.,V'i;:i|i:: ■■ ' ,'1' ■il U'l' i> I ■ ■ '|i, iii' ',1,' .;'' :,f 'I'll, ''', ll' i2 . ,1' '.'i'; |i" |i'.;;''i:i!iip'i;':' f;'«i"!.'> :: P'l!': /•■m'iji'' •'M>;;:>*:i.r ' (',(;*. '■' ; :!:'ll 1. '1'! rl, h'li :' ' ' ''h' :<.: 1.1 y'ii ,,.,„., ., '■•1;.' u' uli'^fiiii;,:.;:' F) ;i ''■'■■■ ''l-i|''j'fl:^ 1 : 1;:,'. ■ "•"i>'|iM .:fi' 'riM' ,,>':v;yvi:;;.:v.;.!'; ;:j' . I' :i"'iV;)vy Class JJ Book , ^.j ? 1 Copyriglitl^^ CQEXRIGHT D-EPOSm "VVSders^Tropics OR EXPLORATIONS AND ADVExNTURES OF HENRY M. STANLEY AND OTHER WORLD -RENOWNED TRAVELERS, INCI.UDING J-iiYingstone, paker, Cameron, Speke, pmin pasha, Pu Chaillu, ^ndersson, etc., etc. CONTAINING Willingficcount^of Famous B^^pedition^, MIRACULOUS ESCAPES, WIT.D SPORTS OF THE JUNGEE AND PLAIN, CURIOUS CUSTOMS OF SAVAGE RACES, JOURNEYS IN UN- KNOWN LANDS, AND MARVELOUS DISCOVERIES IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA, TOGETHER WITH GRAPHIC DESCRIPTIONS OF BEAUTIFUL SCENERY, FERTILE VALLEYS, VAST FORESTS, MIGHTY RIVERS AND CATARACTS, INLAND SEAS, y\A^ J^ MINES OF UNTOLD WEALTH, FEROCIOUS BEASTS, ETC., ETC. THE WHOLE COMPRISING A Vast Treasury of all that is Maroelous and Wonderful IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 17^ By henry davenport NORTHROR Author of ''Earth, Sea, and Sky;' etc., et/^-^^" cOPYR(GHr"% Embellished Witii more than, ^00 gtril^ing I NATIONAL PUBLISHING COMPANY, Philadelphia, Pa. ; Chicago, III., and St. Louis, Mo. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by J. R. JONES, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. A PREFACE. The wonderful discoveries and thrilling adventures of the world's greatest explorer, Henry M. Stanley, are related in this new work. It is a record of the most daring achievements and heroic deeds of modern times, describing the long and perilous journeys, the terrible sufferings, the brilliant conflicts with ferocious men and beasts, the grand discoveries, which have awakened intense interest and aroused thfe enthusiastic admiration of all civilized nations. The work depicts the brave struggles and hard-earned .successes of Stanley's early life, from the poor boy, dependent on charity, to the sturdy young soldier, carrying the knapsack and rifle. He becomes a corres- pondent of one of our great daily journals, is suddenly despatched to Africa to find the famous explorer, Livingstone, and enters upon his. marvelous career. Stanley's first great journey in the Dark Continent is vividly described. The reader follows the mighty explorer, becomes a sharer of his hard- ships and perils, and journeys with him through a land wonderful for the richness and variety of its recources, the grandeur and beauty of its scenery, the abundance of its animal life, and the remarkable traits and customs of its savage races. Before the onward march of the famous explorer, a path opens through the thickest jungle ; broad rivers shrink to rivulets; the rugged pass be- comes a smooth highway; wild animals flee in dismay; the American axe hews down sturdy forests ; the frail canoe descends foaming rapids and crosses inland seas; the Dark Continent gives up.the secrets that have baffled the world for thousands of years. The reader shares the thrill of excitement, joy and triumph, as Stanley, after the most heroic struggle, finds Livingstone and, grasps his hand! Stanley's next expedition, from Zanzibar right across the continent.to the Congo, is so full of perilous adventure, so remarkable for pluck, and \esolution, that it stands out boldly as the greatest achievement of our times. He vanishes from the sight of the civilized world. Weeks and months pass, and no intelligence comes from the intrepid explorer. Curiosity as to his fate becomes anxiety, and the anxiety grows into ter- rible suspense. Seasons roll their rounds .and. still no. news from. Stanley! 0) 11 PREAFCE. After untold privations, daring deeds and amazing triumphs, Stanley- emerges from the wilds of the Dark Continent amidst the acclamations of both hemispheres. The nineteenth century records no triumph more sublime than that of crossing, from sea to sea, this wild country, which had hitherto baffled all attempts to explore its silent mysteries. But the dazzling achievements of our great hero were not completed. Emin Pasha was located somewhere in the tropical wilderness, and struggling to hold the country of which he was ruler. Again Stanley hastened to the rescue ; again he was lost in the wilds of Africa ; again the interest of the world was awakened concerning his fate; and in this last great triumph he has put the climax upon all his previous explorations and victories, having crossed the Dark Continent again, this time from west to east. This work also gives a full and thrilling account of the marvelous dis- coveries of other world-renowned travelers in the Tropics. The reader is made a fellow-explorer with the immortal Livingstone, who traversed boundless regions where the foot of civilized man had never trod; with Sir Samuel Baker, Speke and Grant, whose daring expeditions in Central Africa place them in the front rank of modern heroes ; with Du Chaillu, Cameron, Andersson, Baldwin and others, whose undaunted bravery in the face of danger, and victories over bloodthirsty savages and wild beasts, have a resistless fascination. A brilliant panorama of tropical wonders passes before the reader's gaze. He traverses vast and. fertile plains, luxuriant valleys and desert wastes. He sees savage tribes in their curious costumes ; their strange marriage customs ; their ludicrous superstitions ; their reckless deeds of violence ; their monstrous social and religious rites, involving the frightful sacrifice of human life. He witnesses grotesque war-dances ; singular freaks of medicine men and rain makers; and strange antics of wizards. He beholds the majestic lion, the gigantic hippopotamus and fierce crocodile, monkey tribes, gorillas and venomous boa-constrictors, the fleet-footed ostrich, giraffe and zebra, the huge rhinoceros and bounding gazelle, and the ponderous elephant jarring the earth with his heavy tread. He wit- nesses the adventures of the chase, and deeds of daring surpassing the most startling tales of romance. He is captivated with tropical birds, arrayed in plumage of unrivalled beauty, and with brilliant forms of insect life, wonderful as the gigantic beasts of the plain and jungle. Stanley's recent expedition for the relief of the world-renowned Emin Pasha fixes upon him the gaze of all civilized peoples. The latest adven- tures and discoveries are fully narrated in this work. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. A Remarkable Man — Solving the Mysteries of the Dark Continent — Stanley's Birth in Wales — Sent in Early Life to the Almshouse at St. Asaph — A Teacher in Flint- shire—Struggling to Obtain Means for an Education — The Restless Spirit Show- ing itself— Seeking the New World — A Cabin Boy, Bound from Liverpool to New Orleans — The Welsh Boy Adopted by Stanley of New Orleans — Honesty and Capacity of the Boy — Death of Stanley's Benefactor — No Property Falls to the Adopted Son — Stanley in California — A Free and Happy Life Among Bold Ad- venturers — The School of Human Nature — Power of Endurance and Readiness for Daring Enterprises — Carrying the Knapsack and Rifle — A Soldier in the Confederate Army — Captured by Union Forces — Becomes Connected with the New York Herald — Off for the Battle-field in Turkey — Robbed by Brigands — Stanley Returns to England — The Children's Dinner at the Poorhouse — Sent by James Gordon Bennett with the British Abyssinian Expedition — Stanley's Messages First to Reach London — Livingstone Lost in Africa — Remarkable Midnight Interview with Mr. Bennett — "Find Livingstone at any Cost" 17 CHAPTER n. THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. . Africa a World of Surprises and Wonders — ^Journeys of Livingstone — The Young Scotch Boy — Born of Noble Parentage— An Ancestry of Sturdy Scotch Qualities — David's Factory Life — Eager Thirst for Knowledge — Tending the Loom, with One Eye on His Book — Studying Latin — A Lover of Heroic Deeds — Early Promise of Rising to Distinction — Resolves to Become a Medical Missionary in China — Departure for Africa — Physical Nerve and Endurance — Encounter with a Ferocious Lion — Livingstone's Narrow Escape — Gordon Cumming's Descrip- tion of the Noble Beast — A Powerful Animal — Beauty of the Lion — Roar of the Forest King — Frightful Ferocity — The Lion's Fearlessness — Requirements of Lion Hunters— Brave Character of Livingstone 33 CHAPTER III. LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. Livingstone's Life Among the Backwains — An Intelligent Chief — Trying to Whip the Heathen into Conversion — Appearance of the Backwains — Peculiar Head- Dress— Expert Thieves — A Bewitched Kettle — A Horrible Deed — An African Congress — Thrilling War Songs — Carrying on War for Glory — Livingstone's (iii) IV CONTENTS. Interest in this Tribe— Singular Superstitions — Medicine Men and Rain Doctors — Barbarous Practices — Severe Training for Boys — The Girls' Ordeal — Romantic Dances — Construction of Houses — Curious Burial Customs — Funeral Dances Among the Latookas — An Active Chief — The Rich No Better Than the Poor — Odd Decorations— ^Graceful Movements 47 CHAPTER IV. A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. Livingstone's Great Interest in the Makololo Tribe — The Fate of Ancient Nations — Extraordinary Changes in Southern Africa — Obscure Origin of the Hottentots — Displaced by the More Powerful Kaffirs — The Great Chief of the Makololo — Severe Punishment for Cowards — A Royal Young Snob — Fear of the Ferocious Lion — Headlong Charge of the Buffalo upon Hunters — Livingstone's Story of His Wagon — A Race in Eating — Frightful Battle with Hippopotami — Frail Boat Surrounded by Ugly Brutes — Superior Makololo Women — Mode of Building Houses — Strong Walls and Thatched Roofs — Strange Ideas of a Boatman — Offenders Flung to Crocodiles — Dividing the Spoils of Hunting — Sports of African Children — A Queen's Opinion of White People — Better Looking than she Imagined — A Grotesque and Exciting Dance... 77 CHAPTER V. PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS. Remarkable Successes of Livingstone — Forming a Station in the Wilderness — The Explorer Builds a House — Search for a Great Lake— A Desert with Prodigious Herds of Wild Animals — Starting on a Perilous Journey — Wagons Left in Charge of Natives — Travelling in Frail Canoes — Haunts of the Hippopotami — Thrilling Adventure with Crocodiles — Frantic Struggles to Escape from Death — Shooting the Huge Monster — Seized with a Sudden Horror— A Great Splash and a Cry of Joy— Ancient Crocodiles with Immense Jaws — Exciting Encounter with a River-Horse — A Remarkable Chief — Rivers and Swamps Breeding Fevers — Reaching the Banks of the Zambesi — Prevalence of a Troublesome Fly — A Magnificent River — Livingstone's Journey of a Thousand Miles with his Family — Malicious Attack by the Dutch Boers — Livingstone's House Plundered — The Explorer Reaches the Capital of the Makololo — Cordial Welcome from the Natives — The Young King Has a Rival — Ascending the Great River Zambesi — Attempt on the Life of the King — Makololo Architecture — A Grand Dance — Expedition to the West — The Balonda Country — A Visit to Shinti— Scarcity ol Food — Arrival at Loanda — Attacked by Savages— On the Leeba— Arrival at Linyanti 98 CHAPTER VI. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. Dangers of River Navigation — Luxuriant Wild Fruits — Skillful Management of Canoes by Natives — Magnificent Scenery — Man Seized by a Crocodile— Beautiful Flowers and Wild Honey — Strapping Chieftainess Smeared with Fat and Red Ochre — Pompous Chief— Curious Piano — Portuguese Traders — Warm Reception to the CONTENTS v.. Explorers— Lifting off Roofs of Houses to Cover the Travellers — A Chief who Killed His Subjects for Amusement— Remarkable Custom for Cementing Friendship — Tricksters who Want Money — Livingstone Suffers from Fever — Savage Attack upon the Expedition — Using Charms and Cuppiiig for Sickness — Black Corporal for an Escort— Beautiful Country Going to Waste — Vast Herds of Cattle— Ar Ornamental Garden — Natives Astonished by Strange Sights — Generous Gifts o f Jolly Tars— "Stones that Burn" — An Attractive Town — The Irrepressible Don- key — Strange Belitf in Evil Spirits— Grotesque Head-dresses — Fine Sport with the Gun — The Expedition Travelling in Small Canoes — Livingstone Charged by a Buffalo — Noisy Welcome to the Explorers — Troops of Elephants 103 CHAPTER VII. ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. Livingstone's Resolve to Reach the East Coast — A Fine Race of Negroes— One hun- dred and fourteen Trustworthy Men — The Brave Leaders of the Company — A Terrible Strorm- Sailing Down the River — Far-famed Victoria Falls — Scene of Extreme Beauty — Ascending Clouds of Spray — Immense Baobab Tree — Strange Mode of Salutation— Traffic in Ivory— Buffalo Brought Down with the Rifle — Presents from a Peace-loving Chief— Vast Numbers of Wild Animals — Huge Hippopotami and their Young — How the Natives Capture Elephants — Strange Appearance of the Natives — Mouths like those of Ducks — Hostilities by a Village Chief— Remains of an Old Portuguese Settlement— The Doctor's Ox Gallops off- Strange Cries and Waving Fire-brands — Visit from two Old Men — American Cal- ico in a Far Land — Surprising Instinct of the Elephant — The Enormous Beast Taught to Work for his Master— A New Way of Laying Timbers — Remarkable Story by an English Officer — Extraordinary Sagacity of the Elephant — Dangers in the Path of the Expedition — Great Risk from Being Attacked by Lions — Dread- ful Encounter with a King of the Forest— A " Civilized Breakfast" — Kind Recep- tion by an English Major — Natives who Plant Gold for Seed — Tree Supposed to Have Remarkable Medical Virtues — Four Years away from Cape Town — Ravages of Famine — A Chief who Wishes to Visit England — Seized with Insanity and Lost Overboard — Livingstone arrives in England 137 CHAPTER VIII. AFLOAT ON THE RIVER ZAMBESI. Fresh Start for a Long Exploring Tour — An English Steamer in African Waters — Battle between the Portuguese and a Savage Chief— Rescue of the Governor — The "Ma-Robert" Commences Her Voyage — Astonishment of the Natives — Hardships of Travelling in the Tropics — A Swift C&taract— The Murchinson Falls — A Chief Loses His Little Girl — Natives Obstructing the Exiiedition— Searching for a Great Lake — Pursued by a Buffalo— Trap for the Hijipopota mus— Failure to. Recover the Lost Child — Singular Ideas of Female Beauiy— Fear- ful Cry from the River — A Native's Deadly Combat with a Crocodile — Monsters Hatched from Eggs —Discovery of the Great Lake— Scarcity of Water — Return of the " Ma Robert " — A Conspicuous Fraud — Hostile Chief Conciliated — Abun- dance of Game and Numerous Lions — Sketch of the Batoka Tribe— Peculiar Fashion of Wearing the Hair — Masters of the Canoe— Perils among Breakers— VI CONTENTS. Very Polite Savages— Singular Customs and Ceremonies— Fearless Hunters — Na- tive Belief in a Future Existence — Melodious Sounds of Music— African Poets — Incorrigible Liars — Put to Death for Bewitching a Chief— Gang of Cattle Steal- ers — Adventure with a River Horse — Man Saved on a Rock — Tropical Chame- leon — A Marveleous Reptile— Shifting Colors — Seized by a Crocodile — Horse and Rider Terribly Wounded 159 CHAPTER IX. BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. Setting Out in a Leaky Vessel — A Losing Adventure — Bishop Mackenzie's Arrival — The " Pioneer" gets Aground— Description of a Well-known tribe — Farming in Africa— Generous Hospitality — Remarkable Costumes — Elegant Tattooing — Natives that Seldom Wash — An African Dancing Party — Belief in Visits from Departed Spirits — Burning Villages — Battle with Ajawa Warriors— Transporting the Boats Overland — Sudden and Terrific Siorm — Air Thick with Midges — Enormous Crocodiles — Camp Plundered by Thieves— Dangers Thicken — The Expedition on its Return — Mrs. Livingstone's Arrival — Deaths of Bishop Mac- kenzie and Mrs. Livingstone — Lonely Graves in a Strange Land — Bullets and Poisoned Arrows— Immense Flocks of Beautiful Birds — The Fiery Flamingo — Wine from the Palm — A Bird's Extraordinary Nest— Odd Specimen of the Monkey Tribes — Deserted Country — Lord Russell Recalls the Expedition — Alarm from Savage Invaders — The " Pioneer" Disabled— Livingstone at Bombay 190 CHAPTER X. LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. Sensation Caused by Livingstone's Discoveries — New Expedition — Arrival at Zan- zibar — Hard March Across thtl Country — Desertion of Sepoys — Arrival on the Shores of the Lake— No Canoes — Report of Murders by Arabs — Desertions Among the Men— Story of Livingstone's Death — Excitement in England— Expe- dition Sent to Learn the Explorer's Fate— Ravages by a Savage Tribe — Thieves in the Camp— Loss of the Medicine Chest — Sufferings from Fever — Arrival at Tanganyika — A New Lake on the West — Further Progress Stopped — Patient Waiting — Off for the New Lake at Last — Down the Lake to Cazembe's-High and Mighty Potentate — Formal Reception to Livingstone — Presents to the Chief- Shocking Stories of Human Sacrifices — Cropping off Ears and Lopping off Hands — A Tribe that Smelts Copper-ore— Hot Springs and Frequent Earth- quakes — Exploring Lake Bangweolo— Grave in the Forests — " Poor Mary Lies on Shupanga Brae " — Rernarkable Discovery — Modesty of the Great Explorer.. ..219 CHAPTER XI. TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. Great Excitement Among the Natives by the Presence of a White Man — Cruise on a Large Lake— Strike of Canoe-Men — Only a Coverlet with which to hire another Canoe— Food Obtained by Shooting Buffaloes — Fine Sport for the Hunter — How the Buffalo is Hunted— Thrillincr Adventure with the Huge Brute— A Hottentot CONTENTS. Vll Dodging in the Bushes — Terrible Foe — Adventure of a Friend of Livingstone — A Dangerous Meeting with Two Lions — Charge of a Mad Buffalo — Livingstone Pursues His Journey — A Country Convulsed by War — Mohammed and other Arab Traders — Flight for Life — Livingstone Pacifies the Natives — Return of Deserters — Start for Ujiji— Serious Illness — A Dauntless Hero — Encounter with an Elephant— Beautiful Monkeys in the Forest — Thousands of Ants on the March — Graphic Description of Manyuema — Degraded Tribe of Cannibals — Market Scene in Manyuema — Terrible Massacre — Disastrous Attempt to Go Forward — Lake Named after President Lincoln — The Explorer's Account cf the Soko — Freaks of a Strange Animal — A Wild Creature that Never Attacks Women — Amusing Female Soko — Ten Men with Stores Meet Livingstone — Shocking Barbarity — Hundreds of Lives Lost— Shameful Cruelty and Destruc- tion — Off on Foot for Ujiji — Near to Death— People Who Eat Their Enemies- Arrival at Ujiji — Sick, Worn out and m Desperate Straits 246 CHAPTER XII. STANLEY HASTENING TO THE RESCUE. Livingstone Traced to Ujiji — Search Expedition Organized in England — Alarm and Sorrow at the News of Livingstone's Death — News Discredited by Sir Roderick Murchison — Mr. Young Sent Out to Find the Lost Explorer — The Little Steel Vessel — The Expedition Hears of a White Man— Traces of Livingstone — :Natives Know Livingstone by His Photograph — Cheering News— Another Search Expe- dition — Money Eagerly Subscribed — Men Selected for the Undertaking — Stanley Leads the Way — Stanley on the March— Guides, Carriers and Donkeys — Band Music and Lively Songs — Natives Carrying Heavy Burdens on their Heads, — Perils and Difficulties of the Journey — Qualities Required in an Explorer — Tangled Brake and Wild Animals— The Ferocious Rhinoceros — Excitements of the Chase— A Monster Fleet as a Gazelle — Conflict Between an Elephant and Rhinoceros — Mr. Oswald s Narrow Escape — The Hunter Scarred for Life — Stanley s Misfortunes — Sentence of Flogging on a Deserter — The Donkey Whip — Daughter of an Infamous King — Urging Forward the Caravan -Sending Away a Sick Man — Stanley Frii^htens an Arab Sheik — Across Marshes and Rivers — Half Buried in a Swamp— Stanley's Graphic Account — Pursuit of a Runaway — The Fugitive Captured— Two Dozen Lashes and Put in Irons — The Captor Re- warded — Coral Beads for a Native's Wife 277 CHAPTER XIII. STANLEY'S HEROIC ACHIEVEMENTS. Stanley's Marvellous Courage and Enterprise — Abundance of Supplies — Perils Sur- rounding the Expedition— Paying Tribute to Chiefs — Dense Jungles and Thickets of Thorns — A Country Teeming with Noble Game — A Merry Bugler and His Horn — Stanley Invited to the House of a Sheik- Three Caravans Arrive m S.ifety — Letters to Livingstone Long Delayed — Illness of Stanley — The Explorer Senseless for Two Weeks— Shaw Agam Breaks Down— Chief Mirambo Disputes the March of the Expedition— Stanley Joins the Arab Forces — Deadly Encounter with Mirambo — Stanley's Graphic Account of the Conflict — Mirambo Gets His Foe into Ambush — Disastrous Defeat of the Arab Forccs — Stanley s Hasty Vlll CONTENTS. Flight— Setting off Hurridly at Midnight — Urging Forward the Donkeys — Safe at Last — Arab Boy Faithful to His American Master — News of Farquhar's Death — Burning a Village— Mirambo Retreats — Stanley's Little Slave Boy — How the Name Kalulu was Obtained — Shaw is Sent Back — Narrow Escape From a Croco- dile — Capture of an Immense Reptile — A Traveler's Startling Adventure — Mutiny in Stanley's Camp — Securing the Friendship of a Powerful Chief Home of the Lion and the Leopard— Stanley in Pursuit of Adventure— Encounter witli a Wild African Boar — Kalulu Badly Frightened— Crossing a P. rilous Rivtr- Exciting News of a White Man— Stanley Longs for a Horse — Expedition in High Spirits — More Demand for Tribute — A Bivouac in Silence — Passing Through an African Village— Great Alarm Among ihe Natives— Arrival at Last — March of Two Hundred and Thirty six Days 297 CHAPTER XIV. STANLEY FINDS THE LOST EXPLORER. Stanley's Perseverance — Mastering Mountains of Difficulty — Bent on Finding Living- stone — Characteristics of the Two Great Explorers — Livingstone's Touching Reference to the Death of His Wife — Wonderful Results of African Exploration — Stanley Approaches Ujiji— News of a Brother White Man — Great Exciternent Among the Travellers — Unfurling Flags and Firing Guns — Ujiji Surprised by the Coming of the Caravan— People Rushing by Hundreds to Meet Stanley — Joyous Welcome — Meeting the Servant of Livingstone — Flags, Streamers and Greet- ings — Livingstone's Surprise — The Great Travellers Face to Face— Stanley Relating the News of the Past Six Years— Livingstone's Personal Appearance — A Soldier from Unyanyembe — A Celebrated Letter Bag — Letters a Year Old — Narrative of Great Events — What Livingstone Thought of Stanley's Arrival — Letter to James Gordon Bennett — The Explorer's Forlorn Condition — On the Eve of Death when Stanley Arrived — Livingstone Thrilled by Mr. Bennett's Kmdness— Some Account of flie Country Visited— Discussing Future Plans — Stanley's Description of Livingstone — Fine Example of the Anglo-Saxon Spirit — Life Given to Ethiopia's Dusky Children — Livingstone's Marvellous Love for Africa 317 CHAPTER XV. LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY. Stanley and Livingstone at Ujiji— Cruise on Lake Tanganyika — GiantS' of African Discovery — Meetmg Enemies Upon the Shores — Geographers who Never Travel — Dusky Forms Dodging From Rock to Rock — Mountains Seven Thousand Feet High— Important Discovery — Livingstone's Desperate Resolve — Stanley Leaves for Zanzibar — Affecting Parting Between the Two Great Explorers — Living- stone's Intended Route — Later Search Expeditions — Livingstone's Sad and Romantic History — Timely Arrival of Reinforcements from Stanley — Start for the Southwest at Last Made — Without Food for Eight Days— Westward Once More— Continued Plunging In and Out of Morasses — Turbid Rivers and Miry Swamps— Natives Afraid of the White M.m -Extract from the " Last Journals" — Crossing the Chambeze— Gigantic Difficuhies Encountered— Livingstone Again Very 111— " Pale, Bloodless and Weak from Profuse Bleeding "—Rotten Tents CONTENTS. ix- Torn to Shreds — The Last Service — Livingstone Carried on a Litter — The Doctor Falls from His Donkey— A Night's Rest in a Hut — Natives Gather Round the Litter— A Well-known Chief Meets the Caravan — The Last Words Livingstone Ever Wrote— The Dying Hero Slowly Carried by Faithful Attendants — The Last Stage— Drowsiness and Insensibility — Ljing Under the Broad Eaves of a Native Hut — The Final Resting Place — Livingstone's Dying Words — The World's Great Hero Dead — Sorrowful Procession to the Coast — Body Transported to England — Funeral in Westminster Abbey — Crowds of Mourners and Eloquent Eulogies — Inscription on the Casket 332 CHAPTER XVI. STANLEY AND THE CONGO. Stanley's Absorbing Interest in Livingstone's Explorations — His Resolve to Find a Path from Sea to Sea — A Man of Remarkable Enterprise — Determined to Accom- plish His Object at Any Cost — Description of the Congo Region — Once the Most Famous Kingdom of Africa — A King Glorious in Trinkets — People Prostrating Themselves Before Their Monarch — The Whims of a Despot — Taxes Levied oh Furniture — Killing Husbands to Get Their Wives — Strange and Savage Cus- toms — Messengers Collecting Slaves and Ivory— A Nation Famous as Elephant Hunters and Men Stealers— Worship of a Wicked Deity — Priests with Absolute Power — Sacred Fire Burning Continually — A Priest so Holy That He Cannot Die a Natural Death — Test of Red Hot Iron Applied to the Skin — How the Congoese Disfigure Themselves — Outlandish Dress — Husbands Rebuked for Neglecting to Beat Their Wives— Pipes and Palm Wine — A Notorious Queen — Followed by a Host of Lovers — Horrible Practices — Slaughter of Male Children — The Queen's Tragic End — Queen Shinga and Her Daring Exploits— Female Demon— Universal Polygamy— Eating Habits of the Congo Tribes — Agonies of Indigestion — Singular Modes of Salutation — Stanley's Description of Welcoming Strangers — Love for Titles and Sounding Names— How Wives Manage Husbands — Famous Old King of the Gaboon — King William's Principal Wife — A Monarch Arrayed in Scarlet — Ferocious Tribes— Traders and Their Wares — Stanley's Description of the Coun- try — Superstitions and Paganism — Animal Life in Congo — Antelopes, Zebras and Buffaloes — Beautiful Monkey Tribe — Wild Attack of Cannibals — Immense War- Boat — Eveilasting Din of Drums — Horns Carved out of Elephants' Tusks— Wild War Cry — Singular Temple of Ivory — Horrid Monument of Mud and Skulls. ..350 CHAPTER XVn. STANLEY'S GREAT JOURNEY FROM SEA TO SEA. The Greatest Feat on Record— Stanley's Journey Across the Continent to the Congo — Expedition Planned by the Daily Telegraph of London and the New York //'^ra/a?— Englishmen in the Party — The Barge Named the "Lady Alice"- An Army of Followers to Carry the Outfit — Journey to the Victoria Nyanza — Specu- lation as to the Sources of the Nile — Dangers of Travelling in the Dark Conti- nent — Crawling Through Jungles — A Famine-stricken District — Two Young Lions for Food — Stanley's Pity for His Famishing Men— Death of a Young English- man—Burial Under a Tree — Discovery of the Extreme Soutthern Sources of the Nile — Arrival at Vinyata — Strange O.d Magic Doctor — Breaking Out of Hostili- X CONTENTS. ties— Severe Loss of Men — Treachery of Natives — Arrival of Six Beautiful Canoes — Stanley Receives a Royal Invitation — The Creat King Mtesa Welcomes the Traveller — Prodigal Display of Hospitality — Great Naval Parade in Honor of the Visitor — Uganda, the Country of King Mtesa — Startling Horrors of African Life — Severe Punishments Inflicted by the King — Errand Boys in Picturesque Dress — The King's Power of Life or Death — A Queen's Narrow Escape — Instru- ments of Torture — A Powerful Despot — Review of the Warriors — History of the Old King — Strange Tales of the Ancient Times — Marvellous Military Drill — Singular Funeral Customs — Description of King Mtesa in Early Life — How the King Receives Visitors — Royal Ceremonies — Supersiitious Dread of a Water Spirit — Decorations and Mystic Symbols — Worshipping with Fife and Drum — The African's Indolent Character— Stanley's Estimate of King Mtesa -A Doubtful Eulogy 371 CHAPTER XVIII. STANLEY'S PERILS IN CROSSING AFRICA. Stanley Off for Victoria Nyanza — A Redoubtable General Who Had to be Put in Irons — Stanley Received With August Ceremonies by a King— The Great Mtesa Agrees to Join the Expedition — The King's Wonderful Army— Splendid Battalions of Warriors — Native Hostilities on Foot — Repulse of Mtesa's Proud Army — Stan- ley's Cunning Device to Defeat the Enemy — Construction of a Terrible War- boat — Proclamation of Amnesty to Those Who Will Surrender — The Stiatagem Successful — A Renowned Arab — Stanley Obtains the Aid of Tipo-tipo — Dreadful Accounts of Ferocious Cannibals and Dwarfs With Poisoned Arrows — Tales Rivalling the Stories of the "Arabian Nights " — Dwarfs That Scream Like De- mons—Clouds of Arrows Filling the Air — Terrible Tales of Huge Pythons — Numerous Leopards and Other Wild Beasts — Stories of Gorillas — Stanley's Con- tract With Tipo-lipo— Arrival at Nyangwe — Livingstone's Description of Nyang- we's Renowned Market — Savage "Dudes" and Hard-working Women — An Amusing Scene — New Journeys and Discoveries — Fierce Attack From Hostile Natives— Engagement With Fifty-four Gun-boats— War Vessels Repulsed by Stanley's Men — Fifty-seven Cataracts in a Distance of Eighteen Hundred Miles — Five Months Covering One Hundred and Eighty Miles — Death in the Boiling Rapids— Men Hurried to a Yawning Abyss— Miraculous Escape of One of Stan- ley's Men — Thrilling Adventure of Zaida — Rescued in the Nick of Time — Brave Frank Pocock Drowned— Stanley's Incontrollable Grief^Nearing the Mouth of the Congo and the Atlantic Coast— Stanley's Letter Appealing for Help— Quick Response of White Men— Stanley's Letter of Grateful Thanks — Final Arrival at the Long-sought Coast — Stanley's Fame Fills the World 397 CHAPTER XIX. TRAVELS OF SIR SAMUEL AND LADY BAKER. Stanley and Emin Pasha — Other Famous African Travellers— Achievements Almost Superhuman — Fascination of Tropical Explorations — Sir Samuel and Lady Baker — Lady Baker Determined to Ace mpany Her Husband — Discomforts of Travelling in Africa — Intense Heat in the Nile Region — Barren Rocks and Sandy Wastes— Blue Sky Over a Blighted Land — The Wretclitd Town of Kor(»ko — CONTENTS. XI Searching for One of the Sources of the Nile— Arrival at Berber— Courtesies of an Ex Governor— The Travellers Pitch Their Tents in a Garden — A Charming Oasis — Fine Looking Slaves From the White Nile — Slaves Well Cared for by Their Master — Description of a Beautiful Slave Girl — Guard of Turkish Soldiers — Fine River and Forest Game — Sudden kise of the Nile — A Clew to One Part of the Nile Mystery — The Rainy Season Arrives — Interview With a Great Sheik — Venerable Arab on a Beautiful Snow-white Dromedary — Perfect Picture of a Desert Patriarch — Cordial Welcome to Baker and His Party — A Performance to Show the Sheik's Hospitality — Arrival at the Village of Sofi — On the Banks of the Atbara — The Travellers Living in Huts — A German in the Wilds of Africa — Man Killed by a Lion— Baker's Adventure With a River-horse— Savage Old Hippopotamus — Famous Arab Hunters — Wonderful Weapons — Story of the Old Arab and His Trap for the Hippopotamus — Capture of an Enormous Beast — Aggageers Hunting the Elephant — Thrilling Adventure of a Renowned Arab Hunter — An Elephant Dashing Upon His Foes Like an Avalanche — Fatal Blow of the Sharp Sword — Baker's Heroic Wife — Reason Why the Nile Overflows —An Ivory Trader — Baker Arrives at Khartoum — Romatic Beauty Destroyed by the Filth of a Miserable Town ,..422 CHAPTER XX. THE FAMOUS VALLEY OF THE NILE. The Immense Region of the Soudan — Remarkable Character of "Chinese" Gor- don — A Man Made of Damascus Steel — A Warrior and Not an Explorer — Mr. and Mrs. Baker Crossing the Nubian Desert — Hardships of a Long Camel Jour- ney — The Romance of a Desert Journey Destroyed — Travelling Through a Furnace — A Nubian Thunder Storm — Bakers Description of a Camel Ride — A Humorous Experience — "Warranted to Ride Easy" — Extraordinary Freak of Nature — Thorns Like Fish-hooks — Camel Plunging Into the Thorn Bushes— An African Scorpion — Water Six Inches Deep in the Tents — The Explorers Pressing Forward — The Party That Left Khartoum — The Carpenter Johann — Sickness and Death of Poor Johann — Celebrated Tribe of Blacks — Very Cheap Style of Dress — Traits of the Neuhr Tribe — Ludicrous Attempt to Get Into Shoes — Mode of Salutation - Mosquitoes in Africa — Visit from a Chief and His Daughter — Leopard Skin and Skull Cap of White Beads — Men Tall and Slender — Puny Children— An Indolent and Starving People — Herds of Cattle — Sacred Bull With Ornamented Horns — How a Prussian Baron Lost His Life — Termination of the Voyage — Appearance of the Country — The Explorers Looked Upon With Suspicion— Native Dwellings — The Perfection of Cleanliness — Huts With Projecting Roofs and Low Entrances — The Famous Bari Tribe — Warlike and Dangerous Savages — Story of an Umbrella — Systematic Extortion — Stories of Two Brave Boys , 439 CHAPTER XXL IN A WILD COUNTRY. Attempts to Shoot Baker — Desperate Mutiny in Camp — Notable Arrival — Meeting Grant and Speke— The Little Black Boy from Khartoum — Fresh Plot Among Baker's Men — Disarming the Conspirators — Heroism in the Face of Danger— XII CONTENTS. Mutinous Turks Driven Over a Precipice — Horrible Fate of Deserters — Exciting Elephant Hunt — March Through Beautiful Hunting Grounds — Thrilling Encoun- ter — The Huge Beast Turning on His Foes — Cowardly Followers— Elephant Nearly Caught — Wild Beasts Screaming Like a Steam Whistle — Tales of Narrow Escapes — African and Indian Elephants — Elephants in War — The Explorers at Obbo — Crafty Old Chief— Trouble to Get Rain — Spirited Dance of Obbos - Trying to Trade Wives — Satanic Escort— Grotesque Parade — Serious Illness of Mrs. Baker — Beautiful Landscape — Travelling in Canoes — Storm on the Lake — Tropical Hurricane — Dangers of the Lake Tour — The Explorers Advancing Under Difficulties — Continued Attacks of Fever — Life Endangered by Travelling in the Tropics 456 CHAPTER XXII. THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA. A Wilderness of Vegetation — Hearty Welcome From a Chief and Natives — 'Blind Leading the Blind" — Voyage Up the Victoria Nile — Severe Attack of Fever — Sufferings of Lady Baker— A Remarkable River — End of Canoe Voyage Begin- ning of a Toilsome March— Rumors Concerning a Great Waterfall — Thunder of the Cataract — Rocky Cliffs and Precipitous Banks — Magnificent View — Splendid Fall of Snow-white Water — Murchison Falls — The Niagara of the Tropics — Hip- popotamus Charges the Canoe — Startling Shock — Scrawny Travelling Beasts- Curious Refreshments — Arrival at a Chief's Island — Crossing Ravines and Tor- rents—Sickness on the March — Taking Shelter in a Wretched Hut — On the Verge of Starvation — Baker Arrayed in Highland Costume— Stirring Events — Meeting Between a Slave and Her, Former Mistress — Adventurous Journey — Pushing on for Shooa — Hunting Game for Dinner — Travellers Hungry as Wolves — Frolic- some Reception of the Explorers— March Through the Bari Country — Arrows Whizzing Overhead — Savage fatally Wounded — Night in a Hostile Countrj' — Lively Skirmish with the Natives —Arrival at Gondokoro — Excitement and Hurrahs — Terrible Ravages of the Plague— An Arab Gets His Deserts— Sir Samuel and Lady Baker Arrive at Cairo — Baker Receives the Award of the Victoria Gold Medal — The Hero Again in Africa 481 CHAPTER XXIII. A RENOWNED EXPEDITION. The Khedive of Egypt — Baker Made a Pasha — Second Expedition Towards the Sources of the Nile— A Scene of Desolation — Conveying Steel Steamers for the Albert Lake — The Expedition's Outfit — Musical Boxes and Magic Lanterns — The Military Forces — Baker's Very "Irregular Cavalry" — Grotesque Manoeuvres - The Camel Transport — Gun Carriages and Heavy Machinery — Steaming up the Nile — One of the Bravest Achievements of Modern Times — A Grand River — Im- mense Flats and Boundless Marshes — Current Checked by Floating Islands — Toilsome Passage — The Expedition Retreats — Pursuing Game — A Beautiful Animal^Baker in Camp — The Shillook Tribe— Superior Savages — Crafty Tres- passers — Old Chief with Immense Family — A Pompous Ruler — Wholesale Matri mony — Brown Men Get Jilted — A Little Black Pet — Natives Up in Arms — A CONTENTS. Xlli Dangerous Encounter — Attack From the Baris — Dastardly Traitor — The House- hold—Black Boys Who Would Not Steal Sugar— Liitle "Cuckoo"— A Remarka- ble Rock — An Old Superstition— On the March — Adventure with a Rhi- noceros — Horse Attacked — Timely Shot — The Wild Beast Laid Low — Arrival at Unyoro — Sanguinary Battle — "Chinese" Gordon at Khartoum— Gordon's Un- timely Death 500 CHAPTER XXIV. ' TWO CELEBRATED EXPLORERS. Speke and Grant on the March— Soldiers and Hottentots — Red Flannel and Wooly Heads — Dividing the Duties of the Expedition — Strike for Higher Wages — Rogues and Robbers — Excessive Politeness to Women —Polishing the African Skin— Natives Who Run and Hide — Black Boys Badly Scared — Speke on a Rhinoceros Hunt— Desperate Struggle to Obtain a Prize — Hunter Tossed Sky- ward — An Extraordinary Animal — Use of the Rhinoceros Horn — Peculiar Eyes — Habits of the Great Beast— A Match for the Swiftest Horse — A Hot Pursuit- Singular and Fatal Wound — A Rhinoceros in London — The Wild Beast Tamed — Fire-eating Monster — The Explorers Meet a Rogue — Kind Attentions of an Old Friend — Singular African Etiquette — How a Wife Welcomes Her Husband Back From a Journey— Murdrr and Plunder — Speke Obtains Freedom for a Slave — Horrid Cannibals— A Popular African Drink — How " Pomba " is Made — Arrival at Mininga — A Leader Who Was Named "Pig" — Obstinacy and Stupidity — Chief Who Wanted to See a White Man— Sly Tricks of the " Pig"— A Steady Old Traveller — Illness of the Explorer— Reception by a Friendly Chief — Alarm- ing News — Persistent Demands for Tribute — Necklaces of Coral Beads — The Explorer's Guides Forsake Him — Hurried Tramp of Men — Arrival of Grant's Porters 530 CHAPTER XXV. WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES. An African Village — Shelling Corn — Furniture in a Native's Hut— Peculiar Social Customs — Evening Dance — A Favorite Game — Weezee Boys and Their Bows and Arrows — Singular Mode of Shooting —Affectionate Greetings — Fine Models of the Human Form — Treatment of Slaves— A Happy Release — Avaricious Arabs — Horrible Punishments Inflicted Upon Offenders — Attacked by Black Robbers — Little Rohan, the Sailor — Boy's Bravery — Shooting Thieves — Speke and Grant at Karague Combats with Wild Animals— Beautiful Scenery— Interesting Family of a King— Royal Fit of Merriment — Famous Fat Wives — Mode of Fattening.' Women — Models of Beauty — Amusement in the Palace — A King's Levee — Meas- uring a very Fat Lady — Desperate Battle with a Hippopotamus — Mountain Ga- zellts — The Wonderful White M m — A King's Astonishment at Gunpowder — Women Beating the War Drum — Muical Instruments — Wild Musician — Gro- tesque Band of Music -A Merry Christmas— Speke on His Way to Uganda — Messengers from King Mtesa — A Remarkably Rich Country — Mountains of the Moon — Droll Customs of Savages — Frightening Away the Devil — Interview with King Mtesa— A Black Queen— The King Shoots an Adjutant bird— Wild and XIV CONTENTS. Fantastic Scene — A Famous Colo-iel — Arrival of Grant — The Explorers Pushing Forward — Speke Loses One ol His Men — Arrival at the Banks of the Nile — Singular Conveyances— Brutal Attack of Natives — Speke and Grant at the End of Their Journey — The Explorers Arrive in England — Important Discoveries ot Speke and Grant 552 CHAPTER XXVI. STANLEY'S GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF AFRICA. Remarkable Scenery in Central Africa — Masses of Rocky Mountains —Foliage Bright with all the Colors of the Rainbow— Rank Growths of Rushes and Grass — Varieties of Animal Life — The Guinea fowl— The Sacred Ibis — The Long-legged Stork and Heron — The Wonderful Shoebill— Primeval Forests and Runnmg Streams- Fine Specimens of Flowers — Perpetual Moisture — The Negro's Taste for Honey— The Fish-eagle — Majestic Flight — An Old Bird— The Eagle Contending for its Mate— Remarkable Claws— Turtle Doves and Golden Pheasants— Crows and Hawks — Fairy Antelopes — Grave -looking Monkeys — Beautiful Valleys and Hillsides — The Beautiful in Nature Marred by Human Cruelty — Cities Built by Insects— Waves of Rolling Land — Villages of African Tribes— Stanley's Descrip- tion of Tanganyika— Remarkable Lake — Lovely Landscape — A Native Bird — Famous Ibis — A Feathered Idol — Stanley's Glowing Description of Tropical Scenery — Desert of Sahara — Terrific Sand Storms— Whirlwinds of Dust— Fire in the Air— Extraordinary Storm Pillars — Remarkable Reptile Tribes — The Curious Gekko — Brilliant Insects— The Traveller's Pests — Remarkable Trees and Plants— The Wild Ox -The Wild Pig— Ten Kinds of Antelopes— Elegant Animals— Swift Punishment— Famous Gorilla — Inveterate Thieves — Quick Re- treat — The Orang-outang — Arms Longer Than Legs— Formidable Foe — Pursuit of the Orang-outang — Swinging Ea-;ily from Tree to Tree— Expert Climber- Hiding Among the Leaves-^The Young Orang — A Motherly Goat— Clever Monkey — Saucy Pet— A Little Thief— An Animal Very Human 581 CHAPTER XXVII. A FAMOUS AFRICAN HUNTER. Thrilling Incidents in the Life of Baldwin— A Man of Rare Attainments — Bold Hunter — Kaffirs and Hottentots — Terrible Drought — Two Stately Giraffes — A Rickety Old Wagon — Trouble With an Ancient Musket — Greedy Kaffir — Hostile Natives — Loud Talk and Bluster — The Land for Brilliant Sport— Troop of Elephants — The Buffalo and Rhinoceros— Bright and Burning Sun— Story of a Little African — Swimming a Turbid River — In Pursuit of a Huge Elephant — Crashing Through the Thicket — Hunter Charged by an Elephant — Fat Meat and Half-starved Natives — Immense Beasts Disappear Like Magic — Canoes Upset and their Crews Drowned— Race of Savages Always at War — Covetous Chief— An Open Air Dinner — Kaffir Girls for Waiters — Description of Kaffir Beauties — Roasted Giraffe for Dinner— An Unscrupulous Rascal — Trying to Get the Best ot the Bargain — In Pursuit of Elands— Ridmg at a Slashing Pace— Floundering Among Pit-falls— Another Encounter With Elephants — Perilous Situation— In Close Contact With an Immense Beast— Shots That Went Home— A Famous CONTENTS. XV Bird —Pathetic Death of a Dog — Combats With Tigers — Fxciting Events in the Jungle — Indiscriminate Combat — Savage Charge by a Buffalo — Caught Among Prickly Thorns — Beast that Cannot Be Driven — Chase of the Giraffe— Unique- Animal — Eyes of Wonderful Beauty — Elegant Roan Antelope — Crisis of Fate — A Herd of Harrisbucks — The Plumed Ostrich — Ingenious Method of Gttting Water— Ostrich Chicks— Not Particular as to Food 617 CHAPTER XXVIII. GALAXY OF RENOWNED EXPLORERS. Great Gorilla Hunter — Du Chaillu in the Jungles— First Gorilla Captured by a White Man — Formidable Monster — Ghastly Charms— Battle with a Bull — Hunter Tossed on Sharp Horns — The Camma Tribe — A very Sick Man — Infernal-looking Doctor — Snake Bones and Little Bells — Extraordinary Performance to Find the Sorcerer — Huge Fraud — Andersson in Africa — Guides Lose Their Way — Lives of the Whole Paity at Stake — A Search for Water in All Directions — Necessity of Returning Without Delay — Two Men Exploring the Country for Water Left Be- hind — Suffering of Men and Animals from Thirst — Grand and Appalling Confla- gration—Magnificent Spectacle — Cattle One Hundred and Fifty Hours Without a Single Drop of Water — Troop of Elephants — A Watch by Night — Wild Animals at a Water Course— Battle Between a Lion and Lion Hunter — Dogs and Natives — Exciting Hunting Scene — One Hundred Natives in the Field— Cameron in the Dark Continent — Illustrious Explorer — Expedition from Sea to Sea— Impor- tant Discoveries — Agreement Between African Explorers— Stanley's Fame As- sured 651 CHAPTER XXIX. THE CELEBRATED EMIN PASHA. 