight : June, 1878. 
 
 At the stated conclave of the Commandery, held April 
 26th, it was resolved that the Commandery go to New York, as escort 
 to Members of this and other Commanderies who accompany Allegheny 
 Commandery on its Second Pilgrimage to Europe in July next. 
 
 The Committee of Arrangements for the Excursion, issued the 
 following Information, viz : * 
 
 The Commandery will go via P. R. R., on special train, leaving 
 Union Depot at 6 P. M., Monday, July ist. Baggage will be taken 
 from Masonic Hall, Allegheny, and Library Hall, Pittsburgh, to depot, 
 (free of charge,) by kindness of Sir John W. Haney, of Pittsburgh 
 Commandery, No. i. 
 
 Members of Pittsburgh, No. i, Tancred, No. 48, and all visiting 
 Sir Knights, are courteously invited to join with us on this occasion. 
 
 Eare to Neiu York and Heturn, $12.^0, 
 
 Tickets good for 15 days. Any Sir Knight wishing to remain longer 
 can have his ticket endorsed by Thomas E. Watt, Esq., who will ac- 
 company Commandery to New York. 
 
 Tickets for European party good until return. Quarters have 
 been secm-ed at Grand Central Hotel, New York, at $2.50 per day. 
 
 Sleeping-car rates as usual. In order that sufficient accommoda- 
 tion may be provided, those intending to participate and desiring 
 sleeping-car berths, will notify Sir William H. Bown, Chairman Com- 
 mittee, No. 136 Wood Street, immediately, and by paying him they 
 will be secured. 
 
 Tickets will be sold to friends of Sir Knights desiring to go to 
 New York on this train. 
 
 Tickets may be had at Union Depot, of Thomas E. Watt, Gen- 
 eral Ticket Office, corner Fifth Avenue and Smithfield Street ; also at 
 the Asylum, at regular Conclave, June 28. 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 In order to arrange for special train, it will he necessary to know 
 soon how many are going. You will please notify George C. John- 
 stone, Recorder, No. II Boyle Street, Allegheny, immediately. Lunch 
 will be provided on train. 
 
 WILLIAM H. BOWN, 
 GEO. W. SPENCER, 
 THOMAS M. WHITE, 
 
 Coiiunittee. 
 
 All tinangemc'iits on the part of the Coramandeiy for 
 the Crusade being complete, we awaited the receipt of 
 our " Lettei-s of Credence " from the Grand Commandery 
 of Pennsylvania, as well as permission from that body, 
 and the Grand Commandery of the State of New Jersey, 
 to pass through the two named States as a bod}^ of 
 Knights Templar, which came duly to hand, to-wit: 
 
 Letter of Credence. 
 
 AiiefgiiefhlT ^chihi^hde^ir, Mo. ;3S, 
 
 Masonic Knights Templar, Allegheny, U. S. ok A. 
 
 1878. 
 
 To the Most Eminent and Supreme Grand Master : 
 
 The Grand and Subordinate Officers and Sir Knights 
 of all Encampments, Preceptories and Priories of the Royal, Exalted, 
 Religious, and Military Order of Masonic Knights Templar, in Eng- 
 land and Wales, and Jurisdiction thereunto belonging; as well as to 
 those of Scotland, Ireland, and in whatever country wherein the symbol 
 of the Cross has been displayed upon the banners of Templarism, to 
 advance the moral, intellectual, and religious knowledge of our Chris- 
 tian order, 
 
 PEACE, UNITY, AND FRATERNAL LOVE. 
 
 Be it known. That Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, of the 
 City of Allegheny, Pennsylvania, deriving a charter from the Grand 
 Commandery of Knights Templar, of the State of Pennsylvania — 
 
0.F Al.T.EGHKNY COMMANDERY. 23 
 
 in their associate capacity as a Subordinate Commandery, having 
 made all the necessary arrangements for an excursion through Europe, 
 and to visit all Encampments, Preceptories, and Priories, on their 
 designated route — it is eminently proper on such an occasion that the 
 Right Eminent Grand Commandery of Knights Templar should pre- 
 sent a Letter of Credence to such valiant and magnanimous Knights 
 of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, as may participate in the excur- 
 sion. 
 
 A list of these Sir Knights is appended, to vi^hich they have affix- 
 ed their signatures. It is more particularly required from this Grand 
 Commandery, as Pennsylvania was the first State in the American 
 Union which organized a Grand Encampment, in Philadelphia, in 
 1797, from Sir Knights who came to this State from the mother coun- 
 try, and brought with them the rites and ceremonies of our chivalric 
 and Christian Order. Hence it is right and proper that the glorious 
 old Keystone State should be the first Grand Commandery in America 
 to send to our mother country one of her subordinate Commanderies, 
 fully equipped, to visit the home, the altars, the asylums, the historic 
 memorials ; nay, the graves and monuments of our Templar fathers. 
 This fact of itself should, and we trust ever will, render more stable 
 and lasting the fraternal intercourse which should exist between the 
 brethren of two countries descended from a common origin and 
 bound together by the same ties. 
 
 In the exalted character of Knights Templar, therefore, we affec- 
 tionately and fraternally commend each and every one of the niem- 
 bers and Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, as Master 
 Masons, who have worked on the Square — as Royal Arch Masons 
 who have wrought on the Triangle at the rebuilding of the Second 
 Temple, and brought to light treasures of inestimable value — and as 
 Sir Knights, who as Pilgrim Penitents in our Asylums, have not only 
 visited the Sepulcher, but knelt around the Sacred Delta and beheld 
 the cross of our ascended Redeemer. 
 
 These Sir Knights go from among us, for a season, as our imme- 
 diate representatives, and we pray you, as officers and Sir Knights, 
 to extend to our beloved subordinates, the Sir Knights of Allegheny 
 Commandery, No. 35, and those associated with them from other 
 States and other Commanderies, those fraternal greetings, and that 
 disintei-ested friendship and unbounded hospitality which ever has, 
 
24 Crusade to Europe 
 
 and we trust, ever will continue to adorn, distinguish and characterize 
 our magnanimous Order, based upon brotherly love, friendship, and 
 the Christian religion. 
 
 Throughout their perilous voyage by sea and land, the officers 
 of the Right Eminent Grand Commandery, its subordinates, and the 
 individual Sir Knights will feel it to be their duty to pray, Immanuel, 
 God with us, to have the illustrious Knights of Allegheny Ccm- 
 mandery, No. 35, and those associated with them in His most holy 
 keeping, and in due time, return the Sir Knights in peace and health 
 to their families, their friends, their brothers, and their Asylums, in 
 which fond and loving hearts will greet them as weary, wayworn pil. 
 grinis, who, having performed their pilgrimage, desire to rest and 
 offer their prayers and meditations at the shrine of their Redeemer. 
 
 ^ Given under our hands and seal of the Grand Commandery of 
 Knight Templar of Pennsylvania, at the City of Meadville, Crawford 
 County, this tenth day of June, 1878, A. O. 760, A. E. O. P. 81. 
 
 SAMUEL B. DICK, R. E. G. Com. 
 
 J. P. S. GO BIN, D. G. Com. 
 
 De WITT C. CARROLL, G. Generalissimo. 
 
 GEO. W. KENDRICK, Jr., G. Capt.-Gen. 
 
 (^ ^ B. FRANK BRENNEMAN, G. Senior Warden. 
 
 CHAS. W. BATCHELOR, G. Junior Warden. 
 RICHARD MUCKLE, G. Treasurer. 
 
 ATTEST, 
 
 Chas. E. Meyer, Grand Recorder. 
 
 The Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania issues the 
 enclosed Letter of Credence to the following Knights, 
 Members of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, Kniohts 
 Templar, Stationed at Allegheny. Pennsylvania. 
 and tiiose associated with them from other Commanderies: 
 
 Lee S. Smith, E. C. Rev. W. B. Watkins, 
 
 No. 1, Pennsylvania. 
 
 WiLLTAM H. Slack, P. E. C. Je.sse L. Stackhouse, 
 
 No. 4, New Jersey. 
 
 David W. Semple, Rohert Morris, 
 
 Kentucky. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 25 
 
 James Milliken, 
 J. F. Beilstein, 
 Jas. C. Rafferty, 
 Geo. S. Haines, 
 J. D. Landis, C. G. 
 
 No. 34:, Penusylviuiiii. 
 
 A. O. Baker, 
 
 No. bi, Pennsylvania. 
 
 William C. Moreland, 
 
 No. 4S, Pennsylvania. 
 
 Geo. S. Eyster, 
 
 Potomac, yv. Va. 
 
 John Heath, 
 
 No. 35, Pennsylvania. 
 
 R. R. Carson, E. C. 
 
 Logansport, Ind. 
 
 John Amsden, P. E. C. 
 
 Versailles, Kentucky. 
 
 Robert J. Baxter, 
 
 No. 16, St. Louis. 
 
 William Fullerton, 
 
 No. 2, Colorado. 
 
 Edward F. Clinton, 
 
 No. 2, Colorado. 
 
 O. H Brusie, 
 
 South Bend, Indiana. 
 
 Ed. L. Schroder, 
 
 York, Pa. 
 W. C. Irwin, 
 
 No. 12, Ohio. 
 
 Jos. Vv^. Smith, 
 
 No. 7, Pennsylvania. 
 
 Walter E. Hague, 
 
 No. 35, Pennsylvania. 
 
 Alfred Slack, 
 
 No. 35, Pennsvlvaiiiii. 
 
 Accompanying these Letters of Credence, a copy of 
 wliicli was given to each Crusader, was the following 
 to the Right Eminent Grand Commanders of Knights 
 Templar, Jurisdictions of New Jersej' and New York, 
 to pass through their jurisdiction as a body of Knights 
 Templar : 
 
 Gr'S.nd ComniS-ndery^, Knights Templar, 
 km AppEJiDAKT Orders of the State op Pennsylvania. 
 
 7'o the A'ig/it Eminent Grand Coiuuiander, 
 
 Officers and Sir Knights of the Grand Co?iimandery of N. yersey, 
 
 GREETING : 
 It having come to my knowledge, l:>y petition duly signed, directed 
 to me as Right Eminent Grand Commander of this Jurisdiction, that 
 Allegheny Commandery, No. jj. Knights Templar, under our com- 
 mand, contemplate visiting your jurisdiction, and being desirous of 
 promoting the honor of the Order of Knighthood, and aiding the cause 
 of Virtue, linowledge and Hinnanity , 
 
26 Crusadil to EuROI'K 
 
 I IIkrki.y Grant Permission unto Em. Sir Lee S. Smith, Oom- 
 niaiulcr, Of'licers niul Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
 to appear in public in full Templar uniform, or fatigue dreiJs of Knights 
 'remi)lar, as they may wish, on July 1st, 2d, 3d and 4th, A. O. 760, A. 
 D. 1878, to escort the members of the Pilgrimage to Europe to New 
 York City, and to leave this State for a blending of kniglitly sentiments 
 and enjoyment with the Sir Knights Templar of your jurisdiction, and 
 with knightly courtesy to present and make known unto our Illustrious 
 Frater, Right Eminent (!rand Commander of the Grand Commandery 
 of the Knights Templar of the State of New Jersey, and other Illus- 
 trious Companions, Sir Knights, composing the Grand Commandery 
 of the State of New Jersey, the friendly and knightly regards and good 
 intent of the Pennsylvania Knights Templar, for your continued pros- 
 perity and well being, trusting that f}-aiei'tial love may ever exist 
 between us, and that peace and utiity may forever prevail throughout 
 the world in this Christian C)rder. 
 
 And further, our Sir Knights comprising said Commandery, 
 are hereby commended to your knightly consideration, and to all 
 Knights Templar in your jurisdiction. 
 
 Given under our hand, as witness our signature, and the Seal 
 of the Grand Commandery of Knights Templar of Pennsylvania, and 
 attested by the signature of our Grand Recorder, in the City of Mead- 
 ville, this 27th day of June, A. D. 1878, A. O. 760, being the 80th 
 year of the establishment of the Order of Knighthood in Pennsylvania. 
 
 By order of 
 ATTEST, SAMUEL B. DICK, 
 
 j> \ Charles E. Meyer, Grand Comniandcr. 
 
 Grand Recorder. 
 
 With a similar autliority to the Right Eminent Grand 
 Commander of the State of New York, Allegheny Com- 
 mandeiy, No. 35, was, in every way, as a bod}-, prepared 
 for her "Second European Pilgrimage;" and, apropos of 
 our preparation, the following General Orders of Palestine 
 Commandeiy, No. 18, of New York, were issued to the 
 
 SKAL. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 27 
 
 members of that command, so that every detail had been 
 arranged to make the departure of Allegheny, No. 35, a 
 success in every particular. 
 
 ^a^ 
 
 to 
 
 Palestine 
 
 No. 18, 
 
 Masonic Temple, 
 
 353 West 24th Street. 
 
 '^-%. 
 
 ^% 
 
 Com man derj, ^ 
 K. T. 
 
 SlxthAve. &23dS']-. 
 
 ORDER No. 2. 
 
 Sir Knip-Jit : 
 
 New York, June 27, li 
 
 In accordance with our letter to Allegheny Commandery, No. 
 35, K. T. (tendering them an escort, on their arrival in this city, on 
 their way to Europe, and which they have accepted,) you are ordered 
 to assemble at the ferry, foot of Cortlandt Street, N. R., on the morn- 
 ing of Tuesday, July 2d, promptly, at g^ A. M., in full uniform for 
 escort duty. — 
 
 A delegation of six Sir Knights., (to be appointed at our next regu- 
 lar conclave, July ist,) will cross the ferry to Jersey City, and meet the 
 Sir Knights of Allegheny, No. 35, and those of Pittsburgh, No. I, and 
 Tancred, No. 48, who accompany the Crusaders. 
 
 When the delegation and our visiting Knights reach this side, the 
 line of march will move through Cortlandt Street to Broadway, through 
 Broadway to the Grand Central Hotel. On arrival at the hotel the 
 Commandery, as a body, will be dismissed for the day. 
 
28 Crl'sadk to Europe 
 
 It is especially ordered that all Sir Knights will he prompt at 
 Corllandt Street Ferry, on Tuesday morning, at the specified time, to 
 answer the roll call, and to receive their numbers in line, by which 
 they will be designated. If the weather proves stormy, \\\& full faligtce 
 dress will he worn. 
 
 It is the express desire of the Eminent Commander, that as many 
 Sir Knights of our Commandery as can possibly do so, will parade, as 
 he is desirous of having a full re]5resentation of our Command. 
 
 Every Sir Knight who can', will Ije present at 7^ o' c\ocV, promptly , 
 on Monday, 1st prox. 
 
 ATTEST, f GEO. W. SKELLEX, 
 
 James A. Rich, Em. Commander. 
 
 Keco7'der. 
 
 The arrangements being wholly completed, the first 
 day of July was awaited patiently, each of those partici- 
 pating in tlie crusade being now busily engaged in 
 arranging their business matters, and individually- pre- 
 paring for departure. 
 
OF Allegheny Commaxdery. 
 
 ihti^-odiictioii. 
 
 Introduction of Author and the 
 Pilgrims. — Preparing to Leave. 
 New York. 
 
 ' Quartette." — The 
 -The Excursion to 
 
 ikT the very outstarfc of this volume, and at the 
 threshold of our work, our condemnation may be 
 written, our doom may forever be sealed, so far as 
 book-work maj' be concerned; for an apparent evidence of 
 egotism, but we feel that a certain feeling of friendship 
 should exist between the reader and the writer, and that 
 all should become acquainted with the " poor and wear}- 
 pilgrims" about departing on their wayfaring tour; hence, 
 we trust that in thus introducing ourselves, our most 
 severe critics maj'' lean charitably towards us, when we 
 state the fact, that under no circumstances can we permit 
 our hours spent far into the night, the waking in the 
 mornings with bleared eyes, sunken and expressionless 
 in appearance, with visions of ghosts and hobgoblins 
 flashing like wild-fire through our brain — to use a de- 
 scription frequently read of poor and lowly authors, 
 
30 
 
 CrUSADK to El'ROI'E 
 
 who, for a meager pittance, in some lowly corner or gar- 
 ret, grind out i)age after page of intellectual food for the 
 hungiT mind, knowledge for the learning and studious, 
 or trash for the young or lower minds — we sa}' we can- 
 not permit such an opportunity to pass, without introduc- 
 ing ourselves to our reader, and to each Sir Knight with 
 whom we ma}' thus become acquainted ; therefore we 
 humbly ask that pardon, which we feel will readily be 
 granted by all, at least those who have been taught the 
 invaluable lessons of charity and brotherly love, we 
 having thus frankly confessed judgment in this case. 
 
 B}^ occupation we wearily tread the path of life as — 
 pardon our bash fulness — an editor ; earning our livelihood 
 wielding the pencil for a journal, not of the kind that sa3S, 
 " Good morning " to us at the breakfast table, to be read 
 by pater familiasj with glaring headlines of 50,000 
 majority for the opponent of our political views, and 
 which causes us to throw down the innocent paper 
 violently', with still the last bite of toast in process of 
 mastication, jam our hats on wrong side foremost, and 
 pass out at the door, muttering something about Maine, 
 Ohio or Penns3dvania gone Republican, Democratic or 
 Greenback again. No ; not a political journal, nor 
 even one that drops in during the sombre hours of the 
 evening, with foreign news twelve to twenty-four hours 
 old, clippings from other papers and titbits of romance 
 from the monthlies, with choice bits of mild gossip and 
 light scandal ; no, neither such as these, but of such an 
 one as goes into the hands of smiling maidens and pretty 
 
OK Allegheny Commandkrv, 
 
 creatures of the fair sex, with pnges of cuts from the 
 latest imperative orders from dame fashion, which regal 
 mistress causes tlie fair reader and looker on to beseech 
 papa to open his heart and pocket-book to give daughter 
 the wherewithal to purchase sufficient material to make a 
 costume copied from pattern No. 12, &c. 
 
 An editor is supposed by all who are not editors to 
 be a portion of a race of people entirely different from 
 their brethren in humanity — a sort of peculiar personage, 
 who lives, moves and has his being in the most simple 
 kind of manner, a sure dead-head on all free excursions ; 
 ever}- poclvet bulged out with rail road and street car 
 passes; Avith the doors of theatres and opera houses 
 wide open to allow him to enter therein ; picked up bodily 
 and carried by sheer force, and entire!}' in opposition to 
 his will, into Congress and into power ; one who knows 
 everything, can stand any amount of abuse and fears no 
 living thing ; and on behalf of the editor, without deny- 
 ing or affirming the common belief, we would say that 
 the latter clause is about the only thing on this earth an 
 editor has to be thankful for, namely, he is allowed con- 
 siderable freedom about his own office, his home or upon 
 the street, for as a rule the multitude fear the editor, for 
 he is the ghoul of his jurisdiction, pariicularl}- if he be 
 the editor-in-chief, the city editor and proprietor, for 
 these three form the grand trinity of newspaperdom with 
 one noble head the — fighting editor. 
 
 When we bring to the notice of loving parents and 
 kind guardians the fact that away up flights of stairs, in 
 
Crusade 'jo Euroi'k 
 
 some sccliuled nook or corner, gnzing- upon bus}' and 
 begrimned hnmiinit}- below, or 'neatli tlie dim light of 
 lamp or gas, sits the editor, scratching iiis cranium, as 
 his brain ekes out that, wliieh in his o[>iniou is to please 
 mankind generally, onl^' to lintl that withiji twenty-four 
 hours after his pencil has left his article, some terribly 
 oflended personage presents himself at the door of the 
 sanctum, armed in a manner a lava bed or Ute chief 
 would envy, and cry for b-lud ; or when we recall the 
 fact that perhaps the strawberrj^ short-cake, furnished by 
 some church festival — for notice — is the onlj' morsel he 
 lias had for da3's to drive awa}- the dull gnawing at his 
 vitals, we would sa^', give your bo}' the education of a 
 lawyer, doctor, dentist, machinist, counter-hoppei', roller, 
 puddler — anjthing in this world, but do not we pray you 
 entice the young man into a situation where he is not 
 only in great danger of starving, but of being thrashed 
 daily, and under no circumstances allow him to take to 
 the craft, unless you go over him with a tape line and by 
 exact measurement find him to be six feet one inch high, 
 chest fort3^-two to forty-flve inches, his arm above elbow 
 twenty-four inches, with six inches of a " sliding scale" 
 at that point, well skilled in the manly art, an expert 
 with the sword, and a crack pistol shot. With qualifica- 
 tions such as these, tiie chances are, with a fine educa- 
 tion thrown in, ninetj'-nine to one hundred he will be able 
 to drag out a weaiy existence on this mundane sphere 
 anVid struggling humanity. 
 
 We have thus, perhaps lengthily, told of our occupa- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ;^^ 
 
 tion, but we considered it necessary, for had we not filled 
 the afore-described bill and made a success of it, how 
 could we possibly have gathered together sufficient 
 resumption mone}^ to go on a "Crusade?" 
 
 We take pleasure now in introducing first, three gen- 
 tlemen wlio accompanied the " Crusade " and who with 
 the author formed what we shall know throiTgh our work 
 as the '"Quartette," 
 
 Lee S. Smith, Esq., a gentleman engaged in business, 
 in the centre of the busy home of enterprise in the city of 
 much smoke, alias Pittsburgh, alias Iron City, &c., &c., 
 in whose office are case after case filled with front teeth 
 and back teeth, upper teeth and lower teeth, eye teeth 
 and stomach teeth, wisdom teeth, molar teeth, — and — 
 teeth, and — well, yes, and — teeth. Preceding his name is 
 tlie title of doctor, a title he honestly deserves, and here- 
 after we shall know him with the " Quartette " as the 
 Doctor. 
 
 Mnjor William C. Moreland, a gentleman well-known 
 to the citizens not only of Pittsburgh, Allegheny City 
 and their vicinitj^, but throughout the whole State of 
 Pennsylvania, as a gentleman of the highest culture ; 
 gifted with a flow of language and oratory such as the 
 Almight}^ gives to but an infinitessimally small number 
 of the human race ; a gentleman who takes the platform 
 before the largest audiences possible to be assembled, and 
 with his vivid powers of description, his elegantly round- 
 ed periods, holds the vast multitude in perfect silence, 
 
 c 
 
34 Crusade io Eukoi'E 
 
 until the pulsation of a heart could almost be heard 
 aloud ; a gentleman well know to the bench and bar of 
 Alleglieny County, and who has made the rooms of the 
 court house ring and the ears of many " twelve good men 
 and true" tingle witli his elo(iuence — is the third person 
 we wish our readers to become acquainted with, and as a 
 member ot the " Quartette " shall know him as the Major. 
 
 And now to complete the four, whose acts and deeds 
 " have spread both far and wide," we have the pleasure 
 of introducing Colonel Samuel McConihe, an officer in 
 the United States arni}^, a particularly fair and hand- 
 some gentleman, wlio fought, bled, died and came to life 
 again during our civil war, and now stationed in that far 
 western territory where many men think and feel they 
 are happy with anywhere from six to sixty wives and 
 countless children ; a gentleman whose pleasant acquaint- 
 ance we shall ever remember with a positive and lasting- 
 pleasure. Thus is completed with the Colonel, Major, 
 Doctor and "Carlisle" a perfect and happy Quartette. 
 
 PREPARING TO LEAVE. 
 
 As the (\a.y neared for the departure, we find regis- 
 tered the following persons, making the subjoined 
 
 ROSTER : 
 
 Em. Sir Lee S. Smith, Evu Commander. 
 Em. Sir John Amsden, Generalissimo. 
 
 Sir Wm. C. Moreland, Captain- General. 
 
 Sir David W. Semple, Recorder. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 Em, Sir GrEO. S. Eysteii, Treasurer. 
 Em. Sir William H. Slack, 
 
 Prelates. 
 Em. Si I' Robert Morris, 
 
 Sir Wm, Fullerton, Senior Warden. 
 
 Sir Jas. C. Rafferty, Junior Warden. 
 
 Sir J. D. Landis, Sword Bea^rer. 
 
 Em. Sir 0. H. Brusie, Standard Bearer, 
 
 Sir Robert J. Baxter, Warder. 
 
 Sir Kiiiglits James Milliken, 
 
 George S. Haines 
 
 J. F. Beilstein, 
 
 Edward F. Clinton, 
 
 A. O. Baker, 
 
 Jesse L. Stackhouse, 
 
 Edward L. Schroder, 
 
 AND as members OF THE PARTY: 
 
 Col. S. M'Conihe, of Salt Lake City, Utah ; Dr. Wm. M. 
 Herron, Misses Mary and Nannie Herron, Miss Lillian 
 B. Patterson, Mrs. William H. Slack, Mrs. E. C. Raf- 
 ferty, and Frank E, Heath, Esq. of Allegheny City, Pa. ; 
 Dr. A. Dudley, of Salem, Mass. ; Mrs. E. L. Schroder, 
 of York, Pa. ; xMrs. J. T. Mifflin and Mrs. W. T. Frohock, 
 of Philadelphia, Pa.; H. C. Levis, Esq., of Mt. Holly, 
 N. J. ; Wm. E. Corey, Esq., of Kearney, N. J ; C. D. 
 Boynton and Miss Ella M. Carr, of Jersey City, N. J. 
 Miss Susan M. Leverich, of Bridgeport, Coiuie ', Jacob 
 Laucks, Esq., of Womelsdorf, Pa., and E. W. Parke f, 
 Esq., of Little Rock, Ark. 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 The first (\tiy of July finality caino round and all were 
 on the qui vice — friends hurrying hither and thither, 
 packing satchels and trunks; and just here let us add, it 
 is one of the. most pleasant features of leaving home on 
 an extended tour. 
 
 It is such an enjoyable affair after having been puffing 
 and tugging with your collar loose at the back, project- 
 ing itself away up over your ears, pulling at a strap, 
 endeavoring to close the gaping sides of a trunk or 
 satchel, you have it at last securely fastened, and with 
 a sigh of relief you say, "Well, there's a good job 
 done ;" you seat yourself to cool off (we beg our readers 
 to remember that this time is the first of July ;) you see 
 something white below the table or bed on which you 
 have had 3^our things, and you discover 3'ou have foroot- 
 ten to put in 3'our collars or some handkerchiefs, and of 
 course they must go in. 
 
 An air from " Pinafore " or a bar of the " Sweet Bye 
 and Bj^e " are of course the fii'st things which come to 
 your recollection, and with a cheerful smile you proceed 
 to unbuckle your hard-earned pull ; ^-our satchel flies 
 open with a dull thud ; you place in a corner the articles 
 you have innocently oveiiooked ; and go to work again on 
 the satchel. Now you cannot close it ; you sit down on it 
 or call in your wife or the landlady to sit down on it; 
 you place your left foot against it, the veins in 3'our fs)ie- 
 head and neck begin to swell ; your face alternatelj^ 
 becomes purple and red ; 3'ou wear paper collars : a button 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 hole bursts ; you stoop to take a better hold, away goes 
 a suspender button, and still the abominable arrange- 
 ment will not fasten ; you begin to feel a little mad now, 
 and of course it helps things amazingly to heave the 
 satchel a fearful kick, touching up a tender corn or 
 bunion on your right foot; then you look at it and 
 around it, and lo ! tlie poor little innocent tab-like arrange- 
 ment that is in 3'Oiir linen, for holding smoothly down 
 the elegantly laundried shirt-front, has doubled up and 
 in some manner unexplainable, gotten out over the edge, 
 and prevents the lid of the satchel or trunk from being 
 fastened ; you open it to remove the obstruction, when 
 out slides some collars, a necktie, a pair of hose, or 
 something of the kind ; pleasantly replacing them, \',ou 
 get up smiling, aye, may be, singing aloud a verse of 
 some old familiar Sunday school, or revival, or camp- 
 meeting hj-ran, and with cheerfulness depicted on everj^ 
 feature, j'-ou go at the pulling process again, only to 
 break a strap or to have a buckle give way, and the reac- 
 tion brings yon up standing, striking your head against 
 some sharp point or corner, but heeding not any of these 
 seeming little annoj-^ances, the tune you are humming 
 goes on quite as cheerfully as ever. All this we say is 
 exhilarating in the extreme, and would lead a person to 
 wish they were going away every day in the week. 
 
 EXCURSION TO NEW YORK. 
 
 But every mortal thing comes to an end sometime, 
 and as with all others so does the pleasantry of packing ; 
 
38 Crusade to Europk 
 
 and as according to our orders it is now almost 4 P. M. 
 and the hour of departure is almost at hand ; we must 
 say " Good bye " now to dear and loved ones, and 
 although it is surnamed the " ocean ferry " and little is 
 now thought of the dangers of travel b}^ sea, 3'et there is 
 scarcely anything more touching to a man's heart if he 
 is the possessor of a happ}' home, than to gather around 
 him his loving wife, and his little ones upon his knee^ 
 and hear those tender words, affectionately said, " Good- 
 b3'e, husband," and " Bj^e-bye, papa dear," from the 
 loA'ing children as their tender arms encircle the father's' 
 neck ; and as he turns at the doorstep to snatch a last 
 fond kiss from those who are dearer than all the world to 
 him. Xone but those having such homes and passed 
 through such scenes, can appreciate the father's feelings, 
 as he leaves, on looking into his little one's eyes so beau- 
 tiful, sparkling and clear, containing the big tear now 
 read}^ to roll out and over, and hurriedly thinks himself 
 home again, to see those e3'es once more all sunshine and 
 gladness, or that he is now looking into them for the last 
 time on this earth ; despite the anticipated pleasures of 
 the trip and the excitement attendant, it is with sad 
 heart he goes forth from home. 
 
 At 5 P. M. we find the Asylum of Allegheny Com- 
 mandery all bustle and excitement, baggage being check- 
 ed — and here it is but due to a worthy Sir Knight, an 
 honorary member of Allegheny Commnnder}', that to his- 
 kindness much trouble was avoided to the " Crusaders,'' 
 by having voluntarih' j^roffered his wagons and services 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 39 
 
 in checking baggage directly from tlie Asylum to the 
 steamer, and transporting the same to the depot. As 
 Allegheny Commandery is under obligations for many 
 such acts of kindness upon the part of the same gentle- 
 man, all will know to whom we refer, our worthy frater, 
 Sir John W. Haney, of Pittsburgh Commandery, No. 1. 
 
 The hour of starting is 5:30 P. M., and with military 
 promptness — an escort kindl}^ tendered us by Pittsburgh 
 Commandery, No. 1, and Tancred, No. 48, both turning 
 out some fifty swords each — were in waiting for us at 
 our Asylum. 
 
 The lines were soon formed, consisting of about one 
 hundred and fifty Sir Knights, and the commands: 
 Officers^ Posts ! Commandery, forivard, March ! ! were 
 given, when as a piece of machinery, with steady and 
 measured tread, light of foot and. heart, Alleghenj' Com- 
 mandery stepped off from her Asylum on her second 
 European Crusade. 
 
 As we left our quarters we were handed a package by 
 an old time friend, Joseph H. Elton, Esq., with whom 
 we shook hands regretfully, as we should like to have 
 had him along with his old command, and although he 
 gave seemingly good and sufiicient reasons for not going 
 we are prone to believe he,inwardly reflected that thirty- 
 eight persons were a good many to laugh at one man, a 
 couple of days out from New York. 
 
 It was a lovely summer evening, and as the Com- 
 mandery moved down Federal Street, headed by the 
 
40 Ckusadk io KlkoI'I. 
 
 b:ui<1 of the Commandery, under the leadership of Prof. 
 Thomas F. Kirk, playing the " Child of the Regiment," 
 all alonu the loute, on the sidewalks, in the windows, 
 were crowds giving a farewell cheer to tlic pilgrims as 
 they passed, showing, as came forth the hearty •' Good- 
 IjA'e Lee, Will, James," &c., that thej^ Lore with them the 
 good wishes for a safe vo^-age and return of their fellow 
 citizens. 
 
 At the Union Depot we find a special train awaiting 
 us, made up of luxurious sleeping-coaches, placed at our 
 disposal by Thos. E. Watt, P^sq., of tlie Pennsylvania 
 Rail Road Companj^, and after a hearty shake all round, 
 ^" all aboard " was cried out by the conductor ; and at 6 
 o'clock sharp, amid the loud cheers from our friends, and 
 music from the band, we were out of the depot, soon 
 leaving the good old Smoky City behind, and traveling- 
 over the road at the rate of fort}' miles an hour. 
 
 It would be superfluous on our part to describe the 
 main division of the Pennsylvania Rail Road, with its 
 " Pack-Saddle," Johnstown, Cresson, Horse Shoe, Kit- 
 tanning l^oint, &c. Suffice it to say Ave soon reached 
 Altoona, where we made a combined attack upon the 
 supper table, spread specially for us in the dining-room 
 of the Logan House, which we will say is the onl}' place 
 on the Pennsylvania Rail Road where tlie weary traveler 
 can obtain wliat the common run of humanit}' would call 
 a meal. 
 
 Leaving Altoona we sought our berths and Avith 
 
OF Allegheny Commanueky. ' 41 
 
 George C. Johnstone as our bed-fellow, we sought rest 
 in laying down, but so far as sleep was concerned, were 
 out about two dollars and fifty cents worth, for in- talk- 
 ing over matters in general we did not notice the time 
 pass so rapidl}', and were surprised to hear the porter 
 say, '' time to get up, gentlemen," which of course we 
 did, and prepared to go into the restaurant at Philadel- 
 phia, and go through the form of eating at least — we 
 will not say a word about this place, for those who have 
 been there know what it is, and those who have not can 
 try it once and judge for themselves. 
 
 Leaving Philadelphia we sped lively from the United 
 States into "New Jersey," and at 10 A. M. arrived at 
 Jersey Cit}^, where we found a detachment of six Sir 
 Knights in waiting to receive us froto Palestine Com- 
 mandery. No. 18, of New York, under command of Sir 
 
 Horace H. Brockway, Generalissimo of Palestine Com- 
 mandery. 
 
 The Command was again formed and marched on 
 board the ferryboat and conve^'ed to Cortlandt Street, 
 on the New York side. Arrived at Cortlandt Street, 
 the Knights of Palestme Commandery under the com- 
 mand of Em. Sir George W. Skellen, the Eminent Com- 
 mander, and Sir Thomas B. Rand, the Captain- General 
 of that Commandery, were found, drawn up in line 
 awaiting us, and bearing the burning heat of the sun 
 with commendable and exemplary patience ; and after 
 exchange of courtesies by the respective officers, the ISir 
 Knights of Palestine at once assumed the duties of 
 
42 Crusauic to Europe 
 
 escort, and both bodies under the banners of their 
 respective Comnianderies, and headed by tlie band of the 
 Sevent3'-first Regiment, moved up Cortlaudt Street and 
 into Broadway. 
 
 Once on the great thorouglifare of the metropolis, 
 the sidewalks were speedily filled with people, who accom- 
 panied the Sir Knights on their march to the Grand 
 Central Hotel. 
 
 The march up Broadway to the stirring music ot the 
 band was exceedingly pretty and gained special attrac- 
 tiveness by the maneuvres of the escorting Knights, who 
 frequently left the ordinary style of marching in company 
 form, and fell into the cruciform and triangle form. All 
 along the route the occupants of the stores and ware- 
 houses crowded to the windows to see the unexpected 
 pageant, and when tlie Knights drew up in front of the 
 hotel the crowd had grown to very considerable propor- 
 tions. 
 
 The Command was then halted and filing into the 
 corridor of the hotel, and the " Pilgrims " were drawn 
 up in line on the northern side, when the escort went by 
 at a quick pace, giving their guests a marching salute. 
 Doubling back again they drew up in line on the 
 southern side, when Eminent Commander Skellen stepped 
 between the lines, bade Eminent Commander Smith and 
 the Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery welcome to 
 the city in the name of Palestine Commander}'-, and also 
 wished a pleasant voyage to such as were about to 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 43 
 
 depart for Europe. Eminent Commander Lee S. Smith, 
 iittingly replied to tlie warm and feeling remarks of Em. 
 Sir Skellen, after which personal congratulations were 
 exchanged ; and the warm grasp of the hand, the friendly 
 and knightly welcome to each and all of us by the Sir 
 Knights of Palestine Commandery made us feel per- 
 fectl}' at home, and in five minutes were surrounded by 
 as warm friends — though we had never met before — as 
 almost any we could claim in Allegheny City. 
 
 The bodies as bodies, were then dismissed for the 
 daj^, to answer roll-call at headquarters at 8 P. M., the 
 day being spent mostly in the quiet of our rooms until 
 the hour for assembling had arrived, when our escort 
 again visited our quarters, where an informal meeting 
 and reception was held and a most delightful evening 
 spent in old reminiscences of our former pilgrimage, and 
 we feel assured that that evening will ever be remembered 
 as one of the most pleasant occurrences experienced in 
 our " Crusade." 
 
 Pleasant and liappy addresses were made by Em. Sir 
 George W. Skellen, who, by the way, is a gentleman we 
 shall always remember for his genuine good-heartediiess 
 and kindness ; but we must not, cannot mention one 
 unless we speak of all who were there on that evening, 
 for all alike proved themselves to be " good men and 
 true," and everything in their power was done to make 
 our visit to the metropolis as pleasant as it was. 
 
 Remarks were kindly made by Sir James A. Rich, 
 
44 Crusade to Europe 
 
 the genitil unci gentlemanly Recorder, and b}' Past Grand 
 Coinmaiider of the State of New York, p]m. Sir EUwood 
 E. Thorne, who made some A'ery beautiful and touching 
 I'einarks ; requesting tlie Sir Knights ever to bear in 
 mind the Cross, the eml)lem of their Christian order, as 
 on them and their doings the e3'es of the curious and 
 the world would gaze, and asked the Great Jehovah to 
 take the •' Crusaders'' under His special care and keep- 
 ing, and then briefly referring to the deatli of Sir Knight 
 Bell, of Glasgow Scotland, also an honorary member of 
 Allegheu}^ Commanderj^, closed bj' bidding us a hearty 
 and knightly " farewell." 
 
 These remarks were replied to by our Captain-Gen- 
 eral and our friend Sir William C. Moreland, who with 
 liis wonderful God-given power as an orator, in the won- 
 derfully^ beautiful language of Avliich he possesses an 
 exliaustless store, held all witliin his hearing as though 
 spell-bound, and until the palpitations of the hearts of 
 those present could almost be heard, and scarce!}'- an e^-e 
 but was dimmed with a tear — an evidence we ever con- 
 sider noble, as nothing so truthfuU}- tells the heart of 
 man or woman as the tear which comes unforced — as he 
 referred to the life of a Christian and Sir Knight of the 
 Order of the Temple ; and indeed we felt as it were a 
 feeling strongly savoring of pride, as round after round 
 of applause came forth, to know that we had such talent 
 with us to control entirel}^, almost for half an hour, the 
 nigh unto breathless attention of so fine and cultivated a 
 body of gentlemen and Sir Knights as were there assem- 
 bled. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 45 
 
 During the social exclianges of tlie evening a, very 
 pleasant and unexpected little episode occurred, which 
 added much to the already full enjoyment of the 
 occasion. 
 
 Major Moreland arose, and on behalf of a few friends 
 in the " Crusade," presented Em. Commander Smith, in 
 a few appropriate words, with a very iine U. S. signal 
 glass, which we can say was most worthily bestowed, for 
 never did any body of men leave home with a head 
 carrying so honorably the respect and esteem of all, hot 
 only under his official charge, but of all our citizens 
 generally — a gentleman whose name stands far above 
 any reproach — than Em. Sir Smith, who was in every 
 way worthily qualified to lead a body bearing the good 
 name of Allegheny Commandery. The gift was a com- 
 plete surprise to the recipient, and was received in a few 
 neat remarks in return, and thus was a pleasant evening, 
 happily spent, when, owing to the early hour of sailing 
 the follow^ing morning (7 A. M.,) the tender of an 
 escort was respectively declined, and we were bade 
 "adieu "by the Sir Knights of Palestine Commandery, 
 and a " sky-rocket " (a new arrangement to us at that 
 time,) arid which we immediately appropriated, despite 
 the fact that Palestine had a patent on the same, and 
 warned us to that effect, so tliat our friends in Allegheny 
 and Pittsburgh are at any time liable to hear such a 
 clatter of fireworks as will hiy the " great and glorious 
 Fourth " completely in the shade, and not have their 
 insurance rates advanced either. 
 
46 Crusade to Europe 
 
 We must say trul}', that Allegheny Commandeiy has 
 journeyed hither and thither, made man}^ pilgrimages, 
 and will require to niake quite a number more, before 
 her members Mill be more cordiail}' received, more 
 courteousl}' treated, and more hosijitabl}^ entertained, 
 than were the " Crusaders " by the Sir Knights of Pales- 
 tine, and we trust the acquaintance formed between No. 
 18 and No. 35 may be long, lasting, and continued, and 
 that the " sky-rocket " may go forth frequently on the 
 banks of the Ohio in honor of Palestine's A^sits to 
 Alleghen}'. 
 
 After a good night's rest we were called at 4:30 A. 
 M- to make ready for sailing from the Cunard wharf, in 
 Jersey City, and at 5 A. M. breakfasted, paid our bills, 
 and boarded the coach in waiting to take us thither. 
 We should like to, in fact we almost feel it our duty to 
 speak of our sta}" at our liotel, but we will pass it b}-, we 
 will onl}^ say, that Allegheu}^ Commandery owns a fine 
 coach and span of horses in New York, the use of which 
 we fraternall}' extend to any visiting Sir Knights when 
 in New York City ; this tender we freely leave open to 
 all, without reserve. 
 
 Our friends accompanied us to the steamer, and again 
 the ceremonies of handshaking were indulged in, and we 
 find ourselves at 6:45 A. M., on Monday, July 8d, on 
 board the British and North American Royal Hail 
 Trans- Atlantic Steam Ship " Russia," and if there is 
 anything in a name, we were in for all the benefit we 
 could derive from that. 
 
OF Al.LKGHICNY CuMMANDERY. 47 
 
 ^eiie'^ #a i. 
 
 ON BOARD R. M. S. S. " RUSSIA," AT SEA. 
 
 The Pilgrims at Sea. — Celebration of Our Glorious Day 
 of Independence. — Notorious Interruption of Reli- 
 gious Services. — A Truly Loving Couple. — Nine 
 Days in a "World of Our O-wn. 
 
 (^j]>AVINGr found our baggage all safely stowed 
 Sy^ away in our rooms, we returned to the deck of 
 the steamer to take a last look into the faces 
 of our fraters and friends upon the dock ; the last bell 
 had rung for all to leave the ship who were not going 
 out with her ; all was hurry and bustle and activity, 
 orders being passed from captain to officers, and from 
 officers to sailors ; making preparations to cast loose the 
 lines which held the steamer to the deck. 
 
 On every hand were little groups — husbands parting 
 from wives, wives from husbands, parents from children, 
 and friends from friends ; a merry laugh here mingled 
 with a sob there ; making the near surroundings very 
 pathetic. 
 
 " All ashore ! " " Heave away that aft line ! " were 
 
48 Crusauic tu Euroimc 
 
 sliouted from the bridge, iiiul in a few monients tlie lines 
 were cast off, tlie bell in the engineer's room was heard 
 to tingle, tlie machinery was set in motion, the water at 
 the stern commenced to boil and gurgle, and we were 
 now truly awaj'. 
 
 Out upon the head of the pier had gathered our 
 friends, and as we glided slowly out, loud and lusty were 
 the cheers that went up from those on the pier to those 
 on the steamer, and a " Good bye, George!" or a " Good 
 bye, James," " Good bye, Ed.," was heard all along the 
 side of the steamer, which continued until the ship had 
 made her long and graceful curve, turning her pretty 
 sharp prow toward the narrows ; then the faces became 
 dim, until we could see and recognize onl^^ the white 
 straw hat of our genial and jovial friend, A. M. Rambo, 
 Esq., and the last person recognizable being our old 
 friend, George C. Jolnistone, from whom we parted with 
 regret ; the red cross upon his cap, that noble and 
 glorious emblem of the magnanimous order of Knights 
 Templar, pointed him out as he stood at his post waving 
 his handkerchief, and soon the crowd upon the dock Avas 
 only an apparent mass of small pieces of waving rags, 
 and no one could be distinguished. 
 
 What a beautiful morning! as we slowlj^ and quietly- 
 dropped down the bay ; yet, as the sun cast his reflection 
 upon the waters, we looked not with envious eyes back 
 to the city we were fast leaving, for there was every 
 indication the good citizens of New^ York would that day 
 be running around with grape leaves in their hats, mop- 
 
OF Al.l.ECHKNY COMMANDERY. 49 
 
 ping off their fevered brows with four-quarter bandanas, 
 'chewing ice and running about promiscuously, and 
 generally in search of " schooners " without masts. 
 
 But how nice, cool and pleasant with us ; the stiff 
 breeze coming up the ba}' was a cheerful stranger to 
 meet ; and we now were seated away forward, taking in 
 the scenery, beautiful as it is, passing pretty Staten 
 Island and down under the guns of forts Hamilton, 
 Wadsworth and Richmond. We passed the Hook, and 
 giving our pilot a bushel or so of postal cards, letters, 
 &c., we put him in his little boat, and immediately put 
 to sea, closely followecl by tlie "Perierre," of the French 
 line, and met her sister ship, the "Amerique," coming in. 
 
 Having now passed far away from any view of land, 
 we begin to meditate upon our situation, and it is only 
 now we realize the fact that we are on board a 
 " Cunarder." What! a "Cunarder?" Yes, and the 
 commodore ship of the line, the "Russia." There is a 
 singular fact in connection with, this steamer, and that 
 is : prior to the placing of the " Scythia," "Bothnia" and 
 "Grallia," in this line, we never met any person — not one — 
 who had been to Europe and had crossed in a Cunard 
 boat, but had crossed in the "Russia." "Been to 
 Europe, Mr. Smith ? " " Yes, sir; just returned. Came 
 over in the ' Russia.' " " Been to Europe, Mr. Jones ? " 
 " Yes, sir ; arrived in New York one week ago, in the 
 ' Russia,' " and so on ad infinitum. We have yet for 
 the first time to meet one who had ever crossed in tlie 
 " Samaria," " Java," " Calabria," " Parthia," or " Olym- 
 
 D 
 
50 Crusade to EuRori: 
 
 pus ; " and beyond all question of doubt, the '" Russia " 
 has carried more traus-Atlantic passengers to the square 
 inch than an}- other boat or boats combined to the square 
 mile. Having frequentl}- noticed tlie afore-stated fact, Ave 
 now realize that we are at lost making one trip across the 
 ocean in true pomp and style, on board a pompous and 
 stylish steamer, belonging to a line having a long name, 
 and that liad never lost a life. (Sailors' lives not counted.) 
 We felt ourselves grow considerabh' when we thought 
 of all these things ; any former experience of ours in a 
 nautical wa}^ being confined exclusivel}' to more hinnble 
 and common lines, such as the "Cit}' of Boston," or 
 ■^ " Cit}' of Baltimore," of the luman, and the '■ Columbia," 
 '•Cambria," " Angiia," "Australia" and '•California," 
 of the Anchor Line ; and we are now prepared to 
 be lifted from our narrow, contracted ideas of what a 
 steamship is, into all the grandeur of a floating palace. 
 
 Without commenting, let us rather attempt a descrip- 
 tion of an humble boat of an humble line, and then 
 make a tour of the one we are now on. The "Circassia" 
 say, of the Anchor Line, has, first, a flush deck — mean- 
 ing a deck covered over and solid, tlie entire length and 
 breadth of the ship, making a grand promenade. On 
 this deck, amidships, are a smoking room, a handsome 
 ladies' saloon, and a.wa.y above, as the roof to these 
 large and commodious rooms, is what is called the 
 '' hurricane deck," being on a level with the officers' 
 bridge ; and on this is built a round tower with glass 
 windows, so that in times of wet and stormy weather, 
 
OF Allkoheny Commandery. 
 
 51 
 
 passengers can enjo}', if they wish, the " billowing, 
 tumbling waves." From tlie main deck you pass down 
 a magnificent stairway, bronze statuary holding aloft 
 large lamps, and from this stairway you pass round into 
 your staterooms or into the saloon. 
 
 The saloon is the whole width of the steamer, say 
 forty to fort3^-t\vo feet, and maybe as long. The ceiling 
 in the centre is open, in which are growing the most 
 luxurious tropical plants and beautiful flowers, while 
 surrounding this in a circle is the music room, a piano 
 and a pipe organ at either end ; libraries filled with 
 elegantl}^ bound standard works of history, science and 
 fiction. 
 
 The staterooms are on a level with the saloon, large 
 and commodious, luxuriantly upholstered and fitted up ; 
 electric bells in every room, so that a steward or stew- 
 ardess can be called in a moment ; no tin pails and 
 rattling basins, but running water from a spigot can be 
 had at any time. On board are a ver}^ large lavatory, 
 barber shop, and every possible luxury the ocean traveler 
 could possibly desire, either for comfort or necessit}^ 
 It win be observed, as stated, the staterooms are all 
 directly underneath the main deck, so that those rooms 
 are alwa3^s above water, and it has to be a pretty rough 
 day when the portholes cannot be kept open, and 
 freshen the rooms with good, pleasant air. Hastily- 
 described, these are a few of the comforts of so common 
 a boat as the " Circassia," with one other important 
 addition : two persons only are ever placed in a single 
 room. 
 
52 Crusadk to EuKoI'K 
 
 Now let us look about us and see our commodore 
 ship, find about the simplest manner possible to describe 
 her, is to say she has not one of these conveniences. 
 You go down a ladder from tlie quarter deck to the 
 main deck, and then pass down two stairways to the 
 " first floor," where instead of good clear daylight, 3^ou 
 have lamps and foul air from closed portholes, and three, 
 or even four, in a room. Ladies can have their choice, 
 go down two stories to their rooms, or stay on deck 
 through rain and fog. Gentlemen can suit themselves, 
 give up the filthy practice of smoking, or hug the smoke- 
 stack, or sit down in the hatchway and enjoy their 
 fragrant Havanas, and finall}', if the " Russia " is a 
 commodore ship we would like to try a liner. 
 
 Of one thing we can freely speak in terms of praise ; 
 never will more perfect discipline be seen on land or sea, 
 nor a more gentlemanly man, or more watchful captain, 
 than Commodore Cook of this steamer. He is never 
 seen gadding and gossiping around with ladies -and 
 passengers in general, always by himself, and always on 
 duty, taking a peep at the compass or a squint at the 
 sails. 
 
 Having now been down to our room — we say doiv7i 
 with emphasis — and having made the rounds of the 
 steamer, and having put oh our overcoats we are fully 
 prepared for the wind or the blast, or neither, of our sea 
 voj'age. Our party numbering thirty-eight, we are 
 assigned to what is termed the fore saloon, a very cosy 
 room too, away forward of the smokestack, and just 
 
OF ALLEtaiENY COMMANDERY. 53 
 
 suflEicientl}^ large to accommodate us, and by this method 
 we are the better enabled to become acquainted with 
 each of our traveling companions, and of course the first 
 day is sufficient to decide who are to be " crowds " on 
 the A^oyage. 
 
 Of course among so many as we have on board, we 
 have a large assortment of dispositions ; j^oung men 
 fresh from college, young ladies from " Bosting," old 
 gentlemen from the countr}^, doctors, lawyers, ministers, 
 politicians, priests, merchants, school teachers, music 
 teacliers, philanthrophists, pliilosophers, astronomers, 
 and generals, colonels, captains, by the score. 
 
 Thursday, Jul^^ 4th, the great and glorious day of 
 our American Independence, we were all up early and 
 moving round as livel3' as crickets. The day was dull, 
 foggy, 3'et withal not disagreeably so ; the water as 
 smooth as the Allegheny or Ohio rivers. None but were 
 at least, as Gough would sa^^, " com-for-a-ble," — not a 
 single person sick, tables all full, and all working out 
 bravel}' tlieir passage monej^ No signs whatever of hav- 
 ing a laugli at the expense of another; in fact we 
 despaired, from the healthy appearance and hearty 
 appetites of all, of seeing, as Judge Kirkpatrick describes 
 them, running to the side of the steamer and lustily 
 yelling, "New York! New Yoruk ! ! New Yorruk ! ! ! " 
 
 After dinner we met in our saloon for the purpose of 
 commemorating in some way the one hundred and second 
 anniversary^ of our Natal Da}-. The meeting was called 
 to order by Prof. William H. Slack, who nominated Lee 
 
54 CkUSAIiK to KlKol'K 
 
 S. Smith for president, and D. W, Semple for secretarj', 
 both of which nominations proved the appreciation of 
 our party for superior talent, when some one loudly 
 moved the nominations close, and it is needless for 
 me to sa}', dear reader, the election Avas unanimous. 
 Messrs. Robert Morris, L. L. P., of Lagrange, Ky. ; 
 Edward Clinton, of Colorado; Dr. A. M. Milligan, 
 Chaplain of tlie Western Penitentiary, in Allegheny 
 City ; J. B. Amsdcn, of Kentucky, and Geoi'ge S. Eyster, 
 of West Virginia, were elected vice-presidents. 
 
 Although with two hundred and seventy-five passen- 
 gers on board, yet our little party was the onl}- one to 
 show any remembrance of our nation's birthday-, and we 
 are now patiently waiting our appointment to some 
 $17,500 foreign mission — say to the court of St. James — 
 by the President, as an appreciation of our loyalty. 
 Prof. Slack stated the object of the meeting, which 
 was opened by a fervent prayer by Dr. Milligan, and the 
 singing of the " Star Spangled Banner " by Prof. Slack, 
 and a hearty chorus by all in the party, which we are 
 sure frightened away at least all the little fishes, if not 
 the larger ones, which might be swimming along in the 
 wake of the steamer, waiting for those persons to come 
 to the side and yell " New Yorruk ! ! " and which was 
 rendered so heartil}-, and witli such a strong good will 
 as to at once awaken enthusiasm, and to fire up everji-one 
 to make the meeting a rousing one. 
 
 Major Moreland was called on, and well he warmed 
 up in his oratory for he had a glorious subject and 
 
ov Allecheny Commandeky. 55 
 
 as gloriously did lie acquit himself; and as he finished 
 his remarks, he was applauded and cheered until tlie 
 clapping of hands and roars from hundreds of voices 
 might have been heard at Sandy Hook, and rendering 
 the fog whistle utterly useless. 
 
 " My Country 'Tis of Thee," was then sung, and Dr. 
 Milligan made an able and stirring address. Sir Robert 
 Morris, the noted traveler and lecturer, was the next 
 speaker, and feeling a " leetle onpleasant " about where 
 the vest fits the tightest, made only a few brief remarks, 
 but exceedingly well put, of many persons going abroad 
 as " traveled monkeys," Rev. T)r. Deere, of Michigan, 
 spoke at some length, pointedly and ably ; then came 
 " Columbia the Gem of the Ocean," followed by the 
 beautiful duet, " Larboard Watch," by Prof. Slack and 
 Dr. Lee Smith who has an elegant deep basso voice, 
 (particularly for crying, "Steward, some more prunes 
 and crackers!") Other songs were then sung, and Dr. 
 Smith recited beautifully, "Wounded," and our pleasant 
 evening was closed with " In the Sweet Bye and Bye," 
 and the Fourth of July, 18t8, was numbered with the 
 past. Foggy all day, sea very calm and at noon had 
 made three hundred and fifty miles. 
 
 Friday, the 5th, was clear and beautiful, and if such 
 were possible, the sea smoother than ever; the "Perierre" 
 again in sight, as well as a steamer having fair winds 
 with her, was making rapid way to New York. 
 Not a " ripple on the wave," and it was a most amusing 
 sight to see some of our party poke their fingers in 
 
56 Ck L.SAUK TO EUROPIi 
 
 the arm-holes of their vests, and strutting alj(Hit the 
 deck, loudl}- boast, " Oh ! I'm not going to be sick ! " 
 " VViiy, I went round Cape Hatteras in a gunboat once," 
 or '• Went up tlie Kiskiminetas or Schuylkill river in a 
 skiff and never missed a meal." Among those so boast- 
 ing and so strutting was the D. D., (not Doctor of 
 Divinity but Doctor of Dentistr3\) 
 
 We gazed wath the utmost satisfaction upon the 
 Doctor, the Mnjor, the Colonel, and others, as thej' rolled 
 indiscriminately into soups, pies, '' rol}' - pol^'^ " and 
 " sich like," and seeing them progressing thusl}', we 
 couldn't stand the dull monoton}^ any longer, so we set to 
 work to get up a little toss, which b}- the little clouds no 
 larger than a man's hand away off on the horizon, w^e 
 concluded we would have,, and we did have it, as we will 
 soon see. This day was pleasantly passed with a shuffle- 
 board, euchre, whist, attempts at reading, etc., and at 
 noon had added three hundred and twenty- miles more 
 to our log. 
 
 Saturday, JUI3' 6th, was clear and pleasant ; meeting 
 occasionally or passing a sailor or two ; the party Avalk- 
 ing in heavilj' to rich dinners, and getting an excellent 
 " ready on " for the following da3\ All were going- 
 round with broad grins and pleasant smiles, coming up 
 cheerfull}^, cracking jokes at one another, and oh ! how 
 J0II3' the\' all felt as they said. '' Grood morning '' or 
 " Good night, Doctor," " Good night, Carlisle," &c., and 
 with what an immense feeling of satisfaction every one 
 would come up from dinner and '■ pull down his vest." 
 
)F ALHiGUENV CoMMANDKKY. 57 
 
 The Doctor did that; the Major did that, and several 
 others, and all retired that evening just "feeling elegant.'' 
 Ahem ! Made three hundred and six miles to-da3^ 
 
 Sunday, Jul^^ Yth. I awakened from a most refresh- 
 ing sleep, and heard some kind of somnambulism in my 
 room ; the sea was gurgling up and over the port- 
 hole in a verj^ A'iolent manner. I looked over my 
 bunk to find my room-mate, the Doctor, had vacated. 
 James Rafferty, another room-mate, lay in his upper 
 berth makino^ some kind of mumbling remarks about 
 " Federal Street — Allegheny' — home." On looking over 
 the side I found something come bumping around my 
 bed on the sofa, the Doctor's valise diving wickedl}^ into 
 the sides of my two-story Saratoga; friend Rafferty's 
 Knight of Templar cap running around fearful of being 
 jammed between trunks and evidently searching for its 
 owner ; one leg of my pantaloons chasing the other 
 wildly up and down ; a cent running after a pocket-book, 
 or the pocket-book trying to capture the escaped cent ; 
 umbrellas playing leap frog with canes, and everything 
 in the room, in fact, having a jolly good game of " tag," 
 and the vessel bobbing round like a cork. I said, ''Well, 
 James, how do you feel ? " " Oh, 'Carlisle,' " says James, 
 "if I only was at home; Ugh! Ugh!!" That was 
 enough ; I knew how James felt ; I had been there on 
 more than one occasion. Finally- I arose feeling, so far, 
 tip-top, and after skirmishing round for a little while 
 and bracing myself between two trunks, I succeeded in 
 laying hands on the drunken water-pitcher, and having 
 
58 Crusadk to Euroi'K 
 
 perfoniied tlie necessary ablutions, proceeded on deck to 
 lind but a few persons there and it almost eight o'clock. 
 The first person we meet is the Doctor, and with " Good 
 morning, Doctor," we greet liim " how are 3-ou this 
 morning? ■' " Oli, l.am not sick at all, Carlisle," sa3'S 
 he, " but I am not well by a large majority." 
 
 Of this we were perfectly satisfied before inquiring, 
 but the Doctor takes ever^^tiiing good-iiaturedl}^ and 
 philosophically^ and enjoyed the laugh on him all in good 
 part. Now and again, up comes some straggler, among 
 whom was the Major, or the Absolom of our part\% his 
 raven locks just as neat, pretty and curly as ever ; but, 
 oh ! horrors, what a face! Not usually lengthy, now dis- 
 tended six inches further than customary, and after a 
 liasty rush to the side. to see if he can observe any 
 barnacles on the ship's side, "fesses up" like a man, 
 '' that he is sick and don't care a continental who 
 kiwws it." 
 
 Then away forward coming towards us is our friend 
 Baxter, from St. Louis, now and then stopping to see if 
 phosphorescence can be seen in da^dight. The vessel is 
 rolling fearfulh' and it is with difficult}- one can navigate 
 the deck, and it was a most amusing sight to see our 
 musical professor coming along the deck at an angle of 
 about fortj'-five degrees, a lady on either arm, his portl}' 
 figure onls" half visible from carr3-ing waterproofs^ 
 wraps, gum cloaks, nubias, shawls, in fact a general 
 assortment of dr^- goods, and in addition to these, of 
 course, every lady must have her book and smelling- 
 
(IF* Allegheny Commandery. 59 
 
 bottle, and umbrella, and crocheting, and lace work, 
 and knitting, &c., all of which Professor S. was carrying 
 gracefnlly and smiling as clieerfully as ever, his counte- 
 nance as bright and liappy as though leading the Alle- 
 gheny ■•' Quartette " to musical glory, or the good people 
 of a certain church in Allegheny in 8's, t's and 4's, for 
 so far our genial friend has not been under the weather, 
 he being an old tar, and crusaded with our fraters in "71. 
 And we might add here that we do not see how many of 
 our party would have gotten along without him, for he 
 was as a ministering angel unto many, proving himself 
 exceedingly kind and attentive, going down into the 
 staterooms of tliis one and that one, putting in a kind 
 word here or prodding another one there with his 
 inevitable cane, until they they were compelled to get 
 out on deck, take in some of the good fresh air, and be 
 made well. But then he, like us all, has his faults, being- 
 mortal as us all, and we do unquestionably vote him 
 the most selfish man on board the vessel in one particu- 
 lar -j^ notwithstanding the fact that he is accompanied by 
 his better-half, yet he monopolized the entire company 
 of the young ladies of our part}' at the table, to the 
 evident displeasure of our young friends from West 
 Yirginia, New Jersey and Pennsylvania, for they v/ere 
 debarred the pleasure of doing the agreeable ; but the 
 boys had the inside track on him when the stars began 
 to twinkle and the moon shone o'er the sea. 
 
 To return to Sunday, a broad smile would have been 
 " smoled " could the reader have seen our manl}'- and 
 gallant Em. Commander, v^ho had bravely faced the enemy 
 
bo Crusade to Europe 
 
 in our late civil war and led whole armies to battle, 
 and shot down poor starving prisoners with cold hearted 
 pleasure, (in the "Drummer Boy of Shiloh," on the 
 stage of one of our Pittsburgh theatres,) his noble 
 six feet of manhood laying prostrate on the deck, meek 
 and helpless as an innocent little lamb, pleading with 
 •' Carlisle " to go down and interview the steward on the 
 subject of a sour orange, and laboring under a bad 
 attack of the "Ugh's!'' and our famed orator, the Major, 
 beside him, with not exactlj'^ an attack of the " Ugh's ! " 
 but correspondingi}' as bad of the "Oh! mj^'s ! " He 
 who is our pride, our gallant Captain-General, as sick as 
 his superior oflicer. 
 
 Tlien there is our friend from St. Louis, the sickest 
 man I ever saw in m^^ life, threatening to commit suicide 
 b}^ jumping overboard, and his face as long as a politi- 
 cian's affidavit. But he was cured this morning. He 
 was treading along the deck, swaggering with ever}- 
 lurch of the ship, his hand about the centre of his body, 
 (we trust onl}^ to pull down his vest ;) but through it all 
 the best natured and kindest hearted person possible. 
 He went awaj^ forward and engaged the ship's carpenter 
 in conversation, mistaking him for the Doctor, related to 
 him his feelings. The carpenter said he could soon fix 
 him up. Our friend wanted to know how, of course, and 
 discovered his mistake in the person he was addressing, 
 when Mr. Carpenter brought forth some pine boards, a 
 saw -and some nails, and drawing hastily' a coffin on one 
 of the boards, said he could make one like that in about 
 
OF Allegheny Commanderv. 6i 
 
 jive minutes. Sunday was an awful day on our friend 
 from St. Louis. He succumbed to the pleadings of the 
 Doctor for a "sour orange," and. on returning from the 
 interview with the steward, (in fact we were now steward 
 
 de facto ourselves,) we found our friend B from 
 
 Indiana was in reality a philosopher. He was evidently 
 near-sighted at that moment, and was intently looking 
 down through a scupper-hole, and replied on our inquir- 
 ing what he was doing there, and with his face so close 
 to the opening, " that he was simply meditating upon the 
 m3^steries of naval architecture ; that thej^ would make 
 holes in the sides of the vessel, and wondering why the 
 sea did not come up through and sink the vessel." 
 
