HI ill Hi iBBiMamntBB ■flHHRl MIL Bin AI -d ■ftfl ?i Hi II Hi M H HW BHBw t IliU 09W H& Hi ■Hi m H0liIrHMHif)f £-> BOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS. THE SANATIVE INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE. With an Account of the t, Places of Resort for Invalids. By Sir Jamks Clark, Bart., M.D. Tost 10*. 6d. A MANUAL OF SCIENTIFIC S T QUIET; For the use of Travellers. led by Sir J. Hkkschk i i>s. Post 8vo, 10s. 6d. HUMBOLDT'S COSMOS. Translated by Mrs. Sabink. 3 vols. Post 8vo, 5*. HUMBOLDT'S ASPECTS OF NATURE. Translated by Mrs. Sabink. 2 vols. Post PHYSICAL GEOGEAPHY. By Mrs.Somerville. Portrait. 2 vols. 12mo, 12*. < i:XION OF TI IYSICAL SCIENCES. By Mrs. Somerville. Plates. Fcap. 8vo, 1 PRINCIPLES OF GEOLOGY r . By Sir Charles Lvbll. Woodcuts. 8vo, 18*. MANUAL OF ELEMENTARY GEOLOGY. By Sir Charles Lv Woodcuts. 8vo, 12*. ED BYRON'S LIFE AND LETTEES. Portraits. Royal 8vo, 12*. LORD BYRON'S POETICAL WORKS. The Complete Edition. Portrait BOSWELL'S LIFE OF JOHNSON. Edited, with Notes, by Mr. Croker. Portraits. Royal 8vo, 15*. I ABBE'S LIFE AND POETICAL WORKS. Portrait. Royal 8vo, 10*.6d. OUTLINES OF ENGLISH LITERATURE. By t. b. Shaw. i2mo, i VXD WORKS OF HORACE. By Rev. Dean Milman. Illustrated by s. 8vo, 42s. LL NS IN TRAVEL. By Sir Humphry Davy. Woodcuts. Fcar>. SALMONIA, OR DAYS OP FLY FISHING. By Sir Humphry Daw. Wood- cuts. Fcap. 8vo, 6*. SPECIMENS OF COLERIDGE'S TABLE TALK. Portrait. Fcap.8vo,6*. THE INTELLECTUAL POWERS. By Dr. Abercrombie, Fcap. 8vo, PHILOSOFHY OF THE MORAL FEELINGS. By Dr. Abercrombie, Fcap. 8vo, 4*. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. rr, 1851. 'mWi •>©*.*■« 1 £■. ■ h _ *A. ... '-•V. \ . A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. NOTICE. This Edition of the Handbook has been subjected to a most careful and thorough revision ; many new routes, including the Railroads of Holland, Germany, and Belgium, are added, and several have been re-written. The Editor trusts that the imperfections and errors of this book will be found to have been considerably diminished. His own personal rectification of mis- takes and omissions has been most materially aided by the communications of numerous and obliging correspondents, many of them personally unknown to him, to whom he takes this opportunity of returning his acknowledgments. He begs, at the same time, to repeat his request that travellers who may in the use of the Handbook detect any faults or omissions which they can correct from 'personal knowledge, will have the kindness to mark them down on the spot, with the date when they are made, and communicate to him a notice of the same, favouring him at the same time with their names — addressed to the care of Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street. The Editor ventures also to request his cor- respondents to write foreign names with as much distinctness as possible. They may be reminded that by such communications they are not merely furnishing the means of improving the Handbook, but are contributing to the benefit, information, and comfort of future travellers. *#* No attention can be paid to letters from innkeepers in praise of their own houses ; and the postage of them ' is so onerous that they cannot be received. The Editor of the Handbooks for Travellers takes this opportunity of re- turning his thanks to the numerous obliging correspondents who have favoured him by communicating notices of errors and omissions in this and other Guide- books, of which he has gladly availed himself to improve the present Edition. He has also derived considerable benefit from a German translation of the Handbooks executed by Mr. Baedeker, an intelligent bookseller of Coblenz, who has performed the part not merely of translator but of a careful Editor, and, having visited a large part of Germany, has added greatly to the accuracy and value of the work by his own personal observations, the greater part of which have been incorporated in this Edition. Caution to Travellers. — By a recent Act of Parliament the introduction into England of foreign pirated Editions of the works of British authors, in which the copyright subsists, is totally prohibited. Travellers will therefore bear in mind that even a single copy is contraband, and is liable to seizure at the English Custom-house. Caution to Innkeepers and others. — The Editor of the Handbooks has learned from various quarters that a person or persons have of late been ex- torting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others, on the Con- tinent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable notices of them and their establishments in the Handbooks for Travellers. The Editor, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that recom- mendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by purchase, and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are totally unknown to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such promises, may rest assured that they will be defrauded of their money without attaining their object.— 1843. A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT; BEING A GUIDE THROUGH HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA, AND NORTHERN GERMANY, AND &long tjje Hin'ne, from $^ollanfc to §bfott?erlanfc ; CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS OF THE PRINCIPAL CITIES, THEIR MUSEUMS, PICTURE-GALLERIES, &c. ; THE RAILWAYS AND GREAT HIGH ROADS ; THE MOST INTERESTING AND PICTURESQUE DISTRICTS ; AND THE MOST FREQUENTED BATHS AND WATERING-PLACES : ALSO, DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS, AND HINTS FOR TOURS. A WITH AN INDEX MAP, A AND PLANS OF THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS. EIGHTH EDITION, CORRECTED AND AUGMENTED. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS : A. W. GALIGNANI AND CO. ; STASSIN AND XAVIER. LEIPZIG: LONGMAN. 1851.' ./A A THE ENGLI iTHE LIBRARY] JOF CONGRESS! Il EDITK5J1&I 01 THE IWASBlNflSE^S lNDBOOKS for travellers ISHED — AIX-LA- \ CHAPELLE f AMSTERDAM ANTWERP BADEN-BADEN BERLIN BRUSSELS CARLSRUHE COBLENTZ COLOGNE DRESDEN FRANKFURT GRATZ THE HAGUE HAMBURG -many, BY I. D. MAYER ; L. KOHNEN. — J. MULLER. — MAX. KORNICKER. — D. R. MARX. — A. DUNCKER. — C. MUQUARDT ; KIESS- L1NG & CO.; A. DECQ ; MICHEL. — CREUZBAUER & CO. and A. BIELEFELD. — BAEDEKER. — L. KOHNEN; A. BAEDE- KER. — ARNOLD. — C. JUGEL. — DAMIAN & SORGE. — VAN STOCKUM. — PERTHES, BESSER, & MAUKE. md, and Belgium, at HEIDELBERG LEIPZIG LUXEMBOURG MANNHEIM MAYENCE MUNICH NURNBERG PESTH PRAGUE ROTTERDAM STUTTGART VIENNA In Italy, at TOLOGNA FLORENCE GENOA LEGHORN LUCCA MALTA MANTUA MILAN MODENA BY M. RUSCONI, FRERES. — JOS. MOLINI. — ANTOINE BEUF. — ROLANDI. — F. BARON. — MUIR. — NEGRETTI, FRERES. — DUMOLARD FRERES ; MOLINARI ; F. ARTA- RIA & SON ; P. & J. VALLARDI; TENDLER & SCHAEFER. — VINCENZI & ROSSI. NAPLES NICE PALERMO PARMA PISA PERUGIA ROME SIENNA TRIESTE TURIN VENICE In France, at AMIENS ANGERS AVRANCHES BAYONNE BORDEAUX BOULOGNE BREST CAEN CALAIS DIEPPE DINANT DOUAI DUNKERQUE GRENOBLE HAVRE LILLE LYONS MARSEILLES METZ MONTPELLIER MULHOUSE MADRID AARAU BASLE BERN CONSTANCE FREIBURG ST. GALLEN GENEVA LAUSANNE ST. PETERS- 1 BURGH j BY CARON. — BARASSE'. _ ANFRAY. — JAYMEBON. — CHAUMAS; LAWALLE. — WATEL ; MERRIDEW. — HEBERT. _ VILLENEUVE. — RIGAUX CAUX. _ MARAIS. _ COSTE. a — JACQUART ; LEMALE. — LEYSCHOCHART. — VELLOT ET COMP. — COCHARD ; MADAME BER- TIN HUE. — VANACKERE ; BEGHIN. — GIBERTON & BRUN ; AYNE' FILS. — MADAME CAMOIN. — WARION. — LEVALLE. — RISLER. NANCY NANTES ORLEANS PARIS PAU PERPIGNAN REIMS ROCHE FORT ROUEN ST. ETIENNE ST. MALO ST. QUENTIN STRASBOURG TOULON TOULOUSE TOURS TROYES BY J. C. B. MOHR. _ T. O. WEIGEL. — BUCK. — ARTARIA & FONTAINE. — VON ZABERN. — LITERARISCH - ARTIST- ISCHE ANSTALT & I. PALM. — SCHRAG. — HARTLEBEN & G. HEC- KENAST. — CALVE. — A. BAEDEKER ; H. A. KRAMERS. — P. NEFF. — BRAUMULLER & SETDEL ; C. GEROLD, P. ROHR- MAN, SCHAUMBURG & CO. BY CABRLO ATELLI & CO. — VISCONTI. — CHARLES BEUF. _ J. ZANGHIERI. _ NISTRI, FRERES ; JOS. VANNUCCHI. — VINCENZ. BARTELLT. _ VENANZIO MONALDINI ; M. MERLE. _ ONORATO TORRI. — FAVARGER. — GIANNINI & FIORE ; BOCCA; MAR1ETTI. _ HERMAN F. MUNSTER. BY GONET. — GUE'RAUD ; FOREST AINE'. — GATINEAU ; PESTY. — GALTGNANI ; STASSIN ET XAVIER. — AREES ; AUG. BASSY ; LAFON. ^ — JULIA FRERES. — BRISSART BINET. — PENARD. — LEBRUMENT. _ DE LARUE. — HUE. — DOLOY. — DER1VAUX; TREUTELL & WURTZ ; Z. G. GRUC- KER. — MONGE ET V1LLAMUS. — GALLON; H. LEBON. — COUSTURIER ; BONTE. — LALOY. Ill Spain, at BY CRO. MONIER. | GIBRALTAR BY GEORGE ROWSWELL. Iii Switzerland, at BY SAUERLAENDER. — FR. WALZ. — HUBER & CO. — GLUCKER. — HERDER. — HUBER. — P. G. LEDOUBLE ; ROGIS; MONROE DES- GEX. HIGNOU & CO. ; WEBER. LUCERNE BY MEYER. MUHLHAUSEN - ENGELMANN ROTWEIL - HERDER. SCHAFFHAUSEN — gURrER SOLEURE THUR WINTERTHUR ZURICH REUTER. — GRUBENMANN. — STEINER. — H. FUSSLI & CO. LEUTHOLD. H. F In Russia, at BY J. ISSAKOFF ; N. ISSA! KOFF; BELLlZARii.- MOSCOW ODESSA BYW. GAUTIER. — VILLIETTY. In Constantinople, by j. j. wick. PREFACE. The writer of this volume, having experienced, as every Englishman visiting the Continent must have done, the want of any tolerable English Guide Book for Europe north of the Alps, was induced, partly for his own amusement, partly to assist his friends going abroad, to make copious notes of all that he thought worth observation, and of the best modes of tra- velling and seeing things to advantage. In the course of repeated journeys and of occasional residence in various parts of the Continent, he not only traversed beaten routes, but visited many spots to which his countrymen rarely penetrate. Thus his materials have largely accumulated ; and in the hope that they may render as much service to the public generally as he is assured they already have done to private friends, he is now induced to put them forth in a printed form. The Guide Books hitherto published are for the most part either general descriptions compiled by persons not acquainted with the spots, and there- fore imperfect and erroneous, or are local histories, written by residents who do not sufficiently discriminate between what is peculiar to the place, and what is not worth seeing, or may be seen equally well or to greater advantage somewhere else. The latter overwhelm their readers with minute details of its history " from the most ancient times," and with genealogies of its princes, &c. : the former confine themselves to a mere catalogue of buildings, institutions, and the like ; after reading which, the stranger is as much as ever in the dark as to what really are the curiosities of the place. They are often mere reprints of works published many years ago, by no means' corrected or brought down to the present time ; and whether accurate or not originally, are become, from the mere changes which each year produces, faulty and antiquated. The writer of the Handbook has endeavoured to confine himself to matter-of-fact descriptions of what ought to be seen at each place, and is calculated to interest an intelligent English traveller, without bewildering his readers with an account of all that may be seen. He has avoided chronological details ; and, instead of abridging the records of a town from beginning to end, he has selected such local anecdotes as are connected with remarkable events which have happened there, or with distinguished men who have lived there. He has adopted as simple and condensed a style as possible, avoiding florid descriptions and exaggerated superlatives ; preferring to avail himself of the descriptions of others, where they ap- peared good and correct, to obtruding extracts from his own journals. Whenever an author of celebritjr, such as Scott, Byron, Rogers, or Sou- they, has described a place, he has made a point of extracting the passage, knowing how much the perusal of it on the spot, where the works them- selves are not to be procured, will enhance the interest of seeing the objects described. ABBREVIATIONS, &c, USED IN THE HANDBOOK. The points of the Compass are marked simply by the letters N. S. E. "W. (rt.) right, (I.) left. The right bank of a river is that which lies on the right hand of a person whose back is turned towards the source, or the quarter from which the current descends. m. = mile ; B. or Bte. = Boute ; St. or Stat. = Bailway Station. When miles are spoken of without any descriptive epithet, English statute miles are to be understood. The names of inns precede the description of every place (often in a paren- thesis), because the first information needed by a traveller is where to lodge. The best inns, as far as they can be determined, are placed, first. Instead of designating a town by the vague words "large" or "small," the amount of the population, according to the latest census, is almost invariably stated, as presenting a more exact scale of the importance and size of the place. In order to avoid repetition, the Routes through the larger states of Europe are preceded by a chapter of preliminary information ; and, to facilitate reference to it, each division or paragraph is separately numbered. Every Route has a number, corresponding with the figures attached to the Route on the Map, which thus serves as an index to the Book ; at the same time that it presents a tolerably exact view of the great high roads of Europe, and of the course of public conveyances. The Map is to be placed at the end of the book. The Plans of Amsterdam, Antwerp, Brussels, Cologne, Hamburg, Berlin, Dresden, and Frankfurt on the Main, are to be placed respectively opposite to the commencement of the descrip- tions of those towns. N.B. — The information given in the following pages respecting steamers, railroads, exhibitions, &c, applies to the usual summer travelling season. There are usually fewer trains and steamers, and shorter times of admission, during the end of the autumn, the winter, and early spring. These changes are easily ascertained on the spot : it is only necessary to caution the traveller respecting them. INTRODUCTION, CONTAINING INFORMATION WHICH MAY BE OF USE BEFORE LEAVING ENGLAND. a. Maxims and Hints for Travelling. — b. Language. — c. Money ; Circular Notes. — d. Passports. — e. Couriers. — f. Carriage. — g. Some Requisites for Travelling, — h. Steamboats from England. — i. Landing on the Continent ; Custom-houses and Commissionaires. — k. British Custom-house; Transmis- sion of Goods from the Continent to England.—-]. Inns and Innkeepers. — m. English Church on the Continent. — n. A few Skeleton Tours. — o. Tables of the Relative Value of the Money of Germany compared with that of Eng- land and France. a. MAXIMS AND HINTS FOR TRAVELLING. " Travel in the younger sort is a part of education ; in the elder, a part of experience. He that travelleth into a country before he hath some en- trance into the language, goeth to school and not to travel. That young men travel under some tutor, or grave servant, I allow well ; so that he he such a one that hath the language, and hath been in the country before ; whereby he may be able to tell them what things are worthy to be seen in the country where they go, what acquaintances they are to seek, what exercise or discipline the place yieldeth ; for else young men shall go hooded, and look abroad little. The things to be seen and observed are the courts of princes, especially when they give audience to ambassadors ; the courts of justice while they sit and hear causes ; and so of consistories ecclesiastic ; the churches and monasteries, with the monuments which are therein extant ; the walls and fortifications of cities and towns- : and so the havens and harbours, antiquities and ruins, libraries, colleges, disputa- tions, and lectures, where any are ; shipping and navies ; houses and gar- dens of state and pleasure near great cities ; armouries, arsenals, magazines, exchanges, burses, warehouses ; exercises of horsemanship, fencing, train- ing of soldiers, and the like ; comedies, such whereunto the better sort of persons do resort ; treasuries of jewels and robes ; cabinets and rarities ; and, to conclude, whatsoever is memorable in the places where they gO' ; after all which the tutors or servants ought to make diligent inquiry. As for triumphs, masks, feasts, weddings, funerals, capital executions, and such shows, men need not to be put in mind of them ; yet are they not to be neglected. If you will have a young man to put his travel into a little room, and in a short time to gather much, this you must do : first, as was said, he must have some entrance into the language before he goeth ; then he must have such a servant or tutor as knoweth the country, as was a S ' X a. MAXIMS AND HINTS likewise said : let him carry with him also some card or book describing the country where he travelleth, which will be a good key to his inquiry ; let him keep also a diary ; let him not stay long in one city or town — more or less as the place deserveth, but not long ; nay, when he stayeth in one city or town, let him change his lodging from one end and part of the town to another, which is a great adamant of acquaintance ; let him sequester himself from the company of his countrymen, and diet in such places where there is good company of the nation where he travelleth ; let him, upon his removes from one place to another, procure recommenda- tion to some person of quality residing in the place whither he removeth, that he may use his favour in those things he desireth to see or* know — thus he may abridge his travel with much profit. As for the acquaintance which is to be sought in travel, that which is most of all profitable is acquaintance with the secretaries and employed men of ambassadors ; for so in travelling in one country he shall suck the experience of many : let him also see and visit eminent persons in all kinds which are of great name abroad, that he may be able to tell how the life agreeth with the fame : for quarrels, they are with care and discretion to be avoided ; they are commonly for mistresses, healths, place, and words ; and let a man beware how he keepeth company with choleric and quarrelsome persons, for they will engage him into their own quarrels. When a traveller returneth home, let him not leave the countries where he hath travelled altogether behind him ; but maintain a correspondence by letters with those of his acquaintance which are of most worth : and let his travel appear rather in his discourse than in his apparel or gesture ; and in his discourse let him be rather advised in his answers than forward to tell stories : and let it appear that he doth not change his country manners for those of foreign parts, but only prick in some flowers of that he hath learned abroad into the customs of his own country." — Lord Bacon. Essays, XIX. 11 Ours is a nation of travellers ; and no wonder, when the elements, air, water, fire, attend at our bidding, to transport us from shore to shore ; when the ship rushes into the deep, her track the foam as of some mighty torrent, and, in three hours or less, we stand gazing and gazed at among a foreign people. None want an excuse. If rich, they go to enjoy ; if poor, to retrench ; if sick, to recover ; if studious, to learn ; if learned, to relax from their studies. But whatever they may say, whatever they may believe, they go for the most part on the same errand ; nor will those who reflect think that errand an idle one. " Almost all men are over-anxious. No sooner do they enter the world than they lose that taste for natural and simple pleasures, so remarkable in early life. Every hour do they ask themselves what progress they have made in the pursuit of wealth or honour ; and on they go as their fathers went before them, till, weary and sick at heart, they look back with a sigh of regret to the golden time of their childrfood. " Now travel, and foreign travel more particularly, restores to us in a great degree what we have lost. When the anchor is heaved, we double down the leaf, and for a while at least all effort is over. The old cares are left clustering round the old objects, and at every step, as we proceed, FOR TRAVELLING. XI the slightest circumstance amuses and interests. All is new and strange. We surrender ourselves, and feel once again as children. Like them, we enjoy eagerly ; like them, when we fret, we fret only for the moment : and here the resemblance is very remarkable ; for if a journey has its pains as well as its pleasures (and there is nothing unmixed in the world), the pains are no sooner over than they are forgotten, while the pleasures live long in the memory. " Nor is it surely without another advantage. If life be short, not so to many of us are its days and its hours. When the blood slumbers in the veins, how often do we wish that the earth would turn faster on its axis, that the sun would rise and set before it does, and, to escape from the weight of time, how many follies, how many crimes are committed ! Men rush on danger, and even on death. Intrigue, play, foreign and domestic broil, such are their resources ; and, when these things fail, they destroy themselves. " Now, in travelling, we multiply events, and innocently. We set out, as it were, on our adventures ; and many are those that occur to us, morning, noon, and night. The day we come to a place which we have long heard and read of, — and in Italy we do so continually, — it is an era in our lives ; and from that moment the very name calls up a picture. How delightfully, too, does the knowledge flow in upon us, and how fast !' Would he who sat in a corner of his library, poring over his books and maps, learn more or so much in the time, as he who, with his eyes and his heart open, is receiving impressions all day long from the things them- selves? How accurately do they arrange themselves in our memory,— towns, rivers, mountains ; and in what living colours do we recai the dresses, manners, and customs of the people ! Our sight is the noblest of all our senses, — ' It fills the mind with most ideas, converses with its objects at the greatest distance, and continues longest in action without being tired.' Our sight is on the alert when we travel ; and its exercise is then so delightful that we forget the profit in the pleasure. " Like a river that gathers, that refines as it runs, — like a spring that takes its course through some rich vein of mineral, — we improve, and im- perceptibly — nor in the head only, but in the heart. Our prejudices leave us one by one. Seas and mountains are no longer oxir boundaries ; we learn to love, and esteem, and admire beyond them. Our benevolence extends itself with our knowledge. And must we not return better citizens than we went ? For the more we become acquainted with the in- stitutions of other countries, the more highly must we value our own." — Samuel Rogers* " Even of those who wish to profit by travelling there are many who do not sufficiently consider that, to see and hear with understanding, they should come provided with some other stores besides a purse and a pass- port ; and that one who is unacquainted with the language, history, and geography of the country through which he is passing, is as incapable of gaining information from intercourse with foreigners as if he were deaf or dumb. ' Necesse est facere sumptum qui quserit lucrum ;' or, as Johnson has well said, ' A man must carry knowledge with him, if he would bring home knowledge.' " — /. W. — Quarterly Review. Xli a. MAXIMS AND HINTS " The enjoyment of travelling, like other pleasures, must be purchased at some little expense ; and he whose good humour can be ruffled by every petty inconvenience he may chance to encounter had unquestionably better remain at home." — Captain Hamilton. "■ Travelling may be said to be a state of great pleasure mixed with great annoyance ; but by management the former may be much increased, and the latter proportionably diminished. " Wherever you are, it is good to fall into the customs and habits of the place ; for though sometimes they may be a little inconvenient, it is gene- rally much more so to run counter to them. Those who have their own way never succeed but at much greater cost than success is worth." — Walker's Original. (i One of the greatest annoyances in travelling is continual exposure to imposition ; but this may, by good management, be frequently avoided, either altogether or in part, as by bad management it may be greatly in- creased. f Tweed stuff are very suitable. A frock-coat is better than that pet dress of juvenile Englishmen — a shooting jacket, which, though well enough in remote places, is strange, and will attract notice, in the streets of a foreign town. A very serviceable article in a traveller's wardrobe is a Blouse (Kittel in German), somewhat resembling a ploughman's smock-frock in England, but by no means confined to the lower orders abroad, as it is a common travelling costume of nobles, gentles, and peasants. It may be worn either over the usual dress, to keep it clean and free from dust, or it may be substituted for the coat in hot weather. This kind of garment may be purchased ready-made in any German town. The best colour is brown ; blue is usually worn by agricultural labourers only. The common light great- coat now worn in England, or even a shooting-jacket, is perhaps even preferable to the blouse. A knapsack maybe purchased at a much cheaper rate abroad, and on a much better plan, than those made in England. Portmanteaus are better in England than anywhere else. The dimensions admitted in the French mails are, 27 inches in length, 15 in breadth, and 13 in height ; which a traveller bound for France will do well to remember. Soap is indispensable, being a rare article in Continental inns. A water- proof Macintosh life-preserver may be useful in some situations. A flask, to hold brandy and kirschwasser, is necessary on mountain excursions : it should be remembered, however, that spirits ought to be resorted to less as a restorative than as a protection against cold and wet, and to mix with water, which ought never to be drunk cold or unmixed during a walk. The best restorative is tea, and it can be procured good in Holland, and in most of the large towns of Germany. Carey, optician, 181, Strand, makes excellent pocket Telescopes, about four inches long, combining, with a small size, considerable power and an extensive range. Black glass spectacles are the best protection for the eyes against the glare of the sun in a southern climate. Spectacles are almost indispensable in railway travelling, for those who ride in 3rd class carriages, to protect the eyes from dust and cinders. A very neat portable writing-case is made by Lee, 440, W. Strand, who keeps also polyglot washing-books in 7 or 8 languages. A stout leather or canvas bag, to hold silver crown-pieces and dollars ; — cards, adhesive labels, pieces of parchment or leather for writing directions for the baggage (the managers of public conveyances abroad often insist upon each package being addressed before they will take charge of it) : — and one or two leather straps, to keep together small parcels, will be found very useful. lb. STEAMBOATS FEOM ENGLAND TO THE CONTINENT, *** Berths may be secured in the steamers belonging to the General Steam Navigation Company; but they should be taken some time beforehand, and notice thereof should be sent to the captain of the vessel by the clerk of the office, and information may be obtained respecting them at the offices, 60, b2 XXV111 I. LANDING — CUSTOM-HOUSES — COMMISSIONAIRES. Lombard Street, and 37, Regent Circus, Piccadilly. Passengers are requested to have ail the packages composing their baggage distinctly marked with their names, and to take the whole on board with them. Baggage is not subject to examination on quitting London, but remains in the custody and under the con- trol of the persons to whom it belongs, and the Company is not liable for any damage or loss of it, nor for unavoidable delays or accidents, nor sea risks of any kind whatsoever. Travellers arriving from the country in London, to start by steam early in the morning, will find the hotels adjacent to London Bridge convenient night quarters. For further particulars see the printed advertisement of the General Steam Navigation Company, the Belgian Company, the Dutch Company (Batavier), the Commercial Company (Southampton). Carriages, horses, and baggage, being the bona fide property of passengers from Hamburg and Havre, landed free of expense in London : Carriages and horses, being the bona fide property of passengers going to Hamburg and Havre, shipped free of expense in London. Carriages (properly directed) and horses for embarkation from London must be sent in charge of proper persons, as follows : — for Hamburg and Havre, to Custom-house Quay, Lower Thames Street, by 12 o'clock on the day previous to the departure of the packets ; for Antwerp and Rotterdam, to Brunswick Wharf, Blackwall ; and for Ostend, Calais, and Bou- logne, to London Bridge Wharf — two hours previous to the departure of the packets. I. LANDING ON THE CONTINENT — CUSTOM-HOUSES — COMMISSIONAIEES. When the steamboat reaches its destined port, the shore is usually beset by a crowd of clamorous agents from the different hotels, each vociferating the name and praises of that for which he is employed, stunning the dis- tracted stranger with their cries, and nearly scratching his face with their proffered cards. The only mode of rescuing himself from these tormentors, who often beset him a dozen at a time, is to make up his mind beforehand to what hotel he will go, and to name it at once. The Agent or Commis- sionaire of the house then steps forward, and the rest fall back, while he takes the new arrival under his protection, extricates him from the throng, and conducts him to his quarters. Passengers are not allowed to take their baggage on shore with them ; it is conveyed at once from the vessel to the Custom-house by the Custom- house porters, who are answerable for the safety of everything. The owner, instead of appearing himself to claim it, had better send his servant, or the Commissionaire of the inn, intrusting him with the keys, in order that he may open and clear each package. This is his usual duty, and the landlord of the inn, who employs him, is answerable for his honesty. Personal attendance at a Custom-house is by no means calculated to put the traveller in good humour. Indeed, it is a severe trial to his patience, first to wait till his turn comes, amidst the elbowing of porters, and next to look on while his well-packed trunk is tossed over " with a cruel, hard- hearted sort of civility which leaves nothing to complain of, and everything to lament." Indeed, the search into the baggage is often more severe in the presence of the traveller, which seems sometimes to give rise to a sus- picion of smuggling. He that would keep his temper, and does not grudge a fee of two francs to the Commissionaire, will intrust to him his" keys, and, dismissing the care of his baggage from his thoughts, amuse himself k. BRITISH CUSTOM-HOUSE. xxix for an hour or so, when he will probably find his effects conveyed to his chamber, very often not opened at all, generally only slightly examined. If, however, the baggage contain any contraband articles, it is advisable to declare them beforehand, and to pay the duty. " Those who would travel with comfort should be particularly on their guard against rendering themselves liable to detention or penalty at the foreign Custom-houses. They should avoid taking anything which is contraband, either for themselves or for their friends ; for it too often happens that travellers on the Continent are meanly solicited to take those things for their friends who are abroad which they dare not send by the public conveyance, thus rendering their travelling friends liable to penalty and punishment. This is more strikingly the case where they are requested to take letters, for which public conveyances are provided : in this case they suffer their friends to run a great risk for the sake of saving the postage. Such conduct is most unpardonable." — Brockedon, The next service the Commissionaire will perform is, to obtain the signature of the police for the traveller's passport, so as to enable him to proceed on his journey. Travellers of respectability are scarcely ever- required now, as they were formerly, to repair in person to the police office to obtain a signature for the passport. The passport should be the traveller's first care ; indeed, until it is vise, he is, comparatively speaking, not a free agent. k. BRITISH CUSTOM-HOUSE — TRANSMISSION OF GOODS FROM THE CONTINENT. In England the right of personal search exists only where the Custom- house officer has good cause to suspect that contraband goods are concealed about the person. The suspected individual may call upon a justice of the peace, or a comptroller of the Customs, to decide whether the suspicion is well founded. Travellers who send works of art, or other valuable property, from the Continent to London, should consign them to the care of an agent at the Custom-house in London, as such articles are frequently injured and need- less expense incurred from want of a person to take charge of them when they arrive, and to see them examined, entered, and properly repacked. The charge is the same whether the goods are so consigned or not. The Author of the Handbook has employed Mr. Chinnery, of Thames Street, London, on such business, and has found him attentive and trustworthy. Mr. Chinnery has licence from the Commissioners of Customs to act as agent for receiving and despatching goods, and has given bond to the amount of 1000?. for the safety of property intrusted to him. Messrs. M'Cracken and Co., 7, Old Jewry, London, are long-established and highly trustworthy agents, and have a very large list of foreign corre- spondents, especially in Italy. Messrs. Lightly and Simon, 123, Fen- church Street, may also be mentioned. For lists of foreign correspondents, see the advertiser at the end of this volume. N.B. — Goods must be examined when they arrive in London, therefore pack- ages that are locked should have the keys attached. XXX /. INNS AND INNKEEPERS. L INNS AND INNKEEPEKS. Foreign innkeepers desirous of attracting English travellers to their houses, by studying the wants and wishes of their guests, will do well to attend to the following notes- of information, which ought to be hung up by innkeepers on the walls of every coffee-room for travellers : — " Prices of all Articles supplied by the Hotel. Meals: — Table-d'hdte — Wines — Baths^ — Carriages, &c. " Public Conveyances* Mails — their time of Starting — Price to various Places — Time of Arrival — Diligences, ditto — Steamboats, ditto— Other Boats, ditto — Printed Papers of Steam-packets to England and down the Rhine — Fiacres* " There ought to be hung up on the walls a Map of the town, if there is one — Map of the adjacent country — Map of the kingdom. A Directory of the town, if published, should always be kept in the coffee-room. " Distinct compartments on the walls should be secured for different advertisements, affiches, &c. In large cities, lists of theatres and operas^ Every hotel ought to have in the hall, or where the keys are kept, a large board with the numbers of each apartment, and a space opposite, in which the name of the occupier is written. The best hotels have this, and it is a very great convenience to enable travellers to discover their friends. A book is of little use, because it is never kept up to the time. " If the card of the hotel has printed on its reverse a small map of the town, with a dark spot for the hotel, it is extremely useful. " Every steamer or other boat ought to have hung up in it the tariff of prices. This is rarely omitted (except on the Lake of Geneva), and, when omitted, travellers always suppose they are charged higher than the natives. " Steamboats ought also to be furnished with printed lists of the time of starting of mails and diligences from the points at which they stop. " Many hotels, on the Rhine and elsewhere, charge a single traveller (who supped in the coffee-room and slept one night) a franc for wax candles. This is not to be admitted, unless he have a private sitting- room. I have never paid it, finding it immediately withdrawn on remon- strance. If travellers will not resist, they will be compelled to pay it on the plea of custom. " It is the interest of every hotel-keeper to supply his guests with information relative to the modes of leaving him : this renders their return more probable/' — Charles Puller* Caution to Innkeepers and others. — A person or persons have of late been extorting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others on the Continent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable notices of them and their establishments in the Handbooks for Travellers. The Editor, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that recommendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by purchase, and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are totally unknown to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such promises may rest assured that they will be defrauded of their money without attaining their object. — 1841. The characters of inns, good and bad, inserted in the Handbook, are- given either from personal knowledge or upon unexceptionable authority m. ENGLISH CHURCH ON THE CONTINENT. XXXL of travellers whose names and residences are known to the Editor. Where the objections stated in this hook no longer exist, and where a positive improvement has taken place, the Editor is always ready to listen to respectable and well-authenticated testimony, and to remove in future editions the condemnatory epithets or passages. Thus he hopes to stimu- late to exertion and amendment, to protect travellers from neglect and imposition, and to do justice to deserving innkeepers. Ml. ENGLISH CHURCH ON THE CONTINENT. An interesting and useful little book (price 2s. Gd.) has been compiled by the Rev. G. E. Biber, and published by the Messrs. Rivington, in Waterloo Place, giving " An Account of the Foreign Settlements of the English Church, including a Notice of the times of Service, and other information useful to Travellers and Foreign Residents." It will be seen that there is an English minister and congregation in very many of the principal towns included in this Handbook. Most of these ministers officiate under a licence from the Bishop of London. In one or two cases they derive a portion of their income from an allowance made by the home or some foreign government ; but, except in these cases, the income of the minister, and the funds necessary for the services of the church, and for obtaining a place for public worship, are dependent upon the voluntary payments of English residents and travellers. ( xxxii ) n. A FEW SKELETON TOURS UPON THE CONTINENT ; WITH AN APPROXIMATE STATEMENT OF THE TIME REQUIRED TO TRAVEL FROM PLACE TO PLACE, AND OF THE DURATION OF THE HALTS TO BE MADE AT THE MOST REMARKABLE SPOTS. ^** The first Column denotes the Hours or Days actually occupied in Travelling, not including stoppages at night. The second Column gives the probable duration of the Halts to be made for sight-seeing. The brackets [ ] denote side excursions, which may be omitted if time require it. A. — Tour through Holland. About a Fortnight or three Weeks. Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. From London to Rotter- dam . Delft Hague . Leiden . Haarlem Alkmaar . Helder . Medemblick Broek Saardam . Amsterdam , Utrecht . . 25 3 I 1 4, 8 9 8 2 1 n Arnhem ..... If JNijmegen .... 2 Rotterdam ..... 8 (By steam-boat.). or 3 i 4 B. — London to the Borders of Switzerland, through Belgium AND UP THE RmiNE. A Tour of about six weeks, allowing ample time to see all that is most re- markable by the way.. Hours in Days of London to Ostend by Dover .... Bruges . . . Ghent . , , Antwerp ., .. ,. Mechlin , . t Brussels . . . Waterloo. . . Kamur or Huy Travelling* Sojousa. 9 1 X 2 2 1 o-l 14 1 or 2 2 or 3, [Excursion to Dinant and the grotto of Hans. 2 days to go and re- turn.] Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn » Liege . . . [Spa .... Aix-Ia-Chapelle ): Cologne ... } [Altenberg and back Bonn, and . . Godesberg . , [Lake of Laach Coblenz . . . St. Goar . . . Bacharaeh . . Bingen . . . Riidesheim . . Mayence . . [Wiesbaden. . Frankfurt . . Darmstadt . . [Odenwald . . Heidelberg . . Carlsruhe . . Baden Strasburg Freiburg Schaffhausen 5 3 3* 2* 9 4 9 6 3 1 2 W 2 2 a 2" 3 12 or 14 or 2 ji & $1 2 T ] Z 2 or 1^- 2 n 2 x The excursions through Switzerland are given in Handbook for Switzer^ LAND. Return from Switaerland to London down the Rhine. Basel to Frankfurt (Railroad) Frankfurt to Cologne . . Cologne to Ostend .... Hours, > 14 , 12 . 13 71. SKELETON TOURS. XXX1U C. — A Tour of about 45 Days through Belgium, Rhenish Prussia, and Nassau. The asterisk (*) marks the number of nights to be passed at a place. }• Hours in Travelling. By Steam-boat to Ostend 15 Bruges ) *d Ghent [r| 5 Brussels j p^ Waterloo ) A Namur j Huy Liege Spa 3 Malmedi .... 5 Treves 9 Descent of Moselle . 10 Coblenz St. Goar 1 Bacharach > . . . 5 Bingen Riidesheim \ n Mayence J Frankfurt (Railrd.) Wiesbaden . Schwalbach . . . Ems Coblenz 2 Andernach .... 2 [Excursion to Laacher See Remagen .... 3 [Excursion up the Ahr 10 Godesberg [Excursion to Friesdorf — Drachenfels — Heisterbach Bonn Cologne 2 2 6 5] 1 1 10* Aix-la-Cha pelle Liege Louvain Malines Antwerp London ..... 25 T3 Nights to be passed. 1* H 2 4 day] *] *-* ** Distances in Eng. miles don to Frankfurt, by Antwerp, and Ostend. London Brielle to Brielle . . to Rotterdam . from Lon- Rottcrdam, Miles. 180 20 Rotterdam to Emmerich . — to Hague 12 — to Amster- dam 40 Emmerich to Diisseldorf 111 200 Diisseldorf to Cologne. — to Elberfeld, Cologne Bonn to Bonn i to Coblenz 20 73| 81* 20^ 45| 1841 Coblenz to Boppart Boppart to Caub Caub to Bingen . Bingen to Bieberich Bieberich to Wiesbaden 3~ — to Mayence , 3 16} i4 Mayence London Flushing to Frankfurt 22 to Mannheim46| to Flushing to Antwerp 163 6Q Antwerp Liege to Brussels 26* to Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle Aix-la-Chapelle to Diisseldorf \ to Cologne / London Ostend to Ostend . to Ghent to Brussels to Liege . 44| 30* Brussels to Liege 67. 97£ 59* 541 5 229 62 28 431 362i 136 124 260 b 3 XXXiV 71. SKELETON TOUES. D. — London to Frankfurt and Basle. (By Steam all the way.) By avoiding all stoppages, except to sleep at night, it is possible to reach Frankfurt on the 3rd night from London. Hours in going. 9 To Ostend Cologne 13 Coblenz 7 Mayence 7 Frankfurt (Railway) .... 1| Basle (Railway) . .... 14 E. — London to Trieste. The quickest way from London to the centre of Germany, to Berlin, Leipzig, Dresden, Prague, or even Vienna and Trieste, is as follows : — Hours. London to Ostend by Dover ..... 9 Cologne Magdebtng [Berlin Leipzig Dresden Prague Vienna Laibach Trieste Another Route is, London to Hamburg by steamer [Magdeburg ] > . . Berlin V% . . Dresden Ph . . 13 19 13 20 13 52 8 9 6 Berlin is connected with Vienna by 2 lines of railway. The shortest is by Dresden and Prague, as above, 27 hrs. The other takes 30 hrs., viz. — Breslau 11 Ratibor , . . 6 Vienna 13 -London to Munich, Salzburg, and Vienna. Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. 38 J7, 2or 3 ) U >™ [ in B. 7 . . 1 To Frankfurt . . . Heidelberg (Railroad) Heilbronn . . . Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn, Stuttgart (Railroad) . If . . 1 Ulm (Railroad) . . 4 . . 1 Augsburg . . . . 7£ . . * several weeks. Munich (Railroad) . . 2 j Salzburg . . . . 15 j , -. Hallein ~\ excur- > ■, Berchtesgaden j sions. Ischl 6£ . . 4 Traunsee and Fall ) -, Q f 1 Linz ..../' 1A ' • 1 1 By Danube to Vienna .9 . . — G. — London to Strasburg and Mu- nich, by Wurzburg, Nuremberg, and the Danube. Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn, To Frankfurt, as in D . 38 "Wurzburg . . . .13 Nuremberg . . . .12 Ratisbon . . . . .13 Linz Ybj steam down f 1 2 Vienna) the Danube \ 9 From Linz to the Falls of the Traun, the Lake of Gmun- den, and Ischl . . 12 Salzburg ..... •» Munich . . . . . I as in F Heidelberg . . . . ) England by the Rhine as in B. 3 or 4 H. — London to Dresden, the Saxon Switzerland, Baths. and Bohemian Hours in Travelling Days of Sojourn- To Frankfurt as in D . 38 Cassel ...... 13 Eisenach Gotha Erfurt > Railway 6 Weimar Leipzig Dresden (Railway). . [Excursion to Saxon Switzerland, 2 or 3 days.] Teplitz 8 Carlsbad 13 Prague 17 Vienna 15 Or from Prague to Linz 28| 3*10 or 14 n. SKELETON TOURS. XXXV !.- Another Route from Dresden. Hrs. in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. Dresden [Excursion to Saxon Swit- zerland, 3 or 4 days.] Ilorrnhut and Zittau (Railroad) ... 4 . . — [Excursion to the Riesenge targe and thence to Prague, 4 or 5 days.] Prague — Carlsbad 13 Marienbad .... 5 Eger and Franzensbad 3 Alexandersbad ... 4 [Excursion to the Fichtelge- birge and thence to Bai- rcuth, 2 or 3 days.] [Excursion to Franconian Switzerland and thence to Bamberg, 3 days.] Bamberg .... — Kissingen and Briick- enau 12 Frankfurt .... 16 K. -Sketch of a Second Tour in the Neighbourhood of the Rhine by less frequented Routes, in- tknded for such as are already acquainted with Routes A and B. Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. London to Calais ... 5 Ypres 6 Touraay 5 Mons Namur Dinant 9± Z 2 Luxemburg 3 3 14 4 Treves Descent of Moselle to Coblenz . . . 12 Excursions ... — Bingen 6 Kreuznach and Ober- stein 8 Alzei and Mont Ton- nerre 6 Kaiserslautern . . . ) Landstuhl . . . > 8 Durkkeim . . J Landau 8 1 or 2 Hours n Davs of Tra veiling. Sojourn. , Annweilcr and back . 1 I 4 i • • 3 Carlsruhc .... G 1 as in f B. Strasburg .... 3 Ban do la Roche and 2 days. Over the Knicbis to Tii bingen 12 hours. Stuttgart .... 3 . . 3 Ileilbronn .... 2 . . a| Descent of Neckar 8 . , — Erbach, in the Oden- 8 , . — - Fraidtfurt .... 8 . , — Taunus Mountains to Limburg .... 8 . . i§ Siegburg .... 11 3 .• . — L. — Paris to St. Petersburg in 7 DAYS. Brussels 12 hrs. Amsterdam . . . . 14 Hamburg .... 36 Liibeck 6 St. Petersburg by steam, 4 or 5 days. M. — What may be done in Three Weeks, travelling by public convey- ance, and now and then at night, and halting on Sundays. Hours in Days. Travelling. 1 London to Ostend, by Dover 2 | Bruges (Ghent ( Ghent [ Antwerp 4 Antwerp r (Antwerp [Brussels 6 Brussels and Waterloo 7 By Charleroi and the Mouse to Liege — Railway . . ft (Aix-la-Chapclle . . ) (>>_; *\ to Cologne. . j^ 'g qjCologno {Coblenz I Coblenz, Ehrenbreitstein, &c St. Goai- is ■I 11 4 4 XXXVI n. SKELETON TOURS. Hours in Days. Travelling. 11 To Riidesheim, seeing Rheinstein and the Niederwald 12 12 To Wiesbaden 8 13 To Frankfurt 2 14 To Heidelberg (Railroad) . . 3 ..-(Heidelberg — 1& t To Mannheim £ 16 By steam to Cologne ... 14 17 Railroad to Ostend . . . . 13 1 8 Ostend to London .... 9 Four days more would enable the traveller to include Baden and Stras- burg. This route here laid down would give a traveller the opportunity of seeing several most interesting cities and much fine scenery — though of course they could not be explored thoroughly in such a flying visit. A great many of our countrymen, having no fixed plan to travel by, seem only to calculate how far from home they can go in a limited time, and are con- tented with what they can see from the deck of the steamer and the window of the diligence. They would be much more gratified were they to portion out their time somewhat in the manner indicated above. N.- -London to Milan by Strasburg and the splugen pass. Hours in Days of Travelling. Sojourn. To Paris 12 . . 2 Strasburg (by railway and malleposte) . . 30 . . — Schaffhausen . . . 16 . . — ■ Zurich 5 . . — Coire (across the lakes of Zurich and Wallenstadt) . . 15 . . — Splugen 7 . . — Milan (daily diligence) 21 . . — Care should be taken by the travel- ler, on arriving in Paris, to secure at once his own passport in exchange for his passe provisoire. N.B. A passport which has once re- ceived the signature of the Ministres de rinterieuret des Affaires Etrangeres at Paris is not liable to be taken away at the frontier on re-entering France. (See Handbook for France.) 0. — London to Naples. Hours on the way. To Paris by Folkestone and Boulogne 11 Chalons-sur-Saone by rail- way 9 Lyons by steam .... 8 Avignon by steam . . . 13 Marseilles by railway . . 3 Genoa 1 1" c^ M - r 32 Leghorn s > ? S S * * -2 CivitaVecchia f £|,>l * ) Naples J £§-3:3 26 This journey is practicable in 7 days. -London to Constantinople and Athens, down the Danube. Days in Travelling. London to Frankfurt by Ostend and Cologne . . Frankfurt to Ratisbon . Ratisbon by steam down the Danube to Vienna . . =3 „• [ Vienna to eg J Pest 1 day 3 c < Orsova 4 9X 1st | 4th 7th 10th a - . 2 e ■"■ o si * | I G-alatz 3 ffl* [Constantinople 2i Constantinople to Smyrna, by steam every week. Athens, every week. The most agreeable way of reaching Constantinople or Athens, at present, is by the Austrian Lloyd Steamers from Trieste. Steamers leave Trieste — for Constantinople, by way of Corfu, Syra, Smyrna, &c, every Thursday — for Athens, by Ancona, Brindisi, Corfu, Patras, Lutraki, and by carriages across the Isthmus to Calimaki n. SKELETON TOURS. XXXV11 Table of Time taken in travel- ling from London to various Places on the Continent. (Exclusive of delays in waiting for public conveyance, steamers, &c.) Hours. Cologne by Ostend . . . .22 Frankfurt by Ostend and Co- logne 38 by Rotterdam and up the Rhine 71 Berlin by Ostend and Cologne . 45^ by Hamburg (steamer) . 61 Dresden by Magdeburg ... 48 by Frankfurt . . .61 Munich by Frankfurt and Hei- delberg 63 by Strasburg and Hei- delberg 68 Vienna by Frankfurt and Ratis- bon, and thence down the Danube 97 by Ostend, Magdeburg, and Dresden (railway) . .69 Pest by Dresden and Vienna (railway) 80 Trieste by Dresden and Vienna 102* Marseilles 44 Paris by Folkestone and Bou- logne f 11 Hours. Paris by Brighton, Dieppe, and Rouen 20 Strasburg by Paris . . . .42 by Frankfurt . . .46 Days. Belgrade fby Pest (rhvy.), g n & . ,. i <& thence down 10 Constantinople^ Danube , 12 Copenhagen 2^ St. Petersburg by Berlin and Stettin, and thence by steamer 5 by Liibeck . 6 or 7 Warsaw by Breslau (railway) . 3^ Cracow by Breslau (railway) . 3 Stockholm 4 or 5 Geneva 2 Milan by Lyons and Geneva . by Zurich and the Splii- gen ........ Venice by Dresden, Vienna, and Trieste by Munich and the Tyrol by Lyons,. Geneva, and 44 4i 4-1 Milan by Zurich, the Spliigen, and Milan 5 £ Rome by Marseilles . . . . 5£ Naples by Marseilles .... 6 * When the railways over the Semmering, and the line from Laibach, are completed, Trieste may be reached in 94 hours ; and, if the Austrians should accelerate the speed of their trains, in 84. *#* Those among the above routes which belong to Southern Germany are described in the second Volume of the Handbook, found in the Handbook for Switzerland. The Swiss routes will be ( xxxix ) Table A. To reduce KRONTHALERS (Dollars of Brabant, or Crowns) to Florins. K.T. PI. Kr. K. T. Fl. Kr. K.T. Fl. Kr. 1 2 42 36 97 12 71 191 42 2 5 24 37 99 54 72 194 24 3 8 6 38 102 36 73 197 6 4 10 48 39 105 18 74 199 48 5 13 30 40 108 — 75 202 30 6 16 12 41 110 42 76 205 12 7 18 54 42 113 24 77 207 54 8 21 36 43 116 6 78 210 36 9 24 18 44 118 48 79 213 18 10 27 — 45 121 30 80 216 — 11 29 42 46 124 12 81 218 42 12 32 24 47 126 54 82 221 24 13 35 6 48 129 36 83 224 6 14 37 48 49 132 18 84 226 48 15 40 30 50 135 — 85 229 30 16 43 12 51 137 42 86 232 12 17 45 54 52 140 24 87 234 54 18 48 36 53 143 6 88 237 36 19 51 18 54 145 48 89 240 18 20 54 — 55 148 30 90 243 — 21 56 42 56 151 12 91 245 42 22 59 24 57 153 54 92 248 24 23 62 6 58 156 36 93 251 6 24 64 48 59 159 18 94 253 48 25 67 30 60 162 — 95 256 30 26 70 12 61 164 42 96 259 12 27 72 54 62 167 24 97 261 54 28 75 36 63 170 6 98 264 36 29 78 18 64 172 48 99 267 18 30 81 — 65 175 30 100 270 — 31 83 42 66 178 12 101 272 42 32 86 24 67 180 54 102 275 24 33 89 6 68 183 36 103 278 6 34 91 48 69 186 18 104 280 48 35 94 30 70 189 — 105 283 30 ( xl ) Table B. English Money reduced to an equivalent Value in the English Money. Hamburg, l Saxony. 2 Prussia. 2 £. s. d. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 10 2 3 4 5 6 •0 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 10 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 20 30 40 50 Mar. 1 2 3 4 5 6 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 12 13 14 15 16 17 34 51 68 85 102 120 137 154 171 342 514 685 857 Sch. M 2f 3| 44 ? 9* lOf 113 124 13f U J ?4 6 J 9 13f llf 9* 69 4f 2f 13f 11| 9} 9f 2f q 6f 9} llf 13f . 22 4| 61 13f 44 ^7 113 92 Th. 1 1 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 4 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 6 13 20 26 33 40 46 53 60 66 133 200 266 333 G. Gr. o§ n 2 2§ 4 4§ H 6 6^ 7 1 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16- 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 16 8 Th. 1 1 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 4 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 6 13 20 26 33 40 46 53 60 66 133 200 266 333 S. Gr. % H n 4 1 ? 9 G i 3 8 J 10 6 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 20 10 1 16 Hamburg Shillings — to 1 Marc. 2 24 Good Groschen or 30 Silver Groschen = to 1 Thaler. 3 60 Kreutzers = to 1 Florin. 4 20 Stivers = to 1 Guilder. 5 100 Venetian Cents = to 1 Lira. ( xli ) Table B. Money of various States on the Continent of Europe. Austria. 3 Fl. 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 9 9 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 200 300 400 500 Kr. 2± 5" '2 10 12± 15 17 1 20 22f 25 27| 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 Frankfurt.3 Bavaria. Fl. 1 1 2 3 3 4 4 5 6 6 7 7 8 9 9 10 10 11 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 120 240 360 480 600 Kr. 3 6 9 12 15 18 21 24 27 30 33 36 12 48 24 36 12 48 24 36 12 48 24 36 12 48 24 Holland. 4 Gui. 1 1 2 3 3 4 4 5 6 6 7 7 8 9 9 10 10 11 12 24 36 48 60 72 84 96 108 120 240 360 480 600 Stiv. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 4 16 8 12 4 16 8 12 4 16 8 12 4 16 8 Venetian Lombardy.5 Lira. 1 1 1 1 1 3 4 6 7 9 10 12 13 15 16 18 19 21 22 24 25 27 28 30 60 90 120 150 180 210 240 270 300 600 900 1200 1500 Cts. 12i 25 37^ 50 62| 75 87| 12* 25 37| 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 France. 6 Fr. 1 1 1 2 3 5 6 7 8 10 11 12 13 15 16 17 18 20 21 22 23 25 50 75 100 125 150 175 200 225 250 500 750 1000 1250 6 100 French Cents = to 1 Franc. If more be received for a pound sterling than is expressed on this scale, it will be so much gain by the exchange ; if less, it will be so much loss. (This is not for the use of merchants, but travellers.) ( m ) Table C. PEUSSIAN MONEY, Reduced to its Value at par in the Money of 'S«i-'3 Saxony. Frankfurt, Nassau, France. Switzerland. England. Prussian I)< courant o Silver Gros< Rix-Dollars Bavaria, fyc. Francs Francs of Pound Sterling of of 24 Good Groschen. Florins of 60 Kreutzers. containing 100 Centimes. 10 Batz. 20 Shillings, or 240 Pence. Th. G. Rt. Gros. Fl. Kr. Fr. C. Fr. B. £. s. d. — 1 — 16 2T — 3i — 12 — ->8 li — 2 — i« ■ — 7 — 25 — 1,7 2| — 3 — 2|r — I0i — 37 — 2,5 3i — 4 — U 2T — 14' — 49 — 3,3 4| — . 5 — H\ — 17 A — 62 — 4,2 5| — 6 — 4.12 2T — 21 — 74 — 5,- 7 — 7 — °2T — 24i — 87 — 5,8 8i — 8 — 6- 2 - 21 — 28" — - 99 — 6,7 9i — 9 — D 2T — 31| 1 11. — 7,5 10i — 10 — 713 21 — 35 1 23 — 8,3 112 — 20 — 15| T 1 10 2 46 1 6,6 1 Hi 1 22f 1 45 3 69 2 4,9 2 11 2 — 1 21f 3 30 7 39 4 9,9 5 10 3 — 2 20| 5 15 11 8 7 4,8 8 9 4 — 3 19f 7 — 14 78 9 9,7 11 8 5 — 4 181 8 45 18 47 12 4,7 14 7 6 — 5 I7i 10 30 22 17 14 9,6 17 6 7 — 6 16 12 15 25 86 17 4,5 10 5 8 — 7 14$ 14 — 29 55 19 9,5 13 4 9 — 8 13f 15 45 33 25 22 4,4 16 3 10 9 12| 17 30 36 94 24 9,4 19 2 20 — 19 M 35 — 73 88 49 8,7 2 18 4 30 — 28 13f 52 30 110 82 74 8,1 4 7 6 40 -,— 38 2f 70 — 147 76 99 7,4 5 16 8 50 — 47 14| 87 30 184 71 124 6,7 7 5 10 60 , — 57 3f 105 _ 221 65 149 6,1 8 15 70 — 66 15 122 30 ' 268 59 174 5,5 10 4 2 80 — 76 4* 140 — 295 53 199 4,8 11 13 4 90 — 85 17} 157 30 332 47 224 4,2 13 2 6 100 — 95 5f 175 — 369 41 249 3,5 14 11 8 ( xliii ) Table D. MONEY OF NASSAU, FRANKFURT, BADEN, WURTEMBERG, BAVARIA, &c. FLORINS (at the rate of 24 to the Mark of Silver), reduced to the Value at par of the Money of <— N Prussia. England. France. Switzerland. Dollars Saxony. Pounds Sterling Flori (an pied d of 60 Kreu Francs of 100 Centimes. Francs of 10 Batz. courant of 30 Silver Groschen. Mix- Dollars of 24 Groschen. of 20 Shillings or 240 Pence. PI. Kr. Fr. C. Fr. B. T. Gr. T. Gr. £. s. d. — 1 — 4 — -,2 — -,3 — -,2 0^ — 2 — 7 — -,5 — -,6 ■ — ~>4 0§ — 3 — 11 — ->7 — -,9 — -,7 1 — 4 — 14 — 1»- — 1,1 — -,9 o o i| — 5 — 18 — 1,2 — 1,4 — 1,1 if — 6 — 22 — 1,5 — 1,7 — 1,3 2 — 7 — 25 — 1,7 — 2,- — 1,6 2i — 8 — 29 — 1,9 — 2,3 — 1,8 2§ — 9 — 32 — 2,1 — 2,6 — 2,- 3 — 10 — 36 . — ■ 2,4 — 2,9 — 2,2 31 — 20 — 72 — 4,8 — 5,7 — 4,4 6§ — 30 1 8 — 7,3 — 8,6 — 6,7 10 — 40 1 44 — 9,7 — 11,4 — 8,9 i ijj — 50 1 80 1 2,1 — 14,3 — 11,1 1 4§ 1 — 2 15 1 4,5 17,1 13,3 18 2 — 4 31 2 9,1 1 4,3 1 2,7 3 4 3 — 6 46 4 3,6 1 21,4 1 16,- 5 4 — 8 62 5 8,2 2 8,6 2 5,3 6 8 5 — 10 77 7 2,7 2 25,7 2 18,7 8 4 6 — 12 93 8 7,3 3 12,9 3 8,- 10 7 — 15 8 10 1,8 4 — 3 21,3 11 8 8 — 17 24 11 6,4 4 17,1 4 10,7 13 4 9 — 19 39 12 -,9 5 4,3 5 — 15 10 — 21 55 14 5,5 5 21,4 5 13,3 16 8 20 — 43 10 29 -,9 11 12,9 11 2,7 1 13 4 30 — 64 65 43 6,4 17 4,3 16 16,- 2 10 40 — 86 20 58 1,8 22 25,7 22 5,3 3 6 8 50 — 107 74 72 7,3 28 17,1 27 18,7 4 3 4 60 — 129 29 87 2,7 34 8,6 33 8,~ 5 70 — 150 84 101 8,2 40 — 38 21,3 5 16 8 80 — 172 39 116 3,7 45 21,4 44 10,7 6 13 4 90 — 193 94 130 9,1 51 12,9 50 — 7 10 100 215 49 145 4,6 57 4,3 55 13,3 8 6 8 ( xliv ) Table E. Various Foreign Measures of Length, reduced to English Measure. 1 Dutch mile . . = English mile. Eng. m. Furl. Yards. orl9« =1° 3-634= 3 5 16 1 Belgian post . = 4-66 = 4 4 61 14-83=1° 1 Germ. Geogr. mile = 4*6 = 4 4 176 15* =1° 1 Prussian mile . = 4-68 = 4 5 96 14-77=1° 1 Saxon mile . . = 4-66 = 4 5 61 14-83=1° 1 Hanoverian mile — 4*6 = 4 4 176 15- =1° 1 m. Hesse Darmst. = 4*66 = 4 5 61 14-83=1° The Prussian or Rhineland foot, which is divided into 12 inches = 12-356 English inches, or 0*31382 metre. The Prussian ell is 25J Prussian inches = 26*256 English inches, or 0*6669 metre. The ruthe is 12 Prussian or Rhine- land feet = 4*118 English yards. A Prussian mile is 2000 ruthen = 7*532 kilometres. The Dresden foot = 11*24 English inches, or 14 Dresden feet = 13 English feet, nearly. 1 Dresden ell = 2 Dresden feet = 1 ft. 10| inch. English, nearly. 21 Dresden ells = 13 English yards. 1 Dresden ruthe = 8 Dresden ells = 4*996 English yards. There are two kinds of feet generally used in Holland, viz. the Amsterdam foot and the Bhineland foot. The Amsterdam foot is divided into 11 inches, and each inch is divided into quarters and eighths. This foot = 11*147 English inches, or 0*283133 metres. The value of the Rhineland foot is given above. There are three ells used in Holland, viz. the ell of Amsterdam = 27*0797 English inches; the ell of the Hague = 27*333 English inches; and the ell of Brabant =27*585 English inches. In Belgium, since 1820, the French decimal system, founded on the metre, is generally used. 1 metre = 39*37079 English inches; 1 kilometre =1093*6331 English yards ; 1 myriametre = 6 miles 5 furlongs 176 yards, English measure. 1610 metres = 1 English mile. A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. SECTION I. HOLLAND. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 1. Passports. — 2. Money. — 3. Custom-house. — 4. Travelling in Holland: Posting, Diligences, Roads, Railroads, Maps. — 5. Travelling by Water, Trekschuit. — 6. Water. — 7. Inns. — 8. General View of Holland. — 9. Dykes. — 10. Canals. — 11. Polders. — 12. Dunes. — 13. Gardens and Summer-houses. — 14. Dutch School cf Painting ; Picture Galleries in Holland. — 15. Some Peculiarities of Dutch Manners.— 16. Music, Organs. — 17. Agriculture. ROUTES. (In the Table of Contents throughout this book the names of places are printed in italics only in those Routes where they are described.) ROUTE 1 2 PAGE , 24 London to Rotterdam . . . Rotterdam to Amsterdam by Delft, the Hague, Leiden, and Haarlem — Railroad . . . . 28 3. Amsterdam to Broek and Saar- dam 59 4. Haarlem to the Helder, and back to Amsterdam 64 5. Amsterdam to Utrecht and Arnhem — Railroad ; and to Nijmegen 69 6. Amsterdam to Arnhem ... 72 7. Amsterdam to Groningen, Leeu- warden, Harlingen, and Em- den; visit to the Pauper Colonies of Fredericksoord . . 73 8. Amsterdam to Bremen ... 77 ROUTE PAGE 9. Rotterdam to Utrecht . . . 78 10. The Hague to Utrecht ... 79 11. The Rhine in Holland (A) 80 (a) Rotterdam to Nijmegen by the Waal branch . . 81 (b) Rotterdam to Arnhem by the Lek branch . . .83 12. Arnhem to Kampen by Zutphen and the IJssel 85 13. Rotterdam to Antwerp by Dort and Breda ; or by water, passing Bergen-op- Zoom 86 N.B. — The Rhine from Nijmegen to Cologne and Mayence is described under the head of Germany. 1. PASSPORTS. Persons going direct to Rotterdam, or any other Dutch port, may obtain a pass- port from the Dutch consul, 123, Fenchurch Street, who makes a charge of 5s. If provided with another passport, they had better, at least, secure a Dutch minister's signature to it. Little strictness is usually observed in Holland regarding passports. After the political events of 1848, however, the police, par- ticularly at Rotterdam and its neighbourhood, became very strict about them. A Prussian, French, or Belgian passport, properly vise", will answer perfectly well for travelling in Holland. [n. G.] B 2 2. MONEY. — 3. CUSTOM-HOUSE. — 4. posting. Sect. I. 2. MONEY. Accounts are kept in guilders and cents. The guilder, or Dutch florin, is worth Is. 8d. English. It is divided into 20 stivers, and into 100 cents : 1 stiver = 5 cents, is worth 1 penny English. Cents. Stivers, s. d. Silver Coins. — The guilder (or Dutch florin) = 100 = 20 = 1 8 j guilder (called Vijfjes or Quartjes) = 25 = 5 = 5 T ij guilder or dubbeltje = 10= 2 = 2 Stuiver or ± guilder = 5=1=01 Ducatoon " = 315 = 63 = 5 3 3-guilder pieces = 300 = 60 = 5 Zealand (Zeeuwsche) rixdollar =260 = 52 = 4 4 Bixdollar (Eijksdaalder) = 250 = 50 = 4 2 Dollar (daalder) = 150 = 30 = 2 6 Agtentwintig = 140 = 28 = 2 4 s. d. Gold Coins.— The "William (Willem) =10 guilders =16 8 § Willem = 5 guilders =84 Ducat = 5 guilders 5 stivers =89 "When the ducat has its full weight, it is generally taken for 5 guilders 60 cents; but its current value changes with the value of gold. 5 and 10 guilder pieces are no longer (since June 1850) a legal tender. In consequence of which, and of the act passed by the Belgian Legislature for the withdrawal of gold coin from circulation (see § 19), their value is depreciated both in Holland and Belgium. The difference between cents and centimes should be borne in mind. Cent, a Dutch and Belgian coin, is the ^ of a guilder, or of Is. 8d. Centime, a French coin, is the T ^ part of a franc, or of lOd. The cent is nearly equal to 2 centimes, and is worth about £ of a penny English. The guilder is worth 2 French francs 5 sous. Travellers should provide themselves with Dutch money at Botterdam, or at the first town of Holland they enter, as French coins are not current here as they are in Belgium. The new Dutch coins are current also in Belgium, and up the Bhine as far as Cologne. 3. CUSTOM-HOUSE. The Dutch custom-house officers are usually civil, and by no means trouble- some in examining the baggage of persons not travelling with merchandise. A small fee here, as elsewhere, may expedite and tend to lighten the search in the traveller's portmanteau, but civility and a readiness to lay open the baggage is better still. As a general rule in this and other countries of the continent, persons travelling in their own carriage are subjected to very little inconvenience from the custom-house officers. 4. POSTING, DILIGENCES, ROADS, RAILROADS, AND MAPS. Posting. — The posting regulations introduced into Holland by the French still remain in force, and are nearly identical with those adopted in France and Belgium. The charges fixed by the tarif (1834) are 7 Of cents for every horse per post, making 1 guilder 41f cents for 2 horses, and 2 guilders 12f cents for 3 horses, per post. The postilion is entitled to 35f cents per post ; but, as in France, is restricted to the sum which the law allows only when he has not given satisfaction to his employers. Half a post more than the real distance must be paid on entering and quitting the Hague and Amsterdam. Where the roads are bad, the postmaster is allowed Holland. travelling in Holland. 3 to attach, an extra horse to carriages ; in some cases, in winter only ; in others, throughout the year. Disputes about charges and distances may he settled by reference to the Post- book published by the Dutch Government, entitled Afstandsioyzer voor de Stations der Koninklijke Nederlandsche Paardenposterij . The traveller in Holland is at liberty, if he pleases, to demand the strict observance of the laws contained in the Post-book, regarding the number of horses and the charges for them. But Custom is somewhat at variance with the Post-book ; and it is the common prac- tice to charge 1 guilder for each horse per post, and to give 1 guilder also to the postilion. This is much dearer than the tariff; but, to make up for it, the tra- veller is not bound to take the number of horses required by the tariff, but a party of 4 or 5 may be drawn by 2 horses instead of 3. The Batch post is somewhat less than 5 English miles. The Dutch league (ure gaans), or the distance a man will walk in an hour, is 5555 metres = '6\ English miles. Diligences. — On all the great roads which have no competing railroad nume- rous diligences run several times a-day. They are very precise in the time of starting. They belong to private individuals or companies licensed by Government. The best are those of Van Gend and Co. ; they are roomy and convenient, travel at the rate of about 6 miles an hour, and arc usually drawn by 3 horses yoked abreast. If more persons apply for places than can be accommodated in the coach, an additional carnage, or " by-chaise," is prepared, by which the passenger may proceed at the same rate of fare as by the main diligence. A job carriage (glaswagen) with 2 horses may be hired for 14 guilders per diem when taken for several days in succession, the same sum being charged for back fare. The average expense of a hired carriage and horses is about one- fourth less than in England. Roads. — The high roads connecting the principal towns and villages of Hol- land are paved with bricks, and are excellent. The cross or secondary roads consist merely of loose sand, and are wretchedly bad, and in wet weather barely passable. There are no stones in a large part of Holland; but the want of stones is supplied by a small and tough kind of brick called klinkcr, which, after the foundation of the road is levelled, are placed edgewise close together, and the interstices filled with sand, so as to form a hard, smooth, and level highway, very pleasant to travel over. The average cost of making such a road is about 17,000 guild., more than 1400?., per English mile. As all heavy goods are conveyed by water, the wear and tear on the roads, traversed almost entirely by light carriages, is not very great. In many parts the roads run on the tops of the dykes ; and, as there are no parapets or railings, there is at least the appearance of danger, and accidents sometimes happen. The tolls are very high, sometimes equalling in one stage the expense of one post-horse. A carriage with 4 wheels and 2 horses pays from 6 to 8 stivers at each turnpike ; and a toll generally occurs every 3 miles English. The passage money for crossing ferries is also high. Railroads (Ijzcren-spoorwcg) are opened from Amsterdam to Haarlem, the Hague, and Rotterdam, and from Amsterdam to Utrecht and to Arnheni. The latter is to be continued on to Duisbcrg to join the Prussian line to Cologne, as soon as the permission and co-operation of the Prussian Government can be obtained. The Prussian Government, however, are afraid of the Aachen and Coin line being injured by the construction of the Dutch line. The engines are made in England. The Dutch railways are generally well managed, and the station-houses well arranged. 2nd-class carriages are protected from the weather : they are usually fitted up as chars-a-banc. Vigilantes (cabs) and omni- buses ply to and from the stations. The porters on the Dutch railways arc not by law entitled to any gratuity. b2 4 5. TRAVELLING BY WATER T.REK.SCHUITEN. Sect. I. The line from Botterdam to Amsterdam deserves the attention of the engineer, from the number of canals which it has to cross, which presented considerable difficulty, overcome by ingenious expedients, such as rolling and swing bridges. A large part of the line is founded on piles, often under water, and the roadway is laid on faggots bound together by stakes and wattles. The best English Map of Holland and Belgium is that published by Mr. John Arrowsmith in 1835. The best foreign map is that of Casparus Muller. There is also a good map of Holland, now rather scarce, on a scale of 25oW> D Y Le Clercq, Lieutenant of Artillery, and lithographed by the Eoyal Military Academy, 1841. 5. TRAVELLING BY WATER — TREKSCHUITEISr. The canals of Holland are as numerous as roads in other countries, and afford the most abundant means of conveyance in every direction. Barges, called Trekschuiten [drag -boats), navigate the canals, and convey passengers and goods : they are nearly filled by a long low cabin, divided by a partition into two parts ; the fore-cabin, called ruim, appropriated to servants and common people ; and the after-cabin, or roef, set apart for the better classes, and a little more expensive ; it is smaller, and will contain 8 or 10 per- sons. The roef has a small open space at the stern, where you can stand upright and breathe the air beside the steersman. It is generally fitted up with neatness, and may be engaged by a party exclusively for their own use. The barge is more commodious for night travelling and less fatiguing than the diligence, and the traveller may enjoy a comfortable sleep, provided the gnats permit. It must, however, be understood that Dutch people of any station rarely resort to the trekschuit. The to wing-horse is ridden by a lad (het jagertje), who receives a few cents at each stage, and is well paid with a stiver. It is amusing to observe how quickly and neatly he passes the numerous bridges, disengaging the towing-rope, and fastening it again, without impeding the progress of the vessel. Whenever the barge approaches another coming in a contrary direction, the boatmen ex- change the two monosyllables " huy " and " vull," indicating which is to go to the right and which to the left, and the one drops his rope for the other to pass over. The advantages of the trekschuit are principally its cheapness. The usual cost of travelling by it is about a stiver a mile. Its disadvantages are — 1st, That it rarely travels faster than 4 miles an hour ; 2ndly, Though the banks of the canal are often enlivened by gardens and villas, yet it sometimes happens that they are so high as to shut out all view, which is very tiresome and monotonous ; 3rdly, The annoyance of tobacco smoke ; and 4thly, The trekschuit almost invariably stops on the outside of the town to which it is bound, and does not enter it : hence you have sometimes to walk more than a mile to reach an inn, and are compelled to intrust your luggage to porters, who, though they do not deserve the character of thieves, which Mrs. Starke bestowed on them, at least are exorbitant in their charges ; so that you are com- pelled to pay sometimes twice as much for the carriage of a portmanteau and bag into a town as for the whole passage by the boat. The railways now established and extending through Holland will gradually divert much of the traffic from the old channel of the slow canal and trekschuit ; still, notwithstanding all the desagremens, for the mere novelty of the thing, no one should visit Holland without making trial of this, the national con- veyance. On a fine day it is a very agreeable mode of travelling. Even those I who travel in their own carriage should send it round by the road, and take their passage in a trekschuit for one stage; for instance, from Amsterdam to J Broek or Alkmaar. Excepting on the lines where railways are opened, the communication is keptl Holland. G. water.— 7. inns. — 8. general view of Holland.' 5 up constantly between all the great towns of Holland and the intervening places by trekschuits. A boat sets out several times a day, starting with the greatest punctuality ; and if a passenger be not on board at the stroke of the clock, he runs a risk of losing his passage. 6. DRINKING WATER. In the provinces of Holland bordering on the sea the water is generally very bad, not drinkable ; and strangers should be careful to avoid it altogether, except externally, or they may suffer from bowel complaints, and be delayed on their journey. In many parts good drinking water is brought in large stone bottles from Utrecht ; so that Utrecht water must be asked for at inns. As a sub- stitute for spring water, the effervescent waters of Seltzer, Geilnau, and Fachin- gen, all coming from the Brunnen of Nassau, are much drunk at meals ; a large bottle costs about 5c?. A very agreeable beverage is formed by mixing these waters with Ehenish or Moselle wine and sugar : some consider red Bordeaux wine, or a little lemon-juice and sugar, added to the Seltzer water, a more palat- able drink. 7. INNS. Holland is an expensive country to live in ; the wages of labour and taxes are very high ; the inns are consequently nearly as dear as in England. Notwith- standing this, they are, on the whole, inferior to those of most other countries of Western Europe. Dutch inns and beds are, however, generally clean. Charges. — A bed-room, which may also be used as a sitting-room, costs, on an average, from 1 to 3 guilders ; dinner at the table-d'hote, 1^ to 2 guilders ; ditto in private, 2 to 3 guilders ; breakfast with tea or coifee, 60 cents. A German traveller rates them thus : bed, 1 guilder; breakfast, 10 to 15 stivers; tea, ditto ; dinner, with wine, 2 guilders. The dinner-hour, at tables-d'hote, is usually 4 o'clock. The waiter is called Jan throughout Holland. From ^ to \ a guilder is given to the servants daily ; but the cleaning of shoes and clothes is done by commissionaires, who also serve as laquais de place. They are amply paid with 1^ or 2 guilders for a whole day's services, and with 1 guilder for ^ a day. The Porter (Kruijer), who carries luggage from the coach or railway office to the inn, or vice versa, is well paid with 10 stivers. The beds, owing to the humidity of the climate, are often damp, and should be warmed with the warming-pan, a much employed article in Dutch households. The sheets are also dried by being laid over a wicker frame, beneath which a pan of peat is burnt. 8. A GENERAL VIEW OP HOLLAND. There is not, perhaps, a country in Europe which will more surprise an in- telligent traveller than Holland. Although so near to our coasts, and so easily accessible, it is too often passed over by the English in their haste to reach the picturesque scenes of the Rhine and Switzerland. The attractions of Holland are certainly of a different kind ; but they are of a character so entirely peculiar, that, whether a traveller visit this country at the outset or termination of his tour, he will be equally sure to find in it what he has not seen before. The routes from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, and thence to Cologne, described in the following pages, ma;/ be fully explored in ten days or a fortnight ; and there is certainly no road in Europe which in so small a space has so many curiosities to show, and upon which lie so many cities, great in commerce and renowned in history. To a stranger Holland appears hardly endurable as a country to reside in, but for a journey of two weeks the universal flatness and the monotony of scenery are not tiresome. The aspect of the country is too strange to fatigue, and, indeed, in sunny weather, is very fertile in picturesque effects. A large part of Holland is a delta, formed of the alluvium deposited by the G 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. Sect. I. Eliine and other rivers, in the same manner as the Delta of Egypt has been formed by the Nile. The greater portion of it has been perseveringly rescued from the water, to whose dominion it may almost be said to belong, by the con- tinual efforts and ingenuity of man, and in a long series of years. Much of it is mud driven up by the sea, in return for what it carries away from some parts of the coast. Were human agency and care removed but for 6 months, the waves would, without doubt, regain their ancient dominion — so much of the land lies below the level of the sea ; and an extensive tract of the country would be reduced to the state of those vast wastes, composed of sand and mud-banks, quite unfit for human habitation, which now lie at the mouths of the Nile and Mississippi. And yet these fields, gained with such difficulty, and preserved by constant watchfulness, from the waters, have been, in more instances than one, inundated by their owners during their contests with foreign foes ; and Dutch patriotism has not hesitated to subject the land to temporary ruin in the desire of preserving liberty. The cutting of the dykes, and opening of the sluice-gates, which was resorted to in order to free Holland from Spanish tyranny, was a desperate resource, and in itself a national calamity, entailing beggary for some years, upon a large portion of the population, owing to the length of time and the very great expense which a second recovery of the land from the sea required. This glorious sacrifice, however, served to show that it needs not the mountains of Switzerland nor the fastnesses of Tyrol to enable a brave people to defend their native land. Holland may be considered in many respects as the most wonderful country, perhaps, under the sun : it is certainly unlike every other. "What elsewhere would be considered as impossible has here been carried into effect, and incon- gruities have been rendered consistent. " The house built upon the sand" may here be seen standing ; neither Amsterdam nor Rotterdam has any better foun- dation than sand, into which piles are driven through many feet of superincum- bent bog earth ; and to form a correct idea of these and other wonderful cities and towns standing on the morass, one must not forget the millions of solid beams hidden under ground which support them. "We speak contemptuously of any- thing which is held together by straws, yet a long line of coast of several pro- vinces is consolidated by no other means than a few reeds intermixed with straw wisps, or woven into mats. Without this frail but effectual support, the fickle dunes, or sand-hills, would be driven about into the interior, and would over- whelm whole districts of cultivated land. In Holland the laws of nature seem to be reversed ; the sea is higher than the land ; the lowest ground in the country is 24 feet below high- water mark, and, when the tide is driven high by the wind, 30 feet ! In no other country do the keels of the ships float above the chimneys of the houses, and nowhere else does the frog, croaking from among the bul- rushes, look down upon the swallow on the house-top. Where rivers take their course, it is not in beds of their own choosing; they are compelled to pass through canals, and are confined within fixed bounds by the stupendous mounds imposed on them by human art, which has also succeeded in overcoming the everywhere else resistless impetuosity of the ocean : here, and nowhere else, does the sea appear to have half obeyed the command, " Thus far shalt thou go, and no further." In a very extensive district the canals are brimful of water, which can hardly stir, and, when in motion, flows with a current barely perceptible. There is not a stone or pebble to be found, and there are no hills, save such as are raised by the winds; unless, indeed, we take into consideration those vast artificial moun- tains of granite, which have been brought at enormous expense from Norway and Sweden, and sunk under water to serve as barriers to the sea. Excepting the eastern provinces, the parks of Haarlem and the Hague, and the avenues leading from one city to another, the land does not produce much wood ; bu then entire Norwegian forests have been buried beneath the mud in the shape o Holland. 8. general view of Holland. 7 piles. " The total of the hydraulic works between the Dollart and the Schcldo have been estimated by a competent judge to have cost 300,000, 000^. sterling, and form in so small a country a most astonishing monument of human industry." —Telford, The constant attention which a Dutchman has been obliged to give to main- taining in perfect order the great works on which his safety depends, and the artificial nature of the country itself which he has formed for his residence and support, has given a formal and methodical direction to his tastes in cases where Nature would have been better left to herself. Thus trees are often found grow- ing, not in the natural way, but as they have been arranged by the plummet and line, in rank and file in straight rows and avenues. Their branches are not allowed to spread abroad as nature intended, but are cut and clipped till they are transformed into green walls, or are even trained into more grotesque shapes. By way of improving still further upon nature, the trunks and lower branches are sometimes painted over with bright colours in North Holland, partly for the sake of cleanliness, partly to preserve them from insects. The Dutchman may be said to have made even the wind his slave. It might be supposed that the universal flatness, and the absence of those elevations which afford shelter to other countries, would leave this at the mercy of every blast that blows, to sweep everything before it. So far is this from being the case, that not a breath of air is allowed to pass without paying toll, as it were, by turning a windmill. These machines are so numerous, that they may be said to be never out of sight in a Dutch landscape. In the suburbs of great cities they are congregated like armies of giants spreading out their broad arms, as if to protect the streets and houses which they overlook. With us they are rarely used except to grind corn : in Holland they are employed almost as variously as the steam-engine ; they saw timber, crush rape-seeds for oil, grind snuff, beat hemp, &c. ; but the principal service which they perform is in draining the land; and here the Dutch have most ingeniously set the wind to counteract the water. At least one half of the windmills have water-wheels attached to them, which act as pumps, and, by constantly raising the water into the canals, alone keep the low land dry and fit for cultivation and the habitation of man. As, however, experience has shown that a first-rate mill is advantageously applied to raise water only 1 ell (=3*28 ft.) at once, 3 or 4 are often planted in a row on stages one above the other, each pumping up the water to the stage above it. They are constructed of much larger dimensions than with us : a single sail is often 120 feet long, and the usual length is 80 feet. There are said to be 9000 of these windmills in Holland, and the annual cost of them is valued at 3,600,000 dollars. It will, indeed, be soon discovered, while visiting either the towns or the country parts of Holland, that the inhabitants do not subject themselves to the unceasing menial labour which characterises the Flemings, Germans, and even the English. A windmill pumps the water out of the polders ; a horse drags passengers and merchandise to and fro on the canals ; a street porter is scarcely ever seen carrying a burden, He uses first a wheelbarrow, and, when he becomes rich enough to buy a horse, he has it harnessed to a sledge, on which he drags the burden along the streets. To sum up all, to such an extent do paradoxes prevail in Holland, that even the cows' tails, in other countries proverbial for growing downwards, and descend- ing in the world as they advance in ago, here grow upwards : for, with the view of promoting the cleanliness of the animal while in the stall, the tail is tied up to a ring in the roof of the stable. This may be seen in Brock and elsewhere in Holland. (See Route 3.) Many authors have exorcised their wit or spleen in describing this singular country. Thus, Voltaire took leave of the land and people in these sarcastic words : " Adieu ! canaux, canards, canaille." 8 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. — 9. DYKES. Sect. I. The following verses are from the works of Andrew Marvel : — " Holland, that scarce deserves the name of land, As but the oft'scouring of the British sand, And so much earth as was contributed By English pilots when they heav'd the lead ; Or what by the ocean's slow alluvion fell, Of shipwreck'd cockle and the muscle-shell ; J This indigested vomit of the sea Fell to the Dutch by just propriety. ; Glad, then, as miners who have found the ore, They, with mad labour, fish'd the land to shore, And div'd as desperately for each piece Of earth, as if 't had been of ambergris ; Collecting anxiously small loads of clay, Les than what building swallows bear away ; Or than those pills which sordid beetles roll, Transfusing into them their dunghill soul. " How did they rivet with gigantic piles, Thorough the centre their new-catched. miles! And to the stake a struggling country bound, Where barking waves still bait the forced ground ; Building their watery Babel far more high To reach the sea, than those to scale the sky. " Yet still his claim the injur'd Ocean lay'd. And oft at leap-frog o'er their steeples play'd ; As if on purpose it on land had come To show them what's their mare liberum. " A daily deluge over them does boil ; The earth and water play at level coil. The fish ofttimes the burgher dispossess'd, And sat, not as a meat, but as a guest ; And oft the tritons and the sea-nymphs saw- Whole shoals of Dutch serv'd up for Cabillau ; Or, as they over the new level rang'd, For pickled herring, pickled herring chang'd. Nature, it seem'd, asham'd of her mistake, Would throw their land away at duck and drake." The author of Hiidibras describes Holland as " A country that draws fifty feet of water, In which men live as in the hold of nature, And when the sea does in upon them break, And drowns a province, does but spring a leak." And its inhabitants — " That always ply the pump, and never think They can be safe, but at the rate they sink • That live as if they had been run aground, And when they die are cast away and drown'd : That dwell in ships, like swarms of rats, and prey Upon the goods all nations' fleets convey ; And when their merchants are blown up and crack'd ; Whole towns are cast away in storms, and wrack'd, That feed, like cannibals, on other fishes . And serve their cousin-germans up in dishes. A land that rides at anchor, and is moor'd, In which they do not live, but go aboard." — Butler. 9. DYKES. Holland includes some of the lowest land on the continent of Europe. To keep out the ocean from the sea-bound provinces, and prevent its acquiring territory which seems to be its own, immense dykes or ramparts of earth and Holland. 9. dykes. 9 stone arc raised along the coast, so broad and strong as to prevent the water passing through them, and sufficiently lofty to bid defiance to inundation at high tide. The rivers and inland lakes in many parts of the country are quite as dangerous as the sea, and their waters require to be restrained by dykes nearly as extensive as the sea-dykes. The first thing necessary in the construction of these bulwarks is, to secure a solid foundation, sufficiently strong to support the immense weight to be laid upon it, by ramming down the soil, and by laying a substratum of clay, or by driving in piles when it is incoherent. Were the foundation porous, the water woidd undermine it, and the dykes sink down into a hollow. The foundation of a sea-dyke is from 120 to 150 feet in width. The rampart itself is composed, as far as possible, of clay : whenever that material is difficult to procure, the face of the dyke is made of clay, and the interior of earth, sand, and clay ; but clay alone is preferred, as being water-proof. The face of the dyke on the water side is made to slope very gradually ; in river dykes generally rising 1 foot in 4 or 6, and in the great sea-dyke of Kappel still more gradually, or 1 foot in 13. This very gradual slope is owing, both to the loose nature of material used, and to an opinion that it is better to allow the force of the wave to expend itself over a long incline. The dyke is protected, or in a manner thatched, by willow twigs interwoven so as to form a sort of wicker-work, and the interstices are filled up with clay puddled to render it compact. This wicker-work is renewed every three or four years, occasioning a considerable consumption of willow boughs, and the willow-tree is cidtivated to a great extent for this purpose. The dykes are frequently planted with trees, as their spreading and interlacing roots assist greatly in binding the earth together. The base is often faced with masonry, and protected by vast heaps of stones usually brought from Norway, and by rows of piles 16 feet long, projecting 6 or 7 feet above ground, connected by timber, and filled in with fascines weighted with stones : the upper part of the dyke is covered with turf, and rises sometimes to the height of 40 feet. A road rims along the top, or immediately within it. " The dykes, when seen only at one spot, may probably not strike the merely cursory observer as very extraordinary ; but when it is recollected that the greater part of Holland is fenced in by similar bulwarks equally massive and costly, they will appear wonderful." — /. W. C. The most stupendous of these embankments arc the Dykes of the Helder (see Route 4), and of West Kappel, at the W. extremity of the island of Walcheren (see Route 18). The annual expense of keeping in repair each of them alone amounts to 75,000 guilders (about 6400/.) ; while the sum total annually expended throughout Holland in the repair of dykes and regulation of water-levels varies from 5,000,000 to 7,000,000 guilders (nearly 600,000/.). A special corps of engineers called Water - staat, including among them many men of science, having received a special instruction in the new college at Delft, are employed entirely in watching the state of the waters and guarding against all accidents from irruptions, — a most important duty, upon which the national welfare, and, indeed, existence, of Holland may be said to depend. During the winter they are stationed near those spots where danger is most to be apprehended, and magazines arc erected, provided with the necessary stores and implements, so as to be ready at a mo- ment's notice. The winter is the season most liable to accidents, when it not unfrequently happens that long prevailing S.W. winds, acting on the surface of the Atlantic, drivo an accumulation of waters round the north of Scotland into the German Ocean. If these are succeeded by very violent tempests blowing from the N.W., the effect is, to propel the sea with great violence southward through the British Channel : but the straits of Dover are too narrow to admit the augmented body of water readily to pass, and in consequence it falls back upon the coast of Hol- land. At such moments the " broad ocean" may truly be said "to lean against b3 10 9. dykes. Sect. I. the land," and the strength of the dykes alone preserves it from submersion. To guard against such an assault the utmost energy, activity, and skill are required. Watchmen are posted day and night along the line of threatened attack, to give instantaneous warning if symptoms of weakness are anywhere observed in the ramparts ; and workmen are appointed by the authorities to be in readiness in the neighbouring villages. It may easily be imagined with what intense anxiety the rising tide is, at such times, observed. The accumulation of waters in the ocean causes them to ascend far above the ordinary high- water mark ; and if they only surmount the top of the dyke so as to flow over it, its ruin is inevitable. "When such a calamity is anticipated, the alarm bell is rung, and every man hastens to his post. With the utmost rapidity, an upper rampart is constructed upon the top of the dyke, to keep out the waters. It is incredible in how short a time a bulwark of this kind is elevated ; it is a race between the tide and the embankment. If the strength and solidity of the dyke be doubtful, and a breach be apprehended, large sheets of sailcloth or mats of woven straw and rushes are laid on the out- side, in the same manner as a leak is sometimes stopped in a ship. This prevents the earth's being washed away by the action of the waves. It must be remem- bered that the works, raised at such an emergency, vast as they are, are only temporary, and are removed whenever the clanger is past. Instances are not rare in which these precautions have proved quite ineffectual ; and whole dis- tricts have been overwhelmed and lost for ever in the sea, or in the Rhine and its branches. The greater part of the space now occupied by the Zuider Zee was dry land down to the 13th century. In the time of the Romans the IJssel emptied itself into the lake Flevo. Beyond this lake, to the S. and W., the Zuider Zee, then also a fresh- water lake, discharged itself by a river, the Vlie, which followed nearly the present channel of that name, entering the ocean between what are now the islands of VTieland and Ter-schelling. The action of the waters gradually destroyed the tract of land which divided these lakes. In 1170, during a great flood, the waters of the southern lake rose to the gates of Utrecht, and the lake was greatly extended, especially towards the 1ST. West Friesland, it is said, however, still stretched across the Zuider Zee from Petten and Meclemblick to the Lauwer Zee. From that time, for upwards of 200 years, it continued to increase, swallowing up " whole forests and many thousand acres of land, so that large ships might be navigated where carriages used to travel." At last, in 1396, Lake Flevo entirely disappeared, the existing islands were formed, or completely separated from the mainland, and the Zuider Zee con- verted into an arm of the German Ocean. The Gulf of Doilart, in the province of Groningen, was the result of the inundation of 1277, which swallowed up 44 villages. Similar calamities have several times produced the same effects in that province. Even so late as 1717, 1560 habitations disappeared beneath the waters of the ocean, which had thus broken its bounds. The Biesbosch, near Dort, and the sandbanks near South Beveland, called Verdronken Land (drowned land), are two other examples of submerged districts. Of all the united provinces, Friesland and Groningen have suffered, and continue to suffer, most from floods. The annals of Friesland present the most extraordinary series of disasters from the ocean, and these, better than anything else, will serve to show by what an unstable tenure the Dutch hold the land. " Friesland was inundated in 533, 792, 806, 839, 1164, 1170,. 1210, 1221, 1230, 1237 (this year the island called Vlieland was formed), 1248, 1249, 1250 (the consequence of this inundation was a pestilence, which destroyed several thousand persons), 1277 (this vear the Gulf of Dollart was formed)— in 1287 the Zuider Zee assumed its present ex- tent and shape, and 80,000 persons lost their lives in the inundation— 1336, 1400, 1421, 1429, 1516, 1524 (three iniindations in this year), 1530, 1532, 1559, 1570. On Nov. 1 an inundation occurred which covered even the heights Holland. 9. dykes. — inundations of the Rhine. 11 called Wieren, and cut off, in different parts of Holland, 100,000 persons, 30,000 of whom were Frieslanders. From this year the inundations are less frequent ; as an improved method of constructing the dykes was then introduced by the Spanish governor Eobles, who at the same time passed a law that they should in future be kept up by the owners of the land. Those recorded since 1570 were in 1610, 1675, 1717, 1776, and Feb. 5, 1825." — Gauthier, Voyageur dans les Pays-Bas. But Holland is exposed to far greater danger from internal inundations than even from inroads of the sea, arising from the stopping up of the rivers by the ice when the thaw sets in. All the ice of the Rhine and Mouse must necessarily pass the Dutch rivers ; if then it happens that the ice on the German Rhine get loose before the Dutch rivers are free, or if the ice is stopped in its course in a narrow part, it forms itself into one solid dam, stretching across from one bank to the other, sometimes 2 miles or more in length, adhering closely to the bed of the river and rising in icebergs high above its surface, so as to arrest the passage of the water, which, as it rises, must necessarily overflow the dykes behind it. In 1799, when the very existence of a large part of Holland was threatened by an inundation from this source, more formidable perhaps than any other on record, the Rhine rose at Nijmegen 7 feet in one hour ; and when the accumulated waters at last broke the ice-dam, they hurried down icebergs so tall as to conceal the houses of Nijmegen from the view of those on the opposite bank. At the mo- ment the dam burst, the river was filled with ice to the bottom, which, as it scraped along, carried off the gravel with it. So extensive and numerous were the dyke ruptures that a large part of Holland on both banks of the Rhine and Waal was laid under water ; the icebergs crossed the polders, sweeping away houses built on the dykes, and the loss of life of men and cattle was enormous. Holland is much more liable to river inundation since the improvements in the course of the Upper Rhine and the removal of the impediments at the Bingen Loch, as more water now passes in a* given time than formerly. The danger now recurs every winter, especially when a hard frost, during which much snow has fallen in Germany, is followed by a sudden thaw. The winter of 1824-25 was one of the most calamitous to the country known for many years. Amsterdam itself was threatened from the great height of the tides, which rose far above the usual level. The 1st of February, 1825, was a day of great anxiety : had the sea continued to rise a quarter of an hour longer the dyke must have been overflowed, and perhaps have given way, and Amster- dam would have suffered a calamitous inundation. Fortunately, in a moment when the danger was most urgent, the tide stopped, and the great pressure was immediately dmiinishcd and removed from the sea-wall ; but the lower part of the town had already been laid imder water. The injuries done at that time in the province of Holland were immense ; but by Dutch industry all the damage was repaired within 2 years. {Gedenkboek van Necrlands Watersnood, in Feb. 1825, door J. C. Beijer, 2 vols. 8vo. te s' Gravenhage, 1826. It contains a notice of the more remarkable recorded floods in the Netherlands from the commence- ment of the Christian era to the great flood of 1825.) The arms of one of the United Provinces is a lion swimming, with the motto, Luctor, et emergo, " I strive, and keep my head above water." It might be generally applied to the whole country, which has to maintain a perpetual struggle for existence against difficulties never to be entirely removed. The inhabitant of the provinces bor- dering on the sea or the Rhine, constantly threatened with the danger of sub- mersion, is not more secure than he who dwells on the side of Etna, or at the foot of Vesuvius, with a volcano heaving beneath him. A stranger can have a full impression of this only when he walks at the foot of one of those vast dykes, and hears the roar of the waves on the outside, 16 or 20 feet higher than his head. Some parts of the country lie several feet below the actual bed of the Rhine; as, for instance, the Ablasserwaard, near Gorcum. Indeed, the industry 12 9. DYKES. — 10. canals. Sect. I. of the early inhabitants of Holland in restraining their rivers between dykes, so as to prevent periodical inundations, threatens their descendants with a serious calamity at no distant period. It is the nature of all rivers liable to inundation to deposit great part of the sullage on their immediate banks, and raise them higher than the morass behind. Their beds, too, are continually raised by the deposit of the earthy particles mechanically suspended in the water. Hence the Rhine and other great rivers now flow along the ridges of great causeways or natural embankments formed of the deposit brought down by them in the course of ages, and far higher than the surrounding country. This must in all pro- bability be broken through some day or other, and the Rhine will find a new outlet to the sea. The same effect may be seen in the Po and Adige. See Handbook for N. Italy. The expense of maintaining the dykes is supported by taxes levied by com- missioners appointed for the purpose. 10. CANALS. Holland is so intersected with canals, that to a person looking down upon it from a balloon they would have the appearance of a network extending from one end of the country to the other. They serve, 1st, as the means of communica- tion ; every little town and village having its own system of canals, which con- nect it with all the places around. 2dly, as drains to carry off the superfluous water of the country. 3dly, in the place of walls and hedges : fields, gardens, and houses are surrounded by canals or moats, as in other countries by fences ; and they afford an equally good protection. The canals differ considerably from those of England, which are measured out so as barely to admit two narrow barges to pass, and interrupted at short dis- tances by locks. In Holland, as the canal is the drain as well as the highway of the country, and rids the land of its superabundant moisture, there is no re- striction to its breadth ; and as there is little variation of level, few locks are required : but those canals which empty themselves into the sea are provided with sluice-gates to prevent the influx of the tides, which are often higher than the waters of the canal itself. The several heights of the waters of Holland are referred to the Amsterdam Pile, which is considered to have been the mean height of the water in the IJ in the century before last, but high water in those days was 2 or 3 inches above the present level. The principal canals are 60 ft. broad and 6 ft. deep. Not only the surface, but even the bottom, is frequently higher than the adjoining land. The North Holland ship canal is truly one of the marvels of the country, and should be viewed by every traveller who visits Amsterdam. In its dimensions it is the largest not only in Holland but in Europe (Route 3). The discovery of the lock, an invention altogether modern, and which has given an entirely new feature to the inland navigation of Europe, has been claimed both by the Italians and the Dutch. " There is strong reason to believe that in Holland the lock was known, and in use, at least a century before its application in Italy." — Telford : Edin. Cycl. Inclined planes for transferring vessels from one level to another, similar to those in China, under the name of rolling bridges, have been long known in Holland. The object seems to have been, not so much to overcome a difference of level, as to prevent the transfer- ence of water from one tract of country to another, on account of the jealousy of drainage. One of the most remarkable of this kind is the Overtoon, between Amsterdam and the Haarlem Meer, which is preferred on account of the interest which the city of Haarlem has in continuing the ship navigation through the ancient sea sluices of Sparendam. (On the subject of this section see the "article " Navigation Inland" in the Edin, Cycl. It was contributed by the celebrated engineer Telford,) Holland. 11. polders. 13 11. POLDERS. Polder is the name given to a piece of ground below the level of the sea or river, which, having once been a morass or lake (plus, Anglice plash), has been surrounded by embankments, and then cleared of the water by pumps. So large a part of Holland and Belgium was originally in the condition of morass, that whole districts are composed entirely of polders partitioned off by dykes or ramparts ; and the ground thus drained is usually remarkable for its richness and fertility. Many of the polders in the Rijnland, or district around Leiden, are 32 ft. below the sea. Besides the natural lakes, the extent of surface covered by water has been much increased by digging for fuel. The natural fuel of the Netherlands is peat, the brown spongy peat obtained from the higher bogs (hooge veenen, or fens) of Friesland, and the black, solid, and more earthy peat of the low mosses (laage veenen) of North Holland. The surface of the bogs of the latter country is rarely above the level of the sea. From Rotterdam to the Helder they cover a very large area, and have proved rich mines of fuel for many ages. But where the peat was extracted stagnant water took its place. Scooped up from beneath this gathering water as long as any available turf existed, or as long as it could easily be reached, the quaking bogs were succeeded by lakes, often from 12 to 20 ft. deep below low water, — sometimes of considerable extent, scattered in numbers over the country, and frequently separated only by narrow intervals of unsteady land between. In draining one of these morasses, or inland seas, and rendering it fit for cul- tivation, the first operation consists in damming it in with a rampart of earth sufficiently strong and high to prevent foreign water from flowing into it. Out- side this rampart or dyke a ringsloot or surrounding drain is made, of dimensions sufficient to be a navigable canal. Windmills are then erected on the edge of the dyke, each of which works a water-wheel. Pumps are very seldom used in draining, as the water is usually highly charged with silt, and is not required to be raised a very great height. The instruments employed are, the scoop-wheel, the screw of Archimedes, and the inclined scoop-wheel, or Eckhardt wheel. When a great undertaking of drainage is going on, houses are erected in a convenient situation on the dyke, where the engineers and a committee of the proprietors constantly reside, and carefully watch the progress which the wind- mills are making. In most cases the undertakers are compelled by government regulations to complete the drainage at a certain period of the year, for the very obvious reason that, if the ground were not cleared of the water until the beginning of the summer heat, the exhalations would materially increase the marsh fevers which generally prevail in the first years of an extensive drainage. The mills raise the water from the marsh to the ringsloot or canal, which con- veys it to a river or to the sea. But most frequently the whole of this great operation cannot be performed at once : and where the marshes are of too great a depth below the surrounding country, two or three dykes and as many canals are made, at different levels, rising by degrees to the upper canal, in which the whole terminates. In the Schcrmer-Mecr, for instance, there are four stages of canals. Every piece of ground forms a long parallelogram, separated from the next by a broad deep ditch, which, in reality, is a first canal. This serves to convey part of the harvest ; to carry off the water which, but for this, would continue on the ground ; but, above all, as an enclosure, which renders it un- necessary to g\iard the flocks, which seldom attempt to pass over this obstruc- tion. The canals communicate, by means of the above-mentioned mills, with those of the second stage along the roads ; lastly, two or three upper canals traverse the whole of the polder, like great arteries, carrying all these lower waters into one grand canal made below the dyke, and immediately connected with the sea. These canals, on four different levels, aro, in general, completely 14 11. poldees. Sect. I. separated, but are made to communicate whenever it is desired, and the precise proportion which is thought necessary may he established between them. " It is easy to conceive the extreme fertility acquired by land managed in this manner. Formed originally of mud, which was itself rich, it is covered almost all the year round with herbs which contribute to its fertility. All the water which might be injurious is drawn off at pleasure, by means of the mills, and a regular and gradual irrigation is introduced at the most favourable moment. " The appearance of the polder itself, when you have got into it, is very dif- ferent from the upper country ; and, though more remarkable, it is decidedly less agreeable. Each object reminds you that you are at the bottom of a lake, on a factitious soil, where everything is calculated. When the draining is finished, the undertakers have very regularly portioned out the conquest they have made from the waters ; they have divided and subdivided it into perfectly equal parts : they have dug canals, made roads, planted trees in perfect right lines, proscribed all curves, all variation in the distance, and placed at the head of each farm a square habitation, which is always similar to its neighbour. Very accurately surrounded with 20 trees, often fine, but never graceful, these re- doubts resemble neither farm-houses, which would be less carefully kept, and more animated, nor country seats, where something could be dedicated to plea- sure. Their large roofs, coming down nearly to the ground in four equal slopes, rest upon brick walls, which are always neat, but never elegant. They look as if they had just sprung up like mushrooms among the tufted grass which sur- rounds them, and which seems never to have been trodden under foot." — A Journey in Worth Holland. In forming an idea of the power which will be required to bale out the water from a lake, or to maintain it in the state of a polder, three considerations are to be taken into account : 1st, The depth of water in the lake at its mean level, which indicates the power necessary merely to drain the lake ; 2ndly, The ave- rage yearly fall of rain and average yearly evaporation, the difference being to be removed by pumping ; lastly, The quantity of spring or ooze water likely to make its way into the. hollow land. An excellent opportunity will be afforded to the traveller to view the pro- cesses of a drainage on the very largest scale in the operations now in progress for emptying the great Lake of Haarlem (Route 2) . The better class of polders, with a good soil, when richly manured and care- fully cleared of weeds, especially those recently redeemed from the sea, are of great value, and highly productive as arable land ; but the greater part furnish pasture or hay for the cattle, and are by no means of inferior value in this graz- ing country. Many polders are subjected to annual inundations in the winter time, which, however, do no harm, if the water which covers them be not salt, and provided it can be removed by the end of May. The proprietors of the polders pay a cer- tain sum to be permitted to discharge the water pumped out of them into the neighbouring canals. It may, at first sight, appear singular that the polders, the source of agricul- tural wealth, should be equally important to the country in a military point of view ; this is, however, the case. By opening the sluices, cutting the dykes, and inundating the low meadows they enclose — a measure fraught with ruin, and therefore only resorted to at the last extremity — the Dutch may bid defiance to the strongest force brought against them : as, though the depth of water and mud upon a submerged polder is sufficiently great to check the advance of an army, it is too shallow to admit the passage of any but small boats. It is true that a hard frost sometimes converts the water, which serves as a defence in summer, into a bridge for the invading foes in winter. By availing themselves of the desperate resource of drowning the land to save it, the Dutch pinchased their freedom from the yoke of Spain ; and Europe beheld with astonishment the Holland. 12. duxes. — 13. gardens and summer*houses. 15 most powerful monarch in the world, upon whose dominions the sun never set, baffled by the hardy efforts of the inhabitants of a country which in extent is not much greater than Yorkshire. In a following- age, 1672, at a time when most of the provinces had opened their gates in consternation to Louis XIV., Holland opened to him her sluices, and was thus preserved from French tyranny. She has made the same sacrifice with equal success at various other periods of her history ; and even in 1830-32 everything was prepared to inundate the country, in the event of an inroad of the French army into Holland, which was at that time threatened. 12. DUNES. The Dunes, or sand-hills, which extend along the coast of Holland from Dun- kirk, nearly without interruption, to the Holder, varying in breadth between 1 and 3 miles, and rising sometimes to 40 or 50 ft. in height, are formed en- tirely by the action of the wind blowing up the sand of the sea-shore ; they are a source of good and evil to the country ; they serve as a natural barrier to keep out the ocean, — a benefit which, but for the ingenuity and contrivance of man, would be more than counterbalanced by the injury done by their progress inland. On the sea-shore they arc mere loose heaps, driven about by every blast, like snow-wreaths on the Alps ; and, were they not restrained, would move onward year after year and inundate the country. In passing over a desert of this kind at Schevcning, on a windy day, the atmosphere appears dim with the particles of sand blown like smoke through the air. The height of the dunes depends upon the fineness of the sand, as the wind has, of course, the most power in transporting the minuter particles. Camperdown, memorable in the naval annals of Britain, is one of the loftiest on the whole coast, owing to this cause. To check the dispersion of the sand, and the evil attending it, the dunes are sowed regularly every year with plants congenial to it, for even sand has a vege- tation peculiar to itself, which may be called luxuriant : but a species of coarse rced-grass, or scabent, which grows near the sea (Arundo arenaria), whose roots sometimes spread to a distance of 30 ft., is principally employed, and to greatest advantage. In a short time the roots spread and combine, so as to hold fast the sand, and cover the surface with a succession of verdant vegetation, which, growing and decaying on it, accumulates upon it a layer of earth capable at length of producing a crop of excellent potatoes, and even of supporting plan- tations of firs. Most of the plants thus cultivated on the dunes may be seen in the Botanic Garden at Leiden. Before the attempt was made to arrest the progress of the sand, it had ad- vanced, in the course of centimes, far into the interior ; and it has recently been found worth while, in some instances, to dig away and remove the superincum- bent hillocks, and lay bare the good soil buried by them : since, on being again exposed to the air and light, it is found to be still fertile and productive. (As to the subjects treated of in Sections 8-12, see Art. VI., Edin. Rev., Oct. 18-17, vol. lxxxvi. p. 419.) 13. GARDENS AND SUMMER-HOUSES. Though the charm of variety of aspect and inequality of surface has been denied by nature to Holland, compensation is made for this, in a certain degree, by the high cultivation of its fields and gardens. In whatever direction the traveller passes through the country, and whether by road or canal, he will find the way enlivened by country seats (buitcn plaatsen) and pleasure-gardens ; in the laving out and maintaining of which great wealth is expended, though they do not always show much taste. They present the most perfect pictures of prettiness, with their meandering walks and fantastically cut parterres, tilled with flowers of gaudiest hue. If possible, each garden is provided with a fish-pond ; 16 13. GARDENS AND SUMMER-HOUSES. Sect. I. and, if it be wanting, the first step which a Dutch proprietor invariably takes, upon entering a newly- acquired demesne, is to dig a large hole that he may convert into a pond ; so great an attachment does he appear to have for that element which surrounds him on all sides, which is never out of his sight, and which invariably stagnates before his door in the shape of a canal. At the ex- tremity of the garden a pair of iron gates is erected, often more for ornament than use. Through these, or through a gap made purposely in the hedge, the passer-by is admitted to spend his admiration on the beauties within, — on the pyramids of flower-pots, trim box borders, and velvet lawns and grass-plots. At the very end of the garden, overlooking the high road or canal, a summer-house is always placed, called zomerhuis (summer-house), tuinhuis (garden-house), or koepel (cupola) ; this is the resort of the family in spring and summer after- noons. Here the men smoke their pipes and sip their beer, coffee, or tea ; the old ladies ply the knitting needle, and the young ones amuse themselves with eyeing and criticising the passers-by. In the neighbourhood of all the large towns, the citizens and tradespeople, who have their shops and counting-houses in the crowded and narrow streets, generally have such a pavilion in a small garden on the outskirts, even though they have no house attached to it, to which they can retire when the business of the day is over. Yery frequently, on enter- ing the town, the traveller passes through a whole street of such gazabos. By a peculiarity of taste, • they are invariably placed in a stagnant ditch, which is usually covered with a luxuriant crop of green duckweed, and often offends the nose by the noisome odours which it exhales. The consequence is, that ere the sun goes down, however warm the evening, these ditch-bestriding pleasure- houses must be abandoned to the neighbourly frogs ; and they who should venture to prolong their evening recreations beyond a certain hour might pay for their temerity with a fever produced by the unwholesome exhalations which then begin to rise. " These little buildings are so very numerous as to form a characteristic- feature of the country. Each villa has its name or some motto inscribed over the gateway, the choice of which is generally meant to bespeak content and comfort on the part of the owner ; and they afford a source of amusement to the stranger as he passes along. Thus, among others, we read, ' Lust en rust,' Pleasure and ease ; ' Wei te vreede,' Well contented ; ' Mijn genegenheid is voldaan,' My desire is satisfied ; ' Mijn lust en leven,' My pleasure and life ; ' Met zoo kwaalijk,' Not so bad ; * G-erustelijk en wel te vreede,' Tranquil and content ; ' Vriendschap en gezelschap,' Friendship and sociability ; ' Het vermaak is in't hovenieren,' There is pleasure in gardening. And over the entrance to one of the tea-gardens near Eotterdam was inscribed, 'De vleesch potten van Egypte,' The fiesh-pots of Egypt. Some of the larger gardens abound with fruits and vegetables, and beds and borders of flowering shrubs and plants are laid out in all the grotesque shapes that can be imagined. It must be confessed, however, that an air of comfort presides over these villas. Most of the dwelling-houses are gaily painted in lively colours ; all the offices and out-houses are kept in neat order ; while the verdant meadows are covered with the finest cattle, most speckled black and white." — Family Tour in South Holland. The following description proceeds from the sarcastic and dashing pen of the author of " Vathek," and may be regarded as an amusing caricature of Dutch taste : — " Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side ; whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the other. These slug- gish puddles defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of any endeavour to conquer the filthiness. But perhaps I am too bold in my assertion, for I have no authority to mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution ? One should be inclined to this supposition by the numerous ban- queting-rooms and pleasure-houses which hang directly above then surface and Holland. 14. dutch school of painting. 17 scorn calculated on purpose to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature of their country (and I cannot but think it a little- hard that they are), one shoidd not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their pavilions in such sitirations. But, after all, I am not greatly surprised at the fishiness of their sight, since very slight authority would persuade me there was a period when Holland was all water and the ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. A certain oystcrishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion are almost proof sufficient of this aquatic descent ; and pray tell me for what purpose are such galligaskins as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a flouncing tail and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphin-like termination ? " — Beckford. 14. DUTCH SCHOOL OF PAINTING* — PICTURE-GALLERIES IN HOLLAND. One point to which the traveller in Holland ought certainly to direct his at- tention is the collections of pictures of the Dutch school. Though specimens of its masters are dispersed through all the galleries of Europe, they are nowhere seen in greater perfection than in the museums of the Hague and Amsterdam, and in the numerous private cabinets in these and other Dutch towns. The great excellence of the criticisms on art and descriptions of paintings given by Sir Joshua Reynolds in his " Tour in Holland and Flanders," and their utility and value to all who would form a correct taste and accurate estimation of paint- ings, have induced the editor to incorporate in this work the greater portion of them. The quotations are marked by the letter R. By way of introduction, his remarks on the Dutch school are inserted here ; while those on the Flemish school, and especially on Rubens, are reserved for the description of Belgium. On quitting Holland he observes — "The account of the Dutch pictures is, I confess, more barren of entertainment than I expected. One could' wish to be able to convey to the reader some idea of that excellence, the sight of which has afforded so much pleasure ; but as their merit often consists in the truth of representation alone, whatever praise they deserve, whatever pleasure they give when under the eye, they make but a poor figure in description. It is to the eye only that the works of this school are ad- dressed ; it is not, therefore, to be wondered at that what was intended solely for "the gratification of one sense succeeds but ill when applied to another. "A market-woman with a hare in her hand, a man blowing a trumpet, or a boy blowing bubbles, a view of the inside or outside of a church, are the subjects of some of their most valuable pictures ; but there is still entertainment even in such pictures : however uninteresting then subjects, there is some pleasure in the contemplation of the truth of the imitation. But to the painter they afford like- wise instruction in his profession. Here he may learn the art of colouring and composition, a skilful management of light and shade, and, indeed, all the me- chanical parts of the art, as well as in any other school whatever. The same skill which is practised by Rubens and Titian in their large works is here ex- hibited, though on a smaller scale. Painters should go to the Dutch school to learn the art of painting as they would go to a grammar-school to learn languages. They nrust go to Italy to learn the higher branches of knowledge. " We must be content to make up our idea of perfection from the excellences which are dispersed over the world. A poetical imagination, expression, cha- racter, or even correctness of drawing, are seldom united with that power of colouring which would set off these excellences to the best advantage ; and in this, perhaps, no school ever excelled the Dutch. An artist, by a close examina- * To enter fully into the history of the different schools of art is beyond the purpose and scope of this work : but the excellent Handbooks of Painting bv Eugler (Italian schools edited by Sir Charles Eastlake, P.H.A., and German and Dutch schools edited by Sir Edmond Head), and that of the Spanish and French schools by Sir E. I load, may safely be recommended as indis- pensable companions to those who visit the picture-galleries of the Continent.- 18 14. dutch school of painting. Sect. I. tion of their works, may, in a few hours, make himself master of the principles on which they wrought, which cost them whole ages, and perhaps the experience of a succession of ages, to ascertain. " The most considerable of the Dutch schools are Eembrandt, Teniers, Jan Steen, Ostade, Brouwer, Gerard Douw, Mieris, Metzu, and Terburg : these excel in small conversations ; for landscapes and cattle, Wouwermans, P. Potter, Berchem, Buysdael, Hobbema, Adrian Vandervelde, Both, and Cuyp ; and for buildings, Vanderheyden ; for sea views, W. Vandervelde jun. and Backhuy- sen ; for dead and live game and birds, "Weenix and Hondekoeter ; for flowers, De Heem, Vanhuysum, Bachel Euisch, and Breughel ; and for interiors and perspectives, Peter de Hooghe. These make the bulk of the Dutch school. " I consider those painters as belonging to this school who painted only small conversations and landscapes, &c. Though some of those were born in Flanders, their works are principally found in Holland : and to separate them from the Flemish school, which generally painted figures large as life, it appears to me more reasonable to class them with the Dutch painters, and to distinguish those two schools rather by their style and manner than by the place where the artist happened to be born. " Eembrandt may be considered as belonging to both, or either, as he painted both large and small pictures. "The works of David Teniers jun. are worthy the closest attention of a painter who desires to excel in the mechanical knowledge of his art. His man- ner of touching, or what we call handling, has, perhaps, never been equalled. There is in his pictures that exact mixture of softness and sharpness which is difficult to execute. "Jan Steen has a strong manly style of painting, which might become even the design of Eaffaelle ; and he has shown the greatest skill in composition and management of light and shadow, as well as great truth in the expression and character of his figures. " The landscapes of Euysdael have not only great force, but have a freshness which is seen in scarce any other painter. What excellence in colouring and handling is to be found in the dead game of Weenix ! " A clearness and brilliancy of colouring may be learned by examining the flower-pieces of De Heem, Huysum, and Mignon ; and a short time employed in painting flowers would make no improper part of a painter's study. Eubens's pictures strongly remind one of a nosegay of flowers, where all the colours are bright, clear, and transparent." So many changes have taken place in the situation and condition of the pic- tures described by Sir Joshua, both in private and public collections, since 1781, when he travelled, more especially in consequence of the French revolution, as to detract from the value of his work as a guide ; and it would only confuse the reader to present it entire and in its original form. A careful arrangement and selection of the descriptions has therefore been made, after comparing them on the spot with the pictures as they exist ; and they are here distributed in the places where the paintings are now to be found ; while a great many works of art of the highest excellence, not seen by Sir Joshua, but added to the various collections since his time, are likewise enumerated. 15. SOME PECULIARITIES IN DUTCH MANNERS, ETC. A voyage round half the globe would scarcely transport the English traveller to a scene more strange and enlivening, or more different from what he sees at home, than that presented by the streets of a Dutch town. They are so thoroughly intersected by canals (grachten), that most of them might properly be termed quays, lined with houses and bordered with rows of tall trees. The canals swarm with the picturesque craft whose gilt prows, round stems, and painted sides are rendered so familiar beforehand by the paintings of Cuyp, Vandervelde, Holland. 15. peculiarities in dutch manners, etc. 19 and other Dutch artists. At intervals the canals arc crossed by drawbridges {pphaalbrugerC\ i by which a communication is kept up between one part of the town and another. The intermixture of trees, water, shipping, and houses ; the bustle of loading and unloading vessels in front of the owners' doors ; and the tall red brick houses, with variously pointed gables and variegated tiles, so highly polished that they glitter in the sunshine, have a pleasing as well as novel aspect. Mirrors. — One of the first things that will strike a stranger's eye in a Dutch town are the little mirrors {spions) projecting in front of the windows of almost all the houses. They consist of two pieces of glass placed at an angle of 45° to each other, the one reflecting up, the other clown the street. By means of this contrivance the Dutch lady may see all that passes outside, without the trouble of going to the window, or the necessity of exposing herself to the vulgar gaze ; and, while she sits ensconced behind the gauze blind, may continue her knitting or sewing uninterruptedly. Cleanliness. — It may appear paradoxical to say that cleanliness is carried to excess in Holland ; but the passion for purifying really runs to such a height among Dutch housewives that the assertion is by no means groundless : every- thing has an air of freshness, and the stranger in vain looks for a particle of dust. It will be productive of some amusement to issue out into the streets of a Dutch town early on a Satxirday morning. It is on the last day of the week that an extraordinary schoonmaken (cleaning) takes place. Every house door presents a scene of most energetic activity — the brushing and mopping, the scrubbing and scraping, are not confined to steps and doorways — the pavement, wall, windows, however guiltless they may be of impurity, are all equally subjected to the same course of ablution. Those spots which are out of the reach of hand or broom do not escape a well-aimed stream from the pipe of a small engine-pump, which is always reserved for such service. The unsuspecting stranger who walks the streets is subjected to the danger of perpetual wettings. He looks up to ascer- tain whence the shower descends, and he perceives a diligent servant girl, stretched out of a window two-thirds of her length, and, with eyes intently turned upwards, discharging bowls full of water upon some refractory stain, im- perceptible to all but herself. Spiders must stand a worse chance here than in any other country of the globe. Assiduous war is waged against them, the weapon in use being a broom as long as a boarding pike ; and the forlorn attempt of a solitary spinner to establish himself in the corner of a window, to which elsewhere he might be supposed to have a prescriptive right, is immediately de- tected and scattered to the winds. The purification docs not end without sub- jecting the instrument of cleanliness, the broom itself, however worn out or old, to a course of cleansing. Within doors equal purity and precision reign. The drawing or state room is a sort of sanctum, seldom entered more than once a week, and then only by the housewife and her handmaiden, with list shoos, to avoid scratching the polished floor, and soap and water in their hands. No sooner is the labour of washing and dusting over than the furniture is covered, the win- dows closed, the door locked for another week. In some parts of Holland the visitor is obliged to put off his shoes before he enters the house ; but he is every- where expected to clean them most carefully before admission is granted. In the dairies of North Holland, and especially in the far-famed village of Brock, the traveller will have the best opportunity of appreciating the full extent of Dutch cleanliucss. It does not, however, require a long acquaintance with the Dutch to remark that this persevering and almost painful cleanliness is not always extended to their persons, especially among the lower orders, who indeed are not more cleanly than the same class in England. Goldsmith, who knew the country and people from a residence among them, declares that a Dutchman's house reminded him of a temple dedicated to an ox. One of the essentials of comfort for a Dutch lady is the Vuw Stoof } a square box, open on one side to admit an earthen pan filled with hot embers of turf, 20 15. PECULIARITIES IN DUTCH MANNERS, ETC. Sect I. and perforated at the top to allow the heat to ascend and warm the feet : it serves as a footstool, and is concealed under the dress. The use of it is rarely dispensed with, whatever he the season, in doors or out — the citizen's wife has it carried after her hy her servant to church or the theatre. Hundreds of these fire-pots may he seen piled up in the aisles of the churches. To announce that sickness is in a house, the knocker is not tied up as with us, but a paper is stuck upon the door, containing the daily bulletin of the invalid's health, drawn up by a doctor, which prevents the necessity of ringing and the chance of disturbing the sick person when friends come to inquire after him. In two of the towns of Holland, Haarlem and Enckhuysen, when there is a " lady in the straw," a silk pincushion covered and fringed with plaited lace is exposed at the door — the sex of the infant is marked by the colour ; if a boy red, if a girl white. The house which shows in this manner that the number of its inhabit- ants has been increased by a birth enjoys by ancient law and custom various immunities and privileges. For a certain number of days nothing which is likely to disturb a lady so situated is allowed to approach it. It is protected from legal executions ; no bailiffs dare to molest its inmates ; no soldiers can be billeted in it ; and, when troops pass it on the march, the drums cease to beat. A sort of basket decorated with evergreen, ears of corn, bits of silk and tinsel hung out over a shop door, denotes the recent arrival of herrings, much prized as a delicacy by the Dutch. Before a traveller has been many days in Holland he will probably meet in the street a man dressed in black, with a cocked hat and wig, a long crape hat- band, and a short cloak : he is called the Aanspreker, and his duty is, on the death of any one, to announce the event to the friends or connections of the deceased. The stranger, on first arriving in Holland, is liable to be roused out of his slumbers at night by a strange clatter in the streets. This is nothing- more than the clapper of the Dutch watchman, a wooden board with a flexible hammer or tongue attached to it, which he strikes from time to time to give warning to all thieves to get out of his way. The Kermis (wake or fair) is a sort of Dutch carnival, and exhibits many peculiarities of character. The servant-girls, when being hired, always stipulate with their masters for a certain number of holidays or kermis-days. They swarm at these festivals in company with their " sweethearts ;" indeed, sweethearts are regularly hired for these occasions, so that the damsels who have not one for love may have him for money. The Stork. — One of the peculiarities of Holland is the sort of veneration in which the stork (called ooyevaar) is held by the inhabitants. These birds are not only never injured or disturbed, but a cartwheel or some other contrivance is often placed on the house-top for their use, if not expressly to invite them to settle, at least to prevent their becoming a nuisance, since otherwise the bird, attracted by the warmth of the fire, wotdd naturally deposit the materials of its nest on the chimney -top itself, so as to stop it up, dirty the house, and perhaps set it on fire, which the owner prevents by a stand or rest so placed as to allow the smoke to escape from beneath it. Their huge nests may be seen perched on- the roofs of farm-houses, and even in the town, on the edge of a gable, or near a chimney : it is considered a good omen to a dwelling and its inmates if the stork select it for its habitation ; and to kill one of these birds is looked upon in hardly any other light than a crime. The main army of storks migrate to a southern climate about the middle of August, taking with them the young brood which they have reared. They return in the spring about the month of May. The old ones never fail to seek out their former nests. During a great fire, which, in 1536, destroyed a large part of the town of Delft, the storks were seen bear- ing away their young ones from their nest through the midst of the flames, and, where they were unable to effect this, perishing with them rather than abandon them. Several of the Dutch poets allude to this well-authenticated fact. Holland, 16. music — organs. 17. agriculture. 21 Nightingales, and "fa g fo g birds In general, arc also protected from molestation in Holland; and bird-nesting, and every other injury to the melodists of the W^ood, is severely punished hy local laws, 16. MUSIC — ORGANS. " The lover of music fares meagrely in Holland. National melody and native composition seem alike to have disappeared from the country. The operatic theatres at Amsterdam and the Hagiw are principally occupied (when open) by third-rate German, French, and Italian companies, which may he also met with in the smaller towns, shorn, of course, to provincial dimensions. But those who arc ' curious in organs' will find much to interest them in Holland. The taste for mechanical devices, which has planted bleating clockwork sheep in Mynheer's pleasure-garden, has indulged itself, with more dignity, in commissioning for the churches instruments grand in scale, and curious in the variety of their com- ponent parts. If Holland cannot be said to have possessed a school of organ- builders analogous, for instance, to the famous Alsatian family of the Silbcr- manns, yet the land possessed, during the last century, several men of renown, such as Batti of Utrecht, Christian Muller of Amsterdam (the builder of the Haarlem organ), and Hess of Gouda. The organs at Haarlem, Rotterdam, Am- sterdam, Gouda, Delft, and Utrecht (and I have been told also at Leeuwarden, Beverwijk, and Nijmegen), are all worthy of attention. There arc many treatises on organ-building in Dutch. The players seem generally in no respect worthy of their instruments, yet the powerful and unisonal psalmody sustained by the full organ, and filling the lofty churches with a volume of rich and robust sound, treats those attending public worship to a musical effect such as I, at least, have heard in no other place." — H. F. G. 17. AGRICULTURE. Owing to the peculiar situation and the nature of the soil of Holland the agriculturist has to contend with many difficulties, and consequently to resort to many methods and resources not much attended to in other countries. Travellers, therefore, who take an interest in agriculture may observe much deserving of their attention. Dutch dairy-farms, too, have long been famous. A few of the more remarkable peculiarities and features of the agriculture of the Netherlands are here pointed out. Those who wish for further information on these subjects may consult the following works, from which these observations are extracted : — Oa the Agriculture of the Netherlands, Agric. Journal, vol. ii. pp. 43-64- ; vol. iii. 240-263. Outlines of Flemish Husbandry — Library of Useful Knowledge. British Husbandry, vol. iii. The climate of the Netherlands, from the borders of France to the northern part of Holland along the coast and for 50 or 60 miles inland, differs little from that of Kent or Essex. It is warmer in summer and colder in winter than the central part of England. The quantity of rain which falls there is not so great, especially in winter, as in those parts of England which lie on the opposite • oast; but the snow covers the ground for a much longer time. Hence a ma- terial difference exists in the time of ploughing and sowing. The quality of the soil is various. Towards the northern part of Flanders and Antwerp, and the southern part of Holland, it is almost as barren as the sand of the sea-shore. If it were not for a small portion of mud occasionally mixed with this soil, the water would freely percolate through it, and no vegetation could be supported. In proportion to the quantity of the mud, which is a very tine clay, with a portion of decayed shells and organic matter, the soil is more or ! tile; and when the mud enters largely into it, a rich compact loam is formed. In many places there are alternate narrow strata of sand and loam, which being mixed together form a very productive soil. When the sand is deep, with little or no loam near the surface, it is a tedious 22 - 17. agriculture. Sect. I. process to bring the land into cnltivation. Much of the sandy heaths which lie between Antwerp and the Maas remain in a state of nature, producing nothing but scanty tufts of heath interspersed with a few very coarse grasses. Some spots have been brought under cultivation by the most indefatigable industry. By trenching and levelling, mixing the heavier soils with the sand, by a careful addition of manure both solid and liquid, and by first sowing such plants as will grow on this barren soil, a stratum of productive soil is gradually collected. If manure cannot be had, broom is first sown. This grows on the most barren soils ; in three years it is cut for fagots for the bakers and brickmakers. It has some- what improved the soil, which is next sown with buckwheat, or even with rye. After this, clover and potatoes follow ; and these crops furnishing manure, im- provement goes on rapidly. If about 20 small cart-loads of dung can be brought on each acre of the newly-trenched ground, the progress is much more rapid. Potatoes are then the first crop. Then follows rye, after the land has been manured to the same extent as before. In this clover is sown in the succeeding spring. After rye comes buckwheat, without any manure ; then potatoes again, manured as at first ; and the same rotation of crops follows. It is evident how important a good supply of manure is to success in cultivat- ing such lando The most rapid improver of loose sands is liquid manure. Ac- cordingly, the greatest attention is paid to the collection and preparation of manure, more especially of liquid manure. Every farm has one or more capa- cious tanks, whose construction will be found worthy of the attention of the agri- culturist. The instruments of tillage are few and simple, especially the ploughs, which, however, are well adapted to the light soil of the country. An instru- ment, called a traineau in Belgium, is used to level the surface of the light soils, without too much compressing them. A rodded hurdle is also used for the same purpose. The harrows are mostly triangular, with wooden teeth set at an acute angle forwards. The mollebart, which is used in the levelling of newly-trenched land, is an instrument peculiarly Flemish or Dutch : it is a very large wooden shovel, in form like a housemaid's dustpan, with a stout long handle. To fully understand its use, it must be seen worked by a skilful hand. The spade and shovel are also largely used in the tillage of the Netherlands. Considerable attention is paid in the Netherlands, but especially in Flanders, to a proper rota- tion of crops. The rotations observed are founded on long experience. Manure, both solid and liquid, is applied constantly to the soil in great abundance. It is by this means that the character of the poor soils becomes in a few years entirely changed. Great attention is paid to the choice of seed. The quantity of seed on a given extent of land in the Netherlands is much smaller than it usually is in England. This is owing to the greater attention paid to prepare the land for receiving the seed. The surface is brought to a finer tilth, by repeated harrow- ing with light wooden harrows. Mixed seed is sometimes sown, as a mixture of wheat and rye, which, indeed, is known in Yorkshire, where it is called meslin. In Flanders it is called meteil. The sowing of carrots amongst a growing crop is peculiar to the Netherlands. The Friesland oats are well known in England as of a very good quality for brewing, and great crops of them are raised in the rich alluvial soils of Holland. Chicory is much cultivated, the dried roots of which are roasted and used instead of coffee. The root contains a strong bitter, and is used instead of hops in beer. It is sown about the beginning of April, and the roots are taken up in September, and are then of the size of a small carrot. The leaves, if eaten by cows, give a bad taste to their milk. Flax, hemp, and the oily seeds, especially colza or rape, are also extensively cultivated in the Netherlands. In many parts of the Netherlands, owing to the constant presence of water, the soil is better calculated for meadows than arable land. In these meadows, especially in N. Holland and Friesland, a very fine breed of milch cows and oxen is fed. The quantity of butter exported, and its value in foreign markets, prove that the operations of the dairy are well conducted. The rich Holland. 17. agriculture. 23 soil, no doubt, gives a good quality to the butter ; but tbis is not the only cause of its superiority. The extraordinary cleanliness of every part of a dahy, and its furniture, show the unremitted attention of the dairy woman. Besides this, the stables, the cows, and even the litter, arc kept so clean that it is a pleasure to walk through them ; and the family often make one end of the cow-house their usual sitting-room, having a fire-place at one end, and always at least one com- fortable bed for a labourer or servant, who always sleeps in the cow-house. The arrangement of a Dutch dairy is as follows : — The building is generally bike a large barn, with a roof coming to within 7 or 8 feet of the ground, some- times tiled or slated, but more often thatched with reeds, which make it warm in winter. Through the middle, from end to end, is a space 10 or 12 feet broad, paved with hard bricks. The heads of the cows are placed towards this middle space, from which all their food is given to them in a shallow trough made of bricks, with a gentle fall from end to end to allow of sweeping and washing. As straw is scarce, the cows lie on smooth bricks laid sloping, and slightly hollow in the middle ; and their beds are made of such a length, that when the cows stand their tails hang over a gutter to receive the dung and urine. The clean- liness is carried to such a degree, that in many cow-houses there are pulleys, and lines over them, with a weight at one end, the other being fastened to the end of the tail of a cow to keep it up, and prevent its dipping into the gutter behind. Everything which falls from the cow is swept away immediately, and the water arising from the constant washing of every part of the cow-house runs into a tank, and serves to dilute the dung, which, after a time, is pumped up, and either earned in water-carts to the meadows, or mixed up with earth and the bitter of the horses into compost. The cows usually come into their winter quarters in November, and are put out to graze in May, if the weather is mild. When first the cows are let out into the meadows, a piece of coarse cloth is put over their loins, and tied round their bodies, to prevent the injurious effects of cold dews and fogs ; when the air is warmer this is discontinued. The milk-room is almost always vaulted, and sunk somewhat under the level of the ground. The floor is laid with porous tiles, and, being kept wet, the eva- poration keeps the cellar cool. The milk is brought from the cow-house in large brass vessels in the shape of the Etruscan water-cans, which, when full, cany the milk without much shaking. Salt is added to the butter as soon as made : no Dutchman would touch butter which had no salt in it, however fresh it might be. The butter made in summer, when the cows feed in the pastures, is of a very fine golden colour and agreeable taste. When the pastures are not so rich, this colour is sometimes given artificially, but the natural coloiu- cannot be imitated so as to deceive any but the inexperienced. The best Dutch cheese is a new milk cheese made near Gouda, and called Gouda cheese. The little round cheeses are made near Edam. Some of the cream has been subtracted and made into butter, and the cheese is what would be called half-meal cheese in England. It is very strongly salted by soaking it in brine. The common skim-milk cheeses have seeds of cummin mixed with the curd, and arc made of the size of our Cheshire cheeses. It is a poor cheese, and seldom exported. Very large oxen are fatted in the rich meadows of N. Holland. They have large bones, and are deficient in some points considered essential by the feeder for a cattle show ; but the chief object of the breed is milk. The meat is ex- cellent. The sheep of the Netherlands are almost universally large, long-legged animals, with dropping cars, which have nothing but their size to recommend them. The horses in the Netherlands may be divided into two distinct breeds, — the heavy Flanders horses, which are either light chesnut coloured, with white tails I 24 ROUTE 1. — LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. Sect. I. and manes, or roan. They are bulky and inactive, and inferior to the Suffolk punch, which breed, no doubt, came originally from Flanders, but has been improved by care in breeding. The Friesland horses are mostly black, and some of them are very strong and active, and will do much work and draw very heavy loads. A breed of very fast trotters is encouraged by trotting matches. The Dutch waggons are light, with a very narrow track, to accommodate them to the narrow roads on the tops of the dykes. A pole would be a great incumbrance in turning within a very narrow space ; hence a curious substitute has been adopted. A very short crooked pole rises in front, and the driver directs it with his foot. A person unaccustomed to its use could never drive a Dutch waggon, which re- quires great skill and judgment to steer it. A drunken driver is discovered a long way off by the oscillations of his waggon, which frequently runs off the dyke, and is overturned into the ditch on either side, the horses having no power to keep it straight when the crooked pole has not a steady foot to guide the front wheels. The Dutchmen usually make their horses trot in the waggon when not heavily loaded. KOUTES THROUGH HOLLAND. ROUTE 1. LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. Steamers 3 times a week in summer. The General Steam Navigation Com- pany's vessels run from Brunswick "Wharf, Blackwall, at 10 precisely, every Wednesday and Saturday, re- turning also on those days. There is also another steamer on the same days from off the Tower. The Batavier goes every Sunday, and returns from Rotterdam on Tuesday. The average passage is from 24 to 30 hours, and the vessel usually reaches the bar at the mouth of the Maas in 24. The Maas (French Meuse) is the estuary through which a large portion of the combined waters of the Rhine and Meuse find an outlet to the sea. The bar at its mouth is at times diffi- X3ult to pass ; at low tide there is but 7 feet water upon it. The first ap- pearance of Holland exhibits nothing but a strip of land on each side, lite- rally " a willow-tufted bank," barely raised above the water. The low sandy mud bank projecting into the sea on your left as you enter the Maas is called the Hoek van Hol- land. I. The small fortified town of Brielle, on the left bank of the river (right hand in ascending), soon appears in sight. Here custom - house officers come on board to fasten down the hold of the vessel, and to examine the ship's papers. There is a ferry over the Maas at this place, and the pilots, who carry vessels up the river, reside here. It was the birth-place of Admirals Tromp and de Witt, and is historically re- markable as the first place which fell into the hands of the Dutch ; having been taken from the Spaniards, 1572, by a bold attack of the Water GKieusen, under the command of William de la Marck, who had been expelled from the ports of England by Queen Eliza- beth. It may thus be considered as the nucleus of the Republic of Hol- land. This exploit was the first in- stance of open resistance to the power of Philip II. of Spain, and led the way for the liberation of the country from the Spanish yoke. In 1585 Brielle was delivered up to Queen Elizabeth as one of the cautionary towns, and re- mained in the hands of the English till 1616. About 5 miles above Brielle is the entrance to the New Canal, crossing the island of Voorn, by which large vessels pass from the Maas to the spa- cious harbour of Hellevoetsluis, and avoid the dangerous navigation arising from the bar at the mouth of the Maas. The largest Indiamen reach the sea in one day from Rotterdam. At Helle- voetsluis is a royal dock and arsenal. Holland, ROUTE 1 . — BOTTERDA M . Zo It is the principal naval station of the Dutch on the S., being to Rotter- dam and the mouths of the Rhine and Maas what the Holder is to Amster- dam and the Zuider-Zee. William III. embarked there for England in 1688. rt. Higher up is Vlaardingen, the head-quarters of the Dutch Herring Fishery, for which it fits out annually from 80 to 100 vessels ; the total num- ber from the whole of Holland in the present reduced state of the fisheries falls short of 200. On the 10th or 11th of June the officers employed in the herring fleet repair to the Stadhuis, and take an oath to obey the laws of the fishery ; on the 14th they hoist their flags, and go to church to pray for a prosperous season ; on the 15th they set sail, and the day is kept as a holiday by the townspeople. The fishery lasts from June 2 till October 30. The fish first caught are sent off in swift - sailing yachts to Holland, where there arrival is awaited with the most anxious expectation. "Watchmen arc set on Vlaardingen steeple to look out for the vessel; the cargo usually sells for 800 florins,and the first kegs of herrings are sent to the King of Holland and his ministers. Still nearer to Rotterdam, though not at the river side, is Schiedam (12,000 inhab.), famous for its distilleries of the finest Geneva, of which there are not less than 100 in this small town : 30,000 pigs are said to be fed on the refuse grain after the spirit has been extracted. The town, surrounded by windmills, is never free from the smoke issuing from its numerous tall chimneys. At a turn of the river Rotterdam comes suddenly into sight. The Maas in front of the town is from 30 to 40 ft. deep, so that the largest India vessels approach close to the houses, and the steamers land their passengers on the fine quay called the Boompjes, extend- ing along the river a mile and a quar- ter. It is shaded with a line of vigor- ous elms, planted 1615, from which it gets its name (little trees is the mean- ing of the word; though, since the name was conferred, they have grown to a large size). It may, perhaps, re- call to mind Chevne Walk, at Chelsea, [n. g.] though on a larger scale, with the ad- vantage of having deep water close in shore. It forms a much frequented promenade for the inhabitants of Rot- terdam. Some of the best houses and principal inns arc situated on this hand- some quay. Here also is the Custom- house, to which the baggage of travel- lers is conveyed (§ 3), but the examina- tion is not usually very troublesome. Rotterdam. — Inns : Hotel des Pays- Bas : — beds, 1 gr. to 1 gr. 10 st. ; break- fast or tea, with bread and butter, 14 st. ; table d'hote, 1 gr. 10 st. ; dinner in private, 2£ gr. to 3 gr. New Bath Hotel ; charges nearly the same asPays- Bas. H. de V Europe. — These three are on the Quai called the Boompjes, near the steamers. Scheppcrshuis, Spaan- sche Kade ; — Zwijnshoofd, on the great market; — St. Lucas. Rotterdam, the second city of Hol- land in population and commerce, lies on the rt. bank of the Maas ; it has 78,000 inhab., and is distant about 24 m. from the sea. It is built in the form of a triangle, one side of which rests on the Maas ; it consists of as many canals as streets ; the three prin- cipal ones called Leuve, Oude, and Nicuwe havens (harbours), open into the Maas, and communicate with the various canals which intersect the town ; thus not only affording a con- stant supply of water to the canals, but, by the ebbing and flowing of the tide, keeping up a circulation, and preserving the water from becoming stagnant and putrid ; the tide rises commonly 10 or 12 ft. The communication between different parts of the town is maintained by a great number of drawbridges sus- pended by heavy beams of wood over- head ; but across several of the havens, which are too wide for a drawbridge, a ferry-boat plies (and 1 cent is charged for the passage). The canals serve as docks, being deep enough to admit vessels of large burden close to the doors of the houses and magazines of their owners, so that they can discharge their cargoes with little trouble ami cost. Its ready access to the sea gives Rotterdam a great advantage as a port ; and since the separation from Belgium 26 ROUTE 1. — ROTTERDAM. Sect. I. it lias been rapidly rising in wealth and population, at the expense of its rival Antwerp. Indeed, since steam has aided inland navigation, the position of Botterdam has become superior to that of Amsterdam, and it and Hamburg now form the great inlets and outlets of . Germany. The foreign commerce of Eotterdam now chiefly depends on the connection with Batavia, and that trade at present employs about 80 of the finest merchant-ships in the world, of the burden of from 500 to 1000 tons. They are admirably equipped, and make the voyage to and from India in 9 months upon the average. An increas- ing trade is carried on in the valuable productions of the East, the chief of which are sugar, coffee, and spices. The West India trade, formerly carried on with Surinam, is almost extinct. The trade in provisions is very great : much corn is brought down the Ehine from the interior of Germany ; and from the upper parts contiguous to that river a vast supply of timber for ship- building is conveyed. This is an im- portant branch of industry, at present very flourishing, as near 100 of the best class of vessels are now building in the different dockyards. A stranger who has never seen a Dutch town before will find more amusement in merely walking through the streets than in any of the sights which guide - books are usually con- tented to enumerate. He will be struck with the novel and picturesque combination of water, bridges, trees, and shipping, in the heart of a city. He will remark the quaint buildings with gables facing the street, and often overhanging the foundation more than a foot; the canals traversed by innu- merable drawbridges opening and shut- ting to allow the passage of vessels ; the cart running upon sledges instead of wheels, with barrows of water placed in front, which is jerked out through several small holes, so as to sprinkle the pavement as the horse moves on, and diminish the friction. The shoes of the horses, which it is not improbable he may compare to pattens ; the wooden sabots of the peasants ; the brass milk- pails, glistening like polished armour; the little mirror fastened before the window of every house (§ 15) ; and the rude busts of Turks' or Moors' heads in front of the chemists' shops, called from their open mouths Gapers, are all novelties not to be met with in his own country. An enormous dyke or dam, erected at the junction of a small stream called the Eotte with the Maas, whence comes the name Rotterdam, passes through the centre of the town. It originally protected the country behind it from inundations during high tides of the Maas. The Hoogstraat (High Street) stands upon this dam ; and the newest part of the town is built on the ground extending between it and the Boompjes, and gained from the Maas since the dam was erected. The objects worthy of observation are, The statue of Erasmus, who was a native of this place. It is of bronze, and stands on a wide bridge over a canal, which serves the purposes of a market-place, called the Groote Markt, near the centre of the town. Eras- mus's real name was Gerrit Gerritz, which, in accordance with the custom of the learned of his time, he translated into Desiderius Erasmus. The house in which he was born (1467) still exists ; it is turned into a gin - shop, and is situated in the Breede Kerk Straat, leading to the Great Church. It bears a small statue of the scholar, with the inscription, " Haec est parva domus, magnus qu§, natus Erasmus." The Great Church of St. Lawrence, Groote Kerk (built in 1472), of brick, contains the monuments of the Ad- mirals de "Witt and Cortenaer, and Vice - Admiral (Schoudtbijnacht) van Brakel, all erected to their memoiy by the States General, and bearing epi- taphs in old Dutch verse. The very fine Organ, finished about 1840, accord- ing to some is superior in size and tone to that of Haarlem, the largest metal pipe being 36 ft. long and 17 inches in diameter, and the number of stops 90, and of pipes 6500 ! It is 90 ft. high. The organist will play at any time in consideration of a fee of 10 guilders for the hour. They who do not intend to visit Haarlem will do well to hear this Holland. ROUTE 1. — ROTTERDAM. 27 instrument. The architectural details of the church, though much mutilated, arc fine, and, like almost all the great churches of Holland, have been too much neglected. In this and other Dutch churches it will be remarked that the coats of arms on the monuments arc all defaced : this was the act of the French republicans during their occupation of Holland. The tower affords an exten- sive view of the country around, which, in the direction of Delft and Gouda, as in many other parts of Holland, is almost equally divided between land and water. It is truly dcbateable ground — intersected in all directions by canals, and trees in straight avenues, its flat surface dotted with farm and summer houses, while an occasional steeple and a number of windmills alone break the level line of a Dutch horizon. The other public buildings are, the Exchange, where business is transacted daily at 3 (scientific persons visiting Rotterdam should see the collection of philosophical instruments, and the library, in the room above it), — the Stadhnis or Town Hall, a large new building with a Composite portico, — and the house formerly occupied by the East India Company, on the Boompjes, close to the Hotel des Pays-Bas, turned into warehouses since the company was broken up ; but none of them deserve either minute description or examina- tion. The philosopher Bayle, when exiled from France, ended his days here, in one of the houses on the Boompjes. The Dockyard is inferior to that of Amsterdam, and on a much smaller scale than similar establishments in England. It is shown to strangers on producing an order from a respectable householder. A relic is preserved here of the successfid attack made by the Dutch upon the English fleet in the Medway, 1667, when they burnt the magazines at Chatham, along with several men-of-war. It is a portion of the stern of the Royal Charles, the Admiral's ship, which was captured by them. The Pictures bequeathed to the town by M. Boy mans, consisting of works of Dutch masters — good Jan Steen, Paul Potter, Wwvermam—m&y be seen daily, except Monday, on payment of a small sum. M. Nottcbohn possesses an ex- cellent private collection of the modern Dutch and Flemish schools. Half a day will suffice to see all that is remarkable in Rotterdam. There are so many English here, that the language is very generally spoken and understood. They have two churches ; a Presbyterian church, which has existed more than two cen- turies, and an Episcopalian, on the E. side of the Haring-vliet, surmounted by the arms of Queen Anne and the Duke of Marlborough : these, though served by ministers from Great Britain, form part of the National Church es- tablishment, the salaries being paid by the Dutch government. The Scotch Presbyterian church is on the Schottsche Bilk. The water of the Maas, which is drunk here, will cause considerable an- noyance to persons unaccustomed to it : travellers should avoid it (§ 6). In the suburbs are many places of entertainment, with Gardens, not un- like tea - gardens in England, except that some of them are freqiiented by the higher classes of citizens, and par- take of the nature of a club. Here arc found billiard and ball rooms, skittle- grounds, refreshments of various kinds, and much smoking. There is a 2)ublic walk outside the Ooster (eastern) gate, called Plantage, whence a good view is obtained of Rot- terdam. There arc several Clubs here, where English as Avell as continental news- papers are taken in ; a stranger may be introduced by a member, and ge- nerally by the master of the hotel. This was the native place of Adrian van der Wcrf, van dor Xeer, Netscher, and Zachtleeven, painters, and of James Crofts, Duke of Monmouth, son of Charles II. by Lucy Waters. The Post Office (het Postkantoor) is on the Wijnhaven, in the Wijnstraat. Curiosities from China and Japan may be purchased of De Groot, 342, Hoogstraat, opposite the "Walloon church. c 2 28 ROUTE 2. — ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. DELFT. Sect. 1. Trekschuiten (§5) start nearly every hour in the day to Delft and the Hague ; the fare to the Hague is 20 stivers. Diligences daily to Utrecht, Nij- megen, Gouda, Antwerp, and Breda. Steamboats to Mjmegen every morn- ing in summer; every other morning during the rest of the year. Those of the New Dusseldorf Company are best. (See E. 12.) Steamers daily to Moerdijk in 3 hours ; to Middelburg, in Zealand, in 9 ; twice a day to Dort ; to Gouda and back daily ; 6 times a month to Havre and Dunkirk ; to London every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday; to Antwerp daily, in 8 to 10 hours (see R. 18) ; to Bois le Due (Her- togenbosch) daily, in 8 hours ; to Hull once a week. A steam ferry-boat plies across the Maas to Katendrecht every \ hour, starting from a point a little below the town : the fare is 15 cents. The island of IJsselmonde, which here forms the I, bank of the Maas, though but 15 m. long by 7 wide, is said to be surrounded and intersected by dykes measuring 200 m. in length. ROUTE 2. ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM, BY THE HAGUE, LEIDEN, AND HAARLEM. — RAILROAD — (iJZERENSPOORWEG) . 5 trains a day ; to the Hague, 13 m., in 45 min. ; to Amsterdam in 2| hrs. Length of railway from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, 92,230 Eng. yards, or about 52 \ Eng. m. This railway, the first that was con- structed in Holland, is due to the en- terprise of a public company, called " The Railway Company of Holland," whose affairs are managed by a council of administration consisting of 5 com- missaries and the engineer. The diffi- culties of construction arising from the peculiar physical character of the locality were the least that the company had to contend against, owing to the hostility of the proprietors of the land. The company was formed on the 8th Aug. 1837, at Amsterdam, and the part be- tween Haarlem and Amsterdam was opened 20th Sept. 1839. The engineer was the M.I.C.E. Chevalier F The gauge is "W. Conrad, 2 metres = 6 1 ft. Eng., from centre to centre of the rails, which rest upon longitudinal tim- ber bearings, and the cost of each Eng. mile of single line of railway laid was 2394/. 10s. Trehschuiten to Delft in 2 hrs. The old road to Delft is pleasantly varied with villas and gardens, and runs for a considerable distance alongside of the canal, as, indeed is the ease with most roads in Holland. Station. Schiedam. — The town is on the 1., siurounded by windmills, and enveloped in everlasting smoke, rising from its distilleries of gin (jenever, i. e, juniper). See p. 25. -Inn, Gouden Molen On the Schie, Stat. Delft (Golden Mill), from Rotterdam, said to derive its dig. This town, tery," has been 8 m. 17,000 inhab.; and name from delven, to "the parent of pot- supplanted, even in Holland itself, in its chief article of pro- duce, to which it has given a name (Delft- ware, in Dutch plateel), by the superior manufactures of England, and the improved taste introduced by Wedg- wood in the making of pottery. All the earthenware now made here is of the coarser kind, and does not employ more than 200 persons. The streets appear empty and dull, but there is enough to amuse a traveller for an hour or two. Pepys, in his Diary, 18th May, 1660, describes the sights of Delft : — " To the church, where Van Tromp lies en- tombed, with a fine monument. His epitaph is concluded thus : — ' Tandem bello Anglico tantum non victor, certe invictus, vivere et vincere desiit.' There is a sea-fight cut in marble, with the smoke the best expressed that ever I saw in my life. From thence to the great church, that stands in a fine great market-place over against the Stadt- house ; and there I saw a stately tomb of the old Prince of Orange, of marble and brass, wherein, among other va- rieties, there are the angels with their trumpets, expressed as it were crying. Here were very fine organs in both the churches. It is a most sweet town, with bridges and a river in every street." Holland. ROUTE 2. — DELFT. CHURCHES. 29 The New Church (b. 1381) in the great square contains the costly monu- ment, clustered with columns and rich in marble, but in very bad taste, erected by the United Provinces to the me- mory of "William I., Prince of Orange, who was assassinated at Delft, 10th July, 1584. His statue in marble, in full armour, with sword and sceptre, reclines upon the tomb ; and at his feet is the figure of his favourite little dog, whose affection saved his master's life from the midnight attack of some Spanish assassins, who had planned to murder him while asleep in his camp, near Mechlin, 1572. The Spaniards, advancing stealthily under cover of the darkness, had nearly reached the tent, when the vigilance of the dog, whose instinct appears to have told him that they were enemies, detected their ap- proach. He instantly jumped upon the bed, and, by barking violently and tearing off the clothes with his teeth and feet, roused his master in time to enable him to escape. The faithful animal pined to death after his master's decease. The inscription on the tomb makes mention of the dog's attachment. There is a second and better stahic of the prince under the arch at the head of the tomb, in a sitting posture. Beneath is the burial vault of the present royal family of Holland. Here also is the simple monument of Grotius, who was a na- tive of Delft, and is interred in this church. This church contains a fine organ. In the Old Church (Oude Kerk), which has a leaning tower, is the mo- nument of Admiral Tromp, the veteran of 32 sea-fights, who conquered the English fleet under Blake, in the Downs, 1652, and afterwards sailed through the channel with a broom at his mast- head, to signify that he had swept the sea of the English. He was killed at last in an engagement, represented in bas-relief on his tomb, between Schcven- ing and the mouth of the Maas, in which the English were victorious. In the same church are buried Piet Hein, who from a fisher-lad of Dclshaven rose to be admiral, captured the Spanish silver fleet, and died for his country; and Lcemvenhoek, the naturalist, also a native of Delft. The Grand Pensionary Hcinsius, the friend and fellow-coun- cillor of Marlborough and Eugene, was also bom here. The house in which William Prince of Orange was assassinated is nearly opposite to the W. end of the Old Church ; it is called the Prinssenhof, and is now a barrack. After crossing the court, a small door on the rt. leads to the spot where the murder was committed. The identical staircase which he was about to ascend after din- ner, and the passage where the mur- derer Balthazar Gcraarts stood, — so near to his victim that the pistol must almost have touched his body, — will assuredly be looked upon with interest by every traveller. An inscription, on a stone let into the wall, records the event ; and 3 holes, bored in another stone below it, pass for the identical marks of the fatal bullets which killed him. He expired in the arms of his sister, and his wife (the daughter of Coligny, who had been murdered in a similar manner, and in her sight, at the St. Bartholomew massacre). The last words of the hero were, "Mon Dicu, mon Dieu, ayez pitie de moi et de ce pauvre peuple ! " In the month after his assassination the states of Holland met at Delft, and placed his son Maurice, then a youth of 17, at the head of af- fairs. On an island surrounded by canals, near the entrance of the town, is the State Arsenal of Holland, an extensive and gloomy building, looking like a fortress, and ornamented with the arms of the ancient Dutch republic. It was originally the Dutch East India House. Okey, Barkstead, and Corbet, the re- gicides, settled at Delft. They were seized in an alehouse here by Sir George Downing, the English envoy at the Hague, sent to London, and executed at Tyburn. Between Delft and the Hague (about 44 m.) the trckschuit will be found an agreeable and good conveyance. The canal from Delft to Leiden is by many considered as being the Fossa Corbulonis, and probably a part of the ancient excavation has been adopted. Corbulus employed his soldiers in exca- 30 ROUTE 2. —THE HAGUE. THE BINNENHOF. Sect. I. vating this canal in order to unite the Rhine and the Maes. (Tacitus, AnnaL, 11, 20.) The country is even more thickly spread over with cottages, villas, coun- try seats, and gardens (§ 13), than on the other side of Delft. On the left of the canal and high road, hut on the right of the railroad, appears the spire of the church of Ryswyk, near which the famous treaty of peace was signed (1697) between England, France, Hol- land, Germany, and Spain, in a house of the Prince of Orange, now removed ; its site is marked by an obelisk. 24 m. The Hague. Stat. (La Haye, in French; S'Gravenhage in Dutch; Haag in German.) Inns : — Hotel Bellevue, near the park, comfortable ; bed, 1 fl. 20 c. ; double-bedded room, 2 fl. ; dinner, 2 fl. ; tea, 60 c. ; break- fast, 70 c. ; wax lights, 40 c. ; table- d'hote at 4. Oude Doelen, very com- fortable. Nieuwe Doelen, complaints of the attendance. (Doel is the Dutch for the bull's eye in the target, derived from times when archery was the fa- vourite amusement, and the inn the place of resort for the various companies or guilds of marksmen when the con- test was decided.) Hotel cle V Europe, in the Lange Houtstraat, close to the Mu- seum : bed, 1 fl. ; breakfast (without meat or eggs), 60 c. ; table d'hote, If fl. Mar Belial Tarenne ; Keizershof (Imperial Hotel) ; Twee Steden (Two Towns) ; Heerenlogement (Gentleman's Lodging). The population is 61,000. Though long the residence of the Stadtholders, and now of the King of Holland, up to the beginning of the present century the Hague ranked only as a village, because it had neither corporation nor walls, and did not re- turn members to the States General ; Louis Bonaparte, however, during his rule, conferred on it the privileges of a city. Other Dutch cities owe their rise to commerce or manufactures ; this to the residence of a court, the presence of the Government and States General, and the abode of foreign ministers. Its origin may be traced to a hunting-seat of the Counts of Holland, built here in 1250 ; and its name to the Counts' Hedge (S' Gra- ven Hage) surrounding their park. The principal streets are, the Voor- hout, lined with trees and bordered with splendid hotels; the Prinssen- gracht, Kneuterdijk, and Noord Einde. The Vijverberg (hill of the fish-pond) is a square or place, with avenues of trees forming a shady promenade on the one side, and a piece of water on the other. It is in Holland alone that so gentle a rise in the ground as is here perceptible would be dignified with the name of a hill. On the southern side of the Yijverberg stands the Binnenhof, so called because it formed the "inner court" of the Count's palace, an irregular -building of various dates. The Gothic hall in the centre of it, now used for the drawing of the lottery (Loterijzaal), and criminal court (Hoog Geregtshof), is the oldest building in the Hague, and the only re- maining fragment of the original palace of the Counts of Holland. It is a fine room, with a pointed roof, supported by a Gothic framework of wood, somewhat in the style of that of Westminster Hall. It possesses some interest in an histo- rical point of view ; since, upon a scaf- folding erected opposite to the door, on a level with the top of the steps, the virtuous and inflexible Bameveldt, Grand Pensionary of Holland, was be- headed in 1618, at the age of 72. This event is a stain on the character of Prince Maurice of Nassau ; but it is not true, as some have asserted, that he looked on from a side window during his rival's execution. The people be- held it with tears ; many came to gather the sand wet with his blood, to keep it carefully in phials ; and the crowd of those who had the same curiosity con- tinued next day, notwithstanding all they could do to hinder them. The Chambers of the States General or Dutch parliament, and several of the public offices, are situated in the Bin- nenhof. The public are freely ad- mitted to the debates of the Second Chamber. Between the Buitenhof (Outer Court) and the Vijverberg is an old gate-tower, called Gevangepoort (prison-gate), re- markable as the place in which Corne- lius De Witt was confined, 1 672, on a false charge of conspiring to assassinate the Holland. route 2. — the HAGUE, museum of pictures. 31 Prince of Orange. The populace, in- cited to fury by the calumnies circu- lated against him and his brother John, the Grand Pensionary, broke into the prison at a moment when the latter had been enticed hither by a report that his brother's life was in danger, dragged them forth, and literally tore them to pieces, with ferocity more befitting wild beasts than human beings. The State Prisons, besides the interest they possess from historical associations, are curious, on account of " the tortures in- flicted on the prisoners (within the last two centuries), not surpassed in cruelty even at Venice in its worst times : the rack, the pulley, the oubliettes, &c, are still shown." — L. Fm. A few yards from the spot where the De Witts were murdered, in the Kneutcrdijk, opposite the Hartogstraatje, may be seen the mo- dest mansion of the Grand Pensionary Dc Witt, who, though the first citizen of the richest country in the world, and perhaps the profoundest statesman in Europe, baffling the encroaching policy of France, and frightening London with the roar of his cannon in the Thames, was never seen in public but in the most homely dress, kept only a single servant, and rarely made use of a coach. Barnevcldt lived in a house which now forms part of the hotel of the Minister of Finance in the Lang Voorhout. The Picture Gallery and Museum are situated in the building called the Maurits Iiuis, from Prince Maurice of Nassau, Governor of Brazil, and afterwards of Cleve, by whom it was built. It is between the Plein and the Yijver. They are open to the pub- lic daily, except Sunday, from 9 to 3, on Saturday from 10^ to 1. The Picture Gallery is almost entirely confined to the works of Dutch mas- ters, and contains some of their finest works. It is not possible to point out the rooms which contain the works here mentioned, as there is nothing to dis- tinguish the rooms. The numbers are those of 1848. The most remarkable pictures are, — Paul Potter: (123.) Young Bull,— his masterpice, remarkable as one of the few examples in which the artist painted animals as large as life. " There can- not be a greater contrast to a very ge- neralised mode of treatment than that displayed in the celebrated picture of 'The Bull,' by P. Potter, which ap- proaches the nearest to deception of any really fine work of art I have seen. The painter seems to have omitted no- thing that he saw in nature which art could represent, and yet its reality is free from any still-life unpleasantness. It is admired for its truth, but to a cultivated eye it has that something more than mere truth that is indis- pensable to a work of art ; it has great taste throughout — displayed no less in the general arrangement of the masses and forms than in the most minute particulars. The grandeur of the sky, and the beautiful treatment of the distant meadow, show that the painter had the power of seizing the finest characteristics of the large features of nature, while the exquisite manner in which the beautiful forms of the leaves of a dock, and their colours, com- pose with, one of the legs of the young bull, display as fine an eye for her most intricate beauties. Throughout the picture, indeed, we see that the hand has been directed by the eye of a consummate artist, and not merely by a skilful copyist." Prof. Leslie, R.A. This picture was carried to Paris by the French, and was classed by them fourth in value of all the paintings then in the Louvre; the Transfiguration, by Ra- phael, ranking first; the Commu- nion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino, second ; and Titian's Peter Martyr, third. They who know those three great works will probably be startled at the place thus assigned to this picture. Paul Potter's Bull has been valued at 5000/. ; the Dutch government, it is stated, of- fered Napoleon 4 times that sum if he woidd consent to suffer it to remain at the Hague. D. T.— (124). The Cow drinking ; " finely painted, remarkable for the strong reflection in the water." R.* — Rembrandt. (127.) A Surgeon, Professor Tulp, attended by his Pupils, proceeding to dissect a Dead Body. Though an unpleasing subject, it is a * The quotations marked R. are derived from Sir Joshua Reynolds' " Tour in Holland and Flanders." 32 ROUTE 2. — THE HAGUE. MUSEUM OF PICTURES. Sect. I. most "wonderful painting, and one of the artist's finest works. " To avoid making it an object disagreeable to look at, the figure is but just cut at the wrist. There are seven other portraits, coloured like nature itself, fresh and highly finished ; one of the figures be- hind has a paper in his hand, on which are written the names of the rest. Rembrandt has also added his own name, with the date, 1632. The dead body is perfectly well drawn (a little fore-shortened), and seems to have been just washed. Nothing can be more truly the colour of dead flesh. The legs and feet, which are nearest the eye, are in shadow ; the principal light, which is on the body, is by that means preserved of a compact form." R. Physicians assert that they can ascer- tain that it is the body of a person who died from inflammation of the lungs. This picture formerly stood in the An- atomy School (Snijkamer) of Amster- dam, but was purchased by the King for 32,000 guilders (2700/.) — (130.) Portrait of an officer with hat and feathers: "for colouring and force no- thing can exceed it." R. — (128.) St. Si- meon receiving the Infant Jesus in the Temple. — (129.) " A study of Susanna for a picture. It appears very extra- ordinary that Rembrandt should have taken so much pains, and have made at last so very ugly and ill-favoured a figure ; but his attention was principally directed to the colouring and effect, in which, it- must be acknowledged, he has attained the highest degree of excel- lence." R. — Rubens ; His first wife, Catherine Brintes (135), and his second wife, Helena Forman (136) : " both fine portraits ; but the last by far the most beautiful and the best coloured," R. — (137.) Portrait of his confessor. — Van Dyk : (37.) Six portraits of the Huy- gens family. — (40.) Portrait of Simon, a painter of Antwerp. " This is one of the very few pictures that can be seen of Van Dyk which is in perfect preser- vation; and, on examining it closely, it appeared to me a perfect pattern of portrait-painting; every part is dis- tinctly marked, but with the lightest hand, and without destroying the breadth of light : the colouring is per- fectly true to nature, though it has not the brilliant effect of sunshine such as is seen in Rubens' s wife: it is nature seen by common daylight." R. — (38, 39.) Two fine portraits of a Gentle- man, and " a Lady with a feather in her hand ; " R. : called, incorrectly, the Duke and Duchess of Buckingham; from the coat of arms in the corner, they are probably either Dutch or Ger- man. — " A Virgin and Infant Christ, coloured in the manner of Rubens, so much so as to appear, at first sight, to be of his hand; but the character of the child shows it to be Van Dyk's." R. The only picture in the gallery answering to this description is one at- tributed (and to all appearance cor- rectly) to Murillo. (223.) — Ferdinand Bo! : (17). Portrait of Admiral de Ruyter. — Keyzer : (82.) Four Bur- gomasters of Amsterdam deliberating on the reception of Mary de Medici into their city. " A very good picture." —(81.) A small full-length of a Ma- gistrate in black : excellent. — Gerard Douw : (35.) A "Woman sitting near a window, with a child in a cradle ; a very pleasing picture. — (36.) U A woman with a light." R. Very highly finished. Wouvermans : (188.) A Bat- tle-piece ; (196.) "The Hav Cart;" and (195.) « The Manege": " three excellent specimens of this artist. " Here are many of the best works of "Wouver- mans, whose pictures are well worthy the attention and close examination of a painter. One of the most remarkable of them is known by the name of the Hay Cart : another, in which there is a coach and horses, is equally excellent. These pictures are in his three different manners : his middle manner is by much the best; the first and last have not that liquid softness which charac- terises his best works. Besides his great skill in colouring, his horses are correctly drawn, jery spirited, of a beautiful form, and always in unison with their ground. Upon the whole, he is one of the few painters whose ex- cellence, in his way, is such as leaves nothing to be wished for." R. — Berg- hem: (12.) An Italian View. — (14.) Banditti robbing a Caravan : excellent, — Vandencerf: (186.) The Flight into Holland, route 2. — the hague. museum of pictures. 33 Egypt : " one of his best." R. — Ter- burg. (169.) A Woman seated on the ground, leaning her elbow against a man's knee, and a trumpeter delivering a letter." R. — Poussin: Venus asleep: a Satyr drawing off the drapery. R. The painting to which Sir Joshua al- ludes is probably (139) described in the catalogue as the Dream of Astolpho, from Ariosto, by one of Rubens' s scho- lars. — John Breughel : "Two pictures of flowers and fruits, with animals ; one serves for a border to a bad portrait (?), the other (26, called the Flight into Egypt) to a picture of Rottenhamer : the frames are much better than the pictures." R. — (28.) Figures by Ru- bens. Paradise. The largest and best of Breughel's pictures on this subject : see Kuglcr § LVIII. 4, p. 302.— (95.) Metzu. Emblematical representation of Justice. — (89.) Lingelbach : The De- parture of Charles II. from Sche- veningen for England in 1660. — (116, 117.) A. Van Ostade : "The exterior and interior of a cottage." — F. Micris: (100.) Boy blowing bubbles. — (98.) " Dutch gallantry : a man pinching the ear of a dog, which lies on his mistress's lap." R. Called in the catalogue, The Painter and his Wife. — Van der Heist : (59.) Portrait of Paul Potter, taken a few days before his death. — Schalken: (146.) A Lady at her Toilette. A beautiful candlelight effect. — (150.) Portrait of William III. — Jan Steen: (160.) The Menagerie, one of his best works. In the distance the house at Hondsholredijk. — (157.) Human life: see Kugler, § LIII. 2 ; and other very good pictures. — A. Van de Velde : (178) The seashore at Schevening. — Hoekgeest (a rare master) : (62.) The tomb of Wiliiam Prince of Orange in the New Church, Delft. "It is painted in the manner of De Witt, but I think better." R— Tenters : (168.) "An alchemist." —(167.) "A kitchen." R.— Velasquez : (225.) Portrait of a boy : said to be Charles Balthazar, son of Philip IV. of Spain. — Unknown: (273.) Portrait of the Emperor Charles V. ; a sketch. — Vernct : (219.) A storm at sea. — Hondehoeter (64-67.) § Weenix (184, 185.) : One or two admirable speci- mens of these masters, representing birds and game alive and dead. — Van Huissum : Fruit and flower pieces. (72, 73.)— De Heem: " Fruit, done with the utmost perfection." R. (56, 57.) — Snyders : (1 53.) " A large hunting piece, well painted, but it occupies too much space. His works, from the subjects, their size, and, we may add, from their being so common, seem to be better suited to a hall or ante-room than any other place." R. The landscape is by Rubens. Among the older pictures are, — by Albert Durer : Two portraits (202.) said to be of Laurence Coster, the inventor of printing, and (203.) P. Aretin. — Holbein: (210.) A small portrait of a man with a hawk ; on it is written Robert Cheseman, 1533. "Admirable for its truth and precision, and ex- tremely well coloured. The blue flat ground behind the head gives a general effect of dryness to the picture : had the ground been varied, and made to harmonise more with the figure, this portrait might have stood in compe- tition with the works of the best por- trait painters." R. — (211.) Jane Sey- mour. (209.) A portrait called Sir Thomas More ; on it is the date 1542 : it is quite unlike Sir T. More, who was beheaded 6 July, 1535 : — fine por- traits. The Royal Cabinet of Curiosities, a highly interesting collection, is placed in the lower story of the Maurits Huis. Several apartments arc occupied en- tirely with objects of curiosity from China and Japan, and rare productions brought from the Dutch colonics ; one division is devoted to historical relics of distinguished persons. Some of the most remarkable objects are here enu- merated. The costumes of China, illustrated by figures of persons of various ranks, in porcelain, as the Emperor, a Bonze or Priest, Mandarins, &c, each in his pe- culiar dress. An immense variety of articles manufactured by the Chinese in porcelain. Figures and other objects elaborately carved in ivory, mother-of- pearl, and soap-stone or steatite. A chess-board, differing but little from that of Europe ; articles in daily use amongst the Chinese, as the chopsticks, which c 3 34 ROUTE 2. THE HAGUE. MUSEUM. Sect. I. serve instead of knives and forks ; the calculating table (swampon, or abacus), with which they cast accounts ; speci- mens of visiting cards 2 feet square, &c. ; and a view of the palace of the Emperor of China at Pekin. The rarities from Japan are unique, as the Dutch are the only European nation admitted into that country, and have therefore alone opportunities for procuring curiosities. They give a most satisfactory insight into the manners and habits of that remote and highly- civilised country. The value of this collection is increased by the extreme difficulty of bringing such objects to Europe, as the laws of the Japanese strictly prohibit their exportation, under pain of death. A plan of Jeddo, the metropolis of Japan, a city (it is said) of at least 2,000,000 inhabitants, and 20 leagues in circumference. A curious model, made by the Japanese, with the most minute attention to details, of the island of Desima, the Dutch Factory in Japan. Several hundred figures are in- troduced into it, giving a precise idea of the occupation of the people, the furni- ture of their houses, their dress, &c. — The Deities of China and Japan in porcelain, &c. A whole wardrobe of Japanese dresses, made of silks and other stuffs. A large collection of Japan ware, as boxes, trays, tea-chests, &c, of far finer workmanship and more elaborately painted than the ordinary specimens commonly met with in Europe. Japan- ese weapons, particularly various species of krits or dirks, and swords, of remark- ably fine steel, which in temper are said to surpass anything which Birmingham, or even Damascus, can produce. The Japanese are tremendously expert in the use of this their favourite weapon : with one blow they can sever a man's body in twain. The upper classes of society claim the privilege of wearing two swords at once. The matchlock barrels deposited here are excellent in the quality of the steel and in the beauty of the workmanship. Among the articles of military equipment is a coat of Ja- panese mail, with a steel visor formed into a grotesque face, and ornamented with mustachios of bristles and horns of brass. A Norimon, or Japanese palan- quin. The needles and other apparatus with which the operation of acupunc- ture is performed by the Japanese physicians, are deserving the attention of medical men. Many cases are entirely filled with dresses, arms, implements, canoes, and household utensils of savage nations, from various parts of the world. Here is a model of Fieschi's infernal machine, and a Russian knout. Among the Historical Relics are the armour of Admiral de Ruiter, with the medal and chain given him by the States General. The baton of Admiral Piet Hein. The armour of Admiral Tromp, with the marks of more than one bullet on it. The chairs of Jacqueline of Hol- land, and of Barneveldt, brought from his prison. The portrait and sword of Van Speyk, who blew up his vessel before Antwerp, 1831 ; and the chair on which General Chasse sat during the siege of the citadel. A portion of the bed on which the Czar Peter slept in his hut at Zaandam. The shirt and waistcoat worn by "William III. of Eng- land the last three days of his life. A specimen of the beggar's bowl (jatte de Gueux) which formed a part of the in- signia of the confederate chiefs who freed Holland from the yoke of Spain, worn by them along with a wallet, as symbols of the name of beggar (gueux), with which their enemies intended to have stigmatised them. A ball of wood, full of nails, each driven in by one of the confederates when they swore to be faithful to one another and stedfast in the enterprise. The dress of "William Prince of Orange on the day when he was murdered at Delft by Balthazar Geraarts. It is a plain grey leathern doublet, sprinkled with blood, pierced by the balls, and showing marks of the powder. By the side of it is the pistol used by the assassin, and two of the fatal bullets. A model of the cabin in which Peter the Great resided while a ship-builder at Zaandam. A large baby- house, fitted up to show the nature of a Dutch menage, intended by rotor as a present to his wife. Opposite to the Palace of the King of Holland, in the Xoord Einde, is the Xcu- ~* Holland, route 2.— the hague. royal library, etc. 35 Palace, built by the late King (who died 1849). He was a liberal patron of the arts ; and his very splendid collec- tion of pictures, formerly in his palace at Brussels, formed with great care and taste and at vast cost, was, to the shame of the Government and people of Hol- land, and to their permanent injury, sold by auction 1850, and dispersed, the greater number of pictures being trans- ferred to England. The Royal Library in the Voorhout consists of about 100,000 vols., open to the public on Mon., Wed., and Fri. Here may be seen the prayer-books of Catherine de' Medici and Catherine of Aragon, and a Bible presented to Wil- liam and Mary of England at their coronation, with these words in the title-page, in the Queen's own hand : " This book was given the king and I -at our crownation. Marie B,." Among the MSS. is a copy of the Treaty of Utrecht ; the original is in the Archives. The collection of medals (to the num- ber of 33,600) and of gems in the same building is very extensive and rich. There are 300 cameos, the greater part antique — among them, the apotheosis of Claudius, one of the largest known, and of fine workmanship. Among the modern cameos, a portrait of Queen Elizabeth is very fine. The lover of the fine arts ought not to quit the Hague without visiting the Private Cabinets of M. van Nagel, which includes a fine Cuyp, a Calm at Sea ; two good Wouvermans ; and a spirited Teniers ; — that of M. Osthuis : — and that of M. Steengracht, on the Vijverberg, which contains fine works of Teniers, Jan Steen, Mieris, Van der Velde, Metzu, Bachhuysen, Bernbrandt ; 2 portraits by Van der Heist, 2 by C. Netscher, a Paul Potter, 2 portraits by Gerard Dow, a De Hooglxe ; and in the first room are some good modern Dutch pictures. The ca- binet of the Baron de Westreenen de Tiellandt contains, besides a fine collec- tion of coins and antiquities, several works of early art. There are specimens of Byzantine art and works of Cimabue, Giotto, Ditccio, Ambrogio Lauratti, J. van Eycli, and of the early schools of Flo- rence, Pisa, and Sienna. The house is on the Princcssen Gracht. A bronze statue of William I., Prince of Orange, stands in the middle of the Plein. His faithful dog bears him com- pany (see Delft, p. 29). It was erected in 1848, and is by M. Boyer. Huygens, the inventor of the pendu- lum clock, and William III. of England, were natives of the Hague. A number of tame storks may be seen stalking about in the Fish Market, where a small house like a dog-kennel has been built for them. They are kept at the public expense for the same reason that bears are kept at Berne and eagles at Geneva — because the arms of the Hague are a stork. In the Theatre (Schouwburg, at the angle of the Wijde Voorhout) French pieces are performed 3 times a week, and Dutch twice; German are given but rarely. The Post Office (Postltantoor) is in the Place, adjoining the Stadhuis and the Groote Kerk. There is a brass- cannon fomidry at the Hague, opposite the Malibaan. At Boer's shop, Scheveninger Straat, Chinese and Japanese curiosities may be purchased. At Enthoven's Antiquity shop ladies will find a large collection of old lace, porcelain, &c. — H. M. At the Hague the water is more stag- nant than in almost any other part of Holland. Though so near the sea, the canals and streams do not empty them- selves into it, on the contrary flow from it. By the side of the road, near Sche- veningen, a tall windmill is seen on a height, with another below it. These raise up water from the Dunes and con- vey it to the Vijverberg, whose stagnant water it displaces into the canals, and, at last, effecting a feeble current through the Hague, pushes out a portion into the canal leading to Delft. From Delft the water barely flows to the borders of the Meuse, above Rotterdam, where it is pumped up and discharged into that river. This may be well seen in a clear day from the top of St. James's church. On the outskirts of the town, about a mile distant, at the side of the road to Haarlem, lies the palace called the House in the Wood ('T Huis in 't Bosch). The billiard-room is hung round with family 36 ROUTE 2.— THE HAGUE. BOSCH. SCHEVENINGEN. Sect. 1. portraits — among them the Governor of Friesland by Van Dyk, and the children of Charles I. by Netscher. The great hall, called Oranje Zaal (Orange Hall), was built by a Princess of Solms, grand- motber of our William III., and deco- rated with paintings in bonour of ber busband, Prince Frederick Henry of Orange. " It is painted on every side, and every recess and corner has some allegorical story by Jordaens, Van Tul- den, Lievens, or Hondthorst, The dif- ferent bands that have been bere em- ployed make variety, it is true, but it is variety of wretchedness. A triumphal entry, by Jordaens, is tbe best, and this is but a confused business : the only part which deserves any commendation is tbe four borses of tbe cbariot, wbicb are well painted. It is remarkable tbat tbe foremost leg of eacb horse is raised, which gives them the formality of trained soldiers." — R. " The picture no doubt displays much bad taste and bad drawing ; but there are specimens of colouring in it which have all the brilliant transparency of Rubens — for instance, the group of female prisoners and that of Venus and her nymphs." — W. M. T. The next in merit is that of Neptune stilling the tempest — a " Quos ego," also by Jordaens. The apartments which surround this hall were added afterwards. Some of the rooms are hung with Chinese silk. The Bosch, or Wood, a beautiful park, nearly 2 m. long, abounds in fine forest-trees, and is one of the few spots in Holland where they are allowed to grow as nature intended them, undip- ped, untrained, and in all their naftiral luxuriance of spreading branches. The number of paths, the varied nature of the ground, the fine sheets of water, and the refreshing shade, render this a very agreeable walk. Scheveningen, about 3 m. from the Hague, on the sea-shore, is a fishing village of 3000 inbab. The road thither passes through a long avenue of trees. A little to the left of the road is Sorgvliet, once the residence of the poet Jacob Cats : a stone tablet at which he used to write, with a hole cut in it for . an inkstand, is shown in the garden. The costume worn by the fishwives of Scheveningen is not a little singular ; the bonnet can be compared to nothing so appropriately as a coal-scuttle. The fishermen convey their fish to the Hague in carts drawn by dogs ; in returning the master supplies the place of the fish, and may be seen, to use the words of the facetious author of Vathek, " airing himself in a one-dog chaise." The sand-hills thrown up along the beach conceal all views of the sea till the traveller is close upon it. Scheveningen was the place from which Charles II. embarked for England at the Restoration ; and here the Prince of Orange landed in 1813, some months before the downfall of Buonaparte. The village originally extended some way beyond the church towards the sea ; but that portion of it was swallowed up by a dreadful inundation, 1570. To the right of the village, on the shore, is a pavilion of the late Queen of Holland ; and, beyond it, tbe Neva Bath- ing Establishment, which unites the ac- commodations of an Hotel and Cafe with warm baths ; while bathing- machines are provided on the shore for those who prefer a cold bath in the sea. It belongs to the Corporation of the Hague, and the price of everything is fixed by tariff. Apartments let at 3, 2, and 1 guilders per diem ; but an allow- ance is made to persons who take up their abode for several weeks. Table- d'hote (open Tafel) at 4, 2 fl. ; a bottle of vin ordinaire, 1 fl. 50 c ; dinner in private, from 1 fl. 50 c. to 2 fl. 50. c. ; breakfast with tea or coffee, 60 c. ; a warm bath, 1 fl. 10 c. ; a bathing- machine, 1 fl. Fish may be had here in great perfection, and are generally eaten at breakfast. Many princes, princesses, and other persons of distinction from various parts of the Continent, take up their residence here every year during the season. The inhabitants of the Hague drive over hither, take their breakfast or dinner, and a bath, and then return. A new road leading from the back of the hotel over a waste of sand now planted with trees may be chosen in going back to the Hague, so as to vary the excursion. Omnibuses arc constantly passing to and fro, fare 6 or S stivers. A glass-coach Hollaad. ROUTE 2. — LEIDEN. 37 to go and return costs from 1 to \\ gr. The Bath-house is built upon one of the ridges of sand thrown up by the wind, which extend along the sea-shore from the Texel nearly to Dunkirk. (See Dunes, § 12). The view over this desert is as strange as can be well imagined. Railway, Hague to Leiden. — Trains 4 times a day to Leiden, 10 miles (f hour), Haarlem, Amsterdam, and 5 times to Rotterdam. rt. See the spire of the ch. of Voor- b'/rg, a small hamlet E. of the Hague, near the site of the Forum Hadriani of the Romans. Remains of Roman build- ings, baths, broken pottery, utensils, and other articles of much interest, have been dug up here, and are now to be seen in the museum at Leiden. Near Voorburg is Hofwyk, the house where the brothers Huygens lived. (See Route 10.) [Between the Hague and Leiden the old road, having first traversed the Bosch, passes many country houses and gardens of the nobility, with their me- andering walks, formal clipped hedges, and parterres cut in patterns filled with flowers. There is an undulation in the surface of the ground, which shows that this part of the country was originally in a great degree composed of Dunes (§12) similar to those now forming along the sea-shore.] Nieuwcr Oosteinde Stat. Voorschoten Stat. The narrowed stream of the Rhine is crossed near Yink, before reaching Lei- den, by a timber bridge with 5 openings, one of which is furnished with sliding platforms, in order to allow the masts of vessels to pass. The Leiden station stands on such bad ground that it was necessary to construct a raft, placed upon oak piles, to receive the foundation of the building. 37 m. Leiden Stat. — Inns: Goude Zon (Golden Sun) ; Plaats Royaal, a small inn of no pretension, but where cleanliness and civility will be met with ; Lion d'Or, in the Breedstraat. Leiden, situated on that branch of the Rhine which alone retains its ori- ginal name as far as the sea, and which here resembles an artificial canal, has 37,464 inliab., but is built to hold 90,000. In its present name may still be traced that which the Romans gave it — Lugdunum Batavorum. In the centre of the town is the fragment of a round tower, de Burg, built on a mound of earth : it is said to have been raised by Drusus, though attributed by some to the Anglo-Saxon Hengist. There is a waUc round the top of it, but it is not suffi- ciently high to afford a good view of the town. It stands in a tea-garden, and 10 cents, or 2 stivers, is charged to each person for admission. The Town Hall (Stadhuis), in the Breedstraat (Broad Street, the principal and longest in the town), is a singular but picturesque old building, erected in 1574; the lower story is occupied by butchers' stalls. In the council and audience chambers, on the first floor, are several pictures : among them the Last Judgment, by Lucas Van Leyden, an extraordinary composition, but which must be judged with reference to the period when it was done — it has been much injured ; a Crucifixion, by Corne- lius Engelbrecht ; several good portraits of the city guard, by Vanschooten. There is a picture by Van Bree, a modern artist, together with a portrait, by Govert Flinck, of the burgomaster, Peter Yan- derwerf, who so bravely defended the town during the memorable siege of 1574, and here, with inflexible forti- tude, resisted the summons to surrender made by the starving and tumultuous mob of townsfolk, when they broke into the council-chamber. Wappers, a living artist, has also painted a fine picture of the siege of Leiden. Leiden has been rendered celebrated in the annals of the Low Countries, and, indeed, in the history of the world, by the siege which it endured from the Spaniards under Valdez in 1573-4. The defence of the place was intrusted to John Vanderdocs ; the burgomaster of the town was Pieter Adrianzoon Yan- derwerf ; and the example of heroism and endurance afforded by the citizens under their guidance has not been sur- passed in any country. When Vander- does was urged by Valdez to surrender, he replied, in the name of the inhabit- ants, that " when provisions failed them they would devour their left hands, re- 38 BOUTE 2, — LEIDEN, THE SEISE, Beet. I. serving their right to defend their ' liberty." For nearly four months the inhabitants had held out -without mur- J muring ; every individual, even to the women and children, taking a share in the defence. For seven weeks bread had not been seen within the walls ; provisions had been exhausted, and the horrors of famine had driven the be- J sieged to appease their hunger with the flesh of horses, dogs, cats, and other foul animals ; roots and weeds were eagerly sought for. So strictly was the block- J ade maintained, that every attempt on the part of their friends to throw in pro- j visions had failed. Pestilence came in j the train of famine, and carried off at \ least 6000 of the inhabitants, so that the duty of burying them was almost too severe for those who were left, worn out by fatigue, watching, and emacia- tion. At length two carrier pigeons flew into the town, bearing tidings that relief was at hand. The Prince of Orange had finally adopted the deter- j ruination of cutting the dykes of the Maas and IJssel, to relieve the heroic town. As this fearful alternative could not be resorted to without involving in ruin the whole province of Holland, it is not to be wondered at that it was only adopted after much hesitation and as a j last resource. But the inundation, even j when the water was admitted, did not produce the anticipated results ; although the country between Gouda, Dort, Rot- j terdam, and Leiden was submerged, it I only rose a few feet. The flotilla of 200 boats, built by the Prince of Orange at Rotterdam, and manned by 800 Zealand- [ ers under Boisot, destined for the relief | of the town, was thus prevented ap- proaching it, though the inhabitants j could easily descry it from their walls. Then it was that, driven frantic by dis- ■ appointment as well as suffering, they j approached, in a tumultuous mob, the ; burgomaster, and demanded from him, peremptorily, bread or the surrender of the town. " I have sworn to defend this city," answered the heroic governor, " and by God's help I mean to keep that oath. Bread I have none ; but, if my body can afford you relief and enable you to prolong the defence, take it and tear it to pieces, and let those who are most hungry among you share it." Such noble devotion was not without its effect : the most clamorous were abashed, and they all retired in silence ; but, for- tunately the misery of the besieged was now nearly at an end, and another power above that of man effected the relief of the town of Leiden. The wind, which had for many weeks been in the n.e., changed to the n.w., driving the tide up the river ; it then suddenly veered to the s., and one of those violent and continued storms which, even when the dykes are entire, eause such anxiety for the safety of the country, acting with accumulated violence upon the waters, widened the breaches already cut in the dykes, and drove in the flood upon the land with the force of an over- whelming torrent. The inundation not only spread as far as the walls of Leiden, but with such suddenness that the ram- parts thrown up by the Spaniards were surrounded, and more than 1000 of their soldiers were overwhelmed by the flood. The same tide which swept them away carried the flotilla of boats of the Prince of Orange, laden with provisions, to the gates of Leiden. An amphibious battle was fought among the branches of the trees, partly on the dykes, partly in boats, and in the end the Spaniards, who had boasted that it was as impossible for the Dutch to save Leiden from their hands as to pluck the stars from heaven, were driven from their palisades and entrenchments. This almost miraculous deliverance took place on the 3rd of Oc- tober, 1574, a day still commemorated by the citizens. As an additional proof of Divine interference on this occasion, the Dutch historians remark that the wind from the s.w., which had carried the water up to the walls, after three days turned to the n.e., so as effectually to drive it back again. Thus it might well be said that both wind and water fought in the defence of Leiden. The spirit which then animated the Dutch nation is by no means extinct, as their patriotic exertions after the sepa- ration of their country from Belgium, in 1830, have shown. At the first call the whole of the students of this and other Dutch universities quitted their studies, and, enrolling themselves into Holland. ROUTE 2, — LEIDEN. UNIVERSITY. MUSEUM. 39 a corps, marched to the frontier, and not only distinguished themselves in the conflicts that took place, but re- mained in arms for the space of one year as volunteers. The University is remarkable, not only as one of the most distinguished schools of learning in Europe, and for the interesting and valuable museums attached to it, but also on account of its origin and foundation, which dates from the time of the siege. The Prince of Orange, with the view of rewarding the citizens for the bravery they dis- played on that occasion, gave them the choice of two privileges — either an exemption from certain taxes, or a uni- versity : much to their credit they chose the latter. It at one time at- tained so high a reputation for learning, that Leiden earned the appellation of the Athens of the W»st. In the list of its distinguished professors and scholars it numbers Grotius and Descartes, Sal- masius, Scaliger, and Boerhaave, who was professor of medicine. Evelyn, Goldsmith, and many other celebrated Englishmen, studied here. Arminius and Gomarus, the authors of the rival doctrines in religion named after them, were professors here, and the memor- able controversy between them com- menced in the University. Leiden still affords excellent opportunities to the student of medicine or natural history, from the extent and value of its collec- tions in all departments. The building of this University is not distinguished for its architecture. The Academical Senate Hall, in which degrees are con- ferred, contains over the mantel-piece a likeness of the founder, and its walls are covered from top to bottom with more than 100 portraits of professors, from the time of Sealiger down to the present. There are at present about 300 students. It has lately been proposed to consolidate all the Dutch Universities at Leiden, which would, of course, advance its prosperity at the cost of Utrecht and Groningen. The Museum of Natural History in the Papengracht (open daily from 12 to 3) is one of the richest and most exten- sive in Europe, especially in all the productions of the Dutch colonies in the East, Java, Japan, the Cape, Surinam, and West Indies : there are many rare specimens not to be found elsewhere, very excellently preserved, and the whole is admirably arranged. The department of Birds is enriched by the collection made by M. Tem- minck, perhaps the finest in Europe. The cabinet of Comparative Anatomy is one of the most complete in Europe. It contains preparations and skeletons of animals from the camelopard down to the mouse, and is well arranged, but is of course interesting only to the stu- dent and man of science. Among the shells are specimens of those which produce pearl, and of the pearl itself in all its different stages of formation ; also portions of the wooden piles which support the dykes on some parts of the Dutch coast, perforated by the teredo to such an extent that the total ruin of the dykes was at one time apprehended. Luckily the danger did not spread very far, and the threatened scourge disappeared. It is supposed that the worm had been brought over from the tropical seas in the timber of some vessel, but that it had been killed in a few seasons by the rigour of a northern climate. Means have been taken since its appearance to guard against the danger in future. The dykes are now protected at their base by stones brought from Norway or Toumay, and the lock-gates are cop- pered. Among the minerals a mass of native gold, from the island of Aruba, weigh- ing 17 lbs., a large crystal of emerald, and an unset topaz, of a brownish- yellow colour, from Ceylon, the largest in Europe, should not be overlooked. Among the insects are various spe- cimens of spectrum, nearly a foot long ; also the leaf insect. The Egyptian Museum (het Museum van Oudheden), in the Brcede Straat, under the able direction of Mr. Lee- mans, includes numerous valuable and highly interesting monuments, partly historical, partly illustrative of the mode of life of that ancient people. The Papyri, some musical instruments, in- sci'iptions, numerous fine stone tablets of a very early period, a monolithic 40 ROUTE 2. — LEIDEN. BOTANICAL GARDEN. Sect. I. temple, cut out of a single huge block of red granite, many sarcophagi and mummies, as well as rich ornaments in gold and precious stones, offer abundant interest to the learned antiquary and to the curious traveller. Of jewellery and trinkets, once, doubtless, the delight of the ladies of Thebes, and such as were borrowed by the children of Israel on their departure from Egypt, there is a large assortment. A massive armlet of solid gold bears the name of a king (Thotmes II.), who is supposed to have been the oppressor of the Israel- ites ; if so, it may possibly have been seen by Moses himself. The Museum also embraces many ancient objects of Roman art ; an Etruscan statue of a boy holding a goose in his arms is curious for the style of art. Six monu- mental fragments, bearing Punic in- scriptions, were brought from the ruins of Carthage. There are, besides, a number of colossal Indian statues and other objects here. A heap of broken pottery and other objects discovered at Voorburg, near the Hague, are curious relics of the Roman settlement in this country. The Agricultural collections in Leiden are very eminent. The Library is very extensive, and contains some of the rarest oriental MSS. known, collected in the East by Golius in the 17th century. The Japanese Collection of Dr. Siebold, visible at his own house daily from 9 to 6 (give 10 stivers to the servant), is decidedly the finest and most extensive of the kind in Europe, and was formed by Dr. Siebold, a German physician, in the course of a residence in Japan of 8 years, some of which were spent in prison. It is curious not only from the number of the articles, but from their careful and judicious arrange- ment. It unites everything from the most common to the most rare and valuable objects relating to the mode of life, manners and customs, &c, of the Japanese. It contains implements of husbandry ; whatever is used for ordinary domestic purposes ; dresses, arms, tools, vases — many of them re- markable for their workmanship as well as their antiquity ; models ; well-exe- cuted sketches ; coloured drawings ; a library of printed books, MSS., and maps ; a complete set of musical instru- ments ; idols, and even the sacred ob- jects appertaining to their worship, and the furniture of the temple ; a series of Japanese coins and medals, and a com- plete set of Chinese coins, from the 2nd century before our era. The Botanical Garden deserves high praise, as a useful and instructive school for the student of botany. Those who look for fine hothouses and pretty gar- dens will be disappointed. It is under a twofold arrangement, according to the systems of Linnaeus and Jussieu. The collection of plants is very exten- sive, and is preserved in excellent order, under the superintendence of Professor Reinwardt and his able assistant Mr. Schurman. In the conservatories are reared the cinnamon, cinchona (from which come bark and quinine), coffee, cotton, mahogany, &c. A large flower- ing ash (Fraxinus ornus), in the open air, was planted by Boerhaave, who de- voted much time and attention to the formation and cultivation of this garden. Another curiosity is the trunk of a tree, which has been sawn asunder, and shows in the very centre an iron trident or fork buried in the middle of the wood. The large open space, called de Euine, in the street named Raperibarg, now planted with trees, was formerly covered with houses, 300 of which were demolished in 1807 by the fearful ex- plosion of a barge laden with gun- powder, while lying in the canal, in the very heart of the town. 150 persons were killed. The accident is said to have been caused by the bargemen frying bacon on the deck. In the Church of St. Peter, built 1315, is the monument of Boerhaave, the renowned physician, with the modest inscription, " Salutifero Boerhaavii Genio sacrum ;" surrounded by others in memory of the most distinguished worthies of the University, as Dodo- noeus, Spanheim, the two Meermans, Clusius, Scaliger, Camper, and others. Among them is one of a professor J. Luzac, killed by the explosion of 1807, representing him in bas-relief, in the state in which he was found after his death. Holland. IIOUTE 2. — LEIDEN. CHURCHES. KATW1JK. 41 In the Church of St. Pancras, called the Ilooglandschc Kerk, is the monu- ment of the brave burgomaster Van- derwerf, who refused to yield up the town to the Spaniards. The most frequented Promenade is without the walls, close by the side of that branch of the Rhine which waters and surrounds the town, shaded by a double rows of trees. In the neigh- bourhood of Leiden are the retreats of several distinguished men. In the Chateau of Endegcest (near Oestgeest) Descartes found an asylum ; and the country seat of Boerhaave still bears his name. Leiden is surrounded by windmills ; but they who inquire for that in which Rembrandt was born will hardly meet with a satisfactory answer. A short distance out of Leiden, on the 1. of the road to Utrecht, and on the 1. bank of the Rhine canal, is a mill built of brick, bearing a more antiquated ap- pearance than the rest, which is pointed out as the birthplace of the painter. It is recorded that his parents were owners of a corn-mill, situated between Laycrdorp and Koukerk. Otto Ven- ning, master of Rubens, 1556, Jan Stccn, 1636, Gerard Douw, W. Vande- veldc, Micris, and many other distin- guished painters, were born here ; as were the Elzevirs, famous printers, known by the editions of the classics bearing their name, and printed in Leiden. [About 8 m. from Leiden, on the sea- shore, is Katwijk, where the expiring Rhine is helped to discharge itself into the sea by means of a canal with gi- gantic sluice-gates. The mouth of the Rhine had remained closed from the year 840, when a violent tempest heaped up an impenetrable barrier of sand at its embouchure, until 1809, when the sluices were formed. As long as the river was left to itself, it was lost before it reached the sea in the vast beds of sand which it there encountered, and which either lay below the level of the tides, or were so flat that water could hardly pass through or drain off them. Thus only a small part of the Rhine, dribbling into insignificant streams, ever found its way out : the rest settled into stagnant pools, con- verting the whole district into a pesti- lential morass. To remedy this evil, and also to give a new outlet to the Haarlemmor Mcer and to the super- fluous waters of the district of the Rijnland, a wide artificial channel has been formed, provided with a triple set of sluices ; the first having 2 pair, the second 4 pair, and the last, nearest the sea, 7 pair of gates. When the tide flows the gates are shut to prevent the entrance of the sea, which at high water rises against them 12 ft., and the level of the sea on the outside is equal if not above that of the canal within. During ebb-tide the flood-gates are opened by means of machinery for 5 or 6 hours, to allow the accumulated streams to pass out, and, in their passage, to clear away the sands collected by the waves on the outside. It has been calculated that the volume of water passing out in a second equals 100,000 cubic* ft. When the sea is much agitated, and the wind, blowing towards the shore, pre- vents the tide retiring to its usual dis- tance, it is impossible to open the gates at all. The dykes which have been raised at the entrance of the canal, and on the sea-shore, are truly stupendous ; they are founded upon piles driven into the loose sand, and faced with solid masonry of limestone from Tournay. These hydraulic works were executed during the reign of King Louis Buo- naparte by an engineer named Conrad ; his name has been erased (because the inscription contained some praise of his master) from the work which does him so much credit, and confers so great a benefit on the surrounding district. But his services have not been forgotten by the powers that be, since, after his premature death, his three infant sons were educated and provided for at the public expense. This exit of the Rhine presents nothing very striking to the eye. The sight of a set of flood-gates, even though they surpass in strength and ingenuity any similar construction in Europe, will hardly repay a traveller who does not take a particular interest in surtug s . e S)7iag. L F 4 9 Museum E 4 10 Felix ; Mentis C 5 11 Zeanoaishoop E 3 12 Baringpahhery C 2 13 Nieuu'e Studs Eeiberg D 2 \AAinstel bridge F 5 15 Jhitdi Tlteatre D 6 16 German Tlieatre. E 4 17 Frendi ZTieatre E 4 18 Salon des Varietes tJTesL... D 4 19 S.des Varietes (Amstselstil.JL 4 20 Vaudeville Francois. D 5 21 Frascati _ D 4 22 Post Office, C 4 23 Ealvcr Straat D4 D5 !24 Ajnstel Sluice F 5 25 JTieuwe Dyh C3 D3 26 JSTieuweMarkt E 3 27 Woorder Marht B 3 28 Warmoes Straat __B 3 29 Schreyers Toren. D 2 Z0 Flower Market D 4 31 KHoOand Canal D 1 32 Botanic Garden. F 4 -J it" a -1/i7c- red W JA- C .Walter. Holland. ROUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. CANALS. 49 and the surrounding country from in- undations depending much upon the management of these two inland seas." — Family Tour. The road passes over the sluices, close to an old chateau called Zwanen- burg ; it then makes a bend, after which it continues in a straight line on to Amsterdam. The most conspicuous objects, on ap- proaching the town from the land side, are the windmills, one of which is perched on each of the 26 bastions, now no longer of use as fortifications ; they serve to grind the flour which supplies the town. The fosse surround- ing the town is 80 ft. wide. 75 m. Amsterdam Terminus is a long way oif from the centre of the town. Omnibuses convey passengers for 4 sti- vers, and vigilantes for 15 stivers or 1 guilder the hour. Amsterdam. — Inns : H. des Pays- Bas, Doelen Straat, good and comfort- able; Oude Doelen, same street, very good ; Nieuwe Doelen, in the Gainalen market, on the Singel, also good ; Ron- deel, Doelen Straat ; H. du Vieux Comte, in the Kalver Straat, a quiet house. The principal city of Holland is situated at the confluence of the river Amstel with the arm of the Zuider Zee called the IJ (pronounced Eye), which in front of Amsterdam is from 8 to 9 fathoms in depth, and forms a well- sheltered road. It has 212,000 in- hab. Its ground-plan has somewhat the shape of a crescent, or half-bent bow; the straight line, representing the string, rests on the IJ, and the curved line forms its boundary on the land side. Its walls are surrounded by a semicircular canal or wide fosse, and within the city are 4 other great canals, all running in curves, parallel with the outer one. They are called Prinsen Gracht, Keizers Gracht, Ileeren Gracht, and Singel, the last being the inner- most, The Keizcrs Gracht is 140 ft. wide. They are lined with handsome houses ; each of the first 3 is at least 2 m. long, and in their buildings as well as dimensions may bear comparison with the finest streets in Europe. The various small canals which intersect the [n. a.] town in all directions are said to divide it into 95 islands, and to be traversed by no loss than 290 bridges. It has been calculated that the repair of bridges, cleansing and clearing canals, and repairing dykes, in Amsterdam alone, amounts to several thousand guilders daily. This will be better un- derstood when it is known that, were it not for the most skilful management of sluices and dykes, the city of Amster- dam might be submerged at any mo- ment, All things considered, it is one of the most wonderful capitals in Eu- rope ; in the bustle of its crowded streets, and in the extent of its com- mercial transactions, it is surpassed by very few. It is said to be between 7 and 9 m. in circumference. In the strange intermixture of land and water it may be compared to Venice ; and the splendour of some of its buildings, though not equalling that of the Sea Cybele, may be said to approximate to it, but the houses are almost all of brick, and the canals differ from those of Venice in being lined with quays. The whole city, its houses, canals, and sluices, are founded upon piles ; which gave occasion to Erasmus to say that he had reached a city whose in- habitants, like crows, lived on the tops of trees. The upper stratum is literally nothing more than bog and loose sand ; and until the piles are driven through this into the firm soil below, no struc- ture can be raised with a chance of stability. In 1822 the enormous corn warehouses, originally built for the Dutch East India Company, ao tually sank down into the mud, from the piles having given way. They contained at the time more than 70,000 cwt. of corn : a weight which the foun- dation beneath was incapable of sup- porting. A kind of hackney-coach called Sleepkoets, still seen, though less common than formerly, in Amsterdam, consists of the body of a coach or fly, mounted upon a sledge drawn by one horse, while the driver, walking beside him, holds in one hand a bit of cloth or rag dipped in oil and fastened to the end of a string ; this he contrives to drop, at intervals, under the runners of the sledge to diminish the friction. It has D ]<> Febx Mentis Co 11 ZtiTaoitsbinifi E 3 12 Harinapak-kny C 2 13 Kiawc Stails Berbery D 1 M Jm.rf./ bridge F J 15 A/ft/i Theatre D 6' 1C German Theatre E 4 17 t)v/idi Theatre E 4 18 Salon dr.. Variety (Hal. D4 19 S.detrariet*tfAm*b3elH E4 20 Vaudeville Fnmeuut D ."> 21 FratcaJi O'l 22 7!«f g^iae C •/ 23 h'ulva- Stnial D4 D a 2-1 ^nufel .*'//««• F.i 2.'> JT„/„v JJi/l- C3 D 3 2(1 TKeUMmJUarkt K 3 17 Hoarder Markl B 3 38 Warmoes .Vft«,// D 3 29 Sehretjers Tortvi D 2 30/Wa-.IW,v* IW 31 H.Holland Canal D / 32 Bolani&6ajrden F ■/ Published by John Murray Albemarle Street London 1840. Ellgravea Ty J.fc C .Wal kcr. 50 EOUTE 2. AMSTERDAM. PALACE. Sect. I. been often said that a police regulation restricts the use of wheels, from fear lest the rattling of heavy carriages over the stones should shake and injure the foundation of the buildings : this, how- ever, is not true. Heavy burdens are almost entirely transported along the canals, and from thence to the ware- houses on similar sledges. Omnibuses ply through the town and to the rail- way station. The havens and canals are shallow, being about 8 ft. deep at ordinary water. They are, therefore, fit for the Hhine vessels and Dutch coasters, but do not admit vessels for foreign trade. These lie along the booms and in front of the town, and the goods are transferred by means of the numerous canals of the city. There is a good deal of mud deposited at the bottom of the canals, which when disturbed by the barges produces a most noisome effluvia in hot weather, when the water is said to " grow." Dredging-machines are con- stantly at work to clear out the mud, which is sent to distant parts as manure. Mills have also been employed to give an artificial motion to the waters, and prevent their becoming stagnant; but the same object is now attained by more simple means. To effect a circulation in the canals is most essential to the health of the inhabitants. The Amstel at its entrance into the city is 11 in. below the mean level of the German Ocean, the lowest tide is only 1^- ft. lower than the Amstel. It is therefore evident that the canals can be emptied, and that partially, only at low water. The Damrak is the point of discharge. At high water the sluices which admit the Amstel into the town are closed for a short time, and the sea- water allowed then to circulate through the town, until it is again expelled by the river. The vast dams thrown up within a few years in front of the town, for a great distance along the side towards the IJ, resist the influx of the sea into the mouths of the canals, and are pro- vided with flood-gates of the strongest construction, to withstand the pressure of high tides. The Palace (het Palais), formerly The Stadlmis, is a vast and imposing edifice of stone, standing upon 13,659 piles driven 70 ft. deep into the ground. The architect was Van Campen; the first stone was laid 1648, and the build- ing finished 1655. It was originally occupied by the magistracy, for town councils, judicial tribunals, and the like. During the reign of Louis Buonaparte it became his palace, and the late King resided in it whenever he visited Amsterdam. The main entrance is be- hind. The treasures of the once cele- brated bank of Amsterdam, which used to regulate the exchanges of Europe, were kept in the vaults below the building. It is chiefly remarkable for one grand Hall, occupying the centre of the building, lined with white Italian marble, 120 ft. long and 57 ft. wide, and nearly 100 ft. high. The sculp- tured bas-reliefs which adorn the build- ing are by Arthur Quellin, and deserve notice as works of art, those especially which adorn the two pediments ; many of those in the interior are appropriate and well executed : thus over the door of the room which was the secretary's is a dog watching his dead master, and a figure of Silence with her finger on her lips, as emblems of fidelity and secrecy. The Bankrupt Court contains a group representing Daedalus and Icarus — in allusion to rash speculations and their ruinous consequences. In the Audience Chamber is a large picture, by Wappers, of Van Speyk blowing up his ship. It is worth while to see the View from the tower on the summit of the building. This is the best place to obtain a tolerably correct idea of this wonderful city, with its broad canals, avenues of green trees mnning through the heart of the town, houses with forked chimneys and projecting gables, many of them bowing forward or lean- ing backwards, from subsidence in their foundations. These form the fore- ground or" the picture. The horizon extends on the N". side over the Zuider Zee, over the IT, to the numerous wind- mills and red roofs of Zaandani, the N". Holland canal and the towers of Alkmaar; S. over the expanse of the Haarlem Meer, about shortly to disap- pear, and to be ploughed by the share and no longer by the keel ; S.E. appear Holland. ROUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. CHURCHES. 