1 A Remarkable Man — Last of the Heroes of the Soudan— Birth of Emin Pasha — Early Education — Charmed with the Life of an Explorer — Determined to Visit Africa — Acquaintance with "Chinese" Gordon — Gordon's High Estimate of Emin — Emin Appointed to an Important Position — Governor of the Equatorial Province — Diffi- culties of the Situation— Strong Hand and Iron Will Required for the Natives — Emin's Very Irregular Troops — Marvellous Success of Emin's Government — A Large Deficit Changed to an Immense Profit — Construction of New Roads — Vil- lages Rebuilt — Immense Improvements Everywhere — Emin's Devotedness to his Great Undertaking — Wonderful Tact and Perseverance — Great Anxiety for Emin — Speculations Concerning His Situation — Resolve to Send an Expedition— Stanley Called upon for a Great Achievement 676 CHAPTER XXX. EMIN PASHA IN THE WILDS OF AFRICA. Emin's Graphic Story — Sent to Unyoro by " Chinese " Gordon — Emin's Company on the March — Drenched with Rain — Ox-hide Clothing — Fine Present— Very Diffi- XVI CONTENTS. cult Marching — Handsome Young Chief— A Manlike Animal— Ape Nests Among the Trees — The African Parrot — Several Species of Baboons — The King Sends an Escort — Tooting Horns and Rattling Drums —Arrival at Kabrega's— Cows With Neither Horns nor Humps — Country Well Peopled — Tall Grasses and Gigantic Reeds — The King's Greetings — Kabrega on a Stool — How the King Was Dressed — Kabrega's Fair Complexion — Amused with a Revolver — A Merry Monarch — A Savage Who Could Forgive — Funny Little Hump-backs — Numer- ous Albinos — Interesting Custom— Embassy to Gen. Gordon — A Worthless Governor — Exciting Melee 685 CHAPTER XXXI. EMIN PASHA'S DESCRIPTION OF THE WANYORO. Emin's Scholarly Attainments — A Shrewd Observer — The Wanyoro — Cleanly Hab- its — Sweet Perfumes — Triangular Finger-Nails — Wanyoro Cookery — Eating Earth — How Great Chiefs Eat — How Women Eat — What Africans Drink — Proud Wives of Chiefs — Use of Tobacco — Treating Friends With Coffee-berries — Wild Sports in Unyoro — A Famous Witch — Scene at a Fire — How Love Matches Are Made— Paying for a Wife by Installments — How Cririle is Punished — The Coun- try's Government — The King's Cattle — King Kabrega Claims All the Young Ladies — Legend of the Creation — Belief in Charms— Curious Superstitions — Le- gend of the Elephant — Legend of the Chimpanzee .' 704 • CHAPTER XXXII. EMIN PASHA'S PERILOUS SITUATION. The War of the False Prophet Goes on — Emin's Concern for Amadi — Sends Mes- sengers to Obtain News — Stirring Reports From the Scene of Conflict — Heroic Spirit of Some of Emin's Soldiers — Contemptible Treachery of a Part of Emin's • Forces — Presumptuous Letter From the Commander-in Chief of the Mahdist's Army — Intelligence of Gordon's Death — Exultation Among Moslem Arabs Over the Death of Gordon — Emin Summons His Officers to a Council of War — Reso- lution Passed by the Council — General Recommendation of a Retreat South- ward -Emin's Personal Supervision of the Southward March — Manner in Which Emin Received the Summons to Surrender— The Equatorial Provinces in a Perilous Situation— Emin's Letter to Dr. Felkin — News From England of a Pro- posed Expedition for Emin's Relief— Thanks for Heartfelt Sympathy — Emin's Expressed Resolve to Remain With His People— Gordon's Self-sacrificing Work Must be Carried on— Emin's Statement of What He Wants From England — Disreputable Arabs — Emin Anxiously Awaiting the Outcome of Present Troubles — Destructive Fire and the Loss of the Station at Wadelai — The Station Re-built— Emin's Estimate of His Own Supporters— Emphatic Determination Not to Evacuate the Territory 715 CONTENTS. s^vll CHAPTER XXXIII. STANLEY'S LAST GREAT EXPEDITION. Stanley Again in Africa— Fears for the Safety of Emin Pasha — King of the Belgians Resolves to Send an Expedition — Deciding upon a Route- Stanley States the ■ Character of the Expedition — A Country That Does Not Pay — Bees' Wax and India Rubber— Cutting off the Nile— A Country That Might Be Starved— Stanley States That His Mission is Pacific — Stanley's Old Friend Tipo-tipo — Six Hundred Men Enlisted— Meeting the Expenses of the Journey — The Expediton Leaves Zanzibar for the Mouth of the Congo — Overland Journey of Nearly Seventeen Hundred Miles — Appalling Difficulties — Transporting Munitions and Stores — Difficulty to Obtain Porters — Mysteries of the "White Pasha" — Gigantic False- hood Told Concerning Emin— Gloomy Predictions— Fears for the Safety of Stanley— The Whole Expedition Thought to Have Been Massacred — Blunders Committed in the Soudan and East Africa — Hostile Relations Between the Na- tive Tribes — Dangers Always Threatening a Passing Caravan — Marauders Eager • for Plunder — Stanley's Selection of the Congo Rout Criticized 723 CHAPTER XXXIV. STANLEY'S THRILLING NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY. The Great Explorer Heard From— News of Having Reached Emin Pasha — Interest- ing Letter from Mr. Stanley — Story of the Expedition's Movements — Awaiting the Arrival of a Steamer — Tipo tipo Again on the Scene— Lively Skirmish with the Natives— Setting Fire to Villages — Making an Attack Under Cover of Smoke — Proceeding Along the Left Bank of the Aruwimi — Again in the Wilderness — Death from Poisoned Arrows— Making Steady Progress — Arrival at the Camp— Attempt to Ruin the Expedition — What Stanley Calls an "Awful Month" — Brighter Pros- pects Ahead — Extreme Suffering from Hunger — Great Loss in Men — A Halt of Thirteen Days — View of the Land of Promise — Light After Continuous Gloom of One Hundred and Sixty Days— A Battle Imminent — Natives Prepare for War- fare — Terrible War-cries Ring from Hill to Hill— Treating with the Natives- Attempt to Drive Back the Expedition — Sharp-shooters Rout the Natives — The March Resumed — Perilous Descent— Stanley Builds a Fort— Laying Up Stores — Illness of Stanley — Deaths and Desertions— Stanley Starts Again -Obtaining Sup- plies — News Again of the "White Man." 732 CHAPTER XXXV. STANLEY FINDS EMIN PASHA. Wonderful Tales by Natives — "Ships as Large as Islands, Filled with Men "—Note from Emin Pasha — Strip of American Oil-cloth — Boat Dispatched to Nyanza— Hospitable Reception by the Egyptian Garrison— Joyful Meeting — Emin and xviil CONTENTS. Stanley Together — Only Sixteen Men Left Out of Fifty six— Favorable Accounts of the Fort — Getting Rid of Encumbrances — Moving Foward — Securing Am- ple Supplies — Immense Flotilla of Canoes — Hair-breadth Escapes and Tragic Scenes — Reorganizing the Expedition — St mley Reported Dead — Immense Loss of Men — Good Accounts of the Survivors — Vast Forests — Sublime Scenery — High Table-lands — Lake Nyanza— Conversation with Emin Pasha— What Shall be Done? — Planning to Remove — Disposing of Women and Children — Last Words— Stanley Sends a Message to the Troops — Emin Pasha to Visit the Fort — Stanley Makes a Short Cut— Success Thus Far of the Expedition 742 CHAPTER XXXVI. STANLEY IN THE BOUNDLESS FOREST. The Route Taken by Stanley— A March Beset by Fatal Perils— Death Thins the Ranks — Bushes and Creepers— Most Extensive Forest Region in Africa — One Hundred and Sixty Days in the Dense Woods — Loyal Blacks — Insects and Monkeys— Dwarfs and Poisoned Arrows — Gloom by Day and Frightful Darkness by Night— Sources of Moisture— W^ild and Savage Aborigines — Short-lived Vision of Beauty — Light at Last— The Expedition in Raptures at the Sight of Green Fields — Scene on a Derby Day— Wild With Delight — A Leprous Out- cast — " Beauty and the Beast " — News of a Powerful Tribe — Frantic Multitude — Fowls Plucked and Roasted- Skeletons Getting Fat — Back and Forth on the Banks of the Aruwimi — Emin Pasha — "See, Sir, What a Big Mountain" — Lake Albert Nyanza — Important Discoveries 752 CHAPTER XXXVII. . • HORRORS OF STANLEY'S MARCH. The Explorer Again Lost — Long and Painful Suspense — Welcome Despatch from Zanzibar — Wonderful March — Conspicuous Bravery — Stanley's Thrilling Story — Murder of Major Barttelott — Mission Church — "Outskirts of Blessed Civiliza- tion" — Vivid Word Painting —Stanley's Letter to a Friend — Movements of Jeph- son — Stanley's History of His Journey — Letter to the Chairman of the Emin Re- lief Fund — Rear Column in a Deplorable State-Land March Begun — Gathering Stores for the March — Small-pox— Terrible Mortality — Bridging a River — Crafty and Hostile Dwarfs — Tracks of Elephants — Fighting Starvation — Stanley Returns to Find the Missing Men — Making Friends with the Natives — Startling Letter from Jephson — Emin a Prisoner — The Insurgents Reach Lado— Emin's Followers Like Rats in a Trap — Stanley's Arrival Anxiously Awaited — Emin Clings to His Province — Stanley's Letter to Jephson — Absurd Indecision— Letter from Emin — Desperate Situation — Emin's Noble Traits— Stanley's Letter to Marston— Recital of Thrilling Events 761 CHAPTER XXXVIII. STANLEY'S TRIUMPH. Stanley's Continued History of His March — Emin's Arrival at Stanley's Camp — Arranging for the Journey — Arabs who Always Agree with You — That Stolen CONTENTS. XIX Rifle— Selim Bey Deposed — The Surgeon's Devotion — A Doctor who Loved His Cases — The Refugees and their Luggage — Fanstaff"'s Buck Basket — Piles of Rubbish — Porters with Ugly Temper — Emin's Inquiry — Government Envoy- Stanley's Reply to Emin — Hankering for Egypt — Stanley Reviews the Situa- tion — The Pasha's Danger — Rebels Everywhere —Stirrmg up Emin— Rebels Threaten to Rob Stanley — Threats of Sending Stanley's Expedition into the Wilderness to Perish — Selim Bey's Delay — Rebels Possessed of Ammunition — When Shall the March Commence? — Reply of the Officers — Questions of Honor and Duty — Europeans Unwillingto Quit Africa — A Contract Broken — Emin Acquit- ted of All Dishonor— Emin's Unwavering Faith — Few Willing to Follow Emin to Egypt^-Tales of Disorder and Distress — Compulsory Muster and Start — All Except Two Wish to Goto Zanzibar — Stanley Threatens the Treacherous Arabs — Expedition Starts for Home — Fifteen Hundred in the Party — Illness of Stan- ley — Conspiracies — Ringleader of Sedition Executed— A Packet of Letters — Inso- lent Message from Selim Bey — The Perilous March — A Great Snowy Range — Climbing the Mountains — Sufferings on the Journey 7S1 CHAPTER XXXIX. BRILLIANT RESULTS OF STANLEY'S JOURNEY. The World Hears the News — Stanley and Emin Pasha Arrive at Mpwapwa — Newspa- pers Aglow With the Intelligence — Intense Interest of All Civilized People — Unfor- tunate Report of Emin's Death — General Rejoicings on Account of Emin's Safety — The New York Herald Resolves to Send a Relief Expedition — Captain Wissmann's Despatch From Zanzibar — The German Government Rendering Every Possible Assistance — Stanley's Thrilling Narrative — Incidents of the Homev/ard March — The Explorer in Perfect Health — Stanley's Summons to Conduct the Expedi- tion — "Twenty Various Little Commissions "^A Hero Who Shirks No Task — Great Geographical Discoveries — The Aruwimi Explored from its Source to Its Bourne — The Immense Congo Forest — "Cloud King" Wrapped in Eternal Snow — Connection Between Two Great Lakes — Traversing Ranges of Moun- tains—Under the Burning Equator — Fed on Blackberries — Six Thousand Square Miles of Water Added to Victoria Nyanza — Animals, Birds, and Plants — New Stores of Knoweledge— The Hand of a Divinity — Events as They Occurred — Suf- ferings and Losses — " Horrible Forms of Men Smitten with Disease " — Sickening Sights — Death of a White Man— Emin Pasha and Jephson Threatened with in- stant Death— Prisoners in the Hands of the Mahdists — ^Jephson's Letters — Stan- ley's Faith in the Purity of His Own Motives — Guided By a Higher Power — Ter- rible Hardships of the March — "Agonies of Fierce Fevers" — What Vulgar People Call Luck— Strange Things in Heaven and Earth — A Summary of Bravery — Un- complaining Heroism of Dark Explorers — Incentives to Duty— Stanley's Letter to the British Consul at Zanzibar — Number of Persons Brought Out of Central Africa — Fifty-nine Infant Travellers — Eighteen of the Pasha's People Lost — Bur- dens Increasing with Each Advance — Carrying the Helpless One Thousand Miles — Four Days' Fighting — Prejudice Agamstthe Pasha Among the Natives — Talking of No Use — Valuable Discovery — Large Extension of a Lake — Mountainous Islands — Completeness of Stanley's Story — Review of the Expedition— Magnifi- cent Results — Immortal Fame of the Great Hero 797 XXll LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Weapons Used in Warfare Crocodiles in a Tropical Marsh . . Natives Dragging an Immense Crocodile Ashore . White-faced Wild Boar of Central Africa Map of the Great Lake District .... Stanley Finds Livingstone ..... Stanley and Livingstone Escaping from Savages African Houses with Thatched Roofs . Conveying Livingstone's Body to the Coast . The Giraffe or Camtlopard . . . Young "Fetish" Man of the Congo District King William of the Gaboon and His Principal Wife Guereza with Beautiful Flying Mantle . Immense War-Boat of Cannibals Advancing to Battle Monument and Skulls Erected to a Chief African Warrior Rushing to Battle King Mtesa and His Officers of State Peculiar Mode of Execution One of Mtesa's Wives Rescued from Death Wild Freaks of a Female Sorcerer Human Sacrifices in Honor of a Visit to King Mtesa Wild War-Dance of Savage Braves Beautiful African Leopard and Young . Battle between Stanley's Expedition and Fifty-four Canoes Heroic Rescue of Zaidi ■ . A Berber Family Crossing a Ford The Beautiful Slave Girl at Berber Exciting Combat with a Hippopotamus in the Atbara The Old Arab Attacking the Hippopotamus . An Elephant's Furious Charge upon His Foes Sir Samuel and Lady Baker Crossing the Desert Wild Arab's Swift Ride Venomous Scorpion .... Natives of the Nile Region „ Natives of Africa Capturing an Elephant Bull Elephant Shaking a Tree for Fruit . Elephants in Military Service Curious Obbo War-Dance Kamiasi's People Welcoming Mr. and Mrs. Baker Tne Start from M'rooli for the Lake with Kamrasi's Satanic Escort Herd of Hippopotami in the Albert Nyanza Lake Murchison Falls — The Niagara of Africa LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XXIU Ferocious Attack of a Hippopotamus Grand Dance of Welcome to Mr and Mrs. Baker Lively Skirmish with the Natives . Camels Transporting Steamers Across the Desert Antelopes Guarded by a Sentry Shillook Warriors with Dress and Weapons " The Black Soldiers Immediately Attacked the Crocodile " Curious Table-Rock in the Nile Valley . " Crack ! went a Bullet against His Hide " . Wazaramo Village ..... Greedy Natives Fighting over a Captured Hippopotamus " The Animal Sent Him into, the Air " . Desperate Race ...... Put to Flight by a Sudden Charge . Grand Torchlight Dance of the Weezee Dancing Party to Welcome a Returning Husband Peculiar African Bullock .... Social Amusements among the Weezees Young Weezee Shooting Pigeons An Ivory Merchant's Camp .... Combat with an Enraged Lioness . A Happy Native . . . . . Landing an Enormous Hippopotamus . Infuriated Rhinoceros Routing His Foes Peculiar Musical Instruments. Curious Adjutant-Bird . . • • " Grant's Rapid Journey from Karagwe . Elephants Escaping from Tneir Pursuers Strange African Shoebill .... Fish-Eagles Contending for a Prize Life and Metamorphosis of the Dragon-fly Desperate Batde with the King of the Forest . Beautiful Pheasant ..... Columns of Desert Sand Formed by a Cyclone African Gekko or Wall-lizard Gigantic Beetle . . . ... Native Captured by a Ferocious Leopard The World-renowned Gorilla Orang-outang Captured . ... Apes among the Trees ..... Herd of African Elephants .... Chased by an Enraged Elephant . PAGE 486 492 495 505 510 5^3 518 523 526 532 534 536 539 542 544 546 549 *553 555 557 560 562 565 567 569 573 575 578 583 586 588 591 593 597 599 601 604 606 611 614 621 624 XXIV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Dining with a Kaffir Chief Headlong Chase of Three Elands . At Close Quarters .... A Perilous Position Terrible Combat with Tigers Narrow Escape from a Wild Buffalo A Race for Life .... Giraffes Fleeing from a Hunter Herd of Harrisbucks in Full Flight Curious Mode of Capturing Ostriches Exciting Chase of a Wild Ostrich South American Ostrich and Young Terrible Combat with a Gorrilla . "It Tossed Him High into the Air Once O.jganga Doctor Discovering a Witch A Struggle for Life Leopard and Ant-Bear in Mortal Combat Sotfth African Kangaroos Warrior with Battle-axe Carved Ivory Trumpets Chief with Remarkable Goatee Camel of Arabia .... Traveller and Camel Crossing the Dessert Hunting the Wild Boar in Africa . Desperate Combat with'%Lion Kaffirs' Lively War-Dance Emin Pasha (Dr Schnitzer) . Some of Emin Pasha's Irregulars . African King and His Great Chiefs Returnin In the Jaws of Death Chirping Cricket Arrival at Kabrega's Map of Equatorial Africa Expedition Crossing a Temporary Bridge Henry M. Stanley and His Automatic Machine Abyssinian Foot Soldier Stanley Threatens Death if the Box is Dropped Animals of the Tropics Skirmish Drill of Kaffir Warriors Extraordinary Forest Growths in Africa Monkey Town in Central Africa . Twice, Thrice a Visit Gun ANIMALS, REPTILES AND FISH OF THE TROPI*^.. Wonders t»h^. Tropics OR EXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURES OF HKNRY ISA, STANLKY. CHAPTER I. STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. A Remarkable Man — Solving the Mysteries of the Dark Continent— Stanley's Birth in Wales — Sent in Early Life to the Almshouse at St. Asaph — A Teacher in Flint- shire—Struggling to Obtain Means for an Education — The Restless Spirit Show- ing itself— Seeking the New World — A Cabin Boy, Bound from Liverpool to New Orleans — The Welsh Boy Adopted by Stanley of New Orleans — Honesty and Capacity of the Boy— Death of Stanley's Benefactor — No Property Falls to the Adopted Son — Stanley in California — A Free and Happy Life Among Bold Ad- venturers — The School of Human Nature — Power of Endurance and Readiness for Daring Enterprises— Carrying the Knapsack and Rifle — A Soldier in the Confederate Army — Captured by Union Forces — Becomes Connected with the New York Herald— Off for the Battle-field in Turkey— Robbed by Brigands- Stanley Returns to England — The Children's Dinner at the Poorhouse — Sent by James Gordon Bennett with the British Abyssinian Expedition — Stanley's Messages First to Reach London — Livingstone Lost in Africa — ft.emarkable Midnight Interview with Mr. Bennett — "Find Livingstone at any Cost." 'HE world is filled with the fame of Henry M. Stanley. What Cicero was in eloquence, what Newton was in science, what Gladstone is in statesmanship, this Stanley is in exploration and adventure. For bold enterprise, for daring achievement, for unconquerable perseverance, for singular command of men, for intrepid bravery in the face of danger, he stands unrivalled among the heroes of modern times ; and this is saying much considering that modern history boasts of such names as Livingstone, Baker, Emin Bey, Cameron and Speke in Tropical discoveries, and Franklin, Kane and Greeley in Arctic voyages and perils. 2 18 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. To this man the eyes of the world are drawn ; the Dark Continent has yielded to him its mysteries, and when it shall be changed by the on- ward march of civilization, the eulogies pronounced upon him will be even more eloquent, and a large share of the credit of redeeming the uncivilized wastes of Africa will be freely accorded to him. Like many men who have distinguished themselves in every' field of enterprise and discovery, Stanley came from very humble life, and by force of native genius, resolute will and self-sacrificing devotion to his work, has gained the foremost rank among the noble band of explorers whose thrilling achievements have an interest surpassing that of the most marvelous tales of fiction. Henry M. Stanley, although an American by residence and education, was born at Denbigh, in Wales, in 1840. The names of his parents were Rowland. They belonged to the very poor, yet, like many of the peas- antry in old countries, they possessed some sterling qualities of mind and heart and character. These have been reproduced in their son. who has risen far above the surroundings of his childhood, and has become celebrated by achievements which never could have been predicted from the circumstances of his early life. As it was not possible for him to be cared for and supported at home, at the early age of three years he was placed in the almshouse at St. Asaph. Here it was expected he would receive the care and training, both meagre indeed, which such an institu- tion was able to furnish. Seeking the New World. Stanley remained at the almshouse until he was thirteen years old. It seems probable that there is just here a space of several years which is not accounted for, since the next we hear of him he was a teacher at Mold, in Flintshire, endeavoring by this occupation to provide himself with the means of taking a thorough course of stud)'' and completing his educatfon. It appears, however, that he remained at Mold only one year. By this time the restless spirit of the youth had begun to show itself and he gave signs that his life would be one of adventure. Having shipped at Liverpool as a cabin-boy on a vessel that was bound for New Orleans, he thought he would try the New World and learn what fortune might await him there. His youthful mind had been awak- ened by glowing accounts of the open fields on this side of the Atlantic, and the larger opportunities which awaited industrious and enterprising young men. Having arrived at New Orleans, he soon obtained employment with a merchant named Stanley. This man was attracted by the frank, open- STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. 19 ■hearted manner of the boy, and not only received him into his family, ebut soon adopted him as his own. His friend and benefactor soon learned ■that his confidence had not been misplaced; that the impulsive Welsh HENRY M. STANLEY, THE WORLD S GREATEST EXPLORER. ^boy was capable of great things; that he was honest and competent; and although at that time no prediction could have been made of the wonder- ful career which lay before him, yet, even then, it could safely have been 20 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. said that in some capacity or other he was hkely to become distinguished! above ordinary men. k- Stanley's benefactor died intestate, or at least none of his property fell to his adopted son. By the sudden bereavement which had overtakem him, he was left alone in the world and brought face to face with the startling fact that he was to be the architect of his own fortune; that he. was to find his surest helper in himself; that he could accomplish in life just what his own capacity and push and genius would enable him to bring to pass. In his case, as in that of others, it is interesting to trace the chain of circumstances which led him on to the great undertakings which have since startled the world. Stanley in California. He was seized with a strong desire to visit the Pacific coast. It is not worth while here to recount the adventures and hardships which he underwent in carrying out his cherished wish to acquaint himself with the western part of our country ; the old saying that " where there is a •will there is a way," was fully illustrated in this instance. For a time he roamed over different parts of California; gazed upon the romantic scenes which that country affords ; made the acquaintance of miners as they sat around their camp-fires ; listened to the tales of their exploits ;: wondered at the magnificent products of nature, the lofty trees of the Sierras and the sublime scenery of the Yosemite Valley, and became familiar with the character of the bold men who were attracted to this region by the fascinating*tales which had been related of the discovery of gold. During this time he was not only familiarizing himself with the natural scenes which had for him a strong fascination, but he was studying human nature, learning the ways of men, and, by his genial qualities and ready adaptation to circumstances, making friends wherever he went. Scarcely any school could .have been better for him at this time. The hardy life that he led developed his physical strength and made him a man of nerve and iron. His power of endurance already showed itself. Few could travel farther or endure more fatigue than he. If any little enterprise was planned which required a brave spirit, Stanley was the young man who was found equal to the occasion. He was a brave, strong character ; just the one to cross seas, climb mountains, wade rivers, endure hardships, explore continents. Carrying- the Knapsack and Rifle. Returning from California, it was but natural that, as he had previously resided in the South, he should identify himself with the Confederate STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. 2l Army. To one like him there was something captivating about the Hfe of a soldier ; he was not in the habit of turning back from the face of danger. His life hitherto had prepared him for just those exploits which are connected with bold military achievements. And although his con- nection with the Confederate Army was brief, it was evident that he had the material in him for a good soldier ; in fact, it was while carrying out -one of his adventurous projects that he was captured by the Union troops and was made prisoner of war. He was confined on board the iron-clad Ticonderoga, and here again his manly bearing and frank, genial manner won him friends. The com- mander of the vessel was willing to release him on condition that he should join the United States Navy, This he consented to do, although there was not much about the life of a sailor that attracted him. By this voluntary act he separated himself from the Confederate Army, and be- came an ally of the Federal forces. He remained, doing such service as was required of him, until the close of the war. Suddenly his occupa- tion was gone, and again he seemed to be thrown upon the world. This fact had no discouragements for him ; he took it as a matter of coursfe. It was not in the nature of things that so bright and spirited a young man should long remain idle. Having had a taste of the excitement of military campaigns, he conceived the bold project of crossing the Atlan- tic, and, if opportunity offered, continuing his military career. Oflf to tlie Battle-field. There was trouble in Turkey at this time on account of the uprising of the Cretans, who, having borne their oppression until endurance -ceased to be a virtue, resolved to throw off the yoke under wljiich they had suffered. It was but natural that Stanley should feel sympathy for any tribe or nation struggling for independence, and at once he resolved to ally himself with the Cretans and take again the chances of war. At this time he formed a connection which has influenced his career ■ever since, and which was the most important that he ever entered into. As he was going East, and would be an eye-witness of the stirring scenes transpiring in the Orient, he secured the position of correspondent for the New York Herald, and immediately, in company with two Ameri- cans, set sail for the Island of Crete. The old saying that " distance lends enchantment to the view" was fully illustrated in his case, for after h& had arrived upon the ground and had become acquainted with the movement that was in progress for securing the independence of Crete, he became thoroughly disgusted with the leaders of the rebellion, and entirely changed his opinion as to the merits of the case. He recalled 22 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. at once his resolve and determined that he would not identify himself with. the malcontents whose cause, after he had investigated it, did not appeal to his sympathies. Again he was a " free lance" and was at liberty to undertake any labor or occupation that presented itself Fortunately he had received from New York full permission to go wherever he pleased. He could travel in any direction, gain a knowledge of what was transpiring in other countries, describe the active scenes that were taking place, and send his letters to the journal which was now employing him, with the certainty that they would be read with interest. Americans are quick in obtaining information from other parts of the world, and their eagerness for it is exhibited by the fact that so many of our enterprising journals have their correspondents in other countries; The education of our people peculiarly fits them for an active interest in whatever of importance is going on throughout the world, Rol>l>fid by Brig-ands. Stanley and his friends soon met with an adventure which shows the dangers through which they passed and the kind of people they encoun- tered. A party of Turkish brigands made an attack upon them and robbed them of all their money and extra clothing. This is not an unusual occurrence in many parts of the East, where travellers run continuous risks and are constantly exposed to the marauding disposition of reckless robbers and brigands. At this time Mr. Morris was oiir United States Minister at Constantinople, and the case was presented to him ; he im- mediately interested himself in behalf of Stanley and his friends and brought the matter to the attention of the Turkish officials. Mr. Morris was extremely helpful to his fellow Americans, and having loaned them whatever was needful, they continued their wanderings. It will be under- stood that during this time letters were forwarded to the New York Herald, containing graphic descriptions of eastern life and manners. Having accomplished what he desired in this direction, Stanley set his face toward England and once again arrived in the land of his birth, where the scenes of his early boyhood were laid. It is one of the characteristics of a noble nature that it does not forget its early struggles and experiences. The remembrance of poverty has no pain for the man who has risen above it and made himself the master of circumstances. It is a tribute to Mr. Stanley's worth that he did not for- get the old almshouse, where his early days were spent. One of the first things he did after arriving in England was to visit this very place, there recalling scenes through which he had passed years before. THE CELEBRATED EXPLORERS OF THE WORLD. (23) 24 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. All accounts agree that this visit was very interesting ; it was so to the one who was making it and also to those who were receiving it. The children whom Stanley knew as inmates of this place had grown up and most of them had gone out into the world, but " the poor ye have always with you," and there were other little ones, with wan faces, whose sad life appealed to the heart of the great traveller. Stanley resolved to give these little people a right good dinner, and we may be sure the intention was received with as much enthusiasm on the part of those who were to partake of the dinner as it was formed on the the part of the benefactor. The Cliildren's Dinner at tlie Poorhouse. On this occasion Stanley appeared in his true light, the nature of the man showing itself That nature is one of essential kindness, as has been shown through all his explorations, becoming severe and haughty only for effect and when such, exhibition of sternness is absolutely required. Of course the little people at the poorhouse of St. Asaph were delighted ; their efficiency in disposing of that dinner was both conspicuous and admirable, and after they had been fed and filled, there was another treat in store for them. They were to have a talk from the one who had made them so happy, and were to hear a brief account of some of his travels and wanderings. Stanley addressed them in plain, simple, child's language, showing at once his adaptation to all classes and conditions of people. The little folks were delighted to hear his stories ; more than this, they received from him words of instruction and encour- agement, which, if remembered and heeded, must have made them by this time strong men and women. We next find Stanley back again in the United States. This was in the year 1867 ; he was then but little more than twenty-five years of age, but he had passed through more than most men do in a long lifetime ; had already seen more of the world than many well-known travellers ; had been in more dangers than many who have written strange tales of their adventures ; and had obtained a general knowledge of the world at large, which is some considerable part of the capital of every well- furnished man. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the New York Herald, gave him a hearty reception, and with his shrewd eye saw at once the prize he had obtained and the kind of man with whom he had to deal. About this time the King of Abyssinia, who was one of the subjects of Her Majesty, Queen Victoria, became very restless, thought he was entitled to the management of his own affairs, and created such a dis- STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. 25 turbance and mutiny against the formidable powers of Britain that an ■expedition was sent out to straighten his tangled affairs and bring him into becoming submission. A spirit of adventure always gathers about such an expedition as this. Not only among the regular forces is there sometimes an eagerness for the new country and the excitement of the ■campaign, but there are always followers who have business of one kind or another, and who are captivated with the opportunities afforded to gratify their roving dispositions. The war correspondent may not always be of this description, but he must be a man of peculiar characteristics. Graphic Description of Abyssinian Warfare. It is scarcely necessary to say that as Abyssinia was the central point •of interest at this time, Stanley received permission to accompany the English forces and give detailed accounts of their operations. His letters attracted wide attention and were read with eager interest. While not the letters of a highly educated man, they were the productions of one ivho was peculiarly fitted for his work, and who could seize upon just those points which were of interest to the general public, and who could •express them in language at once graphic and plain, and could thus fas- cinate a wide circle of readers. Stanley was not disheartened by any difficulties; in short, he was rather looking for some opportunity to perform achievements such as other men would not be likely to undertake, and such as would give him reputation and renown. When the last battle was fought in this Abys- sinian campaign, official dispatches, of course, were sent to London. Stanley's messages outstripped all official dispatches and brought the first news of the victory to the ears of the British people. When inquiries were made in London as to the progress of the battle, they were answered by the government officials with the statement that it was not yet over. Suddenly Stanley's dispatches arrived, with the statement that the battle was over, and at a later period this announcement was officially confirmed. This of itself was enough to give Stanley fame as a newspaper corre- spondent. It was not a little humiliating to those ponderous official T)odies, which move slowly, to learn that a live Yankee had outstripped them and got ahead of all their calculations. Not only was he expert in getting the news ahead, but his description of this campaign is universally ■considered as the very best and most accurate that has ever been written. "Visit to Spain. The next year, 1868, found Stanley again in the United States, not long to remain, however. A civil war was raging at this time in Spain. Very soon we find Stanley again in Europe, actually taking his position 26 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. upon the battle-fields to be a spectator of the conflicts, then relating withi minuteness what had taken place, and giving a graphic description of the scenes which he_ had witnessed. His letters at this time gave a very- accurate idea of Spanish affairs. He not only saw the events, but he saw the forces which had produced them. For a long time there had been political strife in Spain; the position of the contending parties, the ideas that were clamoring for the ascendant, all this was given as with a photo- graphic lens by the brilliant correspondent, and was made known to the world at large. The same promptness and energy which had previously distinguished him came out vividly in his life in Spain. Just here we have one of the most striking chapters in the career of the great explorer. "What Has Become of Living-stone?" It must be evident by this time to the reader that Stanley was at home everywhere. He did not stop to consider climate, country, language or hardships when he was to undertake one of his daring enterprises. His first plan had been to remain in Spain for a long period of time, content- ing himself to sojourn in that land which, for Americans, has compara- tively few attractions. This plan, however, was suddenly abandoned. There was another and more famous field for his spirit of adventure. David Livingstone was in Africa. This man, whose name has gone into all the earth, was the marvel of his time, possessing, and in an equally eminent degree, many of those characteristics which belong to the hero whose early life we are relating. It was a bold conception on the part of Livingstone to enter the wilds of the Dark Continent, explore the mysteries that had puzzled the world for ages, learn the character of the African tribes, obtain a knowledge of the geography of that vast continent, and thereby prepare the way for commerce and for those missionaiy labors which were to bring civilization to the land that had long been lying in darkness. Livingstone had long been absent and the curiosity which was awak- ened concerning his fate amounted even to anxiety. He had many per- sonal friends in England and Scotland who had taken great interest in his travels, and who were eager now to obtain some information con- cerning him. The probabilities of his fate were freely discussed in news- papers and journals, and among many the opinion prevailed that the great discoverer would never return to his native land alive. The ques- tion, " What has become of Livingstone ?" was agitating both hemis- pheres ; a singular instance of the interest which, by forces of circum- stances, will sometimes gather around a single great character. (27) 28 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. James Gordon Bennett was just the one to solve the all-perplexing question. Was Livingstone alive ? If alive, in what part of Africa was he located ? Or was he dead ? Could any intelligence of him be obtained ? Where was the bold spirit who would venture out into that wild and threatening region and answer the questions which were so freely raised concerning this one man ? It was believed that if the great explorer was alive, his trail could be followed, and, although it would cost an almost superhuman effort, he could be found. To find him would be sufficient glory for any one man, and the journal that should record such an achievement as this would stand in the front rank of the great newspapers of America and England. Mr. Bennett resolved to make the trial, and, of course, Henry M. Stanley was the one selected for this daring expedition. Mr. Bennett was in Paris and suddenly summoned Mr. Stanley from Spain. This unexpected recall somewhat astonished Stanley, yet there was an intimation in his mind that some bold undertaking was planned, and with high hopes he immediately made the journey to Paris. He arrived late at night, but would not sleep until after an interview with the one who had summoned him. For a long time the project was discussed, and before that first interview was concluded, it appeared to both to be a practicable scheme to under- take the discovery of Livingstone. Offers of Help Kejected. It came to the ears of the Royal Geographical Society of London that an attempt was to be piade to obtain information concerning the lost explorer. This Society, which has had a long and honorable career and has done much towards opening parts of the world that had hitherto been sealed against all the advances of civilization, offered to bear a part of the expenses that would be incurred in sending Mr. Stanley into the continent of Africa. Mr. Bennett, however, was willing to undertake the matter alone, bear all the expenses and keep himself free from any dictation on the part of those who would have all sorts of opinions to express and plans to propose, and would think that these should be regarded because they were bearing a part of the expenses. The decis- ion was a wise one, and Stanley was left perfectly free to follow out his own ideas, go where he wished, remain as long as he pleased, only agree- ing to do his utmost to solve the problem which all the nations of Christendom had on hand. The account given by Stanley himself of the commission received from Mr. Bennett is somewhat amusing. It is as follows : On the ^sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. 29 hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from the carnage at Valencia. At lo a.m. I received a telegram. It read, "Come to Paris on important business." The telegram was from Mr. James Gordon^ Bennett, Jr., the young manager of the New York Herald. Sudden Start for Paris. Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the second floor ; into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my clothes were hastily collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half dry, and after a couple of hours hasty hard work my portmanteaus were strapped up and labelled " Paris." At 3 p. M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a few hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went straight to the " Grand Hotel," and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's room. " Come in," I heard a voice say. Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed. " Who are you ? " he asked. " My name is Stanley," I answered. " Ah, yes ! sit down ; I have important business on hand for you." After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre, Mr. Bennett asked, " Where do you think Livingstone is ?" " I really do not know, sir." " Do you think he is alive ?" " He may be, and he may not," I answered. " Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to send you. to find him." " What ! " said I, " do you really think I can find Dr. Livingstone? Do you mean me to go to Central Africa?" " Yes; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may hear that he is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps " — deliver- ing himself thoughtfully and deliberately — " the old man may be in want : — take enough with you to help him should he require it. Of course you will act according to your own plans, and do what you think best — BUT FIND Livingstone!" Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa to search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men, be- lieved to be dead, " Have you considered seriously the great expense you are likely to incur on' account of this Httle journey?" " What will it cost?" he asked abruptly. " Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between ;^3,ooo and ;C5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under ^^"2,500." so WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. " Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds now, and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that is spent draw another thousand, and when you have finished that, draw another thousand, and so on ; but, find Livingstone." Surprised but not confused at the order — for I knew that Mr. Bennett when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his purpose — I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case ; I said, " I have heard that should your father die you would sell the Herald and retire from business." " Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not money enough in New York city to buy the New York Herald. My father has made it a great paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a newspa- per in the true sehse of the word. I mean that it shall publish whatever fnews will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost." " After that," said I, " I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go straight to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone ? " " No ! