LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 499 653 7 O \ .L65 Copy 1 / LETTERS ON FLORIDA. 4. /SSST NUMBER I. In common with many others, I see that you labor under much misconception with regard to this section of country, called Florida. Allow an old resident, although in so young a country, to set you to rights in matters which your letters (which I translate into inqui- ries) indicate you to be somewhat in the dark about. I must refer you to the maps, which are in the handsof every one, for the geographical position of this interesting territory ; and I merely observe to you, that it is divided into four judicial districts, E., W., Middle and S. ; and for legislature, into 16 counties. The peninsula of E. Florida, contains Alachua, Nassau, St. Johns, Mosquito, Duval, and Monroe, (which includes Key West.) Mid- dle Florida, contains Gadsden, Leon, Jefferson, Madison, and Ham- ilton ; and W. Florida, Escambia, Washington, Walton, Jackson, and Franklin, (in which Apalachicola stands.) These have also their county and associate judges. Amongst them they send 24 members to a Legislative Council, which assembles about the third Monday of every January, at Tallahassee, under a president of their own choosing, and a governor appointed by the President of the United States for the term of three years. The duties of this last are so light, that the territory may be said to walk alone. It is well known that Congress has the power of not confirming any act passed in that council. When the territory was delivered to the United States in 1821, in virtue of the Florida treaty of 1819, the population scarcely amounted to 10,000 souls, principally residing in Pensacola, St. Au- gustine, and a spare population in country settlements — of these, the Indians might amount to 4000. Presently an establishment was made at Key West, of which we shall presently speak, and a motley class of speculators, artizans and others, poured into the only two sea ports above mentioned in the expectation, some of bettering their condition, others of changing their state, apd all of them per- suaded that the streets were paved with gold — fatal infatuation ! Let loose from other societies, disappointed in their hopes and without employment of any kind, these new comers but too frequently in- clined to dissipation ; and Pensacola accustomed to health and reti- red habits, and St. Augustine formerly denominated by the Span- iards the garden of America, both soon became the prey of di»- ease, and for the first time bilious malignant fevers were numbered ■••,,. in their records, carrying off numerous victims. The old inhabi- • **#'«wit^retired to other countr.es more consonant to their habits, their religion and their language, depopulating those cities, which on the other hand oftered no indusement to our enterprising citizens, by- reason of the very sterile back country in the neighborhood of both. In the meantime, the general government was taking its measures for the administration and settlement of this new acquisition. A seat of government was selected by commissioners — the present Talla- hassee. The territorial government was soon established in its pre- sent form. Commissioners were appointed, and laws passed, to look into and regulate the pending land claims. Attention was tur- ned to Pensacola from its situation in the Gulph, and its very con- venient waters as a naval arsenal. Another station was contempla- ted about the desolate Tortugas, or the now well settled Key West. These dispositions tended to introduce settlers of various descrip- tions ; while the owners of lands were strenuous on their side, not only to improve their own possessions, but to make sales to others. Other laws were framed for the more speedy settlement of pending land claims ; and lastly, a general land office was opened for the disposal of those of the public property. From these causes, the spirit of enterprise was gradually awakened, and the population in- creased, insomuch, that by a census taken in the beginning of 1831, I find the whole number was 34,725, viz : whites, 18,385 ; free colored, 840 ; slaves, 15,500, a vast increase in ten years. And speedier far might have been its progress but for some cir- cumstances, which it is now painful for me to recur to, and more painful still to have witnessed, although I now hope they have cea- sed for ever to exert their deadly influence near us. First, no men of solid capital had yet appeared amongst us, and there was no money of a circulating medium to meet the wants of the country. — There existed an unconquerable zeal in the raising the sugar cane, while no effort could stamp it as staple commodity. Lastly, land speculators, who had obtained the first purchases at very low prices, were vaunting an article which was found not to correspond with their representations, and being so discovered, was depreciated to the opposite extreme, while the peaceful, industrious cultivator was deterred from purchasing, by the portions of land which were hung up in litigation in the courts prevented him from making his selections. Such was Florida. I shall have occasion to amplify the subject of which the above may be considered by you as the text, but be- fore we part, let me say a few words, to give you an idea the same as it is. First, some powerful emigrations have taken place. Sec- ond, the unsuccessful cultivation of the sugar cane has given way to the more inviting production of cotton — two good crops of which, at good prices, have wonderfully augmented the resources of the plan- L^^ ter. And lastly, two banks are now in successful operation, having an abundant capital, predicated and secured upon the improved ag- ricultural property of the country, and which dispenses life and vig- or to the commercial as well as the agricultural interests throi ghout. From these causes, and ih© settlement of the long protracted land claims, a new epoch may be said to have commenced of, I hope, las- ting prosperity to the territory. In my next I shall speak of the soil and climate. NUMBER II. The geology of Florida is described in a few words : — The base is of so recent formation that it seems to be amongst the last of Na- ture's works in this way, and scarcely dried from the laboratory ; it is eminently calcareous, a soft limestone, yet hard enough when long exposed to the air, as Fort St. Mark can witness. It would seem as if the course of this formation had been interrupted by the action of rains, and various chemical processes, leaving the upper outlines in successive swells or undulations, sometimes gentle, some- times abrupt, and never of great height ; while below are fissures and gullies communicating with each other