Class 8 Book 3^_ Copyright N?_______ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. /oL THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE A COMPLETE TREATISE ON FURNITURE WORK CONTAINING PRACTICAL, COMPREHENSIVE INSTRUCTIONS IN TWENTY-TWO DISTINCTIVE PARTS. ILLUSTRATED WITH 17 HALF TONES. WRITTEN BY G. A. MACKEY, Practical Upholsterer and Interior Decorator, PRICE IN CLOTH BINDING 50c. IN HEAVY PAPER 25c. Copyrighted by THE MACKEY COMPANY 1905 All Rights Reserved. Published by The Mackey Company Elyria, Ohio LIBRARY Of OftNQRESS two Copies Received APR 10 1905 Jouyritfiu tnuy CZM- 7 / ?o 6~ OU&S 6c XXc. NO) COPY B. KNOWING The people of our country to be home makers, who enjoy all home work, when the results are satisfactory and economical, I write "The Upholstering Guide," covering- all parts of the work in a plain, simple manner. There is furniture in every home for which there are possi- bilities. Look it up ; in celler, attic or shed. The more antique, the better. Let me help you with the work. It is my hobby. My knowledge of Upholstering-, Interior Decorating and Furniture Work, gained by twenty-eight years practical experience, is at your disposal, as I personally have charge of the correspondence department and will be glad to advise you at any time. Very truly yours, G. A. MACKEY. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part I. The Start. Upholstered furniture is so varied in style and workman- ship, that I will describe the methods and ways of doing- each and all parts of the work, leaving- you to use that fart best suited to the work in hand. First, see to the tools. For ordinary work, you will need only tack hammer, shears and knife. All the tools that are necessary for the best work, comprising- upholsterer's hammer, shears, webbing- stretcher, curved and straight needles and spring-ing- needle, we can furnish. To work on a chair, g-et a low box to stand chair on, bring-- ing- the seat about to your waist. To work on the back of chair lay it down on the box. For lounge, couch, tete, sofa, etc., use two boxes, one at each end, so as to raise your work to a com- fortable heig-ht for tacking-. Factories and custom shops use regular trestles, but a store box will do as well. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part II. Tearing Down. Do not tear down more thou is necessary. . FIRST look the furniture over carefully, take off the cam- bric lining- at bottom, (if any). You can then see from the bottom if the webbing", springs and burlap partition are in good shapr\ If in good shape, do not disturb them ; simply re-cover. ( See Part IX.) If webbing is broken, tack back in place as best you can, and put over it a new webbing bottom. (See Part III.) If seat is all in bad shape so it can not be repaired from the bottom take everything off. Start with us at Part III and go through to the finish. You will find it very easy, taking up a part at a time, until completed. NOTE. — If you will examine the work as you tear it apart, it will ho a great help to you in putting it in shape again. Notice particularly how the springs are placed and tied. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part III. The Webbing or Foundation. The webbing- is the foundation and must be tacked on securely, using* 12 oz, tacks and tacking on the extreme bottom. Fold the raw edge in and tack to one side of frame securely. Then stretch across and tack. Use a webbing stretcher, to get it tight. It can be stretched by hand, if a webbing stretcher is not at hand. Stretch as many strips as necessary across one way. Then stretch strips across the opposite way, weaving over and under to form a firm, taut foundation. (See Illustra- tion.) The closer you place the strips of webbing, the stronger your foundation will be. NOTE. — After you stretch and tack your webbing, cut the webbing off one inch outside your tacks so you can fold back and double tack. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part IV, Sewing in Springs. Sew spring's to webbing' with flax stitching twine, using a springing needle. Simply hold spring in place and sew through the webbing around the base loop of spring. Sew up on one side of wire and down on the other, forming a firm, quarter- inch stitch, about four stitches to each spring. When putting springs in a slat bottom longue or couch, drive staples through the base wire into the slats. NOTE — It's best to use same number of springs as origin- ally used, but if you wish more, don't place them closer than one inch, and keep them about three inches from the edge of frame. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part V. Spring Tying. Springs are tied with flax spring- twine, using 12-oz. tacks to secure ends of twine. Begin by cutting twine in lengths to reach across the frame, over the springs, and allow three inches for knots on each spring to be tied. Tie a common knot at one end of twine which you secure to edge of frame by driving a 12-oz. tack through the knot and into the frame, in a line with each row of springs. Then draw the \w\x\e forwa?'d and loop it around the top coil of the first spring. Slide the spring forward or backward until in a straight, upright position, then tie. Cross over to opposite side and tie again. Then come forward to next spring and tie, and continue tying each spring to the last, when you secure twine to edge of frame by driving a tack half in, on a line with the tied springs ; twist the twine around it, draw springs down as far as you wish and drive the tack solid. Then cross-tie in the same manner. