Class _fe£_, EARLY ROADS ¥(.6 THE DWELLERS THEREON IN THE NORTHERN PORTION OF WORCESTER. A PAPKR PREPARED BY HENRY M. WHEELER, Esq., II FOR The Worcester Society of Antiquity From Volume XX. Worcester 1904. 25 JI 1907 EARLY ROADS IN WORCESTER, In the preparation of an article on the early roads and the dwellers thereon in the northern portion of the town I soon found myself in the predicament of the man, who, at an advanced age, undertook to compile the genealogy of his family; he said, "I think I have got hold of a bigger job than I can manage." A writer has said, "An idea arrives without effort: a form can only be wrought out by patient labor." When the Pilgrims came hither they found a land peopled by inhabitants called Indians, who , were hospitably dis- posed towards the strangers. Had Our fathers shown the Christ-like spirit which they professed to hold, as the actuating principle of their lives, or had the temper of John Robinson prevailed over that of Myles Standish, the early history of this land would have been far different from what it is. But the discussion of this question would be foreign to the purpose of this paper. The people found here have been called aborigines usually, but in the light of recent investigation and research that term seems to be of doubtful significance. It is out of place to more than allude to the inquiry here. These peoples, by whatever name designated, dwelt in small communities located near the sea shore or on the bank of some pond or lake or stream, or in some rich valley, from which their supplies of fish and maize could be obtained.- Communication between these settlements was made on foot by well-worn paths which came to be known as Indian trails. The more numerous the communities the greater the number of trails, and the more distinctly marked. The paths were about one foot in width and from one inch to six or more inches in depth according to the nature of the soil and their more or less frequent use. They were tortuous in their course, crossing and interlacing each other in all directions, yet each having its own marked destination. A good illustration of these trails can be seen in a large tract of land, the surface of which is covered with bushes, trees, shrubs and rocks, low and wet places, elevations and depressions, wherein cattle have been pastured for many years. The paths made by the cattle wind about at all angles, and there is not a straight one among them all. The nature of the ground affects the course. Just as the cattle in the pasture go round the rocks, avoid the miry places, wind in and out amongst the trees and bushes to reach water or the salt lick or the best feeding ground, so the Indians traversed the county by avoiding the highest elevations, encircling the swampy places, deflecting their course to find the best fording spots, and wound their way through the otherwise trackless forest to reach their destination. They went in single file. The entire country was covered with a network of these trails. Cer- tain ones became known as great war paths, some of which are identified to-day. They were more numerous in New York state and in the middle west between the Alleghany Mountains and the Mississippi River than in New England. Some of them have become historic; the most prominent being the Nemacolin, so named from a Delaware Indian warrior chieftain. This ran from the Cumberland River to Fort Duquesne. It was by this path that young Washing- ton bore the message from the Governor of Virginia to the French. On the same path he subsequently made the first and only surrender to opposing forces during his life. By this path the fatal expedition of Braddock trod. Later it became and still is one of the great thoroughfares between the east and the west. An interesting account of these old trails may be found in "Historic Highways," by Archer B. Hulbert. As the colonies in the eastern part of the state increased in population, the more adventurous of the people pushed out toward the west, seeking new homes and founding new settlements. Waltham, Weston, Sudbury, Concord, Marlborough, Lancaster, Deerfield, Worcester, Brookfield, Grafton, Oxford, Brimfield and Springfield sprang into existence one after the other. Communication between these places and the older ones became a necessi ty . Traveled ways immediately came into existence, which followed the trails or paths made by the Indians. All travel was either on foot or on horseback, baggage and stores were borne on pack horses; there were no wheeled vehicles. The paths were as primitive as the cattle trails in the pasture. No attempt was made to build a road. Traveling was dangerous at all seasons, especially so in the winter, from wild animals, hostile Indians, falling trees, morasses, swollen waters and deep snows. From these primitive ways the present admirable system of roads has been slowly evolved through years of difficulty and toil. First the trail was widened into the rough cart path, rilled with rocks and stumps and holes, that crossed the streams by fords. Next came the cleared way built on the top of the natural soil, with corduroy through the low places and rough plank bridges over the water courses, veritable sloughs of despond a part of the year. Then followed the plank road, a great improvement, but of short duration. This was succeeded by the turnpike, a scientific development of the axiomatic truth that the shortest distance between two given points is a straight line. The projectors of this system of roads seem to have overlooked two facts, viz.: first, that that truth is applicable only to plane surfaces; second, that the bail of a bucket is no shorter in a perpendicular position than in a horizontal one. The pikes ran straight over the highest hills, through the lowest valleys and across swamps, and were turned aside only by wide and deep ponds. The Roxbury and Worcester turnpike, or the Boston and Worcester, as it is commonly called, built in 180G, is a 6 good illustration of this kind of a road near at hand. The builders of it, undaunted by the long, steep hills, determined to cross Long Pond. Their first attempt was a failure. Actuated by a high resolve, however, they said, "Sink or swim, survive or perish" we will carry this through; though the first structure sank they finally crossed on a floating bridge. Yet our fathers were wise men ; they were willing fre- quently to toil up the steep and rugged mountain side to obtain a sight of the King in his beauty, and felt amply repaid for their struggle by the vision. Would it not be well for us, their children, occasionally to leave the miasms and damps of commercialism and materialism in the valley and toil upwards to the mountain tops, where in a pure atmos- phere we might behold with clear vision the sublime views of a better life, and the true relation of man to man and of man to his maker. Instead of the straight turnpike this aesthetic generation prefers the road of gentle elevation, winding with easy bend through the wooded valleys, along the murmuring brookside or the curving sweep of the ocean's shore. It is not easy for us, borne over smooth Macadam or Telford roads in carriages hung on eliptic springs rolling along with rubber tired wheels behind a fast moving blooded horse, to conceive of the means of locomotion one and two centuries ago. Roads are an index of civilization. The better the roads the greater the advancement in knowledge. In a highly civilized land one expects to find good roads. A recent writer has said, "Among the most searching tests of the state of civilization reached by any country are the character of its roads." Rome, in its Augustan age, constructed military roads which have endured to the present day. As a land approaches its attainment in Christian govern- ment its roads will become highways of peace. The roads of two contiguous towns often mark the high degree of civic pride in the one and the lack of it in the other. The principal and perhaps the oldest path in Massachu- setts was that from the Bay, so called, westward to the Connecticut River and beyond. It was styled the "Old Connecticut Path" from 1G36 till 164G, after which it received the name of the " Bay Path." Starting at Boston it followed the northern bank of the Charles River to Wal- tham, thence through South Framingham, Hopkinton, Westborough, Grafton, Sutton, Charlton, Sturbridge to Brimfield, where other paths joined it, one going to the great falls, now Palmer, another southward to Agawam, now Springfield. It continued to be the only path till L648, when a new one was opened, which left the old path at Weston and went through Lancaster, New Braintree, West Brookfleld and Warren to Brimfield. Later a third path went through Marlborough, Worcester and Brookfleld. This was called sometimes the "Connecticut Path." J. G. Holland, in his interesting story, entitled "The Bay Path," has woven into it with great beauty the tale of the path of true love. The Bay Path has been forced to give way to other and better methods of communication; the other path remains the same as it was when Mary Pynchon and John Holyoke walked together in the old "Bay Path." Some of these paths came to be known as "Post Roads." When a new settlement was started the General Court chose a committee to apportion the territory amongst the settlers, to some of whom grants were made as compensation for services rendered the state, to others as an inducement to join the community; the committee received pay for its services by grants. All the land may not have been divided in the first allotment and subsequent divisions were made as new settlers came forward. Some of those in the first division may not have received the full allowance to which they were entitled, and at subsequent divisions their "rights," as they were called, would be allowed. Some of the allotments and rights were traded for money or other consideration, and it came about thai a few persons became 8 holders of large tracts. Speculation in land increased with the growth of the settlements. In this manner the territory of Quinsigamond was apportioned in four separate divisions. A rough survey of these allotments was made and a record thereof was kept, which is known as the "Proprietors' Records." Various causes combined to confuse these allot- ments so that they frequently overlapped each other and these errors were adjusted subsequently. In addition to the divisions already mentioned there were others for the support of the ministry, called "Ministerial Lots," and for the support of schools, called "School Lots." That part undivided was "Common." Thus, a person might have a lot bounded on the north by A, on the east by B and every other way by common. To avoid the dry detail of fact, imagination and story will be called on to enforce history, in this narration, so that we shall not seem to be traveling over dusty roads, on which a scorching sun pours his fervent rays unrelieved by refreshing shade and cooling stream. We will introduce ourselves to a traveler on horseback just as he is passing Slocum's tavern in Shrewsbury, on the Connecticut road a short distance east of Quinsigamond Pond, on his way from the Bay to Agawam. He informs us that the night was spent at Squire Farrar's tavern, the other side of Shrewsbury, kept by Captain Levi Pease, who he learned was also the proprietor (in connection with Colonel Reuben Sikes of Worcester), of a line of stages plying between Boston and New York. The Captain told him something of his family and said he was descended from Robert and Margaret of Great Braddon, Essex Co., England. His son Robert 2 came to Boston from the port of Ipswich, England, in April, 1634, with his brother John and his oldest son Robert 3 ; his wife Marie came later; Robert, 2 born in 1607, settled at Salem and died there in 1644. His son Robert 3 married in December, 1691, Harriet Warriner and settled at Enfield, Conn. Nathaniel, the son of Robert, 3 was born at Enfield, Conn., in 1694; he married in 1730 Miriam Pease, a relative, and went to Blanford, Conn., where he kept a tavern winch he sold out to his son Levi in 1771. Levi was born at Enfield, Conn., in 1739, and died at Shrewsbury Jan. 28, 1824; his wife was Hannah Sexton. He was a blacksmith. During the Revolution he was bearer of despatches. After the war he began staging between Somers and Hartford, Conn. In company with Reuben Sikes he commenced running stages from the Sign of the Lamb in Boston, Oct. 22, 1783. The first night the stop was made at Martin's in Northborough ; the second at Rice's in Brookficld; the third at Pease's in Somers, Conn.; and the fourth at Hartford. An adver- tisement in the Massachusetts Spy of Nov. 13, 1783, confirms this statement. In 1786 the route was extended from Portsmouth, N. H., to Savannah, Ga. They carried the mails and for a long time Mr. Pease was the only contractor for carrying them in New England. He received the first charter for a turnpike in Massachusetts, going through Palmer and Wilbraham to Springfield. He took most of the stock of the road and lost it all. He kept tavern at Blanford, Conn., from 1771 to 1776. From 1786 to 1789 he kept the New York stage house in Boston. He went to Shrewsbury in 1794 and succeeded Mr. Farrar. He left a good name, and was spoken of as dignified, pleasant, of agreeable manners, with a remarkably majestic appearance. Our traveler also learned from his host the following facts about his partner's family. Reuben was of the sixth generation from Richard Sikes of England, who appeared in Dorchester in 1635; he was a member of the church there in 1639, and was made a freeman in 1642; his wife's name was Phoebe; he removed to