r — ^ 595 S91 opy 1 ?>^1»^>^ ^3 _ !>• > '^ :.:<^^ _ 3, ) ^> \-> y, J) ,:> ,» *-* > . .^ 3» >> _> :» » >3^ v^ ► »> ^ LIBRARY OF^ONGRESS. | (ilp|il5^:5ei3pt|n9^t 1?0. - j Slielf->.S.?L- i UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. >3 '3>>;2» > ,^ ? > > ^:> > > > :: ^>:)>3>) Win l^-.^.>.^-, -^ 3) i)> ^ =r :>'s> > j> » ^^ ^ -. > ■ ;s» :>5.->. . :> • . ■ ► .>>:ji> > > >■ • > > > > 3:> -^ > -^ • -^ ■ :> ;» ;» -5 5:): '' ^? ■?> ^ ^> >:•' ^::2> Price, 50 Cents. Whitewood Falls, Black Hills. Rkached via Uniox Pacific Railroad and Sidney Stage Line. TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND, OR A SUMMER ON THE Union Pacific Railroad and Branches SAUNTERINGS IN THE POPULAR HEALTH, PLEASURE, AND HUNTING RESORTS OF NEBRASKA, DAKOTA, WYOMING, COLORADO, UTAH, IDAHO, OREGON, WASHINGTON AND MONTANA., WITH COMPLETE DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BL.AGK HILLS, BIG HORN, LEADVILLE AND SAN JUAN REGIONG, AKD SPECIAL ARTICLES ON STOCK RAISING, FARMING, MIN- INO, LUMBERING AND KINDRED INDUSTRIES OF THE TRANS-MISSOURI REGION. By ROBERT E. STRAHORN ("Alter Ego'')> OF THE WESTERN PRESS. SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLAi^^^rw ^ i r'iO"" ?^- C. I ) /. OMAHA: THE NEW WEST PUBLISHING COMPANY. Omaha Republican Print. 1879. INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND EDITION. Siuce the first appearance of "To The Rockies and Beyond" iu 1878, de- velopments in the wide field outlined in its pages have bordered upon the marvelous. The name Leadville has thrilled all America and claimed at- tention from lands beyond the seas, while our far Northwest, where Orient now greets Occident, beams with a life uuthought of twelve months ago. CoLjORADO, Idaho, Montana, Oregon and Washington arc the grand magnets upon our far western area to-day. Their unparalleled progress dur- ing the past year, and the constantly growing, earnest demand for intelligence concerning them is sufficient excuse for the enlargement and revision of this work. Nearly 100 fresh pages are added, special attention being called to those devoted to Leadville, Montana, and the Snake and Salmon River Regions. Reiterating a cherished desire to pleasantly introduce all classes of read- ers to the great region lying beyond the Missouri, to reliably point out the way for tens of thous ands of inquiring horaeseekers and tourists and to con- vey an idea of the glories of far west climate and scenery or the delightful experiences of mountaineering, the writer also wishes each voyageur as rich a fruition of pleasure in journeyings toward sunset as he himself enjoyed in his second "Summer on the Union Pacific Railroad and Branches." F-"7 Copyrighted 1879. By ROBERT E. STRAHORN. >• cc 2 O > « ■d a o CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Omaha and the Platte Valley— Marvelous Growth of Nebraska — The Land ol Cheap Homes "for the Million " — Hunting Along the Line of the Union Pacific — The Nation's Pasture Lands — Raising Cattle at the Simple Expense of Herding and Branding — How the " Cattle Kings " Malie their Thirty per Cent per Annum 5 CHAPTER II. Wyoming and the Black Hills — The "Wealth and Wonders of an Average Western Commonwealth — The Thriving City of Cheyenne — A Jaunt to the Northern Eldorado — The Mines, Farming Lands, Forests and Cities of the Black Hills— 14, 000, 000 in Gold in 1878 from Black Hills Bonanzas — Routes, Distances, Expenses of Living, Wages, etc. — The Big Horn Region; Its Mountains, Rivers, Hunting Grounds and Mineral Prospects. 14 CHAPTER III. Into the American Switzerland" — Wealth and Development in Colorado — The Giant Young Railway Leading Thither — Hunting and Fishing Along the Cache la Poudre — Estes Park and Long's Peak — Boulder; its Thrift, its Rich Mines and Beautiful Scenery — Golden and Clear Creek Canon — Among the Colorado Gold Mines — Over to the Silver A'elns of Georgetown — Middle Park — Denver, Southern Colorado and the San Juan Region — New Mexico 34 CHAPTER IV. Westward to Utah — Laramie Plains and Nortli Park — Mining, Wool Growing, Dairyinji and Lumbering — The Great Laramie Soda Beds and Marble Deposits — A Week's Hunt in North Park — Rawlins and Snake River Valley — The Ferris and Seminole Mines — Rock Springs Coal Mines — Green River City and the Wind River Country — Evanston — Lumbering and •'Ranching" Along Bear River — Fuel for the Trans-Missouri Region — Weber and Echo Caaons 72 CHAPTER V. Utah Territory' — Salt Lake City and the Great Dead Sea — Among the Little Cottonwood and Bingham Cafion Mines — Through American Fork Canon — Utah Lake and its Beau- tiful Valley — Southern Utah, Nevada and Arizona — The Natural Route to the Gre;it Southwest — To Great Salt Lake and the Stockton Mines — Salt Water Bathing in tin-. Heart of 1 he Rockies — America's Greatest Salt Mine and its Utilization 90 CHAPTER VI. Northern Utah, Idaho and Oregon — The Most Important Narrow Gauge Railway in the West, and the Region it Penetrates — Utah and Idaho Hot Spi-ings — A Placer Mine Occupying 400 Miles of Snake River Bars — The Salmon River Region and Idaho Salt Works — Extent, Resources and Climate of Idaho, Oregon and Wasliington Territories . 117 CHAPTER VII. Montana Territory^ — Pacts and Experiences on the Farming, Stock Raising, Mining', Lumbering, and Other Industries — Interesting Notes on Climate, Scenery, Game, Fisli, and Mineral Springs — Routes, Distances, Rates of Fare, Expenses of Living, Wages, Means of Acquiring Homes and Other Information Applicable to Wants of Capitalists, Homeseekers, or Tourists — Montana Clearly the Empire of the Great Northwest 136 CHAPTER VIII. Yellowstone National Park. — The Geysers, Lakes, Cations, Falls, Springs and other Wonders of the Nation's Pleasure Ground — Game and Fish — The Romantic Madison Valley or Henry Lake Route and Distances on the trails and roads in the Park — Some Points about Outlitting — Aboard the Palace Car in the morning, and Trout and Tea in sight of "Old Faithful" at night "iOl APPENDIX TO SECOND EDITION. Leadville the Bonanza Camp — History, Extent and Wealth of the Carbonate Belt — Marvelous Growth, Real Estate and Rents — The "Tenderfoot" of yesterday, the Mil- lionaire of to-day — Employment and Wages, Societies, Churches, Schools, Etc. — Ex- penses of Living and Routes 214 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. CHAPTER I. WEST FROM THE MISSOURI— THE GREAT PLATTE VALLEY AND THE NATION'S PASTURE LANDS. 'To the Rockies and beyond! " was our final exclamation. It didn't strike right and left like a bolt in llie clouds, because we had read and talked the matter over carefully in our quiet prairie home for months. We had taken pains to learn that this was a royal country — this western half of our continent — full of wonders and wealth, and we were just at that stage so intensely chronic in America which impelled us to go somewhere. We — my friends and I — had no money to fritter away in aimless travel. "Going west" meant a world of things to us besides our own gratification, because upon our experience depended the founding of homes and the investment of others' dollars. To sum up, we determined that this should be the great instnactive and enjoyable era of our busy lives. AVe wanted to see the broadest and richest areas of western farmlands, the vast winter and summer grazing regions, the world's finest hunting grounds. We would dive into the mysteries of the deep- est gold and silver mines, explore the most wonderful coal measures and "rough it" in the wildest forests. We would never think of "going west" without passing over the mightiest mountains, through the grandest canons, and along the largest lakes and rivers. Neither could we deny ourselves the supreme pleasures of breathing the most invigorating atmosphere, plunging into the famous hot springs, or imbibing the delicious and health-giving min- eral waters. Of course the largest and most beautiful cities, as well as the live- liest mining camps must be in our pathway, for there is where the buoyant, sinewy and thriving west beams out in greatest business venture and crystal- lizes into finest social culture. All this in one short summer! Our demands would have been less extravagant a few years ago, but in this era of railways wc stood sweltering at our rendezvous on the heated pavements of Chicago, took a forty-eight hour stretch of imagination and were whiffing ice-tempered breezes at the base of the Rocky Mountains ! Three of the finest railways in America were ready at Chicago to take us "neck and neck " to the Missouri river at Omaha. Never hesitate about deciding which you will take, reader; "go it blind " on either and you will find railroad travel over the broad prairie states a luxury. We made Omaha our final starting point on the great sea of plain because, in looking over our programme, we found there was but one route which cov- ere^l all the ground, and that we soon learned to call " The Highway of Conti- 6 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. nents' ' — the Union Pacific Railway. While whirUng over the plains and through the mountains in its luxuriant palace cars we could watch the tide of commerce of the world. The wealth of European and Asiatic countries, of Pacific's distant isles and of our own grand America, could be seen concentrated and pouring over these iron lines. Here and nowhere else could we follow "That western trail of immigration which bursts into states and empires as it moves." At Omaha was found enough to engross any visitor's attention and interest for a week, but a few hours had to suffice us. It is a fitting entry to the bound- less west — a splendid western city, where the tourist from the east gets his first refreshing glimpses of the vim and "snap," born of lively growth and com- petition, which he will encounter everywhere toward sunset. There are dozens of neble monuments to this invincible enterprise visible, to say nothing of the thousands of smaller and less noticeable ones which we know are contributing their share to make Omaha what rivals already yield her to be — the metropolis of the northwestern states and territories. Crossing the Missouri on one of the finest iron bridges in the world, we noticed, down to the right, the great smelt- ing works, which turn out more of the precious metals than aU other similar works in the United States combined, save one. Their product was something like $5,000,000 in 1877, and the beautiful bars of silver and gold there on exhi- bition add keen zest to promises of underground explorations among the glitter- ing mineral veins. A little farther up the river bank, covering thirty acres of ground, are the extensive Union Pacific Railway shops, which give employment to nearly a regiment of lusty mechanics, and turn out anything in the line of railroad equipment, from the smallest bolt to the handsomest passenger car. Just at the end of the bridge, on the left, is a large and lively distilling estab- lishment, which, for the privilege of turning out immense quantities of the "old rehable" beverage, pays a tax of over half a million dollars a year. Crowning the wooded and picturesque bluffs in plain sight ahead and commanding wide view of river and valley, are the splendid school houses — one of these costing $250,000 — and many of the most elegant residences. Then, under the shelter of the bluffs, but still high above the river, are the long rows of solid business blocks, the fine public buildings and the dozen or more church spires. The post-office and custom-house combined, the Grand Central Hotel, Union Pacific headquar- ters and many other buildings are noticeable for their size and beauty of archi- tecture. The Union Pacific building is pronounced one of the finest railway headquarter offices in the world, and the Grand Central Hotel — well, it is the largest and most elegant between Chicago and San Francisco, and almost won us to a longer sojourn by its faultless appointments. Nine railways practically terminate at Omaha, rendering her the center of a railway system which could hardly be excelled, and bringing the trade and travel of wide and productive scopes of country, north, south, east and west. Then there is the cheap steam transportation afforded by the Missouri river and her tributaries, by which over three thousand miles of water line along Ne- braska, Iowa, Dakota and Montana are made to contribute to the general pros- perity. The additional United States branch mint, which is to be located in the near future, will undoubtedly go to Omaha if unexcelled natural auxiliaries to its successful operation are the requisites. Many unanswerable arguments are submitted upon this question, but we can only notice one in addition to the above facts showing how wonderfully the city holds the key to the wealth of THE GREAT PLATTE VALLEY. T half a dozen states and territories. This item is simply that Omaha has always been the gateway through which two-thirds of the entire mineral yield of the United States has passed. Base bullion and ore of the value of $10,000,000 was shipped hither from the western mines as freight over the Union Pacific Railway in 1877, while gold and silver bullion and coin to the amount of over $50,000,000 reached this point by Union Pacific Express during the same period. It therefore appears that Omaha handled $60,000,000 of the total amount of $98,000,000 of gold and silver produced in the United States in 1877. We could see nothing accidental about this. "We had entered the great central belt of wealth, industry and population; the greatest of all railways had appropriated the field, and by making this its outlet had laid the founda- tion for enterprises which, even in this fast age, are scarcely foreshadowed. To indicate the scope of business at Omaha we may add that 2,000,000 bush- els of grain and 95,500 head of cattle were received during 1877. Over $38,- 000,000 of exchange were sold by the banks during the same period, and $800,- 000 were invested in improvements , For fear some reader may think us a little extravagant in our statement that we could watch the commerce of nations pouring through this outlet over the Union Pacific Railway, we will mention the simple items of silk and tea shipments from China and Japan. We could see train loads of tea arrive here from the "Flowery Kingdom," via the Pacific Ocean and San Francisco, and importations of silk by the car load. Nearly 1,000 cars of tea were received during 1877, direct from celestial "first hands." Up the Platte Vallei/. -^E&ger for the start and yet unsatisfied with such a, mere gUmpse of Omaha, we took quarters in the luxuriant palace cars of the- Union Pacific and sped westward. The train was long, well filled, and rolled over the bands of steel with the power and seeming pride of a very monarch of pioneers. Getting acquainted with fellow passengers we found here an anxious home-seeker, tired of the worn-out soils, enervating atmosphere and "barren opportunities" of his crowded native state, and determined on planting himself anew in the broader, more attractive fields of the bright young west; there a> pale and nervous health- seeker, full of doubt and hope combined, who evidently needed Colorado sunshine and the mountain air; yonder a Wyoming cattle dealer, satisfied with the world and himself, because he had made his pile on the- steer of the period ; and then here an ex-surveyor-general of Nebraska, whose judgment on western resources is said to be next to faultless and who was taking- large quartz mills into the Black Hills, where he declares there are millions of wealth in sight. We also had on board a representative of the government on his way to China — for, be it remembered, this was the "Highway of Nations"; Californians returning to their beautiful "Golden Gate"; pleasure- seekers going^ to lead aimless lives at the fashionable Colorado watering places, or, mayhap, intending to do some real genuine "roughing" among the mountains and in the forests, and, among the dozens of others, army officers on their way to the frontier to do their thankless duty of making the original owners of the country believe they don't own anything. * Nebraska and the Platte Valley have been wonderfully " written up" since the advent of railroads, and we make no extensive notes where the ground has already been so thoroughly reviewed. Passing along, however, we obtained some facts concerning resources and recent progress. Eleven years ago these beau- tiful valley landscapes — in which thousands of productive farms, fine farm- 8 TO THE llOCKIES AND BKYOND. houses, blossoming orchards and thriving cities are now such grateful features — were smooth meadows and prairie uplands, with only here and there the stage station in sight. The change has been so rapid that the eleven years seemed stretched to fifty. In the whole of Nebraska there were only 59,000 people. The grand stimulus — the Union Pacific Eailway — together with wonderful fer- tility of soil and other matchless resources, have swelled this little division into an army of 300,000 strong. In 1870 the population was 123,000; in 1873, 250,000, and from this up to the splendid body of producers of to-day. From the broad acres, which were scarcely "scratched" a dozen years ago, and where the Indian and buffalo were proud possessors, 12,000,000 bushels of wheat were produced in 1877, together with hundreds of tons of beef. It is estimated that this one great valley alone is capable of sustaining 3,000,000 of people. At this late day it is hardly necessary to tell of the fine crops of wheat, oats, corn, rye, barley and vegetables of every nature which are produced, or of the luscious fruits. Of the latter, one hundred different varieties from one county were on exhibition at Omaha for several weeks, and it is a matter of common knowledge that the American Poniological Society has awarded Nebraska the first premium over all states in the land for the largest and best display of fruits. Wheat yields as high as thirty bushels per acre and averages about twenty. No stumps or stones interfere with easy cultivation, grass grows luxuriantly enough for hay everywhere, if not molested, and the mowing machine will run for miles without encountering an obstruction. We could easily see that home- making here would be child's play compared with the,^same task in the back- woods or among the rocky uplands of the older states. Hundreds of thou- sands will yet find choice homesteads on the lands of the Union Pacific Rail- way, which border the track, and on tracts still held by the government. Lands can be obtained at prices ranging from $2 to $10 per acre, on long time, if desired, so that the frugal and industrious farmer, with a few hun- dred dollars to make needed improvements, can easily pay for his home from the products of the rich valley soil. Prospective settlers are assisted by the company in the way of cheap exploring tickets and colonists get the advantage of reduced freight rates. Very valuable information, covering this whole ground, is issued gratuitously to all by the Land Commissioner of the Union Pacific Rail- way, Omaha. Fine Hunihuj. — While speeding along the Platte, the stream which kept us pleasant company for many miles, we were hourly tempted to forsake our iron trail by the near sight of different kinds of game. On the broad bosom of the river legions of v/ild geese and other water fowl find their coveted abiding place, and the hu nter would be worse than novice who could not bag his dozens within sight of the track almost any day in spring or fall. The Elk Horn, Loup Fork, Wood river. Shell creek and other tributaries of the Platte in eastern and cen- tral Nebraska are little behind the parent stream in these strong attractions for the sportsman. Then, on the alternating grassy prairies and well-tilled fields, we frightened up lar*e flocks of prairie chickens, and as we crossed the beautiful Elkhorn river, twenty-eight miles from Omaha, were told that the wooded banks there are the resorts for hundreds of coveys of quail. The deer still ven- tures within a dozen miles of Omaha, among the timbered bluffs bordering the river, but to enjoy first-class shooting for such noble game we strike out among the timbered ravines along the Platte and Loup, all the way from fifty to three THE GllEAI PLATTE VALLEY. • 9 hundred miles westward. Buffalo, elk and antelope can easily be reached from many different points in the Platte valley. We kindled smouldering embers of " buck fever" in the hearts of numerous passengers and proved our faulty aim by often firing at bands of the latter from the platform of our Pullman. For geese or chickens we learned that we should get off at North Bend, 61 miles; Schuyler, 75 miles; Columbus, 91 miles; or Clark's, 120 miles from Omaha; not because we couldn't find them in great plenty at almost every station, but because hotel accommodations are better at those places. Jack- son, 99 miles; Kearney Junction, 195 miles; and North Platte, 291 miles from Omaha, are all favorite points of rendezvous for hunters of large game. Game is shipped by the wagon load from a number of the above places to Omaha and farther east. By camping out at Cozad, 245 miles from Omaha, our friends have found sport which will furnish a topic for winter-night talk for years to come. Buffalo, elk, antelope, deer, wild turkeys, geese, ducks and other wild fowl are here found in great abundance. South- ward from 50 to 75 miles are the great buffalo ranges of the Republican Valley, where some of the most noted American and European Nimrods are distinguish- ing themselves every season. Board at these points ranges in price from $1.50 to $3 per day. Where camping out is necessary, team and guide, $4 to $6 per day. THE GREAT WINTER GRAZING REGION. At Grand Island, one hundred and fifty-four miles west of Omaha, we fairly entered the great grazing belt of the continent — that which affords sure sustenance for stock and a fair degree of safety without shelter the year round. We soon saw large herds of sleek cattle feeding upori this natural pasturage on every hand, and often mingling with bands of antelope and other game. From this west to the Pacific ocean, north into the British Possessions and to the southernmost limit of the continent, cattle graze and fatten summer and winter, needing no more attention to assure their growth and safety than the buffalo. Nearly all readers must understand that the grasses west of here cure where they grow, retaining all their wonderfully nutritious elements, and that different herbs unknown in the east also afford a perfect winter diet. Fur- ther, that the snows ai-e light and diy, ever shifting before the prairie winds, and that sheltered and wooded valleys are conveniently interspersed, affording all the protection that cattle have ever seemed to need. It is readily seen, there- fore, that in all this vast territory must be thousands upon thousands of oppor- tunities for men to produce beef, after the nucleus for a herd is purchased, at the simple outlay of herding and branding. It is demonstrated by hundreds of reliable stockmen that the loss from all causes vsill not exceed two per cent of the entire herd per annum. Hotv the Business is Carried on. — This industry is one in which we have always felt the liveliest interest and one well worthy of elaboration here. A quite popular and profitable mode of handling cattle is that in which breeding is given little attention and buying and selling steers season after season takes the preference.* Two and three-year-old steers are purchased in Texas in the * Facts and figures here given and in relation to Wyoming are partially adapted from a previous work of the writer, " Wyoming^ Black Hills and Big Horn Regions:' 250 pages, Robt. E. Strahorn, publisher, Cheyenne, Wyoming. 10 TO THE ROCKIES A.ND BEYOND. early summer at say $12 and $16 per head delivered on the line of the Union Pacific. With them are often purchased a few heifers and cows, which, upon being located on the range, are kept as a nucleus to assist in holding the strange animals bought each year within the limits of the range. A desirable ranch site is chosen, and as a rule the improvements made are much less expensive than those on regular breeding ranches. The cattle are kept upon these rich cured grasses during the winter, and during the summer following (one year from the date of their entry) the best three and four-year-olds ai-e sold to local dealers or are consigned to eastern commission men. These well-conditioned Texans sell at an average of $28 per head at any of the stations, leaving a profit of about $10 per head. The few not fit for sale are left with the nucleus already referred to and held over for another season. The profits are at once reinvested in the manner first described, and the buying, pasturing and selling thus con- tinued year after year. For parties who do not desire to continue in the indus- tiy more than a few years, this plan presents the strong inducement of not requiring so much preparation and expense in starting; while the rather " gypsy " fashion of conducting the enterprise admits of the settlement and termination of it without inconvenience at almost any time. However, the breeding of cattle on this vast free range is as sure and probably as short a road to wealth as is offered by any legitimate enterprise under the sun. Texas yearlings, either sex, can be bought at almost any railroad point here at $7.50 per head; two-year-olds, $12; cows, $13. A good ranch site, with necessaiy buildings and corrals, located within two days' drive of the rail- road, can be secured for $1,500. First-class herders (and others are dear at any price) can be readily obtained at an average of $32.50 per month and board. Very close calculations, made by several competent informers, make the total expenses of keepmg cattle each year, after the necessary permanent ranch im- provements have been made, as follows: In herds of 1,000, per head, $1.75; in herds of 5,000, $1.40; in herds of 10,000, $1. It is also reUably stated that such stock growers as J. W. Iliff, who graze over 25,000 head, figure their expenses down to Irom fifty to sixty cents per head per annum. Think of the average cattle man raising a steer and putting him on the market, a three-year-old, at a total expense of four dollars and fifty cents. Ten thousand dollars is considered a fair sum to start with in breeding cattle. We had access to the accounts of a thoroughly reliable breeder whose books exhibited an investment of $15,000, covering a period of only five years. He purchased 1,000 Texas cows and the necessary number of short-horn sires. Sales of steers were only made the last two years, and the amounts realized were not reinvested. The closing of the account revealed a profit of $68,000 for the five years' operations. This plan can only be appreciated and its grand possibilities realized by its being followed from five to ten years, and by the introduction of better blood into the herd. Early in the summer of each year the great " round-ups " occur. All herd- ers, and frequently owners of stock, gather together in certain localities, and, vdth the most experienced and skillful stockmen for leaders, inaugurate a short season of the herdsmen's wildest revelry. Mounted upon their best ponies, the herders swiftly scatter out across the range, gathering in every animal, and finally concentrating the property of perhaps a dozen prominent stock growers in one immense, excited herd. Passing near the ranches of respective owner?, the animals are halted in a convenient location, and part of the cow-boys hold Spearfish Falls, Black Hills. Reached via Union Pacific R. R. and Sidney Stage Line. 12 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. the mass while others ride through it, single out the " brand, " or animal, belong- ing to the adjacent range or ranch, and separate it from the main body of cattle until none of that dpscription are to be found. Moving along to the next man's range, the scene is lepeated, and so continued until the cattle are divided. Then young stock is branded, marketable stock sometimes disposed of, and the cattle are again allowed their freedom. Five or ten thousand head are thus frequently gathered together, and during the round-up season men " camp out," wagons following the herd with provisions, blankets, etc. Wonderful Profits. — A steady profit of twenty-five per cent per annum is really a common result. Forty and fifty per cent have been realized, but the writer who lays down such figures as an average is very liable to get his reputa- tion involved. It is not uncommon for experienced stockmen, who know how to utilize every advantage, and to guard against nearly all discouragements, to do business for a time on capital borrowed at two per cent per month, and to make a good margin on the investment. The writer has in mind a gentleman whose large herds roam in southern Wyoming, who for five years has made the very handsome profit of forty per cent per annum. He has been especially judicious in his purchases and sales, exercised great cai-e and judgment in the selection of a range, and in his system of ranch improvements, and has been so fortunate as to secure some of the best men on the plains to carry out the practical workings of his business. Constant supervision and study upon the part of the owner of stock is a grand point. Room for Tliousands. — The home and foreign market constantly grows stronger. The ratio of increase in population in America is far in excess of the increase in our supply of beef and mutton, and the exports of beef, mutton and live stock to Europe have increased in value from less than $2,000,000 in 1876 to $14,000,000 in 1877. That this western country can produce the beef, mutton and wool for all America, as well as for millions in the old world, is be- coming an admitted fact, visionary as it would have seemed ten years ago. In this connection is a point generally overlooked. We should remember what myriads of graminivorous animals have fed upon these native grasses, and how slowly our herds are increasing in pi'oportion to their decrease. Millions of buf- falo, elk, antelope and deer have for centuries fattened on these same broad acres, and now, before the "march of empire," are steadily vanishing from the carpets of nutritious grasses. It is estimated by the most competent authority that over 15,000,000 buffalo alone have been killed on the western plains since 1870, the slaughter having become so fearful that legislation is invoked to pre- vent it. Even this vast herd of buflfalo, which could make no perceptible im- pression on the boundless pasture lands, has not yet been half replaced by domes- tic flocks and herds. The numbers of cattle and sheep in the States and Terri- tories directly tributary to the Union Pacific Railway are placed as follows: SHEEP. CATTLE. Nebraska 125.000 375,000 Colorado 800,000 450.000 Wyommg 100,000 175,000 Utah 350,000 290,000 Montana 150,000 250,000 Totals 1,525,000 1,540,000 THE GREAT PLA.TTE VALLEY. " 13 * While these figtires show the progress made under great discouragements in less than twenty years, and are very gratifying, they also open our eyes to the fact that the industry has but really commenced, that the field cannot be thor- oughly utilized for many years, and that until it is utilized golden opportunities are everywhere open for the investment of small or large capital. Julesburg and Cheyenne are the largest cattle shipping points, while Ogallala, Pine Bluffs, Sidney and North Platte, in Nebraska, are all noted for this line of business. There were about 1,000 car loads, or 20,000 head, shipped during 1877 from each of the two points first named. The business has developed won- derfully in the past five years, shipments showing a steady and rapid increase. As already stated, the total cattle shipments for the year eastward, over the Union Pacific, were about 95,000 head. Of this number one dealer, J. W. Iliff, has marketed 15,000, receiving at an average $35 per head. Mr. Iliff is justly called the western "cattle king," for he owns over 50,000 head, and his range is 150 mUes long by half as many wide. There are many others who own from 5,000 to 20,000 head of cattle, not one of which ever feeds a pound of grain or hay except to working stock. Verily, visions of perennial pastures, marketable steers and plethoric purses have followed us to the end of our journey — yea, untU we are prone to sell out the unproductive old possessions '"back east," go to the western prairies and pro- duce that for which the world pays its surest and greatest tribute — bread and beef. However, if we do all this, before we ever bridle the frisky Texas steer we will serve a twelvemonths' apprenticeship with some older hand. This busi- ness, like all others, requires careful study and will not run itself. Sidney — 414 mUes from Omaha, and near the western edge of Nebraska, has attained considerable importance as a point of outfitting and departure for the Black Hills gold fields. It is a lively, thriving place of about 1,000 inhabitants, possessing two of the best hotels in the state outside of Omaha, large outfitting and forwarding houses, and other necessary auxilaries to the Black Hills trade. One firm of freighters shipped two and a half million pounds of goods to the Hills in 1877, while smaller firms swelled the total to about 4,000,000 pounds. Deadwood is said to be 267 miles distant. The roads are first-class, lined with ranches and stopping places, and passing one military post. Camp Robinson, en route. Fare to Deadwood, .