or with lakes near the surface. There are natural bridges, below which an entire river disappears, and re-ascends at the distance of miles to pursue its on- ward course towards the ocean. This calcareous rock is found very frequently mixed with shells and other marine substances. The sea- shores abound with a beautiful sand which proves to be the remains of decomposed shells, which have, no doubt, contributed to the for- mation of the main land ; this sand, without any other admixture whatever, forms the richest soil to the tallest trees and finest vegeta- bles. In the beds of rivers, upon their banks, and frequently under ground, is found the rotten limestone^ being the aforesaid calcareous rock in a state of decomposition, or saturated with noxious gas. The water from wells near to this is disagreeable to the taste, and it sometimes occurs riiat portions of it entire will disappear from its bed, either by chemical operation, or the efliect of gullies or rivu- lets beneath. In this case, the earth, in portions of acres entire, will sink beneath its level several feet. In general, the country un- dulates 30 to 80 feet above the level of the sea, and its greatest height does not exceed 250 feet. Immediately upon this base rests a soil of clay, of every hue and color, and partaking of the inequalities of surface of the rock be- neath, as if seizing the opportunity of settlement when and where it could and in the greatest quantity ; it is found, accordingly from six inches deep to six feet, generally mixed with sand of various forma- tions, ambnj;;st which not a grain of silex has yet been discovered. This mixture is generally found up to the surface, not adhesive, but light and rich ; sometimes it contains animal and vegetable decompo- sitions, some ferruginous oxides, and almost always sahne or alka- line combinations. From this soil springs forests of perpetual ver- dure — trees of such magnificence, and beauty, and variety, that the eye never wearies in resting upon their foliage ; but scarcely a rock appears above the surface throughout the section — npt a pebble to interrupt its equality. We shall presently arrive at the products of this soih with the practical experiments of its fertility. Nothing can be more fallacious than the appearance of this soil, as it presents itself to an European, to an emigrant from the Trop- ics, or to an agriculturalist from any of the northern states. None of these possesses any thing by which to compare it. Hence the ex- aggerations which were allowed to circulate at first, and which have proved so delusive. Hence, the opposite extreme of contempt and depreciation of the lands, which is not less erroneous. The truth may lay between the extremes. I give the following as the division of qualities. l.st. The river cotton lands, a rich alluvion, sandy greyish loam, f/om three to twenty feet deep. These may not be so deep nor so adhesive as the same upon the Delta of the Mississippi (for instance) yet there are portions, and no inconsiderable ones, which I have seen, capable of producing abundantly the finest sugar cane, as also cotton, Sea Island and U[)land, the richest tobacco, and corn from 50 to 60 bushels per acre. 2d. Next in order are the -low hammock lands with their magnif- icent oaks, hickory, Magnoha, dogwood, &c. and thick under shrub- bery — such are most excellent cotton, tobacco and corn lands, the latter yielding 30 or 40 bushels per acre. The proximity of water in these lands is the principal cause of the fertility. 2d. N^xt are the high hammock, with its forests also of oak, hick- ory, and some pine — these are susceptible of the same culti^'ation, and corn gives 15 to 30 bushels per acre. Both these are of the anme contexture, clay and sand of every variety of sade, with some- time* animal and vegetable decompositions. 4th. In order, are the piny wood lands, and these ofier the most singular varieties of any within the boundaries of the United States. \^'hen the long haired or lob lolly pine prevails, or the scrubby Pal- metto, the land is barren, except in patches, where some grasses may be introduced for pasture. Where the short haired pine is seen the land is susceptible of cultivation, even to the sugar cane and com, the latter giving here 15 or 20 bushels per acre. I have known such land to produce one bale of Sea Island cotton per acre. 5th and lastly, are the Spanish and Indian old fields — vast tracts of country havijig been evidently under cultivation at some distant 5 period, and now abandoned to a second growth of forest trees. — These prove, with few exceptions, to be aniout^st ilie tnust fertile tracts of the country. In new countries it is natural to take hold of the primest lands at once — those yielding the greatest product with the least trouble. — When these become located, another class of lands existing in Flor- ida must necessarily be called into action. These aie the meadows or prairies, and the river lands, now subjected to overflowing at ev- ery freshet. Such require ditching, drahiing and banking — a species of labor, as yet, little understood ; but when the competition of la- bor sliall enable such works to be undertaken, fine lands will thus be reclaimed, fit for the highest cultivation. Another peculiarity of the soil, in this fine country, is what I have already hinted. Along almost the whole sea coast touching the Gulf of Mexico, there is observed growing out of the finest sand, many feet deep, without apparently an atom of vegetable mould, the finest and tallest, and most magnificent live oak trees and magnolias, (gran- deflora) the pride of this section ; also the finest garden vegetable. On examining this sand with the microscope, it is found to be com- posed of broken shells only — not a particle of silex appears in its formation. NUMBER III. Before quitting the subject of the soil, allow me to enumerate a few of the trees which adorn its surface and surround its lak(;s and chores, with a profusion which astonishes every beholder. Two of these stand proudly pre-eminent ; the Magnolia grandeflora and the live oak. Nothing can exceed the magnificence and beauty of these evergreens as they are found in this territory. The first, the pride of laurels with its expansive flower, one of the whitest and the largest which blows, contrasting with the dark bright green of its sister leaves. The well known live oak, so useful in the construction of ships, rear- ing its majestic knarled head as well from the richest soil of the in- terior as from the shelly sands of the sea shore, and snuffing already the ocean air, which the separate limbs are doomed to traverse in other shapes. There are of these from 20 to 30 feet in circumfe- rence