i 0U077 750^ Conservation Resources Lig-Free® Type I Ph 8.5, Buffered F 74 ! .N55 M4 Copy 1 THE OLD SOUTH PILGRIMAGE TO NEWBURYPORT. By Edii'in D. Mead. I'rom the Editor's Table of the New I';n(;lani> Macjazink, July, 1900. 0\' the Fourth of July, 1854, the city of Newburyport gave a great reception to her sons and daughters who were resident abroad. It was a famous festival, with return- ing sons and • daughters, reminis- cences and rhetoric and toasts ga- lore ; and among the toasts was the following: "The City of Boston — as we look around this dav. we involun- tarily ask, what would she have been without Newburyport?" How many sons the historic old town had in Bos- ton half a century ago we do not know. The speaker who responded to tlie toast of "New York" on that Fourth of July said that there were three hundred in that city. However it may be with sons and daugh- ters, we think that Boston has never in a single day sent down to New- buryport so many people interested in her history as will go there on the Old South Pilgrimage, on Saturday, June 23. For Newburyport has been chosen by the Old South Historical Society as the goal of its historical pilgrimage this year. It is the fifth annual pilgrimage to which the young people of this enthu- siastic society invite their friends. We have carefully noticed these pil- grimages year by year in these pages, because they are of interest to a wider circle than that of the young people of Boston. Young students of his- tory in a hundred places, to whom our pages go, share in these Old South pilgrimages in imagination ; and we have all these in view in writ- ing. The first Old South pilgrimage, in the summer of i8q6, was to old Rutland, Massachusetts, the "cradle of Ohio"; the pilgrimage in 1807 was to the homes and haunts of Whit- tier by the Alerrimac ; that of i8q8, to the King Philip country. Mount Hope, on Narragansett Bay ; and last year's pilgrimage was to Plymouth. Many hundred pilgrims, young and old, — for fathers and mothers and teachers go, have joined in these annual excursions ; and many hun- dred will go from Boston to old New- buryport on the June Saturday, to which the Old South young people look forward as one of their red- letter days. "There are three towns," say.s Dr. Hohnes in "Elsie V'enner," "lying in a line with each other, as you go ■flown east,' each of them with a Port in its name, and each of them having a peculiar interest, which gives it individuality, in ad- dition to the Oriental character they have in common. I need not tell you that these towns are Newburyport. Portsmouth and Portland. The Oriental character they have in common exists in their large, square, palatial mansions, with sunny gar- dens round them. The two first have seen better days. . . . Each of them is of that intermediate size between a village and a city which any place has outgrown when the presence of a well-dressed stranger walking up and down the main street ceases to be a matter of public curiosity and private speculation, as frequently hap- pens, during the busier months of the year, in considerable commercial centres like Salem. They both have grand old recol- lections to fall back upon, — times when they looked forward to commercial great- ness, and when the portly gentlemen in cocked hats, who built their now decaying wharves and sent out their ships all over the world, dreamed that their fast growing port \vas to be the Tyre or the Carthage of the rich British colony. Great houses, like that once lived in by Lord Timothy Dex- ter, in Newburyport. remain as evidence of the fortunes amassed in these places of old. ... It is not with any thought of pity or depreciation that we speak of them as in a certain sense decayed towns; they did not 75470 1^' ,,^" 2 THE OLD SOUTH PILGRIMAGE TO NEW BURY PORT fulfil their early promise of expansion, but they remain incomparably the most interest- ing places of their size in any of the three northernmost New England states." Tlie beginnin^^ of that one of the three Ports with which our Old South pilgrims are concerned dates back almost as far as the beginning of ]»oston. In the shi]) Mary and John, which sailed from the Thames to Massachusetts in 1634. came Rev. Thomas Parker, Rev. James Noyes and a large company of their friends. Most of them went to Agawam. now Ipswich, where thev remained until the spring of 1635, when thev re- moved together to a place on the river called by the Indians Ouasca- cunquen and now called Parker River. On May 6, 1635, the House of Deputies passed the followmg order: "Ouascacun(|uen is allowed by the court to be a plantation . . . and the name of said plantation shall be changed and shall hereafter be called Newberry." It was at New- bury in England that Rev. Thomas Parker had preached before he came to Massachusetts ; and the settlers thus honored their first pastor in naming their town. There were no roads throuirh the forest. The settlers came by water from Ipswich, in open boats, through