SECOND EDITION n iftS^uiii^S?nraa?Mna^S^D 1 1 i^^' 1 1 ' ' rv^ AlWATEUR THAIHEH- a Force System Without the Whip. By ED. F. HABERLEIN. i_rOj- -rti -rf^ ffo_cCS r—c$r "V53— r&—c& c#> "x^p— *^p— <^p — c^p- -\^y — q«p — c$j— t^p- -r$>- x,y— qys — c$; — c&~ ^ — cgr— c#j— t$t ~VP — c$3 TH E Amateur Trainer. Force System Without the Whip. "Vz ^z By ED. F. HABERLEIN. SECOND EDITION, 1895. WITH PORTRAITS OF TYPICAL DOGS. Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1895, By ED. F. HABERLEIN, -in ihe office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. « PRESS OF KETCHESON A REEVES, LEAVENWORTH, KANSAS, TZV RECOMMENDATION The attention of sportsmen is invited to the fact that this manual is a plain, concise, yet thorough guide in the art of training, handling and correcting of faults of the bird dog, subservient to the gun afield. The methods described and amply explained throughout these pages are based upon the author's experience, obtained during many years in training, handling and field-shooting, hence can be recom- mended to all amateurs who own a dog, whether trained or untrained, as perfectly reliable, and as giving all the infor- mation necessary to become a successful trainer and handler of the bird dog. Every reader will find at least something of interest and usefulness to him in the following pages, to amply repay him for the small outlay many times over. Respectfully submitted, THE AUTHOR. PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION, With considerable hesitancy — not fear of criticism — did I submit the first edition of the within work to the American sportsmen, well aware of the presence of many standard works upon the subject, whereby the field was well supplied, and there being, apparently, no demand for another guide-book on the subject of training the bird dog. Nevertheless, I felt perfectly confident that my methods, as derived from many years' experience, would not fail to find recognition, and be of aid to the amateur, to whom this manual is especially devoted. Several hundred commendatory letters (unsolicited), not only from amateurs, but also from trainers and sports- men who are acknowledged authorities, have been received by me, endorsing the methods of training in most flattering terms, by far overt nvering my most sanguine expectations. The sportsmen's press throughout the land, in unison, commented upon the little work in lavish terms, for which most sincere thanks are here expressed. A desire to be of aid to brother sportsmen in perfecting their dogs for utility afield, has been gratified in the fullest sense of the word. To avoid an impression as though self-praise were en- deavored, a few comments from acknowledged authorities upon the subject will hereto be appended. Fraternally yours, ED. HABERLEIN. TESTIMONIALS. * * * Your book, "The Amateur Trainer," has been received. I have read the book carefully from " start to finish." and will say with- out affectation, that I have read nothing on the subject of training in which I more heartily concur than your book. It reflects my views to a dot, and am glad that you have given us such a treatise. I have bred and shot over and trained my own dogs all my life, for fully fifty-five years, and think I ought to know something about it by this time, if I don't! Yes sir, I repeat, that I certainly like your book, and would be glad to see it in the hands of every gentleman sportsman. Fraternal] v vours, Whit e Post , V a. W M. C. K E X N ED Y . * * In my forty years' shooting afield, I had almost firmly come to believe that the only permanent cure lor well settled bad traits in a dog was to be accomplished by making a corpse of the dog, which I came very near doing with my present dog just before ordering " The Amateur Trainer," costing only one dollar, but worth it* weight in gohi to every owner of a bird dog. Most respectfully, Corsicana, Texas. M. DRANE. * * * I am in receipt of your book on dog training without the whip. It is based on common sense, and shows a thorough ac- quaintance with dog nature. There are many new and valuable hints. I am sure that all owners of dogs will be glad of such a manual, and hope it will be brought to their notice. Yours respectfully, OH AS. HALLOCK, Norfolk, Va. Founder of "Forest and Stream ." * * * Your book on training, although not as large as a Bible, I must say is the most sensible w r ork of its kind up to date I have all the standard works on the dog and his training, but yours is the most concise of them all. Truly yours, Dubuque, Iowa. c. c. LEMBKE. * * * I have your book, "The Amateur Trainer," and know that I will get good results from your system. I have read the insides out of almost all the dog books, but am sanguine this is the one! Most respectfully, C. F. WILBU K. Rolla, X. Dakota. INDEX PAGE. Introductory 9 The Selection 12 The Puppy 13 Name 16 To Heel 16 Proper Age 17 Force System 18 Yard Training 19 Train for a Purpose 20 Loud Talk 21 Obedience 21 Pointing 22 Retrieving 22 Advanced Education 22 PART I. Time to Begin 24 " Lie Down ! " 25 The Force Collar 26 " Sit Down ! " 28 " Come On ! " 30 " Fetch ! " " Let Go ! " 30 " Hold It ! " 32 '• Fetch Here ! " 32 " Fetch ! " " Hold It ! " " Let Go ! " 34 " Charge ! " " Up ! " 38 " Up Here ! " 41 " Charge ! " " Fetch ! " 41 The Pad 45 The Whistle 46 " Dead Bird ! " " Fetch : " 47 '• Up Here ! " (at the kennel ) 48 The Yard 49 The Real Bird 50 The Gun ! 52 Drop to shot and Wing. ■' Fetch ! " 54 8 INDEX. PART II Field Training 57 Quartering 59 " Hie On ! " 59 Finding and Pointing. " Steady! " 61 " Dead Bird ! " " Fetch ! " 62 Mouthing or Mutilating. " Take Care ! " 63 The Winged Bird 64 The Rabbit 65 Reverse the Collar 66 Recalling From Point 67 A Shooting Companion 68 Jealousy 69 Brace Work 70 Backing 70 The Hawk, etc 71 Wide Range 72 Retrieving From Water 73 The Jack Snipe 75 The Dog to Swim 75 Duck Shooting From a Blind 76 Duck Shooting From a Boat 77 MISCELLANEOUS. The Spoiled Dog 78 Breaking Shot 7'.» Whipshyness 81 Watershyness 82 Gunshyness 83 The Runaway Dog 90 Loaning the Dog 91 Train Your Own Dogs 98 Muddy Paws 96 Kverybody's Dog <.k; Proper Feeding 97 INTRODUCTORY. For ages the dog has been esteemed as an adjunct and servant to man — especially the sportsman. At this advanced age of civilization, the noble dog is more appreciated among the highest classes of man than ever before in the history of the world. Not more than a generation ago it was deemed degrading to go afield with dog and gun. To-day, men of the most exalted positions in life, from the President of the Nation down to the humblest citizen, cherish and highly appreciate the noble sport with dog and gun afield. Shooting afield without the aid of a trained dog is very poor sport indeed, but nevertheless much better than to be vexed with an uncultivated, obsti- nate dog, who is the source of constant annoyances and anger. If the sportsman is the possessor of a field dog, efficient, obedient and affectionate, he sallies forth confident of such an enjoyable outing as only a true sportsman can enjoy and fully appreciate, for it is not only the large number of birds brought to bag that inspires and gratifies, but rather it is the fine performance of his faithful dog that leads to the highest appreciation and enjoyment of the sport. 10 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. From lack of proper training the great majority of the dogs taken afield are practically unfit to be shot over. A dog of the most approved breeding, possessed of all necessary natural qualifications without the requisite training, must necessarily be a source of annoyance to such an extent as to rob the shooter of the enjoyment anticipated. Not every shooter has the gift to properly fit his dog for field work, especially without having made the subject a study — some not even having a correct conception of how a dog should perform afield, much less the ability and patience to inculcate the desirable accomplishments. The supposition that to become the possessor of a fine field dog, the only requisite necessary is to procure a puppy of some noted strain of bird dogs, and after he has reached the proper age, he can be taken afield, hunted and shot over with pleasure, is an illusion. The dog inherits natural qualities, such as nose, speed, hunting and finding of game, etc.; but not a particle of the accomplishments of his progenitors, acquired by judicious training is inherited, and therefore, all such accomplishments as are desired must be taught in one way or another to each and every individual dog. The person undertaking to train a dog should inform himself fully upon the subject, have good judgment, controllable temper, love for the dog, and THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 11 perseverance. Without these qualifications all hopes of success will end in sad disappointment. To possess a well trained field dog is the height of ambition of every sportsman, but to purchase such a dog or to have one trained by some profes- sional trainer is not always within reach of the sportsman ; therefore he must rely upon his own skill in perfecting his dog. As an illustration of the cost to have a dog trained by a professional trainer, the following editorial clipped from the American Field, date of April 29, 1893, will give a very good idea : " Almost daily we are asked