F a. A. '^^ * y '^^.y-: O ^1^^ .. '>^s§^> / \ *.% '^A V*' C^, ^ 7,--^^o' v%r';t-'%d5 .^■^ •^*. '&f<' ■0 r\ pma»»;»jAr -^ ,nui.i^a,.j^n,r^=,i.-^i,.. - OF -^h 11 IWASHINGTON /^'^ll ^ BOHN'S H^ISTD-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED WITH STEEL ENGRAVINQS OF ALL THE ^Public 33uitoiniis anO tjje €fobernment Statuarg. PREPARED BY CHARLES LANMAN, Esq. WASHINGTON: PUBLISHED BY CASIMIR BOHN. SOLD BY ALL THE BOOKSELLERS. 1856. Entered, according to fhe Act of Congress, in the year eighteen hundred and fifty-six, by CASIMIR BOHN, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the District of Columbia. 4-0 ^1 CONTENTS PAGK. The Seat of Government 5 The Capitol 12 The Executive Mansion 31 The Executive Departments : Department of State 35 Treasury Department 37 "War Department 38 Navy Department 39 Department of the Interior 39 Post Office Department 41 Office of the Attorney General 42 The National Observatory 42 The Washington Arsenal 46 The Navy Yard 50 The Smithsonian Institution 54 The Washington ]\Ionument 56 The National Medical College 58 The Columbian 'College 62 The Military Asylum 63 The Coast Survey Office 64 The National Cemetery'' 67 The City Hall , 69 The Public Schools 70 Mr. Force's Library 70 3 IV CONTENTS. The National Institute U The Churches of Washington 12 The Fine Arts in Washington T3 Associations and Societies H Washington Hotels T6 Official Salaries 77 Oflficial Receptions 78 The Markets of Washington 80 The Climate of Washington 81 Specific Duties of Executive Officers 82 Georgetown 103 Georgetown College 104 Academy of Visitation 106 The Female Semiuarj 107 The Aqueduct 108 The Georgetown Cemetery 109 The Little Falls 110 The Great Falls 110 Arlington House 112 Alexandria 114 Mount Vernon 116 Bladensburg 120 iaiiJ>-§floli d lliisljiitgtflit. THE SEAT OP GOVERNMENT. The object of this little volume is simply to supply Strangers, who may visit the National Metropolis on business or pleasure, with all the information of a local character, calculated to be of service to them. But before proceeding with details, it will be proper to give the leading facts connected with the establishment of the present Seat of the General Government. The idea of locating it on the Potomac was originally sug- gested by General George Washington, after long and mature deliberation, and the Act of Congress, which created the territory of the District of Co- lumbia, was passed on the 16th of July, 1790 ; — in the Senate by a vote of 14 to 12, and in the House of Representatives of 32 to 29. The law provided, however, that the Government should not be removed from Philadelphia to "Washington until the year 1800, and that the intervening 1* 6 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. time should be employed, under the direction of Commissioners appointed for the purpose, in pre- paring suitable buildings at the latter point for the accommodation of Congress, and of the Presi- dent, and for the Public Offices. The quantity of land set aside for National purposes was one hun- dred square miles, forming a square of ten miles, and spaning the Potomac River at the head of ship navigation : and the States which ceded to the Nation the necessary portions of their domain were Maryland and Virginia. The corner-stone of the District of Columbia was laid at Jones' Point, near Alexandria, on the 15th April, 1791, by Daniel Carroll and David Stuart, with all the Masonic ceremonies usual at that time ; and the corner-stone of the Capitol was laid, with similar honors, by General Washington, on the 18th September, 1793. Tlie design of the city was executed by Major L'Enfant, under the direction of Washington him.self; and the streets were chiefly laid out by A. Ellicott, and two gentlemen by the name of King. The limits of the city extend from north-west to south-east, about four miles and a half, and from east to south-west about two miles and a half. The streets, which vary from seventy to one hundred and ten feet in width, run from north to south, and from east to HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 7 west, crossing each other at right angles, with the exception of fifteen noble avenues, which point to that number of States, which were the first to enter the Union. The soil of Washington City and surrounding country is generally of a light clay or sand, and is cultivated at considerable ex- pense ; and while bilious and intermittent fevers prevail in certain localities in the fall of the year, as a general thing the place is as free from epi- demical diseases as any other in the country. Laid out as the city was, on an extensive scale, there is always a free circulation of wholesome air, and the best of water is to be found in all directions. The climate, for many years past, has been be- coming gradually more moderate and salubrious than it was in the olden times, and upon the whole may be pronounced as agreeable and healthy as that of any other section of the United States. The circumference of the city according to Mr. Wallerston is 14 miles, the aggregate length of streets 199 miles, and of the avenues 65 miles. The avenues, 'streets, and open spaces, contain 3,604 acres; and the public reservations, 10, 11 and 12, since disposed offer private purposes, 513 acres. The whole area of the squares of the city amounts to 181,684,176 square feet, or 3,016 acres; one-half of which, 1,508 acres, was re- 8 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. served for the use of the United States, and the remaining half assigned to the original proprietors ; 1,536 acres belonged to the United States. A more beautiful site for a city could hardly be obtained. From a point where the Potomac, at a distance of 295 miles from the ocean, and flowing from north-west to south-east, expands to the width of a mile, it extends back upon a level plain, hemmed in by a series of gradually slop- ing hills terminating with the heights of George- town ; the ]3lain being nearly three miles in length, from east to west, and varying from a quarter of a mile to two miles in breadth. It is bounded on the east by the Eastern Branch of the Potomac, where are now the navy-yard and congressional cemetery, and on the west by the Rock Creek^ which separates it from Georgetown. The small stream from the north, over which the railroad bridge now passes, on entering the City, emptied into a bay or inlet of the Potomac about 400 feet wide, which jutted in from the west, to within a quarter of a mile of Capitol Hill, and nearly divided the plain. Not far from the head of this, and south of Capitol Hill, a small stream took its rise in a large number of springs, and emptied into the river, at a place now called Greenleafs Point, formed by the intersection of HAND-BOOK 01 WASHINGTON. 9 the Eastern Branch with the Potomac, and was known as James Creek. There is a stream above Georgetown which has always been called Goose Creek; but, from a certificate of a survey now preserved in the mayor's office, at Washington, dated 1663, it appears that the inlet from the Potomac was then known by the name of Tiber, and probably the stream from the north emptying into it bore the same name ; so that Moore did injustice to the history of the place, and confound- ed streams, when he wrote the well-known line ; ''And Trliat was Goose Creek once, is Tiber now." By the same survey, it appears that the land, comprising Capitol Hill, was called Home, or Room, two names which seemed to have fore- shadowed the destiny of the place, Mr. Force, of Washington, suggests that they probably origi- nated in the fact that the name of the owner of the estate was Pope, and, in selecting a name for his plantation, he fancied the title of " Pope of Rome."* The Commissioners reported that the public buildings would be ready for the reception of the government in the summer of 1800. Accord- * Joseph B. Yarnum. 10 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTOX. ingly, the Executive were, in the month of June in that year, removed from Washington to Phila- delphia, and Congress commenced its session there on the third Monday of November following. On this occasion in his opening speech, President Adams said; — "I congratulate the people of the United States on the assembling of Congress at the permanent seat of their government ; and I congratulate you, gentlemen, on the prospect of a residence not to be exchanged. It would be unbecoming the representatives of this nation to assemble for the first time in this solemn temple without looking up to the Supreme Euler of the universe, and imploring his blessing. It is with you, gentlemen, to consider whether the local powers over the District of Columbia, vested by the Constitution in the Congress of the United States, shall be immediately exercised. If, in your opinion, this important trust ought now to be executed, you cannot fail, while performing it, to take into view the future probable situation of the territory, for the happiness of which you are about to provide. You will consider it as the capital of a great nation, advancing with unex- ampled rapidity in arts, in commerce, in wealth, and in population, and possessing within itself those resources, which, if not thrown away, or HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 11 lamentably misdirected, will secure to it a long course of prosperity and self-government." The Senate in their reply said;— -"We meet you, sir, and the other branch of the national legislature, in the City which is honored by the name of our late hero and sage, the illustrious Washington, with sensations and emotions which exceed our power of description." The House of Kepresentatives in reply, said: — ' ' The final establishment of the seat of na- tional government, which has now taken place in the District of Columbia, is an event of no small importance in the political transactions of our country. Nor can we on this occasion omit to express a hope that the spirit which animated the great founder of this city, may descend to future generations ; and that the wisdom, magnanimity, and steadiness, which marked the events of his public life, may be imitated in all succeeding ages. A consideration of those powers which have been vested in Congress over the District of Columbia, will not escape our attention ; nor shall we forget that, in exercising those powers, a regard must be had to those events which will necessarily at- tend the capital of America." 12 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. THE CAPITOL. As before intimated, the building of this edifice was commenced in the year 1793, with Mr. Hallet as architect, who was succeeded in that capacity by Mr. Hadfield, Mr. Hoban and Mr. Latrobe. During the Embargo and the accompanying war the work was suspended, and as the British sub- sequently demolished much of what had been accomplished by the above named gentlemen, the government in 1815 found it necessary to recon- struct the Capitol, when it was finished as it now stands, chiefly imder the superintendence of Mr. C. Bulfinch. It is situated on an area enclosed by an iron railing and including thirty acres. The building stands on the western portion of this plat, and is so elevated as to command a view of the entire City of Washington, including the heights of Georgetown, the windings of the Potomac and the City of Alexandria. The exterior exhibits a rusticated basement of the height of the first story, the two other stories are comprised in a Corinthian elevation of pilas- ters and columns ; these columns which are thirty feet in height form an advancing portico, on the east, one hundred and sixty feet in extent, the centre of which is crowned with a pediment of HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 13 eighty feet span; while a receding loggia one hundred feet in extent, distinguishes the centre of the west front. The building is surrounded by a balustrade of stone and covered with a lofty dome in the centre and a flat dome on each wing. The dimensions of the building are length of front 352 feet 4 inches, depth of wings 121 feet 6 inches, and height to the top of centre dome 145 feet. The cost up to 1828, when it may be said to have been completed was nearly $1,800,- 000. During the last session of Congress appro- priations were made for the further enlargement of the Capitol by the addition of two new wings of 238 by 140 feet each wing, and when these are completed, the whole Capitol, including the space between the wings and the main building will cover an area of four and one-third acres. The corner-stone of the extension was laid by President Fillmore on the 4th of July, 1851, with Masonic ceremonies, on which occasion the Hon. Daniel Webster delivered a brilliant oration. In further describing the Capitol we shall speak of its various leading features separately, and in the following order : — The Senate Chamber, the Hall of Representatives, the Kotundo, the Con- gressional Library, Chamber of the Supreme Court, together with the Capitol Grounds. 14 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. And first as to the Senate Chamber. This is in the second story of the north wing, of a semi- circular form, seventy-five feet long, and forty- five high; a screen of Ionic columns, with capi- tols, support a gallery to the east, forming a loggia below — and a gallery of iron pillars and railings of a light structure, projects from the circular walls, and the dome ceilings are enriched with square caissons of stucco. The walls are partially covered with drapery, and columns of hi'eccia, or Potomac marble support the eastern gallery. The chamber upon the whole is a hand- some affair ; but it is now felt to be too small for the comfort of so large a body as that which annually convenes there, and the access to it is notoriously inconvenient. The only painting which adorns the Senate Chamber is a portrait of Washington. This branch of the National Leg- islature consists of sixty-two members. The Hall of Representatives is also of a semi- circular form, and of course much larger than the Senate Chamber. It is in the second story of the south wing, ninety-six feet long and sixty feet high. It is surrounded with twenty -four columns of the variegated Potomac marble, with Capitols of white Italian marble of the Corinthian order, and surmounting a base of freestone, and HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 15 the dome of the Hall is painted in imitation of that of the Pantheon of Rome. From the cen- tre of the dome hangs a massive gilt chandelier, and high over the Speaker's chair, which is ele- vated and canopied, is placed the model of a colossal figure of Liberty supported by an eagle just ready to fly, the work of Italian artists named Causici and Valaperti, the last of whom is thought to have committed suicide soon after accomplish- ing this work. In front of the chair and im- mediately over the main entrance stands a statute in marble representing History recording the events of the nation. She is placed on a winged car, rolling around a globe, on which are delinea- ted the signs of the Zodiac, and the wheel of the car is the face of the clock of the Hall ; and this is also the work of a foreign artist named Franzoni. Two full length portraits, one of Washington and one of La Fayette, adorn the walls on either side of the chair, and in every direction are dis- played ample folds of crimson drapery. The galleries of this Hall are so extensive as nearly to encircle it, and the general arrangement of the room is such as to render the members and the audience as comfortable as possible. The number of Representatives is two hundred and thirty-four. 16 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. And liere it occurs to us, we ought to mention a few of the regulations which appertain to the Senate Chamber and the Hall of Representatives during the sessions of Congress. The gentleman whose duty it is to preside in the former is the Vice-President of the United States; but the Speaker of the House is elected to that position from its own body, and serves during all the sessions of one Congress. The only persons, be- sides members, admitted to the floors of the two chambers, are the President and his Secretary, the Heads of the Departments and Bureaus, the Diplomatic Corps, all Grovernors of States, and all the ex-members of Congress, ex-Presidents and ex-Governors, &c. &c.; as a privilege how- ever, the members can in person convey any friend to a seat in the lobby of the Senate or House. The regular business hours in the legislative halls during the sittings of Congress, are from 12 to 3 o'clock ; but when there is a pressure of busi- ness, towards the close of a session, it is customary to sit both day and night, — for many hours con- tinuously. Both houses of Congress are abun- dantly supplied with competent officers and clerks, under whose management all things usually go on like clock-work, and to any of whom every stranger may apply with perfect propriety for HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 17 what information respecting tlie Capitol they may reasonably desire. The next interesting feature of the Capitol that we would describe is the Rotundo. It occupies the centre, and is ninety-six feet in diameter, and the same number of feet high. The dome is hemispherical and filled with large plain caissons ; the room in its circuit is divided into eight panels, intended for paintings, all of which are already filled; and stationed between these panels are four has relievos of historical subjects ; one re- presenting the Preservation of Captain Smith hy Pocahontas, one the Landing of the Pilgrims on Plymouth Roch, one the Conflict between Daniel Boone and the Indians, and the other Penn^s Treaty with the Indians. In addition to these specimens of sculpture are also displayed, encir- cled with floral wreaths, the heads of Columhus, Raleigh, La Sale, and Cabot; — all these produc- tions of the chisel being from the hands of Cau- sici and Capellano* Of the paintings four are by Col. John Trumbull, one by Weir, one by Van- derlyn, one by Chapman, and one by Poicell. The subjects of Trumbull's pictures are first, the * In niches on the outside of the east door are also two statues of colossal size representing Peace and War, from the chisel of Persioo. 