$30. Fine Concord coaches, carrying mails and express, leave daily, and land passengers at Deadwood in about fifty hours. Good antelope hunting can always be had within a few miles of Sidney. Among other aspirations of the town is its confidence in being made the southern ter- minus of the proposed Union Pacific and Black Hills Railway. Our trip to the northern Eldorado was by way of Cheyenne, and we necessarily make extended observations upon the region in pages following. Board in Sidney $2 and $4 per day in the two leading hotels. 14 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. CHAPTER II. WYOMING AND THE BLACK HILLS — ROUTES TO THE NORTHERN ELDORADO — GOLD YIELD, ETC. Soon after leaving Sidney the railroad enters the young and thriving terri- tory of Wyoming. It covers an area of nearly 100,000 square miles, and, as we learn after thousands of miles of horseback travel -within its limits, possesses a variety of resources rarely centered within the boundaries of one commonwealth. Eorest and plain, mountain and valley, water-course and upland, unite to furnish the most accessible field for the speedy creation of a large and prosperous state. The grazing area proper aggregates 55,000 square miles, while much of the mountain surface, omitted in this estimate, is thickly carpeted during summer and faU with the most succulent and nutritious grasses. That portion suscepti- ble of cultivation comprises some 15,000 square miles of bottom and uplands. The timber area is very extensive, covering nearly one third of the territorj', and in coal Wyoming is the richest of all states or territories. In the 40,000 square miles of mountain area are vast deposits of gold and silver bearing ores, iron, copper, etc. Eastern readers may not readily realize the extent of all this latent wealth in an average western commonwealth, and we will indulge in a few comparisons. Wyoming's graeing area is greater than the entire area of Kentucky, a state which in 1870, owned nearly 2,000,000 head of sheep and cattle, besides over 1,000,000 head of other Uve stock. The agricultural area here of virgin and fer- tile soil is greater than that of the states of Massachusetts and Connecticut com- bined, which, on their artificially fertihzed soil, produce an average of 5,000,000 bushels of grain annually. Wyoming's forests cover more territory than those of the great lumbering state of Michigan, whose product in tliis line reaches a value of $40,000,000 per annum. And her surface underlaid with strata after strata of coal exceeds that of the coal lands of Pennsylvania, whose yield in coal reaches $50,000,000 or more annually. The population is estimated at only 28,- 000, while the valuation is placed at about $11,000,000. There are three rail- ways, aggregating a length of over 500 mUes, and six telegraph lines, aggregat- ing a length of 1,500 miles. Development, in every field, has always been re- tarded by depredations of the savages. These have until recently occupied the finest section of the ten-itory; but now, through the well directed efforts of Gen- eral Crook and his brother officers and men, the citizens have better prospects for permanent peace. Wyoming is the huntsman's and angler's paradise. On her plains the buf- falo and antelope find an agreeable, all-the-year home; in her mountains the elk, deer mountain sheep, bear and mountain lion abound; and in her thousand crystal streams and lakes the gamiest and most delicate of all fish, the mountain trout, are always ready for the bait. Sage-hens, grouse and rabbits are found almost everywhere, while geese, ducks and wild fowl are native to nearly all the lakes and watercourses. The settler has no trouble in providing himself with the best wild meats the year round, and indeed often makes a good living by WYOMING AND THE BLACK HILLS. 15 hunting game for local markets. From the moment the tourist enters the terri- tory until he departs, his bill of fare teems with these riches of forest, plain and river. Fur-bearing animals of almost every description are also taken by the hundreds of trappers who inhabit the frontier, and the number of beavers and wolves especially, which are annually trapped for their skins, is enormous. A day's ride from almost any station will take the Nimrod into hunting grounds of the best class. The territory affords a rich field for the scientist. The most wonderful petri- factions and fossils which are among public and private collections in the East have been found here. Such natural curiosities as the garnet, topaz, jasper, agate, chalcedony, and rare crystallizations, are found in different sections. Min- eral springs, fine scenery and sunny skies are not wanting to attract the health and pleasure seeker. The nation's own pleasure ground, the Yellowstone Na- tional Park, occupies the northwestern corner of the ter;itory, and is in itself an attraction which must in the near future entice many hither. Of its wonders we shall say more in future pages. Chei/enne.^51Q miles west of Omaha, at an altitude of 6,041 feet above the sea, is Wyoming's bustling metropolis and capital city, Cheyenne. So far Chey- enne is much in the lead of all rivals as an outlet and supply point for the vast northwest, and no territorial city hereabouts can approach her for real, down- right enterprise, sagacious business management, or spirit of permanency. Three railways center here — Union Pacific, Colorado Central and Denver Pacific — and the energetic business men are doing their utmost to secure the coveted northern road leading either to the Black Hills or Montana, or, by double termini, con- trolling the trade of both. Already the heavy wholesale houses here are secur- ing much of the northern and western trade which originally went to the cities of the East, and with their constantly enlarging facilities and liberal spirit this important index of prosperity still furnishes the brightest possible outlook. A feature always refreshing and pleasing to the new comer here is the won- derful thrift, bustle, and unfaltering courage which is everywhere apparent. From the peanut vender on the street corner to the wholesale merchant we traced this same nerve, which in the west is said to "laugh at impossibilities." Of course we caught the infection, and were soon ready to embark in any number of prodigious enterprises. Then here we received our first really unmistakable blast of the mining atmosphere, which comes down strong and fresh from the Black Hills. Bronzed and enthusiastic miners are constantly arriving with gUt- tering specimens from their "finds," while new seekers for treasure are bound northward on every coach, or are seen leaving by every other conceivable means of transportation. The bank windows and counters are always lined with tempt- ing displays of yellow nuggets, huge retorts of gold from the Black Hills sriamp mills, or fine dust from the rich gulches of that famous northland. Great trains of " prairie schooners " crowd around the forwarding houses, or are seen pulling out with stamp mills, other mining machinery, and miscellaneous supplies. Numerous Cheyenne citizens own stock in the mines, and quite a number have obtained property which pays very handsome dividends. Cheyenne has a population of 4,500, is becoming quite solidly built, and exhibits as fine residences, public buildings and improvements generally, as any city on the Union Pacific, west of Omaha. The taxable wealth is about $2,500,- 000, and improvements for the past two years have cost $700,000. Indicating 16 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. the extent of business are the statements that over 80,000,000 pounds of freight were received here in ISi'G, and $,50,000 received during the same year at the railroad ticket office. The two banks sold exchange during 1877 to the amount of $4,350,000, and bought $1,200,000 worth of Black Hills gold dust. The three leading hotels registered 10,800 arrivals during 1877, and a dozen smaller houses probably did as much more. About 4,000,000 pounds of freight were forwarded from here to the Black Hills during the same year. During the six months end- ing June 30, 1877, the Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage Line — which is a model of its kind — forwarded over 3,000 passengers and 6,000 express packages to the Hills. This company has nearly $200,000 invested in Concord coaches, fine stock, stage stations, etc. Hero the Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific Railway turns south- ward through the rich agricultural and mining districts of Colorado. Pullman palace cars run direct from Omaha to Denver, so that no trouble or delay is ex- perienced in reaching Colorado's capital. Hotels at Cheyenne — the Inter-Ocean, Railroad, and Dyer's — are not to be excelled in any city of twice the size. Rates are from $3 to $4 per day The city is prolific in smaller and very comfortable houses, however, where the economically inclined can board at from $6.50 to $10 per week. Livery is cheap — from $4 to $7 per day; saddle ponies, $2. Rents for five and six room cottages are $30 to $35 per month. Living expenses generally about 30 per cent higher than at points east of the Mississippi. Cheyenne has always been a good point for mechanics. Wages average about as follows: carpenters, $2.75 per day; bricklayers, $4; plasterers, $3; salesmen, $75 to $125 per month; laborers $25 per month. and board. Those who desire to purchase their own teams for the transportation of supplies northward, can procure outfits to good advantage here, and supplies of every nature are always found in large stocks. The city has been a rendezvous for parties going to and returning from northern regions so long that its merchants have made a careful study of this branch. Following are prices of leading items which go to make up an outfit for the miner: Team of two hordes $100 to $350 Team of two mules 20U " 300 Oxen, per yoke 80 " 100 Saddle horse 40 " 75 Saddle mule 40 " 60 Pack horse 40 " 60 Pack mule 40" 50 Two-horse wagon 100 " 125 Four-horse wagon 125 " 150 Tent 25" 40 Breech-loading riilc 35 " 50 Blankets, per pair 5 " 8 Flour per sack, $3 00 to $4 50 Bacon per lb., 15 " 16 Syrup per gal., 75 " 125 Coffee, Rio per lb., 26 " 30 Sugar " 121^'- 15 Tea. " 60 " 150 Baking powders " 45 " 50 Beans " 6 " 7 Grain — corn per cwt., 190 "2 00 oats " 2 50 " 2 60 WYOMING AND THK BLACK HILLS. 17 THE BLACK HILLS. Enough time has elapsed since the discovery of gold in the Black Hills to thoroughly establish two very important facts : First, that deposits of both gold and sUver of extraordinary richness and extent are there found; and, second, that the only really practicable routes to the Eldorado lead from the Union Pa- cific Railroad at the south. The road from Cheyenne passes northward through the best settled portions of Wyoming, where for years the finest herds have roamed, and where many occupied homesteads will compare favorably for the value and style of their improvements with those of any western state. The only line'of telegraph to Deadwood is from here, and as before stated, the daily stage line is simply perfect. Freighting has here been rendered a mammoth as well as systematic business. There are over twenty large and reliable firms, running 200 wagons, engaged in the business. Then, counting in smaller firms, we find a total of 400 wagons, giving employment to as many men, and being able to easily move 2,000,000 pounds of freight at one loading. Freight rates to Deadwood are from $3 to $5 per hundred pounds, the price first named being the lowest for ox-team freights, and the higher price being the average for fast horses and mule trains. Below is a table of distances over the Cheyenne route. The measurements were made by odometer by Captain Stanton, Chief Engineer Department of the Platte : From Cheyenne to Miles. Horse Creek 25.66 Phillip's, Chugwater Creek 47.86 Owen's, Chug Spring 66.13 Fort Laramie 88.28 Government Farm 103.22 Raw Hide Butte 1 16.50 Niobrara River 138.07 Hat Creek 147.80 Lance Creek 176.54 Cheyenne River 196.62 Beaver Creek 220.86 Cold Spring -. 243.61 Whitewood 263.79 Deadwood Postpffice 266.19 The highest altitude on the route is 6,509 fee:t. This observation is taken from an extreme summit in the Black Hills, a short distance from Spring Canon, and about 230 miles from Cheyenne. The altitude of Deadwood is 4,640 feet. Fare, Cheyenne to Deadwood, $30. We found eating stations and comfortable frontier hotels strung thickly along the entire route, and obtained tip-top meals at from fifty cents to one dollar each. Pending the construction of the Black Hills branch of the Union Pacific Railway one must go by coach or private conveyance, and let us here remark that a forty-eight hour coach ride cannot be made more comfortably on any line in the country than on this one between Cheyenne and Deadwood. Fort Laramie, around which cluster thousands of interesting points of frontier history, is passed 88 miles north of Cheyenne. A few miles further on the route crosses the North Platte by a splendid iron bndge. Niobrara River, Hat Creek, Lance Creek, Cheyenne River and Beaver Creek are all crossed in rapid succession. Fairly entering the hills at Jenny's Stockade, about 50 miles from Deadwood, the road passes through the most attractive portions, and at diiFerent points commands 2 18 TO THE ROCKIES AXD BEYOND. views of Inyan Kara, Terry's, Harney's, and other noted peaks. The prettiest parks — features in which the Black Hills excel — the most extensive valleys, and the best forests all border the line. Beaver Creek Valley and its surroundings are especially prolific in beautiful landscapes, and present fitting welcome to the traveler from the south who enters the gold region by this route. We entered Deadwood in September, when the narrow streets and muddy gulches were fairly bounding with the life and effort incident to preparations for the winter. Here was a mountain-crowded city of five or six thousand inhabitants, extending several miles up two narrow defiles, intruding upon other similar cities, and making as much fuss and bluster as eastern towns of a century's growth. There were log cabins and frame, in every conceivable attitude, tents on the hillsides, and solidly buUt business blocks along the narrow thoroughfares in the gulches, and the hills were fairly ringing with the clang of the hammer and saw on the dozens of new structures going up. Two large saw-mills were running night and day within the city limits, and the lumber was being put into buildings as fast as it left the saws. The improvements on the ground were esti- mated to have cost over one million dollars. The din of dozens of stamp mills reminded one of the old districts of Colorado, and the business done by over two hundred shops and mercantile houses was simply marvelous. Three daily newspapers, three banking houses, and some thirty hotels and eating houses were here crowded with business, where two years ago the amiable Sioux was reading his title clear and swearing he would have $80,000,000 for the country or die in the last ditch. Two or three variety theatres and one furnishing the legitimate drama were crowded nightly. The veteran actor, Jack Langrishe, was running the place of amusement last referred to. When business grew dull he wielded a graceful editorial quill on the Pioneer, and when it grew duller, hi winter, he went down into the gulch, boiled water to thaw out tlie frozen grounti, and made good " pay " from his claim. Readers can gain an idea of the wonderful business developed in so short a time here in the heart of the northern wilds from the statement that one bank was doing a busmess of from $25,000 to $75,000 per day in gold dust and tx- change, and a hotel had fed as many as 1,000 people inside of twenty-four houis. Single firms were selling goods to the amount of seven to ten thousand dollars per month. These, of course, were Deadwood's flush days, but the business lias really not lessened — it has only been divided among larger numbers of trai'es- men there and in the string of mining camps up and down the gulches. Adjoining Deadwood above are Gayville and Central City, where most o+ the richest quartz mines and many of the stamp mills are located. The^ towns swell the population some three or four thousand more, and are perfect li ives of mining industry. The din of mills is unceasing and at places almost deafen- ing, and hundreds of miners find employment in getting out the rich quarl z on the hillsides or in delving for the glittering treasure in the creek beds Im^ow. Then, dependent upon this great mining interest, are blocks upon blocks of little shops and stores, or more pretentious business houses, with an allopathic sprink- ling of saloons. Speaking of saloons leads us to think of the continual surprise aftorded us by the condition of society. Here, in the heart of an utter wilderness, but two years before the jealously guarded rendezvous of the most powerful and warlike tribes of Indians on the continent, were thousands of people. {Illllfillplll if" 20 TO THE ROCKIES AJS'D BEYOXD. who had rushed in from every quarter, under every circumstance and with habits as varied as the leaves on the trees. There was a degree of frenzy and abandon about their coming that presaged anything but order, and formed fruitful subject for sensational writers everywhere — the latter prophesying all sorts of evils, and, indeed, often manufacturing accounts of them from whole cloth. But a common intei-est banded these hardy and generous spirits together. In nearly all camps an organization was eiiected and stringent regulations adopted as soon as claims were staked off. If a black sheep did appear he was unceremoniously drummed out, and such examples did not often require repetition. The privileges arising through a code of miner's laws were considered sacred rights which were as universally respected as are local laws anywhere in our land. Thus disputes were as a rule amicably settled. We could walk into gulch claims that, for aught we knew, were as rich as California's best, and would find only the absent miner's pick and shovel in the prospect holes to hold the claims. Walking into a new camp here in the earliest days, upon the arrival of a mail, and inquiring whether there was anything for yourself, the general result would be: "Look in that cracker-box over there; it's got all the mail for the camp." Sure enough, every man of them would dive into that box, among hundreds of letters, sort them all over and honestly pick out his own. We have also always remarked upon another point, that we would sooner risk the chances of universal hearty welcome and unstinted hospitality in the rude huts of the miners than in a similar number of prosperous homes any- where in the "States." From the man who was cleaning up $500 in glittering dust per day to he who had as yet failed to make his simple " grub-stake " of flour and bacon, we met with the same unvaiying kindness. Deadwood and other towns already have good churches and schools, secret and other societies, and large circles of as intelligent and cultivated families as can be found anywhere. Why, all know that this little army of pioneers are already knocking loudly at the doors of the national capitol for new ter- ritorial government, that railroads are heading hither, that the telegraph and three or four lines of daily mail have enlivened the wilds for a year, and that a stream of the precious metals is pouring southward and eastward over the Union Pacific that even astonishes "the natives." But we found other things which we believe are not so familiar to the average reader. A chain of thriving settlements extends from the beautiful Belle Fourche river at the extreme north to the South Cheyenne, at the southern edge of the Hills. In a year these ener- getic and unfaltering pioneers have set hundreds of stamps to work crushing the royal metal from the mountains of rock — and all of this ponderous machi- nery they have hauled from two to three hundred miles by wagon. They have started flumes and hydraulic mining enterprises on a scale with some of the great developments of the Pacific coast and are just commencing to reap the benefits. In a year many of the choicest little valleys in the wide west have here been made to yield bountifully to the agriculturist, and many miles of unexcelled pasturage have been covered with flocks and herds. Thousands of acres of forests have been turned to rough and dressed lumber, by machinery also hauled several hundred miles, coal mines have been opened, smelting enterprises started, oil wells made to furnish lubricating oils for the mills, local railway and street railway companies incorporated, and hundreds of other enterprises clustered among the romantic valleys or in the pineries — all of these things have been accomplished in this new northland under the very guns of hostile raiders. WYOMING AND THE BLACK HILLS. 21 If all of these things have been brought about amid dangers seen and felt, and those more dreaded unseen, what may we not expect of the Eldorado as it bounds forward under the banner of peace? But let us get to " bottom facts " and figures, and see how the difierent industries are founded and developed. Mining. — Everybody knows that the gold hunting furore was the great primary cause of the peopling of this rich district, which otherwise would have remained a howling wilderness for centuries, and that the same glittering incen- tive is resulting in the settlement of the vast Big Horn and Yellowstone regions. The mining interest, therefore, comes in for the largest share of attention, and our visit of a week or more was largely taken up in walks or rides among the gulches and quartz mills. The mineral belt proper of the Black Hills extends about sixty miles north and south and is from three to ten miles wide. Gold, silver, copper and iron have been found in different formations. Bituminous coal of an excellent quality is found on the Redwater, 25 miles from Deadwood, and such kindred resources as cinnabar, mica, gypsum and slate are found m various localities. Gulch or placer mines are found on nearly all streams in the Hills. The richest of these have thus far been found in the vicinity of Deadwood and have been extensively worked for two seasons, yielding their millions in fine dust and nuggets. These extremely rich deposits were rather limited in extent and are rapidly becoming exhausted, but hundreds of acres of deep "gravel " and " hill" diggings are found at different points on this great mining belt which are scarcely touched. The latter have been well prospected, and those on Spring, French, Rapid and lower Whitewood creeks, especially, are known to contain millions of dollars' worth of the shining metal. The scarcity of water and other natural obstacles have rendered the investment of large amounts of capital ab- solutely necessary in these localities and have prevented a yield while the smaller and richer gulches were turning out their thousands with little outlay. Great ditch, flume and hydraulic enterprises have been inaugurated on most of the extensive placers, and the season of 1878 will see most of the large claims yielding abundantly. Gulch claims on Deadwood creek have yielded all the way from $50,000 to $200,000 each, and during the first season — 1876 — $1,500,000 were taken out of the different gulches near Deadwood. Gold of eveiy degree of fineness is encountered and sells at all prices from $16 up to $20 per ounce. We had the pleasure of handling it by the dozen pounds from certain gulches, where grains would be like powder, and from others where the nuggets ran as high as $120 each in value. Of course gold dust is the currency at all points, everybody carrying a sack or bottle to hold it and every business house keeping gold scales to weigh out the change required. It is the opinion of many experts who have examined the gulches of the Black Hills that no region of similar extent in the Rocky Mountains contains so large an area of placer diggings. Nearly all unite in the belief that many of the deep claims will be yielding largely for years to come. But quartz mining is destined to become the grand industry, and will alone, at no distant day, require the attention of thousands of busy workers. The quartz deposits are often simply quarries of prodigious extent, reversing the order of mining in older districts and rendering it a much less perplexing piece of business. Other deposits are pronounced true fissure veins by California and Colorado experts, and are found protruding at different angles, and in some en- 22 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. tirely new formations. The gold is generally found in decomposed quartzite and slate, and is easily separated by the simple stamp-mill process. So acces- sible and advantageous do most of the mines lie for working, that the ore is often mined at a cost of only $1.50 per ton. The milling then costs an average of $3.50 per ton. By this it will be seen that low-grade ores, carrying any- where from $8 to $20 per ton, can be worked with profit. Ores of the same value in Colorado, Utah and elsewhere, can rarely be utilized, because they are of such refractory nature that expensive milling processes are necessary to sep- arate the mineral from the rock. In such mmes as the " Father De Smet," " Golden Tejra," " Aurora," " Keats," and dozens of others in the Black Hills, there are thousands of tons of these easily-worked low-grade ores in sight, run- ning from $10 to $50 per ton. When these mines were first discovered the "top rock " of some of them was pulverized in a common mortar, and yielded as high as $2 per pound. Specimens of nearly pure gold are yet often extracted; but to the wonder ul extent of deposits of good average pay-rock in many different mines the Black Hills will owe their future greatness. Black Hills Bonanzas. — To give foundation for our belief that this is the richest small mining district on the face of the globe, we will briefly describe a few of the leading mines: The "Father De Smet," near Dead wood, shows a body of pay-ore 100 feet in iridth, across the face of the hill, and from 10 to 40 feet in height. Shafts and tunnels have been sunk into this at a dozen different points, all penetrating good pay-ore and failing to disclose an end to the im- mense deposit. The average yield of ore taken from the mine at many differ- ent points is $18 per ton. Two 20-stamp mills are constantly at work on rock from this veritable mountain of gold-bearing mineral, and 2U0 stamps are soon to be employed in pounduig out its millions of wealth. The mine, after enrich- ing its original owners, was sold late in 1877 to California capita' ists for $400,000. The "Homestake," at Lead City, three miles from Deadwood, is almost as extensive a deposit of free gold ore as the first-named. There are six excavations in a distance of 500 feet along the face of the lode, each down about 50 feet, and 60 feet in width — the top, bottom and sides all in a splendid body of ore. About 6,000 tons of ore, averaging $16 per ton, have already been milled, and an 80-stamp mill was at last accounts en route from California to work exclusively on rock from this mine. Near Central City is the " Reno " mine, also gold-bearing, extensive develop- ments upon which demonstrate the fact that there is a compact body of exceed- ingly rich ore in sight, 350 by 700 feet in dimensions. Since the discoveiy some $4,000 worth of work and material have been expended on the mine. All of this, as well as the " pocket money " of the owners, has been pounded out of the rock in a common hand mortar and washed out in an ordinary prospecting pan. A single ounce of ore, selected as a specimen, yielded $3.50, and one pound and a half of the rock pounded to pieces with a sledge-hammer, gave the astonish- ing return of $16. We have it from reliable authority that $100,000 in gold was offered for this property and refused. The " Roderick Dhu," near Deadwood, is pronounced a true fissure vein, and has a record worthy of note. It has been traced for a distance of 1,400 feet on the surface and, at several points where shafts have been sunk, shows a. crevice 20 feet wide, which pays from the grass-roots down. All of the ore between these walls is fed to the mills without sorting. During the last five months of 1877, WYOMING AND THE BLACK HILLS. 