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE Part VI. Putting on Partition. This should be of good, strong 1 burlap, coffee sacking- or duck. Tack partition over the springs, using 4-oz. tacks, driv- en from one to two inches apart to hold securely. Do not stretch partition too tight. Cut to fit the seat allowing about two inches all around to fold back and tack. . Lay the burlap over the springs so as to have plenty to tack all around. Then fold edges and tack at front, back and sides. Then tack, to the coiners. In this way, you are sure to get the partition on evenly, without any baggy surplus at the corners. Back partitions are tacked on in the same manner. Always tack center first then finish tacking to corners. 10 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part VII. Making Square Edge. This edge is used where a substantial edge is desired lor a seat or back. Can also be used to very good advantage as an edge on a spring-edge couch, when a smooth, plain job is de- sired. Pinning and stitching to wire edge instead of tacking as on a seat or back. First, you fill the seat of back about two inches, with ex- celsior or flax tow. Then loose tack a burlap cover over it. Mark around on the burlap, about three inches from the outer edge and stitch with stitching twine up and down through the partition and marked burlap, keeping on the marks. Take out the loose tacks and fill the edges to form a roll of the heighth desired and tack down securely. Then take needle and stitch through the roll from the outer side to the top. Stitch the full length of the roll and you will have a good, firm edgr. Take stitches about one inch apart. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. ll Part VIII. Filling or Stuffing. If the filling- when taken from your job is in good shape, and you are careful in removing - it, you can often use it again without disturbing it. Otherwise, you must shake it all out and loosen it up so you can spread it evenly. No matter what filling you use in your work, spread it evenly. This assures you a nice, smooth job. Fill to a thickness of from one and one- half to two inches when matted. This you can determine by placing your hand under the partition and on top of the filling and press together. Or you may fill till you do not feel the springs through the filling. Always lay cotton over the filling before you put on the cover. NOTE- — Use flax tow for most work for tufted work or leather. Moss or hair is best 12 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part IX. Putting on the Cover. There are a few simple rules in tacking- on a cover, which, if followed, will give you a nice, smooth job. Always start tacking at ihe back of a seat, or the bottom of a back. On a seat, tack back center first, then draw to front and tack center. Next tack center on each side, drawing the cover down well as you tack. Then tack from center to corners, all around, then finish corners by cutting the goods toward the arm or back parts, starting to cut at the corners of the goods or cover, fold in the surplus, draw down and tack. It is a good plan to loose-tack your cover on first, to get it in place. Then draw down and tack solid. NOTE. — Do not fold in the raw edges of goods ; simplv tack flat in a straight line and trim the surplus goods off with a sharp knife. Then gimp. (See Part XII.) If the chair is to have a front band, or the cover extends under the back or arms, you may sew on an extension of ticking, thereby saving cover- ing- material. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 13 Part X. Tufting with Allowances. In making- tufted work, care must he taken in making - the proper allowances for fullness. For biscuit tufts, mark your cover one and one-half inches larger than your foundation. For instance : you wish to divide a seat or back into three-inch biscuits, you would mark your foundation three inches square, and your cover four and one-quarter inches square, and allow one inch more for the outer row or edge. For diamond tufts, allow one and one-half inches in width and three-quarters in length, viz. : A diamond of 5 x 8, would mark foundation 5 x 8. (See Illustration IX) and the cover b}4 x83/[. These allowances are right for all sized work ; so no matter what size tuft you make, the above rule can be fol- lowed. After buttoning or tacking the cover and the founda- tion through corresponding marks, one row at a time, you stuff or fill them until all are even and smooth. Then you fill and tack the edges down all around. 