2« 18 HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. ^^Declaration of Independence,''^ the essential ob- ject of which was to preserve the portraits of the men who were the authors of that Declaration. As Col. Trumbull was one of the aids of General Washington in the Kevolutionary War, he had the best of opportunities for obtaining the por- traits from the living men, and the consequence is that we have authentic likenesses in this picture of the following personages : 1. — George Wythe, Virginia. 2. — William Whipple, New Hampshire. 3. — Josiah Bartlett, New Hampshire. 4. — Benjamin Harrison, Virginia. 5, — Thomas Lynch, South Carolina. 6. — Richard Henry Lee, Virginia. T. — Samuel Adams, Massachusetts. 8. — George Clinton, New York. 9. — William Paca, Maryland. 10. — Samuel Chase, Maryland. 11, — Lewis Morris, New York. 12. — William Floyd, New York. 13. — Arthur Middleton, South Carolina. 14, — Thomas Hayward, South Carolina. 15. — Charles Carroll, Maryland. 16. — George Walton, Georgia. 17. — Robert Morris, Pennsylvania. 18. — Thomas Willing, Pennsylvania. 19, — Benjamin Rush, Pennsylvania. 20. — Elbridge Gerry, Massachusetts. HAND-BOOK OF WASIIINaXON. 19 21. — Robert Treat Payne, Massachusetts. 22. — Abraham Clark, New Jersey. 23. — Stephen Plopkins, Rhode Island. 24.— WiJliam Ellery, Rhode Island. 25. — George Clymer, Pennsylvania. 26. — William Hooper, North Carolina. 27. — Joseph Hewes, North Carolina. 28. — James Wilson, Pennsylvania. 29. — Francis Ilopkinson, New Jersey. 30. — John Adams, Massachusetts. 31. — Roger Sherman, Connecticut. 32. — Robert R. Livingston, New York. 33. — Thomas Jefferson, Virginia. 34. — Benjamin Franklin, Pennsylvania. 35. — Richard Stockton, New Jersey. 36. — Francis Lewis, New York. 37. — John Witherspoon, New Jersey. 38. — Samuel Huntington, Connecticut. 39. — William Williams, Connecticut. 40. — Oliver Wolcott, Connecticut. 41. — John Hancock, Massachusetts. 42. — Charles Thompson, Pennsylvania. 43. — George Reed, Delaware. 44. — John Dickinson, Delaware. 45. — Edward Rutledge, South Carolina. 46. — Thomas, McKean, Pennsylvania. 4*7. — Philip Livingston, New York. The second of Trumbull's pictures represents the ''Surrender of General Burgoyne.^^ To the intelligent spectator it will tell its own story, and we shall therefore content ourselves with simply 20 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. giving the names of those distinguished officers whose portraits appear upon this canvas, which are as follows : 1. — Major Lithgow, Massachusetts. 2. — Colonel Cilly, New Hampshire. 3. — General Starke, New Hampshire. 4. — Captain Seymour, Conn., of Sheldon's horse. 5. — Major Hull, Massachusetts. 6. — Colonel Greaton, Massachusetts. Y. — Major Dearborn, New Hampshire. 8. — Colonel Scammell, New Hampshire. 9. — Colonel Lewis, Q. M. G., New York. 10. — Major-General Philips, British. 11. — Lieutenant-General Burgoyne, British. 12. — General Baron Reidesel, German. 13. — Col. Wilkinson, Deputy Adj't General, American. 14. — General Gates. 15. — Colonel Prescott, Massachusetts Volunteer. 16. — Colonel Morgan, Virginia Rifleman. lY, — Brigadier-General Rufus Putnam, Massachusetts. 18. — Lt. Col. John Brooks, late Governor of Mass. 19. — Rev. Mr. Hitchcock, Chaplain, Rhode Island. 20. — Major Robert Troup, Aid-de-Camp, New York. 21. — Major Haskell, Massachusetts. 22. — Major Armstrong, Aid-de-Camp, now General. 23. — Major-General Philip Schuyler, Albany. 24. — Brigadier-General Glover, Massachusetts. 25. — Brigadier-Gen. Whipple, New Hampshire Militia. 26. — Major Matthew Clarkson, Aid-de-Camp, New York. 27. — Major Ebenezer Stevens, Massachusetts, Command- ing the Artillery. HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 21 The third of the Revolutionary paintings re- presents the ''Surrender of the British Army^ commanded hy Lord CornwalUs, at Yorhtown, in Virginia.^' This picture contains the portraits of the principal officers of America, France and England, and their names are as follows : 1. — Count Deuxponts, Colonel of French Infantry. 2. — Duke de Laval Montmorency, Colonel of French Infantry, 3. — Count Custlne, Colonel of French Infantry. 4. — Duke de Lauzun, Colonel of Cavalry, French. 5. — General Choizy. 6. — Viscount Viomenil. T. — Marquis de St. Simon. 8. — Count Fersen, Aid-de-Camp of Count Rochambeau. 9. — Count Charles Damas, Aid-de-Camp of Count Eo- chambeau. 10. — Marquis Chastellux. 11. — Baron Viomenil. 12. — Count de Barras, Admiral. 13. — Count de Grasse, Admiral. 14. — Count Rochambeau, Gen. en Chef des Francais. 15. — General Lincoln. 16. — Col. Ebenezer Stevens, of the American Artillery. 11. — General Washington, Commander-in-Chief. 18. — Thomas Nelson, Governor of Virginia. 19. — Marquis La Fayette. 20.— Baron Steuben. 21. — Colonel Cobb, Aid-de-Camp to Gen. "Washington. 22. — Colonel Trumbull^ Secretary to Gen. Washington, 22 HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 23. — Major-General James Clinton, New York. 24. — General Gist, Maryland. 25. — General Anthony Wayne, Pennsylvania. 26.— 'General Hand, Adjutant General, Pennsylvania. 21. — General Peter Muhlenberg, Pennsylvania. 28. — ^Major-Gen. Henry Knox, Commander Artillery. 29. — Lieut. Col. E. Huntington, Acting Aid-de-Camp of General Lincoln. 30.— -Col. Timothy Pickering, Quarter Master General. 31.— Col. Alexander Hamilton, Com'dg Light Infantry. 32.-— Col. John Laurens, of South Carolina. 33.— Col. Walter Stuart, of Philadelphia. 34.— CoL Nicholas Fish, of New York. The fourtk and last of Trumbull's paintings represents the ' •Resignation of General Washing^ ton at Annapolis f^ and the following named por- traits are here collected : 1.— Thos. Mifflin, Pa., President, Member of Congress. 2. — -Charles Thompson, Pennsj^lvania, do. 3. — Elbridge Gerry, Massachusetts, do. 4. — Hugh Williamson, N. Carolina, do. 5. — -Samuel Osgood, Massachusetts, do. 6. — Ed. McComb, Delaware, do. *r. — George Partridge, Massachusetts, do. 8. — Edward Lloyd, Maryland, do. 9. — R. D. Spaight, North Carolina, do. 10.— Benjamin Hawking, N. Carolina, do. 11.— A. Foster, New Hampshire, do. 12.— Thomas Jefferson, Virginia, do. 13. — Arthur Lee, Virginia, do. HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 23 14. — David Howell, Rhode Island, Member of Congress. 15. — James Munroe, Virginia, do, 16. — Jacob Reid, South Carolina, do. IT. — James Madison, Virginia — (Spectator.) 18. — William Ellery, Rhode Island, Member of Congress. 19. — Jeremiah ToAvnley "Chase, Maryland, do. 20. — S. Hardy, Virginia, do. 21. — Charles Morris, Pennsylvania, do. 22. — General Washington, do. 23. — Col. Benjamin Walker, Aid-de-Camp. 24. — Col. David Humphreys, do. 25. — General Smallwood, Maryland, Spectator. 26. — Gen. Otho H. Williams, Maryland, do. 2'7. — Colonel Samuel Smith, Maryland, do. 28. — Col. John E. Howard, Baltimore, Md,, do. 29. — Charles Carroll and two daughters, Md., do. 30. — Mrs. Washington and 3 grand childi'en, do. 31. — Daniel, of St. Thomas Jenifer, Maryland, do. The subjects of the remaining pictures in the Rotundo are the ^ ' Einharcation of the Pilgi^ims from Leydeii,''^ by Weir, the "Landing of Colum- husj^ by Vanderlyn, the ''Baptism of Pocahon- tas,^'' by Chapman, and ''Discovery of the Missis- sijjj^i hy Be Soto,''^ by Powell. As these illustrate scenes connected with the very earliest history of our country, none but the leading figures are to be considered in the aspect of authentic portraits, and we therefore deem it unnecessary to particu- larize the various personages delineated. And as 24 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. our object in this book is simply to give facts, it cannot be expected that we should play the part of a critic, and we shall therefore leave the spec- tator the rare privilege of forming his own opinion, not only of *the pictures, but of every thing else that we may describe. We now come to speak of the Congressional Library which was, before the fire of 1851, one of the chief attractions of the Capitol. The prin- cipal Room, of which there were three, faced the west, and was a large and handsome affair, nine- ty-two feet long, thirty-four wide and thirty-six high : divided into twelve alcoves, ornamented with fluted pilasters ; and in every direction were displayed portraits and busts, cases of medals and other interesting works of art. The number of volumes which it contained was about 50,000, and the Catalogue, which was arranged on the system of Lord Bacon, comprised the following table of chapters: Ancient History, Modem History, of all the countries of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, American Newspapers, Ecclesiastical History, Natural Philosophy; Agriculture, Chem- istry, Surgery, Medicine, Anatomy, Zoology, Bo- tany, Mineralogy and Conchology, Occupations of Man, Technical Arts, Ethics, Religion, Com- mon Law, Reports in every department of Learn- HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 25 ing and Legislation, Politics, Mathematics, As- tronomy, G-eography, Fine Arts, and all the Standards in Polite Literature, with many valua- ble Original Manuscripts. The original Library, which was collected under the direction of Mr. Gallatin and Mr, Mitchell, in 1800, was destroyed by fire during the last war, and that which lately enriched the Capitol, was founded upon one which was purchased by Congress, in 1814, of Thomas Jefierson, for $23,000.* So much for the past. We would now describe the Congressional Library as it is and will be when entirely completed. It will embrace, when the two wings of the Capitol are completed, the entire western projection of the present Capitol ; and while the main room is 91 feet long, 34 wide, and 38 high, the second and third are each 29 feet wide by 70 long, and of the same height as the preceding. These rooms are all fitted up with iron cases, and iron ceilings, roofed with copper, laid on iron rafters, and lighted by ornamental sky lights. In addition to the above there are also two smaller rooms opening therefrom, which are employed by the Senators and Representatives as reading* and conversation *The yearly average increase is about 1,800 volumes. The sum of $5, 000 is annually appropriated by Congress for Miscellaneous Books, and $1,000 for Law Books. 3 26 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. rooms. Of the books in the old library, some 20,000 were saved, while the special appropria- tions of Congress have been so liberal that a large part of the works destroyed, excepting the valua- ble manuscripts, have been replaced. The main library room, as it now appears, embraces the" space occupied by the old library before the fire. On both sides of the room are three stories of iron cases, each nine feet six inches in height. The lower story consists of alcoves projecting eight feet six inches into the room, with cases on each side of the projections. The second story has similar alcoves, excepting that their projection is but five feet, which bears a platform of three feet six inches in width, resting on the cases below, and which constitutes a commodious gallery. A similar platform is constructed on the alcoves of the second story, forming a gallery to approach the upper cases ; thus making three stories, re- ceding as they ascend. These galleries are con- tinued across the ends of the room, where they are supported by massive brackets. The alcoves are nine feet eight inches in width, with an orna- mented pier forming the head of each projection. The architraves which cross the alcoves are fin- ished with shields, crowning bands and orna- ments. The shields are designed as tablets to HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 27 receive the names of the general subjects on which the book in the respective alcoves treat. The galleries are all floored with cast iron plates, and protected by pedestals and railings ; they are ap- proached by two semi-circular stairways of cast iron, recessed in the end walls of the room. The ceiling is wholly composed of iron ; it is suspended from strong iron trusses, which likewise constitute the support of the roof; it rests on twenty-four massy consoles, ornamented with foliage, fruits, and scrolls. Each of these consoles weighs nearly a ton. Their projection from the face of the walls is five feet six inches, their height five feet four inches, and their width twenty-one inches. The entire ceiling is divided into deeply sunken panels, and embellished with ornate mouldings and fo- liated pendants. The room is lighted, in addition to the five windows in the western front, by eight sky-lights, in the ceiling, each six feet square, filled in with ornamented glass, and protected by an upper sky-light of seventy-seven feet in length by ten feet six inches in width, placed on a cor- responding angle with the roof, and covered with thick plates of glass. The roof is covered with copper, secured by copper wire to the iron rafters. It is heated by hot water pipes. The affairs of the Library are indirectly in 28 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. charge of a Library Committee^ consisting of mem- bers from the two houses of Congress, but the immediate superintendents are a Librarian and two assistants, viz : John S. Meehan, E, B. Stelle, and C. H. W. Meehan. The public in general are privileged to visit the Library and examine books on the spot, but members of Congress and the officers of the Executive Departments are all who enjoy the privilege of taking away any books that they may desire. The Library is open every day during the sessions of Congress, and during the recess on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays of each week, from nine o'clock until three. The apartment for the accommodation of the Supreme Court is an ill-arranged, inconvenient and badly lighted room, in the basement under the Senate Chamber. It is semi-circular in shape, with manifold arches ; and on the wall is an em- blem of Justice, holding her scales, in bold relief, and also a figure of Fame crowned with the rising sun, and pointing to the Constitution of the United States, The members of the bar are ac- commodated with seats and desks in the body of the room ; and the Justices occupy a row of ele- vated seats, and appear in their official capacity clothed in black silk gowns or robes. The Bench of the Supreme Court, as it now stands, is com- HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 29 posed of the following gentlemen: — Roger B. Taney, Chief Justice, John McLean, James M. Wayne, John Catron, John McKinley, Peter Y. Daniel, Samuel Nelson, Benjamin R. Custis, Robert C. Grier: the Clerk of the Court and Deputy being William T. Carroll and D. M. Mid- dleton, and the Reporter, B. C. Howard. In addition to the apartments of the Capitol already specified, it should be mentioned that there are also a large number of ordinary, but well furnished rooms, which are occupied by the Vice- President, the Speaker of the House, and other Ofl&cers, by the Postmasters of Congress, the Public Documents, and the Committees of the two houses. In regard to the Capitol Grounds we have only to say, that they are not only extensive, but are kept in the very neatest order, constituting one of the very pleasantest and most- popular resorts for promenading to be found in the Metropolis. They command most charming prospects of the surrounding country, are adorned with a great variety of American trees, fountains and basins of pure water enliven them in various parts, and an air of superior refinement is given to them, by a number of pieces of statuary, the most at- tractive specimens being a Statue of Washington, 3* 30 HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. by Greenougli, and a pair of Columbus and an Indian Woman, by Persico, with bis statues of Peace and War, the former occupying the centre of a square east of the Capitol, and the others appropriate places on the eastern portico. On this side of the Capitol, moreover, is to be seen the lately completed colossal group of Statuary, called Civilization, executed by the lamented Greenough. It was finished in 1851, and occupied the artist eight years, besides a delay of four years, occa- sioned by his not being able in all that time, to obtain a block of Serravezza Marble suitable to his purpose. It consists of four figures, a mother and child, an American Indian and the father. The object of this group is to illustrate a phase in the progress of American Civilization, viz : the unavoidable conflict between the Anglo-Saxon and aboriginal savage races. Near the Western entrance to the Capitol stands a Monument erected by the Officers of the Navy to the memory of their brother Oflicers, who fell in the War with Tripoli. It is of marble, rises out of a pool or basin of water, and is forty feet high. On one side of the baso is a view of Tripoli and the American Fleet; on another the words, **To the Memory of Sommers, Caldwell, Decatur, Wordsworth, Dorsey, Israel;" and on HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 31 anotlier side, a brief but comprehensive history. At