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Ganal first, and then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt. Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for tourists ; and then write up a guide — a practical one — for Lower Egypt ; tell us about what- ever is worth seeing and how to see it. A J^ong Journey Planned. " Then you might as well go to Jerusalem ; I hear Captain Warren is ■making some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople, and find out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan. " Then — let me see — you might as well visit the Crimea and those old battle-grounds. Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea ; I hear there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva, From thence you may get through Persia to India ; you could write an interesting letter from Persepolis. " Bagdad will be close on your way to India ; suppose you go there, and write up something about the Euphrates Valley Railway. Then, when you have come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar ; .but if not, go into the interior and find him. If alive, get what news of this discoveries you can ; and if you find he is dead, bring all possible ^proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be with .you." STANLEY'S EARLY LIFE. 31 " Good-night, sir," I said ; " what it is in the power of human nature lo do I will do ; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be with me." The foregoing is Mr. Stanley's interesting account of the manner in which he received one of the most important and difficult commissions ever given to mortal man. The whole story shows the bold, quick, impulsive nature of men who move the world. To think, is to decide ; to decide, is to act ; to act, is to achieve. Without anticipating those striking experiences through which Stan- ley has to pass in the narrative we have before us, suffice it to say that in due time he arrived in Africa. Having started from Zanzibar with an expedition, the formation of which gave him an opportunity to show his perseverance and tact, he began his long search. Difficulties that would have appalled other men at the outset were as nothing to him; obstacles were cast aside as by a faith that moves mountains into the sea. Threatening dangers did not turn him from his lofty purpose. On he went, across plains, down through valleys, through tangled jungles, over -almost impassable rivers, displaying everywhere and always the most wonderful heroism and endurance, until the world was startled at his discovery and will evermore applaud his magnificent achievements. Wild and Barbarous Country. No one who has never explored the wilds of Africa can understand the nature of the undertaking which Stanley had before him. In our land we can travel into almost every section by railways, by stage coaches, or by steamboats. None of these facilities for travelling were to be found in Africa, at least in that part of it that Stanley was to visit. Some of these means of transit could be created, but they were not in existence, and to the explorer was left the double work not merely of conducting the expedition, but also of preparing the way for it. Thrilling tales have been told of the dangers attending all journeys in the Dark Continent. Every book which has been written is alive with these tales of adventure. No work has ever been published on Africa which does not read more like a romance than reality. We look upon the map, we see the location of the various provinces, we trace the great rivers winding their way towards the ocean, and, not understanding the true character of the country, it may seem to us to be a simple thing to pass from one point to another. It is much easier to travel by map than in any other way. When Livingstone went to Africa he could go but a little way inland from the coast without finding his progress barred. While it was left to 32 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Stanley to follow in his track, there was sometimes a difficulty in learning the path which Livingstone had taken, and it was also very difficult for a man unused to African exploration to complete so long a journey without any previous experience. These things render Stanley's final success all the more wonderful, and it is not surprising that all readers become intensely interested in the story of the man and his exploits. Many have been the failures on the part of other explorers, while those who have gone out like Gordon Gumming, merely for the purpose of sport, have learned the dangers which lie in every step of progress through the jungles of Africa. It requires a man of a venturesome spirit, a strong nerve, an indomitable will, and a ready disposition to- make all manner of sacrifices, to do what has been done in modern times toward opening the Tropics to the advance of civilization. It will be seen by the following pages what Stanley has accomplished, and the wonder is that one man should have succeeded not only in finding Livingstone but also in crossing the continent from sea to sea. The manner in which the world has followed the travels of Mr. Stanley would indicate a personal interest in him and his welfare. He becomes better known than most men whom we do not see, and we are compelled to enter heartily into sympathy with his plans, his trials, his victories. This is the mysterious influence which one strong character has over others. We become absorbed in the marvelous story of this man's ad- ventures. We follow him eagerly step by step. We are amazed at each new revelation, and inquire what greater achievement is to follow. Henry M. Stanley is one of the great heroes of modern times. CHAPTER 11. THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. Africa a World of .Surprises and Wonders — ^Journeys of Livingstone — The Young Scotcli Boy — Born of Noble Parentage— An Ancestry of Sturdy Scotch Qualities — David's Factory Life— Eager Thirst for Knowledge — Tending the Loom, with One Eye on His Book — Studying Latin — A Lover of Heroic Deeds — Early Promise of Rising to Distinction — Resolves to Become a Medical Missionary in China — Departure for Africa — Physical Nerve and Endurance — Encounter with a Ferocious Lion — Livingstone's Narrow Escape — Gordon Cumming's Descrip- tion of the Noble Beast — A Powerful Animal — Beauty of the Lion — Roar of the Forest King — Frightful Ferocity — The Lion's Fearlessness — Requirements of Lion Hunters — Brave Character of Livingstone. a WORLD of surprises, of captivating wonders, opens before us as we approach the Continent of Africa. Before relating in detail the great achievements of Stanley, particularly his world-re- nowned achievement of finding Livingstone, it will be interesting to the reader to have some account of the life and travels of the cele- brated explorer whom Stanley sought and found. The journeys of Liv- ingstone have a thrilling interest and are here narrated. David Livingstone was a sturdy Scotchman. There appeared to be somewhat of the granite in him which belongs to the highlands of his native country. His child-life was at Blantyre, by the beautiful Clyde, above Glasgow, in Scotland. He was born there in the year 1813. The humble home entertained some proud traditions, treasured through eight generations of the family. The young David listened with bounding lieart and glowing spirit while his grandfather told the histories and legends of the olden time. Culloden was in the story. His great-grand- father fell there, fighting for the old line of kings ; and " Ulva Dark," the fainily home, had been there. Old Gaelic songs trembled off the lips of his grandmother, beguiling the social hours. There Avas the spirit of heroism in the home. And among the traditions there were those of singular virtue and in- tegrity. He classed the dying precept of a hardy ancestor the proudest distinction of his family ; that precept was, " Be honest." Honesty is a matchless birthright; he claimed it; he was not proud of anything else. His father was a man of " unflinching honesty," and was employed by the proprietors of Blantyre Works, in conveying very large sums of 3 (33) 34 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. money from Glasgow, and by the honorable kindness of the firm his integrity was so rewarded that his declining years were spent where he had lived, in ease and comfort. He was a man who kept the hearts of his children. His kindness and real love were sweeter to them than all that wealth sometimes bestows as its peculiar gift. He brought his DAVID LIVINGSTONE. children up religiously; it was in connection with the Kirk of Scot- land. It is a beautiful tribute of his illustrious son : " My father deserved my lasting gratitude and homage for presenting me from my infancy with a continuously consistent pious example. I revere his memory." The THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. ^35 mother of the man appears briefly, and passes from the public view. She was a quiet, loving, industrious, self-denying, praying mother. God knows how to choose mothers for the chosen men. This mother was the mother of a great and good man. She was a woman who, by her virtue and modesty, and fortitude and courage, could bear a hero and inspire him for his destiny. " An anxious house-wife, striving to make both ends meet," found time and place to exert a true woman's singular and mighty influence upon her little boy. We will not presume to esti- mate the magnitude of that influence. We will not say how much his home had to do with the singular thoughtfulness and distinguished pre- cocity of the child that toiled all day long in the mill with the hundreds who worked there, David Livingstone was only ten years old when he was put into the factory. People ought not to despise little factory-boys. He worked from six in the morning until eight at night ; that makes fourteen hours a day, and a child just ten years of age. There were very good schools at Blantyre ; the teachers were paid one hundred and twenty-five dollars a year. The schools were free to the children of the working people. David had been in one of these schools. He rtiust have been well advanced for his age. The impulse that his mind received in the com- mon school was aided by the attractions of the great University at Glasgow. A liOver of Heroic Deeds. Boys in the neighborhood of great colleges have earlier and loftier aspirations perhaps. Anyhow we are informed that a part of David Livingstone's first week's wages went for " Ruddiman's Rudiments of Latin," and that he pressed the study of that language with peculiar ardor, in an evening school, from eight to ten o'clock, during a number of years. There are many grown men who mourn over their ignorance whose work does not fill fourteen hours a day. In those evening hours, with a little tired child-body, Livingstone mastered the Latin language, and accomplished much in general reading. When he was sixteen years old, he was quite in advance of his age. The diligence and self-control of the boy was the prophecy of the man. At this early age, too, the peculiar tastes and talents which rendered his subsequent life singularly successful and vested his work with singular interest began to appear. He did not love novels : he loved facts. He was not charmed with the woven fancies of effeminacy. ' He delighted in stories of adventure; he was always glad to put his hand in the hand of the historian, and be led away from familiar scenes to the new and the strange and the difficult. 36 /• WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. The hero spirit was in him. This love of the new and eagerness fpr travel were tempered and sanctified by an appreciation of the real and the useful. He had delight in scientific books and experiments. The home of his childhood was admirably adapted for the development of noble character. There was a population of nearly three thousand. The people were "good specimens of the Scottish poor," as he tells us himself, "in honesty, morality and intelligence." There were all sorts of people, of course; they were generally awake to all public questions; their interest was intelligent; there were some characters of uncommon worth; these persons felt peculiar interest in the thoughtful, studious lad. There were near at hand many spots hallowed in Scottish history — spots with venerable associations. The Scottish people love old associations; they treasure the dear memorials of the past. The ancient domains of Bothwell stood with open door to these respected villagers. David Livingstone was one of the people, and loved these scenes; he knew their history, all their old traditions were in his heart. Even the boy $eemed to be more than a boy; the man stood in the background, and was outlined clearly in the character of the youth. Departure for Africa. At this early age David gave sign of rising above his mates, gaining distinction in some honorable calling, and becoming an illustrious exam- ple of self-reliance and energy. When promoted at the age of nineteen to cotton-spinning, he took his books to the factory, and read by placing one of them on a portioij of the spinning-jenny, so that he could catch sentence after sentence as he passed at his work. He was well paid, however, and having determined to prepare himself for becoming a med- ical missionary abroad, was enabled, by working with his hands in summer, to support himself while attending medical and Greek classes in Glasgow in winter, as also the divinity lectures of Dr. Wardlow. He was thus able to pass the required examinations, and was at length ad- mitted a licentiate of the Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons. Having been charged by the Directors of the London Missionary So- ciety to carry on and extend the work of Moffat, Livingstone arrived in Cape Town in the summer of 1840, and, after a short rest, started for the interior by way of Algoa Bay. A journey of seven hundred miles, of which, so far as we have been able to ascertain, no record has been published, brought him to Lattaku, then the furthest missionary station of South Africa. Here he remained only long enough to recruit his oxen before he pressed on northwards to that part of the country inhabited by the section of the Bechuana tribe known as the Bakwains, Having satisfied THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. 3^, himself of the existence of a promising field for missionary effort, he re- turned to the Kuruman station, rested there for three months, and then took up his quarters in the Bakwain countiy itself, at the present Litu- baruba, at that time known as Lepelole. Determ.ined to neglect nothing which could in any way promote his success with the natives, Livingstone now cut himself off from all inter- course with Europeans for six months, devoting himself to acquiring an insight into the habits, ways of thinking, laws, and language of the Bechuanas, and in laying the foundations of a settlement by making a canal for irrigation purposes from a river near by. A Man Stronger Tlian He liOoked. These preliminaries being well advanced, our hero paid a visit to the Bakaa, Bamangwato, and the Makalaka. The greater part of this trip was performed on foot, the draught oxen being ill, and some of the na- tives forming the escort observed in Livingstone's hearing, not knowing that he understood them — " He is not strong; he is quite slim, and only seems stout because he puts himself into those bags [trousers]; he will break down." Stung by these derogatory remarks on his appearance, Livingstone revenged himself by keeping the whole party at highest speed for several days, and was rewarded later by hearing them speak more respectfully of his pedestrian powers. Having, without knowing it, approached to within ten days' journey of Lake N'gami, afterwards discovered by him, our hero went back to Kuruman to bring his luggage to the site of his proposed settlement, but before he could do so, came the disappointing news that the Bakwains, with whom he had become friendly, had been driven from Lepelole by the Baralongs, rendering it impossible for him to carry out his original plan. With the courage and energy which distinguished him from the first, Livingstone at once set about looking for some other site, and after a journey to Bamangwato, to restore to chief Sekomi several of his peo- ple who had come down with him to the Kuruman, and for whose safety he felt responsible, he selected the beautiful valley of Mabotsa, the home of the Makatla branch of the Bechuana tribe, where he removed in 1843. Here the chief difficulty to contend with at first was the number and ferocity of the lions, which not only leaped into the cattle pens of the village of Mabotsa at night, but sometimes attacked the herds in broad daylight. Expeditions sent out against the marauders returned without having achieved any success, and knowing that if but one of the troop of lions were killed the others would take alarm and leave the country, Livingstone determined himself to join a sortie against them. 33 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Great was the consternation of the natives, who firmly believed that a neighboring tribe had given them into the power of these merciless animals. Their attacks upon them were feeble and half-hearted, so that hitherto the lions had come off victors. Livingstone now came to their aid, and the cry was — " Mount ! mount for the hunting ! the lion is near ! The cattle and herdsmen are quaking with fear. Call the dogs ! light the torches ! away to the glen ! If needs be, we'll beard the fierce brute in his den." They discovered their game on a small tree-covered hill. The circle of hunters, at first loosely formed around the spot, gradually closed up, and became compact as they advanced towards it. Mebalwe, a native schoolmaster, who was with Livingstone, seeing one of the lions sitting on a piece of rock within the ring, fired but missed him, the ball striking the rock by the feet of the animal, which, biting first at the spot struck, bounded away, broke through the circle, and escaped, the natives not having the courage to stand close and spear him in the attempt, as they should have done. The circle re-formed, having yet within it two other lions, at which the pieces could not be fired, lest some of the men on the opposite side should be hit. Again there was a bound and a roar, and yet again ; and the natives scattered and fled, while the lions went forth free to continue their devastations. " He is Shot ! He is Shot ! " But they did not seem to have retreated far, for as the party was going round the end of* a hill on their way home to the village, there was one of the lordly brutes sitting quietly, as though he had purposely planted himself there to enjoy their defeat, and wish them " Good-day." It was but a little distance from Livingstone, who, raising his gun, fired both barrels. " He is shot ! He is shot ! " is the joyful cry, and the people are about to rush in ; but their friend warns them, for he sees the tail raised in anger. He is just in the act of ramming down his bullets for another fire, when he hears a shout of terror, and sees the lion in the act of springing on him. He is conscious only of a blow that makes him reel and fall to the ground ; of two glaring eyes, and hot breath upon his face; a momentary anguish, as he is seized by the shoulder and shaken as a rat by a terrier ; then comes a stupor, which was afterwards described as a sort of drowsiness, in which there was no sense of pain nor feeling of terror, although there was a perfect consciousness of all that was happening. Being thus conscious, as one in a trance might be, Livingstone knew 40 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. that the lion had one paw on the back of his head, and, turning round to reheve himself of the pressure, he saw the creature's eyes directed to Mebalwe, who, at a distance of ten or fifteen yards, was aiming his gun at him. It missed fire in both barrels, and immediately the native teacher was attacked by the brute and bitten in the thigh. Another man also, who attempted to spear the lion, was seized by the shoulder ; but then the bullets which he had received took effect, and, with a quiver through all his huge frame, the cattle-lifter rolled over on his side dead. A IfarroTV Escape. All this occurred in a few moments ; the death-blow had been inflicted by Livingstone before the Lion sprang upon him in the blind fury of his dying efforts. No less than eleven of his teeth had penetrated the flesh of his assailant's arm, and crushed the bone ; it was long ere the wound was healed, and all through life the intrepid missionary bore the marks of this deadly encounter, and felt its effects in the injured limb. The tartan jacket which he had on, wiped, as he believed, the virus from the lion's teeth, and so preserved him from much after-suffering, such as was experienced by the others who were bitten and had not this protection. These ferocious beasts are a constant menace to travellers in some parts of Afiica. Of course, if one goes out for the purpose of indulging in sport and shooting game, he is not disconcerted when he meets the king of the forest in his native lairs. Cumming's account of his en- counters with lions is so graphic and interesting that it is here inserted in connection with the thrilling story, already related, of Livingstone and the lion. Mr. Gumming first describes the appearance and habits of the noble beast. This is the account of one of the world's most famous hunters, whose journeys in the Tropics in pursuit of adventure, have attracted universal attention, and have awakened the most eager interest. The dignified and truly monarchical appearance of the lion, says Mr. Gum- ming, has long rendered him famous among his fellow quadrupeds. There is something so noble and imposing in the presence of the lion, when seen walking with dignified self-possession, free and undaunted, on his native soil, that no description can convey an adequate idea of his striking appearance. The lion is exquisitely formed by nature for the predatory habits which he is destined to pursue. Gombining in compara- tively small compass the qualities of power and agility, he is enabled, by means of the tremendous machinery with which nature has gifted him, easily to overcome and destroy almost every beast of the forest, however superior to him in weight and stature. THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. 41 Though considerably under four feet in height, he has little difficulty in dashing to the ground and overcoming the lofty and apparently pow- erful giraffe, whose head towers above the trees of the forest, and whose skin is nearly an inch in thickness. The lion is the constant attendant of the vast herds of buffaloes which frequent the interminable forests of the interior; and a full-grown one, so long as his teeth are unbroken, gener- ally proves a match for an old bull buffalo, which in size and strength greatly surpasses the most powerful breed of American cattle ; the lion also preys on all the larger varieties of the antelopes, and on both varie- LIONS CAPTURING A BUFFALO. ties of the gnoo. The zebra, which is met with in large herds through- out the interior, is also a favorite object of his pursuit. Lions do not refuse, as has been asserted, to feed upon the venison that they have not killed themselves. I have repeatedly discovered lions of all ages which had taken possession of, and were feasting upon, the car- cases of various game quadrupeds which had fallen before my rifle. The lion is very generally diffused throughout the secluded parts of Southern Africa. He is, however, nowhere met with in great abund- ance, it being very rare to find more than three, or even two families of 42 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. lions frequenting the same district and drinking at the same fountain. When a greater number were met with, I remarked that it was owing to long-protracted droughts, which, by drying nearly all the fountains, had compelled the game of various districts to crowd the remaining, springs, and the lions, according to their custom, followed in the wake. Beauty of the Liion. It is a common thing to come upon a full-grown lion and lioness asso- ciating with three or four large ones nearly full grown ; at other times, full-grown males will be found associating and hunting together in a happy state of friendship ; two, three, and four full-grown male lions may thus be discovered consorting together. The male lion is adorned with a long, rank, shaggy mane, v/hich in some instances almost sweeps the ground. The color of these manes varies, some being dark, and others of a golden yellow. This appear- ance has given rise to a prevailing opinion among the Boers that there are two distinct varieties of lions, which they distinguish by the respec- tive names of " Schwart fore life " and " Chiel fore life ; " this idea, how- ever, is erroneous. The color of the lion's mane is generally influenced by his age. He attains his mane in the third year of his existence. I have remarked that at first it is of a yellowish color ; in the prime of life it is blackest, and when he has numbered many years, but still is in the full enjoyment of his power, it assumes a yellowish-gray, pepper-and-salt sort of color. These old fellows are cunning and dangerous, and most to be dreaded. The females are utterly destitute of a mane, being covered with a short, thick, glossy coat of tawny hair. The manes and coats of lions frequent- ing open-lying districts utterly destitute of trees, such as the borders of the great Kalahari desert, are more rank and handsome than those inhab- iting fertile districts. The JRoar of the Forest King. One of the most striking things connected with the lion is his voice, which is extremely grand and peculiarly striking. It consists at times of a low, deep moaning, repeated five or six times, ending in faintly audible sighs ; at other times he startles the forest with loud, deep-toned, solemn roars, repeated five or six times in quick succession, each increasing in loudness to the third or fourth, when his voice dies away in five or six low, muffled sounds, very much resembling distant thunder. At times, and not unfrequently, a troop may be heard roaring in con- cert, one assuming the lead, and two, three, or four more regularly taking up their parts, like persons singing a catch. Like Scottish stags, they THRILLING ADVENTURES IN AFRICA. 43 roar loudest in cold, frosty nights ; but on no occasions are their voices to be heard in such perfection, or so intensely powerful, as when two or three strange troops of lions approach a fountain to drink at the same time. When this occurs, every member of each troop sounds a bold roar of de- fiance at the opposite parties ; and when one roars, all roar together, and each seems to vie with his comrades in the intensity and power of his voice. The power and grandeur of these nocturnal forest concerts is inconceiv- ably striking and pleasing to the hunter's ear. The effect, I may remark, is greatly enhanced when the hearer happens to be situated in the depths of the forest, at the dead hour of midnight, unaccompanied by any attend- ant, and ensconced within twenty yards of the fountain which the sur- rounding troops of lions are approaching. Such has been my situation many scores of times ; and though I am allowed to have a tolerably good taste for music, I consider the catches with which I was then regaled as the sweetest and most natural I ever heard. As a general rule, lions roar during the night ; their sighing moans commencing as the shades of evening envelop the forest, and continuing at intervals throughout the night. In distant and secluded regions, how- ever, I have constantly heard them roaring loudly as late as nine and ten o'clock on a bright sunny morning. In hazy and rainy weather they are to be heard at every hour in the day, but their roar is subdued. Friglitful Ferocity. It often happens that when two strange male lions meet at a fountain a terrific combat ensues, which not unfrequently ends in the death of one of them. The habits of the lion are strictly nocturnal; during the day he lies concealed beneath the shade of some low bushy tree or wide-spread- ing bush, either in the level forest or on the mountain side. He is also partial to lofty reeds, or fields of long, rank yellow grass, such as occur in low-lying vales. From these haunts he sallies forth when the sun goes down, and comitiences his nightly prowl. When he is successful in his beat and has secured his prey, he does not roar much that night, only uttering occasionally a few low moans ; that is, provided no intruders approach him, otherwise the case would be very different. Lions are ever most active, daring and presuming in dark and stormy nights, and consequentlv, on such occasions, the traveler ought more par- ticularly to be on his guard. I remarked a fact connected with the lions' hour of drinking peculiar to themselves : they seemed unwilling to visit the fountains with good moonlight. Thus, when the moon rose early, the lions deferred their hour of watering until late in the morning; and when the moon rose late, they drank at a very early hour in the night. 44 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. By this acute system many a grisly Hon saved his bacon, and is now lux- uriating in the forest of South Africa, which had otherwise fallen by the barrels of my gun. The Lion's Fearlessness. Owing to the tawny color of the coat with which nature has robed him,, he is perfectly invisible in the dark; and although I have often heard them loudly lapping the water under my very nose, not twenty yards from me, I could not possibly make out so much as the outlinesof their forms. When a thirsty lion comes to water he stretches out his massive arms, lies down on his breast to drink, and makes a loud lapping noise in drink- ing not to be mistaken. He continues lapping up the water for a long while, and four or five times during the proceeding he pauses for half a minute as if to take breath. One thing conspicuous about them is their eyes, which, in a dark night, glow like two balls of fire. The female is more fierce and active than the male, as a general rule. Lionesses which have never had young are- much more dangerous than those which have. At no time is the lion so much to be dreaded as when his partner has got small young ones. At that season he knows no fear, and, in the coolest and most intrepid man- ner, he will face a thousand men. A remarkable instance of this kind came under my own observation, which confirmed the reports I had before heard from the natives. One day, when out elephant-hunting in the territory of the Baseleka, accompanied by two hundred and fifty men, I was astonished suddenly to behold a majestic lion slowlj? and steadily advancing towards us with a dignified step and undaunted bearing, the most noble and imposing that can be conceived. Lashing his tail from side to side, and growling haughtily, his terribly expressive eye resolutely fixed upon us, and dis- playing a show of ivory well calculated to inspire terror among the timid Bechuanas, he approached. A Lion Puts to Fligrht 250 Men. A headlong flight of the two hundred and fifty men was the immediate result ; and, in the confusion of the moment, four couples of my dogs, which they had been leading, were allowed to escape in their couples. These instantly faced the lion, who, finding that by his bold bearing he had succeeded in putting his enemies to flight, now became solicitous for the safety of his little family, with which the lioness was retreating in the back-ground. Facing about, he followed after them with a haughty and independent step, growling fiercely at the dogs which trotted along on each side of him. Three, troops of elephants having been discoverec^ 46 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. a few minutes previous to this, upon which I was marching for the attack, I, with the most heartfelt reluctance, reserved my fire. On run- ning down the hill side to endeavor to recall my dogs, I observed, for the first time, the retreating lioness with four cubs. About twenty minutes afterward two noble elephants repaid my forbearance. Among Indian Nimrods, a certain class of royal tigers is dignified with the appellation of " man-eaters." These are tigers which, having once tasted human flesh, show a predilection for the same, and such charac- ters are very naturally famed and dreaded among the natives. Elderly gentlemen of similar tastes and habits are occasionally met with among the lions in the interior of South Africa, and the danger of such neigh- bors may be easily imagined. I account for lions first acquiring this taste in the following manner: some tribes of the far interior do not bury their dead, but unceremoniously carry them forth, and leave them lying exposed in the forest or on the plain, a prey to the lion and hyaena, or the jackal and vulture; and I can readily imagine that a lion, having thus once tasted human flesh, would have little hesitation, when opportunity presented itself, of springing upon and carrying off the unwary traveler or native inhabiting his country. The Man-Eater at Work. Be this as it may, man-eating occurs; and on my fourth hunting expe- dition, a horrible tragedy was acted one dark night in my little lonely ; camp by one of these formidable characters, which deprived me, in the far wilderness, of my most valuable servant. In winding up these observations on the lion, I may remark that lion-hunting, under any circumstances, is decidedly a dangerous pursuit. It may nevertheless be followed, to a certain extent, with comparative safety by those who have naturally a : turn for that sort of thing. A recklessness of death, perfect coolness and self-possession, an acquaintance with the disposition and manners of lions, and a tolerable knowledge of the use of the rifle, are indis- pensable to him who would shine in the overpoweringly exciting pastime of hunting this justly celebrated king of beasts. Livingstone himself narrates minutely his dreadful encounter with a lion. He always regarded it as one of his most thrilling experiences in I Africa, and he had occasion to remember it from the fact that he was . so severely injured. The wonder is that when the ferocious beast had the great explorer in his power and might easily have taken his life, he should have been prevented from doing it. A few moments more and the life of one of the world's greatest heroes would have been terminated. CHAPTER III. LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. Livingstone's Life Among the Backwains — An Intelligent Chief — Trying to Whip* the Heathen into Conversion — Appearance of the Backwains — Peculiar Head- Dress— Expert Thieves — A Bewitched Kettle — A Horrible Deed — An African Congress — Thrilling War Songs — Carrying on War for Glory — Livingstone's Interest in this Tribe — Singular Superstitions — Medicine Men and Rain Doctors — Barbarous Practices — Severe Training for Boys — The Girls' Ordeal — Romantic Dances — Construction of Houses — Curious Burial Customs — Funeral Dances Among the Latookas — An Active Chief — The Rich No Better Than the Poor — Odd Decorations — Graceful Movements. (|^^0R years Livingtone labored among the Backwains, at Chonuane,, '¥t whose chief was a man of great intelligence, but who had some amusing ideas and ways. When he embraced Christianity he wanted to make his subjects converts by thrashing them with whips of rhinoceros hide. Livingstone could not approve of this new mode of conversion, and the chief was persuaded to pursue a milder course. As Livingstone labored for years among the Backwains, or Bechuanas,^ a full account of the manners, customs, and singular character of this tribe will be of interest to the reader. In appearance they are a fine race of men, in some respects similar to the Kaffirs, with whom they have many customs in common. Their dress is not very remarkable, except that they are perhaps the best dress- ers of skins that are to be found in Africa, the pliancy of the skin and the neatness of the sewing being unrivalled. They are good workers in metal, and supply many of the surrounding tribes both with ornaments and weapons. As to dress, the Bechuanas, as a rule, use more covering than many of the surrounding tribes. The women especially wear several aprons. The first is made of thongs, like those of the Kaffirs, and over that is generally one of skin. As she can afford it she adds others, but always contrives to have the outside apron decorated with beads or other adorn- ments. This series of aprons, however, is all that a Bechuana woman considers necessary in the way of dress, the kaross, or outside garment, being adopted merely as a defence against the weather, and not from any idea that covering to the body is needed for the purpose of delicacy. In (47) 48 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. figure they are not so prepossessing as many of the surrounding tribes, 'being usually short, stout, and clumsy, which latter defect is rendered still more conspicuous by the quantities of beads which they hang in heavy coils around their waists and necks, and the multitude of metal rings with which they load their arms and ankles. They even load their hair as much as possible, drawing it out into a series of little spokes, and dressing them so copiously with grease and sibila, that at a few yards they look as if their heads were covered with a cap composed of metallic prongs, and at a greater distance as if they were wearing bands of polished steel on their heads. They consider a plentiful smearing of grease and red ochre to be the very acme of a fashionable toilet, and think that washing the body is a disgusting custom. Women are the smokers of the tribe, the men preferring snuff, and rather despis- ing the pipe as a woman's imple- ment. The Bechuanas can hardly be selected as examples of good moral character. No one who knows them can believe a word they say, and they will steal everything that they can carry. They are singu- larly accomplished thieves, and the habit of stealing is so ingrained in their nature, that if a man is de- tected in the veiy act he feels not the least shame, but rather takes blame to himself for being so inexpert as to be found out. Small articles they steal in the most ingenious manner. Should it be hang- ing up, they contrive to handle it carelessly and let it fall on the ground, and then they begin active operations. Standing near the coveted article, and trying to look as if they were not aware of its existence, they quietly scrape a hole in the sand with one of their feet, push the object of their desire into the hole, cover it up again with sand, and smooth the surface so as to leave no trace that the ground has been disturbed. They steal each other's goods, whenever they can find an opportunity, but they are only too glad to find an opportunity of exercising their art on a white man, whose property is sure to be worth stealing. A travel- ler in their country has therefore a hard life, for he knows that there is PECULIAR HEAD-DRESS. LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. 49 aiot a single article in his possession which will not vanish if he leaves it unguarded for a few minutes. Indeed, as Mr. Baines well observes, there is not an honest nerve or fibre in a Bechuana's body ; from the root of his tongue to the tips of his toes, every muscle is thoroughly trained in the art of thieving. If they merely sit near an article of moderate size, when they move off it moves with them, in a manner that no wearer of trousers can conceive. Even Mr. Moffatt, who had a singular capacity for discovering good qualities which had lain latent and unsuspected, writes in very forcible terms respecting the utter dishonesty of the Bechuanas. Stealing Cattle by Mght. Some mornings, says Mr. Moffatt, we had to record thefts committed in the course of twenty-four hours, in our houses, our smith-shop, our garden, and among our cattle in the field. These they have more than once driven into a bog or mire, at a late hour informing us of the acci- dent, as they termed it ; and, as it was then too dark to render assistance^ one or more would fall a prey to the hyaenas or hungry natives. One night they entered our cattle-fold, killed one of our best draught oxen, and carried the whole away, except one shoulder. We were compelled to use much meat, from the great scarcity of grain and vegetables; our sheep we had to purchase at a distance, and very thankful might we be if out of twenty we secured the largest half for ourselves. They would break their legs, cut off their tails, and more frequently carry off the whole carcass. Tools, such as saws, axes, and adzes, were losses severely felt, as we could not at that time replace them, when there was no intercourse what- ever with the colony. Some of our tools and utensils which they stole, on finding the metal not what they expected, they would bring back beaten into all shapes, and offer them in exchange for some other article of value. Knives were always eagerly coveted ; our metal spoons they melted; and when we were supplied with plated iron ones, which they found not so pliable, they supposed them bewitched. Very often, when ■employed working at a distance from the house, if there was no one in whom he could confide, the missionary would be compelled to carry them all to the place where he went to seek a draught of water, well know- ing that if they were left they would take wings before he could return. An Iron Kettle Be\vitclied. The following ludicrous circumstance once happened, and was related to the writer by a native in graphic style. Two men had succeeded in -Stealing an iron pot Having just taken it from the fire, it was rather 4 50 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. warm for handing conveniently over a fence, and by doing so it fell on a stone, and was cracked. '• It is iron," said they, and off they went witk their booty, resolving to make the best of it ; that is, if it would not serve for cooking, they would transform it into knives and spears. After some time had elapsed, and the hue and cry about the missing pot had nearly died away, it was brought forth to a native smith, who had laid in a stock of charcoal for the occasion. The pot was further broken to make it more convenient to lay hold of with the tongs, which are gener- ally made of the bark of a tree. The native Vulcan, unacquainted with cast iron, having with his small bellows, one in each hand, produced a good heat, drew a piece from the fire. To his utter amazement, it flew into pieces at the first stroke of his little hammer. Another and another piece was brought under the action of the fire, and then under the hammer, with no better success. Both the thief and the smith, gazing- with eyes and mouth dilated on the fragments of iron scattered round the stone anvil, declared their belief that the pot was bewitched, and concluded pot-stealing to be a bad speculation. Expert Thieves. To the thieving. propensities of these people there was no end. They would peep into the rude hut that was used for a church, in order to see who was preaching, and would then go off to the preacher's house, and rob it at their ease. When the missionaries, at the expense of great labor, made a series of irrigating canals, for the purpose of watering their gardens, the women woulc^ slyly cut the banks of the channels, and divert the water. They even broke down the dam which led the water from the river, merely for the sake of depriving somebody of something ; and when, in spite of all their drawbacks, some vegetables had been grown, the crops were stolen, even though a constant watch was kept over them. These accomplished thieves have even been known to steal meat out of the pot in which it was being boiled, having also the insolence to substitute a stone for the pilfered meat. One traveller found that all his followers were so continually robbed by the Bechuanas, that at last he ceased from endeavoring to discover the thieves, and threatened instead to punish any man who allowed an article to be stolen from him. They do not even spare their own chief, and would rob him with as little compunction as if he were a foreigner. There was need among such people of more than one Livingstone to teach them the virtue of honesty. Dr. Lichtenstein, who certainly had a better opmion of the Bechuanas than they deserved, was once cheated by them in a very ingenious LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. 