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By James Morris Whiton, Ph.D. Octavo, paper ....... 25 The Postulates of English Political Economy. By Wal- ter Bagehot. Octavo, cloth i 00 Lincoln and Stanton. By Hon. W. D. Kelley. Octavo, cloth, 50 cents ; paper ....... 25 G. P, PUTNAM'S SONS, Publishers, New York and London. V o^^A . <-N-~.~-3t, - 3» 'v'' . THE INDUSTRIAL SITUATION QUESTION OF WAGES A STUDY IN SOCIAL PHYSIOLOGY BY ■ ^ T.^'bCHOENHOF AUTHOR OF '^ DESTRUCTIVE INFLUENCE OF THE TARIFF," ETC. X"^ k^ NEW YORK & LONDON G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS / COPYRIGHT BY G. F. PUTNAM'S SONS Press of G. P. Putnam's Sons New York % 1 b'1? PREFACE. The nature of this work needs some explanation. When 1 wrote the first chapter I had merely the intention of criticising in the public press the misconceptions under which the great ques- tions of the day were held by the political powers then in control of the machinery of government. Not alone did the government organs show an incomprehensible ignorance of the true elements of price-making in products, but the public press, the legislative authorities, the public speakers, showed the same absence of a correct understanding of the relations existing between the earn- ings of the working classes in different countries and the prices of their product. The fact that the American laborer earns more than the European, is still taken as an indication of our inability to compete in neutral markets, or in our own markets, without the aid of an artificial device known as a protective tariff. In all these discussions it is usually overlooked that the labor-price by the piece is the only price, the only wage value, which concerns us. That the labor-price by the piece may be a relatively low- one, while earnings are high, has seldom been brought out in the reports collected by our official informants. To all students of the productive processes prevailing in the different countries, and of the labor question in general, the facts relating thereto would have been the only valuable contribution the government's organs could have added to the literature of the day. My own experience of business gave me sufficient insight into values of merchandise in general and of the operations all pro- ducts have to pass through until they reach the final price paid by the consumer. Direct study of the facts opened the lines which I have followed up in this book. It seemed to me of first import- ance to the formation of correct opinions on the subject at issue, that we should know the methods by which production is carried on here and elsewhere. To this end I deemed it essential to re- in IV view the great branches of manufacturing industry, principally the manufacture of textiles and of metals, which, outside of agricul- ture, forms the principal basis of our entire national activity. Having once entered upon this work, I felt it incumbent to bring out the close connection which production and distribution have with each other, and to show the importance of leaving the latter as free from restraint as the former. Of not less importance was it to show the difference between the value of the product as paid by the consumer and the price paid to the producer, as con- taining all the elements which contribute to the inequalities exist- ing in society. It is clear, however, that this difference is not to be viewed in the nature of a forced contribution paid by labor to capital, which is the ruling doctrine of socialistic writers ; but as due to various elements of distribution, just as necessary and es- sential to the well-being of the producer as though he conducted these processes himself. The tradesmen of former times were producer and distributor in one person. The nailmaker in the Taunus villages near Frankfort-on-the-Main, of whom I spoke in a previous work, " Destructive Influence of the Tariff," combines the two characters to the present day. What work he finishes during the days of the week he carries on his back into the neigh- boring towns and villages on Saturdays. He is producer, distrib- utor, and carrier, and retains all the profits of middlemen and transportation companies for his own use. Yet few would say that his lot is as good as that of a nailmaker in one of our nail-mills. The great lines of activity which modern development has called into existence, have of course done much to disrupt old organiza- tions of labor. The old landmarks, so dear to those who have been reared within their limits, are ruthlessly destroyed. Myriads of independent and industrious producers are swallowed up by mammoth organizations. Wealth is accumulated by fortunate men who are able to control, in production or distribution, the labor result of thousands and thousands of workers. But it would be useless to proclaim against this great revolution wrought by the wheel of time. Great revolutions bring up disturbances of balances. The world is thrown out of gear, so to say. But we have to get accustomed to changes, necessary results of the evolu- tion of the human mind when freed from all restraints. That only good can come from this ultimately, though the transi- tion period be never so painful, is clear. To show this by a care- ful analysis of all the organic elements of production and distribu- tion is the aim of these papers, and must henceforth become the principal task of Political Economy. I have attempted to outline the main parts. I have not given more than a mere sketch. I have reserved for a later period the task of following out with greater detail and more scientific precision the lines laid out in Chapter XI. For the present I must confine myself to these nar- rower limits. Many very important features of our development I have not even been able to touch upon. Much remains to be ex- plained ; many are the fallacies yet to be removed. To this pres- ent day the veneration in which capital is held in social physiology is extravagant ; equally extravagant the hatred of capital felt by socialists and labor agitators. In this connection I will only briefly state, that the great cause of misunderstanding lies in the miscon- ception of capital. Capital is usually taken as the employer of labor. The employer, however, is a person entirely independent of capital. He uses capital, either his own, or borrowed capital, or no capital at all, and still he is the employer of labor. As an employer, as an organizer, he earns all the net profits of enter- prise, whether productive or distributive. It is therefore evident, that the usual condemnation of capital, to which we are treated with equal frequency from platforms and the labor press, is meaningless ; as meaningless as the self-glorification set up in the opposite camp. The employing classes, however, will appropriate to themselves the profit share of organized labor, so long as the working classes do not possess the proper skill and knowledge to conduct these enterprises to their own and sole benefit. The tendency of modern civilization is in this direction. But so far we can discover only a drift and a world-wide distance. Education and enlightenment are the guides to all great forward movements of society, and will lead in this instance too. But competition is gradually bringing about the improvement in actual conditions, which has been held to be only attainable by extreme measures. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Our Industrial Situation. PAGE. Misleading nature of consular reports. Labor price of product and time- wages different things. Comparison of prices of American and Ger- man mill-products .......... i CHAPTER II. The Views Entertained at High Quarters Compared with the Real Facts. Erroneous economic views. Conditions leading to great productiveness . ii CHAPTER III. Cotton Goods. Average productiveness in textile industries of United States, United Kingdom and Germany . . . i8 CHAPTER IV. Woollens. How intelligent reports on foreign industries ought to be constructed. Greater extent of the factory system in America. Machinery. Re- pressive influence on foreign commerce of the tariff on wool. Increas- ing use of shoddy and cotton in wool fabrics in America in consequence of the tariff on wool .....,.,.. 23 CHAPTER V. Silks. The true relationship of values here and abroad. Higher cost of American silks due to other causes than higher labor-cost . . . . -32 CHAPTER VI. The Loading and Dyeing of Silks. Adulteration of silks. English reports on adulteration. Great superiority of Continental manufacturers over English and American in skill and technical knowledge. Dyeing and finishing ..... 83 Vlll CHAPTER VII. Adulteration of Fabrics Largely Due to High Tariff-Taxation. PAGET Great demand in the United vStates for cheap fabrics. A consequence of the great consuming power of the masses. Germany's and- America's consumption of dry goods contrasted ...... 48 CHAPTER VIII. Production of Textiles in General. The importance of the converting industries — principally in America. Labor-saving devices peculiarly American . . . . . 58 CHAPTER IX. Iron and Steel. How our prices compare with foreign prices. The inroads which steel is making in the puddle-iron industry. A tax upon the material is a tax upon work and wages. Our prices cheaper than foreign prices, if the higher cost of the raw material is deducted. Competition and inven- tion frustrating combination ........ 66 CHAPTER X. Pig-Iron. The competitive aspect of its production. The importance of free ore. Royalties. The transportation question. Southern iron ... 76 CHAPTER XL The Nature and Composition of Prices. The fallacy of the money theory. History of prices. Declining prices and great abundance of money. The true price-making factors. In- fluence of outside facts on prices and English rents .... 84 CHAPTER XII. The True Value of Our Annual Production. The share the different classes have in its distributive value. Agriculture. Misstatements. Manufactures. Wrong impressions created by mis- use of statistics. Actual earnings of the producers and the distributive value of the per capita product . . . . . . .97 IX CHAPTER XIII. The Wages Question. PAGE. Increasing productiveness of labor. Reduction of the proportion which labor bears to material in the price of any given material. Cheapen- ing of the cost of the product leading to its greater accessibility to the masses. Increase of the money-earnings of the masses. Reduction in the hours of labor . , . . . . . . . . . io8 CHAPTER XIV. The Influence of Freedom on the Conditions of the Working Classes. A historic parallel. Germany in the latter part of the middle ages. On guilds and workingmen's associations . . . . . .130 CHAPTER XV. Some Economic Truths Disproven by Facts. The fallacy that density of population leads to poverty. The fallacy that great competition for employment results in lessened earnings. French society of the xvii. century compared to the composition of American society of the present time ...... 141 CHAPTER XVI. Application of General Facts to Our Industrial Situation. Best European authorities proclaiming American methods superior to any others. Ocular proof in American and European employments of both elements side by side. American characteristics. Great produc- tiveness of labor in general. Universal application of machinery. Profuseness of production, necessarily requiring great consumption and unrestrained outlet for the product . , . . . . .15c Th value of the CHAPTER I. OUR INDUSTRIAL SITUATION — THE ADVANTAGES WHICH CAN BE DERIVED FROM A WELL-ORGANIZED, INTELLIGENT CONSULAR SERVICE. The most ardent believer in the doctrine " America for the Americans," will not deny that we are commercially interdepend- ent with Other nations. The closest constructionist of protection, from the supervising architect down to the humble hod-carrier engaged in the construction and maintenance of our Chinese Wall, rnust admit that we must look to other countries as pur- chasers of our surplus products. Of the aggregate of our agricul- tural produce we have, on a fair average, about 20 per cent, to spare. The manufacturing nations of Europe are eager buyers of our raw materials of manufacture, or of our food supplies. The most patriotic American would rather take sometliing in return than burn or destroy this surplus product of our husband- men. Barring the Pennsylvania school, no one, least of all our agriculturists, would consider it good economy. In point of fact, we get as much in return as we send abroad. Our wall-builders' honest intentions to the contrary nothwithstanding, half of our imports consist of manufactured goods. Of twenty articles of manufacture, in i860, under a low tariff of an average of 18 per cent., $180,000,000, and in 1884, under a high tariff of an average of 42 per cent., ^300,000,000, were the aggregate amounts of our imports in the same lines of goods. Adding duties and expenses collected on imports to their foreign cost, so as to bring values to our basis of prices in like goods, we were still importing in the fiscal year of 1884 : In silk goods, 150 taking 100 as the basis of our manufacture. In woollens, 30 " 100 " " " " In flax and jute goods, 1,400 " 100 " " " " In cotton goods over, 20 " 100 " " " " In iron and steel mfcts. over, 25 " ^XQQl^^ . -t At the same time the home industries in these very lines are now going through a period of depression and stagnation, the like of which has not been witnessed at any time before, not even during the darkest time of 1874 to 1879. It will be seen from this that we have to consider very earnestly our foreign commercial relations, and that our foreign connec- tions, along with all competing price-making factors, must be studied from all the points of view which our complex economic system presents. We are an integral part of the great world of commerce. A policy of exclusion may form the religious belief of a few fanatical doctrinaires, but as a matter of fact we are as much connected with the outside world as Pennsylvania is linked to Virginia, and Alabama or Ohio to Texas. Industrial changes in Germany, France, or Great Britain do not affect us any less than Pennsylvania pig-iron is influenced by the advent of Alabama iron upon Eastern markets. The plain fact, that we are still importing at this time, in the aggregate, of metals and textiles, as much as, and, if counting duties, more by a good sum than the combined imports of Great Britain and Germany amount to in the same goods,^ ought to prove the utter impossibility of creating an exclusive system by ^ Imports of United States, Great Britain, Germany. Woven textiles, 1884 Metal mfts. down to pig and bar, 1884 130,000,000 47,000,000 100,000,000 40,000,000 25,000,000 16,000,000 $177,000,000 140,000,000 41,000,000 Adding duties collected on these imports, ours exceed by far those of two of our most prominent competitors, one of whom admits all these manufactures free of duty, while the other subjects them to moderate import duties, averaging on the aggregate of imported manufactures about I2|- per cent. The account stands then as follows. Imports of United States. Great Britain. Germany. Woven textiles (millions) Metals ... Duties. 64. 16. Total. 194. 63. Total. 100. 40. Duties. 3. I. Total. 28. 17. ..Million dollars . . . . 80. 257. 140. 4- 45. any rational or even semi-rational device. On the other hand, we are not alone capable of holding our own in the markets of the world with our agricultural products, but are under-selling and out-stripping pauper countries in their best markets. But what is more striking in this field of economic phenomena, we are in many branches of manufacturing industries the best and cheapest producers, not only able to compete with, but to undersell the most-developed and best-equipped manufacturing nations of the Old World. In the better grades of cotton goods, brands like Wamsutta and New York Mills, we are underselling the British in their own markets. It may be said that the cost of British labor, approximating that of ours in cotton mills, is not a very striking illustration, and that Continental labor being so much cheaper will be more difficult to deal with. To this the answer is, that it is just this low-priced Continental labor which is guarding itself by tariff taxation against the products of high-priced British and American labor. Before the German tariff on cotton goods was raised in 1879, American shirtings were exported to Germany. This, in the teeth of a low rate of wages, and a much longer day of toil, and a lesser restriction in the employment of children than in Great Britain or America up to recent times, when by a system of more rigid factory legislation the employment of children under twelve years in factories was prohibited. The keen eye of trade, governed by facts and prices, had been making use of these chances long before the State Department entered into the busi- ness of reporting things which were known, and of not reporting things which were little known, but very desirable to know. How could it be expected of our prejudiced patriarchs of the old regime, of the Bourbons of protection, in the State or Treasury Department, to understand that the result of low wages can be any thing else but cheap goods and a consequent. flooding of our country with these pauper fabrics, and the only remedy a new addition of taxes ? How could they be expected to understand that the result of high wages and of a high standard of living might be cheap goods and a threatening danger to countries of a low standard of living and correspondingly low wages ? This is so beyond all theories of the very respectable and learned doctors and text-book writers that it could not possibly be true, if, alas, the facts did not all point that way. Now, I know well enough that facts not in keeping with the theories handed down by- venerable authority are no facts which a good and true disciple of the orthodox school need believe in. I shall therefore bring some very positive proofs and official figures, collected by the best and most reliable authorities. They may not be absolutely correct in all cases, but they are the best that can be had. They are collected by official bureaus, which fact ought to be conclu- sively convincing to protectionist readers at least. ^ The rates of weekly wages in cotton factories stand about as follows in the United States, Great Britain, and Germany for 1880 and 1881 : Massachusetts. 60 hours. Great Britain. 56 hours. Germany. 66 to 78 hours. Men Women Lads 56.67 to $10.09 4.38 to 4.90 2.79 to 2.97 $5.28 to $8.40 3.90 to 4.56 2,16 to 3.04 ^2.38 to 2.14 to 54.09 2.38 These rates would indicate, if taken by themselves, the utter hopelessness of English competition with German cheap labor, and of our competition with either. But the reverse is the case. On the one hand, we have a descending rate of wages in the ratio indicated above, and on the other hand, prices of goods in an inverted proportion to the smaller pay of the working people of the different nations compared. I have pointed out these seeming contradictions in "Destructive Influence of the Tariff" and " Wages and Trade " (G. P. Putnam's Sons). But assuming the true theory of wages to be this: i. ''That the standard of living of the working classes determines the rate of wages ; and, 2. " That where the standard of living is highest, productive power and invention find highest development, and production is cheapest," this seeming paradox offered above finds easy expla- nation. To be able to bring positive proof for what might other- wise be called fantastic reasoning, I requested a friend in Germany * I am not at all a thorough believer in the infallibility of the official fabrics called statistical reports, but I have verified by comparison wherever there was room for doubt. Cogito, dubiio, ergo sum is good doctrine in all that aims at human progress. to send me a collection of samples of German cotton fabrics, with lowest price quotations. I received them a short time ago. They are from one of the oldest and best-reputed cotton mills of Southern Germany (Mechanische Baumwoll-Spinnerei und Weberei, Ettlingen, Baden). They are well-known brands to me. Some thirty years ago, when an apprentice, I had to handle them so frequently that the numbers and qualities impressed themselves sufficiently upon my mind. The prices are somewhat higher than they were then. The changes which have taken place in the industry here and in Great Britain seemed hardly to have affected the Continent. Comparing these samples with our own goods of like quality and finish, and reducing metre, width and length, to our inches and yard measure, and German money to American money, I found them to be about twenty per cent, higher than our own cotton goods, as may be seen from the list of prices of corre- sponding American fabrics. (Both lines of prices reduced to net cash.) White Muslin. 