 Then a few steps further on we met our friend C , 
 
 from Colorado, large tears coursing down his cheeks 
 from liis large blue eyes, doubtless thinking tenderly of 
 home, and we did not stop him to inquire the cause of 
 his sadness, fearing that we should start afresh the foun- 
 tains of grief. 
 
 Many were the amusing scenes of this Sunday — the 
 few persons at the table grabbing for a runaway soup'- 
 dish, an escaping plate or cup, or a harum-scarum tumbler 
 or goblet that wanted to carry on its own course regard- 
 less of the liberties and rights of others. The Comman- 
 dery was but poorly represented at table so far as quan- 
 tity was concerned ; the officers having fallen in the good 
 fight, and we pi'esume that their feelings were that they 
 did not care at that time whether all the Grand or Subor- 
 dinate Commanderies in Christendom went to wreck or 
 
62 CkISADK to KlKOl'K 
 
 not; at least judging from the woeful, distressed and 
 
 i 
 sorrowful faces of the Em. Commander and Captain- 
 General. 
 
 Speaking of the table, one of the most amusing 
 scenes occurred tliis da}'^ we have had the pleasure of 
 seeing for man}- a day. At our table, and near us, sat a 
 gentleman from " Bostmg," who ''couldn't for the 
 world, 3^ou know, see how au}' one could wear clean or 
 white linen in so vile a place as the City of Pittsburgh," 
 and this gentleman of " culchali " has been seasick almost 
 all the vo3'age, at least he has been troubled with " con- 
 siderable nausea," particularly so on this day, and was 
 beyond all question of doubt the best " feeder " within 
 our knowledge. So, to use a verj'^ vulgar expression, 
 which, nnder the circumstances, we ask our reader to 
 pardon, a gentleman from Brooklyn and '' Carlisle " set 
 up a base job on him. 
 
 We got him down to the dinner table, which is as a 
 rule particularh^ rich and fine on Sunday ; made friends 
 with him, sj'mpathizing deeply with him in all of his 
 miserable feelings, and having gained his confidence, 
 proceeded to prescribe several specific remedies for that 
 abomination of abominations, sea sickness. We told 
 him his onl}^ reason for his being so afflicted was insuffi- 
 ciency' ot eating, — he in the meantime, at all previous 
 meals, going directly through the bill of fare as the 
 bo3'S of to-da}' do through a commercial college, and 
 adopting the tactics of our friend from Indiana — philoso- 
 ph}'-, we philosophized with him thush^ : That to fill a 
 steamer but three-quarters full in each of her holds, it 
 
OV Al.LF.CliKNY CiiMMANDKRV. 63 
 
 stood plainly to reason that on putting to sea in that 
 condition her cargo in time of rough weather would 
 rattle around regardlessly, and give her officers consider- 
 able trouble. On the same principle precisely was it 
 with a man in sea sickness ; tliat if he ate but little, 
 leaving a vacuum in nature's receptacle, and did not 
 pack himself tight, his cargo would necessarilj^ flop 
 arouud at will, and this constaut churning was the whole 
 and onl}- cause of all this terrible nausea and state of 
 un-com-for-a-ble-ness ; and to this philosopliy he entirely 
 succumbed, perhaps on its vast strength, perhaps on its 
 general principles ; and we referred our argument to the 
 several medical and clerical gentlemen opposite us, viz. : 
 Dr. Wm. M. Herron, Dr. Bittinger and Dr. A. M. Milli- 
 gan, whom any fair minded person would consider a 
 committee of good authority on either physical or 
 spiritual matters, and of course tliQy could not but agree 
 with us in our argument ; adding that all the Isaac New- 
 ton's were not passed from among us. 
 
 So to-day we sent him almost unto death's door, 
 insisting upon him punishing the following list, Avliich 
 he did, and it is a fact, too : Two large plates of macca- 
 roui soup, (now anyone knows that maccaronl soup is a 
 sure cure for sea sickness,) then a large piece of baked 
 salmon and three potatoes, (more good cure,) roast beef, 
 roast turkey, salmon pie, and palmed off a pork chop for 
 a mutton chop, some more potatoes, corn, spinach, and 
 some cucumbers, (now we advise all seasick persons to 
 eat cucumbers. Oh ! they are a sure remedy!) And all 
 
64 CKISADK 10 El ROl'K 
 
 those we assisted him to in large doses ; some he did not 
 wisii to touch, but liaving tlie gentleman's welfare and 
 health at heart, we felt it our dut}^ as a brother man to 
 make him a well man. Then we gave liini about half an 
 apple i)ie. a lemon tart, a raspberry tart, some rice, jam 
 and custard, all on his plate atone time, (these items have 
 never been known to fail in effecting a speedj'- and cer- 
 tain cure!) The next course we gave hiin almonds, 
 filberts, raisins, figs, oranges, and a green apple ; and 
 begged to suggest that all that was necessary now to 
 settle his sea sickness forever, was a good cup of strong 
 cofiee, (and if these things Avouhl n't fetch a man nothing 
 under the sun would!) While the coffee was being- 
 brought, we suggested as a capital thing to settle the 
 stomach for the night, was the taking of a Welsh rarebit 
 and a bottle of porter just before retiring, which he said 
 he would take tliat evening. We noticed a peculiar gag- 
 ging sensation was being carried on by our friend, and 
 just before the coffee was served, we mentioned the fact 
 of many persons crossing tlie ocean frequentU' without 
 having the least unpleasant sensation until reaching the 
 coast of Ireland, when we had known the ship to rise 
 and fall anywhere ivoxn. forty to seventy-five feet, and you 
 should have seen the gentleman get up and leave that 
 table when he heard the ^'' seventy five"' feet. Xever 
 waited on coffee or said a word, but seizing his shawl 
 and cap, was out the door like a streak of lightning, 
 amid roars of laughter from our fellow passengers, and 
 that was tlie last meal he ate at that table on that 
 voyage. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 65 
 
 Amid all these passing scenes, we would not have the 
 reader suppose that Allegheny Commandery, on leaving 
 home, would forget or neglect her devotions, and as 
 there was to be church in the large saloon, the Comman- 
 dery was called together by orders at 10 A. M. to answer 
 roll call and to attend divine service at 10:30 A. M., and 
 the following surviving Sir Knights answered to their 
 names: Past Em. Com. William H. Slack and your 
 humble servant, " Carlisle." Just think of it ! Here 
 were two members of No. 35, now all that were left of the 
 good old Commandery, to go down to worship ; there- 
 fore being at once E. C, Generalissimo, Capt.-Gen, Treas., 
 Recorder, and line officers and privates, at one and the 
 same time. The Professor and " Carlisle " accordingly 
 linked arms and wended their way down the ladder and 
 to the house of devotion. Dr. Abercrombie, of New 
 Jersey, read the service, and Dr. Peabody, ex-president 
 of Yale College, preached the sermon, which was one 
 hour and fifteen minutes in duration, and would have 
 been an admirable theological address to students. 
 
 But even in the temple of solemnity we are prone to 
 enter the house and portals of mirth and merriment, for 
 while the services were being read by Dr. Abercrombie, 
 a most amusing thing occurred, and one we shall never 
 forget so long as we live. In the beautiful Episcopalian 
 service, where the responses are given and chants ren- 
 dered by a trained choir, and precisely at those parts, for 
 instance, " Good Lord, deliver us," was being responded, 
 a couple of distressed parties were out at as many scup- 
 
 E 
 
66 Crusadk to Elroi'E 
 
 per-lioles, and were evidently gargling their throats for 
 some affection therein, and vociferonsl^^ j'elling, " Oh ! 
 dear!" '• Oli, my ! " "Ugh!" " New Yorruok! " and 
 similar expressions, and fitting in so perfectly at the 
 points they did, a titter was started in the worshiping 
 congregation, and even our worth}' minister smiled 
 rather audibly. After service we made earnest en- 
 deavor to find out who it was. The Doctor declared 
 it was the Major and the Major as earnestly declared 
 it was the Doctor. Personally I am satisfied it was 
 the Doctor, for a Methodist minister was at one scup- 
 per-hole, and I am certain the Doctor went to the other 
 through sympath}^ and kind feeling towards one of 
 the same faith and creed, and besides we have since 
 then discovered that the Doctor mastered up his cour- 
 age to come down and sit with the balance of the 
 Commander}', but the aforesaid scupper-hole was as far 
 as he reached on his pilgrimage, for the spirit was will- 
 ing but his stomach most fearfully weak. 
 
 We would kindl}' sa}- a word here to husbands, that 
 you need have no feai* of sending your wives to Europe 
 whenever the}^ may desire to make such a trip, for tlie}^ 
 will suffer from no lack of attention whatever; and to 
 wives, that the}^ need have no fear either that their hus- 
 bands, going from their homes, will lose or forget their 
 customar\- gallantry. 
 
 We have on board a lady who claims to be the wife 
 of a minister, (let us trust that she is mistaken, to put it 
 mildly,) from , and a celebrated lawyer, (in his 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 67 
 
 own estimation,) from , who were fun for the mil- 
 lion. We happen to have several attorneys on board 
 
 who actually do hail from , and they unanimously 
 
 tally in their report that i\\Qy never before heard of such 
 a man as Dr. Well, this gentleman — this cele- 
 brated lawyer — was some six feet tall, wore a Dutch cap 
 over his riglit eye, and taking him in generally, we have 
 frequently in our daily walks in life seen many much 
 more handsome men. 
 
 She, Mrs. Minister, was fully four feet nine inches, 
 and we have also seen at times ladies who- might be 
 termed more beautiful than she, and even be telling the 
 truth ; while between the two it was about five parts to 
 five parts as to affectation to hear them discussing the 
 " solah " system, etc., as in the evening they cosily sat 
 nigh unto each other, a warm robe giving its warmth to 
 both at the same time. 
 
 This Smiday evening Prof. Slack and " Carlisle," at 
 about IIP. M., concluded to go up on deck, after having 
 been reading for an hour or so in the saloon, and obtain 
 a little fresh air before retiring to our beds of ease 'neath 
 eider-down quilts, and we were fully repaid for our inten- 
 tions. Having opened the package mentioned earlier in 
 this work, we found our friend Joseph H. Elton had 
 known our failings and put us up a box of fragrant and 
 choice Havanas, and lighting one we meandered towards 
 the main deck. On reaching there all was still and silent 
 as the grave, no signs of life visible save the watchful 
 officer on the bridge as he trod his beat steadily and 
 
68 Crusade to EuKori-: 
 
 ftiithfullv- We walked slowly towards the smokestack, 
 when we uiuntentionally overheard voices, and heard the 
 following snggestive and interesting conversation, being 
 drawn out in true blue Yankee style : 
 
 Mrs. Minister was saying " She did not know what 
 love was ; " to which came the reply : " A h ! dear ; can 
 it be possible you have not felt the tender touch upon 
 the heart's sensitive chords — that you do not know what 
 love is? Two souls with but a single thought two 
 hearts that beat as one. Ah ! my ! could n't you love 
 
 me, and teach your little D to love me ? '' (referring 
 
 to the little daughter of Mrs. Minister.) She said " She 
 could not quite comprehend the full import of his 
 tender words ; " and tlien, giving her a very warm 
 embrace, he said: "Never mind, dear; have faith in 
 God and all will come out right." Yes, and then through 
 the day might have been seen this gentleman and lady, sit- 
 ting side by side, bibles in hand, reading chapter after 
 chapter aloud. And then the Professor spoiled the 
 whole job by sa3dng, "What a good cigar that was ! " 
 and of course the whole jig was up, and the Romeo and 
 Juliet scene was knocked into " pi ; " and as the curtain 
 fell we had passed over Sunday and our fifth day out. 
 
 Monday, July 8th, the rolling had ceased consider- 
 ably, nothing but a good swell being on the sea; pleasant, 
 and aside from the pastimes engaged in, nothing occur- 
 red of much interest, save one little item, and which, by 
 the way, was the cause of the formation of the " Quar- 
 tette." At the head of our table sat a oentleman whose 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 69 
 
 name we have already mentioned, veiy sedate and 
 reserved in his manners, always by himself, seemed to 
 have no particular company, was always prim and spruce, 
 as though he spent the major portion of his life on ship- 
 board in the dressing-room. Tliis afternoon we observed 
 him leave the deck, and an hour or so later we happened 
 to look over the railing to the quarter-deck, and observed 
 this stately and erect personage smoking a cigar, clean 
 shaven, a tender cane in his gloved hand, come saunter- 
 ing down from the saloon stairway ; the vessel was roll- 
 ing considerabh^, when suddenly along came a great 
 lieav3^ swell, struck the side of the ship, careened her a 
 little, when over came a ton or so of water, and doused 
 w^io ? — -why it was our friend the Colonel — through from 
 head to foot, leaving him almost a total wreck ; his 
 collar hung about his neck as a piece of twine, his cigar 
 had gone to fool some of the little fishes, while water 
 oozed from the tops of his gaiters with every mrotion of 
 his foot. He was, as usual, cool as a cucumber, to use 
 an aged expression ; made a calm and deliberate retreat 
 to his quarters, and reappeared soon after in his former 
 dress. We had the laugh on him ; he bore it all good- 
 naturedly and soldierly, and from that moment the 
 *' Quartette " was formed. 
 
 We have one other person to whom we wish to pay our 
 respects, and he gets completely away with anything we 
 have yet met in our travels, far or near. Our party has 
 still many on its sick list, "Carlisle" being the only 
 representative of the " Quartette " appearing at the 
 
70 Crusade 'lo Europk 
 
 table, the remainder taking tiieir provender on deck. 
 'IMiis gentleman to whom we refer, is sick ; 3-es, very 
 sick. He wears a heavy 'double shawl, is suffering 
 severely from a disorganized liver, a stomach which 
 refuses to perform its usual functions, and a bad dose of 
 dyspepsia', (sq he says, but do the facts bear him out ?) 
 
 The deck steward comes around, and takes the orders 
 of those eating on deck ; this gentl-eman with the others 
 gives his order ; the dinner bell rings ; he goes down to 
 the saloon and punishes a fair dinner there, commencing, 
 say with soup, and winding up with plum pudding. On 
 arriving on deck, the steward is about delivering the 
 orders, and this poor, ill being makes away with this 
 dinner also, and then it is a daily and usual occurrence to 
 hear him say " Doctor, do you wish that piece of beef on 
 your plate ? " or, " Major, can I haA^e that piece of tart^ 
 if you are through with it ? " "Well, we profess to be 
 something on appetite, but we have never been answered 
 in our praj^er to have just such a liver and stomach and 
 case of dj^spepsia as has this gentleman with the shawl. 
 
 Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday the ocean had 
 again become as an inland river. Schools of porpoises 
 plaj^ed about the bow of the steamer, and no item of 
 interest occurred to vary the dull monoton}^ of ship-board 
 life, other than the more frequent sighting of steamers 
 and sailing vessels. 
 
 Friday morning. July 12th, we are up bright and early; 
 it is raining very hard, and we are hugging the smoke- 
 stack closel}', endeavoring to keep warm, and waiting 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. 71 
 
 patientl}^ to sight land. A hea\y fog is down and around 
 us; we go down and have our breakfast, and, coming up, 
 we find the fog lifting, and sud<lenly our hearts are grati- 
 fied by the cry from the look-out, "Land ahead, on the 
 port bow, sir ! " We look, and away in the distance we 
 see the breakers. The rain is now ceasing, the inisty cur- 
 tain is lifting, and lo ! there is the beautiful and green 
 "Emerald Isle," and happy are Ave to see it ; all the sick 
 are as a miracle made well and whole, and we are all 
 pleased that we are to plant foot first on the sod of good, 
 grand and beautiful " Old Ireland." We are now passing 
 at no great distance the " Skeilliff Rocks." 
 
72 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ^<^iie'^ Mo. S. 
 
 The Pilgrims landed at Queensto-wn. — Their First 
 Trouble on Ireland's Green Sod. — Attempts at 
 Smuggling. — Reception in Cork. — In Trouble again 
 in a Barber Shop. — A Ilo"w with a Hotel Proprie- 
 tor. — Blarney Castle. — Shandon Church. — Incidents 
 by the Way. 
 
 C^S stated in the preceding letter, we were passing the 
 " Skeillig Rocks." . Some of our party had not yet 
 had their morning meal, when some one would come 
 up, and, smacking his lips, say, " Porridge; go down and 
 have some porridge ! " to which would come the unani- 
 mous and echoing reply from the aforesaid watchers, in a 
 tone of voice pitched to high E flat, " No ! Get thee to a 
 Nunnery ^1 thou base serf ; we will have no porridge, give 
 us land, tliat's what we want, and lots of it." 
 
 So far as the writer was concerned, he knew his dut^' 
 to the pantry, and to himself, had been faithfully per- 
 formed, as also on the part of the Colonel — in short, on 
 the eating line they had worked out their passages — but 
 we exceedinglj^ regretted that he of "Absolom's locks," 
 and he of the " dentistrj- profession," had not carried out 
 their parts of the programme so well. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 Slowl}^ and cautiously we are now steaming along, as 
 the fog has thickened again, being now quite dense, and 
 we obtain but a glimpse of Pastnet Rock and Light 
 House, and then we see no more of land until 10 A. M- 
 Old Sol, who evidently is our friend, has been earn- 
 estly endeavoring to come through and show us the 
 " Emerald Isle,", suddenly breaks through, his bright 
 rays penetrating and scattering the mist and fog, which 
 lifts as a drop curtain, and there away on our left are the 
 beautiful green fields of Old Ireland, all divided and sub- 
 divided by the neat, pretty, green hedges that prevail 
 throughout all the British kingdom. 
 
 Away up some charming miniature valley we see the 
 little villages dotted here and there, while, as we 
 approach some projecting point, we see a pretty little 
 " thatched cottage by the sea," It is a truly beautiful 
 approach to land along the southern coast of Ireland, 
 where you have more of the mild scenery, in striking 
 contrast to that of the north coast of that island, which 
 is very rough, rugged and formidable, being high rock- 
 bound all the way in to Moville or the Giants' Causeway. 
 It has turned out one of the loveliest of da3'S, to which we 
 could conscientiously make but one little exception, and 
 that, a little too warm for true comfort ; the decks are 
 pileU high with portmanteaus, small trunks, large trunks, 
 young trunks, old trunks, boxes, Saratogas, chests, hand 
 satchels, traveling-bags, valises, and dear only knows 
 what a,ll ; while everything around us is bustle and 
 activity, friend chatting with newly-made friend, hopings 
 
74 Crusade to Europe 
 
 to meet again, exchanging cards, and general invitations 
 to '• be sure to come and see us," &c., are heard all 
 around ; but we do not believe one solitary individual 
 looking down at the deck of the ship that had carried us 
 safely over, and wiping away tlie feeling of dampness 
 fiom the eyes, said: "Oh, deck, must we from tliee 
 part?" " Shall I ne'er more tread thee again ? " No ! 
 but '' Get thee behind me or below me, deck ; go down to 
 stateroom 16*7 and remain there, oh, deck! and as quick 
 as possible, too." 
 
 About 1:30 P. M. we were almost at the entrance to 
 the beautiful harbor of Cork, when we saw approaching 
 us rapidl}^, a little tug, which soon came alongside, and 
 on her we embarked ; and as we left the side of the 
 steamer three cheers were given her, three loud and lust}^ 
 cheers and a " tiger" for the beautiful and pure flag, the 
 American stars and stripes, floating gracefully and beauti- 
 fully from the foremast of the " Russia,". and a genuine 
 hearty " sky-rocket " for our fellow voyagers remaining 
 on the steamer to disembark at Liverpool, which was 
 given with such a hearty good-will from thirty-eight 
 pairs of sound and solid lungs, that caused' the " red 
 coats " in the forts at the entrance to the harbor, to 
 imagine the Spanish fleet was chasing Sir Admiral 
 Drake's ghost into to where his body some j^ears before 
 had gone — at least we saw them mount their guns and 
 prepare at once for action. 
 
 As we parted company with the steamer, we found on 
 board Dr. E. T. Bricknell and a committee of Free 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 75 
 
 Masons in waiting to welcome us to the hospitalities and 
 courtesies of the fraternity, as well as to Ireland's 
 charming shores ; and anyone can imagine the feelings 
 of each and every one of us, going ashore, where but 
 one or two of the party had ever been before, and not 
 knowing a solitary soul, perhaps, anj'where on that 
 island, j^et by the strong and binding chain of universal 
 brotherhood, we were given a warm grasp of the hand, 
 which betokened us as being at once among true and 
 dear friends. 
 
 The Inman steamer " City of Richmond," was laying 
 at anclior, receiving mails and passengers, preparatory to 
 sailing for the United States, and through the courtesy 
 and kindness of custom house officials, we were allowed 
 to jump ashore and run to the post ofllce with a ton or 
 so of mail for home, and by this means of getting it on 
 board the " Richmond," we saved some three or four 
 days' time. 
 
 The custom house officials, sworn to do their duty, 
 commenced operations on our arrival at the pier, and of 
 course are not so strict in their searches as on oar side 
 of the water. Tlie first examined was the luggage of 
 one holding the highest office in the gift of Allegheny 
 Commandery, and who with " Carlisle," was booked for 
 the identical trip and room-mate on our tour. " Any 
 firearms, tobacco, spirits, or books ? " was the question 
 put to our Eminent Commander, and in liis usual 
 emphatic manner, came the honest reply, " No, sir." 
 The man from some reason or other, we presume being a 
 
76 Crusade to Europe 
 
 poor judge of human nature, took his word and chalked 
 it " passed ;" but, oh ! if he liad known what we knew, if 
 he had gone through that baggage, that contained some 
 contraband stuff of an unmentionable nature, and opened a 
 package tied up in a manner to deceive, in fact it strik- 
 ingly resembled a large pair of United States signal 
 corps field-glasses, and he could not be suspected of 
 duplicity in saying it was such a described article, in his 
 carrying two pair, for he had given " Carlisle," innocent 
 as he was of this piece of fraud, the pair to carry he was 
 presented with in New York, so that he could the better 
 carry out his scheme of smuggling. We fear we would 
 have been short an Eminent Commander, had we told all 
 we knew ; and despite the great wrong that was being- 
 done Her Britannic Majesty and her government, it was 
 the polic}^ for us to be " mum," for as stated I was his 
 room-mate, he six feet nine, I five feet five. Oh, no ; it 
 was strictly our business to keep quiet, and we always 
 like to leave other people's business entirely to them- 
 selves, and attend to our own, and in this instance partic- 
 ularly did we do it. We will say this, that the package 
 whatever it contained, remained unopened from the date 
 of leaving to that of our returning home, so that perhaps 
 my own imaginations may have probably led me adrift 
 in my conclusions, the only thing was the fact of how 
 carefully that satchel was always handled. We got 
 along all right, however, until the ofllcers came to a 
 chapeau box and some satchels, marked in bold letters, 
 " G. S. H.," which may stand foi " Great San Hedrim," 
 but at any rate these satchels were opened, and the officer 
 
OF Allegheny Commandkry. 77 
 
 in charge again put the direct question, "Any firearms, 
 spirits, tobacco, or books in your possession ? " To 
 which came, I have no question of doubt, the truthful 
 answer, " No, sir ; I have not." The officer looked 
 searchingly and curiously at the proprietor of the bag- 
 gage marked " G. S. H.," and the proprietor of the bag- 
 gage marked " G. S. H.," looked as sejj^rchingl}' and 
 curiously at him, when we all became highly interested 
 in this somewhat novel and unexplained " go-as-you- 
 please" staring match, and the question was again put 
 directly and pointedly, " Any firearms, spirits, tobacco, 
 or books in your possession, particularly tobacco?" 
 "No, sir ; I have not," came the still more decided and 
 emphatic reply. All gathered around our nonplussed Sir 
 Knight and fellow frater, looks of determination settling- 
 down upon every face — hands were being clinched, and 
 motions made towards that pocket in which some gentle- 
 men carry their handkerchiefs, and where others carry 
 something else, not strictly speaking handkerchiefs — in 
 all of which could be read the stern avowal, that if the 
 worst came to the worst, that we would just topple that 
 and all other custom house officials overboard, capture the 
 steamer, and especially the chalk, and pass any and all 
 baggage we saw fit. Before, however, resorting to such 
 violent and extreme measures, we inquired of the officer 
 what was the cause of all tliis looking, and staring, and 
 gaping between he and our friend. He replied that 
 this man, pointing to the sole proprietor of the baggage 
 marked " G. S. H.," has said " he had no dutiable goods 
 in his possession, and he feared he was endeavoring to 
 
78 Crusade to Europe 
 
 smuggle, from the fact of his having two cigars in his 
 mouth at one and the same time." After much exertion 
 we finally convinced this scrutinous and watchful officer 
 that he was laboring under a very vague and serious mis- 
 take, that he was totally in error, that what he supposed 
 to be two cigars, were only and reall}- the two ends of 
 our friend's^ waxed moustache, which by some peculiar 
 and mysterious method, have been taught to project out- 
 wardly instead of along the lip and cheek like other 
 Christian moustaches, and so with this narrow escape 
 from detention, which was our first trouble or ajmoyance 
 of anj^ kind we were permitted to depart in peace. 
 
 We neglected to mention a very gratifying little inci- 
 dent that occurred prior to our leaving the steamer 
 " Russia." About a dozen or so of us were standing up 
 about the foremast, chatting pleasantly over the ocean 
 trip, when Rev. Dr. Milligan, one of Allegheny's most 
 honored and respected clergymen, came forward. We 
 had drifted into a warm discussion on the subject of 
 liquors for medicinal purposes, for the stomach's sake, 
 &e., when Dr. Milligan paid the party a very great and 
 appreciated compliment, when he said, " Gentlemen, I 
 have crossed the Atlantic quite a number of times, and 
 have been away from home with quite a number of par- 
 ties on excursions, but it gives me the utmost pleasure to 
 say here, as I shall take frequent occasion to say on my 
 return home, that I have never seen any party where less 
 liquor was drank, and where everyone in the party was 
 so uniformly gentlemanly." Such a remark was thor- 
 oughly appreciated, and though the writer was a member 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 79 
 
 of that party, we trust his evidence will also be admitted 
 when he bears testimony to the remarks of our friend 
 Dr. Milligan. 
 
 At 2:30 P. M. we were ashore in Queenstown, a pretty 
 little town on the south side of Ireland, originally called 
 Cove, but receiving its present appellation, from the 
 visit of Her Majesty Queen Yictoria, in 1849. It is 
 situated on the side of a hill commanding a charming 
 view of the harbor we have just entered, and is frequent- 
 ed much b^^ invalids, owing to its salubrious climate. 
 There is a very handsome Protestant church and 
 Catholic cathedral here, also a very fine hotel, the 
 Queen'' s^ but as our guide, C. P. Cooper, Esq., of Dun- 
 dalk, Ireland, now has us in charge, and as we are due in 
 Cork tliat evening we cannot remain long here, so we 
 move in a body to the station near at hand ; and this 
 was attended with its little incidents too. 
 
 Immediately on landing, we were literally besieged 
 with the inevitable " Shamrock" women, these being- 
 dressed in short petticoats or gowns, wearing " mutches " 
 or white muslin and lace caps, in bare feet, with shoulder 
 shawls strapped crosswise on their bodies, and they mean 
 business " first, last and all the time." "Arrah, now, buy 
 a wee bit o' the sliamrock, dear." " Take a wee bit o' it 
 wid yez, now." " God bless yez, me darlints, and its to 
 Ireland yez are come.'' "Arrah, now, as 3^ez are just fresh 
 over, take a wee bit o' Ireland's green emblem wid yez;" 
 or " Have some o' the nice fresh gooseberries," and so on, 
 and they are like hungry leeches for holding on to you ; 
 
8o Crusade to Europe 
 
 there is no shaking them off, and 3-011 can, if you wish 
 draw down upon your head the richest blessings of heaA'en, 
 according to the manner in wliicli you draw upon 3'our 
 exchequer for the purchase " o' the shamrock," or j^ou 
 can have your " sowl " cheerfully wished, with expressive 
 and strongly qualifying adjectives, to places in which it is 
 said there is no use for linen suits, and where water is at 
 a heavy premium, by refusing to invest in any of theii 
 wares. 
 
 But, having run the gauntlet through this mob, we 
 finally arrived at the depot, and taking the 3 P. M. train, 
 are on our way to Cork, passing through a most beautiful 
 country, following the liver from the Harbor of Cork to 
 the city of the same name. The Harbor of Cork is one 
 of the largest and most commodious in the United King- 
 dom, and capable of affording shelter to the entire British 
 Navy. Of the scenery on the river, Arthur Young says, 
 that "the country on the harbor he thought preferable in 
 many respects to anything in Ireland ;" and Sir John 
 Forbes thinks " it would be difficult to over-praise the 
 beauty of the river from Queenstown to Cork, or the 
 magnificent harbor or inland bay in which it terminates, 
 more especially when these are seen under the influence 
 of a briglit sun and a brilliant sky. * * * * Indeed, 
 every element of beauty that can mingle in such a scene 
 seems to be here comprised j * * * * Water of a 
 color and purity of the sea, lofty barriers on either side, 
 covered with rich woods, and intermingled with green, 
 park-like fields and shining villas * * * And tlie whole 
 animated and, as it were, humanized, by the peopled 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 8i 
 
 steamers sweeping up and down, the boats and yachts 
 pulling about, and a ship or two at anchor in every little 
 bay that opened out upon our course." 
 
 Dr. Scott, of Queenstown, writes, that "the salubrity 
 of the climate is such that it has been chosen as a resi- 
 dence by many invalids who would otherwise have sought 
 the far-off scenes of Montpelier or Madeira, with their 
 vehement Junes, and less tempei'ate vicissitudes of 
 climate." 
 
 It is also an interesting fact to note, that the Rev. 
 Charles Wolfe, author of the incomparable lines on the 
 " Burial of Sir John Moore," beginning : 
 
 "Not a drum was heard, nor a funeral note," 
 who died in 1823, of consumption, lies interred on Great 
 Island. 
 
 We arrived in Cork at 4.10 P. M., and were driven at 
 once to the Imperial Hotel, and at this time we stumbled 
 across some of the most amusing incidents of our trip, 
 amusing for the time being, but one proved almost a 
 little annoying, as we shall see later. 
 
 As already shown, the steamer " Russia " was not 
 prolific of bath rooms, and we were by this time feeling 
 badly the need of free bath houses, or a tub of au}^ de- 
 scription, and fearing to shave on board ship, our beards 
 had become somewhat similar to a prophet's, for a warn- 
 ing to us was in the case of the Major, who was always 
 busy at the primping process, gave a steward a shilling 
 for cutting him quite a gash 'neath the chin ; a man may 
 know all about waiting on a table, but knoAv nothing of 
 shaving, as was the case in this instance. 
 
82 Crusade to Europe 
 
 The " Doctor " and " Carlisle " boldly sallied forth in 
 search of a " House of Tubs," and a barber shop, feeling- 
 somewhat as a Federal street jeweler, of Teutonic origin, 
 and a friend of ours, felt, when walking over one of the 
 bridges which form the connecting links between the two 
 cities, in company with another friend of us both. Our 
 friend incidentally remarked, " What a good institution 
 these free bath houses were," pointing to one laying on the 
 'wharf on the Pittsburgh side, " that they were so good for 
 the poor and working man, coming home from his hard 
 iioil, besmeared with dirt and smoke, to step in and take a 
 'bath in the evening," which brought from our jeweler the 
 somewhat astonishing and amusing reply, " Path ! Path ! 
 I not path me for seventeen 3' ears!" and we felt a little 
 that way ourselves, though not quite so bad in years of 
 lack of ablutions. 
 
 Passing along one of the principal streets, we could 
 ■see no red and white and variegated barber poles or 
 boxes, but finally observed a sign " Thomas Moriarty, 
 Hair Dresser and Perfumer to His Royal Highness the 
 Prince of Wales." Now in democratic America, we are 
 not prone to run after and knuckle at the shrine of "blue 
 blood," &c., still, when we read that sign, its length, its 
 breadth, its meaning, our hearts fluttered a little, and we 
 said, "Ah ! has it come to this ? Are we poor American 
 Sovereigns to sit in a chair where, perhaps, has been 
 seated the heir apparent to the British throne, (may be ?)" 
 and, gladdened by this thought, led away by vanity, 
 thinking we had stolen a long march on the remainder of 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 83 
 
 the party, we wandered into this man Moriarty's, to sit 
 in this seat, if only that, and have our faces lathered by 
 the same brush, our faces shaved by the same razor, our 
 moustaches pomaded with the same stick, our hair pasted 
 and brushed a la H. R. H. P. of W., and with fear and 
 trembling we ventured in, fearing that august personage, 
 H. R. H. P. of W., might be there then, and we, by no 
 means, in full court dress. 
 
 We found a room about four feet by nine, a long 
 bench, at the side of which was a table with a very large 
 and elegant mirror three inches by five ; on the table lay 
 a piece of kitchen soap about the size and thickness of a 
 silver half dollar, an old strop, and a tin cup for lather ; 
 on a little bench on the other side of the room were a 
 shoemaker's hammer, a brad-awl, a chisel, a watchmaker's 
 implement, a blacksmith's tools, and I don't know what 
 else. In this room sat a little old woman, a " mutch " on 
 her head, and puffing away at a "cutty" pipe. We 
 inquired for the barber and were informed "he had just 
 stepped over the way to get a drink." We ventured 
 forth much more boldly than we ventured in, with our 
 minds fully made up that H. R. H. P. of W. could 
 monopolize the whole of that hair dressing and perfum- 
 ing establishment, so far as we were concerned. We did 
 not care of partaking in any of it ; we would rather go 
 back to Pittsburgh with beards trailing on the ground as 
 they were now almost doing, than have a man go at us 
 with a brad-awl, ft chisel, a mallet, and watchmaker's 
 pinchers. 
 
84 Crusade to Europe 
 
 "If at first you don't succeed, then try, try again." 
 Remembering this school-boy motto, we tried again, and 
 finally succeeded in finding a shop at last, where they 
 backed our heads up against the wall, and gave us in the 
 language of the " Post,^' our good Democratic newspaper 
 friend of Pittsburgh, an " alleged " shave. " Alleged " 
 is good, it has let us out many times for a libel suit. 
 
 Here again our friend, he of the curious moustache, 
 was in a serious squabble with the barber, each doubting 
 the other's veracity, for we arrived there just in time to 
 hear the tonsorial artist requesting the proprietor of the 
 baggage mar]\;ed Gr. S. H. to remove those toothpicks, as 
 he possibly could not shave a man having a mouthful of 
 toothpicks, and it was again necessary for us to pledge 
 our words that he was telling the truth, the whole truth, 
 and nothing but the truth, when insisting they were not 
 toothpicks but were only the ends of his unchristianlike 
 moustache . 
 
 After being scraped, for we could call it nothing- 
 else, we went in quest of a printer's office, having a little 
 work to be done, and, stepping into one — a Mr. Ache- 
 son's, on Greorge street — showed a sample of what we 
 wanted ; he politely informed us he could not do it, that 
 he had not the facilities, but, putting on his hat, leaving 
 a customer, his business and his store in charge of his 
 little daughter, eight to ten years of age, said he could 
 show us where we could and did have our work done. 
 From the copy we had shown him, he discovered we 
 belonged to the party of visiting Sir Knights to Ireland, 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 85 
 
 and on our way to the printer's, in true, genuine Irisli- 
 man style, not, as in this countrj^, from the love ol 
 drink, but out of kindly feeling, and a kind heart, he 
 insisted on our going in and "taking something," but 
 owing to our being absolutely and strictly temperate, 
 we were obliged to decline with thanks. 
 
 We found the printer, gave him our order, asked 
 him when it would be done, and he said in about a week. 
 We told him we left the city on the following day at 
 2:30, and would want it by 12 o'clock. We told him in 
 America the circuses, theatres, combinations, &c., when 
 traveling, just gave their orders for several thousand 
 posters and programmes, and by the time the troupe 
 had finished their dinners the printer had his work in 
 the cars, his bill receipted, and looking for another job. 
 We take the credit of stirring up those good people of 
 Cork, and having had done the quickest piece of 
 " comp." ever performed in that good city. 
 
 Returning to the hotel, it was now a little late — 6:45 
 P. M., and Table d'Hote was at 6:15 sharp — but owing 
 to our delays we were unable to reach the hotel sooner, 
 and here we had a funny experience. Feeling fresh 
 from our bath and " wash-up," we walked lightly and 
 briskly up to the Coffee Room, as they call their dining- 
 rooms, and were about to enter the door, seeing all our 
 party comfortably seated there, our teeth watered for 
 some of the good things borne by the table; and having 
 had nothing to eat since leaving the "Russia," we do 
 not put it too strongly when we say we were desperately 
 
86 Crusade to Europe 
 
 hungry, but just as we were about to enter, a portly 
 " Chief Butler " with a pair of indispensable black trou- 
 serloons, low cut black vest with coral buttons, spike- 
 tail coat, moustache and goatee black as crows, and 
 faultlessly waxed, hair curled up, excelling in that 
 regard, we fear, even our own Absalom, the Major's 
 raven hair, the admiration of all our part}^ This " Chief 
 Butler," who is always a better man than the proprietor^ 
 came at us with, we are not sure whether it was a fly- 
 brush or a young table cloth, and endeavored to "shoo" 
 us out of the door; and there he stood, to our amaze- 
 ment, his arras extended and flapping like a victorious 
 barnyard fowl, crying, " Shoo ! Shoo ! ! Shoo ! ! ! " 
 "Can't get dinner here now, Shoo! Shoo!! Shoo!!!" 
 But we struck an attitude, knowing full well the eyes 
 of the multitude were upon us, as they sat around the 
 richly laden table, enjoying, we may very vulgarly say, 
 piggishly, the good things of this life and our misfortune 
 and predicament-, while the Colonel deliberately and 
 tauntingly held aloft the " walker " of a fowl, which 
 goaded us to despair. When we struck the afore-men- 
 tioned attitude, the " Chief Butler " sobered down a 
 little, but was still somewhat excited, crying " Three 
 causes over — soup, fish and chops all done ! " " You 
 will haA^e to go down stairs and get your dinner." We 
 looked him defiantly in the face, told him not to whisper, 
 not to say another word ; we wanted to know if he knew 
 what our stomachs wanted before he had seen us ; that 
 neither of us so far had asked him for any soup, fish 
 or chops, and that if anyone had told him we did, he 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 87 
 
 had informed him of what was a base fabrication and 
 perversion of the trutli ; that we would not eat soup if 
 it was put down before us in vats, that we never ate 
 cliops under any consideration, and as for fish, we simply 
 abhori'ed it; that for others, we cared not what they might 
 do, but as for us, give us just a good piece of beef and 
 potatoes, or give us death just at that time. All-4his, 
 we will now state, was a deliberate falsehood to His Royal 
 Highness, the " Chief Butler," for inwardly we felt we 
 would have given half our wealth for a good dish of each 
 of the above-mentioned articles of food, but we could 
 not possibly allow H. R. H., C. B. to make away with us 
 in that manner, especially on the last thirty or forty 
 courses of dinner, to sacrifice three at the first. Oh ! but 
 he was mad ; blood was on the fac6, not of the moon, but 
 of H. R. H., the C. B. But we made our point, and were 
 soon as busily engaged as those who had simplj^ gone 
 before, and we were permitted to finish our repast in 
 peace. 
 
 At 8 P. M. this Friday evening, a committee called 
 and escorted us to their Masonic rooms, where we visited 
 Lodge of Ireland No. 1, the oldest Free Mason Lodge 
 in Ireland, their Masonic charter being given them in 
 1T31, making them at the time of our visit almost one 
 hundred and fifty years old. They have some intensely 
 interesting relics and antiquities ; for instance, they have 
 a bible on their table printed in the year 1526, and many 
 ancient letters, demits and documents, coming down from 
 age after age of ancestry to their present membership. 
 They have also a very handsome portrait, done in oil, of 
 
88 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Lady Aldsworth, the onl}^ woman Mason the world ever 
 knew, and it might be interesting to know how she came 
 to be made a member of tlie craft, which we take from a 
 little pamphlet entitled, "Memoirs of the Life of the 
 Hon. Mrs. Aldsworth, the only female who ever obtained 
 the honor of initiation in the sublime m^'steries of Free- 
 masonry ;" a little work which was printed and prepared 
 for onr fellow Crusaders of '71. 
 
 " The Hon. Mrs. Aldsworth was second daughter of 
 Arthur St. Leger, Lord Y. Doneraile and Baron Kil- 
 meaden, by Eliza Hayes, daughter of John Hayes of 
 Winchelsea, in the count}^ of Sussex, Esq., * * * 
 The family is very ancient and honorable. Her ancestor, 
 Sir Anthony St. Leger, of the county of Kent, Knight 
 of the Garter, ' unus nobilium secretiorist Gaviaroe Begis,^ 
 succeeded Sir William Brereton as Lord Deputy of Ire- 
 land, in the reign of Henrj^ YIII, and was sworn July 
 25th, 1540, at Christ Church, Dublin, in the form follow- 
 ing, and was five times Lord Deputy or Lieutenaut dur- 
 ing that and the succeeding reigns, and died in the reign 
 of Queen Mary, March 12th, 1559, at Ulcomb, in Kent, 
 the ancient seat of the family : 
 
 " You shall swear that you shall faithfullj^ and truly 
 to your power, serve our Sovereign Lord, the King's 
 Majestic, in the room and authority of Lord Deputy and 
 Chief Governor of this his realm of Ireland, you shall 
 maintain and defend the laws of God and the Christian 
 faith. You shall to your power, not only keep his 
 Msjestie's peace amongst his people, but also maintain 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 89 
 
 his officers and ministers in tlie execution and adminis- 
 tration of justice. You sliall defend liis Majestie's cas- 
 tles, garrisons, dominions, people and subjects of this 
 realm, and repress his rebels and enemies. You shall 
 not consent to the damage and disherizen of his Majesty, 
 his heirs or successors ; neither shall you suffer the right 
 of the crown to be destroj^ed in any way, but shall let it 
 to 3'our power; and if you cannot let the same, you shall 
 certifie his Majesty clearly and expressly thereof. You 
 shall give 3'our true and faithful council for the King's 
 Majestie's profit, and his Highness' council you shall con- 
 ceal and keep ; all other things for the preservation of 
 his Majestie's realm of Ireland, the peace amongst his 
 people, the execution of his justice, according to his 
 Majestie's laws, usages and customs, of this his High- 
 ness' realm, you shall perform and do your power * * * 
 ^^ Council of Trent, Folio 392. | Borlaoe." 
 
 Eliza Hayes, the subject of this sketch, was married 
 to Richard Aldsworth, of Newmarket, in the count^^ of 
 Cork, of a highly respected and ancient family, long- 
 celebrated for their hospitalities and other virtues, and 
 now deriving additional honor from this lady's liaving 
 been the only female who was ever initiated in the 
 ancient and honorable mysteries of Free Masonry. * * 
 She was a w'oman of model virtue, sweetened and adorned 
 by all the amiable qualities that grace and dignif3'^ the 
 female character. 
 
 Lord Doneraile, Mrs. Aldsworth's father, who was a 
 very zealous Mason, held a warrant in his own hands, 
 
90 Crusade to Europe 
 
 and occasionally opened Lodge at Doneraile House, his 
 sons and some intimate friends in the neighborhood as- 
 sisting ; and, it is said, never were the Masonic duties 
 more rigidly performed, or the business of the Craft more 
 sincerely pursued, than by the brethren of No. 150, the 
 number of their warrant. 
 
 It appears that previous to the initiation of a gentle- 
 man to the first steps in Freemasonry, Mrs. Aldsworth, 
 who was then a young girl, happened to be in an apart- 
 ment adjoining the room usually used as a lodge room, 
 this room at the time undergoing some repair and altera- 
 tion ; amongst other things, the wall was considerably 
 reduced in one part for the purpose of making a saloon. 
 The young lady having distinctly heard voices, and 
 prompted by the curiosity natural to all to see somewhat 
 of this mystery, so long and so secretly locked up from 
 public view, she had the courage, with her scissors, to 
 pick a brick from the wall, and actually witnessed the 
 awful and mysterious ceremony through the two first 
 steps. Curiosity gratified, fear at once took possession of 
 her mind, and those who understand this passage well 
 know what the feelings must be of any person who could 
 have the same opportunity of unlawfully beholding that 
 ceremon3^ Let them then judge what must be the feel- 
 ings of a 3'Oung girl. She saw no mode of escape, but 
 through the very room where the concluding part of the 
 second step was still performing, and that being at the 
 far end, and the room a very large one. She had again 
 resolution sufficient to attempt her escape that way, and 
 with light but trembling step, and almost suspended 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 91 
 
 breath, she glided along unobserved by the lodge, laid 
 her hand on the handle, and softly opening the door,, 
 before her stood a grim and surly Tyler, with his long 
 rusty sword. Her shriek alarmed the lodge, who all 
 rushed to the door, and on finding out from the Tyler 
 that she had been in the room during all the ceremony^ 
 in the first paroxysm of rage, it is said, her death was 
 resolved on, but that from the moving and earnest suppli-^ 
 cations of her youngest brother her life was spared, on 
 condition of her going through the two steps she had 
 already seen. This was agreed to, and they conducted 
 the young, beautiful and terrified creature through those 
 trials which are sometimes more than enough for mascu- 
 line resolution, little thinking they were taking into the 
 bosom of their Craft a member that would afterwards- 
 reflect a lustre on the annals of Masonr3^ 
 
 Mrs. Aldsworth is said not to have possessed that con- 
 struction of countenance which ma}' claim the appellation 
 of very beautiful, but a certain air of dignity to which 
 the benevolence of her heart and sweetness of her natural 
 disposition, more than compensated the deficiency. 
 
 It was a countenance that gave encouragement to the 
 unfortunate to put in their petitions, and assurances that 
 their distress would be alleviated. Having, however, ob- 
 tained the foregoing particulars from persons who only 
 knew this lady in the last years of her life, what she 
 might have been in her youth we can only obtain from 
 her portrait, which, though taken at an advanced period, 
 still retains, if not the semblance of beauty, the traita 
 
92 Crusade to Europe 
 
 and lineaments of a fine countenance, only a little shaken 
 and defaced by time. Though the memory of Mrs. Aids- 
 worth's beauty ma}^ have passed away, which, in a long 
 life of eighty years is no improbable conjecture, and 
 though the bloom and charms of the young St. Leger 
 may be sought for in the countenance of our benevolent 
 sister, the almost divine character which it pleased heaven 
 to stamp upon her uncommon mind, has left so many 
 memorials behind, that to doubt this part of her history 
 must be blind incredulity- The truth is, her heart and, 
 hand, ever open to the sufferings and to the claims of 
 sorrow and distress, almost prevented supplication by 
 their promptitude to relieve, nor let it be supposed this 
 spirit of beneficence circumscribed a circle around its 
 action, or confined its influence ; no, for though her 
 brethren in distress had the first claims on her liberality, 
 it was not the less open or less bountiful to the unen- 
 lightened. Best of women ; mother to the motherless, 
 friend to the friendless, benignant and generous soul, 
 who from the bosom of affluence did'st hear the wretches' 
 cry, and would fly from the table of comfort to bear com- 
 fort to the hovel of wretchedness, and wipe the unobtru- 
 sive tear from the eye of retired misery. 
 
 In the active gratification of her hospitable and be- 
 nevolent heart, she did not, however, neglect altogether 
 the duties of the Craft. She was, (as far as she went,) a 
 most exemplary member and Mason, and has presided as 
 Master of her lodge, which she headed frequentl}'^ in 
 Masonic order of procession, and it was her custom on 
 
OF Allegheny Commanuery. 93 
 
 tliose occasions to precede the lodge in an open phseton. 
 * * * * One circumstance, before we conclude, de- 
 serves notice, as it is a handsome lesson to those wlio 
 boast the superiority of manly discretion and understand- 
 ing, and yet err in this particular, Mrs. A. had such a 
 veneration for Masonry that she would never suffer it to 
 be lightly spoken of in her hearing, nor would she touch 
 on the subject but with the greatest caution in company 
 even with her most intimate friends whom she did not 
 know to be Masons, and when she did it was under evi- 
 dent embarrassment, and a trembling apprehension lest 
 she may in a moment of inadvertence commit a breach of 
 Masonic duty. . Thus lived this pattern of female excel- 
 lence, we had almost said human perfection, dispensing 
 like a principle of good, comfort and happiness to all 
 around her, till He that gave thought proper to call her 
 away to participate in the joys of His eternal kingdom. 
 Her death, it is said, was occasioned by the imprudent 
 use of laudanum in a slight indisposition. We cannot con- 
 clude this sketch better than by giving a paragraph which 
 appeared in a print of the day, on occasion of her death : 
 
 " On Monday last, died at ISTewmarket, in this county, 
 the Hon. Mrs. Aldsworth, the wife of Richard Aldsworth, 
 Esq., M. P. She lived to the age of eighty, and such 
 were the effects of her early education under the good 
 Lord Doneraile, her father, and her own happy disposi- 
 tion, that from her infancy there passed not a day which 
 might not have been distinguished by some one act of 
 her benevolence or charity. She lived for the most part 
 
94 Crusade to Europe 
 
 of her time in the countiy in the midst of her tenants, 
 to wliom her house afforded the most cheerful liospitality. 
 The meanest of them wlien tlieir wants required it, had 
 access to her, and when the indigent or sick called upon 
 her she never failed to dispense her favors with that 
 bounty and humanity which a large fortune enabled her, 
 and a still larger soul induced her to bestow. Indeed, 
 heaven seemed to have appointed her guardian of the 
 poor, whom she relieved without ostentation. She pos- 
 sessed the fairest sentiments of religion, and as if the 
 manner of her death was rheant as an anticipation of 
 that happiness which awaited her, she spent in slumber 
 her last hours, those hours so very dreadful in the gen- 
 eral, without the least pain or opposition, her mind quite 
 disengaged from the world in which she did her own 
 duty, whilst the tears and lamentations of thousands 
 about her expressed their feelings for their kind benefac- 
 
 ■|"VpQG " ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ '•' 
 
 Having spent considerable time in examination of the 
 relics and antiquities which were carefully explained to 
 us by our brethren of No. 1, T. C. Cooper, the Provin- 
 cial Deputy Grand Master, was called to the chair, and 
 the evening was spent in song, speeches, &c., indulged in 
 by Major William C. Moreland, Col. McConihe, Lee S. 
 Smith, and others, and thus was another evening happily 
 and pleasantly passed with those who to us now are 
 friends, while but a few hours before were perfect and 
 entire strangers. 
 
 About 10:30 P. M. we returned to our hotel and 
 enjoyed the witnessing of the sleeping scenes of Lady 
 
OK Allegheny Commandery. 95 
 
 Macbeth carried out in simon-pure theatrical style. It 
 certainly recalled that scene most vividly to see tlie 
 
 stately Mrs. M and Mrs. F , of Philadelphia, 
 
 wending their way heavenward per stairway, Mr. §■ 
 
 and his bride turning the corner of a hall, and our patri- 
 archal prelate Professor S of Allegheny, his good 
 
 wife leaning tenderly on his stout arm, while the less 
 liappy single gentlemen , and for the time being widowers, 
 climbing stairs, wandering around corridors, each with a 
 brazen candlestick and sperm candle, looking for No. 68 
 or No. 10, etc. Oh! how sweet our first sleep on teira 
 firma again; our first impression, however, on entering 
 our rooms was that perhaps the genial and jovial friends 
 from whom we had just parted, had not only treated us 
 hospitably but convivially, for the bed, dressing-case, 
 washstand, seemed to be on a general spiritualistic move, 
 while the floor had every appearance of being movable, 
 for we had not yet accustomed ourselves to tlie steadiness 
 of things built on the substantial after passing through 
 the nine days of rolling we had just endured. In the 
 morning the " Quartette ' ' was awake with the lark and 
 into a jaunting car, and "doing" the far-famed cit}'^ 01 
 Cork. 
 
 Cork is a city of some eighty thousand inhabitants, 
 and is generally termed the capital of the south ; is a 
 corporate city, governed by a mayor, sixteen aldermen 
 and forty-eight counsellors, and a stafl" of paid oflftcials. 
 It is the third city in Ireland in importance and pop- 
 ulation, Dublin and Belfast alone ranking it. We 
 
go Crusade to Europe 
 
 visited Patrick's Bridge, Parliament Bridge, and in St. 
 Patrick's street is a handsome statue of Fatlier Mat- 
 thew, the Apostle of Temperance. The Custom Housey 
 which is a handsome building, occupies a tongue of 
 land where the two streams of the city meet at a some- 
 what acute angle on the eastern side of the city. 
 
 A tract of 240 acres of land has been recovered from 
 the river, and laid out as a park, whei-e are held annual 
 races Avhich are largely attended. The most important 
 literary and scientific institutions are : The Queen's 
 College, opened in 1849, which occupies a picturesque 
 site on a rock rising fully forty feet above the level 
 of the southern branch of the River Lee. The College 
 is open to all religious sects ; it has eighteen professors 
 teaching languages, sciences, including Greek, Latin and 
 the modern tongues, medicine, surgery, natural historj^, 
 botany, geology, mathematics and chemistry ; besides 
 classes for engineering, political economy and law. The 
 Royal Cork Institution, incorporated in ISOY.with a view 
 mainly to the advancement of agriculture. The Mechan- 
 ics Listitute, agricultural, horticultural and an art union. 
 There are two theatres, and barracks for cavalry and 
 infantry. Substantial quays of cut stone for the ship- 
 ping, are worthy a visit, when it is known that over 
 £300,000 have been expended upon improvements con- 
 nected with the river ; and when this amount of £300,000 
 is mentioned, or one million and a half of American dol- 
 lars, just contemplate how miserly and niggardly they 
 all are over there in that poor country, when we think 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 97 
 
 of all of $10,000 appropriated by our supremely wise 
 American Congress for the improvement of our beau- 
 tiful stream — the Allegheny. Just think of it ! Such 
 enormous and reckless extravagance on the part of our 
 all-wise law makers will ruin any weak or strong gov- 
 ernment ever conceived of. 
 
 A very flourishing trade is carried on in Cork, the 
 imports consisting of timber chiefly, and the exporting 
 of grain, live stock, provisions and linen. The regis- 
 tered shipping of this city is about 40,000 tons, sailing 
 vessels and steamers. The walls of Cork were built by the 
 Danes, in the ninth century, and it derived its name 
 from the Irish eorroch or corcagh, a swamp, was given 
 to it in allusion to the original character of its site. 
 
 The Union Workhouse, the largest in the country, 
 was opened for paupers in 1840 ; the inmates work at 
 tailoring, weaving and other trades, and a large corn- 
 mill is attached which is worked by the paupers. 
 
 After a drive through the Grand Parade, South 
 Mall, Great George's street, Mardyke, and the famous 
 " Broad Lane," not a dozen feet wide, we returned to 
 the hotel for breakfast. 
 
 At 10 A. M., the entire party were seated in large 
 wagonettes and jaunting cars, prepared for the drive 
 to Blarney Castle, famous the world over. It is a lovely 
 drive of some eight miles, along a most beautiful road, 
 and passing through a most charming country, while 
 at many points en route some unusually fine landscape 
 views are to be had. On our arrival at the Castle, the 
 
 G 
 
gS Crusade to Europe 
 
 first procedure was the climbing of tlie seemingly inter- 
 minable steps, up one hundred and twenty feet high, in 
 search of the stone, to which old Father Prout alludes 
 thusly : 
 
 " There is a stone there, 
 That whoever kisses, 
 Oil ! he never misses. 
 
 To grow eloquent. 
 'Tis he may clamber 
 To a lady's chamber. 
 Or become a member 
 Of Parliament. 
 
 Or, as he puts it again : 
 
 "A clever spouter, 
 He'll sure turn out, or 
 An out and outer 
 
 To be let alone ! 
 Don't hope to hinder him. 
 Or to bewilder him, 
 Sure he's a pilgrim 
 
 From the Blarney Stone." 
 
 The Castle was built in the fifteenth century, built 
 by Cormick MacOarty, in 1449. It stands on the side 
 of a precipitous ledge of limestone rock, rising from a 
 deep valle^^, and part of its base is washed by a small 
 river called the Aw-Martin. There remains now of the 
 original fortress only a square, massive tower, with 
 a parapet breast high, and, of course, in the most dan- 
 gerous looking place in the whole business. On the 
 summit is this stone, which is said to confer on the 
 persons kissing it the peculiar property of saying any- 
 thing coaxing or complimentary or praise most agreeable 
 to the hearer. Only for our being the head of a family, 
 
OF ALLEGHENY COMMANDERY. 
 
 99 
 
 we would mildly suggest that this is our early mar- 
 riage. Every one going to Blarney Castle always kisses 
 the " real stone," and, of course, we want it distinctly 
 understood we kissed the " real stone," the " rale stone " 
 sure. The Major and Colonel would not attempt it, in 
 fact we believe the Doctor and "Carlisle " were the only 
 two who ventured the feat. Empt3dng our pockets of 
 our '• Bank of Englands," we were solemnly held over 
 by the heels, and performed the nonsensical operation, 
 and as we looked down through the aperture, one hun- 
 dred and twenty feet high, to kiss this stone to which 
 is ascribed the power of giving jon all the " blarney" 
 you can. very comfortably carry, we thought of our 
 illustrious predecessors of "71, and of the portl}^ figures 
 the pilgrim party of that year had with them, and we 
 wondered and pondered how they ever, and how many 
 of them, held out our friend Sir Edward M. Jenkins, 
 or how they ever escaped permitting another friend, Sir 
 James A. Sholes, from slipping through their fingers, 
 and I know it must have been an efi"ort of no mean 
 order to hold even our genial friend A. M. Rambo, Esq., 
 from measuring the distance to the ground below, by 
 as many times the length of his body multiplied by the 
 time taken in falling, deducting the pi'essure on the air 
 as he compressed it in his momentum. We all knew 
 our venerable prelate had been at it before, and lie did 
 not try it again. Blarney Lake is a sweet little piece 
 of water, distant about a quarter of a mile from the 
 Castle. A tradition remains that at certain seasons a 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 herd of white cows rises from the bosom of the Lake 
 to graze among the rich pasture whicli clothes its banks. 
 Another storyjs, " tliat the Earl of Clancart}^, who for- 
 feited the Castle at the Revolution, cast all his plate 
 into a certain part ;. that three of the McCarthy's inherit 
 the secret of the place where they are deposited, any 
 one of whom dying communicates it to another member 
 of the family, and thus perpetuates the secret, which is. 
 never to be revealed until a McCarthy be again Lord 
 of Blarney." For traditions, for stories, for tales and 
 yarns, before which far western snake and Indian stories 
 would pale, and are the frozen truth in comparison, 
 commend us to these good people in Ireland. 
 
 Then here are the beautiful " Groves of Blarney," 
 to which is ascribed the following quotation of a song 
 found in Mr. Crofton Croker's " Popular Songs of Ire- 
 land : " . 
 
 " The Groves of Blarney, 
 They look so charming, 
 Down by the purling 
 
 Of sweet silent streams. 
 Being banked with posies 
 That spontaneous grow there. 
 Planted in order 
 
 By the sweet rock close." 
 
 " 'Tis there's the daisy, 
 And the sweet carnation, 
 The blooming pink. 
 
 And the rose so fair; 
 The daffodowndilly, 
 Likewise the lily. 
 All flowers that scent 
 
 The sweet fragrant air." 
 
OF Allegheny Commanuery. 
 
 Having spent a few hours tlius at the Castle, buy- 
 ing armload after armload of the genuine bogwood, sold 
 at the Castle gate, we take our conveyances and return 
 to the city, and here again our Masonic friends had a 
 treat in store for us. Notwithstanding the fact the 
 famous Shandon Church was closed for repairs, they 
 had it opened for our inspection. The Church is a 
 plain grotesque looking edifice, with a steeple resem- 
 bling a number of stories. It was begun in 1T22, and 
 Crofton Croker informs us "that its steeple was con- 
 structed of hewn stone from the Franciscan Abbey, 
 where James II. heard mass, and from the ruins of 
 Lord Barry's Castle, which had been the official resi- 
 dence of the lords president of Munster, and from 
 whence this quarter of the city takes its name Shandon 
 or Seandun, signifying, in Irish, the old fort or castle." 
 Its height is one hundred and twenty feet, and in this 
 steeple are those Shandon Bells, of which Rev. Father 
 Mahoney says this, in two stanzas from his song : 
 
 " With deep affection 
 And recollection, 
 I often think on 
 
 •Those Shandon Bells, 
 Whose sound so mild would 
 In the days of childhood, 
 Fling round my cradle 
 
 Their magic spells." 
 
 " I have heard bells chiming 
 Full many a clime in. 
 Tolling sublime in 
 Cathedral shrine ; 
 
Crusade lo Europe 
 
 While at a glib rate 
 
 Brass tongues would vibrate, 
 
 But all their music 
 
 Spoke nought like thine." 
 
 We heard those sweet Shandon Bells, and never 
 will, we forget the emotions with which we were filled, 
 as on that day they rang out " Caller Herrin," "Amer- 
 ica," " The Last Rose of Summer," " The Old Folks at 
 Home," '' Home, Sweet Home," and how, as they sang 
 out with their iron tongues in sweet melody, those old 
 and dear familiar airs, we were carried away thousands 
 of miles across land and water to the '• Smoky City," 
 nestling amidst her bleak and barren hills. 
 
 But our time is growing short, we cannot remain 
 longer here, much as were wont to do, so we returned to 
 the Imperial, where our Royal Highness, the Chief But- 
 ler, has a nice lunch in waiting for us, of which we 
 partake heartily, and are again seated in our coaches, 
 ready again for the road. At the moment of our de- 
 parture, our newly made friend of the day preceding, 
 Mr. AchesoUj came round to the hotel with a large 
 paper containing the most beautiful and fragrant rose- 
 buds of all varieties and colors, and a package of sweet 
 smelling verbena, for a button-hole bouquet for each of 
 the party, which were duly appreciated. And here the 
 thought struck us forciblj^; here we were, strangers in 
 a sti'ange land, not one of us knowing a single, solitary 
 soul, yet even before putting a foot ashore we were 
 among firm, fast friends, whose every shake of the 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 band betokened friendship, kindness and brotherly love ; 
 and there is one thing of which can be said of Amer- 
 icans, as of Scotchmen and Irishmen, for our good 
 friends' benefit on tlie other side of the water, and 
 that is, they never forget, and we but await the op- 
 portunity of carrying out literally the golden rule of 
 " doing unto them as they did unto us.'' 
 
 A little fact, or rather incident, we neglected to men- 
 tion earlier in this letter, illustrative of how stories carry 
 and are perverted and twisted until the original becomes 
 unrecognizable, was, we were informed of the terrible 
 Fourth of July disaster, which happened to the Sunday 
 School pic-nic being held in one of the groves adjacent 
 to Allegheny City, when that fatal storm of wind, 
 lightning and blew down trees, &c., killing a number 
 of persons, but the version we heard was that the 
 entire lower portion of Allegheny City was consumed 
 by fire, that houses had been blown down, and persons 
 numbering hundreds had been killed and wounded, hund- 
 reds of thousands of dollars worth of propert}^ destroyed; 
 and we can assure the reader, being so far away from 
 home, with intelligence such as that, the " Crusade,'' 
 until more definite intelligence from home would arrive, 
 would be a YQvy tame and mild affair. 
 
 Through, the kindness of the Cork Constitution, the 
 live newspaper of that city, we were permitted to go 
 over its file, but could find nothing concerning it. 
 The Colonel, whose home was in the vicinity of that 
 honorable gentleman, Mr. Brigham Young, and the 
 
I04 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Major, whose residence was safe in the region of 
 Nicholson block and locust post pavements in tlie 
 City of Pittsburgh, were selfishly asleep in their rooms, 
 while the poor Doctor and " Carlisle " spent a large 
 portion of the night examining newspapers, and we 
 conscientiously believe the two former mentioned gen- 
 tlemen were laughing at us for doing so, and would 
 have been pleased had the Doctor and " Carlisle " been 
 burned out of house and home, and been to-day star- 
 ring the country out of the states enforcing the Tramp 
 Act, as the " Two Orphans.'' 
 
 At 2:30 P. M., we take the train for Killarney, 
 passing through Bandon, Enniskean, Dunmanway, Ban- 
 try, Glengariff and Kenmare, and arriving at Killarney 
 at 5:30 P. M. 
 
 ^^ 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. . 105 
 
 The Pilgrims at Killarney. — One of the Gems of Irish 
 Scenery.— Amusing' Scenes in Genuine Irish Life. — 
 A Pleasant Ride Through the Gap of Dunloe and 
 on the Lakes.— Incidents by the "Way. 
 