Springfield m 1642, and died there in 1675. He was highly esteemed, and he and his sons held important offices in the town. His son Increase was born at Springfield in 1644 and died there March 24, 1712; he married Abigail Fowler. Nathaniel, 10 the son of Increase, was born at Springfield July 7, 1673, and died there May 13, 1727; his wife was Elizabeth Ball. John, the next in the family line, was born at Springfield December 30, 1697, and died there December 25, 1733; his wife was Thankfull Warriner. Reuben, the father of Colonel Sikes, was born at Springfield Sept. 8, 1730, and died at Somers, Conn., December 24, 1804; he married Thankfull Buell; he held the office of judge and was a man of great influence. Col. Reuben, the second of twelve children, was born at Somers, Conn., July 13, 1756, and died at Worcester August 19, 1824. He married (1) in 1778 Mary Kibbe, by whom he had Mary, born in 1779, who married August 20, 1796, Moses Grosvenor of Pomfret, Conn. By this union there was born January 14, 1800, a daughter Mary, who married (1) April 12, 1824, Ed- ward D. Bangs of Worcester, the son of Judge Edward and Hannah (Lynde); he died April 1, 1838, and she married (2) Stephen Salisbury of Worcester, June 2, 1856. Mr. Salisbury was born March 8, 1798, and died August 24, 1884. Reuben married (2) October 3, 1782, Eunice McCoy of Somers, Conn., by whom he had seven children; three of his daughters, who lived to advanced ages, are remembered by persons still living. A son, Henry McCoy, was a mer- chant in Worcester; he married in 1811 Hannah Cobb Smith of Boston; they had a daughter Elizabeth, who married William Pratt, the son of Nymphas and Submit (Howe) (Kingsbury) of Shrewsbury. Mr. Pratt practiced law in "Worcester, being associated for a time with Pliny Merrick. Mr. Pratt had three children, two of whom died in infancy; the third, Clara C, is living, the widow of Charles S. Davis. Mrs. Pratt married (2) Ebenezer Wiswell of Cincinnati, Ohio, and had by him three children, one of whom married Edward T. Sprague and is living at Cin- cinnati, Ohio. Mr. Sikes was a blacksmith and a soldier in the Revolutionary army, where he rose to the rank of Colonel. Mrs. Davis has in her possession a powder-horn 11 marked, " Reuben Sikos his Bora made by him in Roxbury Dec ye 2 nd 1775." He kept tavern at Hartford and Suffield in Connecticut, in Wilbraham in this state; and in May, 1S07, he came to Worcester and kept the Sikes Coffee House till his death, the most popular tavern in the state outside of Boston. Our traveler spoke of the residence of Major-General Artemas Ward, which he passed, and asked if the story of the lack of cordiality between General Ward and General Washington was true. We told him that General Ward's relatives denied the existence of any such feeling. He said it seemed as if there must be some foundation for the statement from the fact that General Washington did not call on his compatriot in arms when he passed his house in 1789, but did stop at Farrar's tavern, a quarter of a mile beyond. An ancient mile-stone stands by the road- side opposite the Ward house, on which is lettered, Boston 33, Springfield 63, Albany 155. By this time we have reached a parting of the ways, in the fork of which a substantial three-cornered stone guide-post is seen; on one side a hand points "To Wor. 4 Ms"; on the other a hand points "To Hoi 7 Ms"; and on the back there is scarcely discernable "From Boston." Over the right hand road, laid out in 1730 and established in August, 1790, the sixth Massachusetts turnpike, extend- ing to Amherst, was relaid in June, 1800. The traveler was told that if he should follow that road he would soon reach Harlow's Mills, where he could bait his horse under the roomy shed. While the animal is eating the miller would tell him of Sewall's brook just crossed, so called from Judge Sewall who formerly owned a large number of acres thereabouts; of the road around the north end of the pond, later overflowed by reason of its sinking; of the crossing at right angles the road leading to Boylston; of the well conducted Jonathan Lovell farm; of the Deacon David Bigelow tavern under the spreading branches of a 12 large elm, where mine host would furnish a mug of his best punch; and of the continuance of the pike in a straight course up over the "Summit" and thence onward through Holden, Rutland and other towns to its termination. Taking the left hand road at the guide-post, the traveler, a short distance north of the present bridge at the fording place of the upper end of the pond, meets the four horse stage-coach of Messrs. Pease and Sikes, driven by the Captain himself, on its way from Hartford to Boston. The coach is filled with passengers, some of whom have been three days on their journey; they hope to reach their destination late in the day. Mounting the steep ascent from the pond the tavern stand of Captain Israel Jennison is soon reached. On the way thither the sweet air from the pines which the traveler inhaled was quite different from the pungent laden odors that offend the nostrils of the passer-by of to-day. While resting and partaking of refreshment a brief history of the Captain and his hostelry will occupy the time. Israel was the son of Peter, a brother of Judge William the grandson of Robert who was in Watertown in 1635. William came to Worcester about 1720 and purchased large tracts of land in the centre of the town; he bore a conspicuous part in the settlement of the place. Israel became an extensive landholder on both sides of the pond. In the allotment of lands William Payne, a blacksmith of Boston, Stephen Minot, Thomas Haggit and others received tracts lying on the north and south sides of the Connecticut road and west of the pond. A considerable part of these lands passed into the hands of Israel by purchase, with some on the east side of the pond also. At his death in 1782 he devised to his son Samuel Jennison a large portion of his es- tate. After Samuel's death his widow Rebekah conveyed the most of it to the inhabitants of Worcester, and it constitutes the present Poor Farm. Prior to his death Israel conveyed to his son Samuel, in 1775, one-half of an acre, the old tavern stand. Samuel's widow sold this in 1818 to the 13 inhabitants of Worcester and it was used for the Poor Farm till 1858, when it was sold to Oran A. Kelley. This was at the corner of the present Lincoln and Boylston streets; the latter was relocated in 1804. Persons passing to-day can hardly believe that this was a busy place, where business was transacted for more than seventy years in tavern and store by Captain Israel, his son Samuel and Nathaniel Curtis, his brother-in-law. Nothing remains to mark the spot except a cellar hole and an ash house of brick, a perfect cube of six feet. The house was a long wooden one facing the easterly corner of the lot. Captain Israel's first wife was Mary Heywood, the daughter of Daniel and Hannah (Ward). His second wife was Mar- guerita (Olivier) Coolidge, the widow of Joseph, a prominent merchant of Boston and ancestor of the eminent financier, T. Jefferson Coolidge. She was the thirteenth child in a family of fifteen children of Anthoine and Marie (Sigourne) of Boston, Huguenots, who came here from France with the Sigournes, Johonnots and others in 1686. Marguerita was born at Annapolis, N. S., November 8, 1726; was married first November 18, 1746, and became the mother of eight children, one of whom, Margaret, married Jacob Sweetser, a man of considerable wealth in Lancaster. Her second marriage was to Captain Israel, December 9, 1775. She was married the third time to Rev. Joseph Wheeler of Worcester May 20, 1784. Last of all the woman died also December 25, 1816, having survived her third husband. Her remains lie in the tomb of her son Joseph Coolidge, in King's Chapel burying-ground in Boston. At the death of Captain Israel sixty-four acres of his estate on the south side of the road were set off to his widow in her right. This claim she and her husband Joseph Wheeler relinquished December 3, 1702. The old Olivier Bible in French, con- taining the family register, written in a clear, bold hand, is in the Boston Atheneum. Before reaching the Jennison tavern one of the old roads 14 of the town, leading to Grafton over the summit of the hill to the east, then called Oak Hill, was passed; the north end of the road was laid out November 25, 1719; a part of it north of Wigwam Hill was called Love Lane; the entire street now bears the name of Plantation. Nearly- opposite the end of this street there stands a pile of palatial buildings half hidden by beautiful shade trees; in their rear are barns comparable in size to those that the rich man mentioned in the Bible would have built had his life been prolonged. The front of these buildings is approached through an archway of maples, flanked with massive stone posts, over the entrance of which one who can discern to read, may see, "Ho! all ye poor, shiftless, lazy, incompetent, incapable! turn ye in hither; sumptuous lodgings are provided for ye by the thrifty, industrious and diligent citizens of the town." Resuming his journey the traveler meets two men on horseback coming away from a farmhouse on his right. They are Captain Lewis Barnard and his son General Ebenezer L., on their way into the country to purchase cattle ; they are extensive traders in live stock in connection with farming. Their father John was the son of Isaac, who removed from Watertown to Grafton, thence to Sutton and afterwards to New Worcester, where he died March 18, 1788. Capt. John was born in Sutton August 11, 1743, and died in Worcester September 17, 1830. He bought, December 4, 1792, of William Jennison two hundred and six acres lying on both sides of the road, that the latter received from his father Captain Israel. John deeded one-half of his farm to his son Lewis, March 4, 1801,. and at his death in September, 1830, the remainder was devised to him. Lewis had three sons, John, Ebenezer L. and Lewis, Jr., who inherited the farm at their father's death in 1853. Thence it passed through numerous conveyances from John and Lewis, Rejoice Newton, Guardian, Frederick J. Barnard and others to Samuel Davis and William R. Hooper, and 15 from them to its presenl owner, Oran A. Kelley, who pur- chased parts of it May 120 and June 3, 1862, some having been sold previously to others. Ebenezer L. married Caroline Sweetser, the daughter of Samuel of Athol, by whom he had five children, Lewis Lovell, Frederick Jones, Edward Lovell, Caroline and Eliza. He built a house on State street, and died of consumption July 9, 1850, soon after moving into it. Of John and Lewis more will be said later. The farmhouse and out buildings are situated on ground sloping upwards from the road, showing every indication of thrift and good management; the house was shaded formerly by two elms of massive size, one of which was destro) r ed by a cyclone several years since; the other remains. Passing on to higher ground there is pointed out to the traveler the site of one of the earliest settlers of the town. Ephraim Curtis came here from Sudbury in 1673. He laid claim to a large tract of land, but was obliged to re- linquish a part of it, and was granted land in another section of the town. His first house was a log hut probably. The second house, built on or near its site, was, like many of that period, two stories in front and had a long roof sloping back to one low story at the rear, with the large central chimney in the upright part. It was a tavern stand and a recent occupant remembered the bar in one of the front rooms. While this second house was undergoing repairs in 1848 it was destroyed by fire. A new house was erected on its site, which was occupied till a few weeks ago by the widow of Tyler P. Curtis. His son William C. carries on the farm, which has never passed out of the possession of the family. Two beautiful elms of great size formerly added to the attractiveness of the place, but one after the other yielded to the vicissitudes of storms and the infirmities of age. A younger tree bids fair to take their place and furnish shade for later generations. Ephraim had for neighbors Hugh and William Gray, William Knight, 16 Daniel Heywood and Thomas Haggit. December 10, 1735, he deeded to "my Dutifull son John 140 acres a part of my farm of 250 acres." Next and contiguous to the Curtis farm we come to that of Ebenezer Wellington, whose house is on the right of the road several hundred feet back from it. Nearly in front of it and close to the road is the small house of Jascn Duncan, a relative, one of the Scotch Presbyterians who attempted a settlement in the town in 1718, but whose house of worship was destroyed when partially built, by a mob more zealous than liberal for the service of religion. Their congregation was scattered and many of them left the town. Mr. Wellington purchased land from several parties and his farm has come down through many con- veyances to its present owner, Edward Buxton. On the opposite side of the road there was an old house in which Caleb Wall says William Stowell built carding machines many years ago, but I have not been able to corroborate that statement. The house gave place to the beautiful modern one of Albert W. Andrews. The well and sweep still remain. Following the still ascending road there stands on the right hand a brick house on land formerly owned by William Gray, from whom it passed through several owners to Levi Lincoln and from him to Paul Goodell, who sold it with other land to George W. Rugg; from him Timothy Bancroft bought it April 3, 1848. Since his death the farm has been divided into house lots and is known