Plum Island Sound, and u]) the Parker River, landing on the north shore of the river in a Httle cove about one hundred rods below the ])resent bridge. Nicholas Noyes, the l)rother of Rev. Jsfmes Noyes, was the first person who leaped ashore. Mere on the Sabbath, under a majes- tic oak. Mr. Parker preached his first sermon ; and at the close of the ser- mon a church covenant was agreed upon. Mr. Parker was chosen j)astor; and James Noyes was chosen teacher. I'he two men were cousins. Cotton Mather, in the A/a"-- nalia, says of them: "Thev taught in one school (in England) : came over in one ship ; were pastor and teacher of one church; and Mr. Parker con- tinuing aKva\s in celibacx-, thev lived in one house till death separated them for a time." Their first residence in Newbury was at the Lower Green ; but on the removal of the meeting- house, in 1646, to the Upper (ireen, Mr. Noyes built a house on what is now known as Parker Street, and lived there until his death in 1656. Mr. Parker continued to live in the house with the widow and her chil- dren until his own death, in 1677, in the eighty-second year of his age. For many generations the Xoves family continued to reside here, the last occupant, Mary, Coffin Noyes, having died in 1895; and the house, the oldest in Newbury, still stands in good preservation. The two men who thus first ministered together to the Newbury church were both Oxford scholars and able theo- logians. The cathechism composed by Noyes for the use of the Newbury children is reprinted bv Cofifin in his history of Newbury. Parker early distinguished himself by writing two important Latin books, Dc Tradiic- tiouc Pcccatoris and Methodns Devinae Gratiae; and when old and blind, "the Homer of New England," he had a memorable controversv with Presi- dent Chauncy. The first meeting-house stoo:son, that Washington was lodged during his visit to Newburyport in 1789; and the same apartments were occupied by Lafayette during his visit in 1824. Nathaniel Tracy's portrait hangs in the old building; and there too hang photographic copies of the old por- trait of Patrick Tracy and of the por- traits by Copley of Jonathan Jack- son and his wife, now owned bv the Jackson familv in Boston. "Ould Newbury" embraced within its limits the present towns of New- bury, Newburyport and West New- bury. It was one of the largest towns in the colony. The area of the township was nearly 3®,ooo acres. The extreme length of the town from the mouth of the Merrimac to the farthermost western boundarv was nearly thirteen miles, and the width at the broadest paft was six miles. The first settlement, as we have noticed, was at the Lower Green, on Parker River ; but the maritime vil- lage which in a few years sprang up at the mouth of the Merrimac rapidly outstripped the farming settlement. It was not, however, until 1764, just before the Stamp Act, that Newburv- port received a separate organiza- tion. West Newburv became an in- dependent town in 1819. The annals of old Newbury during its first century are like the annals of a hundred old New England towns. They are chiefly church annals ; but Indian alarms, militia, mills, farms, fishing, taverns, taxation, shipbuild- ing, Quakers, Baptists and witches play their part. The church in New- buryport seems to have been the most democratic in the whole colony, its members, while most respectful to their ministers, most jealous of any assumption of ofificial authority. Lechford in Boston in 1642 wrote: "Of late some churches are of opinion that any may be admitted to church fellowship that are not extremely ig- norant and scandalous, but this they are not very forward to practise except at Neivbury." This was the way the democracy looked to out- siders. It is edifying to read of its struggles in detail in Cofifin's history. In 1637 the town sent its contin- gent to the war against the Pequots — the little army pausing on its march to discuss whether it was living under a covenant of grace or a covenant of works. This was only two years after the founding of the town. Year by year the records give us glimpses of all sorts into the Newbury life — its nobilities and severities and triviali- ties. In 1639 Anthony Somerby was granted four acres of upland "for his encouragement to keepe schoole for one yeare." In 1653 the town "voted to pay £24 yearly to maintain a free school to be held at the meeting- house, the master to teach all chil- dren sent to him so soon as they have their letters and begin to read." "Tristram Coffyn's wife Dionis was presented for selling beer," at Cof- fyn's ordinary in Newbury, "for three- pence a quart." Having proved, "upon the testimonv of Samuel Moores, that she put six bushels of malt into the hogshead, she was dis- charged." It was a question of giv- ing strong enough beer for the money ; the law fixed the price at iwo-pence a quart, four bushels of malt to the hogshead. This was in 1653, six years ,jfter Tristram CofTyn came to Newburyport from