to give the name of a good trainer. Some want their dogs broken for field trials, and others for field shooting only. In a majority of cases the latter will write us complain- ing that the charge of those whose names we had given was too high, being seventy-five or one hundred dollars; and wanting the name of a first- class man, but whose charges are moderate. We are sorry that it cannot be done, but it is a fact that a first-class article cannot be bought for a second class price; we are therefore not able to comply with the request. The man who charges one hundred dollars to train a dog, and does it properly, earns every cent, and we really cannot see how it can be done for less." This sounds rather discouraging for the im- pecunious sportsman. Well aware of the fact that a large majority of sportsmen cannot afford to ex- pend such a sum of money to procure a dog fit to be proud of, these pages were written. By study, ex- 12 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. perience in training and handling bird dogs during the past thirty years, the writer has acquired a thor- ough knowledge of the subject, and if the lover of a really good dog will not mind time and trouble, he can perfect a bird dog, with which he would not like to part for almost any price. Follow the instruc- tions laid down in these pages carefully, and success will be inevitable. THE SELECTION. The selection of a dog as to breed must be left entirely to the fancy of each individual sportsman. While the one prefers a Pointer, the other may insist upon a Setter. Both breeds have advantages and disadvantages over each other as a breed. These should be considered as to the special requirements for the locality and its peculiarities, to obtain satis- factory results of the work desired by the dog. Usually the " pointing " instinct is developed at less age in the Pointer than in the Setter. The Pointer is far more submissive, hence generally re- quires less time and patience to train ; can be taught to work admirably the first season; endures greater heat with less fatigue, owing to his light coat ; is also spared the torture of burrs, etc. But, on the other hand, he suffers greatly in cold weather, heavy thickets and briars. To subjugate a Pointer to the retrieving of water fowls (the season of which is naturally at a low temperature ), even if he be ever so THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 13 willing to perform this task, may well be termed barbaric. The Setter is much more dashing and enduring, exhibits more vim throughout his work, is stauncher at point and in backing; in ranging, far the superior ; as a retriever from land or water, greatly preferable ; retains his training better, and gen- erally is useful many more years than the Pointer, and withal a most amiable companion. An extensive pedigree is no guarantee of the ultimate usefulness of a dog in the field ; yet the off- spring of a pure strain of field dogs cannot be recom- mended too highly. Although very good dogs are occasionally produced from inferior stock, no chances should be taken in the matter of purity of breed. THE PUPPY. The puppy is usually procured at an age of from six to ten weeks, and the enthusiasm over the new acquisition mostly runs high. Such exultation is excusable; but do not imagine your precious puppy should receive at least his primary training lessons before he is fairly weaned — such a folly should never be conceived. If possible give your puppy a capacious yard to romp in; if a companion is accessible, all the better. Never allow him to loaf and loiter about. Give nutritious food, but avoid overfeeding. Never abuse or frighten him at any time; treat him kindly 14 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. to gain his confidence and affection; make it a point to administer his food in person, thereby as- sociating your presence with pleasure and benefit to himself. At the age of three or four months commence to take the puppy to a likely place of game birds, but take no gun; thickets are to be avoided. Allow him to follow out his own inclinations in roaming about, nosing out birds, giving chase to his heart's con- tent, etc., and never attempt to restrain him in this particular sport. In doing so you can observe much of the embryo, instinctive and functional qualifica- tions of the future pupil. The more enthusiasm and vim he may display, the more promising the puppy. If of somewhat timid disposition, so that the flutter of wings may startle him, then do your utmost to encourage and strengthen his ambition. From this time forward continue to visit the open field with the puppy, for the purpose of allowing him to search for and find game in his own way, until the time arrives when yard training shall commence. The more opportunities the puppy is given in finding birds, the quicker he will establish the habit of systematic hunting and pointing. It is best not to endeavor to assist the puppy in the finding and pointing beyond leading into a locality where oppor- tunities may be most plentiful. Finding and point- ing are instincts that cannot be enhanced by the trainer. If a puppy is continually called off, in- duced to go here and there, etc., he soon ceases to THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 15 hunt in a natural way, is constantly expecting some interference from his handler, and becomes a pot- terer of the worst kind. From the above it should not be inferred the dog is not to be restricted in any particular. Observe closely the manner of hunting, and the nature of the game he seeks mostty. If found to be of the desired species, very well; encourage in that line; but if he runs heedlessly about, merely giving chase a short distance to small birds or larks that he may get sight of, stops at all holes in the ground to dig for mice, giving full chase to rabbits, etc., etc., then it becomes the duty of the trainer to interfere, and to discourage such proceedings. If possible, this should be done without resorting to punishment, for if the puppy should be harshly treated afield he will conceive the idea that the punishment received was for hunting, and may henceforth refuse to hunt at all, come to heel, and cannot be induced to work again till all fear of punishment has subsided. The action of the puppy afield will clearly demonstrate his fitness for future practical work, and until this point is satisfactory settled in the trainer's mind, no attempt should be made at any further training. If the pointing instinct has not been developed at a reasonable age, do not condemn the puppy if he shows hunt, finds and chases birds, etc. In this case the training may proceed, fully confident that the deficiency will be overcome in time by nature. Eefrain from allowing the puppy to follow you 16 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. on a hunting trip either with or without another dog, for if a shot should be fired in close proximity to the young aspirant, he may be so frightened as to become gunshy, tuck in his tail and pull straight away for home or to any place of imaginary safety close by — a fault that requires much time and the nicest judgment to overcome. NAME. The name to which the dog is to respond in prac- tical life should be short and of good ring. Long names and those that resemble some of the orders of the dog's work should be avoided for obvious rea- sons. TO HEEL. On going to and coming from the field, the dog should not be allowed to run at will, but be held to take his place invariably at heel. This is easily ac- complished by attaching a cord about five feet long- to his plain collar, taking cord into left hand at about two feet from the collar; the balance of cord is taken into right hand and switched to right and left in the bight of dog's head upon starting oif, giv- ing order, " Heel ! " The dog may endeavor to press forward or tug back. The first is prevented by the short end of cord playing continually from side to side, and the latter will be impossible to a greater distance than about two feet, which is about the right place for the dog when at heel. This lesson THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 17 also comes into play frequently later on, and has the advantage at this time of preventing the puppy from running into yards on passing by, assures from straying before reaching destination, and from tak- ing a short cut for home to reach same sooner upon the return. But should the puppy be timid in the least this lesson must be deferred to a later date, when full courage has been attained. THE PROPER AGE. The proper age at which to commence training cannot be precisely given, for the reason that the dog's health, development, established courage, and confidence, must be duty considered. As a rule, eight or ten months old is early enough, and twelve to eighteen months is none too late. In fact, dogs fully matured can be subjected to more force and ac- quire knowledge with greater precision in ex- perienced hands than a puppy under one year of age. In his practice in the training of field dogs the writer has developed the best and most useful clogs in the shortest time among so-called "old dogs/' but a novice should not attempt such a feat; he will succeed far better with a young dog, and learn himself by degrees as he progresses in the dif- ferent