^0^ -T^T* .^ y WILSON NICELY, In the Clerk's Office of the United States District Court for tlie Eastern District of Missouri. CONTENTS. PAGE. TO THE HEADEli.— Treasures at IIoiuo— Practical Advantagos— Uncle's Farm 5-S liKNERAL DESCIUPTION OF MISSOUlfT.— I(s MaKiiiliuU— Lalilu.le- Teinperatiire 7 NOKTII l\riS,SOURI.— TiniI.er— Soil— Agrloiillural Advantages — :^^!Ileral— Coal, Lead, Iron— Oil— AVater—Coniinerciat Advantages- Towns— St. -lo- sei)li, Hannibal ". 7-10 SOUTHEUX JllSSOUm.— AVater— Soil— Timber- The Mineral Ilesonrces of Sontlieast Slissourl— 'Location of Jliuerals-Irou— Lead— Copper— Gold- Clays, etc.— Connnercial Facilities— Cities— Towns— Railroads 11-15 SOUTHWEST IMISSOURI.- Area— The Topography— The Timber— Soil- Fruits— Grasses— Tlic Water— Rivers— Springs— Grand Palls— Caves— < i rand Scenery — Deer — Game — Fish — Northern Arkansas — Fruits — IJIrds — Tlie Mineral Resources— Ijocation— Coal— Oil— Lead— Iron— Copper-Sil- ver — The Connnercial Facilities — Railroads — Towns — Churches — Schools — (iovernment Land 15-2G TWEXTV-SIX COUNTIES OF SOUTHWEST MISSOURI.— Rarry— P.ar- ton— Bates— Benton — Canidou — Cedar— Christian— Dado —Dallas — Dong- lass — ( i recne — Henry — Hickory — .Tasper — Laclede — Lawrence — McDon- ald — Newton — Oz.ark — Polk — St. Clair — Stone — Taney — Vernon — W<'1>- ster— Wright— Tables of Distances by Railroad and River 27-49 STATISTICAL TABLES 50-55 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF KANSAS.— Area-Topography— Soil— Tim- ber — Minerals — W.ater — Government Land — Railroads — Churches — Schools— Commercial Advantages 56-5tf TWO YEARS' TRAVEL AND RESIDENCE IN MISSOURI AND KANSAS. CHAPTER I.— Introductory— A Night at West Qulncy— A Happy Couple- Railroad Adventure— The Iron Horse Gives Out— Bushwhackers— Ar- rival at Macon— Dry Jokes— St. Joseph, Its Prosperitj-- Weston— Steamer Emily— Arrival at Leavenworth ; CO-CG CHAPTER II.— Leavenworth, Its Situation, Commerce, Population, Signs of Prosperity, the Fort, Pilot Knob Cemetery— A Journey by Stage Coach— A Rich Country— Topcka, Description— Modern Pioneers— " The Univer- B.al Yankee"— Tecumseli, a City of the Past — Lawrence, if» History, Quantrell's Raid. Present Prosperity 66-71 CONTENTS. SOUTHWESTERN KANSAS. PACE. CHAPTER III— Baldwin City— Prairie City— Oliio City— Garrett— Loroy— Burliiigtdn — Ottuinwa — llartt'ord — Neoslio RapUis — Qualvor Settle- ment— Emporia Slate Normal School — Couucil Grove— Fort Riley — Imlians— Pacific Railroad Lands— Coal Mines— Topeka 71-75 CHAPTER IV.— At Lawrence— News of Lee's Surrendei^— Puljlic Rejoic- ing— The Assassination of Lincoln— Sudden Revulsion of Peeling- Tiie Grief of a Nation — From Lawrence to Leavenworth — Delaware Re- serve—Indian Tribes— Elfect of Civilization- Santa Fe Trains- Atchi- son— An Indian Preacher, his Tlieory Concerning tlie Failure of Slis- sionaries— Atchison County — Jackson County— Topeka— Burlingame — Ridgeway — Twin Mounds — Clinton— J. A. Beam— ISloomington — Osage Hedges— Dairies 75-81 CHAPTER v.— An Expedition to tlie Cherokee Neutral Lands, tlie Outfit, Object- J. A. Beam and his Tiieorles— Constitution of tlie Progressive Fraternity— The Rendezvous at Lawrence— Tlie First Niglit in Camji — Prairie City— Stanton— Osage River— Tlie Doctor's Adventure— Miami County— Twin Springs— Linn Connty— Paris— Moneka— Mound City- Fort Lincoln— Fort Scott 82-89 CHAPTER VI.— The ailssouri Border— Jasper County— A Depopulated Region— Ripe Fruits— Pure Water- Ricli Soil— Camp on Spring River — Natural Vineyards— Deserted Homes — Camii on Slioai Creek— Reiling's Mill — Gr.and Falls on Shoal Creek — Beautiful Scenery — Clierokee Farm — A Cherokee — General Appearance of the Country— Return — Cow Creek— Delayed by 11 igli Water— Return to Fort Scott— Again at Lawrence 89-93 CHAPTER VII.— Return to Spring River— Refii gees Returning Home- Scarcity of Houses— Camp at the Mouth of Centre Creek— On Spring River— Building a Cabin— Gathering Hay for the Winter- Abundance of Game— Hunting Adventures- Wild Hogs— Doer— A Dead Sliot— Tlie Osago Indians .as Hunters— A Burning Prairie— Vivid Description— A Herd of Deer— Winter Evenings—" The Good Time Coming" 94-99 C;HAPTER VIII.— Expedition to Arkansas— Reding's Mill— Neosho— Pine- vllle— A Dilapidated Village— Camp on Big Sugar Creek— Beautiful Winter Scene— A Rich Country— Ciimato Mild— Myriads of Birds- Winter Grapes— Benton Connty— Absence of the Schoolmaster— Human Vegetables- A "Native" Rip Van Winkleism— Madison County— Car- roll County— Fruit-Soil— Cllmate~Our Return to Spring River— Bax- ster's Springs— Fertility and Value of the Lands knomi as the " Gov- ernment Strip "—Conclusion —" Homes for AH " 99-100 IMPORTANT QUESTIONS ANSWERED 107-111 HOMESTEAD LAW 112-115 TO THE READER. The groat interest now being awakened witli regard to Missouri and Kansas must be taken as a suflicient apology for the publication of this book. No other States, not excepting even Nevada and California, have attracted so much attention, or become so much the theme of remark and inquiry as these. Geographically, they occup}^ a cen- tral position in the habitable part of the continent, forming virtually the heart of the country. The climate, soil, and resources of these States are worthy of this honorable position. No part of the Union is more fertile or better watered, and but few are more salubrious. AVhy go to the Gulf States or to the Pacific coast in quest of treasures that are hidden at our own doors — that are buried beneath our own feet? Why neglect the practical advantages within our reach for the possible good afar off? Men need not go to Texas or Oregon for homes when thousands of . acres of the richest and most productive land on the con- tinent are lying idle in Missouri and Kansas. The eye of the - speculator is unhappily adjusted only for viewing remote objects. Its range is telescopic, and hence the images of all near objects are blurred and indistinct. It is with the purpose of correcting such defects of vision that this book has been prepared. The author would place before his readers, in a clear, succinct manner, a correct and faithful description of home lands. The}' may lack the novelty and romance pertaining to lands remote, but they possess practical advantages which foreign regions do not possess. 1 6 PREFACE. Will the reader bear in mind, that of the extensive farm owned by our generous "uncle," the broad acres in the central portion are the richest and best ? In time this will be acknowledged, but now it must be demonstrated by facts and figures. Such of these as came under his obser- vation the author has collected and arranged, and in so doing has been more anxious to secure accuracy Of state- ments than beauty of diction, or grace of style. He has aimed at precision rather than elegance, for his object has been rather to give information than amusement to the reader. The book is not written in the interest of any Railroad Cor})oration, Emigrant Aid Society, or Real Estate Com- pany', nor has any aid been received from these or any other agencies. The work has been issued solely at the expense of the author, and for its statements he alone is responsible. The author has added to tlie work, at a heavy expense, a valual)le map of Missouri and Kansas, which will be found useful to the general reader, and especially useful to travelers or persons seeking homes. The map, which has been carefully and elaborately prepared, represents county and township divisions, and gives besides all the count}^ roads, railroads, towns, and villages within the localities described. The book contains also useful tables, giving information regarding the government and mineral lands 5 distances between important points, etc. These are some of the points in which the author believes this book pos- sesses a real value to those seeking information, and that it will not be without interest to the general reader. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF MISSOURI. Tlie State of Missouri, -wuich is nearly the geographical center of the continent, lies in the heart of the valley of the Mississippi, its eastern borders being washed for a dis- tance of more than four hundred and fifty miles by the Great Father of Waters, thus occupying a position of commercial importance unsurpassed by any State in the Union. The State has an area of about G 7,500 square miles, or 43,200,000 acres of land. The State contains about 22,000 square miles more than the State of New York, and is about eight times the sijce of Massachusetts. Missouri lies between the parallels 3G.30 and 40.36 north latitude ; it is proverbial for the salubrity of its cli- mate, it having the mean temperatui'e of the temperate zone. The sunmiers are long and pleasant ; the winters short and mild. The topography of the State presents such a varied aspect, that in order to give the reader any- thing like a correct idea of the physical features of the country, we deem it necessary' in this description to sepa- rate the State into districts, which we shall term North and South Missouri, the Missouri River being the divid- ing line. NORTHERN MISSOURI Mas 44 counties with an average of 440 square miles each. The face of the country is undulating and rolling, with but very few hills of any considerable magnitude. The Avestern portion of this district is very agx'eeably diversified with prairie and timber lands, there being about an equal portion of each ; but in the central and eastern 8 MISSOURI AND KANSAa. portions timber is less plentiful, with the exception of a few counties bordering on the Mississippi River, which are covered with a very luxuriant growth of for(;st trees, con- sisting of black, white, and burr oak, black and white walnut, hickory, elm, maple, ash, wild cherry, honey locust, mulberry, pecan, cottonwood, etc. This portion of the State is destitute of pine, hemlock, etc. ; but of the species enumerated, and many others, there is an inex- haustible supply, and the former, with a trifling expense, is floated down the Mississippi to the various ports in Missouri from the extensive pineries of AVisconsin and Minnesota. Good building stone abounds in this as in every other portion of the State ; material for making brick is also plentiful, as the many rich and substantial business houses and dwellings testify. THE SOIL In the western portion can scarcely be excelled. It is very productive, and is well adapted to the culture of the various grains and fruits. The country is sufficiently rolling to be well drained, while as before remarked, there are few hills of any magnitude, and these are principally along the bank of the Missouri River, but constitute by no means a leading feature of the countiy bordering on that noble stream, for its bottom lands are extensive and fer- tile, often reaching back in gentle undulations far as the eye can reach. North Missouri is generally denominated the agricultural portion of the State, and perhaps deservedly so ; for certain it is that the same area of country can scarcely be found in this or any other State possessing superior agricultural advantages. The soil is as rich and fertile as any in the "West, and is peculiarly adapted to the culture of the various cereals, grasses, fruits, and vege- tables of this latitude, yielding from 40 to 100 bushels of corn per acre ; from 1 5 to 45 of wheat and rye ; from 20 to MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 9 40 of oats and barley. Hoiii]) and flax yield a profit, under the old system of hackling, of from 25 to 50 dollars per acre, while 200 dollars per acre for tobacco is considered a very ordinary crop. This portion of the State has unsnrpassed facilities for stock growing. Farmers are devoting much of their atten- tion to this important branch of industry, and hundreds of car loads of stock are annually shipped to St. Louis and Eastern cities. The least attractive and, perhaps, most inferior portion of Missouri, is included within the limits of a few counties in the extreme eastern part of the State, where the surface is much broken, presenting many nar- row ridges and knolls. These lands are thought by many to be compai-atively worthless, but thej' are especially adapted to the culture of the grape, and many other fruits, and if devoted to that interest could be made to yield as large a profit as the heavier and richer soils. THE MIXERAL RESOURCES Of Northern Missouri, though not so vast as those of the Southern portion, are nevertheless important. Coal is found in 19 counties, to-wit : Callaway, Carroll, Chariton, Clarke, Gentry, Howard, Lincoln, Linn, Livingston, Marion, Mercer, Monroe, Pike, Putnam, Ray, St. Charles, Shelby, and Worth. Lead is found in considerable deposits in the counties of Carroll, Howard, Knox, .Mont- gomery, and Schuj'ler. Iron in Knox and Mercer, and copper in Gentry and Livingston. There are several oil wells in successful operation, and throughout North Mis- souri indications of oil are numerous. No section of country, of equal extent, affords a greater number of fine streams of pure water. It is bordered on thi'ee sides by navigable rivers, east by the Mississippi, 10 MISSOURI AND KANSAS, south and west by the Missouri, while the smaller creeks and rivers tributary to those streams are almost innumer- able. THE COAIMEKCIAI. ADVANTAGKS Of Northern JNIissoiui are great, and rapidly increasing in importance. The district is bounded on the east, south, and west bj^ navigable waters. The Hannibal and St. Joe Railroad passes through its center from east to west ; the North Missouri Railroad running from St. Louis north to Macon City, connects with the Hannibal and St. Joe Rail- road, and is being rapidly extended north from Macon to tap the Iowa roads ; a branch is also being pushed west to Brunswick on the JNIissouri River. The Platte County Railroad connects St. Joe with Weston on the Missouri River ; the St. Joe and Council Bluffs Railroad is com- pleted to Savannah ; the Great Western Railroad has also extended its line from West Quincy, on the Mississippi, to Palmyra, where it intersects the Hannibal and St. Jo(^ Railroad. TOWNS. The principal commercial towns of North Missouri are Hannibal arid St. Joseph. The former is situated on the bank of the Mississippi, and is the eastern terminus of the Hannibal and St. Joe Railroad, and is a place of consid- erable importance, containing about 8,000 inhabitants, 1 1 churches, 5 select schools, 3 public schools, and a Catholic seminary, 1 daily and 2 weekly newspapers. St. Josephs on the Missouri River, is the western terminus of the Han- nibal and St. Joe Railroad, and contains about 20,000! inhabitants, being second in size and importance to St. Louis. It is an extensive shipping point, is suiTounded by a rich and attractive country, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and influence. Besides these there are in every . county fine flourishing towns and villages. ;^ MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 11 SOUTHERN MISSOURI. What is here denominated Southern Missouri is bounded on the north by the Missouri River, east by the Missis- sippi, on the south by Arkansas, and west by Kansas and Indian Territory, including seventy counties. For our own convenience, as well as to give the reader a more definite idea of the topography of Southern Missouri, we will form two divisions by drawing a line from Jefferson City south to the Arkansas border, at the point where the east fork of White River leaves the State of Missouri. The physical features of these sections are in many respects dissimilar ; the eastern portion generall}^ rolling and often hilly, and that part ])ordering on Arkansas hilly, and in many places mountainous. There are, however, many water courses bordered by rich, alluvial bottoms in the northwestern part of this district ; and extending south near to the Arkansas line are many extensive and beauti- ful table lands, which form a leading feature in the topog- raphy of this region ; while in the extreme southeast there is a large proportion of fertile prairie. THE sou- In the eastern portion of Southern Missouri is much varied ; that along the banks of the numerous water courses is exceedingly rich and fertile, while that on the uplands is of lighter nature, but is well adapted to the cul- ture of the small grains and of fruit. In the northeast there are several counties bordering on the Mississippi and Missouri rivers which will compare favorably with any in the State. The soil is very rich and productive, and all the various grains and fruits grow to perfection. Hemp, cotton, and tobacco are successfully grown, and it is safe to assert that no section of country can surpass this part of the State in tlie culture of the grape. There are 12 MISSOURI 4ND KANSAS. experienced vine dressers at Hermann, and otiier points, who have thoroughly tested the soil for grape culture, and they regard this region as the best grape growing locality on the continent. Flax, castor bean, and many other valuable productions, too numerous to mention, are suc- cessfully raised, and are a source of great profit. TlIK TIMIJEK Of Southeast Missouri surpasses that of any other section of the Western States. Her forests are as extensive and varied, and in the course of a very few years will be a source of unbounded wealth. Her forests comprise all the various species found in other portions of the State, such as black, white, and burr oak, of a very superior growth and quality, red, Spanish, water, and pin oak, hickory, hackberiy, walnut, sycamore, elm, mulberry, etc, ; but of far more importance than all these are her vast forests of yellow pine, which are of verj' flne growth and quality, and extend through quite a number of counties in the south central portion of the State. THE MINERAL RESOURCES Of Southeast Missouri are beyond all estimate, both as to their value and extent. There are huge mountains of almost solid iron, rich and extensive veins of copper, silver, zinc, lead,- nickel, and almost every variety of valuable metals. The mineral wealth of Southeast Mis- souri, though known to exist, is 3'et far from being fully developed. Notwithstanding there are more that 200 lead mines now being worked, many of which have been in operation for more than 30 years, still new leads of rich ore are being discovered almost everj'^ week. Stone of nearly every description, of any known value, is scattered profusely over the whole countiy. Coal is also found in large quantities in several of the northeastern counties of MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 13 South Missouri, and the city of St. Louis is being supplied with thousands of tons annually from these mines. For the benefit of those of our readers, who feel interested in the subject of minerals, we will give a few statistics in relation to the LOCATION OF MINERALS, IRON, LEAD, ETC., Taken from Professor Swallow's Geological Report of his survey of the State of Missouri. Iron. — There are in Jefterson county thi-ee discoveries of iron, located in township 39, range 6 and 4 ; in Frank- lin county iron is found in seven localities, townships 41 and 42, range 1 and 2 ; in Crawford county there are eighteen localities, townships 35, 37, 39, and 38, range 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 ; and in Phelps county there are ten locali- ties, townships 36, 37, and 39, range 6, 7, and 8 ; in Pulaski county there are four localities, townships 36 and 37, range 11 and 12. It is also found in Ironton county, and many others. Lead. — There are in Jetferson county forty-one locali- ties where lead is found, in townships 38, 39, 40, and 41, range 3, 4, 5, and 6 ; in "Washington county forty-four localities, townships 30, 37, 38, 39, and 40, range 36, 37, 38, and 39 ; in Franklin county there are thirty-seven localities, townships 40, 41, and 42, range 1 and 2 ; in Crawford county there are thirty-six localities, townships 36,37, 38, 39, 40, and 41, range 1 and 2; in Phelps county there are seven localities, townships 36 and 39, range 7, 8, and 9. Lead is also found in abundance in many other counties. Copper is found in Franklin county in five difl'erent localities, townships 40 and 41, range 1 and 2 ; in Craw- ford *county eight localities, in townships 36, 38, 39, and 40, range 2, 3, 4, and 5. 14 mSSOURI AND KANSAS. The above data will serve to give the reader some idea of the inexhaustible wealth of Southeast Missouri. Gold. — Nothing is being done toward developing the gold mines of Southeast Missoiu'i, and yet, from assays that have been made by Professor F. Weiss, and others, it is evident that mines are being worked in California to-day which yield a smaller profit than would those of Southeast Missouri. Clay, etc. — Vast mounds and beds of clay of the most valuable kinds are found in the southeast, from which the finest wares are manufactured. There are also vast mounds of the finest quality of white sand, immense quantities of which are annuall}^ shipped to Pittsburgh, Pa., to be used in the manufacture of glass. It is indeed impossible to form an estimate, or even an approximate estimate, of the mineral wealth of Southeast Missouri. THE COMMERCIAL FACILITIES Of this section are extensive and rapidly improving. The Mississippi River washes its entire eastern border ; the Missouri its northern, while the St. Francois and Little rivers aftbrd an outlet for the productions of the southern portion. Add to these advantages the Cairo and Fulton, the St. Louis and Iron Mountain, and the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, and the facilities of Southeast Missouri for commerce become apparent to every one. Its chief shipping point is vSt. Louis, which is situated on the western bank of the Mississippi, a few miles below the confluence of that stream and the Missouri. CITIES AND TOWNS. St. Louis is the largest inland citj^ on the continent, having a population of over 200,000, with upwards of 60 churches, and more than 30 miles of street railway. The MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 15 city extends about seven miles along tlie Mississippi, and about three miles back. Its streets are wide and regularly laid out. Its public buildings, mercantile houses, and residences, will compare favorably Avith those of any city of the same size and age, and are constructed chiefly' of marble, stone, and brick, while its principal hotels, the Lindell and Southern, in regard to size and munificence can scarcely be excelled in any cit}^ of the Union. The educational institutions are numerous, and have attained a high degree of excellence. Its manufactures are very important and rapidly increasing, while as an inland ship- ping point St. Louis stands unrivaled, her steam tonnage being greater than that of any other inland city, the average number of arrivals during the past year being nearly 350 per month. Jefferson City, the Capital of the State, lies on the Pacific Railroad about 150 miles from St. Louis, and con- tains 3,000 inhabitants. Pacific, situated 38 miles from St. Louis on the Pacific Railroad, where that line is intersected by the Atlantic and Pacific Raih'oad, is a thriving town, containing many fine mercantile houses, residences, etc. Holla., 113 miles southwest from St. Louis, is located on the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, and contains about 3,000 inhabitants, sevei'al large wholesale and commission houses, and is a point of considerable business. There are many other towns of less importance which we can not now enumerate. SOUTmVEST inSSOURI. We come now to Southwest Missouri, the " Garden of the West," a land j^et destined to be celebrated in song and story, in whose history are alread}'' interwoven many thrilling incidents. 