lalflta 
 
 itanual 
 
 ®@@©©®@®®©© 
 
 PRICE, 60 CENTS 
 
 COPYRIGHTED, 1921, BY 
 
 H. E. SIES 
 
 POINT LOMA, CALIFORNIA 
 
21 l32 ' ©CU6U260 
 
 
SB*** 
 
 No flower has made such rapid progress and 
 come into universal favor to as great an extent as 
 the dahlia has during the past few years. 
 
 It is not my intention to go into its history or 
 to treat on the different types, but in as clear a 
 manner as possible, to give in detail, for the benefit 
 of the beginner, the HOW to handle his or her 
 dahlias from the planting season to the next. They 
 require, intelligent care and attention, if the best 
 results are to be obtained. 
 
 Preparing the Soil and Fertilizing 
 
 Dahlias will grow in soil that is almost sand to 
 clay or adobe, providing there is a sufficient amount 
 of humus or plant life in the soil for the plants to 
 feed upon. Heavy soils can be greatly improved 
 by adding either sand or lime, or both, and working 
 
 1 
 
them well into the soil with a spading fork as deep 
 as it will go. The object is to get the ground well 
 pulverized, so that the thousands of little fiberous 
 roots can work through, getting the plant food 
 necessary for the plants growth and development. 
 
 Where the soil is good no fertilizer should be 
 used until the plants are beginning to make good 
 growth. 
 
 By not having the soil too rich or fertilized, keeps 
 them from growing all to stalk and foliage. Many 
 visitors to my gardens marvel at how I keep my 
 dahlias from growing so tall. 
 
 There is no special kind of fertilizer that is re- 
 quired to get the best results. Fresh chicken manure 
 worked into the soil, not thrown up against the 
 base of the plants, but scattered evenly over the 
 ground for at least eighteen inches in the soil sur- 
 rounding the plant and worked in. How often have 
 I seen inexperienced persons pile fertilizer on the 
 very tops of small plants, thinking they had fertil- 
 ized them. It does them just as much good as a 
 good dinner would me, just to have the privilege 
 of looking at it. Plant life gets only that part which 
 is soluble and is carried down into the ground to 
 the roots by either the rains or irrigation. Fresh 
 barnyard or stable manure spread on the ground 
 to the depth of a couple of inches, allowing the rains 
 or overhead sprinkling to leach it, carrying the 
 liquid into the ground after which it can be worked 
 into the soil, care being used not to have the manure 
 come into contact with the tubers as it is liable to 
 cause them to have scab. The liquid from fresh 
 chicken, sheep or goat manure is extra good, but 
 must be well diluted with water. To prepare the 
 
liquid manure, get some recepticle suited for the 
 purpose, fill it % full of manure. The other 34 with 
 water; letting it stand for one or two days, before 
 using. Stir it well before using, adding three parts 
 water to one of the liquid. It is advisable to make 
 it up fresh each time as it will lose much of its 
 strength if allowed to stand a few days. There can 
 also be added to each gallon of the prepared liquid 
 at the time of using one tablespoonful of household 
 ammonia. This can be given once a week during 
 the blooming season, one quart to each plant being 
 sufficient. Do not give the liquid manure when the 
 ground is dry but a few hours after a rain or water- 
 ing. 
 
 Bone meal is very good, if the soil is poor, put in 
 two or three handfuls, to each plant, thoroughly stir- 
 ring it into the soil before planting. 
 
 Blood meal is extra good to put color into the 
 bloom and foliage; a small handful stirred into the 
 soil every two or three weeks during the blooming 
 season should be sufficient. 
 
 Chemical fertilizers as a rule are to be avoided. 
 There is no doubt but that the use of Nitrate of 
 Soda will weaken the vitality of the tubers, frequent- 
 ly causing them to decay. 
 
 Owing to the diversified conditions of the various 
 soils, it is impossible to give any specified amount 
 of fertilizer to be used or how often, only close ob- 
 servation and experience will solve this problem, 
 choosing such fertilizers as are obtainable at the 
 least expense, and will produce the most favorable 
 results. 
 