23 4,000 tons of ore were taken out and crushed, yielding about $16 per ton. A perfect leaf of gold, weighing eleven pennyweights, and taken from one of the shafts, is one of the specimens on exhibition at the mine. The " Fairview " is another of the Black HUls quartz mines which tells its own story every day in the week. At the bottom of a 40-foot shaft the ore- body is 100 feet wide, and of universally good grade. Over 2,000 tons of free- gold ore, yielding from $12 to $20 per ton, have been worked at the company's mill. There are dozens of othei-s on a par with the above, but it is needless to mention them here. Forty different mines are crushing ore and at least one bundred have large piles of it on the "dump," waiting for milling facilities. Two of the principal mines alone keep ten mills busy constantly. On Octo- "ber 23, 1877, the Davenport ten-stamp mill cleaned up $1,534 from 100 tons of "Homestake, No. 1" ore; October 31, Elliott & Parker's ten-stamp mill cleaned up 108 ounces of gold from eight tons of "Father De Smet" ore; $12,000 gold was the result of a ten days' run from Pecacho ore under sev- enty stamps; ten days' run of ten stamps on "Fairview" ore returned $7,000 in gold; December 10, Parker's twenty-stamp mill cleaned up $6,000 in gold from a nine day's run on ore from the "Hidden Treasure." The plates only were cleaned, and the batteries always retain as much gold as is taken from the plates. These figures are merely given as average results of stamp mill work in the Hills and for the benefit of doubting readers. Dozens of others would show the same returns, and the end is not yet. The cry everywhere is " stamp mills! " There were 47 mills, with a total of 700 stamps, in opera- tion in January, 1878, and 8 more, having 300 stamps, in course of construc- tion. All this in just one year from the time of entry of the first stamp mill. It is safe to say that the summer of 1878 wUl see 1,200 stamps ininning day and night upon Black Hills gold ores — more than are in operation in Utah, Wyo- ming, Montana and Idaho combined; and, extravagant as it may seem, we firmly believe that this now comparatively unknown and unappreciated little treasure house will send more gold to the marts of trade during the year than all of the territories put together. The Silver Mines. — The discovery of silver is of more recent date than that of gold, the summer of 1877 having almost passed before much attention was attracted to the silver-bearing ores of the Hills. Bear Butte, a dozen miles from Deadwood, is the principal silver-mining camp. It boasts a pop- ulation of about 200 people, who all hang their faith upon the present and prospective value of the silver veins. The mineral belt is not very extensive, but enough mines have been discovered, which bid fair to rival the best of Colorado and Utah, to assure wealth for many. The ore is very easily worked, a large proportion needing only the old reliable stamp mill to make it give up its wealth. The "base" portion — that which cannot be reduced by stamps — is susceptible of reduction by the smelting process, with but trifling cost. A smelter and crusher is in successful operation, proving not only the richness of the ores, but alao the ease with which the solid rock is made to yield its wealth of silver. Among the principal silver mines is the "Florence," into which a tunnel 300 feet in length has been driven. The tunnel follows a rich ore body all the way. Large shipments of the mineral were made to the Omaha Smelting Works pre- 24 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. vious to the completion of the local works, and after paying the expenses of freighting nearly 300 miles by wagon and 500 by rail, realized handsome re- turns for the owner. The "Red Cloud," "Sitting Bull," "Merritt" — Nos. 1 and 2, and the " Silver Harvest" all show fine bodies of high grade ore, which impatiently await the magic touch of capital to transform them into silver bars. Ores from these mines assay all the way from $50 to $2,000 per ton. Bald Mountain, five miles above Deadwood, is another promising silver district, hav- ing very high grade ore in several mines. A town called Silver City has been laid out and is growing rapidly. Location, Yield of Mines, Sales, Etc. — Up to January 10, 1878, there had been 7,200 gold and silver mines recorded in the diiferent districts of the Black Hills. The yield of gold for the year 1877 was estimated by bankers and other competent authority at nearly $4,000,000, four-fifths of which went south by express and private conveyance to the Union Pacific Railroad. Leading sales of mining property have been as follows: "Father De Smet," $400,000; "Golden Terra," $80,000; " Homestake, No. 1," $70,000; "Homestake, No. 2," $50,000; "Florence," $51,000; "Old Abe," $42,500. Hundreds of other cash transfers have been made at prices from $1,000 up to $25,000. The Cali- fornia mining capitalists, who have been so anxious to determine the existence or non-existence of true fissure veins in the Hills, have invested nearly a million of dollars in mines and mills around Deadwood, as a token of their present belief in the matter. Petroleum. — As if nature could not too bountifully lavish her favors upon this until recently terra incognita of our dominions, aside from producing the val- uable precious and base metals, we find incontrovertible evidence of the existence of an extensive petroleum deposit, the products of which, at no distant day, prom- ises to form a large item in the catalogue of our industries. In the fall of 1877 a flowing spring of genuine petroleum was discovered eight miles to the south- east of Jenney's Stockade, on the Cheyenne and Black Hills stage road. The crude oil has been taken to Deadwood by the barrel and is now being used for lubricating purposes at the quartz mills there and elsewhere. Those of much experience in the oil fields of Pennsylvania pronounce this Black Hills produc- tion superior to the native oils of that state, it possessing a much heavier "body" and with less grit or impurities. The fields are some twenty-five miles wide with a length unknown. Up to February 1, 1878, nearly 100 locations of 160 acres each had been made, and improved machinery for boring was en route. Eastern lubricating oil, laid down at Deadwood, costs $31 per barrel. As great quantities are used in the Hills the value of this discovery can in a measure be estimated. '^Ranching,'" Lumbering, Scenertj, etc. — The numerous valleys, fertile soil and abundant rainfall in the Hills, together with the best market in the land, have combined to render "ranching," or farming, a very general avocation. The soil is generally a rich black loam, well nigh bottomless, as the valleys have long been filling up from the crumbling mould of the adjacent hills. Rain falls in light warm showers almost daily in summer — an unaccountable phe- nomena in that plain-bound oasis. In the lower valley, wheat, oats, barley and all hardy vegetables are grown without trouble, and in the higher parks, pota- toes, cabbages, peas, etc., yield abundantly. The Spearfish, Belle Fourche and Redwater are the principal valleys, and already have much of their arable area Emma Lake, Estes Park, Near the Colorado Central Railhoao. •26 TO THE ROCKIES ANT) BEYOND. taken up. One farmer in Spearfish valley (Judge J. S. Beck) cleared $15,000 on potatoes and other vegetables from his 160-acre ranch in 1877. Potatoes sell at from 7 to 10 cents per pound at any of the mining camps; cabbage, 5 cents; turnips, 8; onions, 12; squash, 10; corn, 6; oats, 6. A luxuriant growth of grass spreads over the whole region, even upon the steep hill sides, and is utihzed at many points by fine herds of cattle and sheep. The varieties of grass are almost endless; wild oats, wild rye, crowsfoot, grama and blue stem are among the varieties noticed. The areas of hay lands are not extensive, as a rule, but small patches are found in the parks and along the streams everywhere. Hay sells at from $20 to $30 per ton at Deadwood. Agricultural districts outside of the Hills are so far distant that the farmer near the mines will always secure extravagant prices for produce. Wild fruits are exceptionally plentiful. We repeatedly feasted on plums, which were superior in flavor to any wild ones we have ever eaten elsewhere. Raspberries, gooseberries, currants, service berries, bear berries, stra^Yberries and cherries, with other varieties that to us are nameless, are found in different localities. Hazel nuts and hops are also found, the hops making a growth scarcely equaled in the rich bottoms of the Mississippi and Missouri. The flora is none the less varied. Nearly all the wild flowers familiar in the east are reported here, and the visitor is greeted by some new and very beautiful species. Fish are plentiful in some of the streams, but better hunting grounds can be found nearer the railroad, because a horde of hunters have for two years been glutting the ravenous appetites of Black Hillers on the trophies of the chase. The lumbering interest has assumed proportions only second in importance to that of mining. Pine, spruce, oak and birch are leading varieties among the hills, while cottonwood, box-elder and ash border most of the streams. Six- teen saw mills are at work in the immediate vicinity of Deadwood, and the forests are full of them in other sections. Besides the large quantities of lum- ber needed for building purposes it is consumed very rapidly in timbering mines. It sells at from $28 to $30 per M delivered. Stage roads track the Hills in every direction and from these running south to Sidney and Cheyenne, especially, views rivaling the beauties of the Catskills can often be obtained. It should be remembered that the scenery here more nearly resembles that of the eastern mountains than anything in the west. The ^oft outlines, the luxuriant vegetation, and the rippling brooks are leading con- stituents, rather than cold, gray cliffs, barren walls and rushing torrents so com- mon in the Rockies. Sulphur and other medicinal waters are found in the south- ern part of thi Hills, and a cave, well worthy the visit of every traveler, is one of the attractions near Crook City in the northern portion. The admirable views of Sunshine Falls and Sentinel Rock on another page, will give readers an idea of the hundreds of other snnilar gems of Black Hills scenery. Mining Camps, Population, Cost of Living and Routes. — Prominent camps outside of Deadwood are as follows: Gayville, South Bend, Central City, Golden Gate, Anchor City, Oro and Lead City, all within a circuit of four miles from Deadwood and centers of rich gulch and quartz mines. The total population of these is about 5,000. Crook City, located in a beautiful park on Whitewood creek, 10 miles east of Deadwood, contains about 500 inhabitants. It was named in honor of General Crook, — whose successful campaigns against the hostile Sioux and Cheyennes have enabled the settlers to hold their homes— and is surrounded WYOMING AND THE BLACK HILLS. 27 by rich mines as well as adjacent to fine agricultural valleys. Rapid City is a thiiving town of about 700 inhabitants, located 42 miles south of Deadwood, on the Sidney and Black Hills stage road. Large quartz veins, carrying both gold a^rol silver, have been discovered in the vicinity. Deposits of iron ore and gypsum are also quite extensive here. Rapid Creek, on the banks of which the town is located, furnishes an admirable and never-failing water power by its rapid fall and large volume. It courses a valley of surpassing beauty and marked fertility, some 40 miles in length by from one to two miles in width. On the same stage hne and 53 miles south of Deadwood is Custer, the pioneer settlement in the Black Hills, and in our estimation by far the most beautifully located. French Creek here waters a broad, level valley, which is bordered by low, grassy bills, dotted with clusters of pines. Some of the highest peaks in the hills limit vision in the distance and form background for one of the loveliest landscapes in the country. Good quartz mines have been discovered in the vicinity and the deep gulch diggings of French Creek were the first prime incentives to the rush of gold seekers. Population about 500. Galena, 12 miles from Deadwood, is a promising camp in the Bear Butte silver mining district, containing some 400 people. Good wagon roads and daily stage lines connect nearly all of these points with Cheyenne and Sidney. A.t the convention called favoring the organization of a new territory in the fall of 1877, 19 towns and mining camps were represented. The present total population of the Black Hills region is estimated at from 12,O()0 to 18,000. More people have been in the Hills, but hundreds of the " driftwood " have folded their tents and sought other fields, leavmg the real bone and sinew to conquer the wilds. We believe that few fields are presented which offer such inducements for the investment of small or large capital, but he who possesses neither dollars nor energy can exist to a better advantage east of the Missouri. There are mines, pastures and farmlands here which will enrich twice the pres- ent population, in spite of all reports of departed grumblers. Cost of living at principal hotels in the Hills is from $12 to $20 per week; at boarding houses, $8 to $10. Miners often live in cabins and " batch it " at a cost of from $3 to $5 each per week. Prices of provisions, aside from ranch produce already noted, are about as follows: Flour, $8.50 to $10 per cvvt; bacon, 18 to 25 c nts per pound; butter, 35 to 45 cents; dried fruits, 18 to 25; coffee, 35 to 45; sugars, 18 to 20; eggs, 45 to 75 cents per dozen. Cottages of only two and three rooms rent for $25 to $40 per month; business houses, 20x40 feet, rent readily at $150 per month. Good miners nearly always find employment at from $4 to $5 per day. Novices are numerous now and don't receive more than half as much as the skilled workmen. All agree that the old established routes to the Union Pacific Railway, via Cheyenne or Sidney, offer the only direct and safe means of exit from the Black Hills. They are the only natural ones and of course the tide of travel and ship- ments of treasure and produce must always flow over them. Concerning this general opinion of residents the Blach Hills Mining Bepotier says: "The com- fort, speed and popularity of Union Pacific Railway trains is too well established to need a word of commendation. From Sidney or Cheyenne passengers take the coaches of the Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage company; well superintended, the roads well stocked with four and six-horse Concord coaches and with every comfort of stage travel, and over a solendid road, reach Deadwood in 50 hours 28 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. from the time of starting, the distance being 260 miles. The fare (through ticket) from Chicago to Deadwood is $49.25. This is the only line upon which military posts are established, and over which a telegraph wire runs.* This being the acknowledged best route, the traveling public should choose no other, for the following reasons : The removal of the Indians by the government from the Red Cloud Agency to the Missouri river, renders the southern route from the U. P. R. R. entirely free from marauding bands; while the northern routes via Pierre and Bismarck will be constantly crossed by these turbulent spirits, going to and from Sitting Bull's camp and the excellent hunting grounds of the Yellowstone and Powder river countries. The recent raids made 'on the Bis- marck coaches fully authenticate this. Therefore, for safety, speed and comfort, we would give the Sidney and Cheyenne routes our unqualified and hearty recommendation. Having personally obtained a thorough knowledge of all routes we give this entirely free from recompense from the railroads or the stage lines, and with certainly no prejudice, but with a conscious sense of doing our whole duty to the vast immigration that will necessarily visit this new Eldorado." It should be remembered that Custer, Hay ward, Rapid City, and other points at the eastern edge of the Hills, are on the Sidney route, while all mining camps in the center or on the western side of the Hills, are either on the line of the Cheyenne route or are easily accessible from it. (See map in this pam- phlet.) Custer can also be reached from the Cheyenne route; a daily stage lino branching off fi'om Jenny's Stockade for that point. Fares from Deadwood to Crook City, 10 miles, $2; to Rapid City, 42 miles, $6; Cheyenne or Sidney, f30. Fares from Deadwood to all points in the Hills will average fifteen cents per mile. THE BIG HORN REGION. Lying almost wholly in northwestern Wyoming, and covering an area of some 15,000 square miles, is the great Big Horn Region, which is so rapidly coming to the front as a rendezvous for overflowing civilization. Rising near the head of Powder river the Big Horn Range trends off" grandly to the north- west for a distance of 200 miles, and then, turning almost directly west, soon loses itself in the different ranges bordering the Yellowstone National; Park. Many of the mountain peaks rise up 12.000 feet above the sea, while the average altitude of the valleys at the base of the range is 4,500 feet. A scene which we can never forget is that which we enjoyed from the Cheyenne route as we caught our first glimpse of this great water-shed. We can do no better than to quote what we jotted down then: "Nearly the whole of the resplendent range, stretching off along the northwestern horizon 150 miles, is grasped by the eager vision — ' a cloud-land mirage ! ' we first exclaim, its lofty peaks appearing white, fleecy and ethereal enough to belong to cloud-land, and yet too surpass- ingly grand to be spared by even a beautiful earth. In most harmonious contrast to the great banks of glittering snow — banks of burnished silver, they looked to us — are the long, purple- tinged pedestals upon which they rest. These are the unusally rugged foot-hills, and they receive their rich coloring from dense forests of pine and spruce, which cover them from base to summit. From near the center rise Cloud and Hayes peaks, the proudest landmarks of all the northern country, while at frequent intervals on either side other snow- capped sentinels are clearly outlined against the sky. Even from this distant WYOxMING AXD THE BLACK HILLS. 29 Yiew the grand canons of the Tongue river tributaries are defined — sombre and threatening gashes, and sometimes almost cavernous in their rocky mould." It was the writer's good fortune to traverse this grand wilderness almost from end to end, and to several times cross the Big Horn range in the vicinity of Cloud Peak. From the summit, at an altitude of some 1^,000 feet, a view which can hardly be equaled in the mountain ranges of America was obtained. Eastward it swept from the Powder river region to that of the Yellowstone and ■a. radius of 250 miles was but a comprehensive panorama for the naked eye. The Tongue, Powder, Rosebud and other rivers could be traced almost from the feet of the enraptured visitor, out northward among their lesser mountains and flanking plains, until lost in the picturesque brakes of the Yellowstone, 150 miles away. Westward for over 100 miles stretched the valley of the Big Horn, the crystal sheen of that river itself often emerging from graceful groves of richest green. Still beyond in that direction were the Wmd River mountains, with their thousand rugged canyons and unbroken covering of snow. Yet beyond — over 200 miles distant — was the Shoshone range, bordering the National Park, its giant peaks rising up like spectres in the dim background saying, " thus far and no farther shalt thy vision penetrate." Then the gi-and mass of granite upon which we stood, so long the fascinating terra incognita of the northwest, and to-day the richest field of promise in all our broad land, afforded a study never to be forgotten. Mountains upon mountains rolled up toward our common footstool like the exaggerated waves of an ocean — with " white caps " of snow for " white caps " of foam — these, when analyzed, be- coming live forests of refreshing green or fire-licked forests of sombre brown and gray, sheltering hundreds of mountain torrents, leaping waterfalls, pine- embowered parks and rock-girt lakes. It was simply a survey of America's best hunting-grounds, her deepest and grandest solitudes, and her land richest in native tradition, adventure and "extravagant possibilities." Much abler pens filled columns with glowing descriptions of those "dizzy altitudes, black, ened cliffs and awful gorges," and yet the half has not been told. The region has always been coveted by dififerent savage nations, and its lovely valleys have been the scene of perpetual strife. The Crows and Shoshonea have for years sacrificed their best blood in vain endeavors to rid it of their deadly enemies, the Sioux. The tribes unite in calling the Big Horn and Tongue river regions the most beautiful of America — the natural home of all noble game and of the most delicate fish. The Crows have a beautiful saying, "The Great Spirit only looks at other countries in summer, but here he dwells all the year," Then another tribe have a tradition which tells them that this country is nearest the " happy hunting ground," and that the warrior who falls here is particularly favored, because he makes only one short step from the old scenes to the enchanting new. Gold in the Big Horn Mountains. — " Colors " of gold have been found in nearly all the streams debouching from the Big Horn Mountains, but as yet the source of all these little grains is a profound mystery. It is known that mining was carried on there many years ago by the Spanish explorers from the south and that many trappers and scouts, during hasty visits in our own time, have found deposits of considerable richness. Numerous small and a few large par- ties of miners have entered the region and found splendid prospects of both gulch and quartz gold, but always encountered supernumerary savages as well. 30 TO THE ROCKIKS AND BEYOND. One year ago the region was considered practically impenetrable by any force short of a regiment of well disciplined troops; and the operations of the military have always been so thoroughly confined to taking care of " Mr. Lo " (some- times to taking care of themselves) that no real opportunity has been oiFered for a thorough search of the gulches. In January, 1878, considerable excitement was created by the discoveries of rich quartz mines on Crazy Woman's Fork of Powder river. We have seen immense deposits of decomposed gold-bearing quartz during our perambulations with the military in the mountains near Cloud Peak. The veins were clearly defined ledges of from five to twenty feet in width, protruding from the vast walls of granite so plainly that they could be traced for miles. We still believe that quartz and placer mines of an extent and richness second to none in the western mountains will be found within the grand confines of this section. Valleys, Soil, Climate, Game and Fish. — The principal rivers are the Pow- der, Tongue, Wind and Big Horn, with hundreds of splendid tributaries which well deserve the title of "rivers." For nearly two hundred miles along the northeastern base of the Big Horn mountains, the clearest and most beautiful of streams sweep violently down through their picturesque gorges, and course northward a hundred and fifty miles to the common reservoir — the great Yel- lowstone. These often occur at intervals of less than five miles, and it is seldom that more than a dozen miles of unequaled uplands separate them, or that C17S- tal springs do not send pretty laterals bounding over gravel beds to the more pretentious creeks or rivers. The valleys are fi-om one to ten miles wide, and the soil is usually a rich, black, porous loam. Every element of fertility seems to be present, and every species of vegetation attests its wonderful nourishment by a most luxuriant growth. Irrigation will be a necessary auxiliai-y to cultivation, but with these numberless dashing streams, bearing with their beauty the im- palpable fertilizers of crumbling mountains, it will be a pleasure rather than a task. Vegetable life is much the same as in Rocky Mountain regions four hun- dred miles farther south, except that the varieties here often have a much stronger growth. Wild rye is found so tall that a cavaliyman could nearly, if not entirely, hide himself in it, while mounted. Wild oats, native blue-grass, and all the varieties of plains grasses, present this same strong testimony of fertility of soil and congenial climate. Natural pasture lands could not be finer than these. The average altitude of the valleys being less than 4.000 feet, the region of summer frosts is not reached. Wild fruits and flowers are as plentiful as in the Black Hills. Many of the valleys contain enough cottonwood, ash, box-elder and other timber to supply logs for fuel or building, for years to come. The great mount- ains overlooking on one side, and many of the bluff's below, are covered with forests of pine, hemlock, spruce and cedar, furnishing inexhaustible quantities of building material. We opine that about every other settler will own a coal mine, as the " black diamonds " crop out almost everywhere, and are known to furnish an excellent quality of fuel, as they have often been tested in the camp forges of the military. We found some of our choicest hunting grounds in this region, and, as already intimated, it has always been considered a very paradise for hunters, white or red. It was the chosen resort of hundreds of Northwestern Fur Com- pany employes half a century ago. Many were the batteaux, or Mackinaw 32 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. boats, which floated down the great rivers from these wilds, freighted with the richest offerings of field, forest and stream. A pretty good joke — and one with solid foundation in fact ^ is told at the expense of one of the prominent officers who led a large expedition through this region about ten years ago : The col- umn was near the forks of the Piney, and scouts came back with the report that a large body of Indians was moving up the valley, with evident intent to attack. The general hastened forward, took in the terrors of the situation with his field glass, and soon had his forces posted in first rate style for defense. The attack- ing column advanced in very close order, and kicked up so much dust that little could be seen of it. But it surged on resistlessly. Men were holding their breath in the tremor of suspense, and just as they expected the order to fire a sharp breeze wafted away the dust, disclosing a herd of a thousand elk — ten thousand, our informant says, but we should prefer not to spoil a good story. Elk, buffalo, mountain sheep, black and white-tailed deer, antelope, grizzly and other varieties of bear, witli all kinds of small game, have always found in this region their most coveted surroundings. The streams are yet full of beaver and other fur-bearing animals, and the country is literally alive with several spe- cies of the wolf. The Yellowstone, Big Horn and Tongue rivers and their hun- dreds of tributaries, are plentifully supplied with trout, pike, shiners, catfish, suckers, and other varieties of fish. Two years ago only the ruins of long since abandoned forts suggested thoughts of past or present civilization. Now three of the largest military posts in Amer- ica — one near the spot where the gallant Custer fell — are located at convenient intervals. In January, 1878, great excitement was caused by the discovery of rich quartz mines on the head waters of a fork of Powder river, where just one year before. General Crook's forces fought one of the hardest battles of the Sioux war. The telegraph is now stretched from Fort Fetterman, on the Platte, to Camp McKinney on Powder river — where the Sioux, ten years ago, burnt and plundered old P'ort Reno — and the whole region is thus placed on gossiping terms with the outside world. The spot now occupied by Murphy's Ranch, on the Clear Fork of Powder river, was for many years one of the Indians' choicest camping places, and the broad and beautiful valley is there fairly strewn with tepee poles and other remnants of the aborigines' favorite habitation. Herds have been pushed northward far beyond the Platte, up along the Cheyenne and Big Horn road, ranches being scattered along at all the crossings of the streams from Cheyenne through to the base of the Big Horn mountains, a distance of three hundred miles. The Cheyenne route from the southeast is the only one which yet furnishes a -complete list of camping places, and which has been measured by odometer. It is also the only one yet traversed by the writer, and therefore the only one of which he can speak understandingly. It is the old overland Montana route, possesses a splendid road-bed and easy grades from beginning to end, and lies over the country which would naturally be traversed by the proposed Cheyenne and Montana railway Following the regular Black Hills road to Hunton's ranch, on the Chugwater, the emigrant then branches off to the northwest upon the old and constantly traveled government highway to Fort Fetterman. Such clear, strong streams as the Laramie river, Horseshoe, Big Cottonwood, Elkhorn and La Bonte creeks are crossed en route, affording fine camping places with plenty of wood and pure mountain water. From Fort Fetterman northwest, a WYOMIXG AisD liiE Bi.ACK HILLS. 33 distance of ninety miles, over choice grazing lands, the traveler will find as fine a road as crosses any portion of our prairies. This stage of the journey com- pleted, Camp McKinney, on Powder river, is reached. Forty miles distant the grand Big Horn range rises in plain view, and the journey thither is finished easily in a day's ride. At the Powder river crossing a good stock of provisions IS always on hand, and that point will be found a most convenient outpost. A weekly mail now goes to that point via Cheyenne. A fair wagon road leads from Deadwood to Camp McKinney — distance, 200 miles. Following is an accurate table of distances over the Cheyenne route : Miles. Cheyenne to Lodge Pole Creek 16 Lodge Pole Creek to Bear Springs 20 Bear Springs to Chugwater 14 Chugwater to Hunton's Ranch 15 Hunton's Ranch to South Laramie River 22 Laramie River to Cottonwood R^nch 20 Cottonwood Ranch to Elkhorn 25 Elkhorn to Wagon Hound 15 Wagon Hound to Fort Fetterman 16 Fort Fetterman to Sage Creek* 14 Sage Creek to South Fork Cheyenne River 18 South Fork Cheyenne to Antelope Springsf 21 Antelope Springs to Dry Fork of Powder River 23 Dry Fork Powder to Camp McKinney 14 Camp McKinney to Crazy Woman's Fork 27 Crazy Woman's Fork to Clear Fork 20 Clear Fork to base of Cloud Peak 25 Total 325 The distance from Cheyenne to Virginia City, Montana, by this route, is 690 miles. Wyoming legislators have already memorialized Congress for a land grant in aid of a railway leading thither. As camps, trading posts, mail routes, and the telegraph are established to the southern boundary of the Big Horn region, and prospectors have already rushed in by the hundred, the daily six- horse coach over that line is a feature of the not very distant future. The Big Horn region, so vast, so rich in agricultural and pastoral resources, and undoubt- edly possessing great mineral wealth, will then soon be pouring its cattle and sheep, its grain and wool, and its riches of the sluice-box and quartz vein out over the common trans-continental highway. Verily, whither is the course of empire ? * No wood t Water poor and scarce. 3 34 TO THE ROCKTES A¥D BEYOND. CHAPTER III. COLORADO — WEALTH AND ATTRACTIONS OF OUR YOUNGEST STATE. Now, as the tourist glides southward over that prodigy of all Colorado rail- ways — the Colorado Central — and crosses into the realms of the bright Centen- nial State, he may wish to glance at Colorado, past and present. Only nineteen years ago the germ of this noble commonwealth was planted along the golden gulches he is so rapidly nearing. In these nineteen years Colorado's mountains have yielded $80,000,000 in gold and silver. It is estimated that her pastures, farms and dairies have furnished her markets^'with $50,000,000 worth of pro- ducts, and her taxable wealth has increased from a few thousands in 1859 to over $40,000,000 in 1877. From the small gatherings of frenzied miners along her mineral veins in palmy '59, she has grown to the enviable strength of 150,000 busy, conquering natures, these inhabitants fairly charged with a nervous, un- compromising energy, born of sunny skies and purest ether. Over 60,000 mines have already been discovered and recorded, and the din of the quartz miU, the diill and the blast echo night and day from a thousand mountain sides and mountain depths. The yield of gold, silver, copper and coal for 1877, according to the best authority, was $9,000,000. The shipments of live stock amounted to 75,000 head; of wool, 5,000,000 pounds; yield of wheat, 1,750,000 bushels; value of manufactured articles, $5,838,209.60; number of live stock in the state, 1,500,- 000 head. The following table represents the value of all productions for the year 1877: BuUion $7,913,411 00 Cattle 2,233,200 00 Wheat 1,837,500 00 Other agricultural products 775,000 00 Hay. . . 7 1,250,000 00 Coal 1,065,385 00 Wool, hides, etc 1,340,000 00 Manufactured products 5,838,209 60 Total $22,252,705 60 Seven years ago Colorado was without railway communication, and generally styled "out of the world." To-day her energetic citizens point with pride to eight different railroads tracking her broad prairies and plunging even to the hearts and heights of her mountains. The total number of miles of these lines operated is 1,133. Half of these have been constructed while the railway inter- est has been paralyzed in almost all other sections, ami Colorado' s_showing is due almost wholly to the invincible pluck of her citizens, the wondrous wealth of her mines and the riches in her grasses and farm lands. Seven of these lines, aggregating nearly 1,000 miles, were built while she was yet a territory. The daily mail, telegraph and express radiate from her capital city to every nook and corner. From the garden spot of the state you are just entering at the north to the furthermost mining camp south and west you will And these pulsating and Bui'i.DKR Falls, Boulder Canyon, Col. 36 TO THE liOCKIKS AND BEYOND. life-giving arteries contributing their share toward founding an empire of wealth. Commercial and educational interests have in these few years of Colorado's history augmented in almost incredible speed. In the past seven years she has trebled in population and wealth. The state already boasts thirty-five banking institutions, with a capital of over $3,000,000. Wholesale houses carrying large stocks and representing every line are not only found in Denver, but at several other valley and mountain cities. These do a business of from $.500,000 to $1,500,000 each, and come into close competition with heavy eastern dealers. Internal revenue collections in 1877 were $80,000, or more than those from Ari- zona, Dakota, Idaho, Montana and Wyoming combined. As an evidence of the educational and literary advantages enjoyed here in the heart of the continent it may be mentioned that the state contains 275 free schools, a magnificent State University and half a dozen well-conducted sectarian and private seminaries. No people read more, these not only supporting a dozen crood public libraries, but also sustaining forty-five well-edited newspapers, one-sixth of the number being published daily. In points of climate or scenery Colorado is rivaled by no other state or terri- tory in the land. Her pleasure and health resorts, from one to two miles above sea level, afford an atmosphere which is an elixir in itself. Into her princely area of 105,000 square miles are crowded every variety of valley and mountain temperature. Sunshine, dry streets and a maximum of warm days may be en- joyed in her sheltered valleys in winter, or flowers and snow banks and a frosty atmosphere may garnish the mountain camp-ground in midsummer. The range of mineral waters for either bathing or drinking purposes is probably greater than in any region of similar extent on the globe. Hot sulphur and soda for bathing, cold soda, seltzer, iron, chalybeate and sulphur for drinking, are found at altitudes ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 feet above the sea, and in several cases are within sight of the railway. The scenic attractions are none the less varied, and can nearly always be viewed from the luxuriant palace car, the comfortable day coach, or by unsurpassed mountain carriage roads. The invalid, whose mind must feed on something, can combine business and profit with the great aim of his sojourn, for adjacent to the most charming health resorts are Colorado's grandest mining, smelting and railroad enterprises. These offer an ever-fruitful study, and always present a field for business venture. As a prominent writer expresses it: " Life everywhere is safe; travel is easy; the mountains are full of neat little homes." No region of such multiplied attractions could be more accessible. This is but a hasty outline, an imperfect peep through the portals of one of these marvelously rich a,nd thriving regions so thoroughly permeated and drained by the Union Pacific and its busy feeders. While following the bands of steel through the valleys and into the mountains we tried to become acquainted with the pleasant topic in all its details, and in pages following will give our read- ers the result. • THE COLORADO CENTRAL BRANCH OF THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY. One of the most important of all home enterprises of the state is this giant young railway. The completion of its main line from Denver to the Union Pa- "THE AMEKICAX SWITZERLAND." 