the base of the column are four marble emble- matic figures, Mercury, Fame, History, and America : the column has also appropriate embel- lishments, and is surmounted by an Eagle. But before leaving the Capitol it is proper that we should speak of it as it will appear after the wings now in course of erection shall have been completed. The dimensions of the two new wings are each 238 by 140 feet, so that when finished this national edifice will cover an area of about four acres, and will be, without exception, as it should be, the most splendid specimen of architecture in the United States. THE EXECUTIVE MANSION. The plan of this building was made by James Hoban, and the corner-stone was laid on the IStli of October, 1792 ; but having been partially de- stroyed during the last war, the same architect was employed to rebuild it in 1815. It is situated at the ' ' west end" of the city, at the intersection of Pennsylvania, New York, Connecticut and Vermont Avenues. It occupies the centre of a plat of ground containing twenty acres, and at 32 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. an elevation of forty-four feet above the waterg of tlie Potomac. For several years past the grounds both in front and in the rear of the Presi- dent's House have been in a neglected condition, but under the management of competent persona the grounds lying south of the Mansion are being transformed into a magnificent park, which when completed, will afford a fine carriage drive of three or four miles, the Potomac at one end, and. the Capitol at the other ; the Smithsonian Insti- tute and the "Washington Monument being situa- ted in its midst. Besides this, the same persons are planning the improvement of La Fayette and Franklin Squares into fine pleasure grounds. In the centre of La Fayette Square has been placed Mr. Mills' colossal equestrian statue of General Jackson. The Mansion in question is 170 feet front and 86 deep, is built of white freestone with Ionic pilasters comprehending two lofty stories of rooms, crowned with a stone balustrade. The north front is ornamented with a lofty portico, of four Ionic columns in front, and projecting with three columns. The outer inter-columniation is for carriages to drive under, and place company under shelter: the middle space is for those visitors who come on foot ; the steps from both leading to HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 83 a broad platform in front of the door of entrance. The garden front is varied by having a rusticated basement story under the Ionic ordonnance, and by a semi-circular projecting colonnade of six columns, with two flights of steps leading from the ground to the level of the principal story. The interior arrangements of the Executive Mansion are of course elegant and convenient, well adapted to the various purposes for which the building was designed; and as the rooms, both public and private, are newly furnished with the coming in of every new Administration, we deem it unnecessary to trouble the reader with elaborate descriptions. All the public rooms may be examined by strangers at any time, but His Excellency the President can only be seen during those hours which he is pleased to designate. During the sessions of Congress the President usually has two reception evenings, on which occasions the public at large are privileged to pay him their respects and promenade the famous East Koom. In addition to this it is generally ex- pected of him that during each winter he will entertain at dinner all the members of both Houses of Congress and the Diplomatic Corps, so that official dinners, have to be given by him as often as twice a week. The grounds immediately 64: HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. around the Mansion are quite beautiful in them- selves, but they present a particularly fine appear- ance during those summer afternoons when the citizens of "Washington assemble there by hundreds and thousands for the purpose of enjoying the music of the Marine Band and the pleasures of a fashionable promenade. In the centre of the small square immediately in front of the President's House, stands a bronze statue of Thomas Jefferson, executed by whom we know not, but presented to the Government by Capt. Levy of the United States Navy, the present proprietor of Monticello, the former abode of Mr. Jefferson. It is a handsome piece of statuary, and in its present position has quite a commanding appearance. A resolution of accep- tance however, was never passed by Congress, so that this statue may be considered as still the pri- vate property of Capt. Levy. Directly across Pennsylvania Avenue from the above mentioned square, is La Fayette Square, which, as before intimated, has recently been laid out in fashiona- ble style, and planted with new shrubbery. Mills' Equestrian Statue of General Jackson, occupies its centre, and is a work of superior merit. It is in bronze, and was cast from certain cannon captured by General Jackson in some of his military en- HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 35 gagements. The cost of this statue was ^50,000, and a duplicate was ordered to be executed for the city of New Orleans, which commission has been duly executed by the successful artist. THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. The number of these is seven, and their official titles are as follows: the Department of State, the Treasury Department, the War Department, the Navy Department, Department of the Int^ior, the Post Office Department, and the office of the Attorney General. The State Department, which stands north- east of the President's House and within the same enclosure, is a plain brick building, two stories high, 160 feet long and 55 wide, with a broad passage on both floors, and containing in all 32 rooms. It contains a handsome library of books, maps and charts, numbering perhaps some 15,- 000 distinct works, which are indispensable in the performance of the extensive and varied duties of the department. In addition to this collection, the Copyright Bureau contains some 10 or 12,000 volumes published in this country, which are kept with care as pai't and parcel of the archives of the 36 HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. Government. The total number of persons em- ployed in this Department consist of the Secretary, nineteen clerks, two messengers, and five watch- men. It is the department through which alone the diplomatic corps and all foreigners can hold any intercourse with the Government of the United States, and is of course the head-quarters of all the American Ministers and Consuls. And in this place it may be well to mention the countries which were represented in Washington at the commencement of the present year by accredited ministers, which were as follows : Russia, Argen- tine Republic, Spain, Chili, Mexico, Brazil, Great Britain, France, Portugal, Prussia, Denmark, Austria, Netherlands, the two Sicilies and Parma, Sardinia, Belgium, Chili and Peru. With regard to American Ministers and Consuls, it were enough to say, that they may be found scattered to the four corners of the earth, in every place where they would be likely to do good. In this depart- ment are deposited all our Treaties with foreign powers, the original of the Declaration of Inde- pendence, the commissions given to General Wash- ington with many of his most interesting letters, and also one of the most complete files of news- papers to be found in the country, all of which HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 37 may be examined by strangers, on application, during ojQ&ce liours. The Treasury Department stands at the east- ern extremity of the President's Square, (so called) and is a stone edifice, painted white, 340 feet long and 170 wide, but when the northern and southern wings are added it will be 457 feet in length. In front is an imposing colonnade, stretching the entire length of the building, and the architect of the whole was Robert Mills. It has three floors upon which business is transacted, on each of which are nearly fifty apartments. This is the department where all the financial and commercial affairs of the country are attended to, and the amount of labor performed here at times is immense. The persons employed in this de- partment are the Secretary, one Assistant Secre- tary, two Comptrollers, six Auditors, two Trea- surers, one Register, one Solicitor, one Commis- sioner of Customs, about three hundred clerks, fifteen messengers, and twelve watchmen. A good legal library is attached to this department. An extensive addition to this already large build- ing is now in course of erection, and it is only to be regretted that such a costly and imposing building should not have attached to it appropri- ate grounds. 88 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. The War Department building occupies the north-west corner of the President's Square, and is precisely eimilar in design to the State Depart- ment. It is the head-quarters of all the officers of the Ar?!!}^ and the main-spring of all the military movements. This department comprises in its economy the War Office proper, the Quar- termaster's Department, the Engineer's Depart- ment, Bureau of Topographical Engineers, Ord- nance Office, Subsistence Department, Pay De- partment, Medical Department, Office of Adjutant General and the head-quarters of the Major Gene- ral or military Commander-in-Chief of the Army. The number of persons employed in this depart- ment exclusive of the Secretary and Officers of the Army is as follows: — clerks, 92 ; messengers, 10; and watchmen, 5. Besides the many ac- complished and distinguished officers connected with the departments already mentioned, are those also employed in the field, belonging to the 1st and 2d Ptegiments of Dragoons, to the Regiment of Mounted Piifiemen, to the 1st, 2d, 3d and 4th Regiments of Artillery, and to the 8th Ptegiment of Infantry. The War Department is furnished with a valuable library of some 10,000 volumes, where may be seen, by the curious in such mat- ters, an interestin<2; collection of American medals HAND-BOOK OF WASHINaTON. 39 and a great number of war trophies from the battle fields of the Revolution, of the last war and of Mexico. The Naty Department building lies directly west of the President's House, and in the rear of the War Department. It has five Bureaus, exclusive of the Secretary's ofiice, viz : — Bureau of Navy Yards and Docks, Bureau of Construc- tion, Equipment and Repair; Bureau of Pro- visions and Clothing, Bureau of Ordnance and Hydrography, and Bureau of Medicine and Sur- gery. Besides the Secretary, the persons em- ployed in them, are forty-two clerks, and seven messengers. Scattered throughout this depart- ment are to be seen authentic portraits of many of our naval heroes, also a collection of medals struck to their honor at different times, together with a large collection of national flags and other trophies which have fallen from time to time into the possession of our commodores. The Department of the Interior, or Home Department is the most extensive connected with the Government. The building which it occupies is one of the most extensive and most interesting in the Metropolis. A portion of it is occupied by the Patent office, and also by the museum of the National Institute. The titles of the Bureaus 40 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. connected with, tlie Interior Department are as follows: — Land ofiice, Patent office, Indian office and Pension office. Exclusive of tlie Secretary and the Heads of the Bureaus, the persons employ- ed are clerks, about one hundred and fifty, messen- gers and watchmen, about twenty-five. As its name indicates, this department has to do exclu- sively with ail those matters bearing upon the internal economy of the United States, and is of course increasing in importance with every suc- cessive year. A library of some five thousand volumes is attached to this Department. In the second story of the building now occupied by the Patent office are the invaluable relics of Wash- ington, including his camp chest, the original Declaration of Independence, the gifts presented from time to time to the Government by foreign powers, Franklin's printing press, a collection of Indian portraits by King, the treasures of the National Institute, interesting memorials of the late James Smithson, and the extensive and rare treasures secured by the U. S. Exploring Expe- dition under Capt. Wilkes, in almost every de- partment of national history and human ingenuity. Everything here is open to the inspection of the public, and the Hall is one of the most interest- ing for the stranger to visit^ to be found in the HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 41 Metropolis. In tlie first story of the same build- ing are collected all the models of the machines which have been patented since the foundation of the Government. From the Patent office have emanated a number of interesting documents bearing directly upon the mechanical and agricul- tural interests of the country, and a large quantity of. seeds, domestic and foreign, are annually dis- tributed gratis to all persons who choose to profit by the liberality of the Government. One of the handsomest buildings in Washing- ton is that occupied by the Post Office Depart- ment. It was designed and built by Mr. Mills, of white marble and after the Corinthian order. It is three stories high, two hundred and four feet long, and one hundred and two deep : it con- tains twenty-seven rooms on each floor, making eighty-one in all. It occupies a central position in the city, near the Department of the Interior, both of which are about half a mile from the President's Square and the other departments. The employees are a Postmaster-General, three assistants, fifty clerks and six messengers. Con- nected v>^ith this department is the Dead Letter office which is an interesting place to visit. The number of unclaimed letters annually sent here is enormous. All the letters received are 4* 42 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON . opened by the clerks, and only read when found to contain money or other valuables, after which they are all consumed. The city Post Office is an unpretending build- ing adjoining the Greneral Post Office on seventh street. With regard to the Office of the Attorney General, which we have classed with the Exec- utive branches of the Government, we have only to say that it derives its chief attraction from the person who may occupy it, who must be of necessity, a man of distinguished ability. Rooms are assigned to him in the Treasury building, and it is to him that all knotty questions, in all the departments, are submitted for final settlement. Within a few years past the power to appoint all marshals and district attorneys has been transferred from the Department of State to this office. THE NATIONAL OBSERVATORY. The National Observatory is situated on the banks of the Potomac, in an oblique direction from the President's House, towards Georgetown. The site is a beautiful one, having a commanding ■'iew of Washington and Georgetown, of the HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 43 Potomac Eiver, and surrounding country, as far down as fort Washington, opposite to Mount Vernon. It is a Naval Institution under the control and management of Lieut, M. F. Maury, U. S. N. The force employed at it consists principally of Naval OiScers. Besides the Astronomical duties of the estab- lishment, here are kept all the nautical books, charts and instruments belonging to the Navy. The apartment in which the Chronometers are kept is a very interesting one. Before one of these instruments is purchased by Government^, it is required to be put on trial by the Superinten- dent of the Observatory, for one year ; during which period it is compared daily with the Great Astronomical Clock of the Observatory, which regulates the time for the whole City. The tem- perature of the room in which it is kept is also carefully observed, and recorded every day. The test is a severe one, and in case the instrument fails to come up to it, it is returned to the maker at the end of the year. The observations on the temperature in con- nexion with the performance of the Chronometer, enable the maker to improve the instrument, and 44 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. on a second trial of another year it rarely fails to pass. There are from 60 to 100 Chronometers al- ways in this room, all of which are daily wound, and compared and treated in the manner described. Thus a complete and minute history is kept of each one. Here also are conducted the celebrated re- searches connected with the ' ' Wind and Current Charts ;" the habits of the Whale, and a variety of phenomena connected with the great deep. The National Observatory of Washington oc- cupies a high rank among the Observatories in the world, there being but one — that of Eussia — superior to it. The largest telescope, called the Equatorial, is a 14 feet Refractor, with an object glass of 9 inches. It is mounted in the revolving dome on the top of the main building, and is so arranged with clock work and Machinery, that being di- rected to a star in the morning, it may be left alone, when on returning to it in the evening, it will have followed the path of the star so exactly, that it will be found still pointing to the star, and the star will be visible through it. With its powers the stars are visible at mid-day. In one room below are the Meridian and Mural HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTOX. 45 Circles. In another, the Transit instrument ; in another, the Prime Vertical Instrument ; and in another yet, the Great Refraction Circle invented by the Superintendent. It was made by Ertel & Son, Munich, and taken altogether is, perhaps, one of the finest instruments any where to be found. Such is the delicacy of its construction, and such the accuracy of its adjustments, and the nicety of its performance, that the heat of the observer's person, as he approaches it to make an observation, is found to be one 6f its principal sources of error. But perhaps the most wonderful object at this interesting Establishment is the Electro-Chrono- graph, invented by Dr. Locke, of Cincinnati. It is in the room with the Transit Instrument, and is so arranged, by its connexion with an electri- cal battery in the building, that its ticks may be heard in any part of the country to which the magnetic wires lead, provided they be put in con- nexion with it. Thus it may be made of itself to record the time, and in such a manner, that the astronomer in Boston, New Orleans or else- wfiere will know it, and tell the time of day by this clock, as well as one who stands before it and reads the hands on its face. The Observatory regulates the time for Wash- 40 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. ington and Georgetown bj the falling of a ball. At ten minutes before mean noon every day, a large black ball is hoisted to a flag staff, standing on the top of the dome. This is to give warning for those who wish to get the exact time of day to look out. Precisely at twelve, the ball drops. Thus the whole City is informed of the exact time. John Q. Adams, who was a devoted friend of the Observatory, and who used to visit it fre- quently in the last days of his life, has been known to walk all the way up to the Observatory from his lodgings, to see the ball fall. The Office hours at this Establishment are from 9 A. M. to 3 P. M. — within those hours, visitors will always find an officer ready to receive them and to show them every attention that politeness can bestow. THE WASHINGTON ARSENAL. The Arsenal occupies a fine position on the extreme southern point of the City, (called Green- leaf's Point,) at the junction of the Eastern Branch with the Potomac, commanding a beau- tiful and extensive view, over a broad expanse of water, towards the Cities of Washington and HAND-BOOK OF WASKINGTON. 