 Here is the method of fertilizing by one of New 
 
Englands most enthusiastic and successful amateurs. 
 He says his land is rich and nothing is used at the 
 time of planting, but when the plants are about one 
 foot high, he gives each plant two or three handfuls 
 of chicken manure from the brooder. In about two 
 weeks after this he works in two or three handfuls 
 of soot from the chimney, which is for color. Then 
 when they commence to bloom, he thoroughly mixes 
 up four parts bone meal and one part potash, to 
 each plant he gives three good handfuls and works 
 it into the ground. He says that if he could get 
 wood ashes, that and the chicken manure would be 
 all that he would use. He has been highly success- 
 ful in producing exhibition blooms. 
 
 Do not destroy your rubbish such as weeds, vege- 
 table tops, leaves, lawn cuttings, even corn stalks 
 and the tops of your dahlias. Break or cut them 
 into short lengths and spade them in between the 
 dahlia rows. This helps to conserve the moisture 
 and enriches the ground. Then the following sea- 
 son, plant the dahlias in the ground that was the 
 space between them this season. 
 
 Dahlias should be planted three feet apart in the 
 row with a space of four feet between the rows. 
 
 Planting 
 
 Plant the tubers almost in a aorizontal position, 
 not vertical or straight up and down as nearly all 
 inexperienced persons do. The end that has the eye 
 or bud on (see illustration on page 6) should be 
 a little higher in the ground. I plant my tubers with 
 a. drop of 20% from the eye to the base end. This 
 
for the most part is the natural position in which 
 they grow, and lessens the liability of digging into 
 them when cultivating the ground if you should 
 happen to get too close. The depth of the soil over 
 the tuber when planted should be four inches from 
 the bud to the top of the ground. 
 
 See that the soil is worked well around the tuber 
 and pressed down with the hands. 
 
 Strong stakes should be driven in the holes before 
 planting in such a way that the bud will be close to 
 the stake. Do so in a uniform manner so that if 
 any of the tubers should fail to come up you will 
 know where to dig down and ascertain the cause 
 without running any risk of injuring the tuber, that 
 is almost sure to occur if you have to dig around in 
 a haphazard way to locate it. 
 
 Here, I am able to procure fence pickets the. shape 
 of lath but much stronger. I use three foot lengths 
 for low growing varieties and four foot ones for tall 
 growing varieties. Dahlias do not require tall stakes, 
 only something to keep them from falling over or 
 breaking off at the base, when the ground has be- 
 come soft from moisture or there are high winds. 
 
 I sharpen one end of the stake and dip that por- 
 tion going into the ground in Creosote which pre- 
 serves the stake and acts as a preventative against 
 fungus growth which may appear and spread to the 
 plants, doing them much injury. If the prevailing 
 winds are from the west, drive your stakes so they 
 will be on the East side of the plant, frequently they 
 become untied or the string fails to hold, and would 
 blow over but the stakes being on the opposite side 
 hold them up. 
 
/ 
 
 The above illustration shows the correct position 
 of the tuber in the ground after it has been planted. 
 
 Line No. 1 represents the surface of the soil and 
 the space between line No. 1 and No. 2 represents 
 the depth of the soil, which should be four inches 
 from where the bud of the tuber shows in line No. 2. 
 
Any strong twine can be used to tie them to the 
 stakes. Strips of new muslin an inch wide are good 
 to use, as they are strong and being soft, do not cut 
 into the plant. 
 
 The ground should be full of moisture when the 
 planting is done, which should be sufficient until 
 the dahlias are growing nicely. 
 
 In sections where they have the winter freezes, 
 planting is done as soon as the soil has warmed up 
 in the Spring-time, which is usually in May. In 
 frostless sections, planting can be done from Febru- 
 ary to July, the extreme early planting being condi- 
 tional upon the soil being of a sandy nature with 
 good drainage. But heavy soil with poor drainage, 
 will rot the tubers if there are heavy rains. 
 
 Where the planting is done in a dry climate after 
 the rains are over, the air contains but little mois- 
 ture and the ground quickly dries out. When this con- 
 dition prevails, there is little or no danger of their 
 decaying from too much moisture, in fact the ground 
 has to be kept quite moist or they will stand still 
 and make no growth at all. It is not unusual to 
 have a dahlia make a few inches growth and stop. 
 This is either due to the tuber being in a state of 
 decay or not receiving sufficient moisture to cause 
 it to put out any root growth. If the. tuber is de- 
 caying and is not too far gone, cut off the decayed 
 portion, keep the tuber out of the ground a day or 
 so to let the cut end dry off a little and sear over, 
 which will lessen the liability of its continuing to 
 decay. 
 