14 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part XI. Fancy Bands and Fronts. A nice front band often relieves an otherwise very plain piece of furniture Plain bands are made by sewing a three and one-half or four inch strip of material to the front edge of seat, a little below the top of edge. Use a curved needle and sew with a two inch stitch or closer. Fill with cotton and tack down. Then sew on a silk cord, sewing through the under twist of cord, thereby concealing the stitches. A buttoned front is made in the same manner, except that you divide and mark off the front into spaces of from three to three and one-half inches. (See Illustration of Part X. ) And when sewing on the band lay a one-half inch pleat at each mark. After sewing on the band, draw a button into each pleat half way down between top and bottom of band. Secure buttons to chair front with curved needle. Starting at one end secure twine to button then to chair front, then next button, and so on until all are drawn tight to the front. Then fill between each button and tack down, drawing the pleats down straight. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 15 Part XII. Gimping===(Binding.) Before gimping a chair care should be taken to see that it is all trimmed off nice and even. Take a sharp knife and give it a rough cutting edge on sandstone or sandpaper. Trim away all the surplus goods and ragged edges. Then gimp, using the small headed tacks made for this purpose. The corners should be carefully turned by folding the gimp back at corner and tacking. It will then form a blind tacked, mitred corner. Leather work should be finished with leather binding and large leather-headed tacks. Cover bottoms and backs with cambric or cotton flannel. We are always careful in matching gimps and cords to coverings, otherwise a very nice job could very easily be spoiled . 16 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part XIII. Couch Construction. Most furniture now manufactured is built with the spring or soft edge construction, and we feel this to be a very important part of this work. You will have no trouble with it if you get a couch started right along with me, then you will be better able to see and understand. If there is any point not made clear, Write Us. I will give a complete explanation of fastening and tying the springs. You use that part of it which is necessary to make your couch right. The springs must be securely fastened to the webbing or slats. The edge springs must set close against the inside of the edge of frame. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 17 Part XIV. Spring Edge. Tie across the eoueh first. Cut as man}- lengths of twine as there are rows of springs. Cut each twine six feet. Tie a knot fifteen inches from one end of twine and fasten a twine to the frame at center of each row of springs, by driving a 12 oz. tack through the knot and into the frame. Commence tying by a single loop around the fourth coil from the top of spring. Draw the spring forward so the top coil is just even with the outside of the frame when the edge spring is held level across the top. To get this just right, you work } T our edge spring backward and forward on the loop. When in proper posi- tion (as above) you hold loop tight and form a knot, of which the loop was the first part. Then you pass the twine up inside the spring and tie around the back or inner side of the top coil, which leaves the froit of top coil free to work up or down, thus forming the spring edge. After tying the edge spring, continue tying across the couch in the regular manner (as Part V) until you come to the opposite edge spring, which must be tied with the same results as the other side, only reversing the work by looping around the inner side of top coil and draw until straight with outer edge of frame, then tie, and go down inside of edge spring and tie at fourth loop, and secure twine to frame. This will leave a long end of twine for future use. Keeping on in this way, tie all the cross rows except the row at the foot of couch which is left to form a spring edge end. The heads are usually tied plain, without the spring edge. 18 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part XIV==Continued. To tie lengthwise of couch, cut the twines eight feet long, fasten on the cross-piece or brace at the head of couch and tie each spring straight, as for common seat, until you come to end spring which you tie to form a spring edge at end, same as sides. Tie all lengthwise, except the edge rows. Then you fasten your edge wire to the edge springs by looping the five inch surplus twine ends around both the wire and edge springs, and drawing them down to the proper height, which is from three and one-half to five inches. (It is a good plan to notice what this height is before you cut off all the old twines when tearing apart.) After tying the wire and spring edge together draw the end of twine back to inner top loop of edge spring and tie again. Then wrap the wire and edge spring on each side of knot, using stitching twine. After making your edge good and solid and straight, you tie the edge springs length- wise and the end edge springs across, and your springs are com- plete. The corner springs at the foot of couch usually hold with the last bias tying. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 19 Part XV. A Complete Couch. Now to complete our couch we must put on a good, strong par- tition or foundation, tacking it over the springs to the sides of the frame and sew the partition to the edge wire, by simply stitching through the partition and around the wire. Then comes the cover. If you wish plain top with band sides, (See Parts IX and XI.) If you want it tufted, mark off your partition and make to suit your own taste, using allowances as Part X. If the original cover is good, use the same button marks as before and mark the new parti- tion by the old. The best way to upholster a couch is with a plain top — spring edge, with stitched roll, as Part VII. Upholster it in heavy muslin or the old cover, and use a Bagdad or loose cover over it. These are inexpensive, sanitary and convenient. We can supply you with all styles. 20 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part XVI. Skirt, Shirt Waist and Shoe Boxes. These convenient and handsome novelties are easily upholstered. The boxes can be bad from the grocer, shoe and dry goods dealer. A Star soap box is just right for a shoe box, being the right height to sit on when dressing the fest. The long, narrow boxes, for skirts, you will find at the shoe dealers. Shirt waist boxes are usually found at the dry goods store. The lid, after being oleated together and hinged, may be cov- ered plain over several layers of cotton, or made more elaborate by tufting. (vSee Part X. > For the box part, cut a strip four inches wide and long enough to go around the box. Tack it on the upper edge of box ; make a roll of cotton and place under it and tack down. Then pleat on a valance. A box pleat looks best. Line the inside with cambric and gimp all raw edges. You can have these boxes any size to fit any space. They are very pretty piled with pillows. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part XVII. Nooks and Corners. Have you a window in which you wish to build a seat ? If you wish it temporary, at but little cost, fit the space with suitable boxes and upholster as Part XVI. If you want something special, or more elaborate, after your carpenter has built the window seat, send us the exact dimensions of the top, and we will draft you a regular pattern of the latest style seat top, all ready to mark off on material, sew up and fill. As a customers this service is free to you. The common boxes can be made very pretty by tufting the top and putting uii a buttoned band and then a valance. Cozy corners fit the little nooks and turns nicely, and are easily made by following the different parts of this work. You can trim them to suit your individual taste and requirements. We have art materials, figured and colored demins and burlaps especially for this purpose. 22 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Part XVIII. Leather Seats in Dining Chairs. It costs from 75 cents to $1.00 to have a chair seat re-caned, so we will put a leather seat in this one, and save money, besides hav- ing a handsomer and better seat. First, stretch webbing across each way of the seat, tacking just outside of old cane holes on the top of seat. Then tack on a parti- tion of good burlap or heavy duck. Then cut your cover to fit and tack on well each way, leaving it open at .the front, where you fill or stuff it. Take a yard stick or flat piece of wood and stuff in the filling, a little at a time to keep it smooth. By beating the top of the seat with your stick as you fill it, will help keep it smooth, and you will have a perfect seat. After filling, close the front and trim and gimp it with leather binding and leather-headed tacks. Fill with moss or hair ; flax tow will do. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 23 Part XIX. Refinishing Woodwork. Here are a few rules, which if followed closely, will make your furniture look fresh and new. If you wish to refinish a frame, always clean it well, first by sponging it thoroughly with a solution of sal soda and water, just strong enough to cleanse nicely, then rinse off well and allow to thoroughly dry. Then see that the frame is perfectly free from dust and flow on a coat of No. 1 furni- ture varnish. Use a very soft brush and place frame where there will be no dust, until thoroughly dry. If you wish a high polish, let it dry at least four days, then rub with water and rottonstone, clean off and polish by rubbing with the palm of the hand after dipping the hand into a very weak solution of sulphuric acid and water. For an oil finish, rub with o\\ and rottenstone. If you wish to change the finish, as from light wood to mahogany, antique oak to golden oak, etc., it is best to get the stains ready mixed. We will be glad to supply your individual requirements and tell you just what to do, if you write us. 24 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Miscellaneous Furniture