51 the towers of Utrecht and Amersfort ; and "W. the spire of Haarlem, with the straight canal and railway pointing towards it. The present Stadhuis, or Town Hall, on the Achter Burgwal, (formerly the Admiralty,) contains good pictures — portraits of hurgomasters and citizens of Amsterdam, by Van der Heist, Frans Hals, Govert Flinch, &c. ; also a capital Lingelbach, a view of the palace while building ; and a view of it finished by Van der Ulft. The New Exchange stands in front of the palace : its construction was a work of great difficulty on account of the looseness of the soil, a mere turbary or bog, which caused the foundations to give way when the building was hardly above ground. — 4 P as * 3 o'clock is the daily hour of high change : those who enter after the time must pay a small fine. The Churches of Amsterdam, stripped of almost every decoration at the Reformation, are in themselves rather barren of interest, forming a complete contrast to the richly ornamented struc- tures of Belgium. The Oude Kerk (Old Church), in the "Warmoes Straat, has 3 fine windows of painted glass, executed between 1549 and 1648; the tombs of several Dutch admirals ; a list of the persons killed in Amsterdam by the Anabaptists, 1535 ; and a fine set of chimes. The organ is esteemed by many not inferior, as to tone, to that of Haarlem. "It is as gorgeously framed as if it had been con- trived for some Jesuits' church. The gallery in which it stands is richly in- laid with porphyry and white marble : its case is florid, with the most heavy and profuse carving and gilding. The tones are rich, firm, and brilliant. It has 68 stops, 3 rows of keys, and a full complement of pedals. In short, it is a first-rate instrument. Dr. Burney, in his ' Musical Tour,' mentions that this organ — in his day a celebrated instru- ment — had been finished 12 years be- fore his visit (or about 1760), by Batti, of Utrecht, in completion of an organ begun in 1736."— H. F. C. The Nieince Kerk (so called, though built in 1408), on the Damrak, close to the palace, is one of the finest churches in Holland : it has a fine open screen of brass. It contains, among many public monuments, those of Admiral de Ruiter, the commander who sailed up the Med- way and burnt the English fleet at Chatham, who at different times con- tended with the English admirals Blake, Monk, and Prince Rupert, and who commanded the Dutch at the battle of Solebay. He is styled, in his somewhat pompous epitaph, "immensi tremor Oceani." There are also monuments to Captain Bentinck, killed in the battle of Doggerbank, 1781, and to the poet Vondel. The most recent monument is one to the memory of Van Speyk, who blew up himself and his ship, in the Scheldt, 1831, rather than yield, to the Belgians. (Rte. 18, p. 118.) The splendidly carved pulpit, with its huge sounding-board, was executed by Albert Vincken Brinck, in 1649. The churches in Holland are, per- haps, more numerously and regularly attended than even in England. The sermons to be preached on Sunday are announced beforehand in placards, like play-bills with us. The congregation sit during the sermon with their hats on or off, indifferently, just as the mem- bers in our H. of Commons. In most of the churches service is performed 3 or 4 times. The minister wears the costume of the Puritans in Charles I.'s time — a short black cloak reaching a little below his knee, with a ruff round his neck. There is an English Episcopal Church here on the Groene Burgwal; service at 10^ A.M. A Scotch Presbyterian Church has long been established here. The Jews, who form one-tenth of the population of the town, and reside in a particular quarter, have 4 Synagogues : the most splendid is that of the Portu- guese, in the Muider straat, which is worth visiting. The streets leading to it seem but a repetition of Monmouth Street, St. Giles's — the same dirt and filthy smells, the same old clothes, evi- dently the staple commodity, with odds and ends, heaped up, as it were, from all quarters of the world. Nevertheless the Jews of Amsterdam are, from their d2 52 ROUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. PICTURE GALLERY. Soot. I. wealth, a very influential body. Spi- nosa, the metaphysician, was b native of Amsterdam, and a Jew by birth (1632). The Museum or Picture Gallery — placed in the Tripponhuis (a name de- rived from its former owner), in the Kloveniershurgwal is open to the public Thura. and Ftl, from 10 to 3: on other days it La usual to give a guilder to the "keeper for admission. Many of the pictures are attached to shutters, which admit of being drawn forward upon hinges in order that they may be seen under the most favourable lights. It is completely a National Gallery, being composed almost entirety of works of the Dutch school, of which it contains many chefs-d'oeuvre. The finest picture in the collection is that painted by Van der Heist, "the miracle of the Dutch school," representing the City Guard of Am- sterdam met to celebrate the Treaty of Minister, 1648 ; an event which, as it first confirmed the independence of the Dutch nation, was justly considered ■a subject worthy the pencil of the artist. The figures, 25 in number, are portraits ; the names are inscribed above, hut there are no persons in any way distinguished among them. One of them represents the lieutenant of the company, and his dress is the uniform of the Dutch schutterij (militia') of that period. " This is, perhaps, the first picture of portraits in the world, com- prehending more of those qualities which make a perfect portrait than any other I have ever seen. They are cor- rectly drawn, both head and figure, and well coloured, and have a great variety of action, characters, and countenances; and those so lively and truly expressing what they are about, that the spectator has nothing to wish for. Of this pic- ture I had heard great commendations ; hut it as far exceeded my expectation as that of Rcmbrand, the Wight Watch, fell below it." It. Portraits of 3 mem- bers of the Archers' Guild, seated at a table, holding the prizes for the best shots, a sceptre, a goblet, and a chain ; a fourth man, said to be the painter, a woman, and a dog. In the background ;ung marksmen. Sir Joshua calls it an admirable picture. Portrait of Mary, daughter 01 Charles I., wife of William II., 1*. of Orange, and mother of William III. of England. Van der Heist is a scarce master, and his works arc nowhere to be found in equal per- fection with those at Amsterdam. Backhuysm. — The Pensionary John de Witt embarking on board of the Fleet in 1665. A view of Amsterdam. Berghem. — Several fine Landscapes ; one particularly, called an Italian Land- scape. Ferdinand Bol. — Portrait of Ad- miral de Ruiter. Gaspar Grayer. — -The Adoration of the Shepherds. A Descent from the Cross. Cuyp and Both. — Some admirable land- scapes. Gerard Douw. — The Evening School, a. painting in which the effect of candle- light is wonderfully portrayed : no less than 5 different lights are introduced into the picture, and variously thrown upon the 12 figures which compose it. A Hermit in a Cave before a Crucifix, surprisingly finished. Hondekoeter. — Several pictures of fowls, game, rare birds, &c, unequalled in their class probably in the world. One of the most remarkable is that known as " the Floating Feather," in which a Pelican is introduced with Ducks swimming. Van Huysum, — Fruit and Flower pieces. Carl du Jardin. — Portraits of the 5 Governors of the Spinhouse at Amster- dam. " They are all dressed in black ; and, being upon a light hackground, have a wonderfiil relief. The heads are executed with a most careful and masterly touch, and the repose and har- mony of colouring spread over the whole picture are admirable." R. The por- traits of this artist are rare, as he is generally looked upon as a painter of landscapes, sheep, and small figures. There arc 3 other good pictures by him, and no other collection probably pos- sesses works of his showing equal excellence. Lievens. — Portrait of Vondel, the Poet. M'iereveld. — Portraits of William I. and Maurice, Princes of Orange. OsLade, A. — The Painter in his Study. Ostade^ •/. — A laughing Peasant with a jug in his hand. Holland. ROUTE 2 . AMSTERDAM. PICTURES. 53 Paul Potter. — A Landscape with Cat- tle, and a Woman suckling a Child. Orpheus charming the Beasts. A Bear Hunt, one of the few paintings by this master in which the figures are as large as life. A part of the original painting has peeled off the canvas. Rembrand. — The picture called the Night Watch probably represents a com- pany of archers, with their leader, Captain Kok, going out to shoot at the butts. It appears to have been much damaged, " but what remains seems to be painted in a poor manner." — u So far am I from thinking it deserves its great reputation that it was with difficulty I could persuade myself that it was painted by Rembrand : it seemed to me to have more of the yellow manner of Boll. The name of Rembrand, however, is certainly upon it, with the date, 1642." R. — This unfavourable opinion of Sir Joshua is not confirmed by judges of art in the present day, who consider that he does injustice to one of the finest and most wonderful productions of the great painter. Another first-rate paint- ing is the portraits of 5 Masters of the Drapers' Company and their servant. They are seated round a table, appa- rently conversing on matters of business. The heads are finely painted, partic\i- larly the one nearest to the right. There are parts of this painting which, in force of execution, the painter pro- bably never surpassed. Ruisd'ael. — A magnificent waterfall. The castle of Bentheim. The same subject is to be found at Dresden. Schalken. — William III., a portrait by candlelight. H. Walpole says that the artist made the King hold the can- dle until the tallow ran down and burnt his hand. Two Boys ; one eating soup, the other an egg, with his face slobbered over by the yolk ; called " Eveiy one to his fancy ;" which motto is written on the picture. Jan Stem is, perhaps, no- where seen to greater ■ advantage. A Baker at a Window, and a Boy blowing a Horn to let the neighbours know that the rolls are ready. A Village Q^iack. The Fete of St. Nicholas, an occasion when the Dutch every year make pre- sents of bonbons to their children who behave well, while the naughty ones are left without anything, or receive a whipping. The story is admirably told in this picture, which is a chef-d' oeuvre of the master.. Snyders. — Dead Wild- fowl. Teni'ers.. — Temptation of St. Anthony. A Peasant drinking and smoking. Terburg. — A Lady in White Satin taBi- ing with a lady and gentleman. Her back only is seen, but the whole atti- tude shows, that she is struggling with her feelings. (See Kugler, § LV. 5.) The Ministers at the Congress of Mini- ster. A. Vandvr Venne. — Portrait of William I., taken after his death. W. Vande- velde. — View of Amsterdam,, from the Schreijershoek Tower; dated 1686. " One of the most capital works of this artist." R. Paintings of the Sea Fight between the Dutch and English, which lasted 4 days, and in which the Dutch were victorious : one represents the battle between De Ruiter and General Monk, in which 4 English linc-of- battle ships were taken. Calms at Sea, painted with the most exquisite clear- ness, and with that wonderful effect of distance over the surface of the water which is the peculiar excellence of Yandevelde. Vandyh. — Portraits of the Children of Charles I. : one of them, the Princess Mary, became the wife of William II., Prince of Orange. Francis Yan der Borght, a masterly portrait. Weeni'x. — Dead Game. Wbuvcrmans. — A Stag Hunt, in this artist's best manner. The Chasse au Vol, Hawking Party. A picture representing officers plundered and bound by peasants. The horse is exquisitely painted. All three are very fine :. there are others of great excellence, as, a Landscape, with a white Horse.. The Museum also contains one of the most remarkable collections of prints in Europe, particularly rich in the Dutch and. Flemish masters, formed by Mr. Van Leyden, and purchased by Louis Buonaparte, K. of Holland. It occupies 200 portfolios. In the Spin-house, or prison for female offenders, in the Nieuwe Prinsen Gracht, are several pictures and portraits of directors of the establishmaent, by Ru~. 54 ROUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. CHARITIES. INSTITUTIONS. Sect. I. bens and Vandyh, exceedingly fine, and well worth notice. There are several first-rate Private Collections of pictures in Amsterdam: that belonging to M. Six (Heerengracht, bij de Vijzelstraat, No. 4005) contains Bembrand's portrait of the Burgomaster Six, painted with great power and effect ; and of Madame Six, a wonderful picture. — G. Douw, A Girl with a Bird- cage, exquisitely finished. — Metzu, A Fishwife. — Cuyp, Sunny Landscape, ships and water ; and a moonlight view. — V. der Neer, Moonlight. — Hob- bema, Landscape. — Buisdael, ditto. — Wynants, ditto. — Paul Potter, Cattle ; good. — Jan Steen, A Jewish Marriage. WeeniXj Dead Game. These were painted for the places on the walls which they occupy, and hang in their original black frames. The cabinet of M. van der Hoop (Keizersgracht, bij het Molenpad, No. 5934) is also first-rate ; it is most taste- fully arranged in his elegant mansion. He has an excellent Landscape by H. Vandevelde, with figures of the painter and his family ; and one of the finest Ostades known, from the cabinet of the Duchesse de Berry. The gallery of Mr. van Loon contains first-rate pictures of the Dutch school ; and that of Mr. van Brienen many fine specimens of it. These two galleries may, perhaps, be seen by applying, by letter, to the own- ers, or, in then- absence, through Mr. J. de Vries, a broker in works of art. Amsterdam is remarkable for the number and extensive bounty of the Charitable Institutions which it supports, for the most part, by voluntary contri- butions of its benevolent citizens. It is recorded that, when some one in con- versation with Charles II. prognosti- cated speedy ruin to the city from the meditated attack of Louis XIV.' s armies, Charles, who was well acquainted with the country from a long residence in it, replied, "I am of opinion that Provi- dence will preserve Amsterdam, if it were only for the great charity they have for their poor." This city alone, it is said, numbers no fewer than 23 insti- tutions of benevolence, including hos- pitals for the reception of the aged and infirm, the insane, orphans and widows, foundlings, &c, some of them attached to the churches of peculiar religions, others open to all sects without distinc- tion. At one time more than 20,000 poor people received their daily bread and board from charity. Some of the almshouses, such, for in- stance, as the hospital for Protestant old men and women, on the Amstel, look more like princes' palaces than lodgings for poor people. The Burgher Orphan Asylum receives 700 or 800 children, boys and girls, until they are 20 years of age ; and before they are sent out into the world they are instructed in some trade or profession. They are well taken care of, and are very healthy. The orphan children of the different asylums are generally distinguished by a particular dress : those of the Protes- tant Burgher House (in which Van Speyk was brought up) wear black and red jackets; the girls of the Boman Catholic Orphan House wear black, with a white band round the head : the orphans educated in the Almosoniers' Orphan House are dressed in black, and wear round the left arm the colours of the town — a black, red, and white band, with a number. The intention of these costumes is to prevent their entrance into playhouses, gin-shops, or other improper places ; a severe penalty being inflicted on persons who should admit children thus attired. There is also a class of Provident In- stitutions here and in other Dutch towns, called Provenlers Huisen (providers' houses), for the reception and comfort- able maintenance of old men and women, who pay a comparatively small sum, proportioned to their age (e. g. from 50 to 55 years, 2000 guilders ; 55 to 60, 1500; 70 years and upwards, 500 guil- ders), for admittance, and are sxipported in respectability to the end of their days. They form a very suitable retreat for domestic servants, who by timely sav- ings may obtain an entrance ; indeed, masters and mistresses sometimes re- ward old and faithful domestics by pay- ing for their admission. The poor throughout Holland arc generally supported by vomntary con- tributions. In all the churches collec- tions are made every Sunday by the Holland. route 2. — Amsterdam, prisons, societies. 55 deacons, who go roxuid to all present, carrying a little bag attached to the end of a stick, like a landing-net, with a monitory bell fixed to it, into which every person drops something suited to his means. There are also good institutions for the blind, and deaf and dumb. The Prisons of Amsterdam were placed upon a good foundation before those of other countries in Europe, and originally surpassed all others. They are now, however, in many respects, inferior to similar improved establishments in Eng- land and America. The Rasp-house was a penitentiary for the reception of impostors, petty thieves, vagrants, brawlers, &c, and was so called because its inmates were originally employed in rasping logwood. It is now converted into a temporary arrest-house. By one of the original ordinances of the Rasp-house, a refrac- tory prisoner, who refused to execute his allotted task of rasping, was placed in a cell into which water was admitted, which, if not kept under by his own exertions at a pump, swelled over his head, and drowned him. The Spin-house, or House of Correc- tion for females, contains about 150 inmates condemned to hard labour for periods varying from 6 months to 12 or 14 years. One division of it was for- merly devoted to the correction of of- fences which may rank between a fault and a crime ; such as in other countries are punished by the domestic code, but for which family authority is not always sufficiently strict in enforcing punish- ment ; though at the same time the dis- cipline of a prison would be too severe. Thus a disobedient child, an extravagant wife, or a drunken husband, if their offence were proved against them, and they were sent hither by their friends, were subjected to modified coercion and restraint, until, by penitence and pro- mise of amendment, they should have atoned for their misdemeanours. "Whether these various establish- ments are capable of relieving the whole mass of human wretchedness which this capital, in common with all large cities, must contain, would require a long re- sidence to determine ; but we could not help making the same remark here as in Rotterdam — that in all our rambles wo had not met with a drunken person in the streets ; nay, more, that we had not observed a man, woman, or child in rags, or met with a real object of com- passion, in any part of the town ; and the only beggars that accosted us, and those were in some of the lower parts of the town, were decrepit old men." — Family Tour m 8. Holland. The Dutch are not altogether ab- sorbed in commerce, so as to be able to devote no time to literature and the arts ; witness the society called Felix Meritis, from the first words of a Latin inscrip- tion placed upon the building, which is founded and supported entirely by mer- chants and citizens. The building is situated in the Keizers Gracht. In its nature it bears some resemblance to the Royal Institution in London. It con- tains a library, museum, collections of casts of ancient statues, of chemical and mathematical instruments, a reading- room, and a very fine concert-room and observatory. Lectures are given in various branches of art, science, and literature. Though there is little in the building, perhaps, to take up the time of a stranger merely passing through the city, any intelligent individual, about to reside here, would find it an agreeable resource. There are many other useful societies, the most prominent being the Associa- tion for the Promotion of the Public Weal (Maatschappij tot nut van't algcmccn). It was established in 1784, by a simple Baptist clergyman named Nieuwen- huizen, at Monnikendam, and it now numbers 200 offsets or branch societies, and 13,000 members, extending all over Holland. Its object is the instruction and improvement in condition of the lower classes : 1. By promoting the education of the young, improving school books, establishing Sunday schools, and providing for the children after quitting school — establishing book societies and libraries for the poor. 2. By extending information to adults by popular writings, public lectures, and the institution of banks for saving. 3. By the distribution of public rewards to the industrious and virtuous among 56 UOITTE 2. — AMSTEH1UM. MODES OF LIVINO. Sect. I. the poorer classes; bestowing medals on such as have risked their lives in pre* serying those of others, &o, The head- quarters of this admirable society are at Amsterdam, where an animal meeting of the members is held on the second Tuesday of August. A subscription of 5 or 6 guilders yearly constitutes a member. Its influence had begun to extend to Belgium before the revolution of 1830, but has since been checked and totally suppressed by the priests. The Promenades are the Plantaaje, or Plantation, at the end of the Heercn Gracht, surrounded by canals, and not far from the dockyards. The high bridge over the Amstel, near the place -where it enters the town, " in a fine broad sheet of water, and with scarcely perceptible current," is one of the most favourable points for obtaining a view of the town. The Amstel river is a great trunk of navigation. It is embanked, and navigable 11 m., to the boundary of the district at Amstel- mondhard, where it divides into 2 branches, which unite with numerous canals, both in this district and that of Rijnland. The banks of the Amstel, outside the Utrecht gate, are also much resorted to. The want of spring- water is a great evil and inconvenience in this large city. The houses are provided with tanks, in which every drop of rain that falls is treasured up : this is used by the better classes for culinary purposes. Drinking water is brought from Utrecht in stone bottles : but the main supply comes from the liver Vecht above Weesp, about 12 m. off, in very large water-barges, called Lcijtjcrs, which may be seen on the various canals ; and the poorer classes who have no cisterns are obliged to content themselves with this. On the first arrival of these barges the deck is (m a level with the surface of the canal; but a pump is inserted in the middle of it, and, as the cargo is disposed of to custom ors, the vessel gradually rises, until, when empty, it floats on the top, and is carried back for a fresh supply. All the water in the neighbourhood bring either brackish or putrid, good water becomes an article of considerable commerce, and this precious commo- dity is sold at a large prioe, especially in winter, when it sometimes becomes necessary in severe weather to cut a passage for the water-barges through the ice which covers the canals, at a heavy expense. A water company, how- ever, has recently been established, who will conduct this necessary of life into the town in pipes along the line of the Utrecht railway. A portion of the poorer inhabitants live entirely in the cellars of the houses. There is also a class who live constantly upon the canals, making their vessels their home. " In this and in many other respects the Dutch bear a strong resemblance to the Chinese : like that industrious and economical race, they keep their hogs, their ducks, and other domestic animals constantly on board. Their cabins display the same neatness as the parlours of their countrymen on shore ; the women employ themselves in all the domestic offices, and are assi- duous in embellishing their little sitting- rooms with the labours of the needle ; and many of them have little gardens of tulips, hyacinths, anemones, and various other flowers. Some of these vessels are of great length, but generally naiTow, suitable to the canals and sluices of the towns." — Family Tour. "This mode of living is a good example of Dutch industry and thrift. A man marries — he and his wife possess or purchase a small boat that will carry 1 to 3 tons. They live and cook on board, move about, carry articles to and from markets ; and their first, if not second child is born, or at least nursed, in this puny vessel. The wife nurses the children, mends, and often makes, all the family clothes, cooks, and assists in navigating the craft, especially in steering ; whon you may, at the same time, observe the husband with a rope over his shoulder dragging the boat along a canal or river when the wind is adverse. In process of time they buy a larger vessel, probably of 6 or 7 tons, and, if the smaller one be not unfit for uso, sell it to a young beginning couple. In the second vessel their family grows, until they arc probably strong enough to manage together, with perhaps an additional hand or two, one of those Holland. EOUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. — FISHERY- 57 large vessels, carrying from 200 to 400 tons, called Ehine boats: on board of all which the population live in the manner before described.'" — Cbmmerc. Statisc. One of the most interesting spots in Amsterdam, from the bustle displayed on it, is the Harbour and the Quay, along the bank of the IJ. The two enormous dykes or dams recently constructed at vast expense, nearly parallel with the shore, serve the double purpose of pro- tecting a part of the town from inunda- tions -to which it was previously ex- posed, and of gaining from the river a considerable space forming capacious basins or docks (Oostelijk and' Westelijk Dok), capable of holding nearly 1000 vessels, and closed by large sluice-gates. Between the two dams two rows of strong piles (bearing the singular name of Due d'Alben) extend. Openings are left at intervals between them to allow ships to enter and depart; these are closed at night by booms, so as to sepa- rate the harbour from the H. At the extremity of the western dam, near the fish-market, formerly stood the Herring Packery Tower. It received its name from a row of small houses occupied by rope-sellers, dealers in marine stores, &c, in front of which, during the season of the herring fishery, all the business connected with the examining, sorting the fish, and repacking them for foreign markets, is transacted in the presence of officers appointed by the authorities. Every proceeding with respect to the herring fishery is regu- lated by a committee of managers, or shareholders, called commissioners of the Great Fishery (by which is meant the herring fishery), approved of by the government, and under the inspection of officers appointed by them. These regulations are exceedingly minute and precise. " The period when the fishery might begin is fixed at 5 min. past 12 o'clock on the night of the 24th June ; and the master and pilot of every vessel leaving Holland for the fishery are obliged to make oath that they will respect them. The species of salt to be used in curing the different sorts of her- rings is also fixed by law ; and there are endless rules with respec-t to the size of the barrels, the number and thickness of the staves of which they were to be made, the guttings and packing of the herring, the branding of the barrel. These regulations are intended to secure to the Hollanders that superiority which they had early attained in the fishery, to obtain for the Dutch herrings the best price in foreign markets, and to prevent the herrings being injured by the bad faith of individuals."— M'Gul- loch's Dictionary of Commerce. The fishery, however, is sadly fallen off at present; scarcely 200 herring vessels are sent out from the whole of Holland, instead of 2000, the number employed in former days. Still the arrival of the herrings is looked for with eager anticipation at Amsterdam :■ a premium is given to the first buss which lands a cargo ; small kegs are then sold at a high price ;■ and a single herring often fetches as much as 5s. The art of curing herrings was invented by one William Beukels, of Bicrvliet, a Fleming ; but it is not the fact that the Dutch and English derive from his name the word pickle ; which is no- thing more than the Dutch pekel (brine). In veneration for one who had conferred so great a benefit on his country, the Emperor Charles T. made a pilgrim-age to his tomb. Close to the Haringpakkerij is a bridge stretching across the harbour to the tavern called Nieuvce-Stads-Herberg, which is the starting - place of the steamers to Saardam, and of the ferry- boat to Buiksloot. (Rte.. 3.) Further on, by the side of the harbour, stands the Schreijershoeketoren (Weeper's - Corner Tower), so called because, being si- tuated near the quay from which vessels used to set sail, it was a constant scene of lamentation and tears, which were shed by friends, wives, and children, at the departure of their husbands, fathers, or other relatives and connections. The humble dwelling of the heroic De Ruiter still exists on the Quay of the IJ. Near the Eastern Dock (Oostelijk Dok) stands the house of the Zeemans- hoop (Seamen's Club), an association of 300 members, chiefly ship captains, with which a charitable foundation for the benefit of their widows and orphana D 3 58 ROUTE 2. AMSTERDAM. DOCKYARD. MANUFACTURES. Sect. I. is connected. Many of the first people of Amsterdam are enrolled as members. In the same quarter is the Naval Academy (Kweek-school voor de Zee- vaart), in which the sons of sailors are- provided by the government with an education fitting them for the naval profession. In the yard attached to the building is a frigate fully rigged, to make the pupils acquainted with the details of a ship's equipment. Their dormitory also is fitted up like the be- tween-decks of a man-of-war ; every boy sleeps in his hammock, suspended from the roof, above his locker or chest in which his clothes, &c, are kept. Further E., beyond the quay of the IT-gracht, a long bridge leads to the island of Kattenburg, on which is situated the National Dockyard (Lands, or Rijkswerf — observe, they are not called Royal Docks) . It is now sepa- rated from the H by the eastern dam. It is the largest naval dep6t and arsenal in Holland; there are usually several vessels of war on the stocks. Admis- sion may be obtained by showing a written order from the British or Ame- rican consul to view it — its slips, rope- walks, model-room, in which are pre- served specimens of the worm-eaten piles alluded to in p. 39 ; but an Englishman will find that it is not to be compared with the dockyards of his own country. In the latter part of the 13th cent. Amsterdam was still a cluster of fisher- men's huts, in a salt marsh. Its great advance in wealth and importance took place in the 16th cent., after the siege of Antwerp, when the persecu- tions of the Spaniards in the Flemish provinces drove so many valuable sub- jects, active merchants, and clever manu- facturers, to seek for safety and the free exercise of the Protestant faith in Hol- land and England, In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the Earl of Leicester attempted to gain possession of it by treachery, but failed. It is supposed that Fenelon had Am- sterdam in view while describing Tyre in his Telemaque. Its prosperity for a long time depended on its shipping, which engrossed the carrying trade of the whole world, and likewise had the effect of rearing a bold race of sailors, ready to fight the battles of their coun- try, and to brave storms and tempests, in every sea under heaven. At one period the trade in butter and cheese brought 1,000,000 ducats annually to Amsterdam. The Bank of Amsterdam, described by Adam Smith, no longer exists : another was set up by King William I., and the capitalists here still continue the bankers of a large part of Eiuope. The Manufactures of Amsterdam com- prehend, besides those of cotton and woollen stuffs, which are to be found elsewhere, one or two which are almost peculiar to the spot ; for example, the refineries of borax, a salt which is pro- duced from the mud of large lakes in Thibet, Persia, Tuscany, and South America; of camphor, the coagulated sap of a tree, found principally in China : it is used extensively in medi- cine ; while borax is an ingredient for making the solder used by jewellers. Smalt manufactories. — Smalt is a blue glassy substance produced from cobalt : the artificers of Amsterdam alone know how to refine it in the best manner, by grinding it minutely, and by other methods, which are kept secret. They produce a great variety of shades in the colour, which is chiefly employed in painting china. Many other articles are manufactured here, by methods believed to be known only in Amster- dam ; such as cinnabar or vermilion, rouge, white lead, and aquafortis ; gold lace, and a great variety of scents and perfumed oils, are also objects of com- merce. The art of cutting diamonds was for a long time confined to the Jews of Amsterdam and Antwerp. It is supposed not to have been known in Europe earlier than the 15th cent. The diamond mills at Amsterdam are numerous, and are exclusively the pro- perty of Jews. One of them is thus described by Mr. Elliot : — Four horses turn a wheel, setting in motion a number of smaller wheels in the room above, whose cogs, acting on regular metal plates, keep them constantly in motion. Pulverised diamond is placed on these ; and the stone to be polished, fastened at the end of a piece of wood, Holland, route 2. — Amsterdam, theatres, steamers. 59 by means of an amalgam of zinc and quicksilver, is submitted to the friction of the adamantine particles. This is the only mode of acting upon diamond, which can be ground and even cut by particles of the same substance. In the latter operation diamond-dust is fixed on metal wire that is moved rapidly backwards and forwards over the stone to be cut. Theatres. — There are 3, which are opened alternately every day in the week but Sunday ; performances begin at 6 or half -past 6.— 1. The Dutch Theatre (Stads Schouwburg, near the Leiden-gate), devoted to Dutch tragedy and comedy. 2. The German and Italian Theatre, in the Amstel Straat, for operas only. 3. The French Theatre, for French vaudevilles, &c. There are also 3 smaller theatres where vaudevilles are represented — 2 Dutch,both called Salon des Varie'te's, and 1 French ; the latter is on the Singel, near the Munt ; they are much frequented, as smoking is allowed. Entrance 15 stivers. Con- certs are given at Frascati's, in the Nes. Cafes. — The most frequented is De Grand Cafe* Restaurant, on the first floor at the corner of the Kalver Straat and the Dam, where the chief news- papers, including The Times, are taken in. Cafe' Francais in the Kalver Straat. The finest shops are in the Kalver Straat, which is also the most frequented thoroughfare — in the Nieuwedijk — both leading out of the square in which the palace is situated — and in the "Warmoes Straat. Excellent curacoa is made at Am- sterdam at two-thirds of the English price ; it may be purchased very good at Wynand Focking's, in de Pijl Steeg, near the Exchange. Anisette is another good liqueur manufactured here : the best may be got of Bols, in het Loosje. Physician, Dr. Davids, 7, Hceren Gracht, understands the English lan- guage and Pharmacopeia. The Flower-market, held on the Voor Burgwal, a little to the S. of the back of the palace, on Monday, is worth a visit. The annual Kermis or Fair (§ 15) takes place at the beginning of Sep- tember, and, while it lasts, attracts hither multitudes from the northern provices. It may be styled the Dutch Carnival. At the neat village of Muider- berg there is a remarkable echo on the property of Mr. E. J. Koch. Railroads (Hollandsche Spoorwcg) — to Haarlem, Leiden, and Hague — ter- minus outside the Willems or Haarlem gate : Rijn Spoorweg, to Utrecht and Amhem — terminus outside the Wecspcr gate. (Rte. 5.) Steamers to Hamburg, the 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th, and 30th of every month from April to November, set- ting off very early in the morning ; so that it is necessary to go on board be- fore 12 at night. A place in the first cabin cost 44 guilders, rather dear ; in the after cabin 35^ ; 4-wheeled carnages 70 grs. When two or more passengers take places together, they pay 10 florins less. Steamboats to Saardam and Alkmaar. (Rte. 3.) To Harlingen and Enkhuizcn 3 times a week. To Kampcn daily in summer at 6 a.m. Diligences leave Kampen on the arrival of the steamer for Groningen, by Zwolle, Meppel, and Assen. Arrival at Groningen 11 p.m. Also to Enschede, Oldenzaal, Lingen, and Bremen; to Koevorden and De- venter, and all the intervening places in Overijssel and Drenthe. Places may be secured in Amsterdam. To Arnhem and Cologne by the Zuider Zee and IJssel (Rte. 12) 3 times a week — too tedious a conveyance for a pleasure tour. A steam ferry - boat is constantly plying to Buiksloot and the mouth of the Texel canal. Rte. 3. The Post Office is on the Voor Burg- wal, behind the palace. The Passport Office is on the Dam, opposite to the Exchange, ROUTE 3. AMSTERDAM TO BROEK, AND THE GREAT NORTH HOLLAND SHIP CANAL. AM- STERDAM TO SAARDAM. Broek. — A steam ferry-boat plies every hour from the tavern called Nieuwe Stads-IIerborg, rising on piles in the midst of the 1J, to the S. point of 60 ROUTE 3 — BUIKSLOOT. SHIP CANAL. Sect. I. the opposite shore of Waterland, 1| m, from Buiksloot. Trekschuits ply from the same house to Broek 4 times arday. The harbour of Amsterdam is fenced in with 2 long lines of piles driven into the mud, having open spaces at intervals to allow vessels to enter and depart. These openings are closed at night with booms, or large trees co- vered with iron spikes, which are drawn across and fastened with chains. Not many years ago it was discovered that some molluscous animal had committed such extensive ravages in the wood- work, that, though the piles were of the finest heart of oak, they were in a short time reduced to a state resembling honeycomb, so as to require constant renewal. (See p. 39.) In traversing the harbour long rows of little pavilions, raised upon wooden piers, are remarked, stretching far out from shore, several feet above the water. These are summer-houses belonging to the citizens, the owners of pleasure^ boats, who delight to come hither and smoke their pipes and sip their wine, beer, or coffee. From the landing-place Amsterdam is seen to great advantage, stretching along the opposite shore of the IJ, It is by far the best view of the city, and is a picture of wealth and industry, bearing witness to the extent of the trade which is still carried on with almost all parts of the globe, The IJ is frozen over in severe win- ters. In the winter of 1794 r 5 the Dutch fleet lying in the IJ, opposite Amster- dam, was captured by a French corps of cavalry and flying artillery ! The vessels were frozen up in the ice at the time, and the detachment from the in- vading army crossed the ice to attack them. Buiksloot is a large village at the Waterland dyke, abounding in spacious inns, with numerous apartments for the reception of guests from Amsterdam. Inns : De Boer's and Geritzen's. Carriages may be hired here to go to Broek (4 m.) and return for 4 grs. ; to Saardam for 4 grs. ; Monnikendam 4J grs. ; Edam 5 grs. The longer tour by Broek, Monnikendam, Edam, Pur- ^aerende (where is the only tolerable inn on the route at which travellers may dine), to Saardam, costs 15 grs., and will occupy a whole day. No one should omit to view the Grand Ship Canal of North Holland, which commences here directly oppo- site Amsterdam, and extends to Helder and the Texel, a distance of 51 m. It is one of the greatest rmdertakings of the kind ever executed. At the surface it is 124 ft. wide, at the bottom 31 ft., a breadth sufficient to admit two frigates to pass, and probably greater than that of any other canal in the world ; and it is 21 ft. deep. It has locks only at each end. The lockrgates exceed in dimensions the largest in the docks of Liverpool ; they are founded upon piles driven through the mud into sand. The level of the canal at Buiksloot is 10 ft. below the mean height of the sea, and of course many feet below high tides. As a work of utility this canal deserves the highest praise, since it enables vessels to enter and quit the port of Amsterdam with safety, and without any delay, in defiance of con- trary winds, and unimpeded either by the storms or the thousand sandbanks of the dangerous Zuider Zee : at the same time avoiding the trouble and risk of passing the bar at the mouth of the IJ, called the Pampus, over which lay the only outlet to the sea before this canal was made. Large vessels were formerly obliged to discharge their cargoes on the outside of the harbour of Amsterdam, and were then lifted out of the water and floated over the bar by means of a machine called a camel, a species of double chest of wood, the 2 halves of which are shaped to fit the hull of a ship. Being filled with water and sunk, they are attached to the side of the vessel to be lifted. The water is then pumped out of them, and of course, as they become buoyant, they raise the ship with them. The time employed in tracking the fly-boats from Amster- dam to the Helder, by the canal, is 10 hrs. 5 moderate sized vessels in about 18 hrs. ; and large East Indiamen are tracked in 2, 3, or 4 days, according to the wind. Such vessels were not un- frequently detained as many weeks by tempestuous weather and other ob- Holland. ROUTE 3. — BROEK. 61 staclos before they could make this short voyage l>y sea. The difficulties which opposed the formation of this canal, through ground consisting of low swamp and loose sand, increase our admiration of the skill and perseverance by which it was planned and executed. The original sea-shore, which is the only firm ground in New Holland, was found by boring to be 43 ft. under the present surface, and the foundations of the locks were laid at that depth. One principal difficulty which occurs is the preventing the loose and silty soil which forms the banks of the canal from sliding down into the bottom and filling up the channel. Blanken was the engineer; it was begun 1819 and finished in 1825, at a cost of nearly 1^ million sterling. The only disadvantage to which it is liable is that of being choked up by ice in winter. Some years ago 35,000 guilders, about 3000/., were expended in cutting a passage through the ice for several outward-bound vessels. The road to Brock is dull ; it runs through a flat country of meadows by the side of the N. II. Canal, as far as half way, and at the 2nd bridge quits this and follows the Broek Canal, along which men and women, harnessed like horses to the towing rope, may be seen submitting to the drudgery of tracking barges laden with fruit and vegetables for the Amsterdam market. The habi- tations passed on the way are mostly cottages of one story, surmounted by roofs nearly twice as high as the walls ; these serve as storerooms for the winter stock of hay. Broek [pronounced Brook], cele- brated as the oleanest village in the world, is a place of considerable extent, built on the border of a large pond or lake. Many of its 800 inhab. are merchants, landed proprietors, under- writers, stockbrokers, or tradesmen who have amassed fortunes and retired from business. Some of them are taken up with the manufacture of those little round cheeses known all over the world as Dutch cheeses, an article of great traffic, and source of considerable wealth to the province of North Holland. " There is neither horse nor cart road through the place, so we were obliged to leave our carriage at a small inn on its outskirts, and to walk through it. A notice on a board warns strangers that they are not to smoke in the village without a stopper on their pipe, nor to ride through it, but must dismount and lead their horse at a foot pace ! The narrow lanes or passages which inter- sect it are paved with bricks or little stones set in patterns. Broek has been the subject of many exaggerated de- scriptions ; this, for instance, is dignified in the Guide-books by the name of mosaic. The paths are strewed with sand or shells, also arranged in patterns, so precise is the neatness which here prevails. The houses are mostly of wood, very scrupulously painted white and green ; indeed it has been said that some people here keep a painter in their house all the year round, that the building may always preserve the same freshness of aspect within and without ; but this is another exaggeration. Al- most all the houses glitter in the sun, with roofs of polished tiles of different colours : the habitations of the poorer classes are usually only of one story ; those of the rich arc for the most part of the style which has been appro- priately called " the florid Cockney," something between Grecian, Chinese, and Saracenic : one has a pasteboard- looking front, intended to represent a temple ; another is painted with such various colours as to call to mind the scenery of a theatre ; all vie with one another in extravagance and absurdity. Many of them are planted at the edge of canals and are approached by bridges formed of planks. Yet Broek has an inanimate and listless appearance, owing to the custom of keeping the front door and windows always closed, save for the entrance of the bridal pair after marriage, and for the exit of a corpse for burial. No one should visit Brock without entering one of the houses, as the interior is far more curious than the outside. The greater part of them are private dwellings, and of course strangers arc not admitted without an introduc- tion to their owners. Not being pro- vided with such recommendation, we \ were content to repair to one of the 62 ROUTE 3. — BROEK. PURMERENDE. Sect. I. numerous dairy farms where cheese is made, and where a small present pro- cured us admission. It was amusing to observe the anxiety with which one of the children of the house laid down a wet cloth before us at the door, in order that we might clean our feet upon it, and thus introduce no pollution into their dwelling. Before almost every house in the place we had remarked a large collection of shoes and sabots, for the inmates usually put them off at the door, like the Turks, and walk through the house in slippers or stockings ; and even the Emperor Alexander, it is said, on visiting Broek, was compelled to comply with this usage." " On entering the house we found a stable for the cows in winter running round three sides of it, the centre and remaining side being set apart for human beings. The cows were all ab- sent from home in their summer quar- ters — the fields. I am sure that 3 S of the poor people of England, and a much larger proportion of the Irish, are not so well and cleanly lodged as the brutes in this country. The pavement was of Dutch tiles, the walls of deal boards, not painted or rough sawn, but as smooth and as clean as a dining-table in an English farm-house. From one end of the stable to the other runs a gutter, and above it, over each stall, a hook is fastened in the ceiling. "When the cattle are within doors their tails, from motives of cleanliness,, that they may not dangle in the dirt and besmear their comely sides, are tied up to these hooks in the ceiling ! '" Here may be seen the cheeses* in various stages of preparation, some in the press, others soaking in water and imbibing salt, and every part of the process distinguished by the most re- fined purity. A vast quantity of these sweet-milk cheeses (zoetemelk kaas), or Edam cheeses as they are here styled, are made in "North Holland. They are sold at the markets at Alkmaar, Hoorn, &c, and are exported thence to the most distant countries of the globe. The closed door in every house, men- tioned above, leads to an apartment which is rarely entered or opened, save by the housewife herself, who once a- week unfastens the shutters, takes down all the china, dusts it, and scrubs the furniture ; and after scouring the walls and floor, and polishing the stoves, closes up the door and shutters again, till the revolving week brings round another day of purification. We were admitted even into this sanctum, and duly appreciated the tidiness of the whole ; the exact marshalling of the china cups and teapots, under whose weight every shelf and ledge seemed to groan, and the picturesqueness of the old-fashioned furniture. The garden attacked to the mansion of Mr. Van der Beck is the show place at Broek, only because it surpasses in its absurdities all the others. In the miscellaneous nature of its contents it beats the famous garden described in the " Groves of Blarney " all to nothing. Such an accunrulation of pavilions, ar- bours, summer-houses, pagodas, bridges, and temples, Gothic, Grecian, Chinese, and rustic, are nowhere else to be seen, except perhaps at the Pfauen Insel, Potsdam. To mention a few. In one spot a Swiss cottage is tenanted by two wooden puppets as large as life, one of which smokes a pipe, the other, a female, spins, and even sings, while a wooden dog barks at the entrance of strangers, all by the aid of clockwork. In one corner of this toyshop garden is a wooden garde de chasse, with a sham musket, in the attitude of one about to shoot ; in the pond a pasteboard swan, duck, and a mermaid. With all its absurdity and extrava- gance Broek deserves to be seen as a curiosity ; but it must not be regarded as a characteristic specimen of Holland ; as the village is, in fact, unlike any other, and exhibits a caricature of Dutch manners and cleanliness, as well as of Dutch taste. An English traveller, fond of agri- cultural pursuits, would find much gra- tification in a visit to the neighbouring small town of Purmerende. Near it he will see the great drained lake called Beemster ; here he will find the richest meadows, the finest cattle, the neatest farm-houses, and the most perfect dairies and cow-stables. Here he may taste in spring and summer the finest butter and Holland. ROUTE 3. — SAAllDAM. PETER THE GREAT. 63 richest cream in the world. He may also learn many useful particulars re- specting' the Dutch system of grazing and breeding cattle. If he has a taste for hydraulics he might here draw a comparison between the wind draining- nulls by means of the screw of Archi- medes, and the method of draining, mis- called Dutch, still pursued in the fens of Lincoln and Cambridgeshire. This district, which is more particularly de- scribed in Route 4, would afford a more correct idea of Holland, and the man- ners of the Dutch, than a mere visit to Broek. To proceed from Broek to Saardam the road must be retraced nearly to Bruiksloot ; thence to Saardam it runs along the back of a huge sea dyke, which follows the indentations of the shore, and keeps out the sea from a dis- trict so intersected in every direction by canals, that the extent of water nearly equals that of dry land. Saardam. — Steamers ply twice a-day in winter, and six times a-day in sum- mer, between Amsterdam (Stadsher- berg) and Saardam across the 1J in 1 hr. ; fare 13 stivers. Saardam (properly Zaandam). — Inns: the Otter, famed for its fish dinners and high charges; it lies close to the water, with a fine view of the river and shipping ; — Morianshoofd (Moor's head). This town stands at the junc- tion of the Zaan with the y : it has 9000 inhab. It consists of a line of windmills, amounting to 400 in num- ber, some of gigantic size, with the houses attached to them extending along the banks of the Zaan to the neighbouring villages of Zaandijk, Kocg, Wormervecr, and Krommenie, and forming together a street nearly 5 m. long. The windmills are turned to a great variety of uses besides that of grinding corn. The water is pumped up and land drained, timber is sawn, paper is made, tobacco chopped into snuff, rapeseed crushed for the oil, and colours ground for the painter, entirely by their agency. The oil-mills are well worth the attention of persons ac- quainted with the state of similar works in England. The oil trade is of great importance here. In some of these windmills a peculiar kind of sandstone, brought from the neighbourhood of Bremen, is reduced into dust solely to furnish the Dutch housewife with sand for her floor. Still more important are those mills in which the volcanic tuff, brought from the borders of the Rhine near Andernach, is ground to powder, to supply, when mixed with lime and sand, that valuable cement called tcr- rass, used in constructing locks, sluices, and dykes, which has the property of hardening under water. Saardam is, secondly, remarkable for the cottage or hut in which Peter the Great lived in 1696, while working as a common shipwright in the shipyards of Mijnheer Calf, a rich merchant, in order to enable himself to instruct his subjects in the art of building ships. He went by the name of Peter Baas, or Master Peter, among his fellow- labourers ; wore a common carpenter's dress, and was seen in that costume hard at work by the great Duke of Marlborough. The building is of rough planks, and leans much on one side, from the founda- tion having given way. It was bought by the late Queen of Holland, sister of the Emperor Alexander, who, in order to protect so venerable a relic from the destroying effects of the weather, caused a case to be built over it, which can be closed with shutters. It consists of two small rooms : in one of them is Peter's bed, which is nothing better than a cup- board, closed in front with doors : above is a loft, which can only be entered by a ladder. The walls of the two rooms, are so covered with names from all countries of the world, in pen, pencil, ink, or cut with a knife, that it is hardly possible to lay your finger upon a vacant inch. Among the rest is that of the Emperor Alexander, who caused a marble tablet to be placed over the chimney-piece with an inscription to this effect : — " Nothing is too small for a great man." The period of Peter's stay at Saar- dam was much more limited than is generally supposed. He suffered so much inconvenience from the concourse of idle gazers who assembled to look 64 ROUTE 4. — HAARLEM TO THE HELDER. Sect. I. at him, that he preferred retiring to Amsterdam, where he could work in* comparative privacy within the walls of the dockyard of the East India Com- pany. Large ships are no longer built at Saardam. Two hrs. are amply sufficient to see all that is remarkable in Saardam, and at the- expiration of that time the steamer will have returned, which will take the traveller back to Amsterdam, enabling him to make the excursion in 4 or 5 hrs. ROUTE 4, HAARLEM TO THE HELDER,. BY ALK- MAAR AND. HET NIEUWE DIEP, AND BACK TO AMSTERDAM. 9^ posts = 46 Eng. m. Steamers twice a day from Amster- dam to Alkmaar, by "Wormerveer, in 3 hrs. The Trekschudt, a commo- dious barge, with 3 cabins, starts eveiy morning, except Sunday, from Willem- sluis near Buiksloot, along the Great North Holland Canal, and reaches the Helder in 12 hrs. (fare, 4 grs. 4 st.). " In proceeding from Haarlem, the tra- veller may embark on the canal at Alk- maar. This is an easy and expeditious route, and affords an opportunity to see the canal and its sluices." (See Route 3-.) There is a daily coach from Haarlem to Alkmaar. But the best way probably of going to Alkmaar is to take the steamer from Amsterdam to Saardam, from which latter place a corresponding steamer runs- to Alkmaar. The steamer arrives at Alkmaar about an hour before the barge starts from Alkmaar to the Helder. North Holland, lying as it does out of the great route between Amsterdam and Rotterdam, has hitherto been rarely visited by travellers. The inhabitants, living removed from intercourse with strangers, retain more of the old cus- toms, habits, and dress of their fore- fathers than is found in South Holland. This province is besides physically in- teresting, from its position and the nature of the soil. It is a peninsula, projecting into the sea ; the borders of it contiguous to the ocean consist of sand; the rest is clay and bog: its length is about 20 leagues, and its greatest breadth 5 or 6. The land lies, almost everywhere, below the level of the ocean, and is protected from its in- roads, from Kijkduin along the coast of the Zuider Zee to Zaandam and Bever- wijk, by large dykes, which, in the neighbourhood of the Helder, surpass in size and strength all others that are to be met with in Holland, except those of West Kappel, in Zealand; so stu- pendous are they that on their account alone this corner of Europe deserves to be explored. It is intersected in its entire length by the Great North Hol- land Canal (see p. &0), through which almost the whole commerce' of Amster- dam now passes. A short distance off its shore were fought some very me- morable engagements between the Dutch and English, especially that of Camper- down, gained by Lord Duncan. The fortress of the Helder, rising out of sand and waves, and the roads of the Texel, lie at the termination of it. The cattle fed upon this tongue of land are famed for their beauty, and the abundance and richness of the milk and cheese which they yield ; the sheep for the fineness of their fleeces and the excellence of their mutton. Those who take an in- terest in hydraulics will find many ob- jects worthy of their attention ; and the works along the Nieuwe Diep will not be passed unnoticed by those who can appreciate the objects in view, and the means by which they have been attained. Last of all, we must espe- cially observe that the females of North Holland are particularly distinguished by their beauty, by the remarkable clearness of their complexions, and by the neatness and givrcefulness of their costume, which is almost peculiar to the district. The back of the head is encir- cled by a broad fillet of pure gold, shaped like a horse-shoe, which confines the hair, and terminates on each side of the temple in 2 large rosettes, also of pine gold, suspended somewhat like blinkers before the eyes of a horse ; over this is worn a cap or A^eil of the finest and richest lace, with lappets hanging down the neck ; and a pair of enor- mous gold ear-rings. These ornaments are often of real gold, even among the Holland. ROUTE 4. — NORTH HOLLAND. ALKMAAR. 65 lower classes, and the cost of them is considerable. Great sacrifices are made to purchase them, and they are con- sidered heir-looms in a family. At the Inns in North Holland it is customary, and even necessary, to pre- vent extortion, to make a bargain with the innkeeper respecting the charge for dinner and other meals, which should bo ordered at so much a-head. This district, indeed, is perhaps the most expensive on the continent for living. Charges — beds, 1 guilder, 10 stivers ; tea, with eggs, 14 stivers ; breakfast, with eggs, cheese, and sausages, 16 stivers. The immediate neighbourhood of Haarlem is pleasing. Not far from the road, and backed by trees, stood the Castle of Brederode, now a picturesque ruin (p. 45) ; beyond this come the Dunes, from whose ridges a view ex- tends on the right over the Wijker nicer, covered with shipping, even to the windmills of Saardam, which may be discerned on a clear day. Near Yelzen botanists may view a splendid collection of exotic plants at the villa of Mr. Van der' Hoop. Admittance is gained by applying to the gardener. After passing Velzen we arrive at Beverwijk {hm, Heerenlogement), a considerable town, a pattern of Dutch purity and neatness, in its clean streets, villa-like houses with fresh painted jalousies and window-sills, and its rows of trees clipped like hedges. At Prin- zens Bosch, or Kruidbcrg, near Bever- wijk, a country seat of William III., the expedition to England, which led to the dethronement of James II. and the Revolution of 1688, was planned and decided on. At Beverwijk the road Leaves the shore of the Wijker meer. The country beyond is almost entirely devoted to pasture, and is covered over with beautiful herds of cattle, which here compose the wealth of the district. Except a few willows, trees have almost entirely disappeared ; the country is one vast meadow. In 1799 an English expedition, which landed at the Holder, penetrated as far as the village called Castricum, where they wore repulsed by the French under General Brune. Farther on, to the 1., stand the ruins of Egmont, from which the noble family, so distinguished in the annals of Holland, derived its origin and name. It was destroyed by the Spaniards. A very small portion of the castle and abbey remains. Many Counts of Holland were buried in the latter. The philosopher Descartes resided here for some time. 3 f Alkmaar. — Inns : Roode Leeuw (Red Lion) ; charges moderate and ac- commodation good. Hotel de Toelast ; the landlord is the proprietor of the diligence between Alkmaar and Haar- lem. Heerenlogement. Alkmaar de- rives its name from the number of mo- rasses and ponds, now dried up, which surrounded it in ancient times ; it has 9000 inhab., and is another example of Dutch neatness and good order, in its streets and houses, that to a traveller is very striking. The Hotel de Ville is a highly ornamented edifice, with Gothic tracery ; it is said to resemble on a smaU scale that of Brussels. The Church of St. Lawrence is a handsome building of the 15th cent. Here may be seen the tomb containing the heart of Count Floris V. of Holland. It has been lately well and carefully restored. The town stands upon the Great Canal of the Texel ; it carries on the most considerable commerce in cheese of any place in the world. A weekly market is held here for the sale of it, to which the fanners and country people for many miles round resort, and dis- pose of the produce of their dairies to merchants, who export it to the ex- tremities of the earth. 9,000,000 lbs. of cheese are weighed annually in the town scales. Alkmaar has many nice walks around it, especially the Wood, similar to those of the Hague and Haarlem. Alkmaar endured, in 1573, a siege from the Spaniards, nearly equal in the severity with which it was urged on by the besiegers, and hardly inferior in the glorious example of bold resist- ance offered by the citizens, to those of Haarlem and Leiden. It was the first enterprise in which the Spaniards tailed ; it allowed the rest of Holland to draw breath and gain confidence. The de- fence was the more noble, since the re- 66 ROUTE 4. ZAND. NIEUWE DIEP. THE HELDER. Sect. I. solution of adhering to the side of the Prince of Orange was not adopted hy the men of Alkmaar until the enemy was at their gates. A very indifferent road leads from Alkmaar to Hoorn, a 3 hrs'. drive. From Alkmaar to the Helder is a drive of 3^ hrs. ; " the charge for a carriage with 2 horses thither, including harriers, driver, &c, comes to 27 guilders, i. e. 10 less than posting." — IT. M. North of Alkmaar, upon the sea- shore, between Kamp and Petten, is a place called Hondsbosche, the worst defended and most dangerous spot along the whole Dutch coast, where the sea is constantly gaining upon the land. As there are no dunes here, the ocean is only kept out hy artificial means, hy building breakwaters, and throwing up jetties at right angles with the beach, which require unremitting care and attention. It is probable that one of the ancient mouths of the fihine en- tered the sea at this point, previous to the formation of the Zuider Zee. (§ 9.) Among the villages seen on the way to Sand is Camperdown y off which was fought Admiral Duncan's action, in which he gained a complete victory over the Dutch in 1797. The dunes (§ 12) near Camperdown are composed of sand so very fine, and so extremely pure and white, that it is exported in large quantities to England, to supply some of our glass manufac- turers. 3J Het Zand. — Inn kept by Hout. The name of the place will give the best idea of its situation , it lies in a dreary waste, all sand, in many places so loose as to be moved about by the wind. The road beyond traverses a com- plete desert, very wearisome to the eye, covered with scanty heaths intermixed with pools of water. The isthmus over which the road is carried is not more than 2 m. broad, and commands a view over the German Ocean on one side, and the Zuider Zee on the other. Here may be observed in summer large numbers of the sea-fowl (Anas tadorna), which builds its nest and lays its eggs in rabbit-holes. 2£ Het Nieuwe Diep, or Willem- soord. Inns : Burg, close to the canal, near the place whence the Amsterdam barge sets off; clean and comfortable. Heerenlogement ; comfortable and mo- derate. Fine view over the harbour. Provisions are dearer here than any- where else in Holland. Though in the midst of the sea, fish are very scarce, but Bordeaux wine is cheap and good. The port of Nieuwe Diep, the Ports- mouth of Holland, about a mile from the Helder, has been entirely formed, by artificial means, within 80 years. It affords protection, by means of piers and jetties stretching out from the shore, to all vessels entering the great canal, even to men-of-war and mer- chantmen of large burden. There is a steam-engine for emptying the dry dock ; and the entrance of the basin is closed by a kind of sluice-gate, called Fan Sluices, from their shape ; by an ingenious contrivance the force of the rising tide is directed against them in such a manner as to shut them, and effectually to exclude itself. The North Holland Canal terminates in the sea at Nieuwe Diep. A row of small houses more than a mile long by the side of a canal extends from it to f The Helder (Inns : Prinsen's ; Heerenlogement), a strongly fortified town, with 10,000 inhab., opposite the island of the Texel. The view from the extremity of the fortifications, look- ing towards it and over the Mars Diep, or entrance into the Zuider Zee, is fine. Down to the end of the last cent, the Helder was little more than a fishing village. Napoleon converted it into a fortress of first rank, capable of con- taining 10,000 men in its bomb-proof casemates, at an expense of many mil- lions of francs. He called it his Northern Gibraltar, but left the forti- fications in a very unfinished state. Its batteries defend the roads of the Mars Diep, and the entrance of the harbour and grand canal. On the highest point of the dimes is Fort Kijkduin, out of the midst of which rises the light- house. The extremity of the tongue of land which forms North Holland, being more exposed to the fury of tempests and the Holland. ROUTE 4. — THE HELDER. THE TEXEL. 67 encroachments of the ocean than almost any other, is defended on all sides by a dyke of the very largest dimensions : within this rampart lie the town and fortress of the Holder. " The great dyke of the Helder, which is nearly 2 leagues in length, is 40 ft. broad at the summit, over which there is a very good road. It descends into the sea by a slope of 200 ft., inclining about 40 degrees. The highest tides are far from covering the top ; the lowest arc equally far from showing the base. At certain distances enormous groynes of timber piles and fascines, covered with stone, averaging in length 200 yards, project into the sea. This artificial and gi- gantic coast is thus composed of blocks of granite and limestone, brought from Norway or Belgium ; and these masses, which look as if it were impossible to move them, are levelled and squared like a pavement. The number of rocks which arc seen at one view are suffi- cient to confound the imagination ; how much more when we think on the quan- tities buried beneath the waves to serve as the foundation of such mountains." — Journey in N. Holland. The Helder is almost the only spot on the coast of Holland where there is deep water close in shore. The rush, or " race," of the tide from the ocean into the Zuider Zee, through the nar- row strait between Helder (Hels-deur — hell's door) and the island of the Texel, constantly scours out the pas- sage and keeps it deep. The passage of the Texel, called De Witt's Diep, was first laid open to Dutch commerce by the Grand Pensionary de Witt, 1665, when, after using the most ex- traordinary efforts to equip a fleet against England, its sailing was pre- vented by the assertion of all the Dutch pilots and commanders that the wind was unfavourable, and the passage out to sea impracticable. In the teeth of this opinion of practical seamen he proceeded in his long boat to this channel, took the soundings with his own hand, found the depth double that which had been set down, and, on his own responsibility, weighed anchor in the largest ship of the squadron, and put to sea through the dreaded gut in spite of the wind, himself leading the van. The British forces sent to Holland, under the command of Sir Ralph Aber- crombie and the Duke of York, in 1799, landed here, and took possession of the Helder, but were compelled to rc-cm- bark a few weeks afterwards, although they were successful at Egmont op Zee, and in several other important actions against the enemy, having fruit- lessly endeavoured to excite the Dutch to rise, and throw off the yoke of France. There is a wild dreariness and dull monotony in the aspect of this district which would render a residence in it hardly endurable. It is a sand-bank, which man appears to have usurped from the sea-gulls, who have not yet abandoned their ancient territory, but flock to it in swarms, breaking the solitude by their incessant screaming cries. It is only when contrasting the barrenness of nature, and the threats of the sea, with the perseverance and successful ingenuity of man, that an interest is thrown over the whole scene, such as no other spot in Europe can be said to possess. The island of the Texel is inhabited by myriads of sea-birds, and by a primi- tive race of shepherds, whose flocks produce fleeces of remarkable length and fineness, which are highly prized. They are of a breed peculiar to the island : a sort of green-coloured cheese is made here of the ewes' milk. In 1845, 32,000 lbs. of ewe-milk cheese were sold here. In returning by land from the Hel- der to Amsterdam the old road must be retraced as far as het Zand ; there a bye-road, in the very worst possible condition after rain, diverges to the E. through Schagen, a beautiful village, situated in a drained lake, called the Zijp, the oldest drained land in North Holland. Flax of a very tine quality is cultivated in the neighbourhood, and Schagen is the market where it is sold. The country hereabouts, and all the way to Amsterdam, is the very opposite to that which has been left behind. It is clothed with the richest verdure, and supports numerous herds of cows and 68 ROUTE 4. THE BEEMSTER. MEDEMBLIK. HOORN. Sect. I. large flocks of sheep, whose wool is famous, and the mutton highly prized : it abounds in old trees, and is sprinkled over with houses, affording by their neatness a sure indication of the owners' prosperity. The district is intersected in all directions by canals; and it is curious sometimes to observe the sails of the barges overtopping the roofs of the houses, and slowly moving along, to all appearances over the fields, as the canal itself is concealed from view. The road continues upon elevated dykes, and, after coasting along the Hugowaard Polder, passes through the village of Rustemburg, by the side of another polder,, the Schermermeer. " In going along the Schermermeer we arrive at the point where the 3 ; pol- ders (§ 11), the Hugowaard, the Scher- mermeer, and the famous Beemster, meet. In the centre of' this kind of triangle is built the pretty town of Schermeer Hoorn, the steeples of which, shining amidst the trees, command the superb basins which surround it. The streets extend along the high land in the 3 directions which are open to them, so as- to give it a most singular form. In order to reach it we had tra- velled along the course of the dyke halfway up. On the left,. 10 or 15 ft. above our heads, was the great canal common to all these polders, and the sails (of boats?) appearing above the trees every instant hid the sun from us. On the right, at the same distance below us, we saw similar canals and windmills, the sails of which were hardly on a level with us, and in a hollow, extending farther than we could see, the herds concealed in the tufted grass of the polder. It was completely the world turned upside down. In some countries we are accustomed to see the sails of the windmills higher than the rudders of the ships, and the goats perched above the crags ;; but in North Holland we must be contented to see everything different from what it is elsewhere.'" — Journey in North Holland. The Beemster is one of the largest, most fertile, and best drained lake-beds or polders. It took 4 years to drain it : the undertaking was commenced in 1808. The finest mutton in all Hol- land is fed upon its pastures. It abounds in large trees, the trunks and lower branches of which are actually painted over with various colours ; whether to improve and increase their beauty, or with some view to utility in preserving them from insects- or moisture, appears uncertain. But the practice, strange as it may appear, prevails in other parts of North Holland. After visiting these singular and in- teresting polders, the traveller may either return to Alkmaar, or may make his way by canal or highway to Broek and Saardam through Med : emblik (Inn, Talk, not good, and dear; 2000 inhab.), an old decayed town, containing the Royal Naval Academy, through which young sailors must pass before they can enter the Dutch navy as midshipmen. About 10 m. E. of Medemblik, on the Zuider Zee, is Ehkhuisen, another decayed town, which once sent out 400'' vessels to the deep sea herring- fishery every year : at present it does not employ 50 ; and its population is diminished one-half. Paul Potter was bom here. A plan has been drawn out for draining the Zuider Zee by throwing a dyke across from between Medeniblik and Enkhuisen to Stavoren, leaving a wide canal for the passage of the tides and the exit of the rivers IJssel, Yecht, &c, and communicating with the IJ at Amsterdam.. The cost is estimated at 5 millions sterling.. (See Ed. Rev., vol. lxxxvi. p. 442.) Hoorn. — Inn : the Oude Doelen is the only tolerable one ; — in it are some remarkable pictures of the old schutterij (militia), in the Spanish times, by Rot- tiers, a pupil of Tan der Heist. In the Stadhuis is shown the sword of the Spanish Admiral de Bossu, who was taken, after a severe engagement, by the Butch, commanded by Admiral D'erks. This is the native place of the mariner "William Schouten, who, in 1616, first doubled the southernmost cape of America, which he named after his birthplace, Cape Hoorn, or Horn. Abel Jansz Tasman, who discovered Van Diemen's Land and Xew Zealand, was also bom here. Hoorn, like many Holland. ROUTE 5. AMSTERDAM TO UTRECHT. 69 other towns of North Holland, is sadly fallen off in trade and prosperity. Its present trade consists chiefly in its exports of butter and cheese, provisions and fish. Its manufactures, ship- building, and even its herring-fishery, are of little value compared with their former magnitude. The great fleet of Ad. dc Ruiter was built here. From the Helder to Hoorn is a journey of 6 hrs. From Hoorn to Purmerende in a car- riage takes 3 hrs., and thence to Buik- sloot (p. 60) 4 hrs. Purmerende (Inn, Heerenlogcment, the only tolerable inn between the Hel- der and Amsterdam^ situated at the S. angle of the Bcemster, on the banks of the Great Canal, and between the 3 polders, the Beemster, the Purmer, and the Wormer. No one should pass through Purmerende or the Bcemster without making trial of the produce of the dairies — the cream, butter, and cheese here arc excellent. The quantity of cheese sold in 1845 in Purmerende was 1,300,000 Dutch pounds. Travellers returning by the canal to Amsterdam should leave the barge at Purmerende and take coach to Broek, and so to Buiksloot. The road from Purmerende to Broek by Monnikcndam is very curious. Monnihendam. — A village of 2000 in- hab. From this place travellers may proceed to Broek and view that curious village ; then to Buiksloot, where they may cross by the ferry to Amsterdam, or, taking the road along the dykes, lengthen their journey to Zaandam ; and, after seeing there the cabin of Peter the Great, embark in the steamer for Am- sterdam, as described in Rte. 3. A trip may be made from Monnikcn- dam to the island of Markcn, where the manners and the mode of living of the inhabitants arc far more curious, because they preserve their primitive simplicity, than in the dull village of Broek. The country forming the "W. shore of the Zuider Zee is so popidous that the line of villages, towns, and gardens [a almost uninterrupted. The neatness, the order, and active industry displayed at every step are highly interesting. In short, the excursion in North Holland is capable of affording much gratification to a traveller, ROUTE 5, AMSTERDAM, BY UTRECHT AND ARNHEM (railway), TO NIJMEGEN. Amsterdam to Utrecht 28 m. ; to Arn- hem 56 m. Arnheni to Nijmcgen. 2 posts = 9h Eng. m. Railway. — Amsterdam to Utrecht. Trains 4 times a day, in one hr. To Arnhem 3 times a day in less than 3 hrs. Terminus at Amsterdam outside the Weesper gate. The immediate neighbourhood of Am- sterdam may be said to consist of an aggregation of polders, (§ 11.) The most remarkable is that called the Dic- mer Meer, one of the deepest of those drained lakes in all Holland : its bottom lies 16 ft. below the level of the sea, which is sometimes augmentod to 30 at very high tides. Abcoude Stat., a pretty village. Vreeland Stat. The country through which the rail- road passes is not very interesting. Nieuu-ersluis Stat. Both sides of the old road and of the river Vecht, between this and Utrecht, are lined with villas, summer-houses, and gardens (§ 13), be- longing principally to 'merchants of Amsterdam. It is almost an uninter- rupted garden all the way, and the taste of the Dutch for horticulture is here seen to perfection. Several very pretty villages are passed. Breukelen Stat. Maarsen Stat. On approaching Utrecht there are various indications that the traveller is about to bid adieu to the flat land : the country presents partial undulations, and a slight current becomes perceptible in the canals. About 3 m. N.W. of Utrecht, on the Vecht, is the old castle of Zuylen, the residence of Francis Borse- len, to whom Jacqueline was married. 28 m. Utrecht — Station. — Inns; H. des Pays-Baa, excellent, one of the best inns in Holland ; 'T K a steel van Ant- werpen (Castle of Antwerp), on the Oude (Iracht, good; BehYvue : many diligences start from this house. Utrecht, called by the Romans, Trajectum ad 70 ROUTE 5. — UTRECHT. STADHUIS. UNIVERSITY. Sect. I. Rhenum (ford on the Rhine), and in monkish Latin Ultra Trajectum, whence comes its modern name, is situated at the bifurcation of the branch of the Rhine called the Old Rhine, and the Vecht. It contains about 50,000 inhab. (20,000 R. Catholics). There is a con- siderable descent from the houses to the surface of the river — a circumstance which distinguishes this from other Dutch towns already described ; the cellars under the quays by the water- side are inhabitated, and are large enough to serve as storehouses and manufactories. Before a great inunda- tion, which occurred 839, the main stream of the Rhine, which was then turned into the Lek, flowed past Utrecht. In the Stadhuis, built 1830, are a few very old pictures from suppressed con- vents, curious rather than beautiful — the best are by Schoreel. The Treaty of Utrecht (1713), which gave peace to Europe by ending the war of the Spanish Succession, was signed at the residence of the Bishop of Oxford, the British Minister, in a house now pulled down and replaced by a barrack called Willemskasern. Many of the prelimi- nary conferences were held in a back room of the old Stadhuis, still remain- ing. The act of confederation (1579), which formed the foundation of the freedom of Holland, and which declared the Seven United Provinces independent of Spain, was signed in the Public Hall (auditorium) of the University. An in- scription intended for it ran thus : Atrium sapiential, incunabula libertatis. The tower of the Cathedral, 321 ft. high (b. 1382), detached from the main building, has a very beautiful top story, and deserves to be ascended on account of the view from it, extending over al- most all Holland, a part of Gueldres and North Brabant, and comprehending, it is said, 20 large towns ; among them Hertogenbosch, Rotterdam, Oudewater, Montfort, Amsterdam, the Zuider Zee, Amersfort, Rheenen, Breda, Gertruiden- burg, Gouda, and the Lek. Midway in the steeple is the dwelling of the sexton, or koster. The nave of the church was thrown down by a storm in 1674, when the wind carried off the roof and twisted the solid stone pillars like willow wands ; and the public street now passes over its site. The lofty choir is a fragment of a noble Gothic edifice ; but it has suf- fered much from fanatic iconoclasts and from modern pewing and high wood- work, in the conventicle style, which hide its beautiful clustered Gothic pil- lars, of great height and lightness. They have, too, been sadly cut away to admit the upper seats, which are arranged like those of a lecture theatre. It contains a monument to Admiral van Gent, who fell in the fight'of Solebay, 1672, by Ver Hulst, and also a very large and very fine organ. The first Bp. of Utrecht was St. Willebrod, an Englishman, who left his own country, in the 7th cent., to con- vert the heathen Frisons, who then pos- sessed the land. He baptized many thousands of them; and the Pope or- dained him bishop over them; while Charles Martel presented to him the castle of Utrecht for his residence and the surrounding district for his see. The University, close to the Cathedral, founded in 1636, has about 450 students ; and, as many of the Dutch aristocracy reside at Utrecht, the greater number of pupils are of the upper classes. There are collections of natural history, mine- rals, &c, belonging to it. The Mint of Holland is situated here. Adrian Floriszoon, afterwards Pope Adrian VI., the tutor of Charles V., was born at Utrecht, in a house still standing on the Oude Gracht : a house built by him still goes by the name of the Pope's house, and now serves as the residence of the Governor. One of the latest improvements here has been the transformation of the ram- parts into Boulevards, so as to render them an agreeable promenade. The Mall, called Mahebaan, is an avenue of 8 rows of lime-trees, half a mile in length on the E. side of the city. It is one of the finest in Europe, and was saved from being cut down by the express command of Louis XIV., at a time when his army spared nothing else in Holland. Travellers going to Xijme- gen by the post-road should desire their drivers to pass through it, as it lies but a little way out of the direct road. The game of Pall Mall is still kept up. Holland. ROUTE 5. — ZEIST. ARNHEM. NIJMEGEN. 71 Utrecht is the head-quarters of the Jansenists, a sect of dissenters from the Roman Catholic church, who object to the bull of Tope Alexander VI I., condemning as heretical certain doctrines of Jansenius Bishop of Ypres. They scarcely exist in any number, except in Holland, where they are now reduced to 5000. Utrecht is the see of their archbishop. Medical men will take an interest in a large collection of anatomical prepara- tions, wax figures, &c., as it is one of the finest of the kind in Europe. Utrecht has some manufactories and bleaching grounds. The gates are shut at night, but admittance is obtained at any hour by paying about 2o?. Omnibus to Vreeswyck (1 hr.), to meet the Rhine steamers, every Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat. ; starts from M. de Groot's Vreeburg. The hire of a carriage, with 2 horses, to Rotterdam (Rto. 9), 12 leagues, is 22 guilders, including tolls and fees to the driver. Railway, 1| hr., 33 m., Utrecht to Arnhem. The road proceeds for a considerable distance through a country abounding in wood. Many fine forest- trees are seen here, and scarcely anywhere else in Holland. Driebergen Stat. — About 3 m. N.W. of this is Zeist (6 m. from Utrecht), re- markable for a Moravian colony settled in it, which deserves to be visited. The whole establishment is distinguished for the order and neatness maintained in it, and is supported by the manufactures of the brothers and sisters. On the N. of the road, near Zeist, is a mound of earth, erected in 32 days by the French army of 30,000 men, under Marmont, on the occasion of Napoleon being made emperor. The other stations are Maars- bergen, Vecncndaal, Edc, Wolfhezen. Arnhkm Stat.— Inns : The Sim, near the station, a new house, fine view ; Zwijnahoofd (Boar's Head), kept by a German ; Goude Arcnd (Golden Eagle), near the railway and the steamer ; New Belvedere Hotel; Cour de Hollande; Hotel dea Pays-Baa. Arnhem, chief (own of Gucldcrland, on the it. bank of the Rhine, 3 m. below the point where the CTssel branches off from it, has 15,000 inhab. It was for- tified by Cochorn, but the ramparts arc now turned into walks. Sir Philip Sydney died here, Oct. 1586, of the wound received in battle near Zutphcn : his wife had come over to soothe his dying hour. Though Arnhem itself has no attractions to detain the traveller, its neighbourhood abounds in villas, parks, and gardens, the finest being that of the Baron de Heeckcren, Hartgesberg — the entrance close to the railway station. The pleasure-grounds are fine, and the view from the Belvedere tower striking. Farther off, near the village of Velp (4 m. E. of Arnhem), are several fine country seats, Biljoen, Beekhuisen, Roozendaal, Middacht, Ridderoord, &c, to the gardens of which the public are allowed admittance. The finest view of Arnhem and the surrounding country is from the grounds of the country seat of the Baron van Brakell. Many of the grounds of the country scats are open ; but some have notices — only in Dutch — of man- traps and spring- gims. This part of Guelderland may, indeed, be termed " the Dutch paradise ; " but its chief attractions, besides those which it derives from art, are, the abundance and purity of its flowing streams, to which the native of other provinces of Holland is a stranger, and the beauty of the trees. Prussian Mail daily from Arnhem to DUsseldorf by Went corre- sponding with the trains. Diligences 4 times a day to Nijnie- gen, daily to Deventer. The road to Nijmcgen crosses the Rhine by a floating bridge, and traverses the district called the island of Betuwe (see p. 84), passing through the villages of Elden and Elst. At Lent, a small village on the Waal, with a tolerable inn, opposite Nijmcgen, a flying bridge conveys carriage and passengers across the Waal to — 2. Nijmegen. (Germ. Nimwegen). — runs (none good, and all dear) : II. des Pays-Bas, near the steam- boats, dear ; Plaats Royal ; Hotel de Franofort ; Rotterdamer Wagen, near the Quai — most of the diligences start from this house. Nijmegen is situated on the 1. bank of the Waal : it has 24,000 inhab. The Romans called it 72 ROUTE 5. NIJMEGEN. Sect. I. Noviomagus. It is a frontier fortress of Holland, strongly defended, and built on the side and slope of a hill called the Hoenderberg, on which the Romans formed a permanent camp to protect their Belgic possessions from inroads of the Germans. As this is a frontier town, passports are taken from strangers on their arrival ; and those who intend to set out early in the morning should take care to regain them overnight. The quay is separated from the town by a wall, and it is difficult to obtain an en- trance at night after the gates are shut. The Town Hall (Raadhuis), a build- ing in the style of the Renaissance (1554), ornamented in front with 2 rows of statues of German emperors, benefactors of the town, is chiefly re- markable as the place where the Treaty of 1678, between Louis XIV., Charles II. of Spain, and the States of Holland, was signed. It contains portraits of the ambassadors* upon this occasion, and a few Roman antiquities, dug up in the neighbourhood, where the ground is constantly disclosing similar relics of the Roman settlement here. The sword with which the Counts Egmont and Horn were beheaded is also shown here. The Church of St. Stephen, begun 1272, is an interesting Gothic building of brick, in the form of a Greek cross, and contains, in the centre of the ancient choir, the monument of Cathe- rine de Bourbon, wife of Adolphus of Egmont, Duke of Gueldres. Her effigy is engraved on a plate of copper, and upon smaller plates at the sides are figures of the Apostles and coats of arms. Upon an elevation, which for Holland is considerable, stood the Castle of Val- Itenhof, commonly called het Hof, said to have been built by Julius Caesar, and inhabited afterwards by Charlemagne. It was demolished in 1794 by the French. The only parts now remain- ing are a fragment of the church and a very perfect circular Chapel or Baptistry near the brow of the hill : it is probably of the 12th or 13th cent. The space of ground adjoining it, once a part of the ramparts of the town, is planted with trees, and serves as a public walk, over- looking the river and quay. On another eminence a little higher up rises the Bel- vedere, a lofty summer-house built by the town, on the foundation of a tower, said to be part of a chateau of the Duke of Alva, now converted into a cafe. The view from its top is pleasing, com- prehending the rivers which branch off at the head of the Delta of the Rhine, viz. the Rhine, the Waal, and the IJssel, with the Maas flowing on the S. This is the most interesting spot in Nijmegen, and, together with the few other sights, may be seen in two hours. The views from Berg-en-dal, Beek, and Upbergen, in the neighbourhood, will also leave agreeable impressions. Nijmegen remained long in the hands of the Spaniards. A bold attempt made in 1589 by Martin Sehenk van Mjdek, a Guelderland nobleman, to surprise the town, failed, and he was drowned. His body, when found by the Spaniards, was quartered and hung in chains to the principal gates, but was afterwards interred in the Great Church. One of these chains is preserved inthetownhall. In 1672, Marlborough, then Captain Churchill of the grenadiers serving under Turenne at the siege of Nijmegen, attracting that great general's praise by his bravery, was called by him. the handsome Englishman. Diligences, 4 times a day, in 2 hrs., to Arnhem (meeting the railway trains to Utrecht and Amsterdam) daily ; the Hague, in 12 hrs. ; Cologne, by Cleves, in about 18 hrs. ; and Dusseldorf in 12 hrs. Steamers to Cologne (see Rte. 34) and down the Rhine (Rte. 1 1) to Rotterdam in 8 hrs, ; in summer daily, in winter 3 times a- week. ROUTE 6. AMSTERDAM TO ARNHEM, BY AMEES- FOORT. 12f posts = 58| Eng. m. Diligence daily in 9 hrs. Pass the Diemermeer polder (see R, 5) . Muiden. — When the forces of Louis XIV. had succeeded in taking Xaarden, the Dutch let in the sea near this point, laid the whole country under water as far as Amsterdam, and thus effectually checked the advance of the invading army, and saved the Low Countries from subjugation. Muiden commands the en- ormous sluice-gates which have been Holland. ROUTE 7. AMSTERDAM TO GRONINGEN. 73 erected since that event. The Dutch his- torian Hooft resided in the chateau. A short distance S. of'Muiden is Weesp, at the mouth of the Vecht ; this place has many distilleries of gin, which is par- ticularly in request for the American market. Amsterdam is supplied with water from a place called Nichtevccht, higher up on the Vecht. 3 Naardcn. — Inn ; Hof van Holland. A fortress with immensely broad ditches, fortified by Coehorn, on the Zuider Zee ; 2000 inhab. It was taken by the Spaniards under Frederick of Toledo, who burnt it to the ground, after having put to the sword all its inhabitants, without distinction of age or sex. It was again taken, in 1672, by the French, and afterwards recovered by William III. It forms the key of all the water communications of Holland. At Naardcn the marsh land ends, and the vast heaths, which extend, with partial interruptions of cultivation, all the way to the Ems and Elbe, begin. Beyond this the road turns away from the sea. 3# Amersfoort — Inn ; Doclen, not good, 9000 inhab., on the Eem — is noted as the birthplace of Barneveldt, Grand Pensionary of Holland. The college for the education of Jansonist priests (sec p. 71) is established here. There are manufactures of bombazcen here, and much tobacco is cultivated and dried in the neighbourhood. About 5 m. from Amersfoort is the beautiful villa of Soestyk, presented by the States of the Netherlands to the present King when Prince of Orange, in gratitude for his conduct at Waterloo. It is prettily situated, surrounded with gardens. There is nothing remarkable in the road by 2{ De Klomp to— 3^ Arnhem (sec Boutc 5). ROUTE 7. AMSTERDAM TO GRONINGEN, LEEUWAR- DEN, HARLINGEN, AND EMDEN — VISIT TO THE PAUPER COLONIES OF FREDE- RIKSOORD, 43± Posts = 204f Eng. m. A steamer every morning from Am- sterdam to Kampen (p. 59), returning [N. 0.] the same afternoon (p. 85), by which a large portion of the land journey may be avoided. Steamers '■'> times a week to Zwolle and to Harlingen in 8 or 10 h. Travellers who follow the land route must not expect to meet with a good road or picturesque country. The man- ners of the inhabitants in the northern provinces of Holland are singular and primitive. 3 Naardcn. -j 3| Amersfoort. I See Route 6. 4 i Hardcrwijk. I 2| Elburg. — Inn, Post. The road passes through Hattem on the left bank of the IJsscl, then crosses that river to — 2~ Zwolle (Inns ; Kcizerskroon, extortionate ; — Heerenlogemcnt), the capital of Overijssel, a prosperous com- mercial town of 14,000 inhab., remark- able for its cleanliness, situated on a small stream called the Zwarte Water. The entrance from Deventer, through an old gateway with peaked turrets, is picturesque. There are good streets and spacious places. The reformed Church of St. Michael contains a handsome carved pulpit. The gardens and walks about the town are very agreeable. A convent, which once stood on the hill of St. Agnes, was the residence, for 64 years, of Thomas a Kempis, whose work on the " Imitation of Christ" is trans- lated into almost every living language. He died here in 1471. G. Tcrburg, the painter, was born at Zwolle, 1608. Through Hasseltand Zwarte Sluis to — 3\ Meppel. — Inn, Heerenlogemcnt. About 15 m. from Meppel, and 3 from Steenwijk, are the Pauper Agricultural Colonies of Frederiksoord and Will- emsoord. There is a tolerable inn on the spot. The great increase of mendicity in Holland after the years of scarcity, 1816 and 1817, led to the formation of a So- ciety of Charity (Maatsehappij van Wel- dadigheid), for the purpose of rescuing from beggary able-bodied labourers and their families, by settling them on waste lands, employing them in rendering these wastes productive, and by educating their children. The project met with the support of the late King. A society was at once formed at the Hague, with E 74 ROUTE 7. — SOCIETY OF CHARITY : PAUPER COLONIES. Sect. I. Prince Frederick as President. In a short time 20,000 subscribers were en- rolled, who contributed 3^ florins each, in all 70,000 fl. (about 5850J.) With this, in 1818, 1300 acres of tolerably good land, and 2600 acres of barren heath, in the province of Drenthe and on the borders of Overijssel, were purchased. The land cost 56,000 florins, 14,000 re- mained. The first operations were ren- dering the river Aa, which runs through the district, navigable to the Zuider Zee, erecting 52 cottages for as many- families, or for 6 or 8 individuals each, a public magazine, a spinning fac- tory, and a school. On Oct. 10, 1818, 52 pauper families, sent from various communes, were settled in the colony, to which was given the name of Frede- riksoord (oord, district). The communes to which they belonged contracted with the society for the reception of these persons, whom they would otherwise be compelled to maintain at home. The expense of estabhshing, with necessary outfits, 3 families or 24 persons, was found to amount to 1600 fl., or about 142/. Loans were then raised, each limited to this amount, as the expense of locating 3 families : these were ad- vanced by the government, by the King in his private capacity, by communes, and by benevolent societies or individuals. For each loan the contributors were al- lowed to send 3 families. There are now (1848) upwards of 2000 families at Frederiksoord and the adjoining colony of Willemsoord. Each family has a separate cottage, built at a cost to the society of 40/. The original plan was to give every family 3 acres of land, half of it having been rendered produc- tive beforehand, a cow, and a pig. They were also furnished with clothes, implements of agriculture, and provi- sions for a certain period. All this and other advances were set down as a debt to the society, to be repaid by the earn- ings of the colonists and by the produce of the land. The instances of the com- plete discharge of the original debt are very rare indeed, and the managers soon rested satisfied if no new debts were contracted in addition to the first. The whole establishment was placed under the superintendence of a director : a sub-director was appointed to preside over each 100 families, a quarter-master over 20 families, and a section-master, thoroughly and practically an agricul- turist, over 12 families. Except in 30 or 40 cases, in which the parties are in the position of tenants to the society, and pay as on lease for their 3-acre allotments, the colonists now work for the society on any lands desired, and have no longer any con- nexion with 3 acres : each family, how- ever, still receives a house, a cow, and a garden not exceeding 1 acre. One reason for this change was, that there were many incapacitated for cultivating lands, but able for other trades. Ee- claiming and cultivating the land is, however, the chief employment of the colonists, and those who are ignorant of agriculture are instructed. The spade and hoe have been chiefly used. All work is performed by the piece and not by time. Each labourer receives, at the end of the day, a card stating the amount of his earnings, for which he receives an equivalent in potatoes, bread, &c. There is a maximum fixed ; if he earns more than that per week the surplus is put in reserve and given him at the end of the year, after deducting for the administra- tion of the colony, &c. : he also receives some clothes quarterly. The idle are compelled to work, or, if they refuse, are sent off to the penal colony of Om- merschans. At seasons unsuited to field labour the women are employed in spin- ning and weaving. The children are instructed in schools built on the spot, and are entirely in the schools until they are 12 years old, or, if backward, 13 ; they then commence work at weav- ing or out-of-door work, &c. &c. The children are only kept in the colony until 20 to 23 years of age, when they are desired to provide for themselves. There .are places of worship for Lutherans. Catholics, and Jews. The education of the children is intrusted to the care of the managers. Houses have been built by the co- lonists with bricks formed from the clay dug on the spot, cemented with lime produced from shells brought from the sea -shore, and burnt with turf found on the land. The houses are Holland. ROUTE 7. — SOCIETY OF CHARITY : TENAL COLONIES. 75 built at intervals along the side of broad roads crossing each other at right angles, and are all on one plan, and are well adapted for the comforts of a fa- mily. They are thatched with reeds, which are said to be more durable than straw or heather, lasting from 20 to 30 years. This reed (Arundo phragmitis) grows by the sides of the canals and rivers, 6 and 7 ft. high. Besides these two free colonies, two others, having much the character of Penal Colonies, have been established — one at Vecnhuizen, 15 m. from Fre- dcriksoord and 9 from Assen, but situated on the same uninterrupted heath. It was originally proposed to settle here the children of the different orphan asylums in the towns of Hol- land, under the idea that the situation and air of the large towns were detri- mental to their health. Accordingly, the society agreed to receive them for a consideration of 60 guilders per an- num for each child. This scheme, however, did not meet with general approval, and was subsequently aban- doned, and the establishment converted into a mendicity colony. It corre- sponds nearly in its character, arrange- ments, and discipline with that of Om- merschans, a few miles from Meppel. This was a dilapidated fortress, situ- ated also in the midst of a heath. It serves as a penitentiary for refractory free colonists, and for the amendment of beggars and idle persons, but not criminals, sent by their parishes or the government. They are compelled to work either as field labourers or in the workshops. They are generally sent for a certain number of years, to reform idle habits. Punishments of various kinds are inflicted on the refractory. A value is put on their daily work, and they receive a certain portion for them- selves. The colony is said not to be entirely self-supporting. The number of detenus amounts to about 2000, in- cluding women and children. Their escape is prevented partly by a canal which surrounds the building, partly by a cordon of watchmen established in 25 cottages built in a circle, at the distance of 5 minutes' walk from one another. The experiment has been tried now for 30 years, and though, in point of profit, it has not realized the sanguine expectations of its projectors, nor as a commercial speculation is likely to suc- ceed, yet it has succeeded in the bene- volent objects at which it aimed, by rescuing many hundred individuals and families, previously paupers and friend- less, from vice and destitution ; making them useful members of society ; and in rendering fertile and profitable, and capable of supporting human beings, large tracts of land previously desert and useless, which are daily increasing in value. The expenses of these co- lonies have indeed become so great a burden, that the government has been seriously contemplating their abolition, and is only withheld from such a step by the not knowing how to provide for the persons supported on them. The founder and originator of these valuable institutions was the late Ge- neral Van den Bosch, who was the first director. While serving in the Dutch colonies in the East, he purchased an estate in the island of Java, and devoted much of his time to improvements in agriculture. It did not long escape his observation that the estate of a native mandarin, which lay next to his own, and resembled it in soil and situation, never failed, in spite of all the pains he took with his own land, to produce far finer crops. This induced him to form an acquaintance with his neigh- bour, from whom he learnt a system which proved so beneficial, that the estate, which he purchased in Java for 25,000 rix dollars, fetched 150,000 when sold, on his departure from the country. The secret of the mandarin's luxuriant crop appears to have been the attention he paid to obtaining a good stock of manure for his land ; to this the efforts of the colonists arc studiously directed. (See a Journal of a visit to the Dutch dairy farms, in 1848, by Lord Blantyre, published in the Industrial Magazine.) The direct road to Groningcn runs through Assen. It takes about 8 hrs. to travel by Trekschuit from Meppel to Assen. 3 Dicverbrug. 3 Assen. A Tillage of onlv 1800 E 2 76 ROUTE 7. — ASSEN. LEEUWARDEN. GRONINGEN. Sect. I- inhab., though, the chief place in the j province of Drenthe. It has two Inns ; both execrable : the Post is the least bad. (Goldner Bomer.) Near Assen, at Ballo and Suidlaaren, occur examples of those very singular sepulchres of an ancient people, commonly called Hiine- bedden : they are usually large stones placed upright in the ground, in rows, surrounded by circles of smaller stones, or covered by others laid across, and open at the end ; some are 80 feet long. Urns, hatchets, hammers, and other articles of wood and stone, but none of metal, have been found in them. The road from Meppel to Leeu- warden passes through Steenwyk to — 5 Heerenveen. 4 Leeuwarden (Inn, Nieuwe Doe- len, very good), chief town of the pro- vince of Friesland, with a population of more than 17,000 souls. In one of the churches are monuments of the Stad- holders of Friesland, which the French defaced. The fortifications are turned into plantations. Leeuwarden possesses a large and handsome Townhouse. The facjade of the House of Correction (Huis van Burgerlijke en Militaire Verzeker- ing), with the date. MD., is worthy of observation. It is a "rich specimen of mixed brick and stone work, with 7 statues representing Virtues, &c, upon the steps of the quaint gable. Just within the Harlingen gate stands a fine old leaning church tower, of bricks of two colours and grey stone : the body of the church was destroyed by a storm. From the top of the tower is a fine view over the rich pastures of Friesland to Harlingen. No province of Holland has pre- served, to the same extent, its ancient manners and costumes as that of Fries- land. The head-dress of the women, the gold hoops and pendants, and the beautiful lace caps, are especially de- serving of remark. Such a head-dress sometimes costs 2000 guilders. These costumes may be seen in perfection at Leeuwarden on market-day. The wo- men are celebrated for beauty. Many of the towns, villages, and even farm- houses, and all the old churches, are built on mounds (teepen) raised above the surface, which originally afforded refuge to the inhabitants from inun- dation, before the country was properly dyked. The Frieslanders pride them- selves on having been from the earliest times a free and independent people, governed by laws of their own, enacted at their legislative assemblies during the middle ages. The Asegabok, a code of laws of the Eustringian Frisians, of the 13th cent., is the earliest collec- tion of these enactments that exists. Frisic is still the language of the inha- bitants of Heligoland and the belt of islands that extends along the coast from the Zuider Zee to Jutland, and is also spoken in some villages and districts of E. and W\ Friesland and Sleswick. 12 m. E. of Leeuwarden is the sea- port of Harlingen (Inn, Heerenloge- ment), on the Zuider Zee, with 9000 inhab. There is a steamer from Lon- don to Harlingen every "Wednesday, and 2 every Saturday. Much butter, the product of Friesland, is exported hence. It stands on the site of a town swallowed up by the sea in 1134, and is itself protected by one of the largest dykes in Holland, 40 ft. high, fenced in at its base with 3 rows of piles driven into the ground. The monument erected by the Dutch to the Spanish Governor Boblas, who first introduced (1570) an improved method of con- structing these sea-walls, still exists S. of the town ; gratitude for the benefits conferred having proved stronger than national hatred against a Spaniard. A Trekschuit goes daily from Harlingen to Groningen, by Franeker and Leeu- warden ; and a steam-boat to Amster- dam 3 times a week. About 32 m. E. of Leeuwarden (6 hrs. by diligence), and connected with it by a grand canal extending from the river Ems to Harlingen on the Zuider Zee, lies 4. Grcotxgen (Inns: Pays-Bas; Doelen ; De Groote Miinster ; TTapen van Amsterdam), a fortified town at the junction of the Hunse and Aa ; the most important of the X. provinces of Holland. 30,000 inhab. The University, founded in 1615, is frequented by about 400 students, and has an excellent museum of natural history. The finest buildings are the Holland. ROUTE 8. AMSTERDAM TO BREMEN". 77 great Church of St Martin, a handsome Gothic structure, and the Hotel de Ville, a modern huilding, faced with Portland stone ; hoth situated in the Bree Markt, one of the grandest squares in Holland. On the Osscnmarkt is the monument of Guyot, the founder of an institution for the deaf and dumh, which is still flourishing. By means of a canal called Schuiten- diep, large vessels come up from the sea to the town. 4| Winschoten. Inn, Post, hest, hut bad ; last town in Holland ; 2000 inhab. If Neue Schanze, a small frontier fortress of Hanover, strong from its position among swamps, which render approach difficult. 2| Weener on the Ems, here a broad river, crossed by a ferry for horses and carnages. 1 Leer (Inn, Konig von Preussen, good ; Prinz v. Oranien), a town of 5000 inhab., with a considerable trade to England in agricultural produce. " Between Leer and Oldenburg, in the middle of the swamp, is a little pri- mitive district called Saterland, where the old Frisian language is still spoken." — F. S. There is steam communica- tion from Leer to Emden, but bad tra- velling by land. 2 Emden [Inn, Post, in the market- place), a fortified town, capital of the Hanoveiian province of E. Friesland, contains about 15,000 inhab. It has the most extensive trade in oats of any port in Europe. It lies in a marshy situation ; but the land around it is of great fertility, yielding, besides oats, much butter and cheese. In the Rath- haus is a curious collection of ancient arms and armour. The town lies be- low the level of the Ems, and is de- fended against it by strong dykes, not- withstanding which it has suffered from repeated inundations. A canal is now constructing between strong dykes con- necting Emden with the deep water of the Dollart ; and the town will, when this is completed, be protected by a high and strong embankment against the incursions of this estuary. In 1826 the water stood in the streets for 3 months up to the first floor of the houses. On the ramparts were buried many thousand British officers and sol- diers who died here from the sufferings they endured in the retreat of the Duke of York's army from Holland, in the dreadful winter of 1791. Backhuiscn and Moucheron, painters, were born here. Steamers to Delfzyl in Groningen eveiy day. The shortest way from Groningen to Emden, and the best in not very bad weather, is by Treckschuit to Delfzyl, in 5 or 6 hrs., through the picturesque village of Appingadam. At Delfzyl is a little seaport inn, the Post. A good steamer crosses the Dollart every day, in about \\ hr., to Emden ; on its arrival at which place, another steamer starts for Leer, which is reached in about 2£ hrs. from Emden. Travel- lers bound for Oldenburg and Bre- men may proceed on at once by dili- gence from Leer to Oldenburg, a jom-- ney of 8 or 9 hrs. Steamers proceed up the Ems beyond Leer. EOUTE 8. AMSTERDAM TO BREMEN. 23^ Dutch posts ; and 20| Germ. m. Diligence byway of Osnabruck. A tedious road through a country almost entirely heath, beyond 3 Naarden, ) gee Routc 6> 3| Amersfoort. J 2 Voorthuizen. 3~ Appledoorn, a pretty village. Not far from it is the Palace of the Loo, the summer residence of the late King of Holland : the gardens are ex- tensive, but flat ; they contain fine sheets of water. It was the favourite retreat of William III., who repaired hither to hunt. There is a good Inn near the palace. 2 Deventer (Inns ; Nieuwe Kci- zers Kroon (Imperial Crown) ; 't Wapen van Overijssel), a thriving town on the bank of the IJssel, 14,000 inhab., and a considerable iron-foundry and carpet manufactory. The Cathedral is a vast and venerable edifice, in the late Gothic style, surmounted by a handsome tower; it contains some good painted glass. The English forces, under the Earl of Leicester, 78 ROUTE 9. ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT. GOUDA. Sect. I, gained possession of Deventer in 1586 ; but Col. "Wm. Stanley, who was ap- pointed governor, treacherously yielded it to the Duke of Parma in 1587, tak- ing over with him his regiment of 1300 men. He became a traitor from a principle of conscience, believing his duty to his country to be incompatible with that which he owed to the Romish faith. This is the native place of the philologer Gronovius, and Erasmus went to school here. Deventer is cele- brated for its gingerbread ; and in order to keep up its reputation, an officer, appointed by the magistrates, inspects the cakes before they are baked, in order to ascertain that the dough is properly mixed. Many thousand pounds of this gingerbread are annually exported. Travellers should ask for the Deventer Koek, at the shop of W. J. Smies, called the Allemans Gacling, in the Groote Kerkhof E., No. 1354. It is close to the house at which the diligence stops. 2 Holten. 3 Almelo. 2^ Ootmarsum. 2 Nordhorn ; first town in Hanover. The distance to this place is 23J Dutch posts. German miles and posts begin at the frontier. Here the Dutch brick chaussee ends ; beyond, the road, though inferior, is improved of late, and tolerable. 2| Lingen. Inn bad, charges ex- orbitant. 4 Herzlake. If Loningen. 3^ Kloppenberg. 2 Ahlhorn. 2 "Wildeshausen. Delmenhorst. 2 Bremen. See Route 69. ROUTE 9. ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT, BY GOUDA. 6| posts = 30± Eng. m. Steamer once a-day, at 2 p.m., to de Vaart, from thence by diligence to Utrecht ; arrival at Utrecht 7|- p.m. : from Utrecht at 8 a.m., after the arrival of the first trains from Amsterdam and Arnhem ; arrival at Rotterdam 12 h. 30 m. Diligences twice a-day to Utrecht. Steamer to Gouda, started in 1848, at 9 o'clock a.m., from Rotterdam, reaching Gouda in about 2 hrs., and left Gouda for Rotterdam at 2 p.m., allowing thus full time to see Gouda. Fare, 90 cents. : but return or "double journey" tickets (personaal kaarten voor de heen en terugreize), 1 fl. 50 cents. The road to Gouda is conducted along the high dyke, constructed, in 1272, by the side of the IJssel, to pro- tect the country from inundations. On the way lies the Zevenhuisische Plas, one of the most recent instances of the draining of a polder (§ 11). At Kordenoord, near Gouda, may be seen 2 of the finest windmills in Hol- land ; they are of vast size and admir- able construction. 2^ Gouda or Tergouw. Inns ; Doe- len, very good ; Salmon (Zalni) . A decayed town of 17,500 inhab. ; with a large grass-grown square. The large Ch. of St. John (Jans Kerk) is famous for its painted glass windows, considered to be nearly the finest in Europe. They are for the most part 30 ft. high (2 are nearly double that height), and finished with great atten- tion to the details, but are of various degrees of merit. They were executed, between 1560 and 1603, by 2 brothers, Dirk and Wouter Crabeth, and their pupils and assistants. One (No. 10), having been destroyed by a storm, was restored in 1655, and by its inferiority proves the art to have been then on the decline. The finest are by the Crabeths, and are pointed out by their initials in the following enumeration. They were presents from towns or wealthy indi- viduals, made on the rebuilding of the church after a fire, about the year 1560. Very elaborate drawings of them, by Christoph. Pierson, are preserved in the vestry. A small book, very diverting, from its quaint English and mis-spell- ing, is sold by the verger for 5 stivers, intituled " Explanation of the famous and renowned Glas-work or painted Windows, in the fine and eminent Church at Gouda, for the use and com- modity of both Inhabitans and Foreign- Holland, route 9. — gouda. 10. — iiague to utrecht. 79 its that come to sco this artificial work." The subjects of the windows are as fol- lows, beginning on the left hand on entering the church by the door under the steeple : — 1. An allegorical repre- sentation of Liberty of Conscience. 2. The taking of Damietta by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa in the :3rd Crusade. 3. The Virgin of Dort. 4. Justice and Valour with the Arms of the Lords of Rhineland. 5. The Queen of Shcba \ isits Solomon, by W. Crabcth. 6. Siege of Bethulia : Beheading of Ho- lofernes, by D. Crabeth. 7. The Last Supper, with Queen Mary of England and Philip II. of Spain, the donors, kneeling. The upper part of this window was destroyed by a hailstorm. By D. C. 8. The Sacrilege of Helio- dorus, by W. C. 9. The Angel appear- ing to Zacharias. 10. The Annuncia- tion. 11. Birth of John the Baptist. 12. The Nativity, by W. C. 13. Christ among the Doctors. 14. John the Bap- tist Preaching, by B.C. 15. The Bap- tism of Christ, by B. C. 16. Sermon on the Mount, by B. G. 17. John the Baptist rebuking Herod. 18. John the Baptist's Disciples questioning Christ, by B.C. 19. Beheading of John the Baptist. 20 and 21 represent the Suf- ferings, Resurrection, and Ascension of Christ. 22. The Money-changers driven from the Temple, by B. C. 23. The Offering of Elijah before the Priests of Baal, by W. C. 24. The Angel send- ing Philip to baptize the Ethiopian, and Peter and John healing the Lame Man, by B. C. 25. The Belief of Lei- den, and Raising the Siege. 26. The Relief of Samaria. 27. The Pharisee and Publican in the Temple. 28. The Woman taken in Adultery. 29. Nathan reproving David. 30. The "Whale east- ing forth Jonah. 31. In the S. tran- sept, Balaam and his Ass. Besides these, there are 13 windows above the choir, representing Christ and his Apostles. " The church contains a very power- ful and sweet-toned organ, in which the vox hxmana stop is especially fine." — //. F. C. The Hotel de Villa was the residence of Jacqueline of Bavaria, whose part was taken by the citizens during the civil wars of the Hooks and Kabel- jauws (Hooks and Codfish, the names of two factions, like Whig and Tory with us). It was of fine old "red brick and stone, but has been white- washed. There are large manufactories of bricks here. The clay for bricks is scraped up out of the bed of the IJssel, with a sort of hoe having a sack at- tached to it, and is particularly well adapted for the purpose. Tobacco-pipes were also made here in large quantities. The clay for them was brought from the banks of the Moselle, and the neighbourhood of Namur. The pipes are shaped in moulds of brass ; but the most difficult operation, the boring, is done by the hand, with a piece of iron wire blunt at the extremity, and re- quires great dexterity in the workmen. The trade has fallen off, owing to the prevalence of cigars. Very few people are now employed in it. The best cheese in Holland is a new- milk cheese called Gouda cheese, being- made near this town. The Rhine communicates, for ship navigation, with the IJssel and Meuse, by Gouda. A ship-lock at the Gouda Sluis passes the vessel across the dyke of the Rhine into a spacious canal connected with the Krommc Gouda river. This last was made in 1281 as a slaker to the Rhine. It is 9 m. long, and has an excellent tide-lock at Gouda, 153 ft. long and 25 ft. wide in the chamber. A cross-road, not very good, conducts from Gouda to Woerden, a town of 2600 inhab., on the banks of the Old Rhine. Best Inn, Vcerhuis. 4 Utrecht. (See Routes 5 and 10.) ROUTE 10. THE IIAGUE TO UTRECHT. 9 posts = 41^ Eng. m. From the Hague to Leiden, Rail- road, sec Route 2 ; if by road, then as follows : — Near Voorburg is the house of Hofwyk, built by Constantine Huy- gens, the poet and statesman, described by him in his poems, and afterwards inhabited by Christian Huygens, the mathematician, and discoverer of Sa- so ROUTE 11. — THE RHINE. Sect. I. turn's ring. Farther on, at the village of Leydschendam, the traveller may remark the difference of level of the waters of two districts, the Eijnland on one side, and the Delftland on the other, which are here separated hy a lock. 2§ Leiden is described at page 37. A diligence runs every morning, in 5 hrs., from Leiden to Utrecht. On leaving Leiden, before reaching Kouderkerk, is Rembrand's mill, where he was born ; it lies on the 1. hand in going to Utrecht, between the road and the Rhine. See p. 41. 2 Alphen. Inn, The Star, is famed for its perch dressed in waterzootje in high perfection. Beyond this the road passes the beautiful villages of Zwam- merdam and Bodegraven, and after- wards through 2% Woerden, all memorable as the scenes of the atrocities committed by the French army, under Marshal Lux- emburg, in 1672. Their cruelty, as described by Voltaire, is not exagge- rated : so great was the hatred which it inspired in the minds of the Dutch, who were witnesses of their conduct, that descriptions of the war, called " Fransche Tyranny," were written and printed as school-books for their chil- dren to read, calculated to hand down an inheritance of hate for their enemies to future generations. 2 Utrecht. There is a more direct road from the Hague, avoiding Lei- den and Woerden, by Yoorburg (1~ post), Gouda (3~), Utrecht (4), in Route 5. ROUTE 11. THE RHINE, A, FROM ROTTERDAM TO NIJMEGEN. Travellers, whether in search of amusement or pressed for time, should avoid the voyage up the lower part of the Rhine, below Cologne, because there are two other very interesting- routes from England to Cologne ; one by Rotterdam, Hague, Amsterdam, and Utrecht (Rtes. 2 and 5), w r hich, however, is somewhat circuitous; the other by Ostend, or Antwerp, and Brussels (Rtes. 17, 21, and 23), which is the shortest way from London, and by far the quickest since the formation of railroads through Belgium. The best way to visit the Rhine from England is to go by Belgium and its railways, and return by Holland down the Rhine. The Rhine below Cologne is a most uninteresting river, with high dykes on each side, which protect the flat country from in- undations and intercept all view, save of a few villages, church steeples, and farm-houses, painted of various colours, which are seen peering above them. There are three companies of Steamers on the Rhine, — the Cologne, distin- guished by black funnels ; the Diissel- dorf, by funnels with alternate stripes of black and white ; and the Nether- lands, by funnels half white and half black. The Cologne boats are the best, but go no lower down than Diisseldorf, where the passengers are transferred to the Netherlands Company's boats. The Diisseldorf Company also change boats at Diisseldorf, stopping 2 or 3 hrs. there in the middle of the night. There being no sleeping accommodation on board, and no restrictions as to the number of passengers, this passage is very imcomfortable, both pavilion and saloon being generally uncomfortably crowded. Between Rotterdam and Nijmegen there is a risk of sitting on a sandbank for an hour or two till the tide rises, and there is always a detention of some hours at the Prussian frontier. Steam-boats leave Rotterdam every morning in the summer, and every other morning in the latter part of the season. The hour of departure varies with the tide. They reach Nijmegen or Arnheni in about 12 hrs. Here passengers have the option of sleeping on board or ashore. For Fares refer to the printed bills of the companies. The State Cabin has the advantage over the first cabin, that it is private ; it is, therefore, often convenient to secure it for a party in which there are several ladies. Beds are charged 1 guilder = Is. 8d. extra-. A carriage, not accompanied by pas- sengers, costs 21. Is. 2d. ; with three or more persons, only 1/. 3s. N.B. If the traveller's passport has ROUTE -THE RHINE: WAAL BRANCH. DORT. not received a Prussian signature in England, it may be signed by the Prussian consul in Rotterdam. The Rhine, flowing out of Germany into Holland, descends in an undivided stream as far as the point of the Delta (the Insula Batavorum of the Romans). At a place called Pannerden it splits into two branches. From this division of its stream, Virgil applies the epithet bicornis to the Rhine (TEn. viii. 727). The left-hand branch, called the Waal or Vahal, directing its course W., passes Nijmegcn, joins the Mouse, and, in conjunction with it, assumes the name of Merwe. The other branch, which, after the first separation, retains the name of Rhine, turns northward ; £ a league above Arnhem it throws out an arm called IJssel, known to the ancients as Fossa Dnisi, because it was formed by Drusus in the reign of Augustus : it falls into the Zuider Zee after passing Zutphen, Dc venter, and Campen. The river after this continues on past Arn- hem to Wijk by Duurstedc, and there again divides, throwing off to the 1. an arm called the Lck, which falls into the Maas a little above Rotterdam. The other arm, still retaining the ori- ginal name of Rhine, after this sepa- ration, divides for the last time at Utrecht ; the offset is called the Vecht, and flows into the Zuider Zee. The old Rhine, the sole remnant of the once mighty river which carries its name to the sea, assumes the appearance of a canal, and, after passing sluggishly the town of Leiden, enters the ocean through the sluice-gates of Katwijk (see p. 41). a. THE WAAL. *** The right (rt.) and left (I) banks of a river are those which lie on the right or left hand of a person turning his back to the quarter from which the river descends. The Waal is the largest and most important of the 4 branches into which the Rhine divides its stream on reach- ing Holland. On quitting Rotterdam the guard- ship is passed, and (/.) Feycnoord, where is the largest engineering esta- blishment and foundry in Holland. Numerous country seats of rich Rot- terdam merchants arc scattered along the banks. The narrow arm of the Maas, called Spaniard's-Diep, is lined with shipyards, cottages, and wind- mills. JThe river Lek here falls into the Maas. A short distance higher up lies — I. Dort or Dordrecht (Inns : Ik'llevue ; Wapen van America ; and Valk), one of the oldest towns in Hol- land, with 21,000 inhab., and consider- able trade. The first Assembly of the States of Holland, held after their revolt from the yoke of Spain, met at Dort in 1572, and declared the Prince of Orange Stadholder, and the only lawful Go- vernor of the country . In an ancient Gothic building, stand- ing in a back street, and now degraded into a poor public-house, called Klove- niers Doelen, the famous assembly of Protestant divines, known as the Synod of Dort, was held, 1618-19. It lasted 6 months, during which there were 152 sittings, unprofitably occupied, for the most part, in discussing the incom- prehensible questions of Predestination and Grace. At the conclusion the pre- sident declared that " its miraculous labours had made hell tremble." The result of its labours was to declare the Calvinistic doctrines respecting predes- tination the established faith, and to condemn Arminius and his followers as heretics. The ordinances then passed were long the law of the Dutch national church. The apartment in which the Synod met is still preserved unaltered ; but, when visited recently by a Scotch traveller, was found filled with the scenes and trappings belonging to a party of strolling players, and converted temporarily into a theatre ! The Gothic Church, conspicuous at a long distance, owing to its tall square tower, contains a beautifully carved pulpit of white marble, adorned with bas-reliefs, numerous monuments, and some church plate of massive gold, pre- sented by an East India nun-chant. The Mint is a building of the 15th cent. Dort serves as a haven for the gigantic rafts of wood, the produce of the forests of Switzerland E 3 and tho 82 ROUTE 1 1 . THE RHINE. BIESBOSCH. LOEVESTEIN. Sect. I. Schwarzwald, which, are brought clown the Rhine by crews of from 400 to 500 men each, and are here broken up and sold. A single raft sometimes produces 30,000/. A description of them^will be found in the route from Cologne to Mayence. The celebrated brothers De Witt were born here, also Cuyp and Schalken the painters, and Vossius. After a general survey of the town, which is truly Dutch in its combination of sluices and canals, and a visit to the old church, the timber-ponds where the raft-wood is collected, the windmills where it is sawn into planks, and the ship-builders' yards, there is nothing to detain a traveller here. A constant communication is kept up by steam- boats with Rotterdam and Moerdijk, which is on the road from Rotterdam to Antwerp (p. 88). Dort stands on an island formed by a terrible inundation in 1421, when the tide in the estuary of the Rhine, excited by a violent tempest, burst through a dyke, overwhelming a populous and productive district, which it at once converted into a waste of waters, called the Biesbosch (i. e. rushwood, from bies, rush, whence the English besom), part of which still exists. 72 villages and 100,000 human beings were swal- lowed up by the waves. 35 of the vil- lages were irretrievably lost, so that no vestige, even of the ruins, could after- wards be discovered. The only relic preserved from the waters is a solitary tower, called the house of Merwede. By this inundation the number of the mouths of the Rhine was increased, and the Waal was made double its former size. Many maps, as well as guide- books, represent this district as still under water, but a large part of it has been recovered ; still the river here spreading out bears the aspect of a lake interspersed with numerous islands, un- inhabited, but producing hay in abun- dance. The country about Dort seems choked with water ; every hollow is full, and the fear is excited lest, by the rising of the Rhine a foot, or even an inch or two, the whole should at once be over- whelmed by the waters. The Ablasser Waard, near- Gorcum, lies considerably lower than the bottom of the bed of the Rhine ! There are numerous and in- tricate sandbanks between Dort and rt. Gorcum, or Gorinchem, an old walled town, at the junction of the Merwe and Linge, and one of the first places taken by the Water Gueux from the Spaniards in 1572 ; but they sullied their victory with the murder of 19 Catholic priests, for which their com- mander, Lumey, was disgraced by the States General. The anniversary of the Holy Martyrs of Gorcum is still ob- served in the Romish calendar. The canal of Zederick connects Gorcum on the Merwe with Vianen on the Lek. Nearly opposite Gorcum is (I.) Woud- richem, or Worcum. (/.) The Castle of Loevestein, situated on the west point of the island of Bom- mel, formed by the united streams of the Meuse and the Waal, was the prison of Grotius in 1619. The history of his escape in a box, March 22, 1621, gives an interest to the spot : — " He beguiled the tedious hours of confinement by study, relieving his mind by varying its objects. Ancient and modern lite- rature equally engaged his attention. Sundays he wholly dedicated to prayer and the study of theology. He com- posed the greater part of the ' Jus Belli et Pacis ' here. 20 months of impri- sonment thus passed away. His wife now began to devise projects for his liberty. She had observed that he was not so strictly watched as at first — that the guards who examined the chest used for the conveyance of his books and linen, being accustomed to see nothing in it but books and linen, be- gan to examine them loosely ; at length they permitted the chest to pass without any examination. Upon this she formed her project for her husband's release." She accommodated the chest to her purpose, by boring some holes in it to let in air. She intrusted her maid with the secret, and the chest was conveyed to Grotius' s apartment. She then re- vealed her project to him, and, after much entreaty, prevailed on him to get into the chest, and leave her in the prison. The books which Grotius bor- rowed were usually sent to Gorcum, and the chest which contained them Holland, route 11. — the rhine. — grotius. nijmegen. 83 passed in a boat from the prison at Loevestein to that town. Big- w ith tho fate of Grotius, the chest, as soon as he was enclosed in it, was moved into the boat, accompanied by the maid. One of the soldiers ob- serving that it was uncommonly heavy, the maid answered, " It is tho Arminian books which are so heavy." The soldier replied, apparently in joke, " Perhaps it is the Arminian himself;" and then, \rithout more ado, the chest was lodged in the boat. The maid accompanied it to Gorcum, and, when fairly afloat, made a signal with her handkerchief to her mistress that all was right. The window where Grotius' s wife stood is still pointed out in Loevestein. The passage from Loevestein to Gorcum took a considerable time. At length it reached Gorcum, and was deposited at the house of Jacob Daatzelaar, an Ar- minian friend of Grotius. The maid flew instantly to him, and told him that her master was in the box ; but Daat- zelaar, terrified for the consequences, declared he would have nothing to do with so dangerous a matter. Luckily his wife had more courage ; she sent away the servants on different errands, opened the chest, and set Grotius free. He declared that while he was in the chest, which was not more than 3J ft. long, he had felt a little faintness and much anxiety, but had suffered no other inconvenience. Having dressed him- self as a mason, with a rule and trowel, he went through the back door of Daat- zelaar" s house, accompanied by Daatze- laar' s wife's brother, a mason by trade, along the market-place, to a boat en- gaged for the purpose. It conveyed them. to Waalwijk, in Brabant, where he was safe. In the mean time every precaution had been taken by Madame do Groot to conceal her husband's de- parture from the governor and his jailors. She took particular care to light the lamp in the room whero Gro- tius was in the habit of studying ; and the governor, upon his return home in the evening, remarking the light in Grotius' s window, concluded that his prisoner was quite safe. Madame de Groot was not detained long in prison, and rejoined her husband soon after in Paris. There is usually a frigate in the Dutch navy bearing the name of Gro- tius' s wife, Marie van Reigersberch : history has rescued from oblivion the name of the trusty maid-servant also — it was Elsje van Houwening. I. Bommel — Inn, Hof van Guelder- land — once a fortress, was besieged in vain by the Spaniards 1599, and taken by Turenne 1672. Its fortifications were destroyed in 1629. The island of Bommel, Bommeler Waard, between the Waal and the Mouse, which here unite their waters, is defended on the E. by Fort St. Andre, and on the W. by Fort Loevestein. 2f posts S. of Bommel lies Hertogen- bosch (Bois-le-duc). (See R. 13.) rt. Thiel, a pretty town of 3500 inhab., and birthplace of General Chasse, the defender of Antwerp cita- del. 66 m. above Rotterdam lies — I. Nijmegen. R. 5, p. 71. In the height of summer, when tra- vellers are numerous, much confusion attends the arrival of a Rhenish steamer at its place of destination. It is some- times difficult to procure accommoda- tion of any kind. Those who are suc- cessful at Nijmegen have little cause for congratulation, as the inns are not good, and the charges are shamefully high. Sometimes the steam-boat does not reach Nijmegen until the gates are shut, in which case the passengers are compelled to pass the night on board. Nijmegen being a frontier town and a fortress, passports are demanded from strangers as they quit the steamer. A diligence sets out every day for Cologne after the steamer from Rotter- dam has arrived; so that passengers who do not wish to stop hero for the night may proceed without delay, by way of Cleves and Crcfeld on the 1. bank of the Rhine, a journey of about 18 hrs., and a distance of about 88 m. (See R. 35.) Tho voyage from Nijmegen to Co- logne by water, about 125 m., is de- scribed in R. 34. b. THE LEK FROM ROTTERDAM TO ARN11EM. The Steamers of the Diisseldorf Com- pany take this course -A times a-week in 84 ROUTE 11. — THE RHINE : LEK BRANCH. Sect. I. summer ; but the Lek is often so low as to preclude the passage of a steamer altogether. ft. Krimpen aim de Lek. rt. Lekker Kerk. rt. Schoonhoven, about 20 m. above Rotterdam, is famous for its salmon fisheries. One Albert Beiling, during the wars of the Hoeks and Kabel- jauws (Hooks and Codfish), defended (1425) the castle of Schoonhoven against the forces of Jacqueline of Bavaria. Being at length compelled to surrender, he was condemned by his enemies to be buried alive. He heard his sentence unmoved, and asked for no mitigation of it ; but he begged a respite of one month, to enable him to take leave of his wife and children at Gouda. At the expiration of the time he re-appeared to suffer his doom with all the fortitude of the Boman Regulus. I. Meuwpoort, about a mile from Schoonhoven, opposite to it. rt. Yreeswijk is the landing-place for passengers going to Utrecht and Am- sterdam. Coaches convey passengers, for 70 cents, to Utrecht in 1 hr., in time for the railroad trains to Amsterdam. I. Vianen, which is opposite to Vreeswijk, is said to be the Fanum Dianas of Ptolemy. It formed part of the patrimony of the patriot Count of Brederode, who fortified it for the Prince of Orange on the outbreak of the revolt of the Netherlands. Between Vianen and Kuilenburg there are sluices in the banks of the river, designed solely for laying the country under water in case of foreign invasion. If they were opened, the in- undation would at once spread as far S. as the "Waal, as far as Dort to the ~W., and to the JSoort in an opposite direc- tion. A military inundation of this kind is a mode of defence peculiar to Holland. It effectually cuts off the means of approach from an army either by land or water ; it covers both roads and canals, leaving an enemy in igno- rance of their direction and course ; and, while it is deep enough to check the march of troops or cannon, it is so interrupted by shallows and dykes, as to render its navigation by boats equally impracticable. I. Kuilenburg. Inns : Rose ; Ver- gulde Hooft. A town of 3000 inhab., formerly a place of refuge for debtors. rt. "Wijk by Duurstede, supposed to be the Batavodurum of the Romans, though the antiquities lately dug up belong only to the time of the Franks, and do not confirm the supposition. The branch of the Rhine which alone retains that name to the sea here se- parates from the Lek, and flows past Utrecht and Leiden to Katwijk, where it is now discharged into the ocean by means of sluice-gates (p. 41). The Lek was originally a canal dug by the Ro- mans to unite the Rhine and Maas ; its bed became suddenly enlarged by an inundation in 839, by which the main stream was thrown into it. (Rte. 2.) 1. Eck and "Wiel, near rt. Amerongen. Amerongen itself is situated at a little distance from the river. Lord Athlone has a seat near here. rt. Rheenen (Inn, Konig van Bo- heme, bad) is a town of 1600 inhab., on the middle branch of the Rhine. There is nothing to be seen here but an old Gothic church with a handsome tower. A large quantity of tobacco is cultivated in this district. A little out of Rheenen, on the road to Amerongen, on the left-hand side, somewhat below the road, at the entrance of a meadow, under some willow-trees, the English traveller will remark the mounds under which the bones of some hundreds of his countrymen are mouldering. In 1794 the hospital for the prisoners taken in the Duke of York's army was at Rheenen, and, the mortality being very great, this spot became the cemetery of the hospital. rt. Wageningen, 14 m. from Arn- hem (Inn, Hof van Guelderland, not good), an inconsiderable town, of about 3000 inhab., supposed to be the ad Vada of the Romans : it is connected with the Rhine by a short canal. On the opposite side of the river to "Wagen- ingen is a flat district of meadow-land, called the island of Betuwe, because isolated by the Lek and Waal ; it re- tains in its name a memorial of the ancient inhabitants of this country, the Batavi. I. Heteren. Holland. ROUTE 12. — THE IIIUiNIC: 1JSSEL BRANCH. 85 rt. Arnhem. (Route 6.) rt. 3 m. above Arnhem the IJssel (pron. Eyssel) branches off from the Rhine, and flows into the Ztrider Zee at Kampen. It is also navigated by steam. (Rte. 12.) /. Hnisscn. " Near Tollhnis the army of Louis XIV. crossed the Rhine, l(i 7 2, an exploit much vaunted by the French poets (Boileau, &c.) and histo- rians of the time, though little risk was incurred but that of drowning, as there were veiy few, if any, Dutch troops immediately on the spot to oppose the passage." — /. W. C. The river was then much reduced by the drought of summer, though not entirely fordable, and many regiments had to swim across. The Great Conde was here wounded in the wrist, and his nephew was killed by his side. rt. Pannerden. Here the Waal first branches out from the main trunk of the Rhine, which above this spot flows in one undivided stream. (See p. 81.) The voyage to Cologne is described in Rte. 34. ROUTE 12. ARNHEM TO KAMPEN, BY THE IJSSEL BRANCH OF THE RHINE, THROUGH ZU1PHEN AND DEVENTER. Steamers 3 times a-week along the IJssel, from Arnhem to Kampen. The voyage even in descending takes up 1 day. Diligences go several times a-day by Zutphcn to Deventer, in 5 hrs. The steamer ascends the Rhine about 2 m. to reach the mouth of the IJssel. This was originally a canal formed by Drusus, son-in-law of Augustus (Fossa Drusiana), to join the old IJssel with the Rhine. The pretty village of Velp (p. 71) is seen among the trees. rt. Doesburg (Inn: Heerenloge- nient), a fortified town at the conflu- ence of the old and new IJssel, 2540 inhab., was taken from the Spaniards and pillaged, 1585, by the English, under the Earl of Leicester. /. Dieren. Near this is the curious old moated house of Middaghten. rt. Zutphcn {Inns: Kcizcrskroon ; Zwaan), a strong fortress and ancient town, 10,500 inhab., at the junction of the Berckel with the IJssel. The chief Protestant Church (of St. "Walburga) is a fine Gothic building (1105) ; its tower has been rebuilt since 1600, when the original one was de- stroyed by lightning. "Within are mo- numents of the Counts of Zutphen, over one of which is hung a Gothic chan- delier of iron gilt, and a modern monu- ment to the family Van Ileckeren. There is a curious Gothic font of copper, and the bas-reliefs on the pulpit merit notice. In the church is a library of old books, many of them fastened to the shelves by chains. The Roman Catholics and the Ana- baptists have churches here. The Chimes are placed in the tower of the Weighing House : there is an- other large square tower called Droge- nass. It was on the battle-field of Warns- feld, a little to the E. of Zutphen, that the gallant Sir Philip Sidney received his death-wound, Sept. 22, 1586, after an action in which the English had sig- nally defeated the veteran Spaniards under the Marquess of Guasto . Stretched on the ground, bleeding and parched with thirst, the English hero displayed the well-known instance of humanity, in desiring that the cup of water in- tended for him should be given to the dying soldier at his side. rt. Deventer. In Rte. 8. rt. Katerveer. Coaches go hence to Zwollc (p. 73). I. Kampen. {Inn, Portheine's, called the Dom of Cologne, may be recom- mended.) This seaport on the Zuider Zee lies at the mouth of the IJssel, here crossed by a fine bridge. It has about 8000 inhab. Anciently one of the most flourishing Hanse Towns, it is now utterly without commerce. The Town-hall, a genuine Gothic building, with statues of Charlemagne, Alexander, and of the Cardinal Virtues, and 2 fine Churches, bespeak its former prosperity. Count Horn, behcadod by Alva, was buried here. A Steamer goes every day except Saturday to Amsterdam, in summer, at 86 ROUTE 1 3. — ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP. BREDA. Sect. I. f past 1, in correspondence with the last train to Eotterdam. ROUTE 13. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY BREDA, AND BY WATER. 12§ posts = 62 Eng. m. Diligences daily, in 12 hrs. Steamers daily, in 1 hrs, by Dort, Fort Batz, and the Scheldt. (See p. 81). In travelling by land 3 ferries require to be crossed, — at Rotterdam, over the Maas ; at Dort, over the Merwe ; and at Moerdijk, over the Hollands-Diep. The ferry-boats are steamers, and are very well managed. Steamers also ply daily direct from Rotterdam to Dort and Moerdijk. 2^ Dort. In Ronte 12, p. 85. I5. At Willemsdorp the borders of the Hollands-Diep are reached, an arm of the sea, rather than a river, which takes 20 min. to cross to Moerdijk. Noordhaven is sometimes chosen as the place of disembarkation : it is 3 posts from Breda. 2| Breda. Inns: H. de Flanders, very good ; Goude Leeuw, or Golden Lion; Couronne, comfortable. Breda is a fortress on the rivers Merk and Aa, whose waters, together with the surrounding marshes, render it al- most inaccessible to an enemy, but very unhealthy. The principal Protestant Church has a lofty and graceful Gothic tower, in- jured by being surmounted by a Dutch bulbous spue. "Within it is the Tomb of Count Engelbrecht II of Nassau, fa- vourite general of the Emp. Charles V., and his wife, attributed to Mich. Angelo. It resembles in its plan the monument in Westminster Abbey of Sir F. de Vere. Their effigies, formed of Italian alabaster, repose upon elaborately carved mats ', while 4 statues of Julius Caesar, Regulus, and 2 other classic heroes, in a half-kneeling posture, support on their shoulders a table of stone, on which lies the armour of the prince carved in marble. M. Angelo might have made a sketch of the design ; but the awkward pose of some of the figures, the feeble- ness of the anatomical details, the mean- ness and angularity of the drapery, and the minute finish of some of the acces- sories, prove that M. Angelo could have had no hand in the execution. There are some other monuments which are interesting memorials of the days of Spanish rule. Their ornaments are elegant, and in plataresco style : one of Count Henry of Nassau, with kneeling figures ; another, bearing the date 1536, to the memory of the Sieur de Borgni- val, chief engineer to Charles Y. Behind the high altar is an altar tomb of the Knight of Renesse and his lady. At the end of the N. aisle is a fine monu- ment to some of the Aschendaal family, with a vigorous and excellent relief of the Last Judgment. Many of these monuments have been injured by vio- lence. In the choir is a highly orna- mented brass, commemorating William of Gaellen, a Dean of the chapter ; and curious and well-executed carvings in wood, representing monks in ludicrous attitudes, intended to satirise the vices of the clergy. There is also a very fine brass font, the cover of which is raised by a crane. The old castle was built, 1350, by Count Henry of Nassau ; the modem Chateau by William, afterwards the Third of England. It is a square sur- rounded by the waters of the Merk. Here is a military academy for infantry, cavalry, artillery, and engineers, capable of accommodating 192 cadets. It is exclusively from this academy that the Dutch army is now officered. Here are good stables and an ample stud, a swimming school, and an extensive plateau, with cannon of every calibre, which supplies the means of drill ap- plicable to each branch of the sendee. It contains also a good library, a well- stocked model-room, and a small mu- seum of arms. (See Quar. Rev., No. 166, p. 441.) Breda was taken from the Spaniards, in 1590, bymeans of a singular stratagem concerted between a brave veteran cap- tain of Prince Maurice's anny, named Harauguer, and one Adrian Vanden- berg, owner of a barge which supplied the garrison with turf for fuel. On Thursday, Feb. 26, Harauguer, and 80 picked soldiers, entered the barge, and were carefully covered over vrith a cargo of turf. Though the boat had Holland. ROUTE 13. — ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER. 87 not many milos to go from the place where it was laden, it was so much im- peded hy contrary winds, and hy the frost which had covered the water with a thick coat of ice, that the third day passed heforo it arrived within ~ league of the town. To add to the perils of the crew tho vessel sprung a leak; the soldiers stood up to their knees in water ; and one of them, named Matthias licit, hegan to cough so violently that for fear he should cause their detection he en- treated his companions to run him through with his sword. Luckily they were not rigorously examined by the guard, and the sacrifice of the brave soldier was not required. It was not till midnight on the 3rd of March (5 days after they had embarked) that the sluice-gates of the citadel were opened, and the boat was dragged in through the ice by the very garrison who were so soon to suffer from its entrance. They carried off so much of the turf for their use, that the boards which covered the concealed band were nearly laid bare ; but, by another piece of good fortune, they did not inspect the cargo very minutely ; and Vandenberg, with con- siderable cleverness, contrived by his wit and jokes to turn away their atten- tion, and, lulling all suspicion, finished by making them drunk. As soon as they were asleep, Captain Harauguer and his soldiers issued forth from their miserable retreat; the sentinels were killed, and the rest of the garrison, terrified at the sudden and unexpected attack, abandoned the castle without even the precaution of breaking down the drawbridge leading from it into the town, which was entered a few days afterwards by Prince Maurice and his army. After several fruitless attempts on the part of the Spaniards to regain Breda, it was taken in 1625 by Spinola, who burnt the famous barge which had contributed to its capture by the Dutch in 1590, which had been carefully preserved by them. The surrender of Breda to Spinola has been commemo- rated by Velazquez in his finest picture, " Las Lanzas," now in the Madrid gal- lery. Span, lldbk., 752, 1st. ed. Charles II. resided at Breda during part of the time of his exile from England. About 24 m. from Breda is Bois-le-dxc (den Bosch or Hertogenboach), a for- tress and chief town of N. Brabant, with 21,000 inhab. (fun, Goude Lceuw.) The Church of St. John (1312) is ono of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in Holland. It is well preserved, and has double aisles and apsidal chapels (dato 1260-1312), an earlier chapel at tho N.W. end, and a Lady-chapel N. of the choir. The Stadhuis is surmounted by a tower containing a fine set of chimes. Half-way to Bois-le-Duc is Tilburg [Inn, Goude Leeuw), a town of 11,700 inhab., possessing extensive cloth manufactories. 2 Grootzundert, the last place in Hol- land : examination of passports here by the Dutch, and at Wcst-Wesel (custom- house) by the Belgian authorities. A desolate tract of heath forms the border- land of the 2 countries. At Hoogh- straeten, a few miles E. of "Wcst-Wesel, so called from the Roman high-way which passed through it, a handsome Church contains monuments to the noble family of La Laing, one of whom built the steeple, 364 ft. high, in 1546, and 12 painted windows. The chateau of the La Laings is now the Poor-house (Depot de la Mendicite). 1# Gooring. 1t=j Brcschat. l| Antwerp. In Rte. 22. 2. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER. Steamers daily in summer. The distance is about 80 m. The time now taken by the new iron boats be- tween Antwerp and Rotterdam is 7 hrs. ; the return passage is 2 hrs. longer, as tho tide does not serve to pass the banks, which it does in going, and therefore a circuit is obliged to be made to avoid them. The voyage is preferable to the land journey in fine weather ; but the broad estuaries divid- ing the islands which form the province of Zealand arc nearly as much agitated as the open sea by storms. After quitting Dort (R. 11) the vessel threads a narrow channel, having the appearance of an artificial canal, called Dordschc Kill, leading into the wide estuary of the Hollands-Diep, and 88 ROUTE 13. — BERGEN- OP-ZOOM. Sect. I. Volke Eak, arms of the Maas, flowing between the islands of Zealand. The places passed on the voyage from Dort are S' Gravendeel, Willemsdorp, the fortress of Willemstad, forts Buter, and Oostgenstplaatz, 2 block -houses covered with red-tiled roofs, erected by the French to defend the entrance of the Hollands-Diep against the English, Philipsland, and Stavenis. On the I. lies Tholen, and on the rt. the island of Schowen, with its port, Ziericksee, memorable for the daring exploit of the Spaniards, under Eequesens, 1575, who forded the channel called Keeten, by a passage 6 m. long, and before untried, wading for the most part up to their necks in water, and in the face of a fleet of boats manned by the Zea- landers, who annoyed the Spaniards by a deadly fire, and actually cut off their rear-guard. They thus gained posses- sion of the island, and soon after of Ziericksee. At Zijp a carriage is sta- tioned to convey passengers to or from Ziericksee [Inn, Hof van Holland), less than an hour's drive ; its square tower is conspicuous from the steamer. Passengers bound for Flushing (E. 18), Middelburg, and Goes, are set down at Jerensdam. Emerging from the narrow channel of Tholen, the steamer calls at the jetty of the town and fortress of Bergen-op-Zoom (Inn, Hof van Hol- land), one of the strongest places in Holland, considered the masterpiece in the art of fortification of Coehorn, 7500 inhab., situated in a marshy country which can easily be laid under water. Among the numerous sieges and attacks which it has endured, the most interesting to the English is the attempt by Gen. Graham to carry the place by storm, on the night of the 8th of March, 1814, which was nearly successful. Two of the 4 attacking columns suc- ceeded in establishing themselves on the ramparts, with very trifling loss. No. 1, the 1. column, attacked- be- tween the Antwerp and Waterport gates; No. 2 attacked the rt. of the New Gate ; No. 7 was destined only to draw attention by a false attack near the Steinbergen gate; No. 4, the rt. column, attacked at the entrance of the harbour, which could be forded at low water. They were ultimately repulsed, by a bold attack of the garrison, with very severe loss. — The names of the British officers who fell on this occasion may be seen in the church recorded on a monumental tablet erected by their brother officers. In the great Protest- ant Gh. is the tomb of Lord Edward Bruce, killed in a bloody duel, 1613, with Lord Sackville, to fight which they came over from England. (Guar- dian, Nos. 129, 133.) The church, which has suffered greatly, is the rem- nant of a fine building. A line of posts and branches of trees point out to the pilot the very narrow channel called de Kreek Bak, close to the edge of the extensive sandbank called Verdronken, or Drowned Land, because overwhelmed by an inroad of the sea, and thus cut off from the island of Zuid Beveland. "We enter the river Schelde abreast of Fort Batz. The de- scription of the voyage up the Schelde to Antwerp will be found in Ete. 18. Travellers going from Antwerp to Eotterdam, and wishing to visit Breda, should land at Bergen-op-Zoom, drive to Breda, and sleep there, and rejoin the steamer at Moerdijk the next day. (From Moerdijk to Dort in steamer 1~ kr., Dort to Eotterdam 1A hr.). From Antwerp to Fort Batz If hr., a delay of about ^ hr. at Fort Batz on account of custom-houses : thence to Bergen ^ hr. Bergen - op - Zoom is a bad place to land at in wet weather ; a long jetty and dyke has to be traversed before reaching the town. From Ber- gen - op - Zoom to Breda is a drive of 4 hrs. : there is an intermediate post station at Eosendaal ; but the landlord of the Hof v. Holland, who is the postmaster, will furnish a carriage and horses which easily perform the whole distance. There is much heather-land between Bergen-op-Zoom and Breda. If the traveller should not find the steamer at Moerdijk, he may cross to Willemsdorp by the steam-ferry, and proceed thence to Dort, where steamers going to Eotterdam are easily found. Belgium. ( 89 ) Sect. II. SECTION II. BELGIUM. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 18. Passports. — 19. Money. — 20. Posting. — 21. Diligences; Hired Carriages; Barriers; Roads. — 22. Railroads. — 23. Inns. — 24. General View of Belgium.- 25. Belgian Cities and Architecture. — 26. Chimes {Carillons). — 27. Works of Art ; Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens. ROUTES. ROUTE * PAGE 15. Calais to Brussels by Lille — Railway 102 Calais to Coutrai, by Bun- kirk and Ypres . . . . 110 Calais to Ostcnd or Bruges . 114 London to Antwerp by the Schelde 114 Ghent to Brussels by Alost . 118 London or Dover to Ostend . 119 Ostend to Bruges, Ghent, Ter- inonde, and Mechlin — Railway 120 Bruges to Courtrai — Rail- way. .' 136 Ghent to Antwerp — Rail- way 136 Antwerp to Turnhout, and the Belgian Pauper Co- lonies 151 23. Antwerp to Brussels by Ma- lines— -Railw ay . . . . 152 24. Brussels to Lie'ge by Waterloo and Namur. — Descent of the Meuse to Maestricht . 162 16 17 18 19 20 21 21 A. 22 22 a. ROUTE PAGE 25. Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle by Verviers, and visit to Spa — Railway 177 26. Brussels to Liege by Louvain — Railway 182 27 . Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle by Maestricht 186 28. Brussels to Namur by Hal, Braine le Comte, and Char- leroi — Railway . . . . 188 28a. Charleroi to Morialme — Railway 189 29. Namur to Luxemburg and Treves 189 30. Namur to Dinant and Givet by the Meuse 190 31 . The Ardennes, Dinant to Hans sur Lesse, St. Hubert, and Bouillon 192 32. Brussels to Mons and Valen- ciennes, on the way to Paris — Railway . . . 194 18. PASSPORTS. CUSTOM-HOUSE. The Belgian minister in London issues passports to all who may require them, gratis, at his house, 51, Portland Place, between 11 and 3. A passport may be obtained from the Belgian Consul in London (beticcen the hours of 12 and 4 only), upon payment of 5s. Except in the frontier towns, and at Brussels, the capital, passports arc now seldom required by the police in Belgium. More strictness is observed since the political events of 1848. The under-functionaries of the Belgian police, and custom-house officers, often display in their conduct instances of insolence, dila- torincss, and neglect of their duties, very annoying to the traveller, and contrasting 90. 19. money.— 20. posting. Sect. II. singularly with the invariahle politeness and punctuality of similar officers in Prussia and Austria. The search at the Belgian custom-houses, especially on the French and German frontier, is strict, and frequently vexatious. Travelling carriages are not subject to duty on entering Belgium, when they are accompanied by their owners ; when they are new, and not so accompanied, they are subject to an ad valorem duty of 7 per cent. 19. MONEY. French money is current throughout Belgium ; indeed the currency of Bel- gium has the same coins and divisions as the French. The smaller Dutch coins are also met with, and travellers should beware of confounding cents with centimes. At Brussels, even in good shops, cents are charged. A cent, being -^ of a guilder, is equal to 2 centimes. BELGIAN AND FRENCH MONEY. 1 franc = 100 centimes = 20 sous = 9^d. English. Silver coins : — * s. d. \ franc = 25 centimes . . = %\ \ English. \ ditto = 50 ditto . . . . = 4 : | 5 ditto = = 40 Gold coins : — Louis d'or = 24 fr =19 Leopold d'or, Napoleon, or 20 -franc 1 _ .. ~ . ~ piece ) FOREIGN COINS REDUCED TO FRENCH CURRENCY. fr. c. English Sovereign = 25 50 Crown = 6 25 Shilling = 1 25 Dutch William = 10 Guilders . = 21 16 Guilder = 2 15 Prussian Dollar = 3 75 Frederick d'or . . . . = 21 00 Bavarian Florin = 20 pence English = 2 15 Kron Thaler . . . . = 5 81 Austrian Florin =2 shillings English= 2 57 The Bank of Belgium issues notes of the value of 1000, 500, 100, 50, and 20 francs. The Belgian Chambers have recently passed an act for the withdrawal of all gold coin, both Belgian and foreign, from circulation. 20. POSTING. — BARRIERS AND ROADS. Two Belgian or French leagues make a post (equal to nearly 5 miles English, 'or about 1 German mile). The precise length of the lieue de poste is 3898 metres = 4263 yds. English = 2 English m. 743 yds. 1600 metres = 1 English mile. In many places the roads are measured in kilometres. A kilo- metre = 1093 yds., or 4 furlongs and 213 yds., or 5 furlongs less 7 yds. ; in round numbers § of an English mile. Posting in Belgium is arranged nearly upon the old French footing. The following tariff is extracted from the " Livre de Poste," published at Brus- sels : — The charge for each horse per post is 1 fr. 50 centimes, or 30 sous. The charge — postilion — 75 centimes, or 15 sous. Belgium. 20. POSTING. TARIFF. 91 It is usual to give at least \\ franc per post to the postilion; indeed, it is custom- ary with En glish travellers to allow liim 2 francs, or 40 sous, per post. He may, however, be' restricted to the sum iixeel by the tariff, when he lias conducted himself improperly. (Posting in France is now regulated by kilometres : the charges per kilometre are, for 2 horses at 4 sous each, 8 sous for a horse, for a third person, 3 sous. Postilion 16 sous.) To make a constant practice of giving the French and Belgian postboys 40 sous apiece appears quite unnecessary. Our countrymen who do this can hardly be aware that they are paying at the rate of 4d. a mile (English), in a country where the necessaries of life are far cheaper than in England, while at home the customary rate of payment for a postilion is only 3d. a mile. This extravagant remuneration is, besides, contrary to the express injunction of the French " Livre do Poste," which says, — " Lcs voyagcurs conscrvent done la faculte de rcstreindre le prix des guides a. 75 centimes, a titre de punition ; et ils seront invites par lcs maitres de poste, et dans l'mteret du service, a ne jamais depasscr la retribution de 1 fr. 50 centimes par poste." The posting regulations allot one horse to each person in a carriage ; but allow the traveller, at his option, cither to take the full complement of horses, at the rate of 30 sous each, or to take 2 or 3 at 30 sous, and to pay for the rest at 20 sous, without taking them. Thus a party of 4 persons in a light britzka may be drawn by 2 horses, paying 2 francs extra for the 2 persons above the number of horses ; or 3 persons may travel with 2 horses, paying 80 sous for their horses per post. Where the carriage is so light as not to require as many horses as there are pas- sengers, it is, of course, a saving of 10 sous a post for each horse to dispense with them, and it renders unnecessary the use of shafts. Tariff for Belgium, Piedmont, Savoy, and part of Switzerland ; allowing 30 sous for each Horse, and 40 sous for each Postilion, per post. Includes one Postilion at 40 sous Includes two Postilions at 40 sous per post. each per post. Posts Two Three Four Five Four Five Six Seven Eight Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. Horses. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. l •2 2 10 3 5 4 4 15 5 5 15 6 10 7 5 8 1 5 6 10 8 9 10 10 11 10 13 14 10 16 1J 6 5 8 2 10 11 17 12 10 14 7 16 5 18 2 20 4 7 10 9 15 12 14 5 15 17 5 19 10 21 15 24 if 8 15 11 7 14 16 12 17 10 20 2 22 15 25 7 28 2 10 13 16 19 20 23 26 29 32 01 11 5 14 12 18 21 7 22 10 25 17 29 5 32 12 36 n i -2 12 10 16 5 20 23 15 25 28 15 32 10 36 5 40 n 13 15 17 17 22 26 2 27 10 31 12 35 15 39 17 44 3 15 19 10 24 28 10 30 34 10 39 43 10 48 'U k 16 5 21 2 26 30 17 32 10 37 7 42 5 47 2 52 17 10 22 15 28 33 5 35 40 5 45 10 50 15 56 H 18 18 24 7 30 35 12 37 10 43 2 48 15 54 7 60 4 20 26 32 38 ! 40 46 52 58 64 The above table supposes that the full quota of horses are attached to the car- riage ; the following table is drawn up for cases in which some of the horses are dispensed with, and 20 sous paid instead. 92 21. MODES OF TRAVELLING.- — 22. RAILROADS. Sect. II. Postilions at 40 Sous a Post. . i Post. i Post. i Post. 1 Post. 2 Posts. 3 Posts. f. s. f. s. /. s. f. s. f. s. f. s. 2 persons and 2 horses at 5 francs per post . . 1 5 2 10 3 15 5 10 15 3 persons and 2 horses at 6 francs per post . . 1 10 3 4 10 6 12 18 4 persons and 2 horses at 7 francs per post . . 1 15 3 10 5 5 7 14 21 5 persons and 3 horses at 8^ francs per post . . 2 2i 4 5 6 7± 8 10 17 25 10 2 Postilions at 40 Sous each. 6 persons and 4 horses at 12 francs per post . . 3 6 9 12 24 36 In fixing the numher of horses to he attached the postmaster takes into account the nature, size, and "weight of the carriage, and the quantity of luggage ; a landau or berlin always requires 3 horses at least, generally 4 ; a chariot "will require 3, "while a britzka holding the same number of persons "will need only 2. Royal Posts. — Half a post extra is charged upon post-horses arriving at or quitting Brussels, and | of a post extra on quitting Ghent, Liege, Mons, and Namur. 1 franc is charged for greasing the "wheels. No duty is paid on tra- velling carriages in Belgium "when they are accompanied by their owners. 21. 'TRAVELLING BY DILIGENCES, OR HIRED CARRIAGES. — BARRIERS. — ROADS. Diligences are conducted nearly on the same footing as in Holland (§ 4) ; they belong to private individuals or companies. They are frequently ill-managed and uncomfortable. Hired Carriages. — Persons not travelling in their own carriages, and unwilling to resort to the diligence, may have a voiture with 2 horses at the rate of about 25 francs a-day, and 5 francs to the driver ; but they must, at the same time, pay 25 francs per diem back fare, making 50 francs per diem for carriage and horses. Barrieres. — There is usually a toll-gate every league in Belgium. The tolls are fixed at 10 centimes for a 4- wheeled carriage, and 20 centimes for each horse, including the return. The barrier is marked by a lamp-post at the road-side. It is customary to pay the tolls to the postboy instead of stopping at each, by which much time is saved. Roads. — Most of the Belgian roads are paved, which renders travelling over them very fatiguing, especially for ladies. The effect produced by them on carriage wheels is most destructive : a single day's joiuney over these ckaussees will sometimes cause them to split and start, unless they are made very stout. The postilion should be desired to drive on the unpaved ground at the side as much as possible (allez sur le chemin de terre). After rain, however, when the side of the road is a mass of mud, and in frosty weather, when the deep ruts are as hard as stone, it would be difficult for him to comply. Private carriages are now taken on the railroad. 22. RAILROADS. Belgium, from the level surface of the country, is peculiarly well suited for railroads, which can be constructed at much less cost hero than in England, and have in consequence extended their ramifications through all parts of the king- Belgium. 22. RAILROADS. 93 doin. Mechlin is the point at which the 2 main lines intersect — one travers- ing Belgium from E. to "W., the other from N. to S. Most of them have been constructed at the expense of the government of Belgium, hut with much economy. The rate of travelling is only 12 or 15 m. an hour ; hut the fares, even in the first-class carriages, are less than in England, not exceeding Id. a mile ; indeed, travelling in Belgium has hcen rendered exceedingly cheap hy the railways for those who have no carriages and very little baggage. Baggage is all weighed and charged for separately at a high rate, except such smaU packages as may go under the passenger's seat. If the traveller wants to stop at several towns in succession, it saves much time and expense of porterage to send on the baggage to the farthest point to await his arrival. The delay caused by weighing the baggage at every station, which is considerable, owing to there being only one weighing machine, is also avoided. A receipt is given for the baggage, referring to a number affixed to each article, on producing which at the point of destina- tion, the whole is safely delivered to the owner. Baggage sent on to Cologne will not be detained at the frontier of Prussia, but will await the arrival of the owner at Cologne before being searched. The charges for conveying carriages are also high, especially for short distances. For a 4-whceled carriage from Ostend to Liege 129 francs; from Antwerp to Liege 7 1 francs. It would save expense to send on a carriage under charge of a servant at once from Ostend to Liege, and vice versa. There are 3 Classes of Railway Carriages: 1. Diligences, or 1st class, roomy, and provided with stuffed cushions and glass windows. 2. Chars-a-banc. The new carriages of the 2nd class are great improvements upon the old ones : they afford ample accommodation, and contain 30 people, have cushioned benches and glass windows. The old chars-a-banc were detestable. 3. Waggons have wooden benches, and are open above and at the sides in summer, and covered in winter. The management of the railroads is better conducted now than at first, but still complaints are made of inattention and want of civility on the part of the servants. Travellers will act wisely in looking carefully to see that the change they receive in paying for their tickets is correct. Fares fixed by the Minister of Public Works in the undermentioned places, for the Removal of Private Carriages from the Railway Stations to the Interior of the Towns. Names of the Number of Horses and Postilions. Stations. 1 Horse, 2 Horses, 3 Horses, 4 Horses, 4 Horses, 1 Postilion. 1 Postilion. 1 Postilion. 1 Postilion. 2 Postilions. f. c. f. c. f. c. f. c. f. c. Brussels . . . 3 50 5 6 7 50 9 Antwerp . 3 4 5 25 6 50 8 Bruges 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 Courtrai . . . 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 Ghent .... 3 4 5 25 6 50 8 Liege .... 3 50 5 6 7 50 9 Malines . . . 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 Mons .... 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 Ostend . . . 2 50 3 50 4 50 5 50 7 The above fares comprise every expense that travellers have to pay, and post- masters or postilions have no right to exact more under any pretence whatsoever. A party travelling with their own carriage will find the expenses, including conveyances to and from the stations, very little below that of posting. 94 23. INNS. 24. GENERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. Sect. II. As the stations are placed in the suburbs of the different towns, a good deal of time must usually be allowed for going to and from the station. The Omnibuses which traverse the streets of the towns to collect passengers set out so long before the time of the starting of the train, tarry so long in the streets, and arrive often so much before the time of starting, that they increase rather than remove the evil. At the same time it must be said that it is necessary to reach the station about a quarter of an hour before the train starts, at least at the stations where there are many passengers, owing to the delay arising from weighing the luggage. The fare is ^ a franc, or 1 franc with luggage. Most of the Station-houses at the smaller stations are small and inconvenient, and without any accommodations. At Brussels, Ghent, and Bruges, however, large and handsome stations have been built. At the smaller stations there is frequently no separation in the waiting-rooms between the passengers of different classes ; and the traveller, locked in until the moment when his train arrives, must often endure the society of Belgian boors, redolent of garlic and tobacco. The moment of departure and arrival is marked by hurry, crushing, and confu- sion. Sometimes, too, a first-class passenger who has paid for his ticket is thrust into a second-class carriage, because there is no room for him elsewhere. "Whenever the train arrives at a branch rail a portion of the passengers are transferred to other carriages. Travellers, therefore, should be attentive to the notice given by the conducteur at Bruges, Ghent, Marines, and Mouscron. At Mechlin, where four lines converge, the confusion and delay from the crossing of trains, the changing of carnages, and shifting of baggage, is very great. Tra- vellers must take care, first that they are not run over, and next that they are not carried off by the wrong train in a direction opposite to that in which they intended to go. 22 A. VIGILANTES. In all the Belgian towns, and at the Railway stations, a species of Cab, called Vigilantes, may be hired, which for 1 franc, or, before 7 o'clock in the morning, for ltj fr., will convey the traveller and his baggage to any part of the town, and release him from the pestilent myrmidons and commissionaires of the inns. The tariff of charges is usually hung up in every carriage. 23. BELGIAN INNS. The average charges are, — for a bed, 1J to 2J francs. Dinner, table-d'hote, 2 to 3 francs. Dinner a. -part, 5 francs. Supper, table-d'hote, 1 franc 50 cent, to 2 francs. A bottle of Bordeaux (ordinaire) wine, 3 francs. Breakfast, with eggs and meat, 1 franc 50 cent. ; tea or coffee and bread and butter, 1 franc to 1 ^ franc ; servants 75 centimes to 1 franc each. In the principal inns of the large cities the charges are higher : at Brussels they are very dear. Prices have risen in Belgium within the last few years. 24. GENERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. In many respects the preliminary description of Holland (§ 8) will apply to Belgium ; the long connection ^between the two people having produced simi- larity in the habits of both, though, it must be confessed, there are great distinc- tions in character. The northern and eastern provinces of Belgium, in their flatness, their fertility, and the number of their canals (§ 10) and dykes (§ 9), can be geographically regarded only as a continuation of Holland. This portion of Belgium teems with population, so that in traversing it it has the appearance of one vast continuous village. The southern provinces, on the contrary, have an opposite character ; they consist, in a great degree, of a rugged district of hills covered with dense forests, which still harbour the wolf and the boar, intersected by rapid streams, and abounding in really picturesque scenery, the effect of which is increased by the frequent occurrence of old feudal castles. It is but a thinly peopled district ; and its inhabitants, called Walloons, arc a rough and hardy race. Belgium. 24. general view of Belgium. 95 The northern provinces are further distinguished from the southern hy their language. A line drawn nearly due E. from Gravelines to the Lys, and down that river to Mcnin, and from Menin again nearly due E., passing a little to the S. of Brussels and Louvain to the Meuse, between Maestricht and Liege, marks the boundary of the French and Flemish languages. The people living on the N. of this line speak Flemish, those on the S. French. Another, though some- what more undulating line, drawn from Menin, passing betwc&i Valenciennes and Mons, to the frontier near Chimay, would mark the boundary of the two French dialects spoken in Belgium ; the people on the W. of this line speaking the Pieard dialect, those on the E. of it the Walloon. The French part of Belgium is full of interest to the genealogist and herald. Among works containing interesting information may be named, Histoire de la Ville et Chateau de Hny, &c, 1G41 ; Chapeauville, Gesta Pontificum Lcodiensium ; Hcnnicourt, Miroir des Nobles de la Hesbaie, 1673-1791 ; Delvaux, Diet. Geogr. et Statis. de la Pro- vince de Liege ; Delices des Pays-Bas ; Lustre, &c, du Brabant : in Flemish. Chronyckle van Holland enz. Ncderlandsche Oudtheden ; Bymchronyk : Hol- landsche Jaarboeken. According to the census of 1849 the population in Belgium was 4,337,196 ; of which about I speak French (the Picard and Walloon dialects), the other § Flemish. In the provinces, separately, there is generally a vast excess of cither race or language. In respect to race Brabant docs not probably differ much from the other provinces, but in respect to language it is an exception to the rule, about I of its inhab. speaking French and § either Flemish or some other dialect of the Dutch language. The French Belgians are, in general, more civilised than their neighbours. Having the immense advantage of the use of a great literaiy language spoken by all travellers and foreigners, they keep nearly all the shops and hotels, and consequently have a larger intercourse with the world. In Belgium every acre maintains 3 men ; wealth, as in France, is pretty equally distributed. The class of employers, with their families, counts nearly a third of the whole inhabitants. The late kingdom of the Netherlands was built up of the fragments of other states, and "kept together rather by the pressure of surrounding Europe than by any internal principles of cohesion." The Belgians differ from the Dutch in two essential points, which are quite sufficient to make them incapable of any per- manent union : they are French in inclination and Roman Catholics in religion. Their history exhibits none of those striking traits of heroic patriotism which have distinguished the Dutch annals ; there is nothing marked in their cha- racters ; and though free from that dull plodding patience and cold calculation of gain which belong to their phlegmatic neighbours, they arc equally devoid of the high-minded courage and ceaseless perseverance which have distinguished them. Though lovers of liberty, the Belgians have been dependent on a succession of foreign masters, Burgundian, Spanish, Austrian, or French. The mania of the Crusades having possessed with especial fervour the nobles of Flanders, they were incited to make every species of sacrifice in furtherance of their favourite purpose. Lands, political powers, and privileges were parted with, on the spur of the moment, to furnish means for their expedition. Their wealthy vassals, the burghers of Bruges, Ghent, and other great towns, were thus enabled, by their riches, to purchase their independence. They forthwith formed themselves into communes or corporations, and began to exercise the right of dcliberatiiig on their own affairs; elected bailiffs (echevins) ; obtained a jurisdiction of their own, and with it a great seal ; and evinced their sense of these advantages by building a huge belfry, or a vast town-hall, as atrophy or temple of their liberties. But though the Flemish burghers gained their freedom from their feudal lords much sooner than most other nations, they threw away the boon by their petty jealousies and quarrels among one another. To xisc the words of the inost dis- tinguished living British historian, " Liberty never wore a more unamiable coun- 96 25. BELGIAN CITIES, AND THEIR ARCHITECTURE. Sect. IL tenance than among these hurghers, who ahused the strength she gave them by cruelty- and insolence." — Hallam, They have suffered from their faults; their government has been subject to perpetual changes, and their country has been the scene of war for centuries : a mere arena for combat — the Cockpit of Europe. The natural consequence of so many revolutions has been a certain debasement of the national character, evinced in the lower orders by ignorance, and a coarse- ness of manners which will be particularly apparent to every traveller. He that would travel with the full pleasure of historical associations should be well read in Froissart ere he visits Belgium ; and when he repairs to Ghent, let him not fail to carry Henry Taylor's " Philip van Artevelde " in his hand. 25. BELGIAN CITIES, AND THEIR ARCHITECTURE. " Belgium contains a multitude of interesting examples of architectural skill in the middle ages, eminently worthy of careful study, and sufficient, from the diversity of the epochs they mark and the character they bear, to illustrate fully a history of the rise and progress of Gothic architecture, and the re-birth of Italian art." — 67. Godwin jun., F.E.S. " It is in the streets of Antwerp and Brussels that the eye still rests upon the forms of architecture which appear in the pictures of the Flemish school — those fronts, richly decorated with various ornaments, and terminating in roofs, the slope of which is concealed from the eye by windows and gables still more highly ornamented ; the whole comprising a general effect, which, from its grandeur and intricacy, at once amuses and delights the spectator. In fact this rich intermix- ture of towers and battlements, and projecting windows highly sculptured, joined to the height of the houses, and the variety of ornament upon their fronts, pro- duces an effect as superior to those of the tame uniformity of a modern street, as the casque of the warrior exhibits over the slouched broad-brimmed beaver of a Quaker." — Sir Walter Scott. In England, Gothic architecture is almost confined to churches ; in the Nether- lands it is shown to be equally suited to civil edifices, and even for dwelling- houses. The Town Halls (Hotels de Ville, HaU.es, &c.) at Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, Oudenarde, Brussels, and Louvain, are especially worthy of attention : they are most perfect examples of the Gothic style ; and it may truly be asserted that nowhere else in the whole of Europe are any civic edifices found to approach in grandeur and elegance those of Belgium. Amongst the privileges granted to the towns when they first acquired communal rights none seemed to have been deemed greater, or were more speedily acted upon, than the right of building a belfry to call together the citizens, and a hall as a general meeting-place. " The domestic architecture of Belgium offers an infinite variety, and offers numerous hints for present application. Within a very small circle, in some cases even in a single city, examples may be found of the different styles of building which have prevailed at intervals, say of 50 years, from the 11th or 12th cent, to the present time. At Tournay, a most interesting old town, there are several exceedingly ancient houses ; one of an interesting character is situated near the Ch. of St. Brice. The whole is of stone and terminates in a gable. The windows, about 5 ft. high and 4 ft. wide, are each divided into 2 openings by a small column with plain leafed capital. The adjoining front is precisely similar. In the Rue des Jesuits there are some houses of the same character, but of a somewhat more advanced period. The columns and caps are nearly the same as those before mentioned, and the upper part, perhaps 50 or 60 ft. in extent, consists wholly of windows and small piers alternately. Ghent and Malines display similarly ancient houses. An early advance upon this arrangement would probably be the introduction of a transom to divide the windows into -t, and so to form a croisee. In the gable of an old house at Ghent, near the Hotel de Ville, appears a large pointed window, quite ecclesiastical in aspect, with mul- Belgium, 25. Belgian architecture. 26. chimes. 97 lions, traceried head, and label. A house near the Grand Place at Tournay affords a very perfect example of the application of pointed architecture to a street front at the beginning of the 16th cent. ; and the Hotel d'Egmont at Ghent shows another application of the same style when it was beginning to exhibit symptoms of decline ; as also, on a much more elaborate scale, does the well-known Maison des Francs Batchers in the same city. " Near the Eglise de Chateau at Tournay is a large building, now the Horse Infirmary for the artillery, which would seem to be an example at a later stage of the decline. It is constructed of red brick and stone, and presents gables, pointed-headed windows, other square windows divided by mullions, and large dormers in the roof. The mouldings, however, are Italianised ; the discharging arches, partly stone and partly brick, which occur even over the pointed-headed openings, are made into adornments, and all the ornaments which appear are of a mixed design. Later still the line of the gable became altered into a scroll, the mullions of the windows disappeared, and the Gothic panelling on the face of the building gave place to pilasters and entablatures, elaborately adorned with figures, fruit, and foliage, as may be seen in numberless examples remaining in most of the towns." — G. Godwin jun., F.B.S. The opulent burghers of these cities, once the most flourishing in Europe from their commerce and. manufactures, were little inferior to princes in power and riches ; and the municipal structures which they founded may compete with the ecclesiastical in point of taste, elegance, and magnificence ; they are in fact civic palaces, destined either for the residence of the chief magistrate, for the meeting of guilds and corporations of merchants and trades, or for assemblies of the mu- nicipal government, and sometimes of courts of justice. Belgium also possesses noble Gothic cathedrals at Mechlin, Brussels, Louvain, Liege, Tournay, and, above all, at Antwerp. The churches are usually open till noon, but as the side chapels, the choir, and the finest pictures are locked up, it is necessary, even at the open hour, to resort to the Suisse, or sexton, to see them. Notwithstanding the display of splendour' in individual buildings, it is difficult to traverse, in the present day, the deserted and inanimate streets of the great Belgian cities without a feeling of melancholy at the aspect of decay which they exhibit. They have lost their pre-eminence in commerce and manufactures ; their population has shrunk, in many instances, to one-half of its original amount ; the active arm of industry is paralysed ; and the looms which once supplied not only Europe, but Asia, with the most costly stuffs, are now supplanted by the colonies which Flanders itself sent forth into England and Italy. Within the last few years large sums have been laid out in repairing and restoring the principal buildings in Belgium. Amongst those restored may be mentioned St. Gudule and the town-hall at Brussels, the cathedral at Antwerp, St. Bavon at Ghent, and the cathedral at Tournajr. The characteristics of the cities of Belgium are given in the following verses in monkish Latin : — " Nobilibus* Bruxella viris, Antverpiaf minimis, GandavumJ laqueis, formosis Burga§ puellis, Lovanium|| doctis, gaudet MeckliniaH stultis." 26. chimes (carillons) and clocks. Chimes, or cariDons, were invented in the Low Countries ; they have certainly been brought to the greatest perfection here, and are still heard in every town. * Brussels was the seat of the Court, and therefore the residence of the nobility, f Antwerp was, perhaps, at one time the wealthiest city in Europe. % The magistrates of Ghent were compelled to wear a halter round their necks by Charles V. 6 Bruges still retains its reputation for pretty skirls II The University of Louvain, in former days, rendered it the resort of the learned. ^[ The joke about the wise men of Mechlin is explained in the description of that town. [N. G.] F 98 27. WORKS OF ART IN THE LOW COUNTRIES. Sect. II. They are of two kinds ; the one attached to a cylinder like the "barrel of an organ, which always repeats the same tunes, and is moved by machinery ; the other of a superior kind, played by a musician, with a set of keys. In all the great towns there are amateurs or a salaried professor, usually the organist of a church, who perform with great skill upon this gigantic instrument, placed high up in the church steeple. So fond are the Dutch and Belgians of this kind of music, that in some places the chimes appear scarcely to be at rest for ten minutes, either by day or night. The tunes are usually changed every year. Chimes were in ex- istence at Bruges in 1300 — thus the claim of the town of Alost to the invention, a.d. 1487, is disposed of. The public clocks in Belgium strike the hour half an hour beforehand : thus, at half-past 11 the clock strikes 12. 27. WORKS OF ART IN THE LOW COUNTRIES.* — THE SCHOOLS OF VAN EYCK AND RUBENS. It is not in architecture alone that the artists of Belgium have attained an eminent degree of perfection : this country has had the rare distinction, at two distinct periods, of producing two different Schools of Painting ; the founders of which, in both instances, equalled and even surpassed their contemporaries throughout the whole of Europe in the excellence of their works. The founders of the two schools of painting were Yan Eyck and Bubens. The numerous works produced by them and their scholars, still existing in Belgium, and nowhere else to be found in equal perfection, form another great attraction of a journey through this country, and will be highly appreciated by every traveller of taste. The brothers Hubert and John Yan Eyck, the founders of the early school, are believed to have nourished between 1370 and 1445. The painters were enrolled at Bruges as early as 1358 into a guild, which enjoyed the same privileges as any, other corporation, and attained the highest reputation under Philip the Good, whose court at Bruges was resorted to by men of learning and science, as well as artists of the first eminence in Europe, in whose society he took great delight. It was in consequence of this patronage that the brothers Hubert and John Yan Eyck (the latter sometimes called John of Bruges) settled there, and have left behind them so many proofs of then skill as painters, some of which still remain at Bruges. In the days of the Yan Eycks the cor- poration consisted of more than 300 painters, who were enrolled on the books, and formed the most celebrated school of art of the time. Yan Eyck, though not, as is sometimes stated, the original inventor of oil painting, may, at any rate, be justly termed the father of the art, as he introduced some improvement, either in the material or the mode of mixing and applying the colours, which produced a new effect, and was immediately brought into general use. Although oil painting had been previously practised in Italy, Giotto having mixed oil with his colours nearly 200 years before the time of Yan Eyck, we find that an Italian artist, Antonello of Messina, made a journey to Flanders on purpose to learn this new method ; and it is also recorded that Andrea del Castegna, to whom he imparted it, murdered a brother artist through whom the secret had been conveyed, in order to prevent the knowledge extending further. The depth and brightness of Yan Eyck's colours, which, if they can be equalled, are certainly not to be smpassed in the present day, and their perfect preservation, are truly a source of wonder and admiration, and prove with what rapid strides these artists had arrived at entire perfection in one very important | department of painting. The works of the brothers Yan Eyck are rare, and scarcely, for this reason. I perhaps, appreciated as they deserve in England. Y\ T ith them must be associated I Hans Hemling- (or Mending), another artist of the same school, whose name cvcn\ * See Kugler's Handbook of Painting; German and Dutch Schools. Belgium. 27. VAN EYCK AND RUBENS. 99 is hardty known except to a very few among us. His masterpieces exist at Bruges in the hospital of St. John and in the Academy : no traveller should omit to see them. If ho have any love for art, or any pretension to taste, he will not fail to admire the exquisite delicacy and feeling which they display, their bril- liancy of colouring, and purity of tone. In contemplating the works of the early Flemish school, it must he home in mind that the artists who attained to such excellence at so early a period had none of the classic works of antiquity to guide them, no great masters to imitate and study from : the path they struck out was entirely original ; they had no models hut nature, and such nature as was before them. Hence it happens that their works exhibit a stiffness and formality, and a mcagrcness of outline, which arc unpleasing to the eye, combined with a want of refinement which is often repugnant to good taste. Still these defects ar,e more than coTinterbalanced by truth and force of expression, and not unfrequently by an elevation of sentiment in the representation of sacred subjects. The progress of the Flemish School may be traced, in an uninterrupted course, through the works of Qucntin Matsys, Frans Floris, dc Vos, the Brueghels, and a number of artists little known in England, down to Otto Vennius and Rubens. School of Rubens. — The ruling spirits of the second epoch of Flemish art were Rubens and his distinguished pupil Vandyke. And here we shall again avail ourselves of the excellent observations of Sir Joshua Reynolds, being fully con- vinced of how great value they will prove to the young traveller. They will induce him not to rest satisfied with the name of a painter and the subject of a picture ; they will point out to him the beauties, the reason why such works are esteemed, and induce him to examine for himself, thus enabling him to form his taste, and to carry with him a perception of excellence by which he may exercise a critical judgment of painting in general. Character of Eubens. — " The works of men of genius alone, where great faults are united with great beauties, afford proper matter for criticism. Genius is always eccentric, bold, and daring ; which, at the same time that it commands attention, is sure to provoke criticism. It is the regular, cold, and timid com- poser who escapes unseen and deserves no praise. "The elevated situation on which Rubens stands in the esteem of the world is alone a sufficient reason for some examination of his pretensions. His fame is extended over a great part of the Continent without a rival ; and it may be justly said that he has enriched his country, not in a figurative sense alone, by the great examples of art which he left, but by what some wotdd think a more solid advantage, — the wealth arising from the concourse of strangers whom his works continually invite to Antwerp. To extend his glory still further, he gives to Paris one of its most striking features, the Luxemburg Gallery ; and if to these we add the many towns, churches, and private cabinets where a single picture of Rubens confers eminence, we cannot hesitate to place him in the first rank of illustrious painters. Though I still entertain the same general opinion both with regard to his excellences and defects, yet, having now seen his greatest compo- sitions, where ho has more means of displaying those parts of his art in which he particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only in large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. They really increase in proportion to the size of the canvas on which they are to he displayed. His superiority is not seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached parts of his greater works, which are seldom eminently beautiful. It docs not lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, but in the general effect, — in the genius which pervades and illuminates the whole. "The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on genius, — to attract attention and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. It is owing to this fascinating power that the performances of those painters with which he is surrounded, though 'ihey have, perhaps, fewer defects, vet appear f2 100 27. CHARACTER OF RUBENS. Sect. II. spiritless, tame, and insipid ; such as the altar-pieces of Crayer, Schut, Segers, Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whose hands, and indeed all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; and it is evident that everything they did was the effect of great labour and pains. The productions of Eubens, on the contrary, seem to flow with a free- dom and prodigality, as if they cost him nothing ; and to the general animation of the composition there is always a correspondent spirit in the execution of the work. The striking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each other ; the flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with which every object is touched, — all contribute to awaken and keep alive the attention of the spectator ; awaken in him, in some measure, correspondent sensa- tions, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the painter was carried away. To this we may add the complete uniformity in all the parts of the work, so that the whole seems to be conducted and grow out of one mind everything is of a piece and fits its place. Even his taste of chawing and of form appears to correspond better with his colouring and composition than if he had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply considered, might have been better. It is here, as in personal attractions, there is frequently found a certain agreement and correspondence in the whole together, which is often more captivating than mere regular beauty. " Eubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is necessary for every artist to assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in some measure to throw aside the fetters of authority ; to consider the rides as subject to his control, and not himself subject to the rules ; to risk and to dare extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensa- tions, and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that originality of manner by which he may be truly said to have extended the limits of the art. After Eubens had made up his manner, he never looked out of himself for assistance : there is, consequently, very little in his works that appears to be taken from other masters. If he has borrowed anything, he has had the address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not discoverable. " Besides the excellency of Eubens in these general powers, he possessed the true art of imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter's eye ; he saw at once the predominant feature by which every object is known and distin- guished ; and as soon as seen, it was executed with a facility that is astonishing : and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely examines a picture, a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt by those who are not painters I know not : to them certainly it is not enough that objects be truly represented ; they must likewise be represented with grace, which means here that the work is done with facility and without effort. Eubens was, perhaps, the greatest master in the mechanical part of the art, the best workman with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil. " This power, which Eubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to represent whatever he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, particularly lions and horses, are so admirable, that it may be said they were never properly represented but by him. His portraits rank with the best works of the painters who have made that branch of the art the sole business of their lives ; and of these he has left a great variety of specimens. The same may be said of his landscapes ; and though Claude Lorraine finished more minutely, a s becomes a professor in any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness and facility in the landscapes of Eubens, that a painter would as soon wish to be the author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist whatever. " The pictures of Eubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels him- self in nowise disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The criticisms which are made on him are, indeed, often unreasonable. His style ought nol Belgium. 27. character of rubens. 101 more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of Michael Angelo, than Ovid should be censured because he is not like Virgil. " However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellences which would have perfectly united with his style. Among those we may reckon beauty in his female characters ; sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it ; they are healthy and comely women, but seldom, if ever, possess any degree of ele- gance : the same may be said of his young men and children. His old men have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer ; but he never pos- sessed a poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest characters in the Christian or the fabulous world, instead of something above humanity, which might fill the idea which is conceived of such beings, the spec- tator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with every day. " The incorrectness of Rubens, in regard to his outline, oftcner proceeds from haste and carelessness than from inability : there are in his great works, to which he seems to have paid more particular attention, naked figures as eminent for their drawing as for their colouring. He appears to have entertained a great abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the old German and Flemish painters ; to avoid which, he kept his outline large and flowing : this, earned to an extreme, produced that heaviness which is so frequently found in his figures. Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings of his drapery, especially that of his women ; it is scarcely ever cast with any choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Rubens arc, in this respect, in opposite extremes : one discovers too much art in the disposition of drapery, and the other too little. Rubens's drapery, besides, is not properly historical ; the quality of the stuff of which it is composed is too accurately distinguished, resembling the manner of Paul Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in Rubens than it would be in many other painters, as it partly contributes to that richness which is the peculiar character of his style, which we do not pretend to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind. " The difference of the manner of Rubens from that of any other painter before him is in nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is totally different from that of Titian, Correggio, or any of the great colourists. The effect of his pictures may be not improperly compared to clusters of flowers : all his colours appear as clear and as beautiful ; at the same time he has avoided that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this respect resembling Barocci more than any other painter. "What was said of an ancient painter may be applied to those two artists, — that their figures look as if they fed upon roses. " It would be a curious and a profitable study for a painter to examine the difference, and the cause of that difference, of effect in the works of Correggio and Rubens, both excellent in different ways. The difference, probably, would be given according to the different habits of the connoisseur : those who had received their first impressions from the works of Rubens would censure Cor- reggio as heavy ; and the admirers of Correggio would say Rubens wanted solidity of effect. There is lightness, airiness, and facility in Rubens, his advo- cates will iirge, and comparatively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose admirers will complain of Rubens's manner being careless and unfinished, whilst the works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of delicacy ; and what may be advanced in favour of Correggio' s breadth of light will, by his censurers, be called affected and pedantic. It must be observed that we are speaking solely of the manner, the effect of the picture ; and we may conclude, according to the custom in pastoral poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a garland, without attributing superiority to either. " To conclude, — I will venture to repeat, in favour of Rubens, what I have before said in regard to the Dutch school (§ 14), — that those who cannot see the extraordinary merit of this great painter, either have a narrow conception of 102 ROUTE 15. — CALAIS TO BRUSSELS. Sect. II. the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation of approving nothing but what comes from the Italian school." — Sir Joshua Reynolds. Belgium possesses at the present day a School of Living Painters, whose works have high claims to attention, and may be seen at the yearly exhibitions at Ghent, Antwerp, Brussels, as well as in the palaces, museums, and churches of the principal towns. The historical pictures of Wappers, de Keyzer, Biefve, Maes, Gallait, Brakelaer, the animals of Verboekhoven, the woody landscapes of Hellemans, are worthy of being placed by the side of the best productions of any existing school. ROUTES THROUGH BELGIUM. EQUTE 15. CALAIS TO BRUSSELS BY LILLE. — RAIL- WAY. Many persons, especially in the winter season, prefer the shortest sea-voyage between England and the continent, on which account the following route is given here. Besides which, Calais is now connected by railway with Brus- sels and all the principal towns of Belgium. Calais. — Inn ; H. Dessin ; good. The bedroom in which the author of the "Sentimental Journey" slept is still marked Sterne's Boom ; and that occupied by Sir Walter Scott is also ticketed with his respected name. — Quillac's Hotel ; good. — Hotel Meurice (no connection with the house of the same name at Paris) ; tolerably clean and good. The preference usually given to Boulogne has diminished the custom of the hotel-keepers, and they have sought to indemnify themselves by an increase of prices. Duty on Carriages. — Every carriage taken into France, unaccompanied by a certificate of its being of French manufacture, is subject to a deposit of a third of its value ; if the carriage is re-exported within 3 years, f of the deposit is repaid. This repayment may be obtained at any of the frontier cus- tom-houses. If the carriage is not new, and is laden with luggage, and accompanied by the owner, and is to be taken out of the country within 6 days, it is exempted from this deposit of a third of its value. This remis- sion, however, can only be obtained on condition that some respectable French householder will guarantee that the carriage shall quit France within the 6 days specified. The landlord of the inn at which the traveller puts up in Calais will effect this arrangement for him ; but as he subjects himself to a penalty of a very large amount in case the above condition is not com- plied with, he requires the traveller to sign an undertaking to indemnify and hold him harmless in case of failure. An order to procure this remission of duty, issued by the French custom- house, and called " acquit a caution" costs 5 fr., and must be delivered up on passing the French frontier. In going from Calais to Brussels by railway this must be done either at Lille or Valen- ciennes. 10 francs is the common charge for landing or shipping a 4- wheeled carriage. 3 francs a head is the regulation charge when passengers are landed in a boat. Calais has 12,508 inhab. ; % is a fortress of the 2nd class, situated in a barren and unpicturesque district, with sandhills raised by the wind and the sea on the one side, and morasses on the other, contributing considerably to its military strength, but by no means to the beauty of its position. "Within the last few years it has been re-for- tified, and the strength of its works greatly increased, especially to the sea- ward. An English traveller of the time of James I. described it as "a beggarly, extorting town ; monstrous dear and sluttish." In the opinion of many this description holds good down to the present time. The harbour, lately improved and lengthened by 282 yards since 1830, is not so deep as that Belgium. ROUTE 15. CALAIS. 103 of Boulogne. Passengers must some- times land in boats, and wait for their baggage until the steamer can enter. Except to an Englishman Betting his foot for the first time on the Continent, to whom everything is novel, Calais, has little that is remarkable to show. After an hour or two it becomes tire- some, and a traveller will do well to quit it as soon as he lias cleared his baggage from the custom-house, and procured the signature of the police to his passport, which, if he he pressed for time, will he done almost at any hour of the day or night, so as not to delay his departure. It is necessary to he aware of this, as the commissionaires of the hotels will sometimes endeavour to detain a stranger, under pretence of not being able to get his passport signed. The owner of the passport must repair to the police-office himself to have it vise. Travellers landing at a French port, and not intending to go to Paris, hut merely passing through the country, as on the route to Ostend or Brussels, are not compelled to exchange their pass- port for a passe provisoirc, hut merely require the vise of the authorities at Calais to allow them to proceed on their journey. Persons unprovided with a passport may procure one from the British Consul for 4s. 6d. The Pier of Calais is an agreeahlc promenade, nearly ~ m. long. It is decorated with a pillar, raised to com- memorate the return of Louis XVIII. to France, which originally bore this inscription :— " Le 24 Avril, 1814, S. M. Louis XVIII. debarqua vis-a-vis dc cctte colonne, ct fut enfin rendu a l' amour dee Francais ; pour enperpetucr le souvenir la villc de Calais a eleve ce monument." " As an additional means of perpetuating this remembrance, a brazen plate had been let into the pavement upon the precise spot where his foot first touched the soil. It was the left; and an English traveller noticed it in his journal as a sinistrous omen, that when Louis le Desire, after his exile, stepped on France, he did not put the right foot foremost." — Quart. Rev. At the last revolution but one, viz. that of July, 1830, both inscription and footmark were obliterated, and the pillar now stands u monument merely of the mutability of French opinions and dynasties. The principal gate leading from the sea-side into the town is that figured by Hogarth in his well-known picture. It was built by Cardinal Richelieu, 1 635. No one needs to be reminded of the interesting incident:; of the siege of Calais by Edward III., which lasted 11 months, and of the heroic devotion of Eustace de St. Pierre and his 5 companions. Few, however, are aware that the heroes of Calais not only went unrewarded by their own king and countrymen, but were compelled to beg their bread in misery through France. Calais remained in the hands of the English more than 200 years, from 1347 to 1558, when it was taken by the Duke de Guise. It was the last relic of the Gallic dominions of the Plantagenets, which, at one time, com- prehended the half of France. Calais was dear to the English as the prize of tli3 valour of their forefathers, rather than from any real value it possessd. The English traveller should look at the Hotel de Guise, originally the guild- hall of the mayor and aldermen of the " Staple of Wool," established here by Edward III.', 1363. It has many vestiges of English Tudor architecture. Henry VIII. used to lodge in it. In the great Market Place stands the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). In it arc situated the Police Offices. In front of it arc placed busts of St. Pierre ; of the Due de Guise, surnamed le Bala- fre, who conquered the town from the English ; and of the Cardinal dc Riche- lieu, "who built the citadel on the "W. of the town ; above it rises a belfry, containing the chimes. In the same sqiiarc is a tower, which serves as a landmark by day and a lighthouse by night, to point out to sailors the en- trance of the harbour. The principal Church was built at the time when the English were masters of Calais. It is a tine church, in the early Gothic style ; a modern circular chapel has been thrown out behind the choir. It is surmounted by a stately tower and short steeple, which merit notice, 104 ROUTE 15. — CALAIS TO LILLE. Sect. II. Lady Hamilton (Nelson's Emma) is buried in the public cemetery outside the town, on the road to Boulogne ; she died here in great misery. The walls round the town and the pier are admirable promenades, and com- mand a distinct view of the white cliffs of England— a tantalizing sight to the English exiles, fugitives from creditors or compelled from other causes to leave their homes; a numerous class both here and at Boulogne. There are many of our countrymen besides, who reside merely for the purpose of economising ; so that the place is half Anglicised, and our language is generally spoken. The number of English residents in and about Calais amounted, before the French revolution of 1848, to nearly 5000. There is an English chapel, Bue des Pretres; service on Sundays, 11 a .m. and 3 p.m. There is a small theatre here. Calais is one of those places where the fraternity of Couriers have a station. Travellers should be cautioned not to engage one unless the landlord of an hotel, or some other respectable and responsible person, give him a character derived from personal knowledge ; as many of these couriers remain at Calais only because some previous act of mis- conduct prevents them showing their faces on the opposite side of the Channel. The inn-yards are generally well stocked with carriages to be let or sold; they are mostly old and rickety vehicles, and the hire demanded for them nearly equals that for which an excellent car- riage may be obtained in London. Steamboats go twice every day to Dover, varying their departure to suit the time of high water. The new Eng- lish steamers usually make the voyage in about 2 hours. Steamers go direct to London, several times a week, in 10^ or 12 hours. Calais to Brussels. In going from Calais to Brussels, the traveller, on leaving Lille, may proceed by railway to Brussels, either (a) by Douai, Valenciennes, Mons, and Braine le Comte, 162kilom. = 101| m. ; or (b) by Courtrai, Ghent, and Mechlin, 150 kilom. = 93'| m. ; or (c) by Tournay, Ath, and Braine le Comte, 134 kilom. = 84 m. Calais to Lille, 104 kilom. = 65 m. The station is at the end of the pier, close to the gate. 2-5 St. Pierre Stat. 10*9 Ardres Stat., a small fortress on the canal named after it. Between Ardres and Guisnes, a little to the W. of the road, took place, in 1520, the meeting between Henry VIII. and Francis I. The spot was called the Field of the Cloth of Gold, from the cloth of gold with which the tents and pa- vilions of the monarchs and their suites, consisting of 5696 persons, with 4325 horses, were covered. 7 • 6 Audruicq Stat. 11-5 WattenStat. 8*7 St. Omer Stat. — Inns: L'An- cienne Poste ; Grande Ste. Catherine. A 3rd-rate fortress, whose strength arises more from the marshes which sur- round it, and the ease with which three- fourths of its circuit can be flooded by the river Aa, than from its fortifications. It is a dull place, with 20,000 inhab. Two ecclesiastical buildings are worthy of notice. The Cathedral, at the upper end of the Bue St. Bertin, is a fine building, showing the transition from the round to the pointed style. The E. end is a good example of a polygonal termina- tion, with projecting chapels. The in- terior is good. The small Lady Chapel has been recently decorated. At the opposite end of the same street stand the scanty remains of the famous Abbey Church of St. Bertin, once the noblest Gothic monument of French Flanders. Its destruction has been per- petrated since 1830. At the outbreak of the last revolution but two (1792) the monastery was suppressed : the Conven- tion spared it ; and though, under the Directory, it was sold for the materials, unroofed, and stripped of its woodwork and metal, yet its walls remained com- paratively uninjmed, until the magis- trates, a few years ago, pulled it down in order to give some unemployed work- men something to do. The fragment remaining consists of a stately tower, built 1431-1461, displaying the orna- Belgium. 15. — ST. omer. lillp:. 105 merits of florid Gothic in the mutilated panelling on its walls, and bits of tra- cery in its windows ; a small portion of the nave remains attached to it. The tower has been propped up by an ugly, ill-contrived buttress of masonry. The town is well seen from the top, but there is nothing else of interest in the view. Within the walls of the Abbey of St. Bertin the feeble Childeric III., the last of the rots fcrineans of the Merovingian race, passed the last 4 years of his life, and died in 754. Here, also, Becket sought refuge when a fugitive from England. A seminary for English and Irish Catholics exists here : it succeeded the celebrated Jesuits' College, founded in 1596, by Father Parsons, for English refugee priests. Many of the intriguers against Queen Elizabeth, and of the con- spirators in the Gunpowder Plot, were broxight up here. Daniel O'Connell was educated here for the priesthood. At present there are only 15 or 20 students. About 400 English reside here. English Chapel, Rue du Bon Pasteur : Sunday, 11 and 3. 10-3 Eblinghem Stat. 10 Hazebrouck Stat. Here the branch from Dunkirk comes in, and a railway is to be carried hence through Bcthune to Tampoux, a subiub of Arras (54 kilom.). 6 • 3 Strazcele Stat. 8 • 6 Bailleul Stat. — Inn : Faucon. 1 • 9 Steenwerck Stat. 9 • 5 Armentieres Stat. 7 • 1 Perenchies Stat. 9-3 Lille (Flem. Rijssel) Stat. — Tans : H. de 1' Europe ; good, but very dear— de Bellevue — du Commerce, b. This city, of 63,693 inhab., is im- portant both as a fortress of the first order for its strength, forming the cen- tral point of the defence of France on her northern frontier, and as a populous and industrious seat of manufacture, ranking seventh among the cities of France. It is chef-lieu of the Dept. du Nord, and was formerly capital of French Flanders. The streams of the Haute and Basse Deide traverse the town, till- ing its moats and turning the wheels of its mills ; and they are connected by a canal, by means of which the country for 1^ m. around the walls can be laid under water. There arc no fine public buildings proportioned to the size and wealth of the city ; its monuments have been levelled by bomb-shells, and its objects of interest for the passing traveller, unless he be a military man, are few, as may be judged of by the following enumeration : — Its Citadel is considered a masterpiece of the skill of Vauban, who was go- vernor of it for many years. It is a regular pentagon, furnished with all the accessories which engineering skill can suggest, especially since the siege of 1792, and so strong, because commanded by no point, and capable of isolation by breaking the canal dykes, and filling its wide moats, that it is deemed impreg- nable. A great deal of misery, how- ever, and enormous destruction of pro- perty and injury to agriculture, would follow an inundation. The citadel is separated from the town by the Espla- nade, a wide drilling-ground, which serves also as a public walk, being planted with trees and traversed by the canal. Lille was captured from the Spaniards by Louis XIV. in 1667. At different periods, and under different masters, it has stood seven distinct sieges ; the one most memorable for an Englishman was that by the allied armies of Marlborough and Eugene, in 1708, of three months' duration, during which the war was not merely waged above ground, but the most bloody combats were fought below, the surface between the miners of the opposite armies, each endeavouring to sap and undermine the galleries of his opponent. Boufncrs, the French com- mander, after a masterly defence, was compelled to capitulate, but upon the most honourable terms. The Hotel de Ville was anciently the palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. It was built by Jean Sans-Pexir, 1430, and inhabited by the Empr. Charles V. It is a quaint rather than a handsome edi- fice, in the late Gothic style, but it has a prettily groined staircase in one of its tourellcs, and a chapel. One division of the building, appropriated to a school of art, contains a most interesting and valuable collection of drawings by old f3 106 ROUTE 15. — LILLE TO BRUSSELS. Sect. II. masters, including 44 by Raphael, others by Masaccio, Fra Bartolomeo, and a few (architectural) by Mich. Angelo, well worthy the inspection of all who take an interest in art. They were left to the city by Chevr. Wicar. Though not publicly shown except on Sunday, the Custode will admit artists and stran- gers of respectability at other times. The town also possesses a Muse'e, where, among a number of bad pictures, is one by Rubens, St. Catherine rescued from the Wheel of Martyrdom, painted for a church in the town. St. Cecilia and St. Francis are by Arnold de Vuez (a native artist of considerable merit, born 1642) ; and there is a series of curious old portraits of the Dukes of Burgundy and Counts of Flanders. The principal Church (St. Maurice) is in the Gothic style of the 16th cent, resting on slender piers, but is not very remarkable. The huge storehouses for corn, at the extremity of the Rue Royale, a street nearly a mile long, deserve notice. There are some very handsome shops in the Rue Esquirmoise. The tall chimneys of numerous mills, even within the walls, announce the active industry which is working here, and show the unusual combination of a fortress and manufacturing town ; while the country around, and indeed a large part of the Departement du Nord, is like a hive in population and activity, not unworthy of being compared with parts .of Lancashire and the West Riding. The chief manufacture is that of flax (which is cultivated in the vicinity), and is spun into ordinary thread, and twisted to form the kind called Lille thread, by old-fashioned machines moved by the hand ; besides which much linen is woven here. In the spinning of cot- ton Lille is a formidable rival of the English. The making of tulles and cotton lace has fallen off. The extrac- tion of oils from colza and the seeds of rape, poppies, linseed, &c, and the manufacture of sugar from beetroot, are very important, having given a great impulse to agriculture, as well as em- ploying many hands and hundreds of windmills. Lille to Brussels (a), l62kilom. — lOlj Eng. m. 12 Seclin Stat. 8 Carvin Stat. 6 Leforest Stat. Douai {Inns : H. de Flandres — du Commerce) is a town of 17,501 inhab., surrounded by old fortifications, seated on the Scarpe, defended by a detached fort about l^m. distant on the 1. bank. It is the least thriving place in the Dept. du Nord, and appears to be falling off in population ; and though it covers more ground than Lille, does not contain half as many inhab. Like the Flemish towns, it has a picturesque Beffroi in its market-place, rising above the Gothic Hotel de Ville, built at the end of the 15th cent. It possesses a library of 30,000 vols., a collection of pictures, and contains one of the 3 royal cannon foun- dries in France. The college or seminary of Douai, founded in 1569 by an Englishman, Cardinal Allen, has educated Roman Catholic priests for England and Ireland almost continuously from that time. O'Connell studied here. There is a con- siderable trade in flax here. Every year, in the early part of July, a curious procession parades the streets of Douai, consisting of a giant of osier, who is called Geant Gayant, dressed in armoxu - , 30 ft. high, attended by his wife and family, of proportionate size ; the giant doll is moved by 8 men enclosed within it. Montigny Stat. Sormain Stat. Wallers Stat. Raismes Stat. Valenciennes Stat. Valenciennes {Inns : La Poste ; H. des Princes, very good, comfortable, and newly furnished — J. M. ; Le Canard ; La Biche ; La Cour de France), a for- tress of the second class, with a strong citadel constructed by Vauban, is a dark and ill-built town, lying on the Schelde, and has a population of 22,000 souls. In 1793 it was taken by the Allies, under the Duke of York and General Abercromby, after a siege of 84 days and a severe bombardment, which de- stroyed a part of the town: it was Belgium. ROUTE 15. — LILLE TO BRUSSELS. 107 yielded bark next year. In the grand square, or Place d' Amies, are situated the Hotel de Ville, a fine building, half Gothic half Italian in style, built 1612, and containing 3 pictures by Rubens (?), brought from the Abbey of St. Amand ; the Bcffroi, 170 ft. high, built 1287, fell 1 8 1-3, and caused a serious loss of life ; the Theatre. The Church of St. Gery is the principal one. The celebrated Va- lenciennes lace is manufactured here, and a considerable quantity of fine cambric. This is the birthplace of Watteau, the painter ; of Froissart, the historian ; and of the minister D' Ar- genson. On entering France passports must be delivered up here, and on quitting the country they are strictly examined by the police. The country around Valenciennes offers no picturesque beauty ; the rivers are sluggish, and have flat, uninterest- ing banks. For the railway hence to Brussels, see Etc. 32. Lille to Brussels (b), 150 kilom. = 93| Eng. m. 9 Eoubaix Stat. This industrious town, of 24,000 inhab., has considerable cotton manufactories. Near it the English, under the Duke of York, met with a severe defeat from the French under Pichegru, May 18, 1794, losing 1000 killed, 2000 prisoners, and 60 cannon. 3 Tourcoing Stat. This town, with 20,000 inhab., is famed for its manufac- ture of table linen. 5 Mouscron Stat. Here is the Bel- gian custom-house, and the junction of the railway from Tournay. 12 Courtrav (see Rte. 16). 6 Haerlebeke Stat. 9 Waereghem Stat. 4 m. N.W. of this is the village of Roosbecke, near which Philip van Artevelde, the brewer of Ghent, was defeated, in 1382, by the French, and, with 20,000 of his country- men, perished in the battle. — Sec Tay- lor's Philip van Artevelde. 5 Olsene Stat. On Sun., Mon., & Fri. 7 Deynze Stat. This town (4000 in- hab.) is situated on tbe 1. bank of the Lys. On the opposite bank, between the rail- road and the river, is Peteghcm. The old castle here was the residence of the French kings of the second race. A carnage may be hired at Deynze to \Omlenarde (Flem. Audenaerde). — Inns: Castelrij ; Lion d' Or ; 1 2 m. from the railway. It is a town of 5670 inhab., on the Schelde, containing one of the handsomest Town Halls in the Nether- lands, though small in size, built 1525- 30, in the flamboyant Gothic style. In front runs an arcade of great elegance, supporting a balcony, above which rises a tower not unlike that of Brussels, but smaller. The entrance to the Council chamber is a beautiful specimen of wood carving in the style of the Renaissance, executed 1530, by Paul van dcr Schel- den. The Ch. of St. Walburga is also handsome, possesses an Assumption by Crayer, and the tomb of Claude Jalon : N. Dame de Pamele is of elegant Gothic (date 1239), and contains 2 old monu- ments. The tower called het Saecksen, and the bridge of the Porte d'Eyne, are very ancient structures. This is the birthplace of MargaretDuchess of Parma, governess of the Low Countries under Philip II., and natural daughter of Charles V., by Margaret van Geest, a lady of this place. The battle of Oude- narde, fought under its walls in 1708, was gained over the French by the English, in a great measure through the personal prowess and exertions of Marl- borough.] 5 Nazareth Stat. 12 Ghent Stat. Hence to Mechlin, sec Rte. 21 • and for the Railway from Mechlin to Brussels, see Rte. 23. Lille to Brussels (c), 134 kilom. = m. 84 Eng. 9 Roubaix Stat. 3 Tourcoing Stat. \ Sec previous f Rte. (2). 5 Mouscron Stat. Travellers from Lille to Tournay, and vice versa, here change carriages. Ncchin Stat. Templeuvc Stat. Tournay Stat. (Flem. Doornik). 7nns;H. de l'lmperatrico, clean; Singe d'Or, good. A fortified town of 33,000 inhab., on the Schelde, whose banks are faced with masonry, so as to contract the river into a navigable channel, and 108 ROUTE 15. — LILLE TO BRUSSELS. TOURNAY. Sect. II. form at the same time handsome Quais on each side. It is a flourishing and increasing town, a place of great manu- facturing industry, stockings and carpets heing the articles chiefly made here. The carpets, commonly called Brussels, come in fact from Tournay ; the art of weaving them was brought hither, ac- cording to tradition, from the East by Flemings, who served in the Crusades, and learned it from the Saracens. The principal manufactory (called la manu- facture royale), though fallen off, still occupies 90 looms and about 2400 per- sons, and is worth the attention of strangers, Tournay is supposed to be the Civitas Kerviorum mentioned by Ceesar in the Commentaries, Immense sums have been expended on the fortifications since the peace, and a new citadel constructed. It was considered one of the strongest fortresses on the outer line nearest to France, and endured many sieges from English, French, arid Spaniards. The most memorable, perhaps, was that of 1581, by the Prince of Parma, when the defence was conducted by a woman, the Princess d'Espinoi, of the noble family of La Laing, She is said to have united the skill of a prudent general to the most intrepid bravery. Though wounded in the arm, she refused to quit the ram- parts, and at length only yielded to capitulation when three-fourths of her garrison had fallen around her, Henry VIII. took Tournay in 1518'; and bestowed the see on his favourite "Wolsey, who, bribed by the offer of Francis I.'s interest in obtaining for him the papacy, not only yielded up the bishopric, but induced his master to sell the town to the French King. The most interesting edifice in the town is the Cathedral, conspicuous from all sides with its 5 towers ; it is exceed- ingly fine, especially in its interior. It was founded by King Childeric, whose capital Tournay was. The existing edifice is vn. great part Romanesque. The "W. front has been disfigured by various alterations ; a groined porch in the pointed style extends the whole length of the front, and above it a large pointed window has been introduced, so as to destroy entirely its original cha- racter. The sculpture about the porch is in part very ancient, but the greater part is modern. The cathedral is en- tered by 2 doors, one on the 1ST. side of the nave, the other on the S., adjoining the transept. The N. door is of the transition period. It consists of a semi- circular archway beneath a pointed tre- foil arch, the whole profusely adorned with ranges of sculptured figures, ani- mals, and foliage. The nave has an aisle on each side, separated by piers and small columns, bearing semicircular arches, which in various parts approach the horse-shoe form. Above these is a second range of piers and arches, of similar or greater height than the first, forming the front of a large gallery, extending the width of the aisles. Over these is a series of arches against the wall, springing from short piers. The clerestory and the vaulted ceiling were built in 1777, and took the place of the ancient wooden roof; they will shortly be restored to their original appearance. The rest of the nave dates from the 11th cent. All the capitals of the lower columns in the nave are sculp- tured to represent foliage, and are ex- ceedingly sharp and clear. The four great arches at the junction of the cross are pointed, and have been embel- lished by colour, much of which is still visible. The semicircular absis at each end of the transept is good. Over these are two triforia and a clerestory, and the whole terminates in a half dome, with plain ribs converging to a point. Originally the choir was about ?} the length of the building, and terminated in an absis similar to those of the tran- septs. The present choir, begun 1100, in the pointed style, 110 ft. high, sepa- rated from the nave by a screen (date 1566), enriched with marble, sur- mounted by a statue of St. Michael, is enclosed by a series of horse-shoe, acutely pointed arches of the lightest and most graceful proportions. In each spandril of these arches is a circular ornament in Mosaic work, and above rise a very elegant triforium and lofty clerestory. Behind the triforium is a series of peculiar quatrefoil lights, blocked up and unknown until lately (as, indeed, was the whole of the tri- Belgium. ROUTE 15. — TOURNAY. FONTENOT. A I II. 109 foriuni), but now again filled with stained glass. The pillars in the choir were originally constructed with (hat daring which characterises many of the earlier efforts of pointed architecture, and soon gave symptoms of insuffi- ciency. They were then strengthened by additional masonry at the back, and even now are remarkable for their light- ness and elegance. Behind the high altar is placed the Gothic shrine of St. Eleutherius (first Bishop of Tournay, in (he Gth cent.), of silver gilt, of very rich workmanship, surrounded by figures of the 1 2 apostles. At the first French revolution this church was not only stripped of its revenues, but pillaged and defaced ; its sculpture broken, and its painted glass for the most part de- molished. The shrine escaped through the zeal of a citizen of the town, who buried it. The chapter is now sup- ported by the Government, which has also laid out 2O,00OJ. most judiciously in restoring the building. Many paint- ings covered with whitewash have been brought to light. At the back of the altar is some rich sculpture by Duqucs- noy, and the marble monument of a Prince of Solms. There is also a paint- ing by Rubens, the Souls in Purgatory ; and in the Sacristy, among a gorgeous collection of priestly robes, is the coro- nation mantle of the Empr. Charles V. King Childcric I., the father of Clovis, and whom some consider the real founder of the French monarchy, died in 482, and was buried in the church of St. Brice, on the opposite side of the Schelde. In las coffin were found a great many curio- sities, now deposited in the Biblotheque du Roi at Paris ; among them the "Golden Bees," with which his royal robes are supposed to have been studded. They were, in consequence, adopted by Buonaparte in his coronation vestments, in preference to the fleurs de lis, as sym- bols of the imperial dignity. The ancient Convent of St. Martin, with its Gothic church, is now converted into an Hotel de Yille. It likewise con- tains a Museum, and adjoining it is a shad} - walk called the Park, and the Bo- tanic Garden. There are some inter- esting specimens of domestic architec- ture in Tournay. See § 25, p. 96. Perkin Warbeck, the pretender to the throne of Henry VII., who gave himself out as one of the princes mur- dered in the Tower, was, by his own confession, the son of a Jew of Tournay. At Vaux, on the banks of the Schelde, 2 m. from Tournay, is a square structure with turrets in the corners, probably of Roman origin. The valley of the Schelde around Tournay is very fertile, producing much corn. Lime is found in abundance : it is quarried in many places and exported far and wide. About 5 m. S.E. of Tournay, on the rt. of the post-road to Ath, after passing the village of Bourqucmbrays, lies the battle-field of Fontenoy, where the English under the Duke of Cumber- land, with the Dutch and Austrians, were defeated in 1745 by the French under Marshal Saxe, who was at the time so ill as to be unable to sit on horseback or to wear armour, and was therefore carried in a litter. Though the result was unfavourable to the Eng- lish, the skill shown by their com- manders and the bravery of the troops were highly creditable to them. The fortune of the day was in some measure decided by the bravery of the Irish bat- talions in the pay of France, who were driven abroad at that period by the poli- tical state of Ireland. Bary Stat. Leuze Stat. A town of 5000 inhab. Ligne Stat. Ath Stat. — (Inns : Cignc, good ; Paon d' Or.)