 If the tuber is sound, cut off what growth it 
 has made to within y 2 inch of the tuber, soak in 
 
water for two days, then replant and keep the 
 ground very moist. 
 
 This treatment has not failed me in a single in- 
 stance. 
 
 One of my patrons had one make a growth of 
 about eight inches, then stop. At the end of six 
 weeks from the time of planting, he took it up and 
 returned it to me. I treated it in the manner de- 
 scribed and it made one of the finest plants I had 
 that season and produced four fine tubers beside. 
 I had several last season that failed to start any 
 growth at all, not even the buds. But everyone of 
 them responded with the water treatment. 
 
 Many tubers are dried out but do not show it on 
 account of being so fiberous, that they shrivel very 
 little if any at all. 
 
 During the growing season, to the time they com- 
 mence to bloom, the soil must be kept stirred up or 
 cultivated to a depth of at least four inches but not 
 so deep close up to the plant or you will ruin the 
 tuber. 
 
 You can be faithful in the use of water and fer- 
 tilizer, but unless the top soil is kept loose, your 
 dahlias will be but little short of failures. As soon 
 after each rain or watering that the soil will work 
 up in a mealy condition, not sticky, stir it up. After 
 they commence to bloom do not cultivate more than 
 two inches deep as the ground is packed full of little 
 fiberous roots that are gathering up the moisture 
 and plant food to produce the bloom and keep the 
 plant growing. 
 
 These are the little workers that must be kept 
 
 8 
 
supplied or other wise, the plant can not keep grow- 
 ing and blooming. When the blooms begin to get 
 small, it is due to the fact that they are not getting 
 enough water or fertilizer, or both are lacking. 
 There are those who discontinue cultivating when 
 the blooming season starts, mulching with coarse 
 manure or something of that nature. Do not let 
 the mulching come in contact with the base of the 
 plants as the moisture is liable to bring on an attack 
 of root Aphis, causing the plants to frequently rot 
 off. 
 
 In a warm, dry climate, extra precautions are 
 needed to see that the dahlias do not suffer for the 
 want of sufficient moisture, both overhead and in 
 the ground. 
 
 Where the soil is sandy and loamy, does not pack 
 down and dry out hard, overhead watering will do, 
 this has reference to those sprinklers that revolve, 
 throwing the water in large circles like a gentle rain. 
 It requires several hours for the ground to become 
 thoroughly saturated. The water will not harm the 
 bloom with the exception of some of the white 
 varieties. If the ground is hard, some irrigating 
 may have to be done in addition. 
 
 If the plants are in rows dig a small furrow on 
 each side of the plants, about twelve inches from 
 them and let the water run slowly in the furrows un- 
 til the ground is well soaked. As a rule the ground 
 on the second day after watering is in good condi- 
 tion for cultivating. The soil that I have packs 
 down and I am writing this from personal experi- 
 ence. Last season I tried out one of those crescent 
 lawn sprinklers; they are about ten inches in dia- 
 meter and screw on to the end of the hose, laying 
 
flat on the ground. It suits me better than any other 
 
 way that I know about, only that it throws the 
 
 water a little too fast for the ground to take up 
 readily. 
 
 It occurred to me to have some of the small holes 
 in the sprinkler stopped up, shall try it this season, 
 feeling sure that the defect will be eliminated. 
 
 Overhead sprinkling in a warm dry climate is a 
 positive necessity to overcome and eliminate dry 
 weather pests, such as Aphis, Thrips and Red Spider, 
 that if left unchecked will ruin the plants. I use a 
 sprinkler on the end of 1113'' hose that is of copper 
 or brass about four inches in diameter, the shape 
 is similar to those on watering cans, and as soon as 
 the plants get to growing nicely, they get a nice 
 little sprinkling every other day in the evening. Just 
 enough to thoroughly wet the plants and moisten 
 the surface of the ground a little. This is in addi- 
 tion to the regular waterings. 
 