at the base, and single limbs from 80 to 100 feet. Besides these are the beautiful water oak, and the white oak and red oak amongst the largest of the United States. Amongst those most abundant, are also found the hickory, the pencil cedar, the cypress, the juniper, the locust (acasia,) the beach, the mulberry (albus,) the cotton tree, the lime, the dogwood, the wild cherry, the common laurel, the sassafras, so well known in medicine, the chinquapin, the red bay so distinguished by its blossoms and its wood 6 scarcely inferior to the mahogany, the pahnetto of the south, and several varieties of the pine, which do not, however, here, as else- where, denote barrenness of the soil, but on the contrary are very frequently the sign of great fertility. Of the climate I am bold to say to you, notwithstanding reports which may have reached you to the contrary, that the territory is in a high degree salubrious, with some exceptions from local causes, to which I shall hereafter allude. Although its situation approaches the tropical latitudes, I find the range of summer heat is from 88 to 92 degrees of Fahrenheit, which is much less than the occasional heats at the same period throughout the whole of the more northern cities of the Atlantic coast. On one occasion I find it recorded as a re- markably occurrence some years ago, that the thermometer stood at 97° — the warmest month is June, and a few days before and fol- lowing. The air generally is pure and elastic, never sultry, and the nights are always comfortable, and a refreshing sea breeze fans the atmosphere. The rainy season commences with great regularity in June, lasting from one month to two — periodical showers fall also in September and February ; from rain to sunshine, the transition is generally rapid as in the tropics. The thunder is sharp, when it is heard, the lightning vivid, but we have no tornadoes as yet, and no earthquakes — the water from springs and v/ells is pure and refresh- ing, excepting in veins of earth near to the rotten limestone, which are avoided. The season of winter is here amongst the most delightful of any upon the face of the earth — the absolute cold being experienced for a (ew days only, and that occasionally. I find it recorded that on the 15th February, 1830, there was a fall of snow of two inches, an event which never occurred before and is not likely again to occur. In the ever memorable month of February, 1835, also, the thermo- meter fell to nearly zero, as it did throughout the United States, kill- ing here nearly all the orange trees, and every tropical plant — spa- ring, however, the sonthern part of the Peninsula, where the thermo- meter never went below 46. With a few exceptions like these, as I said, frost is seldom seen, and that only for a few days of the whole season, just sufficient to animate the invalid, and give a salutary bracing to all the inhabitants from the summer relaxation. The territory, indeed, is the most ge- nial to be found for invalids, particularly those afflicted with incipient consumptions, and to all who are compelled to fly from the rigor of a northern winter. Here, is perpetual verdure, and the lakes and rivers open their broad expanse at all seasons. Yet this state of salubrity has been abused upon several occasions : from the want of proper municipal regulations in the towns, and the early, anxious occupations of the settlers, in order to procure the means of subsistance, the comforts of life were wholly neglected. Animal and vegetable decompositions were sufTered to lay in the streets ; rain water to stagnate near town, and throughout the conn- try, from the want of means of draining it. This fully accounts for what was called the sickly season of 1831 in Tallahassee, so much lamented at the time. Yet, on looking to the records of that period, (the very worst, be it remembered, in the annals,) I find the num- ber of deaths, from 1st June to 1st December, to be 61 only, 16 of whom only were citizens of the capital, and 5 of the deaths from fe- ver — the remainder were transient persons from the country. Settlers became careless in their habits, undergoing all kinds of ex- posure, with the very poorest kinds of fare. In their mode of plant- ing, too, some were ignorant and reckless. It was, for instance, a common custom heedlessly to pull down the superb forest trees up to the very house door of the planter ; thus at once removing the powerful operative of a healthful atmosphere, and his pride and or- nament ; and instead of these, under their very noses to plant the cotton shrub, the most noxious aud deleterious of all vegetable sub- stances, when in a state of decomposition. Was it to be wondered at, that disease should follow this system ? That such folly should receive its reward ? Whole families were laid up accordingly, and some continue to this day with remnants of fever and ague, which we call chills, but which fortunately is never fatal. Bilious fevers were also created by other .irregularities, and colds, and pleurisies, for which calomel was prescribed, to make the remedy worse than the disease. Yet still are these not indicative of the general state of the country, which I maintain to be free from fevers and all epidemics whatever. In this I am supported by every physician of the terri- tory, to whom I confidently appeal, and the proof Avill be, that as ease and comfort shall be extended, so shall cease these diseases, which are purely accidental. It is well known that in all new seltlements, where openings are made, until the vegetable matter of the fallen trees shall be entirely decomposed, incidental fevers and agues must be felt and supported ; and these are severe enough without the aid of man adding to the ca- lamity by his own imprudence. Yours, truly. NUMBER IV. In proceeding to speak of the productions of this territory, let me premise to you that if these are not so abundant, nor so varied up to this time, as the fertile soil and its favorable climate permitted ; if the "orange and citron groves" of the imaginations of some travel- lers are yet in embryo — if immense forests still meet the eye not yet penetrated by the foot of man — if log houses are still found upon plantations instead of neater cottages, or more substantial houses — let me plead in excuse for these by recalling to you the absolute 8 Vfdni of resources of the first settlers, and the struggle, not for the luxuries of life, but for the means of existence — the almost universal want of intelligence upon agricultural subjects — some good lands held first by avaricious speculators, and others locked up by Utigation. The settlers lived from hand to mouth — objects of common interest and good were never