as "Bancroft Park." At the summit of the road there is the farm of Joseph Bond, where Thomas Knight formerly lived and kept a tavern. This was a part of the land originally laid out to Thomas Haggit, one portion of which, March 19, 1733-4, he deeded to "my Dutifull Daughter Johanna Knight wife of Edward Knight"; another portion he gave to "my Dutifull Daughter Lydia Flagg, wife of Ebenezer Flagg 17 January 9, 1739." Mr. Bond purchased of John Glcason, Tyler P. Curtis, Josiah Brittan, Jr., and others. As the traveler proceeds, he is told that his way into the town will be descending from this point. His attention is directed to the long line of hills on his left, the most prominent of which is the highest land in the town, it being 777 feet above sea level. Beyond, but not in sight, is Millstone Hill, from which by a vote of the proprietors in September, 1773, one hundred acres were set apart as a quarry for the free use of the citizens. On the north side of the hill William Crawford, Daniel Heywood and Charles Adams were given land that passed later to John Green. Thomas Green of Leicester in June, 1757, gave to his son John one hundred acres that he bought of Thomas Adams. Additions were made from time to time till it became one of the, largest estates in the town. A brief account of the Green family appeared in an article entitled, "A typical New England house a hundred years ago." On the traveler's right there is spread out a broad ex- panse of rich intervale, gradually rising towards the north, where it meets Indian Hill, the highest point of which is crowned with farm buildings that will be referred to later. In front is swampy ground; around the north side of it the road winds and at a short distance meets another at right angles to it. Before reaching this point an old brick house is passed on the right, on land once in the possession of John Curtis, a son of Ephraim, from whom it passed to Alfred Smith and afterward to Benjamin Flagg, who sold one hundred acres to Samuel Brooks April 30, 1766. His son George came into possession, by will and he sold it to Alfred Dwight Foster April 12, 1826. His heirs sold an undivided half of it to Moore M. Chaffin, and from that estate came the present North Park. We have reached the tavern of Leonard Clark, where the traveler will be left. We go to meet a person approach- ing the town from the north. At the place now called the 2 18 "Summit," so named by the railroad that passes it by a deep cut, because it is the highest point of the road between the town and West Boylston, or "Five Points" by reason of five roads that converge here, we see a gentleman mounted on a fine horse coming up the steep ascent, who meets us at the intersection at right angles of the road he is on with the sixth Massachusetts turnpike. He politely inquires if he is on the right road to Worcester, and is told that he is and that it will be a pleasure to accompany him and point out the places of interest. He says that he left Lancaster early in the morning and passed across Boylston common, and he speaks of a beautiful avenue of maples about two miles back. He is informed that they are on the farm of Rev. William Nash, whose house stood near one end of the maples, but afterwards was moved towards the common. The trees were set out by Charles Nash, his son, who erected the brick house standing on the site of the old one after his father's death. Mr. Charles Nash taught school in a house not far from his ancestral home. A notice of Mr. Nash appeared in a paper on the " Thomas Street School House." Rev. Mr. Nash preached in the meeting house on the common several years. The year before he resigned his office the house was destroyed by fire; another was erected in its place immediately. Finally the denomination abandoned preaching services and the house was closed many years. Recently the property was sold to the Congregational Society, which was driven from its location in the valley by the encroachment of the Metro- politan Reservoir, and the old house has given place to a modern structure. Rev. Mr. Nash possessed some oddities that cropped out occasionally. This story is told of him. He was in the habit of taking a dram at a certain hour and was much disturbed if interrupted at that time. A neighbor called one day for a friendly chat. As the hour for his accustomed indulgence drew near Mr. Nash became fidgety, squirmed about in his chair and, when he could 19 refrain no longer, said, "Neighbor A, tills is the hour at which I usually shirt myself and I shall have to be excused." Neighbor A quickly replied, "Well, Parson Nash, I am reminded that this is my usual time for shirting myself and I will bid you good morning. If you ever should be at my house at shirting time I should be glad to have you join me." We congratulate the gentleman on his entrance to the town over one of its most sightly and beautiful eminences. We ask him to turn back for a view of Mount Wachusett, ten miles distant as the bird flies, the highest point of land in the eastern part of the state, it being 2,018 feet above the level of the sea, distinctly outlined through the clear atmosphere, with the white houses of the village of Princeton snuggled on its southern slope. Far beyond the outline of Monadnock is dimly seen. A little to the left is Rutland, where recently the state has established a sanatarium for consumptives, on a commanding elevation 1,250 feet above sea level. Mount Ararat is pointed out in the foreground, where some one wildly conjectured that a portion of Noah's ark had been discovered. Beyond and not far distant rises the long crest of Winter Hill, on which can be seen the ancient house of Benjamin Whitney. A little to the south of that lies Hancock Hill, once the property of Governor Hancock. The high hill on the horizon further to the right is Asnebumskit, behind which, just concealed from view, is the town of Paxton, 1,135 feet above sea level. In the valley at his feet the silver thread of Weasel Brook winds its way east of Danson's or North Pond, whose waters shimmer in the afternoon sun. Following southward Tetasset, latterly called Tatnuck, where Benjamin Flagg has a tavern, meets the eye. On the horizon beyond, the town of Leicester, 1,007 feet above the sea, can be seen six miles away. Turning backwards towards the left the point of the spire of the meeting house in Boylston rises solitary out of the encompassing forest. Beyond, just over 20 the horizon in the northeast, are the towns of Berlin and Bolton; in the latter place there is a meeting house over one hundred years old whose roof is still covered with the shingles originally placed thereon. Running the eye along the eastern horizon the white spire of the meeting house in Shrewsbury arrests the attention. There Parson Sumner dispensed the gospel sixty-three years. Midway in the valley Wigwam Hill, where Sagamore Pennasanet had his seat, is pointed out. At its base are the placid waters of Long Pond, with its winding, indented shores clothed with verdure, stretching away towards the southeast till it ends in the town of Grafton, which can be seen on a distant hill. Nearer and more to the south are lesser elevations, Oak, Sagatabscot, where Digory Sargent, an early settler, was slain by the Indians, his wife carried off and tomahawked on Tetasset Hill because of her inability to keep up with the retreating savages, and Pakachoag or Boggachoag, the seat of a tribe of Nipmuck Indians to whom Eliot the Apostle preached. The gentleman gazes with delight at the panorama of valley, hills, mountains and waters spread out before him and reverently exclaims, "How wonderful are thy works. In wisdom hast thou made them all." He asks whither the straight road leads that can be seen for a long distance, and is told that it is the sixth Massachusetts turnpike between Shrewsbury and Amherst. He is re- minded that over this road that part of Burgoyne's prisoners who were confined in barracks at Rutland, marched in 1777. A dim tradition is that two large chestnut trees at the corner of the roads on this spot were called Burgoyne's chestnuts. It goes on to say that the soldiers rested here and dropped some chestnuts that sprang up and produced the trees. "That is an interesting statement, if true," said the gentleman. A schoolhouse at the intersection of the roads is pointed out. In a deed dated September 9, 1772, Isaac Knight gave to the town a piece of land in these words: "In Consideration of the Regard I have for the 21 Inhabitants of the Northerly Part of the Town of Worcester in the County of Worcester which Were in the Month of March last by the said Town of Worcester Set off as a Squadron for keeping a School and to Encourage them to Build a School House," etc. A short distance westward on the turnpike is the tavern and farm of Colonel George Moore. This was a part of the tract laid out to William Taylor, that descended to Isaac Witherbee, who in 1745 deeded sixty acres to Josiah Peirce. In 1792 Josiah deeded one-half of his farm of two hundred acres to his son Abijah, and from him it came down to George Moore in 1823; his heirs deeded it to Luther G. Moore. It is now owned by Josiah B. Shattuck, and others. Proceeding towards the town the gentleman inquires the name of the road he is on and is told that it is called the "Lancaster Road" and is one of the oldest, and was laid out Nov. 6, 1752, from Worcester to Lancaster, "through Thomas Cowden's land as the road is trod over a place called Burnt Coat Plain to the County road by Mr. John Fisk's." He asks the significance of the name of the plain and is told that we must fall back on tradition. As early as 1714 the description in one deed reads, "near Burnt Coat Plain"; another reads, " joyning to Burnt Coat Plain." The tradition is that an early settler, in clearing up his land, set fire to a brush heap and accidentally burned up his coat. "That does not seem to be sufficient to give a name to this great plain, embracing hundreds of acres," said the gentleman. "I should suppose that a tragedy, rather than a comedy, had been enacted here." "You have given me a clue to a supposable transaction," I replied. It is not improbable that some of the early settlers were surprised by the Indians, tomahawked, scalped and their coats burned. One of these settlers may have escaped and fled towards the northeast; was apprehended by other Indians and deprived of his breeches, for it is of record that John Hancock sold his Breeches Meadow in that 22 section to Benjamin Child October 6, 1783. Escaping a second time the harassed fugitive fled in a nearly opposite direction to the town of Hubbardston, where he was again waylaid by Indians, in ascending a hill and stripped of his shirt that they burned; thereafter the place was known as "Burnt Shirt Hill." Like the Wandering Jew the settler may be fleeing on still, though, unlike him, clad either in fig leaves or the skins of wild animals. While engaged in conversation one of those little red schoolhouses is passed that our ancestors planted about as soon as they did the meeting house, both of which became such mighty factors in the formation of a nation of freemen. Although the house has disappeared persons are living who received all their early instruction therein. A short dis- tance beyond is an old brick house painted white, formerly belonging to Jonathan Knight; it came to him through several purchases from Edward Knight, an early settler and large landholder on the plain; the present owner is Anton Gross. The tavern stand of Edward Knight, at the corner of a road running down past Isaac Gleason's to the sixth Massachusetts turnpike near the Jonathan Lovell place, already spoken of, soon appears ; at sight of it the gentleman decides to stop and remain over night. After a bountiful supper to which all the guests do full justice, the company gathers round the wide open fireplace and conversation becomes general. In reply to an inquiry about the estate connected with the tavern the landlord says, "that in 1715 a committee of five, consisting of Thomas How, John Ballantine, William Dudley, William Taylor and Adam Winthrop, was appointed by the General Court to parti- tion the lands included in the place called Quansikomon among the settlers. The committee set off to themselves for their services four hundred acres apiece, embracing the whole of this plain, making in all 2,143 acres that included 143 acres additional set off to Adam Winthrop." This 23 tract extended from the Shrewsbury line on the east nearly to Brooks street on the west, and from the present Holden line on the north nearly to Lincoln street on the south. On the southern border of this tract they laid out a road one hundred feet wide, that was discontinued in 1733, restored to common land and afterwards, in 1747, sold to Captain Israel Jennison. Visions of a future city hall, post-office, art museum, high school, technical school and colleges must have floated before the eyes of the committee. Yet it was no chimera, for there is no finer elevation in Worcester than the old Burnt Coat Plain or Indian Hill. "The committee did not hold their divisions long. John Ballantine's was sold in 1735 to an ancestor of mine whose name I bear, the first one of the numerous Knights who inhabited this plain. William Dudley sold his to Estes Hatch, who afterwards transferred it to John Murray. Adam Winthrop sold his 514 acres to Thomas Green, who called it "my^ Harvest Hill Farm." William Taylor sold his to Joseph Heath and from him it came to me April 1, 1785, after two prior transfers of 191 acres to other persons." Subsequently this farm was sold to John Flavel Clark in 1827 and 1830. At and before this