stages of training. Training is an art which requires inclination, talent, a thorough study of the dog's nature, etc., and must be conducted in a sys- tematic manner, if to be rewarded by success. Dogs 18 THE AMATEUR TRAINER of all breeds differ considerably as to the individual intelligence, disposition, inclination and peculiari- ties, etc.; therefore judgment on part of the trainer is quite essential in applying any given methods. The methods as herein laid down are taught by the so-called FORCE SYSTEM, omitting suasion and the whip, applying the force collar to effect attention and obedience, words of praise and caresses to encourage and reward. The suasion system finds no favor among practical train- ers, although dogs are perfected to a high degree in that way, but a proficiency is accomplished only by the greatest patience, innumerable vexations and loss of time, and the dog so taught may at times work faulty or even refuse orders at any juncture if contrary to his inclinations, leaving the handler helpless in such cases, necessitating beginning anew with such a dog; but withal, that is the only system to be adopted by any would-be trainer of eccentric and erratic temper, for, if he should attempt train- ing by force, with either whip or collar, the results must necessarily be disastrous. The whip may be brought to use to good ad- vantage at times by an experienced trainer, but should never be resorted to by an amateur, for, if applied injudiciously and without proper judgment, most harmful effects may result. If the dog has been trained by force the accom- THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 19 plishments are permanent and will not require re- hearsing; although a dog may become dull and inat- tentive to orders through lack of work during long intervals, it will require but little reprimanding to correct his forgetful n ess. Train the dog to be sub- servient to the gun, break him of faults and unde- sirable habits. Training and shooting over a puppy until advanced to the proper stages are incompatible. Lay a broad foundation for the superstructure of the dog's education by giving systematic and thorough yard training by the methods as described herein- after. By doing so, perfect submission and obedi- ence to his master is implanted. The entire course is calculated to establish a practical usefulness of the dog subservient to the gun. YARD TRAINING. Yard training is the primary education of the dog, during which every detail is to be carefully ob- served, and the slightest faults and imperfections corrected as soon as discovered. If this is done properly, future complications and vexations will be avoided to a great extent. This part of the dog's training is the most difficult, requiring an abundance of patience, and cannot be too carefully done. Every folio vving lesson will be overcome with com- parative ease in astonishing quick succession if the foundation has been well laid, so that the dog will readily comprehend what is expected of him, and made to obey orders promptly. If the dog does 20 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. not seem to understand, gets confused, and per- forms badly, the fault will lay with the trainer, who is endeavoring to crowd too much into his head at a time, also probably giving contrary orders in quick succession, which would bewilder even a dog- far more advanced. While regularity in the giving of lessons is quite important, the trainer should use his judgment in regards to duration of the separate lessons. To begin with, one-half hour will be suf- ficient, which time may gradually be extended to one hour for each lesson; in this matter much de- pends upon the development and constitution of the dog. Give sufficient nutritious food twice a day, but avoid overfeeding, and let him have access to fresh water at all times. The time required to properly train, depends equally upon the intelli- gence, capabilities and endurance of both the dog and trainer. During the first season, training of the dog- should be made the principal object; let shooting be secondary. While training, no spectators are ad- missible for many reasons. In order to make any progress, the dog and trainer must give each other their full attention, which cannot be done in the presence of a second person. TRAIX FOR A PURPOSE. The sportsman desires a dog useful in field shooting, and the object of these pages is to enable him to produce such a dog through his own efforts THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 21 Training for field shooting differs materially from preparing for field trials. For the first purpose a good, steady, serviceable dog is desired, while in the latter case most stress is laid upon racing propen- sities and the exhibition of functional powers, but not on perfection of training for practical field shooting. Field trials of dogs are of great impor- tance to breeders ; by those trials the best and fittest breeds and strains are ascertained for the propaga- tion of field dogs, hence field trials have no signifi- cance as to the proper training of dogs for actual field work. LOUD TALK. The trainer should avoid loud and harsh talk during the exercises. It is unnecessary to give commands at top of voice at close quarters, and if continued, the dog will become accustomed to it, and in the future necessitate loud and louder bawl- ing to attract his attention at all. OBEDIENCE. Insist upon implicit obedience, and always avoid giving orders at such times when you cannot effectually enforce them. If the dog finds himself out of reach, he will soon learn to sulk and follow out his own inclinations. For practical field work the vocabulary should be confined strictly to the ap- plication of orders, omitting all superfluous words. 22 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. POINTING. The pointing instinct of the dog, if well bred," is one of the natural gifts or qualifications of the Pointer and Setter, but is developed at quite differ- ent ages in puppies, some taking to it at the age of two or three months, while others (even of the same litter) will not stand or point game satisfactorily before maturity. If such deficiency in the natural development is found, it will be best to trust to time, and not endeavor to effect this by training, which, however, can be done, but is never performed in a satisfactory manner to the sportsman, and w T ould also have a bad effect on the dog's future sagacity. RETRIEVING. Eetrieving is one of the most useful accomplish- ments of the practical field dog, and does in no wise injure or affect his nose and finding abilities, as is often claimed. A dog that is not taught to retrieve cannot be considered fully trained, and if a sports- man has but the one dog, this accomplishment is obviously indispensable. ADVANCED EDUCATION. The dog is capable of receiving a high degree of education, which may be carried on in his sphere ad infinitum. The average sportsman wants a dog principally to accompany him in the field for the purpose of THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 23 finding, pointing and retrieving game, and if the dog performs these feats well, his mission will be filled; therefore, the following pages will not con- tain anything pertaining to the art of teaching tricks of any kind in a direct way, such as would ultimately culminate in a circus dog. If it be the desire to teach some funny tricks, it may easily be done after going through this course, for then the dog has learned to promptly obey orders, is entirely submissive, and if, on the part of the trainer, a little common sense and judgment is applied, most aston- ishing tricks may be taught in a very short time. The dog under consideration is to be perfected for practical usefulness in the field, and when this is done the writer's endeavors will have been accom- plished. Jbr tiM 24 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. PART I. TIME TO BEGIN. When the time has arrived deemed proper to begin the systematic training of the puppy selected for this purpose, provide, if not already done, a suitable kennel; attach to this near the ground a sufficiently strong but not unnecessarily heavy chain, five or six feet long. Secure a plain leather collar around the neck of the puppy, sufficiently tight so he cannot by any means slip the same over his head; at the same time be careful not to buckle the collar any tighter than necessary; then tie up the dog and let him alone for a short time. For obvious reasons do not attempt to secure the dog with a cord, strap, or the like, to his kennel. Except when in the hands of the trainer, the dog must be kept chained to his kennel during the entire course of training, but from time to time, at the leisure of the trainer, a good run for exercise should be allowed him. As soon as the dog finds himself deprived of his wonted liberty, he naturally will attempt to free himself of his fetters, and a spell of tugging and J* Up 1 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 25 yelping will follow, lasting for several days, if not effectually checked sooner. Let him have his own way about it for awhile; perhaps before long he may come to the conclusion that his behavior is alike foolish and useless, and he may cease his acrobatic performances. If he does not submit to the inevitable