 (^j^O conception can be formed of the appetites we 
 " poor and weary pilgrims traveling from afar" 
 had on our arrival at Killarney, for we were 
 hourlj^ being benefited by our ocean trip, and with the 
 crisp, bracing air of Ireland, as with a fast growing- 
 child, we could almost in the same manner see each 
 other growing fat, and it would have been a very im- 
 material matter to us whether we met a man with one 
 *' shillelah " or a dozen at that moment, for we had 
 been informed that Killarney was the place to have a 
 glimpse of real Irish life, in all of its original phases. 
 Shortly after our arrival, however, we filed into the 
 large and handsome dining room of the Railway Hotel, 
 where we seated ourselves and fared sumptuously of a 
 magnificent dinner, composed of all the good things of 
 this life, and they even had many delicacies and luxu- 
 ries in the shape of fruits, &c., many of which are 
 foreign to Britain, and a rarit}^ 
 
 After dinner, on one of the loveliest of lovely 
 eveninos. we took a stroll down throuo-h this famous 
 
io6 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Ifish town of Killarney, and, situated as this little town 
 is, surrounded by towering hills, we were privileged in 
 seeing one of the most gorgeous sunsets we had ever 
 beheld. The sun had almost run his course for that 
 day, and was just goiug down behind the " Purple 
 Mountain," his golden rays spreading and shedding the 
 beautiful light all over the heavens, and tinging the 
 light and fleec^^ clouds with a richness such as is sel- 
 dom seen. Now and then, as we were walking onward, 
 a little opening in the foliage of the trees revealed to 
 us the pretty, calm, and still Lakes we had come to 
 see ; but we are now out to see simply the town, and, 
 if possible, to observe the quality and character of its 
 inhabitants, and, as we have already said, for a sight of 
 real Irish life, commend us unhesitatingly to Killarney. 
 
 As the " Quartette " passed down and along the nar- 
 row and winding streets, each of us enjoying a fragrant 
 Havana, (the Posf''s word again — alleged Havana,) we 
 were followed and literally besieged by every little urchin 
 in the place. We are prone to believe, and we certainly 
 would have been taken for a walking side-show had we 
 been seen in our own country, surrounded as we were by 
 anywhere from forty to one hundred dirty-faced, bare- 
 footed gamins, who seeing us smoking, yelled like a band 
 of Ute Indians, " Sa}", raisther; give's the stump?" 
 " Jump the ditch for the stump, misther !" The crowd 
 represented children and youth of all ages from the 
 little bits of tads four or five years of age, to full-fledged 
 boys of twelve, fourteen and sixteen ; and no sooner had 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. • 107 
 
 the exhausted end of our cigars left our hands, no matter 
 where falling in the street, than would be seen one of the 
 following, howling mob, puffing and drawing for dear life 
 ^t the very small remainder of our original smoke. 
 
 As is the custom in the smaller and even the larger, 
 but particularly the smaller towns throughout the king- 
 dom, the work of the week being ended, the whole town 
 turns out on Saturday nights ; consequently may be seen 
 at almost every step little knots of people, men and 
 women, and as a general rule the '' whuskey " flies. We 
 see among the groups an old gray-haired man whose 
 hairs attest the frosts of seventy years, wearing the half- 
 high silk hat, a dark check shirt, black silk cravat tied in 
 a big heavy knot, the swallow-tailed coat with gilt or brass 
 buttons, from the pocket of the coat hangs the indispens- 
 able red Bandana handkerchief, a black low-cut waistcoat, 
 corduroy knee pants, blue ribbed stockings — home made, 
 and hob-nail boots or shoes ; and we see this old man, 
 diving his head into the person to whom he is talking, or 
 " steadying up " as he inclines backwards, sideways or 
 forward. 
 
 Again, and very probably in the same group, we see 
 the younger man of the more modern period, having on 
 the Christian cut of pantaloons, swaggering backwards 
 and forward, and apparently most fearfully weak at the 
 knees. Again we see the beardless youth, with a "cutty" 
 pipe in his mouth, probably the pipe turned upside down, 
 and the smoker, in short, as drunk as a loon ; and even 
 in all these motley assemblages may be seen the "gentler'' 
 
io8 Crusade to ^^urope 
 
 sex, (still we had no desire of tackling any of the female 
 gender, for they looked more powerful than the men,) 
 as hot in conversation, as good at swearing, and as loud 
 in gestures as any of their male companions, and a great 
 proportion of them under the " influence." 
 
 Of course we could not go through all this and not 
 see a first class " hand-to-hand," not strictly in accord- 
 ance with the imperative rules of the prize ring, but 
 more in the nature of our American lunacy walking 
 matches, that is to say, " go-as-you-please.'' Two stal- 
 warts had met and fully agreed to disagree, and after one 
 boldly giving the other "the lie, be jabers!" with a 
 " shillalali " in one hand, lie danced around like an auto- 
 maton, with a " Whoop ! Who '11 thread on me coat 
 tails ; " which, of course, no true man of Erin can stand 
 for a moment. So this man's opponent was no exception 
 to this rule, and becoming exceedingi}^ forcible in his 
 remarks, he gave his adversary a terrible '• sockdolager " 
 on the nasal appendage and right eye, which caused tlie 
 " claret " certainly, if not the " potheen " to fly ; and 
 this had been done but a moment when about three or 
 four " bobbies " of the constabular}^ force swooped down 
 upon the combatants, and to jail they went with them in 
 a "jiffy,'' but requiring an extra policeman to keep back 
 a couple of women who, by entreaties and even by force, 
 were earnestl}^ endeavoring to have one of them, the 
 man who received " the bash on the nose," as they 
 termed it, released. But once into the hands of one of 
 the constabu^ar}'-, there is no release until you have been 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 109 
 
 presented to, and had the honor and pleasure of an inter- 
 view "with his honor the justice. 
 
 Returning to our hotel, as it was now almost eleven 
 o'clock, and sitting out on the piazza on that beautiful 
 moonlit night, our thoughts were wafted homeward ; in 
 fact, we were forcibly reminded of Allegheny Citj' at 
 least, from the, fact, as we sat there, our good, kind- 
 hearted German friend. Sir Knight Fred Beilstein, came 
 in the gateway muttering and mumbling to himself in 
 inaudible sounds, and when he reached ns he broke out 
 on a certain " highly respected gentleman," formerly 
 the head of a prominent institution in Allegheny, and he 
 ■ went for him pretty severely, too. In fact it would not 
 have been healthy for that " highly respected gentle- 
 man" by any means, to have turned up around the 
 " Railway Hotel " on that evening. Whatever started 
 Fred on that subject at that time and place is something 
 we have still to find out. 
 
 Sunday morning, like a good pious four, the " Quar- 
 tette " arose and proceeded to the Roman Catholic Cathe- 
 dral and attended ^' early church," and at 10:30 we 
 attended divine service in St. Franciscan Church, and at 
 both these services we recognized one and all of our 
 friends of the evening before, excepting perhaps the poor 
 individual who received the afore-mentioned " sockdola- 
 ger" on the nose, and the person presenting it to him. 
 Not much can be said as regards the architectural beauty 
 of either of these churches, but the cathedral is more 
 than ordinarily large, and as with nearly all buildings on 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 that side of the water, is built completel}'^ and entirely of 
 stone. The most striking feature in common with all 
 such public places, and even private mansions, is in the 
 solidity and substantiability of their appearance. The 
 interior is fitted up as is usual in churches of that 
 denomination, the alters and pulpits all being of exquis- 
 itely carved stone, no gaudiness of any kind existing, 
 while the beautiful work of the mallet and chisel, dis- 
 plaj'ed in carving out of the rude stone the twelve 
 Apostles, the two Marys and Jesus Christ our Saviour, 
 while the magnificent stained-glass windows attaining the 
 height of sixt}^ feet, are emblematical of various por- 
 tions of Scripture, and the very elaborately embroidered 
 robes which the good father wears during the service, all 
 tend with harmonj^ to please the eye of the beautiful and 
 chaste. 
 
 But there is in great contrast to this another side 
 to this picture. In looking forward, we see only that 
 which proves attractive, and extracts words of com- 
 mendation and admiration ; but turning back and look- 
 ing around over a congregation of two to three thous- 
 and persons, 'tis then we see the squalor and poverty 
 prevailing in poor old Ireland, particularly in the 
 southern country ; 'tis there we see a sight never to be 
 forgotten, the faces of Irish men and Irish women, 
 bearing the inevitable mark of their nationality as 
 unmistakably as do Grod's chosen people, which for 
 thousands of years, time nor change have ever been 
 able to eradicate ; we see there men, women, children, 
 
OK Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 in rags, with unshaven faces and unkempt hair, in 
 poverty, liunger and dirt, misery stamped upon each of 
 their unliappj^ countenances. 
 
 Oil! liow our heart goes out in sjanpathy towards 
 this people, to think, that no matter how laborious, how 
 steady, how industrious, how hard working a man may 
 be for years, or how many generations may succeed 
 him, earnestly working and studiously saving and econ- 
 omizing, the^^ never rise above tenants, for the cursed 
 and outrageously barbarous law of entailment, resting 
 upon poor Ireland and her people ; thej^ are born 
 into the world in poverty, and depart from it in 
 poverty as they came, and although the people we 
 are now amongst are to a certain extent benighted, 
 yet they are a noble race of people, and the best 
 people in their own homes in God's whole world. 
 We express no Fenian words, nor advance no social- 
 istic, communistic nor rebellious ideas, when we say 
 with all our heart, we hope to see the day when 
 Ireland will be as free as an^' nation on the earth ; 
 when by the enlightenment of civilization, the power 
 of the pen, and the cultivation of that grand and 
 noble feeling — humanitj^ — England will take the hand 
 of her protege — Ireland — and clasped in bonds of 
 peace and fraternal love, with each of Erin's thrifty 
 sons living on his own little spot of ground, in his 
 own little home, all shall dwell together in happiness 
 and unity. 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 About noon we partook of a good lunch, and 
 having previously ordered a jaunting car, the irre- 
 pressible " Quartette ' got aboard for a drive. For 
 the benefit of any who have never seen a jaunting- 
 car, we will attempt the description of one. They are 
 a neat little single-horse vehicle, somewhat of a box 
 shape, the driver sitting, as it were, on the top and 
 centre of the box, while on either side of the box 
 are two seats, the two hold two persons each, so that 
 the occupants face the sidewalks, instead of the road 
 proper, and are back to back to each other ; when but 
 one person takes a car, the driver comes down from 
 his box and seats himself with his back to you on the 
 opposite side, which balances the thing nicely, par- 
 ticularly if one should have a heav^^ dose of dyspepsia 
 and weigh but ninety pounds or so, and the driver 
 with a proper digestion weighing, say, the mild weight 
 of two hundred and forty. 
 
 We drive through the town first, and are quickly 
 impressed with the idea that Killarney is certainly 
 not the cleanest place in the world by a large ma- 
 jority. The population is about 5,000, and the prin- 
 cipal business of the people appears to be begging, 
 touting, acting as guides, and similar annoyances. 
 We again quote from Mr. Croker, that " In an evening 
 ramble through the town, the first thing that will 
 strike a stranger, is the number of idle people loung- 
 ing about the streets, or standing with their backs 
 against the door-posts of the houses." Ajid there is 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 113 
 
 no doubt but much of this consummate laziness is 
 due to tlie indiscrimiuate benevolence of unsophisti- 
 cated tourists. 
 
 There is a dispensary, a fever hospital, and an 
 alms-house, as well as a workhouse, in which are 
 four hundred paupers ; there is also a "nunnery, to 
 which is attached a school where four hundred girls 
 are educated. Lord Kenmare, the large land-owner 
 in this section, besides providing clothing for 
 thirty of the girls, annually contributes £100 for the 
 maintenance of the school, and this said, all is said 
 worth saying of Killarney for the town itself. We drive 
 out to Muckross Abbey, around the Lower and 
 Middle Lakes, ascend the Tore Mountain, and see 
 the Tore Waterfall, and from the side of this moun- 
 tain the finest view is to be had of one of the pretti- 
 est pieces of Irish scenery, for such the Lakes and 
 surrounding country of Killarney really are. 
 
 We had, aside from the beauties of nature which 
 we were enjoying and permitted to visit, a most 
 amusing time with the driver provided us, which was 
 well worth all the cost alone. He was a young fellow, 
 a genuine Irishman, and Avhilst we were for the greater 
 portion of the time convulsed in laughter, yet from 
 him we obtained much valuable information as to 
 the means of support of the inhabitants, the wages 
 usually paid, and in every respect he was witty, 
 quick and bright. We made one terrible mistake, 
 however, with him, which came near proving fatal. 
 
 H 
 
114 Crusade to Europe 
 
 aiid from wliicli we liaA^e scarcelj^ yet recovered. In 
 an unguarded, thoughtless and mifortunate moment, 
 we asked Mr. OTlahert}'-, (the driver's name,) if he 
 eouhl sing ? Oh ! fatal conundrum. '' Oh ! yes, he 
 could that, be jabers." And without further sugges- 
 tion or solicitation upon our part, he started up, and 
 notwithstanding the fact we have held several meetings 
 open and private since, and carefull}^ gone over all 
 the Irish, Scotch, English, French, German, Italian and 
 other composers, we can arrive at no reasonable or 
 definite conclusion as to what that man sang for us on 
 that da}'', and we still remain in the darkness and bliss of 
 ignorance. He sang and pitched his voice in a beautiful 
 minor ke}^, similar to the sound of a circular saw striking 
 an old and rusty nail, and the " Doctor " looked at " Car- 
 lisle" and " Carlisle " looked at the '' Doctor ; " we turned 
 and saw the " Colonel " looking at the " Majali " and the 
 "Majah" looking at the "Colonel;" and then we all 
 turned and gazed on the driver. 
 
 The Colonel thought to break the" excruciating sound 
 by asking, "Will you be so kind as to tell us the name 
 of that mountain ? " The singing goes on, heedless of 
 the question put. The Major asks, " What ruin is that 
 in the distance, on our left ? " The singing continues. 
 The Doctor asks, "Who owns this estate?" Alwa3^s a 
 safe question to ask. No cessation to the croaking on 
 the driver's box. " Carlisle " taps him on the shoulder, 
 tells him " If he was in Pittsburgh he would be in jail 
 in twenty minutes fi-om date, for violating the Sundaj^ 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 115 
 
 laws for sawing wood on Sunda3^" But still tlie abomina- 
 ble squeaking goes on, from flats to sharps and majors to 
 minors in horrible style, and we will never believe any- 
 thing else than that man was wound up just to run a 
 stated length of time, and nothing under heaven could 
 stop him unless you smashed in the works. All four of 
 the " Quartette " then lend their " inflooence " to endea- 
 vor to stop the agon}'. We entreated him, we begged 
 and plead with him in the name of all that was good, 
 and for the sake of our dear wives and families so many 
 thousand miles away, for the sake of humanitj^, to please 
 stop ; but our entreaties were of no more avail tlian had 
 we remained dumb. Then we tried the custom of dealing 
 with Pennsylvania legislatures by endeavoring to bribe 
 him with money, pearls, precious stones, U. S. bonds, or 
 even offered to stop somewhere and make him a present 
 of a whole barrel of " Jersey Lightning," if he would 
 only do as the wicked, " cease from troubling," and allow 
 the weary to rest ; but there was the difference between 
 Pennsylvania State legislatures and that poor jaunting- 
 car driver : they accept, while he simply laughed us to 
 scorn. Now we were positive he was wound up, and our 
 next fear was that he was an " eight day '' one, too. 
 
 There was but one final resort for us, to save our- 
 selves from dying a lingering and miserable death away 
 from home, and we regretted the necessity tliat compelled 
 us to use it, though it was in reality a simple question of 
 life or death ; and as we felt we had not quite finished our 
 mission here below, in true American stjde, in the twink- 
 
ii6 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ling of an eye, we covered him with four " Colts' Navy 
 six-shooters " and four seven inch " Bowie knives," which 
 made the hair on that Irishman's head raise his hat and 
 forever squelched his excruciating, painful and sickening 
 singing propensities, for he immediately and vociferously 
 yelled, " Och ! Mister ; do n't shoot ! Be all the powers 
 that was, is, or is to come, put away j'our cannons and 
 bloody weapons o'war ! and I'll do anything in the world 
 for yez." We put away our young Fortress Monroe, and 
 we had a most docile driver all the afternoon. 
 
 During our conversation with him we asked if he 
 would not like to go out to America ? He said, as do 
 nearly all over there, that he would if he could only raise 
 the " necessary." We asked him " If he had any rela- 
 tives in America ? " " Divil a one," says he, " but I've 
 got two brothers about Boston," and that struck us as a 
 little singular, for we asked very few in Ireland if they 
 had any relatives in America, but who had a father, 
 mother, sister, brother, cousin or an aunt, and all " about 
 Boston," which leads us to the conclusion that the 
 "Hub," with all its "culchah" is but a southern 
 extremity of Ireland itself, its Yankee notions and pro- 
 fessions to the contrary notwithstanding. 
 
 A LITTLE TOO MUCH POLITENESS. 
 
 We entered the beautiful grounds of Captain H. A. 
 Herbert, M. P. for Kerry, and one of the largest pro- 
 prietors in the Soutli of Ireland ; and as we rode along 
 upon the elegant and smooth roads, we saw posted at 
 frequent intervals the following notices : " Drivers 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. , 117 
 
 stopping or allowing visitors to pull flowers or leaves, or 
 cut trees, etc., will be expelled from the grounds," 
 " Flowers taken from visitors," or " Prosecuted accord- 
 ing to law," etc., etc. But the desire to obtain little 
 mementos of places visited is inherent in everyone, so 
 that so far as we were concerned the notices became as 
 many of our laws, strictly a dead letter; so we worked 
 away, the driver now being completely under our control, 
 pnlling an ivy leaf here, a sprig of heather there, a "bit 
 o' the shamrock," occasionally a pretty little flower, 
 until our pockets were overflowing, and resorted to fill- 
 ing our hats ; knowing full well that we were American 
 Sovereigns, and compelled by no law save that of ° 
 etiquette to lift our hats to any foreign potentate, landed 
 proprietor or aristocracy of any kind, so we kept placing 
 the little souvenirs in our chapeaux until the space 
 between the crown of our heads and the crown of our 
 hats was actually jammed, when we came to the pretty 
 little shaded resting cottage, placed there by Mr. Her- 
 bert for the accommodation of visitors. 
 
 We entered quite unconcernedly, to find the keeper 
 of the grounds with his little family comfortablj'' seated 
 at dinner. The " Colonel " kept nudging us with his 
 elbow and gently whispering, " Keep on your hats," 
 "Keep on your hats; " but we did not understand him, 
 and having forgotten all about the hat being full of 
 " forbidden fruit," our American politeness, in slang- 
 parlance, " gave us most emphatically and completelj^ 
 away," for off" went our hats as we entered the door, and 
 
ii8 Crusade to Europe 
 
 down fell a quart of leaves, flowers, &c., and lay scat- 
 tered at our feet. To say it was a predicament but 
 mildly expresses the feelings we then endured ; the 
 sagacity of the " Colonel " saving him nicely, while 
 " Carlisle," seeing the predicament we were in, as well as 
 our liability to see the inside of the " Bastile," con- 
 sidered discretion much the better part of valor in this 
 instance, and so made a hasty exit, followed rapidly 
 by six feet more of discretion, namely, the Doctor, 
 amid roars of laughter; and so we were compelled to 
 again fill all our receptacles the second time with afore- 
 said mementos, but we shook hands on our resolution 
 never again to lift our hats to any one under any circum- 
 stances while traveling in foreign lands. It was late in 
 the evening when we returned to our hotel, after having 
 had a most delightful drive. We had three young 
 ladies in our party, (not Knights Templar though,) and 
 by a singular coincidence we might call it, three young 
 gentlemen — susceptible young gentlemen, too. One from 
 Allegheny City, a son of one of our most respected 
 citizens, and who for many years graced tlie bench of 
 Allegheny county, (so Edward M. Jenkins says,) though 
 we have none of his able opinions nor decisions before 
 ns ; another from West Virginia, and another from New 
 Jersey ; and although so far on our tour we have not 
 frequented any " Missionary Society," "Sewing Society" 
 or " Church Social," we cannot expect to be posted in 
 everything going on about other people's business, still 
 at this point matters looked mighty interesting, and we 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. 119 
 
 certainly hoped to see our venerable Sir Knight Pre- 
 late obtain something to do, for he, the Em. Comman- 
 der and Captain - General, and even our very stately 
 Generalissimo, were actually becoming rusty for want 
 of use. We simply mention this little coincidence, for 
 having traveled that road, we know whereof we speak, 
 that moonlight drives, and seeing old abbeys, &c., by 
 candlelight, are conducive towards the end to which 
 we allude. : 
 
 Knowing we had a big day before us the following 
 day, Monday, we all went through the " Lady Macbeth " 
 scene again, and retired early ; and we thought of all the 
 poor plebeians at home ; of how, about that time they 
 would also be retiring, tossing and rolling around, 
 sweltering in hot rooms with a fan in one hand trying to 
 keep cool, and a towel in the other, striking recklessly at 
 pestersome and troublesome flies, longing and praying 
 for daylight and the morning, and remarking then what 
 a horrible night you had passed, and sighing for the 
 primitive days of light- wearing apparel, such as is worn 
 in the lower tropics, and that, say a pair of " sox " and a 
 paper collar might be the full dress for July and August ; 
 and we wealthy, traveling, sojourning nabobs, ensconced 
 snugly in our little beds, beneath blankets and comforts, 
 rather too cool if anything for comfort ; but as our 
 wealth was exhausted on this pilgrimage, we presume we 
 will have to put in some horrible nights ourselves for 
 some summers to come. 
 
 Monday morning at 9 A. M. we were all seated in 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 jaunting cars and wagonettes, ready for onr trip tlirough 
 the celebrated Gap of Dunloe, and down the lakes b3^ 
 boats, and at 9:10 tlie procession of forty persons in 
 nine vehicles, were on our way thither ; down through 
 the pretty roads of Killarney, and as all their roads are 
 macadamized, they are perfectl}^ smooth, and covered 
 over with a beautiful arch of green, the boughs of the 
 large trees growing on either side of the road intertwin- 
 ing and interlacing, forming a. beautiful shelter from a sun 
 that would have rendered our ride at least a little uncom- 
 fortable, and made it to us so cool and pleasant. 
 
 Leaving the streets of Killarnej^, we passed the Union 
 Workhouse and County Lunatic As3'lum on our right, 
 and the handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral on our 
 left. On our way we are given a magnificent view of 
 the picturesque scenery surrounding Killarney and her 
 lakes ; on our right, in front and behind us lies a ricli 
 and fertile landscape, every inch of which that can possi- 
 bly be utilized, under careful cultivation, which we are 
 also happy to say is being done by all the latest improv- 
 ed American agricultural machines. A little to our 
 left is the broad lov^er lake or Lough Leane as it is called 
 a very pretty sheet of water ; while on the extreme left as 
 a handsome background to the beautiful valley below, is 
 the chain of mountains all along on that side. On our 
 right, as we pass out from the town, perched on a piece 
 of rising ground are the venerable ruins of Aghadoe, one 
 of the most delightfullj' situated assemblages of ruins in 
 the kinodom. The castle is but a fragment of a tower 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 about thirty feet in height ; the church, a low oblong 
 building, consisting of two distinct chapels, built in 1158, 
 and dedicated to the Holy Trinit}^ The Round Tower 
 is in no better condition than the Castle ; the greater 
 part of the facing stone having been carried away for the 
 erection of tombs in the adjacent burying-ground. 
 About a mile farther along we pass Aghadoe House, the 
 pleasant mansion of the dowager Lady Headle}'. To our 
 left on the lake side is the Lake View House, the resi- 
 dence of James O'Connell, Esq., brother of the late 
 agitator in Ireland. On the same side is seen Killalee 
 House and Beaufort House, having an extensive and 
 beautiful demesne, and crossing the river Laune, which 
 conveys the surplus water from the upper lake, at Beau- 
 fort bridge, and here we are immediately beseiged by a 
 cavalcade of seemingly Mosb}^ guerillas ; some one- 
 legged, one-e3'ed, one-toothed, one-eared, and altogether 
 about as hard a looking " gang " as it was ever our mis- 
 fortune to meet. These fellows ride along, and blather 
 awa}" about taking their horses or ponies at the entrance 
 to the gap. Finally we arrive at the famous cottage of 
 Kate Kearney ; when out comes little old Kate, (not the 
 original Kate to be sure,) with a jug of the "potheen " 
 under one arm, and a bottle of pure "goats' milk" 
 under the other, but we can say Kate will not speedily 
 become a landowner through the means of such parties 
 as that day visited her. 
 
 Here after a little delay we were provided with ponies 
 — ladies having side-saddles to be sure — and we must say 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 all did nobly, including Mrs. M of the city of 
 
 Brotherly Love, who was with us on the tour solely and 
 wholly for her health, she being extremely delicate, and 
 we all sincerely trust that she derived much benefit since 
 from her trip, and was enabled to return to her friends 
 hale, hearty and stout ; for, having fallen away as she 
 had done before leaving home, she must certainly have 
 been very ill ; and she being a most agreeable and pleas- 
 ant traveling companion not to speak of her charming 
 
 daughter Mrs. F , we should only be too gratified 
 
 to hear of her complete recovery lo her wonted health. 
 
 Mrs. M was the only one of whom we had any 
 
 fear, thinking- it might probably be too rough a ride for 
 her, but she managed through it appearing none the 
 worse. (But, oh, heavens, how we did pity that pony !) 
 We proceeded on our way through the gap, and 
 everything was going on all right until our friend from 
 St. Louis was giving us a few circus feats and perform- 
 ances. He had been riding successfully for some time 
 with his face to the tail of the pony until tiring of that 
 position, he concluded to turn round without going to 
 the trouble of dismounting, and of course not being used 
 to such " ring tricks," it was like two trains attemping 
 to pass on the same track, it could not be done, for down 
 came our poor friend at the pony's feet, and it was 
 truly a comical sight to see our St. Louis friend alight 
 on his head, his neck, his back, his limbs, his feet in 
 rapid succession, and the poor little innocent pony 
 gazing intently at Robert, and Robert gazing intently at 
 the pony. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ^ 123 
 
 The Gap of Duiiloe is a wild and narrow mountain 
 pass between tlie range of hills known as Macgillicuddy's 
 Reeks and the Purple Mountains. It is four miles in 
 length. Sterling Coyne thus writes of it : " On either 
 hand the craggy cliffs, composed of huge masses of pro- 
 jecting rocks suspend fearfully over the narrow pathway, 
 and at every step threaten with destruction the adventur- 
 ous explorer of this desolate scene. In the interstices of 
 these immense fragments a few shrubs and trees shoot 
 out in fantastic shapes, which, with the dark ivy and 
 luxuriant heather, contribute to the picturesque efl'ect of 
 the landscape." We pass the Black Lough where it is 
 related Saint Patrick banished the last snake. A small 
 stream called the Loe traverses the whole length of the 
 Gap, expanding itself at different points iiato five small 
 lakes, each liaving its proper name, but which are known 
 in the aggregate as the Cummeen Thomeen lakes. 
 
 We come to Echo Rock, where our guide took his 
 cornet and pla3^ed several familiar airs, such as " Home, 
 Sweet, Home," " The Old Folks at Home," &c., and the 
 rock echoing back those svveet airs in eight separate and 
 distinct keys, apparently, commencing loud and close to 
 hand, until growing sweeter and fainter as it climbed the 
 mountain side, it was lost in the ninth echo, yet in the 
 eighth each trill or flat or grace note sounded, came back 
 as perfectly and as sweetly as though there had been eight 
 different cornets playing the same bar in different keys. 
 Touters along the road fire off cannon to awaken the, ' 
 magnificent echo which passes from hill to hill, and at 
 
124 ' Crusade to Europe 
 
 every little step are to be found deaf, dumb, lame, 
 decrepit, deformed, maimed persons begging for a six 
 pence. Emerging from tiie gap we come within sight of 
 the Black Valley, which stretches away to our right and 
 seems lost in its own profundity. The Irish name for 
 this Yalley is Cummeenduff, Commenduff^, Gom-a-Dhuv, 
 Gom-Dhuv and Goovi-Dhuvh, and of either of these 
 unpronounceable words the reader may take his or her 
 choice. Mr. Inglis in writing up Irish scenery, sa5^s, 
 " this vale is much more striking than that which we have 
 just left, for few could look into its wild recess without a 
 feeling akin to horror." The darkness of the valley is 
 not caused b}^ any excess of vegetation, what exists 
 being, on the contrar}^, very stunted and sparingly scat- 
 tered. The effect is produced by the height of the hills 
 surrounding the valle}^, and the immense quantity of 
 dissolved peat}'^ matter in the water. Mr, Wuidele 
 describes the valley much more concisely and truly than 
 we could attempt to do, and he gives this as his descrip- 
 tion : " On our right lies the deep, broad desolate glen of 
 Coom Dhuv, an amphitheatre, buried at the base and 
 hemmed in by vast mountains, whose rugged sides are 
 marked by the course of the descending streams. , At 
 the western extremity ef the valley gloomily reposes, 
 amid silence and shadows one of the lakes or rather 
 circular basins of dark still water, Loch-au-bric-dearg, 
 ' the lake of chav, or red trout.' Other lesser lakes dot 
 the surface of the moor, and uniting, form at the side 
 opposite the termination of the gap. A waterfall of 
 
OF Allegheny Commandf.ry. 125 
 
 considerable height enjoying the advantage not common 
 to other falls in Ireland, of being plentifully supplied 
 with water at every season of the year." 
 
 The whole valley is a black, scarcely defined prison, 
 and the water throws back the light, which it receives by 
 reflection from the clouds, giving the idea of being light- 
 ed from below. We now proceed down the pathway ^ 
 leading through the valley, and speaking a moment ago 
 of begging, we will give one example' which for notorious 
 and unmitigated cheek surpasses anything we have ever i> 
 met in our little experience. We were passing down this 
 little narrow path when we were tackled by one of the 
 most frightful looking women we had ever beheld, in her 
 bare feet, with her hair dirty and tousy, and her face <^ 
 accustomed to long exposure in the burning sun, one 
 solid mass of freckles the size of three cent silver pieces, 
 and she styled herself the " Colleen Bawn." Heaven 
 preserve us from the Colleen Bawn ! Eileen was her 
 name, and as we rode along, Eileen importuned us one 
 by one to invest in one of her " picturs," asking a six- 
 pence therefor, and there is nothing we regret so much 
 now, that we did not invest in a " sample copy "of the 
 same, that through the aid of woodcuts or steel plate, 
 we might be able to produce the image of " Eileen " in 
 this work for the inspection of the reader, and our 
 fortune would have been an assured fact. However, to 
 resume, "Carlisle" happened to be riding in company 
 with the " Major," who was carrying an awful look of 
 disdain upon his usually pleasant countenance, and mut- 
 
126 Crusade to Europe 
 
 tering some camp meeting revival sentences on begging 
 in general, when to rid himself of " Eileen, the pest,'' he 
 dived his hand deep down into his pants pocket and 
 pulled forth an American five and one cent piece. Hold- 
 ing the five cent piece towards " Eileen," he inquired of 
 her "if she knew what it was? " " Of coiirse," says she, 
 ^' its a five cint piece." " Well," says the Major, "take 
 that and go awa}^ from me forever;" at the same time 
 replacing the one cent piece in his pocket, when" Eileen" 
 coolly said, "but, Misther, couldn't yez give me the 
 other cint, too." It is scarcely necessary to add that the 
 look of disgust on the Major's face did not change to a 
 pleasant smile by any means, at this further show of 
 consummate impudence. A certain gentleman from 
 Allegheny City, who enjoys a wide reputation of supply- 
 ing juicy pieces of tender meat to the families of said 
 city, became quite infatuated with the " Colleen Bawn," 
 and invested in one of her pictures, saying " he just 
 wanted to show it to his wife;" but none of us believed a 
 v.'ord of it, and we do not think he has shown it to this 
 moment to her. 
 
 It was also rumored at headquarters, as well as 
 in the camp, that the Doctor, and even our gallant 
 Colonel, were verj^ much taken Avith " Eileen." Of 
 course they were very careful, but the Major and 
 " Carlisle " can at any moment testify to the sweet 
 glances cast by them to she of the tous}^ hair and 
 little " barefoot." All along this path we are met by 
 women, children strapped to their backs, a la Indian 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. 127 
 
 squaw style, and tliey knitting at stockings tliick enough 
 for horse blankets, and the prices asked for a pair 
 would keep a horse comfortable under a covering during 
 the winter. 
 
 Arriving at the head of the Upper Lake, we seat 
 ourselves on the grass, and are served with a fine 
 luncheon of cold chicken and sandwiches, brought us by 
 the boatmen, and, having finished the same, we enter 
 the boats with four rowers to each boat, dressed in 
 pretty white sailor suits, the grand old " Stars and 
 Stripes " at the bow of each of the little boats, and 
 three rousing cheers are given for the flag of our 
 countrj^ as we sight it. 
 
 We now proceed down the Upper Lake, near which 
 is situated Lord Brandon's cottage, from which the 
 tourist, if he is so disposed, can ascend the Purple 
 Mountain ; this we failed to do, owing to lack of 
 time. The Upper Lake is in length two and a half 
 miles, and three-quarters of a mile in breadth, cov- 
 ering an area of 430 acres, containing twelve islands, 
 ranging from a rood to an acre in size. It is gen- 
 erally admitted to be the finest of the three lakes, 
 not for the lake itself, as the Lower Lake far sur- 
 passes it for grandeur, combining, as it does, manj^ 
 of the softer beauties of wood and watei- with the 
 grand mountain scenerj-, and the wild rocky shores, 
 which liem it in on all sides. 
 
 Arbutus Island is one of tlie largest in the lake, 
 and takes its name from the fact of its being com- 
 
128 Crusade to Europe 
 
 pletely covered with the beautiful plant whose name it 
 bears. The leaves of this plant, even in winter, are 
 of a rich, glossy green, and so clustered at the tei'- 
 mination of the branches, that the waxen, fresli-like 
 flowers which hang' in graceful racemes, or the rich 
 crimson, strawberry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest 
 of verdure. Mr. Coyne, who, we think, rather exag- 
 gerates in his writings of Irisli scenerj', leading the 
 tourist to expectations even greater than in reality 
 are to be gratified, and in speaking of Macgillicud- 
 dy's Reeks, in connection with this lake, puts his 
 description in these lines : 
 
 " On the left, the Reeks 
 Lift to the clouds their craggy heads on high, 
 Crowned witli tiaras fashioned in the sky, 
 In vesture clad of soft ethereal hue. 
 The Purple Mountains rise to distant view 
 With Dunloe's Gap." 
 
 And Weed, in his work, says " The Upper Lake 
 displays much greater variety than the others, but 
 that variety arises from different combinations of the 
 same wild and uncultivated features ; in picturesque 
 scenery, indeed, it far surpasses all the other lakes, 
 and it is only by a patient examination of its shores, 
 and particularly of the deep inlets along it, that ts 
 full beauties can be discovered. As we near the 
 eastern end of the Lake, it becomes but a narrow 
 strip of water, more than lialf a mile long, called 
 Newfoundland Bay, and every little island has a yarn 
 about it which the boatmen will spin out; indeed, from 
 
OF Allegheny Commandfry. 
 
 129 
 
 the time you enter Ireland until the time j^ou leave 
 it, you become literally jammed full of lies, so that 
 there would scarcely be room enough for another 
 square meal. 
 
 One huge mass of rock, called the "Man of War," 
 resembles an upturned hulk of a vessel, exactly, and 
 of course there is a lie in connection with it ; and 
 there is another with the resemblance of a foot-print 
 in it, and that is where some ancient giant stepped 
 in crossing the lake, once upon a time; and from its 
 appearance, not only " were there giants in those 
 days," but those giants must certainly have been 
 troubled with corns. We then come to the Eagle's 
 Nest, a precipitous rock, rearing its head seven hun- 
 dred feet above the river, and is eleven hundred feet 
 above the level of the sea, and in its chasms the 
 American Bird of Paradise makes itself comfortably 
 at home. The echo from this huge rock, as well as 
 those surrounding it, is remarkable ; a call from the 
 cornet or bugle is repeated nearly a dozen times, 
 and answered from mountain to mountain, sometimes 
 loud and without interval, and then fainter and fainter, 
 and after a sudden pause again arising as if from some 
 distant glen, and then dying insensibly awaj^ As we 
 approach the "Meeting of Waters," the entrance to 
 the Middle Lake, we pass through below the Old Weir 
 Bridge, through the arch of which the water rushes, 
 so that the boatmen stop rowing and simplj^ guiding 
 the boat, and we dash through into Muck Ross, oi' 
 
 I 
 
130 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Middle Lake, containing an area of about six iiun- 
 dred and eight}^ acres. All will remember Thackeray's 
 description oi' the Middle Lake, in his " Irish Sketch 
 Book," when, in answer to the question, " What is 
 to be said about Tore Lake ? " replies : " When there, 
 we agreed that it was more beautiful than the large 
 lake, of which it is not one-fourth the size ; then when 
 we came back, we said, 'No, the large lake is the most 
 beautiful,' and so at every point we stopped at we de- 
 termined that that particular spot was the prettiest 
 in the whole lake. The fact is, and I don't care to 
 own it, the}!' are too handsome. As for a man'*- coming 
 from his desk in London or Dublin, and seeing the 
 ' whole lakes in a da}',' he is an ass for his pains. 
 A child doing a sum in addition might as well read 
 the whole multiplication table and fanc}^ he had it by 
 heart." 
 
 Thus saith Mr. Thackeray, and we do not know 
 whether that gentleman was aware when he wrote the 
 " Sketch Book," that Allegheny Gommandery was going 
 to see " the whole lakes in a day," or not, but we 
 agree with Mr. Thackeray fully, that we did make 
 asses of ourselves in spending but one day on the 
 lakes, and if the admired author will forgive us this 
 time, though he has been dead some sixteen years, 
 we would never give him another chance, were he 
 living, to fore-ordain our coming to the " Lakes of Kil- 
 larney." 
 
 We now enter upon Lough Leane, or the Lower 
 Lake, by passing below Brickeen Bridge. This Lake 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ■ 131 
 
 is five miles long by three in width, and covers an 
 area of some five thousand acres. There are some 
 thirty islands in this lake, none over an acre in area. 
 The names of the islands are derived from the suppo- 
 sition of their being the resort of different animals, or 
 from some fancied resemblance to some inanimate 
 objects, sucli as Lamb Island, Elephant Island, Heron 
 Island, Rabbit Island, Slag Island, OyLer Island, Gun 
 Rocks, O'Donoghue's Horse, Crow Island, Grannet 
 Rocks, &c. 
 
 One legend, of which every inch of ground has a 
 dozen, concerns the O'Donogliues of the Lakes, whose 
 castle on Ross Island lies in ruins, but the fame of 
 whose deeds still lives in the memories of the people, 
 and that legend may be worth giving : " Once every 
 seven years, on a fine morning before the first raj^s 
 of the sun have begun to disperse the mists from the 
 bosom of the Lake, the O'Donoghue comes riding over 
 it on a beautiful snow white horse, intent upon house- 
 hold afiairs, fairies hovering over him and strewing 
 his path with flowers. As he approaches his ancient 
 residence, everything returns to its former state of 
 magnificence; his castle, his librar}^, his prison, and 
 his pigeon-house, are reproduced as in olden time. 
 Those who have courage to follow him over the lake 
 may cross even the deepest parts dry footed, and ride 
 with him into the opposite mountains, where his treas- 
 ures lie concealed, and the daring visitor will receive 
 a liberal gift in return for his company; but before 
 
132 Crusade to Europe 
 
 the sun is risen, the O'Donoghue re-crosses the water 
 and vanishes amidst the ruins of his castle." Now, 
 when the seventli year comes round, Mr. O'Donoghue 
 can count us in for liis companj^ on tlie trip to his 
 hidden treasures, and he can re-cross as much water 
 as ever he has a mind to, or vanish all he pleases, 
 we will take the risk of finding our way home. 
 
 Glena Bay ,is the part of the Lower Lakes first 
 entered, and the quiet beauty which surrounds it, 
 coupled with the sheet of water beyond, which 
 seems to melt into the horizon, gives a favorable 
 impression of the Lake. Then 'Sullivan's Cascade 
 is worth}'^ of a visit, and then we row to Innisfallen 
 Island, which is about half way between the east and 
 west shores of the Lake, and is interesting on account 
 of the historical associations in connection with it, 
 and the charm thrown around it by the poetry of 
 Moore. The island is about 21 acres in extent, and 
 commands the most varied and lovely views of the 
 Lower Lake, its shores, and the mountain scenery. 
 On the island are the ruins of Innisfallen Abbey, 
 which are scattered, over the island, and were sup- 
 posed to have been founded by St. Finian, in A. D. 600, 
 to whom the Cathedral of Aghadoe was dedicated. 
 In this Abbey the celebrated "Annals of Innisfallen" 
 were composed, which work contains scraps from the 
 Old Testament; a compendious, though not by any 
 means valuable," universal history, down to the period 
 of Saint Patrick, with a more perfect continuation 
 of Irish history to the beginning of the fourteenth 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. • 133 
 
 century. The Annals record that, in 1180, the Abbey 
 of Innisfallen, which had at that time all the gold 
 and silver and richest goods of the whole country 
 deposited in it, as the place of greatest security, was 
 plundered by Mildurie, son of Daniel O'Donoghue, 
 as was also the church of Ardfert, and many persons 
 were slain in the very cemeterj^ by the McCarthys. 
 There is on the island a curious freak of nature 
 in the shape of a tree which spreads at the ground 
 like two separate and distinct trees, and some dis- 
 tance up meets and grows together again, which gives 
 it the appearance, as it is Called, of " The eye of the 
 Needle," in connection with which there is the cus- 
 tomary yarn, that any unmarried person passing through 
 the space, (about six inches), they will be married 
 within a year ; and it was wonderful to see how agile, 
 and particularly, through how small a space the unmar- 
 ried portion of our party could pass. And after all, 
 it may be necessary for us to take back our assertions 
 of all being yarns and falsehoods in Ireland, for in one 
 instance the legend proved true since our return home, 
 in the case of one of our number. 
 
 With the lines of Moore, we say farewell to Innis- 
 fallen Island : 
 
 " Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, 
 
 May calm and sunshine long be thine, 
 How fair thou art, let others tell. 
 
 While but to feel how fair be mine." 
 
 " Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell, 
 •In memory's dream that sunny smile, 
 Which o'er thee on that evening fell. 
 When first I saw that fairy isle." 
 
134 Crusade to Europe 
 
 We then rowed across the lake to Ross Island, 
 on the eastern shore, on which is a copper mine, 
 opened in 1804. Crofton Croker asserts that "during 
 the four years that Ross mine was worked, nearly 
 £80,000, or four hundred thousand dollars' worth of 
 ore was disposed of at Swansea, some cargoes pro- 
 ducing £40 per ton." He adds " that this very rich- 
 ness was the ultimate cause of its destruction, as sev- 
 eral small veins of pure oxide of copper split off from 
 the main lode and ran towards the surface. The ore 
 of these veins was much more valuable than the other, 
 consequentl}', the miners, who were paid by the quality 
 as well as the quantity, pursued the smaller veins so 
 near the surface that the water broke through into 
 the mine in such an overwhelming degree, that an 
 engine of thirty-horse power could make no sensible 
 impression on the inundation. 
 
 The Ross Castle is the next object of our visit, 
 which is a conspicuous object from many positions on 
 the lake, and from the summit is obtained a most de- 
 lightful view ; and from its top we waved the little 
 " Star Spangled Banner " our colors, kindly presented 
 to us on our departure by Mrs. E. C Rafferty, and 
 which was carried with us all round on our " Crusade." 
 The Castle is, of course, in ruins, being the last to 
 surrender in Munster. It was on the 26th clay of July, 
 1652. Lord Muskerry had been defeated in the County 
 Cork, and many of his followers slain ; and retreating 
 to Ross Castle, he held out against the repeated at- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 135 
 
 *- 
 
 tacks of General Ludlow, and not until " Ships of 
 War " were seen upon the lake did the garrison sur- 
 render. 
 
 In his memoirs, Ludlow thus narrates the inci- 
 cident : " When we had received our boats, each of 
 which was capable of containing one hundred and 
 twenty men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about 
 the water, in order to find out the most convenient 
 place for landing upon the enemy ; which, they perceiv- 
 ing, thought fit, by a timely submission, to prevent 
 the danger that threatened them. After the surrender, 
 five thousand of the Munster men laid down their arms. 
 Lord Broghill, who accompanied Ludlow, had granted 
 to him " £1,000 yearly oub of the estates of Lord 
 Muskerry." 
 
 We then visit Muckross Abbey, which is very inter- 
 esting tor its wonderful state of preservation, its age, 
 and beauty of construction, with its pleasant and happy 
 location, standing, as it does, on a beautiful plateau of 
 ground hidden from sight amidst magnificent shade 
 trees of various kinds, while around almost as far as 
 eye can see, what a lovely landscape view, and how 
 strikingly beautiful the fields and grounds are at present, 
 in their bright and pretty green, owing to their season 
 being much later than ours, and they not yet having 
 garnered their harvests, while occasional glimpses may 
 be had of the Lower Lake, from whicli we have just 
 come. 
 
 The Abbey is on the demesne of Mr. Herbert, M. 
 
136 Crusade to Europe 
 
 P. It was founded in 1440, and consists of the Abbey 
 and a church. The cloisters belonging to the Abbey 
 are in the form of a sombre piazza, surrounding a dark 
 court 3^ard, made still more gloomy by the presence of 
 ■a magnificent yew tree growing immediately in its centre. 
 In the grounds, and within the ruin itself, are the 
 to-mbs of those who have been and passed away to sleep 
 the long, last sleep, to awake when " the last trump 
 shall sound." One, we deciphered on a tomb-stone "as 
 being dated August 12th, 1213, and several more from 
 that date up to ItOO ; and on one stone, we saw that 
 one man had died in 1*199, at the age of one hundred 
 and fourteen years. 
 
 Here our jaunting cars are in waiting for our return, 
 to convey us to the hotel, and, driving along the beau- 
 tiful drive, with constant and ever varying scenery, 
 slumps of trees, elegant and rare ferns, and blooming- 
 heather, with occasionally small open places to spacious 
 ■grounds, we see growing many fine species of sub- 
 tropical plants ; sometimes in the shade of trees, at 
 •others full and enchanting views of the lake and 
 scenery opening out to us ; all around on our left are 
 the mountains, all covered with heather, and the 
 ■"Mja-tle of Killarne}^," — the Arbutus wood. Not a 
 speck of cultivation is to be seen on the side of an^^ 
 of the hills which range from 1,100 to 3,000 feet in 
 height, and the more mild and picturesque scener^'^ 
 on the right,' makes them grander and nobler than 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. , 137 
 
 were the country coiitinuall}^ mountainous, and relieves 
 what would he a monotony of beauty in the valley 
 below. On the summit of one of these mountains is 
 one of tlie alleged deepest lakes in the world, called 
 the " Devil's Punch Bowl," so deep, in fact, that one 
 da}'^ some foolish, venturesome man, , (we will wager 
 some Yankee to plant a " Bitters " or " Cuticura " 
 sign) climbed to the top of this mountain and tumbled 
 in, going all the way through to Australia, landing 
 at some lady's feet, and men were so scarce in those 
 days, that she gobbled him up and took him unto 
 herself. Fact I 
 
 We can truthfully say, this day, a glorious day 
 spent amid glorious scenery, is one that will ever be 
 remembered as one of the brightest, sparkling gems 
 in all our bouquet of sight-seeing, as well as the 
 mau}^ pleasantries interspersed and experienced through- 
 out the day, and which will never be forgotten. 
 
 As we neared our hotel, the coach of another 
 hotel passed us, filled with newlj^ arrived tourists, 
 and happening to have our flag floating in the breeze, 
 it was greeted with cheers loud and strong, and clapping 
 of hands, and we were satisfied America was to be 
 represented on the following day on the same ground 
 we were just leaving. 
 
 We should liked to have made the ascent of Man- 
 gerton, until lately considered the highest mountain 
 in Ireland, and also Macgillicuddy's Reeks, but our 
 
i-;8 Crusade to Europe 
 
 time being short, we Aveve for the time being com- 
 pelled to forego that privilege; so after satisfying our 
 appetites after our hard day's sight-seeing, we retired 
 to our rooms, and at nine o'clock Tuesday, the fol- 
 lowing morning, bade farewell to Killarney and take 
 train for Dublin. 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. 139 
 
 ^eftie'^ Mo. 4. 
 
 Killarney to Dublin. — Knights Templar transposed 
 Into Knights of Submission. — Full Account of the 
 Impressive Ceremonies of Initiation, as w^ell as 
 the Grand Ennobling Principles of the Order.— 
 In Dublin. — Incidents by the "Way. 
 
 'IS with sincere regret we leave Killarney. We 
 would feign have remained and rested a few 
 days longer, for it seems to us we could never 
 tire of its scenery, or of talking of it ; and we have 
 been wonderfully favored as to weather, not having 
 had since our da}^ of landing, one drop of rain, nor 
 even a mist, though we had been lead to believe it 
 rained about three hundred and twenty-five days in 
 the year in Ireland. It is a feast for the eye here 
 — all that beautiful, rich and fertile valley round and 
 about us seems to lift itself, and smilingly say : "Pil- 
 grim, I greet thee." We would tarr}^, if we could, 
 much longer to feast our eyes on such a banquet 
 as Dame Nature has prepared for those who will 
 only come and partake. 
 
 And just here the beautiful thought struck us, 
 
I40 Crusade to Europe 
 
 expressed by one of the brightest, shrewdest and most 
 astute criminal lawj^ers at our county bar, if he has his 
 equal in this great Commonwealth, who, in a murder 
 trial on one occasion in pleading the defendant's cause, 
 brought forth this thought : " That although the poor 
 prisoner at the bar had no friend, no relative in this wide 
 world to plead his cause, save a paid advocate, yet to 
 some one that face had been as sweet and dear as were 
 any of those he was then addressing to their friends ; " 
 and we thouglit it aptl}^ applied here in this little town 
 where we were, that no matter how bloated, how seared, 
 how besotted, how haggard, how ugly a face was, j^et to 
 some one in this wide world, thousands of miles off in 
 America, Australia, or to some one now filling a narrow 
 grave, that face had been as dear, sweet and beloved as 
 the most beautiful face and complexion of an}- fair 
 Cleopatra. Some one living, or that has lived, loves or 
 loved that face — though now with sunken eyes or bleared 
 countenance — as dearl}^ as thej'^ loved their own. And 
 so it struck us, continuing the thought in the National 
 face of Ireland. Cursed by the corruption of her 
 notorious land-owners, the finger of scorn and ridicule 
 pointed towards her, for her people, their darkness 
 superstition and ignorance, yet an Almighty Being has 
 given her in nature a face that evevy Irishman justly 
 loves, and loves so much they would die for her. And 
 no wonder they love that face ; no wonder they love to 
 call it the Green, the Emerald, and Erin's Isle. 'Tis 
 here nature shows her beaut3\ Covering her face at 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. . 141 
 
 many points on the approach to her rock-bound coast, 
 yet as you advance to her Killarney Lakes, she boldly 
 removes her hands and exposes to the tourist a profile, 
 rich in beauty and handsome in features ; and as the 
 great galaxy of beauties are presented in the famed 
 mountains of Switzerland ; the gardens of France and 
 Italy ; the stern expression of Scotland ; Ireland can 
 modestly and conscientiously thrust herself in upon the 
 claimants for praise, and though perhaps not to receive 
 the prize, will at least be furnished the highest commen- 
 dation. 
 
 But we are traveling on schedule time and our time- 
 table says: " Leave Killarney 9:10 A. M., Tuesday, July 
 16th," and at that hour we bid farewell to Killarney, and 
 are on our way to Dublin, the capital city of Ireland ; 
 the distance thither being one hundred and sixty-five 
 miles, and time to run it, eight hours and twenty 
 minutes. These facts and figures we know only because 
 the time-table said so, for we will be honest and make 
 an open confession here, and we will venture to say in 
 every particular we are correct, that with the exception 
 of one short glimpse at the great bogs between Mallow 
 and Dublin, not one person in our compartment in the 
 railway carriage, saw any of the country we passed 
 through, know any of its features or anj^thing else con- 
 cerning it. For our own part, the 16th day of July, 
 18*18, so far as scenery, distance traveled, or time con- 
 sumed in traveling it, is in our mind a perfect blank — a 
 page in memory vacant, save the aforesaid compartment, 
 
142 Crusade to Europe 
 
 the scenes enacted therein, and they are ineffaceably 
 written on the tablet of our mind ; and this leads us to 
 the famed " C." K. ot S., or one hundredth degree or 
 Knights of Submission. 
 
 Our compartment held, as did all the others, eight 
 pei'sons. In it were the irrepressible " Quartette " — the 
 Doctor, the Colonel, the Major, and " Carlisle" — and our 
 venerable, handsome friend John Amsden, Esq., Robert 
 Baxter, Esq., (the renowned and celebrated equestrian, 
 a lo. GajD of Dunloe,) and our friend from Womelsdorf, 
 Pa., one of the noisiest, funniest iellows and loudest 
 talkers we ever had the pleasure of meeting. To our 
 knowledge the poor fellow, who was really very delicate, 
 had never open his mouth from the da}^ of leaving New 
 York up to the time of our parting in London, save to 
 eat his meals and occasionally to yawn. These were the 
 occupants of an Irish railway carriage, and seating therh- 
 selves the " Quartette " were soon deeply engaged in the 
 usually quiet yet fascinating game of eucher. Now 
 eucher is an innocent little game as a rule, even the 
 rector of the parish may consistently sit down with his 
 Avife and children, and " order up and go it alone " with 
 none of his parishioners to "molest or make him afraid," 
 but eucher as all other things can be fearfully abused, 
 and it was on this occasion. We do not desire to be 
 personal in this instance, though duty in writing up the 
 history of this " Crusade " would almost lead us to tell 
 all the truth and nothing but the truth, but we will spare 
 the two who debased the pasteboards. Millions were 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. . 143 
 
 staked on each game, two of the party, (two well versed 
 in army tactics,) betting their wealth profusely, while the 
 other two looked sadly upon the demoralized pair and 
 meditating upon the fearful consequences, a high official 
 of Allegheny Commandery and an epauletted officer of 
 the United States army were setting to the youthful 
 Amsden, the guileless Baxter, and the noisy Laucks, not 
 ,to speak of the " innocents abroad " the Major and 
 " Carlisle." On the peril of our lives and the cheerful 
 assurance of a terrible threat of instant death, we were 
 commanded not to tell on them upon our arrival home, 
 not even to ever whisper anything concerning their 
 gambling propensities, but acting under the advice of 
 eminent counsel and a reminder by conscience of our 
 duty in the premises, we cannot afford to be derelict; 
 and there we were, covered b}^ a Colt's five-shooter in the 
 hands of one, and a full grown stiletto in the hands of 
 the other, and patiently compelled to sit and hold the 
 sovereigns those two money-making plebeians were 
 playing for. The eucher playing went rapidly on; both 
 were euchered out of all they had, for we had been grad- 
 ually coaxing up our courage, and having nursed it to 
 the proper pitch, the Major suddenly rushed his hands 
 up through liis raven and beautifully curled locks ; 
 " Carlisle " loosened his cravat and by a strategic move- 
 ment captured the money, pocketed the bank, dared 
 either to lay hands upon us, and from that date the 
 playing proceeded in a manner becoming people hailing 
 from a land of freedom, an enlightened nation and a 
 Christian country. (All fact !) 
 
144 Crusade to Europe 
 
 As the day advanced it became very warm, a hot 
 sun was pouring down its rays upon the roof of the 
 carriage, and having worn out a couple packs of 
 pasteboards, we were left in a state of " unfixedness," 
 nothing to do, time hanging wearily upon our hands, 
 in short, Micawber like, we were simply waiting for 
 something to " turn up." 
 
 Active minds such as those could not long remain 
 idle, and knowing full well humanity was suifering 
 very greatly from the evil of never knowing how to 
 patiently submit to misfortune, evils, drawbacks, ad- 
 versity, &c., it dawned upon the minds of the " Quar- 
 tette," and, singular coincidence, almost simultaneously, 
 proving again the oft-used expression, "that great minds 
 run in the same channel,'' to take up the mantle of 
 philanthropy, in favor and hope of benefiting man- 
 kind ; so, following the thought, and girding our loins 
 with these noble principles, we founded then and there 
 the one hundredth degree or Knights of Submission. 
 We trust the time draws nearer and nearer when we 
 shall see this order — founded, as it was, by noble men, 
 and for a noble purpose — spread rapidly from quarter 
 to quarter of this great and magnificent world of ours, 
 until the American, the European, the Asiatic, and the 
 African shall be brought within the fold of its well 
 founded principles and teg^chings ; and then, and not 
 until then, shall this world — not as in parts, but as 
 in one vast whole — move forward in the steady tread 
 of progress, making the ball of advancement, elevation 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 145 
 
 and education roll as though regulated by a faultless 
 machinery. 
 
 Oh, yes ! ye nations ; nations yet in darkness, and 
 yet unborn, away in the unseen and unkuown future, 
 the generations now rising and still to come will turn 
 back the pages of histor}'- and sing ]oud songs ot 
 praise to the Doctor, the Mnjor, the Colonel, and 
 " Carlisle." Parents and grand-parents will sit around 
 the cheerful fire of midwinter, in the happy family 
 circle, with children upon their knees, and tell of the 
 heroic deeds and humaniiarian thoughts of the afore- 
 mentioned personages, and their names shall be lauded 
 in the mouths of the nations, and, more than that, 
 to those four will be given the honor, by all the 
 sterner sex, who, from excess of work in the club 
 room of the evening before, unselfishly sleep their 
 sweet sleep, while their wives, who never have any- 
 thing to do, no sick children to attend to, arise early 
 to see that the household duties are proceeding in a 
 manner that will prove satisfactory to their wear}' liege 
 lords ; we say, to those four will be given the honor 
 due them, of having instituted an order, whose first 
 fundamental principle is Submission, so that with the 
 thermometer twent}- degrees lower than nothing, lie may 
 with due propriety, at 5 A. M., awaken and gently 
 remark, "Arline or Rosalba, get thee down and start 
 the fires," and Arline or Rosalba patiently, beautifully 
 and cheerfully submits to this noble Sir Knight, and 
 many other such cheerful examples we could set forth. 
 
 J 
 
146 Crusade to Europe 
 
 The "Quartette" formed tlie charter members, and 
 constituted themselves at once the Subordniate and 
 Grand Lodge of the Worhl, and, as is supposed hj'- . 
 many, that all secret societies love darkness rather than 
 light, we could not depart from the customary usages and 
 so constituted this a very dark-lantern society, and at 
 once proceeded to the election of officers, the Doctor 
 being imanimousli/ elected Grand Mogul — we say unan- 
 imously for very simple I'easons, these were the stub- 
 born facts, that 'the Major had too much of his other- 
 wise symmetrical frame turned under for pedals, the 
 Colonel had grown too much broadways, and "Carlisle" 
 had not 3'et reached the height of a giant, and, of course 
 the Doctor usurped the position, none of us, in fact all 
 combined, scarcely felt the ability to compel him to 
 submit to a decorous nomination and parliamentarj^ 
 election, so we simpl}'' had the pleasure of teaching 
 ourselves the first cardinal point our order — we sub- 
 mitted. We then went into secret council, " pulled down 
 the blinds," that the curious and outside world might 
 have no knowledge of our secrets, formed the obligations 
 to our degree, which ran about in this wise : " That if 
 any of the secrets were ever revealed by the candidate, 
 the^^ would, upon their arrival in London, be taken to 
 London Bridge, at the dread hour of midnight, and 
 there chucked over to become food for the little fishes 
 in the Thames, or converted into oleomargarine mud, 
 which is prolific in the river of that name," &c. Then 
 we formed our pass-words and our signs, but fearing to 
 leave weeping and mourning friends we dare not give 
 
OF ALLEGHENY COMMANDERY. I47 
 
 them ; we leave tliem to the charitable and thoroughly 
 posted people who make up the Anti-Secret Society. 
 We were then declared constituted, open and ready for 
 business, and, without further ado, proceeded to the 
 initiation of the remaining occupants of our compart- 
 ments, the first being our venerable and wortli,y and 
 social friend Mr. Amsden, then Robert Baxter, but for 
 fear our friend Laucks would make more noise than 
 ever, we made him an honorary member, declining to 
 put him through. 
 
 We needed a solicitor for our order, and employed 
 our friend Mr. C. P. Cooper, our gentlemanly conduc- 
 tor, for that responsible position, and made him an 
 honorary member also, and he did his work nobly, 
 as he can do all he takes in hand, and at each station 
 he furnished us a fresh candidate, and between each 
 station the degree was conferred, so that the order 
 flourished beyond our most sanguine expectations, and 
 we can assure you it was healthy. The ceremonies 
 were very solemn, impressive and interesting, particu- 
 larly impressive, and varied to suit the various can- 
 didates. For instance, our two jolly good friends, 
 Clinton and Fullerton, (very healthy gentlemen too, 
 by the way,) were our first victims. They were poked 
 into our compartment beaming with smiles. All within 
 was quiet; calm and death-like stillness prevailed; 
 but no sooner had the train pulled away from the 
 station than Grand Mogul — the Doctor — vociferously 
 yelled in his deep basso voice we have heretofore 
 
148 Crusade to Europe 
 
 alluded to, "for the two villains to take off their hats." 
 All sat looking on solemnly, and the poor fellows looked 
 around in blank astonishment at this stern command, 
 and, we presume, during their thoughts forgot to carry 
 it out, at least the hats did not come off as briskly as 
 should have been done, so in an instant the hands of 
 the '' Quartette '' swept off the head coverings as though 
 by magic, portions of their natural capillary substance 
 with them. " Sit down," yelled the Grand Mogul in a 
 still louder and deeper voice, and, of course, there were 
 no places for the poor fellows to rest their weary, 
 trembling bodies, when immediately four hands placed 
 them in a horizontal position. This latter part of the 
 imposing ceremonies they attempted to resent, it was 
 getting pretty warm in there, so oflF went coats and 
 hats ; and handling the candidates thusly until we reach- 
 ed the next station, we inculcated into them, practi- 
 cally and thoroughly, the beauties of Submission, and 
 on the stoppage of the train we were all serenely settled 
 for another unsubmissive victim. Along ciime our hard 
 working Solicitor with poor Dr.Wm. M. Herron. We 
 felt sorr}^ for the Doctor, as he was suffering consid- 
 erably from an attack of rheumatism, but he, with all 
 other fellow mortals, must be taught the principles of 
 our order. Yet he did look like a lamb led to the 
 slaughter. We dealt with hiui as gently as possible, 
 however — put him on the broad of his back, and six 
 or seven sat down on him. 
 
 We got fearfully weak in the back when we tackled 
 
OK Allegheny Commanderv. , 149 
 
 our venerable prelate, Sir Wm. H. Slack. He wore his 
 usual serene countenance, a merry twinkle was in his eye 
 as he surmised some job was afloat, and was smoking the 
 inevitable " tobie." With all our combined force it was 
 as much as we could do to plant the professor on the back 
 of his " Prince Albert," but having him once there, his 
 stately person made an excellent cushion for the valiant 
 Knights of Submission, while the combined whoops in the 
 victim's ears would have done credit to the noble Sioux 
 warriors. Poor Stackhouse ! will any ever forget him ? 
 he wasn't well at all. He was a lover of our favorite 
 American garden vegetable, the cucumber ; he didn't 
 feel good nohow ; we put him through in haste, and as 
 tenderly as possible. Then thei'e was Eyster and Levis, 
 always prim, neat and just so ; of course they suffered 
 fearfully. Levis bought two new pairs of eye-glasses in 
 Dublin, and Eyster — well, George didn't wear any, else 
 he would have been necessarily compelled to go and do 
 likewise. Theh there was our friend who had had the 
 trouble with the custom house officers at Queenstown, 
 and with the barber at Cork ; we refer to the gentleman 
 of the peculiar moustache, and it was a much meditated 
 upon question whether to run the risk of having our eyes 
 put out in initiating him or not, but we accepted the 
 danger, and he — well he went with our two last friends 
 and bought himself a new moustache. 
 