30 in. N. Y. Liberty . . . . 33 " Gold Medal . . . . 32 " Hill 36 " Barker Mills . . . . 36 " Langdon G. B. . . . 36 " Wamsutta 36 " Pride of the West . . 1^ Shrunk 36 " Dwight Anchor Colored Linings. 26 in. Glazed Cambrics . 26 " Cambrics 36 " Silesia 36 *' " finer . . . . Cents per Yard. American. German. 4.62 6.20 5.40 6.40 6.88 7.00 7.10 8.15 8.50 9-75 10.45 9.90 11.75 12.00 7-75 8.25 9.00 10.50 4.12 4-50 7.25 9-50 4.25 5.60 8.50 10.00 If any thing, I found our goods purer and better, having more good cotton to the pound than the Ettlingen goods under com- parison. In close connection with this I will point to the fact that in 1878 some of the most advanced cotton manufacturers of Markt- Gladbach and neighborhood (the Rhenish Manchester) made an inquiry into the reasons why all their cheap labor and extended hours do not avail against England's opposite policy. They found that long hours are too strong a strain upon the frame of the operative, and that shorter hours are economically the cheap- est. They formed an association to reduce the daily working hours, which at that time yet extended to some fourteen hours, but the movement went to pieces from the opposition it met with from the majority of the cotton manufacturers. I found an occasion to make a comparison of a similar nature in metal work lately. A German manufacturer, formerly a resi- dent of the United States, lately visited this country. His factory works are well situated. The communal lands and forests yield such abundant revenue that they not only are sufficient for pur- poses of taxation, but frequently yield a surplus to be divided among the villagers. The women till the small farms and the men work in the factory, except at harvest time. Wages are low. Two marks a day is considered good pay. The works employ five hundred hands and produce annually $200,000 worth of goods. Yet when I received from him a statement (i) of the value of materials consumed in this production, (2) the amount of wages paid for work, and (3) the amount remaining to pay for profit and expenses, I found that the percentage allotted to each of these three factors is nearly the same as in like industries of our own. From this it appears that our labor, being paid three or four times as much, must be three or four times as productive as German labor in order to arrive at like results. Unless this were so it would be incomprehensible that we export annually from thirty to thirty-five million dollars in metal goods to other countries, where we have to meet this foreign competi- tion on even grounds, besides overcoming the higher cost of our materials; which are tariff-taxed, while the English at least are free. We are sending machinery and locomotives to Liverpool to be shipped from there to Buenos Ayres, etc., pay double freight, and still undersell Great Britain and Germany either in quality, adaptability, or price. 7 From the foregoing, it appears that if all things were equal, or if the earnings of the working classes alone were to determine prices, we should stand little chance in the markets of the world. But things are not equal. They are not equal in any two coun- tries. Nor do the earnings of the working classes determine prices, but the amount of work which they produce for a certain amount of pay is the determining feature. It would be very interesting for us to know what is equal and what is not — why we excel in some of our industrial enterprises, and why we are far behind in others. It would be of great value to our industrial classes to learn about the modes of production, the kind of power employed, whether hand or steam, etc., and principally the amount of work turned out by a competing industry for any given amount of pay. It would be of interest to know which industries are remunerated by the piece and which industries by the day, etc., etc., or what proportion of each system of pay is borne by each industry. It would be interesting to learn to what extent the system of domestic industry has made room for the factory system — in what branches the former or the latter prevails. It would be of interest to learn what number of hands is employed in the different countries to produce the same amount of work, etc., etc. We have now an extended Consular Service at our command. The State Department is publishing reports from our consuls at given periods, which contain some very interesting reading matter, but very little which goes to the root of these questions. Some few years ago feeble attempts were made to enlighten the public on these very points. The work on Cotton and Woollen Mills in Europe, Commercial Relations of the United States, No. 23, 1882, has some reports which do full justice to this matter. The report of the Consul at Manchester, Mr. Shaw, was as com- plete a piece of reporting as could be expected fron any one sim- ilarly placed. The conclusions to be derived therefrom, however, were so absolute a refutation of all the then orthodox views of American statesmanship, that he soon was persuaded to desist from reporting things not in keeping with the teachings of the holy books of the dominant creed. After this attempt we hear no more such dangerous facts as this, that so far as work and 8 wages were concerned, our operatives earned more mony than Lancashire operatives, but did considerably more work and pro- duced cheaper goods by the piece ; that this advantage was lost again, however, through the greater cost of coal, machinery, build- ing charges, and taxes, etc. A subsequent report from the same source tried hard to overcome the impression produced, but fortunately this one stands, and what is more, all facts prove it to be correct, and that it is the best piece of reporting that has ever been published by the State Department. It shows what invalua- ble service our consular system can be made to yield to the coun- try if in proper hands, properly directed. In the hands of officials subservient to the priests of the Pennsylvania deity we shall not get more than, for instance, what our consuls in Germany produced. Some, like our Consul- General at Frankfort-on-the-Main, extolled the beauty of the protective system and the great advantages ac- cruing to the empire by its return from free trade to protection. The good man did not tell us that in manufactured goods Germany always had a protective tariff, and that from 1873 to 1879 free trade had only existed so far as cereals, provisions, and pig-iron were concerned. As those were being taxed, a compensating increase of duties on manufactured goods had to be granted. This is the Alpha and Omega of the great protection revival of which so much ado was made by our consuls. That German manufacturers do not view the new tariff with the spirit which our consuls would impute to them, is proven by the reports of the German Chambers of Commerce. The manu- facturers consider a tax upon their materials and upon the food of their operatives a burden, and look with dismay upon any threat- ened increase. By other representatives of our consular service in Germany, the revival of trade coincident with the inauguration of the new tariff law was made use of as an illustration of the invigorating force of a protective tariff. This is in the line of our home argu- ment, which refers all the ills and woes arising from business stag- nation, panic, etc., of 1884 to the change (a reduction of an average of i per cent.) of the tariff in 1883. The consuls never mention the fact that German manufacturing industries were never more flourishing than from 1872 to 1875-6, the time of the creation and rule of the same free-trade tariff which (in the eyes of our consuls) had to do service as a destroyer from 1876 to 1879. What we want to learn is nothing but the truth, the whole truth, however. For this men are required who are capable of seeing the truth, and seeing the whole truth. To see the truth in eco- nomic matters presupposes the training for the subject, an open eye, and an open head. There is a great gap to be filled yet. Neither the government nor the press have so far supplied a want which is daily more keenly felt by all thinking men. I refer to the em- ploying of the honest, unbiassed, fact man. Government statistics, government research, have so far been influenced too much by political or worse considerations. The newspaper office, the editor's chair, is an adjunct of the counting-room. The true and great facts which underlie the creation of prices and condi- tions of product and production, of distribution and consumption, are either touched upon in a meaningless or misleading manner, or are left outside the scope of inquiry. Government might be expected to supply this great want in an age when the humblest individual is as eager for the news of the day as only the man of leisure was a generation ago. The thirst for information is second only to that for food and drink. Eco- nomic data, especially of an unerring kind, are looked for with growing interest. The importance of publicity as a corrective to evils arising in the body politic, in the social organism, in the world of trade, manufacture, and commerce, is recognized by all. It is admitted that fullest publicity of corporate management is about the only remedy which, under our present development, we can apply to the many crying abuses which have been practised upon us. To-day the railroads of Massachusetts are those managed with the nearest approach to honesty to its stockholders and fair- ness to the public, mainly by a rigid enforcement of the law gov- erning the publication of accounts ; a clear proof of the impor- tance of publicity given to facts relating to the movements of great interests. The greatest interest which man has in any thing of this world, however, is that centring in his own immediate means of existence. These are prominently dealt with as subject of this treatise. Nothing can be of more interest to workingman or lO capitalist, employer or employe, than a knowledge of the conditions under which foreign countries, with whose labor products we come in daily contact, perform their work. In this we might have ex- pected the fullest aid and information from our foreign office. But alas, what we gleaned from the pages published in monthly volumes was not of that nature. Of course for such work a staff of competent men is required. Whether the spoils system was able to supply this kind of men may be questioned. That this class of men must be selected to fill the principal consulates, cannot admit of any doubt in view of the immense pressure of the commercial and industrial situation. That the services of men of the kind, that could and would do justice to these requirements, could not be secured so long as the iron and wool combination directed the helm, needs no demonstration. To what extent the ruling powers were guilty in spoiling even good material is attested by a United States Senator, who writes to me from Washington : " I am glad you are going to write up our consular system. I have information, which I regard as positive, that our consuls do not regard their places as safe unless they send reports such as will please the ' protection element ' at home, and I have seen let- ters from some of them showing how the most valuable parts of their reports were cut out after they reached this country, which facts I intended to lay before the Senate before the close of the last session, but was prevented from doing so by other Sena- tors, friends of these consuls, to whom the letters were written, as they would lose their places if the truth were told. " The consular reports for the last two years, at least, have become mere partisan presentations of the virtue of protection." The immeasurable benefits which might be derived from a prop- erly organized and directed reporting agency are so pronounced that little need be said in its favor. But good reporting can only be obtained from a thorough mastery of the subject to be reported on. The best results can be guaranteed if done through properly organized government channels, as government can at all times command good services, provided work is not required which militates against the self-respect of those intrusted with it. To suppress truth, to state half truths, to color facts so as to please superiors in office, is not work that ought to be asked of the officers of the republic. CHAPTER II. THE VIEWS ENTERTAINED AT HIGH QUARTERS COMPARED WITH THE REAL FACTS LOW WAGES AND LOW LIVING GOING HAND IN HAND WITH LOW PRODUCTIVENESS. The letter from the late Secretary of State, Mr. Frelinghuysen, on ^' Labor in Europe " recently published, has brought out at last in full the wage statistics of foreign countries, on which the pro- tectionists had been feeding the public for so long a time. The Re- publican Campaign Committees during the fall of 1884 made the freest use of these statistics of labor, supplied by our consular ser- vice, for political purposes in the most misleading manner. We all remember the handbills and cards scattered broadcast all over the country. True as far as the statistics of the earnings of laborers in foreign countries went, the inferences and explanations drawn from them were the reverse of what the figurd? really represented. I called attention at that time to the fact that things were fully as bad as stated ; with the proviso, however, that they were worse where the protective policy had the fullest sway, as in Germany, while in free-trade England, as by the showing of these very campaign re- ports, wages were nearly double those of Germany. The letter from the Secretary throws a great deal of additional light upon the subject, so far as statistical facts are concerned. The letter speaks of the especially abject condition of labor in the Taunus and Spessart mountains, in Silesia and Thuringia, where the house-industries are still clung to with a tenacity of which only the very low standard of living and wages can give adequate ex- planation. In " Destructive Influence of the Tariff," and " Wages and Trade," I spoke of those poor toilers, a description of whose destitution and poverty and mode of living would hardly find be- lief among American readers. I feared then I might be suspected of exaggeration. I dwelt as little on these facts as possible. It will always remain an unpleasant piece of work to draw the curtain II 12 from the dark misery of the social problem. The true historian of his time, however, has no alternative left but to state facts. That my facts were not overdrawn is now proved by the State Department in this recent publication. Factory labor is better remunerated than the labor in the house-industries. With what doggedness, however, the working classes cling to the latter system and the quasi-independence and higher social position guaran- teed thereby, is shown by house-industries of Rhenish Prussia and Westphalia, Thuringia, Silesia, etc. Alphons Thun, in a work published in 1879 (" Die Industrie am Niederrhein "), gave some very interesting information on the con- ditions of work and the system of labor prevailing at that time in the Lower-Rhine country of Germany. I was surprised at the extent to which the domestic system was still prevailing in this most advanced industrial part of Germany. In the metal indus- tries of Solingen, Iserlohn, Remscheidt, etc., forging, grinding and finishing were nearly all done by different small masters, who take the work from the " manufacturer " and bring it back after each stage to give it to the following procedure. The "manufacturer" gets his samples from the master and takes orders wherever he can find them. The consequence is a system of under-bidding for the markets which presses hard upon the master, who again tries to get even by returning slighted or inferior work. Complaint is made of needles having no eyes, of clasp knives without blades or with blades which don't move, being shipped to foreign coun- tries. The truck system, which existed up to 1849 in its most disgusting and repelling form, being prohibited, there is still a mild type of it virulent now. Usually a cousin or a relative of the manufacturer occupies the position of examiner of work returned by the workman and likewise that of a storekeeper. It depends on the amount of goods taken in lieu of wages whether the work is criticised more or less severely or perhaps rejected altogether. In Crefeld, the centre of the German silk industry, the same sys- tem of industrial subdivision prevails — the conditioner, the weaver, the dyer, the finisher, " the manufacturer." Far back into the coun- try the silks go out to the handloom-weaver, who, with his whole family, in busy times, is at work from early morning to late at night, weaving the flimsy thread into all sorts of stuffs. When 13 work is plentiful, wages and earnings and living are high. From all sides and occupations hands are drawn in to learn the trade, and to be workers and earners after a few weeks of apprentice- ship. Then the weavers accept good material only for the chain ; they are independent and dictate their own terms. But depres- sion shows at once the very reverse, and makes suffering the more intense, as good earnings in the house-industries are apt to tend to increased families, whose members are very early helpers, but very undesirable inmates in hard times. Their stomachs have to be filled, work or no work. Now, the manufacturers pay reduced wages — wh'-- . there is work. Then the whole family go eagerly about in their emaciated condition to finish the work, to obtain the scanty earnings to buy bread. The " manufacturer," how- ever, is exacting now, though he supplies inferior material. By greater skill and harder and better work the master has to over- come and improve its conditions. We hear then of cases of de- ductions and exactions vi^hich would furnish material for a counterpart of " Uncle Tom's Cabin." I read of a case in Viersen, 1877, where a velvet weaver had died still in debt to the manufac> turer for an advance on his loom. The widow, who had just recovered from a confinement, finished the piece of velvet, and on returning the same had the full amount of the debt deducted from her pay and was dismissed with just four German pence, about one cent in our money ; four hungry children were awaiting her return. Now 1878 is a great distance from 1885 in this time of rapid changes of industrial development, and I had thought that the factory system to some extent might have supplanted the domestic system. But we find in the report of Consul Potter, of Crefeld, published in the Secretary's letter, that ninety per cent, of all the silks and silk goods made in Crefeld are made on hand-looms in the homes of the weavers. The report goes on to say : " This is called * home industry,' and its continued existence is threatened by the gradual introduc- tion of power-looms, and, of course, factory