— Ath on the Dender, with 8500 inhab., is a fortress upon which Vauban employed his utmost skill, and for which, since the battle of Waterloo, modern art has done all that is practicable to in- crease its strength. It is a flourishing manufacturing town. The principal buildings are the Hotel de Ville, a structure of the time of the Archduke Albert (1600), and the Church of St. J alien, founded in 1393, destroyed by lightning, except its E. end, in 1817, and since rebuilt, but without its tall steeple. The most ancient monument in the town is a tower called Tour du Burbard, which probably dates from 1150. About 6 m. from Ath, not far off the 110 16. — CALAIS TO COURTRAI. Sect. II. road, is Belceil, the patrimonial estate of the Prince de Ligne, celebrated as a dip- lomatist, a soldier, and an author. He gives in his letters a long description of his country seat and gardens : they were laid out in the formal French taste by le Notre, and excited the admiration of Delille, who mentions this spot in his poem "Les Jardins," as — " Beloeil tout a la fois magnifique et cham- petre." Both Voltaire and Delille visited the Prince in his retirement here. The Castle is an ancient Gothic edifice, built in 1146, surrounded by water. It con- tains some interesting historical relics and works of art ; paintings by Diirer, Holbein, Van Dyk, Velazquez, L. da Vinci, Salv. Rosa ; also a collection of firearms, from their invention. The number and length of the avenues and high hornbeam hedges, with windows cut in them, intersecting the grounds in all directions, form the singular and characteristic feature of the Park. The cultivation of the mulberry and silkworm has been introduced at Meslin l'Eveque, near Ath, apparently with good success. An extensive establish- ment (Magnanerie) was formed here by the government of the King of Holland. 2^ posts from Ath, on the post-road to Brussels, is Enghien, a town of 3680 inhab. It was an ancient possession of the houses of Luxemburg and Bourbon, but was sold by Henry IV., King of France, to the Duke d'Aremberg, in 1607, and still remains in the possession of his family. The chateau of the Duke was destroyed at the French Re- volution ; but the beautiful park and gardens deserve notice. They served, it is said, as a model for the famous gardens of Versailles, and are laid out in the same formal style, with avenues, temples, statues, canals, basins of water, &c. 7 avenues of beech and horse- chestnuts diverge from a temple in the park. A fine conservatory has recently been added. Maffles Stat. Attre Stat. Brugelette Stat. Lens Stat. Jurbise Stat. Here the railway joins that from Valenciennes and Mons. For the rest of the route to Brussels see Rte. 32. ROUTE 16. CALAIS TO COURTRAI, BY DUNKIRK AND YPRES. 58 kilom. and 13 Belg. posts = 83 Eng. m. Road good, but paved. Diligences twice a day to Dunkirk, in 5 hrs. 24 Gravelines. A fortress and deso- late-looking small town, with grass growing in its streets : it has 3000 inhab. " It is," to use the words of an old writer, " very strong, by reason that they can drown it round in 4 hours, so as no land shall be within a mile of it." It is surrounded by a plain, once a vast marsh, below the level of the sea, nearly 20 m. long by 12 broad: almost all this can be laid under water in case of need, to ward off a hostile invasion on this side of France. At present this district supports a population of 60,000. It is protected from the sea by the dunes or sand-hills, and is gradually being drained by its inhabitants. It would cost the arrondissement 10 millions of francs to repair the damage caused by admitting the waters upon the land. The Empr. Charles V. here paid a visit to Henry VIII. on his return from his interview with Francis I. at the Field of the Cloth of Gold, 1520. Beyond Gravelines the road is paved. 20 Dunkirk ; Fr. Dunkerque (Inns: H. de Flandres, very good and not dear ; table-d'hote at 6, good, 2-^ fr. ; breakfast with eggs, 1 fr. 75 c; — Chaperon Rouge) ; a considerable fortified town and seaport, with 25,400 inhab. Large sums have been expended in endeavour- ing to clear the mouth of the harbour from the bar of sand which obstructs it, by means of basins and sluices, which are filled by the flowing of the tide and dis- charged at low water, so as to scour a channel through the mud. They are said to have failed in producing the results anticipated. Dunkirk, nevertheless, is the best harbour which France possesses in the N". Sea, and ranks fourth in the value of its exports and imports of all the seaports in the kingdom. It serves Belgium. ROUTK 16. — CALAIS TO COURTRAr. DUNKIRK. Ill as the outlet for the manufacturing dis- trict of the Dcpt. du Nord. " It is one of the cleanest towns in France, with wide streets, well payed — living cheap — baths very good." — D. C. The Qu«i, usually crowded with ves- sels, and Pier extending far into the sea, are worth seeing; so is the Corinthian portico of the church of St. Eloi, a handsome hut most incongruous frontis- piece to a Gothic building : in front of it is a fine detached Gothic belfry con- taining the chimes. The interior of the church is fine : it has a double side aisle. There is an English Protestant church, Rue des Scours Blanches — a proof of the number of British residents. A statue of Jean Bart, a famous sea- captain, born here (temp. Louis XIV.), stands in the great market-place. Dunkirk owes its origin to a chapel built by St. Eloi in the 7th cent, among the dunes or sand-hills, and thence comes its name — " Church of the Dimes." Here was equipped the Flemish division of the Spanish armada, designed to combine in the invasion of England under the command of the Prince of Parma ; but that skilful general, per- haps foreseeing the result, refrained from putting out to sea. Dunkirk, after hav- ing been hardly won by the English, under Oliver Cromwell, from the Spa- niards, 1658, was basely sold by Charles II. to Louis XIV. for 6 millions of livres, in 1662. By the Treaty of Utrecht (1715) the French were compelled to demolish the town and fortifications ; and an English commissioner was actually sent hither to ascertain that the stipulations of the treaty were complied with to the letter — a source of deep humiliation to French pride, but of more immediate misery to the poor inhabitants. The port and fortifications were not restored and re- built until 1740. The country around is little better than a dreary waste of sand-hills thrown up by the wind. It was in the neigh- bourhood of them that Turenne defeated, in 1658, the Spanish army under Don John of Austria and the great Conde, who had sided at that time with the enemies of France, in the battle of the Dunes. The siege of the town had been commenced by Mazarin, at the dictation of Cromwell, whose fleet blockaded it by sea. The Spaniards, unprovided with ar- tillery, advanced to meet the French, by marching close to the sea. Conde remonstrated in vain with Don John against a measure so perilous : " Vous ne connaissez pas M. de Turenne," said he ; "on nc fait pas impunement des fautes devant un si grand homme :" and just as the action began he turned to the young Duke of Gloucester and asked if he had ever been in a battle be- fore. "No," answered the Duke. "Then you will see one lost in half an hour." The action was commenced by 6000 English soldiers of Cromwell, command- ed by Lockhart, his ambassador, who formed the left wing of the French army, and distinguished themselves eminently : their charge carried everything before it, and contributed not a little to the result. The Duke of York (afterwards James II.) fought in the opposite ranks, at the head of a regiment of cavaliers ; and it was from them that then - fellow- countrymen suffered most. The Spani- ai'ds lost 4000 men, and Dunkirk surren- dered 10 days after in consequence of this defeat. There is a canal from Dunkirk to Fumes, Ostcnd, and Bruges, traversed daily by a barge. Diligences daily to Ostend. Steamers to London and Hamburg every Satur- day ; to St. Petersburg the 1st and 15th of every month. A railway connects Dunkirk with the line from Calais to Lille and Paris at Hazebrouck, passing by Bergues and Cassel. Its length is 41 kilom. = 25f m. 8 Bergues Stat, (see below). 9 Esquclbccq Stat. 7 Arnecke Stat. 7 Cassel Stat. — (Inns : H. du Sauvage ; II. du Lion Blanc.) It is worth while, in fine weather, to stop here for a short time to enjoy the view. Cassel is an ancient town of 4234 inhab. Here at length the country becomes more inter- esting. Cassel is most agreeably situ- ated, commanding one of the 1 most ex- tensive views in Europe. Although it 112 ROUTE 16. — BERGUES. YPRES. Sect. II. has no striking features, it cannot be contemplated without deep interest, as exhibiting on a clear day an unusually extensive tract of highly cultivated and productive country. Its most remark- able feature is that the horizon is almost always equally distant in every direc- tion, as no rising ground interrupts the sight. It extends over the flat and fer- tile plains of Flanders and as far as the white cliffs of England, into 3 different kingdoms ; includes 32 towns and 100 villages. St. Omer, Dunkirk, Yypres, Ostend, and the beautiful steeple of Hazebrouck are the most prominent ob- jects : no fresh water is visible in this vast expanse. Mount Cassel is only 515 Eng. ft. high. It was one of the principal signal stations of the great trigonometrical survey carried on during the reign of Napoleon. A small map of the country visible may be purchased on the spot for 20 sous. The gardens and grounds of the late General Vandamme, who was born here, are commonly shown to strangers, and are very tastefully laid out. The stable is worthy of remark on account of its size. " Flemish is the general language of the entire population in the N. parts of the Dept. du Nord. It is spoken at Cassel, and as far as Watel." — G. C. L. 10 Hazebrouck Stat. (See Rte. 15.) Route to Courtrai continued by rail- way to — Bergues [Inn : Poste ; small but cheap), a small and poor fortified town of 6000 inhab., situated on an elevation surrounded by marshes and salt lakes, called Moeren, formerly waste and insa- lubrious ; but having been drained with- in a few years, by the construction of hydraulic works, they are now becom- ing more productive and less unwhole- some. Though only a fortress of the third class, the possession of Bergues has been deemed of such consequence in every war that it has been 8 times taken and retaken and 9 times pillaged in the course of 8 centuries. It has a pictur- esque beffroi 150 ft. high. A very im- portant corn-market is held here every Monday. The gates are closed at 10, after which neither ingress nor egress is allowed. The French frontier and custom-house is reached at Oest Cappel. Here the " acquit a, caution" (p. 102) must be de- livered up. The country through which the road passes is most fertile, enclosed with hedges and abounding in wood, which gives it, though flat, a pleasing English character. Large quantities of hops are cultivated in this district. 1| Rousbrugge, a Belgian village. 2 1 Ypres (Inns : la Chatellenie ; Tete d'Or), a fortified town of 15,750 inhab., in a fertile plain. The marshes around it have, for the most part, been drained, and it is consequently less un- healthy than formerly. The kind of linen called diaper, that is, a" Ypres, was made here. The English word comes from the corrupt pronunciation of the name of the place where it was manufactured. Thread is the principal article made here at present. The extent and prosperity of its manu- factures had raised the number of its inhab. to 200,000 souls in the 14th cent., at which period 4000 looms were con- stantly at work. Its importance has long since departed, and the only relic which remains to prove its former greatness is the Town House, called Les Holies, in the great market-place, a building of prodigious size, long and low, and in a rich style of Gothic architecture, surmounted by a stately belfry tower in the centre. It was begun in 1230, and continued till 1342. The E. end, supported on pillars, was added in 1730. It was, in fact, a cloth hall, devoted to the service of the cloth manufacturers in olden times. Close to it is the Cathedral of St. Martin, a Gothic edifice of considerable size, but not of great beauty. It contains a carved pulpit, and a picture representing, in compartments, the story of the Fall of Man, attributed to Van Eyck, but bear- ing the date 1525, and probably by Peter Porbus. It is well coloured, and a faith- ful representation of the human form, but without grace or beauty. A flat- stone in the choir marks the tomb of Jansen, founder of the sect called Jan- senists, so long persecuted by the Jesu- Belgium, ROUTE 16. — COURTRAI. BATTLE OF SPUKS. 113 its. He was Bishop of Ypres, and died L683. •2\ M i :n i s (Inn : Faucon), on the Lys. Another frontier fortress, with 7640 in- hah.. very dismal and lifeless. It lies quite close to the boundary line of Franco, which actually touches the glacis. On the way to Courtrai is the village of Bisseghem, near which the Duke of York was defeated in 1793 by General Souham, and lost 65 pieces of cannon. Courtrai (Flemish Kortrvk). Trms: Poste, called also the Dander, good and cheap; table-d'hotc at 12 J: Lion d'Or — both in the Great Place. A manufacturing town of 21,500 in- hab., on the Lys, remarkable for its cleanliness and for the table damask and other linen made here, which is sent to all parts of Europe. An immense quan- tity of flax of very fine quality is culti- vated in the surrounding plain, and supplies not only the manufactories of the town, but many of the markets of Europe. There are largo bleaching- grounds in the neighbourhood, the waters of the Lys being supposed to possess qualities favourable for bleaching as well as for the steeping of flax. The first Flemish cloth manufacture was established here in 1260. The principal buildings are the Hotel d'j Vil/e in the market-place, a Gothic edifice, built 1526, but defaced by a modern front. It contains two veiy singular carved chimney-pieces, con- taining figures of the Virtues and Vices, bas-reliefs of subjects relating to the municipal and judicial destination of the building, and to events in the early his- tory of the town, including a procession of women on horseback, holding a ban- ner in one hand and a dagger in the other. Many of them may be styled caricatures in bas-relief. They bear the date of 1587 and 1595. The statues of Charles V., and of the Archduke Albert and Archduchess Isabella, occupy con- spicuous places. The Church of Notre Dame is a Gothic edifice, founded 1238 by Baldwin Count of Flanders and Empr. of Constantinople, but modernised, except a small portion on one side, and lined with marble. It contains behind the high altar a cele- brated painting by Yandyk, the Raising of the Cross. The drawing is bold and powerful, reminding one of ltubens ; only the colouring is inferior to his in freshness. The current story, that the canons of the church, being dissatisfied with the picture when sent home, abused it before the artist's face, and that he in consequence refused to paint any others for them after they had con- fessed their error, is rendered doubtful by the discovery at Ghent of Vandyk's atitograph letter, acknowledging with thanks the receipt of the money for the painting, as well as of some goffres, a thin sweet cake, for which Courtrai is still celebrated, presented to him by the canons. In St. Martin's Ch., N. side of choir, is a beautiful tabernacle or shrine of carved stonework, in the richest Gothic style — date probably end of the 1 5th cent. — for holding the sacrament. Courtrai once boasted of a curious clock, in which 2 figures, male and female, came out alternately to strike the hours. This gave rise to the saying applied to a husband and wife who are never seen together : "lis s'accordent comme Jac- quemart (i. e. Jaken (Jem) op de markt) et sa femme." Charles the Bold carried it to Dijon in 1382. The old bridge and its Flemish flank- ing towers make a picturesque group. Under the walls of Courtrai was fought the famous Battle of Spurs, 1302 (not to be confounded with the " Battle of Spurs " in which Henry VIII. put the French chivalry to flight, 1513), gained by an army of 20,000 Flemings, prin- cipally weavers of Ghent and Bruges, under the Count de Namur, over the French under the Count d'Artois, in which the latter was slain, and with him 1 200 knights, while several thou- sand common soldiers were left dead on the field. 700 gilt spurs (an ornament worn only by the French nobility) were gathered on the field from the dead, and hung up as a trophy in the church of the convent of Groenangen, now de- stroyed : from this circumstance the battle receives its name. A small cha- pel, built 1831, on the rt. of the road, a little way outside the Porte de Gand, marks the centre of the battle-field. Railroads to Ghent and to Lille (see E. 15), with a branch to Tournay (p. 114 ROUTE 17. CALAIS TO BRUGES. Sect. II. 107), turning off at Mouscron, where the Belgian Custom-house is. EOUTE 17. CALAIS TO OSTEND OR BRUGES. 66 kilom. to Fumes, thence to Ostend 4~ Belg. posts ; Furnes to Bru- ges 5| Belg. posts ; Calais to Ostencl 61f Eng. m., to Bruges 69 m. A very uninteresting route : the road is improved, hut 2 leagues of sand near the frontier, a drive of 1\ hrs., remain unpaved. A well-appointed omnibus runs daily from Dunkirk to Ostend, in direct com- munication with the railway trains, in 5 hrs. Avoid the trekschuit from Dun- kirk to Ostend. The nearest way from Dunkirk to Furnes, when the state of the tide per- mits, is across the sands by the sea-side ; but they are sometimes quick. At the extremity of the sands, about 4 m. from Furnes, is the boundary of France and Belgium, and the station of the custom- house. 22 Furnes (Flemish, Yeuren). A sickly town, owing to the malaria from the surrounding marshes — 4600 inhab. A great part of the linen manufactured in Belgium is sold here at large fairs held three times a year. The portion of the Abbey of St. Wille- brod which escaped the ravages of the French Be volution is curious. The choir is entire and fine, resembling that of the Dom at Cologne, though on a smaller scale, and less ornamented. It contains an image of the Virgin, which annually works a great many miracles, and her shrine is thickly furnished with votive offerings in consequence. The Hotel de Ville is a Gothic building, pro- fusely ornamented with carvings. [At Dixmude, about 8 m. E. of Fur- nes, is a fine and large Gothic church, containing a stone Roodscreen of most elaborate and beautiful workmanship, in an excessively florid (flamboyant) style, corresponding, though not identi- cal, with our Tudor architecture. Over the high altar hangs a chef-d'oeuvre of Jordaens, the Adoration of the Magi.] The direct road from Furnes to Os- tend is a long stage of 4| posts by Nieuwport, a strong fortress, memorable for the victory gained on the sand-hills outside its walls at "Westende, by Prince Maurice of Nassau, in 1600, over the Spaniards. His brother, Prince Fre- deric Henry, then only 15, and several young English noblemen, led on by Sir Francis and Horace Vere, served under him. When the action was about to commence, Maurice, who foresaw that it would be a bloody engagement, and had made up his mind to conquer or perish, recommended the youthful band to return to Ostend and reserve them- selves for some other occasion. They scorned to accept the suggestion, and determined to share all the perils of the contest. In the first onset Sir Francis Vere was desperately wounded, and the English volunteers suffered severely, though they gave an eminent example of courage. The good generalship of Prince Maurice was never more con- spicuous than on that day, and the arms of the patriots were eventually triumphant. As there is nothing at all to see at Ostend, travellers had better make di- rectly for Bruges by Ghistelles, by which they will be gainers in time and distance. 3^ Ghistelles. This is a pretty vil- lage, named from the stable or stud of the Counts of Flanders, which was situated here, attached to the old Castle, slight remains of which still exist. In the neighbourhood is a nunnery and Church, containing the monument of St. Godalieve, wife of Bertulf Lord of Ghistelles, in the 11th cent., who was strangled by her husband through jealousy, and is now worshipped as a saint. Her bones lie in a shrine of brass, before which a lamp burns night and day. Above her altar is a group of 3 figures, as large as life, representing the murder. 2| Bruges. See Bte. 21. ROUTE 18. LONDON TO ANTWERP BY THE SCHELDE. About 210 m. A Belgian and 2 Eng- lish steamers go from London every Belgium, route 18. — London to antwebp. walcheben. 115 Sun. and Thurs. ; from Antwerp every Sun. and Wed. Fares : chief cabin, 2/. 2s.; second cabin, 1/. L2s. Gd.; a Carriage, -I/.; and in returning much loss. The voyage occupies from 20 to 24 hrs., 7 of which arc taken up in descending the Thames and G in as- cending the Schelde. The return pas- sage is usually shorter. The course from the Thames to the Schelde is almost a straight line. It was the, situation of the Schelde, immediately opposite 1 the mouth of the English river and the port of London, that caught the attention of Napoleon, who saw what advantageous use might be made of such a harbour to annoy the English in war or rival them in commerce. On entering the mouth of the river called the Ilond, or West Schelde, the land on the 1. hand is Walcheren, the largest of the 9 islands which form the province of Zealand, or Zceland (Sea land). The district is most appropriately named, since the greater part of it lies many feet below the level of the sea ; it may, therefore, truly be said to appertain naturally to that element. The isles of Zealand, separated from one another by the different branches of the Schelde, are protected from the inroads of the ocean, partly by natural sand-banks or dunes (§ 12), partly by enormous dykes or sea-walls (§ 9), which measure more than 300 m. in extent, and cost annu- ally more than 2 millions of florins to keep them in repair. Of the great dyke at West Kappel, in the island of Wal- cheren, it is said, that, had it been ori- ginally made of solid copper, the first cost woidd have been less than the sums already expended in building and re- pairing it. The polders, or drained and dyked meadows, are divided by the water engineers into two classes — those nearest the sea or river, which arc of course most exposed to inundation, are called polders calamitevx ; the more dis- tant are distinguished as non calamiteux. The first class requires stronger dykes, the maintenance of which is considered so important that they are kept up partly at the expense of government; those further inland, not being equally ex- posed to danger, are maintained by the province or by private individuals. A large portion of the country being thus partitioned out, as it were, by dykes, even should the outer or sea- dyke break, the extent of the disaster is limited by these inner defences, and the further ravages of the flood are pre- vented. Notwithstanding the care with which they are continually watched, a rupture took place, in 1808, in the great dyke of West Kappel, by which a great part of the island of Walcheren was in- undated ; the sea stood as high as the roofs of the houses in the streets of Middelburg, and the destruction of that town was prevented solely by the strength of its walls. The whole province is most fertile and productive, especially in corn and madder, which may be considered the staple. Its meadows, manured with wood ashes, bear excellent grass. It is also exceedingly populous, abounding in towns and villages ; but, owing to the embankments which enclose them, the only indications of their existence are the summits of spires, roofs, and tall chimneys, seen at intervals over these artificial mounds by those who ascend the Schelde. The industry of the Zea- land peasant, and the economy with which he husbands his resources, are very remarkable, and might furnish a good example to the same class in our own country. As an instance of the mode in which he makes a little go a great way, it may be mentioned, that even from the rushes and reeds on the river banks he gains a meal for his cattle. When boiled, mixed with a little hay, and sprinkled with a little salt, they are much relished by the cows who thrive upon them, and yield abundance of milk. The island (rt.) opposite to Wal- cheren ' is Cadsand, memorable in the English expedition of 1809. Cadsand had been, at an earlier period, the scene of a glorious victory gained by the valiant Sir Walter Manny and Henry Plantagenet Earl of Derby, at the head of the chivalry of England, over a large body of Flemings, in the pay of Philip dc Yalois, King of France, in 1337. The English, effecting a land- ing in the face of the enemy, drove them from the sand-hills on which they 116 ROUTE 18. LONDON TO ANTWERP. FLUSHING. Sect. II. were posted, and took, burned, and razed the town. The cloth-yard shafts of the English archers did great exe- cution, and the personal prowess of the two leaders contributed not a little to the issue of the day. The first town which is perceived on the 1. of the spectator, and rt. bank of the river, is (ft.) Flushing (Dutch, Ylissingen). Inn, Heerenlogement, not very good. A fortified town of 7000 inhab., with dockyard and naval arsenal : 2 large and deep canals, communicating wj.th the sea, enable the largest merchant vessels to penetrate into the town, and unload their cargoes on the quays, close to the warehouses. It was bombarded and taken by the English, under Lord Chatham in 1809, when a great part of the town was destroyed, and 300 of the inhab. pe- rished. This unprofitable and cruel exploit was the sole result of the Wal- cheren expedition, and the only achieve- ment of the largest and best-equipped armament which ever left the shores of Britain, consisting of 37 ships of the line, 23 frigates, and 82 gun-boats, con- taining a force of. 100,000 men, who might have carried Antwerp by a coup- de-main. Since then the works of Flushing have been greatly strength- ened, and in combination with the Fort of Rammekens, lying to the E., and those of Breskens, on the opposite side of the Schelde (here from 2^- to 3 m. broad), completely command the en- trance of the river. Admiral de Ruiter was born here, the son of a rope-maker ; a statue has been erected to him by his townsfolk. The fine Stadhuis (Town Hall), 2 churches, and more than 100 houses, were destroyed by the bombs and Con- greve rockets of the English. Within the walls there is nothing but the usual singularities of a Dutch town (§ 10) to excite the attention of a stranger, but at West Kappel the construction of the dykes is seen in the greatest perfection. At this point there is a gap in the Dunes, and the country behind would be at the mercy of the sea, were it not de- fended by a dyke 4700 yds. long and 30 ft. high, upon the stability of which the safety of the whole island depends. [5 m. inland from Flushing is Middelburg, capital of Zealand, (/ww, Heerenlogement, not bad.) 14,000 in- hab. A remarkably clean town, with a splendid Town Hall, built, 1468, by Charles the Bold, ornamented with 25 colossal statues of Counts and Count- esses of Flanders. The telescope was invented at Mid- delburg, in 1601, by one Hans Lipper- shey, a spectacle-maker.] The climate of Walcheren is most un- healthy in spring and autumn, when even the natives are liable to ague, or a species of marsh fever called the koorts. This disease is far more fatal to stran- gers, as was proved by the deaths of 7000 English soldiers, who perished here during the disastrous and ill-con- trived expedition of 1809. The fever, however, is not contagious, and may be avoided by protecting the person with warm clothes against the sudden transi- tions of temperature, and by careful diet. Many of the inhabitants are very long-lived ; and the mortality among the English became so great from the circumstance of their arriving during the most unhealthy season, from their being exposed in tents to the night-air, and from their incautious consumption of green fruit. The distance from Flushing to Antr werp up the river is reckoned to be about 62 m. The island next to Wal- cheren, forming the rt. bank of the river, is Zuid Beveland. On the 1. bank, but at some dis- tance off, is Biervliet, a small town, only deserving of mention because a native of this place, named William Beukels, invented in 1386 the art of curing herrings. A monument was erected in the church to him as a bene- factor to his country ; and it is related that Charles V., and his sister the Queen of Hungary, visited his tomb, out of respect to the memory of the fisherman to whom Holland owes a large part of her wealth. Biervliet was detached from the con- tinent by an inundation in 1377, which submerged 19 villages and nearly all their inhab. Dutch industry and per- severance have long since recovered every acre. Belgium, route 18. — London to Antwerp, the schelde. 117 (/.) Terneusen.— -Near tliis are tin- Sluice-gates which close the entrance of the new canal extending to Ghent, which gives that city all the advantages of a seaport, as it is 10 ft. dee}), and wide enough to admit vessels of very large burthen. It serves also as a drain to carry off the water from the district through which it passes. At Sas van Oend are sluices, by means of which the whole country can he laid under water. The artificial embankments on each side of the Schelde are protected against the current, and masses of floating ice brought down in winter, by piers and breakwaters of piles driven into the river bed, or by masonry brought from a considerable distance in the interior, principally from Namur. Below this both banks of the Schelde belong to Holland; but, after passing the termination of the island of Zuid Beveland, the river flows through Bel- gian territory. The strait or passage called Kreek Bak, which separates Zuid Beveland from the main land, is commanded by the very strong Fort Batz, which lies on the limits of the Dutch territory. Etc. 13. On approaching Forts Lillo (rt.) and Liefkenshoek (/.), the city of Antwerp with its tall spire appears in sight. These tw r o strong works remained after the Belgic revolution in the hands of the Dutch down to 1839, when they were dismantled and given up to the Belgians in exchange for Venloo in Limburg, and abandoned in conformity with the Treaty of the Quadruple Al- liance. They completely commanded the passage; up and down the Schelde, which here puts on the appearance of a river; lower down it is more an arm of the sea, flowing between the islands of Zealand. The polders (§ 11) above Fort Lief- kenshoek, on the 1, bank, were laid under water during the contest with the Dutch, by cutting the dykes, and down to 1838 an extensive tract of country remained in consequence de- 30late and useless. 5 or tJ other forts arc passed on cither side of the river previous to arriving at Antwerp. Be- tween (/.) Calloo and (W.) Oordam, in L 585, the Duke of Parma threw across the Schelde his celebrated bridge ^400 ft. long, which, by (losing the naviga- tion of the river, and preventing the arrival of supplies of provisions to the besieged city of Antwerp, mainly con- tributed to its surrender. The bridge was so strongly built that it resisted the floods and ice of winter ; 97 pieces of cannon were mounted on it, 2 forts guarded its extremities, and a protect- ing fleet was stationed, beside it to assist in repelling any attack. The hesieged, who, at first, laughed to scorn the notion of rendering such a structure permanent, when they found that all communication with their friends was cut off by it, began to tremble for the result, and every effort was made by them to effect its destruction. One night, the Spaniards were surprised by the appearance of 3 blazing fires float- ing down the stream, and bearing directly towards the bridge. These were fire-ships invented by a foreign engineer then within the walls of Ant- werp. The Prince of Parma rushed to the bridge to avert the threatening danger, and, had he not been forcibly removed from it, would probably have lost his life ; for one of the vessels, reaching its destination with great pre- cision, blew up with such tremendous force as to burst through the bridge in spite of its chains and cables, and de- molished one of the stockades which connected it with the shore. 800 Spanish soldiers were destroyed by the explosion, and Parma himself was struck down senseless by a beam. Had the Zealand fleet been at hand, as pro- posed, the city might have been re- lieved; unfortunately some untoward mistake prevented its co-operation at the right moment, and allowed the Spanish general time to repair the damages, which, with his usual acti- vity, he effected in an incredibly short space. Another attempt on the part of the besieged to destroy the bridge, by means of an enormous floating ma- chine called the "End of the War," an unprophetic name, was entirely frus- trated by the vessel running aground; and Antwerp, reduced by famine, was compelled to surrender. 118 ROUTE 19. GHENT TO BRUSSELS. Sect. II. It was immediately in front of the fort of St. Laurent, below the town of Antwerp, that an instance of patriotic devotion was manifested on the part of a Dutch officer, which deserves to rank by the side of the heroic deeds of the Spartans and Romans. In February, 1831, while hostilities were still in progress between Holland and Bel- gium, one of the Dutch gun-boats, in sailing up the Schelde from Fort Aus- truweel to the citadel during a heavy gale, twice missed stays. In spite of all the exertions of the crew, the vessel took the ground close under the guns of the fort, and within a few yards of the docks. The helpless situation of the gun-boat had been marked by crowds of Belgians from the shore ; and the moment she was fast, a body of Belgian volunteers leaped on board, in haste to make a prize of the stranded vessel. The commander, a young officer named Van Speyk, was called on, in a triumphant tone, to haul down his colours and surrender. He saw that all chance of rescue, and of successful resistance against . unequal numbers, were alike vain ; but he had repeatedly before expressed his determination never to yield up his vessel, and he proved as good as his word. He rushed down to the powder magazine, laid a lighted cigar upon an open barrel of gunpow- der, and then, falling on his knees to implore forgiveness of the Almighty for the crime of self-destruction, he calmly awaited the result. In a few moments the explosion took place ; and, while the vibration shook the whole city, the dauntless Van Speyk, and all but 3 out of his crew of 31 men, were blown into the air. Van Speyk was an orphan; he had been edu- cated at the public expense in an orphan house at Amsterdam : thus nobly did he repay his debt, and his country and king were not unmindful of him. A monument was set up to his memory by the side of that of De Ruiter, and it was decreed that henceforth a vessel in the Dutch navy should always bear the name of Van Speyk. Antwerp. See Rte. 22. ROUTE 19. GHENT TO BRUSSELS BY ALOST. 6± posts = 30| Eng. m. The Railroad by Mechlin to Brus- sels, though longer, is a quicker way to Brussels than this high road, on which the diligences take 7 hrs. The gate by which we quit Ghent, called the Porte de Bruxelles, or de 1'Empereur, dates from 1300. A stone bridge, built 1820, connects it with the fine suburb of La Pecherie. lj Quadrecht, on the Schelde. Near this the railway crosses the road. 2 Alost (or Aalst). — Inns; H. Pays- Bas; Trois Rois. A town of 14,800 inhab., on the Dender. The name sig- nifies "to the east," i. e. of the Imperial province of Flanders, of which it was the frontier town in that direction. The Cathedral or Ch. of St. Martin is unfinished, or in part destroyed; what is left is very beautiful, and said to be by the architect of Amiens. In it is a celebrated picture, St. Roch inter- ceding with our Saviour to appease the plague at Alost, by Rubens. It is one of his most sublime works, and was carried to Paris by the French. " The composition is upon the same plan as that of St. Bavon at Ghent. The pic- ture is divided into two parts. The Saint and Christ are represented in the upper part, and the effects of the plague in the lower part of the picture. In this piece the grey is rather too predo- minant, and the figures have not that union with their ground which is ge- nerally so admirable in the works of Rubens. I suspect it has been in some picture-cleaner's hands, whom I have often known to darken every part of the ground about the figure, in order to make the flesh look brighter and clearer, by which the general effect is de- destroyed." — Sir J. R. Near the H. de Ville, recently rebuilt by Roelandt, is the ancient Maison Commune, founded in 1200 ; its tower and balcony in front date from 14S7. Alost is a great hop-market, and has considerable cloth manufactures. It is 3 m. S. of the Audeghem station (see p. 135). Omnibuses ply to and from the railroad. Belgium. ROUTE 20. — LONDON TO OSTEND. 119 l£ Assche. A small town of 4000 inhab., trading in Max and hops. " A particular sort of cake is made here : the Flemish name of it has a marvel- lously uncouth appearance; it is suiker- koekjes; nevertheless theyare good cakes, and sold by Jodocus de Bisehop, next door to the aubergo La Tete de Boeuf." — Southey. 1£ Brussels. (See Etc. 23.) ROUTE 20. VOYAGE FROM LONDON OR DOVER TO OSTEND. Steamers to and from London, in summer 4 times a- week, starting from London Wed. and Sat. morning, and returning Tucs. and Fri. The aver- age passage is 15 hrs., 7 of which arc occupied in descending the Thames. Fares : chief cabin, 1/. 4s. ; fore cabin, 18s. ; carriages, 31. 3s. Ostend pre- sents more frequent opportunities of reaching London than cither Antwerp or Rotterdam. Between Dover and Ostend there is now a daily mail communication by first-rate iron steamers, belonging to the English and Belgian governments. The departures on both sides are so arranged as to avoid (excepting in ex- traordinary cases) all landing in boats. The great power of these steamers (120 to 140 h. p.) as compared with their tonnage (190 tons), and their light draft of water (5 to 6 ft.) enable them to save the tide, and to perform the voyage in 4 or 5 hrs. The distance is 63 m. Fares: chief cabin, 15s. ; fore- cabin, 10s. ; children half-price. Car- riages, 2 wheels, 11. lis. 6d. ; 4 wheels, 31. 3s. Persons leaving London by the mail train at 8.30 p.m. may reach Brus- sels or Antwerp at 11.30 next morning, and Cologne in the evening ; Hamburg at 5, and Berlin at 9 o'clock on the fol- lowing evening. In the Belgian govern- ment steamers the luggage is examined during the voyage. Steamers sometimes run during sum- mer from Ilamsgate, which harbour they can leave at all times of the tide, and therefore have less chance of miss- ing the tide at Ostend. The light of Dunkirk, about 15 m. S., is seen before the Ostend light. The harbour of Ostend, which is dry at low water, is flanked by 2 jetties, furnishing agreeable walks ; at the entrance is a bar of sand, which is kept down by the discharge of the sluices connected with the canal to Bruges. Ostend. — Inns: Hotel d'Allcmagnc, close to Railroad stat., good ; — II. Fon- taine, Rue Longuc, new 1850 ; — II. des Bains : charges, table-d'hotc, 3 fr. ; half-bottle of wine 1 fr. 50 c. ; bed 1 fr. 50 c. ; tea or breakfast 1 fr. 50 c. ; — Hotel Marion ;— Cour Imperiale ; — Lion d'Or; quiet. Travellers should be on their guard against drinking water, which is filtered rain-water. Seltzer water is drunk in preference. (§ 6.) The Passport-Office and Custom-house are both near the harbour : they open at 5 A.M. in summer, to prevent delay to passengers who may desire to pro- ceed on their journey. If the traveller reaches Ostend in time to proceed on to Bruges the same evening, he will find it the better place to spend the night at. A commissionaire will attend to the passport and secure places, and consider himself well paid by 2 fr. N.B. Passengers going direct to Cologne need not have their baggage searched at Ostend. They may place it under the charge of an officer of the rail- road, who is to be found at the Custom- house, who takes charge of it at once, and it will be delivered again on the production of the ticket at Cologne, where it is examined. Such luggage is marked " in transit." Vigilantes, § 22 A. English is much spoken, and there is even an English Chapel here. A few hotirs at Ostend exhaust a traveller's patience; while the visit to the douane, and the extortions of inn- keepers and commissionaires, are not likely to improve his temper. The best advice which can be given to any one about to embark hence to England is not to set out for this place a moment sooner than will enable him to go com- fortably on board the steamer. Those whom accident or design may detain will perhaps be glad of the following information : — Ostend contains 14,244 inhab. ; it stands in an angle between the sea and the harbour, and even on the land-side 120 ROUTE 21. OSTEND TO BRUGES, ETC. Sect. II. is nearly surrounded by water. The land lies very low all round, and the waters are controlled by means of sluices. Ostend is strongly fortified, and sur- rounded by ramparts and broad ditches. It endured one of the most famous sieges recorded in history, from the Spaniards ; it lasted 3£ years, from 1601 to 1604. The town yielded to the Spanish general Spinola at last, only by command of the States- General, who had gained their point by its obstinate resistance. 50,000 men of the besieged, and 80,000 Spaniards, are said to have fallen during the siege. The victors paid dearly for their conquest; all that they gained was a plot of ground covered with a heap of ruins ; for their cannon had levelled every house with the earth ; and they lost 4 other towns, which were wrested from them by the Dutch while their armies were engaged in this unprofitable enterprise. The noise of the bombardment was, it is said, heard in London at times. As a fortress Ostend forms the first member of that great chain of defences which were intended to protect Belgium on the side of France. Neither the public buildings here, nor the churches, are remarkable, except to those who have never before seen the paraphernalia of the Roman Catholic religion. The only thing worth seeing, and the most agreeable spot in Ostend, is the Digue, a sea-wall 40 ft. high and •^ m. long, extending between the sea and the ramparts, faced with stone and paved with bricks, which forms a public promenade, and commands a wide ex- tent of dimes and flat sands to the sea, not a tree being visible. This and the wooden Piers stretching on both sides of the harbour's mouth are much re- sorted to in the evening. Ostend is a favourite watering-place, and is much resorted to in summer (Aug. and Sept.) ; even the King and Queen of the Belgians repair hither, and occupy 2 or 3 ordinary -looking houses in the Rue Longue. There are 80 Bathing Machines on the beach, and the sands are very extensive and smooth, and crowded with bathers of both sexes, decorously clad in bath dresses, by order of the police. A bathing-house, Pavilion des Bains, has been established close to the sea, on this Digue. In the Town-hall, on the Place d' Armes, is the Casino, a sort of assem- bly-room or club, the subscription to which amounts to 12 fr. for the season. It contains a ball-room 150 ft. long, where there is dancing 2 or 3 times a week. Beneath it are reading-rooms, provided with newspapers, coffee and billiard rooms. Max. Korniker, book- seller, has a shop at Ostend. An English consul (Mr. Curry) re- sides at Ostend; a British subject may obtain from him a passport, shordd he have neglected to provide himself with one in England. Outside the Bruges gate are the Oyster Parks [Huitrieres), salt-water reservoirs filled with oysters brought from Har- wich, Colchester, and elsewhere on the English coast, and fattened here. Another is near the Lighthouse. They are transported hence as far as Paris, under the name of Huitres d'Ostende. Steamers " to London and to Dover, see p. 119. Diligence daily to Calais, by Dunkirk, in 9 hrs. Railroad, see § 22, and Rte. 21. ROUTE 21. OSTEJTD TO BRUGES, GHEXT, TEEMOXDE, AND MECHLIX. — RAILROAD. Ostend to Bruges 22 kiloni.==13| m. ; Bruges to Ghent 45 kilom.=28I m. ; Ghent to Mechlin 56 kilom.=35 m. The country is rich in an agricultural point of view, but fiat, tame, and tire- some to other eyes than those of a far- mer, A Canal connects Ostend with Bruges, a fine broad sheet of water, 3 or 4 times wider than the narrow strips to which we are accustomed in England. In 1798 a detachment of English troops landed at the inouth of it and destroyed the sluices ; but the wind shifted before they could make good then retreat, and they were taken prisoners by the French. 7 Plasschendael Stat. The Dunkirk canal here joins that froin Ostend to Bruges. At Oudenburg are kitchen Belgium, ROUTE 21. — BRUGKS. CATHEDRAL. 121 gardens which supply Ostond with ve- getables. (5 Jabbeke Stat. 9 BRUGES Stat. £ hr. from Ostend. Bruges (Flem. Brugge). — Inns: II. dc Flandres, in the Rue Noordzand; table-d'hote at 1 ; the fish dinners on Fridays are renowned. — H. du Com- merce in the Rue St. Jacques ; fair and cheap. — Flour dc Ble. — Ours d'Or. This city, the Liverpool of the middle ages, which was rich and powerful when Antwerp and Ghent were only in their infancy, is now reduced to 49,437 inhab., of whom 15,000 are paupers. In the 14th cent, the commerce of the world may be said to have been con- centrated in it : Factories, or privileged companies of merchants, from 17 king- doms were settled here as agents ; 20 foreign ministers had hotels within its walls ; and natives of many distant countries, of which little was then known but their names, repaired hither annually. Early in the 13th cent. Bruges was made the staple place of the cities of the Hanseatic League, and of the English wool trade, and became the centre of resort for the Lombard and Venetian traders, who brought hither the manufactures of India and the pro- duce of Italy, to exchange them for the merchandise of Germany and the Baltic. Richly laden argosies from Venice, Ge- noa, and Constantinople, might, at the same time, be seen unloading in its harbour ; and its warehouses groaned beneath bales of wool from England, linen from Belgium, and silk from Persia. It stands on the little river Rege, formerly navigable, but now almost absorbed by canals. Bruges was long the residence of the Counts of Flanders ; but it reached the height of its splendour in the first part of the 15th cent., when the Dukes of Bur- gundy fixed their court here. At present it wears an air of deso- lation ; the people in its streets are few, and it has lost the indications of com- mercial activity. Its appearance is the more mournful from its great extent, and the size and unaltered splendour of many of the public buildings and pri- vate houses, — vestiges of its former wealth and prosperity. [N. G.] Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame! The season of her splendour is f;one hy, Yet everywhere its monuments remain : Temples which rear their stately heads on high, Canals that intersect the fertile plain — Wide streets and square3, with many a court and hall, Spacious and undefae'd — but ancient all. When I may read of tilts in days of old, Of tournays grae'd hy chieftains of renown, Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors bold — If fancy could portray some stately town, Which of such pomp fit theatre may be, Fair Bruges ! I shall then remember thee. South ey. It has still many objects of interest, which deserve at least a day to be de- voted to them. They may be conve- niently visited in the following order : — Start from the railroad station, close to which is a Capuchin convent, by the Rue Zuidzand, which leads to the Ca- thedral (rt.) ; thence to Notre Dame, which is at a short distance to the S.E. — on the W. of this is the Hospital of St. Jean ; thence, by the Dyvcr canal, through the fish-market, to the Hdtel de Ville, Palais de Justice, and Cha- pelle du S. Sang ; thence by the Rue Haute, Pont des Moulins, and Rue Molenmaersch, to the Jerusalem Church, beyond which, near the rampart, are the garden of St. Sebastian and Con- vent of English ladies ; return by Rue and Pont des Carmes to the Aoademie and the Grande Place. The Cathedral {St. Sameur), on the rt. side of the Staen street, leading from the railway into the town, is a Gothic building, externally of brick, and ugly ; but within, the handsomest church in Bruges (date after 1358). Of the pic- tures which it contains some are curious for their antiquity, and most as con- tributions to the history of Flemish art. Against the wall of the S. aisle hangs a small picture with shutters, representing the martyrdom of St. Hippolytus, who was torn in pieces by horses, by Bans Hemling. On the outside of the shut- ters are 4 saints in grey : inside, a crowned figure, and the donor and Lis wife, capital portraits. There is also a good picture of the Last Supper, with Abraham and Elijah in the centre and at the side, by Peter Porbus. There are several paintings by the brothers Van Oost. On either side of the altar is a fine marble tomb. In the Chopille G 122 ROUTE 21. — BRUGES. CHURCHES. HOSPITAL. Sect. II. des Corcloimiers, in the N. aisle, is a series of monumental Brasses built into the wall, interesting examples of early Flemish art in the 15th and 16th cen- turies. Notre Dame (Onze Vrouw) is a church surmounted by a tall brick tower, with stunted spire, less remark- able for its architecture than for the works of art to be found in it. The pulpit is one of those specimens of ela- borate carving in wood, so common in the churches of the Netherlands. In a chapel in the S. side of the Ch. is a statue of the Virgin and Child, said to be by Michael Angelo, and believed by Sir Joshua Reynolds to have certainly the air of his school. There is a grandeur about the upper part of the Virgin's figure, and in the turn of the head and in the features, which resemble some of M. Angelo' s works. The tradition in Bruges is, that a vessel which was con- veying it to England was lost on the neighbouring coast of Flanders. Ho- race Walpole is said to have offered 30,000 fl. for it. It was carried to Paris by the French. Beyond, in a chapel in the aisle S. of the choir, are the Tombs of Charles the Bold, Duke of Bur- gundy, and his daughter Mary, wife of the Empr. Maximilian, the last scions of the house of Burgundy, and the last native sovereigns of the Netherlands. The effigies of both father and daughter, made of copper, richly guilt, but not displaying any high excellence as works of art, repose at full length on slabs of black marble. Beneath and round the sides are coats of arms richly enamelled, " which record the string of duchies, counties, and lordships which this illus- trious and amiable heiress brought to the house of Austria, and which after- wards swelled the empire, on which the sun never set, of her grandson Charles V. The exquisite richness of the monu- ments, the historical interest attaching both to the father and daughter, and the affection of the Flemish for the memory of this young countess, who died when pregnant at the age of 25, by a fall from her horse, while hawking with her hus- band near Bruges, having long con- cealed, out of affection for him, the mortal injury she had received, render them objects worthy of considerable attention." The Duke wears a crown on his head, and is decorated with the order of the Golden Fleece. The Monument of Mary of Burgundy was erected in 1495, and is far superior to the other. In 1558 Philip II. be- spoke one exactly like it for his great- great-grandfather, Charles the Bold, and paid one Master Jonghelinck for it 14,000 fl., besides 40 fl. to each of the workmen as compensation for the loss of his teeth in the process of enamelling. During the French Ee volution these monuments were concealed, to preserve them from rapacity and Vandalism, by the beadle of the church, Pierre De- zutter, at the peril of his life, since a price of 2000 fr. was put upon his head in consequence of this good deed. Both monuments have been recently (finished in 1848) cleaned and regilt by a gold- smith of Bruges, M. Allard ; a charge of 50 cents per person is made for show- ing them. A wooden planking affixed to the railing of the chapel conceals them from view. A richly carved Gothic balcony, of the pew of the family of Gruthuyze, on the 1. of the high altar, and a painting in the style of John Mabuse (16th cent.), representing a Madonna (Mater Dolorosa) in the centre, with 7 scenes from the life of Christ round it, deserve to be looked at. The Crucifixion and the Last Supper, by Peter Porous, hang in the side aisles, and are among the finest works of that artist. In the Ch. of St. Jacques (close to the Hotel du Commerce), a handsome building, rich in altars and marbles, are some interesting monumental brasses of a Spanish family : observe one, dated 1577, to Don Francisco di Lapuebla and his lady, in the Chapel of Ste. Croix. They are worthy of notice, because few are now to be seen in Belgium. Close to Notre Dame is the Hospital of St. John, an ancient charitable insti- tution, where the sick are attended by the religious sisters of the house, whose duties resemble those of the Soeurs de la Charite. Portraits of some of the directors and superiors of the establish- ment hang in the Chapter House, which also contains the celebrated pictures, Belgium. route 21. — Bruges, pictures h. de ville. 123 the pride of the city and admiration of travellers, painted by Hans ffemling, or more correctly Memling, and presented by him to the hospital out of gratitude for the succour which he had received while a patient in it, suffering from wounds received in the battle of Nancy, 1477. The subject of one is the Virgin and Child, with St. Catherine ; and on the shutters the Decollation of St. John Baptist, and St. John Evangelist at Patmos : on the outside are several figures of saints. The artist never sur- passed, or even equalled, this great per- formance. The stiffness of the figures is usual in paintings of the period at which these were executed ; but the careful finish of the heads, — equal to that employed in the finest miniatures, — the exquisite character which they discover, and the beauty and vividness of the colouring, are rare and truly ad- mirable. They were executed in 1479, and bear his name. There is another small altarpiece by ffernling, also with wings : the principal subject is the Adoration of the Magi ; at the sides are the Nativity and the Purification in the Temple. Besides these there are two heads by ffemling ; also a Crucifixion by Franks, and a Holy Family said to be by Vandyk. Another not less interesting object is the Reliquary or Chasse de St. JJr- sule, a wooden coffer for holding the ami of the saint, painted by Hem- ling. On each side of the cover are 3 medallions, the smaller of which con- tain angels playing instruments, the larger a coronation of the Virgin and the glorification of St. Ursula. On one gable end is the Virgin and Child, on the other St. Ursula. On the long sides are subjects from the legend of St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins at Cologne. St. Ursula was the daughter of an English king ; with a train of 11,000 virgins, her lover Conan, and an escort of knights, she made a pilgrimage to Rome. On their return they all suf- fered martyrdom at Cologne. The paintings are executed with the most delicate finish. 1. In the first, repre- senting the landing at Cologne, the tra- veller will recognise the cathedral, churches, and other buildings of that city, copied with considerable fidelity. 2. The landing at Cologne. 3. The arrival at Rome ; the Pope receives the pilgrims. 4. Return to Basle, and re- embarkation on the Rhino. 5 & 6 form one picture, the groups and background being continued from one to the other — the martyrdom of Conan and of St. Ursula in the camp of the Emperor Maximin, on the banks of the Rhine. u These little pictures, are among the very best productions of the Flemish school. The drawing in these small figures is much more beautiful than in the larger ones by the same master. There is nothing in them meagre, stiff, or angular : the movements are free ; the execution and tone of colour, with all its softness, very powerful ; the ex- pression in the single heads of the highest excellence." — Kugler. The large hall, divided by partitions into wards and dormitories, and kitchen for the use of the patients, is interesting for its cleanliness and good order, and, above all, for its antiquity. It is a Gothic hall, with rows of pointed arches on piers dividing it into aisles, and, probably, has undergone no change since the day when Hemling was re- ceived into it. Admission is given at any time except when service is going on in the church. The Hotel de Ville is an elegant Gothic structure, though of small di- mensions, built in 1377. The niches in front were decorated with curious sta- tues of the Counts of Flanders ; but on the arrival of the French revolutionary army, in 1792, all these "representa- tions of tyrants " were pulled down, broken, and burnt in the great square in a bonfire, the materials of which were composed of the gallows, the scaffold, and the wheel. At a window or balcony in front of the building the Counts of Flanders presented them- selves to the citizens after their acces- sion, and took the oaths, promising to obey the laws and maintain the privi- leges of the town. The Public Library (open 10-3) is now placed in the Grand Hall, extending nearly the whole length of the building, aud is remark- able for its Gothic roof of wood. It is well furnished in the departments of G 2 124 ROUTE 21. BRUGES. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. II. French and Flemish, literature, and contains a few curious MSS. Among other curiosities is a Missal of the 14th cent., and the scheme of a lottery drawn at Bruges in 1445 — an earlier date than is usually given to the inven- tion of lotteries, which renders it pro- bable that they originated in Flanders, and not in Italy, as is commonly be- lieved. Adjoining the H. de Ville is the Palais de Justice, anciently called Palais du Franc de Bruges (the liberty of Bruges, an extensive district independent of the town) . The back view of this building, toward the Fish-market, is curious. The Council Chamber of the magistrates is particularly deserving of notice : it is antique, though the rest of the building dates from 1722. It contains a mag- nificent chimney-piece, occupying one side of the room, carved in wood (date 1529), including statues as large as life, and well executed, of Charles V., Mary of Burgundy and Maximilian, Charles the Bold and Margaret of York, his third wife, surrounded with coats of arms of Burgundy, Spain, &c. It is also decorated with marble bas-reliefs representing the story of Susannah. There is a Gothic chapel in the corner of the square at the opposite end of the Town House, on the site of the 1st dwelling of the Counts of Flanders, and called La Chapelle du Sang de Dieu, from some drops of our Saviour's blood, brought by Count Thierry of Alsace from the Holy Land, and presented by him to the town, and now deposited in a richly jewelled and enamelled shrine of silver gilt, executed in 1617 by Jean Crabbe. This is to be seen in the upper chapel, where is a pulpit with medallions carved in wood. The inte- rior has been recently restored, and is not worth seeing. Admission by tariff, 50 cents. The exterior of the staircase leading to the chapel is in a florid Gothic, and dates from 1533. The crypt, called the Chapel of St. John, is the oldest building in Bruges, perhaps of the 9th cent. John Van Eyck, the painter, who died at Bruges, 1441, was buried in the former cathedral of St. Donatus, demo- lished by the French, which stood op- posite the Hotel de Ville. Its site is now planted with trees, among which stands a vile clumsy statue of Van Eyck, being a painted plaster cast of the marble statue in the Academy, executed by Calloigne, 1775-1830, a native of Bruges, and director of the Academy. The Jerusalem Ch., in a very re- mote part of the town, is only re- markable on account of a copy of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem contained in it, from which it gets its name. It is a fac-simile of the interior of the tomb, and it is recorded that the founder of the chapel, a burgomaster of Bruges, Pierre Adorner, who is buried here, with his wife, made 3 journeys to the Holy Land to perfect the resem- blance. There is an English nunnery here ; it was founded more than a cent, ago, for 40 nuns, natives of England and Ireland. The chapel is much admired. Strangers are admitted to hear the ser- vice, which is exquisitely chanted by the nuns. The Academy of Painting, in the Gothic building called Het Poorters Huis, originally the factory of the Biscayans, Academie Plaets, contains some fine old paintings. The most re- markable are, — by J. Van Eyck :■ — 1 . The Virgin and Child, with St. George and St. Donatus ; the donor on his knees, holding a pair of spectacles ; date 1436. " It has great character of nature, and is very minutely finished, though the painter was 66 years old when it was done." 2. A- portrait of his wife is painted in a very superior style, and deserves minute attention. 3. A head of Christ, with the date 1440. The second figure 4 has been partly erased, so as to look like 2, which has given rise to the erroneous assertion that this was the first picture painted by this artist with oil colours, (f 25.) Hans Hemling : — An altar-piece with folding-doors ; in the centre the Bap- tism of Christ ; on the wings portraits of the donor of the picture, his wife and family ; and on the outside the Virgin and Child. This is a beautiful painting, remarkable especially for the sweet ex- pression of some of the countenances, and their elaborate finish. It was Belgium. ROUTE 21. — BRUGES. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 125 formerly in the Town-house. Another altar-piece hy the same master, but inferior to the preceding, represents St. Christopher with the infant Jesus on his shoulders. The portraits of the donors of this picture, and their family, are very fine. 3 or 4 other pictures shown here are attributed to Hemling, but their genuineness is doubted ; at all events, they are far below the others in excellence. Not undeserving of notice are 2 portraits of a burgess of Bruges and his wife (1554), and 2 Last Judg- ments, by Porbvs the elder ; and the Judgment of Cambyses, 2 subjects, by Ant. Claessens the elder. On one side of the The Grande Place stands Les Halles, a large building (date 1364), one wing of which was intended to be a cloth-hall ; the other is occupied as a flesh-market. The tower or belfry in its centre is an elegant Gothic structure, imposing from its height. The view from its top is, as may be supposed, extensive ; it com- mands the roofs of the city, and a sort of map-like panorama of the sur- rounding country. The Chimes (§ 26) from this tower are the finest in Eu- rope, and almost incessant : they are played 4 times an hour by machinery, which may be seen near the top of the tower. It consists of an enormous brass cylinder, acting like the barrel of an organ, and setting in motion the keys of the instrument ; but on Sun- days, from 11| to 12, the chimes are played by a musician. On the S. side of the square, at the corner of the Rue St. Amand, is the house inhabited by Charles II. during his exile from Eng- land. It bears the sign " Au Lion Beige." Even in his banishment he was not without a regal title, for the Burghers of Bruges elected him " King of the Company of Crossbowmen." (Roi des Arbaletriers.) An Estaminet, in the opposite corner of the Rue St. Amand, now occupies the site of the Craenenburg, historically remarkable as having been the prison of the Empr. Maximilian, 1487-8, when his unruly Flemish subjects, irri- tated at some infringement of their rights, rose up against him, seized his person, and shut him up in this building, which they had fortified, and converted into a prison by barring the windows. For several weeks he remained in close confinement, and the citizens kept watch and ward over him. The Pope menaced them with excommunication, and the armies of the Empire were put in march against them. Nevertheless, Maxi- milian was not released until he had sworn upon his knees, before an altar erected in the middle of this square, in presence of magistrates, corporation, and people, to resign his claims to the guardianship of his son, to respect the liberties of Bruges, and to grant a general amnesty for past offences against his person and government. He ratified this treaty by the most solemn oaths on the sacrament, the relics of St. Donatus, and a fragment of the true cross, in spite of which he broke it a few weeks after. The Prinssenhof — the ancient palace of the Counts of Flanders, in which the marriage of Charles the Bold with Margaret of York, sister of Edward IV., was celebrated in 1468, and where Philip le Bel, father of Charles V., was born — is reduced to a few fragments of ruined wall included in a private house, but retains the old name ; it is near the Rue Noordzand. The Hall of the Serge-makers' Guild (date 1383), with a bas-relief of St. George and the Dragon over the door ; the house of the English Merchants' Com- pany, in which Caxton is said to have resided while learning the art of print- ing ; the house of Count Egmont, a few paces from the H. du Commerce, are buildings interesting from age, archi- tecture, or associations. The Be'guinage, or Convent of Beguine Nuns, near the western extremity of the town, is inferior in extent to the one at Ghent ; but travellers ought to visit one or other of these interesting esta- blishments. The Archers' Guilds deserve notice ; in the hall of the Fraternity of St. Se- bastian or the cross-bowmen is a bust of our Charles II., and a portrait of his brother the D. of Gloucester. From the tower in the archery ground there is a good view of Bruges, Service is performed on Sundays in an English Protestant Church. 126 ROUTE 21. BRUGES TO GHENT. Sect, II. The Ramparts, extending all round the town, are an agreeable walk. The principal manufacture carried on in the town is that of lace ; but even it is much fallen of. In the three Latin lines already quoted, § 25, this town is said to be famed for pretty girls. Bruges has not lost its reputation in this respect ; and many a fair face and pair of black eyes will be met with peeping out from under the black hood of the mantle, called faille, which is generally worn by the females of the lower orders, or sur- rounded by the primly plaited frills of a lace cap. The invention of decimal arithmetic has been attributed to Simon Stevin, of Bruges. He was one of the best mathe- maticians of his age ; he recommended, but did not invent, decimal arithmetic. He is the inventor of what is now called Bramah's press. There is a heavy, ill- draped statue of him in the Place de Simon Stevin. The famous order of the Golden Fleece was established by Philip the Good, in 1430, at Bruges. In the symbol of this institution he paid a just compliment to the skill of the weavers of Flanders, who, by the per- fection to which they had brought the manufacture of wool, had mainly contri- buted to the rapid advancement in prosperity of this country during the middle ages. The fleece, therefore, was very appropriately chosen as an emblem of the power and splendour of the rulers of Flanders. During the discon- tents which broke out in Belgium in the 14th cent., Edward III. invited many Flemings to England, who brought over with them the art of manufacturing the finer woollen cloths, previously unknown, and by their as- sistance we soon surpassed those of Flanders in excellence. Six canals concentrate at Bruges, from Ghent, Sluis (Ecluse, the port of Bruges), Meuport, Fumes, Ypres, and Ostend. Damme, now a small village, about 3 m. on the Sluis road, is said to have been the port of Bruges, flourishing chiefly about 1200; tales are told of basins holding 1000 sail, where now is a fertile plain. At Damme is a fine church, partly in ruins, built early in the 13th cent. ; the tombstones forming the pavement of the nave are beauti- fully carved. BRUGES TO GHENT. (45 kilom. = 281 m.) Trains in 1 hr. The Railway Station at Bruges is on the Vrijdags Markt. The Grand Canal between Bruges and Ghent is bounded by high banks on each side, and for the greater part of the distance is lined with tall trees, en- livened by occasional villas and neat gardens. " Europe can boast no richer, goodlier scene, By fertile fields and fruitful gardens green." Dante {Infer, xv. 4-6) compares the embankment, which separated the River of Tears from the sandy desert, with that which the Flemings have thrown up between Ghent and Bruges against the assaults of the sea : — " Quale i Fiamminghi tra Guzzante e Bruggia, Temendo '1 fiotto che inver lor s'avventa, Fanno lo schermo, perche '1 mar si fuggia." The Railroad is carried a little to the S. of the canal. 12 Bloemendael Stat. 10 Aeltre Stat. 7 Hansbeke Stat. 3 Landeghem Stat. 13 Ghent Stat., on the S.E. side of the town, which stands principally on the rising ground beyond the station. The trains leave the station by the same rails on which they enter it. On the high ground to the 1., on arriving, and on the other side of the Schelde, is the new Citadel; the church on the hill, with a dome, is St. Pierre. Ghent (French, Gand ; Flem. Gend ; Germ. Gent). — Inns: H. Royal; Poste — both on the Kauter or Place d'Annes ; H. de Flandre, clean and quiet. 2nd Class : Paradis ; Lion d'Or ; H. des Pays-Bas, Marche aivx Grains, very comfortable, but small. Ghent lies upon the rivers Schelde and Lys, whose numerous branches, traversing the town, form canals in all directions : it has 103,729 inhab. In the time of Charles Y. this was, per- Belgium, ROUTE 21. GHENT. 127 haps, the largest and most populous city of Europe. It contained 35,000 houses and 175,000 inliah. ; and that emperor used sportively to say that he could put all Paris into his glove (gant). The circumference of its walls at the present day measures between 7 and 8 m. In the 10th cent, it was the capital of Flanders, but in process of time the turbulent weavers, among whom a spirit of independence had early begun to work, rose up against their feudal su- periors, and threw oft* their yoke, or obtained from them concessions and immunities which formed the origin of popular rights in Europe. At length its burghers became so bold and warlike, that they were able to repulse from their walls "24,000 English, commanded by Edward I., in 1297 ; and contributed to beat the elite of the French chivalry at Courtray, in the " Battle of Spurs." Their allegiance, both to the Counts of Flanders and Dukes of Burgundy, seems to have been little more than nominal ; since, whenever these seigneurs at- tempted to impose a tax which was un- popular, the great bell sounded the alarm, the citizens flew to arms, and slew or expelled from the town the officers appointed by their sovereign. It did not take long to equip an armament of burghers and artisans, who had weapons always at hand, and who re- paired to the scene of action in their every-day or working dress, only dis- tinguished by a badge, such as a white sleeve worn over it, or a white hood. Thus it happened that popular tumults were as frequent in the 14th and 15th cent, in Ghent as they have been in Paris in the 10 th, and rather more difficult to quell. On the other hand, it not unfrcquently happened that the seigneur, aroused by some act of atro- city or insubordination, collected his forces together, and took signal and terrible vengeance. These courageous but undisciplined citizens then atoned for their a\idacity on the field of battle, being moved down in thousands. After- wards cnine the season of retribution and humiliation for the town: enor- mous subsidies were levied on it; its dearest privileges were confiscated ; and its most honoured citizens and magis- trates were condemned to march out of the gates in their shirts, with halters round their necks, and to kiss the dust before the feet of their imperious lord and conqueror. The city of Ghent was several times forced to make such an abject and ludicrous act of submission. The immediate cause of its decline and ruin may be traced to this spirit of re- volt. The citizens, " intoxicated with the extent of their riches and the ful- ness of their freedom," engaged in a contest with their sovereign, Philip the Good. It is no little proof of their vast resources that they were able to main- tain it from 1448 to 1453 ; but in the end they were compelled to submit, with abject humiliation, heavy fines, and loss of trade. In 1400 the city of Ghent is said to have contained 80,000 men capable of bearing arms. The number of weavers then amounted to 40,000, and they alone could furnish 18,000 fighting men out of their corporation. A cus- tom derived from that period still exists in the town : — a bell was rung at morn- ing, noon, and evening, to summon the weavers to their work and meals : while it tolled, the drawbridges over the canals could not be raised for the pas- sage of vessels ; and other persons were even enjoined not to go out into the streets, for fear of interrupting the vast stream of population ; while children were carefully kept within doors, lest thej'" should be trodden under foot by the passing multitude. Though fallen from its high estate, it does not display the same signs of decay and listlcssness as Bruges : it is still the Belgic Manchester. In 1804, while united to France, it was ranked by Napoleon as the third manufactiuing town in his dominions, — after Lyons and Rouen. The Revolution of 1830, however, inflicted another vital blow on its prosperity. Several considerable manufactures are, however, carried on here, especially that of cotton. In 1801 a clever Fleming, named Lieven Baucns, brought over from Manchester English workmen and spinning jennies. The manufacture quickly took root, so as to employ in a few yean more than 30,000 workmen. 00 steam-engines 128 ROUTE 21.— GHENT. BEFFROI. CATHEDEAL. Sect. II. were employed, not long ago, in the town and neighbourhood to set in mo- tion the machinery of the various cot- ton-mills. But since the Revolution many have ceased to work, and several proprietors have removed their esta- blishments to Holland. The picturesqueness of the houses of Ghent, the fantastic variety of gable ends rising stepwise, or ornamented with scrolls and carving, arrest the stranger's eye at every turn. (See § 25.) Among the chief buildings — The Beffroi — Belfry Tower — is one of the most ancient in the town, dating from 1183. One of the earliest privi- leges which the citizens obtained from their feudal lords was to be allowed to build a belfry, and they long regarded it as a kind of monument of their power and wealth. It originally served as a watch-tower, from which the ap- proach of an enemy might be descried, and it contained the tocsin-bell, by the tolling of which the citizens were called together to arms or to debate. One of the bells still bears this inscription : — " Mynen naem is Roelant, als ick clippe dan ist brandt ; als ick luyde, dan ist Storm im Vlaenderlandt." The Gilt Dragon on the top, which the Gantois carried off from Bruges in the wars of the 14th cent., as a trophy of their conquest of that town under the gene- ralship of Philip Van Artevelde, has been re-gilt 1851. It originallv decorated one of the Greek churches in Constan- tinople, and was brought from thence by the men of Bruges who went on the first crusade as soldiers of Baldwin Count of Flanders. The charters, title- deeds, and records of Ghent were ori- ginally deposited in the lower part of the building ; it now serves as a prison. The view from the top is certainly far more striking than that from the great tower at Bruges ; the watch- maker, through whose shop, at its base, the entrance lies, exacts 2 francs for admission. Charles V., when recommended by the cruel Alva to raze to the ground this town, whose rebellion had given him so much trouble, took him to the top of the Beffroi, and, showing him the vast city spread out beneath, asked, " Combien il fallait de peaux d'Espagne pour faire un gant de cette grandeur ?" — How many skins of Spanish leather would it take to make such a glove ? — thus rebuking the atrocious suggestion of his minister. It is, indeed, an interesting prospect ; the number of the squares, and width of the streets, admit the eye to range over something more than mere roofs of houses. Besides the towers and steeples of many churches, and the im- posing mass of the Town Hall close at hand, in the distance may be perceived the site and ruined walls of the Citadel, built by Charles V. to overawe the citi- zens. Beyond this, if we continue the survey, is the Great Beguinage, with its streets and squares ; and, following the line of ramparts, still further to the left, near the Promenade of the Coupure, the Maison de Force, a vast building, resembling a wheel in its ground plan, with the steeple of the prison church rising in the centre. The Cathedral of St. Bawm (Flem. St. Baefs), though somewhat heavy exter- nally, is one of the most handsome in its internal proportions and splendid in its decorations of all the churches in Belgium. It was founded in 944, the choir and crypt were rebuilt in 1228, and the whole was finished in the be- ginning of the 16th cent. The choir and transepts are lined with black mar- ble ; the balustrades are of white or variegated marble, a species of decora- tion which, though splendid, yet, being in the Grecian style, by no means befits a Gothic church : the gates of the cha- pels are of brass, and statues and paint- ings ornament every vacant space. Over the choir, at a considerable elevation, are affixed the arms of the knights of the Golden Fleece. The last (23rd) chapter of the order was held in this church by Philip II. of Spain, 1559. The pulpit was carved by Delveaux, an artist of Ghent. The high altar itself is a remarkable object, bearing the statue of St. Bavon, in his ducal dress, by Yerbruggen. In front of it are 4 tall copper candlesticks, remarkable as having belonged to King Charles I. It is supposed that they may have adorned the chapel of White- BeJijiam. ROUTE 21. — GHENT. CATHEDRAL. PICTURES. 129 hall, or St. Paul's church, and that they were sold and sent out of England in the Protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. They still hear the arms of England. On each side of the choir, near the altar, are handsome monuments, with statues of 4 bishops of Ghent. The finest is that of Bp. Van Triest, by Duquesnoy. The 24 chapels in the side aisles and round the choir contain pictures, which ore here enumerated in order, begin- ning with that on the rt. hand as you enter the west door ; those in the 5th, 10th, 13th, and 14th chapels arc pro- ductions of first-rate excellence, which deserve attentive consideration. In the first chapel on the rt. is a painting by 67. de Grayer — The Behead- ing of St. John. 2. Paelinck — St. Colette receiving a Grant from the Magistrates of Ghent to establish a Convent. 3. Cancer — St. John baptiz- ing Christ. 4. Jangens — Our Saviour's Body in the Lap of the Virgin. 5. The first chapel in the upper church behind the choir : Francis JPorbus — Jesus in the midst of the Doctors : most of the faces are portraits; among them Charles V. and Philip II. may be distinguished : it is a beautiful painting, but in a bad light. 6. G. de Craijer — Martyrdom of St. Barbe. 7. Vander Meiren (a pupil of Van Eyck) — Christ between the Two Thieves. 8. Vander Heuvel — The Woman taken in Adultery. In the 10th chapel or 6th beyond the transept is one of the finest works ever produced by the early Flemish school — the mas- terpiece of the brothers Hubert and John Van Eyck (date 1432), celebrated all over Europe. The subject is the Adoration of the spotless Lamb. In the centre is seen the Lamb as described in the Revelations, surrounded by an- gels, and approached by worshippers in 4 groups : on the rt. (of the spectator), above, the holy virgins and female saints ; below, the apostles and saints of the New Testament : on the 1. above, the bishops and founders of monastic orders, while below appear the pat- riarchs and prophets of the Old Testa- ment (W.J.F.) ; while in the horizon rise the Towers of the New Jerusalem, copied from some old Flemish town. Two of the figures in the rt. hand corner of the picture represent the brothers Van Eyck. More than 300 heads may be counted in this won- derful production, all finished with the most scrupulous minuteness. The upper part of the picture contains, in three compartments, the figures of God the Father, with John the Baptist on the one side, and the Virgin on the other. The beauty and grace of her countenance are only surpassed, pro- bably, by some of the Madonnas of Raphael. Considering the period when it was painted, this picture is remarkably free from the stiffness of the early school : the finish of the faces is most elaborate, and the strength and freshness of the colours in a painting 400 years old is truly wonderful. Sir Joshua says, " The figures arc painted in a hard manner, but there is great character of truth and nature in the heads, and the landscape is well coloured." Two pairs of shutters or folding doors below, and two above, painted within and without, also by the Van Eycks, originally formed part of this picture. The whole was taken to Paris by Na- poleon, but the centre portions alone have been restored. The 6 most im- portant of the wings are now in the Royal Museum at Berlin, having been originally bought by a picture-dealer for 6000 fir. (250/.), and afterwards sold for at least 10 times that sum to the King of Prussia. The 2 exterior lower wings are said to be still in the possession of the chapter, but are shut up from motives of false delicacy, be- cause they represent Adam and Eve in a state of nature. 11. 67. Honikorst — The Descent from the Cross ; and, at the side, 67. Crayer % the Crucifixion. 12. N, Hvose— The Virgin, surrounded by Angels ; on the rt. is the monument of Bp. Van dor Noot, who is kneeling before the Virgin ; opposite is the monument of another bishop, who is represented meditating on the scourging of om* Lord. 18 contains a masterpiece of Rubens, but not well preserved — St. Bavon renounc- ing the profession of a Soldier to enter the Convent of St. Amand as a Monk, g3 130 KOUTE 21. — GHENT. CHURCHES. UNIVERSITY, Sect. II. The figure of the saint is said to be a portrait of the artist himself. " This picture was formerly the orna- ment of the high altar of this cathedral, but was displaced to make room for an ordinary piece of sculpture." When Rubens was thus degraded, one may conclude his fame was then not estab- lished: he had not been dead long enough to be canonised, as he may be said to be at present. The saint is re- presented in the upper part of the pic- ture, in armour, kneeling, received by a priest at the door of a church : below is a man, who may be supposed to be his steward, giving money to the poor. Two women are standing by, dressed in the fashion of the times when Rubens lived : one of them appears to be pulling off a chain, which falls from her neck, as if she intended to follow the example before her. This picture, for composi- tion, colouring, richness of effect, and all those qualities in which Rubens more particularly excelled, claims a rank among his greatest and best works." — R. It was also carried to the Louvre. 14. Otto Vennius — The Resurrection of Lazarus ; very good. 15. Seghers — Martyrdom of St. Lieven. 16. A copy from Rubens — The Martyrdom of St. Catherine. 17. Opposite this chapel is the monument of Bishop Van Eersel. 18. M. Goexie — The Seven "Works of Mercy. Descending again into the lower church, we reach the 20th chapel. Here stands the brazen font at which Charles V. was baptized. 20. G. Grayer — Assumption of the Virgin. 21. G. Grayer — St. Macarius praying for those afflicted with the Plague, whilst he is himself struck by the Pestilence ; a good picture. 22. Huff el — St. Lambert car- rying coals on his Surplice to set fire to the Incense. 23. Rombouts —The De- scent from the Cross. Under the choir is a low subter- ranean chapel, in one corner of which lie buried Hubert Van Eyck and his sister, also a painter, who may be said to have been literally wedded to the art, since she rejected all offers of mar- riage in order to devote herself to it. This Crypt is reputed very ancient, but a large proportion of the low stumpy pillars are probably of the same age as the upper structure, and added as sup- ports to it. St. Bavon suffered material injury from the fanatic depredations of the iconoclasts in 1566 ; 400 of the lowest class of the people, entering the church by night, commenced by torch- light the work of demolition, dashing the images and painted glass to pieces with their pole-axes, effacing the rich sculpture, and cutting the pictures to shreds. Within 3 or 4 days every church in Ghent shared a like fate. Philip II.' s vengeance, thus aroused, brought upon Belgium the curse of the Inquisition and the scourge of an Alva: — confiscation, exile, or death, were the consequences. In the Church of St. Michael " is, or rather was, the celebrated Crucifixion of Vandyk, for it is almost destroyed by cleaning. It appears, by what remains, to have been one of his most capital works. Vandyk has here introduced a most beautiful horse in an attitude of the utmost grace and dignity. This is the same horse on which he drew Charles V., which is in the gallery at Florence ; the head of the emperor he copied from Titian." — R. The picture has been so much injured and repainted that its original merits can hardly be determined. It stands in the X. tran- sept, with a curtain before it. Next to it is a modern picture by a Belgian, representing the finding of the Cross by the Empress Helena, whose figure is a portrait of the Empress Josephine. There are numerous paintings by mo- dern Belgian artists in this church. The pulpit of carved mahogany, with a bas-relief of the Ascension, deserves notice. The most ancient church in the town is that of St. Nicholas, though much altered by repairs, conflagrations, &c. No other churches in Ghent are of equal interest with the foregoing, either in their architecture, or the pictures they contain. The University is a truly handsome modern edifice, with a noble Corinthian portico, copied from the Pantheon at Rome, built partly on the site of a college of Jesuits. It was founded by William I., King of Holland, in 1826. The entrance-hall, the staircase, and Belgium. route 21.— ghent. 11. de ville. MARKET. tin; amphitheatre, where academic meetings are held and the prizes are distributed, are very fine, exhibiting great taste, and reflecting the highest eredit on the architect, M. Roelandts. The Museum of natural history is of considerable extent, without any claim to great superiority for its collections. The library amounts to 60,000 volumes. The number of students is about 350. The entrance is behind, in the Rue Longuc des Marais. The Hotel de Ville, not far • from the Belfry, has two facades in totally dif- ferent styles of architecture : having been built at intervals between 1482 and 1620, according to 3 or 4 different plans, by as many architects : — one is "a florid mixture of French flam- boyant and English Tudor Gothic : the flat pointed arches are quite in the English pattern." — F. S. The elegant turret or tribune at the corner, with the part adjoining, in the richest flamboy- ant Gothic, is by Eustace Polleyt, 1527-1560; the other facade (1600-20), facing the Marche au Beurre, has columns of 3 different orders one above another. The Congress of Confederates, who assembled in 1576 to expel the Spaniards from Belgium, signed the treaty known in history as the Pacifi- cation, of Ghent in the Salle du Tronc. The interior of the building contains one or two modern paintings, but is not entitled to very great admiration. The Cabinet of M. von Saceghem con- tains some very superior old paintings. The Museum or Academy, Rue St. Marguerite (entrance at the side of the Augustine Church, admission at all hours with a fee), has" no good pic- tures. These are the best : Rubens — St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, or 5 holy wounds ; formerly in the Church of Recollets, where Sir J. R. saw it. He says of the figure of St. Francis, that it is " without dignity, and more he ought surely to be represented with like a beggar; though his dress is mean, the dignity and simplicity of a saint. Upon the whole, Rubens woidd ap- pear to no great advantage in Ghent, if it was not for the pieture in St. Bavon."— 21. The Last Judgment. M. Coxie — The Emperor Charles V. land- 131 ing in Africa. — Francis I., made pri- soner at Pavia, yields up his sword to De Lannoy, a Flemish knight. — Rough sketches executed with great boldness, and made by Gaspar de Crayer to decorate the arch of triumph, erected on the occasion of the visit of the Infant Ferdinand to Ghent. /. Jordaeus — The Woman taken in Adultery. T. Duchatel — The Installation of the Em- peror Charles VI., 1668, as Count of Flanders, in the Marche au Vcndrcdi. A great number of figures in the manner of Teniers. A great part of the collec- tion consists of modern pictures. The Marche au Veiulredi (Vrijdags Markt) is a large square surrounded by ancient houses, named from the day on which the market is held in it. The ceremonies of the inauguration of the Counts of Flanders were celebrated on this spot w r ith a pomp and splendour hardly to be conceived at present. Here also was the rendezvous of the " Trades Unions" of the middle ages, whenever a real or supposed breach of the privileges of their guilds or corpo- rations on the parts of their rulers ex- cited these turbulent spirits, " ces tetes dures de Flandres," to rebellion. Here their standards were planted, around which they rallied in arms. On this spot, Jacques van Artevelde, descended from one of the noblest families of Flanders, but called the Brewer of Ghent, because he had enrolled himself in the corporation of brewers to flatter the popular vanity by ranking himself among the people, at the head of his partisans, chiefly weavers, encountered the opposite faction of fullers, in a civic broil, with such bloodthirsty fmy, that the presence of the host, which was brought out upon the spot to separate the combatants, w r as disregarded, and 1500 corpses of citizens slain by fellow- citizens were left on the square. The day w T as afterwards marked in the annals of the town as Evil Monday. It was in this place, 40 years after, that Jacques's son, Philip van Artevelde, was saluted Ruwacrt or Protecter of Ghent, and received (1381) the oath of fidelity from his townsmen, when called upon to lead them against their oppressor, Louis de Male. The story 132 KOUTE 21. GHENT. VAN ARTEVELDE. Sect. II. of Van Artevelde is told in Henry Taylor's drama. In the Marche au Vendredi, also, at a later period, under the Duke of Alva, were lighted the fires of the Inquisi- tion. Many thousands perished during those religious persecutions, which dis- persed the best and most industrious citizens of Ghent over other lands, and struck a fatal blow at her commercial prosperity. — In a street close to the Marche, called the Mannekens Aert, is an enormous cannon, one of the largest in existence, being 18 ft. long and 10i in circumference, named De dulle Griete, or Mad Margery ; it is of hammered iron, was made in the days of Philip le Bon, and used by the Gantois at the siege of Oudenarde, 1382, and again in 1452. In the Place St. Pharailde, near the Marche . aux Poissons, still stands the old turreted gateway, called the Oucle- burg, or 's Gravenstcen, the Count's Stone (i. e. castle), a relic of the castle of the Counts of Flanders, built by Baldwin Bras de Fcr, 868. The small portion that remains of the building, consisting of an old archway and turret, is now incorporated in a cotton factory. The area within is occupied by houses of the meanest kind. It deserves to be visited, however, as one of the oldest existing buildings in Belgium, and the interior contains some curious vestiges of its ancient origin. In the years 1338-9 it was the residence of Edward III. and his family ; and his Queen Philippa here gave birth to a son, who was called, from his birth-place, John of Gaunt. An intimate alliance ex- isted for many years between the men of Ghent, or Gaunt, and the English, particularly during the reigns of the Edwards. The Flemings were deeply interested in procming om wool for their cloths ; the English sovereigns, on the other hand, were glad to secure "the good towns" and weavers of Flanders as allies to assist them in their designs upon the crown of France, and threatened to prohibit the exporta- tion of wool when the men of Gaunt opposed their wishes, or refused to em- brace their cause. Jacques van Artevelde, the Brewer of Ghent, was a faithful ally of Edward III., who used familiarly to call him " his dear gossip ;" and the Queen Philippa stood godmother to his son Philip. It was at his suggestion that Edward assumed the title of King of France, and quartered the fleurs de lis with the arms of England, from which they were not removed till the end of the last cent. The English connection was in the end fatal to Jacques, and led to his being killed by the citizens whom he had so often led as easily as sheep, by his talents, courage, and eloquence. In 1344 Edward III. crossed over to Sluis at the invitation of Jacques, who, relying on his influ- ence with the citizens, had promised to make him lord and heritor of Flanders, But this proposal was distasteful to the men of Ghent, who were unwilling to disinherit their natural lord ; and, dur- ing Van Artevelde' s absence to confer with Edward, the popular discontent against him, increased by rumours that, during his administration of the affairs of Flanders, he had secretly sent large sums of money out of the country to England, was excited in a high degree, and " set them of Gaunt on &:Q. ,, " As he rode into the town about noon, they of the town knew of his coming, and many were assembled together in the street where he should pass, and when they saw him they began to murmur, and to run together their heads in one hood, and said, ' Behold yonder great master who will order all Flanders after his pleasure, the which is not to be suffered.' As he rode through the street he perceived that there was some new matter against him, for he saw such as were wont to make reverence to him as he came by turn their backs towards him and enter into their houses. Then he began to doubt, and as soon as he was alighted in his lodg- ing he closed fast his doors, gates, and windows. This was scant done but all the street was full of men, and espe- cially those of the small crafts, who assailed his house both behind and be- fore." Though stoutly resisted, their numbers prevailed. Artevelde in vain addressed them from an upper window ; the eloquent tongue was now little heeded in the frenzy of popular excite- Belgium. ROUTE 21.— GHENT. CHARLES V. 133 merit. " When Jacques saw that he could not appease them, he drew in his head and closed the window, and so thought to steal out on the backside into a church that joined his house, but it was so broken that 400 persons were entered in, and finally there he was taken and slain without mercy, and one Thomas Denys gave him his death stroke." — Froissart. A metal shield on the balcony of a house near the cor- ner of the Place du Calendre marks the scene of his murder. Van Artevelde's house was situated in the Padden Hoek (Toad's Corner). Many military and commercial treaties were made with the English by both the Arteveldes : they aided each other with troops on land and ships at sea ; and the connection between the two countries was not finally broken off until the time of Philip the Bold. The marriage of the Grand Duke Maximilian with Mary of Burgundy, heiress of Charles the Bold, was cele- brated at Ghent 1477. By this alliance the Low Countries were added to the Austrian dominions. A short time be- fore it took place the famous Oliver the Barber, called Le Diable, was despatched by his master, Louis XL, to obtain the hand of Mary for his son, or, failing in this, to stir up rebellion among the men of Ghent. His mission failed, his in- trigues were frustrated, and he was dis- missed with disgrace, after having im- prudently demanded a private audience with the princess, which her council of state refused, alleging the laws of eti- quette, and even of decency, forbade such an interview with " cette jeune demoiselle qui etoit a marier." The Empr. Charles V. was born at Ghent, in the palace now pulled down, but its site is marked by a street named after it, Cour des Princes. It is related that he first saw the light in a water- closet, which ignoble birth-place was afterwards handsomely furnished and transformed into a splendid apartment. The turbulence and sedition of his sub- jects and fellow-citizens of Ghent re- peatedly gave annoyance to Charles, till at length a more formidable insurrec- tion broke out, which, spreading through Flanders, threatened to sever the pro- vince from his dominions. It originated in the discontent caused by his demand of an enormous subsidy from the citizens to carry on the war against France, which was soon fomented into open rebellion. Having put the town into a state of defence, they secretly tendered their allegiance to Francis I, He, how- ever, not only declined the offer, but very treacherously disclosed the secret to the Emperor. Charles was in Spain, but no sooner did this intelligence reach his ears than he decided upon putting down the treason in person. To save time he daringly resolved to cross the dominions of his rival Francis (with whom he had recently been partially reconciled), trusting to his chivalrous generosity not to take advantage of this confidence. Great was the consterna- tion in Ghent when it was announced that Charles, who was supposed to be many hundred miles off, had suddenly arrived before the city, and had sur- rounded it with a large army. Mes- sengers were despatched to sue for his forgiveness, but, without granting con- ditions, he demanded instant admittance within the walls ; then posting guards at the gates, he proceeded to take mea- sures for chastising the inhabitants. It was while deliberating on the punish- ment to be inflicted that the infamous Duke of Alva suggested the annihilation of the whole city (p. 128). Charles, however, was satisfied with a cruel but less sweeping retribution ; 14 of the ringleaders were beheaded, others were banished, and their goods forfeited. The city was declared guilty of Uzc- majeste, and, in consequence, the ma- gistrates and principal citizens, the chiefs of the guilds and of the corpora- tion of weavers, were compelled to pre- sent themselves before Charles in black gowns, with bare heads and feet, and with halters round their necks, and to demand pardon on their knees. He ex- acted as a further penalty that the magistrates should never appear in public without the halter. This, which was intended as a badge of ignominy, was afterwards converted into a decora- tion. The rope, in the course of years, became a rich silken cord, and was worn round the neck as an ornament, 134 ROUTE 21. — GHENT. CITADEL. BEGUINAGE. Sect. II. tied with a true lover's knot in front. By the same sentence all the privileges of the city, together with the cannon and other arms of the commonalty (commune), of the trades, and of the weavers' guild, were confiscated ; and even the famous bell, called Roland, which was convicted of having played a very turbulent part with its tongue during the insurrection, was taken down from the Beffroi. As a further check to their turbu- lence, and for the entire restriction of their liberties, the Emperor soon after laid the first stone of the Citadel (chateau des Espagnols), situated on the E. side of the town, not far from the Porte d'Anvers ; to make room for it he removed 800 houses from the ancient quarter of St. Bavon. This fortress served afterwards as a prison to the Counts Egmont and Horn; and when the Flemings took up arms to throw off the Spanish yoke 1570, it was besieged by the townspeople under the Prince of Orange. It was long and vigorously defended by the Spaniards. At last 3000 men of Ghent, wearing white shirts over their clothes to dis- tinguish themselves, attempted to carry it by assault Nov. 10. The ladders, however, were too short, and they were compelled to retire with loss. The next morning, while they were preparing to renew the attack, the Spaniards sent to capitulate. When at length terms were granted the besiegers were not a little astonished to see the Senora Mondragon march out at the head of 150 men and a number of women and children, the sole remains of the garrison, whom she had headed and commanded during the whole siege, in the absence of her hus- band the governor, assisted by the other females. The Old Citadel was afterwards le- velled with the ground by a decree of the States General ; and the citizens, with their wives and children, working dike common labourers, assisted in de- molishing the stronghold of tyranny ; but some of the casemates and shat- tered walls remain, as well as parts of cloisters of the monastery of St. Bavon, and a small octagonal Chapel of St. Macarius, in the Romanesque style (date probably about 1067). It is not far from the Railway station to the E. The Btfguinage is one of the few nun- neries not suppressed by Joseph II., or swept away by the torrent of the French Revolution. It is of great ex- tent, with streets, squares, and gates surrounded by a wall and moat. It is certainly worthy a visit. At the hour of vespers strangers should repair to the chapel, where they will have an opportunity of seeing the whole sister- hood assembled. They amount to more than 600, and many are persons of wealth and rank. The sight of so large an assemblage, all in black robes and white veils (the ancient Flemish faille, which they still retain) , barely illumi- nated by the evening light and a few lamps, has a picturesque effect. The novices are distinguished by a different dress ; and those who have just taken the veil wear a chaplet round their heads. " The chanting of a small, but by no means select choir, in the music gallery, derives its interest and impres- siveness from the framework (so to say) of scenery and costume in which it is set. As a whole the service is very striking, and should on no account be missed." — H. F. C. The sisters live generally in separate houses. On the doors are inscribed the names, not of the tenant of the house, but of some saint who has been adopted as its pro- tectress. This is the principal esta- blishment of the order, which numbers in Belgium 6000 sisters. The Beguines are bound by no vow ; they may return into the world whenever they please : but it is their boast that no sister has ever been known to quit the order after having once entered it. They attend to the sick in the Beguinage, or go out as nurses into the town, and are constantly seen at the Hospital. There is an English Church appro- priated to the Episcopal Service on the Braband Dam. It is the only Pro- testant church in Ghent. The Byloque (a Flemish word sig- nifying enclosure) is the principal Hos- pital of Ghent: it was founded 1225, and is capable of holding 600 sick. Jacques van Arteyelde, it is believed, was buried in the church of the Bv- Belgium. route 21. — giient. * loquc, after having been assassinated in his own house. It was in the Byloque that he Avas proclaimed by his towns- men Ruwaert, or Protector of Flanders, and here he assembled the men of Ghent to plead in favom 1 of an alliance between them and Edward III. The Promenades at Ghent are the double avenue of trees by the side of the Con pure, or canal, cut in 1758, to unite the Lys and the Bruges canal together. Near it is the Penitentiary (Maison de Detention), an octagon building of vast extent, begun 1772, and finished 1824. A pi-ison truly is an object which an Englishman can see frequently enough in his own country, but this is particularly well managed ; it was held up as a pattern by Howard the philanthropist, and has served as a model for many others, not only in Europe, but in America. The New Cassino, a handsome build- ing by Roelands, stands also near the Coupure, and is well worth notice. It has a literary and scientific, as well as a social destination. Exhibitions of flowers take place in the lower apart- ments. The Kauter (a Flemish word signi- fying a field), or Place d'Armes, within the town, is a large square planted with trees, and surrounded by large build- ings, among them 3 Clubs — of the mili- tary, nobles, and merchants. A military band usually plays here on summer evenings. The Boulevards around the town, anciently the ramparts, are also agreeable walks. On the Q,uai aux Herbes stands the Maison des Bateliers, the oldest house, and perhaps the most picturesque, in Ghent, having the date 1513. The insignia of the watermen's craft (whose guild was held here) are carved on its gables (§ 25). Hubert Van Eyck, the painter, lived in a house at the corner of the Rue des Vaches and the Marche aux Oiseaux, near the Kauter : it has received a modern front. A splendid collection of enamelled stone ware (Gres dc Flandre), and of German and Venetian glass, belonging to the family Hwjvetter, is well worth a visit. Rue Haute Porte, near II. de Ville. PROMENADES. RAILROADS. 135 Several buildings recently erected by the town of Ghent would do credit to the first capitals of Europe. A New 'Theatre has been built in the corner of the Place d'Armes. Its sa- loon, concert and ball-rooms arc mag- nificent, and they are well worth a visit. The building cost the town of Ghent 2,500,000 fr. The Palais de Justice, another striking new building by Roelands, stands in the Rue du Theatre, a new and handsome street. The ground floor serves as the Exchange ; the upper chambers arc appropriated as courts of justice. The Jardin des Plantes, belonging to the University, said to be the finest in Belgium, is far from deserving the praise commonly given to it. The Post Office is in the Rue de l'Universite. Vigilantes, § 22. A. The modern Citadel, begun 1822, and finished 1830, is situated on Mont Blandin, which is the end of the high land on which the western part of the city stands. It is one of the chain of fortresses defending the Belgian frontier, and commands the course of the Schelde and Lys. Ghent communicates with the sea by a grand Canal which enters the Schelde at Temeusc. It gives the city all the advantages of a seaport ; vessels draw- ing 18 ft. water can unload in the basin under its walls. At Sas van Ghent, about 14 m. N"., are sluices, by means of which the whole country could be laid under water. Railroad. — Ghent to Courtrai and Lille (on the way to Paris). Rte. 15. Railroad, Ghent to Mechlin, 56 kilom. Trains in 1^ hr. On quitting Ghent the Railway crosses the Schelde, and is carried along the S. side of it, ap- proaching now and then one of its sweeping curves. 7 Melle Stat. 7 Wetteren Stat. 9000 inliab. 6 Wichclcn Stat. 7 Audeghem Stat. Alost is 3 m. from this Stat. : omnibuses ply thither, meeting the trains (see R. 19, p. 118). The river Dcnder is crossed on leav- ing the station. 2 Dcndermonde Stat, (funs: Aigle; 136 21 A. BRUGES TO COURTRAI. 22. GHENT TO ANTWERP. Sect. II. Demi-Lune.) Termonde, or Dender- monde, a name rendered familiar to English ears by "my Uncle Toby's" constant reference to the siege of 1706, is a primitive Brabant town of 8000 inhab. and a strong fortress on the rt. bank of the Schelde, at its junction with the Dender. By means of sluices the surrounding country, which is marshy, can be laid under water. Louis XIV., who had been nearly drowned, along with his army, in attempting its siege in 1667, when told that Marlborough was about to besiege it, replied, " he must have an army of ducks to take it." Nevertheless, owing to the prevalence of a drought of 7 weeks, the garrison were quickly obliged to surrender un- conditionally to the English. The Ch. of Notre Dame, the oldest building, sur- mounted by an octagon tower, contains a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shep- herds, by VcrnDyk; a Virgin and Saints by Grayer; and an ancient font sculptured in the style of that at Winchester, out of a square block. The house of Teniers is still pointed out. 9 Malderen Stat. 10 Capelle-aux-Bois Stat. The Brus- sels canal is crossed just after leaving this station. The Louvain canal is crossed shortly before the railway reaches 8 Mechlin Stat. (See Rte. 23.) EOUTE 21 a. BRUGES TO COURTRAI. — RAILWAY. Bruges. (Rte. 21.) Station the same as that of the Ghent and Ostend Rail- way. Trains in 2 hrs. ; many stops. Thorout Stat. Thorout stands in a fertile country. A little coarse woollen cloth and much excellent lace are manu- factured here. Two annual fairs in June and July are held here. It is a very ancient town, and at the beginning of the eighth cent, is mentioned as a place of considerable traffic. It has a small Stadhuis and a large collegiate church, but neither remarkable. Near it is the Castle of Wynendale, once a hunting-seat of Robert the Frison, 10th Earl of Flanders (1090), and said to have been built by Odoacer V., Grand Forester of Flanders, in the early part of the 9th cent. Here the Bp. of Lincoln and his fellow-commissioner^ sent by Edward I. (1297), negotiated the marriages of Edward P. of "Wales and the daughter of Philip King of France, and of Edward himself and the sister of that monarch. Lichtervelde Stat. Roulers (Rousselaere, Flem.) Stat. This town is seated on a smaller stream, called the Mander, amidst very fine meadows. In ancient records it is called Rollarivm in pratis. The Stadhuis is a long ancient building in the market- place, in the middle of the town. It has a large square tower, apparently more ancient than the body of the building, at its S. end, and a slender but graceful miniature spire in its centre. The Ch. of St. Michael is a plain and rather small structure, with a very beautiful spire. It stands to the rear of the "W. side of the market-place ; its date must be about the beginning of the 16th cent. Some of the best lace in Flanders is manufactured at Roulers, and a smaH quantity of wooUen stuff. Iseghem Stat. The Lys is crossed. Courtrai Stat. (See Rte. 16.) ROUTE 22. GHENT TO ANTWERP. — RAILROAD. 31 Eng. m., 2 hrs., including ferry. The road passes through the Pays d# Wdes, one of the most populous districts, the best cultivated, and the most pro- ductive for its extent in all Em-ope. At the time of the civil wars in Flanders it was nothing more than a bare and open heath. At present there is not an inch of ground which is not rendered productive in the highest degree : every field receives as much care and atten- tion as a garden, or" a bed of tulips ; and the natural soil, little better than barren sand, has been covered artificially with the richest mould. (See Holland, In- trod. § 17.) Though the country is flat, it is far from uninteresting, being varied with large villages and neat farms, co- vered with beautiful cattle, the richest Engraved bv J. & C .Walker. rim. ROUTE 22.— GHENT TO ANTWERP. 137 and closest fields of oora or orops of Max, and inhabited by a healthy popu- lation. The district of St. Nicholas, perhaps the most thickly peopled in Europe in proportion to its extent, numbers 5210 inhab. upon every square league. The mode of farming pursued in this district is worthy the attention of i very agriculturist. Such a pattern of laborious cultivation is not to be found in the whole of Europe. The land is singularly subdivided among a great number of small proprietors. In a distance of ;>0 kilometres, 705 plots, belonging to 500 different persons, are crossed. Each holding averages § of a hectare, and is surrounded by hedges and trees. The castle of Loochristy, not far to the N. of the road, is an interesting specimen of the domestic architecture of the Uith cent. It is surrounded by a wide moat, approached by a draw- bridge. It was once a hunting-seat of the Bishops of Ghent. Bienyelde Stat. Lokcren Stat, (//in, Quatre Sceaux), a town of 16,500 inhab. There arc nsive bleaching-grounds here. St. Nicholas Stat. (Inn, H. de Flan- dres), 20,500 inhab., said to have the largest market of flax in the world. Its great square is scarcely big enough to hold the crowd assembled on market- days. Beveren Stat. Beyond the neat village of Zwyn- drecht, the cathedral of Antwerp comes in sight. For A years the whole dis- trict, and even the high road, lay many feet under water, introduced by cutting the dykes above the Tetc de Flandi-e during the siege of Antwerp. 12 Dutch run-beats floated over the polders, or fields, which are many feet lower than the level of the river at high-water. The coming and receding tides covered the surface with sand; and the ground, saturated with salt water, and deprived of all vegetation, for a long time re- mained a barren morass, interspersed With pools. The industrious efforts of the owners have made some progress in reclaiming from the condition of an un- productive waste this territory, which, owing to its natural fertility and its vicinity to a large city, WU8 of v iy great value. Near Antwerp the Schelde makes so great a bend as to convert its 1. bank into a tongue of land. The only ap- proach to Antwerp on this side lies along the top of the dykes which inter- sect the low polders, and divide them from one another and from the Schelde. At the extremity of this tongue of land is situated the Fort called Tetc de Flandre (het Vlaemsche Iloofd), Terminus, on the 1. bank of the river, exactly opposite Antwerp, forming a principal outwork and tete du pont to that fortified town. It con- tains a few small houses within its ram- part. Napoleon considered its situation more advantageous than even that of Antwerp, and designed to found a new city here. See p. 149. The Ghent railway station is here ; the passengers and private carriages are embarked in a steam ferry-boat, which plies across the Schelde every £ hr. The best view of Antwerp is obtained from this point. The Schelde is nearly 500 yards wide here, and is deep enough for a 74-gun ship. The " coupure," or cutting of the dyke, by which the Dutch laid the land on the 1. bank under water, was made a little way above the Tete de Flandre, opposite the citadel. The repairs of this breach cost 2 millions of francs. Antwerp (French, Anvers ; Flcm. Antwerpen ; Span. Amberes). mnsi H. du Grand Laboreur, Place de Meir, an old established house ; — II . St. An- toine, probably the best ; — II. du Pare, also good: these 2 hotels are on the Place Verte, near the cathedral ; both w r ell managed and much commended ; tables-d'hote at 2 and 4£ ; good, and respectably attended. 2nd class Inns: II. des Etrangers, on the Quaij II. d,' Angleterre ; II. des Pays-Bas. Antwerp is a strongly fortified city, with a citadel, on the rt. bank of the Schelde (I/Kseaut, Fr.), whit h is here navigable for vessels oi' large burden ; the tide rises 12 ft., and the water is brackish. The most probable and sim- ple derivation of the name is from the Flemish words " aen't werf,'* 01 the wharf, or i^uay. Antwerp contains References. (hthe.lrul E«- S?Jaajii&r _ Fr SfPaul f Dominicans) -Fd S'.Uuw^iin D<* S* Andre Dd ' $'. Antttini- (ChpudtUtSi ..Gf S? Ouuies (Jesuits/ F«; Must-tun Fe ' Hotel de ITUf . ... F.d Bourse Ec J'ost Office Ec Haee Verto Ed i'laee tie Meir Er" Batons du Hoi .Er' Rubens Mouse Er" Theatre F,f Published by John Munv& Albemarle Street tendon 1849. 1 .; n ,,av..ll 1 y.'.^^ aJk '" r 138 ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP : ITS DECAY. Sect. II. 90,000 inhab. In the height of its splendour and prosperity, that is to say, in the 16th cent., it is said to have numbered 200,000, but it was then the richest and most commercial city in Europe. Its merchants, indeed, were princes in wealth, and their houses splendid palaces. No city of Belgium presents grander streets and squares, the finest of which is the Place de Meir ; and its magnificent line of Quays along the Schelde are unrivalled in the coun- try. The cathedral, near the centre of the town, is surrounded by several open squares, but there is a want of a main street between it, the Place de Meir, and the Schelde, to pierce the inter- vening stacks of buildings intersected by an intricate labyrinth of narrow lanes, inhabited by the lower orders. An old author, describing the condition of Antwerp in the days of Charles V. , says that 2500 vessels were sometimes seen at one time lying in the river, laden with the productions of all quarters of the globe : 500 loaded waggons on an average entered its gates daily from the country. The money put into circula- tion annually exceeded 500,000,000 guilders, and 5000 merchants met twice every day on the Exchange. The decay and fall of its prosperity is to be traced to the tyranny of the cruel Alva, under the directions of his bigoted master, Philip II. of Spain. The establishment of the Inquisition by him, and the persecutions occasioned by it, drove thousands of industrious in- habitants to seek an asylum elsewhere. To this persecution England is indebted for her silk manufactures, which were introduced by Flemish refugees from Antwerp, in the reign of Elizabeth. Another blow to its prosperity was the memorable siege of 14 months in 1585, which ended in its capture by the Duke of Parma, one of the most memorable exploits of modern warfare, whether we consider the strength of the place, the hearty resistance offered by the citizens, who yielded at last only when starved out by famine, or the political consequences resulting from it. (See p. 117.) Then came the loss of the navigation of the Schelde, which fell into the hands of the Dutch at the union of the Seven United Provinces ; and the subsequent closing of the river by the peace of "Westphalia, 1648, com- pleted its commercial ruin, from which it was only beginning to recover when the Revolution of 1830 broke out. In consequence of that event, the most profitable commerce which. Antwerp carried on with the Dutch colonies is annihilated ; the richest merchants have quitted it, repairing to Rotterdam or Amsterdam ; its manufactures are nearly ruined, its docks comparatively empty, and its streets deserted. "Within the last few years it has recovered a part of its former prosperity. Antwerp enjoys a high reputation from its encouragement of the arts, and the eminent artists it has produced. It would be sufficient to mention the great names of Eubens (who lived here, and whose parents were of Antwerp), and of Yandyck, without alluding to others also great in their way, as Teniers, Jor- daens, Quentin Matsys, &c, who were""* all natives of Antwerp or its neighbour- hood. Trade and commerce have, in- deed, deserted it, but their consequences, in a variety of instances, particularly in the great works of art produced here, still remain behind : the power and genius of Rubens especially, whose masterpieces still exist here, are no- where else to be equally understood and appreciated. The Academy or Corpo- ration of St. Luke, in this city, for the encouragement of painting, was one of the oldest societies of the kind in Eu- rope ; it was founded in 1454 by Philip the Good, and endowed by Philip IV. of Spain, and may be regarded as the cradle of the Flemish school. A colossal statue of Rubens, by Geefs, a native of Antwerp, has been erected on the Place Verte, in front of The Cathedral of Notre Dame, one of the largest churches and most beautiful specimens of Gothic architecture in the Netherlands. It is believed to have been commenced in the middle of the 13th cent., and to have taken 84 years to finish. It was burnt in 1533, but the tower and choir were preserved. It was rebuilt the following year. The interior is simple and imposing : it is 500 ft. long and 250 wide, and the ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. Belgium. effect of the vastness of its lofty choir and nave, with treble aisles on each side, is assisted by its being all finished on the same uniform plan, and left open. It was sacked by the fanatic iconoclasts in 1566, when its rich altars, ornaments, and sculptures, were either burned or carried off. In the choir a chapter of the Golden Fleece was held in 1555 by Philip II. of Spain, at which nine kings and sovereign princes were present, and assisted as knights of the order. The great attraction in this church is the masterpiece of Rubens — the Descent from the Cross. It hangs in the S. transept, near the door leading out of the Place Vertc. On one of the lateral pieces or folding doors is represented the Salutation of the Virgin ; on the other the Presentation of the Infant Jesus in the Temple ; and on the back of them are a colossal figure of St. Christopher carrying the infant Saviour, and a hermit. •" This picture, of all the works of Rubens, is that which has the most reputation. I had consequently con- ceived the highest idea of its excellen- cies ; knowing the print, I had formed in my imagination what such a compo- sition would produce in the hands of such a painter. I confess I was disap- pointed. However, this disappointment did not proceed from any deficiency in the picture itself; had it been in the original state in which Rubens left it, it must have appeared very different; but it is mortifying to see to what de- gree it has suffered by cleaning and mending. That brilliant effect, which it undoubtedly once had, is lost in a mist of varnish, which appears to be ( hilled or mildewed. The Christ is in many places retouched, so as to be visible at a distance; the St. John's head repainted ; and other parts, on a close inspection, appear to be chipping off, and ready to fall from the canvas. However, there is enough to be seen to satisfy any connoisseur that in its per- fect state it well deserved all its repu- tation. " The composition of this picture is said to be borrowed from an Italian print. The greatest peculiarity of this 139 composition is the contrivance of the white sheet on which the body of Jesus lies : this circumstance was probably what induced Rubens to adopt the com- position. He well knew what effect white linen, opposed to flesh, must have, with his powers of colouring, — a circumstance which was not likely to enter into the mind of an Italian painter,* who probably would have been afraid of the linen's hurting the colouring of the flesh, and have kept it down by a low tint. And the truth is, that none but great colourists can ven- ture to paint pure white linen near flesh ; but such know the advantage of it. I consider Rubens' s Christ as one of the finest figures that ever was in- vented ; it is most correctly drawn, and, I apprehend, in an attitude of the ut- most difficulty to execute. The hang- ing of the head on his shoulder, and the falling of the body on one side, give it such an appearance of the heaviness of death, that nothing can exceed it. " Of the three Maries, two of them have more beauty than ho generally be- stowed on female figures, but no great elegance of character. The St. Joseph of Arimathea is the same countenance which he so often introduced in his works — a smooth, fat face, — a very un- historical character. The principal light is formed by the body of Christ and the white sheet; there is no second light which bears any proportion to the prin- cipal. In this respect it has more the manner of Rembrandt's disposition of light than any other of Rubens' s works ; however, there are many detached lights distributed at some distance from the great mass, such as the head and shoulders of the Magdalen, the heads of the two Maries, the head of St. Joseph, and the back and arm of the figure leaning over the cross ; the whole sur- rounded with a dark sky, except a little light in the horizon and above the cross. " The historical anecdote relating to * Rubens probably obtained the idea of this picture from a celebrated one of the same sub- ject, in the chinch of the Trinita de* Monti at Rome, by Daniel ili Volterra, who was assisted In it by Michael An^elo ; there is considerable similarity in the two works. 140 ROUTE 22. ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. Sect. II. this picture says that it was given in exchange for a piece of ground (belong- ing to the guild of Arquehusiers) on which Eubens built his house ; and that the agreement was only for a picture representing their patron, St. Christo- pher, with the infant Christ on his shoulders. Rubens, who wished to sur- prise them by his generosity, sent 5 pictures instead of 1, — a piece of gal- lantry on the side of the painter which was undoubtedly well received by the Arquehusiers, since it was so much to their advantage, however expensive to the maker of it. It was undertaken 1611, and set up 1612. All those pic- tures were intended to refer to the name of their patron Christopher. " In the first place, the body of Christ on the altar is borne by St. John, St. Joseph of Arimathea, Mary Magda- len, &c. On one side of the left door is the Salutation of Mary and Elizabeth. The Virgin here bears Christ before he is born." — R. The two doors when closed form a single picture, representing St. Christo- pher himself bearing the Infant on his shoulders, guided by the light of a hermit's lantern. " The hermit appears to be looking to the other side ; one hand holds the lantern, and the other is very naturally held up to prevent the light from coming upon his eyes. On the reverse of this door we have an- other Christopher, the priest Simeon bearing Christ high in his arms, and looking upwards. This picture, which has not suffered, is admirable indeed, the head of the priest more especially; which nothing can exceed ; the expres- sion, drawing, and colouring are beyond all description, and as fresh as if the piece were just painted. The colouring of the St. Christopher is too red and bricky, and the outline is not flowing. This figure was all that the company of the Arquehusiers expected ; but Eubens justly thought that such a figure would have made but a poor subject for an altar."— B. This picture was taken by the French to Paris, and while there underwent a very judicious reparation and cleaning ; so that it is probably in far better con- dition now than when seen by Sir Joshua. At any rate, it is the opinion of the best judges that his praise of this truly wonderful picture is on the whole too qualified. He has omitted to men- tion the well-known story of the share which Vandyck is said to have had in the painting. While the work was in progress, and dining the absence of Rubens, the picture was thrown down by accident or carelessness of his pupils, and received serious injury in the fall. Vandyck was selected as the most skilful hand among them to repair the damage, and succeeded so well, that Rubens, on his return, declared that he preferred his scholar's work to his own. Th parts restored by him were the cheek and chin of the Virgin, and the arm of the Magdalen. In the opposite or N. transept is the Elevation of the Cross, " the first public work which Eubens executed after he returned from Italy. In the centre is Christ nailed to the cross, with a num- ber of figures exerting themselves in different ways to raise it. One of the figures appears flushed, all the blood rising into his face from his violent efforts ; others in intricate attitudes, which, at the same time that they show the great energy with which the busi- ness is done, give that opportunity which painters desire, of encountering the difficulties of the art, in foreshort- ening and in representing momentary actions. This subject, which was pro- bably of his own choosing, gave him an admirable opportunity of exhibiting his various abilities to his countrymen ; and it is certainly one of his best and most animated compositions. " The bustle which is in every part of the picture makes a fine contrast to the character of resignation in the cru- cified Saviour. The sway of the body of Christ is extremely well imagined. The taste of the form in the Christ, as well as in the other figures, must be acknowledged to be a little inclinable to the heavy, but it has a noble, free, and flowing outline. The invention of throwing the cross obliquely from one corner of the picture to the other is finely conceived — something in the manner of Tintoret : it gives a new and uncommon air to his subject, and we, B
  • le. Jordaens' horse was little inferior to those of Rubens."— H. The Church of St. Anthony of PaJn infant Jesus, " who stands on a table. The infant appears H 146 ROUTE 22. ANTWERP. MUSEUM. RUBENS. Sect. II. to be attentively looking at something ont of the picture. The vacant stare of a child is very naturally represented ; but it is a mean ordinary -looking boy, and by no means a proper representation of the Son of God. The only picture of Christ in which Rubens succeeds is when he represents him dead : as a child, or as a man engaged in any act, there is no divinity; no grace or dig- nity of character appears." " St. John, finely coloured, but this character is likewise vulgar." (219) A Holy Family. " Far from being one of Rubens' s best pictures ; it is scarce worthy to be con- sidered a pattern for imitation, as its merit consists solely in being well coloured. And yet this is the picture which Rubens painted for the Corpora- tion of St. Luke, and it was hung up in their Hall of Meeting." At least the head of the Virgin is pleasing. (220) Our Saviour on the Cross, admirable. (212) " The famous Crucifixion of Christ between the two thieves. To give animation to this subject, Rubens has chosen the point of time when an executioner is piercing the side of Christ, while another with a bar of iron is breaking the limbs of one of the male- factors, who, in his convulsive agony, which his body admirably expresses, has torn one of his feet from the tree to which it was nailed. The expression in the action of this figure is wonderful. The attitude of the other is more com- posed, and he looks at the dying Christ with a countenance perfectly expressive of his penitence. This figure is like- wise admirable. The Virgin, St. John, and Mary the wife of Cleophas, are standing by with great expression of grief and resignation, whilst the Mag- dalen, who is at the feet of Christ, and may be supposed to have been kissing his feet, looks at the horseman with the spear with a countenance of great hor- ror ; as the expression carries with it no grimace or contortion of the features, the beauty is not destroyed. This is by far the most beautiful profile I ever saw of Rubens, or, I think, of any other painter ; the excellence of its colouring is beyond expression. To say that she may be supposed to have been kissing Christ's feet may be thought too refined a criticism; but Rubens certainly in- tended to convey that idea, as appears by the disposition of her hands, for they are stretched out towards the execu- tioner, and one of them is before and the other behind the Cross, which gives an idea of her hands having been round it ; and it must be remembered that she is generally represented kissing the feet of Christ— it is her place and employ- ment in those subjects. The good Cen- turion ought not to be forgotten, who is leaning forward, one hand on the other, resting on the mane of his horse, while he looks up to Christ with great earnest- ness." " The genius of Rubens nowhere ap-' pears to more advantage than here — it is the most carefully finished picture of all his works. The whole is conducted with the most consummate art. The composition is bold and uncommon, with circumstances which no other painter had ever before thought of, such as the breaking of the limbs and the expression of the Magdalen, to which we may add the disposition of the three crosses, which are placed perspectively in an uncommon picturesque manner : the nearest bears the thief whose limbs are breaking ; the next, the Christ, whose figure is straighter than ordinary, as a contrast to the others ; and the furthermost, the penitent thief. This produces a most picturesque effect, but it is what few but such a daring genius as Rubens would have attempted. It is here, and in such compositions, we properly see Rubens, and not in little pictures of Madonnas and Bambinos. " I have dwelt longer on this picture than any other, as it appears to me to deserve extraordinary attention. It is certainly one of the first pictures in the world, for composition, colouring, and what was not to be expected from Rubens, correctness of drawing." (214) St. Theresa interceding for the Souls in Purgatory. " The Christ is a better character, has more beauty and grace, than is usual with Rubens : the outline remarkably undulating, smooth, and flowing. The head of one of the women in purgatory is beautiful, in Rubens' s way : the whole has great harmony of colouring and freedom of Belgium. route 22. — ANTWERP, museum, vandyck. 147 pencil. Tt is in his best manner." ('2'21) The Trinity : Christ lying dead in the arms of God the Father. An unimpres- sive and irreverent representation of the Deity, under the figure of an old man. The Christ ia foreshortened Avith great skill in drawing." (213) The Adoration of the Magi. "A hi rue and magnificent composition of nearly 20 figures, in Rubens's best manner. Such subjects seem to be more peculiarly adapted to Rubens' s style and manner ; his excellence, his superiority, is not seen in small compo- sitions. One of the kings, who holds a cup in his hand, is loaded with drapery. His head appears too large, and upon the whole he makes but an ungraceful figure. The head of the ox is remark- ably well painted." — R. (222) A small sketch or copy of the Descent from the Cross, in the cathedral — good, though perhaps not by Rubens himself. (217) The Virgin instructed by St. Anne. " This picture is eminently well coloured, especiaUy the angels : the union of their colour with the sky is wonderfully managed. It is remarkable that one of the angels has Psyche's wings, which are like those of a butter- fly. This picture is improperly called St. Anne teaching the Virgin to read, who is represented about 14 or 15 years of age, too old to begin to learn to read. The white silk drapery of the Virgin is well painted, but not historical. The silk is too particularly distinguished, a fault of which Rubens is often guilty in his female drapery ; but by being of the same colour as the sky, it has a soft har- monious effect. The rest of the picture is of a mellow tint." (216) The Communion of St. Francis. He is accompanied by many of his order, and " appears more like a Lazar than a Saint. Though there are good heads in this picture, yet the principal figure is BO disgustful it does not deserve much commendation/' It was the design, however, of the painter to exhibit the Saint in (he act of receiving extreme unction immediately before his death, his body emaciated by disease and ab- stinence, so that, however disagreeable, the picture has at least truth. (21K) Christ showing his Mounds to St. Thomas. The expression in the face of the Saint is perfect. "The head of the Christ is rather a good character, but the body and arms are heavy. It has been much damaged. On the in- side of the 2 folding doors are portraits of the Burgomaster Nicholas Rokkox and his wife, half-lengths. His is a fine portrait ; the ear is remarkably well painted, and the anatomy of the fore- head is well understood. Her portrait has no merit but that of colour." — /.'. Vandtjck— (262) A Crucifixion : St. Catherine of Sienna (Sir Joshua calls her St. Rosaria) at the feet of Christ, and St. Dominick. " A sepulchral lamp and a flambeau reversed are here introduced to show that Christ is dead. Two little angels are represented on one side of the cross, and a larger angel be- low. The 2 little ones look like em- bryos, and have a bad effect, and the large angel is not painted with equal success to many other parts of the pic- ture. The shadows are too red, and the locks of the hair are all painted in a hard and heavy manner. For its de- fects ample amends are made in the Christ, which is admirably drawn and coloured, and a breadth of light pre- served over the body with the greatest skill, at the same time that all the parts are distinctly marked. The form and character are of a more elegant kind than those we see commonly of Rubens. The idea of St. Catherine closing her eyes is finely imagined, and gives an uncommon and delicate expression to the figure. The conduct of the light and sha- dow of this picture is likewise worth the attention of a painter. To preserve the principal mass of light, which is made by the body of Christ, of a beautiful shape, the head is kept in half shadow. The under garment of St. Dominick and the angel make the second mass, and the St. Catherine's head, handker- chief, and arm, the third." — R. (365) The dead Christ, with the Vir- gin supporting tin- body on her knees, in an attitude of the deep. -st agony; Mary Magdalen kneeling. " This has been one of the most chaste pictures, but the colouring Lb gone. The expres- sion of tin* Virgin is admirable ; it h2 148 ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. MUSEUM. DOCKS. Sect. II. conveys an idea that she is petition- ing with an earnest agony of grief. The Virgin's drapery and the sky being exactly of the same colour has a had effect : the linen is remarkably well folded."— £. (246) Same subject, differently treated. The Virgin behind ; the Magdalen, and St. John. il The Virgin's head is ad- mirable for drawing and expression. The figure of Christ is likewise finely drawn, every part carefully determined ; but the colouring of this figure, and indeed of the picture in general, is a little too cold : there is likewise some- thing defective in one of the hands of the Virgin."— R. (267) Portraits of Caesar Seaglia, one of the Spanish negotiators at the Con- gress of Miinster, and of Malderus Bi- shop of Antwerp. Seghers — Marriage of the Virgin; " one of his best pictures." Sdiut — Martyrdom of St. George. "It is well composed and well drawn, and is one of his best pictures ; but the saint has too much of that cha- racter which painters have fixed for Christ. There is a want of bril- liancy, from its having too much har- mony : to produce force and strength a stronger opposition of colours is re- quired." — R. Ambrose Franck — "The Martyrdom of St. Crispin and Crispinius has some good heads, but in a dry manner." — R. Cornelius de Vos — St. Korbert and another Saint receiving the Sacrament. (240) The Family Snoeck presenting an offering to the Church of St. Michael. The portraits are extremely well painted. " De Vos was particularly excellent in portraits." — R. Of this there can be no better proof than is afforded by the portrait (237) of the keeper of the cor- poration of St. Luke, «. e. the Academy of Antwerp, covered with the medals and other decorations presented, along with the goblets on the table before him, to that institution by princes and potentates, all of which have long since disappeared. It is painted with won- derful force and truth. Titian — Pope Alexander VI. intro- ducing to St. Peter the admiral of his fleet against the Turks (a Bishop of Paphos) is an interesting picture, in the early style of this master. It once belonged to the collection of King Charles I. Tenters — (297) Boors smoking, a brilliant specimen of the artist, purchased from the collection of M. van Schamps for 14,600 francs. A modern work (382), the Death of Eubens, by Van Bree, President of the Academy, looks cold, raw, and feeble by the side of the pictures enumerated above, but it has the good fortune to be highly admired by the citizens. A collection of paintings, chiefly of the older schools of Flanders and Ger- many, has been bequeathed to the city by the burgomaster Van Ertborn. The very dear and slovenly catalogue con- tains no notice of them, though they have been in the Museum for many years, nor are they numbered. The following, which may be found from their descriptions, are most worthy of notice: — Giotto, 2 small pictures, one representing St. Paul, the other a Bishop and a Nun. Fra Angelico, an Emperor humbling himself before a Pope. Anton di Messina, a Crucifixion. A. Diirer, Mater Dolorosa. Holbein, Francis II. when Dauphin; Portrait of Erasmus; of Sir Thos. More. John van Eyck, Por- traits of a Magistrate and of two Monks ; Interior of a Gothic Church. Margaret v. Eyck, Flight into Egypt. Memling, Annunciation of the Virgin ; Adoration of the Shepherds ; the Virgin in a church and a Bishop praying ; Virgin and Child, white ; surrounded by Angels, red. Jean de Mabuse, Mount Calvary. Quentin Matsys, Head of Christ and of the Vir- gin. The Docks and Basins. — Napoleon laboured unceasingly to make Antwerp the first seaport and naval arsenal of the N., to render it the rival of London in its commerce, and of Portsmouth as a naval establishment. He well knew that the trade of London would to a certain extent be at the mercy of a hos- tile fleet stationed so near to the mouth of the Thames as Antwerp. The works carried into execution by him are said to have cost 2,000,000?. sterling. The English all along endeavoured to frus- trate so formidable a design ; and the Belgium. ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CITADEL. SIEGE. 149 ill-fated expedition of 1809 to Wal- cheren was designed for the destruction of these works. Napoleon's estimate of their importance may be gathered from his own declaration to Las Casas at St. Helena : " The works hitherto erected were nothing to what I intended. The whole sandy plain which now stretches for miles behind the Tote de Flandres, on the left bank of the river, was to have been enclosed by fortifications and formed into a vast city. The imperial dockyards and basins, the arsenal and magazine, were to have been constructed there, and those on the right bank were to have been abandoned to private mer- chants. Antwerp was to rise a province in itself — France without the frontier of the Rhine and Antwerp is nothing." At the conclusion of the peace of Paris, in 1814, the dockyards were demolished in accordance with one of the articles of that treaty. The two basins were allowed to re- main for commercial purposes, and form a chief source of prosperity to the city. In 1843, 1560 vessels entered here. One of the basins is capable of contain- ing 34, the other 14 ships of the line. The entrance to them is difficult, owing to the strength of the cur- rent, which sometimes catches the stern of a vessel and drives it ashore. The docks in winter are of great service in protecting vessels, which, if allowed to remain in the open river, would be serioxisly injured by the floating ice. They are lined with capacious ware- houses (P Entrepot), and between the two stands a venerable edifice, originally the factory of the Hanseatic League (Domus Hansoe Tcutonicaa, Sacri Ro- mani Imperii, 1568), called the Ooster- lings. This building, a palace in extent, served as a warehouse and residence for the Consul or director of that celebrated association of merchants. At the head of the inner dock rises the handsome range of new Warehouses, 5 stories high, vaulted with stone, intended by the King of Holland for a custom-house and bonded warehouse. The centre is or- namented with a Doric portico, but is unfinished. The Citadel, remarkable for the siege which it endured in 1832, was erected by a celebrated engineer named Pac- ciotti, for the Duke of Alva, to keep in awe the citizens. It was long regarded as a model of a fortress, especially after the celebrated General Camot had strengthened greatly its works and ex- hausted all his science and skill as an engineer upon it. It withstood, under his command, a blockade of 4 months in 1814, and was at length yielded up to the British under General Gra- ham. The siege of 1832 began Nov. 29 and ended Jan. 23, when the garrison sur- rendered themselves prisoners of war. The whole French force in Belgium, under the command of Marshal Gerard, may be estimated at 66,400 men — the troops actually employed in the siege at 55,000. Such a numerous army and tremendoiis train of artillery were pro- bably never before brought to the siege of a fortress of so small extent, and were far greater than necessary to re- duce such a place according to the usual practice of war. The troops in the trenches were commanded by the late Duke of Orleans, and the chief engineer was General Haxo. The Belgians were allowed to fire the first gun from Fort Montebello. The Lunette St. Laurent, the part nearest the town, was first at- tacked, and was taken on the 14th. On the 21st batteries began to breach the Bastion de Toledo. On the 23rd the breach was nearly practicable, when General Chasse sent a flag of truce and the garrison surrendered. The total loss sustained by the town on this oc- casion has been estimated at nearly 4,000,000 guilders. The number of the Dutch garrison under the veteran Chasse amounted to 4500 men, with 145 pieces of ordnance. The French had 223 guns — an over-' whelming weight of metal. The trenches dug by them measured between 8 and 9 English m., and no less than 63,000 projectiles were thrown by them, so that every wall or building within the fortress was all but razed to the ground ; even many of the casemates and other parts which had been con- sidered bomb-proof were shattered, and the subterraneous galleries, used as an hospital, threatened to full and 150 ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. H. DE VILLE. Sect. II. crush the "wounded and dying deposited in them towards the end of the siege. In looking afterwards at the solid walls rent from top to : bottom and tottering, itmight have been supposed that nothing but an earthquake could have caused such total desolation. The whole in- terior space presented a mass of ruins, the very ground being furrowed and ploughed up by the shot and shells ; and, to use the words of an eye-witness, there was not a foot's space of ground or building that was not shattered or pierced. Of the little Gothic chapel which stood within the citadel scarcely any part remained whole. In a military point of view the in- juries done to the outer fortifications, excepting the breach, were not consi- derable. They have all been repaired, and a new demi-lune has been erected to strengthen the works. Admission to see the citadel may be obtained by ap- plication through a laquais de place at the Hotel de Ville. At present no traces of the siege remain, except in the absence of the houses, barracks, and church, which previously filled the in- terior. The only objects worth notice are — the confined casemate in the Bas- tion Duque, originally used as a prison for galley-slaves, in which General Chasse was lodged for a month, deprived of the light of day, and the temporary Hospital, erected by the Dutch, con- sisting of a bomb-proof roof of earth 8 ft. thick, supported on planks by nu- merous trunks of trees 6 ft. high, with sloping beams of wood at the sides, in- stead of walls. There is a large Theatre, splendidly fitted up, but open only part of the year. The Hotel de Ville (1581), in the Grande Place, is not equal in splendour to those of Ghent, Brussels, or Louvain, but is still a handsome edifice, of Italian architecture, designed by Corn, de Vriendt (Floris), ornamented exter- nally with the 5 orders, one over the other. It contains, in the Passport Office, a painting of the Judgment of Solomon, by P. Floris; in the Salle des Manages, a richly carved chimney- piece, representing the Marriage at Cana ; in the Salle de Justice, another, an elegant work in the style of the Re- naissance ; and the town Library. The Bourse, built in 1531, is inte- resting, because it was " there where merchants most did congregate " in the times when the whole world's trade was carried on in it. Sir Thomas Gresham, who resided at Antwerp (1550) as British Agent, chose it as a model for the Royal Exchange in London. Round the inner court runs a species of cloister, supported by columns of florid Gothic, not without beauty. The English established a connection with Antwerp at an early period : they had an Exchange of their own here, which still exists, retaining the name Engelsclie Beurs. Edward III. visited the city in 1338, and a son borne to him here by Queen Philippa was named Lionel of Antwerp in consequence. Other antique buildings worthy of notice are, the Maison du Geant, Rue des N&ttes, long occupied by the knights of the Teutonic Order ; in the same street, a chapel, of the 15th cent., in the house of M. van Cannaert ; the Vieilles Boucheries (1505), near St. Paul's church, now a corn warehouse. The Council Room of the Brewers' Company is remarkable as one of the few which have escaped modern changes. It retains its original fireplace and fur- niture, and is still hung with stamped and gilt leather, and lighted by chan- deliers, all dating from the end of the 17th cent. A chef-d'oeuvre of Jor- daens is over the fireplace, which was painted for the place in which it now hangs^ There is a fine collection of paint- ings and antiquities belonging to Mdlle. Herry, Everdyk Street. The Post Office is in the Place Yerte, next door to the Hotel du Pare. Letters may now be posted at the branch offices (Bourse, &c), as at Brussels. The house in which Rubens resided and died was situated in the Rue de Rubens, No. 1450, not far from the Palais du Roi. The screen, of rich Italian architecture, with the archway leading into the garden, was designed by Rubens himself. In the garden stands the pavilion where he painted, and the stone table at which he s<*t, Btlgium. ROUTK 22A. — ANTWERP TO TURNHOUT. 151 The loyal Duke of Newcastle (the horseman), having quitted England in disgust after the battle of Marston .Moor, resided in this house, which he rented of Rubens's widow, and enter- tained here Charles II. and other re- fugee cavaliers. The Quai, extending hy the side of the Sehelde more than a mile, forms an agreeable promenade. At the en- trance of a street is a Triumphal Arch, erected (1624) in honour of Philip IV. of Spain, " Cui Tamils, ot Ganges, Rhenus cui servit et Indus." On the Porte de Malines is inscribed in large letters S. P. Q. A. (Senatus Populusque Antverpia;) — a poor conceit, but adopted by all the Belgian cities in their prosperous days. The Place de Meir should he seen on market-day (Friday), when it presents a most lively scene, crowded with country-women in the picturesque Fle- mish costume. English Service is performed twice every Sunday and Holidays, at a church in the Rue des Tanneurs, at -j to 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. Max Kornicker, a respectable book- seller, has a shop in the Hue des Tan- neurs, No. 1054, near the Place de Meir. " liaillie's Indian Warehouse is worth visiting ; the traveller will there sec the best specimens of the black silk for which Antwerp has always been celebrated, of which the mantillas arc made. It is sold by weight: the richest quality, about 1£ English yard wide, costs about 25 f. the Flemish ell. The colour docs not change even on the ap- plication of lemon juice. Mr. Baillie p obsesses a fine collection of paintings of the Dutch and Flemish schools." British and American (U.S.) Consuls reside at Antwerp. A Canal, capable of admitting vessels of 70 tons, runs from Antwerp, through the desolate district of heath and mo- rass ealled the Campine, to Herrenthals, a distance of 10 leagues. Ratltvaya ($ 22).— To Malines, Brus- sels, Liege: terminus outside the Porte BorgerhoXrt J omnibuses call at the hotels to convey passengers to anil fro (See lite. 2:5) ;— to Ghent : terminus beyond the Sehelde, at the Tete de Flandres. Steamers to Rotterdam daily in sum- mer, in 9 or 10 his. (lite. 18) ; to Lon- don, Sun., "Wed., and Thurs. \'i'/i/(intes (cabs) stand in the Place Verto and Place de Meir : fare ^ fr. for a drive within the walls : or by hour, li and 1 fr. (§ 22a.) ROUTE 22 a. ANTWERP TO TURNHOUT AND THE BEL- GIAN PAUPER COLONIES, AND ROUND TO LOUVA1X. Diligence daily to Turnhout. The road traverses a wide district of heath, much of which is \xnrcclaimcd, but at first it passes many pretty villas ; the waste begins about 8 m. from Antwerp. A little way short of Wcstmael is the convent of the monks of La Trappe, who have reclaimed an estate of 400 acres from the barren heath. It is a plain building, somewhat like a work- house. The brothers, nearly 60 in number, observe the strict rule of the order, in preserving silence, passing the night in prayer, &c. The garden is also the burial-ground, and a grave lies always open to receive him who is next to drop. Cleanliness is little attended to. Wcstmael. About 7 m. N.E. of this is Wortel, a pauper colony established by the Dutch government in 1S22, and containing 460 inhab. It stands in the midst of a heath. " It was placed, at its foundation, under the direction of Capt. Van den Bosch, brother to the General, and the plan of operation was similar to that of Frederiksord. (See lite. 7.) The company at Wortel con- tracted to maintain 1000 paupers for 35 florins each per ann. ; other paupers were afterwards taken. Another pauper settlement was undertaken by one per- son near Bruges, who also agreed with government to maintain 1000 paupexs tor 36 florins each per ann. ; but whether from the separation of Belgium from Holland, or whether the pauper colon- ists, chiefly idle vagrants sent from Brussels, being of an inferior cl 152 ROUTE 23. — ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS. Sect. II. certain, however, it is, that the pauper settlements in Belgium are far behind the colony of Frederiksord in prospe- rity." — Commerce Statistics. 4 m. be- yond is Merxplas, a colonie forcee, to which convicts are sent, and are com- pelled to work. Turnhout. Inn — Porte d'Or, clean, small, and cheap. 12 m. S. of this, in the midst of the desolate tract of moor and heath called the Campine, is Gheel, a village of 7500 inhab., a large part of whom are occupied in taking charge of lunatics sent hither from various parts of Bel- gium, amounting to 700 or 800. Some are sent hither by their friends — the paupers are supported by the govern- ment or their parish. The native pea- sants here have for generations devoted themselves to this charge. The mild system of treating lunacy has long pre- vailed here. St. Dympna, the patron saint of lunatics, was an Irishwoman, a daughter of a king of that island ; and she is said to have suffered martyrdom here by the hand of her father, from whom she had fled in order to devote herself to devotion and celibacy, in company with a Christian priest named Gerebernus. From the cures wrought upon pilgrims to her shrine Gheel be- came famous for the treatment of men- tal diseases. The Church, dedicated to her, contains her altar, at which is some curious and elaborate carving in stone and oak, representing the legends of the saint and a crucifixion. The altar-piece, surmounted by the Holy Bood, is in the style of some of the retabhs of the churches in Spain. A tabernacle con- tains some of her relics. Here is also a sculptured monument to a Count de Merode and his Countess, 1550, resem- bling that of Sir F. de Vere in "West- minster Abbey, being supported by marble figures at the corners. The road runs hence' S. about 8 m. to Vesterloo, where it crosses the river Keethe ; and about 10 m. farther, just after crossing the Demer, is the village of Aerschot. In the Church here is a rood-screen or Jub€, remarkable not only for its elaborate execution, but also for the excellent preservation of not only the tracery but even its numerous bas- reliefs and statuettes, all in a good style of art. The chandelier in front of the screen is a work of Quentin Matsys 7 presented by him to the church as a memorial of his wife, to hang over her grave in the aisle in which she is buried. It is a frame of metal rods, set with flames or flowers of hammered metal. About 12 m. from Aersehot is Lou vain. (See Bte. 26.) BOUTE 23. ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS. — RAILWAY, BY MECHLIN. 44 kilom. = 27 J Eng. m. Trains in 40 min. to Mechlin, and in 35 thenee to Brussels. Bt. is the village of Berehem, the head-quarters of the French general, Marshal Gerard, during the siege. In the orchards and gardens on the rt. the French commenced the trenches by which the approach to the citadel was effected. Many pretty country seats and gar- dens of the merchants and citizens of Antwerp lie near the railroad. Yieux Dieu (Oude God) Stat. Contich Stat.— The village (3500 in- hab.) lies to the W. j not far from it ap- pears the Gothic castle of Ter Elst. Duffel Stat. — The town is on the 1. At Liere (13,500 inhab.), 1J m. distant (no inn, but a pot-house), the noble CA. of St. Gommaire contains an exquisite flamboyant rood-loft, restored in a credit- able manner. Observe — The Marriage of the Virgin, a fine work of Memling, a gift to the eh. from the Archduke Philip of Aiistria — some fine painted glass at the E. end of the ch. — and the shrine of St. Gomes. Beyond Duffel the river Neethe is crossed. rt. At the entrance of the village of Waelhem, about 2 m. on this side of Mechlin, the remains of a low rampart or fortification may be seen on either side of the road. This is a relie of the struggle between the Dutch and Bel- gians, 1830-31. The narrow wooden bridge was the scene of a sharp skir- mish, in which the insurgent Belgians succeeded in driving the retreating army of the Dutch from a strong position and compelled them to retire under the walls of Antwerp. Belgium. ROUTE 23. — MECHLIN. CATHEDRAL. 1.53 Mechlin Stat., where the trains stop for a few mm., is the point of de- parture from which 4 linos of railway ramify through Belgium. Those are called in the tilne-tahles, IAgne du Xord, which Leads to Antwerp ; Ligne deV Est, to Louvain, liege, Vervieraj Ligne de VOuest) to Ghent, Bruges, and Os- tend ; Ligne dn Midi, to Brussels, and thence to Mons, Charlcroi, and Naniur, or to Lille. There is almost invariably great confusion, and frequently delay here, from the meetings of the trains. Travellers should take care they arc not put into the wrong train, and that they are not run over in crossing the numer- ous lines of rails. Sheds, at least, ought to be constructed to protect pas- sengers and their'baggage from the rain. Mechlin is equi-distant from Antwerp, Brussels, and Louvain. A handsome approach has been made from the rail- way stat. into the town (5min. walk)- MECHLIN (Fr., Malines; Flem., Me- chclcn ; Genu., Mccheln). Inns : H. St. Jacques; La Grue, in the Grande Place. Mechlin is situated on the Dyle, and has 29,660 inhab. It is one of the most picturesque Flemish cities, from the quaint architecture of its houses and the multitude of signs over the shops, but presents now a deserted as- pect. The railway was planned to traverse the midst of the city, but the magistrates (gaudet Mechlinia stultis, § 25), like the wise men of Northamp- ton, Oxford, and Maidstone, stoutly re- sisted this, and with success. Now few of the millions who pass this city annually enter it, and still fewer stop here. Mechlin is the see of the Belgian Primate. The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Rum- bold (the choir finished in 1451, the nave in 1437), deserves to be visited. The interior is large and lofty. It has a carved pulpit, representing the Con- version of St. Paul, with the fallen saint and his fallen horse below ; and an altar-piece in the N. transept, by Van- dyck, of the Crucifixion, painted after his return from Italy. " This, perhaps, is the most capital of all his works, in respect to the variety and extensiveness of the design, and the judicious disposi- tion of the whole. In the efforts which the thieves make to disengage them- selves from the CrOSS he has success- fully encountered the difficulty of the art, and the expression of grief and re- signation in the Virgin is admirable. Upon the whole, this maybe considered as one of the first pictures in the world, and gives the highest idea of Yandyck's powers : it shows that he had truly a genius for history painting, if it had not been taken off by portraits. The colouring of this picture is certainly not of the brightest kind, but it seems as well to correspond with the subject as if it had the freshness of Rubens. St. John is a mean character, the only weak part in the picture, unless we add an- other circumstance, though but a minute one — the hair of the Magdalen, at the foot of Christ, is too silky, and in- deed looks more like silk drapery than hair." — R. The picture was carefully cleaned in 1848, and seems to have been little retouched. In the side chapels, around the choir, are 25 paintings by Michel Coexie, or at least of his time, representing events in St. Rumbold's life — very curious. The organ possesses a rich and full body of tone. The massive though unfinished Tower, begun 1452, is 348 ft. high, that is, only 18 ft. lower than the cross of St. Paul's : had the steeple been com- pleted, it would have been 640 ft. high. A story is told of an alarm being given in the town that the tower was on fire ; but, when fire-engines were brought and the inhabitants had flocked together in haste to put out the conflagration, it was found to be nothing more than the light of the moon shining through the Gothic open work. This, which was probably only a malicious joke, has given rise to a sort of proverb, not at all relished by thoso to whom it is ap- plied — " The wise men of Mechlin tried to extingmsh the moon." This church was built with the money obtained by the sale of indulgences to pilgrims, who flocked hither in 14.V_>, to celebrate a Jubilee proclaimed by the Pope throughout Christendom, o\\ the occasion of the war against the Turks. In the Grande Place, in which the ca- thedral stands, are several ancient build- ings, — Les Holies, with a turret, date h3 154 ROUTE 23. — MECHLIN. CHURCHES, Sect. II. 1340, and the Town Hall, called Beyard, a structure of the 1 5th cent. In the midst is a statue of Jeanne de Brabant, by Geefs, surrounded by elegant iron- work. In the Church of St. John is a very famous altar-piece with wings by Bu- bens, composed of the following pieces : The Adoration of the Magi. " A large and rich composition; but there is a want of force in the Virgin and Child — they appear of a more shadowy sub- stance than the rest of the picture, which has his usual solidity and rich- ness. One of the Kings holds an in- cense vase. This circumstance is men- tioned to distinguish this picture from the many others which Bubens has painted of this subject. On the inside of one of the doors is the Decollation of St. John the Baptist ; on the other, St. John the Evangelist in the caldron of boiling oil. The figures which are put- ting him into the caldron want energy, which is not a common defect of Bu- bens. The character of the head of the Saint is vulgar, which, indeed, in him is not an uncommon defect. The whole is of a meUow and rich colouring, On the outside of those doors are John bap- tizing Christ, and St. John the Evan- gelist in the Isle of Patmos writing the Apocalypse. Both of these are in his best manner. The Eagle of St. John is remarkably weB painted. The Baptism is much damaged." — -M. Sir Joshua mentions ;8 small paintings in panels under these, aU by Bubens, but showing little merit, except faciBty of hand. The subjects were the Cruci- fixion, the Nativity, and Besurrection. The first alone remains ; the others, it is believed, were not returned with the rest of the pictures from Prance. " Bubens was paid for these 8 pic- tures 1800 florins of Brabant, about 1801. English, as appears by the receipt in his own handwriting, still preserved in the sacristy, and the whole was be- gun and finished in 18 days." — B. The elegant Gothic Ch, of Notre Dame, passed on the 1. hand in coming from the railway, contains behind the high altar the Miraculous Draught of Pishes, by Rubens, painted for the Guild of Fishmongers, and considered one of his most masterly works. His excel- lence of colour and rivalry of the "Vene- tian school are nowhere more conspicu- ous than in this picture. It ought not to be passed over unseen, On the wings or shutters are painted — The Tribute Money taken from the mouth of the fish ; Tobias and the Pish ; Peter, Andrew, James, and John,, the 4 dis- ciples who were fishermen. Beneath these were three smaB pictures which also disappeared with the French. Bu- bens painted these 8 subjects in 10 days for 1000 florins. There is another Church of Notre Dame here, caBed De Ranswyk. It owed its existence to a statue of the Virgin which floated up the river against the stream by miraculous agency tiB it stopped and remained fixed at the spot where the church, which was buflt in consequence, now stands ! This was not the only miracle performed by the image, for it obtained such a high re- putation for curing aB kinds of maladies that the weak and the devout made pil- grimages to it from far and near. The image exists no longer, having been de- stroyed by sacrBegious hands when the army of the Confederates, under OBver Temple, in 1580, took and piBaged the city, Mechlin was the seat of the Imperial Chamber, founded by Charles the Bold, 1473, which continued to maintain the reputation of a most upright court of justice for many centuries. Charles V. andPhBip II. presided over it in person. Mechlin is the birthplace of Ernest Count Mansfeld, the celebrated leader in the 30 years' war ; of Michel Coexie (1497), the scholar and imitator of Ba- phael; and of Dodonaeus the botanist (d. 1585). The manufacture of Lace, which re- ceives its name from Mechlin, is much faBen off. Only 8 houses are now em- ployed in making it. It is a coarser and stouter variety than that made at Brussels, A group of 3 very picturesque old houses in the Kraaru Straat are a fit subject for the pencfl. " The Porte d'Egmont, and the pBe of buBdmgs caBed Begurnage, near the entrance of Mechlin, are curious relics of anti- quity."— P. H. Belgium. ROUTE 23. — V1LVORDE. BRUSSELS^ 155 The Railroad to Brussels, 20 kilo., on leaving Mechlin, crosses the canal lead- ing to Louvain. [The Chateau of Rubens at Stcen, of which place he was seigneur, still exists, though fast falling to decay, near the village of Elewyt, a little on the E. of the road between Malines and Vilvordc. It is surrounded by a moat. Teniers's house at Perck, 3 m. from Vilvorde and 2 m. from Steen, is called, from its 3 towers (none of which remain), De Brie Toren, and is marked by the ori- ginal gabled gate-house and the moat which surrounded it. A spread eagle on the folding-doors is said to be the work of the artist himself. In the vil- lage church is his wife's tomb, and a painting by him.] 10 Vilvorde Stat. (2700 inhab.), a dull town, has an interesting Ch. con- taining fine carvings in wood. Tindal, translator of the Bible into English, suffered martyrdom here as a heretic, in 1536, being strangled at the stake, and then burnt outside the town, near the Penitentiary, a huge edifice, with loop-hole windows, on the 1., which stands on the site of his prison. On quitting Vilvordc many pretty country-seats are seen on the banks of the broad canal which goes to Brussels, and outside of Vilvorde the vast Peni- tentiary mentioned above. On approaching Brussels, the Palace of Laeken, belonging to the King of Belgium, appears at some distance on the rt. It is handsomely furnished, but there is nothing to distinguish it from other kingly residences, of which a tra- veller may see enough in a continental journey. It was originally built for the Austrian governor of the Netherlands before the French revolution, and was afterwards inhabited by Napoleon, who here planned his disastrous Russian campaign. The gardens and park arc very beautiful. It is 3 m. from Brus- sels. Madame Malibran is buried in the Cemetery of Laekcn. A statue of her in marble, by Geefs, has been set up in a so-called temple, as a monument, by her husband, who caused her body to be removed hither from Manchester. The statue, however, is placed too high to be seen to advantage. The Allee Verte, a long avenue of trees, extends nearly all the way to Brussels from Laeken. The railroad runs on the opposite side of the canal, and terminates [Jfr*ws- sels 8tat.~\ at the Porte de Cologne, near the botanic garden, opposite the Longue Rue Neuve. 10 Brussels (Fr., Bruxelles ; Flem., Brussel ; Germ., Brusscl). — Inns : II. do Bellcvuo ; charges, 1 wax candle, 1 fr. ; tea, 1 fr. 50 c. ; breakfast, do. ; tablc- d'hote, 3 fr. ; bottle of ordinary wine, 3 fr. 50 c. ; dinner in private, 4 to 5 fr. ; lodging, 2 fr. H. do Flandre ; very good, the table-d'hOte is celebrated. H. de 1' Europe ; good. These 3 in the Place Roy ale. H. de France, Rue Royale, corner of the Mont du Pare ; highly recommended, comfortable and moderate. H. Royal, new, in the lower town. H. de la Regence, near the Place Royale ; good, quiet, and mo- derate. H. de la Grande Bretagne, Place Royale. II. de rUnivcrs, Longue Rue Neuve. H. des Princes, Place do laMonnaie. H. de Saxe. II . des Quatre Saisons. The expense of living at one of the principal hotels ought not to exceed 12 fr. a day, including a bottle of Bordeaux wine. 2nd class Inn : H. de Hollande, where the expenses ought not to exceed 8 fr. daily. Hotel Garni. Hotel Kreuznach, in the Rue Royale. There are also several Boarding-houses, among which may be mentioned one in the new Quartier Louise, leading from the Boulevard de Waterloo, kept by Mrs. Hay don. Brussels, the capital of the kingdom of Belgium, and seat of government and of the Chambers, on the small river Senne, has 124,461 inhab., or, includ- ing the suburbs, 160,000. It is divided into the upper and lower towns, the upper being the newest as well as the most fashionable and healthy quarter, from its elevated site. It contains the King's palace, the Chambers, and the chief hotels. The foreign ambaassadors reside in the Rue Ducal.'. The Rue de la Loi is occupied by public offices. The lower town abounds in fine old pictur- esque buildings, the residences in for- 156 ROUTE 23. — BRUSSELS. PARK. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. II. mor times of the Brabant noblesse, now occupied by merchants and tradespeople. The Grande Place, with its splendid Hotel de Ville, in this quarter, is be- yond doubt unrivalled as a specimen of Gothic splendour in civic edifices. The Quartier Leopold, containing some fine houses, is becoming the favourite part of the town. French is the prevailing language, though many among the lower orders, and the majority of the popula- tion in the lower town, speak only Flemish. Those who are acquainted with the French metropolis will find here many similarities, which give Brussels the character of Paris on a small scale. Besides the language, which is the same, and a certain affectation of French manners and habits perceptible in so- ciety here, the town of Brussels has its little opera, in imitation of that of Paris ; its cafes, in the manner of those of the Palais Royal; a palace-garden, which pretends to a similarity with that of the Tuileries ; and miniature Boulevards around the town. Brussels abounds in English in search of cheapness, which their presence has banished. From the long sojourn of so many of our countrymen, the English language is very generally spoken, from the landlord of the hotels down to the shoeblack in the streets. The Park is a considerable enclosure in the higher town, forming the interior of a large square, laid out with avenues of trees, shady walks, and verdant turf, and ornamented with statues ; serving as a promenade to the inhabitants, who are indebted to the Empress Maria Theresa for it. The most fashionable evening walk is on the 1, of the en- trance to the Place Royale, The park was the scene of the principal combat during the revolution of 1830. It was occupied by the Dutch troops, and the trees still bear marks of the wounds they then received, The H6tel de Bellevue, standing between the Place Eoyale, where the Belgian insurgents were posted, and the Park, was the centre of action, and was riddled with shot. Among the buildings which form the sides of this square, and which im- mediately overlook the Park, are — The King's Palace; it has nothing very remarkable without or within. It is furnished in a costly manner, as palaces usually are ; and those to whom suites of splendid apartments, and a few pictures of no great value, by David, &c, are an attraction, may ob- tain permission to see the interior when the royal family is absent, though with difficulty. Near to it is the Palace of the Prince of Orange (the late King of Holland), erected at the cost of the city of Brus- sels, and presented to the Prince. The building was finished and inhabited only one year before the revolution of 1830 broke out. The fine collections of pictures and furniture have been re- moved and sold. The Chambers of Representatives, or Palais de la Nation, built by Maria Theresa for the meetings of the Council of Brabant, are situated Rue de la Loi, at the end of the Park, facing the Boyal Palace ; within theyresemble the French Chambers at Paris previous to 1848. There is nothing to particularise in them, except perhaps 3 pictures by modem artists — the commencement of the Belgian Trois Jours of 1830, by Wappers; the Battle of "Woeringen, by De Keyzer ; and the Battle of "Waterloo. Ladies, as well as gentlemen, are ad- mitted during the debates. The en- trance is behind, in the Rue de l'Oran- gerie. In the Place Royale stands a spirited bronze equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, by M. Simonis, erected in 1848. It was cast at Paris by Soyer. In one of the last houses in the Rue Ragule, near the Porte de Schaerbeck, the Duchess of Richmond gave the grand ball to the Duke of "Wellington and his officers on the eve of Waterloo (June 15, 1815), which the Duke would not allow to be put off, although he had previously heard of the advance of Na- poleon. The Museum, in the Old Palace, for- merly the residence of the Spanish and Austrian Governors of the Low Coun- tries, and before that of the Dukes of Brabant, and now called Palais des Beaux Arts, contains — 1st. The Picture Gallery. Here are 7 works reputed to BRHTS8E1L H Refer ences 1 King's Palace — - Dr 2 Palace of Pr. or Orange Df 3 Chamber of -Representf- Ff 4 Place des Martyrs F d b Museum, Hd, 6 Palais d Industrie ... D e 7 Hotel deViOe . E t- 8 JSroodhuis or Ma/son da Roi . E d 9 Church of StCudjule F e. 10 Church of Kotre Danie Dd 11 Palais de Justice ~Dd 12 Prison des Petits Cannes ... C e 13 Palais d\Aremberg C e 14 Place die Petit Sab Ion, C e 15 Porte de Hal Ac 16 University Ee 17 Theatre Royal E d 18 Tlieatre du Pare ..Ef 19 Post Office F d q ood e -H J. &C Walker Sadp. Iklgium. route 23. — Brussels, museum. librarV. 157 be by Rubens, mostly inferior to those at Antwerp, and probably executed by his pupils. They are, however, not deficient in many traces of his trans* cendent power. Among them arc, The Martyrdom of St. Lieven — a Coronation of the Virgin — Adoration of the Magi — Christ falling under the Cross — a Dead Christ at the Sepulchre — Christ armed ■with Thunder to destroy the World; an exMavnirant and unchristian allegory. " Christ, with Jupiter's thunder and lightning in his hand, denouncing ven- geance on s wicked world, represented by a glohe lying on the ground with the serpent twined round it : this globe St. Francis appears to he covering and defending with his mantle. The Virgin is holding Christ's hand, and showing her hreasts; implying, as I suppose, the right she has to intercede and have an interest with him whom she suokled. The Christ, which is ill drawn, in an attitude affectedly contrasted, is the most ungracious figure that can be imagined : the best part of the picture is the head of St. Francis."—^. The Assumption of the Virgin : — li The prin- cipal figure, the Virgin, is the worst in the composition, both in regard to the character of the countenance, the drawing of the figure, and even its colour; for she is dressed, not in what is the fixed dress of the Virgin, blue and red, but entirely in a colour be- tween blue and red, heightened with white ; and this coming on a white glory gives a deadness to that part of the picture. The Apostles and the two women are in Rubens' s best manner. The angels are beautifully coloured, and unite with the sky in perfect har- mony ; the masses of light and shade are conducted with the greatest judg- ment; and, excepting the upper part, where the Virgin is, it is one of Rubens's rich pictures."— A'. De Crai/er, St. Peter Fishing. P. Ncefs, Interior of Antwerp Cathedral. Ger. Dmm, a small candlelight piece, very capital. The number of pictures here exceeds 300 : the had preponderate much over the 1 ; and the whole collection is far inferior to that at Antwerp ; but it is full of instruction, and contains the works of some early Flemish masters that can nowhere be found in equal excellence. Several v«ry fine paint- ings, purchased by flu; government at the Kiii»' of Holland's sale, have, however, recently been added to the collection. Bernard van Orley, The body of Christ, mourned over by his friends and by the women, one of his best works. " It has a great nature, but is hard, as the whole picture is in a dry Gothic style." — R. In the fatal bombardment of Brussels on the 20th of August, 1G95, by the French under Marshal Villeroy, there were de- stroyed, in less than 48 hours, several thousand houses and 14 churches, the latter adorned with some of the finest works of Rubens, Vandyck, and other eminent painters, which thus perished is the flames, or were buried in the ruins. In the ante-rooms are speci- mens of the modem Belgian School of Art, very well worthy of attention, especially the works of Wappers, Gallait, de Keyzer, Verboekhoven — The Sheepcot in a Storm, Le Poitecen, de Caisne, &c. The collections of painting and na- tural history are open to the public Sun., Wed., ? and Thurs. A stranger will gain admittance at all times by feeing the porter. There is also a cu- rious collection of models of engines, sluice-gates, machinery, &e. 2nd. The Bitrgundian Library, under the same roof as the gallery, contains 18,000 MSS., &c, of great interest and value. They were collected at a very early period by the Dukes of Burgundy ; many are richly adornod with precious miniature paintings of the greatest beauty by the scholars of Van Eyck. The Chronicle of Ilainault, consisting of 17 folio volumes, illuminated, de- serves particular notice ; also the Missal of Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary, and the Psalter of Louis de Male. This collection has been twice carried off to Paris by the French as the spoil! of war. This library has been united to the Royal library, which was formed in 1837 by the union of the libraries of the state and of the town of Iirussels with that of Van Hulteni, which Mas purchased for 315,000 francs. It con- tains 800,000 vols, of printed hooks. The library is open every day except L References I Kilty's Paliue - Palace of Pr. ot' O range ... 3 Chamber ot' RcprcsctU? Ft' 4 Place des Martyrs Fd :> Museum r>d 6 Palais d lndushie J) t . - /!,■/<■/ da rdle ....... E c 8 Broodlmis or Maison du Itoi E d !) Church of S'Cudide p 10 Church of Noire- Dome Tid 11 I'atais de Justice J},/ 12 Prison das i'etits Carinas C e 13 Palais d' Arctubcrg c t 11 Place du I't-lit Sablon Q v 1C> Porte de Hal \ c 16 rutversity F. c 17 Theatre Royal Fd 18 Tlieatre du Pare Er' 1!> Pusi Office F d n ,2Q Place des H.urieades / Published In Join, Murray Albemarle Street London 1819 X/tCWalktrSf 158 ROUTE 23. BRUSSELS. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. II. Sun. from 9 to 3. Nothing can exceed the comfort of the reading-room. 3rd. The Museum of Natural History, on the lower story of the same build- ing, is probably the most complete in Belgium. The zoological department includes many specimens brought from the Dutch East Indian colonies. That of mineralogy is enriched by an in- teresting collection of Eussian minerals presented by the late Queen of Holland. The specimens of chromate of lead and malachite are fine. There is a very com- plete series of the volcanic products of Ve- suvius, and of the fossils of Maestricht. This building serves likewise as a College, and public lectures, instituted by government, are given daily, at par- ticular seasons, in various branches of science, literature, and art, to which all persons are admitted gratis. In the courtyard is preserved the inscription from the monument of Lipsius. The Palais d' Industrie, opposite the Ch. of St. Jacques Caudenberg, 1., in the corner, is appropriated to an exhi- bition, every 4 years, of the products of national arts and manufactares. It contains an incipient collection of an- tiques, some old armour, the cradle of Charles V., a font from Tirlemont (date 1149), &c. The Hotel de Ville, in the Grande Place, is the grandest of those munici- pal palaces which are found in almost every city of the Netherlands, and no- where else of the same splendour. The part S.E. of the tower was begun 1401. The beautiful tower, of Gothic open work, 364 ft. high, was built by Jan van Ruysbrock, the architect of the first portion, in 1444. It originally stood at the end of the building: the wing to the N/VV. of the tower was added about the end of the cent. It differs in length and otherwise mate- rially from the older wing, but not so as to destroy the effect of the whole. The guilt copper figure of St. Michael on the top, which serves as a weather- cock, and turns with the wind, is 17 ft. high. The abdication of Charles V. (1555) took place in the Old Ducal Palace, which stood on the site of the Place Roy ale, burnt down in 1733, and not, as is often said, in this town-hall. That event is depicted on tapestries pre- served here, but, as the interior suffered sad spoliation and wanton destruction of its carvings and ornamental work during the first French revolution, it- contains little worth notice. The market-place, in front of it, is lined with picturesque old houses, most of which were the halls of various Cor- porations and Guilds. Here the Counts Egmont and Horn were beheaded, by order of the cruel Alva, in 1568. They passed the night preceding their deaths in the old Gothic house opposite, called the Broodhuis, or liaison du Roi (built 1525), which once served the purpose of Hotel de Ville. Alva, it is said, looked on while the execution was going forward, from a window in the building. The Collegiate Ch. of St. Gudule, the finest in Brussels, is a handsome Gothic edifice, in which chapters of the order of the Golden Fleece were held by Philip the Good in 1435, and by Charles V. in 1516. The existing choir and transepts were finished in 1273, the nave in the 14th cent., and the towers in 1518. The outside was well restored in 1843. The proper dedica- tion is to the " Saints Michel et Gu- dule," but, as in many similar cases, the female saint has eclipsed the arch- angel. It is remarkable for the beauti- ful painted glass in its windows, especi- ally those by Roger van der Weyde in the great N. chapel of the St. Sacre- ment des Miracles, including portraits of sovereigns and princes of the 16th cent., by whom they were presented : 2 are dated 1546, and 2 1547. The N. and S. windows of the transept are of 1557, the W. window 1528. Within the choir are cenotaphs, erected in 1610 to John II., Duke of Brabant (1512), and Margaret his wife, Duchess of York ; and one of the Archduke John (1596). A tablet of white marble covers the entrance to the vault of the royal family of Austria. In the chapel of the Virgin, S. aisle, is a statue, by Geefs, of a Count Merode, a hero or martyr of the revolution of 1830. He is re- presented in marble, wearing a blouse, the costume in which he was shot, wounded, and holding a pistol ! The statues of the 12 Apostles placed against Belgium, ROUTE 23. BRUSSELS. CHURCHES, ETC. 159 the pillars in the nave are partly by Duqucsnoy. The carved pulpit (called Chaire do la Verite) is generally con- Eddered the masterpiece of Verbrug- gcn. It represents Adam and Eve driven out of Paradise by the angel, who appear! on one side of the globe wielding the pagan thunderbolt of Ju- piter, while Death glides round with his dart from the opposite side. The pulpit itself is in the hollow of the globe, which is supported on the tree of know- ledge of good and evil, and the tree of life, teeming with fruit, and with vari- ous animals perched on their branches. At the side of Adam arc the ostrich and eagle, while in satirical vicinity to Eve appear the peacock, the ape, and the parrot. Above the canopy stands the Virgin holding the infant Saviour, whom she is assisting to thrust the extremity of the cross into the serpent's head. It was executed for the church of the Jesuits at Louvain : on the suppression of the order Maria Theresa gave it in 1776 to this church. In the chapel, called St. Sacrement des Miracles, are deposited the Miracu- lous Wafers, said to have been stolen from the altar at the instigation of a sacrilegious Jew, and subjected to in- sults by himself and his brethren assem- bled in their synagogue. To add to the sacrilege, the day chosen for this outrage was Good Friday. When the scoffers proceeded so far as to stick their knives into the wafers, jets of blood burst forth from the woimds, and by a second miracle they were struck sense- less. They were then denounced by one of the pretended spectators, who had been converted to Christianity, and were seized and put to death by the most cruel torments, having their flesh torn off by hot irons before they were burnt at the stake. This took place about the end of the 14th cent., and it proves that the Jews at Brussels must then have been so numerous and wealthy as to have been worth plundering. The miracle is one of many similar tales in- vented by those who took advantage of the superstition of the age, and the general hatred of the race of Israel, to incite the populace to deeds of cruelty, Which enabled them to enrich them- selves with the confiscated goods of the unbelievers. This triumph of the faith, as it is called, is celebrated once a year, on the Sunday following the L5th of July, in the enlightened city of Iirussels, by a solemn procession of the clergy, and by the exhibition of the identical miraculous wafers. A little book con- taining an authorised version of the story may be purchased at the church ! A beau- tiful modern carved wood altar has been set up in the chapel. It cost 1000/. The Ch. of Notre Dame de la Chapel Ic, in the Rue Haute, which may be called a fine church in a city where there is little ecclesiastical architecture, con- tains a picture by Crayer, Jesus appear- ing to Mary Magdalen ; a singular pxilpit, representing Elijah comforted by an Angel, under a canopy of Palm Trees ; the tomb of the painter Breughel, and a small paltry tablet to his memory ; besides which, on the left of the high altar, there is the more pretending mo- nument of the family Spinola. In the Palais de Justice, formerly a monastery of the Jesuits, a poor build- ing in the Square du Grand Sablon, are 2 fine works of the modern Belgian School, — the Abdication of Charles V., by Gallait, and the Signing of the Com- promise or Request, by JJiefce. The Prison des Petits Cannes, near the square called Petit Sablon, stands on the site of the Hotel de Cuylem- bourg, memorable as the place of meet- ing of the Protestant Confederates in the reign of Philip II., who were the means of delivering the United Pro- vinces from the yoke of Spain. On this spot (1566) they drew up the famous petition to the Vice-queen Margaret of Parma, caUed the " Bequest." At the moment when it was presented one of the courtiers was overheard to whisper in the ear of Margaret, who was rather abashed by the sudden appearance of the petitioners, " not to be annoyed by such a parcel of beggars" (hueux). The leaders of the confederates, hearing of this, and feeling that an epithet given to those who came forward in defence of their country and liberties, though meant as a reproach, became by its ap- plication a title of honour, determined at once to adopt it as their nom degmrr*. 160 ROUTE 23. — BRUSSELS. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. Sect. II. The same evening, when they met at supper, some of them appeared on the balcony of the hotel, with a beggar's wallet at their back and a porringer (jatte) in their hand, out of which they drank success to the Gueux! The spark thus lighted was soon blown into a flame, and this is commonly consi- dered one of the leading events of that revolution which, in a few years, dis- possessed the House of Spain of the dominion of the Low Countries. Alva wreaked his blind vengeance on the building where the meetings were held, by levelling it with the ground. The Palais d'Aremberg, 17, Place du Petit Sablon, furnished with great splen- dour, contains a small but choice gal- lery chiefly of Dutch and Flemish masters : among them an interior by de Hooghe ; Tobias' Cure, Rembrandt ; Marriage in Cana, Jan Steen ; and a beautiful Paul Potter ; a choice collec- tion of Etruscan antiquities, and much fine old furniture. In the library is an antique head, asserted to be that of the famous Laocoon, or at least of a statue similar to that in the Vatican. The Palace is shown in the absence of the family, and is well worth seeing ; so are the Gardens. The Picture Gallery of the Prince de Ligne is not readily shown. The Studios of Geefs, the sculptor, Rue du Palais, and of Verboekhoven, the painter, Eue Royale Exterieure, may be visited with pleasure. The Porte de Hal, a large and Gothic gateway now standing alone, the only relic of the old fortifications, erected 1381, was Alva's Bastille during his bloody persecutions of the Protestants. It is now used as a Museum for a very interesting and well-arranged collection of ancient armour. It is in front of this building that criminals are guillotined. The University, Rue des Sols, was originally Cardinal Grandvella's Palace. The square called Place des Martyrs (Martelaers Plaets) contains a large monument erected over the grave of more than 300 of the " braves Beiges " who were killed in the last revolution, Sept. 1830. It consists of a marble statue of Liberty on a pedestal, with a kneeling Genius in each of the 4 cor- ners, by Geefs. Below and around it runs a sort of subterranean gallery or cata- comb, in which the slain are interred. Brussels is the birthplace of Vesalius, the anatomist, to whom a statue in bronze has been erected in the Place des Barricades ; of Van Helmont, the chemist ; of Margaret of Austria, Gou- vernante of the Low Countries, daughter of the Empr. Maximilian ; of the painters Bernard van Orley, Philip de Cham- pagne, and van der Meulen; of the sculptor Duquesnoy. The Theatre, in the Place de la Mon- naie, is generally well conducted ; the performances are good, and the edifice itself handsome. It is open every day : admission to 1st and 2nd loges, 5 fr. and 4 fr. ; gallery and parquet, 3 fr. 50 c. ; parterre, 1 fr. 60 c. Theatre des JSou- veautes, on the Boulevard de Laeken ; Theatre du Vaudeville, Rue del'Eveque. There is also a smaller Theatre in the Parh, in which vaudevilles are per- formed Saturday and Sunday. Cafe's. — The best are— Cafe Suisse ; des Mille Colonnes, in the Place de la Monnaie ; and Des Trois Suisses. Restaurants ; Du Bos, Rue Fosse aux Loups ; reputed good, but dear. Dubos, Rue de la Putterie (No. 23) ; a very good dinner, a la carte, 2 fr. and 3 fr. a head. Les Freres Provenceaux, Longue Rue de l'Ecuier, is much cele- brated. The best ice is to be had at Velloni's, in the Park, near the Theatre. Fiacres. — The fare is 2 fr. 1st hr. ; 1| fr. after ; or 1± fr. for any distance within the town. Cabs ( Vigilantes) cost 1J fr. the 1st hr., and 1 fr. for a drive. A valet de place expects 4 fr. per diem here and elsewhere in Belgium. Post Office in the Rue de la Montagne, not far from St. Gudule. Poste restante open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Letters unpaid may now be posted for England at any of the branch offices before 5 p.m. Passports are vise at the Ministere de Justice, Rue de la Regence, close to the Place Royale. The English Minister lives outside the Porte Leopold, and the Prussian Embassy is in the Rue des Petits Cannes, No. 39. The signatures of both must be obtained in order to enter Rhenish Prussia. The Prussian Minister will not viser a Belgian pass- port for a British subject. In order to Belgium. route 23. — Brussels, lace. promenades. 161 obtain his signature, a traveller who has provided himself with a Belgian passport on ([Hitting- London will have to exchange it for an English one at tlie British Embassy. Railroads. — Northern line (Antwerp, Ostend, Liege). Terminus, Station du Nord, at tlie end of Longue RuoNeuve. Southern line (Namur, Mons,Va- lenoiennes). Terminus, Station dti Midi, near the Church of N. D. do Bon Sccours. Omnibuses run from different parts of the town, calling at the chief hotels to convey passengers to the railroads. Diligences daily to Louvain. Booksellers. — Muquardt, 11, Place Royale, has a reading-room for English and foreign newspapers, and an English circulating library. N.B. — Belgian and French editions of English books are now absolutely prohibited at the British Custom-house. The best shops arc for the most part in the Rue Montagnc de la Cour and Rue de la Madeleine. The Gallerie St. Hubert, extending from the March e aux Herbes to the Rue de l'Eveque, is an extremely hand- some arcade, or street glazed over. The most remarkable manufacture at Brussels is that of Lace, celebrated all over the world. The peculiarity, in addition to the fineness, which distin- guishes it, is, that the patterns are Worked separately with the most mi- croscopic minuteness, and are afterwards sewed on. The flax employed in the manufacture grows near Hal ; the best comes from a place called Rebecque. The finest sort costs from 300 fr. to 400 fr. per lb., and is worth its weight in g< ild ; everything depends on the tenuity of the fibre. % yard (English) of the finest and most expensive kind of lace costs 150 fr. ; but a very good sort is sold for 50 fr., and the prices of some arc as low as 10 fr. per aune. It is said that the persons who spin the thread for Brussels lace, and also for the French cambric (batiste) of St. Quentin, are obliged to work in con- fined dark rooms, into which light is admitted only partially by a small aper- ture ; and that, by being thus compelled to pay more constant and minute atten- tion to their work, they discipline the eye, and attain the (acuity of spinning the flax of that web-like fineness which constitutes the excellence of these 2 fabrics. Very good carriages are made here, about two-thirds cheaper, though not equal in excellence to the English. M. Simon, in the Rue Royale, near the Gate of Schaerbeck, is recommended as the most eminent coachmaker. Money Changers. — Mcssel, 70, Rue dc la Madeleine. Yates, Mont, de la Cour. There are two Chapels in which the English Church service is performed every Sunday : one close to the Museum ; the other on the Boulevard de l'Observa- toire. Service at the Chapel Royale, Rue du Musee, at 9 a.m. and 2\ p.m. ; at the Chapel on the Boulevard dc rObservatoire, 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. The shortest way to England. — London may be reached via, Ostend and Dover in 12 hrs. The steamers now go daily from Ostend to Dover. See p. 119. To reach Calais by railway takes 8 or 10 hrs. The principal Promenades, besides the Park, mentioned before, arc the Boule- vards, extending nearly round the town; the most fashionable and fre- quented being those de Waterloo, du Regent, and de l'Observatoire, between the gates of Schaerbeck and d' Anvers ; — an entirely New Quarter (Quartier Leopold) has sprung up between the Portes de Louvain and de Namur ; — the Botanic Garden, near the Porte de Schaerbeck, which is very prettily laid out, and is open to the public Tues., Thurs., Sat., from 10 to 3 ; — and the Alle'e Verte, a treble avenue of lime- trees by the side of the canal lead- ing to Mechlin, which were spared by Marshal Saxc, at the entreaty of the ladies of Brussels, when he besieged the town 1746. Excursions may bo made from Brussels to — Laeken (p. 155). A fiacre costs 5 fr. to go and return, provided it be not detained more than 2 hrs. Laeken is a railway station. From the fields near Laeken is the best view of Brussels. The Excursion to Waterloo (see Rte. 24) will occupy about 8 hrs., allowing 3 hrs. for the horses to rest and for surveying the field. A carriage with 162 ROUTE 24. BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. WATERLOO. Sect. II. 2 horses (voiture de remise), to go and return, ought not to cost more than 20 fr., driver and turnpikes included. A vigilante (cab) may be hired for 10 fr. It is necessary to stipulate that you shall be taken to Mont St. Jean and Hougoumont ; or, what is better, let the agreement be to convey you to any part of the field you please, otherwise you will be set down at the village of Waterloo, 2 m. short of the most in- teresting points in the field of battle, or be compelled to pay 2 or 3 fr. extra for going farther. The hire of a saddle- horse ought not to exceed 8 or 10 fr. The field of Waterloo is 12^ m. from Brussels, a drive of about 2 hrs. The high road to Namur and Liege (Bte. 24) runs through Waterloo, and across the field of battle. The Nivelles diligence traverses it daily to and fro ; those to Namur are given up. There is also a stage-coach daily from Brussels. Fare to Waterloo and back, 5 fr. EOUTE 24. BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY WATERLOO AND NAMUR. — DESCENT OF THE MEUSE, NAMUR TO MAESTRICHT. To Liege 16 posts == 78 Eng. m. The quickest way to Liege is by the Railroad through Louvain (Bte. 26), and to Namur by the railroad through Hal (B. 28) ; but the following road pos- sesses the recommendation of passing by Waterloo and the beautiful valley of the Meuse. Diligence to Nivelles daily. Near the village of Ixelles a good view of Brussels and of the country far and wide is obtained, on which account it is a crowded place of resort with the citizens upon Sundays. About 2 m. from Brussels the road enters or skirts the Forest of Soigne, or Soignies, now much curtailed and partly converted into cornfields. Byron, by a poetical licence, has identified it with the ancient Forest of Ardennes. The march of the British troops through it, on their way to the battle, is described by him in these beautiful lines : — " Ardennes waves above them her green leaves, Dewy with nature's tear-drops, as they pass, Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves, Over the unreturning brave, — alas ! Ere evening to be trodden like the grass Which now beneath them, but above shall grow In its next verdure, when this fiery mass Of living valour, rolling on the foe, And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low." The forest is about 9 m. long and 1\ broad. 2 Waterloo. — Inn : H. de TAr- genteuil. This village, on the outskirts of the forest, about 10 m. from Brussels, was the head-quarters of the English army on the days before and following the battle to which it has given its name (June 17 and 19, 1815). The Duke's quarters were in the Post-house opposite the church. Here, after 16 hrs. in the saddle, he dismounted from his faithful steed Copenhagen (long afterwards a pensioner in the paddocks of Stratfieldsaye), and the spirited ani- mal, conscious of the termination of his labours, is stated to have kicked out in a manner which had nearly proved fatal to his rider. The moment a traveller comes in sight of Waterloo he will be assailed by guides and relic-venders, claiming the honour of serving him in the capa- city of guide. The only mode of ap- peasing the clamours, and rescuing him- self from the annoyance, is to fix upon one or other, informing him at the same time what will be his remuneration. 3 or 4 francs will be enough for his services over the whole field ; but if this be not settled beforehand, he will not hesitate to demand at least double. English travellers seeking a guide to the Field may safely resort to Serjt. Mun- day, late of the 7th Hussars, who lives half way between the village and the Field of Waterloo. He may also be heard of at the Waterloo Museum, formed by the late Serjt. Cotton opposite the H6tel de la Colonne, which contains some really interesting objects. The best Belg. guides are Martin Yiseur, Martin Pirson, Jean Jacques Pierson, and Jacques Deligne; the last and Viseur speak English. The little Church and churchyard of I Waterloo are crowded with melancholy | memorials of English officers : they con- tain nearly 30 tablets and monuments to those who fell. Belgium. ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. 163 " Many a wounded Hriton there was Laid, With such poor help as time mi^ht then allow From the fresh carnage of the field convey'd ; And they whom human succours could not save Here in its precincts found a hasty grave. And here on marble tablets set on high, In English lines by foreign workmen trac'd, Are names familiar to an English eye ; Their brethren here the fit memorials plac'd, Whose unadorn'd inscriptions briefly tell Their gallant comrades' rank, and where they fell." Southey. Among the curiosities of Waterloo, to the examination of which the most strenuous persuasion is used to invite the passing stranger, is the grave of the Marquis of Anglesea's leg, and the house in which it was cut off, and where the hoot belonging to it is preserved ! The owner of the house to whose share this relic has fallen finds it a most lucrative source of revenue, and will, in spite of the absurdity of the thing, probably bequeath it to his children as a valuable property. He has interred the leg most decorously within a coffin, under a weeping willow, and has honoured it with a monument and an epitaph. Waterloo is now nearly joined to Mont St. Jean, a long straggling village (the Hotels are decent little Inns), though once almost a mile from it, and lying on the edge of the field of battle. Here the road divides : the branch on the rt. leads to Nivellcs ; the other, continuing straight on, is the high road to Gcnappe and Namur. Travellers not strong a-foot ought not to leave their carriage at Waterloo, or even at Mont St. Jean, as it is still a mile short of the centre of the field, and this mile will considerably increase the long walk which they must at any rate take in order to see the ground to advantage. It is more prudent to drive on to Hou- goumont, 1J m. If the traveller in- tend to proceed on to Namur, and not to return to Brussels, the carriage must stop at La Belle Alliance, which is a sorry kind of public-house. Leafing the village of Mont St. Jean, the road reaches an open country, almost entirely without trees; it ascends a gentle rise, and passes the large farm- house with offices called Ferme do Mont St. Jean, which during the battle was filled with wounded British, and served a§ a sort of hospital. The Mound sur- mounted by the Belgic Lion, by far the most conspicuous object in the field of Waterloo, now appears in sight. It marks the spot which may be consi- dered the centre of the conflict. The field had been examined by the Duke of Wellington in the previous year. In a " Memorandum on the de- fence of the frontier of the Netherlands," addressed to Lord Bathurst, 22nd Sept. 1814, he says, "About Nivellc, and between that and Binch, there are many advantageous positions for an army, and the entrance to the foret do Soignies by the high road which leads to Brussels from Binch, Charleroi, and Namur, would, if worked upon, afford others." — Despatches, xii. 129. Though not a strong position, it was the best between Qnatre Bras and Brussels available for the protection of that capital. On arriving at the end of this ascent, the traveller finds himself on the brow of a hill or ridge extending on the rt. and 1. of the road, with a gentle hol- low or shallow valley before him, and another ascent and nearly correspond- ing ridge beyond it. Along the ridge on which he stands the British army was posted, while the position of the French was along the opposite heights. The road on which we are travelling intersected the 2 armies, or, so to speak, separated the 1. wing of the British and rt. wing of the French from the main bodies of their respective armies. To render the declivity more gradual, the road has been cut through the crest of the ridge several feet deep, so as to form a sort of hollow way. At this point 2 Monuments have been erected close to the roadside ; that on the right ( 4 in the plan), a pillar to the memory of Col. Gordon, bearing a most touching epi- taph, well worth perusal ; that on the left ( 5 ), an obelisk in honour of the Hanoverian officers of the German Legion who fell on the spot. Hereabouts the high road is traversed nearly at right angles by a small country cross-road. During the first part of the action the Duke of Welling- ton stood in the angle formed by the crossing of these 2 roads, and on the rt. of the highway, at a little distance from a solitary elm (> in the plan), 164 ROUTE 24.— WATERLOO. Sect. n. Belgium. called the Wellington Tree, from an unfounded report that the Duke had placed himself beneath it during the action. The Duke knew bettor than to post himself and his staff elose to an object which must inevitably serve as a mark for the enemy to fire at. Upon the strength of this story, however, the elm, after being mutilated and stripped hy relic-hunters, was cut down and sold, some time after the battle, to an Englishman. About half-way down in the hollow which separated the 2 armies, and in which the most bloody combats took place, is the Farm of La Ilaye Sainte ( 6 ) ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. 165 tinte (*) rt. It close to the roadside on the rt. It was occupied by the soldiers of the German Legion, and gallantly defended till their ammunition was exhausted, when they were literally cut to pieces : the French " got possession of it about 2 o'clock, from a circumstance which is to be attributed to the neglect of the officer commanding on the spot, and were never removed from thence till I commenced the attack in the evening ; but they never advanced further on that side." — Despatches, xii. 610. A terrible carnage took place in the house and garden, and the building was riddled with shot. Close to this house a spot is shown as the grave of Shaw the valorous Life- guardsman, who killed 9 Frenchmen with his own hand in the battle. Not far off, on the opposite side of the road, a vast accumulation of bodies of men, intermixed with horses, were buried in one common grave. It was near this spot that the brave General Ficton was killed, and Colonel Ponsonby wounded. 5 Scotch regiments were engaged in this part of the fight. If we now proceed across the valley and up the opposite slope, we reach the farm of La Belle Alliance, a solitary white house, on the 1. of the road ( 7 ), now a poor public-house. It was occu- pied by the French, whose lines were drawn up close behind it; though towards the end of the engagement Napoleon in person marshalled his im- perial guards in front of it for the final charge. Napoleon's place of observa- tion during a great part of the battle was nearly on a line with La Hello Alliance, at some distance on the rt. of the road. The Prussians have erected a cast-iron monument ( 9 ) at a short dis- tance on the left, in memory of their fellow-countrymen who fell here. Their loss in the battle amounted to nearly 7000 ; it occurred chiefly in the vicinity of Planchenoit, a village on the 1. of the road, beyond La Belle Alliance, which was stormed and retaken 3 times. It has been erroneously stated that Bliicher met the Duke after the battle at La Belle Alliance; but the fact is, that he did not overtake the Duke till he was 2 m. beyond the field, at Maison Eouge, or Maison du Roi, on the road to Genappo. Here the Duke gave orders for the halt of his troops. In spite of the fatigues of the day, he had pursued the French in person till long after dark ; and when Colonel Harvey, who accompanied him, pointed out the danger he ran of being fired at by strag- glers from behind the hedges, he ex- claimed, "Let them fire away: the victory is gained, and my life is of no value now." A little way beyond La Belle Al- liance is the house of Coster ( 8 ), Na- poleon's guide (since dead) ; and near this spot a glimpse may be had of the farm of Hougournont, 1 m. off on the rt. Gros Caillou ( ,0 ), a farm-house in which Napoleon slept, was bmnt in consequence by the Prussians next day, to show their hati-ed of their enemy. The foregoing enumeration of the various localities of the field has been made in the order in which a traveller would pass them in following the high road from Brussels. If he intend to turn aside and examine the field more minutely, the following description may assist him : — The Mound of the Belijic Lion ( 8 ) is by far the best station for surveying the field. It is a vast tumulus, '2<>0 ft. high, beneath which the bones of friends and foes lie heaped indiscriminately together. A flight of Steps leads up to the top. The lion was cast by Cockeril] of Liege, and is intended to stand on the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded. "The mound and the lion have 166 ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. Sect. II. equally been the subject of ill-natured censures, but would appear appropriate enough, since they serve at once as a memorial, a trophy, and a tomb." — Family Tour. The present appearance of the field differs considerably from what it was at the time of the battle, owing to the exca- vation made along the front of the British position, to obtain earth for this arti- ficial mound. The ridge of Mont St. Jean has been considerably reduced in height ; and the spot where the Duke of Wellington stood is quite cut away ; the ground near being lowered several feet by the removal of the earth. From the top of the Mound it will be perceived that the ground is a per- fectly open and undulating plain. The British force was disposed in 2 lines along one of these undulations : the foremost line occupied the brow of the eminence, and was partly protected by a hedge, running from Mont St. Jean to Ohain, which gave the name to the farm of La Haye Sainte ( 6 ) ; the second stood a little way behind, on the re- verse of the slope, so as to be partly sheltered from the enemy's fire. The British were separated by the shallow valley above mentioned — varying from 500 to 800 yards in breadth — from the French, who were posted on the oppo- site ridge. The situation of both armies was in many parts within point blank range of their opponents' artillery. The position of the British from rt. to 1. did not much exceed a mile and a half, — " small theatre for such a tra- gedy ;" yet on this limited front did its commander place and manoeuvre an army of 54,000 men, a remarkable in- stance of concentration of force. It was drawn up in a sort of curve, to suit the ground along the heights, and the rt. wing extended as far as Merbe Braine. The rt flank of the centre stood 400 yards behind the house of Hougoumont ( 3 ), which was very strongly occupied ; the 1. of the centre was posted at a considerable distance behind the farm-house of La Haye Sainte if), which stood nearly midway between the 2 armies, and was also occupied and fortified as well as its small size and the time would admit. The distance between the 2 farms of Hougoumont and La Haye Sainte is 1 300 yards. The French columns could not pass between them without being- exposed to a flank fire, nor did Napo- leon think it prudent to leave 2 such posts in his rear in the possession of his enemy ; and his first efforts, previous to advancing against the English line, were to make himself master of them. The British army remained during the whole day firm in its position ; and, formed into squares, received on this ridge, in front, and on each side of the ground now occupied by the Mound, the furious charges of the French cavalry, who were on the plateau be- tween the 2 high roads nearly J hr., all firing having ceased on both sides. At the time of the appearance of the Prussians not a square had been broken or shaken ; the British had not swerved an inch backwards, but were rather in advance of their first position. The Duke says, writing to Lord Beresford, July 2, 1815, " Napoleon did not man- oeuvre at all. He just moved for- ward in the old style in columns, and was driven off in the old style. The only difference was, that he mixed cavalry with his infantry, and sup- ported both with an enormous quantity of artillery. I had the infantry for some time in squares, and we had the French cavalry walking about as if they had been our own. I never saw the British infantry behave so well." Far on the L, in the direction of Wavre, are seen the woods through which the Prussians first advanced to the battle. The Chateau of Hougoumont or Gou- mont ( 3 ), about 3^ m. from "Waterloo ch., 1^ m. from Mont St. Jean, 'and § m. from La Haye Sainte, is decid- edly the most interesting spot in the field of Waterloo, not only for its importance in the history of the bat- tle, but because it still exhibits marks of the dreadful conflict. It formed, in fact, the key of the British position, and the possession of it would have enabled Napoleon to turn the English flank. It was on this account that he directed his utmost efforts towards it. At least 12,000 men, commanded by his Belgium. ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. 167 brother Jerome, were brought at dif- ferent linns against it, and t Ho fierce attacks continue^ with hardly any in- termission during the whole of the day. It was an old-fashioned Flemish cha- teau, with walled gardens and farm offices attached to it. Had these build- ings been formed for a fortress to resist the kind of assault which they endured, they coidd scarcely have possessed greater advantages ; being surrounded on all sides by strong Walls, which the Duke himself caused to be further for- tified by breaking loopholes in them, through which the garrison, if it may be so called, directed the fire of their musketry. But, notwithstanding its strength, so furious were the attacks,, and so disproportionably great the num- ber of assailants, that it could not pos- sibly have held out, but for the bravery of the troops by whom it was main- tained. The wood, orchard, and kitchen- garden were several times in the pos- session of the French, but they never succeeded in forcing the walled enclo- sures which surrounded the house. This little citadel, though set on fire by the howitzers and almost gutted by the flames, was maintained to the last by the Coidstream Guards. At the beginning of the battle the house stood in the centre of a wood ; but the trees were so mutilated by can- non-shot during the action, that few remain. The old house set on fire by French shells has been entirely re- moved ; some of the outhouses, how- ever, still exhibit a shattered and patched-up appearance ; and the walls of the orchard retain the loopholes formed by the English ; whilst on the outside they present a broken surface crumbling to the touch, from the effect of the French musketry so long and vainly directed against them; the French, it is asserted, mistaking for some time the red brick wall for the English uniforms. " The Belgian yeo- man's garden wall was the safeguard of Europe, whose destinies hung on the possession of this house." In the little chape] is shown a crucifix, saved (as the peasants say) by miracle from the flames, which, alter destroying all about it, stopped on reaching the foot of the cross. The autographs of Byron, Southey, and Wordsworth, were once to be discovered among the names which cover the walls. Though it is not intended to give a history of the fight, the following addi- tional facts will not be inappropriately introduced here : — the force which Na- poleon brought into the field amounted, by his own confession, to nearly 75,000 men : 54,000 men composed the whole of the Duke of Wellington's army ac- tually engaged ; of these only 32,000 were British or of the German Legion. It has been often asserted, and is still believed by many, that the Duke of Wellington was taken by surprise at Waterloo, and that he first heard the news of the advance of the French in a ball-room. This is not the fact : the intelligence was brought to the Duke on June 15, by the Prince of Orange, who found him at within 100 yards of his quarters in the park at Brussels, about 3 o'clock ; and by 5 the same evening orders had been sent to all the divisions of the British army to break up their cantonments, and move on the 1. of Quatre Bras. A proposal was made to put off the ball intended to be given by the Duchess of Richmond that evening at Brussels ; but it was thought better to let it proceed, and thus to keep the inhabitants in ignorance of the course of events : the Duke therefore desired his principal officers to be pre- sent, but to take care to quit the ball- room as soon after 10 as possible: he himself stayed till 12, and set off for the army at 6 next morning. On the morn- ing of the 16th, the Duke, having finished the disposition of his forces, rode across the country to Bliicher, at Ligny, being unwilling to trust to any one the important point of concerting measures for the co-operation of the Prussians. Bliicher then promised to support him with 2 divisions of his army, in case Napoleon should direct his principal attack against the British. This fact is important, and not generally known. Another common error respect- ing this battle is, that the British were on the point of being defeated when the Prussians arrived : this is sufficiently refuted by the testimony of the Prussian 163 ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO TO NAMUR. Sect. II. general, Muffling, who expressly says that " the battle could have afforded no favourable result to the enemy, even if the Prussians had never come up." The Prussian army was expected to join the British at 2, but it appears from Blucher's despatch that it was half-past 4 before a gun was fired by them, and that it was half-past 7 before they were in sufficient force to make any impres- sion on the French rt. At that hour Napoleon had exhausted his means of attack. He had no force in reserve but the 4 battalions of the Old Guard. These gave way on the advance of the British line. The story of the Duke's having thrown himself into the middle of a square of infantry during the charges of the French cavalry is also a pure fiction. The fertility of the ground on which the battle was fought increased greatly for several years after it took place. Nowhere were richer crops produced in the whole of Belgium, and the com is said to have waved thickest, and to have been of a darker colour, over those spots where the dead were interred, so that in spring it was possible to dis- cover them by this mark alone. " But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree, Which living waves where thou didst cease to live, And saw around me the wide fields revive With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to contrive, With all her reckless birds upon the wing, I turn'd from all she brought to those she could not bring." Byron. " Was it a soothing or a mournful thought, Amid this scene of slaughter as we stood, Where armies had with recent fury fought, To mark how gentle nature still pursued Her quiet course, as if she took no care For what her noblest work had suffer'd there?" South ey. The stranger arriving at Waterloo is commonly set upon by a numerous horde of relic-hunters, who bother him to buy buttons and bullets. The fur- rows of the plough during many suc- ceeding springs laid bare numberless melancholy memorials of the fight — half-consumed rags, bullets corroded and shattered, fragments of accoutre- ments, bones and skulls ; but when the real articles failed, the vendors were at no loss to invent others ; so that there is little fear of the supply being ex- hausted. Beggars, too, a most perse- vering class of tormentors, beset every path, in many instances apparently Without the pretext of poverty. In 1705 the Duke of Marlborough was within an inch of fighting the French nearly on the same ground as Wellington. His head-quarters were at Frischermont, and the French were posted across the Brussels road. He was thwarted, however, by the pig- headed obstinacy or cowardice of the Dutch commissioners who accompanied his army. Waterloo to Namur. The part of Belgium through which our route lies has been called the "Cockpit" of Europe, and has been for ages the ground upon which the powers of Europe have decided their quarrels. Besides the fields of Water- loo and Quatre Bras, through which the road passes, Wavre, Fleurus, Ligny, and the little village of Bamillies, where Marlborough gained one of his most fa- mous victories over the French and Bava- rians, He within the province of Brabant, or only a short distance off our road. 1^ Genappe. — Inn : Hotel Martineau, indifferent, 17 m. from Brussels : 1800 inhab, It was on the road, a little way out of the town, that the Prussians captured the carriage of Napoleon, and nearly took him prisoner in it, on the night after the battle. [rt. A road leads to Nivelles, 11 m. distant (Inn : Couronne), a town of 7844 inhab. The Ch. of St. Gertrude, consecrated 1048, is a very noble edifice of Bomanesque architecture. It pos- sesses the relics of St. Gertrude, daugh- ter of Pepin, Maire du Palais, in an elaborate shrine in the form of a church, with all the most minute Gothic details, of metal gilt. It is placed over the high altar. Also two pulpits carved by Delvaux ; one, of wood, represents Elijah in the Desert; the other, of marble, the Good Samaritan. Under the massive tower is a fine crypt of Bomanesque style, much resorted to by pilgrims to St. Gertrude's shrine, who squeeze themselves through between Jtelgium. route 24. — quatre bras, fleurus. liuny. 169 one of the pillars and the wall, as a cure for illness. This practice arises from a legend that St. Gertrude, when pursued by a prince, who sought her in marriage, escaped from his impor- tunities through a gap in a wall, in order to preserve her vow of perpetual virginity. The smaller tower of the church contains the chimes : the hours are struck by a colossal figure of an armed knight known as Jean de Ni- velles. The cloister adjoining the church formerly belonged to an abbey founded by the Saint, and of which she became the head. The chapter con- sisted of 36 canons and 42 canonesses ; but the whole community was under the rule of the abbess. The qualifica- tion for election depended on a descent which could show arms with 16 quar- terings : the Dukes of Brabant soon encroached on their authority and pri- vileges. The cloister appears from its style to be of the 11th or 12th cent., not unlike what in England is called transition Norman.] Between Quatre Bras and Nivellcs is the estate presented by the King of the Netherlands to the Duke of Wel- lington, in gratitude for his great services. 3 m. E. of Genappe is the extensive Abbey of Villers in ruins, of Romanesque architecture. The church was dedi- cated 1272. About l^m. from Genappe is the village of Boisy, where Godfrey of Bouillon, the lead\ Dinant {Inns : Post, best ; Tete d'Or), a town of 5650 inhab., ro- mantically situated at the base of lime- stone cliffs, to which the fortifications and the chapel on their summit add in- terest. " There are caverns in the con- torted convolutions of the limestone strata. Winding stairs, cut in the rock, render the summit of the cliffs above the town accessible to its inhabitants, but there is little or no view from the heights. Permission to enter the citadel is no longer given. The Church is dis- tinguished by a singular bulb-shaped steeple, its interior is interesting, and part of the building is very ancient. The door of the baptistery, and another which is blocked up, are of the 10th or 11th cent."— T. The inhabitants of Bouvigne were rivals of those of Dinant in the manu- facture of copper kettles (called from the place dinanderies), and the animosity thus created led to bloody and long- continued feuds between them. In de- fiance of their neighbours, the men of Bouvigne built the castle of Crevecoeur, and those of Dinant, to annoy them in return, erected that of Montorgueil, which they were afterwards compelled to destroy. Philip the Good, irritated by some act of aggression, besieged Dinant with an army of 30,000 men. The inhabitants, when summoned to surrender, replied by hanging the messengers sent with the proposals. The Duke, enraged at this outrage, was preparing to take the town by assault, when it surrendered. He gave it up to pillage for 3 days, and then set fire to it ; and while the flames were still raging, ordered 800 of the inhabitants, bound, two and two, to be thrown into the Meuse. Though weak from illness, he was carried in a litter to a spot whence he could feast his eyes on the conflagration and horrible exe- cution ; and, not satisfied with this act of vengeance, he sent workmen to pull down the ruined walls remaining after the fire, that not a vestige of Dinant might survive. His son, Charles the Bold, who succeeded 3 years after, allowed the town to be rebuilt ; but it was again sacked, burnt, and demolished, in 1554, by the French under the Due de Nevers, — a misfortune occasioned principally by the insolence of the townspeople in replying to the summons to surrender by a message to the effect that, if the Duke and the King of France fell into their hands, they would roast their hearts and livers for breakfast. Excursions from Dinant may be made to the grotto of Hans sur Lesse, described in Ete. .31 — to the ruined Castle of Montaigle, beautifully situ- ated in a rocky valley (5 m.) — to the Chateau de "Walzius, upon the edge of a precipice above the Lesse — to Chaleux, a group of hovels, where some extra- ordinary rocks rise above the Lesse, projecting like spires, and one, LaChan- delle, like a pillar from the face of the rock. About % m. above Dinant the road goes through a kind of natural portal, formed by the abrupt termination of a long narrow ridge or wall of rock, pro- jecting from the precipitous cliffs on the 1., and on the rt. by a pointed and 192 ROUTE 31. THE ARDENNES, Sect. II. bold isolated mass of rock, called the Roche a Bayard. The cleft was widened by order of Louis XIV., to facilitate the passage of the road up the valley. Near this are quarries of black marble. Immediately above lies Anseremme, a pretty town -with overhanging cliffs. Here the Lesse falls into the Meuse ; its rocky valley is very picturesque and well deserves to be explored. The Lesse descends, 400 ft. from the Trou de Han, in a series of falls called Battes. The road to Givet begins to ascend. " The finest point on the route is about 3 m. above Dinant, at the Cha- teau of Freyr, a country seat belonging to the Duchesse de Beaufort, on the 1. bank of the river, at the base of cliffs and richly- wooded hills, which are fur- rowed by ravines. "Within the grounds is a natural grotto, abounding in stalac- tites, and singularly lighted by an aperture in the rock. Opposite to Freyr the cliffs of limestone rise directly from the Meuse, much subdivided and broken up, presenting striking forms and out- lines ; sometimes jutting out in ledges more or less connected with the mass of the cliff, at other times separated into isolated fragments ; and occasion- ally the upper part of the range projects beyond the perpendicular, so as com- pletely to overhang the .river. The banks present lofty cliffs and romantic scenery as far as Flamignoul. At Heer a quarry of red marble is passed. The view of Givet from the top of the hill, surmounted by the road in approaching it, is very picturesque ; the fortifica- tions and windings of the river appear to great advantage.'' — T. T. 2| Givet. — Inns: Le Cygne ; le Mont d'Or; good beer. — Givet and Charlemont may be regarded as parts of one town, prettily situated on oppo- site banks of the Meuse, but connected by a bridge. They belong to France, lying just within the frontier : the po- pulation is 4000 : the fortifications were constructed by Yauban. The for- tress of Charlemont (on the 1. bank) is placed on a high and commanding rock of limestone, which is sometimes of so fine a texture as to be quarried for marble. (See Handbook for France.) The Castle of Bouillon may be visited from Givet, travelling over rough cross roads, by Beauraing, — the distance 30 m. ROUTE 31. THE ARDENNES. — DINANT TO HANS SUR LESSE, ST. HUBERT, AND BOUILLON. The Ardennes present some interest- ing though not first-rate scenery, espe- cially in the forests about St. Hubert, between it and Bochefort and Marche, and along the banks of the Semoi. Bouillon, upon that river, is a very striking and romantic castle, and the course of the Semoi (little known to travellers) invites explorers. The course of the Lesse presents many striking rocky scenes, singularly contorted stra- tification. Castles (as Villars sur Lesse). " The characteristic feature of the Ardennes is wildness ; heathy and rocky bills, with dark rapid streams winding round them ; vast forests of oak stretch- ing over the plains and crowning the hills, peopled with deer, wild boars, and wolves ; villages at long intervals, dirty and poor; cottages thinly scat- tered among the valleys, and castles frowning from rocky heights, em- bosomed in woods." — C. One may live well on the fine mutton fed on the heathery hills, on wild boar and tame pig fed on acorns of the forest. Veni- son, hare, and other game are common fare. The rivers afford small trout and grayling, on which the angler may ex- ercise his skill, and crawfish : nowhere is richer milk or more delicious honey. A very good road, traversed thrice a week by a diligence, but not as yet pro- vided with post-horses, though horses may be obtained by writing on before- hand, has been formed from Dinant to Neufchateau, passing through the midst of the Ardennes forest, and within 5 or. 6 m. of the Trou de Han. " The Inns are wretched, mere vil- lage cabarets ; the country, for the most part, open, wild, and uncultivated, with some good wood scenery. The line is carried through Celles, Ardenne, a villa (or hunting -seat) of King Leo- pold, situated on the slope of a charm- ing valley, the natural beauties of which Belgium. ROUTE 31. — TROU DE HAN. ST. HUBERT. 193 have been enhanced by the taste of its royal owners." — C. Beyond Almars, at Avenaye, travellers turn aside if they intend to visit the Trou de Han ; thence the vile cross-road touches Lom- pretz and Nicupont (Madame Randol- let's inn), about 16 m. from Dinant; the river Lesse abounds with trout and grayling between Sechery and Nieu- pont. Through Neufchateau the road reaches Arlon. The cavern called Trou de Han is about 20 m. (8 post leagues) S.E. from Dinant. The valley of the Lesse is stopped up by a rocky barrier stretching across it, but the river precipitates itself into the cavern at the foot of this rock, called le Gotiffre de Belvaux, and forces a passage through it. The cavern is accessible through the natural arch out of which the Lesse issues, in a boat kept by a man residing hard by, who serves as a guide, and provides torches . ' ' The cave is entered in a boat at the spot where the river issues from it. It is a wild scene as the boatman lights wisps of straw, and as each bums down flings the lighted end into the stream." — B. It consists of a series of chambers opening into one another — some high, others low, some shaped like a syphon upright or inverted ; in places it contains some fine stalac- tites. The first hall or chamber is lighted by the reflection cast from the surface of the water up to the roof. The effect is very brilliant at 8 or 9 o'clock in the morning, when the sun is opposite to the entrance. "After you leave the boat there is a good deal of really tough scrambling to get through, and dirty work it is. You should bor- row one of the blouses of the country before you attempt it, as the chances are you emerge covered with mud." — B. It takes about 2 hrs. to explore the cave : there is a poor cabaret near it. From Nieupont the distance is about 12 m., by a cross road, through ^Hans sur Lesse, to Rochefort (Inn, l'Etoile, a neat homely inn, and good cuisine ; charges for bed, dinner, and supper, only 3 fr.), on the Homme, surmounted by an old castle, commanding a fine view. The scenery of the valley of I Homme above this is very fine, es- [n. g.] pecially near Grupont, where the castle of Mirwart, one of the best preserved feudal strongholds in Belgium, which belonged once to the de la Marcks, is a striking object. Mirwart is about 6 m. from St. Hubert. A cross-road leads from Hans sur L., by "Wavrulle, Grupont, and Bure, a dis- tance of 12 or 15 m., to St. Hubert (Inn, H. des Pays-Bas), a miserable little town of 1842 inhab., occupying a clearance in the midst of the grand forest of St. Hubert, which has a circumference of 40 m. The Abbey Church is a fine Gothic edifice, inter- nally adorned with precious marbles, and contrasting strangely with the humble buildings about it. The W. front with the 2 towers are Italian. Its founder, St. Hubert, the patron of hunters and sportsmen, was originally a dissolute prince, who, among other profane acts, was guilty of that of hunting on Sundays. He even did not hold sacred the holy festival of Good Friday ; but, while engaged in his fa- vourite diversion on that day, a stag suddenly presented itself to him, bear- ing a cross growing between its horns. The apparition, which he believed to be miraculous, and to be sent from heaven, recalled him from his evil mode of life. Renouncing equally his vices and his pleasures, he passed the rest of his days in penance and prayer; and, devoting his fortune to the church, acquired such a degree of sanctity as to work miracles, not merely by his hands, but by his garments ; so that even a shred of his mantle possessed virtue enough to cure hydrophobia, if placed on the patient's head ! The body of St. Hubert was deposited in the abbey, 825, but is sup- posed to have been burnt in the confla- gration caused by the French Calvinists, who set fire to both church and monas- tery, 1568. A handsome shrine has lately been erected to the Saint. In ancient times the abbot of St. Hubert paid an annual tribute of 3 couple of hounds to the King of France, to be allowed to collect contributions for the monastery in his kingdom. There are cross-roads from St. Hu- bert to Champion and Marche ; post stations on the high road from Namur K 194 ROUTE 32.