37 cific, at Cheyenne, marks a jifrand era in the railway history of Coloiado, and suppHes us with striking illustrations of healthy " outwest " enterprise. Begun seven years ago, at Golden City, with prospects anything but bright, it has not only been the pioneer for the farmer in the valleys, but has carried with it the means of development for the miner within his walls of granite and at his sluice- box as well. Under the auspices and continued guidance of the present presi- dent of the company, Hon. W. A. H. Loveland, it has been pushed to completion with an energy worthy of note. The first section of sixteen miles was com- menced and completed in the summer months of 1870. This was the standard broad-gauge, and connected Denver with Golden, at the foot-hills. During the summer and fall of 1872 the narrow-gauge hne was pushed through the won- derful Clear Creek Canon, from Golden to the heart of the great gold region at Black Hawk, a distance of twenty-two miles. Early in 1873 four miles of nar- row-gauge were completed up South Clear Creek, opening by an easy route the whole of Clear Creek county and the rich silver mines of Georgetown. A month later thirty-eight miles of the main broad-gauge line, leading from Golden north through Colorado's finest farm lands to Longmont, were in operation. During the months of May. June and July, 1877, the mountain line was extended along South Clear Creek to Georgetown — fourteen miles — tapping the very silver veins, and carrying needed supplies from the fertile valleys 5,000 feet below to the miner's door. While this work was going on in the depths of the mountains, the crowning achievement was inaugurated on the through line between Long- mont and Cheyenne. Including the switches, eighty miles of track were here laid in sixty-seven days, and by the close of October, 1877, Colorado enjoyed her first independent through line, from the mountain cities to Omaha and the Mis- souri river. The narrow-gauge extension from Black Hawk to Central, four miles, one of the finest pieces of railway engineering ever attempted, is also about completed, and will give this corporation 185 miles of splendidly built and equipped road- way. Extensions also in progress from Georgetown to the South Park silver mines, 73 miles; from Central to Caribou, 20 miles, and from Golden to Acequia, on the Denver & Rio Grande Railway, 16 miles, will assist in a large degree in making this railway the great drain and feeder of all the prominent mining and agricul- tural regions of Colorado. The Only Route. — The Colorado Central Railway is the only route traversing the rich and populous agricultural districts of the state. It is the only line pen- etrating the immense gold and silver belt, and the only one tapping alike the great valley coal measures and mountain forests. By it the tourist is furnished the grandest mountain views at every mile of progress and is finally set down in the midst of the most rugged and beautiful canon scenery, or within stone's throw of Colorado's most famous medicinal springs. Of Colorado's thirty counties the different branches of this railway penetrate six. These six counties, according to official reports, contain 75,000 people, or one-half of the entire pop- ulation of the State. Their taxable wealth is $20,500,000— more than half the total valuation of the State — and in gold and silver, wheat and other products, these six counties contributed in 1877 $14,000,000 out of the total of $22,000,000 produced by the entire state. The wheat yield of four of these banner counties — Larimer, Boulder, Jefferson and Arapahoe — was 1,150,000 bushels, three- fourths of the production of the state, while the three counties of Boulder, Clear 38 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. Creek and Gilpin — tributary alone to the Colorado Central Railway — poured out an offering of $5,200,000 in gold, silver and coal, and thus suppUed two-thirds of Colorado's mineral yield. In brief, then, the Colora'.lo Central Railway is prosperous, alone and unri- valed in its sphere because, first, it alone penetrates the most thickly populated and the most lavishly productive sections of a rich state; second, because it fol- lows the greatest of all belts — the wheat belts anu the belts of gold and silver; third, it is the great and only factor of exchange between the army of treasui-e- finders in the metal-ribbed mountains and the thousands of thrifty wheat and cattle-raisers in the fertile valleys; fourth, it bears the pleasure- seeker to natural attractions rivaling the Yosemite, and the invalid to the country's most invig- orating atmosphere and most delicious and health-giving waters. Dtslances. — Stations, distances and local fares southward from Cheyenne are as follows : Cheyenne to ' Mile.?. Pare. Colorado Junction 5 $0 65 Lone Tree 15 75 Round Butte 23 1 25 Bristol 32 1 75 FortCollins 50 2 50 Loveland - 61 3 10 Berthoud 69 3 25 Highland 73 3 C5 Longmont 78 3 50 Ni Wot 84 3 60 Boulder 91 3 75 Lakeside 94 4 00 Davidson 98 4 15 Coal Creek ICO 4 25 Church's 109 4 75 Ralston 115 5 00 Golden 117 5 25 Ahlstrom's l'"3 5 45 Arvada 12 i 5 50 Denver 132 00 At Colorado Junction, five miles west of Cheyenne, the road turns off squarely to the southward and maintains this general direction for over 100 miles. The ever-majestic mountains, from five to ten miles distant on the west, furnish an almost unending panorama in that direction, while on the east the great sheep and cattle ranges stretch to the horizon. Soon after leaving Colorado Junction we crossed some of Colorado's most famous antelope country, and by keeping a sharp lookout could see the contented animals browsing among the rounded hills at almost any time. Large herds of sheep and cattle also here find a favor- ite range. In crossing the ridges which border Lone Tree creek, some pretty heavy grades are made, but just as we caught a glimpse of the valley of the same name, the order was reversed. The descent is easily accomplished, how- ever, by the skill of these latter-day railway builders. The road follows up the right side of the valley for a short distance, then, by a graceful curve, crosses the broad meadows and descends on the opposite side. Lone Tree. VnUei/ boasts several of the best sheep, cattle and horse ranches to be found along the line. Several prominent business men of Cheyenne are engaged in this interest here. Cattle nnd horses are never fed, while sheep re- 40 TO THE llOCKIES AND BEYOND. quire hay only at rare intervals in the winter. The neighboring bluffs not only furnish the necessary shelter for stock in winter, but are also the best source for food, as their abrupt sides are seldom covered with snow. Antelope are abun- dant among the surrounding hills, and wild ducks are always noticeable in the creek in spring and autumn. A few days' hunt could ])e pleasantly raiade from any of these ranches at less expense for board than one would incur in western cities. Passing down the valley a few miles, the road again strikes into the grass- covered uplands so common between water courses along the foot-hills. The small way-stations, Round Butte and Bristol, are quickly passed, the former being named after a prominent land mark in its vicinity on the left. Duck Hunting. — Three or four miles south of Bristol, near the track, are several small lakes which are literally covered with wild geese and ducks during the fall and early winter months. Only a few local hunters have ever disturbed the water fowl here, and abundant success still awaits the sportsman. A farmer near by has thus far about monopolized the business by scattering heaps of wheat screenings at points along the shore, attracting immense flocks of the birds to certain localities, and then trapping them by an ingeniously ar- ranged net. Fort Collins, five miles south, would be the proper rendezvous for hunters. Cache la Poadre Valley. — One of the very finest rural landscapes of the route was presented as we emerged from the last range of hills bordering Cache la Poudre Valley on the north. Looking ten miles up the stream on a bright, Colorado day, our eyes could almost trace the shadows of its magnificent de- bouch from a wild gorge in the Rockies. Eastward, for thirty miles, to its junction with the South Platte, is one of the loveliest valleys in all the country. It is from five to ten miles wide, and from its rich golden wheat fields on either side, slopes down gradually to broad, level meadows, the tall, luxuriant grasses of these fringing a stream of remarkable purity and beauty. It is thickly studded with excellent farm buildings from the very foot of the mountains to its eastern extremity. Over 250,000 bushels of wheat were produced here in 1877. Twenty farmers, whose homesteads joined each other, reported an average of thirty- three bushels of wheat per acre, and the cases are numerous in which from forty to fifty bushels per acre were produced from favored fields. Reliable authority places the average yield throughout the entire valley at thirty bushels per acre. Extensive flouring mills in the valley work up a large portion of the wheat. Irrigation is necessary everywhere. Several very fine dairies are in operation near the line of the road, one of these producing a really "gilt-edge " quality of butter, and selling the same, by special contract, the year round at from thirty-five to forty cents per pound. Breeders of fine blooded sheep have also found congenial quarters among the adjacent hills. Wild lands, of which there are yet plenty, seU at from four to ten dollars per acre. Improved lands at from twenty to forty dollars. All produce finds a very ready sale at Chey- enne, Denver and in the mining and lumbering camps in the mountains. The great pineries near the head of the stream, twenty miles distant, are contributing largely to the lumber supply of Denver, Cheyenne, the Government posts, and to the plains country for a distance of a hundred miles down the Platte. Two firms employ large gangs of men to cut and float the timber to mills located at Greeley, twenty-five miles down the valley. These firms 42 TO THE KOCKIES AND BEYOND. have, in connection with their saw mills, improved apparatus for planing, matching and dressing lumber in different ways, and also for the manufacture of shingles on a large scale. Over 1,500,000 feet of lumber are thus handled per year. Silver has been discovered below the logging camps, a short distance in- side the mountains. The Upper Cache la Poudre furnishes unexcelled trout fishing, deer and bear hunting, and superior scenic attractions. Residents from all of northern Colo- rado and southern Wyoming consider this a favorite resort, and during the summer months can be found at almost eveiy turn, either camping out in the secluded glens or faring more bountifully at the many ranches among the foot- hills. Excellent home-cookery, with such items as fresh butter, milk, eggs, vegetables, and at some points mountain trout and clean beds, can be enjoyed at an average of $1.50 per day. Of camping-out we shall have more to say in future pages. We made a five days' trip to the head waters of the Cache la Poudre, a httle beyond the usual range of tourists, and found a region so wild and so delightful for its very solitude that we were loth to leave it. At many points dense pine forests would crowd the waters' edge, then suddenly a beautiful park or meadow would tempt us to a halt. Scarcely a mile of ascent was accomphshed without crossing a swift, clear, spiing-fed brook. Rivers and brooks were fairly swarming with trout, and among the mountams on either side elk and deer betrayed their presence almost hourly. Though the altitude is great — about 8,500 feet — some of the most tempting sites imaginable for ranches were found at many points. The growth of wild fruits — especially the strawberry and gooseberry — the flowers and grasses furnished endless surprise. At an elevation of 9,000 feet, where plenty of snow was yet found (in June) in some of the gulches, we found a stock ranch where a large herd of fat cattle attested the value of the native grasses. The owner informed us that he had taken little pains to feed or shelter the animals in winter, even at this altitude. Fort Collins — Is located on the south-side of the Cache la Poudre, distant from Cheyenne 50 miles, and having an elevation above sea level of 4,815 feet. It is the county seat of Larimer county, and the principal trading point in the upper end of the valley. Population, 700. Has a bank, newspaper, two good hotels, extensive flouring mills, etc. Among the points of interest for the tourist are Rists Cache la Poudre and' Moore Canons, distant from six to ten miles. The Cache la Poudre here affords a superb water-power. Fort Collins is general headquarters for hunters and tourists. Duck-hunting is always good up or down the river; a single hunter of our acquaintance having killed nearly 300 of the mallard and other varieties during a two weeks' sojourn in the fall of 1877. The completion of the Colorado Central Railway has served to give the town and vaUey new life, and evidences of increased prosperity are already apparent in the numerous improvements in vogue. Among the railway company's improve- ments here will be noticed a large and handsome brick passenger and freight depot. Water-tanks. — Passengers almost invariably note a peculiarity of the hand- some brick and frame water-tanks which are found by the side of nearly every mountain stream en route. No pump, windmill or pipe is apparent, but the purest of mountain water pours into the tender at almost every halt. The rapid fall of the streams has been utilized by tapping them half a mile above "the AMERICAN" SWITZERLAND." 43 the track, laying iron pipes beneath the ground and carrying the water along until sufficient "head" has been gained, when the pipe is turned upward into the tank on the principal of a syphon. The pipes are below the freezing line, and are therefore, always on duty, while the amount of water in the tank is regulated by a suitable ' ' escape- ' ' Rapid Settlement. — The advent of the railroad here, as elsewhere, has stimu- lated settlement and development to a marked degree. The rich and more con- Tenientiy irrigated valley lands were put under cultivation ten or a dozen years ago, while the warm, sandy uplands went begging. It has been demonstrated in the last few years that these uplands give the most reliable and wonderful yields of wheat, and during the past fall and winter they have been taken up or purchased on every hand. As we fairly left the valley of the Cache la Poudre, we found hundreds of these new homesteads, many of them plowed up and built upon during the first few months after the iron horse sounded his greeting. It is estimated that the acreage of wheat will be easily increased one-third during 1878, and that the yield in the four great wheat counties bordering the Colorado Central railway will not fall short of 1,600,000 bushels. Remembering that we were in the garden spot of Colorado, that nearly every acre of all that grand region will be rendered abundantly productive, and that not half the area has yet been utilized, we cannot but think of the wealth of possibility in store. Loveland. — Distance from Cheyenne, 61 miles; altitude, about 4,800 feet. Loveland was founded during the building of the road, and was named in honor of the president of the company. It is located on the broad and level bench lands on the north side of Big Thompson river. Forty-five bushels of wheat per acre were produced last season on the ground now occupied by the fine brick depot, and from the plat since partially laid out as a town- site were hai-vested nearly 10,000 bushels, just as the graders of the Colorado Central were ready to sink their spades. '' Uncle Davy Barnes," known all over Colorado as a pioneer, owned the 200 acres which produced this handsome yield, and his crop receipts for the season enabled him to build an extensive grist-mill on the river-bank near by. The town consists of several handsome brick business houses and a dozen lesser frame buildings, and draws its support from the thickly settled Big Thompson Valley. The pretty little village of St. Louis is located a mile below in the same valley. Big Thompson Valley has always been noted for the ex- cellence of its crops, these embracing wheat, oats, barley, all hardy kinds of vegetables, and the small-eared varieties of corn. The principal features of valley, stream and soil, are identical with those of the Cache la Poudre. Estes P«rA'.— Rapidly growing into favor as a pleasure resort, and a nook now destined to leap to the front rank, is Estes Park, twenty-five miles west of Loveland, at the northeast base of Long's Peak. The first ten miles of the wagon road thither is first-class, and the remainder, with improvements to be put upon it early in 1878, will be one of the most charming mountain highways in the Rockies. Stages will commence regular trips early in the season. The Park is a beautiful little mountain- locked basin, 9,000 feet above the sea, its surface composed of meadows and groves, with here and there the prettiest trout brooks imaginable. "Camping out" can here be enjoyed to the utmost. As one visitor says it is " replete with grassy slopes, crystalline streams that course down from the melting snow-banks, broad zones of pine forests, towering 44 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. heights of mountains and shady nooks. It is just such a resort as the sportsman dehghts in, or the tourist loves to frequent. The streams are filled with trout; the pines abound with noble game." The ascent of Long's Peak, 14,271 feet above the sea, can best be made from here, and is in itself an episode worth a visit to Colorado. The great gorge leading from the Park into the heart of the mountain, with vertical walls of 3,000 feet, is one of the awe-inspiring attractions. No wonder that haughty Englishman, the Earl of Dunraven, has been working so pei'sistently to establish his title to twenty or thirty thousand of the best acres of Estes Park. With its battlements that would have crazed a Roman conqueror; its forest homes of the elk and deer; its streams that vie with Scotland's purest, and its thousand acre gardens of richest grasses and most delicate flowers — we say with all these and much more, can a British earl be blamed for coveting it? A European lord of the sixteenth century would have sacrificed half of his most trusty followers in the gaining of such magnificent possess ons and thought his conquest cheap at that. The McGregor House, an excellent mountain hostelry, is located in the Park, as well as lesser institutions of this class. Board can be obtained at from $1.50 to $3.50 p T day. The only stage line heretofore entering the Park was from Longmont, but Loveland's accessibility, as already noted, will lead to increased facilities of entry from that point, in time for the travel of 1878. Great Irrigating Enterprise. — As we journeyed southward from Loveland, we- crossed the broad dividing plateau lying between the Big and Little Thompsons. This country is ranked among the best for farming in the State, but suffers from having no adequate irrigating facilities. A project is now well under way^ however, which will remove this drawback. A canal twenty-five feet wide and three feet deep is to be constructed froui a point on the Big Thompson, just inside the mountains, out over this divide, and thus throw thousands of pro- ductive acres of high lands open to settlement. Berihoud. — Descending again we crossed Little Thompson valley at Ber- thoud, 69 miles on our way from the Union Pacific. The station is new, like all other features of the road, and was named in honor of Captain Berthoud, the well known chief engineer of the Colorado Central. The valley of the Little Thompson is less extensive than those of its neighboring streams and the atten- tion of settlers has thus far been mainly given to stock raising. The breeding of blooded horses, cattle and sheep is the favorite branch of business there. The valley is always represented at the State Fair with fine roadsters. Shorthorn cattle and Merino sheep, and selections from these flocks and herds are being rapidly introduced into the best stock ranches of the west. View of the Mountains. — We enjoyed an ever changing vista of the Rocky Mountains from the first, as our course was parallel with them and only from, five to ten miles away. But while sweeping over the high divide between the Little Thompson and St. Vrain we were more than ever impressed with their majesty and grandeur. Long's Peak, well named the " American Matterhom," seemed but a pleasant hour's walk away, while Gray's Peak and Pike's Peak — all nearly as high as Mt. Blanc — furnished fitting limit to the view 100 miles south and 75 miles west. We passed this point of glorious review late in the afternoon, when the setting sun tinged the long expanse of snowy crests with royal purple and the richest tints of carmine; even the rugged sides and depths 4(5 TO THli KOCKIES AND BEYOND. and verdure of the lower ranges were brought to our vision with indescribable- beauty and clearness. Long after the day-god had dropped behind the curtain which veils a continent, the sky was touched with tints which art can never copy. Verily, a sunset in the Rocky Mountains can never be reproduced, either in art here or in nature elsewhere. Longmonf — 78 miles, a thriving village of 700 inhabitants, in the beautiful St. Vrain Valley. Altitude, 4,957 feet. The name of the town was suggested by its majestic sentinel, Long's Peak, while the creek, whose crystal waters flow through every street, is inseparably connected in history with the veteran explorer and trader, Colonel St. Vrain. One of the Colonel's first fur-trading posts was Fort St. Vrain, located some twenty miles below and occupied more than forty years ago, when Fort Pierre, on the Missouri river, was the nearest similar refuge for the adventurous spirits of the Northwestern fur companies. Longmont boasts three flouring mills, two hotels, two weekly newspapers, a bank, and other necessary adjuncts to the well being of a thrifty out west town. Through the liberality of the railway managers and the enterprise of local deal- ers in produce the town has been rendered quite an important shipping point. Thousands of tons of hay and grain from St. Vrain and Left Hand valleys are being shipped to Denver and the mountain towns. TJiirty thousand bushels of wheat were raised in the vicinity and marketed there the past season. There is a tri- weekly stage line from there to Estes Park. Distance, 32 miles; fare $5. Several lakes in the vicinity afford excellent duck-hunting and the upper St. Vrain, fifteen miles distant, is noted for its trout. The mountains now seemed to make their sharpest curve to the southeast, and as we whirled across the valley of St. Vrain and Left Hand, toward Boulder, we pointed straight for them. Ni "Wot, 84 miles, is a small station for the convenience of the thickly settled agricultural districts thereabouts. Seven miles more across this fertile continuation of Colorado's wheat granary, right under the shadow of the rocky cliffs and we were at Boulder — 91 miles; elevation, 5,536 feet; population 3,000. Boulder bids fair to rank third if not second in the list of Colorado's cities. The city now holds within its ambitious grasp the combined commerce of valley and mountain for many miles. Within a radius of twenty miles are the thickly settled farm- ing regions of North and South Boulder creek. Left Hand and St. Vrain creeks; the great silver mines of Caribou and Nederland; the gold mines of Gold Hill I Sunshine, Tellurium, Salina, Magnolia, Jamestown, Sugar Loaf, Left Hand and other districts, and the Erie, Davidson, Marshall, Barber and half a dozen other coal deposits. Large deposits of iron ore of good grade are also found in sight of the city. These are all made thoroughlj- tributary to Boulder by a splendid system of wagon roads and stage lines pro- vided by her sagacious citizens. Her grand cafion is simply a mountain gate- way at the entrance of which all these interests concentrate. Boulder has two railroads, with a third in course of construction, two tele- graph lines, three good hotels, two newspapers, smelting works, two flouring mills, two national banks, a fine system of water works and the Colorado State University. The latterwas completed two years ago costing $40,000. Its dimen- sions are 97x112 feet, four stories high. It occupies a commanding position in full view of our road on an eminence south of the city. Unexcelled water power, abundance of fuel and other auxiliaries combine to render Boulder a splendid 48 TO THE ROCKIES AXD BEYOND. field for manufacturing enterprise. Already the principal fork of the creek ia strung with mills, smelters, crushers and concentrating works far up into the mountains. But the supply of ores from the mineral belts above and of wheat from the fertile valleys below overflows these and is to a large extent carried to other points. Indicating the amount of travel and business here it may be stated that the two principal hotels registered 15,000 arrivals during 1877; one bank does an exchange business of $500,000 per annum; the post office issued and paid money orders amounting to over $50,000 and handled 500,000 mes- sages in 1877. Annual faii-s are held here in the interest of agriculture, stock- raising and kindred pursuits. Boulder county is third on the list in the State in the amount of taxable wealth possessed. The total valuation for 1877 was $3,152,260; acres assessable, 110,151; wheat raised, 500,000 bushels; hay, 30,000 tons; average yield of wheat per acre, 30 bushels; average yield of each acre cultivated, $30; total value of farm crops for the year $1,800,000; estimated yield of mines, $800,000. The officials in making this report add that only one-third of the agricultural area, of the county is utilized. The value of manufactured articles is placed at $500,000. Only claiming a population of 12,000 Boulder county, therefore, pro- duces an average of over $250 for every man, iroman and child within her bor- ders. What community of producers in the east can make such a showing? Indicating social culture is the item that the citizens are taxed over $20,000 for musical instruments, and Boulder county is but a fair average of the others whose resources, progress and attractions are linked inseparably with the history and stimulating influence of the Colorado Central Railway. The Mines. — Among the hundreds of rich mines which are tributary and send their treasure down through Boulder are the "American," gold, at Sun- shine, 5 miles distant, yield in 1876 and 1877 $230,000; "John Jay," gold, on Jim creek, 13 miles distant, yield for the past twenty-two months $70,000; " Melvina," gold, 9 miles, yield $138,000 in twenty-eight months; " Ni Wot," gold, in Ward district, 25 miles, has turned out $500,000; " Caribou," silver, at Caribou, 22 miles, has produced nearly $1,000,000 and sold for $3,000,000 to German capitalists a few years ago; "No Name" and "Sherman," Caribou, silver, have produced $250,000. The ores of Boulder county mines are essen- tially " high grade " and yields of special lots have often been enormous. For instance, the " Melvina " ships small lots of ore nearly every month which yield from $5,000 to $14,000 per ton. The average yield of all the ore sold has been 28 cents per pound. The visitor can step into Church's sampling and crushing works at Boulder, almost any day, and see ore from the "Smuggler" which yields ^re dollars per pound in gold. Ore from the " John Jay " has averaged $1,000 per ton for the past six months. "American" ore assays all the way from $100 to $100,000 per ton, and one lot of five tons shipped to the Omaha Smelting Works yielded $27,500 to the owners of the mine. The coal mines of Boulder county are of great extent and value, and have yielded over 100,000 tons the past year. The product is entirely bituminous, selling at Boulder at $2 to $3 per ton. Miners get from 75 cents to $1.15 per ton for mining. Distances, Rates, Altitudes, etc. — Following are prominent points tributary to Boulder, with their altitudes above sea level, distance from the city and modes and expense of reaching them: "THE AMERICAN SWITZERLAND." 49 Boulder to Miles. Altitudes. Conveyance. Fare. Boulder Falls, Boulder Canon 10 G,800 Tri- weekly stage. $1.50 Bear Canon 4 5,600 * Caribou 23 9,200 Tri-weekly stage. 3.50 Estes Park 35 8,000 Semi-weekly " 5.0C Gold Hill 10 7,100 Daily " 1.50 Gold Lake 15 8,000 * Hot Springs, Middle Park 63 8,000 * Springilale, Seltzer Springs 12 6,200 Tri-weekly stage. 2.00 Long's Peak 45 14,252 * Magnolia 8 6,500 Daily " 1.25 Nederland 18 8.800 Tri-weekly " 3.00 Kollinsville 23 8,000 " " 3.50 Sunshine 5 6,500 Daily " 1.00 Sugar Loaf 10 8,500 " " 1.50 Salina 9 0,400 " " 1.40 Health and Pleasure Resorts. — Boulder and vicinity are prolific in these. Down the valley, within a radius of ten miles, are dozens of pretty lakes which are the favorite resort of geese, ducks and brant. Half a day's drive, over smooth valley roads, will take the sportsman to four or five of these, and land him back at his hotel door, with his game pouch full, if he is anything of an expert. Among the mountains back of the city, bear, deer and grouse abound, while liigh up the streams mountain trout are ever ready to tempt the angler. The principal mineral waters are at Springdale on James creek, 12 miles distant, at an altitude of 6,120 feet. The drive is one of the finest in Colorado, the loca- tion of the Springs a perfect little gem of loveliness in the midst of rich mines, and hotel accommodations are first-class at the moderate price of $2 per day. The water bubbles from the bottom of a large basin in the solid rock, is a lively, sparkling seltzer, highly recommended for scrofula, dyspeptic and blood disorders and of the following component parts : J Grains. Sulphate of soda 129.12 Carbonic of lime-bi-carbonate in the water 52.00 Chloride of sodium 5.96 Iodide and bromide of sodium 1.56 Bi-carbonate of soda 6.56 Bi-carbonate of iron 4.80 Bi-carbonate of magnesia 80 Silicate of soda in the water 4.80 Weight of contents of one gallon • - 205.60 The drives are numbered by dozens and compass every phase jf mountain and plainland scenery. Of course no visitor would miss Boulder Canon, for that is to Colorado what the Yo Semite is to California. A famous writer says : " We have read of Alpine scenery and of the Yosemite Valley, and have seen Niagara Falls, Delaware Water Gap and the passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge, and we pronounce them all as tame and common-place when compared with the scenery of this wonderful caiion." Entering the canon just above the city the road for miles winds in and out, at times overhanging the stream, then crossing by primitive bridges and on and up the magnificent rocky opening. Here the walls running up majestically 2,000 feet, there a stretch of flower- decked roadside, below always the crystal stream, foaming and leaping from ♦Private conveyance; carriage hire, single team, $5.00 per day; double, $8.00. 