centralization. Al- though the hand-weavers of Crefeld are only enabled to maintain existence by long hours and unremitting toil, they will fight for their * house-industry ' to the bitter end, the decrease of wages 14 and its attendant poverty consequent upon the encroachment of the factory system making the fight all the more bitter." Then it goes on describing the idyllic beauty and simplicity of the weaver's home-life. But I pass this by, and will only point out that we have here for the first time an intimation by a consul that there may be differences of working methods which may make a vast difference in the result. Of course he does not say that we may be the gainers in the comparison, but he points to facts at least which ought to have been brought to light long ago by our authorities. In the whole mass of information brought out by the State De- partment, we find only one sentence which is an intelligent ex- planation of cause and effect. Mr. Consul Smith, of Mayence, states : " In Germany less is expected of the workingman ; less is paid for, and consequently less is rendered. Conditions there are more fixed, and the demand for promptness of execution not so imperative." This seems to cover the problem so far as Germany is con- cerned, and is a fitting answer to the remarks of Mr. Secretary Frelinghuysen in the concluding pages of his letter. He says : ^' It would be a legitimate field of inquiry to ascertain what are the conditions which enable England to manufacture machinery and other products at less price than similar goods can be manu- factured in France, and at prices equal to those in Germany, while the rates of wages paid to the workmen engaged in those manufactories in England are on the whole higher than those paid for similar labor in France, and, as the foregoing table shows, more than double those paid in Germany." And, I may add here, America, paying higher wages than England, is excelling them all in cheapness wherever she has an even chance to meet foreign competition. The answer is not very difficult. Man is above all an organic being. From childhood to the grave he does battle for his ex- istence. Every breath of air, every motion of the muscles, is a waste of tissue. His food is only so much matter added to his system necessary to re-create what is constantly subjected to dis- integration. It is the fuel necessary in creating the working power which we see turned into labor and production. A half- 15 fed or under-fed body can no more produce full results than an engine not sufficiently supplied with fuel or a horse half starved. If we applied the same rules to the labor question, which no one in his right senses would disregard, in these two other categories, we should meet with less crudeness in the treatment of the whole subject. An Englishman eats more and better food than a German, and he does more and better work than a German, An American eats more and better food than a German or an Englishman, and he does more and better work than a German, Frenchman, or Englishman. I will give the bill of fare of a family of three in a village in the Taunus, near Frankfort-on-Main, as witnessed by the author of *' Ftinf Dorfgemeinden auf dem hohen Taunus" (Five Village Com- munities on the High Taunus) during his stay of three days with that family. Saturday : Breakfast, coffee and bread with jam ; dinner, po- tatoes and coffee ; afternoon, coffee and bread with jam ; supper, potato-cake and coffee. Sunday : Breakfast, same as above ; dinner, rice soup with potatoes and one pound of soup meat ; afternoon, bread with jam ; supper, potato-cake and coffee. Monday : Breakfast, same ; forenoon, bread and cheese ; din- ner, potato soup and bread ; supper, potatoes and coffee. I find full corroboration of this by many authors as the rule in other districts, and — no wonder — the small earnings would hardly permit of more sumptuous feeding. This under-fed, half-starved German labor is frequently found to produce the saddest results. We find scrofula and hunger diseases to an alarming extent. In the Taunus villages and other districts alluded to, few young men are found strong enough for the army. Italians are employed for the harder work of road- building, they being found stronger. The descendants of the conquerors of Rome, of the giants whose very appearance made Rome tremble, have become so weakened through hereditary anaemia, caused by poor feeding, that for work requiring muscular exertion they must have recourse to the descendants of their ancient foes, who were a byword of weakness to their forefathers. i6 Science has endeavored to remove the question from the hazy region of conjectural guesswork. It has been proven that ex- cessive hours and insufficient nutrition are not alone a hindrance to immediate good results, but do infinite harm of a lasting na- ture, in that they sap the best forces of the body. Dr. Jaeger, "Die Menschliche Arbeitskraft," says: '* So long as there is a sufficient quantity of oxidizable matter (fats and sugar) in the body, the albumen in the substance does not suffer from exertion. But as soon as the former is consumed, the albumen is attacked by oxygen to the detriment of the living substance, whose struc- ture is thereby impaired. Upon this rests the damaging influence of over-exertion coupled with under-feeding." " The greater," he says in another place, " the quantity of albumen in the muscle, the greater its excitability in a physiological sense and its elas- ticity, the greater its power of endurance, the higher its natural capacity and rapidity of working power." " Only if there is a sufficiency of recuperation can working and vital power be main- tained" (Dr. Heinrich Frankel, 'The Daily Working Time*). Roscher, Lujo Brentano, and others might be quoted. Roscher says ' " Antiquity has very correctly pictured Heracles, the greatest worker, also as an extraordinary feeder." Lujo Brentano says : "A steady increase of the wants of the workingmen, aside from all other beneficial results, is the safest guaranty of an in- crease of their productive capacity." Few, who have given close study to this subject, will deny that Germany's low wages and low standard of living, coupled with excessive hours, are a drawback, and not an advantage to her in- dustrial development. Germany has not yet regained the position which she occupied in the fifteenth century. Neither her indus- trial position nor the general well-being of her working classes is now what it was then. Great national calamities have wrought her ruin. She is manfully battling upwards. But the way to re- gain lost position is not through taxation and low wages. We may admire the plodding patience, the deep sense of duty, the courageous endurance of her working classes, and may draw many a fruitful lesson ; but let us be watchful agai-nst the heresy that low wages mean cheap production. In the following pages I shall endeavor to prove, as fully as pos- 17 sible with the present means of statistical inquiry, that countries whose productiveness of labor has attained the highest potency, are those whose earnings and wages are highest ; and that, inversely, low wages and low productiveness go hand in hand. I shall, to this end, treat the great branches of national industry separately, and re- view the same as they appear under the working methods of com- peting nations. It will be seen that the views formerly expressed on the situation by our consuls to the State Department, were widely divergent from the stern facts of reality. In truth, by the misconception of the true state, the service adds to the difficulties of our position by fortifying the perverted notions of our law- makers with apparently logical support, which, if scrutinized, would prove the reverse of what the consuls attempted to convey. CHAPTER III. COTTON GOODS. In "Wages and Trade " I brought out a table of the raw ma- terials consumed in the textile industries of the United States, the United Kingdom, and Germany, and of the number of hands employed in each industry in each of these countries. A division of the amounts consumed by the number of hands employed gave these results : PRODUCTIVE CAPACITY OF ONE OPERATIVE IN THE UNITED STATES, GREAT BRITAIN, AND GERMANY, TAKING lOO AS THE UNIT OF THE UNITED STATES. Cotton. Wool. Silk. United States .... United Kingdom .... Germany ..... lbs. lOO 67 27i lbs. 100 77 60 lbs. TOO 68 The tables were reprinted by the London Times, and from there found reprint in the press of the United States and Germany. Statistics of this kind, however, need some explanation. The average reader is apt to take them without questioning their meaning. To the economist they mean, that in wool, 100 lbs. in America may be an entirely different thing from 100 lbs. in Ger- many or England. The same quantity may be counted in a condition not yielding by a good deal what it yields in other countries, as is the case in American wools. In silks a similar objection may be raised against my method of testing national pro- ductiveness by a division of the number of operatives employed in the industry with the pounds of raw silk entering into consumption. The pound of silk may be used in costly fabrics, consuming much time in their production, while other silks may be used for plain 18 19 work entailing far less labor, consequently allowing more silk to be handled by the same number of operatives in a given time. None of these objections however can be raised so far as the cotton industry is concerned, or certainly only to a very limited extent. The gross statement above, of course, shows in a very striking manner the superiority of American work and organization. The low productiveness of German mill-hands compared to American work, as illustrated above, would be difficult to believe, if we had no other proofs. In a report on the spinners and weavers at Ettlingen by the consul at Mannheim, of which I spoke in a for- mer letter, we find i,ioo persons employed on the premises. Had the consul stated the amount of raw cotton consumed, we could have computed the productiveness of the help. We might have had an explanation why the average weekly earnings of a mill-hand are not more than $2.16 (^2,380 is given as the pay-roll). Standing by itself the statement leaves the impression that pauper labor at $2 a week is a dangerous competitor against New Eng- land labor at the average of $5 a week, as in the census year. But, judging from the size of the mill as known to me, I do not think that an American mill of the same extent would use one half of that number of people and would turn out more goods into the bargain. The great number of people employed in the cotton industry of Germany is rather startling in its meagre results when brought in comparison with the great output of American cotton mills. Germany's consumption of raw cotton is about 300,000,000 lbs., with 250,000 people returned as employed in specific cotton in- dustries, while America's consumption in specific cotton industries is 750,000,000 lbs., with only 172,000 workers. Cotton, as said before, is an especially suitable field, as this is the only industry in which the nature of the stock is not materially difi^erent in either country, as might be the case in silk or wool, and as factory labor is the labor chiefly employed in it by all manufacturing countries. Germany, however, still has a very large number of small establishments in the cotton industry em- ploying under five hands. These are counted in in the grand total and somewhat modify the above given result. In 1875 there ^u were 1,597 spinning establiBhrnenta employing 66,675 l^ands ; of these, however, there were 1,079 eHtablishinents employing only ],477 hands, while 518 factories enii)loyed 65,198 liands. In weaving, 1,108 factories employed 70,437 hands, while there were besides 96,480 establishments returned with 133,052 hands, 'i'he consumption of cotton was at that time not more than 250,000,000 lbs., and if we take the 135,635 persons em[)loyed in factories alone as engaged in the work of turning into cloth and yarn the entire 250,000,000 (not counting at all any share in the turning process of this raw material which the 134,529 persons engaged in house industries might have in it), the inoductive capacity of German mill-hands in the cotton factories would not exceed 1,800 lbs., against 4,350 lbs., as the yield of American factory opera- tives. In neither of these statements have I included any hands engaged in dyeing, finishing, knitting in hosiery or other small cotton industries, but simply those engaged in the specific cotton industry. Comparing dermany':, itroductivencss with that of Massachu- setts in s[)ecific- cotton industry by the ninnber of spindles and looms and the number of hands employed in operating them, we get tlif following results : Gerinnny . Massuchusells No. ut HpilUllt-H. Ouu oilliLltuI •1.7"" No. of limmH, iiou oiuilttJtl B4 Na, of litiiuls. uau omitled No. of H|iii)(lleH to luu IiuiuIh No. of loOIIIH to 100 tmiutH • J'- 2,740 ^.7t>3 6a 153 According to this, 100 operatives operate fully two and one half times as many looms and spindles in Massachusetts as in Germany, and this showing corresi)onds accurately with the rela- tive ])roportion of pounds as given above — viz., 1,800 lbs. meas- uring the productive capacity of a German mill-hand, and 4,350 lbs. that of an American. To our capacity of competing favorably with England, I have refered in Chapter 1. As to France, she fortifies herself by discriminating duties against our cotton manufacture.s, — a for- midable pi oof of luM incapacity to combat our staples on even terms. 21 For our comparison, however, the exhibit of Germany is fully sufficient. It is a convincing demonstration of the working capacity of the two kinds of l;d)or : that of the United States, representing the best-paid labor; nnd that of Germany, represent- ing, under like working methods, and considering the necessities of civilized life, the poorest-paid labor in Europe. And yet with all these facts before us, of course never clearly broiigiit out, the late Secretary of Slate in his letter says : "The textile manufactmcis <>f I'Uuope, in their active competitioa with each other for leading positions in the valuable markets of the United Stales, have brought about an increased production and an annual decrease in the price value of their fabrics, and consequently the increase in the quantities imported is relatively much Jar^^er than in the values. This decrease in price and In- crease in (juantily have Iheir inlhK'iice in regulatinj^ llie wages in our mills, whicli must manufacture fal>rics and phirc Ihem on (Ik- domestic market as cheaply as tlie foreign manufacturers." And this is said when we have duties on cotton goods of 40 and fifty per cent., duties more than twice as high as the whole labor cost in cotton goods amounts to, which according to our census is, with all our high-priced labor, 29 labor and 71 material. As the duty is collected on the combined cost of labor and material (assuming that the relative labor proportion in Europe were as high as here), the duty collected would cover the foreign labor cost of 29 by 138 or more than four times, counting the duty as 40 per cent., which it frequently exceeds very largely in some fabrics. Uut in goods which we have firmly established here we could remove all duties at once, and we would not import a yard so far as prices are concerned. What wj import now are not any specialties of ours, which we produce on our 11,000,000 spindles when we have work for them. What we do import are goods in which other nations have peculiar adaptation by cheap hand labor, such as in cotton velvets cutting the pile, or in embroideries, laces, curtains, netting, or fme light fabrics, when we have not been able to spin the yarns, though we have tried it by imposing high duties on them, at the rate now, even after the reduction of 1883, of from 41.29 to 51.84 per cent. This is protection with a vengeance. England has jjarticular advantages in yarn spinning. The long training of her operatives and especially climatif: jufluctnccs in fine 22 cotton spinning are recognized by all the world as factors which cannot be circumvented. Germany and France import yarns largely from P'ngland, and use them in weaving their finest fabrics, which we are prevented from doing by a stupid tariff, and are compelled thereby to import the finished article ready made. This we call protection. Prevention would be a more fitting term. No government report can alter this — that our commanding position in the cotton industries of the world is to-day an acknowl- edged fact. Our export trade is growing slowly, and if it is to-day only $12,000,000 against $11,000,000 in i860, a quarter of a cen- tury ago, we have to thank our government for this state of affairs and the preventive measures by statute. Our cotton manu- facturers and operatives have long ago solved the question of free trade and protection. Every shipload of cotton goods consigned to China, every bale going to England or Holland, every case which has to meet in sharp competition *' the pauper labor of Eu- rope," is a most potential argument for free trade and against governmental interposition, an argument which could not be im- proved in its force by the sublimest piece of oratory. CHAPTER IV. WOOLLENS — SHOWING HOW CONSULAR REPORTS OUGHT TO BE CONSTRUCTED, TO BE OF ADVANTAGE TO OUR INDUSTRIES. A GENTLEMAN of the very highest authority in textile matters writes to me : " The consular reports, while they give a great deal of valuable information, finally fail of their true purpose because they give no results — that is to say, no clue by which it can be determined how far the rate of wages indicates the cost of labor. For instance, one of the consuls did give the conclusion, and this made his report the only one in a particular volume that was of any real value. Treating the conditions under which a common woollen cassimere is made in Belgium, he gave an exact descrip- tion of the machinery and its cost, which was a little higher than the same machinery would have cost in this country. He gave the product of the machinery, and its kind, which did not vary materially from the product here. He gave the rates of wages, about half what they are in this country, and the condition of the laborers not half as good as in this country. There he might have rested, and his report would then have been as perfect as the rest, but he added the number of laborers required to operate the machinery. This gave the key to the whole condition. There were two and a half working people in that mill to one in New England, and, although the rates of wages were lower, the cost of labor was higher ; still the mill had a huge advantage over New England, for the reason that all the materials used in it were free of duty. A unit could be chosen in every consular district similar to the unit of the common cassimere. For instance, in Lancashire, any specific kind of cloth made in a large way ; in Scotland, the ton of pig-iron or the staple tweed ; in Bradford, a given variety of worsted goods ; in Germany, a dozen stockings or some specific article of woman's dress goods made of wool. Each of these 23 24 being fully described, after the manner of the consular report of the woollen mill in Belgium, would give a clue to the actual con- dition and to the actual cost of labor, and would fully explain why the high wages of Great Britain are consistent with a lower cost of goods than can be found anywhere on the Continent." The same authority states that under the administration of the State Department under Mr. Evarts forms were prepared by him which covered the above subjects of inquiry, and, if they had been transmitted to our consuls with instructions to report only what came within the reach of the plan laid out, results would have been obtained of a highly satisfactory character. Nothing came of it, however, and the plan referred to was probably pigeon- holed under the succeeding administration. As to the specific application to woollens, the turnout of mill hands in France may be of service in this inquiry. I will cite the report of Mr. Consul-General Walker of June, 1882, in Consular Report No. 23. His report is exceedingly valuable, and contains a great deal of useful information, but, the great pity, almost all final points referred to above are left out. Once in a while, how- ever, we get at the number of hands and the quantity of work produced. It is further to be regretted that most of his statistics go back to 1869 and 1870, and are most likely taken from reports of government commissions under the imperial government. As France, however, is not a country of very rapid changes in economic matters, the figures may serve our purpose. I. A spinning-mill at Roubaix has 11,000 spindles, 22 self- acting mules ; 250 hands earn Ji 11.76 day wages, or 45 cents, and turn out 600 kos. or 1,344 pounds of carded wool yarn. As there are 30 dyers employed in the establishment sharing in these wages, this yarn is to be taken as dyed. The wool, however, enters the mill in the scoured condition, as there are no washers or scourers enumerated. We have here a statement which permits us to draw comparisons, although we know nothing of the quality or number of the yarn : 220 engaged in spinning 1,344 pounds of yarn (including carpenters, engine-tenders, and firemen) ; 30 en- gaged in dyeing 1,344 pounds of yarn. One hand turns out 6yV pounds of yarn spinning at a cost of 44 cents or 7^ cents a pound, and 44 pounds of dyeing at a cost of 53 cents or i^ cents a pound. 