16 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. From the divisions before mentioned the reader will readily understand the term southwest to include that por- tion of the State south of the Missouri River, and west of the datum line drawn from Jefferson City south to the Arkansas border ; a scope of country embracing the rich- est soil, the most valuable lead mines, the finest and largest streams of piu*est water, and the most salubrious climate on the American Continent, and concerning which an interest is now being awakened in the Northern and Eastern states, never before manifested in regard to any particular localit}', California perhaps excepted. The south- west has an area of 20,73G square miles, or 13,311,040 acres of land, four-fifths of which is excellent farming- land, and beneath the remainder lies buried inexhaustible mineral wealth. The topograx)hical features of the country are somewhat varied, the western portion being beautifully undulating and diversified with prairie and timber. Though a vast amount of land in this portion of the State was sold by Government as swamp lands, yet it is nevertheless a fact that a marsh or swamp can scarcely be found in the entire southwest ; it is all sufficiently rolling to be well drained, and yet the western portion, of which we are now speaking, is not broken or hilly, it is nearl}^ equally divided into prairie and timber ; further east there is a greater proportion of timber, and in the extreme east- ern counties the proportion is still greater, and the coinitry more broken ; but even here there are many rich, alluvial bottom lands, many small but fertile prairies, and upon some of the most elevated portions of the country there are extensive plateaus of the most fertile soil. THE TIMBER Of Southwest Missouri embraces most varieties found in other parts of the State, but is principally oak, hickory, MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 17 and walnut. Upon the southern slope of the Ozark Range, however, and in the counties bordering on Arkansas, there is a heavy growth of yellow pine of superior quality, which is very valuable for lumber, and which is now being manu- factured to supply the wants of the northern counties, but owing to the terrible ravages of the late rebellion, in the destruction of mills and other property, the demand for pine lumber far exceeds the supply. This objection, how- ever, is being rapidly overcome, and will soon be entirely removed, as capitalists are fast improving the rare oppor- tunities which this portion of the State affords. There are numerous water courses in the eastern portion of this district, which are invariably bordered by rich, alluvial bottoms, comprising by far the most fertile lands of this section, although, as before intimated, a large portion of the uplands are exceedingly fertile, and well adapted to all the various kinds of grain, fruit, etc., of this climate. The estimate of arable land in the southwest varies somewhat among different writers the author is of the opinion that not less than four-fifths of the entire south- west is, or will soon become valuable farming land, and this estimate is based upon a personal and familiar acquaint- ance with this portion of the State. A few estimates of the yield of the various productions may not be out of place here, and perchance may interest the reader. Corn ranges from 40 to 100 bushels per acre, wheat and rye from 15 to 40, oats and barley from 20 to 45, and potatoes from 100 to 300 bushels per acre. Cotton, flax, and hemp thrive, and tobacco grows to perfection. Indeed, the soil seems specially adapted to the culture of this most profit- able crop. The advantages of Southwest Missouri, as a fruit grow- ing region, are unrivaled, and world renowned strangers and visitors have often expressed the greatest wonder and amazement on beholding the profusion of choice, delicious 18 MISSOURI AND KAKSAS. fruits, many of which grow spontaneously from the earth. Apples, peaches, pears, plums, and quinces of extraordi- nary size and flavor are cultivated with the greatest possi- ble success. There is an almost endless variety of wild fruits, which in size and flavor equal the cultivated fruits of many other States. Grapes, plums, cherries, lolack- berries, gooseberries, strawberries, persimmons, crab apples by no means complete the list of these natural fruits. Manj' facts exist in regard to the growth and yield of these fruits which seem almost fabulous, and to the stranger perfectly incredible. For instance, from a single vine, near Springfield, Mr. F. Wack gathered in 1865 10 bushels of grapes, which would make 20 gallons of wine, which at $4 per gallon would amount to $80, and in Christian county I saw growing upon an area of not more than two acres of land, at least 100 bushels of large wild grapes ; and in neither of the above instances had the vines ever received the slightest care or attention, and those interested may readily conclude whether or not grape culture, in this region, Avould be attended with profit and success. Instances lilce those given are not rare, nor are they confined to any particular portion of the south- west, for scarcely an acre of timbered land can be found destitute of the grape vine, while straAvberries, blackber- ries, etc., etc., grow upon the prairies in the richest pro- fusion. Nearly every farmer has his orchard of apples, peaches, and pears, Avhich rarely ever fail, and, notwith- standing the supply of fruit is far greater than the de- mand, owing to the fact that this section of the State is so remote from market, yet there are many farmers Avho realize from S300 to S1,000 per year for fruit alone, to say nothing of the endless feast which they themselves enjoy in having an abundance of fruit throughout the year. Those entering upon unimproved lands, by planting a few trees earl}^ will soon have an abundance of fruit, as the MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 19 trees grow very rapidly. There are several nurseries in the southwest from which trees can readily be obtained. The principal nurseries arc those of J. Vaughan & Co., Springfield, Mo., and R. D. Reynolds, near Buffalo, in Dallas county. These nurseries contain as large and choice varieties of fruit trees as can be found in the West. THE AVATEIt Of Southwest Missouri is a subject of special interest and importance. The streams of pure, clear, running water are innumerable, every county being liberally supplied. The principal streams are the Osage, Grand, Sac, White, James, Elkhorn, Niangua, Pomme de Terre, and Spring Rivers. The Osage enters the State from the Avest in the northern part of Bates county, flows in a northeasterly course, and discharges its waters into the Missouri River, about twelve miles east of Jellerson City. This stream is navigable, for light ch-affc boats, to the confluence of the Little Osage, and Osage proper, near the western border of the State. None of the other streams are navigable, and they are all noted less for their size than the purity of their waters. They are clear, cold, and rapid in descent, and atford man}- excellent mill sites. On Spring River alone there are fifty unimproved sites furnishing good water power. This really beautiful stream drains the finest agricultural portion of the entire west, and is fed by some of the finest and boldest springs in the world. This country is remarkable for its magnificent fountains of crystal water, among the most noted of which are Cedar Spring, in Camden count}-, which bursts forth from beneath a low clift in the hilly range bordering on the Osage River, and rushes down over its rocky bed with a suflflcient volume to propel any ordinary machinery. The Upper and Lower Big Spring, the former rising in Dallas, the latter in Camden county, are tnily nature's 20 - MISSOURI AND KANSAS. masterpieces of workmanship, and are a source of pride to the country, as well as delight to the strangers. The latter spring discharges 2,000 cubic feet of water per minute. There are many objects of interest and curiosity in this highly favored region, not the least of which are the Grand Falk on Shoal River, in Newton county. The stream is about 200 feet wide, and 18 inches in depth, and falls per- pendicularly from a ledge of solid rock 12 feet high, and continues to rush madly on over the rocks below. Further up the stream there is another fall of eighty feet. There are numerous caves in every part of the southwest, many of which are objects of peculiar interest to the student of nature. There is a cave about two miles north of Ozark, in Christian county, which is 100 feet wide at the entrance, and 35 feet in height, and extends back a distance of 400 feet, where the dimensions are reduced to 50 feet in width, and 25 feet in height. At this point a fine stream of water, which comes rushing out from the unexplored depths beyond, falls over a ledge of rocks, and passes out under- neath the floor of the cave. The walls present man}' strange and interesting pictures, which are supposed to have been traced by the hands of a race now extinct. It is really a romantic spot, and may justly be termed one of the Great Spirit's grand natural concert halls, where the music of the invisibles still echoes to the ear of the thoughtful. Wood's cave, twelve miles southeast of Springfield, is another grand and interesting sight. There are a thous- and objects of interest to the lover of nature. To such there can be no greater pleasure than to ascend one of those high mounds which forms a natural observatory, and drink in at a single glance the magnificent scenery of the prairie, with its herds of cattle quietly grazing, and its bounding deer, the beautiful woodlands, the majestic hill. MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 21 aud the romantic dell, and listen to the music of the waters as they ripple over their stony bed. No section of country offers a finer or more extended field for the sportsman — deer, geese, turkeys, prairie chick- e2is, raccoons, quails, opossums, otter, beaver, mink, etc., abound in all the more unsettled portions of the south- west. While on a hunting expedition in 1865, in Jasper county, in company witli three other persons, in passing over a mound upon the prairie, I came suddenly upon a herd of deer, numbering twenty-six ; I succeeded in bringing down one of the number, but my companions came up too late to get a shot. I saw no less than fifty deer during the day, and had I ])een accustomed to the chase could doubtless have largely increased my stock of game. Deer may often be seen in herds of from six to ten, quietly grazing upon the prairie, or bounding along with the speed of the wind, pursued by the never tiring hunter. The innumerable streams of pure, clear w^ater, are filled with the choicest kind of fish, such as trout, bass, eels, etc. In speaking of the beauties of nature I will add, that were some of the most ardent devotees to its study to visit with me some" of the southern counties, and gaze upon some of those high precipices, covered with cedar and pine, they would discover new beauties in nature's handi- work. In 186(5 I visited the extreme southwest of Missouri, and Northwest Arkansas, and while standing on some of those high peaks, where I could sec at a glance all the surrounding country, I was reminded of the hills on the Evergreen Shore, so sacred to the lovers of music, and my soul was refreshed, and I was impelled to express thanks to God for the many beautiful works of his hand. During the same visit I found in the deep valleys immense quanti- ties of wild grapes, called winter grapes, and here too I 22 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. discovered where our northern birds seek and find their homes during the long, cold months of winter. Myriads of them were congregated in t^e trees along the valleys ; their delightful warblings greeted my ears on every side, making the air vocal with their sweet melodies. >Surely, thought I, these must be angels' songs, and this earth's Paradise. THE MINERAL RESOURCES Of Southwest Missouri are beyond all estimate, almost every county, south of the Missouri River, containing one or more kinds of valuable ore. In the eastern counties are found silvei; cojyper, lead, iron, zinc, tin, nickel, platina, emery, marble, granite, etc. While in the central and western counties iron, coal, and lead exist in large de- posits. Cojyper is found in several of the central coun- ties, but as yet but little has been done toward bringing it to the surface, and the same is true of iron; but the lead mines of the central and western counties are thought by many experienced miners to be the richest in the world. Although there is no railroad communication with this portion of the State, yet these mines have been worked with great success for upwards of tliirtj^ years, and thous- ands of tons have been hauled on wagons to the various shipping points. There are several furnaces now in active operation, and others being constructed. There are more tliau 500 localities where lead is found, and about one-half of these mines are now being developed. There are many positive indications of lead, iron, *and copper on govern- ment lands, j-et subject to entry. Coal underlies nearly all of the western counties. It is of superior quality, and is used in every neighborhood for smithing, and other pur- poses. Upon the completion of the Southwest Pacific, and other projected railroads, coal, which will then have an outlet, will become an object of great importance. MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 28 According to Professor Swallow's report it covers an area in the southwest of 26,000 acres, which, if fully developed, would supply the entire west. Coal mines are now being worked in Jasper, Barton, Vernon, Dade, Cedar, St. Clair, Henry, Bates, Cass, Pettis, Lafayette, and several other counties. Oil is found in several places, and indications are numerous. Lead mines have been opened in Newton, Jasper, Barry, Stone, Christian, Tane}', Webster, Camden, and Benton counties, and are yielding large profits. There are indications of lead in Green, Lawrence, Dade, Dallas, Hickory, Laclede. Wright, Douglas, Ozark, and other counties. Granby, in Newton county, is the princi- pal mining town, and is growing rapidly. H. Blow & Co., of St. Louis, have a large furnace established here, which is kept in constant operation. Horton, Moon & Co. from one shaft raised 25,000 pounds of lead ore in two weeks, with twelve workmen, which is worth upon the ground $28 per thousand pounds, making a total value of $70,000 in two weeks ; and in Christian count}', in the fall of 1866, two men, with the aid of an old axe and a hand-spike, dug 1,100 pounds in one daj'. This mine had l^een but recently discovered, and similar ones are being found almost every week. Professor Swallow reports iron in two localities in Laclede county, to-wit : Township 36, range 1 and 4, and one in Webster county, township 19, range 18 ; in Green county there are sixteen localities, townships 27, 28, 29, dnd 30, range 20, 23, and 24 ; in Lawrence count}- two localities, township 28, range 26 and 27 ; in Stone county three localities, townships 25 and 26, range 23 and 25. He reports copper in Green coimty in two localities, in townships 29 and 30, range 24 ; in La-nTcnce county one localitj', to^vnship 29, range 25 ; in Dade county one local- ity, to^vnship 30, range 25 ; in Taney county one locality, township 26, range 19. 24 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. He reports lead in Laclede county in township 26, range 16 ; Webster county, township 27, range 19 ; Christian county ten localities, township 26, range 19; Taney county, township 26, range 19 ; in Green county two localities, townships 27 and 29, range 21 ; Lawrence county two localities, townships 25 and 26, range 25 ; Barry county, township 25, range 25 ; in Newton county twenty-one localities, townships 25, 26, 27, 28, and 29, range 30, 31, and 32 ; in Jasper county fifteen localities, townships 27, 28, and 29, range 31, 32,33; in Wright county five localities, township 29, range 12. The aljove mentioned are the most important mines that have been discovered, although many more less valuable might be enumerated. THK COMMKRCIAL KACILITIKS Of Southwest Missouri are as yet limited, there being at present no railroad communication with this portion of the State, with the exception of the Union Pacific Rail- road. There are, however, several railroads in process of construction, and others contemplated. The Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, of which the. present western terminus is Little Piney, is being rapidly pushed forward, and is al- ready completed to Little Piney River, twelve miles west of Rolla, and will be cojistructed as far as Springfield within a year, and to the western border of the State within two years. The Tebo and Neosho Railroad, which is contemplated to run from Sedalia on the Union Pacific Railroad, through Fort Scott, in Kansas, on to the rich and fertile valley of the Neosho River. The counties along this line have voted bonds liberally to assist in car- rying forward the enterprise, and there is now every pros- pect that the railroad company will speedily commence breaking ground. The Union Pacific Railroad, which traverses the State from St Louis, in the east, to Kansas City, in the west, affords convenient shipping points for MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 25 the northern portion of Southwest Missouri. Sedalia on the Union Pacific, and Rolla on the Atlantic and Pacific, are the principal shipping points to this portion of the State. 'There are excellent wagon roads to and from these, and all other points. CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS Under the new order of things seem to rise as if by magic, and now every town and village has its churches and school houses. The old and defective code of school laws, which was in force prior to the late rebellion, have been supplanted by a new and more perfect system. The school law of Missouri is now very similar to that of Ohio, and under its wholesome influence and eflfects, the educational interests of Southwest Missouri are rapidly assuming importance and vitality. The people of Southwest Mis- souri are kind and generous, and always ready to extend their hospitalities to strangers who may visit or come to reside among them. THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS Are Sjmncifield, the seat of Green county, and the center of trade in the southwest, which has a population of 3,000 (exclusive of the colored), several churches, academies, schools, etc. Warsaw and Osceola on the Osage, Bolivar, Mt. Ver- non, Carthage, and Granhy, farther south and west. There are many other little towns which are being rapidly built and fast coming into note. GOVERNMENT LAND. From the otticers of the land office, located at Spring- field, I learn that there are about 2,000,000 acres of government land j'et subject to entry in that district, which embraces twelve counties. Below is given a table 26 anssouRi and Kansas. showing the number of acres of government land subject to entry at $1 25 per acre, or under Homestead Bill at $1G per 160 acres. Camden county has 250,000 acres. Barry " " 300,000 " Benton " " 50,000 Cedar " " 20,000 " Christian " " 50,000 «' Dade " " 20,000 " Dallas " " 100,000 " Douglas " " 300,000 " Green •' " 20,000 " Hickory " " 50,000 " " Laclede " " 100,000 •' Lawrence " " 40,000 " McDonald " " 200,000 Newton " " 50,000 Ozark " " 300,000 Polk * " " 25,000 Stone " '• 200,000 " Taney " " 300,000 " Texas " " 100,000 '* Wright " " 200,000 " Webster " " 100,000 Some of the above lands are within the railroad limits, and would rate at $2 50 per acre. They embrace many acres of choice farming lands, rich mineral lands, and valu- able timber lands, some of them as good as the State affords. TWENTY-SIX COUNTIES OF SOUTHWEST MISSOURI. BARRY COUNTY Is situated in the southwest corner of the State, and is bounded on the soutli by the Arkansas line. The land is generally undulating, and the valleys are fertile, Avith a good diAision of prairie and timber. There are few coun- ties in the State where greater inducements are offered to those wishing to engage in farming, mining, manufac- turing, or stock raising. All kinds of grain, fruit and vegetables return an abundant j'ield. Building material, both stone and wood, is plenty. The north part of the county is rich in lead ore, and mines have been success- fully operated. This county has 300,000 acres of govern- ment lands subject to entry. Extensive pineries are found in the south part. Cassville is the county seat. BARTON COUNTY Embraces an area of 600 square miles, and is bounded , on the west by the Kansas line. The land is principally prairie, remarkably fertile, high, level, and well drained. Extensive gi'oves of timber are scattered over the countj^, consisting of linn, hickory, oak, locust, walnut, sycamore, cedar, cottonwood, and elm, of which there is sufficient for all practical purposes. The greater part of the county is underlaid by the best coal, and many beds are being worked with success. Limestone and sandstone, clays and sands, for building, are very abundant. Since the close of the war the county has been rapidly filling up, is 28 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. in a prosperous condition, and unquestionably presents great inducements to farmers and stock growers. Lamar is the county seat. BATES COUNTY Is situated in the northwestern part of Southwest Mis- souri, on tlie Kansas line, comprising 537,600 acres of very rich land. The surface is undulating, with about an equal division of prairie and timber. The soil is excel- lent for all agricultural purposes. Grain and grass of all kinds flourish. Coal is found in abundance, and indica- tions of petroleum are numerous. AYater is plenty, fully furnished by the Osage and south fork of Grand River, which, with their branches, run through the county. But- ler, the county seat, is the principal town of the county, and is o-rowins; finelv. BENTON COUNTY Is located near the centre of the State, and comprises 453,800 acres of land. The surface of the county is undu- lating and hilly — about one-half prairie, the remainder fine timber. The soil in the bottoms of the Osage and Pomme de Terre rivers and their tributaries is remarkably fertile, and will yield to the acre 100 bushels of corn, 30 bushels of wheat, 35 bushels of oats, while for the produc- tion of hemp and tobacco it is equally good. The uplands produce wheat, oats, barley, &c., plentifully, and are espe- cially adapted to fruits and grasses. Good springs are numerous, and supply an abundance of water. The timber consists chiefly of oak, hickory, walnut, elm, etc. Stone for building 2)urposes is plenty. Iron, copper and lead are found in various parts of the county. A. II. Melton, of Warsaw, is now extensively engaged in developing the mineral resources of Benton count}^, and is meeting with MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 2'.) success. Warsaw, the county seat, is situated on the Osage river, and is a beautiful town, with a considerable number of wholesale houses, good public buildings, fine dwellings, and an enterprising class of citizens. Steam- boats ply between this place and 8t. Louis. CAMDEN COUNTY Is situated about thirty miles southwest of Jetferson City. The surfiice of the country is rolling, and in some places hilly. Tlie uplands are well adapted for fruit growing and stock raising, while the bottoms are very fertile. The country is well Avatered by the Osage and Big and Little Niangua rivers, with their tributaries. Timber is abun- dant. Indications of mineral are promising. There are about 300,000 acres of government land yet subject to entry in this county. Linn Creek is the county seat, and is a flourishing town, situated on the Osage. CEDAR COUNTY Has an area of about 450 square miles, and is separated from the Kansas line by ^'ernon county. The western part of the county is principally level and fertile prairie. The eastern half is more rolling, with an abundance of good timber. The soil is well adapted to all agricultural purposes, and especially to stock raising and fruit grow- ing. The whole countr}- is well watered b}^ never tailing- streams. The Sac river traverses it, and, with its tribu- tary creeks, furnishes a large amount of water power, which is yet mostly- unimproved. There is an abundance of stone coal, which is, however, j-et waiting to be developed, and is at "present only used for neighborhood purposes. The prospect for oil in the northern part is tine. Stockton, the county seat, is rapidly recovering from the etlects of the late war, and presents an inviting appearance. 3 30 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. CHRISTIAN COUNTY. BY DR. J. P. OAVEN. This county contains 571 square miles, and is separated from the Arkansas line b}' Stone and Taney counties. The streams that traverse its territory are Terrell, James, Wilson, Finle}^, Bull, Stewart, Swan, and their tributa- ries, and there is hardly a mile along them that does not present a good site for mills or machinery. While the bottoms are the finest of agricultural lands, the blufls of limestone and flint are w arranty against anj^ overflowing. There are now on Finley creek five mills, and on James one, the latter run by steam. On Bull creek there is one mill and distiller}'. On Swan creek sites for steam work are plenty, and water abundant. In every section of the county are pure and lasting springs, and where springs are scarce water may be easil}^ obtained b}^ digging. Between James and Finley is a prairie country, which produces the finest grain of any section of Southwest Mis- souri, with timber in abundance. There are now about 45,600 acres of the land of the county in cultivation, and produce to the acre, on an average, about as follows : corn, 40 bushels ; oats, 20 bushels ; wheat and lye, 15 bushels ; barley, 30 bushels. The grasses grow as well here as in the choicest parts of Kentuck3\ Apples, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, cherries, and other fruits grow as well as in any portion of the State. Wild grapes, whortleberries, and gooseberries are found in profusion. To the tobacco grower, no countiy offers more induce- ments than this county. The land is first class, and is being rapidly filled up l\y a hardy, industrious class of settlers. On the south side of Bull creek is a pineiy, con- sisting of 3,500 acres, in which there is one steam mill engaged in sawing lumber. On the breaks of Bull and Swan creeks are fine indica- tions of lead. In 1861 there was a large mining business MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 81 carried ou there, which was stopped by the late war. Now two large smelters are being built, and a large number of persons are making arrangements to open these deposits again. The ore is the finest quality of east-and-west min- eral, and is found at all depths. Many of the shafts pay from the surface. These mines and indications cover an area of about eighteen by twelve miles. There are three villages in the county : Ozark, the county seat, Kenton, and Swanville. The county, being on the Ozark range, has one of the healthiest locations of Southwest Missouri. 15Y HON. JAMES O. JONES. Christian count}' was first settled in 1840, and organized in 1860, having then a population of about 4,200. The first county court was composed of Judges Hall, Cornag, and Morley, and was held at Ozark. The whole county is well supplied with springs and streams of pure and soft water. The timber is chiefly oak, interspersed with maple, walnut, ash, linn, sycamore, and elm, with an undergrowth of blackberry, sumac, and hazel. About one-third of the whole surface is adapted to cultivation, the balance to grazing. There are now in good running order four grist mills, two saw mills, one cotton gin, two carding machines — all by water, and power to spare. But its chief source of prospective wealth is lead. Before the war there was smelted at the Bray Fur- nace not less than 600,000 pounds of ore. The furnace and diggings, until within a short time, stood just where the war left them, being the property- of absent rebels. The Bray Furnace is now in loj-al hands, who have com- menced operations. Another is being built on the fai-m owned by Mr. Burkhart. Fine samples of the mineral are found and dug all over that part of the count}', beginning 32 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. in tOAvnship 24, range 20, and extending eighteen miles to the county line. On section 16, township 24, range 20, a recent discovery was made which yielded to each hand 700 pounds of choice mineral per da}'. Bra3''s diggings produced, before the Avar, 000,000 pounds of mineral ; Roberts', 3,000 pounds; Buikhart's, 12,000 pounds; McFadden's, 20,000 pounds; Vratkins', 30,000 pounds; Haj-es', 1,500 pounds. On my own land, section G, town- ship 26, range 18, are two undeveloped discoveries ; but with such the county abounds. Here is a great field for experienced miners. The inhabitants are communicative and hospitable. This county has 100,000 acres of government lands subject to entry at $1.25. DADE COUNTY Embraces an area of 432 square miles, and is separated from the western line of the State b}' Barton, The face of the country is undulating, and in some places bro- ken. The western part is generally prairie, the eastern being more thickly timbered. The soil is fertile, and well adapted to the cultivation of all kinds of grain and fruits. The Sac river and its tributaries water the whole county, and furnish good water power for machinery, much of Avhich is yet unimproved. Copper, iron, and coal have been found in various parts of the county, and there are frequent indications of coal oil. Timber in abundance is found along the valleys, and is sufficient for all practical purposes. Grass grows in great profusion, and affords an abundant pasture for stock. Greenfield, the county seat, is pleasantly located, is rapidly improving, and supports a truly interesting and loyal paper, The Greenfield Vidette. MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 33 DALLAS COUNTY. I5Y A. ii. MADDEUX, COUNTY CLEKK. About one-fourlli of this couuty is beautiful prairie, the remainder timbered, with prairie vallej's interspersed. The Big Niangua river runs nearly north through the entire length of the county, with a number of tributaries. The country for three or four miles each side of the Niangua river is broken, but very well timbered. The river is about forty or fifty j^ards wide, with a swift current, and has an abundance of water at all seasons of the year to drive any ordinary machinery. There is a large quantity of prairie valley and hickory barren lands, affording a large quantity of arable land, adapted to the raising of corn, wheat, vye, oats, timothy, and herd grass ; and as fine fruit lands as any in the world, especially for apples, p6aches, pears, plums, and the grape, to the cultivation of which considerable attention is being paid. I believe Southwest ISIissouri is the best portion of the State, and Dallas covmty is the best in the Southwest for this purpose. Limestone and sandstone for building purposes abound. Cannel coal has been found. Lead is found in the valleys in various portions of the county, and is picked up on the borders of the streams. There arc several corn mills, and one planing mill, located on Big Spring, one of the largest springs in the State. There are 49,923 acres of improved land in the count}", and 89,317 of unimproved. The popu- lation is about 5,000. Stock raising is carried on to a considerable extent. To conclude, Dallas county has bet- ter water power, and more of it, than any couutj'^ in the State ; is the best fruit, grain and grass gi'owiug county ; a fine stock raising covmt}' ; good corn and wheat lands ; a fine climate, pure water, and a most healthy locality. 