Haverhill, where and at Salis- bury he had lived since 1642, when, with his wife, mother, two sis- ters and five children, he came to Massachusetts from Devonshire. THE OLD SOUTH PILGRIMAGE TO XEWBLKYPORT. His Newburyport home was opposite Carr's Island, by the ferry. "He was a royaHst and was, so far as I can ascertain," writes liis descend- ant. Joshua Cofifin, the Newburyport antiquarian, to whose history we owe so much, "the only one of the early settlers of Newburv who came to America in consequence of the suc- cess of Oliver Cromwell." In 1659 he went to Nantucket, where he pur- chased for himself and his associates many thousand acres of land, becom- in£^ the head of the gfreat Nantucket Cofifin family. His son, Tristram, was perhaps the builder of the fa- mous old Coffin house at Newbury- port, which dates from the middle of the seventeenth centurv and which has belonged to the Cof^n family, generation after generation, ever since. Perhaps the house was built by this Tristram's wife's first husband, and thus Tristram got his wife and the good house together. The Old Newbury Historical Society is at this time considering the making of this venerable house its headquarters. The first Newbury centennial was celebrated in its front yard, in 1735 ; and in the old homestead, where he was born, in 1792. and where, in 1864. he died. Joshua Cof- fin prepared his historv of Newbur}-. One of the large elms on the place was planted by his father on the dav when he was born. In his early life he taught school in Haverhill and elsewhere, and one of his pupils was \\ hittier, whose well known lines. "To My Old Schoolmaster," are ad- dressed to him. The last words too of \\'hittier's letter written for the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniA'ersary of the settlement of Newbury, in 1885, were these: "Let me, in closing, pay something of the debt T have owed from boy- hood, by expressing a sentiment in which I trust everv son of the ancient town will unite: Joshua Cofifin, his- torian of Newbury, te'acher, scholar and antiquarian, and one of the earli- est advocates of slave emancii~)ation: May his memory be kept green, to use the words of Judge Sewall, 'so long as Plum Island keeps its post and a sturgeon leaps in Merrimac River.' " The old South pilgrims will look on no house more venerable than the old Cofifin house; and they will remember that Charles Carleton Cofifin, who gave so many Old South lectures and wrote so many books for young Americans, was a descend- ant of old Tristram, whose wife, Dionis, sold good beer for three- pence a quart. One and another were fined for entertaining Quakers. Aquila Chase and his wife are presented and ad- monished for picking peas on the Sabbath day — the justice who ad- monished them not divining that their descendant far on, Salmon P. Chase, would be chief justice of the United States. "Nicholas Noyes's wife. Hugh March's wife and William Chandler's wife were each presented for wearing a silk hood and scarfe," but were discharged on proof that their husbands were worth £200 each. Elizabeth Morse, the alleged "witch," was condemned to death by the Court of Assistants at Boston for her sinful behavior, "instigated by the Divil," but was saved by the firm- ness of Governor Bradstreet. Here IS an entry that gives a glimpse into the church life: "October 18. 1700: voted that a pew be built for the min- ister's wife by the pulpit stairs fin the new meeting-house], that Colonel Daniel Pierce shall have the first choice for a pew. and Major Thomas Noyes shall have the next choice, and that Colonel Daniel Pierce esquire and Tristram Cofifin esquire be im- powered to procure a bell of 400 pounds' weight." In 1714 Rev. John Tufts published a tune-book, which was sold for sixpence. It was tlie first publication of the kind in New England, containing twenty- eight tunes. This at a time when four or five tunes — York, Hackney. St. ]\Iary, Windsor and Martyrs — were the only tunes known in most places. THE OLD SOUTH FfLGRIMAGB TO NEW BURY PORT. was certainly an ambitious enter- prise. Before the Revolution Ncwbury- port had become a great shipbuilding- centre ; in 1772, ninety vessels were built here. But the Revolution and the drain of men for the Essex regi- ments checked the prosperity of the place. Newburyport became a sepa- rate town just in the exciting Stamp Act times ; and the Newburyport town meetings in the ten years before Lexington were almost as energetic as those in Boston. Newburyport made a bonfire of her British tea be- fore Boston pitched hers into the har- bor. The rector of St. Paul's Church, Rev. Edward Bass, afterwards first Episcopal bishop of Massachusetts, was occasionally hooted in the streets as a Tory. Rev. Jonathan Parsons, in the Old South Church, closed one of his sermons in the spring of 1775 with an appeal to such of his hearers as were ready to enlist to step out into the broad aisle. Ezra Lunt was the first to come forward ; and before the