25 This brings the outlay for labor per pound to about S^ cents a pound, and comprises nothing but simple rough mill labor, without counting the cost of coal, etc., or the labor of employes or overseers. From reports like this one we could easily draw conclusions and make comparisons if we knew, for instance, the exact nature of the yarn spun. The machinery used is mostly all English ma- chinery. Neither English nor American spinners would have so vast a force at work to turn out so small a product. In dyeing no such force would be required in America as in Roubaix. One of our most skilled dyers, a gentleman who stands at the head of his art in this city, tells me that four dyers and two helpers would dye and make ready for the market with greatest ease i,ooo pounds of yarn a day, and that 1,200 pounds is a fair estimate of a good day's work. The pay here would be $15 a week for the dyers and $10 for the helpers. Let us see how the labor cost of $15 dyeing compares with ^3.18 dyeing : Dyeing at Roubaix 1,344 pounds a day, 30 dyers, at a cost of . . $15.92 Dyeing in America, say 1,200 pounds a day : Four dyers, at $2. 50 $10.00 Two helpers, at $i.66| 3-33— $13-33 Taking 10 per cent, off Roubaix to reduce the quantity to New York's quota, we have $14.32 against $13.33, ^^ still a small mar- gin in favor of American labor to make up for a possible excess of estimate. Of course, comparisons like this must not be taken as absolutely conclusive in all their details. The French, taking more time, produce better and richer results. The fact, however, that hundreds of thousands of yards of foreign dress goods are imported annually in the gray to be dyed here in American dye- houses shows that we are pretty well advanced in the arts, as the colors we produce in French cashmeres have to sell with the best French — a fact which goes far to prove that it requires not alone good dyeing, but also good materials in the fabric that is to be dyed to insure success. All our tariff stipulations have not yet succeeded in making American wools fit to be used in fine woollen dress goods. They may make a good-enough article as far as it goes, but it is not the soft cashmere that is wanted, and whatever is made here successfully to compete with foreign goods is made of the same foreign, mostly Australian, wools. 26 2. Take a mill at Elboeuf producing 100,000 metres of plain woollen cloth (reduced to American weight and money) : {a) Material: 75,625 pounds of fine German \vool at 8if cents . . $63,062 75,625 pounds of other wools at 45|- cts. . . . 34,834 151,250 pounds shrinks to 121,000 pounds, value . . $97,896 Cost of coal . . . . . . . . . . . 3,532 Cost of other materials . . . . . . . . . 9.107 Total materials ......... $110,535 {&) Labor: Washing, dyeing, sorting, etc., of the wool; spinning, weaving (power-looms), fulling, dressing, and finishing 263 hands, annual earnings ......... $41,937 The average labor per year is $159, against America of $298, in a year of equally full employment. The respective percentages of material and labor, however, stand as follows, taking 100 as the product (no account being taken in either case of expenses, profit, wear and tear, or interest). We have for France, material, 72 J ; labor, 27f ; for America, material, 79 ; labor, 21. In the French mill 263 hands work up 151,000 pounds of wool, or 580 pounds per head, while ours work up 1,640 pounds per head. There is, however, this to be said, that the French work up finer stock and put proportionately more work into Elboeuf goods than we put into our general line of woollens ; but both being of a higher grade, it would seem that the two relative degrees (stock and labor) balance each other. Our wool, on the contrary, en- ters in a less-advanced condition into our mills, and would lose considerably in conditioning it for the first processes of manu- facture. On the other hand, however, the French mill uses nothing but pure wool, while our material (taking the whole annual production as our part of this comparison) is very largely increased by the addition of shoddy, hair, cotton, etc., which addition to the bulk would fully compensate for the loss the wool sustains in scouring, and being all worked by the same total of hands in woollen mills would closely bring up the genefal productiveness to the weight in wool quoted as being worked up by an American woollen-mill hand. (Counting all spinning mate- rials used in woollen mills, such as shoddy and cotton used in mixed textiles, and dividing them per capita, 3,406 pounds would indi- cate the productive capacity of American operatives against the 580 pounds of fine wool worked by French hands, noted above.) 27 On the whole, the greater product of an American operative is obvious from both systems of computation, and their larger earnings are fully explained. It may safely be said from what appears from the facts stated, that, throwing all benefits of any doubt into the foreign part of the scales, so far as the labor cost of such woollen fabrics which can be manufactured here is concerned, it does not exceed the foreign-labor cost to any very large extent. Whatever can be done by machinery is fully as cheap. The higher earnings are balanced by larger product. The differences against us in fine all-wool fabrics seem to lie mostly in : First. — The greater cost of wools by means of tariff taxation. Second. — The greater cost of hand labor, wherever it has to be used extensively to give the finish to the goods. When, as in our woollen production, the material counts more than three quarters and mill labor not one quarter of the com- bined value, and this one quarter can be proven to be far more productive than foreign labor, then it is clear that the differences must be looked for in other directions than the higher cost of our labor, which higher labor cost is usually given in explanation of the large importations of woollens taking place all the time under a tariff protection of 75 per cent. The suggestion of Consul Frisbie, at Rheims, in warning against the Cobden Club and its unholy mission, is not at all sufficient to explain the conundrum. Free wool and an average tariff of 25 per cent, would be a far more effective preventative against the danger of foreign woollen inundation than our present 75 per cent, tariff and taxed wool. Considering the heavy duty on raw wool — all the way from about 40 to ICO per cent. — while duty-free with all competing nations, we need not go far to find the cause of our inabilities. There is, however, another point which is the strongest argument for free selection of wools all over the globe, unhindered and un- trammelled by any law. First, the influence of soil and climate upon the growth of the fibre. This cannot be transported. Even breeding cannot overcome natural impediments of this kind. The alkaline soils of most of our Western Territories give wools which are ill adapted to compete with the soft, elastic staples of other climes. But, aside from this, the nature of wool- 28 selection is more determined by fashion than any thing else. The industries of all countries are affected by her whims, even those with free wool. How much more we, with a custom-house fine of lo cents on each pound of wool imported and of 20 to 25 cents extra fine on the dirt and grease which has to be washed out of the bulk before the wool can be put on the cards, and for each of which two pounds of dirt and grease full freight has to be paid into the bargain. For the last seven or eight years soft fabrics have been in fashion, and goods made of lustre and combing wools, in which England has always predominated, were in small demand, so that wools of this kind declined considerably. Lincoln hogs, which in 1872 commanded 55 cents, were worth, January, 1884, only 19J cents, and now under larger demand are 21 cents. English exports in woollens, worsteds, and yarns, which in 1872 ^ were $190,000,000 had declined in 1880 to $100,000,000, and now for 1884 they have risen again to $120,000,000. While England's trade was declining, Germany and France, who had always had their greatest specialties in soft fabrics, were corresponding gainers. But now we find from both countries complaints of de- pression, which can be largely referred to this changing demand for worsted and hard wool-fabrics. Now, if countries who have the unlimited survey over all the wool fields from Lincolnshire and Sussex, and from Canada to Australia, and can land their wools at their doors at the same price as the English spinner plus the trifling charge of extra carriage, are subjected to this pressure, how much more must our wool manufacturers be suffering, who by stupid laws are limited to our unserviceable staples, or have to pay frequently as high, if not higher, duties on foreign service- able wools than the duty on the fabric amounts to. How our wool tariff obstructs trade and at the same time causes our woollen industries to stagnate while they might thrive and pros- per but for the want of foreign wools, has never been more graphic- ally described than by our consul at Sydney, New South Wales, who but gives the views of all those who have studied the situation in which the American woollen industry is placed. I cannot improve the description, than by giving in full his own words on this sub- ject from his letter to the State Department, of Feb. 17, 1885, printed in the March No. of 1885. * The heaviest export year. 29 " The people here complain that it is not just to expect them to purchase goods and wares from the United States, when wool, the chief product of Australasia, is almost excluded from the United States market on account of the protective duties. I believe, however, if a better knowledge of the character of the wools grown here existed in the United States, that the trade would be much larger than it is. "The Australasian wools best suited for the United States mar- ket are chiefly of light, sound, shafty fleece. These wools are usually produced in the south and southeastern Riverina districts, in this colony, and in the upper Murray district in Victoria. Austral- asian wools are, as a rule, soft-handling, fine-haired, and silky. These properties are mainly due to climatic influences, although the natural pasturage of the interior has without doubt assisted in developing these characteristics. Some of the high grades of wool grown in the United States compare very favorably with Australasian wools, but, as a rule, the American wools are harsher and are wanting in elasticity and fitting properties. " The modification of the present duties on Australasian wools would undoubtedly give a great impetus to the commerce of both countries. The United States would then draw more largely than ever on the colonies for all wools suitable for fine and superfine cloths and ladies' dress goods. There is no question about the American manufacturers being able to produce fine cloths and ladies' dress goods of equal quality and finish to those of the most celebrated mills of Europe, and yet on account of the duty on Australasian wool the American merchants are obliged to im- port the great bulk of these articles from England, France, and Belgium. " In the event of the reduction of the duties on Australasian wools, or of the admission of that class of wools peculiar to this country, and not grown in the United States, the American mill-owner would soon be in a position not only to undersell in his own mar- ket all woollen fabrics of a foreign make, but to compete success- fully with other woollen manufacturing countries in the various markets of the world. At the same time the American flock- master would not experience any loss by the change in the tariff, as the wools imported would be of a different quality from those 30 which he is able to produce. The advantages resulting from such a change would also be very great to Australasia, for there would then be a keener competition than at present for those classes of wool especially adapted to the American markets." The whole situation is reflected as in a mirror by this graphic description of Consul Griffith. Under such circumstances it will surprise no one that, in spite of our superior working capacity, our woollen industry is a declin- ing one, while the importations of woollens of foreign manufacture have been constantly on the increase. All the facts related above find prominent corroboration by comparing the woollen manufac- ture as illustrated by the census exhibit of 1870 with that of 1880. 1870. 1880. No. of Establishments 2,891 i.ggo Sets of Cards . 8,366 5,961 Lbs. Domestic Wool 154,000,000 177,000,000 " Foreign Wool 17,311,000 20,48(^000 " Woollen and Worsted Yarn . 2,573,000 3,900,000 Lbs. 173,884,000 201,380,000 Lbs. Cotton Yarn 3,263,000 3,517,000 " Cotton Warp 1,312,000 17,550,000 " Cotton "... 17,571,000 24.744,000 " Shoddy 19,372,000 46,583,000 Lbs. 41,518,000 92,394,000 The number of establishments and the number of cards has de- creased within the decade nearly one third. The material con- sumed, expressed in total of pounds, has increased, however, al- most in the same ratio in which the mentioned decrease of cards and establishments has taken place. In 1870 215,000,000 pounds of materials were consumed in 2,891 establishments, employing 8,366 sets and 80,053 hands ; in 1880 294,000,000 pounds of ma- terials in 1,990 establishments, employing 5,961 cards and 86,504 operatives. This would indicate greater economy in management, and greater efficiency of help, as in the former a capacity of 2,688 poimds, and in the latter year of 3,406 pounds per operative is the result of the year's work. Closely scrutinized, however, we observe very serious decline of the industry. The year was one of great pros- 31 perity, and still the largely protected industry could not give em- ployment to more than 6,000, or 7}-per-cent. above the number of hands engaged in 1870. Meanwhile the population had increased fully 30 per cent. Greater decline, however, is noticeable in the quality of goods produced. While in 1870 to 173,000,000 pounds of wool, 42,000,000 pounds of cotton, cotton warp, and shoddy were used — or wool 80 and cotton and shoddy 20 ; the proportions in 1880 stood: wool 201,000,000 pounds to cotton, shoddy, etc., 93,000,000 pounds, — or wool 68 and cotton, shoddy, etc., 32, — clearly proving that woollen manufacture has been protected unto death, making no possible headway against foreign fabrics, a con- sequence of the heavy wool burdens bearing down our manu- facturers. Under the high specific duty of ten cents a pound on wool in the grease, on the low foreign wool prices all over the world at the command of foreign manufacturers — a wool duty higher than the whole labor cost amounts to in medium goods, — it would be surprising if our manufacturers could prevent the large importa- tions of foreign fabrics. But with all this burden we are making progress, and some of our heavy woollens and cloakings may fitly be compared to the best productions of foreign makers. What the industry would be with free materials can be imagined from a con- sideration of our progress under all these obstructions. CHAPTER V. SILKS. The silk industry of this country is now in a very depressed condition. After years of nursing under the aid of a tariff of 60 per cent., lately reduced to 50 per cent,, with free raw materials, we still hear the same complaints of insufficient protection. Raw materials free, a 50-per-cent. tariff wall to keep out the neighbors' boys, and still not happy. Even the 50-per-cent. wall is not con- sidered high enough to protect, because the fellows from the other side have built ladders, called undervaluation, and thus are enabled to throw stones at us and make faces. So goes the story. Now let us examine this matter fully, and see if 'there is not a great deal more smoke than fire behind all this outcry. Undervaluation is at the bottom of the large importations of silk goods, according to the ruling doctrine advanced in explaining the phenomenon of an importation of $38,000,000 in 1884 (a year of commercial depression) against only $31,000,000 in 1880, the boom year, and $23,000,000 as the average from 1875 to 1879 in- clusive. The reduction of the duty from 60 to 50 per cent. ad valorem is another reason advanced. The pauper labor of Europe is called in also, to do its usual service in the consular offices as well, as with the clairvoyants who have the case in charge in the home offices. And so long as this explanation is always at hand, what use is there in worrying about new remedies, or about possibly other explanations of the sources of the evil ? That not all is going right, we all agree. But this answer does not suffice, and I aim to show now that the diagnosis of the doctors of the old school is not correct, and I will try and lay bare the plain facts as they appear to me after a careful study of the case. To meet all objectors on the outset, I will say that I fully understand the gravity of the situation, and that it is now a settled fact that foreign nations have formed them- 32 32> selves into a mutual organization for attack on our tariff wall, and that, in order to hold our markets, they keep selling us all their goods which we are able to use at cost, or less than cost, if need be. I will not for a moment dispute this protectionist credo— of the sinister designs of foreign powers on this republic and its in- dustries. I will admit that they dump all their goods on our shores at a considerable loss. In silks, however, they must go a good deal deeper yet, and the losses which they have to sustain to maintain their ground against our silk manufacturers must prove ruinous to them in the end, if the case is at all to be met on these grounds. The true situation is, however, materially different from all these phlegmatic views of indolent self-complacency, fostered by protection. This is the case, and I let the reader judge of the absurdity of all the above referred to assumptions. Our own silk industry stands on about this proportion of prices of component parts, according to the Census Report of 1880 : Silk and other spinning material, ^16,700,000 ; wages, ^9,146,000 ; profit and expenses, $6,170,000 ; or, expressed in percentage, 52X29X 19. Now it is clear that our working methods in the silk industry are different from those employed in Europe. We have it corroborated by good protectionist authority, that of our consuls, that to this very day the home industry is still the ruling mode of production. Power-mills are being introduced gradually, but as yet they have not very materially affected the general state, and cannot be taken into consideration in comparing present and past productive methods as reflecting on the industrial situation. In America, on the contrary, the power mill is all but universal, and if there are any drawbacks connected with the application of the American methods to silks they are to be looked for in other directions than in that of the greater labor price of the product. Let us take the district of Crefeld as an illustration, where, according to Consul Potter, 90 per cent, of the work is done by hand-loom weavers. In 1S81 there were 32,000 weavers em- ployed to work up : Raw silk, 431,552 kos. or 966,675 lbs. ; schappe or spun silk, etc., 215,555 ^^s. or 482,843 lbs.; cotton yarn, 940,014 kos. or 2,105,630 lbs. 34 According to Crefeld price-lists of that time the average cost of these would be : 966,675 lbs. organzine, at $6.75 . 