 Our good friend, Fred Beilstein, was commanded to 
 take off his coat in the presence of the Grand Mogul. 
 No, he wouldn't do it ; the result was, he was but as an 
 
150 Crusade 'io Europe 
 
 infant in there, strong and all as he is; and we'll guarantee 
 Mrs. B. has every reason to be thankful, for if her 
 husband will not carry up the coal, cut the kindling 
 wood and start the fire on cold mornings — we simply 
 hint — several members of the order live in the city in 
 which her husband resides, and can most effectually put 
 him through again if necessary and in the shortest kind 
 of metre. 
 
 Seeing that we have so frequently committed our- 
 selves in exposing the forms and ceremonies of initiation, 
 we cannot see that much more harm can befall us by 
 giving the " passwords." They were " Sit down ! " given 
 in a loud tone of voice, and in a manner only members 
 could recognize, and the answer to that was, " Come 
 down and we'll make it pleasant for you." Yes, pleasant. 
 Exceedingly so. Thus the day passed, and it was a 
 terrible one, equaled only by one other to which we are 
 to come, and no one could adequately describe the 
 doings of that day. 
 
 At 5:30 P. M. we arrived in the famous Irish capital, 
 and were driven to Morrison's Hotel, where we had 
 supper, then the " Quartette " made for a shaving saloon. 
 We struck one, and even in so large a place as Dublin it 
 was not much better than our experience in Cork. We 
 got scraped, returned to the hotel and retired early. In 
 the morning some ill-disposed wretches stuffed the toes 
 of the " Majah's " and Colonel's shoes with wads of 
 newspapers, and only the ever-ready corkscrew of the 
 Colonel relieved the necessity of their staying indoors 
 that day, or buying a new pair of " brogans." 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 After breakfast the " Quartette " procured a jaunbing- 
 ear and were soon down to work at sight-seeing in the 
 Irish capital. We had a hard day's work of it, for Dub- 
 lin being a very old city, full of interesting objects and 
 points of interest for strangers, and our visit to this- 
 ancient city being confined to one da}', everj^ moment of 
 our limited time was fully occupied, and to advantage. 
 
 Dublin is situated on the river Liffey, which, running- 
 from, east to Avest, divides the city into nearly two equal 
 parts, and upon a noble ba}' bearing tlie same name as 
 the city. 
 
 This famous old Irish city contains about 300,000 
 inhabitants, represented in religion by about these 
 figures : Catholics, 240,000 ; Episcopalians, 40,000 \ 
 Presbyterians, 5,000, and of various other denominations,. 
 5,000. It contains many fine buildings and is the seat 
 of the famed Trinity College, and has beautiful parks^ 
 botanical gardens, museums, a picture gallery, and thea- 
 tres. We visited first the Bank of Ireland, which build- 
 ing was formerly used by the Irish House of Lords, 
 which was begun in the seventeenth century and cost 
 £4,000. Originally intended for a hospital it became 
 successively the seat of justice and a mansion. The 
 present building, however, was commenced in 1'I29 and 
 completed in 1*187, costing altogether £95,000. The com- 
 pany of the Bank of Ireland purchased it in 1802, for 
 the sum of £40,000 and an annual rental of £240. There 
 is nothing particularly striking about the building itself, 
 it being like all others over there, evidently erected to 
 
■152 Crusade to Europe 
 
 stay. It is somewhat semi-circular in shape, with a beau- 
 tiful colonnade of Ionic columns facing College Green, 
 and a portico in the centre, in the tympanum of which 
 is placed the Royal Arras, appropriatelj^ surmounted by 
 emblematical figures of Hibernia, Commerce and 
 Fidelit}'. The entrance to the former House of Lords 
 was by a portico on the eastern side, the columns 
 presenting the anomaly of the Corinthian order. The 
 figures here are Fortitude, Liberty and Justice. The 
 House of Lords to which visitors are admitted remains 
 unaltered, save that the site of the throne is occupied 
 by a statue of King George III. — America's sincere and 
 great friend. (?) The chairs as used b}"- the lords, are 
 still in their places, the long ta,ble in the centre aud the 
 old tapestry hangs upon the walls. This has on the left 
 a representation of King William crossing the Bo_yne, 
 with poor Schomberg expiring almost under his horse's 
 feet ; and on the right the siege of Derry. Both these 
 pieces of fine needle work, which eclipse all efforts of 
 our American ladies with their fancy work, are in most 
 excellent state of preservation. 
 
 Tlie mantle-piece in this room is very deserving of 
 notice, being formed of dark Kilkenny marble, beau- 
 tifully- sculptured. We were kindlj^ shown, by an 
 attendant clad in livery that for gorgeousness would 
 make a United States Major General's handsome uni- 
 form actuall}^ appear shabby, the interesting operation 
 of printing bank notes. 
 
 Directly opposite the Bank stands Trinity College, 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. . 153 
 
 a handsome Coriuthian structure. It was founded under 
 authorit}^ of Pope John XXII, closed in the time of 
 Henry VIII, and re-opened in the reign of his daughter, 
 Queen Elizabeth, who incorporated it in 1592, as the 
 College of the Holy and Undivided Ti'inity. 
 
 James I. and Charles II. befriended the College, 
 for it had fallen to a very low ebb after tlie civil 
 wars of the protectorate, endowing it with laiids in 
 Ulster and other parts. Private individuals also made 
 liberal bequests, among others those of Erasmus Smith 
 are deservedly esteemed, seeing that no less than five 
 professorships have been endowed by him alone. 
 
 For a thorough good education, practical in its 
 results, it exceeds, perhaps, Yale, Oxford or Cam- 
 bridge, although not bearing the same name for enter- 
 ing young men into society as either of the last named, 
 which should be the best recommendation it could 
 have. It is built of Portland stone, and measures 300 
 feet in length, the color of the stone is black, and 
 though plain, is very beautiful in appearance. At the 
 entrance are very handsome statues of Burke, Folej^ 
 and Groldsmith, cast in bronze. 
 
 1'he Museum of the College, though small, contains 
 a very fine collection of birds, the specimens being 
 in the best of condition, and in fact all but complete. 
 Among the antiquities are the old charter-horn of 
 King O'Kavanagh, and an ancient Irish harp, said 
 to have belonged to Brien Boroimhe. The examination 
 hall is hung with portraits of illustrious characters, 
 
154 Crusade to Europe 
 
 some of them originally students of the College, such 
 as Dean Swift, Bishop Berkely, Archbishop King, Lord 
 O'Neil, and others. In this hall is Hewitson's noble 
 monument to the memory of the Provost Baldwin, a 
 liberal benefactor to the College, who died in 1158. 
 This monument, which is placed on the west side of the 
 room, is composed of black and white marble, with 
 the addition of Egyptian porphyry. It is emblem- 
 matical, and represents the Provost' in a reclining 
 position, with an angel at his feet holding a palm 
 branch, while the genius of the university bends over 
 him. Then there is the dining room, containing por- 
 traits of Grattan, Lord Avonmore, Lord Chief Justice 
 Downs, Frederick, Prince of Wales, the father of 
 George III., and others. A handsome granite bell 
 tow^er, ornamented by four statues t3qDifying Divinity, 
 Medicine, Law and Science, was erected at the sole 
 cost of the late Primate Beresford. 
 
 The Library is perhaps the most interesting por- 
 tion of the College, is 210 feet in length. It is 
 entitled by law to a copy of every work published in 
 Great Britain, and contains at present about 250,000 
 volumes. There is one single collection in one portion 
 which belonged to one person, Baron Fagel,and contains 
 about 22,000 volumes, most of which are very rare, 
 there being one copy of the Gospels, a Latin copy, 
 known as the Book of Kells, and attributed to Saint 
 Col umbo, who lived in the sixth centur3^ 
 
 In College Green is an equestrian statue, in lead. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. . 155 
 
 of William III., erected in ITOl. The figures are 
 bronzed and gilt, presenting rather an imposing ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 Dublin, like every other town, has a castle, but not 
 so imposing a one by any means as many others, as it 
 was not intended in its day for defense against invaders 
 from foreign countries, but simply for the protection 
 of its peaceful citizens against the attacks of unruly 
 neighbors. 
 
 The Royal Chapel is worth a visit, it being one of 
 the handsomest wood-carved churches in the kingdom, 
 the gallery around the pulpit being surrounded by the 
 elegantly carved coats-oi-arms of all the Lieutenant- 
 Governors of Ireland, from 1113 to 18t4; and it is 
 now the place of worship of the present Lieutenant- 
 Governor, his family and household. A new handsome 
 pulpit, the gift of the late Lord Carlisle, has lately 
 been erected at the northeast side, and is entered from 
 one of the pilasters, no stair-case being visible from 
 the Chapel. Over the altar window, which is of painted 
 glass representing the Passion, are figures of Faith, 
 Hope and Charity. The Chapel was opened in 1814. 
 
 St. Patrick's Hall, or the Grand Ball Room, is a 
 spacious apartment, appropriately ornamented ; the 
 empannelled ceiling bears in its centre a large allegor- 
 ical painting of George III., supported by Justice and 
 Liberty. In it are also chairs for the Queen and the 
 Prince and Princess of Wales, which tliej' all sat in 
 when here in 1861. Of course, we all " obsquatulated'' 
 
156 ' Crusade to Europe 
 
 ourselves into each of the three chairs. Then the 
 Royal Palace is to be seen, where Queen Yictoria also 
 sat in 1861, and, of course, we " sitted " therein too. 
 
 An Act of Parliament was passed August 10, 1854, 
 to provide for the estahlishment of a " National Gallery 
 of Paintings, Sculpture and the Fine Arts," for the 
 care of a public library, and the erection of a public 
 museum, and the building was begun in 1859, and 
 opened in 1864, and cost £29,000. We next visited 
 the Cathedral of St. Patrick. Tliis venerable saint 
 erected a place of worship near the well in which he 
 baptized his converts. The present building was begun 
 by Archbishop Comjai, in 1190, though the original 
 building was founded in 890. In 1362, the Cathedral 
 was accidentally destroyed by fire, but was re-built and 
 decorated in 1370, by Archbishop Minot. The building 
 is cruciform, consisting of nave, transepts, choir and 
 lad}' chapel. Many monuments decorate the interior ; 
 in the chapel is a tablet to the memory of the Duke 
 of Schomberg, with an inscription by Dean Swift, at 
 one time Dean of the Cathedral. Then there is a mon- 
 ument to the Earl of Cork, consisting of black marble, 
 decorated with wood carving, gilding and painting, 
 and represents the Earl and his lady in recumbent 
 positions, surrounded by their children, sixteen in num- 
 ber. In close proximity are two marble slabs, which 
 mark the resting place of Dean Swift, and Mrs. Hester 
 Johnston, the " Stella " of his poetry-. The Cathedral 
 has been entirely restored since 1860, at the sole cost 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. . 157 
 
 of the late Sir B. L. Guinness, tlie celebrated brewer, 
 who expended upwards of £140,000 upon it. 
 
 The General Post Office is a building of considerable 
 beauty, surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercury 
 and Fidelity. Nelson's Monument, a tall, fluted column 
 121 feet high, exclusive of the statue, stands beside the 
 post office, and cost £6,856, raised by- subscription. 
 
 The Four Courts we visited with Judge Moreland, 
 but no courts were in session save the Court of Chan- 
 cery, and we were deprived of the pleasure of hearing 
 a good Irish speech from one or more of their learned 
 barristers. 
 
 The Four Courts is termed that, from the courts of 
 the Queen's Bench, Chancery, Exchequer, and Common 
 Pleas, being situated Avithin one building. The present 
 structure was commenced on the site of a decayed 
 Dominican monastery, in 17*76. and it was finished in 
 1800, and cost £200,000. (It will be observed they 
 know how to spend money in Ireland quite as well as in 
 Pittsburgh, Allegheny, &c.) A handsome Corinthian 
 portico occupies the centre and over it rises a finely 
 proportioned pediment, bearing on its upper angle a 
 colossal statue of Moses ; the other angles bear like 
 statues of Mercy and Justice; and on the corners ai'e 
 statues of Wisdom and Authorit3^ The great hall is 
 circular, and sixty-four feet in diameter ; and serves as a 
 common hall, with exits to the different special courts. 
 It is illuminated by jets of gas issuing from a torch 
 borne in the hands of a colossal statue of Truth. 
 
158 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Another statue, that of Sir M, O'Loghlen, by McDowell, 
 is worthy of notice. 
 
 We then visited Christ's Church Cathedral, some- 
 times styled the " Church of the Holy Trinity." This 
 building was commenced in 1038, and has quite an inter- 
 esting history in connection with its age. It was made 
 the repository for various relics, and among others the 
 shrine of St. Cubic, stolen by the people of Dublin from 
 the Welsh. It was in this Cathedral that the church 
 liturgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. 
 In 1553, Queen Mary ordered mass performed in the 
 Cathedral, which was done for six years, when the 
 reformed style of worship was restored. This place of 
 worship is a great attraction to those fond of display of 
 a cathedral service, which is performed every Sunday at 
 eleven o'clock by a full choir. Henry Roe, distiller, 
 expended £200,000 in the restoration of the building to 
 its present beaut3^ 
 
 From the centre of Carlisle Bridge, so called in honor 
 of Lord Carlisle, who was viceroy at the time when the 
 bridge was commenced in It 82; is obtained one of the 
 most interesting views within the city. 
 
 In front of City Hall is Hogan's statue of O'Connell ; 
 the Hall contains a celebrated statue of Grattan, with 
 the appropriate inscription — 
 
 FILIO 
 
 OPTIMO CARISSIMO 
 
 HENRICO GRATTAN 
 
 PATRIA 
 
 NON INGRATA 
 
 1829. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 159 
 
 In Aungier street, we find at Iso. 12, a queer looking old 
 house, the birth-place of Moore. In this house the Bard 
 of Erin was born on May 28th, 1180. 
 
 Surrounding Stephen's Green are the finest houses in 
 the city. Fronting upon it are the Royal College of 
 Surgeons, and the Ro^^al College of Science, the Catholic 
 Universit}^, the Shelbourne Hotel, and St. Vincent's 
 Hospital. In the centre of the Green is a statue of 
 George II. 
 
 We then drive to Phoenix Park, the Hyde Park of 
 Dublin and the Central Park of New York. It covers 
 an area of 1150 statute acres, and is well planted with 
 timber. Deer are plentiful, and as in other extensive 
 grounds where they are frequently caressed by visitors, 
 are very tame and docile. The park is beautifully laid 
 out in walks and drives, and handsome flower beds. 
 The first object noticeable is the obelisk — the Wellington 
 Testimonial — erected in 1817, b}' his fellow townsmen of 
 Dublin, to testify their great esteem for him as a military 
 commander. It cost £20,000. 
 
 The Carlisle memorial statue which is placed in the 
 " People's Pai'k" is a successful work of art by Fole3^ 
 It commemorates the Lord Lieutenancy of the late Lord 
 Carlisle, who for six 3'ears acted in that capacit}^ To 
 the right, near the entrance of the park, is the military 
 hospital, with a fine granite front, ornamented with a 
 clock tower and cupola, also the constabulary barrack, 
 where each member of the corps spends a portion of his 
 time in training in tlie use of arms and other military 
 
i6o Crusade to Eurohe 
 
 exercises, subsequent to enlistment, and tlie zoological 
 garden, and the summer residence of the Lord Lieutenant, 
 and we are through with the park. 
 
 Returning to the city we proceed to the exhibition 
 palace, a very elegant building, composed of iron and 
 glass, with a large concert hall to accommodate 3,000 
 persons and one to accommodate 1,500 persons, a lecture 
 room to hold 500 persons, a practice room for a large 
 orchestra, and a dining room one hundred and seven feet 
 in length and thirty feet wide, and there are also exten- 
 sive picture galleries, constructed on the most improved 
 principles. The hall, which has its floor laid with 
 encaustic tiles, forms a permanent sculpture court. On 
 entering, the cascade at the end of the pleasure garden 
 is seen in the distance from the hall, which witli its Caen 
 stone columns with carved capitals, and those of the pic- 
 ture gallei'y, form a very effective design. 
 
 In the centre of the building is an elegant fountain 
 with groups of figures representing Leinster, Munster, 
 Ulster and Connaught. At the southern end is a pic- 
 turesque grotto fountain, surmounted by a figure of Erin, 
 and most natural in its construction, beautifully covered, 
 with plants of various descriptions. 
 
 During our visit to Dublin, the annual rose show was 
 in exhibition at the palace, and such a display of those 
 beautiful flowers we have never seen ; every possible 
 variety and family, and had we not seen the size of 
 some and been told of them, we could not possibly have 
 been led to believe it ; oh ! how rich and beautiful they 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. , i6i 
 
 were ; and such a collection of pansies ; while the frag- 
 rance filled the air so sweetly, we should have loved to 
 have remained forever in that approach to the dwellings 
 of the fairies. 
 
 But we cannot stop to describe minutely all the 
 buildings of prominence with which Dublin abounds, for 
 our time is limited and we must hurry on. There is the 
 Custom House, in the centre of the front of which is a 
 fine allegorical composition, representing Britannia and 
 Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchantmen ap_ 
 proaching, and Neptune driving away famine and despair. 
 An attic story rises behind the pediment and on this are 
 placed right above the doric columns of the portico, 
 colossal statues of navigation, wealth, commerce and in- 
 dustry. On the north side it is decorated with well 
 designed figures representative of Europe, Asia, America 
 and Africa. Then there is the Mechanics Institution and 
 the Royal Hibernian Academy, erected in 1824, for the 
 promotion of the fine arts. 
 
 In Britain street is the gloomy building named New- 
 gate, the scene of poor Lord Fitzgerald's death in 1798r 
 where in the same year the barristers, Henry and John 
 Sheares, with John McCann, Secretar}^ to the Leinster 
 Committee of United Irishmen, were all executed for 
 high treason. We then come to King's Inns, a beauti- 
 ful and imposing building. The Library is a new build- 
 ing erected in 1827, and cost £20,000. But we must 
 hastily pass over Stephen's Hospital, the Royal Hospital, 
 the Corn Exchange, Linen Hall, Conciliation Hall, the 
 
 K 
 
1 62 Crusade to Europe 
 
 scene of the great O'Connell triumphs ; St. Mary's 
 Church, St. Michael's Church, St. Andrew's Church, one 
 of the oldest chapels in Dublin ; St. jSiicholas' Church, 
 and many other interesting points. And feeling that we 
 had done a hard day's work, we returned to our hotel 
 about 6 P. M., for dinner, and to prepare for the recep- 
 tion to be tendered us on that evening by Lodge No. 33 
 of Ireland, and presided over by the Grand Officers of 
 the Provincial Grand Lodge of Ireland. 
 
 At 8 o'clock a committee called and escorted us in a 
 body to the Masonic Temple, where the Grand Officers 
 of the Grand Lodge of Ireland were in special session to 
 receive us. Here we saw the Masonic work of Great 
 Britain exemplified, and about 10 o'clock we were con- 
 ducted through the building, which was illuminated 
 throughout for our benefit, and they have a very hand- 
 some building indeed. A strange but beautiful feature 
 in their commandery room is the reflection upon the 
 windows (stained glass,) which has the appearance of 
 the lights being on the opposite or outside of the 
 windows. The Prince of Wales, his brother the Duke of 
 Connaught, and several other dukes and earls, have their 
 own chairs here, with their coats-of-arms engraved there- 
 on. We were then conducted to the large and spacious 
 banquet hall, where an elegant repast was spread, 
 consisting of meats, vegetables, etc., in many courses, as » 
 well as all the delicacies of the season in fruits, not only 
 of their own, but also of our own and other countries, 
 common with us, but rare there. We spent with our 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. . 163 
 
 brethren of Dublin an evening that shall never be forgot- 
 ten ; the social and fraternal kindness shown us by each 
 and every individual was truly great and beyond any 
 anticipation. Speeches and songs were indulged in, and 
 loud were the shouts of applause and cheers that rang 
 through that hall upon Deputy Grand Master Shekleton 
 concluding his address of welcome, which was cheerfully 
 responded to by our Em. Commander, Lee S. Smith. 
 But the palm of the evening, notwithstanding the fact 
 that most of the presiding officers there were Dublin's 
 pick of barristers, was our little Captain-General's reply 
 to the toasts of " Our American brethren " and the 
 " President of the United States," when our modest and 
 unassuming friend, Sir William C. Moreland, arose, and 
 in his slow, quiet manner commenced his remarks, every 
 word and sentence measured, weighed and counted. He 
 spoke for three-quarters of an hour, and seemed in such 
 excellent trim for it, the words seemingly rolling from 
 him as pouring water from a bucket. His language, elo- 
 quence and oratory, of which he is the most gifted person 
 in our knowledge, were simply grand, and with what 
 wonderful beauty his periods were rounded, equaled 
 only on one occasion, viz : on his address at Library 
 Hall, New Year's Eve, 1816, when his vivid and 
 eloquent description of Samson being brought forth 
 from his dreary prison, to bring, in a few moments, 
 death to so many of his enemies, none will ever 
 forget who heard him. It took some time to settle 
 down after the cheers and applause of the Major's 
 address, and no more speechifying for that evening. 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 Several songs were given by one or two of their 
 members, and by Mr. Slack and one or two others 
 of our party ; by the way, one by Col. McConihe, 
 who has a very sweet tenor voice — no, we were mis- 
 taken, it wasn't the Colonel either. The meeting was 
 closed by prayer by Sir Knight Dr. Robinson, of 
 Dublin, chaplain of the body we visited. The doctor 
 is one of the finest scholars and linguists in the woi'ld, 
 being a good grammatical teacher of thirteen languages. 
 Thus we were received in Dublin, and to one and all of 
 our Dublin friends we can truthfully say, for all our 
 party, it was an evening spent that will ever be remem- 
 bered as one of the brightest of our Crusade. 
 
 We said the Colonel didn't sing there that evening; 
 no, that's -so, he didn't. We remember now, the "Quar- 
 tette " was broken on that evening ; Smith, Moreland 
 and " Carlisle " attended the banquet, a,nd we appointed 
 the Colonel a committee of one from the " Quartette " 
 to prepare an " itinerary^'''' at which he was an admira- 
 ble adept. We just left it all to the Colonel, and he 
 did his work nobly, having it ahead as far as London 
 when we were in Dublin ; but on our coming back 
 to the hotel after the reception, we were surprised 
 not to see the Colonel busily engaged at his allotted duty, 
 he had concluded to go the theatre. The Colonel was 
 a wonderfull}^ self-denial man. 
 
 Morrison's Hotel, at which we stopped, we are sorry 
 to say, was not quite "A 1," and up to the mark, meals 
 being very poor, attendance worse, and house accommo- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ' 165 
 
 dation not much better. We are perfectly willing, how- 
 ever, to make all due allowances for the latter, as the 
 house was undergoing improvements ; but we must repeat 
 that the bill of fare, and particularly the attendance, 
 was very poor. It was, however, the only place at which 
 we stopped on our whole tour that was not strictlj^ first- 
 class, and up to the letter of the contract. We will 
 never forget poor Baker at this hotel, the morning we 
 left, and didn't get his breakfast — the look of disgust on 
 Baker's face, to any incoming travelers, would have 
 killed an}^ hotel dead. 
 
 The next portion of our letter brings us to one 
 of the most pleasant portions of our tour anj^where, 
 viz : a day with our brethren of Enniskillen ; and we 
 are almost afraid to tell how those, noble, big-hearted, 
 grand Irishmen — we cannot use better words than call 
 them genuine Irishmen — received and treated us, for 
 fear of a whole batch of American Masonic bodies 
 packing up and going over there and taking those 
 good people completely by storm ; but even with that 
 risk, we cannot refrain from relating one of the most 
 glorious days of the Pilgrimage, so that our good 
 friends of Enniskillen must not hold us accountable 
 if we are the cause of a wholesale imposition upon 
 their kindness and good nature. 
 
1 66 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ^ette'dr Mo. 5. 
 
 Dublin to Enniskillen, Londonderry, Giants' Cause- 
 ■way and Belfast. — Riding on an Irish Locomotive. — 
 A Grand Day Spent -with a Glorious People. — A 
 Gala Day -with True Friends and the Ladies of 
 Enniskillen. — Incidents by the "Way. 
 
 ^^^jr%N Thursday morning, July 17th, at 9 A. M., we 
 %CW took train for Londonderr}^, as prescribed upon 
 our schedule, but tlirough the kuidness of our 
 agent, Mr. E. M. Jenkins, subsequent to the arrangement 
 of the tour, and being earnestl}^ solicited to spend a 
 short time at Enniskillen, and from the pressing manner 
 of the invitation we were induced to break our route, to 
 accept the invitation so warmly and cordially tendered, 
 our warm friends of that old city contracting to make 
 up all lost time, and place us again on schedule time 
 table, and had we not done so, had we missed that day, 
 we should never have forgiven ourselves, and knowing 
 what we do now, we should rather have omitted half a 
 dozen other places and- sights, than the pleasure of one 
 shake of the hand with those good people. We, never 
 having been there, presumed it would be rather an in- 
 formal affair in that little inland town; but on our arrival 
 there at 1 P. M., the hearty social welcome tendered to 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. • 167 
 
 each and every one of our party, made us feel so much 
 at home, that we have many times regretted our visit 
 was not lengthened there to as many days or weeks, as 
 we were there hours. On our way to Enniskillen, pass- 
 ing through a beautiful country, we were kindly per- 
 mitted to ride upon the engine drawing our train, and 
 thei*e to see how the engineer handles the " throttle" on 
 one of those " blarsted British engines," and it may not 
 prove uninteresting to know how they railroad in that 
 country. 
 
 The road on which we are traveling is single track, 
 the engine is not so fine looking as are our American 
 locomotives, not so handsomely finished, nor so symmet- 
 rical looking in its entirety ; the engineer has no " cab," 
 and consequently is continually exposed to the inclemen- 
 cies of the weather, and while on duty is not permitted 
 to sit down under any circumstances. They have, how- 
 ever, a method for running trains on single line tracks, 
 that is assuredly a preventative to railroad collisions, in- 
 stead of b}^ telegraphic and written orders as we do; it is 
 done in this wise : To use an illustration : — Say for in- 
 stance we use our Union Depot in Pittsburgh as a start- 
 ing pointj^iid the city of Philadelphia the next nearest 
 stopping station, just before a train would leave the 
 Union Depot, the train dispatcher hands the engineer of 
 the train a wooden block, say six or eight inches long, 
 on which would be a brass plate engraved " Pittsburgh 
 to Philadelphia ;" this he places in a socket for the pur- 
 pose in his cab, or where the -cab should be, then he 
 
1 68 Crusade to Europe 
 
 starts with his train, liaving the right of way on that 
 stretch to Philadelphia, he then hands the block to the 
 depot master or train dispatcher at Philadelphia, and is 
 again given one stamped say, " Philadelphia to New 
 York" and so on according to distance or schedule time 
 consumed in running his distance. 
 
 Now there being but one of these blocks for use be- 
 tween any of these points named, the engineer, and he 
 onl}'^, holding the same has the right of way between the 
 two points for which he carries the block ; so it will be 
 perceived the chances of collision or colliding are an im- 
 possibility, for on a train reaching Philadelphia coming 
 west the engineer could not, and dare not enter the next 
 block until the train bound east on that block reaches 
 Philadelphia, and they exchange their " wooden orders" 
 at that point. Such a system is much slower, of course, 
 than ours, but it is entirely and absolutely safe and 
 secure against accidents, such as telescoping, &c. 
 
 As stated, at 1 P. M. we arrived ^at Enniskillen, which 
 is the chief town of the county Fermanagh and contains 
 about six thousand inhabitants. It is built on an island 
 in the river connecting the Upper and Lower Lough 
 Erne. The principal manufacture is cutlerjr ; a consider- 
 able quantity of straw-plait is made in the neighborhood, 
 and the butter market is one of the best in the kingdom. 
 The town is quite an important military station, contain- 
 ing large barracks, and two forts to command the pass 
 across the river. But we prefer to speak more of the 
 people of Enniskillen, their generosity and goodness, 
 
OF Allegheny Commandeky. 
 
 than of the town itself, foi" though on every hand while 
 on our tour kindness was only known to us from the 
 people we had the pleasure of meeting and visiting, yet 
 going tliere, to every one of them being entire strangers, 
 and tliey to us tlie same, the magnanimous reception 
 accorded us on that day will ever remain one of the 
 brightest and greenest spots in our memory of our Euro- 
 pean Crusade. 
 
 Through the kindness of railway officials our effects 
 were permitted to remain in our cars, and during our 
 stop in Enniskillen were sent by special train to the 
 lower end of the Lough to await our coming by steamer. 
 
 Arriving at Enniskillen, as stated, we were impressed 
 with the idea that " Barnum'' was exhibiting in the 
 neighborhood of the depot, for we are prone to believe 
 not one single person of the six thousand inhabitants 
 was missing, from the crowd that greeted us on our 
 arrival there. 
 
 We were received by Dr. 0. Ternan, Past Pro- 
 vincial Senior Grand Warden ; Pro. W, Jones, W. M., 
 of 891 of Ireland, and Dep. Provincial Grand Master 
 Col. J. G. Irvine, D. L., High Sheriff of County Fer- 
 managli, and after a hearty handshaking and welcome 
 by these brethren, we were conducted down to the Royal 
 Victoria Hotel. The streets were crowded with the good 
 people of Emiiskillen, they coming up indiscriminately to 
 our side, engaging us in conversation, and exchanging 
 many pleasant words with us ; wliile it was a most amus- 
 ing sight to see the " wee Irishmen " and " wee Irish 
 
lyo Crusade to Eurui'e 
 
 lasses," to the number of four or five gross, perched on 
 the fences like chickens at roost, getting a good square 
 look at the " Yankees," with loud cheers of pleasure from 
 their good hearty lungs. Reaching the hotel, we were 
 immediately taken into the dining-hall, where, if such a 
 thing were possible, a banquet exceeding even that of 
 Dublin was prepared and in waiting for us, the table 
 being profusely covered with beautiful baskets, pillars 
 and columns of exquisite cut flowers, the air filled with 
 their sweet perfume, while on every napkin was pin and 
 button-hole bouquets, all prepared by the young ladies 
 of the town. Even in that little place the table was 
 laden with all the delicacies of the season, and with the 
 notorious appetites each had, and was obtaining, we can 
 vouch for the fact that Allegheny Commandery did not 
 have a black mark on that occasion, for any remissness, 
 in duty. Each Sir Knight stood by his post nobly, de- 
 termined to die ere having the stigma of traitor or traitor 
 attached to his name, and for " A 1 " staying qualities, 
 commend us to our worthy friends the Doctor, Major and 
 the Colonel on such occasions. 
 
 We spoke of the young ladies of Enniskillen a moment 
 ago — ah ! there's the point ; such a collection of beauty, 
 rare opportunities are ever proffered for such a sight, 
 and we venture the very broad assertion, that the daugh- 
 ters, the young ladies of Enniskillen, are not excelled, 
 if equaled, in their briglit, rosy-red cheeks, their every 
 evidence of robnst health, laughing, sparkling eyes, and 
 teeth of pearl ; and there is where we married men who 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ■ 171 
 
 had left our wives at home, unwilUng sacrifices to mos- 
 quitoes and " sich," in vulgar pai'lance., had the inside 
 track on our venerable prelate, Professor Slack, and our 
 good friend Schroeder, who, by the way, was on his 
 bridal tour, and it was just about at this point that that 
 fact leaked out, though it was fearful to hear the Doctor, 
 vowing and declaring to some fair young lady of Ennis- 
 killen that such a thing as being married had never 
 been thought of by him ; and the Major, smiling sweetly, 
 captivating his fair hearer with some beautifully-worded 
 sentences, declaring it had ever been his desire to meet 
 some fair young lad}^ of the Emerald Isle who could love 
 him for himself, and curl his beautiful locks preparatory 
 to wending his way to the four courts of Grant, Fifth 
 avenue, Ross and Diamond streets ; wliile it was even 
 worse to hear tlie Colonel avowing himself to be a wid- 
 ower living on a full pay pension of the retired list of 
 Uncle Samuel's brave men; and Professor S., telling all 
 around that his wife, who accompanied him, was " Car- 
 lisle's " mother, and she his own sister ; and Schroeder — 
 well, we won't say anything about him, we'll let him off 
 easy ; and Dr. H., too, for we occasionally require the 
 latter gentleman to come and visit us ; but the Recorder 
 of the Commandery, feeling it to be his duty, gave each 
 young lady a roster of the Commandery, with a check 
 mark opposite the name of each, which fully explained 
 the bachelor or beiiedictine state of all. 
 
 After our banquet at the hotel, from which floated 
 the beautiful, grand old flag, the " Stars and Stripes," 
 
172 Crusade to Europe 
 
 alongside the British Union Jack, tlie lines were formed 
 and we proceeded to the Militia Barrack Quay, on 
 Lough Erne, but our proceeding tliere may be better 
 described than we could do it ourselves, by giving 
 an extract from the Fervianagh Mail^ the live paper 
 of Enniskillen. It sa3^s : 
 
 "About two o'clock the party proceeded to the 
 steamer " Ross Clare," which laj^ off the Militia Barrack 
 Quay, where the following awaited the excursionists: 
 Col. Irwin, D. L., High Sheriff of Tyrone, Deput}^ 
 Grand Master of T'yrone and Fermanagh ; Bro. Ternan, 
 Past Prov. Senior Grand Warden, and Mrs. and the 
 Misses Ternan, (3) ; Brother Price, Prov. G. S. B.; 
 Mrs. Innes, Dunbar, and her sister ; Miss Patterson, 
 Clenross ; Miss Molyneux; Brother W. C. Trimble, P. 
 M. 891; Miss Trimble; Brother Sinclair Trimble, 891; 
 Brother C. J. Jones, 891 ; Br©ther William Jones, W. 
 M., 891 ; Brother Edward Athill, P. M., 891 ; Miss 
 Athill ; Brother W. H. Morrison ; Miss Morrison ; 
 Brother J. McCausland, the Lusties ; Brother S. Arm- 
 strong, W. M., 473 ; Mrs. Armstrong ; Bro. Gunning ; 
 Bi'other B. Gamble ; Brother R.. C. Donnell, Newton- 
 stewart ; Mrs. Scott, O'Magh, and her sister ; Brother 
 Dr. Todd ; Brother Captain Irvine ; Bro. R. Fawcett, 
 Derripin ; Brother Dr. Fawcett; Brother G. Duggan ; 
 Mrs. O'Leary : Miss James ; Brother G. Elliott ; Miss 
 Elliott ; Brother J. Elliott and Mrs. Elliott ; Brother 
 G. Bradshaw ; Brother G. Pratt ; Brother W. Teele ; 
 Brother Ryan, Mrs. Ryan, Miss Ryan, &c., &c." 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. . 173 
 
 We would say here, by way of parenthesis, to the 
 Mail, who modestly' refrains to tell all the story, that 
 we were immediately taken round and introduced, and 
 soon were made to feel, from their general warm- 
 heartedness and sincere kindness, perfectly at home, 
 and were soon well acquainted — no half-way meeting 
 and greeting, but real, true whole-souled welcome. 
 
 To resume, the Mail says : "About half-past two, 
 the steamer was under weigh, that fact being signified 
 by the discharge of two guns from her stern. On 
 past Portora and Derr^^gore, the old castle and dev- 
 enish hoary with age, and rich In the memories of 
 the past and present, past Rossfad and Ross Clare, 
 Avhere the hotel looks down on one of the fairy scenes 
 of Ireland — looks down on a hundred islands clothed 
 in the ripe foliage of summer, rising gracefully as 
 swans from the water — looks down on projecting head- 
 land and receding bay, far stretching hills and moun- 
 tains that distend themselves to the horizon till sky 
 and mountain merge as one in a dim azure blue. 
 The various objects of attention en route were pointed 
 out, and as well as the intervals of refreshment and con- 
 versation would allow, the legendary stories in con- 
 nection were told. From Killalea's noble tower a 
 flag betokened a hearty greeting from the owner, 
 who so graciously made it convenient to be present 
 with us, when passing the Lusties, seven small 
 cannon thundered out with a salute, which was answered 
 by lusty cheers from the voyageurs on board ; and thus 
 
174 Crusade to Europe 
 
 with a bright sky overhead, and below the blue lake, and 
 away in the distance the green fields and the blue hills, 
 did the few hours pass — alas ! too quickly — while Amer- 
 icans and Irishmen exchanged ideas and related adven- 
 tures, and perhaps indulged in a little sentiment, for 
 there were many fair ladies on board. Dr. Robert Arm- 
 strong, of Belleek factor}^, iDresented each of his Ameri- 
 can brethren with one of his Masonic plates, on which 
 various symbols of the craft are described in order and 
 in artistic style, as a souvenir of our visit, the whole 
 illustrating the lectures of the three degrees as is shown 
 by an accompanying circular written by Mr. Armstrong, 
 and which alone would indicate that he is what is popu- 
 larl}^ known as a " bright Mason." 
 
 As the boat appoached the wooded shores of Castle 
 Caldwell Point, the Eminent Commander, Sir Lee S. 
 Smith, called our party together and said they had just 
 passed through scenes of singular beauty, and been the 
 recipients of great kindness and cordiality, and that the 
 beauty of Lough Erne and the kindness of Enniskillen 
 friends could not be excelled. Ireland was 
 
 " The gem of the ocean," 
 
 and Enniskillen the gem of the tour. 
 
 Therefore he called them to order for the purpose of 
 giving them an opportunit}^ of presenting their thanks 
 to the Enniskillen brethren as a testimonial of how the}^ 
 appreciated what had been done for them — (applause) 
 and to Brother Ternan. — (Cheers.) 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 175 
 
 Sir William C. Morelaiid, Captain-General, moved 
 that a committee of three be appointed to draw up suita- 
 ble resolutions expressive of the feelings of the party. 
 The motion was warmly adopted. The Commander then 
 proposed three rousing cheers, American cheers, for the 
 brethren who had done them such honor that day. The 
 cheers, and rousing ones at that, were immediately given, 
 and followed by three " sky-rockets " a peculiar American 
 style of showing approval, in which the " hiss " — 
 " boom " and " ah " are made to resemble the noise of 
 the pyrotechnic article from which it takes its name. 
 
 Brother Ternan was then called on, and in reply to 
 loud cries of " speech," then said that Irish Freemasons 
 were always delighted to meet their American brethren. 
 It had afforded the Ermiskilleners the greatest pride and 
 pleasure to bring so distinguished a company down the 
 lake, and he hoped they had enjoyed themselves. Their 
 " best " in Enniskillen was small, but they had done their 
 best to give their visitors a cordial Irish welcome, and 
 had they had more time, pei'haps more would have been 
 done. But there was a lesson here for outsiders. Years 
 had proved that brotherhood was not merely in name ; 
 and he was satisfied that if he went to America he would 
 be received in the same spirit. (Just come out and try. 
 Brother Ternan. In the motto of our noble Order, the 
 Knights of Submission, "We'll make it pleasant for 
 you.") Brother Ternan continued to say, that it was 
 his pride to be not only an Irish Mason, but an American 
 Mason by adoption, for they had adopted him into two ot 
 
176 Crusade to Europe 
 
 their encampments ; and if ever he crossed the Atlantic 
 he would find himself as a brother amongst brethren. 
 The Enniskillen brethren had entered into this matter 
 heartily, and none more so than Brother Armstrongs of 
 Belleek, whom he was glad to see they were about to 
 thank for his plate. Brother Ternan concluded by 
 giving a hearty welcome from the brethren of Fermanagh 
 and Tyrone, and wishing the American visitors a safe 
 and pleasant journey. (Cheers.) 
 
 Brother R. W. Armstrong having been called upon 
 amidst loud cheering, arose, and having a satchel in his 
 hand, and said that Brother Ternan's exhaustive speech 
 had left him nothing to say. But he was there as a bag 
 man (laughter,) and though he was bankrupt in words, 
 he was solvent in gratitude. It had been his honor to be 
 a member of this distinguished Order in Fermanagh for 
 twenty-five years, and he could state without fear of 
 contradiction, that no man would be as good and not 
 being a Freemason, as he would be if he were a Free- 
 mason. (Cheers.) From his knowledge of the world as 
 a Christian and as a Freemason, he held that religion 
 was a chain that binds man to Grod, and Freemasonry 
 the silver cord that binds man to his fellow man. 
 
 Sir Knight, Major W. C. Moreland, was then called 
 on to " speech," and in reply said that if he remained 
 long in Ireland he would be an Irishman. We had had 
 so many acts of kindness crowded upon them that one 
 place seemed to vie with another in showering its favors 
 upon them ; but he thought the handsomest Irish Masons 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 177 
 
 were to be foniicl amongst the Enniskillen party. (A 
 voice : What about the ladies ? The Major replied he 
 would come to that.) The Bmiiskilleu Masons were all 
 handsome men, and their remarkably intelligent appear- 
 ance was only equaled by the modesty with which they 
 had shown their good nature and hospitality. But there 
 was a star that outshone them all. , Not only had these 
 Enniskillen brethren brought their hospitality with 
 them, but they had also hrought their wives and daugh- 
 ters, their sisters and sweethearts, who were the crowning 
 glory of the Masonic fraternity. There was a young 
 lady in the party he had the good fortune to meet (you 
 see we told you so earlier in this letter, he was hap[)y,) 
 who had the good taste to say she would not marry a 
 man who was not a Freemason. (Must have gotten down" 
 to ''business" right quick; don't you think so, reader?) 
 He would never forget that sentiment so long as he 
 remembered the emerald green of old Ireland itself. 
 And as long as they had the attachment of their wives 
 and daughters for their brotherhood, all that could be 
 said against Freemasonry would not prevail ; no, it 
 would remain as long as the glorious sun kissed their 
 glorious hills and fertile valleys. The feeling of the 
 ladies will make you better and truer men, and more 
 constant lovers. Brother Moreland then proceeded in a 
 flowery strain of oratory suitable to the " silver-tongued 
 orator of Allegheny," to speak of the beauty of Ireland., 
 and concluded with thanks to his host. 
 
178 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Brother Slack, who had been round the excursion in 
 1811, and was warmly recognized b}^ Dr. Ternan, Price, 
 and others, then sang in truly good style, and with well 
 trained and cultivated voice the Masonic song, " We 
 meet upon the level and part on the square." 
 
 All this time we must not forget the scenery of the 
 lake on which we are sailing. Lower Lough Erne is 
 styled the Windermere of Ireland, although wanting the 
 varied picturesqueness of Killavney, it is undoubtedly a 
 charming lake, and abounds with interest to the artist, 
 the antiquary and the naturalist. It is studded with 
 little islets, which dip their luxuriant foliage into the 
 water, adding the beauties of a sylvan stream to the 
 placid sternness of a majestic lake. 
 
 To quote again from the Fermanagh Mail and 
 reporter ; " As we approached the landing, having 
 sailed the entire length of the Lake, sOme twenty miles, 
 two guns were fired, and the party disembarked at Castle- 
 Caldwell, walking through the demesne to the railwa}^ 
 station. Here Brother Calhoun, of Enniskillen, sang a 
 few verses of a " Warrior Bold," and " Carlisle" of 
 Alleghen}' Commandery, whom it appears they always 
 hold back to the last, made a beautiful flowery speech, 
 which brought forth tears from host and visitors. When 
 we heard those remarks, delivered in his own inimitable 
 style, it was then we wished the party w^ere only arriving 
 instead of leaving." (The reader is asked to please par- 
 don this little piece of Washington or Cocoanut or 
 Lemon thrown in by ourselves, for the Mail did n't say 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 179 
 
 anything of the kind.) " Here we took the special train 
 of first-class carriages, which was courteousl}' sent by 
 Mr. Henry Plews, in order that the American party 
 might make up anj^ lost time, and the excu.rsionists took 
 their seats, and amidst hearty farewells and waving of 
 handkerchiefs, tiie train started for the junctio'n, the 
 writer of this article having consented to a cordial invi- 
 tation to accompany the party to Derry. 
 
 The day spent at Enniskillen, so bright in its memory 
 of things pleasant, will ever be to ns an oasis in the 
 desert to the wearj^ and thirsty traveler — one full of 
 delightful remembrances, happy thoughts and pleasant 
 meetings. The warm shake of oar right hand will ever 
 feel the tingle of fraternal greeting and brotherlj^ love 
 as given us in the hearty grasp by our Enniskillen 
 friends, and that day the happiest spent hy this Com- 
 mandery on her second crusade. 
 
 The Fermanagh Repoiier thus speaks of the ride to 
 Derry. " What followed in one of the compartments of 
 the down train it is outside my duty to chronicle. 
 The inventive American genius had invented a special 
 degree for the occasion, and in one of the compartments 
 of our carriage sat the head of the Order of Submission, 
 the Grrand Mogul. The reader may smile, but perhaps 
 his face would have turned ashy pale if he had been 
 summoned to the august presence. Some gentlemen 
 held back, but the order could not be gainsayed. I was 
 summoned, like the rest, but pleaded that a paper collar 
 and paper cuffs were not fitting attire in which to enter 
 
I So Crusade to Europe 
 
 his highness' presence, and the Grand Mogul's Emissary 
 did not take time to examine into the truthfuhiess of my 
 statement, but subsequently informed me that the Gr. M. 
 had taken the facts into consideration, seeing that I was 
 away from home and the washerwoman, and in the com- 
 the company of ladies, and that he would postpone the 
 conferring of the 100th degree upon me until I had fur- 
 nished m}'^ wardrobe in Derry with such apparel as 
 would bear tlie strain. " We will make it pleasant for 
 you,'' said the valiant, submissive Knights near me ; but 
 I escaped the pleasure, and thus my hair remained un- 
 ruffled and my collar whole. 
 
 Let it not be imagined for one moment the gentlemen 
 had all the fun to themselves, for in the next compart- 
 ment, we heard the cries of ladies as if in distress, and 
 as looking out at tlie window, I espied two novices as if 
 endeavoring to escape from some tormentor within. 
 The}^ were undergoing initiation in some other degree 
 confined to the gentler sex." 
 
 'Twas here the Knights revolted against their head, 
 for we all made one sudden break, and laying Grand 
 Mogul Smith on the broad of his back, using his six-feet 
 eleven for a seat or foot-stool, made Col. McConihe 
 Regent ; but soon tiring of his outrageous sway of the 
 sceptre and his villainous decisions, we deposed him as 
 quickly and suddenly as we did Dr. Smith, and the Hon. 
 Judge Moreland was unanimously — not elected, but 
 " boosted" into his place. It was a fearful sight to see 
 the Major sitting on top of a pile of bags, coats, hats, 
 
OF Allegheny Commanderv. 
 
 newspapers, 'sandwiches, canes, dusters, &c., for a 
 throne — collar "busted," necktie flapping in the wind, 
 and face red with laughter. The Major may be very good 
 at running a law office, or conducting a fine case in our 
 Common Pleas or Criminal Courts, may cover himself 
 all over with glory in his addresses to jury and judges, but 
 he is a most complete failure in running a Knights of 
 Submission shop. He occupied the chair for about ten 
 seconds by the watch, and that was the winding up of 
 his bobbin — he soon occupied the horizontal position as 
 did our first-self elected G. M., when " Carlisle'' accepted 
 the crown and sceptre and ruled with legal sway — for 
 about tv/o minutes. 
 
 A committee received our party at Londonderry on 
 arrival there, but owing to our remaining so long at En- 
 niskillen, we were compelled to forego the pleasure of a 
 banquet and reception which our brethren of London- 
 derry had prepared for us. It was ten o'clock at night 
 when we reached Derrj'. 
 
 The Reporter and Mail again says : " Breakfast at 
 eight ; was the order that night ; it might not have been 
 given but for sake of formality. At ten minutes past 
 one the last geutlemau left the coffee-room, and at a 
 quarter past four they were down stairs again. ' The}^ 
 hardly ever sleep,' was observed to me concerning some 
 gentlemen of the party. One thing was clear. They 
 had come to Ireland for sight-seeing and determined to 
 make the most of the time." 
 
1 82 Crusade to Europe 
 
 In the morning the time-honored walls that witnessed 
 the defeat of the Jacobites and the heroism of its brave 
 defenders were traversed ; the Cathedral, with its bomb 
 of 1690, its colors taken from the French, and its organ 
 from the Spanish Armada, was visited ; also the Walker 
 colnmn, the great enduring monument of a great leader. 
 
 From the tower of the Cathedral could be traced the 
 winding banks of the Foyle, and the spot observed 
 where the boom was placed across the river, and which 
 gave to the shock of the " Mountjoy," and the Heights 
 of Clooney, where the army of King James lay en- 
 camped ; and we saw " Roaring Meg," that often hurled 
 defiance at the foe, and other guns of similar date. 
 
 . Londonderry is situated on the magnificent river 
 Foyle, just before it flows into the Lough of the same 
 name, and which more than half surrounds the hill on 
 which the city stands. 
 
 An abbey for regular canons of the Augustine order 
 was founded in Londonderry, in 546, by St. Columb- 
 kille, which will give some idea as to the youthful age of 
 the good old city of Derry. The town was fortified by 
 walls, which are still preserved as a promenade, and 
 there were six gates. 
 
 The four original gates were called the Bishop's 
 Gate, the Ship Quay Gate, the New Gate, and the Ferry 
 Port Gate. Between 1805 and 1808 the three fii'st were 
 built. The Bishop's Gate and Ship Quaj^'s Gate are 
 are alone embellished. The former is a triumphal arch. 
 
(JF Allegheny Commandery. 183 
 
 and was erected to the memory of William III, in 789, 
 by the corporation, with the concurrence of the Irisli 
 Society, at the centenary of the opening of the Grates. 
 
 From the tower of the Cathedral, a plain gothic 
 building, erected in 1633, may be had a magnificent view 
 of the neighborhood which it commands, but the most 
 interesting object in the town is the monument raised in 
 1828, to the memory of the Rev. George Walker, which 
 consists of a handsome doric column surmounted by a 
 statue. 
 
 From Gordon's History of Ireland, we find the follow- 
 ing account of the siege of Derry, which may here prove 
 an interesting item to those who have not read it, and 
 will serve to freshen the memories of those who have. 
 " A letter was dropped at Cumber, in the County Down, 
 where the Earl of Mount Alexander resided, dated 
 December 8, 1688, informing that nobleman that on 
 Sunday, December 9th, of that year, the Irish through- 
 out the whole island, in pursuance of an oath which they 
 had taken, were to rise and massacre the Protestants, 
 men, women and children ; and warning him to take 
 particular care of himself, as a captain's commission 
 would be the reward of the man who would murder him. 
 The Protestants were terrified ; several of them assem- 
 bled in groups about the streets. The apprentice boys, 
 with a mob of the lower orders muttered something 
 about closing the gates. They got some private 
 encouragement to do so at first, but that was soon 
 retracted and the minds of all the men fluctuated in a 
 
184 CrUSADK to EUROl'K 
 
 miserable doubt of the most prudent course to take. 
 Two companies of the Irish appeared on the opposite side 
 of the stream and were ferried over to make proposals for 
 entering the town, wliich was nearly betra3^ed into their 
 hands by the treachery of the deputy maj'^or, who was 
 inclined to favor James. The soldiers getting impatient 
 for the return of their officers, crossed tlie river and 
 were within three hundred j'-ards of the Ferry Gate. The 
 young men of the city observing this, about eight or 
 nine of them, whose names deserve to be preserved in 
 letters of gold, viz : Henry Campsie, William Crook- 
 shanks, Robert Sherrard, Alexander Irwin, James Stew- 
 ard, Robert Morrison, Alexander Connigliam, Samuel 
 Hunt, with James Spike, John Connigham, William 
 Cams, Samuel Harvey, and some others who soon joined 
 them, ran to the main guard, seized the keys after a 
 slight opposition, came to the Perry Gate, drew up the 
 bridge and locked the gate. Lord Antrim's soldiers had 
 advanced within sixty yards of it. Tlie siege lasted one 
 hundred and five da3^s, during which time the citizens 
 were reduced to the direst extremities. Reduced to the 
 ^xtremit}' of distress, and endeavoring to support the 
 remains of life bv such miserable food as the flesh of 
 dogs and vermin, even tallow and hides, nor able to find 
 more than two day's provision of such substance, the 
 garrison was still assured b}'' the harangues of Walker, 
 that God would relieve them ; and men reduced almost 
 to shadows made desperate sallies, but v;^ere unable to 
 pursue their advantage. The besiegers hnd thrown a 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 1S5 
 
 boom across the river to prevent navigation, and -Kirk, 
 the Orange admiral, had already been deterred by it 
 from attempting the relief of the town. At length two 
 provision ships and a frigate drew near to the city and 
 one ship dashed with giant strength against the barrier 
 and broke it in two, but, from the violence of the shock, 
 rebounded and ran upon the river's bank. The satisfac- 
 tion of the enemy was displayed by an instantaneous burst 
 of tumultuous joy. They ran with disorder to the shore, 
 prepared to board her, when the vessel firing a broadside 
 was extricated by the shock, and floated out nobly into 
 the deep again. It was calculated that twent3r-three 
 hundred persons died of famine or b^' violence during 
 the siege." 
 
 About a mile from the cit}^ is the Magee Protestant 
 College, a very handsome building which cost £20,000, 
 left by Mrs. Magee, of Dublin, for the purpose of train- 
 ing young men for the Presbyterian ministry in Ireland. 
 
 Time was fleeting and at 10 A. M. we were read}^ for 
 the road again. The railway company kindly placed at 
 our disposal the large saloon carriage of the Lord- 
 Lieutenant, with its glass sides and two mirrors. The 
 ride along the coast was charming. On the one side lay 
 well tilled fields and proud mountains, on the other the 
 blue sea, wdiich burst on the shore in foaming waves. 
 Ooleraine was reached, and to prevent the ordinary delay 
 of three-?3[uarters of an hour, an engine was attached to 
 our carriages and took us on " special " to Portrush, 
 wlierc we put up at the fine hotel, the Antrim Arms, with 
 our rooms fronting on the broad blue Atlantic. 
 
i86 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Portrusli has a charming situation. " The Skerries " 
 line of roclvs, at one time joined to tlie mainland, form a 
 breakwater to ward off the force of the Atlantic waves 
 that tumble on the shelving rock or shell-strewn strand. 
 From the green in front of the hotel the line of coast is 
 discernible as far as the Giant's Causeway', eight miles 
 off, and coasting craft and huge Transatlantic steamers 
 are ever to be seen gliding along the deep. Having 
 dispatched lunch in American double-quick time, some 
 vans and cars seated the party, and the procession was 
 formed for the Giant's Causeway. 
 
 On, then, along the winding road that takes you 
 along the coast. The " Lion's Paw " and the " Giant's 
 Head " arrest our attention, and as our driver points out 
 the rock fashioned by the water so as to resemble tlie 
 human countenance, he rerhinds us of Lot's wife. The 
 The Castle of Dunluce, grand in its silent solitariness 
 and awe-inspiring, historical memories, invites ns from 
 the highway, though a few decline to cross the narrow 
 causeway that at one time was a great defense to this 
 formidable stronghold. The date and founder are 
 nnknown, but we told of the M'Quillans who owned it 
 in 1.580, from whom it passed to the M'Donnells of the 
 the Isles — the ancestors of the Antrim family — in whose 
 possession it still continues. 
 
 We run through the village of Bushmills, arrive at 
 the Causeway Hotel, and are forthwith besieged witli 
 boatmen desirous of convejdng us by water to the Cause- 
 way ; but we defer the use of boats till our return 
 journey, and wrongly, as we subsequently ascertain. 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. 187 
 
 The guides of the Causeway connect everything 
 notable about it witli the Irish giant, Fin McCoul, and it 
 is not many years since an enterprising Yankee pretended 
 to find to find the body of the giant, and exhibited a 
 stone man tliirteen feet long to people credulous enough 
 to believe the " find " was genuine. We are pointed out 
 " The Little Causeway " and " The Middle Causeway." 
 We get to "Lord Antrim's Parlor" where names and 
 dates are inscribed, the oldest date being ITIT, and take 
 a drink out of the " Giant's Well." Then we are ushered 
 to the " Wishing Chair," and each one of the party, 
 young and old, quietly sits on the single pillar, so 
 depressed below the other as to form a comfortable scat, 
 and wish. But the injunction is given that to reveal the 
 wish is to vitiate the mystic power Avhich grants it, and 
 so we hold our peace on that subject. We linger round 
 the Honeycombs, and the Great Causewa}', at times 
 quizzing the guide about the meaning of the terrible 
 words he has used descriptive of the stones. Pentagon, 
 hexagon, octagon, flow freely from his lips, with a display 
 of learning wondrous to unlearned ears, and we ask him 
 again and again to point out those pillars which are 
 " fiveagon " and " eightagon " till he suspects our chaff 
 and becomes wary. Very few of the pillars of the 
 ' Causeway are nearly square ; one pillar is seven-sided. 
 There are several octagon, and three stones have been 
 discovered with nine sides. It is computed that there 
 are about 40,000 pillars comprising the Causeway. 
 They sink to an unknown depth, and if a pillar have a 
 split, that split runs down as far as has ever been discov- 
 
i88 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ered. The tall pillars of the " Griant's Loom" are thirt}^- 
 three feet high. The " Giant's Organ "'bears a wonder- 
 ful resemblance to that instrument. " The Chimney," as 
 some stones are so called, deceived some vessels of the 
 Spanish Armada into the belief that the}' were part of 
 Dunluce Castle, and received a cannonading in conse- 
 quence. But the guide tells you one of the vessels was 
 wrecked, which gives the name to " Port-na-Spania." 
 Boats take our party to Portcoon and Dunkerrj'- caves, 
 and we are well rewarded for our venture. 
 
 Having received a tongue thrashing from a female 
 for not emplo3dng her boats at the time she chose, and 
 because they were hers, with an injunction to the driver 
 to mark all those specially out who did not put their 
 money in her pocket, he promising faithfully to tell Mr. 
 Linden, we started in fear and dread of the consequences 
 till the "go " of the horses and bracing breezes revived 
 us. We discovered we Avere in a free country, and that 
 " women's rights " were not paramount, and that neither 
 the lady in question nor that worthy gentleman whose 
 name she took in vain had any claim on our bodies or 
 purses. We escaped being locked up for the night in a 
 police cell, and that night fervently prayed for a quieter 
 tongue and a patient husband for that woman. But let 
 us not too hastil}^ over the points we are visiting, for 
 they are well worthj^ of note. The White Rocks on the 
 way to Dunluce, are among the most interesting objects 
 on this extraordinary coast. It is said that within a 
 distance of two miles and a half there are not fewer 
 than twenty-seven caverns, all natural excavations, worn 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 by the action of the waves on the white limestone of 
 which they are composed, into tlie most fantastic shapes. 
 Dunluce Gastle, of wliich we have a moment since 
 si^oken, has a fame almost as wide as the Giant's Cause- 
 way itself. The Castle stands about one hundred feet 
 above the sea, on a perpendicular and insulated rock, the 
 entire surface of which is so completely occupied by the 
 edifice that the external walls are in continuation with 
 the perpendicular sides of the rock. The rock, though 
 insulated, is not completely water bound, being united to 
 the mainland, at the bottom of a deep chasm, by a single 
 wall not more than eighteen inches broad. Owing to the 
 perpendicular nature of the rock it must have been . 
 impossible to take the Castle, or to enter it all, except 
 by the bridge across the yawning chasm. In the 
 autumn of 1814, a visit was made to the ruins of Dun- 
 luce, by Sir Walter Scott, who observed a great resem- 
 blance in to Dunottar Castle, in Kincardineshire, a 
 detailed description of which is given in the great poet 
 and author's diary. 
 
 The Griant's Causeway was first called to public 
 attention about 1693, since which time it has been 
 visited by thousands upon thousands of tourists, and 
 many scientific men. It is a wonderful formation of 
 perpendicular stones, fitting so close together as to 
 exclude, in some places, even a sheet of paper. Nor 
 are the pillars continuous, but composed of several 
 pieces fitted together by convex and concave surfaces. 
 It is said there is but one triangular pillar throughout 
 the whole extent of the three Causeways. These col- 
 
igo Crusade to Europe 
 
 umns are composed chemically of about one-half flinty 
 earth, one-quarter iron, and one-quarter clay and lime. 
 Kohl's remarks on the Causeway ai'e worthy of being 
 given. He sa3^s : "With all the explanations that can 
 be oflered, however, so much is left unexplained that 
 they answer very little purpose. On a close investiga- 
 tion of these wonderful formations, so many questions 
 arise, that one scarcely ventures to utter them. With 
 inquiries of this nature, perhaps not the least gain is 
 the knowledge of liow much lies beyond the limits of 
 our inquiries, and how many things that lie so plainly 
 before our eyes which we can see and handle, may yet 
 be wrapped in unfathomable mystery. We see in the 
 Giant's Causeway the most certain and obvious effects 
 produced by the operation of active and powerful 
 forces which entirely escape our scrutiny. We walk 
 over the heads of some forty thousand columns, (for 
 this number has been counted by some curious and 
 leisurely persons,) all beautifully cut and polished, 
 formed of such neat pieces, so exactly fitted to each 
 oilier, and so cleverly supported, that we might fanc}^ 
 we had before us the work of ingenious human artifi- 
 cials ; and j^et what we behold is the result of the 
 immutable laws of nature, acting without any apparent 
 object, and by a process which must remain a myster}'^ 
 forever to our understanding. Even the simplest in- 
 quiries, it is often impossible to answer ; such, for 
 instance, as how far these colonnades run out beneath 
 the sea, and how far into the land, which throws over 
 them a veil as impenetrable as that of ocean." 
 
OF Allegheny Commanueky. ,191 
 
 Of course there are all kinds of traditions in con- 
 nection with the Causeways, one being that " the giant, 
 Fin McCoul, was the Champion of Ireland, and felt 
 verj^ much aggrieved at the insolent boasting of a cer- 
 tain Caledonian giant, who offered to whip every one 
 who came before him, and even dared to tell Fin that 
 if it were not for tlie wetting of himself, he would 
 swim over and give him a good drubbing. Fin at 
 last applied to the King, who, perhaps not daring to 
 question the doings of such a weighty man, gave him 
 leave to construct a causeway right to Scotland, on 
 which the Scot walked over and fought the Irishman. 
 Fin turned out victor, and with an amount of gen- 
 erosit}^ becoming his Hibernian descent, kindly allowed 
 his rival to marry and settle in Ireland, which the 
 Scot was not loath to do, seeing at that time 'living 
 in Scotland at that time was not the best, ;ind every 
 body knows that Ireland was always the richest country 
 in the world. Since the death of the giants, the Cause- 
 ways, being no longer wanted, has sank under tlie sea, 
 onl3- leaving a portion of itself visible here, a little at 
 the island of RathUn, and the portals at the grand 
 gate on Staffa. 
 
 The Pleaskin is the finest of all the Causeway, and of 
 this Kohl writes thus : " The natural basaltic rock here 
 ies immediately under the surface. About twelve feet 
 from the summit the rock begins to assume a collumnar 
 tendency, and is formed into ranges of rudely collumnar 
 basalt, in a vertical position, exhibiting the appearance 
 of a grand galler^^ whose columns measure sixty feet in 
 
192 Crusade to Europe 
 
 height. This basaltic colonnade rests upon a bed of 
 coarse, black, irregular rock, sixty feet thick, abounding 
 in air holes. Below this stratum is a second range of 
 pillars forty -five feet high, more accurately columnar and 
 nearly as accurately formed as the Causeway itself. 
 The cliff appears as though it had been painted for effect 
 in various shades of green, vermilion rock, red ochre, 
 grey lichens, &c., its general form so beautiful, its 
 storeyed pillars, tier after tier, so architecturally grace- 
 ful, its curious and varied stratifications supporting the 
 columnar ranges ; here the dark brown amorphous basalt, 
 there the red ochre — and below that again the slender 
 but distinct lines of wood coal — all the edges of its diff- 
 erent stratifications tastefully varied, by the hand ot 
 vegetable nature, with grasses, ferns and rock plants. 
 In the various strata of which it is composed, sub- 
 limity and beauty have been blended together in the 
 most extraordinary manner." 
 
 A few of the names given to some of the rocks, which 
 resemble those after which they are called, may serve as 
 a means to give the reader an idea of the curious and 
 wonderful geological formations abounding in the Cause- 
 ways, viz : The Horse Shoe Harbor, the Lion's Head, 
 The Tunis, the Giant's Pulpit, the Giant's Granny, the 
 Priest, the Stack, the Giant's Chimney, the Giant's Or- 
 gan, the Hen and Cliickens, the Nursing Cliild, the King 
 and his Nobles, the Highlandman's Bonnet, &c., &c. 
 