34 mSSOURI AND KANSAS. With our resources almost entirely undeveloped, this county offers rnre inducements to the industrious and thrifty emigrant, as well as the merchant or manufacturer. There are 100,000 acres of goverraent land in this county subject to entry, at $1.25 per acre. DOUGLAS COUNTY Is separated from the Arkansas line by Ozark county, and contains 540 square miles. The face of the country is roll- ing^and hill}'. The soil in the valleys is good for grains, fruits, etc., while the uplands are adapted to grazing. The great value of this county is in its extensive pineries, which are now furnishing lumber to the adjoining counties. It is well watered bj- the two eastern forks of AYhite river, which afford numerous locations for mills and machinery. There are 300,000 acres of the government land as j^et un- entered. Vera Cruz, the countj' seat, is situated on White river, near the center of the county. GREENE COUNTY. nY HON. S. H. BOYD. Greene county embraces about 688 square miles, mostly situated on the rolling plateaus of the mythical Ozark range, 1,500 feet above the level of the sea, and 797 feet higher than the city of St. Louis, from which it is distant about two hundred and forty miles. A central line from east to west, along the surve^-ed line of the Atlantic and Pacific Eailroad, will divide the waters of the Missouri from the Mississippi. At this day it would be approxi- mately true to divide the ceunty — two-thirds woodland, and one-third prairie ; one-half of the woodland being broken, and bearing much small, irregular shaped stone. This land gi'ows fine wild grasses, and in many places the MISSOUEI AND KANSAS. 3o economical fanner, by sowing blue grass and herd grass, makes it subservient to horses, mules and cattle for pas- turage, and it is the best of sheep pasturage. The remain- der of the woodland is known by the name of "hickory barrens" and "oak flats," and bottom lands lying along the various streams which water the count}-. The barrens and flats bear the finest yield and quality of chewing to- bacco. The bottoms yield a great abundance of grain, cereals, grasses, potatoes, and tobacco, not inferior in quantity and quality to any lands in the same latitude. The other one-third of the count}" is prairie, rich in soil and production to the highest degi-ee. James Fork of White river meanders through the southern portion of the county, and furnishes numerous sites for all kinds of ma- chinery. The count}' is wclf supplied with cool springs, which are but little warmer than ice water. About one- fifth of the farms are supplied with spring water, offering invaluable conveniences, especially to the stock raiser. Some very large springs afford a column powerful enough for mills of the mercantile class. The water power facilities of the county, which can be applied readily to machiner\', is second only in importance to the vast agricultural resources of the county. The num- ber of eligible water power sites is set down as thirty- three in the county, not embracing the large springs, which are little short of tAventy-five. The woodlands comprise the oak, walnut, wild cherry, hickorv, mulberry, redbud, linn, or basswood, hackberr}-, maple, and ash ; and is quite sufficient for all the wants of the surrounding country. The underbrush consists of the hawthorn, hazel, sumac, pawpaw, and dogwood, a- growtli which is evidence of the finest qualitv of soil. "Wild plums, crab apples, gooseberries, grapes, strawber- ries, blackberries, dewberries, haws, and raspberries, grow- profusely throughout the woodland and skirts of the prairie. 36 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. About 30,000 acres of laud are yet vacant, and subject to entry at the land office in Springfield. About 120,000 acres belong to the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad Com- pany, the greater part of which is the finest land in the county. It was drawn from the market about eighteen years ago. Now the Company, under the wise and far- seeing guidance of Gen. John C. Fremont, President, and Levi Parsons, Vice President, with J. P. Robinson, Chief Engineer, and Arrowsmith and Gen. Salomon, as Assist- ant Engineers, and an experienced Board of Directors, will soon place these lands in the market. Preparatory to this. Gen. Albert, Land Superintendent of the Com- pany, has already selected and appointed Messrs. Har- wood, Lisenbey & Co., at Springfield, to classify' and rate the lands of the Company. The bonds of the road, novr in the market at eighty cents, will be taken at par for these lands. Li fifteen months these lands will be in the market. It is to be b.oped that the wisdom of the Com- panj^ will make sale to actual residents and practical farmers. One of the Directors, an old citizen of Greene count}', is of the opinion that the Companv will sell its lands in this county to actual settlers, and secure them a patent from the State by executing the obligation of the Company to the purchaser upon the final paj^ment of the purchase mone3\ Messrs. Harwood, Lisenbey & Co.'s records of sales of lands show that prices paid for unim- proved land range from $5 to $30 per acre, and for im- proved from $S to S40 per acre, and that about $250,000 have been given for lands in the past six months. Fine limestone and cotton rock, for building, are found in ex- tensive quarries. Bituminous coal has been discovered about nine miles from Springfield. Ochre is found in the eastern part of the county, near the James Fork, and with it silver is supposed to be. There are about 100,000 acres of land in cultivation in MISSOURI AND KANSAS. Ot the count}', twenty-two Houring mills, eleven saw mills, and a population of 15,000, with a greater increase than over before experienced. Settlers from all the Northern and Eastern States are rapidly filling up the county. Wheat, corn, oats, r3'e, barlej^, tobacco, buckwheat, pota- toes, tlax, hay, blue grass, and clover, are the staple pro- ductions of the county. The average yield of wheat for ten years is twenty bushels ; thirty-five bushels have fre- quently been gathered from one acre. The crop has never been lost in the remembrance of the oldest citizen. 18GG will produce not less than 200,000 bushels. Corn aver- ages fort}' bushels per acre ; oats, forty bushels ; barley and buckwheat, twenty-five bushels ; potatoes, from fifty to four hundred bushels. Hemp grows from ten to fifteen feet high. The best chewing tobacco in the world is grown in Greene county; 1,200 pounds per acre of fine tobacco is an average crop, and 150,000 pounds will be raised this year. There is no valid reason or objection to this county as a stock-raising county. Old, life-long flock masters say that Southwest Missouri is superior to any part of the continent for sheep raising. Already, since Missouri is free, large flocks are being introduced into the county. There has been no feeding of stock of any kind yet (Dec. lith). Flocks are grazing and keep filled on the wild grasses. There will be no feeding of sheep till snow fails. There is no disease or sickness among sheep. Timothy grass averages two tons per acre. Clover and blue grass are not cared for to a great extent. Stock of all kinds is very much needed, there being but few brood mares, or any cattle, except sheep. This is the country for raising fine horses and mules. Immigrants would do well to bring stock horses and cattle. It is so well known to the country that this latitude surpasses all others for fruits, that it need only be remarked that there are many very fine nurseries in the county, and "every farmer has 38 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. more or less orchard, which has never been known to fail. Apples are kept any month in the year. Several vine- yards are in course of construction, and bid fair to be a success. Springfield, the county town, has now a popula. tion of about 3,000. Several academies and public schools, and all denominations of religionists have good, large, and commodious church buildings. There are forty or fift}^ business houses, doing a business of half a million aunu. ally. Brick manufacturers and mechanics will, without fail, have a fine field next year for their professions. The Atlantic and Pacific Kailroad survey runs now to the northern limits of the city. In the county there are fift}^- one schools, with an aggregate of 2,700 scholars. There are two well-conducted, orderly colored schools, which are largely attended by old and young, and are encouraged and appreciated by all of our citizens. There are twenty post oflices in the county ; daily, tri-weekly and weekly mails, to all points. The land office is re-established here and doing a handsome business. The climate is mild and gentle. The average depth of water iu the month of Jan- uary is less than two inches. There are few snows ; no heavy winds or storms have been experienced for a num- ber of years. Perfect peace and quiet throughout the county. The people of Southwest Missouri are now and ever will be a loj^al, radical, and progressive element iu Missouri politics. HENEY COUNTY Is separated from the Kansas line b}^ Benton and Cass counties, and has an area of 720 square miles. The face of the country is rolling, and is principall}^ prairie, but with sufficient timber along the numerous streams. The soil is very productive. Tebo and Grand rivers, with their tribu.taries, afibrd an abundance of water. Stone for build- MISSOURI AND KANSAS. "9 ing purposes is plenty. Coal is found in all parts of the county. Clinton, the county seat, is pleasantly located and prosperous. The Fort Scott and Sedalia Railroad is located through the county. To all enterprising men, Henry county offers comfortable and pleasant homes, and wealth and prosperity. In politics the people are intensely loyal. HICKORY COUNTY Has an area of 284 square miles, and is situated in the northeast of Avhat is general^ called Southwest Missouri. The country is principally undulating and hillj', but the soil is fertile. About one-third of the county is prairie, the remainder timbered. All kinds of grain and fruit do well in the prairies and bottoms. Fine indications of lead, iro», and oil abound. The county is well watered bj" the Nian- gua and Pomme de Terre, which run thi-ough it from south to north, affording an abundance of water power. A small amount of government land is yet unentered. Hermitage is the county seat. JASPER COUNTY. BY HON. JOHN M. RICHARDSON. This county lies on the western boundary of the State, and forty miles north of the Arkansas line. It is twenty- one miles north and south, and thirt^'-two east and west, containing 672 square miles, and 450,560 acres of land. The county may be considered with regard to its agricul- tural capacity^ its mineral ivealth, and icater j^oicer. Its topography is moderately undulating, sufficiently so to drain the surface well. There are no high, precipitous hills or flat morasses. At the commencement of the rebel- lion, this county was rich in live stock, such as horses, mules, cattle, hogs, and sheep. Its population consisted 40 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. of about one thousand families- — its people were prosperous and happy. The civil war desolated the county. At the end of the rebellion, there remained only about forty fami- lies. Houses and farms were mostly burned. Carthage, the county seat, was entirely destroyed. Peace being- restored, the county is fast filling up with an active, ener- getic, and moral population. During the war, a hundred thousand Northern soldiers marched over its beautiful prairies ; they were pleased with its fine soil and mild cli- mate, and a great many of these men arc now purchasing homes for themselves and families in this county. At this time seventy families are living in tents around Carthage Avaiting for lumber with which to build houses. The lead field of the Southwest crops out in the southwest part of this county. It is here that the indications are strongest of immense deposits of lead in Southwest Missouri. The mine belonging to the heirs of James' estate, on Centre Creek, is considered b^- good judges to be the best lead mine in the State. It, however, has not yet been fully tested by mining operations. Geology justifies the belief that the southwest part of the county is rich in mineral wealth. The soil of the county is of three qualities — the black, coarse-grained limestone land ; the red or mulatto limestone land, and the black, coarse-grained land in the sandy formation, overlying a portion of the great Missouri coal field in the northwest part of the county. The south half of the county is the black, coarse-grained limestone soil. It is very rich, and produces on an average from 40 to 55 bushels of corn to the acre ; from 20 to 30 bushels of wheat and rye, and 30 bushels of oats. The soil of the sandy formation is about the same as to strength as the black, coarse-grained limestone. The north and northeast part of the county is of the red or mulatto limestone. This is the best wheat land in the United States — it has pro- duced, with good cultivation, 40 bushels of wheat to the MISSOUKI AND KANSAS. 41 acre, weighing QG pounds to the measured bushel. The soil of the count}' is well adapted to the raising of timothy and Hungarian grass for hay, and blue grass for summer and winter pasture. The blue grass grows about three feet long, forming a thick mat on the ground, and, if not pastured in summer, makes a splendid winter pasture. The county produces the best of fruit, such as apples, peaches, quinces, apricots, pears, plums, etc., etc. The apple is a sure and profitable crop. There are in the county several apple orchards that are not surpassed b}' any in the United States for yield and quality. The quality and flavor of the apples and peaches produced in this county last season were superior to an}' the writer could laid in the New York, Philadelphia, or "Washington City markets. In addition to the fruits mentioned, the smaller varieties are cultivated with great profit, such as the currant, gooseberry, rasp- berr}', and blackberr}^ The wild strawberry, of remarkable size and fine fiavor, grows in profusion, but has not been cultivated. There is a small belt of land south of Spring river, upon which the native grape grows nearly as large as the cultivated grape at Hermann or Cincinnati, and the flavor of which is as good as the cultivated grape of either of those places. The soil of this county is from two to five feet thick, having a sub-soil of clay, intermixed widi gravel. In the north and northeast part of the county, there is, several feet under the surface, a bed of claj', which, if thrown up and exposed to the frosts of a couple of win- ters, makes a first-rate fertilizer for the soil. It is an excellent manure. The county is well watered, having a great manj' springs of pure, fresh, limestone water. There are scA'cral large streams ; Spring river and Turkc}' creek run through the count}' from east to west. There are also the Big and Little North Forks, Dry Fork, AVhite Oak, Jones', Centre, Turkey, and Short creeks. All these streams furnish fine water power. Spring river, at Car- 42 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. thage, is 90 feet wide, and 30 inches deep, running with a A'elocity of a foot to the second. There is a good water power for every two miles of this river. Centre creek, though not so large, is a fine stream for machinery. Ten years will make this the richest county in agricul- tural and manufacturing wealth. It has the soil upon which to grow the cotton, hemp, and wool, and the water power to manufacture it into fabrics. The streams are skirted with good timber, such as oak, walnut, hickory and cherry. The northwest portion of the county is un- derlaid by a part of the great Missouri coal field, which crosses the county from northeast to southwest ; under that part of the county are three beds or layers of the finest cannel coal in the West. Along each of the streams are bottoms of rich, alluvial soil, varying in width from one- fourth to three-fourths of a mile. The bottoms of Spring river and Centre creek are from one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide ; they are very rich, and, with good culti- vation, produce one hundred bushels of cornto the acre. The county is well Avatered, the soil is rich, the climate mild, and the countiy health3\ There is timber sufficient to answer all necessary purposes. Previous to the rebel- lion a farmer, without slaves or hired help, calculated to support his family off his little farm, and sell every fall five head of mules or horses for from $600 to $800. That was a good income on the labor of one man, particularly as he did not labor more than fom* hours a day on an ave- rage the year round. The county at this time has four good steam saw mills, and five grist and flouring mills. The towns are Carthage, Medoc, Preston, Avilla, Fidelity, and Sarcoxie — all good business points, surrounded by good neighborhoods. Land in this county has continued to rise gradually from the close of the rebellion ; it rates at this time from $3 to $25 per acre. Unimproved prairie lands sell at fi'om $3 to $10 per acre, owing to the loca- MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 43 tiou. Jasper is a desirable countj^ for residence ; it is recommended by its soil, water, health, and mildness of climate. It is tlie climate which so materially aids the farmer. There is not a dram shop iii the county ; the people prefer schools ; the public school fund is about one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. LACLEDE COUNTY Has an area of 476 square miles, was formed from a part of Pulaski county in 1849, and named after the honored founder of St. Louis. The face of the country is gene- rally rolling and hilly, with occasional level prairies. The soil is productive, and all kinds of grain and fruit gi'ow to perfection. The county is well watered by fine springs, and the Gasconade river runs through a large portion of it. Good building stone is plenty. Iron, lead, and cop- per have been found, and will prove of great value to the county at no distant day. The Atlantic and Pacific Rail- road will traverse it, and is now being rapidl}' built. The population is about 5,000. Lebanon, the county town, is in a prosperous condition, and growing rapidly. There are a number of wholesale and retail stores, and a flour- ishing academy-. The Lebanon Advocate, a weekl}' news- paper, worthily represents a loyal and atti'active county. There are 100,000 acres of government land yet subject to entry in this county. LAAYRENCE COUNTY Is separated from Arkansas by Barry county, and from Kansas by Jasper and Newton, and contains 404,000 acres. The face of the country is principall}^ rolfing, in some places hill}', but well diversified with prairie and timber. The soil and climate is very favorable to mixed farming, 44 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. all kinds of gTain, fruit, and stock. The valleys are par- ticularly productive, while the high prairies are unsur- passed for grazing. It is bountifully supplied with water by streams which are fed by large and clear springs. In several instances a single spring furnishes available water power. The best of timber is plenty, Avith a heavy under- growtli of hazel and sumac. Wild fruits of all kinds grow in profusion. Limestone and sandstone of the best quality is abundant. No coal. Iron and lead in small quantities. The location is very healthy, Mt. Vernon, the county seat, has a population of about 1,000, was but little injured dur- ing the war, and presents an attractive appearance. Mcdonald county Is located in the southwest corner of the State ; is bounded on the south by the Arkansas line, and on the west by the Indian Territory. Its area is 480 square miles. The face of the country is generally rolling and hilly. The valleys are very productive, and yield abundantly to the agricul- turalist, while the uplands are well timbered, and are good for pastures. The county is well watered by the Ellc riA'er, and Big and Little Sugar, Indian and Buffalo creeks, and their tributaries. Several extensive pineries contribute to the wealth of the county. The Atlantic and Pacific Railroad has a large amount of good land here. Pineville, the county seat, is situated at the head of Elk river. The population of the county is about 2,000. There are 100,000 acres of government land subject to entry in this countv. NEWTON COUNTY Joins the Indian Territory on the west, is separated from Arkansas by McDonald count}-, and contains 650 square miles. The surface is generally undulating, and in some places hilly, with nearly an equal quantity of prairie and MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 45 timber. The soil is generally fertile, and all kinds of grain and fruits are produced abundantly-. It is wel watered b}^ Shoal, Hickory, Cedar, and Buffalo creeks, and their tributaries. On Shoal creek is a great deal of fine water power yet unimproved. Stone for building purposes is plenty. The chief source of wealth of New- ton count}- lies in its mineral deposits. Copper and silver are found in considerable quantities. Of lead, there is great abundance. Moseley's diggings, ten miles north- west from Neosho, the county seat, are very rich with lead and silver. But Granby, in the eastern part of the count}-, is the principal mineral point of Southwest Mis- souri. Extensive mines, employing 300 miners, are being successfully worked. Granby is a flourishing town, has the finest hotel west of St. Louis, "The Blow House ; " and the Granby Mining Company have erected, and now opened, the largest mercantile establishment in this part of the State. Newtonia, five miles cast of Granby, is a neat and thriving town. This county is rapidly filling up with ap intelligent and industrious people. There are 50,000 acres of government land yet unentered in this county. OZATIK COUNTY Is situated in the southeastern part of the State, on the Arkansas line. It is A'cry well watered, and its streams afford excellent water power. The surface of the country is very much broken, and in some portions mountainous. Most of the county is covered with fine timber, chiefly oak, hickory, and yellow pine. Pine timber is its principal commodity. Farming is carried on to limited extent, but pays well. Its mineral resources are undoubtedly great. There are tweh-e mills in the county. Game of all kinds is abundant. Gainesville is the county seat. There are 300,000 acres of government land in this county, subject to entry at $1.25 per acre. 46 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. POLK COUNTY Has an area of 576 square miles. The surface is gener- ally undulating, in some places hilly, with about an equal quantity of prairie and timber. The Pommc de Terre river and its tributary creeks drain the eastern part of the count}"-, while the Sac and its tributaries water the western. Good springs are numerous and clear. The uplands consist chie% of limestone soil, which produces fruits, wheat, rye, oats, barley, etc., alnmdantl}', while the yallej's of the streams consist of alluvial soil of remarka])le fertility. Timber, of all the varieties found in Southwest Missouri, is plenty. Limestone, sandstone, and cotton rock, for building purposes, is found in large quantities. Lead has been found in the northeastern part of the county. Bolivar, the count}' seat, has a population of 700 ; is a thriving town, and sujiports a weekly news- paper. The Bolivar Sentinel. Population of the county, G,500. They claim to have 44 school houses and 20 churches in the county, which sjjeaks well for the morals and intellio-ence of the inhabitants. ST. CLAIR COUNTY Is situated in the northwest of what is generally termed Southwest Missouri, and is separated from the Kansas line by Bates and Vernon counties. The face of the country is undulating, and well diversified with prairie and timber. The soil is generally fertile and well adapted to all the purposes of the farmer or stock grower. Iron ore is found in this county, and there are promising indi- cations of lead, coal and oil. The Osage river traverses the county from southwest to northeast, and, Avith tribu- tary rivers and creeks, furnishes plent}"- of excellent water. Osceola, the county seat, is situated near the center of the county, on the Osage ri-\'er, which is navigable up to MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 47 this point during the greater part of the year. This is a flourishing town, and supports a number of wholesale houses, and an enterprising and loyal newspaper — The Osceola Herald. No county in the Southwest has a more enterprising population, or can offer greater inducements to the iraniiffrant. STONE COUNTY. Borders on the Arkansas line, and has an area of about 400 square miles. The surface is generally broken, and in some places mountainous. Timber covers about three- fourths of the county, and consists chiefl}' of oak, hickory, pine, and cedar. The pineries are large and of fine qual- ity. The bottoms of the numerous streams are very pro- ductive. White river, with its many branches, furnishes excellent water in abundance, and numerous mill sites. indications of lead and iron are frequent and promising. No mines yet opened. Galena, the county seat, is situa- ted on White river. There are yet remaining 200.000 acres of government land in the county. TANEY COUNTY. Is situated on the Arkansas line. The face of the countiy is broken and hilly, and the soil better adapted to stock raising and fruit culture than to ordinary farming. The greater part of the county is covered with forests of oak, hickory, and pine of great size. It is excellently^ watered by White river and its numerous tributary creeks, which also furnish fine water power for all manufacturing pur- poses. But the chief source of prosperity to Taney county lies in its minerals. Iron, copper, zinc, lead, and other minerals, are found in large quantities. Lead is especially abundant, and diggings pay from the surface. 