considered, and even to this day the maxim is to airive at the immediate results by the shortest way. Under these circumstances, the first ai'ticle to which attention was and still is im- periously called, is the Maize or Indian Corn^ for subsi^tance. For this article the territory is in a high degree propitious. I have said that according to the quality of the land, the alluvion of the river bot- tom, the rich low hanunock, or the oak and hickory hammock, or the pine and black Jack, the returns are greater or less. From the first, I have known as much as 70 bushels to be produced from the acre : but that is by no means a criterion. From 50 to 60 bushels are, however, very frequent, but the most general quantity is from 20 to 30 bushels, because planters, with other attentions, sow this when and where they can. Lands are besides more or less acrid as they are opened, or more or less adapted to corn according to the previ- ous culture. A wet or a dry season will also make a difference of 20 to 50 per cent, in the result. There is also a difference arising from the greater or less intelligence of the cultivator in the width of his drills, the quantity of seed sown, the attention during growth, &c. But the most palpable error of all is the entire abandonment of the corn and other provisions, by some planters, trusting to buy it from the neighbours^ and occupy the land in some more supposed profita- ble branch. Nothing can be more fallacious — 1 st. Because the pro- fit of this branch is lost in the extra price of the corn so purchased — 2d. No one carries home the same quantity of corn he pays for — 3d. The team is sent for it, and the labor lost always at the most unsea- sonable time — 4th. The planter loses the offal and pickings of his own field of corn, which is one-third of the quantity — 5th. His o\Mi horses, pigs, poultry, and men are always ill fed by purchased corn — And lastly, should his neighbour be as improvident as himself, and the dearth should arise, what could he say for himself ? Of the other grains, rye and oats are cultivated here every year, with a result not inferior to any part of the United States. Wheat is also cultivated, but there is less reliance upon it, because during the rains, it imbibes too much humidity and is very apt to become mouldy. Next in importance is rice, of which the experience is most am- ple. The lowest and richest lands are of course the best adapted to it, but it is also cultivated on high good hammocks ; on one and the other the product is 25 to 35 bushels to the acre of clean rice, not perhaps so heavy or so white as that of Carolina. Now the Carc- lina and Georgia crops give two, or at most three barrels, or 50, 60, to 70 bushels oi rough rice to the acre, from their wet cultivation- — 9 «o that when the superiority of dry cultivation is considered as regards the common health, the advantage is ccrt:iinly found in the culture of this grain in this territory. I now come to sugar. This article must cease to be a staple for export, although enough will still be manufactured for the home con- sumption of the territory, and for its molasses. With small capital, and very insufficient plantation utensils, and little practical knowledge, every effort has been made to compete with the neighboring state of Louisiana and the West India Islands ; but they have proved fruitless, and all planters in Middle Florida have turned their atten- tion to other objects, with the exception of a few who still find it advantageous to carry on the culture of the cane in connection with cotton. In the West Indies, there is more cane planted in the same area, the ratoons are produced from the same stock for 12, 15, and up to 30 years successively, and the saccharine arrives to full maturity. Here, the ratoons do not follow above 2, and at most 4 years ; the replanting is generally annual, but the greatest disad- vantage of all is, that the cane must be cut down prematurely, from the apprehension of frost, and consequently the juice is never per- fected for making sugar. Add to this that for the replanting each year, one-fourth to one-third of the produce of the cane is used. The result is, therefore, less quantity of an article, pretty in color, but destitute of quality and grain, and wholly unfit for the refinery. In East Florida, notwithstanding, the cultivation of the cane con- tinues less unsuccessfully, and a period may arrive of more propi- tious seasons, better experience, more capital, and more encouraging prices abroad, which may cause the general cultivation to be re- sumed. In the meantime, in justice to tha soil, I must observe, that 16 stalks have been produced from a single joint of cane, and another 14, from sandy land — average number of 1 joints in 10 stalks. Ten of these weighed 50 1-2 pounds. 2000 lbs. is a common quantity of sugar from one acre. One planter made 1800 lbs., using 8 joints only, and leaviug 4 for seed. The cane was planted 4 1-2 feet apart. If it had been at 3 feet only, and with an iron mill, he sup- posed he would make 4000 lbs. to the acre. Another with 40 hands made 50 hhds. of sugar, 80 bbls. molasses, 6000 bushels corn, 40 bales cotton, 600 bushel rice, besides sundry improvements and clearing 130 acres. One hand can easily manage four acres of cane, with a little cotton. I could multiply examples of this kind, were it not for fear of fatiguing you. I close, therefore, by remark- ing that a friend of mine receems the loss before mentioned of cutting down the cane prematurely — by burying or covering it carefully, by which operation the cane recovers in part, and give? a product of double the quantity of what it would have been if expressed at the time of cutting. — In my next I shall treat of the more profitable staple of cotton, Yours, &.c. 10 NUMBER V. I now come to the staple article of the country ; par excelUnce^ its main stay, Cotton, which has so eminently contributed of late to its advancement and prosperity. Of the total quantity exported of Co'ton from the United States, in 1828-9, 879,415 bales, I find the quantity from Florida vvaS 4,149; from 31st October, 1831, to the 26ih June, 1332, from St. Marks river alone, were exported 8,282 bales. The export^ from Florida of 1832-3, gave 23,641 bales— of 1834, 36,738 bales, (besides that to Charleston,) and those just concluded in 1835, give from Apalachicola upwards of 36,000 bales, includmg, however, those from Columbus, Georgia; from St. Marks 19,000; minor ports, probably 4,000 ; making, in all, over 59,000 ; and it is pro- bable that quantity will be increased 30 to 50 per cent the year ensuing. The species of cotton cultivated here are distinctly three. 