47 Georgetown on the North and Alexandria on the South. The cljannels of both rivers running near the Arsenal shore, afford all requisite facili- ties for receiving and shipping Ordnance and other Military Stores. Although this site was originally reserved for the purpose of an Arsenal, it was not occupied by any building of importance until after the peace of 1814, when the building of the present establishment was commenced under the direc- tion of the late Col. George Bomford. From the small square embraced in the first plan the buildings have been gradually extended until they occupy nearly the whole reservation, and form one of the principal Arsenals of Construc- tion in the United States. The work-shops contain much useful and inge- nious Machinery, propelled by Steam, for manu- facturing Gun Carriages and Equipments for Ar- tillery, and for preparing ammunition of all kinds. Among these -may be noticed particularly the Machines for planing and boring iron and wood, those for tenoning and mortising the spokes and hubs of wheels. Blanchard's ingenious lathe for turning irregular forms in wood, such as spokes, axe handles, &c, , the machinery for making leaden Bullets by pressing them out of the bar lead 48 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. instead of casting them ; and above all, the beau- tiful machine for making and charging Percussion Caps, for small arms, invented by Mr. George Wright, a workman at the Arsenal. By this last mentioned machine, a sheet of Copj^er being in- serted on one side and some percussion powder put in a hopper on the other, the finished Caps are produced without any further agency of the workman In the spacious Storehouses of the Arsenal are to be seen Arms and Equipments for the troops ; also a large number of Gun Carriages and other apparatus for the service of the Artillery in the forts and in the field, from the ponderous Colum- biad for the defence of the coast, to the little mountain howitzer, which may be transported, with its miniature smith's forge, on the back of a mule. The Model Office contains a collection of models or patterns of the various arms and military Equipments used in our Service, and also of such of those used in the Armies of other nations as have been obtained by the Ordnance Department. Here may also be seen some specimens of old and new inventions, repeating Arms, Revolvers, &c., which have been suggested, at home or abroad, by the organ of destructiveness. HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 49 In the Gun lot are arranged many pieces of Ordnance and piles of Balls, mostly of heavy calibre for the armament of the forts. In front of the old Arsenal Square a small col- lection of foreign Brass Cannon will attract the notice of the visitor, who will perceive by the in- scriptions that some of them are trophies of the success of our Arms at Saratoga, Yorktown, Niagara, and Vera Cruz. The Guns and Car- riages of Duncan's Field Battery, which performed distinguished service on nearly every field of battle in the Mexican War, are likewise preserved at the Arsenal, as a saluting battery. On the West side of the Arsenal Grounds, near the river, are two pyramidal structures which often attract the curiosity of visitors and of persons passing by the Arsenal. These buildings contain an apparatus called a Ballistic Pendulum, which is used for testing the force of Gunpowder when fired in heavy Ordnance, and also for trying many other interesting .experiments in Gunnery. 50 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. THE NAVY YARD. The Navy Yard is situated on the Eastern Brancli or " Anacostia," a branch of the Potomac river, at the southern termination of Eighth street, East. It was established in the year 1800, on the public reservation No. 14, to which Squares No. 883 and 884 were subsequently added. Commo- dore Tingey was ordered to the command, and to him was assigned the duty of superintending the construction of the several vessels ordered to be built here, and also the general arrangement of the grounds, with a view to furnishing increased accommodation for the future construction and equipment of large Ships of War. The area covers about twenty acres, and is en- closed by a substantial brick wall, having a prin- cipal entrance at the foot of Eighth street, through a handsome arched gateway, designed by the late celebrated architect, Benjamin H. Latrobe, Esq. Several comfortable residences have been erect- ed for the accommodation of the Commodore, the Executive officer, the first Lieutenant, Surgeon, Sailing-master, Boatswain and Gunner, whose official duties require their constant attendance in the Yard. The mechanical operations of this Establish- HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 51 ment are various and extensive, and the skill of the workmen and the excellence of the materials employed have been satisfactorily tested in every sea. Anchors of all sizes, for the Naval service, are manufactured by the use of two heavy steam- hammers, (termed the "Nasmyth Hammer,") one of which weighs 3,600 pounds, the other 2,240 pounds. The forges for this work are kept in blast by a fan blower attached to the steam engine in the Machinist's department. There is also in operation, in the Anchor department, a Direct Action Steam-hammer (called the "Kirk Ham- mer,") in connexion with a blast furnace for work- ing up, into blooms and bars, all the scrap iron of the Navy. The massive chain cables, are made in another Shop, which is provided with a powerful Hydrostatic Press for testing their strength. These cables are highly esteemed for their superior finish, great strength and durability. From sixty to eighty men are ordinarily employed in this department. Another department is engaged in the manu- facture of Galleys, Cabooses, and copper Powder- tanks, and of the various kinds of brass work appertaining to Ships of War, The different machines employed in making these articles, are driven by a Steam Engine of about fifteen horse §2 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. power. A Brass Foundry is connected with this range of buildings, on the eastern side of the Yard. A large and extensive Iron Foundry has re- cently been erected, of sufficient capacity and with the necessary facilities for moulding and cast- ing the heaviest work ; connected with this foundry are the machines for boring, turning and planing the Steam Cylinders and other massive machinery required for the Naval Service. Adjoining the Iron Foundry are the Ordnance and Boiler-mak- ing departments, which are provided with a Steam Engine of about twelve horse power. The Ord- nance department is engaged in the fabrication of light brass Ordnance, Howitzers for boat and land service, of Shot and Shells, Percussion Caps, Musket and Pistol Balls, &c. Some of this ma- chinery is very ingenious and highly interesting. The Boiler Shop contains all the machinery neces- sary for tiie construction of Boilers. Close by this range of buildings, is a very ex- tensive Machine Shop, in which are placed all the tools required in the manufacture of Steam Engines and machinery of every description. When completed it will afford room for the em- ployment of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred workmen. Attached to this Shop is an HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 53 engine of sixty liorse power, which also gives motion to the Blockmaking machinery and to the Fan-blowers of the Anchor-making department. On the Western side of the Yard is the Pyro- technical Laboratory, in which are prepared all the articles for the Navy appropriate to this de- partment. A Rolling Mill is also here which is furnished with an engine of two hundred horse power, to- gether with the necessary machinery for manufac- turing all the bolt, sheathing, brazier's and boiler copper for the use of the Navy ; also, a Rolling apparatus, &c., for working up the bloom iron, made by "Kirk's Faggoting Hammer," into bolts and bar iron There are two large Ship Houses, for building Ships, under one of which is about to be con- structed a Marine Railway for hauling up steam- ers, for repair. In the Yard there are ordinarily employed from four hundred to four hundred and fifty Mechanics and laborers, but since the keel of the frigate Minesota was laid the workmen employed in the yard have averaged about twelve hundred. The grounds are beautifully laid out ; the avenues shaded with fine trees; the plats neatly enclosed, and the whole preserved in handsome order. 5* 54 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. This Institution was founded upon a bequest of more than half a million of dollars, made to the United States by an Englishman named James Smithson, a man of good family, and of sufficient learning to have published in the Transactions of the Royal Society and other Journals no less than twenty-four scientific treatises, the majority of which were on Mineral Chemistry. The object of the bequest, according to his will, was "To found at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an Establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." On the 1st of July, 1836, Congress solemnly accepted this important trust, and the money was paid into the Treasury of the United States in 1838. The Act of Congress establishing the Institution as it now exists, was passed in 1846. By this Act, the President, Vice President, all the Members of the Cabinet, the Chief Justice, the Commissioner of the Patent Office and the Mayor of Washington, during the time for which they should hold their offices, were made the per- sonnel of the Institution; and they are to be assisted by a Board of Regents, who were to be HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 55 empoTvered to elect a Chancellor, a Secretary, and an Executive Committee. The Institution is situated on the Mall below the Capitol, and though the edifice is yet in an unfinished state, it presents a noble appearance, and is unquestionably one of the great attractions of the Metropolis. The style of the Architecture is the Romanesque, the material a reddish free- stone of fine grain, its extreme length is four hundred and fifty feet, its width one hundred and forty feet, and it has nine towers varying in height from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty feet. The grounds which surround it are very .extensive, and are now in progress of being beautified by Mr. Downing. The Secretary of the Institution is Professor Joseph Henry, who has the reputation of being one of the most accomplished scientific men of the age, and the property of the Institution and its general operations are in his charge, and among his assistants are several gentlemen of high scien- tific and literary acquirements. To describe minutely the interior economy of this important establishment is not our intention in this place. We can only say that its beneficial influence upon the world at large has already been felt ; it has already printed and circulated a 56 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. number of valuable volumes, acquired collections in tlie way of natural history and scientific as well as general literature wliicli are very valuable and very interesting, and engaged distinguished men to deliver lectures. The great library room when completed will be capable of holding one hundred thousand volumes. The building is supplied with a lecture room, which will seat twelve hundred persons ; and its Museum, when completed, will be two hundred feet long, and filled with the wonders of nature and art from all parts of the world ; its rooms for Chemical experiments will be more spacious and convenient than any to be found in the country : and in the western wing which is one hundred and twenty feet long, wiU hereafter be located a gallery of Art. The col- lection of Indian pictures now on exhibition there is the property of Mr. Stanley the artist. THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT. As this Structure is not yet finished, we will not describe it as it is, but as it will be when com- pleted, according to the design adopted by the Board of Managers. It stands on the Mall, be- tween the President's House and the Potomac, HAND-BOOK OP WASETINGTON. 57 and embraces the idea of a grand circular colon- naded building two hundred and fifty feet in diameter, one hundred feet high, from which springs an obelisk shaft seventy feet in diameter at the base and five hundred feet high, making a total elevation of six hundred feet. The vast rotundo, forming the grand base of the Monument, will be surrounded by thirty col- umns of massive proportions, twelve feet in diam- eter and forty-five feet high, elevated upon a base of twenty feet in height and three hundred feet square, surmounted by an entablature twenty feet high, and crowned by a massive balustrade fifteen feet in height. The terrace outside the colonnade will be twenty-five feet wide, and the walk within the colonnade twenty-five feet. The front portico will be adorned with a triumphal car and Statue of the Illustrious Chief; and over each column around the entire building will be sculptured es- cutcheons, coats of arms of each State of the Union, surrounded by bronze civic wreaths, band- ed together by festoons of oak leaves, while the centre of the portico will be emblazoned with the coat of arms of the United States. Around the rotundo will be stationed statues of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence : in niches prepared for the purpose, statues of the Fathers 58 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. of the Revolution contemporary witli Washington ; and directly opposite to the entrance will be placed a statue of Washington himself. The interior of the shaft will be embellished with a great va- riety of inscriptions ; at one point it will be orna- mented with four of the leading events of Wash- ington's career sculptured in basso relievo, above which will be placed a single star, emblematic of the glory which the name of Washington has at- tained ; and in the centre of the Monument will be placed the Tomb of the Father of his country. THE NATIONAL MEDICAL COLLEGE. The National Medical College, instituted in 1823, is now in successful operation. It was until a few years past known as the medical de- partment of the Columbian College, from which institution it derives its authority to confer Degrees under an act of incorporation from the Congress of the United States. In assuming its present name it was newly or- ganized, and its facilities for instruction greatly extended. In addition to the usual advantages afforded for the prosecution of medical study within the insti- HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 59 tution, its location at the seat of the General Grovernment, offers collateral advantages not to be found elsewhere. The Library of Congress, the Library and Lectures of the Smithsonian Institu- tion, together with the various scientific collections and the scientific departments connected with the Government are all (without charge) accessible to students. The Lecture rooms of the College are in tho building of the "Washington City Lifirmary, uniting the advantages (after the manner of most Euro- pean medical schools) of public lectures, within the Hospital building where clinical instruction may be secured without loss of time or comfort to the student. The edifice is conveniently situated in a central part of the city — equally distant from the Capitol and President's House — near the principal hotels and boarding houses — and at the same time se- cluded from the noise and bustle of business. Clinical lectures are given daily at the bed side of patients, where students have an opportunity of seeing disease not only correctly diagnosite, but of observing for themselves the results of therapeutic and dietetic treatment. The wards of the Hospital being well filled with patients, presenting any variety of disease both acute and 60 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. clironic, furnish ample means for rendering this method very efficient and thorough. There is an Anatomical and Pathological Museum, containing a collection of preparations, models and drawings, to which the students have daily access, and which the Faculty are constantly enlarging. The advantages for the pursuit of Practical Anatomy are not surpassed by those of any other medical school. There are seven professorships which are all filled as follows : Thomas Miller, M. D., Professor of Anatomy and Physiology. William P. Johnston, M. D., Professor of Ob- stetrics and Diseases of Women and Children. Joshua Riley, M. D., Professor of Materia Me- dica, Therapeutics and Hygiene. Jno. Fred. May, M. D., Professor of the Prin- ciples and Practice of Surgery. Grafton Tyler, M. D., Professor of Pathology and Practice of Medicine. Robert King Stone, M. D., Professor of Mi- croscopical and Pathological Anatomy. Edward Foreman, M. D., Professor of Chemis- try and Pharmacy. James E. Morgan, M. D., Prosector and De- monstrator. HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 61 The Lectures of this Institution commence on the first Monday of November annually, and con- tinue until March. The entire expense for a full course of Lec- tures^ by all the Professors, is . . .