48 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. Recent discoveries along Swan creek have revealed new " leads," which are astonishingly rich. In one well authen- ticated instance, two men, with an old axe and a sharp stick as mining tools, dug fourteen hundred pounds of the ISest quality of lead ore in one day ! Little, if any, systematic mining has been heretofore attempted, but nov,' prepara- tions are being made by responsible companies to develop this great source of wealth. There are 200,000 acres of government land subject to entry. Forsythe, the county seat, is situated on White river. VERNON COUNTY Is situated in the northwest corner of Southwest Missouri, bordering on the Kansas line. The face of the countr}- is gently undulating, the greater part consisting of prairie, with a sufficient amount of timber interspersed. Good water is abundantly supplied by numerous streams. The soil is rich and very inviting to the farmer and stock- grower. The greater part of the county is underlaid by the best of coal, and there are strong indications of petro- leum. Vernon county suffered severely during the war ; but since peace has returned, is being rapidly filled up bj' an intelligent and industrious class of settlers. Nevada City, the county seat, is a flourishing and attractive town. WEBSTER COUNTY Is situated in the eastern part of »Southwest Missouri, and has an area of about 550 square miles. The face of the country is principalh^ rolling and hill3\ The valleys and part of the uplands are fertile, and jield large crops of corn, wheat, tobacco, etc. More attention has been paid to stock raising than to any other branch of farming, and has been very profitable. All kinds of fruits grow to per- MISSOURI AKD KANSAS. 49 fection. Plentj^ of timber, principally oak and hickory. Building stone is abundant. Iron, copper, and lead have been found. A recent discovery of lead on Panther creek is said to be very rich. Water is plenty. The Atlantic and Pacific Railroad crosses this county, and owns a large amount of the best farming and mineral land in the county. Marshfield is the county seat, and is pleasantly' located. The Marshfield Yeoman^ a weekly newspaper, is a credit to the town aiid count}'. Thei'e are yet 100,000 acres of government lands for entr^'. WEIGHT COUNTY Is situated in the eastern part of Southwest Missouri, and is one of the highest counties of the Ozark range. The surface is hilly, and in places mountainous. The valleys of the streams, Avhich afford the country a plentiful supply- of water, are rich and productive. The hills are adapted to grazing, and generally covered with a fine growth of timber, chiefly oak and pine. vStone, for building, is found in abundance. Iron, lead, and copper exist in the county, but no mining has yet been attempted. Hartville, the county seat, is situated on Wood's Fork of the Gasconade river, and is steadih' recovering from the effects of the late war. 200,000 acres of land are yet subject to entr^'. 50 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. T ABLE Exhibiting the Population in 1860, the amotini of Unentered Government Land, and the Minerals existing in each Counttf in the State. ADAIR ANDREW ATCHISON AUDRAIN BARRY BARTON BATES BENTON BOLLINGER BOONE BUCHANAN BUTLER CALDWELL CALLAWAY CAMDEN CAPE GIRARDEAU CARROLL CARTER CASS CEDAR CHARITON CHRISTIAN CLARKE CLAY CLINTON COLE COOPER CRAWFORD DADE DALLAS DAVIESS DEKALB DENT DOUGLAS DUNKLIN FRANKLIN GASCONADE GENTRY GREENE GRUNDY HAKRISON HENRY HICKORY HOLT HOWARD HOWELL IRON JACKSON JASPER JEFFERSON JOHNSON KNOX LACLEDE LAFAYETTE 300,000 50,000 200,000 20,000 50,000 Lead. Coal. CoaL Copper and Lead. Kaolin, Pipe Clay, Fire Clay. Iron. Coal, Marble. Big Cave, Lead, Iron. Marble. Lead, Coal, Mounds, Oil Springs. Iron, Copper. Oil Spring, Coal. Coal. Coal. Iron, Lead, Copper. Coal . Lead, Coal. Iron, Coal, Lead, Chouteau Springs. 80,000jlron, Lead, Copper, Coal. 30,000!lron, Copper, Coal. 100,000 Copper. 300,000 14,000 6,000 30,000 4,560 50,000 100,000 Copper, Iron, Mounds. Lead. Iron, Lead, Copper, Alabaster. Saltpetre Caves . Copper, Coal. Iron, Lead, Copper, Caves. Iron, Coal. Iron, Lead. Lead, Coal. SIron, Lead, Gold, Marble, Kaolin, } Platina, Nickel, Granite, Emery. Lead, Zinc. Iron, Lead, Copper, White Sand. Coal, Manganese. Iron, Lead, Bryce's Spring. Iron, Lead, Copper, Coal. MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 51 LAWRENCE.. LEWIS LINCOLN LINN LIVINGSTON. MACON MADISON MARIES... MARION McUONALU MERCER MILLEU MISSISSIPPI MONITEAU MONROE MONTGOMERY . MORGAN NEW MADRID.. NEWTON NODAWAY OREGON OSAGE OZAPJv PEiVIISCOT PERRY PETTIS PHELPS PIKE PLATTE POLK. 11,865 7,36.3 7,624 3,886 8,904 5,136 3,428 7,650 4,834 '2,919 9,266 7,516 5,U97 14,165 15,119 10,030 PULASKI I' 3,835 1860. 8,772 10,419 11,362 8,5.55 6,833 14,710 5,338 15,782 4,875 SIIXERALS. 75, coo; Coal. iCoaL 1,480 Coal. Copper, Co.il. 7,000} ! ^Iron, Lead, Copper, Zinc, Gold, i (Silver, Tin, Nickel. 27, 000 1 Iron, Lead, Copper. ; iCoal, Pipe Clay, Fire Clay. 3 ; 976 200 , 000 : Lead , Caves . 9,286 (Keported) Co.al, Iron, and Coi)per. 6,076 75,000 Lead, Iron, Coal. 3,762 j 10,202 iLead, Coal, Iron. 50,000 Coal . Lead. ■Lead, Coal, Csives. I Lead, Zinc. 300,000 PUTNAM. KALLS RANDOLPH RAY REYNOLDS RIPLEY' ST. CHARLES ST. CLAIR ST. FRANCOIS STE. GENEVIEVE. ST. LOUIS SALINE SCHUYLER SCOTLAND SCOTT SHANNON SHELBY STODDARD STONE SULLIVAN TANEY TEXAS VERNON WARREN WASHINGTON WAY'NE WEBSTER WORTH WRIGHT 20,000 57,000 195,000 10,000 9,209 6,1.54 8,838 12,050 3,266 8,618 14,370 6,256 7,. 549 7,199 182,857 10,120 6,882 9,170 4,744 1,972 6,942 7,942 2,333 9.235 3,540 6,071 4,920 7,782 8,034 5,086 6,8801100,000 200,800 300,000 100,000 Lead, Copper. Iron, Lea Lacleile 8 ■Webster 10 Kirkwood 13 JJarrett's 16 Meramec 19 Gravel S witch "22 St. Paul 24 Gravel Switch 2.) Glencoe 20 VValdstcin Switch 28 Eureka 30 AUentou ,32 Dozier Switch 34 Franklin 37 Gray's Summit 41 Labadie 44 South Point .'j2 Washington 54 Newport 62 Miller's Landing 67 Berger 75 Hermann 81 Gasconade 88 Chamois 100 St. Aubert 105 L'Ours Creek 109 Bounot's Mill 112 Osage 117 Jefl'erson City 125 Scott 132 Lookout 140 California 1.50 Tipton 163 Syracuse 168 Otterville 176 SmithviUe 181J Sedalia 189 Dresden. . .'. 106 Knobnoster 208 Warreusburgh 218 Holden 233 Krigsville 237 Pleasant Hill 249 Lee's Summit 2«1 Independence 274 Kansas City 283 ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC RAILROAD. Frankl in Catawissa 4* Calvey Ol Moselle ll| St. Clair 18 Staunton 28 Sullivan 33} Bourbon 40 Stations. Harrisou 45^ Cuba 53 Knobview. 60i St. James 66 Dillon 71 Rolla 76i Little Piney 88 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. NORTH MISSOURI RAILROAD. 53 Miles. Stations. Miles. MUes. Stations. Miles. 107 Mexico 107 4 Bellet'ontaiue 300 121 Ccntralia 183 139 Itenick 165 146 Allen 158 13 Bridgton 291 157 Jacksonville 147 168 Iluilson l-JH 173 Bevier 131 20 St Charles iSl 177 Callao 127 1!)2 Bucklin 112 33 O'Fallon 271 19S St. Catharine 106 37 PeiTuque 267 4-2 Wentzville 262 48 Millville 256 51 Wii"-l)t's 'iriS 202 Brooktield 102 207 Laclede !»7 22S Chillicothe 76 233 Utica 71 254 Hamilton 50 72 Ili-li Hilt 232 76 Florence 228 275 Osborn... 29 292 Easton 12 W Martinsburg 210 304 St. Joseph IRON MOUNTAIN RAILWAY. Stations. Miles. St. Louis 86 1 Lanii street 85 6 Carondelet 80 8 Ivory's 78 10 Jeflersoa Barracks 77 14 Grimslcv's 72 18 Jellerson 68 21 Kimuiswick 65 21 Windsor Harbor 65 23 Sulphur Springs (m 26 Illinois 60 27 Peevly 59 30 Porines .56 35 Hematite 51 39 Victoria 47 42 De Soto •. 44 47 Tunnel 39 .50 Blackwell's 36 57 Cadet 29 61 Mineral Point 25 65 Hopewell 21 69 Irondale 17 74 Blairsville 12 81 Iron Mountain 6 m Middle Brook 3 86 Pilot Knob CAIRO AND FULTON RAILROAD. Miles. Stations. Miles. Miles. Stations. :Miles. Cairo 37 "0 Scoville.... 17 1 Bird's Point Mo . 36 33 18 26 Sikestown 31 Hamilton 33 Little River 11 G Harrison's 8 Fish Lake 31 29 24 19 6 4 13 Charleston 37 Builin'j"ton 18 Bertrand 54 MISSOURI AXD KANSAS. HANNIBAL AND ST. JOSEPH RAILROAD. Stations. Miles. Hannibal 200 10 IJarklcy 19(; It Palmyra 192 30 Monroe , 170 37 Hunnewell 10f» 47 Shelbiua ISO .59 Clarence 147 67 Carbon 139 70 Hudson KK 75 Bevier 131 79 Callao 127 91 B..cklin 112 Miles. Stations 100 St. Catharine 10(i 10-t Brookfield 102 109 Laclede S>7 130 Cliillicothe 7(> 135 Utica 71 145 Breckenridge (51 156 Hamilton .50 171 Cameron 35 177 Osborn 29 185 Stewartsville 21 194 Easton 12 200 St. Josepli The Platte County Railroad is in operation from St. Josepli through Halls, Rushville, Winthrop, Sugar Creek, Atcliison, latan, to Weston. Distance, 37 miles. DISTANCE FROM ST. LOUIS TO SIOUX CITY BY RIVER. Stations Mouth Mi.ssouri River 20 JJollefontaiue Bend 5 25 Charbonicr 10 35 St. Charles 10 45 Howard Bend 12 57 Howell's Ferry 5 02 Dozier ' s 5 07 Tav'ern Rock 2 09 St. Albans 1 70 Murdock' s Woodyard 3 73 Augusta " 3 76 .Jones Point 3 78 South Point 4 82 Wasliington 1 83 St. .Jolni's Islau'l 4 87 Newport Landing 2 89 ITe.atherley's Woodyard. ... 8 97 Miller's Landing... 1 1 98 Pinkney and Griswold's. . . . 3 101 Bates' Woodyard 10 111 Hermann 10 121 Mouth Gasconade 8 129 Monning's Landing 2 131 Portland 10 141 Fisher's Woodyard 5 146 St. Aubert 5 151 Month Osage 13 104 Mouth Mofeau 5 109 -TeU'erson City 5 174 C;laysvdle 7 isi Marion 10 191 Eureka Landing 5 196 Martin's Landing 2 198 Nashville 7 205 Stations. Miles. Providence 2 207 Mount Vernon 5 212 Kocheport 8 220 Boonville 12 232 Mouth Lamine 8 240 Arrow Rock 8 248 Little Arrow Rock 7 2.55 BluffPort 6 261 Glasgow 4 265 Cambridge 9 274 Keytesville Landing 10 284 Buckhorn Point 8 292 Brunswick 8 300 Grand River 1 301 Windsor City 7 308 Miami 7 315 Thomas' Woodyard 6 321 Ilill'sLanding 20 341 St. Thomas and Waverly.. . 5 346 Dover Lauding 13 .359 liCxington 12 371 FarmviUe Landing 1 372 Wellington 7 379 Camden 10 389 Napoleon 8 .397 Cogswell's Landing 5 402 Sibley 5 407 Richfleld 14 421 El Paso Landi ng 8 429 Liberty 7 430 ^Vayne City 7 443 Randolph 8 4.51 Kansas 4.57 Kansas River 3 459 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. I'iirkvillc 13 472 Little Platte River 1 473 N'auRaukins IG 4S9 Leavenworth 8 497 I'latte City Lasniing 3 50-2 Weston 4 SOG Kickapoo 7 51-2 Atchison 20 .v;2 Columbus Landing 6 550 Mavsville 6 556 Hart's Lauding 10 5GG ^t. Joseitli 25 581 Hellemont (Steam Ferry)... 4 5S5 Vonton 4 589 Savannah Landing 10 599 Sultan 3 G03 Dallas 10 G13 Lower Oregon 12 G25 Iowa Point 7 632 Upper Oregon 1 633 White Cloud 10 643 Big Nimeha 10 653 RushBottom 10 663 Marietta 10 673 St. Stephens 2 675 Lowell 5 680 Hemmes 1 681 San Deroine « 689 Morgan Island 5 694 Miles. Nimeha City 2 096 Rockport 6 702 Brownsville 2 704 Sun Island 5 709 Sonora 1 710 Linden 15 725 Sidney Landing 1 720 Nebraska City l.s 7U Wyoming 11 755 Kenosha 20 775 Rock Bluff. 10 785 Bethleham 6 791 Plattsmouth 1 792 La Platte 7 799 St. Mary's 6 805 Belleview 6 811 Council Bluffs, lower 7 818 Council Bluffs 10 828 Omaha City 2 830 Florence 10 840 Crescent City 10 840 De Soto 40 880 Tekaniah 35 915 Little Sioux 10 925 Decatur 35 960 Blackbird Hills 30 990 Omadi 30 1020 Sargent's Bluffs 10 1030 Sioux City 20 1050 TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM ST. LOUIS TO NEW ORLEANS BY THE RIVER. Stations. St. Louis to Jefferson Barracks.. 12 Herculaneum 30 Selnia 36 Ste. Genevieve 59 Kaskaskia Landing 65 Mouth Kaskaskia River 80 Chester 84 Grand Tower 130 Bainbridge 140 Cape Girardeau 1,56 Commerce 172 Cairo 207 Columbus 225 Mills' Point 240 New Madrid 283 Island 11 287 Needham ' s Cut-off" 341 Plumb Point .361 Fulton 371 Mouth of Hatchic 377 Randolph ■ 382 Stations. Miles. Memphis 447 Commerce 487 Helena 532 Napoleon 642 Gaiues' Landing 682 Columbia '. 702 Greenville 714 Port Worthiugtoii 74-1: Grand Lake 749 Ashtou 764 Lake Providence 774 Milliken's Bend 824 Vicksburg 849 Grand Gulf 899 Rodney 917 Natchez 977 Mouth Red River 1037 Bayou Sara 1077 Baton Rouge 1112 Plaqueniine 1137 New Orleans 1247 GENERAL DESCRIPTIOiN OF KANSAS. Kansas is bounded on the north by Nebraska, on the east by Missouri, on the south by the Indian Territory, and on the west by Colorado. Tlie State has an area of 41,580 square miles, or 26,611,200 acres of land, to the first guide meridian west. It has fortj^-five counties al- readj^ organized, and considerable territor^^ yet to be laid off as soon as the population justifies it. The topography is somewhat varied, yet beautiful, there being no ver}^ high hills or extended ridges, or mountains. Through the northeastern portion of the State there is a constant chain of small ridges running along the Missouri river from Wyandotte to White Cloud, in Brown county ; and as the traveler goes westward,- the hills diminish in size until the whole face of the country becomes gentl}'^ undu- lating. Farther south in the State, we find in the eastern counties mounds or ridges, until south of Fort Scott, when they gradually disappear, and the surface of the country is gently rolling. The State is entirely devoid of swamps and marshes, consequently it is all tillable land, adapted to raising all kinds of grain, and for the rearing of stock. Along the Missouri river and its tributaries timber is plentiful, principally of oak, Cottonwood, walnut, and elm. Back from the river, in the northern tier of counties, it becomes scarce, except on the many small streams that course through the countrj^ On the Kansas, Osage, and Neosho rivers, and their numerous tributaries, plenty of MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 57 timber of good quality, such ns oak, walnut, and cotton- wood, is to be found. The timber on Spring river and Cow creek, in southern Kansas, is of the first and finest quality. SOIL. The soil in the northern counties is black, coarse, lime- stone soil, and produces most excellent crops. Through the center of the State it is black lime, mixed with sand, and is also good. While further south the soil is not so dark, but more of the red or mulatto "soil, so famous tlu'oughout the southwest portion of Missouri. On the river and creek bottoms it is a black, sand}' soil. The red or mulatto soil produces the best wheat west of the Mississippi river. The three different kinds of soil mentioned constitute the principal soils throughout the State. No one will ever object to Kansas on account of soils, for it is rich in ever}^ part of the State, and corn, wheat, oats, rye, barley, and all kinds of grain and vegetables do well. There is not a section of land in the State that is not adapted to farming purposes. And along the Kansas river especially the country is most desirable, it having a railroad running from Wyandotte, on the Missouri river, to Saline in the west, and with a road from Leavenworth intersecting the the main branch of the Pacific Road at Lawrence. The LTnioii Pacific Railway Company has over one million acres of choice farming lands for sale, at prices varying from one dollar to twent}^ dollars per acre. MINERALS. Kansas abounds in minerals of all kinds. Building stone, of sand and lime, is found in quarries in almost every county in the State, and can be used for building purposes, or for fencing, at a very small expense. We noticed in our travels throus-h the State that the eastern 58 MISSOtJRl AND KANSAS- settlers know how to use this stone to an economical advantage. Coal is plentiful thi'oughout the center and southern counties, and oil is being discovered in a few places. Salt wells are operated in Miami count}', and are yielding a good profit. There is but little known as yet of the mineral wealth of Kansas. Professor Swallow is now making out the geological survey of the State. Ores of all kinds are thought to be scarce. A very valuable marble quarr3% called " Black Egyptian Marble," is found at Fort Scott, in Bourbon count}-, and they have a factory there, where they are testing its quality with very satis- factor}' results. AVATKR. The principal river is the Kansas, or Kaw, and its tribu- taries ; and from the 97 meridian westward, the Arkansas flows about a degree north of the southern boundary. The general direction of this latter river is from west to east. Its principal tributaries within Kansas are the Neosho, Verdigris, and Little Arkansas, all large streams. The Kansas river falls into the Missouri at Wyandotte, and with its numerous affluents, drains a vast surface. Its length is about 600 miles. The Osage, another large stream, drains the country between the Kansas and Ar- kansas rivers. It has many consideral)le branches, which drain a rich and well timbered section. It flows through the whole length of the Sac and Fox Indian Reservations, the lands of which are celebrated for the richness of their soil. COVERNMKXT LANPS. The government yet owns land in almost every county in the State, and millions of acres in the State are j-et lying vacant, to be homesteaded at $10 for 160 acres, or subject to entry at $1 25 per acre. The land that is still open to entry is as fertile as am^ that is in cultivation. See Homestead Law in another part of this publication. MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 59 COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES. There is 275 miles of railroad completed and iu running order, comprising the Missouri River Railroad, a portion of the Atchison and Pike's Peak, Leavenworth and Law- rence, and the Union Pacific. The latter is now being constructed at the rate of 200 miles per annum. The most important railroads projected are the Leavenworth, Law- rence and Galveston, Kansas and Neosho Valley Road, Union Pacific South Brancli, Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe. The government has endowed these roads liberally with lands. In addition to these, there is the Platte Country Railroad. The Missouri river also affords a highwaj' for commerce. The advantages of Kansas are far superior to those of Ohio and Indiana iu the early days in a commer- cial point of view, which will brighten the home of the industrious immigi-aut as he settles within her limits. SCHOOLS. Schools arc conducted in this State on the broad, liberal, free school system, similar to the school law of Ohio and Indiana, and are in a prosperous condition throughout the settled portion of the State. The Normal School at Em- poria, Lyon county, is a flourishing institution of learning for the purpose of educating young ladies and gentlemen for teaching. There are several academies and seminaries throughout the State — one at Lecompton, one at Lawrence, one at Leavenworth, ouc at Ottumwa. and a commercial college at Topeka. CHURCHES. The difterent sects are fully represented in the difllerent parts of the State, and are all in a flourishing condition. TWO YEARS' TRAVEL RESIDENCE IN MISSOURI AND KANSAS. CHAPTER I. Introductory — A Nioht at West Qlixcy — A Happy Couple — Rail- road Adventure, the Iron Horse Gives Out, Bushwhackers — Arrival at Macon — Dry Jokes — St. Joseph, its Prosperity — Weston — Steamer Emily — Arrival at Leavenworth. The traveler in foreign lands has unquestionably a more conspicuous and attractive field than the home tourist. The more remote the field, the more perilous the adven- tures encountered in passing over it, the more fascinating the traveler's story. While polar zones, Northern Africa, Central Africa, and unknown localities generally have the preference with the reading public, it is nevertheless true that much valuable information may be gleaned in field,s nearer home. These nearer fields have, beside, a greater and prior claim upon the seeker of knowledge. His edu- cation, in this respect, should commence at home. A knowledge of his own country, its climate, resources, phj'sical features, population, customs, laws, etc., should be an essential and indispensable part of his course of stud}'. It is not so. "We not unfrequently meet with persons who know more about Madagascar and Kamt- schatka than they do of their own land. A learned pun- dit, who prided himself on knowing the exact height of. Chimborazo, and the number of islands in the Grecian Archipelago, was utterly discomfited by the question as to MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 61 the whereabouts of "Bear Grass." He knew the outliue of foreign shores, was familiar with outlandish names and places, but of "Bear Grass," a stream that flowed not a score of miles from his own home, he had never heard. We are happy in knowing that of late years more atten- tion is being given to the geography of om' own coun- try. We believe that the time is coming when our best scholars will consider first in their list of accomplish- ments a thorough knowledge of the land in which they live. Thoreau thought Walden Pond and its neighbor- hood a universe in itself, and cared to go no farther. We may find in the limits of a neighborhood, or State, a realm more fruitful to the student in quest of knowledge, than the kingdoms of Greece and Rome. It is better, after all, to know something of " Bear Grass," to know a little even of our limited home-world, than a great deal about the uttermost parts of the earth. With these views I make no apology for presenting my readers with a few incidents and items of travel through the States of Missouri and Kansas, a region that the professional tourist has passed over and over again without mention. Early in the year 1865 I entered the State of Missouri, crossing the Mississippi at Quincy by a ferry which con- nects the eastern and western portions of the Great Western Railroad. We landed at West Quincy late in the evening, and, as there were no trains going west, were obliged to remain till next day at a hotel of somewhat primitive construction. Of its three rooms, one was used as a kitchen, storeroom and bedroom, another as a dining- room, barroom and bedroom, and the remaining one as a parlor and bedroom, for the special use of travelers. Into this ten or twelve ladies and gentlemen, including a bride and groom, were crowded. AVho ever traveled by rail car or steamer any gi-eat distance without meeting at least one happy couple just wedded, fond, shy, embarrassed, 62 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. yet striving to appear self-possessed and unconscious of the scrutiny of their fellow travelers ? Such are almost invariably the objects of friendly interest. They have the tender sympathies of the benedicts, who recall memories of their own silver honeymoon, bright and beautiful, not- withstanding the golden daj^s that have followed. They are to the bachelors pleasant reminders of a path the}- themselves shall one da^^ tread, when each one shall have singled out, and wooed, and won the fairest, truest and most beautiful of womankind. There are, however, many disadvantages in being newly married, and not among the least of these the limited accommodations of this hotel, at which our bridal part}^ stood aghast. The other travelers resigned themselves with philosophical composure to cir- cumstances, and even enjoyed the novelty of this expe- rience of western life. The bridal party, through the kindness of the landlord, were accommodated with lodg- ings at a private house. The rest remained to enjoy their crowded and uncomfortable position, and to turn their misfortunes into a jest. The " muchness" of the thing, as Artemus says, amused them. As a result, the ice of re- serve was broken, and they, who a few hours before were strangers, suddenly became well acquainted, and enjoj'ed each others' societ3^ Travelers may journey side by side for days and scarce exchange a word, while an untoward accident, or adverse experience like this, will establish sym- pathy at once. Sidney Smith says that he was traveling in an omnibus with strangers, but when the omnibus over- turned he ^^ found them all out,'" a witticism doubly true. With the return of morning we prepared to resume our journey, but failed to get our trunks across the river till late in the day. At last we were ready and started on our westward waj'. We passed over a fine farming coun- try, supped at Palmyra, a fine looking town, and thence onward at the rate of about ten miles an hour. The trip MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 63 was rendered attractive by a spice of danger. Tlie war, which in the Southern States had already assumed gigan- tic proportions, was carried on in Missouri in a desultory manner by organized bands of bushwhackers, who prowled about in quest of plunder,. stopping railroad trains, rob- bing and sometimes killing the passengers. In view of these depredations the travelers had armed themselves, each with a navy revolver or two, and were prepared for any emergency. In addition to these perils from free- booters, the road was so rough as to be dangerous, the railroad company not being able in the unsettled condition of the countr}' to make the necessary repairs. We passed wrecks of cars every few miles. At the bridges blockhouses had been erected and guards stationed, Avhose business it was to protect the trains and keep the bushwhackers from burning the bridges. Our progress was slow, and soon became perceptibly slower. The " iron horse " began to show unmistakable signs of fatigue, and at a distance of twenty miles from Palm^Ta was completely exhausted and stopped. The perils of the position were sufficiently obvi- ous. It was night, we were in a dangerous localit}^, and knew not liow soon the enemy might be upon us. At this moment we most desired to be fljing OA'cr the prairie, but instead we were becalmed, as it were, for an uncertain time in a locality that we could not regard as either pleas- ant or safe. What of man's works is more helpless than a railroad train attached to a refractory engine ? A man was sent forward with a lantern to the next station a few miles ahead, who telegraphed to Hannibal for another engine, which in the course of a few hours, seeming very long to us, arrived and relieved us from om- real or seem- ing perils. Once more gliding over the rails in safety we despised the dangers we had feared before, and even, " Alas for the rarity Of Christian charity," 64 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. insinuated that our ferocious brakemen were more to be feared than any bushwhackers wliatever. Another danger was perhaps overlooked, that of dying of old age before the train should reach its destination, We were sanguine and cheerful, notwithstanding the long, sleepless night passed in " waiting for the wagon." The newh' married couple bore themselves heroically, cheering each other from time to time with words of comfort and assurance. The scene was truh^ affecting. Long after sunrise we arrived at Macon City, where the hungr}^ ones of our sleepless crowd breakfasted. Here we saw a company of Illinois soldiers guarding a few prisoners, clad in Confederate gray suits, and looking woebegone. Macon City is a handsome, thriving place, and the point where North Missouri Railroad intersects the Hannibal and St. Joe Railroad. The country that we passed through abounds in oak openings, or barrens, and has not the appearance of richness or fertility. We, nevertheless, passed through some fine villages, and noticed same fine farms, principally along the water-courses. Breakfast over, the cry of " all aboard " from the conductor saluted our ears. Some of the boj^s in blue suggested a "rail" instead of a " board," a good suggestion for those traveling in muddy times in an old-fashioned stage coach, and considering the condition of our railroad, not altogether inappropriate to us. We were often obliged to move slowly and cautiousl^^ over broken or defective rails. Saxe's raikoad song could scarcely apply to our train, unless perversely parodied, and made to read : "Crawling o'er the 'meadows, Creeping like a snail, Bless me this is tedious. Riding on a rail." As we proceeded westward the country became more and more attractive till we reached a point about forty MISSOURI AND KANSAS, 65 miles east of St. Joseph, where it presents an exceedingly inviting appearance. The soil was a dark, rich loam. Noble forest trees skirted the streams. There seemed about equal proportions of prairie and timber land. The pleasing landscape inspired our company with new life and cheerfulness. We reached St. Joseph at five o'clock r. M., and were greeted at once with a deafening clamor from hackmen and hotel runners. The confusion and uproar were quite city-like. Trunks were treated by bag- gage masters with their accustomed disrespect. Some were thrown or slammed so violently as to be burst open, greatly to the wrath of the helpless owners, who swore great oaths like " our arm}' in Flanders," as their treas- ures were thus ruthlessly exposed to the gaze of a promis- cuous rabble. I escaped from this hurl}^ burly as best I could, and taking as deliberate a survey as possible of the various representatives of the hotel world of St. Joseph, selected the most plausible* looking scamp among them, and gave m^'self and baggage unresistingly into his hands. The hotel was crowded. Six of us were assigned to one room, but this was decidedly better than our accommoda- tions at West Quincy. The landlord was obliging, the fare was excellent, and we considered ourselves fortunate and happ3'. St. Joseph, even at this season of the year, and this stage of the war, was enjoying a high degree of prosperit3^ Trade was brisk, the hotels were crowded to their utmost capacity, and the railroad was scarce equal to the de- mauds upon it for tranportation of freight. The Missouri river was open, and steamboats were briskly transporting freight from St. Louis to all points above. St. Joseph contained at this time about 20,000 inhabitants, and was rapidl}^ improving. It is now, and will continue to be, a place of great importance. After a brief rest in this attractive place I resumed 66 anssouRi and Kansas. my journey, on the Platte Country Railroad. At an early hour of a very pleasant clay we took our leave of St. Joseph. Our route lay along the eastern shore of the Missouri river. Richer bottom lands and finer farms than are found along this road, I have seldom or never seen. We arrived in due time at "Weston, then the terminus of our railroad, a small village, seven or eight miles north of Leavemvorth City, noted for picturesque hills surrounding it, its conspicuous bridges over deep ravines, and its no less conspicuous beer saloons. Here we were met by the nice little steamer Emil}^, and her nice clerk appropriately yclept Nicety, a name descriptive of the manner in which things were managed on this model boat. An hour's ride over the beautiful Missom-i brought us to Leavenworth. CHAPTER II, Leavenworth, its Situation, Commerce, PoruLATiox, Signs of Prosperity, the Fort, Pilot Knob Cemetery — A JorRNEY by Stage Coach — A Rich Country^ — Topeka, Description — Modern Pioneers — "The Universal Yankee" — Tecumseh, a City of the Past — Lawrence, its History', Qvantrell's Raid, Present Prosperity-. This city is situated on the west bank of the Missouri river, two miles south of Fort Leavenworth, and thu'tj'- five miles north of Kansas Cit3\ It is the principal busi- ness city west of St. Louis, and the population, which in 1855 was 1,500, is noAV about 25,000. The Missouri flows by with a swift and deep current, but good landing facilities are afforded by a natural levee of rock. The surrounding country is sufficiently elevated to render it healthy, and sufficiently broken and uneven to give it a picturesque appearance. A large business in manufac- MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 67 taring wagons for emigrants about to cross the plains, is carried on here. In 1865 nearly 5,000 wagons were laden at this point for New Mexico, Denver, and Salt Lake City. Goods were reshipped from Fort Leavenworth to the vari- ous forts and military stations on the i^lains westward. The city of Leavenworth is very handsomely laid out, and contains many fine as well as substantial brick build- ings. The citizens are principally eastern men, and are noted for their intelligence, enterprise, and public spirit. Loafers and idlers of every class are held at a discount among them. We were fortunate in making the acquaint- ance of some genial and noble hearted men during our brief sojourn in this city. Four daily and five or six weekly newspapers are published here. These papers are ably conducted, and a sufficient indication of the intelli- gence and enterprise of the people may be found in their well-filled columns. "We believe that in all essential par- ticulars Leavenworth will compare favorably with any city of its size in the Union. After visiting the Fort, the Government Farm of 2,000 acres, and the Government Hill, as it is called, we paid a visit to Pilot Knob, on which the Cemetery is located, and from this point obtained a beautiful view of the city and surrounding country. The Cemetery, of course, is want- ing in many of the features which add a solemn interest to the burying places of older cities. There are no old tombs or mouldering, time-worn monuments. "The rude forefathers of the hamlet " have not j^et found a grave, or if they have, it is not here. There are comparatively few dwellers in this " silent city." As j^et, Leavenworth is in its 3'outh and prime, and is, p«?' excellence, a city of the living. From Leavenworth we went to Topeka, the capital of the State. Our convej^ance was a lumbering stage coach, a vehicle fast becoming obsolete in eastern localities, and 68 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. used here only for a time. The doom of the stage coaches has ah-ead}^ been pronounced. The}^ are driven westward with the red man, and like him, are doomed to ultimate extinction. Our route lay over Government Hill, by Easton, Winchester, Osawkee, Florence, and Wyoma. The scenery along the route was attractive, the soil ap- peared to be rich ; there was abundance of limestone in ledges, suitable for building purposes, but there appeared every where to be a scarcity of timber. We noted many brick and stone houses, the latter being the first seen since leaving the Eastern States. It was late in the evening when we arrived at the Kansas river ferry, two miles east of Topeka. After a little dela^^ at the crossing, we were driven in to Topeka, and set down at the door of the Chase Hotel. After our weary ride, we were glad at the pros- pect of resting in a place so pleasant as this seemed to be. We were agreeably surprised to find in the capital so many evidences -of intelligence, enterprise, and refinement. Topeka is situated in the midst of a rich agricultural district, on the Southern bank of Kansas river, and eight}- miles west of Kansas City. It has a population of 4,000, and a fair proportion of churches, schools, etc. Topeka, like Leavenworth, has been settled and built principally by Eastern men. With this class of pioneers, no town or village is planned or built in which the church and school house do not form leading features. The men of this class are not in reality pioneers of civilization, inasmuch as they carry their civilization with them. The true pioneers were men of a different t3^pe ; men who hated cities and settlements, who loved solitude, who lived in huts and cabins, and fought single-handed against savage men and savage beasts. Boone and Kenton Avere examples of such. The modern pioneers are more gregarious in their habits. They love the hum of crowded streets, the excitement of trade ; they take kindly to patent labor-saving machines, MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 69 and delight in speculation. They arc skilled in the coii- struction of paper towns and air-line railroads. They have a keen scent for oil wells and coal beds, and have a happy knack of making the most out of the least favor- able surroundings. Those men find out at once the apti- tudes of soil, climate, surface, and locality, and farm, manufacture, herd cattle, or engage in traflic accordingly. These are the men who are to make the desert to rejoice, and the wilderness to blossom as the rose. Topeka has its share of them. They are not saints, nor yet sinners above all men, but simply active, restless, go-ahead-ative men, who have set out to lay the foundations of empire, and thoroughlj" believe that they are the men to do the work. Success to them. Future generations, perhaps, will appreciate their labors. The Santa Fe route, by way of Fort Riley, passes through Topeka. The daily stage coaches on this line appear always crowded. After a brief stay in this city, I set out by stage coach conve^'ance for Lawrence, Douglas county. The country passed on this route consists mostly of rolling prairies. There are many well improved farms, and substantial brick or stone buildings, Tecumseh, the former capital, in which the pro-slavery Legislature met to plot against freedom and right, seemed an exception to the general prosperity of the country through which we passed. VTe could not but note and reflect upon its sorry appearance. Whatever glory it may once have had has all departed. Even the old State House was being demolished, and its bricks removed to Topeka. The town was dead as the institution in whose interest it was origi- nally planned and built. We may say of it, as has been said of so many cities ruined and half-forgotten, it has been. Tecumseh was. We pass from Tecumseh to Law- rence — from a dead to a living city. Lawrence the ill-fated when Tecumseh was in its prime, but to-day the happy and 70 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. prosperous. No western town has a sadder, bloodier his- tory than Lawrence. The loyal inliabitants had suffered again and again from fire and sword. Outrage after out- rage was perpetrated upon its liberty-loving citizens, and yet it survived. As I looked upon the now thriving city, I noticed some vestiges or traces of Quantrell's raid, and recalled the tragic history of the dark daj-s, happily passed forever. How impossible it is that wrong should ever per- manently triumph. Truth has a native vigor that defies the oppressor and WTong doer. As the poet says : "The eternal years of God are her'.':." I recalled the words of the old song, sung years before the " irrepressible conflict " became a desolating war. They contain a prophecy that is to-day verified : "The type that in the river lay — Thrown there for serving freedom — Washed clear and bright, shall come to light Some day, when truth shall need them." So bright are the uses of adversity. Apparent disaster is after awhile victory. Water can not quench a living- truth, and fires can not consume it. Lovejoy's type click in a thousand offices consecrated to freedom, and cities laid waste by the torch rise from their ashes, to be again a home for civilization and refinement. The citizens of Lawrence are a liberal minded, liberty- loving people. Their city wears a prosperous look, and has nearly or quite recovered from the damage inflicted upon it during the war. The buildings are neat in appear- ance, and built generally' of brick or stone. There are, of course, good school houses and churches. Among the latter we maj'- particularly mention the Methodist church, a handsome brick structure, and that of the Unitarians, built of stone, and ornamented with a town clock. This church is free to most of the denominations, and is often MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 71 used as a lecture room ))y the Progressive Friends. Three railroads add to the commercial importance of Lawrence. The surrounding coimtry is well adapted to farming pur- poses ; and timber, which in other parts of the State is not plentiful, here is found in abundance. SOUTHWESTERN KANSAS. CHAPTER III. Baldwin* City — Prairie City — Ottawa — Ohio City — Garrett — Leroy — B urlingtok — Ottum wa — Hartford — Neosho Rapids — Quaker Settlement — Emporia — State Normal School — Col-x- ciL Grove — Fort Riley — Ixdiaxs — Pacific Railroad Lands — Coal Mines — Topeka. After spending a few days and forming a few agreeable acquaintances in LawTsnce, I purchased a horse and buggy, and in company with a friend set out to visit the south- western part of Kansas. Although it was the first of April when we stai'ted, we found the roads very good, and the new mode of traveling decidedly preferable to the old, and more enjoyable. The traveler in a stage coach is virtually a prisoner. The movements are regulated bj' the whim of the driver ; in his own conveyance he has a sense of freedom, which adds very essentially to the pleasure of traveling. Baldwin City, the first point'of importance on our route, is a pleasant little village. Most western cities are ^'illages. They are called cities bj- vray of compliment, or possiblj^ in a prophetic spirit, the name being a prophecy of future importance. The traveler cannot but notice in western towns and villages a peculiarity that may be termed 7iub-is7n. Every considerable place is certain to be located in a central position. The Bostonians do not more perti- naciouslv believe in their city as the hub of the universe 72 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. than do these western city builders in their own favored town sites. These claims are not made without much show of reason, and at this early date it would be hard to predict as to what city should be the -favored one in the contest for precedence. Baldwin Cit}' is at present an unassuming village of perhaps four hundred inhabitants. There is here a pros- porous college, under the patronage of the Methodist Episcopal Church. Prairie City, also a village, is located about two miles west of Baldwin City, contains about two hundred inhabitants, and has an excellent school house. The soil in this part of Douglas county is very rich, but timber is not abundant. We pass next to Ottawa, on the Osage river, the county seat of Franklin county-. At the time of our visit, the town, which had only been planned a j^ear before, was being rapidly built up. Indications of thrift and enterprise were every where apparent. Eighteen miles further south we find Ohio City, the former county town. There were only a few houses here, and but one well, and that containing but little water, not enough to supply our wearied and jaded horse. The surrounding country looks well, but there is here the generally pre- vailing scarcity of timber. Garnet, the county seat of Anderson count}^ through which we next passed, is a small village, yet handsome in appearance. At Hum- boldt, the county seat of Allen county, located on the banks of the Neosho, we found abundance of water and timber. "VVe found here indications of coming spring. The grass was already green, and this was in the early part of April. The timber in the river bottoms was prin- cipally oak, walnut, Cottonwood, hickorj', and ash, and was of ver}' luxuriant growth. Our next halt was made at Leroy, a small town in Coffee count}^, northwest of Humboldt. At Burlington, the county seat of the same county, we made several agreeable acquaintances, among MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 73 them Mr. Proutley, the able editor of the BurUngton News. liiirlington is situated on the left bank of the Neosho river, and contains a population of about one thousand, a woolen factory, saw and grist mill, etc. The surrounding country is Avell supplied with water and timber, Ottumwa, also in Coffee county, is a beautiful village on the eastern bank of the Neosho river, and reminded us of " the city set upon a hill, which can not be hid." From the high mound on which it is located ma}^ be obtained a fine view of the surrounding countiy. A large brick school building has been built here by the Christian denomination. In the vicinity may be found abundance of timber, and occa- sional ledges of building stone. The farms w^hich dot the country at short intervals are well improved. Passing through a small village called Hartford, M^e next visited Neosho Rapids, a village near the border of Lj'on count}', in a well timbered region. There is here a large mer- chant's flouring mill. The Neosho valley is well settled with an industrious, enterprising people, and is well adapted for farming and stock raising purposes. A short distance aboA'e the village is the junction of the two Cot- tonwood creeks, which thence become Neosho river. "We continued our journey in the direction of Emporia, the county seat of Lyon county. Within five miles of the town, we passed tlu'ough a beautiful farming district, the neat houses and well cultivated farms reminding us strongly of some flourishing Quaker settlements that are found in Ohio and Indiana. The dress of the people, and their peculiar use of the pronoun " thee," verified our con- jectures. They were Quakers from Indiana and Ohio. It is a noticeable fact that this peculiar and really sagacious people invariably select the best and most fertile lands for their settlements. • The presence of Quakers is conse- quently a sufficient evidence of the richness and fertility of the localities in which they are found. 74 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. Emporia is situated between tlie two Cottonwood creeks, about a mile from eacli. Tlie State Normal School is located here, and is said to be in a prosperous condition. We shall remember Emporia with pleasure from the very agreeable acquaintances formed here. Judges AVatson and Hunt are specially remembered. We next passed through Council Grove, a fair little place, and then stopped at Fort Riley on the Kansas river, and now an important point on the Union Pacific Railroad. The country around it is very productive. Junction City, a few miles west of Fort Riley, bids fair to be an impor- tant point for trading, as it is likely that all the goods for the Santa Fe and New Mexico trade will be shipped to this point. Our next stopping place was Manhattan, a few miles northeast of Fort Riley, and also on the Pacific Railroad. All the land thus far traveled over had been of good quality, fertile, and well suited for farms and stock raising. The principal and only drawback com- plained of by the farmers, was the summer droughts, which recurred generally on alternate j'cars, according to popular report. The two last years have, however, proved exceptions, there being plenty of rain, and excellent crops. This and other circumstances, leads many to suppose the dry season to be excej)tional, rather than the fixed rule. We believe that the average of the crops will prove quite equal to those of other States. The grass always does well. While going through Council Grove, Fort Riley, Man- hattan, and other places, we met and conversed with Indians of various tiibes living in the State of Kansas. All were friendly, and some quite intelligent. Those in this State are all friendly and civilized. From Manhattan we passed down the Kansas river, stopping at the various towns on the wa}-, which though as yet small, have the natural elements of improvement, and at no distant day MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 75 will become thriving and prosperous places. The Union racific Railroad owns largo tracts of the public lands lying along the river, as well as some of the richest locali- ties in Kansas. AYhile mentioning the delicienc}' of wood in some parts of the State, we omitted noting the existence of coal mines in various localities. There are occasional indica- tions of oil. Oak, walnut, and cottonwood timber abounds in the valley of the Kansas. Continuing our journey, we passed through the pleasant town of Topeka, making, however, but a brief stay. We passed mau}^ beautiful farms. In fact the valley of the Kansas abounds in such. CHAPTER lY. At Lawrexce — News of Lee's Surrender — Public Rejoicixg — The Assassination of President Lincoln — Sudden Revulsion OF Feeling — The Grief of a Nation — From Lawrence to Leavenworth — Delaware Reserve — Indian Tribes — Effect of Civilization — Santa Fe Trains — Atchison — An Indian Preach- er, HIS Theory Concerning the Failure of Missionaries — At- chison County — Jackson County — Topeka — Burlingame — Ridge- AVAY — Twin Mounds — Clinton — J. A. Beam — Bloomington — Osage Hedges — Dairies. "We arrived at Lawrence just as the citizens had received tlie intelligence of the evacuation of Richmond by Lee. At this news the courage of the weak and doubting revived, and they began at last openly to express hope for the Union. The ncAvs of the surrender of Lee, on the follow- ing day, was too good to be true ; but when Gen. Grant's oflicial report arrived, all classes gave way to one common outburst of joy and congratulation. Banners were un- furled to the breeze from many a flag staff, and were sus- 76 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. pended by ropes stretched across the principal streets. All seemed to partake of the general jo}'. Lawrence had suffered as no other northern city had. At one time it had been burned to ashes, and the citizens murdered, unarmed and in cold blood, by a band of guerillas, while those capable of defending its hearths and homes were alxsent doing service in the armies of freedom. These were to return. The days of pillage and slaughter Avere over, and there was to be no more war. To the citizens of Lawrence the change was almost millenial, and they rejoiced as only a rescued people can rejoice. The waving of banners, the firing of guns, and the ringing of bells, formed the outward expression of a joy too deep for words or sjunbols. A happy people thronged the streets, among them manj^ contrabands — contrabands no longer — who had fled during the war from the border counties of Missouri, and now were rejoicing in true camp meeting style, shouting, -weeping for joy, and praising God. The scene was indescribable. To the poor slave, who had spent almost a life time in bondage, and who now knew that he was free, it was trul}^ a blessed day. His grotesque expressions were not unnatural or extravagant. "Bress de Lord ! " "Bress Massa Lincoln — Gen. Grant — General Sherman ! Bress every body ! " were common exclamations. " The year of Jubilee had come." Ere the people had concluded their manifestations of joy which the last message from Washington had called forth, came the terrible news of the assassination of Pres- ident Lincoln at Wood's Theatre. Men turned pale at the tidings ; houses were darkened ; public and other buildings draped in mourning ; and the sounds of lamentation were heard. Perhaps in the annals of history there has been no such sudden revulsion from joy to grief, as on this memorable day. The same scene of gladness turned MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 77 suddenly to grief was witnessed in every cit}-, town, and hamlet of the loyal portion of the countr3\ Yet here, in Kansas, as the rejoicing was proportionately greater, so was the sorrow deeper than that which found expressioii elsewhere. Here as elsewhere, the grief was limited to no party or clan. All united in a spontaneous tribute to the illustrious dead. At the news of the ghastly wound in- flicted by the assassin upon the Chief Magistrate of the nation did bleeding Kansas bleed afresh. The people of no other State mourned more deei)ly the death of Lincoln than those of Kansas ; and it may be safely asserted that no other State is more true to the principles for which that well beloved man became a martyr. Kansas is to- day, and ever shall be, sacred to Freedom. The reader will excuse the digression prompted by the joyful and sad events that followed each other so closel}^ Once more to the prosaic task of describing localities, of noting the peculiarities of soil and surface, and of mark- ing the changes and improvements that have passed and are passing over this new land. The country between Lawrence and Lea\'enworth was formerly known as the Delaware Reserve, and is now owned principally by the Union Pacific llailroad Com- pany. It presents an agreeable variety of prairie and timber lands ; and has some fine streams of water, and occasional ledges of good building stones. Portions of two Indian tribes still remain on Kansas river, near AVj-andotte and Kansas City. They are of the Delaware and Shawnee tribes. They have among them some very good schools, and have attained a very creditable degree of civilization. There are nearty as many Indians seen in the streets of Kansas City, Wj'andotte, Lawrence, and Leavenworth, as negroes. As a people, the red men arc fading away, and must soon be no longer a distinct race ; we have nevertheless many examples that tend to show 5 78 Mrssouui and Kansas. that, with the proper care and culture, they may become civilized and useful members of society. The descendants of such may, with our people, inherit the broad acres that once were Icnown as the happy hunting grounds of Nature's most untutored children. Civilization is offered them with its attendant blessings. They may accept it and live ; or reject it and be swept awaj- as leaves before the blast. It is a sad fact that a vast majority accept only the vices of civilization, its idle habits, its gaming, its libertinism, its bad whisk}', and then perish as surely as the leaves fall in autumn. The old reservation here is certainly a fine tract of country, and niay well excite the covetousness of the " pale faces," who are just now possessing themselves of the goodly land. The distance from Lawrence to Leaven- worth is thirty-five miles by the wagon road, and proved rather a pleasant drive. We passed many well cultivated farms, and encountered an occasional prairie schooner, or large covered wagon, used in crossing the plains. The Mexicans vrere at this time coming in with their long trains. Some of their wagons were drawn by asmany as ten yoke of oxen, a small caravan in themselves. These wagons passed in a continuous stream, one disappearing as another came in sight. There was no part of the road in which one or more of them could not be seen. Passing from Leavenworth to Atchison, we found the country more hilly than usual. There was very little timber ; the road was rough and stony, and the general appearance of the landscape less inviting. The city of Atchison itself was not more prepossessing than the country crossed in reaching it. Atchison is nevertheless a brisk, thriving place, is well situated for commerce, has a railroad run- ning through it, and extending for a considerable distance west. While at Atchison, I had the somewhat rare priv- ilege of hearing an Indian preach. The sermon, which MISSOURI AND KANSAS. i\) was preached in the Episcopal