1st, the Black seed or Georgia Sea Island, which is the rarest, because it produces less quantity than the others, and in quality, (although little inferior,) does not quite compete with that of the Atlantic islands. 2cl, the Green seed, or Georgia Uplands, which produces abundant quantity, (equal to any thing in Alabama) and in quality 2 a 3 cents lb. superior to its Georgian stock. 3ci, a green seed of Mexican origin, heavy, with a whitish pellicule, obtained from Louisiana, called the Petit Gulf. This has been most successful of all, and its adoption is now very general. Its quality is between the Sea Island and Upland. Other kinds mighti no doubt, be improved by cultivation here, such as the Brazilian, that from Carthagena, or St Domingo ; but these are wholly unknown. It is in viewing our lands, not with the idea of a selection for cotton, that ;a stranger is at fault. He never saw before, fields of a rich marie, and he cannot conceive the idea of an apparently barren sand — of a ferruginous clay — bringing fertility ; yet the following are the products. Of Sea Island, a negro will tend 4 acres easily with 2 acres ot provisions. Of Uplands he will tend 10 acres, with five of provi- sions. The average income is now 250 to ,^300 per annum per hand. An acre of land will yield easily and commonly 1200 lbs. Sea Island in the seed, or 350 lbs. good clean and 50 lbs. stained. Of Peut Gulf, 1800 to 2000 lbs. in the seed, or 500 to 700 lbs. clean — of grf^cn seed, 140t) to 1500 lbs. or 350 of clean cotton. The Sea Island must be picked speedily — the Petit Gulf is best and heaviest, and not subject to rot. The green seed is more sub- ject to rot, more convenient to pick? and not easy to drop out of the jpod. The three require diflerent soils, but all deep, for the tap n root. In the distance of the drills, replanting, &c., there k still some room for miprovement. Some few plantations have given 9 bales to the hand ; very many give 6 a 8. An instance of individual result now before nie, of t.,e present ye?r, is — four negroes and a woman made cotton for 1735 dollars, and 150 of corn, besides bacon and other provisions for the estate. Expenses SCO, leaving 1585 dollars nett for 5 hands. — This is properly the poor man's country. It must not be concealed, however, that cotton, particularly the Sea Island, has a dreadful enemy in the caterpillar, which sometimes makes fearful havoc among the trees, just when the profits begin to be anticipated — a remedy against this ravage has been lately dis- covered, by burning sulphur in the fields, which promises to be successful. But another article is now putting forth with the greatest success, and promises not only to employ the industry of thousands, but others failing, to be the staple commodity of the country — I mean tobacco. In this, ample experiments have been made of the Ken- tucky, Virginia, &c., but all have given way to the celebrated seed from the Island of Cuba, which claims the decided preference — the great profit upon it being completely ascertained. Of this, one man has enough to do to tend one acre, and this acre will yield 5 to 800 lbs. according to quality of the ground. This is supposed to be worth 40 to 60 cents per lb.; 1 say supposed, because no sales have yef been made, and none exported — for every pound made is twisted by the planter himself into the already well known Florida cigars, and if the quantity was increased an hundred fold, the whole would now be readily taken ofi', so great is the present demand for them. In order to judge of the profit of this staple, take one thousand cigars as 5 lbs. ; each 1 ,000 selling readily, in the North, for 1 5 dollars, or upon the spot for 10 dollars ; less .3 dollars of charges for twisting, &c., leaving 7 dollars for 5 lbs., or 1 40-100 dollars per lb. For this article the new land is taken, chiefly chinquapin or the richest black loam, every year, and this will afterwards ser\e for cotton, corn, &c. In December the seed is sown, in land neither too moist nor too dry, for if too dry the fly will consume it ; it is then transplanted in March, at three feet distance each side ; it should be topped when it begins to button, or according to circum- stances. Sometimes the plant gives 32 leaves, the lightest and tenderest leaves are here at the bottom. There is a very prevalent opinion among the uninformed, that lands in this territory wear out eanly. I maintain it to be a gross mistake: and I recommend to such persons to inform themselves of the truth from those who have experience in the matter. Some lands will wear out sooner than others by time and usage, others by ill treatment : what I will maintain is, that the good lands do not wear out sooner than others — that in the abundance of lots, at cheap prices, there has been a reckless abandonment of one tract to seize upon another, in order to save the trouble of preserving it. I can produce twenty fields, opened and cultivated, since the first settle- ment, in as good preservation and fertility as at the first. Besides, there is in this section a natural and powerful marie, which ■fvill restore any field in one year of fallow, also pease of any kind ploughed into the field will wonderfidly restore its powers. Grape Vine — No decided or continuous effort has yet been made in the country, in order to prove the advantage of this as a staple and profitable commodity — nothing beyond the native indigenous vine, which is found in this as in all the Southern states in great abundance. Samples have been introduced and cultivated in gar- dens of the Madeira, Sicily, Cape, Muscatel, Malaga, &c. and of the Scupernong and other native grapes, but it is doubted whether upon a large scale, the atmosphere here, more humid than in France or Spain, would allow of its maturing seasonably, or whether the summer rains would not be injurious by rotting it. Some enterpris- ing agriculturist will soon set this question at rest. Mulberry of the Silk Worm. — It is sufficient to say of this, that is already introduced in various places, that it takes exceedingly well with the soil and climate, and must consequently realize every thing obtained already throughout the United States. Indigo — Great quantities of this plant are found indigenous throughout the country — people avoid its cultivation, as well from the labour as the noxious effects of its fermentation. On this ac- count it is proposed to collect and dry the plant, and send it abroad for farther processes. Palma Christi — Enough is raised to have caused the erection of a beautiful iron press, upon a small scale, at the arsenal, near to Mount Vernon, from which the finest castor oil is made. The same press will serve to express oil from the cotton seed, of which the