 As to how often to give regular waterings, the 
 nature of your soil, climatic conditions and the size 
 of the plants will govern, for the larger the plant 
 the more moisture it draws from the ground. It 
 may be necessary to water every five days, it may be 
 two weeks or more. Whenever you see the petals 
 of the bloom wilting or the soft stems with buds 
 on drooping or hanging down, water is wanted 
 right away. On hot sultry days the foliage may 
 wilt a little, which does not signify they are in need 
 of moisture. 
 
 In procuring dahlias from another section of the 
 country, 1 try as much as possible to get two of 
 each variety, as one of them may for some reason 
 
 10 
 
not do well while the other one will come to per- 
 fection. It is no uncommon occurrence for dahlias 
 going from one part of the country to another to 
 make a very poor showing the first season, but 
 make good the second. 
 
 Never discard a new variety until you try it out 
 the second time. It frequently occurs that a good 
 old stand by that has been a success for several con- 
 tinuous seasons, will be a failure this season and 
 come back alright next season. 
 
 As the season advances and the days begin to 
 shorten and the nights are getting cool, avoid water- 
 ing or wetting the foliage after the noon hour, keep- 
 ing them well trimmed out so the air can circulate 
 freely through them, as they are liable to mildew. 
 If mildew makes its appearance, which shows on 
 the foliage at first in little white spots and will quick- 
 ly cover the entire surface, destroying the foliage if 
 not checked, dust the plants with Sulphur in the 
 morning while they are wet with dew, which will 
 cause the sulphur to adhere to the foliage. In dust- 
 ing it on, I use a flour sieve. A low grade of Sul- 
 phur can be procured of almost any dealer in com- 
 mercial fertilizer and is inexpensive. 
 
 Insect Pests and Diseases, 
 
 Dahlias have their insect enemies, the same as 
 other plants, but fortunately are almost free from 
 disease. 
 
 Insects that infect the soil can be done away with 
 in the spring time before planting. After the soil 
 
 11 
 
has been prepared, is loamy and moist take a crow 
 bar or sharpened stake and drive into the ground 
 to the depth of twelve inches, withdraw the stake 
 without letting the dirt fall back into the hole and 
 pour a tablespoonful of Carbon Bi-Sulphide into the 
 hole and immediately close it up, continue in this 
 manner until the entire ground to be planted has 
 been gone over, spacing the holes twenty inches 
 apart, this forms a gas that destroys all insect 
 and plant life. Do not get closer to plants 
 or shrubs than 2 or 2 l / 2 feet. The gases will 
 evaporate in a few hours and seems in addition 
 to destroying the insects to have benefited the 
 soil. Then go ahead with your planting. When 
 early planting is done and the dahlias have a good 
 growth before the warm, dry weather comes, it is 
 seldom that the Aphis, Thrips or Red Spider have 
 much of a chance at them, but the little overhead 
 sprinklings of evenings should be done just the 
 same during the hot, dry weather. Aphis, Thrips and 
 Red Spider the last two named are classed as mites. 
 Thrips have long white bodies. The Red Spiders 
 look like little red specks and can be seen in motion 
 as a rule on the under side of the leaves. Plants 
 only a few inches out of the ground will become 
 infested with them, working down into the crowns 
 of the plants just as fast as the little leaves loosen 
 up the least bit. The foliage comes out stunted and 
 all wrinkled. White and light colored dahlias being 
 more subject to their attacks. 
 
 To eradicate them, take the garden hose with the 
 sprinkler on, with the top of the plant in one hand, 
 let the water play in the center of the plant with 
 as much force as can be done without bruising or 
 injuring the plant, let the hose play on the underside 
 of the leaves, let the washing be complete. Do this 
 
 12 
 
every evening for several days and it will rid them 
 of the pests. 
 
 Cut worms and other insect pests often attack 
 the plant as soon as it makes its apperance. I have 
 found nothing better than dusting slacked lime on 
 the plant. Nothing touches them and it is harmless 
 to the plants. This can be applied to other plants 
 as well as dahlias. 
 
 Where overhead sprinkling is done, it is best to 
 apply Arsenate of Lead for the extermination of all 
 leaf eating insects, and can be procured at any seed 
 store with full directions as to its use. It adheres 
 to the foliage even though it rains. 
 
 Ants are among our worst pests in this locality, 
 or section. They not only destroy the foliage but 
 eat holes into the base of the plants and work down 
 into the ground. 
 