482,843 lbs. silk schappe, at $3.65 2,105,630 lbs. cotton yarn, at 50 cents ^6,525.056 1,762,377 1,052,815 $9,340,248 This is the cost of the material. In the manufacture of these $9,340,248 worth of raw textile material, 25,000,000 marks, or $6,250,000, is paid for labor, inclus- ive of dyeing, spooling, shearing, weaving, and finishing. The 32,000 weavers earned 16,000,000 marks, or $4,000,000, an- nually (a prosperous year), or $125 against $250, the annual average of earnings in an American mill. The difference, however, startling as it is on the outset against American labor, has quite another face when we show the relative proportions of material and labor in both countries : Material. Labor. Material in 100. Labor in 100. America .... Crefeld .... $16,700,000 9,340,248 $9, 146,000 6,250,000 64i- 60 35i 40 We have here again the same exhibit which has been proven in almost every case touched by these papers : American earnings more than twice as high as in Europe, and labor cost considerably below the German or other European cost. Nor is this the whole case. We are using the silk raw, unspun. Crefeld buys all silk in the organzine and tram ready for the loom. The cost of importation of our silk in the year of comparison was $4.70 a pound. If we compute the relative cost of material and labor upon our American basis and condition, namely, to spin the silk ourselves and get into shape for our looms, we shall have to add about $2,000,000 to the Crefeld labor cost, and take it from the cost of material. We should then have for Crefeld: Material, $7,300,000 ; labor, $8,300,000, or material 47 and labor 53 per cent. Now, I admit that in a branch like silk, which contains so many kinds of goods, and where Crefeld manufactures so much in half- 35 silk stuffs, or goods with cotton backs, there is no adequate field of comparison. But there can be no doubt that the labor cost of goods manufactured there is as high as stated, and that we have to pay for it as well as for the materials used when we import them. They may sell them to us at cost, for dark and hidden reasons of their own, but the mere outlays for material and labor have to be refunded to the foreign manufacturer. Now, see how this account comes out. I will show it by means of a diagram : I. Crefeld cost landed here and duty paid. lE A B 2. Cost of American silk. IE A B D In figure i, A is cost of material, expressed by 47; ^ is cost of labor, expressed by 53 ; and C is the duty of fifty per cent, paid on landing in New York. In figure 2, A is cost of a like amount of material (being free in both countries), and B is the American labor cost as expressed above, 64IX35 J, and D is theblank space where to fill in all possible " if s " that can be raised against this mode of investigation. Undervaluation would only affect C in i, as A and B have to be remitted in full to the other side, and even if goods would pass the custom-house at one half the price of manufacture (the usual claim of the " experts " is one of a 25 per cent, undervaluation only), the line would be reached midway in C, which would still leave enough of a margin for the American manufacturer equal to the whole cost of his material and wages account. The effect of a 50-per-cent. undervaluation I express by E, equivalent to a full protection of 25 per cent. I will not enter here into a discussion of the relative advantages of the two labor systems in the silk in- dustries. Very material differences do exist, but the effect upon 36 the cost of production is certainly in favor of the American method so far as the mere money outlay for wages is con- cerned in the process of turning a given amount of raw material of like nature into cloth. Nor is it very material for the purpose of this inquiry to answer the objection which could be raised against the method of arriving at a fair comparison, that of not having the same products under review. It is not and cannot be a matter of controversy, however, that Crefeld's goods, which we find so difficult a match to meet under a 50-per-cent. protection, and as for that, Lyons and Zurich goods as well, are composed on the whole of fully 53 cents' worth of labor for every 47 cents' worth of textile matter we import in manufactured silks, and that, having the raw material, silk, at the same cost as the foreigner, we ought to be able to compete under a much lower rate of duty than our present one. But to those who are not satisfied with this wholesale mode of comparison, I will give a more specific example of the labor price ruling in both countries, as paid by the piece. I have before me the rate of payment to Crefeld hand-loom weavers, paid for weaving one metre of taffetas 25 inches wide (of 4 threads to the centimetre and 32 fine). This price list is from a committee of nine Crefeld masters, and is undoubtedly as reliable as any list can be : In 1867 2.50 marks or 60 cents ; in the very prosperous year 1872, 2.75 marks or 66 cents ; in 1877 a reduction of 30 per cent, below the rate of 1867, down to 1.75 marks or 42 cents, had taken place. From 1879 to 1881 wages rose again to nearly the old rates, but now, under the depression which is beginning to be very seriously felt, and is assuming more and more calamitous aspects, the rate of pay may be even below that paid in 1877, when 42 cents the metre of this 25-inch taffetas, equal to about 39 cents the yard, was paid. For the same count is paid in American mills at this period not more than 20 to 25 cents a yard. This is one of the finest grades, while in lower grades the prices for weaving on power-looms run down to 4 cents a yard. Though spooling and shearing are paid separately in Crefeld, as well as here, yet there are a number of auxiliary operations wnich are performed in the house-industry by the weaver, while in 37 American mills they are an extra charge. In the house-industries they are performed by the weaver's children in his narrow house, or by children hired for the purpose at a slight weekly outlay. Making all these allowances, and adding them on to the labor cost of American silk weaving, we do not yet come up to the price paid to a silk weaver in Crefeld at times of depression even.' The mere labor cost in the finished product of a pound of silk, spun, dyed, woven, and finished into pieces of goods of the same purity, will cost less in the United States than in Crefeld. The work account of a Crefeld " manufacturer " stops when the piece is delivered to him by the finisher, ready for shipment. That of the American manufacturer, however, is increased by the extra expense account. The Crefeld "manufacturer" has no fixed charges, such as mill buildings, machinery, fuel, foremen, and super- intendents, except the necessary help for the delivery of silks and examination of the returned goods in the various stages. All these charges the American has to add to his labor account. But the wear and tear of machiner}^, the interest charge, superintend- ing, and so forth, can be expressed by ten per cent, of the whole cost, and if added to the labor price, would only extend the line parallel to that of Crefeld labor in our diagram. Under conditions of depression referred to, a Crefeld weaver would consider 8 to lo marks for his weekly earnings a very satis- factory result, while under stated prices and full employment Ameri- can weavers make weekly wages from $8 to $io. It is clear from this that the pauper-labor theory is not suihcient to explain the price differences which undeniably exist. Of like standing would be the undervaluation theory as a means of explaining these discrepancies. That they do exist is a matter of record in our custom-houses. We collect annually round $20,000,000 on round $40,000,000 of imported silk goods, an unfailing proof that our manufacturers cannot compete in a great variety of fabrics. What seems more pertinent causes have to be looked for in another direction, and of these I shall speak more at length in the following pages. ' See Appendix. CHAPTER VI. THE LOADING AND DYEING OF SILKS. From Great Britain we hear a like wail of distress in the silk industry. The pauper-labor cry is used as much there as here. Macclesfield and Spitalsfield, as well as Coventry, have never been renowned for paying very high wages to their poor silk weavers, not for the last twenty-five years at least. Besides, more of the silk work is done on power-looms than in Germany, or France either. The rate of wages is a lower one than in most other Eng- lish industries — cottons and woollens. With these advantages, though not protected by any tariff, the British silk industry ought to hold its own at least. But instead of this, the industry is rap- idly declining — I might say, fast dying out. The net imports of raw silk (deducting exports from imports) were on an average : Lbs. For 1861-65, annually 5,500,000 " 1871-75, " 3,700,000 " 1879-83, " 2,500,000 The decline in the number of operators employed in the in- dustry is greater yet. Improved productive methods have made it possible to do with considerably less help for the same amount of product than in the high tide of prosperity. The imports of foreign silk manufactures have increased in the ratio in which the imports of raw silk have declined. They were : For 1865 /7, 260,000 " 1S71-75 ........ averaged, 10,400,000 " 1879-83 " 12,000,000 The British Government, alive to the interests of commerce and manufacture, has instituted an inquiry through the Royal Commissioners on Technical Instruction. The third volume of their report has been published recently, containing a very valu- able paper by Mr. Thomas Wardle, of Leek, on the condition of the British silk industry. As the prominent features of our own 38 39 situation are reflected by the picture drawn in Mr. Wardle's paper, I will introduce his statement, so far as it bears on the subject. Mr. Wardle lays the difference, where it properly ought to be put, upon the weighting of silks, as also the technical superiority of foreign dyers and finishers. Silk, as a fibre, is largely hygroscopic — that is to say, it absorbs moisture, atmospheric moisture, to a very large degree. Up to thirty per cent, of its weight can be absorbed without showing the moisture. As early as 1759 a silk- drying establishment was organized in Turin, so as to give a guaranty that the silk buyer does not spend his money for water instead of silk. Crefeld and Elberfeld organized in 1844 a joint- stock company, which was placed under public control, and whose officers are under oath to determine and declare the real condition and weight of each bale of silk, determined after fully drying sample skeins taken from the bale, and adding an allowance of eleven per cent, as the admissible degree of moisture of honest commercial silk. Similar establishments are to be found now in every large silk centre, guaranteeing the net weight of silk. Now, considering this to be the nature of silk in its pure, unadulterated, natural condition, let us see how man improves the gift of nature, to make a little go a great ways, and here I let Mr. Wardle have the floor : " I do not wish to be misunderstood as an apologist, still less an advocate, for this lamentable weighting of silk, but it will be my duty to describe things as they have been, as they are, and as they are sure to continue, until commercial procedure is reformed. *' There has been a great deal of nonsense talked about this question, and it is quite time that it was put upon its true basis, and facts and uses explained and left to speak for themselves. "For the English dyers I must say this : They are not fraudu- lent ; they, from the necessity of their vocation, declare their dyes and their weighting upon each invoice, and they, in order to obtain a livelihood, are bound to do the bidding of the manufac- turers. Whatever fraud there is, lies in selling the combined product as silk. " With regard to the weighting of silk in England in past and present times, I may say that I, as a dyer, never knew the time when silks were not weighted in some degree. This is but the 40 experience of every English dyer at least a century past. The difference between English and Continental weighting is in degree only, English silks having always been weighted to a much less extent than foreign ones. " It is often said that English goods wear well, because they are always of pure dye, and that French goods wear badly, because they are of weighted dye. This is not wholly the truth, and explanation is needed. " As is well known, silk contains a gum or varnish to the extent of about one fourth of its weight. This has to be discharged with boiling-soap solution for silk threads intended for the warp of a black-dyed fabric. Each pound is thus reduced in weight to twelve ounces. To this residue of twelve ounces it has been usual, from time immemorial, with occasional exceptions, to add from one ounce to four ounces of weighting matter, to raise it up again as near to its original weight as has been found desirable by the manufacturer in shaping the price and quality of his goods. The woof, or shute, being for the most part hidden or covered by the warp threads, did not of necessity require to be lustrous, and so another method of dyeing was and is resorted to. The silk is dyed upon the gum in the unboiled-off state — /. e.^ the gum is not discharged ; silk so dyed absorbs weighting matter easily, and the usual proportion was from four ounces to eight ounces of addi- tion, thus making each pound of silk return from the dyer weigh- ing twenty ounces to twenty-four ounces, but in some cases, as for narrow goods, very much heavier. Such dyes are technically known as souples — /. ^., the weighting matter added being for the most part in combination with the external gum or ' silk gelatine,' and not with the filbroine or silk proper. " Now, it is a fact beyond dispute that black-dyed silk, without weighting matter, is not so permanent in color as when weighting matter is used, and the reason is easily explained. A good black on silk, in fact the best black, is formed, as in ink, by the union of iron salt and tannic acid. Tannic acid has the property of uniting itself with the. filbroine or silk fibre and forming part of its sub- stance, and by so joining itself adds its weight to that of the silk. Black dyes without tannin are all more or less unstable. A good fast black, unweighted and proof against light, acids, and alkalies, 41 has yet to be discovered. Therefore a pure and unweighted black cannot be recommended for any fabric where permanence of color or durability of dye is wanted. " The process of weighting has been so handled and developed that dyers in both France and Germany have no difficulty now, by the use of tin, etc., in making their maximum weights up to 40 ounces per pound on boiled-off silk, to 120 ounces per pound in souples, and even to 150 ounces per pound on spun silk. "I have a piece of so-called black silk ribbon of French dye, the warp of which is weighted to 24 ounces per pound, that is, the net 12 ounces of silk made into 24 ounces, and the shute weighted to the frightful extent of 100 ounces per pound, that is, one pound of silk made into 100 ounces. This is scandalous, and no French silks should be allowed to be imported without the loading being declared or the adulteration heavily taxed. It is high time this was done, and its effect would be to give the English manufactur- ers a chance. " The skill of the French in weighting their silks has been one of the chief causes of the decline of the English silk industry. They are at present producing weighted blacks vastly superior in appearance to the old-fashioned English dyes, and yet considera- bly more than quadrupled in weight to the degree of loading. " I think this suggestion cannot too stringently be acted upon. It is necessary the public should know what it is they are buying, and this has become impossible as matters now stand in silk goods, because the art of deception has become a corollary with the scientific skill and development of weighting. " If the weighting matter were as apparent in the goods as cot- ton or wool when mixed with silk, the articles would declare them- selves, and the reasons for the proportionate cheapness would be at once apparent ; but the effort has been so successfully made to incorporate with the silk such excessive proportions of loading, that the weighting matter is no longer distinguishable from the silk itself, inasmuch as, as I have already said, it appears to exist not merely in contrast with, but in actual combination with the silk fibre, and to partake of all the qualities which silk possesses, except that of strength, for I should observe that the strength of the silk fibre decreases in proportion to the augmentation of 42 weighting matter. Even the removal of the natural gum, or, as the French more properly term it, grh^ of silk by boiling off de- creases its strength, and to add to the boiled-off fibre any adven- titious matter further augments this loss of strength. '* The wife of a friend of mine lately bought a dress in London — a black silk faille, of French manufacture — for which she was charged 20s. per yard. In a month the fabric was completely disorganized or cut between sleeve and bodice, although it had only been worn a few times. This was simple robbery, for silk absolutely unweighted would not have cost half as much. I ex- amined the warp and weft of this fabric, and found the former to be weighted to 20 ounces per pound, and the latter to 32 ounces per pound." I have made so full an extract from Mr. Wardle's statement, as it gives so impressive an explanation of the causes which operate against the successful competition of English as well as American manufacturers with French silks. To the bad-wearing qualities of many foreign black silks, the female member of every house- hold who owns a black-silk dress can testify. The heaviest, apparently best qualities frequently break the soonest. Ameri- can silks are known to wear better. Nor is this the charac- ter of broad goods alone. When black-silk fringes were used in ornamentation, American fringes were fully twice as high in price as German fringes of the same style and pattern. But for every thing that required solidity, and where the price war- ranted their application, American fringes were given the pref- erence. Indeed, they were the only ones that could be used. So well was this known to buyers of ladies' cloaks that their first ob- ject of examination was the fringe. The foreign fringe snapped off, or rather