— BRUSSELS TO MONS. HAL. Sect. II. to Luxemburg (Rte. 29), to Bouillon, and by Neufchateau to Arlon, on the way to Luxemburg. A good road has been constructed from Dinant to Beauraing, and is about to be continued (it is said) to Bouillon : the entire distance is calculated at 8 posts, about 40 m. Bouillon [Inn, H. du Nord, homely and small, but comfortable; commands a fine view) is a very interesting and picturesque town of 2500 inhab. ; it is beautifully situated at the bottom of a long valley washed by the Semoi, which winds round a rocky promontory crowned by the extensive Castle of Bouil- lon, repaired and restored since 1827, and converted into a military prison ; it is elevated high above the town, and washed by the river Semoi. It will well repay a visit. The dungeons are hewn out of the rock. The walks in the woods around the town are very pleasing. Bouillon, once capital of the duchy of the same name, was pawned by Godfrey of Bouillon to the Bishop of Liege, to raise funds for the first Crusade. In after times the bishops refused to allow it to be redeemed, which gave rise to a long series of feuds and fights be- tween them and Godfrey's descendants, so that the territory of Bouillon became truly debateable ground. At length Louis XIV. directed Marechal Crequi to take possession of the town, " not," says his published declaration, " for the purpose of predjudicing the Bishops of Liege, but for the protection of France, which is not sufficiently fortified in that quarter." Louis, having thus realised the fable of the Oyster, protested, be- fore the Congress of Nimwegen, that he was prepared to resign the province as soon as the umpires had decided to which of the contending parties it ought to belong. The dispute, however, was never settled, and the House of La Tour d'Auvergne assumed the sove- reignty and title of Dukes of Bouillon, with the consent of Louis (1696). The town was ceded to the Netherlands by the Treaty of Yienna. Passports are asked for here. ROUTE 32. BRUSSELS TO MONS AND VALENCIENNES BY HAL — ON THE WAY TO PARIS — RAILWAY. 93 kilom. = 58| m. Terminus at Brussels, Station du Midi, near the S. Boulevard. On quitting the station the Boule- vard is crossed, the Port de Hal is seen on the 1., and the river Senne is passed near Foret. Good view of Bruxelles. 6. Ruysbroeck Stat. The railway runs side by side with the Canal de Charleroi, whose bed is in some places higher than it. There are many cuttings on this line. 3 Loth Stat. 5 Hal Stat. (Inn : H. des Pays-Bas.) Hal is a town of 5000 inhab. on the Senne and the Canal de Charleroi. The Church of St. Mary (formerly of St. Martin), a pure Gothic edifice, contains a chapel resorted to by pilgrims on account of a miracle- workfn g image of the Virgin, of wood, 2 ft. high, which has acquired enormous wealth from the offerings of pious devotees, including gold plate given by Charles V., Maxi- milian I., Pope Julius II., &c. In a side chapel, near one of the doors, railed off, are 33 cannon-balls, which, having been aimed at the church during the bombardment, were caught by the Virgin in her robe spread over the town to protect it ! The High Altar of this church (made in 1533) is unequalled in the Netherlands. It is of marble, in the best style of the renaissance, sculp- tured apparently by Italian artists. Below is the depository for the Host : on the next stage is St. Martin dividing his cloak : the 2 lower rows of bas- reliefs represent the 7 Sacraments, ad- mirable as works of art ; the whole is surmounted by the pelican. In the octagon baptistery attached to the ch. is the gorgeous font of brass, covered by a spire studded with sta- tuettes and groups in high-relief, of the Baptism of Christ, St. Martin, &c. It was cast at Tournay, 1467, by an artist named Lefebvre. 5 Tubise Stat. A tunnel precedes 11 Braine le Comte Stat. — a town Belgium, ROUTE 32. — MONS. 195 of 4400 inhab., named after Count Baldwin, who bought it from the monks of St. Waudru, at Mons, 1158. The district around furnishes some of the finest flax which is anywhere produced : it is employed in the manu- facture of Brussels lace. A few miles to the N.W. is Steenkerke, where Wil- liam III. was defeated by the Duke of Luxemburg, in 1692, with a loss of 7000 men. A railway is carried hence to Char- leroi and Namur, 38| m. (Rte. 28.) 6 Soignies Stat. This town of 6500 inhab. has a Ch. of St. Vincent, and a convent (perhaps the oldest in Bel- gium) founded in the 7th cent. There are tombstones of the 13th and 14th cent, in its churchyard. Soignies has given its name to the vast forest which reaches to "Waterloo. The railway makes an abrupt bend W. to reach 13 Jurbize Stat. About 5 m. W. lies Beloeil. (Rte. 15.) Here a railway branches off to Ath and Tournay. (See Rte. 15.) To reach the Mons Station, the fortifications are cut through to admit the passage of the railway. 12 Mons. (Bergen in Germ, and Flemish.) — Inns: Couronne,best; Aigle Noir, good. Mons, the capital of the province of Hainault (German, Hen- negau ; Flemish, Hennegouw), is a fortified town of 24,500 inhab., owing its origin to a castle built here by Julius Csesar during his campaign against the Gauls. After the siege in 1680, the King of Spain, to whom the town belonged, rewarded the citizens for their courageous resistance, by con- ferring a peerage on every member of the corporation. The fortifications were razed by the Empr. Joseph II., but have been renewed and strengthened since 1818. The facilities for laying the country round the town completely under water, by admitting the river Trouille, add greatly to its defensive capabilities. The E. side is protected by 2 large ponds or lakes. Mons derives great advantages from the numerous and productive Coal- mines by which it is surrounded; a great many steam-engines are employed to pump up the water and extract the coal, which is imported in large quan- tities to Paris by the long line of inland navigation connecting these mines with the French metropolis. In 1840, 26,000 persons were employed in 376 coalpits of the coalfield of Mons. There are also in the neighbourhood extensive bleaching grounds. The principal build- ing is the Church of St. Waudru (Wal- trudis), a handsome Gothic edifice, begun in 1460, but not completed till 1580, on your 1. hand as you enter Mons from the railway. The interior is well worth notice ; the elegant and lofty reeded piers without capitals send forth a network of ribs over the roof. The high altar is decorated with curious marble bas-reliefs from the New Testa- ment, cut by an Italian artist, 1556, which were sadly mutilated at the French revolution. Here is also a cu- rious Tabernacle. On the highest ground in the city, not far from St. Waudru, is a tower or beffroi, built in 1662 on the site of Caesar's Castrum, as is reported. The castle to which it belongs is now a lunatic asylum. The Gothic Town Hall was begun in 1458 ; the tower is a later addition, and the whole ranks far below other municipal edifices of Bel- gium. Mons was the native place of Or- lando Lassus, the celebrated musician of the 16th cent. A communication is opened between Mons and the Schelde by the Canal de Conde'; a new branch, called Canal d'Antoing, has been cut to avoid the French territory altogether, . and to enter the Schelde lower down, at a point where both banks of that river belong to Belgium. About 10 m. S. from Mons, within the French frontier, was fought the bloody battle of Malplaquet, 1709, where the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eu- gene beat the French, though with a loss of 20,000 men. A branch Railway between Mons and Manage opens a direct communica- tion from Paris to Charleroi, Namur, and Cologne, avoiding the detour to Braine le Comte. Its length is 24f kilom.=15J Eng. m. The stations are 9f Havre Stat. K 2 196 ROUTE 32. JEMAPPES. ST. GHISLAIN. Sect. II. 9j La Louviere Stat. Here a branch turns off on the rt. to Bascoup (5 Eng. 5i Manage Stat. (See Rte. 28.) Tne Railway, on quitting Mons, crosses the river Trouille, and runs not very far from the Canal de Conde and the sluices of St. Ghislain, by means of which the whole country around might be inundated. 4 Jemappes Stat. This village is celebrated for the victory gained by the French, under Gen. Dumouriez and the Duke de Chartres, late King Louis- Philippe, 6th Nov. 1792, over the Aus- trians. Three coalpits were filled with dead bodies of men and horses after the battle. The result of this victory was to make the French masters of Bel- gium. A stone has been set up close to the post-road to mark the scene of the battle. 5 Saint Ghislain Stat. Near this is a populous and increasing colony, al- ready numbering 3750 inhab., though of recent origin, having been estab- lished by the late M. Legrand. It is composed principally of miners and iron-forgers, who are maintained by the mines of coal and iron here. Steam- engines are manufactured to a con- siderable extent here. The village is built with straight streets on a uniform plan, the houses being of the same height. This country resembles much the neighbourhood of Manchester and Bolton : the roads are black with coal- dust, which in windy weather begrimes the face and garments of the traveller, and the dwellings partake of the same hue. Every cottage seems as populous as a hive. 2 Boussu Stat. 4 Thulin Stat. 4 Quievrain is the station of the Belgian custom-house. About £ m. farther on, the small river Aunelle marks the boundary of France. Blanc Misseron Stat. 1^ Valenciennes (Rte. 15). For the Railway hence to Paris, see Hand- book for Travellers in France. From Brussels to Paris takes 11 hrs. Germany. 28. passports and police regulations. 197 SECTION III. GERMANY. 28. Passports, — 29. Inns and Expenses. — 30. Beds. — 31. Valets-de-Place. — 32. Custom-house League, Zollverein. — 33. Distances, Travelling Maps. — 34. Modes of Travelling, Posting, Laufzettel. — 35. Diligences, or Eiludgen. — 36. Voiturier,or Lohnkutscher. — 37. Railroads. — 38. Baggage. — 39. Succinct Account of Germany. — 40. Some Peculiarities of German Manners, Titles, Saluta- tions, Recreations, Public Gardens, Kirmes, The Tumpikemen, Travelling Journey- men. — 41. Music. — 42. German Watering-places. — 43. German Towns, Fire- watch. Woodcutters. — 44. Clubs. — 45. Burial-grounds. [N.B. — The information contained in this Section is of a general character and applicable to the whole of Germany. The details peculiar to different states of Germany will be found respectively under the heads — Prussia, Saxony, Bavaria, Austria, &c] 28. PASSPORTS AND POLICE REGULATIONS. * No one can travel in Germany without a passport, properly countersigned. (See § 46, 76, 86.) On entering a frontier town of Prussia, or any other state of Germany, and in most of the large towns of Austria and Bavaria, the traveller is requested at the gate to produce his passport. If it be a town of some importance, and he intend to sleep there, in all probability the passport must be forwarded to the Police- bureau to be examined and countersigned (visirt), in which case he will receive in exchange a ticket or receipt (schein), enabling him to get his passport back: in minor towns this proceeding may not be necessary, and the passport is merely detained 2 or 3 minutes, till the name be registered, and is then returned to the owner. It generally happens, however, that the traveller is requested to name the inn at which he proposes to take up his residence, in order that the passport may be sent after him : he is glad to avoid unnecessary delay, and the gatekeeper to have an opportunity of receiving a gratuity for his trouble in taking the passport to the inn. As matters of this sort are totally foreign to English habits, and it is to travellers of this nation that the Handbook is addressed, we shall dwell on a few particulars, which may be new to them, and useful to know. " All innkeepers are compelled to submit to the inspection of the police the daily arrivals and departures of their guests ; and not merely the name, surname, and country, but frequently the age, condition, whether married or single, pro- fession, religion, motives for travelling, and other particulars, are required. A book (called das Fremden Buch, Stranger's Book), ruled into columns, and methodically classed, is presented to the traveller for him to fill up." — S. Before he has remained 2 days in the place (the period of time is different in different countries), he is required, under penalty of a fine, to send, or take in person, to- the Police Office (Polizei Direction) the ticket which he received at 198 29. inns. Sect. III. the gate ; and, if he intends remaining any time on the spot, he will, upon showing it, receive a permission of residence (Aufenthaltsschein — permission de sejour) for a certain period, at the expiration of which it will he renewed, if required. "When he has made up his mind to quit the place, his passport will he returned to him. It must then he vise : first, hy the police ; next, hy his own minister (if there he any resident English minister) ; and lastly, hy the ambassa- dors of the countries to which he is going, and through which he may pass. The arrangement of the passport should be attended to a day or two before the tra- veller's departure, as the necessary signatures are often not to be got in a single day. As a general rule, never pass out of one state into another without having the signature of the minister of the state you are about to enter upon your passport. On leaving a great capital to pass through the dominions of several sovereigns, the passport should be signed by the ministers of all these sovereigns resident at the capital. *#* Attention to the passport is particularly necessary when the traveller intends to enter Italy, or any part of the Austrian dominions. It cannot be too often repeated, to impress it on the traveller's mind, that without the SIGNATURE OF SOME AUSTRIAN AMBASSADOR, OR MINISTER, NO ONE IS EVER ALLOWED, ON ANY CONDITION, TO CROSS THE AUSTRIAN FRONTIER. The instances of delay, vexation, and trouble which annually occur to persons who, from igno- rance of this, proceed to the frontier, and are there stopped, are innumerable. 29. inns. Great care has been taken in this work to furnish the traveller with the names of the best inns throughout Germany and the North of Europe, derived princi- pally from personal experience, or that of friends, and trusting as little as possible to the usual recommendations of Guide Books, unless they were ascertained to be well founded. As it is the first information which a traveller requires on reaching a place, the names of the inns in all instances stand first. German Innkeepers are, on the whole, of a higher class, and hold a superior position in their respective towns, to that occupied by persons of a similar calling in England. In N. Germany they are often men of considerable wealth and well connected. They usually preside at their own tables-d'hote, entering familiarly into conversation with their guests. It is rarely necessary to make a bargain beforehand with a German landlord, a precaution almost indispensable in Holland, Italy, and Switzerland. When, however, a traveller intends to take up his residence for several weeks, or even 6 or 8 days, in a hotel, it is a good plan, as well as customary, to come to an agreement with the landlord, who, under these circumstances, is usually willing to make an abatement of one-third from his usual charges. It is also a common practice to purchase a dozen or twenty tickets for the table-d'hote, which, when taken in such a number, are charged at a lower rate. The apartments are classed, as to price, according to the stories on which they are situated, the size, and the look-out — the highest and those turned to the back being least expensive. Average charges of inns in Northern Germany : — In Prussia. Frankfort, Dollars. Silver gros* Nassau, Baden, &c. Bed-rooms, varying ] according to size > from 1 to 10 or 12 = from 1 f. 12 kr. to 36 kr.. and situation - - j Dinner at table-d'hote - - - 15 to 20 = If. to 1 f. 48 kr. in private room from 1 to 1 10 = 1 f. 24 kr. to 2 f. 20 kr. Tea or coffee, a portion for one 5 or 6 = 24 kr. to 30 kr. Breakfast a la fourchette - - - -15= 36 kr. to 48 kr. Half a bottle of wine ----- 5= 18 kr. Germany. 29. expenses at inns; tables-d'hote. 199 These prices do not apply to Austria and Southern Germany. For those countries refer to Handbook for South Germany. Average expenses of living for a party of 6, not including wine, in Nassau, "Wurtemberg, and Baden : — Breakfast not less than ---- 4 florins Dinner at table-d'hote rarely less than 1 fl. ; often 1 R 1 fl. 15 kr. or 1 fl. 20 kr. J ° " \ 19 florins. Tea or coifee ------------ 3 „ Beds -------------- 6 „ This is a very moderate calculation, and the sum will be exceeded if the tra- vellers indulge in a private saloon. " Persons who travel for pleasure must expect to pay liberally, and any attempt on their part to make close bargains will generally fail ; there is a sort of ordinary charge, which the traveller soon finds out, and, with common tact and judgment, he may manage to visit most parts of the Continent without being entangled in annoying squabbles ; but should a bill contain items of an unreason- ably high price, instead of pointing them out to the waiter, and clamorously insisting on an immediate reduction, he should go himself to the master's room, and speak to him when no servants are by : a remonstrance founded on reason, and politely made, will then generally have its effect : this mode cannot be too strongly recommended." — S. Travellers intending to set out early in the morning should cause their bills to be made out and delivered to them over night, that they may examine the items at leisure ; but they should not pay them until the moment of starting. It is indispensable, to prevent fraud, to examine inn-bills, and to understand them before paying them ; he who neglects this offers a pre- mium to dishonesty, and will scarcely escape being cheated. Servants in German inns can exact no fee ; the head waiter (Oberkellner) usually receives 5 silver groschen, or 18 kr., per diem; the boots (Hausknecht), 2~ silver groschen. The English have introduced this custom of feeing servants into conti- nental inns, and something more is expected of them, especially as they often give much more trouble to the servants than the natives. " The English are often accused of meanness to the servants at hotels. This frequently arises, not from want of generosity on their part, but from the rascality of couriers, or of the servants themselves, in appropriating the fees meant for the establishment. The best way to obviate this would be for the innkeepers to make a specific charge ; or, failing in this, the traveller should write down on the bill the sum which he allots for the servants." See p. 231. Tables-d'hote. — The usual hour for dining is 1 o'clock; in the North of Germany it is as late as 2 or 3 ; in the South it is even as early as 12. The table-d'hote is frequented by both ladies and gentlemen, and, especially at the watering-places, by persons of the highest ranks, from Grand Dukes and Princes downwards. The stranger will find much more general urbanity than in a simi- larly mixed assemblage in England ; the topics and news of the day are discussed without restraint ; and if the traveller be anxious to gain general or local infor- mation, he will frequently succeed at the table-d'hote ; and should his visit to a town or place be somewhat rapid, perhaps he will have no other source to go to. Added to this, the best dinner is always to be had at the table-d'hote. It answers the landlord's purpose to provide sumptuously, en gros, for a large com- pany, and he therefore discourages dining in private. They who prefer taking their meals alone at a later hour of the day will probably dine on the refuse of the table-d'hote, and pay double price for an inferior dinner and a bottle of the same wine which at the public table passed for vin ordinaire. In fact, it discon- certs the system of a German household (and in Germany everything is done systematically) to dress a dinner, or even a mutton-chop, out of the usual hours ; and when masters and waiters put themselves out of the way to comply with the 200 30. GERMAN BEDS. — 31. VALETS DE PLACE. Sect. III. foreign habits of English travellers, an extra price is regarded by many as hardly a sufficient compensation. German innkeepers, however, are beginning to be better accustomed to Englishmen's habits of dining late ; and in the hotels of many of the larger towns, such as Frankfurt, Coblenz, Baden, Wiesbaden, &c, there is a second table-d'hote at 4 or 5 o'clock, to accommodate the English : but not many years ago (and even at the present in the remoter parts of Germany), if a traveller hap- pened to reach an inn after the hour of table-d'hote, he stood a very poor chance of getting anything to eat at all. Those who intend to dine at the table-d'hote in a frequented inn at a full season should desire the waiter to keep their places. The guests are usually seated according to priority of arrival, the last comers being placed at the foot of the table. Supper, which, owing to the early hour of dinner, is a usiial meal in Germany, is ordered from the Carte (Speise-Carte). Travellers on the Rhine during May should inquire for Maitrink, a spiced wine, or cup flavoured with some aromatic herb, peculiar to this part of the country ; it sheds its flowers at the end of May. It used to be said to be best made at the small inn at Eolandseck. Few German inns afford what in England would be termed sitting-rooms ; even the best apartments, on the lower floor, though furnished elegantly as a parlour, serve as bed-rooms, and contain one or more beds. The price of a room depends upon the number of beds in it, but the double-bedded rooms are inva- riably superior to those with only one bed. The partitions dividing the rooms of German inns are often very thin, and the rooms usually open into each other ; the tenant should, therefore, remember that what he says and does is liable to be overheard. 30. GERM AX BEDS. One of the first complaints of an Englishman on arriving in Germany will be directed against the beds. It is therefore as well to make him aware before- hand of the full extent of misery to which he will be subjected on this score. A German bed is made only for one ; it may be compared to an open wooden box, often hardly wide enough to turn in, and rarely long enough for any man of moderate stature to lie down in. The pillows encroach nearly half-way down, and form such an angle with the bed that it is scarcely possible to lie at full length, or assume any other than a half-sitting posture. Curtains are almost always wanting. The place of blankets is sometimes supplied by a light puffy feather-bed, which is likely to be kicked off, and forsake in his utmost need the sl eeper , who, on awaking in cold weather, finds himself frozen : should it remain in its position in warm weather, the opposite alternative is that of suffocation beneath, it. Mr. Coleridge has recorded his abhorrence of a German bed, declaring " he would rather carry his blanket about him, like a wild Indian, than submit to this abominable custom." The Germans themselves say that they use the feather-bed merely to cover their feet in cold weather. The stranger who appreciates this nuisance to its full extent is recommended to ask the chambermaid for a counterpane (bett-decke), instead of the usual federbett. 31 . VALETS-DE-PLACE ; OR, LOHNBEDIENTER. It has been the custom of many travellers who have published tours to speak very contemptuously of the class of guides who go by the name of valets-de- place, though it may fairly be suspected that they owe much of the best part of their books to that despised caste. The fact is, that when a traveller arrives for the first time at a spot which he is desirous of seeing thoroughly, and at the Germany* 32. German custom-house league. 201 same time does not intend to remain long in it, a valet-de-place is indispensable, unless he has friends who will perform the part of ciceroni for him. There are always a certain number of persons experienced in the duties of a guide attached to every inn ; and if the traveller, instead of engaging a person nominated by the landlord, for the sake of sparing a franc or two, put his trust in the boys who may accost him in the streets, he rims the risk of falling into bad hands, or of finding himself in situations in which it will be neither agreeable nor creditable to be placed. The utility of a valet-de-place consists in his knowledge of the hours at which each church, picture-gallery, palace, or other sight, is open, or visible ; how to procure tickets of admission, and where to find the keepers of them, which spares the traveller much time in running about in search of them, and, if he have a spare hour, furnishes the means of spending it advantageously. The valet-de- place will also know the residences of all the ambassadors, and the mode of obtaining passports, and will undertake to have them properly vise. Nothing is so annoying as to have to traverse the streets of a large town in search of ministers and consuls, and, on arriving, perhaps to find you have come at the wrong time, or at least to be compelled to dance attendance for hours. It is far preferable to promise your valet-de-place a franc or two, if he secure the proper signatures within a fixed time. At the same time, it is necessary to put the traveller on his guard against the tricks of a valet-de-place. For his own advantage, and the interest of the inn- keeper his patron, he will often endeavour to detain the traveller by framing- excuses — that collections are not open — that the passport office is closed, or — the minister out of town. It is better to state beforehand to the man what objects you desire to see, and how much time you can devote to seeing them ; to ascertain from him at once at what hours different sights are thrown open to the' public, and to make him arrange the order of proceeding accordingly. "With respect to passports, it may be borne in mind that the hours of attendance at police offices are, with very few exceptions, so regulated as never to detain per- sons who are anxious to proceed ; and if the valet-de-place maintains there is any impediment, the best way to settle the matter is by calling in the landlord, or, if that will not do, by going in person to the police-office. The fee paid to a valet-de-place varies in different parts of Germany ; and it will be found particularised in the description of almost all the great cities. It is not always necessary to engage him for the whole day : he may be hired by the hour, and paid accordingly. Travellers are warned on no account to take a valet-de-place with them into a shop where they wish to make purchases, since it is an acknowledged practice of the valet-de-place to demand of the tradesman a fee of 5 per cent, on the sum laid out by the stranger whom he conducts, and this is, of course, added to the price paid by the purchaser. Another practice, in towns where palaces or churches are exhibited by fixed attendants, is for the valet-de-place to name a larger sum than is necessary as the fee to be paid to the attendant, part of which he receives back himself : unless the traveller ascertains that the fee named is fixed by tariff or usage, it is usually advisable to disregard altogether the sum mentioned by him. 32. GERMAN CUSTOM-HOUSE LEAGUE, ZOLLVEREIN. — COINAGE. Down to 1833 almost every state in Germany had its own tariff and system of duties, and the traveller was subjected to the inconvenience of custom-house visitations on the frontier of each state, however insignificant ; while the vexa- tious impediments thrown in the way of trade were enormous. Some states, situated in the interior of the Continent, were compelled to pay 10 or 12 different transit duties for every article they imported or exported. K 3 202 33. DISTANCES. — TRAVELLING MAPS. Sect. III. An Association, called Zoll-Verein (Toll Union), headed by Prussia, is now formed for the furtherance of trade by consolidating the different states of Ger- many, and uniting them under one system of customs. The members of this league have agreed to adopt the same scale of duties, to abolish all intermediate custom-houses, and to divide the profits among the states of the union propor- tionately to the population of each. In consequence of this, many of the restraints which impeded the communication from one part of Germany to the other have been removed. The conforming states are — Prussia (the head of the league), Bavaria, Saxony, Wiirtemberg, Baden, Brunswick, Hesse-Darmstadt, Cassel, Nassau, Frankfurt, the Duchies of Saxony, and Principalities of Anhalt. Those which have, up to the present time, held back from this commercial con- federation are — Hanover, Oldenburg, Mecklenburg, Holstein, and the Hanse Towns, which have formed a minor league of their own. Thus the traveller who has crossed the outer line is freed from the vexations of the Douanier in every part of Central Germany, and may proceed without interruption from Belgium to the frontier of Russia, and from Tyrol to the Baltic, a distance of 700 or 800 m. : and a small transit duty enables goods to pass all the states of the Union. Austria still follows the ancient regulations in all the states belonging to her. This Confederation made the first step towards producing a political nation- ality in Germany. Another object effected by the League is, unity in the currency. A money convention was entered into by the States forming the Union in 1837, who agreed on a new basis of valuation under the term Sad Deutsche Wdhrung (S. D. W.), at the rate of 24f gulden to the marc of fine silver, the marc of fine silver weighing 233 f^ grammes. The term " Vier-und-zwanzig- gulden- Fuss " implies that the marc of fine silver is coined into 24 gulden or florins. The florins coined by the Customs Union are nearly of this rate, differing only 2 per cent. ; 1 fl.=19|c?., making the par of exchange with London 120f fl. S. D. W. = 10Z. According to the 24 gulden Fuss, 118 fl.=10Z. 1 marc of fine silver=14 Pruss. dollars=24|- fl. of S. Germany=20 fl. of Aus- tria=60 lire Austriache. Thaler=lf fl. Florin=^ thaler. Bavaria, Wurtemberg, Baden, Frankfurt, and Saxony have issued coins at this rate : piece of 2 thalers=3j florins, or ) of the marc. It bears on one side the head of the sovereign, on the other the words " Vereins Mimze." 1 centner of the ZoHverein=50 French kilogrammes=110j lbs. avoirdupois. The ton of 4 scheffels=6 imp. bushels, nearly 1 per cent. more. 33. DISTANCES. — TRAVELLING MAPS. 1 German m.=4| Eng. m. (say 5 Eng. m. on an average), or about 1 French post. 15 Germ, m., or 14*77 Prussian, make a degree. 1 Germ. m. = 22,803 Rhenish feet. 2 Germ, m., or 4 stunden (hours), make one post = 9£ Eng. m. The German post stunde is not quite 1\ Eng. m. ; the Stunde zu Fuss (hour walking) is about 3 m., or as much as a man can walk in an hour without much exertion. In Rhenish Prussia the mile is divided into 100 parts, which are marked by small stones set up at the roadside. These stones are therefore 82 yards Eng. apart, and 21 1 of these hundredths make an English mile, nearly. This subdivision of the German mile is used to express distances on the railroads. German post miles compared with English. -£ no Q er# jjn<*. 1 Prussian, Bavarian, Hanoverian, New Saxon, Hessian = 43 or 5 = 23 1 Austrian = 4f — 5 = 23f 1 Old Saxon = 5|§ — 5 = 284, 1 French Poste = 4i — 5 = 24 1 French Myriametre - - • --- - - - - - = 6i — 5 = 31 L. R. G. Germany* 34. modes of travelling, posting. 203 The most clear, accurate, and portable Travelling Maps of Germany are, 1 . Hendschel's Post Map (published by Jugel, Frankfurt) for the roads ; 2. Wieland's Zollvercin Karte for the Custom-houses; 3. Bernhard's Sprachkarte for the Dia- lects, 4. Hendschel's Eisenbahn — Atlas for the Railways, and " Illustrations to the Handbook," being a series of separate maps of the Routes contained in this book, published at the suggestion of the Editor — will be found useful. 5., Hendschel's Rhein-Panorama. There is a very good travelling map of Germany, with separate maps of the several railways, by Diez, published by Justus Perthes : Gotha, 1848. It costs, when mounted on linen and in a case, 3 thalers = 9s. 34. MODES OF TRAVELLING. — POSTING, OR EXTRA POST. — LAUFZETTEL. Posting throughout Germany has been placed on a much improved footing, though still inferior to what it is in England, in the quickness of travelling, speed of changing, and goodness of the horses. On all the great roads, with hardly one exception, the postmasters will provide carriages (usually open caleches) for persons who have none of their own, but they are often dirty, and generally very uncomfortable. In the large towns of Germany the traveller who requires post-horses must forward his passport beforehand to the postmaster. At least an hour's previous notice is required. The horses should not be brought to the door a moment before they are wanted, as an extra charge is made for every half-hour they are kept in waiting. The postmasters, in great towns, and where the king and court reside, &c, are entitled to make an extra charge of \ or § post for horses, on the first stage into or out of the town, which is called a royal post (or poste de faveur). In Germany the traveller pays only for the actual number of horses he uses. On hilly stages the postmaster is empowered to compel travellers to take leaders (vorspann) to drag their carriage up the ascents. He receives a docu- ment, officially signed by the postmaster-general, to entitle him to make this de- mand, and must produce the paper if travellers require to see it. With these two exceptions, a traveller is obliged to take on, from every post station, as many horses as brought his carriage to it. This may sometimes be avoided by paying a postmaster, at the beginning of the journey, for the additional horses he is entitled to put on, without attaching them, or having them mentioned or included in the ticket. Be always on your guard against any concession in regard to extra horses, for if once on there is no getting them off again. Whenever an extra horse is taken, either from necessity, on account of heavy roads, or in order to push on, take care to have this stated distinctly on the posting ticket. These posting tickets, or receipts, serve as a check against overcharges, and should always be demanded. German postilions are proverbial for their slowness, and, excepting in parts of Prussia, in Baden, in the countries where the post is managed by the Prince of Thurn and Taxis, and in some parts of Austria, 1 Germ. m. an hour, including stoppages, is as much as can be calculated on. Postilion's Trinkgeld (drink-money). The best general rule is to pay him as a horse, or double the tariff, if the traveller is satisfied with the postilion. He is never restricted to the sum which he can legally demand, except when he has not given satisfaction. The wealthy Germans themselves pay a postilion in Prussia, &c. — For 2 or 3 horses 1 mile from 10 to 12 silver groschen. — 4 — — 18 to 20 •— In Baden and South Germany — For 2 horses 1 post 1 fl. to 1 fl. 12 kr. — 4 — — 1 fl. 30 kr. to 2 fl. ■ When' 2 carriages drawn by post-horses meet at or near the middle of a 204 34. POSTING. LAUFZETTEL, Sect. Ill, stage, the postilions generally expect to be allowed to stop and transfer them- selves and their horses, so that each may return home at once. In N. Germany this cannot he done without the traveller's permission. No variation is made in consequence in the sum paid to the postilion who drives to the end of the stage. It is not wise to resist this, except under peculiar circumstances : the men usually drive, and the horses go, better homeward ; besides, a relay is thus sometimes- secured on stages where horses are scarce. The German postboy is sometimes familiarly addressed by the term Schwager (brother-in-law) : the reason of this singular title is not satisfactorily explained. At every posthouse a book is kept in which the traveller can enter all com- plaints which he has to make against the postmaster. These, of course, cannot be redressed unless the name and address of the complainant be affixed. " In all cases of serious dispute with a postmaster or innkeeper, reference should be made to the magistrate of the district, not to the village officer, who is not likely to do justice to a stranger against a fellow townsman. The mere threat of this will often settle a dispute, by diminishing the probability of imposition being connived at." L. M. r. A post-caleche costs about as much as a third horse. The Wagenmeister (coachmaster), a kind of superior ostler, who superintends the postboys, is sometimes entitled to a small fee on putting the horses to. Schmiergeld (grease-money). On driving up to the posthouse, the traveller is often addressed with the words, " Wollen sie schmieren lassen? " (Will you have the wheels greased ?) Whether this is done or not, in some countries the fee is exacted ; but more frequently it is only paid when the grease is actually applied. There is a regulation in some parts of Germany which compels travellers who have arrived with post-horses, at any place where there is a post-station, to con- tinue their journey with post-horses, or else to remain 24 or even 48 hours on the spot, before they can avail themselves of any other mode of conveyance. This rule is not always enforced. Number of Horses. — An open carriage (caleche or britzka), not very heavy, and without an imperial, is very often drawn by 2 horses only, even with 3 persons ; while a close chariot always requires 3 horses, even though there be only one person inside. Where 3 horses are necessary for a carriage, the third horse is not harnessed abreast, as in France and Belgium, but before the other 2, at the end of the pole. In many parts of Germany, if the carriage be not provided with a box in front, from which the postilion can drive, a thud (or extra) horse must be taken for him to ride on. Comparative expense (exclusive of turnpikes) of Posting per English mile ----- 2 Horses. Postilion. S. d. d. In Austria 5 2f Bavaria 5i 21 Prussia 6* 2f Belgium 6£ H England 1 6 3 Total. s. d. 7f 8i 9i lOf 1 9 L. S. Fuller details of charges for posting in the different countries of Germany will be found in the introductory information prefixed to the routes through each of those countries. Laufzettel. — Travellers pressed for time, and desirous of avoiding all delay at post-houses, may bespeak relays of horses along the road they are about to travel, on application at the Poste aux Chevaux or the post-office of the town Germany. 35. diligences. 205 from which they set out. They must apply at least 12 hours before the time they intend to start, must state in writing when they intend to depart, the route they propose to follow, and the number of horses they require ; and the post- master will send on beforehand and make arrangements accordingly. This order is called a Laufzettel, and may be obtained at a trifling expense. " It is in use, I believe, throughout Germany, certainly in Prussia, Saxony, Bavaria, and Hesse Cassel. I found, indeed, that wherever a diligence or schnellpost travelled you might have a laufzettel. The value of this in short days, and when you wish to get rapidly over an uninteresting country, is very great ; and in the harvest, when post-horses and postilions are constantly employed in the fields, you will sometimes find it difficult to get through 70 or 80 English miles in 2 days without a laufzettel. I always found my horses, on all routes, ready harnessed, and put to the carriage almost as quickly as is done at Hounslow, when I had taken the precaution of bespeaking them in this manner." — D. J. " In Austria, Prussia, and other parts of Germany, travellers have the power of taking- the post-horses ' en courier ' (courier-massig) ; the charge is about one-half more ; but the postilion is bound to drive 2 German m. in 1 hour, and to change in 5 minutes by day and 10 by night. 3 ' courier horses ' will not cost more than 4 ' extra post-horses,' and will travel a great deal quicker." — Dr. R. The rate of ordinary posting is, at least in Prussia, 2 Germ. m. in 1 h. 20 min. Tolls. — The practice of including the tolls in the charge for the horses is extending in Germany, much to the convenience of the traveller. 35. DILIGENCES (called in Prussia Schnellposten, in Austria Eilvcagen). The post-office and public conveyances belong to the Government, and are managed by its officers, with very few exceptions, in all the German states. The Schnellpost, or Eilwagen, is placed under the care of a guard, called Conducteur, or Schirrmeister. In most cases the seats are numbered, and passengers are placed in the order in which their places are engaged. The first numbers are affixed to the corner seats, which of course are more desirable than those in the middle, especially for night travelling. On this account, it will be perceived how advantageous it is to engage the place as long as possible before the time of starting. The fare must be paid beforehand, and a receipt is always given for it, and for baggage, whether the passenger takes it with him or sends it by the waggon. The greatest care is taken of the baggage of travellers all over the Continent : instances of loss are very rare. Every package must be distinctly addressed, with the name and destination of the person to whom it belongs ; otherwise the post-office will not be responsible for it if lost. In Prussia, Austria, and many other parts of Germany, when all the places in the main diligence (Hauptwagen) are booked, additional carriages (bei-chaisen) are prepared for extra passengers — a very great accommodation. On some occasions, for instance during the Leipzig fair, as many as 20 or 30 additional carriages are attached, and set out and travel in company. Passengers cannot be called for at their own houses, but must meet the diligence at the coach-office, and must send their luggage at least an hour before. Every article is weighed and entered in a book. A certain weight is allowed to each passenger ; all above that must be paid for : large trunks must be sent by a baggage-waggon. The Conducteur is usually a superior person to the English guard ; and, besides his duties, has the charge of paying postilions, and is responsible for the baggage of his passengers. He is not entitled to any remuneration from them ; indeed, in many cases he is forbidden to acccept any. Rate of Fares per Germ. m. 8 to 10 S. gr. = 28 to 36 kr. = 9$ 30 Cologne & Minden EaUwav}' Station. F 7 31 Jiilichs Mate E 4 32 Landing place of the DusseJdorf Steamers D 5 33 J) ? of tiw Cologne. Steamers D 6 34 Post Office. E 3 [35 Police- Office, E 3 36 Post horse Establ t E 3 3 «reaThoi ■• 1 Cttthfilral 2 Stjb&rs 3 .s.rivii/ii 4 Jrsuit.r Ck ■ 5 S-Mtiria ui (tipitol 6 AftosHcn' Ch . 7 Sf&non 8 s.' Martin !' S' ('tmilxrf 10 S? Tantalum 11 Minorites Ov. 12 SfCanye L'i StSevain W SfMauriee IB S'.A,„hr» ft * \23 Kmflutus D3 ^4Z<»(,/„„„ - E 4 25 Arrrst luau 1 4 3fi am lliiinrrthru-m K & 27 tunLarh 28A.W, Itailmiy Station jj 2 12 29 J/> /„ ChufMlr Baikeap Station U ff .K) Cologne. &lBndai Jiai/n-qv Station F 7 31 JiilichiMabt E 4 3J Landing place of the Duaeeldarf Steamen D 5 ,&.*■ e a X. n.lin- tWnv li 3 :«', Buthena Esutbl ' £ .') » Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE 36.— cologne, commerce. 245 was declared king of the Franks at Cologne. From the middle of the 12th nearly to the end of the 15th cent., Cologne was the most flourishing city of Northern Europe, one of the chief emporiums of the Hanseatic League, concentrating the trade of the East, and keeping up a direct and constant communication with Italy. From this connection, not only the productions, hut also the arts of the East, were at once transferred to the then remote West of Europe. The architecture of many of the oldest churches is identical with that of Italv, and there is some similarity between the paintings of the early Italian and Rhenish schools ; it is even probable that the Southern school of art was indebted to the artists of the North for some portion of its excellence. " In the middle ages, from its wealth, power, and the considerable ecclesiasti- cal foundations of its bishops, it was often called the Rome of the North." — Hope, Another relic of the ancient al- liance with Italy is the Carnival, which is celebrated here, and nowhere else in the N. of Europe, in the same manner, and almost with as much spirit and pomp of masquerading, &c, as in Rome or Venice. The procession of masks is tolerated even in the streets here, and in one or two other towns of the Rhenish provinces, as an ancient custom. Another amusement common in Italy, but found nowhere in Ger- many but at Cologne, is the Puppet Theatre (Puppen Theater — Hfflfmes- chen), Blind - Gasse, near the Hay- market, where droll farces are per- formed by dolls ; and the dialogue, spoken in the patois of the country, and full of satirical local allusions, is carried on by persons concealed behind the scenes. Cologne has an interest for the Eng- lishman, inasmuch as "William Caxton settled here, 1470, and here learned the art of printing, which he speedily trans- ferred to his own country. In 1259 Cologne obtained the staple right by which all vessels were com- pelled to unload here, and ship their cargoes in Cologne bottoms. The Co- logne merchants enjoyed important pri- vileges in England ; Henry VI. granted them the exclusive use of the Guildhall in London. After its period of pros- perity and splendour, during which the city could send forth 30,000 fighting men, came the season of decay. Com- merce took a new route across the con- tinent of Europe, and Cologne fell under the blighting domination of priests. The uncontrolled sway of bigoted ec- clesiastical rulers, on 3 occasions, marred its prosperity, and finally com- pleted its downfall. The first injurious act of intolerance was the persecution and expulsion of the Jews, 1425 ; the second, the banishment of the weavers ; and the third, the expatriation of the Protestants, 1618. The injury done to the city by these arbitrary acts is best proved by the desolate condition to which they reduced it, contrasted with the increasing prosperity of Aix-la- Chapelle, Verviers, Elberfeld, Dussel- dorf, Muhlheim, Solingen, and other cities, in which the exiles, victims of these persecutions, who were almost invariably the most industrious and useful citizens, settled themselves. During this period the number of churches and convents multiplied enor- mously. Cologne is said to have had as many steeples as there were days in the year ; there are still 20 churches here. Before the French revolution, the number of buildings devoted to re- ligious uses was 200 ; she is now con- tent with 29, but many of the buildings remain, applied to the secular purposes to which the French first turned them. 2500 of the inhab. were ecclesiastics ; and, as a natural consequence, more than twice that number were beggars, who subsisted principally on the monks. The French revolution nowhere created a greater change than here ; the rich foundations were all plundered, the convents secularised, the churches stripped, and converted into warehouses and stables. The transport of corn and Rhenish wine down the Rhine, and into the neighbouring countries of Holland, Belgium, and Westphalia, employs a great many vessels and persons. There are considerable sugar refineries here. Of late years trade has greatly re- vived ; improvements have followed in- 246 ROUTE 36. — COLOGNE. CATHEDRAL. Sect, IV. creasing prosperity, and- under the Prus- sian government the town is throwing off the dirty and gloomy appearance for which it was notorious, Many of the streets have heen widened and pared, new streets and houses built, and old ones repaired;: and some of the tho- roughfares boast of traffic and crowds like those of London. A large portion of the space enclosed within the walls, formerly the fields and gardens of con- ventual houses, is rapidly becoming covered with buildings. One of the leading causes of the de- cline of the prosperity of Cologne in the 16th cent., was the closing of the na- vigation of the Rhine by the Dutch. This restriction was removed in 1837, pursuant to treaty, and Cologne now trades directly with the countries be- yond sea. Seagoing vessels are con- structed here. A new quay with bonded warehouses has been constructed just below the bridge. Seagoing vessels lie alongside. The yearly increasing pros- perity, fostered by the continuance of peace, and augmented by the conver- gence to this point of the Railroads from Paris, Antwerp, and Berlin, have caused Cologne again to raise her head high among the chief cities of Europe. This huge carcase of ruined buildings and vacant enclosures, revived by in- creasing wealth,, is swelling out into its former proportions, and flomishing both in population and industry.. The objects of interest in Cologne being spread over a wide space, the fol- lowing plan for seeing them in succes- sion, without retracing his steps, may be useful to the stranger : — Begin with the Cathedral : close to it is the Museum ; thence by the Jesuits' Church (a gorgeous combination of Gothic and Italian architecture) to St. Ursula (the curious in architecture should visit St. Cunibert's) ; from St. Ursula to St. Gereon ; pass the Roman (?) Tower to the Apostles' Church ; to St. Peter's, St. Mary's in the Capitol, the Giirzenich, and the Rathhaus, which completes the circuit. The Cathedral (Domkirche), though begun in 1248, by Archbp. Conrad of Hochsteden, has remained up to the present time a fragment, and had very nearly become a ruin.. The choir was- consecrated in 1322 : but in 1509 a stop was put to its further progress. Had the original plan been completed (views- of the intended edifice are to be pro- cured), it would have been the St. Peter's of Gothie architecture. Even in its : present state, it is one of the finest and purest Gothic monuments in Eu- rope. It is to be regretted that the name of the great architect who de- signed so splendid a structure has been lost : one Master Gerhard, who was living 1252, is the- builder earliest named, but nothing is known of him- The 2 principal towers, according to the original designs, were to have been, raised to the height of 500 ft. That which is most finished at present is not above one-third of the height. On its top still remains the crane employed by the masons to raise the stones for the building. And it has stood for cen- turies. It was once taken down ; but a tremendous thunder-storm, which oc- curred soon after, was attributed to its removal by the superstitious citizens, and it was therefore instantly replaced, or a similar one set up in its stead. Its permanent presence there may have indicated that the idea of completing this noble structure was not abandoned ;. and until recently (1849), its comple- tion appeared probable even in the present generation. From 1824 to 1842, 215,000 thalers had been laid out on the building by the late aCd present Kings of Prussia. AH this, however, was expended merely in repairs rendered indispensable by long ages of neglect. This restoration has been conducted in a masterly manner, the faulty stone from the Drachenfels, on the exterior, replaced by another of a sounder texture, and the workman- ship in the new sculpture and masonry is at least equal to the old. The stone used is no longer that of the Drachen- fels, but is brought from Andernach and Treves, and is of volcanic origin. A fresh impulse was given to the works on the accession of the present King, who contributed more largely to its funds, and on 4th Sept. 1842 laid the foundation stone of the transept, An Association also, called pom^bnu Rhenish Prussia, route 36. — cologne, cathedral. 247 Verein, has been established, with branches in all parts of Europe, to col- lect subscriptions for completing the edifice according to the original design. The architect, Zwirner, estimates the cost of finishing it at 2,000,000 dollars for the nave, transepts, &c, and 3,000,000 doll, for the towers and fa- cade; in all 750,000Z. In Sept. 1848, the nave, aisles, and transepts were thrown open ; a temporary wooden roof covering in the nave and transept just above the triforium.. The ends of the transepts are nearly completed, and the 2 portals, especially that on the S. side, are very fine. The piers which are to support the real roof are making progress. It is possible, therefore, now to judge of the full extent of the interior. The late King of Bavaria presented 5 painted windows, which have been placed in the S. aisle of the nave. The 5 painted windows in the N. aisle were executed in 1508 : the 4th from the W. entrance is the best- The entire length of the body of the church will be 511 ft., equal to the height of the Towers when finished; the breadth, 231 ft., corresponds with the height of the gable at the "W. end. " The Choir is the only part finished; 161 ft. high, and internally, from its size, height, and disposition of pillars, arches, chapels, and beautifully coloured windows, resembling a splendid vision. Externally, its double range of stupen- dous flying buttresses, and intervening piers, bristling with a forest of purfled pinnacles, strike the beholder with awe and astonishment. If completed, this would be at once the most regular and most stupendous Gothic monument existing." — Hope. The fine stained windows of" the choir (14th cent.) have been thoroughly cleaned and repaired : and some concealed frescoes brought to light on the walls have caused them to be decorated afresh by Steinle and artists of the Dusseldorf school. Round the choir, against the columns, stand 14 colossal statues of the 12 Apostles, the Virgin, and Saviour, gaudily coloured and gilt, sculptured in the beginning of the 14th cent. Of the same date are the finely carved stalls and seats of the choir. In a small chapel immediately behind the high altar is the celebrated Shrine of the Three Kings of Cologne, or Magi, who came from the East with presents for the infant Saviour. Their bones were carried off from S. Eustorgio at Milan by the Emp. Frederic Barbarossa, when he took that city by storm (1162), and were presented by him to Rainaldo Archbp. of Cologne, who had accom- panied him on his warlike expedition. — N. Italy Hdbk. 166. The case in which they are deposited is of plates of silver gilt, and curiously wrought, surrounded by small arcades, supported on pillars, enclosing figures of the Apostles and Prophets. The vast treasures which once decorated it were sadly diminished at the time of the French revolution, when the shrine and its contents were transported for safety by the chapter to Arnsberg, in Westphalia. Many of the jewels were sold to maintain the persons who accompanied it, and have been re- placed by paste or glass imitations ; but the precious stones, the gems, cameos, and rich enamels which still remain, will give a fair notion of its riches and magnificence in its original state. The skulls of the three kings, inscribed with their names — Gasper, Melchior, and Balthazer — written in rubies, are ex- hibited to view through an opening in the shrine, crowned with diadems (a ghastly contrast), which were of gold, and studded with real jewels, but are now only silver gilt. Among the an- tiques still remaining are 2, of Leda, and Cupid and Psyche, very beautiful. On the front of the shrine are these 2 monkish leonine lines, asserting the possession of the entire royal remains, against all rival proprietors of relics : — Corpora sanctorum reeubant hie tenia Mago- rum, Ex his sublatum nihil est, alibive loeatum. Those who show the tomb assert that its treasures are still worth 6 millions of francs == 240,000?. : this is an exag- geration, no doubt. This shrine is opened to the public gaze on Sundays and festivals; but those who desire to see it at other times, or to have a nearer and more minute view of it, must apply to the sacristan, and 248 ROUTE 36,— COLOGNE. ST. PETER'S. Sect. IV, pay a fee of 1^ th., which admits a party to see it and the sacristy. Tickets at 15 S. gr. each are taken from the verger to see the choir, Dombild, and altars : 20 S. gr. are paid for ascending to the roof. Under a slab in the pavement, be- tween the high altar and the shrine of the three kings, the heart of Mary of Medicis is buried. In the adjoining side chapels around the choir are se- veral monuments of Archbishops of Cologne ; the most remarkable are those of Conrad of Hochsteden (its founder), of bronze (1261), and that of Philip of Heinsberg (1191), surrounded by a mural parapet, to signify that he built the walls of Cologne. In the side chapel of St. Agnes, on the right of the Magi, is a very ancient painting, in distemper, called the Dom- bild (the Cathedral picture), bearing the date 1410. It represents the Patron Saints of the city of Cologne, viz. — in the centre, the Adoration of the Magi, or the Three Kings ; on the one side, St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins ; on the other, St. Gereon with the Theban Legion. It is a masterly production for so early a period. The artist is not known, but is conjectured to be Stephen of Cologne, a pupil of Master William of Cologne, mentioned in the Limburg Chronicle as the best painter in Ger- many. In the Sacristy are many relics of Saints, including a bone of St. Mat- thew ; St. Engelbert's shrine of silver, ornamented with reliefs of good work- manship, date 1635; some church plate, and the like curiosities — among them the Sword of Justice, with a finely chased scabbard, borne by the Electors of Cologne at the coronation of the Emperor ; 10 elaborate carvings in ivory ; the State Cross of the Arch- bishop, 7 ft. high, ornamented with enamel ; and a Pax of solid gold, 5 in. by 4. It is well worth while to climb up to the triforium gallery to appreciate the grandeur of the edifice, and to examine the painted glass ; or even to mount to the roof for the sake of the view of the town, and of the exterior of the edifice. No one should omit like- wise to visit the workshops (Bauhiitteri), to inspect the sculptured capitals, bosses, &c. prepared for the new build* ings : 20 S. gr. entrance. The best description of the Dom is that by Binzer. There is an excellent view of the Dom as intended to be com- pleted, from Zwirner's design, pub- lished by Elsen. The Church of St. Peter contains the famous altar-piece of the Crucifixion of that Saint, with his head downwards, by Rubens, who presented it to this church, in which he was baptized. The picture usually exposed to view is a copy made when the original was car- ried to Paris ; but for a fee of 15 S. gr. (for a party), the sacristan will turn the picture round, and display the ori- ginal at the back of the copy. On Sundays and festivals the original is turned outwards. " It was painted a little time before Eubens's death. The body and head of the Saint are the only good parts in this picture, which is finely coloured (broad light and shade), and well drawn ; but the figure bends too suddenly from the thighs, which are ill drawn, or rather in a bad taste of drawing ; as is likewise his arm, which has a short interrupted outline. The action of the malefactors (execu- tioners) has not that energy which he usually gave to his figures. Rubens, in his letters to Gildorp, expresses his own approbation of this picture, which he says was the best he ever painted : he likewise expresses his content and happiness in the subject, as being pic- turesque ; this is likewise natural to such a mind as that of Rubens, who was, perhaps, too much looking about him for the picturesque or something uncommon. A man with his head downwards is certainly a more extra- ordinary object than in its natural place. Many parts of this picture are so feebly drawn, and with so tame a pencil, that I cannot help suspecting that Rubens died before he had com- pleted it, and that it was finished by some of his scholars."— ■&> J. Reynolds. " The composition is the best part of this picture : the bringing of the figures together is most original and skilful, and presents the difficulty of a bad sub- Rhenish Prussia, r. 36. — st. Ursula. Jesuits, santa maria. 249 ject overcome. Still the painting, ex- cept in the left shoulder and hreast of the Saint, is below the usual run of this great master ; though done indeed with great power, yet in the drawing of the figures the indication of anatomy is far from good." — Wilkie. The 3 painted E. windows are fine, repre- senting — 1. Christ bearing his Cross; 2. Crucifixion; 3. Descent from the Cross. They were executed 1528- 1530. The brazen font in which Rubens was baptized still exists in this church. The Ch. of St. Ursula, and of the 1 1,000 Virgins (built partly in the 12th, partly in the 14th and 15th cent.), is too singular a sight not to be visited. It is situated just within the walls, and is not remarkable in its architecture, but is filled with the bones of St. Ur- sula's companions. That saintly lady (according to the legend, a princess of Brittany or Armorica) set sail with her virgin train from Brittany for Rome, and sailed up the Rhine to Bale, whence she proceeded to Rome, on her return from which place the whole party was slaughtered at Cologne by the barbarian Huns, because they refused to break their vows of chastity. (See p. 123, and the Cologne version of the story, for there are many versions, in Mrs. Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art, vol. ii. p. 115.) On entering the church these hideous relics meet the eye, beneath, above, around : they are built into the walls, buried under the pave- ment, and displayed in gaunt array in glass cases about the choir. The Saint herself reposes in a coffin behind the altar, while the skulls of a select few of her associates are admitted to the Golden Chamber, encased in silver, along with a number of other relics, such as one of the stone vessels which held the water that was turned into wine at the Marriage in Cana, &c. A bad picture in the church represents the landing of this female army of Saints at Cologne. Some, who have been staggered at the number of Ursula's maiden train, have supposed that the legend arose from confounding the name of one of her attendants, Undecimilla, with the num- ber undccim millia (11,000). But it is hardly worth while to try to reduce the childish tales of the monks to the limits of probability, more especially as in the cyclical revolution of opinions they have again found admirers. The church contains a curious series of old German pictures of the Apostles painted on slate, 1224. The Church of the Jesuits (Maria Himmelfahrt) dates from 1636, and, like others erected by the order, is over- loaded with gorgeous decorations of marble, sculpture, &c. It contains the crozier of St. Francis Xavier, and the rosary of St. Ignatius Loyola. Its bells were cast out of the cannon taken at Magdeburg by Tilly, and presented by him to this church. Travellers interested in architecture will find in Cologne many excellent examples of the round style, with some specimens of the transition style from the round to the pointed. Romanesque has been adopted as a general term to denote the round style ; Lombard, Nor- man, and Saxon, when speaking of it as varied in the countries to which those names refer. " The east ends of these [Romanesque] churches look like those of the Greeks, or the mosques of Constantinople." — Hope. The archi- tects who designed these earliest churches at Cologne, and many similar along the Rhine, had evidently studied the Lombard churches of Pavia, which became familiar to the inhabitants of the banks of the Rhine by the residence of the Carlovingian Emperors in that capital of their Italian dominions (Hbk. for N. Italy, p. 208; Gaily Knight, Eccles. Archit. of Italy, vol. i. ; Bois- seree, Denkmale der Baukunst am Nieder-Rhein). The architectural tra- veller will visit Sta. Maria in Capitolio, the Ch. of the Apostles, St. Gereon, St. Martin, St. Cunibert, and St. Pan- taleon. Santa Maria in Capitolio, so called from its occupying the site of the capitol of the Roman city, stands on a height surmounted by a flight of steps. The Frankish kings had a palace here, to which, in 696, Plectrudis, the wife of Pepin of Heristal, retired, having sepa- rated from her husband on account of his attachment to Alpais, the mother of M 3 250 FvOurE 36.— -cologne, the apostles', st. geeeon's. Sect. IV. Charles Martel. She, in 700, removed the capitol, and built a church and a nunnery on its site. It has been con- tended that the existing church is nearly entirely of that period. It is more pro- bable that the greater part at least was built about 1000. Observe the upper circuit of the choir, both inside and outside. Inside, the coupled columns, with their rich arabesque capitals, are in -the style of the 11th or 12th cent. ; outside, the wall is crowned by a row of arches on small pillars. The transepts are in an older and plainer style. The lower windows of the choir have been filled with tracery of the latest period of the pointed style. The pointed vaulting of the nave is appa- rently a restoration of the latter part of the 14th cent. " Externally, in the same style with the Gh. of the Apostles ; internally resembling a Greek church still more, and, in fact, a counterpart of one existing among the ruins of Seleucia, since round its semicircular absides and east end run internally semicircrdar rows of columns support- ing round arches.''' — Hope. The effigy of Plectrudis, a very early work (10th cent.), is let into the wall outside of the choir. The doors of the M, transept, carved with scriptural subjects in relief, executed at the end of the 12th cent, at the latest, are very curious (compare the doors at Hildesheim);.. The walls of the Hardenrath chapel are covered with paintings by an old German master (1466) ; and the windows have some good stained glass. That of the Schwarz family, with groined vaulting, contains the brass font (1594), surmounted by a figure of St. Martin on horseback. A picture attributed to Albert Diirer is shown here,, but is. certainly not by him. The wajls of the crypt,, now a salt depot, are covered with ancient paint- ings nearly effaced. The. tower was built after 1637, when the old one fell. The convent has disappeared. A clois- ter of the 10th cent, remains and has been restored. The Apostles' Church, in the Neu- markt, was begun in 1020, and finished in 1035, It suffered from fire in 1098 and 1199, and was partly rebuilt in the beginning of the 13th cent. It has a double transept.. To the earlier build- ing belong the choir, the eastern tran- sept and octagonal cupola, the 2 small towers, the lower part of the nave, and the great tower. The western transept and upper part of the nave are the parts rebuilt in the 13th cent. The vaulting of the nave, which had become ruinous, has been lately restored in wood, after the old pattern. This church has " 3 absides, or ^ circular cupolas, with slim octagonal steeples between them, rising undimdnished to the top, from the transepts and the choir. Their common centre is crowned by an octagonal cupola, which, as well as the 3 absides, is belted, imme- diately under the cornice, by galleries of small arches, on small columns, coupled in the depth of the arch, rest- ing on a panelled balustrade^ such as is displayed by all the other churches here and on the Rhine of the- same period, and covered with a low ribbed roof of lead, so as to present a striking resem- blance to some of the oldest Greek churches in some of the remotest parts of Asia Minor ; and at the same time in its proportions as airy and elegant, and calculated to magnify its. apparent size, as the heavy, clumsy, English- Saxon roof often does the contrary." — Hope. St.. G-ereoris Kirche., another ossuary, since it is lined with the bones of the Theban Legion of 6000 martyrs, slain, according to the legend told here, either on this spot or at Xanten (see p. 236), during the persecution of Diocletian, is one of the finest and most ancient churches in Cologne. The decagonal portion dates from 1212 ; the rest of the church, including the choir and the crypt, was built 1066-69. The earlier building is in the round style, except where some repairs were executed, as is thought, after a storm in 1434 ; the latter shows a preponderating mixture of the pointed. "By a singular and theatrical arrangement, arising out of these various increments, its body pre- sents a vast decagonal shell and cupola, the pillars of whose internal angles are prolonged in ribs, which, centering in a summit, meet in one point, and lead by a high and wide flight of steps, ris- ing opposite the entrance, to an altar Rhenish Prussia. route 36.' — churches., the museum. 251 and oblong choir behind it; whence other steps again ascend to the area between the 2 high square towers, and to the ^ circular east end, belted as well as the cupola by galleries with small arches and pillars, on a panelled balus- trade, in the style of the Ch. of the Apostles. The entrance-door, with square lintel, low pediment, and pointed arch, is elegant ; and the crypts (well worth visiting) show some remains of handsome mosaics." — Hope. The bap- tistery is a very elegant building, in the transition style of the decagonal church. It contains a font of porphyry, said to be a gift of Charlemagne. The sacristy, in the pointed style, is apparently of the 14th cent. It contains some painted glass. St. Martin. In 977 Archbp. Wa- rinus entirely rebuilt this church ; that founded by Pepin d'Heristal having fallen into decay. Of this building, the choir, the transepts, the central tower, and the aisles, remain. The tower was not, however, completed until the next cent., and the 2 small towers on the E. side of it were added in 1072. The upper part of the nave and the vestibule are in the oldest pointed style, having been built by the Abbot Gotschalk about 1172. The interior was modern- ised in 1790. In the church is an oc- tagonal font of white marble, a Roman work of the time of the Empire, and having apparently been a labrum of a bath. "St. Martin likewise shows, inter- nally, the Greek distribution." — Hope., Near St.. Gereon's is the Arresthaus, or new prison, built on the radiating panopticon plan. St.. Cunibert, finished in 1248, the year the Dom was begun, but in a style totally different from it, is a re-> markable instance of the adherence to the older style after the pointed style had become prevalent and perfect. The largest tower was burnt in 137&, and rebuilt in 1388, in the pointed style. It fell down in 1830, while undergoing repairs, and destroyed the vaulting of the adjoining parts of the nave and transepts : these have been restored. It contains the oldest painted glass in the country, of most glowing hues, and has an elegant portal. St. Pantaleon is in part, perhaps, the oldest Christian structure in Cologne, since the lower part of the great tower, and the walls connected with it, are probably not later than 980. It was built by Archbishop Bruno, with the materials of the Roman bridge and Castle of Deutz. The greater part of the present ch. is of the year 1622. It is now the Evangelic Garrison church, and its tower supports a telegraph.. In the Ch. of the Minorites (13th cent.) is the tomb of Duns Scotus, and a fine organ. St.. George, 1060-74. The vaulting is later : the choir is higher than the nave : there is a crypt, and a baptistery of 1200. The Museum (Trankgasse, No. 7, close to the cathedral; admittance fee 10 S. gr.. each person ; on Sundays and holidays it is open free from 10 to 12^) is chiefly occupied with works of art bequeathed by Prof. Wallraff to his native city, consisting of early specimens of the School of Cologne*, which, however, are unnamed and uncatalogued. Among the more remarkable are — the Last Judgment, by Master Stephan (1410) (the angels are painted of the brightest ultra-marine by this master and others of the same school) ;. the Death of the Virgin, by Schoreel; and a Descent from the Cross, by Israel von Mechencn (1488) ; also a Virgin and Child, and several others, by Master William of Cologne (1380). These pictures deserve attention as monuments of a school whose very existence was almost unknown till the present cent. We are now aware that, nearly simultaneously with the revival of painting in Italy, there sprang up a race of artists on the banks of the Rhine, and in the Netherlands, who succeeded in raising art from the de- gradation into which it had fallen in the hands of the Byzantine painters, to a comparative state of excellence ; and maintained that peculiar style which is seen in the greatest perfection in the works of Van Eyck, Hemling, and Schoreel.. In order to appreciate tho- roughly the works of the early German *• See Kvtgler's Handbook of Painting, $ xi. 252 ROUTE 36. — EAU DE COLOGNE. DEUTZ. Sect. IV. painters, it is necessary to see the Boisseree Collection, now in the Mu- nich Gallery, which was itself formed at Cologne. Among the pictures by modern artists, observe the Captive Jews at Babylon, by Bendemann, " no less re- markable for the simple beauty of the composition, than for the depth and earnestness' of feeling it expresses ;" the Convent Court, in a snow-storm, by Lessing, is also good. In the lower story are many Roman antiquities, some of which are curious as having been found in or near Co- logne ; besides these are several busts and statues, and one specimen of sculp- ture, distinguished as a work of Grecian art, of great beauty and value — it is the Head of Medusa, resembling the famous " Medusa Rondinini," in the Glyptothek at Munich, but larger, and it is said to be even finer. Those who take interest in Art will find many private collections of pictures here ; the most interesting being those of Messrs. Kerp (Johannes Strasse), Merlo (Unter Fettenhennen), Bau- meister, F. Zanoli, &c. &c. ; they are, however, for the most part, limited to works of the Old German masters. The Rathhaus (Town-hall) is a cu- rious building, erected at different pe- riods ; the Gothic tower, containing the Archives, in 1414 ; the marble portal, or double arcade, in the Italian style, in 1571 ; the ground-floor in the 13th cent. The interior contains nothing remarkable, but in the Gothic Hansa Saal, now closed, were held the meet- ings of that mercantile confederation which at one time carried on the com- merce of the world. In the ancient Kaufhaus or Giirze- nich (so called from the person who gave the ground on which it stands), finished in 1474, several Diets of the Empire were held, and many German Emperors entertained at the hospitable board of the patrician magistrates, in the huge hall which occupies the 1st floor : here the carnival balls are given, and the Art-Union exhibition takes place in July. It has a remarkably fine Gothic fireplace. The House of the Templars, in the Rheingasse, No. 8, supposed to be of the 12th or 13th cent., has lately been repaired, and now serves as the Exchange and Chamber of Commerce. The Casino is a handsome new building, near the theatre, provided with ball and reading rooms, where newspapers are taken in. The Regier- ungs Gebaude is also a handsome edifice. Maria de' Medici died, 1642, in the house, No. 10, Sternengasse ; her re- mains, except the heart, were carried to France. Rubens was born in the same house, 1577. Eau de Cologne, so renowned all over the world, is an article of considerable commerce for the city. There are 24 manufacturers, and several who bear the same name ; but the original Jean Marie Farina, the rightful heir of the inventor (1670-1680), the best fabri- cator of Eau de Cologne, is to be found opposite the Julichs Platz. Za- noli, Hochstrasse, also may be recom- mended. A box (6 bottles) costs 2 th. 10 S. gr. The value of this manufac- ture cannot fail to be appreciated on the spot. One of the peculiarities of Co- logne, its filthiness, will not long escape the attention, or the nose, of the stranger ; it occasioned the following verses of Coleridge : — Ye nymphs, who reign o'er sewers and sinks, The river Rhine, it is well known, Doth wash your city of Cologne : — But tell me, nymphs, what power divine Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine ? Baedeker, Hochstrasse 134 A, has a good store of guide books, &c. Physician. Dr. Feist ; who speaks English. rt. Deutz (Hotel Bellevue, surpasses in excellence all its rivals on the 1. bank), on the rt. bank of the Rhine, connected.by the bridge of boats, nearly 1400 ft. long, with Cologne,and strongly fortified as a tete de pont, is a favourite place of resort in summer evenings. It has capital inns and many guinguettes, which afford the amusements of music, dancing, and beer-drinking to the citi- zens. A large barrack has been con- structed here with magazines of artil- lery. Deutz is said to owe its rise to a castle built here by Constantine the Great. From the extremity of the Bridge, the finest view of Cologne and Rhenish Prussia, it. 36 a. — aix-la-chafelle to dusseldorf. 253 its ranges of buildings, extending for 3 m. along the opposite bank, is ob- tained. Plans bave been prepared for a new tubular suspension bridge over the Ebine between Cologne and Deutz. It is to replace the bridge of boats, and to rest on piers sunk in the bed of the river, so strong as to resist the floods and ice of winter. [An exceedingly interesting excursion may be made from Cologne to the Cis- tercian Abbey of Altenberg, 14 m. dis- tant, 2% hours' drive, off the post-road to Minden. The Abbey lies about a mile from the post-house at Strasserhof, to the S. of the road, in the midst of beech forests, buried in the pretty re- tired valley of the Dhiin, and close to the rushing stream. There is no car- riage road to it, but a pathway turns off from the road, a little short of Stras- serhof, through a glen. The distance is a very long mile, and parts of the way are ankle deep in very wet weather. The church is a most beautiful specimen of Gothic, the choir finished in 1265, the rest in 1379 ; it is 84 ft. high, and of graceful proportions. The windows contain some beautiful painted glass ; and remains of frescoes may be traced on its walls. The high altar, richly ornamented with carvings, the pulpit, and numerous curious monuments of abbots and monks, knights and noble ladies, are in a tolerably perfect state. Among them are several of the Counts of Altena, and the Counts and Dukes of Berg, an ancient family allied to the reigning house of Brandenburg. It has been supposed that this church was designed by the architect of Cologne cathedral ; but the simplicity and so- lidity of the columns seem to indicate an artist of an earlier style. Observe the free and natural foliage of the capi- tals ; it is well executed, and with great taste. The choir windows are narrow, and tall out of all proportion ; hidden on the outside by the projecting but- tresses, and rather poor when seen within. The conventual buildings, from which the monks were turned out only about 50 years ago, were built about 1214 : they were converted into a ma- nufactory of Prussian blue, and were destroyed in 1815 by a fire which be- gan in them, and reduced part of the church to a state of impending ruin. In 1836 the King of Prussia (then Crown Prince) undertook its restora- tion. This exquisite relic of Gothic architecture has thus been saved, though at a great cost, from the destruction which was imminent. A dinner, with trout from the Dhum, may be had at the Inn (the Post) at Strasserhof.] Droskies (one-horse carriages) ply for hire in different parts of the town. The fare is fixed by a tariff hung up inside the vehicle, and the driver is bound to give a receipt for the money paid him, as a check to surcharge (see p. 244). Railroads — to Aix-la-Chapelle (Rte. 36) ;— to Bonn (Bte. 37) ;— to Diissel- dorf (Rte. 66). Steamers several times a-day, up the Rhine to Coblenz (Rte. 37), and down to jSTijmegen and Arnhem (Rte. 34), and thence to Rotterdam (Rte. 12). Schnellposts (§ 50) morning and even- ing to Coblenz (Rte. 37) ; to Cassel (2) ; to Siegen (Rte. 45 a) ; to Priim and Treves ; to Cleves, in 13 h. ; and Nij- megen (Rte. 35). ROUTE 36 a. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO DUSSELDORF. The road from Aix-la-Chapelle to Dusseldorf is good. Schnellposts in 8 hrs. 3 2 Juliers (Germ. Jiilich). Inn: Drei Konigen — civil people, and clean beds. A melancholy-looking fortress, with 3000 inhab.,in the midst of a plain, surrounded by marshes and stagnant ditches, which render it very unhealthy. The surrounding district, however, is so fertile that it has received the name of the Granary (Kornkammer) of the Rhineland. 3| Feurth : a posthouse by the road- side. "About 1£ Germ. m. from Neuss, on this road, a by-road of 2 Eng. m. conducts to the ancient Schloss Dyck, residence of the family of Salm-Dyck, which once bore the title Altgraf ; the principality was mediatised in the late war. The Castle is modernised, and offers little for observation, but the 254 ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). Sect. IV. gardens are famous for a curious and rare collection of succulent plants." — F.8. 2Neuss (p. 236). The Rhine is crossed by a flying bridge. 1£ Dusseldorf.. (Route 34, p. 234.) ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c)., FROM COLOGNE TO COBLENZ. rt. denotes the right, 1. the left bank of the Rhine, according as they would lie on the right or left of a person looking down the stream. Delkescamp's pictorial Panoramas of the Rhine and Moselle are useful and ingenious helps to tourists ; also Hendschel's excellent " Topographi- sches Rhein-Panorama," published by Jugel, Frankfurt a. M. The Rhine. " On the banks of the majestic Rhine,. There Harold gazes on a work divine, A blending of all beauties; streams and dells, Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, moun- tain, vine, And chiefless castles breathing stern fare- wells From grey but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells, " And there they stand,, as stands a lofty mind, Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, All tenantless,. save to the crannying wind, Or holding dark communion with the cloud. There was a day when they were young and proud,. Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ; . But they who fought are in a bloody shroud,. And those which wav'd are shredless dust ere- now, And the bleak battlements shall bear no fu- ture- blow. " Beneath these battlements, within those walls, Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, Doing his evil will, nor less elate Than mightier heroes of a longer date. What want these outlaws conquerors should have But History's purchas'd page to call them great, A wider space and ornamented grave ? Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. " In their baronial feuds and single fields, What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! And Love, which lent a blazon to their shields, With emblems well devis'd by amorous pride, Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; But still their flame was fierceness, and drew on Keen contest and destruction near allied, And many a tower for some fair mischief won Saw the discolour'd Rhine beneath its ruin run. " But Thou, exulting and abounding river! Making thy waves a blessing as they flow Through banks whose beauty would endure for ever, Could man but leave thy bright creation so, Nor its fair promise from the surface mow With the sharp scythe of conflict, — then to see Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know Earth pav'd like Heaven ; and to seem such to me^ Even now what wants thy stream^? — that it should Lethe be. " A thousand battles have assail'd thy hanks, But these and half their fame have pass'd away, And Slaughter heap'd on high his weltering ranks ; Their very graves are gone, and what are they? Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yester- day, And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream Glanc'd with its dancing light the sunny ray ; But o'er the blacken'd memory's blighting dream Thy waves, would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem. " Adieu to thee, fair Rhine 1 How long de- lighted The stranger fain would linger on his way ! Thine is a scene alike where souls united Or lonely contemplation thus- might s f ray ; And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey On self-condemning bosoms, it were here, Where Nature,, nor too sombre nor too gay, Wild but not rude, a\vful yet not austere, Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year. " Adieu to thee again !: a vain adieu ! There can be no farewell to scene like thine : The mind is coloured by thy every hue ; And if reluctantly the eyes resign Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovelv Rhine !. "Pis with the thankful glance of parting praise : More mighty spots, may rise — more glaring shine, But none unite in one attaching maze The brilliant, fair^ and soft, — the glories of old davs» Men. Prussia, route 37.— the rhine (c). rafts. 255 " The negligently grand, the fruiiful bloom Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen, The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom, Tiie forest's growth, and Gothic walls be- tweea The wild rocks shap'd as they had turrets been In mockery of man's art ; and these withal A race of faces happy as the scene, Whose fertile bounties here extend to all, Still springing o'er thy banks, though Empires near them fall." Byron, To the above accurate description of the poet is added another in prose, from the pen of a German, because it serves to illustrate the feelings of pride and almost veneration with which the Ehine is regarded in Germany ; it is in- deed looked upon as the national river. "There are rivers whose course is longer, and whose volume of water is greater, but none which unites almost everything that can render an earthly object magnificent and charming in the same degree as the Ehine. As it flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions, into the open sea, so it comes down from remote antiquity, associated in every age with momentous events in the history of the neighbouring nations. A river which presents so many historical recollections of Eoman conquests and defeats, of the chivalric exploits in the feudal periods, of the wars and negotiations of modern times, of the coronations of emperors, whose bones repose by its side ; on whose borders stand the two grandest monuments of the noble architecture of the middle ages ; whose banks present every variety of wild and picturesque rocks, thick forests, fertile plains ; vine- yards, sometimes gently sloping, some- times perched among lofty crags, where industry has won a domain among the fortresses of nature ; whose banks; are ornamented with populous cities, flourishing towns and villages, castles and ruins, with which a thousand legends are connected, with beautiful and romantic roads, and salutary mineral springs ; a river whose waters offer choice fish, as its banks offer the choicest wines ; which, in its course of 900 miles, affords 630 miles of uninter- rupted navigation, from Basle to the sea, and enables the inhabitants of its banks to exchange the rich and various products of its shores ; whose cities, famous for commerce, science, and works of strength, which furnish pro- tection to Germany, are also famous as the seats of Eoman colonies and of ecclesiastical councils, and are associ- ated with many of the most important events recorded in the history of man- kind ; — such a river it is not surprising that the Germans regard with a kind of reverence, and frequently call in poetry Father or King Ehine." — Dr. LlEBER. Eafts on the Ehine. — Every tra- veller on the Ehine should have his attention called to the vast floating islands of timber which he will con- stantly meet with on that river. They are the produce of the forests which cover the remote hills and mountains traversed by the Ehine and its tribu- taries, — the Neckar, the Murg, the Main, the Moselle, &c. &c. They are first hurled down, in single logs, from the almost inaccessible heights where they have grown,, and, having been felled, are committed to some rushing mountain rivulet, whenever its waters, swelled by rain or melting snow, suffice to float them.^ If the tree escape un- shattered from the rocks against which it is dashed by the stream, it is caught, bound together with other logs, and again set afloat, till it is conveyed by the tributary rivulet into the recipient river, and reaches other stations on its banks, where it is again enlarged, and intrusted to the care of boatmen to navigate.. It may thus bear the same motto as the snowball, vires acquirit eundo, until, on reaching the lower part of the Ehine, it is carefully built into one prodigious fabric, which is then navigated to Bortrecht, and sold. These constructions have the appearance of a floating village, composed of 8 or 10 little wooden huts, on a large platform of oak and deal timber. The rowers and workmen sometimes amount to 400 or 500, superintended by pilots, and a proprietor, whose habitation is superior in size and elegance to the rest. The captain places himself upon a raised platform or stage, from which he can survey the float from end to end, and direct, by words and signs, its 256 ROUTE 37.' — THE RHINE (c), RAFTS, STEAMERS, Sect. IV. movements. It is steered by means of anchors and the immense oars or sweeps of a quadruple row of rowers, placed fore and aft. The vast fabric bends and twists like a snake, when passing near dangerous eddies and narrow straits, such as are met with in the Rhine under the Lurlei and the Bingen Loch. The raft is composed of several layers of trees, placed one on the other, and strongly fastened to- gether by chains and rivets, planked over with rough deals so as to form a deck, which is sunk nearly to the level of the water. Several smaller rafts are attached to it by way of protection, besides a string of boats loaded with anchors and cables, and used for the purpose of sounding the river and going on shore. The domestic economy of an East-Indiaman, or an English man- of-war, is hardly more complete. The boatmen are often accompanied by their wives and families, and spinning, knitting, tailoring, dressmaking, are carried on ; poultry, pigs, and other animals are to be found on board — and several butchers are attached to the suite. A well-supplied boiler is at work night and day in the kitchen; the dinner-hour is announced by a basket stuck on a pole, at which signal the pilot gives the word of command, and the workmen run from all quarters to receive their messes. The con- sumption of provisions in the voyage is almost incredible. It has been stated to be, from the time the construction of the raft commences until it is sold at Dort, 45,000 lbs. of bread, 30,000 lbs. of fresh and dried meat, 15,000 lbs. of butter, 10,000 lbs. of cheese, 50 sacks of dried vegetables, 500 tuns of beer, 8 butts of wine, and several other articles in proportion. The expenses are so great that a large capital is necessary to undertake a raft. Their navigation is a matter of considerable skill, owing to the abrupt windings, the rocks and shallows of the river ; and some years ago the secret was thought to be mo- nopolised by a boatman of Riidesheim and his sons. At present the rafts are not so large as formerly; instead of 900 feet in length, they are now commonly not more than 600 or 700 ; they never ex- ceed 250 in breadth, and are subjected to be measured at Caub, to ascertain that they do not exceed this width ; if larger they could not pass through the narrow channel between the rocks at Oberwesel. They do not draw more than 2 or 3 ft. of water. The smaller rafts, which still often require 400 men to navigate them, are both more easily managed, and can also set out from a higher point up the river than the larger floats. A single float is com- monly the property of a great number of shareholders. The timber is sold at the end of the voyage, and sometimes produces from 300,000 to 350,000 florins (25,000/. or 30,000/.). During the years 1839, 1840, and 1841, the average quantity of timber imported into Holland by the Rhine amounted annually to 110,500 tons Eng. weight, consisting principally of wood suited for ship and house building, wainscot logs, spars, weals, staves, and firewood ; the whole of which is consumed in Holland, with the exception of some trifling quantity sent to the colonies. The value of the Rhenish timber con- sumed annually in Holland amounts to about 170,000/. The voyage from Bingen to Dort may be performed, under favourable circumstances, in 8 days ; but it sometimes takes up 6 weeks. It is curious to find that the boatmen who navigate the Rhine still call the 1. bank of the river Frank- enland, and designate the rt. Hessen- land, — though these names no longer apply to the present possessors of either bank. Steam-Boats ox the Rhine. — (See Rte. 11.) 1. Cologne Company, plies between Cologne and Strasburg ; 2. Diisseldorf Company, between Rot- terdam and Mannheim ; 3. the Nether- landish or Dutch Company, between Rotterdam and Mannheim. At the rate of 10 or 12 m. against the stream, and of 1 5 m. with it. Steamers daily in 1851. Strasburg to Mannheim ... 1 Mannheim to Mayence . 2 or 3 Mayence to Cologne . .• 4 to 6 Cologne to Rotterdam, several. Rhen. Prussia, route 37. — THE RHINE (c). scenery. 257 As the hours of departure and arrival are constantly changing, the traveller is referred to the Companies' printed hills, which he may obtain at their offices, and find in every inn or steam- boat he enters ; or to the numerous little books, with time-tables, fares, distances, &c, published in France, Belgium, and Germany. The best are those compiled by Hendschcl, and pub- lished by Jugel, at Frankfurt a. M. Carriages are embarked and landed free of charge. The steam-boats are divided into 3 cabins: — 1. The pavilion. 2. The chief cabin. 3. The after- cabin, for servants and inferior persons. The pa- vilion differs from the second cabin only in being more expensive ; and unless a person wishes to be very exclusive, he has no occasion to take any other place than the second cabin. Meals are provided on board, at prices fixed by a printed tariff hung up in the cabin. Dinner at the table- d'hote, at 1 o'clock, 17 S. gr. ; at other times, apart, 1 dollar ; half a bottle of wine, 6 S. gros. ; tea or coffee, with bread and butter, 7 S. gr. Caution. — " Places are booked at all parts of the Rhine and at Frankfurt direct for London, daily, but the tickets so issued are available only for one set of steamers plying between Rotterdam and London. One of the Rhenish com- panies corresponds with the Batavier, which sails only once a week ; conse- quently the unwary traveller may be detained 7 days at Rotterdam, unless he choose to sacrifice the money which he has paid, and take a passage in one of the other companies' steamers." — P. F. Even upon the Rhine it is scarcely worth while, for the sake of a small saving, to bind oneself down to go by the boats of a particular com- pany. If the hour of departure happen not to suit the traveller, or he arrive too late for the boat to which he is en- gaged, he must either forfeit his money, or wait till the next day. If he pay the money in advance, he has probably only one chance in a day ; if he is free, he has three or four up and down the river. In 1827, when the Cologne company commenced, 18,000 passengers were conveyed up and down, between Cologne and Mayence; the number increased to a million yearly in 1847, and is now probably greater. The traveller who confines himself to the Rhine, and the routes contigu- ous to and branching off from it, will find that, with very few excep- tions, he may make his way very well without knowing any other language than French, which is generally spoken in the inns, passport and coach offices, and public conveyances, from Cologne to Mayence and Frankfurt, and thence to Baden. The money current upon the Rhine is, in Prussia, Dollars and Groschen (§ 48) ; higher up, in Nassau, Frankfurt, and Baden, Florins and Kreutzers. (Sec- tion VII.) Scenery of the Rhine. — The glo- ries of the Rhine commence about 20 m. above Cologne with the beautiful cluster of mountains called the Sieben- gebirge ; and the banks of the river afford, nearly up to Mayence, a succes- sion of scenes of equal beauty and variety. English travellers are often under the erroneous impression that they have seen the Rhine in passing up and down in a steam- vessel, and they hurry onwards to something beyond the Rhine. It may be said of them, in the words of a homely phrase, that they " go farther and fare worse." The views in many places, looking down upon the Rhine from its lofty banks, far surpass those from the river itself; and the small valleys, which pour in their tributary streams on the rt. hand and 1., have beauties to unfold of which the steam-driven tourist has no conception, which are entirely lost to him. At the same time, to avoid disappointment at first, he shoidd remember that below Bonn or Godesberg he will find no- thing to admire in the scenery of the river. In order thoroughly to ex- plore and appreciate the Rhine, it is necessary every now and then to make a halt, and the following places appear the most appropriate stations to remain at: — Bonn, or Godesberg; 258 ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). COLOGNE TO BONN. Sect. IV. Coblenz ; St. Goar ; Bingen ; or JRiides- heirn.* Railroad — Cologne to Bonn.. 3 - 9 Germ. m. =18 Eng. m. Trains in about 1 hr. Terminus at Cologne, near St. Pantaleon's Gate. Distance by the Bhine 22 Eng.. m. The steamers take 2^ or 3 hrs. The line runs through a plain of corn- fields, at some distance from the Khine, and near a chain of hills called Vorge- birge. 1. Kalscheuren Stat. •5. Briihl Stat., in front of the Cha- teau built by the Episcopal Elector, Clement Augustus^ 1728 ; , now belong- ing to the Prussian Government.. The King of Prussia received Q. Victoria* here in 1845, during the Beethoven fes- tival at Bonn. It contains some por- traits of Electors and old German princes, and has a garden and an old-fashioned park attached to it. The ancient Franciscan convent is now a seminary for schoolmasters. Briihl contains about 2000 inhab. 1. The hunting-seat of Falkenlust, united to Briihl by avenues of trees, also belonged to the Electors. •7. Sechtem.. At "Waldorf are remains of a Eoman aqueduct, which, extending up to the course of the Erft, conveyed its waters to the Bhine. •8. Boisdorf Stat. Here are mineral springs resembling the Seltzer water. The outline of the Seven Mountains be- yond the Bhine are a pleasing feature in the view. The Kreuzberg (p. 260), with its ch., and the village of Poppelsdorf, are seen rt. before reaching •9. Bonn.-~ Terminus situated on one side of the horse-chestnut avenue lead- ing to Poppelsdorf. Several steamers start every morning from Cologne to Coblenz, making the * Post-road. — Bonn to Coblenz. 8 Pruss. in. = 38 Eng. m. along the bank of the Rhine. Schnsllpost every morning and evening, in 5^ hours. It takes rather longer to post. Pruss. m. Remagen 2| Andernach 2£ Coblenz ,,.,...,... 2i voyage in 8 hrs., descending in 5. You may reach Mayence in 14 hrs. from Cologne, and, in 2 more, Frank- furt. At the upper end of Cologne, at the \ margin of the river r . rises the Bayen- thurm, a stately and picturesque Gothic tower of the 14th cent. From its- position, projecting into the river, it serves in winter to stave off the ice- shocks from the city below. From Cologne to Bonn the banks of the Bhine are as fiat and uninteresting as in Holland, and the villages which lie on them do not require any notice. On nearing Bonn, the picturesque out- line of the Siebengebirge (7 mountains) on the rt.. bank,, rivets the attention. rt. The castle of Siegburg, rising con- spicuously on an eminence above the Sieg, about 3 m. E. of the Bhine, is now a lunatic asylum. rt. Mouth of the river Sieg. The Sicambri (Sieg - ambri), an ancient people, lived upon its banks. rt. At Schwarz-Bheindorf, opposite Bonn, about J m. below the bridge of boats, there is a curious architectural monument — a church of 2 stories. It was erected by Arnold von Weld, Arch- bishop of Cologne, in 1151, yet it is en- tirely in the Bomanesque style, showing no traces of the pointed Gothic. The upper church, now restored for divine worship, is^surrounded by an open gal- lery or arcade, supported by more than 100 little pillars, whose bases and capi- tals exhibit a prolific variety of orna- ment. It will interest none but archi- tects and antiquaries. 1. Bonn. Inns: Der Stem (the Star), good and comfortable ; Trierischer Hof (Cour de Treves), also good and mode- rate — both in the market-place ; Colni- scher Hof (Cour de Cologne) ; Bellevue ; Koniglicher Hof (Boyal Hotel) — both in the new part of the town, outside the Coblenz gate — both have gardens down to the water side - r Bheineck, on the Bhine, 2nd rate. The red wines called Walportzheimer and Ahrbleichart, pro- duced in the neighbouring valley of the Ahr, are veiy good here. The Boisdorf mineral water is used as a substitute for the Seltzer water. Bonn, a town of 15,500 inhab., on Ehen. Prussia, route 37. — the rhine (c). bonn. 259 the 1. bank of the Ehine, is chiefly re- markable for its University, established by the King of Prussia in 1818, which has attained a high reputation on the Continent, owing to the improved dis- cipline maintained among the students and to the discernment exercised by the government in the appointment of profes- sors. Prince Albert was a student here. Among those who have already filled chairs here, the most distinguished are Niebuhr and Aug. W. Schlegel, both dead. The Electors of Cologne formerly re- sided here, having removed their court hither from Cologne in 1268. Their huge palace, built 1730, nearly | m. long, now serves to contain the Univer- sity ; and includes the Lecture -rooms, Library of about 150,000 vols., and the Academical Hall, decorated with, modern frescoes, painted under the direction of Cornelius by his pupils. The subjects are the four faculties, Philosophy, Juris- prudence, Medicine, in which Cuvier and Linnseus are conspicuous, and Theology, where Luther, Calvin, Wick- liffe, St. Jerome and the Fathers, Ignatius Loyola, and other divines, both Catholic and Protestant, are intro- duced. The same building contains the Mu- seum of Rhenish Antiquities, a very large and interesting assemblage of local re- mains discovered on the banks of the Ehine, and relics of Roman settlements in this part of Germany. It is much to be lamented that the collection is, as yet, neither named nor catalogued. The following seem to be the most remark- able objects : — A Roman altar, dedicated to Yictory, which formerly stood in the square called Romerplatz, and is sup- posed by some to be the identical Ara Ubiomm mentioned by Tacitus (Annal. I. 39). A bronze vase, bearing figures of Hercules, Mars, and Venus, in a pure style of art, found at Ziilpich. Nume- rous weapons, trinkets, vases, glass ves- sels, a winged head of Mercury, found at Haddernheim ; the gravestone of one M. Cselius, who fell in the great battle of Varus (bello Variano) against Ar- minius, very interesting from the event it commemorates, as well as for its re- presentation of Roman military cos- tume ; Jupiter's wig and a thunderbolt of bronze, from the Hundsriick ; tiles stamped with the numbers of several Roman legions (xxi. xxii.) stationed in these parts ; a Roman millstone of Men- dig tufa, and an ancient German shield of wood, dug up at Isenburg, in Westpha- lia, besides 200 bronzes. The Univer- setatspedell shows the hall — fee 5 S. gr., for the Museum 8 S. gr. The collec- tions are opened to the public Wed. and Sat., 12-1 ; the library on the same days, 2-4. An Avenue of chestnuts, about £ m. long, forming an agreeable walk, con- ducts to the Chateau of Poppelsdorf, con- taining the Museum of Natural History. The collection of minerals and fossils is extensive and good, and especially in-. teresting, as illustrating the geology of the Rhine, and of the volcanic deposits of the Siebengebirge and Eifel, arranged by Prof. Golclfuss. Among the fossil remains may be seen a complete series from the brown coal formation of Fries- dorf, near Bonn. A set of fossil frogs, from the most perfect state down to that of a tadpole, discovered in the shale called paper-coal, deserves notice. At- tached to the Chateau is the Botanic Garden, very spacious, very rich, beau- tifully situated, and admirably kept. 5 hour's walk brings you from this garden to the church on the Kreutz- berg. The Minster, a fine building exter- nally, surmounted by 5 towers, was founded, it is said, by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, and contains a bronze statue of her, in the style and of the age of Louis XIV. The dates of the building of the different parts of this ch. are not accurately known. Per- haps the high crypt, on which is ele- vated the choir, belongs to the eh. of Helena. The circuit of the choir and its 2 towers were apparently built in the 10th cent. : the rest, including the middle tower, abotitthe year 1177. The more remarkable parts are the central tower and the windows of the nave formed of 5 small pointed arches. The interior is very plain. The English Ch. Service is performed on Sunday by an English clergyman. There is a very good club (§ 40) here, 260 EOUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). BONN. Sect. IV. called Lese- and Erholungs- Gesell- schaft. Beethoven, the composer, was born (1770, d. 1827) in the house No. 934, Rheingasse. A bronze statue by Hanel was erected to him in 1845, in the Miinster-platz. In the Churchyard, out- side the Sternen Thor, Niebuhr the his- torian is buried. His monument is by Eauch. Also A. W. Schlegel. Here also are the graves of several students killed in duels. The most notable events in the annals of Bonn are its capture after a long siege, in 1584, by Archbp. Ernest of Bavaria, from Gebhard Truchsess, who had been deposed from the see because he had become a Protestant; and its surrender to the English and Dutch army under Marlborough, in 1703, after a siege, the operations of which were conducted by the celebrated Coehorn. In the course of it a great part of the town was burnt. Bonn is mentioned by Tacitus as Castra Bonnensia, and was the spot where Claudius Civilis, the rebel leader of the Batavi, was defeated by the Romans, a. d, 70, (Hist. iv. 20.) At Bonn the beauties of the Bhine may be said to have already commenced. There are several most agreeable excur- sions round about it, and the view of the Seven Mountains on the -opposite side of the river is strikingly grand. They are seen to great advantage from the Bastion, or terrace, called Alte Zoll, overlooking the Rhine, Finer still is the view from the church, on the summit of the Kreuzberg, one of the hills behind Poppelsdorf, 1J m. from Bonn. It was formerly at- tached to a convent of Servites. It was built 1627. In a chapel behind the altar are shown the Sacred Stairs which led up to Pilate's Judgment Hall, still bearing stains of the blood which fell from the wounds caused on the Saviour's brow by the Crown of Thorns ! They were built of Italian marble by the Elector Clement Augustus (1725), in imitation of the staircase at Rome called the Scala Santa ; and no one is allowed to ascend them except on his knees. A trapdoor in the pavement leads into the vaults raider the church, remarkable for having preserved, in an undecayed state, the bodies of the monks buried in them. These lie in 25 open coffins, with cowl and cassock on. The flesh in some is preserved, though shrivelled up to the J> consistence of a dried stockfish — they are in fact natural mummies, and their preservation is attributed to the dryness of the sandy soil. They have been in- terred here at various times, from 1400 to 1 7 1 3 . The church is annually visited by numerous pilgrims, chiefly the rude peasants of the Eifel. The other agreeable expeditions which may be made from Bonn are to — 1. Godesberg, on the road to Coblenz, and the Alum Works at Friesdorf ; 2. The Drachenfels and Siebengebirge, with the ruins of Heisterbach on the oppo- site side of the Rhine, described further on-, 3. The Lower Eifel (Rte. 40) ; 4. The valley of the Ahr (Rte. 39). A direct carriage-road leads over the hills to Altenahr, 18 m. The last two highly interesting and seldom explored. Steamer, Bonn to Coblenz, 4-^ hrs. (1.) After leaving Bonn about 3 m., the road * passes a Gothic Cross called Hochkreuz, erected by an Archbishop of Cologne, 1331. About 1 m. from this, to the rt of the road, are the brown- coal mines and alum-works of Friesdorf. The stratum here worked is, in fact, a forest, buried in an early period of the world's existence, and now converted into lignite or brown coal. The trunks of trees are intermixed with clays and sands, and exhibit all the stages from fossil wood, in which the vegetable fibre and texture are quite discernible, down to bituminous earthy coal fit for burning as fuel. Many fossil fishes and freshwater shells are found in these beds. Associated with the coal is a stratum furnishing the ingredients for extensive alum- works. " The alum of commerce is a compound of sulphuric acid, potash, and aluminous earth, and all these sub- stances are obtained on the spot, from materials found in contact with the alum clay. The sulphuric acid is formed by the action of air and moisture upon iron pyrites (sulphuret of iron), previ- * The Post-road quits Bonn through an archway under the Electoral Palace. Men. Prussia. it. 37.— -THE RHINE (c). godesberg 261 ously gently roasted, and the potash from the ashes of the brown coal used as fuel in evaporating and crystallising the alum salt." — II. " The same mine furnishes a fine potter's clay, which is used in making the conical moulds em- ployed in refining beet -root sugar, which is extensively manufactured here- abouts."— P. At Putzburg, near Fricsdorf, gigantic trunks of trees, sometimes 10 or 12 ft. in diameter, occur embedded in the strata. The earthy brown coal worked here affords the valuable pigment known by the name of burnt umber, or Co- logne earth. 1. Plittersdorf village. Here the steamer stops for passengers to or from Godesberg, 1 m. distant - from the Rhine, and 5 from Bonn. Here is a ferry to Meder-Dollendorf (fare, 1 S. g r 0- Godesberg. Inns: Blinzler's Hotel — Hotel Bellevue ; both very good. " The Bellevue was built as a Kursaal by the last Elector of Cologne, who projected making Godesberg a watering- place, but was prevented by the French Bevolution. Table-d'hote, 15 S. gr., in private 1 th. ; table wine (Ober- Mosler), 15 S. gr. ; breakfast and tea, 10 S. gr. ; bed, 15 S. gr."— P. Visitors may board at 5 frs. a day, exclusive of wine. Donkeys jAy near the hotel, to convey persons up to the castle, or for other excursions in the neighbour- hood. Godesberg, a village of 1000 inhab., on the high road, is, on account of its situation, one of the most agreeable summer residences on the Rhine. Near it is a mineral spring, called Draitscher Brunnen, where there are baths, 10 S. gr. each. Shaded paths wind round the hill to the ancient Castle Keep on its top. It was built by the warlike Arch- bishops of Cologne, 1212, on the site of a Roman fort, and served them long as a stronghold, till the Bavarians took it and blew it up, 1583, because it held out for the Protestant Archbp. Gebhard Truchscss. The cylindrical Donjon tower (100 ft. high, built 1340) com- mands one of the most beautiful pros- pects on the Rhine. The key is kept at the well below. The interior of the castle is now the village church- yard. Godesberg, li m. distant from the Rhine, is a convenient point for making excursions to — 1. The volcanic hill of Roderberg. 2. The Seven Mountains. The nearest way to them is to cross the Rhine by the ferry-boat to Konigswin- ter, at the foot of the Drachenfels. This excursion may be lengthened profitably, by ascending the 1. bank of the Rhine as far as Rolandseck (p. 263), and, after exploring its ruined castle, crossing in a boat to Nbnnenwerth and then drop- ping down the river to Konigswinter. The excursion will not take up more than a day, and is decidedly a very in- teresting one. 3. The short tour up the valley of the Ahr (Rte. 39). 4. "A visit to the abbey of Heisterbach may be combined with the tour of the Seven Mountains, but is better made sepa- rately, crossing the Rhine by the ferry from Plittersdorf (1.) to Nieder-Dollen- dorf. About 2 m. inland S.E. from this lie the ruins of the Cistercian Abbey of Heisterbach. A carriage-road leads to it. The pedestrian, after passing Ober- Dollendorf, will proceed by a wooded path into the Petersthal, a secluded valley at the base of the Petersberg, one of the Seven Mountains, in which the Abbey lies. A fragment — the apse of the choir — alone remains to attest its ancient magnificence. It is a beautiful specimen of the finest style of the tran- sition from the round to the pointed styles— begun in 1202, finished 1233. The building was sold for the mere value of the materials by the French in 1806, and the greater part was pulled down and removed to form the fortifica- tions of "Wesel. The beautiful frag- ment which still exists is carefully pre- served from further decay by the Count zur Lippe-Biesterfeld, its present owner, and well deserves the stranger's attention. rt. Konigswinter (Inns : H. de 1' Eu- rope, comfortable — Hotel de Berlin ; both overlooking the Rhine), a village of 1500 inhab., at the foot of the Dra- chenfels, which is most conveniently ascended from this in 30 min. Asses for the ascent of the mountain cost 10 S. gr. ; to Heisterbach, 2± m., 20 S. gr. 262 ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). SEVEN MOUNTAINS. Sect. IV. Boats to Nonnenwerth and back, 20 S. gr. ; to Bonn, 15 S. gr. rt The Seven Mountains (Sieben- gebirge). This group of hills, in reality more than 7 in number, forms a grand commencement to the beautiful scenery of the Ehine. They are the highest and wildest on its banks, entirely of volcanic origin, and consist of lava, trachyte, and basalt, ejected through the rocks, which form the basement of the surrounding country, by subterra- neous eruptions which took place pre- vious to the existence of any human re- cord or tradition. The names and heights of the 7 principal summits (for there are many minor heights) are as follows: — Stromberg, 1053 ft, ; Nie- derstromberg, 1066 ft. ; Oelberg, 1453 ft. (the highest) ; Wolkenberg, 1055 ft. ; Drachenfels, 1056 ft. ; Lowenberg, 1414 ft. (commanding a view considered by some superior to that from the Drachen- fels) ; and Hemmerich. They are al- most all crowned with a chapel or the ruin of some ancient tower or hermit's cell, which adds much to their pictur- esque features. The trachyte rock of the "Wolkenberg is quarried to a considerable extent as building stone. It abounds in the mi- neral called glassy felspar. The most interesting of the whole group, from its shape and position, but more than all from the verses of Byron, is the famed Drachenfels (Dragon Bock), whose precipices rise abruptly from the river side, crowned with a ruin. " The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the banks which bear the vine; And hills all rich with blossom'd trees, And fields which promise corn and wine, And scatter'd cities crowning these, Whose far white walls along them shine, Have strew'd a seene which I should see With double joy wert thou with me. " And peasant girls with deep blue eyes, And hands which offer early flowers., Walk smiling o'er this paradise ; Above, the frequent feudal towers Through green leaves lift their walls of gray, And many a rock which steeply lowers, And noble arch in proud decay, Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers; But one thing want these banks of Rhine, — Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine ! " The river nobly foams and flows, The charm of this enchanted ground, And all its thousand turns disclose Some fresher beauty varying round : The haughtiest breast its wish might bound Through life to dwell delighted here ; Nor could on earth a spot be found To nature and to me so dear, Could thy dear eyes in following mine Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine !" Byrox. The summit of the Drachenfels com- mands a noble view, and it may be reached in about half an hour from Konigswinter. In ascending it the tra- veller is shown the quarry from which the stones were taken to build the ca- thedral of Cologne, called, in conse- quence, Dombruch, and the cave of the Dragon (from which the mountain was named) killed, as it is reported, by the horned Siegfried, the hero of the Nie- belungen Lay. Near the top is a toler- able inn, where parties may dine, and those who wish to enjoy the sunrise from the summit find sleeping accom- modation. The ruined fragment on the top is of remote origin, and was once the seat of a noble race, long since ex- tinct, named after the mountain on which they dwelt. They were depen- dent upon the Archbp. of Cologne as feu- dal superior, and seem to have chosen this situation for their castle from the facilities it afforded them for spying at a distance the merchant's laden boat or labouring waggon, and for sallying do^Ti to pillage or exact tribute. The View hence extends down the river as far as Cologne, 20 m. off; up- wards, the Bhine is shut in by rocks, which, however, are very grand, while Bonn and its University, with old castles, villages, and farm-houses almost beyond number, fill up the foreground of the landscape. The principal objects are the summits of the 7 mountains, Bemagen and Apollinarisberg, the vol- canic chain of the Eifel behind, Ober- winter and the island JSonncnwerth, the ruined arch of Bolandseck, the ex- tinct crater of Boderberg, and the don- jon of Godesberg. The ruins on several other summits of the Seven Mountains are remains of castles of the Archbishops of Cologne. In that which crowned the Z&izmberg the reformers Melancthon and Bueer Rhen. Prussia. r. 37. — the rhine (c). rolandseck. 263 passed some time with the Archbp. Her- man von "Wied, who afterwards adopted the reformed faith ; and his successor, the Protestant Archbp. Gebhard Truch- sess, took refuge here, with his beauti- ful wife, Agnes von Mansfeldt, 1585. The view from this summit extends back over part of the Westerwald and of Westphalia. 1. In the neighbourhood of Mehlem is the Eoderberg, one of the most inter- esting extinct volcanoes on the Rhine. Its crater is circular, nearly £ m. in diameter, and 100 ft. deep. It is now covered with fields of corn. The sides are composed in many places of tufa and scoriae, exactly similar to those found on Vesuvius. From this crater you may walk through the gorge called Eliasschlucht to the ridge on which stand the ruined arch and turrets of (1.) the Castle of Rolandseck, an admirable point of view for surveying the Rhine. This ruin receives its name from a tra- dition that the famous nephew of Char- lemagne chose this spot because it com- manded a view of the Convent of Non- nenwerth, within whose walls his be- trothed bride had taken the veil upon hearing a false report of his having fallen at Roncesvalles. He lived here a lonely hermit for many years, accord- ing to the story, which has furnished the subject of one of Schiller's most beautiful ballads, " The Knight of Tog- genburg." The scene, however, has been transferred by Schiller from the Rhine to Switzerland, and the tale to the time of the Crusades. The castle is called, in the oldest records where it is mentioned, Rulcheseck, and the con- vent Rulcheswerth. The former was, at one time, a nest of robbers, whose depredations rendered them the terror of the vicinity. The bold and precipitous rock of Rolandseck, composed of prismatic basalt, with its scanty and mouldering baronial fortress and desolate arch, is a very striking object from the river, and, taken together with the Drachenfels on the opposite bank, serves as a fit portal to the grand scenery which lies above it. It projects so far forward, that the high road has barely room to pass be- tween its foot and the brink of the Rhine. There are 2 inns near the foot of the rock of Rolandseck. Exactly opposite, and in the middle of the stream, is the island of Nonnenwerth (Nun's island), so called from the large building upon it, embowered in trees, an Ursuline nunnery, built 1673, on the site of that which was once the asylum of the bride of the unfortunate Roland. The amiable intercession of Josephine with Napoleon, on behalf of the nuns, is said to have preserved to them the possession of their ancient retreat, at the time when the other re- ligious establishments on the Rhine were secularised by the French. It was for some time converted into an inn, but still remains in the condition in which it was left by its former inmates, and was about to be again converted into a nunnery, when the teoubles of 1 848 interrupted the plan. 1. Oberwinter, a village through which the road passes. The greater part of the road from Rolandseck to Remagen may be said to be literally quarried in the rock. It was begun by the Bavarians, continued by the French, and completed by the Prussians, The Romans, however, have the credit of laying the founda- tions of this noble highway, as was proved by remains turned up by the modern road-makers, such as coffins, coins, and a Roman milestone, the in- scription of which proved, that under Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, a.d. 161-180, a road had been already formed here. 1. Opposite the village of Unkel is the Unkelstein, a hill composed of ba- saltic columns, resembling those of the Giant's Causeway. They are found both in a horizontal and vertical posi- tion, and extend far into the bed of the Rhine, where they formed an obstacle to the passage of timber-rafts, until the rock was blown up by the French. As it is, the current of the Rhine sweeps with great force past the Unkelstein. The basalt affords the best material for roads and pavements, on which account it is extensively quarried. In 1846 a landslip in the basalt lifted up the high- road 40 ft. above its former level. 1. Apollinarisberg, a wooded height 264 ROUTE 37 ♦ — THE RHINE (c), REMAGEN". LINZ. Sect. IV. named after a Saint, whose head is pre- served here. It is surmounted by a beautiful Gothic Church, built from de- signs of Zwirner (the restorer of the Dom of Cologne), by Baron Fiirsten- berg of Stammheim ; it is lighted, ex- cept in the choir, by circular windows, and decorated internally with frescoes. These, as some of the latest and most lauded of the works of the German fresco-painters, are well worth the tra- veller's attention, and especially of all English artists. The subjects and artists are as follows : — Entering by the "W. door : on the 1. are scenes from the life of Christ, by Deger. In the N. transept, St. Apollinaris destroying, through prayer, the statue of Jupiter in the presence of the Roman Empr., by A. Mutter. Figures of Saints, by Ittenbach. The Crucifixion, and, be- neath, the Passion of Christ, by Deger. Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and Tem- perance, by Ittenbach. Martyrdom of St. Apollinaris, by A. Mutter. In the choir : on the 1. the Resurrection of Christ, by Deger. Noli me tangere, and Delivery of the Keys to Peter, by Ittenbach. On the arch of the apse, the Adoration of the Lamb, and the Sacra- ments, by C. Mutter. In the apse, Christ among the Saints of the old and new Covenant, by Deger. On the rt. of the choir, the Coronation of the Virgin, by C. Mutter. In the S. transept, the episcopal ordination of St. Apollinaris, by A. Mutter. SS. Theo- dore, Sophia, Francis of Assisi, and V. Paula, patrons of the founder and his family, by Ittenbach. Annunciation, Marriage, and Visitation of the Virgin (close to the window), by C. Mutter. Faith, Love, Hope, and Humility, by Ittenbach. St. Apollinaris raises the daughter of the Governor of Ravenna, by A. Mutter. On the rt. on entering by the "W. door, Scenes from the Le- gends of the Virgin, by Ittenbach. There is a very good distant view of the 7 mountains from the Apollinarisberg. At the foot of the hill lies 1. 2| Remagen (Inns : Konig von Preussen ; Preussischer Hof, the best between Andernach and Bonn), the Rigomagus of the Romans, a town of 1400 inhab- it has nothing to in- terest the traveller, except the Ro- manesque Gateway, part of the Palace of the Frankish kings, now leading to the Pfarrhof, close to the church, on which are sculptured the signs of the zodiac, executed probably at the end of the 11th cent, (these signs are seen on the portals of the Lombard churches in Italy) : it may be seen while the horses are changing. During the construc- tion of the high road many Roman antiquities were dug up here. A most interesting excursion may be made hence by the Ahr valley (Rte. 39). Landing here from the steamer, hire a carriage with post-horses at the post, sleep at Altenahr, and return next morning with the same horses. The cost is about 7| thalers for carriage and 3 horses, including driver, with an extra charge for horse-keep of 1 thaler at Altenahr. rt. A little beyond Remagen, on the opposite bank, rise the basaltic preci- pices, 700 ft. high, called Erpeler lei. The ingenuity of man has converted these barren rocks, which are almost inaccessible, into a productive vine- yard. The vines are planted in baskets filled with mould, and inserted in cre- vices of the basalt. By this means alone can the earth be preserved from being washed away by every shower. rt. The blackened walls of the ruined castle of Ockenfels. And a little further on is rt. Linz (Inns : ISTassauer Hof; Rheinischer Hof, on the bank of the river), an ancient fortified town, partly surrounded by walls of basalt ; it has 2200 inhab. An Archbp. of Cologne, in 1365, built the tower, still standing, near the Rhine gate, to enforce the pay- ment of tolls on the river, and to defend the place from the Burghers of Ander- nach, who were engaged in almost per- petual feuds with him and the towns- people of Linz. The Pfarrkirche, on the height behind, commands a fine view ; it contains some curious monu- ments of the noble families of the neighbourhood, and 2 ancient pictures, each of 7 compartments, probably of the school of Cologne, bearing the date 1463 ; unfortunately almost destroyed. A cross 40 ft. high has been placed on Bhen. Prussia, route 37. — the rhine (c). sinzig. broiil. 265 the top of the Hummelsberg, a hill he- hind Linz, as a memorial of the Battle of Leipzig. 1. The river Ahr issues into the Rhine opposite Linz. As its mouth is passed, the black conical summit of the Landskrone is seen up the Ahr valley. 1. 1J Sinzig (Inns: Stern; Krone), about 1| m. from the Rhine, but tra- versed by the high road, was the Sentia- cum of the Romans. The Parish Church is an interesting building, of the time of the transition from the round to the pointed style, dating probably from the beginning of the 1 3th cent. The deco- ration of the "W. front, and of the ends of the transepts, resemble, on a smaller scale, those of the ch. at Neuss. The transition style is seen in the polygonal form of the choir, with a gable over each side. The interior resembles the ch. at Andernach, in having both pointed and circular arches, and over each aisle a gallery, called here the Mcmnhaus. According to an obscure tradition, near this spot the Cross appeared in the sky to Constantine, on his march to attack Maxentius. There is a rude painting representing this event in the church ; and in an adjoining chapel a natural mummy, called the Holy Vogt, carried to Paris by the French. rt. The gable-fronted chateau of Ar- genfels or Ahrenfels, the Stammhaus, or cradle of the family von der Ley en, is seen in the distance behind the an- cient village of Honningen. 1. The village of Niederbreisig, and, further from the river, Oberbreisig, with a curious ch. of the 14th cent. 1. The Castle of Bheineck, consisting of an ancient watch-tower and a mo- dern castellated residence adjoining, built, at a lavish expense, by Lassaulx, for Profr. Bethman-Hollweg, of Bonn. The architectural taste displayed in this edifice is very questionable ; but it contains some modern pictures, and in its chapel are frescoes of the Beatitudes by Steinle. It is shown to strangers when the owner is absent. Its garden commands a fine view. 1. Brohl, a small village (Nonn's Inn, tolerable), at the mouth of the stream and valley of the Brohl. It possesses a paper-mill, in which is a [n. g.] collection of Dutch pictures, and several others moved by the streams of the Brohl-Bach for grinding tuff-stone into trass (Dutch tiras — i. e. cement) ; and there are very singular cave-like quar- ries of tuff-stone about a mile up the stream. From the resemblance of this rock to the tufa formed at the present day by Etna, Vesuvius, and other ac- tive volcanoes, geologists conjecture that the tufa of Brohl has been formed either by a torrent of volcanic mud discharged from some extinct crater into the valley, or by showers of pu- mice and ashes, thrown up by one of the volcanoes of the Eifel, falling into a lake, mixing with the mud at the bottom of it, and now consolidated into a soft stone. This, when quarried and ground into powder, is called trass, and from its possessing the valuable pro- perty of hardening under water is in great request as a cement. Large quantities are exported from this to distant countries, especially into Hol- land, where it is employed in the con- struction of the dykes ; it resembles the puzzolana of Naples, and the imi- tation of it, Roman cement. The an- cients made use of this kind of stone for coffins; and from its property of absorbing the moisture of the dead body, gave them the name of sarcophagi, i. e. flesh consumers. Votive tablets, bearing Roman inscriptions, have ac- tually been discovered in the quarries, proving at how early a period they were worked. Trunks of trees reduced to the condition of charcoal, and even land-rshells of various species, are em- bedded in the substance of the rock. The mineral spring called Tonnis- stein lies 4§ m. up the valley. (See R. 40, p. 296). [The pleasant excursion to the Lake of Laach, described in Rte. 40, may be made from Brohl. The travelling car- riage should be sent on to Andernach, and there rejoined. This excursion may be made in one long day.] rt. On the summit of a bold, black, precipitous rock, opposite to an island in the river, stand the broken walls of Hammerstein castle, built in the 10th cent., the refuge in 1105 of the Emperor Henry IV., when persecuted N 266 ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). ANDERNACH. Sect. IV. by his son. It was besieged by the Swedes in the 30 years' war, and de- stroyed by the Archbp. of Cologne in 1660. The small old church within it is interesting. 1. Namedy has a pretty church. 2"f (1.) Andernach {Inn : Zur Lilie, The Lily, good), — one of the oldest cities on the Rhine, 3000 inhab. It was called by the Romans Antonacum, and originated in one of Drusus' camps pitched on the spot. Most of the pre- sent fortifications date from 1577-83. The picturesque telescope Watch-tower, at the lower end of the town, by the water-side, round below, and eight- sided above (date 1520), and the Crane, a little lower down the stream, built 1554, add to its air of picturesque an- tiquity. There are 2 articles of traffic pe- culiar to this spot : millstones obtained from very singular quarries near JNieder- Mendig, and exported to England, Russia, the East and "West Indies, and to other remote parts of the world. They were used by the Romans, and have been found among Roman ruins in England, and are spoken of as Rhe- nish millstones by Latin authors. The stone is a species of basaltic lava which separates into columns, and is used as door-posts, window-sills, and side-posts at the corners of the streets, &c. (Rte. 40.) Another volcanic production is the trass, or cement, brought from the neighbouring quarries of Brohl and Kraft. A species of pumice called Oven-stone, because, from its resisting heat, it is used for lining ovens, is also obtained from 14 quarries at Bell near Nieder-Mendig (p. 297). The Parish Ch. or Dom has 4 towers ; those at the W. end tall and much or- namented ; the greater part of it was built in the beginning of the 13th cent., but the choir, the tower on its N. side, and the lower part of that on its S. side, belong probably to a preceding church of the 10th, which so far es- caped the destruction of Andernach by Philip of Hohenstaufen about 1200. A bas-relief over the S. door, the carv- ings of the capitals which support it, and the ornaments on the W. facade, are interesting specimens of sculpture. The interior is supported upon 2 tiers of arches of nearly equal height ; behind the upper tier runs a spacious gallery, intended for the male part of the congregation, and called the man- nerchor, or mannshaus ; the women sate below. It contains some curious carv- ings, and a Roman tomb, erroneously said to be of Valentinian II. The pul- pit once belonged to the abbey ch. at Laach. The Franciscan ch. 1414-63, now a stable, has only 2 aisles. Beneath the Rathhaus is a Jevjs' Bath, of considerable antiquity (per- haps Roman). It has not been used since the Jews were expelled from the town, 1596 ; they have never since been allowed to settle here. The Coblenz Gate is an elegant Go- thic portal, not a Roman work, as is commonly reported. Adjoining it, on the rt. of the road, are the extensive ruins of the castellated Palace of the Archbishops of Cologne, built about the end of the 15th cent. The Palace of the Austrasian kings stood either on this spot or close to the river, near an old gateway, which is possibly of Ro- man origin. A short distance off, on the rt of the road, are the noble ruins of the Abbey of St. Thomas, a convent for ladies of rank, which was burnt in 1795. It is now turned into a very extensive tannery, and partly into an asylum for incurable lunatics. The architecture of St. Michael's chapel, attached to it, is interesting : it was built in 1129. The excursion to the lake and abbey of Laach (Rte. 40) may be made in a carriage from hence, as a tolerable road leads thither through Wassenach (6 m.) At Andernach the mountains on both sides of the Rhine again approach the river, and form a majestic defile. rt. At the water's edge stands the ruined castle of Friedriclisstein, or the Teufelshaus, i. e. Devil's House; so called probably by the peasants, or serfs, who were compelled to build it by forced labour. It was begun in the 17th cent, by a prince of Neuwied, but never finished. rt. Just above the village of Irrlich the small river "Wied issues out into Ehen. Prussia, route 37. — neuwied. weissenthurm. 267 the Rhine. A long avenue, partly of tall poplars, joins Irrlich with, the town of rt. Neuwicd (Iyins : Rheinischer Hof ; Anker ; Wilder Mann, 2nd class ; Caesar's Hotel, good), a neat and uni- form town of straight streets, cross- ing each other at right angles (5200 inhab.), the capital of the principal- ity of Wied, now mediatized, and attached to Prussia. It was founded only as far hack as 1737 by a prince who invited colonists of all persua- sions, from all parts, to come and settle, with a promise of perfect tolera- tion. The wisdom of such liberality has been proved by the flourishing con- dition of the industrious manufacturing town which has sprung up in conse- quence, and by the harmony in which Jews, Catholics, Protestants, and Herrn- huters live all together. The Palace (Residenz Schloss) of the prince, overlooking the Rhine, pos- sesses a collection of Eoman antiquities, discovered in this neighbourhood, and principally derived from the buried city of Victoria, near the village of Niederbiber, 2 m. IS", of Neuwied. The objects brought to light comprise a bronze genius nearly 2 ft. high, ar- mour, helmets, weapons, a plough- share, locks and keys, tools of various trades, a sacrificial knife, pottery and coins in great abundance, tiles, hand-mills ; bones of deer, pigs, dogs, and a large quantity of oyster- shells ; proving that the garrison of a remote colony in the 3rd cent, sent all the way to the sea for the luxuries of the table. Many tiles have been found stamped with the names and numbers of the legions quartered here. No coins have come to light of a later date than the time of Valentinian the elder, who died A.d. 375, which fixes the date of the destruction of Victoria with an approach to precision. The remains of the city from which these curiosities were derived have long since been covered up, and crops of corn and grass again wave above its site. In the building called the Phea- santry (Fasanerie Gebaude) is the Mu- seum of Natural History, principally remarkable for the collections made by Prince Maximilian of Neuwied dur- ing his travels in Brazil and North America. The Colony of Moravian Brothers exceeds 400, who occupy a distinct quarter of Neuwied : their establish- ment, church, schools, and workshops are worth seeing. The park and gardens of the chateau of Monrepos, situated between the Wied and the Rhine, 6 m. N.N.E. from Neu- wied, form a pleasant excursion, and afford beautiful prospects. There is a flying bridge over the Rhine at Neuwied. From Andernach to Coblenz the banks of the Rhine are flat. (1.) Weissenthurm (White Tower), so called from the square watch-tower built by the electors of Treves to mark the frontier of their domain, is a small village (whose new church is decorated with modern frescoes), through which the road passes, a little above Neuwied, on the opposite bank. It is remark- able as the spot where the French crossed the Rhine in spite of the oppo- sition of the Austrians in 1797. On an eminence behind, to the rt. of the road, stands an Obelisk, erected to the memory of the French general Hoche, who achieved that memorable exploit by throwing a bridge across to the island in the middle of the river. The monument bears the simple inscription, " L'Armee de Sambre et Meuse a son General Hoche." Byron says of it, "This is all, and as it should be; Hoche was esteemed among the first of France's earlier generals, until Napoleon mono- polised her triumphs. He was the destined commander of the invading army of Ireland." Caesar, when lead- ing his army against the Sicambri, 17 centuries before, crossed the Rhine at the same spot, and has described the very curious bridge which he con- structed for the passage. (1.) Beyond Weissenthurm the road quits the side of the Rhine, and con- tinues out of sight of it till near to Coblenz. (rt.) Engers, a small village, with an old-fashioned Chateau, built 1758 by the Elector of Treves, facing the river ; n2 268 ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). MARCEAU. Sect. IV. a short way above this the remains of a Roman bridge, huilt B.C. 38, are dis- coverable in the bed of the river. (rt.) Miihlhofen, a village at the mouth of the river Sayn. [A good road strikes up the valley behind the village of Bendorf, and leads, in 3 m. from En- gers, and about 8 m, from Coblenz, to the village and modern Chateau of Sayn, belonging to the Count Boos, overlooked by the picturesque ruins of the old castle of Sayn, destroyed in the 30 years' war, above which rises the romantic Renneberg, Not far off are the Boyal Cannon Foundry and Iron Works (Sayner Hiitte), equal in extent to some of the most considerable iron- works in England : very pretty cast- iron ornaments, similar to the black ware of Berlin, are made here. At the village of Sayn is a suppressed Prae- monstrant abbey, founded 1202, with a church in the transition style, having a pointed arch, cupola, and a choir formed by 6 sides of an octagon, built 1400. At the upper extremity of the Valley is the castle of the Counts of Isenburg, whence they used to sally forth and plunder the merchants upon the Rhine. The whole valley is beau- tiful ; the stream of the Sayn gives it verdure ; its woody sides afford a cool shelter even in summer, and are inter- sected with walks, and provided with seats and summer-houses. It is a favourite excursion of the people of Coblenz. N. of the valley, about 1| m. N. of Sayn, and as far N.E. of Engers, on the slope of a hill, stands the noble abbey Rommersdorf. The church was consecrated in 1210 : the chapter- house and cloister were built between 1214-1236. The mouldings of the doors and arches, the quatrefoil opem- ings and pointed arches of the cloister, show the approach of the pointed style. The abbey has become the property of a private individual, and is well pre- served.] (rt.) The walls and buildings of the Castle of Mrenbreitstein (p. 271), on the top of its massive and commanding rock pedestal, are visible long before Coblenz appears behind the green slopes of the 1. bank. 1. Neuendorf: here the compara- tively small timber-rafts from the upper Rhine and its tributaries, and from the Moselle, are formed into the large rafts which descend to Holland (see p. 255). (1.) Near Kesselheim are remains of the chateau of Schonbornlust, originally a palace of the Elector of Treves, and only remarkable because it was the residence of the Bourbon princes and their supporters who were exiled from France during the first revolution. It became the head-quarters of the army of the refugees and their allies, and their plans of invading France were here concocted. The part of the build- ing now • standing serves as an inn. The plain between Andernach and Coblenz becomes every 3 years the scene of very extensive military re- views of the Prussian army ; 25,000 men are manoeuvred on these occasions, usually in August or September, for the space of one month. (1.) Near the junction of the Mo- selle and Rhine stands the " Monument of the young and lamented General Marceau, killed at the battle of Alten- kirchen, in attempting to check the retreat of Jourdan, on the last day of the 4th year of the French republic." (Sept. 21, 1796.) " By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, There is a small and simple pyramid, Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid, Our enemy's — but let not that forbid Honour to Marceau! o'er whose early tomb Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough sol- dier's lid, Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume. " Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career, — His mourners were two hosts, his friends and foes ; And fitly may the stranger lingering here Pray for his gallant spirit's bright repose ; For he was Freedom's champion, one of those, The few in number, who had not o'erstept The charter to chastise which she bestows On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er him wept." Byron. Byron adds : " The inscriptions on his monument are rather too long, and not required : his name was enough. France adored, and her enemies ad- Ehen. Prussia, route 37. — the rhine (c). coblenz. 269 mired ; both wept over him. His funeral was attended by the generals and detachments from both armies." It was in allusion to the last circum- stance that the words of the Imperial captain, in whose arms Bayard breathed his last under nearly similar circum- stances, were inscribed on the monu- ment: " Je voudrais qu'il ni'eut coute le quart de mon sang, et vous tinse en sante, mon prisonnier ! quoique je sais que l'Empercur mon maitre n'eut en scs guerres plus rude ni facheux ennemi." — Me'moires de Bayard. On another side of the monument were inscribed the words, " Qui que tu sois, ami ou ennemi, de ce jeune heros respecte les cendres." This injunction has not been exactly complied with. The monument ori- ginally stood where the fort Empr. Francis now stands, but was pulled down in 1817 to make room for it. Hoche was buried in the grave with Marceau, though his monument is at Weissenthurm. Whether the bodies were removed or not is not clearly as- certained ; but some time after the tomb was rebuilt at the command of the late King of Prussia, in a field to the rt. of the road from Cologne to Coblenz. 1. After passing under the works of the Fort Empr. Francis, which the French commenced and called Fort Marceau, ;the road crosses the Moselle by a handsome stone bridge a short distance above its confluence with the Rhine, and enters Coblenz. The breaking up of the frost is some- times attended with danger to the town of Coblenz. In the spring of 1830 the ice on the Moselle came down while the Rhine was still frozen over ; and being- forced on by the current, while there was no outlet for its discharge, was raised into vast heaps near the junction of the river, so as to overtop the stone bridge across the Moselle, and the quays along its banks. Indeed, but for these quays, then recently built, it is pro- bable some of the houses in the lower town would have been injured, as the icebergs were piled up against them to a height of 10 ft., and the boats moored in front of them were crushed by the weight. The water of the Moselle rose so high as to break over the tongue of land on its 1. bank, threatening de- struction to the village of Neuendorf, whose inhabitants took to flight ; and it even floated up the Rhine on the top of the ice as far as Boppart / The fields between the 2 rivers were covered with ice, and all communication by the road cut off. The vast Palace of the Electors of Treves (now the King's) (p. 270), ex- tending along the bank of the Rhine, is conspicuous as the steamer reaches her moorings off 2± 1. Coblenz. — Inns : the 3 follow- ing face the Rhine; the Giant (Riese), nearest to the landing - place of the steamers, is good and moderate, but complaints are made of the beds. — C. Charges : table-d'hote, with wine, 24 S. gr. ; tea 10 S. gr. ; breakfast 12 S. gr, ; beds 15 S. gr. to 21 S. gr. H. Bellevue, and, next door to it, the Trois Suisses ; Trierischer Hof (Poste), in the great Square. Those who do not mind crossing the bridge to Ehren- brcitstein will find the "White Horse (Zum "Weissem Ross — Cheval Blanc) one of the best managed hotels on the Rhine. The landlord is a ci-devant major in the Wtirtemberg army. Coblenz is a strongly fortified town, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, and rt. of the Moselle (Germ. Mosel). The Romans called it Confluentes, mo- dernised into Coblenz, from its situa- tion at the confluence of these 2 rivers. It is the capital of the Rhenish provinces of Prussia, and its population, includ- ing that of Ehrenbreitstein and 4000 men in garrison, is 26,000. The extensive fortifications, which occupied nearly 20 years to complete, connect the works on the 1. bank of the Rhine with the citadel of Ehren- breitstein on the rt. bank, and render Coblenz the bulwark of Germany and Prussia on the side of France. These vast ■ defences form a fortified camp, capable of containing 100,000 men, and are unique in their way, combining the 2 systems of fortification of Carnot and Montalcmbert. The works round the town, external and detached, are the Fort Kaiser Franz below it, on the 1. bank of the 270 ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). COBLENZ. Sect. IV. of Bavaria, who installed him in front of this church Vicar of the Empire, in order that he might secure the succour of the Crown-vassals on the 1. hank of the Rhine, to aid him in his designs against France. In the square in front of this church stands a Monument, erected hy the French in 1812. It is a, Fountain, hear- ing an inscription to commemorate the Invasion of Russia hy the French, affixed to it hy the French Prefet of the Departement, at the time of Na- poleon's expedition. This inscription had not stood many months before the Russians, pursuing the army of Na- poleon, arrived here on their way to Paris. Their commander, St. Priest, instead of erasing the obnoxious words, contented himself with the following sarcastic addition, which remains to the present time : " Vu et approuve par nous, Commandant Russe de la Yille de Coblence, Janvier l er , 1814." The Liebfrauenkirche is very curious, with early pointed arches and scalloped windows in the style of Cologne. It was originally built in 1259 ; the choir 1404-1431; the vaulting about 1500; the upper parts of the towers after the siege of 1688. The Protestant Church contains fine painted glass, very early, in the style of that in the Jerusalem Chamber at Westminster, brought from Nassau. The person who keeps the keys lives in one of the oldest houses in Europe, close to the Ch.— F. S. The Moselle Bridge (b. 1344) com- mands a pleasing view up and down the river, and along the picturesque old buildings which line the quay. Below it, on the rt., rise the ancient Town Hall, and the original Castle of the Electors of Treves, built 1280, now a manufactory of Japan ware. One of the first buildings on the 1. hand, after passing through the archway from the bridge, is the " Stammhaus" (family house) of Prince Metternich, the late Austrian Prime Minister, who was born in it. There are many other seats of the ancient nobility of the empire, as that of the Princes von der Leyen, Counts Bassenheim, Elz, &c. The Hos- pital is under the exemplary manage- ment of the " Scem-s de la Charite." Moselle, which commands the approach from Cologne and Treves ; the forts Alexander and Constantino, above the town, on the site of the convent of the Chartreuse, command the roads to May-< ence and that oyer the Hundsriick mountains ; and lastly, the many- mouthed batteries of Ehrenbreitstein, with some important works on neigh- bouring heights, sweep the stream of the Rhine and the road to Nassau. The presence of the military and civil government, and of an extensive garrison ; the situation of the town in the centre of the great highway up and down the Rhine, nearly equi-distant from Cologne and Mayence, at the point of junction of the roads to Frank- furt and by Treves to Paris ; its vici- nity to the fashionable watering-place Ems ; and the number of persons daily arriving and departing by coaches, car- riages, and steamboats, render Coblenz a lively and bustling place, especially in summer. The objects worth notice in the Old Town are — The Ch. of St. Castor, at the very confluence of the 2 rivers, distinguished by its 4 towers, and remarkable for its very great antiquity, having been " built chiefly at the expense, and con- secrated in the presence, of Louis the Pious (in 836), and is the earliest in- stance of the appearance' of the Lom- bard style in the Rhenish provinces." — G. K. It was the place where the grandsons of Charlemagne met (843) to divide his "vast empire into Germany, France, and Italy. The oldest parts are the interior of the choir, and the lower walls of the western towers. In the 11th cent, it suffered from fire; the exterior of the choir dates from 1157 and 1201 ; the nave and transept from 1208; the vaulting from 1498. In 1830 the church was restored under the direction of Lassaulx. On the 1. of the chancel stands the beautiful tomb of Cuno of Falkenstein, Archbp. of Treves (d. 1388) ; it is of the 14th cent., and is ornamented with a painting of the Crucifixion, attributed to the old German master, William of Cologne. In 1338 King Edward III. repaired to Coblenz to meet the Emp. Lewis Rhen. Prussia, route 37. — the rhine (c). ehrenbreitstein. 271 The principal building in the New 2hwn is the Palace of the King, who has caused it to he fitted up for his summer residence. Its long and hand- some facade extends along the Rhine, above the Bridge of Boats ; its prin- cipal front is turned towards the Great Square, near which the parade is held between 12 and 1 o'clock, when the band plays. It was built by the last Elector of Treves, Clement Wences- laus, Prince of Poland, Duke of Saxony, and uncle of Louis XVI., 1778-1788. The building was degraded by the French into barracks. It contains nothing worth notice. The Service of the Church of England is performed in the beautiful Palace Chapel by an English clergyman twice every Sunday. On the top of the palace stands a telegraph, the first of a line which communicates a message to Ber- lin in about half an hour. The new Palace of Justice contains the Law Courts, which are open to the public. Justice is administered by judges in gowns, but without wigs, and by trial by jury. The assizes are held every 3 months. The Casino, or town club, is of chaste architecture ; it has an elegant ball- room, good reading-rooms, and gardens. Close at hand is an ancient Convent of Jesuits, now the grammar-school. The Cellars beneath it well deserve to be visited from their vast extent ; they are so lofty and wide that a stage-coach loaded might easily drive round them. They belong to Messrs. Deinhard and Jordan, bankers and wine-merchants here, and contain about 300 vats of Rhine and Moselle wines, each equal to 7 ohms, or all together to about 400,000 bottles. A very agreeable sparkling wine is made from the grapes of the Rhine and Moselle; and the vines which grow under the very guns of Ehren- breitstein furnish, under skilful ma- nagement, a highly flavoured wine, which is no bad substitute for Cham- pagne. Coblenz is a free port, and carries on an active commerce up and down the 3 rivers, Rhine, Moselle, and Lahn, supplying the country around with colonial produce. From its vicinity to the wine districts it forms the na- tural staple place of the Rhine and Moselle wines, going down the river to Great Britain, Holland, and other parts of the world. About a million jars of Seltzers and other mineral waters from the duchy of Nassau are shipped annually from hence. Corn and the excellent iron of the neigh- bourhood are exported up the Moselle into France. The volcanic produc- tions of this country form very peculiar articles of trade ; such are the lava itself, in the shape of millstones, and the ashes, or pumice-stone, ground to form Dutch tiras : these, as well as potter's clay from the Moselle, bark from the forests of the Eifel and Huns- driick, and stoneware from the Sauer- land, a mountainous and poor district of Westphalia, N. of the Duchy of Nassau, are much in request in Hol- land. Neuendorf, a little below Coblenz, is the rendezvous for the great timber- rafts. No town on the Rhine surpasses Coblenz in the beauty of its situation : from whatever side you approach, by land or water, it presents a beautiful picture. The views from the centre of the bridge of boats, from the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, of Pfaffendorf, o» of the Chartreuse, are all fine. The most interesting object in the vicinity, on account of its towering and majestic appearance, for the glorioxis view of the junction of the Rhine and Moselle, and of the course of the Rhine from Stolzenfels down to Anclernach, which it commands, and for the vast extent of its fortifications, is the rock and fortress of (rt.) Ehrenbreitstein (honour's broad stone), the Gibraltar of the Rhine, connected with Coblenz by a bridge of boats. An order to sec it must be ob- tained from the commandant in Coblenz (Regierungsgebaude), which a valet- de-place will easily procure on present- ing the passport. This fortress, originally a Roman Castrum, was, during the middle ages, the refuge and stronghold of the Elec- tors of Treves, who, in later times, 272 ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). EHRENBREITSTEIN. Sect. IV. occupied the Palace (now a flour -ware- house) at the foot of the rock, hefore the erection of their more princely re- sidence on the opposite side of the Rhine. It was in vain hesieged by the French in 1688, under Marshal Bouf- flers, notwitstanding the celebrated Vauban directed the works against it, and although Louis XIV. repaired hither in order to be the eye-witness of •its surrender. But it fell into their hands in 1799, after a siege, in which the garrison was reduced to such ex- tremities from want of food, that a cat sold for 1\ florin, and horse-flesh rose to 30 kreutzers per pound. It was blown up by the French when they evacuated it after the peace of Lune- ville. " Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter'd wall Black with the miner's blast upon her height, Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball Rebounding idly on her strength did light A tower of victory ! from whence the llight Of baffled foes was watch'd along the plain ; But Peace destroy'd what War could never blight, And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer's rain — On which the iron shower for years had pour'd in vain." — Byron. It is now no longer a ruin. Since 1814 the Prussians have spared no pains or cost in restoring it, and add- ing new works, which have been only recently brought to a conclusion, and it is considered to be stronger than ever. Prussia devoted to the re-con- struction of this fortress her share of the contribution which France was compelled to pay the Allies after the war : but more than 4 times that sum has probably been expended on it by the Prussian government. The entire cost of the works on both sides of the Rhine at Coblenz is estimated to have exceeded 5 millions of dollars ; and al- though they may be converted into a fortified camp holding 100,000 men, yet a garrison of 5000 is enough to defend them. The magazines are ca- pable of containing provisions for 8000 men for 10 years. Ehrenbreitstein is defended by about 400 pieces of cannon. The escarped rocks, or steep slopes, on 3 sides, would bid defiance to almost buj assault : its weak point is on the N.\V~. Here, however, art has done its utmost to repair a natural defect, and 3 lines of defences present themselves, one within another, which would require to be taken in succession before the enemy could enter in this direction. The great platform on the top of the rock, serving as a parade, covers vast arched cisterns, capable of holding a supply of water for 3 years, furnished by springs without the walls. There is, besides, a well, sunk 400 ft. deep in the rock, communicating with the Shine : the Rhine water, however, is very un- wholesome from the quantity of vege- table matter decomposed in it. Those who reach Coblenz too late to get an order to see Ehrenbreitstein may content themselves with the view from the Pfaffendorfer Hohe (a hill on the same side of the Rhine), which is nearly as fine. (1.) Hill of the Chartreuse. — The view from Ehrenbreitstein is, perhaps, even surpassed by that from the heights of the Karthauserberg, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, about J m. above Coblenz. It receives its names from an old con- vent, now removed to make way for Forts Alexander and Constantine. It is nearly as high as Ehrenbreitstein, and that stupendous rock and citadel form the grandest feature of the view from this point : while, by approaching the verge of the hill, on one side the Rhine is seen, with the fortified heights of Pfaffendorf beyond it, and on the other side the Moselle flows at the gazer's feet. There are so many interesting spots near Coblenz, to which Excursions may be made, that it deserves to be chosen as a halting-place for some days, (a.) To the Castle of Stolzenfels, 3 m. up, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, on the road to Mayence, p. 274 ; vehicles (einspanner, with one horse) may be found near the Mainzer Thor to take you there and back for one thaler — with 2 horses 1 th. 10 S. gr. : (6.) to the top of the Kuhkopf, the highest hill near Coblenz : (c.) to Lahnstein, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, p. 275 : (d.) to Sayn, and the Abbey of Rommersdorf, p. 268. Tours liken. Prussia, route 37. the khine (c). coblenz. 273 of a day may be made to the Abbey and Lake of Laach (Rte. 40) ; to the Castle of Elz (Etc. 41) ; to Neuxried, below Engcrs, p. 267 ; to the Castle of Marks- burg, p. 275 ; which may be thus ar- ranged : — Hire a carriage to Nieder- spay, opposite Braubach (2 dollars), stopping to see Stolzcnfels and Kbnigs- stuhl. Cross the ferry at Niederspay, ascend to the Marksburg (2 hours re- quired to see it). Descend the Rhine in a boat, which costs 20 S. gr., to Me- derlahnstein and Coblenz. To Ems and Nassau (Rte. 95). A pleasant excursion of 2 days may be made to the Baths of Bertrich, re- turning by the Moselle, and in this short space the traveller may enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery that river presents. (See Rte. 42.) The numerous forests around abound in game — roes, stags, wild boar, and even wolves. The preserves of the Duke of Nassau and Prince of Wied are richly stocked, and they are known to be liberal in admitting foreigners to their shooting parties, so that Coblenz is good sporting quarters in autumn and winter. Hints for making the Tour of the Rhine, above Coblenz. — The direct road to the Brunnen of Nassau (Rte. 95) strikes away from the Rhine at Cob- lenz ; but as a great part of it is unin- teresting, and as some of the finest scenery of the Rhine lies between Cob- lenz and Bingen, those who wish to explore its beauties will find it far pre- ferable to adhere to the post-road run- ning along the 1. bank as far as Bingen, and there, crossing the river into the Rheingau, turn off to Wiesbaden. In this case it is advisable to make an Excursion from Coblenz to Ems, and the Castle of Nassau, 6 m. beyond it. (See Rte. 95.) A carriage may be hired for 4-^ dollars to Ems. Those who have a week to spare may make from Coblenz the tour of the beautiful Moselle to Treves (Rte. 41), returning by the river in the steamer (Rte. 42). They who cannot spare time to go all the way to Treves will find it worth their while to devote l£ or 2 days to an excursion to Miin- ster-Maifeld, the castle of Elz, and the village of Alf, situated on the Moselle, at a spot where its scenery is most beautiful, and to the Baths of Bertrich. (Rte. 42.) A good summer's day's excursion may be made by hiring a carriage from Coblenz to go by the Treves post-road through Metternich to Lonnig, where are the remains of a fine old Roman- esque church, with semicircular apsis, colonnade, &c, then to Miinster-Mai- feld, p. 309, and so on to the hill above Elz, where leave the carriage to go to Gondorf, and cross the Moselle to Mederfell by the ferry and refresh. Meanwhile the traveller can see Elz, walk to Moselkern or to Hatzenport, there take boat and fall down the river to Gondorf or Cobern; after seeing which he can from either recross the river to his carriage at or near Meder- fell, and back to Coblenz by the rt. bank, by a new, but bad, carnage -road, p. 321. A long day and an early start are desirable, as it will be too late to return to Coblenz by the down boat, and the road is not to be recommended in the dark, The young peasant girls in the coun- try around Coblenz wear before mar- riage a very elegant cap richly em- broidered, with a silver-gilt arrow or stiletto stuck through their hair. ¥xr st-rate physicians are Dr.Ulrich, Dr. Soest, and Dr. Baermann, who under- stand English. (For Fees see § 41.) The pharmacy of Mr. Mohr is excellent. Baedeker, a very intelligent book- seller in the Rhein Strasse, 452, leading from the bridge, at the corner of the square, keeps a good assortment of English, French, and German books, guide-books, prints, maps, &c, and is the publisher of one of the best Tra- vellers' Manuals of Conversation. He has also translated and printed a Ger- man edition of the Handbooks, and is personally acquainted with all parts of his own country. Steamers several times a-day up to Mayence and down to Cologne ; up the Moselle daily to Treves, in 1^ day, returning in 10 hrs. (Rte. 41.) Schnellposts (§ 50) to Cologne twice a-day : daily to Mayence ; to Treves ; to Cassel, by Wetzlar and Giessen, in N 3 274 R. 38. — -THE RHINE (d). stolzenfels. Sect. IV. 26 hrs. ; and to Frankfort by Ems, Schwalbach, and Wiesbaden. Omnibus to Ems several times a-day. Droskies (cabs) are much cheaper than those hired at the hotels. ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). COBLENZ TO MAYENCE. The post-road along the 1. bank of the Rhine is 12 Pruss. m. = 56 Eng. m. Steamers (5 or 6 daily) upwards in 8 hrs. ; down in 5 hrs. Schnellpost daily in 9 hrs. to Mayence ; in 7£ hrs. to Kreuznach by Bingen. Immediately above Coblenz the mountains close in upon the Rhine, which flows through a contracted gorge extending as far as Bingen. The dark shadows of the mountains, the nume- rous feudal castles in ruins, and walled and turretecl towns, are the prominent features of its unrivalled scenery, the effect of which is heightened by his- torical associations and the charms of romance and chivalry. On quitting Coblenz we pass (1.) Forts Alexander and Constantine ; and on the rt. bank another fort, crowning the heights of Pfaffendorf, above a village of that name. They have been fortified with as much care and expense as the citadel itself. (rt.) Horchheim is the last Prussian village : it is opposite to the island Oberwerth, upon which stands the country-house of Count Pfaffenhofen, formerly a nunnery. (1.) Stolzenfels, a castle, finely placed on a jutting rock overlooking the Rhine and the little village of Kapellen, and nearly opposite the confluence of the Lahn, 3 m. above Coblenz. Its pic- turesque outline and commanding posi- tion seem to justify its name of the Proud Bock, and render it one of the most imposing feudal castles on the Rhine. It is one of the numerous for- tresses built by the Archbishops of Treves, and was a favourite residence of several of those princely Prelates. The Princess Isabella, sister of Henry III. of England, and bride of the Emp. Frederick II., was lodged here with a splendid retinue in 1235. It was de- stroyed by the French in 1688, and had been abandoned to decay, until it was presented by the town of Coblenz to the present King of Prussia, while Crown Prince, by whom it has been restored. Unfortunately the repairs have been executed in very bad taste, recalling to mind the carpenter's Gothic of Strawberry Hill. A fine carriage road has been formed, partly by bridg- ing a ravine up to the castle, and is carried thence in zigzags to the top of the neighbouring bill. Pretty planta- tions and walks have been laid out around it. One apartment (the Ritter- saal) is painted by Stilhe with frescoes, representing the knightly virtues and accomplishments of Courage, Fidelity, Justice, Perseverance, Love, and Music, by scenes from history. 1. Courage : the death of the blind King John of Bohemia at the battle of Crecy, 27th Aug. 1346, after having fastened his horse to those of two knights. 2. Fidelity : Herman von Siebeneichen saves the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa, by exposing himself to the Guelph assas- sins, having compelled the Emperor to fly. 3. Love : the Empr. Fred. II. receives his bride Isabella Plantagenet, sister of Henry III. 4. Music : Philip of Swabia and his wife Irene sailing down the Rhine, surrounded by the most famous minstrels of their day. 5. Justice : Rudolph of Habsburg re- establishes general peace. 6. Persever- ance : Godfrey of Bouillon hangs up his arms in the Church of the Holy Sepul- chre. On the window side are St. Gereon, St. George, St. Maurice, and St. Reinhold. In another room is an ar- moury, where are preserved the swords of Tilly, Bliicher, Napoleon, Murat, &c. The castle is often resorted to by the Coblenzers on account of its fine view. An hotel has been built at the foot of the rock, and donkeys swarm to convey the strangers up it. Not long ago Stolzenfels was offered for sale at 70 dollars (11/.) without finding a pur- chaser. The King of Prussia received Queen Victoria here in 1845. Both banks of the Lahn and the rt. bank of the Rhine, nearly all the way hence to Mayence, belong to Nassau. (rt.) Below the mouth of the Lahn stands the Church of St. John, built Rlien. Prussia. R. 38. — rhine (d). rhense. braubach. 275 about 1100, but reduced to a ruin through a lawsuit about the liability of the titheowner to repair it, which lasted 40 years. The choir is square outside, but curved within: the sa- cristy has elliptical vaulting : a tower is raised very boldly upon columns : the great tower is the oldest. Beyond it is the village of Nieder-Lahnstein, on the rt. bank of the Lahn. Here the Russians, under St. Priest, crossed the Rhine in 1814. Douquet's Inn, at Lahnstein, is a good dining place, and its small court-yard commands fine views. There is a ferry over the Rhine from Stolzenfels to Lahnstein, and an- other over the Lahn at its mouth, and a good carriage -road leads up its rt. bank to Ems. It is proposed to render the Lahn navigable up to Weilburg, a difficult scheme, but of vast importance to Nassau, by opening an outlet for the produce of its mines, and for that of the agriculture of Wetteravia and Upper Hesse. (rt.) Above the mouth of the Lahn, on the top of a rock, are the ruins of the Castle of Lahneck, which gave rise to Gothe's verses " Geister Gruss." Oberlahnstein, an old unaltered walled town, whose most conspicuous edifice is the red Castle of the Electors of Mayence, on the margin of the Rhine. Just without its walls a little white chapel is visible among the trees; it is memorable as the spot where the Electors met to pronounce the depo- sition of the weak and indolent Em- peror Wenceslaus, and to elect Rupert emperor in his stead (1400). (1.) Rhense (Inn, Zum Konigs- stuhl), one of the least altered towns on the Rhine ; its timber houses, few of which are newer than the 16th cent., and some even of the 14th cent., retain entirely the mediaeval ' German aspect. The road passes through it. A little below it is the Konigsstuhl (King's Seat), where the Electors used to meet to deliberate on affairs of the Empire. It is an open vaulted hall with 7 arches and 9 pillars, 1 being in the middle, and with 7 stone seats round the side for the 7 Electors. Here many treaties of peace were concluded, emperors dethroned and elected, and here the Emperor Maximilian appeared in person to take the oaths. It was allowed to go to ruin under the French government, and was pulled down 1807, but has been rebuilt in its original shape, and partly out of the old ma- terials (1843). This situation was selected from its vicinity to the ter- ritories of the 4 Rhenish Electors. The town of Rhense belonged to the Elector of Cologne, Lahnstein to Mainz, Capellen and Stolzenfels to Treves, and Braubach to the Palatinate. Thus each could repair to this spot, or retire from it into his own dominions, in a few minutes' time. (rt.) Braubach, a small town, with a Chateau, at the water-side (now turned into an Inn, zur Phillipsburg), stands at the foot of a high and almost conical rock, surmounted by the imposing Castle of Marksburg, an unaltered speci- men of a stronghold of the middle ages, and on this account deserving of a visit. It is sometimes used as a prison, and is garrisoned by a corps of invalids. It is indeed the beau-ideal of the old Ritter- schloss, with mysterious narrow pas- sages, winding stairs, vaults hewn in the living rock, which served in former days as dungeons ; among them the horrible pit called Hundloch (Doghole), into which prisoners were let down, as a bucket into a well, by a windlass ; and above all, a chamber of torture (Folter- kammer), whence the rack has been only lately removed. Here is shown the cell in which the Emp. Henry IV. was confined. A secret passage is said to pass down through the rock to a tower on the borders of the river. The view from the top of the Donjon keep (called Wimpcl) will please the lover of the picturesque. Braubach is about 7 m. from Ems. A tolerable road connects the two places (Rte. 95) . Just out of the town, at the roadside, is a delicious spring of mineral water, re- sembling that of Selters. In order to visit Marksburg from the 1. bank of the Rhine cross the river at Nierderspay, where there is a ferry to Braubach. (1.) Three small villages close toge- ther, called Mittelspay, Peterspay, and Oberspay, The Rhine here makes a 276 route 38. — the rhine (d). boppart. Sect. IV. very great bend, and does not recover its former direction till Boppart is passed, (rt.) 2 m. above Braubach, nearly- opposite Oberspay, is a mineral spring called Dinkholder Brunnen. (rt.) Above the little village of Os- terspay rises the Castle of Liebeneck, with white walls. (1.) Boppart* {Inns: Post; Bhein- ischer Hof, new ; Spiegel), a very an- cient walled town, with 3500 inhab. and dark narrow streets, no better than lanes. It was the Boman Baudobriga, and, like many other places upon the Rhine, it owed its origin to a castle built by Drusus, and the walls of this Castrum, an oblong square of Boman masonry, still exist in the heart of the town : the outer walls date from the middle ages. Boppart was made an Imperial city, and many Diets of the Empire were held in it. The Haupt- kirche, built about 1200, and distin- guished by its twin pointed spires united by a gallery like a bridge, "is remarkable for the various shapes of the arches in its front sides and semi-octa- gonal apsis ; some of the latter being pointed, but evidently of the same age with the round-headed : small gallery under the roof of the apsis : inside gal- leries [over the aisles, mannerchore] with small round-headed arches, sup- ported on twin columns, and enclosed in larger ones : wall-plates with arches, some round, some pointed, some in slips : a rosette in the pediment." — Hope. A remarkable door on the 1. of the apse, at the E. end, surmounted by 3 concentric arches of peculiar arrange- ment, is well worth the architect's notice. — F. 8. The Carmeliterkirche contains a curious monument of the family von Elz, — rich specimens of sculpture of the 16th cent., but mu- tilated. Within the picturesque streets, the antiquary, architect, and artist will find much to interest them. The Bayerhaus present some peculiarities of architecture. It was the house of the family of Bayer von Boppart, the ally of Budolph of Habsburg in the destruction of the robber-nests on the Bhine. The Tempelhof preserves the recollection of the Knights Templars of * 3 Germ. m. Boppart, relay. Boppart, who first mounted the breach at the storming of Ptolemais in the 3rd Crusade. The large Convent of Marienburg, built 1738, behind Boppart, once a cotton-mill, afterwards a girls' school, is now converted into a medical board- ing-house for the Water-cure. The Muhlbad near the river is another es- tablishment of the same sort. Before reaching Salzig (1.), famed for its cherry orchards, the mountains recede somewhat from the banks of the river, and give place to corn-fields and meadows. (rt.) A little higher up than the vil- lage of Kamp, immediately above the ancient Convent of Bornhofen (where is a 2-aisled ch. exhibiting some bold construction) , and opposite Salzig, rise the mouldering towers of the t'xin castles of Sternberg and Liebensteia, crowning the double summit of a lofty rock, covered with vines. They go by the name of the Brothers, and are inte- resting from their pictures queness and the tale of their owners, two brothers, who, having fallen in love with the same fair maid, became foes, settled their rivalry by the sword, and fell by each other's hands. The castles belonged to the Electors of Treves. (rt.) Ehrenthal, where are silver, lead, and copper works, producing 100,000 florins annually : a little above this is Wehnich, a small village at the foot of a mountain, surmounted by the ruined castle of Thumberg or Kunoberg, built by Kuno v. Falkenstein, the Archbp. of Treves (1363), called " the Mouse," in contrast to " the Cat," another castle above St. Goarshausen. The Mouse, however was generally the stronger of the two, so that the Cat trembled be- fore it. It is one of the most perfect castles on the Bhine; the wood- work alone is wanting ; the walls are entire. Fine view. (1.) Close above the town of St. Goar rises the vast Fortress of Bheinfels, the most extensive ruin on the Bhine. The original castle was built by a Count Diether of Katzenelnbogen (1245), as a stronghold where he could reside, and also exact toll, or, as we should say at present, levy transit duties, upon all Rheu. Prussia, route 38. — the rhine (d). st. goar. 277 merchandize passing up or down the Rhine. An attempt, however, on his part to increase these duties roused the indignation of his neighbours, and his castle was besieged in vain for 15 months by the burghers of the adjacent towns. This unsuccessful attempt was productive of more important conse- quences ; it was one of the circum- stances which gave rise to the extensive confederacy of the German and Rhenish cities, to the number of 60, whose more numerous and formidable armies re- duced and dismantled not only the castle of Rheinfels, but also most of the other strongholds, or robber-nests, upon the Rhine. This event took place in the latter part of the 13th cent. The cas- tle afterwards came into the possession of the Landgrave of Hesse, who, at a very considerable expense, converted it into a modern fortress, with bastions and casemates. It was besieged in 1692 by an army of 24,000 French, under Mar- shal Tallard, who had promised the fortress as a new year's gift to his master, Louis XIV. ; but, through the brave defence of the Hessian general Gortz, was compelled to break his word and draw off his forces. His example was not followed in 1794, when, though its works had been greatly strengthened, it was basely abandoned by the Hessian garrison, without firing a shot, on the first appearance of the revolutionary French army, by whom it was blown up, and rendered useless. Below Rhein- fels lies the post-town of *(1.) St. Goar.— Inn, Zur Lilie (the Lily), good, but often over-crowded. St. Goar lies in the midst of the finest scenes of the Rhine ; it is, therefore, well placed for a day's halt. The views in its vicinity are among the most picturesque in the whole course of the river, and the rocks which hem it in are peculiarly wild and precipitous. The castle of Rheinfels, magnificent in appearance, and interesting from its history, rewards the trouble of the ascent by the view which it commands. Another very pleasing view is to be obtained from the summit of the heights above St. Goar, which rise immediately * I) Germ. m. St. Goar. in face of the Lurleiberg. The spot is approached by a footpath, leading out of the high road to Bingen, 100 yds. before you come to the Trumpeter's Grotto, by the side of the bed of a winter torrent ; the way is not difficult to find. Another agreeable expedition is to the Muhlenthal, between "Werlau and Karbach. The Protestant Ch., near the centre of the town, of pleasing architecture, stands over the crypt of the old Ch. of St. Goar (built 1465). In the Catholic Ch. of St. Goar is the rude image of that holy hermit, who in the 7th cent, settled here to preach Christianity to the rude inhabitants, and who after- wards gave his name to the town. It is recorded that once, to prove his sanc- tity, he hung up his cloak on a sunbeam, a miracle which was imitated by St. Elizabeth at Marburg, who hung out her washing to dry on a sunbeam. His shrine, after his death, in 647, became a place of pilgrimage, and is still famed for working miracles, and his help is supposed to have rescued many a poor boatman who prayed to him from the perils of the Gewirr (a whirlpool in this part of the river), and the enchant- ments of the Nymph of the Lurlei. (rt.) The Nassau bank of the Rhine hereabouts also affords pleasant excur- sions and points of view. Boats are always ready at St. Goar to transport visitors across the river to rt. Goarshaitsen (Inn, Adler — Aigle ; the steamers will set you down here). Here mules may be hired to explore the pretty Schweitzer Thai (Swiss Valley), traversed by a limpid stream descending in numberless small cascades between precipitous walls of rock, and turning many water-mills. At the en- trance of this valley, above the walled village of St. Goarshausen, rises the very picturesque Castle of the Cat (a contrac- tion of Katzenelnbogen, Cat's Elbow, the name of its original possessors). The view from it is not inferior to that from the 1. bank. Those who feel an ardour to climb still higher may reach the brow of the Lurlei, and gaze upon the Rhine from the brink of this lofty pre- cipice. Another agreeable excursion from 278 route 38. — the rhine (d). lurlei. oberwesel. Sect. IV. Goarshausen will occupy a morning. Ascend the Forstbach, or Schweitzer- thal, to the ruined Castle of Beichenberg, one of the most interesting in the vi- cinity of the Rhine, built 1284, ruined in 1302, but shortly after restored by Baldwin of Treves in an Asiastic style, traces of which may be observed in the gateway. It was destroyed by Tilly in the 30 years' war. Return by the village of Patersberg, whence by far the finest view of the Rheinfels is to be obtained. (rt.) A short way above St. Goar, but on the rt. bank, rises abruptly from the water's edge the bare, black, and perpendicular precipice called the Lur- lei. (1.) At the side of the high road, opposite this colossal cliff, is a grotto occupied by a man whose em- ployment it is to awaken by pistol or bugle, for the gratification of travellers, the remarkable Echo of the Lurlei, which is said to repeat sounds 15 times. The aspect of the Lurlei from this point is very grand. The German stu- dents amuse themselves by asking the echo, " Who is the Burgomaster of Oberwesel?" Answer — " Esel " (the German for Ass) : a joke of which the burgomaster highly disapproves. There is a fishery of salmon in this part of the river. At the bend of the Rhine between St. Goar and the Lurlei rock is the whirlpool (Wirbel) called the Gewirr, and above it a rapid called the Bank, formed by the stream dashing over a number of sunken rocks, increased by the sudden bend which the river here makes. The passage of the large rafts which navigate the Rhine over this spot is difficult and dangerous ; the forepart is often dragged 5 or 6 feet under the surface, the crews plunged up to their necks in water, and men have been washed overboard by the tumultuous waves dashing over the slippery plank. The perils of tbis spot, taken in con- nection with the mysterious echo, no doubt gave birth to the superstition that the Lurlei was haunted by a beauteous but wicked nymph or Syren, who dis- tracted and beguiled the passing boat- man with her magical voice only to overwhelm and drown him in the waves of the whii-pool. Above this, in the middle of the river, and visible when the water is low, are the rocks called the 7 Sisters (see next page). 1. Oberwesel. — Inns: Rheinischer Hof ; — Trierischer Hof ; — Goldener Pfropfenzieher (Golden Corkscrew — the sign painted by one of the Diis- seldorf artists, Schrodter). Oberwesel (the Vesalia of the Romans), a small town of 2300 inhab., one of the most charming spots on the Rhine, is highly picturesque from its lofty round tower (Ochsenthurrri) at the water- side, its many-turreted walls, and Gothic build- ings. Among the latter is the Ch. of our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche) , outside the town at its upper end, one of the most highly decorated as well as taste- ful examples of Gothic architecture upon the Rhine. It was consecrated in 1331. Its porches are richly sculptured, and the vaulting of the cloisters is sin- gular. The rood-loft (Lettner) is a rich specimen of Gothic. The choir is 80 ft. high. The altar-piece of carved wood, richly gilt, consisting of a series of niches, filled with the figures of prophets, patriarchs, and saints, is of the same age as the church, and is the perfection of elegance and delicacy. In a side chapel are many monuments of the Schomberg family, bearing rudely- carved effigies of knights in armour, ladies in stomachers and ruffs, and babies in swaddling clothes, like mum- mies or the larvae of insects. The older Ch. of St. Martin, with a large square tower and octagonal lan- tern, is also interesting from its ar- chitecture. In it is a Deposition from the Cross by Biepenbeck. In some period of the dark ages a boy named Werner is said to have been most impiously crucified and put to death by the Jews in this place. A similar story is told in many other parts of the world ; even in England, at Gloucester and Lincoln (vide Chau- cer). It is probable that the whole was a fabrication, to serve as a pretext for persecuting the Jews and extorting money from them. A little Chapel, erected to the memoiy of this Werner, stands upon the walls of the town, close to the Rhine. (1.) Schonberg. This ruined castle Bhen. Prussia. it. 38. — the rhine (d). gutenfels. pfalz. 279 on the rock was the cradle of an illus- trious family of the same name. The English Schombergs are a branch of it, and the hero of the Boyne, Marshal Schomberg, sprang from the same stock. It receives its name (Beautiful Hill), as the story goes, from 7 beau- teous daughters of the house, who by their charms turned the heads of half the young knights far and near ; but were, at the same time, so hard-hearted that they would listen to the suits of none of them, and were therefore changed into 7 rocks, which are seen even to this day projecting out of the bed of the Rhine below Oberwesel, when the water is low. (rt.) Gutenfels, a ruined castle above the town of Caub, traditionally (?) said to be named after a fair lady called Guda, who was beloved of Richard of Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, and bro- ther of our Henry III. In the 30 years' war Gustavus Adolphus directed an attack upon the Spaniards, posted on the opposite bank, from its battle- ments, but, after 6 days of unceasing hostilities, was unable to effect a pas- sage in the face of the wary General Spinola. The castle remained in habi- table condition down to 1807, when, owing to the expense of keeping it up, the roofs and wood- work were sold by auction, and the building converted into a ruin. (rt.) Caub (Jnns ; Nassauer Hof ; Griinewald) has slate-quarries under- ground, and is principally remarkable as the spot where Blucher's army crossed the Rhine on New Year's Night, 1814. It was from the heights above that the view of the Rhine first burst upon the Prussians, and drew forth one simul- taneous and exulting cry of triumph. " To the Germans of every age this great river has been the object of an affection and reverence scarcely inferior to that with which an Egyptian con- templates the Nile, or the Indian his Ganges. When these brave bands, having achieved the rescue of their native soil, came in sight of this its ancient landmark, the burden of a hundred songs, they knelt and shouted The Shine ! the Rhine I as with the heart and voice of one man. They that were behind rushed on, hearing the cry, in expectation of another battle." — /. G.L. A toll is here paid, by all vessels na- vigating the Rhine, to the Duke of Nassau, the only chieftain remaining on the river who stiR exercises this feudal previlege. In the middle ages no less than 32 different tolls were es- tablished on the Rhine. In the middle of the river, opposite Caub, rises the quaint castle called the Pfalz, built by the Empr. Lewis the Bavarian, previous to 1326, as a convenient toU-house ; it now belongs to the Duke of Nassau. To this little island Louis le Debonnaire retired to die, worn out with the cares of empire, 840, " desiring that a thatched lodge or leafy hut, such as had served him while hunt- ing in the forest, should be prepared." Here, " lying on his couch, lulled by the soothing music of the gurgling waters," he breathed his last.* — 8. Ac- cording to a popular tradition the Pfalz served in former times as a place of refuge and security whither the Countesses Palatine repaired previous to their accouchements, which, were it true, would be a proof of the insecure life led by princes as well as peasants in the turbulent times of the middle ages. Such an occurence may have actuaUy taken place in a single instance, but it is very unlikely that a rude toU- house should repeatedly have served as a princely abode. There are dungeons under it below the level of the river, in which state-prisoners of rank were once confined. The castle is accessible by means of a ladder, and the only entrance is closed by a portcullis (FaUthur). The weU which supplies it with water is filled from a source far deeper than the bed of the Rhine. f(l.) Bacharach {Inn, Post) is en- circled by antique waUs, and defended by 12 towers, of strength in former days, of picturesque and ornamental appear- ance in the present. They are singular in their construction, having only 3 walls, the side towards the town being * See Palgrave's eloquent History of Nor- mandy, 1851 — a work abounding with interest- ing local anecdotes collected by the author on his travels. f If Germ. m. Eaeharach. 280 ROUTE 38. — THE RHINE (d). bacharach. lorch. Sect. IV open, probably to prevent their com- manding the town in the event of an enemy gaining possession of them. The name, Bacharach, is only a slight al- teration of the words Bacchi ara, the altar of Bacchus ; a name conferred upon a rock in the bed of the river, ad- joining the island a little below the town, usually covered with water, but in very dry seasons appearing above the surface. The sight of it is hailed with joy by the owner of the vineyard, who regards this as a sure sign of a fine vintage. As a proof of the goodness of the wine of this neighbourhood, we are told that Pope Pius II. (JEneas Silvius) used to import a tun of it to Rome every year ; and that the city of Nuremberg obtained its freedom in return for 4 casks of it, which her citizens presented annually to the Empr. "Wenzel. Down to the 16th cent. Bacharach was, jointly with Co- logne, the staple place for the wines of the Rhine. (1.) The trimcated walls of the old castle of Stahleck, till 1253 the seat of the Electors Palatine, now the pro- perty of the Queen of Prussia, their de- scendant, crown the high hill behind Bacharach. Between them and the town stand the ruins of St. Werner's Ch., ah exquisite fragment of the florid Gothic style, built of hard red sand- stone in 1428. "It was demolished by the Swedes in the Thirty Years' War, but still shows in its E. end a lantern, rising on a rock suspended over the river, lake a fairy fabric, the remains of the highest and most elegant lancet style existing." — Hope. The lofty pointed windows still retain in a per- fect condition the most delicate tracery work. The body of the child Werner, having been thrown by the Jews, bis mur- derers, into the Rhine at Oberwesel (see p. 278), instead of descending with the current, as all other bodies would have done, is reported to have ascended the stream as far as Bacharach, where it was taken up, interred, and afterwards ca- nonized. To do honour to his relics, this beautiful chapel was built over them. An hour or two should be devoted by every traveller to Bacharach, to enable him to enjoy the view from the castle of Stahleck, and to visit St. "Werner's chapel, and St. Peter's Ch., just below St. "Werner's, and close to the road. It was " formerly a Templar ch., and one of the most curious, and perhaps the earliest example of mixed Bound and Gothic style on the Bhine, resembling the churches of Lim- burg and Neuss. It deserves to be drawn in detail before it goes to utter ruin."— .P. S. (rt.) Lorchhausen. Two stone gal- lows near this formerly marked the boundary line which divided the an- cient territory of Mainz from the Pa- latinate. A little higher up the river is the ruined castle of Nollingen. (1.) The round Keep-tower and shattered walls of Fiirstenburg rise above the village of Rheindiebaeh. The castle was reduced to a ruin by the French in the war of the Orleans suc- cession, 1689. (rt.) Lorch (Inn, Schwan) is one of the oldest towns on the Rhine (Lau- reacum ?), and is situated at the mouth of the picuresque valley of the Wis- per, on the rt. bank of which rises the rocky height called the Devil's Ladder, whose top is occupied by the ruins of the castle of Nollingen. It was an- ciently inhabited by a knot of noble (knightly) families, many of whose castellated mansions remain. Among them is the Hurghaus of John Hilgen of Lorch, a contemporary of Franz of Sickengen, who fought against the Turks, date (1548). He is buried in the Ch., a handsome edifice of the 12th Cent, (with more recent addi- tions), containing an elaborate altar- piece of carved wood. Before the ch. stands a carved stone cross (date 1491). Here commences the district called the Rhcingau (district of the Rhine), which extends upwards along the rt. bank as far as "Walluf, and is remark- able as including all the most famous vineyards in which the best Rhenish wines are produced. 1. The ruins of the castle of Heim- burg appear above the top of the hoiiscs of Nieder-Heimbach village, close on the shore. Higher up is the very pie- Ehen. Prussia, route 38. — the rhine (d). castles. 281 turesque turreted ruin, of Sonneck; it was originally a robber-castle, and de- stroyed as such by the Emperor Ru- dolph, 1282. It is now restored. The river, on approaching Bingen and Assmanshausen, is truly " the cas- tellated Rhine." 1. The castle of Reichenstein or Falkenburg stands on the summit of a rocky spur of the hill, and a little farther up on the same bank is that of Rheinstein, on a pro- jecting crag which rises almost perpen- dicularly from the bank of the river. Not far beyond Falkenburg, and be- tween the high road and the river, is the interesting Gothic Ch. of St. Clement, admirably restored from a state of ruin by the Prince Frederick of Prussia. Most of these residences of knightly highwaymen fell before the strong arm of the law in 1282, having been con- demned as robber strongholds. The forces of the League of the Rhine exe- cuted the sentence of the Diet of the Empire by storming and demolishing them, and thus put an end to the arbitrary exactions and predatory war- fare of their owners. The system of pillage which pre- vailed throughout Germany among the rulers of these almost inaccessible for- tresses, until the vigorous opposition of the towns on the borders of the Rhine put an end to it, is well illustrated by the following anecdote. An archbishop of Cologne, having built a castle, ap- pointed a seneschal to the command of it. The governor, previous to entering upon his office, applied to the bishop to know how and whence he was to maintain himself, no revenue having been assigned to him for that purpose. The prelate, by way of answer, merely desired him to observe that his castle stood close to the junction of 4 roads. A practice very similar to the arbitrary mode of levying tolls and custom duties adopted by these feudal tyrants pre- vailed up to the last century in our own country, in the black-mail exacted by the Highland chiefs and nobles from merchants on their way to and from the fairs or markets of the north. 1. The Castle of Rheinstein, one of these ruins, has been restored as far as possible to its original condition, but only to serve the peaceful purpose of a summer residence for Prince Frederick of Prussia, cousin to the present King. The interior has been fitted up in imi- tation of a knightly dwelling of the days of chivalry ; the walls hung with armour, the windows filled with painted glass, and the furniture either collected from ancient castles or convents, or made conformably to the fashions of former days. It is liberally shown to strangers, who are conducted round the castle by a domestic, who bears the ancient title of Schlossvogt. At the narrow pass below Rheinstein, which even now, after having been widened by French and Prussian engineers, leaves barely room for the road between the rock and the river, there existed till very recent times a Jew's Toll, where certain fixed dues were levied upon all the Hebrews who passed. It is said that the contractors kept little dogs, who were trained to single out and seize the Jews from among the passing crowds ! Wines and Vineyards of the Rhine. Opposite to Rheinstein is the village (rt.) of Assmannshausen {Inn, Hotel de l'Ancre), which has a warm mineral spring, and. is about to be added to the number of the Brunnen of Nassau by the construction of baths and ho- tels : it gives its name to a red wine of high reputation and price. The hills behind and around the hamlet which produce it are so very steep that it is only by artificial means, often by plant- ing the vines in baskets, that any soil can be retained around their roots. The vineyards are nothing more than a succession of terraces or steps, extend- ing from the top to the bottom of the hills, some of which must be nearly 1000 ft. high. In some places more than 20 terraces may be counted, rising one above the other. They are sup- ported by walls of masonry from 5 to 10 ft. high, and the breadth of some of the ledges on which the vines grow is not more than twice the height of the walls. To reach many of these narrow plots, the vine -dressers, female as well as male, must scale the precipices, and hang as it were from the face of the 282 ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). RHINE WINES. Sect. IV. rocks, while a great deal of the soil itself and every particle of manure must he carried up on their shoulders. This will give some idea of the labours and expense of such cultivation, and of the great value of every inch of ground in these narrow strips to re- pay it. The life of the Rheinland vine- dresser indeed presents a rare example of industry and perseverance. Though by no means rich, they are generally the proprietors of the vineyards which they cultivate ; and though their ap- pearance does not altogether verify that which painters draw and poets describe, they at least exhibit an aspect of cheer- fulness and intelligence. Independently of the hardness of the labour of cultivating the vine, which is not confined to any one season, but must be carried on perseveringly through the whole year, and is most severe during the heat of summer, the vine is a delicate plant, — frost, rain, or hail may in a few hours annihilate the produce upon which the cultivator de- pends solely for subsistence. One or two successive seasons of failure will ruin even an opulent family ; but when the vintage is good, few of the small proprietors are rich enough to be able to wait until they can obtain a favour- able market, but must part with the wine soon after it is made to the rich speculators, who buy up the whole pro- duce of a district, and take the chance of its turning out good or bad. Beyond the point on which Ass- manshausen stands, the Rhine, whose course has hitherto been from S.E. to N.W., changes materially its di- rection, and flows from E. to "W., pursuing this direction from Mayence hither. From the advantageous exposure produced by this bend in the river arises the excellence of the wines of the district of the Bheingau, as the rays of the midday sun, instead of being received obliquely, fall full butt upon the vineyards situated on the rt. bank of the river, and all the best wines are confined to that side. The slaty soil of the hills seems peculiarly fa- vourable for retaining the intense heat of the sun's rays, so necessary for bring- ing the grape to perfect maturity ; and, in addition, this favoured portion of the valley of the Rhine is sheltered from JS\ and E. winds to a great ex- tent by the intervening barrier of mountains. The Rheingau is divided into the Upper and Lower Cantons (Gemar- kung), relatively to the position of the vineyards near the summits of the hills, or on the margin of the river : the high grounds produce the strongest wine, while that of the lower ground has an earthy taste ; that which grows at a moderate height between the two extremes is considered the most whole- some and the best ; though much de- pends on the season, which is some- times favourable to the produce of the heights, sometimes to that of the in- ferior slopes. Among the Rhine wines (improperly called Hock in England), the Johan- nisberg and Steinberg rank first, and on an equal footing, for their exquisite flavour and evanescent bouquet. Next follow Riidesheim (Berg), Markobrun- ner, and Rotherberg, which possess much body and aroma. Hochheim (which grows on the banks of the Maine, not in the Rheingau) ranks with the best of these second-class wines. Of the inferior wines, those of Erbach and Hattenheim are the best. The lighter wines, however, are apt to be hard and rather acid, as table wines. The Laubenheim and Nierstein, from the Palatinate above Mayence, and the delicately-flavoured Moselles, are much preferred to them as table wines in Germany. The best red Rhine wine is the Assmannshausen, produced from vines originally brought from Bur- gundy. The vine chiefly cultivated on the Rhine is called Riesling ; it yields a wine of fine flavour ; the Or- leans grape produces a strong-bodied wine. The vintage on the Rhine used to take place in the middle of October ; but, by the present system, it is de- layed, in the best vineyards, till No- vember : in fact, it is put off to the last moment the grapes "will hang on the bunches. To make the best wines, JRhen. Prussia. R. 38. — the rhlne (d). bingen loch. 283 the grapes are sorted, and those only of the best quality employed. The riper hunches are first selected, and the rest left to hang for days or weeks longer. The culture of the vine was intro- duced on the Rhine and Moselle by the Emperor Probus. The Rossel (rt.), a little tower stand- ing on the brink of the heights above Assmannshausen, and just discernible from the river below, is situated within the verge of the Forest of Niederwald, and commands one of the most magni- ficent views upon the whole course of the Rhine. Assmannshausen is a good point from which to commence the as- cent of the Niederwald, though Bingen or Riidesheim, where the inns are bet- ter, should be made the head-quarters. We have now reached the upper limit of the gorge of the Rhine, com- mencing near Boppart, and affording so much grand scenery. Between Bin- gen and Boppart the Rhine cuts across a chain of mountains running nearly at right angles to the course of its stream. There are good grounds for supposing that at one time (before hu- man record) this range entirely stopped its further progress, damming up the waters behind them into a lake which extended as far as Basle, and whose existence is further proved by numerous freshwater deposits, shells, &c, to be found in the valley of the Rhine, above Mayence. Some vast convulsions, such as an earthquake, or perhaps even the force of the accumulated waters alone, must have burst through this moun- tain-wall, and made for the river the gorge or ravine by which it now obtains a free passage to the ocean. A species of dyke or wall of rock, running obliquely across the river at this spot, is perhaps a remnant of this colossal barrier. It is passable for ves- sels only at one spot, where a channel called Bingen Loch (Hole of Bingen) has been cut through it by artificial means. The impediments occasioned by it in the navigation of the river have been reduced from time to time : but the greatest improvement was effected in 1830-32, by the Prussian govern- ment, under whose direction the passage has been widened from 20 to 210 ft. by blasting the sunken rocks in the bed of the Rhine. 1. In commemoration of this im- provement, a small monument has been set up by the road-side ; the pedestal of the obelisk is formed of the stones extracted from the bed of the river. rt. This navigable channel, 3 ft. deep, lies near the rt. bank, under the shattered walls of the castle of Ehren- fels, an ancient stronghold of the Arch- bishops of Mayence, built in 1210, to which they retired with their treasures in time of war and peril. It was stormed by Bernard of Saxe Weimar in the 30 years' war, but was destroyed by the French, 1689. Sometimes when the river is low in autumn, a strong team of horses stands ready on the rt. bank to assist in drag- ging the steamer up the rapid by the aid of a tow-rope. Near to the 1. bank, surrounded by the river, and not far from the spot where the waters of the Nahe unite with those of the Rhine, rises the little square Mouse Tower, renowned for The Tradition of Bishop Hatto. The summer and autumn had been so wet, That in winter the corn was growing yet ; 'T was a piteous sight to see all around The grain lie rotting on the ground. Every day the starving poor Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door, For he had a plentiful last year's store ; And all the neighbourhood could tell His granaries were furnish'd well. At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day To quiet the poor without delay : He iiade them to his great barn repair, And they should have food for the winter there. Rejoic'd at such tidings good to hear, The poor folk flock'd from far and near ; The great barn was full as it could hold Of women and children, and young and old. Then when he saw it could hold no more, Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ; And while for mercy on Christ they call, He set fire to the barn, and burnt them all. " I' faith 'tis an excellent bonfire !" quoth he, " Andtlie country is greatly oblig'd to me, For ridding it, in these times forlorn, Of rats that only consume the corn." 284 ROUrE 38. THE RHIN T E (d). BINGES. Sect. IV. So then to his palace returned lie, And he sat down to supper merrily, And he slept that night like an innocent man ; But Bishop Hatto never slept again. In the morning, as he enter'd the hall Where his picture hung against the wall, A sweat like death all o'er him came, For the rats had eaten it out of the frame. As he look'd there came a man from his farm ; He had a countenance white with alarm. " My Lord, I open'd your granaries this morn, And the rats had eaten all your corn." Another came running presently, And he was pale as pale could be : " Fly ! my lord bishop, fly," quoth he ; " Ten thousand rats are coming this way ; The Lord forgive you for yesterday 1" " I'll go to my tower on the Rhine," replied he, " 'Tis the safest place in Germany ; The walls are high, and the shores are steep, And the stream is strong, and the water deep !" Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten'd away, And he cross'd the Rhine without delay, And reach 'd his tower, and barr'd with care All the windows, doors, and loopholes there. He laid him down, and clos'd his eyes ; But soon a scream made him arise. He started, and saw two eyes of flame On frs pillow, from whence the screaming came. He listen'd and look'd : it was only the cat : But the bishop he grew more fearful for that ; For she sat screaming, mad with fear At the army of rats that were drawing near. For they have swum over the river so deep, And they have climb'dthe shores so steep, And now by thousands up they crawl To the holes and windows in the wall. Down on his knees the bishop fell, And faster and faster his beads did he tell, As louder and louder, drawing near, The saw of their teeth without he could hear. And in at the windows, and in at the door, And through the walls by thousands they pour, And down through the ceiling and up through the floor, From the right and the left, from behind and before, From within and without, from above and below ; And all at once to the bishop they go. They have whetted their teeth against the stones, And now they pick the bishop's bones ; They gnaw'd the flesh from every limb, For they were sent to do judgment on him. Southey. Having given the romantic tradition, it is proper to add the prosaic history of the little tower. It appears to have been built in the 13th cent, by a Bishop Siegfried (full 200 years after the death of Bishop Hatto), along with the oppo- site castle of Ehrenfels, as a wateh- tower and toll-house for collecting the duties upon all goods which passed the spot. The word rnaus is probably only an older form of mauth, duty or toll : and this name, together with the very un- popular object for which the tower was erected, perhaps gave rise to the do- lorous story of Bishop Hatto and the rats. The tale, too, may have been fixed on Bp. Hatto (originally Abbot of Fulda), because, though one of the most distinguished statesmen of his time, and the constant friend and councillor of the Empr. Otho the Great, he must have been remembered for his cruel perfidy. (See Hdbk. S. Germany, Route 170.) He died 970. 1. The confluence of the Nahe and the Rhine. — Tacitus mentions the bridge of Drusus over the Nahe : the existing structure, erected 1011, and many times renewed, perhaps rests on Roman foundations. The JSTahe di- vides the territory of Prussia from that of Hesse-Darmstadt. The pedestrian may save at least a mile by crossing the Nahe by the ferry, instead of going- round by the bridge. 2. 1. Bingen. — Inns : Victoria, close to the Rhine, good and reasonable ; — Post, not so well situated, but good in other respects;— Weisses Ross (White Horse), facing the river; old Rhine- wine in the cellar. The very interest- ing scenery in this neighbourhood is entirely lost to those who merely pass up and down the river in a steamboat. Bingen has 5000 inhab., and con- siderable trade in wine. It was raised to great prosperity in the 14th cent, by certain Italian families of merchants, from Asti : the Ottini, Montesia, Brog- lio, Pomario, &c, who settled here. In the town itself there is not much to be seen. The ruin called Klopp, or Drusus' Castle, above it, though not itself Roman, probably occupies the site of one of the forts built by Drusus. The ruins, now enclosed within a pri- vate garden, command a very interest- ing view. From Bingen the traveller may ex- plore the Rochusberg, Rheinstein, and Rhen. Prussia, r. 38. — the rhine (d). niederwald. 285 the Niederwald, in one day. A very pleasant excursion may be made up the Naho to Kreuznach and Oberstein (Etc. 100). Eilvcagen and omnibus (12 S. gr.) to Kreuznach twice a day in 2 hrs. : a coach thither and back, with 2 horses, costs 7 fl. ; 5 fl. with 1. 1. The white Chapel of St. Roch (Rochus Capelle) occupies the summit of the hill above Bingen, opposite Riidesheim. The ascent to it takes half an hour — it may be made in a light carriage. There is a pleasant walk from Bingen, at first along the new road on 1. bank of Nahe, and through woods whose shade is highly refreshing to one ascending a stiff hill on a hot day, to the summit of a knoll called Scharlachkopf, which commands an interesting view of the valley and windings of the lovely Nahe ; the ho- rizon is bounded by the Hundsriick mountains and the Mont Tonnerre (Donnersberg), while immediately under the spectator lie the bridge and town of Bingen. The slopes at the back of the hill have nearly the same exposure as the vineyards of the Rheingau, and produce a wine, the Scharlachberger, not much inferior to them. The chapel of St. Roch is easily reached from the Kopf. The terrace behind the chapel almost overhangs the Rhine and com- mands a prospect not only up, but down the river. The 16th of August is St. Roch's day, when many thousand pil- grims assemble from all parts to pay their vows and offer their prayers to the saint, who is regarded as the averter of plague and pestilence. Gbthe has written a very pleasing description of one of these festivals. He presented to the chapel the altar-piece which deco- rates its interior. You may descend by a different road, overlooking the Rhine. l£ hour will suffice for this walk, which, instead of a single view, pre- sents a complete panorama of the sur- rounding country. The favourite excursion, however, from Bingen is to the heights above Riidesheim and Assmannshausen, called the Niederwald, which may be made in 3 or 4 hours, but which well deserves to have half a day devoted to it. The following plan of the excursion, having been already tried, may be considered worth adopting by others. Take a boat from Bingen, and de- scend the Rhine in 20 min. to the castle of Rheinstein (p. 281). If you go on foot you will save a mile by crossing the Nahe at the ferry under the church, instead of going round by the stone bridge. After seeing the castle, cross the Rhine to Assmanns- hausen. This wine-producing village supports a troop of donkeys for the express purpose of transporting visitors to the top of the heights of the Nieder- wald. The charge for a donkey to Riidesheim is 1 fl. 15 kr. Those who prefer walking may experience some difficulty in finding their way among the numerous paths through the woods without a guide. After ascending the gully behind the village for about a mile, as far up as the vine grows, a path will be found to the right, which leads to the Jagd- Schloss, hunting seat of the Count Bassenheim, the proprietor of the Niederwald, where refreshments may be had. This may be reached in f hr. from Assmanshausen ; 1 min. more will bring you to the Bezauberte Hohle (magic cave). Whithin the space of a few feet, three vistas, cut through the trees, disclose three beautiful land- scapes of the Rhine, each different from the other, and having all the effect of a diorama. At no great distance from the cave is the Rossel, an artificial ruin, perched on the very verge of the precipice, which at a great height overlooks the black pools and turbulent eddies of the Bingerloch. The ruin of Ehrenfels appears half way down, hanging as it were to the face of the rock. The view is not surpassed by any in the whole course of the Rhine. " One of the most remarkable features in it is the distinction in the stream of the river below of the waters of the Rhine in the centre (clear green), the Nahe, near the 1. bank (dirty brown), and the Maine, near the rt. bank (dirty red). The Maine joins the Rhine about 20 m. above Bingen, yet the three rivers do not mix, it is said, until they reach the deep pool of the Lurlei."— P. From 286 ROUTE 38. — RHINE (d). RUDESHEIM. Sect. IV. this point the path again dives into the wood, and at the end of about a mile emerges at rt. The Temple, a circular building supported on pillars, planted on the brow of the hill, which commands another and quite different prospect, extending up the Ehine and across to the hills of the Bergstrasse and Odenwald. The author of Pelham calls this " one of the noblest landscapes on earth." The agreeable shade of the beech and oak trees composing the forest of the Niederwald completely excludes the sun, and renders this excursion doubly pleasant in summer time. To descend to Rudesheim from the Temple will not take more than half an hour by the path leading through the vineyards which produce the fa- mous Rudesheim wine. Late in the autumn, when the grapes begin to ripen, the direct path is closed up, and a slight detour of an additional quarter of an hour must be made. ASCENT OF THE RHINE CONTINUED. rt. Rudesheim. Inns: Darmstadter Hof ; Krone ; Rheinstein. The excursion to the Niederwald, which is not more than a mile distant, may be made from hence quite as well as from Assmannshausen. The traveller will generally find donkeys or mules ready saddled to convey him. Paths strike off from the Temple rt. to the Jagd Schloss, and 1. to the Eossel. At the upper end of the town rises a picturesque round tower, and at the lower extremity, close to the water's edge, stands the Bromserburg, a singu- lar massive quadrangular castle of the year 1100, consisting of three vaulted stories, supported on walls varying be- tween 8 and 14 ft. in thickness. Though a ruin, it is carefully preserved from further decay, and several rooms have been neatly fitted up in it by its present owner, Count Ingelheim. The tall square tower adjoining it is called Boosenburg. Another castle, the Brom- serhof, near the middle of the town, was the family residence of the knightly race of Bromser, long since extinct. " Tradition says that one of these knights, Bromser of Rudesheim, on repairing to Palestine, signalised him- self by destroying a dragon, which was the terror of the Christian army. No sooner had he accomplished it than he was taken prisoner by the Saracens ; and while languishing in captivity he made a vow, that, if ever he returned to his castle of Rudesheim, he would de- vote his only daughter Gisela to the church. He arrived at length, a pil- grim, at his castle, and was met by his daughter, now grown into a lovely woman. Gisela loved, and was beloved by, a young knight from a neighbouring castle ; and she heard with consterna- tion her father's vow. Her tears and entreaties could not change his pur- pose. He threatened her with his curse if she did not obey : and, in the midst of a violent storm, she precipi- tated herself from the tower of the castle into the Rhine below. A fisher- man found her corpse the next day in the river by the tower of Hatto : and the boatmen and vintagers at this day fancy they sometimes see the pale form of Gisela hovering about the ruined tower, and hear her voice mingling its lamenta- tions with the moiunful whistlings of the wind." — Autumn near the Rhine. The Bromserhof is now turned into common dwelling-houses, and the anti- quities it contained are partly removed to Johannisberg. They consisted of old furniture, family pictures, &c, together with the chain which bound the knight Johann Bromser while a prisoner in Palestine. The best quality of the famed Rudes- heim Wine grows upon the terraces over- hanging the Rhine, close to Ehrenfels. There is a tradition that Charlemagne, remarking from his residence at Ingel- heim that the snow disappeared sooner from these heights than elsewhere, and perceiving how favourable such a situa- tion would prove for vineyards, ordered vines to be brought hither from Bur- gundy and Orleans. The grapes are stilled called Orleans. Close behind the houses of Riidesheim grows a very good wine, called, from the position of the vineyard, Hinterhauser. There is a ferry over the Rhine be- tween Kempten and Rudesheim. Car- riages may be hired here to proceed on Rhen. Prussia, r. 38. — rhine (d). geisenheim. johannisberg. 287 to Mainz or Wiesbaden, as well as job- horses. There are no post-horses be- tween Budesheim and Mayence on the rt. bank of the Rhine. Diligences daily from Eiidesheim to Wiesbaden. A Railway is projected. The shortest road, which is also the post-road, from Bingen to Mayence is by Ingelheim (Bte. 98), keeping on the 1. side of the Bhine. Those who wish to visit the Brunnen of Nassau on their way cross over by the ferry above Bin- gen to Eiidesheim and take the more interesting road along the rt. bank of the Bhine. They should stop at Eiides- heim to see the Niederwald (if they have not visited it before) ; at Johannis- berg to see the chateau and vineyard ; at Hattenheirn (where they may dine) to see the old convent of Eberbach, 2 m. out of the road : and they had better stipulate with the driver, before setting out, to make these halts. If they are bound to Schlangenbad (Bte. 95), they may turn to the 1., away from the Rhine, at Walluf ; if they are going to Wiesbaden they proceed on to Bieberich before they quit it ; and if they wish to reach Castel and Mayence they continue by its side. The distance from Eiides- heim to Castel (opposite Mayence) is about 14 m. There is a schnellpost daily to Wiesbaden, but no post-horses. Above the Niederwald and the Eo- chusberg the mountains subside into gentle slopes, and the taller ridges of Taunus recede to a distance from the river. Although the succeeding dis- trict appears tame in comparison with that already passed, when viewed from the river, yet, when seen from any of the heights which command the Bhein- gau, it will be found to possess beauties of a softer kind, combined with a rich- ness and cheerfulness which are well calculated to draw forth admiration. (rt.) Geisenheim (Inns : Schone Aus- sicht ; Stadt Frankfurt), a town of 2400 inhab., distinguished by the twin Gothic towers and spires of open work (b. 1 839) of its old Church — in which is a monu- ment to the Elector John Philip von Schonborn, 1675. There is another famous vineyard near this, upon the hill called the Eothenberg, which is much frequented on account of its fine view. The country seat of Baron Zwierlein contains a fine collection of stained glass from the commencement of the art to the present time. rt. The very conspicuous white man- sion on the heights, at some little dis- tance from the river, is the Chateau of Johannisberg, the property of Prince Metternich, standing in the midst of the vineyards which produce the most famous of the Bhine wines. The house, built 1716, though seldom in- habited, has been enlarged by its present owner. It is not remarkable, but the view from the balcony and terrace is very fine. In the Schlosskirche is a marble monument to P. Metternich' s tutor, Mc. Voght. It is difficult to obtain admit- tance to the cellars : they are very ex- tensive. The first owners of the vineyard of Johannisberg were the monks : it was originally attached to the abbey and convent of St. John, afterwards secu- larised. It is still known by the name of Bischofsberg. In the beginning of the present cent, it belonged to the Prince of Orange ; but before it had been in his possession 3 years Napo- leon made over the vineyard as a gift to Marshal KeUermann. At the close of the war it again changed hands, and in 1816 was presented by the Empr. of Austria to Prince Metternich, who holds it as an imperial fief. The ground around is too precious as a vineyard to be laid out in gardens : no trees are allowed, as they would deprive the vines of the sun's rays ; but on the N. side of the house there is a sort of wilderness planted with trees. The best wine grows close under the chateau, and indeed partly over the cellars. The species of vine cultivated here is the Biesling. The management of it at all seasons re- quires the most careful attention. The grapes are allowed to remain on the vines as long as they can hold together, and the vintage usually begins a fort- night later than anywhere else. The vine-grower is not satisfied with ripe- ness, the grape must verge to rotten- ness before it suits its purpose ; and al- though much is lost in quantity by this delay in gathering, it is considered that the wine gains thereby in strength and body. So precious are the grapes that those which fall are picked off the ground with a kind of fork made for the pur- 288 ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). ERBACH. Sect. IV pose. The extent of the vineyard is ahout 70 acres, and it is divided into small compartments, the produce of each of which is put into separate casks : even in the hest years there is considerahle difference in the value of different casks. Its produce amounts in good years to about 40 butts (called stucks), each of 7£ ohms, and has been valued at 80,000 fl. A cask of 1350 bottles has been valued as high as 2200 florins : the highest price ever paid was 18,000 fl. for 1350 bottles, or rather more than 11. 2s. a bottle. The purchasers were, in moieties, George TV. and the King of Prussia. The wine is deposited in the cellars of the chateau in cask, but al- ways delivered in bottle, with the prince's signet. In bad years the juice of the grape never goes into the cellars at all, but is forthwith sold off for what it may fetch. The Rhine here attains its greatest breadth, 2000 ft., spreading itself out to about double the width which it has below Rudesheirn ; at Cologne it is only 1300 ft. broad, and at Wesel only 1500 ft. In the middle of its channel are numerous small islands extending all the way up to Mayence. rt. Winkel (Vini Cella, so called be- cause Charlemagne's wine-cellar was situated here) and Oestrich, 2 unim- portant villages. At Mittelheim, near Winkel, is a curious church, date 1140, with a nave and 2 aisles all under one roof, and with a portal built of white and grey stone, in a mixed style of Moorish and middle-Italian. rt. Count Schonborn's chateau, Rei- chartshausen, a short distance below the village of Hattenheim (1000 inhab.), contains an interesting collection of paintings, chiefly modern. Among them are a capital work of our own Wilkie, called " Guess my name ;" a Holy Family, by Overbeck, in the cha- pel ; Telemachus and Eucharis, by David; the Dying Robbers, by L. Robert ; Italian Peasants, P. Hess ; Raphael and 'the Fornarina, Picot ; &c. rt. A little higher up the river, upon the hill of Strahlcnberg, grows the famous Markobrunner wine, so named from a small spring or fountain close to the high road, which here runs on the borders of the river. The nobles of the Rheingau, once so numerous, rich, and powerful, are greatly diminished in number and wealth. The chief of those ancient families still re- siding on its banks are the Counts Bas- senheim, Ingelheim, and Schonbom ; these, with Prince Metternich and the Duke of Nassau, possess the best vine- yards on the Rhine. (rt.) Erbach {Inn, Traube), a small village. An excursion may be made either from Hattenheim (2^ m.) or from Erbach to the Cistercian Convent of Eberbach, once the most considerable monastic establishment on the Rhine. It is prettily situated at the foot of the hills, in a sheltered nook, nearly sur- rounded by woods, which, sweeping- down the slopes, spread themselves like a mantle around it. It was founded by St. Bernard de Clairvaux in 1131. It is now the property of the Duke of Nassau, and is converted into a prison and asylum for maniacs, for which it is well calculated by its vast extent. These establishments are exceedingly well managed, but they are not readily shown to strangers. More accessible and in- teresting to those who take pleasure in architecture are the Churches, very piu-e specimens of the Romanesque style, de- rived doubtless from Cologne. The oldest of these, a small building, sup- ported by 2 rows of slender columns, is probably part of the first foundation of St. Bernard, erected 1131. It is now occupied by wine-presses, and some of the best Rhine wines are made in it. The larger Church, a spacious edifice, was built 1186 : it is of severe architec- ture. There are many curious monu- ments, especially of the Katzenelnbo- gen and von Stein (de Lapide) ; one of a knight, " amicus fidelis hujus monast," MCCC. ; also of Abbots and Archbishops of Mayence, Gerlach (1371), and Adolph II. von Nassau (1474). The long dor- mitory, in the pointed Gothic of the 14th cent, imposed on round work, and the Chapter-house of the 15th, also merit notice. The vaults under these buildings are used by the Duke of Nassau as cellai-s, to contain what he calls his Cabinet of Wines, comprising a collection of the choicest productions of the vineyards of the Rheingau. R. Prussia, r. 38. — the rhine (d). Steinberg, elfeld. 289 The celebrated Steinberg vineyard, once the property of the monks of Eber- bach, now of the Duke of Nassau, lies upon the slope of the hill, close to the convent. The wine produced from it is esteemed quite as much as Johannis- berg ; and the culture of it is managed with even greater care and cost than that vineyard. It consists of about 100 valuable acres, enclosed within a ring fence : the high wall is passed in going to Hattenheim or Erbach. In the spring of 1836 half of the finest wines in the Duke's cellars were sold by pub- lic auction. The cask which was con- sidered the best, the flower, or, as the Germans call it, the Bride (Braut) of the cellar, being cabinet Steinberger of 1822, was purchased for the enormous sum of 6100 fl. = about 500/., by Prince Emile of Hesse. It contained 3£ ohms, about 600 bottles ; and the price was therefore equivalent to 16s»4d a bottle. From the Moss-house on the Boss, a neighbouring height, a view is obtained which the author of the Bubbles calls " the finest he had witnessed in this country." 1. In the distance, on the top of the hill, nearly opposite, or on a line with Hattenheim, may be discerned Ingel- heim, the favourite residence of Char- lemagne, now a poor village. (Rte. 98.) Charlemagne used to resort to the low islands in the middle of the Rhine from Ingelheim to fish. His unfortu- nate son Lewis, pursued by his own im- pious sons, ended his days (840) on one of them, a fugitive. rt. The large building between Er- bach and Elfield is the Draiser Hof, once an appendage to the convent of Eber- bach. rt. Elfeld or EUville (Alta villa) — Inns: Hirsch (Stag); Engel— is the only town of the Rheingau. It has 2000 inhab., is conspicuous from its situation, and picturesque from its Gothic towers. The lofty vcatch-tower surmounted by 4 turrets, at the upper end of the town, is part of the castle built in the 14th cent. Here Gunther of Schwarzburg, beseiged by his rival Charles IV., resigned the crown, 1349, and died, probably of poison. Around [N.G.] the town are many handsome villas and country seats of the German noblesse. In that of Graf von Elz are some good pictures — a fine Domenichino, Susanna in the Bath. In the pretty valley be- hind Eltville lies the village of Kidrich, with a beautiful Gothic Chapel of St. Michael, built 1440, conspicuous for its turret open-work. In the Ch. is curi- ous woodwork and original galleries coeval with the building. The tower of Scharfenstein, once the residence of the bishops of Mayence, rises above Kidrich. The Grafenberg wine is pro- duced here. Schlangenbad is reached from this by a bridle-path through the woods, 6 m. long.. rt. Nieder-Walluff. At the end of the Walldaffthal, about 4 m.. N.W., lies Bauenthal, famous for its wine. rt. Schierstein is a village with more than 1300 inhab. The Picture Gallery of M. Habel contains many works by the old masters. Here ends the Bhein- gau, " the Bacchanalian Paradise," which, bounded by the Taunus hills on one side, and by the Rhine on the other, extends along the rt. bank of the river as far down as Lorch. It was given to the Archbishops of Mainz by a Carlo- vingian king, and was protected by a wall and ditch, some portion of which may still be seen near Biberich. A road turns off here to Schlangenbad, 8 m. (Rte. 95.) rt. About 4 m. behind Schierstein is the village of Frauenstein, with a ruined castle and an enormous lime- tree. rt. Biberich {Inns : H. Bellevue ; Rheinischer Hof) r the Chateau of the Duke of Nassau, of stucco, ornamented with red sandstone, with a circular building in the centre, is one of the handsomest palaces on the Rhine, though now somewhat dilapidated. The in- terior is remarkable only for the splen- dour and taste with which it is fitted up, and for the exquisite prospects up and down the Rhine. The gardens be- hind are of great extent and very pretty, and are liberally thrown open to the public. They are famous for their white andred chesnuts, and contain some fine ornamental timber. In the minia- ture castle of Mosbach, within their 290 ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). MAYENCE DOM. Sect. IV. circuit, on the bank of a small artificial lake, a number of Eoman antiquities are preserved. Biebrich stands on the limits of the Duchy of Nassau. Above this, the rt. as well as the 1. bank of the Rhine be- longs to Hesse-Darmstadt. The Bail- way from Wiesbaden to Frankfurt by Castel passes by Biberich, where there is a station. Passengers bound for Frank- furt or Wiesbaden may disembark here, and take the train to Wiesbaden in 10 min., and to Frankfurt in 1| hr., sav- ing thereby half an hour's detour and detention at Mayence, Tariff- for por- terage from steamer to railway station, and vice versa at Biberich : — For trunks and large and heavy parcels, 6 kreut- zers each; for small do., 3 kr. each, The train is drawn by horses along a short branch from Biberich to the main line. (Rte. 95.) The red towers of Mayence (1.) now appear in sight, surrounded by fortifica- tions, connected by a bridge of boats over the Rhine with rt. The fortified suburb of Castel (Bahrdt's Inn, large and good, close to the railway), which forms the tete de pont. 1. Mentz (Fr. Mayence ; Germ. Mainz). Inns: Rheinjscher Hof, best; Europaischer Hof ; Hessischer Hof, good and quiet ; Hollandischer Hof, good ; H. d' Angleterre, pretty good — all on the Quay close to the Rhine ; Drei Reichs-Kronen (Three Crowns) ; at Cas- tel, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, near the Railway Station, Bahrdt's Hotel. The landing-places of the steamers of the Upper and Lower Rhine are nearly a mile apart from each other. Porter- age is very exorbitant, Florins and kreutzers here come into use (Sect. VIII.) ; but Prussian dollars are also Current, Mayence, the Moguntiacum of the Ro- mans, belongs to the Grand Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt, and is the most con- siderable and important town in his dominions ; but, as the chief and strong- est fortress of the German Confedera- tion, it is garrisoned by Prussian and Austrian troops in nearly equal num- bers, and is commanded by a governor .elected alternately from either nation for a period of five years. It lies on the 1. bank of the Rhine, nearly opposite the junction of the Main. It has 36,600 inhab., and 8000 men garrison. Upon the Quai, where the steamer stops, are 3 large red buildings — the Kurfiirstliche Schloss, or ancient Palace of the Electors of Mayence, now con- verted into a Museum ; the Grossherzog- liche Schloss, originally Deutsches Haus (Teutonic House). It served as a resi- dence for Napoleon, and has now become the palace of the governor of the fortress, and the Arsenal, The most remarkable objects in Mainz are — the Cathedral, a vast building of red sandstone, blocked up on all sides but the E. by mean houses, less inter- esting for any beauty of architecture (as it is built in the massive round-arched style) than for its great antiquity, hav- ing been begun in the 10th and finished in the 1 1 th cent. ; but the date of the oldest parts now remaining, viz. the E. choir, transept, and nave, may be re- ferred to the period intervening between 978 and 1137. The building, however, has suffered so much at different times from conflagrations, from the Prussian bombardment of 1793, and afterwards (1813) from having been converted into a barrack and magazine by the French, that the only portion of the original structure remaining in a tolerably per- fect state is that behind the altar at the E. end (978—1009). The octagonal tower (Pfarrthurm) at the E. end has been surmounted with a cupola of cast- iron 70 ft. high, designed by Moller. This ch., as well as those of Worms, Treves, and Spire, has a double choir and high altars both at the E. and W. ends, and 2 transepts. The W. choir elates from 1200— 1239 : the side chapels on the N. side were added 1291, those on the S. 1332. The most beautiful of them, that of All Saints, containing a very fine window, was built 1317. The double chapel of St. Gothard, adjoining the N.W. transept, is a particularly in- teresting specimen of Gothic, on ac- count of the period at which it was built (1136). It is therefore to be re- gretted that, for the sake of a few paltry dollars' rent, it should be let as a leather warehouse. The interior of the cathe- Rhen. Prussia, route 38. — the rhine (d). mentz. 