 I have tried out a great many remedies but the 
 one that has proven the most effective with me, is 
 to get some beef, boil until well done, run it through 
 a meat grinder, making it very fine. Scatter some 
 of it around where the ants are, if possible locate 
 the ant hills and place some there. This acts as a 
 decoy and by the next day it is all cleaned up and 
 they are thoroughly excited for more. This time 
 add a little Paris Green and distribute as before. 
 It is only a few hours until there is not an ant to 
 be seen. 
 
 In this section, another pest that usually shows 
 up about June is the Rose Beetle. They are brown 
 in color, have no wings, are about y 2 inch in length, 
 with a raised or oval back. Their presence is recog- 
 
 13 
 
nized by the leaves or plants being eaten out in little 
 round circles. They secrete themselves as a rule 
 during the day on the under side or at the base of 
 the leaves. 
 
 Dust the foliage lightly with equal parts of lime 
 and Paris Green, this will make a clean sweep of 
 them. 
 
 For Aphis on plants, a nicotine solution known as 
 Black Leaf 40 is extra good, also procured at the 
 seed stores. In certain sections, the Gophers are 
 to be contended with. I have the best success with 
 the traps, observe where they are working, dig back 
 into the main passageway, set the traps opposite of 
 each other in the main run, this insures getting them 
 either coming or going. Stuff sacking or some 
 similar material into the entrance to darken it and 
 its only a couple of hours until I have the intruder. 
 These traps are procured at the seed stores, where 
 full information in regard to them will be given. 
 
 Dahlias like potatoes are subject to scab. A good 
 preventative is to use one fluid ounce of Formal- 
 dehyde to each two gallons of water, immerse the 
 tubers for two hours, then after drying off a little, 
 plant them. 
 
 Qettinq "Large Blooms 
 
 This is done by removing all the side buds from 
 the stem, leaving the center one, and if it is a variety 
 that grows short stems and many of them, then 
 remove a portion of the stems. 
 
 Varieties that are large producers of bloom and 
 
 14 
 
have short stalks and stems, I remove one-half of 
 the side shoots from the main stalks doing it as the 
 plant is growing. They appear in pairs on each 
 side of the stalks. I break one off just as soon as 
 it is far enough out for me to get hold of it, and 
 so on up the plant as they appear, working around 
 the plant in a circle, which keeps the plant from 
 being one sided. I do not allow more than two 
 stalks to a plant to grow. Keep the old and faded 
 bloom cut off. 
 
 The fewer buds to a plant the larger the blooms 
 and vice versa. 
 
 Large blooms are the poorest keepers as a rul^- 
 after being cut. The smaller the blooms, the better 
 they keep. 
 
 The best time to cut the blooms is in the cool of 
 the morning or evening. It is best to remove all 
 the foliage, then put the tip ends of the stems (not 
 over an inch) in boiling water for about a minute. 
 A shallow dish is best as the steam from the water 
 is not so liable to come up through the blooms and 
 spoil them, then into a deep vase filled with cold 
 water, the nearer the water comes up to the bloom 
 the better. Shallow vases will not do. If the weather 
 is hot and sultry, they will last about two days. If 
 cool they will last for several days. If blooms are 
 gathered within a day after the plants have been 
 watered, they will last but a few hours, if at all. 
 
 15 
 
Proper Care of Dahlias After the 
 "Blooming Season 
 
 With the exception of cutting up the clumps in 
 the spring time for replanting, here is where the 
 uninformed have their greatest losses and failures. 
 
 In sections where the frost kills the tops, they 
 should be cut off about ten inches from the ground, 
 and taken up, which should be done with great care 
 in order not to break the necks of the tubers from 
 the main stalks. At the time they are dug up the 
 ground should be very moist but not sticky. A 
 spading fork is best to use in raising them. Push 
 the fork into the ground as far as it will go, not less 
 than twelve or fourteen inches from the plant, then 
 gently pry up a little ways, this will loosen or sever 
 the roots from the tubers that may run off into the 
 ground for quite a ways. 
 
 Work clear around the plant in this manner. 
 Then get your fork deep down under the clump. 
 By the way remove all the dirt you can from the 
 top of the clump, for the weight of this dirt fre- 
 quently breaks the tubers loose from those varieties, 
 which are usually the Cactus and Hybrid Cactus 
 types, the necks being long and slender. Take hold 
 of the stump with one hand to steady it and push 
 down on the handle of the fork with the other hand, 
 raising the clump out of the ground. 
 