 As we stood in the Causeway we saw the magnificent 
 Anchor Line Steamer, " Circassia" pass by so gracefully 
 and beautifully on her voyage to New York. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. - 193 
 
 A GOOD IDEA. 
 
 As we wandered over the rocks in the Causeway, we 
 heard a very good suggestion made by a member of our 
 party wlio supplies the first families of Allegheny and 
 Pittsburgh with juicy tenderloins, and is thoroughly 
 posted on "fine cuts," &c., none other than our jolly 
 good friend, Fred Beilstein. 
 
 We noticed Fred gazing abstractedly at the wonder- 
 fully formed rocks, saying nothing, but evidently turning 
 some mighty question over in his mind. He had not 
 made a remark for quite a while, when suddenly turning 
 to some of us, he remarked : " Do you know boys, I 
 have a mighty good notion to take-over two or three of 
 these pillars and have them cut down to proper lengths, 
 to place in front of my meat stand, for the accommoda- 
 tion of my customers, and would nH that draw ? 
 
 This put us in mind of one on the same gentleman, 
 which it may not be out of place to relate here. 
 
 When the party was in the King's Palace, in Amster- 
 dam, in which is a magnificent and very large carved 
 marble vase, which, perhaps, no money could buy, and 
 around this the pilgrims were gathered, and exclama- 
 tions of delight and admiration were being poured 
 forth most extravagantly, and none were louder in their 
 praise of this beautiful piece of art than our good friend 
 Fred. Stepping up to Prof. Slack, who was standing- 
 near by, he quietly tapped him on the shoulder and said, 
 " Is n't that an elegant piece of work, Mr. Slack ?"■ 
 
 M 
 
194 Crusade to Europe 
 
 " Oh ! my, is n't it grand ?" " Do you know what I was 
 thinking, Mr. Slack?" "No, Fred, I do not, what was 
 it?" "Well," says Fred, "I was just thinking if I 
 only had that vase at mj stall to keep corned beef in, 
 would n't it make the other butchers sick ? 
 
 Next morning our saloon-carriage was again in wait- 
 ing, and we started for Belfast. The swelling hills and 
 fertile valle3-s of Antrim — green with unripe corn and 
 rye and barle}^, and yellow with newly-cut hay. — could 
 not escape the e^'e of the. traveler, nor the white cottages 
 embosomed amid flowers, nor the dark green hedge 
 rows, nor the neatly kept railway stations through which 
 we passed. 
 
 From Carrickfergus Junction we looked on the blue 
 waters of Belfast Lough, dotted with man}'- a sail, 
 and the capital of Ulster at the extremit^^ where the 
 Lagan joins the salt sea. The terminus is reached, and 
 and carriages and cars convey us to the Queen's Hotel. 
 
 Arriving in Belfast we took a Turkish bath-house by 
 storm, and, enjojdng the luxurj^ of a bath therein, we 
 returned to our hotel for dinner, and at 6:30 we went 
 down to the wharf and saw our fraters of Marj^ Com- 
 mander}", No. 36, of Philadelphia, who were making 
 their ^^ First European Pilgrimage^''^ and were to leave 
 at 8 P. M. for Glasgow. We spent an hour pleasantl}' 
 with them, and, bidding them good-bj^, we took a stroll 
 through the principal streets, and must confess that Bel- 
 fast was the first city in Ireland we had visited giving 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. 195 
 
 aii}^ appeavance of enterprise, business activit}' and life. 
 Tlie shops, as the}^ are pleased to call their stores thei"e, 
 had an inviting, business-like appearance, people moving 
 more rapidly and actively as though they were doing- 
 something to give them the wherewithal that they might 
 live, move and haA^e their being. 
 
 As the " Quartette" were moving along the street, 
 the noble heart of the Doctor was suddenly enlarged, for 
 to our amazement he invited us into a " green-grocer's" 
 to " take something" with him, so he invested half a 
 crown (Q2^ cents) in five peaches, eating three himself, 
 dividing the remaining two among the Colonel, Major 
 and '• Carlisle," and those two were bad, of course, for 
 they were bought with the money alluded to in our 
 letter from Killarney to Dublin, and no good ever came 
 from those who do not do right. Moral — " never buy 
 peaches in a foreign country with money bagged as that 
 was ? " 
 
 As it was Saturdajr evening, and nothing much could 
 be done on that evening, the committee appointed on 
 Lough Erne, to draft resolutions expressive of the 
 appreciation of the kindness of our Enniskillen friends 
 and Brother R. W. Armstrong, met and prepared the 
 following, which were unanimously^ adopted by the Com- 
 mander}^, and handsomely engrossed and forwarded 
 respectively to those for whom they were intended : 
 
 ^^Whereas, On our pilgrimage to Europe it was our 
 extreme good fortune to travel by the way of Enniskillen, 
 where we were met and most elegantly and courteously 
 
196 Crusade to Europe 
 
 received and entertained by the Masons of Bnniskillen 
 and the surrounding country. And whereas, this courtesy 
 was as spontaneous and magnificent as it was unex- 
 pected, and came to us in such a manner as to arouse 
 our warmest feelings of gratitude to the brethren who 
 originated it and executed it, and is an incident in our 
 trip as fragrant and beautiful as the bouquets with which 
 they decked us, and will be as lasting in our memory as 
 recollection and gratitude exist, and will be treasured as 
 an offering to that noble fraternity of which they and we 
 form a part, and whose ' universal chain ' binds together 
 men of all climes, nation and professions, and as an 
 humble recognition of the kindness and hospitality 
 thus shown to us, it is resolved — 
 
 " 1st. That we hereby tender to Bro. 0. Ternan and 
 the brethren of Bnniskillen our thanks for the marked 
 kindness shown by them to us in the royal reception 
 extended, and in the most courteous and hospitable 
 entertainment provided." 
 
 " 2d. That in the action of our Enniskillen breth- 
 ren we recognize that the stranger sinks into the brother, 
 that distance strengthens rather than weakens the ' mys- 
 tic tie,' that nationalities become a brotherhood, and that 
 in the mellowing influence of our order men of all 
 sections and places ' meet upon the level,' and become 
 one in feeling and sentiment, as they are one in a com- 
 mon purpose, understanding, and duty." 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ' 197 
 
 " 3cl. That the bright jewels accompanying the 
 brethren, and forming a conspicuous part in the enter- 
 tainment, have our warmest thanks for their presence 
 and aid ; and that to these ladies we are deeply indebted 
 for much of the pleasure and profit derived by us. May 
 they ever be recognized and honored by our fraternity, 
 as forming the chief corner stone upon which must rest 
 all that is noble, pure, and good. May they ever be 
 made welcome in our journeys, and honored in all our 
 councils. To fchem we extend the right hand of fellow- 
 ship, and invoke the benediction of Almighty God upon 
 them and theirs." 
 
 " 4tli. That we assure any and all our friends a 
 warm and hearty welcome to our homes and hearts, and 
 cordially invite them to come with us that we may show 
 them how deeply we feel indebted, and with what willing 
 hands we will seek to pay this debt. ' The Emerald 
 Isle and the gem of the ocean ' will mingle and har- 
 monize, and the brethren shall know that the west has 
 room for them, and to which they shall be made ' as 
 welcome as the flowers of May.' " 
 
 And to Brother R. W. Armstrong the following was 
 prepared, engrossed and forwarded : 
 
 "Among the many pleasant incidents occurring to us 
 on our pilgrimage none is brighter than the unexpected 
 and unselfish action of our friend and brother, Robert 
 W. Armstrong, of Belleek, in the County Fermanagh. 
 
igJi Crusade to Europe 
 
 Visiting bis neigliborhood as strangers, and having no 
 claims upon liis time or kindness, we were, nevertheless 
 made his debtor to such a degree that we feel that we 
 can never fully repay the debt. His finished and exqui- 
 site memento, wrought out through patient toil, and 
 with marked originality and skill, will be kept and 
 treasured by us so long as we keep life, and whenever 
 seen and whithersoever we go, it shall remind us that a 
 brother's hand made it, and a brother's heart suggested 
 it. All that can be said by us is, that he lives in his act 
 and has sent his name and fraternal feeling into homes 
 and families which, though divided from him by an ocean 
 are linked to him by an indissoluble tie, and will receive 
 him at their fireside with all the warmth which gratitude 
 and love can prompt. And as he travels on through 
 life, cheering the hearts of others by his benefactions, 
 and lightening the labor and struggle of life by his 
 kindness, may his pathway grow brighter and brighter 
 until it shall melt away into that supreme light and 
 life which is the reward, as it is the home, of the just 
 and the good. And may he and his be blessed even 
 with the blessing of the promises. May this simple 
 tribute of thanks, given from Allegheny Commandery, 
 No. 35, of Allegheny City, Pennsjdvania, be accepted 
 by him in that spirit which prompts its offering, and 
 be one flower in that chaplet which nothing but love 
 can weave." 
 
 Retiring early to catch up our lost sleep, the fol- 
 lowing day (Sunday) found the " Quartette " all in their 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ' 199 
 
 own room, hard at work writing, for here we had the 
 pleasure of receiving our first letters from home, and 
 we never saw a man work harder in our lives than the 
 Colonel. He first sorted out all our " soiled linen," 
 and piled it up in the centre of the room, taking an 
 inventory of the same ; then into his trunk he went, 
 bringing out a box of elegant note paper — various 
 flowers beautifully painted by hand on each sheet — with 
 envelopes to match, and seating himself at the table, 
 he spent the day with " pen in hand," and as the Col- 
 onel hailed -from Salt Lake City, he had quite a novel 
 way of doiug his letter writing. He would compose a 
 beautifully worded letter addressed to " My Dear Wi- 
 nona." When finished, all he had to do was to copy 
 the same a, dozen times or so, merely changing the 
 address as many times to " My Dear Lurline," " My 
 Dearest Adele," " My Sweet Evelina," " My Loving 
 Amanda," " My Tender Susan," "My Own Margaret," 
 etc. I know at any rate that " Carlisle," as banker, 
 had a bill against tlie Colonel, for postage in Belfast, 
 about two shillings and sixpence. 
 
 While engaged in writing thusly, rather an amusing- 
 thing occurred. We would hear a bell down stairs 
 in the office ring, and the attendant call up to the 
 servant, "No. 19!" and "One bottle of beer to N'o. 
 19 ! " It went on thusly for a couple of hours, about 
 every fifteen minutes, " One beer to No. 19 ! " being 
 called. At first no attention was paid to the matter, 
 but finding it so interrupted the Colonel that he was 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 addressing one of liis telling epistles as " My Dear 
 Number Nineteen," we could n't stand having the Col- 
 onel interrupted in this manner, and going down to the 
 office, we found it was none of our party were in No. 
 19, so we begged that the hotel proprietor remove the 
 bar up to 19, or have 19 removed down to the bung-hole. 
 Now, it appears there was a social party of four on tlie 
 floor above room 19, and they had ordered up "four 
 beers," and the girl carrjdng it up had occasion to set the 
 " four beers " down opposite No. I9's door while she went 
 into an adjoining room to attend to some duty there. The 
 occupant of 19 evidently scented beer in the air, and 
 slipping out gobbled the social party's "four beers." It 
 was truly a funny sight to see the girl looking round for 
 the four bottles labeled " Bass' Pale Ale," and stepping 
 into 19 and looking out into the yard see the four inno- 
 cent bottles standing upright on the ground beneath the 
 window! In the evening we took a jaunting car for a 
 drive, to air the fevered brow of the Colonel, after his 
 arduous labors of the day. 
 
 Belfast is a progressive citj', and the onlj' progressive 
 city in fact in Ireland, while she is the linen market of 
 the world. In the course of fifty years the population 
 has increased fivefold. In 1821, the inhabitants numbered 
 only 31,000, in 1851 they increased to 100,301, and in 
 ISn to 1U,394. . 
 
 The cit}' stands upon the propert}^ of the Marquis of 
 Donegal, and it is said that but for long leases granted 
 b}^ the former proprietor, the income of that nobleman 
 
OF ALLEGHENY COMMANDERY. 
 
 from the town alone would amount to £300,000. The 
 cit}^ is situated on the river Lagan and on Belfast Lough 
 and is distant from Glasgow only one hundred and 
 thirty miles, and from Liverpool, one hundred and fifty- 
 six. It has one of the best harbors in the United 
 Kingdom, though the river Lagan was formerly but a 
 creek. It was here the far-famed White Star Steam- 
 ships, the largest that cross the Atlantic, were built and 
 launched. The estimated shipping tonnage is 1,500,000 
 tons, the recent improvements costing £250,000, or a 
 million and a quarter in American money. 
 
 The buildings in Belfast are good, and the town in a 
 a business manner has the appearance of Manchester or 
 Glasgow, and many of the streets are regular and wide, 
 particularly around the exterior of the town. It cannot, 
 however, claim the same age and antiquity of Dublin, 
 being unknown prior to the twelfth century. Edward 
 Bruce on his way south on his raid of robbery and 
 plunder, completely sacked the city ; and very shortl3^ 
 after the death of Bruce, the Earl of Ulster was mui'dered 
 by some of his own family, and the Irish once more 
 held out against the English aggression, rebuilt the 
 Castle of Belfast, and held it for two centuries. 
 
 In 1612, Belfast was presented to Sir A. Chichester, 
 the ancestor of the present Marquis of Donegal. 
 
 Perhaps the most remarkable fact in the industrial 
 liistor}^ of Belfast, is, that no printing press was ever 
 brought into the city before the year 1696, yet Belfast 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 was the town where the first Bible ever printed in Ire- 
 land was pnblished in the year 1794, and where the 
 oldest Irish periodical, the " Weekly' Magazine," was 
 originally published. They now have some eight daily 
 and weekly papers. 
 
 The most important features of interest in this 
 enterprising city are the Commercial Buildings, built in 
 1820, and cost £20,000. The Presbyterian Church in 
 Rosemary street, the handsomest structure of that 
 denomination in Belfast, and cost £10,000. This leads us 
 to the division of religious sects here ; there are twenty- 
 eight congregations of Presbyterians, eighteen of Episco- 
 palians, five of Catholics, and three of Unitarians. In 
 18tl, the Protestant population was 118,868, while the 
 Catholics numbered only 55,052, and of the former 60,811 
 were Presbyterians. 
 
 Then there is the Provincial Bank, built of white 
 Cookstown stone and cost £18,000. The Ulster Bank is 
 one of the finest and handsomest buildings in the city ; 
 built of polished red sandstone, and which has a capital 
 of £1,000,000. 
 
 The new Custom House is the largest building in 
 Belfast, constructed of the finest Grlasgow stone and 
 aff"ording ample room for the custom house, post office, 
 inland revenue office, stamp office, and an office for the 
 Board of Local Marine. Then there are the xVorthern 
 Bank, the Artillery and Infantry Barracks, Trinity 
 Church, Court House, Royal Academical Institution, 
 and Government School of Art, St. Malaehy's Roman 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ' 203 
 
 Catholic Chapel, the Music Hall, the Queen's College, 
 Presbyterian College, Methodist College, the Hospital 
 for the Deaf, Dumb and Blind, and the Museum, all 
 buildings and places handsome in their architectural 
 design, and worthy of a visit by the tourist. Then we 
 come to the life and support of the city of Belfast, 
 namely, her linen manufactures. We visited the York 
 Street Spinning Company, and that some idea may be 
 had as to the enormity of this trade, we will give a fact 
 or two in connection with figures, which may appear 
 astonishing to purchasers of table linen, towels, napkins, 
 etc. For instance, the York Street Spinning Company, 
 formerly the firm of Mulhollands, employs nearly three 
 thousand hands, and has generally £100,000, or $500,000 
 worth of flax in course of manipulation. 
 
 In Ireland we find the first spinning factory was 
 established in 1806, and consisted of two hundred and 
 twelve spindles, adapted for canvas yarns. The linen 
 board, by a bounty of thirty shillings per spindle, 
 succeeded in causing the establishment of others, which 
 in 1809 contained 6,369 spindles. In 1815 there were in 
 Ulster five mills, the largest having 1204, and the 
 smallest 300 spindles ; in Leinster two mills, and in 
 Munster, seven, only one of which was in operation 
 owing to the depression of trade at that period. In 1811 
 there were forty-one mills, containing 280,000 spindles, 
 and in 1852 the number had increased to seventy-three 
 mills, and 389,000 spindles, and two years later there 
 were eighty-one mills, and 500,000 spindles in operation. 
 
204 Crusade to Europe 
 
 representing a capital of some three to four million 
 pounds sterling, or fifteen to twenty million dollars ; the 
 number of factories now being about one hundred and 
 sixty, and giving employment to upwards of sixty thou- 
 sand persons. 
 
 The quantity of flax grown in Ireland has been 
 generally on the increase. In 1847 there were 58,132 
 acres sown, each acre 3delding about five hundred weight 
 of scutched fibre, altogether worth about £656,100, while 
 in 1870, the estimated value of the crop was nearly two 
 million pounds sterling. The product of one acre of 
 ground under fiax, requires a day's labor of sixty-four 
 females, and fifty-three males, or one hundred seventeen 
 persons in all, from the. time it is pulled to the time that 
 it goes to the mill. 
 
 The Linen Hall was erected in 1715, at a cost of 
 £10,000. The linen trade being almost exclusively con- 
 fined to Ulster, it was found inconvenient to have the 
 business conducted by agents in Dublin, in consequence 
 of which was instituted the Linen Hall. In MacCul- 
 lough's Dictionary of Commerce, we find that "in 1698, 
 both houses of English Parliament addressed His 
 Majesty William III., representing that the progress of 
 the woolen manufacture of Ireland was such as to prej- 
 udice the trade of this country (England,) and that it 
 would be for the public advantage were the former 
 discouraged, and the linen manufacture established 
 instead ; " and King William adopted one of the most 
 illiberal pieces of policy ever practiced b}^ England to 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. • 205 
 
 Ireland, when he said, " I shall do all that in me lies to 
 discourage the "woolen manufacture in Ireland, and to 
 encourage the linen manufacture, and to promote the 
 trade of England," and strange to say that was what 
 gave the first decided impulse to the linen trade. , 
 
 We also visited the Greenmount Spinning Company, 
 but our friend, Mr. Houston, being absent in Paris, we 
 were most agreeably entertained by Mr. Montg-omery of 
 that company, with whom we dined, and a good prepara- 
 tion made for the custom house officers of New York by 
 the manner in which the trio of the " Quartette " dived 
 into table cloths, napkins, handkerchiefs, etc. 
 
 We were also shown thx'ough Marcus Ward & Go's 
 famous printing and lithographing establishment, the 
 largest of the kind in the world. 
 
 Returning to hotel after our day's work, we had a 
 good dinner, which they know how to set up at the 
 " Queen's," and that being finished, the ladies of our 
 party presented to Mr and Mrs. Cooper a handsome pair 
 of silver napkin rings, and the Commandery passed a 
 resolution to Mr. Cooper for his every attention, polite- 
 ness and kindness. His prompt attention to all our 
 comforts, the care taken for us all, his own genial 
 manners and exertions, gave Mr. Cooper a warm place 
 in our affections, and to him we owe very much for oiir 
 agreeable recollections of Ireland. Not an accident 
 occurred under his care, not a piece of baggage went 
 missing, not a train was lost, but everything under his 
 direction and pleasant way of going about it, moved so 
 
2o5 Crusade to Europe 
 
 harmoniously and smootlil}^ that everything added to our 
 enjoyment, having nothing that couki in any way 
 detract or mar our pleasure. In whatever station Mr. 
 Cooper may be placed, we wish him unbounded success, 
 and we trust to see hira in our country and cit}^, when 
 we will endeavor " to do unto him as he did unto us." 
 
 Bidding them " Good bye " at 9 P. M. that Monday 
 evening, we stepped aboard the boat and were soon put- 
 ting down the Lagan into Belfast Lough on our way to 
 Glasgow. 
 
OF Allegheny Commanderv. 
 
 207 
 
 6ie'ite'i^ Mo. 6. 
 
 Up the River Clyde — In and Around Glasgow. — The 
 Grand Reception by St. Mungo Encampment and 
 others. — Purchase of a Clothing House. — Trouble 
 with Gents' Furnishing Goods. — A day Spent with 
 Friends. — Separation of "Carlisle" from the Re- 
 mainder of the "Quartette." — Arrival in Edin- 
 burgh. — Incidents by the Way. 
 
 ^JS" the following morning might have been seen on 
 the deck of the " Petrel," the noble and ever faith- 
 ful little band, the " Quartette," up and with eager 
 eyes, taking in the far famed scenery, of what we are 
 pleased to call our old home river — the beautiful Clj^de — 
 and singular as it may seem, and perhaps hardl}^ credita- 
 ble, it was actually raining — well, not exactly raining, 
 but just a good healthy Scotch mist, as manj^ are well 
 aware, it seldom rains in Scotland, which recalls to our 
 mind a little incident in the Rev. Dr. Plumer's tour in 
 Europe a year or so ago. 
 
 He had just landed from the steamer at Greenock, 
 and was seated in the railway carriage, and though a day 
 in Majr, he with his fi'iends Avere clad in their heav3^ win- 
 ter under clothing, heavy sviits, overcoats, and the Doctor 
 had even a shawl about him in addition to all these, 
 when along came a Scotchman employed about the 
 
2o8 Crusade to Europe 
 
 depot, in his shirt sleeves, and stopped in front of the 
 Doctor's compartment. Presently another canny, warm 
 blooded Scot approached and greeting his friend with, 
 " Griiid morning, Geordie, hoo' are ye the day, man?" 
 to whicli he received the reply, " oh ! I'm fine, Jock, 
 thank ye for speirin', but its nnco warm the day, man !" 
 It is scarcely necessary to say that this made the Doctor 
 shiver harder than ever, and express the wonder what a 
 real cold day was like in Scotland. 
 
 We were just approaching " Ailsa Craig," a huge 
 rocky island, which rises abruptly from the sea, is 1,103 
 feet in height, about two miles in circumference at its 
 base, and its nearest distance to land about ten miles. 
 There is an old ruin of a tower on its summit, and this 
 queer rock is inhabited by millions and millions of birds, 
 and is utterly devoid of life of any other kind. 
 
 Passing Rothesay, a beautiful little town in the 
 county of Bute, a great resort for invalids and pleasure 
 seekers, owing to its mild and genial climate, we enter 
 the Clyde — and this is certainly an incomparable sail — 
 with features clear and distinct from the beauties of our 
 great American river, the Hudson, or the beautiful 
 Rhine of Germany. 
 
 Away on our right are the hills of Ayrshire, while on 
 our left are the pretty little towns dotting the banks at 
 frequent intervals, while Scotland's noble mountains 
 form a grand baekgroond to the pretty picture in the 
 fore. We pass the delightful villas of Dunoon and 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ■ . 209 
 
 Inellan, and a little further on the river expands at 
 Helensburg, making an admirable anchorage for sea ves- 
 sels, and here at what is called the " tail of the Bank," are 
 loaded all the sea-going vessels, as above this point, 
 owing to the most unfortunate narrowing of the river, 
 it is impossible to bring down from Glasgow a heavily 
 laden sailing or steamship. 
 
 On our right is Gonrock, which is three miles distant 
 from Greenock, but may be considered simply a contin- 
 uation of the latter place, and presents a splendid ap- 
 pearance from the passing steamer, the town being made 
 up of fine stone residences and handsome mansions. 
 Between Gonrock and Greenock stands Fort Matilda Bat- 
 tery. 
 
 Shortly we call at Greenock, at which point we enter 
 the narrow stream, which water-course, troublesome as it 
 is, prevents Glasgow from being the greatest city in the 
 world, had it the harbor and access to a harbor as have 
 Liverpool and New York. 
 
 The situation of Greenock is a beautiful one, and 
 most convenient for commercial interests, the principal 
 trade being sugar refining and ship building. Close 
 upon the fine quay stands the custom house, a very com- 
 modious building. In the burying ground of the old 
 West Kirk of Greenock, Burns' Highland Mary is in- 
 terred. Steaming away from this busy town we pass 
 Port Glasgow and the ship building yards, but we were 
 disappointed at not seeing all the stocks full of the 
 newly laid keels and skeletons of vessels, and at not 
 
 N 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 hearing the same pounding noises and clitter-clattering 
 of hammers as they rounded the heads of rivets and 
 bolts which were being driven tlirough the plates and 
 stancheons of iron, as we saw and heard but a few summers 
 before. Here we met the good old steamship " Cali- 
 fornia" coming down in charge of two tugs on her way 
 out to sea, and we sighed a deep long sigh for the days 
 gone by as we looked on the noble boat gracefully turn- 
 ing the windings of the stream, for man}^ a good day 
 and hour we had spent in her commodious rooms and on 
 her spacious decks. 
 
 We soon come to Dumbarton rock on which stands 
 Dumbarton Castle, two objects as inseparable with 
 Scottish history as would be Scotland itself. This 
 curious rock, or rather high bluff, rising precipitouslj^ 
 from level ground as does " Ailsa Craig" from the sea, 
 is a mile in circumference, and rises to a height of two 
 hundred and forty feet terminating in two peaks, the 
 highest of wliich is called " Wallace's seat," and one 
 part of the Castle bears the name of '' Wallace's tower," 
 for it was here the Scottish hero was once confined. 
 The ascent to the Castle is by a narrow steep stair, built 
 in a natural fissure of the rock. In the Castle is the 
 armory, in which are exhibited a poor collection of 
 weapons, said to have been found on the battle field of 
 Bannockburn, but tlie Secretary of War of the King- 
 dom has ordered that the two-handed sword shown 
 here as " Wallace's Sword," shall be no longer exhibited 
 as such, as it has been ascertained that it is of the period 
 of Edward lY., and consequently could never have be- 
 longed to Wallace. 
 
OF Allegheny Commanuery. 
 
 In the time of the wars, which abounded in Scotland 
 plentifully in Queen Mary's time, this Castle was taken 
 by an ingenious strategem by Captain Crawford of 
 Jordan hill, as is given in the history of Scotland by 
 George Buchanan. "Taking advantage of a misty and 
 moonless night to bring to the foot of the Castle rock 
 the scaling ladders which he had provided, he chose 
 for his terrible experiment the place where the rock was 
 highest, and where, of course, less pains were taken to 
 a regular guard. This choice was fortunate, for the first 
 ladder broke with the weight of the men who mounted 
 it, and the noise of the fall must have betrayed them had 
 there been any sentinel around or within hearing. 
 Crawford, assisted by a soldier who had deserted from 
 the Castle, and was acting as his guide, renewed the 
 attempt in persoj], and having scrambled up to a project- 
 ing ledge of rock, where there was some footing, con- 
 tinued to make fast the ladder by tying it to the roots 
 of a tree which grew about midwa}^ up the rock. Here 
 they found a small flat surface, sufficient, however, to 
 afford footing for the whole party, which was, of course, 
 very few in number. In scaling the second precipice, 
 another accident took place ; one of the party subject 
 to epileptic fits, was seized with one of these attacks, 
 brought on perhaps by terror. * * * His illness 
 made it impossible for him either to ascend or descend. 
 To have slain the man would have been a cruel expedi- 
 ent, besides that the fall of his body from the ladder 
 might have alarmed the garrison. Crawford caused him, 
 therefore, to be tied to the ladder, and thus mounted 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 with ease over the body of the epileptic person. When 
 the party gained tlie summit they slew the sentinel ere 
 he had time to give the alarm, and easily surprised the 
 slumbering garrison who had trusted too much to the 
 vigilance of the sentinel to keep good watch/' There is 
 still in the archives of the Duke of Montrose, a juvenile 
 letter of James VI. written in his ninth year, addressed 
 to Captain Crawford, who performed this service. 
 
 The town of Dumbarton lies directly at the base of 
 Dumbarton Rock, and is now a very important seat of 
 industry, containing some 11,500 inhabitants, has large 
 shipbuilding works and employing thousands of men in 
 this enterprise of fitting-up and building sea craft, in 
 which the Clyde is celebrated, as in every water on earth 
 almost floats the handiwork of ship-builders of the 
 Clyde. A little further on we come to Dungias Point, 
 and here has been erected an appropriate monument to 
 Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation on 
 the Clyde. We are now in the midst of busy shipping 
 interests, huge sailing vessels, immense steamers are 
 loading and unloading valuable cargoes consigned to and 
 from all quarters of the globe ; the river has nai-rowed 
 down almost to a good sized American creek, until the 
 numerous water craft, we would almost think, would be 
 entangled in an inextricable confusion. We meet the fine 
 river steamers loaded down with passengers on their 
 way to the coast, to spend tlie day, the week or the 
 summer; all around are signs of life and prosperity, 
 while the noise of the hammers of hundreds of men beat 
 
OF Allegheny Commandeky. 
 
 and pound the driving rivet ; and liere we sight the bus}^ 
 city of Glasgow, her tall stacks pouring forth their black 
 smoke, making us feel we were rather approaching home 
 than otherwise, so far as soot, dirt and smoke are con- 
 cerned at least. 
 
 We arrive at the pier about 7 A. M. in Glasgow, 
 where we are met by our new conductor, and driven at 
 once to the new and elegant Cockburn Hotel, feeling 
 quite ready so far as appetites wei'e concerned to most 
 effectually " clean out the hotel " in less time than it 
 would take to say it, and as we passed through "Argyll," 
 " Buchanan," " Queen," " Sanchiehall street," etc., those 
 names appeared to us as familiar as the chimneys of our 
 mills, or our Fifth avenue, or Federal street were in 
 good old grimy, smoky Pittsburgh, and more inviting- 
 Allegheny. Here, too, we are made more at home, for 
 we meet dear, good friends, some from across the 
 Atlantic, also strangers in a foreign land, and some in 
 their own homes. And here also the " Quartette " are 
 made acquainted with their first " grief'' ; the mournful, 
 sorrowful parting of the " Quartette," for here the 
 " Quartette " were to be separated for a little time, and 
 we can never extinguish from memory — though we crj^ 
 with Lady Ifacbeth, " Out dark, blank spot ! " — the 
 swollen, grief-lit eyes of the Doctor, the " Majah " and 
 the Colonel as they shook hands with poor lonely " Car- 
 lisle,'' when they parted from him and left him weeping 
 over their sad departure ; and to settle a little bill from 
 a proprietress of a laundr}^ which the trio had forgotten 
 (intentionalh^) to liquidate. 
 
214 Crusade to Europe 
 
 At the Cockbiirn, was a committee from St. Miingo 
 Encampment of Knights Templar, of Glasgow, in wait- 
 ing to receive us, and informed us they would at 8 P. M. 
 escort the Commandery to attend the banquet to be 
 tendered by St. Mungo Encampment, and the other 
 Masonic bodies of Glasgow, in the Queen's Rooms on 
 that evening. 
 
 And here upon the door step of the hotel we were 
 greeted by the cheerful smile of our very handsome, 
 jovial and genial friend, W. Stilwell, Esq., of Philadel- 
 phia, Pa., who had been making a four months' tour of 
 Continental countries and the British Kingdom, thereby 
 adding vastly to his already large and accumulated stock 
 of knowledge, who said "Hello! there, what are you 
 doing here ?" We immediately gave him the oath of 
 allegiance, made him a Knight of Submission by borrow- 
 ing a five dollar bill — or, rather, a pound note each from 
 him — and giving hira our individual checks on the 
 Allegheny Trust Company; the Major's, however, being, 
 1 believe, a lien on some property in the East End, 
 which he wanted to donate to the city of Pittsburgh if 
 that corporation would relieve him from street improve- 
 ment assessments. 
 
 After a good heart}^ breakfast, consisting of " pur- 
 ritch '' followed by other good substantials, we repaired 
 to our rooms, and, being refreshed by a good " wash up," 
 we were prepared to " do " Glasgow. 
 
 From the date of our sailing from New York we had 
 heard continually what a stock of clothing was to be laid 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. ■ 215 
 
 in on our arrival in Glasgow, so the " Quartette '' then 
 started on their day's sight-seeing, first striking a 
 merchant tailoring establishment where " Carlisle " was 
 well acquainted, and he impressed upon the remaining 
 trio of the " Quartette " the cheapness of wearing apparel 
 in the British domain. The consequence was, they 
 rushed down to the City of Griasgow Bank, and while 
 speaking of this unfortunate bank, it might not be 
 improper to state here an incident that goes far towards 
 accounting for the sudden going down of this famous 
 banking institution, which had always been considered 
 as solid as the British throne itself, and we state it rriore 
 for the benefit of the unfortunate shareholders of that 
 bank, many of whom are now ruined, widows and 
 orphans supposing themselves sufficiently well oflT to 
 carry them nicelj^ through this world, and who are now 
 in a condition of penury and poverty, that while the 
 Major was in the Bank of the City of Glasgow he me- 
 andered into a little room off" to one side and had little 
 " confab " with the general cashier, and on coming out 
 his person seemed much stouter than usual. Of course 
 we do not, under any circumstances, mean to insinuate 
 that, for the financial crash that was soon after to fall 
 upon that institution a little " Yankee " advice and 
 counsel from an attorney to that general cashier had 
 anything whatever to do witli the Major's sudden devel- 
 opment ; we simply state the case, and would add that, at 
 any rate, it is a very reckless way to carry money so 
 that corners of five-pound notes may be seen sticking 
 out of pants' pockets and peeping out from coat tails, 
 
2i6 Crusade to Europe 
 
 etc. They then rushed back to the tailoring establish- 
 ment and the result was : the Major, four suits and two 
 •overcoats ; the Doctor, three suits and one overcoat — he 
 ^Iso left his linen duster to be padded for fall wear ; the 
 ■Colonel, ^ue suits and as many overcoats. A wink to 
 proprietors from " Carlisle," and net results to that 
 personage in that transaction was " two pound ten ; '' and 
 they — the Major, Doctor and Colonel — don't know it 3'et. 
 
 Here also we met our kind friends, John B. Main and 
 Alexander Main, of Glasgow, to whom also we are 
 deeply indebted for many kindnesses and courtesies 
 «hown us during our short visit. 
 
 Through the kindness and courtesy of the Sir 
 Knights of St. Mungo, eacli of the pilgrims were pre- 
 sented with a complete guide book to the city of 
 ■Glasgow, each book having inscribed thereon the name 
 ■of each individual Sir Knight of the Commandery, and 
 •" with fraternal greetings from St. Mungo Encampment 
 of Knights Templar, of Glasgow," a work we proved of 
 invaluable service to us while there. 
 
 ^We took carriage and proceeded to visit the places of 
 interest in this fine old city, and perhaps no citj' in the 
 world furnislies so much of interest to the tourist as 
 does Glasgow. Scarcely can you turn from one street 
 into anotlier bvat some object of ancient and historical 
 interest is arrived at, and too short time we must say, 
 was allowed to take in all the sights with which this city 
 abounds. Glasgow has a population of about six hun- 
 hundred thousand, and is the third cit}'^ in point of 
 wealth in the United Kingdom. 
 
OF Ali.egheny Commandf.ry. • 217 
 
 In 1801 the entire population of Glasgow was only 
 about 15,000, which shows the remarkable growth up to 
 present date, of almost 100 per cent. It has always 
 been the veriest stronghold of Presbyterianism, and 
 therefore been constantly engaged in all the religious 
 struggles which have in their time racked good " Auld 
 Scotia'' from one extremity to the other. It will appear 
 a singular statement, but none the less a fact, when it is 
 known that only one hundred years ago the entire com- 
 mercial prosperity, and the entire capital of Glasgow was 
 invested in the tobacco trade. The finest mansions and 
 buildings in the city to-day are still the property of 
 what the civilians are pleased to sarcastically term the 
 " Tobacco Lords," in which connection, we might here 
 say, that in Britain, the mercantile business is not looked 
 upon in the light of Americans, the class of persons en- 
 gaged in business, particularly a " Draper," though 
 they may be the sovereigns of aristocracy in thought 
 and business qualifications, are looked upon as a very 
 common sort of people indeed. The late rebellion in 
 our own country to a large extent broke up the tobacco 
 business of Glasgow, and since that time her coal, iron, 
 cotton, ship building and marine interests have been 
 making gigantic strides towards eclipsing all other cities 
 in the world in vastness of commercial importance, the 
 shipbuilding of the Clyde alone, is almost as vast as all 
 the other ports of Britain combined. 
 
 Over £5,550,000 sterling or 21,150,000 dollars have 
 been expended in widening and deepening the Clyde, the 
 
2i8 Crusade to Europe 
 
 length of quay -wall being 17,000 feet, and the river in- 
 stead of admitting vessels of forty tons burthen, as it 
 did not a century ago, now admits the largest class of 
 vessels afloat. Few who have not visited Glasgow 
 within late years would recognize the place now, with 
 street railways, and the vast improvements going on by 
 the Caledonian Railwa}^ with a railroad bridge at the 
 " Broomielaw," and running up through the centre ot 
 the city, magnificent stations and elegant hotels. 
 
 Glasgow Cross is passed, and the scene of the mid- 
 night adventure of Francis Osbaldistone and Rob Roy, 
 aiid the old Court House, in front of which all criminals 
 were executed, a drive through Argyle street, and 
 Buchanan street, and we come to the Royal Exchange, a 
 handsome building erected, in 1829, costing £50,000. In 
 front of this building is a collossal bronze statue of the 
 Duke of Wellington, erected by private subscription, 
 and costing £10,000. Oh ! for a few Scotchmen, Irish- 
 men or Englishmen, just to loan us poor Americans one 
 of their thousands of fine statues, to commemorate the 
 name of the father of our countr3^ In George's square 
 are several fine monuments, the finest being one to Sir 
 Walter Scott, there are two bronze statues to Sir John 
 Moore and Lord Clyde, two brave generals, and natives 
 of Glasgow, also, one in bronze to James Watt, another 
 to Sir Robert Peel, and another to Dr. Graham, an 
 eminent chemist, also in the square equestrian statues of 
 Queen Victoria and the late Prince Consort. Facing the 
 square is the Andersonian University, attended b}' 1,700 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 219 
 
 students. The old Glasgow College on High street, is 
 now converted into a railway station. We then drive to 
 the Cathedral, the largest and best preserved building of 
 the kind in Scotland. This fine old structure was 
 founded in 1136 hy John Achains, who was appointed by 
 David I, to the Bishopric of Glasgow in 1127, and was 
 dedicated in 1136, but restored in 1191 by Bishop 
 Joceline. 
 
 The Cathedral is in length 319 feet, and sixt^^ three 
 feet wide. The interior contains 14'! pillars, and is 
 lighted by 159 windows. A splendid tower surmounted 
 by a graceful spire rises from its centre 225 feet in 
 height. The Choir, which is locally known as the High 
 Church, is now used by one of the city churches for their 
 place of worship, and behind it are the lady chapel and 
 chapter house, in the latter the bishops held their eccle- 
 siastical courts. The Dripping Aisle, so called from the 
 perpetual dropping of water from the roof, is the lower 
 part of the unfinished transept. The Crypt, under the 
 Choir, is not surpassed by any similar structure in Great 
 Britain. It is 108 feet long, 12 feet wide, supported by 
 sixtj^-'five pillars, some of which are 18 feet in circum- 
 ference, the height of each being 18 feet long. The 
 Iniilding contains many rich and ancient ornamental 
 tombs of the worthies of the old city, and of the digni- 
 taries of church and state. Mr. Edward Blore, imder 
 direction of the government, repaired and renewed certain 
 parts of the building which had fallen into decay. During 
 the progress of the operations, several fragments of 
 
Crusa.de to Europe 
 
 mouldings were found which had been used in filling 
 up some of the walls, of a much older date than any 
 part of the Cathedral, thus proving the existence of a 
 previous structure on or near "the same site. These 
 mouldings are of beautiful workmanship. In the j^ear 
 1856, the citizens of Glasgow projected a movement 
 to enhance the beauty ot the Cathedral, by a series 
 of stained glass windows. In this they were assisted 
 by the government, who placed the east window, the 
 finest in the series. The subjects in the windows are 
 arranged in chronological order, commencing with the 
 expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise, and other 
 Old Testament characters ; subjects taken from the 
 history of the Jews, the Prophets, and John the Baptist; 
 illustrations of the Parables, the Apostles and the 
 Evangelists. The Necropolis, adjoining the Cathedral, 
 rises steeply 200 to 300 feet in height. The entire 
 surface of the rock is divided into walks, and on evevy 
 hand are every variety of columns and monumental 
 erections, some being very beautiful in design. From 
 the side of this resting place of those who sleep therein 
 a very fine view of this solid city is to be had, with 
 its countless spires and chimney stacks, intersected by 
 the ship-laden Clyde. 
 
 A beautiful drive from here is had to and through 
 Sanchieliall street, at the western end of which are 
 elegant modern terraces and streets which constitute 
 the residences of the aristocracy of Grlasgow. Here is 
 Kelvin Grove, known as the West End Park, laid 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 out at an expense of £100,000 to the corporation. 
 A very elegant memorial fountain is in this Park, 
 erected to the late Lord Provost Stewart, who was 
 instrumental in introducing into Glasgow, for its 
 use, the clear and delightful water from Loch Katrine. 
 Pacing this beautiful park is the unusually handsome 
 structure, the University of Glasgow, and from the park 
 the view of this building is unusually fine. The floor 
 space of this building is 29,200 yards, or about six 
 acres, and has a tower 300 feet high. It is the most 
 complete and thorough institution of the kind in the 
 world, in every respect, the heating and ventilating of 
 the building being constructed on a method approved 
 by the professors. Por instance, the vitiated air is 
 withdrawn from the rooms by the suction power of 
 heated flues, and the fresh air is drawn down from 
 the middle height of the tower, and propelled over 
 the surface of very numerous and extensive hot water 
 pipes, by means of a steam engine acting as fanners ; 
 about two Tuillion cubic feet of fresh air may be pro- 
 pelled per hour through the fanners into the building. 
 Then there are the Botanic Gardens, beautifully laid 
 out, with a good collection of foreign plants, and the 
 Observatorj^, the famous Glasgow Green, and the 
 Broomielaw, or harbor of Glasgow, comprising an area 
 of seventy-six acres. The City of Glasgow is supplied 
 with water brought all the way from Loch Katrine, a 
 distance of forty miles, being of the purest quality, 
 and the supply is about 28,340,000 gallons, or nearly 
 fifty gallons per head. 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 Having- done thus as miicli of the town we could, 
 and as it was now almost 5 o'clock, we wended our 
 way back to the Cockburn hotel, to make preparations 
 for the reception and banquet to be tendered us in 
 the evening. 
 
 We must state an incident, however, of those poor 
 common plebeians, the Major and the Doctor. Passing 
 a trunk store, the necessitj^ of purchasing a. couple of 
 " Saratogas " flashed across the minds of the two, and 
 they must needs liail the driver to slacken his pace, pull 
 into the curb, and permit us to dismount. They were 
 " Closing Out Stock at a Great Sacrifice," in the trunk 
 shop, and it was a big bonanza to the Doctor and Major. 
 They finally struck two that just suited them — one was 
 seven guineas, the other " six pounds, fifteen." The}- 
 opened the trunk, put down the lid, played with the buc- 
 kles on the strap; the Major admired his curly locks in the 
 gilt buttons or nail-heads in the trunk, while the Doctor 
 examined his " amalgam " and " double uppers," or some 
 such thing in his business, in the nail-heads of the other. 
 In the meantime the Colonel and " Carlisle " had enjoyed 
 several games of croquet on the floor of the store, while 
 the other two were trying to calculate and find out what 
 the lad}^ who was waiting on them meant by saying she 
 would not let them have the two trunks for a " bawbee " 
 less, and the Colonel and " Carlisle " were only caused 
 to look up at hearing the Doctor commence an outflow of 
 refined German, while the Major was muttering something 
 about " Scire facias, nolo contendre, nolle pros," etc., 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 223 
 
 ill reply to the lady saying something about that inno- 
 cent little piece of money, the " bawbee." We righted 
 them, however, and finally " Carlisle " was urged on to 
 "jew " the woman down, and succeeded in spending the 
 funds of the two — our dentist and barrister. Returning 
 to the hotel, and relishing the good dinner in M^aiting for 
 us, we were called upon by our escort, and were driven 
 to the Queen's rooms, where was accorded us the largest 
 largest reception we had the honor and pleasure to re- 
 ceive while on our crusade. It was tendered us by St. 
 Mungo Encampment and the Masonic bodies of Glasgow 
 in general ; but the former body having charge of the 
 atfair, it was a reception in full Templar uniform. Ex- 
 Provost Bain, of Glasgow, occupied the chair, and de- 
 livered the address of " welcome" in words of which 
 only genuine -Scotchmen are capable of giving, and Sir 
 Knight Shaw, the Eminent Commander of St. Mungo 
 Encampment, also gave us hearty welcome to the bouii. 
 ties of St. Mungo in a few kind words, and the following 
 poem, written for the occasion of the grand reception 
 and banquet : 
 
224 Crusade to Europe 
 
 To the American Si?' Knights of Allegheny Commandejy, N'o. jj, 
 K. T., on their visit to Glasgoio, Scotland, Jttly 2jd, iSfS. 
 
 Ye valiant Sir Knights from far distant slrore, 
 As pilgrims you're welcome to Scotia once more ; 
 Where some of your forefathers first saw the light, 
 Ere they sailed to the west, with the craft to imite 
 In that glorious work, the red and the blue, — 
 In your land sought a home as citizens true, 
 And adopted your laws, and made them your own ; 
 They have fought for your cause, adorned your throne. 
 
 Hence naught can estrange, nor the ocean divide 
 
 These true hearts where precepts like ours doth reside ; 
 
 Where charity reigneth and unity c.well. 
 
 No creed in creation can ever excel 
 
 Those tenets so bright, those principles pure — 
 
 Love God and thy fellow man, wealthy or poor. 
 
 Though submerged for a while, that great mystic chain. 
 
 At sight of Old Erin, 'twas soon linked again. 
 
 With that kind of friendship there's none can withstand, 
 
 With pure aspirations, fraternal and grand ; 
 
 A cause that is holy, a cause that's sublime. 
 
 Embracing adherents of every clime. 
 
 Then here's to that hand of great enterprise, 
 Where the Star Spangled Banner majesticly flies. 
 Where Washington's name is displayed on your chart, 
 And the name of a brother dear to the heart. 
 Who, if found in distress is welcomed and cheered. 
 For feelings of charity there are not seared. 
 There none but the honest and just are enrolled. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 225 
 
 Well known to be such ere they enter the fold, 
 Not merely in name, but by scrutiny's lance. 
 Which raises you far above misguided France, 
 Who now are cast out like that fallen host,. 
 Whom Milton portrays in his Paradise Lost; 
 Rebellious, unfaithful they've heaped on them shame. 
 They've purchased dishonor, they've sullied their fame. 
 
 May Omnipotent power upon you attend. 
 
 To guard you wherever your tour doth extend, 
 
 I'hat nothing may happen to cause you regret 
 
 Is the heart wish of all who to-night here have met, 
 
 May that fire of friendship so nobly portrayed 
 
 By our sage from Kentucky in your ijreasts never fade; 
 
 And when to your far distant homes you return. 
 
 In your hearts may true friendship continue to burn. 
 
 Of this reception the North British Mail of Glasgow 
 the following clay, says : " One of the most snccessfnl 
 and enjoyable meetings ever held in Scotland in connec- 
 tion with the ancient order of Freemasonry took place 
 last evening in the Queen's Rooms. The occasion was 
 the reception of a deputation of American Sir Knii^hts 
 and brethren, some of whom were on a second pilgrim- 
 age to Europe. In order to make the reception worthy 
 of the occasion, all the arrangements which the Provin- 
 cial Grand Lodge of Scotland, and St. Mungo Encamp- 
 ment of Glasgow could devise were concluded, and those 
 who took an active part in the ceremony may be con- 
 gratulated on its signal success. For a long series of 
 years, ever since Masonry gained a footing in the United 
 States, reciprocal feelings and aspirations have been 
 breatlied from both sides of the Atlantic for its welfare, 
 and none were more willing to extend that feeling than the 
 
 o 
 
226 Crusade to Europe 
 
 brethren of the United States, whose forefathers, no 
 doubt, had first received the precepts of the order in the 
 old country. Shortly after eight o'clock the company 
 began to arrive at the Queen's Rooms, and there could 
 not have been far short of five hundred Masons of all 
 grades met to do honor to the distinguished American 
 Masons, the most of whom are clothed in their handsome 
 regalia as worn in America hy the Knights Templar. 
 Tliey were received through an arch of steel formed by 
 St. Mungo Encampment, and introduced b^^ their Emi- 
 nent Commander, W. F. Shaw, to the Provincial Grand 
 Master, Colonel Montgomery J^eilson." 
 
 After the reading of the poem we were soon seated to 
 a ro3'al feast, every delicacy of the season being spread 
 upon the banquet boards, and fully five hundred Tem- 
 plars and Masons sat down at that table, every one of 
 those five hundred, in their overflowing goodness of 
 Scotch heart, caring kindly for each of us " poor, hun- 
 gry, ill-fed" pilgrims in a foreign land. The tables were 
 ladened with sweet flowers, and large and beautiful silver 
 and crystal epergnes stood upon each table filled with 
 the most lovel}^ of cut flowers, the fragrance from and 
 the appearance of the whole resembling one vast garden 
 of the most beautiful gift of God to man. Those good 
 people had an American garden growing somewhere in 
 anticipation of our visit, for nothing that is plentiful with 
 us was missing in the way of fruits. It may be consid- 
 ered a pardonable breach of etiquette on our part if the 
 guests speak of the table of the host in tliis instance, for 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 227 
 
 everything savored so of the good things of this life, on 
 that evening, that to show our fellow brethren here in this 
 country how our fraters of St. Mungo anticipated our 
 American likes, we cannot refrain from mentioning a few 
 of the delicacies spread before us at that reception. 
 Following the more substantials were watermelons, cit- 
 rons, grapes, pears, peaches greengages, bananas, pine- 
 apples, and so on ; and is it necessary to add to this vul- 
 garit}" about eating, to say that every mother's son of 
 the pilgrims of Allegheny Commandery did their dut^^ 
 nobly on that occasion ? Our Eminent Commander re- 
 plied to the address of welcome by detailing the origin 
 of their visit to the old country, and referred to the kind 
 reception we had received in Ireland, before coming to 
 Scotland. " The grand Masonic chain," he said, " which 
 had been, so to speak, broken by the Atlantic, had been 
 linked again when they met their brethren of Ireland 
 and Scotland, and the present was by far the largest and 
 grandest link they had ever seen. He and his brethren 
 would not easily forget the kind reception they had that 
 night received. Their Grand Master had just referred 
 to the erection of a temple, but what better temple could 
 they have in view, than the one referred to by our Lord 
 Jesus Christ, in Avhich brotherl}^ love, charity and all the 
 graces had their abode. He concluded by wishing everj' 
 pi'osperity to the Freemasons of Scotland." The toast 
 was pledged with three ringing American cheers " sent 
 home" with an American skyrocket, a genuine " fizzer." 
 The " Queen and Craft" were pledged and enthusiastic- 
 ally received. 
 
228 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Brother Cowper, the American Consul at Glasgow^ 
 who occupied the vice chair, in welcoming his brethren, 
 said the Scotch were hard to become acquainted with, 
 but when one knew them thoroughly, they found them 
 possessed of the biggest hearts in the world." Brother 
 Ex-Provost, Sir James Bain, responded to the toast, the 
 '' President of the United States," and cheerfully re- 
 ferred to the kindness he had received while acting as 
 one of the Judges at the Centennial Exhibition in Phila- 
 delphia. Prof. Wm. H. Slack favored the company, in 
 answer to calls for him, with one or two of his most 
 pleasant songs, and we never recollect hearing Mr. Slack 
 in better trim for doing so than on that evening. 
 
 Speech followed speech and song followed song, 
 amono; which was a most pleasant feature. In the com- 
 pany were a body of Masons, composed entirely of 
 Highlanders, all dressed in their handsome kilt costumes 
 — and to see a handsome body of handsomely built 
 handsome men, commend us to our good Highland 
 fraters of St. Mungo — and we were treated to a couple 
 of Highland songs in their Gaelic tongue; the airs were 
 beautiful, and we are certain the words were also, and 
 tliey were sung to the music of the bagpipes — a novelty 
 to nearly all of the party. Deafening cheers ran through 
 that hall, one thousand feet stamped the pleasure of all, 
 and that substantial building was almost fairly made to 
 shake as round after round of applause went forth at the 
 words of speakers. After considerable speechifying had 
 been done, towards the close of the evening, when the 
 best of words were becoming a little droll. Major W. C. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 229 
 
 Moreland arose in response to a toast, and commenced his 
 remarks in an unusually low tone, and there sat the iex- 
 Provost of Glasgow, the Sheriff of Glasgow, the Provin- 
 cial Grand Master of Masons of Scotland and his officers, 
 and no one was expecting much from the manner in which 
 the speaker commenced ; but as he warmed up in his 
 eloquence, as he breathed forth his seemingly inspired 
 thoughts, as he worked out his wonderfully^ exquisite and 
 beautiful periods, with not a grammatical or rhetorical 
 error in his remarks, we looked around and saw those five 
 hundred heads motionless and still, those thousand eyes 
 and hands as immovable as the walls of the building 
 surrounding them. Assuredly on that evening he ex- 
 celled himself, for, on closing his remarks, had heaven's' 
 artillery rolled its loudest battery, it would have been 
 but as a whisper in that hall, compared with the terrible 
 outburst of actual yells and applause from those present. 
 Imagine if you can, dear reader, " Auld Lang Syne" 
 sung by such an audience ; it was the only '' Auld Lang 
 Syne " we ever heard. No wheedling "Auld Lang Syne," 
 but good Scotch " Auld Lang Syne " poured forth in 
 the broad accent of that noble people. 
 
 As the " wee sma' hours " were in upon us we parted 
 companjr, assuredly with deep regret. The hearty shake 
 of the hand to Allegheny by St. Mungo will ever be 
 impressed with the most vivid and pleasant of recollec- 
 tions ; the St. Mungo can ever rest assured that while 
 Allegheny lives she will ever remember the evening spent 
 'neath the tents of our warm-hearted, generous and kind 
 fraters of Glasgow. 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 '• CARLISLE " SEPARATED FROM THE QUARTETTE. 
 
 Despite the pleasantries of tlie evening alluded to, 
 through it all there was evidently in the interesting 
 proceedings and general mirth a sigh of sadness coming 
 at intervals from the Doctor on whose right sat " Car- 
 lisle," while on the left of the presiding officer's chair sat 
 the Major and the Colonel, over whose faces rested a 
 shade of melancholy ; and we feign would know the 
 reason of these sombre appearances. Towards the close 
 of the evening these became more apparent, until reach- 
 ing our rooms about one o'clock in the morning, the 
 stout heart of the Doctor completely gave way, and 
 bursting out into tears and howls, as we have known him 
 to do over a " deceased purp," he exclaimed, " Oh I 
 ' Carlisle,' must we go and leave you ? Oh, I am sorely 
 ' grieved.' " This " fetched down " the house. It was 
 too much for the Major and the Colonel, and immediately 
 every appearance of a funeral or a " wake " was in that 
 room; the tender "boo-hoos" of the Colonel brought 
 the hotel proprietor to see what poor soul was in grief ; 
 and although our separation was to be but for a day or 
 so, yet the trio refused to be comforted or consoled. 
 The Colonel perched on the side of the bed, his head 
 buried deep in a pillow resting on his knee, wliile on a 
 little bare spot on the summit of his cranium were nine 
 Scotch flies, drawn up like an American base-ball field ; 
 but to these the brave warrior was oblivious. But to 
 part we had. and " Carlisle " advised them to take it all 
 philosophically and we would soon be re-united once more. 
 Accepting which, they finally subdued their " overcome- 
 
OK Allegheny Commandery. 231 
 
 ness." We then proceeded to lay out our plans ; and 
 now we are satisfied the whole " boo-hooing- " plan was a 
 complete " set up" job to prey npon the feelings of poor 
 " Carlisle," as the sequel will show. 
 
 The Doctor, if anything, the deeper villain of the 
 three, commenced by saying, " ' Carlisle,' I had n't time 
 to get my ' washing done ' to-day, I'll leave it here, and 
 you bi'ing it to me at Edinburgh, and I'll settle with you 
 there." It evidently was a preconceived plan, for the 
 " Majah " and the Colonelboth had forgotten to attend 
 to that duty on that day, and '' Carlisle," innocentl}^ and 
 unsuspectingly, from the goodness of his heart, proffered 
 his ever-ready services to the distressed, and agreed to 
 do so. All three then fell upon the neck of " Carlisle "■ 
 and wept severely, the " boo-hoo-ing " was revived more 
 than ever, good-bye was repeated over and over again ^ 
 and we repaired to our room. The reason of the separa- 
 tion was, that having all gone over the ground the party 
 were going over, — viz. : to Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, 
 Sterling, etc. — we did not care to repeat it ; and as we 
 had many kind friends to see around Glasgow, we 
 separated, to overtake the party at Edinburgh. We will 
 return to the " wash bill " later on. 
 
 At 5 A. M., the following morning, Mr. W. Stilwell, 
 and "Carlisle" were called, had breakfast, and leaving 
 our fellow-companions comfortably asleep, we took train 
 for Hamilton. Having a " dog-cart " in waiting for us 
 b3^ Mr. William Wallace, of that place, we drove away 
 up to the Hairshawhead, four miles above Straven, and 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 twelve above Hamilton ; the drive is through a beautiful 
 country-, though hillj'-, but the air is so pure and free, 
 that 3'ou are at once invigorated and feel good and fresh. 
 Arriving at the Hairshawhead, we find our old kind and 
 good friend, Mr, James Semple, the owner of the place, 
 and with his estimable wife, we all enter the house to 
 eujoy a little social and pleasant chat. Perhaps no farm 
 in Scotland, vast as it is, comprising some seven hundred 
 acres, bears a better name for care and production than 
 the " Auld Hairshawhead," while at every fair is carried 
 away the first prize for stock by "Auld Hairshae." As 
 we could remain but a short time, we enjo3'ed a hearty 
 dinner, appetite for which had been given us by an earlj' 
 start and a long drive. We " buckled the beast," and 
 returned to Hamilton, spending half an hour and enjoy 
 ing the hospitality of our friend, Mr. Colin Spalding, 
 whose name is well known there as being the prince of 
 hotel keepers in his commodious and very comfortable 
 Commercial Hotel, under whose roof man}^ a pleasant 
 ■evening has been spent by the writer. 
 
 Having done ourselves the pleasure of calling on the 
 Misses Sommerville, of Hamilton, we took tea in the 
 pleasant little cottage of Mrs. James Main, whose 
 husband (now deceased) bore for many long j'-ears the 
 honor of Baillie of Hamilton. 
 
 By the way, here, allow us to suggest to intending 
 tourists to Scotland — by no means allow the points of 
 interest and beauties of Hamilton and Lanarkshire and 
 vicinit}^ to be missed in j^our sight-seeing. Hamilton 
 itself is a beautiful little town, and is noted for its fruit 
 
OF Allegheny Ccimmandery. 
 
 and flower gardens; In the old town is a spot called 
 " Queenzie Neuk," where Queen Mary rested on her 
 journey to Langside, and many other places of interest 
 in Scottish history. Here also is Hamilton Palace, the 
 seat of the Duke of Hamilton ; it is a magnificent build- 
 ing and is shown only to well introduced visitors. The 
 pillars of the portico, twelve in number, are twenty-five 
 feet high and fully ten feet in span, and are each formed 
 of a solid block of stone, quarried at Dalserf and 
 requiring thirty horses to draw each stone to its position. 
 Its interior is richly and fitly furnished and contains 
 a number of costly works of art and virtu. The picture 
 g-allery is one of the finest in Scotland, and contains 
 many famous pictures, such as the " Entombment of 
 Christ," by Ponssin ; " The Ascension," b}^ Giorgione ; 
 *'The Madonna of Corregio;'' "A Stag Hunt," by 
 Snyders ; Ruben's celebrated painting of " Daniel in the 
 Lion's Den," etc., etc., and there is some £15,000 worth 
 of rare prints. The plate, including a gold set, is 
 valued at £50,000. Then within the grounds is the 
 magnificent Mausoleum, and within short drives of the 
 Palace are Cadzow Castle, Bothwell Castle, a handsome 
 old ruin, Bothwell Bridge, the field of Dru_mclog, and 
 many such places identified with the Scottish wars and 
 history, over all of which we cannot in this work justly 
 go. Let us not, however, forget to mention the beautiful 
 Palls of Clyde, a short distance above the town of 
 Lanark, and tourists will be depi'ived of a rich treat in 
 not paying these pretty little Falls a visit, for these and 
 a,ll around this delightful section will find it more than 
 
234 Crusade to Euroi'e 
 
 nsaally attractive to readers, lovers and admirers of tliat 
 grand and noble old people, the Scotch. They are a 
 grand people in the truest sense of the word — no partic- 
 ular hurry and bustle, it is true; but straightforward, 
 honest and canny — you can depend on them every time. 
 
 A noticeable feature between this people and those of 
 the pretty Emerald Isle we have just left — and we mean 
 no disrespect in saying so (for it would be hard to find a 
 better people than the Irish) — and that is this : An 
 Irishman will tell you the longest Indian and snake 
 yarns for the honest, serious, pure God's truth ; but a 
 Scotchman will tell you the same yarns, but will add,. 
 " that it is ^aid to be true," or " aaid to have occurred." 
 While speaking of the Scotchman, we lately heard a 
 prettj^ good story of a Highlandman and an English 
 thorough Cockney in a row boat, away through the 
 Highlands somewhere ; and although it has no reference 
 to the subject in hand, the story is good enough to be 
 told anywhere and under any circumstances : 
 
 It appears the Highlandman was rowing a part\^ 
 across one of the lakes, and in tlie party was a thorough 
 Cockney, who thought it would be good fun to stand up 
 and rock the boat. The Highlander said to Mr. English- 
 man, " Tu had better sit doon or tu will fall oot." But 
 the rocking continued until, sure enough, Mr. Englishman 
 did " fall oot," and being unable to swim, the Highlander 
 reached for him, grabbing him by the top of the head,, 
 pulling away the wig of the Cockney. He reached for 
 him as he was disai)pearing for the second time, catching 
 
OK Allegheny Commandery. 235 
 
 him by the breast, this time pulling away his paper 
 "dickey," which so surprised the " Heelaudman '' that 
 he threw the imitation shirt and scalp into the bottom of 
 the boat and exclaimed, "My Grod, the man's made o' 
 remnants ! " 
 
 We were very sorry our time was so short here, for 
 this seemed to us to be our real home, and we should 
 have loved to have remained longer, so taking train we 
 returned to Glasgow, only ten miles distant from Hamil- 
 ton, and returning to the hotel somewhat tired, we sat 
 down to enjoy a cigar, when in came a party of about 
 one hundred, which proved to be the Young Men's 
 Christian Association from America, among whom was 
 our fellow-townsman, Mr. Robert Orr, who was looking 
 well. Of course the hotel that evening was of a 
 thoroughly religious character, and it was a gratification 
 indeed, to see so many young men engaged in this good 
 work, all on their way to Geneva, we believe, to exchange 
 congratulations with their brethren of the Old World 
 over their reformation of the wicked and worldl}^ Next 
 day we enjoyed in visiting friends in Glasgow, and we 
 were very sorry at being compelled to leave without 
 shaking hands with our friend, Mr. Hume. Through 
 the kindness of Mr. John B. Main, we were shown 
 through the enormous business house of Messrs. Arthur 
 & Compan}^, engaged in the general dry goods line. At 
 4 P. M. we bade good-bye to our friend, Mr. Stiiwell — 
 he to sail that evening on S. S. " Anchoria," of Anchor 
 Line, for home, and I to rejoin the party at Eldinburgh. 
 
236 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Calling at tlie office of the hotel for the aforesaid 
 " washing bill," which being presented, each separate 
 item was carefully scrutinized — the Colonel's, one pound 
 fifteen ; the Major's, one pound fourteen and two pence 
 ha'penny : and the Doctor's, one pound nine and a penny 
 three farthings ; which " bills of particulars" led us 
 fully to believe no " cleansing" had been done for either 
 of those three renowned personages for the past seven- 
 teen years, as was the self-confessed case of our Teutonic 
 friend engaged in the jewelry business. " Carlisle'' de- 
 murred at the payment of these gross amounts, and see- 
 ing no way to compromise on their confounded " soiled 
 linen," he determined to leave their collars and socks and 
 " sich" for the benefit of the poor ; we wanted to com- 
 promise by having the hotel people keep the " furnishing 
 goods" aforesaid if I would pay for the white ties these 
 plebeians had "embezzled" from "Carlisle's" satchels ; but, 
 evidently anticipating something of this kind, they at- 
 tached " Carlisle's " baggage, and as the hour for leaving 
 had come, we were compelled to pay up, and take their 
 abominable luggage along. 
 