291 dral is filled with. Monuments of Episco- pal Electors of Mainz ; the greater num- ber, placed upright against the piers and walls, are interesting illustrations of the progress and decay of the temporal power of the German church. The Arch- bishops of Mainz had the right of plac- ing the crown on the head of the Ger- man Emperors, and are sometimes re- presented on their tombs in that act. That of Archbp. Peter von Asfeldt (1305 — 1320) bears, in addition to his own effigy rudely carved, those of the Em- perors Henry VII., Louis the Bavarian, and John King of Bohemia, all of whom he had crowned ; but, while his figure is on a scale as large as life, theirs are only half the size, and appear like children beside him. The Egyptians in their sculpture resorted to the same method of giving importance to their chief personages, and Sesostris appears a giant among pigmies. The monuments best worth notice in point of art are the following, executed at the end of the 1 5th or beginning of the 16th cent. : Prince Albert of Saxony, 1 484 ; Canon Bernhard von Breidenbach, 1497, executed with great truth of ex- pression and most delicate finish; Archb. Berthold von Henneberg, 1504, still more pure in style ; Archb. Jacob of Liebenstein (1508), and Uriel von Gemmingen. Among those of later date we may mention that of Baron Dalberg (1606), the oldest baron in Germany. Three other monuments de- serve mention on account of the persons whose memories they record. One is that of Fastrada, third wife of Charle- magne (794), by the side of the Beauti- ful Doorway leading into the cloisters, (date 1397-1412), lately restored. She was not buried here, but in a church now destroyed, from which the monu- ment was removed. Another is the tomb of the Minstrel or Minnesanger Frauenlob, "Praise the Ladies," so called from the complimentary charac- ter of his verse. His real name was Hcinrich von Meissen. He was a ca- non of Mainz cathedral, and so great a favourite of the fair sex, that his bier was supported to the grave by 8 ladies, who poured over it libations of wine at the same time that they bathed it with their tears. His monument, a plain red tombstone, stands against the wall of the cloisters. It bears his portrait in low relief, copied (1783) from the original, which was destroyed by the carelessness of some workmen. A more worthy monu- ment from Schwanthaler' s chisel was erected in 1843 to the " Ladies' Min- strel," by the ladies of May once. On the 1. side of the nave is a red sand- stone monument, erected 1357, to St.. Boniface, the apostle of Germany, and first Archbp. of Mayence. He was an Englishman named Winfried, born at Crediton, in Devonshire, of noble and wealthy parents ; and became a monk in the Benedictine Abbey of Nutsall, near Winchester, in which, in the be- ginning of the 8th cent., he taught poetry, history, rhetoric, and the Holy Scriptures. He left his country, with, 11 other monks, to preach the gospel to the barbarous nations of Germany ; in the course of his mission he converted more than 100,000 heathens ; his mis- sionary labours, interrupted only by 3 short visits to Eome, lasted more than 30 years, and extended from the Elbe to the Rhine, and from the Alps to the ocean. He was created a bishop, but without a diocese, by Pope Gregory II. ; archbp. and Primate of all Ger- many by Gregory III. ; and by Pope Zachary, Archbp. of Mentz, then first constituted the metropolis of the Ger- man churches. The attention of travellers should also be directed to the pulpit, a modern restoration ; the figures of the apostles are copied from those by Peter Vischer at Nuremberg. An ancient font of lead, formerly gilt (1328), behind the eastern altar, and the brazen doors opening into the Market-place (called Speise Markt), on the N. side of the cathedral, also de- serve notice ; they were brought from the ruined Liebfrauenkirche, and are as old as the 10th cent. In 1135 Bp. Adalbert I. caused to be engraved on the upper valves of the doors an edict, by which he conferred various import- ant privileges upon the town in consi- deration of the aid which the citizens, his subjects, had afforded him, in res- cuing him out of the hands of the Em- peror. They procured his release from o 2 292 ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). MENTZ. MUSEUM. Sect. IV. prison by seizing on the person of the Emperor, and detaining him as a host- age until their own sovereign was de- livered up. In the sacristy are preserved two very ancient chalices, probably of the 10th cent. ; one, the gift of Archbp. Willigis, is a curious sample of Byzantine art. The Elector of Mentz, who was also Archbishop, was premier prince of the German empire ; he presided at Diets, and at the election of Emperor, where he exercised very powerful influence ; so that one Primate, Werner, on pro- posing a candidate, is reported to have added, " I have others in my pocket." His dominions comprehended 146 Grer- man square miles, with a population of 400,000 souls, and a revenue of If mil- lion of florins. He maintained a body- guard of 2000 men and a squadron of hussars. The canons of the Cathedral, sup- ported by its enormous revenues, lived a jovial life, as may be gathered from the answer they returned to the Pope, who had reproved them for their worldly and luxurious habits : " We have more wine than is needed for the mass, and not enough to turn our mills with.*' St. Stephen's Ch. (in the S.W. part of the town), built 1317, has a nave and 2 aisles of nearly equal height : the clois- ter is of the 15th cent. It contains some old paintings on gold grounds and numerous monuments. Museum, in the ancient Kurfiirstliche Schloss (close to the Rhine, and at the end of the long street called Die grosse Bleiche) . The collections consist of, 1 . Paintings, of no great excellence. The best works are, 1. Christ and the Four Penitents, David, the Magdalen, the Prodigal Son, and the Penitent Thief, by Otto Vennius ; 2. A Carmelite Monk receiving the dress of his order from the-Virgin, A. Caracci. 3. St. Francis receiving the Stigmata (five wounds), Guercino; 16. Virgin and Child, Lo- renzo da Credi, the gem of the collec- tion ; 17. St. Apollonia, Domenichino ; 18. St. Andrew and St. Ursula, by Lu- eas van Leyden, or some old German master. 20-28. The Life of the Virgin, by M. Griinewald, are curious : also Adam and Eve, by Albert Diirer, but so much injured and painted over as to show few traces of the master. 2. An- tiquities, curious, because for the most part found in the neighbourhood, such as Roman altars, votive tablets, and inscriptions in which the names of the legions stationed on this spot are com- memorated. There are also several capitals of columns from the palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim, in the style of Roman architecture, being, in fact, the plunder of ancient buildings in Italy ; some fragments of sculpture from the venerable Kaufhaus, pulled down with- out cause in 1805 ; and a model of the double stone bridge which Napoleon proposed to throw over the Rhine here. The Town Library is a very respectable collection, where are preserved some interesting specimens of the earliest printing. The Theatre is a handsome building designed by Moller, after the classical model of the theatres of the ancients, in which the outer form bears some relation to the interior. The Public Gardens (die neue Anlage) outside the fortifications, on the S., be- yond the Neue Thor, and nearly oppo- site the mouth of the Main, are highly deserving of a visit, on account of the beautiful view they command of the junction of the Main and Ehine, of the town of Mayence, the Rheingau, and the distant range of the Taunus. To add to the attractions of this spot, the ex- cellent military bands of the Austrian and Prussian regiments play here once a-week, Friday, between 4 and 8 p.m. There is a cafe at one extremity of the garden, forming the favourite evening resort of the inhabitants in summer. Another good view may be had from the top of the Tower of Drusus, an an- cient Roman structure, believed by some to be the tomb of Drusus, son-in-law of Augustus, the founder of Mayence, whose body was brought hither after his death. From mutilation or decay, its base is now reduced to smaller di- mensions than the upper part, which may have produced in it a fanciful re- semblance to an acom, and perhaps have given rise to the name Eichel stein, acorn, by which it is vulgarly known. All the external and well-fitted ma- Rhen.Prm. route 3 8. — therhine(d). mentz. English church. 293 sonry has long sinco been stripped off, and the passage for the staircase lead- ing to the top was drilled through the solid mass in 1689. It stands within the Citadel, but is readily shown by one of the soldiers. Excavations made in form- ing new fortifications have laid bare the foundations of the original Roman Castel- lum Mbguntianum of Drusus, and show that it was an oblong square, with flank- ing towers, planted on the eminence overlooking the confluence of the Main. The music of the Austrian and Prus- sian military bands, which may be heard on parade almost every day in the week during summer, is remarkably good. Mayence has been from very early times a frontier fortress. It owes its existence to the camp which Drusus pitched here, which he immediately afterwards converted into a permanent bulwark against the Germans, It soon became the most important of that chain of fortresses which he built along the Rhine, and which were the germs of most of the large towns now existing on that river. Though reduced from its former wealth and splendour by the fortunes of war, and still showing, in its irregular streets and shattered and trun- cated buildings, the effects of sieges and bombardments, it ought not to be regarded merely as a dull garrison town. Europe is indebted to this city for two things which have had the greatest influence in effecting human improvement — the liberation of trade from the exactions of the feudal aristo- cracy, and the Printing Press. It was a citizen of Mayence, Arnold von Wal- boten, who first suggested the plan of freeing commerce from the oppression of the knightly highwaymen, with whose strongholds the whole Continent was overspread at the beginning of the 13th cent., by a confederation of cities which led to the formation of the Rhenish League, 1247. This same "Walboten deserves to be held in grateful remembrance by every Rhine tourist; since many of the ruined castles which line its banks were re- duced to their present picturesque con- dition at his instigation, and under the energetic rule of the Emperor Rudolph of Habsburg, as being the haunts and strongholds of tyranny and rapine. Mainz was the cradle of the art of Printing, and the birthplace and resi- dence of John Gensfleisch, called Gut- enberg or Gutemberg, the discoverer or inventor of moveable types. In 1837 a bronze statue of Gutemberg, modelled by Thorwaldsen r a Dane, and cast at Paris by a Frenchman, was erected in the open space op- posite the Theatre. The expenses (26,000 fl.) were defrayed by sub- scriptions from all parts of Europe. Gutemberg' s house no longer exists; but upon its site stands the Civil Casino, a club or reading-room at the end of the Schuster Gasse, the members of which have erected a small statue of him. Gensfleisch (literally, goose-flesh) was born between 1393 and 1400, in the corner house between the Emmeran St. and the Pfandhaus St. which still exists, and his first printing-office, from 1443 to 1450, is the house called Hof zum Jungen, or Fdrberhof. He was buried in the ch. of St. Francis, now pulled down : it stood opposite to the Hof zumHumbrecht, and the new houses of the Schuster Gasse now occupy its site. The English Church service is performed every Sunday by a clergyman licensed by the Bishop of London, in the Lycee, formerly Jesuits' College. Near the village ofZahlbach, about a mile beyond the Gauthor, are consider- able remains of a Soman aqueduct nearly 3000 ft. long, which conveyed water to supply the garrison ; 62 pillars remain, but it is said to have originally con- sisted of 500. The reservoir which it fed is hardly to be detected at present, in a small pond near the Gauthor, called the Duck-puddle (Entenpfuhl) . Excellent Hochheimer and Rhine wine may be procured at the house of Hoff- man. Von Zabem, bookseller, has a good collection of guide-books, maps, and prints. A bridge of boats, 1666 ft. long, over the Rhine, unites Mainz to Cassel, or Castel (Castellum Drusi), a busy and flourishing faubourg, strongly fortified as a tete de pont. At the extremity of the bridge a bomb-proof block-house serves in time of peace as a barrack ; 294 ROUTE 39. — THE AHR VALLEY. AHRWEILER. Sect. IV. but in case of war the roof can be re- moved, and tbe tipper platform mounted with cannon. There is a heavy toll for carriages passing the bridge. Railway to Frankfurt in 1 hr. ; — to Wiesbaden by Biebrich in 16 min. — Trains 6 times a-day. (Ete. 99.) Eilwagen daily to Darmstadt ; to Coblenz ; to "Worms ; to Saarbruck, Metz, and Paris. (Rte. 101 .) The excursions to be made from Ma- yence are, — to Frankfurt by railway ; to Wiesbaden ditto (6 m.), visiting the Chateau and Garden of Biebrich on the way. (Rte. 99.) Steam-boats go from Mayence several times a day to Coblenz and Cologne, twice a day to Mannheim during summer, and daily to Strasburg (see Rte. 102). ROUTE 39. THE AHR, VALLEY. — REMAGEN TO AHR- WEILER AND ALTENAHR. From Remagen to Altenahr, 4 Germ, m. = 19 Eng. m. There is a good car- riage-road from Bonn to Altenahr, over the hill direct, 3| Germ, m = 17± Eng. m. ; going this road and returning to Bonn by Remagen, the excursion will occupy a long day of 8 or 10 hrs. Schnellpost daily from Bonn to Alten- ahr in 4 nrs., and to Treves in 18 hrs. The scenery of the Ahr valley is by many esteemed equal in beauty to that of the Rhine. By means of excellent roads it may be explored with the ut- most ease and convenience. A carriage may be hired at the Preus- sischer Hof in Remagen, with 1 horse, to Altenahr and back, for 3 thai. Pas- sengers by the steamer may land at Linz, and, crossing the Rhine to Kripp, engage a carriage there, or start from Sinzig. The pedestrian may cross the hills from Bonn to Altenahr, by the Kreuz- berg, Ippendorf, Rottgen, and Mecken- heim, or, landing from the steamer at Remagen, after seeing the church on the Apollinarisberg may walk over the shoulder of the hill, and join the car- riage road at Heppingen. The road on the 1. bank of the Rhine as far as Re- magen is described p. 264. Between Remagen and Sinzig the Ahr in summer often dries up to a mere thread, but, swelling in winter to a furious torrent, enters the Rhine. A. carriage road, turning off abruptly at the bridge of Sinzig, ascends the valley along the 1. bank of the stream, passing through Bodendorf and Lorsdorf ; and under the basalt-capped hill of Lands- krone. The ruined walls on its sum- mit are those of a castle, built 1205 by Philip of Hohenstaufen dining the war between him and Otho of Brunswick for the Imperial crown, 1198-1208. Hence, during these wars of Guelph and Ghibeline, his troops attacked the Archb. of Cologne, and laid waste the neighbouring towns. It was destroyed by the French 1689 ; only its chapel escaped, partially built over a cave fined with basaltic columns, which serves as sacristy. There is a good view from this hill of the winding of the Ahr. Close by the road-side, at Heppingen, there is a mineral spring. Below Ahrweiler the valley is tame and open, though rich and well cultivated. 2 j Ahrweiler (12 m. from Remagen by the carriage road, 9~ by the road over the hill. Inns : Kreuzberg ; the host has capital Ahrbleichart ; — Kai- serlicher Hof; — Stern, good), a town of 2500 inhab., whose chief occupation and wealth are derived from their vine- yards, which cover the slopes of the valley. Arhweiler is the centre of the wine trade of the valley : the average annual produce is 1 9,000 ohms=about 74,000 English gallons. The situation of the town is pretty; it is still sur- rounded by walls, and is approached by 4 gates. The church is a beautiful Gothic edifice, with a treble choir (date 1245-74). The town was burnt by the soldiers of Turenne, 1646, and suf- fered again from the French in 1688. The picturesque Calvarienberg, on the opposite side of the Ahr, is crowned with a Franciscan convent, which has been converted into an Ursuline nun- nery, and occupied by sisters from Montjoie, who keep a ladies' school. The gate tower at the entrance of the town from Walporzheim is an interest- ing object, well preserved externally. At Walporzheim, the first village traversed by the road after leaving Rhenish Prussia, route 39. — the ahr valley, altenahr. 295 Arhweiler, the- Burgundy grape is cul- tivated, and produces a strong red wine, which is highly prized. — Ahrbleichart (%. e. Bleich-roth, pale-red). Here the valley contracts, and is hemmed in by rocky cliffs, and the wild and beautiful sceneiy , which has obtained for the val- ley the name of " Kleine Schweitz," begins. At Marienthal, to the rt. of the road, are the ruins of a convent. Above the road rise singularly formed, jagged precipices, 200 feet high, from which an isolated block, called die bunte Kuh, projects over the road. A footpath leads over the hills from be- hind the village of Dernau to Alten- ahr; "the carriage road, now conti- nued uninterruptedly along the 1. bank of the Ahr, passes in sight of the pic- turesque village of Rech, and under a rock crowned by the ruined castle of Saffenburg, to Maischoss. The patient toil exerted in cultivating the vine on every accessible shelf of rock up the declivities of the hills around is not surpassed in the most valuable vine- yards on the Rhine. Here and at Lochmuhle is the principal fishery of Rumpchen (minnows), the Gyprinus phoxinus of naturalists, which are taken in baskets (like eel pouts) placed in weirs or dams of the river. They should not exceed an inch in length, and, hav- ing been cooked in cider and water, are packed in baskets made of willow bark, which imparts to them the bitter flavour for which they are esteemed." The Ahr is also celebrated for its crawfish and trout, which, however, arc taken chiefly in its tributary streams. " The rocks at Lochmuhle are low and narrow, and a passage has been cut through them by which the road passes without fol- lowing the windings of the river round the projecting hill, but rejoins it on the other side of the cutting. The road then makes a nearly semicircular sweep along the river-side, being supported on a wall washed by it." — T. H. Before reaching Altenahr a most striking scene opens out : precipices of slate rock rise round to a height of 350 ft., partly wooded, partly covered with vines, and on their highest peak are perched the ruins of the Castle of Alt- enahr, the finest object in the whole valley. A footpath strikes off to the rt. above Reimerzhofen, and leads to the Gross, the best point of view in the valley, whence the castle is well seen. A path on the opposite side leads up to the castle, or down into Altenahr. The traveller should send on his carriage from this to Altenahr, and walk up to the cross. The precipitous rock, crowned by the castle, seems to deny all passage up the valley ; the river sweeps round its base, and forms so complete a curve, that, after a course of a mile and a half, it almost returns to the same point. A tunnel 192 ft. long has been cut through the rock to allow the passage of the road. 1~ Altenahr (Inns: TJMch's, at the entrance of the town, and Caspari's are good and clean) is a village of 400 inhab. Ascend to the ruined Castle of Altenahr, above the town ; the view will richly reward the trouble of the ascent. The traveller should then ascend the hill on the W. side of the valley, be- yond the bridge of Altenahr, in order to command a full prospect of the wind- ing course of the Ahr ; the path, how- ever, is steep. Travellers having come to Altenahr in a carriage, or being unable to walk, will of course retrace their steps to the Rhine. A moderately good walker may cross the hills by a bridle-road, which, by the directions given below, he can easily find without a guide, provided he can speak a little German, from the vale of the Ahr to the abbey of Laach (7 stunden = 20 miles) (Rte. 40), whence he should return to the Rhine through the pretty valley of Brohl, which ought not to be missed. The carriage road from Altenahr up the valley proceeds by way of Alten- burg, situated under a singular isolated rock, formerly crowned by a castle of the lords of the Ahr. The castle of Kreuzberg, with the village of the same name, presents a striking point of view, and the church of Piitzfeld, perched up in the rocks, with a singu- larly high steeple, is also very pictur- esque. The road continues through Briick and Honningen to Dumpelfeld, where the Adenau falls into the Ahr, 296 ROUTE 40. — THE LOWER EIFEL. LAKE OF LAACH. Sect. IV, and the traveller proceeding to Treves quits that river. The carriage road ceases at 2 1 Adenau, a town of 1200 inhab., on one of the tributaries of the Ahr, under the mountain called Hohe Acht, 2434 ft. above the sea, and from which there is a fine view. Adenau itself contains nothing worth notice ; but not far distant are the ruins of the castle of Niirberg, the finest and most extensive feudal stronghold in the Eifel. From hence the traveller may find his way to Mayen (p. 298), passing another old castle, Virneburg, whose lords in ancient days, besides other possessions, were the proprietors of 23 villages. The traveller proceeding on foot to the Abbey of Laach from Altenahr should proceed up the valley on the road to Adenau by Altenburg and Putz- feld to Briick, and there turn to the eastward along the Hurein brook or Kesselingerthal. He need not go along the road as far as Briick ; but may, if he pleases, cross the shoulder of the hill above Piitzfeld into the Kesseling val- ley. Proceed up this valley through Kesseling (2 hrs. from Altenahr) and Staffel; a little beyond which latter place, where a brook comes down a valley and falls into the Hurein, turn to the right, i. e. the S., and, skirt- ing along the side of the hill to the E. of the brook, proceed to Nieder-Hecken- bach. At the sign-post in this village turn to the left to Ober-Heckenbach, and so on to Hannebach. In passing over the high ground between these two places there is a fine view of the seven mountains ; and just after leaving Hannebach, the castle of Olbruck is seen standing out boldly on the left. From Hannebach proceed over the ridge to Engeln, thence over the high land in a S.E. direction to two crosses, or rather a broken cross, where the rt.-hand road leads to Mayen, and that on the left to Laach. About § hr. further on, a sign- post at the entrance of a beech wood, points with one of its arms to Laach ; plunge boldly into the wood, and after a short walk the lake and abbey burst upon you. EOUTE 40. THE LOWER EIFEL. BROHL TO THE LAKE OE LAACH, MAYEN, AND LiJT- ZERATH. The traveller may leave the Rhine at Brohl or Andernach (see p. 265). Suppose he starts for Brohl (where Nunn's inn is good), a cross-road, but calculated for light carriages, ascends the beautiful valley of Brohl, passing in succession Nippes, a hamlet named from the Dutch Nieuwe Huis, the paper- mill and trim garden of M. Fuchs, the Trass mills and quarries, the Castle of Schweppenburg, once belonging to the counts of Metternich, beneath which are many spacious halls and cavernous chambers hollowed out of the rocks. Some way higher up the valley issues forth the spring of Tonnis&ein (l^ stunde), whose agreeable mineral water resembles those of Selters, but is more effervescent. Mixed with Rhenish wine and sugar it is very palatable. Near the spring stood an ancient Carmelite convent, almost concealed beneath cliffs of tuff-stone and slate : it was demo- lished, and the materials sold for their value, in 1829. Numerous jets of carbonic gas issue out of the rocks in this neighbourhood, some of which have been ingeniously collected by the owner of a chemical manufactory, and are employed in his works. Our path here turns out of the Brohlthal, diverging to the 1. into a side valley. The scenery of the pretty winding valley is very pleasing as far as | Wassenach, a small village (6 m. from Brohl), lying at the foot of the hills, whose interior includes the lake of Laach, and having an humble inn, Laacher Hof, where pike from the lake may generally be had. A continued ascent of about 1 m. from the village leads to the margin of the Laacher See, a very singular lake, of a nearly circular form, supposed to occupy the crater of an extinct volcano, and nearly resem- bling the crater lake of Bolsena, in Italy. It lies 666 ft. above the Rhine, is about If m. long, and about If broad, its area being 1300 aeres. The depth is great, increasing towards the Rhenish Prussia. route 40. — the lower eifel. laach. 297 centre, where a plumb-line sinks to 214 ft. There is a popular notion similar to that attached to the lake Avernus, in Italy, that no bird can fly over the Laacher See, in consequence of the poi- sonous vapours arising from it. This belief seems to have originated from the circumstance that a jet of carbonic acid gas issues from a scarcely percept- ible opening on the N. E. side of the lake. It is the only remaining symp- tom of the volcanic action once so powerful in this district. Bodies of birds, squirrels, bats, toads, &c, have been found in a pit near this jet, killed by the noxious vapours, which resemble those of the Grotto del Cane, in Italy. The Laacher See is fed by numerous springs below the surface, which keep its basin constantly filled. It has no natural outlet ; but the superfluous waters are carried off through a subter- raneous canal or emissary, nearly 1 m. long, cut by the monks in the 12th century, after an inundation which threatened to overwhelm the abbey. A new tunnel is projected by the pro- prietor, to lay dry a portion of the lake bed. The appearance of the deep blue lake, hemmed in on all sides by a ridge of hills completely covered with luxuriant wood down to the water's edge, is ex- ceedingly imposing as well as singular. On a near examination its banks will be found to be scattered over with masses of scoriae, cinders, ashes, and pumice, and other volcanic products. At the opposite extremity, in a quiet secluded nook, shut out as it were from the whole world, lies the deserted (1 stunde) Abbey of Laach, a picturesque object, with its 5 towers. It was ori- ginally a very wealthy Benedictine Convent with more than 200 chambers. There were 52 monks at the time of its suppression by the French. Its revenue having been sequestrated at the time of the French Revolution, it was sold a few years ago, together with the lake and woods adjoining, for only 40,000 thalers. It is the property of the Prasidentinn von Delius, by whose family it is inhabited during the sum- mer, and seems to be kept in perfect repair. A great portion of the building is now, however, used for farming pur- poses, and its once hospitable halls occupied by cow-stalls. The Church, containing several old family monu- ments, has been purchased and re- stored at the expense of the K. of Prussia. The colouring in the church and cloisters is the same as that which was discovered under the whitewash to have originally decorated the archi- tecture. It is perhaps the most perfect and complete example known of an edi- fice in the round-arched style. It was built between 1093 and 1156. It is entered at the "W. end through a cloister, The tomb of the founder, Pfalzgraf Henry II., stands within the ch. at the W. end, surmounted by his effigy in wood. He is represented in his princely mantle and hat, and bearing in his hand the model of the ch. There is an old chapel at a short dis- tance from the oonvent, in the same style as the abbey ch., and appa- rently of the same date, which is now used as a granary. There is a small Inn in the abbey close, which will fur- nish refreshments, and provide 2 or 3 bed-rooms. There is a picturesque view of the abbey and lake from the hill about j mile on the road to Mayen on the first ascent from the shore of the lake. The traveller may return to the Rhine byway ofWassenach to Andernach along a tolerably good carriage road, a drive of about 2~ h. ; but if he has time, from Kloster Laach he should visit the great Millstone quarries of Nieder-Men- dig, 2 m. S. E. of the abbey, which have been worked, it is supposed, for 2000 years. The hard porous lava, which was probably a stream from one of the neighbouring volcanoes, extending near- ly 5 m. in length by 3 in breadth, has here been hollowed out by the quarriers into funnel-shaped pits, from the bottom of which spacious subterraneous caverns ramify, deserving by all means to be explored. The lava separates into gigantic columns from 15 to 40 ft. high, by natural seams or fissures, and some of them are left to support the roof. The small additional expense of torches to light up these caverns will be well repaid. Their temperature is icy cold. 03 298 ROUTE 41, — COBLENZ TO TREVES. MTJNSTER. Sect. IV. - From Mendig (where there is no good inn) the traveller may return to the banks of the Bhine at Andernach (6 m.) by a bad road. There are, however, many other objects of interest, both for the lover of the picturesque and for the geologist, in this district. About 2 m. S. W. of Laach are the cave-like excavations of Bell, whence oven-stone (pierre au four) is obtained. The direct road from Mendig to Cob- lenz (14 m.) passes the Ch. of St. Genovefa. A tolerable road leads from Mendig to Mayen, along the banks of the Nette, passing the interesting and well-pre- served castle of Burresheim, under the Hoch Simmer, a volcanic mountain. There are many other fine old ruined castles in the Eifel, as Virneburg, 01- briick, a noble ancient fortress : its donjon measures 45 ft. by 30 at its base, and it has a tower 170 feet high. "Wer- nerseck and Manderscheid (p. 315) are two more remarkable castles. Mayen (Inns : Post ; — Stern, com- fortable) is a picturesque and ancient town, 6 m. from Laach, through Bell and Ettringen, with a castle surrounded by walls and gardens. There are many millstone quarries near it. Schnellpost daily to Coblenz. From Mayen the traveller has the choice of the following routes : — 1. By Polch to Miinster-Maifeld, Schloss Elz, Treis, and Carden, where he will find himself in the most beautiful spot on the Moselle, and may ascend that river to Treves, or descend to Coblenz. Starting from Mayen very early in the morning, and proceeding through Collig to Pillig and Schloss Pyrmont in a car- riage, the traveller may, after inspect- ing Schloss Pyrmont, walk across the country to Schloss Elz, see that, and, descending the valley of the Elz, reach Moselkern in time for the steamer de- scending to Coblenz. 2. The high post- road to Treves and Coblenz (Bte. 41). 3. If he take an interest in geology, he may proceed by a rough cross-road to the mountain called " Hohe Acht," near Kaleborn, 2200 feet above the sea, com- manding from its summit a most exten- sive view. He will find a road leading thence to Liitzerath and Bertrich (p. 299), to Ahrweiler (p. 294), and to the Upper Eifel (p. 314). EOUTE 41. COBLENZ TO TREVES — BERTRICH. 15f Pruss. m. = 71 Eng. m. Schnellpost daily in 16 hours ; with extra post the distance may be travelled easily in 12. The road, though very hilly, is good, and the country (especi- ally in the neighbourhood of Liitzerath) not unpicturesque. Within a short dis-, tance, between the road and the Moselle, there are some charming scenes. As there is no post-road along the banks of the Moselle, the best way to explore its beauties is to ascend or descend it in the steamer (p. 305). Upon the first stage from Coblenz to Treves lie many unimportant villages ; but the first of them, Metternich, gives its name to a family now known all over Europe. [Twice a week the schnellpost, in- stead of passing through Polch, makes a slight detour by the little town of Mayen, 3£ G. m. (Kte. 40) to Kaiser- sesch, If m.] 3i Polch. [The small town of Miinster-Maifeld (Inn : Bey Canaris) lies on the left of the road, about 5 m. off, in a beautiful situation. By some it is said to have been the birthplace of Caligula (?) The Ch. of St. Martin, standing on a Boman foundation, " is handsome in the interior, though plain. It contains a marble group, nearly life-size, of the Deposition, and 2 fine sculptured Tryp- tychs, or folding altar-pieces, painted. The W. end is quite castellated." — ■ F. S. About 3 m. distant, in the midst of one of the most picturesque of all the tributary valleys of the Moselle, stands the very interesting old castle of Elz, described in Bte. 42. The castle is about 3 m. distant from the Moselle. About 3 m. higher up the valley is another castle, Pyrmont, in ruins, having been burnt by the Swedes in 161-1 ; near it is a cascade.] Halfway between Kehrig and Dun- genheim the road crosses the picturesque valley of the Elz. The traveller coming from Treves, Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE 41. — BERTRICH. 299 and wishing to explore the Lower Eifel (Rte. 40), would turn off to the left at Kehrig, towards Mayen, instead of proceeding- at once to Coblenz. 2£ Kaisersesch. Cross the picturesque Martenthal. 2| Liitzerath. Inn : Post ; not good. A public carriage goes daily from Liitzerath to Alf on the Moselle : it belongs to the postmaster, who is also postmaster at Alf. He runs another carriage to Dreis. See Rte. 44. This is the best starting-point for an excursion to the volcanoes of the Upper Eifel. (Rte. 45.) [An excellent road leads through most interesting scenery from Liitzerath to Alf on the Moselle, about 10 m., pass- ing the very retired Baths of Bertrich, nearly half-way. They lie in the depths of the narrow valley of the Ues, or Issbach, distinguished for its sinuosities, which present a succession of scenes, varying every few yards, and for the umbrageous foliage of the woods, which clothe its sides from top to bottom. Just before the road descends into the valley, it passes near the Falkenlei, a conical hill cut in two as it were, crested with basalt, in the crannies of which the falcons nestle. It was probably a vol- canic crater, from which a stream of basalt, occupying the lower part of the valley above the slate rocks which form its sides, may have issued, though the lava current has not been absolutely traced to this source. Its gloomy cre- vices and grottoes, glazed with black, are well worth exploring. A mile farther, at the junction of a little rivulet with the Iss, another basaltic current enters the valley. It appears to have been cut through by the stream, which, falling in a small cascade, has laid open a singular grotto, the sides, roof, and floor of which consist of small basaltic columns, worn away at the joints, so as to re- semble cheeses. This has obtained for the cave its common name of cheese cellar (Kasekeller). The junction of the clay-slate and lava is very distinctly seen in the bed of the rivulet. The Baths of Bertrich consist of an assem- blage of inns and boarding-houses (among which 'Werling's Inn, the Kur- haus, is very good), in a romantic and retired spot, shut in by hills, and al- most canopied by woods, intersected by agreeable walks. The waters are warm (90 c> Fahr.) and sulphurous. The sea- son lasts till August ; but Bertrich is a quiet rather than fashionable water- ing place, and its accommodations are homely compared with Baden or "Wies- baden, It is well situated as head- quarters for travellers intending to ex- plore the Moselle. The steamboat from Coblenz to Treves touches daily at Alf, a village at the junction of the Issbach and Moselle 5 m. below the Baths (Rte. 42). A capital road leads thither. From Bertrich to Treves, a rough but picturesque road, over the mountains, falls into the high road at Wittlich (8 m.) ; see below.] About 2 m. out of Liitzerath the road crosses what is called the Liitzerather Kehr (from kehren, to turn), one of the valleys peculiarly characteristic of the Eifel district, and remarkable for their wonderful windings and contortions. Every projection on the one side of it corresponds with a bay or recess on the other, so that the stream of the Ues or Issbach, which flows through it, driven from one side to the other by these ad- vancing and retreating buttresses, is seen at one time in 7 different bends or turns, taking at every bend which it makes an exactly opposite direction to that in which it had previously flowed. It is altogether a singular scene. 2| Wittlich (Inn ; Post ; good), a town of 2200 inhab, An extremely bad cross-road leads hence to Bertrich baths (8 m.). The descent into the glen on this side is very fine, 2 Hetserath. Beyond Schweich the Moselle is crossed by a ferry, and the road pro- ceeds by the rt, bank to Treves, passing, near the entrance of the town, the Porta Nigra, or Black Gate (p. 302). 2f Treves (French, Treves ; German, Trier). — Inns; Trierischer Hof; Das Rothe Haus (the red house), comfortable and well situated ; Luxemburger Hof, This very ancient city stands on the rt. bank of the Moselle, in a valley of exuberant richness, surrounded by low, vine-clad hills; it has 16,000 inhab. An inscription on the wall of the Rothen 300 ROUTE 41. — TREVES. ROMAN REMAINS. CATHEDRAL. Sect. IV. Haus (formerly the Town-hall) asserts that Treves was built before Rome — " Ante Romam Treviris stetit annis MCCC." Without giving credit to this, it may fairly be considered the oldest city in Germany. Julius Caesar, when he first led the Roman armies into this part of Europe, found Treves (b. c. 58) the flourishing capital of a power- ful nation, the Treviri, who, as allies of the Romans, rendered them great as- sistance in conquering the neighbouring tribes. The Empr. Augustus esta- blished here a Roman colony, under the name of Augusta Trevirorum, and be- stowed on it the privileges of having a senate and magistrates of its own. It became the capital of First Belgic Gaul (which, it must be remembered, com- prised not only Gaul, properly so called, but the whole of Spain and Britain) ; and in later times it was the residence of the emperors Constantius, Constantine the Great, Julian, Valen- tinian, Valens, Gratian, and Theodosius, and became so eminent in commerce, manufactures, wealth, and extent, and withal so advanced in learning and the arts, that Ausonius the poet, who lived here, calls it the second metropolis of the empire. It was indeed the capital of the Roman empire IS", of the Alps. Although almost annihilated during the invasion of the Goths, Huns, and Van- dals, it arose to a height of splendour nearly equalling its former state, under the rule of the Archbishops of Treves, who were Princes and Electors of the empire. Many of them seem to have aimed more at temporal than spiritual sway. They maintained large armies, which, after the fashion of the times, they did not scruple to lead in person, clad in armour. The ambition and talents of many of these episcopal rulers increased their dominions so much as to obtain for them considerable political influence in Germany. Treves was taken by the English under Marlborough in the War of the Succession, 1702-4; and at the French Revolution suffered the usual fortune of having its churches and convents stripped of their wealth, and the buildings turned into stables or warehouses. Before that event Treves boasted of possessing more ecclesiastical buildings than any other city of the same size. Treves is at present a decayed town, owing the chief interest it possesses for the traveller to the Soman remains still existing in and about it. No other city of Germany or northern Europe pos- sesses such extensive relicts of the mas- ters of the world. They are not, it is true, in the best style of art, and are remarkable rather for vastness than beauty ; and in this respect bear no comparison with the Roman remains in the S. of France or in. Italy. They have likewise suffered severely, not only from the Vandalism of the Vandals themselves, but from the prejudices of the early Christians, who believed they were doing good service to their reli- gion by effacing all traces of Paganism from the earth. Many of the buildings have been demolished, to furnish ma- terials for modern constructions. In the market-place stands a 'pillar of granite, surmounted by a cross, raised to commemorate the appearance of a fiery cross in the sky, seen, according to an obscure tradition, in 958. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen is an irregular building, chiefly in the earliest Romanesque style. The semicircular terminations both of the E. and W. ends are full of Roman bricks. Indeed the nucleus of the building is supposed to have been of Roman construction, and to have been built by the Empress Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, who deposited, in it the supposed relic, our Saviour's^ Coat icithout seam ; which, after an in- terval of 34 years, was exhibited for 8 weeks in 1844 to 1,100,000 pilgrims ! The first historical mention of it is in 1190; a full accoimt has been pub- lished by Prof. Marx, of Treves. The original building of Helena is supposed to have consisted of 9 arches supported in the centre by 4 colossal pillars of granite ; 3 of these still exist in their place ; indeed, all the 4 Corinthian ca- pitals are visible in the interior of the church. The fotuth gave way, and, to prevent the total destruction of the building, its place was supplied by a square pier of masonry, and the others were walled up by Archbp. Poppo, who Rlien. Prus, r. 41. — liebfrauenkirche. palace, baths. 301 repaired the church in the 11th cent. This fractured column lies at present on the outside of the church ; it must have heen brought from a distance, — perhaps from the Odenwald. The E. choir was added in the latter half of the 12th cent., and is an instance of the latest and lightest Romanesque. The church was roofed and altered about 1200, at which time additions in the pointed style were introduced. Within the church are numerous monuments of Electors of Treves, including that of the warlike prelate Richard von Greif- enklau, who defended the city in person against Franz of Sickingen. ' ' A marble bas-relief, on the tomb of Archbp. Hu- go, of the Adoration of the Magi, is worthy of observation." — D. J. The carving of the marble pulpit is good, as far as the mutilations caused by the French leave the means of judging. The seats of the choir are singularly inlaid with ivory and wooden mosaic (Marqueterie) . A portion of the large funds derived from the exhibition of the Holy Coat are being applied to the restoration of the Cathedral, which is carried into effect by painting over the marble and wood carving, and white- washing the stonework. The cloisters date from a very early period. Adjoining the cathedral stands the far more graceful Church of our Lady {Liebfrauenkirche), built in the most elegant Pointed style, between 1227 and 1243 ; and being one of the earliest specimens of pure Gothic, to be com- pared with the similar and contempo- raneous churches of Marburg in Hesse, Altenberg near Cologne, and the ca- thedrals of Amiens, Salisbury, and Co- logne. The semicircular portal is richly ornamented with sculpture, and the in- terior, in the shape of a Greek cross, is supported by 12 pillars, each bearing the picture of an apostle. A little black stone in the pavement near the door is the only spot whence all these can be seen at once. The monument of Archbp. Jacob von Sirk is a fine work of an un- known sculptor. A doorway in the N". transept also is well worth attention. The portal of the Jesuits' Church is very good. The Palace of the Electors and Bishops, a very handsome and extensive build- ing, is now a barrack. The principal staircase displays much rich and elabo- rate carving. This palace stands partly upon the site of an enormous Roman edifice, only a fragment of which re- mains ; the larger portion having been demolished to make way for the episco- pal edifice, erected in 1614. This co- lossal fragment has been included in the palace, and goes with the vulgar by the name of the Heathens' Tower {Heiden- thurm). It was probably the Basilica or imperial hall attached to the Palace, the semicircular termination or apse at the E. end having been the tribunal ; and the whole perhaps at one time turned into a church ; as was the case with similar halls in Rome. Be this as it may, the gigantic proportions of this Roman edifice, whose walls are more than 90 ft. high, and 10 ft. thick, give a very good idea of the vast dimensions of the whole when entire. It is at the same time a masterpiece of architecture ; as the bricks and tiles of which it is wholly composed remain to this day perfectly smooth on the surface, solid, and compact, and the walls, after the lapse of ages, are without a crack or seam; but the King of Prussia has caused it to be cleared out and restored in its original condition, and to its former use as a ch. Additional in- terest attaches to these old walls, if we consider them as the favourite residence of Constantine, and that out of them issued the decrees which governed at the same time Rome, Constantinople, and Britain. In front of this building extends an open space of ground, now used for drilling troops ; at its further extremity stand the shattered remains of the Baths, Thermae (Bader-Palast). Until within a few years they were included in the S. E. angle of the fortifications of the town,- and were half buried in the earth ; so that the windows on the first story, being on a level with the ground, served as an entrauce into the town, and were barbarously broken away at the sides, in order to admit the market- carts of the peasantry : from this the building got the name of the White Gate. Under the direction of the Prus- 302 ROUTE 41. TREVES. AMPHITHEATRE. BLACK GATE. Sect. IV. sian government these ruins have been laid bare. They resemble, on a small scale, the Thermae of Caracalla and Domitian at Eome. Vaulted rooms, reservoirs, remains of a hypocaust, earthen pipes, and channels for the pas- sage of hot as well as cold water, have been brought to light, and seem to ex- plain the original destination of the building. The massiveness of the well- turned arches, and the thickness of the walls, will excite admiration at the skill of the builders who raised them, and surprise at the violence which has re- duced them to so utter a state of dila- pidation. About | m. to the E. of the baths, outside the walls, on the road to Ole- wig, is the Roman Amphitheatre. It comes unexpectedly into sight, being scooped out of the side of the Marsberg, a hiU covered with vineyards, which but a few years ago extended over the arena itself. The late King of Prussia purchased the ground, and cleared away the earth which covered it to the depth of 20 ft. It is interesting in an his- torical as well as an antiquarian point of view, as it was upon this spot that Constantine entertained his subjects with a spectacle which he called Frank- ish sports (Ludi Francici), and which consisted in exposing many thousand unarmed Frankish prisoners to be torn in pieces by wild beasts. He twice exhibited these diversions (a. d. 306 and 313), and the fawning chroniclers of the time have not scrupled to call it a magnificent sight, " magnificum spec- taculum, — famosa supplicia." So great was the number of victims, that the savage beasts desisted of their own ac- cord from their work of destruction, and left many alive, fatigued with slaughtering. Those who survived were made to fight as gladiators against one another; but they are said to have spoilt the amusement of the hard-hearted spectators, by voluntarily falling on each other's swords, instead of contend- ing for life. The arena itself, excavated out of the solid rock, and carefully le- velled, is 234 ft. long, and 155 broad: deep channels for water run round and through the centre : they were supplied by an aqueduct from the stream of the Euwer. Horns, tusks, and bones of various wild animals have been dis- covered in digging, and one or two cave- like vaults in the side walls were, it is supposed, the dens in which they were confined previously to exhibition. This Amphitheatre, capable of holding about 6000 persons, was of humble pretensions in comparison with those of JSTismes, Verona, or the Coliseum, as, instead of being surrounded by several ranges of vaulted arcades of masonry, the sloping banks of earth, thrown up in excavating the arena, served to support the seats for the spectators. All traces of these have disappeared. The stones were probably used for building houses, as the amphi- theatre was long regarded no otherwise than as a quarry. Archways of solid masonry flanked by towers (no part of which now remain) formed the main entrances to the arena at the N. and S. E. extremity ; in addition to which, 2 vaulted passages (vomitoria), bored through the hill, led into the arena from the side of Treves, and still remain in tolerable preservation. One of them has been converted into a cellar, and contains the wine which grows imme- diately over it. It is commonly called the Kaiserkeller (Caesar's cellar), because it is supposed to have led to the Eoman Emperor's private box. The other is not yet cleared out. The Roman Aque- duct, which conveyed water to Treves from the Euwer, still exists in those places where it passed under ground ; it was 3 or 4 ft. broad, and nearly 6 ft. high. The part which was supported upon pillars across the valleys had en- tirely disappeared. The Black Gate, Porta Nigra (Schwarzes Thor), called also Porta Martis, is the most interesting monu- ment of antiquity in Treves ; and has all the massive simplicity of the Eoman style. Neither its age nor use has been satisfactorily ascertained, but it is re- puted (with much probability) to have been built in the days of Constantine the Great, between 314 and 322. Kug- ler, indeed, regards it as a work of the Franks, dating not from classic times, but from the middle ages. Its front is decorated with rows of Tuscan columns, its lower story is very massive, and it Rhenish Prussia, koute 41. — Treves, bridge, abbeys. 303 may have originally been the entrance gate on the N. line of the city wall. Some have fixed the date of the building prior to the arrival of the Ro- mans, and have called it the Forum, Capitol, or Council-house, of the Bel- gee ; but the style of architecture favours the belief that it was a work of the Lower Empire. In the 11th cent, an anchorite named Simeon of Syracuse, who had been a monk in the convent of Mount Sinai, on his return from the Holy Land posted himself on the top of the build- ing, in imitation of his namesake Simeon the Sty lite. His ascetic and eccentric life gained for him the repu- tation of sanctity ; and in consequence he was enrolled in the calendar. Not long after his death the building was consecrated and dedicated to St. Simeon by Archbp. Poppo. To fit it for the service of religion, he added a semi- circular apsis to one end, which still remains a curious specimen of architec- ture, and formed 3 churches in it, one above the tother, in which service was regularly performed down to the begin- ning of the present century. Like most ancient structures, the lower part of it, as far as the tops of the gateways, had become buried beneath earth and rub- bish, so that the entrance to it was by a long flight of steps, leading to the first floor. In this state Napoleon found it on his arrival at Treves. It is in- sinuated that a want of ammunition, as much as a taste for art, induced him to free the building from its incumbrances, as he went no further than tearing off the thick lead from the roof, which he melted into bullets. The work of im- provement has been executed by the Prussian government ; the building has been divested of its ecclesiastical cha- racter, and restored, as far as possible, to its original condition, the earth having been cleared from its base. It exhibits various marks of the dilapida- tions of barbarous ages and people. The masonry, of vast blocks of sand- stone, averaging 4 or 5 ft., but in some instances 8 or 9 ft. long, rough on the outside, was originally so neatly fitted together, without the aid of cement, that the joints of the stones could scarcely be discerned ; but they have been chipped and mutilated at their angles, in order to extract the metal clamps which united them, and now seem to hang together by their corners. The interior serves to hold a few shat- tered fragments of antiquity, of no great interest, dug up in the neighbour- hood : the most curious pieces are, a bas-relief of gladiators found in the amphitheatre, a mermaid with 2 tails, several earthenware pipes from the baths, and 2 Roman milestones from Bitburg. Besides the Roman remains already enumerated, there is within the town (in the Dietrichs Strasse, not far from the Rothe Haus) , a Tower or Propug- naculum, in an excellent state of pre- servation. The Bridge over the Moselle is most probably the oldest Roman monument in Treves, and founded in the time of Augustus ; it is mentioned by Tacitus, and the date of its construction has been fixed by a learned antiquary about 28 years B.C. It originally stood near the middle of the town, which has gradually dwindled away till it has left the bridge at one extremity. Having resisted the storms of barbaric invasion, and the wild times of the middle ages, it was blown up by the French during the wars of Louis XIV. ! In consequence, the only ancient parts remaining are the piers of large stones, brought from the lava quarries at Men- dig, near the lake of Laach. Many single blocks are from 6 to 9 ft. long, 3 broad and 3 thick. There were anciently 4 abbeys at Treves, celebrated for their riches and extent all over Germany ; but of their wealth nothing now remains, and even the original edifices, destroyed by fires and violence, are replaced by modern structures. They are — St. Matthias, about a mile above the town, now con- verted into a school. The ch. (partly ancient) is actually visited by many thousand pilgrims. St. Maximin, at one time perhaps the richest Benedictine monastery in Germany, is now used as a barrack ; it occupies the site of a palace of*Constantine, but possesses no other interest. St. Martin's on the 304 ROUTE 41. — TREVES. TOWN LIBRARY. IGEL. Sect. IV. Moselle is a china manufactory. St. Mary of the Four Martyrs, below the town, stands where the residence of the Roman Prefect stood, and where 4 soldiers of the Theban legion suffered martyrdom, according to the tradition. In the Gymnasiums Gebdude (formerly a University, now removed) is the Town Library of 94,000 vols., contain- ing many literary curiosities, the chief of them being the famous Codex Aureus, a MS. of the four Gospels written in golden letters, formerly in the abbey of St. Maximin, to which it was given by Ada, sister of Charlemagne. It is bound in plates of silver gilt, on which are embossed figures in high relief, interspersed with precious stones ; and in the centre is a splendid cameo, said to represent Augustus and his family. There is also here Archbishop Egbert's copy of the Gospels, as well as other MSS., and many printed books of great value ; among them Gutemberg's first Bible. There is also a large collection of ancient coins and medals, and Roman remains, principally found at Treves. The Fathers of the Church, St. Am- brose was born here, and St. Jerome studied here. The Environs abound in debghtful points of excursion, fine views, &c. Pallien, a village on the 1. bank of the Moselle, at the mouth of a ravine up which the road to Aix-la-Chapelle is carried, is worth visiting on account of the picturesque character of the rocky dell, of the water-mills enclosed be- tween its cliffs, and of its brick bridge of a single arch thrown over the ravine by Napoleon. (Rte. 43.) On the height above Pallien stands a pretty villa, called the White House : it com- mands a good general view of the valley of the Moselle and of the town of Treves. Igel, a small village, with an inn, about 6 m. from Treves, on the high road to Luxemburg, and upon the an- cient Roman highway, is particularly deserving of a visit from all who take an interest in remains of antiquity, on account of the Igel Sdule (monument of Igel), a beautiful Roman structure, standing in the midst of it, clt>sc to the road. It is a four-sided obelisk of sand- stone, more than 70 ft. high, bearing carvings, inscriptions, and bas-reliefs, but so mutilated in parts, that neither its age nor destination has yet been precisely ascertained. 4 or 5 different explanations have been given of it, and at least as many readings of the inscriptions by the antiquaries. One states it to have been raised to com- memorate the marriage of Constantine and Helena ; another, that it records the birth of Caligula., tracing some re- semblance between his name and that of the place, Igel. A third considers it to allude to the apotheosis of some person of imperial rank. The plain matter of fact seems to be, that it was set up by two brothers named Secundi- nus ; partly as a funeral monument to their deceased relatives ; partly to cele- brate their sister's marriage, which is represented on one of the bas-reliefs by the figures of a man and woman joining hands. The Secundini were a rich and powerful family, who, it appears from the inscription, in addition to other offices, held those of postmaster and chief of the commissariat, and supplied the Roman army with food, accoutre- ments, and carriages, which is further denoted by the figure of a chariot, filled with armotvr, &c, the subject of ano- ther bas-relief. Prom the style of the architecture and carvings, the monu- ment has been referred to the time of the Antonines : some imagine it to be- long to the era of Constantme. Malte Brim says, " the end of the 4th cen- tury." (l It has great excellence as a work of art, and as a successful example of the combination of monumental architecture with sculptural decoration ; as a whole, its preservation is also re- markable."— £. C. L. Schnellposts daily from Treves to Coblenz in 14 hours, to Luxemburg in 6 hours, to Metz in 15 : — to Bingen (Rte. 46); and to Aix-la-Chapelle in 19 hrs. (Rte. 43.) Steamboats on the Upper Moselle between Treves, Thionville, and Metz during the summer. See Handbook for France. Dailv between Treves and Coblenz. (Rte.* 42.) Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE 42. — THE MOSELLE. 305 ROUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. — FK"OM TREVES TO COBLENZ. Distance, about 150 Eng. m. : — more than double that of the land journey, owing to the windings of the river. "Well-appointed steamers daily : — up to Treves in 1 3 day, starting from Co- blenz at 6 a. m. for Berncastel, and proceeding on the following day to Treves; down in 12 hrs., starting from Treves at 5 a.m. They take car- riages. Row-boats may be hired at every village to cross or drop down the river for short distances. Becker's " Map of the Course of the Moselle," and Delkescamp's "Pano- rama," may be useful. The voyage up or down the Moselle is a most interesting excursion ; 3 or 4 days may be very agreeably spent on its banks. This river offers a new and pleasing route to travellers visiting the Rhine, who have hitherto been content to go and return by Cologne, thus re- tracing their steps over ground they have seen before. The route by the Moselle is equally accessible ; by taking it, they will add variety to their jour- ney, and make a better use of their time. An agreeable way of seeing the lower part of the Moselle in detail in one day is to take the steamer from Coblenz up the river to any given spot of interest where it stops, just far enough to allow the traveller to visit the glens and ruins on each side, making use of a boat occasionally, and work- ing downwards, taking care to stop at some village where the down steamer will put in to take up passengers. Thus he may go up to Carden, Aiken, take a walk to Ehrenburg, cross to Gondorf, go up to Cobern, cross back to Niederfell in time for the evening boat, and so return to Coblenz. The Prussian government has devoted a considerable sum to the improvement of the bed of the Moselle between Co- blenz and Treves. In order fully to appreciate the beauties of the Moselle, it is necessary to land at certain points indicated in the following route, and view it from its high banks. The Pedestrian alone can reach by by-paths and cross-roads, not passable for carriages, the finest points of view ; at one time creeping along the margin of the river, at another surveying it from the heights above. In every village he may find a boat in which he may embark when tired, and may thus shift about from one side of the river to the other. By crossing the narrow necks of land he may often save 6 or 8 miles, and reach in § hour a spot that a boat would require 3 or 4 to arrive at. In making these short cuts, however, he may sometimes miss fine scenes on the river. The Inns upon the Moselle are im- proved, but many of them will by no means satisfy fastidious travellers. Those at Berncastel, Alf, and Carden are capital ; at Zeltingen tolerable. The usual Charges at the Inns, seen and confirmed annually by the magis- trates, are, for dinner 15 S. gr., tea or coffee 5, supper 10, a bottle of wine from 5 S. gr. to 1 Th., a bed 8 to 15 S. gr., bottle of Seltzer water 5 S. gr. The banks of the Moselle, though on the whole inferior in beauty to those of the Rhine, by no means present a repetition of the same kind of scenery. It is generally of a less wild and barren character; instead of black bare ravines and abrupt precipices, it is bordered by round and undulating hills, covered not merely with vines, but often clothed in rich woods, such as the Rhine can- not boast of. It is much enlivened with picturesque towns and villages, of which there are more than 100 be- tween Coblenz and Treves, while ruins of old castles, watch-towers, and Gothic church steeples are not wanting to give a religious or romantic tone to the landscape. The Moselle is particularly remarkable for its very complicated windings, which in several parts of its course form projecting promontories, almost isolated by the river. Some of the side valleys, too, which merge into the Moselle, are in the highest degree picturesque ; and the view of the ex- traordinary windings of the river, from the heights above it, are as singular as they are enchanting. The Moselle is not deficient in classical associations : 306 ROUTE 42.— -THE MOSELLE. TRARBACH. Sect. IV. it is even the subject of a poem by Ausonius, written probably during his residence at Treves ; and traces of the Romans may be discovered in almost every village along its banks, if not above ground, at least wherever the soil is turned by the spade. The first part of the voyage from Treves to Berncastel presents nothing of great interest : and it is not worth while to enumerate names of unimport- ant villages. 1. The tall chimneys in the recess of a valley, and the wreaths of smoke proceeding therefrom, proclaim the iron- works of Quint. rt. Neumagen is the Roman Nb- viomagus, where Constantine had a palace, the " inclyta castra Constan- tini" of Ausonius, of which few frag- ments now remain. The Church was built 1190, partly with the materials of the Roman palace. 1. Pisport (Pisonis Porta), Hain's Inn. One of the most famous vine- yards on the Moselle. rt. Opposite Dusemond is another vineyard, producing the capital wine called Brauneberger. rt. Muhlheim. Here the scenery improves in beauty. rt. Berncastel {Inns : Drei Kbnige, clean and good fare, and most com- fortable ; the landlady speaks English; — Niederehe ; — the Post, not bad), a dirty town of 2000 inhab., on the way from Bingen to Treves (Rte. 46), pic- turesquely situated under a ruined castle perched on a ledge of the Hundsruck mountains, which here approach close to the Moselle. There is a ferry here. Travellers tired of a boat should by all means cross the hills to Trarbach, an agreeable walk of an hour from Bern- castel. The distance by land is about 3 miles, by water 15. The inn at Trar- bach is bad. 1. Directly oyposite Berncastel lies Cus. The Hospital was founded by Cardinal Cusanus, who was born here, the son of a poor fisherman, and raised himself to that dignity by his talents. Attached to it is a Gothic chapel con- taining the very fine monument of John of Neuberg (1569). The rt. bank of the Moselle is here draped with vine- yards from top to bottom, (rt.) A little below Graach is . the Priory of Mar- tinshof, now secularized. rt. Zeltingen. — Huber's Inn, toler- ably comfortable and moderate. This may be said to be the centre of the wine district of the Moselle, in which all the best sorts are produced. 1. Uerzig. Below this village, in the face of a tall red cliff called Michael- slei, a castellated wall is visible. It covers the mouth of a cave which once served to harbour a band of robber- knights, and afterwards to shelter a hermit. It was accessible only by means of high ladders. rt. Trarbach (the derivation of the name, from "Thronus Bacchi," is pro- bably fanciful). — Inns: Brauneberg, and GrUfinburg. The best red wine of the Moselle may be had here. The situation of this highly picturesque but most dirty little town, of 1300 inhab., is very beautiful ; it lies in the mouth of a side valley, opening upon the Mo- selle : but it is not otherwise interest- ing, and its narrow and dirty streets offer no temptation to penetrate within its gates. A neat Townhall, in modern Gothic style, has been built. The castle above it, called Griifnburg, was one of the strongest between Treves and Coblenz, commanding entirely the pas- sage of the Moselle. It was the family residence of the noble Counts of Spon- heim, and was built in the 14th cent. (1338) with an Archbishop's ran- som. A long and deadly feud had existed between the Archbishops of Treves and the Counts of Sponheim, when, in 1325, the death of Count Henry held out to the reigning Arch- bishop, Baldwin, the prospect of enrich- ing himself at the expense of the widowed Countess; taking advantage, therefore, of her unprotected position, he made inroads into her domain, plun- dering her subjects, and laying waste her lands. The Countess Loretta, how- ever, was gifted with a manly spirit, and was not a person to submit tamely to such insults and injury : so, calling together her vassals, she boldly ex- pelled the intruders with loss and disgrace ; equally to the surprise and indignation of Baldwin, who little Rhen. Prussia. ROUTE 42. TRABEN. ALF. 307 expected such opposition from a female. The very same year, as the bishop was quietly and unsuspectingly sailing down the Moselle to Coblenz, with a small retinue, his barge was suddenly arrested nearly abreast of the Castle of Starken- burg, by a chain stretched across the river below the surface ; and before he had time to recover from his surprise, armed boats put off from the shore, and he was led a prisoner into the Castle of the Countess. She treated her perse- cutor with courtesy, but kept him fast within her walls until he agreed to abandon a fort which he had begun to build on her territory, and paid down a large ransom. The finest scenery of the Moselle lies between Trarbach and Cobern. 1. Traben. — Inn, Hotel Claus, unpre- tending, but clean and moderate. Opposite Trarbach rises a high hill, converted into a promontory by the windings of the Moselle. On the sum- mit of it Vauban constructed for Louis XIV. (1681), in the time of peace, and upon German territory, a strong for- tress, completely commanding the river up and down. The pretext for this proceeding was the unjust claim urged by Louis to the domains of the Counts of Sponheim. After 8000 men had been employed in constructing it, and an expenditure of many millions of francs had been incurred, it was razed to the ground, in conformity with the treaty of Byswick, 16 years after it was built, and a few broken walls and shat- tered casemates alone mark the site of Fort Montroyal. The view from it is grand. rt. Starkenburg, a village on an emi- nence, which once bore a castle of the same name, belonging to the Counts of Sponheim, and mentioned above. Its outworks extended down to the water- side, and some towers and walls still remain. rt. Enkirch, a village of 2000 inhab. ; near it are fragments of shafts of pillars, which go by the name of the Temple, and are perhaps Roman. On approaching (rt.) the village of Piinderich, the ruins of (1.) Marienburg, alternately a nunnery and a fortress, appear in sight; and from their posi- tion, on the summit of a high dorsal ridge, which the Moselle by its wind- ings converts into a promontory, remain long in view. The distance to Alf, from (1.) the village of Reil, near which a steep footpath (Rothenpfad, from the red colour of the soil) strikes upwards through the vineyards across the Isth- mus, is under 3 m.; by the winding Moselle it is a voyage in ascending of 1^ hour. Travellers should on no ac- count omit to land here, opposite Piin- derich, and walk across the neck to Marienburg and Alf, which may be done in an hour. The view from the eminence a little to the "W. of Marien- burg, called Prinzenskopfchen, is the most surprising and pleasing that the whole course of the Moselle presents. It is a little like that from Symon's Yat on the Wye, but is on a much grander scale. Owing to the excessive sinu- osities of the river, 4 different reaches appear in view at once, radiating as it were from the foot of the rock on which you stand. A waving amphitheatre of hills, covered with dark forest, occupies the horizon, and nearer at hand vine- clad slopes, villages at the water-side, and old castles, with the Fort Arras on the Issbach, to the W., are the acces- sories of this beautiful panorama. There is a little inn within the ruins of Marienburg, where you may breakfast or dine. rt. Zell (Koch's Inn, not bad) is a little town of 1800 inhab. opposite the point of the promontory on which Ma- rienburg stands, overlooked by a guar- dian watch-tower. 1. Alf. (Jnn, Bei Theissen, excellent — the best on the Moselle.) Alf, a good halting-place for the traveller on the Moselle, is a village prettily situated at the mouth of the winding valley of the Issbach; above it stands the church, and farther up the valley rises the pic- turesque hill fort of Arras, which stood out for a long time, in 1138, against Adalbert, Archbishop of Treves, who swore not to shave till he had taken it, and kept his word. 2 m. up the valley are the extensive iron forges and fur- naces of M. Remy, constructed accord- ing to the most improved English method. The iron is brought from 308 ROUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. COCHEM. CAKDEN. Sect. IV. Bendorf on the Rhine, the coal from the mines of Saarbruck. About 6 m. up this sylvan valley are the retired Baths of Bertrich (p. 299) ; an excellent new carriage road leads to them from Alf, where vehicles may usually be pro- cured. No one should quit Alf without enjoying the very extraordinary pros- pect from the Prinzenskopfehen near the Marienburg mentioned above — half an hour's walk. Soon after leaving Alf there is a very remarkable echo. 1. Bremm, a wide and solitary spot, enclosed by huge dark hills. It is dif- ficult to guess how the river finds its way out ; indeed it has very much the appearance of the head of a lake. The steep slopes behind the village resemble somewhat the cliff of the Lurlei in boldness, but they are covered with vines to the very top. rt. On the pretty green meadow op- posite stood, until the time of the French Revolution, the nunnery of Stuben ; the massive wall of a ruined chapel, pierced with pointed windows, still remains. 1. There is a path from the village of Eller over the hills to Cochem, only 4 m. long. The windings of the river between these two places cannot be less than 12m., but those who avail them- selves of this short cut will lose some of the prettiest scenery on the river. 1. Ediger is charmingly situated. 1. Senhals. Heinrich's Inn. Little else than vines visible hereabouts, (rt.) Senheim at alittle distance from the river. rt. Beilstein. Inn execrable. Tra- vellers should on no account think of stopping here. One of the most pic- turesque ruined castles on the Moselle, surmounted by a square donjon-keep, overlooks Beilstein. It belonged to the Electors of Treves, who deputed their •noble vassals, the Metternichs and Winneburgs, to hold it for them. The small village nestles at the foot of the rock on which it stands. 1. Cochem. — Inns ; H. de 1' Union ; Cornreichs; Romischer Konig. The distant view of this ancient town of 2500 inhab., guarded as it were by the 2 picturesque castles aloft upon the hills behind, is most romantic and attractive. But let the stranger be satisfied with admiring it at a distance, since, within, it surpasses in the filth and closeness of its streets all other towns on the Moselle. The Castle at the upper end was an imperial fortress; in 1689 it held out, together with the town, for a long time against the forces of Louis XIV., but being at last, after 4 separate as- saults, taken by storm, the greater por- tion of the garrison, consisting of 1600 Brandenburgers, and many of the citi- zens, were inhumanly put to the sword, and the houses and castle burnt. This atrocious act was ordered by the French Marshal Boufflers, and executed by his subordinate officer, M. de Grignan, the son-in-law of Madame de Sevigne. The lower castle of "Winneburg is lost from view as you draw near the town, being situated some way up the glen of the Endertbach. It is the most ancient family seat of the Metternichs; the head of the house at present being the late Austrian Prime Minister, who has repaired it and fitted it up. The large building seen above the spire of the church, near the lower end of the town of Cochem, was originally a Capuchin convent, and is now a school. 1. Clotten, a small village, with a church on an eminence, in the gap of a valley overlooked by a ruined castle. Monotonous hills intervene for a con- siderable distance between Clotten and rt. Treis, situated within a little amphitheatre of hills, from which, at a short distance from the river, 2 castles look down: one of them, Wildburg, was won in hard fight by an Archbishop of Treves, in the 12th cent. An elegant modern church has been erected at Treis. 1. Carden (Spikerman's inn, good and clean. N.B. No good inn between this and Coblenz) is a picturesque old village, in one of the most lively situa- tions on the Moselle. The Church, con- spicuous with its 3 towers, was built in the 12th cent., in honour of St. Castor, whose body was buried here, and after- wards removed to Coblenz. The ex- terior and E. end are in the Romanesque style of architecture. Within, there is a curious antique font, and a represen- tation of the Entombment ; the figures are of stone, as large as life. At the Bhen. Prus. route 42.— the moselle, schloss elz. 309 lower end of the town, by the water- side, stands a picturesque castellated building, with projecting turrets, sur- rounded by a red fringe-like ornament, and surmounted by peaked roofs ; but of its history nothing is known. " Be- hind it is a Romanesque dwelling-house, of the 12th or 13th cent., free from alterations and interpolations, which has been unaccountably neglected by draughtsmen and antiquaries." — F. P. [A road runs from Carden to the very interesting old Castle of Elz, the beau- ideal of a feudal fortress of the middle ages ; but the walk to it is still further shortened by landing at the village of 1. Muden, from which it is not more than 2 m. distant. A steep path ascends the hill, behind the village ; then, striking through fields and orchards to a farm-house, reaches a pretty green meadow, from which the winding vale of the Elz is visible, and out of which peer the singular peaked turrets of its castle, which no traveller should pass without visiting. The little stream of the Elz, remark- able for its excessive windings, almost encircles the tall bold rock on which the castle stands. A narrow isthmus of rock prevents its being an island, but this has been cut through, and over the ditch thus formed a bridge is thrown, forming the only approach. The banks of the river are thickly grown over with trees and brushwood ; and a second and rival castle, rising opposite to Schloss Elz, and within bow-shot of it, contri- butes to the beauty of this romantic valley. The Castle of Elz is a singu- larly irregular building, or group of buildings, adapted to the form of the rock on which it stands. The whole pile rises so abruptly from the preci- pitous sides of the rock that its pedestal appears scarcely large enough to hold it. The path leading up to the main entrance is cut in the rock, and is steep and slippery. It is the cradle of one of the most ancient and noble families in this part of Germany, and is an almost solitary example of a feudal residence spared by fire, war, and time, and re- maining in nearly the same condition that it was 2 or 3 centuries ago. It has lately been repaired, and is inhabited. The interior is a labyrinth of passages, turret- stairs, and chambers, many of which are of irregular shapes. Many of the apartments are hung round with family portraits, having the same degree of merit which similar subjects in English country houses usually exhibit. There are curious ornamented fireplaces (not stoves), and some rooms arc paved with monastic-looking tiles, with pat- terns impressed, not coloured. In one room there are a few pieces of armour, and one or two morsels of painted glass. These relics, and old furniture, tapestry, &c, are interesting, as illustrating the mode of life of generations long passed away. The stream of the Elz is seen from the projecting turrets, flowing in its snake-like course in the depth of the wooded gorge 80 or 100 ft. below. The rival castle before alluded to, Trutz-Elz, on the opposite rock, was built to defy the Lords of Elz, by Baldwin Bishop of Treves, who besieged them for many months, and cutting off, by this counter castle, the approaches to their strong- hold, at length compelled them to sur- render. They afterwards held this castle also as a fief from the Bishop, whose vassals they became. About 3 m. higher up the valley stands another castle, Schloss Pyrnwnt, burnt by the Swedes in 1641 ; and near it is a cascade. About 3 m. N. of Elz lies Munster-Maifeld. (lite. 41.) The Elz falls into the Moselle at Moselkern, about 4 m. below the Castle, but the path down the picturesque valley is very bad, fording the stream, or crossing it on stepping stones, 12 or 13 times in that short distance. The easier way to Moselkern is to cross the hill, or follow the heights along the brink of the glen, which command noble views.] 1. Moselkern (Inn enlarged), a village at the mouth of the picturesque vale of Elz. 1. The Castle of Bischofsstein was a stronghold belonging to the Archbishops of Treves. Its tall cylindrical donjon tower is girt round with a white streak, and a ruined chapel adjoins it. It was built 1270. 1. Hatzenport. Moritz's Inn. rt. Brodenbach stands near the mouth of the Ehrenbach. The ravine out of 310 R. 42. THE MOSELLE. ALKEN. COBERN. Sect. IV. which, it issues should by all means be explored. At first gloomy and dark, it in a short while opens out, and discloses a lovely valley with green meadows, vineyards, and water-mills closed up in front by a rocky height, on the summit of which, only 2 m. distant from the Moselle, stands the castle of JEhrenberg, towering above the tree tops. It is a splendid monument of old times, still in a tolerable state of preservation ; as it owes its decay to time and neglect, not to violence. It may be said to surpass in beauty any individual castle on the Ehine, and is well worth visiting. It now belongs to the v. Ste-in family. rt. Aiken, ,an ancient town, con- nected by a chain of towers with Schloss Thuron, one of the most picturesque castles on the Moselle, on the height above. It has two circular keeps, and the green ivy creeps along its walls. It was built in 1209, and was held in 1246 by a robber knight, the Pfalzgrave Zorn. Having committed depredations in the territory of his neighbours, the Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, he was besieged for 2 years by their com- bined forces, who, during that time, emptied 3000 butts of wine. The gar- rison, having consumed all their pro- visions, surrendered the castle; but Zorn cut his way through the enemy. 1. The village of Catenes is said to derive its name from a chain (catena) formerly stretched across the river at this point, to arrest boats and compel them to pay toll. 1. Gondorf. The conspicuous build- ing at the upper end of this village, by the water-side, is the family mansion of the Counts von der Leyen, another of the oldest and most noble races on the Moselle ; which numbers among its members many generals in the Imperial armies, and 3 Electors of Treves and Cologne. The building was repaired in 1814, and has since passed out of the possession of the Leyens. At the lower end of the village stands a gable-faced house, connected with a tall tower of defence, built 1350, and said to have belonged to the Knights Templars. A large quantity of potters' and pipe clay, obtained from pits 3 m. off, at Dreschenich, is here embarked, and sent to Holland, to form pipes for the Dutch- men. It is quite white, and of good quality ; it is dug out from beneath a bed of gravel. 1. Cobern. The heights behind this little town are crowned by 2 ruined castles — the lower, or Niederburg, and the Oberburg. Within the enclosure of the upper castle stands the very remark- able Chapel of St. Matthias. The way to it passes the new church, and the house of the pastor, who keeps the keys of the chapel, and will lend them to discreet persons. A steep footpath strikes up from a mill, through the vineyards, and behind the lower castle, which it leaves on the right. The view from the top is fine, and it takes about 20 min. to reach it. St. Matthias's Chapel is an elegant little Gothic struc- ture, in the form of a hexagon, sup- ported within upon 6 clusters of co- lumns, each formed of 5 detached marble pillars. The exact date of the building is unknown, but the style of the architecture is that of the first half of the 13th cent., and its founders are supposed to have been Crusaders, who caused it to be erected on their return from the Holy Land. This may account for the somewhat Saracenic aspect of its interior. All the arches are rounded, except those which sup- port the central tower, which are pointed and slightly horse-shoed ; the lower windows are in shape like the ace of clubs. The effect of the interior is ex- tremely light and graceful, and this chapel deserves to be visited by all who interest themselves in architecture. It has been repaired by the architect Las- saulx. rt. Diebelich (quasi Diabolieh) is famous for witches, who in the middle ages were believed to haunt peculiarly this spot, and to hold meetings for mid- night revelry on the top of a neigh- boring mountain. At the end of the 1 5th century, a bishop, who had written a book upon witchcraft, caused 25 per- sons to be binned here for that crime ! This is a pretty spot, surrounded by orchards and walnuts, with fine wooded banks opposite. 1. Winningen is a Protestant village, JRhen. Prussia, route 43. — aix-la-chapelle to Treves. 311 though all around arc Popish. A neat modorn school-house faces the river. rt. Ley. At the breaking up of the frost in the Moselle in 1830 this village was buried nearly 30 feet deep in ice, which broke the timber framework of many of the houses, and entirely swept away several; overspreading all the lower vineyards. (See p. 269.) 1. Guls, distinguished by its modern twin spires, is surrounded by orchards, which furnish cherries and walnuts in large quantities for exportation to Hol- land. A very narrow and dangerous carriage-road has been completed along the rt. bank of the Moselle, from Mosel- weiss to Niederfell. When improved and extended farther upwards, it will become equally conducive to the con- venience of the tourist, and to the pros- perity of the valley. 1. The spire of the Ch. of Metternich is seen above the trees. rt. Moselweiss, a small village sup- posed to be the Vicus Ambitianus of the Romans, and the spot where Agrippina gave birth to Caligula. The tower of the church is of great antiquity, and is mentioned in records of the year 1209. Above Moselweiss rise the fortifications of Fort Alexander, one of the outworks of Coblenz, situated between the Moselle and the Rhine. rt. Coblenz (p. 269). Some of the finest scenery on the Moselle may be explored in 2 days, from Coblenz, thus : Take the steamer as far as Alf, and put up at the good inn there (p. 307) ; proceed thence in a post-chaise to the Baths of Bertrich, 3 m. off, where the Kurhaus affords good quarters : here dine ; and if time can be spared, proceed after dinner to the Falkenlei, and return to Alf to sleep. Next morning rise early, and ascend the hill called Prinzenskopf- chen ; then take the descending steamer and return to Coblenz, or, if time will allow, stop at Carden, and walk or drive to Schloss Elz and Miinster-Maifeld, returning to Carden to sleep. Next morning hire a row-boat to Aiken, and walk thence in 2 h. up a side valley to the interesting castle of Ehrenburg, returning in time for the steamer to Coblenz, or proceeding thither by the road down the rt. bank of the Moselle. A shorter excursion may be made by taking the up steamer as far as Treis, in the morning, returning by the down boat in the afternoon. ROUTE 43. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO TREVES. 20 Pruss. m. = 93 \ Eng. m. Schnellpost daily in 21 hrs. The accommodation for travellers is on a very low scale. The only tolerable sleeping quarters are at Priim, but they are indifferent. This excellent macadamised road was completed in 1836, by the Prussian go- vernment, to open a communication along the Belgian frontier; its design seems rather military than commercial. It lies through a country wild and dreary in parts, in others very beau- tiful; in all most interesting to an English botanist, who will find in the wild heath between Treves and Mont- joie, and in the latter town itself, some of the rarest plants of his own country. The road on leaving Aix-la-Chapelle is carried under the Cologne railway, and past the picturesque, ruined, moated castle Schonforst, near which is a very large lime-tree. About 7 m. from Aix is the village of Corneli-Munster, with 750 inhab. The extensive remains of its ancient convent, founded 815, by Lewis the Pious, are turned into a cloth manufactury. 2 1 Konigsberg. 2| Montjoie, a small town of 3000 inhab., on the Roer, manufactures much cloth. [Bauer's Inn is the best.] Its fine and nearly perfect Castle was almost entirely pulled down 1836. There are slate-quarries outside the town. The village of Kaltenherberg (1370 inhab.) lies at the foot of the mountain range called Hohe Veen (Fr. Hautes Fanges, The High Fen). Their high- est summit is 2200 ft. above the sea : this is a wild and sterile district, abounding in bogs and marshes. The inhabitants are chiefly "Walloons. 2\ Butgcnbach (Inn, Poste), a village of 500 souls. A cross road hence to Spa, by Malmedi (Rte. 44). 312 ROUTE 43. — PRUM. ROMAN HIGHWAY. Sect. IV. This stage lies over a wild dreary- track, part heath, part forest, which is burnt for charcoal, to 2 Losheim, a small village. Its Church contains some relics : the cloth with which our Saviour girt himself and dried the apostles' feet — a part of his winding-sheet — fragments of the skull of St. Cornelius ! ! Near this a good cross road, on the 1., leads from Losheim to Hillesheim, in the Eifel (p. 314). Here begins the chain of hills called Schneifel, Schnee Eifel (Snow Eifel). 2§ Prilm — Inn, Goldner Stern; the best sleeping quarters between Aix and Treves, but indifferent. — D. G. Cheap and dirty. Bed, 15 S. gr. ; tea, 8 S. gr. ; breakfast, 8 S. gr. This small town lies at the S. extremity of the Schneifel, immediately beneath a beau- tifully wooded hill, and has 2100 inhab. Early in the 7th cent, the Benedictine monks fixed upon this agreeable val- ley, sheltered by hills and shrouded in woods, to build a monastery, which in course of time became one of the most wealthy near the Bhine. Its abbots had the rank of princes, and their estates lay not only in the immediate neighbourhood, but inPicardy, Zutphen, Gueldres, &c. Arnheim and St. Groar were possessions of the convent. Char- lemagne bestowed large grants upon it. His natural son, Pepin, became a monk here after incurring his father's displea- sure by his disobedience. The Empr. Lothaire retired hither, and also took the cowl. He converted his crown into a crucifix, which was preserved down to the time of the French Bevolution, when all the property of the monastery was confiscated. A portion of the old convent alone survives, and is now con- verted into a school. The church near it, in the Italian style, and uninterest- ing, replaces the magnificent original church of the Abbey Sancti Benedicti ad Pratum (whence the modern name Priim), of which no vestige now re- mains. In the burial-ground, outside the town, a stone cross is planted on the spot where the high altar stood. The walls of this edifice were pulled down to furnish materials for rebuilding the houses of the town after it had been destroyed by fire in 1769. The excur- sion to the Upper Eifel (Rte. 45) may be made from Prtim. There is some difficulty in obtaining a carriage here, except from the postmaster. In 1837 one with 2 horses was hired here for 3 dollars a day. The distance to Grerol- stein is about 12 m. The road is prac- ticable only for light carriages. Hereabouts the modern road falls in with the great Roman highway from Treves to Cologne. It is proved, by an inscription found at Marmagen, that Agrippa was the director of this, the greatest work of the Bomans in their Bhenish provinces. It was carried through a country still wild and un- peopled, but in their days as little trod- den as the backwoods of America are now. It appears by the Boman Itiner- ary, that, besides numerous post-houses (inutationes, for changing horses), there were 6 mansiones along this line of road, serving at the same time as military posts, garrisoned with troops ; as hotels, in which the emperors themselves were accommodated on their journeys; and as stations of relays of horses for couriers. The first of these was at Tolbiacum (Zulpich, the spot where Clovis and the Franks defeated the Alemanni), the last at Baedse Vicus (Bitburg). Accounts have been published of a vast subter- raneous aqueduct, extending all the way from Cologne to Treves, nearly parallel with the high road ; and it is certain that remains of such a structure are still visible at 10 or 12 different places between the two cities. Con- sidering that both these cities were situated on great rivers, well furnished with water, it is difficult to comprehend the use of so extensive a conduit. The writers of the middle ages, indeed, have not scrupled to afiirm that it was in- tended to convey a stream of wine be- tween them ! The most probable ex- planation of it is, that, instead of being one continuous water-course, it is no- thing more than a number of small un- connected aqueducts built at the same time, and probably with similar mate- rials, to supply different stations on the Boman road with water. 4£ m. beyond Priim is Schonecken, a small village of 1538 inhab. The Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE 44. — SPA TO COBLENZ. 313 ruins of the ancient castle stand upon a commanding height. It originally be- longed to the family of the Counts of Viandcn, who possessed the advowson of the abbey of Priim. It was destroyed by the French in 1802 and sold by them for building materials. 2^ Balesfeld. Between this" and Bit- burg the road does not pass a single village. The country is a tract of high land, with a rough climate and a barren soil, but abounding in woods, and fre- quently opening into beautiful views. The inhabitants are rude and unpolished, their houses and persons alike slovenly, in proportion as the land they inhabit is wild and remote. They are also ig- norant and superstitious ; and, not con- tented with keeping the usual holidays and festivals of the church, almost every village has a patron saint of its own, in whose honour festivals are celebrated. Each saint is supposed to have a pecu- liar province and to preside over some particular class of diseases. Thus St. Apollonia is invoked in cases of tooth- ache ; St. Blaize, to avert sore throats ; St. Lambert, to cure epilepsy ; St. Odi- lia, for sore eyes ; St. Lucia, for other complaints ; St. Gertrude is engaged to drive away rats ; and St. Wendelin is looked upon as the protector of cattle. On their anniversaries the people flock in crowds to the churches dedicated to these medical saints so rich in remedies, bringing offerings not only of money, but also of butter, eggs, pigs' heads, &c, which give the church the appear- ance of a market-place rather than a place of worship. Upon those days no work is done, and the evening concludes usually in drinking and gambling. 2 Bitburg (Inn, Poste, not good), a town of 1700 inhab., anciently a Ro- man station, Bsedse Vicus. [About 10 m. W. of Bitburg, within the frontier of Luxemburg, but scarcely accessible by roads, stands Vianden, a castle exceeding in extent almost any on the Rhine, an ancient possession of the house of Nassau, seated on a rock above the river l'Our. It was in good preservation until within a few years, when it was put up for sale and un- roofed. It has a remarkable chapel in the form of a decagon. 17 m. S.W. of [N. g.] Bitburg is the ancient convent of Ech- ternach, also in Luxemburg. Its Church of St. Willibrod is a basilica of great antiquity. Its pillars, decorated with Corinthian capitals, may be relics of some Roman edifice.] At Fliessem, about 3 m. from Bitburg, on the road to Priim, and not more than \ a m. from the road, is a Roman villa. It contains very perfect and beautiful mosaics and a hypocaust in excellent preservation, curiously illus- trating the mode of heating buildings and apartments by the Romans. Two Roman milestones were dug up in a wood near Bitburg ; they stood on the ancient high road, a short distance from the new post-road. They bear the name of the Empr. Hadrian, in whose reign they were set up, and the dis- tance marked upon them was 22,000 paces (M. P. XXII.) from Treves. Be- tween Bitburg and If Helenenberg there is not a single village ; but traces of the Roman road appear in sight from time to time. The very beautiful church at Helenenberg (called also the hospital) is now turned into a barn. Near Pallien, a village whose inhabitants live partly in caves cut out of the rocks, the road is carried over a deep ravine upon a bridge of a single arch, built by Napoleon (p. 304) ; and a passage has been hewn for the road itself in the solid rock, for a con- siderable distance, until it reaches the bank of the Moselle, immediately oppo- site the city of 2| Treves (see Rte. 41). The view of Treves in descending is very strik- ing. ROUTE 44. SPA TO COBLENZ. 20| Pruss. m. = 93f Eng. m. Two easy days by post — to Hilles- heim the 1st day. The engineering and making of the road is very good, and, passing through a volcanic country, it is chiefly formed with an excellent ma- terial—basalt. Though carried through a hilly country, the road is so well laid out, that 8 m. an hour on an aver- age may be made. The country offers very varied scenery — hiU and vale, P 314 ROUTE 45. — UPPER EIFEL. Sect. IV. beech, forests, heaths, corn, and grass- lands. A gradual ascent of nearly 4 m., shaded by an agreeable avenue of trees, leads out of the valley of Spa, passing- first the abandoned gaming-house and afterwards the mineral spring of Sau- veniere, situated in a clump of trees. Beyond this lies a high, level, and bare district of barren heath, resembling Dartmoor. At the village of Francour- champs the road to Malmedi, turning to the 1,, leaves that to Stavelot, in whose church is preserved the very curious Shrine (Chasse) of St. Remade. It is of copper gilt, ornamented with precious stones, mosaics, and statuettes of the Saint, the Virgin, and twelve Apostles, of silver gilt. It is probably a work of the 11th cent. About lg m. further runs the Prus- sian frontier, where baggage is slightly examined (§47). A fine view is gained on winding down the steep hill, of red sandstone, from the table-land into Mal- medi. 2J Malmedi {Inn, Cheval Blanc, an humble inn), a small town of 4000 inhab., famous for the manufacture of sole leather for shoes, there being 50 tanneries here in active work. The hides are derived from South America. The Ardennes forest furnishes the best bark. The greater part of Germany is supplied from Malmedi and Stavelot, and many of the tanners are very wealthy. The fantastic houses and gardens, in and around the town, chiefly their property, are somewhat in the Dutch style. The most remarkable of them, Montbijou, lies on our road a little way out of the town. The road enters the great highway from Aix to Treves (Rte. 43), about 8 m. from Malmedi, a little beyond 2 Butgenbach (Bte. 43). 2 Losheim, in p. 312. Here a road branches off to the E., passing under the ruined castle Kronenburg, to if Stadtkyll {Inn, Post), on the road from Aix-la-Chapelle to Coblenz by Mayence, which is traversed daily by a schnellpost, 2 Hillesheim {Inn, Post ; comfort- able, -with civil people, who make high charges), a curious old town, surrounded by walls from which there are fine views. From a hill near it a fine view is obtained of the Eifel. The country hence to Kellberg and Mayen presents fine forests and patches of beech, and some oak, with hills of volcanic forms in all directions. 3 Kellberg. — Inn, Post. A public carriage runs between the Ahr valley and Kellberg, meeting that between Coblenz and Losheim. Views of the castle of Nurberg. Through an inte- resting country, passing many dome- topped hills — from whose egg-shape perhaps the district is called Ei-fel (?) — and near to the picturesque castle Yir- neberg, to 3 § Mayen (see Rte. 41 and 40), on the post-road to 3i Coblenz (Bte. 37). ROUTE 45. THE UPPER EIFEL — PEuM TO GEROL- STEEST, DAUN, AND LUTZERATH. The country of the Eifel Gebirge is particularly interesting to the geolo- gist, from the decided traces of volcanic agency which it exhibits in its lava currents, and numerous extinct craters, many of them now filled with lakes or tarns. Apart from this consideration, the scenery of the Eifel has many fea- tures of no inconsiderable beauty and interest to induce the ordinary traveller to visit it. " The high ground consti- tuting this tract of country is much diversified with finely formed emi- nences, which are often conical or crater-shaped, and frequently wooded ; the valleys are remarkable sometimes for their bold and rocky sides, frequently capped with old castles, and contracting into narrow glens ; sometimes for their softer or wooded and verdant character ; above all, the great peculiarity of the district is the secluded, often much concealed, and singular ' maars ' or crater-lakes" — T. T. Meres in Eng- lish. The region of the Eifel is still the haunt of wolves and wild boars ; the former] not unfrequently approach hu- man habitations in the winter, and commit depredations on the flocks. The traveller visiting the Eifel from Rhenish Prussia. KOUTE 45. UPPER EIFEL. 315 Aix-la-ChapeUe or Spa will proceed by the roads described in Btes. 43 or 44 as far as Priim (Bte. 43). A post- road runs hence to Bonn and Cologne. At Priim we may turn aside to enter upon the district of the Eifel. The roads throughout it are almost invari- ably bad, especially in wet weather, and the country hilly. Gerolstein^ where the tour of the Eifel properly begins, is about 10 m. from Priim. It has a tolerable inn, with good beds, kept by the Biirgermeister (Schreiber). It is a picturesque town on the Kyll, in a valley running between cliffs of limestone and dolomite, which, more particularly on the N. side, often present precipitous and striking escarp- ments, and peculiarly formed, and sometimes isolated, rocky eminences. Above the town are the ruins of a Castle. An interesting excursion, and one that may easily be accomplished in a forenoon, is to start by the footpath leading to the clear carbonated spring at the bottom of the valley, to cross the river Kyll, and ascend the hill opposite (to the N. of the town). On the summit is a perfectly formed dry crater called the Pfaffenkaule. The surface of the hollow is now cultivated, but traces of volcanic action are everywhere apparent. A little to the "W. is a stream of lava which divides into 2 branches, and includes a hollow space termed the Hagelskaule. Near it, to the S., there is a considerable cavern, situated in the cliffs termed the Buchen- loch, formed by one of the numerous fissures in the strata, but probably en- larged by art. Thence the field may be crossed to the Ice grotto of Both, in order to see which lights and a guide may be procured at a farm-house and inn near the ch. of Both. In this cavern, which is a sort of natural ice- house, ice is always to be found during the summer, but it is said to disappear in winter. In returning to Gerolstein, the road may be varied by crossing the base of the Auberg, where innumerable fossil shells, corals, &c, are found strewed over the surface of the fields. Several persons in Gerolstein form col- lections of them for sale. — T. T. One of the curiosities of the neighbourhood is a mineral spring, called Brudeldreis, opposite Birresborn, on a hill within the Gerolstein wald. In the summer it dries up ; but if a cupful of water be thrown into the basin of rock from which it issues, a rattling is heard, and a jet of water spirted out. Dead bodies of birds and other small animals are often found near it, destroyed by having alighted within the range of the noxious vapour issuing from it (carbonic acid gas), but it is a fable that birds are killed in flying over it. Peasants stoop- ing down to drink are repulsed by the suffocating vapour, which, being heavier than the air, lies along the surface of the water, in a stratum more or less deep as the atmosphere is agitated or calm. The road from Gerolstein to Kirch- weiler (3 m.) passes the Casselburg, a picturesque stronghold, surmounting a mass of basaltic rock. Dochweiler, 3 m, farther, is a village built of lava. Near it, to the N.W,, is a large basin- shaped crater, called Dreiser- Weiher, which, though now a meadow, was evidently at a former period filled with water, and is still remarkaole for its numerous mineral springs. Dreis, in the dialect of the Eifel, means a mineral spring. Olivine, a comparatively rare mineral, is found at the S. side of the crater, sometimes in masses 18 in. in diameter, and augite is also met with. Glassy felspar is found at Ho- henfels, near this. Some of the highest hills in the Eifel surround the Dreiser- Weiher. 5 m. from Dochweiler lies Daun ; where Holzer's inn is good. The castle was the family residence and the birth- place of the Marshal who led the Aus- trian armies in the Seven Years' War, and defeated Frederick the Great at Kolin. On the summit of a steep ac- clivity near this lie 3 crater lakes, sepa- rated from each other by a narrow partition of slaty rock. The principal one, the Gmunden^Maar, is very beau- tiful. From Daun, a detour should be made by Stadfeld to Manderscheid, in order to see its old castle and the Meerfelder Maar, another considerable crater-lake in a perfectly circular basin, 100 fathoms deep ; the water does not P2 316 EOUTE 46. — BINGEN TO TEEVES. Sect. IV. occupy the whole of it. Close to it rises the hill of Mosenberg, remarkable for its 4 volcanic cones of slag ; 3 of them are perfect ; 1 is broken down on the S. ; from one of them a current of basaltic lava descends into the valley. Gillenfeld (Burgermeister Zilchen's Inn), on the road to Lutzerath, passing Hedersdorf, is the next point of in- terest. Here is situated the Pulver- maar, one of the largest and most beautiful crater-lakes of the Eifel, 330 ft. deep. On the way from Gillenfeld to Lutzerath is the village of Strotz- busch, built in the hollow of a crater- lake, and near it there are remains of another crater, formerly perhaps a lake. There is a post-road from Lutzerath to Daun, 2 \ Germ, m., but it does not pass through Gillenfeld or Strotz- busch ; and from Daun through Doch- weiler to Hillesheim, 2£ Germ. m. Lutzerath is distant from Daun, by the direct road, about 12 Eng. m. "We have now entered upon Route 41 . KOUTE 46. BINGEN TO TREVES. 16J Pruss. m. = 76 Eng. m. Schnellpost daily in 14J h. It sets out from the post-house on the 1. bank of the Nahe, close to Bingen bridge. The chief part of this road is excellent, though hilly; it is carried out of the valley of the Nahe by well- constructed zigzags, and at one point, where seats have been erected, com- mands a charming view. There is considerable beauty in the gorge leading down to the village of lj Stromberg, with the ruins of Castle Goldenfels, which was bravely defended against the French, 1793, by the Prussian Lieut, v. Gauvain, with 35 men. A monument commemorates tbe event. 3 Simmern(7>m, Post), on the Hunds- riick, or Hunsriick. We follow the line of the old Roman road as far as Kirchberg. 2| Buchenbeuem. From this to Berncastel the road is very hilly, run- ning over the high table-land of the Hundsrxick (Dog's Back) which ex- tends between the Rhine, Moselle, and Nahe. For a considerable distance neither house nor human being is to be seen. The country is a bleak uncul- tivated waste of moor and moss, with forest interspersed. Here and there a distant view over hills and valleys ap- pears. "We again follow the line of the old Roman road, called in the country Steinstrasse. By the side of it is seen a small truncated tower (Stumpfer Thurm), said to be (?) a Roman work. It is supposed indeed, that the Ro- man station Belginum, or Tabernse, may have stood upon this spot. A little farther on, the road descends through a narrow and winding ravine (the Tiefenbacherthal), whose sides, formed of ragged slate rocks, are ex- ceedingly picturesque, in many places overhanging the road, and sprinkled over with trees and underwood. Con- siderable mines have been driven into these rocks, and roofing slate is obtained from them. Many of the entrances to them open close upon the road- side. At the bottom of this steep de- scent lies 3^ Berncastel, on the Moselle. — /«», Three Kings. Page 306. The Moselle is here passed by a ferry- boat ; a good road leads to 3^ Hetzerath, on the high road from Coblenz to Treves. 2;| Treves. Route 41. ROUTE 47. SIEGBURG AND LIMBURG. 23f Germ. m. = 105 Eng. m. A macadamised post-road, 1 j Germ, m. shorter than that by Coblenz. In wet or foggy weather it is preferable to that by the Rhine ; no inn between Siegburg and Limbing. Schnellpost daily in 23 hrs. 3^ Siegburg (/»», Star, tolerable), a town of 2500 inhab., on the Sieg, about 4 m. above its junction with the Rhine. Upon the rock of St. Michael. in a singularly beautiful situation, im- mediately overhanging the town, stands the ancient Benedictine Abbey, founded Mhen. Prussia, route 47. — cologne to frankfurt. 31' in 1060 by Archbishop Hanno, who is buried within the fine Church. It is now a Lunatic Asylum. A new road runs to Bonn, crossing the Sieg by a ferry some way below Siegburg, and the 'Rhine by the flying bridge. 2 Uckerath. If Weyerbusch. 1 Altenkirchen. Here the brave French General Marceau (the Bayard of the republic) received his death wound in an action with the Austrians under the Archduke Charles. See p. 268. 1 Wahlerod or Wahlroth, the first station in the territory of Nassau. 2 Freilingen. 1 Country high and 2 Wallmeroth. J woody (the skirt of the Westerwald) as you approach the Lahn. 2 Limburg (7wi, Post), in Rte. 96. Nieder-Selters, whence the celebrated water is obtained, is passed on this stage ; it is described under the head Schwalbach, in Rte. 95. 3 Wurges. 3 Konigstein, Rte. 97. 2^ Frankfurt a. m., Rte. 95. 318 ROUTE 56. — LONDON TO HAMBURG. Sect. V. SECTION V. PRUSSIA, continued.— MECKLENBURG— HANWER— BRUNSWICK- HESSE CASSEL— THE HANSE TOWNS, &c. ROUTE PAGE 56. London to Hamburg .... 318 57. Hamburg to Lubeck and Tra- vemunde 324 58. Hamburg to Stralsund, by Schwerin, Dobberan, and Ros- tock 327 59. Hamburg to Hanover, Bruns- wick, or Hildesbeim — Rail. 329 60. Hamburg to Bremen and Oldenburg 330 61. Hamburg to Berlin — Rail . 330 62. Berlin to Magdeburg, by Potsdam and Brandenburg— Rail. . 349 63. Berlin to Leipzig, by Witten- burg, Kothen, Halle, Worlitz, and Dessau — Rail . . .353 64. Magdeburg to Leipzig by Ko- . tben— Rail 358 65. Berlin to Dresden — Rail . . 358 66. Cologne to Berlin, by Minden, Hanover, Brunswick, and Magdeburg — Rail . . .358 67. Diisseldorf to Berlin, by El- ROUTE PAGE berfeld, Cassel, Eisleben, and Halle 367 68. Cologne to Cassel and Bruns- wick, by Paderbom . . . 370 69. Diisseldorf to Bremen, by Munster 372 69 a. Paderbom to Hanover . .376 70. Frankfurt-a.-M. to Cassel . . 378 71. Cassel to Hanover, by Pyr- mont ' 382 72. Cassel to Hanover, by Got- tingen 384 72 a. Hanover to Bremen — Rail . 386 73. The Harz. — Gottingen to Clausthal ; Goslar, tbe B roc- ken, tbe Eosstrappe, tbe Valley of tbe Bode, and Alexisbad 386 74. The Harz. — Nordbausen to Magdeburg 394 74 a. Descent of tbe Weser. — Cassel to Bremen . . .396 74 6. Wittenberge to Magdeburg — Rail 398 ROUTE 56. LONDON TO HAMBURG. Steam-boats start from London and from Hamburg Wednesday and Satur- day mornings : tbey set off so early in tbe morning tbat it is advisable to sleep on board tbe nigbt before. Tbe average passage is about 52 b., tbougb it some- times takes 60 or 70. About 25 m. from tbe mouth of tbe Elbe lies the island of Heligoland (Germ. Helgoland), on which it is sup- posed stood the celebrated temple of the Erisic god Fosete (probably the same as the Scandinavian god of justice Forseti), destroyed by St. Ludger in the 8th cent, on the conversion of the Frisians to Christianity. The temple of Hertha, mentioned by Tacitus, is also supposed by some to have been in this island, but by others, and with more probability, in the island of Riigen (see p. 403). Heligoland was ceded to Great Britain in 1807, and is now much frequented by the Germans for sea- bathing. Its pop. amounts to 3000. At the time when Napoleon had excluded England from the continent it was important as a war-station; and from B HAMBTUM© . j Mile 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 lO II 12 13 14 15 16 17 *18 References S? Peter E c SfMdiolas E ci Sf Michael... C cl Borse-Excluxnge-.-'E. d S\ Catherine- E d StJacobi. 1" c Johanneunv. E d Boding s Museum F d Stadthazis D d Great Hospital G a Oiphan Asylum, D e Klopstocks house D c Theatre D b Jlialia TTieatre E c Elbe Pavilion, B e JSfeiv fost Office D c Engl. Episcopal Ch....Q e ELhhbhe, B e ^0„ VJ-&C.Va]kcr. Prussia. route 56. — cuxhaven. altona. Hamburg. 319 its situation near the mouths of the rivers Elbe and "Weser, it then he- came a considerable smuggling depot. Its male inhabitants are chiefly fisher- men, sailors, and pilots. The destruc- tion of its shores by the sea has been much exaggerated. It has been recently shown that the well-known map of Heligoland, by Meyer, according to which the island contained 9 parishes, is entirely a work of imagination. On comparing a map made in 1793 by the Danish engineer "Wessel, with the measiuements of M. "Wiebel, recently made, it appeared that " the co-efficient of destruction in a century, for the whole circumference, was not more than 3 ft." It appears also that in the time of Adam of Bremen, whose description is extant, and of Charlemagne, the island was only a little larger than at present. See Geo). Journal, vol. iv., pt. 2, p. 32. 1. At the mouth of the Elbe stand the lighthouse and town of Cuxhaven, on a small angle of territory belonging to Hamburg. Vessels lie at anchor off this place waiting for favourable winds. It is a watering-place frequented by the inhabitants of Hamburg for sea- bathing. In winter, when the Elbe is frozen over, it is necessary to proceed from Hamburg by land to meet the steamers at Cuxhaven, a tedious and expensive journey, crossing the Elbe to Harburg, and descending its 1. bank. Beyond Cuxhaven, the 1. bank of the Elbe belongs to Hanover. Opposite to Stade, an Hanoverian sloop of war is stationed to enforce the toll levied by Hanover in virtue of an ancient im- perial grant on vessels and cargoes passing up the Elbe. The land on the rt. bank is the ter- ritory of the Duchy of Holstein, belong- ing to Denmark; it rises in gentle slopes, covered, for some distance be- low Hamburg, with wood, interspersed with handsome villas and gardens be- longing to opulent merchants. On this side lies the small town of Glilckstadt, with 6000 inhab., once a strong fortress, besieged in vain by Tilly and Torsten- son, connected with Altona by Bailway. Higher up, the little fishing village of Blankenese, with its houses scattered along the slope and among the trees one above another, is passed ; and above it, the town of rt. Altona, which joins Hamburg, and from the river seems to form a part of it, though within the Danish terri- tory. It has risen to great mercantile prosperity, perhaps to the prejudice of its neighbour, so that the Hamburgers say that its name agrees with its situa- tion, as it is AU-zu-nah (All too near) . In commercial respects it is a perfectly free town, no duties being levied, and the custom-house line for Holstein runs outside of it. It is the most commer- cial and populous town in Denmark next to Copenhagen, having 27,000 in- hab. A Railroad runs from Altona to Kiel on the Baltic. (See Handbook for N. Europe, Denmark, &c.) A handsome new Quay has been con- structed at Hamburg along the Elbe, and the harbour has been deepened, but passengers by sea-going steamers usually embark and disembark in boats to and from the vessel. rt. Hamburg. — Inns : Streit's hotel, very comfortable, the best — the land- lady is English ; Hotel St. Petersburg, well situated ; Hotel de Russie ; Kron- prinz ; Victoria Hotel ; Alster Hotel ; Hotel de TEurope. These are on the old and new Jungfernstieg and the Alsterdamm. Charges : bed and din- ner 24 sch. each, breakfast 12 sch., ^ a bottle of wine 16 sch. Hamburg is situated about 80 m. from the mouth of the Elbe, at the junction of a small stream called the Alster with the Elbe. Being a Free Town, the duties levied are so small that travellers are not bothered with any Custom-house examination on landing, but passports are sometimes demanded. Its population is reckoned at 150,000. There are about 10,000 Jews and 2000 Roman Catholics. The Current Coins are — English. Pruss. 5. d. S. gr. The Mark Courant = 1 2£=12± Double Mark -2 5 Pieces of 8 Schillings = 7 4 Sch. = 3£ 1 Sch. (copper) nearly =01 Rix dollar (specie) =47 Mark Banco (imaginary) = 1 5;| ±s 1 5 TubUrheti by John Moray Albemarle Street London 184$. 'e^V^ 1 ^*' 320 ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. Sect. V. Most of these coins are so much worn that care is required in taking them : even the natives are sometimes puzzled to know what they are. Many of them are valueless out of Hamburg. The landlords at the hotels will generally change English money. The regular money-changers are very extortionate. The English sovereign usually realises 17 marks 4sch., and is sometimes taken in payment for 17 m. 8 sch. Money accounts are kept in marks and schillings ;. there are 1 6 schillings in a mark. The marc banco and rix dollar banco are imaginary coins. The mark banco is to the current mark as 20 to 16. The piece of f dollar Kas- sengeld is the most common, and is worth 31 schillings currency. There are also pieces of 2 schillings, % sch. (called a Sechsling), ~ sch. (Dreiling). The Pruss. dollar goes for 40 sch. 1 Danish mark == 5 schillings. Piece of 8 Pdgsbank skillings == 2J sch. Hamburg is one of the four remain- ing Free Towns, and is chiefly remark- able as the first trading seaport of Germany. It is intersected by canals, called Fleethen (Fleet ditches?), and in this respect, in the antiquated ap- pearance of its houses, and in the trees growing in its streets, bears a resem- blance, in the old part of the town, to the towns of Holland. During the last 4 years, on an average 4000 vessels entered. The Elbe is navigable thus far for ships of considerable burden, which can enter the harbour and trans- fer their cargoes in barges to the mer- chants' doors, whose warehouses and dwellings generally adjoin. There are no docks. Much banking and funding business is done here ; besides which it is the depot for a large part of the exports and imports of the North of Europe. The sugar refineries have di- minished of late. By the dreadful fire of 1842 Ham- burg sustained a calamity unequalled in extent except by the fire of London. The conflagration broke out in the Deichstrasse, near the Elbe, on Thurs- day, May 5, from what cause is un- known, and raged until the following Sunday in spite of all efforts to oppose it ; widening as it advanced until it had involved in destruction 2 sides of the Alster Basin, levelling almost all the buildings, public and private, over an area of many acres, nearly in the form of a triangle, sweeping down 1749 houses, 61 streets, besides courts and alleys, and even crossing the broad canal of the Alster. The attempts made to arrest the flames, when the engines had proved useless, were, first to pull down the houses, but in unroofing them the timbers and rafters were laid open, and more readily caught fire from the sparks lodging in them. Artillery was next employed to batter them down, but the balls only made holes in the walls, and passed through. Finally, the plan of blowing them up with gun- powder was resorted to : and this use- ful but dangerous task was executed by the English engineer Lindley, who, for- tunately for the town, was present at the time, and understood the proper mode of proceeding. The first check was given to the fire by blowing up the Rathhaus and Bank, in whose cellars were deposited a vast treasure in silver bars. The churches of St. Nicholas, St. Peter, and St. Gertrude were speedily consumed ; the New Exchange, though surrounded by the flames, escaped al- most by a miracle uninjured. The sympathy caused by this event in all parts of the globe was proved by the voluntary subscriptions raised for the sufferers, amounting to near 400,000/., of which England contributed 41,000/. Besides this, immense sums were raised by loan, so that Hamburg has now the largest national debt, in proportion to its population, of any continental state, and is in this respect nearly on a par with Great Britain. Hamburg has profited to a certain extent by the calamity in the improve- ments introduced in laying out the new buildings, the widening of streets, the construction of sewers, and the filling up of some of the stagnant fleeths or ditches. A new and handsome Rathhaus is to be built on one side of a new square fronting the Borse. The finest of the new buudings are near the Alster. Many of them are of vast extent, and have been constructed at an enormous cost. The foundations arc mostly of Prussia. ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. 321 granite — the superstructure of brick and stucco. The designs show great variety, and sometimes beauty. The Arcade opening out of the Jungfernstieg is deserving of attention for its extent and beauty. Other improvements con- sist in conducting the drains to the Elbe without allowing them to enter the canals, and in causing the water of the Alster basin to flow through the town canals, and in the conversion into a new quarter of the town of a low marshy tract on the rt. bank of the Elbe called Hammerbrook. It has been inter- sected by canals, the water pumped out by a steam-engine, the surface raised 4 ft. over a space of an English square m. by the rubbish arising from the fire ; thus turning to account what would otherwise have been an encumbrance ; and the whole is being covered with streets and warehouses. The objects chiefly calculated to at- tract a stranger's attention are, first, the Costumes seen in the streets of Ham- burg ; they are not a little singular. Servant-girls, housemaids, and cooks, according to the custom of the place, rarely appear in public except in the gayest attire ; with lace caps, long kid gloves, and a splendid shawl. The last article is elegantly arranged under the arm, so as to conceal a basket shaped like a child's coffin, containing clothes, butter or cheese, or other articles pur- chased at market, as the case may be. The peasants who frequent the market wear a very picturesque attire ;. they are chiefly natives of a part of the Ham- burg territory bordering on the Elbe, called Vierland, which is principally laid out in gardens, and supplies the market with vegetables. The costume of some of the other peasant women of the neighbourhood is likewise pictu- resque : they are distinguished by a small cap at the back of the head, covered with gold or silver embroidery, and a gaily decorated boddice.. Funeral processions in Hamburg are not composed of friends of the deceased, but of hired mourners, called Reiten Diener, dressed in black, with plaited ruffs round their necks, curled and powdered wigs, short Spanish cloaks, and swords. The same persons, whose number is limited to 16, attend at mar- riage-festivals, and form also a sort of body-guard to the magistrates. Their situations were formerly purchased at a high price, in consideration of the per- quisites and fees attached to them. "Upon the death of a burgomaster or other personage of importance in the town, the town trumpeter, a civic officer, is set to blow a dirge from one of the steeples. The churches have little architectural beauty, excepting St. Nicholas, in the Hopfenmarkt, a noble modern Gothic structure, with a tower and spire at the W. end, of open work, which will be a beautiful building. It is designed by the English architect G. G. Scott, who built Camberwell Ch. St. Peter's has also been rebuilt, and is a fine lofty gothic church. St. Michael's has one of the loftiest steeples in Europe, 456. ft., high, about 100 ft. higher than St. Paul's in London (34-0 ft.), from which the town and the Elbe, nearly as far as the sea, Holstein on the N\, and Hanover on the S., present themselves advanta- geously to view. It is also the station of the fire-watch (§ 43). The Borse [Exchange), a fine build- ing on the Adolphs Platz, is well de- signed.. It forms a noble hall 48 paces by 26, exclusive of the surrounding co- lonnade. On the first floor are reading- rooms, offices, &c, corresponding with Lloyd's in London, and called the Bdr- senhalle. A stranger can be introduced to read the papers. It is also the seat of the Commercium, or Board of Trade, of the Chamber of Commerce (ffan- delsgerichf), presided over by 2 lawyers and 9 merchants as judges* Change commences at 1 o'clock, and it is worth while to see the crowd that comes thronging in at that hour. At this time the smartest and prettiest of the Vierlander flower-girls may be seen about the Borse. The Schulgeb'dude, erected 1834 on the site of the ancient Dom, includes the Johanneum, a college under the care of excellent professors, where a good classical and commercial education is given for 120 marks per annum. The Town Library y consisting of about 200,000 vols., and many curious MSS.,, has been removed to this building, r3 322 ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. JUNGFERNSTIEG. Sect. V. The charitable institutions of Ham- burg are on a very munificent scale. The Orphan Asylum (Waisenhaus) pro- vides for 600 children, who are received as infants, reared, educated, and bound apprentices to some useful trade. The Great Hospital (Krankenhaus), in the suburb of St. George, is capable of con- taining from 4000 to 5000 sick, The yearly cost of supporting this admirable institution is nearly 1 7,000?. Its utility is not confined to the poor alone, as even persons of the higher classes resort to the hospital to avail themselves of the advantages of the excellent medical treatment which they may here obtain. Such patients are admitted as lodgers, on payment of a sum varying from 8c?. to 8s. a day. The Chapel contains a painting by Overbech. The subject is Christ's Agony in the Garden, with the 3 disciples sleeping below. The arr rangement and attitudes are Giottesque, the colour thick and low. The House in which Klopstocli the poet lived 30 years (1774-1803), and died, is No. 27 in the Konigstrasse. The old and new Jung fernst leg (Mai- den's "Walk) and the Alsterdamm are broad walks around the sides of a basin of water formed by damming up the small river Alster, Here is the fashion- able promenade, especially resorted to in the summer evenings, when the sur- face of the water is covered with gaily painted boats filled with water parties. It is flanked on 3 sides by handsome rows of new houses, and has a broad terrace all round its margin. At the waterside are the two most frequented cafes in the town, called Pavilions. There are floating baths on the Alster. The Stadt Theater is one of the largest in Germany, and the perform- ances and music generally very good. The play begins at 6 J and usually ends before 10. The Thalia Theater, Pferde Markt, is chiefly famed for comic pieces, and is a popular resort. The public ball-rooms in .and about the town, though not frequented by the most respectable classes, being often the resort of low company, deserve to be looked at as one of the peculiarities of the place. The best are the Elbe Pavilion, and the Schweitzer Pavilion. Some of the cellars for suppers, beer, &c, are worth a visit. The Hamburg hung beef is cele- brated. Hamburg had once the misfortune to be a fortified town, and in conse- quence was subjected to the horrors of a siege from the French, and was twice occupied by their armies, who, under Davoust, in 1813, exercised the most cruel severities and atrocities upon the inhabitants ; many hundreds of whom, men, women, and children, were driven out of the town to perish. The Ramparts no longer exist, being levelled and converted into delightful boulevards or gardens, neatly laid out, which extend nearly round the town, and between the two Alster basins. The most pleasing view of the town and river, the shipping and opposite shore of the Elbe, presents itself from the eminence, at the extremity of these walks nearest to Altona, called the Elbhohe, or Stintfang. In some parts of the town a portion of the poorer inhabitants live in cellars under the houses. In winter, and after a prevalence of "W. winds, which drive the waters of the German Ocean into the mouth of the Elbe, the tides rise to a great height (sometimes 20 ft.), some- times inundating the streets near the river. The tenants of these cellars are then driven from their habitations by the water, which keeps possession of them for days, leaving them filled with ooze, and in a most unhealthy condition from the moisture. The upper part of the house is let under condition that the Occupiers of the cellars are to re- ceive shelter at such seasons of cala- mity. Outside the Damm Gate, not far from the Jungfemstieg, is the public Cemetery, which deserves a visit, as ex- hibiting the customs and usages of Germany with regard to the resting- place of the dead (§ 45). The merchants of Hamburg are cele- brated for their hospitality aud the goodness of their dinners, as all stran- gers can testify who are well introduced. It is customary to give vails to servants in private houses ; — they expect at least Prussia. ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. 323 two marks from each visitor. The English residents here are very nume- rous, and their language is almost uni- versally understood even hy the Ger- mans. They have recently erected, with partial aid from the British Go- vernment, a Church for themselves, A British Charge d' Affaires and Consul General and Vice-Consul reside here. Beading Rooms — At Perthes, Besser, and Maukes, 12 Jungfernstieg, more than 150 newspapers and journals are taken in. Entrance for a week, 1 mark. The best shops are upon the S„ side of the Jungfernstieg, and the adjoining street Neuer Wall, Post Office. — Many foreign states have separate post-offices at Hamburg. The City post, the Thurn and Taxis, and Hanoverian post-offices, are in a large building with a lofty tower, in the Post- strasse ; the Prussian is in the Ganse- niarkt; the Danish and Mecklenburg in the Grosse Bleichen ; and the Nor- wegian and Swedish in the Grosse Theaterstrasse. The City post is the office for letters to and from England. Consuls. — All the states of the new and old world are represented here. The British, United States, and most of the other Consulate Offices, are near the harbour. Travellers not already provided with a vise' to their passports for the countries they intend to visit had better procure them here. Hackney-coaches, called Droskies, ply for hire in all the principal thorough- fares of the town. They are good and cheap. Any distance within the town costs about 8c7., and if hired by the hour the charge is Is. 6c?. The gates of Hamburg are shut every evening at dusk, and a toll, increasing progressively every hour till 1 2, is de- manded, after which persons may pass and repass all through the night, upon payment of 1 mark each. All eatables brought into the town are taxed at the gates, and even private carriages are sometimes searched, and game found in them has been seized. Omnibuses ply through the town in various directions, to Altona and Bain- ville's garden. Environs. — It is a very pleasant drive to descend the rt. bank of the Elbe from Altona to Blankenesc. The slopes bordering on the river are studded with country seats of merchants, and possess considerable natural beauty. Between Hamburg and Altona runs a narrow strip of suburb called Vorstadt St. Pauli, partly occupied by low taverns and dancing-rooms : in fact, a sort of "VVap- ping, extending to the gate of Altona, where the uniform of the sentinel and the Danish coat of arms mark the fron- tier of Holstein. At the further end of Altona is the suburb of Ottensen, where the brave Duke of Brunswick died, in 1806, from the wound he had received in the battle of Jena.. In the church- yard, by the side of the road, and under an umbrageous elm, is The Tomb of Klopstock, author of the " Messiah." Here is also a monument to the 1138 Hamburgers who perished in 1813-14, during the siege and occupation of Hamburg by the French,, and are in- terred here in one common grave — the subject of a pretty poem by Biickert. Farther on is Bainville's Tavern and garden, overlooking the Elbe.. The house itself was inhabited successively by Dumouriez and Bourrienne. The view is fine, the cuisine very tolerable, and in fine summer afternoons very respectable company repair hither to dine or take coffee. Booth's Nursery Gardens, near Flottbeck, contain many choice and rare flowers. The amateur of horticulture will do wisely in pur- chasing seeds of stocks, wall-flowers, &c, which are brought to singular per- fection here.. At Blankenesc, about 6 m. from Hamburg, Mr. Bauer's Plea- sure Grounds^ laid out in the Dutch taste, thrown open to the public on Thursdays and Sundays, are a common resort of the cockneys of Hamburg. In an opposite direction, about 3 m. NJE. from Hamburg, lies the Holstein village of Wandsbeck, in a very pretty situation. Every Sunday and holiday it overflows with visitors from Ham- burg of all classes, who repair hither to walk in the gardens of the Schloss, and enjoy the amusements of waltzing and music. Tycho Brahe the astronomer lived in the chateau, and Voss the poet also resided here. In the churchyard is the grave of Claudius. 324 ROUTE 57. — HAMBURG TO LUBECK. Sect.V. Steamboats across the Elbe to Har- burg 8 times a day. (Rte. 59.) To Amsterdam every 5 days, in 30 or 40 hours ; — to London, Tuesday and Fri- day at night : in winter, they start from Cuxhaven ; — to Hull, 4 times a week, average passage 42 hours ; — to Havre, once a week, in 50 or 60 hrs. -to Cuxhaven, 4 times a week, in 6 or 8 hrs.; — to Heligoland, 2 or 3 times a week. Schnellposts daily to Bremen — to Lubeck twice a day — by rail to Biichen Stat. Railroads to Berlin (Route 61) ; — to Kiel (from Altona) (see Handbook of Northern Europe) ; — to Hanover (Rte. 59). Care should be taken to allow plenty of time for reaching the station of the Kiel' railway, which is a considerable distance from Hamburg, and the droskies are very slow and un- certain conveyances. Travellers are conveyed by steamer to the station at Harburg for the Hanover line. ROUTE 57. HAMBURG TO LUBECK AND TRAVEMUNDE. There is a circuitous macadamized high-road to Lubeck by Ahrensburg and Oldeslohe, 9i Germ, m. == 46 Eng. m. It lies through a pleasant and fer- tile country. The territory of Ham- burg ends at Wandsbeck. 3 Ahrensburg in Holstein. 3 Oldeslohe on the Trave : salt-works. A kind of long cart, called Stuhl- wagen, is much used in this country upon the sandy cross roads. The body is made of wicker-work, so that it bends and yields to the ups and downs of the road. The seats are suspended across it, but, as it is not hung on springs, the jolting is intolerable, and the best plan is to fill the bottom with hay, upon which the traveller may re- cline more at his ease. The quickest way to Lubeck is to follow the Berlin railway as far as Biichen Stat. (Rte. 61), whence a branch railway is carried up along the 1. bank of the Stecknitz, passing Molln (where Till Eulenspiegel is reported to have breathed his last, 1350, and his grave is shown), and approaching Ratze- burg, once a bishop's see, situated jm an island in the midst of the lake of Ratzeburg. The territory belonging to Lubeck begins about 6 m. from its walls : it is limited, comprehending altogether 53,000 inhab., and is bounded by Hol- stein, Lauenburg, and Mecklenburg. 3^ Lubeck. — Inns ; Stadt Hamburg ; very good : bed, 1 mark 8 schillings ; breakfast, 12 schill. ; dinner, with bottle of wine and coffee, 2 marks 12 sch. ; — H. du Nord, also very good: table-d'hote at 3 o'clock, 1 mark 8 sch.; — Fiinf Thiirme (5 towers); — Stadt London. Money. Accounts are kept in marks courant and schillings as at Hamburg, except banking accounts, which are in marks banco, The small current coin is as much worn as at Hamburg, and is valueless out of Lubeck. The Eree Hanse Town of Lubeck is built on a ridge between the rivers Trave and "Wackenitz, which entirely siu-round its walls, and has a population of 26,000 souls ; including its surround- ing teiTitory, 53,000. Lubeck was built by the Emperor Conrad, a.d. 1066. It was repeatedly destroyed by the Danes. In the commencement of the 13th cent, it was declared a free Imperial city by the Emp. Frederick II. At a later period it entered into, and subsequently became the most con- siderable- of the towns forming the Hanseatic League, and as such de- served the name of the Carthage of the North. For full 4 centuries, from 1260 to 1669, Lubeck maintained that pro- minent position, the seat of the govern- ment of the Confederation, the* re- pository of its archives, and the station of its fleet, to the command of which sbe was entitled to appoint one of her own citizens. From the dissolution of the League, however, her importance diminished, and her commerce decayed, until she dwindled into the existing state of insignificance, from which she is not likely soon to emerge, and which is at once made evident to the stranger by the deserted and grass-grown streets and the numerous empty houses. After the fatal defeat of Jena (1806), Bliicher, retreating with the wreck of the Prussian army, and hotly pursued 'russia. ROUTE 57. — LUBECK. THE DOM. 325 by 3 French generals, Bernaclotte, Soult, and Murat, threw himself into this unfortunate town, in spite of the remonstrances of its senate and citizens, and thereby involved it in his own ruin. A bloody engagement com- menced outside the walls, but con- tinued through the streets, and ended in the expulsion of the Prussians, and in the sacking and pillage of Liibeck for 3 days. The French army of 75,000 men was long quartered upon the town to complete its ruin and misery. It is an interesting town, prettily situated. Its haven, enlivened by ship- ping, is bounded on one side by the quay and its picturesque or grotesque old houses and magazines, and on the other side by the lofty Ramparts, pro- bably some of the largest mounds of earth that were ever made ; planted with avenues and laid out with walks and drives, from which the eye looks down on the water and shipping. Lii- beck is one of the most picturesque old towns in Germany, and deserves more attention than is usually given to it by travellers. In external appearance its buildings have undergone little change since the 1 5th cent. Its houses, dis- tinguished by their quaint gables, and often by the splendour of their archi- tecture, its feudal gates, its Gothic churches, and its venerable Eathhaus, all speak of the period of its prosperity as an imperial free city. Principal Buildings : — The Bom or Cathedral, at the S. end of the town (begun 1170, and finished, after inter- ruptions, 1341), contains, in its side chapels, the monuments of many of the patrician families of Liibeck, and, in the choir, the tombs of numerous bishops and canons. The screen of the choir is perhaps one of the finest existing specimens of wood carving of the early German school, about the period of Lucas Cranach. The figures are the size of life, full of expression, and ad- mirably executed. But the finest work of art in Liibeck is in one of the cha- pels in the N. aisle. It is an altar- piece with wings, covered with a double set of shutters. Outside the outer pair the Annunciation is represented in gri- saille. The drawing is more free and graceful in this than in the coloured pictures. The first pair of shutters being opened, St. Blaize, St. John, St. Jerome, and St. JEgidius are seen — noble and grave figures, betraying some timidity in drawing, but with heads full of character and individuality. These figures are executed in the most finished manner, and with the richest colours. When the second pair of shutters is opened, the Pictures of the Passion are seen in 3 compartments, each having a principal subject ; but Memling, as was usual with the early masters, both German and Italian, has introduced, in no less than 23 distinct groups placed in the background, many of the events previous and accessory to the principal event set forth. The main group on the shutter on the left hand of the spec- tator represents Christ bearing his Cross, and the preceding events, beginning with the agony in the garden, are de- picted in the background. In the centre is the Crucifixion ; and on the other shutter on the rt. are two groups nearly equally important, the Entombment and the Resurrection ; the subsequent events until the Ascension being seen in the background. The figure of our Saviour in these compositions is, as usual, somewhat of a failure ; but in the other figures may be seen heads finely drawn and full of character. Observe the affecting scene of the En- tombment, and the heaviness of the corpse, round which the shroud is most gracefully arranged : also the beauty of some of the landscape backgrounds. Considering the period at which this work was painted, 1471, it is a marvel of art. It is wonderful for composition, expression, colour, and finish. The pic- ture is only dated and not signed, but there can be no doubt of its being one of the finest works of Memling. It is in the finest state, and was carefully washed and revarnished in 1 845. It eseaped a journey to Paris by being- concealed in the roof of the Cathedral. The stone pulpit, with panels of ala- baster (1568), and brass font (1455), are both of excellent workmanship. According to a tradition, this church is built on the spot where Henry the Lion, while engaged in the chase, fell in with 326 ROUTE 57. — LUBECK. MARIENKIRCHE. RATHHAUS. Sect. V. a stag having a cross growing between its horns, and a collar of jewels around its neck, with the produce of which the first church here was built. The legend is commemorated in two rude frescoes on the S. side of the nave. Among other curiosities is the bronze effigy of Bishop Bockholt in a reclining position, which adorns his monument, and a richly engraved brass of 2 bishops who died 1317 and 1330. Observe likewise here the circular vaulting in the nave and cross, underpinned and pointed; pews, cloister and hall, the N". porch, and the roodloft. The Marienkirche is a lofty church, date 1300, of elegant pointed Gothic, and entirely of brick, even to the reeded pillars, which are of moulded brick. The architecture and ornaments of the interior are even more interest- ing than at the Cathedral. The objects to be noticed in it are the Chapel at the E. end, resembling Becket's Crown at Cantei'bury; a handsome brass screen all round the choir ; a Dance of Death, dated 1463, curious for the costumes of the period represented in it r as well as for its being painted 35 years before the time of Holbein \ the organ and carved woodwork of the Burgomasters' seats ; the beautiful and highly antique brass font and sacrament pans ; a chapel on the S. side ; and the painted glass of the windows, by an Italian artist, Fr. Livi, who afterwards (1436) furnished those for the Duomo in Florence. They have not long been in this church, having been formerly in the Biirger- kirche, which has been pulled down. They are very inferior to the windows at Florence. At the W. end is an en- closed space formed by closing the W. door, where are deposited several cu- rious old paintings : one attributed to Wohlgemuth — perhaps correctly ; another is an altar-piece with double shutters. On the first pair being opened 4 paintings are seen, said to be (but erroneously, no doubt) by A. Durer. Inside the second pair of shutters, and in the centre, are elaborate carvings in wood of figures and Gothic tracery, — all gilt except the flesh, — representing events from the Gospel histoiy : it re- sembles a Spanish reiablo, and is cu- rious. The lion of the valets de place is a clock, behind the high altar, con- structed in 1405, which sends forth at noon figures of the 7 Electors, who march in review before the statue of the Emperor ; each as it passes makes a reverential obeisance, and then dis- appears. Overbeck is a native of Lii- beck, and two of his most esteemed pictures are in this church — Christ's entry into Jerusalem, painted in 1 824 ; and an Entombment, in 1845. The Heiligengeist Spital, a hospital of the 15th cent., has a singular but pretty W. front, and vorhalle or ante-chapel. The Katharinen Kirche, though now desecrated and turned into a receptacle for Liibeck antiquities, is a fine ch., and retains many altars and ornaments untouched, a good rood, and old paint- ings. The Crypt, unusually lofty, and above ground, is laid open. The ar- chitect should visit the Jacobs and Egidi Kirchen (with the ruined Kloster). The Gothic Rathhaus, close to the Marienkirche, was built between 1442 and 1517, but has suffered much from recent repairs. It presents its finest front to the market-place. The street entrance is by a vestibule of very neat and elegant design. The bronze figures on the door are very curious ; upstairs is a gallery with good elliptic vaulting. Within its walls in ancient times the deputies from 85 cities in Germany, who composed the Hanseatic League, held their deliberations. Here were concerted those wise measures which raised the confederation from humble beginnings to a height of power and wealth which not only enabled it to establish factories in all the great cities of Europe, including Bergen, Novgo- rod, Bruges, and London, but obtained for it the supremacy of the ocean, enabling it to wage successful war against neighbouring states, with an army of its own 50,000 strong, to depose powerful monarchs and form treaties with great kingdoms. The beautiful Hall of the Hansa, in which this coun- cil met, is divided into small rooms ; and the Bathskeller, dating froni 1443, is modernised by the Restaurateur ^vho occupies it. The senate of the town 'russia. ROUTE 58. — HAMBURG TO STRALSUND. 327 now assemble in the lower story. The presiding Burgomaster rejoices in the title of " your Magnificence," the learned Senators are addressed " high wise," and the merchant Senators " well wise Sirs." In the Market-place is a stone, upon which Mark Meyer, an admiral of Lii- beck, was beheaded for running away from the Danish fleet. One of the most curious buildings in the town is the Schiffer Innung, or shipowners' guild, nearly unaltered inside and out, and still in use. The lower story is entirely occupied by one large hall with curious carvings, divided into 3 aisles by rows of stalls, with models of famous ships of Liibeck suspended from the roof. Sir Godfrey Kneller and the bro- thers Adrian and Isaac van Ostade were born here ; their houses are still pointed out, as well as that in which Count Struense lived, near the Cathedral. The stranger should not omit to ob- tain a sight of the curious and well- executed carvings in wood, by an un- known artist, which ornament one of the rooms in the house of the Kauflewte-Com- pagnie, No. 800 in the Breitenstrasse. The Holsteiner Thor (Holstein Gate) (1477) is a singular and interesting speci- men of ancient feudal fortification, in an unaltered condition, but threatened with destruction by the railway, which has already caused the removal of great part of the old walls. The Burg Thor is a very curious and at the same time ornamental building. Until the French gained possession of Liibeck, no Jews were tolerated within the town ; they were banished to the neighbouring village, Moisling, which they still occupy almost exclu- sively. The trade of the town, which is still considerable, chiefly consists in the export of grain produced in the neigh- bouring districts, and in imports of wine, colonial produce,, and manufac- tures of its own consumption, and that of the surrounding countries. Great trade is also carried on in goose-quills for pens. Schnellpost. — Daily to Hamburg in about 6 hrs. Persons going to Berlin need not pass through Hamburg, but can join the railway at the Schwarzen- beck station, for which a Schnellpost leaves Liibeck every morning, and arrives in 6^ hrs. Persons going by steam to St. Peters- burg must have their passports signed by the Russian Consul before they can secure a berth. For all particulars re- specting a journey in Northern Europe, see Handbook for Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. „ The depth of the Trave at Liibeck has been greatly increased by dredging, so that the large steamers to St. Peters- burg, Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Dob- beran, start from hence. There is a fine avenue of lime-trees for some distance from the town on the Travemunde road. 10 m. below Lii- beck is Travemunde (i. e. the Mouth of the Trave), the port of Liibeck, a pretty small bathing-place, much resorted to in summer by Germans of the upper classes. Inns ; H. de Bussie ; Stadt Liibeck, a bath-house provided with reading-room and library ; Stadt Ham- burg ; both good and having restaurants attached. There are bathing-machines on the shore in the English fashion (called English bath-coaches), and warm sea-baths, which cost 24 schillings. Steam-boats. — Berths may be secured at the offices at Liibeck : — to St. Peters- burg once a week, from the middle of May to the middle of October ; — to Copenhagen twice a week, in about 20 h ; and to Stockholm once a week. BOUTE 58. HAMBURG TO STRALSUND, BY SCHWERIN, DOBBERAN, AND ROSTOCK. 36 Germ. m. = 172 Eng. m. Bail to Bostock in 63 h. ; thence Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 9£ h. The railway from Hamburg to Berlin (Bte. 61) is followed as far as 12£ Hagenow Stat., whence a branch line is open to Schwcrin and Bostock. 4£ Schwerin {Inns : H. du Nord ; Stadt Hamburg; Deutsches Haus), capital of the Grand Duchy of Meck- lenburg-Schwerin, 20,000 inhab., is prettily situated on the Lake of Schwe- rin, which is 14 m. long. The Bom is 328 ROUTE 58. — HAMBURG TO STRALSUND. Sect. V. one of the finest Gothic churches in N". Germany ; begun 1248, finished in the 15th cent., recently restored. The chapel of the Sacred Blood — the bu- rial-place of the Grand Ducal family — has been ornamented with paintings by Cornelius, and stained glass windows. The monument of the Duchess Helena (1524), of bronze, was cast by Peter Vischer. The Duke's picture gallery, Alexandrinen St., No. 1025, consists chiefly of Dutch and French works, and is shown daily (except Tues. and Sat.) 11-2. The Antiquarium con- tains objects of antiquity found in Mecklenburg. The Palace, a new edifice on an island, occupies the site of the Schloss, erected by Wallenstein while Duke of Mecklenburg, recently pulled down. The railway skirts the N. extremity of the Lake of Schwerin. At Kleinen Stat, a branch line diverges (1.) to 2 Wismar Stat. (Tnn, Post), a sea- port, has 10,000 inhab., and lies at the extremity of a bay, which forms one of the best harbours in the Baltic. Its buildings are exceedingly curious and picturesque. Steamer to Copenhagen 3 times a week. Between "Wismar and Bostock lies 2 Dobberan. — (Inns : Grosse Logier- haus ; Lindenhof.) Dobberan is a small market-town of 2200 inhab., pleasantly situated in sight of the Bal- tic, in a pretty country, more hilly and woody than the shores of the Baltic usually are ; the woods are of beech. It is a sea-bathing place, in a quiet rural situation. It contains a Palace of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg- Schwerin, surrounded by a park and garden, and an old Gothic Church, in which are many monuments of the Grand Ducal family. The Baths are about 3 m. distant, on the sea-shore, at a place called Der Heilige Damm, from a huge bank of shingle, thrown up, according to the story, in a single night, to protect the country from inundation : a bath-house and lodging-houses have been built for those who prefer residing on the spot. Refreshments of all kinds may be pro- cured at the baths. The great body of visitors reside in Dobberan, and drive over to the baths to breakfast. Omnibuses run to and fro. It is customary to set out at 6 in the morning for the Heilige Damm, to bathe. The finest and most extensive view is that from the top of the Dietrichs- hagen. The Gesellschaftshaus contains ball and concert rooms, adjoining the Pavi- lion in which the great dining-room is situated. Horse-races in August. The Rostock railway is carried near to Biitzow, on the Warnow, and fol- lows the course of that stream to Bostock Stat. — Inns : H. de Russie ; Stadt Stettin. This is the largest and most populous town in Mecklenburg ; it stands on the "Warnow, has 24,000 inhab., and resembles Lubeck somewhat in the antiquity of its buildings. It is the birth-place of General Bliicher ; his statue of metal is placed in the square named after him, Bliicher' s Platz. The house in which he was born, 1742, still exists in the Alt-bet- telmonchstrasse. The great Ch. of St. Mary is very light and tall, date about 1300 ; its curious brass font is probably older. Inscriptions on each side of S. door in low German and Latin barely intelligible. The house in which Grotius died, 1645, is in one corner of the market-place, close to the Rathhaus. The Rathhaus, with its 7 towers, is a singular building, resembling that of Stralsund, but inferior to it. The Uni- versity of Rostock was founded in 1419 ; there are not more than 150 students. Keppler was professor here for a short time, appointed by Wallenstein, then Duke of Mecklenburg. Warnemunde, on the shore of the Baltic, at the mouth of the "Warnow (9 m.), is the port of Rostock. Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 10^ hours. Fine forests far as o\ Ribnitz, on the backwater called Saaler-Bodden. I; Dammgarten, on the Rechnitz river, which forms the boundarv-line The road is good as Prussia. ROUTE 59. — HAMBURG TO HANOVER. 329 between Mecklenburg and Prussian Pomerania. 3£ Stralsund in Ete. 76. EOUTE 59. HAMBURG TO HANOVER, BRUNSWICK, OR HILDESHEIM. Railway from Harburg. Trains twice a-day, in 5 hrs. The country- over which it passes is desolate and monotonous, chiefly heath. Steamers. — 8 times a-day, in 1 hr., from Hamburg across the Elbe, to Harburg (Inns i Post ; Kbnig von Schweden ; good), on its left bank, a town of 4000 inhab. Passengers are landed from the steamer about a mile from the station upon an island, united by a wooden bridge to the town, which they do not enter. In 1813, the French, under Marshal Davoust, tried to connect Hamburg with the out- works of Harburg by a chaussee across the island of Wilhelmburg, wooden bridges being thrown over the marshes. This work was much over- rated, and was removed as useless in 1818 : it was not thrown over the Elbe itself, the N. and S. arms of which were passed by ferries. The view from the Schwarze Berg, behind Harburg, is fine. Bardowick, skirted by the railway, was the most important trading town in the N. of Germany before Hamburg arose. Its ancient Dom ch. is pre- served. "Winsen Stat. Liineburg Stat. — Inns : HofFnung ; — Stadt Hamburg ; — Deutsches Haus, clean and moderate. L. G. — This is a most interesting old town : though de- cayed and little visited, it was formerly the capital of a duchy, has still 13,000 inhab., and retains the aspect of its pri- mitive antiquity. The Rathhaus, though altered outside, is a real museum of art. The interior abounds in fine glass paint- ing, carved chandeliers, tapestry, embroi- dery, frescoes. The most important feature is the new Council Chamber, en- tirely covered with fine compositions from sacred and profane history, by Albert of Soest (1566-68), of very great merit. Here is preserved a curious specimen of goldsmith's work, the Biirgereid crystal, an enamelled relic- box, with a rock crystal on the top, upon which the burghers of Lunebxirg placed their thumb when required to take an oath. It is the work of Hans v. Littart, 1444. In another apartment is preserved, \inder lock and key, the corporation plate ; many of the vessels are master- pieces of goldsmith's work of the 15th cent., and there is a Madonna of silver 2 ft. high. The principal church, an interesting Gothic edifice, composed, as well as the lofty spire which surmounts it, of brick or terra cotta, contains many relics of better days. Many of the gablefaced houses are fine specimens of domestic Gothic ; many of them retain in front the orna- mented posts, with coats of arms, which marked the residence of the magis- trates. Here are salt springs and salt-works. Old walls. Bieneiibuttel Stat. ) Bevensen Stat. j Much moorland Uelzen Stat. V(the Luneburger Suterberg Stat. I Heide) is passed. Eschede Stat. ) Celle Stat. — Inns, Hannoverischer Hof ; Sandkrug. A town of 10,000 inhab., on the Aller, in the midst of a sandy plain. The Royal Palace, lately repaired, has a fine chapel. In the French garden stands a mediocre monu- ment to Matilda Queen of Denmark, sister of George III., who died here. The ancient Parish Ch. contains the burial-vault of the house of Brunswick- Liineburg. From one of its dukes, Ernest of Celle, who is buried here, the two houses of Hanover and Bruns- wick, including the Royal Family of England, are descended. The King of Hanover has a splendid Stud here. Burgdorf Stat. Lehrte Stat. — Here 4 lines meet, from Harburg, Hildesheim, Hanover, and Brunswick, and passengers are transferred from one train to another.: they must therefore take care that they get into the right one. For the route from Lehrte "W. to Hanover, or E. to 330 ROUTE 60. — HAMBURG TO BREMEN. Sect. Y. Brunswick, see Rte. 66. The railway runs southward to Hildesheim Station, Rte. 72. ROUTE 60". HAMBURG TO BREMEN AND OLDENBURG. 22f Germ. m. = 109£ Eng. m. A good road, traversed by a sehnell- post daily, in 15 hrs. to Bremen. lj Harburg. See preceding Rte. 3f Tostedt. — Inn small, but tolerable. 3f Rothenburg. — Inn clean and comfortable. 2J Ottersberg. 3£ Bremen, in Rte. 09. 2 Delmonhorst. 2 Sandersfeld. 2 Oldenburg. — Inn : Erb Prinz best, and well situated. A very dull town, in a flat country, on the small river Hunte, which is navigable up to the town. Capital of the Grand Duchy, with 8000 inhab. The chief buildings are the Grand Duke's Palace, of antique architecture, furnished in a moderate style, and containing some very poor paintings by Tischbein. In ,pne of the outhouses of the palace is a gallery of pictures, some of which bear great names ; but it is difficult to fix on any which make the collection worth a visit. Near the palace is a beautiful garden and park, and the Church of St. Lambert. Communication between Oldenburg and Bremen is kept up in summer by steamers, and considerable works have been executed on the Weser below Bremen, in order to increase the depth of water. A small steam-boat leaves Oldenburg early in the morning, and descends the Hunte to Elsfleth, where the passengers are transferred to larger boats, going up to Bremen and down to Bremerhafen : having received the passengers who have arrived from those places, it returns to Oldenburg. The steamer which meets that from Olden- burg at Elsfleth leaves Bremen early in the morning. ROUTE 61. HAMBURG TO BERLIN. — RAILWAY. 38 Pruss. m. = 178 Eng. m. — Trains in 9 hrs. The line is carried across the marsh- land on the north of the Elbe through the district of Vierland (four lands, so called from its having 4 villages), re- markable for its market gardens, and the picturesque costume of its peasantry, who are believed to be the descendants of a Dutch colony. 2*1 Germ. m. Bergedorf Stat. — A village on the confines of the Ham- burg territory. The country traversed is, for the most part, entirely flat. It is a portion of that great plain of sand which extends almost uninterruptedly from Holstein to St. Petersburg. Generally speaking, it has a character of extreme barren- ness, producing little but heath and scanty plantations of fir. The whole of this vast plain is scattered over with rounded fragments of slate and granite rocks, such as nowhere exist in situ be- tween the Elbe and Baltic, nor any- where nearer than the mountains of Norway and Sweden, from whence they must have been torn, and transported over the Baltic, but whether by some vast current of water, or by icebergs or glaciers, are questions on which geolo- gists are not agreed. These boulders occur above and below the surface, from the size of a pebble to that of a house. • 5 Reinbeck Stat. • 9 Friedrichsruhe Stat. 1*4 Schwarzenbeck Stat.; a great deal of fir forest. l-4Buchen Stat.— [1. The branch Railway to Liibeck (Rte. 57). A branch line is carried S. from here to the Elbe at Lauenburg. — Inns : Rathskeller ; Schwam A town of 3400 inhab. upon the Elbe, where the King of Denmark levies tolls on all vessels passing the Elbe.] The canal of the Stecknitz, joining the Elbe to the Baltic, crossed by the railway near Buchen Stat., is one of the oldest in Europe. "We enter the terri- tory of Mecklenburg- Schwerin, a few miles before reaching 1 *8 Boitzenburg Stat. (Klepper'slnn is tolerable), a small town upon the Elbe. Here, and at the small fortress of Dbmitz, the Duke of Mecklenburg Prussia. ROUTE 61. — HAMBURG TO BERLIN. 331 exacts a productive toll, though only a narrow slip of his territory touches the river at these points. A large part of Mecklenburg is fer- tile corn-land, contrasting remarkably with the sandy deserts of Lauenburg, near Hamburg, and the dreary waste around Berlin. Upon the heaths and commons numerous flocks of geese are fed, which furnish a large portion of Europe with quills, and the inhabitants of this country with a delicacy called goose-breasts, consisting of that part of the bird smoked and cured like bacon. 1-8 BrahlsdorfStat. 2 • 6 Hagenow Stat. Hence a branch line diverges N. to Schwerin, "Wismar, and Bostock. (Bte. 58.) 2 . 8 Luduoigslust Stat. {Inn, H. de "Weimar), a town of 4000 inhab., the summer residence of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, whose Pa- lace is the principal building. It con- tains a small cabinet of pictures, among them some good specimens of the Dutch school, and a collection of Slavonic antiquities, chiefly found in Mecklen- burg. Many were dug up on the site of the Temple of Badegast. Attached to the palace are a spacious park and garden. The Bussian chapel, contain- ing the mausoleum of the Archduchess Helena, might interest those who have never before seen a chapel dedicated to the service of the Greek church. The Stables of the Grand Duke are extensive. He possesses a fine stud, and pays great attention to the im- provement of the breed. At the village of Wobbelin, on the road to Schwerin, is a cast-iron monu- ment to Korner, the German Tyrtaeus, poet and warrior, who fell in an action near Gadebusch, fighting against the French, 1813, a few hours after com- posing his celebrated " Schwerdtlied." His remains rest under an oak, where they were interred by his brothers in arms, and a monument of cast-iron marks his grave. 1 Grabow Stat., a small town of Mecklenburg, containing large store- houses for butter, which is sold in great quantities at 6 fairs held here annually. The Prussian frontier is crossed a little way beyond Grabow, but the Custom-house examination takes place at Berlin. The railway then bends S. towards the Elbe, which it reaches at 4 • 9 Wittenberge Stat, (not to be confounded with Luther's burial-place, Bte. 63). [From "Wittenberge a line branches off to Magdeburg, crossing the Elbe, and passing by Osterburg and Stendal (Inns: Adler ; Schwan) , once capital of the Altmark. It has a cathedral and ch. of St. Mary, both of the 15th cent., and a Bolandsaule. It is the birthplace of Winkelman, the antiquary.] 1 • 8 Wilsnack Stat. 1 • 5 Glowen Stat. 2 Zernitz Stat. 1 Neustadt, on the Dosse Stat. [About 12 m. E. of this, near Neu Buppin, is the Chateau of Rheinsberg, where Frederick the Great spent many of his youthful years, and, according to his own account, the happiest of his life. Ziethen, one of the generals of the Seven Years' War, was buried at Wustrau.] 1 • 8 Friesak Stat. [At Fehrbellin, a few m. N. of Friesack, the great Elector of Bran- denburg, in 1675, gained a decisive victory, with 5000 cavalry, over the Swedes, 11,000 strong, by which he laid the foundation of the future great- ness of the House of Brandenburg.] 1 • 7 Paulinenau Stat. 1 • 8 Naucn Stat. — Inns : Stadt Ham- burg ; Golden Stern. A town of 3050 inhab. The greater part of it was destroyed by fire in 1830. 3 * 2 Spandau Stat. — Inn : Bother Adler. A strongly fortified town of 7000 inhab., at the junction of the Spree with the Havel, which is here crossed by the railway. These rivers afford the means of inundating the surround- ing country, in the event of a hostile attack. Its citadel stands on an island. The Ch. of St. Nicholas, a Gothic edi- fice of the 16th cent., contains several curious monuments, and a very ancient metal font. The Penitentiary, once the Palace of the Electors of Brandenburg, is admirably managed, and is capable of containing 500 prisoners. rt. About 3 m. before reaching Ber- 332 ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. INNS. EXHIBITIONS. Sect. V. lin the railway crosses the Spree, and near this are the Palace and Gardens of Charlottenburg. (Seep. 348.) Berlin Stat, near the Cemetery of the Invalids, outside the Neue Thor, and not far from the Model Prison (Zellen-Gefangniss). 1*5. Berlin. — Inns: H. de Eussie, near the Schlossbriicke, much recom- mended ; — H. de Petersburg ; — Mein- hart's Hotel ; — Stadt Rom : all Unter den Linden. H. de Brandenburg, com- fortable ; — British Hotel, U. den Linden ; — -H. du Nord, containing the English chapel, good ; — Goldner Adler ; — Vic- toria Hotel; — H. de l'Europe. 2nd-class inn : Rheinischer Hof, near the Anhalt Railway Station, good and moderate. Charges, &c, see § 51. Table-d'hote, without wine, 15 Sgr. ; rooms, from 10 Sgr. upwards. The Inns in general are not good. The Passport- office (Pass-bureau) is at No. 2, Molkenmarkt. The Post and Schnellpost offices, No. 60, Konigsstrasse, are open from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Droschkies (open hackney coaches) ply for hire in the principal streets. Fares for 1 or 2 persons : a drive 5 Sgr. ; 3 or 4 persons, 7 \ Sgr.; by the hour, 15 and 17£ Sgr., 1 or two horses alike. Every person is presented by the driver with a printed ticket, bearing his number and the date of the month, — an excellent regulation. A Valet de place receives usually 1 dollar per diem ; 1 5 Sgr. for half a day. The best baths are at No. 1, behind the Neuer Packhof, and 19, Neue Friedrichsstrasse . English Church. — An English Epis- copal chapel has been fitted up, close to, and connected with, the Hotel du Nord, Unter den Linden, 35. Time Table of Sights. Daily, except Sunday. — Royal Pa- lace, 10—3 (p. 336). Egyptian Mu- seum, 12 — 2 (p. 342). Raczynski Pic- ture Gallery (p. 345). Zoological Gar- den (p. 348). Bethanian, 10 — 4 (p. 346). Changing Guard, 11 a.m., and Military Band opposite the Guard - house (p. 335). Monday. — Pictures and Sculptures in Museum, 10—4 (pp. 339-340). Tuesday. — Gems and Coins, and Me- diseval Collection in Museum, 10 — 4 (p. 339). Kunstkammer, 10—4 (p. 336). Cabinet of Natural History, 12 — 2 (p. 343). Schinkel's Museum, 11—1 (p. 346). Pictures in Bellevue, 10—1 and 2—6 (p. 348). Wednesday. — Kunstkammer, 10 — 4 (p. 336). Vases* and Bronzes in Mu- seum, 10 — 4 (p. 339). Anatomical Museum, 4 — 6 summer ; 2 — 4 winter (p. 344). Royal Library, 9—12 (p. 343). Arsenal, 10—4 (p. 344). Thursday. — Kunstkammer, 10 — 4 (p. 336). Friday. — Kunstkammer, 1 — 4 (p. 336) . Gems and Coins and Mediaeval Collection in Museum, 10—4 (p. 339). Cabinet of Natural History, 12 — 2 (p. 343). Schinkel's Museum, 11—1 (p. 346). Pictures in Bellevue, 10 — 1 and 2—6 (p. 348). Botanic Garden (p. 348). Saturday. — Pictures and Sculptures in Museum, 10—4 (pp. 339-340). Royal Library, 9- tomical Museum, winter (p. 344). 344). -12 (p. 434). Ana- l — 6 summer ; 2 — 4 Arsenal, 2 — 4 (p. Berlin, the capital of Prussia, stands on the Spree, a small stream with a veiy sluggish current; which, however, by means of canals, communicates with the Oder and the Baltic on the one hand, and flows into the Elbe on the other. Population, 410,000 ; of whom 8000 are soldiers of the garrison, 7000 Jews, 5300 descendants of the French Protestants driven out of France by the religious intolerance of Louis XIV., and 20,000 Rom.Catholics. It is the residence of the King, and of the foreign ministers, among them of an English minister, and the seat of go- vernment. The great number of sol- diers gives to Berlin almost the air of a camp. The city is situated in the midst of a dreary plain of sand, destitute of either beauty or fertility. It is surprising that the foundation of a town should ever have been laid on so uninteresting a spot ; but it is far more wonderful that it should have grown up, notwith- standing, into the flourishing capital of B3EMLEM 1 Roy al Palace .... _D 4 !l2 Raciinsla. 'Picture* 2 late Kings Gallery.. A 3 private residence, C 4 13 Cathedral ... . X) 3 3 Museum C 14 Garrison, Ch,. . 4 Royal Lib rary C 4 |6 Catholic Clv.^ C 4 b University ..C 4 AS S? Nicholas D 4 6 Arsenal. C 4 17 Fr-icdrichswoder Ch.C 4 7 Guard house C 4 |18 FrenchRef. Ch. C 4 % Pal. of Monhyou C 3 J19 TheNeucMrche, C 4 P.ofPr. of Prussia, C 4 |20.$?Zfefe!»v 6%. D 4 lOP.ofPr.Carl B 4 21 TaubstumrnervInst...C 2 P. of Pr. Albert B 6 22 R.Iron, foundry B 1 2ZR. China rnanufS B 5 24 Fine Arts Acad.?. .C 4 2b Architect} Acad?. C 4 26 Gewerbe Schule ...C 5 27 Opera, house, C 4 28R.Play-honse... C 4 29 Konigstadtisches Th.Y. 3 30 Lagerhaus ..E 3 31 Cornelius' Stud io A3 p < 32Gene?-al Post office D 3 33 Statue of Frederick J. & C. WaJher Sculp. G BE 1 Royal ttolaoe 2 Late \Kinge prwate residence A Musman ■l Ro) a2 Ubntrv 5 f mi entity li Arstnal 7 Guard house 8 Tal. <■>/' fltonbycm •J f '<"' Pr, oPPnissu lOP.of Pr.Oul. \/\ U. /' or Pr. Albert n RILIH I> l VlRaciiiMki Picture GaOtwy A 3 -C I OCnOuxbvl n 3 l :< HC, m ,.« (V. D 3 c I lb Catholic CK. C I C I U. .V'.V„V,../„., U 4 C I 17 rrie,trichsue>\lcr 01 I' I c I 18 ftouA /(«■: 01 . c 1 ( :( I!) The X.ue hirche C I ( 1 20J*ftCav (Vi . D I li I 21 Tmihttummen Inxl. C 2 .. B 11 22 «.//»•« r.minlry B 1 Z.\ li.i'/uitti manufj!. 11 :» 24 /»!<■ -*-/.f .-/.lrr/i,lnt'.t,,ii/,' C 4 20^'cii iv/if SchuUl (' h 27C>/»c/K/ house C t inRPl.n haute C I >!) koiiiijttmltisehes Th E 3 QOLagBrhaus E 3 ;ll Cor nelius Snidi c \ 3 ,J-j 3> general /}•..■» .•/>!..• I) :i — ^J .Ti Atiftic .;/' lYeaeritk » /A- firvm C 1 n .)■! «,!/.,./.>■ F6 / ,i , n;,ii.**Siiiii< Prussia. ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. SOCIETY. 333 a great empire. Previous to the reign of Frederick I. it was an unimportant town, confined to the rt. bank of the Spree, and to the island on which the Palace and Museum now stand. Since that time, in 150 years, its population has increased ten-fold, and its limits have extended until its walls are 12 m. in circumference. Frederick the Great, being ambitious to possess a capital proportionate to the rapid increase of his dominions, at once enclosed a vast space with walls, and ordered it to be filled with houses. As the population was scanty, the only mode of comply- ing with the wishes of the sovereign was by stretching the houses over as wide a space as possible. In conse- quence, some of the handsomest hotels are only two stories high, and have as many as 20 windows on a line. The streets are necessarily broad, and there- fore generally appear empty. Owing to the want of stone in the neighbour- hood, the larger part even of the pub- lic buildings are of brick and plaster. The flatness of the ground and the sandy soil produce inconveniences which the stranger will not be long in detect- ing. There is so little declivity in the surface, that the water in the drains, instead of running off, stops and stag- nates in the streets. In the Friedrichs- strasse, which is 2 m. long, there is not a foot of descent from one end to the other. In the summer season the heat of the sun reflected by the sand becomes intolerable, and the noxious odours in the streets are very un- wholesome as well as unpleasant. A third nuisance is, that the streets are only partially provided with trottoirs, so narrow that two persons can scarcely walk abreast, and many are infamously paved with sharp stones, upon which it is excruciating pain to tread. The mere passing traveller in search of amusement will exhaust the sights of Berlin perhaps in a fortnight, and afterwards find it tedious without the society of friends. The stranger com- ing to reside here, provided with good introductions, may find an agreeable literary society composed of the most talented men in Germany, whom the government has the art of drawing around it in an official capacity, or as professors of the university. The names of Humboldt the traveller, Savigny the jurist, Ranke and Raumcr the histo- rians, Ehrenberg the naturalist, Von Buch the geologist, Bitter the geo- grapher, Grimm the philologist and editor of the Kinder and Haus-Mar- chen, Schellingthe metaphysical writer, Cornelius the painter, Tieck the author f who spends three months of the year here, the King having granted him a pension on that condition), all residents of Berlin, enjoy a European celebrity. The society of the upper classes is on the whole not very accessible to stran- gers, nor is hospitality exercised to the same extent among them as in Eng- land, chiefly because their fortunes are limited. The hotels of the diplomatic corps are an exception, and in them the most agreeable soirees are held in the winter season. Notwithstanding the disadvantages of situation, Berlin is certainly one of the finest cities in Europe. Some of the most splendid buildings are con- centrated in a very small space between the Palace (Schloss) and the Branden- burg Gate, or very near it. Few Euro- pean capitals can show so much archi- tectural splendour as is seen in the colossal Palace, the beautiful colonnade of the new Museum, the chaste Guard- house, the great Opera, and the Uni- versity opposite. These, with the Ar- senal, by some considered a most per- fect specimen of architecture (?), in the city, and the Aeademy of Arts, are all within a stone's throw of one another, and the greater part may be seen by turning round on one's heel, while the two churches and theatre in the Gendarmes Platz are not many paces off. Most of these buildings are situated in the street named TJnter den Linden, from a double avenue of lime trees, which form a shady walk in its centre, while on each side of it runs a carriage road. It is the principal and most frequented street in this city. The view along it is terminated by the magnificent Brandenburg Gate. The Brandenburg Gate is said to have been designed as an imitation of 334 ROUTE 61. BERLIN. FREDERICK THE GREAT. Sect. V. the Propylseum at Athens, but on a larger scale. The car of victory on the top was carried to Paris as a trophy by Napoleon, but it was recovered by the Prussians after the battle of "Water- loo, who bestowed upon the goddess, after her return, the eagle and iron cross which she now bears. A French authority (Malte Brun) describes it thus : — " Le quadrige de cuivre qui fut enleve par les Francais lors de la premiere campagne de Prusse, et qui a ete a Paris depuis 1806 jusqu'a 1814, ne decora jamais aucun des monumens de cette capitale ; — chef-d'oeuvre de patience plutot que de l'art, il fut execute par un chaudronnier de Ber- lin ; ce n'est point un ouvrage de ciselure, mais un simple releve en bosse sur du cuivre lamine." The Prussians have exhibited their gratitude and respect to the memory of the worthies of their country, in the statues of them erected in the streets and squares of the capital. Those to whom this honour has been paid are, without exception, military heroes. The Government has rendered only tardy justice to the greatest of them all, Frederick the Great, to whom an eques- trian statue in bronze, modelled by Eauch, was erected in 1851, in the Unter den Linden, opposite Prince "Wil- liam's Palace and the University. It is probably the grandest monument in Europe. It consists of a granite pedestal 25 ft. high, presenting on each face bronze groups of the great military commanders of the Seven Years' War, on foot and horseback, all the size of life, and all portraits in high relief. The most prominent figures are those of his four best generals, the Duke of Brunswick, afterwards the commander of the allies against Dumouriez and the forces of the French Convention, Prince Heinrich of Prussia, General Seydlitz, and General Ziethen. The standing figures are not selected wholly accord- ing to their rank, but have been taken on account of the honourable record of their deeds or services in the letters, despatches, and works of the King him- self. They include all the military celebrities of the period. One of the faces of the pedestal contains, between the statues of Seidlitz and Ziethen, the figures of three statesmen, Count Finck von Finckenstein, Frederick's minister of foreign affairs ; von Schlaberndorf, the chief of the ministerial departments, who did so much to keep the finances in order during the worst periods of the war ; and Count von Carmer, the state chancellor, who completed the code known as the Allgemeine Landrecht, and reorganised the whole legal system. Three other names connected with the arts and science are also found in this division — Graun, Frederick's favourite musical composer, Lessing, and Kant. The whole number of portrait figures, the size of life, on the four faces of the pedestal, is thirty-one. To reproduce them correctly the best authorities have been consulted, and authentic drawings, busts, and medals of the period, have been strictly followed. This has in- volved an immense amount of labour, but the value of the monument, as an historical work, is thereby increased tenfold. The costumes and arms of the time are given with equal accuracy. Beneath the figures are two tablets inscribed with the names of 80 distin- guished soldiers of the age of Frederick, whose portraits could not be given. The third side bears the names of 16 statesmen, artists, and men of science of the epoch. The fourth or front tablet has the following simple inscrip- tion : — " To Frederick the Great, Frederick William III., 1850 ; completed by Fre- derick William IV., 1851." Above the figures there is at each corner a female figure representing the four cardinal virtues — Prudence, Jus- tice, Fortitude, and Temperance. Be- tween them are bas-reliefs, emblematic of different periods of the monarch's life; by a mixture of the ideal and reality, his birth, his education — civil and mili- tary — and his career before and after he became king, are represented with simplicity and neatness. In the second relief a muse is teaching the young prince history, pointing out to him the names of the commanders he most ad- mired — Alexander, Caesar, and Gustavus Adolphus. In the third. Minerva is giving him the sword. In another an Prussia. ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. STATUES. CHURCHES. 335 historical event is embodied ; it pre- sents the King after his defeat at the battle of Kolin, sitting on a waterpipe, looking earnestly on the ground, on which he is drawing the lines of a plan with his cane. The subject has been so often engraved that it is familiar to every German. In the background of the tablet are allegorical figures of Triumph and Victory, intimating that the defeat was retrieved. The other reliefs exhibit him encouraging the arts of peace ; he is in the hut of a Silesian linen- weaver examining his web ; or playing the flute, on which instrument he was a proficient ; or walking in the gardens of Sans Souci, surrounded by his favourite greyhounds. The last tablet contains his apotheosis. The equestrian statue itself is 17 ft. 3 in. high ; it represents the monarch " in his habit as he lived ;" and, diffi- cult as it must have been to deal with the costume of the period, and impart to it the dignity necessary in a monu- ment, the task has been perfectly ac- complished. Even the queue, to our ideas not only unsightly but unnatural, has been grappled with boldly. An ermine mantle hangs loosely from the monarch's shoulders, although, as he never wore one, Rauch has been blamed for this addition, but excuses himself on the plea that, without it, the figure would have appeared puny and insigni- ficant at such an elevation. In every other detail the figure is true to life. The stick carried by a band from the right wrist, the three-cornered hat, the pistol holsters, and all the accoutre- ments of the horse are minutely copied from the relics preserved of the Great King. On the long bridge leading from the Konigsstrasse to the Schloss Platz is the equestrian statue of the Great Elector Fred. Wm., in bronze, designed by Schliiter, and possessing consider- able merit as a work of art. Opposite the Grand Guardhouse (Haupt-wache) stands the bronze sta- tue of JBlucher, a spirited figure, well executed ; the pedestal is decorated with good bas-reliefs. Facing him, on each side of the Guardhouse, are the marble statues of Generals Billow von Dennewitz and Scharnhorst, the reformer of the Prussian army after the battle of Jena, and the founder of the present military system of Prussia. These three statues are by the sculptor Rauch. The cannon and mortars behind the Guardhouse were brought from Paris, 1816 ; the mortars were cast in France, to be employed in the siege of Cadiz, and are the fellows of the one in St. James's Park. The cannon originally came from Liibeck, and was carried off by the French in 1806. In the square called Wilhelnis Platz, near the Potzdam Gate, are the statues of six heroes of the Seven Years' War, the Prince of Anhalt-Dessau, Generals Ziethen, Schwerin, Winterfeld, Keith, and Seidlitz. They are for the most part of little merit as works of art, and the classical togas and armour in which some of them are dressed out are incongruous and in bad taste. The Churches are not the objects which will attract the most notice in Berlin. In St. Nicholas, a Gothic edifice of different periods, in the old town, is the tomb of Puffendorf, who died here in 1690. He was historio- grapher, privy counsellor, and judge at the court of Frederick William, Elector of Brandenburg. The Cathedral (JDom) between the Palace and the Exchange, built 1747, is ugly in its exterior, and within has hardly the air of a church. It is the burial-place of the Royal Family, and contains the remains of the Great Elector, and of Frederick I., King of Prussia, in gilded coffins. The bronze effigy of the Elector John Cicero, cast by a Burgundian artist, in 1540, — that of the Elector Joachim, made by one Adam Vischer of Nuremburg, — and a mosaic of St. Peter, given by Pope Pius VII. to the late King, on one side of the altar, deserve notice. Contiguous to the Dom, a cloister on the plan of the Campo Santo at Pisa is in the course of construction. It is intended for a royal burial-place, and is to be adorned with frescoes by Cornelius. The two churches in the Gen- darmes Platz are admired for their architecture. The Catholic Church of St. Hedwig is a poor imitation of the 336 ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. THE ROYAL PALACE. Sect. V. Pantheon. The Garnisonkirche is at- tended by the soldiers of the garrison : the music is good. It contains paint- ings by Rhode, of no great merit, and very inappropriate to a church, repre- senting the death of some of the gene- rals of the Seven Years' "War. Against the walls are hung tablets bearing the list of names of those who fell in the war of liberation, 1813-15: a similar memorial will be found in almost every parish church in Prussia, with the simple inscription, " They died for their King and Fatherland." The Church of Friedrichswerder is a modern Gothic structure, designed by Schinkel. It is of brick, and the mouldings, window tracery, cornices, corbels, and other ornaments usually cut out of stone, are of clay moulded and burnt into brick, an important application or revival of the use of that material to the purpose of ornamental architecture. St. Peter's is a fine new Gothic Church. At the Palace gate, on the side of the Lustgarten, stand bronze horses and grooms, imitated from those on the Monte Cavallo, Rome, gifts of the Empr. of Russia. The Berliners have nicknamed them Gehemmter Fort- schritt, and Beforderter Riickschritt. The Royal Palace, or Schloss, is in- debted to its vast size for the marked air of grandeur which its exterior pos- sesses. Within it is sumptuously fur- nished ; the state apartments are shown by the castellan, who lives in the 2nd court on the 2nd floor. In the Ritter- saal ('Knights' Hall), a splendid apart- ment, is the throne and a sideboard covered with massive old plate of gold and silver. In the White Hall, recently fitted up at great cost (120,000^.), and decorated with the statues of the 12 Brandenburg Electors, and 8 alle- gorical figures representing the Prus- sian provinces, the first meeting of the Prussian Parliament was held, April, 1847. The most interesting rooms are those which were inhabited by Frederick the Great, at the corner of the building facing the Schloss Platz, and nearest to the long bridge on the first floor. The best paintings have been removed by the King's permission to the Museum : among those that remain are Charles I. and his Queen Henrietta, by Vandyk — Marriage of St. Catherine, by Giulio Romano — Virtue quitting the Earth, Mars and Venus, by Rubens — Napoleon crossing the Great St. Bernard, by David — and in the "White Hall a portrait of the late King of Prussia, by Sir Thos. Lawrence, a present from Geo. IV. — Queen Vic- toria, by Hayter. There are some good works of the modern German school : Leonore (Burger's), by Lessing ; Jere- miah, Bendeman, &c. In former times, according to vulgar belief, this building was haunted by a ghost called the White Lady, who ap- peared only to announce the death of a member of the royal family. In the attic story of this palace, on the side towards the Lustgarten, is the Kunstkammer (Chamber of Art). Its collections (about to be removed to the New Museum, when it is finished) are well worth seeing ; they are shown on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Friday, from 10-4 in summer, 10-3 in win- ter, by tickets, and as only 30 are issued each day, it is advisable to apply for them early — the day before — to the castellan of the museum. By sending your card to the directors, you will be allowed to join a party without waiting for your turn, which may not be for a fortnight. — J.M. One room is occu- pied by a collection illustrative of the manners and customs of different parts of the world, especially of savage nations ; such are a cloak of feathers, presented by Tamehameha, King of the Sandwich Islands, with a complimentary letter, to the late King of Prussia, in return for which he received the full uniform of the 2nd Regt. of Prussian Guards — a model of a Chinese lady's foot, to show the manner in which they are pinched and contracted — a filligree silver case, like a claw, nearly three inches long, worn by ladies of rank in China to pro- tect their finger-nails, which it is the fashion to let grow to that length — coloured pieces of paper used instead of napkins at dinner — a variety of Chi- nese dresses, among them the military uniform of a captain — a lasso from S. America — a cigar smoked by the ladies of Lima, l£ foot long and thick in pro- Prussia. KOUTE 61. — BERLIN. THE EOYAL TALACE. 337 portion— large disks of wood inserted by the Botocudos Indians in their ears and under- lips — tatooed head of a New Zealander — weapons brought from Africa, by Ehrenberg the traveller — an Australian necklace of human teeth — staves covered with Runic inscrip- tions carved on them, and a Runic almanac cut on 12 tablets of wood — the costumes of Mexico, in a series of coloured wax figures — copies of two of Northcote's pictures, by Chinese native artists, very well executed— a vast assortment of Chinese musical in- struments ; the modern invention of the mouth harmonica was taken from one of them — Japanese weapons : one of the most formidable is a sort of scythe fixed vertically upon the end of a long pole — saddle of the Turkish Pasha of Shumla, strangled for having yielded that fortress to the Russians in 1828. The Asiatic collection was chiefly formed by Kruger. A model of the mines of Freiberg. The head and horns of a stag in the centre of the trunk of a tree, which has grown around them, so that the points of the antlers alone project. The Historical Collection is highly interesting, as illustrating in many in- stances the characters and lives of re- markable men, and it is for the most part imdoubtedly authentic : it con- tains the model of a windmill made by Peter the Great, with his own hands, while working as a ship-^carpenter in Holland. — The Robes of the Orders of the Garter given by George IV. r and of the Holy Ghost given by Louis XYIIL, to the late King of Prussia : between the two is the scarlet dress of a Doctor of Civil Law given to him by the Uni- versity of Oxford, on the occasion of his visit in 1814. The hussar dress and cap, surmounted with a black eagle's wing, worn by the Prussian General Ziethen — two cannon balls, each with one side flattened, are said to have been fired by opposite parties in the siege of Magdeburg, and to have met together in the air ! Some of the relics here preserved are peculiarly national, such as — a cast taken after death from the face of Fre- derick the Great, — the bullet which [N.G.] wounded him in the battle of Rossbach, 1760, — a wax figure of him clothed in the very uniform he wore on the day of his death ; the coat is rusty and tar- nished, the scabbard of the sword is mended with sealing-wax by his own hand ; his books and walking-cane, his baton, and the favourite flute, his solace in hours of relaxation, are carefully preserved here along with his pocket- handkerchief, which he used to the last; it is a dirty rag, very tattered, though patched in many places. This confirms the description of Dr. Moore, who visited the palace in Frederick's lifetime. " The whole wardrobe con- sisted of two blue coats, faced with red, the lining of one a little torn ; two yellow waistcoats, a good deal soiled with Spanish snuff ; three pairs of yel- low breeches, and a suit of blue velvet embroidered with silver, for grand occa- sions. I imagined at first that the man had got a few of the king's old clothes, and kept them here to amuse strangers ; but, upon inquiry, I was assured that what I have mentioned, with two suits of uniform which he has at Sans Souci, form the entire wardrobe of the king of Prussia. Our attendant said he had never known it more complete." Opposite the figure of Frederick is placed a glass-case containing the stars, orders, and decorations presented to Bonaparte by the different sovereigns of Europe, one of the most conspicuous being the Prussian black eagle : Eng- land alone, it appears, contributed none. They were taken by the Prussians after the Battle of Waterloo, in his carnage, from which he escaped so narrowly that he left his hat behind him, which is also preserved here. Not far off are Blucher's orders. A cast in wax from the face of the beautiful queen Louisa of Prussia. A cast of Moreau's face, taken after death. The oamp chair of the great Gustavus Adolphus. Fre- derick the Great's father's collection of well used tobacco pipes. The cap and sword worn by the Great Elector at the battle of Fehrbellin. A white dress that belonged to Murat is so fantastic in shape, and gaudy in gold lace, as fully to explain and justify the nick- name of Franconi, given him by Bona- Q 338 ROUTE 61.— BERLIN. MUSEUM. Sect. V parte. Two executioner's swords, re- markable on account of the persons whose heads have been cut off by them. A rich and elaborately ornamented cabinet, called the Pomeranian Chest, was made at Augsburg, 1617, for Phi- lip II. Duke of Pomerania, and is a mine of art in itself. A great variety of articles made of amber, and many specimens, rough and cut, of this mi- neral, whieh is found in great quantities within the Prussian dominion. Among the works of art in this mu- seum are a head carved in wood, by A. Diirer. A bas-relief of Orpheus and Eurydice, in bronze, by Peter Vischer. An ivory crucifix, attributed to M. Angelo. A large basin with bas-reliefs in ivory. The Descent of the Fallen Angels, an elaborately minute carving of many figures in ivory. The whole Life of Christ minutely carved in wood. A battle piece, by A. Diirer. An ex- tensive collection of carvings and reliefs in ivory, gold and silver plate, cups and vases enriched with bas-reliefs and pre- cious stones. An elephant's tusk carved with hunting scenes, probably a work of the 10th cent., is curious for its anti- qxiity. The old ivories and enamelled reliquaries are very fine. Here are some red cups of Bottcher's original Dresden china-ware, and 2 pale ones with Gothic patterns, very rare spe- cimens. Baron Trench's drinking cup, engraved by him while in prison. Lu- ther's beer jug, very large measure. A very beautiful series of miniature por- traits ; among them Gustavus Adolphus and his daughter Christina. A de- tailed catalogue of the Kunstkammer, drawn up by Kugler, has been printed. The late King's Private Residence, a modest mansion opposite the arsenal, is preserved just as it was left by its former occupant : and in its interior decoration it displays the simplicity and good taste which characterised him. The furniture and decorations are of native manufacture ; the pictures, &c, are the productions of national art and talents. In the principal apartment are very good copies of Baphael's best pictures by Prussian artists. The 3£usewn } facing the Lustgarten. — This very handsome edifice was fi- nished in 1830, from the designs of the distinguished architect Schinkel ; its foundations are laid on many thousand piles, as the spot on which it stands was previously a branch of the Spree, which has been filled up. Before the entrance is a gigantic basin of polished granite 22 feet in di- ameter. The block out of which it was formed was a vast isolated boulder, known as the great Markgrafenstein, and lay at Fiirstenwald, nearly 30 m. from Berlin. It was conveyed thence in a flat-bottomed boat along the Spree to Berlin, and there polished by the aid of a steam engine. At the rt. side of the staircase is a magnificent group in bronze, represent- ing the combat of an Amazon with a tiger by Kiss. On the 1. side is a horse- man contending with a lion, by Ranch. The walls of the noble colonnade, running along the front, have been adorned with frescoes by Cornelius. They were executed under the direc- tion of Cornelius from the somewhat fantastic designs of Schinkel, and are so illustrative of a style of composition frequently displayed in German art, that the explanation of the obscure al- legories which they contain is here given. They profess to illustrate alle- gorically the history of the formation of the universe and the intellectual de- velopment of mankind. On the 1. of the entrance, on ascending the steps, are represented "the sun in his chariot rising from the sea to give light to the world. In the clouds which reflect his glory are the Graces, with the sacred swans of the diety. Lively pictures of hope for the coming day rise out of the morning clouds. A choir of harpers in the clouds announce the rising of the sun. The life of the day is represented by various allegories. The grand and beautiful female who spreads over her- self a mantle, under which several groups of sleepers repose, is the Night. Selene shedding light drives her chariot through the night. Saturn and the Titans withdraw into the gloom of past time. Lastly, Uranus is leading the dance of " the starry host." On the right of the entrance "the spring of Ima- Prussia. ROUTE 61. BERLIN. MUSEUM. 339 gination rises up under the stroke from the hoof of Pegasus. Morning and Spring of Life : — shepherd races in the enjoyment of nature by poetry, and games of strength and activity. Be- ginnings of art in the outlines of shadows. Summer and Midday : — the harvest and its joys. Behind the water- fall from the fountain of poetry, re- sembling a veil, sit the Fates in the lap of the earth ; while everything draws animation and strength from the fountain. Evening and Autumn : — vintage, workshops of artists, and dis- covery of the Corinthian capital. War- riors return home, and Age is delighted by the visit of the Muses. Night and Winter : — the wise man watched by Psyche investigates the course of the stars. The moon descends into the sea. The grey-headed old man is absorbed in considering the elements. The sea- man launches out into the ocean over which the moon sheds its light. The collection which the Museum contains consists of — 1. The Antiqua- rium, on the ground floor. — 2. The Sculpture Gallery, on the 1st floor. — 3. The Picture Gallery, on the upper story. 1. The Antiquarium (Entrance under the bridge at the back of the Museum) consists of — a. Collection of Vases, Bron- zes, fyc. — Admittance, Wed., 10 to 4. The Vases amount in number to 1600. They are exceedingly well classified, according to country and shape, and those bearing designs on the lower side, arranged upon tables of looking- glass. The contents of this portion of the Museum are principally derived from the collections of Bartholdy, Prus. minister at Rome, Baron Koller, Austrian commander at Naples, and from that formerly in the Palace. From its nature it is better calculated to in- terest the antiquarian than the general observer. Among the most remarkable objects in bronze are the following:— An extensive series of Roman Penates, or Household Gods ; Roman arms, armour, spear, back and breast plates, greaves for the legs, and various utensils ; a sacrificial axe, a large circular shield, a small statue of an elephant, of good workmanship. There are numerous articles in terra cotta, and various inscriptions on stone and metal. b. Collection of Gems and Coins. — Admittance, Tues. and Fri., 10 ^o 4. Among the 2814 gems, are many first- rate works, from the collection of Storsch ; a carnelion with the Sevenbefore Thebes ; portrait of Pompey ; young Hercules ; Jupiter, Serapis, and Ceres. c. Mediaeval Collection. — Admittance, Tues. and Fri., 10 to 4, Here are some fine specimens of the painted and glazed earthenware called Majolica, made in the duchy of Urbino in the 15th and 16th cent., and other objects of a higher order of art, also in baked clay painted and glazed. Among these may be noticed— (668, 674, and 675) busts of Pier Soderini, Lorenzo de' Medici, and Machiavelli ; a Virgin and Child, school of Michael Angelo ; and a large altar- piece by Luca della Robbia, a beautiful high relief of clay gilt, representing the Trinity. Other objects deserving of attention are — the golden shrine of St. Patroclus, brought from Soest, of very beautiful workmanship (date 1313?); a richly embossed silver dish of cinque cento work, possibly by Benvenuto Cel- lini ; and some painted glass. There is a catalogue costing 7^ Sgr. 2. The entrance to the Sculpture Gallery is through a grand circular hall extending the whole height of the building, and very imposing from its size and proportions. Around it are antique statues, and in the centre a magnificent malachite vase, a gift of the Emp. Nicholas, while above hang 9 original tapestries worked from the cartoons of Raphael ; they once be- longed to Henry VIII. and were pur- chased on the sale of Charles I.'s effects by the Duke of Alba. The antiquities are principally composed of the collec- tion of Cardinal Polignac. It may be premised that few of them are above mediocrity as works of arts, and that a large part of them are much indebted to modern restorers. There is, how- ever, at least one exception. The Boy praying is one of the finest antique bronze statues in existence ; it was found in the bed of the Tiber (140)— Apollo restraining Hercules from car- rying away the Delphic tripod, a bas- Q2 340 EOUTE 61. BERLIN. PAINTINGS. Sect. V. relief (81).— A Venus (113).— Daughter of Mobe (217).— A "Wrestler (129).— A Bacchante (130). — The procession of Bacchus and Ariadne (146), — Bust of Julius Csesar ; it used to stand on the table of Frederick the Great (295) ; — a hero or Mercury, found at Syra, 1831, the head and arms modern ; — Bust of Pericles (396); — Canova's Hebe — are almost the only others worth notice. 3. The Picture Gallery, on the upper story of the building, is divided into numerous small compartments, by par- titions or screens extending from be- tween the piers of the windows nearly to the opposite walls. The collection is composed of, 1st, a selection from the paintings formerly in the Royal Palaces of Berlin, Sans Souci, and Charlottenburg, which the late king allowed to be removed to the Prussian National Gallery. They are marked in the Catalogue K. S. The Giustiniani collection (marked G. S.), from Venice, and the pictures of Mr. Solly, an English merchant (marked S. S.), both of which have been pur- chased by the Government. The Berlin Gallery ranks below the Galleries of Munich and Dresden in works of first-rate excellence, but it has good specimens of a great number of masters, especially of the early German and Italian schools. For those who are desirous . of studying the history and progress of the art, from the By- zantine schools, through those of Flo- rence and Sienna, to its period of ex- cellence, and thence to trace its gradual decay, there can be no better oppor- tunity than is here afforded them. The Director "Waagen has prepared an admirable catalogue, with a short introduction to explain the origin and character of each school. His arrange- ment, combining the chronological or- der with the classification according to schools, is very good. The 1st divi- sion contains the Italian, French, and Spanish schools ; the 2nd, the Dutch, Flemish and German. The gallery is divided into 37 ca- binets or compartments, each distin- guished by a number over the entrance. In the 4th cabinet, on the 1. of the entrance, begin the Italian schools ; on the one next to it, *. e. the 5th from the entrance, begin the Flemish schools. These two cabinets therefore may be considered as points of departure. If the spectator continue on to the 1. he will pass in succession through the cabinets devoted to Flemish art, com- mencing with the Van Eycks and end- ing with the followers of Rembrandt and Rubens; if he take an opposite direction, to the rt., he will find in regular order the works of the schools of Venice, Lom- bardy, Pome, Bologna, &c. The gallery is by no means deficient in fine works of the great Italian mas- ters, but it is particularly rich in the Flemish and Dutch schools. Among the pictures which appear most deserving of attention are the following : — Italian School. — Andrea Mantegna ; 28, Angels weeping over Christ. Titian ; 166 a, portrait of his daughter Lavinia. Corregio ; 218, Leda and the Swan. 216 ; Io and the Cloud, a repetition of that at Vienna, but inferior to it, as the flesh seems to have faded, and the shadows to have become black. These 2 pictures formed the gems of the gallery of the Pegent Duke of Orleans; his son, from prudish motives, cut out the heads of Io and Leda, and burnt them, and cut the picture of Leda to pieces ; luckily they were preserved, and pur- chased by Frederick the Great for Sans Souci. The existing heads are insertions ; that of Io was painted by Prudhon, a French artist. The Leda was most injuriously retouched by the French, who removed the picture to Paris, but has been recently restored to its original condition, and a new head painted for it by a German artist. Pinturicchio ; 133, the Adoration of the Magi. There is an interesting altar- piece by Raphael's father, Giovanni Santi. 139, the little child with folded arms, opposite to St. John, is supposed to represent Raphael at the age of 3 years. Raphael ; 243, Virgin and Child, called Madonna di Casa Colonna ; in his best manner. Another Holy Family, with the Adoration of Magi, called Ma- donna Ancajani, from a family of that name at Spoleto, its former owners, is the largest picture by Raphael in Ger- many, after the San Sisto at Dresden ; Prussia. ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. PAINTINGS. 341 but unluckily it is half destroyed ; in many places the colour is so far gone as to show the outline and contour of the figure, and the various layers of colour- ing in proportion as they are worn away. Instead of retouching the de- fective parts, by which the original composition would have been entirely obliterated, a finished copy has been made by a skilful artist, to give an idea of what the picture was when perfect. (The original, 150 a, in the 3rd divi- vision, is in a side room, of which the door is locked, but the attendant of the gallery will open it on application.) Fra Bartolomeo ; 249, the Assumption of the Virgin. Francesco Francia; 122, the Virgin in Glory worshipped by 6 Saints. Giacomo Francia; 287, the Virgin and Child, with St. John the Baptist. The Magdalen, S. Agnes, S. Dominic, and S. Francis. Sabbattini da Bologna ; 335, the Virgin on a throne with 3 Saints, Ludovico Caracci; 371, Christ feeding the 5000. Guido Rem; 373, the Hermits Paul and Anthony discoursing. Spanish School. — Murillo ; 414 a, St. Anthony of Padua embracing the Infant Christ. Michael Angelo Caravaggio ; 359, Christ in the Garden. Sassoferrato ; 419, Joseph and the Infant Christ. Carlo Dolce ; 423, St. John the Evangelist. Luca Giordano ; 441, the Judgment of Paris. French School. — Nicolas Poussin : 463, Landscape, with the story of Juno and Argus. 467, the Education of Jupiter. Lesueur ; 466, St. Bruno. Flemish and Dutch Schools, — John and Hubert Van Eyck ; 1 2 paintings which formed the side wings or shutters of the famous altar-piece known as "The Worship of the spotless Lamb," in the Ch. of St. Bavon, at Ghent, where the central portion still remains. (See p. 129.) They are decidedly the finest works which the Berlin Museum pos- sesses. They represent, 512, the Just Judges ; the man on the white horse is the painter Hubert Van Eyck ; the figure in black, looking round, is his brother John. 513, The Soldiers of Christ : here are introduced portraits of Charlemagne and St. Lewis. 514, Angels singing and playing. 515, The Holy Hermits. 516, The Holy Pilgrims. At the back of the above 6 pictures are painted the 6 follow- ing. (Once every day the shutters are reversed by the guardians of the museum ; so that those which were exposed in the morning are turned to the wall in the afternoon, and visitors have an opportunity of seeing both.) — 517, John the Baptist. 518, Portrait of Jodocus Vyts, Burgomaster of Ghent, for whom the picture was painted ; the expression of piety and devotion in the countenance is most truthfully depicted. 519 and 520, The Annunciation, the Angel Gabriel, and the Virgin. 521, Elizabeth, wife of Jodocus Vyts. 522, St. John the Evangelist. These ad- mirable pictures were finished 1432. — Roger v. d. Weyde. 534, The Cruci- fixion : nothing can exceed the softness and minute finish of the female faces, while the expression of grief in the Virgin and Magdalen is most true to nature. — Hans Memling, a series of paintings obtained from a convent in Mechlin. 535 a, The Birth of Christ.— The Sibyl of Tibur announcing the Birth of Christ to Augustus.— The 3 Kings adoring the Saviour. 533 b, Elijah fed by Angels. 539, Memling, a Jewish family eating the Passover. — Quentin Matsys ; 561, Virgin and Child. Lucas Cranach ; 593, The Fountain of youth. 619, portrait of Melancthon. 618, portrait of Luther, with musta- chios, as the Junker (Squire) George, taken while he was concealed in the castle of the Wartburg : interesting. — Christopher Amberger ; 583, portrait of the geographer Sebastian Munster. — - Hans Holbein ; 586, portrait of George Gyzen, a merchant of London. Rubens ; 763, The Daughter of the painter. — 783, The Resurrection of Lazarus. — 781, St. Cecilia.— 758, Helena Forman, his 2nd wife. — Van Dyk ; 782, portrait of Prince Thomas of Carignan. 786, portrait of a Daughter of Charles I. in. a blue dress, with a white lace apron, beautifully painted. Had Sir Joshua known this picture the Blue Boy of Gainsborough need not have been, painted. 799, St. John Baptist and St. John Evangelist. 787, The Three 342 ROUTE 61. BERLIN. NEW MUSEUM. Sect. V. Penitent Sinners, the Magdalen, the Prodigal Son, and King David, before the Virgin and Child. — 790, portraits of the Children of Charles I. with a Dog. — Teniers ; 856, Peasants in an Alehouse. 859, The Temptation of St. Anthony, a very humorous picture : there is a great deal of whim and drol- lery in the devils. Under the figure of the Saint, Teniers has portrayed him- self; the younger woman is his wife, with a little hit of a devil's tail peeping from under her gown ; the old woman was his mother-in-law, a more decided devil, with horns and. claws. — Rem- brandt ; 802, portrait of Duke Adolph of Gueldres, shaking his clinched fist at his father; a master-piece of the artist ; a powerful representation of uncurbed passion. — Jacob Ruisdael ; 884, a sea-piece, with Amsterdam in the distance. — Jan Both ; 868, a landscape with a hunting party. — Be Heem ; 149, a flower and fruit piece. — Francis Snyders ; 974, a bear hunt. — Balthazar Denner ; 1014 a, a portrait of a man, elaborately executed, was purchased for 10,000 dollars (about 1500/.). The third division of the gallery is occupied with works of the earliest period of art, which may be regarded as the antiquities of painting , and are interesting, almost exclusively in an historical point of view, as illustrating the progress of the art. They consist of Byzantine, Italian, and early German and Flemish works. In the rear of the Museum, and con- nected with it by a covered bridge car- ried over the street upon columns, is the New Museum, designed by Stiller. The exterior is not very remarkable, but no one should omit seeing the interior. The ground floor contains ethnological antiquities, in rooms whose architecture accords with the objects they contain. Barbarous German An- tiquities, celts, arrow-heads, arms, &c, and a large bronze idol of the Sun, found at Kolin, which is pro- bably rather Slavonic than Teutonic. A- catalogue is much wanted. — F. S. Here are placed the collection of Egyptian antiquities, formerly in the Palace of Moubijou. These rooms are decorated with faithful imitations of genuine ex- amples of Egyptian decoration, copied on the spot. The collection was formed by M. Passalacqua and General Minutoli, and is one of the most curious in Europe. To this have been added the acquisitions made by Lepsius, in Egypt. An actual temple removed from Philoe has been set up here, the parts wanting being restored. The pillars are coloured as at first, and within are statues of gods and kings, Rhamses, &c. Three tombs also from the pyramids, brought away by Lepsius, have been rebuilt. It is lamentable to know that the latest additions made to this collec- tion by the Prussian expedition in Egypt were, procured by the most ruth- less and wanton defacement of the monuments remaining in that country, unworthy of European savans, and such as even the barbarous Arabs had re- frained from perpetrating. In addition to mummies, scarabsei, statues of Apis, coins, &c, which may be found in other cabinets, there exists here a col- lection of arms, implements used in various arts, utensils of all sorts, &c, highly illustrative of the whole house- hold economy of the Egyptian nation, as it existed some thousand years ago, all in such perfect preservation as to give a wonderful insight into the state of arts and habits, condition and civili- zation of the Egyptians at that remote period. Specimens of the produce of a great many trades are here to be seen. Gar- ments nearly as fine as muslin ; a pair of braces ! said, by ChampoEion, to have belonged to an Egyptian monarch ; san- dals ; a medicine chest filled with drugs, in alabaster phials, is also supposed to have belonged to a king. By the side of the figures of the various Egyptian deities are placed the symbols belonging to each, worn, it is supposed, as amulets on the person. Among them is a beetle, with the head of a sphinx. An assortment of the vari- ous kinds of cloth and linen found upon the mummies shows great perfection in the art of spinning and weaving. The objects for the decoration of the person include mirrors of brass, pins of brass and ivory, necklaces, one of which Prussia, r. 61. — Berlin, new museum, royal library. 343 was borrowed by the Duchess of Berry to wear at a Parisian fancy ball. Spe- cimens are shown of the various balsams and asphaltum used in embalming. It is a curious fact that mummies are now imported into Europe for the use of apothecaries and painters, on account of the bitumen they contain. The instru- ments used in embalming, the Ethi- opian knives of sharpened flint, and the brass hooks with which the brain was extracted through the nostrils, are per- haps peculiar to this collection. It would be tedious to give more than a slight enumeration of other objects, such as arms, spears, bows, and arrows, &c. ; a plough ; a spindle ; distaff, and comb for flax ; measures of rope and wood divided by knots or notches ; a painter's palette and paint-box with sliding lid. 7 different colours are preserved here. Herodotus mentions only 4. Part are placed in small shells, as. is the modem practice. Writing materials ; archi- tect's apparatus ; dice ; weights ; san- dals, and shoes of leather and palm- leaves ; fishing-nets, with floats formed of calabashes ; musical instruments ; the flute and sistrum ; mummies of the sacred animals worshipped by the Egyptians, as cats, fish, serpents, young crocodiles, frogs, ibises, lizards, all em- balmed and wrapped in cloths ; a human monster, without brain or spine, em- balmed. It has been described by Geof- frey St. Hilaire. Perhaps the most curious objects in the whole collection are the contents of the tomb of an Egyptian high priest, discovered and opened by Passalacqua in the Necropo- lis of Thebes. The body was enclosed in a triple coffin. By the side of it were deposited the sacred wand or priest's rod, the skull and leg-bones of an ox, branches of sycamore, and 2 models of Egyptian vessels (such as navigated the Nile 3000 years ago), neatly finished and completely rigged, having on board a dead body, and a party of mourners accompanying it to the tomb. " Broad stairs lead in a single flight from the ground floor to a lofty hall in the middle of the building. Here the pupils of Kaulbach, Echler, and Muhr, have painted after his designs. 1. The Destruction of Babel. 2. Ages of Greece. 3. Siege of Jerusalem, and on the E. side, 4. Battle of the Huns. 5. Crusades. 6. Reformation. A new method of painting in water-colours, called Stereo -chromic or Wasserglass- Malerei, has been tried. The wall is first saturated with ' "Wasserglass,' a solution of silica or flint in alkali ; on this ground the painting is , executed with ordinary water-colours; when finished it is again varnished with the same preparation, which forms, as it dries, a thin transparent coating — a true glass, capable, it is said, of resist- ing the action of acids. The paintings which are finished have somewhat the appearance of china painting." — R. The rooms on the first floor contain a valu- able and extensive collection of casts of works of sculpture from the earliest Greek down to Thorwaldsen, all beauti- fully arranged. One half of the upper floor is devoted to the cabinet of Drav:- ings and Engravings, including several designs for cartoons of Raphael, the original sketch for the Dom of Cologne. The other half will be set apart for the works of art composing the Kunstkam- mer, at present in the Royal Palace. The principal staircase is to be de- corated with a series of colossal statues and frescoes — the latter by Kaulbach. It has a magnificent timber roof. The Royal Library (entrance in the Opern - Platz), a tasteless building, which owes its shape, it is said, to a whim of Frederick the Great, who desired the architect to take a chest of drawers for his model, contains about 500,000 vols, and nearly 5000 MSS. It is shown to strangers on application to the Librarian, "Wed. and Sat., 9 — 12. Among its curiosities are — Lu- ther's Hebrew Bible, the copy from which he made his translation, with marginal notes in his own hand. The MS. of his translation of the Psalms, with his corrections in red ink. The Bible and Prayer-book which Charles I. carried to the scaffold, and gave be- fore his death to Bishop Juxon : Gu- temberg's Bible of 42 lines in a page (on parchment, date 1450-55), the first book on which moveable type was used. A consular diptych of ivory with re- liefs, date 416, one of the earliest 344 R. 61. BERLIN. PUBLIC READING-ROOM. ARSENAL. Sect. V. known. The Codex Wittekindii, a MS. of the 4 gospels, given, it is said, by Charlemagne to Wittekind (?) ; it is of the 9th or 10th cent., and the ivory carvings in the binding are in the style called Byzantine. Several Ivories (drp- tychs) of the earliest Christian times, and of Eoman work. An album, with 6 beautiful miniature portraits, by Luke Cranach ; among them are his friends Luther, Melancthon, and the Elector John Frederick of Saxony. 36 vols of engraved portraits of distinguished men of various times and countries, accom- panied by autographs in alphabetical order. Two hemispheres of metal, with which Otto Guericke made the experi- ments which led him to discover the air-pump, are also preserved here. When he had exhausted the air be- tween them, he found that the force of 30 horses was unable to separate them. The Public Reading-room of the Li- brary, where books may be consulted, is open daily. Inhabitants of Berlin, and even resident strangers properly recom- mended, are allowed to take books home with them under certain restric- tions. There is a private reading-room on the ground-floor, in which the new books and principal journals of Europe are deposited. Admission can be ob- tained by a ticket from one of the head librarians, which is only given to per- sons known to them. It is open daily from 10 to 12. The University (Unt. den Linden) established in 1 809, possesses a high re- putation from the talent of its teachers and a better system of discipline than Jena and Heidelberg. It ranks among the first academical establishments in Germany, especially as a medical school, and is the most numerously attended (after that of Vienna), the students amounting to 1500. The Museum of Natural History is within the 1. wing of the building. The Zoological Collection is open Tuesdays and Fridays from 12 to 2 ; tickets are given out the day previous by the Di- rector of the Museum. This collection is one of the richest and most extensive in Europe, especially in the department of Ornithology ; it includes the birds collected by Pallas and Wildenow, and the fishes of Bloch. The best specimens are those from Mexico, the Red Sea, and the Cape. The whole is exceedingly well arranged and named for the convenience of students. The Minerals are shown at the same hours, by tickets given by the director who resides in the house. Among the curiosities of this collection are — a piece of amber weighing 13 lbs. 15 oz., the largest known, and worth 10,000 dols. It was found at Schlappacken, 20 Germ, m. from the Baltic. Malachite from Russia. Topazes of 2 distinct colours, yellow and amethystine. A mass of platina, weighing 1088 grains, and a splendid fiery opal, both brought from South America by Alex, von Humboldt. A large portion of the collections made by him during his travels in America and Asia are deposited here. The Anatomical Museum in the rt. wing will be highly appreciated by the medical student — it is one of the best in Europe, particularly rich in prepara- tions of human and comparative ana- tomy. It is shown Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 4 till 6 in summer — 2 to 4 in winter, by tickets. The Botanic Garden, belonging to the University, outside of the town, is de- scribed p. 348. The Arsenal (Zeughaus), esteemed a building of almost faultless architecture, was erected in 1695. Above the win- dows round the inner court are 22 masks, admirably carved in stone by Schliiter, representing the human face in the agonies of death. On the ground- floor are cannon and artillery of various kinds, such as 2 leather guns, used by the Great Gustavus in the 30 years' war; a field-piece named die schone Ta\ibe (beautiful dove) ; a damasked cannon ; 2 Turkish pieces. On the first floor are ranged 100,000 stand of arms. These apartments form a kind of Military Mu- seum. Specimens of the arms and ac- coutrements used in every army in Emope are deposited here. There are fire-arms, from those used at the first invention of gunpowder to the most perfect made in the present day. Many ancient weapons and suits of armour — one suit belonged to Francis I. ; 7 bunches of the keys of captured for- Prussia. ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. PALACES. 345 tresses — some taken from the French. A standard, and the key of Adrianople, taken from the Turks hy the Russians in the last war, and presented by their emperor. Against the walls and pil- lars are hung nearly 1000 stand of colours, chiefly French, and bearing the dates and emblems of the Revolution. They were captured by the Prussians in Paris, 1815. In consequence of the plunder of the arsenal during the riots of March, 1848, some of the interesting objects formerly to be seen here may be missing. Admission by tickets, which may be had of the Commandant opposite the Zeughaus, and which the valet de place will procure. The Palace of Prince Karl, 9, "Wil- helms-Platz, fitted up by Schinkel, contains a very choice and valuable col- lection of armour. A shield of beaten silver, with raised groups in the style of B. Cellini, and the Kaiserstuhl, an arm- chair of bronze, from the Dom in Goslar, deserve mention. The Palace of Prince Albert, 102, "Wilhelms Strasse, also arranged by Schinkel, is a handsome building, and it is shown to strangers. The Palace of Prinz Wilhelm of Prus- sia, brother to the king and heir pre- sumptive, Unter den Linden, close to the library, contains some elegant apart- ments. Count RaczynsMs Gallery, in a new mansion on the Exercier-Platz, outside the Brandenburg Gate, eontains inter- esting specimens of modern German art — the finished Sketch of Kaulbach's Battle of the Huns ; a Sposalizio, by Ooerbeck; Sohn's Two Leonoras; Leopold Robert's last work, &c. ; Cornelius's Christ in Limbo. Also fine specimens of Bellini, Francia, Luini, Steinle, Ben- deman, and Fuhrich. The adjoining house of Cornelius con- tains his studio, where may be seen the cartoons for some of the frescoes for the intended Campo Santo. Consul Wagner, 5, Bruder-str., has a very fine collection of paintings of modern German schools, which he readily allows to be seen. The Iron Foundry (Eisengiesserei), outside of the Oranienburg-gate, where the well known black cast-iron orna- ments are made, was much damaged by Republican violence during the at- tempted revolution of 1848. A great variety of articles, as busts, statues, bas-reliefs, copies of pictures, monu- mental slabs, joists, beams, and rafters for houses, and even bells, are cast here. At the time when the final struggle commenced between Prussia and Na- poleon, the patriotism of the Prussian ladies was particularly conspicuous. "With the noblest generosity they sent their jewels and trinkets to the royal treasury to assist in furnishing funds for the expense of the campaign . Rings, crosses, and other ornaments of cast iron, made in this manufactory, were given in return to all those who had made this sacrifice. They bore the in- scription " Ich gab Gold um Eisen" (I gave gold for iron), and such Spartan jewels are, at this day, much treasured by the possessors and their families. The black varnish with which the iron ware is covered, to prevent rust, is made of amber dissolved, and linseed oil mixed with lamp black. The China Manufactory was founded by Frederick the Great : the painting is very good, but the porcelain is rather thick and heavy. The quality of the clay is not good, but great pains are taken to purify it by passing it through a number of vats. The Taub-Stummen-Institut, Institu- tion for instructing the deaf and dumb, situated in the Linien Strasse, Nos. 81 and 82, is a very interesting establish- ment. The Academy of Fine Arts, Unter den Linden, was placed by Frederick the Great above the Royal Stables ; hence some one proposed to inscribe over the door " Musis et Mulis." An exhibi- tion of modern works takes place here annually between September and De- cember. The Gevcerbe Schule, School for Trade, is an establishment of a kind only re- cently introduced into Great Britain. It is a school for instructing gratuitously promising young artisans in drawing, modelling, and other branches of the fine arts calculated to be of practical use in their trade, with a view of im- proving the designs of articles of furni- q3 346 ROUTE 61. BERLIN. ACADEMIES. THEATRES. Sect. V. ture and patterns in stuffs of all sorts, and the lite. The Architectural Academy (Bau- schule) S. of the Schlossbriicke, esta- blished under the direction of Schinkel, is one of the most original constructions of that gifted architect, now no more. It is of red brick, and the external or- naments are of the same material, i. e., of terra cotta, or clay moulded and baked. "Within may be seen some paintings and sculpture, also by Schin- kel. The Studios of some of the Berlin artists deserve to be visited, particularly those of the sculptors Rauch and Tieck in the Lager Haus, and the painter Kxiiger. The house of Cornelius is out- side the Brandenburg gates, and near to it is the House for Painters' studios, or workshops. Theatres. — 1. Italian Opera House, rebuilt 1845, after a fire, is a building of great splendour near the Linden. In it German and Italian operas, the na- tional drama, and tragedy and comedy, are performed, generally 3 or 4 times a week alternately with the Schauspiel- haus, though in winter the Opera is open every day. It holds 2000 spectators. The Box-office of the Opera House is not in that building, but in the lower story of the Schauspielhaus, where tickets are given out for both theatres. Opera be- gins at 65. 2. New Play House (Schauspielhaus) built by Schinkel, in 1819, lies between the two chinches in the Gens d'Armes Platz. It is decorated with a good deal of sculpture, by Bauch and Tieck, re- presenting mythological subjects. The performances consist of German and French plays alternately : an excellent French company resides here perma- nently. " It is a great treat to see a Greek tragedy, such as the Antigone of Sophocles, performed here, the stage and theatre being fitted up as nearly as possible in the ancient Grecian classic style." — Be S. The stage is on the second floor of the building, so that it is necessary to go up stairs even into the pit. Adjoining it is the Concert Room, holding 1200 persons, much admired for its architectural proportions and the taste of its decorations. Besides Con- certs, a certain number of Subscription Balls take place here in winter. The king and royal family are often present. Begins at 6. 3. Konigstadter Theater, in the Al- exanderplatz. Begins at 6. The Sing Academie (see § 42) is a private association of from 200 to 300 amateurs, male and female, of the re- spectable and upper classes, who meet together to practise every week during the whole year, and give annually several delightful concerts, to which the public are admitted, in the tasteful Grecian building of the Academy, designed by Ottmar, behind the Grand Guard- house. The performance of sacred vocal music is probably not carried to greater perfection in any part of Europe — the strength of the chorus, and the perfect precision and unity of so many voices is very striking. This institu- tion has been imitated in the Exeter Hall Association in London. In the new quarter of the town, ris- ing on the S. side of Berlin and ap- proached by the Kopnickerstrasse, is Bethanien (Bethany), acastellatededifi.ee erected 1850, and devoted to the chari- table purposes of an hospital for the sick, who are attended by Deaconesses, ' ' charitably-minded Christian maidens." Both the architectural and economical arrangement of this institution are on the most liberal scale, and it well merits notice. The Coliseum, Arte Jacobsstrasse, Xo. 51, is a very handsome ball-room, designed principally for the Bourgeoisie to dance in, but often visited by the upper classes as lookers on. The Winter Gardens are coffee-houses under glass — conservatories filled with exotic plants, provided with tables for refreshments, and newspapers. They are splendid and popular establishments, where excellent dinners, music, kc, are provided. The best, KrolTs in the Thiergarten, was burned down 1850. The ices are good. There is a table d'hote on Sundays, at 15 Sgr. a head. Restaurateurs, where dinner and sup- per are served a la carte. The best are Mielentz's (formerly Jagor's), Xo. 28, and Meinhardt's, or Cafe Royal (very superior cuisine), Xo. 33, Unter Prussia. route 61. — Berlin, railroads' termini. 347 den Linden. (Meinhardt's is now an hotel, with an excellent table d'hote.) Tietz, 25, U. de Linden. Stagge (Cafe Belvedere), near the Catholic Ch. Cafe de la Gaite, Charlotten Strasse, 60. The tables d'hote at Berlin being dear, many- natives as well as travellers resort to the restaurateurs. Peculiar delicacies of the Berlin cuisine are the Sandra, or pike-perch, a very delicate fresh-water fish, Teltower Ruben (very small and sweet turnips, resembling parsnips in shape, from Teltow, a neighbouring village). 