at once, don't be alarmed — it won't hurt the chain and collar, nor the dog! Should he not quiet in due time, then proceed in the following manner to stop the racket. "LIE DOWN!" Get a stout but limber switch, walk up close to the dog and gently tap him with it, increasing the switching until he seeks to escape the punishment by retreating into the kennel; then give the order: "Lie down!" While he remains within keep the switch playing against the side of the kennel, often repeating the command. Turn to side and out of view of dog, and decrease raps on kennel, finally ceasing, but remain in position perfectly quiet and motionless. In a few minutes the puppy will expect to be alone, bound out and repeat his former yelp- ing; instantly the switch is again brought to play against the kennel, whereupon he will quickly re- treat within. Eepeat a few times, then quickly steal away some little distance and keep concealed. The puppy may remain within, but howl or yelp. In this case throw a pebble or other small object against the kennel; this will remind him of your 26 THE AMATEUR TRAINEE. presence, and he will hush up. A number of repetitions will be necessary. If at any time during the night the barking shall occur, go but and lay on the switch a little heavier. If this is properly done at the start, the effect will be permanent, so that at the word given he will instantly stop and lie down. If this part can be done by any other person usually about the house it will be all the better for this reason ; if at any time the music should occur while you are absent, there will be none to stop it until your reappearance, avoiding also the creating of any fear from you. Do not attempt any further proceedings for the next three or four days. Give the dog time to get accustomed to the chain, and to forget his playfulness. THE FORCE COLLAR. The force collar now comes into use. A number of so-called spike collars are now uj:>on the market, most of which are unfit for the purpose designed. A very good collar in every respect is manufactured by Ed. F. Haberlein, of McPherson, Kan., which is sent postpaid upon receipt of $1.00. The first period of training should be done in a vacant room or barn, of which the floor must be swept clean of all litter. The attire of the trainer should have nothing flopping or dangling about it; a snug fitting jacket or short coat is best. Wear a pair of soft leather gloves for the pro- tection of the hands. Go up to the dog, unhook THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 27 the chain, and lead him quietly into the room, closing the door. Gently slip the force collar over his head (buckle to right), leaving the attached cord of about eight feet in length drop to floor; then unbuckle his plain collar and place same and chain out of the way. The dog, expecting to be freed, will instantly wheel about in the endeavor to creep off into a corner to lie down. Here the first intro- duction to the collar is made. Upon reaching the end of cord, which you now have taken firmly in hand, the collar draws tight, choking and pinching his neck, and a fierce battle against the annoyance will follow. Stand at the spot, allowing him to jerk and tear about till quieted, which will last but a few minutes, he soon finding the pain to subside when slacking up. Now take up the cord in short links into the right hand till you stand even at his right side, holding cord loose in left hand to allow a slide of same if necessary. Give the order, "Come on!" and proceed forward slowly, allowing him about eighteen inches of cord. If he tugs back do not yield, but keep on a slow walk about two feet from the wall, turning to right at the corners. Do not speak till after you have made one round of the room; stop at place of beginning; allow the dog a few moment's rest, then again give command, "Come on!" and proceed as before. After thirty rounds he will have learned that to keep the proper distance, not running afore or tugging back, he encounters no pain, hence will quietly submit. 28 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. Now stroke and pat him, also speak kindly, such as "Good boy," etc.; reach for his plain collar, buckle it on, slowly strip pff the force collar (buckle side up), lay it aside, take up the chain' and lead him out co the kennel; attach and leave him without further proceedings. During the hot season it is best to select either the cool hours of morning or evening for the lessons to be given, and the same hour should be adhered to each day, if possible. As on the day previous, bring in the dog, put on the force collar, and make a few rounds in the man- ner as before, then reverse by placing the dog towards the center of the room and yourself towards the wall, and march to the left. The dog will be apt to run ahead and obstruct your way; prevent this by taking up cord short, so as to bring his head about parallel with your body, and when turning to left, raise the left foot high, near up to his head, slightly touching him on side, whereupon he will turn away to the desired direction. Avoid stepping upon his feet. After fifteen rounds to the left alternate the walk from left to right, and continue same until he well understands and closely watches your movements. Lead to kennel in former manner. "SIT DOWN!" Bring in your dog; make a few rounds to right and left, stopping in center of room; take up the cord short into right hand, releasing hold with left; THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 29 with it reach to his loins; lay the four fingers on left, the thumb to right, across the small of back; press slightly together and downward, at the same time draw backward with right hand on cord and give command, "Sit down!" Prevent him from lying down entirely by holding him up with collar, but get him into a sitting posture on his haunches. Keep him in this sitting position a few moments, repeating meanwhile the order. Eelease hand on back, say " Good boy," or anything pleasing to him; make a few steps to and fro, and again let him "sit down." Alternate this with the foregoing lesson during entire time allotted. The dog now sits without aid. Take firm hold of cord, close up to buckle (now with left hand), repeating the command. Do not move from the spot, but raise one foot, as if intending to advance; he will instantly endeavor to rise and follow; prevent this with hold on collar; move foot further away; place it before and then around him, always facing the dog; slowly move backward and up again; lengthen hold on cord; step backward gradually to about two feet, and again come up. Do all this while he sits motionless. Take a few steps with dog in former manner, to rest yourself. Bring to "sit down," and repeat the backward movements to a distance of three feet; then by degrees, first to one side, then to the other, and finally behind and around him, increasing the dis- tance from the dog by every turn, until he sits 30 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. complacently watching your movements around him all over the room. Now exercise these three lessons in connection until perfectly firm. One hour will be required to accomplish this. "COME ON!" The dog now understands that upon the order "Sit down!" he is to take a sitting position im- mediately, and remain so until ordered off. After he sits quietly for a time and allows you to circle all around him, step up close to his right side, take line at short length in left hand, give command, "Come on ! " and proceed a short distance (about ten steps), order " Sit down ! " encircle while he sits, and again step up, commanding, "Come on ! " Twenty repeti- tions will suffice. "FETCH!" "LET GO!" Procure a few clean corn cobs, of which one will come into use at present, while the balance may be laid away for future use. It will be well to change to a new cob each day, for the reason that the one in use soon becomes soiled and offensive to the puppy. The dog is brought in, and after a few repetitions of the former lessons, is brought to " Sit down ! " about in the center of room. Drop the line out of both hands; place right hand under his jaw and raise his head to a horizontal position and let it remain so; then bring the left hand in position by laying thumb on the right, the four fingers on THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 31 left of upper jaw, so that when the hand is drawn together, the dog's upper lip is pressed against his fangs, causing some pain — sufficient to force him to open his mouth instantly. In the meantime, the right hand has reached into the jacket pocket and taken the cob, which is now quickly placed into his open mouth, givingcommand," Fetch ! " releasingthe grip of left, but supporting under jaw with the right hand — in fact, letting him rest on it, and repeating the command often. Prevent the dog from jerking his head aside and throwing out the cob by having left hand close to him, and slightly hold his mouth shut down upon the cob, which he will easily sub- mit to, the cob being soft and not offensive to him. After he has held the cob for a few moments, take it from him carefully by taking hold of same with right hand on left side; lay fingers of left hand under point of lower jaw; place the thumb against under lip, directly in front, and shove lip up against and over the teeth ; at the same time give order, "Let go!" The slight pain caused by pressing the thumb against the lip over the lower small, sharp teeth, will have the effect to instantly open his mouth. Withdraw the cob, but do not pull or jerk it out, under any circumstances; merely hold firmly and let the dog draw away from it. Eemain at the place and go through this same lesson ten times, then order, "Come on!" and go through a few former maneuvers, then repeat lesson again. Put in a full hour to instruct this lesson. 