51 manner. He had purchased three ivory rings with some tobacco, but when he left the place he found that the same ring had been sold to him three successive times, the natives behind him having picked his pockets with the dexterity of a London thief, and then passed the ring to their companions to be again offered for sale. Altogether, the character of the Bechuanas does not seem to be an agreeable one, and even the missionaries who have gone among them, and naturally are inclined to look on the best side of their wild flocks, have very little to say in their favor, and plenty to say against them. They seem to be as heartless toward the infirm and aged as the Nama- quas, and if one of their number is ill or wounded, so that he cannot wait upon himself, he is carried outside the camp, and there left until he recovers or dies. A small and frail hut is built for him, a portion of food is given to him daily, and in the evening a fire is made, and fuel placed near so that it may be kept up. On one occasion the son of a chief was wounded by a buffalo, and, according to ancient custom, was taken out of the camp. The fire happened to go out, and in consequence a lion came and carried off the wounded man in the night. It was once thought that this cruel custom arose from the fear of infection, but this is evi- dently not the case, as persons afflicted with infectious diseases are not disturbed as long as they can help themselves. Superstition may prob- ably be the true reason for it. A Horrible Deed. They have but little regard for human life, especially that of a woman, and a husband may kill his wife if he likes, without any particular notice being taken of it. One traveller mentions that a husband became angry with his wife about some trifling matter, seized his assagai, and killed her on the spot. The body was dragged out by the heels, and thrown into the bush to be devoured by the hysenas, and there was an end of the whole business. The traveller, being horrified by such an action, laid an information before the chief, and was only laughed at for his pains, the chief thinking that for anyone to be shocked at so ordinary an occur- rence was a very good joke. Still, the Bechuana has his redeeming qualities. They are not quar- relsome, and Burchell remarks that, during all the time which he spent among them, he never saw two men openly quarrelling, nor any public breach of decorum. They are persevering and industrious in the arts of peace, and, as has been seen, learn to work in iron and to carve wood with a skill that can only be attained by long and careful practice. They are more attached to the soil than many of the neighboring tribes, culti- 62 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. : vating it carefully, and in this art far surpassing the Kaffirs. Their houses, too, are of elaborate construction, and built with a care and so- lidity which show that the inhabitants are not nomads, but residents on one spot. The government of the Bechuanas is primarily monarchical, but not entirely despotic. The king has his own way in most matters, but his chiefs can always exercise a check upon him by summoning a parliament, or " Picho," as it is called. The Picho affords a truly wild and pictur- esque spectacle. The warriors, in their full panoply of war, seat them- selves in a circle, in the midst of which is the chair of the king. The various speakers take their turns at addressing the assembly, and speak with the greatest freedom, not even sparing the king himself, but pub- licly arraigning him for any shortcomings, real or fancied, and sometimes gaining their point. As to the king himself, he generally opens the par- liament with a few sentences, and then remains silent until all the speeches have been delivered. He then answers those that have been made against himself, and becomes greatly excited, leaping about the ring, brandishing his spear and shield, and lashing himself into an almost frantic state. This is the usual procedure among savages, and the more excited a man becomes, the better he is supposed to speak afterward. An African Congress. An extract from Mr. Moffatt's account of a Picho will give a good idea of the proceedings: Although the whole exhibits a veiy grotesque scene, ^ business is carried on v^ih the most perfect order. There is but little cheering, and still less hissing, while every speaker fearlessly states his own sentiments. The audience is seated on the ground, each man having before him his war-club. Many were adorned with tiger-skins and tails, and had plumes of feathers waving on their heads. In the centre a suffi- cient space was left for the privileged — those who had killed an enemy in battle — to dance and sing, in which they exhibited the most violent and fantastic gestures conceivable, which drew forth from the spectators the most clamorous applause. When they retire to their seats, the speaker commences by command- ing silence. " Be silent, ye Batlapis, be silent, ye Barolongs," addressing each tribe distinctly, not excepting the white people, if any happen to be present, and to which each responds with a groan. He then takes from his shield a spear, and points it in the direction in which the enemy is advancing, imprecating a curse upon them, and thus declaring war by re- peatedly thrusting his spear in that direction, as if plunging it into an enemy. This receives a loud whistling sound of applause. He next (53) 54 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. directs his spear toward the Bushman country, south and southwest, imprecating also a curse on those " ox-eaters," as they are called. The king, on this, as on all similar occasions, introduced the business of the day by " Ye sons of Molchabanque " — viewing all the influential men present as the friends or allies of his kingdom, which rose to more than its former eminence under the reign of that monarch, his father — " the Mantatees are a strong and victorious people ; they have over- whelmed many nations, and they are approaching to destroy us. We have been apprised of their manners, their deeds, their weapons, and their intentions ! We cannot stand against the Mantatees ; we must now concert, conclude, and be determined to stand. Tlirilling War-Song^s. " The case is a great one. I now wait to hear what the general opinion is. Let every one speak his mind, and then I shall speak again." Mothibi manoeuvred his spear as at the commencement, and then pointing it toward heaven, the audience shouted "Pula" (rain), on which he sat down amidst a din of applause. Between each speaker a part or verse of a war-song is sung, the same antics are then performed, and again universal silence is commanded. When several speakers had delivered their sentiments, chiefly exhort- ing to unanimity and courage, Mothibi resumed his central position, and after the usual gesticulations, commanded silence. Having noticed some remarks of the preceding speakers, he added : " It is evident that the best plan is to proceed against the enemy, that they come no nearer. Let not our towns be the seat of war ; let not our houses be the scenes of blood- shed and destruction. No ! let the blood of the enemy be spilt at a dis- tance from our wives and children." Turning to the aged chief, he said : "I hear you, my father; I understand you, my father; your words are true, they are good for the ear ; it is good that we be instructed by the Makooas ; I wish those evil who will not obey ; I wish that they may be broken into pieces." Then addressing the warriors, " There are many of you who do not deserve to eat out of a bowl, but only out of a broken pot ; think on what has been said, and obey without murmuring. I command you, ye chiefs of the Batlapis, Batlares, Bamairis, Barolongs, and Bakotus, that you acquaint all your tribes of the proceedings of this day ; let none be ignorant; I say again, ye warriors, prepare for the battle; let your shields be strong, your quivers full of arrows, and your battle-axes as sharp as hunger. Be silent, ye kidney-eaters " (addressing the old men), " ye are of no further use but to hang about for kidneys when LIVINGSTONE AMONG SAVAGES. 55 •an ox is slaughtered. If your oxen are taken, where will you get any more?" This was the chief's spirited address to the men. Eloquent Appeal to Womeii. Turning to the women he said, " Prevent not the warrior from going out to battle by your cunning insinuations. No, rouse the warrior to glory, and he will return with honorable scars, fresh marks of valor will cover his thighs, and we shall then renew the war-song and dance, and relate the story of our conquest." At the conclusion of this speech the air was rent with acclamations, the whole assembly occasionally joining in the dance; the women frequently taking the weapons from the bands of the men and brandishing them in the most violent manner, people of all ages using the most extravagant and frantic gestures for nearly two hours. In explanation of the strange word, "kidney-eaters," the reader must be made aware that kidneys are eaten only by the old of both sexes. Young people will not touch them on any account, from the superstitious idea that they can have no children if they do so. The word of applause, "pula," or rain, is used metaphorically to signify that the words of the speaker are to the hearers like rain on a thirsty soil. In the last few lines of the king's speech, mention is made of the "honorable scars upon the thighs." He is here alluding to a curious practice among the Bechuanas. After a battle, those who have killed an enemy assemble by night, and, after exhibiting the trophies of their prowess, each goes to the prophet or priest, who takes a sharp assagai and makes a long cut from the hip to the knee. One of these cuts is made for each enemy that has been slain, and some distinguished war- riors have their legs absolutely striped with scars. The Order of tlie Scar. As the wound is a tolerably deep one, and as ashes are plentifully rubbed 'into it, the scar remains for life, and is more conspicuous than it would be in an American, leaving a white track upon the dark skin. In spite of the severity of the wound, all of the successful warriors join in a dance, which is kept up all night, and only terminates at sunrise. < No one is allowed to make the cut for himself, and anyone who did so would at once be detected by the jealous eyes of his companions. Moreover, in order to substantiate his claim, each warrior is obliged to produce his trophy — a small piece of flesh with the skin attached, cut from the body of his foe. When the ceremony of investiture with the Order of the Scar takes place, a large fire is made, inside which no one may pass except the priest and those who can show a trophy. On the outside of the fence are con- §6 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. gregated the women and all the men who have not been fortunate enough to distinguish themselves. One by one the warriors advance to the priest, show the trophy, have it approved, and then take their place round the fire. Each man then lays the trophy on the glowing coals, and, when it is thoroughly roasted, eats it. This custom arises from a notion that the courage of the slain warrior then passes into the body of the man who killed him, and aids also in making him invulnerable. The Bechuanas do not like this custom, but, on the contrary, view it with nearly as much abhorrence as Europeans can do, only yielding to it from a desire not to controvert the ancient custom of their nation. Butchery for Glory. It may well be imagined that this ceremony incites the warriors, both old and young, to distinguish themselves in battle, in order that they may have the right of entering the sacred fence, and be publicly invested with the honorable scar of valor. On one such occasion, a man who was well known for his courage could not succeed in killing any of the enemy, because their numbers were so comparatively small that all had been killed before he could reach them. At night he was almost beside him- self with anger and mortification, and positively wept with rage at being excluded from the sacred enclosure. At last he sprang away from the place, ran at full speed to his house, killed one of his own servants, and returned to the spot, bringing with him the requisite passport of admit- tance. In this act he was held to be perfectly justified, because the slain man was a captive taken in war, and therefore, according to Bechuanan ^ ideas, his life belonged to' his master, and could be taken whenever it might be more useful to him than the living slave. In war, the Bechuanas are but cruel enemies, killing the wounded with- out mercy, and even butchering the inoffensive women and children. The desire to possess the coveted trophy of success is probably the cause of their ruthlessness. In some divisions of the Bechuana tribes, such as the Bachapins, the successful warriors do not eat the trophy, but dry it and hang it round their necks, eating instead a portion of the liver of the slain man. In all cases, however, it seems that some part of the enemy has to be eaten. The weapons used in war are not at all like those which are employed by the Kaffirs. The Bechuanan shield is much smaller than that of the Kaffirs. The assagai is not intended to be used as a missile, but as a weapon for hand-to-hand combat. Indeed, the amount of labor which is bestowed upon it renders it too valuable to be flung at an enemy, who might avoid the blow, and then seize the spear and keep it. WARRIOR WITH SPEARS AND SHIELD. (57> 58 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. The Bechuanas have one weapon which is very effective at close quar- ters. This is the battle-axe. Various as are the shapes of the heads, they are all made on one principle, and, in fact, an axe is nothing more than an enlarged spearhead fixed transversely on the handle. The ordi- nary battle-axes have their heads fastened to wooden handles, but the best examples have the handles made of rhinoceros horn. Dr. Livingstone was greatly interested in these barbarous people. He studied their customs, their domestic life, their warfare, their traditions, their very thoughts. By a long residence among them he became thor- oughly acquainted with everything of interest pertaining to them. The wild life of Africa did not daunt our renowned explorer; he had gone to the Dark Continent knowing how dark it was. To Livingstone belongs the credit of carrying the light of knowledge and religion to this remark- able people. Strange Superstitions. Of religion the Bechuanans knew nothing, though they have plenty of -superstition, and are as utter slaves to their witch doctors as can well be conceived. The life of one of these personages is full of danger. He practises his ar^^s with the full knowledge that if he should fail, death is nearly certain fo be the result. Indeed, it is very seldom that a witch doctor, especially if he should happen to be also a rain-maker, dies a natural death- he generally falling a victim to the clubs of his quondam followers. These men evidently practice the art of conjuring, as we understand the word; and they can perTform their tricks with great dexterity. One of thesi^ men exhibited several of his performances to Mr. Baines, the well-known traveller, and displayed no small ingenuity in the magic art. Hie first trick was to empty, or to appear to empty, a skin bag and an old hat, and then to shake the bag over the hat, when a piece of meat or hide fell from the former into the latter. Another performance was to tie up a bead necklace in a wisp of grass, and hand it to one of the white spectators to burn. He then passed the bag to the most incredu- lous of the spectators, allowed him to feel it and prove that it was empty, while the hat was being examined by Mr. Baines and a friend. Calling out to the holder of the bag, he pretended to throw something through the air, and, when the bag was duly shaken, out fell the beads into the 'hat. This was really a clever trick, and, though any reader who has some practical acquaintance with the art of legerdemain can see how it was ive excitement of the brain. But here, gray-headed men joined in the A CELEBRATED AFRICAN TRIBE. 97 performance with as much zest as others whose youth might be an excuse for making the perspiration start off their bodies with the exertion. Motebe asked what I thought of the Makololo dance. I rephed, * It is very hard work, and brings but small profit' ' It is,' he replied ; ' but it is very nice, and the Sekeletu will give us an ox for dancing for him.' He usually does slaughter an ox for the dancers when the work is over. " The women stand by, clapping their hands, and occasionally one ad- vances within the circle, composed of a hundred men, makes a few move- ments, and then retires. As I never tried it, and am unable to enter into the spirit of the thing, I cannot recommend the Makololo polka to the dancing world, but I have the authority of no less a person than Motebe, Sekeletu's father-in-law, for saying that it is very nice." Many of the Makololo are inveterate smokers, preferring hemp even to tobacco, because it is more intoxicating. They delight in smoking them- selves into a positive frenzy, which passes away in a rapid stream of un- meaning words, or short sentences, as, "The green grass grows," "The ifat cattle thrive," " The fishes swim." No one in the group pays the slightest attention to the vehement eloquence, or the sage or silly utter- ances of the oracle, who stops abruptly, and, the instant common sense returns, looks foolish. They smoke the hemp through water, using a koodoo horn for their pipe, much in the way that the Damaras and other tribes use it. Over-indulgence in this luxury has a very prejudicial effect on the 'health, producing an eruption over the whole body that is quite unmis- takable. In consequence of this effect, the men prohibit their wives from using the hemp, but the result of the prohibition seems only to be that the women smoke secretly instead of openly, and are afterward discovered by the appearance of the skin. It is the more fascinating, because its use im- parts a spurious strength to the body, while it enervates the mind to such a degree that the user is incapable of perceiving the state in which he is gradually sinking, or of exercising sufficient self-control to abandon -or even modify the destructive habit. Sekeletu was a complete victim of the hemp-pipe, and there is no doubt that the illness, something like the dreaded " craw-craw " of Western Africa, was aggravated, if not caused^ by over-indulgence in smoking hemp. CHAPTER V. PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS. Remarkable Successes of Livingstone — Forming a Station in the Wilderness — The Explorer Builds a House — Search for a Great Lake— A Desert with Prodigious Herds of Wild Animals— Starling on a Perilous Journey — Wagons Left in Charge of Natives — Travelling in Frail Canoes — Haunts of the Hippopotami— Thrilling Adventure with Crocodiles — Frantic Struggles to Escape from Death — Shooting- the Huge Monster — Seized with a Sudden Horror— A Great Splash and a Cry of Joy — Ancient Crocodiles with Immense Jaws — Exciting Encounter with a River-Horse — A Remarkable Chief — Rivers and Swamps Breeding Fevers — Reaching the Banks of the Zambesi — Prevalence of a Troublesome Fly — A Magnificent River — Livingstone's Journey of a Thousand Miles with his Family — Malicious Attack by the Dutch Boers — Livingstone's House Plundered — The Explorer Reaches* the Capital of the Makololo — Cordial Welcome from the Natives — The Young King Has a Rival — Ascending the Great River Zambesi- Attempt on the Life of the King — Makololo Architecture — A Grand Dance — Expedition to the West — The Balonda Country — A Visit to Shinti— Scarcity of Food — Arrival at Loanda — Attacked by Savages— On the Leeba — Arrival at Linyanti. 'AVING given a full description of the curious customs and re- markable character of the tribes among whom Livingstone spent many years, we are now prepared to take up the thread of the narrative and follow him through his various fortunes, his trials and his remarka^Dle successes. The chief of the Bakwains, Sechele, renounced his heathenism, became a much better man than he had been before, restored his wives to their fathers, and lived in every respect a thoroughly consistent life. The Dutch Boers, who had pushed forward to the confines of the country, proved, however, most adverse to the success of the mission by carrying off the natives and compelling them to labor as slaves. By advice Sechele and his people moved to Kolobeng, a stream about, two hundred miles north of Kuruman, where Dr. Livingstone formed a station. He here built a house with his own hands, having learned carpentering and gardening from Mr. Moffatt, as also blacksmith work. He had now become handy at almost any trade, in addition to doctoring and preach- ing, and, as his wife could make candles, soap, and clothes, they possessed what might be considered the indispensable accomplishments of a missionary family in Central Africa. (98) PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS. 99 Among the gentlemen who had visited the station was Mr. Oswell, in the East India Company's service. He deserves to take rank as an Af- rican traveller. Hearing that Dr. Livingstone purposed crossing the Kalahara Desert in search of the great Lake N'gami; long known to exist, he came from India on purpose to join him, accompanied by Mr. Murray, volunteering to pay the entire expenses of the guides. The Kalahara, though called a desert from being composed of soft sand and being destitute of water, supports prodigious herds of antelopes, while numbers of elephants, rhinoceros, lions, hyaenas, and other wild animals roam over it. They find support from the astonishing quantity of grass which grows in the region, as also from a species of watermelon, and from several tuberous roots, the most curious of which is as large as the head of a young child, and filled with a fluid like that of a turnip. Another is an herbaceous creeper, the tubers of which, as large as a man's head, it deposits in a circle of a yard or more horizontally from the stem. On the watermelons especially, the elephants and other wild animals revel luxuriously. Starting- on a Hazardous Journey. Such was the desert Livingstone and his party proposed to cross when they set out with their wagon on the first of June, 1849, from Kolobeng. Instead, however, of taking a direct course across it, they determined to take a more circuitous route, which, though longer, they hoped would prove safer. Continuing on, they traversed three hundred miles of desert, when, at the end of a month, they reached the banks of the Zouga, a large river, richly fringed with fruit-bearing and other trees, many of them of gigantic growth, running north-east towards Lake N'gami. They received a cordial welcome from the peace-loving inhabitants of its banks, the ■Bayeiye. Leaving the wagons in charge of the natives, with the exception of a small one which proceeded along the bank, Livingstone embarked in one of their canoes. Frail as are the canoes of the natives, they make long trips in them, and manage them with great skill, often standing up and paddling with long light poles. They thus daringly attack the hippo- potami in their haunts, or pursue the swift antelope which ventures to swim across the river. After voyaging on the stream for twelve days, they reached the broad expanse of Lake N'gami. Though wide, it is excessively shallow, and brackish during the rainy season. They here heard of the Tamunacle and other large rivers flowing into the lake. Livingstone's main object in coming was to visit Sebituane, the great 100 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. chief of the Makololo, who hve about two hundred miles to the north- ward. The chief of the district, Sechulatebe, refused, however, either to give them goods or to allow them to cross the river. Having in vain attempted to form a raft to ferry over the wagon, they were reluctantly compelled to abandon their design. ■ The doctor had been working at the raft in the river, not aware of the number of crocociles which swarmed around him, and had reason to be thankful that he escaped their jaws. These creatures are the foes of the traveller, and even the natives entertain for them a peculiar dread. Once in their ferocious jaws all hope is gone. Livingstone had many narrow escapes from the crocodiles which infest many of the rivers of Africa. A graphic account from the writings of a traveller in Africa shows the dangers sometimes met with by Trop- ical explorers. The account is as follows Suddenly the scene became startling. I heard an exclamation of hor- ror from the natives, who, with eyes starting from their sockets, pointed eastward toward the nearer tree clumps. " What is it ? " said I, straining my eyes in the same direction, but in vain. " Crocodiles ! Crocodiles ! " I repeated the word mechanically, my heart sinking within me as I, too, began to distinguish the black points which indicated to the natives' quick eyes the approaching enemy. Face to Face witli tlie Monsters. ;" Are you sure ? " I wihispered hoarsely, the cold sweat pouring off my forehead. "Yes, Sahib, certain; there are four of them." I had only six explosive-ball cartridges, and, in spite of their terrible effectiveness, I could but remember that the crocodile in the water is well-nigh invulnerable, with only his armor-plated back exposed. How- ever, the terrible foe was still some way off, and I should not myself have detected them but for the natives' quick instinct. There was nothing left us but to try, at any cost, to reach the nearest of the tree islands, avoid- ing by guess the bottomless mud-holes that beset the path. The unfortunate native who was responsible for our position headed the line again, sounding to right and left, as he advanced, with his spear. It is impossible to describe this adventure — marching through the water, pursued by crocodiles, not daring to put down one's foot until assured by sounding that it would reach something solid. Although the island grew perceptibly nearer, our hungry neighbors did too, and at an increasing pace. Still we were distancing them — for over many of the shoals they (101) 102 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. could not swim, and wading, for a crocodile, is a slow process — when, without warning, and as quick as lightning, we felt the ground sink beneath our feet, and we were all four precipitated simultaneously into the swamp. Instinctively, my attendant and I raised our weapons and am- munition high over our heads, for when we touched bottom — that is, a fairly solid layer of vegetable matter — the water reached our arm-pits. " We might as well give up," said I, in despair ; " this time we are lost ! " " Oh, don't give up yet. Sahib. We are so low that, with this head wind, the crocodiles cannot see us and will perhaps be unable to find us at all. Let us cover our heads with these marsh grasses and leaves and 'lie low.'" Struggling- for Dear Liife. His advice was so evidently good that instead of a vain attempt to reach the firm land with its inevitable exposure to the hungry eyes of our terrible pursuers, we acquiesced at once. After several minutes of suspense, the native raised himself slightly on a hummock, and glanced cautiously toward the spot where we had last seen them. His face cleared at once, and he cheered us with — " They have lost us, and have separated to search for us. Three are going almost directly from this place, and one only knows enough to keep on in the first course." " And he is headed for us ? " "In a straight line !" "Then do not lose sight of him for an instant. With one enemy we may be able to cope, and then there is a chance that he may lose the scent." When I asked him again where the animal was — for I dared not raise my own head to look — he replied that he was still coming straight toward us, and I saw that a meeting was inevitable and made my preparations accordingly. I took my rifle and loaded it with an explosive ball. "Now then," said I, "listen to my instructions. The native says the crocodile is sure to find us. I shall let him get within ten yards of us, and then I shall fire at whatever vulnerable part I can — his eye or his belly. Of course I may miss him, or the bullet may glance off his back without wounding him." The black's eyes rolled with horror. " Then, without an instant's hesitation and yet without haste, you, who must stand just behind me, must take my rifle and hand me my other gun for a second shot. Do you understand ? " " Perfectly." THE FAMOUS ANTEDILUVIAN CROCODILE. (103) 104 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. "And I can depend on you?" "Till death.'' "We will try to make it less bad than that, and your courage shall meet, its reward." "A Shudder of Horror Kan through Me." I knew what he said was true, for the fellow had been devoted to me ever since I saved his life in the jungle when the gorilla grappled him, and I felt I could rely upon him. Raising myself as high as I could, I took a good look at the slowly approaching monster, and, I confess, a shudder of horror ran through me at his immense size. He was farther off than I expected, and evidently quite unconscious of our neighborhood, into which he had come by chance, following the raised path on which Ave ourselves had been travelling when the tide overtook us. I immediately changed my plan of attack. I ordered my attendant to wade off to the left so that the smoke from his gun should not blow across me, and told him to fire at the crocodile and try to wound him, if only slightly. As this would make the latter raise his head and look round, I hoped to get a shot at some vulnerable spot, and land an explosive ball where it would do most good. I had hardly taken up my position, with rifle lifted, when my attendant's gun cracked sharp and clear, and I saw blood fly from the eye of the crocodile, whose advance ceased immediately. I could scarcely restrain a cry of joy, but catching sight of a yellow piece of neck, I fired at it and slfut my eyes. A great splash and the shouts of triumph of the natives encouraged me to open them, and I found the suc- cess of the shot greater than I had hoped. A Hard Death. [ The crocodile lay on his side on a little island with his neck blowti open the entire length of the jaw, while the natives who made a break for land without regard to me, capered round him. I called them, and »the)r helped me on shore to where the animal lay in his last agony — for these brutes die as hard as a snake. He was a very large specimen, with a head twice as long as it was broad, his eyes set close together above his long snout, of which only the under jaw was movable. His front feet had five toes armed with claws, and his hind feet but four, and webbed to allow him to swim easily. His whole body was shingled with plates of a shell-like membrane that made him a fine coat of mail nearly bullet- proof. Green on the back, his color gradually shaded off into yellow^ and he was a terrible foe to meet in the water, where we should not have- come off so well had not our good luck stood by us just as it did. ■" iTTfflmflfflflTrtrTlTTff!^^ PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATION. 105 I was duly thankful to regain the bank, which I had never expected to touch again, and had not the heart to blame the native who was respon- sible for our narrow escape; but I resolved to place less reliance on the natives in future. Ancient Crocodiles. It is interesting to see what changes take place in the Animal Kingdom with the lapse of ages. For instance, the early crocodile, the great monster that lived thousands of years ago had larger jaws, more terrible teeth, and a fiercer look than the crocodile of to-day. We present a striking illustration of this ancient monster reproduced from his remains which have been found. Returning to Livingstone, the season being far advanced, they deter- mined to return to Kolobeng, Mr. Oswell generously volunteering to go^ down to the Cape and bring up a boat for next season. Half the royal premium for the encouragement of geographical science and discoveries was awarded by the council of the Royal Geographical Society to Dr. Livingstone for the discoveries he made on this journey. Sechele, the Christian chief of the Bakwains, who was eager to assist him in reaching Sebituane, offered his services, and with him as a guide,, accompanied by Mrs. Livingstone and their three children, he set out, in April, 1850, taking a more easterly course than before. They again reached the lake, but the greater number of the party being at- tacked by fever, he was compelled to abandon his design of visiting Sebituane. He here heard of the death of a young artist, Mr. Rider who had shortly before visited the lake for the purpose of making sketches. Hunting- tlie Hippotamus. The natives inhabiting the banks of the rivers falling into Lake N'gami are famed for their skill in hunting the hippopotamus. In perfect silence they approach in their light canoes, and plunge their sharp spears, with thongs attached, into the back of one of the huge creatures, which dashes down the stream, towing the canoe at a rapid rate. Thus the animal con^ tinues its course, the hunters holding on to the rope, till its strength is ex- hausted when, other canoes coming up, it is speared to death. Frequently, however, the hippopotamus turns on its assailants, bites the canoe in two, and seizes one of them in its powerful jaws. When they can manage to do so, they tow it into shallow water, and carrying the line oh shore, secure it to a tree, while they attack the infuriated animal with their spears, till, sinking exhausted with its efforts, it becomes theif prey./ , ' Mr. Oswell. who had arrived too latefor the journey, spent the remain-^ 106 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. der of the season in hunting elephants, Hberally presenting Dr. Living- stone with the proceeds of his sport,, for the outfit of his children. The third journey was commenced in the spring of 185 1, when, rejoined by Mr. Oswell, he set out once more, accompanied by Mrs. Livingstone and their children. First travelling north, and then to the north-east, through a region covered with baobab-trees, abounding with springs, and inhabited by Bushmen, they entered an arid and difficult country. Here, the supply of water became exhausted, great anxiety was felt for the children, who suffered greatly from thirst. At length a small stream, the Mababe, was reached, running into a marsh, across which they had to make their way. During the night they traversed a region infested by the tsetse, a fly not much larger than the common house-fly, the bite of which destroys cattle and horses. A Terrible Pest. It is remarkable that neither man, wild animals, nor even calves as long as they continue to suck, suffer from the bite of this fearful pest. While some districts are infested by it, others in the immediate neighborhood are free, and, as it does not bite at night, the only way the cattle of travel- lers can escape is by passing quickly through the infested district before the sun is up. Sometimes the natives lose the whole of their cattle by its attacks, and travellers frequently have been deprived of all means of moving with their wagons, in consequence of the death of their animals; some, indeed, have perished from' being unable to proceed. Having reached the Chobe, a large river, which falls into the Zambesi, leaving their attendants encamped with their cattle on an island, Living- stone and his family, with Mr. Oswell, embarked in a canoe on the former river, and proceeded down it about twenty miles to an island, Avhere Sebituane was waiting to receive them. The chief, pleased with the confidence the doctor had shown in bring- ing his wife and children, promised to take them to see his country, that they might choose a spot where they might form a missionary station. He had been engaged in warfare nearly all his life, under varying fortunes, with the neighboring savage tribes, and had at length established himself in a secure position behind the Chobe and Leeambye, whose broad streams guarded him from the inroads of his enemies. He had now a larger number of subjects and was richer in cattle than any chief in that part of Africa. The rivers and swamps, however, of the region produced fever, which 4iad proved fatal to many of his people. He had long been anxious for PERILS OF TROPICAL EXPLORATIONS. 107 intercourse with Europeans, and showed every wish to encourage those who now visited him to remain in his territory. Unhappily, a few days after the arrival of his guests the chief was attacked with inflammation of the lungs, originating in an old wound, and, having listened to the gospel message delivered by the doctor, he in a short time breathed his last. Dr. Livingstone says that he was decidedly the best specimen of a native chief he had ever met. His followers expressed the hope that the English would be as friendly to his children as they intended to have been to himself. The chieftainship devolved at his death on a daughter, who gave the THE FINAL ATTACK OM A SAVAGE HIPPOPOTAMUS. visitors leave to travel through any part of the country they chose. 7 hey accordingly set out, and traversing a level district covered with wild date- trees, and here and there large patches of swamp, for a distance of a hundred and thirty miles to the north-east, they reached the banks of the Zambesi, in the centre of the continent. From the prevalence of the tsetse, and the periodical rise of its nu- merous streams causing malaria. Dr. Livingstone was compelled to abandon the intention he had formed of removing his own people thither that they might be out of reach of their savage neighbors, the Dutch Boers. It was, however, he at once saw, the key of Southern and Central ATrica. The magnificent stream, on the bank of which he now stood, flows I'^S' WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. hundreds of miles east tq the Indian Ocean — a mighty artery supplying, life to the teeming population of that part of Africa. He therefore deter- mined to send his wife and children to England, and to return himself and spend two or three years in the new region he had discovered, in the hope of evangelizing the people. He accordingly returned to Kolobeng, and then set out with his family a journey of a thousand miles, to Cape Town. Having seen them aboard a homeward bound ship, he again turned his face northward, June, 1852. The Explorer's House Kotobed. Having reached Kuruman, he was there detained by the breaking of a wagon-wheel. During that time the Dutch Boers attacked his friends, the Bakwains, carrying off a number of them into slavery, the only excuse the white men had being that Sechele was getting too saucy — in reality because he would not prevent the English traders from passing through his territory to the northwa:rd. The Dutch plundered Livingstone's house, and carried off the wagons of the chief and that of a trader who was stopping in the place. Livingstone therefore found great difficulty in obtaining guides and servants to proceed northward. Poor Sechele set out for Cape Town, intending as he said, to lay his complaint before the Queen of England, but was compelled by want of funds to return to his own country, where he devoted himself to the evangelization of his people. Parting with the chief, Livingstone, giving the Boers a wide berth, pro- ceeded across the desert to 'Linyanti, the capital of the Makololo, where he had visited the Chief Sebituane in 185 1. The whole population, amounting to nearly seven thousand souls, turned out to welcome him. He found that the princess had abdicated in favor of her brother Se- keletu, who received him with the greatest cordiality. The young king, then only nineteen, exclaimed: " I have now got another father instead of Sebituane." The people shared this feeling, believing that by the residence of a missionary among them they would obtain some important, benefits, though of the real character of the blessing they might receive they were totally ignorant. A rival of the young king existed in the person of a cousin, Mpepe, who had been appointed by the late king chief over a portion of his subjects, but whose ambition made him aim at the command of the whole. Half-caste Portuguese slave-traders had made their way to Linyanti^ and one, who pretended to be an important person, was carried about in^ a hammock slung between two .poles, which looking like a bag, the GREAT BAOBAB TREE OF AFRICA. (109) 110 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. natives called him " the father of the bag." Mpepe favored these scoun- drels, as he hoped by their means to succeed in his rebellion. The arrival of Livingstone, however, somewhat dampened their hopes. Living-stone Saves a Chief from an Assassin. As the chief object of the doctor was to select a spot for a settlement, he ascended, accompanied by Sekeletu, the great river Zambesi, which had been discovered in the year 185 1. The doctor had taught the Makololo to ride on their oxen, which they had never before done, though, having neither saddles or bridles, they constantly fell off. He and Sekeletu were riding along side by side, when they encoun- tered Mpepe, who, as soon as he saw them, ran towards the chief with his axe uplifted; but Sekeletu, galloping on, escaped him. On their arrival at their camp, while the chief and the doctor were sitting to- gether, Mpepe appeared, his men keeping hold of their arms. At that moment the rebel entered ; but the doctor, unconsciously covering Sekeletu's body, saved him from the assassin's blow. His cousin's inten- tion having been revealed to Sekeletu, that night Mpepe was dragged off from his fire and speared. So quietly was the deed done that Livingstone heard nothing of it till the next morning. Livingstone was soon after this attacked by fever, when his hosts exhibited the interest they felt for him by paying him every attention in their power. His own remedies of a wet sheet and quinine were more successful than the smoke and vapor baths employed by the natives. It is important that the position of Linyanti should be noted, as from it Livingstone set out on his journey westward to Loanda, on the West Coast, and, returning to it, commenced from thence that adventurous expedition to the East Coast, which resulted in so many interesting discoveries. A Picturesque Company. Having recovered from his fever, Livingstone, accompanied by Sekeletu, ^ and about one hundred and sixty attendants, mostly young men, asso- ciates of the chief, set out for Sesheke. The intermediate country was perfectly flat, except patches elevated a few feet only above the sur- rounding level. There were also numerous mounds, the work of ants, which are literally gigantic structures, and often as tall as wild date trees .'at their full heig-ht. The party looked exceedingly picturesque as, the ostrich feathers of the men waving in the air, they wound in a long line in and out among the mounds. Some wore red tunics or variously-colored prints, and their heads vvere adorned with the white ends of ox tails or caps made of lions' (Ill) 112 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. manes. The nobles walked with a small club of rhinoceros horn in their hands, their servants carrying their shields; while the ordinary men bore burdens, and the battle-axe men, who had their shields on their arms, were employed as messengers, often having to run an immense distance. The Makololo possess numerous cattle, and the chief, having to feed his followers, either selected oxen from his own stock or received them from the head men of the villages through which they passed, as tribute. Reaching the village of Katonga on the banks of the Leeambye, some time was spent there in collecting canoes. During this delay Living- stone visited the country to the north of the village, where he saw enor- mous numbers of buffaloes, zebras, elans, and a beautiful small antelope. He was enabled, by this hunting expedition, to supply his companions with an abundance of food. At length, a sufficient number of canoes being collected, they com- menced the ascent of the river. His own canoe had six paddles, while that of the chief had ten. They paddled standing upright, and kept stroke with great exactness. Being flat-bottomed, they can float in very shallow water. The fleet consisted altogether of thirty-three canoes and •one hundred and sixty men. " Man Overboard ! " Most of the Makololo are unable to swim, and a canoe being upset, one of the party, an old doctor, was lost, while the Barotse canoe-men easily save themselves by swimming. Numerous villages were seen on both banks of the river, the inhabitants of which are expert hunter% of the hippopotamus, and are excellent handi- craftmen. They manufacture wooden bowls with neat lids, and show much taste in carving stools. Some make neat baskets, and others excel in pottery and iron. On their arrival at the town of the father of Mpepe, who had instigated his son to rebellion, two of his chief councilors were led forth and tossed into the river. Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, the tribe inhabiting the district in which they now were, is built on an artificially-constructed mound, as are many other villages of that region, to raise them above the overflowing river. From finding no trace of European names amongthem, Livingstone was convinced that the country had not before been visited by white men ; whereas, after he had come among them, great numbers of children were named after his own boy, while others were called Horse, Gun, Wagon, etc. Koaring Liions. Here again numbers of large game were seen. Eighty-one buffaloes defiled in slow procession before the fire of the travellers one evening (113) 114 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. within gunshot, and herds of splendid elans stood at two hundred yards' distance, without showing signs of fear. Lions, too, approached and roared at them. One . night, as they were sleeping on the summit of a large sandbank, a lion appeared on the opposite shore, who amused him- self for hours by roaring as loudly as he could. The river was too broad for a ball to reach him, and he walked off without suffering for his imper- tinence. Livingstone saw two as tall as common donkeys, their manes making their bodies appear of still greater size. Lions are in the habit of preying upon cattle, and the natives have to contrive all manner of ways for protecting their herds. These formida- ble beasts have been known to carry off young cattle as large as themselves. On their journey they visited the town of Ma-Sekeletu, or the Mother of Sekeletu, where, as it was the first visit the king had paid to this part of his dominions, he was received with every appearance of joy. A grand dance was got up, the men moving in a circle, with spears and small battle-axes in their ha,nds, roaring at the loudest pitch of their voices. The arms and head were thrown about in every direction, the roaring being kept up with the utmost vigor, while the dust ascended in clouds around them. Wild Men of tlie Jungle. Returning down the stream at a rapid rate, they quickly reached Linyanti. During this nine weeks' tour. Dr. Livingstone had been in. closer contact with heathenism than ever before, and though, including the chief, everyone had been as attentive as possible, yet the dancing, roaring, singing, jesting, quarreling, added to the murdering propensities of these children of nature was painful in the extreme. The chief and his followers, agreeing that the object of Livingstone's proposed expedition to the west was most desirable, took great pains to assist him in the undertaking. A band of twenty-seven men was ap- pointed to accompany him by the chief's command, whose eager desire was to obtain a free and profitable trade with the white men, and this, Livingstone was convinced, was likely to lead to their ultimate elevation and improvement. Three men whom -he had brought from Kuruman having suffered greatly from fever, he sent them back with Fleming, a trader, who had followed his footsteps. His new attendants he named Zambesians, for there were only two Makololo men — the rest consisting of Barotse, Batoka, and other tribes. His wagon and remaining goods he committed to the charge of the Makololo, who took ^11 the articles- into their huts. He carried only a rifle and a double-barrelled smooth- (115) 116 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. bore gun for himself, and gave three muskets to his people, by means of which he hoped game might be obtained for their support. Wishing also to save his followers from having to carry heavy loads, he took for his own support but a few biscuits and a pound of tea and sugar, about twenty of coffee, a small tin canister with some spare shirting, trousers, and shoes, another for medicines, and a third for books, while a fourth contained a magic lantern. His ammunition was distributed in portions among the whole luggage, that, should an accident occur to one, the rest might be preserved. His camp equipage consisted of a gipsy tent, a sheep-skin mantle, and a horse-rug as a bed, as he had always found that the chief art of successful travelling consisted in taking as few impediments as possible. His sextant, artificial horizon, thermometer, and compasses were carried apart. Carry as little as he would, Livingstone found that he was compelled to take more baggage than could be conveniently transported through African forests and jungles. Some people in civilized countries when they travel appear to take everything they need and everything they do not need ; it cannot be said of our great explorer, however, that he took anything which was not needed. His box of medicines was, of course, a constant companion ; we shall see farther on that this box was lost or stolen and that the expedition was left entirely without medical remedies. Often large parts of the baggage would have to be exchanged with the natives for food, or paid out as tribute to unfriendly chiefs. This was one of the unpleasant experiences and severe hardships which the great traveller encountered. • It will be seen through all these journeys that Livingstone was per- fectly willing to share the fate of his men. He asked nothing for him- self better than he was willing to grant for them. If they slept on the hard ground, he was willing to sleep there too ; if they waded rivers, he was willing to go in as deep as they went; if they had unwholesome food, and little of it, he was ready to divide with them his last crust. By his own self-sacrificing and generous spirit he attached himself strongly to his followers. This was one great secret of his magnificent achievements in the Dark Continent CHAPTER VI. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. Dangers of River Navigation — Luxuriant Wild Fruits — Skillful Management of Canoes by Natives — Magnificent Scenery — Man Seized by a Crocodile — Beautiful Flowers and Wild Honey— Strapping Chieftainess Smeared with Fat and Red Ochre — Pompous Chief— Curious Piano — Portuguese Traders — Warm Reception to the Explorers— Lifting off Roofs of Houses to Cover the Travellers — A Chief who Killed His Subjects for Amusement — Remarkable Custom for Cementing Friendship — Tricksters who Want Money — Livingstone Suffers from Fever— Savage Attack upon the Expedition — Using Charms and Cupping for Sickness — Black Corporal for an Escort— Beautiful Country Going to Waste — Vast Herds of Cattle — An Ornamental Garden — Natives Astonished by Strange Sights — Generous Gifts of Jolly Tars— "Stones that Burn"— An Attractive Town— The Irrepressible Don- key — Strange Belief in Evil Spirits— Grotesque Head-dresses — Fine Sport with the Gun — The Expedition Travelling in Small Canoes — Livingstone Charged by a Buffalo— Noisy Welcome to the Explorers — Troops of Elephants. N the nth of November, 1853, accompanied by the chief and his principal men to see him off, Livingstone left and embarked on the Chobe. The chief danger in navigating this river is from the bachelor hippopotami who have been expelled their herd, and, whose tempers being soured, the canoes are frequently upset by them. One of these misanthropes chased some of his men, and ran after them on shore with considerable speed. The banks of the river were clothed with trees, among them acacias and evergreens, from the pink-colored specimens of which a pleasant acid drink is obtained. Leaving the Chobe, they entered the Leeambye, up which they pro- ceeded at a somewhat slow rate, as they had to wait at different villages for supplies of food. Several varieties of wild fruit were presented to them. The crews of the canoes worked admirably, being always in good humor, and, on any danger threatening, immediately leaped overboard to prevent them coming broadside to the stream, or being caught by eddies, or dashed against the rocks. Birds, fish, iguanas, and hippo- potami abounded ; indeed the whole river teemed with life. On November 30th, the Gonye Falls were reached. No rain having fallen, it was excessively hot. They usually got up at dawn — about five in the morning — coffee was taken and the canoes loaded, the first two hours being the most pleasant part of the day's sail. The Barotse, being a tribe of boatmen, managed their canoes admirably. (117) 118 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. At about eleven they landed to lunch. After an hour's rest they embarked, the doctor with an umbrella overhead. Sometimes they reached a sleeping-place two hours before sunset. Coffee was again served out, with coarse bread made of maize meal, or Indian corn, unless some animal had been killed, when a potful of flesh was boiled. The canoes were carried beyond the falls; slung on poles placed on men's shoulders. Here as elsewhere the doctor exhibited his magic lantern, greatly to the delight of the people. Beautiful Scenery. Nothing could be more lovely than the scenery of the falls. The water rushes through a fissure and, being confined below by a space not more than a hundred yards wide, goes rolling over and over in great masses, amid which the most expert swimmer can in vain make way. The doctor was able to put a stop to an intended fight between the inhabitants of two villages. -Several volunteers offered to join him, but his followers determined to adhere to the orders of Seketelu, and refused all other companions. They were treated most liberally by the inhabi- tants of all the villages, who presented them with more oxen, milk and meal than they could stow away. Entering the Leeambye, Livingstone proceeded up that stream in his canoe, while his oxen and a portion of his men continued their journey along its banks. The rain had fallen, and nature had put on her gayest apparel ; flowers of great beauty and curious forms grew everywhere, many of the forest trees having palmated leaves, the trunks being covered with lichens, while magnificent ferns were seen in all the moister situations. In the cool morning the welkin rang with the singing of birds, and the ground swarmed with insect life. Combat witli a Monstrous Crocodile. Crocodiles were in prodigious numbers, children and calves being constantly carried off by them. One of his men was seized, but, retaining his presence of mind when dragged to the bottom, he struck the monster with his javelin and escaped, bearing the marks of the reptile's teeth on his thigh. The doctor's men had never before used firearms, and, proving bad shots, came to him for " gun medicine " to enable them to shoot better. As he was afraid of their exhausting his supply of powder, he was compelled to act as sportsman for the party. Leaving Leeambye, he proceeded up the Leeba. Beautiful flowers and abundance of wild honey was found on its shores, and large num- bers of young crocodiles were seen sunning themselves on the sandbanks with their parents. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 119 They had now reached the Balonda country, and received a visit from a, chieftainess, Manenko, a tall strapping woman covered with ornaments and smeared over with fat and red ochre as a protection against the weather. She invited them to visit her uncle Shinti, the chief of the 120 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. dountry. They set out in the midst of a heavy drizzHng mist; on, how- ever, the lady went, in the hghtest marching order. The doctor enquired' why she did not clothe herself during the rain; but it appeared that she did not consider it proper for a chief to appear effeminate. The men, in admiration of her pedestrian powers, every now and then remarked: "Manenko is a soldier." Some of the people in her train carried shields composed of reeds, of a square form, five feet long and three broad. With these, and armed with broadswords and quivers full of iron-headed arrows, they looked somewhat ferocious, but are in reality not noted for their courage. A Pompous Chief. The doctor was glad when at length the chieftainess halted on the- banks of a stream, and preparations were made for the night's lodgings After detaining them several days, she accompanied them on foot to Shinti's town. The chief's .place of audience was ornamented by two graceful banyan trees, beneath one of which he sat on a sort of throne covered with a leopard-skin. He wore a checked shirt and a kilt of scarlet baize, edged with green, numerous ornaments covering his arms- and legs, while on his head was a helmet of beads, crowned with large goose feathers. At his side sat three lads with quivers full of arrows over their shoulders. Livingstone took his seat under the shade of another tree opposite to the chief, while the spokesman of the party, who had accompanied them, in a loud voice, walking backwards and forwards, gave an account of the doctor and his connection "with the Makololo. Behind the chief sat a. hundred women clothed in red baize, while his wife was sitting in front of him. Between the speeches the ladies burst forth into a sort of plain- tive ditty. Singular Piano, The party was entertained by a band of musicians, consisting of three drummers and four performers on the marimba, a species of piano. It consists of two bars of wood placed side by side ; across these are fixed fifteen wooden keys, each two or three inches broad and about eighteen long, their thickness being regulated by the deepness of the note required. Each of the keys has a calabash below it, the upper portion of which, being cut off to hold the bars, they form hollow sounding-boards to the keys. These are also of different sizes according to the notes required. The keys are struck by small drum sticks to produce the sound. The Portuguese have imitated the marimba, and use it in their dances in. Anerola. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 121 The women in this country are treated with more respect by the men than in other parts of Africa. A party of Mambari, with two native Portuguese traders, had come up to obtain slaves, and, while Dr. Living- stone was residing with Shinti, some young children were kidnapped,, evidently to be sold to them. The day before he was to recommence his journey, the doctor received a visit in his tent from Shinti, who, as a mark of his friendship, presented him with a shell on which he set the greatest value, observing : " There, now you have a proof of my affection." These shells, as marks of dis- tinction, are so highly valued that for two of them a slave may be bought,, and five will buy an elephant's tusk worth fifty dollars. The old chief had provided a guide, Int6mese, to conduct them to the territory of THE MARIMBA, OR AFRICAN PIANO. f the next chief, Katema. He also gave an abundant supply of food, and wished them a prosperous journey. Livingstone again started on the 26th of January, Shinti sending eight men to assist in carrying his luggage. He had now to quit the canoes and to proceed on ox-back, taking a northerly direction. He and his party received the same kind treatment in the country as before, the villagers, by command of their chiefs, presenting them with an abundance of food. They found English cotton cloth more eagerly enquired after than beads and ornaments. On arriving at a village the inhabitants lifted off the roofs of some of their huts, and brought them to the camp, to save the men the trouble of booth-making. On starting again the villagers were left to replace them at their leisure, no payment 122 .^ WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. (being expected. Heavy rains now came on, and the doctor and his party were continually wet to the skin. Polite as the people were, they were still fearful savages. Messengers .arrived from the neighboring town to announce the death of their chief, Matiamvo. That individual had been addicted to running a-muck through his capital and beheading any one he met, till he had a large heap of human heads in front of his hut. Men were also slaughtered occasionally, whenever the chief wanted part of a body to perform cer- tain charms. The Balonda appear to have some belief in the existence of the soul, and a greater feeling of reverence in their composition than the tribes to the eastward. Among their customs they have a remarkable one. Those who take it into their heads to become friends, cement their friendship. Taking their seats opposite one to the other, with a vessel of beer by the side of each, they clasp hands. They then make cuts on their clasped hands, the pits of their stomachs, their foreheads, and right cheeks. The point of a blade of grass is then pressed against the cuts, and afterwards each man washes it in his own pot of beer ; exchanging pots, the contents are drunk, so that each man drinks the blood of the other. Thus they consider that they become blood relations and are bound in every possi- ble way to assist each other. These people were greatly surprised at the liberty enjoyed by the Makololo. Playing- Tricks for Money. The travellers paid a visit to Katema, the chief of the district, who received them dressed in a snuff-brown coat, with a helmet of beads and feathers on his head, and in his hand a number of tails oi gnus bound together. He also sent some of his men to accompany them on their journey. The rains continued, and the doctor suffered much from having to sleep on the wet ground. Having reached the latitude of Loanda, Livingstone now directed his course to the westward. On the 4th of March he reached the outskirts of the territory of the Chiboque. As he approached the more civilized settlements, he found the habits of the people changed much for the worse : tricks of all sorts were played to detain him and obtain tribute; the guides also tried in every way to impose on him. Even his Makololo expressed their sorrow at seeing so beautiful a country ill cultivated and destitute of cattle. He was compelled to sell one of his riding oxen for food, as none could be obtained. The Chiboque coming round in great numbers, their chief demanded tribute, and one of their number made a charge at Livingstone, but quickly retreated on having the muzzle of the traveller's gun pointed STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 123 :at his head. The chief and his councillors, however, consenting to sit 'down on the ground, the Makololo, well drilled, surrounded them, and thus got them completely in their power. A mutiny, too, broke out among his own people, who complained of want of food; but it was sup- pressed by the appearance of the doctor with a double-barrelled pistol in his hand. They never afterwards gave him any trouble. Similar demands for payment to allow him to pass through the country were made by other chiefs, his faithful Makololo giving up their orna- ments, as he had done nearly all the beads and shirts in his possession. The most extortionate of these chiefs was loaga Panza, whose sons, after STAMPEDE OF SOUTH AFRICAN GNUS. receiving payment for acting as guides, deserted him. All this time Livingstone was suffering daily from the attacks of fever, which rendered him excessively weak, so that he could scarcely sit upon his ox. The country appeared fertile and full of small villages, and the soil is so rich that little labor is required for its cultivation. . It is, however, the chief district whence slaves are obtained, and a feeling of insecurity was evident amongst the inhabitants. A demand was now made by each chief for a man, an ox, or a tusk as a tribute. The first, was of course, refused, but nearly all the remainder of the traveller's property had to be ithus paid away. 124 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. On the 4th of April they reached the banks of the Quango, here one hundred and fifty yards wide. The chief of the district — a young man, who wore his hair curiously formed into the shape of a cone, bound round with white thread — on their refusing to pay him an extortionate demand,, ordered his people not to ferry them across, and opened fire on them. At this juncture a half-caste Portuguese, a sergeant of militia, Cypriano Di Abreu, arrived, and, obtaining ferrymen, they crossed over into the territory of the Bangala, who are subject to the Portuguese. They had some time before rebelled, and troops were now stationed among them,. Cypriano being in command of a party of men. Nsxt morning he pro- vided a delicious breakfast for his guest, and fed the Makololo with pumpkins and maize, while he supplied them with farina for their journey to Kasenge, without even hinting at payment. The natives, though they long have had intercourse with the Portu- guese, are ignorant and superstitious in the extreme." Many parts of the country are low and marshy, and they suffer greatly from fever. Of the use of medicine they have no notion, their only remedies being charms and cupping. The latter operation is performed with a small horn,, which has a little hole in the upper end. The broad end is placed on the flesh, when the operator sucks through the hole; as the flesh rises, he gashes it with a knife, then replaces the horn and sucks again, till finally he introduces a piece of wax into his mouth, to stop up the hole, when the horn is left to allow the blood to gush into it. It took the travellers four days to reach Kasenge, a town inhabited by about forty Portuguese tracers and their servants. Though told by the doctor that he was a Protestant minister, they treated him with the greatest kindness and hospitality. A Black Corporal for an Escort. Here the Makololo sold Sekeletu's tusks, obtaining much better prices than they would have done from the Cape traders, forgetting, however, that their value was greatly increased by the distance they had been brought. The Makololo here expressed their fears, from what they had heard, that they were about to be led down to the sea-coast to be sold, but when Livingstone asked them if he had ever deceived them, and that he would assure them of their safety, they agreed to accompany him. The mer- chants of Kasenge treated the doctor with the most disinterested kind- ness, and furnished him with letters to their friends at Loanda. He was escorted by a black corporal of militia, who was carried in a hammock by his slaves. He could both read and write, and was STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 125 cleanly in all his ways ; he was considerate also to his young slaves, and walked most of the way, only getting into his hammock on approaching a village, for the sake of keeping up his dignity. He, however, had the usual vices of African guides, and did not fail to cheat those he was sent to protect. 126^ WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Sleeping-places were erected on the road about ten miles apart, as- there is a constant stream of people going to and coming from the coast. Goods are either carried on the head or on one shoulder, in a sort of basket, supported by two poles five or six feet long. When the carrier feels tired and halts, he plants them on the ground, allowing his burden to rest against a tree, so that he has not to lift it up from the ground to the level of his head. On arriving at a sleeping-place, the sheds were immediately taken possession of by the first comers, those arriving last having to make huts with long grass for themselves. Women might then be seen coming from their villages with baskets of manioc meal,, yams, garlic, and other roots for sale. As Livingstone had supplied himself with calico at Kasenge, he was able to purchase what was necessary. The district of Ambaca, through which he now passed, was excessively fertile. Large numbers of cattle exist on its pastures, which are well watered by flowing streams, while lofty mountains rise in the distance. It is said to contain forty thousand souls. The doctor was delighted with Golcongo Alto, a magnificent district — the hills bedecked with trees of various hues, the graceful oil-yielding palm towering above them. Here the commandant. Lieutenant Castro, received him in a way that won the doctor's affectionate regard. He calculated that this district has a popu- lation of a hundred and four thousand. The lieutenant regretted, as does every person of intelligence, the neglect with which this magnificent country has been treated. Natives Astonislied by Strange Sights. As they proceeded, they passed streams with cascades, on which mills- might easily be formed; but here numbers of carpenters were converting the lofty trees which grew around into planks, by splitting them with ■. wedges. At Trombeta the commandant had his garden ornamented with rows of trees, with pineapples and flowers growing between them. A few years ago he purchased an estate for eighty dollars, on which he had now a coffee plantation and all sorts of fruit trees and grape-vines, besides grain and vegetables growing, as also a cotton plantation. As they approached the sea the Makololo gazed at it, spreading out before them, with feelings of awe, having before believed that the whole world was one extended plain. They again showed their fears that they might be kidnapped, but Livingstone reassured them, telling them that as they had stood by each other hitherto, so they wQuId do to the last- On the 31st of M,ay they descended a declivity leading to the city of Loanda, where Livingstone was warmly welcomed by Mr. Gabriel, the STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 127- British commissioner. Seeing him so ill, he benevolently offered the doctor his bed. " Never shall I forget," says Livingstone, " the luxu- rious pleasure I enjoyed in feeling myself again on a good English couch^ after for six months sleeping on the ground." It took many days how- ever, before the doctor recovered from the exposure and fatigue he had • CHARMING AWAY EVIL SPIRITS. endured. All that time he was watched over with the most generous sympathy by his kind host. The Portuguese Bishop of Angola, and numerous other gentlemen, called on him and tendered their services. Her Majesty's ship " Polyphemus " coming in, the surgeon, Mr.. Cockin, afforded him the medical assistance he so much required, and t 128 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. soon he was suficiently recovered to call on the bishop, attended by his Makololo followers. They had all been dressed in new robes of striped cotton cloth, and red caps, presented by Mr. Gabnel. The bishop, acting as head of the provisional government, received them in form, and gave them permission to come to Loanda and trade as often as they wished, with which they were greatly pleased. The Makololo gazed with astonishment at all they witnessed, the large stone houses and churches especially, never before having seen a building larger than a hut. The commanders of the " Pluto " and "Phil- omel," which came into the harbor, invited them on board. Knowing their fears, Livingstone told them that no one need go should they en- tertain the least suspicion of foul play. Nearly the whole party went. Jolly Tars and African Natives. Going forward amongst the men, they were received much the same as , the Makololo would have received them, the jolly tars handing them a share of the bread and beef they had for dinner. They were allowed to fire off a cannon, at which they were greatly pleased. This visit had a most beneficial effect, as it raised Livingstone still more highly than ever in the opinion of the natives. During August the doctor was again attacked by a severe fit of fever. His men, while he was unable to attend to them, employed themselves in going into the country and cutting firewood, which they sold to the in- habitants of the town. Mr. Gabriel also found them employment in unloading a collier, at six-pence a day. They continued at this work for upwards of a month, astonished at the vast amount of " stones that burn " which were taken out of her. With the mone}' thus obtained they pur- chased clothing, beads, and other articles to carry home with them. In selecting calicoes they Avere well able to judge of the best, and chose such pieces as appeared the strongest, without reference to color. Saint Paul de Loanda, once a considerable city, has now fallen greatly into decay. There are, however, many large stone houses, and the palace of the governor, and the government offices, are substantial structures. Trees are planted throughout the town for the sake of shade. Though the dwellings of the native inhabitants are composed merely of wattle and daub, from the sea they present an imposing appearance. Though at first the government lost its chief revenue from the sup- pression of the slave trade, it has again gradually increased by the lawful commerce now carried on by its merchants The officers are, however, so badly paid that they are compelled to engage in mercantile pursuits, and some attempt by bribes to assist the slave-dealers. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 129 From the kind and generous treatment Livingstone receiv^ed from the Portuguese, they rose deservedly high in his estimation. He now prepared for his departure. The merchants sent a present to Sekeletu, consisting of specimens of all their articles of trade and two -donkeys, that the breed might be introduced into his country, as the venomous fly called the tsetse cannot kill those beasts of burden. The ■doctor was. also furnished with letters of recommendation to the Portu- guese authorities in Eastern Africa. The bishop likewise furnished him with twenty carriers, and sent forward orders to the commandants of the districts to the east to render him every assistance. He supplied himself with ammunition, and bead's, and a stock of cloth, and he gave each of liis men a musket. He had also purchased a horse for Sekeletu. His friends of the ■"Philomel" iitted him out also with a new tent, and, on the 20th of Septem- ber, 1854, he and his party left Loan da, es- corted by Mr. Gabriel, who, f r o m his un- wearied atten- tions and liber- ality to his men, had become en- deared to all their hearts. Passing round by the sea, he ascended the River Bengo to Icollo-i- Bengo, once the residence of a native king. While Mr. Gabriel returned to Loanda, Dr. Livingstone and his party proceeded to Golcongo Alto, where he left some of his men to rest, while he took an excursion to Kasenge, celebrated for its coffee plantations. On his return he found several of them suffering from fever, while one of them had gone out of his mind, but in short time recovered. He had thus an opportunity of watching the workings of slavery. The moment their master was ill, the slaves ate up everything on which they could lay their hands, till the doctor himself could scarcely obtain SINGULAR MODE OF DRESSING THE HAIR. 130 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. even bread and butter. Here Sekeletu's horse was seized with inflamma- tion, and the poor animal afterwards died on its journey. On the 28th of February they reached the banks of the Quango, where they were again received by Cypriano. The colored population of Angola are sunk in the grossest superstition^ They fancy themselves completely in the power of spirits, and are con- stantly deprecating their wrath. A chief, named Gando, had lately been accused of witchcraft, and, being killed by the ordeal, his body was thrown into the river. Heavy payment was demanded by the ferrymen for crossing in their wretched canoes ; but the cattle and donkeys had to swim across. Avoiding their friend with the comical head-dress, they made their way to the camp of some Ambakistas, or half-caste Portuguese, who had gone across to trade in wax. They are famed for their love of learning, and are keen traders, and, writing a peculiarly fine hand, are generally employed as clerks, sometimes being called the Jews of Angola. Fantastic Head-dresses. The travellers were now in the country of the Bishinji, possessing the lowest negro physiognomy. At a village where they halted, they were attacked by the head man^ who had been struck by one of the Makololo on their previous visit, although atonement had been made. A large body of the natives now rushed upon them as they were passing through a forest, and began firing, tl^ bullets passing amid the trees. Dr. Living- stone fortunately encountered the chief, and, presenting a six-barrelled revolver, produced an. instant revolution in his martial feelings. The doctor then, ordering him and his people to sit down, rode off. They were now accompanied by their Portuguese friends, the Londa people^ who inhabit the banks of theLoajima. They elaborately dress their hair in a number of ways. It naturally" hangs down on their shoulders in large masses, which, with their general features, gives them a strong resemblance to the ancient Egyptians. Some of them adorn their heads with ornaments of woven hair and hide,, to which they occasionally suspend the tails of buffaloes. Another fash- ion is to weave the hair on pieces of hide in the form of buffalo horns, projecting on either side of the head. The young men twine their hair in the form of horns projecting in different directions. They frequently tattoo their bodies, producing figures in the form of stars. Although their heads are thus elaborately adorned, their bodies are almost destitute of clothing. STRANGE PLACES AND PEOPLES. 131 Reaching Calongo, Livingstone directed his course towards the terri- tory of his old friend, Katema. They were generally well received at the BEAUTIFUL ZEBRAS OF AFRICA. villages. On the 2nd of June they reached that of Kanawa. This chief, whose village consisted of forty or fifty huts, at first treated them very 132 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. politely, but he took it into his head to demand an ox as tribute. On their refasing it, Kanawa ordered his people to arm. On this, Livingstone directed his Makololo to commence the march. Some did so with alacrity, but one of them refused, and was preparing to fire at Kanawa, when the doctor, giving him a blow with his pistol, made him go too. They had already reached the banks of the river when they found that Kanawa had sent on ahead to carry off all the canoes. The ferrymen supposing that the travellers were unable to navigate the canoes, left them, unprotected, on the bank. As soon as it was dark, therefore, the Mako- lolo quickly obtained one of them, and the whole party crossed, greatly to the disgust of Kanawa when he discovered in the morning what had occurred. They now took their way across the level plain, which had been flooded on. their former journey. Numberless vultures were flying in the air, showing the quantity of carrion which had been left by the waters. They passed Lake Dilolo, a sheet of water six or "eight miles long and two broad. The sight of the blue waters had a soothing effect on the doctor, who was suffering from fever, after his journey through the gloomy forest and across the wide flat. Pitsane and Mohorisi, Livingstone's chief men, had proposed establishing a Makololo village on the banks of the Leeba, near its confluence with the Leeambye, that it might become a market to communicate westward with Loanda, and eastward with the regions along the banks of the Zambesi. Exploits with tlie Gun. Old Shinti, whose capital they now reached, received them as before in a friendly way, and supplied them abundantly with provisions. The doc- tor left with him a number of plants, among which were orange, cashew, custard, apple, and fig-trees, with coffee, acacias, and papaws, which he had brought from Loanda. They were planted out in the enclosure of one of his principal men, with a promise that Shinti should have a share of them when grown. They now again embarked in six small canoes on the waters of the Leeba. Paddling down it, they next entered the Leeambye. Here they found a party of hunters, who had been engaged in stalking buffaloes, hippopotami, and other animals. They use for this purpose the skin of a deer, with the horns attached, or else the head and upper part of the body of a crane, with which they creep through the grass till they can get near enough to shoof their prey. The doctor, wishing to obtain some meat for his men, took a small canoe and paddled up a creek towards a herd of zebras seen on the shore. (133) 134 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Firing he broke the hind leg of one of them. His men pursued it, and, as he walked slowly after them, he observed a solitary buffalo, which had been disturbed by others of his party, galloping towards him. The only tree was a hundred yards off The doctor cocked his rifle in the hope of striking the brute on the forehead. The thought occurred to him, but what should his gun miss fire ? The animal came on at a tremendous speed, but a small bush a short distance off made it swerve and expose its shoulder. The doctor fired, and as he heard the ball crack, he fell flat on his face. The buffalo bounded past him towards the water, near which it was found dead. His Makololo blamed themselves for not having been by his side, while he returned thanks to God for his preservation. A Joyous Reception. On reaching the town of Lebouta, they were welcomed with the warm- est demonstrations of joy, the women coming out, dancing and singing. Thence they were conducted to the kotlar, or house of assembly, where Pitsand delivered a long speech, describing the journey and the kind way in which they had been received at Loanda, especially by the English chief Next day Livingstone held a service, when his Makololo braves, ar- rayed in their red caps and white suits of European clothing, attended, sitting with their guns over their shoulders. As they proceeded down JBarotse Valley, they were received in the same cordial manner. The doctor was astonished at the prodigious quantities of wild animals of all descriptions which he saw on this journey, and also when traversing the country further to the east — elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, zebras, an- telopes, and pigs. Frequently the beautiful springbok appeared, covering the plain, sometimes in sprinklings and at other times in dense crowds, as far as the eye could reach. The troops of elephants also far exceeded in numbers anything which he had ever before heard of or conceived. He and his men had often to shout to them to get out of their way, and on more than one occasion a herd rushed in upon the travellers, who not without difficulty made their escape. A number of young elephants were shot for food, their flesh being 'highly esteemed. To the natives the huge beasts are a great plague, as they break into their gardens and eat up their pumpkins and other produce; when disturbed they are apt to charge those interrupting their feast, and, following them, to demolish the huts in which they may have taken refuge, not unfrequently killing them in their rage. Resting at Sesheke, they proceeded to Linyanti, where the wagon and everything that had been left in it in November, 1853, ^^^ perfectly safe. ELEPHANT PROTECTING HER YOUNG FROM HUNTERS SPEARS. (135) 136 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. A grand meeting was called, when the doctor made a report of his jour- ney and distributed the articles which had been sent by the governor and merchants of Loanda. Pitsane and others then gave an account of what they had seen, and, as may be supposed, nothing was lost in the descrip- tion. The presents afforded immense satisfaction, and on Sunday Seke- letu made his appearance in church dressed in the uniform which had been brought down for him, and which attracted every man's attention. The Arab, Ben Habed, and Sekeletu arranged with him to conduct another party with a load of ivory down to Loanda; they also consulted him as to the proper presents to send to the governor and merchants. The Makololo generally expressed great satisfaction at the route which had been opened up, and proposed moving to the Barotse Valley^ that they might be nearer the great market. The unhealthiness of the climate, however, was justly considered a great drawback to the scheme- The doctor afterwards heard that the trading party which set out reached Loanda in safety, and it must have been a great satisfaction to him to feel that he had thus opened out a way to the enterprise of these industrious- and intelligent people. The donkeys which had been brought excited much admiration, and,, as they were not affected by the bite of the tsetse, it was hoped that they might prove of great use. Their music, however, startled the inhabitants more than the roar of lions. It is not difficult to believe this statement. It is in the nature of the donkey to be heard even farther than he can be seen, and when he takes in a full breath and opens his mouth, it is not strange that those who listen to his bray are frightened. This animal, however, is not to be judged either by his looks or his voice. He is exceedingly useful, and can be trained to difficult service and, although he has an extraordinary temper and an extraordinary pair of ears, still the world is better off for the donkey. He should be looked at as a part of the Divine creation, and the humbler animals are certainly deserving of consideration for the good that they^ render to the human race. It is not customary in our country to make any great use of the don- key. In England, however, and on the Continent of Europe, as well as in other eastern countries, the peasants who are too poor to invest in horses can yet provide themselves with a beast of burden. All honor,, then to the plain, ill-tempered, serviceable, long-eared, old-fashioned don- key. He should never be despised after such splendid services as he has rendered our Tropical heroes. CHAPTER VII. ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. Livingstone's Resolve to Reach the East Coast — A Fine Race of Negroes — One hun- dred and fourteen Trustworthy Men — The Brave Leaders of the Company — A Terrible Storm— Sailing Down the River — Far-famed Victoria Falls — Scene of Extreme Beauty — Ascending Clouds of Spray — Immense Baobab Tree — Strange Mode of Salutation — Traffic in Ivorj^ — Buffalo Brought Down with the Rifle — • Presents from a Peace-loving Chief — Vast Numbers of Wild Animals — Huge Hippopotami and their Young — How the Natives Capture Elephants — Strange Appearance of the Natives — Mouths like those of Ducks — Hostilities by a Village Chief — Remains of an Old Portuguese Settlement — The Doctor's Ox Gallops off — Strange Cries and Waving Fire-brands — Visit from two Old Men — American Cal- ico in a Far Land — Surprising Instinct of the Elephant — The Enormous Beast Taught to Work for his Master— A New Way of Laying Timbers — Remarkable Story by an English Officer — Extraordinary Sagacity of the Elephant — Dangers in the Path of the Expedition — Great Risk from Being Attacked by Lions — Dread- ful Encounter with a King of the Forest— A "Civilized Breakfast " — Kind Recep- tion by an English Major — Natives who Plant Gold for Seed — Tree Supposed ta Have Remarkable Medical Virtues — Four Years away from Cape Town — Ravages of Famine— A Chief who Wishes to Visit England — Seized with Insanity and Lost Overboard — Livingstone arrives in England. R. LIVINGSTONE now began to make arrangements for perform- ing another hazardous journey to the East Coast. In the mean time he was fully occupied in attending to the sick, and his other missionary duties. He was advised, to wait till the rains had fallen and cooled the ground ; and as it was near the end of September, and clouds were collecting, it was expected that they would soon commence. The heat was very great : the thermometer, even in the shade of his wagon^ was at ioo°, and, if unprotected, rose to iio° ; during the night it sank to 70°. Among other routes which were proposed, he selected that by the north bank of the Zambesi. He would, however, thus have to pass through territories in the possession of the Matabele, who, under their powerful chief, h^d driven away the Makololo, its original possessors. Notwith- standing this he had no fears for himself, as that chief looked upon Mr> Moffatt, his father-in-law, as his especial friend. A considerable district^ also, of the country was still inhabited by the Makololo, and by them he was sure to be kindly treated. The Makololo, it must be understood, are a mixed race, composed of tribes of Bechuanas who formerly inhabited (137) 138 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. the country bordering the Kalahara Desert. Their language, the Bechu- ana, is spoken by the upper classes of the Makololo, and into this tongue, by the persevering labors of Mr. Moffatt, nearly the whole of the Scrip- tures have been translated. The bulk of the people are negroes, and are an especially fine, athletic, and skilful race. As soon as Livingstone announced his intention of proceeding to the ■east, numerous volunteers came forward to accompany him. From among them he selected a hundred and fourteen trustworthy men, and Sekeletu appointed two, Sekwebu and Kanyata, as leaders of the company. Sekwebu had been captured, when a child, from the Matabele, and his tribe now inhabited the country near Tete ; he had frequently travelled along the banks of the Zambesi, and spoke the various dialects of the people residing on them, and was, moreover, a man of sound judgment and prudence, and rendered great service to the expedition. A Fearful Storm. On the 3rd of November Livingstone, bidding farewell to his frienas at Linyanti, set out, accompanied by Sekeletu and two hundred followers. On reaching a patch of country infested by troublesome flies it became necessary to travel at night. A fearful storm broke forth, sometimes the lightning, spreading over the sky, forming eight or ten branches like those of a gigantic tree. At times the light was so great that the whole country could be distinctly seen, and in the intervals between the flashes it was as densely dark. The horses trembled, turning round to search for each other, while the thunder crashed with tremendous roars, louder than is heard in other regions, the rain pelting down, making the party feel miserably cold after the heat of the day. At length a fire, left by some previous travellers, appeared in the distance. The doctor's baggage having gone on before, he had to lie down on the cold ground, when Sekeletu kindly covered him with his own blanket, remaining without shelter himself Before parting at Sesheke, the generous chief supplied the doctor with twelve oxen, three accustomed to be ridden on, hoes and beads to purchase a canoe; an abundance of fresh butter and honey ; and, indeed, he did everything in his power to assist him in his journey. Bidding farewell to Sekeletu, the doctor and his attendants sailed down the river to its confluence with the Chobe. Having reached this spot, he prepared to strike across the country to the north-east, in order to reach the northern bank of the Zambesi. Before doing so, however, he deter- mined to visit the Victoria Falls, of which he had often heard. The meaning of the African name is : " Smoke does sound there," in reference to the vapor and noise produced by the falls. ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY TO THE EAST COAST. 139 After twenty minutes sail from Kalai they came in sight of five columns GIGANTIC BAOBAB TREE AT VICTORIA FALLS. of vapor, appropriately called " smoke," rising at a distance of five or six miles off, and bending as they ascended before the wind, the tops appear- 140 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ing to mingle with the clouds. The scene was extremely beautiful. The banks and the islands which appeared here and there amid the stream, were richly adorned with trees and shrubs of various colors, many being in full blossom. High above all rose. an enormous baobab-tree surrounded by groups of graceful palms. As the water was now low, they proceeded in the canoe to an island in the centre of the river, the further end of which extended to the edge of the falls. At the spot where they landed it was impossible to discover where the vast body of water disappeared. It seemed, suddenly to sink into the earth, for the opposite lip of the fissure into which it descends was only eighty feet distant. On peering over the precipice the doctor saw the stream, a thousand yards broad, leaping down a hundred feet and then becoming suddenly compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty yards, when, instead of flowing as before, it turned directly to. the right and went boiling and rushing amid the hills. The vapor which rushes up from this cauldron to the height of two or three hundred feet, being condensed, changes its hue to that of dark smoke, and then comes down in a constant shower. The chief portion falls on the opposite side of the fissure, where grow a number of ever- green trees, their leaves always wet. The walls of this gigantic crack are perpendicular. Altogether, Livingstone considered these falls the most wonderful sight he had beheld in Africa. Returning to Kalai the doctor and his party met Sekeletu, and, bidding him a final farewell, set (201) ^02 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. broken into spray. Had one of them struck the boat, nothing could liave saved her from being swamped. *' They are liost ! They are all Dead ! '* For six hours they remained at anchor a little from the shore, thus ex- posed to the fury of the gale. The crew became sea-sick and unable to keep the boat's head to the sea, while some of their party who had remained on shore watched them, the natives every moment exclaiming : " They are lost ! they are all dead ! " After this, every night they hauled the boat up on the beach ; and, had it not been supposed that these storms were peculiar to one season, they would have given the Nyassa the name of the " Lake of Storms." .A dense population exists on the shores of the lake, some being a tribe of Zulus who came from the south some years ago. They own large herds of cattle, and are on the increase by uniting other people to them- selves. The marshy spots are tenanted by flocks of ducks, geese, cranes, herons, and numerous other birds. The people cultivate the soil, grow- ing large quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, maize and millet. Those at the north end reap a curious harvest. Clouds of what appeared to be smoke rising from miles of burning grass were seen in the distance. The appearance was caused by countless millions of midgets. As the voyagers' boat passed through them, eyes and mouth had to be kept closed. The people collect these insects by night and boil them into thick cakes, to be eaten as a relish. One of these cakes, which tasted like salted locusts, was presented to the doctor. Abundance of fish were 'caught, some with nets, and others with hook and line. Women were seen fishing, with babies on their backs. Enor- mous crocodiles were seen, but, as they can obtain abundance of fish, they seldom attack men. When, however, its proper food is scarce, the crocodile, as is always the case, becomes very dangerous. The lake tribes appear to be open-handed , and, whenever a net was drawn, fish was invariably offered. On one occasion the inhabitants, on their arrival, took out their seine, dragged it, and made their visitors a present of the entire haul. The chiefs treated them also with consider- able kindness. One at the north of Marenga, who was living in a stock- ade in a forest surrounded by a wide extent of .country, which he owned, made them beautiful presents. The doctor admiring an iron bracelet studded with copper which the chief wore, he took it off and presented it to him, while his wife did the same with hers. At one place a party of thieves stole into the camp and carried off most of their goods, no one awaking, though their rifles and revolvers' were all BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 203 ready. The cloth, having been used for pillows, escaped, but nearly all their clothing was lost, and even their note-books and specimens. On the highlands, at the northern end, a tribe of Zulus, known as the Mazitu, make sudden swoops on the villages of the plains, and carry off the inhabitants and burn villages ; and putrid bodies slain by Mazitu GIANT HERON OF AFRICA. spears were seen in all directions. In consequence of this the land party, composed of blacks, were afraid of proceeding and Livingstone accordingly landed to accompany them. While he struck inland to go round a moun- tain, the boat pursued her course; but a fresh gale compelled her to run in-shore. On continuing her voyage, a number of armed Mazitu were seen on a small island, with several large canoes belonging to them. 204 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. It was evident that it was a nest of lake pirates. Further on they met a still larger band, and the voyagers were ordered to come on shore. On refusing, a number of canoes chased them, one with nine paddles perse- vering a considerable time, till a good breeze enabled the gig to get away from them. This circumstance caused great anxiety about Dr. Livingstone. The boat party having sailed on for fifteen miles northward, he was still nowhere to be seen, and they therefore resolved to return. Another, gale, however, compelled them to put into a harbor, where a number of wretched fugitives from the slave trade, who had crossed from the oppo- site shore, were found ; but the ordinary inhabitants had been swept off by the Mazitu. In their deserted gardens cotton of a fine quality, with staple an inch and a half long, was seen growing, some of the plants deserving to be ranked with trees. The Way Beset with Dang-ers. On returning, their former pursuers tried to induce them to come on shore. Four days passed before Livingstone with two of his party dis- covered them. He had in the meantime fallen in with the Mazitu, who were armed with spears and shields, and their heads fantastically dressed with feathers. By his usual courage and determination he prevented; them from attacking him. When they demanded presents, he told them his goods were in the boat ; and when they insisted on having a coat, the Makololo enquired how many of the party they had killed, that they thus began to divide the spoil; and at last, suspecting that he had support at hand, they took to their heels. Numerous elephants, suprisingly tame, were seen on the borders of the lake even close to the village, and hippopotami swarmed in all the creeks and lagoons. Several were shot for food during the journey. Some- times food was thus abundant ; at others, a few sardines served for dinner. The doctor saw that a small armed steamer on Lake Nyassa could, by furnishing goods in exchange for ivory and other products, excercise a powerful influence in stopping the traffic in that quarter. The expedition had spent from the 2d of September to the 27th of October in exploring the lake, and their goods being now expended, it was necessary to return to the ship. On their way back they fell in with a number of Manganja families, driven from their homes by Ajawa raids, taking shelter among the papyrus growing on Lake Pamalombe, sup- porting themselves on the fine fish which abound in it. The party reached the ship on the 8th of November, but in a weak condition, having latterly suffered greatly from hunger. BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 205 They soon received a visit from the bishop, who appeared in excellent spirits, and believed that all promised well for future success. He . arranged to explore the country from Magomero to the mouth of the river, and it was agreed that the " Pioneer," her draught being too great for the upper part of the Shire, should on her next trip not go higher than Ruo. The "Pioneer*' Aground. With three hearty cheers, the " Pioneer" steamed down the river. The rain ceasing, she unfortunately ran on a shoal, and was detained in an unhealthy spot for five weeks. Here the carpenter's mate, a fine healthy young man, was seized with fever and died. A permanent rise in the river enabled them at last to get on. On reaching Ruo, they heard that Mariano had returned from Mozambique, and was desolating the right bank of the river. He had lived in luxury during his nominal imprison- ment, and was now able to set the Portuguese at defiance. An officer sent against him, instead of capturing the rebel, was captured himself, but soon returned to Tete with a present of ivory he had received. The Zambesi was reached in January, 1862, when the " Pioneer" pro- ceeded to the Great Luabo mouth of the river. Soon Her Majesty's ship " Gorgon " arrived, towing the brig which brought out Mrs. Living- stone and some ladies about to join the University mission, as well as the sections of a new iron steamer intended for the navigation of Lake Nyassa. The name of the " Lady Nyassa" was given to the new vessel. The " Pioneer," with as large a portion of the vessel as she could carry, accompanied by two of the " Gorgon's " paddle-box boats, steamed off for Ruo in February. Her progress was very slow, and six months were expended before Shupanga was reached. Here the sections of the "Lady Nyassa '^ were landed, and preparations were made to screw her together. Sad Deaths. Captain Wilson had kindly gone on in his boat to Ruo. On reaching Ruo, greatly to their dismay the chief declared that no white man had come to his village. They thence went on to Chibisa, where the sad news was received of the death of the bishop. The sad tale of the bishop's death has often been told. He had set off in the hopes of rescuing some of his flock who had been kidnapped, and, undergoing fatigue and exposure to rain far greater than his constitution could stand, having been upset in a canoe and sleeping afterwards in his wet clothes, had succumbed to fever when returning to Ruo. About the middle of April Mrs. Livingstone was attacked by fever. 206 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Notwithstanding the most skillful medical aid rendered to her, her eyes- were closed in death as the sun set on a Sabbath day, the 27th of April, 1862. Her grave was placed beneath the great baobab-tree in the spot before described. There rested the daughter of the Missionary Moffat, that Christian lady who had exercised such beneficial influence over the rude tribes of the interior, and might, it was hoped, have renewed her labors in the country to which she had come. ' The " Lady Nyassa " was now screwed together and her stores got on board ; but, as she could not be taken to the cataract before the rains in Dec^.mber, the " Pioneer " sailed for Johanna to obtain mules and oxen to convey her by land, after she had been taken to pieces, above the falls. To fill up the time the doctor resolved, on the return of the " Pioneer," to explore the Rovuma in boats. Captain Gardner and several of his officers accompanied them two days in the gig and cutter. The water was now low ; but when filled by the rains, in many respects the Rovuma appears superior to the Zambesi. It would probably be valuable as a highway for commerce during three-fourths of each year. Trip up the Rovuma. Above Kichokomane was a fertile plain, studded with a number of de- serted villages. Its inhabitants were living on low sandbanks, though they had left their property behind, fearing only being stolen themselves. They showed, however, an unfriendly spirit to the white men, not under- standing their objects. The blacks assembled on the shore, and evidently intended to attack the party as they passed the high bank, but a stiff breeze swept the boats by. Attempts were made to persuade the natives that the travellers had only peaceful intentions, that they wished to be their friends, and that their countrymen bought cotton and ivory. Not- withstanding this, these savages were not satisfied, and their leader was seen urging them to fire. Many of them had muskets, while others, who were armed with bows, held them with arrows ready set to shoot. Still the doctor and his companions were exceedingly unwilling to come to blows, and half an hour was spent, during which, at any moment, they might have been struck by bullets or poisoned arrows. The English assured them that they had plenty of ammunition, that they did not wish to shed the blood of the children of the same Great Father, and that if there was a fight, the guilt would be theirs. At last their leader ordered them to lay down their arms, and he came, saying that the river was theirs, and that the English must pay toll for leave to pass. As it was better to do so than BATTLING --V^^ITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 207 fight, the payment demanded was given, and they promised to be friends ever afterwards. The sail was then hoisted, and the boats proceeded up, when they were followed by a large party, as it was supposed merely to watch therp,. but without a moment's warning the savages fired a volley of musket- balls and poisoned arrows. Providentially they were so near that six arrows passed over their heads, and four musket-balls alone went through the sail. Their assailants immediately bolted, and did not again appear till the boats had got to a considerable distance. A few shots were fired ff='A. •>.-a.«^ ^-*=' THE PELICAN. over their heads, to give them an idea of the range of the Englishmen's rifles. They had probably expected to kill some of the party, and then in the confusion to rob the boats. They were more hospitably treated by a Makoa chief higher up, who had been to Iboe, and once to Mozambique with slaves. Ilis people refused to receive gaily-colored prints, having probably been deceived by sham ones before, preferring the plain blue stuff of which they had experience. Another old chief, on seeing them go by, laid down his gun, and when they landed approached them. They proceeded up the cataracts of the Rovuma, but finding that the 208 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. distance overland was far greater to Lake Nyassa than that by Murchi- son's Cataracts on the Shire, they considered it best to take their steamer up by that route. After having been away a month, they reached the " Pioneer " on the 9th of October. The ship's company had used dis- tilled water, and not a single case of sickness had occurred on board, while those who had been in the boats had some slight attacks. After this they put to sea and visited Johanna, returning to the fever- haunted village of Quillimane. Here they were kindly entertained by one of the few honorable Portuguese officials they met with in that region. Colonel Nunes. He came out as a cabin-boy, and, by persevering energy, has become the richest man on the East Coast. Extraordinary Sig-lit. Early in January, 1863, the "Pioneer," with the "Lady Nyassa" in tow, steamed up the Shire. The Shire marshes support prodigious numbers of many kinds of water-fowl. An hour at the mast-head unfolded novel views of life in an African marsh. Near the edge, and on the branches of some favorite tree, rest scores of plotuses and cormorants, which stretch their snake- like necks and in mute amazement turn one eye and then another towards the approaching monster. By and by the timid ones begin to fly off", or take " headers " into the stream ; but a few of the bolder, or more composed, remain, only taking the precaution to spread their wings, ready for instant flight. The pretty ardetta, of a light yellow color when at rest, but seemingly of a pure white when flying, takes wing, and sweeps across the green grass in large numbers, often showing where buffaloes and elephants are by perching on their backs. Ducks are very abundant, and being night feeders, meditate quietly by the small lagoons until startled by the noise of the steam machinery. Pelicans glide over the water catching fish, while the scopus and large herons peer intently into pools. The large black and white spur-winged goose (a constant marauder of native gardens) springs up, and circles round to find out what the disturbance can be, and then settles down again with a splash. Hundreds of linongolos rise on the wing from the clumps of reeds, or low trees, on which they build in colonies, and are speedily high in mid-air. Charming little red and yellow weavers remind one of butterflies, as they fly in and out of the tall grass, or hang to the mouths of their pen- dant nests, chattering briskly to their mates within. Kites and vultures are busy overhead, viewing the ground for their repast of carrion ; and the solemn-looking, stately-stepping flamingoes, with a taste for dead BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. W -fish or men, stalk slowly along the almost stagnant channels. Groups of. men and boys are searching diligently in various places for lotus and other roots. Some are standing in canoes, on the weed-covered ponds, spearing fish, while others are punting over the small intersecting, streams to examine their sunken fish-baskets. GROUP OF FLAMINGOES. Towards evening, hundreds of pretty little hawks are seen flying in a southerly direction, and feeding on dragon-flies and locusts. They come, apparently, from resting on the palm trees during the heat* of the day. JFIocks of scissor-bills are then also on the wing, and in ' search of food. 14 210 WONDERS. OF THE TROPICS. ploughing the water with their lower mandibles, which are nearly half ao inch longer than the upper ones. At the north-eastern end of the marsh, and about three miles from the river, commences a great forest of palm trees. It extends many miles,^ and at one point comes close to the river. The gray trunks and greea tops of this immense mass of trees give a pleasing tone of color to the view. The mountain range, which rises close behind the palms, is- generally of a cheerful green, and has many trees, with patches of a lighter tint among them, as if spots of land had once been, cultivated. The sharp angular rocks and dells on its sides have the appearance of a huge crystal broken ; and this is so often the case in Africa that one can guess pretty nearly .at sight whether a range is of the old crystalline rocks or not. The borassus, though not an oil-bearing palm, is a useful tree. The fibrous pulp round the large nuts is of a sweet, fruity taste, and is eaten by men and elephants. The natives bury the nuts until the kernels begin to sprout ; when dug up and broken, the inside resembles coarse potatoes, and is prized in times of scarcity as nutritious food. During several months of the year palm- wine, or sura, is obtained in large quantities ; when fresh, it is a pleasant drink, somewhat like champagne, and not at all intoxicating; though,, after standing a few hours, it becomes highly so. Veg-etable Champagne. Sticks, a foot long, are driven into notches in the hard outside of the tree — the inside being soft or hollow — to serve as a ladder ; the top of the fruit-shoot is cut off, and the sap, pouring out at the fresh wound,, is caught in an earthen pot, which is hung at the point. A thin slice is taken off the end, to open the pores and make the juice flow every time the owner ascends to empty the pot. Temporary huts are erected in the forest, and men and boys remain by their respective trees day and night; the nuts, fish and wine being their sole food. The Por- tuguese use the palm-wine as yeast, and it makes bread so light that it melts in the mouth like froth. Above the palm-trees, a succession of rich, low islands stud the river> Many of them are cultivated and grow maize at all times of the year. Some patches ripe are .seen, and others half-grown, or just sprouting out of the ground. The shores are adorned with rows of banana-trees, and the fruit is abundant and cheap. Many of the reedy banks are so inter- twined with convolvulus, and other creepers, as to be absolutely impene- trable. They are beautiful to the eye, a smooth wall of living greent rjsingout of the;' crystal water, and adorned with lovely flowers; but sp CURIOUS NEST OF THE FLAMINGO. (211) 212 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. dense that, if capsized in the water, one could scarcely pass through to land. Probably no tropical bird is more remarkable than the famous flamingo. The following incident is related by one of a party of travellers in Africa : Our path led through the forest near the banks of the river, of which we occasionally got glimpses. It was here of considerable width, bordered by mangrove bushes. In one or two places there were wide flits covered with reeds. Suddenly, as we passed a point of the river, I saw drawn up what had much the appearance, at the finst glance, of a regiment of soldiers, with red coats and white trousers. I "Why, where can those men have come from?" I cried out. ! A Beginaent of Birds. ■One of the party, who was near me, burst into a laugh, in which his sifters and the boys joined. "Why, those are birds," he answered. "A regiment, true enough, but of flamingoes ; and see ! they are in line, and wiir quickly march away as we approach." I A second glance showed me that he was right; and a very curious appearance they had. " See ! there is the sentinel." , As he spoke, one of the birds nearest to us issued a sound like that of a trumpet, which was taken up by the remainder; and the whole troop, expanding their flaming Avings, rose with loud clamors into the air, flying up the stream. We went on, and cutting off a bend in the river, again met it; and here our bearers declared that they must stop and rest. We accordingly encamped, though our guide warned us that we must remain but a short time, as we wished to reach some higher ground before dark. A fire was lighted for cooking; and while our meal was preparing, I, with others, went down nearer the banks to see what was to be seen. We observed on the marshy ground a little way off a high- mound, and creeping along, that we might not disturb the numerous birds which covered the banks or sat on the trees around, we caught sight of another mound, with a flamingo seated on the top of it, her long legs, instead of being tucked up as those of most birds would have been, literally astrad- dle on it. " That is one of their nests," whispered one. "The bird is a hen sitting on her eggs. Depend upon it, the troop is not far off. See, see! there are many others along the banks. What a funny appearance they have." Bed. Wings Sweeping- Throug-h. the Air. Presently a flash of red appeared in the blue sky, and looking up, we saw what might be described as a gre;at fiery triangle in the air sweeping dow^itQ^vards us. On it came, greatly diminishing its rate, and we then BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND/ DANGERS. 213 saw that it was composed of flamingoes. They hovered for a moment, then flew round and round, following one another, and gradually approached the marsh, on which they alighted. Immediately they arranged themselves as we had before seen them, in long lines, when several marched off on either side to act as sentinels, while the rest commenced fishing. We could see them arching their necks and digging their long bills into the ground, while they stirred up the mud with their webbed feet, in order to procure the water-insects on which THE MARVELLOUS SPECTRAL LEMUR. they subsist. They, however, were not the only visitors to the river. The tide was low, and on every mud-bank or exposed spot countless numbers of birds were collected — numerous kinds of gulls, herons, and long-legged cranes — besides which, on the trees were perched thousands of white birds, looking at a distance like shining white flowers. Vast flocks of huge pelicans were swimming along the stream, dipping their enormous bills into the water, and each time bringing up a fish. They have enor- mous pouches, capable of containing many pounds of their finny prey. 214 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Other forms of animal life abound in the Tropics, and not the least marvellous of these is the spectral lemur. Lemur is the name applied to about thirty species of monkeys. They are divided into five principal genera, inhabiting chiefly Madagascar, a few living in Africa and the warm regions of Asia and its archipelago. The animals have two sharp claws on each hind foot, all their other nails are flat. In their habits and economy, as well as in their hand-like paws, the lemurs are like the other monkeys. They principally differ from those animals in the shape of the head, which is somewhat like that of a dog, and in the great length of their hind legs. The latter are so long, that when the lemurs walk on all-fours, their haunches are consider- ably more elevated than the shoulders. But this structure is of great advantage to them in climbing trees. Many of the species are so active that they leap from branch to branch with a rapidity which the eye is scarcely able to follow. The lemurs derive their name from their nocturnal habits and their noiseless move- ments. They live in the depths of the forests, and only move by night, the entire day being spent in sleep. Their food consists of fruits and insects which latter they take while they are sleeping. The spectral lemur is of a grayish-brown color, and lives in some of the forests of Africa, its long tarsi, or hind legs enabling it to leap like a frog, and. its curious eyes giving it a singular appearance. Scenes Along- the River's Banks. Surrounded by such tropical scenes as we have just described, with their wonderful specimens of animal life, Livingstone pursued his way. A country once very populous was nearly deserted on account of con- tinuous raids by slave hunters. A hippopotamus was shot, and, at the end of three days, it floated. As the boat was towing it, immense numbers of crocodiles followed, and it was necessary to fire at them to keep them off. It is said that the crocodile never eats fresh meat ; indeed, the more putrid it becomes, the better he enjoys his repast, as he can thus tear the carcass more easily. The corpse of a boy was seen floating by. Several crocodiles dashed at it, fighting for their prey, and in a few seconds it disappeared. Sixty- seven of the repulsive reptiles were seen on one bank. The natives eat the animal, but few who had witnessed the horrible food on which' they banquet would willingly feed on their flesh. Their former companion, Mr. Thornton, here rejoined them. Hearing that the remaining members of the bishop's party were in want at Chi- bisa, he volunteered to carry over a supply of goats and sheep to them. (215) 216 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Overcome by the fatigues of the journey, he was attacked by fever, which terminated fatally in April, 1863. The whole of the once pleasant Shire valley was now a scene of wide- spread desolation. Fearful famine had devastated it, and the sights which met their eye in every direction were heart-rending. The ground was literally covered with human bones. Many had ended their career under the shade of trees, others under projecting crags of the hills, while others lay in their huts with closed doors, which, when opened, disclosed the mouldering corpse with a few rags round the loins, the skull fallen off ' the pillow ; the little skeleton of a child that had perished first, was rolled up in a mat between two large skeletons. Transporting the Boat Overland. Hoping that the "Lady Nyassa" might be the means of affording relief to sufferers across the lake, they hurried on with their work. She was unscrewed at a spot about five hundred yards below the first cataract, and they began to make a road over the portage of forty miles, by which she was to be carried piecemeal. Trees had to be cut down and stones removed. The first half-mile of road was formed up a gradual slope till two hundred feet above the river was reached, where a sensible difference in the climate was felt. Before much progress was made, Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone were seized with fever, and it was deemed absolutely necessary that they should be sent home. Soon afterwards Dr. Livingstone was himself attacked. The "Pioneer" meantime was roofed over and left in charge of the trustworthy gunner, Mr. Young. One day, an empty canoe was seen floating down with a woman swimming near it. The boat put off and brought her on board, when she was found to have an arrow-head in the middle of her back. A native cut it out, and, notwithstanding the fearful character of the wound, being fed liberally by Mr, Young, she re- covered. About the middle of June the remaining members of the expedition started for the upper cataracts. Cotton of superior quality was seen dropping off the bushes, with no one to gather it. The huts in several villages were found entire, with mortars and stones for pounding and grinding corn, empty corn safes and kitchen utensils, water and beer-pots untouched, but the doors were shut, as if the inhabitants had gone to search for roots or fruits and had never returned ; while in others, skele-' tons were seen of persons who died apparently while endeavoring to reach something to allay the gnawings of hunger. Several journeys had been made over the portage, when, on returning BATTLING WITH DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS. 217 to the ship in July, they received a despatch from Earl Russell, directing the return home of the expedition. Arrangements therefore were made to screw the " Lady Nyassa" together again, as the " Pioneer" could not move till the floods in December. In the meantime it was determined to make another trip to the lake in a boat to be carried overland past the cataracts. The same scenes were witnessed as before. Wild animals had taken possession of the ruins of a large village in which on their previous visit the inhabitants had been living in peace and plenty. They had no idea, having before kept closer to the river, of the number of villages, always apparently selected with a view to shade, existing in that region, all of which were now deserted- They at length reached a region which had hitherto escaped, where the people welcomed them with the greatest cordiality, and were willing to spare the small amount of food they had remaining for themselves. But even here news of war soon reached them, and they found that a tribe of Zulus, the Mazitu,. were ravaging the country, and that the inhabitants were only safe within their stockades. They soon encountered men and women carrying grain towards these fortifications, and soon they came upon dead bodies, first one and then another, lying in postures assumed in mortal agony such as no painter can produce. Terror from Savag-e Invaders. On their arrival at Chinsamba's stockade, they were told that the Mazitu had been repulsed thence the day before, and the sad sight of the numerous bodies of the slain showed the truth of the report. Chinsamba urged them not to proceed to the north-west, where the Mazitu had occupied the whole region, and they accordingly remained with him till September. After this they visited Chia Lakelet. On their way they met men and women eagerly reaping the corn in haste, to convey it to the stockades, while so much was found scattered along the paths by the Mazitu and the fugitives that some women were winnowing it from the sand. Dead bodies and burned villages showed that they were close upon the heels of the invaders. Among the reeds on the banks of the lake was seen a continuous village of temporary huts in which the people had taken refuge from their invaders. Another extensive and interesting journey was taken in the neighbor- hood of the lake, and, on their return along the shores, they found the reeds still occupied by the unhappy fugitives, who were already suffering fearfully from famine. Numbers of newly-made graves showed that 218 WONDERS OF -THE TROPICS. ■many had already perished, and others had more the appearance of Jiuman skeletons than living beings. Altogether in this expedition they travelled seven hundred and sixty miles in a straight line, averaging about fifteen miles a day, and they reached the ship on the 1st of November, where all were found in good health and spirits. They were visited on board by an Ajawa, chief named Kapeni, who asserted that he and his people would gladly receive the associates of Bishop Mackenzie as their teachers. About the middle of December news reached them of the arrival of the successor of Bishop Mackenzie, but that gentleman, after spending a few months on the top of a mountain as high as Ben Nevis, at the mouth of the Shire, where there are few or no people to be taught, returned home, while six of the boys who had been reared by Bishop Mackenzie had been deserted and exposed to the risk of falling back into heathen- ism. The poor boys, however, managed to reach the ship, expressing their sorrow that they no longer had one to look after them, remarking that Bishop Mackenzie had a loving heart, and had been more than a father to them. In January, I864, the Shire suddenly rising, the " Pioneer" was once more got underway; but, her rudder being injured, she was delayed, and did not reach Morambala till February. Here they received on board about thirty orphan boys and girls, and a few helpless widows who had been attached to Bishop Mackenzie's mission, and who could not be abandoned without bringing odium on the English name. The moment permission to embark was given, they all rushed into the boat, nearly swamping her in their eagerness to be safe on the " Pioneer's " ■deck. At the mouth of the Zambesi, they found Her Majesty's ships ^' Orestes" and ''Ariel," when the former took the " Pioneer" in tow, and the latter the " Lady Nyassa," bound for Mozambique. After encoun- tering a heavy storm, when the little vessels behaved admirably, while the " Pioneer " was sent to the Cape, the " Lady Nyassa," under charge of Dr. Livingstone, proceeded by way of Zanzibar to Bombay, which they safely reached, though at times they thought their epitaph would be: "Left Zanzibar on the 30th of April, 1864, and never more heard of" CHAPTER X. LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. Sensation Caused by Livingstone's Discoveries — New Expedition— Arrival at Zan- zibar — Hard March Across the Country — Desertion of Sepoys — Arrival on the Shores of the Lake— No Canoes— Report of Murders by Arabs— Desertions Among the Men — Story of Livingstone's Death — Excitement in England — Expe- dition Sent to Learn the Explorer's Fate — Ravages by a Savage Tribe— Thieves in the Camp— Loss of the Medicine Chest — Sufferings from Fever — Arrival at Tanganyika — A New Lake on the West — Further Progress Stopped— Patient Waiting— Off for the New Lake at Last— Down the Lake to Cazembe's— High and Mighty Potentate— Formal Reception to Livingstone— Presents to the Chief — Shocking Stories of Human Sacrifices — Cropping off Ears and Lopping off Hands — A Tribe that Smelts Copper-ore — Hot Springs and Frequent Earth- quakes — Exploring Lake Bangweolo— Grave in the Forest — " Poor Mary Lies on Shupanga Brae" — Remarkable Discovery — Modesty of the Great Explorer. 