fell off like singed paper in response to any not over- rough trial of its strength, while the threads of an American fringe could no more be broken than if they had been linen twist of the same thickness. Colored silks are not much weighted, but yet the weighting can be practised to nearly 100 per cent, of the boiled-off silk. The greatest difficulty is in black silks. Plain colored silks are hardly any more imported, American silks having driven them from the market. With such an immense stretch as is offered in the ab- 43 sorbing quality of silk, it is easy to see how much more the pound of pure silk can be made to yield in yards or ounces of stuff goods than the shining, hypocritical surface tells the buyer. The diffi- culty and even impossibility of detection to any thing near the full extent of the adulteration is admitted. The manipulation, dyeing, loading, and finishing is practised as a perfect science abroad, to which not our most skilled adepts have been able to aspire. It will be readily understood from what has been said heretofore, that it is not a difficult matter to load silks twice as high and pre- serve the appearance, as our foreign competitors, with more skilful handling, are practically able to do. Under such treatment of silks our diagram of the relative cost of silk in Crefeld and Amer- ica will make a different showing. (i) Crefeld silk landed here and duty paid, if silk is of condition and quality of American silk. ^B. A B (2) Cost of American silk goods. (3) Crefeld silk duty paid, if silk is reduced to one half the American purity, and under the same proportions of material and labor as in No. i. ABC [A, cost of material ; B, labor ; C, duty.] In 3, the relationship of material (A) and labor cost {B) is the same, 47 and 53, as in the diagram given on a previous page on silks ; but the value of the material does not come to more than one half of our own. The cheaper silk matter is made to show up so skilfully that these silks, not one half as valuable, are frequently 44 preferred to our own on account of their finish, greater softness, and better color. And, as to this, the words of Mr. Wardle are as appropriate in our case as in that of Great Britain : " In looking to the future we must admit that the manufacturer will have to learn his trade, from the rudiments to the highest in- tricacies of his loom, and must be, like the French manufacturer, skilled in the manipulation of his material, and not a mere capi- talist, but a teacher of his work-people ; the dyer must be a man of liberal education, well grounded in the history and practice of his art, a well-trained chemist, and able to personally conduct all and any of the complicated processes for which he is responsible, and which he must thoroughly understand. The finisher, too, must throw his antiquated notions aside with his antiquated machin- ery, and by knowledge of mechanics and chemistry help to turn out the dyed and woven goods in that perfection of style and pleasing finish which distinguishes all Continental silks." This may not so fully apply to us so far as machinery is con- cerned, but who would say that the other strictures do not suit our case ? The progress we have made from recent beginnings is indeed wonderful. No one who has examined American silk goods, those especially of the better medium grades, can fail to recognize their value. No one who has examined the workings and organization of an American silk mill can fail to perceive what the results would be, if in other price-making factors than those controlled by the applica- tion of machinery to the art, we were equals of our foreign com- petitors. One cannot fail to discover, faultless as the work of the weaver may appear, that a great deal has to be brought yet into the art to give our silks, in most instances, the softness, the mel- lowness, which make French fabrics, perhaps of inferior value, so tempting to the touch and the eye of the buyer. To make an in- ferior fabric look and feel equal to one of higher cost is indeed an art in which only great skill and experience will succeed. Not that we do not attempt to make cheap goods, in silks as well as in other textiles, but they show more the imprint of incapacity than where a full supply of good and honest material meets the work- man half-way in his attempt to produce a sightly fabric. 45 Success cannot be reached except through workmen skilled and practised, and through masters understanding all the details of their lines. To this we must aspire through close study of all the subdivisions of the work, and not be content with the aid of superintendents, imported to do what ought to be the work of the owner of the establishment. The great textile industries of Europe are all the time introducing not only new chemical pro- cesses, but also new spinning materials into their fabrics. The Ramie fibre plays a not unimportant factor in silk manufacture. And, indeed, whoever has seen the fine silky threads in their combed condition cannot deny that it is a subject worth studying. The Dry Goods Bulletin^ of this city, time and again for several years now, has called the attention of manufacturers to the import- ance into which this fibre has of late grown in Europe. Only recently I had an opportunity to examine a sample collec- tion of fabrics made of Ramie fibre, sent on exhibition from Europe. Materials of pure Ramie had the brilliancy of silk, and half-and- half fabrics were difficult to detect from all silks. A chemical analysis of a piece of black silk of foreign origin made by Mr. John Dean, of Brooklyn, an expert of silks, revealed the following items as component parts of " original silk." I give his own description of his investigation as published in the Dry Goods Bulletin^ after having satisfied myself of the accuracy of his tests. " Chemistry and the microscope show up what so-called silks are composed of. With them no lacquard sham can pass for the genuine article. " Having obtained samples of black silks from various places of business in your city and this, and having put them to these uner- ring tests, with this communication you will receive the results. "Exhibit marked No. i is a sample of black gros-grain, $1.50 per yard, said to be all pure silk, heavy and rich-looking, and has every appearance that it would stand any amount of hard wear and so give the wearer satisfaction. Chemistry shows it to be adulter- ated 700 (seven hundred) per cent., containing only sufficient silk to make the two surfaces ; while the microscope reveals the fact that the woof is not silk at all, but ramie. " No. 2 is the ramie fabric with silk extracted in one part. 46 " No. 3. is the same again after having its various adulterations extracted. You will kindly notice that the little silk in the warp is a different color to the woof ramie. '' No. 4 is still the same reduced to a carbon. " As near as I can judge, this imported fabric is composed of : Silk fibre 12.50 Ramie ............ 6o.oa Oxide of iron ........... lo.oo Logwood, oil, and other matter . . . . . . . 17.50 Total 100.00 " Exhibits marked 5, 6, 7, and 8 have the adulteration extract extracted, which shows how little silk is used to make a heavy fabric. " No. 9 is strictly pure in warp, but woof or weft is heavily loaded. " Exhibit No. 10 is a sample of which America can justly feel proud ; it is not only home-made, but strictly pure in warp and weft ; the dye used, just sufficient (12 per cent.) to make it black, was the very best. " Exhibit marked 10 A had the same chemical used upon it as exhibit marked 2 ; you '11 notice the silk only is destroyed in this case (jo A). * Had much more been used,' to use an Irish ex- pression, * there would have been nothing left but the hole to send you.' *' Exhibits marked 10 B and 10 C are still the same fabrics, simple tests only having been applied. " Exhibit II is the carbon of No. 10 (please notice contrast be- tween this and exhibit 4). " Exhibit 12, sample of satin with its silk face removed. '' Now, sir, how long could such a fabric as No. 2 wear ? No wonder that good-souled old lady, Mrs. Public, sometimes gets in a tantrum, and gives way to anger, and says silk don't wear, and wonders iJbhy. " The fact is, Mr. Editor, she is too fond of a bargain when silk is concerned. She demands and insists upon having a dollar for fifty cents. I know not what manufacturers of other textile fabrics can do, but if it is tried on silk manufacturers the old lady will^^/ left every time." 47 Mr. Dean lays bare the root of the whole evil in this latter re- mark ; to the discussion of which point we shall devote the following chapter. But applying the philosophy of this investigation to our case, it will appear that it would naturally lead to better results if our manufacturers went to work to obtain all the technical instruction necessary to their art, such as the nature and treatment of fibres, colors, and finishing processes, than to trust to outside aid. The attention which the governments of Germany, France, and England are giving to these matters, the technical schools which are being established, the scientific training which is offered to all who prepare for the competitive contest of nations, show that we must not trust to the aegis of our goddess too blindly if we wish to maintain our grounds. CHAPTER VII. ADULTERATION OF FABRICS LARGELY DUE TO HIGH TARIFF TAXATION — GREAT DEMAND IN THE UNITED STATES FOR CHEAP FABRICS — A CONSEQUENCE OF THE GREAT CON- SUMING POWER OF THE MASSES. It will hardly do to paint a gloriole of superior morality around the heads of our manufacturers, as we find done frequently in our public prints, when explaining the greater purity of American silks. The silk manufacturer is not made of different stuff than the woollen manufacturer. It has been shown in a previous chapter " on woollens," from the aggregate of our product, how we have advanced in a brief decade in the practice of adulteration of materials, the purity of which is of far greater importance to the millions for health and comfort than that of any other fabric. Yet adulteration is practised to an extent which, to my knowledge, no other country has yet shown, in its exported woollens at least. What is proven in the abstract by statistical comparison is fully known in the concrete by actual experience in life to buyers of dry goods. With the reduction in price of known standard woollen fabrics a diminution in the quality and fineness of the wool or the closeness of the heft has gone hand in hand to a large extent. Frequently in mixed fabrics we observe a gradual reduction of the wool per- centage and an increase of shoddy and cotton, until finally little is left to vouchsafe the application of the name of woollen to an article shornof all but its name. Some exceptions of brands, whose manu- facturers rigidly adhere to the standard quality which built up the great reputation of their staple, show by the great success amid the general decline that the public is not slow to detect any hide- and-seek game. I will admit that the high price of our wools, compared to European prices, and the keen competition for our limited markets, force our woollen manufacturers to such prac- 48 49 tices ; but, if any thing, it proves that like conditions create like effects, whether here or abroad. What our wool duties force upon our wool manufacturers our silk duties largely force upon foreign silk manufacturers — adulteration to cheapen their fabrics in order to beat our high tariff. Our cotton goods show that where there is an abundance of cheap materials at hand our manufacturers prefer at least to produce pure fabrics, and excel herein their foreign competitors. It would, though, be futile to say that the art of filling cottons with clay and sizing is not prac- tised by our industries in the cheaper imitations of better grades of their American competitors. It is, however, clear to all judges that while we excel in pure, unadulterated American cotton goods all nations, in cheap fabrics, where sizing is intended to give body to the material, we are wofully behind. This art is nowhere so fully understood as in England, and nowhere so poorly practised as in the United States.' It is easier to manufacture pure, unadulterated fabrics than where mixing of uncongenial materials would at once show the ' England has built up an immense export trade more through the art of the finisher and other means of giving cheap fabrics a sightly appearance than by any other method. There is no secret made of this fact. If the barbarians of Asia and South America are eager buyers of thin fabrics, made hetivy by the admixture of clay, barytum, and starch, beautified by the decking out of the pieces with chromos and gold-tinsel bands, John Bull is willing enough to let them have the goods just as they want them. He knows that the preacher would be out of place in the dry-goods trade. He spends none of his valuable time in trying to convince his customers that the pure unadulterated fabric, such as we make it, is really the cheaper one. He studies their tastes and desires, which are mostly based on customs, grown up with the country or on climatic influences, and meets their deriiands and tastes. He aspires to nothing higher. Starting from these premises it is, however, somewhat mystifying to observe the " I-am-holier-than-thou " mien of Mr. Wardle, when he declaims against the dishonest silk manufacturers of the Continent. What they do in silks, the English have been practising for a half a century in cottons. If the English are not skilful enough to adulterate silks to the extent the Continentals are practising it, and give the goods the same appearance, the Con tinentals have never been able to do the thing in cottons as gracefully as the English do the trick. The latter, however, have this in their favor, that they sell the stuff for what it is worth and no more, as can be learned from the average prices of exported bleached cottons. (But this is also due, not to a greater degree of morality inherent in our cousins beyond the sea, but to the fact that the buyer of cotton 50 attempted substitution, unless covered by the most skilful manipu- lation. A perfect dyeing and finishing of an inferior article often necessitates more skill and outlay than fabrics of superior quality require. This is a far more prominent reason, why we attempt less to adulterate, than principles of higher morality. I can say this the more freely, without fearing to touch any sensibility, as I do not at all share in the common outcry raised against so-called adulteration or cheapening of fabrics by the ad- mixture of other than the genuine material. It is wrong to make shoddy cloth and sell it for all wool, if such is possible, which I doubt. It is wrong to make starched cotton cloth and sell it for pure cotton, if such is possible, which I doubt. It is worse to make loaded and adulterated silk and sell it as pure silk, because the adulteration is more difficult to detect and deceit goods knows to discriminate between cotton and clay. He seems to be well posted. An easy matter in cottons but rather difficult in silks.) Following is a list taken from the Board of Trade Reports of 1884 giving EXPORTS OF BLEACHED COTTON, VALUE AND PRICES. Price per yard Countries. Yards. £. in American cents. United States .... 53,000,000 1,468,000 1325 France ..... 50,589,000 1,023,000 9.80 Germany ..... 48,757,000 823,000 8.25 Belgium and Holland . 107,000,000 1,580,000 7-25 All other European States incl. Turkey ..... 503,000,000 6,164,000 6 Egypt 124,000,000 1,236,000 4.84 Central and South Am. States and W. India 642,000,000 7,848,000 4.88 China and Japan .... 440,000,000 4,700,000 5-17 British India .... 1,792,000,000 17,650,000 4.75 A trade which has to depend on the masses of the people, as in cotton goods, has to adapt itself to the purchasing powers of those for whom it caters. The clear understanding of this plain principle seems to be at the bottom of England's success. There is no room for sentiment in the brani of the British trader. There is little doubt that the want of adaptation to the customs, habits, and necessities of foreign nations has been one of the main causes of backwardness of extending our trade in cotton goods beyond the 10 or 12 millions between which points it has been oscillating during the last five years. It had been the same figure in i860. The British exports of cotton goods within this time varied between the sums of 350 and 380 million dollars. 51 is easier practised. But even in this branch we begin to under- stand the case, and the public has the remedy of rejection at hand. The prices at which these adulterations and imitations are sold in the market show clearly that the scrutinizing price-regulator is actively at work in giving the true level to fraud and deceit. But aside from the bad feature of selling an inferior article at the high price of the genuine article, which, however, cannot be practised for a very long period, or of the equally bad feature of forcing inferior woollens or shoddy goods upon our customers at prices of genuine pure woollens (largely due to the government tax on genu- ine wool), this adulteration of fabrics is nothing more than a rec- ognition of the commercial situation created by the democratic organization of our civilization. All our industries are bent on gaining the largest possible markets among the millions. Few of our capitalists, manufacturers, or merchants would care to embark in any enterprise where they could not feel sure that they could gain the patronage, the custom of the great masses of the people, the millions of bread-winners with small incomes. They recog- nize the comparatively small value of the trade of the few wealthy who use the finer fabrics. They know the great purchasing power of the collective incomes of the poorer classes. No nation can show so great a proportion of its people engaged in useful occu- pations. No nation can show so great a proportion of its labors ing people earning sums of money which in Europe would be considered fair incomes of the middle classes. This, of course, creates great purchasing power, which is freely exercised. There is a spirit of " I-am-as-good-as-you " about, which happily cannot be crushed even by momentary depression. Even if silks are high, they are bought nevertheless. On a Sunday our working girls are as well dressed as anybody, and if a 50-per-cent. tariff makes silks too costly in the pure state, they have to be satisfied with the substitute. This cheapening of fabrics is simply the attempt to meet the capacity of the slender purses of our millions. The nearest remedy against adulteration would be an abolition of duties, which would bring the pure article within the reach of the less pecunious classes who share in the annual consumption of a hundred millions of silk goods — American value, adding duties paid the government. High duties upon the material are a pre- 52 mium upon adulteration at home. High duties upon fabrics are a premium upon adulteration abroad. We cannot escape from this result of our fiscal system. We cannot eat our pudding and have it too. Our people love to be well dressed. If our government removes from their reach the genuine thing, which their love of the beautiful would prefer to have, why, they have to take the nearest thing they can get, the imitation. The cheapening of fabrics, through any new process or means of reducing the price, at once increases the consumption in a most unexpected manner. Cotton embroideries, made in Switzerland and Saxony on so-called Swiss machines, have been imported formerly in limited quantities. The great profits made originally by the manufacturers, however, caused so many machines to be built, the competition became so keen, that where 38 centimes was the average for a hundred stitches in St. Gall for 1875, ^^^ same work is done now