experiment will be made in due time. Olive oil will follow. Yours, &c. NUMBER VI. I suspend for a while the subject of planting, in order to draw your attention to one of scarcely less importance, especially to small capitalists. It is grazing, and its concomitant subject of grasses. In this, the territory has no advantages over others in the United States, but it may be sufficient to say, that it is inferior also to none of its neighbours, for all the requisites for raising all kinds of cattle, w^ith sufficient water at all seasons. Of the grasses, the favorite of the indigenous kind is the jointed crab. The Gama grass of Brazil is introduced, (the indigenous is not so good,) also the Bermuda 13 grass, the Guinea grass of the Tropics, &c.; but theie is Tast room lor speculation in other kinds still. The stocks of cattle multiply with great abundance, but the breed wants crossing — and this branch, upon the whole, is susceptible of great iujprovement. Some of the greatest fortune*, at this moment, have had thsir origin from this source ; some even now have 2000 up to 10,000 head of cattle. In horticullure, this territory offers the widest field, both for orna- ment and profit. It is the country of the peach, the quince, the fig, the mulberry, the crab-apple, the plum, the cherry, Alc-, and every difierent species can be introduced vvi:h success. The strawberry is in great perfection. Arrow-root grows to any extent — Ginger has been made. Onions are very large — and, in short, the enumeration would be endless of such plants, flowers and garden stufl's as could be raised here to advantage. It has been so far our misfortune, to see this branch almost totally neglected, amidst the pressing wants of the inhabitants for more direct means of subsistence. Even for exportation, the fruit of this territory might be made an important article. The geographical position of the territory also gives it a powerful advantage in acclimatizina;, at the same time, the plants of the same latitude, exotics, those of the north and also of the tropical climes. It is a curious fact that there is no forest tree of this continent found in common with those of the tropics. Dare the hand of man to alter this disposition ? Of fruit trees, we know that ihe date, the olive, the palm, the orange, lemon, banana, have been introduced with success. Even if these should at any time fail farther north. Key West, and the country as far as Tampa Bay, offer a sure protection for them. The vicinity of Cape Florida possesses a soil in which even the coffee tree grows. In 1830, in the capital, there was an instance of one bunch bananas, weighing 10 lbs., giving 48, of which 6 were ripe, and of pine apples coming to perfection ; but the last destructive frost of February ruined orange trees, and every other tropical plant Permit me, now, to recapitulate some of the natural resources of this country, which want only the hand of man to improve them. First, innumerable mill seats for water power, and lumber of the finest kind — our flooring boards are already known and esteemed at the north. Then there is the finest live oak for ship building, white and red oak for staves, tanning bark in any quantity, the best cypress and juniper trees for shingles. The myrtle tree growing most abundantly, gives a berry which is manufactured into most superior wax, made by bleaching, of snowy whiteness ; starch is made easily and cheaply. Millions of superb reeds grow spontaneously, fit for a thousand rural and domestic purposes — the finest ])ipe clay abounds, also clay of the purest kind for brickmakers — the sea shores abound with shells, and the sea with an immense variety of fish, oysters, &c. 14 The woods abound whh deer, wild turkeys, ducks, and other gam« of the finest ria\-or, all for the killing. In a word, this may be deemad one of the cheapest sections of the United States for the means of subsistence. I have hinted at the want and misery of the first settlers, from which they are now happily reheved. It is painful to recur to these, but I must slate to you that interest upon loans of petty sums, was sometimes 1 a 200 per cent, for a few weeks. You would see men resorting to petty expedients to raise a few dollars A country gentleman of fortune could not raise ten dollars amongst ten neighbors — a shopkeeper would sacrifice ten dollars of property to raise one of specie — and last of all, only last year, in order to complete the arrangements of the present Union Bank, fifteen hundred dollars were necessary to despatch the agent, and subscribers worth nearly a million of dollars of property, subscribed the obligation for dis- count, and could not raise it ! until assisted by the purse of one private and distinguished individual. If you can still follow me in these details, I proposeto take up ir subject in my next. Meantime, yours. NUBIBER VII. I now propose to give you some idea of the face of the country of Florida, and in this I shall be very brief, for the reason that as many letter writers seize this as the subject on which to indulge their poetic vein. I, who am a plain prose writer, (not a proser, I hope,) and deal not in fancies, have no other wish but to correct the mis- apprehensions which have gone abroad (and with which I see you are tinctured) respecting this tprritory. In whav I have said to you already, it is my boast that I have exaggerated nothing. II you should doubt these facts, come and see ! I have said the ground is undulating : and I now add that the highest point I know of is Kingsbury Pond, in East Florida, 237 feet above the level of the sea. The capital stands 180 feet, (for- merly it was thought more,) and other hills GO to 80 feet— a great part is low, marshy ground, very easy to be reclaimed by the hand of man, and the remainder, like some central parts of East Florida, still admits inundations from the sea, and vast overflowings of rivers, as if nature had not yet completed her manufacture of the dry land. Much of this east part is wholly unknown, except from Indian ac- counts, which represent great waters in the interior furnishing tides to both seas. Partial surveys have been made of the coasts and rivers, which give the usual bodies of pine haumiock, dry marsh, low marsh, alluvion, limestone, marie, and even to Mangrove islands, (inchoate land ;) but as these surveys will be very soon 15 embodied in a more correct description, I forbear to misle'ad you on this subject. The best maps now extant are very wild upoo thi» part. A ridge of highland extends from Tallahassee eastwardly, from which descend the Oscilla, Suwanne, and Saiitai'ee rivers. To the north it is maintained with undulations to the state of Georgia ; to tlie south