3 or 4 is the fashionable hour of dinner in Berlin. The Merchant's Club is over the Ex- change, to which a banker will intro- duce you to read the papers. An introduction from the English minis- ter will procure admission to the Club of Nobles. Newspapers of all coun- tries may be seen at the Zeitungs Halle Oberwall Strasse, No. 12 and 13. The Confectioners' shops (Condito- reien), corresponding nearly with the cafes of Paris, supplying ice, coffee, newspapers, &c, become the general lounge and resort about 1 or 2 o'clock, it being a usual practice here to take a cup of chocolate in the middle of the day. The best are Steheiys, 36, Char- lotten Strasse, behind the Schauspiel- haus, where French, German, and Eng- lish journals, including the" Times end Galignani, are taken in. Josti, 1. Stechbahn (good bon bons) ; — Krans- ler, 25, U. d. Linden (capital ice) ; Fuchs, 8, IT. d. Linden, superbly fitted up by Schinkel and Stiller ; Spargna- pani, U. d. Linden, 50 ; Koblank, 44. The lower classes resort to the wine and beer-houses (Bierlokale), which, in splendour, may vie with the gin palaces of London, and are nearly as much crowded, and as injurious to public health and morals. The best are (where men sup after the theatre), — for Berlin "Weissbier, Volpi, Stechbahn, 3, and Mohren Strasse, 37 a. ; Klausing, Zim- mer Strasse, 80; — for Bavarian beer, Happold, Griin Strasse, 1; Wallmiiller, Jagcr Strasse, 33. "The porters of Berlin are a pe- culiar race, celebrated all over Ger- many. They are called ' Eckensteher,' from their habit of collecting at the corners (Ecken) of the streets (like their Highland brethren in Edinburgh). They have a badge on their arm, and are readily known by their original humour. They bandy sharp words, in their peculiar Berlin dialect, with great effect. Nante Strumpf, the Sam Weller of Berlin, has been made the representative of this class." — Howitt. The best shops are in the Unter den Linden, Schloss Platz, Breite Strasse, in the Bauschule, and between the Schloss and the Opera House, Konigs Strasse, and Behren Strasse Among the articles peculiar to Berlin, and best worth purchasing, are the trinkets, ornaments, busts, bas-reliefs, &c, of cast-iron ; the pictures in transparent China (Lithophanies). Gropius Bazaar, Georgen Strasse, No. 12, isworth avisit. Pistor and Martins, the best makers of philosophical instruments, 34, Mauer Strasse, sell admirable microscopes. Schropp, map-seller, 24, Jager Strasse, publishes good maps, a geological map of Europe, a chart of the moon, and many others of great excellence and use to travellers. Railroads' Termini — to Potsdam, Magdeburg, and Hanover, outside the Potsdam Gate ; — to Leipzig and Dres- den, outside the Anhalt Gate ; — to Hamburg, outside the New Gate ; — to Stettin, outside the Oranienbiu-g Gate ; — to Frankfurt on the Oder and Breslau, near the Stralauer Platzw Schnellposts to Danzig, Konigsberg, Posen, Eostock. The office (Melde- zimmer, § 33, 46), in the inner court of the Post-office, Konigs St., No. 60, and Spandauer St., 19 — 22, is open from 7 a. m. to 8 P. M. Environs. — The gates of the city were originally named after the places to which they led, but the great lines of high roads have been so much changed, that it is not now the Halle Gate, but the Potsdam Gate, which leads to Halle, nor the Hamburg Gate which leads thither, but the Branden- burg Gate ; and to proceed into Silesia you issue out of the Frankfurt, not the Silesian Gate. At Tegel, 7 m. beyond the Oranien- burg Gate, is the seat of the late Wm. von Humboldt. In the garden is a 348 ROUTE 61. BERLIN. CHARLOTTENBURG. Sect. V. monument to his wife, a statue of Hope upon a pillar, the work of Thorwdldsen. In the churchyard outside of the Ora- nienburg Gate, are buried Fichte, Hegel, and Schinkel. About 1 4 mile • outside of the Potz- dam Gate, near the village of Schone- berg, is the Botanic Garden, The conservatories and palmhouses are on a large scale. Palms are seen growing in them to a height of nearly 30 ft. It is open to the public on Friday. Strangers may obtain admission at other times. Outside the Halle Gate, which termi- nates on the S. the avenue of the Fried- richs Strasse, a street 3 m. long, in the Belle- Alliance-Platz, rises the Friedens Denkmal, a pillar of granite, surmounted by Victory, by Bauch, erected 1840, to commemorate the Peace which had then lasted 25 years. About \ a mile beyond the Halle Gate is a low sandhill called the Kreutz- berg, almost the only eminence near Berlin, and commanding a tolerable view of it. It is named from a Gothic Cross of cast iron, 160 ft. high, upon its summit, called Volks Denkmal (People's Monument), erected by the late king, as a memorial of Prussia's recovery of independence from the French, and thus inscribed : " The King to his peo- ple, who at his call nobly offered life and property to their country ; a monu- ment to the fallen; an acknowledgment to the living ; an example to posterity." Schinkel designed it, and Bauch and Tieck executed the statues of Prus- sian warriors in the niches, and the bas-reliefs representing the principal victories gained by the Prussians — as Gross- Gorschen, Leipzig, Katzbach, Paris, Belle Alliance. The whole was cast in the Eoyal Iron Foundry. In the Invaliden-Kirchhof, close to the Hamburg Railway terminus, are the graves of Scharnhorst, Tauentzien, Pirch, "Witzleben and many other brave Prussian soldiers who fell in the .war with France. A Corinthian pillar sur- mounted by an eagle, has been set up in the Invalids' Garden, as a monument to the soldiers whose names are in- scribed on its base, who fell in defend- ing the city and their sovereign from the lawless revolutionary rioters of 1848 and 1849. Immediately beyond the Branden- burg Gate commences the Park (Thier- garten), an extensive plantation, inter- spersed with flower beds, with open spaces here and there, and ponds, coffee-houses, &c, among them, and dull, except when thronged with people on a fine Sunday afternoon. A statue of the late king was erected in Aug., 1849, near the Louisen Insel, — a site which that prince converted from a wilderness into a park. About 1 m. beyond the Brandenburg Gate is the royal palace of Bellevue, containing many paintings by modern German artists, such as — Zessing, Hussite Ser- mons ; — Kohler, David's Triumph; — Begas, Death of Abel ; — Sohn, Bape of Hylas ; — Hasenpflug, the Erfurth and Magdeburg Cathedrals ; — Hermann, Chateau of Stettin ; — Catel, Boman Pfifferari ; — Fridler, Amphitheatre at Pola ; — Schmidt, Hallstadt in the Salz- kammergut, &c. &c. Half an hour's drive beyond the Brandenburg Gate, behind the Hofjagers, is the Zoological Garden, containing the Boyal Mena- gerie, once the Pfauen Insel. It re- sembles that in the Begent's Park. It is open daily ; admission 5 Sgr. N.B. " Man hiite sich vor Taschendieben " — beware of pick-pockets ! Two excursions should on no account be omitted — one to Charlottenburg, which will not take more than 3 hours — the other to Potsdam, about 19 m. Bail- road trains go thither 6 times a-day. Bte. 62. Excursion to Charlottenburg. — The road thither, about 3 m. long, passes through the Brandenburg Gate, and forms a long straight avenue through the Thiergarten, bordered, as it ap- proaches Chaiiottenbiu'g, by many country houses of the citizens. Charlottenburg itself is a small village on the Spree, made up chiefly of villas and taverns, the summer resi- dence of the rich, and the summer re- sort of the humbler classes from Berlin. The Palace (Schloss) " was built by Frederick I., who married an English princess, Sophia Charlotte, daughter of George I., which will account for the Prussia. ROUTE 62. — BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG. 349 English aspect of its interior. Many rooms are furnished with taste and magnificence. Here are several good pieces of sculpture, as a head of our Sa- viour by Rauch." — Ld. F. The Gar- dens behind it are exceedingly pretty, and are at all times open to the public. The entrance to them is through the Orangery, at the extremity of which is the Theatre, where the Berlin com- pany performs generally twice a- week, in summer. The gardens are the great resort of Sunday strollers from Berlin. They are prettily laid out, varied by the windings of the Spree, and by sheets of water, abounding in carp of large size and great age. Visitors are in the habit of feeding them with crumbs, and collect them together by the ringing of a bell, at the sound of which the fish may be seen in shoals, popping their noses out of the water. The object of greatest interest at Charlottenburg is the monument of Louisa Queen of Prussia^ the most beautiful and amiable, and at the same time unfortunate princess of her day. She is buried within a small Doric Temple at the extremity of a shady walk, in a retired part of the garden. The Castellan residing in the palace keeps the key, and will show the mo- nument to strangers. It is allowed to be the master-piece of the sculptor, Eauch. The figure of the queen re- poses on a marble sarcophagus. It is a form and face of the most exquisite beauty, but, at the same time, a most perfect resemblance. " The expression is not that of dull cold death, but of undisturbed repose. The hands are modestly folded on the breast ; the atti- tude is easy, graceful, and natural. Only the countenance and part of the neck are bare, the rest of the figure is shrouded in an ample and extremely well-wrought drapery. The great charm of the figure is the decent, sim- ple, tranquil air, without any striving after effect. I observed no inscription — no pompous catalogue of her titles — no parading eulogy of her virtues ; the Prussian eagle alone, at the foot of the sarcophagus, announces that she be- longed to the house of Hohenzollern, and the 7 withered garlands which still hang above her, were the first offerings of her children at the grave of their mother." — Russell. The late king is buried here by the side of his queen. A recumbent statue of him " with his martial cloak around him," by Rauch, is placed beside that of his queen. On either side is a white marble candela- brum, that with the Fates by Rauch, that with the Three Muses by Tieck. In the course of the autumn, gene- rally in September, a Grand Review of the garrison takes place in the neigh- bourhood of Berlin ; 20,000 troops are sometimes collected, and the ma- noeuvres last several days. " To see the reviews to advantage a uniform is desirable, though not absolutely neces- sary. A good horse warranted to stand fire may be hired for a louis a day ; with these you may ride on the ground and join the staff, which sometimes amounts to 500 officers of all nations. The reviews are generally held on the ground near the Kreutzberg. The field manoeuvres usually take place between Charlottenburg, Spandau, and Potsdam. They last several days, the regiments bivouacking at night. The operations begin each day about 9. Ladies in carriages are enabled to see the whole by the good arrangement of the gendarmerie. A carriage with a pair of horses may be hired for the day at 5 thalers (15s.)."— T. R. S. ROUTE 62. BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG, BY POTSDAM AND BRANDENBURG. — RAILWAY. 18^ Pruss. m. = 85| Eng. m. Trains to Potsdam six times a day, in 45 minutes. To Magdeburg 3 trains daily in 4| hours ; Terminus (Bahnhof) outside the Potsdam Gate. The line proceeds past country-seats, taverns, and coffee- houses, the resort of the citizens, leaving on the rt. the Botanic Gardens and village of Schoncberg, in sight of the Iron cross on the Kreutzberg on the 1. to 2 Zehlendorf Stat. — Beyond this the road passes through a wood of firs. About 2 m. before reaching Potsdam, on the rt., is the Peacock Island, (Pfauen-Insel), surrounded by the 350 ROUTE 62. POTSDAM. CHURCHES. Sect. V. Havel. It was a favourite summer retreat of the late king of Prussia, originally a rabbit-warren, but con- verted into pleasure-grounds. The scenery of the lake itself is picturesque, more especially when contrasted with the monotonous sandy plains round Berlin. The Peacock Island has faEen into neglect since the death of the late king. 3£ Potsdam Stat. — Inns : Einsiedler (Hermit) ; Deutsches Haus (German House) ; Goldner Adler. There is a good Restaurant at the Bahnhof. The hotels have greatly fallen off. M. Scholtz is recommended as a good guide to Potsdam and its neighbour- hood, being honest and well informed. He is to be heard of at the Einsiedler. Potsdam, the Prussian Versailles, lies on the rt. bank of the Havel, which here expands into a lake with finely wooded, picturesque, sloping banks ; it has 40,000 inhab., including a large garrison. Founded by the Great Elec- tor of Brandenburg, it became the re- sidence of the Prussian Princes during the rising fortunes of the Royal house, but it owes all its splendour to Fre- derick the Great. It may be called a town of palaces, not only from the 4 Royal residences in and about it, but because even the private houses are copied from celebrated edifices, each of which may comprise within it the dwellings of many families. The dull- ness of the streets, indeed, often con- trasts singularly with the splendour of their architecture. The 4 Palaces (that in the town, Sans Souci, the Neue Palais, and Charlottenhof ) can be seen in 3 hours, by taking a drosky and com- missionaire from the railway station. The principal buildings are — The Garnison Kirche (Ch. of the Garrison). Frederick the Great is buried beneath the pulpit, in a plain metal sarcophagus above ground. His sword, originally laid upon it, was carried off by Napoleon, and all traces of it are lost ; but over the tomb, on each side of the pulpit, now hang the eagles and standards taken from Napoleon's armies by the Prussians ; a fitting retribution, and as it were an atonement, to the shade of the hero for this paltry theft. The other coffin of marble, in the same vault, is that of William I. Around the walls of the church, tablets inscribed with the names of the brave soldiers who distinguished themselves, and pe- rished during the war of Liberation, are suspended. The Mew Ch. or Nicholaikirche, op- posite the Schloss, built, 1830-37, by Schinkel, is of the Corinthian order, surmounted by a dome. The fronton of the portico, and the soffit of the chief door, are ornamented with bas- reliefs of the Resurrection and Sermon on the Mount, but the outside is not- very successful. The interior is splen- did, decorated with fresco paintings "on a gold ground, of the 12 Apostles, &c, by the first artists of Berlin and Dusseldorf. The ornamental cornices, the capitals of the columns, the pulpit, and the balustrades, are of zinc, which is cheaper, because more easily cast than iron, and strong enough. Close to the long bridge which leads from the stat. into the town is the Lust- garten, and contiguous to it the Resi- denz or Royal Palace, built 1660- 1701. It contains little worth seeing, except the apartments of the Great Fre- derick, which remain nearly as they were when he was alive. Here are shown his writing-table blotted all over with ink, his inkstand, music-stand, piano, with music composed by himself in his own writing, green eye-shade, book-case filled with French works, and the chairs and sofa which he used, their silken covers nearly torn off by the claws of his dogs, and stained with the marks of the plates from which they were fed. The truck bed on which he slept, despising any more comfortable couch, stood behind the silver balus- trades, but has been removed because it was worn out, and almost pulled to pieces by relic-hunters. Adjoining the bed-room is a small cabinet with double doors provided with a table which as- cends and descends through a trap-door in the floor, while plates and dishes were removed by another trap- door. Here the monarch could dine tete-a-tete with a friend, •without being overheard or overlooked, while the dinner was served without requiring the presence of a Prussia. ROUTE 62. — POTSDAM. SANS SOUCI. 351 servant. The singular smoking club, or Tabacks-Collegium, established by Frederick the Great's father, used to hold its eccentric and boisterous meet- ings in the building called Haus am Bassin. Potsdam is the birthplace of the late king of Prussia, Frederick William III., to whom a statue by Kiss has been set up in the Wilhelmsplatz, and of the distinguished traveller and philosopher Alexander von Humboldt. The view from the Brauhausberg should not be passed over ; it includes Potsdam and all its numerous palaces, the intricate windings of the Havel, and the beautiful green islands which it encircles — a very pleasing prospect. Sans Souci. — The Gardens begin a few hundred yards outside of the Bran- denburg Gate, W. of Potsdam. The entrance is about 2 an hour's walk from the stat. and near it a Ch. in the style of a Basilica, partly copied from that of Murano near Venice, has been built from the plans of Persius. The gardens are laid out in the stiff formal French taste, with alleys, cut hedges, statues, basins, &c, and have lately been put into perfect order. A broad avenue runs through them ; at the extremity of it lies the New Palace. Near to Potsdam, and on the rt. of the avenue is the Palace of Sans Souci, b. 1745-47, by Frederick the Great, on the top of a flight of step-like terraces. They are fronted with glass, beneath which grow vines, olives, and orange-trees. Fre- derick, who took much pride in his gardens and hot-beds, complained once to the Prince de Ligne of the climate and soil under which his orange-trees and vines were pining. " Sire," re- plied the courtier, "it appears that with you nothing thrives but your laurels." The Palace, restored and fitted up as a residence for the present King, but without altering its original character, stands on the highest terrace ; it is a low, and not a handsome building, but the colonnade behind is fine. At the extremities of this terrace are the graves of Frederick's favourite dogs, and of his horse that carried him through many of his battles. By his will he directed that he himself should be buried among them, an injunction which was not complied with. This spot was the favourite resort of the old warrior ; here he was brought out in his arm- chair, surrounded by his dogs, a short while before his decease, to bask in the sun. " Je serai bientot plus pres de lui," were nearly his last words. With- in the building may be seen his bed- room where he breathed his last ; a clock, which he always wound up with his own hand, but which, being for- gotten at last, stopped at the moment of his death, and still points to the hour of his decease, 20 minutes past 2. A portrait of Gustavus Adolphus hangs on the wall, its sole ornament ; the bed and arm-chair of Frederick have been removed. Voltaire's apartment is also pointed out at some distance from that of his Boyal host ; its walls are co- vered with figures, which are pictorial epigrams on Voltaire's character or habits ; e. g. a monkey, meant as a portrait ; parrots from his volubility ; stork, from his migrations, coming in summer, quitting in winter. In the gallery hang some paintings by Watteau. On the rt. and 1. of the palace, but in separate buildings, are the state apartments and the Picture Gallery ; but as all the best pictures are removed to Berlin, much time need not be wasted upon it. Among those that remain is one tolerable picture, a Vir- gin and Child, by Bubens, and there are many by his pupils and imitators, Van Tulden and the like, of inferior merit and value. Frederick the Great was not satisfied with his reputation as a general ; he must be considered a man of taste, and a judge and patron of art ; and as he knew nothing about it, and still would possess a picture gallery, he was most egregiously cheated and imposed upon by the agents and picture dealers whom he employed; paying enormous sums for worthless pictures, and re- jecting others of very high merit. Thus a painting of Lot and his Daugh- ters, sold to him for 30,000 ducats, as a Raphael of the highest excellence, turns out to be the work of a second- rate Flemish master, Floris, and worth not more than 50/. He rejected the 352 ROUTE 62. — POTSDAM. WINDMILL. Seet. V. Holbein now in the Dresden Gallery, which is esteemed the best work of that master. The famous Windmill of Sans Souci stands close behind the palace, and still belongs to the decendants of the miller who refused to yield it up to Frederick, when he wanted to puU it down and include the ground in his own gardens, which are rather confined on that side. " The original mill was a very small one ; but after Frederick lost the law- suit against the miller, he erected for him the present one on a much larger Scale." Some years ago adverse cir- cumstances compelled the owner of the mill to make up his mind to part with it. He in consequence offered it for sale to the late king, who, instead of availing himself of the opportunity, generously settled on the miller a sum sufficient to extricate him from his difficulties, and enable him to maintain himself in his property ; saying that the mill now belonged to Prussian his- tory, and was in a manner a national monument. The broad walk, before mentioned, leads from the foot of the terraces of Sans Souci to the New Palace (Neue Palais), about 2 m. from Pqtsdam, a vast brick building erected at enormous cost by Frederick, by way of bravado, at the end of the Seven Years' War, to show his enemies that his finances were not exhausted. It was built in six years, between 1763 and 1769, on a spot pre- viously a morass. It contains 72 apart- ments, and exhibits many remains of gaudy magnificence ; marble has been most profusely lavished on the walls and floors ; and one large apartment is lined entirely with shells and minerals, in very bad taste. There are still some tolerable paintings by Schneyders, and one or two very excellent Luca Giordanos. In the small library is a copy of the works of Frederick the Great, " Des CEuvres Melees du Philosophe de Sans Souci. Avec privilege d'Apollon." This copy is a curiosity, as it contains many notes in the hand-writing of Vol- taire, some of them severe and cutting- criticisms. Thus, finding the word plat in three or four consecutive lines of the same poem, he writes " Yoici plus de plats que dans un tres bon souper." At another place he writes, " S'il faut conserver cette epigramme, il faut la tourner tout autrement." He points out a piece of false grammar thus, " On ne dit pas louer a." The remarks, however, are not all in this cutting tone, and in other parts the margin is plentifully sprinkled with " admirable," " rien de mieux ;" while at the end of one of Frederick's letters is written, " Que d' esprit ! de grace, d' imagination ! qu'il est doux de vivre aux pieds d'un tel horn me ! " The offices for servants, contained in the building called Communs, facing; the New Palace, are now converted into barracks for the trained infantry — a draft from every regiment in the Prus- sian service — who are instructed and replaced every year by fresh corps, the old ones being distributed through the army to introduce uniformity in the drill and regulations. In the building called the Antique Temple, close to the New Palace, is a statue of the late Queen of Prussia. It is an improvement on that at Char- lottenburg, the result of 15 years' thought and study on the part of the sculptor, Rauch : it is even more beautiful and touching. It is no larger than life, and represents her asleep. Sans Souci. Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday the Waterworks play. The main fountain rises in a jet 130 feet high. The Gardens abound in temples, pa- godas, &c. The view from the Chinese tower on the height is extensive and pleasing. "Within, the gardens of Sans Souci stands Charlottenhof, a villa built by the present king, when crown prince, in the style of a Pompeian dwelling ; following as nearly as possible the arrangement and dimensions of the houses of Pompeii. It exhibits the utmost taste and elegance. In the beautiful garden is an exact imitation of a Pompeian bath, built for use as well as ornament, and beautifully deco- rated with frescoes. The fountains, an antique altar, and several statues and bronze, were brought from Hercula- neum or Pompeii. Prussia. ROUTE 62.— BRANDENBURG. 353 N. of Potsdam lies still another pa- lace, called the Marble Palace, from the extensive use of marble in its decora- tions, upon which, however, it is not worth while to waste much time. More deserving of notice is the Russian Colony, or village, situated nearly in the same direction. It consists of 11 houses, built entirely after the Russian fashion, and given by the late king, with a piece of land, to a party of Russians sent hither by the emperor. The little Chapel belonging to the colony, sur- mounted by three bulb -shaped domes, like those of the Kremlin, is beautifully fitted up, and adapted to the Greek church service, with paintings, silk curtains, and silver plate. On quitting Potsdam the railroad cross the Havel, leaving the palace and gardens of Sans Souci on the right. Werder Stat. A small town in a lake formed by the Havel. Gross- Kreutz Stat. 4. Brandenburg Stat. — Inns : H. de Brandenburg ; Schwarzer Adler ; Weisser Schwan ; Goldner Engel ; Re- staurateur at the Station. A town of 15,600 inhab. on the Havel, the quarter called the Burg, in which the Cathedral stands, being on an island in the river. It is the seat of considerable commerce. The Dom. The crypt is probably of the 10th century, the nave of the 10th, and the rest was built about 1318. It was restored in 1836 by Schinkel. At the principal entrance are reliefs satir- ising the monks, such as a fox preach- ing to a congregation of geese. The interior is ornamented with antique statues and paintings representing S.S. Magdalen, Benedict, Bernard, and Ur- sula, with the Fathers of the Church of the year 1518, in the style of Mat. Griinewald. Here are the tombs of 3 Episcopal Margraves. In the choir is a richly carved altar with figures of the Virgin, St. Peter, and St. Paul (1518). In the crypt is the old bishop's throne. In the chamber of antiquities adjoining the Ch. is a model of the Marienkirche, a very curious monument of Byzantine architecture of the 12th century, de- stroyed in 1722. In a second chamber are some curious relics once held in great veneration here, e. g. a stud from the bedstead of the Virgin ; the manger out of which Joseph's ass fed in the flight into Egypt ; the pocket of David's sling ; the head of Goliath's staff and his purse, &c. The Ch. of St. Katherine, built 1401, and of brick, but richly decorated ex- ternally, contains a brass font adorned with many figures, by F. Morner, 1440, and several curious monuments. St. Gotthard's Ch., b. 1324, contains a font of the 12th century. The Rathhaus is a fine Gothic monu- ment, and several of the town gates deserve notice, In the market-place is a Rolandsaule 18 ft. high. 1^ Wusterwitz Stat. On the lake of Plauen, which is connected with the Elbe by a canal. The rail runs near the canal on its S. side. 2 1 Genthin Stat. Inn, Goldene Stern. Gusen Stat. 3^ Burg. Stat. Inns kept by Roland and Schroeder. A busy and flourishing town of 11,000 inhabs., }th of whom arc engaged in the manufacture of cloth, established here originally by French Protestant emigrants. Hohenwarte Stat. 3| Magdeburg Stat. Rte. 66. The Elbe spreads itself out, and forms several islands, which are crossed in coming from Berlin : on one of them stands the citadel. ROUTE 63. BERLIN TO LEIPZIG. — RAILWAY. 29 Prus. m. =137 Eng. m. Trains in 6| hours. Terminus outside the Anhalt gate. On quitting Berlin the Kreutzberg is passed on the left, soon after the tower of Teltow rises on the right. 2 A Gross- Beeren Stat, The Church, with its seven turrets, is seen on the left. An Obelisk, ornamented with a cross, commemorates the victory of Aug. 23, 1813, gained here by the Prussians under Billow, over the French under Oudinot. Ludwigsfelde Stat. 2 (rt.) Trebbin Stat., a town of 1400 inhab. 354 ROUTE 63. WEINTRAUBE. LUTHER'S HOUSE. Sect. V. 2 (1.) Luckenwalde Stat., a town of 5000 inhab,, on the Nuthe, famed for its manufacture of broad clotb. (1.) In a wood, near the convent of Zinna, the monk Tetzel was waylaid and robbed of the money he had ob- tained by selling indulgences. If (1.) Jiiterbog Stat. — Inn, Post. This ancient Wendic town of 5000 inhab. is 1 m. from the railroad. In the Ch. of St. Nicholas is preserved the Indulgence-box (Ablasskasten) of Tetzel, Luther's antagonist, who was waylaid by a robber knight, Hans von Hacke, as he was returning with it filled with gold, the produce of the pardons he had sold. Tetzel had pre- viously granted the knight an indem- nity for any sins he might commit. "It is a large wooden coffer, hooped with iron, having a slit on the top ; and from the figure which it makes in the history of the Keformation, is an object of curiosity." — Ld. F. The Railroad to Dresden (Rte. 65) turns off here. A little beyond Jiitterbog, on the 1., is Dennewitz, another battle-field where the Prussians under Biilow were successful, Sept. 6, 1813, against the French, under Key and Oudinot. 10,000 French were taken prisoners, and Berlin saved from falling into their hands. A monument of the battle has been erected near Nieder-Gorsdorf. 2 j (1.) Zahna Stat. l| Wittenberg Station affords sleeping accommodation and capital veal cutlets to regale hungry passen- gers. Wittenberg (Fnns : Weintraube and Stadt London) is a fortified town on the rt. bank of the Elbe, 7000 in- hab., dirty and ill paved. 3 or 4 hours will suffice to see it. It has been termed the Protestant Mecca. It was the cradle of the Reformation, since it was in this place that Luther openly engaged in opposition to the Church of Pome, and denounced its evil practices and abuses. He was professor of theo- logy and philosophy at the once famous University (founded here by the Elector of Saxony, now removed and incorpo- rated with that of Halle), which it will be remembered is mentioned by Shak- speare as the school where Hamlet studied. Luther and his friend Me- lancthon are both buried in the Schloss Kirche ; two tablets of bronze inserted in the pavement mark their graves. Here are also the tombs of Frederick the Wise and John the Steadfast, Elec- tors of Saxony, the friends of Luther and of the Reformation. The monu- ment of Frederick is a fine work of art, by Peter Vischer ; his bronze statue is full of life, and of a noble character, while the Gothic work of the niche in which it is placed also deserves notice. Here is a coronation of the Virgin, also by P. Vischer. Against the doors of this church (burnt by the French, re- placed by others of metal), Luther hung up his 95 theses or arguments condemn- ing the doctrine of papal indulgences, which he offered, after the fashion of the times, to defend against all comers. Luther's house or lodging in the old University Bundings, formed out of the ancient Augustine Convent, where he lived after his marriage, still remains almost unaltered. In it are kept his chair and table at which he wrote, the jug from which he drank, his stove made according to his own directions with peculiar devices, his professor's chair, 2 portraits of him by Cranach, and a very curious cast of his face after death. Over one door is the auto- graph, in chalk, of Peter the Great, now covered with glass to protect it. These two places are shown by the same person who lives near the Post, and are at opposite ends of the town. In the way between are pointed out the houses of Cranach and Melancthon, and at the Elster Gate, immediately beyond the house of Luther, is the Oak Tree planted on the site of that under which Luther burnt the Papal Bull, Dec. 10, 1520. In the Market Place in the middle of the town, beneath a Gothic canopy of cast iron, is a bronze statue of Luther, by ScJiadow, erected 1822 : on one side of the pedestal are the lines " Ist's Gottes Werk, so wird's bestehen, Ist's Menschenwerk, wird's untcr£e- hen." (If it be the work of God, it will en- dure ; if of Man, it will perish.) Prussia. ROUTE 63.— WITTENBERG. DESSAU 355 On another — " Eine fcstc Burg ist unser Gott." Close to this is the Rathhaus, which is shown by a man who is to he found at the door. It contains portraits of Luther and Melancthon, with their contemporary professors, by Cranach, who was burgomaster here ; also a singular picture painted by him 1516, illustrative of the 10 commandments, according to the old division ; — also an original portrait of Gustavus Adol- phus, his sword, which he left as a present after a visit to the sights of Wittenberg, and among other relics and curiosities illustrating the history of the Reformation, the top of Luther's sacramental cup, and his rosary which he carried when a monk. In the Stadt Kirclie, close at hand, is the bronze font by Herman Yischer, 1457, at which Luther and Melancthon baptized. Here also (though not from the existing pulpit) Luther preached. " Here are two curious pictures by Cran- ach : — 1 . The altar-piece representing the 4 sacraments ; the Lord's Supper, in which the painter himself appears as a servant ; Baptism, in which Melanc- thon officiates ; Preaching, in which Luther addresses a congregation of which the two foremost figures are his wife and son ; Penance, administered by Bugenhagen. 2. In one of the aisles a painting represents the Vineyard of the Lord as misused by the Pope and his followers, and well cultivated by the Reformers."— W. S. "Wittenberg has suffered severely from sieges. In 1760, the chief public buildings and one-third of the town were destroyed by the Austrian bom- bardment. It was taken by the Prus- sians under Tauentzien, from the French, by storm, in 1814, after a siege of ten months, during which the sub- urbs were laid in ruins. The railway, proceeding along the rt. bank of the Elbe, enters the terri- tory of Anhalt-Bernberg. 1^ Kosswig or Coswig Stat. An old town of 2800 inhab., on the rt. bank of the Elbe, well placed, but behind it is a sandy desert. [3 m. from this, on the opposite bank of the Elbe, is Worlitz, (Inn, Eichencranz,) the Prince of Anhalt Dessau's summer residence, famed for its Gardens, or Park as it is termed, which are among the finest in Germany, and though in a flat, are worth a visit. The great beauty of the trees, many fine speci- mens of American oaks, and the good keeping of the place, are remarkable. They may be reached from Coswig by a ferry, 1 m. below the town. The gardens are separated from the Elbe by a high embankment which is ren- dered ornamental by plantations, and commands a good view ; their great feature is a fine lake, from which streamlets and canals are conducted to all parts : temples, bridges, and other buildings, are profusely scattered through the grounds. The Neumark garden occupies 3 islands. In Schoch's garden is a Gothic house, containing paintings by old German masters, L. Cranach, &c, a bas-relief carved in wood by A. Diirer, some old ar- mour, and other curiosities. In order to visit Worlitz the railway should be left at Kosswig, and a car- riage hired as far as Dessau, another railroad stat. (or vice versa if the tra- veller is going to Berlin). Oranien- baum, a ducal palace, may be seen be- tween Worlitz and Dessau.] 2|Roslau Stat. A town of 1000 inhab., at the junction of the Rossla with the Elbe. Here is a ruined Castle of the princes of Anhalt-Kothcn. The railway is next earned over the Elbe by a bridge of 721 feet long, approached by several smaller bridges, and shortly afterwards it crosses the Mulde. f Dessau Station, outside the Akcn gate. Dessau, capital of the dukedom of Anhalt-Dessau, is a town of 12,000 inhab., on the left bank of the Mulde, which enters the Elbe a little below it, (Inns : Beutel ; Ring ; Hirsch.) Owing to a conflagration which consumed the town (1467), it has no ancient build- ings. The Ducal Palace is the prin- cipal edifice ; it was built 1748, and contains a Library, in which arc many MSS. of Luther, a cabinet of curiosi- ties, jewels, antiques, &c. ; and a Pic- ture Gallery, including a painting 356 ROUTE 63. — KOTHEN. HALLE. Sect. V. which calls itself a Raphael, but with- out just claim. In the Schloss Kirche, a building of the 16th cent., is a celebrated Last Supper by Cranach, who introduced into it portraits of the chief agents and promoters of the Reformation. Here the ducal family are buried. Moses Mendelssohn was born at Dessau. The vicinity of Dessau, originally a sandy waste, has been converted into gardens, which form its chief orna- ment : these are called Georgengarten, Loaisium, and Sieglizerberg : but more remarkable by far are those of Worlitz, 7 m. from Dessau ; see above. Kothen, or Cothen, is a central station on the railroad, where the lines from Berlin, Magdeburg (Rte. 64), Bernburg and Leipsig meet. Trains are here changed, and a halt of half an hour takes place in conse- quence. The station-house, built by the Duke of Anhalt-Kothen, includes a refresh- ment room, where a good dinner may be obtained, and a Gaming-house, where passengers may lose their time and cash during the balf-hour they are compelled to wait here. This establishment, so discreditable to the ducal founder, has been built expressly since the completion of the railway. Kothen is a town of 6000 inhab. [Inns : Grosser Gasthof ; Prinz von Preussen), and residence of the Duke of Anhalt-Kothen. [A branch railway runs from Kothen to Bernburg on the Saale, a distance of 2f Pruss. m., done in £ hr. The Stations are 1£ Biensdorf, 1~ Bernburg (Inn : Goldne Kugel) capital of the duchy of Anhalt-Bernburg, with 7000 inhab., on the river Saale. The Schloss stands on the summit of a height rising precipitously from the Saale ; its oldest part is a keep tower called Eulenspiegel, more than 120 ft. high ; the rest of the edifice was erected in the 15th and 17th centuries. It is now the residence of the Erbprinz, and contains a collection of family portraits. The Marienkirche was founded in the 10th cent., but re- paired internally in 1811 ; above the choir are statues of 8 princes of the house of Anhalt. St. Nicholas, in the new town, is also an old church. A coach twice a day thence to Quedlin- burg.] The line to Leipzig leaves, a little on the 1., the old Wendic town of Zorbig, near to 2| Stumsdorf Stat. ; and on approach- ing Halle, passes, on the rt., the ruined castle Giebichenstein, once a state prison of the emperors of Germany, out of which the Landgrave Louis of Thurin- gia, imprisoned by the Empr. Henry IV., escaped by leaping from a win- dow. 2i Halle Stat. — Inns: Englischer Hof ; Stadt Zurich ; Kronprinz ; all good : Railway Hotel (zur Eisenbahn). A town of 27,000 inhab., on the Saale, principally remarkable for its Univer- sity, founded in 1694-, by Frederick I. of Prussia, to which that of "Witten- berg was transferred in 1815. The average number of students at present is 750, It is especially renowned as a school of Protestant theology. Its professors, Tholuck and Gesenius (lately dead), rank as the 2 most eminent Hebrew scholars of the age. The hand- some University building, outside the town, was built 1834. Near it is the new Zuchthaus (Penitentiary). Halle is an antiquated town, possess- ing several curious architectural monu- ments, among them the Red Toicer, standing isolated in the market-place, and not far from it The Marktkirche, an elegant Go- thic building, completed 1554, flanked by 4 towers, 2 of which, joined by a bridge, are inhabited by the custos. It contains a remarkable picture by Lucas Cranach, turning on a pivot, and opening with 4 shutters : the chief subjects are the Annunciation, and the Madonna and Child on the crescent, surrounded by angels, with the Cardl. Albert of Brandenburg (for whom it was painted, 1528) in the corner, and a back ground of landscape. The wings or shutters bearing figures of saints. [Apply to the Kuster, who lives in the house next the ch., to open this picture.] The altar-piece (the Sennon on the Mount) is by Hubner, an artist of the Diisseldorf school. The Marriage of St. Catherine is likewise by Cranach. Prussia. ROUTE 63. — HALLE. LEIPZIG. 357 High, up against the triforium is a co- loured medallion head, probably of terra cotta, of Luther, inscribed " Sanc- tus Doctor M. Lutherus, Propheta Germanise, " &c. The MoriUhirche, in the lower part of the town, near the Salt "Works (built 1156, choir 1388, restored 1840), a small but fine Gothic church, elabo- rately vaulted, with stone pendants de- scending from the roof, has a very remarkable altar-piece of carved work, 20 feet high, in the style of the Cus- todias of Israel von Meckenen, date 1488. The centre opens and discloses niches, each filled with a bas-relief from our Lord's Passion, painted and gilt. On the outside are 10 paintings of the "Westphalian school, also on shutters. The pulpit is of sandstone, elaborately carved in the style of a later period (1588) 'and gilt. The stem bears the representation of Sin, Death, and the Devil (the Temptation of Eve) ; the other carvings are scriptural subjects from the Creation to the Crucifixion. In the Residenz, once palace of the Archbishop, occurred the humiliation of the unfortunate Philip Landgrave of Hesse, who was here obliged to throw himself at the feet of the Emp. Charles V., after the defeat of the Pro- testants at Muhlberg, 1547. The Orphan House (Waisenhaus), in the suburb of Glauca, called from its founder (1698), who was a clergyman and professor of Halle, Franke's Institut, is a liberal and munificent establish- ment. It embraces also schools for the education of children of both sexes, and of various stations, though chiefly of the poorer classes, to the number of 2220 ; a Laboratory, where medicines are prepared and distributed, and a Printing Office for Bibles, which are sold at a low price. Franke began without funds of his own, with no resource but a reliance on Providence. The building is now ornamented with an admirable Statue in bronze of the Founder, by Ranch, raised to his me- mory by a public subscription, to which the late King of Prussia largely contri- buted. The name Halle (Greek a\s ?) is derived from the Salt Springs, which have been known from veiy remote times. The labourers employed in them are a peculiar and distinct race, called Halloren, supposed to be the descend- ants of the Wends, who anciently peo- pled this country. They are said still to preserve the physiognomy, customs, and even costume of their ancestors. Some of the springs rise within the town, and are boiled there, but the Eoyal Salt Works (Salinen) are situated without the walls on an island in the Saale. The brine is pumped up by a steam-engine, and is conveyed to them in pipes ; it is strong enough to be fit at once for boiling ; the fuel used is the brown coal, which abounds in this neighbourhood. The annual produce is 220,000 cwt. of salt, valued at 125,000 dollars ; it forms almost the sole article of commerce, excepting porcelain earth, found near Halle, and used in the China works at Berlin. Outside the walls, on the E., is an elegant monument to the soldiery who died here of the wounds received in the battle of Leipzig, 1813. The old castle of Moritsburg was reduced to a ruin during the Thirty Years' war. Carding thistles and carraways are largely cultivated in this neighbour- hood : it also furnishes the greater portion of what are called Leipzig Larks, which are caught by the Hal- loren, and sent to Leipzig as dainties for the table. Railway to Weissenfels, Weimar, and Eisenach (Route 86). An interesting excursion may be made from Halle to Krollwitz, and Giebichenstein (see p. 356). 2i Schkeuditz Stat. Ascending the valley of the Elster, we pass (1.) the battle-field of Breiten- feld, where Gustavus Adolphus defeated Tilly, 1631. On the highest ground upon the field, 2 m. from the Railway (1.), is a monument surrounded by 8 fir trees. Mockern, close to the line (rt.), distinguished by its ch. spire, was a fiercely contested point during the battle of Leipzig, between the troops of York and Marmont, until Blucher drove back the French. If Leipzig. (Rte 86.) Terminus between the suburbs of Halle and 358 routes 64 — 66. Sect. V. Grimma, close to that of the Dresden Railway. EOUTE 64. MAGDEBURG TO LEIPZIG BY KoTHEN. — RAILROAD. 15| German m. = 73 English m. Trains 3 times a day, in 3j hours. Terminus in Magdeburg, at the Fiirstenwall, close to the Elbe bridge. Magdeburg is described at p. 365. The train, on quitting the fortifica- tions, passes near the celebrated Fort Sternschanze, p, 365. 2 Schoneck Stat. There are considerable salt works here and at Gross-Salza on the right. (1.) Gnadau is a Moravian colony. The most considerable work on this line is the bridge, 1370 ft. long, resting on 30 piers, by which the railroad is carried over the river Saale near Grizena. 1| Saale Stat., situated 1 m. below Kalbe, an old town of 4000 inhab. rt. The towers of Bernburg (p. 356 are just visible from the railroad. (1. Aken, a Prussian town of 3200 inhab., near the Elbe, is seen before reach- ing 2^ Kdthen Station, where the lines to Berlin and Leipzig meet (see Rte. 63), and where the train stops half an hour, p. 356. Leipzig Station. (Rte. 86.) ROUTE 65. BERLIN TO DRESDEN. — RAILWAY. 25| Germ. in. = 117 Eng. m. Trains twice a day each way, morn- ing and afternoon, in 6 hours. As far as 8^ Juterbog is described in Rte. 63. From Juterbog the railway (lOf Germ, m.) runs W. of the old post road, pass- ing by (1.) Herzberg and (rt.) Muhl- berg (see Rte. 87), and falls into the Leipzig and Dresden railway, opposite to Riesa. See, for the railroad thence to 65 Germ. m. Dresden, and descrip- tion of Dresden, Rte. 87. ROUTE 66. OVER, BRUNSWICK, AND MAGDEBURG. — RAILWAY. To Minden, 35 Germ. m. — Hanover 43^." — Brunswick, 53. — Magdeburg, 66f. — Berlin, 86| = 403 Eng. m. Trains in about 22 hours. The Station is in Deutz, on the op- posite side of the river to Cologne. There is a steam ferry below the bridge of boats, opposite to the station. i Muhlheim Stat. 1^ Kiippersteg Stat. 1 Lengelfeld Stat. 1 Benrath Stat. 1 Dusseldorf Stat. See R. 34, p. 234. 1 Kalkum Stat. \ m. from Kaisers- werth, p. 233, and not far from Schloss Heltorf, p. 235. 1 Grossenbaum Stat. 3 Duisburg Stat. See Rte. 34. After leaving Duisburg," the line, which has hitherto run in nearly a N. direction, turns to the E., and crosses the river Ruhr, about half-way between Duisburg and 1 Oberhausen Stat. There are ex- tensive coalfields on the banks of the Ruhr, and about 4 m. S. of this station lies Muhlheim on the Ruhr, an indus- trious town of 6400 inhab., where steam engines are made. It is con- nected with the main line by a branch railroad. 1 Berge-Vorbeck Stat. 1 Essen Stat. The town, 2~ m. from the Railway (Frischens and Brockhofs Inns), is not seen from the line. In its handsome Minster hang a huge bronze 7 -armed chandelier, gift of Mechtildis, sister of the Emperor Otto III., 998. Chimneys rise on all sides. After leav- ing this, until the next station but one is reached, the line passes over a rich coalfield, in working which many steam engines are employed. 1 Gelsenkirchen Stat. 1 Herne-Bochum Stat. 1 Kastrop Stat. 1 Mengede Stat. 1 Dortmund Stat. Inn, Romischer Kaiser, 6500 inhab. This ancient city was once a free city, and seat of the Vehme. Charlemagne had a villa here. Prussia. COLOGNE TO BERLIN. 359 In the Bahnhof itself was the place of meeting of the most celebrated of all the tribunals held in the district of the " Red earth." Under j the two lime- trees still growing on the W. side of the station, the naked sword of justice and the willow- wythe were laid upon a stone table before the assembled judges. In the Marienkirche and in the Domini- can Ch. are some curious paintings by native artists, V. and H. Dunwege (1521-23). Dortmund is now a place of considerable manufacturing industry. Here the Railway W. from Elberfeld and the Duchy of Berg joins the Minden line. (See Rte. 67, p. 368.) The railroad then passes through the extremely fertile district called the Hellweg, which is the northern part of the Grafschaft Mark. 2 Kamen Stat. [A little to the S. of this lies Unna. — Inn, Konig von Preus- sen. Between this town and the station are the very extensive salt works, sup- plied by brine springs, and the newly opened baths of Konigsborn. Here was the head-quarters of the Vehmgericht (see p. 368). ] 2 Hamm Stat. Here branch Rail- ways turn off N. to Munster (see Rte. 69), and E. to Paderborn and Cassel (Rte. 68). Hamm on the Lippe is the principal town of the Grafschaft Mark, and has 3700 inhab., 3 Protestant churches and 1 Catholic. Across the Lippe. 3 Beckum Stat. 1 Oelde Stat. 1 Rheda Stat. The Ems, which falls into the sea at Emden, is crossed. 1 Gutersloh Stat. — Inn, Rioter's. His Westphalian hams, and the spirit ex- tracted from wacholder berries, called steenhager, are celebrated. The best Westphalian hams are to be had at Giitersloh, and cost about 4 groschen a-pound. The black bread (pumper- nickel) is also famous. 2 Brackwede Stat. 1 Bielefeld Stat. — Inns: Deutsches Haus ; Ravensberger Hof. The centre of the "Westphalian linen trade ; a town of 6000 inhab. On a neighbouring hill rises the round tower of the Castle Sparcnberg, erected 1545 and fortified according to A. Durer's system, on the site of an older Guelphic fortress. This fine old castle is turned into a prison. The surrounding country of the Teuto- burger Wald and the walks around the town are pretty. A coach goes hence to Pyrmont daily in summer. There is a good road to Detmold from Bielefeld, 3 G. m. It is supposed that Hermann (Ar- minius) fought the great battle against the Romans (Clades Varana) some- where on the banks of the Senne : and the numerous tumuli on its banks, with the urns and other funeral remains found in and about them, confirm the belief. (See Rte. 68 and 69 a.) Near Brake a Viaduct 1200 ft. long is crossed. 2 Herford Stat. — Inns: Preussischer Hof; Stadt Berlin. On the Werre, a small stream ; 6700 inhab. The Abbey, called Monchkirche, of great antiquity, as well as some other old buildings, de- serves the artist's attention. At Engers, 5 m. to the E., is shown the tomb of Wittekind, chief of the Saxons. This now obscure village was the seat of the government of Wittekind, the most for- midable opponent of Charlemagne. About 20 m. S.E. lies Detmold. (See Rte. 69 a.) 1 Rehme Stat. — Inn, Post. Here are considerable salt-works belonging to the Prussian government; the salt water obtained by boring to a depth of 3220 ft. is converted into brine, fit for boiling, by causing it to evaporate in trickling over stacks of faggots. Mineral waters have been discovered in sinking the Artesian well for the brine ; and to accommodate patients who flock to avail themselves of their medicinal proper- ties a new colony or watering-place, called Regerhauscn, is springing up. — W. L. The railroad here crosses the river. 2 Porta Stat. Within about 2 m. of Minden the railroad traverses the celebrated pass called Porta Westphalica. It is a rent in the chain of mountains called We- sergebirge, through which the river Wcser finds a passage to the sea not unlike the gorge of the Neckar at Hei- delberg, except in having a plain above as well as below the pass. The hills on either side of this breach, the "door- 360 COLOGNE TO BERLIN. Sect. V. posts," as it were, of the gates, are called Jacobsberg and Wittekindsberg ; the last is named from a castle of the Saxon hero which once stood on it, and is now replaced by a Belvedere or stone tower. Near it is a ruined chapel in which, according to the tradition, Witte- kind was baptized by Charlemagne, The view from the tops of these hills is very extensive. The Weser, the high road on its 1. bank and the railroad on its rt., fill up the pass. Here are quar- ries of fine building-stone (sandstone). 1 Minden Stat, (carriages changed here). — Travellers going towards Co- logne, who have joined the train be- tween this and Brunswick, should re- member that here they enter the territory of the Zollverein, and that luggage is examined. If they omit to see that their luggage is passed through the custom-house, they will find, on reaching Cologne, or any of the interme- diate stations on the line, that it has been left behind in the Minden custom-house. On entering the State of Hanover from the territory of the Zollverein, luggage is usually examined at the station at which the traveller leaves the train. Minden (Preussisch) — Inns, Eisen- bahngasthof , tolerable ; Stadt London ; Stadt Bremen — is a strong fortress, belonging to Prussia, with 10,000 inhab, including garrison, on the "Weser, which is crossed by a stone bridge, 600 ft. long, built in 1518, separating the Prus- sian territory from the domains of Lippe- Schaumburg. It was the residence of several early German Emperors, and many Diets were held here. The Ca- thedral is a fine building, remarkable for the fan-shaped tracery of its win- dows (13th cent.). In it is a curious painting by H. Aldegrever, a West- phalian artist, early in the 16th cent., of Wittekind coming to Charlemagne to be baptized. Both it and the Ch. in the Proviant Platz are in the pure early pointed style. Herr Kruger's cabinet of pictures contains early works of German mas- ters, and specimens of the Westphalian School of Art. The Westphalian Museum contains some interesting curiosities. The for- tifications were blown up by Frederick the Great at the end of the seven years' war, but have since been renewed and lately enlarged on account of the rail- way. The French blew up one arch of the stone bridge 1813, and it is re- placed by a wooden one. N. of the town, around the village of Todtenhausen, lies the field of the Battle of Minden, gained by Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick over the French in 1 759. The victory would have been more complete had the English cavalry advanced ; and their commander, Lord George Sackville, was in consequence tried, and deprived of his military rank. Some doubts, however, have been enter- tained of the justice of the sentence of the court=martial ; and it is even sup- posed that the confused orders which prevented the advance of the British arose from the jealousy of the Germans. Steamers on the "Weser, down to Bre- men, and up to Minden. (Bte. 74 a.) Biickeburg Stat. (Inns : Heutsches Haus ; Berliner Hof) is the chief town of the little principality of Schaumburg- Lippe, and contains 2000 inhab. The prince resides in a large and ugly Palace, with a pretty garden and park. [About 9 m.'from Biickeburg, through Eilsen (a sulphur bath) , Arnsburg, and Berusen, rises the Paschenburg, one of the highest hills on the Weser (1115 ft.), surmounted by an Inn: a very extensive view — looking down upon the old castle of Schaumburg, the course of the Weser discerned in 19 different spots, the Brocken, the Grolenberg, and about 100 towns and villages.] Stadthagen Stat. The handsome mausoleum of Prince Ernest, attached to the church, deserves notice. Haste Stat. [About 4 m. S. of this lies JNenndorf, a watering-place belong- ing to the Elector of Hesse, who has a chateau here. Strangers are accom- modated in the three bath-houses, and there is a table-d'hote daily, during the season, in the Arkaden Saal. The waters are cold and sulphureous, and are used for di'inking as well as for baths.] Wunstorf Stat. Here is the junction of the Railroad from Bremen. The Leine river is crossed rt. Herren- hausen Palace (see p. 362). Prussia. ROUTE 66. — HANOVER, 361 Hanover Stat. — Hanover (Germ. Hannover) — Inns : Royal Hotel, close to the railway, good (bedroom with waxlights 14 g. gr. ; breakfast 5 g. gr. ; dinner 12 g. gr. ; servants 4 g. gr. ; porter and boots extra) ; British Hotel ; H. de Strelitz; Romischer Kaiser; H. dc Hanovre — the capital of the kingdom of Hanover, is situated in a plain on the Leine, a small stream, and has 42,500 inhab. It does not make an imposing appearance at a distance, and within it is somewhat dull, and does not contain much to interest a stranger, nor are its trade and manufactures of great importance. Recent improve- ments, however, in its streets and houses, and the permanent residence of the Court since 1837, are making con- siderable changes for the better The Royal Palace (Schloss) is a handsome building, and is fitted up in a style of considerable splendour. The Ritter Saal is a fine apartment. There is a large collection of portraits in this palace : among them the most interest- ing are those of Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia; Geo. I., II., III., and IV. ; ¥m. IV. ; the Duke of Wellington on a grey horse, by Lucas ; Napoleon be- fore Ratisbon, Adolph Adam. The Plate-room (Silberkammer) is shown, but application must be made before- hand. Here is a very important col- lection of mediseval antiquities, relics, &c, some of them brought from the Holy Land by Henry the Lion, under the care of the Ober Hof-Commissar. The departure of George I. from Han- over to ascend the throne of England occasioned little or no alteration in his court ; the same number of chamber- lains, and an equally large stud of horses, were maintained at the expense of the country. Even court levees were held regularly every Sunday, with this difference — that, instead of the Elector, his portrait was placed on the state chair at the end of the apartment. Every courtier, as he entered, bowed to it as he would have done to the original ; and while the ceremony lasted no one spoke louder than a whisper. The finest buildings are collected around the square called Waterloo Platz, which serves also as a parade-ground. [n. g.] N". the picturesque Schloss, encircled by the Leine ; S. the Waterloo Column, 162 ft. high, surmounted by Victory, and inscribed with the names of the Hanoverians, privates as well as officers, who fell in the battle : on either side barracks. E., in the background, the Cadettenhaus ; W., on a hillock, stands a circular Temple, enclosing Leibnitz's bust (damaged by stones thrown at it). The new Theatre (1851), close to the Railway Stat., is one of the most strik- ing modern buildings in Germany. The Royal Stables are filled with black and cream-coloured horses, of the stock from which are derived those which draw the state carriage of the Queen of England. In the old town several quaint Gothic houses still exist. The Raihhaus is curiously ornamented on the outside, and a neighbouring church quaintly built of red brick. Leibnitz's house, with stone ornaments and scriptural bas-reliefs in its front, is in the Schmiede Gasse, a corner house. The Scholsskirche, a handsome church, contains some relics collected by Henry the Lion. In the vaults beneath it are buried George I. and his mother, the Electress Sophia. The Royal Library contains 40,000 volumes. Leibnitz's arm-chair, in which he studied and breathed his last, and a great number of his MSS. and some unconnected notes, scribbled on scraps of paper of all sizes, are also pre- served here. Among the books are " Cicero's Offices," printed on vellum by Fust, at Mayence. At the elid is the date, 1465, with a statement that the book was executed " neither with a pen, nor a pen of brass, but by a certain art." The " Biblion Pauperum," — an illuminated missal, given by Charles V. to Henry VIII. "The Book of Esther," written with a pen, and illustrated by costly drawings, deserves notice. A large collection of autograph letters of remarkable persons are also included in this library. The Picture Gallery of BaurathHaug- mann is important. The Estates of Hanover assemble in an elegant modern building called Landschaftliches Hans. R 362 ROUTE 66. — BRUNSWICK. MUSEUM. Sect. V. Herschel, the astronomer, was born here ; he was originally musician in the royal hand ; Leibnitz and Zimmermann died here ; Zimmermann is buried in the public cemetery, Leibnitz in the Neustadter Kirche. The brothers Schle- gel and Iffland were also natives of Hanover. A grand avenue of limes more than a mile long extends from the town to the Royal Palace of Herrenhausen. It is a low tasteless building, and is now deserted and out of order, but contains some royal portraits connected with English history. It was the favourite residence of George I. and II., and was built by the former for his mistress, Countess Platen : his smoking-room is still preserved. The Gardens, laid out in a formal style with straight walks, lined with high clipped hedges, which in one place are made to form a sylvan theatre, and carpeted with turf, contain statues, fountains, and splendid jets- d'eau. The Electress Sophia, mother of George I., and granddaughter of James I., dropped down dead while walking in these gardens. In the Royal Mausoleum is a monumental effigy of the late Queen of Hanover, Frederica, by Eauch. Mont Brilliant, J m. out of the town, on the 1. going to Herrenhausen, is the summer residence of the present King. Railways : to Bremen, Rte. 72 a; to Hamburg, Rte. 59. Schnellposts daily to Cassel. Lehrte Stat. Here is the junction of the lines from Harburg (Rte. 59) and Hildesheim. (Rte. 72.) Peine Stat. Vechelde Stat. Brunswick (Germ. Braunschweig) Stat, (carriages changed here). — (Here the territory of the Zollverein begins, and luggage is examined: see above at Minden.) — Inns: Rheinischer Hof, and next to it Das Deutsche Haus ; H. d'Angleterre ; H. de Prusse ; Prinz Wilhelm. The capital of the Duchy and residence of the Duke of Brunswick is a very ancient town on the Ocker, with 38,000 inhab. ; cleanly in its streets, and displaying much pic- turesque architecture in its antique houses, many of wood, with dates on them of 1488-91-92. The latter half of the 14th, and beginning of the next century, was the golden age of Bruns- wick, when it became a place of great commercial importance, and a leading member of the Hanse League. It is no longer fortified, but surrounded by plan- tations and Walks, which occupy the site of the former ramparts. The Palace or Residenzschloss is a magnificent and tasteful building, erected from the designs of Ottmer, supplying the place of that called Graue Hof, which was burnt in 1839 by the mob. It is handsomely furnished, and contains an interesting picture of M. Theresa's children. A party may see it by paying a fee of 2 dollars, but it is scarce worth it ; the garden only, which is open to the public, being worth seeing. The Museum, in the Zeughaus (Ar- senal), near the Cathedral, well arranged and kept, consists of — 1. Gallery of Paintings, containing many works of high merit, particularly two Jan Steens, the best pictures by that artist, pro- bably, existing — one represents a Mar- riage Contract, the other a Musical Party; Van der Heist, a woman and child; Holbein, Sir Thomas More ; Rem- brandt, two excellent portraits, in his clear manner, of Grotius and his wife, and a good landscape ; Mierevelt, fine portraits of a Count and Countess of Nassau ; Giorgione (?) Adam and Eve, a very good picture, though it is per- haps incorrectly assigned to this master — it is more probably a work of Palma Vecchio ; Steenwyk, the Deliverance of St. Peter, a large picture ; a fine Guido ; a portrait said to be by Raphael ; Teniers, Sen., a Chemist; Schwartz, an Old Man ; 162, Ruysdael, a Waterfall ; G. Dou, his own Portrait ; 314 and 327, Alb. Diirer, 2 Portraits; 473, Rembrandt, with his Wife and 3 Children; ditto, 466, an Entombment ; 449, Honthorst, Boy with Flute. 160 pictures out of this collection were transported to Paris by the French. The greater part were originally in the gallery at Salz- dahlum. 2. A collection of Natural History of second-rate excellence : it includes some Prussia. ROUTE 66. — BRUNSWICK. CATHEDRAL. 363 very perfect fossil bones of the Cave Bear from the Harz. 3. Classical Antiquities. — Statues, bronzes, &c., from Greece and Italy. The famous Mantuan Vase of onyx was carried away by the former Duke Charles. • 4. Antiquities, and "Works of Art of more recent times. At the head of them must be placed an exquisite carv- ing in steatite by Albert Diirer, repre- senting St. John preaching in the Wil- derness. It is a masterpiece of its kind. Some of the figures are detached and finished all round, and in one or two instances, where their backs are turned outwards, it will be found that the faces are made out with the utmost delicacy and beauty, though there is barely room to pass the blade of a knife behind them, a fact which increases our ad- miration of the dexterity of the artist. Here are preserved the uniform of Frederick the Great, worn at Mollwitz, in the Seven Years' War ; uniform and sword which the Duke of Brunswick carried at Qnatre Bras; and Luther's ring. There are many other valuable objects of art and vertu : rich silver plate ; carvings in ivory, amber, wood ; also a crucifix by M. Angelo, with bas- reliefs in silver by Ben. Cellini ; and a collection of Majolica, amounting to 1000 pieces, perhaps the finest in Europe. This collection suffered by its trip to Paris ; many of the finest speci- mens being found missing on its return. It was formerly kept at the castle of Salzdahlum. French enamels made at Limoges, collected by Tavernier to take to Persia — a very fine collection. Xociusko's cup carved in prison. Fine MSS. of the Gospels, 1000 or 1100; others with rich gold and ivory covers. The Museum is open to the public daily, except Monday, from 11 to 1 ; at other times admittance can only be ob- tained by special application to the Director, and by payment of a fee of 2^ dollars. The Dom or Cathedral of St. Blaize (patron of Brunswick) is a plain, solid structure in the Norman style, of great antiquity, 1176-1250, begun by Henry the Lion, one of the most illustrious princes of the House of Guelph (from whom the royal family of England are descended), after his return from a pil- grimage in the Holy Land. It has recently been repaired and cleared of whitewash, by which some very curious frescoes (Italian in style) of the 13th century, have been laid bare. The N. aisle is of much more recent date (1469), and is supported by lythe, twisted, or screw pillars, of the utmost elegance, and very unusual. The altar in front of the roodloft is a slab of Purbeck marble, supported by 5 bronze pillars ; it was presented by the Duchess Matilda. The seven-branched brass candlestick (a copy, it is said, of that which stood in the temple of Jerusalem), on a pedes- tal ornamented with grotesque monsters, was made by command of Henry the Lion, and in the Byzantine style of art. Henry himself, and his wife Matilda, an English princess (daughter of Henry II. and sister of Richard Cceur de Lion), are buried in this church. Their effigies recline upon a sarcophagus in the central aisle. The Vaults beneath the church are the burial-place of the Ducal family. No fewer than 9 of the princes here in- terred perished on the field of battle. The most remarkable among this range of coffins, in the eyes of Englishmen, are those containing the bodies of the Duke, who was mortally wounded at the fatal battle of Jena,, and of his son,, who fell at Quatre Bras r having nobly avenged his fathers death,, at the head of his devoted black band. "Two small (black) flags, the one an offering from the matrons, the other from- the maidens of Brunswick, are suspended a&OVe Ills' coffin, still sprinkled with the browa and withering leaver of the garlands which the love of his peopfo scattered on his bier, when at midnight he was laid among so many of his race who had fought and fallen like himself,'*— Bus-, sell. Beside the coffins of these two heroes is placed that of Caroline of Brunswick, consort of Geo, IV, Tho silver plate, sent from England, bore the words, dictated by herself, " Mur^ dered Queen of England," but it waa removed and replaced by another, in- scribed simply with the name, dates, and titles, in the usual form ; the marka R 2 364 ROUTE 66. — BRUNSWICK CHURCHES. Sect. V. of the nails which fastened the original plate are still visible. Some of the relics brought by Henry the Lion from Palestine, which cost him vast sums, are preserved in an ante- chamber leading into the Boyal vault ; one of them, which the monks had palmed upon his credulity as a " Grif- fin's claw," and which long passed for such, is now ascertained to be the curved horn of a particular species of antelope ! Here are also shown the ivory horn and pipe of St. Blaize ; a statue of Henry the Lion made pro- bably in his lifetime ; a singular pillar of wood, bearing the emblems of the Passion of Christ, as the spear, nails, crown of thorns; St. Veronica's hand- kerchief; St. Peter's sword; the high priest's servant's ear ; the cock which crew, &c. &c. The bone of a whale or mammoth, in this vault, long passed for one of Goliath's ribs ! In the centre of the square near the Cathedral stands an ancient bronze Lion, of stiff Byzantine workmanship, brought from Constantinople by Henry the Lion. In the Alt Stadtmarht is a rich Gothic fountain of bronze, ornamented with figures, devices, and coats of arms : date 1408. The Mansion House (Alt- stadt Rathhaus), a beautiful specimen of German architecture (about 1300), hav- ing statues of Guelphic princes in front. The building is deserted and decayed : its dungeons are turned into wine cel- lars. St. Martin's Ch., opposite, is an interesting Gothic edifice of the 12th cent., but St. Anne's chapel at the S.W. dates from 1441. On the outside, in one corner, is a monument with effigies in relief of a man in armour, d. 1615. The bronze font, 1441, the statues on the pulpit (end of 16th cent.), and those of the high altar (1725), deserve notice. These 3 buildings, in combination with some Gothic houses in the same square, form a very pic- turesque group. The outsides of the Petrikirche, said to have been built by Henry the Lion, and of St. Andrew's Ch. (1200-1340, finished in the middle of the 16th cent.), ornamented ex- ternally on the S. side with figures of cripples (d. 1400), have a grand effect. St. Catherine's Ch. (latter half of 13th cent., choir finished 1450) resembles St. Andrew's, and is an ornament to the town. Here are some fine monu- ments of the 16- 18th cent., and painted glass, 1553. The old houses, Nos. 772, 773, in the Breiten St., and No. 456, Stein St., have curious carvings of the 15th cent. Close to the August Thor, on the finest site that the levelled ramparts afford, a cast-iron obelisk, 60 ft. high, has been erected by the citizens to the memory of their two dukes, who fell at Jena and Quatre Bras. About a mile outside the Stein Thor a monument and chapel have been erected to the memory of the brave but luckless Sphill (Bte. 76) and his companions in arms, 14 of whom were shot here by the French. Schill's head, formerly pre- served in spirits at Leiden, is now buried under the monument along with his body, and his bust, a gift of the King of Bavaria, is deposited in the chapel, along with many other relics of the War of Independence. Schill headed a patriotic rising against the French in 1808, which, though pre- mature, and quickly suppressed, led the way to the well-concerted opposition to Napoleon, which, in 1814, freed Ger- many from his thraldom. The famous corps of black Bruns- wickers, remarkable for their bravery and devotion to their princes, as well as for their sable uniform, black horsehair plume, and ominous death's head and cross-bones, are the Duke's Body- guard. A celebrated Fair is held at Bruns- wick. In the small Magni Kirchhof is the grave of Lessing (d. 1781), marked by a simple stone. The Railroad from Brunswick to Magdeburg runs near the Ducal cha- teaux of Bichmond andWilliamscastle, to li Wolfenbiittel Stat. Wolfenbiittel, a town of 9000 inhab., on the Ocker, remarkable for its Library of 200,000 vols., containing a vast number of Bi- bles, among them Luther's Bible, with notes in his own hand. His marriage Prussia. ROUTE 66. — MAGDEBURG. 365 ring, doctor's ring, spoon, drinking glass, and his portrait by Cranach, are also preserved here. MSS., Mseso- Gothic, Icelandic, Latin, of 12th and 13th cents., Cufic, Greek; Sachsenspie- gel (Saxon laws) full of figures. Lessing lived a long time here, as librarian to the Duke. [A branch railroad is carried from Wolfenbtittel to Harzburg, 6 Germ. m. = 28^ Eng. m., in the vicinity of Goslar. By means of it the excursion to the Harz (Rte. 73) may be con- veniently made from Brunswick. At Harzburg Stat, is a good restaurant and hotel ; Braunschweiger Hof. Car- riages, guides, and asses may be hired here. Harzburg consists of a few scattered houses at the foot of the mountains]. 2 5 Schoppenstadt Stat. If Jerxheim Stat. 2 Wegersleben Stat. The wooded hills of the Harz (the Brocken) appear against the S. horizon. ljj; Gross- Oschersleben Stat. (A branch railway hence to Halber- stadt, 2f Germ. m. Bte. 74.) 1 Hadmersleben Stat. 2 Langenweddingen Stat. "Within a circle of a few miles from Magdeburg lies some of the most fertile corn-land in Germany. It is, however, an open and unpicturesque plain, scarcely a hedge or tree visible. Much chicory is cultivated in this district : after being roasted at some of the kilns near the town, it is largely exported as a substitute for coffee. Most of the churches of Magdeburg have twin towers nearly alike, so that seven pair of steeples may be perceived on ap- proaching it, rising above the level lines of green ramparts. 2 Magdeburg Stat. — Inns: Erzherzog Stephan, close to the Stat., good ; — Stadt London. The capital of the Prussian province of Saxony is built on the Elbe, and has 66,000 inhab., including the garrison (4000) and 2000 R. Catholics. It is a fortress of the first class, and from the augmentation and improvement in its defences since the war is now considered one of the strongest in Europe. Owing to its vast extent, it could not be in- vested by an army of less than from 50,000 to 100,000 men. The Citadel, on an island of the Elbe, one of the oldest parts of the fortifications, serves also as a state prison ; Lafayette and Carnot were confined in it. The famous Baron Trenck was long imprisoned in the Stern Schanze (Star Bastion) out- side the Sudenberger Thor : it is con- sidered one of the strongest points. The newly erected defences are Fort Scharnhorst and the Thurm Schanze. In spite of, or rather in consequence of, the strength of its bulwarks, Magdeburg has endured the miseries of war at dif- ferent times, and to a terrible extent, especially during the 30 years' war. It resisted the army of Wallenstein for 7 months (1629), but was taken at the end of 2 years (1631) by the ferocious Tilly, who carried it by assault, sacked it, and massacred 30,000 of its inha- bitants without distinction of age or sex, with accompaniments of brutality and atrocity which alone will serve to affix for ever the above epithet to his name. The church of St. John, in which many hundred women had taken refuge, was nailed up and burnt, and the troop- ers, fastening to their saddle-girths the wives and daughters of murdered citi- zens, dragged them off to the camp. In the despatch in which Tilly an- nounced the capture, he says, " Since the destruction of Jerusalem and Troy, such a victory has not been." The gate by which he entered the town still con- tinues walled up, and upon the House of the commandant, whom he beheaded, may be still read the words, "Remem- ber the 1 0th of May, 1631." After this calamity only 139 houses were left standing. In 1806 the Fortress, though garrisoned by 20,000 men, was basely surrendered to the French by General Kleist, after 14 days' siege, in conse- quence, it is supposed, of cither cow- ardice or a bribe. The last siege was the long and obstinate one which it en- dured in 1813-14. Magdeburg, from its position on the Elbe, is the entrepot of the merchandize which enters Germany by that river, and is a place of considerable manufac- turing industry, as well as of active commerce, A canal, commencing 20 m. 366 ROUTE 66, — MAGDEBURG, CATHEDRAL. Sect. V. below the town, unites the Elbe with the Havel. The finest street is the Breiteweg, running 3S". and S. through the town, and almost the only fine building is The Cathedral, one of the noblest Gothic edifices of N. Germany, erected between 1211 and 1363. It was shame- fully injured, and turned into a ware- house and stable, by the French, but has been repaired, at the cost of 300,000 dollars, by the Prussian government. "All the lower part of the building dates from about 1200. It succeeded an older Dom, erected by the Empr. Otho I., of which a curious model is pre- served in a side chapel ; it was round, and probably one of the largest churches of that form. 3 imposing colossal statues behind the choir, various marble and granite columns, and perhaps the small figures now in the walls of the choir, belonged to the old Dom." — F.S. This ch. is 864 ft. long. The roof of the nave is 110 ft. high. The tomb of the Empr. Otho I. and his queen Editha (daughter of Edmund King of the Anglo- Saxons) is of the 14th cent. The horseshoe arches of the E. end are very elegant. The pulpit of alabaster, now sadly mutilated, is the work of one Sebastian Extel, 1594; there is a monu- ment by the same hand in the church, and others displaying fine cinque-cento bas-relief. " The variety and. beauty of the Romanesque capitals and tym- pana are remarkable. The dog-tooth ornament occurs in the triforium, and on the exterior at the "W. end. The cloisters deserve a visit." — B. In a chapel at the W. end, singu- larly placed between the two towers, where the principal entrance ought to be, is the monument of Archbp. Ernest (1495), executed in bronze by the celebrated artist of Nuremberg, Peter Vischer. The figures of the 12 Apostles around it are worthy of mi- nute examination as works of art of great excellence. A branched bronze candelabrum and 2 chandeliers, as well as the iron screen, are of ancient work. Among other remarkable monuments is that of one Bake, a canon of the cathedral, who saved the building from destruction by interceding on its be- half with Tilly, whose schoolfellow he had been ; also that of the Frau von Asseburg, who returned home the night after her burial, and lived with her husband for 9 years after her first in- terment ; a story which the sexton will not fail to tell. Tilly's helmet and gloves are shown here. Against the walls are placed tablets bearing the names of the men of Mag- deburg who fell in the War of Libera- tion, with this simple heading : — " Aus dieser Stadt starben fur Konig und Vaterland." In order to see the fine view of the town and fortifications from the top of the towers 350 ft. high, permission ought to be obtained from the commandant ; but you can ascend as far as the roof with the Dom-Custos. N.B. The gravedigger's wife keeps the keys of the tower. In St. Sebastian's Church is the grave of Otto Guerike, the inventor of the air-pump. In the Alte Markt, opposite the Rathhaus, stands an equestrian statue of the Emperor Otho, with his two queens, one on either side. It is the oldest monument in Magdeburg, erect- ed by the grateful citizens after his death (973). The Public Gardens, called Frie- drich Wilhelms Garten, outside the Sudenberger gate, and by the side of the Elbe, are tastefully laid out, com- mand fine views, and are a great re- source to the townspeople. The Furs- tenwall {Prince's Rampart), a sort of terrace and parade-ground running along the margin of the Elbe, — named from Prince Leopold of Dessau, — not far from the Dom, is a fine walk. Beneath it are casemates, whose chimneys pro- ject through the ground among the trees. They are now partly occupied as railway offices. Luther went to school at Magdeburg, and has recorded in his writings that while a poor scholar here he often sang in the streets and at rich men's doors (as is still the custom with poor cho- risters) to earn a scanty pittance, which helped to support him. The French republican General Car- not is buried in the churchyard outside the Krokentkor ; he received an asylum here from the Prussians after being Prussia. ROUTE 67. DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN. 367 banished from France, in consequence of the restoration of the Bourbons, and d. 1823. . There is a Theatre here. The Frie- drich Wilhelms Garten beyond the glacis occupies the site of the garden of the Convent of Berg, founded 937, sup- pressed 1810 : it commands an exten- sive view. For the Bailway from Magdeburg to Berlin, see Bte. 62. EOUTE 67. DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN, BY ELBERFELD, CASSEL, EISLEBEN, AND HALLE. 83| Pruss. m.= 389£ Eng. m. Railway from Dusseldorf to Dort- mund, where it enters the Minden railway (Bte. 66). Trains in 4 hours to Dortmund. This railway connects the nourishing manufacturing districts of the Wupperthal, and county of Mark, with the Cologne-Berlin line. It is interesting alike from the industry and picturesque beauty of the country it traverses, as well as for the engineering skill displayed in its construction. Gerresheim Stat. This old town once contained a celebrated Nunnery for noble ladies. The fair Agnes of Mansfeldt eloped from it with Geb- hart Truchsess, Archbishop of Cologne, in 1582. The Church is a fine Gothic edifice of the 12th cent. Erkerath Stat. Beyond this is an inclined plane, which the carriages as- cend by the weight of a descending train coming in the opposite direction. Hochdahl Stat, is 1 m. distant from a cavern called the Neanders Hohle. Vohwinkel Stat. A few miles S. of this lies the town of Solingen [Inns : Baerischer Hof; Stadt Konigsberg), 4000 inhab., famous for its extensive manufacture of sword-blades, foils, scissors, and other articles of cutlery and ironware. A branch railway, called Prince William's Railway, runs N. from Voh- winkel to Steele. Near the village of Sonnborn the train crosses the vale of the Wupper on a bridge of 6 arches, and along the shoulder of a hill reaches Elberfeld Stat. Omnibus (5 Sgr.) into the town. 3£ Elberfeld. — Inns: Kurpfalzer Hof (Cour Electorale) ; — Zweibrucker Hof; — Weiden Hof. This is one of the most important towns in the Prus- sian dominions, from its extensive ma- nufactories. It has a population of 48,000, and is joined to another town, Barmen, with 32,000 inhab., forming an uninterrupted street 5 miles long. Its situation in the pretty valley of the Wupper is picturesque, healthy, and advantageous to its commerce, but the town itself is dirty and not prepossess- ing. It has rapidly risen to its actual extent and height of prosperity within the present century. Its principal ma- nufactures consist of cottons, thread, silk, and the dye called Turkey red, which is produced here of so excellent a colour, and so very cheap, that cotton yarn is actually exported to a consider- able extent from Glasgow and else- where, and is afterwards reimported from Elberfeld, dyed. In 1829 the annual produce of the manufactures here was valued at more than 3 millions sterling. There are few districts in Europe at present which exceed in manufacturing enterprise, wealth, and population, that part of the Bhenish provinces of Prussia which anciently composed the Duchy of Berg. It may be nearly included within a triangle drawn from Cologne, along the Bhine to the mouth of the Buhr, and from these two points to Hagen. The valleys of the Wupper, and of the streams pouring into it, are scenes of the most active and intelligent industry, and their manufactures of cotton, iron, cutlery, and brass, nearly equal those of England, while they surpass our own in cheapness. The prosperity of the country is visible at every step : coal, the origin of all manufacturing prosperity, is found in abundance ; water-power is furnished by the nume- rous streams ; steam-engines have been erected everywhere, and the hills are covered with habitations even up to their summits. The new Rathhaus is ornamented with frescoes by the Dusseldorf artists. The object best worth visiting here is the Belvedere (Bundschau auf der Hardt), a round tower on the top of 368 ROUTE 67, — BLBERFELD. ISERLOHN". Sect. V. the hill of Hardt, surrounded hy plea- sure-grounds, a charming point of view, overlooking the Wupperthal, ac- cessible in less than ^ an hour from the Hotel. Schnellposts daily to Iserlohn, — to Cassel in 29£ hours. Elberfeld is united to Barmen by a bridge, so that they seem to form but one town, both animated by the same spirit of industry. Barmen is a long straggling street, with manufactories and human dwellings on either side. At every step the country displays the most agreeable signs of industrious prosperity, — indeed this portion of the Duchy of Berg may be looked on as one vast workshop. It is the most populous district of Prussia ; the number of inhab. is calculated at 18,000 to the German square m. (21 J Eng. square m.) The railway crosses the frontier of Berg and Mark, the ancient ■ line of demarcation be- tween the Franks and Saxons, before reaching 1£ Schwelm (Inn, Markischer Hof), an active^ little town of 3400 inhab. After passing through a considerable cutting in the mountain the railway gains an_ elevated point (Milspe) from which you look down upon the broad vale of Ennepe, swarming with life and industry. Villages occur at every few miles of road, chiefly busied in various manufactures of iron. Ma- chetes, here called Sackhauer, for cut- ting the sugar-cane in the West Indies, &c, are made here. 2 ~ Hagen (Inn, Preussischer Adler), a manufacturing town of 3500 inhab. Schnellpost, daily, in 24 hours, from Hagen to Cassel. Near Witten the railway quits the valley of the Buhr. Dortmund Stat., in Bte. 66, where this railway enters the Cologne, Min- den, and Berlin line. The post-road between Hagen and Unna runs near to the coal-mines, the chief source of pros- perity to the surrounding district. The road makes a considerable bend to cross the Lenne, approaching the small town of Limburg (Inn, Bentheimer Hof, beautifully situated), and the chateau of the Prince of Bentheim-Tecklenbiirg- Bheda, which is in a very picturesque situation. At the point where the Lenne joins the Buhr, N.W. in the distance are seen the ruins of Hohen- Syburg, the old castle of Wittekind, last Duke of the Saxons, who was here con- quered by Charlemagne and compul- sorily baptized. After passing near the Grurmannshohle, nearer Iserlohn, at Griine, a colossal cross of iron is dis- cernible. It was set up as a memorial of the War of Liberation. 2 J Iserlohn (Inn, Quinke's Hotel), one of the most considerable manufac- turing towns in Westphalia, with 9400 inhab. : it may be regarded as the Birmingham of Prussia, where steam- engines, cutlery, and all sorts of brass ware, buttons, needles, pins, wire, &c, are made. The country round abounds in workshops, forges, paper-mills, &c, is rich in picturesque rocks, ruined castles of antiquity, and, romantic valleys and glens. At Hemar, 3 m. on the high road, the traveller, by turning rt. to the village Sundwich, may see the Sundwich Hohle, a cave containing fossil bones, and the Sea of Bocks (Felsenmeer). We are now in the ancient duchy of Westphalia, the country of the red earth, over which, in former times, the jurisdiction of the mysterious Yehm Gericht, miscalled the Secret Tribunal, extended. The na- tional food of Westphalia is brown rye bread, commonly called pumpernickel, described by Voltaire as " certaine pierre dure, noire, et gluante, composee, a. ce qu'on pretend, d'une espece de seigle ;" it is found on the tables of rich and poor, and horses are fed on a coarse sort of it, as well as men. 2^ Wimbern. — Inn, Post ; civil people, but poor accommodation. — R. T. Hence to Werl, on the high road to Munster and Paderborn, is only 1 Germ. m. The road approaches the Buhr, and continues along its banks for many miles, crossing it at Neheim. 2| Arnsberg. — Inn, Konig von Preus- sen, good. — A town of 4000 inhab., prettily situated on an eminence half encircled by the Buhr. On one of the gates are groups of stags and boars not ill executed. There is an extensive view horn, the ruins of the Old Castle, Prussia. ROUTE 67. — ARNSBERG. CASSEL. S69 in the Court of which (Baumhof), or in a field on the 1. of the road to Iser- lohn, the judges of that which has been called the Secret Tribunal used to assemble for deliberation. The holy Vehrn numbered in. "Westphalia (which anciently comprehended the country between the Rhine, Weser, and Ems) 100,000 Wissenden or initiated. This ancient court of justice, now errone- ously regarded as a sort of German in- quisition, was in truth only a separate jurisdiction ; its meetings were held in public places, and in open day ; and its proceedings were neither secret nor tyrannical. The words Secret Tribunal are in fact a mistranslation of the words " Separatum judicium." Part of the old castle is fitted up as a residence for the family- of Hesse-Schomberg, and contains some good pictures, pottery, and glass. The gardens are much fre- quented by picnic parties from the neighbouring places. At the foot of the hill lies the suppressed Benedictine Abbey Weddinghausen. Schnellpost to Munster. Pretty country to 2£ Meschede, a pretty town on the Ruhr. Schaffers Inn. 3 Brilon (Inn, Post) is one of the oldest towns in Germany, and has 3000 inhab. The Great Parish Ch. was built, it is said, by Charlemagne, in 776 (?). This stage lies over a lonely heath (Thurlerheide), with scarcely a house in sight. 2 Bredelar on the Diemel. The post- house was once a monastery, now turned into an iron-work. The old road goes by Arolsen (2f), residence of the Prince of Waldeck ( Inns ; Waldeckscher Hof ; — Romer) ; Rauch the sculptor, and Kaulbach the painter, were born at Arolsen. Volkmarsen, 1 j ; — Westuffeln, 2 : but the new road, made as far as possible within the Prussian territory, skirts Waldeck, and passes through 3f Ossendorf. Beyond, however, it is necessarily carried across a portion of the Electorate of Hesse, which, in conjunction with Waldeck, separate the Westphalian and Rhenish provinces of Prussia from the rest of her empire. 2£ Westuffeln. The Elector of Hesse has a country-seat at Wilhelmsthal. 2^ Cassel. — In Rte. 70. Schnellpost to Halle, 26 Germ, m., in 26 hours. By the Thuringian railway in 8 hrs. 2 Helsa. Near Almerode, the Mount Meissner, 2300 ft. above the sea-level, chiefly of columnar basalt, is seen to the S., and it maybe conveniently ascended from that place. Scenery, pretty and varied, to * 2f Witzenhausen (Inns : Konig v. Preussen; Goldne Krone), prettily placed on the Werra, 2500 inhab. ; the last station in Hesse Cassel. There is an elegant Gothic chapel, with elaborate open-work turret, near the bridge : it deserves being drawn. " There is a charming drive along the rt. bank of the Werra, both up to Allendorf, and down to Miinden in Hanover ; through woods the greater part of the way. The forests in Hesse are among the finest in Germany, owing to the large trees they contain, which are no longer found in those nearer the Rhine."— F. S. 3 Heiligenstadt (Inns : Preussischer Hof; Deutsches Haus) has 4000 inhab. ; it was formerly the capital of the principality of Eichsfeld, but now belongs to Prussia. The Ch. of the Apostles has 2 octagonal towers, and in the churchyard is an octagonal chapel, intended apparently for a Baptistery. 3 Wulfingerode. A hilly stage to 3 Nordhausen {Inns ; Romischer Kaiser ; Berliner Hof ; Englischer Hof ; Deutsches Haus, outside the town, good), a flourishing town of 15,000 inhab., at the S. extremity of the Harz mountains, in a country very fertile in corn. It has the most extensive dis- tilleries in Germany. In the Ch. of St. Blazius are two paintings by Luke Cranach ; an Ecce Homo, and the bu- rial of the young man of Nain, painted to adorn the tomb of a friend of the painter, who has introduced among the mourners portraits of Luther and Me- lancthon. Near the Rathhaus is a Ro- landsciule under a roof. (See p. 375.) Wolf the philosopher was born here. The walks and gardens on the upper side of the town are beautiful. There are many interesting points in the neighbourhood, such as the castles of Hohenstein and Ebersburg. The road from hence to r3 370 ROUTE 68. — COLOGNE TO CASSEL. Sect. V. Magdeburg and the Harz is described in Ete. 74. Near Nordhausen begins the fertile valley called Goldene Aue, watered by the winding Helme. It extends to Rossleben and Sangerhausen, near which it falls into the Unstrut. 11m. S. of Nordhausen lies Sondershausen (Inn, Erbprinz), capital of the small principality of Schwarzburg. — 8. In the palace is a small collection of an- tiquities, among them a bronze image, said to be an idol of the Sorbie- Wends called Piisterich, very old. At 2f Rossla on the Helme, 1200 inhab., Count Stolberg has a chateau. On the rt. of the road rises the hill called Kyff- hiiuser (1353 ft. high) : on it may be seen ruins of a tower, said to be the remains of an imperial castle, built by the Empr. Barbarossa, whose spirit is fabled still to haunt its chambers, and some among the peasants and miners affirm they have seen him with his head resting on his arm, and his red beard growing through the stone table at which he sits ! 2~ Sangerhausen. — Inn, Lowe. In theCh. of St. Ulrich (date 1079) is the tomb of Louis the Leaper, who voAved to build a chmch to St. TJlrich, provided he succeeded in jumping safely out of the window of his prison near Halle : from this circumstance he ob- tained a nickname, and the saint a church. Near the town are mines of brown coal and copper. 2f Eislebcn (Inn, Goldenes Schiff). A town of 7000 inhab. on the Bose, a small stream. It is only remarkable as the native place of Luther. The house in which he was born, 1483, and died, 1546, is not far from the gate leading to Halle, a few doors from the Post-office ; his portrait is placed over the entrance. The original building was partly consumed by fire in 16S9, but there is still enough of it left to give interest to it. It is now converted into a Free School for the education of poor children, and contains the cap, cloak, and other relics of the great reformer. In St. Andrew's ch. is the pulpit from which he preached, and some tombs of the Counts of Mansfeld. Luther was the son of a poor miner , here, and the greater part of the in- hab. still follow the same occupation, working in the neighbouring copper- mines. The ancient castle was the residence of the Counts of Mansfeld. The road traverses an open country bare of wood, passing 2 small lakes ; the one on the rt. is salt, the other fresh. 2~ Langenbogen. There are brown coal-mines near this. 2 Halle. See p. 356. Railway hence to Berlin. Rte. 63. ROUTE 68. COLOGNE TO CASSEL AND BRUNSWICK BY SOEST AND PADERBORN. Railway trains in 63 h. See Rte. 66 for the railway from Cologne to Hamm Stat. The "Westphalian Eisen- bahn diverges from this point to 2 "Werl. (Inn very bad.) Here are salt-works, and a miraculous image of the Virgin, to which many thousand pilgrims repair annually. 2|- Soest Stat. (Inns : Bei Overweg, comfortable and clean). A singular antiquated walled town, with 8000 inhab. ; reckoned the cheapest place in Germany. It contains several very curious churches, " which deserve elu- cidation by some competent architect. Many of them seem to be works of colonists from the Rhine, and are very Roman in the appearance of their archi- tecture and masonry. In the tower of one of them there still remains a heap of old cross-bow bolts and cross-bows in a state of decay. The more modern chinches of the 13th, 14th, and loth cent, are equally good, and seem to be emanations from the tasteful Gothic architecture of Minister. Some of the shrine work is particularly worthy of imitation from its richness and purity." —F. S. The Dom and the Petri- Kirche, in the Byzantine or round- arched style, and the Wtesen-Xirehe, a splendid specimen of German pointed Gothic (the altar-piece — the woes and joys of the Virgin, 1437— is fino\ es- pecially deserve notice. During- the middle ages Soest was a most flourishing Prussia. ' ROUTE 68. — COLOGNE TO CASSEL. 371 and populous town, lying on the great commercial high road from Bruges and Antwerp, across Germany, hy Cologne to Brunswick and the Baltic. In the 15th cent, it withstood a memorahle siege from Dietrich Archbp. of Co- logne, an ambitious prelate, who sought to subject Westphalia to his rule. In spite, however, of the long train of princes and nobles whom he gained over to his cause, and in spite of his army of 60,000 men, including a horde of 20,000 Bohemian mercenaries, the Bishop was compelled to raise the siege and retire from the walls, so bravely were they defended by the citizens, who served the artillery, and by their wives, who wielded pots of boiling pitch. Sir Peter Lely was a native of Soest. About a mile off, on the 1. of the road, are the salt-works and baths of Sas- sendorf. Lippstadt Stat., on the Lippe (Kop- pelmans Inn). If Gesecke Stat. — Inn, Post, tole- rable. 1 Salzkotten Stat. (Preussens Inn), a town of 1500 inhab., with considerable salt-works. 1 J Paderborn Stat. {Inns : Preus- sischcr Hof ; Romischer Hof, dirty ; Schwan ; none good). A very ancient and gloomy town of 8200 inhab., for- merly capital of an ecclesiastical prin- cipality, and seat of a University, now a Catholic Bishop's See, full of curious old houses. The Cathedral is a large and curious, rather than handsome, edifice, built 1133, 345 ft. long, 66 ft. high, has re- markable sculptures over the portal, and contains the shrine of St. Liborius of silver gilt, and numerous monuments of its bishops, &c. In an angle between the nave and the transept is a well 80 ft. deep. The sacristy abounds in articles of church plate, and in splendid priests' vestments. Below the Dom rises the stream of the Pader, out of 5 sources, in sufficient copiousness to be able to turn a mill at the distance of a few yards. The ground on which the town stands teems with springs of water, bursting forth in the very streets ; it is said there are not less than 300 in and about it, some of them warm. The Stadthaus is a very picturesque biiilding. The University is now replaced by a Catholic Seminary. There is a fine walk round the town. 1ST. and E. of Paderborn stretches the Teutoburger Wald, — the Saltus Teuto- bergicus of the Romans, — covered with oaks and beech. This high land is supposed to be the scene of the defeat of the legions of Varus by the German chief Arminius (Her-mann, the leader of the army). Allowing the Romans to advance across the plains of West- phalia, he awaited them in the first difficult country, on the skirts of the Great Hercynian Forest, a strong po- sition, covering the district up to the Weser, where, Roman discipline being of no avail, the invaders suffered one of the most serious defeats recorded in their annals, which arrested for ever their progress in this direction. The battle-field is supposed to lie between Driburg and Bielefeld (R. 66, p. 359. See also p. 377). Many of the present names of hills, forests, streams and vil- lages in this district correspond with those mentioned by Tacitus, near the scene of the battle. The railway on quitting Paderborn penetrates into the highlands of West- phalia, following first the valley of the Alme, next the winding course of the Sauer, by Etteln, Atteln, and Ebbing- hausen, traversing a tunnel at Lichtenau, and another through the Ebbegebirge. Warburg Stat. Here is the frontier of Prussia. An old and decayed town, in a picturesque site on the Diemel : 1. rises the hill of Eegelberg, sur- mounted by the ruins of Castle Desen- berg, the property of the Spiegel family. The river Diemel is crossed, and not far from Liebenau, on the frontier of Electoral Hesse, our railway reaches the line from Cassel to Karlshafen. Karlshafen Stat. {Inns : Karlsbahn ; Schwan), at the junction of the Diemel with the Weser. Steam-boat (see Rte. 74 a) to Bremen. For the railway to Cassel see Rte. 71. Cassel Station. The road to Brunswick proceeds from Paderborn to 372 EOUTE 69. — DUSSELDORF TO MUNSTER. Sect, V. 2f Driburg (Inns : Kothener Hof, in the town; Deutsches Haus, at the Wells : both good). The town con- tains 2000 inhab, A little to the E, of it, on the road to Hoxter, beneath the old castle of Yburg, lie the Baths, sup- plied by a chalybeate spring, one of the strongest known. They are annually frequented by some hundred visitors. -A covered gallery, 250 ft, long, serves as a promenade in bad weather. A new macadamised road leads over the Berg- stiege to 2 Braekel (Inns ; Berliner Hof ; Deutsches Haus), at the junction of the Brucht and Nethe, Population 2700. 2^ Hoxter (Inns : Berliner Hof ; Stadt Bremen), A walled town, 3500 inhab., the last in Prussian Westphalia, on the 1. bank of the Weser. Near it Charlemagne fought one of his hardest battles against the Saxons. The watch- tower on the Brunsberg is said to be a relic of a castle built by Bruno, brother of Wittekind, and which is supposed to have been one of the strongest Saxon fortresses. In 1673 Turenne fixed his head-quarters here. It is now a Prus- sian court-house. A fine avenue of chestnuts, 1 m. long, leads to the sup- pressed (1805) Benedictine Abbey of Corvey (Corveia), (no inn), one of the most ancient ecclesiastical establish- ments in Germany. It was founded in 823, by Louis the Pious, and received from Paris, in 836, the relics of St. Vitus ; it became the missionary centre from which Christianity and civiliza- tion were spread over a large part of JN". Germany and Scandinavia. Ansgar, the Apostle of the IS"., was a missionary from Corvey, and Pope Gregoiy V. was abbot here. The only existing MS. of the first 5 books of Tacitus was discovered in the convent library, 1514, and published 1515 by Pope Leo X. The Convent, a handsome modern edi- fice, is now a seat of the Prince of HohenlOhe-Schillingsfurst, but too vast for any private family of whatever rank, and void of interest. The only remains of the old Abbey are in the W. front of the Church, and the story over it, with the columns of single blocks in the vestibule, attributed with some pro- bability to the age of Charlemagne ; the body is of the 1 5th cent. Steamer to Bremen, see Etc, 74a, Beyond this, as far as Eschershausen, the road is fine. If Holzminden in Brunswick. 2Jr Eschershausen. See § 48, p. 228. { § — ^ — £ of a dollar - J Kassen Scheme. — Notes of Saxony are in use as well as those of Prussia. The Leipzig and Dresden Railroad Company has also been allowed to issue paper money, but it is not taken at the public offices nor at theatres. Gold Coins. Augustus, or piece of 5 dollars, Half do. - Ducat - s. d. 16 5i 8 2$ 9 5 53. POSTING TARIFF. The posting tariff is now the same as in Prussia (§ 49, p. 229). 12| Neu- groschen per horse each German m., and 15 N. gr. for a courier's horse. The long miles of Saxony arc also abandoned for the Prussian mile. 428 ROUTE 86. — FRANKFURT TO LEIPZIG. Sect. VII. ROUTE 86. FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN TO LEIPZIG, BY FULDA, EISENACH, GOTHA, ERFURT, AND "WEIMAR. Post-road from Frankfurt to Eisenach, 23 Germ. m. = 107^ Eng. m. Eilwa- gen daily in 21 hrs. By railway from Frankfurt to Cassel and Cassel to Eisenach (Rtes. 70, 92), the journey may he made in 10 hrs. Railway from Eisenach to Leipzig, hy Halle, Eisenach to Halle 25 Germ, m. = 116| Eng. m. Between Frankfurt and Leipzig the road passes through the territories of 7 different states. About 4 m. from Frankfurt it enters the Electorate of Hesse Cassel. rt. 1 m. The Elector has a chateau near Hanau, called Phillipsruhe, on the banks of the Main. There is a railway from Frankfurt to Hanau, — trains in 5 hr. by the Baths of Wilhelmsbad, occupying a deserted chateau in the midst of neglected gardens. They are resorted to by the Frankfurters ; their chief attractions are the walks in the wood. 2 Hanau. — Inns: Post; Riese, com- fortable though small, but dear. This is the most considerable town of Hesse after Cassel, having 15,000 inhab. ; it is situated near the junction of the Kinzig with the Main in the most fer- tile part of the Wetterau. It was de- fended by Ramsay, a Scotchman, for 9 months, against the Imperialists in the 30 Years' War. On quitting the town, the road passes the Battle-field of October 30 and 31, 1813, where Napoleon, retreating from Leipzig with the wreck of his army, cut his way through the Bavarians and Austrians. The loss of the allies exceeded that of the French ; it would have been greater, but for the manoeuvre of a miller, who, observing the German infantry hard pressed by a body of French cavalry, suddenly let the water into his mill- stream, between the two parties, and thus secured the retreat of his own friends. 3 Gelnhausen — {Inns : Hirsch ; Griiner Baum ; Sonne, a clean country inn) stands on the Kinzig, and has 3700 inhab. It was once an Imperial city of note, having been chosen as a residence by the Emp. Frederick Bar- barossa. The ruins of his Palace, built about 1144, still exist on an island in the Kinzig, in the lower part of the town, but are fast going to decay. The style of its architecture is that called by the Germans Byzantine, and shows, indeed, traces of an Eastern origin. The walls are of the most massive masonry. The chapel and the Imperial Hall (Reichssaal), where Barbarossa administered justice, deserve particular notice. On one side is a range of small round arches, supported by short pillars with foliated capitals ; on the other is the throne of Barbarossa, with singular bracketed columns, and ornaments re- sembling basket-work on the wall. The Cathedral also is interesting in an architectural point of view, as it was built 1210-1220, and shows the tran- sition from the round into the pointed style of Gothic, and proves the late introduction into Germany of the pointed style. It has many peculiar- ities, as — a twisted spire, a cupola, a mixture of round and pointed arches, wood- work, and old triptychs, a stone screen, with altar towards the nave. The doorways and capitals of the co- lumns are richly ornamented, and the windows are filled with fine stained glass. The remains of St. Peter's Ch. present an early example of the round arched style. The pass of Gelnhausen is one of the most important military points in Central Germany. The greater part of the next stage lies through a corner of Bavaria. 2£ Saahnunster. Inn: Post. Dollars and groschen here take the place of florins and kreutzers (§ 55), and the posting is paid for in them. 2 Schluchtern. Inn: Goldene Sonne. [14 m. to the E. lie the Baths of Briickenau, a much frequented water- ing-place. (See Handbook South Germany Rte. 169.) The road thither is improved, but is very hilly. The stage of 3 Germ. m. takes 3^ hrs. ; or 11 hrs. from Frankfurt.] 2 Neuhof. 1| Fulda. — Inns: Kurfurst (Elector), very fair ; Post, neat and comfortable, obliging people. A town of 14,000 in- Saxony. ROUTE 86. — EISENACH. WARTBURG. 429 hab. (2000 Protestants, 600 Jews), on the Fulda. The principal buildings are, the Cathedral, a handsome modern edifice, the 4th church which has stood on this site. Nothing remains of the old building but the crypt, containing the shrine of St. Boniface, in which was once deposited the body of the saint, a much revered relic, now reduced to a fragment of his skull. Here are two old figures of Charlemagne and of a Scottish princess on horseback, said to have been converted and brought over to Germany by St. Boniface ; also, in the sacristy, his crosier of ivory, and the dagger with which he was murdered by the Frisians, a. d. 754. The Palace was formerly the resi- dence of the prince-bishops, to whom Fulda belonged. A statue of St. Boni- face has been erected in the open space before it. St. Michael's is a very curious round church, of high antiquity, founded 822. The existing crypt, probably of that age, is supported in the centre by a stunted column, with a rude Ionic capital ; a circular passage surrounds it. The tower and Langhaus were built in 1092. Most of the monasteries have been turned to secular purposes. The old porcelain figures of Fulda are much esteemed. Eilwagen daily to Briickenau, to Cassel, and to Giessen. 2 Hiinfeld. Near the end of this stage the road quits Hesse Cassel, and enters Saxe Weimar. 2 Buttlar. — Inn, Post ; neat and good. Fine views of the broken ridge of the Rhongebirge from this. 1^ Vacha, an old town on the Werra. 2^ Marksuhl. The road now enters upon a portion of the Thiiringerwald (Thuringian Forest) ; a great portion of the country is covered with unbroken wood. On descending the last hill, to enter Eisenach, the castle of the Wart- burg, Luther's prison, is seen on the summit of a hill on the right. 2 Eisenach. — Inns : Rautenkranz (Rue Garland) ; Halbe Mond good. This is the principal town of the Thiir- ingerwald ; it is clean, thriving, and industrious (pop. 10,000), and is prettily situated, encircled by wooded hills. Sebastian Bach was born here. The oldest building is the Nicolaithurm, a tower and gate, the arch of which resembles Roman work, near the rail- way. A good carriage road, to be sur- mounted in ^ hr.'s walk, of con- tinued ascent, of 600 ft., leads to the Castle of Wartburg, the ancient residence of the Landgraves of Thuringia, but more remarkable as the asylum of Lu- ther from May 4, 1521, to March 6, 1522. It was while returning from the Diet of Worms, where he had so nobly stood forth in defence of his faith, unmoved by threats or cajoling, and, had thereby incurred the papal excom munication, that, on reaching the borders of the Thuringian forest, he was way- laid by a party of armed and vizored knights, his attendants dispersed, and himself made prisoner. So secretly was the capture effected, that no one knew for a time what had become of him ; even Luther himself, it is believed, at the moment of his seizure, was not aware that the whole was merely the device of his friend the Elector of Saxony, adopted with the view of rescuing him from the dangers which at that moment threatened his life. He was silently conveyed away to the Wartburg, where he passed for a young nobleman, wearing a suitable dress, allowing his mustaches to grow, and taking the name of Junker Georg (Squire George). During the time which he spent in this solitude, which he often calls his " Patmos," he wrote several works, and completed a large portion of his translation of the Bible. The Wartburg, whose oldest portion, recently brought to light, including a long range of Romanesque arcades, dates from the 12th cent., is by no means a picturesque castle, but it is finely situated, overlooking a wide range of wild forest-clad hills. The chamber which Luther inhabited is pointed out. His bedstead and chair have been car- ried away in chips by visitors as relics. His table has been prevented sharing the same fate by a strong iron band. He has himself described in his writings the attacks to which he was here sub- jected, in his solitary hours, from the Evil One, whom he is reported to have repulsed by throwing the inkstand at 430 EOUTE 86. — WARTBURG. GOTHA. Sect. VII. his head ; and, in confirmation of the tradition, the ink-spots were shown upon the plaster wall, which has, in consequence, been scraped away by the relic collectors. In another division of the castle is a very curious Armoury, in which are several beautiful suits of the 16th and 17th cent., and some attributed to the 13th or 14th. Many of the suits are assigned to great persons, such as Pope Julius II., and Henry II. of France, both finely worked; that of "Frederick with the bitten cheek" (so called because his mother, in the anguish of parting with him when a child, bit his cheek till the blood came), and of Lewis the Leaper. Here are shown the armour of Kunz of Kau- fungen, a robber knight of gigantic stature, who stole away two of the Saxon princes, and was beheaded at Freiberg ; two suits, said to have been worn by Kunegunde and Agnes, Saxon princesses and heroines ; the Constable d.e Bourbon's armour, which he wore at the moment of his death, while in the act of scaling the walls of Eome ; that of Feige von Bomsen; and of many dukes and landgraves of Thu- ringia. The Wartburg was the resi- dence of the pious St. Elizabeth of Thuringia, who, being discovered by her stingy husband distributing victuals to the poor from her apron, and being asked what she had there, replied, " Flowers." The husband, thinking to detect her in a falsehood, tore open the garment, and lo ! flowers fell out. By a miracle, to cover the pious fraud, and reward the lady's charity, the bread and cheese had been turned into roses and lilies! In 1207 the Minnesangers (Northern Troubadours) assembled on the "Wartburg to hold a trial of skill. In 1817, 500 riotous students collected here from different German universi- ties, chiefly from Jena, with several professors, and made some seditious and revolutionary speeches, which led to several arrests. The old castle has undergone repairs : a curious gallery of Byzantine arches in the upper story has been restored with care, and the hall has been covered with modern paintings relating to its history. Though the country of S axe-Eisen- ach belongs to Weimar, it is separated from the rest of that duchy by Saxe- Gotha and a part of Prussia. From Eisenach Railways run to Halle (Thuringische Eisenbahn) on the Berlin and Leipzig railway; and to Cassel, see Bte. 92. Frottstedt Stat. Gotha Stat. — Inns : Der Mohr (Moor), good, on the high road on the outskirts of the town ; Deutscher Hof ; Der Biese, in the market-place. Gotha, the chief town of the duchy, and, alternately with Coburg, the resi- dence of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg, has a population of 14,000 souls (100 Bo- man Catholics). Schloss Friedenstein is a large, but not a handsome building, conspicuous on a height, 1150 ft. above the sea- level, surrounded by terraces com- manding fine views. It contains, 1st, a Picture Gallery, not of first-rate ex- cellence, but including many good by Cranach, who lived at Gotha ; Holbein, portraits of the Sulzer family ; V. Eyck, portrait of Philip of Burgundy; L. v. Ley den, Judith and Holofernes ; and Dutch pictures, particularly a female portrait by Van der Heist ; Rembrandt' s Mother; Rubens' "Wife; and 2 Van Goyens ; 2 little Saxon princes, sup- posed to be Ernst and Albert ; a screen of A. Diirer's school; some good small specimens of ancient Florentine paint- ing ; and a portrait of Agnes von Mans- feld. The cabinet of engravings is large and excellent. In the Kunstkammer may be seen the swords of Charle- magne and Sobieski ; the prayer-book of James I. and .A Tine of Denmark, bound by Cellini; a ring of Mary Stuart ; Louis XIY.'s head on an ame- thyst ; fine gold-mounted nautili ; and some capital figures executed in wood. Among the gems is a Medusa's head in sardonyx, &c. 2nd, a Library of 150,000 vols., including the collection of 2000 MSS. made in the East by Seetzen, many of them very valuable. 3rd, a Museum of Natural History, in- teresting : the specimens of cheirothe- rium, mammoth, and amber are fine. 4th, Coins and Medals, very extensive Saxony. ROUTE 86. — GOTHA. ERFURT. 431 and complete ; one of the finest collec- tions of the kind in Europe. 5th, a Japanese and Chinese Museum, contains many curiosities seldom seen in Eu- rope ; such as rare Chinese and Japan- ese books, articles of furniture, wea- pons, &c. Among the porcelain are specimens of Bottichcr's (of Dresden) first attempts. These collections are shown gratis on Tues. and Frid., 10 to 3, from April 1 to Oct. 31 : at other times for a fee of 1 dollar. At such times the Gardens and Terraces adjoining the palace, and the Boule- vards round the town, are agreeable promenades. In the Ducal Palace is a collection of modem pictures ; among them Wapper's (the Belgian) Charles IX. firing on the Huguenots, &c. &c. Near it is the Stable (Marstall). The Almanack de Gotha is the title of a pocketbook printed here, which gives the names, ages, and pedigrees of all the reigning princes of Europe and their families. Berghaus's maps and charts, pub- lished by Perthes, are very excellent. A porcelain manufactory, formerly in some estimation, is carried on here. There are many pleasant Excursions in the neighbourhood, but its beauties are perhaps somewhat exaggerated by the natives. A visit to Reinhardsbrunn (9 m.), a ducal country seat, in the form of a Gothic chateau, erected on the site of an ancient Benedictine ab- bey, destroyed in the Peasants' War, 1525, is particularly recommended to strangers who can spare 5 or 6 hours to such a detour. Several curious old monuments of Saxon princes are placed in the Chapel. The country about it resembles a beautiful park. The In- selsberg, 1\ hrs' walk from this, com- mands from its top a finer view than any other mountain of the Thmingian range. Schnepfenthal, the celebrated institution for education (Erziehungs Anstalt) of Mr. Salzmann, is on the road. At Siebleben, about \ m. out of the town, on the way to Erfurt, Grimm, author of the ' Correspond- ence,' is buried. On the summit of a hill to the right is seen the Observatory of Seeberg, formerly the residence of Baron Zach, the astronomer. The rail- way skirts the foot of the hill crowned by" the Dietendorf Stat. : hero is a Mo- ravian colony. The Hamster rat inci^eascs at times to such an enormous extent in the Thu- ringerwald as to become a plague. In 1817-18, 200,000 were taken in the neighbourhood of Gotha. On the rt. may be seen the 3 castles called the Drei Gleichen. They are of great antiquity, and belonged to differ- ent owners, but were all struck with lightning in 1250. Muhlberg is a total ruin, except its donjon tower. Gleichen is in a better state of preservation, the roof remaining in part : the Wachsenburg is still entire. They are situated in the most beautiful part of Thuringia. Beyond this, about half-way between Gotha and Erfurt, we cross the boun- dary of Prussia. At a little distance from the walls of Erfurt the strong citadel of Cyriaksburg is passed. Erfurt Stat. — Inns : Silber's Hotel ; am Bahnof, near the Stat., well con- ducted ; — G. C. zum Kaiser, great civility, — F. 1850 ; Weisses Ross. This very old town was at one time capital of Thuringia (Thuringen) ; it now be- longs to Prussia, and is a fortress of se- cond class, very important from its situ- ation on the great high road of Central Europe. The fort Petersberg within the walls, and the citadel of Cyriaksburg without, contribute to its strength. It is a dull and inanimate town on the Gera, exhibiting marks of decay, and its popu- lation has shrunk to 27,000 ; not more than half of what it once possessed (7000 Rom. Catholics). It has a gar- rison of 4000 men. The Bom (Cathedral), well situated on an eminence, and originally a fine Gothic structure, has been seriously in- jured by war ; but the King of Prussia has expended considerable sums in re- pairing it, and the work has been well done. The choir dates from 1353, the nave from 1472. The 2 stately towers are of the 12th cent. It possesses a famous bell, called Grosse Susanna, weighing 275 cwt. The 1ST. portal, which is. double, resembles the porch of Ratisbon, and is much admired. The altars on the 1. as you enter arc very elegant. Observe a bronze bas- 432 ROUTE 86. — ERFURT. WEIMAR. Sect, VII. relief, attached to the monument of Canon Henning Goden, of the Corona- tion of the Virgin, hy Peter Vischer of Nuremberg, a highly finished work : the monument of a Count von Gleichen with his 2 wives. Within the choir, which is very fine, is a very old bronze candelabrum, representing a penitent holding tapers, with an inscription not satisfactorily explained. The stalls are partly ancient. There is a very good Holy Family, by L. Cranach, and a still older painting, perhaps by Van Eyck, on the door of a reliquary in the wall : the cloister is good, but ruinous. The view from the top of the tower will well repay for the ascent. In the Barfiissefkirche is a carved altar-piece of the Coronation of the Virgin, with statues of the Apostles. The interior of the Predigerkirche (1228) is very fine. In the Ch. of St. Severus, distinguished by its 3 spires, near the Dom, over an altar, is a fine high relief of the archangel Michael, of excellent workmanship, and a richly decorated font, date 1467. There is one object of particular in- terest here : it is Luther's Cell in the Augustine convent. The building is now converted into an Orphan House, called Martinsstift, but his apartment is preserved as nearly as possible in its original condition, and contains his portrait, Bible, and other relics. He entered the convent as a monk, July 17, 1505, in consequence of a vow made 14 days before, on the death of a friend who was struck by lightning at his side. Here he spent several years of his life : at the altar in the chapel he read his first mass, and here, per- haps in this very cell, he first studied the Bible, of which he never saw a copy until he was 20 years old, when he picked one up, by accident, in a corner of the library. In the neighbouring Augustine church the Erfurt Parliament held its meetings, 1850. In the Fishmarket, in front of the Pathhaus (erected 1259,) stands a Polandsdule. (See note, p. 375.) The fortifications and the Walks outside of these command fine views of the town and its numerous spires. The Steiger is the most frequented walk ; you reach it through market-gardens, singularly irri- gated. Schropp's models of Gothic build- ings, &c, are worth seeing. The University of Erfurt was sup- pressed in 1816, and of the numerous convents which existed here till very recently one only remains, the Ursuline Nunnery. It is worth visiting, as an interesting specimen of a monastic esta- blishment. The sisters employ them- selves in teaching a school. From the 14th to the 16th cent. Erfurt was a Hanse Town, and a staple place of the trade of a great part of Europe. The great commercial high- way between the Baltic and the Hanse Towns on the one hand, and Italy and Venice on the other, lay through Augs- burg, Nuremberg, Erfurt, and Bruns- wick, to Lubeck and Danzig. A congress of sovereigns was assem- bled at Erfurt, 1807, by Napoleon, who resided in the palace of Count Dalberg. The Electors of Mayence were Stadt- holders of Erfurt at one time. Shortly after leaving Erfurt the rail- road quits the Prussian dominions, and enters Saxe-Weimar. Weimar Stat. — Inns: Erbprinz, im- proved; Piussischer Hof, best; Ele- phant. Weimar, situated on the Ilm, is the residence of the Grand Duke of Saxe-Weimar, and capital of his domi- nions; it has 13,000 inhab. To a stranger it will probably appear a dull and provincial-looking town. It has no trade to give it activity, nor can the presence of a court supply this want. It has also lost its claim to its former appellation of The Athens of the Worth since the deaths of Schiller, Gothe, Wieland, Herder, and other men of genius and learning, who, though not natives of the duchy, resided here by invitation of the former Grand Duke, and conferred a lustre on his court and capital. There are few sights at Weimar to detain a traveller. The chief buildings are the Stadtkirche (town ch., built 1400). The altar-piece of the Cruci- fixion, by Lucas Cranach, is one of his finest works ; it contains portraits of the artist himself near the cross, and of his friends Luther and Melancthon : Saxony. route 86. — weimar. palace and gardens. 433 44 members of the Ducal Family of Saxe Weimar are interred here. The most illustrious among them is the Grand Duke Bernard, the brave general of the XXX Years' War, the ally of Gustavus Adolphus, and second to him only among all the Protestant leaders. His grave has no other distinction than a simple brass plate. A tablet in the pavement bearing the name of Herder, marks the spot where that eminent writer is buried, and a bronze statue of him, by Schaller, stands in front of the Ch. He lived in a corner house, close to (N. of) the Ch. In the Cemetery of the Schloss Kirche, or Ch. of St. James, is the tomb of Lucas Cranach (d. 1553). The mason who carved his epitaph has written Victor celerrimus, instead of celeberri- mus ; it can hardly be said by mistake, because both epithets are equally de- served, from the number as well as merits of the works he has left behind. In the same place are the graves of Musseus the poet (d. 1787), and of Bodseus. The Palace is a handsome building, tastefully furnished, but not otherwise remarkable. A suit of apartments has been decorated by modern artists, Neher, Preller, &c, with frescoes, illustrating the works of Schiller, Gothe, Herder, and Wieland. Duke Bernard's armour is kept in one of the rooms ; and be- side it, in a box, one of his fingers, which was cut off in an encounter with an enemy, and afterwards preserved and carried about by its owner. Near the palace is the Public Library, in a circular tower, once a powder- magazine. Within it are several por- traits of eminent persons by L. Cranach and other artists; colossal busts of Schiller, by Dannecker, and of Gothe, by David; busts of Herder and Wie- land. There are also a few relics of great men, such as the black gown worn by Luther when a monk ; Gus- tavus Adolphus' s leather belt, pierced by the bullet which caused his death at Lutzen. In the market-place is a hand- some modern Gothic Rathhaus, built 1841. The house of Gothe, in which he died (1832), is in the Frauenplatz. The [n. g.J interesting relics of him, and the col- lections which he left behind, are no longer shown to the public. The fur- niture was of a very homely descrip- tion : in his study were a common deal table (at which he wrote, which be- longed to Schiller), his desk, and stool. He never had an arm-chair until he was 80. His drawing-room was deco- rated with casts from the antique, with models and drawings by the old mas- ters. The small house of Schiller is also pointed out in the Esplanade. The Theatre was once under Gothe' s and Schiller's management. The per- formances and music are still tolerable. The audience has the oharacter of a large family party : females come and go unattended, and ladies need appear in no finer costume than a bonnet and morning dress. The play is generally over by nine. In the New Churchyard, beyond the Frauenthor, beneath a small chapel, is the Grand Ducal burial-vault. Gothe and Schiller are here interred. The late Duke, Charles Augustus, their patron and friend, intended that their remains should have been deposited on each side of him, but it appeared that courtly etiquette would not permit this proximity, and they have therefore been placed in one oorner, at a respectful distance. Hummel the composer is also buried here. The apparatus used to prevent premature interment, is curious (§ 45), and^should be seen. The grounds belonging to the Palace are laid out in a Park and Gardens, ex- tending along the pleasant banks of the Ilm. They are much esteemed by the inhabitants as a promenade. Within them is situated the summer residence of Gothe. The park communicates, by an avenue, with the summer villa called Belvedere (2 m.), commanding a fine view, and having a hothouse, con- servatory, and fine garden attached to it. Another chateau of the Grand Duke is prettily situated at Tieffurt : It is worth a visit. It contains an im- mense quantity of rococo of all descrip- tions. The kitchen is lined with old Dutch tiles, and the dressers covered with all sorts of game, fruit, fish, &c, in porcelain, delf, and papier-mache. U 434 ROUTE 86. — NAUMBURG. WEISSENFELS. Sect. VII. Eilwagen daily to Jena, Gera, and Altenburg. About 12 m. E. of Weimar is Jena, remarkable for its University. (See Rte. 94 a.) There is a direct road from Weimar by Jena and Altenburg to Dresden, passing Freiberg, or to Carlsbad, (Rtes, 91 and 90.) Apolda Stat, Wieland's grave is at Ossmanstadt, 5 m,, on the way to Jena from Weimar, in the midst of his garden. The field of the battle of Auerstddt, or Jena, so disastrous to Prussia, 14 Oct. 1806, lies near Hassenhausen, 3 m. S. of the railroad, between the Apolda Stat, and Naumburg, A small pillar has been erected by the King of Prussia in a field to the S, of the road, between Eckhardsberge and Naumburg, to mark the spot where the Duke of Brunswick was mortally wounded, Suiza Stat. Some way beyond this the Duchy of Saxe Weimar terminates, and Prussia is entered. Between Suiza and Naumburg, the road traverses the narrow and pic- turesque defile of the Saale. In it are situated the salt-works, baths, and mineral springs of Kosen, the approach to which is singular and picturesque ; on the right, high above the Saale, is the Castle Saaleck, The baths are sup- plied from the brine, or mother liquor, left in the pans when nearly all the salt has been extracted. Close to the railroad lies the curious village Schulpforta, whose Church is a noble Gothic building (the choir, 1251- 68), and in whose School, 300 years old, Klopstock and Lessing were edu- cated. 2 1 Naumburg Stat., at some distance from the town. Jnns: S'achsischer Hof ; Blauer Hecht, in the town ; Preussischar Hof, good, in the suburbs. Naumburg' is an industrious town, of 12,650 inhab,, beautifully situated in the valley of the Saale, in the midst of an amphitheatre of hills covered with vines and dotted with country-houses. The Cathedral is a remarkable Gothic edifice, with double choir at the E. and W. ends. The nave, transepts, crypt, and part of towers are Romanesque. The W. choir is pointed in the purest style ; the sta- tues of the founders against the pillars are very fine works of the 13th century. The W. roodloft is also of the best period of the pointed Gothic. The crucifix is placed underneath, in the doorway ; the front is ornamented with bas-reliefs. The E. roodloft is Roman- esque, with round arches, a rare ex- ample of the style. In the Ch. of St. Wenzel (Stadtkirche) is a picture of Christ blessing the chil- dren, by Cranach. Naumburg was a place of great im- portance during the Thirty Years' War, and in the campaigns of 1806 and 1813. Here were the Prussian magazines. Napoleon having turned the flank of the Prussian army, seized the town, and this proved one of the main causes of the disastrous defeat at Jena. This town was again occupied by the French, previously to the battle of Lutzen, 1 May, 1813, and its possession was long and fiercely contested between the French and Russians. After the route of Leipzig, the Allies having occupied Naumburg, Napoleon was obliged to turn aside towards Freiburg, on the Unstrut, out of the main road, the de- files near Naumburg being occupied with cannon, Naumburg and Weissenfels are among the most northern points in Europe where Vineyards are planted; but the greater part of the wine pro- duced from them so nearly resembles vinegar, that it is chiefly profitable when sold as such, or when distilled to make brandy. The castles of Schonburg and Go- seek are seen on the left, before reach- ing. 2~ Weissenfels Stat. In a country- house near the Stat., marked with an N., Napoleon slept the night after the battle of Leipzig. Jnns : Drei Schwane, good ; zum Schutzen, good. Is a town of 10,000 inhab., on the Saale. The many- windowed Schloss on the height to the S.W, of the town, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Weissenfels, is now a barrack. The dead body of Gustavus Adolphus was brought hither after the battle of Lutzen, and embalmed in a room of the Town-house (Amtshaus), in the presence of Bernard of Saxe Weimar. It is re- Saxony. ROUTE 86. — ROSSBACH. LUTZEN". 435 corded that his heart weighed 1 lb. 2 oz. ; that the body bore the marks of 8 wounds, i. e. 5 gunshots, 2 cuts, 1 stab. A part of the wall, which was stained with his blood, is still preserved from external contact. His widowed queen repaired hither to receive the body. The heart was instantly con- veyed to Stockholm ; but the bowels are interred in the Kloster Kirche, in "Weissenfels. Corbetha Stat. About 5 m. "W". of this is Bossbach, the scene of one of Fre- derick the Great's most memorable and unexpected victories, which he gained with an army of only 22,000 Prussians over 60,000 French and Austrians under Soubise, Nov. 5, 1757. The King directed his manoeuvres, previously un- rivalled in military tactics, from the castle of Rossbach. From the ridge on which it stands he despatched Sedlitz, at the head of his cavalry, to sweep down the French in successive charges, so as to drive them from the field in less than half an hour. The enemy, previously certain of victory, had directed their chief efforts to prevent the escape of Frederick, and had weakened their line by so doing, which caused their defeat. 2£ Merseburg Stat. (Inns : Sonne ; Arm ; Hof ), a town of great archi- tectural interest, with a chateau and a fine Gothic Cathedral on a rock over- looking the river; the choir built in 1200, the nave 1500; having a rich portal, and containing the tomb of the rival Emperor Rudolph of Swabia, 1080, killed in combat with Henry IV. 2 Halle Stat. Railroad thence to Leipzig. (See Rte. 63.) The direct post road to Leipzig from Weissenfels, avoiding the circuit by Halle, passes through Liitzen. In the defile of Rippach, 3 m. from Liitzen, Marshal Bessieres was killed in a skirmish the day before the battle of 2nd May, 1813. 2 Liitzen. Inns not good. A small village, whose name would never have been heard of, but for the great battles fought in its vicinity. About a mile out of the town, by the side of the high road to Leipzig, a rude unsquared block of granite, one of the most south- ern of those mysterious boulders which have been transported from the moun- tains of Scandinavia, is set up, shaded by a few poplars, and further distin- guished by a Gothic canopy of cast iron, raised over it in 1838. This is called the stone of the Swede (Schu-e- denstein), and marks the spot where Gustavus Adolphus fell, in the midst of the battle of Liitzen, 6 Nov. 1632. This was one of the most fiercely con- tested engagements recorded in history. In the course of it, Piccolomini had seven horses killed under him, and Pappenheim was mortally wounded, and died the next day at Leipzig, while their colleague, the Imperial General- issimo Wallenstein rode unhurt through a shower of balls. The Swedish cavalry fought long and bravely for the possession of the corse of their sove- reign, and at last bore it off triumph- antly to the church of the neighbouring village of Meuchen. Liitzen is also memorable for a more recent battle, £&&*? s "'ithe 2nd of May, 1813, between Napoleon and the Allies. The former maintained possession of the field, but gained no other material advantage, after a bloody engagement. The Prussian General Scharnhorst died of a wound received on this occasion ; Blucher was also severely wounded. The Prussians have named this battle after the village of Gross-Gorschen, a little to the S. of Liitzen, and near which and Kaia the field of battle lies. This was the first occasion in which they measured their strength success- fully with the French, after the fatal battle of Jena. The campaign of 1813 was fought over a great portion of the same ground as that of 1806 ; the same posts were contested and defended, but with very different results. Napoleon, who was successful in the first instance, suf- fered, in the neighbourhood of Leip- zig, the most decisive defeat. On the 2nd occasion, the operations of that memorable battle of the 17th, 18th, and 19th of October, 1813, extended to a distance of nearly 10 m. on all sides of Leipzig. The Prussian territory terminates u 2 436 EOUTE 86. LEIPZIG. Sect. VII. 3 m. beyond Liitzen. Markt-Banstadt is the first town in Saxony. In the castle of Alt-Ranstadt, Charles XII. fixed his head-quarters after the con- quest of Saxony by his army and the dethronement of Augustus. Hence he called on the cabinets of Europe to acknowledge Stanislaus Leczinsky, the monarch whom he had placed on the throne. The Duke of Marlborough here visited the youthful monarch on a secret mission, and complimented him by expressing a wish to serve a cam- paign under so great a general. Within the suburbs of Leipzig the road crosses the bridge over the river Elster, which was blown up, towards the end of the battle of October 19, soon after Napoleon had crossed it, and while a large portion of his retreating army was still on the opposite side. This mistake caused the capture of 25,000 French soldiers, and the death of many hundreds, who, with waggons, cannon, and horses, were precipitated into the Elster by the rush and pres- sure which ensued. The most lamented and eminent of those who thus perished was Poniatowski. His monument, near the spot where his body was found, stands in Gerhard's garden, on the right, before entering the town. (See p. 438.) 2f Leipzig. — Inns : H. de Baviere, very good indeed ; H. de Pologne, a huge house, new 1850, near the mar- ket-place ; H. de Bussie ; Blumenberg, well situated ; all 4 are lst-class hotels : H. dePrusse, Napoleon's quarters 1813 ; H. de Saxe ; Stadt Bom, near the Dresden Bly. ; Bheinischer Hof ; the two last moderate 2nd-class inns. Dur- ing the Fair the charge for a room is double the ordinary price, or a dollar, instead of 12 g. grosch. Aeckerlein's Bestauration, in the Market-place, is very good. Fetsche's Coffee-house is prettily situated. Carriages are sent from the different inns to convey tra- vellers to and from the railways — charge 5 S. gr. Fiacres ply also. Leipzig is built on the small rivers Elster and Pleisse, and has 62,245 inhab. and 2000 houses ; it is a place of considerable historical celebrity, and of greater commercial importance j yet it is likely that it will appear dull to the traveller in search of amuse- ment, unless he happens to visit it during the Fair (when it is seen to great advantage), as it has neither very fine buildings nor remarkable collec- tions to arrest the attention. The town, formerly confined within walls, has now removed its gates, and thrown out fine suburbs beyond — proof of increasing prosperity. About 1000 new houses were built between 1840-51. Three Fairs are held here annually ; — at Easter (Oster Messe, beginning on the 2nd Sunday after Easter), which is the most important. At Michaelmas (beginning 1st Sunday after Michaelmas day), and the Neujahr Messe (begin- ning on New Year's day), the least im- portant. . They last three weeks, and while they continue, Leipzig is the mart and exchange of central Europe, and is visited by merchants and foreigners from the most distant parts of the globe, sometimes to the number of its actual population. The money transactions at one time amounted to 80 millions of dollars annually, though of late they have fallen short of this sum. The streets and squares are then occupied by temporary booths, in addi- tion to the ordinary shops, in which goods of all kinds are exposed for sale. Every hotel and lodging-house is filled to overflowing ; the streets are thronged with strange costumes and faces ; Jews from Poland, Tyrolese, Americans, and even Persians from Teflis, Armenians, Turks, and Greeks, are mingled to- gether as in a masquerade, and most of the countries of Europe send repre- sentatives hither with their produce. 300 or 400 guests sit down daily to the tables-d'hote of some of the principal hotels ; gardens and coffee-houses are thronged. The sale of books forms one of the most important branches of commerce here ; it alone is said to amount to 10 millions of francs yearly. In fact, the whole book-trade of Germany is centred on the spot, and every bookseller in Germany and the adjoining countries has an agent here. 600 booksellers sometimes assemble at the Easter Fair, to settle their annual accounts and pur- Saxony. ROUTE 86. — LEIPZIG. UNIVERSITY. 437 chases, and there are 130 residents and 30' printing-offices. They have an Ex- change of their own, called the Deutsche BuclJidndler Bdrse, where they meet and transact business. Leipzig is likewise celebrated for its University, the oldest in Germany after that of Prague, having been founded in 1409 by German Seceders from the Bo- hemian University. Several buildings near the Grimma gate are appropriated to its use, the chief of them being the Augusteum, finished 1836, from Schin- kel's design, and containing the Library of 100,000 vols., including a beautifully illuminated Hebrew MS. 12th cent., a collection of autographs (Letter of Sir T. More to Erasmus), early woodcuts and black books ; the Paulinum, wherein the museums of natural history and anatomy are deposited, and the Filrsten Collegium. It numbers about 60 pro- fessors, 70 private teachers, and 800 students. " This is one of the few scholastic establishments on the Con- tinent which has retained its own landed estates, most of the others hav- ing been stripped within the last 50 years, and being now supported by annual grants. In other respects, also, it resembles our English universities ; 1 commons ' being kept for 300 students, who demand it on the plea of poverty, with a small additional subscription of 2 gros. a week ' for pepper, vinegar, and salt' from those who participate." — L.M.r. " The Town Library, in a very long and striking room, besides European works, has a remarkable collection of Oriental MSS. ; many Turkish books obtained by the Germans in their vic- tories over the Turks in Hungary, such as pay lists, officers' commissions, dating from 1683, when Sobieski res- cued Vienna; a portion of an almost unequalled Koran which belonged to a mosque at Sultanieh, and another brought from a mosque at Buda, when that city was Mahommedan." — L.M.r. St. Nicholas is the finest church in the town (date 1525), but its archi- tecture is of questionable taste, rather overloaded with ornament. The pic- tures of (Eser arc not very interesting. The Ileilige Dreifaltigkeits Kirche, built from designs of Heideloff, is a very fair specimen of modern Gothic, and is worth entering. The GreatMarket-place is picturesque, from the quaint architecture of its buildings, particularly of the Town House (Bathhaus) built 1556, on one side of it. In this square the allied sovereigns met after the battle of Leip- zig. The house caUed Konigshaus, be- cause formerly inhabited by the Elec- tors and Kings of Saxony on their visits to the town, was occupied by Napoleon during the battle ; here he had his last interview with the king, who was afterwards detained prisoner in it by the Allies as an adherent of Napoleon, and here Marshal Schwar- zenberg, the general of the allied army, died in 1820. Next door to it is Auerbach's Cellar, a vault under an old house near the market-place, where beer and wine are sold, and where, ac- cording to tradition, the famous magi- cian, Dr. Faustus, performed his feats, which are represented in 2 rude daubs on the walls. Gothe has laid in this cellar a scene of his tragedy of Faust, in which the drunken students are sup- plied by Mephistophiles with various kinds of wine, out of holes bored with a gimlet in the table. It is said that the poet, as well as his hero, not un- frequently caroused here while a student. The New Post Office in the Bahnhof and Dresdener Strasse, Grinimaische Vorstadt, is the finest building here, after the Augusteum. Beyond it is the Ch. Yard of St. John, containing the graves of some remarkable men, Gellert, Spohn,Bosenmiiller, Politz, &c. The lover of art may visit with plea- sure the collections of pictures belonging to the Stddtische Museum (modern German and French) : — of Mr. H. Schletter, Peter-st. (admission 15 S. gr.), and that of Baron Speck (formerly a wool-merchant), at his seat Liitz- schena, 5 m. from Leipzig, which con-, tains some very fine things ; Hemling's Salutation ; Reubens — Portrait of a Prior ; Rembrandt, a portrait ; v. der Heist, portrait of a female ; Murillo y . Madonna and Child ; Diirer, portrait of a young woman. 438 ROUTE 86. — LEIPZIG. Sect. VII. The Castle of Pleissenburg, the an- cient citadel at the S.E. angle of the city walls, withstood the attacks of Tilly during the Thirty Years' War, several weeks after the town had sur- rendered. The, lower part of it is now turned into a wool warehouse, and the tower into an Observatory, from the top of which a good view may he ob- tained of the town. The surrounding country is flat, hut it is interesting as the scene of the memorable battle of Leipzig, distinguished by the Germans as the Volkerschlacht, " Battle of the Nations." It was one of the longest, sternest, and bloodiest actions of the war, and one of the largest battles re- corded in history, from the number of troops engaged, amounting to 176,000 on the side of Napoleon, and 300,000 on that of the Allies, with 1600 cannon, and the space of ground over which the operations extended ; and it decided the fate of Europe. After the conflict had raged for 3 days in the vicinity of Leipzig, on the 19th October, 1813, it reached up to the very walls, and cannon balls fell in showers in the streets. On the morning of that day, Napoleon and part of his army passed through the town, quitting it on one side almost at the moment when the Allies entered it on the other. Indeed it is doubtful whether the emperor himself would have escaped, but for the bravery of Macdonald and Ponia- towski in covering his retreat, and for the premature blowing up of the bridge beyond the Eanstadt gate, at the mo- ment when many of the French troops were in the act of passing, and thou- sands remained behind. This event, whether designed or accidental, caused the death of Poniatowski, and many hundreds of less note ; the spot where he was drowned may be discerned from the tower. It is situated in M. Ger- hard's (formerly Pcichenbach's) Garden, just beyond the walls, and is marked by a small and humble stone monument close to the margin of the Elster, a mere ditch in size, but at the time of the battle so choked up with bodies of men and horses, dead, dying, or strug- gling to cross, that the sorry steed on which he was mounted, his own having been killed under him, was unable , to swim among them. The brave Pole, already twice wounded, and borne down in the throng, sunk in attempting the passage. Macdonald, better mounted, passed it in safety nearly at the same spot. In another part of the garden is a stone tomb, with inscriptions in Polish and Latin, erected by the soldiers of his regiment to their commander, on the spot where his body was found 4 days after. Here is a model of Thorwald- sen's statue of him; the original, set up at Warsaw, has disappeared. The road to Grim ma (towards the S.E.) leads over the most interesting portion of the field of battle. Napoleon remained the whole day on an eminence rt. of the road, near Stotteritz, now marked by a clump of trees. Propstheide, a village 1 m. further, was the key of the French position. The Allies were aided by a British rocket-corps, whose com- mander, Captain Bowyer, B.A., was killed. The keeper of the Observatory will give every information respecting the battle, and point out all the interesting spots. An excellent account, with plans of the battle, has been published (1850) by Col. the Hon. Geo. Cathcart. There is nothing more agreeable here than the Gardens round the city walls, and between them and the suburbs. The entire circuit of these walks may be made in § of an hour, and it will be found they are not surpassed in any town of Germany, especially in the part near the Grimma Gate. Rosenthal, a park outside the town, to the N.W., is much frequented in' summer. Leibnitz, the philosopher, who was a native of Leipzig, used to study and meditate in it. Leipzig is famed for 2 delicacies of the table, larks and apples ; the last are named from the neighbouring -village of Borsdorf. A British Consicl - General resides here. The shop of Mr. Friedrich Fleischer is well situated, and furnished with the best European literature in various lan- guages, including Giudes for Travellers. Railroads. — Terminus on the N.E. side of the town — to Magdeburg ; to Berlin; to Dresden. Terminus on Saxony. ROUTE 87. LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN. 439" the S. side of the town — to Hof, Bam- berg, and Nuremberg ; with a branch to Zwickau. Schnellposts daily to Chemnitz ; to Merseburg ; to Annaberg, Chemnitz, and Liitzcn. ROUTE 87. LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN. — RAILROAD. 15f Germ. m.=72 Eng. m. Trains in 3^- hours. Terminus in Leipzig, be- tween the Halle and Grimma gates. From Leipzig the railway runs pa- rallel with the high road, and at a short distance from it, as far as Oschatz, crossing it twice. Both roads, on quitting Leipzig, tra- verse a portion of the Battle-field of 1813 (p. 438). During an engagement between Ney and the Crown Prince of Sweden, near the village of Paunsdorf on the post-road, the Saxons went over to the side of the Allies. The river Mulda is crossed by a bridge of 19 arches, shortly before reaching. 3£ Wurzen Stat., a town of 3000 in- hab. 2^ Luppa Dahlen Stat. . The vale of Dollnitz is traversed on a lofty viaduct on approaching 1J Oschatz Stat, (Inn, Lowe), a town of 5000 inhab., surrounded by ancient fortifications. Its Church — rebuilt after a fire in 1842, from Heidcloffs designs — has two tall towers with open spires, 276 ft. high. In the neighbouring Chateau of Hubertsburg the treaty of peace, which terminated the Seven Years' War, was concluded, 1763, be- tween Frederick the Great and the Em- press Maria Theresa. The building is now converted into a pottery. 2 Biesa Stat. (Good Restaurant.) Here is the junction of the direct rail- way line from Berlin to Dresden. This little town lies on the 1. bank of the Elbe. On quitting the station we leave the post road on the rt., and traverse the Elbe on a bridge of 9 arches, and then follow the rt. bank of the river for a short distance, crossing the long viaduct of Rodcreau, which rests on 64 piers. About 10 m. N.W. of Ricsa, on the Elbe, is Muhlberg, where the battle was fought, in 1547, when the Protestants under John Frederick, Elector of Sax- ony, were defeated by Charles V.^ and their leader made prisoner, and com- pelled to throw himself at his con- queror's feet. 2i Pristewitz Stat A tunnel, the only one on the line, about 500 yards long, is traversed at Oberau. Near this (rt.) a glimpse is obtained of the town of Meissen, on the opposite side of the Elbe, 4 m. off. Postwagen go thither from Niederau Stat, several times a day. [Meissen. {Inns: Sonne, the best, but dirty and dear ; — Hirsch.) A town of 5000 inhab., prettily situated on the S. bank of the Elbe, which is here crossed by a bridge. The old Castle on the precipitous rock above the town, formerly the resi- dence of the Saxon princes, is now con- verted into a porcelain manufactory, in which the famous Dresden China is made. The view from it on all sides is charming, and its Gothic architecture presents much that is worthy of admira- tion, especially in the two elegant cork- screw staircases, the vaulting of the ceilings, the cross room, and a poly- gonal turret room ; the windows are of a curious late Gothic, inclining in shape to those of Batalha and St. Mary's Red- cliffe. China ware or porcelain was originally brought from the country after which it is named, and was first made in Europe at this place, in 1710, by one Botticher, an alchemist, who, after wasting a great deal of the gold of his patron (Augustus I., King of Poland and Elector of Saxony) in his search for the philosopher's stone, stumbled, by accident, upon a more sure method of producing the precious metals by the discovery of an art which has served to enrich his countrymen. This manu- factory, so celebrated in the time of Augustus II., received its death-blow in the Seven Years' War, being then plundered, and its workmen and models, along with the archives, carried away by Fredeiick the Great. It continued to enjoy royal patronage at a heavy expense to the private purse of the 440 ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. Sect. VII. Saxon Sovereign, but the King has lately ceded it to the Government. It is now carried on for profit, and cheap- ness being the object, it now makes a revenue, but the articles made are very inferior to those of former times. The managers of the establishment are very civil in showing it to strangers, who will find here a very large assortment of articles for sale or inspection. Contiguous to the manufactory is the Bom, a beautiful Gothic Church, begun in the 13th and continued to the 15th cent., with an exquisite spire of open work. The interior is remarkable for the purity of its style. The receptacle for the sacrament near the altar is very elaborately carved in stone. The painted glass in its windows, the Descent from the Cross by L. Cranach, in which are introduced the portraits of Luther, his wife, and his friend the Elector, a painting by A. Diirer, and the roodloft, are worth notice. Attached to the W. end is the Prince's vault (Furstengruft), where many early princes of the Saxon house are interred, including the 2 princes Ernest and Albert, the founders of the Royal and Ducal lines of Saxony. Here are some fine brasses, like those of Breslau and Freiberg, a bronze monument of Friederich der Streitbar is the most remarkable. A Tunnel — a gigantic work, 24 m. long — has been in progress many years from the level of the Elbe at Meissen to Freiberg, in order to drain the silver mines around that town, which have been for ages choked with water.] Beyond Mederau as far as Dresden the railway runs at the foot of a range of hills, covered with vineyards, slop- ing down to the Elbe, producing, under skilful management, a tolerable wine, and dotted over with elegant villas and country-houses . The high road from Meissen to Dresden is crossed at Kbswig. rt. On a height is seen the tower of the castle of Weistrupp, retreat of the Duke of Lucca, who abdicated in favour of his son 1849. 1. lies Lossnitz, where is a large manufactory of champagne ! 2 Dresden Terminus in the Neu- stadt, on the rt. bank of the Elbe. Fiacres and omnibuses are ready to convey passengers to all parts of the town, for 10 and 5 neu groschen. Dresden. — Inns : H. de Saxe, in the Neu Markt, very good. The three principal floors are carpeted from Oc- tober till the end of May. — H. de Pologne, Schlossgasse — Table d'hote good. British Hotel, good, well furnished ; — Stadt Bom, in the Neu Markt : the above are very good inns, nearly equal in merit. — H. de France, Wilsdi-uffer Gasse, good. Table d'hote, 20JS. gr. Families with their servants may live en pension at these hotels during the winter, and at other times make an agreement for periods of not less than a month, on moderate terms. Stadt Berlin, good ; — H. de 1' Europe ;— Stadt Wien, in the Neustadt overlooking the river and bridge, one of the best, but remote. The capital of Saxony, residence of its sovereign of the Albertine line, and seat of the government (Population 90,000—5000 Rom. Cath.), is situated on the Elbe, which divides the old town from the new. Dresden was named by Herder "the German Florence;" and in its pleasing situation, in the number and excellence of its collections, and more especially in its richly stored Pic- ture Gallery, it may deserve to be com- pared, at a respectful distance, with the Florence of Italy. Few European capi- tals contain a greater number of objects calctdated to gratify the curiosity of an intelligent traveller. It is the residence of many men of learning and talent, who contribute much to render society agreeable. The opera is good^ and music is much cultivated ; the climate is generally mild and agreeable, food and lodgings are not dear. It has been much resorted to since 1830 by the English for education and economy; and for those who are not alarmed by the recent events in Germany, is eli- gible as a residence. The town itself is more pleasing at a distance, than striking when examined in detail; it has neither fine streets nor imposing public buildings, but its situation is pretty, and its environs are delightful. The most healthy localities are the Neustadt and the S. streets of the old town, Waisenhaus Strasse, Halbe N K A / ...I:.., J.&. C.Walker Sculp. Published by John Murray llhemurh- Street London 1849. ■ Saxony. ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. COLLECTIONS. 441 Gasse, sometimes called the English quarter. The Post and Diligence offices are included in one handsome building in the Wilsdruffer Platz . A letter to or from England reaches in 3 days. The office for Extra-post horses is in the Annen Gasse. Fiacres are stationed in the public places ; the charges vary according to the number of passengers, the number of horses, and the distance. For any distance within the town, for one person with one horse, the charge is 5 Neu gr., for 2 persons 7 5 Neu gr. There are also Droschken (covered cabs) with one horse, of which there are now about 200 ; fares, for a drive (Fahrt) in the inner circle of the town 4N. gr., in the outer circle or suburbs 6 1ST. gr. Sedan chairs are used, and the fares are low, 5 N. gr. within the town, and 10 N. gr. from it into the Neustadt or suburbs. The Collections at Dresden are open to the public from April to October, on certain days and at fixed hours ; in almost all instances, however, only by means of tickets, a limited number of Which are given out gratuitously for each day; thus, 115 are issued for the Cabinet of Natural History ; 36 for the Armoury. The Green Vault is shown only by tickets, which cost 2 dollars, and admit 6 persons. The Library is open daily, and without tickets, all the year round. All the collections may be seen dur- ing the months, the days, or hours, when they are not open to the public, by pay- ing a fee of 2 or 3 dollars for a ticket (Einlasskarte), which usually admits 6 persons, and also secures the attend- ance of their directors ; but an appoint- ment must be made with them before- hand. The directors of the collections are always men of intelligence, pos- sessing and willing to impart every information respecting the objects of which they have charge, and will direct the stranger's especial attention to the things most deserving minute examina- tion. The closing of the Picture Gal- lery and other collections in winter is a great drawback to Dresden as a resi- dence, since it operates practically to the exclusion of the stranger, unless he will pay 2 or 3 dollars. The services of a valet de place (who usually receives 1 dollar per diem) are particularly required at Dresden, to procure tickets for the open collections, and to make appointments during the close months, and for those collections which are shown only on payment of a fee. If a foreigner were to undertake this for himself, he would sustain a great loss of time. The tickets are usually all engaged along while before- hand, so that a stranger pressed for time has little chance of obtaining them exactly at the moment when he wants them, except by the agency of a valet de place. By h% aid, also, the solitary traveller is enablpd^to join parties about to visit the collections ; and, instead of paying the entire fee, which is onerous for one or two persons, may contribute only his share, by which considerable expense is spared. Days and hours of admission to the Collections in Dresden, from May 1st to Oct. 31st. Daily. — Picture Gallery, 9 — 5 in summer, gratis, without tickets. Satur- day, 9 — 1, p, 445., Library, on aD hour's warning, 9 — -1, do. Green Vault, 8—12 and 2—6, fee of 2 dollars. Monday * — Historical Museum (Ar- moury) in the Z winger, 8h^-12 and 2 — 6, with tickets > of which only 36 are is- sued — Plaster Casts. Tuesday. — Collection of Engravings and Drawings, 8 — 12, Gems, 8 — 12. Wednesday. — Antique Sculpture, 9 — 1. Collection of Porcelain, 2 — 6. Cabinet of Minerals, 9 — 12 (tickets). Cabinet of Zoology, 3 — 6 (tickets). Thursday. — Historical Museum, 8—12 and 2—6 (tickets). Meng's Plaster Casts, 8—12. Friday. — Canaletto' s Views in Bruhl' s Palace, 9 — 1. Saturday. — Antique Sculpture, 9 — 1. Cabinet of Minerals, 9 — 12 (tickets). Cabinet of Zoology, 3 — 6 (tickets). Tickets of Admission to the Green Vaults, Armoury, Engravings, and Col- lection of China, cost 2 thalers, and admit 6 persons. N.B. The "Dresdener Anzeiger" newspaper gives at the end a " Tage- u 3 442 ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN". CHURCHES. PALACES. Sect. VII. buch,' ' or list of the sights open every day, with the modes of obtaining admission. The Bridge over the Elbe is one of the longest and finest structures of the kind, entirely of stone, in Germany. It commands an excellent view of the town and valley of the Elbe. It was originally built with money raised by the sale of dispensations from the pope, for eating butter and eggs during Lent. It is of a very solid construction, in order that it may resist the force of the stream (which often rises 1 6 ft. in 24 h., when the snow begins to melt), and the shocks of floating masses of ice in the spring ; during the months of January and February the river is usually frozen oVer. The fourth pier from the side of the Altstadt, was blown up by the French general Davoust, in 1813, to facilitate his retreat to Leipzig, and the two adjoining arches fell ; and in the winter of 1845-6, the pier between the 7th and 8th arches from the Altstadt side gave way, owing to underscouring during the flood, caused by the melting of the ice, when the adjoining arches of course fell. N.B. Foot passengers in crossing the bridge always take the path on the right hand, "a rule of the road," which is enforced by the police, and prevents collision and confusion. Another and finer Bridge \ mile W., lower down the river, carries over the railway which connects the Leipzig with the Prague line. This bridge has also a carriage and foot way. The estimated cost is 120,000/. Its 1 2 large arches are of 100 ft. span ; the 2 smaller of 50 ft. It is 1532 Sax. ft. long, and 60 broad between the parapets. 28 ft. of this are occupied by 2 lines of rail : the 2 footways are each 4 ft. and the carriage-way 24 ft. in width. The Frauenkirche (Ch. of our Lady) is a very handsome edifice entirely of stone, even to the dome, which is of such solid construction that the shells and balls directed against it by Fre- derick the Great during the Seven Years' "War (in 1760) rebounded from its surface, \rithout doing it any injury. A good view may be had from the out- side of the cupola, and an easy staircase leads up to it. The Catholic or Court Church between the bridge and the palace is a profusely decorated but tasteless building, in the Italian style. It is connected with the palace by a bridge thrown over the street, and is attended by the royal family. They profess the Catholic faith, though their subjects are Lutherans, since the time of Augustus II. (1697), who, as the price of obtaining the crown of Poland, adjured the religion of which his ancestors had been the earliest and most faithful supporters. The music in this church is celebrated all over Germany. It is under the superin- tendence of the director of the opera, who merely transfers his band from the orchestra to the organ loft. High mass is performed on Sundays and festivals, from 11 to 12, and no stranger should miss hearing it. During service, the male and female part of the congrega- tion are arranged on opposite sides of the church. The organ, made by Sil- berman, is considered very good. The altar-piece is by Raphael Mengs^ a native artist. The Terrace of Briihl, formed after the destruction of that minister's Palace and Gardens in the Seven Years' War, approached by a grand flight of broad steps from the foot of the bridge, runs along the 1. bank of the Elbe, and com- mands a delightful view. It is a de- servedly favourite promenade and lounge of the inhabitants, who resort much to the places of entertainment situated on it, that is, to the Cafe'Reale for ices in the afternoon, and to the HassfeloVs Cafe and Restauration in the evening for supper, tea, beer, and music. In the Palace of Bruhl, contiguous to the terrace, named after the profligate minister of Augustus II., are the Aca- demy of Fine Arts, under BendemanrCs direction, and a collection of 50 land- scapes by Bernardo Canaletto. Many of them are views of Dresden and its vicinity; but the greater part are in- ferior productions. The Royal Palace, opposite the bridge, is an ancient bunding, of very ungainly architecture externally. "Within, it is decorated with the splen- dour usual in palaces. It possesses a Saxony. ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. GREEN VAULT. 443 great attraction for the lovers of modern art in the frescoes, by Bendemann, in the Thron Saal. A series of scenes painted on gold grounds, representing the various conditions of life, its occupa- tions and labours from the cradle to the grave, form a frieze round the room. " The line of thought is as follows : from an original state of innocence — indicated by Paradise (1st composition) - — the human soul passes through its earthly existence, which is troubled by the consciousness of sins, to find its redemption and glorification by means of Christianity — set forth in the hea- venly paradise in the last composition." At the lower end are figures of heroes and great men ; at the upper, four large compositions from German history. These last refer to the 4 orders of the state : 1 . The Peasant order. The Em- peror Henry I., the Fowler, transfers every ninth peasant to a city : and stores there a portion of the Harvest. 2. The Citizen order. Henry builds stone walls round some cities, and founds others. 3. The order of No- bibity. Henry's victory over the Hungarians at Merseburg. 4. The Ecclesiastical order. Henry leads his army against the Danes, conquers them, and compels their king to assume Christianity. For brightness and clear- ness of colouring, pleasing subject, and graceful design, the paintings forming the frieze are superior to most of the modern German frescoes. The state- rooms are shown, when the court is absent, by an ofiicer called Bett- meister. The Green Vault (das griine Gewdlbe), a range of vaulted apartments, On the ground floor of the Palace, are so called, probably, from the colour of the hang- ings with which the chambers were originally decorated. They form a separate and curious exhibition, and are shown on week days from 8 to 12, and from 2 to 6. An appointment must be made previously with the in- spector, who conducts parties not ex- ceeding 6 in number, and explains every thing to them. He receives a fee of 2 dollars. The Saxon princes, besides being far more powerful and important in former times than at present, were also among the richest sovereigns of Europe ; the Freiberg silver mines alone were an immense source of wealth, previous to the discovery of America. The nu- merous and valuable collections of various kinds, still existing in the capital, are proofs both of their riches and their taste. One mode by which they showed their magnificence, and expended their money, was in the accu- mulation of all kinds of rare objects, such as jewels and exquisite carvings, in the precious metals, and in other costly materials, which were deposited in a secret strong room under their palace, where it is believed that vast treasures of money were also accumu- lated. This is the origin of the cele- brated collection now known as the Green Vault. It is probably the richest which any European monarch at this time possesses ; indeed, the treasures remind one rather of the gorgeous, dazzling magnificence of oriental des- pots, or the magic productions of Aladdin's lamp in the eastern tale. The value of the whole must amount to several millions. The political economist would regret that so much capital should lie idle, while the man of taste may affect to despise what, at first sight, he might deem a collection of toys ; but in truth he will find, on a nearer examination, that a large portion of the objects are in the highest degree worthy of atten- tion as works of art, while others are at least wonderful as the elaborate pro- ductions of patient toil and skill, and of arts which in the present day may be said to be almost extinct, or at least to have degenerated. The treasures are contained in 8 apartments, each exceed- ing the previous one in the splendour and richness of its contents ; the whole has been re-arranged within a few years. The objects are so numerous, that it is quite impossible to allude to more than a few of the most striking in each chamber. 1st room contains objects in bronze, as, a Crucifix, by John of Bologna, a masterpiece — a little dog scratching itself, by Peter Vischer — a copy of the Farnese bull — the Rape of Proserpine. 444 ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. GREEN VATJLT. Sect. VII. A statue of Charles II. of England on horseback, in the character of St. George, cut out of a piece of solid cast- iron. 2nd, or Ivory Cabinet ; a Crucifix attributed to Michael Angelo, and not unworthy of him — a battle-piece by Albert Dtirer (?) — a number of beau- tiful vases, some of large size, cut out of a single piece of ivory — a cup, on which is carved the story of the Foolish Virgins — the Fall of Lucifer and the Wicked Angels, a most wonderful group of 85 figures, carved in one piece of ivory, 16 inches high — 2 horses' heads in relief, by Michael Angelo. There is an interesting work of the present day, a goblet of stag's horn, cut in the manner of a cameo with figures repre- senting a hunt, by Schulz, an artist of Meiningen. 3rd contains Florentine mosaics ; en- graved shells ; ostrich eggs, carved and ornamented : No. 41 is an egg said to have been laid by an ostrich kept in the menagerie of Moritzburg; objects in amber, particularly a cabinet, entirely of this precious material — a chimney- piece of Dresden china, ornamented with precious stones, all of them the produce of Saxony ; paintings in Enamel, especially a Madonna and Eece Homo, by Raphael Mengs when young — por- traits of Peter the Great and Augustus the Strong, by Dinglingei — a fruit dish, with a battle-piece, by Noel Landin of Limoges, a celebrated artist in enamels. 4th is filled with gold and silver plate which adorned the banquets of the Saxon palace. A part of this collec- tion was carried to Frankfurt at the coronation of the Emperors by the Electors of Saxony, who possessed the hereditary office of Arch-Marshal at those ceremonies. 5th. Vessels formed of half-precious stones, such as agates, chalcedony, rock crystal, lapis lazuli, &c. ; — 2 gob- lets composed entirely of cut gems (some of them antiques), are valued at 60 00 dollars each. An antique onyx cameo, bearing the portrait of Augustus. The cups of Moss agate are particu- larly beautiful. Here may be seen the largest enamel known, a Magdalen, by Dinglinger. — A set of vessels cut out of solid rock crystal, are valuable for their size and brightness ; the modern manufacture of crystal glass, however, has attained such excellence, as nearly to equal them in appearance. 6th room contains a large assem- blage of cleverly cut figures in ivory and wood, also numerous caricature figures of men and animals formed of single pearls, of odd shapes and un- usual size, chiefly found in the Elster, a Saxon river. For instance, the body of a court dwarf of the King of Spain, is formed of a pearl as large as a hen's egg. Besides these, there are a num- ber of other most costly jewels and trinkets, on which a vast deal of inge- nuity and wealth must have been ex- pended. Two old watches, called Nu- remberg eggs (there is a finer one in the Rustkammer) from their shape and the name of the place where they were first made, in 1500. Among the carvings in wood are two combats of knights, by that emi- nent sculptor, Colin of Mechlin, who executed the reliefs on Maximilian's tomb at Innsbruck ; others are attri- buted to A. Diirer. The 7th room. The regalia used at the coronation of Augustus II. as King of Poland. The 8th and last apartment sur- passes all the others tenfold in the va- lue and splendour of its contents. Among the wonders of this cabinet are the works of Dinglinger, an artist who may be fairly termed the Saxon Benvenuto Cellini. He and two re- latives of inferior skill were almost entirely employed by the Electors of Saxony ; and a close examination of the workmanship displayed in his per- formances will show that they are the productions of no mean artist. One of these pieces is called the Court of the Great Mogul, and represents the Emperor Aurengzebe upon his throne, surrounded by his guards and courtiers, in the most appropriate costumes ac- cording to the description of Taver- nier, to the number of 138 figures, all of pure gold enamelled. The variety of character, and the true expression Saxony. ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. 445 of each of the figures, deserve the mi- nutest inspection. This elaborate trin- ket, begun in 1701, employed Dinglin- ger 8 years, and cost 58,400 dollars. Another piece, by the same artist, portrays artizans of different trades, all remarkable for the delicacy and per- fection with which they are executed. There are many other specimens of Dinglinger's skill ; he flourished be- tween 1702 and 1720, and was court jeweller at Dresden. Other things to be noted in this room are — an immense specimen of uncut Peruvian emeralds, given by Rudolph II. to the Elector of Saxony ; a portion of a mass of solid native sil- ver from the Himmelsfiirst mine at Freiberg. It is recorded, that no less than 2176 cwt. of silver were ob* tained in the course of 50 years from that mine alone. The Saxon Regalia include — the Electoral sword borne by the Saxon princes at the Imperial Coronations ; the decorations belong- ing to a miner's uniform, made for the Elector John George, 1676 ; a large collection of chains, collars, and orders ; among which are the Garter, Golden Fleece, Polish Eagle, &c, worn by Saxon princes. The largest sardonyx known, 6^ inches long, and 4^ broad ; it is oval, and beautifully regular. Last of all comes a glass case filled with most precious suits of the most costly jewels ; — the 1st division con- tains Sapphires, the largest of them, an uncut specimen, was a gift of Peter the Great ; — the 2nd, Emeralds ; — 3rd, Rubies, the two largest spinels weigh 48 and 59 carats ; — 4th, Pearls, one set of native Saxon pearls, from the Elster in Voigtland, are of course inferior to the oriental. Among 63 rings there are two which belonged to Martin Luther ; one a cornelian bearing a rose, and in its centre a cross ; the other his enamelled seal ring, bearing a death's head, and the motto, " Mori saepe cogita." The 5th division is devoted to Dia- monds. The diamond decorations of the gala dress of the Elector consist of buttons, collar, sword hilt and scab- bard, all of diamonds ; the 3 brilliants in the epaulette weigh nearly 50 carats each. But the most remarkable stone of all, which is considered unique, is a green brilliant, weighing 160 grains = 40 carats. 6th division, also fitted with diamonds, includes the Saxon order of the Rue Garland, and 7 orders of the Golden Fleece, &c, &c, &c. The Picture Gallery,* the finest collection of paintings in Germany, is entered on the side of the New Market. It is open to the public every day, gratis, except Saturday, when you may enter by paying, from 9 to 1, and Sunday, when it is open from 12|to 3, gratis, and without tickets, from May 1 to October 1. From April 15—30, and during October, it is open from 10 to 4. A traveller may see it on Satur- day, by obtaining a ticket, which costs 5 N.gr. A German catalogue costs 15 N.gr., a French one 20 N.gr. It appears that something like the rudiments of a collection were made in the reign of Duke George, the friend of Lucas Cranach ; but Augus- tus II. may be regarded as the founder of the Gallery. It was greatly in- creased, and received some of its bright- est ornaments in the reign of Augustus III., who purchased the collection of the Duke of Modena, and the famous Madonna di San Sisto of Raphael. " While lingering among the great productions of a captivating art, it is a pleasant feeling that they have had the rare fortune to be treated with reve- rence by every hostile hand. Frederick the Great bombarded Dresden, bat- tered down its churches, laid its streets in ruins, but ordered his cannon and mortars to keep clear of the Picture Gallery. He entered as a conqueror, levied the taxes, administered the go- vernment, and, with an affectation of humility, asked permission of the cap- tive electress to visit the Gallery as a stranger. Napoleon's policy, too, led him to treat Saxony with much con- sideration, and was the guardian angel of her pictures. Not one of them made the journey to Paris." — Russell's Germany. * See Kugler's Handbook of Painting, Part I., Italian School, edited by Eastlake : and Parts II. and III., Germany and Netherlands, France and Spain, edited by Sir Edmund Head, Bart. 446 ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. TICTURE GALLERY. Sect, VII. It is much to be regretted that many of the pictures of this gallery, includ- ing the Raphael and the Correggios, have suifered greatly, first, from neg- lect, and, afterwards from injudicious cleaning. Old and D. German Dutch. Ff. Raphael. Correggio- E. 1 Modern and F. Dutch German. c. Dutch. Ku- BKNS. Aa. Ferrara. COURT YARD. Ce. Ee. Neapo- litan. G. Dutch. Rem- brandt. Bb. Venice. Titian. Dd. Guido. Venetian and Bolognese Milanese and Gcnevese. B. Italian and Spanish. A. French. J Entrance 1 H. Dutch. A few of the choicest works are here set down, with the view of guiding the eye of the spectator in a collection so extensive, sparing him the fatigue of examining productions less worthy of attention, and at the same time reliev- ing him from the mortification of hav- ing passed over any of acknowledged merit. Exterior rooms, A to H, contain Flemish, Dutch, French, German, and Spanish paintings, and room B a few Italian. Rooms Aa to Ee of the in- terior gallery, and Ff of the exterior, contain Italian works only. Italian Schools. — No collection out of Italy contains a finer Raphael, or can compete with this in the works of the Venetian masters and Correggio. Boom Ff. Raphael's Madonna di San Sisto, 1020, is the gem of the Dresden Gallery ; a capital painting scarcely surpassed by any work of Raphael's existing in Italy, and equalled by none out of it. It is in his latest and best manner, and was executed only a few years before his death. The sainted Pope Sixtus, from whom the | picture is named, is represented on the one side gazing with pious and trembling awe upon the figure of the Virgin, who is soaring up to heaven in all the majesty with which the Roman Catholic religion has surrounded her, bearing in her arms the divine child. " The head of the Virgin is perhaps nearer the perfection of female beauty and elegance than anything in paint- ing ; it is truly impressive and beau- tiful." — Wilkie. Opposite to the Pope kneels St. Barbara; her youthful beauty and fervour contrast admirably with his aged form. Below this group are two angelic children, their coun- tenances beaming with innocence and intelligence, their eyes up-turned to- wards the central figures of the pic- ture ; they are among the happiest efforts of art. This picture was pur- chased from a convent at Piacenza for 17,000 ducats (about 8000/.). Correggio. — Excepting at Parma, so many and such excellent works of this artist are to be met with nowhere in Europe. The following 6 paintings are numbered and arranged here according to the periods of the artist's life at which they were executed, as it is peculiarly interesting to watch the change in style and the progress to perfection made by so great a master in his art : — 1077. The Virgin and Child with St. Francis, painted, it is said, at the age of 18. 1082. Portrait of a Man, supposed to be the physician of the artist. 1080. The far-famed picture of the Virgin and infant Jesus in the Manger, known by the name of " La Notte" the Mght. " Correggio has here converted the literal representation of a circumstance of sacred history into a divine piece of poetry, when he gave us that emanation of supernatural light streaming from the form of the celestial child, and illuminating the ecstatic face of the Virgin mother, who bends over her infant undazzled ; while another female draws back, veiling her eyes with her hand, as if unable to endure the ra- diance. Far off through the gloom of night we see the morning just breaking along the eastern horizon — emblem of the ' day-spring from on high.' " — Mrs. Jamieson. "The Notte of Correggio Saxony. ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. riCTURE GALLERY. 447 is what I expected the most from, and the condition of which has given me the greatest disappointment. Yet, how beautiful the arrangement! All the powers of the art are here united to make a perfect work. Her the sim- plicity of the drawing of the Virgin and Child is shown in contrast with the foreshortening of the group of Angels ; the strongest unity of effect with the most perfect system of in- tricacy. The emitting the light from the child, though a supernatural illu- sion, is eminently successful ; it looks neither forced nor improbable. What- ever the Notte may have been, the hand of the picture-cleaner is here manifest ; and those who like bright day-light effect will have it here to their heart's content. Correggio did not, like Rem- brandt, in these effects attempt to give the colour of lamplight ; the phospho- rescent quality of light was more his aim, as in his ' Christ in the Garden.' But here the light on the Virgin and Child is white, chalky, and thin ; and the rest of the picture has somewhat the poverty of a copy. The group of shepherds indeed appear, in character and in the beauty of painting, infe- rior to the general run of Correggio' s figures; the man at the side is even coarse. Still, however, the matchless beauty of the Virgin and Child, the group of Angels over head, the day- break in the sky, and the whole ar- rangement of light and shadow, give it the right to be considered, in con- ception at least, the greatest of his works. * * It is a rubbed-out pic- ture ; yet still, though ' shorn of its beams,' it is not less ' than archangel ruined.' For the conception, purpose, and originality, — as an arrangement of colour, effect, and of sentiment, — I consider it one of the first works the art of painting has to boast of ; and, in the adaptation of light and shadow to the illusion of the subject, one of the triumphs of modern art." — Wilkie. This picture was begun about the year 1522, and is one of the most admirable specimens of that masterly management of light and shade in which Correggio is unrivalled. 1081. Virgin and Child, with St. George. The figures of the children and woman are particularly admired for their grace and sweetness of expression. 1079. The recumbent Magdalen, one of the sweetest and most pleasing, as well as the most faultless pictures ever painted. It is distin- guished for its peculiar softness of out- line, and is executed in the artist's best manner. "It is in its pristine con- dition ; almost as left by the master, without even varnish. The head, neck, and arms are beautiful; the face and right arm one of the finest pieces of painting I have witnessed. The sha- dows are extremely loaded ; the lights, though painted flat and floating, are, compared with them, thin and smooth. The background and darks of the pic- ture, even the blue drapery, want rich- ness and transparency." — Wilkie. 1078. The Virgin and Child with St. Sebastian, painted about 1528, is one of the most striking examples of the master's magic chiaro-scuro, remarkable, to use the words of an eminent artist, for the " exquisite truth of tint in the passage from light to dark; so that in this picture, as in nature, the spectator is soon unconscious of the presence of shade," Parmigiano — 1088. Virgin and Child, known as the Madonna della Eosa. Baroccio — 1093. Hagar in the Desert. And. del Sarto — 1058. The Sacrifice of Isaac. Giulio Romano — 1031. Virgin and Child, with a basin. 1022. A good copy of Raphael's Ma- donna della Seggiola. Vicenzio di San Gimignano — 1033. A Virgin and Child ; an exquisite little picture. Leonardo da Vinci — 1051. A portrait attributed to him, and called Lewis Sforza in the catalogue, is now ascertained to be the likeness of a burgomaster of Basle, and the work of Holbein : it is admirably painted and most carefully finished, though in a rather dry manner. Carlo Dolce — 1072. St. Cecilia ; one of the best pictures of the painter. — 1073. Our Saviour blessing the bread, the same as the picture of Burleigh. Room Aa. Benvenuto Garofalo — 586. The Virgin kneeling before the infant Saviour, while an Angel appears on the opposite side. Bosso Bossi — 596. The Fathers of the Church, SS. Gregory, Augustine, and Jerome, meditating the 448 ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. VII. immaculate Conception of the Virgin ; a grand work. Giovanni Bellino — 610. Christ : a whole-length figure, full of majesty. 611. Portrait of the Doge Loredano. Boom Bh. Titian— 631. The Tri- bute Money, known as "II Christo della Moneta :" remarkable for the richness of colour, fine expression, and high finish. 632. The Virgin and Child, the Baptist, St. Jerome, and St. Paul. Some of the colour is very beautiful. 638. Portrait of Pietro Aretino. 639. A reclining Venus, like that in the Fitzwilliam Museum. It has suffered dreadfully from clean- ing. 640. Portrait of a young woman dressed in white, with a fan, called Titian's Mistress. Giorgione — 645. The Meeting of Jacob and Rachel. Palma Vecchio — 648. The Virgin and infant Saviour with St. John : a work of fascinating beauty. 651 and 652. Holy Families with St. Catherine. Boom Cc. Paul Veronese — 689. The Finding of Moses. 700. The Adora- tion of the Wise Men : a glorious com- bination of colour. 701. Christ with his Disciples at Emmaus. 730. The Virgin and Child enthroned between St. John the Baptist and St. Jerome. Three female figures, representing Faith, Love, and Hope, are presenting to the Virgin a Member of the Vene- tian family of Concina, who had been reconciled to the Church after having listened to the doctrines of the Reforma- tion. The other members of the family accompany him : a masterpiece of the artist. Annibal Caracci — 827. Fame soaring upwards : very spirited. — 828. St. Matthew writing his Gospel under the superintendence of the Virgin, with St. John and St. Francis. Caravaggio —852. The Card-players : full of truth and nature. Boom Dd. Guido — 871. Bacchus as a Child. 875. Venus. Albano — 888. A Dance of Cupids. Carlo Gignani • — 916. Joseph and Potiphar's "Wife : a masterpiece. Dutch, Flemish, and German Schools. The works of the early German and Flemish masters here, are far inferior to those at Munich, Berlin, and Vi- enna ; but in the productions of the later period of these schools the Dres- den Gallery is very rich indeed. Boom D. L. Cranach — 503. Por- trait of Luther. 504. Melanchthon. A. Durei — 523. A Rabbit, in water-colours: excellently done. 524. Portrait of a Man in black ; probably of Lucas van Leyden. Holbein, the younger — 530. Jacob Meyer, burgomaster of Basle, with his Family, kneeling before the Virgin, " and praying for the recovery of his sick child. The Madonna has laid down the infant Saviour, and has taken in her arms the sickly infant." — W.J.F. This is, without doubt, Hol- bein's chef-d'oeuvre. Boom C. Van Dgk— 429. Charles the First. 427. His Queen, Henrietta Maria. 428. Their Children, Charles II., James II., Henrietta, afterwards Duchess of Orleans. 408. Portrait of Old Parr, at the age of 151. 405. Portrait of the painter David Rykaerts, in a fur pelisse, sitting in an arm-chair : a fine portrait ; low and brown in tone, but broad and powerful. Bubens — 389. A Picture known by the name of the Garden of Love, or Love punished. 377. The Judgment of Paris, a small, highly finished study, or nearly a repe- tition of the picture in our National Gallery. 376. The Boar Hunt : a very animated sketch. 375. Neptune stilling the tempest (called the " Quos ego"), upon the passage of the Cardinal Fer- dinand of Austria from Spain to Italy. 371. A Sketch for the large picture of the Last Judgment, at Munich. 355. Portrait of a young woman in black, with flowers in her left hand : a charm- ing picture, lights well arranged, flesh colour exquisite. Tenters — 254. and 237. A Village Fete. 250. Temptation of St. Anthony ; in which, as in the same subject at Berlin, the painter's wife and mother-in-law appear. 249. The Alchemist's Laboratory. 246. A Guard Room. A boy and armour in the foreground ; soldiers playing at cards behind. One of the most perfect of his pictures : clear, delicate, and free in execution. 245. Boors smoking, drinking, and gambling. 244. Peter brought out of Prison by the Angel : oddly treated. Van der Werjf — 221. Judgment of Paris. 224. Abraham Saxony. ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. 449 sending away Hagar. 228. The Artist and his Family. Terburg — 210. A Soldier writing a letter, for which a trumpeter is waiting. 212. A young- Lady in white, before a table. Paul Potto— 208, 209. Two Cattle-pieces. Ruisdael — 197. The Hunt : a wooded scene, with a piece of water in the fore- ground. The figures are by Van de Velde. One of the finest pictures Ruis- dael ever painted. 193. The Chateau of Bentheim. 187. Landscape, known as u the Jews' Burial-ground." Room B. Murillo — 111. A Fruit Girl. Velasquez — 109. The Conde Olivarez. Room A. Claude— SO. The Flight into Egypt. 31. Acis and Galatea. Nic. Poussin — 19. The Adoration of the Magi. 21. Moses found by Pha- raoh's Daughter. 26. The Sacrifice of Noah. Room H. Rubens— 1111. The Vint- age. 1730. Charles V. crowned by Fame. Backhuysen — 1746. Fight be- tween the English and Dutch Fleets. Both — 1803. Landscape : in the fore- ground, two men on horseback. Room G. Ferdinand Bol — 1623. Jo- seph presenting his Father to Pharaoh : worthy of Rembrandt. 1624. The Repose in Egypt. Rembrandt — 1578. Portrait of his Mother ; she is weigh- ing gold. 1569. The Entombment of Christ. 1570. Landscape. 1554. His own Portrait, with his Wife sitting on his knee, and a glass of wine in his hand. 1552. His daughter, holding a carnation : a charming picture. Wou- vermann. — There are no less than 55 pictures by him, among which are many of his best works, as, 1517. The Horse Market. 1523. The Camp. 1601. The Horse Market. 1604. Horsemen at an Inn. 1606. A Fair. 1611. The Halt. 1612. The Mill. 1641. Skir- mish of Cavalry, and several battle- pieces. F. Mieris — 1317. A Soldier smoking. 1320. An old Man mending a Pen. _ 1321. A travelling Tinker scrutinising a worn-out Kettle : one of the artist's finest works. 1322 and 1323. The Artist in his Studio. Gerard Dow — 1334. A Dentist drawing a Boy's Tooth. 1337. Portrait of the Artist drawing. 1342. A Hermit in a Cave : elaborately finished. 1343. The Artist himself, when young, playing on a Violin. Netscher — 1347. The Artist's own Portrait. 1348. A Lady playing, while a Man by her side is singing. 1351, 1352. Portraits of Madame de Montespan : in the latter is her son, the Duke of Maine. Schalken — 1358. A Girl examining an Egg at a Candle. Ad. Ostade — 1366. The Painter in his Studio. 1367. Interior of a Dutch Tavern. Two of the painter's best productions. M etzu— 1387. The Poul- try-woman. 1388. The Poultry-man. Slingeland — 1394. A Poultry-dealer offering a young Woman a Fowl. W. Mieris — 1462. A Gipsy telling a young- Woman her Fortune. 1466. A Man blowing a Trumpet. 1467. A Dealer in Game. Room F. Denner — 1225. Head of an old Woman, with a piece of white dra- pery on her head. Swanefelt — 1288. A good landscape. Modem Works: — The Portraits of 2 children, a popular picture, by Vogel the elder, a Saxon artist. Gerard's Por- trait of Napoleon in his coronation robes, is historically interesting. A large series of drawings in crayon (pastel) are hung between the windows in several rooms. The best are the fol- lowing, by Raphael Mengs : — 26. Cupid sharpening his Arrows, is ex- cellent; — and 2. his own Portrait. 22. La Belle Chocolatiere, a waitress at a coffee-house in Vienna, and a celebrated beauty of the last century, who married into a high Austrian family (the Dietrichsteins), by Liotard, in crayons. The remainder are, for the most part, by Rosalba Carriera, a female artist of Venice, and of inferior merit. Below the Picture Gallery is a Col- lection of Plaster Casts of the most famous antique statues known. They are called the Mengsischen Abgiisse, hav- ing been made by and under the su- perintendence of the celebrated artist Raphael Mengs. " Besides perfect ac- curacy, many parts of the figure, such as the hair, are finished with a much higher degree of industry and precision than is usually found in this department of the plastic art." — Russell. 450 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. THE ZWINGER. MUSEUM. Sect. VII. Amongst other interesting objects is a group representing Menelaus carrying away the body of Patroclus, put to- gether and restored from antique frag- ments in the Pitti Palace at Florence. The exertion and muscular display of the one figure, contrasted with the im- potent lifeless limbs of the other, are not to be surpassed. The Boy on the Dolphin, by Raphael (?) : the original was in Lord Bristol's collection in Ire- land ; cast of Venus, and colossal bust of Juno (Ludovisi), also deserve atten- tion. A new Picture Gallery is now (1851) building on the JST.E. side of the Zwin- ger, from the designs by Prof. Semper, architect of the new theatre, who took part in the street rebellion of 1849, and was obliged to fly. As it will not be sufficiently large to contain the whole collection, the best works only will be deposited in it. The exterior is com- pleted, but it is uncertain when it will be ready for the reception of the pic- tures. The plaster casts of Mengs, and perhaps other similar collections, are to be placed in this new " Museum." The Zwinger. — This building, erected in 1711, was intended merely as the fore-court and entrance-yard to a new and magnificent palace, designed by Augustus II., but never carried fur- ther. It is an enclosure consisting of an arcade, which, with the portal in front, are light and handsome, but sur- mounted by heavy and inelegant pa- vilions at the sides. During the street revolt of May, 1849, the S. E. angle of the Zwinger was burned down, and re- mains a vast ruin. The building is now occupied by the following collections : — 1. The Historical Museum. 2. Museum of Natural History. 3. Cabinet of Prints and Drawings. 1. The Historical Museum (His- torisches Museum, formerly called Rust- kammer — Armoury) is well arranged in the N. wing of the Zwinger. It is opened to the public only twice a week, in the summer months, on Monday and Thursday, from 8 to 12, and 2 to 6, by tickets, only 36 of which are given out at a time, so that the best way to see it is to pay the fee of two dollars, and make an appointment with the in- spector for a private view at other hours. This is undoubtedly one of the finest collections of the kind in Europe. Though less interesting, as an histo- rical collection, it surpasses the Am- bras collection at Vienna in armour of rich and studied workmanship, and leaves the Armoury in the Tower of London very far behind. It contains all the weapons, offensive and defensive, of chivalrous warfare ; all the trappings and accoutrements of the tournament and other wild sports of feudal ages. Wealth and skill appear to have been exhausted in the materials and deco- ration of the armour. The elaborate workmanship in gold, silver, and ivory expended on the smaller arms, as the hilts of swords, stocks of guns, bits and stirrups, the rich damasking of the plate armour and gun-barrels, and the carving and inlaid work so profusely bestowed, are sufficient to excite wonder and admiration. There are no suits in it older than the time of our Henry VIII. ; but several of Queen Eliza- beth's period, for man and horse, are covered with reliefs executed in the richest style. The 1st room contains specimens of painted glass of the 16th and 17th centuries; portraits of the Saxon princes of the Ernestine and Albertine dynas- ties. Those of Albert and his wife are by L. Cranach : the rest are for the most part copies. Around the room are arranged many articles of old furniture, cabinets, &c, almost all of which are ascertained to have belonged to the worthies whose effigies now decorate the walls. The work-table of the Electress Anne (1585) may interest the ladies. A cabinet given to Martin Luther by his friend the Elector John Frederick, containing relics of the great reformer ; together with a small sacramental cup, of silver gilt and ebony, which was presented to him by the Elector. A great number of ancient drinking ves- sels, horns, goblets, cups, for all varie- ties of potations : — the reader of Walter Scott will be pleased to discover among them the type of the blessed bear of Bra&war&me. Saxony. ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. ARMOURY. 451 The 2nd room is filled with imple- ments of sports, pastimes, the chase, gardening, turning, &c. ; spears, knives, bows, hunting-horns, and game-bags. A carved hunting-horn of ivory (12th cent. ?) ; the hunting-knife and horn of Henri IV. of France ; the cross- bow of the Elector Maurice (d. 1 653) ; of John Frederick, 1554, ornamented with a representation of Orpheus on one side, and a chase on the other. Game-bags embroidered by princesses ; a collection of dogs' collars, arranged in chronological order from the time of Henry the Pious, 1541, to John George I., 1656. 3rd. Gallery of Tournament, occu- pied almost entirely with parade arms and armour, employed in the tilts and tournaments of the times of chivalry. Of a collection of swords here shown, the oldest is a French blade, bearing the date 1293. The labour and skill bestowed on the ornaments of some of the sword-hilts should not be over- looked. In this gallery of iron statues, horse and foot, the most remarkable suits are — one, probably of the 16 th cent., a present to the Elector from Philip Emanuel, Duke of Savoy. Near it is a black suit worn at the burial of the Elector, Augustus I. A knight, in black armour, on horseback, usually formed part of the funeral procession of the Saxon princes ; several black suits in the collection have been made or used for this purpose. In the same way, on gala-days and at great festivi- ties, such as the accession, marriage, or the like event in the life of a Saxon prince, a knight in a suit of gold and silver armour, as gaily and as splen- didly decorated as possible, made part of the show. On these joyous occasions, the horse was called Gala Horse (Freude Pferd), and on the more mournful, Mourning Horse (Trauer Pferd). A suit of armour (No. 316) for man and horse, manufactured in Italy, is hardly to be surpassed in the elabo- rate workmanship with which it is decorated. Its surface is covered with reliefs, representing the Labours of Hercules, the Golden Fleece, Theseus and Ariadne, and similar mythological subjects, all evincing the hand of a masterly artist. Another suit, of iron and copper gilt, was made, 1599, by Colman, an armourer at Augsburg, for Christian II. Several shields and helmets of iron, beautifully chased, and ornamented with reliefs, such as are usually employed only in decorating plate or other ar- ticles formed of the precious metals. It is well known that the invention and taste in design of the most talented artists was called in to aid the skill of the armourers of those days. Near the end of the room are several tilting suits. Two of these in par- ticular deserve notice. They are the complete equipment of two knights on horseback for the more earnest species of tournament, the duel (Scharfrennen, Germ.), which sometimes ended in the death of one of the parties. The weight of each of these tilting suits is nearly 2 cwt. They are so ponderous and unwieldy, that the slightest motion was hardly possible ; the wearer could not even turn his head, but must con- tent himself with looking straight for- ward through the scanty opening of his heavy helmet. The suits consist of a breastplate, to which is attached a shield, and over it a black target of wood, still bearing the dents of the lance, and a back-piece. To this was screwed a sort of hook, serving as a rest for the lance, attached to the saddle behind. Without this provision it would have hardly been possible to support, in a horizontal position, the heavy lances used in the tournament. The thighs were not encased, but pro- tected by two shields, or pieces of iron, projecting from the saddle on each side. The inspection of these very interesting suits will give a far better insight into the nature of a tournament than the best description. The two different kinds of lance in use at the tournament are here exhibited, one pointed, and intended to pierce through both armour and wearer, and used only in the com- bat for life and death ; the other ending in several small spikes, and intended to attach itself to the outside of the ar- mour, when driven against it. The 4th room. Another long gal- lery is filled with warlike arms for 452 ROUTE 87. DRESDEN. ARMOURY. Sect. VII. use in the field, not for show, less pon- derous and unwieldy than the pre- ceding. A large part have heen worn in battle. Many of the suits were made for Saxon princes, and other historical characters, and are chronolo- gically arranged. The first is that of George the Bearded, Duke of Saxony. Near it is the sword of Thomas Miinzer, the leader of the rebellious peasants in Thuringia, in 1525 ; a character who united the knavery of Jack Cade with the religious madness of the chiefs of the Covenanters in Scotland. The armour of Henry the Pious ; of John Frederick the Magnanimous, worn by him when taken prisoner at Muhlberg, 1547. There are 3 suits of the Elec- tor Maurice ; near them is preserved the blood-stained scarf which he wore at the battle of Sievershausen, and the bullet fired (according to tradition) by a traitor on his own side, which killed him, 1553. The fluted armour of Christian I. is very handsome. Near it is the sword with which the Chan- cellor Crell was beheaded, in spite of Queen Elizabeth's intercession on his behalf. It bears the motto, " Cave Calviniane." The figure which stands 11th in the •row of Saxon princes is that of the Elector John George, who was a leader in the Thirty Years' War. The 15th, a brown suit, is the armour of Gustavus Adolphus, which he left at Weissenfels before the battle of Liit- .zen (in the fight he wore a suit of buff leather, now preserved at Vienna). The marshal's staves of his opponents, Counts Tilly and Pappenheim, are also preserved here. Among the most interesting histo- rical- relics is the scale armour worn by the heroic John Sobieski, at the siege of Vienna in 1683 ; near it are dis- played the trophies, arms, horse-tail standards, &c, gained by the detach- ment of Saxon troops who fought under the Duke of Lorraine on that occasion. Their commander, the Elector of Sax- ony (whose armour is also here), "was the first who planted a Christian flag in the Turkish camp. Farther on is the cuirass of Augustus II., surnamed the Strong, weighing 100 lbs. It would be difficult to find a man at present who could ^ walk in his armour, "which you can hardly raise from the ground; or wear his cap, which encloses an iron hat, heavier than a caldron. But Augustus, if you believe the Saxons, was a second Samson." He is said to have "lifted a trumpeter in full armour and held him aloft in the palm of his hand — to have twisted the iron banister of a stair into a rope — and to have made love to a coy beauty by pre- senting in one hand a bag of gold, and breaking with the other a horse-shoe." — Russell's Germany. Against the walls and pillars of this room are arranged a variety of swords and other weapons, many of which are remarkable for their workmanship, others for their history. Battle-axes and maces of various dates and patterns. A dagger which, after being thrust into the body, separates into three parts on touching a spring, so that it would be impossible to extract it from a wound. A short sword, notched on one side, in- tended to catch the blade of an adver- sary, and break it short off before it could be disengaged. The dagger of Rudolph of Swabia, who lost his hand while raising it to wound his brother, the Emperor Henry IV., in a single combat at Merseburg, 1080. The workmanship is very fine. The weapons with which the Bohe- mian peasants armed themselves during the Hussite War consist of flails shod with iron ; a Polish battle-scythe, of the period of Kosciusko's revolution — a most fearful weapon, which with one blow might cleave horseman and horse in twain; the sword of Don John of Austria, who commanded at Lepanto. The 5th room contains fire-arms, from their earliest invention in Europe. One of the oldest weapons of this kind is a rude sort of pistol, supposed to date from the end of the 15th cent., a mere iron barrel, 11 1 inches long, with a touchhole in the side. It was fired not by a flint falling upon- steel, but by the friction of a file upon a piece of firestone (pyrites). The file was inserted in a groove by the side of the touchhole, it was then covered with ■Saxony. route 87. — Dresden, armoury, museum. 453 powder, and the firestonc screwed down tightly in contact with it. "When the file was smartly drawn out, the friction served to ignite the powder. The first step of improvement after this was a pistol fired by means of a piece of lighted tow ; then came the wheel-lock, and afterwards the falling-lock with flint and steel. Specimens of all these va- rieties are preserved here ; also the pistols of Maurice of Saxony, splen- didly inlaid with silver and ivory. Another pair, remarkable for their plainness, belonged to Charles XII. of Sweden, and were borne by him on the day of his death at Frederickshal. 6th. This room is filled with costly stuffs used at the coronations and other festivities of Augustus II. and III., Kings of Poland; trappings and harness for horses, of most rich materials; splendidly embroidered bits and stir- rups, and housings for sledge-horses, &c, on which the most elaborate orna- ments have been expended. One set of harness is of gold, spendidly ena- melled, set with rubies ; another of silver set with pearls. In the 4 large cabinets are the state costumes of princes from the 16th to the 18th cent., and in 2 smaller ones are shoes of dif- ferent nations ; also those of Kant and Wieland, and the boots of Murat ; likewise mitres worn by the bishops of Meissen. The 7th room is fitted up with a Turkish tent, taken at the siege of Vienna, 1683 ; and its contents are chiefly Turkish and Eastern arms. 8th. Includes an ethnographical col- lection; the garments and weapons of various barbarous and savage nations, partly formed by Prof. Poppig in S. America, — as hammocks, clubs, poi- soned arrows, shooting tubes, dresses of coloured feathers, teeth, and claws, arms of the S. Sea Islanders, &c. 9th. Contains riding equipments and parade trappings. Among the historical relics in the last and splendidly orna- mented apartments are, the robes worn by Augustus the Strong at his corona- tion as King of Poland. By the side of them, as it were to show his claim to the by-name of " the Strong," is kept the horse-shoe which he broke in two between his fingers ; together with the written testimony of those who were witnesses of this feat of strength. The swords deposited here are among the chief ornaments of the collection ; the iron hilts being of carved work, exe- cuted at Nuremberg with surprising correctness ; there are several hundred of them. The little cocked hat of Peter the Great, and a wooden bowl, turned with his own hand, are among the curi- osities here. Last of all, here may be seen a saddle of red velvet, which be- longed to Napoleon ; the boots which he wore at the battle of Dresden, which seem to have sadly needed cobbling ; and the satin shoes worn by him at his coronation. Electrotypes of the objects of this collection are made of various sizes by the inspector, Mr. Biittner. There is also a collection of 2000 guns of va- rious fashions and ages, which may in- terest sportsmen and soldiers, and a series of twenty pictures representing tournaments, with dates and descrip- tions, The Museum of Natural History, oc- cupying the lower story of one side of the Zwinger, is shown gratis from April to October, on Wednesdays and Saturdays : — the minerals from 9 to 12 ; the zoology from 3 to 6 ; by tickets, only 15 of which are given out at once. A fee of 2 dollars will procure admittance at other times, if intimation be sent to the curators. This collection is not on a par with many others on the continent, and is kept in a very slovenly state, but still contains some objects which a person interested in science would be sorry to have missed. When the Opera-house of the Palace was burnt, during the insurrection of 3rd to 9th May, 1849, a part of this wing of the Zwinger was destroyed, containing the cabinet of stuffed birds, and the valuable Herba- rium of Prof. Reichhard. Minerals. — The specimens from the Saxon Mines, of the ores of silver, co- balt, lead, and iron, are very complete, especially those from Freiberg and the Erzgebirge. One specimen of native silver formed part of a mass of pure metal large enough to serve as a dinner- 454 ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. MUSEUM. JAPANESE PALACE. Sect. VII. table for the Elector, when he visited the Schneeberg mine, in which it was found. The collection of fossils is large. The specimens of petrified monocotyledon- ous plants from Chemnitz deserve par- ticular notice. Among them is an enormous tree, 5^ ft. diameter, petrified root and branch. Another curiosity is a tube, many feet long, formed by light- ning falling upon a bed of sand, which has been partially melted by the electric fluid, wherever it took its course. It was found behind the baths of Link. The like have been discovered in Eng- land and other parts of the world. Zoology. — This part of the museum, scarcely worth visiting, has been neg- lected, and is not very complete. As curiosities, we may mention the horse of Augustus II., stuffed. Its tail mea- sures 24 ft. ; its mane, 16 ft. Two of his dogs are also preserved here. One is 3 ft. high, and measures 5 ft. from the snout to the tail. The other is 5 in. long, and 1-J in. high. The beaver from the Elbe, the horns of a stag em- bedded in the centre of the trunk of a tree, and a Guanche mummy, also merit notice. Cabinet of Engravings (Kupferstich- Sammlung) is shown to artists and amateurs on Tuesdays, from 8 to 12, by tickets, which are given out in limited numbers by the curator. Strangers who\ wish to see it at other times must secure the attendance of the manager, M. Frenzel. That amiable and erudite gentleman will give every information respecting it. On such occasions a fee of 3 dollars (for a party) is usually put into the hands of his attendant. This is " one of the most complete collections of copper-plates in Europe, containing every thing that is interest- ing in the history of the art, or valuable from practical excellence, and forms a supplement to the Picture Gallery. The oldest is of the date 1466, and is said to be the earliest yet known. Whoever wishes to study the history of this beau- tiful art, and to be initiated in the mys- teries of connoisseurship, can find no better school than the cabinet of Dres- den. It overflows with materials, and is under the direction of a gentleman who not only seems to be thoroughly master of his occupation, but has the much rarer merit of being in the highest degree particularly attentive and com- municative . ' ' — Russell, There are 300,000 engravings in this collection. It is rich in the early German masters, Mechenen, Schoen- gauer, Albert Diirer, Wohlgemuth, &c., and has some valuable Marc An- tonios. The 50 portfolios of Drawings by the old masters, especially of the early Ger- man, Flemish, and Dutch schools, form a very interesting and prominent por- tion of this cabinet. There is, besides, a most valuable collection, unique pro- bably of its kind, of portraits, to the number of nearly 450, of all the most distinguished characters of the 19th cent, in Europe — sovereigns and royal families, statesmen and generals, artists and men of eminence in science and literature, all find a place here. They have been taken from the life by Prof. Vogel of Dresden, are drawn with a mas- terly pencil, and the likenesses are per- fect. Several of the most eminent artists of our own country are included in the series. The Japanese Palace, situated in the Neustadt, on the rt. bank of the Elbe, close to the Leipzig gate, was built by Augustus II., as a summer re- sidence. It receives its name from some grotesque oriental figures and orna- ments with which it is decorated. It now serves only the purposes of a Museum, and contains the following collections : — 1. The Museum of Antiquities (Antihensammlung). 2. The Library. 3. The Collection of Porcelain and Terra Cottas. 1. The Antiquities, open Wednesday and Saturday, from 9 to 1, from the 1st of May to the 31st of Oct., are placed on tbe l.-hand side of the entrance hall, on the ground-floor. A traveller fresh from the galleries of Pome and Florence may perhaps be disposed to despise this collection, which indeed ranks after that at Munich, «fcc, and has moreover suffered both from the ignorant mutilations of a barbarous age, and from the reparations and restora- Saxony. ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN". ANTIQUITIES. 455 tions of a more enlightened period. Nevertheless, there are many objects of high interest, both in point of art and as illustrations of antiquity. A new catalogue is promised. The numbers stood as follows in October, 1849. In the 1st hall are modern works in bronze, and marble, and copies. In the 2nd hall are one or two modern works which deserve notice, as, 53. A bronze bust of Gustavus Adolphus, made from a cast taken after his death — 55. A bust of Charles I. of England — 54. A bust of Cardinal Richelieu, of bronze, a characteristic likeness, of good workmanship — 99. Deianira carried off by the Centaur, in bronze, the work of John of Bologna. Third Hall. No. 115. A head of Niobe, like the one at Florence, and, though inferior to it, showing that beautiful expression of intense mental agony, of which, it is said, the masters of the Bolognese school sometimes availed themselves in their representa- tions of the Virgin, especially in those paintings of the Descent from the Cross, or burial of the Saviour, in which the body lies in the Virgin's arms. 116. A female bronze head, bust of coloured marble, called the eldest daughter of Niobe. 142.. A quadrangular altar with niches for Lares. 143. A Torso of Pal- las Promachos, known as the Dresden Minerva. She is clad in the peplus, woven for her by Athenian virgins. A strip in front, representing rich em- broidery, is divided into 11 compart- ments, the subjects being the battles of the Goddess with the Titans. 141 is a restoration of 143, in clay, by Prof. Rauch of Berlin. Fifth Hall. 169. Cupid playing with a Lion is not very remarkable for exe- cution, but the design is captivating and the expression pleasing. 191. Mi- nerva represented as the goddess who presided over the intellectual part of warfare, Greek strategy, and tactics. (Mars was the god of wild combats and battles.) The figure is somewhat masculine in its shape and proportions — there is more of manhood than wo- manhood in the appearance of her broad shoulders and narrow hips. The iEgis is thrown on carelessly and awry. 201. A triangular pedestal of a candelabrum, of Pentelic marble. The relief carved on one side represents Hercules with- held by Apollo from carrying off the sacred tripod from Delphi ; on another side is the reconsecration of the restored tripod ; on the 3rd is the consecration of a sacred torch. They are executed in the style called Eginetan. This speci- men is curious, as showing the early progress of the art. The faces are all alike, and without expression ; the dra- peries are stiff, and the hair resembles a coil of rope. 209. A Young "Wrestler. 210. Ampelos, or Satyriscus, in the at- titude of pouring wine. There are 3 other statues of the same Faun in the collection. This far surpasses the others in beauty of workmanship. Sixth Hall. 260,261,262. ALady of Herculaneum and her 2 Daughters, found in an almost perfect state in the theatre of Herculaneum— very fine and noble figures. They are interesting as showing the costume of a Roman lady, still more so as specimens of the per- fect treatment of draperies by ancient artists. Seventh Hall. 283 . Torso of a wounded Gladiator, nearly in the attitude of the Dying Gladiator. This is a fragment of great value. It is executed in the most finished style of art ; and the ana- tomy, especially of the back, is acknow- ledged to be unequalled for accuracy, 303. One of the sons of Mobe lying dead. A fine repetition of a well known statue. Eighth Hall. 349-352. Statues of 4 Romans engaged in the game of Ball (pila). They were at one time errone- ously called Gladiators, and are so re- stored, with sword-hilts in their hands ; but these are nobles of the time of Hadrian, not slaves. 351 represents the Empr. Hadrian. Ninth Hall. 359. Bust of Caligula in red porphyry. The effigy of this emperor is rare, as most of his statues were destroyed after his death from hatred of his cruelty while living. 383. Venus in the attitude of the Medicean. The upper part down to the knees, ex- cept the hand, is antique. The back of this statue is considered by good judges 456 ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. CHINA. LIBRARY. Sect. VII. little inferior in exquisite finish to that of the far-famed Venus at Florence. 384. An Athlete anointing himself. 386. Ariadne, ahandoned by Theseus, is regarding him with reproachful looks as he departs. The head is modern, but the expression of it is good. The shoulders are exquisite. The end of the 10th Hall represents one side of a Columbarium, and here and in the adjoining room are some Egyptian, Etruscan, and Eoman anti- quities. The Collection of Porcelain and Terra Cottas (Porzellan Sammlung), on the sunken floor of the Japanese Palace. It consists of more than 60,000 pieces of china, occupies 20 apartments, which are not well lighted, and the MS. cata- logue of it fills 5 folio volumes. Besides a large collection embracing the earliest as well as the finest produc- tions of native Saxon manufacture, there is an immense quantity of Chinese and Japanese specimens of an old date, but a deficiency in the later and finer quali- ties. Some of the earlier brown ware was turned in a lathe and polished. There is some Italian and Sevres ware, but the European porcelain is chiefly that of Meissen, of which many dupli- cates have been sold to obtain specimens of other manufactures. This collection contains the earliest attempts of Botti- cher, the alchymist, who is said to have made the discovery whilst seeking for the philosopher's stone. The ware which he produced, and which led to the discovery of true porcelain, is an imperfect opaque porcelain, coloured, by means of oxide of iron in the clay, of a brown or reddish hue.* The ori- ginal collection suffered greatly in the Seven Years' War, when Dresden was occupied by the Prussians and Russians. Dr. Klemme, the intelligent director, has taken great pains in the arrange- ment of this collection in its present place. At the entrance near the staircase are 2 leopards as large as life, a colossal bust of Augustus the Strong, and a nose- gay. The Chinese and Japanese Porce- * A very full account of the curiosities of the Dresden China Gallery will be found in Marryat's Pottery. lain occupies 1 1 rooms — a part consists of figures of animals of all sorts, grotesques, &c. &c. The Japanese vases are of great size and price, the antiquities of Chi- nese porcelain manufacture highly curi- ous. " Two plain yellow plates, and one broken one of the same colour, are the greatest rarity in the whole collec- tion, as this class of ware is made for the use of ' His Celestial Majesty' alone, and the exportation of them is prohi- bited under pain of death." — Ld. F. A number of beautiful objects in biscuit, such as busts, figures from the antique, groups, the model of a monument to Augustus III. A nosegay of flowers of very delicate workmanship, of a more recent date, and of European origin. Several specimens of French china from Sevres were the gift of Napoleon ; among them are splendid vases, with paintings illustrating the events of his life, &c. &c. There are several services of china. One variety is called Krack or serpent China, and is very valuable. The Italian earthenware is ornamented with paintings founded on the designs of Raphael, though not actually executed by him (Majolica). One set of china contained in this collection was given to the Elector Augustus II., by Frede- rick I. of Prussia, in exchange for a com- pany of grenadiers fully equipped. In the 17th room are Etruscan, Greek, and Roman vases ; German urns from tumuli ; Persian and American pottery. In the 18th, specimens illustrating the history of the art of pottery in Europe from the 12th to the 19th cent. There is a depot for the sale of Dres- den China in the town (in the Augustus Strasse). The manufactory is at Meis- sen. (See p. 439.) The Library, in the first floor of the Japanese Palace, contains about 300,000 volumes, 2800 MSS., and a very large collection of maps. It is open every week-day from 9 to 1, and is exceedingly well arranged. All persons are allowed to consult and peruse books in the reading-room. The inhabitants are permitted to take books home with them, a privilege also extended to strangers who can get some respectable inhabitant of Dresden to come forward as seeuritv Saxony. route 87. — Dresden, library, statues. 457 for them. Strangers may see the curiosities of this library any time they please, by sending a previous intimation of a few hrs. to the librarian. There are about 2000 early printed books, from the invention of printing to the end of the 15th cent. Among the MSS. are— a Greek MS. of the 10th cent., interlined with Latin, supposed to have been written in Ireland, one of the greatest curiosities. Alb. Diirer's Treatise on the Proportions of the Human Body, in his own hand- writing, and ornamented with his sketches (1528), a work deserving the notice of every artist. 3 volumes, representing the tournaments held in Dresden from 1487 to 1564, are curious. A volume filled with miniatures of the most celebrated and learned men of the 15th and 16th cent., drawn, it is conjectured, by the younger Cranach. Several volumes of autograph letters, among which are some of Luther, Melancthon, Grotius, Sixtus V., andBianca Capello. Among the Oriental MSS. is an 8-sided Koran, and another which belonged to Sultan Bajazet. A Mexican MS., with hiero- glyphics, curiously painted on aloe- leaves. The Gospels, written in the 12th cent., with vignettes in the style of Greek art. A collection of Fables in Arabic, with miniatures. A Mexi- can MS., containing, it is supposed, the genealogy of the gods and kings of that country. A collection, in 19 volumes, folio, made by Frederick Augustus II., of portraits of the princes and princess- es living in the 17th cent., most care- fully coloured, with maps of various countries, and plans of the principal towns, said to have cost 20,000 dollars. King Rene of Anjou's work on Tour- naments, with drawings. The Bible translated into Bohemian, in the 14th cent., and written upon parchment in the middle of the 15th. Item Dr. Faustus' s conj uring book . A very large apartment is occupied by European History : that of Saxony is particularly complete. The Gardens attached to the Japa- nese Palace are very agreeable. They are open to the public, and extend down to the margin of the Elbe, whence the view is pleasing, including the bridge [N. G.] and many of the finest buildings in the town. Monumental Statues. — Augustus II. on horseback, in the new town, near the end of the bridge, made of ham- mered copper. The Elector Maurice in the Boulevard in the Alstadt, nearly opposite the Zeughaus (Arsenal). The late King Frederick Augustus, of bronze, in the centre of the Z winger, by Rietschel. In the promenade in the Anton Stadt is a colossal bust of King Anthony. The collection of Herr v. Quandt, in the Neustadt, contains interesting works by Taddio Gaddi, Fiesole, Lip- pi, Francia (a Lucre tia), Moretto (the Virgin as she appeared at Brescia 1533), Overbeck, Veit, Schnorr, &c. — R. A new Theatre has been built near the Catholic Church, from the designs of Prof. Semper. It holds 1700 persons, and, both within and without, is one of the handsomest in Germany, and well managed. It is open daily, beginning in winter at 6, in summer at 6-^, and ending between 9 and 10. The opera here is good (see § 42). During the summer the performances take place sometimes in the theatre of the Link- esche Bad. There is a new minor theatre in Reisewitz Garten, just before entering the Plauensche Grund. Since 1830 the meetings of the two Chambers of Estates (Landstande), which form the parliament of Saxony, have been open to the public. The Chambers (Landhaus) are situated in the Pirnaische Gasse. Clubs. There is an excellent club called the Ressource, to which strangers are admitted freely ; there is a good re- staurant in the house, where you may dine a la carte. Admittance to read the newspapers at the reading-room (Literarisches Museum) is easily ob- tained : Alt Markt, No. 6, 1st floor. The best shops are in the Schloss Gasse and Alt Markt. Fietta's cafe, at the corner of the Alt Markt and Schloss Gasse, is much frequented. Baldini, in the Alt Markt, is a good confectioner. Cafe's. Those on the Bruhl Terrace, especially the Cafe Reale and the Bel- vedere, are much frequented in summer. The Cafe Reale has two wings; that nearest the bridge is for ladies, in which X 458 EOUTE 87. — DRESDEN. OUTSKIRTS. Sect. VII. smoking is prohibited, on the opposite side it is allowed. Smoking is allowed on the ground floor at the Belvedere, but not in the supper room up stairs. Very fair instrumental music may often be heard at the Belvedere in summer evenings. Eilposten, &c., daily to Teplitz and Carlsbad, to Freiberg and Chemnitz, to Zwickau — four times a week to An- naberg. Railroad to Leipzig — to Berlin in 6t^ hrs. — to Bautzen and Breslau — to Prague, 28 Germ. m. Trains in 8 hrs. — to Vienna. There is an Express Train daily from Vienna by Dresden to Cologne, and vice versa. There are two railway stats, close together in the Neustadt, on the it, bank of the Elbe. N.B. — English travellers going into Austria, and furnished only with a French or Belgian passport, had better get it exchanged for a British one at the Embassy in Dresden. Steamers ply on the Elbe, in summer, daily : 2 or 3 times a day to Pillnitz, Schandau, and Hernnskretschen (in the Saxon Switzerland) , twice to Tetschen, and once daily to Aussig. Travellers com- ing from Prague to Dresden should leave the rail at Aussig and take to the steamer, in order to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Elbe and Saxon Swit- zerland. English Church Service every Sunday, in the Johannes Kirche, near the Pir- naische Platz, at 11 a.m., and in sum- mer also at 3 p.m. Dr. Hedenus is a skilful physician, much employed by the English. Hen- Hollander, 3 Halbe Gasse, is recom- mended as a good German master. Promenades. There is no lack of pleasant waBis in and about the town. Besides the Terrace of Bruhl (p. 442) and the gardens of the Japanese Palace (p. 457), there are a sort of boulevard, which surrounds the town in the direc- tion of the levelled fortifications, and another pleasant small garden adjoining the Zwinger. Outskirts and Environs. At the dis- tance of a mile from the barrier of the town, on the 1. bank of the Elbe, on the way to Pirna, lies the Grosse Garten, a large park filled with fine trees, con- taining several coffee-houses, to which people resort in summer, especially when attracted by a very good band, which often plays here. About a mile S.E. of the town, and ■^ m. from the Great Garden, are the fields and slopes which were the "scenes of the combats and bombard- ment preceding the retreat of the French to Leipzig." The allied force extended all round the old town, from the barrier of Pima on the Elbe to the marsh of Priesnitz on that river below the town. Immediately behind the small village of Backnitz is the Monument of Moreau. He was struck by a shot from a battery at the angle of the wall now occupied by Dr. Struve's garden. Napoleon caused the distance to be measured, and it was found to be not less than 2000 yards. A large square block of granite, surmounted by a helmet, has been erected on the spot where he re- ceived his mortal wound. His two legs, which were separated from his body by a cannon-ball, are bulled here, but his body was conveyed to St. Petersburg. The inscription says, " Moreau, the hero, fell here, by the side of Alexan- der, 27th August, 1813." The view of Dresden from this point is very good. On the rt. bank of the Elbe, nearly a mile distant from the outskirts of the Neustadt, in the Churchyard (Neustadter Kirchhof), is a representation of the Dance of Death (Todtentanz), a proces- sion of 27 figures, in several groups, each headed by the skeleton king, who drags on rather roughly, and with a triumphant air, the imwuling throng, composed of persons of all ranks, ages, and professions. This rude carving, in relief, is of no greater antiquity than 1534. It has now become the more curious, since the original Dance of Death exists no longer at Basle. Tiedge the poet, and Adelung the phi- lologist, are buried in this churchyard. Weber the composer, who died in Lon- don, and whose body was removed from Moorfields in 1844, and Fred. Schlegel. lie in the Catholic churchyard in the Friederichstadt. The rt. bank of the Elbe, above Dresden, rises in picturesque hills from Saxony. ROUTE 87. DRESDEN. OUTSKIRTS. 459 the edge of the river. These are topped with rich woods, while their lower slopes, turned to the southern sun, are covered with vineyards, and form a continuation of the Saxon wine district, which begins at Meissen, and extends up to Pillnitz. These sunny slopes are dotted over with neat white villas, in the midst of pleasure- grounds — the retreats of opulent in- dustry. Here also have been established several places of public resort, some- what between a tea-garden, coffee- house, and tavern, such as are always to be found in the neighbourhood of a German large town. (§ 40.) Such are the Baths of Link (Link- esche Bad), an establishment compris- ing an inn, L situated about -J a mile from the outskirts of the new town, on the borders of the Elbe, in a very rural spot, with a garden abounding in alcoves ; a Theatre, where dramatic performances take place in summer ; and a mineral spring with baths, which give the name to the spot. In summer afternoons, especially on Sundays, many hundred persons assemble here to take their ice, beer, or coffee — to dance, or listen to the music of an excellent band. There is a very pleasant foot-road from this at the foot of the vine-clad hills, and by the Elbe side, nearly all the way to Pillnitz. Not far from the Linkesche Bad is a large brewery established in 1838. It is a very large establishment, carried on by a company, and the beer brewed here is what is known in Germany by the name of Bavarian. It is called the Waldschloss brewery, from a small Lustschloss which stood in its neigh- bourhood. The " Waldschlosses Bier" enjoys a deserved reputation far and near. The building contains rooms for visitors, and there is a terrace much frequented owing to the fine view from it. The brewery forms a striking ob- ject, looking up the reach of the river from the end of the Bruhl terrace. A short distance above the Baths of Link, on the top of the hill beneath which the Elbe flows, is Findlater's, a house so called from a Scotch noble- man who resided here. After his death it became a public garden, but has been recently purchased, with the 4 ad- joining vineyards, by Prince Albert of Prussia, in the name of Baron von Stockhausen. He is about to build a fine mansion here. Following the carriage road, about 3 m. from the Baths of Link, and 1-^ m. from the point where the post-road to Bautzen turns off on the 1. above Loschwitz, a small red-tiled, dilapi- dated country-house is seen, in the midst of a vineyard close to the road. This was for some time the retreat of Schiller, who wrote the greater part of his "Don Carlos" in it. The build- ing was lent to him by his friend the elder Korner (father of the poet, who resided in the house below). The view from it is very pleasing. The village immediately opposite Loschwitz, called Blase witz, has been rendered famous by Schiller, who has named the female suttler in the camp of "Wallenstein, Oustel of Blasewitz — the said Gustel being a real person who, in the poet's time, used to sell cakes at the inn close to the ferry. This is indeed a classical neighbour- hood; for before reaching Pillnitz, near the village of Hosterwitz, is the house in which C. M. von Weber com- posed his operas of " Der Freischiitz " and " Oberon." It is the first house on the rt., close to the road, after you pass an avenue of poplars running at rt. angles to the road. It is sur- rounded by walled vineyards. The excursion to the romantic Plauensche Grund and the village of Tharand is described in Ete. 90. The most interesting of all the ex- cursions round Dresden is that to the Saxon Switzerland. (Btes. 88, 89.) A traveller pressed for time, and unable to make the whole tour, should at least devote a day to visit the Bastei, Otto- walder Grund, and Konigstein, which might easily be accomplished by starting by the railroad in the morning, so as to breakfast in the inn at the Bastei, pro- ceeding thence along the rt. bank of the Elbe to Schandau, crossing the Elbe by ferry at Schandau, dining at Konigstein, and returning by the even- Mr. Muller, of ing train to Dresden. x 2 460 ROUTE 88. — SAXON SWITZERLAND. Sect. VII. the H. de Pologne, suggests the fol- lowing plan. — " The easiest and most profitable way of visiting Saxon Switz- erland, particularly for those who can- not devote much time to it, is to set out from Dresden at 11 o'cl. morn, by rail- way, with a ticket for the stat. Potscha ; there to leave the train, cross the river Elbe to "Wehlen, ascend to the Bastei rock, and go on as far as the little town of Sehandau, and sleep there. The next day the traveller goes by the Ruhstall, the Winterberg, and the Prebischthor to JTerniskretschen, where he meets the steamer for Dresden at 5 o'cl., and reaches that city at 8 in the evening." By aid of steamer and railway a good deal of the Saxon Switzerland may be visited in afternoon excursions from Dresden, leaving the quiet morn- ing hours to be devoted to the arts. Potscha stat. is the nearest to the Bastei. Konigstein may also be thus seen. ROUTE 88. THE SAXON SWITZERLAND. (A.) — DRESDEN TO PILLNITZ, THE BASTEI, SCHANDAU, KUHSTALL, PRE- BISCHTHOR, AND HIRNISKRETSCHEN. — RAILWAY. General Information. — The district called the " Saxon Switzerland" begins about 8 m. above Dresden, and extends beyond the Bohemian frontier. The name of "Switzerland" is not alto- gether appropriate, as the scenery of the two countries is very different, and it may perhaps lead to exaggerated ex- pectations, and comparisons disadvan- tageous to the Switzerland of Saxony. It has none of the glaciers, or snows, serrated ridges, and granite peaks of the real Switzerland, and its mountains are of very inferior height ; but it has scenery so peculiar, and so unlike what is found elsewhere, that though it falls short, in sublimity, to that country, the Saxon Switzerland may be visited with surprise and gratification even by those who are acquainted with the other. The river Elbe flows through the centre of it, and its banks are more interesting in this part of its comse than in any other between its source and the sea. " About 4 m. beyond Pillnitz the valley of the Elbe closes ; the moun- tains become more lofty and bare ; the majestic river, quitting at length the rugged and mountainous course which has hemmed him in from his birth in the Mountains of the Giant, and des- tined to visit, throughout the rest of his career, only scenes of industry and fertility, comes forth rejoicing from the gorges which you are about to enter. From this point up to the frontiers of Bohemia, the rocks in the neighbour- hood of the river, principally on the rt. bank, consisting of a coarse-grained sandstone, are cut in all directions into gorges, as if the chisel had been used to hew passages through them. They should rather be called lanes, so narrow are they, so deeply sunk, and so smoothly perpendicular do the gigantic walls of rock rise on both sides. The walls themselves are cut vertically into separate masses, by narrow openings reaching from the summit to the very bottom, as if a cement, which once united them, had been washed away. These perpendicular masses, again, are divided and grooved horizontally into layers, or apparent layers, like blocks regularly laid upon each other to form the wall. The extremities are seldom sharp or angular, but almost always rounded, betraying the continued action of water. They generally terminate in some singular form. Some have a huge rounded mass reclining on their sum- mit, which appears scarcely broad enough to poise it ; others have a more regular mass laid upon them, like the astragal of a Doric pillar ; others assume the form of inverted pyramids, increasing in breadth as they shoot higher into the air. Occasionally they present a still more singular appearance ; for, after tapering in a conical form to a certain elevation, they begin to dilate again as they rise higher, as if an inverted truncated cone were placed on a right truncated cone, resembling exactly, but on an infinitely greater scale, what often occurs in caverns, where the descending stalactite rests on an ascend- ing stalagmite." — Russell's Germany. The rock of this district, which ex- hibits these phenomena, is the Q>ui- Saxony. ROUTE 88. — GENERAL INFORMATION. 