 If all the dirt should fall away from the tubers 
 carefully place the clump on the ground. It fre- 
 quently occurs that to let the clump sit flat on the 
 ground will cause the neck of some of the tubers 
 
 16 
 
to break. By placing something on the under side 
 for it to rest upon prevents them from breaking. 
 
 Under no circumstances shake the dirt out. It 
 is better that it should adhere to the tubers if it 
 will; it helps to keep the tubers from drying out 
 during the winter and acts as a brace to them in the 
 handling. Let them dry off for a day or so, then 
 store away in the basement for the winter with a 
 covering of dry dirt. 
 
 In sections that are frostless and have no freezing 
 weather, the treatment is altogether different. Let 
 the tops die down as much as possible if you can 
 before taking them up. Cut them back to within 
 ten inches of the ground. As the stalks are hollow, 
 this leaves an opening into which the water from 
 the winter rains can readily run down to the base of 
 the inside of the stalk, and unless it can very readily 
 seep out will rot the base of the stalk where the 
 buds are located, causing much damage and often 
 times the loss of the entire clump. Tie a thick piece 
 of paper or anything that will turn the water, over 
 these openings. 
 
 Take them up in the manner already described, 
 leaving all the dirt on that will adhere to them, 
 select a shady place under a tree, shrub or anywhere 
 out of the way, just so it is cool and shady. Care- 
 fully place them in such a manner that you can work 
 fine dirt in and all around them, no farther up 
 around the stalks than to cover the tubers nicely. 
 The winter rains will not do any harm but will be 
 a benefit. It is highly important that there be no 
 vacant places left in and around the clumps as it 
 makes a harboring place for injurious insects and 
 may cause fungus growth to appear on the tubers 
 
 17 
 
that is highly injurious. Where the soil is sandy 
 and has good drainage, it is not necessary to take 
 them up until spring for replanting, but where the 
 soil is heavy and has poor drainage, it is imperative 
 that they be taken up or the winter rains will cause 
 them to decay. If those that are left in the ground 
 should start to grow during the winter months, then 
 it will be necessary to take them up. 
 
 Diuiding the Tubers for Replanting 
 
 I would first call attention to the illustration of 
 the dahlia tubers on page 19. One has what looks 
 like a knot on the end of it with a small projection 
 on it. This is the part that was cut from the base 
 of the old stalk and the little projection is the bud 
 pushing out. The other tuber has no such knob on 
 the end, but was broken loose from the clump, and 
 having no eyes or buds in the tuber makes it worth- 
 less. It will start a few roots but no other growth. 
 If it had a piece of the base of the stalk to it and 
 should happen to get the neck broken, so that the 
 sap can not flow from the tuber to the bud, it will 
 not grow. 
 
 Before dividing your dahlia clumps, it is best to 
 wait until the buds begin to push out so that you 
 can see where to cut through. There may be two 
 tubers that have grown close together and the bud 
 shows up between them. In that case cut out the 
 two tubers together, leaving them attached. It is 
 not necessary to divide down to only one tuber. 
 Two tubers attached, with one or two good buds 
 makes no difference. When ready to make the di- 
 visions for those clumps that retained the soil take 
 
 18 
 
19 
 
a hammer, and holding the clump firmly in one hand 
 hold it so that it just clears the ground the least bit. 
 But if the tubers are long and slender, do not raise 
 clear off the ground, as their own weight is the cause 
 of many of them breaking their necks. 
 
 Tap the base of the stalk with the hammer far 
 enough above the buds not to bruise or injure them. 
 It will be surprising to see the dirt let loose and 
 tumble out from among the tubers, doing no harm 
 if the tapping is not done too hard. Wash all the 
 clumps off nice and clean with the garden hose, care 
 being taken not to let the water play with too much 
 force, as it would knock off the buds or the skin 
 from the tubers. 
 
 After they have dried off nicely, proceed as follows. 
 Have a bench, old table, anything on which one 
 can work. For those clumps that can not be al- 
 lowed to sit down flat, I have a small block about 
 four inches square and two inches thick. Then 
 place a piece of old sacking of three or four ply 
 over the block, this prevents the block from bruis- 
 ing or skinning the tubers. Place the clump on the 
 block and proceed to divide it. 
 