it gradually diminishes to the sea shore, leaving on the river shores and their sources in the low hommocks and on the lake borders, parcels of fine land for cultivaiion — enough for the support of millions of inhabitants, which now remain covered with dense impenetrable forests. The lakes here, form, with their subterranean sources, at once a distinct characteristic of this country, and a subject of intense curi- osity. They are found every where, and are evidently in connection with others ; or with rivers above, or gullies below the earth. They ebb and flow distinctly, — now covering a vast superficies of green grass plot, — now retiring to a smaller compass, of which some point is very deep, if not unfathomed. The forests which surround them are of great beauty, and by their thickness and their very stillness, have an imposing appearance. Som.e farmers begin to open settle- ments upon their banks ; which in some places ofler a good soil, ' thus breaking the monotony of the prospect ; and it is to be hoped that these lakes, in t?me, will present a more animated spectacle* The trout, the brim, the perch, &c. are found in their waters : and %vhere these fish are, the water is sound and good. I should fatigue you with a description of all of them, which have excited my own admiration. Suffice it to say, that in Middle Florida, Lake Jackson is supposed to be 36 miles in circumference, communicating with Lake Jammonic ; and again, by secret sources, rising in a huge mass, forming the source of the Wahkulla river. There are also Lakes Lafeyette, Micasucki, Sampala, &c. in East Florida. In West Florida, the Lake Wimico, near to Apalachicola town. All others form large bays, communicating witli the Gulf of Mexico. In East Florida, they may be said to be innumerable : Alligator, Orange, Macao, &c.; besides the St. John's and Ocklawaha, which are rivers of lakes. But the most singular of all — the greatest natural beauty, and I may say, the greatest cin-iosity of the whole South, is the source of the Wahkula, before mentioned, in Middle Florida, six miles distant from Fort St. Marks. Its origin, be it remembered, is said to be Lake Jackson, at 15 miles distance. This lovely sheet of water is 120 yards in diameter — so still, and of such perfect transparency, that the smallest object is seen at the immense depth of water below ; and the spectator upon its surface, sits and shudders as if suspended in empty air. On some future, and not distant day, these banks will be studded with private residences, as indeed even now the country round it is full of plantations. Objects of great curiosity, are also, the Big Chipola Spring, and the Great Manito Spring, of a bluish green color, with its circular basin, emitting it$ waters like a jet, and subsiding by turns. Some rivers too are v. ortby of notice, as exhibiting many of the beauties of nature, and carrying on their waters some rich freights already. Their highest banks are clay-bound? of various hues, and various states of adhesiveness, with sand intermixed, occasionally the rotten limestone, and crowned by animal and vegetable decom- positions. A rich alluvion is found to com-pose the adjoining soil, and forests of impervious thickness rise Ironi its suiface. As the banks lower, the ground overflows until checked by piny wood or hommocks ialand ; such water stagnates, occasionally in ponds and law hommocks, but is capable of being easily drained. The Escambia, v.ith its "black" and "yellow" rivers, forms the spacious bay of Pensacola ; but the country is sand, entirely destitute of fertility — the Choctawhatchie rising in Alabama and ending in the much frequented Santa Rosa Bay ; on its east side, in Washington county, are some good lands, but as yet little ex- ;plored. Chipola waters Jackson county, (which, joining Alabama, partakes of the quality of its lands,) then in Washington county -enters the Apalachicola. This last river receives the Chatahouchie and Flint rivers of Georgia exactly at the boundary, in lat. 31 deg., .and with the Chipola, further below, forms a magnificent body of water of 200 to 400 yards wide — bearing produce from Columbus in Georgia, Irwinton in Alabama, and other landings, down to the flourishing seaport of the same name. The Ocklockney is a large, but crooked river, traversing 250 miles in Florida only, to pass over a meridian of only 70. The smaller rivers of Wahkulha and St. Marks, — the latter after sinking under a natural bridge, and passing the little town of Magnolia — meet at the fortress and seaport of the same name. The Ocilla is also a fine river, and the Suwanee, with its sister the Santa Fee, cover an immense body of country. To the S. E. of this lies the famous Alachua or Arredondo tract of land, said to be one of the richest of the territory, and to the South the large tract of Hackley. The magnificent river St. Johns enfers on the east shore, north of St. Augustine, and striking south to the back of that city, form various lakes, which the principal is George's, and the last Munroe, after which the source is lost in undefined waters. The varying banks of this noble river, present scenes sometimes soft, sometimes sublime ; while its banks and islands aflord the finest land for cultivation. To the north of Lake George it is joined by the Ocklawaha, u noble river pervading a great part of the peninsula, but whose source is also undefined. These noble lakes and rivers — these vast fields of the caves of which I have not spoken — the very fissures of the earth — the birds of the air, and fishes of the sea— ofler an endless subject, of yet unexplored matter, to the lover of natural history, which no one here has to this day had leisure, perhaps few the inclination, to prosecute. I am, &c. 17 >UMBER VIII Of the cities and towns of Florida, those which claim the first no- tice, as the most ancient, are Pensacola and St. Augustine : the on- ly places inhabited by the Spaniards at the cession. They are both comparatively ilillen in importance now, by reason of the very unin- teresting back country to both, affording not the least inducement to enterprise of any kind. The inhabiiants are now reduced to about 1300 in each, of which the majority in Pensacola are still French and Spanish. Pensacola is, however, of importance as a naval sta^ tion, for which it is well adapted, and has its Fort. St. Augustine has also its fortress, and is still celebrated as a resort for invalids, from all parts of the United States ; but its greatest beauty, and on- ly source of profit, the orange groves, have been nearly wholly de- stroyed by the severe frost of February last : some only will be re- covered, and with great labor. Tallahassee, the