32 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. "HOLD IT!" The dog sits, the cob is placed into his mouth as before, (well balanced, so that the ends do not pro- trude more on one side than the other), withdraw left hand and give order, "Hold it!" repeatedly; then gradually slide right hand, which still supports lower jaw, back and forward and up on side, diminishing support by degrees till hand is finally lowered and clog holds without aid. Care must be taken that the dog does not jerk aside at this juncture and throw out the cob; therefore stoop low down and have both hands in readiness to quickly grab his mouth and hold cob in should this occur, but do not press hard. If the cob is held steady a few moments without aid, he will understand what is wanted; then gently pat him on the head and speak kind words. Now remove cob in former manner, with " Let go ! "; order to " Come on ! " and after a few rounds, during which dog is not to carry anything, repeat. This lesson is not difficult, only requiring due time and care. Fill in your allotted time with the repetition of former lessons in connection with the new one, but do not attempt to make the dog carry the cob; the holding as yet is only to be done in a sitting position. "FETCH HERE!" The clog arts holding cob without aid of either hand. Place yourself in stooping position before the dog; take short grip of cord with left hand and THE AMATEUR TRAINEU. 33 place right hand under jaw as support, in former manner; order " Fetch here ! " draw up cord, forcing- dog to rise, and follow on your backward move- ments. Most likely he will endeavor to jerk aside and throw out the cob. Prevent this, and gently force him forward, by degrees, a few feet only; then order, "Sit down!" "Hold it!" Pat and show ap- probation. Take cob from him by "Let go ! " After a few r other repetitions, return to the "Fetch here! " When noticed that he does not rely on the support of right hand, even if he only drags along in an'un- willing manner, then gradually lower right hand till it ceases to touch his jaw, but the hand must be close to his mouth at all times to prevent him from dropping the cob. No matter how poorly this lesson may go and what demonstrations the dog- may make, force him along with you in your back- ward movements. Be careful also to prevent the cord from coming in contact with cob, whereb} 7 it might be pushed to one side or entirely out of his mouth. When you notice that he has understood the meaning of the order, then let him "sit down," holding cob, and go through maneuvers as in the lesson of "Sit down," by slowly moving first to one side, then to the other, and around him. When the carrying in a straightw T ay direction goes fairly well, then make the usual turns, to the right at first, as in this way the left leg does not come in contact with cob, by which it might be pushed out. After this, make turn to right and left alternately, 34 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. observing dog's movements closely, and preventing dropping of cob. Put in the full time teaching this lesson. "FETCH!" "HOLD IT!" "LET GO!" Up to this time the dog has only been required to hold, carry and let go the cob, when placed in his mouth ; it is now time he should take hold himself. Let him sit down, drop cord out of both hands, lay the cob on your outstretched flat hand, evenly balanced, shove hand slowly forward, pass the fingers under jaw till cob touches his mouth; now pass left hand over upper jaw in former manner, press on both sides as heretofore, give order, " Fetch ! " and as the mouth is opened roll the cob into it, at the same time order, "Hold it! " Bemove the hand if he holds, pat, etc. Then order "Let go! " Bemain at place and repeat fifteen times. Best yourself and dog by a few circles and repetitions of former lessons, then repeat the same. Be content if the dog only shows slight inclination to grasp the cob, and continue to assist in his endeavor to do so, and as soon as you notice he has understood the mean- ing, let him hold; order "Fetch here!" stepping off quite slowly after each time of grasping. In forcing the dog's mouth open with left hand over upper jaw, it will not be necessary to press too hard to effect this, and the pressure must be diminished more and more till a mere touch in con- nection with order to "Fetch ! " will be sufficient to THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 35 open his mouth. If continually pressed quite hard it may happen that the dog, in anticipation of the coming pain, will try to avoid this by snapping at the hand; no danger, however, is to be apprehended from this, for if the manipulation is carried on with dexterity, the trainer has complete control of the dog at the time; he is not able to either turn the head or move the body from the spot. If, however, the dog should be of vicious disposition or the trainer timid, then proceed as follows: Hold cob on flat, outstretched hand as before, grasp cord short with left, turn collar, so when drawn up tight the cord comes directly in center of back of neck; give order "Fetch!" simultaneously drawing up cord tight. The ensuing pain will cause the dog to open his mouth instantly to give a yell ; at this moment slide or roll the cob into it; order "Hold it!" and after a few moments order " Fetch here! " Take a round in room, then repeat till he will fairly grab at cob when order is given. In the following lesson the dog will be required to reach out for the object to be taken. Proceed in former way, but hold cob about one inch in front of dog's mouth, laying cob flat on right hand and extending the fingers forward to support as hereto- fore. After the dog takes object, order "Fetch here!" at once, and after bringing him to a "sit down," flatter him by praise and caresses; follow up by former .exercises, and again return to this lesson. 36 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. If the foregoing has been well executed, increase the distance to about three inches in manner as before. This will show new complications, for the reason in order to reach the object the dog must now raise his body and lean forward. Do not pass this lesson too hasty, because this is the connecting link with the following more difficult exercises. Bring the dog to a "sit clown ; " the right hand on which the cob rests is now extended about one foot from the dog on a horizontal line with head. Upon order "Fetch!" the dog may endeavor to evade by lying down or turning to one side. In this case use left hand over jaw in former manner, and if fear is entertained of a probable bite, grasp cord at ab.out one foot length from collar, turning latter so as to bring noose directly below, giving quite a sharp jerk just at command " Fetch ! " ; draw and jerk forward till he reaches out and takes hold as before; then start off at once with order "Fetch here!" It will be understood that the fingers of right hand can no longer act as support, which will not be necessary now if the foregoing lessons have been carefully gone through with, so the dog will have fully understood the meaning of each command. The submissive dog usually takes to tnis extension with comparatively little difficulty, while the head- strong dog may require considerable punishment with the collar before submitting in a business-like THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 37 manner. Alternate this with former lessons till quite acceptably performed. So far the dog has not been required to either raise or lower the head in grasping object. The right hand now holds the cob at the former distance of one foot from the dog, but about four inches higher than the level of his mouth. This makes it difficult for him, because he must stretch out and up to take hold. If the left hand grip on jaw is used, reverse from top to lower jaw by pressing under lip against teeth in the direction of the right hand, but if the cord is resorted to, then use as in last lesson, but turn noose down, as then by drawing forward the dog's head is elevated and brought on a level with cob. This lesson will not be difficult, merely requiring due time and alternating with foregoing exercises. The next lesson will be to have the dog grasp at one foot distance and four inches lower, which will not be difficult, but it may happen that he will drop the object after taking it, because the collar is now adjusted in a reverse manner of the former lesson, so the noose will be on back of neck, causing the dog to lower the head as he is drawn forward ; therefore give support under the jaw with right hand the moment he takes hold, and raise the head to a level and at once order, "Fetch here! " Then proceed to make a tour. If, however, after a few repetitions, the dropping of object has not ceased, give reprimand 38 