 Let us say here, that nowhere on our trip did we en- 
 joy ourselves more, have a better place to stop at, and 
 more kind attention, than from Mr. and Mrs. Philp, 
 the proprietors of the New Cockburn Hotel, of Glasgow 
 — the latter being a native of Louisiana, and her genia^ 
 husband we have frequentl}^ met in our own city of Alle- 
 gheny. The hotel is newly built, newly furnished, and 
 is a model in every respect. 
 
OF ALLEGftENY COMMANDERY. 237 
 
 Seated in the cars were soon sonnd asleep, and 
 awakened only as we were entering the renowned old 
 city and capital of Edinburgh, Scotland, and, on look- 
 ing out of the windows of the cars, we saw Clinton and 
 Fnllerton and Moreland and Baxter linked arm-in-arm 
 sti'olling toward the hotel. We soon rejoined them. 
 
2^8 Crusade to Eorope 
 
 ^^ 
 
 Edinburgh. — Presentation of Bills to the Trio of the 
 " Quartette." — Reception and Banquet by the Pro- 
 vincial Grand Lodge. — Melrose and Abbottsford. — 
 Recherche Banquet at Leeds. — To London, and the 
 Doctor and " Carlisle," now t"wro poor and weary 
 pilgrims, traveling alone. — Incidents by the "Way. 
 
 As it was ahnost evening when we arrived in this 
 good old capital city of Scotland, and the Commandery 
 had arrived there during the night before, they had had 
 the opportunity of seeing all the objects of local and 
 historical points of interest which Edinburgh presents, 
 the writer having more than once visited its attractive 
 features, we did not care to again go over oft trodden 
 ground, so we need not, therefore, enter into anj^ detail 
 of its palaces, castles, monuments, etc., further than a- 
 casual glance of a few of the many points which would 
 interest the sight-seer for weeks, in following the won- 
 derful histor^r of Scotland, especially this ancient city 
 of that good old countr3', whose wars and fame rank 
 with those of the Romans, and have formed some re- 
 markable historical annals in the history of the world. 
 
OF Allegheny Commanderv. • 239 
 
 The site of Bdinburgli is generalh' admitted to be 
 one of the most striking of any of the European capi- 
 itals, and a more charming prospect than its liills present 
 cannot be conceived, and David Macbeth beautifully and 
 compreliensively describes its view and situation in the 
 following words : 
 
 " Traced like a map the landscape lies, 
 In cultured beauty stretching wide ; 
 There Pentland's green acclivities ; 
 There Ocean with its azure tide ; 
 There Arthur's seat; and gleaming through 
 Thy southern wing, Dunedin blue ! 
 While in the Orient, Lammer's daughters, 
 A distant giant range are seen, 
 North Berwick law, with cone of green, 
 And Bass amid the waters." 
 
 In- Princes street, a beautiful avenue, built only upon 
 one side, with pleasure gardens upon the other side, 
 stands the elegant monument to Sir Walter Scott, a 
 magnificent piece of work costing £16,000. The Ro3^al 
 Institution, the National Gallery of Painting, the High 
 School, the Philosophical Institution, etc., in the new 
 town, are all worthy a visit, and much time can pleas- 
 antly and profitably be spent yisiting them. 
 
 In close alliance to history, however, is the old town 
 of Edinburgh, and while the new is beautifully laid out, 
 terraced, and massively built with elegant modern build- 
 ings, with magnificent streets and drives, we will with 
 the reader take a little walk through the old town, and 
 take a hasty glimpse into a few of its famed courts 
 and noolcs; as every inch of this ground covers pages 
 
240 Crusade to Europe 
 
 in history we cannot dwell long with any, nor speak of 
 but a limited number. First, we come to the Uastle, which 
 stands upon a precipitous rock three hundred and eighty- 
 three feet above the level of the sea, and commands a 
 splendid view of the city and the surrounding country. 
 Before gunpowder was invented, it was considei'ed 
 entirely impregnable, but with Gatling and Krupp guns 
 of to-day, we fear sad havoc would be made of the 
 walls and the valuable inner apartments. This old 
 Castle is associated with many wonderful events, as 
 doubtless all are familiar with its history, the attack 
 upon it, in 1313, by Randolph, Earl of Moray, the 
 defense of it, in Queen Mary's behalf by Sir William 
 Kircaldy, and in 1650 its surrender to Oliver Cromwell. 
 In the Crown Room are deposited the regalia, the 
 insignia of Scottish royalty, consisting of the crown, 
 sceptre, sword of state, and Lord Treasurer's rod of 
 office. Adjoining the Crown Room is Queen Mary's 
 Room, where Queen Mary gave birth to James YI, in 
 whom the crowns of England and Scotland were united, 
 On the wall is the following inscription, surmounted 
 by the Scottish arms : 
 
 " Lord Jesu Chryst, that crounit was with thornse, 
 Preserve the birth, quhais Badgie heir is borne, 
 And send Hir sonne successione, to reigne still, 
 Lang in this realm, if that it be thy will. 
 Als grant, O Lord, quhat ever of Hir proceed. 
 Be to thy honer, and Praise, sobied. 
 19th, IVNII, 1566. 
 Upon the highest point of rock is Saint Margaret's 
 Chapel, the oldest in Scotland, as Queen Margaret 
 died in 1093, and close b}^ this is famous old " Mons 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 241 
 
 Meg," a gigantic piece of artillery, cast in Belginm, 
 in 1476, and having a history dating with the James's 
 of Scotland. It is at the bore twenty inches in 
 diameter, was used at the siege of Dumbarton in 1489, 
 and Worham in the reign of James lY, in 149 Y ; was 
 burst in 1683, in firing a salute of honor, removed to tlie 
 tower of London in 1684, and on the petition of Sir 
 Walter Scott, was restored to the Castle by the Duke of 
 Wellington in 1829. 
 
 Going down the High street, built up on either side 
 are houses with ten, eleven and twelve stories to each, and 
 it is no little source of amusement to see " washings" 
 hanging out from the topmost stories from oue side of 
 the street to the other, with a pair of hose looking 
 like a dot in the heavens, and articles of unmentionable 
 nature resembling but the very small end of an Ameri- 
 can boy's kite-tail on one of our fire alarm telegraph 
 wires. 
 
 Every building and dilapidated house and court 
 upon this street has a history, and was the residence of 
 some of the royalty, living in those disturbing days, and 
 whose lives and characters go to make up that history. 
 Upon the site of the Free Church Assembly Hall stood 
 the house of Mary of Guise, Queen of James Y, and 
 mother of Queen Mary. Then there is a small remnant 
 of the famous West Bow, which was ascended by Anne 
 of Denmark, James I, Charles I, Oliver Cromwell, 
 Charles II, James YII, and was the route by which the 
 Marquis of Montrose and the Earl of Argyle were con- 
 
 p 
 
242 Crusade to Europe 
 
 vej'ecl in the hangman's cart to their place of execution 
 in the Grassmarliet, and tlirougli this West Bow the 
 murderers of Captain Porteus hurled their victim, which 
 incident forms one of the most striking incidents in Sir 
 Walter Scott's Midlothian. Then we come to St. Giles 
 Church, a very ancient building, and belongs architect- 
 ui'ally to various times. It was in the choir of this 
 church, in 163*1, that Jenn}^ Geddes, a very devout lad}' 
 indeed, threw her cutty stool at the Dean of Edinburgh, 
 on his attempiing to read the new Episcopal service 
 book. 
 
 In Parliament Square also is the Parliament House, 
 the ancient meeting place of the Scottish Parliament, 
 but which has been appropriated since the Union for the 
 use of the Supreme Courts, in connection with which is 
 the Advocates' Librar}^, containing the most valuable col- 
 lection of books in Scotland, nurabering upwards of 
 200,000 volumes, including very rare and curious works 
 in Scottish poetry. 
 
 John Knox's house, provided for him in 1559, when 
 he was elected minister of Edinburgh, is also in High 
 street, where the great reformer resided from 1560 to 
 15t2, and passing on down by many objects of interest, 
 we come to Holy rood Palace. No building has ever, 
 before its foundation or since, passed through such 
 scenes of ambition, strife and bloodshed as has done the 
 original church of the Holy Rood. Founded and richly 
 endowed by King David I, as a church, it passes through 
 years of worship within its walls, is burned, rebuilt, be- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 243 
 
 comes the seat and home of royaltj^ and the scene and 
 seat of conspiracy, bloodshed, murder, crime, arson, &c., 
 with such rapidity as to malve its history a startling- 
 panorama. 
 
 Here resided the Duke of York, afterwards James 
 II, of England, the adventurous Charles Edward Stuart, 
 and the exiled Comte d'Artois, afterwards Charles X, 
 of France ; and George IV, on his visit to Edinburgh in 
 1822, held levees in the Palace, and it is still used by the 
 present Queen Yictoria as her residence on her visits to 
 and from the Highlands of Scotland. 
 
 The most interesting portion of the Palace of course 
 is Queen Mary's apartments ; we enter Queen Mary's 
 bedroom containing an ancient bed and some furniture. 
 On one side of the room is the door of the secret pass- 
 age by which the conspirators entered, and adjoining is 
 the cabinet where they found their victim, Rizzio. It is 
 said he was dragged from this to the door of the 
 Audience Chamber, where he was finally despatched, and 
 the exact spot where the body lay is identified by a stain 
 of blood, still visible. Darnley, who headed the con- 
 spirators, entered first, and casting " his arm fondly 
 round the Queen's waist, seated himself beside her at a 
 table. Lord Ruthven followed in complete armor, looking 
 pale and ghastly, as one scarcely recovered from long 
 sickness. Others crowded in after them, till the closet 
 was filled with armed men. While the Queen demanded 
 the purpose of their coming, Rizzio, who saw that his life 
 was aimed at, got behind her and clasped the folds of her 
 
244 Crusade to Europe 
 
 gown, that the respect due to her person might protect 
 him. The assassins threw down the table, and seized 
 upon the unfortunate object of their vengeance, while 
 Darnle}^ himself took hold of the Queen, and forced 
 Rizzio and her asunder. It was their intention, doubt- 
 less, to have dragged Kizzio out of Mary's presence, and 
 to have killed him elsewhere, but their fierce impatience 
 hurried them into instant murder. They dragged him 
 through the bed-room and ante-room and despatched 
 him at the head of the staircase with no less than fifty- 
 six wounds. Then there is the Abbey of Holyrood and 
 Queen Mary's bath, &c. Arthur's seat is a beautiful 
 drive, it being entirel}^ surrounded by a magnificent 
 roadway called the " Queen's Drive." We hastily 
 glance at the XJniversit}^, Greyfriars' Church and Church- 
 yard, Heriot's Hospital, the Dean Bridge, the Fettes 
 College and a drive through the beautiful streets in the 
 new town of Edinburgh, and j'ou have been with us on one 
 of the most delightful drives and walks possible in any 
 country. With a closely read history of Scotland, 3'ou 
 have here in Edinburgh much food for memory and 
 thought, and we need speak no fai'ther than we have 
 already hastily done, as but few can exist, who are not 
 as entirely familiar with its sights and historical objects 
 as though they had gone over the ground in person, if 
 they have have never done so in fact. 
 
 Upon entering the hotel, the " quartette" were soon 
 reimited, tears of joy flowed free as a never- failing 
 mountain stream, and mirth, merriment and rejoicing 
 
OF ALLEGHENY CoMMAMJKRY. 245, 
 
 were the order of the hour over the wandering '■ Car- 
 lisle's" return. Just think of it, " Carlisle" had been 
 absent from them for over two days, or as you like it, 
 they had been absent from " Carlisle" for over two 
 days. 
 
 " ! my, how glad we are to see you once more, my 
 dear ' Carlisle ' ! '' " How, oh ! how we have missed you, 
 ' Carlisle ' ! " and such expressions gushed forth from 
 the mouths and hearts of these scheming plebeians ; 
 and while this "taffy'' business was going on, "Car- 
 lisle" inwardl}^ chuckled over tlie " Sweet Williams" in 
 his pocket, which would soon bring forth such " bless- 
 ings " as the Irish women of Queenstown pour out upon 
 you when j^ou refuse to bu}^ an}'^ of their sweet little 
 shamrock or gooseberries, etc. Tapping the Doctor on 
 the watch-chain, for we couldn't reach up to his shoul- 
 der, we called him over to one side, and, in a low tone, 
 said : " One pound, nine and a penny three farthings ? '' 
 "Wliat for? " jrelled the Doctor, his joyous expression 
 of face over " Carlisle's '' return, changing to one of 
 savage madness. ''Washing!'' whispered "Carlisle." 
 "Washing ? " yelled the now almost maniac, and said he 
 never would pay it. "All right, Doctor, if it suits you, 
 we can stand it," we replied. Tearing to further dis- 
 turb the guests of the hotel, we called the Major and our 
 gallant Colonel out, and wandering away up to old 
 " Mons Meg '' (the aforementioned small sized cannon 
 in the Castle,) we got the commander to load old 
 " Mons '' up, and to fire her off when the " Majah " and 
 
246 Crusade to Europe 
 
 the Colonel were about to reply. Putting a cart-load of 
 powder into old " Mons," we seated ourselves on that 
 high eminence on which the Castle is situated, covering 
 that magnificent view, and calling their attention, we 
 whispered to the Major, " One pound fourteen and two- 
 pence ha'penny ; " and to the Colonel, " One pound, 
 fifteen ; '' when up jumped the two with a ferocious, 
 
 demoniacal yell. '' Ah ! " but we could n't hear the 
 
 remainder of the sentence, as our scheme with old "Mons 
 Meg" worked like a charm; for at that moment she belched 
 forth her fire and smoke, drowning at least a little of the 
 soft intonations of the gentlemen's voices. " Never pay it 
 — never would ! " echoed from them. We chuckled still 
 further when we thought of about a hundred pounds' 
 worth of new clothing in our trunk as "collateral" for 
 their battle-worn linen, without buttons even ; and we 
 thought the " collateral " good, too, remembering that 
 one coat of the Doctor's would make us a suit for sum- 
 mer and an overcoat for winter. Hinting the same, and 
 stating we would immediately foreclose on the security, 
 the gentlemen " came down " handsomely, paid their just 
 bills, and, sotto voce, " Carlisle " was in another " pound, 
 seven and six." 
 
 At eight o'clock on this evening, we were waited upon 
 by an escort, or rather a committee, from the Grand Lodge 
 of Masons of Edinburgh, Scotland, and taken to Free- 
 masons' Hall, where another reception was tendered us ; 
 and coming as it did .entirely spontaneously, and without 
 any previous notice, was one of the most enjoyable affairs 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 247 
 
 of the kind occurring on our tour. We were shown the 
 beauties of the Grand Lodge room, the beauty and skill 
 of the portraitures on the walls and ceiling, after which 
 an exchange of congratulations with our newly-made 
 friends, for we soon all knew each other as well as 
 though we had been acquainted for years. We were 
 conducted into the Board Room, and there sat down to a 
 magnificent banquet table, covered with the good things 
 of this life. Toasts, speeches, song and pleasant conver- 
 sation soon passed the hours away. Of this reception and 
 banquet the Edinburgh Gourant with others speak thus : 
 "Another Masonic meeting similar to the one held on 
 Tuesday evening, (alluding to one tendered upon invi- 
 tation to Mary Commandery, No. 36, of Philadelphia,) 
 took place in Freemasons' Hall last night for the pur- 
 pose of welcoming a ' Masonic Pilgrimage' from America. 
 Brother William Mann, Past Senior Grrand Warden, 
 occupied the throne on the occasion ; Brother Dr. J. Car- 
 michael, R. W. M. of St. Andrew's, No. 48, acting as 
 Senior Grand Warden ; and Brother W. Greig, Grand 
 Master of St. Stephen's, No. 145, acting as Junior 
 Grand Warden ; and these were supported by repre- 
 sentatives of Grand Lodge and Masters of Lodges in the 
 metropolitan province, who received the pilgrims as 
 Master Masons. Amongst the members of Grand Lodge 
 present were — Brothers D. Murray Lyon, Grand Secre- 
 tary ; David Kinnear, Grand Cashier ; R. S. Brown, 
 representative of the Grand Lodge of Kentucl^y ; Dr. 
 Loth, representative of the Grand Orient of France ; Dr. 
 Walter S. Carmichael, Dr. Dickson, Lindsay Mackersey, 
 
248 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Schopp, and Kay, &c. The visitors were members 
 of the Allegheny Commander}^, No. 35, of Knights 
 Templar, of Pennsylvania, at present on a pilgrimage 
 from America to Ireland, Scotland, England, Holland, 
 Belgium, the Rhine, Switzerland, Italy, and the Paris 
 Exposition, About thirty of them attended the meet- 
 ing. On the arrival of the memberSj Grand Lodge was 
 opened in the first degree, and the visitors were received 
 with the customary honors, when a few words of hearty 
 welcome were addressed to them from the throne. Tlie 
 Grand Master extended to each a fraternal greeting on 
 the part of the brethren present, and the Eminent Com- 
 mander Brother Smith suitably acknowledged the wel- 
 come, expressed the gratitude of his brethren for the 
 manner in which they had been received, and the hope 
 that in America they would soon have an opportunity of 
 receiving visitors from the Grand Lodge of Scotland. 
 Brother Hay then in a few sentences referred to the 
 presence of Brother Dr. Morris, whose name as an 
 author in Masonic literature was so well known to ever^^ 
 reading Mason, and craved leave specially to thank the 
 learned brother for his visit. This was carried with 
 acclamation, and Brother Ha}^ tastefully discharged the 
 duty thus placed upon him. Dr. Morris, in the course of 
 his repl^'^, directed the attention of the visitors to the 
 hall of Grand Lodge. Its beauty, and the skill 
 displayed in the portraiture on its walls, would not, he/ 
 assured them, be excelled in an}' Masonic temple the;; 
 might visit, though some would be seen more costly and\ 
 more elaborate : and he congratulated Grand Lodge on 
 
OF Allkghkny Commandery. 249 
 
 tlici possession of such a gem. Grand Lodge was then 
 closed, and the brethren thereafter adjourned to the 
 board-room, where they sat down to a banquet. After 
 some time liad been spent in friendl}^ conversation, a 
 number of toasts were given from tlie cliair, comprising 
 " The Queen," " The President of tlie United States," 
 and then the toast of the evening — " Tlie Yisiting 
 Brethren." In speaking to the latter the acting Grand 
 Master expressed the pleasure which it afforded the 
 brethren to see the visitors in Scotland, and the hope 
 that their " pilgrimage " would tend to many private 
 fraternal friendships, and to the benefit of the craft 
 throughout the universe. Brother Smith made a 
 very happy i"eph^, enumerating the many invitations 
 they had received since the idea of their trip across the 
 Great Pond first oozed out, and the kindly, enthnsiastic 
 manner in which those already implemented had' been 
 fnlfilled. He trusted that these meetings would be like 
 ripples on the water, which would ever increase, and 
 would still be growing after their return to America. In 
 concluding, lie proposed " The Grand Lodge of Scot- 
 land," and that toast was drank with all honors, 
 including what the Americans styled a " skj^-rocket." 
 Brother Hay acknowledged the toast, and expressed the 
 pride with which they found at Grand Lodge representa- 
 tives from the most of the Grand Lodges of all America, 
 He trusted that their brethren would appreciate the 
 welcome now given them by Scottish Masons, would 
 appreciate Scottish hospitality, and also Scottish whiskey, 
 although there did not happen to be any of it on the table. 
 
250 Crusade to Europe 
 
 (Applause and laughter.) Brother Dr. Morris proposed 
 " The music and poetry of Freemasonry,'' and in the 
 course of his speech remarked that nothing had ever 
 surprised him more when he began to study the subject 
 than to find that while they had in their order such men 
 as Scott, Ferguson, James Hogg, and Tom -Moore, and 
 many other writers, none of them, with the exception of 
 Burns, had ever vrritten a single line of Masonic verse. 
 How Scotland's great poet and novelist. Sir Walter 
 Scott, could have written so much poetry as he did, and 
 never have found anything in the symbols and ceremo- 
 nies of Masonry to write about was marvelous to him — 
 (Hear, hear) — and he thought sometimes that these 
 portions of his works must have been suppressed. In 
 conclusion, Dr. Morris recited some verses ,of his own, 
 which were afterwards excellently sung by Brother Slack, 
 and were much admired. Brother Mackersey next pro- 
 posed " The Grand Lodges of America." He remarked 
 that there was one in every State, and that all of them 
 were in a most flourishing condition, and were conducted 
 in a most creditable manner. He expressed towards 
 them the best wishes of the brethren in Scotland, and 
 the hope that mutual good feeling would long continue, 
 and would be cemented by many such meetings as the 
 present. Brother Major Moreland replied in an eloquent 
 address, in the* course of which he said he had no doubt 
 that when they went back to America they would give to 
 each country visited by them that niche in their 
 memory and that part in their hearts which such acts of 
 hospitality as they were now receiving so richly and 
 
OF Allegheny Commanuery. 251 
 
 warmly warranted them in assigning. Brother R. S. 
 Brown then gave " The Masonic Literature of America," 
 in replying for which Dr. Morris referred to the position 
 in Masonic literature taken by Brother D. Murray Lyon, 
 and congratulated the Grand Lodge in having appointed 
 him as Grrand Secretary at a time when that office was 
 so anxiously looked to in America as in other parts. 
 Brother Smith then proposed " The Chairman ; " the 
 " Health of the Croupiers " was given from the chair ; 
 and afterwards, at the close of " Auld Lang Syne," the 
 company separated. Several songs were given in the 
 course of the evening in excellent style, particularly by 
 the American brethren, and altogether the meeting was 
 voted a most successful gathering. The general 
 arrangements by Brother D. Murray Lyon for the two 
 receptions that have taken place this week, and the 
 purveying by Brother Theim, were admirable. 
 
 But before passing over this happy evening, happily 
 spent, among happy friends and brethren, we must insert 
 a remark made by a venerable and worthy brother of the 
 Grand Lodge, holding a high position therein, in the 
 course of his speech when he alluded to the Grand 
 Lodge having tendered Mary Commander}^, No. 36, of 
 Philadelphia, a reception an evening or so previous, he 
 said " he thought that Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
 had rather the nicer body of men." Oh ! now we have 
 gone and done it sure. We did not intend to insert that, 
 actually, but now that it is done, there is no use crying- 
 over spilled milk at all. We have always had since 
 
252 Crusade to Europe 
 
 childhood' the strongest kind of an inclination to make 
 some person or persons angry, and we did not know a 
 better place to commence than on the good nature of 
 Mary Commandery. Of her members we can truthfully 
 say, they are as fine a body of men as ever stepped from 
 the Templar Asylum, and we know Mary, ISTo. 36, loves 
 Allegheny No. 35 from the bottom of her large heart ; 
 but oh, what a pity No. 35 ever made two European 
 Crusades, and has been made the recipients of so much 
 distinction and so many favors in Europe. Just think — 
 Allegheny Commandery ahead all the time. But we 
 pray thee, Mary, darling, don't be angry with us, dear ; 
 it was n't Allegheny Commandery's fault made that 
 brother say that. " Carlisle " was along ; that did the 
 business. The worthy brother could n't help it. Don't 
 take it too hard, Mary. Allegheny No. 35 can't help 
 having these good things said of her. 
 
 Next morning at 6:20 we were on our way to Melrose 
 and Abbottsford — the ride thither being of a most pleas- 
 ing character. On emerging from the tunnel after 
 leaving the station at- Edinburgh, a view is obtained on 
 the right, of Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Palace, and ruins 
 of St. Anthony's Chapel. Passing Portobello and the 
 grounds of Dalhousie Castle, we obtain a beautiful pros- 
 pect of the Pentland Hills. All along the route we pass 
 places, points and spots of historic interest, as we believe 
 every inch of Scottish soil is historic at any rate. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 253 
 
 Arriving at Melrose, our two railway carriages are 
 uncoupled and switched to a side track to await our 
 return from a visit to Melrose, the Abbey and Abbotts- 
 ford. 
 
 Melrose is a neat little city of some fifteen hundred 
 inhabitants. In the centre of the market place is a 
 stone cross bearing date of 1642, and opposite the 
 King's Arms Hotel is a gabled house, of date 1635, 
 where General Leslie slept on the night before the battle 
 of Philliphaugh. 
 
 The Abbey is about five minutes walk from the 
 station. It was founded by David I., in 1136, but not 
 completed until 1146, and we may be permitted to say 
 here, for a founder of churches and monasteries, &c., 
 David I. bears away the palm, as nearly all claim to have 
 been founded by that religiously inclined individual. It 
 was destroj^ed by the English in 1322, and four years 
 later was rebuilt from a fund of £2,000, equal to 
 £50,000 of the money of the present day, by King 
 Robert Bruce. It is a beautiful "ruin, its style of 
 magnificence entitling it to be classed among the most 
 perfect work of the best age of ecclesiastical archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 In 1385 it was partially burnt by Richard II.; in 
 1545 it was despoiled by Evers and Latoun ; and again 
 in the same year by the Earl of Hetford. Oliver Crom- 
 well amused himself a little while also by bombarding it 
 from Gratton side, on the other side of the river. 
 
254 Crusade 'jo Europe 
 
 The estates of the Abbey were granted by Queen 
 Mary in 1566, to James Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, by 
 whose forfeiture, in 156t, they reverted again to the 
 crown, and the usufruct, with the title of commendator, 
 was conferred the following year upon James Douglass, 
 second son to Sir William Douglass of Lochleven. Sir 
 Walter Scott retains some of the lines of a popular 
 satire on the monks of Melrose Abbey, which probably 
 explains the reason of their mode of life being ob- 
 noxious to the Reformers : 
 
 " The monks of Mekose made fat kail 
 On Fridays when they fasted ; 
 And neither wanted beef nor ale, 
 As long as their neighbor's lasted." 
 
 The Duke of Buccleuch is its present custodian, and 
 to him the public is indebted for its careful preservation. 
 The church is in the usual form of a Latin cross, with a 
 square tower in the centre eighty-four feet in heiglit. 
 The entire length of the building is 258 feet, and the 
 breadth of its transepts 131 feefc. 
 
 The parts in best preservation are the choir, tran- 
 sept, part of the nave and nearly the whole of the 
 southern aisle. The nave is bordered by two aisles, and 
 intersected by what was formerly an organ loft. In the 
 right or south aisle are eight small chapels, lighted by 
 richly traceried windows and supported by double flying 
 buttresses. In one of the niches of these buttresses 
 there is a mutilated figure of the Virgin Mary and child, 
 and in another, to the e^st, a statue of St. Andrew, the 
 patron saint of Scotland. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 255 
 
 The nortli transept, beautifuil^^ lighted by a circular 
 or oriel window, repreKsenting t.he crown of thorns is one 
 of its beauties. The window is one of rare beauty in 
 the specimen of that style of ancient art, and the late 
 Sir Walter Scott alludes to it in his Lay of the Last 
 Minstrel, thus beautifully^ : 
 
 " Thou wouldst have thought some fairy hand 
 Twixt poplars straight the osier wand 
 In many a freakish knot had twined ; 
 Then framed a spell when the work was done, 
 And changed the willow wreath to stone." 
 
 The heart of the Bruce was deposited in this place 
 after the aitempt of the good Sir James of Douglass 
 to carry it to the Holy Land, although the King's body 
 had been interred at Dunfermline. 
 
 Among the many curious epitaphs in the graveyard 
 is the following : 
 
 The earth goeth The earth builds 
 on the earth on the earth 
 
 Glistring like gold. Castles and touers; 
 
 The earth goes The earth says 
 to the earth to the earth 
 
 Sooner than it wold. All shall be ours. 
 
 Leaving this handsome old ruin, v/e found carriages 
 in waiting for us, and were at once driven to Abbotts- 
 ford, the abode of the wonderful poet and novelist. Sir 
 Walter Scott, which is beautifull}^ situated, overlooking 
 the fine sweep of the river, and all through the thick 
 woods surrounding Abbottsford are winding walks 
 planned and laid out by Sir Walter Scott himself. 
 
256 Crusade, to Euroi'E 
 
 It is a beautifully made up building — Abbottsford — as 
 almost eveiy building celebrated in ancient liistoiy have 
 contributed something to its erection ; pieces from Holy- 
 rood, Dunfermline, Linlithgow, and the churches of Mel- 
 rose and Roslin have furnished their share. In the armory 
 are collections of warlike instruments, old trophies, 
 curiosities, &c., among which may be mentioned Rob 
 Ro3^'s gun, Montrose's sword, the gift of Charles I., 
 Grahame of Claverhouse's pistol ; pistols found in 
 Napoleon's carriage after Waterloo ; Hofer's blunder- 
 buss, James the Sixth's hunting flask, Roman spear 
 head, thumbkins and other instruments of torture. 
 Then there is the Library, the Study witli his old chair 
 in which we all sat, the dining hall, &c., all full of inter- 
 esting objects. The present proprietor of Abbottsford 
 is J. R, Hope Scott, Esq. 
 
 Our time being up, we hurried back to the station, 
 only to find an accident had occurred somewhere along 
 the railroad, and our train was some two hours late. 
 Becoming hungry, we wandered back into the town, and 
 James Milliken, Clinton, Fullerton, Moreland, Smith, 
 the Colonel, and " Carlisle" cleared out the two bakeries 
 of the village in little less than no time. Poor Mrs. 
 Mifflin, delicate as she was, had gotten about halfa- 
 crown's worth " cookies," and was sitting all by her 
 little lone self, getting away with them. Poor Mrs. M.! 
 how our hearts went out to her in her being so delicate I 
 We spoke of the same in a former letter. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 257 
 
 Finally, the train came along, the Knights of Sub- 
 mission business was reopened more vigorously than 
 ever before ; Mrs. Slack, our mother, sat up two nights 
 endeavoring to rebuild the Doctor's duster, and at 6 P. 
 M. we arrived in Leeds, in " Merrie Old England," two 
 hours and a half late, in which we were sadly disap- 
 pointed, as Leeds Priory had called a special conclave 
 at a special hour, that we might be received in open 
 Priory, as will be seen by the following orders issued by 
 the officers of Leeds Priory: 
 
 FIDELITY PRECEPTORY 
 
 Royal and United Religious and Military Orders of the 
 Temple and Malta. 
 
 Sir Knight S. E. SEANOR, E. P. 
 
 Dear Sir Knight : 
 
 An emergency meeting will be held on Friday, the 26th 
 inst., at 5:30 P. M., at the Fidelity Rooms, Carlton Hill, Leeds, at 
 which the members of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, Knights 
 Templar, of Pennsylvania, America, will be present. 
 
 A banquet will be given by the Preceptory to the American 
 visitors at the Great Northern Hotel, Leeds, at eight o'clock, to which 
 you are invited to be present, and may introduce a lady. Tickets for 
 which may be obtained of myself, 29 Bond Street, not later .than 
 Thursday, the 25th inst. 
 
 I am, dear Sir Knight, 
 
 Fraternally yours, 
 
 J. J. BOSWELL, 18O, 
 
 Regis t7'ar. 
 
 Q 
 
258 ■ Crusadte to Europe 
 
 As stated, owing to our arriving late, we could not 
 visit their Priory, much as we desired to do so ; so barber 
 shops were hunted down, barbers made wealthy, and at 
 8 P. M. we were escorted to the Grreat Northern Hotel, 
 where we received another reception, the most recherche 
 affair we had the pleasure of attending. 
 
 Every arrangement was so complete, a drawing-room 
 had been set apart for a cloak-room, and the spaciou s 
 dining-hall, with its rows of tables covered with beau- 
 tiful white linen and decorated in the highest style, and 
 being so profusely and richl}^ laden with the luxuries 
 spread upon them, it was a most beautiful sight. It 
 was a full dress reception, the gentlemanly Knights of 
 Leeds Priory being accompanied, and the occasion 
 graced, by the wives, daughters, and most beautiful 
 ladies of Leeds. A very handsomely gotten up menu was 
 prepai'ed , and the following toasts printed upon the other 
 side was in each plate : 
 
 BANQUET, JULY 26th, 1878. 
 I. Her Gracious Majesty, the Queen. 
 II. The President of the United States. 
 
 III. The Grand Patron of English and the Most Eminent 
 
 Commander of American Knights Templar. 
 
 IV. To All Eminent Knights Templar and Freemasons of 
 
 Every Grade. 
 V. Our American Visitors. 
 VI. The Ladies. 
 
 During the banquet these toasts were severally 
 announced from the chair "by Eminent Sir Samuel E. 
 Seanor, the E. P. of Fidelity Preceptory, and responded 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 259 
 
 to by the various persons amioiinced to respond to each. 
 Kind words of welcome and congratulation came from 
 the speakers. The order of toasts being " Her Most 
 Gracious Majesty the Queen," " The President of the 
 United States," " The Grand Patron of English and the 
 Most Eminent Commander of American Knights Tem- 
 plar," " To all Eminent Knights Templar and Free- 
 masons of every grade," " Our American Visitors," and 
 " The Ladies," the latter being responded to by our 
 Captain-General, Sir William C. Moreland. From his 
 wonderful vocabulary of language, and in his beautiful 
 oratory, was paid a lovely tribute to women in general — 
 the ladies of Leeds — those present in particular. How 
 kind those good fraters of Leeds were, none but those 
 who participated in their hospitality on that occasion 
 can know ; and though years may roll round, and should 
 many such occasions be enjoyed, never will the memory 
 of that pleasant and happy evening be forgotten. Of 
 one thing we are positive, that never shall we forget the 
 hospitality, the hearty welcome, the knightly and 
 friendly greeting of Sir Samuel Seanor and his good 
 wife, and the kind and beautiful face of his charming- 
 daughter, our vis-a-vis on that evening, and our newly 
 made but warm friend, J. Smiley Coey, Esq.; and 
 as, since our pleasant visit to Leeds, venerable father 
 Time has wrought happy changes in that assembly, 
 so that our charming lady friend, the daughter of 
 Eminent Sir Seanor is now the loving wife of our friend 
 Mr. Coey, may we be permitted to wish in these lines, 
 their lives to be long spared to each other, to go 
 
26o Crusade to Europe 
 
 through this world with the ver}'- smallest portion of 
 life's sorrows allotted to mankind as their share, and 
 ever may their love be pvire as the mountain air, clear 
 and sparkling as the dewdrop, touched by the kisses of 
 the glad morning sunbeam upon the leaf, and as refresh- 
 ing as the cold mountain stream trickling from its 
 hidden fountain in the rocks, is our earnest prayer and 
 hearty wish. 
 
 At 11 P. M. we returned to our hotel, bade our 
 friends good-bye, and the "Quartette" were soon comfort- 
 ably ensconced in a decent car, known to us as a " Pull- 
 man Drawing-Room Sleeping Car," and, oh ! how we 
 enjoyed meeting a good old friend — a genuine, real Pull- 
 man Sleeper. Our berths being made up, we were soon 
 fast in the " arms of Morpheus," to awaken at 7 A . M. in 
 the Midland Grand Depot and Hotel in the great city of 
 London, where we arrived at the appointed hour. On 
 that day our company was to be in part broken — the 
 " Quartette" was then and there to be finally split and 
 separated. Before leaving England for the Continent, 
 we can see — on looking back over our trip through Ire- 
 land, Scotland and England — in our receptions at these 
 various places a cool, calm and premeditated determina- 
 tion on the part of our f raters of the Old World to 
 massacre us in and under the guise of kindness. It was 
 nothing but " come and eat," " come and eat," from the 
 time we landed till the time we left ; a pure case of 
 attempt at murder by gorging, either for vengeance on 
 the party of 18tl for having such men as Judge Heath, 
 
OF Allegheny Commander y. 261 
 
 Judge Sholes, Senator Rambo, &c., along, who had 
 eaten them nearly out of house and home on that 
 crusade, or to deter other bodies from maldng a similar 
 pilgrimage in another year ; and that our readers may 
 judge of the way we were feasted, a few comparisons in 
 weights will sufficiently prove. The Doctor at New 
 York, one hundred and ten pounds, at London, two hun- 
 dred and ten ; the Major, at New York, one hundred 
 and thirteen and a quarter pounds, at London, one 
 hundred and ninety- six pounds fourteen ounces; ihe 
 Colonel, at Utah, ninety-six pounds ten ounces, at Lon- 
 don, two hundred and twenty-six pounds, seven and a 
 half ounces ; Jacob Laucks, Esq., at New York, one 
 hundred and fourteen pounds, at London, forty-seven 
 pounds. (We can only account for loss in the latter 
 case from his excessive noise and boisterousness.) 
 " Carlisle," at New York, one hundred and forty-four 
 pounds, at London, one hundred and fifty. (It will be 
 observed in this case that six pounds in addition to 
 " Carlisle's" weight would be a bona fide increase, and 
 no gorging there.) These will do as instances, and we 
 dread giving additional ones. The day we arrived in 
 London we spent in sight-seeing, and as the Doctor and 
 " Carlisle" were pressed for time, we could not take all 
 of the tour as laid down for the party for the Continent, 
 so we booked as fellow-travelers from London alone, 
 and as we came back to London before sailing for home, 
 we will see what is to be seen there. At 8 P. M. we 
 bade good-bye to all in our party, not without regret, 
 for we had many of us met as strangers but were part- 
 
262 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ing now as friends. We could not prevent the ladies of 
 
 the party falling upon our necks and . "Well, it's 
 
 all right, we won't tell the rest. Mrs. M., of Philadel- 
 phia, did n't fall on us, however, for this trip would have 
 been an unwritten history, so far as " Carlisle" or the 
 Doctor were concerned, forever. Our recollections of 
 all are most pleasant. True, every one has their little 
 peculiarities — who hasn't? we have, we know — but 
 these can be all overlooked ; and we say again, that 
 there never could have been thirty-eight persons more 
 congenial and gentlemanly towards each other than were 
 those of the Pilgrimage Party of Allegheny Com- 
 mandery during 18T8. To each one belongs more or 
 less of the many pleasant days we all enjoyed together ^ 
 and to each one we are indebted for his or her share of 
 the pleasure during the crusade. On this point we will 
 have something more to say a few pages further on in 
 this work. 
 
 As stated, at 8 P. M. the Doctor and " Carlisle" took 
 train — two fellow-travelers alone now — for j^ewhaven, 
 Dieppe and Paris, and a royal good trip we did have. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 263 
 
 A Saturday Night's Ride to Paris. — The T-wo Pilgrims 
 in Paris. — Meeting of Friends in Cologne. — Acci- 
 dent on the Rhine.— Bingen. — Mayence. — Heidle- 
 berg. — Bale. — Lake Lucerne. — Brunig Pass and 
 Brienz Valley. — Interlaken. — Berne. — Martigny to 
 Ohamouny, over the Tete-Noire. — Geneva. — To 
 London. — Incidents by the Way. 
 
 ll^E were now " two poor and weary pilgrims '^ 
 traveling alone, all by their own little and 
 big selves and going into a country and 
 countries, where the inhabitants "thereof could speak 
 their language in a much more proper and refined man- 
 ner than could either of the aforesaid pilgrims, for 
 neither of them could speak or understand one word of 
 the French language. 
 
 Owing to the hour, darkness soon interrupted our 
 seeing the country through which we were passing, so 
 conversation was our pleasant pastime, and reflection of 
 the many new friends and acquaintances made during 
 the past three weeks, and the incidents transpiring, as 
 related iu our past letters. 
 
264 Crusade to Europe 
 
 In our compartment were two ver^^ pleasant and 
 entertaining English gentlemen, who gave us much valu- 
 able information. With us also was a gentleman clad in 
 navy-blue uniform, with gilt buttons, wearing a gondola 
 hat, around which was a band lettered in gold, " Tourist 
 Agent." We found him to be a conductor for that firm 
 taking over a regular Saturday evening excursion to 
 Paris, consisting of about four hundred persons. From 
 him also we derived much important information, par- 
 ticularly the Doctor, he being compelled to carry out the 
 " Colonel's '' part of the programme — arranging and 
 keeping the " itmerary " so faithfully executed by our 
 friend of Appomattox fame. 
 
 Just prior to our arrival at Newhaven, Mr. Con- 
 ductor Tourist gave us the valuable hint that, owing to 
 the heavy train, some difficulty might ensue on our ar- 
 rival at Newhaven in securing a berth on the Channel 
 steamers ; but as he knew all the ropes, b}'' following 
 him we might obtain an advantage over the rest ; and 
 one thing we might say here : an Englishman is away 
 behind on taking up hints and dodging into places satis- 
 factory to his own comfort. 
 
 It may be mean, and an evidence of a small spirit, 
 but it is infinitely more pleasure to lay on the broad of 
 your back in a berth, and hear two or thi-ee dozen men 
 who have been " left " swear for an hour or so, and then 
 have to lay out on the open deck, than it is to do the 
 swearing and lay on the deck yourself. Oh ! how much 
 sweeter is the sleep, how much softer the bed, how re- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 265 
 
 freshing the repose, with two or three growling around 
 for some place to lay their wearj?- heads, and yourself 
 ensconced snugly in the "last berth to be had." How 
 much more pleasure is it, though, to have this satisfaction 
 when a full-blooded Londoner has been "squeezed out,'' 
 you know; "it's perfectly scandalous, you know;'' 
 " ought to be reported to the Times, you know." We 
 never have before nor since felt in any way under such 
 deep and lasting obligations to anyone, as we have 
 done towards that " Tourist Conductor." He was 
 taking a regular Saturday night excursion to Paris, 
 to spend the Sunday in that " City of all the World," 
 and in his party alone were three hundred persons, 
 and we presume there were as many as three times 
 that number on the train not in the excursionist 
 group, and but for our singular good luck, we should 
 have had a very slim chance of sleeping comfortably 
 on a bed for that night. 
 
 The people swarmed into the boats as flies would 
 to New Orleans molasses spread on the Colonel's head, 
 and found the Doctor occupying two berths, and the 
 rest all gone, then did n't the Yankees catch some dash 
 blessings; but when our master-stroke had been learned, 
 a fearful outburst of applause went up from those two 
 boats. It got noised abroad, and rumor was current 
 that Disraeli and Bismarck and Gortschakoff and Schou- 
 valofT and Wm. M. Evarts, were aboard ; and unaware 
 of the distinction we were thus receiving. We went look- 
 ing for some of these celebrated personages, when we 
 
266 Crusade to Europe 
 
 found the whole crowd following us, and of course, 
 clapped our hands on our pocket-book and watch at 
 once. The President of the railway and one or two 
 owners of the boats were on board, and requested an 
 interview, which we condescendingly granted, an offer 
 of a few hundred thousand a year was offered, but 
 we begged leave to remind them that an editor's chair 
 was vacant, thousands and thousands of constituents 
 in subscribers were awaiting our return, and the enor- 
 mously lucrative position of editor was not to be 
 bribed or incautiously led away by the offer of a few 
 paltry hundred thousands offered by some petty English 
 lords. We have no recollection of ever having seen 
 such a crush and scrambling and jamming as on that 
 occasion. It was all " big I and little you," and in 
 that particular instance " might was right and did 
 prevail." Soon after the boat left the pier, we found 
 it very dark, and a heavy fog coming down, which 
 made it exceedingly unpleasant, aside from the uncom- 
 fortable crowding of the decks, so we retired to our 
 berths, and soon were fast asleep, not knowing, how- 
 ever, on closing our eyes, at what hour, as we crossed 
 that dreaded channel, we would be called upon to- 
 go up on deck and take an astronomical view, or 
 look upon the brilliant phosphorescence ; but we didn't 
 require to, fortunately, and so slept soundly on, dream- 
 ing of dear ones at home. About 6 A. M., we awoke 
 , I'efreshed, and looked around first for our care — for 
 such the Doctor had now become ; for at any of our ban- 
 quets where a Commandery member did not eat, the 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 267 
 
 Doctor, as the Eminent Commander, had to do it for 
 him, consequently, " Carlisle," from his legitimate in- 
 crease in weight, had to manage now for the Doctor. 
 Well, we looked around and could n't see the Doctor; 
 we arose and made for the deck, and after threading 
 our way among .people spread out as though to dry, 
 and tin pans and pails, and tubs, and so on, we came 
 across our old friend, actually sitting on a camp-stool. 
 There he sat, poor fellow, pale and emaciated, and an 
 explanation is hardly necessary, we think ; he had been 
 up during the night, taking an astronomical observa- 
 tion, gazed upon the phosphorescence, and what else 
 no man save himself knows. 
 
 Soon we were landed at Dieppe, and they run 
 their trains on the " accommodation " plan from Dieppe 
 to Paris. We were informed a train would leave at 
 1:45 ; so, after partaking of our first French break- 
 fast, and paying the woman two sous for the privilege 
 of washing our hands, we adjourned, to find written 
 on the blackboard, " Train will leave at 11:45." Rather 
 annoyed at this delay, we took a stroll the little and 
 uncleanly town of Dieppe, on that beautiful Sunday 
 morning. 
 
 All our conversations were conducted somewhat on 
 the pantomime order, as our foreign and French brethren 
 carried on a marvelous conversation with their hands, 
 feet, shoulders and heads, while we as intelligently kept 
 up any interesting conversation in which we were 
 engaged by saying continuously and simply, " Oui," 
 " Oui," " Oui," and yawning rather broadly ; only this 
 and nothing more. 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 The stores were all open. In front of the " green- 
 grocer's " stood the baskets of cabbage, lettuce, spinach, 
 &c., while the enterprising dry-goods merchant "flung 
 to the breeze '' his display of calicoes, flannels, pant 
 stuffs, &c., across the hooks in front of his door as 
 busily as we good people of Allegheny would do on our 
 Saturday or Monday ; while, passing the shops, were the 
 more religious, prayer-books in hand, wending their 
 peaceful way to their places of worship, returning from 
 which they would stop in and make their purchase of a 
 " couple of yards of five-cent calico " or a spool of " 0. 
 N". T." cotton, as do our good folkS during the week. 
 At 11:45, however, we took train for Paris, and enjoyed 
 a delightful ride through that beautiful country, not- 
 withstanding the intense heat of the day. 
 
 Reaching the " City of the World " about 3:30, on 
 alighting from the cars we were immediately taken by 
 the hand by our old friend and Sir Knight of Allegheny 
 Comniandery, William A. May, Esq., who conducted us 
 to a carriage in waiting for us, and thence to our hotel, 
 where two choice rooms had been secured for us. A 
 wash, and we were off to one of the many handsome 
 stores open, to purchase a chapeau ; our genial old 
 friend, Amsden, having run short a hat, had captured 
 ours into his trunk, either for his own wear or for the 
 benefit of a son he had left at home. Investing a 
 Napoleon, we were soon taking a stroll along those mag- 
 nificent boulevards ; but owing to the lateness of the 
 hour in arriving, we returned for dinner, preparatory to 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 269 
 
 seeing this wonderful city by gaslight on a very lovely 
 Sabbath evening. Taking a cab, we drive to the Palais 
 Royal, the former residence of Napoleon I., thence to 
 the Tuileries, the Louvre, the Tuileries Gardens, and 
 then out the Champs Ely sees — truly a wonderful sight, 
 thousands of cabs upon this beautiful drive, with their 
 little lamps burning on either side — and on looking up 
 towards the Arc de Triomphe it resembles one vast 
 torchlight procession, while on either side the grand 
 cafes, with their millions of variegated lights, and beau- 
 tiful strains coming Irom elegant bands of music, gives 
 all the appearance of fairy-land. If we did not attempt 
 a description of places of interest visited heretofore, 
 certainly we cannot have space in this work to enter into 
 one of all grandeur^ elegance and magnificence of this 
 most beautiful city of cities, further than a hasty and 
 casual glance. As we looked upon all the art — the out- 
 come of millions upon millions expended to make Paris 
 the most attractive city of the world — we could scarcely 
 realize that our most earnest anticipations had been 
 fully realized as we drove through its broad, spacious 
 and magnificent boulevards. Months would be requisite 
 to see and know Paris with all its beauties and attrac- 
 tions, and we regret exceedingly to confess our time lim- 
 ited us to but about one week ; but to show during that 
 period our time was profitably spent, we hastily review 
 some of the points of interest coming under our 
 observation. 
 
270 Crusade to Europe 
 
 First, securing a fincre at tlie rate of two francs or 
 forty cents an hour, we drive over some of tlie " Great 
 Boulevards," wliich were formed, as many of our readers 
 may Ivnow, by filling up the moats around the fortifica- 
 tions of Paris in 1610, during the reign of Louis XI Y., 
 and on the removal of these fortifications, were laid 
 these magnificent wide streets or boulevards. We stop 
 at the Place de la Bastille^ where stood a castle and 
 stronghold erected by Kings Charles Y. and YI., and 
 through the Boulevard des Italiens to the Bourse or 
 Exchange, a very handsome building surrounded by a 
 series of sixty-four Corinthian columns, and being an 
 imitation of the Temple of Yespasian, in the forum at 
 Rome. 
 
 At the corners stand four allegorical statues — Com- 
 merce, Commercial Equity, Industry and Agriculture. 
 The hall of the Bourse is opened at twelve o'clock, and is 
 soon crowded with eager men seeking to make a stroke 
 of money, while in front of the building are numberless 
 carriages awaiting the return of their owners, and from 
 the hour of opening until three o'clock, the hour of 
 closing, it is a scene of wild excitement which would 
 make our lively Oil Exchange of Oil City a place of 
 Quaker meeting in comparison. The building cost 
 8,149,000 francs. 
 
 Then we go to the Opera House, the most magnifi- 
 cent edifice of the kind in the world, erected at an 
 estimated cost of 6,000,000 francs, but when finished 
 cost just four times that amount. It covers nearly three 
 
OF Al.l.KGHKNY COMMANDER V. 27 I 
 
 acres of ground, was designed by Grarnier, from com- 
 petitive plans from the most eminent arcliitects of 
 Prance. Tlie government contributes 800,000 francs 
 per annum towards its support. Nothing can equal, 
 certainly' not surpass its elegance, grandeur and mag- 
 nificence, being built from green and red granite from 
 Sweden and Scotland, yellow and white marbles from 
 Italy, red porphyry from Finland, •' brocatello" from 
 Spain, and other marbles from various parts of France. 
 The finest works of art adorn it in statuary, paint- 
 ings, &c., on every hand, such as statues of music, 
 Ij'ric poetry, idyllic poetry, declamation, song, lyric 
 drama, dance, with medallion busts of Bach, Pergolese, 
 Haydn, Cimarosa, Mozart, Beethoven, Spontini, Auber^ 
 Rossini, Meyerbeer, and Halevy. The steps are of 
 white marble and the hand-rail formed of Algerian 
 Onyx. The magnificent and curiously shaped chandelier 
 contains three hundred and forty burners, and as seen 
 from below presents the appearance of a crown of 
 pearls. The stage is one hundred and ninety-six feet in 
 height, one hundred and seventy-eight feet in width, 
 and seventy-four feet in depth. At the back of the 
 stage is the Ball Room, the end of which is formed 
 by a mirror twenty-three feet in width and thirty-three 
 feet in height, the largest ever made. 
 
 In the Grand Foyer ^ in large medallions above the 
 door are groups of children carrying musical instruments, 
 which are intended as emblems of the music of different 
 nations. The cymbals refer to the Persians, the lyre 
 
272 Crusade to Europe 
 
 and double flute to the Greeks, the horn, shell and tuba 
 to the Romans, the organ to the Germans, the castanets 
 and guitar to the Spaniards, the drum and cornet to the 
 French, the harp to the English, the tambourine and 
 mandoline to the Italians, the psaltery, sistrum and 
 tintinnabulum to the Egyptians, and the triangle and 
 darabuka to the barbarian races. Every nook and 
 corner has its statue or emblem, representing some 
 person or object alluding to or contributing to the cause 
 of the erection of this truly magnificent structure. The 
 building is fire-proof, iron used entirely in place of any 
 timber, but it narrowly escaped desti'uction in 1811, 
 when it was used by the communists as a magazine for 
 gunpowder and other munitions of war. 
 
 The Column Vendome is an imitation of Trajan's col- 
 umn at Rome, one hundred and fortj'-two feet in height, 
 and thirteen feet in diameter. The total weight of bronze 
 employed in its construction is 1,800,000 pounds, sup- 
 plied by twelve hundred cannons taken during a cam- 
 paign of three months. It was erected by order of 
 Napoleon I., in 1806, to commemorate his victories over 
 the Russians and Austrians in 1805. The statue of Na- 
 poleon, which occupied the summit, was melted down by 
 the Royalists in 1814, and the metal employed in casting 
 the equestrian statue of Henri IV., on the Pont Neuf. 
 Subsequently, in 1831, Louis Phillippe caused a new 
 statue to be cast of the metal of guns captured at 
 Algiers and to be placed on the summit. This was 
 again removed in 1863, and replaced by a statue of the 
 
)F Al.I.KGHKNY CoMMANDERY. 273 
 
 emperor in Roman costume, executed by Dumont. May 
 16tli, 1811, the Commune pulled down the column, to 
 the outer gallery of which the tri-colored flag of France 
 was attached, in order to mark its downfall and the 
 triumph of the insurrectionary red colors. Nothing 
 was left standing but the pedestal, a master-piece of 
 composition, twent3^-one feet in height, and twenty in 
 breadth. But the fragments of the column were 
 fortunately saved, and employed in the reconstruction 
 of the magnificent monument. 
 
 The Madeleine or Church of St. Mary Magdalene is 
 our next object, and here we saw the congregation at 
 communion, and without any disrespect intended to any 
 one, we saw the pastor of the flock literally carry out 
 the spii'itual command, " Drink ye all of it," as he filled 
 the goblet to participate in the Holy Communion, and he 
 did drink all of it, if the bottom side of the goblet 
 turned up while to his lips is any indication. 
 
 This splendid edifice was commenced in the reign of 
 Louis XV. The Revolution fourid the building incom- 
 pleted, and the works were suspended. It was restored 
 to the uses of religion during the Restoration, and was 
 completed in 1842. The carvings over the entrance in 
 front are from the chisel of Lemaire, and represent the 
 Last Judgment. The exterior of the edifice, with its 
 fifty -two columns and its square form, rather resembles 
 a Greek temple than a Catholic church. The niches in 
 the walls contain statues of saints especially revered in 
 France, all by modern sculptors. The church is 
 
274 Crusade to Europe 
 
 approached by a flight of twenty-eight steps, occupying 
 the entire breadtli of the edifice. Tlie bronze doors are 
 adorned with illustrations of the ten commandments, 
 designed by Triqueti, and deserve especial notice. The 
 interior is gorgeously gilded and ornamented with paint- 
 ings by the most celebrated contemporary artists. Notice 
 should be taken of the grand altar, the two handsome 
 vases for holy water, the fonts, and the groups by Rude 
 and Pradier. The light is unfortunately insufficient to 
 display these fine groups to advantage. When the 
 principal door and gate are closed, access may be 
 obtained by the entrances on the eastern and western 
 sides of the church. 
 
 In May, IStl, the insurgents had constructed one of 
 their most formidable barricades across the Rue Royale, 
 opposite to, and within a short distance of the Madeleine. 
 The appalling scene enacted here on May 22d and 23d, 
 baffles description. The houses in the Rue Royale which 
 escaped destruction by fire were literall}'' riddled with 
 shells and bullets, but the church, owing to its massive 
 construction, suffered comparatively little. This fearful 
 battle ended in the Versailles army driving the Com- 
 munists, after much loss on both sides, from their barri- 
 cade. Three hundred of the insurgents, closely pursued 
 by their enemies, sought refuge in the sacred edifice; 
 the troops soon forced an entrance, and suipfered not one 
 of their victims to escape alive. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandkry. 275 
 
 The Palais Royal^ was erected in 1629 by Cardinal 
 Richelieu, and originally was named by that personage 
 the Palais Cardinal. It was occupied after his death 
 by Anne of Austria, the widow of Louis XIII., with her 
 two sons, Louis XIV. and Philip of Orleans. The 
 garden is in the centre of the building, and is in a 
 parallelogram form ; a fountain stands in the middle, 
 and there is a double row of trees round it. The cov- 
 ered promenade is very convenient during rainy weather, 
 being in the shape of an arcade, all arched and covered 
 over. A military band usually plays between five and 
 six o'clock on fine evenings, in the middle of the garden. 
 On May 22d, 1871, the Communists set the Palais 
 Royal on fire, and the entire south wing, including most 
 of the apartments in the Gour d^ffonneur, with the ex- 
 ception of the south-western corner, became a prey to 
 the flames, and was almost entirely destroyed. Had the 
 galleries, with their attractive shops, been destroyed, 
 the loss would have been incalculable. 
 
 The Palace has since been restored, the apartments 
 being used now by the Conseil d'Elat, and are not 
 shown to the public. 
 
 Now we come to Paris' pride and most important 
 public building, the Louvre, and said to derive its name 
 from an ancient hunting chateau called the Louverie. 
 
 The Palace was originally destined for the reception 
 of foreign, monarchs during their sojourn in the French 
 capital. In 1528, Francis I. pulled down the old building 
 
276 Crusade to Europe 
 
 in order to replace it by a new edifice, which was 
 finished in the reign of his son Henry II., the sculptures 
 which adorned it being the work of the celebrated Jean 
 Goujon. 
 
 The older part of the Louvre has been the scene of 
 many historical events. On August 19th, 15'72, the mar- 
 riage of the Princess Margaret of Valois with Henri 
 IV., was solemnized here, most of the Huguenots being 
 present on that occasion. Five days later, on the 
 twenty-fourth of August, the signal was given for the 
 massacre of the Huguenots. 
 
 A part of the modern structure was erected by the 
 order of Louis XIV.; and it was during the life of this 
 monarch that the superb eastern facade facing the 
 church of St. Germain I'Auxerrois was executed after 
 the designs of Claude Perrault. This masterpiece of 
 architecture yields in nothing to the most beautiful 
 productions of antique art. 
 
 The building was neglected after the death of Louis 
 XIV. In 1805, Napoleon I. caused the whole of the 
 Louvre buildings to be thoroughly restored, with a con- 
 necting gallery between the Tuileries and the Louvre. 
 
 That side of the Louvre whicli faces the river is 
 decorated with some most admirable carvings, and the 
 pavilions of Rohan and Lesdiguieres are marvellous 
 instances of the power of the sculptor's chisel, while the 
 innumerable monumental statues which decorate the 
 building on every side are truly worth}^ of the place they 
 occupy. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 277 
 
 On the night of the 23d of May, 18T1, the insurgents 
 of the Commune entered the Louvre and set fire to the 
 premises. Although the most precious chefs d^oeuvre 
 had been sent to Brest for safety before the siege of 
 1810, a valuable collection, comprising upwards of 90,000 
 volumes and a number of rare and interesting MSS. 
 were entirely destroyed by the flames. It would take 
 volume after volume to enumerate and describe the 
 contents of the Louvre, which contains collections from 
 the brushes and chisels of renowned artists dating back 
 to the sixteenth century, and a person could linger and 
 loiter about the spacious passages and galleries of the 
 Louvre for weeks and never tire of its wonderful arts 
 and beauties. 
 
 The Tuileries on the opposite side of the vast 
 square between the Louvre and the Tuileries dates from 
 the reign of Henri IL in 1589. 
 
 JSTo edifice in Paris is so rich in historical associa- 
 tions as the Tuileries, and none, with the single 
 exception of the Hotel de Ville, has ever been overtaken 
 by so terrible a fate. On August 10th, 1192, after a 
 fierce contest, the palace was taken by ' storm by an 
 infuriated populace, and its defenders, consisting of a 
 number of French nobles, one thousand Swiss guards 
 and twenty-six officers, one hundred domestics of the 
 palace, and two hundred national guards, mercilessly 
 butchered. On July 29th, 1830, the Tuileries was again 
 captured, and the furniture plundered or destroyed. 
 But Louis Phillippe reinstated it in great splendor, and 
 
278 Crusade to Europe 
 
 was in it when the Revolution of 1848 took place. 
 Although there were abundance of troops to defend the 
 palace, he preferred leaving it, and made his escape 
 through the gardens. The capture of the palace was 
 succeeded by the most frightful scenes of devastation. 
 The royal carriages and furniture were burned in the 
 courtyard, and the throne was carried to the Place de la 
 Bastille and burnt also. 
 
 On May 20th, 1871, the Communists, aware of their 
 desperate position and impending destruction, deter- 
 mined at one of their secret meetings to wreak their 
 revenge on the ill-fated city by setting all the principal 
 public buildings on fire. The prelude to the appalling^ 
 scene which ensued consisted in placing combustibles 
 soaked with petroleum, and barrels of gunpowder in the 
 buildings doomed to destruction. The Tuileries was one 
 of the first edifices subjected to this fearfully compre- 
 hensive and diabolical scheme. It was set on fire in a 
 number of different places on the 22d May, the day 
 after the Yersailles troops had obtained an entrance into- 
 the city, but before they had gained possession of the 
 palace. The confiagration soon assumed the most terri- 
 ble dimensions, and all attempts to extinguish it were 
 entirely fruitless. The whole of the western side of the 
 palace facing the Jardin des Tuileries, and the pavilion 
 on the north side next to the Rue de Rivoli,. were 
 reduced to a gigantic heap of sm,ou.ldering ruins, after- 
 burnino; three davs and nights. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 279 
 
 In the square stands the Arc De Triomphe du Car- 
 oussel, erected by order of ISTapoleon I. to commemorate 
 his victories qf 1805 and 1806. It is fortj^-eight feet in 
 height, sixty-three and a half in width, and twenty-one 
 feet in thickness, flanked by Corinthian columns of red 
 marble and with bases and capitals in bronze. On the 
 marble entablature above tlie columns, in front and at 
 the back, are placed marble statues representing the 
 soldiers of the Empire, in the uniforms of their different 
 corps; and on the four faces are marble reliefs, repre- 
 senting battles, &c., of the Imperial period. The arch 
 was originally surmounted by the four bronze horses 
 from the Basilica of St. Mark, at Venice ; these, how- 
 ever, were restored to Venice in 1814, and have been 
 replaced by a female figure in a chariot, designed to 
 represent the Restoration. 
 
 The Place de la Concorde is the most beautiful place 
 in the city, if not in the world. On the spot now 
 occupied by the Obelisk, the guillotine was erected tor 
 the execution of Louis XVI. on January 21st, lt93. 
 After a brief removal to the Place du Carrousel, the 
 guillotine was again raised here, and more than 2,800 
 individuals were sacrificed to the bloodthirsty savages of 
 nQS. Among those who terminated their career upon 
 this awful spot were Charlotte Gorday, the courageous 
 patriot ; Brissot, chief of the Girondins ; Marie Antoi- 
 nette, the beautiful queen ; Philippe Egalite, Duke 
 d'Orleans ; Madame Roland, whose dying words were: 
 " Oh, Liberty ! what crimes are committed in th}^ name!" 
 Hebert ; Danton ; Camille Desmonlins ; Chaumette ; 
 Madame Elisabeth, sister of Louis XVI. ; Robespierre ; 
 St. Just; and hundreds of the French nobilit}-. 
 
28o Crusade to Europe 
 
 The Obelisk now in the Place de la Concorde orna- 
 mented the palace of the kings of Eg^^pt, at Thebes, 
 about 1,500 years before the Christian era, and was a 
 gift of Mehemet Ali, Pacha of Egypt, to the French gov- 
 ernment, at the same time that he gave a similar one to 
 the English (the Cleopatra Needle.) The expenses en- 
 tailed by the transport to Paris and elevation of the 
 obelisk in its present position amounted to two millions 
 of francs, and as the obelisk is 500,000 lbs. in w^eight, 
 the stone of which it consists has cost four francs per 
 pound ! The pedestal on which it stands is a single 
 block of grey granite from the quarries of Laber, in Brit- 
 tany, weighing 240,000 lbs. Upon the northern side of 
 this pedestal is represented the apparatus emploj'ed in 
 the removal and embarkation of the beautiful Egyptian 
 relic, and on the southern side that used in raising it iu 
 position. The obelisk itself is a magnificent monolith, a 
 monument of solid, reddish granite, and is inscribed with 
 three rows of deep, sharply cut, and well-preserved hier- 
 oglyphics on each side. On either side of this prodigi- 
 ous stone is a fountain executed in the best taste. 
 
 The eight statues placed round the Place de la Con- 
 corde represent the eight principal towns of France — 
 Lyons, Marseilles, Bordeaux, Nantes, Rouen, Brest, Lille 
 and Strasburg, the latter now, however, belonging to 
 their beloved neighbors the Germans. 
 