Church, was singuhir, and in many respects memorable. The preacher, who had been educated in the northeastern part of Indiana, and was acting as a missionary to his people in Kansas, dis- cussed missionary matters in a very original and pertinent manner, but advancing many odd and apparently skeptical ideas. He asserted, for instance, in attempting to account for the failure of the white missionaries to his race, that the}' committed the mistake of trying to enforce a belief in the historical parts of tlie Old Testament, rather than the first principles of Christianity, the law of Love, and the waj' to do right. The Indians, he asserted, never could or would believe the miraculous stories of the crea- tion, the deluge, the confusion of tongues, the crossing of the Red Sea, etc., etc. ; and they wonld put no faith in any one who asserted their truth. They must first, he urged, be taught to know the difterence between good and evil, right and wrong. They must he taught to shun the white man's fire water, and to trust in the white man's God, who is the Great Spirit of spirits, and Life of all life. Mail}', Avithout sharing the preacher's skepticism, will cor- dially concede the point that the first instruction of a religious nature to a savage and uncultivated mind should be an appeal to the conscience rather than an attempt to teach history. It is true that the history has an important bearing on the principles taught, but still, it is an adjunct and not an essential to salvation. That the missionaries have not been more successful in their labors among the Indian tribes may be attributed in part to errors in teach- ing, but it is doubtless owing in a still greater degree to the failure of the whites, as a race, to make their own practice accord with the principles they teach. The whites offer them at once the Bible and a cup of fire-water. They give them a law and gospel which they themselves set at 80 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. defiance, and the result is what might be expected — the poor Indian becomes badly demoralized. From the preacher and his text we pass to more appro- priate themes. We left Atchison for Topeka after a short stay. What we saw of Atchison county differed not much from the .country between Atchison and Leavenworth. The soil was good enough for farming purposes, but tim- ber was scarce. There v;as, however, plenty of building stone. There were several well improved farms, belong- ing to peo])le from the eastern and northern States. We passed next into Jackson count}^ and Avere much pleased with the appearance of the country. The people complain of their bleak wintry winds. In this county are promising indications of coal. The immigration is from the eastern States. From Ilolton, the county seat of Jackson county, we re-visited Topeka, passing again over the rich, beautiful bottom lands already described. We then passed south- ward by Auburn and Burlingame in Osage county. In this county are some excellent lands and fine streams of water ; but the prairies are high and extensive, and the country, especially in the southern part, thinly settled. From thence Ave traveled towards Lawrence, passing through Versailles, Ridgeway, and Twin Mounds. Ridge- way is appropriately named. Twin Mounds is so named from two large elevations, each covering an area of one hundred acres, and standing very nearly together. There are at this place a hotel, postoffice, and grist mill. There are indications of coal here. The site is a beautiful one, commanding as it does an extensive and pleasing view of the surrounding countr3\ The next place of note on this road is Clinton, distant twelve miles from Lawrence. This village is the home of J. A. Beam, the communist reformer and philanthropist. He is doubtless a good man, and he has certainly made great sacrifices in behalf of his MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 81 principles. His aim has been to establish a society or ooinmunity on the plan advocated by the Apostles, " where all things shall be held as common propert3\" Whatever may have been appropriate in the apostolic ages, it is cer- tain that in these modern days what is known as com- munism is not likelj^ to obtain any great favor among men. One mile east of Clinton is the pleasant little town of Bloomington. In the immediate neighborhood, there is plenty of timber and water. Further on, towards Law- rence, timber is more scarce, but stone is plentiful, and is used by the farmers in building fences. I noted on this road some beautiful Osage hedges. These grow well in all parts of the State. Dairies are, here and elsewhere in the State, kept to ad\'antage. Mrs. , an eastern lad}' residing near Burlingame, Osage county, made, from the milk of twenty-two cows, about 40 pounds of cheese per day. This she did for two summers, adding to the profits the value of twenty-two calves, which she raised each season. She received at the end of three months about $800 for the cheese alone, and estimating the calves at the close of the year as worth $10 apiece, we have a total profit of ^1020 per annum. With the assistance of her two daughters, and hired help, she carried on her farm so as to add very materiall}- to her gains from the dair}-. Few men are to be found who could carry on the alfairs of a farm and dairy as successfully as does this enterprising lady. There is quite a demand here for dairy products, as Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico, derive their supplies principally from this region. 32 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. CHAPTEK V. An Expedition to the Chehokee Neutral Lanbs, the Outfit,' Object — J. A. Beam and his Theories — Constitution of the Progressiye Fraternity — The Rendezvous at Lawrence — The First Night in Camv — Prairie City — Stanton — Osage Hiver — The Doctor's Adventure — Miami County — Twin SfrIng>s — Linn County — Paris — Moneka — Mound City — Fort Lincoln — Fort Scott. A trip to southeastern Kansas, southwestern Missouri, and the Cherokee Neutral lands, ■nill richly repaj' the tourist. Having heard so much of this admirable country, a company numbering eight persons, including the writer, set out on a pilgi-image, or rather expedition, to satisfy theu' curiosity with regard to this land of promise. As the country had been the scene of many a bloody foray, and was even then infested with bushwhackers, we found it necessary to go armed, and so provided ourselves with a formidable array of guns and revolvers. We took with us a carriage, wagon, three saddle horses, and a liberal supply of blankets, provisions, etc. As we were all of the temperance reform school, the latter did not include the usual supply of alcohol, to enliven our parting or cheer us on our way. We had in our party E. B. Sawyer and his wife, and the reformer, A. J. Beam, and his wife. The object of the reformer was to find a well watered and timbered tract of land, in some healthy locality, where he could establish a communit}', and carry out his long cher- ished idea of communism. The presence in our compan}- of this noted man, will justify' a more extended reference to his principles, and the fundamental features of the association which he proposed to establish. He takes, as the basis of his reform, the Apostolic idea of community of goods and interests, which he deems essential to equality of condition and happiness. Article second, of what may be considered as the constitution of the association, reads MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 83 as follows: "The fundamental principle of this society shall be that of fraternity ; each for all, and all for each ; and from each according to his ability, and to each accord- ing to his wants," The person becoming a member of this society, puts into tlie common fund, all his property, whether it be much or little, and thenceforward shares equally in labor and its rewards with the poorest. He does not receive more for having contributed much ; he only receives in proportion to his wants and necessities. The man able to work ten hours per day shares equall^^ with the man who can work but five ; the man with ten children receives enough to supply his wants ; the man vnth. one or none receives according to his necessities. The principle of fraternity requires that all should share alike. Friend Beam advocates free schools, free churches, and universal freedom. He contends that the law of love is the only true law by which the world can be redeemed. His principles are noble, too noble for this hard and selfish age, and few can be found willing to give themselves for the nniversal good. It is thought best in the imperfect state of society to have laws regulating the acquisition and tenure of property, under which one man may grow enormously rich and another abjectly poor, and the man3^ are made to subserve the interests of the few. Commun- ism supposes men to be purer, better, and less selfish than they are, and too much ignores the force or law necessary to control evil men, because it ignores too much the evil in man. We concede its adaptation to a perfect state of society, but " the good time coming" is yet, we fear, far distant. Nature has given us, in this western land, many of the physical conditions of a second Eden ; broad and fertile plains,' luxuriant forests, crj-stal streams, mild cli- mate, and serene skies, "And only man is vile." We append, as not altogether out of place in this con- 84 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. neclion, a synopsis of the articles governing this asso. ciation : CONSTITUTION OF THE PEOGRESSIVE FRATEENITT. We, the undersigned, believing the present form of society to be imperfect, and to have a tendency to make men selfish; and desiring to establish a more comfortable and harmonious home, where we can act upon the principle of fraternal love ; where there will be no rich and no poor, but all stand upon the basis of equality ; where we can have better advantages for the cultivation of our moral, intellectual, and social natures, do hereby agree to establish the following Consti- tution for our government : Art. 1. The name of this society shall be The Peogressive Fraternitv, as expressive of our desire to progress from ignorance to wisdom, and from selfishness to brotherly love. Art. 2. The fundamental principle of this society shall be that of fraternity — each for all, and all for each, and from each according to his ability, and to each according to his wants. Art. 3. The laws and regulations of this society shall be estab- lished by the wisdom of the majority of the members of the fraternity. Art. 4. Members of both sexes shall have the same social, politi- cal, and educational privileges, and shall be equal in every particular. Art. 5. All members will be expected to labor as many hours each day as the wisdom of the society may deem necessary, except Sunday, which shall be devoted to rest, recreation, and improvement. Art. 6. All members of this society having capital and property must turn it over to the society, for its use, as soon as practicable. Art. 7. Any member of this society can withdraw at any time, and claim the amount of capital (without interest), furnished by such member, with one-half of the net profits of the society, in proportion to the number of members, and the time said member served the society. Art. 8. The domain, industrial implements, live stock, and capi- tal of the society, shall be held as common property, and each member will be expected to care for the property as his own. Art. 9. A President, Secretary, Treasurer, and a Board of five Trustees shall be elected annually. Art. 10. It shall be the duty of the President to make sugges- tions for the improvement of the society, to see that all members perform their duties faithfully, to report delinquents, preside at all meetings of the society, and preserve order. Art. 11. It shall be the duty of the Secretary to take care of the MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 85 Constitution and books of tlie society, to record all of its proceedings faithfully, and to attend to the business correspondence of the society. Art. 12. Resolved, That the dual relation of the sexes accords with tlie law of nature, and leads to liarmony aiid happiness. Art. 13. The society binds itself to furnish food, shelter, clothing, and educational advantages to all, and each person is bound to operate for the general welfare of the society. Art. 14. We promise to conduct ourselves in a becoming and appropriate manner ; to use no profane or vulgar language ; to abstain from tlie use of intoxicating drink, as a beverage ; to live in such a manner as will best conduce to our spiritual development. Art. 15. This Constitution may be changed or amended by a vote of two-thirds of the society, at a meeting called for the purpose, after which change or amendment any member can leave the society upon the terms herein specified. Art. 1G. All families and single persons shall, as soon as practi- cable, have separate rooms for their exclusive use. Art. 17. We agree to do all in our power to exalt and perfect the government in which we live. Art. 18. The capital of deceased members, dying without will, shall be faithfully transmitted to their legal heirs. Art. 19. Any vacancy occurring in the offices of this society sliall be filled immediately, by an election held for that purpose, after due notice. The members of the society adopting these articles were not, as has been maliciousl}^ asserted, either Mormons or free lovers, but persons of correct morals and unques- tioned intelligence, who would compare favorably with the better class of people in au}^ communit}'. This much is due to them and to friend Beam, whose character for truthfulness and lieuevolence is unimpeachable. Ilis com- pany and conversation added materially to the enjoyment of our social circle. We found in liim at once a philoso- pher and friend. Our party met at La^vrenee to arrange the preliminaries for departure, and as this occupied some time we did not commence our journc}^ till late in the day. "We made our lirst halt at a point twelve miles from Lawrence, and three miles from Baldwin Citv. We found here no thronged 86 MISSOUKI AND KANSAS. hotel, and had in fact no roof aboA'e us but that grand dome which God has reared over all. There are no arbi- trar}^ or class distinctions here. Under the glorious roof- tree of heaven repose together the rich and poor, the prince and peasant, the lofty and the lowly, and side by side they slumber in peace beneath the watchful eye of the Master of life. It is to be hoped that we were duly impressed with the grandeur and dignity of our sleeping- apartment. At any rate, with a feeling of real enjoyment we folded our blanlcets around us and lay down to rest on the sod of the prairie, feeling the same respect 'for our dewy couch as did the noble Indian chief when pressed to sit upon a chair. " No," said he, looking at the strange piece of furniture, " earth is my mother ; I will repose upon her bosom." And we did repose. Sweeter and more refreshing slumbers I have seldom known. We woke in the morning with the dew upon our locks, but refreshed and strengthened. Some of our party were in poor health, but this trip was better than medicine ; they grew stronger every day, and ere the journey was over had forgotten their ailments altogether. After feeding our horses and partaking of a gips3^-like breakfast, we resumed our journej", halting a while at Prairie City, where we met a few friends, and then pro- ceeding in the direction of Staunton on the north side of the Osage river. ^Ve passed over high, rolling prairies, and during most of the day kept in sight of the timber on the Osage, or Ossawattomie river, as it is sometimes called. We arrived at last at Stanton, a small village located on a hill. We did not claim the hospitality of its citizens, but found a good camping ground near by, afford- ing certainly more generous accomodations than an}^ hotel in Stanton. We had traveled thirty-two miles, and as a consequence enjoyed our rest. On our way to this place we fell in with a man, who, as ho was traveling in the MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 87 same direction ■with us, joined our party for a time, but, riding faster than our horses carried us, finally went ahead, accompanied by a member of our party, a doctor, who promised to rejoin us at night. lie did not, however, niake his appearance, and we could not conjecture what liad become of him. The next morning we passed the town of Ossawatomie, known as the home of John Brown. In this town we found salt wells, from which is manufac- tured salt of a very good quality. The country surround- ing Ossawatomie is fertile. Here we overtook our friend, the doctor, who had fared hardl}^, and had a doleful stor}^ of mishaps to relate. He had attempted to come back to our camp late in the evening, but in crossing the ford of the Osage had missed the lauding place, and found him- self at large in a brushy bottom, surrounded by such clouds of mosquitoes that, he avers, he coiild not see the path. His horse was tired, and night coming on he had no resource but to remain there, and concluded to spend the night sitting on a log and fighting mosquitoes. How bravely he fought, how heroicall}' he suffered will never be known ; but he doubtless struggled manfully with fate, and would have held out till morning, but while fighting against fearful odds he heard somewhere in the distance the faint tinkling of a cow bell. Never did sweeter or more welcome music fall upon his ear. He followed the sound, and found a path which led to a fence, and follow- ing the fence he found a school house, where he biv- ouacked for the night, finding in the walls of the school house a partial protection from the mosquitoes. His horse fared sumptuousl}' on some corn gathered from the field of which the fence was the boundary. "We sympa- thized, of course, with the doctor in his misfortunes, but were none the less amused at his adventures. He slept on a bench, and his dreams were a mere repetition of his adventures. In his slumbers he fought his battles over 88 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. and over again. He has since entertained a very strong prejudice against mosquitoes, and tliinks he would rather figlit bushwhackers, for these when vanquished become quiet, but no Amount of killing can subjugate a crowd of hungr}^ mosquitoes. AYe were now in Miami county, of which Peola is the county seat. The land is good and timber abundant. This county is crossed by the Osage river. We passed next to Twin Springs, crossing some high stretches of prairie land, and passing by some rugged limestone bluffs. Twin Springs is a handsome place, and has some fine large springs of water, beautifully clear. We passed thence to Linn county, seeing nothing on our way worthy of special note. Before arriving at Paris, we crossed the Big Sugar river. Near this river, and in the A^alley, there is plenty of timber, but none on the hills. Paris is a small town, situated on a high prairie, and commanding a fine view of the surrounding country. There are some fine farms adja- cent, and stone coal is found here. We came next to Moueka, a pretty little village situated in a good country. Two miles south of Moneka is Mound City, on Little Sugar river. This is a thriving toAvn, with a steam mill and several stores, and good farms in the vicinity. It is twenty-six miles north of Fort Scott. Our next point was Fort Lincoln, in Bourbon count}-, on Little Osage river. The county is very inviting, and has plenty of coal and building stone, but timber is not plentiful. Twelve miles farther on we reached Fort Scott, on the Maraminta river, a town containing from four to five hun- dred inhabitants, and which has been much improved since the war. There are here good hotels, stores, mills, and factories, built of stone or brick. It has the appearance of a brisk and prosperous place. We here renewed our stock of provisions. Four miles south of Fort Scott, on the north line of the Cherokee neutral lands, we saw hills MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 89 which imbedded coal of a very fine quality. The residents of Fort Scott have used it for a number of years. It is hauled to Lawrence, Leavenworth, and neighboring cities, to be used in smithing, as it is very free from sulphur, and commands a very high price. The demand for it is great, but the supply seems inexhaustible. CHAPTER VI. The Missouri Border — Jasper County — A Depopulated Region — Ripe Fruits — Pure Water — Rich Sou, — Camp on Spring River — Natural Vineyards — Deserted Homes — Camp on Shoal Creek — Reding's Mill — Grand Falls on Shoal Creek — Beautiful Scenery — Cherokee Farm — A Cherokee — General Appearance of the Country — Return — Cow Creek — Delayed by High Water Return to Fort Scott — Again at Lawrence. Passing from Fort Scott in a southwardly direction, in about eight miles we crossed the boundary line between Missouri and Kansas. Here, on Little and Big Drywood creeks, is abundance of timber. There are here signs of improvement, among them a saw mill and grist mill, which are sure indications of growth in a new country. We crossed over the eastern portion of Vernon and Barton counties, a beautiful section of country, rich in coal and stone. We saw, within fort^' miles of Fort Scott, nothing worthy of special note in the large prairies over which we passed, save an occasional herd of deer, or solitar^^ wolf, skulking at a safe distance, and apparently noting our movements and progress. This was in September. The war had closed, but emigration had not begnm to pour in as rnpidl}' as it now does, and we were impressed with the thought that the greatness and true wealth of this country was in the future. It has, in all probability, treasures that 90 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. we know not of. At tlie branches of North Spring river, we were delighted to see pure water flowing over a pebbly channel, than which there are few things more beautiful in nature. We passed some farms and orchards on Buck creek, in the northern part of Jasper county. The fences had been burned down, as we supposed, by the prairie fires, but the apple trees were unharmed, and were bur- dened with apples, large and ripe, which we appreciated highly, coming as we did from a region as yet almost devoid of fruit. In the timber we found abundance of the wild summer grape, just beginning to ripen. ^Ye passed on over a beautiful slope of country, and crossed tlie South Fork of Spring river about fifteen miles east of the State line, and six miles west of Carthage. We crossed at Langle's Ford, and camped near a splendid apple orchard, and found beside, in the river bottom near by, plenty of grapes. Some of our company had provided themselves with fruit cans ; while the ladies busied themselves in pre- serving and canning fruits, the superfluous members of the camp were equally busy strolling about the surrounding country, and admiring its beautiful scener3\ Especially were Ave delighted with Spring river, the waters of which excelled in purity and transparency those of any other stream that I had ever seen. In the vicinity of our camp were to be seen plenty of deer and wild turkey's. We left this camp with regret, and passed in a southward direction, crossing Centre creek and Turkey creek, beautiful streams of pure running water. We passed many farms with fine orchards of both peach and apple trees, heavily laden with ripe fruit. We helped ourselves liberally to this fruit without an}' compunctions of conscience, for the farm houses were all deserted, and there was nobody in all the land to dispute our claim. These deserted homes v»^ere a sad and melancholy spectacle. This region had been a paradise ; it was not even now a wild. Besides the MISSOURI AND KANSAS, 91 domestic fruit, we found many natural vineyards on the v>'oody ridges, full of luscious grapes, and in the bottoms plenty of wild plums. This seemed to all of us, more than any region we had j-et passed, " the promised land." Its streams, indeed, flowed not " with milk and honey," but with pure water, which was certainly a treasure of equal value. The ripe fruits upon the trees and vines invited us to pluck and eat, and there were no Canaanites in all the land to molest or make us afraid. We camped two days upon the banks of Shoal creek, and while there visited the shoals where Reding's mill is located. We found an excellent saw and grist mill, and many good frame houses. The houses were all de- serted, and the mill wheels were idle and useless. There was the same old music of running water, the same sun- shine fell aslant upon beams and rafters through the open windows, but within all was &ilent. The spiders wove their nets Avithout molestation, and the rats came from their holes unscared. They were the sole proprietors of the place. There are few sights more lonely than a de- serted mill. A dwelling is after all made up of idle walls and roof that have only given shelter to human beings ; the mill has been an active agent in their welfare, a bread-giver. The deserted house tells a story of a single family scat- tered and gone ; the idle and deserted mill gives evidence of a neighborhood desolated and depopulated. We went from this place to Grand Falls, situated on Shoal creek, in Newton county, fifteen miles west of Neosho, and four miles east of the State line. The farm of Mrs. Scott, at this point, had been desolated, and the dwelling and woolen factor}'^ burned by the guerrillas. The falls form a beautiful and picturesque scene. The creek is about two hundred feet in width, and falls on a ledge of rock twelve feet in height, and hurries away through a stony and uneven channel. We camped near this fall one night 92 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. and part of a da}^ It is worth a journey to this fall to enjoy a shower bath under its beaded spra3\ The banks of this creek have rare beauty and picturesque aspect. The bottoms are full of the most luxuriant vegetation, and I found here the richest and best grapes I ever tasted, growing wild. While encamped here, IMr. Thompson, of Sherwood, came by and stopped with us daring the night, and gave us useful directions as to the roads as well as descriptions of the country. Our next stopping place was about eight miles west, on the farm of Mrs. Phillips, a half Cherokee, who had, on account of her Union princi- ples, been compelled to take refuge in Kansas during the war, and had just returned to her old home. She owned a large farm, an excellent orchard, a frame house, and a saw mill on Spring river. This region is included in the Cherokee neutral lands. We remained here several da^'^s, during which time, in company with A. J. Beam, I visited Mr. Harland, a Cherokee, who lived on Shoal Creek. Mr. Haiiand we found to be an intelligent man, and well educa- ted for a backwoodsman. lie had been driven from his home during the war, and robbed of most of his prpoert^^, and, like Mrs. Phillips, had returned to built up the waste places. He received us very cordially, and went with us to the junction of Shoal creek with Spring river, where he showed us some good mill sites. There is much large timber on these streams, and in some places on the up- lands may be found a fine growth of black and burr oak, while hickoiy, walnut, cherry, sycamore, and maple thrive on the bottom lands, growing in some instances to a gi-eat size. We were charmed with the richness of soil, the abundance of timber and water, and equally diversified appearance of the Cherokee neutral lands. Mr. Harland gave us the history of the neutral lands, which we omit as possessing no great interest. This is not the Cherokee reservation proper, that being in the Indian Territory, MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 93 immediatel}- southwest of IMissoiiri, and south of Kansas. The imitral lands comprise about 1,250 square miles. We returned from this region on what is called the Fort Gibson, Baxter Spring, and Fort Scott road. We were obliged to go into camp for a day at the crossing of Cow creek, and Avait for high waters to subside. This crossing is forty miles south of Fort Scott. The creek is between thirty and forty miles in length, and drains a rich and well timbered portion of the neutral lands. We made the most of our brief stay on its banks, and were almost sorry when the waters fell so that we could cross it and resume our journe}'. We passed over a large prairie lying be- tween this stream and Cox's creek, but the country about the creek was well timbered. Fourteen miles farther travel brought us to Fort Scott, well satisfied with our delightful trip. Some of the part}' were so well pleased that they determined to return and spend the winter, and test the climate as well as the fruits of the country. Many of the former inhabitants were returning to the homes from Avhich they had been driven during the war, and they anticipated but little or no trouble from the law- less bands that had heretofore been such a terror. We met many such families on our way to Fort Scott. As for our part}', after returning as far as Moneka, we de\'i- ated from our original plan, choosiug a different route from that first determined upon. Some of us went by Ottawa, Minneola, and Marion to Lawrence, where we all met, and, with a few other citizens, discussed the advan- tages of the various sections we had passed over, and upon mature reflection concluded to return to the Spring river country, for the purpose of making permanent homes. 