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. by word and jerks with cord till overcome, and do not fail to connect this with former exercises. If the previous lessons are now well executed, then proceed by increasing the distance in a hori- zontal line gradually to about four feet; then, at this distance, four to eight inches higher; then four to eight inches lower ; but the object is not yet to be dropped to the floor to be picked up by the dog. It will be found that the dog may come up to the object at this distance, but then refuse to take hold of it ; in this case reprimand and repeat until nicely performed. " CHARGE ! M "UP!" At the command, " Charge ! " the dog is required to assume an outstretched attitude upon the ground by keejDing the hind quarters in position as in " sit down," extend his fore legs forward and about eight inches apart, and place head directly between them flat on the ground, which is taught in the following manner : The dog is brought to " sit down "; the trainer takes position close to right of dog, lays left hand upon his shoulders, while the right hand reaches down and grasps both legs of dog at first joint, quickly drawing them out forward, pressing down on shoulders with left, and give order, " Charge ! " The dog involuntarily is brought down to the ground. Adjust fore legs to line straight with body, and gently press his head down, not, however, hard enough to cause him any incon- THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 39 venience. Insist upon remaining quietly in this position by holding down a few moments; pat and stroke, repeating "Charge!" often; then release the hold, raise up yourself and order "Up! " The order, "Up ! " is usually responded to quickly, be- cause the dog does not fancy this outstretched posi- tion. Praise and repeat the entire proceeding a number of times; alternate with a few rounds with- out making him carry object, only to rest both yourself and dog; then again have him "charge." As this lesson is quite tiresome, owing to the crouched position, it maybe well to shorten same or to fill in time by going through former exercises. The next lesson will be to teach the dog to re- main at "Charge" without holding him down. Bring to "charge;" lay left hand upon dog's head lightly while in stooping position, and raise one foot as to start off. The dog will instantly try to rise and follow, having learned to constantly be close up to the trainer. Hold him down after repeating the command, "Charge! " ; gradually move off a little further, but not more than the outstretched left hand will permit, turn to left side and return, then come up to right side and order " Up ! " By degrees the dog will learn to remain quietly in lying posi- tion when hand is entirely removed from head, then rise to standing position, face dog and constantly keep your eye on his. Baise forefinger of right hand to warn him; retreat gradually to a distance of some eight or ten feet, but always come up from 40 THE AMATEUR TRAINER front again; then keep right hand close to dog's head, and pass around to right of him, but not en- tirely around him yet; return and turn to his left. If he remains perfectly motionless while he lies at "charge," praise him much; but if the slightest motion is made by turning head to side, etc., press it down, and say "Charge!" in a stronger, more commanding tone. The stooping position which must be maintained during this lesson, is quite tire- some to the trainer, and must therefore be often relieved with other exercises. Order "Up!" to move about. If the dog should now refuse to obey the order "Up! " promptly, then give light jerk on cord, which will bring him quickly to his feet. Practice this lesson till well understood and promptly executed. Bring the dog to "charge;" make a few back- ward movements in front of him to a distance of about ten feet. From time to time say "Charge!" and also raise the right hand to a level with head, flat, outstretched palm facing the dog, and return to left side. Pat the dog to show your approbation, but do not allow him to rise. From this on con- stantl} 7 associate the raising of right hand with the order, "Charge! " which sign the dog soon learns to obey without further command. By degrees pass first to one, then to the other side, and finally en- tirely around the dog. Meanwhile repeat the order often, and prevent him from raising his head to watch your movements when out of his sight, and THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 41 always come up to his right side before ordering "Up! " By so doing. the dog soon learns to under- stand that he must remain at "charge" till you come to usual place at his side. Increase the dis- tance from dog in front and behind to about twenty feet, and be particular that he maintains the cor- rect position by laying head evenly between fore- legs flat down. It does not matter yet about his hind parts, whether turned to side or not; this fault cor- rects itself in time. "UP HERE!" When perfect steadiness at "charge" is attained, proceed to call "up" at a distance of about six feet in front of dog by order, "Up here ! " The cord is in left hand, and if the dog does not respond quickly, draw it in by jerks till close up in front; then order "Sit down!" By degrees increase distance to ten feet in front, then also to either side and finally to direct rear. In the coming into rear be particular that he does not merely raise up and come in on a circle; insist upon a direct wheel-about by drawing up cord quickly, hauling in straight to you. "CHARGE!" "FETCH!" The dog is at "charge." Hold cob flat on right hand, as heretofore ; stoop and slowly shove extended fingers under his jaw; give order, "Fetch!" Most likely he will open his mouth and take the cob, whereupon order, "Up!" "Fetch here!" and in- 42 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. stantly move off, as before. But if he merely en- deavors to come "up," without making an attempt to grasp the cob, then compel him to take hold in former manner by the grip, with left hand over jaw, or by using cord, as before, in lesson in merely "fetch." This lesson will not be difficult, if only slowly proceeded with ; and when the dog takes cob promptly from flat hand, gradually withdraw to about two inches from dog's mouth, but do not expect him to pick it up from floor yet — merely extend the distance by degrees to about six inches, which necessitates the dog to draw up to grasp. With every grasp, order "Up here! " and start off; this has the effect to make him anxious to follow, and finding that he cannot do so without first taking object, does it quickly. Now take a new cob; break off small end of same, leaving a length of about six inches. Into four opposite sides of cob drive eight eight-penny nails one inch from each end, in such a manner as to form a perfect cross at each end, the nails on either side to line perfectly; in this manner a saw- buck-like contrivance is produced which, when laid down, will stand on heads of nails as feet or sup- ports, and the cob is held up about one inch from the floor. In driving the nails, see that they are equally imbedded and the points do not protrude on the other side, which leaves the head part of the nails projecting about one aud-a-half inches. Bring the dog to "charge;" instead of laying THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 43 cob on flat hand, as before, now lay the "buck" on the floor, but place the hand in a deceiving manner in front of it, as if holding same, and order "Fetch!" The dog comes up to take and may push against the "buck" so as to roll it forward; prevent this by holding in place until he has taken hold, and at once order "Up! " as before. By degrees withdraw the right hand more and more, to a distance of one foot. From this on the stooping position of the trainer can be avoided; keep directing with the hand towards the object, associating the order with the motion of the hand, which, in time, will be the only command necessary. The nails in the ends will prevent the dog from taking any other than a direct center hold, which is of importance in future lessons, and ultimately in practical field work. Do not hurry over this lesson before it is well executed, and insist upon the dog stretching out to object in fetching, and never allow him to first rise up; if that is permitted, serious complications will arise, therefore strictly adhere to the method as mentioned above. It will now happen when the " buck" is dropped to the floor, and the dog is ordered to "charge," he will, if close to object, merely bend down, grasp it and raise up to proceed. In this case show the dog your full satisfaction, for now he accomplishes what we endeavored to arrive at with the lesson of "charge" at this stage. At first be content if he willingly advances a few steps to pick up, then 44 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. gradually increase the distance to about ten feet, and always accompany him to the object, waving the right hand in that direction. Ultimately the signal by hand alone will be all the order necessary, while the trainer remains at the spot from whence the object was thrown, but always insist upon the dog coming in on a direct line to you, sitting down and holding till ordered "Let go!" Never fail to flatter and praise your