461 dersandstein of German geologists, agree- ing with the green-sand formation of England. " It crumbles down into a soil soft to the feet, and of sufficient consistency not to be deep or heavy, affording the easiest and least fatiguing walking to the pedestrian. It is dif- ficult to tire in such a country, where there is also abundance of shades and delicious water in every valley." — F. S. Many of the gorges, or narrow val- leys, above described, are inaccessible in carriages, so that the entire tour of the Saxon Switzerland can only be made on foot. Nevertheless, most of the finest scenes lie within the distance of a short walk from some carriage-road ; and notice is taken in the following route of those spots where travellers may leave their carriage, and of others to which it may be sent round to meet them. Guides may be found at the principal inns of the district, who will conduct strangers to the most interest- ing spots, by the shortest ways. A thaler a day is the usual trinkgeld. All that is best worth noticing is described in the following routes, and may be seen in three days by a person who does not object to rise early, and who is moderately strong a-foot. On the first day, he may breakfast or dine at the Bastei. The baths of Schandau afford good sleeping accommodation, and may be chosen for the resting-place for the first and second nights, and Dresden may be reached early on the third evening. Pedestrians, who make the whole joivrney on foot, will require 4 days, or at least 3 and a half, and will find the best lodgings to be, for the 1st night, the Bastei ; 2nd, Great Winter- berg; 3rd, Schandau or Konigstein: but as the country from Dresden to Pillnitz, or Pirna, is dull and flat, it is best to take the railway to Pirna (?), or to take the steamer on the Elbe. Donkeys, ponies, and chaises-a-porteurs may be hired at all the principal sta- tions for ladies and those who cannot walk. The mode of travelling may be agreeably varied on returning, by de- scending the Elbe in the steamer, or in boats called Gondeln, which may be hired in the towns and' villages along the banks. A visit to the Saxon Switzerland is now facilitated by the Steamers on the Elbe (see p. 458), and by the Railway. " An abbreviated Tour might satisfy many already acquainted with moun- tain scenery, who wish to see as much of the Saxon Switzerland as can be con- tained in an enlarged circuit from Dresden to Teplitz. By leaving Dres- den in the morning by the train to Pirna, which is reached in -| h., cross- ing the Elbe, and walking through Ottowald, the Bastei • may be gained before noon. The traveller may dine, and either cross the Elbe, ascend the highly interesting fortress of Konig- stein, and then recross it to Schandau, or may walk to Hochstein and Hohn- stein, and thence by the Brand reach Schandau early, and spend the evening in its agreeable neighbourhood." " Next day he may visit the Kuhstall and Prebischthor with the Great Win- terberg; then return to the Elbe at Hernnskretschen, and follow the banks to Tetschen, whence by taking a car- riage he may easily reach Teplitz in the evening." — Pr. F. The carriage road along the rt. bank of the Elbe, by Pillnitz to the Bastei and Schandau, is now nearly superseded by the railway to Prague, which starts from the Neustadt in Dresden, crosses the Elbe, and, sweeping round the S. side of the town, skirts (1.) the great Gar- den; (rt.) Moreau's monument (p. 458) ; and thence follows the winding course of the Elbe, along the 1. bank of that river. Potscha is the Stat, for the Bastei, crossing the ferry to "Wehlen : at Rathen is another ferry leading to the Bastei. Konigstein Stat, is 40 min. walk from the fortresss. Krippen is the stat. for Schandau, whence omnibus goes to the Kuhstall. Niedergrund, the first stat. in Bohemia, is l^m. from Herrnskr etschen . Pillnitz (Inn and restaurant near the palace) in summer is the residence of the Court of Saxony from May to Sep- tember. The Palace, built 1818, in the place of a previous one destroyed by fire, is not very imposing externally, but it contains some very good modern frescoes by the Saxon artist Vogcl ; those in the Great Saloon represent the 462 ROUTE 88. PILLN1TZ. THE BASTEI. Sect. VII. Arts — Painting, Sculpture, Architec- ture, and Music. The chapel is adorned with several subjects by the same artist, exhibiting more of the refined conception and bold execution of the old masters than is usually found in modern works of this class. " During the residence of the Court, strangers can be admitted at j- before 3 to a gal- lery in the dining-hall to see the royal party at dinner, offering the only instance at the present time in Europe of a sovereign dining in public : the gallery is usually filled." — L. M. r. PiUnitz was the place of meeting of a Congress of Sovereigns, in 1791, includ- ing the Empr. Leopold II., Frederick William II. of Prussia, the Due d'Artois (afterwards Charles X.), Ca- lonne, and many French exiles, who projected a crusade against revolution- ary France as the means of reinstating the Bourbons on its throne. There are gardens and hot-houses attached to the palace, and agreeable walks along the heights above pleasure-grounds. The Porsberg, an hour's walk to the N.E., commands fine prospects. Beyond Pillnitz the carriage-road quits the bank of the Elbe, and pro- ceeds along an avenue of trees, through the village of Ober-Boyritz, to Lohmen. The road to Lohmen lies by the side of one of those glens or gorges for which this country is remarkable, called 'Liebethaler Grund. Though pretty, it is inferior in beauty to many others ; so that persons pressed for time may re- serve themselves for the Ottowalder Grund on the other side of Lohmen. It takes about 2 hrs. to walk through the Liebethaler Grund, and carriages may be sent round to Lohmen. A beau- tiful stream runs, or rather rolls, down the glen, leaving scarcely room to walk by the side. The path passes large quarries, from which millstones are obtained, and leads up the glen as far as the Lochmiihle, a mill sunk deep in the gorge, and wedged .in between per- pendicular cliffs. The path lies through the miller's house, where refreshments may be obtained ; and then, ascending out of the gorge by a flight of some 180 steps, proceeds along the top of the cliffs, by Dauba, to Lohmen, a small village with a poor country inn, and an old castle on the brink of a precipice, from which a peasant is said to have fallen while asleep into the depth below, and to have recovered from his injuries. After traversing the greater part of the long village of Lohmen, a footpath turns off suddenly to the rt. to Otto- walde, or TJttewalde, distant 2 m. The Ottowalder Grund, another ravine, also to be traversed only on foot, and which no one should omit to explore, is remarkable for the height of its sides and the narrow space separating its walls asunder, so that the sun scarce penetrates into its depths. It possesses some remarkable objects : 1st. Das Thor, "the gate;" where 3 large cubic-shaped masses of rock, having fallen from above, are jammed in between them so as to form a natural roof, under which, as under an arch, the traveller must pass. Then comes the " Stone House," being various large masses of rock exactly resembling the roof of a house. 3rdlv. Teufels Kuche, or " Devil's Kitchen," a large natural excavation, which puts one in mind of the Abbot's Kitchen at Glastonbury. Shortly after this, the ravine divides into 2 ways : the rt. leads to Wehlen ; the 1. hand path, emerging from the depths of the Ottowalder Grund, crosses the carriage-road from Dresden and Lohmen, and brings you at the end of -5 hr's. walk to the verge of the gigantic precipice called The Bastei, or Bastion ; close to which there is a tolerable Inn, much thronged, however, in summer. The Bastei, from which is obtained by far the finest view in the whole dis- trict, " is the name given to one of the largest masses of rock which rise close by the river on the rt. bank. One narrow block, on the very summit, projects into the air. Perched on this, not on, but beyond, the brink of this precipice, you command a prospect which, in its kind, is unique in Europe. You hover on the pinnacle, at an eleva- tion of more than 600 ft. above the Elbe, which sweeps round the bottom of the precipice. Behind, and up along the winding river on the same bank, rise similar precipitous cliffs, cut and Saxony. ROUTE 88. — THE BASTEI. 463 intersected like those already described. From the farther bank, the plain gra- dually elevates itself into an irregular amphitheatre, terminated by a lofty but rounded range of mountains. The striking feature is, that, in the bosom of this amphitheatre, a plain of the most varied beauty, huge columnar hills start up at once from the ground, at a great distance from each other, overlooking, in lonely and solemn grandeur, each its own portion of the domain. They are monuments which the Elbe has left standing to comme- morate its triumph over their less hardy kindred. The most remarkable among them are the Lilienstein and Konigstein, which tower, nearly in the centre of the picture, to a height of about 900 ft. above the level of the Elbe. They rise perpendicularly from a sloping base, formed of debris, and now covered with natural wood. The access to the sum- mit is so difficult, that an Elector of Saxony and King of Poland thought the exploit which he performed in scrambling up to the top of the Lilien- stein deserving of being commemorated by an inscription. The access to the Konigstein is artificial, for it has long been a fortress ; and, from the strength of the situation, is still a virgin one. Besides these, the giants of the terri- tory, the plain is studded with many other columnar eminences of the same general character, though on a smaller scale ; and they all bear, from time im- memorial, their particular legends — for the mountains of Saxony and Bohemia are the native country of tale-telling tradition, the cradle of Gnomes and Kobolds. In the deep rents and gloomy recesses of the Lilienstein, hosts of spirits still watch over concealed trea- sures. A holy nun, miraculously trans- ported from the irregularities of her convent to the summit of the Nonnen- stein, that she might spend her days in prayer and purity in its caverns, is commemorated in the name of the rock; and the Jungfernsprung, or Leap of the Virgin, perpetuates the memory of the Saxon maid, who, when pursued by a brutal lustling, threw herself from the brink of its hideous precipice, to die unpolluted.' ' — Russell's Germany . These stiff bare rocks, rising from the earth, manifest, though now disjoined, that they once formed one body, all the softer parts of which have mouldered away, and left only the naked, inde- structible framework. The scene beheld from the Bastei will most assuredly detain the traveller for hours. The view over the plain, however, is not the only wonder of this remarkable spot. Behind, and at one side of the Bastei, numerous gigantic pinnacles of rock, separated from the main body by rents and chasms of tre- mendous depth, shoot upwards to a great height, in every variety of fan- tastic forms. So slight and slender are these natural pillars and obelisks, that it is difficult to understand how they maintain themselves upright at a height of several hundred feet. "Numerous tufts of large trees have struck root in this world of rocks, where there appears not an inch of earth to nourish them." — L. These slender pinnacles have been rendered accessible from the main land by slight wooden bridges spanning the chasms. A band of robber knights in former times set up a nest-like castle upon some of the loftiest and apparently most inaccessible of them ; it was called Burg Neurathen, and scanty remains of its masonry are still visible. The entrance on one side was through a natural arch and over a drawbridge; the approach on the other lay through a cleft 3 ft. wide, and was closed by a portcullis formed of a slab of stone, which ran in grooves still visible in the rocky walls. The narrow planks with which the robbers bridged the chasms around them were easily removed when danger threatened, and their stronghold was then impregnable. From this lofty eyrie they watched the approach of vessels on the Elbe, and dashed down to pillage or make captive, being long- enabled by their position to bid defiance to legal authority. This fortress was at length destroyed in 1468 ; but in 1639, during the horrors of the XXX Years' War, many poor refugees, driven out of their houses in the plain, sought shelter from the enemy among these crags. There is a carriage-road from the 464 ROUTE 88. — HOCHSTEIN. SCHANDAU. KUHSTALL. Sect. VII. Bastei to Schandau, "leaving- Hohn- stein on the opposite side of the ravine, on the 1., and winding down a long and gradual descent towards the Elbe, among rocks and thickets, commanding views by turns into the ravine on the 1., and into the valley of the Elbe, in- cluding the noble rock of Lilienstein, on the rt. It is one of the finest land- scapes in the Saxon Switzerland." A steep path also descends through the narrow cleft above mentioned to the margin of the Elbe and the village of Eathen, at the foot of the Bastei. At Eathen a ferry takes you over the Elbe, and the traveller bound for Teplitz or Prague, and not intending to. descend the Elbe again, may cross here and follow the 1. bank as far as Konigstein (p. 466), after which, re- erossing the river higher up, opposite to Schandau, he may either retrace his steps down the rt. bank as far as the Tiefer Grund, and proceed through it to Hohnstein and the Brand, or go at once to Schandau. From tbe foot of the Bastei at Eathen a path threads the bottom of other ravines as far as Hochstein. The waterfall of the Amstel Grund, though much praised by the natives, is but a sorry affair, especially after the cataracts of Switzerland; indeed, there is not one waterfall in the whole of this dis- trict worth the trouble of stepping 2 yards aside to see it. Hochstein is a projecting promontory of rock, 400 ft. high, commanding a good view, approachable by a frail bridge thrown over a deep dark gulf, or yawning abyss, called Wolfsschlucht. It is made accessible by ladders and by steps cut in the sides ; and, from traces of walls and iron hooks fastened in the rock, it is probable that there was once a fort here, serving as a watch-tower or outwork to the castle of Hohnstein on the opposite side of the valley. Hohnstein is a village of 900 inhab., with a Castle, which is surrounded on all sides by precipices. The fearful dungeons were once used as state prisons. Accommodation may be had at the Weissen Hirsch. A carriage^road leads from Hohn- stein to the Brand, another very good point of view, but inferior to the Bastei. The road then passes down the Tiefer Grund, a valley so narrow that the sun appears rarely to penetrate it, to the banks of the Elbe, which it follows for about 1-5 m., till it reaches Schandau. Inns: Sachsischer Schweitz; Dampfschiff, on the Elbe; Forsthaus, good ; Deutsches Haus ; Badhaus, an inn out of the town about J m. up the valley of the Kirnitsch, at a spot where a mineral spring supplies some baths, much frequented by Dresdeners in sum- mer, rather dear. Schandau is a town of 1000 inhab. on the rt. bank of the Elbe, here crossed by a ferry at the junction of a streamlet called Kirnitsch. From its central situation, Schandau is convenient head-quarters for those who propose to explore at their ease the Saxon Switzerland; and there is a stat. on the Dresden and Prague rail- way at Krippen, about f m. after cross- ing the ferry. A good walker, setting out early from Schandau, might visit in one day the Kuhstall, "Winterberg, Prebischthor, and Hernnskretschen, and return without much exertion to sleep at the Baths. A carriage-road runs up the beau- tiful valley of the Kirnitsch, to within a mile of the Kuhstall, about 6 m. from Schandau, where a path turns abruptly to the rt., across a brook and up a steep wooded hill, and, after a mile of ascent, brings you to the Kuhstall. Ladies not strong a-foot may be carried up in a sedan-chair by two stout bearers, who will be found in readiness near the spot. An omnibus (stellwagen) runs up the valley. The portion of the Saxon Switzer- land, beyond Schandau, which it re- mains to describe, is traversed only by foot-paths and cart-tracts, and is inac- cessible for a carriage, which must therefore be left at Schandau to await the traveller's return. The Kuhstall (cow-stall) is a natural arch or cave in the rock, 30 ft. high and 40 wide, under which one passes to a sort of terrace commanding a most striking view of the valley far below. During the Thirty Tears' "War the peasants drove their cattle hither for safety, whence its name. Many of the Saxony. ROUTE 88. — WINTERBERG. PREBISCHTHOR. 4G5 persecuted Protestants, expelled from Bohemia by the Emp. Ferdinand II. and the Jesuits, took refuge here with their families. This cave forms the frame to a singular picture. "The traveller sees around him rocks heaped upon rocks, many crowned with fir- trees, reminding an Englishman of the scenery near Tunhridge Wells, only on a much grander scale. A narrow fissure in the sandstone, which can just be ascended by a person of moderate size, leads to a platform on the top of the Kuhstall. The Wochenbett is a cavern so named, because the ' women in the straw' were placed there for greater security, when this spot was an asylum for the persecuted." — L. An abrupt descent through a chasm, literally a crack in the rock, on the 1. of the Kuhstall, leads into the valley, where a sand-strown and easily dis- cernible path traverses fields and forests as far as the foot of the hills called Lesser and Great "Winterberg. The Lesser "Winterberg is the steeper of the two, and more tiresome to surmount. The Great Winterberg, 2030 ft. above the level of the sea, and 1628 above the Elbe (3 m. from Kuhstall), is a knob of trap piercing through the sandstone, and one of the highest mountains in the district ; in ascending it, the guide points out a projecting rock, to the very verge of which one of the Electors of Saxony was driven by an infuriated stag which he had wounded in the chase. Just as the animal was bending down its antlers to toss him over the precipice, the prince succeeded in shoot- ing it through the heart. On the sum- mit there is a good inn, where travellers may obtain decent fare and beds, if they make up their mind to pass a night here for the sake of seeing the sun rise over the Bohemian mountains. The view is very striking, extending to the mountains of Silesia ; the various isolated hills nearer at hand rise up like pillars out of the valley of the Elbe, whose winding course is commanded for a long distance. From the Winterberg the path plunges down amidst the seared remains of the forest, which has recently been burnt, and exhibits a scene of desolation ; it soon crosses the Bohemian frontier. An hour's walk brings you to the Prebisch Thor, another natural arch, hollowed out of the rock, but more remarkable, and of much more colossal dimensions, than the Kuhstall. It is 66 ft. high, 98 broad ; the -view from the platform on the top is fine, the scenery near at hand is exceedingly wild, and the distant outline of the Erzgebirge borders the horizon. Here you may get a good dinner, and ex- perience how much cheaper everything is in the Austrian dominions than in Saxony. A steep path descends from this, and follows the course of the Biel, a small brook, and afterwards of the Kamnitz, a larger stream, turning several saw-mills, until it enters the Elbe at Hemnskretschen, or Hirniskrctschen, a small village on the estate of the Bohe- mian prince Clary, having an Inn on the Elbe, 2 h. easy walk from the Winterberg. Large timber rafts are constructed here, and arc floated down the Elbe when the water is high. There is a good view of the gorge of the Elbe from the Belvedere, a summer-house above the village. About 8 m. higher up the Elbe, within the Austrian frontier, is the . small town of Tetsehen and the hand- some chateau of Count Thun; the scenery of the Elbe hereabouts is very interesting. The road thither is rough, so that the traveller had better take the steamer (p. 458). (See Ete. 263 in Handbook for South Germany.) Boats (gondeln) may be hired on terms fixed by a printed tariff at Hernns- kretschen, to ascend or descend the Elbe. The path to Schandau, 6 m. is very rough, lying over the fragments of many stone-quarries, worked in the cliffs on the rt. bank of the river. On the opposite side of the Elbe are seen 2 of the singular columnar hills peculiar to the district, the Zirkelstein and Kahlstein. EOUTE 89. SAXON SWITZERLAND (B) — DESCENT OK THE ELBE FROM SCHANDAU TO DRES- DEN BY KONIGSTEIN AND P1RNA. Steamers daily between Aussig, Tetsehen, Schandau, and Dresden (p. x 3 466 ROUTE 89. LILIENSTEIN. KONIGSTEIN. Sect, VII. 458). The voyage down the river is very agreeable, and the traveller may on the way land at the foot of Lilien- stein, Konigstein, the Bastei, &c, and explore these spots with little fatigue. There is a ferry over the Elbe at Sehandau to the Dresden and Prague railroad on the opposite side, passing by Konigstein and Pirna, Miigeln and Niedersedlitz. rt. " The Schrammstein, a bold per- pendicular promontory of sandstone, overtops the neighbouring hills. Near the river it has a columnar fracture, but inland it assumes the form of a gigantic Cyclopean wall." — F. S. rt. Lilienstein is the highest of the 12 isolated table mountains of the Saxon Switzerland, surpassing by 168 ft. its opposite neighbour Konigstein. Its summit, 1254 ft. above the sea, is accessible from the village of Ebenheit, by narrow paths cut in the rock, and by scaling-ladders placed against the precipice. These means of access were first prepared in 1708, by order of Frederick Augustus I. of Saxony, after having himself made the ascent'; an exploit of which he was so proud, that he set up an obelisk, which still re- mains, to commemorate it (p-. 463). The view from the top extends down the Elbe as far as Dresden and Meis- sen, and upwards to the Bohemian mountains. The French laid out around the base of Lilienstein, in 1813, a fortified camp, the ramparts of which still remain in part ; it communicated by 2 bridges of boats with Konig- stein. During the Seven Years' War (1760) an army of 17,000 Saxons laid down their arms here to Frederick the Great, in sight of Augustus, their so- vereign, who was shut up at the time in the fortress. 1. ^ Konigstein [Inns : Blauer Stern, ISTeue Schenke) is a small town of 1300 inhab. on the Elbe. Above it, at a height of 779 ft. from the river, rises the virgin fortress of Konigstein, almost the only one in Europe never yet taken. " Viewed from a distance it bears a strong resemblance to one of the 'hill forts' of India, and will give an European an exact idea of those singular strongholds." — Z. M. It is deemed impregnable from its lofty situation, surrounded on all sides by perpendicular escarpments of several hundred feet, which have been im- proved by artificial cuttings, while the weaker places have been filled in with masonry ; but more than all from its isolated position, so far removed from any other height— the Lilienstein and Pfaffenstein, on opposite sides, being each 3000 yards distant — that it cannot be commanded by artillery. Napoleon endeavoured to batter it from Lilien- stein ; but, after raising 3 pieces of cannon with great difficulty to the summit, he found that the balls fell short. The guns were only 6 -pounders, and Lilienstein has been battered from Konigstein with 12 and 24-pounders. " The approach to it is most extra- ordinary, through a slanting way cut in the living rock, which rises on either side like a wall, and partly by a sloping wooden bridge, which, when removed in time of war, leaves the gateway unapproachable, high up in the face of the cliff. Besides this, it is defended by outworks and drawbridges, after the manner of many Indian hill forts."- — L. M. The platform on which the fortress is built is several acres in extent. This space is partly cultivated in fields and gardens, and includes a wood of forest-trees ; it produces a little corn, and pasturage for one or two cows, so as to suffice in part to support a garrison of 1200 men, the war com- plement, for whom 2 years' provisions are . always kept in store. In time of peace not more than 200 are stationed here. A well, cut to the depth of 613 ft. in the solid rock, supplies them with water from an inexhaustible spring ; and enormous casemates, also excavated, serve as storehouses for provisions. To this fortress Saxony owes the preserva- tion of her priceless collection of works of art, virtu, and antiquity, her picture gallery and Green Vault. Cases for every article of value in the " Green Vault " are kept ready at hand, to pack them in, and send them to Konigstein in case of war. The treasures of the Saxon monarchs have frequently been deposited here, to be out of harm's way ; and indeed Frederick Augustus Saxony. ROUTE 90. — DRESDEN TO HOF. 467 II. himself took refuge here during the Seven Years' War, and the present King lived here 3 months in 1849. A ledge projecting over the precipice has the name of the Page's Bed, from the cir- cumstance of a drunken page of the Elector John George having been found on it fast asleep. His master, to warn him of the risk he ran, and to frighten him, caused him to he tied down, and then awakened by a pistol fired close to his ear. This fortress served once as a state prison : it was scaled for the first time in 1848 by a chimney-sweep, at mid-day; he reached the top half dead with fatigue. Strangers are admitted on showing their pass- ports : nothing should prevent the tra- veller visiting it. Independently of the fortress itself, the view from its walls is most beautiful, being panora- mic, and is, perhaps, the most striking in the Saxon Switzerland, next to that from the Bastei. The Elbe almost encircles the hill of Lilienstein, and follows a tortuous course as far as Pirna, passing rt. The village of Eathen at the foot of the gigantic precipices of the Bastei, see p. 462. Travellers usually disembark at Eathen to ascend it ; 3 or 4 hrs. may be agreeably spent in enjoying the prospect from its summit, and in exploring the singular valleys around it. rt. "Wehlen, a small village. 1. The high road now quits the Elbe, and runs at a little distance from it. 1. A little above Pirna stands the Castle of Sonnenstein, on an elevated rock, at the back of which the high road passes, before it descends into the town. It was originally a fortress and a state prison. Patkul, afterwards so cruelly murdered by Charles XII., was confined in it. It was obstinately de- fended by the French in 1813. It is now a Lunatic Asylum. 1. 1-5 Pirna. — Inns : Weisses Eoss ; Schwarzer Adler, outside the walls. This small and unimportant town of 5500 inhab. lies on the high road from Dresden to Teplitz, and on the bank of the Elbe. Carriages and boats are kept for hire here. rt. Pillnitz, p. 461. rt. The ferry above Hosterwitz, p- 459. 1. The small villages of Laubegast, Tolckwitz, and Elasewitz, p. 459. rt. Loschwitz, p. 459. 2 Dresden, in Ete. 87. EOUTE 90. DRESDEN TO HOF IN BAVARIA, BY THE VALLEY OP PLAUEN, FREIBERG, ANT) CHEMNITZ. 24 Germ. m. = 116 Eng. m. — Eil- wagen to Chemnitz daily in 10 h. A railway is in progress to Chemnitz from the Eiesa Stat, of the Leipzig and Dresden railway (Ete. 87). On leaving Dresden the road crosses the small river Weisseritz, and follows its course for about 2 m. to Plauen, a village of a few houses and water-mills, at the entrance of the very picturesque glen called the Plauensche Grund, with precipitous rocky sides or slopes, over- grown with underwood. It has been compared to the scenery of Hackfall, in Yorkshire. The road passes through it by the side of the Weisseritz, a stream very useful in turning the wheels of many mills, which give a lively air to its banks. The valley opens out into a broad green meadow, near the industrious village of Pots- chappel, close to which there are coal- mines, iron forges, glass-works, &c. Agates are found in the rocks around, and in the beds of the streams ; coke is made here to supply the smelting furnaces at Freiberg. 2| Tharand (Inns : Deutsches Haus ; Hirsch), a watering-place and village with 1000 inhab. : its mineral baths are much frequented in summer by the inhabitants of Dresden. It is ro- mantically situated on a spot where 3 valleys meet, 2 of them sending forth streams which unite and flow through the Plauensche Grund into the Elbe. It takes but 10 min. to ascend from the inn to the ruins of the Old Castle, perched on a promontory of rock, from which you look down into the deep and picturesque valley on cither side. The ruin is the remains of a hunting-seat of the ancestors of the present King of Saxony. It is worth while to take a 468 ROUTE 90. — FREIBERG. CATHEDRAL. Sect. VII. guide to explore some of the other pretty walks in this neighbourhood, such as the Forstgarten, from which there is a fine view, and the heech avenue called the Heilige Hallen. The Forstgarten is a nursery forest, containing 1000 species of trees and shrubs attached to the Forst-Academie subsisting here, in which a certain number of students are instructed in the forester's art, and in everything relating to planting trees and rearing timber. On the banks of the river Mulde, which the road crosses on approaching Freiberg, are several silver-mines ; the chief is that called Himmelfahrt (As- cension). The traveller's attention is arrested by the ceaseless tinkling of a bell. This is attached to the works of the mines, and its use is to give notice to the miners that all is right in the works below. If a rope break, or any other accident befall the machinery, the bell ceases to ring, and attention is thus instantly called to it. 2| Freiberg (Inns : Buchwald's Hotel; Schwarzes Ross — Black Horse), an ancient and decayed imperial city, still surrounded by its old walls and ditch. It once contained 40,000 inhab. in the days of its prosperity ; it has now only 13,000. It is the capital of the mining district of Saxony, and its rise and fall have kept pace with the productiveness of its silver-mines, which were dis- covered and worked as far back as the 12 th cent. They have of late much fallen off, owing in a great degree to the richest veins being worked out, or to the shafts being driven so deep that it is impossible to drain off the water from them. A project for clearing them, by piercing a tunnel through the mountains to the Elbe at Meissen, is in progress, and is certainly one of the most stupendous undertakings of the kind in Europe, its length being about 24 m. It has been calculated by Breithaupt, that the Freiberg mines have produced, in the 640 years during which they have been worked, down to 1825, 82,000 cwt. of silver, or the worth of 240 millions of dollars. The amount of silver gained in 1 850 equalled 800,000 dollars. Freiberg was long the residence of the Saxon princes, who bestowed on it many immunities and privileges, and several of whom are interred in the Born Kxrche (Cathedral'), a handsome Gothic building, dating from 1484. In the choir behind the altar is the tomb of Maurice of Saxony, a lofty sarco- phagus, richly adorned with sculpture, surmounted by his kneeling effigy, by one Floras, an artist of Antwerp. Above it, in a niche, is placed the armour worn by him at the battle of Sievershausen, where he was killed, after gaining the victory, by a shot from behind ; the hole made by the bullet is still visible. The standards taken in the battle were hung over his grave ; they have dropped to pieces with age, and the wormeaten staves will not long outlast them. In the Lady Chapel adjoining are buried Henry the Pious and his successors down to Christian I., by whom it was built, 1593. It is enriched with Saxon marble and serpentine, and contains some fine bronze gilt statues by P. Boselli ; the pavement is inlaid with 29 veiy fine brasses, not unlike those of England. The cloisters are converted into a sort of Museum of Antiquities. Other curiosities of this church are two pulpits of Gothic workmanship, curiously carved in stone ; one is sup- ported by figures of the master mason and his apprentice who executed it. The Golden Gate is a richly ornamented round portal, in the Romanesque style, date 1175-89, which belonged to the Frauenkirche, destroyed by fire in 1484 ; the sculpture shows very good feeling for art ■ it is well worth notice. Beside it is the tomb of the celebrated geolo- gist Werner, who died here in 1817. Once a quarter a sermon is preached in this church to the miners, who all attend in a body. " The Rathhaus, near the church, is a good specimen of 1ST. German Gothic (built 1410). The old houses are en- tered by an ornamental arch with a niche and seat on either side, a fashion prevalent in Saxony and Silesia." — F. S. In the market-place, opposite the guard-house, a flat round stone in the Saxony. ROUTE 90. — FREIBERG. MINES AND MINERS. 469 pavement marks the spot where Kunz of Kaufungen, the robber-knight, who stole the two young Saxon princes, Ernest and Albert, from their father's palace, was beheaded, 1455. The School of Mines (Berg- Academic) is the most renowned in Germany, and t students repair hither for instruction in the art of mining from all quarters of the globe. Humboldt, Werner, Jameson of Edinburgh, Mohs, and many other eminent mineralogists and geologists, were pupils in this institu- tion. Instructions are given by pro- fessors both in the practice and theory of the art ; in surveying, mining, and the preparation of ores, as well as in geology, mineralogy, &c. The Museum of the School of Mines is very rich in remarkable specimens of all the mineral productions of Saxony, and includes the splendid and useful collection of "Werner himself. It is not deficient in the geological depart- ment and in fossils. The Collection of Models of the Mines, mid the Machinery used in them, will give an uninitiated person a clear idea of the nature of a miner's operations, or at least will pre- pare one who purposes visiting them for understanding the processes when on the spot. There is an office for the sale of minerals attached to this esta- blishment. There are said to be about 130 Mines of silver, copper, lead, and co- balt, round Freiberg : the prevailing- rock in which they are situated is a primary gneiss. To see a mine tho- roughly will occupy about 3 h. A permission must first be obtained from the Bergmeister, in Freiberg. Stran- gers are provided with a miner's dress at the entrance of the mine. Most of the mines are distant a mile or two from the town, and proper guides are appointed to conduct persons thither. The mine most conveniently visited, perhaps, is that called the Eurfurst (Elector), because it is large and dry ; it lies near Gross*Schirma. The Alte Mord Grube (Old Murder Mine) has very remarkable hydraulic pumps for extracting the water. The principal ores of silver are, argentiferous sulphuret of lead, native silver, and red silver. The Amalgamir - Werk at Halsbriick, about 3 m. out of the town, where the pure silver is obtained from the less productive ores by amalgamation with quicksilver, is well worth seeing. The process is carried on here .upon the most scientific principles. At Halsbriick are also situated many smelting-furnaces. What is called the ffebehaus, a sort of crane (like the staiths on the Tyne), by which boats are raised out of the Mulde into a canal, is a guide-book wonder not worth the trouble of the walk. The Miners of the Saxon Erzgebirge are a somewhat primitive class. Their form of salutation is by the words " Gliick auf." They are enrolled in a sort of semi-military corps, of which the common workmen are the privates, and the superintendents and managers the officers. They are called out se- veral times a year for inspection or parade, and in addition assemble in a body at certain stated times to attend miners' prayers in the church, at the funeral of a superior officer, during the visit of a royal personage, and on days of rejoicing for the discovery of a rich vein. On these occasions they appear in uniform, their leather aprons fastened on behind, leather pockets in the place of cartouche-boxes, and a large knife stuck in the girdle. The common miners march with their pickaxes shouldered, the carpenters with their axes, and the smiths with their ham- mers borne in the same fashion. These processions have a martial appearance, are headed by a band playing a miners' march, and accompanied by flying co- lours. The officers have similar uni- forms, distinguished according to their rank. All, up to the chief, or Berg- Hauptman, whether in working cos- tume or in full dress, wear the singular hinder -apron, which, from its position, bears a very significant name. Even the sovereign, were he to appear on the spot, as head miner of Saxony, could not dispense with this appendage. To be deprived of it is the greatest disgrace to which the miner can be subjected ; he thereby loses his privilege, and the dishonour is equal to that of knocking off the spurs from a knight's heels. 470 ROUTE 90. CHEMNITZ : MANUFACTURES. ZWICKAU. Sect. VII. The road from Freiberg to Carlsbad by Joacbimstbal is described in Hand- book for South Germany. (Rte. 259.) After quitting Freiberg, our road leaA^es on the rt. tbe hamlet of Gross Schirma, and passes the mines of Neu- Gottes-Segen (New Blessing of God), and farther on of Himmelsfiirst (Prince of Heaven), once the richest in the district, and one of the most productive mines in Europe, about 2 m. S.E. from Freiberg. 2| Oederan (Inns : Post ; Hirsch), a manufacturing town of 3130 inhab. The little village Flohe is remarkable as the birthplace of the eminent states- man and lawyer Sam. Puffendorf, whose father was the minister here. On the rt. of the village of Flohe rises the castle of Augustusburg , built 1572 by the Elector Augustus. It has a well 286 yards deep, cut in the rock ; and a lime-tree 400 years old is still growing in its garden. The chapel contains 2 pictures by L. Cranach. 2| Chemnitz (Inn, Romischer Kaiser) is the principal manufacturing town in Saxony (26,000 inhab.), situated in a beautiful and well- watered valley. The cotton goods, especially stockings, for which it is chiefly celebrated, and to which it owes its present prosperity, rival even the English in quality and cheapness. In the quantity of hosiery produced Saxony already equals Great Britain. The spacious factory of Becker and Schraps, the largest in Saxony, has 18,600 spindles. Stock- ings for the American market, which are almost exclusively supplied hence, are made here at the low rate of 3s. 4d. a dozen. " The chief inferiority to the British lies in their want of elasticity. The stocking-weavers for the most part are not congregated into manu- factories, but live in cottages of their own, the fee-simple of which they have purchased by their own earnings. They cultivate in their own gardens the potatoes and other vegetables which form their usual food, and support from the same source the animals which pro- vide them with the small quantity of meat they consume : they live com- monly with great frugality on potatoes and coffee. "When the demand for manufacture is slack, they employ themselves in the field and garden ; when it is active, they devote them- selves to their frames and looms. The state provides them with gratuitous instruction, which has the happiest effect both on their industry and fru- gality." — Bowring. Chemnitz is also famous for the manufacture of spinning machinery, which is sent to all parts of the Continent. For 400 years it was a free imperial city, and still displays in its buildings marks of its antiquity. The ancient walls which formerly sur- rounded it have been pulled down, and their site converted into a pleasant Boulevard connecting the old town with its fine thriving suburbs. On the outskirts of the town is the Schloss, a conventual building of 1125, turned into a ducal residence by the Elector Maurice, now an inn, but retaining some ancient portions. The Great Church, Stadtkirche, has a richly carved portal, imitating a framework of boughs, carved in stone, 1525 ; 'jwithin, a stone pulpit with bas-reliefs, 1536, and an altar-piece of which the original centre is destroyed, but the wings, painted with 4 saints, are probably by Wohlgemuth. Next to it the chief buildings are the Rathhaus and Gewandhaus (cloth hall). A Railway connects Chemnitz with Riesa, on the Leipzig and Dresden line, and the part between Biesa and Dobeln was opened in 1847. 2| Lungwitz, a long village filled with stocking-weavers. Beyond Lich- tenstein the road traverses the valley of Miilsengrund, whose 8000 inhab. are chiefly stockingers. 2| Zwickau (Inns : Post ; Tanne), on the banks of the Zwickauer-Mulde, has 5300 inhab. St. Mary's Ch. y the finest Gothic edifice in the Erzgebirge, date 1453-1536, is distinguished by its tall tower, which Luther often ascended on account of the pleasing view it com- mands. Within the ch. is a very fine altar-piece by the old German master Wohlgemuth, representing the Virgin and female saints, surrounded by a richly carved wooden frame-work, executed 1479, with statues of saints Saxony. ROUTE 91. — LEIPZIG TO HOF. 471 sculptured in wood. The Holy Se- pulchre, in the sacristy, is also a work of art. In the Baptismal Chapel is a good picture hy Cranach, " Suffer the little Children." The ch. of St. Ca- therine is a fine Gothic huilding (date 1405). The high altar-piece, the Feet Washing and other subjects, is by an artist of the Nuremberg school. There is a good road from Zwickau to Carlsbad, through Schneeberg and the Erzgebirge. (Rte. 91 a.) About 15 m. S.E. of Zwickau, at Aue, there are extensive cobalt-mines and smalt-works. Near this also is dug the porcelain earth from which the china manufactory of Meissen is supplied. The serpentine stone, which is turned in the lathe and manufactured into va- rious articles, conies from the quarries at Zoblitz. A branch railway, 1 Germ. m. in length, connects Zwickau with the Leipzig and Hof Railway (Rte. 91), at the Werdau station. See Rte. 91 for the remainder of the way to Hof. ROUTE 91. LEIPZIG TO HOF BY ALTENBURG AND WERDAU. RAILWAY. 19 Germ. m. = 91f Eng. m. This Railroad was completed 1851 from Leipzig to Hof (with a branch to Zwickau). It ascends the valley of the Pleisse, crossing that stream. 2^ Kieritsch Stat. 2~ Altenburg Stat. (Tnws : Stadt Go- tha, good ; Hirsch), the capital of the Duchy of Saxe Altenburg on the Pleisse, has 14,200 inhab. The Palace (Schloss), on an escarped rock, was often the residence of Charlemagne, who here invested Otto of Wittelsbaeh with the Duchy of Bavaria. It con- sists of an older part dating from the 18th cent., and a modern portion ; it is worth visiting, and contains an ar- moury. Out of one of its apartments the Robber Knights, Kunz of Kauf- ungen and "William von Mosen, stole the young Saxon princes, Ernest and Albert, in 1445. The ducal family re- side in the modern part, built in the 18th cent. The Rathhaus in the market-place is picturesque. The Gothic Ch. (Stift St. Georg), 1412, containing exquisitely carved stalls, &c, of that date, deserves notice. The Mantel Thurm and Schloss Gate are very ancient. The Damm is the name of an agree- able promenade around a sheet of water on the S. side of the town. The inhabitants of the Duchy of Altenburg, by descent Wends, a branch of the Slavonic family (see p. 400), are distinguished by their very peculiar and old-fashioned costumes handed down to them by their ancestors. The petti- coats of the women, like a Highlander's kilt, reach no further than the knee ; their bodies are enclosed in a cuirass of basket-work, and their heads are sur- mounted by a conical cap of portentous dimensions. The people have lost their language and speak German, but re- tain many old customs as well as their dress. Near Altenburg and Gera the Saxon tin-mines are situated. For the road from Altenburg to Dresden see Rte. 94a. 2 Gossnitz Stat. If Krimmitschau Stat. 1\ Werdau Stat. Beyond this station a branch railway, 1 Germ. m. long, turns off to Zwickau. (Rte. 90.) 1. rises the castle of Schonfels on a wooded height. Neumarkt Stat. Reichenbach Stat. [Inns : Daes Lamm; Engel) is a thriving manu- facturing town ; it has 4500 inhab., who are chiefly employed in the manufac- ture of muslin, and in spinning and weaving cotton and wool into kersey- meres, merinos, flannel, and " English thread." A fire in 1833 destroyed a great part of the town. Beyond Reichenbach Stat, the Rail- way is carried over the deep Goltsch- thal on a high level bridge 2046 ft. long (\ m.) and 278 ft. high, where the valley is deepest. It is composed of 4 tiers of arches, one over the other, but in the centre the stream is crossed by 2 arches, one above the other, 90 ft. span. 472 ROUTE 91 a.— LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. Sect. VII. There are 80 arches in this structure — the grandest of its sort in Germany. Nearer to Plauen the river and vale of the Elster are bridged by another viaduct of a different and more elegant design, 891 ft. long and 225 ft. high, consisting of a lower tier of 2 arches, 93 ft. span, surmounted by an upper tier of 6 arches. It is chiefly of brick -work. 3 Plauen [Inns : Post ; Deutsches Haus), a town of 11,000 inhab., also deriving prosperity from manufactures of linen, cotton, and muslin. It is irre- gularly built on uneven ground, and is traversed by the stream of the White Elster, which waters a romantic valley, and produces pearls ; a royal fishery is established at Oelsnitz for collecting them. A great part of the town is new, rebuilt after a fire which consumed it in 1844. The old Castle (called Rath- schauer), rising high above the town, was in ancient times the residence of the Bailiff, or Voigt (Advocatus regni), from whom the surrounding district got the name of Voigtland ; it is now con- verted into public offices. The railway passes over the high land which forms the watershed of the Elster and the Saale. The country is rather pleasing, partly cultivated, and partly covered with fir woods. Meltheuer Stat. Eeuth Stat. About 4 m. beyond this the railway crosses the Bavarian frontier. Hof Stat. — Inns: Hirsch, at the Railway ; Brandenburger Hof. This is the first Bavarian town ; it contains 8000 inhab., and possesses important manufactures of cotton and woollen goods. Its situation is so elevated that only the hardier kinds of fruits come to perfection. The country around is bleak and barren ; the rock is primary lime- stone abounding in fossils ; and there are many iron-mines in the district. The town of Hof was burnt down for the tenth time recorded in its annals in 1832, and consequently a large part is newly built. A handsome Eathhaus and a church were erected in 1833, but the place has nothing to detain the tra- veller. The frontiers of Saxony, Reuss, Prussia (the town of Gefall is Prussian), and Bohemia, are not more than 10 m. distant from Hof. An extensive smug- gling trade is carried on with Bohemia. The Railway connects Hof with Nu- remberg and Augsburg, passing Kulm- bach, Lichtenfels, and Bamberg. (See Handbook for S. Germany, Route 172.) ROUTE 91 a. LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. N.B. It is advisable to have the signature of an Austrian Minister on the passport before commencing the journey to Carlsbad. Proceed by the Railway described in Route 91, as far as Zwickau. From Zwickau the road to Carlsbad, 11^ Germ, m., conducts to 4 Schneeberg [Inns: Sachsischer Hof, good ; Fiirstenhaus), an import- ant mining town of 7500 inhab., chiefly engaged in the mines, and in preparing the ores of silver, cobalt, &c, obtained from them. There is also a consider- able manufactory of smalt here. That used in the Dresden china is prepared here from the cobalt. The town was founded 1471, in consequence of the discovery of the mines. The Parish Church is a very fine building, in the latest Gothic, 1516-40. Its altar-piece is the finest work of the elder Cranach, the Crucifixion, and at the back the Last Judgment, with 8 wings or shut- ters ; they are interesting as specimen- of Protestant art, and the treatment of sacred subjects after the Reformation. Schneeberg snuff, a preparation of herbs found on the mountains of the Erzge- birge, taken as common snuff, is said to be good for sore eyes, and to cure head- aches. In the neighborhood are the picturesque castles of Stein, Eisenburg, and Wiesenburg. The mining district of the Erzge- birge (ore mountains) displays few of the beauties of nature on its surface. Her bounty has here been expended below ground, where she has stored away, for the use of man, vast supplies of silver, lead, tin, iron, cobalt, and coal. The soil is poor, vegetation is scanty, and is further checked in the vicinity of the mines by the vapours from smelting furnaces ; and the face of the country is Saxony. ROUTE 92. CASSEL TO EISENACH. 473 disfigured by hillocks of rubbish, and heaps of slag. The road passes through Eiben- stock (Inn, Sachsischcrd Hof), a mining- town of 4400 inhab. ; in and about it are furnaces, foundries, and tin-mines. 3 Wildenthal. (Inn, Post.) Hence to Carlsbad there are two roads. (See the other described in Bte. 94 a.) On the road here described there are no relays of post-horses between Wilden- thal and Carlsbad. 1\ Johann - Georgenstadt (vulgarly called Hansgorgenstadt) . — Inns : Bath- skeller; Schiesshaus. A mining town, named after the Elector John George, in whose reign it was built as an asylum for the Protestants driven out of Bo- hemia by Ferdinand II., 1654. It has about 3400 inhab. It stands in a rough and very elevated district, a sort of Saxon Siberia, whose produce lies be- neath the barren surface, and consists of silver, tin, lead, iron, cobalt, bismuth, uranium, &c. The men are chiefly miners, the women employ themselves in making bobbinet. Hence to the Bohemian frontier is not more than ^ am. 4 Carlsbad, in Handbook for South Gkrmany (Bte. 260). The nearest road from Carlsbad to Dresden is by Joachimsthal, Annaberg, and Freiberg. South Germany". (Bte. 259.) EOUTE 92. CASSEL TO EISENACH — (RAILWAY) TO MEININGEN AND COBURG-. The Friedrich - Wilhelms Nordbahn connects Cassel with Eisenach. Trains in 4 h. Eisenach to Coburg, 14f Germ. m. == 68^ Eng. m. The railway, as far as Bebra, runs through the valley of the Fulda, on the rt. bank of that river. (hmtershausen Stat. This station is the point of junction of the Railways from Eisenach and Halle, upon the Fraiikfurt and Cassel line. Bte. 70. Melsungen Stat. The Fulda is crossed. Morschen Stat. Rothenburg Stat. Bebra Stat, on the Fulda. Gerstungen Stat. This town is n the Duchy of Weimar, on the river Werra, along the valley of which the railway runs, crossing it 3 times, to Eisenach (Bte. 86). Schnellpost daily fromEisenach to Meiningen and Coburg, after the arrival of the morning train from Cassel. The valley of the Werra, below Eisenach, to Kreuzberg and Eschwege, is picturesque and fertile ; the Meissner hiH is a fine object. From Eisenach the road runs nearly S., traversing a hilly district, almost entirely covered with the woods of the great Thuringian Forest. It surmounts one of the highest ridges of the district, at the pass of Hohe Sonne. On the opposite descent lies Wilhelmsthal, a chateau of the Duke of Saxe- Weimar. At Gumpelstadt a road turns off to the 1. to the Bath of Liebenstein (Inns: Badhaus, good; Neubau), charmingly situated on the skirts of the Thuringian Forest. The court of Saxe Meiningen passes a portion of the bath season here, in the building called Furstenhaus. The spring furnishes one of the strongest chalybeate waters in Germany, more used for bathing than drinking. Lie- benstein affords the usual amusements of a watering-place — daily music on the walks, baUs, concerts, gaming- tables, and theatrical performances during the season. A little way behind the baths is the Erdfall, a deep recess in the mountain side, piled round with masses of rock, somewhat resembling a colossal Cyclopean waU, overgrown at the top with trees, so as to form an agreeable retreat in hot weather. Plea- sant walks lead from thence along the heights to the Old Castle of Liebenstein, the cradle of the family of Saxe Mein- ingen. It is founded on the rock, and parts of its foundation walls fill up the chasms in the limestone. Its towers command a delightful view over the forests of Thuringia, along the vale of the Werra, and as far as the Bhonge- birge. About 3 m. from Liebenstein is the Duke of Saxe Meiningen' s chateau Altenstein, very finely situated on the brow of a hiU, with a grassplat and 474 ROUTE 92. SCHMALKALDEN. MEININGEN". Sect. VII. fountain in front, and surrounded by a beautiful park. A crucifix is planted on a projecting rock, marking, accord- ing to tradition, the spot from which St. Boniface, the apostle of Germany, preached Christianity to the pagan in- habitants of the country. -^ an hour's walk from the castle, in the midst of the forest, but not far from the road, stood until 1841, when it was blown down, " Luther's Buche" (Luther's Beech), so called from the tradition that it was beneath it that the bold Reformer, on his return from "Worms, after the Papal bull had been uttered against him, was surprised by a party of armed men in masks, who mounted him on their horses and carried him away a prisoner to the castle of "Wartburg. This sur- prise was concerted by his friend and patron the Elector Frederick the Wise of Saxony. It was a magnificent tree, 6 ft. in diameter, overtopping all the rest of the forest. At Glucksbrunn, a village half way between Liebenstein and Altenstein, is one of the most remarkable of the Ca- verns in which the limestone (dolomite) of this district abounds. [A good road leads from Liebenstein to Schmalkalden, about 10 m. distant. This ancient and unaltered town, of 5400 inhab., still preserves its double row of antique ramparts, and its fosse. Its houses are mostly built of wood, with timber framework, and, like those of Chester and Shrewsbury, have a highly picturesque character. Most of its inhabitants are smiths, and follow their trade in shops on the ground floor. In the market-place stand the Gothic Church and the two chief Inns, Adler and Krone ; the latter comfortable : in it the famous Protestant League of Schmalkalden was signed, 1531. In the Sannersche Haus, the articles of the League were drawn up by Luther, Me- lancthon, Agricola, and other divines. That Confederation was of the highest consequence to the cause of the Refor- mation, and proved so discouraging to its opponents that no one dared mention Schmalkalden in the presence of the Empr. Charles V. On a height above the town rises the old Electoral castle, Wilhclmsburg. The valley in which Schmalkalden stands may be regarded as one great smithy; its inhabitants are chiefly workmen in metal, cutlers, makers of gimlets, &c. The iron ore is supplied from numerous mines in the vicinity. Eelow the town are extensive salt-works.] Eisenach to Coburg continued. The road from Gumpelstadt descends into the pretty valley of the Werra, which divides 2 of the boldest mountain ridges in central Germany — the Thiiringerwald and the Hohe Rhon. The land is fer- tile, and much tobacco is cultivated. 2^ Barchfeld, on the rt. bank of the Werra. 2 Schwallungen. rt. On a height above the Werra stands the modern ducal castle, Schloss Landsberg, ornamented with frescoes and glass paintings by Munich artists, in good taste. It commands beautiful views. 2 Meiningen (Inns : Sachsischer Hof ; Hirsch), a town of 6000 inhab., built in the form of a harp, on the rt. bank of the Werra, encircled by wooded hills. It is the capital of the Duchy of Saxe Meiningen, and residence of the Duke, the brother of the late Queen Dowager of England. The principal building is the Palace, containing various collec- tions of art and natmal history. There are an agreeable Park and gardens at- tached to it, and within these a modern Gothic Chapel with painted glass from Munich. The Jews form an important quota of the commivnity, and have re- cently built a handsome new quarter. The Church is ancient, but defaced by pews and galleries. Behind the altar are some curious monuments of knights, and in the sacristy some specimens of church plate, vestments, &c. [A road strikes off from Meiningen to Kissingen, by MeUrichstadt (2^G. m.), through part of the forest, to Neustadt (2 G. m.), an old walled town on the Franconian Saal, overhung by the in- teresting and extensive remains of the castle of Salzburg. Here is a neat clean Inn. Munnerstadt (1 G. m.) to Ivissin- gen (1-i G. m.). See Handbook S. Germany.] 2-^ Themar. Inn, Post. 1§ Hildburghauseu. Inns ; Saehsis- Saxony. ROUTE 92. — COBURG. 475 6h.es Haus, fair ; Englisch.es Haus. The Palace was, down to 1826, the residence of the Dukes of Saxe Hildburghausen, until the extinction of the line of Gotha, when they removed to Altenburg, and Hildburghausen was united to Meinin- gen. The town contains about 4000 inhab., many Jews. It is a lifeless place. The older quarter is of consi- derable antiquity. [7 m. W. is Romhild, in whose Church are remarkable monuments of the Counts of Henneberg, cast in bronze in 1520, by Peter Vischer and his sons.] 1^ Eodach. 2^ Coburg. Inns : Griiner Eaum (Poste), dirty ; Schwan, no better. This is one of the residence towns of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, the other being Gotha. Pop. about 10,000. It is remarkable for its clean and opu- lent-looking houses. In the market- place are some picturesque old houses. The Palace called Ehrenburg, the town residence of the Duke, built 1549, is a Gothic edifice, forming 3 sides of a quadrangle, with a turreted entrance. It contains a collection of Engravings, which are not shown, and has some handsome apartments. There are some fine specimens of marqueterie in the doors, and Coburg is to this day cele- brated for that manufacture. The Theatre belongs to the Duke, and is extremely well conducted. In the Arsenal (Zeughaus) there is some fine armour and arms of all ages, and some Turkish trophies, won by the Prince of Coburg, Austrian field-mar- shal. The ancient Castle of the Dukes of Coburg is situated on a commanding eminence, 523 ft. above the town. The views from it extend over the Thurin- gerwald as far as the Franconian Swit- zerland. It is partly converted into a Prison and a House of Correction ; but some of the chambers remain in their original condition. The rooms occupied by Luther, the bedstead he slept upon during his concealment here, and the pulpit from which he preached in the curious old Chapel, are shown. The " horn room" is panelled with oak in- laid with woods of different kinds, and enclosing mosaic pictures. Another room contains portraits of persons en- gaged in the Seven Years' War. There is much valuable armour here that de- serves to be arranged. The Castle was besieged by Wallenstein in the Thirty Years' War (1632). He made the town of Coburg his head-quarters for some time. Outside the walls may still be seen the remains of the chains to which the limbs of a traitor, who at- tempted to betray the place, were hung in full view of the besieging army. Wallenstein was at length compelled to raise the siege. Among the many country-houses be- longing to the Duke, the hunting-seats of Rosenau and Kallenberg most deserve notice for the elegant style in which they are fitted up, and the beauty of their situation. The parks and forests around them abound in game of every description. At Eosenau, 4 m. from Coburg, Prince Albert was born, and here Queen Victoria was lodged 11 days in 18i5. It is an old manor-house sur- rounded by trees. An avenue 2 m. long- leads to it. Postvc'dgen run between Coburg and the Lichtenfels Stat, on the Hof and Nuremberg railway (9 m.), several times a day, each way, in If hr., in connec- tion with the trains. The road on leaving Coburg descends the valley of the Itz, on its 1. bank, as far as Unter Sieman, which is nearly half way, and then crosses the hills into the valley of the Main. Handbook for S. Ger- many, Ete. 172. EOTJTE 93. GOTT1NGEN TO GOTHA, COBURG, AND BAMBERG. 32 Germ. m. =151 Eng. m., a mac- adamised road. About a mile from Heiligenstadt the Prussian frontier is crossed, and travellers are subjected to rather a strict search. 3| Heiligenstadt. — Inns : Preus- sischer Hof; Deutsches Haus. (See Ete. 67, p. 369.) This was formerly capital of the district called Eichsfeld. 2 Dingelstadt. 2± Miihlhausen (Inns : Schwan ; Konig von Preussen), an ancient walled town of 12,000 inhab., plea- 476 ROUTE 93. GOTTINGEN TO GOTHA, ETC. Sect. VII. santly situated in the midst of a very fertile country on the Unstrut. It was anciently a free city of the empire. The Hauptkirche in the Oherstadt is the finest church. Miinzer, the fanatic preacher, who excited the Thuringian peasants to revolt in 1524-25, made Miihlhausen his head-quarters, and col- lected around him a misguided host of 30,000 men, expelling the legitimate magistrates. His undisciplined bands, however, were soon dispersed in the battle of Frankenhausen ; he himself was brought hither a prisoner, and, after being tortured, was publicly executed. In his mad harangues he equally abused Luther and the Pope. 2| Langensalza {Inns: Mohr; Sonne), an industrious manufacturing town, with a pop. of 7000. About 2 m. out of the town is a saline sulphureous spring of some re- putation, supplying Baths, much re- sorted to in summer. 2£ Gotha.— In Rte. 86. 2 Ohrdruf [Inn, Anker — Post), a considerable town of the Thuringer- wald, containing 3500 inhab. The road now begins to ascend the highest ridge of the Thuringian mountains, by easy traverses, admirably constructed. 2 Oberhoff a hamlet of 46 wooden houses occupied by wood-cutters, with post-house and Inn, close to the Duke's Hunting Lodge. " The forest here may almost be called primaeval ; the pines often attain the height of 280 ft. It yields a yearly revenue of 100,000^. in building-timber alone. Game of every description abounds ; the red deer are of an enormous size ; and that elsewhere rare bird the bustard occurs here in great numbers. Between 700 and 800 stags are killed in a year ; and 20 or 30 of these noble animals may be seen from the road in passing in the evening. The Duke is allowed to have the finest chasse in Germany." — W. At the little town of Zella a road strikes off on the rt. by Benhausen (2 G. m.) to Meiningen (2£ G. m.). See Rte. 92. Soon after leaving Oberhoff the road attains its highest elevation. The view here is truly magnificent, over a great extent of this noble forest, the dark abyss of its valleys, and its mountains clad with pines, except their often craggy summits. From this point we descend to 2 Suhl {Inns: Deutsches Haus, best;- Krone), the principal town of the Prus- sian county of Henneberg, prettily situated in the valley of the Lauter, at the base oftheDomberg, a cliff of which, the Ottilienstein, a grand rock of por- phyry, appears to overhang the town, and commands a fine view. Pop. 7118, chiefly weavers of linen or woollen, or gunsmiths. Suhl has long been cele- brated for its fire-arms, and for centuries was the only manufactory of them in Germany. 2 Schleusingen. — Inn. Griiner Baum. Rte. 94 b. If Hildburghausen. If Rodach. >In Rte. 92. 2i COBURG. J This road is important as a line of communication between ~N. and S. Germany ; and there is much traffic of merchandise upon it. It enters the territory of Bavaria about half way between Coburg and 2 Lichtenfels {Inns : Krone, dear and dirty ; Kreutz), a town of 2000 inhab., on the Main, carrying on some trade in timber floated down the river. It is a Stat, on the Railroad from Leipzig to Nuremburg, by Bamberg. It runs for some distance on the 1. bank of the Main, near Staffelstein, a village pos- sessing a celebrated pilgrimage Church of the Vierzehn Heiligen, under the Staffelberg, a remarkable table hill, which hems in the river on the 1., while on the rt. rises a height, crowned by the suppressed convent of Banz, now residence of Prince Max, brother of the King of Bavaria. The Main, on issuing from this opening in the hills, flows past the small town of Zapfendorf, to Bamberg Stat. — in Handbook South Germany. ROUTE 94. LEIPZIG TO COBURG, BY JENA, RUDOL- STADT, AND SONNEBERG. 25f Germ. m. _ 120| Eug. m. Eil- wagen daily. 6f Naumburg, in Rte. 86. 2 Kambwrg, on the Saale. It was Saxony. ROUTE 94. — LEIPZIG TO COBURG. 477 through the defile in the rear of the castle of Dornhurg that the French marched to outflank the Prussians at the battle of Jena, 1806. Bad road. 1-5 Jena, in Ete. 94 a. The road continues to follow the pretty valley of the Saale ascending it along the 1. bank of that river. 2 Kahla (Inns : Stern ; Lowe), a town of 1200 inhab. On the opposite bank of the Saale stands the castle of Leuchtenburg, now a prison. The next object worth mentioning is the ruined castle Orlamilnde, on a hill beneath which the road passes. 3 Budolstadt (Inns : Lowe ; Adler ; Bitter), the chief town of the princi- pality of Schwarzburg - Budolstadt. Pop. 4000. On the summit of an eminence nearly 200 ft. above the river stands the residence of the prince, the Castle of Heideksburg, containing some pictures and a library. The Ludwigsburg in the town contains a cabinet of natural history, rich in shells. Opposite Volks- stadt a bust of Schiller has been set up to commemorate the poet's residence here in 1788. At Schwarza (Inn, Bremer Hof.), 3 m. above Budolstadt, the river Schwarza joins the Saale. 5 m. from Budolstadt, above the small town of Blankenburg (Inn, Schwazburger Hof or Chrysopras, ^ m. out of the town, is best), rise the picturesque ruins of the castle of Greif- enstein, birthplace of the unfortunate Empr. Giinther of Schwarzburg. 5 m. farther up this winding valley, one of the most beautiful in Thuringia, on the summit of a bold precipitous rock, stands the Castle of Schwarzburg. The greater part of the building is modern, erected after a conflagration, 1726. It presents little worth seeing except the Kaiser Saal, a relic still preserved of the old castle. It contains portraits of Boman emperors, from Julius Caesar to Charles IV., miserable daubs, and some ancient armour, including a suit attri- buted to the Empr. Giinther. Inn, Weisser Hirsch, near Schwarzburg. Travellers should ascend the Tripstein, lg m. from the castle, for the sake of the unrivalled view. There is a cross road from Blankenburg to the interest- ing ruins of the Abbey of Paidinzelle, 9 m. distant. It was founded, 1105, by Pauline, daughter of the cupbearer of the Empr. Henry IV. It is finely situated in the depths of a forest. The church is a very interesting monument of the plain Byzantine or Eomanesque style ; date, the close of the 11th cent. ; the E. end is gone. Near the abbey are the monks' fish-ponds, and a good Inn. 1 Saalfeld. — Inns : Goldener Anker, one of the oldest inns in Germany ; the Empr. Charles V. put up here, along with his prisoner the Elector John Frederick, June 27, 1547 ; Bau- tenkranz in the suburb. Saalfeld is a very ancient walled town, in the midst of the Thuringian forest, and contains 4800 inhab. The Rathhaus in the market-place is a vene- rable Gothic edifice. The Gothic Ch. of St. John was built 1212, out of funcfs produced by the neighbouring gold- mines of Beichmannsdorf ; the painted glass, and a colossal wooden statue of St. John in the interior, deserve men- tion. Near the town wall, at the side of the Saale, are the ruins of the Sor- benburg, a fort dating from the 8th cent., built, according to tradition, to defend the frontier from inroads of the Slavonic barbarians, the Sorbic-Vends. The old Ducal Castle, also within the town, is now the Mint. In the suburb outside the waUs is the more modern Chateau or Palace of the Dukes of the extinct line of Saxe- Saalfeld, with fine gardens attached to it. The road now quits the banks of the Saale, and begins to ascend the central ridge of the Thiiringerwald. The battle of Jena, so fatal to Prussia, began near Saalfeld. A cast-iron monument has been erected to Prince Lewis of Prussia on the spot where he fell. 2^ Grafenthal {Inns : Post ; Weisses Boss). Near this you have a fine view of Wespenstein, an old castle of the Pappenheims, in ruins. 3-^ Sonneberg. This little town of 3200 inhab. is chiefly remarkable for the peculiar manufacture of toys, dolls, boxes of various kinds, including pill- boxes, boot-jacks, chess-boards, and the endless variety of articles for the amuse- ment of children which fill the toy- 478 ROUTE 9ia. WEIMAR TO CARLSBAD. Sect. VII. shops of every quarter of the globe, and are commonly called Butch toys. There are several manufactories of papier mache, to make dolls' heads, and of pipe-heads; and one or two mills for grinding boys' marbles. Hones for sharpening knives are prepared here out of a species of slate ; and there is also a quarry producing slate-pencils in the neighbourhood. Altogether the trade in toys is supposed to produce 400,000 fl. yearly. Here is a pretty mo- dern Gothic Church built from. Heideloff's -designs ; the vaulted roof is of wood. 2 Neustadt. — Inn, Halbe Mond. l£ Coburg. (In Rte. 92.) ROUTE 94 a. WEIMAR TO CARLSBAD BY JENA, m ALTENBURG, GERA. Posting, 1st day to Altenburg, 68 Eng. m. in 11 h. ; 2nd day to Carlsbad, 76| Eng. m., in 13± h. This is a good post-road through beautiful and richly cultivated country, and may afford a variation of the journey to those acquainted with the usual route by Leipzig. The first part of the road traverses some singularly bare-looking ravines, one of which leads down into the broad valley in which stands 1^ Jena {Inn, Sonne), a dull, dingy, antiquated town, in a hollow sur- rounded by naked hills, having nothing- worth notice but its University, founded 1550, and numbering at present about 500 students. " Groups of them, in falling collars not particularly clean, and flowing hair not remarkably glossy, may be seen swaggering about with foils, masks, and cudgels." — L. R. G. The University Museum is valuable to students. The Garden of the Observa- tory was Schiller's favourite resort while Professor of History, between 1789 and 1799, and he composed in it some of his poems. " The road, somewhat narrow and very serpentine, but not bad, takes its course among clear streams and happy-looking villages, 'and afterwards" through forests of pine, to 3 Kloster Launitz, a clean village inn. There is a new and better road from Jena to 3 Eisenberg. 2-J Gera {Inn, Reussischer Hof, very good), a picturesque, clean, and thriving modern town, of 11,000 inhab., on the Elster, belonging to the sovereign princes of Reuss-Schleitz and Ebers- dorf. The Castle of the Prince ofR. Ebers- dorf, backed by hanging woods, rises over against the town, and adds much to its picturesque appearance. Roneberg, a small modern town and watering-place, is passed, and the road traverses a country not particularly in- teresting, abounding in mines. 1-g- Schmollen. Smelting-house. 2 Altenburg. — Inn, Stadt Gotha; good. (See p. 471.) A railroad rims hence to Leipzig, and to Zwickau (Rte. 91). Beyond this the road enters the Erzgebirge. 3 Schneeberg (Rte. 91a). 3 Wildenthal {Inn, Post), a neat vil- lage at the foot of the Auersberg, where a good deal of lace is made and sold. The Bohemian (Austrian) Custom- house and Passport-office (§ 86) is at Hirschenstand. After following for a long way a wooded gorge, you at length emerge from the hills a little beyond 2^ ISTeudeck {Inn, Stadtischer Gast- hof). Here you find yourself in the undulating valley of the Eger. 2^ Carlsbad {Inn^rinz vonPreussen), in Handbook South Germany. There is a road from Altenburg to Dresden \>y Rochlitz, 3-^. "Waldheim, 2|. Nossen, 3. Wilsdruff, 2|. Dres- den, 2|. Or by way of Freiberg to Penig, 2^. Chemnitz, 3 ; and thence as in Ete. 90. ROUTE 94 b. ERF CRT TO COBURG. 15 Germ m. = 69 Eng. m. A new road, but not furnished with post-horses, connects Erfurt with Schleusingen on the road from Gotha to Coburg. The road is very pretty from Erfurt to 2^ Amstadt. — Inns : Die Hemic ; Saxony. ROUTE 946. — ERFURT TO COBURG. 479 Der Greif. 5300 inhab. The Lieb- frauenkirche, a specimen of German architecture of the 12th and 13th cent., displays peculiar sculpture on its ex- terior, I and some interesting monu- ments within. The Schloss, formerly the residence of the Schwarzburg fa- mily, descended, on the failure of that line, to the Sondershausen family. Of the old Schloss there only remains a tower, and some walls of 1554. [A new road (4f Germ. m. in length) has been opened between Arnstadt and Rudolstadt through a 'beautiful coun- try.] After leaving Arnstadt the road runs through a narrow valley amidst beechwood, and then rises, passing among fields, to 2^ Ilmenau (Inn, Lowe). This town of 2700 inhab. belongs to Weimar. Here are mines of manganese and iron. Near it is Elgersburg, romantically situated, and an establishment for the cold-water cure. The road after leaving Ilmenau ascends for 2 m. to a height of 2500 ft., and then descends with many windings through a forest be- longing to the King of Prussia to 4 Schleusingen (Inn, Griiner Baum, 3000 inhab.), a town formerly belong- ing to the Counts of Henneberg, now to Prussia. The old castle of Bertholds- burg, prettily situated on a hill, has been repaired, by the King of Prussia. In a chapel built 1723, adjoining the Stadtkirche, are the tombs of the old Counts of Henneberg ; and in the neighbourhood a suppressed Prsemon- strant Abbey, an interesting monument of German architecture of the 12 th cent. If Hildburghausen. If Rodach. 2^ Coburg. Rte. 92. 480 54. MONEY. Sect. VIII. SECTION VIII. NASSAU. — FRANKFURT. — HESSE - DARMSTADT. — RHENISH BAVARIA. — BADEN. — AND THE RHINE FROM MAYENCE TO STRASBURG. preliminary information. — 54. Money. — 55. Posting. ROUTE PAGE 95. The Brunnen of Nassau. Coblenz to Frankfurt on the Main, by Ems, Schwalbach, Schlangeribad, and Wiesbaden 482 Giessen to Coblenz, and Descent of the Lahn from Weilburg to Limburg and Ems The Taunus Mountains — Wiesbaden to Frankfurt by Eppstein, Konigstein, and Homburg Bingen to gelheim Railway. Frankfurt 100. Vale of the Nahe— Bingen to Kreuznach and Saarbriick . Saarbriick to Treves . Mayence to Metz The Rhine (E.), Mayence to Worms, Mannheim, Spires, and Strasburg. — Rail. . 511 96. 97. 98. 99. 100a 101. 102. Mayence by In- Mayence to 501 503 506 506 507 510 510 ROUTE PAGE 103. Mannheim to Treves . . 520 104. Mannheim to Zweibrticken by Neustadt, Landau, and Annweiler .... 520 105. Frankfurt to Basle by Darm- stadt, the Bergstrasse, and Odenwald, Heidelberg, Carls- ruhe, and Freiburg Rail- way .... 523 106. Branch Railway to Baden. Baden .... 541 107. To Strasburg, frfta the Baden- Railway .... 547 108. Offenburgto Schaffhausen and Constance by the Kinzig Thai and Donaueschingen . 551 109. Freiburg to Schaffhausen by the Hollenthal . . 555 110. Heidelberg to Wiirzburg by Mosbach , . . .556 § 54. MONEY. In Nassau, Baden, Darmstadt, Frankfurt, &c, accounts are kept in Florins or Gulden. 1 Florin (= Is. 8a*.), contains 60 kreutzers. 3 kr. = la*. Gold Coins [rare). Caroline (or French Louis d'Or) Ducat .... Fl. kr. = 11 6 to 12. = 5 24 to 36. The States of Southern and Western Germany, including Bavaria, Wurteni- berg, Baden, Hesse, and Frankfurt, have recently combined to issue a uniform coinage. (See § 32.) Nassau. 55. POSTING. 481 New Silcer Coinage. Vereins Thaler = 3 florins 30 kr. = 2 Prussian dollars. kr. Florin . . = 60 = Is. M. = 2 Fr. francs 15 cents. i Florin . . = 30 = lOd. a Florin . . = 15 = 5d. Pieces of 6 kr., 3 kr. or groschen, and 1 kr. Old Silver Coins. Crown, Kronthaler, or Brabant Fl. kr. Thaler . . . , — 2 42 Pieces of two and one florin . Zwanziger . . , . = 24 (N.B. 2^ zwanzigers make 1 florin.) ^ Zwanziger . . . . = 12 = 0s. 4d. i Zwanziger . . . . = 6 = 0s. 2d. Formerly the florin was an imaginary coin, and did not exist as a piece of money. The name zwanziger properly applies to Austria alone, where this coin goes for 20 kreutzers, and bears upon it the figure 20, the ^ zwanziger or zehner passes for 10, and the £ for 5 kreutzers ; while in Bavaria and Wiirtemberg the same coins pass respectively for 24, 12, and 6 kr. Value of foreign coins in florins and kreutzers : — ■ = 4s. l^d. = 3s. 4d. and Is. Sd. 0s. Sd. French Louis d'or. Napoleon English Sovereign Dutch 10-guilder piece ■^ Kron or Brabant Thaler Conventions Thaler Prussian Frederic d'or Thaler . French 5 -franc piece 1 -franc Fl. 11 9 11 9 1 2 9 1 2 kr. 6 to 12 30 to 20 45 to 36 54 to 10 fl, 20 24 48 45 20 28 Brabant dollars (originally struck by the Emperor of Austria in the Low Countries) are a very common coin, current without loss throughout S. Ger- many. The table (A) at the beginning of this volume for reducing them into norms and kreutzers may be found useful. § 55. POSTING. Each Horse. Fl. kr. 2 Postilion. 3 4 horses. 30 15 30 40 kr. 50 kr. 40 50 45 55 lfl. 1 1 5kr. Tariff per post of 2 Germ. m. Frankfurt- A . -M. Nassau Darmstadt The postmaster in Mayence is authorised to charge 52^ kr. for each horse per post. l Baden . . 1 30 36 45 1 10 The charges for horses vary from time to time with the price of forage. The charge for barriers ceases on entering this duchy. The usual rate of travelling is a post in \\ to l£ h. when the road is not very hilly. The distances to all the adjoining post stations are hung up in front of every post- house. J x [N. G.] Y 482 ROUTE 95. — THE BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. EMS. Sect. VIII. Travellers usually pay the postilion 1 fl. for 2 horses per post, which is quite enough. On some roads 1 fl. 12 kr. (3 zwanzigers) is given, which is high pay. N.B. An extra charge of 30 kr. per post is made hy the postmaster when a postboy, driving only 2 horses, is obliged to ride, and cannot sit on the box of the carriage. A light open carriage, holding 4 without heavy baggage, may be drawn by 2 horses : a heavy trunk counts as one person. A postchaise or caleche costs from 50 kr. to 1 fl. a post. The "Wagenmeister, when entitled to be paid separately, usually receives 1 2 kr., and 12 more when he greases the wheels. Charges at Inns: — Rooms on 1st floor, 1 fl. to 1 fl. 12 kr. ; 2nd or 3rd floor, 36 kr. ; table-d'hote, 48 kr. to 1 fl. 12 kr. ; \ bottle of wine, 18 kr. ; breakfast (coffee or tea, with bread and butter), 20 kr. Mr. George Bernard's Illustrations of the Rhine and Brunnen of Nassau contain the cleverest and most exact representations of the scenes and persons occurring in that interesting district which the writer of this is acquainted with. KOUTES. ROUTE 95. THE BATHS AND BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. COBLENZ TO FRANKFURT - ON - THE MAIN, BY EMS, SCHWALBACH, SCHLAN- GENBAD, AND WIESBADEN. 14 Germ. m. = 64 Eng. m. Schnellpost, as far as "Wiesbaden (whence a railroad runs to Frankfurt), every day, in 8 hrs. To Ems, omnibus 4 or 5 times a-day in the season. The new road from Coblenz to Ems avoids the high hills, laboriously sur- mounted by the old road, and follows the rt. bank of the Rhine, passing orchards and vineyards, to Nieder- Lahnstein (p. 275), at the mouth of the Lahn ; and thence up its rt. bank through the village of Nievern, Ahl, and the iron- works of Hohenrain. The distance is nearly 12 m., a most agree- able drive of 2 hrs. through varied and beautiful scenery. There is a footpath over the hills by Arxheim and Fachbach, a walk of 2 hrs. — difficult to find without a guide. 2 Ems. — Inns and lodging - houses : The Alte Kurhaus, a huge rambling chateau, formerly the residence of the Duke, consisting of several compart- ments, called the oberer and unterer Fliigelbau, the Mittelbau, and the Lahnbau, contains nearly 300 cham- bers, which are let, according to their . size and situation, at from 48 kr. to 8 fl. a day. A good room may be had for 1 fl. 30 kr. : the price of every room is painted on the door. There is a restaurateur attached to the house, and a daily table-d'hote at 1, which, however, is not so good as that at some other inns. Those who intend to take up their lodgings in the Bath-house apply on their arrival to the Bad-, or Hans - meister, a species of steward, who has the charge of the establish- ment, and of the letting of the rooms, and who gives every information re- specting vacancies and prices. The rent of the rooms returns a consider- able annual revenue to the Duke of Nassau. — H. d' Angleterre, a very com- fortable house for families, but dear ; table-d'hote at 1, 54 kr. ; at 3, 1 fl. 30 kr. H. de Russie ; good. Darmstadter Hof (Post). — Fiirstenhof. — Baieris- cher Hof, in the Obere Allee, remote from the bustle, and recommended as a lodging-house. — If. T. There is a table-d'hote at 1 in all the hotels, in the Kurhaus and Kursaal, and also one at 4 p.m. at the Kursaal and H. d' Angleterre and de Russie, chiefly for the English, and more expensive in consequence. — Britannia, formerly Mainzer Haus, on the 1. bank of the Lahn, a quiet lodging - house. — Die Vicr Thiirme (Four Towers) ; same landlord as H. d' Angleterre. — Die Yier Jahrszeiten — Panorama, new Nassau. ROUTE 95. — EMS. KURSAAL. SPRINGS. 483 and good, on the S. side of the river, and therefore preferahle in hot weather. The Burg Nassau, next door to the H. d'Angleterre, is recommended as a lodging-house. The houses on the 1. bank of the Lahn are cheaper and quieter than those on the rt. The watering-place (§ 41) Ems is very prettily situated on the rt. hank of the Lahn, hemmed in between it and the cliffs of the B'aderlei, which recede from the water's edge only far enough to allow room for a row of houses. It is neither town nor village, but a collection of lodging-houses, with the Kurhaus in the midst. In front of them runs the high road, and between it and the river a long narrow strip of garden, forming a sort of ter- race by the river-side, and serving as a promenade for the guests. A band of Bohemian musicians, who repair hither every year, plays here during the sea- son from 7 to 8-3 A.M., and from 6 to 8 p.m., to the tune of whose instruments the guests digest their potations of spa- water. Six o'clock in the afternoon is the hour at which Ems appears in full glory : all the •world is then abroad, the promenade is crowded with visitors of all nations, and some of the highest rank, in the gayest costume. Those who are ambitious to extend their walks beyond this, unless they confine them- selves to the borders of the beautiful Lahn, must begin immediately to as- cend, so near at hand are the hills. Close to the little bridge of boats, and along both sides of the river, squadrons of donkeys are posted with their drivers, ever on the alert for employers. By their assistance every visitor, male or female, however feeble and lazy, has the means of scaling the wooded and vine-clad heights, and of exploring the really beautiful scenery with which the neighbourhood abounds. Every donkey is numbered ; and on fine afternoons the asses of reputation, stiength, and beauty, being in great request, are usually engaged before- hand, and quickly marched off the field. Many persons, therefore, retain a par- ticular number, which they know to be good, for the period of their stay at the baths. The hire of a donkey is 40 kr. an hour ; but it is better to engage the animal for the excursion according to the terms of a printed tariff hung up in the lower hall of the Alte Kurhaus, which fixes the charges for all the usual excursions around Ems, whether made on horses or asses, or in carriages. Ems is hot in summer, from being so shut in with hills ; but the woods around afford shade, and in a quarter of an hour the tops of the hills may be scaled, whence the rambler may en- joy the purest breezes and the most expanded views over the Bheinland. The rich woods which cover the sides of the vale of the Lahn, and the ver- dant pastures which form its banks, give Ems a more pleasing aspect than Schwalbach, which is surrounded by naked round -backed hills, with few trees upon them. Ems, it is true, cannot compete with Wiesbaden in gaiety, in the splendour of its assembly- rooms, and the extent of its public walks ; but the very splendid New Kursaal, built by the Grand Duke, at the side of the Lahn, contains a cafe ; gambling-rooms, provided with hazard- tables, open from 11 to 1, and 3 to 10 ; and a ball-room, supported on marble columns, in which weekly balls are given. It is open at all times, gratui- tously to strangers, and 75,000 fl. are lost here annually by play / The interior, though gorgeous, is in very bad taste. Immediately under the Old Kiu> haus rise 2 of the principal Springs, the waters of which are used for drink- ing, and likewise supply the baths. The ground'floor of the building is a large vaulted gloomy hall, which serves at the same time as pump-room and place of promenade for the guests in wet weather. The chief source is the Kesselbrunnen (116° Fahr.),and within a space railed off around it stand young girls (Brunnen Madchen) to distribute the water to the drinkers, giving to each one his or her own peculiar glass. During the season both sides are occu- pied by itinerant shopkeepers from all parts of the Continent, who here display their wares in a sort of bazaar. There are hardly any other shops in the place. In the lower story of this building are also situated the Batlis — prices : Y 2 484 ROUTE 95. — EMS. BATHS. EXCURSIONS. Sect. VIII. 18 kr. for the common (Rondel), 36 kr., 1 fl., to 1 fl. 30 kr. for the better class. Douche Baths (i. e. a stream of water descending from a height upon some part of the body), 48 kr. The attend- ants are entitled by the tariff to 6 kr. trinkgeld for each bath, but this sum is now added on to the price of the bath. The Douchemeister gets 12 kr. Tickets for a certain number of baths are pur- chased beforehand from the Badmeister, who fixes the hour for taking them, which should be punctually kept, or the bather may lose his turn. (H. T.) The attendants are not permitted to receive the money for the bath, nor to allow any one to bathe without a ticket. There are other baths in the Steinerne Haus and Vier Thiirme. The waters of Ems were known as .early as the time of the Romans, who called the place Embasis. They are warm, and are furnished by 2 springs, having respectively a temperature of 23° and 37° Reaumur. They are agreeable to the palate and easy of digestion. The springs rise out of the grauwacke rock, which forms the sub- stratum of the surrounding hill. There are many other springs here besides those which supply the baths ; some on the 1. bank of the Lahn, and others rising up in the middle of the Lahn itself, which at these places is used as a horse^bath. Many jets of gas also emanate out of the bed of the stream ; and one of them is so copious in car- bonic vapours as to destroy life in animals held over it, in the same manner as the famous Grotto del Cane in Italy. The waters are taken in the morning before breakfast, and after dinner. From 3 to 6 goblets in the early part of the day, and 1 or 2 in the afternoon, are the usual allowance.. Nearly everybody, high or low, dines here at the table-d'hote ; the dinner hour is 1 o'clock; after which the com- pany adjourn and take coffee on the walks, listening to the music, or amus- ing themselves in walking or riding. There is music for 1 h. morning and evening, the time varies according to the season. Ems seems essentially a ladies' watering-place : it is much frequented by the fair sex, and its waters are con- sidered peculiarly efficacious In the complaints of females. It is on the whole a quiet place ; little or no raking goes on here ; but dear. The public gaming-tables are not much frequented. Another of the amusements which this place affords is the sport of roe- buck-shooting in the Duke's preserves; it is easy to purchase a permission from parties who rent a portion of them. The society at Ems is usually consi- dered more select than that at Schwal- bach, Wiesbaden, or even Baden-Baden. The season begins in May, and is gene- rally over by the middle of September. There were 4500 visitors here in 1845, while 17 years before there were but 1560. Dr. Vogler is highly spoken of by those whom he has attended. Dr. Soest, a physician of considerable prac- tice at Coblenz, who speaks English, comes over to Ems 2 days in every week to see patients. (§ 41.) The English Ch. Service is performed on Sunday mornings at the Lutheran Ch. The walks over and among the hills near Ems, for instance, up the Ba- derlei, to the Forsthaus, to the Linden- bach Valley, by the silver- smelting furnace, to the ruined castle of Sporken- burg, to Balduinstein, and in general up and down the Lahn, are very agreeable, and afford many unrivalled prospects. For short walks, you may choose the Marien- Weg, on the further side of the Lahn, or the Ilenrietten- Weg, and Mooshut, overlooking Ems, whence there is a fine view. Kemmenau is a fine point of view at the top of the mountain behind Ems. The Roman rampart called Pfahlgraben (described at p. 493) passes along the crest of the hills aboveKemmenau, and, descending into the valley of the Lahn, crosses that river near Ems, and pro- ceeds towards Heinrichshof. Braubach, and the Castle of Marks- burg, on the Rhine, distant about 7 m., will form a pleasant day's excursion. (See p. 275.) The carriage-road runs past the Forsthaus ; a footpath at the back of Heinrichsbad leads through the wood to Becheln, The return to Ems Nassau. ROUTE 95. — NASSAU. SCHWALBACH. 485 may be varied by descending the Bhine to Lahnstein by a boat, or along the rt. bank, and ascending the valley by the side of the Lahn to Ems. A visit to the castles of Nassau and Stein, 6 m. higher up the Lahn valley, on the high road to Frankfurt, is another particularly agreeable excur- sion. These ruins serve as the rendez- vous of many a picnic party. The Convent of Arnstein, and the Chapel of Winden, both commanding beautiful views, and only 3 m. above Nassau, may be visited on the same day from Ems. (See Ete. 96.) After leaving Ems on the way to Nassau and Schwalbach, the road passes the old walled town of Dausenau, behind which runs a footpath leading up the ravine and over the hills to Ems, descending at the back of the Kurhaus, commanding fine views. The high road follows the windings of the Lahn through a beautiful valley as far as Nassau. — Inn : Krone. ' 5 m. from Ems. A chain bridge has been erected here over the Lahn, on the 1. bank of which rises the old and picturesque Castle of Nassau, the cradle (Stamm- schloss) of the families of Nassau and Orange. It was built by a Count of Laurenburg in 1101. In the 13th cent. the family divided into 2 branches, from the elder of which springs the present Duke of Nassau, while the younger is represented by the King of Holland. The castle stands on the summit of a conical rock, and a little lower down is the less extensive ruin of the Castle of Stein, the baronial seat of another very ancient family, who have held for 500 years their estates and castle on the banks of the Lahn as a fief from the Emperor of Ger- many. The present owner, the Grafin von Giech, is still of the same race, and resides in the modern chateau situated in the valley hard by, which is also shown to strangers, and contains ancient armour, trophies of the war, and other curiosities. She is the daughter of the enlightened and patriotic Prussian minister, whom Napoleon contempt- uously designated "Un nomine Stein." He had the merit of introducing into the Prussian government those re- forms which have contributed largely to raise that country to its present eminence. The minister v. Stein, the last male of his family, is buried at the village of Frucht, 3 m. S/W. of Ems. Agreeable and easy paths have been cut through the woods leading to and around these 2 ruins. The views from them, and from the Gothic tower erected by the Baron von Stein on a command- ing point, are as pleasing as the ruins themselves are picturesque. Strangers are freely permitted to roam about and enjoy themselves in these grounds. In short, a day devoted to a visit to Nassau from Ems will assuredly not be con- sidered misspent. There is a very agreeable walk from Nassau to Ems up the valley of Diene- thal, and by Sulzbach, on the S. side of the Lahn. The beauties of the Lahn valley con- tinue upwards beyond Arnstein (3 m.) and Limburg (Ete. 96), along banks decorated with picturesque castles in ruins, and smiling industrious villages. Beyond Nassau our road ascends by a steep hill, and quits the valley of the Lahn. The view from the height, looking down upon it and its castles, is most beautiful ; but after that, adieu to picturesque scenes. The road passes, over a bleak tract of high land, very scantily peopled, the villages and habi- tations in general being snuggly nestled in the narrow and steep ravines which intersect in all directions this upper country. There is some fine wooded country near 2 Singhofen. 1^- Holzhausen. Schwalbach, from its peculiar situ- ation, sunk as it were between hills, is scarcely seen until it is entered. This little town, though not devoid of beauty in its position and environs, commonly does not strike the stranger with the full admiration he had anticipated from the perusal of the "Bubbles." Not that the author's descriptions are in- exact, or even exaggerated, but that it requires a turn of mind similar to his own to elicit that pleasure which he derived from the objects themselves, and which his readers enjoy from 486 ROUTE 95. — SCHWALBACH. SPRINGS. Sect. VIII. his attractive and quaint account of them. 2 Langen-Scliwalbach. — Inns : Allee Saal (H. du Promenade), largest and best situated, named from a shady avenue of trees close beside it; daily table-d'hote at 1 ; in the evening the rooms serve for dancing on Sundays, as well as for music — in fact, become the Assembly-rooms. Nassauer Hof, good and moderate ; table-d'hote at 1. H. de 1' Europe. H. au Due de Nassau, clean and good ; table-d'hote at 1 and 3 ; passing travellers are not readily received for less time than 14 days. Post. Lodging -houses : Pariser Hof, clean ; H. Eoyal, formerly Beiden Indien ; Englischer Hof, where the author of the "Bubbles" lodged. At the lodging- houses there are no tables-d'hote ; but visitors can be provided with breakfast and tea, and have their dinners sent in to them from one of the hotels. Schwalbach (in English, Swallows' - brook), though within a few years elevated to the dignity of a town (pop. 1800), has still the appearance of a long straggling village. All the most considerable buildings are inns or lodging-houses. It is said to have been known to the Romans, and has for nearly 3 cent, been one of the most frequented of German watering- places (§ 41) ; but until the appear- ance of the " Bubbles from the Brun- nen" our countrymen had passed through it year after year without taking any notice of it. The beneficial effects of its strengthening and re- freshing waters will secure to it in future an annual succession of visitors from our island. Already many thou- sand English have taken up their summer residence on the spot, each with the Bubble-blower for his guide ; and Spa, Aix-la-Chapelle, and other watering-places have been compara- tively deserted by them in conse- quence. In order to enter into the spirit of the Brunnen of Nassau, no visitor can dispense with the " Bubbles ;" he must take the book in his hand. Supposing every one to be furnished with it, or at least to have read it, travellers are referred to it for all general descrip- tions ; and the following short account pretends to nothing more than the filling up of one or two points of in- formation upon which the author of the " Bubbles " has not thought it worth while to dwell. Schwalbach has the advantage over Ems and Wiesbaden of being more free from bustle and formal restraint, which, with those in search of quiet and retire- ment, will gain for it the preference over these 2 watering-places. In the height of summer the heat is excessive, and is more severely felt from the want of shade, the hills around being bare of trees, and the plantations recently formed not having attained sufficient maturity to afford shelter from the sun. The season is usually over by the end of August ; it begins in June. The winter and spring are cold, and full 3 weeks later than at Wiesbaden and in the Bheingau. The town is appropriately called Long Schwalbach, from the arrange- ment of its houses in one extended line. It contains a Boman Catholic and 2 Protestant Churches, and a Synagogue for the Jews. Near the upper end of its long street are situated the principal Hotels, the Promenades, the Wells (Brunnen), and the Lath-house (Bad- haus). The three principal springs, which supply water for drinking as well as bathing, are — 1. The Weinbrunnen, so named from some fancied resemblance to wine in its taste ; and, 2. The Stahl- brunnen : both of these contain iron and carbonic acid gas in slightly va- rying proportions ; but the Weinbrun- nen is more largely impregnated with steel than the Stahl (steel) Brunnen. — 3. The Pauline, a spring -which has been more recently discovered, and is named after the Duchess of Nassau, containing less iron than the other two. The Pauline spring has been traced to its fountain head at the iipper end of the valley, where its water bursts out in greater quantity, and more bub- bling with gas. The Ladhaus is a handsome build- ing, supported by an open colonnade, which serves as a walk in wet weather, Nassau. ROUTE 95. — SCHWALBACH. EXCURSIONS. 487 and as a shelter for a great many itine- rant traders, who set up their stalls here in the season. There are scarcely any other shops in Schwalhach. Persons who intend to make use of the haths should know that they are much in request, and during the height of the season are occupied from 6 in the morning till 1 p. m. Every hour of the day is bespoken beforehand, and allotted to some one or other, whose name is entered in a book opposite to the hour. Those who are not punctual to their time run the risk of losing their turn. The baths on the upper story are filled from the Pauline, those on the lower from the Stahl and Wein- brunnen, the waters being previously heated artificially. The price of a single bath is 48 kr., and the bath servant, who supplies towels, receives 4 kr. The water in which the patient prepares to immerse himself is, to use the " old man's" words, " as thick as a horse- pond, and about the colour of mulli- gatawny soup." Garments immersed in it contract stains as deep as red ochre, and they who immerse their heads will find that " their pillow in the morning looks as if a rusty 18 lb. shell had been reposing on it." The qualities of the water, however, are bracing and strengthening in a high degree. The diurnal proceedings of the vi- sitors at the baths are nearly as follows : they rise as early as 6, and resort to the wells to drink their allotted po- tions, keeping themselves in constant motion backwards and forwards be- tween every glass. * The water appears to produce a desire for walking, and the walking is with difficulty carried on without the invigorating aid of the water. After 2 or 3 hrs. of this ex- ercise they have fairly earned their breakfasts. The business of the bath will occupy an hour o^ the forenoon ; and before dinner another course of water is usually prescribed. The dinner-bell for the table-d'hote sounds at 1, and the irksome ceremony is rarely over in less than an hour and a half : when it is concluded, the Ger- mans usually allow themselves a short time to ruminate, to drink their coffee, and to smoke their pipes. At this time of day the donkeys, the slaves of the visitors at the baths, whose lives are spent in carrying, are to be seen in long array, ready to be engaged. The charges for horses, asses, and carriages are fixed by tariff, according to the length of the excursions. Donkeys, inferior to those at Ems, 36 kr. the hour. At 6 o'clock the ceremony of drinking the waters begins again. In the evening the Allee Saal is lighted up, and music on most days of the week — gaming at all times — serve to amuse the visitors. On Sundays the English Service is performed in the upper Protestant ch. in the Lange Gasse, soon after 11 A. M. The steep round-backed hills which hem in the town of Schwalbach and its Brunnen are intersected in all di- rections with paths. From the summit of the heights a number of pleasing views are obtained. One of the most interesting is that from the little rustic wooden pavilion which stands on the top of the hill, by the side of the road leading from Schwalbach to Wies- baden. This agreeable " point de vue " is not much more than 20 min. walk from the Paiiline, and those who fear to face the hill on foot may make the ascent on the back of a don- key. About :§ an hour's walk from Schwal- bach is Adolphseck, a ruined castle, said to have been built by Count Adolph of Nassau, before he became Emperor, as a residence for a fair lady, his fa- vourite. The excursion, however, which sur- passes all others around Schwalbach, is that to the Castle of Hohenstein. The carriage-road leading to it is dusty and monotonous ; the better way is to follow the windings of the little stream called the Aar, on foot or upon donkeys, passing first under the castle of Adolph- seck, and then threading the valley up- wards for a distance of 6 m. Its great charm is the variety of scenes it un- folds, its changes at every turn, its openings and closings ; at times ex- panding into broad verdant meadows, then contracting to a narrow strait with 488 ROUTE 95. — SCHWALBACH. SCHLANGENBAD. Sect. VIII. overhanging masses of rock on both sides. At last the grand old castle of Hohenstein appears in sight, in a very romantic situation, perched on the sum- mit of a high black precipice, and forming a termination of the vista. This imposing feudal stronghold of the Counts . of Katzene]nbogen was taken and sacked in the Thirty Years' War, and is now totally dismantled, though some precautions have been taken to preserve it from further decay. A village composed of a few poor cottages crouches at the foot of the rock ; and a small Inn will furnish the traveller with a dish of trout or crawfish from the Wiedenbach brook, or a bottle of sour wine, if needed ; but it is well to take provisions with you. There are many other old castles among the valleys of the Taunus, each of which may be made the object of a day's excursion, particularly those of Katzenelnbogen (Cat's Elbow), built by the Counts of that name, who an- ciently possessed the country between the Ehine and the Lahn ; it is situated in a wild and solitary district, Burg Schwalbach, and Arteck. Pleasing excursions are, 1. to Frankfurt by JSTeuhof, Idstein, Esch, and Konig- stein (Ete. 97) ; 2. to Dietz and Limburg (Ete. 96), by Holzhausen ; 3. down the "Wisperthal to Lorch on the Ehine (Ete. 38, p. 280) ; this last must be performed in a carriage of the country. Nieder-Selters, the spring which pro- duces the far-famed Seltzer water, may be visited from Schwalbach, but it is a long day's journey, by cross-roads, which even in the best season are very rugged. The spring itself is situated on the high post-road leading from Limburg to Frankfurt, and it is of course most easily accessible in that direction. The admirable description of the author of the " Bubbles" will probably afford more gratification than even a visit to the spot. The road which he took led him past the Eisen- hammer, an immense hammer, lifted by a water-wheel, which forges iron by its fall (one of the lions generally visited by the water-drinkers of Schwal- bach), tnrough the villages of Neuhof and "Wurges, both of which are post- stations, where fresh horses may be had, to the spring of Selters, situated about ^ m. from the village of Sel- ters, which is also a post-station, and provided with a small inn called the Nassauer Hof. About a million and a half of bottles are exported annually, and the quantity is increasing. Instead of returning to Schwalbach by the same road which brought him, the traveller may make an agreeable variation by following the course of the Lahn by land, or descending that stream in a boat to Nassau or Ems. (See Ete. 96.) A capital macadamised road, but very hilly, leads from Schwalbach to Schlangenbad (about 4 m.), another Brunnen of Nassau (Znws, Hessischer Hof; Nassauer Hof), in a delightful though retired situation, almost buried amongst wooded hills. It is neither a town nor village, but consists of a group of lodging-houses. Two of these enormous buueungs, resembling cotton- mills in their size and number of win- dows, called the Old and New Badhaus, furnish accommodation for visitors. The price of each room, marked on the door, varies from 36 kr. to 3 or 4 fi. daily. Table-d'hote, at 1, costs 1 fl., and, for 1 fi. 45 kr., the same dinner is served in private. The Eauenthaler wine is good here. It is generally necessary to bespeak rooms by letter beforehand, from the Badmeister, an officer appointed by the Duke of Nassau, who has the charge of both houses. This place receives its name of Schlangenbad (Serpent's Bath) from the great number of snakes, quite harmless, which not only abound in the neighbourhood, but even haunt the springs themselves for the sake of the warmth yielded by the water. The old man who manages the baths will exhibit some of them. The Baths are situated in the ground floor of the Old and New Badhaus, and have a somewhat dark and gloomy air. The temperature of the water is only 80° Fahrenheit, so that it needs to be heated for bathing. The sequestered little valley of Nassau. ROUTE 95. — SCHLANGENBAP. BATHS. 489 Schlangenbad affords more complete retirement than any of the baths of Nassau. It is annually visited by about 800 guests, including many princes and persons of the highest dis- tinction from all parts of Germany and Russia, including frequently some members of the royal family of Prus- sia. " No part of the building is exclu- sively occupied by these royal guests ; but, paying for their room no more than the prices marked upon the doors, they ascend the same staircase, and walk along the same passages, with the hum- blest inmates of the place. The silence and apparent solitude which reigned in this new badhaus were to us always a subject of astonishment and admiration. The cell of the hermit can hardly be more peaceful." — Bubbles. u The baths of Schlangenbad are the most harmless and delicious luxuries of the sort I have ever enjoyed ; and I really quite looked forward to the morning for the pleasure with which I paid my addresses to this delightful element. The effect it produces on the skin is very singular : it is about as warm as milk, but infinitely softer : and after dipping the hand into it, if the thumb be rubbed against the fin- gers, it is said by many to resemble satin. Nevertheless, whatever may be its sensation, when the reader reflects that people not only come to these baths from Russia, but that the water in stone bottles, merely as a cosmetic, is sent to St. Petersburg and other dis- tant parts of Europe, he will admit that it must be soft indeed to have gained for itself such an extraordinary degree of celebrity ; for there is no town at Schlangenbad, not even a village : nothing, therefore, but the real or fan- cied charm of the water could attract people into a little sequestered valley, which, in every sense of the word, is out of sight of the civilised world ; and yet I must say that I never remem- ber to have existed in a place which possessed such fascinating beauties ; be- sides which (to say nothing of breathing pure dry air), it is no small pleasure to live in a skin which puts all people in good humour — at least with themselves. But besides the cosmetic charms of this water it is declared to possess virtues of more substantial value : it is said to tranquillize the nerves, to soothe all in- flammation ; and from this latter pro- perty the cures of consumption which are reported to have been effected, among human beings and cattle, may have proceeded. Yet, whatever good effect the water may have upon this in- sidious disorder, its first operation most certainly must be to neutralise the bad effect of the climate, which to consump- tive patients must decidedly be a very severe trial ; for, delightful as it is to people in robust health, yet the keen- ness of the mountain air, together with the sudden alternations of temperature to which the valley of Schlangenbad is exposed, must, I think, be anything but a remedy for weak lungs. " The effect produced irpon the skin by lying about 20 minutes in the bath I one day happened to overhear a short fat Frenchman describe to his friend in the following words : — ' Monsieur, dans ces bains on devient absolument amoureux de soi-meme t" I cannot exactly cor- roborate this Gallic statement, yet I must admit that limbs, oven old ones,, gradually do appear as if they were converted into white marble. The skin assumes a sort of glittering, phosphoric brightness, resembling very much white objects which, having been thrown overboard in calm weather within the tropics, many of my readers have pro- bably watched sinking in the ocean,, which seems to blanch and illuminate them as they descend. The effeet is very extraordinary ; and I know not how to account it, unless it be pro- duced by some prismatic refraction, caused by the peculiar particles with which the fluid is impregnated. " The Schlangenbad water contains the muriates and carbonates of Kme,. soda, and magnesia, with a slight excess of carbonic acid, which holds the car- bonates in solution. The celebrated embellishment which it produces on the skin is, in my opinion, a sort of corrosion, which removes tan, or any other artificial covering that the sur- face may have attained from exposure and ill-treatment by the sun and wind. Y 3 490 ROUTE 95. — SCHLANGENBAD. EXCURSIONS. Sect. VIII. It short, the body is cleaned by it, just as a kitcben.rna.aid scours ber copper saucepan: and tbe effect being evident, ladies modestly approach it from tbe most distant parts of Europe, I am by no means certain, however, that they receive any permanent benefit; indeed, on tbe contrary, I should think that their skins would eventually be- come, if anything, coarser, from the removal of a slight veil or covering iru- tended by nature as a protection to the puticle.' ? — Bubbles. From the above description of these waters, it will be evident that Schlan- genbad is peculiarly a "ladies' bath;" and it may be conjectured, from its effects in calming the mind, invigora- ting the limbs, and smoothing wrinkles from the skin, that if " the fountain of youth," so zealoxisly sought for in for* pier days even at the very ends of the earth, exist anywhere, it is to be found in the lonely valley of Schlangenbad. The invalid who has imbibed in his skin the ferruginous particles of tbe Schwalbach water, usually repairs hither afterwards, in order to wash, away the rust by a course of bathing at the Ser- pent's Spring. There is nothing extra- ordinary in the mineral contents of these waters which would enable chemists to account for their virtue ; it probably proceeds from some peculiar admix-* ture derived from the chemistry of nature, which at present art is unable to explain, and equally incapable of imitating. Tradition relates that tbe spring was discovered some hundred years ago by a sick heifer, who every day sepa- rated herself from the herd to drink of it. The herdsman, surprised both at the periodical absence of the animal, and at the improvement in ber con- dition, traced her foosteps one day, until he discovered her drinking at the warm spring, which now affords the same relief to human invalids which it did in the first instance to the quadru- ped. Schlangenbad is provided neither with a gaming-table nor a ball-room ; those who seek such amusements must repair to. Schwalbach or "Wiesbaden. A band of music plays on tbe walks, to enliven tbe daily promenade of the water-drinkers ; but the chief attractions of the place are the more natural and secluded walks among the woods and hills of the neighbourhood. Donkeys are the favourite means of conveyance, for gentlemen as well as ladies, here as elsewhere, among the baths of the Taunus. English Church Service, during the season, at 5 p.m., in a chapel belonging to the Duke of Nassau. Schlangenbad is situated within a few miles of some of the most beautiful scenery of the Rhine, overlooked for the most part by the great herd of tra- vellers, who content themselves with steaming up and down the river. "Within the distance of a day's excur- sion are situated the following inter- esting spots : — 1. Georgenbom, a village which com- mands a beautiful prospect over the Rhine and the Main ; and Frauenstein, a small hamlet, with an old castle, and a very ancient and large lime tree. 2. The Monastery of Eberbach, in a highly picturesque situation, at the bottom of a wooded dell, described p. 288. In the way to it the stranger will pass Rauenthel, a small village, with famous vineyards in its neigh- bourhood ; and the chapel of Buben- hausen, a magnificent point of view ; the ruined castle of Scbarfenstein (once a stronghold of the Archbishops of Mayence); and the beautiful Gothic chapel (1449) of Kiedrich (p. 289). Eberbacb was founded in 1131, by St. Bernard, tbe preaoher of the Cru- sades, "While he rambled about in doubt where to fix his holy establish- ment, a boar issuing out of a thicket indicated with his snout the spot upon which the church was afterwards reared. The monks of St. Bernard were famed for their riches and hospi- tality; — tbe order possessed in the Rheingau, and within a space of S leagues, no less than 6 convents — Zufenthal, Eberbach, Gottestbal, Ei- bingen, Nothgottes, and Marienhau- sen ; they were besides tbe owners of the Steinberg vineyard, and used to export its produce in vessels of their own down the Rhine to Cologne. Nassau. ROUTE 95. WIESBADEN. 491 The vineyards„the wines, and the con- vent, with its estate and cellars, now belong to the Duke of Nassau. The destination of the building has been changed to a prison and lunatic asy- lum ; but he retains the cellars in their ancient use ; they are stored with the most precious wines : some sorts sell on the spot for 7, 9, or 11 florins the bottle, and even higher. The archi- tecture of the church is much admired. The Swedish minister and general, Oxenstierna, took up his winter quar- ters in the convent, 1631. The view from the height called the Boss, near the convent, is one of the finest in the Rheingau. (See p. 289.) Immediately below it is the famed Steinberg vine- yard. 3. To the castle and vineyard of Johannisberg, and the Niederwald, described in p. 287. The carriage- road lies along the highway to May- ence, as far as the village of Neudorf, where it turns to the rt., and follows for a couple of miles a lane leading to Eltville on the grand route, along the rt. bank of the Rhine, to Riidesheim. There is a bridle-road direct from Schlangenbad to Eberbach and the Niederwald, through the woods; but a guide would be necessary to find it out. There is a cross country foot or horse path, from Schlangenbad to Wiesbaden, by the Chaussee house, or by Frauen- stein and Dotzheim. Road from Schwalbach to Frankfurt. The post-road, on quitting Schwal- bach, at once begins to ascend. The way to Schlangenbad and Mayence turns down a valley to the rt. before you surmount the hill called Hoke Wurzel, from whose top there is a very remarkable prospect, stretching over the Rhine and Main, with Mayence in the middle distance, and the Bergstrasse in the background. On the 1. is seen the village of Klarenthal, with its ci-devant convent, and further in the distance the Platte, a hunting-seat of the Duke's : both favourite points of excursions for the inhabitants of Wiesbaden. 2 Wiesbaden has been justly called " a city of lodging-houses," almost every building being appropriated either to the reception or entertainment of visitors. Inns : Rose, kept by Schmidt, good — charges very reasonable and landlord most attentive ; Vier Jahres- zeiten(Four Seasons), a large andhand- some building ; Post (or Eagle, Acller), rather bustling — charges are fixed by a printed tariff; Nassauer Hof, a first- rate, well-furnished, quiet hotel, in the great square and close to the theatre — charges reasonable (these 4 have baths in the house) ; Taunus Hotel ; Schiitzen- hof (Shooter's Hotel) ; H. Diiringer, and London Hotel, bothnearthe railway. There are besides more than 20 houses licensed to afford lodgings only,, where meals are not provided ; but there are restaurateurs in the town who will send in dinners. The author of the " Bubbles" found the landlord of the Englische Hof " exceedingly civil and anxious to humour his old-fashioned whims and oddities." There are baths in the house. The weekly ,oh.Bxges are — for a good bed-room 20 fr. ; for break- fast 7 fr. ; a bath costs 1 fr. The best tables-d'hote are at the Kursaal, where a dinner costs 1 fl. at 1 o'clock, 1 fl. 45 kr. at 4 o'clock. For this-moderate sum a most excellent din- ner, comprising all the delicacies of the season, even ice, is provided. 1 5 dif- ferent dishes are sometimes given for 15c?. ! i. e. one penny a dish on an average. Such a dinner could not be had in England for less than 15s. Wiesbaden is the capital of the Duchy of Nassau, and has 14,000 inhab. It is the residence of the Duke and the seat of his government. To these cir- cumstances, however, it is in nowise indebted for its present prosperity, but to the celebrity of its baths and mineral waters. (§ 41.) The number of visit- ors attracted to this spot in search of health and pleasure has of late amounted to 15,000 annually. Though the most frequented of all the German baths, the society is not of so high an order as that found at Ems or Baden. From its vicinty to Frankfurt and Mayence it is subject to the constant influx of citizens from these 2 places, and it may in this respect be termed the Margate of Germany. This is mentioned merely 492 ROUTE 95. — WIESBADEN. KURSAAL. SPRINGS. Sect. VIII. by way of distinguishing this from other watering-places, and not by way of disparagement, for in the season there is no lack of high German aristocracy, and princes and nobles from all parts of the Continent. The other German visitors, of whatever class, are well- conducted, quiet, and respectable. "Wies- baden has a " season" of longer dura- tion than most of the other baths, and is almost always full from June to Sep- tember, and even later, if the autumn prove fine. The most remarkable edifice is the Kursaal, occupying square, the N. and the E. side of a S. sides of which are lined by colonnades filled with gay shops, serving as a promenade in wet weather and as a sort of bazaar during the whole of the season. Opposite the Kursaal, in one corner of the square, is the theatre, in the other the huge hotel of the Yier Jahreszeiten. The Kursaal serves the fourfold pur- pose of banquet, ball, reading, and gaming room, and forms the centre of attraction and gaiety. It consists of a very splendid saloon of large dimensions, surroundedby pillars of Limburg marble. A table-d'hote dinner is served here (see p. 491), sometimes to as many as 300 persons, of all ranks, from sovereign princes down to ordinary bourgeois. On Sunday the Kursaal is so numerously attended that it is necessary to bespeak a place the day before ; and it often happens that the great room is not large enough to contain all the guests. In the evening it is appropriated to danc- ing. Twice a week (Wednesday and Saturday), a public ball is given, to which the admission is 1 fl. for gentle- men — ladies are admitted gratis. It begins at 10 o'clock. On the rt. hand of the salle are the gambling-rooms, where gaming is car- ried on almost from morning to night, and on the 1. are supper-rooms, which are usually fully occupied in the even- ing. Supper is served a la carte. When dinner is over every one be- takes himself to the garden behind the Kursaal, to sip coffee or ices. Tables are placed out in the open hearing of a band of always plays on these occasions; and air, within music, which while the gentlemen indulge in what Mrs. Trollope is pleased to call " the nasty habit of smoking," the ladies, in the homely and industrious fashion of Germany, generally occupy themselves by knitting while they chat. At such times the space behind the Kursaal is so completely filled with company, and the tables are so crowded together, that there is barely room to pass ; high and low are promiscuously mingled together, and the whole forms the most pleasing and characteristic scene of " Wiesbaden Life." The hours of drinking the waters are from 5 or 6 to 8 in the morning, and again partially in the evening about 6 or 7. A short interval is allowed to elapse between the morning draught and the bath. A long avenue of stumpy acacias serves as a promenade for the water- drinkers, and leads up to the principal spring, the KocJibrunnen (boiling spring). It has all the appearance of a caldron in violent ebullition, and its temperature is 56° of Eeaumur, equal to 156° of Fahrenheit. Its waters are used both for drinking and to supply the principal baths in the town ; but so copious is the source that after all this consumption a vast quantity runs over and escapes through the gutters and drains. A stranger is astonished at first, as he walks along the streets, to perceive clouds of vapour arising on all sides out of the ground. This may be sup- posed to add somewhat to the warmth of the place in summer : if other places are hot, Wiesbaden may be said to be boiling hot. There are 13 other springs in the town, all of a high temperature. The spring next in heat and volume is that rising in the garden of the Adler hotel (48° Beauniur). It is probable that they are all derived from one cen- tral source, breaking out in different spots, as their mineral ingredients are nearly the same, and the slight differ- ence of temperature may arise solely from their being more or less distant from the fountain-head. The water-drinkers repair to the well at 5 or 6 o'clock a.m., and, receiving their portion scalding hot, walk about, glass in hand, until it is cool enough to Nassau. ROUTE 95. — WIESBADEN. PFAHLGRABEN. 493 bo drunk. In taste it has been com- pared to chicken broth. By 8 o'clock the promenade is usually cleared, and the business of bathing begins. The water in the bath is covered with a greasy film or scum, which collects on the surface while cooling : and which, however uninviting it may appear, is the test of its being quite fresh, and not having been used before. After the ceremony of the bath, the doctors allow their patients to take their breakfast, which they have thus in a manner earned. Physician Sir Alex. Downie, M.D., attends from Frankfurt on certain days here and at Homburg to see patients. The hot springs and their medicinal properties were well known to the Bomans, who called them Forties Mat- tiaci. Pliny the naturalist says of them, that they retain their heat for the space of 3 days : — " Sunt et Mattiaci in Germania fontes calidi quorum haus- tus triduo fervet."— Nat Hist. lib. 31. e. 2. Formerly the waste Abaters from the springs were allowed to collect in a pond outside the town, which, in con- sequence of its retaining for a length of time a warm temperature, became the resort of wild-fowl in winter. Even now that they are carried off at once to the Rhine, they not only never freeze, but, by their warmth, even preserve that part of the river where they enter free from ice. They serve as a nursery or stew for carp, which, fostered by the heat, grow to an enormous size in them. They deposit a copious calcareous sedi- ment or stalactite, which would in a short time choke up the pipes and channels in which they are carried through the town, were they not regu- larly cleared out. Bubbles of gas rise through the water at the springs, a phenomenon quite independent of those eaused by the boiling temperature, and "indicating, probably, some connection of the springs with volcanic agency in the interior of the earth. The Romans established a station here — they built a fort or castle on the hill to the N.W. of the town, still known as the Bomerberg, which was for a long time garrisoned by the 22nd Legion, as is proved by inscriptions on stones and stamps upon the tiles found near the spot. There is an obscure tradition that Nero had a mansion here ; and another hill near the Bomerberg goes by the name of Nerosberg. The inhabitants of the country, the Mattiaci, a division of the warlike German tribe, the Catti, became aUies of the Romans. In the 3rd cent, the barbarian Germans attacked and destroyed the Boman for- tresses on the rt. bank of the Bhine, and Wiesbaden shared the fate of the rest. Ashes and calcined bones still dug up on the Bomerberg attest its ruin ; and the period at which it took place is marked by the coins found there, none being later than the time of Gallienus. In addition to urns, tiles, coins, lamps, bones, and such trifling- remains, with which the ground in and about the town teems, whenever the foundation of a house is dug ; ancient baths have been discovered in several places ; and votive tablets, bearing the thanks of some noble Boman to the gods for cures effected by the waters, are preserved at the Museum. In after times Charlemagne used constantly to repair hither from his favourite resi- dence at Ingelheim, to enjoy the baths. He built himself a palace (Sala) in the street which still retains the name of Saal Gasse, though the building has dis- appeared. In the town at the bottom of the Heidenberg Strasse, and behind the Ad- ler hotel, is a small piece of stone wall, called the Heidenmauer (Heathen's Wall). The top of the Heidenberg Strasse is 60 or 80 ft. higher than the best part of Wiesbaden. It is now a street of low habitations. The old for- tified Boman town was clearly some- where here. The antiquaries fix on the Bomerberg Strasse, the next street paral- lel to the Heidenberg Str. A few miles to the 1ST. of Wiesbaden are the remains of a fortified wall, pass- ing through a great extent of country. It is called the Pfahlgraben. Before the Bo- mans quitted the country N. of the Bhine, they raised this stupendous barrier along their frontier. It was begun, ac- cording to Tacitus, by Drusus, stepson of Augustus, to defend his conquest from the inroads of the Germans, and was finished by Hadrian and Caracalla. 494 ROUTE 95. — WIESBADEN. MUSEUM. Sect. VIII. It resembles the Picts' wall in England, but surpasses it in extent. It consists of a rampart from 12 to 18 ft. high, strengthened by towers at regular dis- tances, and with a fosse originally lined with palisades, whence its name. It commences at Neuwied on the Rhine ; it runs thence by Montabauer to Ems, across the Lahn by Miehlen, Schwal- bach, Wehen, Idstein, and Heftrich to the foot of the Eeldberg, and from thence may be traced in a N.E. direc- tion, by Wehrheim, towards Butzbach. Several of the summits of the Taunus are crowned by forts or circular ram- parts. This wall, raised to protect the Mattiaci against the inroads of the Catti, has been supposed, but erroneously, to form part of the great stone wall con- structed by the Empr. Probus from the Danube to the Rhine, to protect the provinces of the empire against the Alemanni. (See Gibbon, ch. xii.) The SchWsschen (little palace), in the Wilhelm's Strasse, contains a very good Public Library of 60,000 volumes, includ- ing among the MSS. the Vision of St. Hndegard, on parchment, with remark- able miniatures of the 12th cent., and a Museum or Cabinet of Antiquities, chiefly local, or derived from the Duchy of Nassau. The most curious relic, per- haps, is a bas-relief found at Heddem- heim, near Frankfurt, representing the youthful god Mythras, in a Phrygian bonnet, in the act of sacrificing a pros- trate bull, surrounded by symbolical figures, and surmounted by the 1 2 signs of the Zodiac. The worship of Mythras was introduced by the Romans from Persia, and set up by the Pagan priest- hood in opposition to Christianity, then in its infancy. A Roman town, and a temple of Mythras, existed at Haddemheim, from the ruins of which this and other curious bas- reliefs, statues, altars, &c. have been found. Here is also the bronze top of the standard of a cohort of the 22nd Legion ; a curiously carved altar-piece (25 ft. long and 9 ft. high), from the sequestrated abbey of Marienstadt, near Hachenburg, dating from the 13th cent. ; the monuments of Diether and Ebcr- hard von Katzenelnbogen brought from the convent of St. Clara, and some painted glass. There is also a collection of Pictures, but few of them answer to the names attached to them. A handsome R. Catholic church has been built — the towers and pinnacles are not complete, Oct. 1849 — in the Louisen Platz. The performance at the TJieatre com- mences here at 6 o'clock ; but unless some very remarkable performers are engaged few persons will be disposed to forego the pleasures of a good ride or walk, and a charming landscape, for 3 hrs. of stifling heat and of mediocre act- ing or music. Strangers residing for a few weeks can be introduced by members of the Casino to read the newspapers in their reading-room. English Church Service is performed every Sunday, during summer, in the Lutheran Church in the Kirch Gasse, by an English clergyman, at 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. ; during winter, in the Hotel de la Rose, at 1 1 a.m. and 3± p.m. Eilwagen daily to Ems and Coblenz ; 3 times a day to Riidesheim ; daily to Limburg. "Wiesbaden differs from the other watering-places of Nassau, in being a regularly built town. It is also some- what noisy and bustling during the season, but has the same advantages with the rest in beauty of situation, and a picturesque neighbourhood, affording agreeable walks and rides, and the most complete retirement within a few hun- dred yards of its precincts. By ascend- ing any of the adjacent heights, ele- vated only a few hundred ft. above the town, a charming prospect is disclosed to view, of the Rhine and fertile Rheingau, in which the spires and boat -bridge of Mayence form a prominent object; and the horizon is backed on the E. by the Odenwald and by the Melibocus sur- mounted by its white tower ; on the S. by the ridge of the Donnersberg or MontTonnere, in Rhenish Bavaria. From the Geisbcrg, about a mile from the town, this view is seen to great advantage. One of the pleasantest walks, and nearest at hand, is through the shrub- beries, which begin behind the Km-saa., to the Dietenmiihle and ruined castle of Sonnenbcrg, a distance of 2 m. IB 1 Cathedral F e 2 S*.Leonhard . D f 3 SlPeter's. ....... F a 4 Idebfrauenkirche E c 5 SfMcholas . E e 6 SfPaul E d 7 S? Catherine Be 3 Homer (TownliaTl >....E e 9 SaaJhof Ee \0 Pal. of Teutonic order F g 11 Palace of Prince- of '.... Thurn & Taxis. „.D o 12 Stddel Museum B d 13 Serikenberg Mus. D o 14 Public Library. H e 15 M.Bethmann G a 16 Exchange. E d 11 Post office, _.E c 18 Tlieatre _.C c 19 Casino D d 20C.Jiigels snap D d 21 House in which Goetlte was born D d 22 Goethe's Statue... C d 23 Man* of Hessians G a. 24 Police Guard ... F <• 25 Svnugogue F c 26 Rothschilds ..F c B Hot el s 27H.de Riissie. 28 Romischer Kaiser. . 29 H. d 'Angleterre . 30 Weisse Schwan. 31 JVeideribusch . Nassau. ROUTE 95. FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN. 495 A more extensive and beautiful view, however, is obtained from the Platte, a hunting-seat of the Duke of Nassau, about 4 m. off ; an excellent carriage- road leads up to it. It is a plain white building conspicuous from all sides, situated on the verge of a hill 1300 ft. above the Rhine, overlooking the plain, and backed by thick woods ; within, it is tastefully and appropriately fitted up ; part of the furniture is ingeniously formed out of buck-horn. It is shown to strangers at all times. The view is best seen from the platform on the roof. The neighbouring woods abound in herds of deer : many of them assemble round the Platte in the evening to be fed. The pedestrian may find a short cut over the Geisberg, and past the weeping oak, to the Platte. The road is quite direct, and the pedestrian has only to avoid turning off either to the rt. or 1. into the cross-roads which occur at intervals. A little to the left of the road to the Platte lies the convent (now se- cularised) of Klarenthal, and the Fa- scmerie (Pheasantry), a shooting-box of the Duke's, which also deserves a visit. At Biberich, the palace of the Grand Duke of Nassau, close to the railroad to Mayence, lies pleasantly by the side of the Ehine (see p. 289). The numerous interesting spots situated in the Bheingau between Biberich, Eiidesheim, and above all the Nie- derwald, all within the distance of a morning's ride from Wiesbaden, are described in Ete. 38 (p. 286 to 290). An agreeable excursion of a day or two may be made through the part of the range of the Taunus lying between Wiesbaden and Homburg. (Ete. 97.) It is little known or visited by Eng- lish travellers, partly because it is not accessible for heavy carriages by any direct road from Wiesbaden. Wiesbaden is connected with the Ehine at Biberich and Mayence by a railroad. Trains in 16 min., to May- ence, and thence to Frankfurt in 1^ hr. Fiacres from the railway into the town, for 1 or 2 persons, 24 kr. ; for 3, 30 kr. ; for 4, 36 kr. For the railway hence to Mayence and Frankfurt, see Ete. 99. Frankfurt on the Main (in Ger- man, Frankfurt-am-Main). — Inns: H. de Eussie, handsomely furnished, and excellent as a family hotel : table- d'hote at 1, 1 fl. ; at 4, 1 fl. 45 kr. (wine extra) ; — Eomischer Kaiser ; — H. d'Angleterre, has greatly im- proved ; — Der Weisse Schwan (White Swan) ; and opposite to it Der Weiden- busch (Willow), large and good; — Mainlust, on the river, near the railway stations ; — Pariser Hof. Frankfurt is a Free Town, and the seat of the German Diet ; it lies on the rt. bank of the Main, and is connected by a stone bridge with the smaller quarter or suburb of Sachsenhausen on the 1. bank. It has 68,000 inhab., of whom 6000 are Jews. It is one of the most lively as well as handsome cities in Germany. Many of the houses in the New Town, especially in the prin- cipal street, called Zeil, in the New Street of Mayence (Neue Mainzer Strasse), and on the quays facing the Main, inhabited by rich merchants, bankers, or diplomatists, are literally palaces. The Old Town, on the other hand, with its narrow streets and quaint wooden buildings, with gables over- hanging their basement stories, forms a complete contrast to the new. Many of the houses are of great antiquity, especially in the quarter around the Cathedral and Eomerberg; they pre- serve all the character of " the ancient Imperial Free City." The curiosities of Frankfurt are — The Cathedral (Dom) ; it is chiefly remarkable for its antiquity (the nave, the oldest part, dates from the 13th cent., and the choir from 1338), and on account of the coronation of the Em- perors of Germany having taken place within it. The church is not much dis- tinguished for beauty or symmetry of architecture. The finest portion is its tower, begun 1415, and carried on for nearly 100 years to its present condition, and still unfinished. It has also a fine S. doorway, which is blocked up by sheds. The interior is very plain, whitewashed, and with a vile modern gallery running ERAsngBNEXErtL . iatheSral F « 2 StLtmJidrd I> /' .-) Sfteteri F o 1 Liebiratieiik-irrhe E r 3 S!Xi,h„hi.< E e i; ,i-/ /;/«/ E -' 7 .V' / ntlifriri? . D r A BSnuffTomihaU ) E <• ;» SaaViof E' !<>/)// ,,,'feiilonif Older. F <1 U tdlaa of Trimeaf Tlmrn d\ Ttuai. l> >> 12 St&del Museum B rf Li Srnlfniberq Mux D h H /W>/i> Library H <• 15 .1/ BsO un a mi lr •< 16 Exchange Erf 17 ftm (jfWra E <■ 18 tfieatn C_* Hi Carirw l> >' tOCJiigeU ehop Od 21 &OWIS in iv/iir/i i.in'tlir mi.sbnrn Dd/ ttBoetheb Statu* C <' tAHonZorhessums <» " 21 ;'..//>.' Guard ... F c 2hSvnaaogu& F c 26 RothedtOde - F '• Hotels 27 //. .?>• Riiniue E <■ 28 Jtomitrher Kaiser .E r 20 j7 rf 'Angkitm aOWr/sm- Sfhtrm 31 Weidenb, I- UULl Engraved I^IiCWBp Published bv John Murray Albemarle StreetLondonl8bO^ 496 ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT. ROMER. Sect. VIII. round one side of the transepts and the aisles. It contains one or two curious monuments, especially that of the Em- peror Gunther of Schwarzburg (on the rt. of the choir), who was killed (1349) hy his rival Charles IV., and that of Rudolph of Sachsenhausen abundantly ornamented ; a curious group of old painted sculpture of the 12th cent, representing the Death of the Virgin (in the chapel on the 1. side of the choir) ; and a remarkable clock, 1460, close to the JST. door. St. Bernard preached the Crusade to an enthusiastic audience, and performed miracles, in this church. In the Election Chapel (Wahlkapelle) the Emperor was chosen : and 46 Emperors, after having here gained their election, were afterwards crowned in front of the high altar. Here are shown the chair in which the Emperor sat in church, and two of the stools for the Electors. The Town - house, called Rb'mer, a building of the 15th cent., has also far less of architectural beauty to re- commend it than of historical interest, as the scene of the ceremonies attend- ing the Election of the Emperors, and the place where the festivities succeed- ing their coronation were celebrated. The walls of the banqueting-room or Kaisersaal, an irregular apartment, in the shape of a rhomboid, where the Emperors were entertained, and waited on at table by kings and princes, are covered with their portraits (52) in the order of succession, from Conrad I. to Francis II., recently painted by Lessing, Bendeman, Rcthel y and other eminent living artists, in the place of some vile daubs of the sign -post school. Under nearly every one is the motto which the Emperor adopted at his coronation, like sergeants-at-law when called to the degree of the coif. At the end of the Hall is the Judgment of Solomon by Steinle. These paintings are the gifts of different royal, noble, and private persons, citizens of Frank- furt, &c, and many have great merit. The Hall has been restored in adherence to the ancient style, the decoration of the ceiling being copied from the ori- ginal design. In the election chamber (Wahlzimmer) , the Senate of Frankfurt now holds its sittings. Here is pre- served the famous Golden Bull, or deed by which the Empr. Charles IV. (1356) settled the mode of Election of the German Emperors, and the number of the Electors. It is shown for the extra- vagant fee of a ducat, which many will consider the sight of a dusty parchment hardly to deserve. The Kaisersaal, which is on the 1st floor, is open to the public every Monday and Wed- nesday from 11 to 1 : at other times admission may be gained by ringing the bell of that door of the antecham- ber of the "Wahlzimmer, which is op- posite to the door by which it is en- tered. In the Market-place, called the Bornerberg, in front of the building, upon the occasion of the Imperial coronation, an ox was roasted whole, from which the Arch-Steward (Erb- Truchsess) cut a slice for the Emperor : a fountain flowed with wine from which the Arch-Cupbearer (Erb-Mundschenk) filled his glass, and the Arch-Marshal distributed com from a silver measure ; and the populace enjoyed the privilege of appropriating the scarlet cloth upon which the Emperor walked from the cathedral. So greedily was it cut away behind him as he passed onwards, that he ran the risk of having his heels cut also. The ceremonies observed at an Imperial coronation may be seen in some old prints on the staircase of the public library, and in the election chapel at the cathedral. Drawings of the re- galia too are hung up on the library staircase. St. Leonhard's Ch. (1323), near the river, occupies the spot where the pa- lace of Charlemagne stood : no traces of it now exist. He assembled the Bishops and Princes of the Empire here at Frankonofurd (the Frank's ford). The Saalhof, a gloomy modern build- ing (1717), near the Main, retains the name alone of the palace of his son and successors. The Gothic chapel, however, appears to be as old as the 10th cent. Sachsenhausen, the Southwark of Frankfurt, on the 1. bank of the river, is, as its name implies, a Saxon colony — a different race from the Franks on Nassau. ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT. MUSEUM. 497 the rt. bank of the Main, and is under a distinct jurisdiction. Immediately above the old Bridge over the Main, which is crowned by a modern statue of Charlemagne, on the side of Sach- senhausen, stands the ancient Palace of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. Close to the bridge are remains of the old palace of the Counts of Isenberg ; one side is of good Elizabethan gothic. There are two institutions for the encouragement of arts and sciences, which reflect the highest credit upon the town of Frankfurt. 1. The Stddel Museum of Pictures, a handsome building, in the Neue Main- zer Strasse, is named after its founder, a citizen of Frankfurt, who bequeathed his collections of paintings, drawings, and engravings to the city, along with a large sum, amounting to about 83,000/., for building and maintaining a Public Gallery and School of Art. The sum annually available for the purchase of pictures is about 800 guineas. The secretary is M. Passa- vant, the biographer of Kaphael. The collection is open to the public gratis, from 10 to 1, daily, except Saturday, when it is open to strangers passing through, from 11 to 1. The pictures which it contains con- sist of some curious specimens of the early masters of Germany and the Low Countries, of a not very numerous or remarkable collection of Dutch and Italian masters, and of some of the best works of the modern German School. The following are perhaps the most worthy of notice : — 1st Boom. Italian School. 1, Peru- gino — Virgin and Child. 18, Called a Raphael, but certainly not one, as the author of the catalogue allows — Virgin and Child. 19, Gio. Bellini — Holy Family. 399, Moretto — Virgin and Child, with the four Fathers of the Latin Church (from Cardinal Fesch's collection : cost 30,000 fl.), a very re- markable work, perhaps the finest by the master on this side the Alps. 400, Paris Bordone — Sketch for his great picture at Venice, representing the Fisherman presenting St. Mark's Ping to the Doge. (Handbook for N. Italy, p. 359.) 2nd Boom (Grosser Saal). Here are the following works of modern German artists: — 96, Hubnei Job with his Friends. 99, Zessing — Huss before the Council of Constance. Very carefully composed and elaborately finished ; los- ing, indeed, much of its power by its minute finish. 100, Achenbach — Storm on the coast of Norway. 103, Bethel — Daniel in the Lions' Den. 104, Schnorr — The Good Samaritan. 106, Zessing — Ezzelin in Prison, after the Battle of Cassano. 2>rd Boom. Overbeck — The Triumph of Christianity in the Arts. Considered a chef d'oeuvre of the artist : all the heads are portraits of persons renowned as authors, divines, or artists. In this production of elaborate pedantry the traveller will easily discover how much the artist has borrowed from Raphael's School of Athens and Dispute of the Sacrament. 111. A remarkable altar- piece, consisting of a centre and two wings, representing the events of the Crucifixion, by a Cologne artist of the beginning of the 1 5th cent. ; formerly attributed to Schoreel. In this room are some curious works of the early German School, and a portrait by Q. Metsys, 138, erroneously called Knip- perdolling. 4th Boom. Butch and Flemish Schools. A poor collection. 186, Hobbema — Landscape. 194, Buysdael — Storm clear- ing off. Wood and Waterfall. 201, Wynants — Landscape. 221, Bubens — Portrait of his infant Daughter, who afterwards became a nun. In the room beyond the last there is nothing worthy of remark, but in the next are the following works: — 344, Schadow—Tlie wise and foolish Virgins. 347-356, Steinle — 10 coloured cartoons, for the frescoes at the Castle of Pheineck (p. 275). 357-361, Schnorr— Cartoons of subjects from Orlando Furioso. 362-371, Bamboux — 10 coloured draw- ings from the Divina Comedia. In a room opening out of the 3rd room, and called the Fresco-Saal, is a fresco by Veit, representing the introduction of the arts into Germany by Christianity, with two allegorical figures of Italy and Germany at the sides. Here are casts of the latest of Ghiberti's 2 cele- 498 ROUTE 95. FRANKFURT. MUSEUM. LIBRARY. Sect. VIII. brated bronze doors of the Baptistery, Florence ; and of parts of the other, and of that by Andrea Pisano ; and a singular and very remarkable composi- tion, in terra cotta, representing the Virgin and Saints, by Giorg. Andrioli, 1511, from the Ch. of the Madonna del Rosario at Gubbio, in the province of Urbino. The very interesting collec- tion of engravings contains some etch- ings by Flemish masters not to be met with in any other cabinet. 2. The Senkenberg Museum of Na- tural History (close to the picturesque Eschenheim Gate, a building of the 14th cent.) contains very good col- lections in the various branches of na- tural history, tolerably well arranged. Many rare specimens, not to be found in other museums, were brought to Europe by the enterprising traveller Riippel, a native of Frankfurt, from Egypt, Nubia, the shores of the Red Sea, and Abyssinia. They are the re- sult of several arduous and interesting journeys undertaken by him, at his own expense, for the benefit of this museum. A small annuity has been settled on him for life by the city of Frankfurt since his return. There is a small ethnological collection at the top of the house. The Museum is opened to the public gratis, twice a week, for 2 hrs. ; "Wed. 2 to 4 ; Frid. 11 to 1. Members have access every afternoon. A small fee to the keeper will procure admission for a stranger from 8 to 1 and 3 to 6 on other days, to this collection. Dannecker's Statue of Ariadne, in the garden of Mr. Bethman, near the Fried- burg Gate, is the great boast of Frank- furt, and deserves to be ranked among the distinguished productions of modern art. The artist, whose works are little known in England, was a native of Wiirtemberg. The statue is placed in a pavilion built for its reception, and is usually shown from 10 to 1 daily. Here is preserved a mask from the face of the unfortunate Prince Lichnowsky, so basely and cruelly nmrdered by Re- publican bloodhounds, Sept. 19, 1848, near this spot. A very pretty reduced copy of the Ariadne in bronze may be had of Ihlee, No. 63, Zeil. Just outside the Friedburg Gate stands the monument erected by the King of Prussia to the memory of the Hessian soldiers killed in the siege of Frankfurt, 1792. The Public Library, in a handsome building, facing the Main, close to the Ober Main Thor, is a useful collection of books. In the entrance-hall is a marble statue of Gothe, by Mavchesi. It is open to the public, Tues. and Thurs. 11 to 12. The Library possesses a few curiosities, among which are por- traits of Luther (by L. Cranachf), and of his wife Oath, a Bora; 2 pair of Luther's shoes, two missals with curious old carvings in ivory on the covers, and a fine copy of the first edition of the Bible printed by Faust, at Mentz. The Library is open, Tues. and Thurs. 11 to 12 ; Wed. and Frid. 2 to 4. St. George's Hospital, behind the Library, is a handsome new building, and a well-regulated establishment. The poet Gothe was born at Frank- furt, in the house marked F. No. 74, in the Hirschgraben, 1749. His father's coat of arms, which, by a curious coincidence, bears the poetical device of 3 lyres, still remains over the door. A monumental statue of him by Schwan- thaler of Munich has been set up in the Allee, facing the Theatre ; it is of bronze, pedestal and figure, and is a fine work : the subjects of the bas- reliefs are taken from Gothe' s works. A group of statues of Gutenberg, Faust, and Schoffer, the inventors of printing, will soon be placed in the Rossmarkt. Luther resided in a corner house in the Bom Platz, now marked by his bust and the inscription, " In silentio et spe erit fortitudo vestra." — C. K. Frankfurt is the cradle of the Roth- schild family ; the house in which they were born is in the Judengasse (Jews' Street), which long retained the pri- mitive air of antiqirity, and the usual rags and refuse of a Jew's quarter, but is gradually becoming modernized. The Jews, who form no inconsider- able portion of the community here, have till very lately been treated with great illiberality by the Free Town. The gates of the quarter to which they Nassau. ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT. EXCHANGE, ETC. 499 were exclusively confined were closed upon them at an early hour every night, after which ingress and egress were alike denied. This arbitrary municipal regulation was enforced, until Marshal Jourdan, in bombarding the town (1796), knocked down the gate of the Jews' quarter, along with many houses near it, and they have not been re- placed since. Another tyrannical law, not repealed until 1834, restricted the number of marriages among the He- brews in the town to 13 yearly. The Synagogue, an old and curious Gothic building, is situated in the Judengasse. The Jews are no longer compelled to live in this street, but may hire or pur- chase houses in other quarters. The principal business carried on at Frankfurt is banking and jobbing in the funds. A new Exchange (Borse) has been huilt on the Neue Kr'ame, behind the Romer. It is in the style which at Munich is called Byzantine ; and built of a brown stone, with stripes of red stone arranged in the fashion of the Cathedral at Sienna. The architect is Stiller, of Berlin ; the statues in front represent Hope and Prudence, the quarters of the Globe, Commerce, &c. The interior is a curious mongrel style of semi-mauresque, but worthy notice. The Braunfels, which formerly served that purpose, is an old building in which the Empr. Maximilian and Gus- tavus Adolphus resided; it is filled with traders at the fair time. Near the Borse is the modern Ch. of St. Paul, in which the would-be German Parlia- ment of 1848 met. Frankfurt has hitherto been a staple place, or entrepot, for central Europe, receiving the productions and manufac- tiu-es of all parts of the world, to dis- tribute them in detail over the whole Continent. In 1836 it acceded to the Prussian Custom-house league (§ 32), which may perhaps influence the ex- tent of its commercial transactions in future. The Frankfurt Fairs are held at Easter, and 3 weeks before Michael- mas. They are less important than formerly. While they last, and during the week preceding their commence- ment, the inns in the town are thronged to excess, so that it is difficult to obtain accommodation. The articles exposed for sale are, almost without exception, inferior to English manu- factures, but at the same time cheaper ; about one-fifth of the booths are pipe- shops ! The territory of Frankfurt does not much exceed 10 Eng. sq. m. in extent ; its limits are marked by ancient watch- towers erected on the high roads. The Germanic Diet used to meet at the residence of the Austrian Ambas- sador, who was its president, in the building, formerly the Palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis. Ministers from Great Britain, the United States, and almost all the states of Europe, reside here ; and travellers going to Austria or Italy should not neglect this opportunity of having their passport properly vise. As the Passport Offices are only open a few hours in the day, generally 2, 3, or 4 hours in the morning, and all close at noon ; and as the applicants are often very numerous, no time should be lost in sending the passport to be vise. The English P. 0. is open 9^—12 ; the U. States, 11—1 ; Aus- trian and Prussian, 10 — 12, and 3 — 5 p.m. ; Bavarian, 9 — 11. N.B. No passport can he vise until it has received the signature of the re- presentative of the country to which the bearer of the passport helongs. The office of British Consul is most worthily filled by Mr. Koch, one of the most eminent citizens, bankers, and Rhine wine exporters in Frankfurt. His house of husiness is No. 6, am Salzhaus, comer of the Rossmarkt. Of the multitude of English travellers who annually visit Frankfurt, there are few who cannot hear personal testi- mony to the urbanity and kindness of Mr. Koch. The English Service is performed once every Sunday at the French Ch. in the Allee, or in the Lutheran Ch. called Weisse Frauenkirche at 11^ by the chaplain of the embassy. English Physician, Sir Alexander Dow- nie : Dr. Spies is highly spoken of. The Theatre is very respectable in its orchestra and performers; it is 500 ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT ON" THE MAIN. Sect. VIII. usually open 5 days in the week; it begins at 6 and ends at 9. There is a summer theatre at Bockenheim, a vil- lage near Frankfurt on the N.W., and the first stat. on the Frankfurt and Cassel Railway (Rte. 70). The Post-office is No. 52 in the Zeil, a few doors from the Hotel de Eussie, on the same side of the street. The Casino is one of the best clubs (§ 44) in Germany ; nearly 100 dif- ferent papers are taken in ; among them most of the French papers, Galig- nani's Messenger, the Times, and one or two other English journals. Stran- gers are liberally admitted upon the introduction of a member, and even ladies on certain days. The Cafe Milani, in the Eossmarkt, next to the Hotel d'Angleterre, is on the plan of French and Italian Cafes and has a room for ladies, where no smoking is allowed. Baths. — Grrebs' warm, cold, vapour baths, &c, Main Kay, J 45, close to the Leonhards Thor and St. Leon- hard's Ch., are good. The shop of M. Jiigel, the bookseller, opposite the great guard-house, is a pleasant lounge. Besides guide-books, maps, and views likely to be useful and interesting to travellers, there are usually some very tolerable pictures, or other objects of art for sale here. Mr. Jiigel is the Galignani of Frankfurt ; he speaks English, and is very civil and obliging in furnishing all sorts of in- formation to strangers. Mr. Wilman's (67 Zeil) and Mr. Schmerber's (opposite the Hotel de Eussie) shops possess similar advantages. Bohemian glass may be had at Tac- chi's, No. 44 in the Zeil, and at Vogel- sang and Miiller's, Liebfrauenberg, G 53, who have a manufactory near Strakonitz. The reliefs cut in stags' horn (Hirsch- hom), after the manner of a cameo, are very pretty. They are made in the neighbouring village of Bocken- heim. They may be had at Bolder' s shop, 26 Zeil, and Bing's, also in the Zeil, and elsewhere. The bronze copy of the Ariadne of Dannecker is to be had here, and at Ihlee's, 63, Zeil. Pillot and Sohn, 35 Zeil, opposite the Hotel de Eussie, is a good shop for canvas work in wool, and embroidery (Stramin and Stickerei). Mr. S. Gands, 200 Mainzer Gasse, is recommended to the editor as a teacher of German. He is a native of Hanover. At Jager's shop (Jdgersche Buch- handlung), on the Dom Platz, oppo- site the N. door of the Cathedral, one of the oldest geographical establishments in Germany, a large assortment of maps, geographical works, &c, is kept. —67. B. 67. /. J. Weiler, on the WoUgrabeh (Let. A. No. 36), not far from the bridge, is a respectable money-changer. L. A. Hahn, Zeil, is also a money- changer. Public Gardens. — The agreeable belt of gardens which encircles the town of Frankfurt is one of its most pleasing and ornamental features. No stranger should omit to visit them. They occupy the site of the ancient fortifications, which had proved, on several occasions, a detriment rather than an advantage to the town, by subjecting it to the misery of sieges and bombardments. At the W. extremity of Frankfurt, on the bank of the Main, there are public gardens, called Mainlust, where a band plays in the afternoon. The Old and New Cemeteries, about a mile from the Friedberg Gate, are worth visiting (§ 45). The spot com- mands a charming view of Frankfurt and the Taunus. Among the monu- ments under the arcade at the upper end, that of the Bethman family, with beautiful bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen, is well worth notice. They are seen by looking through the door of open work at the N. end of the arcade. A costly monument has been set up to the Countess Reichenbach, who was mar- ried to the late Elector of Hesse. Sommering the naturalist, and Feuer- bach the lawyer, are buried here. Many pleasant Excursions may be made from Frankfurt. 1. To Wies- baden and the Brunnen of Nassau by railway (Ete. 95). 2. To the Tau- nus mountains by railwav as far as Hochst and Soden (Ete. 97). 3. To Homburg and its splendid new Kurhaus. Nassau. route 96. — giessen to coblenz. weilburg. 501 Omnibus 8 or 10 times a day (Etc. 97). To Offenbach, by railway, 2 m. above Frankfurt on the 1. bank of the Main, a nourishing, industrious town, where good travelling carriages are made, cheaper than the English, but not quite so good. The Prince of Thurn and Taxis enjoys the right of managing the Posts of some of the minor German states. His head post-office is at Frankfurt. Eilwagen [Office, Zeil, behind the post-office) — daily to Coblenz in 12 hrs., to Weilburg in 7 hrs., — to Sie- gen by Wetzlar in 14 hrs., — to Wurz- burg in 13 hrs., Nuremberg in 25. hrs., — to Ratisbon in 38 hrs., — to Paris by Metz by malleposte in 45 hrs., — Homburg, almost every hour. Railroads : — to Mayence and Wies- baden, — to Darmstadt and Heidelburg, combined terminus outside the Gallus Thor — to Cassel partially — to Ha- nau — to Offenbach. Steamers on the Main to Wiirzburg daily. (See Handbook S. Germany.) Hauser, the Lohnkutscher, is recom- mended as a respectable person, from whom carriages and horses may be hired § 34). Hire of a carriage for a journey. — " At Frankfurt the ordinary charge made by an innkeeper is 5 fr. a day for a caleche holding 4 inside, to be drawn by 2 horses, the postilion driving from the box; sometimes, however, such a carriage may be had for 4 fr. a day, if taken for some time. Such a carriage, second-hand, may be pur- chased in Frankfurt for 20?. or SOI." ROUTE 96. GIESSEN TO COBLENZ, AND DESCENT OF THE LAHN, BV WEILBURG, LIMBURG, AND EMS, 14 Germ. m. = 60 Eng. m. A schnellpost daily in 13-^ hrs. Giessen lies on the high road from Frankfurt to Cassel. (Rte. 70, p. 378.) Our road follows the 1. bank of the Lahn. A railway is talked of: 1851. There is a splendid view from the hill over which the road approaches. 2 Wetzlar. — Inn, Herzogliches Haus; tolerable, and civil people. This was anciently a free Imperial town, and seat of the Imperial Cham- ber from 1698 to 1806; but at the Peace of Paris, it, together with the isolated territory attached to it, was made over to the King of Prussia. It is old and badly built, but is charm- ingly situated in the Lahn valley; it contains about 5500 inhab., and has a Cathedral or JDom, a fine Gothic edifice, built at 3 periods ; it is amicably di- vided between Catholics and Protes- tants. The old portal, called Heiden- thurm, is said to be of the 8 th cent. The interior is curious, the monuments are well preserved. Wetzlar derives some celebrity from being the scene of Gothe's romance, " The Sorrows of Werther," founded on events which actually occurred here. The hero was a Legations Secretary, named Jeru- salem ; he is buried in ,the churchyard outside the Walbach Gate. In front of that gate is Charlotte's Fountain, and the house of her father, whose name was Amtmann Buff. The author has described, under the name of Walheim, the village of Garbenheim, 2 m. distant. The French General Hoche died at Wetzlar of consumption. 2 m. below Wetzlar is the fine Gothic ch. of Altenberg, recently restored, ori- ginally attached to a convent. It con- tains curious monuments. The next stage lies at some distance from the river, passing the town of Braunfels ; on the height above is the Chateau of the mediatised Prince of Solms-Braunfels. Immediately beyond it the Prussian territory ends, and that of Nassau begins. 3 Weilburg — (Inns : Schwan, good, with a fine view). Traube is beauti- fully situated on a high bank above the river, being built on a peninsula, which is joined to the 1. bank by a narrow neck of land, and has a Castle, an- ciently the residence of the Ducal family of Nassau -Weilburg, — removed since the extinction of the line of Nassau-Usingen to Biberich. The gardens extend down to the river. The Dukes of Nassau are buried in a church here. In the vicinity there is an ex- tensive park. The view of Weilburg is surpassed by few scenes in N. Ger- many, the principal features being the 502 ROUTE 96. — LIMBURG. THE LAHN". DIETZ. Sect. VIII. old castle on a rock, the bridge, and the winding river. The hill on which Weilburg stands has been perforated by a Tunnel for the passage of the waters of the Lahn. It is lighted with gas, and serves as a canal. The Lahn is to be made navigable as far as Mar- burg, at the expense of Prussia, Nassau, Hesse-Cassel, and Hesse-Darmstadt. It was at Weilburg, that in 1836, Mr. Hollond, M.P. for Hastings, Mr. Monk Mason, and Mr. C. Green, de- scended in the " Nassau Balloon," having made the voyage from London to this place in 18 hrs., starting at 1^- p.m., and arriving here at 7^ on the following morning. [There is a road hence by Usingen, over the Taunus, and down upon Hom- burg to Frankfurt, 8 Germ. m. = 38-^ Eng. m. A public conveyance runs daily on this road. The road between "Weilburg and Usingen passes through some fine forests, mostly belonging to the Duke of Nassau, whose park is passed. At Usingen is a palace be- longing to the Duke. From the top of the hill, before descending into Hom- burg, there is a fine view of the Oden- wald, as far as the Duchy of Baden.] This part of the valley of the Lahn is picturesque, enclosed by wooded hills, and is interesting to the geologist. It was formerly partitioned out between the 4 reigning houses of Solms, Isen- burg, Nassau, and Konigstein. The post road from Weilburg to Limburg is for the most part uninteresting; that passing by the ancient town and castle of Runkel, being a cross road, is bad. A little above Limburg, on the rt. bank of the Lahn, is the very old Church of Dietkirchen, standing on a rock, and containing bones of St. Mat- thew and St. Lubentius, as it is re- ported. 3 Limburg (Inns: Nassauer Hof; Deutscher Hof ; Bellevue), a very an- cient town on the Lahn. The superb Cathedral of St. George towers pre- eminently above the other buildings. It was originally founded 909, but the existing edifice is not older than the end of the 12th or beginning of the 13th cent. Its architecture is particu- larly interesting, as it exhibits the latest character of the Byzantine style, mixed with the commencement of the pointed Gothic. It contains several monuments of princes of Nassau, and a very old font, but is sadly disfigured by whitewash. The views of the winding Lahn from this church and from the picturesque bridge, and that of the church itself, from a mill on the bank of the river, are very fine. The MS. called Lim- burg Chronicle is one of the oldest sources of German history. A boat may be hired at Limburg to descend the river to Ems and Coblenz. Limburg is con- nected by good macadamised roads with Frankfurt, 8^ Germ. m. (Rte. 47); and Wiesbaden, 6 Germ. m. Nieder- Selters is about 9 m. off (p. 488). Eilwagen to Cologne daily, in 15 hrs. Wiesbaden daily, in 5 hrs. At Limburg the high road crosses and quits the Lahn. The next stage lies over a hilly country : L see S. Oran- ienstein and Schloss Schaumburg. 3 Montabaur [Inn: Weisses Boss), a very picturesque town ; its old castle originally belonged to the Elector of Treves ; is now a hunting lodge of the D. of Nassau. This stage lies through pretty country ; . a magnificent view of Ehrenbreitstein is obtained from the last hill before reaching 3 Coblenz (Rte. 37, p. 269). The Lahn between Limburg and Ems is very picturesque, and well worth exploring ; but the road along this part of its course is a cross road not practicable for English carriages. Dietz, 3 m. from Limburg (Inn, Hof von Holland ; good and clean; Adler), is romantically situated on the Lahn, which is crossed by a bridge 600 years old, overlooked by the castle of its an- cient counts, of Nassau-Dietz, built on the summit of a rock, now the principal prison of Nassau. Not far off is Oran- ienstein, a chateau of the D. of Nassau, not inhabited nor remarkable. At Dietz, a boat with 2 rowers may be hired for 6 or 7 fl. to descend the Lahn to Ems. The river winds so much as to make the distance nearly double that by the high road, and the passage to take up 6 hrs. It is not Nassau. ROUTE 97. — THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS. 503 unlike the Wye, though at first the scenery exhibits a sameness of beauty, the hills on both sides being covered with wood, and not distinguished by much variety of shape ; but the nu- merous villages and ruined castles on its banks contribute to embellish the views. A few miles below Dietz is the mineral spring of Fachingen on the 1., and, about as far again lower down, Geilnau on the rt. bank of the Lahn. Many thousand bottles of the water are exported annually : it is very like that of Selters. At a little distance from the Lahn, on its 1. bank, half-way be- tween Fachingen and Geilnau, are the castles of Balduinstein, built 1325, by a bishop of Treves, the most interesting object on the road ; and Schaumburg, once the residence of the princes of Anhalt-Bernburg, extinct since 1812, now belonging to the Archduke Stephen. A mile beyond Geilnau, and about 14 from Ems, is Holzappel (/ran, Bar), a small and uninteresting town, sur- rounded by fine mountains. On the road not far from it, close to the river, stand the ruins of the castle of Lauren- burg, the original residence of the Nas- sau family, who bore the name of Counts of Laurenburg down to the middle of the 12th cent. rt. Further on are the village of Obernhof, and the small but very per- fect old castle of Langenau, with its walls, gates, towers, and external for- tifications complete, but filled with vile modern buildings, seated on a flat which seems to have been once an island. 1. The ruined Abbey of Arnstein, standing conspicuous on the side of a mountain, opposite Langenau, presents a splendid and picturesque front to the gaze of the passenger. It was the feudal seat of a long line of counts, the last of whom, Louis of Amstein, having no son, married and portioned off his 7 daughters, dividing among tbem a part of his estates ; then converting his castle into a convent, he endowed it with the rest of his property, and finally became a monk himself. It is now a Penitentiary for Rom. Cath. Priests ! There are no remains of the original castle. The Church is entire ; its 2 towers date from 1359. When the Lahn is low, it is fordable opposite to Arnstein ; at other times those who come from Nassau must cross by the ferry at Obernhof, higher up. The road from Dietz to Ems, though bad, is practicable for post carriages, and is very picturesque. It does not, however, follow the course of the Lahn until a short distance from Obernhof, about 2 leagues from Nassau. By a steep ascent it reaches Holzappel ; thence, through a beech forest, it passes above Obernhof, and mounting to a great height, occupies the narrow neck of an isthmus between the deep glens of the Lahn and Weinahrbacb. Next passing Langenau and Arnstein it reaches 3-^ Nassau (Rte. 95). 1 Ems (p. 482). ROUTE 97. THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS, FROM WIES- BADEN TO FRANKFURT, BY EPPSTEIN, KONIGSTEIN, AND HOMBURO. The E. extremity of the Taunus chain of hills, though little known to English tourists, will well repay those who may be tempted to explore it. The district here referred to might be nearly included within a triangle drawn between the towns of Wiesbaden, Frankfurt, and Homburg. This part of the chain presents in its narrow pas- toral valleys, clear purling streams, and wooded heights, scenery of the utmost beauty, differing from that nearer to the Rhine in its character of sylvan solitude, and perhaps surpassing it in variety. Roads. — The post road from Wies- baden to Frankfurt passes considerably to the S. of these hills ; but that from Frankfurt to Limburg crosses them. There is a carriage road direct from Wiesbaden to Konigstein through Epp- stein, quite practicable even for a heavily laden German carriage, though it is bad in some places. The part between Nauroth and Bremthal is bad after wet weather. The other roads are scarcely practicable for an English carriage, though passable, with some difficulty, for a light German caleche. The best mode of exploring this coun- 504 ROUTE 97. EPPSTEIN. KONIGSTEEST. Sect. VIII. try is on horseback or on foot, as the beauties of many of its valleys will be lost to those who confine themselves to carriages and the high roads. Those who do not mind jolting over rough roads may indeed approach them in a country car, and then with the aid of a guide penetrate into their recesses on foot. Pedestrians may explore the finest parts of this fertile and picturesque hill-country district in 2 days, by adopt- ing the following course. Take the Taunus Railway (Bte. 99) to Hat- tersheim Stat., walk thence to Hofheim (2 m.), ascend to the chapel (^ hr.'s walk) to Eppstein (5 m.), visit the castle ; — to Konigstein (5 m.). In the evening explore the castle, and Falken- stein. Early next morning ascend the less and greater Feldberg (5 m.), then walk to the Altkonig (4 m.), back to Konigstein (4 m.), dine there. In the afternoon take the diligence to Soden, whence a branch railway runs to Hochst. (p. 507.) At Hattersheim a tolerable country road, but destitute of shade, turns off to the N.W., and leads to the pretty village of Hofheim (2 m.). The chapel on the height commands a view which will well repay the trouble of ascending to it. The valley of Lorsbach, above Hofheim, as far as Eppstein (5 m.), is very beautiful indeed. Eppstein (Inn, The Oil Mill), de- lightfully situated at the junction of 4 valleys. The wild and sequestered village is wedged in a narrow defile between rocks and mountains. The massy towers and donjons of the old baronial castle, perched like an eagle's nest on the most accessible point of rock, overhang it. The family of Eppstein seems nearly as old as that of Nassau ; many of its members were chancellors of the em- pire and archbishops of Mayence. One of them crowned the Empr. Fredk. Barbarossa, at Aix-la-Chapelle, and afterwards was made Patriarch of Jeru- salem. The line became extinct in the 16th cent. : several of their monuments still exist in the village Church. The Castle now belongs to a gentleman of taste and knowledge of antiquities, who takes care of it, and has planted the little terraces with flowers, and made every part accessible. The castle is cut off from the mountain by a deep dry trench, evidently artificial. Konigstein is about 6 m. N.E. from Eppstein ; the way thither lies through the pretty vale of Fischbach. " The whole landscape, the hanging woods, variously tinted by autumn, the jutting rocks, the sombre sequestered recesses in the glen, and the lonely stillness which pervaded the scene, sometimes reminded one of some of the least wild of Salvator's romantic scenes, or of the cool and lovely valleys of Gaspar Pous- sin." — Autumn near the Rhine. From Fischbach to Schneidhain the way lies across the open table-land — thence it ascends to Konigstein. — Inns : Post, or Stadt Amsterdam, good; the landlord has a trout stream : Lowe (Lion), which has a garden attached to it. This village is a post station on the high road from Frankfurt to Limburg. Above it, on the height, rises the ruined Castle of Konigstein, a modern fortress with bastions and casemates, engrafted on a feudal stronghold of the middle ages, with battlements and watch-towers. It belonged originally to the Counts of Falkenstein, and afterwards to the Barons of Eppstein; was taken by Grustavus Adolphus in the Thirty Years' War, and by the French, who dis- mantled it and blew up its works in 1796. There is a fine view from it over the valleys of the Main and Bhine, while the neighbouring castles of Falk- enstein and Kronberg are most pic- turesque objects in the foreground. An excellent carriage-road goes from Konigstein to Soden, whence there is a branch railway to the Hochst station on the Frankfurt and Mayence Bailway. Those who travel on foot, or who do not mind rough cross-roads, may con- tinue on to the Falkenstein, about a mile N.E. from Konigstein. This bold and picturesque ruin is an imposing relic of a feudal stronghold and baronial resi- dence of the days of chivalry, and the exquisite view from it renders it one of the most interesting points of the tour. It was the cradle (Stammhaus) of a Nassau. ROUTE 97. — GREAT FELDBERG. HOMBURG. 505 noble family named Nuringen, before it was added to the possessions of the house of Nassau. 3 m. S.E. of Konigstein lies the watering-place of Soden, well provided with lodging-houses : briue springs rise near it. There is a good road down the hill from Konigstein eastward to Kron- berg, 2 m., a village of about 1400 inhab., prettily situated, surrounded by orchards and nursery gardens. Here is another ruined Castle ; its owners, a knightly family, were engaged in con- stant feuds with the city of Frankfurt. A painting, still existing, represents a victory gained by its barons over the burghers of the free city. There is a mineral spring at Kronthal, a little farther on, to which people resort in summer ; and the Kurhaus affords good quarters. The Great Feldberg, the highest of the Taunus mountains, rises imme- diately to the N". of Falkenstein and Kronberg. The summit, 2600 ft. above the sea, is accessible for carriages, and is about 3 m. distant. It commands one of the most extensive panoramic views to be met with in N". Germany, including the Rhine and Main, the great cities and towns on their banks as far as Strasburg, whose spire is said to be visible in clear weather, and the mountain ranges of the Black Forest, Vosges, Mont Tonnerre, Odenwald, and Taunus. A huge fragment of quartz rock at the top of the Feldberg is called Brune- hilda's bed, from a tradition that a beautiful Frankish queen of that name took refuge here from her enemies. Upon the Altkonig (2400 ft.), the near- est neighbour S.E. and the mountain next in height to the Feldberg, are the remains of ancient entrenchments, made either by the Romans or by the abori- gines of this country. There is a direct road from Kronberg to Frankfurt; but the journey may be agreeably extended by continuing on- wards through a pretty country to Ober- Ursel, where the old church is curious, and thence to Homburg. — Inns : H. Maillard ; H. d'Angleterre, well situated; Hes- sischer Hof, moderate ; Hotel Quatre [N. G.] Saisons, new and large, with a table- d'hote at 5. 2nd class Inns : Goldener Adler ; Engel ; H. de Frankfurt. The rent of good lodgings in good situations varies from 15 to 20 florins per week for 3 or 4 rooms, and from 5 to 7 fl. for a single bedroom, from June to Sept. House -rent has risen considerably within the last few years. Homburg is a small town of 3500 inhab., prettily situated on an eminence in the midst of cultivation, and half surrounded by projections from the Taunus. The dis- covery of Mineral Springs, partly by boring Artesian wells,, has, within a few years, converted Homburg into a frequented watering-place. The waters are very valuable in cases of disordered liver and stomach. There are 5 springs : that of Elizabeth, compared with the Rakoczy at Kissingen, contains more carbonic acid than any other saline spa known, and on that account sits lightly on the dyspeptic stomach; the Stahl- brunnen, like the ferruginous water of Spa ; Kaiserbrunnen, similar to the Carlsbad water; Badequelle, a salt spring like that of Kreuznach ; and Ludwigs- brunnen. Dr. Prytherch is the resident English physician. On the strength of this some French speculators have built, at a cost of 20,000^., a Kurhaus, one of the most splendid in Germany, decorated in- ternally with frescoes and stucco work by artists from Munich. It contains halls, dining (table - d'hote at 2 and 5), coffee, and smoking rooms ; also a reading room, where English and foreign papers and periodicals are taken in. The real destination of the build- ing is as a gaming-house, that disgrace to the minor princes of Germany. Let those who are disposed to risk their money inquire what is the character of the managers, and be on their guard. The expenses of such an enormous and splendid establishment must be paid out of the pockets of travellers. About 50,000 florins are lost here annually by the public in play. By way of tickling the trouts, an admirable band, provided by the managers, plays thrice a day on the walks, and the establishment affords great accommodation to strangers. The chief building is the gloomy Z 506 ROUTE 98. INGELHEIM. Sect. VIIT. Palace of the Prince of Hesse Homburg, or Schloss. Its most conspicuous feature is a lofty detached tower in the prin- cipal court, resembling an old Scotch castle, a remnant of a former building. Over the inner gateway peers forth an equestrian figure of Prince Frederick of Hesse, who by a bold charge gained the victory of Fehrbellinn over the Swedes for the Great Elector of Brandenburg. It contains a collection of Roman an- tiquities dug up on the Saalburg, 3 m. off. The gardens immediately attached to the castle were tastefully laid out in the style of English pleasure-grounds, by the late Landgravine Elizabeth (daughter of George III.)? 'but are neg- lected and going to ruin. Between these and the foot of the Taunus extend a succession of flower - gardens and shrubberies on either side of the public road, itself an avenue of fine Lombardy poplars. Beyond this lies the Park, and on the slopes of the hills are many pleasant walks and drives cut in all directions through the woods and forests around, which clothe the sides of the Taunus ; so that the wanderer may penetrate for miles under the refreshing shade of the forest, and may at last find himself on the summit of some emi- nence, commanding the country far and wide. The salt-works of Nauheim, with the interesting boiling fountain, are distant 1^ hr.'s drive N.E. from Hom- burg. The road runs through Fried- berg. (See Rte. 70.) English Church Service every Sunday. Homburg is 9 m. from Frankfurt, p. 495. 8 or 10 omnibtises run daily to and fro, in 1^ hr. ROUTE 98. BINGEN TO MAYENCE, BY INGELHEIM. 3^- Germ. m. = 16 Eng. m. There are 2 roads from Bingen to Mayenee ; one along the rt. bank of the Rhine, the most interesting, but not a post-road, described in Rte. 38, and the following, on the 1. bank, but at some distance from the river side. Both are traversed daily by Schnellposts. On quitting Bingen, it skirts the base of the Rochusberg, and begins to ascend a long but gradual eminence. Near the top stands a small obelisk erected by the French, bearing the in- scription, " Route de Charlemagne, termine en l'an I. du regne de Napo- leon." From this point, and from the heights a little further on, the view is most charming, extending over the Rhine, through the whole of the Rhein- gau, as far as the distant range of the Taunus. In such a situation it was that Charlemagne built his favoiuite residence of 1^ Ingelheim, now reduced to a miserable village, about 1^ m. from the bank of the Rhine. Some writers suppose that it was the birthplace of Charlemagne ; at least he loved to dwell here, and built himself (768 to 774) a magnificent palace, which he decorated with 100 columns of marble and por- phyry, the spoils of Roman buildings, and with rich mosaics, sent to him by Pope Hadrian from Ravenna for that purpose. The site of the, edifice is now occupied by mud hovels and dung- heaps, and partly by a Jew's burying- groxvnd. It stood near the smaller of the two churches — the one nearest to Mayenee ; and the only relics remain- ing of it are a few mutilated fragments of pillars within the church, and a column of granite inserted in a comer of an old ruined gateway. In the church is also shown the monument of one of Charlemagne's 4 queens, a rudely carved stone, on which a female figure, crowned and in regal attire, is discernible. The ornaments round the stone in the pointed style indicate clearly that it is of a much later time than the reign of Charlemagne. These paltry fragments, and a few mouldering walls, are all that remain to tell where the palace of the great King stood. — The other church, on the side of Bingen, with a tall square tower, is an inte- resting example of the Romanesque. style. The red wine of Ingelheim is very tolerable. 2 Mayexce (Rte. 38). ROUTE 99. MAYENCE TO FRANKFURT. — RAILWAY. 4^ Germ. m. 204 Ens. m. This Railroad, the Taunus-BaJm, opened in 1840, is a single line, double Nassau. ROUTE 100. — VALE OF THE NAHE. 507 only in places to allow the trains to pass each, other. The Terminus is in Castel, opposite to Mayence, on the rt. bank of the Rhine. (Inn, Bahrdt's.) Omnibuses ply to and fro for 12 kr. The branch line to Wiesbaden (6 trains daily, in 16 min.) is carried right through the fortifications of Castel, passes fort Montebello to Mosbach Stat., whence a branch line (for horses) leads to Biebrich on the Rhine. Trains go 6 times a-day in 1^ h. to Frankfurt. Fare in the second class (Diligences') (there is a better class somewhat more expensive), 1^ fl., including 40 lbs. of baggage. Any quantity above that pays at a very extravagant rate, viz. 5 fl. for 300 lbs. The transport of a private carriage is 6^ fl. A bridge-toll (briickengeld) of 30 kr. is paid for a carriage with 2 horses, in crossing the bridge of boats from Mayence to Castel. Castel belongs to Hesse Darmstadt ; but a little way out of the walls 2 painted posts, by the road-side, mark the frontier of Nassau. The railway is carried at first along the rt. bank of the Main, along the slope of the vineyards. About 4 m. on the road is Hochheim Stat., a village on the summit of a hill of moderate elevation. In its immediate vicinity, and along the sunny banks sloping down to the Main, for a space of 3 m., are the vine- yards which produce the wine called Hooky — a name improperly given by the English to Rhenish wines. The best wine is grown in the vineyards below the church, which are sheltered from cold winds by the houses of the town. They were anciently the pro- perty of the Chapter of Mayence, but now belong to the Duke of Nassau, and are highly valuable. The narrow strip of ground upon which the rail- way passes through them was very costly. Florsheim Stat. 2^ Hattersheim Stat. (Nassauer Hof); this is the starting-place for an ex- cursion to the Taunus Mountains (Rte. 97). Hochst Stat, on the Nidda, which is crossed by a bridge. The chief building in it is the deserted Palace of Bolongaro, a rich tobacconist, erected in the last cent. At Hochst there is a very old Church. Railway from this to Sodcn (3 m.) at the foot of the Taunus, and diligence thence to Konigstein. (Rte. 97.) The Feldberg, the highest of the range, and the Castle of Falken- stein at its foot, are visible near this. The boundary of the territory of Frank- furt is marked by an ancient watch- tower on the post-road to the 1. 2 Frankfurt-a-M. (Rte. 95.) Ter- minus, outside the St. Gallus Thor. ROUTE 100. THE VALE OF THE NAHE. — BINGEN TO KREUZNACH AND SAARBRiiCK. 19f Germ. m. == 91 Eng. m. A post-road, macadamised. Schnell- posts daily to Saarbriick by Kreuznach and Birkenfeld in 16 hrs. To Treves daily in 14^ hrs. Omnibuses 6 times a-day between Bingen and Kreuznach for 10 sgr. The most beautiful scenery of the Nahe is confined to the vicinity of Kreuznach and Oberstein. A car- riage with 2 horses may be hired from Bingen to Kreuznach and back in 1 day (26 m.), for 7 or 8 fl., including the drive to Munster-am-Stein (2^ m. beyond Kreuznach), in order to visit the Rheingrafenstein. Omnibus fre- quently to Kreuznach. The Nahe pours itself into the Rhine at Bingen, through a portal formed by the Rochusberg on the rt. side, and the Rupertsberg on the 1., after a course of scarcely 60 m., during which it bathes the territories of 5 different sovereigns — Oldenburg, Hesse Homburg, Prussia, Bavaria, and Hesse Darmstadt. The road runs along the 1. bank of the Nahe, which is Prussian ; the rt. belongs to Darmstadt : it passes the villages of Miinster, Laubenheim, and Brezenheim, before it reaches 2 Kreuznach (Inns: Oranienhof; Englischer and Pariser Hof; Rhein- stein ; Pfalzer Hof; Adler ; Dheil's lodging-house, well-conducted), a poor though populous town of 9000 inhab. belonging to Prussia, in a picturesque situation, which has lately risen into great repute as a watering-place, so Z2 508 ROUTE 100. KREUZNACH. EBERNBURG. Sect. VIII. that the accommodation is scarcely adequate to the number of visitors. Kreuznach is much resorted to on ac- count of its cold Saline Spring, situated on an island i m. above the town. A careful analysis has discovered the ex- istence in the water of iodine and bro- mine in small quantities. It has been found singularly beneficial in scrofu- lous cases, and the resort to it is rapidly increasing ; the number of visitors ex- ceeds 3000 annually. A Kurhaus and Baths are erected near it within a grove of acacias, and an avenue of poplars leads to the spot. There are also brine baths here. The ruined choir of the Ch., near the bridge, is picturesque and of a good style (date 1332). A good view of Kreuznach may be had from the pleasure-ground on the top of the Schlossberg. In 1632 Kreuznach was taken by assault by the troops of Gus- tavus Adolphus. A party of English volunteers serving under him was most instrumental in its capture. The attack was led by Lord Craven, the champion of the Queen of Bohemia ; and not only he, but every English officer present, was wounded on this occasion. Bookseller. — Jugel, of Frankfurt, has a shop here. Physician. — Dr. Schweich, who speaks English. There is a carriage-road hence to the top of the Rheingrafenstein, on the rt, bank of the Nahe, which commands a fine view up the river, and may be reached in ^ an hour's time. 2 m, above Kreuznach, on the 1. bank of the Nahe, are the Salinen, or Saltworks, of Theodorshalle ; and on the rt. bank those of Karlshalle, be- longing to the Grand Duke of Darm- stadt. They consist of a collection of very long sheds, filled with faggots, through which the salt water is made to trickle, after being raised by pumps, in order to evaporate it, and convert it into saturated brine, fit for the boiling- house. The springs naturally contain but 1-| per cent, of saline particles, which require to be raised to 26 or 28 per cent, to convert it into saturated brine. 1 m, further (3 m. from Kreuz- nach) is another extensive saline, tailed Munster-am-Stein, built on a flat, nearly encircled by the jNahe, at the foot of the magnificent precipice of red porphyry 600 ft. high, which is crowned by the Castle of Rheingraf en- stein, an ancient stronghold of the Bheingraves, destroyed by the French in 1689. It is literally perched, like an eagle's nest, on a pinnacle of the rock, and is accessible from the salt- works by a ferry and a very steep foot- path, but more easily by descending upon it from the hill above. From a neighboxiring and still higher peak, called the Gans (Goose), the best view over the Nahe is obtained. [A little above the Eheingrafenstein, at the junction of the Alsenz with the Nahe, rises Ebernburg, a castle which belonged to Franz of Sickingen, the last of the knights errant, the terror of "Worms and Frankfurt, who, though but a simple knight, besieged the cities of Metz and Treves with an army of 2000 horse and 17,000 foot, bidding defiance to the Emperor. In this stronghold he sheltered from persecu- tion many of the early Eeformers, who were his bosom friends. Melancthon, Bucer, and CEcolampadius, took refuge here under his roof; and Ulric von Hutten composed several of his works in this retreat. Its defences were so much augmented and strengthened, that it was thought capable of bidding defiance even to the armies of the em- pire. After Sickingen' s death, how- ever, his castle, though stoutly defended at first, was at length surrendered to the Electors of Hesse and of Treves, who carried off all the spoils, and then burnt it. The valley of the Alsenz con- tains some picturesque scenes and se- veral ruined castles. Inns : Muller's at Alsenz ; and Horster's (very fair) at Dielkirchen, 9 m. from the top of the Donnersberg (p. 510). Near Ober- moschel is the quicksilver-mine of Landsberg, now unproductive. Be- tween Obermoschel and Meissenheim there are coal-mines, which extend all the way from the Glan to the borders of the Alsenz ; the quicksilver is also situated in the coal formation.] During the next stage from Kreuz- nach the road quits the side of the Nahe, and, leaving these castles and Nassau. KOUTE 100. — OBERSTEIN. SAARBRUCKEN. 509 the salt-works considerably on the 1., proceeds direct to Sobernheim, passing on the rt. of the Castle and Abbey of Sponheim, the cradle of one of the no- blest and most ancient families on the Ithine. 1. near Staudernheim lie the exten- sive ruins of the convent of Dissibo- denberg. A little below Sobernheim the Nahe receives the waters of the Glan. 2 ~ Sobernheim (Inns : Post ; Adler), an old town, pop. 2300. In the 10th cent, the inhabitants, aided by the Pope, who granted them an indulgence for 2 years, built a bridge over the Nahe ; since then the river has changed its bed, and left the bridge on dry land. ■ At Martinstein a basin-shaped valley opens out, at whose extremity rise the majestic ruins of the Castle of Dhaun, commanding a fine view. A path leads down from them, past the village of Dhaun and Johannisberg, into the Naho valley again. Below Johannis- berg a wild gorge opens out, through which a road runs to 1\ Kirn. — Inns: Eheinlander;"Wittwe Doll. The scenery from the Castle of Dhaun to Oberstein is magnificent, and will well repay the toilsome jour- ney from Krcuznach. 2-^ Oberstein (Inns : Post ; Caesar) is one of the dirtiest small towns it is possible to conceive. "It is very picturesque from its old ruined wooden buildings, and beautifully situ- ated on the Nahe, shut in by high and romantic cliffs, chiefly of porphyry or amygdaloid, abounding in agates, ame- thysts, &c, of great beauty and variety. The business of cutting and polishing them occupies a considerable number of the inhabitants. The stones are ground and polished by means of grind- ing-stones of red sandstone, moved by water-wheels in numerous small mills scattered along the neighbouring streams. There are large polishing mills at Idar, l^m. off. Close to Ober- stein are 2 fine precipitous isolated rocks. On the summit of each are re- mains of an ancient castle ; one still inhabited by peasants, the other quite a ruin. Immediately under the latter, in the face of the precipice, about | of its height above the valley, a large cavity has been hollowed out, in which the ancient Lutheran church, may be said to be embedded."— T. T. It is approached by stairs cut in the rock. The living rock forms the roof and one side of the building ; the other side is built up with a wall of masonry, in which are 2 large windows to light the interior. A spring of water gushes out of the floor. The agate manufactory is not so pro- fitable as formerly ; but the locality is interesting to the mineralogist, as, in addition to very fine and large agates, he will here be enabled to collect many other rare minerals and crystals, as chabasite, harmotome, &c. Oberstein belongs to the distant duchy of Oldenburg. The territory on the opposite side of the river for- merly belonged to Saxe Coburg, but has been sold to Prussia. The vale of the Nahe loses its beauty and interest above Oberstein. The road continues excellent. 2^ Birkenfeld (Inn, kept by Widow Medicus) is the chief town of the principality of that name, belonging to Oldenburg, and contains a plain white- washed Ducal Chateau. [A hilly, but well macadamised road, provided with post-horses, leads over the bleak high land of the Hochwakl, from Birkenfeld, by Hermeskeil (a straggling village, containing nothing remarkable), 3 Germ m., to Troves, 4 Germ. m. = about 32 Eng. m.] 3^ St. "Wendel. A fine Church here. 1| Ottweiler. Friedrichsthal. At Duttweiler, about 3 Eng. m. X. of Saarbrucken, is a seam of coal which has been on fire for 1 40 years. It is called " der brennende Berg." 4 Saarbrucken or Saarbriick (Inns : Post ; Bar), a Prussian town of 8000 inhab. on the Saar, which here begins to be navigable, and is crossed by a bridge connecting the town with the suburb of St. Johann. The Schloss was, down to 1793, the residence of the Princes of Nassau- Saarbrucken ; and in the Schlosskirche are some monu- ments of them. There are several coal- mines in the neighbourhood. About 510 ROUTE 100. — SAARBRUCK TO TREVES. Sect, VIII. 2 m. S. of Saarbriicken, and higher up the valley of the Saar, is Arnual, with a fine Gothic church (1315), in which are some remarkable monuments of the Nassau-Saarbriicken family. Schnellposts daily, by Metz to Paris ; by Saarlouis, Merzig, and Saarburg, to Mainz ; _ and to Kreuznach. Steam- boats run daily between Saarbriicken and Saarlouis. Railway by Kaiserslautem to Mann- heim, Ete. 103. KOUTE 100 a. SAARBR0CK TO TREVES, BY SAARLOUIS. 12£ Germ. m. = 56j Eng. m. Schnell- post daily in 10 hrs. The road from Saarbriicken (see Ete. 100) to Treves descends the b eautful valley of the Saar. 3-^ Saarlouis {Inns : Eheinischer Hof ; Salm), a strong frontier fortress of Prussia, with a long stone bridge over the Saar, which flows half round the town, and sometimes during the winter lays part of it under water. The forti- fications, constructed by Yauban, in the course of 1 year, for a bet with Louis XIV., may be inundated by sluices. One of the barracks contains an Artesian well. Its name was changed during the first French revo- lution to Sarrelibre. The inhab. (7000) are partly descended from English prisoners placed here by Louis XIV. It is the birthplace of Marshal Ney, whose father's house is marked by a tablet. By the peace of Eyswyk, France was left in possession of Saar- louis, but it was transferred to Prussia by the treaties of 1814-15. 2^ Merzig. At about one-third of the way between this place and Saarburg, at Mettlach, was a Benedictine abbey, founded in the 7th cent., now a pottery. The ruins of a castle Montclair peer down upon the valley from an almost inaccessible cliff. The Saar is crossed by a ferry, and the road ascends. About 3 m. before reaching Saarburg, and off the road near the river, is Castel, in a lofty position, originally a Eoman castle, repaired in 1838 by the present King of Prussia as a chapel in which to bury the remains of King John of Bohemia, only son of the Emp. Henry VII., who was killed in the battle of Crecy, 1346. 3 J Saarburg {Inns: Funck's ; Post), a small town, placed in a pretty open- ing of the valley of the Saar, where the small stream called the Leuk falls into it. There is a waterfall on the Leuk, near some picturesque ruins of a Castle. The Saar is crossed near its junction with the Moselle at Conz ; date of bridge, 1782. Ausonius alludes to a very old one on this spot. " Qua bis terna fre- munt scopulosis ostiapilis." Near here are scanty remains of a summer palace of the Lower Empire. The Monument of Lyel is passed a little further on. 3 Treves (Ete. 41). EOTJTE 101. KAISERSLAUTERN. 21^ Germ. m. and 7f French posts = 146 Eng. m. Diligence daily in 34 hrs. ; mallepost in less. This road was made by Napoleon, to open a direct communication be- tween Mayence and Paris, and thence is called the Imperial road (Kaiser Strasse) . 1^ Niederolm. 1^ Worrstadt. 1?§ Alzei (Inns : Darmstadter Hof; Poste ; zum Kaiser), a "very ancient town (3500 inhab.), known to the Bo- mans as Altiaia. The Castle, an ex- tensive ruin, was destroyed by the French in 1689. The road quits Hesse Darmstadt and enters Bavaria at the village of Morschheim. 1^ Kirchheim Boland (Inn, Poste), a town of 3200 inhab., having iron- works in its vicinity. [The Mont Tonnerre (Donnersberg), is about 6 m. distant. The road leaves it on the rt., winding roimd its bWse. It is mentioned by Tacitus, who calls it Mons Jovis. During the French do- mination it gave the name to a De- partment, of which Mayence was the chief town. The mountain is 2090 Par. ft. above the s6a, and is composed of porphyry. On the plateau at the top is a farm-house, once an old convent, Darmstadt. ROUTE 102. — MAYENCE TO STRASBURG. 511 which affords humble accommodation. It is encircled by a wall, whose origin is unknown, though it is supposed to be Roman. The best view is obtained from the point called Hirtenfels, or from the signal tower which was erected for a trigonometrical survey, but it is not so fine as that from the Melibocus on the opposite side of the Ehine.] 1J Standebiihl. 2 m. E. of Dreisen lies Gollheim (Inn, Hirsch), where the Empr. Adol- phus of Nassau was slain by the lance of his rival the Empr. Albert, 1 298 ; a stone cross under an open chapel marks the spot. 2i Sembach. The Ch. of Otterberg, a little to the N.W. of Sembach, is a beautiful Gothic structure, begun by the Empr. Conrad II., 1040, but com- pleted at a much later period. 1^ Kaiserslautern (Inns : Donners- berg, very good ; Baierischer Hof, dear ; Post), a town of 6500 inhab., in a very pretty situation. Its antiquity is very great. The Empr. Barbarossa built a strong castle here, which was destroyed by the French in the "War of the Suc- cession, and a prison now occupies its place. Three successive engagements took place near this in 1793-94, be- tween the French and Germans, in which the last gained some advantage. There are considerable woollen manu- factories here. Railway to Homburg, Mannheim, and Saarbriick, called the Pfalzer - Ludwigsbahn. It connects Mannheim and the coal-mines of Bex- bach, near Homburg. 2 Landstuhl Stat. (Inns : Engel ; Baierische Krone ; Post), a town of 1500 inhab., which formerly belonged to the Counts of Sickingen, whose Castle in ruins overhangs the town ; its walls are 24 ft. thick, and many of its chambers are hewn out of the rock. The brave and chivalrous Franz of Sickingen, the Cid and Bayard of Germany, the friend of Luther and of Gotz of Berlichingen, lost his life in it, in a bold struggle to defend it from the besieging forces of his deadly and powerful enemies, the Bishop of Treves and the Elector of Hesse. His death was caused by a heavy beam de- tached by a cannon-ball from the roof, which fell on him and crushed him. He was buried under the altar of the Catholic church, where his monument, mutilated by the French, may still be seen. 1^ Bruchmuhlbach Stat. 1^ Homburg Stat (Inn, Karlsberg), a town of 284-0 inhab. The fortress upon the Schlossberg, celebrated in the history of the Thirty Years' War, was razed 1714. 2 Rohrbach. At Renderich is the Bavarian fron- tier. 2 Saarbrucken, Prussian. In p. 509. 1^ Forbach is the first place within the French frontier. 2f St. Avoid. 2 Foligny. I Courcelles Chaussy. II Metz (Inn, H. des Victoires), half way from Frankfurt to Paris. See Handbook for France. ROUTE 102. THE RHINE (E). MAYENCE TO STRAS- BURG, BY WORMS, MANNHEIM, AND SPIRES. The Rhine, above Mayence, loses all its beauty ; the wide plain through which it flows, bounded by the very distant chains of the Vosges and Hardt on the W., and the Odenwald and Black Forest on the E., is as dull and nearly as flat as Holland. The river does not fall more than 22 ft. between Spires and Mannheim. A railway is in progress (?) from Mayence to Ludwigshafen, opposite to Mannheim. The following route by the side of the Rhine passes through the territory of Hesse as far as Worms, thence through Rhenish Bavaria to Mann- heim ; it conducts the traveller through the ancient Imperial cities of Worms and Spires, so interesting in an histo- rical point of view, and so dull and desolate in their present state. Those who prefer pretty scenery should take the Rte. by Darmstadt and the Berg- strasse (R. 105). Whichever Rte. is followed, the traveller should not omit to visit Heidelberg and Baden. 512 ROUTE 102. NIERSTEIN. OPPENHEIM. Sect. VIIT. Steamers ascend the Khine from Mayence to Mannheim twice a-day, in 6 lirs., returning in 4; from Mann- heim to Strasburg daily in 20 hrs., stopping at Daxlanden or Leopolds- hafen to let out passengers for Carls- ruhe. The steamer descends from Stras- hurg in 7 hrs. to Mannheim, in 2 days to Cologne, stopping the first night at Mannheim or Mayence ; and the best boats reach Rotterdam from Mayence in 36 hrs. The river winds very much in this part of its course, and the ascending voyage is tedious, slow, and disagree- able. Of late years many canals have been formed across the isthmuses created by the turns of the river, and thus its course is being shortened. This ren- ders the steam-voyage quicker. Still it is preferable to travel upwards by railway. Eilwagen daily from Mayence to Mannheim ; thence by rail to Heidel- berg, &c. The direct road by the banks of the Rhine from Spires to Strasburg is given here, for the benefit of those who travel by steam ; but there is no inducement to follow it in a car- riage. The E. bank of the Rhine, along which the road runs from Mayence, is at first a succession of gentle hills planted with profitable vineyards, the best among them being those of Bo- denheim and Lauhenheim. The soil of the low ground of the Rhine valley, all the way to Switzerland, is fertile in the extreme. 1. Nierstein {Inn, Anker), a small town of 2200 inhab., gives its name to a very good second-class wine, pro- duced in the surrounding vineyards. The Sironahad, near Nierstein, was known to the Romans : not far from it, at the Yellow House Inn, is a flying bridge over the' Rhine. The Chapel of the family v. Herding is decorated with frescoes by Gotzenberger, a mo- dern artist, representing the Adoration of the Shepherds — the Coronation of the Virgin — penitent Magdelen — "Faith, ' Hope, and Charity. 2J 1. Oppenheim. — Inn : Zum Gelben Hause (the Yellow House), mentioned above, outside the town, tolerable. On a hill to the KV. of this town (of 2400 inhab.), under the stately ruins of the ancient Imperial Castle of Landskron, stands the Ch. of St. Catherine, a build- ing worthy to arrest the attention of all who pass this way. It is a pure ex- ample of the Gothic style, displaying at the same time the utmost richness of decoration consistent with elegance and propriety. The towers are in the style of the 12th cent. ; the nave and E. chancel, begun 1262 by Richard of Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, were completed in 1317 ; the "W. chancel, now a ruin, in 1439. The nave is re- markable for its lightness and beauty ; the painted glass of the windows must have been splendid ; in one of them it still remains nearly perfect. Some of them have a species of fan-shaped tra- cery. The rose window is one of the finest specimens in Germany, and most elaborate in its tracery. There are some curious monuments in the church of the Dalbergs and Riedesels, a family of the Wetterau, who bore asses' ears for their crest ; but, like the painted win- dows, the}' - are sadly mutilated ; indeed it is melancholy to see what was once so fine a building, and still possesses so much beauty, fallen into such a state of decay and neglect. The roof of the nave is gone, and within its walls is a wilderness of grass and weeds. These injuries owe their origin to the French, who burnt down a part of the church during the war of the Palatinate. It has happily undergone some repair re- cently, at the expense of the town ; its complete restoration is out of the ques- tion, as it has been left too long to go to decay, and the Grand Duke lends no assistance to the praiseworthy under- taking. A ruined chapel within the church- yard is half filled with the skulls and bones of Swedes and Spaniards, who fell here in battle, 1631, champions of the cause of Protestantism and Popery. rt. Gustavus Adolphus recorded his passage of the Rhine, in the winter of Dec. 7, 16ol, by a monument on the rt. bank at Erfclden, a little above Oppenheim, but not seen from the steamer, which traverses an artificial Darmstadt. ROUTE 102. — WORMS. CATHEDRAL. 513 cut. It consists of a pillar with a lion on the top. The Swedes crossed the Rhine singing a psalm ; and there is a tradition that their sovereign and leader was ferried over on a ham door. The field of hattle still goes hy the name of the Spaniards' churchyard, from the number of bones found in it. The road now quits the borders of the river, which winds exceedingly. A canal, cut across an isthmus formed by its bendings, saves the boatmen a circuit of several miles. rt. At Gernsheim {Inn, Lamm, Karpfen), on the rt. bank of the Rhine, a colossal statue of sandstone, 12 ft. high, of Peter Schoffer, the partner of Faust in the discovery of printing (1457), who was born here, has been qj ected, and is fresh painted every year on his birthday! Omnibus to Darm- stadt, fare 30 kr. The latter part of this stage from Oppenhcim to Worms is dreary. The election of an Empr. of Germany (1024), which ended in the choice of Conrad II. (the Salic), was held on the great plain between Oppenheim and Gunters- blum : the various German races, who had a voice, encamped on either side of the Rhine, no city being large enough to hold them. 1. Immediately below "Worms, out- side the walls, though once included within them, is the Gothic Ch. of Our Lady (Liebe Frau), date 1467. It is situated within the vineyard which produces the pleasant 2nd-class wine called after it Liebfrauenmilch (our Lady's milk). On each side of its entrance are curious carvings repre- senting the Wise and Foolish Virgins. The steamer brings to off Worms ; the town is about 1 m. distant from the Rhine, which anciently washed its walls. It is partly concealed from view by trees. Inn on the Rhine, Rheinischer Hof, near the Crane. 1. 2| Worms. — Inns: Post or Schwan; Weisses Ross. A little more than 8000 inhab. (2500 Rom. Cath., 1000 Jews) is the actual amount of the pop, of Worms, which once contained 30,000. It still retains its old Walls, flanked at intervals by handsome and massive towers, probably of the 13th cent. This once important Imperial Free City is still venerable even in its decay from historical associations connected with it, such as few other cities in Europe can boast of. It was called by the Romans Augusta Vangionum and Borbetomagus. In the times succeeding their dominion it was the residence of many Frankish and Carlovingian kings ; Charlemagne himself was married here, and held, near Worms, those rude legislative assemblies of the Franks, called, from the month in which they were con- voked, Mai Lager (Champs de Mai). Worms was the seat of many Diets of the German Empire : two of them are particularly important in the his- tory of Europe ; that of 1495, which, by abolishing the right of private war (Faustrecht) , first established order in Germany; and that of 1521, when Luther appeared before the young Empr., Charles V., and the assembled princes, to declare his adhesion to the Reformed doctrines, which the Diet finally declared to be heretical. Since the infamous burning and demolition of Worms by the incendiary Melac (1689), the ruffian instrument of Louis XIV. and Louvois, the city has never regained its prosperity, The only fine edifice in the town is the Domkirche or Cathedral ; — a plain and massive building of red sandstone, begun 996, finished 1016, in the Byzan- tine or round-arched style. A part of the E. end fell down 1018, and the church was consecrated anew by Bp. Eppo, 1110, a fact which would seem to mark a renovation or reconstruction of the previous edifice. The pointed arch makes its appearance in the W. end of the nave, which is more modern. It has 2 towers at each end, and within has 2 choirs and 2 high altars, one for the chapter, the other for the laity. The chancel ends in a semiroctagon. The interior, 470 ft, long, has been re» paired in a very gaudy style, The side chapels date from the 14th and 15th cent, On the S, side is a magnificent pointed portal, whose sculptures deserve examination, date 1472, In the chapel of St. Nicholas are placed some remarkable mediaeval sculptures (date 1487), re- z3 514 ROUTE 102.— THE RHINE. WORMS. Sect. VIII. moved from the cloister, now destroyed : they represent, 1. the Annunciation; 2. the Nativity ; 3. the Genealogical Tree of the Virgin; 4. the Descent from the Cross ; 5. the Resurrection. The traces of faded painting on the walls and piers are curious, as being among the earliest productions of Ger- man art. In the baptistery and chapel close to the S. door 1. are many grave- stones, with figures in relief, of good work. The red stone walls to the N. of the Dom are substructions of the ancient Bischofshof, destroyed by the French in 1 689, and again in 1794. In it was held the diet of 1521, at which Luther appeared before Charles V. Some have incorrectly supposed that this event occurred in the Rathhaus, which stood where the Lutheran church now stands, in the market-place, and in which a poor picture representing the Diet is hung up. The "W. end and choir of St. Paul's Ch. are interesting for the antiquity and beauty of their architecture. They date probably from the year 1016 ; the rest of the church is recent. The Synagogue is said to be more than 800 years old, and certainly displays in its structure the style of the 11th cent. : 2 doorways, and a circular build- ing (Thora) for. holding the books of the law, deserve the architect's atten- tion. The Jews have been established in this spot from a very early period, and enjoyed privileges denied them in most other parts of Germany. The country round Worms was the favourite theme of the Minnesanger, who speak of it under the name of "Wonnegau (Land of Joy). It is partly the scene of the Nibelungenlied ; * and the island facing the Rheinischer Hof * This fine old German poem was written towards the litter end of the 12th century, but the traditions on which it is founded appear to have been handed down, probably in popular lays, from very remote times, and to have been common to all the tribes (German, Saxon, and Scandinavian) of the Teutonic race. No less than 20 poems of the Edda, which, as it has been satisfactorily shown, must have been composed prior to the year 863, contain the same tragical *tory of the mythic-heroic per- sonages who figure iu the Nibelungen. For a description of the frescoes painted by Schnorr to illustrate this German, or rather Teutonic Iliad, see Handbook for S. Germany, Rte. 166. is called Fosengarten, a name which often occurs in the Heldenbuch. Near Pfiffligheim stands Luther's Elm Tree, under which the reformer is" re- ported to have reposed on his way to the Diet, when, in reply to the warn- ings of friends who wished to deter him, he said that he " would go to "Worms, even though there were as many devils within its walls as there were tiles on its houses." At Hernsheim, about 2 m. out of the town, are the Chateau and Park of the Dalberg family, and a church of the 14th cent., containing several of their monuments. N. B. — Travellers proceeding down the Rhine, and acquainted with its scenery between Mayence and Bingen, may vary their route in an agreeable manner, and avoid going twice over the same ground, by leaving the Rhine at "Worms and proceeding through an in- teresting country by Alzei (p. 510), 3 Germ. m. to Kreuznach on the Nahe (p. 507), 3f Germ. m. — road excellent, but hilly. The beautiful scenery of the Nahe is described in Rte. 100 : they should ascend it as far as Oberstein, and may then either return to the Rhine at Bingen, or proceed on by Birkenfeld to Treves, whence they may descend the Moselle to Coblenz. As far as "Worms both banks of the Rhine belong to Darmstadt. A few miles above it commenee the territories of Baden on the rt. bank, and of Rhenish Bavaria on the 1., across which our road lies. The road passes — 1 . Frankenthal {Inn, Rother Lowe), originally a colony of Flemings, driven out of their country by religious persecution in 1562, who introduced manufactures not before known in Germany, and raised this small town by their industry to a state of great prosperity. It was held for some months in 1622-23 by the scanty English force under Sir Horace Yere, sent over by James I. to support the cause of his son-in-law the Elector Palatine : but neither in number nor in the skill of their commander were they fit to cope with a veteran general like Spinola, to whom and his army of " tough old blades" they were opposed, and they were accordingly obliged to Baden. ROUTE 102. — THE RHINE. MANNHEIM. 515 surrender the town to the Spaniards It has now 5000 inhah. A canal con- nects it with the Shine. At Griin- stadt, a few miles N.W. of Frankenthal, the painter Holbein is believed to have been born. 2 1. Oggersheim. Tun, Pfalzer Hof. rt. The Neckar enters the Rhine ahout J m. helow Mannheim. A bridge of boats over the Ehine leads from (1.) Ludwigshafen, the beginning of a new town, into Mannheim. A Railway con- nects Ludwigshafen with Spires and with the coal-mines of Bexbach, in the neighbourhood of Saarbriick, by Kaiser- slautern and Homburg. (Ete. 103.) Ludwigshafen was much injured during the defence of Mannheim m the insur- rection of June 1849. The landing- place of the steamer is just below the bridge of boats, ~ m. distant from the town, where the bonding warehouses (Freihaferi), a handsome building by Hiibsch, have been erected at the water- side. 1^ Mannheim. Inns: H. de 1' Eu- rope (dear), close to the landing-place of the steamers, with a noble Saal and 100 bed-rooms of all sizes, from 1 fl. upwards (servants 24 kr. daily) ; La Cour du Palatinat (Pfalzer Hof), in the town, very good ; Russischer Hof ; Rheinischer Hof. The situation of this town, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, and between it and the Neckar, is low and somewhat damp. A high dyke protects it from inunda- tions. The Rhine here, at 317 Eng. m. from the sea, is 1200 ft. in breadth. Mannheim was formerly the capital of the Palatinate, and has about 24,000 inhab. Nearly 300 English reside here, chiefly on account of the cheapness of living and of the agreeable society, to which the presence of the amiable Grand Duchess Stephanie and her court adds a charm. It was once strongly fortified, and was in consequence several times ruined and twice literally reduced to ashes and levelled with the dust by sieges and bombardments — first in the Thirty Years' "War, afterwards by the French in the war of the Orleans suc- cession. It did not exist as a town till after 1606, and, within a century, was twice rebuilt, after which it was again bombarded by the French in 1794, and by the Austrians in 1795 ; indeed, from the first moment of its existence it ap- pears to have been an object of struggle. The French general who took the town in 1689 called the townspeople together and informed them that it was the un- alterable determination of his master, Louis le Grand, to raze Mannheim with the ground ; but, as a special favour, he would intrust the work of destruction to themselves, and would allow them 20 days to complete the work, As the inhab. could not bring themselves to put into execution this diabolical sen- tence, the duty was performed by the soldiers, who drove out the lingering tenants, set fire to the houses, blew up the fortifications and churches. During the siege of 1795 half of the palace was burnt, and only 14 houses remained un- injured — 26,000 cannon-balls and 1780 ' bombs were thrown. At length the French garrison of 9700 men surren- dered to General "Wurmser. Fortunately for its future welfare it is now defenceless, owing to the removal of its ramparts. To the cause stated above the modern town owes its present rectangular and monotonous regularity. It consists of 11 straight streets, crossed by 10 other streets at right angles to them, and at equal distances, an arrangement which renders it difficult for a stranger to dis- tinguish one part of the town from another. " The streets are not named, and the system by which houses are identified is so singular that it merits explanation. Each block of houses is distinguished in the following manner : The town is divided into two parts by the great street leading from the palace to the suspension bridge over the Neckar. The first row of blocks of houses parallel to this street, on each side, is numbered 1 ; the second row of blocks of houses on each side, parallel to the first, is numbered 2, and so on. But taking the blocks in cross rows,on one side of the above-mentioned great street, the row nearest to the palace is lettered A, the second B, and so on ; and on the other side the street, the row nearest the palace is lettered L, the second M, and so on. Thus a letter and a figure are necessary to de-" 516 ROUTE 102. — MANNHEIM. SCHWETZINGEN. Sect. VIII. fine any block of houses. In each block the houses are numbered 1, 2, 3, &c. Thus in looking in the Mannheim Directory for a person's residence, you will find (for instance) C 3, 6. This means No. 6 in the block which is de- fined by the mark C 3. The letter C shows in which row of blocks it is as taken one way, and the figure 3 shows in which row of blocks it is as taken the other way." — G. B. A. In the public squares are fountains which want only water to render them useful as well as ornamental; indeed, good water is scarce here. The town is remarkable for its cleanliness. Go the calls it " Das freundliche, reinliche Mannheim." Mannheim does not possess many ob- jects of interest, and need not detain a traveller long. The principal building is the Palace, a huge structure of red sandstone, more remarkable for size than architecture, erected by the Elector Palatine Karl Philip, when he removed his court from Heidelberg and made Mannheim his capital (1720).. A Theatre in one wing, which was reduced to a mere shell by the Austrian bombardment, has been re- paired and rebuilt, A part of the palace is inhabited by the Dowager Grand Duchess of Baden, Stephanie, and another wing serves as a Museum to contain the Gallery of Paintings, the majority of which, except some specie mens of the Dutch school, are very mediocre ; a Collection of Plaster Casts, and a Cabinet of Natural History, with some good .specimens of minerals and fossils. The best part of all the Mann- heim collections were transferred to Munich in 1778. The Gardens behind the palace, end- ing in a raised terrace (Bheindamm) upon the brink of the Rhine, are a de- lightful walk. The Planken, a broad street, planted with trees, between the Heidelberg and Rhine gates, is another promenade of the inhab. The private gardens along the banks of the Neckar are a great ornament to the outskirts of the town. A pretty chain bridge has been thrown across the Neckar, If we except the Jesuits' Church, which, after all, is not of first-rate archi- tecture, and, though imposing, is over- loaded with marble inside, there is no remarkable building here. The Theatre is on a good footing. The orchestra, under Lachner, is not sur- passed in this part of Germany. Here Schiller's " Robbers" was first brought out in 1782. Opposite the principal entrance to the theatre is the house of Kotzebue, where he was assassinated by the mad student Sand ; the victim and murderer are both buried in the Lu- theran churchyard. Schiller lived on the Parade Platz, in the house called Zum Karlsberg. English Church Service on Sundays. The reading-room of the club called the Harmony, in the Planken, is thrown open to strangers propeily introduced. A very agreeable lounge here is the establishment of Messrs. Artaria and Co., where all the productions of the fine arts and literature in Germany and Italy are to be met with, and a tourist can supply himself with all sorts of maps, views, &c, indispensable on a foreign journey. M. A. has a fine collection of original paintings. [ Schwetzingen should be visited from Mannheim for the sake of the gardens. It is about 9 m. distant. Inns : Erb Prinz ; Pfalzer Hof ; Goldner Ochse. A small town of 2500 inhab. Its Cha- teau had been from early times a seat ' of the Electors Palatine, when the Elector Charles Theodore made it his summer residence in 1743, and em- ployed the 20 following years, and vast sums of money , in converting into an orna- mental garden a flat sandy desert, in- debted to nature for no favour but the very distant prospect of a picturesque chain of hills. Those who desire to see all the sights here may prolong their walk for 2 or 3 hrs, ; at any rate it is well to take a guide at the gate. The objects best worth notice are the Mosque, the temples of Mercury and Apollo, the Bath, the Roman aqueduct, and the Temple of Pan. The vista looking over the great basin towards the Yosges Mountains has the pleasing effect of a natural diorama. The Gardens them- selves are perhaps the finest in German v, laid out in the formal French stylo, carried to perfection by Le Notre* at Rhenish Bavaria, route 102.— spires, history. 517 .Versailles, with, straight hasins edged with stone, and ruffled by ever-spurting fountains, with prim parterres, peopled with statues, flanked by cropped hedges, and intersected by long avenues. They extend about 114 Eng. acres. The Botanic Garden, included within their circuit, contains a fine collection of Al- pine plants. The conservatories and the orangery are worth notice. The Chateau, originally a small hunt- ing-lodge, augmented from time to time by wings, orangeries, and other addi- tions to accommodate a court, is ho- noured with few and short visits from the reigning Grand Duke, and is not worth notice ; but the grounds are kept in good order, and well deserve a visit.] Eilwagen daily to Kreuznach in 7 hrs. ; to Durkheim (Rte. 104) ; from Ludwigshafen, opposite Mannheim, several times a-day. Railroads to Heidelberg, 15 Eng. m. Trains in 1 hr. — to Frankfurt and Carls- ruhe (Rte. 105) ; from Ludwigshafen to Spires ; — toKaiserslautern,Homburg, andBexbach. (Rte. 103.) Steamers go several times a day to Mayence and Coblenz, and every day up to Strasburg. There is no inducement for the tra- veller by land to follow the Rhine above Mannheim, as he may now visit Spires by railway from Ludwigshafen. The traveller proceeding southward had better proceed by Heidelberg along the Baden railway. (Rte. 105.) Railway from Ludwigshafen to Spires, — trains in ~ hr. After leaving the stat. the Castle of Heidelberg is seen in the distance, under a red scar on the hill side of the Kaiserstuhl. Mutterstadt Stat. Schifferstadt Stat. Here the branch railway to Spires diverges from the line which runs "W". to Neustadt, to Kaisers- lautern, and Bexbach. (Rte. 103.) 1. Spires (Germ. Speier) Stat. — Inns : Post (Wittelsbacher Hof ), good ; Adler. This ancient and venerable city, one of the oldest, and originally one of the chief, cities in Germany, lies upon the 1. bank of the Rhine. Its popula- tion, which in the 14th cent, amounted to 27,000, is now reduced to about 9000, and it is in all other respects a mere shadow of its former self. It received from the Romans the name Civitas Nemetun, or Noviomagus ; but in their time it was only a fortified outpost on the Rhine to resist the attacks of the neighbouring Allemanni. Charlemagne, however, and the Emprs. of Germany who followed him, especially those of the Franconian and Swabian lines, made it their chosen place of residence and the seat of the Germanic Diet, bestow- ing upon it, at the same time, the pri- vileges of a Free City of the Empire, which made it the centre of a flourishing trade, and poured wealth into its walls. The Charter (Freibrief), conferred by Henry V. in 1111, gave to its citizens a monopoly of the carrying trade up and down the Rhine, and entitled them to destroy any baronial castle which might be built within 3 Germ. m. of their gates — an enactment intended effectually to secure them from troublesome and rapacious neighbours. The history of Spires during the period of the middle ages is an alternate record of Imperial festivities and courtly show, and of scenes of tumult and violence within its walls, and deadly feuds and combats without. Its citizens, in those unquiet times, were as well versed in the use of arms as in the arts of trade. At one time they were called upon to issue from their walls in order to chastise the lawless rapacity of some feudal baron, who had waylaid their merchants and pillaged their property on the high road, and who often paid for his insolence by hav- ing his castle burnt about his ears and levelled with the ground ; at another they were engaged in a quarrel with a neighbouring town, or in a feud with their bishop, or even with the Empr. himself. On several occasions armies of 20,000 men, composed of the levies of more than 100 different barons and towns, each marshalled under their own banners, in vain laid siege to Spires, being repulsed by the bravery of the citizens. Now and then fortune de- clared against them, and they suffered from the plundering inroads of hostile armies. In the 14th cent, the city maintained in its pay an army of knights and soldiers, to whom it partly intrusted its defence, and whom it engaged to 518 EOUTE 102. SPIRES. CATHEDKAL. Sect. VIII. fight its battles. At length the Imperial edict, which abolished the right of pri- vate war, in 1530, restored peace to Germany. The Imperial Chamber, Reichs-Kammergericht, by which its enactments were enforced, and all in- fringements of them punished, was established at Spires. This tribunal, the paramount court of appeal in Gi-ermany, existed here 200 years, until removed to Wetzlar 1689. The trade and prosperity of Spires began to decay in the 17th cent. ; but the final blow and the greatest injury was inflicted upon it by the atrocities of the French under Louis XIV., during the Orleans Succession AVar, called by the Germans " Mordbrenner Krieg." In 1689 the town was taken by the French, who shortly after issued a proclamation to the citizens, commanding them to quit it, with their wives and children, within the space of 6 days, and to be- take themselves into Alsace, Lorraine, or Burgundy, but upon pain of death not to cross the Rhine. To carry into execution this tyrannic edict, a provost- marshal, at the head of 40 assistant executioners, marched into the town ; they bore about them the emblems of their profession, in the shape of a gal- lows and wheel, embroidered on their dress. On the appointed day the miser- able inhabitants were driven out by beat of drum, like a flock of sheep. The French soldiers followed them, after having plundered everything in the de- serted town, which was then left to the tender mercies of executioners and in- cendiaries. In obedience to the com- mands of Montclair, the French com- mander, trains of combustibles were laid in the houses and lighted, and in a few hours the seven-and-forty streets of Spires were in a blaze. The conflagra- tion lasted 3 days and 3 nights ; but the destruction of the town did not cease even with this. Miners were incessantly employed in blowing up the houses, walls, fountains, and convents, so that the whole might be levelled with the dust and rendered xminhabitable. The Cathedral was dismantled, the graves of the Emprs. burst open and their re- mains scattered. For many years Spires lay a desolate heap of rubbish, until at last the impoverished inhabitants re- turned gradually to seek out the sites of their ancient dwellings. Since that time the town, although rebuilt, has never raised its head. This, however, was not the last of the calamities which this ill-fated city was destined to endure, and from foes of the same nation. In 1794 the revolution- ary army under Custine burst upon the town, and, after 6 different assaults, carried it by storm, and repeated all the wanton acts of atrocity and cruelty which their predecessors had enacted a century before. Previous to the siege of 1683 the town had 5 suburbs en- closed within ramparts, 13 gates, and 64 towers of defence provided with ar- tillery. After twice suffering desola- tion so complete, it can hardly be ex- pected to display many marks of its antiquity and former splendour in its buildings. Since 1816, however, when it came into the possession of the King of Bavaria, much has been done to re- pair or restore the little that remains. The Dom or Cathedral, whose twin towers present a noble appearance from the Rhine, is almost the only edifice which has bid defiance to the attempts to destroy it ; the French undermined it, and tried to blow it up ; but the venerable structure remained unshaken by the explosion. In point of dimen- sions it is perhaps the most stupendous building in the Romanesque style ex- isting. The 2 tall pointed towers and the semicircular termination at the E. end are the sole surviving portions of the original edifice, founded in 1027 by Conrad the Salic, on the spot where a Roman temple of Venus, and after- wards a Christian temple built by Dagobert II., had stood before. The edifice, as it now stands, certainly arose after 1165, when a conflagration de- stroyed the earlier building. All that was consumable in the "W. end, cupola, nave, and choir, was burnt by the French, 1689, although they had pro- mised to respect the building, and had thereby induced the citizens to fill it with their valuable goods and chattels, which, after being plundered by the spoilers, served as fuel to assist in con- suming it. Mheniah Bavaria, route 102.— spires, phillipsburg. 519 The interior is severe in its style of architecture, and without ornament, hut the width and height of the -nave strike the beholder with awe. In the King's choir, between the nave and the choir, is the Imperial Vault, in which 8 Em- perors of Germany were buried ; among them Henry III., IV., andV., Rudolph of Habsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and Albert of Austria. Since their graves were sacrilegiously broken open and plundered by the French in 1689, it is difficult to say who remains behind. The Empr. Charles VI., the last of the male line of Habsburg, caused search to be made for the bones of his an- cestors; some were found and rein- terred, but to whom they belonged was not ascertained. The Duke of Nassau has caused the mutilated gravestone of his ancestor Adolph to be replaced by a modern monument by Ohmacht ; it consists of a kneeling figure of the Em- peror in armour, on a Byzantine sar- cophagus of black Nassau marble. Another monumental statue of Rudolph of Habsburg has been erected by King Lewis of Bavaria ; executed by Schwan- thaler of Munich. Numerous judicious restorations have been made by the Ba- varian government ; and the church, which was a ruin in 1816, has been re- opened for public worship since 1824. The frescoes by Schraudolph are among the finest modern works in Germany. The Crypt, under the choir, supported by short massy columns, is very curi- ous. Traces of the mines formed by the French in their ineifectual attempt to blow up the building may still be perceived here; and here is placed the original gravestone of Rudolph of Habsburg, bearing his effigy care- fully copied from the life. The font dates from the 9 th or 10th cent. In the Sacristy are a set of priest's robes of the 14th cent., beauti- fully embroidered with subjects from Scripture, figures of the apostles, &c. ; they were brought from Aschaffenburg. The treasures of the sacristy disappeared at the Revolution. In the ruined Chapel of St. Afra, on the N. side of the building, the remains of the Empr. Henry IV. were laid by his faithful subjects, the citizens of Worms, and remained 5 years unburied, until the removal of the papal ban of excom- munication opened for him the Imperial vault. The Dom is surrounded by agreeable pleasure-grounds extending down to the Rhine. In the Hall of Antiquities, near the Dom, are deposited various Roman re- mains found in Rhenish Bavaria, chiefly at Rheinzabern ; they consist of pottery of all kinds, elegant vases and dishes, with the moulds in which they were shaped, bas-reliefs in stone and terra- cotta, glass vessels, lamps, votive tablets, spear-heads, sword-blades, a good statue of Mercury in bronze, and the eagle of a Roman legion. One of the few surviving relics of the old city is a colossal tower and gateway, called Alt Portel, between the town and the Landau suburb ; it is of consider- able antiquity. A ruined and unsightly wall, near the Protestant church (built 1717), is the only remaining relic of the Retscher, or Imperial palace, in which 49 Diets were held. The name comes (it is said) from the Bohemian "Hradschin" (see Prague), given to it by the Pro- testants of that nation (?). It will be remembered that the " protest " of the reformed princes and cities against the decree of the Diet held here in 1529 gave rise to the name of Protestant. There are pleasant walks round the town. Strangers can be introduced by the innkeepers to read the newspapers in the club called Harmonic. A good road leads to Landau, and the Castle of Trifels, the prison of Richard Cceur-de-Lion, described in Rte. 104. Continuing the voyage up the Rhine, above Spires, we pass (rt.) Phillips- burg, named after Philip von Sotern, Archbp. of Spires, who founded it at the beginning of the Thirty Years' War ; it was formerly a fortress of the empire, and makes an important figure in the campaigns of Turenne. Its works were razed in 1800. Marshal Berwick was killed under its walls, 1734. Large and unwholesome morasses, below the 520 ROUTE 103. — MANNHEIM TO SAARBRUCKEN. Sect. VIII. level of the Rhine, overspread the coun- try about 2 1. Germersheim. — Inn, a filthy hole, not fit for a dog ; passengers who may chance to stop here for the night had better remain on board the steamer. It is a mile distant from the Rhine. This is a miserable small town of 2000 ihhab., of which a barrack and a church spire rising above the ramparts are alone visible from the river. It was founded by the Empr. Eudolph of Habsburg, who died here, 1291. It is being converted into a Fortress of the German Confederation, and strong mi- litary defences have been in progress since 1834. Bridge of boats over the Rhine here. [The shortest road hence to Strasburg runs along the 1. bank of the Rhine, but at a little distance from it, by Rhein- zabern, 2 Germ. m. ; Lauterberg, 2 Germ. m. ; Beinheim, 2 French p. ; Drusenheim, 2 p. ; "Wanzenau, 2 p. ; Strasburg, 1-J p. : but it is not provided with post-horses ; so that it is better to go from Germersheim to Landau, 2^ Germ, m., or to cross over to the rt. bank of the river.] r. Leopoldshafen (formerly called Schrock), a poor village without proper accommodation for travellers. rt. Knielingen {Inn, Zum Rhein- bad) ; here the steamers land passengers bound for Carlsruhe, 5 m. off. Boat bridge here. rt. Iffelsheim is 6 m. from Baden. 1. Fort Louis, a fortress raised by Vauban, on an island, taken and razed by the Austrians 1793. The spire of Strasburg is visible from this (27 m. off) in clear weather ; and perhaps the best view of it is from the Rhine, higher up. Like Mt. Blanc, its height is not appreciated when you are near it. A small quantity of gold is found in the sand and gravel of the Rhine in this part of its course. A few persons occupy themselves in gold- washing, but the gain is small and very precarious. It occurs chiefly along the banks. 1. Strasburg. InRte. 107. 1. Below the bridge of Kehl a new canal opens into the Rhine, connecting it with the 111, and enabling steamers to penetrate into the heart of Strasburg, near to the theatre.