for 25 c, and in dull times as low as 20 c. To meet the demand for cheap and showy trimmings, necessarily arising in a country of a social organization like ours, some American houses in response thereto have opened branches there, and have their embroideries made to suit their trade. They use cheaper materials, copy or have designed rich patterns used in high-cost goods, and by reducing the number of stitches employed in the more costly work obtain effects nearly similar to that, but at considerably less price, and are enabled thereby to outsell their competitors. They have built up an immense trade within the last years, selling cheap goods at moderate prices and moder- ate profits. The outcry of fraud had also been raised against these importers, — the easiest explanation given to new facts, not studied usually by those in possession of an old-established trade. But to-morrow is the deadly foe of to-day, as to-day is of yester- day. Though we all suffer decline and death in this truism, yet it is the cradle of all growth and progress. Competitive forces are so keen and active to-day that they de- . molish in the briefest time the most gigantic structures of wealth and trading power. To fight and obstruct them is like the fight of the elephant and the locomotive. In the case cited above the United States Treasury Department had come to the aid of the old-established importing houses on 53 whom the new system has had the most injurious effect. The tra- ditional policy of the United States Government for the last twenty- five years has been to increase prices by legislation and executive action. It cannot surprise, therefore, that superficial observers should only see fraud and undervaluation in any introduction of goods, at prices cheaper than the official mind can explain, into the trade centres of this country. My most careful inquiry into the practices of the importers of embroideries has not enabled me to detect more than this perfectly legitimate and natural design of competitive forces. Now, this cheapening of an article of luxury has been the cause that the importations of embroideries have more than doubled in value, and perhaps quadrupled in bulk, within the last six or eight years— all clearly in response to the great consumptive capacity of the poorer classes of our population. The great power of absorption of textile fabrics by the Ameri- can people, taken per capita, can best be shown by comparing Germany's home consumption of textile fabrics with those of America. I have to arrive at the result in a roundabout way. Ger- many has no census enumeration of manufacturing industries as we have it. In taking the value of raw material as the basis of calcula- toin, we can, however, get at the relative total values of production. I propose to take the English export value of the material and add ICG per cent, as the cost of manufacture. This is to cover the labor cost, general manufacturing expense, rent, taxes, interest, and manufacturer's profit. It is somewhat in excess of our own manufacturing cost of the aggregate of our textile, industries, which stand as follows : ^ Carpets . . . • • Cotton goods .... Mixed textiles .... Silk goods Wool hats, woollens, and worsteds Cordage and twine Totals Material. $19,000,000 113,700,000 37,200,000 22,400,000 127,500,000 9,300,000 $529,100,000 Labor. $6,800,000 45,600,000 13,300,000 9,100,000 33,400,000 1,500,000 $109,700,000 Product. $31,800,000 211,000,000 66,200,000 41,000,000 203,000,000 12,500,000 $565,500,000 Or, addition to cost of material, 72 per cent. 54 The difference between this and the assumed percentage addi- tion of loo will cover part of distributing expense not contained in the above. Both countries being treated alike, the result will not be affected very materially. a. AMERICAN CONSUMPTION OF TEXTILES. I. — Manufacturing, 1880 : Cotton, 961,000,000 pounds, at 14 c Flax, hemp, sisal, jute, etc., 100,000,000 pounds, at 8 c. Silk, raw, 2,900,000 pounds, at $4.75 Clothing wool, 260,000,000 C 210,000,000 pounds), at 25 c Carpet wools, 36,000,000 pounds, at 15 c. . 5134,540,000 8,000,000 13.775,000 52,500,000 5,400,000 Total $214,215,000 I count no other mill supplies, dye-stuffs, etc., but simply textile raw materials in the above. These other items amount to a total of $42,000,000, and would bring our material cost (all of which is first count, as I have eliminated all duplications) equal to foreign cost of $256,000,000, or : Manufactured value of ....... $512,000,000 From this we have to deduct exports : Cotton goods, cordage, etc., say ..... Leaving .... We have to add now foreign imports Cotton manufactures Flax, hemp, jute, etc. Silk manufactures . Woollen manufactures 14,000,000 $498,000,000 $30,000,000 25,500,000 32,300,000 34,000,000 Total 5121,800,000 Or, all textiles, home- and foreign-made .... $619,800,000 This represents first cost, and does not include distributive, fiscal, or other expense than that included in manufacturing cost. Per capita of population it represents $620 divided by 50, equals $12.40 ; or, for each group of three, according to the census, it equals $37.20. ^ American vi^ools, as rendered to mills, shrinking more than German wools valued at 25 c, in our account will have to be reduced 20 per cent, to bring them at a par with German wools. The census figures for all wools consumed in our mills, both foreign and domestic, are taken as $84,000,000. The differ- ence of $32,000,000 may fairly be taken as expressing the difference in the cost between foreign and American manufacturers. 55 Now let us see how Germany is situated : b. — Germany's consumption of textiles. I. — Manufacturing, 1880 : Cotton, 300,000,000 lbs., at 14c $42,000,000 Flax, hemp, jute, etc., 247,000,000 lbs., at 8c. . . 19,760,000 Silk, 5,100,000 lbs., at $4.75 24,225,000 Wool, 190,000,000 lbs., at 25c. . . . . . 47,500,000 Spinning materials . . .... $133,485,000 To this we have to add 20 per cent, for mill supplies, etc., as in a, or 26,000,000 II. — Excess of imports of yarns over exports, according to the Statistical Year-Book of the German Empire, 1 88 1, 140,000,000 marks, or 34,000,000 $193,485,000 As we import all our spinning materials raw, or almost wholly so, while Germany uses large quantities of foreign yarns, it will be seen that the addition of 100 per cent, to represent the cost of manufacture is excessive in this instance. Intending, however, to throw all the benefits of the doubt to the German side, as I wish to show our superiority as consumers of textiles, I will not go into closer scrutiny of this item. We have now, therefore, a German textile production of round $380,000,000, against $512,- 000,000 of ours, on the basis of materials of an equality of cost, and not on the basis of taxed materials and fabrics, raising Ameri- can valuation. But while we have to draw on foreign supply to the extent of 25 per cent, of our total product to fill our home demand, Germany has a large part of her smaller product over for export. Production . $380,000,000 III. — Excess of German exports over imports of textile fabrics — Statistical Year-Book, 1881 : Exports .... marks 675,000,000 Imports . . . . . . 104,000,000 571,000,000 Clothing, millinery, etc., amounting in excess of imports to 95,000,000. As about one third of this sum expresses labor and profits, etc., engaged in converting the material, we have to deduct, say . , 35,000,000 And have left, .... marks 536,000,000 To deduct as excess of exports, or . . . . . . 127,000,000 Which leaves for consumption at home ..... $253,000,000 56 The population at 45,000,000 is $253 divided by 45 equals $5.62 per capita, which per group of 3 gives $16,86 for Germany, against $37,20 for America.^ In other words, our higher standard of living, and consequent greater productiveness, enables our working people to consume by nearly two and a half times more of textiles than people of a lower standard of living and lower productiveness. A cardinal point in this discussion is that great productiveness finds its natural equation in the greater consuming power of the people. Great consuming power of the masses naturally leads to great productive power. Both supplement each other. If the consuming power of the American were not greater than that of the German people, then the home product and imports of textiles of 1880 would be sufficient to cover a nation of 110,000,000 people instead of 50,000,000. 50,000,000 X 1,240 — ^ —- —^— = 110,320,000. 562 If the German people had the consuming capacity of the American people, then Germany could find a market at home for $558,000,000 of dry goods, instead of $253,000,000, her present consumption. 253,000,000 X 1,240 — = 558,220,000 The wealthy and well-to-do classes of all countries stand on about an equality as regards the consumption of dry goods. The ^ This is the first value. The distributive value, of course, is considerably higher. The annual outlay of the consumer for dry goods would be, according to our method adopted in chapter XII., as follows in America : As above in A $620,000,000 Duty on imported dry goods and textile fibres . . . . 67,000,000 Increased cost of domestic raw material on acct. of protection . 35,000,000 Increased cost on this raw material and other increase on acct. of protection .......... 50,000,000 And 15 $^ for wholesaler's gross profit ..... 115,000,000 '• 20^ '* retailer's «« 178,000,000 And we have a gross value of ...... .$1,065,000,000 as the annual outlay of our consuming millions for dry goods. Boots and shoes, and the additional expense for converting into clothing either by manu- facturers, seamstress, or tailor, is not included in this. 57 great divergence in our two examples is mainly due to the greater purchasing power of our working people. If there were no other proof, these tables alone would be sufficient to prove that the well-being of the working classes is the only sure fundament of a nation's lasting and solid prosperity. To the enhancement of this all intellectual forces must apply themselves. Raise their standard, and all else will be raised by natural gravitation. The capitalist, the employer, the merchant, the professional man, all in turn find increased prosperity from this greater ability to consume, inherent in our working people. But this greater con- suming power cannot be maintained, far less increased, by taxing the dollar of the workingman,^ but, on the contrary, by the elimi- nation of all taxes, public, corporate, or private, so far as possible, therefrom. CHAPTER VIII. PRODUCTION OF TEXTILES IN GENERAL — THE IMPORTANCE OF THE CONVERTING INDUSTRIES LABOR-SAVING DEVICES. Next to the agricultural interest, that of textile industries is of the greatest importance commercially and economically. If for no other reason than as employer of labor, it would be well worthy of the most earnest attention of the statesman. In con- nection with foreign affairs, the importance of the textile industries is apparent at a glance when their large proportions are taken into view, as illustrated by their position in foreign trade and commerce. I88I. General exports. Exports of textiles. Percentage of textiles to general exports. Great Britain . United States . Germany . France $1,123,000,000 884,000,000 715,000,000 658,000,000 $590,000,000 15,000,000 197,000,000 165,000,000 52i 27i 25 We are not very great exporters of textiles (our share in the combined export trade of $967,000,000 of the four principal commercial nations of the world not being more than $15,000,000.) but as if to compensate for this shortcoming, we make up for the difference as importers of textiles, where we hold the first rank : Great Britain (1881) United States (1881) United States (1884) Germany (188 1) . France (1881) General net imports. 51,900,000,000 642,000,000 667,000,000 712,000,000 950,000,000 Imports of textiles, including apparel, etc. $98,000,000 113,000,000 130,000,000 90,000,000^ 48,000,000 Percentage of textiles to general exports. i7i I2i 5 ^ Including $65,000,000 of yarns. 58 59 Nearly one fifth of all our imports are textile manufactures, and when we deduct from the imports of textiles all yarns, as we do not import any, while they form a very large part of the textile imports of Germany and France, then our imports in textiles nearly equal the imports of these three nations combined : i88r. Great Britain $96,000,000 Germany 35,000,000 France 36,000,000 $167,000,000 The United States in 1884 imported, excluding yarns, $128,- 000,000, which is equal to the combined imports of Great Britain and Germany, or nearly four times the imports of either Germany or France. THE IMPORTANCE OF THE CONVERTING INDUSTRIES. But there is a new and very important adjunct of the dry-goods business connected with this trade now, which from its magnitude deserves prominent mention : that of ready-made clothing for men and women. Speaking of the wholesale branch of this business alone, including shirts, millinery, etc, I doubt that there is any industrial branch in this country which gives employment to so great a number of people. Commercially this trade is not of less importance. It may safely be said that of all heavy woollens manufactured in this country, three fourths at least are converted by the wholesale clothing trade. It is an equally safe estimate to state that of all heavy woollens manufactured for ladies' cloaks, nine tenths are consumed in the manufacturing industry of cloaks. Of shirtings, flannels, and muslins it would be difficult to estimate proportions, but the immense quantities consumed in the ladies' underwear manufacture, in that of men's shirts and kindred manufacturing industries, can safely be measured by hundreds of millions of yards. It is, therefore, fit to speak in this connection of these industries, industries of recent growth only, the children of the sewing-machine, so to speak. The annual sales from first hand amount to fully $300,000,000, all of which is consumed at home. Though it may safely be asserted that this branch of the dry-goods trade is more developed 6o in the United States than in any foreign country, yet our exports are nil, while the exports of foreign nations are largely composed of made-up clothing, etc., hats and caps, shirts, millinery goods, etc. Exports of general dry goods exclus- ive of yarns. Exports of made- up dry goods. ^ Per cent. Great Britain Germany . France $500,000,000 165,000,000 158,000,000 $50,000,000 21,000,000 22,000,000 10 13 14 For manufacturing purposes the sewing-machine is employed perhaps as universally in Germany, France, and England as in America, yet it would not be a rash assertion to maintain that the factory organization in the United States, including the power employed, is far more complete in this branch than elsewhere. Though I am not able to make comparisons from personal obser- vations, yet there are many indications to prove that we use even in steam-power factories far less help for a given amount of work than the French do. For instance, one of the greatest French authorities, M. Leroy-Beaulieu, in his book, " Le Travail des Femmes au XlXme Siecle," has given some very interesting details on this very modern subject. The number of basters and finishers employed in a white-goods factory, preparing the materials for the machine operator, sounds astonishing to an American. He speaks of the co-operation of four persons for one machine as an ordin- ary method of work. The forewoman of the firm of Godillot & Cie., at Paris, a house employing about 1,000 people and using steam as a motive power, told M. Beaulieu of ten to twelve per- sons required for one machine to prepare and to finish the work. He adds, however, that this is not the ordinary proportion, and that every thing depends on the material and the skill of the opera- tor. So far as wages are concerned, they seem liberal compared with the usual rates paid for women's work in Europe. What he says in a general view is attributable to the United States to a greater degree yet : " When we enter into an inquiry on the influ- ' Not counting hosiery or knit goods. 6i ence of the sewing-machine on wages, we may present this as an almost certain fact ; it is indisputable that the machine-operators' pay is higher than the hand-sewers' wages were ever before." After one month's apprenticeship the firm of Godillot pay their operators 3 francs 50 centimes, or 66 cents, a day. The firm of Hayem gives 3 francs, or 57 cents, as the average, but 5 francs to 6 francs, or from 95 cents to $1.14, for their best operators. Basters and finishers get 2 francs to 2 francs 50 centimes, or 38 to 47 cents, or, as the highest attainable rate, 3 francs to 3 francs 25 centimes, or 57 to 6^ cents for 11 hours' work in the factory. These wages seem high compared to the 2 francs, or 38 cents, which M. Beaulieu states as the average of female wages in Paris, ■or even the higher rate of 2 francs 78 centimes, or 52 cents, the average for the same class of workers, according to a report of a parliamentary commission by M. Ducarre, Deputy of the Rhdne Department. Mr. Edwin Chadwick states the weekly wages of an English operator as ranging from $3.84 to |6 (16 to 25 shillings). Daul, "Die Frauenarbeit," gives $2.14 to $3.24 as the weekly earnings of German machine operators. In American white-goods factories finishers get about $5 a week, while machine-operators (entirely piecework) earn from $6 to $8. The baster is a thing of the past. The finest work is made and completed exclusively by machine work, except a few finish- ing stitches by hand sewers. While in French factories an average of four hands to one machine is counted, the proportion in an American factory would hardly be expressed by a reversal of the figures, hardly one finisher or extra hand being required to four machines, and this only in the finest work, the cheaper kinds being done entirely by machine. CHEAPNESS OF AMERICAN WORK. The manufacturers of other countries would be astonished if they could look into our factories and examine how we manage to produce such heaps of work at such trifling expense by the piece. A look at our tool chest might explain the secret to them. The hemmers, the folders, the binders, the corders, the tuckers, the rufflers, the plaiting machines, the puffers, the guages, the edge- 62 folders, etc., etc., are all of American invention. With their aid and a proper division of labor, all the work is accomplished with such rapidity and cheapness that we have no difficulty in finding a market in Canada. Of course this applies only to plain work — that is to say, goods made entirely of American cotton goods. As there is, however, a great deal of embroidery and other fine im- ported material — such as laces, fine muslins, nainsooks, etc. — used in all such work, and as we have to give to the government and to the fetich of protection four yards of these for every ten yards used, of course this whole trade falls to the ground. The subdivision of labor in this branch of industry, it will be readily understood, is practised to the minutest details. The in- vention of new machinery and improved appliances is about as rapid as the American manufacturer is quick to discard his old machines and make room for the new better thing, if it materially cheapens the product. The Pacific Tucking Company own a machine arrangement by which they can do tucking at a far lower rate than manufacturers can do it in their own steam-power fac- tories. The consequence is that every manufacturer sends his material to the company's factory, to have his tucking done there at the very small price of twenty-five cents for a hundred yards, including cotton for sewing and manufacturer's profit. Of course the efficiency of an operator counts for a great deal. The highest earnings at the same rates by the piece are made by those who turn out the best and neatest work. Their work needs no mending or overhauling. They are the most profitable to the employer, and no manufacturer who understands his business would not rather have fifty operators who earn $io than loo op- erators who earn $5 a week. Nor would he grudge them their earnings, because they are the cheapest to him in the end, as is very apparent : 1. From the saving of machinery and space. 