 The Champs Elyseea is a magnificent avenue, one of 
 the most fashionable promenades of Paris, and flanked 
 by the most handsome buildings, and presents a most 
 
OF Allegheny Commandeky. 281 
 
 striking- and animated appearance say from three to six 
 o'clock, when elegant equipages and noble horses, with 
 their elegantly attired and fashionable occupants and 
 riders are on their way to and from the Bois de Bologne. 
 
 On this avenue are the Palais de VElysee which has 
 been the residence of Madame de Pompadour, a 
 government printing office, ball rooms, gaming tables, 
 ■occupied b}^ Murat, Napoleon 1., Louis Bonaparte, Em- 
 peror Alexander I., of Russia, and so on, and was the 
 residence of President McMahon ; also the Palais de 
 P Industrie, and proceeding out to the end of the Champs 
 Elysees, we come to the Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile, 
 the most imposing structure of the kind in existence. 
 It stands on a slight eminence and is visible from almost 
 any part of the city. From this magnificent and tri- 
 umphal arch diverge twelve different avenues, in star 
 shape. It is a handsome arch, costing ten millions of 
 francs, is one hundred and sixty feet in height, one hun- 
 dred and forty-six in width and seventy-two feet in 
 depth, and was one of four triumphal arches Napoleon I. 
 determined to erect in commemoration of his victories, 
 but he accomplished but two. We would fail to even 
 attempt a description of its wonderful traceries, the hand 
 of the chisel in its carvings of those unusually handsome 
 representations of important points in the first Napo- 
 leon's career. 
 
 The famous Bois de Bologne, formerly a forest 
 abounding in game, the resort of duelists, persons 
 inclined to suicide, garroters and midnight marauders, 
 is now a beautiful park containing twenty-two hundred 
 and flftv acres. 
 
282 Crusade to Europe 
 
 The Hotel de Ville, or town hall of Paris, is in utter 
 ruin, having been burned to the ground by the blood- 
 thirsty Communists on May 24th, 18tl, including a 
 librar}^ of over 100,000 volumes, and an incalculable loss 
 in the destruction of a great many very important public 
 documents. We are informed that the ball and reception 
 rooms on the first floor of this once interesting building 
 were so gorgeously and magnificently fitted up as to 
 eclipse entirel}'^ the imperial palaces. 
 
 We visit famous Notre Davie Gothedral, where a very 
 plain and fluent English speaker gives us briskly and 
 fully this old church's history. It was founded in 1163- 
 and consecrated in 1182. It is one hundred and thirty- 
 nine 3^ards long and fift3--two and a half j^ards broad. 
 The organ in the church was built in 1T50 and enlarged 
 in 1868, and has fifty -two hundred and forty-six pipes and 
 eighty-six stops. The choir stalls and the reliefs in 
 wood represent scenes from the history of Christ and the 
 Virgin, and are marvels of wood carving. Here are 
 shown mementos ot former archbishops of Paris with 
 monuments to their memories ; among others the good 
 archbishop Darbo}', who, it will be remembered, in 1871,. 
 was confined in the Prison de la Roquette, and being 
 entirely innocent and unofiending, with five others were 
 taken to a place in front of the infirmary of the prison,, 
 and after being subjected to gross insults from the Na- ' 
 tional guards were cruelly and brutally murdered b}- the 
 red-handed assassins in possession of the city at the time.- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 283 
 
 Then the Morgue, where are exposed from five to 
 six hundred persons annually, who have either been 
 drowned, or drowned themselves, and when found, are 
 taken to this place, laid upon marble slabs, and their 
 clothing hung above them, and their bodies kept cool 
 by a constant flow of water. 
 
 The Palais du Luxembourg was founded in 1612, 
 and continued to be a royal residence down to the time 
 of the Revolution. Tlie Pantheon resembles a heathen 
 temple much more than a chui'ch, its form being a 
 Greek cross, surmounted by a dome two hundred and 
 seventy-two feet high. The Hotel des Blonnaies, or the 
 Parisian Mint, is another exceedingly fine building ; on 
 the ground floor are five entrance arcades, above which, 
 on the first and second floors, is a handsome colonnade 
 of six Ionic columns. Above the cornice are placed 
 statues of Peace, Plenty, Commerce, Power, Wisdom 
 and Law. The numerous glass cases in the principal 
 saloon contains an interesting collection of French coins, 
 arranged chronologically from the earliest times down 
 to the present day, and a collection of foreign coins, 
 including a Chinese coin of the year ITOO, B. C. The 
 machines turn out seventy pieces of money per minute, 
 while the whole of them in operation at once are capable 
 of yielding two millions of francs per day. 
 
 As we entered the Hotel des Invalides we could 
 hardly lead ourselves to believe that all our anticipations 
 had actually been realized ; we had read over and over 
 again the life and history of the great Napoleon, the 
 
284 Crusade to Europe 
 
 little Corporal, and we had sighed often and often that 
 we might look upon the tomb which contains the mortal 
 dust of the greatest warrior the world has ever seen. 
 This building was founded in 1610, by Louis- XIV., and 
 was completed in IGTS. Soldiers disabled by wounds, 
 and those who have served over thirty years are ad- 
 mitted to the Invalides. The Musee d'Artillerie in the 
 the building contains over four thousand specimens of 
 weapons of all kinds. The magnificent tomb of Na- 
 poleon I. is situated beneath the dome in an open 
 circular crypt, and on the mosaic pavement, which 
 represents a wreath of laurels, rises the splendid sar- 
 cophagus, thirteen feet long, six and a half wide and 
 fourteen and a half in height, and consists of a single 
 huge block of red sandstone, weighing upwards of sixty- 
 seven tons, brought from Finland, and cost one hundred 
 and forty thousand francs. And so we might go on, 
 never tiring of the beauties of magnificent, worldly 
 Paris, with its Palais Pompeien, Jardin d'Acclimata- 
 tion, Russian Church, Tour St. Jacques, Churches of 
 Ste Gervais and St. Eustache, Bibliotheque Nationale, 
 Conservatoire des Arts, Palais de Justice, Saint Cha- 
 pelle, Musee de Luxembourg, Musee de Cluny, Jardin 
 des Plantes, St. Sulpice, Palais des Beaux Arts, its 
 cemeteries, its parks, its fountains, its broad and 
 smooth avenues, but we could not do it the justice it 
 deserves ; we can only say, that we employed every 
 moment of our time to the very best advantage possible, 
 spending, in addition to the places previously mentioned, 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 two days in the Paris Exposition, wliich in fine fabrics 
 and fine arts excelled our own '76 Centennial, in our 
 opinion, but in all the other departments we exceeded 
 the French display. 
 
 Taking a train we run out to Versailles, the seat of 
 government of France, fourteen miles from the city of 
 Paris, and its site is certainly anything but favorable. 
 The Palace and Park cost the treasury of Louis XIV. 
 the enormous sum of one thousand million francs. It is 
 stated no fewer than thirty-six thousand men and six 
 thousand horses were employed at one time in forming 
 the terraces of the gardens and improving the parks. 
 
 During tlie time of the unfortunate Louis XVL, the 
 Palace of Versailles was sacked by a Parisian mob,^ 
 largely made up of women, and ever since that time it 
 has been uninhabited. From the 1 9th of September, 1870,, 
 to March 6th, 1871, the palace was the headquarters of 
 the King of Prussia, and a great portion of the edifice 
 was used as a military hospital, the pictures having 
 been carefully covered to protect them from injury. A 
 most impressive ceremony in the history of Versailles 
 took place there on January 18th, 1871, when the Prus- 
 sian monarch, with the unanimous consent of the Ger- 
 man States was saluted as the Emperor of United Ger- 
 many. 
 
 The Palace is a very plain looking building, dating^ 
 from the time of Louis XIII. On the first floor are 
 the apartments of Louis XIV. The Gallerie de Louis 
 
286 Crusade to KuRorE 
 
 XIV. is a magnificent hall eighty yards in length and 
 forty-one feet in height, and commands a beautiful view 
 of the gardens. In this room King William was pro- 
 claimed Emperor of Germany. In this are some most 
 superb paintings by some of the most renowned artists. 
 
 The gardens of Versailles are the finest perhaps the 
 world has ever seen, and are nearly in the same condi- 
 tion as when originallj'^ laid out by Le Notre, the most 
 famous landscape gardener of his day. They are 
 adorned with numerous statues and vases, and orna- 
 Tnental sheets of water. The playing of the famous 
 fountains in these gardens, which we had the pleasure 
 to see, always attracts large crowds of spectators, which 
 may be seen only on the first Sunday of each month 
 from May to October, and costs eight to ten thousand 
 francs to exhibit on every occasion, or about two thous- 
 and dollars every time tlie}^ play, and this sight alone is 
 almost worth the trouble and expense of crossing the 
 Atlantic to witness. 
 
 Having completed our sight-seeing in Paris, we can 
 not but admire the late Emperor ISTapoleon III., who 
 did so much, expended so much, and manifested such 
 an interest in constantly adding to the beauties of this 
 metropolis ; whatever may have been his faults, they 
 should be covered up and hidden from sight, only 
 thinking of the good he has done, in aiding by every 
 means within his power, to please the eye of the beau- 
 tiful ; and seeing all this vast wealth expended in 
 magnificent buildings, in fine works of art, in elegant 
 
OF Allegheny Commanuery. ■ 287 
 
 boulevards and avenues, bow an^^ mob, no matter bow 
 low tbeir birtb, tbeir origin, tbeir surroundings, even 
 tbougli tbe}^ be tliorougbly tutored in tbe scliool of 
 crime, could become so debased in every tbing buman, 
 as to commit tbe bloody work, cruel butcbery, and bigb- 
 banded villainies as perpetrated by tbe Communists in 
 1871, is only sometbiug at wbicb we can marvel. 
 
 Witli deep and mucb regret we returned to our botel, 
 packed our traps, paid our bills, bade our friend William 
 A. May, Esq., good-bye ; and, we may sa}-, to tbat gentle- 
 man we are mucb indebted for courtesies and kindness 
 wbile in Paris, he liaving been tbere for almost a year in 
 tbe interest ot tbe Westingbouse Air Brake Company, of 
 Pittsburgh, and perfectly familiar with the cit}', what 
 would necessarily have been a visit of some annoyance, 
 owing to our lack of knowledge of tbe French vernacu- 
 lar, was made through that gentleman one of pleasure 
 and of interest. 
 
 After a pleasant ride, on a beautiful da}', of eleven 
 hours, the Doctor, and " Carlisle " were to be found in 
 the city of Cologne, in good old Faderland, and in our 
 rooms facing the beautiful Kliine. 
 
 Here we bad the pleasure of meeting dear friends, Mr. 
 William Semple, of Allegheny City, who was on his 
 semi-annual trip to Europe, seeking a few weeks' recrea- 
 tion and recuperation, and accompanied by John B. 
 Main, Esq., of Glasgow, Scotland, who was hale, hearty, 
 and stout, and very anxiously looking for a " rest," 
 
288 Crusade to Europe 
 
 otherwise, as customary with nearly all in Britain, 
 accustomed to short distance traveling, and not exactly 
 up to the "pick-up-your-satcheland-run " business, Mr. 
 Main was slightly fatigued, and we are prone to think 
 would quite as soon have remained a day or so " resting" 
 at Cologne. 
 
 Cologne is the largest town in the Rhenish Province 
 of Prussia, is one of the most important commercial 
 towns in Germany, has about 136,000 inhabitants, includ- 
 ing a garrison of seven thousand men. Its age anti-dates 
 Roman times, for it is known that in the year A. D. 50, 
 Agrippina, daughter of Germanicus and mother of Nero, 
 founded a colony of Roman veterans on the site of 
 Cologne, and was known as Colonia Agrippinensis. 
 
 The Cathedral in Cologne is probably the most 
 magnificent Gothic edifice in the world, it was com- 
 menced in 1244, and they are still completing it, and is 
 expected to be finished in about two years from this 
 date. It covers 66,800 square feet of room, is sur- 
 mounted by a spire now three hundred feet in height, to 
 which is to be added yet two hundred and thirty-two 
 feet, making it five hundred and thirty-two feet in all, 
 and eighteen feet higher than the highest pyramid of 
 Egypt ; its roof has some five thousand spires or 
 pinnacles, the nave is one hundred and sixty feet from 
 floor to ceiling, and this vast church will seat comforta- 
 bly 42,500 persons. It contains the remains of many 
 illustrious dead, and also very fine tombs, some of 
 which were damaged by the French soldiers in 1803-t. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 289 
 
 The largest of the bells in the tower is called the 
 Kaiser glocke, which was cast in 1814 with the metal of 
 French guns, and weighs twenty-five tons. Fine stained- 
 glass windows adorn this magnificent building, some of 
 which represent John the Baptist, Nativity, Lord's 
 Supper, Death of Christ, Descent of the Holy Ghost, 
 Stoning of St. 'Stephen, and one commemorating the 
 elevation of Archbishop Geissel, of Cologne, to the rank 
 of Cardinal. The walls behind the choir stalls are 
 covered with tapestry worked by the ladies of Cologne, 
 illustrative of the Nicene creed and the seven sacra- 
 «nents. There are several other very fine churches in 
 Cologne, but of course the Cathedral is the one of main 
 interest. 
 
 It is a singular sight early in the morning to see the 
 strong, hearty, red-faced, jolly Grerman women come 
 marching along — dear knows how far they have walked — 
 carrying heavy baskets of marketing upon their heads, 
 and as they walk rapidly on, knitting a stocking at the 
 same time, their cheeks red, and bearing a glow such 
 as is seldom seen in America. 
 
 At 8:45 A. M. on a bright sunny morning we, mean- 
 ing Mr. William Semple, John B. Main, the Doctor and 
 " Carlisle," stepped aboard the fine steamer " Kaiser and 
 Koenig Wilhelm," on the famed river Rhine, and soon 
 were on our way up this beautiful stream, the pride — and 
 well may it be — of the grand and good old German 
 nation. A fine list of passengers were aboard, the day 
 was all that could be desired, and we anticipated a day 
 of rich treat and rare pleasure. 
 
290 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Soon after leaving Cologne, we come in sight, on our 
 left, of the Chateau Bensberg, a Prussian militarj'^ school, 
 at the foot of which building stands a monument to the 
 memory of two thousand Austrian soldiers who fell at 
 Jemappes in 1*194, and erected by the Emperor of Aus- 
 tria in 1854. On the right a little fvirther up is the sup- 
 pressed Benedictine Abbey of Siegburg. Passing on up 
 we came to Bonn^ frequently mentioned by Tacitus, and 
 was one of the first Roman fortresses on the Rhine, and 
 was probably founded by Drusus ; and at Bonn we see 
 some of the most handsome residences to be seen on the 
 Rhine, and passing this city we come to the most 
 picturesque and famous scenery on the river. We pass 
 the islands of Nonnenwerth and Grafenwerth^ on the 
 former of which stands an extensive nunnery, yery 
 ancient, being mentioned in a document of the twelfth 
 century. The nunnery was suppressed in 1802 but was 
 re-opened in 1845 as a girls' school under the auspices of 
 Franciscan nuns. 
 
 Bolandseck is the next point passed, and is one of the 
 most beautiful spots on the river, surrounded hy numer- 
 ous villas and pleasant gardens, chiefly belonging to 
 wealthy merchants from the Lower Rhine. Here, on a 
 Basaltic rock, stood Roland's Castle ; in connection with 
 this is told this tradition : " The bi-ave Knight Roland, 
 scouring the Rhine in search of adventure, found himself 
 the guest of Count Herbert, lord of the Seven Mount- 
 ains, at his castle of Drachenburg. According to 
 custom the daughter of the host, the peerless Hilda- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 291 
 
 gimde, welcomed him with the offering of bread, wine 
 and fish. Her beauty riveted the gaze of the young- 
 knight, and Hildesunde and Roland were soon affianced 
 lovers, but their happiness was brief. Roland was sum- 
 moned by Charlemagne to the crusade. Time sped on 
 and anxiously did Hildegunde await his return. But 
 sad rumors came. The brave Roland was said to have 
 fallen by the hands of the infidels, and the world no 
 longer possessing any charm for the inconsolable Hilde- 
 gunde, she took refuge in the ' kloster ' in the adjacent 
 island of ISTonnenwerth. The rumors, however, of the 
 death of her betrothed were unfounded. Although des- 
 perately wounded he recovered, and hastened to the halls 
 of Drachenburg to claim his bride ; but instead of being- 
 welcomed back by her fond smile, he found that she 
 was forever lost to him. In despair he built the castle, 
 of which one crumbling arch remains, and there lived in 
 solitude, catching -an occasional glimpse of a fair form 
 passing to and fro to her devotions in the little chapel of 
 the ' kloster.' At length he missed her, and soon the 
 tolling of the bell and a mournful procession conveyed 
 to him the heart-rending intelligence that his beloved 
 Hildegunde was now indeed removed forever. From 
 that moment Roland never spoke again ; for a short 
 time he dragged on his weary existence, but his heart 
 was broken, and one morning he was found rigid and 
 lifeless, his glassy eye still turned towards the convent 
 chapel." 
 
 At every turn in the river the scenery was becoming- 
 more and more interesting, new features and attractions 
 
292 Crusade to Europe 
 
 were continually presenting themselves, and we were 
 thoroughly intent on all the beauties now surrounding 
 us and coming to view; we were now approaching 
 Godesburg, situated at a point where the river expands, 
 and which place is a favorite summer resort, where 
 wealthy merchants of Cologne, Elberfield, and Crefeld 
 have erected a number of handsome villas, surrounded by 
 pleasant gardens; upon the deck of the fine steamer, friend 
 sat chatting with friend ; children played lively around 
 the spacious deck of the handsome steamer ; Mr. William 
 Semple and John Main were away forward at; the bow 
 of the boat, the Doctor was down looking over the 
 railing at the beautiful working engine, and " Carlisle" 
 was sitting near the stern of the boat taking notes 
 and writing home. Everybod}^ was joyous, joking and 
 laughing — everything around us enchanting, and, owing 
 to the very swift current at this point, the engines of 
 the steamer were working hard and raising steam fast — 
 when suddenly, boom ! ! a loud report, followed by 
 another, and steam shot away up into the air, the en- 
 gineers driven out with cuts and bruises! The laugh- 
 ing changed to crying, the rosiest cheeks were blanched, 
 and faces were pale ; friends running to and fro seeking 
 friends ; a mother screaming for her child she had 
 placed to sleep in the cabin below, and no means of 
 reaching it, owing to the escaping steam. " What is the 
 matter ?" came from the lips of one and all. The steam 
 rushed and roared, and the engineers could not get at 
 the throttle-valve to shut off steam, and there we were. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 293 
 
 in the middle of the Rhine, a strong current against us, 
 a very heavy head of steam on, and it still raising 
 rapidly, so much so that the magnificent boat shivered 
 all over as does a person chilled, we looking every 
 moment to see her blown into atoms ; but at last, by 
 being wrapped in wet blankets and cloths, the engineers 
 were enabled to rush in, and, shutting off steam, it was 
 found she had broken her connecting rod and blown out 
 a cylinder head, and when her engines were stopped, the 
 broken piece of the connecting rod was revolving on her 
 shaft at frightful speed. ^W this occurred in less time 
 than it takes to write it, and a feeling of relief was only 
 obtained when the four of us got off in a little boat, 
 walked inland to the railway, and took train at once 
 from the station at Godesburg for Bingen. It was quite 
 an excitement, and all things considered, was a narrow 
 and lucky enough escape. We cannot pass over the 
 remaining portion of our tour without attempting a 
 description of the wonderful beauties as nature has laid 
 them down and painted them in her mountains, valleys, 
 lakes and rivers, and we would not exchange the rapid 
 tour of these beauties for all former visits to Britain put 
 together, exclusive of this one, of course, spent among 
 our many Masonic friends. 
 
 From Godesburg to Maj^ence, of course, owing to 
 the more rapid traveling by railroad than on the boat, 
 and being on one side of the bank all the way up, and 
 on the edge of hills, our anticipations of viewing the 
 scenery of the Rhine, were from this accident to the 
 
294 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ' Kaiser Wilhelm' unrealized, further than the very pro- 
 voking and unsatisfactory view of one side. 
 
 Leaving Godesburg, we approach tlie Rhine's most 
 interesting scenery, which attracts at once the artist's 
 and tourist's eye ; on our right hand, towering away far 
 above us are high hills, bare at places — but let us look 
 to the left. Down through the ravine flows the swift 
 running Rhine, in its beautiful bed, its banks on either 
 side so rich and green ; on the far side is a lovely pic- 
 turesque country, suddenly coming up against as it 
 were a high mountain, and lill that the eye can take in, 
 down their broad sides, are the grape vines, for which 
 the Rhine country is so famous, every inch of ground 
 being utilized for that cultivation, even to banking up 
 the earth with walls, so as to maintain maybe a little 
 patch of ground ten or twelve feet in area ; then will 
 appear another mountain whose face-side slopes so 
 gracefully, and from its base to its summit will be row 
 upon row of terraces bearing the purple bunches of 
 autumn's fruit ; occasionally the grand scenery will melt 
 away and give place to some of the most lovely pic- 
 turesque scenery man's eye could wish to behold ; the 
 sun's rays pouring down so warmly upon the hills and 
 valleys makes the looker-on an admirer of the German 
 nation, makes him love those good old honest people 
 more and more ; and, we say how can they help loving 
 their beautiful river, guarding it jealously, and warm 
 with enthusiasm sing their " Wacht am Rhine.'' No 
 wonder when they heard or saw their Rhine and its 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 295 
 
 beautiful banks about to be invaded by their grasping 
 neiglibors, that the whole noble German Empire, with 
 its sterling people, handsome, manly men, particularly 
 their soldiers, rise en masse, and by their masterly 
 education, their unapproachable discipline, filled with 
 patriotism and love for what is and should be their 
 pride, drove back, repulsed, and broke down a mighty 
 and prosperous nation whom others had long feared. 
 
 The scenery here is perfectly grand ; we pass on our 
 right the summer residence of the Empress of Germany, 
 which from our train we could barely catch a glimpse, 
 and then we come to " Bingen, fair Bingen on the 
 Rhine." 
 
 Bingen is a little Hessian town of some 6,500 
 inhabitants, was known to the Romans, who erected a 
 castle here. During the thirty years war it was repeatedly 
 captured, and totally destroyed in 1689 by the French. 
 The town carries on considerable trade in wine and a 
 busy river and railway traffic. 
 
 From Bingen we proceed to Mayence, and here the 
 Doctor cruelly concluded to leave " Carlisle," and at this 
 point we parted company for a little while, for having 
 spent all of his own money, and having begged, borrowed 
 and — from us all we could advance him, he said he 
 thought he would like to meet the party once more, and 
 would therefore go and meet them at Brussels. We, 
 poor, innocent mortal, took it all in good faith, appre- 
 ciated his motives of going to shake hands with our 
 companions once more, and considered it all as coming 
 
296 Crusade to Europe 
 
 from the goodness of the Doctor's heart, that he would 
 sacrifice the beauties of Switzerland just to greet our 
 fellow travelers once more ; we wished him God speed, 
 to meet him a week or so later in London. But the 
 deep scheming of this gentleman was onlj?^ brought to 
 light since our appointment as " Notarj^ Public" by 
 Prof. Slack, Hon. J. Pred. Beilstein, the juicy beef- 
 slaj^er ; James Milliken, Esq.; James Raffertj^, Esq.; 
 Judge Major, Hon. W. C. Moreland, coming to our 
 office to have some lengthy accounts probated against 
 this dealer in " amalgam and sich," as well as letters 
 from poor Mrs. Mifflin, Mrs. Frohock, Rev. 0. H. 
 Brusie, Dr. Isaac Landis, Solomon McConihe, D. D., 
 and many others, offering me half the claim if we could 
 collect part of the sovereigns, centimes and pfennings 
 he had fleeced them of in Brussels. Some offered to 
 take " Dental chairs," " forceps," " double uppers," 
 " half soles," or anything else, to square up accounts. 
 Mayence, or Mainz, is a . strongly fortified town of 
 57,000 inhabitants, with a garrison of 8,000 soldiers, 
 and is historically one of the most interesting towns 
 of the Rhenish provinces. In the year 14, B. C, 
 Augustus sent his son-in-law Drusus to the Rhine, 
 as commander-in-chief, and b}^ him was Mayence 
 founded. It has a Cathedral, commenced in 9Y8, but 
 was burned down in 1009. It was restored, but again 
 destroyed by fire in 1081, IIST and 1191, after each of 
 which occasions it was re-erected on a grander scale 
 than before. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 297 
 
 From Mayence we proceed to Heidletaerg, and 'tis 
 here the beauties of an Ahnighty Creator begins to 
 show His Omnipotent grandeur in nature's architec- 
 ture and paintings. We approach Heidleberg on level 
 ground, and taking a carriage, drive up to the top 
 of the mountain, at the base and lower side of which 
 is situated this beautiful town, and arrive at the Koe- 
 nig's stool, through and over one of the most en- 
 chanting drives, shaded over by beautiful trees, their 
 branches interwoven and connected, forming a won- 
 derfully fine arch of living green, and making it so 
 cool, pleasant and enjoyable ; the drive winding up 
 the mountain side in serpentine manner, while occa- 
 sionally an opening in the trees permits us to have, 
 as we might sa}^, only a tantalizing and torm en ting- 
 glance at the panorama in the valley below. 
 
 But at last we reach the summit, and oh ! what a 
 sight awaits our coming. Standing in an open space, we 
 look down the mighty mountain side, bearing all the 
 shades of green, contrasting and harmonizing together 
 as nature onlj' can arrange her bouquets, and away down 
 at the base so quietly and beautifully lay the white 
 houses which make the pretty village of Heidleberg, 
 through which we can see its charming walks and 
 trysting places, for lovers, for families, or for, any one 
 who desires to sit in reverie, and take in, in an unbreak- 
 ing clasp, the beauties he has seen. Raising our eyes, 
 what a lovely valley we see as far as sight almost can 
 carry, divided and subdivided by the various kinds of 
 
298 Crusade 'jo Europe 
 
 grain in their various shades of ripening, and down 
 through its centre flows the little Neckar, winding its 
 narrow, serpentine path to the mother of German rivers,, 
 and we are enchanted with the scene. 'Now let us move 
 down the mountain side a little and we come to Heidleberg 
 Castle, and having seen this castle let us see no more 
 ruins bearing so formidable a name. What a grand old 
 ruin, the largest and finest in all ^urope, its symmetry 
 and proportions, and the beauty of its workmanship, still 
 plainly visible, having stood the storms and wars of 
 ages, the elegant carvings still the admiration of all and 
 defying the crumbling effects of time and season ; and 
 then its position, commanding a view of the entire 
 valley "we have just seen, and situated directly above and 
 over the town. As we sat or leaned over the balustrade 
 on that beautiful summer evening and heard the music 
 from a fine band at one of the hotels, wafted through 
 those trees and up that valley, it had all the appearance 
 of fairy-land. In the cellar of the castle is a vat or tun,, 
 which held 360,000 bottles of wine, from which the 
 king's jester, a dwarf, drank fifteen bottles per day. It 
 wasn't a very good day for drinking, either! Where,, 
 oh! where was local option in those days? EchO' 
 answers — where ? 
 
 Few towns if any can vie with Heidleberg in the 
 beauties of its environs and historical interest. It con- 
 tains about 22,000 inhabitants. The University is 
 among the oldest in Germany, was founded in 1386, by 
 Elector Rupert I., and is attended by about seven. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 299 
 
 hundred students. The library contains upwards of 
 three hundred thousand volumes, seventy thousand 
 pamplxlets, eighteen hundred MSS., and fifteen hundred 
 diplomas. 
 
 Taking a " schlaf-waggon " we continue our tour, 
 arriving the following morning at an early hour in the 
 pretty little enterprising city of Bale^ the principal city 
 of half-canton of Baleville, having a population of some 
 foi'ty-five thousand inhabitants — all enterprising — mak- 
 ing the town of B5,le a place of commercial interest of 
 no small note, and may be marked down with a history 
 dating from the ancients, as we find Bdle first named as 
 Basilea, in the year 3*14, and founded by the Romans, 
 who had the cheerful habit of founding cities and towns 
 for about the first five hundred years after the Christian 
 era, when they were pleased to pay their poor and 
 unofiending neighbors all over Europe, some and fre- 
 quent calls to borrow a piece of territory to add to 
 their empire just for amusement's sake. 
 
 We did not tarry long at Bale but went direct to 
 Lucerne, a very pretty little town on the lake of the 
 same name. The well preserved walls and watch towers 
 about and in Lucerne, which were erected in 1385, give 
 the town an imposing appearance, while its amphitheat- 
 rical situation on the lake, invests it with a peculiar 
 charm. 
 
 We take boat on the lake for Alpnacht, and the 
 scenery around this beautiful sheet of water is not 
 surpassed, if equaled, in the whole of Europe. Before 
 
300 Crusade to Europe 
 
 us as we leave the pier is tlie grand old Rigi, stern old 
 Pilatus, the fine old peaks called the Biirgensfcoek, the 
 Buochser Horn, and the Stauser Horn ; on our left the 
 Sehreckliorner, Monch, Eiger" and Jungfrau with its 
 barren peak capped with snow in the month of August ; 
 and there, nestling among those magnificent mountains, 
 their heads hoary with age, lies the pretty little town 
 of Lucerne, with its towers and battlements. Yery 
 unfortunately, from lack of time, we were denied the 
 pleasure of ascending the Rigi, much as we were led 
 into temptation to do so. As we approach the Rigi and 
 its sister mountains we are at once struck with their 
 majesty and grandeur, our strongest portions of admira- 
 tion are called upon, and here, amid those majestic 
 mountains, in whose bosom we might say lays calmlj^ 
 and peacefully this little sheet of water called Lake 
 Lucerne, in trust as we might say of their guardians, the 
 mountains — and how well we see do those guardians 
 keep their vigilant watch, they shelter the little lake, so 
 that no evil may come in, as a wolf to the fold, to 
 disturb the calm repose in which it sleeps, not a ripple 
 on its surface — and there, in front of us, behind us and 
 around us, rising up high into the pure mountain air, 
 are those mountains of nature, while occasional!}^ on 
 their sides, far up, may be seen a little, rich green place 
 cultivated by the sturdy mountaineers, and the lake 
 kisses their sides so softly and beautifully ! 
 
 We arrive at Alpnacht, whei'e we take diligence 
 through the Brunig Pass, and, as we near it, our vocabu- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 301 
 
 laiy of adjectives falls far shoi't to qualify and words to 
 describe the beauty here. We pass up and around the 
 mountain side, and between laro-e mountains whose 
 heads are seemingly blushing to appear from beneath 
 the white and fleecy clouds which hover around and rest 
 upon the tree tops, just like pretty white wool — so much 
 so, that we had the feeling that we should love to have 
 gone up thither and brought down a big armful. But 
 let us look back — a new panorama has been placed 
 there ; we again see the pretty little lake and the well 
 cultivated valley ; but the climax of all this is to be 
 reached as we near the summit. We ascend slowly as it 
 is very steep ; we are going through a narrow pass, on 
 the summit of those mountains, one on either side, like 
 horns, until at last we are on level ground, through 
 which we run, until, turning suddenly to the right, and 
 there — oh ! there, what a sight ! — nature has given her 
 kaleidoscope another turn, and though we think she has 
 been kindly showing us Irer best architectural piles in 
 her mountains, and her best paintings in her valleys and 
 plains, we find she has only been leading us on, tantaliz- 
 ing our appetites for more of her beauties, leading us 
 farther into her meshes, just as mau}^ are led into vice — 
 for, having seen one picture we want to go on and see 
 more. Here she has placed her finest picture. On our 
 right hand, and on our way down, is the steep mountain 
 side, round which the road, smooth as a table, gracefully 
 winds; just over the precipices on our left, and away in 
 front, from directly under our position, lays the unspeak- 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 able charming Brienz Valley, as level as can be, and so 
 cultivated and mapped out as to resemble a vast checker- 
 board of squares, composed of such greens as may be 
 seen onl}'' in Switzerland ; and then, directly down its 
 centre, runs the little river Aar, entering' into the small 
 but picturesque Brienz Lake in the distance. Down the 
 steep side of the mountain on which we are is one side 
 of the background, of thickly wooded pines, and then, 
 over on our left, are two sturdy mountains looming 
 haughtily into the air. From a side base, in cone shape, 
 and just in between the tops of these two cones, stands a 
 barren, rugged, bald-faced mountain, with a head gear of 
 the purest white snow, made brilliant like diamonds by 
 the sun's rays, and what a grand and lovely background 
 all this makes to the modest yet beautiful valley at these 
 haughty mountains' feet ; yet they all seem to me like a 
 happy family. The mountain, with its hoary, white 
 head covered with its perpetual wig of snow, keeps its 
 place, and does not seem jealous of its sister moun- 
 tains, who, with their luxuriant foliage, do not seem 
 to envy their taller sister, which bears her peculiar 
 mark of admiration, that of snow in summer, but 
 all seeiji to clasp hands round their little 2^^ot€ge — 
 the valley — as much as to say, in the strong voice of 
 nature, "Our little daughter is beautiful, her pretty 
 face we will guard and shelter from winter's cold 
 blast, she shall be " nice and warm, and from 
 our tops we will let our little streams of clear, cold, 
 sparkling water pour down our sides, and give her 
 
OF Allegheny Commanuery. 
 
 refreshing food and drink, so tliat slie shall be beau- 
 tiful always, and we will reflect credit upon her by 
 appearing- here as a background for her," and the 
 beautiful valley would seem to say in response: "My 
 big sisters are so kind, I will try and be more 
 beautiful than ever, and try to reflect beaut3^ back 
 upon my more striking sisters, who have grown so 
 tall, 3'-et would lack their grandeur were I to fade 
 and die away." Then, as we pass on down high, 
 rugged rocks, perpendicular, and, at times, hanging 
 over us, until, as we near the base, and are about 
 to enter the plain, we find we are in an immense 
 Colosseum — a great, vast, close amphitheatre of hills 
 — the niches in whose sides form a gallery, that man, 
 in all his power and strength of mind, can never 
 hope to accomplish in imitating. How very small 
 are we poor traveling, toiling, or indolent ants in 
 comparison with the other works of nature ! True, 
 the human being has an immortal soul that poor, 
 dumb nature has not ; but, oh ! how she, in her 
 beauty and wonders, speaks to us in words far more 
 powerful and expressive than any in the vocabulary 
 of any human tongue. 
 
 When we take the little boat at Brienz, on the 
 little Brienz Lake, which is much smaller, but no less 
 beautiful than Lake Lucerne, we find ourselves land- 
 locked, we can scarcely trace the road through which 
 we came, and this is wholly the feature with Swiss 
 scener}^ ; it is a picture that is ever and constantly 
 
304 
 
 Crusade to Europe 
 
 changing at every step we advance — a peak pops out its 
 bare or beautifully covered head, if only for a peep, 
 or a valley shows its pretty face in some kindly opening- 
 nook in the mountain, or some grand old barren rock 
 struts forward boldly and commands attention at once. 
 
 As we leave Brienz on the little steamer, across the 
 lake stands a very high mountain, entirely covered 
 with pine trees, and about half way up in a little 
 crevice in the mountain stands the Giessbach hotel, an 
 elegant building, in just such a situation as the shrewd 
 old ancients selected for their castles. The situation 
 is delightful, commanding a fine view of all the sur- 
 rounding country ; a little above it are the Giessbach 
 "Waterfall and Cascade, which are known as the illum- 
 inated falls. 
 
 The Lake of Brienz is seven and a half miles long 
 and two miles in width, surrounded entirely and com- 
 pletely by lofty wooded mountains and rocks. We stop 
 at Bonigen, and are conveyed by railway about a 
 quarter of an hour's ride to Tnterlaken, which is a 
 delightful ride ; seated in comfortable seats on the 
 tops of the cars, an ample opportunity is afforded to 
 take in tlie surrounding scenery. 
 
 Proceeding to the Royal Victoria Hotel, at Inter- 
 laken, one of the "finest hotels visited on our tour, 
 after dinner — and a rare one too — we had the pleasure 
 of seeing some very elegant costumes at a full dress 
 hop that was given in the parlors of the hotel on that 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 305 
 
 same evening. Inteiiaken lies between tlie Lalces of 
 Tliun and Brienz, and in tlie centre of tlie town is 
 a handsome avenue of walnut trees, and from its 
 centre a fine view is obtained of the snow-capped 
 Jungfrau. 
 
 The town is a great resort for summer visitors from 
 almost all quarters, and is noted for its even and mild 
 temperature. From Interlaken we travel to Thun and 
 Berne, starting on the steamer on Lake of Thun, which 
 is ten and a half miles long and two in width, with 
 picturesque villas and gardens at first on either bank, 
 and then becoming high and precipitous. 
 
 From Thun on a lovely Sabbath morning we travel 
 to and arrive at Berne, a very pretty little Swiss town, 
 crossing the Nydeckhrucke^ a handsome railroad bridge of 
 three arches, completed in 1844, at the end of which is 
 the Bear's Den ; here the bear, which is the heraldic 
 emblem of Berne is maintained, according to im- 
 memorial custom at the expense of the municipality, 
 and no persons are permitted to make old Bruin any 
 ofierings except bread and fruit. An English officer 
 in 1861 fell into the home and arms of Bruin, and 
 was torn in pieces, after a desperate struggle. 
 
 Berne is a place of much interest, containing about 
 40,000 inhabitants. It is built on a peninsula of 
 sandstone rock, and the fine stone houses are mostly 
 all built over arcades, the pavements nearly all being 
 under cover. As Brooklyn is the city ot churches, 
 
 T 
 
3o6 Crusade to Europe 
 
 SO Berne might properly be called the city of foun- 
 tains, most of which are adorned with statues in which 
 the bear is always a prominent and recurring object. 
 While passing round the city we saw the most singular 
 and ingenious mechanical figures in the Clock Tower. 
 At three minutes of any hour a cock flaps its wings 
 and crows ; near it, in a circle, like a circus ring, 
 comes out a number of animals and grotesque figures, 
 which run around five or six times ; while this is 
 going on a devil sits up on a stool, each hand on 
 a bell-rope, and rings two bells, kicks up his feet, 
 and laughs; then, as the hour is reached, a large iron 
 figure of a man raises his arms and strikes the hour 
 on the large bell with a hammer ; at the same time 
 a man with a long white beard, representing Old 
 Age, turns over a sand-glass, slowly nodding his 
 head, and a bear his. 
 
 A fine building is the Cathedral, which was com- 
 menced in 1421, and completed fifty-two years later. It 
 has some particularly fine decorations, the sculptures 
 representing the Last Judgment, the Prophets, the 
 Apostles and the Wise and Foolish Virgins. Among 
 other prominent buildings are the Museum, the Uni- 
 versity, the Corn ^all, the Federal Council, &c. 
 
 From Berne we take train to Lausanne, but do not 
 stop here longer than to change cars ; and securing a 
 seat on the right side, we continue our journeying, 
 skirting for a number of miles the beautiful Lake of 
 Geneva, which is a singular and very deep blue color, 
 and on its banks grow the sweet and wild chestnut, the 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 307 
 
 walnut, the magnolia, the cedar of Lebanon and the 
 omnipresent grapevine. There is a very singular 
 feature in connection with the Lake of Geneva ; at 
 particular spots the water rises several feet without any 
 apparent cause or previous commotion, remains so for 
 about half an hour, and then subsides to its original 
 level. This is a singular phenomenon, and occurs 
 mostly in spring and autumn, and at night. The cur- 
 rents caused by the rising of subterranean springs are 
 frequently so strong that no oarsman can make headway 
 against them. We next come to the Castle of Chillon, 
 where Bonivard was confined in 1530, by the Duke of 
 Savoy. From near this point we enter the picturesque 
 valley of the Rhone, which is only three miles wide, and 
 hemmed in on either side by very high mountains, while 
 down the valley flows the Rhone river, a dark grey 
 colored water, and shortly after we arrive at Martigny 
 and proceed to the Hotel Clerc, where we remain for the 
 night, preparatory to crossing over the Tete-Noire to 
 Chamouny. Hardly any feature of Martigny is worth 
 mentioning, save the very prevalent and repulsive 
 form of cretinism, of which almost every inhabitant is 
 afflicted, and are the most disgusting looking people as 
 a rule to be seen anywhere, with large heads, squat and 
 bloated figures, bleared and hollow eyes, flat noses, 
 limbs short and misshapen, knees thick, feet flat and an 
 immense gathering at the throat, and generally have the 
 sexual instincts developed in the most brutal form. It is 
 a rare exception to find one not afflicted with goitre or 
 incipient cretinism in male and female, young or old. 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 Retiring early, we were up with the sun, and on 
 our way over the Tete-Noire, which we proceed to as- 
 cend through vine^'-ards and orchards, and meadows, 
 where may be seen men cutting liaj- and grain, and 
 women, girls and boys raking and binding, and on the 
 mountain side we have a most magnificent and extensive 
 view of the valley of the Rhone, and continuing our 
 ascent, a good healthy one at that, we arrive at the sum- 
 mit, and have one of the grandest views we have yet 
 seen ; on our left having the Col de Bahiie, behind us 
 the snow capped Buet, and on the right the Aiguilles 
 Rouges, with Mont Blanc, the Gemmi, the Jungfrau, 
 the Finster-Aarhorn, Grimseli and Furca, all in view in 
 the distance and all beautifully topped with snow. 
 From here we descend the steep side of the mountain, 
 through the famous forest of Trient, and over a rough 
 and rugged road cut out from the solid rock to Chate- 
 lard, and through the grandest of scenery, wild and 
 romantic in appearance ; and after dinner and changing 
 horses we continue our ride to Chamouny, where we 
 arrive late in the afternoon, and from our room windows 
 in the Angletevie we look up to old Mont Blanc, with its 
 wonderful glaciers, the Glacier du Tour^ d'Argentieve, 
 Mer De Glace, and des Bossons. 
 
 Any attempt at description of this grand and gor- 
 geous scenery would be simply a failure upon our part, 
 and words inadequate to its beauty, as one can scarcely 
 conceive of this grand old mountain rising to the height 
 of 15, "7 3 2 feet, covered with its aforementioned glaciers 
 
uF Allegheny Commandkry. 309 
 
 and beautiful white snow, while down in the pretty 
 valley of Chamouuy but a short distance from the 
 lower portion of the glaciers, may be seen the Swiss 
 reaping their golden grain. With a contrast so great, 
 summer wedded to winter, heat to frost, harvest to 
 harvest's death, the scenery can better be imagined than 
 described. 
 
 At 7 A. M. we take the express coach, an eight-horse 
 immense vehicle, and journey through picturesque and 
 beautiful valleys, the views upon the road constantly 
 changing ; one high old mountain on either side playing 
 " peep " round the corner of another, so that one could 
 almost continue traveling over Switzerland and never 
 weary in all the beauties which are constantly presented, 
 and passing lovely grounds and handsome suburbs, we 
 enter the beautiful city of Geneva. 
 
 Geneva is one of the prettiest situated and prettiest 
 looking cities of Europe, containing about 48,000 in- 
 habitant^, about one-half of whom are Catholics. The 
 river Rhone emerges from the lake and shoots swiftlj^ 
 through the town. The old city which lies on the left 
 bank of the Rhone, is narrow and hilly and rather 
 unsightly, but upon the removal of the fortifications, 
 which were converted into promenades and quays, it has 
 been made a verj^ handsome elegantly built city. 
 
 From the grand quay which fronts on the lake, a 
 splendid view is to be had of the Mont Blanc range of 
 mountains, and on a summer evening the appearance is 
 certainly the most handsome conceivable. 
 
3IO Crusade to Europe 
 
 It was in this town that John Calvin, the founder of 
 Presbyterianism, while advocating the principles and 
 doctrines with which he was imbued, and liberty of con- 
 science and religious thought, performed the charitable, 
 Christianlike and humane act of banishing one of his 
 friends for differing with him on a little point of 
 predestination, banished him, and carried out the more 
 interesting and cheerful act of burning at the stake 
 another poor fellow who differed with him on the 
 doctrine of the Trinity, who on account of Calvin's 
 charitable teachings, had fled to the city of Geneva 
 where he expected he would receive encouragement and 
 shelter from those whom he was led to believe would 
 give such, only to meet his horrible fate of slowly 
 roasting to death tied to a stake. 
 
 The Cathedral is a fine building dedicated to St. 
 Peter, and is supposed to occup}^ the site of an ancient 
 temple of Apollo. The public library contains about 
 sixty thousand volumes. The University, founded in 
 1368, was reorganized by Calvin and Beza; in it are 
 taught belles-lettres, philosophy, science, divinity, and 
 law, the new building costing one-and-a-quarter million 
 francs. 
 
 Over three thousand persons are employed in Geneva, 
 in the manufacture of watches, jewehy and musical 
 boxes, and some conception of the chronometers, &c., 
 turned out in this city may be had when we give the 
 figures of over one hundred thousand watches being- 
 made annually, using seventy-five thousand ounces of 
 
OF Allegheny CoMMANDERY. 311 
 
 gold, five thousand marks of silver, and over two hundred 
 thousand dollars worth of precious stones, and in 
 addition to 'these are manufactured velvets, silks, leather, 
 cutlery, firearms, mathematical, astronomical, and surgi- 
 cal instruments. 
 
 The history of Geneva can almost be dated back to 
 122, B. C. and was burned during the reign of Helioga- 
 balus, and rebuilt by Aurelian. John Knox was made a 
 citizen of Geneva in 1558. In 1*782, about one thousand 
 of the citizens of Geneva applied for permission to 
 settle in Ireland, and the Irish Parliament voted £50,000 
 to defray their expenses and granted them settlements of 
 land near Waterford, but this never succeeded. It will 
 also be remembered that the court of arbitration 
 appointed by the United States, Great Britain, Italy, 
 Switzerland, and Brazil, met in this city to settle the 
 Alabama question, arising between the United States 
 and Great Britain. In 18^3, the Duke of Brunswick, 
 who died in that year, left his entire fortune of one 
 hundred million francs to the city, which makes us think 
 what a feast it would be for Pittsburgh, had she about 
 half a dozen dukes as her residents, who would take it 
 cheerfully into their heads to die and leave a few 
 millions for the city's benefit. She needs it badly. 
 
 From Geneva we take train for Pai'is, a long and 
 tedious ride of about seventeen hours, and we encount- 
 ered rather an amusing incident on our journey thither. 
 Mr. John Main and " Carlisle " were comfortably spread 
 out the entire length of the three seats of the compart- 
 
312 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ment, locked tightly in the arms of Morpheus, the hour 
 was about two o'clock in the morning, and dark as the 
 darkness of Eg;ypt. To our train was attached a very 
 elegantly fitted-up directors' car, in which was a party 
 of handsomely dressed English ladies and stylishly made- 
 up gentlemen. " Carlisle " was av/akened from his 
 sound and peaceful slumbers by feeling some person or 
 persons pulling vigorously at his clothing, and a full 
 round voice of pure broad English, saying, " Get up? 
 young man ; wake up, 3'oung man, li'and don't keep the 
 ladies standing, joii know." We did as directed and 
 awakened to find us in a perfect bedlam of chatter and 
 noise. There was an elderly gentleman with evidently a 
 liver that was in very bad condition, judging from his 
 countenance ; an elderly lady, his wife, with the similar 
 necessary portion of her living apparatus in about the 
 same condition ; a younger gentlemen and lady. These 
 we recognize as the party occupying the special car, the 
 journals and wheel works of which had become red-hot 
 from fast running, and had to be cut off at a side station 
 and its occupants transferred to our carriage and com- 
 partment, into which they were placed, each carrying 
 band-boxes, hat-boxes, valises, satchels, coats, wraps, 
 &c., while the elderly lady carried in her hands an 
 article of ladies' wearing apparel usually purchased by 
 number, and they jabbered away in about this style: 
 Old gent — "Wli}', my deah, you'll catch your death of 
 cold, yoii av'n't even got your sta^-s on, my deah ! '' Old 
 lady— " Perfectly scandalous this, taken from one's bed 
 at two o'clock in the morning in a pei'fect state of 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 313 
 
 prespiration ; terrible, indeed, h'and then tlirust into a 
 compartment with perfect strangers, h'and they occupy- 
 ing the entire seats ! " while the younger lady relieved 
 herself about thusly : " Perfect shame, this, ought to be 
 Avritten to Times, you know ; no place in Britain would 
 we be treated like this ; perfectly scandalous to be 
 taken from one's couch in their sleeping garments,'' &c. 
 All this given in true English accent, it was, we thought 
 the funniest thing we had ever seen, and should have 
 been seen to have been full}^ enjoyed. Of course the 
 remarks of the 0. L. were a little rough on Mr. Main 
 and " Carlisle," still we are always ready to forgive the 
 ignorant for they never know any better. 
 
 Arriving in Paris, we spend two or three days, and 
 then, via Calais and Dover, we proceed to London, 
 where we arrive about 7 A. M. 
 
 i^L, 
 
314 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ^eftt^P' Mo. 8. 
 
 London and its Sig-lits. — The Unfortunate Loss of a 
 ■Watch.— Pilgrims Turn Their Weary Feet Home- 
 ■wards. — "Carlisle" and the Doctor Badly Used 
 Up on the Home-ward Voyag'e. — Particularly 
 "Carlisle." — Arrival Home. — Incidents by the 
 "Way. 
 
 On our arrival at the station at London, we here 
 hastily bade good-bye to Mr. Wm. Semple, who drove to 
 Pancross Station, to take train at once for other cities in 
 England, Scotland and Ireland for business purposes, 
 and Mr. Main and " Carlisle" wended their way to the 
 Midland Grand Hotel, where we found our old friend, 
 the Doctor, domiciled in his room and fast asleep, he 
 having as stated, "raised" sufficient on his tour, solitary 
 and alone, having spent a few days with our partj^ in 
 Brussells, and found his way back through Holland and 
 Belgium, to London. We soon had him awake, and 
 inquiries made relative to our baggage and some pur- 
 chases we had made on the continent and sent per Ex- 
 press to London from Cologne, paying ten francs for the 
 same in order to secure promptness and security in 
 delivery. The Doctor cheerfully informed us our bag- 
 gage had not yet arrived, and we spent one entire day in 
 a '' hansom '' and in the neighborhood of three or 
 four thousand pounds in fees in looking it up, finally 
 succeeding in finding it about six o'clock in the evening. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 315 
 
 They conduct their Express companies on the 
 most scientific mule plan of anything we have ever seen! 
 If we wished to send a package, say to Sewickley, 
 about thirteen miles from the city of Alleghen}^, on the 
 European plan, it would be forwarded in the lightning- 
 time of about four days from the office in Allegheny to 
 tliat of Sewickley, while, allowing all due time for de- 
 lays in carrying packages to express office, by ordering 
 some goods by telegraph from New York a person 
 might reasonably expect that the order given in the 
 spring the goods would come to hand by the fall at an}^ 
 rate, so expeditious and systematic are they in the good 
 " Old Countrie." 
 
 Starting out to see London is like going to visit a 
 •country of itself; however, securing a " hansom" we 
 go over the main part of the ground. London, in the 
 twelfth centur}^ had about 50,000 inhabitants, in the 
 seventeenth, about 200,000; in I8OI, about 1,000,000; 
 in 1821, about 1,350,000; in 1841, about 2,000,000; in 
 1861, almost 3,000,000, and in 1871, about 4,000,000; 
 almost as many as the entire State of Penns^dvania, 
 most of whom also were born in England. The city of 
 London has about Y,400 streets, which, if laid end to 
 end would form a line 2,600 miles long, or to give an 
 idea of distance, would stretch almost across the Ameri- 
 can continent. It is lighted by 1,000,000 gas lamps, 
 and consumes 28,000,000 cubic feet of gas daily. The 
 annual value of house propert}^ is about £24,000,000 
 pounds sterling. A singular fact is that there are more 
 ■Scotchmen in London than are i" Edinburgh, more 
 
3i6 . Crusade to Europe 
 
 Irish than in Dublin, more Jews than in Palestine, and 
 more Roman Catholics than in Rome! It is estimated 
 that there are annually consumed about 2,000,000 quar- 
 ters of wheat, 400,000 oxen, 1,500,000 sheep, 130,000 
 calves, 250,000 swine, 8,000,000 head of poultry and 
 game, 400,000,000 pounds of fish, 500,000,000 oysters, 
 1,250,000 lobsters, and 3,000,000 salmon, and wash 
 all this down with 1.80,000,000 quarts of porter and ale, 
 .8,000,000 quarts of spirits, and 31,000,000 quarts of 
 wine. For a city of big figures, by all means commend 
 us to London. 
 
 The most frequented part of London is London 
 Bridge, nine hundred feet long, over which passes daily 
 about twenty-five thousand vehicles and countless pedes- 
 trians. 
 
 On the highest ground in the city stands St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, on whose site it has been maintained stood a 
 temple of Diana, in Pagan times. The present church,, 
 of which Sir Christopher Wren was the architect, was 
 opened for divine service in 169T, though not completed 
 until 1710. The greater part of the cost of construction 
 was defrayed by a tax on coal, and the building was 
 commenced and completed under the supervision of one 
 architect, one master mason and one bishop. It is the 
 third largest church in Christendom ; its nave being five 
 hundred feet in length, and one hundred and eighteen 
 feet in width, and from the pavement to the top of the 
 cross it is four hundred and four feet. In the church 
 are fine monuments to Nelson, John Howard, Dr. John- 
 
OF Ali.kgheny Commandery. 317 
 
 son, Sir Charles Napier, and Wellington. In a chamber 
 behind the sarcophagus of Nelson is the hearse used at 
 the Duke of Wellington's funeral with all its trappings. 
 Westminster Abbey is a fine building dating from 
 the seventh century, in which all the British Sovereigns 
 from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria have 
 been crowned, and in which many of them are buried. 
 Almost all the space is taken up within the Abbey by 
 monuments and tablets, some of them very handsome, 
 t)thers horrible executions and designs. A peculiar 
 inscription is upon the monument of John Gay, the poet, 
 which was composed by himself for his own tablet: 
 
 " Life is a jest : and all things show it : 
 I thought so once, but now I know it." 
 
 Surrounding the eastern end are nine chapels ; the centre 
 of the chapel of Edward the Confessor was richl}^ 
 inlaid with mosaic work. The monuments of Queen 
 Elizabeth and Mar}^ Stuart are in the north and south 
 aisles ; near the former is the monument to Edward V., 
 and his brother Duke of York, the sons of Edward IV., 
 who were murdered in the tower, when children, by kind- 
 hearted Richard III. In the Poefs Corner beside the 
 other illustrious dead are buried Macauley, Dickens, 
 Bulwer, and Livingstone. 
 
 The Parliament Houses occupy the site of the old 
 palace which was destroyed b_y fire in 1834. They 
 ■cover an area of eight acres, have eleven hundred com- 
 partments and one hundred staircases, with two miles of 
 corridors. The House of Lords is one of the most 
 
3i8 Crusade to Europe 
 
 gorgeous legislative halls in the world. It contains the 
 throne for the Queen, a seat for H. R. H., the Prince of 
 Wales, and the woolsack for the Lord Chancellor, The 
 Houses were erected from a plan by Sir Charles Barry^ 
 out of ninety-seven others in competition. 
 
 Facing the throne is the reporters' and strangers' 
 gallery. In the windows, which are filled with stained 
 glass and lighted at night from the outside | are twelve 
 figures, and at either end of the room statues of the 
 barons who compelled King John to sign Magna Charta. 
 The entrance for the Queen is at the Victoria Tower, at 
 which she enters when convening or proroguing Parlia- 
 ment, and ever since the gunpowder plot of 1605, the 
 cellars underneath the house are always thoroughly 
 examined two hours before the Sovereign's arrival. 
 
 The Peers' Lobby contains some very elegant brass 
 candelabra, and each peer has in this lobby his own hat 
 peg provided with his name. The House of Commons- 
 is not so lavishly and elaborately' fitted up as is the 
 House of Lords, but in a more business-like appearance. 
 In the central hall are marble statues of Hampden, 
 Selden, Sir Robert Walpole, Lord Cliatham, the Irish 
 orator Grrattan, Lord Clarendon, Lord Falkland, Lord 
 Somers, Lord Mansfield, Fox and Burke. 
 
 Westminster Hall is full of historical recollections; 
 being used at one time by the English Parliament, where 
 coronation festivals were held by a number of monarchs, 
 where Charles I. was condemned to death, and where 
 Cromwell, clothed in royal purple lined with ermine, 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 319, 
 
 was saluted and hailed as Lord Protector, while within 
 a very few years afterwards his body was rudely dragged 
 from its grave in Westminster Abbey, his head taken off 
 and exposed between those of Bradshaw and Ireton, on 
 the pinnacles of this same Westminster Hall, where he 
 was greeted with the "All hail, Lord Protector ! " and it 
 remained tliere for over thirty years, a high wind at last 
 carrying it to the ground. Here also were condemned 
 to death Sir William Wallace, Sir John Oldcastle, Sir 
 Thomas More, the Earl of Essex, Guy Fawkes, and the 
 Earl of Stafford. 
 
 The Tower of London is the next object of visita- 
 tion, having a bright, cheerful record for murders done 
 up in the most approved manner by royalty, is now a 
 government fortress, and kept in repair as such. It is 
 a very ancient institution, and can be traced back to the 
 time of Julius C?esar. It contains a renowned and 
 wonderful collection of firearms, as also the Regalia 
 Room for the Queen's jewels. In this tower Richard 
 II., abdicated in favor of Henry of Bolingbroke, and 
 the heads taken from Sir Thomas More, Queen Anne 
 Boleyn, Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, Margaret 
 Pole, Countess of Salisbury, Queen Catherine Howard, 
 Lord Admiral Seymour, Lord Somerset, the protector ; 
 John Dudley, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, Robert 
 Devereux, Earl of Essex, James Fitzroy, and Sir 
 Thomas Overbury was poisoned therein, while a very 
 large list of celebrated personages might be named as 
 having been confined there for the purpose of dying a 
 slow and miserable death,, or taken out to make a bon- 
 
320 Crusade to Europe 
 
 fire so that some good and noble saints might piously 
 part their coat tails and warm themselves, while others 
 were cruelly tortured or poisoned. 
 
 In the Tower also are the Queen's jewels, as stated, 
 where may be seen Queen Victoria's crown, made in 
 1838, and containing 2,183 diamonds, and the famous 
 Koh-i-noor, one of the largest diamonds known, weigh- 
 ing one hundred and sixtj^-two karats. 
 
 The General Post Office is a fine building, in the 
 Ionic .style ; but let us look at a few figures, just for 
 curiosity's sake, taken from late statistics of the Post 
 Office business of Great Britain. In 1876, 298,000,000 
 book packets and newspapers, 93,000,000 postal cards 
 and 1,019,000,000 letters passed througli the mails, 
 while in 1814, there were issued 15,100,562 post office 
 orders, covering a sum of £26,296,441, and in 1816, 
 the number of orders issued was 11,822,921, covering 
 £21,516,196, and the Post Office Savings Bank had on 
 deposit in 1815, £26,000,000, with the profits of the 
 Post Office Department amounting to £1,894,141. 
 
 The Telegraph office is directly opposite the Post 
 Office, and showing the advantage of the government 
 ■controlling the telegraph lines; a dispatch of twenty 
 words can be sent to any part of the Kingdom for one 
 shilling, or twenty-five cents. The Instrument Gallery 
 • contains five hundred instruments, while in the basement 
 is a fifty-horse power engine for forwarding messages to 
 other city offices by means of pnuematic tubes ; in 1816 
 the number of telegrams forwarded was 21,000,000. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 321 
 
 An interesting place is the Royal Mint ; from 1865 
 to 1875 there were coined in the Mint, 44,179,233 sover- 
 eigns, 15,724,945 half-sovereigns, 14,198,254 florins, 43,- 
 275,160 shillings. 
 
 Guild Hall is a large building, which is now used for 
 municipal meetings. On November ninth, the Lord 
 Mayor elect proceeds in state to Westminster Hall, 
 where he is sworn in, and in the evening gives a 
 sumptuous banquet in Guild Hall, which is attended by 
 the ministers of government and other public dignitaries. 
 
 At the further end of Cheapside, one of the busiest 
 streets in London, and containing handsome stores, is 
 the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord 
 Mayor during his year of office, and from the Mansion 
 House to Blackfriars Bridge, is Queen Victoria street, 
 one of the great improvements of London, and construct- 
 ed at vast expense. 
 
 The Bank of England comes next, covering four 
 acres of ground; founded in 1691, by William Patei'son, 
 a Scotchman, and is the only bank in London having the 
 power to issue paper money, fifteen thousand new bank- 
 notes being turned out daily. Its vaults usually con- 
 tains from fifteen to twenty million pounds sterling, 
 employs about nine hundred pei'sons, and the bank 
 receives £200,000 per annum for managing the national 
 debt which amounts to in the neighborhood of 
 £775,348,686, and it is estimated it would take £40,000 
 per annum to cover the forgeries practiced upon — princi- 
 pall}^ by shrewd Yankees — careful as the bank officials are. 
 
 u 
 
322 Crusade to Europe 
 
 London Bridge was of course visited, if for no otlier 
 reason tlian to see how far violators of their oaths as 
 Knights of Submission might have to fall. It was design- 
 ed by a Scotchman, the lamp-posts of which are cast of 
 metal of French cannon, captured in the peninsular war. 
 Close by is the monument erected in commemoration of 
 the great fire, which destroyed four hundred and sixty 
 streets and over thirteen thousand houses and churches. 
 
 Then we take a walk through Billingsgate, the great 
 fish market of London, where refined and choice lan- 
 guage are a main feature, so much so that it is as 
 renowned for that as for its fish. 
 
 While walking along Victoria Embankment, a new 
 and beautiful drive and promenade, constructed at a cost 
 of over £2,000,000, we saw them putting in place the 
 Egyptian obelisk from Alexandria, otherwise Cleopatra's 
 Needle. This famous obelisk was presented to the 
 English Government by Mohammed Ali, and taken to 
 England by the private munificence of Dr. Erasmus 
 Wilson. It measures about seventy feet in height, and 
 is eight feet at the base, and weighs about two hundred 
 and twenty tons. 
 
 A very interesting visit may be made to the office of 
 the Times, spoken of by our lady friends en route to 
 Paris ; about twelve thousand copies can be struck off in 
 one hour ; the continuous rolls of paper with which the 
 machine feeds itself are each four miles in length, and of 
 these about thirty are used daily. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 323 
 
 Trafalgar Square is a beautiful place, dedicated to 
 Admiral Nelson, with a handsome granite column rising 
 from its centre, crowned with a statue of the hero of the 
 naval battle of Trafalgar. On one side is a scene from 
 the battle of Aboukir, with JSTelson wounded in the head, 
 declining to be assisted out of turn by the surgeon who 
 is dressing the wounds of a common sailor, and b^low 
 the death scene of Nelson ; on another side is Nelson's 
 last command, " England expects every man will do his 
 duty." 
 
 The Albert Memorial is a magnificent monument to 
 the memory of the late Prince Consort, erected by the 
 English nation, costing £120,000, half of which was 
 defrayed by voluntary contributions. On a spacious 
 platform, to which granite steps ascend, on each side 
 rises a basement, adorned with reliefs of marble, repre- 
 senting artists of every period. On one side are poets 
 and musicians ; on another, painters ; on another, archi- 
 tects, and on the remaining one, sculptors. Four 
 projecting pedestals at the angles support marble groups, 
 representing Agriculture, Manufacture, Commerce and 
 Engineering. At the corner of the steps leading up to 
 the basement are four pedestals bearing magnificent 
 allegorical representations, sculptured in marble, repre- 
 senting the four quarters of the globe — Europe, Asia, 
 Africa and AixK|rica. 
 
 We cannot possibly go over all the ground, the 
 Royal Exchange, Corn Exchange, Coal Exchange, 
 Blackfriars Bridge, the Temple, National Grallery, Ken- 
 
324 Crusade to Europe 
 
 sington Museum, Buckingham Palace, Hyde . Park, 
 Regent's Park, Zoological Gardens, British Museum, as 
 the two latter alone would fill one or more such A^olumes 
 as this, not to speak of the thousand other places of 
 interest in London, not even mentioned in this volume. 
 