meeting broke up there had been raised within the church the first vol- unteer company organized for service in the Continental army, which after- wards under Captain Lunt rendered good service at Bunker Hill. It was at Newburyport that the expedition for the capture of Quebec, under Ben- edict Arnold, in 1775, embarked on board ten transports, and set sail from the Merrimac for the Kennebec. The troops were quartered in the town for several days, and the ofificers, Arnold, Aaron Burr, Morgan, Dearborn and others, entertained by leading citi- zens. On Sunday the troops, with flags and drums, marched to the Old South Church to hear their chaplain preach. Of Newburyport's sufferings during the Revolution some idea may be gained from the fact that twenty-two vessels, carrying a thou- sand men, which left the town during those years, were never afterwards heard from, some perishing in storms and some in combat. The city's trade and commerce had hardlv revived after the Revolution when the em- l)argo in 1807 and the great fire of 181 1 struck their crushing blows. We have spoken of Washington's visit to the town in 1789. He was es- corted by cavalry from Ipswich. When he reached the dividing line between Newbury and Newburyport, a halt was made and an ode of wel- come sung by a large chorus. In the town an address prepared by John Quincy Adams, then a student in the office of Theophilus Parsons, was de- livered, to which Washington re- plied ; and there were fireworks, a re- ception and great festivities. We have a description of the town at about this time, by President Dwight of Yale College, who visited it in T796. "The town." he wrote, "is buiU on a de- clivity of unrivalled beauty. The slope is easy and elegant; the soil rich; the streets, except one near the water, clean and sweet; and the verdure, wherever it is visible, ex- quisite. The streets are either parallel or right-angled to the river, the southern shore of which bends here towards the southeast. . . . There are few towns of equal l)eatUy in this country. The houses, taken collectively, make a better appear- ance than those of any other town in New England. Many of them are particularly handsome. Their appendages also are un- usually neat. Indeed, an air of wealth, taste and elegance is spread over this beau- tiful spot, with a cheerfulness and bril- liancy to which I know no rival." We get another interesting glimpse of the old town half a century farther on in Colonel Higginson's "Cheer- ful Yesterdays." Higginson, a young radical of twenty-four, became the minister of the First Religious Soci- ety at Newburyport in 1847, ^"^^ preached there for two years, quickly becoming active in the temperance agitation, the peace movement, the woman's rights movement, social re- form and antislavery. He writes in his reminiscences: "The parish, which at first welcomed me, counted among its strongest supporters a group of .retired sea-captains who had traded with Charleston and New Orleans, THE OLD SOUTH PILCKLMACli TO NTAl'IUKYPORT. and more tlian one of whom had found himseh' obHgcd, after saihng from a south- ern port, to put back in order to eject some runaway slave from his lower hold. All their prejudices ran in one direction, and their view of the case differed from that of Boston society only as a rope's end differs from a rapier. One of them, perhaps the (juietest, was the very Francis Todd who had caused the imprisonment of Garrison at Baltimore. It happened, besides, that the one political hero and favorite son of Newburyport, Caleb Gushing — for of Gar- rison himself they only felt ashamed — was at that moment fighting slavery's battles in the Mexican war. It now seems to me strange that, under all these circumstances, I held my place for two years and a half. Of course it cannot be claimed that I showed unvarying tact: indeed. I can now see that it was quite otherwise: but it was a case where tact counted for little; in fact. I think my sea-captains did not wholly dislike my plainness of speech, though they felt bound to discipline it: and moreover, the whole younger community was on my side. It did not help the matter that I let myself be nominated for Congress by the new 'Free Soil' party in 1848, and stumped the district, though in a hopeless minority. The nomination was Whittier's doing, partly to prevent that party from nominating him. . . . Having been, of course, defeated for Congress, as I had simply stood in a gap, I lived in Newbury- port for more than two years longer, after giving up my parish. This time was spent in writing for newspapers, teaching private classes in different studies, serving on the school committee and organizing public evening schools, then a great novelt}-. The place was, and is, a manufacturing town, and I had a large and intelligent class of factory girls, mostly American, who came to my house for reading and study once a week. In this w'ork I en- listed a set of young maidens of unusual abilit3\ several of whom