Helps. For A Dainty Chamber. Paint the woodwork white, the ceiling- a faint tint of green, cover the walls with a paper having a cream ground, green foli- age and pink flowers. Either wild roses or apple blossoms would be pretty. If your floor is pine, stain mahogany and use rugs. Or use a Japanese matting, make window draperies and bed spread of English dimity or art ticking, using a pattern having a white ground with delicate lines or vines oi pink. The furniture should be all white enamel. We will quote you a price on our system of enamel work and send Jull instructions for using same, if you will state size of room and number of doors and windows and amount of furniture you wish to enamel. Our systemis the results of experience and is simple, durable and most economical. Oak or Mahogany Stain. For oak stain, mix together a pint of boiled linseed oil, a o-ill and a half of turpentine, three table spoonfuls of raw umber, same of whiting. Mahogany stain is made with one pint of boiled linseed oil, a gill and a half of turpentine, three table spoonfuls of sienna, three table spoonfuls of whiting, half a table spoonful of yellow ochre, half a table spoonful of Bismark brown and half a teaspoonful of aniline black. Try a little stain on a piece of board before using on floor or piece of furniture. You can lighten or darken the shade by increasing or diminish- ing the coloring matter. Rub the stain into the wood, let set a day or two, and rub hard with a woolen cloth, then varnish, wax or oil finish it. To Clean Mahogany or High Polished Furniture. Spread parafine oil on the woodwork and let it stand an hour or more to soften the dirt, then wash with soap and warm water and wipe dry. Next rub on a mixture of parafine two- thirds and turpentine one-third, and polish with soft old flan- nel. Let it rest for an hour or two, then polish with soft old linen. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 25 Ink Stains. Can be removed from mahogany with one teaspoonful of oil of vitrol mixed with one tablespoonful of water, or by oxalic acid and water. These washes should be used lightly and quickly and then washed off with milk. To Clean Leather. Mix tog-ether one-half pound each of French chalk and fuller's earth, two ounces of powdered starch and one ounce of of yellow ochre. Wet this with boiling - water enough to make a thin paste and add one table spoonful of sweet oil, when cold spread on the soiled leather and let dry, then brush off. Clean thoroughly, then polish with wax melted and turpentine, (four ounces wax, 1 gill turpentine ) To darken the leather, add little oil to wax preparation. Bamboo, Rattan and Cane Furniture should be cleaned with salt dissolved in warm water. Salt pre- vents it from turning yellow. Use a brush and scrub well, leav- ing no place untouched. Japanese or Indian matting should receive the same treatment after being thoroughly swept. Spots on Leather Covered Furniture may be rubbed off with a soft cloth wrung out of hot milk. Furniture Polish. Equal parts crude nil and turpentine. Rub well with a flannel cloth and polish with a dry one. Oil and vinegar is very good for wiping up both furniture and linoleum. Mahogany Polish is composed of one-third part boiled linseed and two-thirds part alcohol schallac varnish. Shake well, apply in small quantities. Rub well and polish vigorously with a dry flannel. Moths In Upholstered Furniture. Sprinkle with benzine, it will not stain the most delicate silk and the oder will soon pass away. 26 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Moths in Clothes Closets. Burn a teasponful of ^ r um camphor where they are. Moths Under Carpets. Spread a zvct sheet oti the carpet and run a hot iron quickly over it. The steam will destroy both worms and eggs. Moths Under the Edge of Carpet. Get a supply of permangranate of potash and make solution by' placing - one-fourth ounce of crystals in an old pail and pour over them a quart of boiling water. Then apply it all around the edge of room with an old cloth. Use it hot and cover a foot or two all around the edge of room. The liquor sinking into the wood kills all life in the crannies of the floor, or in the wood fibre. Newspapers thickly spread on floor and in chests make them go. They don"t like fin' liter's ink. Sure Death to Bed Bugs. An unfailing preparation for the extermination of bed bugs is as follows: Mix 10 cents worth of corrosive sublimate, lo cents worth of carbolic acid and a quart of naptha. Apply daily with a brush in all spotswhich indicate the presence of such pests. Use small brush and don't miss a corner or crevise where they might escape, and in a short time they will be absolutely removed. Always open windows and be very careful of any light or fire when using this .mixture, as it is very inflammable. Brass Bed Polish. Clean with rotten stone and oil, or any good brass polish. When clean, burnish by rubbing with a clean flannel cloth until brass is hot, then apply alcohol shellac with a small paintbrush and it will look and wear like new. In putting down Turkish rugs always spread with the warp toward the light in order to get full effect of the sheen. An Inexpensive Couch. For couch for chamber or common room, get a woven wire springs cot (cost $2.00.) A composition mattress to fit (cost Si. 50) and material for loose drapery at most any price. We can furnish you a regular couch cover at Si. 75 that is good. Making a total of $5.25 for a very comfortable Bagdad or Per- sion draped couch. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 27 Part XXI. How to Measure for Cover. If you can not determine just how much material you need for a certain job, take measures as follows and we will send you a memorandum of the amount of goods required, and cut to fit when we receive your order. f From back to front -. inches. Measure Seat < (From side to side inches. ( From top to bottom inches. Measure Back ■< ( From side to side inches. Arms, if any, — give length and width. For lounge or couch, give length or width, and state whether plain or tufted. NOTE. — Take all measurements over the old cover. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. SAMPLE DEPARTMENT. How to Order Samples. On the next page are a few small samples to give you an idea of our goods and prices. We import and carry a full line of all furniture coverings. Can furnish you with any grade or color you may wish, from cotton goods at 20 cents a yard to imported silks and Orientals at $18.00 per yard. Will gladly send you samples of any you may wish, if you will kindly assist us to make an intelli- gent selection of samples suitable to your individual needs. To do this, please state style or kind of furniture you wish to upholster and color or kind of wood and frame. If you know in which room you will place it, kindly let us know the predominating color of carpet and walls. We will then be able to send you samples of goods that will be in harmony with the frame and surroundings. No matter what grade of material you select, harmony is most essential. Our goods are graded so you may easily determine the quality of which you wish samples. GradeA, $4.00to$lS.OO; B, $1.25 to $3.50 ; C.$ .75 to $1.50 ; D, $ .20 to $ .75. This free sample service for our customers only. THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 29 Our upholstering materials are produced in the best textile mills in the world — we guarantee them. Dark Green, Maroon, Tan. Dark Green, Maroon, Tan. Leather, 30 cents square foot. Chase leather, 30 cents square foot. Myrtle Green, Old Red, Olive, Brown, Old Rose, Light Blue. Myrtle Green, Old Rose, Ecru, Brown, Olive. Silk Brockatelle, 50 in. wide, $3.38. Goeblin Tapestry, 50 in. wide, $1. 25 in. wide, $1.70. 25 in. wide, $ .95. Myrtle Green, Red, Brown, Blue. Striped Effects, in all Colors. Velour, 27 in. wide, $ .65. Oriental Damask, 50 in, wide, % .50. 25 in. wide, $ .25. 30 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. Upholstering Supplies and Tools. Upholsterer's H ammer 35c Webbing Stretcher 15c Curved Needles, 6 in. 18c. 4 in. 15c Straight Needle, double point 16-in. 25c. -'-in. 15c. Shears 50c to $1.50 Springing Needles 5c Complete Outfit $1.50. Slitchiner Twine, per 100 yards. ..10c Spring- Twine, per 100 feet 10c Webbing-, per foot 2c 12-oz. Tacks, per pkg 10c 4-oz. Tacks, per pkg 5c 2}4-oz. Tacks, per pkg 5c Gimp Tacks, per pkg 5c 12-inch Springs, each 6c 9-inch Springs, each 5c 6-inch Springs, each 4c Hair, per lb 15 to 30c Moss, per lb 8 1c 15c Flax Tow, per lb 2 to 3c Wood Wool, per lb \y 2 to 2c Ball Bearing Casters, set of 4 35c Philadelphia Casters, set of 4 20c Either Stem or Plate. The following are furnished in all the standard colors to match goods. Silk Gimp, per yard 3c Acme Gimp, per yard 2c Silk Cord, per yard 6c Acme Cord, per yard.. 4c Leather Binding, per yard 2c Leather Tacks, per 100 25c Leather Buttons, per 100 25c Buttons or Tacks covered to order per dozen 10c Patent Clinch Buttons, per 100. ..35c Covered to order, extra, per doz..l5c THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. 31 To Order Material. In ordering goods and supplies it is best to send money with order, thereby saving the C. O. D. return charges. If you do not know the exact amount and send more than is necessary to pay the bill, we return the balance at once. If you wish you may send your order without the remittance and we will mail you a memoranda of the bill. Should you order goods shipped C. O. D. inclose about one- third the amount of order. If the order is small (under 4 pounds) better order it sent by mail. Large bulky orders we ship by freight, unless ordered rush. We always ship to your best advan- tage. We refer you to the banks and express companies in our city. 32 THE UPHOLSTERING GUIDE. To Our Customers. Kindly bear in mind the fact that we are prepared and will be pleased to answer any and all questions pertaining to upholstering and home decoration. And while this book covers all the points on upholstering-, we are always ready to advise you concerning your particular case. We are yours to command, The Mackey Company, Elyria, Ohio. LB Agra ^ f ^.7