94 mSSOURI AND KANSAS. CHAPTER VII. % Return to Spring River — Refl-gees Returning Home — Scarcity OF Houses — Camp at the Mouth of Centre Creek — On Spring River — Building a Cabin — Gathering Hay for the AYinter — Abundance of Game — Hunting Adventures — Wild Hogs — Deer — A Dead Shot — The Osage Indians as Hunters — A Burn- ing Prairie — Vivid Description — A Herd oy Deer — Winter Evenings — "The Good Time Coming." About the middle of October we began our journe}- to Spring river, southeastern Kansas, and arrived about the 20th of the same month, after a tedious and wearisome journe5^ During tlie two months that had elapsed since our first visit, hundreds of families had returned to rebuild or re-occupy their former homes. Very many found noth- ing of their former homes left standing but the chimneys ; and such were obliged to go into camp until they could provide themselves a permanent shelter. New comers were in the same category. Houses were at a premium, and not to be had at any price. Nine-tenths of the houses in this part of the country had been burned during the war. Our company went into camp at the mouth of Centre creek, on Spring river. As the winter months were close at hand, we went to work with a will, cutting down timber, hewing it, sawing it, and building therewith a shelter from the wintry storms. Right glad were we when the humble structure was completed. It was not a palace, but a home. Its roof kept off the rain ; its homely walls shut out tlie cold winds of the coming winter ; the fire blazed cheerity upon its generous hearth. What more did we need ? The dweller in marble halls lived not more royally than we. But work was essential. It was also enjoyable. It added muscle to the body, content to the mind ; it made our food SAveet, and our slumbers sound. Our party had brought with them a mowing machine, and, though late in the season, proceeded to gather a mn- jriSSOURI AND KANSAS. 95 ter's supply of hay from the prairie, in all about ten tons. Two crops of this hay may be gathered in every year ; the first in June or July, the last in October or November. Our own supply of food was of course an important item. The nearest points at which we could obtain provisions were Fort Scott and IMonnt Vernon ; the former, fifty-five miles north of us, the latter nearly as far east. A few staple articles we w^ere obliged to bring from these places, but our supply of meat was cheap, abundant, and close at hand. The woods were full of game and wild hogs. These latter we had the permission of the farmers who were the original, or possibly original ow^ners, to kill. They were usually in good condition, and made excellent food. The game proper consisted of deer, wild turkej's, geese, ducks, etc. As the winter advanced, the wild geese and ducks migrating from the colder regions became more plentiful, and we had more than we needed. Although others par- ticipated occasionally in the hunting, for some cause the writer hereof was singled out as the Nimrod of the party, and duly authorized to make forays upon the swine, the deer, and the feathered tribes. This may have been com- plimentary to his skill as a dead shot, or, what is more probable, out of deference to his apparently delicate health, and inability to share in the heavier work on the farm. At any rate, duly mounted, armed and equipped, I sallied forth daily in quest of venison and other food, and met of course with various and exciting adventm-es. The element of danger was indeed wanting. No deadly encounter with a grizzly' bear, or pitched battle with a catamount, or peril- ous set to with wolves can lend a thi-illing interest to these pages. The hunter who should come to these woods and prairies expecting game worthy a Du Chaillu, would find himself sadly mistaken. That he would " Chase the antelope over the plain, And bind the tiger's cub with a chain," 96 MISSOTJEI AND KANSAS. is more than doubtful. He would do no such thing. He would ride cautiously along a path, evidently beaten by domestic animals. He might possibly get a shot at a deer, or bring down a turkey, or a goose ; but in the absence of such game he would turn to the unfailing hog, game so ignoble, that he would consider the killing of such as a blemish upon his fair fame as a hunter. It is no better than slaughter to kill an animal that can neither fight nor run. Occasionally, however, a member of the swinish multitude can do both, and sometimes even a pig dies game. I was once riding out, armed only with a revolver, when a large hog jumped up a few hundred yards in ad- vance, and commenced running for the timber, nearly a mile distant. I gave chase and was soon near enough to lodge a l)all in his head. This only maddened him, and he turned and showed light, then ran, and whenever over- taken would turn to fight until another pistol ball sent him on his way again. His tenacity of life was wonderful. He kept up this running fight till eight pistol balls were lodged in his head and body, and after all he was not worth the killing, and I was obliged to leave his worthless carcass on the ground, amidst the jeers of my friends, who having heard my rapid firing, had come to see for themselves what magnificent game I had taken. Deer not unfrequently yielded up their lives in a manner as inglo- rious as some of these stupid Swine. Shortly after we camped at this place, a fine young deer deliberately ran up to within a few feet of one of our men, at work at the time, and was brought down by a bullet from a small revolver. Late one evening, a young man was returning in a wagon with some ladies, when two or three deer started up, ran a short distance and stopped in some high weeds, about fifty j-ards away. The young man taking a gun pointed it in the direction in which the deer were sup- posed to be, and fired. Hearing something fall, he groped MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 97 his way out in tlie direction that he had pointed his gun, and to his astonishment found a Large buck struggling in the death agonies. The ladies helped him lift it into the wagon, and he drove on rejoicing in the success of his first shot. A true hunter would not, perhaps, enjoy the killing of game under such circumstances as the last mentioned. His enjoyment is in overcoming ditiiculties and the display- of skill, strategy, and in accurac3^ of aim. Oar primary object was to obtain supplies' for the table, and we were consequently satisfied Avith less brilliant exploits than would have satisfied the professional Nimrod. Neverthe- less, Ave felt, as the winter advanced, more and more the charm of this wild life, and the bringing in of a deer, or any game worthy of our lead, was always an occasion for congratulation. The Osage Indians came from the Neosho river, 28 miles west of our camp, and killed great numbers of deer in our neighborhood. These experiencd hunters would set the prairies on fire, and as the flames swept onward with the wind, deer, wolves, and other animals would flee before them only to fall at last by the unerring rifle of the Indian. A grander sight than these burning prairies I have seldom or never witnessed. At night, espe- cially, was the scene sublimely grand. The red flames sweeping over the grass with the speed of a race horse, the lurid heavens, the dense volume of smoke, itself almost as luminous as the flames beneath, the terror-stricken an- imals in tumultuous flight, formed a spectacle not easily forgotten. A "Western poet has most vividly described the scene : " Out of the wood at midnight, Tlie swift red liunters came ; The prairie was their hunting ground, The bison was their game ; Tlieir spears were of glistening silver, Their crests were of blue and gold ; Driven by the panting winds of heaven, Their shining chariots rolled. 98 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. " Over that level hunting ground — Oh what a strife was there ! What a shouting — what a threatening cry — What a murmur in the air ! Their garments over the glowing wheels Streamed backward red and far ; And they flouted their purple banners In the face of each pale star." Our own most exciting chase occurred about Christmas. There had fallen about three inches of snow, the heaviest fall during the winter. Several of our party rode out together into the prairie, and encountered five or six deer that were coming toward us with the speed of the wind, evidently with the intention of taking refuge in the tim- ber. All attempts on our part to head them off" and drive them back into the prairie failed, and my comrades gave up the chase as useless. I followed them still farther, hoping to catch a glimpse of one and to obtain a shot, when, unexpectedly, I encountered a herd of twenty-six deer, standing upon the crest of a mound and gazing at me with evident curiosity and perplexity. The other members of the party meanwhile came up to them on the other side of the mound, whereupon, frightened by the number of my friends, they rushed toward me as being, probably, of no consequence, and for a while it seemed as if I should be trampled under foot bj^ them. My good horse however, proved at once an obstacle to them and a protection to me. I spurred him as though I would join the throng of panic-stricken fugitives, and by a dextrous shot was enabled to bring down the hindermost, which proved quite an acquisition to our store of provisions. The winter passed awaj^ pleasantly enough. The long evenings were devoted to books, to conversation, and to such games of skill as chess and draughts. Occasionally we had a lecture, for Ave were resolved not to be behind the age in any particular. Although nearly secluded from the busy world we kept up a lively interest in its MISSOURI AND KiVNSAS. 99 affairs, and perhaps relished what little information we received of passing events all the more because of tlic difflcultj' of obtaining it. Still we enjoj-ed our isolated position, and should have enjoyed it had we been entirely cut off from the great world, for we had what Crusoe on his island did not have, the companionship of sj-mpathis- ing friends. AYe spent our waking hours in healthy toil, or just as healthy recreations, in cheerful converse, and in listening to the rhapsodies of our friend, the philosophic Beam, who almost persuaded us that "the good time com- ing " had already come. CHAPTER VIII. Expedition to Arkansas — Reding 's Mill — Neosho — Pineville — A Dilapidated Village — Camp on Big Svgar Creek — Beautiful Winter Scene — A Rich Country — Climate Mild — Myriads of Birds — Winter Grapes — Benton County — Absence of the School Master — Human Vegetables — A "Native" Rip Van Winkleism — Madison County — Carroll County — Fruit — Soil — Climate — Our Return to Spring River — Baxter's Springs — Fertility and Value of the Lands knoavn as the "Government Strip" — Conclusion — "Homes for All." There were discontented spirits in heaven, and as j^et no earthly paradise has been free from them. Man is restless, not so much from the infelicities of his position as from- a desire to extend the domain of his knowledge. The prince in the happy valley pined to cross the moun- tain walls that shut him in. The desire to know more tempts man away from the threshold of home. With no better excuse than tliis a few of us determined upon fui'- ther explorations, and to leave, for a time at least, the happy dwellers in the vale. About the first of Januarj^, 1866, a couple of gentlemen from Allen county passed 100 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. through our settlement on their way to northwestern Arkansas, and five from our neighborhood, inchiding the writer, joined them. Our first camp was at Reding's Mill, a description of which has been given elsewhere. The second day we traveled as far as Neosho, the county seat of Newton county, Missouri, and on the third day we entered McDonald county, and passed through Pine- ville, the county town. The country passed over on the third day did not impress us as favorably as that passed on the two preceding days. It was hilly and much of the surface was covered with a species of white flint stones. The timber looked well. Pineville is a sadly dilapidated village at the head of Elk river. The county of which it is the capitol has some good lands, but is thinly settled, and was almost depopulated during the war. There are within its limits some very large pineries, and several steam saw mills are at work cutting the timber into planks. We camped the third night on Big Sugar creek, three miles east of Pineville. Although it was in the dead of winter, the evergreen hills before us and around us almost cheated us into the belief that we were in a land of i:)er- ennial spring. The breezes murmured softl}^ through the rustling pines, and diffiised their balmy odors far around. As we were preparing to go into camp, a large flock of wild turkeys crossed the road a couple of hundred yards ahead of us. What a golden opportunity for a shot ! The birds were too fleet for our "mighty hunters," and the bul- lets sent after them had the only perceptible effect of has- tening their flight. I had a beautiful sunset view from the summit of the hills near by, one of the finest I had ever looked upon. On the fourth day, we traveled eighteen miles on the Bentonville road. The country through which we passed was fertile in appearance. The rich bottoms of Sugar creek were especiallj'^ attractive. We noticed here I MIS.SOURI AND KANSAS. 101 vast quantities of winter grapes, luscious and tempting, millions of birds making merr}- over their endless feast. It seems as if the Author of all being, out of consideration for these little feathered songsters, had created this fruit as food for them during the dreary winter. We passed much delightful scenery. The hills along our route were covered with a fine growth of yellow pine, the timber from which, at no ver}- distant da}', must prove valuable. There are also to be found in these hills numerous indications of mineral, that one day may prove a source of wealth. Although the country is generally hill}^, there is occasiou- all}' a prairie a few miles in width, and rich and fertile as are most of our prairies. The remarkable mildness of the climate in this latitude, and at this season, rendered our winter tour very agreeable. We slept on the ground, with a few blankets beneath us, and were as comfortable as we would have been in June. The grass was green, and the buds on the maple and elm trees along the way were swelling as rapidl}- as in the northern States in April. The county (Benton) was thinly settled. The war had very materially interfered with its prosperity and retarded its growth. We saw but few people. Occasionall}^, we met with a genuine "• Arkansav/ traveler," sallow-faced, stoop- shouldered, lank, long-haired, angular, and awkward. The school master has not been abroad in this region, or at home either. School houses are very fcAV and far between ; in mau}^ places entirel}- unknown. What docs tlie " native " before-mentioned care for education, so long as he can get along witliout it? Nature has saved him the trouble of brain or hand labor. He lives on the good, free gifts of Nature. " Her trees in summer yield liim food, In winter fire." Where Nature does most for man, he does least for himself. The necessity for labor blesses those on whom 6 102 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. it falls ; idleness depraves and thoroughly demoralizes its unhappy subjects. Necessity sharpens the wits of men. The absence of it steeps their mental as well as physical being in indolence and dullness. There are places where men do not live in any true or exalted sense ; they simply vegetate as do the beets and carrots, lifting their heads it is true into the air and light of heaven, but rooted all the while to the sordid earth. An instance or two will be suf- ficient to show the low intellectual grade of these human vegetables. I passed one day a medium-sized dwelling, the general stj'le of which indicated an owner well-to-do in the world, and possibly one of the aristocrats of the neighborhood. The door stood invitingly open ; and wish- ing to rest awhile, as well as to form the acquaintance of the owner of the mansion, I approached the door, and was somewhat surlily invited to take a chair. The reserve of mine host wearing off, he became quite loquacious, and having been a rebel, he had a doleful story to relate of wrongs suffered at the hands of Old Abe, who was still, according to his account, violating the Constitution and ruining the country generall}^ and oppressing him in par- ticular, lie expressed the greatest surprise when I told him that the President had been dead almost a 3'ear. I asked him if the Arkansas Legislature had met during the winter. He did not know, but was certain they had not met in his neighborhood. If they had, he did not know it. He wanted to know if I was one of them fellows. He (lid not know the name of the county in which he lived, or whether it was a county or not. This man owned a fine farm and mill, and was probably a fair representative of the people of his neighborhood. A stoiy, not long since, went the rounds of the pa^iers, to the effect that a colpor- teur in this, or some of the adjacent settlements, asked a woman if there were any Presbyterians in the neighbor- hood. She, thinking that he referred to some species of »nSSOURI AND KANSAS. 103 catamount, or other " wild varmints," answered that she thought not ; at an}' rate, her husband liad not killed any tharabouts for a long time. IMany of the farmers had no title to their lands other tlian a squatter's title, and in other instances they had entered and improved a few acres, but had laid claim to large tracts of land adjacent. We would not leave the impression that this part of Arkansas is dark and benighted beyond all other portions of our countr}-, for we liave in mind a very secluded " settlement" in Indiana, where it is said the people still vote for General Jackson on election day, and consider all accounts of the late war to be Whig- lies, gotten up to defeat the hero of New Orleans. If these people in Arkansas still voted for Jackson, it would perhaps be better for them. Rip Van Winkles are Avell enough in their way, and are not noticed as long as they continue to slumber, but when they awaken the}' become ridiculous, and utterly fail, as these people do, to compre- hend the situation. Madison county, through which we next passed, did not very favorably impress our regard. It is well watered by King's river and its tributaries, and has plenty of timber, but it is mountainous and thinl}^ settled. Carroll county, lying east of Madison, is hilly, but well timbered and improved. It has on the hills abundance of pine, and in the bottoms a fine growth of oak. Grapes flourish here, and some of the oldest inhabitants told me that the peach crop has never been known to fail, and that apples and all the fruits of this latitude do equally well. The country has also mineral resources that some day ma}^ be profitabl}' developed. We satisfied ourselves as to the healthfulness of the climate, and returned to our friends with a good report of the country. Leaving the people out of the question, the part of Arkansas that we visited offers very decided advantages to those seeking a home. It is salu- 104 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. brious, and though hilly, Avell timbered, and a rich fruit growing region. There are small prairies well adapted to farming and grazing. Cotton, hemp, tobacco, and all kinds of grain grow here. There are plentiful indications of iron, lead, and copper. There are, in fact, few countries to be found equaling this in the richness and variety of its resources. To crown this exuberance of advantages, there are great quantities of government land not yet entered. Of course, many or most of the advantages named are shared by the contiguous counties in Missouri and Kansas, and in these States there are as yet greater social and political freedom and security. To enjoy the fairest' regions of the earth, we must forego many of the privileges and blessings enjoyed in localities not so well favored by nature. The emigrants from the older States must leave their churches and school houses, and other appliances of civilization, and come to a country as yet comparatively destitute of them. But let them only come, and the others will follow in their train. It is only a question of time. This broad and beautiful country will be — must be — reclaimed. We returned to our friends at Spring river, and made our report after the manner of the spies when they re- turned from the land of Canaan, not omitting mention of the Canaanites who dwelt over the border. In March, I visited Baxter Springs, on the government strip, which consists of a piece of land three miles in width and twenty-five miles in length, lying south of the Cherokee neutral lands, and east of the Neosho river. This country abounds in coal, oil, and timber, and has besides a fertile soil. South of this strip dwell the small tribes of Pawpaws and Delawares, with a few other tribes nearly extinct. They are partially civilized, and speak enough English to carry on trading transactions. It is difficult to speak of this country without praising MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 105 it. It is difficult to praise it justly without seeming to exaggerate its merits, and we shall, therefore, leave much unsaid. We do not ask the emigrant to accept our report without question. We may point out localities that will be found on examination to be all that we could desire, but he must, after all, judge for himself. Here is a l)road, beautiful, fertile country, open to all — inviting all. AVould any one know more of its beauties, let him come and see. We can not better close this imperfect description of this pleasant land, than by quoting entire a poem pub- lished anonymously, many years ago, in the Philadelphia Dollar Neii'spaper. True and spirited as it then was, it is now a hundred fold more applicable : "HOMES FOR ALL." " Let the staid old East in her pride grow gray, In an ardent song sing of days gone by ; Let her build her domes, stow her wealth away, And point to the graves where our forefathers lie — We will turn to the West, the strong young West, To the wilds that rang to the panther's call, To the sods the red man's feet have pressed, To the homes for the million — homes for all. __ "Let her sing of her Hudson's silvery sheen. Of her clear blue lakes and crystal rills. Of her rugged mountains, her valleys green, Of her blossoming meads, her emerald hills — We will shout for the West, the gay young West, For the vales where the sunset shadows fall. For the broad bright prairies in ileauty dressed, For the homes for the million — homes for all. "Let her sing of the deeds of Adams and Jaj-, Of the time when the souls of her sons were tried ; Let her turn to battlements worn and gray. Where her warriors fought and martyrs died — We will sing of the West, the blithe young West, Where the lierdsman lustily shouts his call. While his flocks come bounding in hosts abreast, Of the homes for millions — homes for all'. 