 A few brief facts in connection with London and we 
 are done with that city. There are 6ver fifteen hundred 
 places of worship within the metropolitan limits ; about 
 four hundred Wesleyan and other Methodist places of 
 worship ; the Baptists have about three hundred, the 
 Congregationalists about half as many as the latter • the 
 Roman Catholics have about one hundred, the English 
 and other Presbyterians about twenty-five, Unitarians 
 about twelve, the Jews have twenty synagogues, with 
 the number constantly increasing, and numerous other 
 miscellaneous places, chapels, &c. 
 
 The Temple Church near Temple Bar, consists of the 
 Round Church and the choir, and was formerly used as 
 a place of worship by the Knights Templar, and no more 
 interesting work can be read than' that of Mr, William 
 Longman, who gives a detailed history of all the 
 religious work of London, in his " History of the Three 
 Cathedrals," dedicated to St. Paul of London. The 
 total number of charitable institutions in London is over 
 one thousand, and their united computed income about 
 twenty-five millions of dollars per annum, j 
 
 While in London an unfortunate thing occurred to 
 one of our party, poor fellow, now deceased, and we tell 
 it as a warning to all visitors to " Merrie England " to 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 325 
 
 be on the look-out for gentlemen with " freight bills " 
 and "old acquaintances," &c. It seems our old friend, 
 Dr. Wm. M. Herron, was sitting in front of the hotel in 
 London, enjoying one of Elton's fragrant William's ^ 
 Havana cigars at a dollar a piece, in company with our 
 rather elderly friend from the adjacent government of 
 New Jersey, who carried a very elegant and valuable 
 chronometer, chain and Maltese cross. Dr. Herron had 
 occasion to go into the hotel for a moment, and on 
 coming out found the old gentleman had also vacated 
 his seat. After a while he turned up, large drops of 
 perspiration standing on his forehead, and thereby hangs 
 a tale. It appears a prepossessing-looking and elegant- 
 talking gentleman approached our friend, engaged him 
 in conversation somewhat thusly : " Pleasant evening," 
 etc. " Why, jj-ou're a Knight Templar, aren't you ? 
 Happy meeting ; belong to that fraternity myself," said 
 Mr. Smart Alex, examining at the same time the honor- . ^ 
 able gentleman's cross and chain. ■ Mr. S. took out his 
 time-piece at the same time, and smiled that hearty 
 smile peculiarly his own. Mr. Smart Man examined the 
 $450 watch, &c., and loosened it from its guard, remark- 
 ing that "he had a verj^ ancient and valuable Masonic 
 ring in his room, which he would just go and bring for 
 the Judge's examination,'' taking, however, the time- 
 piece with him, the unsuspecting Mr. S., no doubt, feeling a 
 elated over his newly-made friend from his own country. 
 Were it not for the fact that we had seen Mr. S. in 
 America, since his return from the " Crusade," and that 
 
326 ~ Crusade to Europe 
 
 he has since made his long last pilgrimage, we would be 
 prone to believe our friend was still patiently waiting 
 the return of the fine-looking gentleman who was a 
 Knight Templar; and here we would take occasion to 
 plainly say to all readers, beware of all men who by 
 means of any emblems of any order, no matter what it 
 is, would desire to display them for business purposes, 
 they are neither Odd-Fellows, Masons, Knights of 
 Pythias, or anything else, and may properly be con- 
 demned and looked down upon as being neither consis- 
 tent members of the order they claim to belong to, nor 
 are they in common terms, honorable men. A man wIiq 
 will display an emblem of any order for a purpose, other 
 than that for which it is intended, can generally be 
 marked down either in the books of the craft themselves 
 or by outsiders as being N. Gr. or D. 1?., which being- 
 ^ interpreted meaneth " no good " and " dead beat " in 
 vulgar parlance. 
 
 The same will also hold good in cases of men whose 
 hands are full of grips, as they choose to call them, as a 
 general rule and with very rare exceptions, are impos- 
 ters, practical paupers, and below the dignity of either 
 members or non-members of any secret organization^ 
 and in saying this we mean tliose wlio would make a 
 business of it, or who think they can accomplish an end 
 by such means, they could not otherwise obtain. 
 
 THE RETURN OP THE WANDERERS. 
 
 We were now prepared to turn our faces homewards, 
 towards the setting sun and our own fair land, though 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 327 
 
 inwardly we had some premonition a bad case was ahead < 
 for ns, wliieh afterwards turned out to be only too true; 
 alas ! how true, for oh ! how " Carlisle " suffered none 
 can ever tell, it makes us actually sea-sick to even think 
 of it, and notwithstanding frequent crossing of the 
 Atlantic, "Carlisle" for about three days was the 
 sickest, most disconsolate and let-down mortal that ever 
 stepped aboard a steamer, and as we have told the 
 doings of some of our part}'' in preceding letters, per- 
 haps it would not be the fair, square thing to allow 
 " Carlisle " to pass by without giving him a good solid 
 dig between the ribs, for he had his enjoyment over the 
 poor unfortunates who made the chants and responses, 
 and yelled " New York ! " in gurgled tones on board the 
 fine British and IS'orth American Royal Mail Steam- 
 packet " Russia." But we are very happy to say the 
 Doctor was just as bad as " Carlisle ; " but from some 
 peculiar faculty he bears, the Doctor is by all odds the 
 most unmitigated lively sick man, when he is sea-sick, 
 we have ever seen. He may wriggle around on his four- 
 feet-six stilts, looking or making for the wheel-house, 
 but he'll go thither and take his position at the ensign 
 staff in the rear of the wheel-house, the vessel pitching* 
 and rolling round, a soda cracker in his hand, and 
 expectorate at the " blarsted " country he has just left, 
 and smile a broad grin of satisfaction through it all, but 
 we know that it came only from sheer inward satisfac- 
 tion that " Carlisle " was sticking closely to him, assist- 
 ing him nobly to " Hold the Fort.'' 
 
328 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Accordingly^ at 12 o'clock, midnight, August the 9th, 
 we bade farewell to our friend, Mi'. John B. Main, who 
 Was to remain in London for a few da^'-s longer, and 
 were soon safely quartered in a handsome Pullman 
 sleeper on our way to Liverpool, from thence to embark 
 for home ; and we can assure our readers, though our 
 "Crusade'' had been one of unalloyed pleasure, the 
 friends and acquaintances we had found and made while 
 " strangers in a foreign land " had been unspeakably 
 kind ; the sights we had seen had been interesting, 
 instructive and grand ; yet it was with light and joj'ous 
 hearts on that night we took the train for Liverpool, 
 knowing that, with each revolution of the ponderous 
 driving-wheels of the engine drawing our train, we were 
 constantly nearing those we loved, who were now anx- 
 iously awaiting our return from a foreign shore. Yet, if 
 we could only have pla3'ed " Rip Van Winkle " for 
 about three or four succeeding daj^s to that night — oh ! 
 we would have given, well — we would have given enough 
 to have saved John Sherman the trouble of issuing those 
 " Baby Bonds," and we would n't have cared one solitary 
 cent whether the poor in America had still had their 
 " surplus " tied up in a stocking and buried 'neath an 
 apple tree in the garden or not, for somehow or other 
 " Carlisle " had an intuition he was going to be deathly 
 sea-sick going home, and, when seated in the car, we 
 ventured to state our inward feeling to the Doctor, who 
 sympathized with us to the extent of sajdng, " He 
 prayed heaven we would." 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 329 
 
 You see we did n't need to tell this on ourselves at 
 all", but as each of the " Crusaders " going over who 
 .were sick, awful sick — particularly, the Doctor — when- 
 ever they have seen " Carlisle " since coming home, have 
 stated they have each a ten-column article ready for 
 every paper in the country on" Carlisle's" indisposition, 
 did we fail to tell the whole truth and nothing but the 
 truth ; and as we are alleged co have tormented the life 
 out of all going over, we "' give ourself away," which 
 will be considerabl}^ nearer the truth than for a lot of 
 infuriated Modocs seeking revenge to do. 
 
 Sleeping soundly until 8 A. M., we were awakened in 
 Liverpool, and, strange to saj^ the feeling was stronger 
 than ever tliat we were to pay our tribute to Neptune — 
 the old Coroner'' s Convention — which name qualifies his 
 standing better than any we can at present recall. 
 
 During that Saturda}^ morning we wandered round the 
 city, it raining in torrents all the time, seeing all we could 
 of the principal seaport of England ; but through it all 
 " Carlisle" still brooded over his inevitable fate which 
 he felt was sure to come. Everything went wrong that 
 morning from the start ; we had a surly waiter bring 
 ■our breakfast, in our coffee floated a couple of roaches 
 taking a warm and early bath ; well of course we had a 
 fuss with Mr. Waiter. Liverpool is a city of about 
 500,000 inhabitants, and from its busy appearance 
 resembles more an American than an English city. St. 
 George's Hall is a very handsome Corinthian building, 
 with columns forty-five feet high. It is a city abounding 
 
330 Crusade to Europe 
 
 in scliools of various kinds, and charitable institutions^ 
 and having fine public bath-houses, wash-houses and 
 drinking fountains. The splendid docks of Liverpool,, 
 along the Mersey, including those of Birkenhead, a 
 little town opposite Liverpool, cover four hundred and 
 four acres, and extend five miles on the Liverpool side 
 and two on the Birkenhead side. The amount of capital 
 invested in the docks is about $50,000,000, three-fourths 
 of which is held in Liverpool proper. Nearly one-half 
 of all the exports from England are shipped from the 
 port of Liverpool alone. The total number of vessels 
 that enter the port a year is about sixteen thousand,. 
 and representing a tonnage of about seven million tons 
 in round numbers, and equally divided as to sailing 
 vessels and steamers. In ISH the registered shipping 
 tonnage belonging to the port was 1,866 sailing-vessels 
 of 990,86T tons, and 563 steamers of 412,464 tons. The- 
 improvement of the approach to the river was to be 
 completed in 18Y4, but the landing stage, the most mag- 
 nificent structure in the world of the kind, was burned 
 July 22, 18U. 
 
 Of course as we wandered round, and having ap- 
 petites of which we had no cause for complaint, we 
 became hungry, and it is astonishing what fools persons 
 can make of themselves preparatory to embarking on an 
 ocean voyage, and the Doctor and " Carlisle" were 
 booked in the foregoing party. We wandered into a 
 restaurant and went vigorously to work on some jam 
 tarts, which, of course, are capital for one about to be- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 331 
 
 sea-sick ; then the Doctor, the deep schemer, under the 
 guise of friendship and a lavish freak of generosity, 
 hunted up an apple woman, of whom he purchased some 
 alleged fruit of the orchard, and gave them unto " Car- 
 lisle," and he did eat of them, which was a wonderful 
 addition to the good ready we were then getting on for 
 a day or so following. We will never he convinced of 
 anything else than that we ate about a dozen sixteen- 
 ounce cannon balls shipped from the United States for 
 the Muscovites to kill a few more Turks with, for these 
 good people at that time were enjoying themselves with 
 United States guns and ammunition, and plenty of men 
 to practice on, and we actually presumed them to be ap- 
 ples. 
 
 At 3 P. M. we were on board the little tug and 
 steaming out to the " Bothnia," then anchored in the 
 stream, and shortly after were on board that steamer, 
 and we felt sick then sure. We can say that the " Both- 
 nia" is as far ahead of the " Russia" in everytliing 
 about her as the " Russia'' is ahead of a decent canal 
 boat, for no other line running from New York to Liver- 
 pool dare keep such an affair in their trade as the " Rus- 
 sia," save the line that owns her. Still, we object also 
 somewhat to the " Bothnia ; " while she is a very nne 
 boat, staunch and very nicely fitted up, we object to 
 going down to sleep in the cellar at nights, and we 
 won't take any more "Bothnia" or "Russia"' in ours. 
 Those who want safety can take it, and have all they 
 want ; but if we have the Atlantic to cross again, we 11 
 
332 Crusade to Europe 
 
 take a mighty big risk if tliat were so, in a commou 
 ^ Wliite Star, Inman or Anchor Line boat, thougli the 
 latter-named companies are not companies of long name 
 and many initials. Of Captain McMickan, commanding 
 the " Bothnia," we will say a more efficient and gentle- 
 manly officer treads no deck anywhere than he ; he is an 
 excellent disciplinarian, and his. officers, every one of 
 them, are thorough and efficient in their duties, and 
 everything moves like clock-work. 
 
 But, in the language of the famed orator, Mr. 
 Hughey Dougherty, "we are wandering from the paths 
 of literature," "we are straying from the subject," so 
 let us get back for fear we still neglect to chronicle 
 the fact of " Carlisle's " bed-riddenness. 
 
 About 4 P. M., we heaved anchor, (we heaved, we 
 are sure, half-a-dozen far larger ones than the one 
 which held our ship,) and soon were steaming away 
 towards Queenstown, and half an hour later the 
 " Wyoming," of the Gruion Line, pulled up stakes and 
 followed suit. 
 
 It was a lovely moonlight night, the water smooth 
 as glass, not a " ripple on the wave ;" but from all the 
 calmness of the surroundings, we could not drive away 
 this continual inward remembrance that our doom was 
 approaching. The vessel was crowded. Old folks tod- 
 dled up and down discussing this subject and that, 
 gentlemen with their wives linked arm in arm looked 
 lovingly upon each other, the Doctor and " Carlisle " trod 
 manfully from stem to stern, and from rear to front; 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 
 
 333 
 
 and between seeing those married couples, as we said, 
 looking lovingly upon eacli other, and this confounded 
 inward feeling saying to us, " Carlisle,' you're a 
 gon'ner," to repeat the oratorical Dougherty, " It was 
 healthy." We imagined we were sick then ; however, 
 at abont 10 P. M., we found our way to our room, 
 and save for the then continual beating of the engine, 
 we wonld n't have known we were moving, and so had 
 a good night's rest. The following day, (Sunday) we 
 were anchored in Cork Harbor, to await the arrival of 
 the mail at 4 o'clock, and as we had four hours there, 
 the look of dry land and the spacious " Queen's Hotel " 
 was too much for us, we said to our friend, " Doctor, 
 I'm going to be sick ; I know it — I feel it in my bones 
 plainly. Just let us go once more on to drj^ land 
 and get a good square meal at the ' Queen's ' before 
 we sail." We struck the right chord that time. The 
 fact was, the Doctor felt he was going to be ill also, 
 but wouldn't acknowledge it. We went ashore on the 
 tug and made for the " Queen's." It was Sunday, and 
 the strict observance of that day there forbade their 
 setting out a decent meal, so all we could get was cold 
 meats, some Irish fruit (potatoes,) and lots of grass 
 and hay — otherwise salad. Returning to the steamer, 
 we again heaved anchor, and were about starting "out 
 on the ocean waA^e." The " Wyoming " came up to the 
 mouth of the harbor and lay-to there — we don't know 
 what for, only from pure " cussedness," as we will 
 shortly show. 
 
334 
 
 Crusade to Europe 
 
 Being out of the harbor an hour or so, then — Jeru- 
 salem ! there came up a blow, and the bow of the vessel 
 began to bow most gracefull}^ to the United States 
 ahead, while her stern began to resemble a donkey 
 Avlien some one is getting too familiar with his tail ; 
 and thus it went for an hour or more, when we noticed 
 the " Wyoming " bearing down on us rapidly, every 
 dip of her bow lifting tons of water up and around 
 her, and scattering it in spray, and soon she passed 
 us, just as though we had been at anchor. 
 
 'Twas about this time — the clouds becoming thicker 
 and blacker, the sea becoming rougher — huge waves 
 came rolling and breaking against the strong sides of 
 the steamer, giving her the " Boston dip " badly, while 
 the waves she scooped up at her bow came rolling over 
 her spacious deck, and then " Carlisle " had a dreadful 
 feeling that his pockets had been picked. His hands 
 moved in the vicinity of his watch-chain; it was not 
 gone ; the buttons, too, were all on his vest and coat, 
 but there was an awful feeling of fullness in that 
 section. We observed, also, that our good friend, the 
 Doctor, had a bad attack of imitation about that time 
 too ; he was evidently very nervous about whether his 
 clothes fitted him correctly, or that he had taken an 
 overdose of our friend Stackhouse's garden vegetables, 
 the cucumbers, and they had not agreed with him. 
 Consolingly we looked at each other, sympathetic 
 glances were frequently exchanged ; we inwardly took 
 back all we had said to and about any of our fellow 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 335 
 
 ■" Crusaders " going- over ; we secretly turned our eyes 
 
 heavenward and said, " Never — well, ha very seldom 
 
 we mean, will we ever again poke fun at any " Cru- 
 sader," or any other person, if only forgiven for the 
 past, and let off from this approaching 'onpleasantness." 
 In our deck-chairs, huddled all up, sat we two poor 
 wear}^ pilgrims, feeling as though a Krupp gun had 
 poured its contents against the second lower vest button, 
 iind had there failed to perform its terrible mission of 
 death. On either side of us were fellow-passengers who 
 but a short time before were all pleasant smiles and jo}^- 
 ful conversation, who had now the appearance of having 
 had a severe Caudle lecture — husbands and wives looked 
 as if the}' were on the "outs," bachelors and maidens 
 as though a telegram had reached them telling them of 
 some loved one gone, while occasionally — no, not oc- 
 casionall}^, but very frequently — some idiot would rush 
 to the side of the vessel to look for the " Wj^oming,'' 
 when that boat was long before out of sight, and then 
 because they could n't see her, would get mad foolishly, 
 and expectorate at the innocent sea. 
 
 It was 5:30, and the preparatory dinner bell rang. 
 We remarked to the Doctor ; " say ' Doctor,' what's the 
 use of giving way this way ? Let us brace up and 
 work this thing off." That remark and resolution was 
 fatal. " Carlisle" went down to " prepare" (prepare is 
 good,) and no sooner had we reached our room than 
 that settled it — we dashed up the stairway like a mad- 
 man pursued by a million demons." The vessel was 
 
336 Crusade to Europe 
 
 pitching and rolling terribly now, and we made for our 
 friend the " Doctor," and announced our " preparation' 
 to go to the wheelhouse, and asked the " Doctor" if he 
 also was prepared? He replied, "Carlisle," I'll never 
 leave you ; we've stuck together thus far, I'll stand by 
 you now." We never saw a more accommodating, self- 
 sacrificing man than the Doctor, never — nothing mean 
 about the Doctor, I tell you. 
 
 Linked arm in arm we moved toward the wheelhouse, 
 and to the rear of the same, too, rather more rapidly 
 than gracefully, each with a handkerchief over his nose 
 and mouth, as from our tender natui*es we feared the 
 severe sea breeze would give us a severe cold, of course, 
 but we arrived there only to find all the available railing- 
 space occupied, and a ticket up "Standing Room 
 Only." A few miserable people in the way did n't make 
 any difference at all ; everybody is aristocratic when sea- 
 sick. We transacted such business as called us there, in 
 a highly satisfactory manner, as Old Neptune can file 
 his affidavit to, upon application to his oflSce in that 
 vicinit3\ It is just about at the point where a remarka- 
 bly intelligent and all-wise 3'oung man of our party 
 said he saw the track of a vessel that had crossed our 
 course during the preceding night. We retired to our 
 deck-chairs well satisfied with the manner we carried out 
 our part of the programme ; we seated ourselves, and 
 then the dinner-bell rang. Now, there is nothing on 
 earth or ocean will make a man sicker than he ever was 
 before than to hear the abominable dinner-bell when he 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 337 
 
 is laboring under a state of " un-com-for-ta-ble-ness," 
 and see a lot of healthy-livered gentlemen go down and 
 come np, puffed and gorged, and saucily pick their teeth, 
 and laugh a hearty guffaw ! 
 
 We saw all this, and again took a promenade to the 
 vicinity of the ensign staff, to rehearse our Knights of 
 Submission ritual and signs in secrecy ; but most of the 
 passengers presumed we belonged to some terrible dark 
 lantern society, and had the unmannerly and vulgarly 
 presumption to come poking around just when we 
 wanted to be alone, and though we gazed out longingly 
 at the turbulent waters and quoted poetry, the pass- 
 engers on board that vessel insisted on coming where we 
 were, and standing round against that railing, and not. 
 one of them had their backs to it, and strange too, all 
 were weeping — at the eyes, nose and earthly tabernacle 
 of the mouth, particularly the lattei". "We felt sorry for 
 them all, for the sad and solemn sight was more than we 
 could possibl}'' withstand, in fact we were weeping 
 harder than any of them ourselves. Oh ! if we had 
 onl}^ been just then on the " Kaiser Wilhelm" going up 
 the Rhine, or we would willingly undergo an initiatioa 
 in the K, of S.; and then we just reckoned that, being 
 now about fifty miles out from Ireland, we only had 
 about thirty-one hundred and fifty more to go, and that 
 thought was a pleasing one. 
 
 Finally we retired to our little cots in the cellar 
 attic, and soon were sound asleep, oblivions of all we 
 had just passed through. Of course, our readers will 
 
 v 
 
338 Crusade to Europe 
 
 'iiever infer that we were sea-sick. We fear we inay 
 liave given the impression now tliat we have written it, 
 "that from the frequenc}^ of onr visits to the British 
 ensign, we strayed tliither witli tlie intention of making 
 -ourselves and the ship lighter and the ocean fuller ; but 
 we beg not to be mistaken or misunderstood, we 
 ■only went there to compare that liorrible red flag to 
 our beautiful starry blue field and its stripes — the 
 most beautiful flag of the grandest nation on earth. 
 
 Through the still watches of the night we had 
 the cheerful habit of getting down from our shelves 
 and gazing intently at the fearfully and wonderfully 
 made and soldered tin pails. We could see no 
 patentable improvement that could be placed on them, 
 and so retired, only to awaken to flnd the vexed 
 question still troubling our minds ; and it was cer- 
 tainly strange that the same thought came upon us 
 both, and singular that we both came down to ex- 
 amine the inner side; and from the manner in which 
 our minds were troubled on that night, we are still 
 satisfied that somewhere or somehow we could have 
 made an improvement on them, had we continued to 
 devote our time more steadily to the study thereof. 
 For three days such were the proceedings ; one day 
 we were all sitting up in a little place we had chris- 
 tened the "Rookery," looking as though our lower 
 jaws had dropped in some unexplainable manner 
 when we heard a crack, and over the ship's bow, 
 smokestack and all, came about a ton or so of water, 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 339 
 
 and we received a batli which laid the Colonel's on the 
 " Russia" completely in the shade. The}^ had on board 
 some very fine ginger snaps, and one day we overheard 
 tile Doctor say, " Steward, bring me a few ginger 
 snaps, will you, please? " He brought him t — w — o, 
 (2,) and we heard the Doctor, as he lifted the two 
 innocent little snaps, say " Yes, that's the kind ; the 
 samples are all right, now bring along your stock." 
 
 But all things have an end ; long and weary seem- 
 ingly as was our homeward passage, we had a pleas- 
 ant time of it, with pleasant people on board, and 
 the first three days of our voyage over, we had the 
 remainder truly delightful. 
 
 The " Wyoming" had arrived and preceded us up 
 to IsTew York city, and disembarked her passengers 
 and baggage some twelve or fourteen hours prior to 
 us. Here, through the courtesy and kindness of our 
 friend, E. M. Jenkins, Esq., we were met by a young 
 man sent by him to help us through the Custom 
 House, and without any detention we were passed and 
 going it alone to the Pennsylvania Railroad Depot. 
 And twenty-four hours after our arrival in New York 
 we were with our friends and families in the good old 
 city of Allegheny, and the " Second Crusade of Alle- 
 gheny Commandery,'' so far as we were concerned, 
 was finished. 
 
 We take great pleasure, before closing, in annexing 
 hereto a letter received from our Captain-General, who, 
 with some ten or more separated from the main body 
 
340 Crusade to Europe 
 
 of the Commanclery at Geneva, and compassed what 
 was known as the " Italian Section," they, under the 
 care of a guide proceeding from Geneva and Swiss 
 scener}^, going over the Alps into sunny Italy ; and the 
 following letter, condensed as it is, gives some slight 
 idea of the beauties of that land of the fig and olive. It 
 is addressed to two Sir Knights who preceded him home, 
 and though perhaps a breach of faith to produce it all, 
 yet we believe always in telling the whole story. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 341 
 
 & 
 
 ^eftief^ Mo. 9. 
 
 Extracts from Letter -written by the Captain-General, 
 "W. C. Moreland, Esq., "while doing the Italian Sec- 
 tion, -with part of the Crusaders. — Description of 
 Scenery and Art. 
 
 Florence, Italy, September 2, 18*78. 
 My Beloved Goiivpanions : 
 
 (^ AM in the heat, under the sky, and surrounded by 
 the fruit of Italy. With all these luxuries I do not 
 forget the pilgrims of the west. The Colonel, Ful- 
 lerton and Clinton are quietly reposing around me, look- 
 ing for all the world like the " Three Graces," while I, 
 sober and wakeful, sit down to tell you at least that we 
 are not dead. 
 
 The Colonel insists, however, that after a person 
 has written up an " Itinerary," to prepare which he must 
 work all night, he ought to have some little rest. He 
 insists that his is the hardest part of the task, and this 
 morning reported that the work had been completed up 
 to twelve o'clock last night. He says his hardest work 
 was in Venice, arising from the fact that all the streets 
 being water he found it somewhat difficult to walk 
 around. I can assure you, however, he accomplished 
 the duties devolving upon him. He is now engaged in 
 
342 Crusade 'io Europe 
 
 his leisure hours in studying tlie liistory and biograpliy 
 of the streets of this " Queen of the Adriatic." It puz- 
 zles him to know whether they belong to the Roman- 
 esque, the Byzantum or Rennaissance st3^1e ; or whether 
 they are not a style of their own. He insists the town 
 has never been laid out " on the square,'' or in any other 
 special way. I have implicit faith in the Colonel, and 
 know he will yet solve the problem ; meantime he rests 
 like a lamb and snores like a virgin. * * * 
 
 I can assure you the compass of sight-seeing, pleasure 
 and enjoyment has been completely boxed by us. Sober, 
 steady and sedate we have gone about the work and 
 mission of the trip, regardless of all side issues and 
 those little things which are the annoyance of small 
 minds. (He here alludes to the Doctor, undoubtedly.) 
 Pensive and particular we wander about, as pure as 
 lilies and as meek as bare-footed monks. Disdaining all 
 concealment we move to our allotted business with pre- 
 cision, regularity and cheerfulness. We are as choice 
 and select in our habits and tastes as a band of vestal 
 virgins. We run the risk of being called haughty, and 
 proud and selfish ; but what of that? Doth not a good 
 thing suffer persecution ? And are we not all good and 
 correspondingly happy ? Methinks I hear thee smile at 
 the base vanity. " Smile on, ye scoffers at the pure and 
 the good ! " If you do wonder at crime, think not that 
 we are base plebeians and low-born serfs, '^ay ! by my 
 foot, rather are we " Cook's men," loyally and lovingij'' 
 followino; the noble duke " who leadeth us." Fortune 
 
op^ Allegheny Commandery. 343 
 
 favors the brave and fortune favors us. We scoff at the 
 poor and lowly ones who suffer on in an eight by ten, 
 whilst the chosen ones roam the broad world o'er. We 
 pity the poor. (We do not know what the writer of this 
 letter had against the Doctor, to peg away at him in that 
 style.) 
 
 But, my beloved and devoted companions, you will 
 wonder what all this has to do with a trip on foreign 
 shores, and how you are to extract any benefit from this 
 nonsense. More seriouslj^ addressing myself to the 
 business on hand, let me say I have sighed for an hour 
 in which to write you a note. We have thought of 3'ou, 
 and talked about you every day since parting company, 
 and at each stopping point I contemplated writing a 
 word, but found almost every moment engrossed by 
 special business. 
 
 I need hardly say to you that our trip has been as a 
 "feast of fat things." I do not think it possible for 
 persons to liave more pleasure and profit on a trip -than 
 we have had. At each place of moment we. have been 
 able to secure a good guide, and as a result have seen 
 every point of interest in the places visited. Our jour- 
 ney through Italy has been a succession of delights. 
 This laud of the fig and olive deserves ail the praise, 
 poet and painter have given it. 
 
 The plains of Lombardy and Yenezia are a panorama 
 of beaiTty — wide extending, level and fertile— you are 
 greeted at every point with rare and rich charms, and 
 besides this it teems with a history that seems like a 
 romance. Its lakes are charming, picturesque and 
 
344 Crusade to Europe 
 
 inviting. Como, Lugano and Maggiore are complete. 
 The calm, blue waters, the commanding hills, the exqui- 
 site foliage, and the beautiful villas and villages, make a 
 landscape of rich variety and profusion, and to add to 
 the luxury of the physical j^ou have a sunset of gorgeous 
 magnificence. The impressions made upon my mind are 
 indestructible and wonderfully sweet. Then, too, you 
 have the cities, full of life, activity and culture, and with 
 tliat wealtii which gives an air of easy independence. 
 
 To crown this, antiquity and the present join in con- 
 tributing the wealth and very prodigality of their genius 
 to these great cities, to make them the wonder and 
 admiration of mankind. Here art, science, literature 
 and labor have made their offerings, and found their 
 homes. Amidst the decay, the struggles, and the 
 vicissitudes of the past much still remains to mark the 
 glory and renown of the past. It is impossible to 
 contemplate these homes without a veneration which 
 amounts to a passion. 
 
 I have ceased to marvel at the people clinging to 
 their homes, although the very act means for them toil, 
 labor, often penur^^, without the hope of reward or 
 independence. There is so much to lure, charm and 
 soothe that toil loses its pain and labor its aching. 
 Besides all this there is a history complete and wonder- 
 ful of this Latin race. The fairest fields have ever and 
 anon been plowed up with fierce contention. Grim 
 visaged war has been a companion through the centuries. 
 Ambition has held high carnival, and the worst passions 
 of men have found Italj- a home for freest indulgence 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. . 345 
 
 Solferino and Areole are but mile posts indicating 
 the march. From the day when Hannibal met and 
 defeated Scipio, down to the day of the peace of Yilla- 
 franca, Italy has been the home and empire of war. Is 
 it not strange that all hope, energy, liberty, literature 
 and art had not long since quitted her fields ? And is it 
 not a wonder that in the face of this bitter and relent- 
 less warring, there should remain a single vestige of her 
 past glory and the brilliant achievements of her sons ? 
 
 Yet, so it is. With all this bloody past, Italy is 
 still the guardian watcher over the arts of the past, 
 and the precious productions of the ages. Music, paint- 
 ing and statuary have made their home in this fair land, 
 and embellished it with all that taste and culture could 
 do. 
 
 I have been absolutely enraptured, as I have been 
 privileged to walk through the galleries, and visit the 
 homes sanctified b3'^ the cultivated genius of the past. 
 Then, too, I have felt an admiration for the " old 
 church," such as I never had before, as the absolute 
 fact presented itself, that amidst all that decay, de- 
 bauchery, licentiousness, and wrongs of her past 
 histor}', she alone has been the friend and custodian 
 of art. Say what we please, and think as we ma}^, 
 3'et the truth is, that but for the taste, fidelity and 
 liberality of the Catholic Church, the world would 
 not to-day have a trace or vestige of Raphael, Angelo, 
 Canova, Titian, Rubens, Tan Dyck or Tinterretto. 
 
34^ Crusade to Europe 
 
 False to a thousand things, and guilty of unmeas- 
 ured wrong and duplicity in the eyes of history, she 
 has remained ever true and faithful in keeping and 
 perpetuating these great names and still greater works. 
 Her domes, her aisles, naves, niches and vaults are 
 filled with the master work of these master minds. 
 Let us remember, too, that this church not only encour- 
 aged and compensated the labor of this divine genius, 
 but she afforded the only possible avenue for its de- 
 velopment. Great souls will ever treasure and praise 
 the faith, zeal, judgment and liberality which resulted 
 in perpetuating these triumphs of the human mind, then 
 too, the glorious splendor of the churches overwhelms- 
 the mind. 
 
 You have seen the Cathedral at Antwerp, and bowed 
 your heads over the matchless painting of Rubens, yet 
 that Church, with its rich treasures, is but an epitome 
 of that which we have seen almost every day. What 
 the Alps are to the phj^sical world, these churches are 
 in architectural beauty, completeness and finish. 
 
 The Church of St. Marco, in Yenice, is supreme in 
 the profusion of its stores, and the completeness of its 
 decorations. The entire floor is one continuous mosaic. 
 The work and wealth of a century have been contributed 
 to adorn and beautify this structure. With her por- 
 phyry, and her pillars of pure alabaster, brought from 
 the Temple of Solomon, her wooden work and bronze 
 stolen from the Church of St. Sophia, in Constanti- 
 nople, (the church of Constantine,) her bronze horses- 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 347 
 
 surmovintiwg tlie dome, and her stained-glass windows, 
 centuries old, you have a sight and a gem which 
 dazzles and bewilders. Then comes Milan, with her 
 towering and colossal Cathedral, and Strassburg, and 
 Florence, each in its turn contributing to increase your 
 amazement and strengthen your admiration. 
 
 Another thing is, they indicate every style of archi- 
 tecture known to or devised by man, just as the paint- 
 ings which they contain mark the progress or decline of 
 art, and faithfully represent the style and characteristics 
 of each school. But I might write you for hours in this 
 train, and it would only result in increasing your desire 
 to see without really interesting you as to what I have 
 seen. But what a grand thing it is to be privileged to 
 travel a little ; my trip has been water to a parched 
 tongue. Doubtless it will increase my interest in study- 
 ing and reading, and will largely embellish what I have 
 
 Tȣ1Q /N Sji ^ ^ 5jC SjS ^ 
 
 In Venice we had the great pleasure of visiting the 
 palace of the Doges ; the prison, the senate, the rooms 
 of the Council of Three and Ten, and then the " Bridge 
 of Sighs." For hours we wandered through this 
 strange, terrible building, and recalled the gloomy history 
 and the bloody deeds wrapped in the walls of a building 
 which had once been the home of men who were " faith- 
 ful among the faithless found," 
 
 From this point we started on a general tour, visiting 
 the home of Lucretia Borgia, Tasso, Othello, Desde- 
 mona, the office and warehouse of Shylock, the tombs 
 
348 Crusade to Europe 
 
 of Canova and Titian, the palaces of the rich, the furni- 
 ture of Marie Antoinette, — stucco work unsurpassed for 
 elegance and completeness — the grand Canal, the Rialto, 
 and a hundred other points about which I hope we will 
 be able to talk when " Johnny comes marching home." 
 
 From Venice we came here, on our way, plowing 
 through the Apennines and crossing the water slied of 
 the Adriatic and the Tyrrhean seas, and having withal an 
 elegant ride. To-morrow we expect to leave for Rome, 
 when we anticipate a grand time roaming round the 
 " Ancient City," amid its antiquities and arts. "^ * 
 
 I have written you this letter jointly because of want 
 of time to write you separately. I hope it may be 
 acceptable to you as coming from one who is 
 Faithfully yours, 
 
 W. C. MORELAND. 
 
 The Italian Section of the Commandery were some 
 four weeks longer out than the others, and sailed from 
 Liverpool on September 28th, arriving safe, hearty and 
 well in New York on October 6th, thus completing, with 
 this party finally home, the entire programme as laid 
 down for Allegheny Commandery's Second " Crusade." 
 
OK Allegheny Commandery. " 349 
 
 (^j^EFORE concluding this work, liumbly as it is 
 done, and hastily prepared as it has been, allow 
 us to look over hurriedly, our party, our work, 
 the success of the " Crusade '' and the admirable arrange- 
 ments made for us, and under which we have traveled. 
 
 First, let us remark, that any mention of any of the 
 party of "18, made in any of these pages, has been in the 
 very best and kindest of spirit and humor as towards 
 each individual member of the " Crusading Pilgrims " 
 without one single exception, we hold no other thought 
 than kindness and good feeling, and if mentioned herein, 
 the intention is far from any motive to jeer or wound, 
 but as stated in the full intent of kindly feeling. 
 
 Of Eminent Sir Lee S. Smith, the Eminent Com- 
 mander of the Commandery during the pilgrimage, 
 he is so well known to the citizens of Allegheny County, 
 that no word of ours can make him the better 
 acquainted with our home readers. We can cheerfully 
 and honestly pay to him this tribute, a heart full of 
 sympathy, encouragement and good will, a character 
 sterling in all of its qualities, a companion in travel, 
 social, jovial and genial, without a trait of doing away 
 from home that which he would not do while at home, 
 
350 • Crusade to Europe 
 
 and in liim was the authority of conducting the " Cru- 
 sade " justly placed, as its Eminent Commander, fitted 
 in every way for the high position he then enjoyed. 
 
 We shall never forget our handsome, stately new- 
 made friend Eminent Sir John Amsden, of Versailles, 
 Kentucky, the Generalissimo of the " Crusade." A 
 friend first, last and all the time ; affable and pleasant, a 
 merry twinkle in his eye and always a cheerful good 
 word for every person ; and, although old Father Time 
 lias slightly powdered his hair with the frosts of sixty 
 winters, yet we trust many, many years will our good 
 friend be spared to think over the " Crusade '' of "78. 
 
 Our Captain-General, Sir "William C. Moreland, a 
 gentleman whose name is as familiar to every one in 
 Western Pennsylvania, as is the President of the United 
 States, with a reputation wide-spread over the entire 
 good old Keystone State, in whose company we were 
 closely allied on our tour, is a companion whose gentle- 
 manly bearing, kind-heartedness and scholastic require- 
 ments shall ever be remembered with the greatest 
 pleasure. Nothing was proposed but in what he would 
 most heartily concur, and all his actions utterly and to- 
 tally debarred from an3'thing appertaining to the selfish. 
 With his ever ready flow of unexcelled language and 
 oratory, with his beautiful metaphors and full rounded 
 periods, carrying the hearts of all his listeners with him, 
 did he reflect great credit upon the party, and we are 
 sure a never-to-be-forgotten share upon himself. His 
 companionship will be remembered always as one of the 
 most pleasant features of the pilgrimage. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 351 
 
 Two better, truer Sir Knights or gentlemen never 
 entered an Asylum than Sirs William Fullerton and 
 Edward F. Clinton, of Black Hawk, Colorado. Meeting 
 as entire strangers their many good qualities endeared 
 them to all, and we are certain the impression made by 
 these two gentlemen will be long, pleasant and bright in 
 the memories of those who were their fellow travelers. 
 
 Need we refer to our life-long friend Em. Sir Wm. H. 
 Slack, the worthy Prelate of Allegheny Commandery, a 
 gentleman we can almost remember from infancy, and 
 with years of intimacy and friendship passing over our 
 heads, we have never either by thought, word or deed 
 known him to be other than a genuine man, the highest 
 title possible to be given to the highest work of God's 
 creation. Neither by word or action have we ever 
 known him say a solitary unkind word concerning auy- 
 body, but a good word for every one, behind their back 
 as before their face, which in the seeming perversity of 
 to-day, is a rare exception. Our years of intimacy and 
 friendship were to the writer only more and more 
 enhanced b}^ our fellowship on this tour, and our sincere 
 trust is that he may long continue to go in and out of 
 Alleghen}^ Commandery, as well as in his private walks 
 of life, a worthy citizen, an honorable gentleman, cher- 
 ished by all that know him. 
 
 We take special pleasure in referring to Sir J. D. 
 Landis, of Coatesville, Pa., on his first European trip, 
 and as our first acquaintance commenced with this 
 " Crusade," with abundant opportunities to prove a man 
 as the old saying is, " by living with him for a while," 
 
352 Crusade to Europe 
 
 we think of him as a sterling young man in every 
 particular, every word betokening him a thorough gen- 
 tleman and genial friend. 
 
 As happy a recollection ns we have of any in the 
 pai'ty is of the person with whom perhaps we never 
 would have become acquainted, had it not been for his 
 " bath at sea," a person to whom everything the opposite 
 of true manhood was an utter stranger, one in whom 
 every reliance could be placed, one in whom every 
 action was cool and deliberate ; one in whom the 
 instinct of a gentleman was plainly written on his 
 countenance ; one in whom was straight-forwardness ; 
 one in whom was honor, bright, pure and simple ; one 
 in whom the many admirable qualities he possessed 
 were frequent marks of admiration, and one whose con- 
 tinuous affabilitj^, geniality and true friendship will ever 
 be remembered as an evening star in the constellation of 
 happy events, daily occurring on our " Crusade " — we 
 refer to our friend Colonel Samuel McConihe, of the 
 United States arni}^, with a record as bright in his 
 country's service as his social qualities on such a fur- 
 lough as this; and we do not say one word here for the 
 mere sake of saying it, but from personal inquiry at the 
 proper place, the fountain-head of reliable information, 
 and for this reason we take special pleasure in paying 
 -this little tribute to one well deserving the name of man, 
 soldier, friend. 
 
 We can speak only in the kindest of terms of Sir 
 James C. Rafferty, who, poor fellow, suffered fearfully 
 on our outward passage, not from sea-sickness so much 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 353 
 
 as from general debility, and when leaving the steamer 
 at Ireland, was a perfect skeleton, but thanks to good 
 care, kind friends round and about him he was soon 
 made hale and hearty, and no better person was enrolled 
 on the Roster of the Commandery than the young 
 gentleman we haA^e just named. 
 
 Most agreeably surprised were we in our worthy Sir 
 Knights J. Fred Beilstein and James Milliken, who 
 proved to be the most agreeable of traveling companions, 
 ready at all times to lend their aid to anything condu- 
 cive to the pleasure of others, and better hearted men 
 have 3^et to tread this earth than these two Sir Knights. 
 
 We can speak with pleasure of Sirs George S. Eyster, 
 O. H. Brusie, Robert J. Baxter, A. 0. Baker, Jesse L. 
 Stackhouse, (now deceased,) Edward L. Schroder and 
 George S. Haines ; all agreeable and pleasant, though 
 but one was really a member of Allegheny Commander}'-, 
 the remainder being from foreign Commanderies, that is, 
 foreign to Allegheny County, 
 
 Em. Sir Robert Morris, L. L. D., is well known 
 all over the United States as a writer and poet of note,, 
 his Masonic lectures and writings being almost in every 
 library in this country and British domains. 
 
 We were never more agreeably surprised, nor did we 
 have more pleasure, than when our old time friend 
 William M. Herron, M. D., was booked with the " Cru- 
 saders " for the European pilgrimage, though he made 
 up his mind within only twenty- four hours of the 
 
 w 
 
554 
 
 Crusaue to Europe 
 
 departure of the Commandery from home, which neces- 
 sitated considerable lively telegraphing to secure him 
 and his two daughters accommodations with the party. 
 Our acquaintance with Dr. Herron dates back with that 
 of Prof. Slack, to earliest remembrance and infancy, and 
 aside from his skillful hand at many times bringing us 
 through the days of illness, his own social and sterling 
 qualities would endear him to any who may have the 
 good fortune to claim his acquaintance. We have ever 
 known him as a friend, and going etway from home 
 almost a total physical wreck from overwork in the pur- 
 suit of his profession, at which he has the honor to stand 
 at the head, none hailed with more true and sincere 
 delight, that return of good health and ph^'-sical rebuild- 
 ing, of which he stood greatly in need, than do we, and 
 we are certain in the thought that his trip to Europe 
 was simply taking a re-lease for an extension of life. 'No 
 better man lives than our good friend Dr. Wm. M. Herron. 
 
 Another member of the medical profession with us 
 was Dr. A. Dudley, of Salem, Mass. ; a gentleman though 
 we had never had the pleasure of meeting before, was 
 one we were pleased to meet then, and we shall always 
 remember our vis-a-vis at the table on board ship, who 
 stood by the Colonel, the writer and one or two others, 
 when all the rest of our comrades had deserted their posts. 
 
 Pleasant corners in memory's room have been made 
 for Messrs. William E. Corey, E. W. Parker, Jacob 
 Laucks, Frank Heath, and H. C. Levis, of whom we 
 have the most pleasant recollections. 
 
•OF Allegheny Commandery. 355 
 
 We may be considered guilty of most ungallaiit 
 acts in going over the names of tlie gentleman portion 
 of the roster first, but we alwaj'-s hold our best card 
 to the very last in all things, so now let us speak for 
 a moment of the female portion of the body, the roses 
 and flowers of creation — the ladies of our party, ten 
 of whom accompanied the Commandery on her pilgrim- 
 age. It would seem almost incredible, but it was none 
 the less the truth, that from the time of leaving the 
 Union Depot in Pittsburgh, until the time of our separa- 
 tion, moving rapidly as we did, up in the morning- 
 early, making close connections with trains and steamers, 
 not one single moment of detention to one or any 
 occurred through or b}' one of the ladies ; never from 
 one came a word of complaint as to weariness or being 
 tired, but from one and all in the morning came a 
 happy smile and a cheerful " Good morning," while at 
 night came as cheerfully a pleasant " Good night," 
 and to each one individually of the ladies, as well as 
 collectively, do we attribute much of the pleasure en- 
 joj'Cd by us while in their compan3\ 
 
 If we have spoken in words, sincere as they are, 
 praiseworthy' of the gentlemen, we can not sa.y too 
 much of the lady portion of our little band. More 
 kind persons than our fellow citizens, Mrs, William H. 
 Slack and Mrs. E. C. Rafferty, could hardly possibly be 
 found, who were ever as ready with needle, thread and 
 buttons for us, as though under the protecting wings 
 of our own dear mothers, while any little headache or 
 
356 Crusade to Europe 
 
 other trifling ailment were as carefully asked for as 
 though at home, and now we claim we have about 
 half a dozen mothers, which is we think highly prefer- 
 able to having none. 
 
 As we write these pages, the cheerful smiles of the 
 good-natured Mrs. Mifflin and her beautiful and charm- 
 ing daughter, Mrs. Frohock, are as distinct in our mind's 
 eye as though we were shaking hands with each, and 
 saying emphatically, " How do you do ? " " How are 
 you to-day ? " 
 
 One of the most indefatigable travelers and tourists 
 we have ever had the pleasure of seeing — for we 
 delight in seeing a good traveler, particularly a lady — 
 was our pleasant and entertaining young lady friend, 
 Miss Ella M. Carr, of Jersey City, who evidently left 
 home, not for the empty sake of saying on her return, 
 '' I have been to Europe," but for a visit of profit, 
 pleasure and instruction, Though she knew not, care- 
 fully we noticed her mind ran not upon things pi-esent, 
 dress and gossip of the day. We cannot recall an 
 instance of overhearing the latest sensation in Jersey 
 City, the newest romance of some belle or beau, but 
 we did observe she had the knack of seeing every- 
 thing worth}- of seeing on such a trip, and none 
 would return home with more knowledge of historical 
 places and things, that will prove interesting to her 
 friends, and a pleasure and satisfaction to herself, than 
 would Miss Carr. She went to see, not to talk ; was not 
 thoroughly posted in everybody's business, but knowing 
 
OF Allegheny CommXndery. 357 
 
 her own fullj^, she profited every day by laying away 
 in the granary of the mind some fresh grain of thought 
 that will always prove fresh and useful. Such a person 
 it is a pleasure to meet and to see. In like manner 
 might we also speak of Miss Susan M, Leverich, whose 
 mind was a perfect storehouse of historical knowl- 
 edge ; for having never before been to the European 
 side of old Atlantic, from her book knowledge of its 
 topography, its castles, its origin, its date, she ap- 
 peared as familiar with the ground over which we 
 had trod as though it were her daily walk in former 
 jT^ears. 
 
 Mrs. Schroder, upon her bridal tour is pleasantly 
 associated with others, and we shall particularly re- 
 member her for one remarkable thing in a lady, a 
 precious gift we are prone to call it, that of silence 
 on points belonging to herself, and proves silence to 
 be golden. This will appear all the more remarka- 
 ble that though on her bridal trip, married but a 
 day or so prior to leaving New York, so completely 
 was the fact ignored by herself and husband, that 
 not for several weeks after our leaving home was 
 the fact of a bridal pair in our party known, and 
 then it became known only through the merest accident. 
 This of itself will speak more for the good sense and 
 character of the lady than words we might choose 
 to state here in reference to her. She and her good 
 husband have our best wishes for many years of 
 pleasant association, and may the fire built upon, the 
 
558 Crusa.de to Europe 
 
 altar of connubial bliss, started when Allegheny 
 Oommandery made her second European Crusade, ever 
 burn brightly in the fireside of happiness and pros- 
 perity, the flames constantly fanned by the power of 
 Love, with the date of July, 1818, as the time the 
 spark commenced to ignite the fire which shall ever 
 glow mildly upon the hearth-stone of their wedded 
 career. 
 
 Three young ladies in our part}', merry and spark- 
 ling, full of the sunshine and beauty of youth, were 
 the Misses Mary and Nannie B. Herron, and Miss 
 Lillian B. Patterson, each of whom, with their pleasant 
 natures and beaming countenances, contributed in a 
 large degree to the pleasure of their fellow com- 
 panions. As we trod the deck of the steamer, sat 
 down with them at the tables of the hotels, as we 
 sat with them in the same places of worship, or as 
 we gracefully as possible lifted our hats to them 
 upon the streets in foreign climes, we were constantl}'- 
 reminded of home, and what is true of the others, 
 is true also of them ; nothing but a pleasant coun- 
 tenance from each greeted all with whom they were 
 acquainted. And since we arrived home, one of the 
 young ladies has become the loving and estimable young 
 wife of a most estimable young man; we consider 
 it one of our greatest pleasures in this place, as a 
 fellow-traveler and " Crusader," to extend to that 
 young lady our sincere and hearty congratulations 
 upon her entrance into our ranks, viz: among the 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 359 
 
 married portion of society, and from our heart we 
 earnestly wish tliat the very smallest portion of 
 earth's sorrows allotted to poor humanity, may be 
 the share of she and her husband, that having kissed 
 the morning of happiness by the advent from the 
 days of maiden, into the more responsible years of 
 wifehood, that her happiness shall be bright, pure, 
 clear and sparkling as the rivulet, flowing from its 
 cool mountain home, and as the dew-drop upon the 
 leaf glistening in the glad morning sun, which shall 
 never dim nor fade awa}^ is the true and heartfelt 
 wish of " Carlisle." Having spoken thus of our 
 traveling companions, let us look for a moment at 
 the admirable arrangements under which we traveled 
 while on our " Crusade." 
 
 TRAVELING ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE PARTY. 
 
 As stated in the very earliest portion of this work, 
 our arrangements were made by E. M. Jenkins, Esq., 
 a fellow frater of Allegheny Commandery, a gentle- 
 man of large experience in traveling matters, who 
 through hard efforts built up one of the most gigantic 
 tourist agencies ever seen in the United States, whose 
 business with one railroad in America amounted to 
 hundreds of thousands of dollars per annum, to him 
 we are largely indebted for the completeness and 
 successful carrying out of the programme laid down 
 at the start, now let us see what this embraced and 
 what a convenience his system for us was. Stepijing 
 into his office we pay our expenses for the tour, 
 
Crusade to Europe 
 
 whicli covers everything, from the commencement to 
 the end of the Crusade. We carry no tickets ; on 
 our arrival at Queenstown we were met by Mr. C. 
 P. Cooper, who was to be our guide in Ireland ; we 
 were spoken to by no j^erson, never handled our 
 baggage, paid no attention whatever to it, and it was 
 a singular thing to us at first on our arrival at the 
 Victoria Hotel, in Cork, to be asked by the Hotel 
 manager, " what is your name, sir '( " " Carlisle, 
 sir," we replied. "Show Mr. -Carlisle' up to No. 
 68, John ! " the clerk would say, and being shown 
 thither, there on a little table stood our baggage, 
 all ready to be unlocked, and the same proceeding- 
 would occur on leaving the Hotel ; simpl}'- turning 
 the key in the lock, we would go away, never speak- 
 ing of baggage to anyone, and that would be the 
 last we would see of it until the next place was 
 reached, when would come the same question, " your 
 name, sir?" "'Carlisle,' sir!" "Show Mr. 'Carlisle' 
 to No. 11, Mike!" and there in No. 11 stood our 
 baggage again, the same as ever. We could not un- 
 derstand this for quite a little while, but the modus 
 operandi is this : the hotel proprietors are all fur- 
 nished with printed lists of the party, with the date the 
 party will arrive there, whether single or married, and 
 each name assigned to a room, so that immediately 
 on ' entering a hotel and hearing your name he knows 
 precisely where to locate you. Then you have no bills 
 to pa^^, you walk into your room, to the table, and 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 361 
 
 out from it, and no one says, "whither goest thou?" 
 You have no biclcerings witli hotel proprietors as to 
 the size of your bill, and extortionate charges. One 
 most fortunate thing, and we think the greatest bless- 
 ing in it all, was the fact of having nothing to do 
 with porters, particularly in Ireland, and we looked 
 on with the most intense satisfaction conceivable, at 
 the poor fellows lugging around immense Saratogas 
 and two-story mansard roof trunks, knowing we had 
 not to give them a solitary cent. 
 
 Speaking of Mr. Cooper, we may say, and in 
 which we will be heartily seconded by anyone and 
 all of our party, that in every respect he is a thorough 
 gentleman ; never out of humor, understanding his 
 business thoroughly, no troubles under his supervision 
 occurring, nor confusion existing under his care ; at 
 least, if any did occur, none save himself ever knew 
 of them. He cared for all in general, saw personally 
 to every little wish and comfort, and made every, 
 if any dissatisfaction occurred, clear and smooth, and 
 we pledge him the word of a Knight of Submission, 
 that if he will come out and see America, " we will 
 make it pleasant for him." It was the handiest pos- 
 sible kind of arrangement, to go in and out, pa^'ing 
 no bills, simply picking up j^our cane and umbrella, 
 putting on j^our duster and leaving the town, only 
 to proceed to the next, where it was ditto, ditto. 
 No rail road conductor to bother you ; no shouting 
 in your eai'S "Tickets! tickets, gentlemen ! " but just 
 follow your leader. 
 
362 Crusade to Europe 
 
 ^ 
 
 At every railway station were in Avaiting for us 
 waggonettes, or jaunting cars or omnibuses, in which 
 we were conveyed to and from the hotels and depots. 
 It would be a particularly fine convenience for ladies 
 traveling alone, unaccustomed to the usages, language 
 and moneys of foreign countries, if only for the one 
 thing of avoiding the pestering and abominations of 
 the most consummate begging to be seen anywhere 
 in the world. If a man lifts his liat, nods, winks at 
 you, moves your satchel an inch or so, it is expected 
 that from a sixpence to a half-crown will be forth- 
 coming at once. But if a person makes the trip two 
 or three times, they become thoroughly hardened to 
 the pitiful wailings of these scoundrels, for b}^ some 
 instinctive means, we think, by the use of some one 
 of the five senses, or all combined, they just know 
 when to let a man alone, or for how much they 
 can bleed him. 
 
 By the arrangements, also, we had ponies in waiting' 
 for us, to convey the party through the Grap of Dunloe, 
 while the party taking in the Italian section of tlie 
 tour, had ponies and donkeys in waiting for them 
 wherever necessary. Not one fault could be found 
 in any of the arrangements, so completely and ad- 
 mirably prepared by our friend, Mr. Jenkins. 
 
 We do not think this work would be complete 
 without the including a letter, received by the writer, 
 showing how the order of Knights of Submission 
 had taken deep root in the mind of, at least, one 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 363 
 
 of our . fellow-countrymen, subsequent to ^ the pitbli- 
 cation of its noble principles and precepts. This we 
 give verbatim, and the answer given to the same. 
 It is dated : 
 
 Break Neck, Buller Co., Pa., February loth, 1879. 
 Dee7- Sir: 
 
 i hev red yure letters by Mr. Carlisle, an liked Them very 
 Mutch, espesily the last One givin an Account of That one hundreth 
 Degree, i hev always wanted To join the masons But hev not done 
 so fur 2 Reasons, 
 
 1st. they Charge two Mutch and i Am poor. 
 
 2d. my Folks are All covenanters and u. p.'s, and they are All 
 Opposed to cecret OrganisaShuns they Cant get in. 
 
 3d. i hev Always been affraid They wouldn't hev me. Every 
 time they hev got an organisashun in Imitation of The masons, I hev 
 sad thot i would Try and get In, but hev Always Put it off Till they 
 got Started, then they charged 2 Mutch, and Black Baled 2, so i Am 
 still out. 
 
 Ever since you Spoke of The new order last month i hev ben 
 anxis to join, and Ben wating for The next number of youre Paper 
 to see All about it, and After readin' All about it, i think It Is just 
 , The thing i want. 
 
 As you dont sa whoo is grand mogul Now, — whether That big 
 Night Mr. lee, or who— an As you hev the Biggest milatery Title, i 
 write to you fur infurmation; an You will Oblige me 2 Anser The 
 following questions : 
 
 1st. Who Is the officers Now, an do You intend to start uther 
 Branches of the order. 
 
 2nd. how Mutch do You charge fur i or more ; an would The 
 1st wun be the grand Mogul Of the new Branch? 
 
 3rd. how would we hev to do — Come to allegheny to Get the 
 degrees, Or would yure grand Mogul come Out hear if We paid him. 
 
 4th. do you hev a Printed Book 2 Tell How 2 initiate Persons 
 into The Order, and how Mutch are they ? 
 
^64 Crusade to Europe 
 
 5th. What hez thot Itinery Of corporal mcConihe's to do with 
 the Order — is it Instrucshuns to Persons wantin' 2 Enter The order. 
 
 6th. would you requier All Cash, or Part on Time, if It Is not 
 to Mutch trouble i wish you would Rite me All About It, or Hev. mr. 
 Carlisle do it. 
 
 we are all well, an hopin' you are enjoyin' the Same Blessin, My 
 wife Sez she is anxis for Me to Jine these men so i Can be Buried 
 
 with there onors. 
 
 Yours Ever 
 
 SAMUEL CAROTHERS. 
 
 p. S. — i think Cornel Smith ot 2 Feal Pi-oud at Bein the first 
 grand mogul and give it 2 us Free. 
 
 Yours, S. C. 
 
 The above was duly received, and from the orthogra- 
 phy contained therein is an evidence of intellectual 
 advancement in the superlative degree, still our mission 
 as an humble member of an order, recognizing onljr the 
 good of humanit}^, made us feel it our duty lay as plainly 
 in the direction of placing this man on the right road as 
 we would the most aristocratic prince of royalty, so we 
 gave him the following full information which was as 
 explicit as we could well convey : 
 
 Allegheny City, Pa., February 15th, 1879. 
 Samuel Carothers, Esq., 
 
 Break Neck, .Penn'a. 
 
 My Dear Sir and Fellow Mortal : 
 
 In reply to your very interesting 
 letter of the loth inst. we take pleasure in saying — 
 
 1st. Sir Lee S. Smith, for the same reason of his first election, 
 that of taking the office by force, thereby teaching us the beautiful 
 point of Submission, is the present Grand Mogul,- simply because we 
 are unable to depose him, and Major William C. Moreland, of Pitts- 
 burgh, is the Deputy Vice-Mogul. By our constitution and charter we 
 are prohibited from instituting more than two councils in any one 
 county. 
 
OF Allegheny Commandery. 365 
 
 2d. Having no poor people in our order, it being strictly con- 
 fined to the wealthy, our charges are " steep," namely, one hundred 
 dollars for each degree, and three degrees in the order; that is for 
 one person. When giving them to a dozen or more, we give them at 
 wholesale prices, — a very liberal reduction of 25, 20, 15, 10, 5, and 
 5 and 2^ per cent, extra off for cash. The first man placing in 
 "Carlisle's" hands one hundred silver pieces bearing the engraving 
 of the. English Buzzard, he shall be the First Grand Mogul. 
 
 3d. You would necessarily be compelled to come down to Alle- 
 gheny to receive the degrees at present ; still the three highest officers 
 would not object to going up to Break Neck ten times, provided there 
 was any amount of "root of all evil" in it. 
 
 4th. In answer to this question we would simply whisper a 
 kindly word of advice in your ear; go and have an hour with your 
 pastor and spiritual adviser, perhaps he can tell you of the awful 
 death which once upon a time befel a man named Morgan, an alleged 
 member of those pagans and dark lantern heathen called Masons. 
 Oh! no, we have no printed books. We can take our own life, if 
 necessary, before our allotted time expires for usefulness on this mun- 
 dane sphere, without sending out special invitations for some one to 
 come and do it for us. 
 
 5. The " itinerary" of Colonel McConihe is a little degree of 
 "of his own ; we know nothing about it, no one can ever enter it with- 
 out the Colonel's permission. However, we will give you his address ; 
 perhaps you may obtain the desired information by addressing him 
 personally : " Colonel S. McConihe, Camp Douglas, Salt Lake City, 
 Utah." 
 
 6th. We hardly know whether to treat this question as ignor- 
 ance or insult, but through charity will treat it as the former. Our 
 terms are positively and strictly cash on the spot. At any time you 
 desire the committee will assemble, and will repair to your town of 
 cheerful and pleasant name and institute your branch of the order. 
 
 Oh ! my no ! it is no trouble whatever to answer a few such ques- 
 tions as these, our time is not valuable at all ; all we have to do is 
 ' just to sit and answer such questions — only when you have an entire 
 catechism to propound please ask us but one or two questions a month 
 or so. Yours truly, CARLISLE. 
 
 P. S. — Please disabuse your mind of any such expectation as 
 Col. Smith coming up to give the degrees " free." 
 
 Thank you, we are all well. Carlisle. 
 
366 Crusade to Europe 
 
 We never heard another word from Mr. Carothers on 
 this subject, and can onl3^ surmise some of his anti-secret 
 friends seized upon him and scared the poor fellow from 
 joining our ranks. 
 
 We have as nearly as possible' in this book endeav- 
 ored to follow as accurately as possible the doingS; the 
 sights and dailj^ incidents of the Commandery as a 
 whole, and of its members individuall}^ ; v/e are aware 
 much can be found fault with, but it will at least serve 
 as a slight momento of that happy pilgrimage, condensed 
 as its history is, and if we have spent an hour pleasantlj' 
 in your company we are fully satisfied and amply repaid. 
 
 Wishing every member of the Crusading part}^ of 
 '78, in business — all prosperity' ; in liealth — all blessings : 
 in life — all joy ; in death — a calm and peaceful rest, and 
 as the inveterate foe of all mankind, relentless in his 
 visitations, old Father Time in his inevitable and unerr- 
 ing flight, strikes one Crusader here and another there; 
 as he touches one by one with his cold and fatal hand of 
 death ; should he by blind and unreasoning chance pass 
 us by for a little while longer, there is not one who will 
 ever be forgotten by " Carlisle," and with this he bids 
 you each and every one " Farewell " and " Farewell." 
 
^^ ^ Kn llflemoitam: ^- 
 
 ^»^ We are called upon to perform the melancholy task 
 of chronicling in these pages the death of a worthy Sir 
 Knight, who was numbered m ith the jDarty on the Crusade — 
 
 OF EMILIE, BUCKS COUNTY, PA. 
 
 On the Evening of July 1st, 1879, seated round an elegantly 
 spread banquet table, celebrating the First Annual Reunion of 
 the Crusaders of '78, were a large number of the Pilgrims, merrily 
 chatting over the pleasant memories of the tour; at that table 
 sat Jesse L. Stackhouse, Esq., who had come all the way to 
 Pittsburgh that he might be present with his fellow fraters and 
 companions on that occasion. Little did any of us think, as we 
 sat and ate, and drank, in the midst of mirth and merriment, 
 that even then the dread Angel of Death ■was hovering near. 
 Little did we surmise, as we shook hands with Sir Knight 
 Stackhouse, that never more would we see him here in the 
 Asylum on the earth below. 
 
 Arriving at his home on July 4th, hale and hearty as cus- 
 tomary, suddenly and ruthlessly he was stricken down by the 
 Dread Destroyer on July loth. Gentle as a child, with a spirit 
 as meek. Sir Stackhouse was called from his work here; hav- 
 ing fulfilled, indeed, his long and weary pilgrimage on earth, 
 he was taken on the last, long pilgrimage of Death ; and we 
 lyiow that he has simply gone with those who have gone before, 
 and is peacefully at rest in the great Asylum beyond, where 
 sooner or later we must all go, our lamented Sir Knight and 
 Crusader only preceding to give us all the grand welcome; and 
 we trust, though it is so sad to part from dear friends, we may 
 only go peacefully to sleep here, to awaken in the world be- 
 yond, with the glad greeting from our late worthy Sir Kiiight, 
 "Pilgrim, I greet thee I" And we trust that in the great future 
 Temple, not one chair will be vacant, not one face be missing; 
 that there every Crusader of '78 shall meet and hold a reunion 
 that shall never have an end. 
 
 To the friends of Sir Knight Stackhouse, we extend the 
 heart and hand of sympathy, in the bereavement with which 
 they have been overtaken. 
 
 *■ 
 
H 61- 79 1 
 
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