 There is nothing better than a key hole saw, where 
 a saw is necessary, when the stalk is too hard and 
 fiberous for a knife to cut in. The blade is very 
 narrow, which enables one to get in between the 
 tubers. This saw can be procured at almost any 
 hardware store. It is necessary to have it refiled 
 into a cut off saw. Saw off the old stalk as close 
 as you can to the tubers, not below any buds. If 
 the wood is too hard to cut with a knife, then it will 
 be necessary to saw down through the center of the 
 stalk, keeping clear of the buds. If there are a 
 
 20 
 
large number of tubers attached to the stalk, you 
 are going to lose some of them for there will not 
 be enough of the stalk to go round. There may be 
 as many as a dozen tubers on the entire stalk, and 
 the stalk have only two or three buds, that are cut 
 out of the clump with the tubers that are the nearest 
 to them, the remaining tubers having to be discarded. 
 Then again it will be right the reverse. After sawing 
 through, then proceed with the knife, which should 
 be kept sharp and have a thin blade, something a 
 little better than a potato knife, though a potato 
 knife does nicely. 
 
 In using either the saw or the knife, never cut in 
 and attempt to pry them apart as this will bruise 
 them and cause decay. 
 
 If you are not prepared to do your planting at 
 the time you make the division pack the tubers 
 away in dry dirt, sand or shavings storing in a cool 
 place. It is important that this be done, for after 
 the tubers have been cut, they will dry out very 
 quickly if left in the open air. 
 
 I get quite a number of small tubers from two 
 to three inches long that I put into pots. Give them 
 one good watering, putting them to one side, giving 
 no more water until I am ready for them to grow. 
 When they are about eight inches high, I plant out 
 in the open. They make just as good plants and 
 tubers as the large ones do. 
 
 Very large tubers will make but few if any new 
 tubers" at all. It is best to cut the lower portion off 
 from a third to one-half, depending on the size of 
 the tuber. 
 
 21 
 
The key hole saw, used in dividing the tubers 
 makes one of the best little general purpose tools 
 I ever had, especially in the pruning of trees, shrubs 
 and vines, the narrow blade enabling one to work 
 anywhere. 
 
 When dahlias are put away for the winter, extreme 
 care should be taken to guard them from rats and 
 mice. Also if stored in a basement, do not put them 
 near the furnace. 
 
 In sections where the rains and summer showers 
 come, it will prove injurious to do any irrigating, as 
 it causes the plants to make roots near the surface 
 and when those hot August days come, the roots 
 will burn up. 
 
 Again the tops may become diseased and make a 
 sickly growth. Do not loose any time looking at 
 them and wondering what to do, but cut them off 
 close to the ground and the chances are they will 
 come along all right. 
 
 Following is the Standard or scale of points used 
 by the Dahlia Society of California at their Trial 
 Gardens at San Rafael, California. 
 
 Color 25 
 
 Stem 25 
 
 Formation 20 
 
 Size 15 
 
 Productiveness 15 
 
 Total 100 
 
 22 
 
Following is the scale of points used by the Amer- 
 ican Dahlia Society in making awards at the Trial 
 Garden at the Connecticut Agricultural College, 
 Storrs, Conn. 
 
 Exhibition Varieties 
 
 Color 20 
 
 Stem and Foliage 25 
 
 Substance 15 
 
 Form 20 
 
 Size 20 
 
 100 
 
 Commerical Varieties 
 
 Color 20 
 
 Stem and Foliage 25 
 
 Substance 25 
 
 Form 10 
 
 Floriferousness 10 
 
 Size 10 
 
 100 
 
 23 
 
"Gardening 
 
 in Southern 
 
 California 
 
 Written especially for the home flower and 
 vegetable garden. How to prepare the soil, 
 fertilize, plant and irrigate. Treats especially 
 of rose and dahlia culture, these two items alone 
 being worth the price of the booklet. Has a 
 planting calendar for every month in the year 
 for flowers and vegetables. 
 
 Price, 50 cents. 
 
 Written and published by 
 
 H. E. SIES, 
 
 Point Loma, California 
 
 24 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 002 337 911 9