- Observe the spire as you enter the canal. Larger vessels stop at the bridge of boats which con- nects Germany to France, near to the French custom-house, about 2 m. from the centre of the town. ROUTE 103. MANNHEIM (LUDWIGSHAFEN) TO SAAR- LAUTERN RAILWAY. This Railway — the Pfalzer-Ludwigs- eisenbahn — was opened 1847 - 48. Terminus at Ludwigshafen on 1. bank of the Rhine, opposite Mannheim. Trains 3 or 4 times a day, in 5-^ hrs. When the Railway from Paris to Metz is completed this will be the great line of communication between Paris and Stuttgart — Munich and Vienna. A traveller familiar with the Rhine may agreeably vary his route by going from Mannheim to Treves, and descending the Moselle. Mutterstadt Stat. Schifferstadt Stat. Here a branch Railway diverges (1.) to Spires. Bohl Stat. Hasloch Stat. Neustadt Stat. See Rte. 104. The Railway now enters the Haardt moun- tains, and penetrates for 6 m. up the narrow winding valley of the Speier- bach, through whose red sandstone rocks 11 short tunnels have been driven. Frankenstein Stat. Kaiserslautern Stat. ] Landstuhl Stat. >See Rte 101. Bruchmuhlbach Stat. J The road quits the Bavarian territory and enters that of Prussia. Homburg Stat. (See p. 511.) Omnibus to Zweibrucken in 1 hr. A productive coalfield is reached near Bexbach Stat. Neunkirchen Stat. Saarbriicken to Treves. (See Rtes. 100, 100a.) ROUTE 104. MANNHEIM TO ZWEIBRUCKEN (DEUX FONTS), THROUGH NEUSTADT, LANDAU, AND ANNWEILER. 15 Germ. m. = 69 Eng. m. Wieniah Bavaria, route 104. — durkheim. neustadt. 521 Railway to Neustadt in 1 hr. (See Rte. 103.) Thence Eilwagen daily. The circle of the Rhine (Iihein Kreis) includes much pleasing scenery among the chains of the Haardt and Vosges mountains, and many old towns and castles, interesting from their history. The following route, not much traversed hitherto hy English travellers, lays open some of the most interesting objects in this part of the country, and will conduct to the prison of Richard Cceur- de-Lion, an object of interest for all Englishmen. They must not expect, however, to meet with a good road, or very capital accommodation. If the traveller keeps the post-road he will follow that from Mannheim to Mayence as far as Itj Oggersheim (p. 515). 2 Durkheim. — Inn, Vier Jahrs- zeiten, good. This town, of 5500 inhab., was once the residence of the Princes of Leiningen-Hardenburg, whose palace was burnt by the French, 1794; it was originally a strong fortress, but its works have long since been razed ; it is now chiefly remarkable for its agree- able situation at the foot of the hills on the skirts of the plain of the Rhine, and at the entrance of the valley of the Isen- ach, up which runs the road to Kaisers- lautern, and for its pleasing environs. The chief beauties of the Rheinpfalz begin at Durkheim, on the borders of the Haardtgebirge. The proper way — indeed the only one — to explore its heights and valleys is on foot, guided by a good map — such as Reizmann's map of Germany, sheets 199 and 218, price 15 Sgr. each. "Within a short distance lie the salt- works of Phillipshall. The summit of the nearest height, the Kastanienberg, is crowned by the Heidenmauer (Pa- gan's Wall), a rampart of loose stones 8 to 10 ft. high, 60 or 70 wide at the base, enclosing a space of about 2 m, The Romans are said to have built it to keep in check the barbarians : and Attila is reported to have passed the winter in it, after having expelled the Romans, and when on his way to take possession of Rome itself. It has given a name to a novel of Cooper, the American. Near it is the Devil's Stone, a natural rock, bearing the im- pression of a gigantic paw, on which the pagans are said to have sacrificed. The view from it over the plain of the Palatinate, along the Rhine and Neckar as far as Heidelberg, and the near prospect of fertile and industrious val- leys, is highly pleasing. At the entrance of the Isenachthal, at the top of a hill nearly encircled by the stream, stand the ruins of the Abbey of Limburg, with its vast church, founded in 1030, in the style of the Dom of Spires, and destroyed by the Swedes in 1632. The height on which it stands commands fine views, and is now converted into gardens. A crypt and part of the cloister remain. Within sight of the ruins of the abbey are those of Ilardenburg, the castle of the Counts of Leiningen, its greatest enemies, who were engaged in constant feuds with the monks, and burnt the abbey in the 15th cent. One of the Raugrafs of Hardenburg, having made the abbot his prisoner, built his head into the wall of the castle, with his face towards the abbey, that he might see the confla- gration. The road to Neustadt passes through Wachenheim, Forst, and Deidesheim, (Inn, Baierischer Hof), all famous for the wines produced in the neighbour- ing vineyards. It is a most delightful ride. Geologists will remark with in- terest the eruption of basalt, proceeding from the mountain called Pechstein- Kopf : the basalt assumes the shape of balls. 2 Neustadt an der Haardt. — Inns : Post ; Goldener Lowe. This town of 8000 inhab. is old and uninviting within, but its situation at the foot of the Haardt mountains is delightful. Its Church dates from the 10th cent., and contains curious monuments of the Pfalzgraves. In the fore-court, called the Paradise, some remains of ancient fresco paintings may be traced. The neigh- bourhood abounds in ruined castles, many of which were reduced to their present condition in the Peasants' War (1525). Railroad to the Rhine at Mannheim. On the hill above the town rise the ivy-clad ruins of the Castle Winzingen, 522 ROUTE 104. — LANDAU. ANNWEILEE. Sect. VIII. called Haardter Schlosschen (originally the summer residence of the Electors Palatine, now attached to a modern villa), and Wolfsburg, destroyed in the Thirty Years' War. It commands a fine view, extending as far as Heidel- berg castle. About 2 m. S. of the town is the Castle of Hambach, another ruin. It was built by the Emp. Henry IV., who is said to have set out from hence on his disgraceful pilgrimage to Rome barefoot, in 1077, to appease the anger of the haughty Pope Hildebrand. The view from the ruins is fine, but in- ferior to that from the Madenburg. It now belongs to the present King of Bavaria, to whom it was presented on his marriage, when Crown Prince, by the Rheinkreis. He began to restore and rebuild it under the name of Max- burg. Near JNeustadt very extensive quar- ries are excavated in the Buntersand- stein and Musckelkalk ; the latter abounds in fossils. The road passes Edenkoben (Inn, Schaf, good), a town of 4500 inhab., surrounded by vineyards, producing a wine of inferior quality. Near at hand may be seen the ch. and tower of the ruined convent Heilsbruck. 2. Landau. — Inns : Schwan ; Schaf (Sheep). This strong fortress of the Germanic Confederation is occupied by a garrison of Bavarians, and numbers 6000 inhab. It is situated on the Queich, which fills its fosse with water. It has been an object of contest in every great European war from the 15th cent., and consequently its his- tory is nothing but a succession of sieges, blockades, bombardments, cap- tures, and surrenders. During the Thirty Years' War it was taken 8 times, by the troops of Count Mansfeldt, by the Spaniards, Swedes, Imperialists, and French. In the 17th cent, it fell into the hands of the French, was for- tified by Vauban, and was considered impregnable until 1702, when it was taken by Margrave Lewis of Baden. From 1713 to 1815 it remained in the hands of the French. It stood a siege of 9 months in 1793, in the course of which 30,000 shells, &c, were thrown into it. In the following year the pow- der magazine blew up, and the bell of the Rathhaus was carried by the explo- sion as far as the village of Godramstein, where it was dug up in a meadow some years afterwards. The gates of the for- tress are shut at an early hour. An agreeable excursion may be made to the Madenburg, near Eschbach (Giin- ter's Inn), the most perfect castle in the Rheinpfalz, which long was the property of the Archbishops of Spires, ruined by the French 1680. " The view from it is the finest in the district. A guide should be engaged at Eschbach to cross the hills to Trrfels, 6 m. to the E. The walk from it through the woods to Annweiler, taking Trrfels by the way, is about 8 m. A league from Landau, at Gleisweiler, is a hydro- therapic establishment kept by Dr. Schneider. The post-road from Landau to Zwei- briicken is good. It runs up the pretty valley of the Queich, a beautiful pass of the Yosges, to 1^ Annweiler. -Inn, Post. This is a town of 2600 inhab., on the Queich. The ruined castle of Trifels, memo- rable as the prison of Richard Camr-de- Lion; is 5 m. distant. It is now a total ruin ; one square tower alone remains in a tolerably perfect state to attest its former strength ; but the subterranean dungeon, in which, according to tra- dition, he was confined, and watched night and day by guards with drawn swords, is still pointed out. After being captured by his treacherous ene- my, Leopold of Austria, on his return from the Holy Land, Richard was sold by him for 30,000 marks of silver to the Emp. Henry VI., who basely detained him a prisoner from 1192 to 1194. It was probably beneath these walls that the song of the faithful minstrel Blon- del first succeeded in discovering the prison of his master, by procuring the vocal response from the royal trou- badour. In 1193 his shameless jailor, the Emp., brought Richard in chains before the Diet at Hagenau, to answer the charge of the murder of Conrad of Montferrat, which he repelled with such manly and persuasive eloquence, and proved so clearly his innocence, that the Diet at once acquitted him, Rhenish Bavaria, route 105. — frankftjrt to basle. 523 and ordered his chains to be knocked off. In 1194 he was released from Trifels in consideration of a ransom of 130,000 marks of silver. The castle of Trifels stands on the summit of a singular mountain of sandstone (Buntersandstein) called the Sonnenberg, 1422 ft. above the sea- level. It was a favourite residence of the German emperors, and must have been a place of great magnificence as well as strength. Frederick Barba- rossa, and many of his predecessors and successors, held their court 'here, and the Regalia of the empire were depo- sited within its walls for security. It was also used as a state prison for many unfortunate captives besides Richard of England. It has remained a ruin ever since the Thirty Years' War, when it was taken by the Swedes ; but it has something imposing even in its present state. The walls of the donjon are very thick, and 40 ft. high. The cha- pel has been stripped, and the mar- ble pillars removed from it to the ch. of Annweiler. An agreeable path leads up from the town to the castle, 1^ hr. walk, whence the view is very pleasing ; two of the neighbouring heights are also crowned with castles. Annweiler contains nothing remark- able, but the scenery of the valley of the Queich, for 12 m. above it, should not be left unseen. The scenery be- tween Annweiler and Dahn is particu- larly interesting from the extraordinary forms assumed by the sandstone rocks (Buntersandstein), which have been split and fissured in all directions. At Willgartswiesen (Inn, Lamm ; good and cheap) is a pretty new Ch. with twin towers. A walk of 2 hrs. by Hauenstein, with a guide, brings you to Dahn [Inn, Bitter St. Georg), near which rises the overhanging rock called Jungfernsprung. Dahn may be visited by a slight detour on the way to Pirmascns ; the distance is about 15 m. 2 Kaltenbach. 1^ Pirmascns (Inn, Post, Lamm), a town of 5000 inhab. 1\ Zweibriicken (French, Deux Ponts). — Inns : Post ; Zweibriicker Hof. A town of 7300 inhab., in a very picturesque situation, once the capital of the duchy of Zweibriicken, or Deux Ponts. The dukes resided in the Palace, partly destroyed by the French, and the remains now converted into a Catholic ch. The name of this place is supposed to be derived from the two bridges leading across the river Erbach to the palace. The Princi- pality once belonged to the crown of Sweden, but fell by inheritance to the King of Bavaria, to whom it now be- longs. The series of the Classics known as "The Bipont Edition" was printed here by a society of learned men in 1779. Eilwagen daily to Carlsruhe. Zweibriicken is 1^ Germ. m. distant from Homburg, which is on the high road from Mayence to Metz, and on the Mannheim and Bexbach (Saarbriicker) railway. (Rte. 101.) ROUTE 105. FRANKFURT TO BASLE, BY DARMSTADT, HEIDELBERG, CARLSRUHE, AND FREI- BURG. — RAILWAY. From Frankfurt to Heidelberg or Mannheim in 3 hrs. by the M'ain- Nekar Eisenbahn. — 101 Germ. m. = 46£ Eng. m. Heidelberg to Haltingen Stat. 4 m. from Basle, in 9 hrs., by the Badische Staatsbahn. — 34 Germ. m. =156^ Eng. m. Terminus in Frankfurt outside the GaUus Thor. The line crosses the Main at Frank- furt by a new bridge, and passes 1. on the height the watch-tower of Sachsen- hausen, whence the view over Frank- furt, the Main, the distant Taunus, and the immediate foreground of neat villas and vineyards is very pleasing. At Sachsenhausen the railway to Offenbach turns off to the E. Langen Stat. The country, as far as Darmstadt, is flat and uninteresting. Darmstadt Stat. — Inns : Darm- sfadter Hof ; Traube (Bunch of Grapes). Kohlers, near the railway stat., outside the Rheinthor, is a handsome building. Darmstadt, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Hesse Darmstadt, the residence of the Grand Duke, and seat of the government and 524 ROUTE 105. — DARMSTADT. Sect. VIII. chambers, lias a pop. of 22,000 (chiefly Protestants). It is a dull uninteresting town, which need not detain the tra- veller long. The appearance of tor- pidity is increased by the extent of surface over which it is spread. The streets are straight and very wide, the squares numerous ; and many of the houses are built singly, with intervals between them. The old town, with its dark and confined streets, is very pro- perly kept in the background, and none of the great thoroughfares pass through it. Near the end of the Rhein- strasse, leading from the railway, rises a Column, 134 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of the Grand Duke Louis, by Schwanthaler. The Catholic Ch. built by Holler, a native architect, is worth notice. Its exterior is of brick ; the interior, a ro- tunda, 173 ft. in diameter and 123 ft. high, surrounded by pillars, 50 ft. high, is imposing, though simple. The Grand Duke lives in a New Palace of no great architectural preten- sions, next door to the Traube Hotel. The Old Palace (Altcs Schloss) has been fitted up as a residence for the Hereditary Grand Duke (Erb- Gross Herzog). It is a structure of various ages, from the 16th to the 18th; still surrounded by a dry ditch, now con- verted into a shrubbery and garden. It contains likewise the Museum of Paint- ings and of Natural History. Among the 700 pictures which fill the gallery, the following seem best worth notice : — The Purification of the Virgin by William of Cologne, sometimes called William Calf, a rare master. — Schoreel, the Death of the Virgin. — L. Crananch, portrait of Albert of Brandenburg, Archbp. of Mayence, as St. Jerome with his lion ; and of Luther and his Wife. — Portraits of Louis XIV. and XV., Cardinal Mazarin, Maria Lec- zinsky, Marie Antoinette, Cardinal Fleury, and Madame du Barry, by French artists. — In the Dutch School : Schalken, portrait of William III. of England. — Vandyk, Virgin and Child ; sketch of the portrait of Lord Pem- broke.— P. Potter (?), Cow and Herd, with a horn. — Eckhout, a Man's Head. ■ — Tenters, Peasants. — P. de Hooge, Dutchman and his Wife. — Rembrandt, portrait of his Second Wife.— Italian School : P. Veronese, sketch of the great picture in the Louvre of the Marriage in Cana. — Titian (?), a Venus (doubt- ful). — Velasquez, a Child in a white frock. — Domenichino, David and Na- than. — Raphael (?), St. John in the Wilderness, varying slightly from the paintings of the same subject at Flo- rence, and in the Stafford gallery ; the Archangel Michael. St. Genoveva by a modern German artist, Steinbruck. There is -some very curious painted glass in this gallery, and numerous an- tique ivory carvings, enamels, &c. " In the Collection of Coins are many of the thin and barbarous Bracteatse of the middle ages." — F. S. Museum of Natural History. The most valuable and interesting part of this collection are the fossils, found in the neighbourhood of the Rhine, such as remains of the whale and elephant, some from the bed of the Rhine : seve- ral very perfect skulls, and numerous other bones of rhinoceros from Oppen- heim ; of Sus antiquus and Mastodon from Eppelsheim : numerous perfect jaws and other remains of the Deinothe- rium, an extinct amphibious animal, equalling the elephant in size, and feeding like the Dugong upon herbs and weeds growing in the water. These unequalled specimens were found in sandpits at Eppelsheim, near Alzei, along with marine shells. The fossils of this museum have been de- scribed in a work published by Dr. Kaup. The Palace also contains a good Public Library of 200,000 vols. ; the inhabitants of the town are allowed to take books home. The Theatre (Hof-Opernhaus), near the Palace, was built in 1819 from the designs of Moller. Near the theatre is the Excrcier Haus (Drilling House), a sort of large riding-school. It was built for the pmq>ose of drilling the garrison under cover in bad weather, and is re- markable for the great size of its roof, 157 ft. broad, and 319 ft. long ; con- structed, it is said, by a common car- penter, after architects of pretension had declared the task impossible. The H. Darmstadt. ROUTE 105.— ODENWALD. 525 building now serves as a depot for artillery. The Gardens of the Palace (Bosquet, or Herrngarten) are very prettily laid out, but sadly neglected; one lofty white poplar is remarkable ; within thern is the grave of Margravine Henrietta Caroline, great-grandmother of the present King of Prussia. The spot was chosen by herself in her lifetime, and Frederick the Great engraved upon her urn the words, " Sexu fcemina, ingenio vir." The landlord of the inn will intro- duce the traveller to the Casino club. The House of Commons of the duchy assembles under the same roof, and, at particular seasons, balls, concerts, and assemblies take place in it. There is very little commerce at Darmstadt ; the inhabitants depend in a great measure on the court. A mile or two out of the town is the preserve, where wild boars are kept for the ducal chasse. Strangers are often taken in the evening to see the animals fed. • Eilwagen daily to Mayence (4 1 Germ, m. in 3~ hrs.), by Gross-Gerau, cross- ing the Main by a ferry opposite Castel. Eberstadt Stat. A little beyond this (1.) is the ruined castle of Frankenstein. The picturesque district called the Odenwald (forest of Odin) begins a few m. S. of Darmstadt, not far from this station. It lies to the E. of the railroad and of the high road to Hei- delberg, and some of its most inter- esting scenes, particularly the Melibo- cus, may be visited on the way thither. The entire excursion may not suit the taste or convenience of all travellers ; but the ascent of the Melibocus mountain should be omitted by none, as it cannot fail of affording gratification by its fine panoramic view. [A very good but hilly road leads from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, through the heart of the Odenwald, amid scenery of great interest. The stats, are Brens- bach, Erbach (see p. 526), and Hirs- chom. The distance, 55 m. The best sleeping place is Michelstadt, but as the Inn (Lion) is not good it is better to push on.] The Railroad, for the greater part of the way, runs near the old post-road from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, which is celebrated for its beauty. It is called Bergstrasse (mountain road, from the Latin strata moniana, although, in fact, perfectly level), because it runs along the base of a range of hills, which form the E. boundary of the valley of the Rhine. Its chief beauty arises from the fertility and high cultivation of the district it overlooks, rich in its luxuriant vegetation of vines and maize, enlivened by glimpses of the Rhine, and bounded by the outline of the Vosges mountains in France. (1.) The wooded and vine-covered range of mountains, with their old castles, form- ing the boundary of the Odenwald, runs parallel with the railroad and at a short distance from it ; rt. stretches a vast sandy flat, through which the Rhine wanders, bounded by the heights of Mont Tonnerre and the Vosges at 50 or 60 m. distance. The villages and towns are beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains, overhung by vine-covered slopes, and embosomed in orchards, which extend in cheerful avenues along the road from one town to another. "Almost every mountain of the Bergstrasse, and many of those in the Odenwald, are crowned by a castle ; which, embosomed in the woods of beech, or surrounded by vineyards, adds the interest of its anti- quity and chivalrous associations to the charms of the landscape." — Autumn near the Bhine. Zwingenberg Stat, close under the woody Melibocus. Those who wish to ascend the Meli- bocus should leave the railroad here (/«,», Lowe). Take refreshments with you — none are to be had above — and ask for the key of the tower. The visit, including ascent and descent by Schloss Auerbach, the best way to return to the road, occupies 3 hrs. walking. The tower alone commands the view on the side of the Odenwald, over its forest-clad hills ; the keys are kept at Auerbach, and at Alsbach. The whole excursion to the Melibocus, Felsberg, Felsenmcer, and through the valley of Schonberg back to Auerbach and Zwingenberg, occupies about 6 hrs. 526 ROUTE 105.— THE MELIBOCUS. ERBACH. Sect. VIII. The Melibocus, or Malchen, is a conical hill of granite, 1632 Paris ft. above the sea : it is the highest of the Odenwald chain of hills, and is conspicuous far and wide, on account of the white tower on its top, erected 1772, as a Belvedere. The view from it is most extensive, owing to the vast expanse of flat in the valley of the Rhine below. " The more distant objects are, Spires, and Mannheim with its slated dome to the 1. ; Worms and its Gothic cathedral, opposite ; and the dark towers of Mayence, lower down. The tower is built on the very edge of the declivity. The smoking villages, the gardens, vineyards, and orchards of the Bergstrasse, appeared immediately be- neath us. "We traced the course of the Rhine, which now gleamed in the bright sun, and appeared little removed from the base of the mountain, from above Mannheim, almost to Bingen, a distance of nearly 60 Eng. m. At Bingen it loses itself in the defiles of the Rheingau mountains, which bound the view on that side. The course of the placid Neckar and its junction with the Ehine are very visible, as also that of the Main. By the help of a good tele- scope, in a clear day, you may distin- guish the tower of Strasburg cathedral, at a distance of above 100 Eng. in. Towards the K". the view reaches the mountains in the neighbourhood of Giessen, in Hesse, 60 m. distant. To the E. lies the Odenwald, over the chaotic wooded hills of which the pro- spect stretches as far as the vicinity of Wiirzburg — a distance of 60 or 70 m. ; while on the W., across the Rhine, the eye ranges over the smooth plain, till it is bounded by the blue broken tops of the Mont Tonnerre and the Vosges mountains, at a nearly equal distance." Autumn near the Rhine. [Those who intend to extend their walk through the Odenwald continue by a convenient path to another moun- tain, the Eelsberg, 3 m. off, surmounted by a hunting-lodge (Jagerhaus), which also commands a fine view. The valley which separates it from the Melibocus is one of the wildest in the Odenwald. A little way from the Jagerhaus, on the declivity of the hill, by the side of the path leading to Reichenbach, lies the Eiesensdule (Giant's Column), a gi- gantic column of hard syenite, similar to the rock of which the mountain is composed, and without doubt quar- ried on the .spot; it is about 30 ft. long, nearly 4 in diameter, and taper- ing towards one end. Its origin and use are unknown, but it must be of great antiquity. Not far off lies a vast block of the same stone, called Eiesenaltar, bearing on it incisions and marks of the saw. The appearance of these vestiges of human power and art in the depths of a sequestered forest is peculiarly striking, and not easily ac- counted for. Some have supposed that they are of German origin, and were intended to form part of a temple of Odin. It is more probable that they are the work of Roman artificers, during the time they were established in this part of Germany, which was included in the Agri Decumates. It was at one time proposed to erect the column on the field of Leipzig, as a monument of that victory — a project more easily started than executed. The Felsenmeer (Sea of Rocks) is a singular accumulation of fragments of syenite, some of vast size, heaped upon one another, and extending from near the top of the Felsberg almost to Reichenbach. They are of the same kind of rock as the mountain itself, so cannot have been transported from a distance. They appear like an avalanche of stones, hurled by some convulsion of nature from the summit. From this point again the traveller has the choice either of retmning to Zwingenberg Station, by way of Reichenbach and Auerbach, or of proceeding about 18 m. from Auer- bach, along a tolerable road, passing through Schonberg, Reichenbach, the hill of Winterkasten, and Reichels- heim, to Erbach [Inn, Post). This small town, is situated in a narrow valley overlooked by high rocks, composed of the new red sandstone (Bmitersandstein) and muschclkalk of geologists. The Castle of the Counts of Erbach, a modern building, erected on the site of an ancient baronial residence, the H. Darmstadt, route 105.— erbach. castle of rodenstein. 527 greater part of which, except the donjon tower, was removed in the last cent., contains a very interesting Ar- moury, highly deserving of a visit. There are many snits, arranged, some on horseback, in the attitude of the tournament, others on foot. The history of every one is known : many have belonged to ancestors of the family, others have been worn by robber knights (Raubritter), not a few of whom expiated their crimes on the wheel or scaffold. Those which have a more general historical interest are, the suits of Philip the Good of Bur- gundy, the Empr. Frederick III., Maximilian I. of Austria, Gian Gia- como Medici, Margrave Albert of Brandenburg, Gustavus Adolphus, and Wallenstein. The last two, with many other suits in the collection, were brought from the arsenal at Nurem- berg. Here is besides the panoply of Franz of Sickingen, and his friend Gotz of Berlichingen, with the iron hand, brought from Heilbronn, and a small suit made for Thomcle, the dwarf of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, and worn by him on some festive occa- sion when he was presented in a pie to the company seated at table. There are other curiosities in the castle, such as fire-arms of various periods, painted glass, antiques, vases, &c. ; in short, it is highly worthy of a visit from strangers. In the chapel are the coffins in which Eginhard, secretary and son- in-law of Charlemagne, and the faith- ful Emma his wife, were buried ; they were removed from the church in Seli- genstadt in 1810. Eginhard was an ancestor of the Erbach family. Erbach is connected by a very good post-road with Darmstadt ; the dis- tance is 5^ Germ, m., and the country is very beautiful. There is also a way from Erbach to Heidelberg by Beer- felden and Eberbach on the JNeckar, from whence the descent of that river may be made in a boat, or the road along the banks may be followed. About 9 m. KW. from Erbach, between Reichelsheim and Bilstein, and near the former place, in a wild and secluded mountain district, surrounded by forests, lies the Castle of Rodenstein, the seat of the singular superstition of the wild Jager, the Knight of Roden- stein, who, issuing from out the ruined walls of the neighbouring castle of Schnellert, his usual abode, announces the approach of war by traversing the air with a noisy cavalcade, to the Castle of Rodenstein, situated on a solitary mountain opposite. " The strange noises heard on the eve of battles are authenticated by affidavits preserved in the village of Reichelsheim ; some are of so recent a date as 1743 and 1796, and there are persons who profess to have been convinced by their eyes as well as their ears. In this manner the people assert that they were fore- warned of the victories of Leipzig and Waterloo. If the spectral host return at once to Schnellert, nothing mate- rial occurs ; but if the huntsman tarry with his train, then some momentous event, threatening evil and calamity to Germany, is expected by the people to occur. The flying army of Roden- stein may probably be owing to a simple cause. The power of the wind is very great, and its roar singularly solemn and sonorous in these vast districts of forest. In the pine forests it some- times tears up thousands of trees in a night." — Autumn near the Shine. The legend of the Wild Huntsman has been attributed, with some proba- bility, to another cause — the passage at night of vast flocks of the larger birds of passage, as cranes, storks, &c, through the air in their annual migra- tions. The rustling of so many wings, and the wild cries of the fowl, heard in the darkness of night and in the solitude of the forest, may easily have furnished the superstitious peasant with the idea of the aerial huntsman and his pack. Since the dissolution of the German empire, the spectre, it is said, has given up his nocturnal chase ; at least, the inhabs. of the farm-house standing directly under the Rodenstein have not, for many years, been dis- turbed by noise or sight that can be traced to a ghostly origin. There is a road from Reichelsheim by Fiirth to Weinheim Stat, on the Bergstrasse.] 528 ROUTE 105. — AUERBACH. STARKENBURG. Sect. VIII. The Railroad runs nearly parallel with the Bergstrasse from Darmstadt to Weinheim, where it diverges to cross the Neckar at Ladehburg, "be- yond which it joins the railroad he- tween Mannheim and Heidelberg half- way between those towns. On the 1. not far "beyond the Zwin- genberg Stat, lies Anerbach (Inns : Krone (Crown), good; — Rose), one of the prettiest villages on the Bergs- strasse. It is sometimes resorted to as a watering-place, on account of a mi- neral spring in the neighbourhood. In the village itself there is nothing re- markable, hut it is worth while to explore the heauties of its neighbour- hood. A gradual ascent, practicable for a light char, leads past the Brunnen to the ruins of the Castle of Auerberg, one of the most picturesque in the Odenwald, 2 m. from the village. It was dismantled hy the French under Turenne, 1674, and time is fast com- pleting the work of destruction begun by man ; one of its tall slender towers fell in 1821, and the other threatens to follow it. The hill on which it stands is composed of granite and gneiss. A shady and easy path conducts from the ruins to the Melibocus ; guides and mules are to be hired hy those who re- quire them, and carriages can safely ascend. A little S. of Auerbach, is a hillock in the middle of a field, called Landberg, upon which in ancient times the Burgraves of Starkenburg held, in the open air, their tribunal called Gaugericht. Bensheim Stat. (Inn, Sonne), a town of 4000 inhab., with a new ch. in the round style, built by Moller. [About 3 m. W. of Bensheim, off the road, is the ruined Abbey of Lorsch, the oldest Gothic edifice in this part of Germany. A fragment of a portico, which served as an entrance into the original church, consecrated in 774, in the presence of Charlemagne, his queen, and two sons, still exists. The rest of the "building is of the 11th cent., and exhibits a specimen of the debased Roman style. A part of the building, at present used as a storehouse for fruit, dates from 1090. Lorsch is now only interesting to the antiquarian and architect. The holy monks who founded the abbey not only spread ci- vilisation and religion through the sur- rounding country, but redeemed it from the state of a wilderness, like the hack- woods of America, and "brought it under cultivation. In process of time the priory surpassed in wealth and extent of possession many hishop- rics and principalities. Duke Thassilo of Bavaria, deposed by Charlemagne, for treason, ended his days here as a monk.] Heppenheim Stat. — Inn, Halber Mond (Half Moon), good, capital trout, and wine of the country. This small town of 3700 inhab., like most others on the Bergstrasse, has an ancient and decayed appearance, hut is prettily situated. The church was built by Charlemagne. On a commanding height behind rise the towers of Stark- enburg Castle, "built 1064 by the abbots of Lorsch as a defence against the at- tacks of the German Emperors. It afterwards belonged to the Archbishops of Mayence, who considered it their strongest fortress, and maintained a garrison in it down to the time of the Seven Years' War. It was taken by the Spaniards under Cordova (1621), by the Swedes under Gustavus Adol- phus (1631), and was twice fruitlessly besieged by Turenne (1645 and 1674). The ascent — ^ an hr.'s drive hy a rotigh road — from Heppenheim is not very difficult, and is well repaid hy the beautiful view. The ground round these picturesque ruins is tastefully laid out in a garden. A post -road runs from Heppenheim through Lorsch and Biirstadt to "Worms, 2| Germ. m. A little way out of Heppenheim the railroad crosses the frontier of Darm- stadt into Baden. Heinsbach Stat. Near here is the country seat of M. Rothschild of Frank- furt, surmounted by 2 towers. He has large estates here. Weinheini Stat. (Inns : Der Karls- berg, near the Post ; Pfalzer Hof, near the hridge on the Weschnitz) is an ancient town, surrounded by towers and a ditch ; it lies on the Weschnitz, and has 4900 inhab., whose wealth consists in the orchards and vineyards around. The best wine of the Berg- Baden. ROUTE 105. — HEIDELBERG. 529 strasse is the Hubberger, which grows near Weinheim. Above the town is the castle of Windeck, remarkable for its cylindrical donjon tower. The railroad beyond Weinheim takes a bend to the S. W. away from the Bergstrasse, and makes direct for the Neckar. Gross-Sachsen Stat. Beyond this Ladenburg Stat., a town with walls and towers, and a handsome church (St. Galhis), on the rt. bank of the Neckar, which the Railway here crosses by a fine bridge. Friedrichsfeld Stat. — Junction here with the Railway from Mannheim to Heidelberg, from which places this stat. is nearly equally distant. Schwetzin- gen Gardens are 1^- m. off (p. 516) ; the ruined castle of Strahlenberg, above the town of Schriessheim, may be discerned on the 1. Heidelberg is hidden from view until you are just opposite to it. Heidelberg Stat., about J m. out- side the Klingel Thor. — Inns : Hotel Schrieder, near the railway terminus, comfortable, good view ; — P. Karl, in the market-place, near the Castle ; — Badischer Hof ; — H. de Hollande, near the bridge ; — Adler, near the P. Karl, clean and moderate. If pressed for time, you may walk in ^ hr. from the railway by the Klingel Thor, thence along the inside of the town wall to the Castle ; returning down the footpath into the Karlsplatz, and through the town back to the Rail- way. From the great Ch. a street leads N. in 5 min. to the Bridge, which is a fine point of view. The beauty of the Bergstrassc has been perhaps exaggerated ; that of Heidelberg cannot be too much ex- tolled ; it is charmingly situated on the 1. bank of the Neckar, on a narrow ledge between the river and the castle rock. It is almost limited to a single street, nearly 3 m. long, from the Rail- way Stat, to the Heilbronn gate. It has 15,000 inhab., half Rom. Catholics. Few towns in Europe have experienced to a greater extent, or more frequently, the horrors of war, than the ill-starred Heidelberg. Previous to the Thirty Years' War it displayed in its buildings [n. g.] all the splendour arising from flourish- ing commerce and the residence of the court of the Electors Palatine of the Rhine. It has been 5 times bom- barded, twice laid in ashes, and thrice taken by assault and delivered over to pillage. In 1622 (the fatal period of the Thirty Years' War) the ferocious Tilly took the town by storm after a cruel siege and bombardment of nearly a month, and gave it up to be sacked for 3 days together. The garrison re- treated into the castle, headed by an Englishman named Herbert ; but the death of their commander, who was shot, compelled them to surrender in a few days. The Imperial troops retained possession of the place for 1 1 years ; after which it was retaken by the Swedes, who were hardly to be pre- ferred as friends to the Imperialists as foes. But Heidelberg wag destined to suffer far worse evils from the French. In 167 4- the Elector Charles Louis incurred the displeasure of Louis XIV. ; and a French army, under Turenne, was in consequence let loose upon the Palatinate, carrying slaughter, fire, and desolation before it. The Elector be- held with distress, from the castle in which he had shut hiniself up, the inroads of foreign troops, and flame and smoke rising up along the plain from burning towns and villages, Unable to oppose the French with equal force at the head of an army, but anxious to avenge the wrongs of his country, he resolved, in a spirit which some may deem Quixotic, others chivalrous, to endeavour to end the contest with his own sword, Accordingly he sent a cartel to Marshal Turenne, challenging him to single combat. * The French general returned a civil answer, but did not accept it. The ambition of Louis XIV. led him, on the death of the Elector, to lay claim to the Palatinate on behalf of the Duke of Orleans ; and another French army, more wicked than the first, was marched across the Rhine. Heidelberg was taken and burnt, 1688, by Melac, a general whose brutality and cruelty surpassed that of Tilly, But it was at the following siege, under Chamilly, in 1693, that it was reserved for the French to display 2 A 530 ROUTE 105.— HEIDELBERG. UNIVERSITY, ETC. Sect. VIII. the most merciless tyranny, and prac- tise excesses "worthy of fiends rather than men, upon the town and itsinhab., paralleled only in the French Revolu- tion, and which will ever render the name of Frenchman odious in the Palatinate. The castle was betrayed through the cowardice or treachery of the governor, with the garrison, and many of the townspeople who had fled to it for refuge. The cruelty of the treatment they met with was, in this instance, heightened by religious intol- erance, and no mercy was shown to the Protestants. On this occasion the castle was entirely ruined. The University, founded 1386, is one of the oldest in Germany : the number of students is about 700. It is as a school of law and medicine that Hei- delberg is most distinguished. Many of the professors at the present time are men of great reputation I Gmelin, dis- tinguished in natural history and che- mistry ; Tiedemann, in anatomy ; Paulus, in theology ; Mittermeyer, in criminal law. Gervinus and Schlosser reside here in retirement. As an edifice the University is not remarkable. It is a plain and not very large house in the small square (Lud- wigs Platz) near the middle of the town. The Library, in a building by itself, consists of 120,000 volumes, be- sides MSS. A portion of the famous Palatine Library, which was carried off by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years' War, and sent to the Vatican as a present to the Pope, and as a trophy of the success of the Catholic cause, was restored to Heidelberg by Pope Pius VII. in 1815. The volumes sent back, 890 in number, relate principally to German history. It is related that Tilly, being in want of straw after taking the castle, littered his cavalry with books and MSS. from the library of the Elector, at that time one of the most valuable in Europe. The curiosi- ties of this collection as it at present stands are, — a Codex of the Greek Anthology, 11th cent.; MSS. ofThucy- dides and Plutarch, of the 10 th and 1 1th, and many autographs of remark- able persons ; Luther's MS. translation of Isaiah ; his Exhortation to Prayer against the Turks ; and a copy of the Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by him ; the Prayer-book of the Electress Elizabeth (James I.'s daughter) ; a Mass-book, ornamented with minia- tures, by John Dentzel of Ulm, 1499. The library is freely open to all persons for 2 hrs. daily, except on Sundays. The Anatomical and Zoological Mu- seums are placed in a building in the suburb, formerly a Dominican convent. Several professors have good Private Collections • the best are Creuzers' ca- binet of antiquities ; Leonhard's fossils and minerals, particularly rich in spe- cimens illustrative of the geology of this part of Germany ; and Professor Bronn's fossils of the neighbourhood of Heidelberg. There is also a dealer in minerals, the produce of the neighbour- ing district, at No. 211, Schiffgasse. The Museum Club (§ 44), opposite the University, contains reading, ball, and concert rooms, well supplied with papers and journals. Neither the public nor private build- ings in the town are at all remarkable in an architectural point of view, chiefly owing to the destruction caused by repeated sieges. One house, however, survives, which in the richly decorated facade, ornamented with statues, coats of arms, &c, may give some notion of former splendour ; it is the inn called Zum Bitter, from the figure of a knight on the top : it was built in 1592. It stands in the market-place, near the Church of the Holy Ghost, in which many electors and counts palatine were buried. Their fine monuments were destroyed by the French in 1793, when neither reverence for the dead nor the sacredness of the building prevented it becoming the scene of slaughter and sacrilege. The church is divided by a partition wall between the Catholics and Protestants, and the two services are performed under the same roof. The resistance of the townspeople to one of the electors, who wanted to deprive the Protestants of their half of this church, occasioned him to remove the Electoral court from Mannheim in 1719-20. The Ch. of St. Peter is remarkable as being the oldest in the town, and Heidelberg to Baden. ROUTE 105. HEIDELBERG CASTLE. 531 because Jerome of Prague, the com- panion of Huss, attached to its door his celebrated theses, which he maintained, at the same time expounding the Re- formed doctrines to a large multitude of hearers assembled in the adjoining churchyard. Here also is the simple tomb of Olimpia Morata, who com- bined the feminine grace and beauty of a woman with the intellect and learn- ing of a philosopher. Persecuted as a heretic in Italy, the land of her birth, she was forced to fly, along with her husband, a German, and at length settled at Heidelberg, where she de- livered lectures to a large and admiring audience. Her extraordinary acquire- ments in learning, her beauty, misfor- tunes, and early death, shed a peculiar interest upon her grave. The objects of greatest interest here are the Castle, and the views of the Rhine and Neckar valley. The Castle, anciently the residence of the Electors Palatine, presenting the combined character of a palace and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. The building displays the work of various hands, the taste of different founders, and the styles of successive centuries : it is highly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque situation, its vastness, and the relics of architectural magnificence which it still displays, after having been three times burnt, and having ten times experienced the horrors of war. Its final ruin, how- ever, did not arise from those causes ; but after the greater part of the build- ing had been restored to its former splendour in 1718-20, it was set on fire by lightning in 1764 ; and since the total conflagration which ensued, it has never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is at present only a collection of red stone walls, and has remained roofless for nearly a century. It is approached by a carriage-road from behind, and by a winding foot-path on the side of the Neckar. The oldest part remaining is probably that built by the Electors Rudolph and Rupert. It has all the character of a stronghold of the middle ages, and the teeth of the portcullis still project from beneath the archway leading to it. The Friedrichsbau, named from the Elector, who built it in 1607, is distinguished by excessive richness of decoration : its facade to the S. is ornamented with statues of ancestors of the Electoral family from Charle- magne. The part of the building.most deserving of admiration, for the good taste of its design and the elegance of its decorations, is that which overlooks the river, and extends along the E. side of the quadrangle (g in the plan), built by Otto Henry (1556), in the style called cinque-cento, which is allied to the Elizabethan of England. The statues of heroes from sacred and pro- fane history, which decorate the front, though of (keuper) sandstone, are by no means contemptible as works of art. The English traveller will view with some interest that part of the castle called the English Palace (s), from its having been built for the reception of the Princess Elizabeth Stuart, daughter of James L, and grand-daughter of Mary Queen of Scots. The triumphal arch (#), having pillars entwined with ivy-leaves, was erected by her husband, the Elector Frederick V., afterwards King of Bohemia, to celebrate their nuptials; it led to the flower-garden which he caused to be laid out for her pleasure, and it still goes by the name of Elizabethen Pforte. " When her husband hesitated to ac- cept the crown of Bohemia, this high- hearted wife exclaimed, ' Let me rather eat dry bread at a king's table than feast at the board of an elector :' and it seemed as if some avenging demon hovered in the air to take her literally at her word ; for she and her family lived to eat dry bread — ay, and to beg it before they ate it ; but she would be a queen." — Mrs. Jameson. The granite pillars supporting the canopy of the well (n) in the corner of the court of the castle are said by some to have been brought from Charlemagne's pa- lace at Ingelheim, though they are un- doubtedly derived from the quarry in the Odenwald. (See p. 526.) In a cellar under the castle (e, /) is the famous Heidelberg Tun, constructed 1751 ; it is the largest wine-cask in the world, 36 ft. long and 24 ft. high ; being capable of holding 800 hogsheads, 2 a2 532 ROUTE 105. —HEIDELBERG CASTLE. Sect. VIII. a a a. "Footpath leading up to the Castle. b. Carriage-road. c. Platform or Terrace. d. Building of Frederick IV. (1607). The statues in the facade are ancestors of the reign- ing house of Bavaria, from Charlemagne and Otho of Wittelsbaeh. e. Cellar containing the Tun. f. Entrance to it. g. Building of Otho Henry, or Ritter Saal, begun 15.56, finished 1550. This is the finest portion of the Castle ; it is in the best style of Italian nrchitecture, and the scnlpture with which it is decorated is of high merit. h. Octagon Tower (1525)., first struck by the lightning which finally consumed the Castle in 1764. i. Library Tower. li, Frederick II. s Buildings (15-19). L Oldest part of the Castle, begun in 1300 by the Elector Rudolph. m.. Kupert's Building, begun 1400. n. Well, under a Canopy supported by pil- lars brought from Ingelheim (of Odenwald granite). o. Grand Gateway rl355), with Portcullis. f. The Hknvn-up Tower. q. The Gate raised in honour of the English Princess Klizabeth, daughter of James I. : her great-sirandson was George I. r. The Garden. s. The English Building erected for the Prin- ces Elizabeth, by her husband the Elector Frederick IV. (1607). f. Tower built by Elector Lewis V. U33. Its walls are 22 ft. thick. It was destroyed by the French, 1689. Baden. EOUTE 105. — HEIDELBERG. KO.\ T IGSTUHL, 533 or 283,200 bottles, which is far less, after all, than the dimensions of one of the porter vats of a London brewer. In former days, when the tun was filled with the produce of the vintage, it was usual to dance on the platform on the top. It has, however, remained empty since 1769, more than half a century. One of the' towers which formed the outer defences of the Castle (der ges- prengte Thurm) (p), was undermined and blown up by the French ; but so thick were the walls, and so strongly built, that, though nearly the whole of one side was detached by the explosion, instead of crumbling to pieces it merely slid down from its place, in one solid mass, into the ditch, where it still re- mains. Subterranean passages, for the most part still preserved and accessible, extend under the ramparts. The Gardens (originally laid out by the engineer Solomon de Caus) and Shrubberies round the castle, and the adjoining Terrace to the eastward, afford the most agreeable walks and splendid points of view it is possible to conceive over the Neckar, issuing out of its vine-clad valley, and winding- through a plain of the utmost fertility to join the Rhine, which appears here and there in distant flashes glittering in the sun. Spires and towers proclaim the existence of cities and villages almost without number, and the land- scape is bounded by the outline of the Vosges mountains. The best general View of the Castle may be obtained from the extremity of the terrace raised upon arches, and pro- jecting over the Neckar. The build- ing, however, is so grand an object, and the surrounding country so exceedingly beautiful, that the stranger will hardly be satisfied with seeing it from one point. He should mount the heights on the rt. bank of the Neckar, either by a path leading from the end of the bridge, which is steep, or by a more gradual ascent from Neuenheim. An agreeable path, easily accessible, called the Philosopher's Walk, conducts along the slope of the hill fronting the town. The hill behind it, which stands in the angle between the valley of the Rhine and Neckar, called the Meiligcnberg y presents a more extensive prospect. On the top are ruins of a castle and church of St. Michael, which succeeded to a Roman fort built on the spot. In 1391 the wild sect called Flagellants made a pilgrimage to this holy moun- tain, clad in black, and wearing a white cross in front and behind. In the Thirty Years' "War Tilly opened his trenches to bombard the town from this point. About 50 yards above the bridge,, on the rt. bank, in a solitary inn called Hirschgasse, the students' duels are fought. 4 or 5 sometimes take place in a day ; and it is no uncommon thing for a student to have been engaged in 25 or 30, as principal, in the course of 4 or 5 years. The Konigstuhl, the highest hill in this district, lies "behind the town and castle. The summit may be reached in 1 or 1^ hr.'s walk, or in a carriage, and the view is the most extensive in the neighbourhood. A lofty tower has deen erected for the convenience of visitors, who often repair hither to see the sun rise, and if possible to extend the limits of the panorama, which in- cludes the valleys of the Rhine and Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt Moun- tains on the W., the T annus on the N.W., the ridge of the Black Forest on the S., with the Castle of Eberstein- berg, near Baden, and the spire of Strasburg Minster, 90 m. off. Tilly bombarded the town from this hill, after his attack from the rt. bank had failed : remains of his trenches are still visible. There is a small tavern near the top,, called Kohlhof, where persons anxious to see the sun rise sometimes pass the night previously. The banks of the Neckar above Heidelberg are very interesting, and afford many pleasant excursions — one of the most agreeable being to Neckar- gcmiind (Inn, Pfalz), 6 m. off; the excursion may be agreeably prolonged to Neckar Steinach> on the rt. bank (Inn, Die Harfe). The course of the Ncckar is described in the Handbook for S. Germany. (Rte. 159.) A road, overlooking the Ncckar, runs from the castle along the shoulder of 534 ROUTE 105. LANGEXBBUCKEN". DURLACH. Sect. VIII. the hill to- the Wolfs Brunnen, an agreeable walk of 2 m. It is a pretty retired nook, named from a spring which rises there. There is a small inn close to it, famed for its beer and trout (kept in great numbers, and fattened in ponds and tanks ; many of them attain a large size). Here, according to tradition, the enchantress Jetta, who lived on the spot, and first foretold the greatness of the house of the Pala- tinate, was torn in pieces by a wolf. You may return hence to Heidelberg by the road along the margin of the river. At Handschuhsheim, about 2 m. on the road to Darmstadt, is one of the most extensive collections in Europe of Mexican Antiquities, belonging to Herr IThde. The cherries of Dossenheim, a village about 2 m. beyond Handschuhsheim, on the Bergstrasse, are sent by steam- boats to the London market. At the village of Neuenheim, which is on the rt. bank of the JSTeckar, nearly opposite to the railway station, in a house that goes by the name of Monch- hof, according to an obscure tradition, Luther was lodged when he passed through Heidelberg in 1518. Droskies may be hired for excursions in and around the town. Heidelberg is a cheap place of resi- dence, provisions being moderate and abundant. An English gentleman, who resided here in 1834, states his expenses for the year to have been but 380/., including horses, carriage, house-rent, and servants. Eilwdgen, daily, to Heilbronn in 7 hrs., to Stuttgard in 12, and to Wiirz- burg in 15 (Rte. 110). Railways : — to Mannheim ; trains in 35 min., stopping at Friedrichsfeld, which is the junction station of the Frankfurt and Darmstadt railway. The Baden Railway — Heidelberg to Bale, with branches to Baden-Baden and Kehl (opposite Strasburg) : trains to Carlsruhe in 1-J hrs. ; Baden 3 hrs. Kehl iu 5 hrs. ; to Freiburg in 7 hrs Haltringen, 8 m. from Bale, in 9 hrs. the 2nd-class carriages are commo- dious, with stuffed seats, and quite respectable. Steamboats on the Neckar to Heil- bronn, in 13 or 14 hrs., descending in 7 or 8. (See Handbook S. Germany, Ete. 159.) St. Ilgen Stat. The country to the S. of Heidelberg scarcely retains any trace of the beauty of the Bergstrasse, but the line is carried through a flat but fertile coun- try, with a range of hills to the east- ward. "Wiesloch Stat. rt. The large build- ing called Kisslau was formerly a Ducal Palace, but is now a State Prison. Langenbriicken Stat. — Inn, Post. Here are sulphur baths. The establish- ment is well managed ; the house large, commodious, and well furnished. There is a table-d'hote and music, as usual at German watering-places. (§ 41.) The temperature of the springs ranges be- tween 50° and 60° Fahr. ; they are strongly impregnated with sulphur and sulphuretted hydrogen gas, being in their taste and smell very similar to those of Buxton. Bruchsal Stat. — Inns : Poste, good ; Badischer Hof, best ; Zahringer Hof. This inanimate town of 7200 inhab. formerly belonged to the Prince-Arch- bishops of Spire, whose vast Palace, now empty, stands near the gate lead- ing to Frankfurt. Travellers going to Munich and the Tyrol, by the most direct road, leave the railroad at Bruchsal. The road from Bruchsal to Stuttgart joins that from Carlsruhe to Stuttgart at Illingen. Weingarten Stat. Durlach Stat., once the residence of the Margraves of Baden-Durlach, now the reigning family since the extinction of the line of Baden-Baden, 1771. An old ruined castle upon a height of the Thurmberg was the cradle of the faniily in its infancy. The more recent Cha- teau or Palace in the town is now deserted and half pulled down ; what remains is turned into a cavalry bar- rack. In the gardens are some Roman altars and milestones, found in the neighbourhood. Eilndgen hence to Wildbad in tf hrs. After passing (rt.) Gottesau. once a convent, row an artillery barrack, we Baden. ROUTE 105. — CARLSRUHE. 535 reach the handsome buildings which compose the Carlsruhe Stat. — Inns: Post (Gold- enes Kreutz), table-d'hote, 1 fl., in- cluding wine ; Erbprinz, good; H. d'An- gleterre ; Pariser Hof ; Hof von Hol- land. There are very good baths in the town. Carlsruhe, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Baden, the seat of government and of the Chambers of Representatives, and residence of the court and foreign ministers, contains 22,000 inhab. It is a pretty but rather dull town, and one of the youngest capitals of Germany, as it was not begun till 1715. It owes its origin, not to any fitness in the situation for trade or manufactures, but solely to the accident of the Margrave Charles of Baden build- ing a hunting-seat on the spot, which he fixed on from its seclusion and retirement, the surrounding country being at the time an almost uninter- rupted forest. He called this retreat " Charles's Rest." In a few years, however, his solitude was invaded by other dwellings, and converted into a populous settlement, and the hunting- lodge became the nucleus of a new city, which derived from it the name of Karls-ruhe. It is regularly built, in the form of a fan, or rather of a wheel. The main streets, like the spokes, all radiate from the palace, which termi- nates the vista in every street ; so that the citizens who wish " to know which way the wind blows," must necessarily look to the palace weathercock. The streets are provided with trottoirs, a rare convenience in German towns, of which neither Vienna nor Munich can boast. Prom the railway you enter Carls- ruhe by the Ettlinger Gate, and pass, in traversing the street leading to the palace, the monuments of the Grand Duke Karl (d. 1818), a bust ; Lewis (d. 1830), a statue • and that of the Margrave Charles William, founder of Carlsruhe, a pyramid of red sand- stone, with a neat inscription. The 2 last are in the market-place on the "W side of which is the Bathhaus, on the E. the Protestant Oh., and further on, in the court-yard of the palace, is the statue of the Grand Duke Karl Fre- derick (d. 1811), by Schwanthaler. The Polytechnic school was built by Hiibsch in 1836. Over the portal are statues of Keppler and Erwin von Steinbach. The Palace or Schloss presents no- thing remarkable. The view from the turret which surmounts it, called The Bleithvrm, deserves to be seen, as it will give a correct notion of the singu- lar plan on which Carlsruhe is built. The town is nearly surrounded by the Haardt Forest, which is intersected by roads radiating from the palace, and corresponding with the streets of the town. Beyond this are seen the sil- very windings of the Rhine, and be- hind it the Vosges Mountains, in France ; while to the S. the pic- turesque outline of the Black Forest mountains, and on the N. those of the Bergstrasse, complete the panorama. The Theatre attached to the palace is open 3 times a week. The building is plain in its exterior, but is well fitted up within. The Estates or Parliament of Baden hold their sittings here : their debates are open to the public. One of the finest buildings is the Academie Gebdude, erected by Hiibsch, 1843, of grey sandstone, with stripes of red. It is decorated with frescoes by Schwind, and contains a collection of paintings. There are— a portrait of Colbert, Ph. de Champagne • 2 por- traits by Van der Heist ; many Dutch pictures ; and a medallion portrait of Newton, by de Witte. Those of the old masters are of 2nd rate value, but there are good specimens of tbe modern German school : Achenbach, Dietz, Schwind. There is a Museum of Natural His- tory, on the rt. of the palace, rich in fossil remains ; a large portion of the skeleton of a mammoth was dug up at Oos. Carlsruhe also possesses a library of 90,000 vols, and a botanic garden. The Palace Gardens and those called Amaliensruhe, which are thrown open to the public, afford agreeable walks. Another pleasant short walk is to the village of Biertheim, where there are good baths. 536 ROUTE 105. — RASTADT. Sect. VIII. A noble avenue of Lombardy pop- lars, the oldest and highest in Germany, none being under 90 ft., and some more than 120 ft. high, 2 m. long, leads to- wards Durlach. Stultz, the celebrated tailor, is the founder of an hospital in this town, near the Muhlberg gate, which he en- dowed with a sum of 100,000 fl. ; he was in consequence created a baron. In the shops of Franz Noldeke and M. Bielefeld will be found a number of interesting publications, engravings of all sorts, with guide-books, and views of the Rhine, and of Baden, &c. The Club (§ 44) is called the Mu- seum ; strangers may be admitted to it by a member. M. Noldeke will intro- duce English strangers. All the Ger- man, many French, and a few English papers are taken in here. In the Friedhof is the grave of Jung Stilling, who died here 1817. Eilwagen twice daily to Stuttgart in 7 1 hrs. ; to Augsburg in 25 ; to "Wild- bad in 6-J ; to Zweibriicken in 11^; to Landau in 3-^ ; to Pforzheim in 3. Railway continued. — About 2 m. from Carlsruhe, on the rt. of the railroad, is Bulach, where is a modern Romanesque Ch., with 2 towers, built by Hiibsch, 1838. The interior contains frescoes by Dietrich of Stuttgart. Ettlingen Stat. Malsch Stat. Muggensturm Stat. The Duchy of Baden is one of the most fertile districts in Germany, and that part of it through which the railroad passes produces tobacco in large quantities, maize, hops, hemp, and flax, besides every species of grain, It is a country of wine also, and oil, as the hills are clothed with vineyards, and the roads are shaded by luxuriant walnut-trees, from the nuts of which an excellent and clear oil is pressed, nearly as good for culinary pivrposes as fine olive-oil. The agricultural pea- santry in this country commonly wear cocked-hats, even in the fields, — a sin- gular decoration for a ploughboy. Rastadt Stat. — Inns : Badischer Hof ; Goldenes Kreutz. This town, of 7000 inhab, on the Murg, is a dull place, but has been converted into a strong Fortress of the German -Con- federation, as a frontier defence against France. The Palace, built by the eccentric Margravine Sibylla (see below), is a large edifice of red sandstone. It was the residence of the last Margraves of Baden, but is now uninhabited, and has a deserted and decaying appearance. Its design is on the whole handsome ; and it has a further claim to attention, because 2 Congresses, important in the annals of Europe, have assembled under its roof: one in 1714, when Marshal Villars and Prince Eugene signed a treaty of peace in the small unpainted cabinet, its walls stained with ink-spots, still pointed out to visitors ; the second, in 1797-99, which was terminated abruptly by the mys- terious murder of the French envoys, Roberjot and Bonnier, as they were quitting the town, after a conference. No satisfactory light has ever been thrown upon the instigators or perpe- trators of this foul assassination, and direct violation of the law of nations, committed, it is supposed, in the ex- pectation of finding secret and important papers on the persons of the victims. About 10 min. walk outside the Rhei- nau gate a monument marks the spot where the French deputies were mur- dered. The Picture Gallery (so called) is filled with a great deal of trash ; but in another apartment are preserved the Turkish trophies, horsetail stand- ards, arms, &c, gained by the Mar- grave Louis in his successful cam- paigns against the Turks, together with the armom- he wore, and his portrait. In further testimony of his successful valour, whole-length portraits of 4 Circassian slaves are pointed out. They formed part of the victor's share of the booty, and accompanied him home. How they were received by the lady Sibylla his wife, does not appear to be known. Many of these things were stolen by the revolutionary blackguards who called themselves Freischaren, who got possession of Rastadt in 1849. After leaving the Rastadt Stat, the railway crosses the river Murg, and a Baden. ROUTE 105. RA8TADT, THE FAVOURITE. 537 tlittle further passes at about ^ m. on the 1. the Favourite, an old-fashioned and deserted chateau of the Margraves of Baden, built by the Margravine Sibylla, wife of the heavy Louis of Baden, who fought against the Turks along with Prince Eugene. It is nei- ther large nor very handsome, and any splendour it may originally have pos- sessed is faded and decayed. It is chiefly interesting as illustrating the manners and tastes of former days, and from the singular character of Sibylla, its founder. In her youth she was very handsome, and not a little vain of her beauty ; as a proof of which she has left in her boudoir 60 or 70 portraits of herself, in as many different cos- tumes. The old-fashioned furniture of the chateau, orignally tawdry rather than tasteful, is nearly worn out. There are no works of art in the house ; but one or two old cabinets filled with glass, and some singular Delft ware in the forms of birds and beasts, are kept in the lower rooms. In the garden of the chateau is an odd, many-sided build- ing, resembling a Chinese temple : this was Sibylla's Chapel. A youth of fri- volity seems, in her case, to have ter- minated in an old age of bigotry and superstition. Before an altar within it, in a chamber designedly rendered as gloomy as a dungeon, she spent the greater part of her days and nights, during the latter years of her life, in- flicting upon herself all kinds of priva- tions and penances. Here is still pre- served the scourge of whipcord, ending in wire points (like a cat-o'-nine- tails), with which she used to discipline herself ; also, her hair shirt, and a cross of wire net-work, with points turned inward, which she wore next her skin, while 2 circular pieces of the same were placed for her to kneel upon.. Her bed was a thin rush mat, laid on the floor ; and her only companions were 2 wooden figures, as large as life, of the Virgin and St. John. These were her guests, and with them she used to sit down to table ; equal portions of every meal being served to all three j but their share was afterwards given to the poor. The Favourite is about 6- m. from Baden. Oos Stat. — A branch Railway di- verges hence to Baden 3 m. E. (Bte. 10G.) The railway then crosses the Oos rivulet. » Sinzheim Stat. Steinbaeh Stat, at the foot of the hill of Yburg, the birthplace of Erwin,. the architect of Strasburg Minster. Buhl Stat.— Inn, Post. Ottersweier Stat. Here the valley of Hub opens out on the E. ; within it lie the Hubbad and the ruined Castle of Windeck. Achern Stat. — At Sassbach, 2 m. 1. of the railroad, stands an obelisk of granite, erected in- 1829, by the French, to mark the spot where their great General Tu- renne was killed by a cannon ball, while reconnoitring the Austrian army, 27th July, 1675. This is the 4th mo- nument which has been set up to his memory, the others having been de- stroyed. His death arrested instantly the success of the French arms, no ge- neral in his army being found capable of following up his plans.. The most contradictory and futile orders were issued ; till the troops, discouraged by inaction and failure, exclaimed in irony,. " Lachez la pie (the piebald charger of Turenne, upon which he had so- often led them to victory); elle nous conduira." The bowels of Turenne were interred in the little chapel of St. Nicholas ; his body was conveyed, tq France.. [An interesting excursion may bo- made by Ober- Achern, Cappel, and Ot- tenhofen,. to the ruins of the Abbey of Allerheiligen (All Saints), destroyed, by fire 1803. (Inn, beim Forster.) Below the convent the hill has been cleft by a zigzag fissure for 400 ft. ; through this chasm a stream forces its way in numerous falls J A little beyond this the railroad crosses the Bench, a stream descending from the Kniebis. Renchen Stat. Appenweier Stat. A railway here branches off rt. to Kehl (Strasburg), 2 Germ. m. — 9\ Eng. nu Travellers bound for Strasburg, and going after- wards to Freiburg or Schaffhausen, will find it convenient to go on to Offbnburg, and, leaving their baggage there, tQ 2 A 3 538 ROUTE 105. — OFFENBURG. FREIBURG. Sect VIII. return thence to Strasburg. They may deposit it at M. Pfaehler's (of the Fortuna) new establishment, opposite the station, without incurring any extra expense. [A road goes from Appenweier over the Kniebis to Freudenstadt and Stuttgart (39 m.) by Oberkirch, 2 m. from which is the fine Gothic Ch. of Lautenbach (built 1471), Oppe- nau (Inn, Krone : not a regular post station, but will supply horses), and 3 Freudenstadt, From Appenweier an Eilwagen to Bippoldsau, the last place in Baden on this road, in 6 hrs,] rt, The spire of Strasburg Minster is visible. 1, The well-preserved Castle of Staufenberg, built in the 11th cent., by a Bp, of Strasburg, crowns a distant eminence. Offenburg Stat. — Inn, La Fortuna (Pfaehler's) ; very good : a capital cuisine, and a clever and obliging host, who iinderstands English, He is also a wine-merchant, and his Zeller and Klingelberger wines, grown near this, are very good ; the price of a cask varies from 12?. to 15/. La Poste. In going from Frankfurt to Basle, or vice versei, the traveller may dine very com- fortably at the Offenburg Stat., as ^ hr. is allowed, Dinners from the 1st May to the end of October, at the Stat., by Pfaehler, of the Fortuna Hotel. Offenburg is a town of 3700 inhab., situated at the entrance of the valley of the Kinzig, through which runs the direct road from Strasburg to Schaff- hausen (Bte. 108). The modern Go- thic Castle of Ortenburg, at the mouth of the Kinzig Thai (See Bte. 108), is 2 m. distant, It has been built by a Russian nobleman at a cost of 30,000/. Strasburg is about 12 m. distant. The railway then crosses the Kinzig. Nieder-Schopiheim Stat, Friesenheim Stat. Dinglingen Stat.— Inn, Post; good and cheap. 1^ m. E. lies Lahr (Post ; Sonne), a flourishing and industrious town, on the Schutter. W. beyond the Bhine appears the outline of the Vosges Mountains, E, the red sand- stone cliffs of the Black Forest. On a steep conical hill rise the ruins of Schloss Hohengeroldseck, destroyed by the French, 1697. Kippenheim Stat. The village of Kippenheim is the birthplace of Mr. (afterwards baron) Stultz, the tailor : a neat monument of cast-iron has been set up by the road- side to his memory. Orschweier Stat. Beyond this the railroad crosses the Ettenbach, and here, a little to the E. of the railroad, is Ettenheim, where a party of French emigrants, among whom was the Due d'Enghien, were seized, 1804, by 2 columns of troops sent by Napoleon across the Bhine, who, thus committed a breach of the law of nations, and a violation of the territory of the German Confederation. The Didce was inhumanly shot 6 days after, at Yin- cennes, Herbolzheim Stat. Kenzingen Stat. — Inn, Lachs (Sal- mon) ; good and clean. Eiegel Stat, rt, The Kaiserstuhl, an isolated, volcanic, hilly range, fertile and thickly peopled, rises out of the plain of the Bhine : S. "W. of this place, the railway bends E. to avoid it, pass- ing between it and the Black Forest range. The summits of the Bellchen and Blauen are conspicuous. Emmendingen Stat. 1. beyond the town, the Castle of Hochburg, one of the most extensive ruins in Germany, appears. Denzlingen Stat. About 3 m. N. of Freiburg, on the 1., is the ruined Castle of the Counts of Zahringen, founders of the reigning family of Baden. From the ruins a beautiful view is obtained over the sur- rounding district, called the Breisgau ; for nearly 500 years a province of Aus- tria, but ceded to Baden by the Peace of Presburg, 1805. Freiburg Stat. — (Inns: Zahringer Hof, very good ; Engel (Angel) ; Goldner Lowe (Golden Lion) ; Pfau (Peacock) Sauvage (Wilder Mann), very fair Hotel Fohrenbach, close to the railway H. d'Allemagne). This, the ancient capital of the Breisgau, is situated in one of the prettiest spots on the out- skirts of the Black Forest, at the mouth of the Hollenthal (Valley of Hell), upon Baden. route 105. — freiburg. minster, university. 539 the Drcisam, runlets from which are carried through all the streets. It has 15,000 inhah. (1500 Protestants re- cently settled here). The Minster is remarkahle as hcing almost the only large Gothic church in Germany which is finished, and which has escaped destruction from fire or the violence of war. It is equally admired for the delicate symmetry of its proportions, and the good taste of its decorations. It owes its existence, partly to the munificence of the princes of Zahringen ; but also to the zeal and liberality of the citizens of Freiburg, who taxed themselves to the utmost, and made great sacrifices to complete it. The architect's name is unknown; Erwin of Steinbach, who built Stras- burg, may have been his pupil. It was begun under Conrad III., of Zahringen, 1152. The nave, "W. front, tower, and rich porch below it, date from 1236-72, and are by far the finest part of the building ; the choir is infe- rior, and of a later period, 1513. The oldest parts are the transepts, together with -their external turrets, in the round style. The W. tower, 380 ft. high, one of the very few of the kind ever com- pleted, exhibits a skilful transition from a square base into an octagon, which is surmounted by a pyramidal spire of the most exquisite open-work tracery, all of stone, of extreme bold- ness as well as lightness. The ascent of the tower (6 kr.) gives a good idea of the beauty of the building : — the view is better from the Schlossberg. Beneath the tower is the main en- trance into the church, by a magnificent portal, richly ornamented with sculp- tures. The portal leading into the choir from the N. also deserves atten- tion ; the sculptures below the arch represent the Creation by the Deity in the form of an old man, shaping the sun, moon, and stars out of balls, and breathing life into Adam. The interior of the church contains the monument and armed effigy of Berchtold V., last Duke of Zahringen (1228) ; a curious carved pulpit, the work of George Kcmpf, 1561; and a singular piece of sculpture of the Lord's Supper, consisting of 13 figures, by an artist named Hauscr, 1561. The win- dows are filled with stained glass, of beautiful colours ; the oldest is of the 15th cent.; that of the choir, supe- rior in point of drawing, dates only from the beginning of the 16th. That in St. Alexander's or the Miners' Chapel, is from designs of Baldung Griin, 1515, and very fine. Some good modern painted glass has been inserted. In the chapel of St. Martin (Locher- ers), on the IS", of the choir, a remark- able carving in wood represents the Virgin, sheltering beneath her mantle a whole host of worshippers of all ranks, including popes, cardinals, bishops, &c., date 1520. Prior (Domprobst) Bcek- lin's chapel contains his monumental effigy in armour, and a Crucifix of silver, hammered and gilt, of Eastern work- manship. The painting over the high altar, set within an elegant Gothic framework, is by Hans Baldung Griin (an old painter of Gmiind in Swabia, d. 1552). The chief subject, in the centre when the doors are opened, is the Ascension of the Virgin and her Coronation by the First and Second Persons in the Trinity : on the shutters at either side are the 12 Apostles. The outside of these is occu- pied by 4 subjects — the Annunciation, Visitation of Elizabeth, Birth of Christ, and Flight into Egypt (perhaps the best). At the back of these paintings are others by B. Griin also, visible from the choir aisle, the chief piece being a row of portraits of magistrates' of Frei- burg. On the one side are St. George and St. Lawrence ; on the other, St. John Baptist and St. Jerome as a cardinal. It is curious, rather than beautiful, as a work of art. The University Chapel in the S. aisle contains 2 good pictures by Holbein, in his early style — a Nativity, and an Adoration of the Magi ; the latter very fine, especially the figure of the Vir- gin. It was painted for the Obcrriedt family, whose portraits are introduced below. The University, founded 1456, has only 228 students. It is the Roman ' Catholic seminary of the Grand Duchy of Baden. Heidelberg is Protestant. 540 ROUTE 105.— ALT-BREISACH. MINSTER. Sect, VIII. Freiburg is now the see of an arch- bishop. Near the gate leading to Frankfurt stands the Protestant Church, an ele- gant building in Romanesque (Byzan- tine) style, with an octagon tower. It was skilfully transferred, stone by stone, from an old convent at Thennenbach, 15 m. off in the forest, to which it was originally attached. The Kaufhaus, S. of the cathedral, is a very quaint Gothic building of the 16th cent,, resting on pointed arches, decorated externally with fresco por- traits gilt of the Empr. Maximilian, his son Philip I., Charles V., and Ferdinand I. The Gothic portal under the arcade exhibits a singular arrangement. 2 Gothic Fountains in the streets are worth notice, The town is flourishing from the wine and timber trade and the manufacture of chicory. There are delightful Walks round the castle hill {Schlossberg'), about J hr.'s walk from the minster. The ascent begins near the Schwaben Thor. The eye ranges over the vale of the Dreisam, bounded in the distance by the waving outline of the Black Forest Hills rising one be- hind another, The filagree work of the spire is seen from this to the greatest advantage. The beautiful scenery of the Hollen- tlial, on the way from Freiburg to Schaff- hausen, is described in Rte. 109. A traveller, not intending to pass through it on his way to Switzerland, should make an excursion from Freiburg as far as Steig, 11 m., to explore its beauties. Eiltcdgen daily to Schaffhausen in 11 hrs., and Constance in 18, through the Hollenthal; to ATUBreisach in 2^ hrs., and thence to Colmar — stat. on the rail- way. [16 m. W. of Freiburg, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, stands Alt-Breisach, a de- cayed town, once a frontier fortress, and the key of Germany on the W., but with nothing to show its former impor- tance save the Minster of St, Stephen, on a hill. It contains some monuments j and a silver shrine, which held the relics | of the martyrs Gervasius and Protasius, found by St. Ambrose at Milan, and placed by him in the Ch, of St, Ambro^ gio (Handbook K Italy, p. 168). Its chief curiosity, however, is its beautiful Altar Screen, carved in wood. The central compartment is occupied by the Coronation of the Virgin, a very mas- terly work of art, with the date 1526, and the monogram of the sculptor, Hans Leifrink, or Leychman. The l.-hand shutter bears the representation of the patron saints of the town ; the rt.-hand is occupied by St. Stephen and St. Lawrence. Below the centre the 4 Evangelists are grouped, composing their gospels. The whole is surmounted by pinnacles, that in the centre reaching up to the roof. A monument to the Grand Duke of Baden, Carl Frederick, has been placed on the top of the Eg- gardsberg, where once stood the Cita- del,'] The Baden Railway continues from Freiburg, near to the hills, to Schallstadt Stat. Krotzingen Stat., near which are the ruins of Staufenburg. Heitersheim "Stat. Miilheim Stat. {Inn, Krone). [About 3 m. E. of the railroad are the baths of Badenweiler {Inns : Romerbad ; Stadt Carlsruhe). The waters were known to the Romans, and the baths erected by them were discovered, 1748, in a very per- fect state of preservation. They consistof 4 large and 8 smaller baths, and include a vapour-bath, anointing-room, dress- ing-room, &c. They are regarded as the most perfect out of Rome, and are 324 ft. long by 100 broad. An inscrip- tion found on the spot proves that they were dedicated to Diana Abnoba. Ex- cursions maybe made to the castle of Biirglen, 6 m,, and to the top of the Blauen mountain (6 m.), 3597 ft. high, the loftiest in the district. The wine called Markgrafler, the best which Baden produces, is grown near this. Sulzburg, to the JST.E., was the birth- place of Schopflin the Reformer. At Neuenburg, 3 m. W. of Miilllieim, Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar died, 1639, poisoned, it was supposed, by Richelieu.] Schliengen Stat. Here an action was fought between Moreau and the Arch- duke Charles, 1796. Efringen Stat. Bade ROUTE 105. — BADEN-BADEN". 541 ■Haltingen Stat. Here at present (1851) the railway ends, 4 m. from Basle. When completed it will termi- nate 1^- m. from Basle, at Leopoldshohc, where the Baden custom-house is. Om- nibuses leaves Basle 1 hr. before the starting of the trains. Since Baden has adopted the Prussian custom-house system, the examination of the goods and person of travellers coming from Switzerland is strictly en- forced (§ 32). Luggage is examined about 3 m. from Basle. Basle. Handbook for Switzer- land. (Rte. 1.) ROUTE 106. CARLSRUHE [OOS] TO BADEN-BADEN — BRANCH RAILWAY. I Germ. m. = 3 Eng. m. This railroad branches off from the Great Baden railroad at the Oos stat. (Bte. 105, p. 537.) Beyond Oos the valley begins to contract and the hills to rise on either side. On the 1. the old castle of Baden is seen crowning the summit of a fir-clad hill. On the rt. rises the hill of Yburg, on which an- other castle is perched. Both of them were, perhaps, Roman forts originally. 1£ Baden (called Baden-Baden, to distinguish it from places of the same name in Switzerland and near Vienna). Inns: Badenscherllof (much frequented by the English), good — excellent tablc- d'hotc ; II. de 1' Europe, opposite- the Conversationshaus and Trinkhalle, con- taining 100 rooms — table-d'hote at 5, 1 fl. 12 kr. ; H. de Russie, clean and good ; II. d' Angleterre, the most fashionable, an excellent house ; H. de France ; II. du Rhin ; Zahringer Hof ; H. de Hol- lande. There are many other inns, and nearly =} of the houses in the town are let as lodgings, but do not provide dinners. The Sonne and Blume are respectable establishments of this class. The price of rooms varies, according to season and situation, from 3 fl. to 12 or 14 fl. a week. A bath costs 24 kr.=8^d ; a bed, 48 kr. to 1 fl. per night ; break- fast, 36 kr. Some of the inns are pro- vided with baths, but there is no build- ing here appropriated exclusively to bathing. There are tables - d'hote in all the principal inns at 1, price from 48 kr. to 1 fl., and at 5, chiefly to suit the English, at 1 fl. 12 or 24 kr.— at the Conversationshaus at 5, for 4 fr. The best wines of the country are Affenthaler (red), Klingelberger, and Markgraflcr. A dinner in private, 2 fl. 29 kr. = 5 fr. The price of everything is fixed by government, according to tariff, even down to washerwomen's charges. There can be but one opinion as to the beauty of the situation of the town of Baden, embosomed among hills form- ing an offset or commencement of the Black Forest range, and seated on the banks of the Oos, a stream which, though insignificant in size, once formed the boundary line between the Franks and Alemanni. The town has about 6000 permanent inhab., and is built chiefly on the slope of a hill, owing to the nar- rowness of the valley. The mineral springs were known to and appre- ciated by the Romans, who fixed a colony here, and called it Civitas Aurelia Aquensis. It was for 6 cent, the abode of the Margraves of Baden, until the incendiary devastation of the Palatinate by the French caused them to remove to Rastadt in the flat plain of the Rhine. At present the Grand Duke of Baden occasionally visits his Villa here, but resides principally during the summer at his Castle of Eberstein. Baden was once considered one of the most fashion- able German watering-places (§ 41). During the season princes may be met with in abundance, but are usually out- numbered by blacklegs. The influx and concourse of visitors has greatly in- creased of late, and, in consequence, the number of new inns and other build- ings has multiplied proportionately, but the place is falling off in respectable society. It has the attraction of being by far the most beautiful of the baths of North Germany in its situation, even sur- passing in this respect the Brunnen of Nassau. The surrounding country, without the sublimity and grandeur of Switzerland, is distinguished by a pleas- ing and romantic wildncss : it is, as it were, a prelude to the Alps. The neigh- bourhood will afford almost endless gra- tification in the beauty of its prospects and the mvmber and variety of the rides 542 ROUTE 106. — BADEN-BADEN. SPRINGS. Sect. VIII. and walks, cut for miles in every direc- tion through the forests and up the sur- rounding hills. Whatever he the taste or disposition of the traveller, he will assuredly find something to please him here. There are saloons, promenades, halls, concerts, gaming-tables, and other luxuries of a capital ; and, on the other hand, 20 dif- ferent paths, leading in 10 min. into the depths of dark woods or deep valleys, where he may enjoy solitude so com- plete that he may fancy himself far from the haunts of men. From the number of woods and avenues around, the in- valid may enjoy a shady walk at all hours, even in the height of summer. The months of July and August are the season when the baths are most fre- quented, but visitors are constantly coming and going from May to October, if the weather be fine. As many as 32,000 persons in the season of 1845 re- sorted to the baths. The number of English visitors increased so much of late that the place assumed the appear- ance of a settlement of our countrymen. This influx had the effect of diminishing its advantages of cheapness and retire- ment, as within a few years the price of everything was raised nearly one half. Now, however (1850), owing to over- building and a falling off in the number of visitors, arising from the recently disturbed state of Baden, prices have de- clined. After October the soil and cli- mate are extremely damp — the grassy banks are oozing with water, which the granitic substratum will not absorb, and the hotels and lodging - houses suffer greatly from moisture. The Hot Springs (13 in number) burst out of the rocks at the foot of the castle terrace, called Schneckengarten, behind the parish church. That part of the town goes by the name of " Hell," and in the coldest weather snow never rests upon it. Neither summer nor winter produces any variation in the tempera- ture of the springs. The hottest are 54° Reaum., the coldest 37°. Water from them is conveyed through the town in pipes, to supply the different baths, and loses little of its warmth in the passage ; but the supply greatly exceeds the de- mand, so that some of the sources are used by the townspeople to scald their pigs and poultry. A -building in the form of a temple is erected over the principal spring (Ursprung), one of the hottest as well as most copious sources. The vault of masonry which encloses the spring is of Roman construction. Several fragments of ancient sculpture, dug up in Baden and its neighbourhood, are preserved in the building — among them are votive tables and altars to Neptune, Mercury, and Juno. Neptune seems to have been the adopted patron of Baden and of this medicinal fountain. Remains of Boman vapour-baths, well preserved, were discovered in 1847 just beneath the new castle. One room is accessible. The mineral water which comes out of the rock was conducted by a canal to a subterraneous chamber of about 20 ft. in breadth and 40 in length, from which the vapour ascended to the bathing-room by a great many pipes which open all round its walls. The floor is supported by small columns 3 ft. hign. The Nexie Trinlihalle (i. e. Pump- room) on the public walks, and nearly on a line with the Conversationshaus, is one of the handsomest buildings in Baden. It is from Hiibsch's design, and is decorated with poor frescoes, repre- senting legends of the Black Forest. The hot water is conducted in pipes from the source, and other mineral waters, goat's whey, &c, are to be had. The company assembles here between 6^ and 7^- a.m. to drink the waters, and the band plays. A new building for vapour- baths has recently been constructed close to the Ursprung. On the 1. bank of the Oosbach, oppo- site to the town, are the Promenade and the Conversationshaus, a handsome building with a Corinthian portico, sur- rounded by gardens and pleasure-grounds, forming the lounge and chief resort — in fact, the grand focus of attraction for the visitors at Baden. It is one of the most splendid establishments of the kind in Germany, and includes a very fine and large assembly-room, where there is dancing 3 times a week, to which people repair in their morning dross, except on Saturday, when it is " bal pare." Gaming - tables are open and Baden. ROUTE 106. -BADEN-BADEN. NEUE SCHLOSS. 543 occupied day and night. There is *a Theatre in the rt. wing, and in the 1. a Restaurant, where dinners may be had a la cai'te : attached to it is the Library and Reading-room of M. Marx. Strangers who intend to remain any time here may subscribe for a fortnight or month to the rooms and balls. In the shop of Creutzbauer the bookseller there is a Circulating Library and read- ing-room, where The Times, Galignani's Messenger, and other English papers are taken in. The shady avenue leading to the Conversationshaus is occupied by shops of traders from various parts of Europe— Tyrol, Switzerland, Paris — all selling their national commodities, and commonly not very cheap. In the after- noon, when dinner is over, the walks and colonnades in front of the Conver- sationshaus become the fashionable re- sort, and are crowded with people sip- ping coffee and ices, or smoking ; the whole space is then covered with chairs and tables, and a band of music is sta- tioned close at hand. The rouge-et-noir and roulette tables, though opened for a forenoon course of gambling, are chiefly frequented in the evening, and stakes become higher as the night advances. Females are some- times seen at them as well as men, ladies but rarely. Players alone are allowed to be seated. The Conversationshaus is let out by the government of Baden to a company of speculators, who pay for the exclusive privilege of opening gambling-tables 35,000 fl. (3000/.) annually, and agree to spend in addition 250,000 fl. on the walks and buildings. Some idea may be formed from this of the vast sums of money which must be yearly lost by the dupes who frequent this licensed gaming- house. It is understood that the same company engage the tables at Ems, Wiesbaden, and other watering-places. The whole is under the direction of M. Benazet, who formerly farmed the gam- bling-houses of Paris. He has fitted up the interior with much taste and great splendour. The gaming-tables draw hither much disreputable society, and must be considered as a very serious dis- advantage to the place. It is chiefly through their baneful influence that Baden has sadly fallen off in respecta ■ bility of late years. Immediately above the highest houses of the town rises das neue Schloss (new castle) — called new only by way of distinguishing it from the still older castle on the very summit of the hill above, in which the Duke's ancestors resided during the insecure times of the middle ages, down to 1471, when the present new schloss was founded. It was burnt and ruined in the fatal year 1689 by the French army that ravaged the Palatinate, but was afterwards re- stored in its present form. It is an ugly building, only remarkable for its situation and the curious Dungeons be- neath it. Under the guidance of the castellan, the stranger is conducted into these singular vaults down a winding stair, under the tower in the rt.-hand corner of the inner court, through an ancient bath constructed by the Bo- mans. This entrance has been broken through in modern times ; originally the dungeons were only accessible from above, by a perpendicular shaft or chimney running through the centre of the building, and still in existence. The visitor, in passing under it, can barely discern the daylight at the top. According to tradition, prisoners, bound fast in an arm-chair and blindfolded, were let down by a windlass into these dark and mysterious vaults, excavated out of the solid rock on which the castle is founded. The dungeons were closed, not with doors of wood or iron, but with solid slabs of stone, turning upon pivots, and ingeniously fitted. Several of them still remain ; they are nearly a foot thick, and weigh from 1200 to 2000 lbs. In one chamber, loftier than the rest, called the Rack Chamber (Fol- ter-Kammer), the instruments of tor- ture stood ; a row of iron rings, form- ing part of the fearful apparatus, still remains in the wall. In a passage ad- joining there is a well or pit in the floor, now boarded over, originally co- vered with a trap-door. The prisoner upon whom doom had been passed was led into this passage, and desired to kiss an image of the Virgin placed at the opposite end ; but no sooner did his feet rest on the trap-door than it 544 ROUTE 106. — BADEN-BADEN. CHURCH. Sect. VIII. gave way beneath his weight, and pre- cipitated him to a great depth below, upon a machine composed of wheels, armed with lancets, by which he was torn to pieces. This dreadful punish- ment was called the " Baiser de la Vierge," and the fatal pit, with its trap- door, an oubliette ; because those who were precipitated down it were " oublie's" never heard of more. The secret of this terrible dungeon remained un- known until, as the story goes, an at- tempt to rescue a little dog, which had fallen through the planking above the pit, led to the discovery, at a depth of many yards, of fragments of ponderous wheels set round with rusty knives, with portions of bones, rags, and torn garments adhering to them. The last and largest of these vaults is called the Hall of Judgment. Here the judges sat upon stone benches, remains of which may still be traced round the wall. Behind the niche where the president (Blutrichtcr) sat is the outlet to a subterranean passage, by which the members of the court entered ; it is said to have communi- cated at one time with the Alte Schloss on the top of the hill, but is now walled up. According to popular belief, these dungeons were the seat of a Secret Tri- bunal (Vehmgerieht), such as that de- scribed so well by Scott in Anne of Geierstein, and by Gothe in Gotz of Berlichingen. It must be remembered, however, that the famous Vehme of Westphalia held its meetings, not in the dark, nor in dungeons, but in broad day, and in the open field. (See p. 369.) There is little doubt that these pri- sons were the place of meeting of a mysterious tribunal, over which the lord of the castle most probably presided. Similar prisons (excepting the stone doors) are to be found in almost every well-preserved baronial fortress of the middle ages ; and, though sometimes appropriated to the trial of real offences committed within the seigneur's juris- diction, were not unfrequently the in- struments of tyranny, and the scenes of dark crime; while at the best, from the secrecy of the proceedings, such a trial must have been but " wild jus- tice." The upper part of the castle is only worth notice on account of the fine view from its windows, and of the open shaft running through the building from top to bottom, within the winding staircase, which was the means of access to the dungeons below. It was di- vided by a partition, extending the whole way down. It is supposed that . a prisoner, with his eyes blindfolded, was admitted by a door in the hall, opposite the principal entrance of the castle, was seated in an arm-chair, wound up to the top by a windlass through one side of the shaft, and let down by the other into the prisons of the secret tribunal. This shaft, at least, served to convey air into those subter- ranean chambers. The small garden adjoining the castle and the terrace called Schneckengarten (snail garden, because snails were once bred in it for the table) are agreeable walks, com- manding fine, views. The Parish Church is noticed chiefly as being the burial-place of the Mar- graves of Baden, and as containing several of their monuments. The most interesting are those of Margrave Louis William, who distinguished himself against the Turks, and was considered one of the first generals of his time. He served in 26 campaigns, and in his numerous battles was never vanquished ; he died 1707 : Prince Eugene served under him, His monument is by Pi- galle (the sculptor of that of Marshal Saxe at Strasburg), and is not in good taste. Margrave Frederick, although Bishop of Utrecht, is represented on his tomb clad in armour, but with a mitre on his head instead of a helmet. An- other of the family, Leopold William, also fought against the infidel, in token of which his monument (one of the best in the collection) is supported by Turks, chained. He was the colleague of Stahremberg and Montecucoli, and died at Warasdin in Hungary, 1671. At the E. end of the town is a Convent of nuns of the Holy Sepulchre : their dress is black, in sign of mourning ; to be worn until the Holy Sepulchre shall be again rescued from the Infidels by Baden. ROUTE 106. EXCURSIONS. EBERSTEINBURG. 545 the Christians. The sisters conduct a female school ; the service in their con- vent chapel, aided hy the voices of a female choir, is very impressive and pleasing. The English Church Service is per- formed every Sunday in the Spital Kirche, at 1 1 . English visitors usually subscribe towards the stipend of the clergyman. Dr. C. Freeh, a resident German physician, understands the English lan- guage and practice. Post- Office. — Letters arrive from and are despatched to Strasburg twice, and to Carlsruhe once a day. Extra-post. — The post-master is en- titled to charge 15 kr. above the usual sum for every horse sent out from Baden. Hired carriages, donkeys, and riding- horses are to be had in abundance dur- ing the season at all the principal inns. About 2 or 3 in the afternoon they collect at the end of the avenue leading to the Conversationshaus, to await employers. All the charges are fixed according to distance, by a printed tariff (taxe). Excursions. — A stranger cannot be at a loss for excursions : let him follow almost any path leading out of the town, and he will find it a pleasant walk. One of the most agreeable, and usually the first taken, is that to das alte ScJiloss (2-^ m., an hour's walk), the conspicuous ruin which rises out of the woods on the summit of the hill above the town. A carriage-road, commencing behind das neue Schloss, leads up the hill to it in zigzags, but a shorter foot-path is open for pedes- trians, or those who trust to mules and asses, the usual beasts of burden em- ployed in this excursion. The shade of the woods through which the path winds alleviates the fatigue of the ascent in the heat of the day, while seats, opportunely placed, wherever a projecting rock displays the view to advantage, enable the wanderer to re- cruit his strength, if weary. The Alte Schlos's was the earliest residence of the ancestors of the reign- ing house of Baden. Its situation afforded its owners security from foes during many centuries of rapine and disorder. At length, in the 15th cent., when the right of private warfare was abolished, the Lords of Baden ven- tured to descend from their tower on high, and settled in the New Chateau, close to iliii town. This interesting and picturesque old ruin was disman- tled and reduced to its present state by the French in the devastating war of the Palatinate. The view which the galleries round its mouldering battle- ments afford is the most pleasing and extensive in the neighbourhood of Baden. On one side are seen the dark hills of the Black Forest, luxuriantly clothed with the woods from which they get their name, contrasting with the verdure of the valleys they enclose, while the town of Baden at our feet, numberless villages, chinch spires, con- vents, and mills, clustering on the borders of winding streams, fill the foreground : on the other side, the hills subside into the plain of the Rhine, whose course may be traced in the distance, backed by the Yosges Moun- tains in France. A path leading from the gateway of the castle to the left, and winding round the shoulder of the hill, conducts to Ebersteinburg (2 m.), another ruin, near a village of the same name. " This is an agreeable prolongation of the morning's excursion. Walks are also cut in the hill above the castle to the curious rocks called Eelsenbruche on the summit, whence a good view over the level land to Strasburg may be enjoyed." — D. J. The views from the top of the other hills around Baden, the Jagdhaus (Hunting Lodge, from which the spire of Strasburg may be seen), the Yburg, 6 m. (accessible for carriages only part of the way — to the foot of the hill), and the Mercuriusberg, 5 m. (on whose summit a tower is built), partake more or less of the character of that from the Alte Schloss. Nevertheless, a person residing some time at Baden will find each of them a pleasant excursion, affording most excellent situations for a picnic party. Lichtenthal. An avenue of shady oaks, commencing near the S. end 546 ROUTE 106. — LICHTESTTHAL. NEU-EBERSTEIN. Sect. VIII. of the town of Baden, leads up the valley to the Convent of Lichtenthal, 1£ m. It was richly endowed in ancient days by the Margraves of Baden, but has undergone the fate of all such reli- gious establishments ; its revenues only escaped entire confiscation by the inter- ference of the Grand Duke, but the number of its inmates is now reduced to 20 nuns. In the older and smaller of the two churches attached to the convent are many curious monuments of the Margraves, bearing their mailed effigies, and the crest of goat's horn displayed on their helmets : one prince lies on a slab or table, clad in mail, with bars of iron running down the sleeves, a curious transition from chain to plate armour. The Orphan house attached to the convent is one of the foundations of the charitable London tailor Stultz, who was created a nobleman by the Grand Duke of Baden. The convent and the village of Ober- beuern, close to Lichtenthal, lie at the entrance of a beautiful valley, which well deserves to be explored. It is the picture of quiet seclusion, a minia- ture of a Swiss valle*y. A clear rippling stream flows through the midst, and sets in activity several saw-mills ; rich verdant meadows and well cultivated cornfields line its banks, and extend up to the hem of the forest, which clothes all the hills around with its dark foliage. A carriage-road leads as far as Geroldsau, a picturesque village, where visitors are invited to waBi up to a waterfall called the Butte (6 m. from Baden). The walk- is pleasant ; but as for the waterfall, it is a paltry jet, dried up for a great part of the season, when its attractions are most needed. A pedestrian disposed to take a good long walk may go to Yburg, proceed thence with a guide over the hills to Geroldsau and the waterfall, and return to Baden by Lichtenthal, making alto- gether 12 or 13 miles. A traveller pressed for time may visit the most interesting objects around Baden in 6 hrs., with a carriage and 2 horses, costing 6 florins. After seeing the Old Schloss, which will take up 3 hrs. on foot, he may drive by Lichten- thal to Neu-Eberstein ; thence descend the Murgthal to Gernsbach, by Ot- tenau, Rothenfels, and Kuppenheim, to the Favourite ; whence he may either return to Baden, or proceed on to the Rastadt station (p. 536). The most pleasing excursion, however, beyond doubt, among the many which lie within the reach of the visitor at Baden, is that to the Valley of the Murg. The drive to Gernsbach and Neu Eberstein (6 m.) and back will occupy a morning or afternoon ; but it is well worth a stranger's while to de- vote a whole day to the beauties of the Murgthal. An admirably constructed road leads from Lichtenthal direct to Schloss Eber- stein, a drive of 1J hr., winding gra- dually over the ridge of steep hills, a spur or promontory shooting out from the Black Forest range, which divides the valley of Baden from that of the Murg. After viewing it, the traveller may descend the valley to Gerns- bach. The Castle of Neu Eberstein, an an- cestral fortalice of the Grand Ducal family, projects forward on the summit of a beetling crag, in a situation ena- bling its owners, in ancient days, to command the passage up and down the stream and valley, and to take toll from all comers. - The old feudal ruin has been built up into a modern residence, and is inhabited during part of the year by some members of the Grand Duke's family. Strangers are freely admitted to see it. In front of it, on a stone pedestal, is placed a huge statue of a wild boar. {Eber.') The Gothic furniture, ancient armour, and painted glass with which it is decorated, though curious, will hardly distract the stran- ger's attention from the exquisite view which he will gain from the platform in front. The road descends in zigzags from the castle-gate to the Murg, and joins a shorter footpath through the wood, at a little white chapel called Der Klingel, the resort of pilgrims at certain seasons. In the small town of 67 ernsbach (Inns: Stern; Sonne), 2000 inhab., at the comer of the market-place, is a hand- Baden. ROUTE 107.— BADEN TO STRASBURG. 547 some red Elizabethan house. The saw- mills, which abound here, are busily employed in cutting into planks the noble trees of the Black Forest, which, having been floated down the Murg, are here collected, sorted, cut, and made up into larger rafts, to find their way down the Rhine to Holland. About an hour's drive beyond Gerns- hach, and lower down the valley of the Murg, is Rothenfels, with a fine hotel, pleasantly situated at what is called the Elizabethenquelle. Those who intend to wander further up the valley above Eberstein will find a footpath descending from the castle straight to the village of Oberzroth, where they will find themselves again at the side of the Murg. The beauties and wildness of the river-banks in- crease as you ascend the stream. The villages passed in succession are Hil- pertsau, where the road crosses over to the rt. bank of the Murg ; Weissenbach ; Langenbrand, on a lofty granite rock, a very striking object ; Gausbach, where the wooden houses resemble those of Switzerland; and Forbach (Inn, Krone), the last village belonging to Baden, 1 2 m. from Baden. As the road beyond is up-hill, Forbach generally forms the limits of a day's excursion, if the tra- veller intends returning the same day to Baden ; but for those who have time to spare, it may be observed that the vale of the Murg is only the entrance to other very beautiful valleys of the Black Forest. In the side valley of the Rauhmunz- ach, a few miles above Forbach, and in the midst of the mountains, may be seen a kind of tank (Schwellung), formed by damming up the stream, which is opened at stated periods to float down vast masses of timber. The valley of the Murg loses much of its beauty in its upper extremity. The frontier of Wiirtemberg is reached at the post station Schonmiinznach (Inns : Post and Zum Waldhorn), 2 posts from Wildbad. See Handbook of South Germany, Route 162, where the road from Baden to Wildbad is described. ROUTE 107. BADEN TO STRASBURG — RAILWAY. 2 Germ. m. from Appenweier Stat, to Kehl, and 6 French kilometres thence to Strasburg =13 Eng. m. A branch line from the Appenweier Stat., on the Great Baden railway (Rte. 106), leads W. to Kehl. Trains run in 25 min. Kork Stat. 2 Kehl Stat. — Inns : Post ; Weisses Lamm ; comfortable, and a civil host. Kehl, on the bank of the Rhine, at the confluence of the Kinzig and Schut- ter with the Rhine, though dignified by the name of a town, resembles more nearly a village. It was once a strong fortress of the German empire, strength- ened as a bulwark against France, and has consequently been bombarded, burned, and razed more than a dozen times by French armies on crossing the Rhine. At present its fortifications are dismantled, and Germany is unpro- tected at this point. To guard against this, the German Confederation are causing the towns of Gemersheim on the 1. bank of the Rhine, and Rastadt on the rt., to be converted into places of strength. As the French Custom-house on the opposite side of the Rhine is notori- ously strict, persons wishing merely to see Strasburg, and not to penetrate farther into France, had better leave their baggage at Kehl. The distance to Strasburg is nearly 4 m. From Kehl omnibuses constantly ply to Strasburg. The gate at the end of the bridge of Kehl is closed soon after sunset. The Rhine opposite Strasburg is divided into 2 branches by an island, upon which stands the French Custom- house, and (1.) a little way beyond it, surrounded by willows, the monu- ment erected to General Dessaix, in- scribed with the words " a, Dessaix, l'Armee du Rhin, 1800." The island is connected with the main land by a bridge of boats on each side. After passing the second bridge, the road passes on the S. side of the Citadel of Strasburg, considered a masterpiece of the skill of Vauban ; and, a few hun- 548 ROUTE 107. — STRASBURG. CATHEDRAL. Seet. VIII. dred yards beyond it, reaches the gate of the city, where passports are de- manded. If the stranger do not intend to remain more than 12 hrs. in the town, his passport is kept for him at the guard-house till, he returns, other- wise it is sent to the police. Near the Austerlitz gate, or Metzgerthor, by which the road from Kehl enters Stras- burg, is a milestone inscribed " Route de Paris a Vienne !" 10* Strasburg (Germ.Strassburg). — Inns : Yille de Paris ; a handsome house, good cuisine ; — Eothes Haus (Maison Eouge), on the Grande Place, good; — La Fleur ; — Hotel de Metz, near the Bailway Stat. Strasburg, capital of the ancient province of Alsace (Elsass), is a strong frontier fortress, with 68,000 inhab., (30,000 Protestants), and a garrison of 6000 men, even in time of peace, on the 111, which, on its way to join the Bhine, at the distance of about a mile, intersects the town in all directions, in canals. Strasburg is the Argentoratum of the Bomans. Though it has been united to France for more than a cent, and a half, and forms at present the chief toAvn in the Dept. du Bas Bhin, yet it bears all the external aspect of a German town in the appearance of its streets and bxmses, and in the costume and language of its inhab. Louis XIV. got possession of Strasburg, which was a Free Imperial city of the German empire, in 1681, by an unwarrantable attack during the time of peace. The principal and most interesting building in the town is the Cathedral, or Miinster, one of the noblest Gothic edifices in Europe, remarkable for its Spire, the highest in the world, rising 474 ft. above the pavement; 24 ft. higher than the Great Pyramid of Egypt, and 140 ft. higher than St. Paul's. The artist who designed this admirable masterpiece of airy open- work was Erwin of Steinbach : his plans are still preserved in the town. He died in 13] 8, when the work was only half finished : it was continued by his son, and afterwards by his * The real distance is 3| in.— 6 kilom. ; 4 kilom. extra are charged. daughter Sabina. The remains of this family of architects are interred within the cathedral. The tower was not com- pleted till 1439, long after their deaths, and 424 years after the church was commenced, by John Hultz of Cologne, who was" summoned to Strasburg for this end. Had the original design been carried into execution, both the towers would have been raised to the same height. A doorway in the S. side of the truncated tower leads to the summit of the spire. On the platform, about § of the way up, is a station for the watchmen, who are set to look out for fires (§ 43). One of them will ac- company any person who has permis- sion from the Mayor to mount the upper spire, and will unlock the iron grate which closes the passage. There is no difficulty or danger in the ascent to a person of ordinary nerve or steadi- ness of head ; but the stonework of the steeple is so completely open, and the pillars which support it are so wide apart, and cut so thin, that they more nearly resemble a collection of bars of iron or wood ; so that at such a height one might almost fancy oneself sus- pended in a cage over the city ; and, if the foot were to slip, the body might possibly drop through the open fret- work. At the same time, the elaborate- ness of the tracery, and the sharpness of the angles and ornaments, are proofs of the skill of the architect and the excellent materials he had chosen ; and it is only by a close inspection that the delicacy of the workmanship can be truly appreciated. Within a few feet of the top the winding stair terminates, under a species of carved rosette. Several instances are recorded of per- sons who have either fallen or have thrown themselves off the top. The view of the multitude of rusty- coloured tiled roofs of the town is not very pleasing ; nor is it the bird's-eye panorama of the rich district around, of the Bhine and Black Forest in Germany, and of the Yosges Mountains on the side of France, that will reward the adventurous climber ; but rather the exploit, the great elevation, and the near view which it affords of the steeple. Baden. ROUTE 107. — STRASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 549 Now, to descend to the body of the church. The exterior of the W. end deserves the most minute examination. " The gigantic mass, over the solid part of which is thrown a netting of detached arcades and pillars, which, notwithstanding their delicacy, from the hardness and excellent preservation of the stone, are so true and sharp as to look like a veil of the finest cast- iron, contains a circular window 48 ft. in diameter, and rises to the height of 230 ft. ; i. e. higher than the towers of York Minster." — Hope's Architecture. " The building," says Dr. Who well, " looks as though it were placed behind a rich open screen, or in a case of woven stone. The effect of the com- bination is very gorgeous, but with a sacrifice of distinctness from the mul- tiplicity and intersections of the lines." The nave was begun in 1015, and finished in 1275. The Romanesque choir is part of an older building, attri- buted to the time of Charlemagne. The most remarkable things in the interior are the vast and beautiful W. marigold window, 43 ft. in diameter ; the rich painted glass, executed in the 15th cent., filling nearly all the windows ; the Font in the N. transept ; the Pul- pit of carved stone (date 1487) ; and the famous Clock in the S. transept, made by a living artist of Strasburg to replace an older one which had fallen to decay. The full mechanism is set in motion at noon only. The S. transept is supported by a beautiful single pillar, ornamented with statues : above the Gothic border, which runs along the wall, appears a statue of the architect of the Minster, Erwin of Steinbach, carved by himself : he is interred here, and in 1835 his family tombstone was discovered in the little court behind the chapel of St. John. The Guild of Freemasons has existed at Strasburg since . the foundation of the Minster, and is the parent of the lodges throughout Germany. The Frauenhaus, once a nunnery, near the Minster, has an elegant Go- thic winding-stair of stone, and some curious sculpture. The Ch. of St. Thomas, appropriated to the use of a Protestant congregation, contains the Monument of Marshal Saxe, the masterpiece of the sculptor Pigalle, erected to his memory by Louis XV. It represents the general descending with a calm mien to the grave, while France, personified in a beautiful fe- male figure, endeavours to detain him, and at the same time to stay the threatening advance of Death. It is looked upon as a very successful effort of the chisel . there is a tenderness of expression about the female figure which is truly charming. Schopflin, and a brother of the pastor Oberlin, are buried in this church ; and there are one or two other small monuments. Two bodies, said to be of a Count of Nassau- Saarwcrden and his daughter, are shown, on account of the wonder- fully perfect state in which flesh and clothes have been preserved after the lapse of more than a cent. This is truly a disgusting spectacle. The Academie Boy ale, originally a Protestant school, founded 1538, raised to the dignity of a university in 1621, but suppressed at the Revolution, has produced several remarkable scholars, as Schopflin, Oberlin, Schweighauser, &c. : here also Gothe completed his studies, and took his degree of Doctor in Laws, 1772. His residence at Stras- burg is admirably described in his auto- biography. The Academy possesses a Museum of Natural History, which ranks far higher than the common average of provincial collections. It is very com- plete in the productions of Alsace, and especially in the fossils of the gres bi- garre ; and there is a large series of the fossil plants discovered at Sulz les Bains and Muhlhausen. The botanical collection contains the section of the trunk of a silver fir, from the Hoch- wald, near Barr; its diameter was 8 ft. close to the ground, its height 150 ft. There are many other specimens of woods preserved in such a manner as not only to interest the botanist, but to be useful to the practical man, to the carpenter and the like, by showing the texture and quality of the timber. The Public Library, of more than 100,000 vols., boasts of many literary curiosities : the principal are, the " Landsberg Missal" of Herrade, Ah- 550 ROUTE 107. STRASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. VIII. bess of Hohenberg, richly and co- piously decorated with illuminations and miniatures in the early Byzantine style, executed in 1180 ; a missal, written on purple vellum in silver let- ters ; many early printed books ; Cicero, printed by Faust, 1465; a Bible, printed at Strasburg, 1466, by Egge- stein; Mentelin's Bible, printed here in the same year. The earliest attempt at printing was made at Strasburg (about 1436) by John Gutenberg, who finally brought his invention to perfection at Mayence. Peter Schoffer, who assisted him^ and made many improvements, particularly in the casting of metallic letters, was a citizen of Strasburg. A bronze statue has been erected to him in a small 'place near the Cathedral. The pose and drapery are bad. A bronze statue of Gutenberg by David has been set up in the Place Gutenberg. Persons interested in military mat- ters will be disposed to visit the Arsenal of a fortress so important as Strasburg : it contains fire-arms for 155,000 men, and 952 pieces of cannon, 412 of which, are required for the de- fence of the town and the citadels. There is a cannon foundry here, and one of the largest depots of artillery in France. By means of large sluices, constructed in the time of Louis XV. by Vauban, at the spot where the 111 enters the town, the country around Strasburg, between the Rhine and the 111, can be laid under water, and the city rendered unapproachable by an army, and almost impregnable. The Seminaire is a huge and hand- some edifice, close to the cathedral : it was originally the bishop's palace. There is a good provincial Theatre here, near the square called Broglie, from a governor of Alsace of that name : a very splendid Synagogue was erected, in 1834, by the Jews. It is curious to contrast the present with the former condition of that people in this city. Nowhere did they suffer more cruel or tyrannical persecutions. The street called Brand Strasse (Fire- street) was so named because, on the spot where the Prefecture now stands, a bonfire was made, in 1348, to burn the Hebrews ; and 2000 of that de- voted race, accused of having poisoned the wells and fountains, and thus caused the plague which desolated the city about this time, were consumed in the flames. From henceforth no Jew was allowed to live within the walls ; and the summons of a horn, blown every evening from the Minster tower, com- pelled them all to depart. The body of General Kleber (a native of Strasburg), originally in- terred in the Minster, has been re- moved to a vault in the centre of the Place d'Armes (Paradeplatz), and a monument has been erected over it. Strasburg is famous for its Pate's de foies gras, made of the livers of geese, which are enlarged to an un- natural size by the cruel process of shutting the birds up singly in coops too narrow to allow them to turn, and stuffing them twice a day with maize. They are generally kept in a dark cellar, and the winter is the season for fattening them, coolness being essen- tial. There is such a coop in almost every house in the town. Sulphur is steeped in the water given to the birds to increase their appetite. Instances are known of a goose's liver which had attained the weight of 2 or even 3 lbs. Hummel, No. 9, Rue des Serruriers, is said to make good pates. The gates of Strasburg are shut at 10 o'clock, after which neither ingress nor egress is allowed. The principal Promenade is the Ruprechtsau, an extensive space laid' out in walks and gardens, beyond the walls. Malleposte, daily to Paris in 30 hrs., and diligence in 42 through Nancy (the Strasburg and Paris Railroad opened from Strasburg to Sarrebourg, and from Ban-le-Duc to Paris) — -to Lyons (Malle- poste, in 27 hrs.) — to Landau in 12^ nrs. (See Handbook for France.) The Ban de la Boche, the scene of th pastor Oberlin's beneficent life and labours, is about 30 m. S.W. of Stras- burg. (See French Handbook.) Bailroads to Basle — see Handbook for France — from Kehl to the Great Baden Railway — to Sarrebourg. Steamers descend the Rhine from Strasburg to Mannheim and Mayence Baden. ROUTE 107- — OFFENBURG TO CONSTANCE. 551 daily. (Rte. 102.) From Strasburg to Mannheim you go nearly as quickly by river as by rail (including 1 br. to and from the stations), viz. in 6^ hrs., but it takes 2 long days to mount up- wards from Mayencc. ROUTE 108. OFFENBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN AND CONSTANCE, BY THE KINZIGTHAL AND DONAUESCHINGEN. 22 Germ. m. = 102 Eng. m. to Schaff- bausen. Thence to Constance, 6-^ Germ, m. = 30 Eng. m. Eilwagen daily from Offenburg to Schaffhausen in 15^ hrs., and to Con- stance in 19J hrs. Offenburg — Inn, Die Fortuna (Etc. 105, p. 538)— is situated at the entrance of the valley of the Kinzig. This stream descends from the Black Forest, and joins the Rhine at Kehl. The scenery at its upper extremity is very pleasing, though inferior to that of the Hollen- thal (Rte. 109). 2 m. beyond Offenburg, near the pretty village of Ortenburg, the modern Gothic Castle of the Russian Baron Berkholz is conspicuous on the 1. of the road, upon an eminence overlook- ing the mouth of the Kinzigthal. The first small town of the route is Gengenbach ; it has 2000 inhab., and an old monastery, now secularised, with a fine ch. attached to it. 2i Bieberach. The scenery from Bieberach to Homberg is very pic- turesque, almost romantic. The road passes through Steinbach and Hass- lach, on the 1. bank of the Kinzig, be- fore reaching 2^ Hausach. Inn comfortable and clean. — F. 8. The ruined castle anciently belonged to a branch of the family of Fursten- berg, who were seigneurs of the town. A road turning off on the 1. conducts to the baths of Rippoldsau. (Hand- book, South Germany.) Our road, continuing to the rt., passes through a country which has quite a Swiss character. The broad- roofed wooden houses, the costume of the people, and, above all, the frequent occurrence of goitre, tend to increase the resemblance. IJj Hornberg. — Inns ; Post, good, comfortable sleeping quarters ; Bar (Bear). This little town is beautifully situated under a height, crowned by an old donjon keep, and at the foot of the main chain of the Black Forest range. The skeleton of these moun- tains is granite ; and they attain their greatest elevation (4616 ft. above the sea) near Feldberg. The new line of road to Triberg avoids a wearisome ascent and uninter- esting country, being carried up the valley of the Gutach,one of the most sequestered and beautiful in the Black Forest, and through a gorge, being partly hewn in the rock, to 1^ Triberg. The posthouse (Ba- densche Hof), the best on the line, good, rather dear, is at a little distance from the village, of 800 inhab., which lies off the road in a very romantic si- tuation, hemmed in by high precipices, from one of which, 1^- m. distant from the inn, a pretty waterfall descends. Triberg is the centre of a manufacture peculiar to the Black Forest, that of wooden clocks, exported to the number, it is said, of 200,000 yearly, under the name of Dutch clocks, not only throughout Europe, but even to Ame- rica and China. The sulphm'- coloured straw-hats worn by the peasantry are also made here. Beyond Triberg there is a steep ascent. The Briegach, one of the head- waters of the Danube, rises within a short distance of 1^ St. Georgen. Here is a Bene- dictine convent of great antiquity, one of the focuses of the civilization of the surrounding district. It was biirnt by a Duke of "Wurtemberg because the monks refused to adopt the Reforma- tion, but was soon succeeded by ano- ther. Ruins of the old convent exist. The new road, which is excellent, ends at Peterzels, about a mile beyond St. Georgen. An almost continuous de- scent leads to 2 Villingen — Inn, Sun (Post) — a market town, 3600 inhab., surrounded by bleak hills. It has the appearance of having been built on the site of a Roman encampment. It is a square crossed by 2 main streets at right an- gles, one passing through the centre of 552 ROUTE ]07. — DONAUESCHINGEN. BLUMBEB.G. Sect. YllL the square, the other somewhat on one side of it. There are 4 gates, one at each end of these streets. About 4 m. E. of Villingen, near a village called Swenningen, is the Source of the Neckar. This is indeed a land of fountains and of watercourses ; and though the height of the mountains is not great, and they have no glaciers or perpetual snow, yet the reservoirs of the Black Forest feed with large sup- plies the two principal rivers of Eu- rope. The flakes of winter snow which descend upon some of the ridges, nay, even the drops of rain falling on oppo- site sides of a house, in some situations, are destined to end their career at the two opposite extremities of a continent ; and, while part find their way to the German Ocean, others, which reached the ground within a few feet of them, take an opposite course, and fall into the Black Sea. 2 Donaueschingen. — Inns : Schiitze ; Poste (Falke). This town is the chief place of the small Landgraviate of Baar, and contains 3053 inhab. The principal building is the Palace of the mediatised Prince of Fiirstenberg, a plain modern edifice. In a corner of the garden, and be- tween the walls of the palace and the church, is a round basin filled with clear sparkling water, which may be seen bubbling up from the bottom. Its waters, running out of the basin, are conducted for about 50 yds. in a subterranean channel into the Brieg- ach, which from that point receives the name of the Danube. This little basin, under the castle window, goes by .the name of the Source of the Da- nube. The real origin of that river seems to have been involved in a por- tion of the same mystery which con- ceals the source of the Nile. The claims which the basin in the court- yard has to be considered the source are, that the name of Danube is not given to the river until the waters of this little rill are received into it, and that the. two upper streams, the Brege, whose fountain-head is at the solitary chapel of St. Martin, about 5 m. N."W. of the village of Furtwangen, and 25 m. from Donaueschingen, and the Briegach, rising near the convent of St. George, 20 m. off, in spite of the previous length of their course, are both liable to be exhausted by drought, until supplied by the rill from the cas- tle garden of Prince Fiirstenberg. The whole country round Donaues- chingen may be compared to a wet sponge, so abundant and numerous are the sources of water in springs, rills, ponds, and marshes, all of which go to swell the tide of the Danube. About a mile out of Donatieschingen, at the village of Hulfingen, the road crosses the Brege, which in regard to its previ- ous length may be looked on as the main stream of the Danube ; the Briegach falls into it about a mile lower down. Eilwagen, in 9 hrs., direct from Donaueschingen to Constance by Gei- singen (1-^ Germ. m.). Engen (2), where Moreau beat the Austrians, in 1800, with a loss of 7000 men on either side. The height of Hohenhowen, an extinct volcano, once more vomited forth flames ; but in spite of the tre- mendous fire of the Austrian artil- lery planted on it, it was carried by the French. Eadolfzell(3). Constance (2^). In the midst of the bare open coun- try, interspersed with tufts of furze traversed on the way to Schaffhausen, a ruined castle is seen on a hill, with a village on the slope beneath it, at a little distance to the 1. of the road. This is Fiirstenberg, which gives its name to the principality, now media- tised. Biedbohringen is a small village. 2~ Blumberg ; a desolate-looking post-house. This stage is almost entirely occu- pied in the ascent and descent of a steep hill called the Bande. The view from the top, near a wooden crucifix, is charming. On the 1. are seen . 3 singular mountains, which from their shape may at once be known as ex- tinct volcanoes ; they are called Hohen- stoffeln, Hohenkrahe, and Hohen- twiel. Further on, in the distance, a wide expanse of the Lake of Con- stance, with the towers of Constance itself, backed by the snowy mountains of Sicitzerland, rises to view. Half Baden, r. 107.— schaffhausen. Constance, minstee. 553 way down the hill is a row of small houses; these are the Douane of the Baden frontier (§ 32). Immediately beyond them the traveller reaches Swiss ground, and the road passes through a little valley, completely Swiss in aspect as well as situation, to 3 Schaffhausen (see Handbook for Switzerland). Inns : Weber's, at the Falls, nearly 2 m. from the town ; Couronne, good, and not expensive. There is a post-house in Schaff- hausen, which supplies horses on the road to Constance. The relays are 1J Randegg. Here is the Baden custom-house. Near Singen {Inn poor and extor- tionate) you pass at the foot of Hohen- twiel. The castle is now dismantled. The lofty rock upon which it stands gives it the appearance of an Indian hill fort. 2^ Radolfzell (Post-house, a very good inn), a desolate town situated at the extremity of the branch of the Lake of Constance called Unter See, with a fine cJu, in the true German Gothic style. " In the broad part of the Rhine, where it is still rather a lake than a river, is the Isle of Reich- enau, anciently famed for a monastery, founded by one of the successors of Charlemagne, of which the Ch. (partly Romanesque) and Treasury remain. In the Treasury are to be seen, the shrine of St. Fortunata, an ivory ciborium, a cope, a crozier, and a missal of the 10th cent."— F. 8. The scenery of the road which runs along the L bank of the Rhine from Schaffhausen to Constance is more pleasing than the above road, but there are no post-horses on it. Petershausen, on the rt. bank of the Rhine opposite Constance, was origin- ally a free abbey of the empire. The Rhine here, suddenly contracted from a lake to a river, is crossed by a wooden bridge into 2i Constance. — Inns: Brochct (Hecht), best and very good, looking over the lake, with very attentive landlord, Mr. Keppler, who is an ac- complished fisherman, and has excel- lent rods, nets, punts, and all appliances for fishing, trolling, &c, which he lets out on moderate terms. He has [N. g.] also very extensive water privilege in and around Constance. Hotel De- lisle, outside the territory of the Customs League ; Post (Goldner Adler — Aigle d'Or), good. Constance, a decayed city of 5200 inhab., instead of 40,000, which it once possessed, is remarkable for its an- tiquity, since its streets and many of its buildings remain unaltered since the 15th cent. Although situated on the L or Swiss bank of the Rhine, it belongs to Baden. It is connected with the opposite shore by a long wooden covered bridge, and occupies a projecting angle of ground at the W. extremity of the Bodensee, or lake of Constance ; its agreeable position and interesting historical associations make amends for the want of life perceptible within its venerable walls. It has of late, however, revived considerably; the government have formed, at a large expense, a port on the lake, which fa- cilitates the navigation, while it is an ornament to the town. The Minster is a handsome Gothic structure, begun 1052, with fine open- work turrets in the W, end ; the doors of the main W. portal between the two towers are of oak, curiously carved in compartments, with a representation of the Passion of our Lord, executed in 1470 by one Simon Bainder. The nave is supported by 16 pillars, each of a single block, 18 ft. high, and dates from the 13th cent. ; it is flanked by circular arches in the Romanesque style, and is very wide ; the aisles are pointed. The spot where the " Arch- heretic Huss" stood, as sentence of death by burning was pronounced on him by his unrighteous judges, is still pointed out as a stone in the centre of the nave near the pulpit. Robert Hal- lam, Bishop of Salisbury, who presided over the English deputation to the council, is buried here, in front of the high altar, under a tomb, which is very remarkable, as being of English brass ; which is fully proved by the workman- ship. It was probably sent over from England by his executors. He wears the Order of the Garter. The carved woodwork of the stalls of the choir is very fine. In the N. transept is a re- 2b 554 ROUTE 108. — CONSTANCE. COUNCIL. Sect. VIIL presentation of the death of the Virgin in figures of life size. The crypt is of the 10th or 1 1th cent. Two sides of the ancient cloisters, whose arches are filled in with exquisitely heautiful tracery, are yet standing. The other sides were destroyed hy fire in 1824. In an angle of the cloisters is a curious circular building in the pointed style, in the centre of which is a Gothic rotunda, used for Good Friday ceremonies, which is curiously ornamented with Scriptural figures. There are some curious relics in the Sacristy, as, one of the arrows which pierced St. Sehastian, skull of St. Con- rad enclosed in a silver figure, piece of the true Cross, &c. ; also much fine Brabant lace, and a heautiful Gothic fireplace and piscina, superior to those at Courtray. In the Vestry-room above are a range of singular cupboards or presses of carved oak, none of a later date than the 15th cent. There is a beautiful view from the tower of the cathedral, E. over the lake and moun- tains of Tyrol, and W. over the valley of the Rhine. The Dominican Convent, now a cot- ton-printing establishment, is very in- teresting. The place is still shown where Huss was confined, though the stone chamber itself has been removed (at least all that remained of it) to the Kaufhaus. The church forms a pic- turesque ruin, in the early style of German Gothic. The chapter-house is even older. The cloisters are perfect. The little island upon which this build- ing stands was fortified by the Romans, and a portion of the wall, towards the lake, can yet be discerned. In the Hall of the Kaufhaus (built 1388), looking towards the lake, the Great Council of Constance held its sit- tings, 1414-18, in a large room sup- ported by wooden pillars. That famous assembly, composed, not of bishops alone, like the ancient councils, but of deputies, civil and ecclesiastical, from the whole of Christendom, including princes, cardinals (30), patriarchs (4), archbishops (20), bishops (150), pro- fessors of universities and doctors of theology (200), besides a host of am- bassadors, inferior prelates, abbots, priors, &c, was convened for the pur- pose of remedying the abuses of the church ; and as those abuses began with its head, the proceedings were prefaced by a declaration that a council of the church has received, by Divine right, an authority in religious matters, even over that of the Pope. It exerted its influence in curbing the Papal power, by deposing the infamous John XXIII. and Benedict XIII., and by electing in their place Martin V. But there is one act of this council which fixes lasting and odious celebrity on it — the trea- cherous seizure and cruel murder of John Huss and Jerome of Prague, in spite of the safe-conduct granted to the former by the Emperor Sigismund, the president of the assembly. The chairs occupied by the Emperor and Pope ; the Bible of Huss ; a model of the dungeon, now destroyed, in which he was confined, of the same size as the original, and in which the actual door and other fragments have been incorporated ; a car which is said to be that in which he was drawn to execution ; the figure of Abraham which supported the pulpit in the Minster, and which the people mistook for Huss, and defaced accordingly; and some other relics of the council, still remain in the hall, besides a collection of Roman and German antiquities, dug up in the neighbourhood, admission. The house in which Huss lodged, bearing a rude likeness of him, is pointed out in the Paul's Strasse, near the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into prison, soon after his arrival, in the Franciscan Convent, now a ruin, whence he was removed to a more irksome dungeon, affording scarcely room to move, in the before-mentioned Do- minican Convent. The field outside of the town, in the suburb of Briihl, in which he suffered martyrdom, with a fortitude which moved even his judges and executioners to admiration — nay, even the place where the stake was planted, — are still pointed out : rude images of Huss and Jerome, formed of clay taken from the spot, are offered for sale to the stranger. In 1415 a perpetual treaty of peace 1 F. fr. is charged for Baden. ROUTE 109. FREIBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 555 (signed at Aarberg, 24 July, 1415) was negotiated at Constance, between Sigismund of Austria and the Swiss Confederation, which, put an end to the contest for the liberty of the Swiss can- tons, which began with the fight of Morgarten (15 Nov. 1315), and was decided by that of Sempach (9 July, 1386). Behind the Hecht inn, and distinguished by an elegant Gothic bay window, is the house in which the Emperor Sigismund lodged. Constance belonged to the crown of Austria from 1549 to 1805, when, by the treaty of Presburg, it was transferred to Baden. Since 1802 it has ceased to be a bishop- ric. The spirit of industry is reviving, and several manufactories of cotton, two of muslin, and one of silk, have recently sprung up. 2 interesting Excursions may be made hence — to Reichenau (p. 553) and Meinau. The island of Meinau, about 4 m. N. of Constance, is one of the prettiest private residences in Ger- many. It is well cultivated, yet with no want of trees, forming a nice little estate. The palace is very large ; it was once a commandery of the Knights of the Teutonic Order, and retains a series of their portraits, and some good pictures of Miss Ellenried. From the balcony or from the terrace of the garden there is a magnificent view over the lake, of the mountains of the Vorarlberg and Appenzell, among which the Sentis is pre-eminent. Nearer at hand the cultivated German shores, with the towns of Morsberg, Fried- richshafen, &c, complete the picture. Meinau now belongs to the Countess Langenstein : it is approached by a wooden foot-bridge J m. long, connect- ing it with the shore ; there is an inn on the island. Diligences daily to Zurich, in 8^ hrs. ; Schaffhausen, in A\ ; St. Gall, in 5 ; Donaueschingen, in 8 ; and Freiburg, in 17. Steamers daily between Constance and the different ports of the lake. They correspond with the diligences to Milan at Rorschach, with the Eil- wagen for Stuttgart at Friedrichshafen, and with that to Augsburg and Munich at Lindau — thus maintaining a daily communication between Constance and these cities. / A steamer also to Schaffhausen in 3 hrs., returning in 6, every day from April to October. The Lake of Constance is described in the Handbook for Switzerland. ROUTE 109. FREIBURG IN BREISGAU TO SCHAFF- HAUSEN BY THE HOLLENTHAL. 11 Germ. m. = 51 Eng. m. Eilwa- gen daily, — one direct in 11 hrs. ; the other, which makes a detour by Do- naueschingen, in 14J hrs. A new road from Freiburg to Schaffhausen has been for some time projected. Although the distance is so small, the stages are so very tedious and hilly that at least 13 hrs. are occupied on the road tra- velling post, exclusive of all stoppages ex- cept the time spent in changing horses. The valley of the Dreisam, com- monly known as the Hollenthal, or Valley of Hell, is at its commencement near Freiburg a level and fertile plain of considerable width, bounded by gently sloping wooded hills. As you ascend, it gradually contracts, and, about 9 m. from Freiburg, assumes a character of romantic beauty and grandeur. Its charm lies in the rich foliage of the woods covering its steep sides, out of which project buttresses and pinnacles of bare rock, at the foot of which runs the Dreisam, bordered with turf and studded with frequent water-mills. Even here, its scenery, though wild, exhibits none of those horrors which its name would seem to imply. It extends to Steig. Perhaps the most remarkable spot is that called the Hirschsprung. f Burg. Through this valley Mo- reau executed his famous retreat of the Black Forest, with an army, in 1796, and gained by it as high a reputation for military talent as he would have acquired by a victory. The French Marshal Villars declined attempting this pass in 1702, saying he was "not devil enough." ■f Steig. — Inn, Post or Stern (Star) ; clean accommodation and good fare, including capital trout, at a cheap rate. Immediately beyond the Star the road 2b2 556 ROUTE 1JO — HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG. Sect. VIII. begins to ascend a steep slope, which carries it out of the Hollenthal, leaving behind it the finest scenery. 1 fl. 12 kr. is paid for an extra horse up the H61- lensteig. The country which opens out beyond is called Himmelreich — Kingdom of Heaven ; but has no claim to the name except its elevation in con- tradistinction to the Hollenthal below. At the top the road divides into 2 branches ; that on the 1. goes to Donaueschingen : we continue to follow the shortest and most direct. A small lake, called Titisee {Inn, Ebssle), is passed on the rt., and another equally steep hill succeeds, which must be sur- mounted before reaching If Lenzkirch. — Inns : Post, decent ; Cheval Blanc, good. Here many wooden clocks, for which the Black Forest is famed, are made : one may be bought for 4 fl. 2 Bondorf. This village was burnt down in 1827. [About 18 m. from this, and the same from Stiihlingen, lies the magnificent Benedictine Abbey of St. Blaize, now sequestrated, and turned into a factory, where spinning -jennies and fire-arms are made. The Church, built by Ixnard 1768-80, is a rotunda of somewhat larger dimensions than the Pantheon at Borne. On the dissolution of the monastery the monks removed into Carinthia, taking with them the bones of some ancestors of the house of Habsburg, who had been buried in their abbey.] At the summit of the ascent which the road makes in this stage the Lake of Constance may be descried in clear weather. Near the end of this stage is the castle of Hohenlupfen, belonging to Prince Fiirstenberg, but inhabited only by a peasant. It occupies a most commanding position on the brow of a hill, at whose foot lies 2 Stiihlingen. — Inns : Post and Hirsch. A little further on the Wu- tach, a small stream, is crossed, which forms the boundary of Switzerland. 2^ Schaffhausen. — Inns : Couronne ; Weber's Inn at the Falls 2 m. from the town. (In the Handbook for Swit- zerland.) The l.-hand road, leading out of the Hollenthal, conducts from Steig to 1 post — Neustadt (Inn, Post ; good), a town of 1500 inhab., on the Wutach. Here and in the neighbourhood are manufactured numbers of the wooden clocks for which the Black Forest is famous. The inhabitants, an indus- trious race, employ themselves also in polishing garnets and crystals, as well as in rearing singing birds. A very excellent cheese, sold as Swiss, is pro- duced in this district. 1 J post — Loppingen ; — thence by lj Donaueschingen (Bte. 108) to Schaffhausen. ROUTE 110. HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG. 18i. Germ. m. = 85 Eng. m. Eilwagen daily, in about 1 5 hrs. The road is very well kept, but hilly and badly engineered. It may be posted in a day and a half. A Lohnkutscher requires nearly 2 days, and charges (at "Wurzburg) 20 to 22 florins, be- sides trinkgeld. Unfortunately there is no good sleeping-place half way. Mosbach is the best, but the distance thence to "Wurzburg is too great for a single day's journey with the same horses, except in the height of summer. There is nothing of particular interest on the way except the scenery within a few stages of Heidelberg. It is a charming drive along the Neckar to Neckar-Gemiind, where the road crosses the river and ascends to 2 "Wiesbach. 2 Aglasterhausen. 2 Mosbach (several Inns, which ap- pear respectable), the most consider- able town on the road, prettily situated on a tributaiy of the Neckar. Here is a fine large church. 2 Ober-Schefflenz. — Inn, Post ; bad. 2 Buchen. 2 Hardheim. — Inn, zum Ochsen. 2^- Bischofsheim. — Inn, Badenscher Hof. " The Bavarian frontier (§ 76) is crossed within about 6 m. of TTiirz- burg. A fine view is obtained of the town in approaching it. It bears some resemblance to Prague, though very inferior." — Pr. F. 4 "WtiRZBURG, in Handbook fo: South Germany. (Bte. 167.) ( 557 ) INDEX. * # * In order to facilitate reference to the Routes, most of them are inserted in the Index twice ; thus the road from Hamburg to Berlin is also mentioned under the heud Berlin. * to Hamburg. Such reversed Routes are mixed in the Index with an asterisk (*) todis tinguish them. ACHEEN. Achekn, 537 Adenau, 296 Adersbach, rock labyrinth of, 420 Aerschot, 152 Aglasterhausen, 556 Ahr, river, mouth of, 265 excursion up the valley, 294 Ahrweiler, 294 Ahrbleichart wines, 295 Aix-la-Chapeli.e, 237. Con- gresses of, 237. Hotel de Ville, 237. Cathedral, 237. Mineral springs and baths, 240. New Redoute, 240. Theatre, Boulevard, 241. to Cologne, 242 to Diisseldorf, 253 ■ * to Brussels, by Maes tricht and Louvain, 186 and Namur, 177, 182 * to Liege, by Battice, 182 to Treves, 311 Albendorf, 425 Alexisbad, 394 Alf, 307 Aiken, 310 Alhmaar, 65 Alost, 118 Alphen, 80 Alsenz valley, 508 Alt-Breisach, 540 Altenahr, 295 Altenberg on the Lahn, 501 Alteriburg, abbey of, 253 Altenbur« in Saxony, 471 Altenkirchen, 317 Alton-i, 319,323 Alzei, 510 Amber fishery on the Baltic, 409 Amerongen, 84 Amersfoort, 73 Amsterdam, 49. Palace, 50. Churches, 51. Picture Gal- lery, 52. Charitable institu- tions, 54. Spinhouse, 55. Felix Meritis 55. Dockyard, 58. Water-boats, 56. Manu- factures, 58 ■ to Broek and Saardam, 59 ARNHEM. Amsterdam* to Texel and Helder, 67 to Utrecht and Nijme- gen, 69 to Arnhem, 72 to Groningen and Frede- riksoord, 73 to Bremen, 77 Anclam, 401 Andernach, 266 Andreasburg, 393 Angermiinde, 399 Annaberg, 426 Annweiler,— Castle of Trifels, 522 Anseremme, 192 Antwerp, 137-1 51 . Cathedral anil works of Rubens, 138. Spire, 142. Churches — of St. Jacques, 143 ; St. Paul, 143 ; St. Andrew, 144; Augustins, 144 ; St. Anthony, 145 ; Mu- seum of pictures, 145-148. Docks, 148. Citadel and siege, 149. Hotel deVille and Bourse, 150. Railroad, 151 siege by the Duke of Par- ma, 117 ■* to London, 114 to Rotterdam by land, 86 ■ by water, 87 to Brussels, 152 - * to Ghent, 136 ■ to Turnhout, 151 Apollonarisberg, 263 Appeldoorn, 77 Appenweier, 537 Arbergen, 398 Ardenne, seat of King Leopold, 192 Ardennes, the forest of, 192 Argenfels, 265 Arkona in Riigen, 404 Arlon, 189 Arminius, colossal statue of, 377 Armourivs : Berlin, 344 Dresden, 450 Kvbach, 527 Wartburg, 430 Arnau, 422 BATHS. Arnhem, 71 * to Utrecht, 69 to Cologne, 232 Arnsberg, 368 Arnstadt, 478 Arnstein Schloss, 503 Arolsen, 369 Artevelde, James] and Philip van, 131 Assche, 119J Assen, 75 Assmanshausen, 283 Ath, 109 Audenarde, 107 Auerbach, 528 Auevstadt, 434 Backarach, 279 Bacon, Lord, on Travel, ix Baden, duchy of, 528, 536 Baden-Badi'N, 541. Inns,541. Beauties of situation, 541. Hot springs, 542. New Schloss, Secret Tribunal and its dungeons, 54:i. Church, 544. Convent, 546. Con- versation shaus, 543. Phy- sicians, Post Office, 545. Excursions around ; Alte Schloss, 545. Ebersteinburg, Liclitenthal, 545. Gernsbach, 546. Murjjthal, 547. to Wildbad, 547 * to Carlsruhe, 541 to Strasburg, 547 Badenweiler, 540 Baggage, 208 Ballenstadt. 393 Ban de la Roche, 550 Barmen, 368 Bastei, The, 462 Bastogne, 197 Baths : Aix-la-Chapelle, 240 Alexisbad, 394 Baden-Baden, 541 Bertrich, 299 Briickenau, 428 Dobberan, 328 Ems, 482 Hof Geismar, 382 Homburg, 505 553 INDEX. BATHS. Baths : Liebenstein, 473 Liehewerda, 416 Putbus, 402 Pyrmont, 383 Reinerz, 424 Salzbrunn, 422 ■ Sehandau. 464 Soheveningen, 36 Sehlangenbad, 488 — — Schwalbach, 486 Svvinemiinde, 400 Warmbrunn, 418 Baumanns and Biels-Hohle,392 Bautzen, 415 Bavarian (?) broom girls, 378 Beemster in N. Holland, 68 Belgium, 89. Introductory in- formation, 89-102. General view of, 94. Passports, 89. Money, 90. Posting, 90 ; other modes of travelling, 92. Railroads, 92. Cities of, and architecture, 96 Bensheim, 5i8 Berg, ancient duchy of, 368 Bergen-op-Zoom, 88 Bergen, 404 Bergtfrasse, b2h-b9,9 Bergues, 112 Bermn, 332. Inns,332. Post- office— droskies, 332. So- ciety in, 333. Unter den Linden, 333. Brandenburg gate, 333. Monuments, 334. Churches, 335. Royal Palace, 336. Kunst cabinet, 336. King's private resi- dence, 338. Museum, vases, and bronzes, 339. Sculptures, 339. Pictures, 340 - 342. Boyal Library, 343. Uni- versity, 344. Museum of natural history, 344. Egyp- tian Museum, 342. Arsenal, 344. Iron-foundry, 345. The Gewerbe Schule, 345. Thea- tres, 346. Music, Sing-Aea- demie, 346. Coliseum, 346. Winter gardens, 346. Res- taurateurs, 346. Confection- ers, 347. Best shops, 347. Post-office, 347. Environs, 347 Tegel, 347. Tivoli and Kreuzberg, 348. Park, 348. Reviews, 349. * to Hamburg, 330 to Potsdam and Leipzig, 349, 353 to Dresden, 35R — — * to Diisseldorf, by Hesse Cassel and Elberf'eld, 367 * to Hanover, 3.38 * to Cologne, by Minden, 358 * by Magde- burg, Rrunsvvick, and Pader- born, 370 to Stettin and Swinemiin- de, 399 BRASSES. Berlin to Danzig, 404 ; and Konigsberg, 407 to Bromberg, 410 to Frank fiirton-the-Oder and Breslau, 411 to the Riesengebirge, H irschberg, and Warm- brunn, 416 Bernau, 399 Bernburg, 356 Berncastel, 306 Bertrich baths, 299 Betuwe, 84 Beverungen, 396 Beverwijk, 65 Biherich, 289 Bielefeld, 359 Biervliet, 116 Biesbosch, 82 Bingen Loch, 283 Bingkn, 284. St. Roch's Cha- pel, 285 excursions from, 285 to Mayence, by Ingel- heim, 506 to Mayence up the Rhine, 286 to Kreuznach and Saar- briick, 507 to Treves, 316 * to Coblenz, 286 Birkenfeld, 509 Biscliofsheim, 556 Bischofswerda, 415 Bitburg, 313 Black Forest at Baden, 545 the Kinzig, 551 sources of the Danube in, 552 Blaize, St., abbey of, 556 Blankenau, 396 Blankenburg, 392 Bleichert wine, meaning of, 295 Blouse, use of a, xxvii Bliicher, 413. His grave, 421 Bode, 393 Bodenfelde, 396 Bodenwcrder, 397 Bois-le-Duc, 87 Bommel, 83 Bondorf, 556 Bonn, 258. University, 259. Museum, 259. PoppeLsdorf, 259. Kreuzberg, 260 to the valley of the Ahr, 294 to the Eifel, and Lake of Laach, 296 Boppart, 2~6. Borcette, 241 Borsdorf apples, 438 Bouillon, 194 Boulder stones, 330 Bouvijjnes, 191 Braekel, 372 Braine le Comte, 194 Brandenburg, 353 Brasses, engraved monumental, at Bruges, 122. At Liibeck, I BRUSSELS. 326. AtStralsund, 402. Nij" megen, 72 Braubach, 275 Brauneberger wine, 306 Breda, 86 Brederode, 65 Brege river, 552 Breisach, Alt, 540 Bremen, 374. Territory and commerce, 375. Bleikeller, Rathhaus, 3*5. Bremerha- fen, 376. * to Diisseldorf, 372 * to Hamburg and Olden- burg, 330 * to Amsterdam, 77 Breslau, 413. Churches, 414. University, 414. Commerce, wool fairs, 414 * to Dresden, 415 to the Riesengebirge, 416 . to Glatz and Prague, 424 to Schweidnitz and Land- shut, 421 * to Berlin, 411 to Cracow, 425 to Vienna, 426 Brieg, 425 Briegach, 552 Brielle, 24 Brilon, 369 Brockedon's Advice to Travel- lers, xiii Brochen, ascent of, 391. Spec- tre of the, 391. Witches, 391 . View from, seldom seen, 392 Broek, 61 Brohl, trass mills of, 265 valley of, 265, 296' Bromberg, 410 to Dantzig and Berlin, 410 Broom girls, 378 Briickenau baths, 428 Briickenberg (Norwegian Ch.), 419 Bruchsal, 534 Bruges, 121. Les Halles, 125. Churches, 121. Paintings of Hemling at, 123, 124. Hotel de Ville, 123. Aca- demy, 124. Palais de Jus- tice, 124 *to Calais, 114 to Courtrai, 136 to Ghent. 126 Brunnen of Nassau, 482-495 Brunslierg, 372 Brunswick, 362. New Palace, 36?. Museum, 362. Albert Diirer's St. John in the Wil- derness, 363. Cathedral, 363. Black Brunswickers, 363. to Berlin, by Magdeburg. 358. Brussels, 155-169. Park, 156. King's Palace, 156. Palace of the Prince of Orange, 156. Chambers, 156. Museum, INDEX. 559 BRUSSELS. 156. Library, 157. Hotel de Ville, 158. Broodhuis, 158. Cathedral of St. Gudule, 158. Notre Dame de Cha- pelle, 159. Shops, 161. Lace, 161. Theatre, cafes, post- office, 160. Diligences, 161. Promenades and environs, 161. Excuision to Waterloo, 161 ; to Tervueren, 183 Brussels * to Calais, by Lille, 102-104 - *to Malines and Ant- werp, by railroad, 152 to Waterloo, Namur, &c, 162 to Liege, by Louvain, 182 to Aix-la-Chapelle, by Maestricht, 186 to Monsand Valenciennes, 194 "Bubbles," utility of the, 485 Biickeburg, 360 Buhl, 537 Bunzlau, 412 Burg, 353 Burtscheid, 241 Biitgenbach, 311 Butzbach, 378 Cadsand, 115 Calais, 102 to Brussels, by Lille, 102 to Courtrai, by Dunkirk, Ypres, 110 to Ostend and Bruges, 114 to Charleroi and Namur, 188 Camperdown, 64 Canals in Holland, 12 Canal, Great, of North Hol- land, 60 Garden, 308 Carlsruhe, 535. Its origin, palace, 535. Bleithurm,535. Theatre, other buildings, 535 to Baden, 541 to Strasburg, 547 to Basle, 538 * to Heidelberg and Frankfurt, 538 Carriage travelling, xxiv Carriages, duty on, 102 Cassel in France, 1 1 1 Cassel, Hesse, 379. Palace museum, 379. Pictures, 380. Marble bath, 381. Wil- helmshohe, 381 to Berlin, 367 to Hanover, 330, 382 to Gottingen and the Harz, 386 * to Diisseldorf, 367 * to Frankfurt, 378 to Eisenach and Mei- ningen, 473 [W. G.] COLOGNE. Castel on the Rhine, 290, 507 Castles on the Rhine, 280 Caub, 279 Caxton, William, 245 Celle, 329 Charlemagne's grave, 238 Charlemont, 192 Charleroi, 188 Charles V., 133 Charlottenburg, 348 Chaudfontaine, 178 Chemnitz, 470 Chimes, or carillons, 97 Chokier, 172 Churches, English, abroad, — Rotterdam, 27. Amsterdam, 51. Ghent, 134. Brussels, 161. Baden, 545. Ham- burg, 323. Circles of Germany, 210 Circular notes, xvi Clans! hat, 388. School of Mines, 388. Reservoirs, smelting- houses, 289 CI eves, 235 Clothes for travelling, xxvi Cobern, 310 Coblenz, 269-274. Fortifica- tions of, 269. Good head- quarters for travellers on the Rhine, 271. Church of St. Castor, and fountain, 270. Courts of justice, 271. I lea- asnt excursions from, 272 to Mayence, up the Rhine, 274 to Miinster-Maifeld and Elz, 31 1 to Treves, by post-road, 298 , * up the Mo- the selle. 305 to Frankfurt, by Brunnen of Nassau, 482 Coburg — describerl, 475 * to Eisenach, 474 *to Gotha and Gottingen, 475 * to Leipzig by Rudol- stadt, 476 Cochem, 308 Coins, tables of foreign, xxxix — xiiii Cologne, 244. Cathedral, 246. Shrine of the three kings, 247. Dom-bild, 248. Church of St. Peter, and Rubens' Crucifixion, 248. Church of St. Ursula and 11,000 Vir- gins, 249. Santa Maria, 249. St. Gereon, 250. Museum of pictures, 251. Eau de Cologne, «52 to Frankfurt, by Siegburg and Limburg, 3 1 6 to Altenberg Abbey, 253 * to Aix la-ClMpelle, 242 to Bonn and Coblenz, up the Rhine, 254 DEVENTER. Cologne* to Diisseldorf, 253 to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 367 to Berlin, by Minden, 353 to Brunswick, 370 to Hanover, 358 * to Nijmegen and Rot- terdam, by the Rhine, 232 * by land, 235 Commissionaire, xxviii Constance — described, 553. Minster, 553 council of, 554 * to Schaffhausen, 555 Continent, landing on the, xxviii Conz, 190 Copernicus at Frauenburg, 408 Corneli-Miinster, 311 Corvey, 372, 397 Cuthen, 356 Couriers, xxi at Calais, 104 Courtrai, 1 13 Cracow, 426, and S. Germ. Handbook Crefeld, 236 t'udowa, 425 Cus, 306 Custom-houses abroad, xxviii. ; in England, xxix of Prussia, 228 Ciistrin, 404 Cuxhaven, 319 Dahn, 523 Danube, source of the, 552 Danzig, 405. Granaries, ca- thedrals, 405. Picture by Van Eyck, 405. Arthus Hof, fortifications of, 406. Duke of, 406 to Marienburg and K>>- nigsberg, 407 — * to Berlin, 404 * by Brom- berg, 410 Darmstadt, 523. Catholic church, palace, pictures, 524. Fossils, 524. Theatre, Exercier Haus, 524. Gar- dens, Casino, wild boars, 525 to the Odenwald, 523 to Heidelberg and Carls- ruhe, 523 * to Frankfurt, 523 Daun, 315 Delft, 28 Dendermonde or Termonde railroad, 135 Dennewiiz, 354 Dessau, 355 Detmold, 377 Deutz, 252. Good inn, 244 Deux Ponts, 523 Deventer, 77 2b 3 560 IWDEX, DETNZE.. Deynze, 107 Diebelich, 319 Diepholz, 374 Dietz, 502' Dinant, 191 to Givet, 192 to Hanssur-Lesse, Bouil- lon, 192 Dinglingen, 538 Dirschau, 405, 407 Dixmude, 114 Dobberan, 328 Doesburg, 85 Dollars, Prussian, 228 ; Saxon, 427 Dolme, 397 * Donaueschingen, source of Danube, 552 - l to Sehaffhausen, 552 * to Oft'enburg, 551 to Freiburgj 555 Donnersberg, 510 Dort, or Dordrecht, 81 Synod of, 81 Dortmund. 358- Douai, 106 Drachenfels, 262 Dreiser- Weiher, 315 Dresden, 440. Post-office, 441. Elbe bridge, 442. Churches and church music, 442. Terrace of Briihl, 442. Palace, 442. Collections — mode of obtaining admis sion, 443. Green Vault, 443. Picture "gallery, 445. Plaster casts, 449. Zwinger, 450. Rustkammer, or ar- moury, 450. Museum of natural history, 453. En- 5 ravings and drawings, 454. apanese palace, 454. An- tiquities, 454. Porcelain, 456. Library, 456. Thea- tre, 457. Clubs, shops, 457. Environs, 458. Moreau's monument, 458. Dance of Death, 458. Baths of Link, 459. Schiller's summer- house, 459. Weber's house, 459. Dresden to the Saxon Swit- zerland, 460-467 * to Berlin, 358 to Breslau, 415 * to Leipzig and Frank- furt, 42*, 439 to the Bastei, 461 1 * to Schandau, 4 65 . to Hof, 467 to Plauensche Grund and Tharand, 467 Driburg, 372 Duisburg, 233 Dunes of Holland, 15 Dunkirk, 111 to Bruges, 114 Diiren, 243 Diirkheim, 521 Durlach, 534 ERZGEBIRGE. DiissET.ooRF, 234. School of painting, 234 to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 367 to Cologne, 235 * to Nijmegen and Arn- hem, 232 to Bremen, by Miinster, 372 *to Rotterdam, 235 Dutch manners, peculiarities of, 18 Dutch clocks, 551 Dutch school of art, 17 Dykes of Holland, 8 Eberbaeh, 288, 490. Cellars of, 288 Eberstein, Neu, 545 Ebernburg, Sickingen's Castle, 508 Echternach, 313 Eckhardsberge, 434 Ehrenbreitstein, 271 Ehrenberg, 310 Ehrenfels, 283 Eibenstock, 473 Eifek the Upper, 31 4 the Lower, 296. Inhabit- ants of, 314 excursions in, 296 Eisenach, 429. Wartburg-, 429 Eisleben, Luther's birthplace, 370 Elbe, mouth of the, 318. Sources of, 420. In Saxony, the most beautiful parts of its course, 460 from Schandau to Dres- den, 465. Elberfeld, 367 to Berlin, 367 to Hanover, 329 * to Cologne, 370 Elbing, 407 Elbinjjerode, 392 Electors of Germany, 21 1 Elfeld, 289 Eltville, 289 Elz, castle of, 309 Emden, 77 Emmendingen, 538 Emmerich, 233 Ems, 482 to Frankfurt, 482 Engen, 552 Engers, 267 (Westphalia), 359 Enghien, 110 Enghien, Duke, his treach- erous seizure, 538 Enkhuisen, 68 Eppstein, 504 Erbach, 288 Erbach in the Oldenwald, 526 Lrdmannsdorf, 420 Erfurt, 431 Erpeler Lei, 264 Erzgebirge, 472 FREIBERG, Ettenheim, 538 Extersteine, 376 Extra post, 203, 229 Eyck, Van, school of, 9§ Faintings of, at Berlin, 341. At Ghent, 1 29 Fachmgen, 503 Falkenlei, 299 Falkenstein, 504 Fees of Prussian physicians, 221 Fehrbellin, 331 Feldberg, 505 Fire-watch, 223 '- ischbach, 420 Fischbeck, 397 Flemish School of Painting, 98-102 Floreffe, 188 Flushing, 116 Fontenoy, 109 Franehimont, 178 Franeker, 76 Frankenstein, 424 Frankenthal, 514 Frankfurt on the Main,. 495-501. Inns, Old and New Town, 495. Cathedral, 495. Romer, 496. Saalhof, 496. Stadal Museum of pictures, 497. Senkenherg Museum, 498. Danneker's statue of Ariadne, 498. Public li- brary, birthplace of Gothe and of the Roths.hilds, 498. Jews, 498. Diet, 499. Thea- tre, casino, - 500. Shops, public gardens, 500. New cemetery, 5oo. Fairs, 499. Offenbach, 501 to Leipzig, by Gotha, Er- furth, Weimar, 428 to Cassel and Berlin, 378 to Cassel and Hanover, 378 * to Coblenz and the Brunnen of Nassau, 482 * to Mayence, 506 * to Homburg and the Taunus, 503 to Basle, by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, 523 to Baden - Baden, ard Strasburg, 541, 547. Frankfurt on the Oder, 412. to Breslau, 411 to Hirschbergand Warrn- brunn, 416 Frauenburg, 40S Frederick the Great, at Rheins- berg, 331. Relics of, at Ber- lin, 337. His tomb and sword, 350. His palace of Sans Souci, 351. His death, 351. Frederiksoord, pauper colonies of, 73 Freiberg, 468. Church, 468. INDEX. 561 FREIBURG. School of Mines, 469. Mines and miners, 469 Freiburg in Breisgau, 538. Beautiful Minster, 539. Uni- versity, 539 to SchafThausen, by the Valley of Hell, 555 to Basle, 540 Freiwaldau, 425 Freyr, 192 Friedberg, 378 Friedrichsstein, 266 Friedland,Wallenstein's castle, 417. Friesdorf, 260 Friesland, 76 Fulda, 428 Furnes, 114 Fiirstenberg, 396 Fiirstenberg, 552. Palace of Prince, 552 Fiirstenstein Castle, 422 Gadebusch, 331 Geilnau, 503 Geisenheim, 287 Geldern, 236 Gelnhausen, 428 Genappe, 168 Georgen, St., 551 Gera, 447 Germany. — Preliminary in- formation, 197-226. Pass- ports, 197. Inns, 198. Ta- bles-d'hute, 199. Beds, 200. Valets-de-place, 200. Cus- tom-houses, 201. Modes of travelling, 203. Schnell- posts, 205. Voiturier, 206. Peculiarities of German manners, 213. Public gar- dens and taverns, 215. Kirmes, 216. Turnpike- men, 217. Handwerksbur- schen, 217. Watering-places, 218. Towns, 223, Burial- grounds, 225. German doctors' fees, 221 Germevsheim, 520 to Strasburg, 520 Gernrode, 394 Gernsbach, 546 Gerolstein, 3 ! 5 Gheel, 152 Ghent, 126-135, Belfry, 128. Church of St. Bavori, 128. Paintings of Van Eyck, 128, University, 130. Hotel de Ville, 131. Museum, 131. Marche au Vendredi, 131. The English at Ghent, 132. Charles V., 133. Citadel, 134. Beguinage, 134. By- loque, 134. House of Cor- rection, 135 * to Bruges, 120 to Antwerp, 136 * to Calais, 110 * to Oudenarde, 1 06 HAGENOSSEN. Ghistelles, 114 Giessen, — University, &c„ 378 descent of the Lahn from, 501 Gillenfeld, 316 Gitschin, 422 Givet, 192 Glandorf, 374 Glatz, 424 Gleiwitz, 426 Gliickstadt, 319 Gnadau, 358 Goar, St., 277 Godelheim, 396 Godesberg, 261 to the Seven Mountains, 261 to the Ahr Valley, 294 Gogolin, 426 Gothe, the poet's birthplace, 498. House and collections, 433 Goldene Aue, 370 Gondorf, 310 Gorcum, 82 Gorlitz, 4 1 5 Goslar, 389. Cathedral and altar of Krodo, 390. Ram- melsberg, 390 Gut ha, 430 GSttingen, 384. University, 384. Library and Museum, 385 to the Harz, 386 * to Cassel, 384 Gouda, 78. Painted glass at, 78 Grafenberg, 425 Graudenz, 411 Gravelines, 111 Greifswald, 401 Grohnde, 397 Groningen, 76 Groschen, 228. Gute gros- chen, 427 GrossGerau, 525 Gross-Gorschen, battle of, 435 Grolenberg, 377 Grotius, escape from prison, 82 Guben, 412 Guilders, Dutch, 2 Gustavus Adolphus landing in Germany, 401. His deatti at Liitzen, 435. On the Rhine, 512 Gutemberg, the inventor of printing, 293 Gutenfels, 279 Giitersloh, 359 Haarlem, 42. Organ, 43. Tu- lips, 44. Siege, 45. Lake of, 47 to Amsterdam, 48 1 to Alkmaar and H elder, 64 Hagelskaule, 315 Hagen, 368 Hagenossen, 397 HEIDELBURG. Hagenow, 327 Hague, 30-37. Binnenhof, 30 Picture Gallery, 31. Ja- panese Museum, 33. His- torical relics, 34. Storks, 35. Theatre, 35. House in the wood, 35. Schevenin- gen, 36 to Utrecht, 79 Hal, 194 Halberstadt, 395 Halle, 356. Salt springs, 357. University, 356. Orphan House, 357 Halloren, 357 Hambach, 522 Hamburg, 319-324. Money, 319. Costumes. 321. Build- ings, 321. Institutions, 322 . Jungfernstieg, 322. Theatre, 322. Ramparts, 322. En- virons, 323 * to London, 318 to Liibeck, 324 to Bremen, 330 ■ to Hanover, 329 to Dobberanand Rostock, 327 to Berlin, 330 Hameln, 384 Hanau, 428 Handwerksburschen, 217 Hanover, 361. Palaces, 361, 362. Church, 361. Library, 361. Picture Gallery, 361. Leibnitz's Monument, 361, Waterloo Monument, ^361. Herrenhausen, 3*2 ^ to Bremen, 386 > to Brunswick, 329 * to Hamburg, 329 * to Gottingen, 384 * to Frankfurt by Cassel, 384 * to Berlin , 330 * to Cologne, by Minden, 358 *toPyrmont, 382 Hans-sur-Lesse, cave of, 193 Harburg, 329 Harlingen, 76 Hartekamp, 45 Harz, the, 386-390. Gene- ral account of, best mode of visiting, exaggerated de- scriptions of its scenery, 386, 387. Roads, 387. Mines, 388, 389 Harzburg, 365 Harzgerode, 394 Hattenheim, 288 Hatto, Bishop, and the rats, 283 Hausach, 551 Herstelle, 396 Hehlen, 397 Heidelberg, 529-534. Its misfortunes, 529. Univer- sity and library, 530. Club, 530. Churches, 530. Olim- 562 INDEX. HEIDELBERG. pia Morata's grave, 531. Castle, 531. Tun, 531. Gar- den, walks, 533. Wolf's- brunnen, 534. Hirschgasse, 533. Konigstuhl, 533 Heidelberg to Carlsruhe and Baden, 534 * to Schwetzingen and Mannheim, 514 * to Darmstadt and Frank- furt, 523 to Wiirzbnrg, 556 Heidenmauer, 521 Heiligenstadt, 369 Heimberg, 280 Heisterbach, ruined abbey of, 261 Helder, 66. Great dyke of, 67 to Amsterdam, 67 Heligoland, 318 Hell, Valley of, 555 Helvoetsluis, 24 Heppenheim, 528 Herford?359 Herring fishery, 57 Herrmann's Monument, 377 Herrenhausen, 362 Herrnhut, 422 Herstal, 177 Hertogensbosch, 87 Herzberg, 358 Heuscheuer, 424 Hiddensoe, 404 Hildburghausen, 474 Hildesheim, 385 Hillesheim, 314 Hernnskretschen, 465 Himchberg, 417 Hochheim vineyards, 507 Hochkirch, battle of, 415 Hochstein, 464 Hof, 472 Hofgeismar, 382 Hoegne, valley of, 178 Hohensiegburg, 233 Hohentwiel, 553 Hohnstein, 464 Holland, introductory infor- mation, 1-24. Passports, 1. Money, 2. Roads, posting, railroads, 2. Trekschuiten, 4. General description of, 5. Dykes of, 8. Canals, 12, Polders, 13. Gardens, 15. Paintings, 17. Manners of the inhabitants, 18. Ag-- riculture, 21. Herring fish- ery, 57 Holland, North, 59-69 Hollenthal, 556 Holzappel, 503 Holzminden, 397 Homburg, Hesse, 505 in Rhenish Bavaria, 511 Hoorn, 68 Horn, 376 Hornberg, 551 Houtt'alize, 189 Hougoumont, 166 House in the wood, Hague, 35 KONIGSHuTTE. Hoxter, 372, 382 to Pyrmont, 382 Hoya, 398 Hubbad, 537 Hubertsburg, 439 Hubert, St., 193 Hudibras, Author of, account of Hollmd, 8 Hundsriick, 316 Huss, John, trial and execu- tion of, 554 Huy, 171 Igel, Roman monument at, 304 Ilmenau, 479 Ilsenburg, 391 Ingelheim, palace of Charle- magne, 506 Inns and Innkeepers, xxx. Interment, prevention of pre- mature, 226 herlohn, 368 Jager, the Wild, legend of, 527 Jauer, 413 Jemappes, 196 Jena, University, 478 Johann-Georgenstadt, 473 Johannisberg, 287. Wine, 287 Juliers, 253 Jung-Bunzlaw, 422 Jiiterbog, 354 Kahla, 477 Kaiserslautern, 511 Kaiserswerth, 233 Kamburg, 476 Kampen, 85 Kandrzin, 426 Karlsberg, 425 Karlshafen, 382, 396 Katwijk, the Rhine at, 41, 84 Katzbach, 413. Battle of the, 413 Kehl, 547. Steam-boat from, 520 Kellburg, 314 Kemnade, 397 Kenzingen, 538 Kidrich, 289 Kiel, 324 Kinzig, valley of the, 551 Kircheim Boland, 510 Kirmes, 216 Klausthal, 388 Klopstock's grave, 323. Birth- place, 395 Kolberg, 401 Koln, 243 Konigsberg, 408. . Cathedral, 408. University, 409. Pil- lau, sturgeon and amber fishery, 409 to Tilsit and Memel, 410 to Danzig and Berlin, 410 Koniggratz, 425 Konigshiitte, 426 LEIDEN. Konigstein in Saxony, 466 Konigstein in the Taunus, 504 Konigsstuhl, 275 Konigswinter, 261 Korlin, 401 Komer's grave, 331 Kosel, 426 Kosen, 434 Kothen, 356 Kreutzers, 481 Kreuzberg, near Bonn, 260 Kreuznach, 507 to Worms by Alzei, 5 1 4 Kriblowitz, grave of Bliicher at, 421 Knhstall, 464 Kuilenburg, 84 Kunersdorf, battle of, 412 Kiistrin, 404 Kyll river, 315 Kynast, castle and legend, 419 Laach, Lake of, 296. Excur- sion to, 256, 296. Abbev of, 297 Laeken, palace of, 155 Lahn, the river, mouth of, 274. Descent of, from Giessen to Ems, 501 Lahnstein, 275 Ln?idau, 522 Landeck, 424 Landsberg, 405 Landshut, 420 Landskron, castle of, 512 Landstuhl, 511 Langenbriicken, 534 Langen-Schwulbach, 4S6 Languages, value of foreign, to the traveller, xv. La Trappe, 151 Lauban, 416 Lauenhurg, 330 Lauenforde, 396 Lavfzettel, 204 Lausitz, Lusatia, 415 Leau, 186 Leer, 77 Leeuwarden, 76 Lehrte, 329, 362 Leipzig, 436. Fairs, 436. Book-trade, 436. Univer- sity, 437. Auerbach"s cellar, 437. Gardens, 438. Battle of, 438 * to Berlin, 353 to Dresden, 439 * to Frankfurt, 428 to Carlsbad, by railway to Altenburg, 471 to Coburg, 476 Lek, 83 Lemgo, 377 Leopoldsliafen, 520 Lfiden, 37. Siege of, 37. University, 39. Museum of Natural History, 39. Egyp- INDEX. 563 LICIITENFELS tian Museum, 39. Japanese Museum, 40 Lichtenfels, 76 Liebeneck, 276 Liebenstein, 276 ■ Baths in the Thiiringer Wald, 473 Liebethaler Grund, 462 Liebewerda Baths, in Bohe- mia, 416 Liebfrauenmilch, 513 Liege, 173. Coal-mines, 173. Bishop's palace, 173. Lo- calities and events of Quen- tin Durward, 175. Univer- sity, 174. Walloon dialect, 175 to Chaudfontaine and Spa, 177 to Aix la-Chapelle, by Verviers, 177 * to Louvain, 182 * to Namur, 1 70] Liegnitz, 413 Liere, 152 Lilienstein, 463, 466 Lille, 105 to Brussels, 106 Lillo Fort, 1 1 7 Limburg in Belgium, 182 Limburg on the Lahn, 502 Limburg on the Lenne, 368 Linnaeus's residence in Hol- land, 45 Linz on the Rhine, 264 Lippe Detmold, 377 Lissa. battle of, 413, Lobau, 415 Lobshorn, Stud at, 377 Loevestein, Giotius's prison, 82 Lohnbedienter, 200 Lohnkutscher, 206 London to Rotterdam, 24 to Ostf-nd, 119 to Antwerp, 114 to Hamburg, 318 Loo, the, 77 Lorch, 280 Lorsch, 528 Losheim, 3^2 Louvain, 183, Magnificent Hotel de Ville, 183. Cathe- dral, 1S4. University, 184. Tower of .Tansenius, 185 to Maestricht and Aix- la-Chapelle, 186 ■ to Liege, 1 82 — — * to B, ussels, 186 Lowenberg, 417 Lubeck, 324-327 Liiben, 41 1 Ludwigslust, 331 to Schwerin and Dobbe- ran, 331 Luneburg, 329 Lurlei, 278 Luther at l'i§leben,370. Mag- deburg, 3fi«. Erfurt, 432. "Wittenberg, 354. Capture of, 474. At Coburg, 475. MAYENCE. His beech-tree, 474. Worms, 514. Wartburg, 429 Lutter, 372 Liittich, 1 73 Lutzen, 435. The Swede's Stone, 435. Campaign of 1813, 435 Liitzerath, 299 Luxemburg, 189 * to Namur, 189 Maars, or crater lakes, of the Eifel, 314 Maas, 24 Madenberg, 522 Maestrichi, 186. Citadel and caves of the Pietersberg, 187. to Aix-la Chapelle, 186 * to Brussels, 186 Magdeburg, 365-367. Forti- fications, 365. Cathedral, 366. Gardens, 366. Luther at, 366 * to Berlin, by railroad, 349 * to Hanover and Cologne, 358 — * to Nordhausen and the Harz, 394 * to Brunswick and Pa- derborn, 370 to Wittenherge, 398 Magdespiung, 394 Mainz, 290 Ma/ines, 153. Cathedral, 153. Paintings, 153. Church of Notre llarae, 154. Lace, 154 Malmedi, 314 Malplaqnet, 195 Mannheim, 515. Its history, 515. Has few objects to detain travellers, 516. Pa- lace, gardens, theatre, club, 516 to Heidelberg and Schwet- zingen, 516 to Spires, 517 ; and Stras- burj,', 520 to Deux Ponts, by Lan- dau, 520 Maps, travelling, of Germany, 203 Marburg, 378. Church of St. Elizabeth, 379 Marceau, monument of, 268 Marche en 1 amenne, 189 Marhnburg on the Vistula, 4 07 Marienbnri) on the Moselle, 307 Marken, isle of, 69 Marksburg, 275 Marvel, Andrew, verses on Holland, 8 Maye-n, 298 Mayence. 290-294. Cathe- dral, 2 ( w. Public gardens, 292. Tower of Drusus, MUIDEN. theatre, 292. Museum, 292. Printing invented here, 293. Gutemburg's statue, 293 Mayenck* to Coblenz and down the Rhine, 274 *to Bingen by Ingelheim, 506 to Frankfurt, by railway, 506 to Mannheim and Heidel- berg, 511-520 to Metz, 510 by the Rhine to Worms, Mannheim, Spires, and Strasburg. 511 Measures, Foreign, Table of, xliv Mechlin, 153 Medemblik, 68 Meerfelder Maar, 315 Meinau, isle of, 555 Meinburg, 376 Meiningen, 474 Meissen — Cathedral, 440 ; china manufactory, 439i Meissner mountain, 369 Melibucus, 525 Memel, 410 Mendig quarries, 297 Menin, 113 Meppel, 73 Merseburg, 435 Metternich, birthplace of Frince, 270. Castles, 308 Mettlach, 510 *Metz to Mayence, 510 Meuse, the river, from Namur to Liege, 171 from Namur to Dinant and Givet, 1 90 Middelburg, 116 Minden or Miinden, 360. Battle of, 360 Money, best mode of taking abroad, xvi. Tables of fo- reign, with the English value, xxxix-xliii Monriikendam, 69 Mons, 195 *to Brussels, 194 Monfabaur, 502 Montjoie, 311 Montjardin, 181 Montroyal, 307 Moritzburg, 357 Mosbach, 556 Mosklle river, junction with the Rhine, 2H8. Ice on the, 269. Descent of, 305-311. Wines, 305. Steamers on the, 304 Moselkern, 309 Mosehveiss, 311 MnuscTon, 1 14 Mouse Tower, 283 Mi'ililberg, 439 Mi'ihlheim on the Ruhr, 233, 358. Miihlliausen, 475 Muiden, 72_ 564 INDEX, HtjNDEN. Miinden, 384 Munster, 372. Anabaptists, 373 to Osnabruck and Bre- men, 374 to Detmold, 377 Miinster-Maifeld, 298 Muskau, 415 Murg, valley of the, 546 My Uncle Toby, 136, 170 Naarden, 73 Nachod, 425 Nahe, river — mouth of, 283. Excursion up the, 507 Namur, 170. Cathedral, 170. Church of St. Loup, 170, Citadel, 170. Cutlery, 170. to Dinant and Givet, 190. to Liege, 170 to Luxemburg and Treves, 189 Nassau — Coins — Posting, 480, 481. Castle of, 485. Baths and Brunnen, 482, 494 Nauheim, 378 Naumburg, 434 Nechar, source of, 552 at Heidelberg, 533 Nenndorf, 360 Neuendorf, 278 Neufahrvvasser, 406 Neu-groschen, 427 Neumagen, 306 Neustadt- Kberswalde, 399 Neustadt an der Haardt, 521 Neuss, 236 Neuwied, 267 Nicholas, St., 137 Niederselters, 488 Niederwald, the, 285 Nienburg, 386 Nierstein vineyard, 512 Nieuwport. 84 Nieue Diep, 66 Numegen, 71. Arrival, 83. Inns at, 71. * to Amsterdam, 71 * to Rotterdam, 80 to Cologne by the Rhine s 232. by land, 235 Nimptsch, 424 Nivelles, 168 Nonnenwerth, 263 Nordernei Isle, 376 Nordhausen, 369 to Halle, 370 to Magdeburg and the Harz, *94 Novdheim, 388 Norwegian church of wood, 4 1 9 Niirburg, 296 Oberhoff, 476 Oberlahnstein, 275 Oberstein, 509 Ober-Ursel, 505 Obprwpsel. 278 PICTURE GALLERIES. Odenwald, excursion in the, 525-527 Oderberg, 426 Oederan, 470 Offenbach, 501 Offenburg, 538, 551 to Schaffhausen, by the vale of the Kinzig and Do- naueschingen, 551 Oggersheim. 515 Ohlau, 425 Ohr, 397 Ohrdruff, 476 Oker, vale of, 389 Oldenburg, 330 Oldendort, 397 Oliva, 406 Omer, St., 104 Oppeln, 425 Oppenheim, beautiful Gothic church, 512 Oschatz, 439 Oschersleben, 365 Osnabruck, 374 Ostend, 1 1 9 ■ to Bruges and Ghent, 120 *to Calais, 1 14. Osterode, 388 Otterberg, 511 Ottersweier, 537 Ottensen, 323 Ottowalder Grund, 462 Oudenarde, 107 Paderborn, 371 Pallien, 304 Paschenburg, 360 Passow, 399 Passports — Necessity of, and mode of obtaining, xvii. French, xx. Prussian, xx. Austrian, xx. Belgian, xx. Dutch, 1. English and Fo- reign Consuls', xxi. English Secretary of State's, xxi. Paulinzelle, 477 Paysde Waes, 136 Perck — Teniers' house, 155 Pfahlgraben, 493 Pfalz, 279 Phillipsburg, 519 Physicians' fees in Germany, 221 Picture Galleries : — Amsterdam, 52 Antwerp, 1 45 Berlin, 340 Bruges, 124 Brunswick, 362 Brussels, 156 Cassel, 380 Cologne, 251 Darmstadt, 524 Dresden, 445 Frankfurt, 497 Ghent, 1 3 1 Hague, 31-33 Hanover, 361 ■ Louvain, 184 RAILROADS. Pietersberg, near Maestricht caves of, 187 Pillnitz, 461 Pirmasens, 523 Pima, 467 Pisport, 306 Platte, the, 495 Plauen, 472 Plauensche Grund, 467 Polders, 13. In N. Holland, 68 Polle, 397 Poniatow skv's death, 436 Poppelsdorf, 260 Porta Westphalica, 359 Posen, 411 Posting — in France and Bel- gium, 90 ; in Germany, 203 ; in Prussia, 229 ; in Saxony, 427 ; in Nassau, Hesse, &c, 481 Potsdam, 350-362. Tomb of Frederick the Great, 350. Palace, 350. Sans Souci, 35 1 . New Palace, 352. Russian colony, 353 to Magdeburg, 349 to Dresden, 358 * to Berlin, 349 Prebisch Thor, 465 Prenzlow, 399 Priessnitz' Water Cure Estab- lishment, 424 Prum, 312 to Gerolstein and Spa, 314 Prussia — Passport, xx. New custom-house system, 228. Money of, 228.* Travelling in, 229. Posting in, 229. Inns, 231 Prussian commercial league, 201. Putfendorf's birthplace, 470 Pumpernickel, 368 Purmerende, 69 Putbus baths, 402 Pyrmont, v atering-place, 383. Mineral springs, 383. Gas Grotto, 383 to Hanover, 382 *to Frankfurt, 378, 382 *to Cologne, 358 Quatre Bras, 169 Quedlinburg, 395 Quentin Durward, 175 Radolfzell, 553 Rafts on the Rhine, 255 Railroads on the Continent: Amsterdam to Haarlem, Leiden, the Hague, and Rotterdam, 42, 46" Amsterdam to Utrecht and Arnhem, 69 Belgian, 92, 120, 152, 155 Mechlin to Li< a ge and Aix-la-Chapelle. 177, 182 Aix la Chapelle to Co- logne, 237 RAILROADS. ,roads on the Continent : - — Mayence to Frankfurt, 294, 500. — Berlin to Potsdam, 349 ■ to Kothen and Leipzig, 353 to Stettin, 399 to Frankfurt the Oder, 411 — Breslau to Cracow, 425 to Vienna, 426 on — Cassel to Eisenach, 473 — Diisseldorf to Elberfeld, 367 — Brunswick to Wolfenbiit- tel and Harzburg, 365 — Brunswick to Hanover,329 — Brussels to Namur, by Charleroi, 188 — Magdeburg toLeipzig,438 — Leipzig to Dresden, 439 — toHof, 471 to Carlsbad, 472 Frankfurt to Mayence and Wiesbaden, 495, 506 Mannheim to Heidelberg, 517 -— — Frankfurt to Heidelberg, 523 Heidelberg to Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, and Basle, 523, 534 Rammelsberg mines, 390 Rastadt, Palace, 536. Con- gresses of, 536 Ratibor, 426 Batzeburg, 324 Rehme, 359, 397 Reichenbach, 415, 471 Reichenberg, 423 Reichenberg Castle, 278 Reichartshausen Schloss, 288 Reinerz, 424 Reinhardsbrunn, 431 Remagen, 264 to Ahrweiler and Alten- ahr, 294 Reynolds, Sir J., description of the Dutch school, 17 School of Rubens, 99 pictures at the Hague, 31 at Amsterdam, 52 ■- at Antwerp, 139- 148 at Cologne, 248 Rheenen, 84 Rheineck, 265 Rheinfels, 276 Rheingau, 280 Rheingrafenstein, 508 Rheinsberg, 331 Rheinstein, castle of New, 281 Khense, 275 The Rhine, mouth of, at Kat- wijk, 41, 84 (A) in Holland, 80-88 — ; — ascent of, not recom- mended, 80 Waal branch, Rotterdam to Nijmegen, 80 INDEX. RilGEN. The Rhine, Lek branch, Rot- terdam to Arnhem, 83 IJssel branch, 85 (B) from Nijmegen to Cologne, 232-235 (C) Cologne to Coblenz, 254 Byron's description of, 254 ; a German account of, 255 Rafts on, 255 Scenery of, 257 best mode of seeing, 257 (D) Coblenz to Mayence, 274 scenery near Bingen, 284 castles, 280 wines and vineyards, 281, 286 (E) from Mayence to Strasburg 511-520 ■> scenery dull, 511 gold washed from its sands, 520 caution as to taking places in the steamers direct from London, 257 Richard Cceur-de-Lion's pri- son, 522 Riesa, 439 Riesengebirge, 416-422. Ge- neral account of the, 416. Sketch of a tour in, 417 Rinteln, 397 Rochefort, 193 Rodenstein Castle, 527 Roderberg, 263 Rogers on Travel, x Rolandsaule, 375 Rolandseck, 263 Roneberg, 478 Rosenau, Prince Albert's birth- place, 475 Rossbach, 435 Rossla, 376 Ro*strappe, 393 Rostock, 328 Rotterdam, 25-28 to Hague and Amster- dam, 28 to Gouda and Utrecht, 78 to Nijmegen, by the Waal, 80 to Arnhem by the Lek, 83 ascent of the Rhine from, 85 Roubaix, 107 Roulers, 136 Riibeland, 392 Rubens's chair, 145. Birth- place, 252 chateau at Steen, 155 pictures at Ghent, 131 Antwerp, 139, 565 145 school 99 Rudesheim, 286. Rudolstadt, 477 Rugen, isle of, 401 — Cologne, 248 and character of, Wine, 286 SIEG RIVER. Ruhrort, 233' Ruhr valley, 233 Rumpchen, 295 Ryswyk, 30 Saalfeld, 477 Saarbriicken, 509 Saardam, Peter the Great's house, 63 Saarlouis, 510 Sagan, 412 Sagard, 403 Salm-Dyck, 253 Salzbrunn, 422 Salzig, 276 SansSouci, 351 Sassbacb, death of Turenne, 537 Saventhem, Vandyck's adven- ture at, 1 82 Saxon Switzerland, 460-467 Saxony, 427-479. Money 427. Posting, 427 Sayn Valley, and iron-works of, 268 * Schaffhausen to Freiburg, 555 # — to Offenburg, 551 Schandau, 464 ■ to Dresden, 465 Schaumburg Lippe, 360 Schelde, 115 Scheveningen, 36 Schiedam, 28 Schierstein, 289 Schlangenbad, 488 Schlayen, 171 Schleusingen, 479 Schlusselburg, 398 Schmalkalden, 474 Schmiedeberg, 420 Schneeberg, 472 Schneekoppe, 419 Schnellposts, 205 Schonberg, or Schomberg, 278 Schonecken, 312 Schonbornlust, 268 Schoonhoven, 84 Schrock, 520 Sehulpforta, 434 Schwalbach, 485. " The Bub- bles," 485. Springs, 486. Excursions, 487 Schwarzenbeck, 330 Schwarza, 477 Schwarzburg Castle, 477 Schwedt, 399 Schweidnitz, 421 Schwelm, 368 Schwerin, 327 Schwetzingen, 516 Seesen, 372 Setters, 488 Seltzer water, 488 Sembach, 511 Senner Wald, 377 Seraing, 172 Seven Mountains, 262 Sidney, Sir Philip, 85 Siebengebirge, 260, 262 Sieg river, 258 566 INDEX. SIEGBURG. Siegburg, 316 Silberberg, 424 Silesia, 412, 416 Singen, 553 Sinzig, 265 Skeleton tours, xxxii-xxxvii Schmollen, 478 Sobernheim, 509 Soder, 386 Soest, 370 Soignies, forest of, 162 Solingen, 367 Sombreffe, 169 Sonnenberg — its singular ma- nufactures, 477 Sorau, 412 Spa, 179. Mineral springs, 179, Redoute, 179, Caves near, 181 * to Liege, 177 - to Verviers, 181 to Malmedi and the Eifel, 313 Spandau, 331 Speier, 517 Speyk, Van, 118 s Spires, 517-519. Its eventful history, 517. Atrocities of the French, 518. Cathedral, 518. Antiquities, 519. Alt portal, Retscher, 519 to Strasburg. 511, 519 * to Mayence, 511 Sprottau, 412 Stadtkyll, 314 Staffelstein, 476 Stargard, 410 Starkenburg, 307 Stavelot, 31 4 Steamboats, list of, xxvii. London to Rotterdam, 24 ■ Antwerp, 1 14 Ostend, 119 ■ Hamburg, 318 Rotterdam to Nijmegen, up the Rhine, 80 Amsterdam to Hamburg, 59 Cologne to Coblenz and Mayence, 258 ■ Liibeck to St. Petersburg, 327 Mayence to, Mannheim and Strasburg, 511 Steen, Rubens' chateau at, 155 Steenkerke, 195 Steig, 556 Steinberg vineyard and wine, 289 Stendal, 398 Sterne's Advice to Travellers, xii Stettin, 400 toS winemiinde andRiigen, 400, 401 * to Berlin, railroad, 399 Stolzenau, 398 Stolberg, 394 Stolberg in Rhen. Prussia, 242 Stolzenfels, 274 TREKSCHUITEN. Storks in Holland, 20 Stralsund, 402 Strasburg, 548. Monument to Dessaix, 547. The Rhine at, 547. Minster, 548. Spire, 548. Marshal Saxe's monu- ment, 549. Museum and library, 549. Invention of printing, 550. Arsenal, 550. The Jews' Synagogue, 550. Pates de foies gras, 550. Ru- prechstau, 550. to Paris in 30 hours, 550 to the Ban de la Roche, 550 * to Mayence, 511 to Schaffhausen and Con- stance, by Donaueschingen, 551 * to Baden, 547 * to Frankfurt, by Carls- ruhe and Heidelberg, 528 Striegau, 422 Stubbenkammer, 403 Stuhlingen, 556 Suhl, 476 Stultz, Baron, hospital founded by, 536. His birthplace, 538 Swinemiinde, baths, 400 to Riigen, 401 Tables - d'hote in Germany, 199 Tafelfichte, 416 Tantow, 399 Taunus mountains, 503 Telg^e, 374 Tergouw, 78 Termonde, 135 Terneusen, 117 Tervueren, 183 Tete de Flandre, 137 Texel, 67 Thalers, kron, xxxix. Tharand, 467 Thorout, 136 Thurnberg, 276 Tilburg, 87 Tilly's birthplace, 169. Atro- cities at Magdeburg, 365 Tilsit, 410 Tirlemont, 185 Titles, German, 213 Tollliuis, 85 Tougres, 186 Tonnerre, Mont, 510 Tours, sketches of, xxxii- xxxvii Tournay, 107 Traben', 307 Trarbach, 306 Trass, 265 Trantenau, 422 Travemiinde, 327 Travelling, maxims and hints for, ix-xv requisites for, xxvi Treis, 3U8 Trekschuiten — in Holland, 4 WALLOON. Treves, 299. History of, 299. Antiquities, 300. Cathedral, 300. Church of our Lady, 301. Heathen's tower, 301. Roman baths or White Gate, 301. Amphitheatre, 302. Black Gate, 302. Bridge. 303. Library, Codex Aureus, 304. Igel, 304 * to Coblenz, 298 - down the Moselle, 305 * to Aix-la-Chapelle, 311 *to Bingen, 316 Trier, 299 Tri fels Castle, prison of Richard Coeur-de Lion, 522 Trinkgeld, 203 Trond, St., 186 Triberg, 551 Turnhout, 152 Tyrolese Protestant exiles in Silesia, 420 Uevdingen, 233 Unkelstein, 263 Unna, 359 Utuecht, 69. Stadhuis, 70. Cathedral, 70. Maliebaan, 70 to Nijmegen, 71 * to Amsterdam, 69 * to the Hague, 79 * to Rotterdam by Gouda, 78 to Arnhem, 71 Vacha, 429 Valenciennes, 106 Valets-de-place, 200 Vandyk, 113, 182 Vautsberg or Neu Rheinstein, 2dl Veckerhagen, 396 Vehm Gericht, 359 Verden, 386 Verviers, 181 Vesdre, valley of the, 177, 182 Vianden, 313 Vianen, 84 Victoria, Roman remains of, 267 Vigilantes, 94 Villingen, 551 Vilvorde, 155 Virneberg Castle, 296 Vistula, mouth of the, 406, 408 Vlaardingen, 25 Vlissingen, 116 Voigtland, 472 Voorburg, 37, 79 Vorspann, 203 Vreeswijk, 84 Waal branch of the Rhine, 81 Wageningen, 84 Wahlstat't, 413 Walloon language, 95 INDEX. 567 WALCHEREN. Walcheren, 115 Waldenburg, 422 Walporzheim, 294 Wandsbeck, 323 Warbeck, Perkin, 109 Warmbrunn — Baths, 418. River Zacken, 418. Kynast, 419. Schneekoppe, 419 Wartburg, Luther's prison, 429 Wassenach, 297 Wasserglass painting, 343 Watering-places, German, 218 Watergueusen, 24 Waterloo, 162-168. Plan of, 164 Wedigenstein, 398 Weichsel, or Vistula, 406 Weilburg, 501 Weimar, 432. Palace, Library, 433. Theatre, Churchyard, 433. Gothe's house and grave, 433 Weinheim, 528 Weiss on the Moselle, 3 1 1 Weissenfels, 434 Weissenthurm, 267 Werra river, 473, 474 Werther, scene of his " Sor- rows," 501 Wesel, 233 Weser river, 396-398 Wespenstein, 477 Westmael, 151 Westphalia, 359 West- Wesel, 87 Wetzlar, 501. "Sorrows of Werther," 501 WORLITZ. Wiesbaden, 491. Inns and baths, 491. Kursaal, 491. Kochbrunnen, 492. Tem- perature of the springs, 492. Roman remains, 493. Pfahl- graben — a wall extending from the Rhine to the Danube, 493. Museum, Theatre, 494. Platte, 495. Biberich, 495 * to Coblenz, 491 to Frankfurt, by railway, 495 to Eppstein, Falkenstein, and the Taunus, 503 Wiesloch, 534 Wijk, by Duurstede, 84 Wilhelmsbahn, 426 fVilhelmshohe, palace and gar- den, 381 Willemsoord, 73 Willgartswiesen, 523 Windmills in Holland, 49 Wines and vineyards of the Rhine, 281 Winkel, 288 Winterberg, 465 Wismar, 328 De Witt's death, 31 Wittenberg, 354 Wittenberge to Magdeburg, 398 Witzenhausen, 369 Woerden, 80 Woldenberg, 410 Wolfenbiittel, 364 Worlitz, 355 ZWOLLE. Worms, 513. Present state and former greatness ; seat of imperial Diets, 513. Ca- thedral, 513 to Kreuznach, by Alzei, 514 Wunstorf, 386 Wupper, valley of the, 367 Xanten, 236 Yburg, 372 Ypres, 112 IJssel river, 85 Zaandam, 63 Zahringen, 539 Zand, het, 66 Zapfendorf, 476 Zealand, 115 Zeist, 71 Zella, 476 Zeltingen, 306 Zittau, 423 Zollverein, 201 Zorndorf, 404 Ziilpich, 243, 312 Zutphen, 85 Zwanziger, coin, 48 1 Zweibriicken (Deux Ponts), 523 Zwickau, 472 Zwingenberg, 525 Zwolle, 73 THE END. London: printed r.y w. clowes and sons, stamford-street. wTiimim J. &C Walker Sculp? ZN3EXMAF SHIA^BISOO^: fom TMArj£.'LLffl£S otr ran CO^Tjcvm i y y CT B <) R T II S E .. B .A n mglrfte ml HeJlingtnKx ■■ \'""?"\^-j S f^ 'J Z f t> n-iuril. „ / STtTTiy U.lrf •yfoiJort'L ' uu *-M MQmui /~lS Birioiildj jniwSAme '"a"'"' " '^'p^sT^C ""'^.^A/l , \ x vr t 77^^' : - W l tB 5£a «>„£::; jh$ - P "' Fr '"% A Ann-air ' If, „!..[:,!. ..!('.' S.lil.:i. rw^C T] ^5u£ •''i/.,- repa «.S/>n>-y» LrvK V " ,.i";-. y jy.i»i b HI* Mr* ■Sw) . *».*#JVrv*,-i ,,. ■ i./fc 1 , r i».-M „ *JSSs '■/■ L* .-3 i> tori Aug»l ,Vr>ri/.in/i>* yj^ j7 ftumV \ ^S /j^a^it' ^^T^^^SiaJ ■ A ^K "'I ^•^.Vl^fcj^ \,.«to.. 7 xnirs' ^^ iyjlirliui-g h;f,,l„ft,j S'.\t.Liirtri- ? ^nthi** Vartign) '°^» , S' ftminni ■'•"•r'""'^~-ii';;z>u 3^°° kT j**h lUt&{*lbj <..!,„ M:»'n -&■"••">■ ■-'>■>■> ''■„.<.„ tess : MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 1851. Printed/or those desirous of communicating Information to Travellers, and inserted in THE HANDBOOKS EOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT ISSUED DURING THE SEASON. *** Advertisements are received till the end of May; the Editor is not responsible for any statement? made in them. For Eight Lines . . Every Line additional .SCALE OF CHARGES £ s. d. .086 .009 Half a Column . . . A Column, or Half-page £ s. d. 12 2 2 An entire Page £4 INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. BELGIUM. Brussels.— Sufjfell's Carriages & Horses 10 Malines. — Breugehnans' Hotel ... 13 GERMANY. Frankfort. — Tacchi's Glass Warehouse 7 Bing's Manufactory . . 8 Munich. — Steigerwald's Glass Rooms . 6 De Hermann's Magazine . . 14 Hotel Maulich 21 Cologne. — Farina's Eau de Cologne . . 9 Heidelberg. — Graimberg's Antiquities 10 Bonn. — Schmitz's Golden Star Hotel . 12 Dresden.— Wolsohn's Antiquities . . 13 SWITZERLAND. Interlaken,— Ructi's Hotel Beausite . 10 ITALY. Leghorn.— Dattari's Black Eagle Hotel . 13 Dattari's Hotel Victoria . . 13 Micali & Son's Show Rooms 18 MriAN. — Bruschetti's Royal Hotel . . 11 ITALY— continued. Florence. — Bianchini's Florentine Mosaic 14 Genoa. — Schmitz's Grand Hotel ... 15 Loleo's Silver Fillagree Work . 18 Piedmont. — Dr. Brander's Hydropathic Establishment 18 Rome.— Fabri's Print Shop 18 MALTA. Steam Communication with India . .17 ENGLAND. List of Customs' Duties 2 Custom House Agents — McCracken . . 4 Union Bank of London 16 London and Westminster Bank . . .15 Locock's Pulmonic and Female Wafers . 19 Mechi's Dressing Cases 15 Mr. Murray's List of Works ..... 21 Black's Guide Books 20 Lee's Medical Guide Books ..... 15 Lee's Guide-Book Depot . . . ... 24 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. LIST OF DUTIES PAYABLE IN LONDON ON WORKS OF ART, CURIOSITIES, ETC., FROM THE CONTINENT, ACCORDING^ TO THE LAST NEW TARIFF. There is an Addition of 5 per cent, on those Duties not altered oy the last New Tariff. The folio-wring are all Cattle, and all Living Animals. Agates and Cornelians, not being set nor cut. Bronze Works of Art. Bullion, Coins and Medals of all kinds, and battered Plate. Casts of Busts, Statues, or Figures. Cotton Manufactures, not being arti- cles wbolly or in part made up. Diamonds and other Precious Stones, not set. Flower Roots. Furs and Skins, not made up. Linen Manufactures, not being articles wholly or in part made up. Lay Figures belonging to British Artists, intended for their own use. Magna Grjecia "Ware, and Antique Earthen Vases, &c. FREE OP DTJTY:- Manuscripts. Maps and Charts, or parts thereof, plain or coloured. Mineral "Water. Models of Cork and "Wood. Olive Oil. Plants and Trees, alive. Pictures, Sketches, Drawings, or Sculpture, on a declaration by the Proprietor (being a British Subject) that they are of his or her perform- ance, and not intended for sale. Seeds, Garden, Forest, &c. Specimens of Natural History, Mine- rals, Fossils, and Ores. Sulphur Impressions or Casts. Telescopes. Vases, Ancient, not of Stone or Wood. On the following the Duty is 10 per cent, ad valorem :— Agates, or Cornelians, cut, manufac- tured, or set. Beads, Coral, Mock Pearl, and others. Brass and Bronze Manufactures, not being works of Art, such as Ink- stands, Candelabra, and Articles of Furniture. Brocade of Gold and Silver. Carriages of all sorts. Cashmere Shawls, and other Arti- cles and Manufactures of Goats' Wool. Catlings (Violin, Harp Strings, &c.) whether Plain or Silver Strings. China, or Porcelain Ware, painted or plain, gilt or ornamented, and Earthenware. Clocks and Watches (must have Maker's name, both on face and on works;. Colours for Painters, if manufactured, and Crayons. Copper Plates engraved, and Cop- per Manufactures. Cotton Articles, wholly or in part made up. Egyptian Antiquities, Nubian Spears, &c. Frames for Pictures, &c,. Furniture. Furs and Skins, all Articles made up. Japanned and Lacquered Ware. Jewellery. Lace, viz. — Thread Lace, also Lace made by the hand commonly called Cushion or Pillow Lace, whether of Linen, Cotton, or Silken Thread. Linen Articles, wholly or in part made up. Mosaic Work, small Ornaments for Jewellery. Musical Instruments. Perfumery. Scagliola Tables. Spa Ware. Steel and Iron Manufactures. Tiles. Toys. Turnery. Woollen Articles, wholly or in part made up. Plate of Gold or Silver, gilt or ungilt, in addition to 10 per cent., is liable to Is. 6c?. per oz. Stamp Duty. «*&. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. " 3 LIST OF DUTIES— continued. £ s. d. Alabaster, Sculpture of the cwt. 3 Anchovies the lb. 2 A equebusade Water (for the Bottles, see Wine) the gal. 1 10 4 Books, of Editions printed prior to 1801 the cwt. 10 „ in or since 1801, in Foreign Living Languages ditto 2 10 „ in the Dead Languages, or in the English Language, printed out of England in or since 1801 - ditto 5 (N.B.— Pirated Editions of English Works, of which the Copyright exists in England, totally prohibited since 1st April, 1843.) Books, English, printed in England (unless declared that no Excise Drawback was received on Exportation) the lb. 3 Boots, Ladies' untrimmed the doz. pair 6 „ Men's ditto ditto 14 Shoes, ditto ditto ditto 7 „ Ladies' ditto ditto 4 6 Cameos for every £100 value 5 Cigars and Tobacco, manufactured (3 lbs. only allowed for passenger's baggage) the lb. 9 Tobacco, unmanufactured ditto 3 (N.B. — Unmanufactured Tobacco cannot be imported in less Quantity than 300 lbs., or Cigars 100 lbs in a package; but small quantities are admitted for Private Use on Declaration and payment of a Pine of Is. 6d. per lb. in addition to the Duty.) Coffee, Mocha, and other Foreign Coffee the lb. 4 „ from British Possessions ditto 3 Coins, of Copper the cwt. 10 Confectionery, Sweetmeats, and Succades the lb. 6 Cordials and Liqueurs (for Bottles, see Wine) the gal. 1 10 4 Eau de Cologne, in long Flasks the flask 10 (N.B.— If other than the ordinary long Flasks, 30s. 4d. the Gallon and the Bottle Duty.) Embroidery and Needlework for every £100 value 15 Flowers, Artificial ditto 25 Glass, Flint or Cut, Coloured and Fancy Ornamental Glass, of what- ever kind the lb. 2 Glass, White Flint Bottles, not cut nor ornamented ditto „ Wine Glasses, Tumblers, and all other White Flint-Glass Goods, not cut nor ornamented the lb. 1 Gloves, Leather (not less than 100 doz. pairs can be imported in one package) the doz. pair 3 6 Maccaroni and Vermicelli " the lb. 1 Marble, manufactured the cwt. 3 Sculptured Stone the ton 10 Naples Soap the cwt. 10 Olives .' the gal. 2 Paintings on Glass, or Figured Glass the superficial foot 9 Paper-hangings, Flock Paper, and Paper printed, painted, or stained the square yard 2 Pictures each 1 „ and further the square foot 10 „ being 200 square feet and upwards each 10 Prints and Drawings, plain or coloured, single .., ditto 1 „ bound or sewn the doz. 3 Sausages the lb. 1 Silk, Millinery, Turbans or Caps each 3 6 „ „ Hats or Bonnets ditto 7 „ „ Dresses ditto 1 10 „ Hangings, and other Manufactures of Silk for every £100 value 15 „ Velvets, plain or figured the lb. 9 0- „ „ Articles thereof ditto 10 Stone from Malta the ton 10 Tea the lb. 2 1 Wine in Casks, all except Cape Wine the gal. 5 6 „ in Bottles, „ ditto 5 6 „ and further on the Bottles the cwt. 9 Spirits in Casks (no Cask can be imported of less contents than Twenty Gallons) the gal. 15 O Spirits in Bottles (the additional Duty on the Bottles, as on Wine Bottles.) MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN, 7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON, AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, And Agents generally for the Reception and Shipment of Works of Art 3 Baggage, &c 9 FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, British. Artists resident abi'oad, having occasion to send home their Woi'ks for Exhibition, or to he passed by the Academy, will find it advantageous to address them to the care of Messrs. J. and R. M c Cracken, whose appointment enables them to offer every facility. Parties favouring J. & R. M C C. with Con- signments, are requested to be particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them direct by post, and also to forward their Keys with the Packages, as all Goods must be examined immediately on arrival. J. & R. M c C.keep Lachry nse Christ? and Marsala "Wines of first quality, also Port and Sherry ; and are general Importers of French and other Foreign Wines. Return their sincere acknowledgments to the Nobility and Gentry for the liberal patronage hitherto conferred on them. They hope, by the moderation of their charges, and their unremitting care in passing through the •Custom-House Property confided to them, to merit a continuance of the favours they have heretofore enjoyed. Their establishment comprises dry and spacious Warehouses, where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owner's absence, at most moderate rates of rent. J. & R. M C C. undertake to execute Com- missions, for the purchase of Pictures, Sta- tuary in Marble and Alabaster, Bronzes, &c, being in direct correspondence with Artists, Agents, and Bankers throughout the Con- tinent. THEIR PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS ARE AT CALAIS | BOULOGNE S. M.... PARIS Messrs. Chartier, Mory, & Vogue. Messrs. Isaac Vital & fils. Messrs. Chaetier, Mory, & Vogue. Mr. H. Sire. Mr. M. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs, No. 24. Mons. Havet, Roulagier, 10, Rue Grange Bateliere. „ Petit Fils aine, id., 23, Rue de la Concorde. Mr. A. Chaumont, Mr. Thomas Taylor, Messrs. P. Devot & Co. Messrs. Horace Bouchet & Co. Messrs. Brochier & Guillabert. HAVRE MARSEILLES BAGNERES DE BI- GORRE, (Ilautes f-Mr. Aime'Geruzet, Marble Works Pyrenees) BORDEAUX GIBRALTAR NICE GENOA MILAN CARRARA LEGHORN PISA FLORENCE FLORENCE . VOLTERRA. BOLOGNA .. ANCONA .... Mr. Aime'Geruzet, 44, Allees de Tommy. Messrs. Archbold, Johnston & Powers. Messrs. Turner & Co. Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. Messrs. Gibbs & Co. ; Mr. A. G. Barchi. Mr. Gomersal, British Vice-Consul. Messrs. Buffet & Beruto, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176. Mr. Vincenzo Livy, Sculptor. Messrs. W. Macbean & Co. Messrs. G. H. Gowee & Co. Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons. Messrs. Henderson Brothers. Messrs. Maquay, Pakenham, & Smyth. Messrs. Giac . Micali & Fig . Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Mr. M. Ristori. Mr. Joseph Guano. Mr. Henry Dunn. Messrs. Della Valle Brothers, Artists in Scagliola. Messrs. G io . Galliani & Co. Mr. Ferd. Peverada. Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Messrs. EMM le . Fenzi & Co. Messrs. Plowden & French. Messrs. Maquay & Pakenham. Mr. Gaet . Bianchini, Mosaic Worker, opposite the C&ppella de' Medici. Mr. Antonio di Luigi Piacenti. Mr. J. Tough. Messrs. F m . Pacetti, Picture-frame Makers, Via del Palagio. Messrs. Nesti Ciardi & Co. Mr. F. Leopoldo Pisani, Sculptor, No 1, sul Prato. Sig. Ott°. Callaj, and Sig. Gius e . Cherici. Mr. Flavio Perotti, British Vice-Consul. Messrs. Moore Meeellet & Co. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. MESSRS. J. X R. MCCRACKEN, AGENTS— continued. ROME. MALTA , Messrs. Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Torlonia & Co. Messrs. Macbean & Co. Mr. Carlo Trebbi. Messrs. Plowden, Cholmeley, & Co,J Messrs. Pakenham, Hooker, & Co. Mr. Luigi Branchini, at the English College. CIVITA VECCHIA. "Mr. J. T. Lowe, Junr., British Vice-Consul. Mr. T. Arata. NAPLES f Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W.J. Turner & Co. Messrs. \ Cumming, Wood, & Co. PALERMO Messrs. Brown, Franck, & Co. MESSINA Messrs. Cailler & Co. ' Mr. Emanuel Zammit. Mr. J. Aspinall. Mr. Ferdinand Dimecii, No. 69, Strada Teatro, Valletta, Sculptor in Malta Stone. Messrs. James Soler & Co., Sculptors in Malta Stone. Mr. Paolo Decandia, ditto. Mr. P. P. Decesare, ditto. [Workers. Messrs. Jos h . Darmanin & Sons, 45, Strada Levante, Mosaic CORFU Mr. J. W. Taylor. ALEXANDRIA Messrs. Briggs & Co. CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C. Hanson & Co., and Mr. Black. SMYRNA Messrs. Hanson & Co. BEYROUT Mr. Henry Heald. ATHENS Messrs. O. Metivier & Co. VENICE -I Messrs. Freres Schielin. ""I Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal & Co. Mr. John Harris. TRIESTE Messrs. George Moore & Co. OSTEND Mr. F. A. Belleroche. Messrs. Bach & Co. Mr. St. Amoub. f Messrs. Gebruder Rocca, Printsellers, Unter den Linden. BERLIN -i Messrs. Phaland & Dietrich, Carriers. ( Mr. Lion M. Cohn, Comm™ Expediteur. GHENT Mr. J. De Buyser, Dealer in Antiquities, Marche au Beurr<5, 21. BRUSSELS ATsTTWTT'TCP S Messrs. F. Mack & Co., Kipdorp, 1745. A " R 1 Mr.P.VANZEEBROECK,PictureDealer,&c.,RuedesR6collets,2076 \ Messrs. Preston & Co. ROTTERDAM -< Messrs. S. A. Levino & Co. Messrs. L. Mayer & Co. (_ Messrs. C. Hemmann & Co. Messrs. Boutmy & Co. rnT n ,,vrr, J Mr. J. M. Farina, vis-a-vis la Place Juliers. ^ul.uuin*. I Messrs. G™. Tilmes & Co. Mr. G. L. Kayser, Expediteur. MAYENCE Mr. Joseph Thuquet. Mr. W. Knussman, Cabinet Maker. (Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successors, Glass Manufacturers, Zeil D, 17 FRANKFORT O. MA Madame Veuve J. H. Stiebel, Zeil D, 30. (Messrs. Bing Brothers, Zeil D, 31. Mr. F. BOhler, Zeil. MANNHEIM Mr. Dinkelspeil. Messrs. Eyssen & Claus. !Mr. J. M. de Hermann, Printseller. Messrs. May & Widmayer, Printsellers. Mr. F. Steigerwald, Glass Manufacturer. Messrs. L. Negrioli & Co. irTcaT-Mr'-p-vr S Mr. E. Steigerwald, Glass Manufacturer. Jilhbi^UL-JN I Messrs. J. Bergmann & Co. RATISBON Mr. Auguste Koch. NUREMBERG Mr. Paolo Galimberti, at the Red Horse. BASLE Messrs, Jean Preiswerk & Fils. BERNE Mr. Auguste Buesche. Mr. Albert Trumpy. GENEVA Messrs. Ritzchel, Pere & Fils, Grand Quai. INTERLACKEN Mr. J. Wyder. GRINDELWALD ... Mr. S. Rothacher, Fils. HAMBURG Messrs. Schaar & Clauss ; Mr. C. B. Arnold. PRAGUE -I ^ r " ^' H° FMANN ; Glass Manufacturer, Kleinen Ring, No. 456. 1 Mr. A. V. Lebada, Gun Maker, &c. r a t?t <«"R a n J Mr. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. tAKLBDAD j Mr Carl KnqlL; &u Li(m Blanc> VIENNA Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 6S7- SALSBURG Mr. Alois Duregger. DttFSDFN -f Messrs. ^. F- Thode Sbhne. -^ ]\{ a( j ame Helena Wolfsohn, Schossergasse, No. 5. NEW YORK Messrs. Wilbur & Scott. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. MUNICH. FRANCIS STEIGERWALD, MANUFACTURER OF ALL KINDS OF fmi %xlitlm k knim k Wtyit k €ulnitt <£qatol @lm, CUT, OR ORNAMENTED WITH GILDING, PAINTING, OR ENGRAVING, Begs respectfully to inform the Public that his large Stock at MUNICH, the acknowledged seat of the Fine Arts in Germany, is, as it has been for many years, carefully supplied with the NEWEST and CHOICEST PRODUCE of his FACTORY. Francis Steigerwald has also an Establishment at Kissingen during the Season. Requesting his Customers and Correspondents in ENGLAND to continue to this Establishment the favour and confidence they have been pleased to bestow on his former one at FRANK- FORT ON THE MAINE, he begs to state that Purchases or Orders will be transmitted on the shortest notice, and without any further trouble, through the medium of his Agents, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, No. 7, Old Jewry, London. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 7 FRANKFOBT 0. M. P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSORS (LATE FRANCIS STEIGERWALD,) ZEIL D, No. 17, P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSORS beg to acquaint the Public, that they have become the Purchasers of Mr. F. Steigerwald's Establish- ment in this Town, for the Sale of Bohemian Fancy Cut Glass and Crystals. They have always an extensive and choice Assortment of the Newest and most Elegant Patterns of ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, AND PAINTED GLASS Both White mid Coloured, In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Articles for the Table and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manu- facture. They solicit, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of the favours of the Public, which the late well-known House enjoyed in an eminent degree during a considerable number of years. P. A. Tacchi's Successors have Branch Establishments during the Season at WIESBADEN AND EMS, Where will always be found Selections of the newest Articles from their principal Establishment. Their Agents in England, to whom they undertake to forward Pur- chases made of them, are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry, London. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. FRANKFORT 0. M. BING BEOTHEES, ZEIL, No. 31, (opposite the hotel de russie,) MANUFACTORY OF: ARTICLES IN STAG'S] HORN, DEPOT OF DRESDEN CHINA. COPY OF THE STATUE OF ARIADNE. *** AH kinds of Parisian Fancy Articles. Messrs. BING Brothers beg respectfully to invite the Public to visit their Establishment, where they have always on show, and for sale, a most extensive Assortment of Articles in Stag's Horn, of their own manufacture ; consisting of Brooches, Ear-rings, Bracelets, Pen and Pencil-holders, Seals, Ink-stands, Watch- stands, Snuff-boxes, Cigar-boxes, Whips, Walking-sticks, Knives, Card-cases, and every description of article for the Writing and Work Table, besides Vases and other ornamental objects too various to be here enumerated. Messrs. Bing have also the finest Copies, both in Biscuit-China and Bronze, of the Statue of Ariadne, the Chef-d'oeuvre of the Sculptor Danneckek, of which the original is in Bethman's Museum at Frankfort O. M. Messrs. Bing have likewise the Sole Dep6t in Frankfort of the Porcelain of the Royal Manufactory of Dresden ; and at their Establishment may be seen the most splendid assortment of Figures after the Ancient Models, ornamented with Lace-work of the most extraordinary fineness ; likewise Dinner, Dessert, and Tea Services ; Plates, Vases, Candelabras, Baskets, &c. &c, in the Antique Style, ornamented with flowers in relief, and the finest paintings. Besides the above-named objects, tbey have a superb assortment of Clocks, Bronzes, Porcelain, and other Fancy Objects, the productions of Germany, France, and England. Depot of the veritable Eau de Cologne of Jean Maria Farina } of Cologne. $55* Their Agents in London are J. and R. M'Crackkn, 7, Old Jewry. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. COLOGNE 0. RHINE. JOHN MARIA FARINA, (opposite the julich's place,) PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. M. F. W. N., KING OF PRUSSIA; H. M. NICOLAS I., EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; H. M. ERNEST AUGUSTUS, KING OF HANOVER, ETC., ETC. OF THE ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE. HPHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the -*- most part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request the attention of all English travellers to the following statement : — Since the first establishment of my house in 1709, there has never been any partner in the business who did not bear the name of Faeina, nor has the manufacture of a second and cheaper quality of Eau de Cologne ever been attempted, Since 1828 however, several inhabitants of Cologne have entered into engagements with Italians of the name of Farina, and, by employing that name, have succeeded to a very great extent in foisting an inferior and spurious article upon the Public. But they have in this rivalry in trade not been satisfied with the mere usurpation of my name, the concluding phrase, "opposite the JulicKs Place" which had so long existed my especial property, was not allowed to remain in its integrity. To deceive and lead astray again those of the public who are not fully conversant with the locality and circumstances, the competition seized hold of the word " opposite" and more than one settled in my immediate neighbourhood, that they might avail themselves to the full extent of the phrase " opposite the JulicKs Place." When tried before the courts, the use only of the word " opposite " was forbidden, which, however, has been supplied by the word " at " or "near," with the addition of the number of their houses. It is true, another less flagrant,;but not less deceitful invention was, that several of my imitators established the sites of their manufactories in other public places of the town, to enable them to make use of the phrase " opposite Place, or Market," on their address cards or labels, speculating with respect to the proper name " Julich," on the carelessness or forgetfulness of the consumer. I therefore beg to inform all strangers visiting Cologne that my establishment, which has existed since 1709, is exactly opposite the Julich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Mai-spforten, No. 23, and that it may be the more easily recognised, I have put up the arms of England, Eussia, &c, &c, in the front of my house. By calling the attention of the public to this notice, I hope to check that system of imposition which has been so long practised towards foreigners by coachmen, valets de place, and others, who receive bribes from the vendors of the many spurious compounds sold under my name. J. M. FARINA, Opposite the Julich's Place. *** My Custom-house Agents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry ; and my Agent for Great Britain is Mr. Wm. Langenbeck, 15, Maddox Street, Regent Street, and 9 Lime Street, City. 10 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. BRUSSELS. CARRIAGES AND HORSES. T. SUFFELL Respectfully informs British and American Travellers they can always obtain a choice of EXCELLENT VEHICLES, OR GOOD SADDLE HORSES, TO CONVEY PARTIES TO AND FROM WATERLOO, At very reasonable prices. HEIDELBERG. For Carriages by the day, half day, or hour, apply to T. SUFFELL, 12, Rue St. Laurent, Montagne de la Cour, on the right hand side descending from the Place Royale. Carriages of every description for town use. Paid Horse Carriages for Waterloo, 20 fr.; Gig or Cab, 15 fr.; and a Saddle Horse, 12 fr. UTTERLAKEIT. A Gentleman who found quiet and reason- able accommodation at the UNTERSEEN, INTERLAKEN, Takes this method of making the circum- stance known for the benefit of the Pro- prietor, M. RUCTI. DOMO D'OSSOLA. GRAND HOTEL D'ESPAGNE, DE JAQUES NICOLAZZI. ENGLISH TRAVELLERS will find in this Hotel cleanliness, prompt service, a good kitchen, the best wines, and moderate charges. Large and small Apartments. HOESES AND CAERIAGES. ANNONCE. LA GALERIE DES ANTIQUITES DTJ Chateau de Heidelberg. FORMfiE PAR LE COMTE DE GRAIMBERG-, Est a voir dans le batiment de la Chapelle, dit communement le Palais de Frederic IV. Le fondateur y a reuni, avec des frais de tous genres, et par des recherches proches et a distance, pendant quarante ans, tout ce qu'il a pu decouvrir de relatif au CHATEAU DE HEIDELBERG, Ainsi qu' a ses anciens Princes des Families Palatines et de Baviere, et a ses proprietaires actuels de la maison de Bade, en portraits, en tableaux, dessins, gravures, vieilles armes, sculptures, me"dailles, porcelaines, verrieres, diplomes, &c. Le tout composant un ensemble de onze a douze mille numeros, et sans doute la seule galerie de cette nature qui existe. Outre ce service rendu au pays, autant pour l'agrement que pour l'utilite de tous, la ville de Heidelberg doit encore a Mons. de Graimberg, en grande partie, la renom- mee de ses ruines, par ses PLANCHES DU CHATEAU DE HEIDELBERG. GRAVEES PAR Cn. HALDENWANG, Le Premier Artiste en Paysage de Fepoque. Et qu'on peut se procurer chez l'auteur dans la galerie des antiquites du Chator.u. sans compter que Mons. de Graimberg n'a pas moins contribue a la conservation de ses ruines, en s'en faisant le protecteur et le gardien, dans un terns ou leur merite, si universel aujourd'hui, doit encore peu connu. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 1 11 MILANO GRAND ROYAL HOTEL. (ALBERGO REALE.) BY GIOACHINO BRTJSCHETTI. HPHIS splendid and most commodious Hotel, constructed only with two stories high, has been taken by the present sole Proprietor, Gioachino Bruschetti, who for the past twenty years has travelled with some of the most distinguished families, and lived at several periods in England ; by these advantages, he fully hopes he has learned how to conduct a great Establishment like the Grand Royal Hotel, and to give the desired satisfaction, with cleanliness, promptitude, and exactness of service. Good kitchen, best wines, and at prices exceedingly moderate. The whole of the Hotel has been by him newly furnished with becoming elegance ; well studied arrangements combined with every comfort that can possibly be required. An excellent Table d'Hote daily, in the lagnifico Salone on the first floor, capable of containing above One Hundred Persons. IN THE SAME ESTABLISHMENT WILL BE FOUND A WELL SELECTED GALLERY OF OLD PAINTINGS BY THE BEST AND MOST NOTED MASTERS. 12 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. BONN ON THE RHINE. MR. SCHMITZ, PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart- ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are carpeted, and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine-cellar, is well provided. The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following Members of the English Royal Family : — ' H. M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and 1846. June 18. -| Lady Barrington, Sir David Davis, M.D., Kev. J. E. Wood, M.A., Captain Taylor, &c. &c, honoured the above establishment ■with a Three Days' Visit. 1818. May 1825. March and Sept. 1834. July 1836. Aug. 1837. July 1839. Nov. — Nov. 1840 1841 1841 1844 1845. , June 1847. July •I •( H.K.H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. H.E.H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence and Suite. H.M. Queen Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Errol, Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Countess Howe, &c. H.E.H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. H.E.H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. E. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. H.E.H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotha, accompanied by Prince Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Suite. H.E.H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta of Cambridge, and their Suite. H.E.H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S.H. the Prince of Leiningen. H. E. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H.E.H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. H. E. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H.E.H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. H. E. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the Prince of Leiningen. H. E. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and Suite. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add, that at no Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 13 LEGHORN. — 4 — BLACK EAGLE ROYAL HOTEL. THE PROPRIETOR, LOUIS DATTARI, Has the honour to inform all the Travellers that his Hotel, newly furnished, is situated in the most central part of the town, com- mands the view of the sea, and can be approached by the sea. There is a ' .able d'HSte, and Coach House. LEGHORN. — ♦ — HOTEL VICTORIA. KEPT BY Louis Dattari and Thou Memiui. THIS HOTEL, newly fitted up, is the most elegant one for its situation, besides having a southern aspect ; it is in the prin- cipal street of the town, and near to the port. There is a Table d'H6te, Baths, and Coach House. ALINES, BELGIUM. HOTEL DE LA GRUE 5 GRAND PLACE, KEPT BY D. BR EUGELM ANS. HPHIS is decidedly tli,e largest and best Hotel at Malmes. Good Beds, excellent Wines, Baths, with every comfort of a private house. Families may be accommodated with private apartments for any length of time, and as cheap as at home. DRESDEN. MAGAZINE OE ANTIQUITIES AND FINE ARTS. HELENA WOLSOHN, nee MEYER, (SUCCESSOR OF L. MEYER AND SONS), 5, SCHLOSSERGASSE, Begs respectfully to solicit the inspection of her establishment, where she has always on show and for sale a most extensive assortment of Old Saxon China, Old Sevres and Japan, Antique Furniture, Bronzes, Old Lace, such as Points de Bruxelles and D'Alenqon, Points de Venise, Guipure, &c, &c. Venetian, Ruby, and Painted Glass, Rock Crystal, Ivory Work, Enamels, Mosaic Work, Armour, Gobelins Tapestry, Fans, and many other remarkable and curious articles. HER AGENTS IN ENGLAND ARE MESSRS. J. & R. M'CRACKEN, 7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON. ' i 14 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER.' MUNICH. J. If. DE HERMANN, EOYAL PKOMENADE STEASSE, No. 12. MAGAZINE OF OBJECTS OF FINE ARTS, PICTURES, PRINTS, DRAWINGS, AND LITHOGRAPHS. J. M. DE HERMANN has always on Sale a Collection of Pictures by Modern Artists (German and others), of Miniatures and Drawings, Engravings and Litho- graphs. The latter comprises the Collections of the Pinacothek, of the Galleries of Schleissheim and the Duke of Leuchtenberg at Munich, as well as that of the Royal Gallery of Dresden : also the Collection of the Works of the Old School, better known as the " Collection of the Freres Boissere ;" the Frescoes in the Church of All-Saints, and generally of whatever relates to the Fine Arts. J. M. DE HERMANN undertakes to forward to England all Purchases made at his Establishment, through his Agents, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry. FLORENCE. O. BIANCHINI, MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS, OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC. No. 4844, Via de' Nelli, opposite the Royal Chapel of the Medici, Invites the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables and other Ornaments executed to any Design. G. Bianchini , s Agents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry, London. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 15 GENOA. — — ♦ — GRAND HOTEL DE LA VILLE. J. SCHMITZ. 4 This Hotel, the ancient Palace of St. Pancrazio, situated on the Port, and commanding a beautiful view of the sea, has been restored and enlarged by the present proprietor, who has done all in his power to render it essentially comfortable. The attendance is equal to that of the first hotels of the north. Charges moderate. Private rooms from fcs. 1. 50, and sumptuous apartments for large families. Table d'Hote at 5 o'clock. Baths. All the principal Newspapers. Excellent Stabling and lock-up Coach- houses. Mr. Schmitz, the Proprietor, who is also a manufacturer of filligree Silver, has a depot in the hotel. MR. EDWIN LEE ON CONTINENTAL LOCALITIES, CLIMATES, BATHS, ETC. » « One Volume, post 8vo, 8s. THE CONTINENT; ITS CLIMATES, BATHS, AND REMEDIAL RESOURCES. With Observations on the Influence of Climate and Travelling, Tables, &c. Also, One Volume, (pp. 400), 7s. 6d. THE BATHS OF GERMANY & RHENISH GERMANY ; With Practical Observations on Mineral Waters, and Notices of the adjacent Towns. With Plate and Map, 3s. 6d. NICE ET SON CLIMAT. AVEC DES NOTICES SUR LE LITTORAL DE LA MEDITERRANgE. London: Churchill, Princes-street ; Bailliere, Regent-street ; and Adams, Fleet-street. Paris : Galignani. Nice : Visconti. LONDON. WHERETO BUY A DRESSING-CASE. IN no article perhaps is caution more necessary than iu the purchase of a Dressing Case, for in none are the mere- tricious arts of the unprincipled manufac- turers more frequently displayed. MECHI, 4, LEADENHALL STREET, near Grace- church-street, has long enjoyed the reputa- tion of producing a Dressing Case in the most finished and faultless manner. Those who purchase one of him will he sure of having thoroughly-seasoned and well-pre- pared wood or leather, Avith the fittings of first-rate quality. The prices range from £1 to £100. Thus the man of fortune and the man of moderate means may alike be suited, while the traveller will find the Mechian Dressing Case especially adapted to his necessities.— 4, LEADENHALL STREET. London & Westminster Bank ISSUES CIRCULAR NOTES For £10 each, for the use of travellers and residents on the Continent. These notes are payable at every important place in Europe, and thus enable a traveller to vary his route without inconvenience. No expense is incurred, and when cashed no charge is made for commission. They may be obtained at the head office of the London and Westminster Bank, in Lothbury; or at its branches, viz.: 1, St. James' s-square; 214, High Holborn ; 3, Wellington-street, Borough ; 87, High-street, Whitechapel ; and 4, Stratford-place, Oxford-street. J. W. GILBART, General Manager. 16 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. UNION BANK OF LONDON >- IB {rectors. SIR PETER LAURIE, Alderman, Governor. WILLIAM MOUNTFORD NURSE, Esq., Deputy Governor. Rt. Hon. the Lord Mayor. John Barnes, Esq. James Farquhar, Esq. Leo Schuster, Esq. Peter Northall Laurie, Esq. Charles Lyall, Esq. John Chapman, Esq. Henry Hulbert, Esq. Archibald Boyd, Esq. Lieut.-Col. Matheson, M.P. John Scott, Esq. William Wilson Scrimgeour, General Manager. Walter Laurie, Secretary. CIRCULAR NOTES. The Directors give notice that they issue CIRCULAR NOTES of the value of £10 and upwards, free of expense, and LETTERS OF CREDIT payable by their Corre- spondents at the several places indicated below. To be obtained at the Head Office, 2, Princes Street, Mansion House; the Regent Street Branch, Argyle Place; and at the Charing Cross Branch, 4, Pall Mall East. Abbeville Cairo Aix-en-Provence Calais Aix-la-Chapelle Calcutta Alexandria Canada (Upper) Aleppo Canton Alicante Cape Town Almeira Carlsbad Amiens Carlsruhe Amsterdam Cephalonia Ancona Cette Antwerp Ceylon Athens Chalon (sur Augsbourg Saone) Avignon Chambery Avranches Chaux de fonds Baden-Baden Christiana Bagdad Christiansand Barcelona Clermont Fer- Basle rand Beirout Coblenz Benares Cologne Bergen Constance Berlin Constantinople Berne Copenhagen Besancon Cordova Bilbao Corfu Blois Corunna Bologna (en Damascus Italie) Dantzic Bombay Darmstadt Bonn Delhi Bordeaux Dieppe Botzen Dijon Boulogne (sur Dresden Mer) Drontheim Bremen Dunkirk Breslau Dusseldorf Bruges Elberfield Briinn Elsinore Brunswick Emms Brussels Florence Cadiz Francfort (sur Caen Maine) Geneva Mauritius (Port Rotterdam Genoa Louis) Rouen Ghent Mayence Salzburg Gibraltar Messina Santa Cruz, Gottenbourg Milan Teneriffe Gottingen Montpellicr Schwalback Graefenburg Montreal Seville Granville Moscow Shauffausen Gratz Munich Siena Halifax (Nova Munster Singapore Scotia) Nancy Smyrna Hamburg Nantes Spa Hanover Naples St. Galle Havre Neuchatel St. Malo Hague New Orleans St. Omer Heidelburg New York St. Petersburg Hermanstadt Nice Stockholm Homburg es Nismes Strasbourg monts Nurembourg Stuttgardt Hong Kong ■Ditto (Fiirth Tarbes Innspruck near) Teneriffe Interlaken Oleron Toronto Kissingen Oporto Toulon Konigsberg Orleans Toulouse Lausanne Ostend Tours Leghorn Palermo Treves Leipsic Paris Trieste Liege Parma Turin Lisbon Patras Utrecht Locle Pau Valenciennes L'Orient Perpignan Valencia Lubeck Pest Venice Lucerne Pisa Verona Lyon Port St. Mary Vevey Lucca (Bains de) Prague Vienna Madeira Presbourg Vigo Madras Quebec Warsaw Madrid Rastadt Weimar Malaga Ratisbonne Wiesbaden Malta Rennes Wurzbourg Mannheim Rio de Janeiro Yverdon Marienbad Rome Zante Marseilles Rostock Zurich MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 17 MALTA.-EGYPT.-INDIA.-IONIAN ISLES. JSg ^jjjjomtntent OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. H. B. Majesty Steam Packets, possessing every requisite accommodation for the comfort of passengers, keep up a regular Communication between England and India, vid Marseilles, Malta, and Alexandria, twice a Month. These fine Vessels leave Marseilles for Malta on the 9th and 26th, and Malta for Marseilles about the 12th and 24th, performing the passage in about 68 hours. On the 13th one of these Packets is despatched, to Alexandria with the India Mails and passengers, which place she leaves with the Homeward Mail and passengers about the 21st, occupying about 90 hours in the voyage. The Packet for Marseilles waits hex* arrival, also one of the Peninsular Company's Boats, to convey passengers to England vid Gibraltar, to the 26th. IONIAN ISLES. On the 1st and 13th of each month one of these Packets is despatched to Corfu, vid Cephalonia, Zante and Patras, from whence passengers can proceed to Athens. She remains at Corfu four days, and returns (calling at the above ports) to Malta, arriving on the 10th and 23rd, in time to secure passages to England, vid Gibraltar or Mai-seilles. Freights on Specie in accordance with Admiralty regulation ; 1 per Cent, on Silver, f on Jewellery. Freight on Packages and Parcels may be known on application at the Agents'. Passages, including Wines, a liberal Table, and every Expense. 1st Class. Female Servants. 2nd Class. 3rd Class, if Victualled. 3rd Class, not Victualled. £ s. d. £ s. d. £ s. d. £ s. d. £ s. d. Between Malta and Marseilles 8 2 5 8 4 10 2 14 2 6 „ „ Alexandria 12 10 8 6 8 7 2 3 16 2 17 1 „ „ Corfu . . 9 6 5 10 2 10 1 17 6 „ „ Patras . . 7 4 13 4 4 10 1 16 17 0' And the intermediate Ports in proportion. BOOKING AGENTS. MARSEILLES— L. Bouvet. ALEXANDRIA— Mr. Davidson. BOMBAY— Times Office. PARIS— A. & W. Galignani. ATHENS— C. Margaretta, Esq. MALTA— G. Muir, 247, Strada Reale. ZANTE— W. L. Reynolds, Esq. CEPHALONIA— Captain Lefochilo. SINGAPORE— Mr. Logan. PATRAS— T. Woodley. ENGLAND— Messrs. G. W. Wheatley & Co., 156, Leadenhall Street; and Mr. C. W. De Bernardy, Esq., 20, John Street, Adelphi, London. Offices will be shortly Established at other Ports. G. MUIR, Booking and Superintending Agent to Her Majesty's Packets in the Mediterranean. N.B.— Passengers leaving England by the P. and O. Company's Steamer from South- ampton on the 29th, are conveyed on to Alexandria by II. M.'s Packet leaving Malta on the 13th. Mr. Muir, the Agent, will be on board to tranship their luggage and give them any information. There is no expense attending it. 18 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. PIEDMONT. ITER CURE. DE. BEANDEES' HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT AKD MAISOIST DE PLAISANCE, AT THE I Chartreuse of s Val Pesio, near Coni, in Piemont,l Is now open to Invalids and Visitors. THIS magnificent Establishment, an eligible resort for parties in search, of health or pleasure, replete with every comfort and accommodation, is already well known. The place abounds in springs of the purest water, and the air is celebrated for its salubrity. The soil, being gravelly, is peculiarly dry and healthy, allowing exercise at all seasons. \ This Italian Grsefenberg lies eight hours south of Turin, on the road to Nice and Genoa, and in the extensive domain parties may be accommodated with small private houses. Dr. Branders has resolved to spare neither trouble nor expense to ensure to visitors every comfort on the most liberal terms. \* For further particulars apply {franco) to ike Administrator t Mons. Bellissent, at the Chartreuse. LEGHORN. —4 HIACINTH MICALI & SON, VIA FERDINAND A, No. 1230. Manufactory of Marble, Alabaster, and Scagliola Tables, and DepSt of Objects of Fine Arts. Their extensive Show-rooms are always open to Visitors. THEIR AGENTS IN ENGLAND ARE MESSRS. J. AND R. M'CRACKEN, 7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON. GENOA. G. LOLEO, (SUCCESSOR TO FELIX PERNETTI,) No. 81, IN THE ALBERGO DELLA CROCE DI MALTA, Keeps a Magazine which boasts the richest and most complete assortment of every description of objects of the renowned and special production of Genoese industry. He invites Foreigners and Travellers to visit his Establishment, where every article is sold at fixed prices. His Agents in England are Messrs. J. & E. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry, London. ROME. — ♦ — SIGNOR L. FABEI, VIA CAPO LE CASE, No. 3, PRINTSELLER, &c, Has always on sale a large assortment of Ancient and Modern Engravings, Early Proofs of the works of Morghen, Toschi, and other first-class Engravers ; Choice Impressions (with the address) of the Engravings published by the "Calcografia Camerale," and at the same prices ; Views of Rome, &c, &c. He has also on view a choice selection of Old Paintings, amongst which are an authentic Leonardo da Vinci, a Guido Keni, aud others by celebrated and ancient artists. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 19 Ivfozx Eogal Patronage, Asthma, Consumption, Coughs, Colds, and all Disorders of J the Breath and Lungs. For confirmed Asthma or Consumption, two Wafers should he taken three times a day which -will very soon relieve the cough and breathing, and rapidly effect a cure. In Coughs.— The effect of Dr. Locock's Wafers is truly surprising, as within ten minutes after taking a dose the most violent cough is subdued. They have a pleasant taste, and may be taken by infants as well as adults. To Singers and Public Speakers, these Wafers are invaluable, as by their action on the throat and lungs they remove all hoarseness in a few hours, and wonderfully increase the power and flexibility of the voice. Note. — Full directions are given with every box in the English, German, and French languages. Price Is. l^d., 2s. 9d., and lis. per box. The 2s. 9d. Boxes contain nearly three of the Is. li|d., and the lis. Boxes contain five of those at 2s. 9d. Also, thev have a most pleasant taste. Price Is. l^d., 2s. Qd., and lis. per box. • This is an aromatic and aperient medicine of great efficacy for regulating the secretions aud correcting the action of the Stomach and Liver, and is the only safe remedy for all Bilious AFFECTiONS,^Heartburn, Sick Head-ache, Giddiness, Pains in the Stomach, Flatulency, or Wind, and all those complaints which' arise from Indigestion or Biliousness. It is mild in its action, and suitable for all seasons and constitutions, while its agree- able taste renders it the best medicine for Children. Also, Price Is. l£-d., 2s. 9d., and lis. per box, have a pleasant taste. They fortify the constitution at all periods of life, and in all Nervous Affections act like a charm. They remove all Obstructions, Heaviness, Fatigue on Slight Exertion, Palpi- tation of the Heart, Lowness of Spirits, Weakness, and allay Pain. They create Appetite, and remove Indigestion, Heartburn, Wind, Head-ache, Giddi- ness, &e. In Hysterical Diseases, a proper perseverance in the use of this Medicine will be found to effect a Cure after all other means have failed. *#* Full directions are given with every Box, Note. — These Wafers do not contain any mineral, and may be taken either dissolve in water or whole. beware of imitations in the form of pills. It will be understood that the above are three different medicines, and are not one Medicine under various names. Prepared only by the proprietors, Da Silva & Co., 26, Bride-lane, Fleet-street, London; and sold by every respectable Medicine Vendor. Observe. — That every genuine box has printed on the Government Stamp the words, " Dr. Locock's Wafers," and that the signature of " Da Silva & Co," of 26, Bride- lane, London, is on the directions given with every box. As the Stamp of the British Government is extensively imitated in foreign countries, the Signature of the proprietors, (as above) is the only reliable mark of Genuineness. 20 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. (BLACK'S GUIDE BOOKS 1 I TRAVELLING MAPS. " They should find a corner in the portmanteau of every person about to undertake a journey of pleasure or business either in England and Wales, or Scotland." — John Bull. " The most valuable series of Picturesque Guide Books issued by 3Iessrs. Black of Edinburgh. We have looked carefully through the volumes : they are admirably ' got up;' the descriptions are accurate, and remarkably clear and comprehensive. Altogether the series of works is of im- mense value to tourists." — Aiit Journal. Price 10s. 66.., a New Edition, greatly enlarged of TOack's Picturesque Tourist, and Eoad and Eailway Guide- "*** Book through ENGLAND and WALES, containing 194 Routes, and 26 Maps and Charts, besides Views of the Scenery. The Index contains upwards of 5000 Names, with the Inns in all the Towns and Villages. The Volume is tersely written, closely printed, and portable. " A decided improvement upon the old road-book." — John Bull. " A carefully-executed work, prettily illustrated, with useful maps." — Athenaeum. " 48 new routes, 12 engraved charts, and upwards of 100 pages of letterpress have been added to what in its olden state was the cheapest, the best, and the handiest book of its kind." — Spectator. Price 8s. 6d., an Eighth Edition of Jllack's Picturesque Tourist of Scotland— Highlands and Low- lands—with 24 Maps, Plans, and Charts, and 50 Views of Scenery and Public Buildings. "A comprehensive, intelligent, and well-arranged guide-book. "We have been furnished with an incidental proof of the remarkable accuracy of the charts and descriptions, in the personal testimony of a pedestrian, who has traversed a considerable space book in hand." — Spectator. Price 10s. 6d., a Third Edition (800 pp.), enlarged, of Jluide to the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, including ** ORKNEY and ZETLAND, with Directions for visiting the Lowlands, Tables of Distances, Notices of Inns, and other Information. By GEORGE and PETER ANDERSON of Inverness. "An original and solid work, which tells all that common guide-books profess to tell, but more fully and with better arrangement." — Spectator. " Most copiously and praiseworthily minute." — Athenceum. Price 5s., a Fourth Edition, enlarged and improved, of "glack's Picturesque Guide to the English Lakes. With an Essay on the Geology of the District, by John Phillips, F. R. S. G. L. late Professor of Geology and Mineralogy in the University of Dublin ; a minutely accurate Map, by W. Hughes; Charts of the Lakes; Views of the Scenery ; and an ample Itinerary of all the Routes, with the Distances accurately laid down. "It is a Picturesque Guide in every sense — its descriptions are charmingly written— its in- telligence is ample and minute — and its illustrations are admirable specimens of art." — Atlas. NEW EDITIONS OF Black's Iron Highways from London to Edinburgh & Glasgow ; the one con- taining a Chart 64 inches long, the other a Chart of 46 inches. Is 6d. each. Black's Economical Tourist of Scotland. 3s 6d. Black's Guide through Edinburgh. 2s 6d. Black's Guide through Glasgow. 2s. Black's Road and Railway Map of England. 4s 6d'. Black's Road and Railway Map of Scotland. 4s 6d. Black's Travelling Map of Ireland. 2s 6d. Black's Map of the English Lake District. 2s 6d. Black's Map of North Wales. Is 6d. South Wales. Is6d. Black's County Maps of Scotland. Is. each. Elack's Plan of Edinburgh and Environs. Is 6d. Black's Tourist's Memorial of Scotland. 5s. Black's Map of Central Europe. 4s 6d. Adam & Charles Black, Edinburgh ; and Sold by all Booksellers. MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 21 MUNICH. HOTEL MAULICH. EY E. MAULICH. rPHIS Hotel, which is the first in Munich, is situated in a- central and most convenient position for Visitors to this renowned seat of the Fine Arts. It is conducted on a most liberal scale, and the Proprietor leaves nothing undone which a constant personal active superintendence can effect, to ensure the comfort and convenience of his Visitors. It has been honoured with the patronage of the highest personages of the Continent and Great Britain. The Proprietor begs to assure those who may honour him with their patronage that they may rely on a continuance of his endeavours to merit the same, and to maintain the reputation of his Establishment. RECENT WORKS. GROTE'S HISTORY OF GREECE. FROM THE EAKLIEST PERIOD DOWN TO THE END OF THE PELOPONNESSIAN W E. Second Edition. Maps. Vols. 1 to 8. 8vo. 16s. each. 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