time Mr. Clark held the office of jailer from 1819 to 1837; he was succeeded in that position by Asa Mathews, who occupied the place from 1837 to 1849. Rufus Carter became his successor and retained the position till 1872. If reports are true Mr. Clark was not as successful in farming as he was in guarding criminals. Instead of taking time by the forelock he allowed the old man to seize his. It used to be said that he dug his potatoes with a crowbar, so late in the season did he begin to harvest his crops. However it must have been a malicious slander. Mr. Clark had a son Flavel, one of those unfortunate ones who call out our sympathy and pity. He was harmless and the spark of intellect burned very dimly. He died September, 1902, over eighty years old. His' case is one of those ntysteries 24 that are unrevealed to us. It served, however, to bring out in clear light the Christlike love and tender solicitude of his sister, Mrs. Mary J. Wadley, of Augusta, Ga., who, notwithstanding her own family cares and deep sorrows, supplied her brother's wants for more than forty years. After this narration our gentleman said that he noticed a well by the road with a carefully constructed curb near the entrance of the tavern, and asked if there was any special interest attached to it. The landlord said he dug it and gave it to the public to be free forever. This caused one of the company to speak of the wells of ancient time, of that one over the possession of which the servants of Abimelech quarrelled with Abraham; of those that Abra- ham dug and the Philistines filled up and Isaac afterward opened. Another called attention to the well around which clustered the beautiful pastoral story of Abraham's servant in his search for a wife for Isaac. A third told of the well of Jacob at Samaria on which our Saviour sat and revealed himself to the woman as the well of living water. Another spoke of the well at Bahurim, down into which the spies of David went and were concealed by a woman, who spread a cloth over its mouth and strewed ground corn thereon. Another brought to our recollection Sir Walter Scott's story of St. Ronans Well in the town of Inverleithen upon Trent. Another alluded to Mauls' well, told of in the "House of Seven Gables" by Nathaniel Hawthorne, into which if one looked or in the waters of which, if one bathed, he would be seized with forgetfulness. The gentleman spoke of the importance attached to wells in hot and dry climates, of village wells and town pumps, places of meeting for friendly chat and gossip. He also called to remembrance the well dug in 1690 in the garrison compound at Deerfield that furnished water to the imprisoned inhabitants when beseiged by Indians. One of the company said he had been puzzled with the story narrated by that veracious traveler Mark Twain, who tells of the well in the citadel 25 at Cairo that Joseph dug with his own hands through the solid rock ninety feet deep, and of the same donkeys he employed to raise the water still at work, and how tired they seemed to be. The landlord said he was led to dig the well at the road side and make it free by reading the story of the Captain's well, beautifully told by Mrs. Harriet Prescott Spofford and rendered into verse by Whittier. He said he would read the poem if agreeable to the company. Before commencing he related the circumstances connected with it, as follows: "Captain Valentine Bagley was wrecked on the coast of Arabia and nearly perished -with thirst. He made a vow to dig a well that should be free to every one if he should again reach his home." Two or three stanzas of the poem are here given: * * * * "And if ever I reach my home again, Where earth has springs and the sky has rain, I will dig a well for the passers by, And none shall suffer from thirst as I." * * * * "But when the morning came he called for his spade, 'I must pay my debt to the Lord,' he said, 'And the well I promised by Osman's Sea, I am digging for him in Amesbury.' * * * * 'Why dig you here,' asked the passer by. 'Is there gold or silver the road so nigh?' 'No friend,' he answered, 'but under this sod Is the blessed water, the wine of God.' " A member of the company who had been a quiet listener, but had taken no part in the conversation, asked if there was time for the story of another well. A ready response being given, he said that many years ago Captain Nathaniel Perley of Rowley built a vessel of ninety tons burden on Rowley common near his house. No water being near his neighbors quizzed him frequently during the building, probably much as old Captain Noah's townspeople did him while he was constructing the ark, saying, "What are you thinking of?" "How are you going to launch her?" "Aren't you a little beside yourself?" "Will a heavy dew 26 float her?" But the Captain kept his own counsel and worked on till the vessel was completed. Then he collected more than one hundred yoke of oxen from all parts of the county and hauled it a distance of one and a half miles to the water, where it was launched successfully. On the way there was a well at which a stop was made for rest. The Captain had provided a barrel of rum for the occasion; the head was knocked in; the contents were poured into the well and the people told to help themselves. For a long time thereafter it was a common saying that the Captain launched his vessel with the help of a hundred yoke of oxen and a barrel of rum. One of the company who was impressed with the ludicrous side of the story, said that all present could recall the lines told them in childhood as follows: Ding, dong, bell. The cat's in the well ! Who put her in? Little Billy Green. Who pulled her out? Great Johnny Stout. "O, what a naughty boy was that, Thus to maltreat poor pussy cat, Who never did him any harm, But caught the mice in grandpa's barn." Before retiring it was proposed that all should join in singing "The Old Oaken Bucket." The gentleman traveler said that the well that occasioned the writing of the poem by Samuel Woodworth is in Greenbush, a village of Scituate ; he had drank water from the well and carried away with him a bottle of it. The well is within three or four feet of the house and the old fashioned sweep still hangs over it. A verse of the poem is given: "How sweet from the green mossy brim to receive it, As, poised on the curb, it inclined to my lips, Not a full blushing goblet could tempt me to leave it, Though filled with the nectar that Jupiter sips. And now, far removed from the loved situation, The tear of regret will intrusively swell, As fancy reverts to my father's plantation, And sighs for the bucket which hangs in the well. The old oaken bucket, the iron bound bucket, The moss-covered bucket which hangs in the well." 27 In the morning after a refreshing rest and a substan- tial breakfast the gentleman and his guide resumed their journey. On the opposite side of the road is the farm that in later years became the property of William C. Clark, who was landlord of the old United States Hotel at the corner of Main and Mechanic streets; the hotel was subse- quently moved back on to Mechanic street and a building erected on its site, for many years known as Clark's block. Presently the farm of Jonathan A. White is reached, with its one-story house and barns adjoining. In reply to an inquiry the gentleman is told that Mr. White was born in Heath, N. H., December 18, 1801, the son of David, of Charlemont, and Abigail the daughter of Jonathan and Tirzah (Field) Ashley. He came to Worcester when of age, with a companion, seeking work. They called at the farm of Joel Gleason on the west side of the road leading to Barber's, at what is now called Northville, asking for employment. Mr. Gleason hired them, though his family objected to Mr. White on account of his small size. He disappointed them by doing as much work as any of the men and by his diligence and faithfulness. Mr. Gleason was the son of Jonathan, who owned a large farm lying on both sides of Weasel Brook, which he divided amongst his several children as they married. He used to say that he could see some part of each of his children's farms from his own dooryard. One child, Betsey, born October 16, 1793, married Amos Flagg March 31, 1816, and settled on this farm of which we are speaking. Mr. White accom- panied the new couple to their home, as the hired man. Mr. Flagg died at the end of eight years and Betsey gave her hand to Jonathan April 6, 1825. Three months before their marriage she deeded her farm to him. Some of her friends spoke of the risk she was running by this act. She replied, "If I am willing to trust my life to him I am sure I can my acres." Her confidence was not misplaced; they lived together happily fifty-three years. He survived her 28 ten years and died at the age of eighty-seven. After their marriage he added to his farm by the purchase of land on the opposite side of the road. Mr. White said that when he came to Worcester there were only three houses on Summer, or Back, street. One was at or near Lincoln square; the second was Daniel G. Wheeler's, that was standing within a few years at the corner of Exchange street, where his daughters Frances M., Nancy C. and Elizabeth L. lived so many years. Mr. Wheeler's land extended westerly to Mill Brook and southerly as far as Bridge street. The third house was at Washington square, occupied by a negro family of the name of Hemenway. A daughter, Hannah, was a well known person in town. She died a few years ago at the age of ninety. She was a famous cook, as was also her mother Hannah, and many a girl thought she could not be well married without one of Hannah's wedding cakes. She was cook at my grand- father's. My grandmother was an invalid during the last years of her life, and a housekeeper, a relative of the family, was employed. There was frequent friction between the two servants, which my grandfather, a man of peace, often mollified in a quiet way. That condition of things could not continue and at last the cook left, much to my grand- father's regret. Neither time nor membership in the First Baptist Church removed the recollection of her grievances. Riding near her house on May street, a short time before her death, with my wife, my cousin and the housekeeper alluded to, my cousin suggested that we should stop and drink some of Hannah's root beer, as an excuse to see her and add a few pennies to her meagre income. After par- taking of the beverage my cousin said, "Hannah, you remember me, don't you." "0, yes, Mrs. Damon, I allers member you." "This is Mrs. C ," my cousin said, "you have not forgotten her." Straightening up herself she instantly said, "I don't member Mrs. C . Nevah knew her." To relieve the embarrassment my cousin said, 29 turning to mo, "This is Henry Martyn, of course you remember him." "Laws yes," she said, "I member him, but I don't member nuthin good of him." The horse becoming uneasy at that point, we bade her goodby and drove on, indulging in a hearty laugh. During this narration the travelers had reached the end of the elevated plateau over which the road took them. The gentleman could not withhold expressions of pleasure at the beauties spread around. He thought the view from this point superior to any he had seen. The valley at the west was nearer and objects were more distinctly seen. The waters of North Pond seemed to be within a stone's throw. The town lay nestled among the hills. He was reminded of the Psalmist's words, "As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about his people henceforth even forever." A cluster of farm build- ings in the valley below east of the pond is the home of Robert Barber, one of the Presb3^terians spoken of early in this narrative. He obtained his broad acres in part from Samuel Waldo, a son of Cornelius, an extensive land-owner, and brother of the first Daniel, by deed dated February 1, 1744; a part from James Whitney; a part from Thomas Stearns; and still another from John Box and Benjamin Austin of Boston, attorneys for Sarah Brooke, executrix of John Brooke of London, England. Robert by deed dated April 8, 1767, gave to his son Joseph 110 acres "where I now live, all my farming tools, my pew in the Meeting House, reserving the privilege of a seat for me and my wife Sarah during our lives. I also reserve my corn mill." April 8, 1807, Joseph deeded the farm to his sons William and Silas, "including all my live stock of creatures, except four cows during my life and the use of two of them to my wife during her life if she survives me, reserving the privilege of seats in my pew in the Meeting House." The farm is still in possession of their descendants at a place called "Barber's Crossing." Near neighbors to the Barbers 30 were the Stowells, Cornelius being the first one of the family to settle there. Robert Barber sold to his son Matthew land which came to him by purchase from William Gray and John Kelso; a portion of it was laid out to Stephen Minot. Matthew sold to Cornelius Stowell land including "my fulling mill, clothier's shop, house," etc., situated on Mill Brook. Cornelius sold the same property to his son Thomas, who continued the business of weaving cloths. Joseph Barber sold to Thomas Stowell land border- ing on a channel cut from North Pond to convey water to the fulling mill. There was a bridge over the brook, probably in about the same position as the present one; it is spoken of as between Barber's and Sto well's. Samuel succeeded Thomas in the clothier's business and from him the property came into the possession of Frederick T. Stowell. It remained in the family one hundred years or more, when it was divided amongst several parties. In 1825 Samuel Stowell sold land at the