4 50 TO THE ROCKIES AXD BEYOND. shelf to shelf in its hurry to reach the plain. The eye never tires of this infinite variety and blending of rocks and dell, refreshing foliage and inviting gorges. Ten miles up are the Falls, and no tourist should stop short of these. The water drops some forty or fifty feet from the shelving rock into a deep, narrow pool, presenting amid the giant buttresses on either side a charming sight. This ride can be made in half a day, if the visitor is hun-ied, or can be extended indefi- nitely up to the mining camps near Nederland and Caribou, and on over to Middle park, if desired, as an excellent mountain roadway is laid thither. Stages pass the Falls daily in summer; fare up and back, $2.50. A fine two-days' ride is from Boulder to the Sunshine gold mines — through pine-covered foot-hills and along the sparkling Gold Run — 6 miles; to Gold Hill and Gold Lake — a grand climb among rich mines and to one of the pretti- est sheets of water in the Rockies — 10 miles ; to Camp Providence — location of the John Jay mine — 6 miles; to Jamestown, down James Creek, 4 miles; to Springdale — location of the celebrated Seltzer Springs and Big Blossom mine — 2 miles; return to Boulder over Buckingham's toll road, 14 miles; total, 42 miles. Springdale would be the best point to remain at over night. This jaunt covers the richest mining region, and the choicest mountain as well as valley views. Or for parts of a day go to Sunshine, 6 miles; Gold Hill, 3; Salina, 3; return to Boulder through Boulder Canon, 9; total, 21 miles. Another favorite route is from Boulder into Bear Canon — a charming piece of scenery — to the mines of Magnolia District, 11 miles; return down through Boulder Canon, 8 miles; total, 19. Board at Boulder is $2 to $3 per day, and at all mountain towns adjacent will average |2 per day. Toll on mountain roads will average $3 per day, and, as before stated, outside rates on livery teams are $5 and $8. A first-class omnibus line transfers passengers from all trains. Resuming the journey we passed Lakeside, 94 miles, named from a lake on the left of the road; Davidson, 98 miles, the principal coal mining town on the line; Coal Creek, 100 miles; Church's, 109; Ralston, 115; all simply sidings for the accommodation of local trade and the large freight trafiic. Two miles west of Ralston are the Ralston Coal Mines. Unlike most other western coal deposits, these veins are vertical. In the two mines it is estimated that over 6,000,000 tons of a fair quality of soft coal are "in sight." A narrow gauge railway, connecting the mines with the Colorado Central, is in course of con- struction. Golden. — One hundred and seventeen mUes; altitude, 5,729 feet; is the county seat of Jefterson county, and claims a population of 3,000. Golden is already called the " Colorado Birmingham " from its favorite situation for man- ufacturing and its rapid progress in that line. The city lies just within the first foot-hills, 15 miles west of Denver, Springing from the mouth of one of the grandest of canons, three-fourths of a mile above the city proper and flowing through the heart of the town, is Clear Creek. For the first mile of its course after leaving the mountains the stream falls some 75 feet, and as the volume of water exceeds that of any other stream in northern Colorado, except that of the Platte, it furnishes a degree of power that can scarcely be calculated, much less fully utilized. Both sides of the stream are already strung with busy wheels. We first T>2 TO Till-; KOCKIES AND Ui:VUNI). noticed the extensive shops of Lhe Colorado Central Railway, which cover several acres of ground, and are being rapidly enlarged. Here pa^senger and Ireight cars are built, engines rebuilt, and every tipeties of railroad repairing i\ccom- plishcd. A short distance south of these are the Golden Snjeliiug Work-, out- growths of the great mining industry in the mountains above, which turned out $300,000 in gold and silver during 1877. Ciose at hand are works engaged in smelthig copper from the valuable copper mines located H miles south of Golden, on Bear Creek. These works treat six tons of copper ore per day, obtaining therefrom 10 per cent of copper and an average of 30 ounces of silver per ton. Farther up the stream, in the heart of the city, are three large flour- ing mills, which turn out 30,000 sacks of flour per annum. The extensive buildings of the Golden Paper Works — the only institution of the kind between Omaha and Salt Lake City — are next noticed. The mills, run by water power, supply the newspapers of the State and show a business of $25,000 per year. Two companies are engaged in manufacturing fire-br ck, tile and pottery from the superior clay found near by. The Union Pacific and Kansas Pacific railways, the Rolling Mills at Laramie City, and Prof. Hill's Smelting Works, at Black Hawk, obtain their tiles, fire brick and dimension brick from this source, while miscellaneous orders are constantly received from points as far east as St. Louis, and west to the Pacific ocean. Half a million fire brick and one jmillion red brick were produced during 1877. Fire brick sell at $50 per 1,000 ,for first quality, and $35 for second. The Trenton Smelting and Dressing Works is a very extensive establishment, in the upper part of the city, for the treatment of gold and silver ores; capital, $150,000; capacity, 10 tons per day. A New Jersey company is at the helm and has bright prospects before it, as thousands of tons of ore await treatment in the diflferent mining camps from 20 to 40 miles above. Then there are planing mills, breweries, a foundry, etc., all combined, rendering Golden not only a very impoiiant and productive center, but an interesting one for the tourist as well. Besides the copper mines already noted, there are within the limits of the town three coal banks, which are being placed in condition to easily yield 400 tons of coal per day, and splendid deposits of hematite of iron and magnetic iron in sight of the city. What has been said of Boulder in connection with the mining interests is especially applicable to Golden. The mines of Gilpin and Clear Creek counties, which have furnished three-fourths of all Colorado's gold and silver yield, have no other outlet or transfer point, and through imperative freaks of nature, they never can have. Clear Creek Canon has proved a giant causeway, through which millions of treasure have been poured, as well as a mighty and wonderful chasm to be sought and admired by the travelers of two ■hemispheres. The general offices of the Colorado Central Railway are located at Golden, and here the narrow gauge divisions branch off to the mountains. The main line continues its course onward to Denver, while, as a matter of convenience for southern travel and shipments, an additional narrow gauge division is being constructed south to Acequia, on the Denver & Rio Grande Railway, some 16 miles distant. Jarvis Hall, Colorado's most notable college for young men, is located here. The institution has numbered among its pupils residents of many different states and territories, and gains ground in popular favor eveiy day. It is noticed that youth of the east, who from their delicate organism and tendency 54 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. to disease, cannot, in those latitudes, endure the sedentary life necessary to the acquirement of an education, here prosecute their studies and gain a new lease ot life at the same time. This atmosphere, itself a tonic, this almost perpetual sunshine, and these exhilarating walks in Nature's charming by-ways, tell the whole story. The State School of Mines is also located here. Among the most pleasant drives are those to Bergen Park, a lovely little basin near Bear Creek Canon, where trout, wild flowers and shaded picnic gi'ounds are leading attractions, 8 miles; to Brookvale, well up in the mountains, where will be found good fishing and nice hotel accommodations, 12 miles; Cresswell, a ride abounding in beautiful valley and mountain landscapes, 6 miles; "Table Rock" is a prominent attraction in the immediate vicinity, rising nearly 1,000 feet above the town on the east. INTO THE AMERICAN SWITZERLAND. Clear Creek Cailon. — Of course one of our principal objects in visiting Col- orado was to explore the wonders of Clear Creek Canon and to dive into the mysteries of the gold and silver mines beyond. So at Golden we entered the neat and cosy little carriages of the throe-feet gauge and commenced the really novel part of an interesting journey. Go with us, reader, on this exciting climb, and enjoy the richest two hours feast afforded on any railroad track in the world. The ascent commences at once, and soon we reach the narrow opening which constitutes the mouth of the canon. Lofty foot-hills, covered with stunted pines and jutting rocks, crowd close on either side. In a moment these are lost in the mightiest mountain walls themselves. Across the sti-eam and a hundred feet above it, clinging to the bare and vertical rocks by a net-work of clever timber- ing, is one of the flumes carrying fertility to the thirsty soils of the valley. We follow the foaming, leaping torrent constantly, for we are now between unbroken buttresses rising 2,000 feet above, and forbidding all thought of deviation. Sometimes the stream almost eddies against our track; sometimes we look upon it far below, but still beating our stony parapet. Tlien we cross and re- cross until we are bewildered, and try in vain to believe ourselves going only toward the setting sun. Straight track is unknown. We are on a highway of short tangents, of innumerable short curves. One instant an apparently solid wall runs to the clouds across our track, but in the next we are twisting sharply around or under it, our cars creaking with the strain. At times a path has been blasted from the mountain sides for oUr little railway, and the fallen frag- ments of granite have turned the stream or thrown its current into a hundred fantastic cataracts and eddies. Steadily we climb at the rate of 170 feet to the mile, ever-chanoing pictures of rarest beauty breaking upon the vision. The frowning rocks grow more terribly sublime, their height increasing and the chasm at times narrowiner until the eye can scarcely scale the summits from the car window. The deep green foliage of the pine is rarely absent, the trees striking root in every cleft and in every grotto. This presents constant striking contrasts to the sombre gray and brown of the rocks. The roadway could not be more attractive or secure, for it is carved out of the solid rock, or else where it has been crowded into the stream the ties are imbedded in masonry. The bridges are built of iron; the station houses at places hang over the thundering stream by a system of architecture peculiarly their own. "THE AMERICAN SWITZERLAND." 55 We pass under hanging rock and can touch the wall on one side from the platform. " Mother Grundy, " far up on the beetling crags, seems ready to gos- sip on this grand achievement of railway engineering, and Nature has chiseled her out enduringly. Eight miles from Golden is the romantic station of Beaver Brook. — A mountain brooklet of the same name here finds access to the creek through a deep gorge and by a series of pretty cascades. Up to the left, on a cliff overlooking the track, is a dancing and picnic pavilion. It is reached by a long staircase from the other gorge, and is a favorite resort for Denver pleasure- seekers. On moonlight summer evenings the canon walls are made to echo with music and laughter from this wild and curious eyrie. Fra- grant flowers and beautiful ferns abound here, clinging to the crevices in the rocks and enlivening Beaver Gulch. The Law of Exchange. — We pass a heavily loaded freight on its way to the mines and mills. Soon after we meet one equally heavily laden speeding to the valley by the simple power of gravitation. Let us see what they caiTy. The one ascending has among other items a car-load of salt, from Great Salt Lake, which came via the Union Pacific all this distance, and is now being takes to the great smelting works above, to perform its part in separating the metals from the ore. " Another car bears hay from valley meadows to mountain stables. Mule-power is a grand lever up there, and can't be perpetuated with- out hay. Then there is an immense steam engine and mining machinery occu- pying another car. There will be thousands more before the ore channels are all developed, for mining is in its infancy here. Other cars are loaded with tons of flour, beef, groceries, vegetables and mining supplies of every nature. And this is only one train. Sometimes there are two or three a day, and this con- tinues every day in the year, for mining communities produce only gold and sil- ver. Everything else must go to them through this narrow and ever-beautiful pathway. Coming down on the other train there was what ? Gold from Central ! Sil- ver from Georgeiown! Here was business on a specie basis, sure enough, and the simplicity of the transaction renders comment unnecessary. A few miles above Beaver Brook the north and south forks of Clear Creek unite. One comes from the rich gold mining x-egions of Black Hawk and Cen- tral, the other from silver-crowned Georgetown. To penetrate and develop Colorado's two greatest mineral belts the railway has been extended up both of these canons, past the mills and over and into the very mines themselves. "Forks Creek" is, therefore, quite an important junction, much freight business con- solidating here, and no little passenger travel changing from one line to the other. We have taken the train for Central, and so pass up the north fork. The Gulch Mines. — We are now in the very heart of the Rocky Mountains, where the giant barriers break away and assume new form and texture. Down below us are the gulches where, from 1859 to 1865, surged the feverish thou- sands, and where the yields of "dust" were reckoned in millions. Since that the gravel has been worked over many times, and it is estimated yet that almost as much gold has been lost as has ever been saved. As the gi'ound be- comes too "lean" for the average miner the Chinaman steps in and makes from one to three dollars per day. We can see large gangs of the Celestials at work, and have an opportunity of studying gulch mining practically. Smelting Works. — Just before entering Black Hawk we notice, on the right, 56 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. the Boston and Colorado Smelting Works. These are among the most exten- sive in the United States, and will well repay half a day's examination. They were established to treat gold ore in 1867, and with improvements since made the buildings cover five acres of ground. A capital of nearly $1,000,000 is con- stantly employed. Seventeen furnaces are in constant operation, smelting sixty tons of ore daily, at an expense of over $500 per day for fuel and labor alone. The smelting of silver ores was not undertaken until in 1873. Since that period eighty-five tons of pure silver have been sent from the works. The product, in silver and gold, since the first, has been as follows : 1868 $ 270,886 1869 489,875 1870 652,339 1871 848.571 1872 999,954 1878 1,210,670 1874 1,638.877 1875 1,947,000 1876 1,995,000- 1877 2,154,000 Total $13,207,16^ THE GREAT GOLD REGION. Twenty- two hundred feet above our point of entrance at the caiion, and twenty-two miles from Golden, is Black Hawk. A mile farther up is Central, and for twomiles up the gulch from the latter place is an almost unbroken line of mining towns and mining enterprises. The first sight of these mountain, towns is not easily forgotten. Far up the giddy slopes hang cottages seem- ingly ready to topple one upon another. In the ravines below are busy, bustling- streets, lined with quartz teams and all manner of vehicles. Frank Fosset, Esq., of Central, describes the scene in this manner: "A main thoroughfare three miles in length winds among these granite hills, whose interiors are honey-combed with shafts, levels and tunnels. Beside the muddy stream lofty chimneys of huge smelting works are always burning. Beyond are stamp mills, whose stamps thunder with never-ceasing industry. Night and day the same- work goes on unintermittingly, week after week, year after year. Down in the- depths, hundreds of feet from the sunlight, are other cities, less habitable but. equally active. Here, by the dim candle light, hundreds of men wield the drill, pick and shovel, delving for the hidden wealth of centuries. These mines be- neath the city help to swell the millions that steadily find their way into the- channels of commerce." Although one of the smallest counties, Gilpin (covering the mining region) has furnished half of the mineral yield of the state and is increasing its produc- tion yearly. The mineral belt here is about ten miles wide, extending into neighboring counties. The production in gold and silver, up to the present, has- been as follows: 58 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. Pi-evions to 1870 $25,000,000 For 1870 ] .267.900 " 1871 1.378,100 " 1872 1.389,289 " 1873 1.440.502 " 1874 1,695.804 " 1875 2,010,391 " 1876 2.135,000 " 1877 2,300,000 Total for Gilpin county in 19 years $38,610,986 Eighteen quartz mills are at present at work, turning out about $5,000 in gold daily. Among the principal mines are the "Gregory," depth 900 feet, total yield 19,000,000; "Bobtail," 650 feet, yield $4,000,000; "Gunnell," 650 feet, yield $2,500,000; "Burroughs," 1,000 feet, yield $1,500,000; "Kansas," 690 feet, yield $1,500,000. There are many others which have produced all the way from $500,000 to $1,000,000. In 1877 there were less than 1,500 men engaged in mining, milling and kindred pursuits, and their production amounted to ^2,300,000, or over $1,500 for every man engaged. The prosperity has really just commenced. It is as enduring as the hills, and with the excellent facilities now afforded for transportation by the Colorado Central Railway must soon in- crease many fold. Mining has developed from chance and guess work into a grand science. The ore channels are as numerous as the veins on our hands. They were never richer, never in such trim to yield the royal metals as to-day. These towns combined have a population of about 5,000, Central being the county-seat and the acknowledged center of trade. It is solidly built of brick and stone, contains three banks, the Teller House — one of the finest hotels in Colorado — two daily newspapers and a fine institution of learning. Altitude, 8,389 feet. Railroading Anion fj the Mines. — Leaving Black Hawk, our track runs up the right side of the gulch among the mills and past the open mouths of mining tunnels. Reaching Bates Hill we turn quickly to the left, leap the two princi- pal streets of the city on a splendid iron bridge, and by sevei-al " tangents," at a heavy grade, soon find ourselves 500 feet above the bustling streets and busy mills, pushing steadily across rich mineral veins for Central. We cross the famous Gregory, Briggs and Bobtail mines, which are now producing $50,000 per month in gold. We have only a mile and a half of actual distance to make, but travel four miles in order to surmount the wonderful grade. Clinging to the rugged sides of Mammoth Hill, overlooking the entire gulch, we have a view of snowy peaks, pine-covered mountains, mining enterprises and cities which leaves a life-time impress. James Peak, with its glittering summit of snow and ice, stands a fitting sentinel over all. From Central the road is to be extended at once to the silver mines of Caribou, eighteen miles distant. This extension will pass through some heavy forest and along the best mineral veins. The forest is quite an item, as timber is a great desideratum in mining, and is very scarce at these points. Indicating the present business of the road is the item that about 30,000 tons of freight are received by it at Black Hawk annually. Points for the Tourist. — A week can always be spent profitably and pleasantly among the mines and mills. To learn how the ore is mined and how CO TO TIIK ROCKIES AND BEYOND. the gold is separated from it, are the first items thought of. Then ride out to Jaraes and Buel Peaks, ten miles, where views of half of Colorado can be obtained, and where the prettiest lakes lie high up among the summits, with their settings of gigantic walls and towering pines. Bellevue and Bald Mountains, 2% and 1% miles, respectively, are admired localities, and can easily be visited together in half a day. The shortest trail to Hot Springs, Middle Park, is from Central via James Peak, distance 44 miles. First-class hotels at Central, $4 per day; carriage hire, $8 to |12. Instead of returning to the Forks of the Creek and going from thence up to Idaho Springs and Georgetown by rail, we took a carriage through the noted Virginia canon to Idaho, 6 miles. En route are fine views of the snowy range, and the trip down Virginia canon is one of the most enjoyable on the line. Much of the descent is at the rate of 600 feet to the mile, but the roadway is everywhere in excellent trim. Idaho Springs. — A lovely watering place in the valley of South Clear Creek, 34 miles from Denver by rail. Elevation, 7,800 feet. The village contains some 500 inhabitants, whose principal occupation is mining; the gulches here still yielding abundantly, and a number of good quartz mines being vigorously worked. The locality is not only greatly favored as a summer resort, but captivates many to prolonged winter sojourns. The delightful coolness of sum- mer nights is always noted, and the clear, sunny days of v/inter woo visitors to the open air almost constantly. The valley is here shelteretl by several very high and noted landmarks, the " Old Chief," " Squaw " and " Papoose " being among the number, and lifting their heads from 10,000 to 11,000 feet above the sea. The famous Soda Springs, however, are the grand attraction. There are eight of these, ranging in temperature from 60 to 110 degrees. Two large swimming baths, and numerous smaller apartments for hot and cold shower baths are at hand, with such convenient features as dressmg rooms, waiting rooms, etc. Following is an analysis of these waters, the constituents being from one gallon : Carbonate of Soda SO.SO Carbonate of Lime 9.53 Carbonate of Magnesia ■ . . . . 2.88 Carbonate of Iron 4.13 Sulphate of Soda 29.36 Sulphate of Magnesia 18.73 Sulphate of Lime 3.44 Chloride of Sodium 4.16 Chlorides of Cilciuin and Magnpsimn, of each a trace. Silicate of Soda 4.08 Grains 107.08 Cold mineral springs are also found near by, the waters of one being especially effervescont and sparkling. Soda, iron and sulphur seem to be present in these. The medicinal properties of all the Idaho Springs waters are very marked. The sensation produced by a plunge in the great swimming baths is simply delightful, and for rheumatic affections has proved wonderfully efficacious. There are numerous resorts close at hand where all can spend hours or months of pleasure. Pleasant drives lead to half a dozen picturesque mining "THE AMEiaCAX SWITZEKLAND." 61 camps; winding trails extend to the summits of adjacent mountains, and seciu.^ed highways for the pedestrian penetrate nature's wildest nooks. The Eeebee Zouse is a good, comfortable mountain hotel; transient rates, $3 per day. Livery is abundant at same rates as at Central. Good deer hunting in the mountains within half a day's ride. Trout-fishing in Fall river, 3 miles. An additional commodious and well-appointed hotel is soon to be erected. A valuable feature of this will be the introduction of the hot soda water direct from the springs into a large proportion of the rooms by means of iron pipes. Facilities for hot and cold water bathing will be supplied separately from each chamber, and the invalid can enjoy all the comforts of an elegant home, together with the finest mineral baths, without leaving his rooms. An ex- hilarating atmosphere and healing waters; in the midst of noble pines and enchanting scenery; fishing, hunting, riding and exploring; an ever-fruitful field for the exercise of the mind in the mining, milling and railway enterprises — these, together with an easy accessibility, are a few of the attributes which in the future will render Idaho Springs one of the most popular of Rocky mountain resorts. "Old Man of the Mountains.'''' — Again taking passage on the narrow gauge, and speeding up the valley to Fall river, 2}^ miles, we passed at the very base of this noted landmark, and all were out for a view. It consists of an excellent profile of a man's head, chiseled by nature out of the rocks, four or five hundred feet above the track. Across the creek is the Fall River House, also quite a stopping place for pleasure travel. Fall river enters Clear creek just below, bearing in its sparkling waters a suggestion of the speckled beauties to be found a mile or two above. Every foot of the road continued to present some new and interesting feature, f ome glorious and unrivaled view of snowy peak, or nearer glimpse of rush- L\g creek and shaded valley. We kept close to the water's edge, and passed srme pretty falls of man's construction, and occasionally saw the miners at work among the golden sands. Quartz mining enterprises are not wanting. We had entered the " silver belt, " however, and found the mountains much more precipitous than in the gold region — hence more interesting to the seeker of wonders. Georgetown — well named the "Silver Queen" — is distant from Denver 52 miles close under the " Snowy Range," at an altitude of 8,412 feet. The valley here is nearly a mile wide, reasonably level, and the mountains rise up ruggt d and abrupt on three sides to a height of nearly 2,000 feet. Two branc les of the stream come leaping down'through the streets from either side, and the visitor may expect to see the handsomest city in the Rockies — none could be more eligibly located and few have made better use of natural charms. The ciiy has a population of 5,000 — all directly or indirectly interested in mining. You scv silver bricks at the banks and smelters, you stumble over huge masses of silver ore at your hotel and on the street corners, and go where you will the windows and counters are lined with specimens of the glittering mineral. The inhabitants are fairly charged with mining enthusiasm and confidence in the*" town. If you are incredulous at their kindly offered information why <7«ere are the bricks! Georgetown has enjoyed a marvelous degree of prosperity. The splendid business houses, schools, residences, water works and smelting works are living monuments. The town is literally surrounded with mountains of G2 TO THE R0CKJE3 AND BEYOND. silver ore, and much of it is of such grade that it has been shipped to Europe for treatment and the bullion returned to America with handsome margin for profit. The railway era has added new faith and prosperity. Ores are now shipped in great quantity to Black Hawk, Denver, Golden, Omaha and across the ocean, which a few years ago were valueless on account of the great cost of transportation. The silver belt here is about 12 miles wide by 20 long. According to Raymond and other reliable authorities, the gold and silver mines of this county (Clear Creek) have produced $14,000,000. The "Dives PeUcan " mine has been the largest producer, having yielded |3, 000,000. Its largest yield for one week was $65,000 in 1874. The " Terrible " has pro- duced its hundreds of thousands, and among others well worth a visit are the "Colorado Central, " "East Roe" and "Equator." All are high up the mountain sides but will well repay the climb. Neighhorhood Attraciions. — Georgetown is unrivaled for the multiplicity, beauty and interest of attractions for the visitor. Green Lake, 2fo miles, is a sheet possessing rare charms for all. It is half a mile long by a quarter wide, hemmed in by high mountains and pine forests. Fine boats are furnished and in a row across the water the visitor can see the wonderful forest of petrified trees standing upright many feet beneath the surface, with thousands of trout swimming among the branches. The lake has been stocked with 40,000 Cali- fornia salmon, 20,000 trout and 200,000 fish of other varieties. Thousands of California salmon are now in the hatching houses on the lake shore. Accom- modations are the best to be had in the mountains. An excellent carriage road leads to Snake River Pass, 9 miles, where the novelty of resting one foot upon the Atlantic and the other on the Pacific Slope, and of picking flowers with one hand and gathering snow with the other can be enjoyed. The view of the Mount of the Holy Cross, and a wide compass of mountain peaks is from here indescribably grand. Only fifteen minutes walk from the city are those won- ders, the Devil's Gate and Bridal Veil Falls. Empire, a pretty gold mining camp where $2,000,000 have been produced, 4 miles; Brownsville, 3; Silver Plume, 2; Summit of Gray's Peak, 15; Chicago Lakes, 8, are among other especially interesting rides and drives. Good saddle ponies at $2 to $3 per day, and teams at $8 to $12. In the city the visitor should not fail to visit the banks, smelting works, and the "Miners Assay Office," where the finest mineral specimens and bullion are always on exhibition and the practical knowledge of the reduction of ores can be obtained. There are two good hotels, the Barton and American, the Barton being a model from parlor to kitchen. Board, $;> per day. From here the railway is in process of construction to Fair Play, South Park, 73 miles, taking in the rich silver mining camps of Silver Plume, Brownsville, -Hall Valley, etc. and penetrating heavy forests of pine. It will be emphatically the " silver belt railway," as it crosses the greatest silver veins of Colorado, often passing the veiy mouths of the tunnels and winding among the ore piles. Its windings far up the mountains in view of Georgetown, through that wonderful gash, the Devil's Gate, and across the summits, develop the most remakable of all railway engineering feats and will place the " Silver Belt Route " ahead of any in the land for interest to the tourist. The rapidly increasing yield of the South Park mines and large stock and lumber interests are items of coveted trade in that direction. 64 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND, Middle Park. — Of the large parks this is by far the finest in all points which •constitute attractions for the health and pleasure-seekers or the sportsman, and oflPers many charms and advantages for those seeking homes. Its accessibility, the wildness, singularity and sublimity of its scenery; the coolness, salubrity and invigorating influences of its climate and its inviting baths; its dozens of rivers and lakes, alive with gamy trout, and its deep solitudes of mountain and forest, only broken as haunts for noble game — these alone render it a mecca to \>e eagerly sought, saying nothing of its myriad charms which could be elabo- rated in appropriate space. We went from Georgetown to Hot Springs, 46 miles, easily in a day; took a delightful plunge in the Hot Sulphur baths, had trout and venison for supper and early next morning rode to the summit of llount Bross, near by, to get a thorough idea of the Park and surroundings. Clearly distinguishable on every side, through the transparent atmosphere, we could see the almost perfect girdle of the Park — the snowy range. Rolled up high against this are pine-covered mountains in every conceivable attitude; then i a the wonderful circular basin known as the " Park, " which has an area of -4,000 square miles, are the grass covered lesser elevations, which would pass for mountains almost anywhere. Nestling among these hills are the hundreds of parks in miniature, nearly every one of which sends its crystal brook toward the tea. Down through the centre of this great basin comes the sparkling, swift- ilowing Grand, its course marked by as fair a valley as human eyes ever beheld, and its sheltering bluffs rising over as cosy and thrifty frontier homes as one could find anywhere. Tributary to it are a dozen streams which may well be ranked as rivers. Of course, standing like ice-clad watch-towers over this lovely scene are such mighty peaks as Mount Lincoln, Long's Peak, Gray's Peak, James Peak and others. The Park has an average elevation of 7,800 feet. The Springs consist of a dozen or more boiling, hissing, sulphur-scented fountains spurting from the crevices of an immense rock overlooking the river and at the base of Mount Bross. The waters of several of the largest fall in one great sheet over the edge into a natural basin and form a deUghtful bath. The temperature is about 110°. Commodious bath houses are furnished, and hotel accommodations are very fair at $3 to $3 per day. Dr. Stedman, a noted physician of the west, has this to say of Hot Springs and vicinity: " For chronic cases, where it is desired to combine change of scene with medical treatment, few places in summer combine more natural attractions than the vicinity of these springs can boast. And with its magnificent river (rightly named the ' Grand'), its wooded and grassy slopes, surrounded by alternate for- est-crowned hills, and abrupt, savage and rocky cliffs, while beyond and encircling all, rise the rough outlines of the 'snowy-range,' one could easily imagine that here might be the place where the waters should gush forth which ■•should be for the healing of the nations.' " Trout- fishing is good almost everywhere, especially so in the upper Grand and at Grand Lake, 25 miles distant. Grand Lake is a sheet of water of un- known depth, about two miles square, environed in fro-wming cliffs and fairly thronged with trout. Elk, deer, mountain sheep, bear and antelope abound, as do water-fowl, sage hens and grouse, almost everywhere. At the southeastern nm of the Park, near the lively gulch mining town of Breckenridge, bear hunt- ing is exceptionally good. No matter what particular species one may fancy he Mount of tiik Holy Cuoss— Xkar Georgetown, Colorado. 