'HE excitement caused in England by Livingstone's account of all that he had seen and done in his great journeys was intense. Men of science were eager to ascertain if the lakes of the South were connected with those of Central Africa, and, if so, by what means. One and all felt that the work begun must be carried on at what- ever cost. Missionary societies prepared to send members into the new and vast fields that had been opened. On every side arose a cry for new men, willing to risk their lives in the common cause of humanity and geographical discovery. With the missionaries who responded to this appeal we have not now to deal, though we are glad to be able to add that quite a little colony went to work on the shores of the Nyassa. Our task is merely to trace the further progress of the solution of the great problems of Central African geography, and it is with feelings of mingled joy and regret that we resume our narrative of the career of one of the greatest of all our heroes. We rejoice that Livingstone was spared to add yet another chapter to geographical science; we bitterly regret that our gain was purchased atj the cost of a life so valuable as his. ! On his return to England in 1864, the great explorer would fain havej retired from active service, and spent the evening of his life in settling the pecuniary affairs of his family and enjoying the society of his children. When asked by his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, president of the Royal Geographical Society, to name a leader for a new expedition to (219) 220 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. resolve the problem of the watershed between the Nyassa and Tangan- yika, Livingstone at once fixed upon an eminent traveller, whose name is for obvious reasons withheld. That traveller declined to undertake the mission because no sufficient remuneration was offered for his services, and in his disappointment, Sir Roderick appealed to Livingstone. Why could not he, who had already done so much, undertake this one more journey? Who so fit to complete the work as the experienced ex- plorer who had begun it? Resolve to Return to Africa. For a moment, but only for a moment, our hero hesitated, and then he urged, almost apologetically, all the reasons against the undertak- ing of fresh responsibility by a man of the advanced age of fifty-three, who was already worn out by the fatigues of two previous jour- neys, each extending over several years. All objections were, how- ever, overruled, and before the interview closed Livingstone had con- sented to start for Zanzibar as soon as his book on the Zambesi was published. For this new expedition the English Government subscribed the sum of ;^2,500, the Royal Geographical Society ^$2,500, and a private friend ^5,000. Its main object was to explore the country between the Nyassa and Tanganyika, with a view to determining the relation of the two lakes to each other, but from first to last Livingstone never lost sight of the question — to him of equal importance — of the best means for benefiting the barbarous races in Africa. Our hero left England for the third and last time in August, 1865, scarcely more than a year after his return home from his Zambesi journey, and arrived in Zanzibar in January, 1866. He proposed penetrating to the Nyassa by way of the Rovuma River and those districts on the east of the lake inhabited by the dreaded Ajawa, but, except for this mere outline of a plan, he determined to be guided by circumstances, knowing from many a provoking experience how seldom any programme can be accurately carried out in African travel. Kindly received by the Sultan of Zanzibar, to whom he had first-rate letters of introduction, Livingstone was able to make the necessary arrangements for his journey with great rapidity, and by the beginning of March he had in his service, in addition to thirteen Sepoys from India, ten Johanna men, two Shapunga men, one of them the now celebrated Susi, two Wayans, the Chumah who with Susi remained with his master to the last, and a Wakatani. -An Arab dhow was purchased for the transit to the Rovuma of the animals, consisting of six camels, three (221) 222 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. buffaloes, two mules, and four donkeys, and large stores of merchandise and provisions. No pains, in short, were spared to ensure success, and on the 1 8th of March all was ready for the start. The Expedition Starts. The explorer and his retinue crossed from Zanzibar to the main land in Her Majesty's ship " Penguin," and after a rather disheartening exami- nation of the mouths of the Rovuma, Mikindany Bay, twenty-five miles above them, was fixed upon as the best spot for disembarkation. Living- stone and his people landed, the " Penguin " took her leave, and the work of the expedition may be said to have begun. A house on the sea-shore was hired at the rate of four dollars a month to form a kind of permanent storehouse ; the animals were disembarked from the dhow, carriers were engaged, and early in April the march to the south was commenced. The caravan wound slowly through dense jungle, which had to be cut down for the passage of the camels, though it offered no serious obstruc- tion to the men of the party, and, halting now at one, now at another Makonde village, arrived on the banks of the Rovuma, opposite the furthest point reached by the " Pioneer" in 1866. The course was now due west, along the edge of " that ragged outline of table-land " which had been seen on the previous expedition as flanking both sides of the river. A rough path led, in winding fashion, from one village to another, all inhabited by Makonde, a degraded negro race, knowing nothing — though they are in constant intercourse with Arabs — of God, of a future state, or of the commonest usages of civilized life. They pray to their mothers when dying or in distress, and believe implicitly in the power of their doctors over life and death. The head- man of every village was also the doctor. Livingstone made several attempts to teach the Makonde the first principles of rehgion, but his ignorance of their language rendered all his efforts unsuccessful. Cruel Drivers. In the middle of April the caravan turned southwards, and for the next two months a south-westerly course was pursued, through a mountainous and well- wooded country, peopled by the Mtambwe, said to be a branch of the Makonde. In this march the chief difficulty with which our hero had to contend was the cruelty of his men to the animals, many of which were lamed by blows from their drivers, but whether with a view to retarding the journey, or from a wanton love of inflicting suffering, it was impossible to decide. The camels often came back from pasture bleeding from newly-inflicted wounds, and the buffaloes and mules were also soon, covered with sores. LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 223: In May a country comparatively free of wood was entered, in whicb it was possible to advance without perpetual cutting and clearing, and the same month the highest point of the Rovuma reached by the " Pioneer" in 1862 was passed. Beyond came districts hitherto totally unknown tO' Europeans — though Roscher is supposed to have been in their neigh- borhood — where the natives, though not exactly unfriendly, did not readily supply food to the exploring party. Much coaxing and bargain- ing were required to obtain needed supplies, which were not always of the best quality, yet they were always dear. The country was suffering; 224 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. from drought, and the people were in daily fear of raids from the Mazitu, a warlike race living on the southern banks of the Rovuma, who plunder and murder the surrounding tribes with savage recklessness. Miserably short marches were all that could be made on the small rations to which Livingstone was now obliged to reduce his men, but finally, all difficulties surmounted, the junction with the Loendi, supposed to be the parent stream of the Rovuma, was reached, and, crossing it with the help of a friendly chief called Matumora, our hero hoped to make his way rapidly to Lake Nyassa, across the southern bank of the Rovuma. Mutiny Among- tlie Sepoys. But now the Sepoys, who had long shown signs of insubordination, -declared they would go no further, and inquiry revealed that they had offered Ali, the leader of the retinue, eight rupees to take them to the 'Coast. The Nassick boys followed their example. They would not go on to be starved; Livingstone must pay their wages and let them go. By continued threats and promises, however, a truce was patched up for a time, and the whole party crept on along the southern bank of the Rovuma till the i8th June, when one of the Nassick boys died, and the Sepoys again rebelled! To make a long story short, we may add that, after several vain attempts to bind them to his service, Livingstone finally consented to the return of the Indians to Zanzibar, and that those who survived the journey to the coast arrived there in August or Sep- tember. They appear j^o have suffered greatly, and to have had some excuse for their unwillingness to proceed further in a country where death from starvation was the least of many evils to be feared. Pressing on with his reduced numbers, Livingstone followed the course of the Rovuma until the 1st July. Then leaving the river he entered the Ajawa country, and, traversing it in a south-westerly direction, came to Lake Nyassa at the confluence of the Nishinge, in August, to find him- self once more amongst the friendly Mangahja, to whom he had rendered such great services in 1861. The practicability of the shorter route to the Nyassa from the eastern coast was now proved beyond a doubt, and, overjoyed by the successful termination of the first stage of his journey, Livingstone eagerly set about endeavoring to cross the lake, hoping to reach an Arab settlement which he knew to exist on the western shore, with a view to making it the starting-point for Tanganyika. In this plan our hero was disappointed. After trying for nearly a •month to persuade first one and then another native chief to lend him a LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 225 -canoe, Livingstone finally determined to go southwards round Cape Maclear and ascend the lake on the other side. In this he was success- ful, and we soon find him marching across the base of the promontory, with the singular addition to his retinue of two Ajawa, who acted as guides and carriers, much to their own surprise, and that of everybody else, this tribe seldom condescending to do any work but fighting. A Courteous Chief. The village of Marenga, situated at the eastern edge of the bottom of the heel of the lake, was entered, inhabited by a tribe called Babisa, who had lately joined with the Ajawa in their raids upon the Manganja. The chief of this village, who was suffering from a loathsome skin disease introduced into the country by the Arabs, received Livingstone cour- teously, but allowed him to proceed northwards without warning him that the Mazitu were ravaging the country through which he must pass. Late in September an Arab met the party, and told Musa, one of the Johanna men, that all who ventured further would certainly be murdered ; forty-four Arabs had been killed at Kasungu ; he only had escaped to tell the tale. Surprised that he had heard nothing of this from Marenga, and half suspecting foul play, Livingstone lost no time in returning to that chief to inquire if there were any foundation for the story. The reply received was to the effect that it might be true. The natives were very bitter against the Arabs, who were gradually destroying their countiy. They would allow no more to settle amongst them, but their hostility would not extend to Livingstone or his people, and there were no Mazitu where he was going. Completely reassured himself, Livingstone determined to proceed, but the Johanna men had taken alarm. " Musa's eyes stood out with terror." He said, speaking of Marenga, " I no can believe that man ; " and when Livingstone inquired how he came to give such ready credence to the Arab, he answered, " I ask him to tell me true, and he say true, true." Reasoning and persuasion were alike in vain. Convinced that they and their master were doomed, the Johanna resolutely declined to go further and when the start was again made they went off in a body, leaving their loads on the ground. Report of Livingstone's Death. This was the true origin of the report, long believed in England, of the murder of Livingstone by natives on the western shores of Lake Nyassa. The deserters made their way back to Zanzibar, and, anxious to excuse 15 226 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. their own conduct, and explain their sudden return, related the foUowirig' plausible story : The expedition had safely reached Lake Nyassa and crossed it. The doctor then pushed on westwards, and in course of time reached Goo- mani, a fishing village on a river. The people of Goomani warned Livingstone that the Mafites, a wandering predatory tribe, were out on a plundering expedition, and that it would not be safe to continue the jour- ney ; but the dangers thus presented to view were not of a nature to deter a man who had braved so many before. Treating the warnings as of little moment, therefore, he crossed the river in canoes the next morn- ing, with his baggage and his train of followers. All the baggage animals had perished from want of water before this river was reached, so that the luggage had to be carried by the men. Being a fast walker, Livingstone soon distanced all his heavily-laden followers except Musa,, and two or three others who kept up with him. Musa's Story. The march had continued some distance, when Dr. Livingstone saw three armed men ahead, and thereupon he called out to Musa, " The Mafites are out after all ! " These were the last words he uttered. The Mafites, armed with bows and arrows and axes, closed upon the doctor, who drew his revolver and shot two. The third, however,, got behind him, and with one blow from an axe clove in his head. The wound was mortal, but the assassin quickly met his own doom, for a bullet from Musa's musket passed through his body, and the murderer fell dead beside his victim. Musa added that the doctor died instantly, and that, finding the Mafites- were out, he ran back to the baggage-men, and told them that their master had been killed. The baggage was then abandoned, and the whole party sought safety by a hasty flight, which they continued till sunset,, when they took refuge for the night in a jungle. The next day they returned to the scene of the disaster, and found Livingstone's body lying; on the ground naked but for the trousers, the rest of his clothing having" been stolen. A hole was hastily " scratched " in the ground, and the explorer was buried. No papers or any other means of identification were recovered, and, broken-hearted at the loss of their beloved master, the Johanna men started for the coast, enduring great hardships by the way, but finally arriving safely in Zanzibar. To this tale all the faithless servants adhered through one cross-exami- nation after another, and it was very generally believed, until Sir Roder- ick Murchison, in a letter to the. Times, pointed out several flaws in the (227) 228 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. ingenious fabrication, proposing at the same time that an expedition should be sent to the western shores of Lake Nyassa to examine into the truth of the report. The English Government promptly seized this sug- gestion; volunteers were called for, and hundreds of brave men eagerly offered their services. Mr. Edward Daniel Young was selected to take the command, and left England on the nth of June, 1869. Young's Search Expedition. In a trip extending over less than five months, the gallant officer com- pletely proved the falsity of Musa's account, obtained trustworthy evi- dence of Livingstone's continued health and activity, and in October embarked for England, where the news he brought was received with unbounded enthusiasm. Meanwhile, Livingstone, ignorant alike of the report of his death and of the efforts being made on his behalf, quietly reflects in his journal that he is not sorry to have got rid of the Johanna men, they were such invet- erate thieves. Pressing on with his small retinue, now reduced to the surviving Nassick boys and the Shapunga and Ajawa men, Livingstone reached a village at the foot of Mount Mulundini, on the west of the heel of the Nyassa, and, obtaining there confirmation of the reports of disturbances on the north, determined to go west amongst the Manganja, here called Maravi. This resolution was attended with the best results. Courteously received at every village, and supplied with guides to the next, our hero passed safely through a beautiful mountainous country, till he came to the hamlet of Pamiala, where he turned southwards, and, pursuing a zig-zag course, reached Chipanga, the most southerly point of his journey. A short march westward from Chipanga, brought the party to a village called Theresa, beyond which the course was north-easterly, and through districts hitherto totally unknown to Europeans. One river after another, flowing towards Lake Nyassa, was crossed, and all seemed likely to go well, when, in October, after a successful hunt, in which a fine hartebeest antelope was shot, came news, from villagers flying southwards for their lives, that the Mazitu were out and close at hand. Alarm and Flig^lit. The servants, who were eagerly anticipating a hearty supper, such as rarely fell to their lot, started to their feet, the half-cooked meat was hastily packed, and Livingstone and his guide Mpanda set out to engage extra carriers to aid in the retreat. As they approached the next village, however, the inhabitants poured LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 229 out. The Mazitu were there, too, and the terrified people were fleeing to the Zalanyama mountains, on the south-west. Mpanda and his men now wished to go home and look after their own property, but Livingstone managed to persuade them to remain, and follow with him " the spoor of the fugitives." Taking his stand at the foot of the rocky sides of the Zalanyama range, now crowded with trembling natives, our hero intended to defend his property to the last ; but after waiting some time he heard that the enemy had gone to the south. Had he carried out his first scheme of going forward in search of men, he would have walked LIVINGSTONE AND HIS MEN CROSSING SPONGE. Straight into the hands of the Mazitu, and his fate would probably have differed but little from that assigned to him in Musa's story. Most of the region before these mountains are reached is lowlands, and filled with "sponges;" Livingstone's description of the latter will stand the reader in good stead when he comes to the constant mention of these obstructions in the later travels towards the north. They were among the most formidable obstacles he had to encounter, and at times greatly impeded his progres " The bogs, or earthen sponges, of this country, occupy a most important part in its physical geography, and probably explain the 230 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. annual inundations of most of the rivers. Wherever a plain sloping towards a narrow opening in hills or higher ground exists, there we have the conditions requisite for the formation of an African sponge. The vegetation, not being of a healthy or peat-forming kind, falls down, rots, and then forms rich black loam. In many cases a mass of this loam, two or three feet thick, rests on a bed of pure river sand, which is revealed by crabs and other aquatic animals bringing it to the surface. At present, in the dry season, the black loam is cracked in all direc- tions, and the cracks are often as much as three inches wide, and very deep. " The whole surface has now fallen down, and rests on the sand, but when the rains come, the first supply is nearly all absorbed in the sand. The black loam forms soft slush, and floats on the sand. The narrow opening prevents it from moving off in a landslip, but an oozing spring rises at that spot. All the pools in the lower portion of this spring- course are filled by the first rains, which happen south of the equator when the sun goes vertically over any spot. The second, or greater rains, happen in his course north again, when all the bogs and river- courses being wet, the supply runs off, and forms the inundation : this was certainly the case as observed on the Zambesi and Shire, and, taking the different times for the sun's passage north of the equator, it explains the inundation of the Nile." So saturated was the soil with moisture, that for days solid land was not to be found. Where Jhere was not absolute swamp and mire, the ground was covered with a matted green carpet — a thin crust of vegeta- tion and soil covering " the waters under the earth " — which rose and fell a foot at each step. These treacherous places had to be crossed with a light step, and without pausing, for at the least delay the foot might slip through the floating mass, and the unhappy traveller plunge up to the armpits in mire. Fire and Desolation. As the journey westward was pursued, the smoke of burning villages on the east and on the south plainly marked the course of the marauders, and, thankful for his narrow escape, Livingstone pressed on as rapidly as possible to the village of Mapino, beyond which he could only advance very slowly, as the country was thinly peopled, and food and water were scarce. The constant raids of marauders from the north and the visits of Arab slave-traders from the south had, moreover, rendered the natives suspicious and inhospitable, but, as in his previous journeys, Living- stone everywhere succeeded in overcoming the prejudice against white LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 231 men, and convincing the poor down-trodden people that he meant them nothing but good. In November, the foot of Mount Chisia was reached, and a halt was made at a blacksmith's or founder's village, where Livingstone was inter- ested in witnessing the primitive native mode of smelting iron, and was watching the erection of a furnace on an ant-hill, when the feeling of security was again dispelled by tidings of the approach of the Mazitu. They were already, said the messenger, at the village on the north, which was to have been the next halting-place. The head-man of the village at once urged Livingstone to remain with him till it was certain which path the hated invaders would take, and the women were all sent away, whilst the men went on quietly with their usual occupations. No Mazitu came, but an elephant approached Livingstone's camp and " screamed at him," making off, however, at the shouting of the villagers. The next morning the march was resumed, and the Mazitu having been fortunately avoided, the source of the Bua, a tributaiy of the Loangwa, was reached, beyond which a halt was made outside a stockaded village, where the people refused to admit our hero until the head-man came and gave permission. This was a foretaste of many similar difficulties, but slowly, very slowly, step by step and inch by inch, the advance north- wards continued, now broken by illness, now hindered by roundabout excursions in search of the way. A Serious Loss. In December, the banks, of the Loangwa were sighted, and, unable to obtain food at the village on its eastern shores, Livingstone crossed the stream without a guide, and beyond it entered a " pathless, bushy country," where the way had to be cut step by step by the almost faint- ing travellers. To give the merest outlines of the^ difficulties surmounted, the dangers escaped, and the privations endured as the gallant little band advanced further and further into the unknown interior, would be to fill a volume. We must content ourselves with stating that a climax appears to have been reached in January, 1867, when, after plodding on under heavy rains through a famine-stricken country, and crossing the river Cham- beze, afterwards under its name of the Lualaba discovered to be of such vast importance, which comes down from the western slope of Lobisa, our hero was deserted by the two Ajawa men mentioned as having joined his party at Lake Nyassa. The loss of two carriers was bad enough, but, to complicate matters still further, they took with them the 232 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. medicine-box for the sake of the cloth, and some clothes belonging to a boy named Baraka, in which were packed a quantity of flour, the tools,, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch. Livingstone, in relating the incident in his journal, remarks pathetically that the thieves would, of course, only throw away the valuable contents of the medicine-box when they discovered their nature, adding that he felt as if he had now received the sentence of death. " There can be little doubt," says Mr. Waller, editor of Livingstone's Journal, " that the severity of his subsequent illnesses mainly turned upon the loss of his medicines, and it is hardly too much to believe that his constitution from this time was steadily sapped by the effects of fever- poison which he was powerless to counteract, owing to the want of quinine." Before quoting Livingstone's account of this loss it may be well to explain that after the desertion of the Johanna men he was obliged to rely on the natives through whose districts he passed not only for guides but for porters. The following is the narrative : " A guide refused, so we marched without one. The two Waiyau, who joined us at Kande's village, now deserted. They had been very faithful all the way, and took our part in every case. Knowing the lan- guage well, they were extremely, useful, and no one thought that they would desert, for they were free men — their masters had been killed by the Mazitu — and this circumstance, and their uniform good conduct, made us trust them more than we should have done any others who had been slaves. But they left us ir^the forest, and heavy rain came on, which obliterated every vestige of their footsteps. To make the loss more gall- ing, they took what we could least spare — the medicine-box^ which they would only throw away as soon as they came to examine their booty. The Thieves Escape. " One of these deserters exchanged his load that morning v/ith a boy called Baraka, who had charge of the medicine-box, because he was so careful. This was done, because with the medicine-chest were packed five large cloths and all Baraka's clothing and beads, of which he was very careful. The Waiyau also offered to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, while he gave his own load, in which there was no cloth, in exchange. The forest was so dense and high, there was no chance of getting a glimpse of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a large box of powder, the flour we had purchased dearly to help us as far as the Chambeze, the tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch ; but the medicine- chest was the sorest loss of all ! I felt as if I had now received the sen- ^tence of death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie. LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 233 "All the other goods I had divided in case of loss or desertion, but had never dreamed of losing the precious quinine and other remedies; other losses and annoyances I felt as just parts of that undercurrent of vexations which is not wanting in even the smoothest life, and certainly not worthy of being moaned over in the experience of an explorer anxious to benefit a country and people — but this loss I feel most keenly." Every effort was made to intercept the runaways and recover the precious box; but they were fruitless, and it was not until Living- stone met Stanley at Ujiji five years later that he was again supplied with those medicines without which travel in Africa is so deadly. After crossing the Chambeze Livingstone found himself in a country called Lobemba, and late in January reached the village of the head chief Chitapanga. Chitapanga gave the travellers a grand reception and made a favorable impression upon Livingstone at first by his jolly good- nature; but subsequently he exhibited on a small scale all the rapacity of Kamrasi, and Livingstone was glad to get away after a stay of a few days. IntervicTT \vith a Great Chief. The stockade of Chitapanga was quite a formidable-looking structure. Besides a triple stockade, the village' was defended by a deep, broad ditch, and hedge of thorny shrub. The messengers from the great chief soon approached to inquire if the traveller desired an audience, and instructing him that their custom required every one to take something in his hand the first time he came before so great a man as Chitapanga. Being tired from marching, Liv- ingstone deferred his visit to the chief until evening. At. 5 p. m. he sent notice of his coming. Passing through the inner stockade and then on to an enormous hut, he entered the presence of the chief His Majesty was seated on the three-legged stool, which is one of the peculiar institu- tions of the country. Near him were three drummers, beating furiously, and ten or more men with odd-looking rattles in their. hands, with which they kept time to the drums, while seated and standing all about in the background were hundreds of eager subjects, who gazed with deepest interest on the reception. A noticeable feature of the ceremony was the regular approaching and receding of the rattlers, who seemed to give to their chief some special reverence by advancing toward him and holding their toy-looking instruments quite near the ground, While they kept up still with the drummers. Chitapanga was a strongly-built burly-looking fellow, with a jolly, laughing face. Livingstone was seated on a huge tusk, and the talk 234 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. began. He found little difficulty in interesting the chief in those things which he had to tell, and was treated with a respect and cordiality which impressed him very favorably with him. When they had got a little acquainted, the chief walked with his visitor toward a group of cows and with a generous air pointed out one and said, ".That is yours." Various circumstances conspired to protract the stay of Livingstone twenty days at this village. Though quite favorably impressed with Chitapanga, the necessity of holding all his interviews through others gave rise to serious annoyances. He was particulaily troubled and vexed, after killing the cow which had been given him, by the chief's demand- ing a blanket for it. This was more annoying because he had none except such as belonged to the men who were with him. Tricks of Jjying Interpreters. This demand was pressed, however, and it at length turned out that one of the Nassick lads, who had acted as interpreter at their interviews, had not stated the conversation correctly. The chief had given the cow, expecting a blanket, but the boy had said to Livingstone, " He says you may give him any little thing you please." This presumptuous interference of interpreters is one of the most serious annoyances of travelling in any country; particularly is it so in Africa: not only Dr. Livingstone but many travellers there have been greatly troubled by it. At this village Livingstone met a party of small black Arab slave- traders from Bagamoio, on the coast near Zanzibar, by whom he was able to send a packet of lettersi, which reached England safely and greatly relieved the public mind concerning the great traveller, who had been reported dead by Musa after he had so heartlessly deserted him near Nyassa. These Arab traders had come into the country by a much nearer route : a route too which was full of villages and people who had plenty of goats. By these men Livingstone ordered another supply of cloth and beads and a small quantity of coffee and sugar, candles, pre- served meats, etc., with some medicines, to be sent to Ujiji. Little else occurred during the stay with Chitapanga worthy of special mention. The frequent returns of illness were nothing uncommon now. It was sad indeed to be so great a sufferer, and deprived of the relief which he could have found in his medicine-box. We cannot imagine a more painful experience than the consciousness of failing health in a far away heathen land without a single remedy at hand. At length, after repeated misunderstandings and compromises with Chitapanga, all growing out of the unpardonable interference of the boys, who presumed to interpret the conversation according to their ideas of (235) 236 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. what it was best should be said, Dr. Livingstone prepared to leave. He says : " I told the chief before starting that my heart was sore because he was not sending me away so cordially as I liked. He at once ordered men to start with us, and gave me a brass knife with ivory sheath, which he had long worn as a memorial. He explained that we ought to go north as, if we made easting, we should ultimately be obliged to turn west, and all our cloth would be expended ere we reached the Lake Tan- ganyika; he took a piece of clay off the ground and rubbed it on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true, and came along with us to see that all was right ; and so we parted." The Bold Discoverer Turned Aside. Holding a north-westerly course from this point, numerous small rivers and rivulets were crossed, and in March, he came in sight of Lake Liemba, which subsequent exploration proved to be the southern ex- tremity of Tanganyika. It was Livingstone's desire to march up the shore of the lake and discover at once what its northern connections were ; but news of a Mazitu raid in that direction compelled him to desist, and he concluded to strike westward, visit Casembe, and explore Lake Moero, of which he had already heard rumors. This plan he carried out fully, in spite of many delays; and after his arrival at Casembe's town, he wrote a despatch to Lord Clarendon, dated Decem- ber loth, 1867 (which, however, was never sent), in which he gives an epitomized description of rfiis travels, and of his stay at Casembe. This despatch is especially valuable because it treats of the geography of the whole district between Lakes Nyassa and Moero, and we reproduce it nearly entire : The altitude of this upland is from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above the level of the sea. It is generally covered with forest, well watered by numerous rivulets, and comparatively cold. The soil is very rich, and yields abundantly wherever cultivated. This is the watershed between the Loangwa, a tributary of the Zambesi, and several rivers which flow towards the north. Of the latter, the most remarkable is the Chambeze, for it assists in the formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times in the five or six hundred miles of its course. On leaving Lobemba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded north- wards, perceived by the barometers and the courses of numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction. A friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that I wished to visit Lake Liemba, which lies in his country, gave his son with a large escort to guide me thither ; LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 237 and early in April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in which the lake reposes. The descent is 2,000 feet, and still the surface of the water is upwards of 2,500 feet above the level of the sea. Beautiful Cascades. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes the rocks run the whole 2,000 feet sheer down to the water. Nowhere is there three miles of level land from the foot of the cliffs to the shore, but top, sides, and bottom are covered wjth well-grown wood and grass, except where the bare rocks protrude. The scenery is extremely beautiful. A stream of fifteen yards broad and thigh deep came down alongside our precipitous path, and formed cascades by leaping 300 feet at a time. These, with the bright red of the clay schists among the greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause and remark with wonder. Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants abound on the steep slopes ; and hippopotomi, crocodiles, and fish swarm in the water. Gnus may live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The elephants sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap their big ears just outside the village stock- ades. One got out of our way on to a comparatively level spot, and then stood and roared at us. Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of man. The first village we came to on the banks of the lake had a grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm-tree was not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of the fruit passed the door of my 'hut which required two men to carry it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the West Coast. Most of the natives live on two islands, where they cultivate the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. We remained six weeks oh the shores of the lake, trying to pick up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into Ulungu after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an Englishman had preceded them, naturally inquired where I was. But our friends, the Biiulungu, suspect- ing that mischief was meant, stoutly denied that they had seen anything of the sort; and then became very urgent that I should go on to one of the inhabited islands for safety. Cunniug- Natives. I regret that I suspected them of intending to make me a prisoner there, which they could easily have done by removing the canoes; but when the villagers who deceived the Arabs told me afterwards with an air of triumph how nicely they had managed, I saw that they had only been anxious for my safety. On three occasions the same friendly dis- position was shown ; and when we went round the west side of the lake 238 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. in order to examine the arm or branch above referred to, the head-man at the confluence of the Lofu protested so strongly against my going — the Arabs had been fighting, and I might be mistaken for an Arab, and killed — that I felt half-inclined to believe him. Two Arab slaves entered the village the same afternoon in search of ivory, and confirmed all he had said. We now altered our course, intending to go south about the district disturbed by the Arabs. When we had gone 60 miles we heard that the head-quarters of the Arabs were 22 miles farther. They had found ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west, till attacked by a chief named Nsama, whom they beat in his own stockade. They were now at a loss which way to turn. On reaching Chitimba's village, I found them about 600 in all ; and, on presenting a letter I had from the Sultan of Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions, beads, and cloth. They approved of my plan of passing to the south of Nsama's country, but advised waiting till the effects of punishment, which the Baulungu had resolved to inflict on Nsama for breach of public law, were known. It had always been understood that whoever brought goods into the country was to be protected ; and two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's, the son of Kasonso, our guide, marched in with his contingent. It was anticipated that Nsama might flee ; if to the north, he would leave me a free passage through his country ; if to the south, I might be saved from walking into his hands. Not AnxLou§ to Marry an African Belle. But it turned out that Nsama was anxious for peace. He had sent two men with elephants' tusks to begin a negotiation ; but treachery was suspected, and they were shot down. Another effort was made with ten goats, and repulsed. This was much to the regret of the head Arabs. It was fortunate for me that the Arab goods were not all sold, for Lake Moero lay in Nsama's country, and without peace no ivory could be bought, nor could I reach the lake. The peace-making between the people and Arabs was, however, a tedious process, occupying three and a half months drinking each other's blood. I thought that had I been an Arab I could easily swallow that, but not the next means of cementing the peace — marrying a black wife. Nsama's daughter was the bride, and she turned out very pretty. She came riding pickaback on a man's shoulders ; this is the most dignified conveyance that chiefs and their families can command. She had ten maids with her, each carrying a basket of provisions, and all having the same beautiful features as herself. She was taken by the principal Arab, LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 239 but soon showed that she preferred her father to her husband, for seeing- preparations made to send off to purchase ivory, she suspected that her father was to be attacked, and made her escape. I then visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people coming near A CHIEFS MOST DIGNIFIED CONVEYANCE. him, took only three of my eight attendants. His people were very much afraid of fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to see if I had any con- cealed on my person. Nsama is an old man, with head and face like those sculptured on the Assyrian monuments. He has been a great 240 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. conqueror in his time, and with bows and arrows was invincible. He is said to have destroyed many native traders from Tanganyika, but twenty Arab guns made him flee from his own stockade, and caused a great sensation in the country. He was much taken with my hair and woolen clothing; but his people, heedless of his scolding, so pressed upon us that we could not converse, and, after promising to send for me to talk during the night, our inter- view ended. He promised guides to Moero, and sent us more provisions than we could carry ; but showed so much distrust, that after all we went without his assistance.. Remarkably Handsome Natives. Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many- of the men have as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly of Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands and feet. None of the West-coast ugliness, from which most of our ideas of the Negroes are derived, is here to be seen. No prognathous jaws nor lark heels offend the sight. My observations deepened the impression first obtained from the remarks of Winwood Reade, that the typical Negro is seen in the ancient Egyptian, and not in the ungainly forms which grow up in the unhealthy swamps of the West Coast. Indeed it is probable that this upland forest region is the true home of the Negro. The women excited the admiration of the Arabs. They have fine, small, well-formed features; their great defect is one of fashion, which does not extend to the next tribe ; they file their teeth to points, the hussies, and that makes their smile like that of the crocodile. Nsama's country is called Itawa. From the large population he had under him, Itawa is in many parts well cleared of trees for cultivation, and it is lower than Ulungu, being generally about 3,000 feet above the sea. Long lines of tree-covered hills raised some 600 or 700 feet above these valleys of denudation, prevent the scenery from being monotonous. Large game is abundant. Elephants, buffaloes and zebras grazed in large numbers on the long sloping banks of a river called Chisera, a mile and a half broad. In going north, we crossed this river, or rather marsh, which is full of papyrus plants or reeds. Our ford was an elephant's path ; and the roots of the papyrus, though a carpet to these animals, were sharp and sore to feet usually protected by shoes, and often made us shrink and flounder into holes chest deep. The Chisera forms a larger mars'h west of this, and it gives off its water to the Kalongosi, a feeder of Lake Moero. The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory ; but their LIVINGSTONE LOST 'IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 241 victory over Nsama had created a panic among the tribes, which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had been routed by twenty Arab guns, no one could stand before them but Casembe ; and Casembe had issued strict orders to his people not to allow the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his country. They did not attempt to force their way. CASEMBE DRESSED TO RECEIVE LIVINGSTONE. but after sending friendly messages and presents to different chiefs, when these were not cordially received, turned off in some other direction, and at last, despairing of more ivory, turned homewards. From first to last they were extremely kind to me, and showed all due respect to the Sultan's letter. 16 242 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe that it was thought well to ascertain the length of the lake, and see Casembe too. We came up between the double range that flanks the east of the lake ; but mountains and plains are so covered with well-grown forest that we could seldom see it. We reached Casembe's town late in November. It stands near the north end of a lakelet ; this is from one to three miles broad, and some six or seven long; it is full of sedgy islands,, and abounds in fish. The town of Casembe covers a mile square of cassava plantations, the huts being dotted over that space. Some have square enclosures of reeds, but no attempt has been made at arrangement ; it might be called a rural village rather than a town. No estimate could be formed by counting the huts, they are so irregularly planted, and hidden by cassava; but my impression from other collections of huts was that the population wa's under a thousand souls. The court or compound of Casembe — some would call it a palace — is a square enclosure of 300 yards by 200 yards. It is surrounded by a hedge of high reeds. His Koyal Hig-liness Casembe. Inside, where Casembe honored me with a grand reception, stands a gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score of small huts for domestics. The queen's hut stands behind that of the chief, with a number of small huts also. Most of the enclosed space is covered with a plantation of cassava and cotton. Casembe sat before his hut on a square seat placed on lion and leopard skins. He was clothed in a coarse blue and white Manchester print edged with red baize, and arranged in large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on wrong side formost His arms, legs, and head were covered with sleeves, leggings and cap made of various colored beads in neat patterns. Each of his head-men came forward, shaded by a huge,, ill-made umbrella, and followed by his dependants, made obeisance to Casembe, and sat down on his right and left : various bands of musicians did the same. When called upon I rose and bowed, and an old counsellor, with his ears cropped, gave the chief as full an account as he had been able to gather during our stay of the English in general, and my antecedents in particular. My having passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe,. and visited chiefs of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most atten- tion. He then assured me that I was welcome to his country, to go where I liked, and do what I chose. We then went to an inner apart- ment, where the articles of my present were exhibited in detail. He had examined them privately before, and we knew that he was satisfied. LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 243 They consisted of eight yards of orange-colored serge, a large striped tablecloth ; another large cloth made at Manchester in imitation of West Coast native manufacture, which never fails to excite the admiration of Arabs and natives, and a large richly gilded comb for the back hair, such as ladies wore fifty years ago : this was given to me by a friend at Liver- pool, and as Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the hair into large knobs behind, I was sure that this article would tickle the fancy. Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again bade me welcome. Friglitful Stories of Human Sacrifices. The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to have varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had 20,000 trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacrificed twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing of human sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present Casembe could bring a thousand stragglers into the field. When he usurped power five years ago, his country was densely peopled ; but he was so severe in his puishments — cropping the ears, lopping off the hands, and other mutilations, selling the children for very slight offences, that his subjects gradually dispersed themselves in the neighboring countries beyond his power. This is the common mode by which tyranny is cured in parts like these, where fugitives are never returned. The present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of the ivory with his sul ordinates. The elephant hunters have either left him or neglect hunting, so he has no tusks to sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika. Major Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears to have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no other of his nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose much by remaining away, for a little ivory and slaves are all that Casembe ever can have to sell. About a month to the west of this the people of Katanga smelt copper-ore (malachite) into large bars shaped like the capital letter I, They may be met with of from 50 lbs. to 100 lbs. weight all over the country, and the inhabitants draw the copper into wire for armlets and leglets. Gold is also found at Katanga, and specimens were lately sent to the Sultan of Zanzibar. Hot Springs and Earthquakes. As we come down from the watershed toward Tanganyika we enter an area of the earth's surface still disturbed by internal igneous action. A hot fountain in the country of Nsama is often used to boil cassava and 244 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. maize. Earthquakes are by no means rare. We experienced the shock of one while at Chitimba's village, and they extend as far as Casembe's. I felt as if afloat, and as huts would not fall there was no sense of danger ; some of them that happened at night set the fowls a-cackling. The most remarkable effect of this one was that it changed the rates of the chronometers ; no rain fell after it. Some of Nsama's people ascribed the earthquakes to the hot fountain, because it showed unusual commo- tion on these occasions. The foregoing is Livingstone's interesting account of the country through which he passed. A few days after his arrival at Lake Liemba, Livingstone had an attack which showed him the power of fever when unchecked by medicine, and a recurrence of his symptoms at Casembe's made him anxious to proceed to Ujiji in order to recuperate and replenish his stores before pursuing his explorations. He actually set out for Lake Tanganyika, but was soon convinced that the intervening country was impassable until the rainy season was over. This involved a delay of several months, and before these had passed and the season for travel come round again, he had determined to explore Lake Bangweolo before going north. He hoped to complete the exploration early in 1868; but owing first to the desertion of several of his men who refused to turn back, and secondly to Casembe's postponements and delays, it was June before he started from Casembe's town on his way south. His journey was wholly without incident requiring special mention, unless we except one which has rather mor^ of a personal interest than Livingstone often imparted even to his private diaries. A G-rave in a Strange Land. Under date of June 25th he writes: — "We came to a grave in the forest ; it was a little rounded mound as if the occupant sat in it in the usual native way : it was strewed over with flour, and a number of the large blue beads put on it: a little path showed that it had visitors. This is a sort of grave I should prefer : to lie in the still, still forest, and no hand ever disturb my bones. The graves at home always seem to me to be miserable, especially those in the cold damp clay, and without elbow room ; but I have nothing to do but wait till He who is over all, decides where I have to lay me down and die. Poor Mary lies on Shupanga brae, * and beeks foment the sun.' " This is an allusion to Mrs. Living- stone's grave. It was in July that Dr. Livingstone discovered one of the largest of the Central African lakes ; and it is extraordinary to notice the total absence of all pride and enthusiasm, as — almost parenthetically — he LIVINGSTONE LOST IN THE DARK CONTINENT. 245 records the fact. " Reached the chief village of Mapuni, near the north bank of Bangweolo. On the 18th I walked a little way out, and saw the shores of the lake for the first time, thankful that I had come safely- hither." He made a canoe voyage during the next few days which gave him an idea of its size, and he thinks he is considerably within the mark in setting down Bangweolo as 150 miles long, by 80 broad. The reader must have discovered by this time that everything in Africa is upon a large scale — great rivers, thick jungles, wide stretches of country unpeopled, tremendous waterfalls, and all natural objects great with the exception of mountains. These in their loftiest grandeur are not to be found in the Dark Continent. It is also seen that there is a great abundance of animal life. Here is the home of the elephant, the lion, the hippopotamus, the rhinoceros, the zebra, the giraffe and animals of less size, but swift in their move- ments and beautiful in appearance. Reptiles also abound, as well as monkeys and gorillas, and the traveller in Africa meets with constant surprises as well as constant dangers. In years past many have gone out to South Africa for the purpose of hunting and engaging in wild sports. Marvellous tales have been told by these adventurers of their achievements, some of which we shall have occasion to notice hereafter, Livingstone was not, properly speaking, a sportsman, yet, of course, he carried his gun and other arms, but never more than once or twice had occasion to use them except for the purpose of obtaining food for his expeditions. One of the noticeable features of Livingstone's journeys is the facility • with which he gains the friendship of the natives, comes into pleasant relations with the chiefs, secures what is needful for his men, and is able, if occasion offers, to return and be welcomed by those whom he has met before. Nothing could better show the nobility of his nature, the large- ness of his heart, the sympathy that he had for all men, as well as the consummate tact which he displayed in dealing with savage tribes. CHAPTER XI. TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. Great Excitement Among the Natives by the Presence of a White Man — Cruise on a Large Lake — Strike of Canoe-Men — Only a Coverlet with which to hire another Canoe— Food Obtained by Shooting Buffaloes — Fine Sport for the Hunter — How the Buffalo is Hunted — Thrilling Adventure with the Huge Brute— A Hottentot Dodging in the Bushes — Terrible Foe — Adventure of a Friend of Livingstone— A Dangerous Meeting with Two Lions — Charge of a Mad Buffalo — Livingstone Pursues His Journey — A Country Convulsed by War — Mohammed and other Arab Traders — Flight for Life — Livingstone Pacifies the Natives — Return of Deserters— Start for Ujiji— Serious Illness — A Dauntless Hero — Encounter with an Elephant — Beautiful Monkeys in the Forest — Thousands of Ants on the March — Graphic Description of Manyuema — Degraded Tribe of Cannibals — Market Scene in Manyuema — Terrible Massacre — Disastrous Attempt to Go Forward — Lake Named after President Lincoln — The Explorer's Account of the Soko — Freaks of a Strange Animal — A Wild Creature that Never Attacks Women — Amusing Female Soko — Ten Men with Stores Meet Livingstone — Shocking Barbarity — Hundreds of Lives Lost — Shameful Cruelty and Destruc- tion — Off on Foot for Ujiji — Near to Death— People Who Eat Their Enemies — Arrival at Ujiji — Sick, Worn out and in Desperate Straits. MBARKING on the lake in a fine canoe, with five stout men as propellers, Livingstone in a few hours reached an island where he remained a short tirfte, going on before night to the more import- ant Mbahala, where his appearance created the greatest excitement amongst the natives, who had never before seen a white man. Walking across to the north end of the island, Livingstone ascertained it to be about one mile broad, and from the eastern point he made out a larger island on the right, called by the natives Chirubi, and said to contain a large population, possessing many sheep and goats. These minor facts determined, our hero prepared to continue his voyage, hoping to pass, if he could not touch at, the spot where the Lualaba leaves Lake Bang- weolo on its journey to Moero. But, alas ! in July the canoe-men struck. They had heard of a medi- tated attack upon their little bark ; they dared not remain longer on the lake ; but if Livingstone liked to stay on Mbahala they would come and fetch him presently, when all danger was over. Believing this to be a gotten up tale to avoid further work in his service, their wages having been paid in advance, the unfortunate explorer at first thought of seizing their paddles, and appealing to the head-man of the island. Reflecting (246) TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. 247 still further, however, that he was entirely in their power, and that the islanders would probably side with them, he resolved to bear ''with meekness, though groaning inwardly," the disappointment inflicted upon him. " I had only," says Livingstone, " my coverlet to hire another canoe, and it was now very cold ; the few beads left would all be required to buy food on the way back. I might have got food by shooting buffaloes, but that on foot, and through grass with stalks as thick as a goosequill, is dreadfully hard work." Back then he must go to Masantu's, compelled to trust to native reports, for the present at least, for his computation of distances, etc., on the lake. Livingstone's reference to getting food by shooting buffaloes shows how abundant these animals are in the southern part of Africa. This is one of the attractions of this part of the continent for the hunter, although our great explorer seldom hunted merely for sport. Travellers give us interesting accounts of the African buffalo and the excitement of the chase. Fine Sport for the Hunter. In the first place, he is a handsome animal, of graceful shape, and a giant in strength; in his native wilds he is just a peaceful grazer, con- tented to pass his life cropping grass and green leaves, and to interfere with no animal, human or other ; but, challenge him to' war, and the fiercest hunter could not desire bolder game ; capture and tame him, and he will draw your plough or wagon *as submissively as the ox. He fe a faithful friend, and will fight to the, death on behalf of his companions, and for the sake of his young will do battle with the lion himself Of retiring habits, they affect vast solitudes where verdure abounds, and there is no lack of rivers and pools in which they may luxuriate, immersing themselves till only their heads appear above the surface, cool- ing their leathery hides and getting respite from the formidable stinging things that fly, or the biters that closely adhere to their bodies. If water is unattainable, the buffalo will content himself with mud, if there is plenty of it. Throwing himself flat upon his side in the mire, he shuf- iles round and round, the soil yielding to his immense weight the exuda- tion of any moisture there may be, till he manufactures for himself a delicious basin of mortar, covering him to his very eyes. When he rises and walks off he presents a decidedly unhandsome ap- pearance, which is not improved when, in the course of an hour or so, the sun bakes his mud crust, and he looks, when standing still, like some hideous clay image. Ease, however, is of considerably more im- 248 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. portance to the buffalo than elegance, and until the motion of his limbs causes his ugly coat to peel off he may defy all the vermin in the world. When Captain Methuen and his party were hunting at the Cape of Good Hope he had an opportunity of judging how terrible a beast the bull buffalo is when wounded and hard driven by the daring sportsman. With the captain were a Hottentot attendant, named Frolic, and a friend, named Moneypenny, and having discovered a herd of buffaloes, the trio let fly at them, wounding some, but not so badly but that the entire drove escaped to an impenetrable patch of forest. The captain, however, climbed into a tree, and thereby sighted and shot another bull, whereon "the wounded animal ran toward the report, his ears outstretched, his eyes moving in all directions, and his nose carried in a right line with the head, evidently bent on revenge. He passed within thirty yards of me,, and was lost in the bush. Descending from our frail perch. Frolic again discovered this buffalo standing among some small thick bushes which. nearly hid him from view ; his head was lowered, not a muscle of the body moved, and he was without doubt listening intently. We crept noiselessly to a bush and I again fired. "His Horn Struck the Muzzle of the Gun." "The huge brute ran forward with the wind, fortunately not in our di- rection, and again stood still. Presently he lay gently down, and know- ing that buffaloes are exceedingly cunning, and will adopt this plan merely to escape notice and entrap their persecutors, we drew near with great caution. I again fired through his shoulder, and concluded from his not attempting to rise that he was helpless. We walked close up to him, and never can the scene which followed be erased from my memory. Turning his ponderous head round, his eye caught our figures. I fired the second barrel of my rifle behind his horns, but it did not reach the brain. His wounds gave him some difificulty in getting up, which afford- ed Moneypenny and myself just time to ensconce ourselves behind the slender shrubs that grew round the spot, while Frolic unwisely took to his heels. The buffalo saw him, and uttering a continued unearthly noise between a grunt and a bellow, advanced at a pace at which these unwieldy creatures are rarely seen to run, unless stirred by revenge. "Crashing through the low bushes as if they were stubble, he passed me, but charged quite over Moneypenny's lurking-place, who aimed at him as he came on, and lodged the ball in the rocky mass of horn above his head ; the buffalo was so near at the time of his firing that his horn struck the barrel of the gun the next instant; but whether the noise and. C H o o > w G > o (249) 250 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. smoke confused the animal, or he was partially stunned by the bullet, he missed my friend, and continued in pursuit of Frolic. "The Hottentot dodged the terrible brute round the bushes, but through these slight obstacles it dashed with ease and gained ground rapidly. Speechless we watched the chase, and in the awful moment, regardless of concealment, stood up and saw the buffalo overtake his victim and knock him down. At this crisis my friend fired his second barrel at the beast, which gave Frolic one or two blows with his fore-feet, and pushing his nose under, endeavored to toss him; but the Hottentot, aware of this, with much presence of mind lay perfectly still. Directly after the buffalo stumbled and fell dead, and Frolic got on his legs and limped toward us. He was much hurt, and the powder-flask in his game-bag was stamped quite flat." A Terrible Foe. Although of a pacific disposition, the buffalo will defend himself with astonishing courage against the attacks of either man or beast when brought to bay. The bear has no chance with, and even the cunning tiger dare not face the buffalo's terrible horns, and can only obtain the mastery by lying in ambush and springing on to the buffalo's flanks. The buffalo cow will attack the lion fearlessly in defence of her young. Dr. Livingstone asserts that a toss from the buffalo will often kill a lion, and that he had seen two who had evidently come to their death by the horns of the buffalo. In a letter to his friend Dr. Livingstone, Mr. Vardon thus describes a terrific struggle between a buffalo and three lions as witnessed and assisted at by himself and Mr. Oswell, on the banks of the Limpopo : — ^' Oswell and I were riding along the banks of the river when a water- buck started in front of us. I dismounted, and was following it through the jungle, when three buffaloes got up, and after going a little distance stood still, and the nearest bull turned round and looked at me. A ball from a two-ouncer crashed into his shoulder, and they all three made off. Oswell and I followed as soon as I had reloaded, and when we were in sight of the buffalo, and gaining on him every stride, three lions leaped on the unfortunate brute. " He bellowed most lustily as he kept up a running fight, but he was of course soon overpowered and pulled down. We had a fine view of the struggle, and saw the lions on their hind-legs tearing away with teeth and claws in the most ferocious style. We crept up within thirty yards, and kneeling down blazed away at the lions. My rifle was a single barrel, and I had no spare gun. One lion fell dead almost on the buffalo; TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. 251 he had merely time to turn towards us, seize a bush with his teeth, and drop dead with the stick in his jaws. "The second made off directly; and the third raised his head coolly, looked around for a moment, then went on tearing and biting at the carcase as hard as ever. We retired a short distance to load, then again advanced and fired. The lion made off, but the ball that he had received oz^^/z/ to have stopped him, as it went clear through his shoulder-blade. He was followed up and killed, after having charged several times. Both lions were males. The buffalo had of course gone close to where the lions were lying down, and they seeing him lame and bleeding, thought the opportunity too good a one to be lost. It is not often that one bags a brace of lions and a bull buffalo in about ten minutes." Captain Speke, in his " Journal of the Discovery of the Nile," relates the experience of a day in hunting the buffalo. Accompanied by two natives, he had met a large herd early in the day, and followed them some time, killing a cow, and wounding several others, among them a bull. "As they knew they were pursued they kept moving on in short runs at a time, when, occasionally gaining glimpses of their large dark bodies as they forced through the bush, I repeated my shots and struck a good number, some more and some less severely. This was very pro- voking ; for all of them, being stern shots, were not likely to kill, and the jungle was so thick I could not get a front view of them. " Presently, however, one with her hind-leg broken pulled up on a white-ant hill, and, tossing her horns, came down on a charge the instant I showed myself close to her. One crack of the rifle rolled her over. Following the spoors, the traces of blood led us up to another one as lame as the last. He then got a second bullet in the flank, and, after hobbling a little, evaded our sight and threw himself into a bush, where we no sooner arrived than he plunged headlong at us from his ambush, just, and only just, giving me time to present my rifle. " It was a most ridiculous scene. Suliman by my side, with the instinct of a monkey, made a violent spring and swung himself by a bough immediately over the beast, while Faraj bolted away and left me single-gunned to polish him off There was only one course to pursue, for in one instant more he would have been into me; so, quick as thought, I fired the gun, and, as luck would have it, my bullet, after passing through the edge of one of his horns, stuck in the spine of his neck, and rolled him over at my feet as dead as a rabbit. " We commenced retracing our steps. Tracking back to the first post of attack, we followed the blood of the first bull, till at length I found 252 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. him standing like a stuck pig in some bushes, looking as if he would like to be put out of his misery. Taking compassion, I leveled my gun ; but as bad luck would have it, a bough intercepted the flight of the bullet^ and it went ' pinging ' into the air, while the bull went off at a gallop. To follow on was no difficulty, the spoor was so good; and in ten minutes more, as I opened a small clearance, rifle in hand, the great beast, from the thicket at the opposite side, charged down like a mad bull, full of ferocity — as ugly an antagonist as ever I saw, for the front of his head was all shielded with horn. A small mound fortunately stood between us, and as he rounded it, I jumped to one side and let fly at his flank, but without the effect of stopping him ; for, as quick as thought, the huge monster was at my feet, battling with the impalpable smoke of my gun, which fortunately hung so thick on the ground at the height of his head that he could not see me, though I was so close that I might, had I been possessed of a hatchet, have chopped off his head. This was a predicament that looked very ugly, for my boys had both bolted, taking with them my guns ; but suddenly the beast, evidently regarding the smoke as a phantom which could not be mastered, turned round in a bustle, to my intense relief, and galloped off at full speed, as if scared off at some terrible apparition." Such are some of the thrilling adventures among the wild animals of Africa. Livingstone often escaped starvation by the expert use of his gun. Flying- for Ljfe. Proceeding with our narrative, from Masantu's the march back to Chikumbi, where Mohammed and his party had been left, was com- menced, and in August the settlement of an Arab trader named Kombo- kombo, a little to the south of Chikumbi, was reached. Here Living- stone was cheered by the news that Mohammed was contemplating a journey west, which would take him to the great Lualaba. " The way seems opening before me," he exclaims, "and I am thankful." Before arrangements for accompanying Mohammed could be made, however, came rumors of war on the other side of the Lualaba. Syde bin Omar, an Arab trader from Iramba, the country on its western shores between Lake Bangweolo and the Rua district, declared it would be madness to attempt any explorations in that direction. Mohammed therefore readily gave up his scheme for the present, and united with Omar in objecting strongly to Livingstone's going with his small party even down the right bank of the Lualaba, though it was in sight. Our hero resolved then to wait until all were ready to go, little dreaming that the delay would last until the beginning of October, that TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. 253 the country would be convulsed with war, and that when he did leave Chikumbi it would be to flee to the north for his life. First came a raid from devastating hordes of Mazitu, who were repulsed by the united forces of the Arab traders and the native chiefs ; then a quarrel between the successful allies, resulting in an attack, headed by Casembe and 254 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. Chikumbi, on the Arabs, beginning with the Kombokombo mentioned above. , Confusion now prevailed everywhere. The daily entries in Living- stone's journals became impossible, but on the 5th of October he writes how he and his little band of servants were on one occasion surrounded by a party of fifteen or twenty natives, who attacked them with spears and poisoned arrows ; how " one good soul helped them away — a bless- ing be on him and his ; " how he narrowly escaped from the hands of another chief, who took him and his men for Mazitu ; and how, lastly, he joined forces with the Arab traders, and started north, fences being built every night to protect the united camps, which were, however, unmolested till the northern bank of the Kalongosi river was reached. Here 500 natives were drawn up to dispute the passage, but as Living- stone and an advanced party with thirty guns crossed over they retired. Our hero, however, went amongst them, explained who he was, was recognized by some old acquaintances, and obtained a truce for the Arabs. All became friendly, an elephant was killed, stores of provisions were bought, and two days later the march was resumed. Kabwawata, on the north-west of Lake Moero, was reached, and an- other long delay ensued before the Arab traders were again ready to start. The time was employed by Livingstone in making an exhaustive resume of his own work and that of his predecessors in connection with the Nile, his conviction being that in Lake Bangweolo he had found the final, or at least one of the final, sources of that great river. The work of Cameron and Stanley has, however, since proved the Lualaba to be the upper course, not, as supposed by Livingstone, of the Nile, but of the Congo, and we therefore pass over all that the hero of our present chapter urges in support of the former view. Return of Deserters. Whilst Livingstone was at Kabwawata he was cheered by the return of some of the men who had deserted before the trip to Bangweolo, and now begged to be taken back. Readily forgiven by their master, who observes that there was great excuse for them, after the conduct of their Johanna comrades, they now became apparently devoted to his service, though we shall presently have to relate their renewed faithlessness. Once more surrounded by the retinue who had come with him from Lake Nyassa, Livingstone started for Ujiji with the Arabs in December^ his party and Mohammed's leading the way. The march to Tanganyika, which was in a more northerly direction than the westward journey, seems to have been one long agony to Livingstone. In his journal he TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. 255 tells of heavy rains impeding progress, the escape and recapture of slaves^ and the hostility of villagers ; but the entries became shorter and shorter, and on the first of January, 1869, he records that the new year was opening badly ; "he had been wet times without number, but the wet- ting of yesterday was once too often ; he felt very ill," and in crossing the Lofuko, within some six weeks' journey of the lake, he was " cold up to the waist," which made him worse, though he struggled on for another two hours and a half On the 3d January, after one hour's march, he found himself too weak to go further ; his lungs were affected ; he did not know how the next few days were passed. A rill was crossed, and sheds were built, but whether he took any share in the work he cannot tell. " I lost count," he says, " of the days of the week and month after this," but about Jan- uary 7th he managed to write the following touching sentence : " I cannot walk. Pneumonia of right lung, and I cough all day and all night; distressing weakness. Ideas flow through the mind with great rapidity and vividness, in groups of twos and threes. If I look at any piece of wood, the bark seems covered all over with figures and faces of men, and they remain though I look away and turn to the same spot again. I saw myself lying dead in the way to Ujiji, and all the letters I expected there useless. When I think of my children and friends, the lines run through my head perpetually — ' I shall look into your faces, And listen to what you say, And be often very near you When you think I am far away.' Mohammed Mogharib came up, and I have got a cupper, who cupped my chest." Serious Illness. A little further we have the following entry, dated the 8th January : " Mohammed Mogharib offered to carry me. I am so weak, I can scarcely speak. We are in Marungu proper now — a pretty but steeply undulating country. This is the first time in my life I have been carried in illness, but I cannot raise myself to the sitting posture. No food ex- cept a little gruel. Great distress in coughing all night long; feet swelled and sore. I am carried four hours each day on a kitanda or frame, like a Cot ; carried eight hours one day. We seem near the brim of Tanganyika. Mohammed Mogharib is very kind to me in my ex- treme weakness ; but carriage is painful ; head down and feet up alter- nates with feet down and head up ; jolted up and down sideways — changing shoulders involves a toss from one side to the other of the 256 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. kitanda. The sun is vertical, blistering any part of the skin exposed, and I try to shelter my face and head as well as I can with a bunch of leaves, but it is dreadfully fatiguing in my weakness." After this we have no note for five weeks. Then, on the 14th Feb- ruary, 1869, the arrival at Tanganyika is announced, succeeded by a few lines to the effect that Livingstone felt if he did not get to Ujiji, where he could have proper food and medicine, soon he must die. Not until late in the same month, after fearful sufferings in a miserable hut infested with vermin on the shores of the lake, were canoes obtained, and the transit begun. A little revived by the pure air on the water, and already near Ujiji, he had hoped soon to be in that village, where he believed letters from home and stores from Zanzibar must long have been awaiting him. The Same Dauntless Hero. On the 14th of March, Ujiji was at last reached, but, on landing, our hero found that more than half his goods had been made away with, and that the road to Unyanyembe was blocked up by a Mazitu war. No hope of receiving anything more from the east for the present, no hope of getting home by way of Zanzibar; but not one repining word is uttered by Livingstone in the now more frequent notes in his journal. He says nothing about the improvement in his health, though that is implied in the plans he hints at for further researches on the west. No change of purpose is allowed to result from all he has undergone. He has reached Ujiji; he is better. He will make Ujiji the starting point for a journey direct to Manyuema, far aVay on the north-west, not only of Moero, but of that other unseen lake known as Kamolondo, and supposed by him to be the most northerly and elevated of the series of which Bangweolo is probably the lowest and most southerly. Forty-two letters were now written home, and entrusted to Arabs for transmission to Zanzibar, but they never reached their destination, and are supposed to have been wantonly destroyed. One ingenious theory respecting the relation of Tanganyika to the other lakes of Central Africa is worked out after another — what is the meaning of the current . setting towards the north? — is the long narrow sheet of water only a river after all ? — if a lake, has it an outlet, and, if so, where is that outlet ? — such are some of the questions propounded, but not answered, by the great explorer, as he bides his time for an opportunity to go and see the great rivers reported to intersect Manyuema, that unknown country of which little more than rumors had then reached even the Arab traders of Ujiji. TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. 257 Presently came rumors of vast herds of elephants in Manyuema, and of a sturdy race of blacks differing essentially from any of those yet met with. A horde of Arabs determined to go and test the truth of these reports. The dangers incident to elephant hunting in all this part of Africa are vividly seen in the following narrative, related by a member of a hunting party who was a participant in the perilous sport : "We had bagged a good many birds, when a beautiful little gazelle came bounding across our path. It put me in mind of an Italian grey- hound, only it had a longer neck and was somewhat larger. I was quite HUNTER ATTACKED BY A BULL ELEPHANT. sorry when Chickango (a native connected with our party), firing, knocked it over. It was, however, a welcome addition to our game bag. He called it Ncheri. It was the most elegant little creature I met with in Africa among the numberless beautiful animals which abound in the re- gions we passed through. "We were at the time proceeding along the foot of a hill. Scarcely had he fired, when a loud trumpeting was heard, and directly afterwards we saw a negro rushing through the underwood, followed by a huge ele- phant. 'Up! up the hill!' cried Chickango, suiting the action to the word. I followed, for as we were wishing to kill birds alone, my gun was loaded only with small shot. The elephant made towards us. The negro 17 258 \ WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. stranger came bounding on. Chickango and I had got some way up the hill, but Wilson, one of our number, who stood his ground, was engaged in ramming home a bullet. The elephant had all the time been keeping one eye on the black and one on us. "When I thought he was on the point of seizing us, he suddenly turned on his first assailant. The black darted to a tree, when the elephant seizing him with his trunk, threw him with tremendous force to the ground. This enabled Wilson to spring up after us; and the hill being very steep, with rolling stones, we hoped that we were there safe from the infuriated beast. It cast a glance at the unfortunate black, who was endeavoring to crawl away along the ground. Again the elephant was about to seize him with his trunk, and in an instant would have crushed him to death,, when Wilson, raising his gun, fired, and struck the creature in the most vulnerable part — behind the ear. The ball must have entered the brain,, for, sinking down instantly, it rolled over, and, we thought, must have killed the black by its weight. "He was Still Breatliingr." " We hurried down, hoping that there might yet be time to save the poor fellow's life, regardless at the moment of our victory, which, with hunters in general, would have been a cause of triumph. As we got round, we found the black had narrowly escaped being crushed to death; indeed, as it was, his legs appeared to lie almost under the monster's back. We drew him out, however, and to our satisfaction found that he was stilL breathing. Chickango said that he belonged to the Bakeles, and was probably a chief hunter among them. As, however, we were much nearer our own abode than their village, Wilson and I agreed to carry him with us, somewhat I fancied, to Chickango's astonishment. *Oh! he black fellow, he die; what use carry?' he remarked. Of course we kept our own opinion, hoping that with our doctor's skill the poor man might recover. He was unable to speak, and was indeed apparently uncon- scious. "'Had my rifle been loaded with ball, I should have saved that poor fellow the last fearful crush; and in the future we must not go without one or two of our fowling-pieces loaded with ball,' obsei^ved Wilson ram- ming down a bullet into his rifle." " Chickango and I did the same. We then constructed a rough litter^ on which we placed the injured negro. We bore him along, a porter and Chickango carrying the head and I the feet part of the litter. We found the weight considerable, especially over the rough ground we had to traverse, but the life of a fellow-creature depended upon our perseverance. TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. 259 Chickango carefully noted the spot where the elephant lay, that we might return as soon as possible for some of the meat and the tusks, which were very large. We reached the spot where our friends were cutting out the canoe just as they were about to leave it, and we were thankful to have their assistance in carrying the stranger. The doctor instantly applied himself to examining the hurts of the negro. He found that his left arm A FAMILY OF LION MONKEYS. had been broken, and the ribs on the same side severely crushed. 'The injuries might be serious for a white man,' he observed; 'but the blood of an African, unheated by the climate, escapes inflammation, and I have hopes that he may recover.' Chickango was very eager to set out im- mediately, in order to bring in the eleahant's tusks and some meat, but Wilson considered that it was too late in the day, and put off the expedi- tion till the following morning. 260 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. "We were somewhat later in starting than we intended. We carried baskets and ropes, to bring with us the ivory and a supply of meat. On reaching the spot, however, where the huge monster lay, we found that others had been before us. The tusks were gone, and a portion of the flesh. Innumerable birds of prey, also, were tearing away at it, or seated on the surrounding trees devouring the pieces they had carried off, while hyenas, already gorged, crept sulkily away, doubting whether they should attack us or not. The spectacle was almost ghastly, and it showed how soon a mountain of flesh might disappear in that region. Beautiful Little Monkeys. "Chickango was greatly disappointed, as not a particle of flesh which he could touch remained, while, of course, we regretted the loss of the valuable tusks. On our way back, we caught sight of a number of beau- tiful little monkeys skipping about in the trees. Chickango called them "oshingui." They were the smallest I ever saw. Below the trees where they had their abode ran a small stream ; and Chickango told me they were very fond of water, and were never found at a distance from it. On the same trees, and playing with them, were numerous birds, called mon- key-birds from their apparent attachment to those creatures. " We saw another very beautiful little bird, with an extremely long flowing tail of pure milk-white. It had a crest on its head of a greenish black, and its breast was of the same color, while lower down the feathers were of an ashy brown. Snow-white feathers on the back rose up, like those of the birds of paradise, to which it had a strong resemblance. Soon after this I saw some creatures on the ground, and catching hold of one of them, I found it was an enormous ant of a greenish white color, with a head of a reddish black. The, fangs were so powerful that when I put my fingers to them, they literally tore a piece of flesh out. "'Why, these creatures would eat us all up, if we were to encounter them as we did those the other day,' I remarked. " ' No fear massa,' answered a native. ' Dey no come in same way. Dey no go into house, no climb tree, and only just a few hundred or t'ousand march together.' " It was satisfactory to hear this, for really I felt that should an army invade us, we might have more reason to dread them than the blacks themselves. I was not soriy to miss the elephant flesh, for I had not for- gotten the tough morsals we had placed between our teeth when pre- sented to us by the friendly blacks soon after we landed." The journey to Manyuema commenced on the 12th of July, 1869. After crossing the lake, the line of march was directly north-west until TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. 261 Bambarre, the district of a friendly chief named Moenekuss, was reached in September. Numerous rivers and minor streams were crossed on the way, some flowing into Tanganyika, and others westward the Lualaba; the district near the lake is mountainous and covered with dense forests. The Manyuema country is described by Livingstone as surpassingly beautiful. Palms crown the highest heights of the mountains, and their gracefully bended fronds wave beauti- fully in the wind ; and the forests, usu- ally about five miles broad, between groups of villages, are indescribable. Climbers of cable size in great numbers are hung among the gigantic trees, many unknown wild frui'ts abound, some the size of a child's head, and strange birds and monkeys are every- where. The soil is excessively rich, and the people, although isolated by old feuds that are never settled, cultivate largely. They have selected a kind of maize that bends its fruit-stalk ants on the march. round into a hook, and hedges some eighteen feet high are made by insert- ing poles, which sprout like Robinson Crusoe's hedge, and never decay. Lines of climbing plants are tied so as to go along from pole to pole, and the maize-cobs are suspended to these by their own hooked fruit- stalk. As the corn-cob is forming, the hook is turned round, so that the 262 WONDERS OF THE TROPICS. fruit-leaves of it hang down and form a hatch for the grain beneath or inside it. This upright granary forms a solid-looking wall round the vil- lages, and the people are not stingy, but take down the maize and hand it to the men freely. The streets of the villages often run east and west, in order that the bright blazing sun may lick up the moisture quickly from off them. The dwelling houses are generally in line, with public meeting-houses at each end, opposite the middle of the street ; the roofs are low, but well thatched with a leaf resembling the banana-leaf, from which the water runs quickly off. The walls are of well-beaten clay, and screened from the weather. Inside, the dwellings are clean and comfortable, and before the Arabs came, bugs were unknown. In some places, where the south- east rains are abundant, the Manyuema place the back of the houses to this quarter, and prolong the low roof down, so that the rain does not reach the walls. These clay walls stand for ages, and men often return to the villages they left in infancy and build again the portions that many rains have washed away. Each housewife has from twenty-five to thirty earthen pots slung to the ceiling by very neat cord-swinging tas- sels ; and often as many neatly-made baskets hung up in the same fashion, and much firewood. The population is very large, and the people are fine-looking; Living- stone thinks that a crowd of Londoners, divested of their clothing and set opposite a crowd of Manyuema, would make a sorry spectacle. The people are very naked, answering to Cowper's lines: " Time was, when clothing, sumptuous or for use. Save their own painted skins, our sires had none, As yet black breeches were not ; satin, smooth, ' Or velvet soft, or plush with shaggy pile ; The hardy chief upon the rugged rock Washed by the sea, or on the grav'ly bank Thrown up by wintry torrents roaring loud, Fearless of wrong, reposed his weary strength." The natives plait the hair into the form of a basket behind ; it is first rolled into a very long coil, then wound around something till it is about eight or ten inches long, projecting from the back of the head. The Manyuema, with their great numbers, their favored country, and their industrious habits, would seem to possess all the elements of a strong and progressive nation; but they are among the most barbarous tribes of Central Africa. They are cannibals of the most degraded sort, for they eat the bodies of those who die of disease; they are suspicious, vindictive, and cruel; TERRIBLE SUFFERINGS AND NARROW ESCAPES. 263 and they are so quarrelsome and treacherous that inhabitants of one village or district seldom dare venture beyond the confines of the next. Even Livingstone's large charity, quickened as it was by the outrages to Avhich he saw them subjected at the hands of the Arabs, could find but little that was good in them except their physique. " The Manyuema," he says, after a long stay among them had made him familiar with their ihabits, "are the most bloody, callous savages I know; one puts a scarlet ifeather from a parrot's tail on the ground, and challenges those near to stick it in the hair : he who does so must kill a man or woman ! An- ■other custom is that none dare wear the skin of the musk cat, ngawa, lunless he has murdered somebody : guns alone prevented them from killing us all, and for no reason either." One of the great institutions of the Manyuema country is their mar- ■kets, held in certain villages and at stated times. Even in war-time mar- ket people are allowed to pass freely to and from the fairs with their wares. People from distant districts collect here, and exchange their surplus product for Manyuema luxuries. Fish-wives, goat-herds, slave-