outlet of North Pond to the Blackstone Canal Company for the purpose of erecting a dam on its east side, with liberty to take gravel from his land. The pond was the storage feeder for the canal. South of and bordering on the Stowells was the farm of Jonathan Gleason, which embraced land on both sides of the road. This passed to his descendants, and that on the east side of the road, from them to George T. Rice and Horace Chenery, manufacturers of cloths. A pond had been created by the erection of a dam, giving them power for their factory. The Stowells and Barbers sold them flowage rights. A portion of this purchase by Mr. Rice was sold to Benjamin Goddard, 2d, and Lyman Bellows. Mr. Ichabod Washburn was associated with Mr. Goddard in a factory below that of Messrs. Rice and Chenery. Messrs. Pliny A. and John M. Daniels bought out Messrs. Rice and Chenery and carried on the business a few years, when they sold to Harrison Bliss. The factory was destroyed by fire and has not been rebuilt. A portion of Mr. Gleason's 31 farm lying on the west side of the road extending west to North Pond was purchased by Mr. Chenery, who erected thereon a house, in which he lived till his death, after which it passed into the hands of John and George W. Mann. The Chadick or Chaddick or Chadok or Chaddok or Chad- wick farm bordered that of Jonathan Gleason on the south, and, like that of the others north of it, was a part of Corne- lius Waldo's tract of seven hundred acres. The farmhouse stood on the site of a modern house erected a few years since by George A. Brigham, south of Chadwick square. The land extended westerly to Forest street and lay largely on the south side of the old Joblin road. John H. Brooks, Jr., purchased a part of this farm and carried on the black- smithing business in the old shop at Chadwick square. John M. Brigham and his brother Calvin and Francis P. Stowell bought another part of the estate, which is still owned by the descendants of the Brighams. The travelers turn into a lane leading to a house elevated above the road, from which a still wider prospect is obtained ; this house belongs to Walter Bigelow, the son of Deacon David, who is a son of Daniel, an early settler on Pakachoag Hill, in the south part of the town. David was born in 1731 and his home was on the sixth Massachusetts turn- pike, already spoken of, where he and his son Silas kept a hotel for half a century. Preceding and during the Revolution he was active in promoting measures for the public safety and providing for the army, which caused him many cold rides through the wintry snows to meet with the committee in the centre of the town. It was his brother Colonel Timothy who raised a company of minutemen to answer the summons from Concord and Lexington. David had ten children, of whom Walter, the youngest but one, was born November 15, 1775, at the old homestead. He learned the carpenter's trade and followed it for several years. He married November 18, 1799, Judith, a daughter of Deacon William Trowbridge, 32 who lived in that part of the town now called Trowbridge- ville. They began housekeeping on the west side of the Lancaster road on the site of the house built by William I. Brown, where Mrs. Ephraim Whitman now lives; this house he hired of his sister Mrs. Dolly Chadwick, the widow of Joseph, who owned a large farm lying on both sides of the road. In this house two of his children were born, Sarah and Andrew. April 23, 1806, he bought of his sister Dolly and Benjamin Heywood, administrators of the estate of Joseph Chadwick, two acres on the south side of the farm on the west side of the road, where he built a house, still standing, in which Professor E. H. Russell lived fourteen years, now owned by Edwin P. Curtis. Here a son, Walter, Jr., and daughter, who died early, were born. During his stay in this house he worked at his trade and superintended the care of his sister's farm. March 12, 1814, he bought of Jonathan Knight seventy-six acres on the east side of the road where we are now; this farm he leased on shares till 1819, but the arrangement not proving satisfactory, he carried it on himself thenceforward. February 1, 1816, he purchased of John Simonds seventy-six acres additional. In the summer of that year a daughter was born, Mary E., now Mrs. Davis of Staten Island, N. J., from whom many of these facts were obtained. In 1829 a brick house replaced the old wooden one and in 1832 the long barn was built. The erection of it caused many remarks, for Mr. Bigelow said that if it could not be raised without the use of rum it would never be. At that time raisings were festive occasions and often ended in drunken scenes. Several years prior to this Mr. Bigelow had taken a decided stand on the temperance question and would not allow liquor to be kept or used on his premises. All honor to Mr. Walter Bigelow, Senr. We may hear about the work of intemperance in that neighborhood later. The barn was raised without accident and a generous dinner for seventy persons provided. Mr. Bigelow died in May, 1857; 33 his son Walter, born August 22, 1811, spent his boyhood and early youth on the farm. He gradually assumed con- trol of it and took affectionate care of his parents in their advanced age. In 1840 he married Mary K. Hyde of Newton, by whom he had five children, one of whom, Harriet A., married Edwin P. Curtis, who retains the farm; and another, Sarah H., married Charles H. Davis, M.D., son of John and Harriet (Gates), who served in the War of the Rebellion as an army surgeon; at its close he followed his profession in Worcester till his death September 16, 1897. Mr. Bigelow died February 17, 1870. Returning to the road, after thanking Mr. Bigelow for his kindness, the travelers descend the south end of the elevated plain and soon arrive at John Fisk's or Fisk's Corner, where now stands a handsome brick house shaded by beautiful drooping elms and surrounded by every com- fort. The passer-by can hardly resist the temptation to covet such an attractive place. It is on the corner of Burncoat and Millbrook streets, and has been known as the Barnard farm for many years. To-day if any one should ask for the location of Fisk's Corner, no satisfactory reply could be obtained. Let us delay a short time over the history of tins spot. Soon after the third settlement of the town a large part of the territory surrounding this corner came into the possession of Henry Lee from Ephraim Curtis, John Stearns and John Hubbard. Lee sold to John Fisk of Watertown two hundred acres and a pew in the meeting house March 20, 1743. Sarah Fisk, the sister of John, joint owner with him, sold one-half of this to her nephews James and Samuel, and the other half to John Gleason; and he sold the same, Feb. 12, 1822, to Lewis Barnard, son of the John whose farm was described early in this narrative. Lewis deeded one-half of his farm to his son Captain John, and at his death he devised the remainder to him. Captain John by his will filed in 1873, gave all his real estate to his son George A., the present 3 34 owner. Captain John married in 1826 Sarah, the eldest child of Walter Bigelow, Senr. She was born December 23, 1800, and died in April, 1900, nearly one hundred years old. A short distance north of this farm on the same side of the road on the northerly slope of the hill Isaac Gleason owned land in which was a mine, in the possession of said Gleason, Daniel McFarland and others, that was worked for silver. Had this mine been as productive as those of Mexico and Arizona the ratio of silver to gold might have antedated the present ratio. Like many other ventures the mine proved worthless. March 5, 1786, Isaac Gleason sold to Jonathan Gleason the land, but reserved as not alienated or sold so much of said mine and other privileges as belonged to him and the other owners. This was twenty and more years after the mine was opened. It was on the spot where Walton L. Wood made bricks not many years ago. A few rods further on our way Clark's tavern is reached, where our traveler from Shrewsbury was left. Many persons can recall the small one-story brick house on the west side of Adams square, a short distance north of the present Congregational Meeting House. Formerly this was a store; beside it was the tavern and attached to that was a bowling alley. Liquor flowed freely over the bar and the seeds of intemperance were sown in many families, to be handed down from father to son. It can hardly be believed that this beautiful place, adorned with a noble schoolhouse, expensive dwellings, neat churches, all in- dicative of prosperity and refinement, could have been notoriously the worst place in the town. It was known as Sodom and Jug Corner. Will the time ever come when we shall see eye to eye and banish this great curse of intem- perance from our midst! No wonder that Walter Bigelow, Senior, battled for temperance; again we say all honor to him and to those like him, who, in a time of nearly 35 universal indulgence in the use of intoxicating liquors, placed themselves squarely against it! Before leaving this spot, let it be said that the recent foisting of a local name on this square in the place of one transcendently glorious in our country's history, reveals either a great ignorance of the history of this spot, or a lamentable lack of civic pride. On the occasion of the second visit of the Marquis de Lafayette to the United States, in his journey from Boston he spent the night of September 3, 1824, at the residence of Sampson Vreeland Stoddard Wilder in Bolton, he having become acquainted with Mr. Wilder during his residence in France. On his way from Bolton the next day Lafayette was met at this tavern by the committee of Worcester to escort him to the town. There is an old oak standing in the lot on the east side of the road, whose top is deformed. It is said that at the election of John Adams to the Presidency the event was celebrated by placing a tar barrel in the upper part of the tree and setting fire to it. The ancient Connecticut Road, over which we passed in the first part of this article, was left at this junction of the two ways. On account of the wide morass the road wound around its northern edge. The town in 1808 laid out the road from the old Chadwick house across the morass to meet the old road at the eastern end of the present Melrose street. Some conjecture that from this place it followed nearly the course of the present Paine street, crossed Bimelech Brook at Garden street, thence to Joe Bill road and so on by a circuitous southerly route to New Worcester. Others suggest that it coincided with Millbrook street over the "foarding" place as described in one deed, past Barber's, northerly and westerly of the swamp and westerly of New Worcester. Probably the precise location will never be determined. March, 1748-9, there was laid out a "Town way three 36 rods wide commonly known and called ye new Road, land being left by ye Proprietors for ye same begining at ye Corner of Lieut John Fisks fence by his Sider mill So by said Fisks fence until it Extends to Danson's Brook and ouer s d Brook in ye old foardway by land of John Fisk Jun r till it Extends to ye Road Leading to Robert Barbers then turning Southerly by Barbers Road till it Extends over a Small Slough then turning westerly through the land of Cornelius Waldo Esq 1 " till it Extends to ye land belonging to ye heirs of major Daniel Henchman Deceast till it Extends to land of Joseph Heath Esq through said Heaths by the Dwelling house where Jasper Moore now Dwells untill it Extends to ye Lane Leading to the Dwelling house of Stephen Sawing." This is the present Millbrook street to its intersection with West Boylston street, which it may have followed to Chadwick square; thence westerly by a way that has disappeared to the west side of Hancock Hill. Stephen Sawing appears to have lived on land which afterwards was included in the Chamberlain farm. Proceeding towards the town a large house is seen on the left, opposite Mr. Bigelow's first heme. It belongs to the extensive farm of Joseph Chadwick already noticed. Mr. Chadwick and his widow Dolly kept a tavern here many years. This farm came from John Gray, and at the time of Joseph's death it comprised one hundred and forty acres, lying on both sides of the road. Through several transfers it came into the possession of George W. Brooks, who sold it to Alfred D. Foster and he deeded it to Josiah Brittan June 27, 1833. Several years since the house was moved a few rods to the northeast of its original location and is still owned and occupied by Mr. Brittan's descendants. A large part of the farm has been covered with fine houses, built on well shaded streets, and the region has become one of the most attractive sections of the town. Between this farmhouse and Green lane on the east side of the road there were no houses. In the valley where are now hun- 37 dreds of buildings, there was an extensive brickyard, worked for many years by Josiah Brittan and afterwards by George Hobbs. Much of the building material of the town came out of this valley. On the opposite side of the road, a short distance south of the Walter Bigelow, Senr., house, there stood, and still stands, an old brick house on the Paine estate, which passed into the possession of Howard Holden, later, who raised and otherwise improved it. This and the Bigelow house were the only houses on that side of the road between the Clark tavern and the Timothy Paine house. In the valley west of the road and east of Mill Brook there was the house of John Kelso; to allow him to pass out from his land, the town laid out a road through Timothy Paine's to the county road, February 25, 1765, a part