66 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOXD. can always be accommodated there. He can meet the kindly " cinnamon " by twilight alone, or he can have half a dozen for company; he can always inter- view one solitary "grizzly " on that lonely path down to the village slaughter house, or, by going a roundabout course, can divide his attention among four or five when he gets there; should he desire one of the large " black" kind, so the saying goes among local hunters, he has only to lariat a tolerably small sized pony with a two -inch cable on a nice little patch of grass in the bottom of a certain gulch just above town; he may proceed to take his morning ride any time after midnight and he will find a fair representative of the black species sitting where his pony ought to be and endeavoring to spit out that two-inch cable. We indiscreetly expressed some curiosity about the bear family in the sitting room of Judge Silverthorne's popular Breckenridge hostehy one evening, and inside of ten minutes were fairly overwhelmed with invitations to attend a black bear re-union up in Negro gulch, a grizzly promenade down Zig-zag Hol- low or a cinnamon breakdown over on Buff"alo Flat. Breckenridge is 60 miles from Hot Springs by a good wagon road. Lakes near by abound in trout of prodigious size and appetite. -Tip-top hotel and livery accommodations. Board $3 per day. Curiosity hunters in the Park are rewarded by the existence in great plenty of agates, petrifactions, amethysts, fossils, chalcedony, etc. The luxuriant grasses are being utilized by fine herds of cattle. The owners are always hos- pitable and in different localities are prepared to entertain guests royally. From Georgetown to the edge of the Park, the distance is 21 miles; to the Springs, 46 miles; Tri- weekly stages ; fare from Georgetown to the Springs, $8. Good roads track the Park in most directions. Saddle ponies can be obtained at the Springs at $1.50 to $3 per day. Board can be obtained in all desirable localities at from $3 to $3 per day. Clear Creek Canon liy Moonlight. — Returning to Georgetown we had the choice of two regular trains per day for Denver. The moon was at its full, and by taking the evening train we were afforded the most sublime ride of our lives. Imagine the effect of the pale rays of the night queen as we twisted and doubled upon our course in the depths of that mighty chasm. Sometimes the rushing waters and canon shades were fairly flooded with the almost vertical beams; suddenly darkness was deeper than before because of our abrupt change of course under the giant battlements. Now our bands of steel gleamed like sil- ver; in an instant all was blackness and confusion. The walls, the fissures, the noisy cataract below, the stars and pine-clad summits above seemed to dance hke the figures of the kaleidoscope, so like magic was it all. Travel "by moon" here, reader, if you can, and never miss its silvery halo on either the up or down trip through Clear Creek canon. Emerging from the Rockies at Golden, we again changed for the coaches of the main broad-gauge line, and descending eastward through the fertile Clear Creek valley soon found ourselves at the metropolis. Dciurr. — Capital and commercial center of Colorado, and sooner or later the grand objective point of nine-tenths of all who visit the state. Distance from Omaha, 648 miles; altitude, 5,344 feet. The city is built on both sides of the South Platte river, fourteen miles from the foothills, commanding one of the finest panoramas of snowy range and timbered mountains in the entire west. Northward 75 miles is Long's Peak: southward the same distance, and always "THE AMEIIICAX SWITZEKLAXD." 67 in perfect view, is Pike's Peak. The view extends still beyond these, being only lost in the sombre outlines of the Black Hills, 125 miles northward, and in the Sangre de Cristo mountains, 150 miles to the south. This gives clear, unbroken sweep for the vision of nearly COO miles, and one that furnishes an endless variety of mountain grouping, from the dark green and purple-tinged pine-lands of the lower ranges to the snowy, silvery summits of a hundred mighty peaks. Denver is a solidly built, well shaded city of 23,000 people. Evidences of refine- ment, wealth and remarkable enterprise greet the visitor on every hand. Long streets and avenues, thickly lined with elegant residences, beautiful shade trees, and tasty yards and garden?, stretch out in every direction from the well-built business centers. It is essentially a city of fine churches and schools, of elaborate public improvements and great private enterprises, of high social culture and an enduring thrift. Attesting its claims on health and pleasure seekers are the facts that nearly one-half of tlie population are reconstructed invalids and that it is the resort of thousands of America's most prominent divines, law-makers and capitalists and of the greatest travelers and nobility of Europe. P. T. Barnum has remarked in a lecture, " Why, Coloradoans are the most disappointed people I ever saw. Two-thirds of them come here to die and they can't do it.'" John Russell Young has long since said, " Denver and Paris are the two cities with which I fell in love at first sight, and in which I have a constant yearning some time or other to reside. I have seen no prettier town in Europe or America than your same Denver." The number of arrivals at Denver hotels in 1877 was 121,000. The growth has been one of great rapidity. Since the first railroad was com- pleted in 1870 the population has increased from 4,000 to 23,000. Six lines of railroad, the Kansas Pacific, Colorado Central, Denver and Rio Grande, Denver Pacific, Denver, South Park and Pacific, and Denver and Boulder Valley, have been completed in these seven years, giving her direct routes to the east, drain- ing all the valuable farming regions of the state and penetrating the heart of the richest mining centers. Her trade has reached $20,000,000 per annum. In 1877 her eight banking institutions sold exchange to the amount of $18,000,000 and cared for nearly $2,500,000 of average deposits. Insurance carried, $6,000,- 000; shipments of cattle, 1877, 8,140 head; value of improvements made, same year, $350,000; manufactured articles, $2,000,000; total amount received in post- office money-order business, $555,000; these items will convey something of an idea of the thrift and importance of the city, commercially. In walks about Denver, there will be especially noticed the splendid Holly water works, ^hich send pure mountain water from the Platte all over the city at the rate of a million gallons per day; three or four lines of street railway, gas works, five fine public school buildings and a widely known ladies' seminary, twenty churches. United States branch mint, half a dozen good hotels, etc. Four daily papers, such as cities twice the size east could not boast, are pub- lished here. These are the pioneer Rocl-i/ Mountain Ncivs, Denver Tribune, Times and Democrat. In brief, Denver is the metropolis of one thousand miles of plain and mountain, the entrepot of the great Rocky Mountain gold and silver mining region, of the stock and agricultural interests of a country larger than all of the states east of Ohio combined, and the sanitarium of admiring thousands. Drives over unexcelled roads radiate in all directions, each having favorite (38 TO THE UOCKIES AXD BEYOXI). points of view of mountain, city and i)lain. In the immediate neighborhood the Boulevards, Central Pa,rk, Swansea Smelting' Works, Villa Park, Sloan's Lake, and the Denver trout ponds, should not be overlooked. Within a dozen miles are a variety of attractions, such as Bear Creek Canyon, Bergen Park, Mt. Ver- non, Morrison Soda Springs, Soda Lakes and Church's Lake. Good duck hunt- ing in the lakes, and trout-fishing near Morrison, in Bergen Park, and near Mt. Vernon. Hotel rates, $2.50 to $4.00 per day; excellent boarding houses furnish accommodations at from |7 to $10 per week. Venison, buffalo, antelope and bear meat, with mountain grouse and trout, are common items of hotel cui- sine. Carriage hire, $4 to $7 per day; good saddle ponies can be obtained at $2 per day. Denver has really the finest omnibus and transfer line in the west- ern country; uniform fares, including baggage, 50 cents. Street car fares, five cents. The Colorado Central and other railways make special excursion rates for tourists, in large or small parties, to all mountain resorts. Rents for cot- tages are from $20 to $35 per month. Expenses of living about 15 per cent higher than east of the Mississippi. SOUTHERN COLORADO AND NEW MEXICO. Colorado Springs and Manitou. — Prominent among the Union Pacific Rail- way connections and feeders in Colorado is the Denver and Rio Grande Railway (narrow gauge), leading directly southward from Denver 220 miles to the borders of New Mexico and the San Juan country, and controlling the immense freight and passenger traffic of that region. Lying near the base of Pike's Peak and 75 miles south of Denver, are Colorado Springs and Manitou, the former on the line of the railroad, and the latter 5 miles distant by carriage road. Mani- tou is famous all over the land as a summer resort, and indeed is becoming quite a favorite rendezvous for travelers in winter. It is situated in one of the wildest and most beautiful of mountain glens, at an altitude of 6,250 feet, possessing as the principal attraction seven noted mineral springs. These springs are named "Manitou," "Navajo," "Comanche," "Shoshone," "Arrapahoe," "Misha Tunga," and " Pawnee," all possessing valuable curative properties. Iron and soda are the prevailing constituents, and the waters from the richest are said to contain an ounce of medicated matter to every four gallons of water. Other attractions in the vicinity are "Garden of the Gods," Canon of the Fountain, Glen Eyrie, Ute Pass and Falls, Cheyenne Mountain and Rainbow Glen. As- cents of Pike's Peak are made from here; distance to summit, air line, 8 miles. There are four hotels here, charging from $2.50 to $4 per day, and furnishing accommodations from the average grade up to the best obtainable at any water- ing place east or west. Daily stages from Manitou to Colorado Springs connect with the trains. Pueblo. — Southward from Denver 120 miles, in the valley of the Arkansas, is Pueblo, bearing to some extent the same relation to southern Colorado that Den- ver does to the northern portion. It contains 5,000 inhabitants, Holly water works, rolling mills nearly completed, fine school and church privileges, and has virtually three railway lines — the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, Denver & Rio Grande, and a branch of the latter road running up the Arkansas to Canon City, 40 miles distant. 97,000 tons of freight were handled here by the ditferent railways in 1877, and among important shipments were 13,000 head of cuttle. 70 TO THK itOCKIliS AXD BEYOND. The branch railway line to Canon City opens up a rich agricultural and min- eral region, and attracts considerable trade and travel from the southern and western counties of Colorado. Near Canon City are extensive deposits of coal, from which were taken 53,000 tons of excellent fuel in 1877. At Canon City are warm and cold soda springs of considerable merit, and just above town is the entrance to the Grand Gallon of the Arkansas. — This is a gash of remarkable beauty and magnificence, the walls rising almost perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of 1,500 to 2,000 feet. The climate is one of the most equable and pleasant, the year round, to be found in Coloiudo. Summer and fall often ex- tend far into the winter, while fruits and flowers which are too delicate for northern sections of the state flourish in the open air. Trout are plentiful within easy walk, and large game ditto within a day's ride. Westward 25 miles are the Rosita gold and silver mines, now yielding at the rate of $250,000 per year. Daily stages thither. Rich copper ore and paying oil wells are found near Canon. The Colorado State penitentiary is located here. New Mexico. — This great territory, with an area of 121,000 square miles, and a population of 100,000 souls, has been rendered tributary to the Rio Grande Railway by the extension of the line southward from Pueblo 86 miles, to El More. The importance of its trade can be in a measure imagined from the facts that as many as 1,000,000 sheep have been sent to market per annum from its boundless pastures, 10,000,000 pounds of wool clipped, and ihat one silver mine produces a ton of base bullion per week, and a copper mine, with the rudest appliances, turns out 3,000 pounds of pure copper per week. The freight shipped and received by the Rio Grande Railway at El Moro from this great southern country in 1877 amounted to 42,971,582 pounds. The territory pos- sesses a delightful climate. Vast areas of rich mining country, and millions of acres of unsurpassed grazing and agricultural lands arc yet unoccupied. South- ward only a few hundred miles are the rich and populous states of northern Mex- ico — the land of the orange and grape — soon to be pouring their wealth of mines, pastures and vineyards northward over this highway, and eastward via Omaha and Chicago. Daily stages run between El Moro and Santa Fe. Dis- tance 205 miles. The main line of the Denver & Rio Grande continues its course southward from Pueblo 100 miles to the eastern edge of San Luis Valley, and for the pres- ent makes its terminus Garland City. This is the real gateway to the San Juan mines, and is the point where freights are transferred, and travel seeks the stage coach. The road onlrreached this point in August, 1877, but for the five months ending December 31, 1877, freights forwarded and received at the Garland depot reached the handsome figures of 12,944,153 pounds. Vcta Pasc, just east of Garland, over which the railway is laid, is unsurpassed for the magnificence of its scenery. Railway engineering here has surmounted wonderful difficulties, and affords the tourist a constant view of its most brilliant achievements. " THE SAN JUAN REGION" is the title generally applied to. the extensive and marvelously rich silver mining country in southwestern Colorado. It comprises the counties of La Plata, Hins- dale, San .Juan, Ouray, and portions of Rio Grande, Conejos and Saguache, and * "THE AMERICAN SWITZERLAND." 71 covers the princely area of 14,000 square miles. The discoveries generally are confined to great altitudes and unusually rugged mountains. Before the era of roads some of the miners carried small lots of the rich ore out over the snowy summits, a dozen miles, on their backs, and rendered their avocation profitable iit that. The great first work has been to render the region accessible by con- structing good wagon roads. This accomplished to a large extent — with the near approach of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway — and the progress has been noteworthy, even in this fast age. Towns have sprung up as if by magic. What was a wilderness of almost inaccessible mountains, 300 miles from rail- way two years ago, is echoing with the din of some sixteen quartz mills and smelters. Nearly 10,000 mines have been discovered and located. Large areas of choice agricultural , grazing and timber lands have been thrown open to set- tlement. The number of sheep now in this region i^ estimated at 400,000 head, and the wool clip for 1877 at 800,000 pounds. Base bullion to the amount of 900 tons, worth from $280 to $350 per ton, was sent out over the Rio Grande road during the past summer. The freight business was also immense, about 5,000,000 pounds of supplies, mining machinery, etc., having been hauled in over the different routes last season. The Principal Districts are Summit, Animas, Eureka, Uncompahgre, Lake, Galena, Park and Decatur. These lie along the San Juan river and its many tributaries and along the tributaries of the Grand on the western slope, and at the hea 'waters of the Rio Grande on the eastern slope. The best developed and richest mines thus far worked are the " Bonanza," " Saxon " and " Alaska," in Uncompahgre District; the "North Star," "Empire," "Grey Eagle " and "Aspen," Animas; "Mountain Queen," "Mammoth and Red Cloud" and Maid of the Mist," Eureka; " Young America " and " Dolly Varden," Galena; "UteandUle "and" Hotchkiss," Lake. Ores from these yield $100 to $2,000 per ton. Specimens of nearly pure silver have been taken from the "North Star," in Animas District, while the "Mountain Queen," in Eureka District, has a large vein yielding 75 per cent lead and 50 ounces silver per ton. The mines of Summit District are all gold-bearing, and are literally "quarries of free gold ores," the receipts from the "Little Annie " having been as high as $4,000 in gold per week. Towns and Camps. — Following are the principal towns, with their altitude, population, name of county and distance from Garland, at the terminus of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway. There arc many small camps, the entire popu- lation being estimated at 10,000. Good mountain roads connect all camps with Garland: Town or Camp. Distance. Altitude. County. Population. Del Norte G5 7.807 Rio Grande 2,500 Lake City 145 8,550 Hinsdale 1.500 Silverton 185 9.400 La Plata ...1,000 Ouray 223 7.300 San Juan 800 Crooke City 147 S.fiOO Hinsdale 500 Capital City 150 9.500 Hinsdale 400 Howardsviile 165 9.700 San Juan 100 Eureka 170 9.900 San Juan 100 Animas Fork.s 172 L1,U00 San Juan 100 7,000 72 TO THE KOCKIES AND BEYOND, * Scenery, Rates, Distances, etc. — As San Juan is by far the most ruggocl and mountainous section of Colorado, traversed by numberless streams and abound- ing in parks and lakes, it may be imagined that the scenery is superlatively grand. There are hot springs at Wagon Wheel Gap, 30 miles above Del Norte, and at other points on regular stage lines. Fishing is tip-top in the Rio Grande and other streams. Game is exceedingly plentiful away from the camps. Large crops of grain and vegetables are produced in Saguache and Animas valleys, and dairying is largely carried on at great profit. The market for all produce is unexcelled. Barlow & Sanderson's daily stages run from Garland to Del Norte, Lake City, Silverton, and all other prominent points; fares: Denver to Del Norte, $22; Denver to Lake City, $37. Hotels at all towns and camps; rates: $2.50 to $3.50. Ruter's Concord coaches also leave Garland every other day for Costilla, Red River Settlement, Taos and Santa Fe. Distance to Santa, Fe, 155 miles; fare, $25. The famous Ojo Caliente hot springs are 20 miles west of Taos, and a side stage line will carry passengers over during the coming season. At Garland prices of produce are: flour, $3.75 per cwt;; potatoes, $3; corn, $1.65; oats, $1.85; butter, 35 cents per pound CHAPTER IV. WESTWARD TO UTAH — LARAMIE PLAINS AND NORTH PARK — CAMPING OUT — NOTES FOR THE TOURIST. Returning to Cheyenne over the Colorado Central, and resuming our journey- westward on the great trans-continental line, we soon crossed the main range- of the Rocky Mountains at Sherman — 549 miles from Omaha, at an elevation of 8,342 feet — and looked down upon that vast grassy amphitheater, the Lara- mie Plains. On a perfectly clear day the view from some of the slopes over- looking this basin is grand beyond description. The hundreds of square miles of pasture lands and arable valleys lie in full view. Through the center the course of the noble Laramie river is plainly traced by its broad bands of rich, green meadows, its groves of cottonwood, and at frequent intervals its own shining bosom. Twenty-five miles distant the black clouds of smoke of fair Laramie City mingle with the bluest of ether, and, by the aid of a good glass, one can trace the rows of brick blocks, the machine shops and rolling mills of the thriving entrepot there built up under the stimulating influence of the Union Pacific Railway. To the west rise the white peaks of the Medicine Bow range. Southward are the clear-cut, sharp-pointed Diamond Peaks, the Black Hills swinging around on the northern side, and with the main range forming a perfect girdle and shelter. Dark pine forests lie against the horizon almost everj'where. The Laramie Plains contain nearly 3,000,000 acres of unsurpassed winter and summer grazing lands. The average elevation is 7,150 feet. Over 50,000 head of stock are grazing in this region, and many of the finest ranch sites are stilL to be bad for the simple taking. The railroad company has also choice tracts LARAMIE PLAINS AND NORTH PARK. 73 of agricultural lands along the principal streams, which can be obtained in the sajne manner as the Nebraska lands. Wheat, rye, oats and barley have been experimented with here, and are found to yield bountifully by irrigation. The population is estimated at 8,000. The principal streams are the Big and Little Laramie rivers, Rock Creek, Deer Creek, Medicine Bow river and Cooper Creek, all tributai-ies of the North Platte river. It was in the extreme northern edge of these plains that General Reynolds, of the United States Army, wintered with a few followers in 1860. His expedition had made hard marches all sum- mer, and when winter set in the animals were turned out to seek their own living, all thoroughly bi-oken down, poor and imfit for use. In the spring these horses, with one exception, were fat and in perfect condition to commence their season's work. Reporting upon this, the General said: " This fact, that 70 ex- hausted animals, turned out to winter on the plains the 1st of November, came out in the spring in the best condition, and with the loss of but one of the number, is the most forcible commentary I can make of the quality of the grass and the character of the winter." Sheep Rais'nuj.- — The climate and grasses are especially adapted to sheep raising. Some 35,000 head of sheep are now grazing in diiferent sections, and their owners claim a profit, one year with another, of 25 to 35 per cent on the capital invested. Feed is only required during a few days of winter, the aver- age not being a month in the whole year, and only hay is used. This is cut at slight expense on the meadow lands along creek bottoms. Mexican sheep cost $2 to |2.25 per head, and are rapidly graded up by the infusion of better blood — Merino bucks generally being used. To commence with, a herd of 1,000 sheep — which is about the average number started with — will require an invest- ment of $4,000, as follows: 1,000 Mexican sheep, $2,000; 20 Merino rams, $300; corrals, cabin, etc., $500; leaving $1,200 for carrying on the herd until some income from the flock is obtained. Herders cost $25 per month and board. The wool of graded sheep will pay all expenses of the flock — that is, after one cross of the Merino with the Mexican. The increase will average 80 per cent. In flocks of 1,000 the total expense of keeping "will average 60 cents per head per year, under economical management. Mutton lambs sell at $2.50 to $3; mutton sheep, $2.50 to $2.75; wool, 18 to 20 cents per pound. The Mexican sheep yields 2 pounds at a clip; first cross with Merino, 3 pounds; second cross, 4 pounds, the wool increasing in value about 2 cents per pound with each cross. To double the capital m three years is a very common result, and this has been accomplished in two years, with especial good management. All sheep brought from the south yield a larger quantity and finer grade of wool after the first year — a fact partly due to the superiority of the grasses here and partly to the unvarying cool and equable temperature of these high altitudes. One breeder figures up his business for a term of five years in this wise : Increase from 1,000 ewes, 75 per cent annually, 7,823, worth $2.25 per head, or $17,- 601.75. Yalue of wool, at 20 cents per pound, $4,829.20. Aggregate in five years, without including the value of the original band, $22,430.95. His aver- age expense of keeping was only 50 cents per head per annum, or $6,411.50. Net profit for the five years' operations, $16,019.45. This result, large as it may seem, was obtained by breeding only Mexican sheep. Under the improved system of grading up the sheep and thus securing more and finer wool and a larger animal for mutton, a difference of $7,342.30 is shown, and the ranch- 74 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. man who raises the better herd and clips the iiner fleece exhibits a clear profit of $33,361.75 from his investment of $4,000 and his five years' work. The pastures are boundless; consumption always keeps pace with produc- tion, and these experiences can be duplicated by thousands of ranchmen along the grand old mountains and among the grassy foothills. Dahnjing. — Quite a number of the most intelligent ranchmen are turning their attention solely to the production of butter and to marketing milk at Laramie. While the latter branch of the business might easily be overdone, it is self-evi- dent that the manufacture of butter and cheese can never be. No climate in the world can excel this lor dairying. The cool, pure atmosphere, the crystal stream, the wonderfully sweet and nutritious grasses are auxiliaries which no eastern producer can ever hope to enjoy to such an extent as docs the Wyoming dairyman. Feed of the choicest kind costs nothing, the simple cabin in the mountain glen has thus far been the milk house, and the market is at hand in the mines, in the lumbering camps and at the railway. Wyoming produces only one-third of the butter consumed, the balance being shipped from distant states. Home-made or ranch butter always sells from 5 to 10 cents per pound higher than the eastern article and is always eagerly sought for by first-class hotels and the better class of citizens. Dairy cows sell readily for $40 per head here; best grades of butter at from 80 to 40 cents per pound. Laramie City. — In the midst of these plains, and on the south side of Lara- mie river, is the city of the same name. It is distant from Omaha 572 miles ; alti- tude 7,128 feet. It contains a population of 3,500 souls and is not only the "Gem of the Laramie Plains," but of all Wyoming, for beauty of location, finely laid out streets and pleasant homes. Laramie is only a fair example of what industry and thrift railroads can create in a wilderness and of what the Pacific Railway has done for two thousand miles of country which would yet be utilized only by the savage and wild beasts but for its civilizing influence. The only rolling mills in operation between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast are located here. These were built by the Union Pacific company in 1875, at a cost of $250,000, and have a capacity of 20,000 tons of railroad iron per annum. Two hundred men are employed. As this is the end of a regular division of the road the company has also extensive machine shops and a round house here. A large number of men are employed in these, and the amounts disbursed here and at the rolling mills monthly put many thousand dollars into home circulation. The river contains a sufficient volume of water to furnish splendid water-power. Enterprises looking to the manufacturing of iron from the vast deposits of ore near the city, and for utilizing the great soda deposits, also located here, are already freely talked of. Woollen mills are also greatly needed. It is well known that gold, silver, copper, lead, plumbago, iron, anti- mony, red hematite iron, brown hematite specular iron, sulphate of soda, gyp- sum, marble and cinnabar, are found within a radius of 30 miles of the city, in such quantity that they can be readily utilized with a reasonable outlay of capital. Freight is received at the Laramie depot to the amount of nearly 20,000,000 pounds per annum. Another item showing the thrift and traffic of the place is the post-office money-order business. During the fiscal year ending June 30, 1877, money orders were sold to the amount of $56,237.84. A fine system of water-works sends pure spring water through the streets and into the houses. LAKAMIE PLAINS AND NORTH PAIIK. 75 A Catholic hospital and convent are located here. From Laramie there is tri- weekly mail service to Hans Peak gold mines, 112 miles; to White River Ag-ency, Colorado, 228 miles; weekly to Fort Laramie, 85 miles, and weekly to Centennial and Last Chance mines, 30 and 40 miles respectively. Mining. — The principal gold and silver mining districts tributary to Laramie City, are Rock Creek, Centennial, Sheep Mountain, Big Laramie, Douglass Ci-eek or Last Chance, and the North Park districts. Rock Creek is composed of placer mining claims, forty miles northwesterly from Laramie, which were only discovered a year ago, and which promise well. Work with the hydraulic is already progressing. The Centennial district, thirty miles west of Laramie, by an excellent wagon road, was opened in 1876, one quartz claim yielding $20,000 in gold that year. Several large deposits yielding as high as $100 to the ton of ore have been discovered, but are only partially developed. Sheep Mountain district is near Centennial, and is noted for its rich silver ores. Assays from different mines at depths from 80 feet downward have run as high as 2,000 ounces of silver to the ton. Thirty miles south of Laramie is the Big Laramie Quartz and Placer Mining District, in which both gold and silver mines of undoubted great value have been discovered. Large deposits of copper, assay- ing $110 per ton, are also found in this district. Southwesterly from the city forty miles is the Last Chance District, containing rich gold quartz and placer mines. "Pay-dirt" has been found in over a dozen of the lodes from the "grassroots down. Four companies are operating these mines with grati- fying success; over 300 tons of ore, assaying $300 per ton, now lying at the mouth of one mine awaiting the advent of quartz mills. These districts, it should be remembered, are on the outskirts of an extensive unprospected mineral-bearing region. Oa the borders of North Park, sixty miles south of Laramie, rich dis- coveries have recently been made of gulch mines, auriferous quartz, and ruby silver. We have seen beautiful nuggets from gulches in this vicinity, and the quartz mines bid fair to equal those of the very best districts of Colorado. Still farther southward — from 100 to 125 miles, and over the borders of Colorado — are the noted Rabbit Ear Silver 'Mines and the Hans Peak Placer Mines, which, during the seasons of 1876-'7, attracted widespread attention on. account of their richness and extent of deposit. Specimens from the " Grand Lake " and other mines, slightly roasted, show globules of pure native silver. The Hans Peak placer mines have been sufficiently developed to establish the fact that they are the most extensive of all new districts in the Rocky moun- tains. Mining experts from San Francisco, Arizona and elsewhere, pronounce the wealth of one bar (" Poverty Hill "), which has been thoroughly prospected, at nothing less than millions. This bar covers 250 acres, and is being thoroughly opened up by means of flumes and the hydraulic. Hans Peak rises grand and grim over the different camps to an altitude of 11,000 feet, and, as wonderfully rich specimens of quartz are sometimes picked up in the gulches below, it is generally believed that this immense deposit of placer gold has been washed down from some giant fissure vein of the mountain. All of these districts are rendered tributary to Laramie by good wagon roads. Of themselves they will build up a large city of quartz mills, smelters and sampling works, for the wealth is uncovered, and Yankee enterprise will soon step in and throw it into the channels of trade in the form of bullion. 