^95 Practical Anatomy, by the Demonstrator, . 10 Matriculating Fee, payable only once, . . 5 Grraduating expenses, 25 Good board can be procured at from two fifty to three dollars per week, and the Janitor will refer such students as may apply to him upon their arrival, to boarding houses of this description. The requisites for graduating are, that the can- didate shall have attended the lectures of each Professor two full courses, or one full course in this school, and one full course in some other re- spectable Institution. He must have a fair moral character, and he shall have dissected during at least one session. He shall have entered his name with the Dean of the Faculty as a candidate for graduation, and delivered to him an Inaugural Dissertation upon some medical subject, thirty days before the close of the session, and pass a satisfactory examination. All persons who have attended two full courses of lectures in this school are entitled to attend succeeding courses free of expense. 6 62 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. THE COLUMBIAN COLLEGE. This Institution, whicli was incorporated in 1821, is beautifully situated on an eminence, adjoining the City Corporation on the North, and on 14th street West. It is a fine brick edifice, four stories high, and overlooks the City, Capitol, and other Public Buildings ; and commands a fine view of the Potomac, with the surrounding country, for many miles in extent. In beauty and healthfulness of position, it is unsurpassed ; and its local advantages are such as no other situation in the country can afford. Its proximity to the National Metropolis gives to young men the opportunity of observing dis- tinguished public characters; of becoming ac- quainted with the nature and operations of our Government; and of witnessing the highest ex- hibitions of talent, in the halls of Congress, and in the Supreme Court of the U. States. This is a great advantage, especially to those who are destined to public life; and its practical effects are seen, in the number of its Alumni who are now filling important and useful stations in society. The College has a good Library, a valuable Philosophical Apparatus, and other means and facilities for pursuing a thorough and liberal course HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 06 of studies. The last Catalogue, (1850,) embraces a President, and twelve Professors and Teachers — including those of the National Medical Col- lege, which is under the same Corporation — one hundred students ; and between two and three hundred Alumni. The expenses of a student, including board, tuition, and all College charges, are about §180 per annum ; for those who do not board in the College, it is about §65 or §70 per annum. THE MILITARY ASYLUM. The worthy establishment known by this name occupies a commanding hill on the northern limits of the city, and is a comfortable home for disabled soldiers and sailors. The buildings are all that could be desired for such an institution, and so are the adjoining lands, the whole of which was formerly the property of the well known banker, George W. Riggs, Esq. The drives leading to this retreat are among the most agreeable in the District, and upon one of them, is the country residence of the venerable and universally ad- mired Joseph Gales, Esq., whose collection of rare books and works of art is one of the most valua- 64 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. ble in the land. After Congress had appropriated the money for founding the Military Asylum, the honor of selecting the site was awarded to Grene- ral Scott, so that the citizens of Washington are indebted to him for gathering within the limits of the Metropolis the remnants of our military glory. THE COAST SURVEY OFFICE. The buildings occupied for the uses of the United States Coast Survey are situated on the West side of New Jersey Avenue, about a sixth of a mile from the Capitol. They consist of four old houses, in a block, presenting a decidedly rusty exterior, and in no way looking like public buildings. The room of the Superintendent, Prof. A. D. Bache, is at the North end, and that of the As- sistant in charge of the Office is at the South end. At present this place is filled by brevet Major J. J. Stevens, U. S. corps of Engineers. The office of Mr. Samuel Hein, Disbursing officer of the Survey is in the South middle building. Most of the rooms in the upper stories are appropriated to computers, draughtsmen and engravers. The HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 65 fire proof building South of the office, contains the Archives, or Records of Observations, the Library, the Standard Weights, Balances and Measures, the Instruments not in use, and the engraved copper plates. The Office proper includes all the Departments necessary for working up the materials, both as- tronomical, topographical, and hydrographic, sent in by the various observers. All these are under the general direction of the Assistant in charge, and under the special direction of their particular heads. The Departments are those for Compu- ting, Drawing, Engraving, Electrotyping, Print- ing, Publishing, Instrument making, and Ar- chives. When the computations are completed, the materials of the plane table and hydrographic sheets are worked up in the Drawing Department, for the Engravers. The engraved copper-plates are eiectrotyf)ed, and the printing is done mainly from these, the originals being preserved. The printed sheets are distributed for sale to agents in the principal cities. The Coast Survey Office, being essentially an office for work, presents but scanty attractions for visitors. Persons wishing to examine any of the methods or processes employed, or desiring in- 6* 66 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. formation about matters of the Survey, should apply to the Assistant in charge. As the construction of Standard Weights and Measures is carried on in the same buildings with the Coast Survey Works, and is under the same Superintendent, it ought to be mentioned that a visit to this department will greatly interest the visitor. Here may not only be seen much in the way of curious scientific operations but also a finished set of Standard Weights, Balances, and Measures, such as are furnished to the States and Custom Houses of the Union. The Assistant and Foreman of the department of Weights and Mea- sures is Mr. J. Saxton, who always takes pleasure in treating strangers with politeness and attention. The gentleman under whose superintendence all the complicated affairs of the Coast Survey are carried on, is Prof. A. D. Bache, whose reputa- tion as a man of science is co-extensive with the civilized world. He is assisted in his arduous duties by some thirty-five assistants and quite a large number of Navy Officers ; and it is a re- markable circumstance that the Superintendent has lost two brothers, both of whom were officers of the Navy, but employed upon the Coast Sur- vey,— one of them having perished in the waters of Pacific, and the other in those of the Atlantic. HAND-BOOK Or WASHINGTON. 67 THE NATIONAL CEMETERY. The National or Congressional Burial Ground is situated about one mile east of the Capitol, embraces about ten acres, commands an extensive view of the country, is well enclosed with a brick wall, laid out with taste, and beautified with trees and shrubbery. It was located in 1807, and ever since been in the keeping of an incorporated company. The Monuments are manifold and many of thefli beautiful ; and in addition to sev- eral private vaults is one spacious and well con- structed, enclosed by a neat railing, built by the order and at the expense of Congress, as a place of deposite, for the dead whose remains it may be the purpose of friends subsequently to remove. Measures have recently been adopted to en- large this Cemetery, and some twenty additional acres will soon be brought within its limits. The number of interments which have taken place up to the present time is six thousand. A visit to the "City of the Dead" cannot but prove interesting to the stranger visiting the Me- tropolis, and among the few and picturesque monuments which will attract his attention, are those to the memory of George Clinton, Elbridge 68 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. G-erry, Major General Jacob Brown, Joseph Lovel, Commodore Rogers' son, A. P. Upsher, Commodore Beverly Kennon, Lieut. G. M. Bache, Capt. B. A. Terrett, the wife of Peter von Schmidt, Judge Pendleton Barbour, and Peter Lenox. Quite a large number of Members of Congress have been buried here, and there is a mournful interest in wandering among the monuments which commemorate their names. "Glen WOOD Cemetery" is the name of another Cemetery which has recently been laid out by the citizens of Washington. It contains 90 acres at a cost of $10,000, and lies li miles north of the Capitol, the most direct way to it being by north Capitol street. Thirty acres are now pre- pared for interments, and a handsome framed lodge or gateway has been built, the front of which, is ornamented with figures of Time, Penitence, and Love. A large and beautiful mausoleum also, capable of containing 100 bodies has been erected at a cost of not less than $10,000. Its serpen- tine walks extend about four miles, and the sum of $35,000 has already been expended in beau- tifying the spot. HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 69 THE CITY HALL. This large and handsome edifice, tlie official home of the City Fathers, was commenced in 1820 and finished in 1850, it having remained a kind of ruin during most of the intervening time. It occupies a commanding position on Judiciary Square, is 200 feet in length, and after the stucco style of architecture. The Circuit and Criminal Courts hold their sessions in this hall ; also the members of the City Councils. The Mayor has his office here, and so also have a large number of the city Attorneys. In this connexion it may be well for us to give the Judiciary of Washington which is as follows : Circuit Court of tJie District. — Chief Judge, James Dunlop. Associate Judge, James S. Mor- sell. Clerk, J. A. Smith. Criminal Court for the District. — Judge, Thos. H. Crawford. -Clerk, John A. Smith. Orphans^ Court. — Judge, Wm. F. Purcell. Register, Edward N. Roach. 70 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS. The Scliools of Washington are quite nume- rous : Of free public schools there are four, with quite a large retinue of primary schools, which are carried on at an annual expense of about J12, 000. Select schools and seminaries for the edu- cation of both sexes, also exist in different parts of the City, several of them of a high and estab- lished character. Public attention has been strongly directed to these institutions, and per- laps in no other city are there to be found supe- rior advantages of education, which are annually on the increase. There are also several excellent boarding schools in Washington, and two or three in Georgetown. MR. FORCE'S LIBRARY. Although this is exclusively a private establish- ment, its reputation will warrant us in making a passing allusion to it. The number of volumes which it contains cannot be less than 50,000, comprehending a larger collection bearing upon the History of the United States, than can be found elsewhere under one roof, in this or any HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 71 other country. Some of the rooms attached to it, are al«o enriched with works of Art of ahnost every description, and it is just one of those places where the lover of old and rich books cannot fail to spend many pleasant hours. Col. Force is always at home, and takes great pleasure in treat- ing with attention those who may call upon him, provided they can appreciate the compliment and the privilege. THE NATIONAL INSTITUTE. The Institution was founded in 1840, and has for its object the promotion of Science in all de- partments. It holds its meetings and has its headquarters at the Patent Office, and the Presi- dent is Peter Force, Esq. It has a miscellaneous library of nearly 4,000 vols., pamphlets, maps and charts, with a few interesting manuscripts ; and in the cabinet are many medals and coins. The Library is always open to the inspection of the public. 72 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. THE CHURCHES OF WASHINGTON. The Metropolis is well supplied with Churclies, and considering its extent is quite as well supplied with eloquent preachers, as any city in the Union. Of Baptist Churches there are four, one on Tenth street, one on E, and two on Virginia Avenue ; their Congregations are all large and their pastors popular. Of Roman Catholic Churches there are four, St. Matthew's, on H street, St. Peter's, on Second, St. Patrick's, on F, and St. Mary's on Pifth. Of Episcopal Churches there are five, viz. Christ Church, on G- street, St. John's, on H, Trinity on Third, Epiphany, on G, and As- cension, on H. The Trinity Church edifice is one of the handsomest, devoted to religion, in the City — it is after the Glothic style of architecture. It is the Church where Mr. "Webster and Mr. Clay were in the hahit of attending, when in Washington. In this Church, as indeed in all the other Churches of the City, a certain number of pews are assigned to strangers. St. John's Church stands directly in front of the President's House, and when the President happens to attend there, is considered the meeting place of the ton. There is also one Quaker meeting held in the City, HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 73 on I street; and two Lutheran Churches, the English on H street, and the German on Gr street. Of Methodist Churches there are seven in the City: one on 4th, one on 14th, one on 5th, one on Massachusetts Avenue, one on Mary hind Ave- nue, one on 9th street, and one on Virginia Avenue. Of Presbyterian Churches there are six, one on F street, one on 8th street, one on 4|- street, one on H, and two on 9th street. There is also one Unitarian Church in the City, on D street; and of colored Churches there are some half dozen scattered about the City. In Georgetown there are two Episcopalian Churches, one Presbyterian, one Roman Catholic, and several Methodist and Baptist Churches. THE FINE ARTS IN WASHINGTON. In regard to its pictorial treasures the city of Washington mtiy boast of some creditable things. In one of the rooms of the Smithsonian Institution may be seen a large and very interesting collection of Indian portraits and Indian Scenes from the pencil of Mr. Stanley. At the studio of the veteran artist Mr. King may also be found many interesting portraits of men and women who have 1 74 HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. figured in Wasliington societies during the last thirty years. In tlie way of private galleries, which, through the liberality of their owners, are occasionally thrown open to the public, those of W. W. Corcoran, Esq. and J. C. McGuire, Esq. are the most interesting and extensive. In the former are represented such men as Cole, Hunt- ington, Gignoux, Leutze, and Fisher of the American school, Robbe of Dusseldorf, Moreland of the English school, and Mengs and Salvator Eosa of the Italian masters; while the presiding genius of the place is the original Greek Slave of Powers. In the latter gallery are two small pictures, said to be by Rubens, one by Wouver- man, one by Edmonds of New York, and a goodly number of others by talented artists. ASSOCIATIONS AND SOCIETIES. Of these, there is so great a number in Wash- ington that we can only give their titles without any comments or particulars. Of Masonic Lodges, there are no less than seven, viz : Eederal Lodge, Naval