of the way being a bridle path; this was dis- continued and the entire length made a bridle path March 7, 1785. Green lane was laid out in 1763 through land of John Ball, to accommodate John Green. John Ball bought of John Chandler 127 acres on both sides of the road April 24, 1746. John Chandler had it from Thomas Dick, who bought of John Oulton in 1734. John Ball died in 1756, leaving his farm to his widow Lydia, who sold to Timothy Paine in 1759. There is pointed out to the travelers the site of the Scotch Presbyterian Meeting House, the story of which has been told. The Ball farm was bounded on the south by the extensive tract granted to Daniel Hench- man in 1716 and 1718. It embraced 254 acres and extended from near Perkins street on the north to Arch street on the south and from Mill Brook on the west to Millstone Hill on the east, including Bladder Pond. This was subse- quently divided, in 1763, the most southerly part going to Rev. Isaac Burr, the most northerly to James Varney and his son and Mary Sigourne" and the remainder to John Hancock. James Varney sold his part to Timothy Paine and Mary Sigourne's part went to John Knowcr. On the 38 latter lot was a very old and poor house, that was occupied many years by Ephraim Wesson. The property was finally sold for taxes by the city and bought by James H. Wall and Edward H. Hemenway, who sold it to Charles M. Miles. This lot was about 115 feet wide and extended eastward to Millstone Hill, comprising six acres and ninety-five rods. This John Knower was not an immediate descendant of the ancient navigator, though one deed might lead to that inference; his name was spelled Knower. Opposite to this place was the Paine mansion situated on the southern edge of the very large Paine estate. This is so well known from repeated descriptions that I will not detract from what has been written alreadj r , through any ignorance of mine. Latterly it has been known as "The Oaks." At the time of Timothy Paine's death the home estate comprised two hundred and thirty acres. A brick house on the south corner of Paine street was occupied at one time by Rev. John S. C. Abbott, pastor of the Calvinist Church, one of a family of noted writers, he being the author of many histories. After he left, Draper Ruggles, at the head of the well known establish- ment of Ruggles, Nourse and Mason, manufactures of agricultural implements at Court Mills, occupied the house. Subsequently Joseph F. Loring, a stove dealer on Main street dwelt there. From the old Knower house to the Geer place there were no houses and no streets had been opened eastward. All to the east of the road was open land. The Lincoln farm barn stood about where Westminster street runs between Harrington avenue and Catharine street. The well connected with the barn contained excellent water, and was within six feet of the north line of the lot once owned by me. When Draper Ruggles built on Catharine street he bought the right to carry water to his house from this well. Subsequently the lot containing this well was sold and the purchaser built a barn and located the horse stall 39 over the well. Trouble speedily arose at Mr. Ruggles' house and an energetic remonstrance was made. The matter was settled satisfactorily by the advice of a lawyer. John Hancock sold 152 acres, his portion of the Hench- man grant, to Levi Lincoln April 26, 1782, who, at his death May 29, 1868, devised the estate to his son William. John W. Lincoln, assignee of William, sold a part of the property to Edward Lamb of Boston, who sold the portion on the west side of the road to David S. Messinger, including the farmhouse, which Mr. Messinger moved to the corner of Grove and Lexington streets, where it remains; he sold the larger part of his purchase to William A. W'heeler May 29, 1848, who erected thereon the house which he occupied till 1867, when he deeded it to the wife of Philip L. Moen. In the rear of the farmhouse there was a small but beautiful body of water, shaded by willows and other trees, called Lincoln's Pond. It became a frequent resort for picnics. The main entrance to it was through a double row of pines from Lincoln street along the north line of the estate of Edwin Conant. This row of trees met the fate of most trees a few years since. The pond was filled up and has become a part of the freight yard of the Worcester and Nashua Railroad Company. Three scrawny willows are sole survivors of many that hung over the quiet waters, on whose surface happy children were rowed a long time ago. Mr. Lamb sold that portion of his purchase on the east side of the road to Ebenezer Harrington, who, with his brother Charles A., kept a drug and paint store on Main street immediately south of the Calvinistic Meeting House. Over their store door was a sign, "The Good Samaritan," which depicted a man in the act of pouring oil and wine into the wounds of another who had fallen into the hands of robbers. Mr. Harrington opened streets and cut up his purchase into lots; the vacant hillside is now adorned with many dwellings. William Lincoln sold, on the east side of the road, to 40 Benjamin F. Thomas, a distinguished lawyer and judge, the place now owned by the heirs of Lewis Barnard, son of the Captain Lewis heretofore mentioned; to John Davis, prominent in the affairs of the state and nation as Represen- tative in Congress, Governor and United States Senator — the house in which he was born was standing in Northborough a few years since; to Rev. Alonzo Hill, the colleague and successor of Rev. Aaron Bancroft; to Joseph G. Ken- dall, Clerk of the Courts for many years. Mr. Kendall opened Kendall street; he sold a part of his land to Benjamin F. Thomas, who conveyed it to William R. Hooper and William C. Thompson; they sold to Archibald M. Morrison, an Episcopal rector, who deeded it to Philip L. Moen, and he sold to William A. Wheeler. A short distance further on our way we find the Geer place, that came down from John Chandler, through several conveyances. One of the owners was Deacon Samuel Bridge, a wig, or peruke maker, as he is described in one deed. In front of this house there were three very large and shapely elms that were cut down in 1903. Adjoining the Geer place was that of Artemas Ward, for a long time Register of Deeds; a daughter, Sarah, taught school and afterwards became the wife of William M. Bickford. Mr. Ward's sons sold the property to David S. Messinger, who built the wooden block on its site. Polly Whitney owned the next place; it was a part of the Chandler property which he had from Rev. Isaac Burr in the division of the Henchman grant. Polly was a weaver of carpets and rugs on a roughly built loom in one of her rooms. In my early days it was a treat to watch- the operation of the machine. Her parents were Ebenezer and Martha, who lived in a low one-story house on the west side of Main street at the beginning of the descent into New Worcester. The house was pulled down a few years since to make way for a more modern one. Riding past there with my father he told me of a negro who lived in the house who said that he would be willing 41 to be flayed alive if thereby he could obtain the rights and privileges of a white man. The Whitney property on Lincoln street passed to the Worcester Gas Light Company and thence to Charles H. Morgan. Next south was the Samuel Chandler property, a part of the Henchman grant. The mansion house now stands at the corner of Belmont street. As far back as I can remember it was put to bad uses; it has been a liquor hole and it seems in a fair way to continue so. The house stood north of its present location, about where the office of the Gas Light Company was, and it faced the south, at an angle with the road. In 1782 and for a few years thereafter Daniel Waldo, Senr., occupied this house, and afterwards Levi Lincoln, Jr. There was a large elm in front of it. In the rear was a long barn; the place was known as Stearns tavern and it bore a bad reputation. One night the cry of Fire! was heard. In common with boys at that time I was soon on the spot and helping at the brakes of the fire engine. The barn was totally destroyed, with the contents, includ- ing several horses and cows. Many persons wished the house had been burned instead of the barn and the dumb beasts. After Mr. Chandler's death in 1813 or '14, twenty-five acres of the estate were sold to Carey and William H. Howard; this extended easterly and included what was afterward the Samuel Davis property, now owned by the Memorial Hospital. This Howard farm, as it was called, passed through several hands, a portion of it being bought by the Gas Light Company. South of this estate and a part of the Chandler property thirty-one and one-fourth acres were sold to Francis Blake, and from him it descended through William Eaton, Nathan Heard and John F. Clarke to Edward Earle, who sold a large part to various persons. Some ruins on the south side of the square called forth an inquiry from the travelers, who were told that a stone jail was built there in 1788, and it was then supposed that it would last for two or three centuries. But in less than 42 fifty years its demolition took place, a better one having been built. In the stone jail persons were confined who could not or would not pay their debts; they were allowed to transact business during the day and return to the jail at night, their families supplying them with food and clothing. Opposite the jail stood the building of the American Antiquarian Society, which was organized in 1812. Isaiah Thomas erected the house in 1820 and gave the Society the use of it. On the west side of the road that we have been over there were no streets running west from it south of Adams square. Below the Lincoln farmhouse William Lincoln sold a- lot to Isaac Goodwin, who sold to Edwin Conant. Mr. Goodwin had a daughter Jane, who married Loring H. Austen and was distinguished as an authoress. Mr. Conant was a lawyer, the son of Jacob and Relief (Burpee) of Sterling; he was born August 20, 1810, and died March 2, 1891; he married first Maria E. Estabrook, daughter of Joseph and Ruth (Greenwood) of Royalston; he married second Elizabeth Sumner Wheeler, daughter of Joseph and Lucy (Sumner) of Dixfield, Me.; he was the ninth gen- eration in descent from Roger of England. Mr. Conant changed his residence to the corner of Harvard and State streets in 1872; this property he gave to the Natural History Society, and that on Lincoln street to the inhabi- tants of Sterling, at his death. Next south of Mr. Conant's came additional land of Isaac Goodwin, which Oliver H. Blood, a dentist, occupied for a few years, and afterward George G. Burbank, a druggist, owned it; William H. Sawyer is its present possessor. An open space, now the yard of the railroad company, was formerly the mill pond of Captain John Wing, and afterwards of Cornelius Waldo, who continued the use of the mill. South of the pond was the house of Timothy Keith, a watchmaker and jeweler, whose store was on the east side of Main street a little 43 south of School street. This property now belongs to the railroad company. Then come the two old brick blocks, which were designated as the Drury estate; the northern one has been raised and modernized and is owned by Julius E. Bacon; the other was owned by Eri Saunders for thirty years and has passed into the possession of Frederick W. Southwick. In the basement of the north end of this block Miss Sarah Ward kept an infant school nearly seventy years ago. Standing in the sidewalk near by is a mile- stone, one of the only two remaining in Worcester of those which marked the distances on the great post road. On it is the following inscription: 44 Miles From Boston 50 to Springfield The other one stood near Austin street and is among this Society's antiquities; it bears this direction: 48 Mil From Boston. An old wooden building next appears and is one of the few in the town that have any interest attached to them. This property was bought by Timothy Paine in 1751, out of the purchase made by John Chandler through Rev. Isaac Burr from the grant to Daniel Henchman. It is said that, when John Adams was teaching school in Worcester during the years 1755-58, he called at this house frequently. Adjoining was the " Hancock Arms," a resort of the patriots during Revolutionary times. Both of these properties belong to the heirs of Harrison Bliss, who purchased the "Arms" of William M. Bickford, a manufacturer. Mill Brook, or Bimelech, as it was sometimes called, ran on southward from this point through the great meadow, which extended nearly to Front street. The road crossed the brook by a ford. After a time a wooden bridge was 44 thrown over the stream, that served its purpose till it became dangerous, when an arch of stone was built in 1810. A sustaining wall at the upper end of the arch supported the roadway, which was raised several feet. On this wall was an iron railing, and near each end of it were large ash trees in the edge of the road. North of the wall the brook widened into a basin, walled on the east and west sides, extending to the dam, a small part of which remained till the entire stream was arched over; on this small island, as it was called, a large tree and some bushes were growing. A driveway at each end of the wall led down into the water; in warm weather a great many teams were driven through the stream, which was two feet deep and thirty or forty feet wide; the boys, peering through the railing, watched the wading horses with delight. One day a number of elephants in the train of a circus were driven into the basin by their keepers; it was a pleasing sight to witness the evident enjoyment of the animals as