capital, w^as selected and laid out at an early date, after the cession ; and the site is remarkable as a high healthy emi- nence, part of the ridge of hills 180 feet above the level of the sea, with a fertile country around it. It has labored, however, under the disadvantage of its distance, 21 miles, from theseaport of St. Marks, making the drayage expensive, for which reason, its advancement has been slow, the population not exceeding 1300, alihough it is the seat of government, and the legislative council. It supplies an ex- tent of country of 20 to 30 miles round, and on the Georgia side to Thomasville. But the business is now sensibly increasing, and a railroad being now commenced between it and St. Marks, which the state of trade loudly demanded, this increase must be rapid from this circumstance. There is a very pleasant little society at Tallahassee, and merchants of great respectability. The state bouse is not yet fin- ished ; one wing only serving for public business. This is surrounded by a lovely grass plot, in the principal square, and adorned with the superb forest trees of the country, which form also the principal or- nament of the outskirts of the town. A court-house and two church- es are now contracted for to be built. Here are two Banks each of one million of capital, of the utility of which I have already spoken. To the south of Tallahassee, and situated upon the St. Marks ri- ver, is the town of Magnolia, which has been forced into existence against the disadvantage of rapids in the river, which prevent all ap- proach to it, but by small vessels, and those with great labor and risk. It has proved a failure. St. Marks is the old Spanish fortress, situate at the confluence of the river St. Marks and Wahkulla. It is an appendage to the capi- tal and its shipping port, and that of Magnolia : it has a few stores ooly for that purpose ; but a plan for a town is now to be laid out. 18 find in a few years it premises to be of some iii'porLance. From this port were shipped upwards of 18,000 bales of coiion of the last crop, and the ensuing crop will give at least 25,000 to ship by the same ciiannel. The distance from the to^^n to sea, is 8 miles. Fish and oysters are very abundant, and deer and w ild fowl of every kind. Apalachlcola is a flourishing; seapoit, situated advantageously at the outlet of the river of the same name, and within St. Georges Sound, protected by St. Vincent, St. George and Dog Islands ; un- der these last lay the vessels of larger burihen. Those of 12 a 13 feet come within three miles of the town, and 8 feet can be received at the wharves. Durir.g the active season, thirteen steamboats plied in the river as far as Columbus, in Georgia, transporting upwards valuable merchandise, and downwards 37,000 bales of cotton for ex- portation from this poit — the cpiantiiy of both, and consequently the hu.?iaer,s will be co;!si>iera!jly increased the ensuing season, probably to the exient of GO, 000 bales. Jacksonville, upon the river St. Johns, is, in a mercantile point of view, what St. Augustine should have been, or Fernandina, the point o;' export for the prcducis of that neighborhood. In its pre: ent incipi- tut slate, it is even now the thorcughfare of passengers proceeding northwardly from the south and west, and westwuidly from the north, aiid will very shortly be of some importance. Key West has been settled ever since the cliange of government, and until very lately exported and im.ported to the value of 3-4 cents of the whole Gusiom-house Territorial Duty. It was first a small deposite for the trade to Cu])a, and the fishing smacks bound to and from tliot island usually touch there for clearances. li then became, as it is now, a resort for wreckers, who deriv a profitable trade fiom tlie disa^^ters accruing to vessels upon tl reefs around it. Great complaints were made about the adjustment of salvage in such cases, until the es!.abhshnjent of the present court, wiihrignts of admirahy, which, by iis decrees, has given universal satisfaction. The population is 300 to 400, including strangers. It is a rendezvous for our vessels of war, and a militaiy cor}.s is sta- tioned there, but its importance lias been lately considerably increas- ed by the establishment of salt w^orks in salt ponds, which are unsur- passed by any other, and whose product is capable of supplying the ^holeof the United Slates. Quincy, Mariana, Monticello, WcblDville, Hickstown, &c., are places still in their infancy — with population of 200 to 300 inhabi- lanis— generally seats of county courts, and supplying the circle around them with necessaries, and receiving dieir produce in return. These places will advance exactly in proportion to the settlements which are forming around them. Tampa Bay has no setdement as yet, except that of a military detachment fixed there in order to keep in check the remaining Indians, 2 to 3,000, in that neighborhood. In St. Augustine, the fort and some houses are built of Tabby, are- 19 markable concretion of shells, which is very useful when it can b found near at hand. In Pensacola and Tallahassee much brick ha been used, but the greater part of houses in Florida, are sti wooden frames. There is now, however, awakened a great deman for brick, granite, and quarry stone, indicating a vast improvemer in social comforts. I shall conclude with a few remarks upon the present and contem plated improvements in this section. First, is the railroad betwee Talahassee and St. Marks actually commenced. Second, twi steamboat companies have joined in order to transport passengers b' a speedy and cheap conveyance from New York to New Orleans via Jacksonville, for the completion of which object a railroad is t( be cut from Jacksonville to a fort on the Gulph near Vacassar Bay A third is a contemplated railroad from Pensacola to Columbus, ii Georgia, but it is very doubtful whether this can be a^comphshed A more feasible one, although distant, is a railroad from Jacksonville 270 miles, through Tallahassee westward, to the Choctawhotchie ri ver. It is also contemplated to clear the shoals in the Chattahouchie river, which impede the navigation in summer to Columbus, and last- ly, a canal from the Chipola, to connect the Apalachicola river wit! St. Andrews Bay, is still spoken of, although for the present sus- pended until a more favorable moment. If I shall have succeeded by the foregoing observations, in unde- ceiving you with respect to this interesting and growing territory, and in placing the same before you as it should be represented, 1 shall be sincerely pleased. So wishing you health and prosperity, 1 am yours, &.c. J. Narinfl, Printer, No. H, Will it. LIBRftRY OF CONGRES; 014 499 653 7