pupil whenever he performs any part of his lesson to your full satisfaction, with kindly spoken words and a little caressing. On the other hand be cautious with words and gestures of disapprobation. Never fail to correct any fault of his, especially disobedience to orders and slovenly execution, on the moment, and have him repeat every exercise in their regular order until he com- prehends and executes the same perfectly, but not beyond the limits of attention and physical strength. Yary the exercises as often as you deem it prudent by repeating former orders. Adhere strictly to the rule, never to take up a new lesson until he is per- fect in all the foregoing exercises. Do not exjDect too much proficiency, alertness or style in execution at this stage of the dog's education, so long as he fully understands every order given and obeys the same fairly well. As we progress with this method his educational faculties will strengthen, and practice will make him master of his task, and the trainer will then consider himself richly repaid for the time and patience devoted to his dog. THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 45 The dog now takes the "buck" constructed of cob and nails quite willingly, and to prevent any play or mouthing the same while working with it, it becomes necessary to change its construction by merely using a stick of hard wood, (a piece of hard wood broom handle is quite suitable) instead of the cob, the nails being driven in just the same as in the former. He will not imbed his teeth in this, and unconsciously become soft mouthed, taking hold hardly sufficient to firmly hold and carry the object- THE PAD. Now we add a new contrivance, which is quite readily constructed in the following manner : Pro- cure a bunch of clean rags, roll up smoothly to about five inches long by two inches in diameter; wrap with common twine to hold in place, and cover the entire pad with strong common cloth, such as ducking; sew up tight at all ends, endeavor to form into egg shape; make the pad thinner at the ends and fuller in the center, somewhat to resemble the shape of a quail. Make the pad quite smooth, not allowing any parts of rags, etc., to dangle about it, then it is ready for use. The dog is brought to "sit down." Stand directly in front of him, produce the pad and offer the same with usual command, "Fetch!" If he takes it, very well; then by degrees go through former tactics, including the different distances, but do not drop the pad to the floor; however, if he 46 THE AMATEUR TRAINER hesitates to take hold, use the left hand grip to open his mouth, or the cord, if you have taken this course heretofore; then have it carried and delivered to you in hand. The dog will not be likely to drop it, because he has fully learned that when once taken hold he must, under no circumstances, relieve himself of the object without the order, "Let go! " and place it into your right hand while in the sitting position. The pad is first thrown out a short distance for him to fetch, and eventually to ten or fifteen feet, always waving the right hand in the direction, as described before. Should the dog refuse to pick up the pad promptly, then apply the former methods, by first holding flat on hand, while the back of hand rests on the floor, withdrawing it by degrees. As a rule, the change to the pad will be effected without difficulty. From this on alter- nate in the use of the "buck" and the "pad" during the exercises. THE WHISTLE. Up to this stage all orders were vocal. In practical field work the whistle is indispensable. For the present a plain note produced by the mouth is quite sufficient, and the dog learns its meaning quickly. The dog is at "charge;" advance six or eight steps, face him, order "Up here!" and quickly sound the whistling note. After ten repetitions give the whistle only, and most likely he will THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 47 respond. If, however, he should hesitate, bring the cord into use instantly in connection with whistle, after giving the order. This is one of the easiest lessons to teach, and should now be alter- nated with the vocal command, but never used conjointly. ''DEAD BIRD!" "FETCH!" The dog is at "charge." The right hand holds the pad close up to the dog. Dangle it in different directions before him, to make him quite anxious to take hold, after which pretend to throw the same to a distance from side of lying dog; at the same time rise, give order "Up!" followed by "Dead bird!" Move quickly with the dog in different directions, as to help him hunt the lost bird, which is, meanwhile, held in right hand, out of the dog's sight. After numerous repetitions of the order, drop the pad behind you, and come up towards it from an opposite direction. Soon the dog sees the object of search, and will quickly proceed to fetch. At this moment the order "Fetch! " is given. Ee- peat the exercise for a while, until the dog has understood the meaning of the new order. He will be pleased to search, and impatiently await the order " Up ! " " Dead bird ! " If the dog's enthusiasm is aroused, and he becomes joyful, do not check his ardor, but encourage, to make him quite firm in this lesson, as it is of great importance in actual work afield. 48 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. "UP HERE!" AT THE KENNEL. So far the dog has been returned to his kennel after each lesson, petted, etc., his plain collar ex- changed with the force collar, and left without further molestation, only coming up to him at times during the day to give food and water, leaving him to imagine that when at the kennel all obedience to orders ceases. After returning in the usual manner to the ken- nel, let him "sit down," and pretend to buckle on the plain collar behind the force collar, but drop it, and let the dog retreat into the kennel. Eemain, and after a few moments take up the cord from the ground with both hands and give the order, "Up here!" Most likely he will not obey, and remain motionless, whereupon proceed to haul him out, being careful his head does not get crossed at the entrance, whereby injury might result. Fetch him up squarely before you, order "Sit down ! " and pat him, even if ever so badly performed. After a few moments pretend to leave him, and again he will instantly return into his kennel. Come up and repeat the former procedure. Only a few repeti- tions will be required, for he will readily under- stand that he still has the force collar on his neck, and, to save himself pain, comes out promptly when ordered to do so. By being constantly tied up most dogs become restless, and endeavor to break loose by tugging and jerking on the chain, often dragging the kennel THE AMATEUR TRAINED. 49 all over the yard, etc. This is easily overcome by leaving on and attaching the chain to force collar ; he will break himself in a very short time of the bad habit. THE YARD. If the foregoing lessons have been given in a room, considerable time has been saved, owing to a perfect non-disturbance and detraction of the dog's attention during the exercises, but it now becomes necessary to go through the usual routine in the open yard — not, however, the field. It will be noticed, while all went satisfactorily in the room, at first there will be some difficulty in holding the at- tention of the dog in the yard. Every movement of different objects, such as persons passing by, fowls being in the neighborhood, the house-cat eyeing him, dogs barking close by, etc., etc., will attract the pupil's attention to an astonishing degree, so that quite a little time will be consumed teaching him that, no matter what the surroundings may be, he has but one duty, and that is to give his full at- tention to the movements of his master, and promptly obey orders under all circumstances. If the yard is roomy and contains shrubs, trees, grass, etc., etc., it will be all the better for the practical instruction to seek "dead bird." After having the pad fetched from various distances and directions, (the cord now drags upon the ground till a reprimand may necessitate the taking same in 50 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. hand), conceal the same at various places and pre- tend to search with the dog diligently for a time, directing him here and there with right hand, call- ing "Dead bird!" often, and finally come up to where the pad was dropped, and if possible induce him to nose it out and "fetch." It is important that the dog becomes accustomed to the wave of the hand in the direction he is expected to seek. If some attention is given this matter, it will soon teach the dog to follow direction of hand quite promptly, and eventually he will seek and find by scent. Continually using the pad, it will naturally become soiled to such an extent as to be obnoxious to the dog; no notice should be taken of that. The dog so far has been held to fetch to order by force only; he has long passed the playful stage of voluntarily carrying objects; it is now purely com- pulsory, and such it should be — the dog to have no will in the matter; the will of his master only is to govern his actions. THE REAL BIRD. It is now time a real bird should be provided. If a quail can be obtained at the time, very well ; but it may not be possible, and in that case a tame pigeon (never use a wild dove, because