they spouted the water over their hugh bodies. Occasionally persons were baptised in this basin; the ceremony always drew a crowd of the curious to the place. Madam Salisbury's grounds on the east side, bordering on the water, were supported by a strong and high wall, which was surmounted by a fence just about in the position of the present fence. The stable was in the rear of the house; the same building is used as a tin shop. The entrance to her grounds was on the west side; the street has been widened so as to include the driveway. The same long, low woodshed on that side of the house still remaining, was on the line of the street. Two butternut trees stood in the sidewalk close to the shed. Mrs. Salisbury had a coach and a pair of black horses, which I well remember often to have seen driven out of the yard to the front gate. To prevent the horses, which were headed towards the basin, from plunging into it, a single-rail fence was built. John Wing's heirs sold to Cornelius Waldo a large tract 45 of land on both sides of Mill Brook. At Mr. Waldo's death Joseph "Waldo, one of his heirs, sold one hundred and fifty acres to John Hancock, April 22, 1771; this was on the west side of the brook. Six months later John Hancock sold the same to Stephen Salisbury the elder. Mr. Salisbury and his brother Samuel also bought one hundred and thirty acres on Burnt Coat Plain of Ezekiel How. This they sold to Daniel Heywood April 2, 1792. Mr. Salisbury erected his house about 1770 and kept a store in the eastern part of it. East of the basin that has been described, in front of the present railroad station, on a knoll, there was a long, low wooden building in which Mr. Salisbury began keeping store; later the place was used for a paint shop. It is possible that Daniel Waldo and son occupied this building subsequently for their store. On the south side of the square was located Timothy Bigelow's blacksmith shop, iron works and trip-hammer; he or his father-in-law, Samuel Andrews, built a dam across the brook, thereby forming a pond that extended back to the south end of the arch, which went under and across the square. Afterwards this property, once a part of the Ministerial land, was purchased by Stephen Salisbury, 2d, in 1S24, who erected the ''Court Mills," in which agricul- tural implements were manufactured for many years. A part of this property came to Mr. Bigelow through his wife Anna, daughter of Samuel Andrews. Abraham Lincoln succeeded to the iron business. Timothy Bigelow dug a canal to convey away the water from his null, through land south of his; the right to this was confirmed to Abra- ham Lincoln in 1791 by Mary Lynde, the widow of Joseph; one consideration of the agreement between Mary and Abraham was that she might take water from his flume to her fountain through an inch pipe. The estates immediately south of Timothy Bigelow's are the Lyndes', Joseph and Thomas, from whom they 46 descended to Judge Edward Bangs by marriage, and thence through Elizabeth Grosvenor, widow of Rev. Ebenezer, Isaiah Thomas, Isaac Davis and William Pratt to David S. Messinger, who erected the present block thereon; the estates of Rev. Joseph Wheeler and Nathan Patch, all of which have been described in another article. In the con- veyance of three and one-half acres from Daniel Heywood to Nathan Patch the land is described as opposite Andrew Duncan's store, which was on the homestead of Judge William Jennison. Andrew Duncan married Sarah Lynde, the daughter of Joseph. Our journey with the travelers ends here, we bid them goodbye and they pursue their way through the town. We betake ourselves northward to the Holden line, on the road that is described as leading to Holden by Elisha Smith's. About one mile beyond the line the road crosses the sixth Massachusetts turnpike, nearly four miles from the place where we first met it. It was a circuitous and hilly way to reach Holden, and in 1825 a new road was opened from Thaxter's to Rudman's Mills, which crossed the sixth Massachusetts turnpike still further west, a little east of Chafrm's, so called. This became the stage route to Holden, Rutland, Barre, Princeton, etc. Many a time have I seen the stages drawn by four horses whirl down the hill past my grandfather's on their way to town, leav- ing a great cloud of dust behind them. After staging ceased and the new road to Holden was built in 1851 this road was almost entirely disused for many years, except by pleasure seekers, who found it a delightful drive through the woods. Within a year an electric road has been built and travel that way is greater than ever. The old road of which we first spoke, has been rising continuously from the level of the waters of North Pond, and it reaches its highest altitude a short distance beyond the Holden line. This hill commands an extensive sweep of country in all directions. It is higher than Burnt Coat Plain, and the 47 view is similar to the one already described from that place, though seen at a different angle. Mount Wachusett seems nearer; the western side of Mount Ararat is presented. Asnebumskit is more prominent. The entire valley south- ward, embracing North Pond, is terminated by the smaller hills immediately encircling the town of Worcester. Farm- houses dot the hills and hill sides wherever the eye turns. Before 1725 James Knap, who had land granted to him around the north end of North Pond, sold 250 acres to Richard Temple, who built the house now owned by Alfred S. Lowell and gave it to his son Joseph, with 65 acres of land. This passed through many transfers to Joseph Daniels in 1804, and was known as the Daniels' farm; when he purchased, the number of acres had increased to 94^. He added to the amount of his land so that his widow sold 150 acres in 1839 to Ezekiel and Charles Newton, and thenceforward for thirty years it was called the Newton farm. Mr. Ezekiel Newton died a few years since at an advanced age. Mr. Lowell became the owner in 1887 and calls it "The Poplars." Richard Temple built another house, a counterpart of the first, and gave it, with 60 acres, to his son William; it is now owned by the widow of James S. Libby. This farm passed by many transfers to John Child, who sold 165 acres and a pew in the meeting house to Benjamin Thaxter of Abington, November 27, 1792. Benjamin, my grandfather, was the sixth in descent from Thomas of Hingham, England. He was born in Hingham, Mass., March 21, 1758, and married January 10, 1783, Sarah, daughter of Joshua and Hannah (Reed) Howe of Abington. When asked by one of his relatives why he went to Worcester he laughingly replied, "To escape taxes and orthodoxy." I have never heard that he escaped either. He was a successful farmer, a good man, beloved and respected. He was treasurer of the Second Parish in Worcester. After his death, which occurred, April 21, 1821, a committee of 48 the Parish, consisting of Judge Bangs, William Jennison and William Eaton, at a meeting held by adjournment August 13, 1821, reported, •" that it appears that there is a balance of $12.61 due to the estate of said Thaxter, and they recommend that said sum together with the sum of five dollars for services as such Treasurer for the year 1820 be allowed," which report was accepted. Mr. Thaxter joined to his business of farming that of surveying. Several plots of farms made by him are on file in the Registry of Deeds. A daughter Sarah, who married a son of Rev. Joseph Avery of Holden, lived to the age of eighty-seven. A son, Benjamin, a successful merchant in Boston, died September 6, 1886, at the age of ninety-eight. When the Boston, Barre and Gardner Railroad was built, he said that at the time he left home at the age of twenty-one, he should have thought of a road to the moon as soon as one through his father's farm. Now an electric road passes on the opposite side of the house. Who will deny that a hundred years hence tourists will not be conveyed by a subway under the farm, or by air ships over it to Mount Wachusett? Mr. Thaxter's farm took in the west side of Mount Ararat and at one time was considered to be one of the best farms in Worcester. It sloped to the south and had a warm and rich soil. It remained in the family nearly fifty years. In 1837 valuable water rights were purchased from the Newton Farm and from that time water flowed constantly to supply the house and barn. A great many incidents connected with this farm are among the recollections of my youthful days. My mother drove to the farm one summer day in company with a friend, taking me, a mere babe, also. On the return when going down a slight de- scent, within sight of the house, the horse fell and pitched me out of my mother's arms astride of his back. Mr. Osgood Bradley, happening along at that moment, soon put things to rights and we went on our way. That was my first lesson in horseback riding. 49 On the opposite side of the road was the farm of Elisha Smith, who had purchased land from James Knap, Robert Peibles, William Temple and others. It was retained by Mr. Smith and his descendants for about seventy years, when a portion of it came into the possession of Walter H. Davis, in whose family it was held for forty years; since then many persons have become its owners. On the eastern slope of the hills at the west lay the farm of Benjamin Whitney. This was a part of the original grant to Palmer Goulding, who sold to William Jennison in 1732; ten years later he sold one-half of ten acre rights to Elicksandie McConkey, from whom it soon passed to Benjamin Whitney, in whose family it remained more than eighty years, thence it went to Ezra Goddard, whose son Josiah lives in the house built nearly one hundred and seventy-five years ago. In the valley on the west side of the road was the little red schoolhouse of the neighborhood, in which the young people received all the schooling they ever had. I remember it distinctly and never pass the spot without thinking of it. Not far beyond was the farm of Benjamin Reed, of 200 acres, which he bought of Lemuel Saunders; in 1809 he deeded 100 acres each to his sons Samuel T. and Benjamin; the former lived at the foot of the hill, the latter at the top. Samuel T. sold his farm to Nathan Rogers, whose heirs sold to Granger Peirce. Benjamin sold his farm to Ebe- nezer Jewett in 1845 and it has remained in the family up to this time. Mr. Reed, Senr., in 1799, bought of Benjamin Whitney springs on the hill and the right to convey the water therefrom to his house. Benjamin Reed was descended from John of Dorchester, who was freeman in 1640; he removed to Braintree about that time. His son Samuel went to Mendon and in 1668 married Hopestile Holbrook. His son Deacon Ebenezer married, February 23, 1764, Mary, daughter of Ebenezer 4 50 and Abigail (Whiting) Chapin. Ebenezer moved from Milford to Worcester in 1796. • Southerly of the Reed farm was that of John Nelson, on the hill west of the road. It belonged to Richard Barnes in 1734 and from him it passed down to John Walker, and for some time it bore the name of the "Walker" farm. John became a refugee and his farm was sold, and in 1799 100 acres were deeded to John Nelson of Hopkinton. John sold subsequently to his daughters Peedy and Betsey, who sold a part to Jonathan; after that it was divided and sold to various parties. A son of John was Rev. Jonathan, the distinguished pastor at Leicester for more than fifty years, and President of the Board of Trustees of Leicester Academy. In one deed connected with the transfers of this farm a right to pass to the goat pasture is reserved. Also a bridle way was laid out from the south end of the place to Salisbury street, coming out nearly opposite the Chamberlain farmhouse. North Pond originally comprised about 30 acres; now it covers seven or eight times as much. The land which is now flowed by its waters was meadow. Much of it was embraced in the large tract of Cornelius Waldo. A part of the hill at the west of the pond was owned by James and Samuel Fisk. Mr. Waldo sold in 1747, 470 acres, a part of my great farm of 700 acres, to John Brooke of London, England. Mr. Brooke's heirs sold to various persons, the Chadicks, Samuel Brooks and others. Much later a way, called the "Joblin" road, existed between the road to Barber's and that to Holden by Robert Smith's; this was discontinued in 1834, when the present road across the south end of the pond was laid out. On the west side of the Holden road near the north end of Forest street, Thomas Mills bought land of Daniel Chaclwick; this remained in the Mills family till recently, when it was bought by Frank L. Allen. The Mills place was bounded on the southwest by the large Henchman grant of 279 acres, that extended 51 south of Salisbury street and embraced the whole of Han- cock Hill. The northern part of this grant descended to John Hancock, the southern to James Varney. The heirs of John Hancock sold 144 acres and 120 rods to Nathan Patch, February 4, 1802. Mr. Patch's executors sold to several persons; some of it was bought by my grandfather Theophilus Wheeler, who also bought other land adjacent, that constitutes the farm owned by Edwin W. Wheeler. This brings us nearly to the junction of Salisbury and Forest streets. Before proceeding further towards the town let us go to the northern end of Salisbury street near Ranks lane or Moreland street. Isaac Gardner, of whom there is no record here, sold in 1767, 177 acres to John Heath. 