Lodge, Potomac Lodge, Lebanon Lodge, New Jerusalem Lodge, Hiram Lodge, and Grand Lodge. The Independent Order of Odd Fellows HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 75 have a very fine Hall, where 17 Lodges and En- campments are in the habit of meeting ; of the Order of Red Men, there are four Tribes and one Council ; of the Sons of Temperance 12 Divisions ; and of United Brothers of Temperance 4 Associa- tions. The Washington Asylum is a large brick building near the Congressional burial ground, with a large garden cultivated by the inmates. It is under the management of a Board of Commis- sioners, an intendant, matron and other necessary agents, all of whom are appointed by the Mayor and the Board of Commissioners. The City In- firmary is near the City Hall and is a resort for unfortunate strangers. The Orphan Asylum was erected twenty years ago, on what is called Mau- soleum square, owing its existence mainly to the generosity of the late Mrs. Van Ness. A society of Ladies was formed in 1815 to give protection and aid to orphans, and Mrs. Madison was ap- pointed first directress. Mrs. Van Ness was her successor, and for several years devoted herself to its interests. The association was incorporated by act of Congress in 1828. On this square, too, stands a mausoleum copied from the Temple of Yesta at Rome, erected by General John P. Van Ness, for his family and that of his wife's father, David Burns. The St. Vincent's Orphan 76 HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. Asylum, at the intersection of Gr and lOtli streets, has been rebuilt on a noble scale, and is liberally sustained by the Roman Catholics. The miscel- laneous societies of the city are the Columbian Typographical Society, Washington Library, Yini Lyceum, three Benevolent Societies, the Free- man's Vigilant Total Abstinence Society, and the Young Men's Christian Association. The Banks of Washington are the Bank of the Metropolis, Patriotic Bank, and Bank of Y^ash- ington; the Banking Houses, Biggs & Co., Chubb & Co., and Sweeney, Bittenhouse, Fant & Co.; and in Georgetown the Farmers and Me- chanics Bank is the only one of character. WASHINGTON HOTELS. Hotels are quite numerous, but not sufficiently so, even now, to accommodate the public. With one or two unimportant exceptions, they are all situated on Pennsylvania Avenue. The names of the principal ones are the National Hotel, Brown's Hotel, Willard's Hotel, the United States Hotel, the Kirkwood House, the Washington Hotel, (formerly Gadsby's,) and the American Hotel. All these hotels are supplied with the HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 77 best of a first rate market, and witli numerous and generally accommodating servants. From the doors of each, the stranger may at almost any moment step into a convenient and elegant omnibus, and go to almost any part of the city he may desire. The prices charged for board are not uniform, but the expenses generally, are by no means lower than in such cities as Phila- delphia, New York and Boston. Of private boarding houses there are a great number, and by lovers of quiet these are frequently preferred to the more public establishments. The Wash- ington Club have their quarters in a spacious building on President Square. OFFICIAL SALARIES. As Washington is reputed to be a place where people meet to intrigue for office and money, we have deemed it proper to allude to the salaries received by the leading officials. The annual compensation of the President is $25,000, that of each member of the Cabinet, of whom there are seven, $8,000, that of the A^iee-President §5,000, that of the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court $6,500, and the Associate Justices 0,000 78 HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. each. ^1 members of Congress receive eiglit dollars per day and mileage, while the Speaker of the House receives sixteen dollars per day. All heads of Bureaus receive ^3,000, and the Clerkships range from J2,500 to $750. As a general thing, the first of every month is pay day. OFFICIAL RECEPTIONS. Few strangers ever visit Washington during the sessions of Congress without being invited by a friend to a reception, and it is therefore proper that we should briefly allude to them. What we have already said of those held by the President, where the only ' ' entertainment" consists of good music by the Marine Band, is only partly true, when applied to the receptions held by the various members of the Cabinet. On one evening in each week do the Secretaries throw open their houses to the public, and though all strangers, when properly introduced, are cheerfully welcom- ed, it is not customary for residents to attend who do not receive cards of invitation, but these are always sent to all persons who have previously taken the trouble to leave their own complimen- tary cards. Some of the Judges of the Supreme HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 79 Court, and many of tlie more hospitable members of Congress, also, bold receptions at stated times, but as these usually partake of the character of private parties, they are attended only by special invitation. A species of entertainment called the Hop has lately been brought into vogue by the leading hotels, and better occasions than they afford for the thinker to study character, or for the young and joyous to have a good time gene- rally, are seldom met with anywhere. In this connection it may be well to add a few remarks on the etiquette of Washington generally. On the assembling together of Congress a sys- tematic exchange of calls takes place between the members of the Cabinet, members of Congress and the President. For strangers to call upon the President or the Secretaries upon business before or after the regular business hours is con- sidered improper, although this breach of etiquette is constantly committed to a great extent. As is usual in other' American cities, it is customary here for those who have attended any private entertainment by invitation, to call upon the giver of the party on the second or third day thereafter. With regard to the minor customs of polite society in the Metropolis, it is only necessary to state that all such matters here, as is the case in other 80 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. enlightened communities, are directed by the simple precepts of good breeding. THE MARKETS OF WASHINGTON". From hotels the transition to the markets of the town is natural. Of market houses there are four, but the largest and most important is Centre market on Pennsylvania Avenue. In describing this, we describe them all. A greater variety of good things can no where be found collected un- der one roof, than may at all times be found in Centre market. The highlands of Maryland and Virginia supply it with beef and mutton, that cannot be excelled, while the adjoining country pours into it a variety of vegetables that makes one wonder where they all come from. In the way of fish, the Potomac yields a great variety, the shad, rock fish or basse and the oysters, hav- ing no superior, in the country : — and no market is better supplied with venison, wild turkey, orto- lon, reed-birds and the famous canvas back ducks. And then again, although the Centre market building is by no means a classical one, yet no market in this land has been frequented by so many illustrious men, — such men for example as HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 81 Marshall and Jackson, Webster, Clay, and Jolin Quincy Adams ; and those who take pleasure in studying tho peculiarities of an interesting negro population cannot fail to be amused by a morning walk in and about the Centre market when busi- ness is in full blast. THE CLIMATE OF WASHINGTON. An erroneous opinion has for many years pre- vailed respecting the healthfulness of this city, — the grave yard records having conclusively proven the fact that there are very few more healthy localities in the Union. The climate resembles that of the adjoining States of Maryland and Virginia, and may be denominated as temperate. Many winters come and go without bringing a bit of snow, although the winter of 1855-6 will ever be remembered for its many severe snow storms and its excessive coldness. The summers are long and oftentimes oppressive, but the air is kept pure by frequent thunder storms. During the autumn, on the immediate banks of the Potomac, bilious and intermitting fevers prevail to a considerable extent, but the malarian influences do not last long, and those who have been acclftnated are 82 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. seldom subject to these diseases. The magnificent distances of the city have often been ridiculed, but the broad streets and avenues are undoubtedly of great service in admitting to every dwelling a free circulation of wholesome air, which, with good water, may be considered invaluable blessings. SPECIFIC DUTIES OF EXECUTIVE OFFICERS. With a view of facilitating the views of persons visiting Washington on business, we think it proper to mention the executive officers and to specify their several duties. DEPARTIVIENT OF STATE. The whole machinery employed to conduct the business arising out of our foreign relations with all the powers of the world is far more simple than is generally conceived. The number em- ployed in the Department of State of the United States is only seventeen, as follows : One Secre- tary of State, one Assistant Secretary of State, one chief clerk, twelve clerks, one translator, and one librarian. Diplomatic Branch. — This Branch of the State Department has charge of all correspond- ence between the department and all diplomatic HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 83 agents of tlie United States abroad, and those of foreign powers accredited to this government. In it all diplomatic instructions sent from the department, and communications to commission- ers under treaties of boundaries, &c., are pre- pared, copied, and recorded ; and all of like char- acter received are registered and filed, their con- tents being first entered in an analytic table or index. Consular Branch. — This branch has charge of the correspondence, &c., between the department and the consuls and commercial agents of the United States. In it instructions to those officers, and answers to their despatches and to letters from other persons asking for consular agency, or relating to consular afiairs, are prepared and recorded. The Disbursing Agent. — He has charge of all correspondence and other matters connected with accounts relating to any fund with the disburse- ment of which the departmrnt is charged. The Translator. — His duties are to furnish such translations as the department may require. He also records the commissions of consuls and vice consuls, when not in English, upon which exequaturs are issued. 84 HAND-BOOK OF WASSINGTON^ Clerh of Appointments and Commissions. — He makes out and records commissions, letters of appointment, and nominations to the Senate ; makes out and records exequaturs, and records, when in English, the commissions on which they are issued. Has charge of the library. Clerh of the Rolls and Archives. — He takes charge of the rolls, or enrolled acts and resolu- tions of Congress, as they are received at the de- partment from the President ; prepares the au- thenticated copies thereof which are called for ; prepares for, and superintends their publication, and that of treaties, in newspapers and in book form ; attends to their distribution throughout the United States, and that of all documents and publications in regard to which this duty is as- signed to the department ; writing and answering all letters connected therewith. Has charge of all Indian treaties, and business relating thereto. Clerh of Authentications and Copyrights. — He has charge of the seals of the United States and of the department, and prepares and attaches certificates to papers presented for authentication ; receives and accounts for the fees. Has charge of publications transmitted to the department under the laws relating to copyrights; records and indexes their titles ; records all letters from HAND-BOOK OF WASUIXGTON. 85 the department, other than the diplomatic and consular. Clerh of Pardons and Passports. — He prepares and records pardons and remissions ; and registers and files the petitions and papers on which they are founded. Makes out and records passports; keeps a daily register of all letters, other than diplomatic and consular, received, and of the dis- position made of them ; prepares letters relating to this business. ATTORNEY GENERAL'S OFFICE. The ordinary business of this office may be classified under the following heads : 1. Official opinions on the current business of the government, as called for by the President, by any head of department, or by the Solicitor of the Treasury. 2. Examination of the titles, of all land pur- chased, as the 'sites of arsenals, custom-houses, light-houses, and all other public works of the United States. 8. Applications for pardons in all cases of con- viction in the courts of the United States. 4. Applications for appointment in all the ju- dicial and legal business of the Government. 8 86 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 6. The conduct and argument of all suits in the Supreme Court of the United States in which the government is concerned. 6. The supervision of all other suits arising in any of the departments when referred by the head thereof to the Attorney General. To these ordinary heads of the business of the office are added at the present time the following, viz : First. The direction of all appeals on land claims in California. Second. The codification and revision of the laws of the District of Columbia. INTERIOR DEPARTMENT. Has one Secretary, and its clerical force con- sists of one chief clerk, one disbursing agent, and ten other regular clerks ; and to its supervision and management are committed the following branches of the public service : 1st. The Public Lands. — The chief of this bureau is called the ' ' Commissioner of the Gren- eral Land Office." The Land Bureau is charged with the survey, management, and sale of the public domain, and the issuing of titles therefor, whether derived from confirmations of grants made by former governments, by sales, donations, HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 87 of grants for schools, military bounties, of public improvements, and likewise the revision of Vir- ginia military bounty land claims, and the issuing of scrip in lieu thereof. The Land Office, also, audits its own accounts. Its principal officers are a recorder, chief or principal clerk of public lands, principal clerk of private land claims, and prin- cipal clerk of surveys — all of whom are appointed by the President and confirmed by the Senate — besides a draughtsman, assistant draughtsman, and some 106 clerks of various grades. 2d. Pensions. — The Commissioner is charged with the examination and adjudication of all claims arising under the various and numerous laws passed by Congress granting bounty land or pen- sions for military or naval services in the revolu- tionary and subsequent wars in which the United States have been engaged. He has one chief clerk, and a permanent corps consisting of some seventy other clerks, to which Congress, to ena- ble him to meet the extraordinary requirements of the new bounty-land law, has added a tempo- rary force of about fifty clerkships of different denominations. 3d. Indians. — The Commissioner of Indian Af- fairs is provided with a chief clerk and about fifteen othor subordinate clerks. (53 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 4tli. Patent Office. — To this bureau is com- mitted the execution and performance of all ' ' acts and things touching and respecting the granting and issuing of patents for new and useful discov- eries, inventions, and improvements:" the col- lection of statistics relating to agriculture ; the collection and distribution of seeds, plants, and cuttings. It has a chief clerk — who is by law the Acting Commissioner of Patents in the ab- sence of the Commissioner — ten principal and ten assistant examiners of Patents, besides some dozen other subordinate permanent clerks. Besides these four principal branches of this new executive department, the organic act of 1849 transferred to it from the Treasury depart- ment the supervision of i\\Q accounts of the United States marshals and attorneys, and the clerks of the United States court ; the management of the lead and other mines of the United States, and the afTairs of the penitentiary of the United States in the District of Columbia ; and from the State Department the duty of taking and returning the censuses of the United States, and of supervising and directing the acts of the Commissioner of Public Buildings. By recent acts of Congress, also, the hospital for the insane of the army and navy and of the District of Columbia is under HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 89 the management of this department ; and by as- signment from the President, it has added to its long list of duties the survey and demarcation of the unsettled boundary lines between the States and Territories and bordering nations. This department is at present very inconveni- ently separated and located, and should be appro- priately and permanently provided for. The Sec- retary's office occupies a portion of the new Pa- tent Office building, the General Land Office a portion of the Treasury building, and the Pension Office a portion of " Winder's building," now the property of the government, whilst the Indian Office is located in premises not fire-proof, and rented of their private owners. TREASURY DEPARTJIENT. The Treasury Department consists of the Sec- retary of the Treasury, two comptrollers, com- missioner of the customs, six auditors, treasurer, register, solicitor, light-house board, and coast survey . The following is a brief indication of the duties of these several offices and of the force employed therein respectively : Secretary's Office. — -Secretary of the Treasury; Assistant Secretary ; one engineer in charge ; one 8* 90 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. architect, and three draughtsmen temporarily employed, and twenty- three clerks. The Secre- tary of the Treasury is charged with the general supervision of the fiscal transactions of the gov- ernment, and of the execution of the laws con- cerning the commerce and navigation of the United States. He superintends the survey of the coast, the light-house establishment, the ma- rine hospitals of the United States, and the con- struction of certain public buildings for custom- houses and other purposes. First Comptroller's Office. — Comptroller, and fifteen clerks. He prescribes the mode of keeping and rendering accounts for the civil and diplomatic service as well as the public lands, and revises and certifies the balances arising thereon. Second ComjytroUer'' s Office. — Comptroller, and seventeen clerks. He prescribes the mode of keeping and rendering the accounts of the army, navy, and Indian departments of the public ser- vice, and revises and certifies the balances arising thereon. Offi<:e of Commissioner of the Customs. — Com- missioner, and eleven clerks. He prescribes the mode of keeping and rendering the accounts of the customs revenue and disbursements, and for the building and repairing custom-houses, &c., nAND-BOOK OF WASUINGTON. 