76 TO THE KOCKIES AXD BEYOXD. These vast fields ofter great inducements to capital, large or small, and should not be passed unnoticed. One of the largest and richest deposits of iron ore in the United States is found 25 miles north of Laramie, near the head of Chugwater Creek. The ore is described by Hayden as a black, crystalhne magnetic, yielding 68 per cent of iron, and the deposit is simply a vast mountain literally inexhaustible. The ore is naturally located much like that in the Lake Superior region, but thousands of tons have been washed down into the valley. Sock(, Marble and Lumber. — Eleven miles southwest of Laramie are located the famous soda lakes, which have attracted so much attention from scientific men and others. They exceed 100 acres in area, and contain solid beds of ciystallized Sulphate of soda, about nine feet thick. Upon cutting out a mass of this soda, the springs from the bottom immediately fill the vacuum, and in a few days have crystallized the same amount and quality of material as that removed. Thus the product is inexhaustible. It is estimated that these lakes now contain 50,000,000 cubic feet of chemically pure crystallized sulphate of soda. Soda is most valuable in the form of a carbonate, and the process of converting this into carbonate of soda is very simple, and comparatively inex- pensive. Soda is consumed in the United States to the amount of 250,000.000 pounds a year, costing $7,000,000; and this is all imported from foreign lands. These lakes would supply American consumption for years to come, and in them Laramie undoubtedly possesses a vast mine of wealth. The only marble yet discovered in the western country of real value, so far as we know, is the deposit owned by the Wyoming Marble Company, and located 25 miles north of Laramie City, 12 miles from the line of the Union Pacific railroad. The ledge is 80 feet wide, has been traced for ten miles on its surface, and prospected to a depth of 100 feet without reaching bottom. Specimens of the marble have been worked and tested by prominent dealers in this material in Chicago, St. Louis and other cities, and pronounced equal to the best Vermont marble for monumental and other purposes. A St. Louis importer says it "cuts as nice and clean as statuary marble." There is enough of it to build the state-houses and government buildings of the Union for all time to come. The lumber interest at Laramie is worthy of note. The heavy forests noticed in the mountains from 30 to 40 miles south of the city are producing an average- of 2,000,000 feet of lumber, 2,000,000 shingles, 500,000 lath, and 300,000 railroad ties and large quantities of fencing annually. Large mills are busily at work in the forests sawing out the lumber, while many teams find employment in haul- ing it to the track. Ties and fencing are floated down the various streams dur- ing high water season — spring and summer. Tie Siding, Rock Creek, Medicine Bow and other railroad stations on either side are shipping points for much of this product. Half a dozen companies, employing from 25 to 50 men each, are en- gaged in this industry. Professional lumbermen from Maine are here often employed. They get from $4 to $5 per day, while ordinary laborers and mill hands receive $30 to $40 per month and board. Rough lumber sells at an aver- age of $22 per 1,000 feet; finishing lumber, $38 per 1,000 feet. The common mountain pine furnishes the principal lumber supply. It is as white as the east- ern pine, almost as hard as the best spruce, and is nearly identical with the Nor- way pine in size and appearance. Although containing more knots, it is finer- 78 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOXD. grdinecl, more dense and elastic, and takes a much more beautiful finish than the pine growing in low altitudes east. All lumbermen pronounce it botter for wear or outside work, and it has almost supplanted eastern finishing lumber in these western cities. Wherever there are mountains we also find the pine. Wyoming is estimated to contain 15,000,000 acres of these superior forest lands. From these have been cut 7,000,000 railroad ties, 50,000,000 feet of lumber, and incalculable quantities of telegraph poles, fencing, etc., since the advent of the Union Pacific Railway, ten years ago. But the best forests are scarcely touched, and the market is nothing compared to what it will be as other resources become thoroughly developed. Hioitiiif/ in Xo>ih Park. — We saw antelope in herds along the track, almost in sight of Laramie, and lound the mountains within twenty miles of the city full of all kinds of large animals native to this region. But North Park, which is only 60 miles distant, is a very paradise for game, and in the writer's estima- tion surpasses any other section on the continent of equal accessibility in this particular. We mounted broncos at Laramie, took a couple pack animals laden with only the barest necessities, and had a royal ten days' hunt in the North Park country. The wagon road thither passes through a region which would itself be called superb hunting ground almost anywhere, and we must confess that our success from the very outset scarcely justified a trip to the Park. Elk, mountain bison, deer, antelope, bears. Rocky Mountain lions, mountain sheep, beavers, sage hens, grouse, geese, ducks, etc., have always made North Park an ideal hunting ground by their unusual numbers, and one which is becoming rapidly appreciated by western sportsmen. This great park is 80 miles long by 50 wide, has an elevation of about 8,500 feet above sea level, and is surrounded by snowy mountains from 13,000 to 14,500 feet high. Below the line of perpet- ual snow — about 12,000 feet — the mountains are covered with dense forests; some of the spurs jutting far out into the Park are also well timbered. Three forks of the North Platte and numerous tributaries water this area more thor- oughly than are any of the other mountain parks. We can truthfully assert that we here saw antelope in herds by the thou- sand, and deer and elk by the hundred. While lying in camp during the day we had antelope tempt us by interviewing us at 50 yards or less, and at night liad our ponies in perpetual uproar on account of the loud ^splashing of playful beavers in the streams. Game is hauled from North Park by the wagon load whenever a hunting party does enter its sylvan precincts. Here the tourist can find solitude to his heart's content, the sportsman can find game with little ap- preciation of fear, and the health-seeker can dream away days in utter inde- pendence. Large springs of mineral waters are found in various localities. On& cf these boils up mth great force from a cavity four feet in diameter, and that may be bottomless for aught we know. It is cold, strongly impregnated with iron, and really pleasant to the taste, but an analysis of the waters, found on the unblacked side of an old boot-leg near by, rather stuns us. We give it without, remark, signature and all: LARAMIE PLAINS AND NORTH PARK. 79 " Blue Lick 36 Cherry Pectoral 14 Scrap iron 40 Drake's Plantation Bitters 5 Pareproric 3 Laugrliing gas 2 F. V. Hayden a trace Brimstone a, trace Total 100 (Signed) U. S. Geological Survey." We may soon see here large herds of cattle, where the visitor will now look in vain for a single hoof. Old hunters and trappers tell us that stock has win- tered in the Park with but slight loss; and with the thousands of acres of waist- high grass for hay, ranchmen should certainly be able to fortify themselves against the severest storms. We find as many strange freaks in the vegetable kingdom here as elsewhere in the Pi,ocky Mountains. Morning after morning in midsummer have we shaken the thick, crisp scales of white frost from our blan- kets, and looked sorrowfully around upon a scene of apparent desolation. Bril- liant flowers of the evening before were a mass of wilted ruins and the splendid tall bluegrass, that looked a delicious morsel for stock at sunset, was bent and sometimes broken with its weight of a night's winter. But an hour of sunshine always changed the scene to one of springtime freshness, and often the flora seeming the most delicate rallies first under its magic influence. Scarcely a week passes without heavy frost, yet, strange as it may appear, flowers bloom throughout the season, and strawberries ripen even to the height of 10,000 feet above the sea, and in close proximity to the eternal snows. In Switzerland the re- gions of perpetual snow begin at 6,500 feet above the sea; here at 11,000 to 12,000. The head of the Park is two miles higher than Boston, and the air is remark- able for its "lightness." Heart and pulse beat free and fast, and the whole system seems charged with a healthy stimulus. ^ Camping Out. — A trip to North Park of course necessitates calmping out, and its many grassy, sheltered nooks, its beautiful brooks and springs, and the abun- dance of timber, combine to render it the place of all others for such enjoyable experience. Outfitting should be done at Laramie. If the party consists of four or more, buy a double team (or hire one if the trip is to be made quickly) and canvas covered wagon. The cost, if these are purchased, will be from $250 to $400. If properly cared for they can be sold on the return for nearly as much as they originally cost. A tent can be dispensed with if there are no ladies in the party, as the rougher sex can sleep in or under the wagon. It never pays to stint on bedding — the nights are emphatically cool. If the tent is required it will cost $20, and can also be sold on returning. A sheet iron camp stove, skil- lets, coffee pot, and tin cup, plate, knife, fork and spoon for each person, with butcher knives and axes, are the necessary items for the backwoods kitchen. For a period of one month a party of four should have the following eatables: 20 pounds of breakfast bacon, 20 pounds ham, 50 pounds crackers, 75 pounds flour, 50 pounds potatoes, 1 dozen cans condensed milk, 30 pounds sugar, 10 pounds salt, 2 cans pepper, 2 pounds candles, 5 boxes matches, 2 pounds yeast powder, 10 pounds onions, 10 pounds roasted coffee, 20 pounds corn meal, 20 1 ounds navy beans, 3 pounds tea, 5 pounds lard, or equivalent in salt pork. Some of these items may look large, but it is safe to calculate on aU appetites 80 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. doubling inside of forty-oiglit hours from the start. This is what might be termed "comfortable camping out." The cost of the entire outfit, including probable loss on team and tent will reach about $120, or $30 per man. A wagon and team, with driver, could be hired by the week at from $5 to $7 per day. Board at Laramie, $4 per day. August, September and October are the best months for a jaunt of this kind. Among other resorts near Laramie City are Dale Creek, the upper Cache la Poudre and Sand Creek, all within a day's drive. In the stream first named trout fishmg is good, and Sand Creek waters one of the most pictu- resque valleys imaginable. Its high, rocky w^Us, its interminable windings, and its grassy banks, present pictures we can never forget. It rises among the mountains which form the southern boundary of the Laramie plains, flows northward to within ten miles of the city, and empties into the Laramie river. We camped one night at the first available point, without regard to Nature's attractions. A broad ledge of smooth, flat granite there formed the creek-bed, and above that, on one side, another, wide enough for a danc- ing-floor, served for our table (one corner of it, at least). Just below, the breadth of thick, tall grass reminded us of a Kentucky meadow; while fifty yards above was a foaming cataract, which, after leaping from a rocky basin thirty feet in diameter, dashed its crystal body into an abyss over which we easily leaped. Then for an instant the stream was lost to view under a nat- ural bridge, composed of one solid block of granite some twenty-five feet square, and weighing thousands of tons. Wherever there was room between the immense slabs of rock, graceful clumps of willows nodded affectionately over the stream, and often a huge wide-branching cottonwood flung grateful shade over all. Bordering the valley were high battlements of red limestone, so unbroken and perpendicular that we were obliged to travel several miles down stream to find an opening for our saddle-horses. Standing out in lonelj' grandeur, high above all the rest, was one mass which closely resembled the ancient ruins we often see pictured, and which, if properly stationed on one of Britain's isles, would answer well for the remains of an old-time castle. We had rare antelope huntiffg near here. North Platte River. — At Fort Steele, 695 miles from Omaha, the railway for the second time crosses the North Platte. It is here really a "mountain stream," as it sweeps down freshly from the snowy ranges of the south. It is clear, deep and cold, and flows over a gravelly bed, contrasting strongly and beautifully with its shifting sands, slower current and less picturesque bottoms which we first encountered 600 miles behind as we entered the Great Plains. The Platte affords rare sport for the angler. Pike, perch, catfish, suckers, etc., abound in its waters, and although not quite so gamy as the trout, oftener attain good size. Geese and ducks are very plentiful, and of course we had good deer and antelope hunting here, anywhere within a dozen miles of the track. We passed over grazing lands here not a whit behind those of the Laramie Plains. Ranchmen are becoming quite numerous, and some very large herds of cattle are owned along the river and its tributaries. An enterprising pioneer, located some twenty miles up the river, is proving the value of Platte Valley soil at this altitude. He raised some 60,000 pounds of potatoes in 1877, and sold them at the railroad for from three to five cents per pound. His experiments with other vegetables demonstrated the fact that all roots can be grown with wonderful LARAMIE PLAINS AND NORTH PARK. 81 success. He is paving the way for thousands of others who will soon settle along this splendid vallej- when its advantages are better laiown. This is quite a point of shipment for ties, thousands being cut in the great forests along the Upper Platte and floated down to Fort Steele annually. Eau-Ii,:s is the county seat of Carbon county, and the principal outfitting and transfer point for the Snake River settlement, 75 miles south, as well as for the Ferris and Seminole mining districts, 40 miles north. It has a population of about 800, who are largely dependent upon the railway business here growing out of extensive machine shops, round-house, etc. Resources are numerous and valuable enough hereabouts to build up a lai-ge and thriving city. Two miles north of town are large deposits of red hematite — iron ore — which are becoming extensively utilized in the manufacture of paint. Two companies have opened mines, and have built mills to work up the ore. About 200 tons of metallic paint have been marufastured. The product is of such superior quality that different railways use it for outside work where a thoroughly water and rust- proof paint is desired. The deep red freight and flat cars and the sta- tion houses we saw all along the line are coated with this. We saw great piles of the ore lying along the track waiting shipment westward. Something like 25,000 tons of this have been shipped to Utah, where it is used as a flux for smelting silver ores. The Ferris and Seminole mines, already alluded to, are undoubtedly rich in gold, silver and copper. Over 100 claims have been located and several true fissure veins are now being developed. Ores run in value from $100 to $200 per ton. In a dozen of the mines, carrying a large percentage of gold, beautiful specimens of free gold quartz have been taken. The "Ernest," " Slattery " and " Mammoth " are among the principal mines. There are good wagon roads from Rawlins to these districts, one of them passing on northward to the Big Horn Region. Soda beds, similar to those near Laramie, are also found within 60 miles of Rawlins to the north. The country adjacent and south into Snake River Valley is well stocked with cattle. Shipping facilities being very good at Rawlins, cattle are driven here in great numbers and sent upon their journey eastward. During the writer's visit one firm made a sale of beef cattle to be delivered here the consideration of which was $52,000. Many Montana ranchmen seek this outlet for their beef. Rawlins is 709 miles from Omaha. Forty miles south of town, near the North Platte, are some hot springs which bid fair to attract much attention in the near future. Iron, sulphur and magnesia predominate in the waters, the latter reaching the high temperature of 130 degrees. A few buildings of rather inferior quality have been erected for the accommodation of visitors. Good fishing and hunting are side attractions here. The wagon road from Rawlins is very fair, and livery can be obtained at from $4 to $6 per day. Board at Rawlins, $2 to $3. A mile east of town is a large sulphur spring, almost unnoticed, because unknown. These multitudes of attractions in the Rockies seem to appeal to us mutely now at every turn for the attention and homage that will be richly lavished upon them in years to come. To the Big Horn. — At Rawlins you can ordinarily meet several old trappers or scouts who have been in the Big Horn region and who declare the route from here to be superior to any other. These men have led European hunting parties in that direction, and the English nobility, especially, always come back wildly enthusiastic and glutted with glories of the chase. Aside from the reputation G 82 TO THE KOCKIES AND liEYOSl). of the Big Horn region as a golden mecca for the miner, we can again say from persona! knowledge, that the country is prolific in beautiful and fertile valleys, in vast and unexcelled stock ranges, in magnificent scenery, and is alive wiV large and small game. Following are distances and camping places on one or the Rawlins routes. The last 125 miles is lined with good camp grounds: Miles. From Rawlins to Brown's Canon 12 Brown's Canon to Seminole 2S Seminole to Sand Creek 10 Sand Creek to Sweetwater River 15 Sweetwater River (bridged over) to Rattlesnake Hans^e 16 Across Range to Poison Springs Creek 8 Poison Springs Creek to Cloud Peak 125 Total 209 Ponies and outfitting goods of all descriptions can be purchased at Rawlins, and parties in need of a good guide should always look up Tom Sun, an old hunter and government scout, who knows the country thoroughly and is just the man to chaperon a hunting or exploring party. His address is Rawlins. Snake River Valley. — We spent a week most delightfully with the hospit- able settlers of Snake River Valley, trout-fishing, hunting and exploring among the hills. The valley is about 75 miles south of Rawlins by a good wagon road, was first settled six years ago and now contains 300 of as thrifty, "well-fixed " and contented denizens as one could wish to see. Snake River rises among the snowy gulches of Hans Peak, and flows southwestward 125 miles to its junction with Bear River. It and its numerous snow-fed tributaries are full of trout and the bluffs along its lower length, or the mountains at its head, abound in elk and deer. The best grizzly bear hunting in the whole west is near its headwaters, but we hunted gi'izzly bears with a well organized platoon of sharp-shooters and recommend that their rights to all country which they may have i^re-empted be declared sacred and inalienable. Wheat, oats and potatoes are produced in the valley quite extensively. Dairying is also a favorite and very profitable pursuit, and some 10,000 head of good beef cattle are grazed here. Coal of a superior quality is very plentiful; aU varieties of mountain timber ditto. Dixon is the principal post office, distant from Rawlins 80 miles. Accommodations can be secured at different ranches at from $8 to $10 per week. Looking out over the desolate expanse of sand and sage brush at Rawlins, Green River and other points the visitor can hardly believe that Wyoming pos- sesses such a wealth of farm and pasture lands as has been credited her. Hav- ing ridden on horseback lengthwise of the territory from end to end by two different routes, and across the broad domain north and south the same way, the writer feels thoroughly justified in saying that it tvoitld hare been impossible to select another such an apparently barren route for the railway. The Platte, Sweetwater, Wind, Yellowstone, Laramie, Powder, Big Horn, and other splen- did water courses tO the north, with their numberless tributaries, furnish the most beautiful and productive vallej's in the Rocky Mountain region, with millions of broad and fertile acres unclaimed and to be had for the simple tak- ing. The throngs of tourists and emigrants hastily passing through should remember these important facts and not take it fbr granted that sections which THROUGH WESTERN WYOMING. 83 cannot be seen — because a better railroad grade has carried them hither — are also of this forbidding nature. The few occupied valleys of Montana, all north of Wyoming's agricultural belts, and depending upon irrigation, produce about three million bushels of grain and potatoes annually, which, with other farm productions, sell at home for over five million dollars. The finest beef also comes from the all-the-year grazing lands of that northern latitude, and is only one among the many other points illustrating the capacity of Wyoming's equally creditable but unsettled plains and valleys. The Rock Springs Coal Mines. — Among all the vast resources of this west- ern country which are made to pour out wealth and add to the nation's prosper- ity through the enterprise of the Union Pacific Railway Company, few are more important or more thoroughly utilized than the great coal measures. We passed through an essentially coal formation for hundreds of miles, and here at Rock Springs, 831 miles from Omaha, had a fair illustration of its value as well as of the company's gigantic "side enterprises." There are several veins of semi- bituminous coal here, ranging in thickness from four to ten feet and extending far back into the hills. The coal cokes fairly, and, as ordinarily consumed,burns into fine ashes without clinkers. It is especially Uked for blacksmithing, smelt- ing and steam-generating purposes, and is not only eagerly sought far to the west, but is about the only coal consumed along the line eastward to Omaha and sells largely in Colorado. About 150,000 tons were mined here in 1877, selling on the track at $1.75 to $3 per ton, and at distant points at an average of $5. One hundred and fifty white men and the same number of Chinamen are employed the year round. Engines, hoisting apparatus and interior arrange- ments are models of system and completeness. Rock Springs is a village of 500 people. Besides the life given it by these great mining enterprises, it has at- tained considerable importance as a cattle-shipping point. Green River Citij. — Fifteen miles west of Rock Springs is Green River City, the end of a regular division of the road, and therefore possessing machine shops, round-houses, and other pxcessories of a railroad town. It is also the county seat of Sweetwater county — an empire of wealth and beauty in itself — which boasts an area of 30,000 square miles. Sweetwater is the banner agricul- tural county of Wyoming, nearly every variety of small grain and vegetables being regularly produced in the northern valleys. The government purchases all the grain and much of the produce offered for sale and pays good prices, giv- ing eastern prices with cost of transportation added. This is consumed at Camps Stambaugh and Brown, in the vicinity. The rich Sweetwater and Wind river gold mines arc located in this county, from 100 to 150 miles north of Green River City. A large proportion of the Big Horn range, with its vast undeveloped wealth, occupies the northern end of the county. The Wind River and Sweetwater Regions. — The quartz and placer mining districts of Sweetwater, South Pass and Wind River cover an area of about 3,000 square miles. A dozen years ago one of the wildest of western stampedes occurred to those mines on the strength of immensely rich placer and quartz dis- coveries. From one of the quartz mines $300,000 in gold was quickly taken by means of the rudest appliances, and we know of one man, W. C. Erwin, who rode out to Cheyenne with 65 pounds of gold dust from the placers. But the Indians were jealous of this little army of treasure-seekers, and soon discouraged mining operations by killing the pioneers on every hand. The richer gulches 84 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. were also soon worked out and miners did not care to risk their scalps in those days for a paltry four or five dollars a day. Renewed attention is now being attracted to these mines by the discovery of new and richer ones. Near Two- Ocean Pass and on Clark's Fork, a little beyond the old districts, valuable quartz and gulch mines were discovered in the summer of 1877, and strong mining camps are now organized there. Eight or ten stamp mills are in operation in the old and new districts crushing the rich free gold ores. It is generally believed that great mineral belts are to be found m the mountains still northward, as re- liable explorers claim to have found such belts in their wanderings there. The speedy settlement of the Indian troubles along that border will undoubtedly result in a very rapid development of northern Wyoming, as it is at once the great mineral country and the garden spot of the territory. Near Camp Brown, 155 miles north of Green River City, are hot springs of unusual merit. The water is forced upward through numei'ous orifices in the bottom of a pool or basin, which covers 6,000 square feet, and a large stream is constantly discharged into the ice-cold current of Little Wind river, near by. Carbonic acid and chloride of lime are given off abundantly, the temperature running from 100 to 120. Rheumatic affections and diseases of the skin are often eradicated by a short season of bathing. The Shoshone Indians, whose agency is located here, have an interesting tradition, making this out the myth- ical "fountain of youth." A good bath-house is at hand. Daily stages from Green River City; fare, $37; accommodations along the line, and at Camp lirown $2.50 to $3 per day. Trout fishing is superb in numerous streams. Hunting is also first-class in the mountains away from the immediate vicinity of the agency. Stages — " Sweetwater Daily Stage Line " — run nearer the Big Horn region from Green River City than from any other point and traverse a tolerably well settled country the entire distance. FoUovring are the principal camps, the stages running as far as Camp Brown: From Miles. Green River to Alkali Station 21 Alkali Station to McCoy's Ranch 27 McCoy's Ranch to Dry Sandy 22 Dry Sandy to South Pass City 25 South Pass City to Camp Stambaugh 23 Camp Stambaugh to Lander City 29 Lander City to Camp Brown 14 Camp Brown to Cloud Peak, Big Horn Mountains 149 Total. 310 This is also one of the routes to Yellowstone National Park. The tourist takes stages ^f this line to Camp Brown, and there outfits with ponies, pack ani- mals, etc. The wagon road was not completed from Camp Brown in January/ 1878, but extended 100 miles up Wind River Valley, from which point a trail led to the Park, about 60 miles distant. The wagon road was to be built to the Park during the spring of 1878. Unique and beautiful petrifactions and fossils are found in the vicinity of Green River City, and several canons through which the river passes below town are worthy of extended notice, but tempus fugit. Leroy Mineral Spring. — Two and a half miles west of Leroy, the latter be- THROUGH WESTERN" WYOMING. »5 ing on the Union Pacific road, 919 miles from Omaha, is the Leroy IVlineral Spring. The water is quite extensively quoted in western Wyoming on account of its medicinal virtues, and testimonials from surgeons of the army and others are not wanting to prove that the spot will soon be much sought on account of the spring alone. The water is highly recommended for the cure of dyspepsia and toning-up of the system. The following is an analysis of the water as made by Assistant Surgeon Smart, of the United States Army. It should be stated, however, that the vexy important element of carbonic acid could not be deter- mined, as much of this had escaped while the water was in transit from the spring to Camp Douglas, Utah : Grains, per gallon. Carbonate of Magnesia 50.680 Carbonate of Lime 58.674 Sulphate of Lime. . . .- 41.104 Sulphate of Soda (Glauber's salts) 116.655 Chloride of Sodium (common salt) 270.200 Iron and alumina 1.162 Total 538.475 Potassium is also present in small quantity. Trains often stop at the spring to enable passengers to drink the water, and we have enjoyed several refreshing draughts here. The valleys and bluffs sur- rounding abound in agates and petrifactions, while iron, soda and fresh water springs are numerous and often located near together. A little further west, near Piedmont, is a cluster of remarkable soda springs. The sediment thrown out by the principal one has built up a beautiful, conical- shaped body some fif- teen feet high. The water is very pleasant to the taste, and undoubtedly bene- ficial for certain complaints. Great Flume and Lumber Enterprise. — At Hilliard, 943 miles from Omaha, the railroad passes under an elevated flume, said to be the longest in the west- ern country. It was constructed by Salt Lake capitalists, about three years ago, as a means of transit for lumber, wood and ties from the heavy forests in the Uintah mountains, thirty miles southward, to the track. The flume is twenty- eight miles long, four feet across the top and constructed in a V shape to facUi- tate the descent of its valuable freight. It required the work of 700 men for three months to complete it, and cost altogether $250,000. Among items used in its construction were 2,500,000 feet of lumber, 5,000,000 feet of timber, and 100 tons of nails. Its fall is from 100 to 300 feet to the mile, and when nearly full of water the timber thrown into it descends with astonishing velocity. Dur- ing forty days of the season of 1877 18,000 cords of wood were floated down to Hilliard in addition to other products of the pineries. The same company owns a saw mill at the head of the flume which turns out some 35,000 feet of lumber daily. I The cord wood is strewn along in sight of the track in a pile 20 feet high and a mile long. It is used in the manufacture of charcoal. Twenty-nine kilns were at work during our visit and produced in 1877 2,000,000 bushels of char- coal. This important product is shipped principally to the smelting works of Utah, but is also partially utilized here at Hilliard by a small smelter. For the six months ending January 1, 1878, the smelter produced 1,187 tons of bulUon from Utah ores, worth $160 per ton. 86 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. Bear River and Valley.— The clear mountain water used by the Hilliard flume is from Bear river, and soon after leavmg Hilliard we entered the beauti- ful valley of this stream. The river rises in spurs of the Uintah mountains, 30 or 40 miles southward, tiows through a rugged and inviting country for the sportsman and tourist northward 150 miles into Idaho. There, making an abrupt bend, it turns almost directly southward again, and finally empties into Great Salt Lake. At places the valley is five to ten miles wide, thickly settled with MoiTnon farmers and stock growers, and then, suddenly contracting into roman- tic defiles, is as wild and quiet as any huntsman or angler could wish. Where the soil is cultivated bountiful crops of wheat, lye, oats, barley and hardy vege- tables are produced. Stock in Bear River Valley presents a wonderfully differ- ent appearance from that on the plains. Instead of commencing with Texas cattle and Mexican sheep, the ranchmen almost invariably started with a small nucleus of American cows and good graded sheep. By steadily improving these they have finally produced a grade of beef, mutton and wool which is always eagerly picked up by dealers in such articles at very superior prices. Dairying is at many points a leading and lucrative pursuit. Cattle and sheep are gener- ally fed and sheltered during winter in the upper half of the valley. Evanston, 957 miles from Omaha, is located in this valley, at an altitude ot t),770 feet. It is the last town of importance in western Wyoming, and is the county seat of Uintah county. Another division of our great railway ends here, and we notice, in consequence, an immense 20-stall round-house and large car and machine shops. The town contains 1,200 inhabitants, is well built, and one of the most prosperous stations on the line of the Union Pacific. It is the desig- nated shipping point for a large proportion of the Montana cattle which find a Southern market. Two companies add largely to the thrift of the place by their extensive operations in the lumber and charcoal business. The Evanston Lum- bering Company cut about 1,500,000 feet of lumber in 1877 and produced a large quantity of charcoal. Bear River here furnishes a splendid water-power, and the town by its superior facilities for manufacturing and the enterprise of its citizens, must soon become an important center for this interest. Fuel for the Whole West. — Two or three miles west of Evanston are the most extensively worked coal deposits in the western mountain region. The veins are from 20 to 35 feet in thickness, and are being worked by 400 miners. The Union Pacific Company, with other corporations, are producing about 300,000 tons of coal per annum. A large percentage of that finds its way to Utah, Nevada and California. From the statements made in these pages it will be seen that the immense coal measures of the Union Pacific Railway stippli/ nearly the entire northern half of the great trans-Missouri region with fuel. The " bonanza " silver mines of Nevada, the gold fields of California, the gold and silver belts of Colorado, and the great wheat lands and pastures of Wyoming and Nebraska all in the end pay important tribute to these never-ending depos- its of lignites. Forty miles southeast of Evanston is a perfect mountain of sulphur. The immense deposit carries from 50 to 90 per cent of pure sulphur. A United States patent has been secured on the property by a company of western gentle- men. Flowing oil springs also have been discovered ten miles east of Evanston and are in process of utilization. The surface oil, which has been draining Gate ok Ladoke, Colorado Rivkk. 