60 acres of this he sold to Thomas Nichols, who purchased other land of the heirs of Joseph Wiley. This property was on both sides of the road, and is the farm on which William I. Allen now lives. A large elm by the roadside near the house enhances the beauty of the surroundings. To the west of this place on the high hill James Butler received a grant of land in 1721. From this he sold in April, 1737, to Joseph Wiley 105| acres. John Heath sold to Mr. Wiley 60 acres. The heirs of Mr. Wiley deeded the farm to various persons until, in 1788, nearly 100 acres were sold to Christopher Ranks, who came from Charles- town, where he was born, to Worcester in 1775; he married three times and had five children, one of whom, John, was the executor of his estate. Christopher died in 1815; he had a brother John. The estate passed through several owners to William T. Merrifield, and is now owned by Walter A. Brigham, who has erected a spacious house on a spot from which an extensive view towards the east is obtained, including a portion of the city. The old Ranks house, a one-story structure, has been torn down recently. The next farm on the south and adjoining was that of Andrew McFarland. Peter Goulding had 125 acres set off to him, which he sold to William Jennison, who sold the 52 east half of it January 4, 1729, to Andrew McFarling, who deeded it in 1743 to his son William; he bought additional land of Daniel Gookin's heirs, Joseph Wiley and others; in 1787 he gave his son William, Jr., one-half his farm and at his death in 1805 he left to William, Jr., one-half of what he then owned. When he, William, Jr., died in 1839 he gave all his lands, 125 acres, to his daughter Sarah, the wife of Cyrus Gale of Northborough, who sold 80 acres of it to George T. Foster, the present owner. In the easterly side of the road a short distance north of Mr. Foster's house there is growing a Tupelo tree, the only one of two in the town, the other being on Chestnut street in the city. Near this tree in a corner of the pasture stood a schoolhouse in which Oliver B. Green, a wealthy citizen of Chicago, and a brother of Martin of this town, taught one winter. Miss Mary J. Mack, a teacher in one of the public schools, also taught there. The road originally went west of the present location, close to the house, and entered the road now used further south, possibly just north of Flagg street. Next to the McFarland farm came that of Thaddeus Cham- berlain, at the corner of Flagg street, of late years owned by Phylander and Sylvanus Sears; this came down by several conveyances from John Heath and Isaac Gardner. A portion of the farm on the easterly side of the road con- stituted the western side of the Henchman grant, which extended eastward nearly to Forest street. A short distance south of the farm buildings a stream of water, Beaver Brook, crosses the road; tradition says that a grist mill was erected on this stream on the right of the road, the pond being on the left or upper side. The farm of Deacon Jacob Chamberlain was closely joined to that of Thaddeus. Deacon Nathaniel Moore had a grant of land in the valley, which embraced a portion of the Marshall Flagg farm. In 1733 he gave 100 acres to his Deautiful daughter Grace, spinster. She married Richard Flagg, who deeded to Jacob Chamberlain 72 acres, 108 rods in 1742. Jacob died 53 in 1700; Ins sons John and Thaddeus were appointed administrators of his estate; they sold 120 acres to John in 1702, who in 1806 gave to his son Thomas one-half of "my home farm." John died intestate in 1813 and Benja- min Heywood, his administrator, set off a portion of the farm then remaining to Thomas, who died in 1855, leaving the farm of 75 acres. A part of this farm came from the Henchman grant. Deacon Jacob was born in Newton and came to Worcester in 1742; he was fourth in the line of descent from William of England, who was born in 1620 and died at Billerica May 31, 1706. There were three heads of families in the line by the name of Jacob. The last Jacob was deacon of the First Parish as was his son John also. John was an extensive speculator in land, his purchases being made in various parts of the town. His son Thomas is remembered as crier of the courts for many years. The farm remains in the family, principally repre- sented by Robert H., the Sheriff of the County. A modern brick dwelling has taken the place of the ancient farmhouse, which is used for storage. When I was a boy studying surveying in the high school under that excellent teacher, William E. Starr, lately deceased at the age of ninety-one, Mr. Thomas Chamberlain invited Mr. Starr to test his scholars' knowledge in the measurement of his farm, and promised to give them a dinner. The farm was surveyed, accurately too, for no poor work ever passed from under our teacher's hands; not the least pleasant part of the holiday was the bountiful farmer's dinner, to which we did full justice. The southern portion of the Henchman grant, comprising 135 acres, which James Varney inherited, was sold to Tarrant Putnam, who subsequently sold it to John Cham- berlain; he sold 60 acres to Moses N. Child in 1805 on both sides of the road west of Timothy Paine "where I now live." The executor of Mr. Child sold 85 acres to Nathaniel C. Moore in 1826. This is the place where Pliny 54 Moore and his sister live, in the house supposed to have been built in 17G3 by John Chamberlain. East of Mr. Moore's, on the south side of the road, was the farm of Benjamin N. Child. This was a part of the 450 acres which Cornelius Waldo sold to John Brooke of London, England, from his great farm of 700 acres. The attorneys of the widow of John Brooke, his executrix, sold to Timothy Paine 66^ acres, a parallelogram in shape, at the southwest corner of the tract. Timothy's heirs sold 28 acres 114 rods on the south side of the road to William Chamberlain, and from him it went, with additional pur- chases, to Warren Williams and others. 37 acres 110 rods were purchased Oct. 22, 1881, by J. Lewis Ellsworth, the present owner. Another part of the 66£ acres bought by Timothy Paine was devised to Hannah Bradish, his daughter, from whom it descended to Theophilus Wheeler and, with another small lot, constituted the "Cow Tavern" farm, now owned by the heirs of Francis P. Stowell. At the intersection of Forest street with Salisbury we have reached the western boundary of the great Walker farm, a part of the Cornelius Waldo tract. Samuel Waldo, executor of the estate of Jonathan Waldo, sold to Cornelius Waldo 700 acres September 11, 1735. This tract extended from the south end of the original North Pond to Joe Bill road, and from Mill Brook on the east to Forest street and a little beyond. As has been stated 450 acres were sold to John Brooke, 150 acres to Stephen Salisbury; the balance, with enough purchased later to make up 200 acres, was sold to William Walker May 5, 1745; this embraced the territory from West street on the east to Forest street on the west. At his death in 1760 he gave to his wife Mary the house which he built and in which he lived, together with 55 acres of land. The rest of his farm was divided amongst his children; a daughter Isabella married James Quigley, and received 23£ acres on both sides of 55 the Quigley road, or later Pratt street, now Park avenue. Another daughter, Nancy, married Joseph Brooks, and 18f acres south of the road and east of her mother's portion were given to her. Still another daughter Mary married Robert Oliver and received 18f acres, lying east of her sister Nancy's lot. William, prior to his death, sold to Timothy Paine 21f acres from the southeast corner of his farm, which descended to Gov. John Davis and from him to Harrison Bliss. John Chamberlain purchased of the heirs 100 acres, which afterwards were sold to Rev. Aaron Bancroft, who sold to Nymphas Pratt, who conveyed it to John and Jotham B. Pratt. From that time the farm has been greatly divided, and in place of corn and potato fields, mowing and pasture lands, there are now velvety lawns, parterres of flowering shrubs and handsome resi- dences. Those portions of Mr. Walker's farm which were given to his children finally were purchased by Mr. Salisbury, second. Latterly the present representative of the Salisbury family has come into possession of a part of the Bancroft farm, including Bancroft Hill. The Walker, or Bancroft house, as usually designated, in which George Bancroft the historian was born, ceased to command the respect due it, and was recently destroyed. When Mr. Walker owned this farm Salisbury's Pond was not in existence; the land now covered by its waters was a meadow through which Mill Brook flowed; the pond was created in 1834. Salisbury street was one of the early roads of the town; it was altered in June, 1777, and again in June, 1793, when it was described as the road from Holden by Reuben Pad- dock, Samuel Chaffin, Thomas Nichols, between McFarland's house and barn, Thaddeus Chamberlain, Timothy Paine to the old road leading from Elisha Smith's to Worcester. May 3, 1824, the town voted, "that the street from Abraham Lincoln's store to Broken-up-Hill untill it comes to Robert Barber's at the Guide post be called Salisbury street." Broken-up Hill is so designated in a deed of December 5, 56 1754. When a boy I used to hear it called Breakneck Hill, a corruption of the other probably. It was the hill at the summit of which was the old Bancroft house. The name had its application on one occasion at least. When a mere infant I had been at my grandfather's house for several days away from my parents. When the Sabbath came my uncle and aunt drove to town in a chaise, the usual vehicle of that time. Descending this hill the horse fell and broke some part of the carriage or harness or both. Rain was falling fast and the road was quite muddy. My uncle placed us by the side of the road under the shelter of an umbrella while he repaired the damage. The horse presented a sorry sight bedaubed with mud, and hardly presentable at the door of the meeting house. Therefore my uncle turned homewards and my grief for my mother was quieted in slumber before the old homestead was reached. Broken-up Hill and the one this side of it were both steeper than now; the summits having been cut off and the valley between them filled up several feet. In this valley there was a bridge across a brook that carried the water from a spring on the south side of the road into the brook that flowed through the meadow. The pond touched the road on both sides of the lower hill. There was a spring on the south side of the road where the Bliss house has been erected recently, under the elms on the lot; the water from this spring ran into a ditch on the south side of the road and crossed the road by a culvert and thence into the pond. Riding past there one day my father told me of a drunken man who was drowned in that ditch; he stumbled into it face downward and was suffocated in two or three inches of water. Speaking of this to a gentleman not long since he said he had seen the finding of the inquest which took place, but could not recall the date. The road was narrow and bounded on both sides by stone walls, that on the north side extending to the farmhouse, and on the south side to the Joe Bill 57 road. The ground on the sides was higher than the road. At the corner of Joe Bill road there was a small building on the line of the road used for storing farm tools, and another a short distance north of it. Several large button-ball trees were on the sides of both roads near their intersection. Joe Bill road was laid out in March, 1748, to accommodate Joseph Bill, though there had been a pathway probably over the same ground prior to that. Joshua Rice received a grant of land on the south and east of Prospect Hill, a part of which he sold to John Stearns, who sold 85 acres to Joseph Bill in 1738; he lived there thirty-two years, and then sold to John Baird, who sold to Timothy Bigelow; this afterwards became a part of the John Hammond farm, which is now covered with valuable residences. Joe Bill road in my boyhood and till within a few years was a pretty, rustic lane almost entirely overgrown with trees, shrubs and bushes. On the south side, a little west of Lancaster street, Isaac Lamb lived in a very small and poor house. He was a hard working man, who afterwards bought a farm at Greendale and died there many years ago; his sons, William M., a farmer and Thomas M., a watch- maker, both deceased, are well remembered. It seems to tne that it was unfortunate to change the name of this old road. Grove street, from Salisbury street to its intersection at Chadwick square with the road from Mr. Salisbury's to Barber's and Colonel George Moore's, was laid out in December, 1832; this road crossed the dam at the Wire Mills, built about the same time, and Salisbury's Pond was formed. In 1840 at the "Tippecanoe and Tyler too" campaign there were two small wooden houses on the east side of Grove street near the mill; one of these \v:is moved to Forest street many years afterward and remains there. Between these houses and Madam Salisbury's there were no other houses, but the whole tract east to Mill Brook was open land, and on it was erected the great 58 log cabin where thousands congregated to listen to political speeches and drink hard cider. At the fork of the roads where the Armory stands there was a large wooden house quite a distance back from the streets, in which Sheriff John S. C. Knowlton, also editor and proprietor of the Palladium,, Anthony Chase, County Treasurer for many years, General George Hobbs and others lived; this house has been moved to the west side of Lancaster street and stands there considerably altered. Highland street was laid out in September, 1832; it was one mile and 109 rods in length. The central road in front of the Court House was removed in March, 1832. JUN 13 1907 LBFe 10 EARLY ROADS THE DWELLERS THEREON THE NORTHERN PORTION OF WORCESTER.