2. From the saving in expense of superintendence and examina- tion, and, 3. From the better work, assuring a higher selling price for the product. The difficulty is not so much in the insufficient earnings to afford a decent living to our working classes, as in the short time and 63 lack of employment. The half-time, the weeks without work which follow a few months of extreme activity in each season, are equally dreaded by the employers and employed. Larger markets would be a great relief to both. They would add so many additional weeks in the year's earnings, without in the least neces- sitating any deduction of the operators' pay by the week or by the piece. The question may be raised whether our foreign competitors may not possess the same means and labor-saving tools. To this there is a twofold answer : First, it does not appear that when machinery is used, it is made to yield the same results ; and, sec- ondly, many of our most advantageous appliances and machines are entirely unknown to them, as evidenced by the imported fabrics of foreign manufacture. An American manufacturer of knit shirts and drawers has lately returned from a European trip. He found no difficulty in making a market for his goods in London. Of course this only applies to cotton goods, or goods with a very slight admixture of a cheap wool ; the higher wool grades would be excluded by virtue of the wool tax. He found by comparison that one of his operators on a cylindrical knitting machine turns out about as much work as four machines in Chemnitz, Saxony. " Of course," he said, " I can afford to pay my operators a dollar against the twenty to thirty cents a girl gets in Chemnitz." The improvements we are making in every kind of machinery would be a very interesting topic, but would lead me to occupy more space than I intend giving to this subject at present, but explains fully how our operators can make comparatively high earnings coupled with low labor cost. I will describe one machine of American invention to illustrate this fully. Ladies' cloaks of plush, velvet, damassee, etc., lined with quilted satin, have been very fashionable for the last few years. I have examined a great many imported garments of this kind, mostly of Berlin manufacture. I have examined the linings and found them all quilted with the sewing-machine of a single needle. We, on the contrary, use quiltmg machines, driven by steam-power, which are able to quilt the material, of from eighteen to thirty-six inches in width, right through. The machine has 64 seventy-two needles, which all operate at the same time, and can do the work in diamond, zigzag, wavy line, or escallop patterns. In a yard of thirty-six-inch quilting are about one hundred yards of stitching, counting the exact space over which the stitches run. So far as the direct labor cost of this work is concerned, it is not more than four fifths of a cent, as one operator can do a thousand yards a week at a salary of eight dollars. Imagine how long it would take a single-needle machine operator in Berlin to turn out a thousand yards of quilting, and how much it would cost even at the low wages of one mark or twenty-four cents a day ; our work, besides greater cheapness, having the merit of much greater regu- larity and beauty. The machine described here does the work on the running length of the cloth. It would not be appliable to the quilting of petticoats, which are cut in gores to form a conical-shaped skirt. Another American invention, not used in Europe either, supplies this want. It is a quilting machine, where as many as thirty needles, simultaneously sewing, are set so that the size of the upper stitch is smaller than the lower stitch, so that the quilting comes out in perfect proportion all the way up to the end of the pattern. In this way a rounding is formed in conformity with the shape of the skirt. Sewing cotton, wadding, etc., included, this work costs from $1 to $3 a dozen according to the depth of the work. In the highest-cost pattern are thirty lines of quilting, equal to sixty lines of straight sewing. As there are thirty yards of straight sewing in a dozen skirts, there are nearly eighteen hundred yards of sewing for less than $2, or ten yards of single sewing for less than one cent. Through the inventive spirit of our people difficulties are over- come which at first sight seem almost insurmountable. Another machine of American invention, of even greater im- portance in the matter of dress manufacture both for men and women, is the button-hole machine. Even this is not known in Europe, if we may judge from the many cheap garments imported from Berlin. If anywhere, it might find employment there in ladies' cloaks and jersey waists, exported in large quantities to America. But all button-holes which I have seen in imported gar- ments are hand-made, and as to that, mostly very poorly made. American-made button-holes are all machine-made and generally 65 very solid and closely worked. The price by the piece is very low. For a good-sized button-hole, including the sewing silk, we pay now forty cents a hundred. A very recent invention is a button-hole machine which automatically marks and cuts the but- ton-hole, and which can do the whole work, including the silk, for twenty cents a hundred button-holes. At this rate it would be a very difficult task for a Berlin hand button-hole maker to compete at one mark, or twenty-four cents, a day with an American but- tonhole maker at $1.25 to $1.50 a day. Of not less importance and ingenuity are machines which sew on buttons or stitch eye- lets, etc. But this might be followed ad infinitum^ were it my object to write a history of labor instead of pointing out the difference in the methods and the relative productiveness of labor in competing nations. It seems to me that I have sufficiently demonstrated the point, that ouv labor cost is relatively cheaper, our productiveness greater, than \hat of other countries, and that price differences against us ar*' not in the labor cost, but in that of the material. CHAPTER IX. IRON AND STEEL. No review of the industries of our country would be com- plete without an inquiry into our position in the world of iron and steel. Here more than anywhere else the productive methods and other intermediate opportunities are of far greater importance as price-makers than the accidental amount of wages paid here or there as compensation for a day of labor. And yet if we were to judge of the relative positions from official data, we should have little else to stand upon than the often repeated quotations of the weekly or yearly earnings, the kind of food consumed by the working classes, etc., etc. For any thing directly relating to the composition of prices of the product of labor, we should be not wiser than before examining the contents of the blue books. Fortunately, however, there is a great deal of outside information on this great question of the price regulator of iron, by far the most valuable of all metals, especially so in the cruder forms of iron and of steel. So far as the metal is concerned, in its last stage of finish and usefulness to man little need be said. It is sufficient that we have conquered the world's markets for our clocks, our sewing-ma- chines, our agricultural machines, and motors of all kinds, loco- motives, engines, hardware, tools, etc., etc. On the materials which we consume in the construction of these articles we have to pay duties, if they are imported, ranging from 45 to 75 per cent. The materials of American production even now under the great depression in the iron and steel industries, are 25 to 33 per cent, higher than in England or Germany. We pay our help twice and three times the weekly and, when fully employed, yearly wages paid in Germany, and still we invade their own country of cheap labor. The further our manufactures are re- moved from the crude material and fabric, the more labor is put into the work, the easier is the contest and victory for us. How we do it is too well known to an American reader to require 66 67 long explanation. We build machines to do the work which in cheap-labor countries is mostly done by hand or with primitive tools, or with tools and machines slowly progressing to a higher stage. We construct special machines for each part of a new ma- chine, or a tool, or a fire-arm, as soon as we find out that there may be demand enough to promise a return of, and a profit on, the outlay. It can never more be a question of how we can control the home market. This could not be wrenched from us any more than our home market in wheat by German or British wheat. The question is how to extend our foreign market, how to give increased employment to our machine-shops and foundries. No reduction of wages would be required, as we are now able to compete with the world under the great oppression of higher iron and steel prices. What we need is simply a reduction in the prices of crude iron to the basis of foreign iron prices, as nearly as can be expected from our position as producers of pig-iron, on which point I shall treat in another chapter. These higher prices of the crude and raw material are now matters of much graver importance than at the time when we had not suffi- ciently advanced in manufacturing industries to supply our own wants. Then it was simply a question with us whether we should find it good economy to tax Peter to pay Paul. But now, when our productive capacity has outgrown our own markets, when we produce in nine months what we can barely consume in a year, then we can safely say that any measure increasing the cost of ma- terials beyond their normal price is taxing Peter and robbing Paul. When we have arrived at such a stage of our history, then such a tax system ceases to be "protection," and begins to be a direct tax upon labor and capital — upon labor and the laborer's earnings, pure and simple. HOW OUR PRICES COMPARE WITH FOREIGN PRICES. That the tax on the cruder forms of iron is a burden upon our industries, will be contested by few. Even the very pets of pro- tection, the Bessemer-steel producers, will admit it, not volun- tarily to be sure, but when confronted by figures. It would be too inconsistent to admit now that they could do without protec- tive tariffs, when two years ago they grew frantic and saw destruc- 6S tion and ruin in the work of Congress reducing the duty from $28 to $17. But what is the condition to-day ? The British price of Bessemer-steel rails is ^4 15^'., or $22.75, ^^^^ on board. The American price on board cars at the mill has been as low as $26, a difference of from $3 to $4 a ton. Sure, it would cost this much alone in freight and commission to land a ton of English rails and lay them down on the wharf in New York, even under most depressed freight rates, if there were not a cent of duty to be paid. But in slavish subser- viency to the fetich of protection, the owner of the steel-works insists on the continuation of the present system of tariff taxation, and he willingly submits to the differences against himself as com- pared to the charges of the foreign producers, as will be seen from this balance-sheet : For the production of a ton of Bessemer steel it takes about ij- tons of iron, according to our Census report. This includes Spiegel-eisen, which has to be imported, and pays a duty of $6.72 a ton. But as not more than about ^^ of Spiegel- iron is used, we will call all the iron pig-iron. Now the present price of Scotch pig-iron is £2 2s., or $10.50, a ton, while the cheapest grade of American iron could not be brought to the Bes- semer converter for less than $16 a ton. At ij tons at $5.50, or i^ tons, according to Mr. J. Lowthian Bell in Iron and Steely there would be a charge of $6.60 against the American manufac- turer for iron and 50 cents for his fuel, if the works are well situ- ated, or in all $7.10, in favor of the foreign works. Were our raw iron as cheap as it is to the foreign steel-maker, we could certainly produce Bessemer steel at $20 a ton, and un- dersell Great Britain or Germany by three to four dollars, and be just as well off as under present conditions, when we have to bear an extra charge of $7.10 on our materials. Under this condition of affairs, as illustrated by the hard, irre- pressible facts of indisputable prices, it would be a waste of time and effort to discuss with our protectionists their stock argument of the higher rate of wages. True, the rate of wages is higher, the earnings are higher, but the product is cheaper than anywhere in the world, if the higher cost of the material is eliminated from the computation of prices. This is conclusively proven by the above, and needs no further comment. 69 Ably supported by our protectionists, who insist, as a ground- work of national prosperity, upon the necessity of an even taxing all around, and thus prevent us from sending our steel rails to South and North American countries, the English and Continental steel-makers have entered into an agreement not to sell their rails ■ below a certain price. They were compelled to this by the ruin- ous competition which had forced the price down to ^4 ^s., a figure slightly above the one at which we are selling rails now in protected America (the material being calculated on the basis of the foreign material cost). The London Economist, in its trade review of 1884, says on this topic : " Under the influence of severe competition the price of steel rails was forced to about ^^4 per ton (^4 55. being the lowest reported quotation) in the month of January, and immedi- ately thereafter an arrangement was come to among the principal makers of this country and the Continent by which the price was advanced from ;^4 15^. to ;^5 5^., with an understanding that the orders received were to be apportioned among the different makers. So far this arrangement appears to have worked satis- factorily, although the volume of business has been small, and it is no secret that some large buyers are holding back in the hope that this combination may be broken through, and it is certain the advance in price must have tended to restrict business." We might as well have our share in this parcelling out of the trade of the world in steel rails, or, by a sort of Battle of Dorking, not dreamed of when the book of that name was written, force in open competition the trade of the Continent. Our preventive tariff, however, insists that we shall not send our steel abroad when half our steel-works are idle, and when, without any tariff, not a ton of rails could be landed here even if the price of foreign rails were £,4, or $3 to $5 less than the present European combination price. THE INROADS WHICH STEEL IS MAKING IN THE PUDDLE-IRON INDUSTRY. The changes which are constantly going on in the world of iron and steel are of a nature which would hardly permit using figures of prices and of methods of two or three years ago for arguments 70 or conclusions of to-day. An invention, an improvement, thought out in the quiet study of the scientist, is apt to throw out of work and earnings thousands of helpless and industrious workers, to confiscate or make worthless millions and tens of millions of capital, and bankrupt and wreck a life-time of anxious, intelligent leadership. Such a change has taken place and is taking place in the iron trade. The rapidity with which improvement follows im- provement in the process of manufacturing steel by the Bessemer, open hearth, and other processes, almost defies recording. The iron puddler is especially suffering from this inroad, and when we examine the rapid advance in the production of steel, coupled with a great decline in prices, we can well imagine that great dis- placement must run parallel with this extension, and that a decline in the iron industry cannot be attributed to foreign competition, but must be sought in the inroads of science and thought upon the domain of action and matter. Now, in this realm, no country can wrest the laurel from America. If once placed on an even foot- ing with her competitors, she will be the arbiter of the world's markets. TABLE SHOWING THE NUMBER OF TONS OF BESSEMER AND BASIC STEEL PRODUCED BY AMERICA, GREAT BRITAIN, AND GERMANY. Bessemer SteeL Basic Steel, America. Great Britain. Germany. 1884 1 1,538,355 1,300,000 1883 . 1,654,627 1 1,553.380 970,000 1882 . 1,696,450 1,673,000 993,000 I88I . 1,374,000 1,780,000 865,000 1880 . 983,000 1878 . 732,000 1876 . 1 526,000 1874 . 192,000 1872 . 120,000 500,000 New employments, for which puddled iron has been in use formerly, are found daily for steel. "Iron rails have been displaced by those of steel, and the 71 puddling furnaces thus laid idle have found employment in fur- nishing plates for shipbuilders. But, whereas, in 1877 the tonnage of vessels built of steel was 1,118, in t88i it had risen to 71,538. Has the puddler before long to see his occupation in connection with shipbuilding follow the example of the rail trade ? . . . And many other, we may say most other, trades .for which puddled iron is now used, in the course of time will be supplied from the Bessemer converter or from the open-hearth furnaces." (J. Lowthian Bell, in Iron and Steel.) In America the iron nail is beginning to be displaced by the steel nail, which can be made as cheaply as the iron nail. So will a great many other industries, fence-wire making, structural iron, etc., follow suit, and gradually the age of iron will be gliding into an age of steel. The greater durability of steel would alone suffice to make it preferable to iron, when once we have adapted our mills to its production and transformation. There is, how- ever, a decline of consumption to be expected from this greater durability of steel. This, again, will be balanced, after perhaps some transitory suffering, by the more extended use found for steel than heretofore for iron — steel sleepers for railroad building being one of the new uses, for instance. Many others will follow, and finally, I may venture to say, steel will perhaps become a very formidable opponent of our lumbermen, and prove a very benefi- cent factor in the preservation of our forests. A TAX UPON THE MATERIAL IS A TAX UPON WORK AND WAGES. The present low prices of iron and steel prove fully that our manufacturers and workmen need not fear foreign competition, not under severe pressure from equally depressed markets in Europe, had we free trade in all forms of Iron. Our greatest pressure upon profit and wages is sustained from home compe- tition in markets limited to the home demand. I will show the disproportion of tariff charges upon iron prices of to-day, when comparing them to foreign prices, and taking J3 as a sum covering freight and charges under very lowest freight rates of dull markets. The prices are the lowest quotations of the year. 72 Lowest Amer. price of 1885. English price. Ft. Duty. English price in New York. Bessemer steel, ton $26 00 $23 00 $3 00 $17 GO $43 00 Bar iron, medium Staffordshire, /^6 to £6 lo 30 GO 3 00 2G GO^ 53 00 Am.erican, ij^ to if cents a pound . 39 20 Scotch pig-iron . 10 50 2 00 6 72 19 22 American No. 2 . $17 to $18 No. 3 . $16 to $17 Gray Forge iron . $15 00 Now I will also show the differences between American and British iron and steel prices, if the difference in the prices of the material entering into each ton of product is deducted from the cost : V-I><-1 vm •w 1 V- 1 1 I a be (u hflcu vj tc - i^-a a S-c 0^ a ^.2 ased c h over mater erorg t than tonaf ting es. to rt tn c3 (U 1 i satin. 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