91 and revises and certifies the balances arising thereon. First Audifo7'^s Office. — First Auditor, and nineteen clerks. He receives and adjusts the ac- counts of the customs revenue and disbursements, appropriations and expenditures on account of the civil list and under private acts of Congress, and reports the balances to the Commissioner of the Customs and the First Comptroller, respectively, for their decision thereon. Second Auditoih Office. — Second Auditor, and twenty-one clerks. He receives and adjusts all accounts relating to the pay, clothing, and re- cruiting of the army, as well as armories, arsenals, and ordnance, and all accounts relating to the Indian department, and reports the balances to the Second Comptroller for his decision thereon. Third Auditor''s O^ffke. — Third Auditor, and seventy-eight clerks. He receives and adjusts all accounts for subsistence of the army, fortifica- tions. Military Academy, military roads, and the Quartermaster's department, as well as for pen- sions, claims arising from military services pre- vious to 1816, and for horses and other property lost in the military service, under various acts of Congress, and reports the balances to the Second Comptroller for his decision thereon. 92 HAND-BOOK OF TTASHINGTON. Fourth Auditor's Office. — Fourth Auditor, and sixteen clerks. He receives and adjusts all ac- counts for tlie service of the Navy Department, and reports the balances to the Second Comptroller for his decision thereon. Fifth Auditor's Office. — Fifth Auditor, and six clerks. He receives and adjusts all accounts for diplomatic and similar services performed un- der the (iirection of the State Department, and reports the balances to the First Comptroller for his decision thereon. Sixth Auditor's Office. — Sixth Auditor, and one hundred and one clerks. He receives and adjusts all accounts arising from the service of the Post Office Department. His decisions are final, unless an appeal be taken in twelve months to the First Comptroller; and he superintends the collection of all debts due the Post Office Department. Treasurer's Office.— Treasurer, and thirteen clerks. He receives and keeps the moneys of the United States in his own office, and that of the depositories created by the act of the 6th of August, 1846, and pays out the same upon war- rants drawn by the Secretary of the Treasury, countersigned by the First Comptroller, and upon warrants drawn by the Postmaster General, and HAND-BOOK OF WASHING TON. 93 countersigned by the Sixth Auditor, and recorded by the Register. He also holds public moneys advanced by warrant to disbursing officers, and pays out the same upon their checks. Register's Oj/ice. — Register, ajad twenty-nine elerks. He keeps the accounts of public receipts and expenditures ; receives the returns and makes out the official statement of commerce and navi- gation of the United States ; and receives from the First Comptroller and Commissioner of Cus- toms all accounts and vouchers decided by them, and is charged by law with their safe-keeping. Solicitor's Ojjice. — Solicitor, and six clerks. He superintends all civil suits commenced by the United States, and instructs the United States attorneys, marshals, and clerks in all matters re- lating to them and their results. He receives returns from each term of the United Stafes courts, showing the progress and condition of such suits; has charge of all lands and other property assignt^d to the United States in pay- ment of debts, and has power to sell and dispose of the same for the benefit of the United States. Liglit-House Board. — This board directs the building and repairing of light-houses, light- ves- sels, buoys and beacons, contracts for supplies of oil, &c. 94 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. The duties of the Coast Survey have already been described. NAVY DEPARTMENT. The Navy department consists of the Navy Department proper, being the office of the Secre- tary and of five bureaus attached thereto, viz : Bureau of Navy-yards and Docks, Bureau of Construction, Equipment, and Repair, Bureau of Provisions and Clothing, Bureau of Ordnance and Hydrography, and the Bureau of Medicine and Surgery. The following is a statement of the duties of each of these offices and of the force employed therein : Secretary'' s Office. — Secretary of the Navy : cljief clerk; and eleven clerks. The Secretary of the Navy has charge of everything connected with the naval establishment, and the execution of all laws relating thereto is intrusted to him, under the general direction of the President of the United States, who, by the constitution, is commander-in-chief of the army and navy. All instructions to commanders of squadrons and commanders of vessels, all orders of officers, com- missions of officers both in the navy and marine corps, appointments of commissioned and warrant \ HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 95 officers, orders for the enlistment and discliarge of seamen, emanate from the Secretary's office. All the duties of the different bureaus are per- formed under the authority of the Secretary, and their orders are considered as emanating from him. The general superintendence of the marine corps forms, also, a part of the duties of the Secretary, and all the orders of the commandant of that corps should be approved by him. Bureau of Navy Yards and Docks. — Commo- dore, chief of the bureau, four clerks, one civil engineer, and one draughtsman. All the navy- yards, docks and wharves, buildings and machine- ry in navy-yards, and everything immediately connected with them, are under the superinten- dence of this bureau. It is also charged with the management of the Naval Asylum. Bureau of Construction, Equipment, and Re- pair. — Chief of the bureau, eight clerks, and one draughtsman. The office of the engineer-in-chief of the navy, is' attached to this bureau, who is assisted by three assistant engineers. This bu- reau has charge of the building and repairs of all vessels-of-war, purchase of materials, and the providing of all vessels with their equipments, as sails, anchors, water-tanks, &c. The engineer- in-chief superintends the construction of all ma- 96 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. line steam engines for the navy, and, with the approval of the Secretary, decides upon plans for their construction. Bureau of Provisions and Clothing. — A pur- ser United States navy, chief of bureau, and four clerks. All provisions for the use of the navy, and clothing, together with the making of con- tracts for furnishing the same, come under the charge of this bureau. Bureau of Ordnance and Ilydrographij. — Com- modore, chief of bureau, four clerks, and one draughtsman. This bureau has charge of all ordnance and ordnance stores, the manufacture or purchase of cannon, guns, powder, shot, shells, &c., and the equipment of vessels-of-war, with everything connected therewith. It also provides them with maps, charts, chronometers, barome- ters, &c. , together with such books as are furnished ships-of-war. "The United States Naval Obser- vatory and Hydrographical Office" at Washington^ and the Naval Academy at Annapolis, are also under the general superintendence of the chief of this bureau. Bureau of Medicine and Surgery, — Surgeon United States navy, chief of bureau, one passed assistant surgeon United States navy, and two clerks. Everything relating to medicines and HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. " 97 medical stores, treatment of sick and wounded, and management of hospitals, comes within the superintendence of this bureau. POST OFFICE DEPAETJIENT. The direction and management of the Post Office Department are assigned by the constitution and laws to the Postmaster General. That its business may be the more conveniently arranged and prepared for his final action, it is distributed among several bureaus, as follows : The Appoint- ment Office, in charge of the First Assistant Postmaster General; the Contract Office, in charge of the Second Assistant Postmaster Gene- ral ; the Finance Office, in charge of the Third Assistant Postmaster General ; and the Inspection Office, in charge of the chief clerk. Appointment Office. — First Assistant Postmas- ter General, and nineteen clerks. To this office are assigned all questions which relate to the establishment and discontinuance of post offices, changes of sites and names, appointment and re- moval of postmasters and route and local agents, as, also, the giving of instructions to postmasters. Postmasters are furnished with marking and rating stamps and letter balances by this bureau, which is charged also with providing blanks and station- 98 HAXD-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. erj for the use of tlie department, and with the superintendence of the several agencies establish- ed for supplying postmasters with blanks. To this bureau is likewise assigned the supervision of the ocean mail steamship lines, and of the foreign and international postal arrangements. Contract Office. — Second Assistant Postmaster G-eneral, and twenty-six clerks. To this office is assigned the business of arranging the mail ser- vice of the United States, and placing the same under contract, embracing all correspondence and proceedings respecting the frequency of trips, mode of conveyance, and times of departures and arrivals on all the routes ; the course of the mail between the different sections of the country, the points of mail distribution, and the regulations for the government of the domestic mail service of the United States. It prepares the advertise- ments for mail proposals, receives the bids, and takes charge of the annual and occasional mail lettings, and the adjustment and execution of the contracts. All applications for the establishment or alteration of mail arrangements, and the ap- pointment of mail messengers, should be sent to this office. All claims should be submitted to it for transportation service not under contract, as the recognition of said service is first to be ob- HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 99 tained througli the Contract Office as a necessary authority for the proper credits at the Auditor's Office, From, this office all postmasters at the ends of routes receive the statement of mail ar- rangements prescribed for the respective routes. It reports weekly to the Auditor all contracts executed, and all orders affecting accounts for mail transportation ; prepares the statistical ex- hibits of the mail service, and the reports of the mail lettings, giving a statement of each bid; also of the contracts made, the new service origi- nated, the curtailments ordered, and the additional allowances granted within the year. Finance Office. — Third Assistant Postmaster General, and twenty-one clerks. To this office are assigned the supervision and management of the financial business of the depai'tment, not de- volved by law upon the Auditor, embracing ac- counts with the draft offices and other depositaries of the department, the issuing of warrants and drafts in payment of balances reported by the Auditor to be due to mail contractors and other persons, the supervision of the accounts of offices under orders to deposite their quarterly balances at designated points, and the superintendence of the rendition by postmasters of their quarterly returns of postages. It has charge of the dead- 100 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. letter office, of tlie issuing of postage stamps and stamped envelopes for the pre-payment of postage, and of tlie accounts connected therewith. To the Third Assistant Postmaster General all postmasters should direct their quarterly returns of postage ; those at draft offices, their letters re- porting quarterly the net proceeds of their offices, and those at depositing offices, their certificates of deposite ; to him should also be direct<3d the weekly and monthly returns of the depositaries of the department, as well as all applications and receipts for postage stamps and stamped envelopes, and for dead letters. Inspection Office. — Chief clerk, and seventeen clerks. To this office is assigned the duty of re- ceiving and examining the registers of the arri- vals and departures of the mails, certificates of the service of route agents, and reports of mail 'failures ; of noting the delinquencies of con- tractors, and preparing cases thereon for the ac- tion of the Postmaster G-eneral ; furnishing blanks for mail registers, and reports of mail failures ; providing and sending out mail-bags and mail- locks and keys, and doing all other things which may be necessary to secure a faithful and exact performance of all mail contracts. All cases of mail depredation, of violation of HAND-BOOK OF WASmNGTON. 101 law by private expresses, or by tlie forging or il- legal use of postage stamps, are under the super- vision of tbis office, and should be reported to it. All communications respecting lost money, letters, mail depredations, or other violations of law, or mail-locks and keys, should be directed "Chief Clerk, Post Office Department." All registers of the arrivals and departures of the mails, certificates of the service of route agents, reports of mail failures, applications for blank registers, and reports of failures, and all complaints against contractors for irregular or imperfect service, should be directed "Inspection Office, Post Office Department." WAR DEPARTMENT. In the Secretary's office proper there are one chief clerk, seven subordinate clerks, two mes- sengers, and four watchmen. The following bu- reaus are attached to this department : Commanding GeneraVs Office. — This office, at the head of which is Lieutenant Greneral Scott, is at New York. Adjutant GeneraVs O^ffice. — Col. Samuel Coo- per, Adjutant General. Assistants — Lieut. Col. W. Gr. Freeman, Major George Deas, and Cap- tain Seth Williams. Judge Advocate, Major John F. Lee. Nine clerks and one messenjrer. 