were afterward well known to the world: Harriet Prescott. afterwards Mrs. Spofford: I>ouisa Stone, afterward Mrs. Hopkins (well known for her educational writings) ; Jane Andrews (author of "The Seven Little Sisters,' a book which has been translated into Chinese and Japanese): her sister Caroline, afterward Mrs. Rufus Leighton (author of "Life at Pup^et Sound'): and others not their inferiors, though their names were not to be found in print. I have never en- countered elsewhere so noteworthy a group of young women, and all that period of work is a delightful reminiscence. My youthful coadjutors had been trained in a remarkably good school, the Putnam Free School, kept by William H. Wells, a cele- brated teacher: and I had his hearty co- operation, and also that of Professor Alpheu> Crosby, 6S3- 28. Cromwell's First Speech, 1653. 29. The Discovery of America, from THE Life of Columbus by his Son, Fer- dinand Columbus. 30. Strabo's Introduction to Geog- raphy. 31. The Voyages to Vinland, from the Saga of Eric the Red. 32. Marco Polo's Account of Japan AND Java. 33. Columbus's Letter to Gabriel Sanchez, describing the First Voyage AND Discovery. 34. Amerigo Vespucci's Account ok his First Voyage. 35. Cortes's Account of the City of Mexico. 36. The Death of De Soto, from the "Narrative of a Gentleman of Elvas." 37. Early Notices of the Voyages of the Cabots. 38. Henry Lee's Funeral Oration on Washington. 39. De Vaca's Account of his Journey to New Mexico, 1535. 40. Manasseh Cutler's Description of Ohio, 1787. 41. Washington's Journal of his Tour to the Ohio, 1770. 42. Garfield's Address on the North- west Territory and the Western Re- serve. [Over] OLD SOUTH LEAFLETS. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 0014 077 750 ft 43. George Rogers Clark's Account OF THE Capture of Vincennes, 1779. 44. Jefferson's Life of Captain Meri- wether Lewis. 45. Fremont's Account of his Ascent of Fremont's Peak. 46. Father Marquette at Chicago, 1673- 47. Washington's Account of the Army at Cambridge, 1775. 48. Bradford's Memoir of Elder Brewster. 49. Bradford's First Dialogue. 50. WiNTHROP's " Conclusions for the Plantation in New England." 51. "New England's First Fruits," 1643. 52. John Eliot's "Indian Grammar Begun." 53. John Cotton's " God's Promise to his Plantation." 54. Letters of Roger Williams to Winthrop. 55. Thomas Hooker's "Way of the Churches of New England." 56. The Monroe Doctrine. 57. The English Bible. 58. Letters of Hooper to Bullinger. 59. Sir John Eliot's "Apologie for Socrates." 60. Ship-money Papers. 61. Pym's Speech against Strafford. 62. Cromwell's Second Speech. 63. A Free Commonwealth, by John Milton. 64. Sir Henry Vane's Defence, 1662. 65. Washington's Addresses to the Churches. 66. Winthrop's "Little Speech" on Liberty. 67. The Bostonian Ebenezer, by Cot- ton Mather. 68. The Destruction of the Tea, by Thomas Hutchinson. 69. Description of the New Nether- lands, BY Adrian Van der Donck. 70. Debate on the Suffrage in Con- gress. 71. Columbus's Memorial to Ferdi- nand AND Isabella. 72. The Dutch Declaration of Inde- pendence. 73. The Battle of Quebec. 74. Hamilton's Report on the Coin- age. 75. William Penn's Plan for the Peace of Europe. 76. Washington's Words on a Na- tional University. 77. Cotton Mather's Lives of Brad- ford and Winthrop. 78. The First Number of the Liberator. 79. Wendell Phillips's Eulogy of Garrison. 80. Theodore Parker's Address on the Dangers from Slavery. 81. Whittier's Account of the Anti- slavery Convention of 1833. 82. Mrs. Stowe's Story of " Uncle Tom's Cabin." 83. Sumner's Speech on the Crime against Kansas. 84. The Words of John Brown. 85. The First Lincoln and Douglas Debate. 86. Washington's Capture of Boston. 87. Morton's Manners and Customs OF the Indians, 1637. 88. Hubbard's Beginning and End OF King Philip's War, 1677. 89. Founding of St. Augustine, 1565. Menendez. 90. Amerigo Vespucci's Account of HIS Third Voyage. 91. Founding of Quebec, 1608. 92. First Voyage to the Roanoke, 1584. 93. Settlement of Londonderry, N.H. 94. Discovery of the Hudson River. 95. Pastorius's Description of Penn- sylvania, 1700. 96. AcRELius's Description of New Sweden. 97. Lafayette in the American Rev- olution. 98. Letters of Washington and La- fayette. 99. Washington's Letters on the Constitution. 100. Robert Browne's " Reformation without Tarrying for Any." 101. The Introduction to Grotius's " Rights of War and Peace." 102. Columbus's Account of Cuba. The leaflets are also furnished in bound volumes, each volume containing twenty ' five leaflets: vol. i., Nos. 1-25; vol. ii., 26-50; vol. iii., 51-75; vol. iv., 76-100. Pric^ per volume, $1.50. Title-pages with table of contents will be furnished to all pur- chasers of the leaflets who wish to bind them for themselves. Single Leaflets, 5 cents ; $4.00 per 100. DIRECTORS OF THE OLD SOUTH WORK, Old South Meeting-house, Boston, Mass. \_\eor-' »^^:ff7775^^ Conservation Resources Lig-Free® Type I \ nF CONGBESS iiiii * 7014 077 750 A