106 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. "Let her point her sons to the Plymouth rock, To the pilgrim band by the desolate sea, Who dared the waves and the tempest's shock, For the glorious guerdon of liberty — We have Iniilded our homes in the wide, free West, Where a serf never lists to a tjTant's call ; And we shout to the world with a hearty zest, Here arc homes for her millions — homes for all. "Then adieu, to the East, the gray old Easlr, We have builded our hearths where the wild grass waves ; We have taken the lairs of the frightened beast. And we rest by the red men's sunken graves ; We arc strong in will with a yeoman's zest. And smile at the pride of a marble hall ; We have homes in the West, in the wild, wide West, And enough for the million — enough for all." IMPORTANT QUESTIONS ANSWERED. As I am in dail}' receipt of letters asking almost innu- merable questions, and as I can not take the time to answer each separately, it may not be amiss to devote a few pages to the answer of such questions as shall be of general interest to the capitalist and emigrant. A capitalist writes : '• Tell me candidly what j'ou think of the Southwest : will railroads be constructed, and land and property advance in value in the same proportion as it has in Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and other States in the last ten years?" Yes ; railroads wdl be constructed as fast as the people demand them ; /. e., as fast as stock, grain, and the south- western minerals demand an entrance to Eastern markets. The enterprising people of the Southwest appreciate too well the advantage of having the " iron horse " snorting through their hills and vallej's to remain there long with- out him. It is enough for me to say, that this countrj- is being filled up with the " universal Yankee." Thej^ will not long endure the tard}' motion of the stage coach. Several railroads are already constructed through this part of Missouri and Kansas, and several others are under contemplation, some of them under construction. As to the increase in value of real estate, I do know that with the advancement of the age, scientific improve- ments advance, and population increases ver}^ rapidl}'. New States, and especiallj^ Missouri and Kansas, arc being settled much faster than the preceding ones were. Of course the valuation of their lands must increase at 108 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. a corresponding ratio. Remember, this is eminently a " progressive age." Another writes : " How are political matters : are the people Radical or Conservative ? " I am aware this is a critical question — one which demands a candid answ^er. Let me say, this countiy is filled with just such people as 3-ou send it from older States, and the crossing of the "Father of Waters" has not eftected a great political or religious change in their sentiments. The people of this country are both Radical and Conserva- tive. Each party, in my judgment, has its radical and conservative elements ; that is, thej^ are mixed ; and each party is represented in every village and hamlet in the Southwest. Further, it is my opinion, that each part}' is beginning to look beyond mere partj^ to the truths of the higher law. Third question : " We hear of mobs, of regulators, and their hanging men ; of men being killed, etc. Is it safe for strangers to go to that country : is there not danger of their being mobbed, or waylaid, or robbed ? " In answer to this, I will state the fact, that I have traveled constantly for the last tw^o years through the Southwest. At times I have pursued my journey by night and day, alone and with companj^ ; at times have carried thousands of dollars, and I have never been molested, nor have I seen any very suspicious looking men or women. I do know that small countrj^ papers have blown quite a good deal over some xcry heroic deeds of certain good but misguided persons, calling themselves Regulators^ who, like " Saul of Tarsus," verily thought it their duty to resort to brutal measures to enforce the will of God. Like Paul, when the scales shall have fallen from their eyes, they will see that instead of enforcing the waj^s of heaven, and bringing the millennium by means of their mobocratic MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 109 reign, they will learn tliat they have only kindled a fire in which many of themselves must be consumed. Such will eventually learn, as all must, that the only effective Avay of overcoming evil is in good. All evil has its foundation in ignorance ; therefore, as a knowledge of truth and right increase, evil gives place to its opposite. Hence, I say, let the countiy be filled with law-abiding, intelligent citi- zens, who are capable of demonstrating in their daily lives that " God's ways are ways of pleasantness, and all his paths are peace." Pardon this digression. SuHice it to say, that many of the newspaper reports concerning the work of the Regulators have been grently exaggerated. A scarcity of items of news has probably been the cause. Really, I would feel more safe in traveling through Missouri and Kansas than in many of the older States, where robbers and gamblers crowd the streets and public places of the crowded cities, ever on the lookout to take advantage of the unwary. Another writes : "I am a common laborer ; is there a plenty of work to do in that new country, and what are wages ? " I answer : Every avocation open for man generally is open here. AVages range anywhere from fifty cents to five dollars per day. There are here, as in all other coun- tries, land sharks and speculators, who go on the principle, " Get all 3'ou can and keep all j'ou get." Still the im- provement of farms, building of towns, cities, and rail- roads, and developing of the latent mineral resources of the gi-eat Southwest, keeps up an unceasing demand for laborers. I feel quite safe in saying, that the demand for laborers is quite as great in these parts at this time as in any other part of the Union. There is a great demand for miners. For particular information upon this point. 110 MISSOURI AKD KANSAS. address a private letter to C. C. Root, or W. W. Donliam, Springfield, Mo. Hovrever, I can not close this paragraph without premising that the best opening of all is for the farmer. Those who come determine. i to subdue the earth, have here a climate, water, and soil all bidding them come. Another writes : " What of the society' of that new countr}^ : are the people morally on a level with those of older States ? " That, kind reader, depends much upon who gives the decision. The people here have been torn from theu' old associations, and new ones are continually being formed. " Our minister," " our church," and " our creed," are not held in quite the same reverence as in older States. This may be regarded as a blessing, or a curse ; much depends upon the eyes through which it is seen. To the one wear- ing green goggles, everj^thing is green. To the individual looking through old institutions, everything not j^artaking of them is, of course, not so well. While others, looking through other goggles, will saj' it is better. It is not the object of this book to judge of such matters ; it is enough that I state facts as they are concerning the great South- west. Perhaps the number of opinions concerning the moral status of this country could only be limited by the number answering the question. " The blind man never sees the sun, Altho' the sun doth shine ; The deaf man never hears the somid In melodies sublime." The soil, climate, water, timber, and people of the Southwestern portion of Missouri and Kansas offer such a diversity, that he who could not, in some part of it, find that which suited him, would be indeed hard to please. The broad acres, rich mines, and people of this country unite in inviting emigrants to its extended resources. MISSOURI AND KAKSAS. Ill Come with energ_y and muscle, and by labor prove the divinity of the saying, " The wilderness shall blossom as the rose." Still another writes : " AYhat of churches and schools ? " I answer : Everj' church is represented. There are "isms," and " ites," under every shade and name, from the Calvinist to the Spiritualist. AVhy should there not be? Our country is filled with such as once resided in the older States, about the onl}^ difference being, those coming here are usually men and women of energ}', while many in the older States simply remain there because of a lack of energy to get awa}-. The breaking up of old and forming of new relations, has caused manj- to grow wiser, and to see that there is truth, goodness and purit}- outside their own party ; and many are loving truth, purity and goodness for its own sake, not for the sake of a par- ticular church or creed. Forms and ceremonies are more rapidly in this than in other countries, giving place to true Christianitj'- ; men are looking more at the true spirit- work, becoming progressive Christians, and see their duty more each day in carrying a vital principle of godliness into their daily dealings with their fellow men than in external forms and ceremonies. THE HOMESTEAD LAW. There are j^et over 3,000,000 acres of United States government land in Missouri snhject to entry at $1.25 and $2.50 per acre, or subject to entry under the liberal provi- sions of the Homestead Act. For the purpose of furnish- ing the often desired information to immigrants, the law to secure homesteads to actual settlers is herewith pub- lished. Messrs. George W. Boardman, at Boonville, Mo., J. S. Waddell, at Springfield, Mo., and James Lindsaj^, at Iron- ton, Mo., Registers and Receivers of the United States Land Offices in this State, are prepared to receive appli- cations and aflidavits, the applicant paying the $10 fee stipulated in the act, and one per cent, as commissions to said officers, who will give any further information required. AN ACT TO SECURE HOMESTEADS TO ACTUAL SETTLERS ON THE PUBLIC DOMAIN. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, That any person who is the head of a family, or who has arrived at the age of twenty -one years, and is a citizen of the United States,' or who shall have filed his decla- ration of intention to become such, as required by the naturalization laws of the United States, and who has never borne arms against the United States government, or given aid and comfort to its enemies, shall, from and after the first of January, eighteen hundred and sixty- three, be entitled to enter one quarter section, or a less quantity of unappropriated public lands, upon which said person may have filed a pre-emption claim, or which may, at the time the application is made, be subject to pre-emption at one dollar and twenty-five cents, or less, MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 113 per acre ; or eighty acres or less of such unappropriated lands, at two dollars and fifty cents per acre, to be located in a body, in conformity to ihe legal subdivisions of the public lands, and after the same shall have been surveyed : Proviihd, That any person owning and residing on land may, under the provisions of this act, enter other land lying contiguous to his or her said land, which shall not, with the land so already owned and occupied, exceed in the aggregate one hundred and sixty acres. Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That the person applying for the benefit of this act shall, upon application to the register of the land office, in which he or she is about to make such entry, make affidavit before the said register or receiver that he or slie is the head of a family, or is twenty-one or more years of age, or shall have performed service in the army or navy of the United States, and that he has never borne arms against the government of the United States, or given aid and comfort to its enemies, and that such application is Jpade for his or her exclusive use and benefit, and that said entry is' made for the purpose of actual settlement and cultivation, and not, either directly or indirectly, for the use or benefit of any other jierson or persons whomsoever ; and upon filing the said aifidavit with the register or receiver, and on payment of ten dollars, he or she shall thereupon be permitted to enter the quantity of land specified : Provided however, That no certificate shall be given, or patent issued therefor, imtil the expiration of five years from the date of such entry ; and if, at the expiration of such time, or any time within two years thereafter, the person making such entry — or if he be dead, his widow ; or in case of her death, his heirs or devisee ; or in case a widow making such entry, her heirs or devisee, in case of her deatli — shall prove by two credible witnesses that he, she, or they have resided upon or cultivated the same for the term of five years immediately succeeding the time of filing tlie affidavit aforesaid, and shall make affidavit that no part of said land has Leen alienated, and he has borne true allegiance to the government of the United States, then, in such case, he, she, or they, if at that time a citizen of the United States, shall be entitled to a patent, as in other cases provided for by law : And provided further , That in case of the death of both father and mother, and leaving an infant child, or children under twenty-one years of age, the right and fee shall inure to the benefit of said infant child or children ; and the executor, administrator, or guardian may, at any time within two years after the death of the surviving parent, and in accordance with the laws of the State in which such children, for the time being, have their domicile, sell said lands for the benefit of said infants, but for no 114 MISSOURI AND KAKSAS. Other purpose ; and the purchaser shall acquire the absolute title by the purchase, and be entitled to a patent from the United States, on payment of the office fees and sum of money herein specified. Sec. 3. And be it further enacted, That the register of the land office shall note all such applications on the tract books and plats of his office, and keep a register of all such entries, and make return thereof to the General Land Office, together with the proof upon which they have been founded. Sec. 4. And be it further enacted, That no lands acquired under the provisions of this act shall in any event become liable to the satis- faction of any debt or debts contracted prior to the issuing of the patent therefor. Sec. 5. And be it further enacted. That if, at any time after the filing of the affidavit, as required in the second section of this act, and before the expiration of the five years aforesaid, it shall be proven, after due notice to the settler, to the satisfaction of the register of the land office, that the person having filed such affidavit shall have actually changed his or her residence, or abandoned the said land for more than six months at any time, then and in that event the land so entered shall revert to the government. Sec. 6. And be it further enacted. That no individual shall be per- mitted to acquire title to more than one quarter section under the pro- visions of this act ; and that the Commissioner of the General Land Office is hereby required to prepare and issue such rules and regu- lations, consistent with this act, as shall be necessary and proper to carry its provisions into effect, and the registers and receivers of the several land offices shall be entitled to receive the same compensation for any lands entered under the provisions of this act that they are now entitled to receive when the same quantity of land is entered with money, one-half to be paid by the person making the application at the time of so doing, and the other half on the issue of the certifi- cate by the person to whom it may be issued ; but this shall not be construed to enlarge the maximum of compensation now prescribed by law for any register or receiver : Provided, That nothing contained in this act shall be so construed as to impair or interfere in any manner whatever with existing pre-emption rights : Aiid provided fw-ther, That all persons who may have filed their applications for a pre-emption right prior to the passage of this act shall be entitled to all privileges of this act : Provided further, That no person who has served, or who may hereafter serve, for a period of not less than fourteen days in the army or navy of the United States, either regular or volunteer, under the laws thereof, during the existence of an actual MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 115 war, domestic or foreign, shall be deprived of the benefits of this act on account of not having attained the age of twenty-one years. Sec. 7. And be it farther enacted, Tliat the fifth section of the act entitled " An act in addition to an act more effectually to provide for the punishment of certain crimes against the United States, and for other purposes," approved the third of March, in the year eighteen hundred and fifty-seven, shall extend to all oaths, affirmations, and affidavits, required or authorized by this act. Sec. 8. And be it further enacted. That nothing in this act shall be so construed as to prevent any person who has availed him or herself of the benefits of the first section of this act from paying the minimum price, or price to which the same may have graduated, for the quan- tity of land so entered at any time before the expiration of the five years, and obtaining a patent therefor from tlie government, as in other cases provided by law, on making proof of settlement and cultivation, as provided by existing laws guaranteeing pre-exption rights. Approved May 20, 1862. W. W. DONHAM, Office, Uorth Side of Public Square, in Bank Building. Successfully prosecutes all claims against the United States, and State of Missouri ; and to all men in Southwest Missouri, and North- western Arkansas, who wish to engage in the Claim Business, wil^ furnish blanks, advertising matter, &c., and divide fees equally on claims taken. ■VST. W. DOETHAM, SOUTHWESTERN MISSOURI ISUEANCE AGENT, SPKINGPIELD, MO. Represents some of the best Fire, Life, and Accident Insurance Companies in the United States, both Eastern and Western, among which is the " Cincinnati Home," and " Fire and Marine," of Ken" tucky, Fire Companies ; the " Globe Mutual," of New York, and " Mis- sissippi Valley," of Kentucky, Life Companies; and the "Western Transit," of St. Louis, one of the leading Accident Companies in the West. Also, the "Missouri State Horse Insurance Company," Pal- myra, Mo., insures live stock against theft, also against death by disease or accident. This is beyond doubt the leading Live Stock Company in the West. "SAT, "v^. iDOisrKc^nyL, SPRINGFIELD, MO., Owns and has for sale the following described lands : 360 acres, lies twelve miles north of Warsaw, Benton County, Mo., on the main State Road from Sedalia to Springfield, Mo. 280 acres of high, nice prairie, every acre of which can be culti- vated, and 80 acres of splendid timber. This can be divided so as to make two beautiful farms of 180 acres each. There is everlasting stock water, 45 acres in cultivation, and house on it, with well dug and walled. This farm is in a fine locality for a country hotel and wagon yard, also for a stage stand. An energetic man, with a small capital, can, in a few years, make a fortune on this farm. MINERAL AND FARMING LANDS. In Jasper county, comprise a body of sixty thousand acres, and are principally situated in the north and northwestern parts of the county. These possess all the desirable characteristics of the best lands of the county. The surface is gently undulating, never break, ing into blutfs or hills, but is remarkably well drained. Good springs are everj-where abundant. They are chiefly composed of the wel^ known " mulatto soil," which is imiversally preferred to all others, and successfully endures the severest tests of farming. Tlie belt of land in which these are located can not be surpassed for general pro- duction and capability of high and continuous cultivation. For alj the purposes of the farmer, fruit grower, and stock raiser, no lands can be better adapted. They are located in a county Avhich all admit to be the best in Southwest Missouri, and which is rapidly filling up with the most desirable class of settlers. Mr. Frazier, with his usual enterprise, has sent to Germany for five hundred families to be located on his lands. Land is steadily rising in value. These lands are offered to actual settlers at $10 per acre, on nine years' credit without interest, no payments required until the ninth year. Deeds will be made upon payment of purchase monej' at any time within the nine vears. TEAZIER'S LANDS IN TANEY COUNTY Consist of several thousand acres of the finest mineral lands in the county or State. All who have examined the region in which they are located testify to the exceeding abundance and richness of the lead ore. Trof. Swallow, in his Geological Report, states that 20,000 pounds of fine ore were taken from a shaft but ten feet deep, and that a neighboring shaft yielded 170,000 pounds per week. New and extensive discoveries are being constantly made. No region can offer greater inducements to those interested in mining than this. Its great wealth is a fixed fact, and is only waiting to be fully developed. Apply to Wm. Frazier, No. 12 New Street, New York, or to O. S. Pitcher, Preston, Jasper County, Mo. FIRE Aisrr> m:akine INStTKANCE COMPANY, Home Office, S. E. (or. Fourth and Olive Streets, ST. LOTJzs, nyco. AUTHORIZED CAPITAL, $1,000,000. OFFICERS y^NT) DIKECTORS: GEOKGE STEWART, President. T. B. PARKER, Vice President and Sup't of Agency Department. W. H. ANDREWS, Cashier and Treasurer. G. H. DUNNING, Secretary. J. W. PARKER, General Agent and Adjuster. A. MAHAN, Assistant General Agent. J. W. MITCHELL, Attorney. This Company insures all classes of Property against loss or damage by fire and lightning, for a term not exceeding ten years. Policies issued on the Stock Installment and Mutual Plan. All losses equit- ably adjusted and promptly paid. S-KFERETsTCES. Hon. WM. r.rSIIOP, Treasurer of State. Hon. K. ,r. ()(;i.KSBY, (iovernor of Ills. Hon. J. K. SMITH, Hefjister of Lands. Hon. FRAN( 'I« KODMAN, Sec. of State. Hon. T. O. SMITH, Banker, Decatur, III. J. G. MCCLELLAND, Attorney at Law, St. Louis. \VM. A. BI! AWNEE, General Insurance Agent, St. Louis. Hon. C. C. SIMMONS, Attorney at Law, St. Louis. Hon. W. S. FIELDS, Attorney at Law, St. Louis. Hon. E. W. PRATT, St. Louis. GEO. STEWART, President, St. Louis. J. O. SLOAN, St. Louis. M. J. RYAN, firm of Mephaiu & Ryan, St. Louis. P. WONDERLY & CO., Commission Merchants, St. Louis. WM. B. THOMPSON, Attorney at Law, St. Louis. W. W. BUELL, Jlacon City, Mo. DR. WM. ENCILISH, St. Louis. DR. CIIAS. SPKACiUE, St. Louis. MITCHELL & KNIGHT, Attorneys at Law, X. ^y. Cor. Fourth and Walnut Streets, St. Louis. Dr. E. CLARK, St. Louis. CHAMI'HX, SMITH & CO., St. Louis. Hon. JOHN DONIPHAN, Missouri. BARTON ABLE, St. Louis. WESTERN BRANCH OFFICE OF THE HOME MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY, OF CINCINNATI, AT ST. LOUIS. M. L. HIGGINS, General Agent, SOUTHEAST CORNER OF FOURTH AND OLIVE STREETS. All of our Life and Endowment Policies are non-forfeiting after two annual payments. Dividends are declared annually, and paid in cash. Every person insured is a member of the Company, and is entitled to one vote for every $1,000 pohcy held. A ioan of one-half the table rates can always be had where the premium is over $40. No restric- tions on travel. The Home Mutual is purely a mutual company, and gives the full earnings of its business to its policy holders. Good terms offered to agents and solicitors for Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, and Illinois. M:. L. HIGGHNS, General Agent, ST. LOUIS. :ivro. T. li. BrV'ERS. A. SCHWARZOTT. ItlVEIiS & CO., 317 N. FOURTH ST., 224 N. FOURTH ST., Betw. Olive & Locust, S. E. Cor. Fourth & Olive. ST. Loxjis, m:o. OORNEE SIXTH STEEET AND WASHINGTON AVENUE, OPPOSITE TUE LIXDELL HOTEL, WHERE THE COMPORTS OP A HOME CJL.IT BE H-A.X) £"OE, .A-XjIj THOSE THJ^T IDESIItE. TERMS MODERATE. JOHN CA^Itli, Pi'oprietor. I THE STAR SHUTTLE PRICE, $25 TO S!00, fiCCORDING TO STYLE AND FINISH. IT com:bines Simplicity, Durability and Beauty, .A.ND HAS BUT ONE MOVING PIECE OF MACHINERY, STITCH ALIKE OK BOTH SIDES OF THE FABRIC SEWED, THAT WILL NOT RIP OR UNRAVEL! IT IS TKTJLTt' A. WONDERFUL ACHIEVEMENT OF IPESTIVE GEMUS AND MECHANIGAL SKILL! I^j!LTEITT:E3D 18S7. OrriOE AED SALES EOOM, 303 NOETH TOTJETH ST.,, ST. liOUIS, MO. S. E. HENDERSON & CO., Proprietors. FAST TIME BY THE INDIANAPOLIS LINE. ST. LOUIS, ALTON & TERRE HfiUTE RAILROAD, The Shortest and Quickest Konte between St. Louis and the East. SPRING AND SUMMER ARRANGEMENT FOR 1867. THREE EXPRESS TRAINS DAILY. Omniljuses call for passengers and bagscage, free of charge, and leave the Ticket Ollicc, new No. 105 Xorth Fourth Street as follows: No. 1 Eastern Express, 5.15 A. M. This train stops at Banker Hill for breakfast. Makingdirect connections forNew Yoik, Philadeli)hia, Bos- ton, Baltimore, Washington, and all Eastern Cities, from seven to ten hours in advance of the morring trains of com]ieting lines. The. bastern Express, leaving St. Louis Saturday morning, runs through to New York without any delay by Sunday intervening, ttventy-six hours in advance of all other trains. IWo. 2, Northwestern Express, 11.15 A. M., making immediate con- nection at Pana for Northwestern Points, about six hours in advance of all ,oilier trains. No. 3, LigMmng Express, 4.30 P. M., beings the well known fast train to the East, a specialty of this line for the past eight years. Sunday Train at 4.30 P. M. Friday Afternoon Train runs through to New York without deten- tion. Special Notice — Passengers leaving St. Louis at 4.30 P. M. in the splendid and popular Sleeping Cars of this line, enjoy a comfortable night's rest, arriving at Indianapolis at a seasonable hour "(5. 15) the next morning, where they change cars in a Union Depot. To those traveling for business or pleasure, (especially with families,) this route oilers advantages possessed by no competing line. Splendid State Eoeni and Section Sleeping Oars on all Night Trains. ALL CHANGES OF CARS IN UNION DEPOTS. TO SECURE FAST TIME AND PROMPT CONNECTIOKS, BE SURE TO PURCHASE YOUR TICKETS wxj^ iisrnDij^iNrj^:poi-.is, AT THE COMPANY'S OFFICE, NEW Xo. 10.> (OLD No. 32,) N. FOIRTII STREET, ST. lOUIS. F. M. COLBUBN, H. C. MOORE, ED^AT'D VERNON, Ticket Agent. den'tSupt, Gen' I Ticket A gt. CHAS. E. HABWOOD. JNO. W. LISENBET, COL. S. II. BOYD, Late Lt. Col. 8th Mo. Cavalry. Late Judge Circuit Court. HARWOOD, LISENBEY & CO., XVX4A.L iliOxilXxt iilxXiJNlXo FOK SOUTHWEST MISSOURI, AND AGENTS FOR Atlantic and Pacific Railroad Lands, LARGER LIST THAN ANY OTHER FIRM IN. SOUTHWEST MISSOURI. .«♦•♦» Any Business Connected with tlie United States land Offlcei Promptly Attended to. Taxes Paid. Investments made for Non-Residentsi with care and fidelity. HARWOOD, LISENBEY & CO., REFER, BY PERMISSION, TO Gov. T. C. rietcher ; Hon. Geo. W. Julian, of Ind.; Gov. Stone, of Iowa ; General Fremont ; Gov. Oglesby, of Illinois ; General Garfield, of Ohio. Office, North Side of Public Square, SPRINGPTELD, MO. TOPEKA, KANSAS. E. c. 'Ki. (3rJL^^'v:Erz', PROPRIETOR. JOHN FYFFE, ATI illl¥ AT IiAW, SPRINGFIELD, MO. Collections made and promptly remitted. Land purchased and sold, or managed for absent proprietors. BEFEREKCES. Messrs. MOODY, JHCHEL & CO.. St. Louis. Messrs. S. C. DAVIS i CO,, St. Louis. Messrs. BARR, DUNCAN & CO., St. Louis. PETER ZINN, ESQ., Cincinnati, Oliio. Atlantic and Pacific Railroad. Trains Leave the Pacific Railroad Company's Depot on Seventli Street, Making direct connections at Pacific with the Atlantic and Pacific Kailroad for Jerome and all intermediate points. Stages connect at Jerome for Waj'nesville, Lebanon, Springfield, Hartsville, and Neosho ; also, for Salem and the Sonthwest gener- ally. Passengers by this route arrive at Springfield seven hours in ad- vance of any other. Freight for points on this road is received at the Freight Depot of the Pacific Railroad in St. Louis. Information regarding the general business of the road can be re- ceived at the ofiice, No. 221 South Fourtii Street, corner of Myrtle. WM. B. BENSON, Superintendent. m ^^ mi (OF MISSOURI.) o'nIjY' all rail lihe TO KANSAS CITY LAWRENCE, TOPEKA, MANHATTAN, AND AND DIRECT ROUTB TO WESTON, ATCHISON AND ST. JOSEPH. TWO THROUGH TRAINS .LEA.VE ST. LOUIS AS FOLLOWS: Mail Train Every Morning, Except Sunday. Express Train Every Evening, Except Saturdays SLEEPING CARS ON EXPRESS TRAINS. THROUGH TO LEAVENWORTH, WITHOUT CHAN6E. Connecting at WYANDOTTE willi Trains on Union Pacific Railway, FOB LAWBiM©i, T@PiE'^^ ■^- <> T^m^,- ^- ^ -.5.^-* ^5, *'f..*' A >^ *-TCT*' ,0^ "o_.. 'o^.7- ^'^ o_ * °o ^' ^oV^ •-V ^ '°''*^&-'''"- /^'^^^v'i'"*- ^^ sJUL^ft-*^ : ,1* .•^&<. V„<' .•^^•. "--.*' ^0' 4 O' 'k^K' .oC