102 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. In this office are kept all the records which refer to the personnel of the army, the rolls, &c. It is here where all military commissions are made out. Quartennaster GeneraVs Office. — Gren. Thomas S. Jesup, quartermaster general ; Charles Thom- as, assistant quartermaster general ; Captain M. M. Clark, district quartermaster; Major H. C. Wayne, in charge of clothing branch ; eleven clerks and one messenger. Paymaster GeneraVs Office. — Col. B. F. Larned, paymaster General; Maj. St. Clair Denny, district paymaster ; eight clerks and one messenger. Commissary GeneraVs Offce. — Gen. George Gibson, commissary general ; assistant. Captain A. E. Shrias ; six clerks and one messenger. Surgeon GeneraVs Office. — Gen. Thomas Law- son, surgeon general; assistants, Dr. R. C. Wood and Dr. Richard H. Coolidge; three clerks. Engineer Office. — General Joseph G. Totten, chief engineer; assistant. Lieutenant John D. Kurtz ; five clerks and one messenger. Topographical Bureau. — Col. J. J. Abert, colonel of the corps ; assistant, Lieut. M. L. Smith ; four clerks and one messenger. Ordnance JBureau. — Colonel H. R. Craig colonel of ordnance ; assistant. Captain Wm. Maynadier; eight clerks and one messenger. QEORaETOWN. No stranger at the Seat of Government should "ever think of omitting a visit to Georgetown, which is on the Potomac above Washington, and only separated from it by a charming stream call- ed Rock Creek, It was formerly a place of con- siderable commercial importance, and is even now a thriving and busy place. It is connected with the Coal region of Cumberland by the Ohio and Chesapeake Canal, and with New York, Boston, and the West Indies by lines of sailing packets. The brands of flour exported from this city uni- formly command the highest prices in the north- ern markets, and much the largest amount of sugar consumed by the people of the District of Columbia is imported directly to this city in vessels belonging to its leading merchants. The lofty eminences that overlook the town from the North and West are known as the Heights of Georgetown. Along these elevations gentlemen of wealth have built their dwellings, and cultivated beautiful and extensive gardens. Here, when he was Secretary of War resided Mr. Calhoun, here also resided .Mr. Bodisco the Eussian Minister, and the Diplomatic Bepresen- 103 104 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. tatives of the French and English Governments reside hero at the present time. The prospects from these Heights, of the great Valley of the Potomac and of the entire City of "Washington, have been considered by travellers as unsiu'passed in point of grandeur and beauty by any thing of the kind in the United States. Among the attractions of Georgetown are the College, the Convent, the Female Seminary, the Aqueduct, the Cemetery and the Little Falls. GEORGETOWN COLLEGE, D. G. Georgetown College is situated on the north- ern bank of the Potomac at the west end of Georgetown, and commands a full ^aew of George- town, "Washington, the Potomac, and a great part of the District of Columbia. Its situation is peculiarly healthy. In the year 1785, five gentlemen, the principal of whom was the Rev. John Carroll, afterwards the first Catholic Archbishop of Baltimore, for- med a design of building ' ' An Academy at Georgetown, Potowmack River, Maryland." In 1789, the first house was built; in 1792 the schools commenced, and in 1798 we find it " The HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 106 College of Georgetown, Potomac River, State of Maryland." In May, 1815, Congress raised it to the rank of an University. In May, 1851, * * The Medical Department of Georgetown Col- lege" was opened in Washington, D. C. The College buildings are spacious, and contain a fine Library of 25,000 volumes, an extensive Philosophical Apparatus, and a neat Museum of Natural History. An Astronomical Observatory, sixty feet long by thirty wide and furnished with Instruments of the first class, stands three hun- dred yards West of the College. The Academic year begins on the 15th of Sep- tember, and ends on the last of July. The col- legiate Course of Studies occupies generally seven years, inclusive of the preparatory classes, which last four years, unless the proficiency of the Stu- dent authorize an abbreviation of that term. The English Department, for those who cannot devote the time to the collegiate Course, embraces all the branches of a' thorough English education. Math- ematics, and Natural Philosophy, together with French, included. The Public are admitted at all hours of the day to see the Establishment, and the President or some of the Professors, themselves, generally wait on visitors. 106 HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. ACADExMY OF THE VISITATION. This Academy, founded in 1799, is in a heal- thy and airy situation, on the Heights of George- town in the District of Columbia, contiguous to the eastern margin of the Potomac. The win- dows command a view of this magnificent river, and at a distance of the City of Washington. The ladies who are entrusted with the direction and care of the studies, are members of the Re- ligious Order, founded in 1610, by St. Francis de Sales, and directed at the commencement by St, Jane Frances Fremiot de Chantal. Meek- ness, benevolence, and a moderate indulgence constituted the character of those venerated bene- factors of society, in their direction of youth. It is the study of their daughters to display these virtues, in the fulfilment of the high obligations imposed upon them by the confidence of their friends. The course of instruction comprises Orthogra- phy, Reading, Writing, Arithmetic, Grammar, Ancient and Modern Geography, the use of the Globes, Prose and Poetical Composition, SacrecJ and Profane History, Mythology, Rhetoric, As- tronomy, Moral and Natural Philosophy, Chem- HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 107 isirj, Mineralogy, Botany, G-eometry, Algebra, Book-keeping, French, Spanish, Italian, German, and Latin Languages, Music on the Piano, Harp, Guitar, and Organ, Vocal Music, Drawing, Painting in Water Colors, in Oil, and on Velvet, Plain and Ornamental Needle Work, Tapestry, Lace Work, Bead Work, &c. A public distribution of premiums takes place on the last Wednesday of July. The annual vacation commences on the last Thursday of July — the exercises re-commence on the first Monday in September. As regards the exact observance of rules, polite deportment, and zeal for advancement, the young ladies are divided into two circles. A crown and gold medal are awarded to the first in the Senior Circle, and a crown is awarded to the first in the Junior Circle. Strangers are permitted to visit the Academy every day excepting Sunday ; the most conveni- ent hours are from 11 until 2 o'clock. THE FEMALE SEMINARY. This occupies an extensive building in the centre of the town, and is under the superinten- 108 HAND-BOaK GF WASHINGTON. dence of Rev. W. J. Clark, but the founder of the school was Miss Lydia English. The insti- tution has long been considered one of the best in the Union of the kind, the teachers are numer- ous and highly accomplished, and the young ladies who attend here, are taught not only all the ordinary branches of education, but also all the elegant accomplishments of the day, Music, Drawing, and the Languages. Pupils have been sent from this Seminary into all parts of the Union, enriched with the knowledge and adorned with the graces, which it has ever imparted with remarkable success. THE AQUEDUCT Which spans the Potomac at Georgetown, is a stupendous work, and has attracted the atten- tion of European as well as 'American architects and men of science. It was constructed by Ma- jor Turnbull, of the Topographical Engineers, and cost nearly $2,000,000. It has nine piers, whose foundations, which are of granite, are no less than thirty-six feet under icater; it is fourteen hundred and forty-six feet long, and rises above the water about forty feet. It connects the Ohio HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 109 and Chesapeake Canal with Alexandria. The scenery of the river at this point, is varied and interesting. THE GEORGETOWN CEMETEEY Is located on the heights of the town, and is one of its chief ornaments. It was laid out at the expense, and under the direction of the wealthy and very noble-hearted Banker, William W. Corcoran, Esq., as a tribute of his affection for the place of his birth. The situation directly on Kock Creek is romantic to a great degree, and the best taste has been displayed in its arrange- ment. It has a porter's lodge, a receiving tomb, and a beautiful Gothic chapel, which combine to make a visit to the spot quite entertaining. THE LITTLE FALLS. These are about three miles above Georgetown, and at the head of tide water. The great Poto- mac is here so greatly contracted that a stone can be easily tossed from one shore to the other ; the fall of water is about fifteen feet ; the surrounding scenery is wild and exceedingly picturesque ; and the spot is particularly famous as a resort for the followers of the gentle art. The principal game fish caught here are the rock fish or striped basse, and the spot is sometimes visited by the anglers of places as remote as Baltimore and Charleston. The fame of the little falls has been somewhat increased of late years, by the fact that it was a favorite angling haunt of the Hon. Daniel "Web- ster, and continues to be a favorite fishing and sketching place with his personal friend the Hon. John F. Crampton the British Minister. THE GREAT FALLS. The Great Falls of the Potomac, which are well worth visiting, are about ten miles further up the river, and may be reached by carriage or 110 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. Ill canal boat. When the Potomac is full the aspect of these falls is exceedingly grand, and the deep cuts or gorge through the solid rocks which abound in their vicinity are exceedingly picturesque and interesting. From this point it is that the water is to be conveyed to the metropolis at the expense of the General Government by means of the Washington Aqueduct, which, when finished will rival the great affair which is now the wonder and pride of New York city. The diversity and beauty of the scenery between the Great Falls and Georgetown is worthy of all praise. A more interesting region for the exploration of the Geologist or Painter can hardly anywhere be found. ARLINGTON' HOUSE. By this name is the mansion of George Wash- ington Park Cusiis designated. It occupies a commanding position on the Virginia side of the Potomac, nearly opposite Georgetown. The edi- fice is extensive, elegant and imposing, two hun- dred feet above the water, and commands a very fine view of the Capitol. At this place are care- fully preserved many rare and valuable pictures and other relics, descended from the ancestors of Mr. Custis, and some of them once in the posses- sion of Gen. Washington : for example, the Mount Yernon Plate, and the Bed and Bedstead of Wash- ington on which he expired. Among the pictures are portraits by Yandyke, Kneller, Stuart, and Trumbull, which are alone worth a pilgrimage to the place, where the accomplished proprietor is always happy to see his friends, who annually pay him their respects by thousands. When General La Fayette made his last visit to this country he was a frequent guest at Arlington House, and he pronounced the view which the front porch commands, one of the most beautiful he had ever seen ; and in a conversation on the surrounding woods that he had with Mrs. Custis, 112 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 113 on one occasion, be is reported to have made this remark — " KecoUect, my dear, how much easier it is to cut a tree down,. than to make one grow." On the Arlington estate, near the Potomac river and at the foot of a massive old oak is the Custis Spring, a spot resorted to by thousands during the summer months. Small houses have been erected by the liberal proprietor, for the benefit of visitors, and being a cold water man, he supplies all who call there on sultry days with an abundance of ice. And in this connection it may not be deemed out of place to mention the fact that for many years past, Mr. Custis has been in the habit of printing in the National Intelligencer, on the anniversary of General "Washington's birth day, a chapter of personal reminiscences respect- ing the illustrious chief. ALEXANDRIA. Although no longer within the District of Columbia, yet this City is deserving of a passing notice on account of its venerable age and its attractions as a commercial town. It is on the southern bank of the Potomac, about six miles below Washington, and is accessible both by steamboats and omnibuses. Like its rival in commerce, Georgetown, it can look back upon the vicissitudes of over one hundred years. That it was early a place of some note, is shown by the fact, that five Colonial Governors met here by appointment in 1775, to take measures with General Braddock respecting his expedition to the "West, and the said expedition started from this place. But the reminiscences which the peo- ple of Alexandria mostly cherish are those which associate their town with the domestic attachments and habits of General Washington, in whose let- ters may be found a number of kindly allusions to his friends residing in this town. His friendly interest was manifested on various occasions, and especially so by bequeathing to the inhabitants a legacy of £1,000 for a free Public School. The stranger in Alexandria is still pointed to the 114 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 115 Church of which he was a Vestryman, to the pew which he customarily occupied, and many striking memorials of his life are preserved with care. In the neighborhood of this City is the Theo- logical Seminary of the Episcopal Church of Vir- ginia, with a number of very able and distin- guished Professors. It is also supplied with the somewhat peculiar attraction for a southern City, of a Museum. It comprises many personal relics of General "Wash- ington, and also a large and valuable collection of specimens in Natural History. Its other at- tractions are interesting but not especially peculiar. MOUNT VEENON. Of all the spots associated with the National Metropolis, Mount Vernon is beyond all question the most interesting and attractive. It is situated on the southern branch of the Potomac, fifteen miles from Washington and eight from Alexan- dria. Heretofore the most usual mode of visit- ing it has been by Steamboat to Alexandria and the balance of the way by carriage, but within the past year a Steamboat line has been established directly to the spot itself. The entire plantation contains several hundred acres of land ; and the mansion is of wood, two stories high, ninety-six feet in length, and with a portico extending the entire length. The Central part of the house was built by Lawrence Washington, brother to the General, but the wings were added by the General himself, and the whole named by him after the famous Admiral Vernon ^ under whom Lawrence Washington had served. It occupies an elevated position from which may be seen a reach of some twenty or thirty miles of the noble Potomac, extending both to the eastward and to the westward. The present proprietor of the place is Mr. John Augustine Washington. The 116 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. 117 trees wliicli surround the house are quite nume- rous, and those which are known to have been phanted by Greneral Washington have been care- fully preserved, and are objects of great interest to the visitors. The Library room of the man- sion remains very much as when occupied by the Father of his Country. Beautiful walks are spread out in every direction, but terminate at a summer house which commands a charming prospect of the neighboring river. On a hill side some two hundred yards west of the summer house, and thirty yards from the mansion itself, is situated the vault where repose the remains of Washing- ton. The lid of his Sarcophagus is wrought with the arms of his Country, and his only epitaph his name ;-— and what an epitaph is that ? By his side in a corresponding tomb are the ashes of "Martha, consort of Washington." When La Fayette the noble and well tried friend of Wash- ington was in this country in 1825, he visited the tomb, descended alone into the vault and was melted to tears, and as he was about to depart, Mr. Custis who had accompanied him to the spot presented him with a ring containing some of the hair of his illustrious friend. La Fayette exam- ined the mansion with great interest, and among the relics of the place, discovered the Key of the 118 HAND-BOOK OF WASHINGTON. Bastile, which had been sent to "Washington many years before by himself, and which continues to be one of the attractions of the place. To one accustomed to the plantation system and habits of Virginia, this estate may have much in common with others ; but to persons unused to this economy, the whole is new and striking. Of things peculiar to the place, are a low rampart of brick, now partly overgrown, which Washington had built around the front of the house, and an under ground passage leading from the bottom of a dry well, and coming out by the river side at the foot of the mount. On the west side of the house are two gardens, a greenhouse, and — the usual accompaniments of a plantation — seed-houses, tool-houses, and cottages for the negroes — things possessing no particular interest, except because they were standing during Washington's life, and were objects of his frequent attention. Along the walls of the room hang engravings, which are mostly battle or hunting pieces. Among them will be noticed a print of Bunker Hill, but none of any battle in which Washington himself was engaged. The north room was built by Washington for a dining room, and for the meet-, ing of his friends and political visitors. The fur- niture of the room is just as when he left it, and HAND-BOOK OP WASHINGTON. 119 leads one back to the days wlien tliere were met within these walls the great men of that genera- tion who carried the States through the Eevolu- tion, laid the foundations of the government, and administered it in its purer days. The rooms of the house are spacious, and there is something of elegance in their arrangement ; yet the whole is marked by great simplicity. All the regard one could wish, seems to have been shown to the sa- credness of these public relics, and all things have been kept very nearly as Washington left them. Money made in the stocks can purchase the bedi- zenry of our city drawing-rooms ; but these ele- vating associations, which no gold can buy, no popular favor win, which can only be inherited, these are the heir-looms, the traditionary titles and pensions, inalienable, not conferred, -which a republic allows to the descendants of her great servants. BLADENSBUKG Is a village wbich is famous for its warlike as- sociations, lying about five miles eastward of the Capitol. It was formerly a place of some com- mercial importance, but its present attractions are the fields where a "famous victory" was won, or rather a bloody battle fought, and the celebrated Duelling Ground, where Decatur and many other smaller men have fallen to satisfy a sanguinary Code of Honor. 120 \ \ -7* -1*0^ OO^ a »■ *^. V ' « X. <- '■■-y: %/.! x^^ •^^. " •v%,%,- ^.""■^ « :^^-, -, '^ ■x^''% •^^ v^^ ^^ -V ,> -, n ^ .0 0, ,0- #,0 K*" ■■^^■ '^ „ (^ .3^ , *^ -^ a .^N cP\-^ A -t^ LIBRARY