its feathers slip very easily, hence has a bad effect on the dog), may take its place. The dog has no disliking for the house-pigeon, and it is therefore adapted for the purpose designed. It will be best to procure the THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 51 pigeon alive and kill it by suffocation, so as not to soil it with blood. Place the dead bird in a straight position, wings smoothly up to body. Let it cool and get rigid before using for retrieving. Bring the dog to "sit down;" joroduce the bird with right hand; hold close up to the dog's mouth, and order, -'Fetch!" Most likely he will refuse, whereupon use left hand grip to open his mouth; place bird evenly therein, and call, "Hold it!" After a few moments order, "Let go!" Eepeat until he readily takes hold, but be quite particular he does not merely take hold of head, tip of wing, or a small wift of feathers; insist upon taking a square center body-hold, then let him carry same to order, "Fetch here ! " The change from pad to bird will not be difficult. Hold out the bird to about three feet before the dog, for him to come up and take from the hand ; soon this goes fairly well ; then lay bird on the ground (back downj and order, "Fetch!" Should he fail to obey promptly, then use former methods in enforcing obedience. Extend distance by degrees, and finally conceal the bird, as in former lessons on the pad. Encourage to make the dog ambitious in the seeking of the bird, but not to such an extent as to make him playful, and do not let him mouth or toss the same about; sharply reprimand all such proceedings. Use the same bird for the seeking lesson during the next few days, even in hot weather, when decomposition may set in and become fully as offensive to yourself 52 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. as to the dog; by so doing you still further impress obedience, even under adverse circumstances. Pro- cure a variety of game birds to be practiced with, alternating and connecting former exercises. Con- tinual practice in seeking, finding and fetching "dead bird" on all available game birds, will be of great benefit to the dog's future usefulness, and will save time in practice afield later on. THE GUN. At this juncture the gun should be introduced. This must be clone with the greatest care and deliberation. If the dog is courageous and has not been frightened through undue noises, etc., it will require but little time to accustom him to the report of the gun; but if of timid or nervous disposition, it may be of slow progress. A muzzle-loader is best for this purpose, but in this age of improvements in fire-arms, not always handily in reach of the trainer. If a muzzle-loading gun can be procured, proceed as follows: Advance within ten steps of kennel (to which the dog is chained), handle the gun promiscuously in plain sight of the dog ; raise and lower the hammers ; also snap them, if tubes of gun are not to be con- sidered much; finally begin snapping caps. It will now be seen whether the dog evinces any fear; if so, remain at same dibtance and continue the snap- ping of caps. Now set aside the gun, bring out the accustomed vessel containing the dog's food, step THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 53 up and give a small portion of same in the usual manner, withholding balance to follow later. Re- turn with gun to stated distance, and again proceed to snapping of caps. After moving up and down in sight of dog for a few minutes, again snap a few caps ,* set aside gun and hand dog a few morsels. .Repeat this procedure until supply of dog's food is exhausted. Now go up to clog, pat and speak kindly, slip on the force collar, and go through former exercises without producing the gun. The same maneuver must be repeated now daily, until all fear has subsided, gradually having come up to the dog at kennel with gun and snapped caps while he '* sits down." During these exercises exhibit great kindness to dog, fully establishing his confi- dence to such an extent as to make him evince anxiety the moment he sees the gun, having learned that soon after each "gun exhibition" he is favored with the dearest to him in life at this time — his food. The dog now does not mind the snapping of caps. Insert quite a small charge of powder, step up to first distance after having attracted the dog's attention, and discharge the gun. If this does not startle him, remain and gradually" increase the loads, stepping up and handing dog a morsel after each shot, till finally you stand quite up to him at kennel while gun is discharged. But should the light dis- charge have frightened him, then the distance from him was too short and must be increased till even- tually fear has subsided. The extent of this lesson 54 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. must and can easily be judged by any trainer. But it is supposed no muzzle-loading gun is handy, so that the usual breech-loader must come into use, and the snapping of caps not applicable. Then it becomes necessary to load a number of "squibs;" step off to some thirty or forty yards, attract the dog's attention, discharge gun in an opposite direc- tion from him so the emitting fire and smoke do not scare him, and be careful to observe the impression it makes upon the dog. Continue the shooting, alternating with giving morsels as before, till all fear shall have subsided. Perhaps the owner of a puppy, which he is training, resides in a thickly populated part of a city, where shooting, if ever so light, is entirely out of the question. In this case let the dog fast for one day — only giving him plenty of fresh water — then take gun, supply of feed, and dog at heel, to some suitable locality; tie up the dog securely, attach to the force collar (this will prevent any jerking, probably breaking loose, running home, etc.) and begin in a similar manner as above stated. Do not connect this particular lesson with any other till the dog's fear of the gun has completely van- ished. DROP TO SHOT AND WING — "FETCH!" Provide a dead bird, which keep concealed in pocket. Come up to dog in cheerful manner, slip on force collar, order " Come on ! " letting cord drag ; lay gun on left arm in usual way of carrying same, THE AMATEUR TRAINER. 55 and proceed around the yard, stopping from time to time; order to "Sit down!" and insist upon him remaining at the spot. Walk all around him, com- ing up again, etc. Eventually step off to side about ten steps distance from the dog, take bird in right hand unnoticed by dog, toss the bird up and ahead of him in a manner so he must see the flight and fall of same, bring gun to shoulder and fire; at the same time order "Charge!" If he fails to drop promptly, it will be quite necessary to quickly step up and enforce the order. Let him remain down a few moments, then step up close to dog ; order " Up !" "Dead Bird!" and at once proceed in direction where bird fell, waving with right hand to bird, and repeat the order till you notice he sees bird and is about to pick it up ; then give order, " Fetch here ! " Let the dog carry bird a short distance, then take it from him in a proper manner and praise highly, even if all went badly, for it is necessary to encour- age the dog in every possible way at this stage. It will be understood, as the dog progresses in the dropping, seeking and fetching, so that all is evi- dently understood by the pupil, the repetition of orders must be reduced more and more, till eventu- ally the order for "up" and "fetch " will only be the motion of the hand. The trainer can fully see the necessity of repeating an order at particular mo- ments to more firmly establish promptness, and must also gradually confine the orders to the greatest simplicity. Eepeat the throwing of bird from side, 56 THE AMATEUR TRAINER. gradually getting to rear of sitting dog, and from this position teach the dropping to wing. The dog faces from you, throw bird but a few feet over his head so he will notice same, and sim- ultaneously imitate the whirr of a quail with your fluttering tongue by uttering a long extended whir-r-r! The dog will learn to associate the whirr at flight of bird, etc., with order to drop with com- paratively few repetitions; but this lesson should be gone over quite often and from different positions, it saving a great deal of time later, when practicing on live birds afield. When the above goes fairly well, it becomes necessary to connect the report of gun, dropping, seeking and fetching, in such a way that the dog shall not see in what direction the bird is tossed, etc. At a moment when the dog's atten- tion is directed elsewhere, discharge the gun. Always remain standing at place of firing, and insist upon the dog dropping instantly at report. Eemain quiet a few moments, then order "Up!" "Dead bird! " waving here and there, hunting with dog in direction as to him indicated. In the meantime drop the bird behind you into some grass or shrubs, whereupon again direct dog in that direction, giving him the benefit of the wind in nosing out the bird, so he will not only potter around but learn to seek by scent. This is important, and the trainer's judg- ment must dictate to him the time to which the lesson shall be prolonged. m . u. *« — CD KJ g. 3 a -J £ , LU <-> d Z o _ CC <* n Q> y - - 3 1 -5 '. ^ c* u UJ «= h "3 H £ u g c/) 3 r I