88 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. away in copious quantities, is found to be equal to the best of heavy lubri- cating oils for stationary or locomotive engines. Unexcelled trout-fishmg in Bear river, rare hunting for large and small game m the vicinity, and most picturesque suiTOundings, combined with fine cold sulphur springs within half a mile of town, and a pure mountain atmos- phere, render Evanston a point much sought by tourists and health-seekers. At the "Mountain Trout House" the visitor can enjoy a bill of fare, which we wiU guarantee will change his entire make-up in one twentieth of the seven-year period which scientists have allowed for such a seemingly diflBcult feat. Venison, elk, antelope, ducks, mountain grouse and other game, and the ever welcome mountain trout, are always on the table in season. While upon the subject we should add that Union Pacific Railway eating-houses are proverbially sensible and lavish upon this point of furnishing their guests with game. You therefore not only enjoy one continual round of novel ex- periences, wonderful and romantic attractions, and breathe the air at an alLi- tude wher(? disease cannot originate, but you can glide royally and lazily on- ward in your palace car, and feast on the luxuries of the country, whether you are inclined to hunt them or not. Board at Evanston, $2.50 to $4; livery, $5 to $7. Good wagon roads up or down the valley, and easy bridle trails among the blutfs. Camping out is as enjoyable from here as from any point on the road; outfitting about the same expense as at Laramie City, provisions from the east costing more, but ranch produce a little less. Yellowstone Park is 290 miles due north of Evanston, and can be reached by good roads half way, and trails the re- mainder of the distance. Echo and Weber Canons. — It does seem a Uttle unfortunate that finan- cial and other considerations will not always permit railways to pass through nature's most beautiful pathways. The tourist should remember that to get the fidl benefit of his trip he must occasionally climb the mountains, explore the canons, and dive into the mysteries of an enchanting region which otherwise he only gets a glimpse of. In passing through Echo and Weber canonic, however, the Union Pacific treats its patrons to views which in themselves are well worth a trip across the continent, and if you are among the kind who cannot tarry, here is the place among all others to open your eyes to the glories of the immediate surroundings. For sixty miles we had a perfect kaleidoscope of novelties, covering all the grounds of natural beauty, wild- ness, grandeur, sublimity, until we were fairly tired of looking. In such small space the writer can only attract attention to a few striking features of the wonderful dash down through these famous gorges, with the passing observa- tion that the name of those unmentioned is "legion." Echo Canon is really entered at Wasatch, 968 miles from Omaha. The bright red sandstone crags soon greet you on either side, and assume shapes so wonderiuUy fantastic that you can imagine them almost anything. Plung- ing through a tunnel, we had in quick succession "Castle Rock," with its arched doorway, giant pillars and frowning battlements; "Needle Rocks," sharp pointed and standing out against the sky like a group of old chui'ch spires; " Winged Rock," a ledge surmounted with a mass of sandstone which, from our point of view, resembled the wings of some feathered monster; "Steamboat Rock," named from the immense crag jutting out like the prow THROUGH WESTERN WYOMIXG. 89 of a steamer, with the flag of old Ireland (a cedar in its perpetual green) planted firmly and with never fading colors; "Sentinel Rock," rising up grimly and alone, as if to survey the march of progress ; and hundreds of others. It is the grandest place in the world for the exercise of imagination. Think of any form or figure, animate or inanimate, and it will rise up clearly among these splintered, weather-worn, gnarled old rocks of Echo and Weber canons, if you give a lively fancy one half its wonted play. Echo Canon was well named, for the shrill whistle of our engine and the softer ringing of the bell seemed thrown from wall to wall and intermingled with the steady hum and rattle of our wheels, untO. a wild and almost deafening Babel of sounds rose from the level of the pi-etty stream to the summits of the awful cliffs. These "Witches," "Cathedrals," "Devil's Punch Bowls," "Pulpit Rocks," "Swallows' Nests," "Girls of the Period," and their thousand mocking rein- forcements along the battlements then seemed to hurl back the refrain upon our humble heads as only such a miscellaneous array of talent could. At Echo City — which is located in a perfect little fairy glen — we entered Weber Valley, and found cosy rural homes clustered along one of the most beautiful of all western rivers. From here the Summit County Narrow-Gauge Railway leads up Weber Valley to Coalville, 7 miles, where some coal niines are being worked. These streams are full of trout, and waterfowl seem espe- cially fond of the surroundings, for we saw them on the river as we passed swiftly along. It would be difficult to find a more dehghtful spot for a few days' sojourn than here. Of course one would have to put up with plain farmhouse living, but having entered the land of fruit and flowers, one would at least enjoy them with the luxuries of fresh mountain trout and small game. The canon above, with its queerly grouped walls from 500 to 800 feet high, and the dozens of side defiles and rocky amphitheaters, together with the finny beauties in the clear ■ and rushing waters, would furnish room for a week's delightful exploration. Weber Canon has its multitude of attractions, as well as Echo. The rocks change in color to a deep gray, and are less extravagantly shaped, as a rule, than those left behind, still often rising to prodigious heights, and narrowing sometimes to the river's edge on either side. The "Devil's Slide, probably the most remarkable rock formation to be found between the oceans, is soon noticed on the left. It consists of two parallel ledges of granite jut- ting straight up along the mountain side 14 feet apart, and at times 50 feet high. The Thousand Mile Tree — 1,000 miles from Omaha— will be noticed near by, with its very distinct label. 90 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. CHAPTER V. UTAH TERRITORY — WEALTH, DEVELOPMENTS AND ATTRAC- TIONS—THE MORMON CAPITAL. Having fairly entered the Territory of Utah, we informed ourselves in a general way of its natural features, advantages, etc. Its area is something over 84,000 square miles, or 54,000,000 acres, embracing every variety of mountain and valley scenery, and probably a greater diversity of climate than any re- gion of similar extent east of California. Cultivation of the soil is carried on almost exclusively by the aid of irrigation, the melting snows of the moun- tains affording sufficient watar to render most of the valleys highly product- ive. The soil is to a very great extent formed of rich washings from the mountains, and consists principally of a gravelly loam. Wheat is the great staple production, twenty-five bushels per acre being the average yield, and sixty to seventy bushels is not an uncommon result in favored localities. Oats, rye, barley and flax are also cultivated with great success, and all kinds of hardy vegetables grow astonishingly large, and of superior quality. No sec- tion can surpass Utah in the yield and quality of potatoes. In the semi- tropical climate of southern Utah cotton has been quite extensively produced. During the civil war a considerable quantity of this was exported by wagon over the mountains and plains, 2,000 miles, to eastern states, at remunerative prices. The southern counties also produce figs, madder, indigo, grapes and almonds. Indeed, fruit raising in all the valleys, north and south, is one of the most important items. Apples, pears, peaclies, apricots, plums, grapes, currants and other fruits, are produced to such an extent that they have be- come important items of export to distant states. Stock raising is generally engaged in, and returns large profits. Mining. — The mountains of Utah are found to contain exceptionally large deposits of silver, lead, copper, iron and coal; and in some localities gold, an- timony and cinnabar are present in sufficient quantities to pay for worldng. Salt is shoveled from the shores of Salt Lake by the ton, and sulphur, salt- peter, gypsum, plumbago, soda, rock salt, marble, slate and limestone are among kindred resources. Utah now claims to be third in the list of states and territories yielding the precious metals. Her ores are generally very easily produced, often lying in largest deposits near lines of her splendid system of railways. They are easily worked as a rule, and dozens of mills and smelt- ers are already in successful operation within a few miles of the most noted mines. Rich discoveries are constantly reported from the more remote dis- tricts. Some of these, in the southern portion of the territory, consist of im- mense deposits of a high grade of silver ores. Maniifactitring. — Utah leads all other territories in the value and diver- sity of her manufacturing enterprises. Home production has been the golden maxim, and it is doubted whether any community in the land comes nearer perfect independence by producing all articles of common use. Water-pow- ers are unrivaled all over the territory, hundreds of mountain streams leap- SAUNTERINGS IN UTAH. 91 ing from the canons, and needing only slight expense to utilize them. There are a number of woolen mills manufacturing the fleece from her flocks into fabrics which are not only made up and worn at home, but also find market abroad. Then there are tanneries, shoe factories, foundries, planing mills, fire-brick and tile works, etc., all utilizing home products and stimulating home industry. Producfioiis and Development in 1877 . — The comparatively small beginning made here in the heart of the trans-Missouri region in 1847 has grown and expanded until now the settlements extend a distance of 350 miles north and south, and 250 east and west. The population is estimated at 140,000, an increase of 50,000 since 1870. There are eight lines of railway in the terri- tory, with a total of nearly 500 miles of track. The product of the mines in 1877 is reliably placed at $7,400,000, against $1,300,000 in 1870. Of this amount over $5,000,000 is in silver and $1,600,000 in lead, the other items being gold, copper matte and copper ore. The farm products of the same year were valued at over $10,000,000. Principal among these items were — wheat, 3,750,000 bushels; potatoes, 2,250,000 bushels; hay, 246,000 tons; dried peaches, 1,500,000 pounds; wool, 1,700,000 pounds. Live stock to the value of nearly $2,000,000 was marketed. Considerable wheat is exported, one com- mission house alone having shipped 100 car loads to Liverpool during 1877. The total productions of the territory for the year are valued at over $21,- 000,000. These outlines will assist the reader in forming some idea of the wealth latent and developed in Utah. Climate, Scenery and Game. — Although one may experience the rigors of an arctic temperature on the mountain summits, or the crisp atmosphere of northwestern territories in the elevated valleys, we find in the great Salt Lake Basin a climate mild and agreeable almost the year round. The tem- perature, according to observations at Salt Lake City, seldom rises above 90 degrees, or falls below zero. Along Great Salt Lake, which has a shore line of nearly 300 miles, and furnishes an horizon like the ocean itself — although 4,200 feet above the sea — is to be found the most peculiar climate in the world, combining, as a local physician says, "the light, pure breezes of the neighboring mountains with that of the briny sea, thus enabling us to inhale a marine atmosphere as soft as on the Pacific shores, blended with a cool, Alpine air." Chroniv. affections rarely originate here. The climate is an almost certam panacea for asthma, and in cases of incipient consumption has worked wonders. Digestive disorders, nervous affections, etc., are often mod- ified, if not entirely cured. At Camp Douglas, three miles from Salt Lake City, only one death has been recorded in a period of four years, out of an average of 340 residents there. Numerous hot springs, and the waters of the great Dead Sea, afford delightful tonic baths. The hot sulphuretted waters of the springs are proverbially efficacious for rheumatic and blood diseases, while it has been discovered quite recently that salt water bathing in the lake is a positive cure for catarrhal and other affections. The territory is especially prolific in Fine Scenerij. — The greatest mountain-locked lakes are here; the most won- derful and pleasing features of caiion scenery are found in the defiles of the principal streams, and the valleys present most charming rural landscapes. A view of the great Mormon city itself, embowered in foliage and hemmed 92 TO THE ROCKIF.S AND BEYOXD. in by high mountains on three sides, with its enchanting vista of the inland sea, is a picture never to be ofFaced from the mind. The most interesting point of it all is that all attractions are almost invariably near the line of the Union Pacific or adjacent to its branches and connecting lines, and can be taken in at slight effort and expense by a series of short railway excursions from Salt Lake City. The mountain streams and fresh water lakes are literally alive with trout, the angler often finding really fine fishing within stone's throw of the rail- way track. Mountains and forests, farther removed from civilization, and yet of easy access, abound in elk, deer, bears, foxes and beavers. The "grizzly," in all his pristine vigor, can be encountered at various points. The shores of the lakes are favorite resorts for innumerable geese, ducks, swans, pelicans, etc., and most of the streams furnish excellent hunting for that class of game. Sage-hens, grouse and rabbits are found in most of the valleys in great abun- dance. California quail have been introduced with success, and the prairie chicken has obtained a good start in the valleys of northern Utah. Certainly a rare combination of wealth and attractions are centered here. The mines, water powers, farm lands and pasturages are not yet half utilized. The beauties of scenery and value of climate and waters are almost unknown to the world. The huntsman and angler have scarcely made themselves man- ifest. In all of these items Utah stands out fresh, inviting, unexcelled. Ogden is the western terminus of the Union Pacific, and the first city of note we entered in Utah. It is 1,033 miles from Omaha, 36 miles from Salt Lake City, and 4,340 feet above the sea. From here the Central Pacific Rail- way leads westward 882 miles to San Francisco, and through passengers change to the silver palace cars of that noted California line. The Utah Northern Branch of the Union Pacific Railway (narrow-gauge) extending northward to Franklin, Idaho, and the Utah Central Branch of the Union Pacific (standard broad-gauge), running southward to Salt Lake City, combine with the great overland roads to render Ogden quite an important railway center. Ogden river has its exit from a lovely canon in the Wasatch mountains just back of town, and empties into the Weber four or five miles below. The city is thus abundantly supplied with water power, which is to some extent al- ready utilized by flouring mills, woolen mills, and other manufacturing enter- prises. The clear mountain water is also led through the streets, and is used everywhere for inigating purposes. The luxuriance of the foliage, splendid background of the rugged Wasatch range, and the broad, level streets, at once impress us pleasantly upon arrival. The environs are made up of some of the finest grain and fruit farms in Utah. The city claims 6,000 inhabitants, has a number of Gentile as well as Mormon churches, and several public schools. We found first class hotel accommodations at Beards- ley's Railroad House, at the depot, where fish and game are nearly always appetizing features of the bill of fare; but the city proper, which is nearly a mile distant, lacks somewhat in this respect. Ores carrying gold, silver, lead, iron, antimony and tin have been found in the mountains within a radius of ten miles. Vast quantities of iron ore, yielding from 60 to 70 per cent of pure iron, are found within five miles. Saipy, the great manufacturer of iron and steel, says the magnetic ores here are the finest he has ever seen. The ores have only been utilized as a flux SAUNTERIKGS IN UTAH. 93 for silver ores at the smelting works thus far, but Ogden people are fairly- charged with brilliant iron manufacturing enterprises, which must surely, ere long, be transferred from paper to matter-of-fact realization. The locality certainly presents superior inducements for the investment of capital in this and kindred institutions. A smelter for silver ores was in courcC of construc- tion during our visit. Ogden Canon. — No tourist can weU afford to pass this point and deny him- self a side trip through Ogden Canon. A drive of a dozen miles will enable one to view the most interesting features, and this can easily be accomplished in half a day. The scenes are not a whit less grand and beautiful than those of far more famous caiions. The river, a dozen yards wide, two or three feet deep and a perfect mirror of purity, affords every variety of cascade and eddy, of foaming surges against the monster boulders, and of placid pools beneath the shadows of crowding walls. It is alive with the gamiest of trout, and he must be a novice who fails to land plenty of these with tempting bait. Two or three miles up are some warm springs, and half a mile farther, in a pretty little wooded opening, are hot sulphur springs of pronounced value. At some of the narrow points the walls rise up almost vertically to the height of 1,500 feet and begrudge even room for roadway. The tops and sides of the mountains are still ornamented with the deep green foliage of the pines. The road is everywhere romantic in its meanderings at the water's edge or higher up under the very shades of the summits. Five or six miles up you suddenly emerge into a perfect little Eden of a valley, where the walls have retreated somewhat and left room for dozens of picturesque and cosy homes. There is quite a little village here along the river banks, and the inhabitants are certainly to be envied their tow- ering walls of granite, their tree-embowered homes and their royal exit to the world below. Taylor's Canon and Water Fall Cafion are also prominent attractions near Ogden. In the latter, we were told, a sheet of water makes one grand leap over the shelving rock into a wild abyss 400 feet below. About twenty miles north of the city, along the Utah Northern Railroad, is a very interesting and valuable gioup of hot springs. Enough water is emitted to furnish power for a large mill, and runs up in temperature to 136°. It looks perfectly clear, but is strongly charged with iron. Scenery in the vicinity is truly grand, and many- cold water spnngs in the neighborhood add to the attractiveness of the place. A climb up the mountains back of Ogden enables one to get a view taking in thousands of square miles of mountains, valley, and Great Salt Lake. There is a wealth of beauty and grandeur here in the vicinity of Ogden, but we must hasten to our notes leading southward. The Utah Central Branch of the Union Pacific Railway was completed from Ogden to Salt Lake City in 1870, and was the pioneer of Utah's local lines. Like the six railways which have since been built in the territory it was con- structed -without subsidy or land grant, the citizens putting their shoulders to the wheel of progress and going to the bottom of their pockets for the necessary funds. Connecting with the Utah Southern Railway at Salt Lake City this forms a straight north and south broad-gauge line along the richest mineral re- gion and through the finest farm and fruit lands in Utah 111 miles in length. This entire line has also been merged into the Union Pacific Railway system, through the enterprise of Mr. Gould. John Sharp, a Bishop of the Mormon TO THE KOCKIES AXD BEYOND. Church, is General Superintendent of the line. We found the road-bed one of the best in the west and the cars models of neatness and comfort — a state of affairs which was readily understood when we noticed the lively freight and pas- senger traffic and became better acquainted with the officers in charge. The following statement of freight business over the road in 1876 and 1877 will give the reader an idea of the importance of the Utah trade: 1876. 1877. Freight received, ft. 196,499,010 188,985,005 Freight forwarded, lb 76,978,279 91,794,898 Total, lb 373,477,289 280,779,903 In scanning over the items received we notice that coal, coke, building mate- rial and merchandise compose three-fourths of the tonnage, while base bullion and silver ore furnish four-fifths of the tonnage forwarded. The passenger traf- fic presents an equally gratifying status. Passenger fare, Ogden to Salt Lake, is $2. Southward from Ogden the road follows along the base of the Wasatch mountains all the way to Salt Lake City. The range is here very steep and rug- ged and sometimes cleft with great fissures or canons from summit almost to base. We soon reached the bench lands overlooking Great Salt Lake, and from this moment until we again left Utah were treated to never-ending panoramas of the American Dead Sea, its almost "thousand isles," and its depths of mir- rored mountains. Kaysville, 16 miles; Farmington, 21; Centerville, 25, and Wood's Cross, 27 miles from Ogden, were passed in rapid succession. They are the villages of thrifty Mormon farmers, usually almost buried in foliage, orchards and grain fields, and nestled under the sheltering walls of the Wasatch, with the glorious vista presented by the lake in front. With these great mountains rising up over the picturesque settlements on our left and the irregular shore line of the lake in almost constant view on our right, the vision was constantly strained and still unsatisfied. Near Kaysville the farmers have developed some- thing new in agriculture — new in this region at least. There are here and else- where vast tracts of " desert lands," or lands which ai-e so high above the stream that they can never be irrigated. Several years ago wheat was sown upon small patches of this seemingly arid and valueless soil. A tolerably fair crop was raised without artificial moisture or unusual rain, and now broad areas of this kind of land are being put under cultivation annually, producing as high as twenty bushels of wheat per acre. These are really warm alluvial soils formed by the crumbling of mountain ranges. SALT LAKE CITY. Thirty-six miles south of Ogden and 1,069 miles from Omaha is the beautiful *' City of the Saints." It has au altitude of 4,261 feet above the sea, or 43 feet above the great Lake. In claiming 30,000 population for it the citizens can scarcely be called extravagant, for indeed you hardly know when you enter or leave it. Coming or going in almost any way you penetrate, upon the outskhts, blocks upon blocks of cottage homes, each with its masses of flowers, its plots of rich green vegetables, and its graceful clumps of trees bending under the weight of luscious fruits. It is indeed the city of cottage homes, and it is declared by good. SAUNTERIXGS IN" UTAH. 95 authority that the number of people who own the houses they Hve in is here greater in proportion to the population than in any city of the Union. Many of these within the city Uniits subsist entirely from their own fertile httle truck patches, which lend a rural air to their homos. The city is one perfect mass of foliage, blooming and blossoming "as the rose," where thirty-five years ago were only the sage-brush brakes and bench lands of the new edition of Jordan. Rows of giant ehu, mulberry, locust, or other varieties of shade trees now follow all the streets far out through the suburbs, and are continually refreshed by streams of pure mountain water which ripple musically along the broad side- walks everywhere. It is the universal edict of travelers that only one or two cities on the continent of like size command such unvarying charms and interest for oft-repeated visits. You might become almost tired of the world and vote every other resort a bore, but Salt Lake scenery. Salt Lake atmosphere and Salt Lake life would hold you with their pleasing peculiarities to visits twice a year for many years at a time. To start with, the city won our heartiest admiration for the charms nature has lavished. Spurs of the Wasatch mountains rise up to great height a few miles distant on the east and noi'th, the site sloping gently to the south, and there being washed by the waters of the Jordan. North of the city the mountain of the Prophecy — said to have been shown to Mormon leaders many years ago in a vision — towers grandly above the heights surrounding. West of the city, twelve miles, rise rugged ranges, marking the shores of the great Lake; and southward are the royal landmarks of the Wasatch range. Twin Peaks. Of course the chief attraction. Great Salt Lake, is always visible from elevated portions of the city, its bright bosom and crystal depths, constituting an eternal mirror for the glories of the mountain summits surrounding. Such views! and then a perfect network of drives among orchards, beautiful lawns and pretty rural homes, over hard, dry roads, are pleasures not to be overlooked. Then Salt Lake hotels greet the stranger with such an inviting and home-like air that he is constrained to call them "home," be his stay for a week or a month. There are several first-class houses, and any quantity of good comfortable places of lesser pretensions. Of course the " Walker House," G. S. Erb, proprietor, leads all hotels between Omaha and San Francisco in points of size, elegance and merits of cuisine. It is supphed with an elevator, water and gas on different floors, and is a model of convenience and system generally. Tlie " Townsend " is another house here ranked as first-class. The rates of these are only three dollars per day. Of the second-class houses the " White House," " Clift House," and " Valley House," can all be recommended. Their charges are two dollars and two dollars and a half per day. The SulpJmr Baths. — Being comfortably domiciled, a bath in the famous ■warm sulphur springs, inside the city limits, is a proper luxury to indulge in. Street cars lead from all hotels to the bath-houses, as well as to other points of interest in the city; uniform fare, ten cents. The lukewarm waters are emitted in great quantity — 10,000 gallons per hour — at the foot of a spur of the Wa- satch, and are led directly into three or four large bath-houses. The tempera- ture ranges from 95° to 104°. Here we found the great plunge or swimming bath, a ladies' swimming bath and a smaller institution of the same sort for boys. In addition there are small rooms where the tub and shower-bath can be enjoyed privately, and Turkish, hot air and Russian baths to suit special 96 TO THE ROCKIES AND BETOXD. cases. The pure warm sulphur water is constantly flowing through these apart- ments, so that there is the great merit of freshness and cleanliness to start with. But how can we describe the delicious sensations produced by a plunge in the waters of the great swimming-room. No bath could afford a more delightful feeling of ease, or impart a more healthy glow and animation to the whole sys- tem. Fifteen minutes here of splashing and diving and kicking up the great white flakes of sulphur which have formed upon the perfectly smooth floor, are ■worth a hundred-mile trip — yes, a thousand, if such priceless luxuries were not so thickly distributed among our western mountains. Parlors, waiting rooms, and refreshments are not wanting; and the grassy lawn with its noble trees, render the spot one always to b^ remembered with pleasure. In the.se springs alone Salt Lake City possesses a luxury and an attraction which in years to come will add thousands to her number of visitors. Following is an analysis of the waterb as given by Dr. Charles T. Jackson, Chemist and Geologist, of Boston: "Three fluid ounces of the water, on evaporation to entire dryness in a platina capsule, gave 8.25 grains of solid, dry, saline matter. Carbonate of Lime and Magnesia 0.240 1.280 Per Oxide of Iron .0.040 0.208 Lime 0.545 2.907 Chlorine 3.454 18.421 Soda • 2.877 15.344 Magnesia 0.370 2.073 Sulphuric Acid 0.70S 3.748 8229 43.981 It is slightly charged with Hydro Sulphuric Acid Gas, and with Carbonic Acid Gas, and is a pleasant, saline, mineral water, having valuable properties belonging to Saline Sulphur Springs." A mile farther north, also right at the base of the mountain, are the hot sul- phur springs, which must never be overlooked. We emphasize the word hot because the water spurts out with great force at a temperature of 200° or more. Eggs thrust into the pools boil in about regulation time, and meat can be cooked thoroughly (and seasoned, too!) in an incredibly short period. Flowing out into the meadow near by the water has formed a pretty little lake, called Hot Springs Lake, a strange feature of which is the fact that trout and other fish have been seen in it, apparently flourishing in the tropical and sulphur-scented waters. Large volumes of steam are often noticeable over the spnngs and along the stream. The following is an analysis of these waters : Chloride of Sodium 0.8052 " " Magnesium 0.0288 " " Calcium 0.1096 Sulphate of Lime O.C806 Carbonate of Lime 0.0180 Silica 0.0180 1.0602 Specific gravity, 1.1454. Two miles east of the city, and on high bench land overlooking it, is Camp Douglas, one of the best built and most beautifully located of all our military posts. Quarters for both officers and men are solidly constructed of the hand- some stone found in the mountains near by, and all have a never-failing supply SAUNTERINGS IX UTAH. 97 of the purest of mountain water from Reel Butte Canon. A few miles below is Emigration Caflon, the entrance to which is only four miles from the city. Be- sides abounding in scenes of the wildest grandeur, it possesses great interest from the part it has played in Utah history. It furnished the first highway for the Mormon emigrants when they entered the valley thirty years ago, and founded the new Zion. Still, a few miles below, and six miles southeast of the city, is Parley's Canon. The scenery in this is especially bold and impressive, the mountain sides of the pass rising with wild abruptness from extremely nar- row gorges, and ornamented on their summits with maple, oak, pine and other graceful shrubbery. This leads to Parley's Park, and was the regular overland stage route before the iron horse made his appearance in these western wilds. Twenty miles up this canon is Park City, and the famous " Ontario " silver mine. This mine has risen so rapidly in the estimation of experts within the past year that it is really claimed to be only second to the great " Comstock " of Nevada. The " Ontario " produces $6,500 per day, month in and month out, and de- clared dividends of $50,000 per month in gold coin every month of 1877, besides paying for the building of hoisting works, mill, and the usual heavy mining ex- penses. $2,000,000 worth of ore were still in sight in January, 1878. In 1877, $2,195,280.80 worth of silver bullion were shipped. Tourists who cannot visit the mines should drop in at the Wells, Fargo & Go's office, at Salt Lake City, and see the beautiful silver bars which arrive by stage as regularly as clock work every day in the year. Mountain streams here are full of trout; elk, deer and bears are plentiful high up in the ranges surrounding, and there are many mar- velously rich mines. A week's jaunt here would be amply repaid. Daily stages; fare, $4. Hotels, $2.50 per day, and plenty of cosy rural homes in the Park where accommodations can be obtained still cheaper. • But, eager to view the mountain fastnesses, we "ran away with ourselves " without taking a thorough look at the city. The Tabernacle and unfinished Temple being centrally located, are generally first to be visited. The Taber- nacle is 250 X 250 feet, 80 feet to the roof, which is oval and without central sup- port, and there are 20 doors calculated to permit an exit of 12,000 people in six or seven minutes. The great organ, constructed entirely in Utah, and principally of Utah woods and metals, is 58 feet high, and contains 3,000 pipes. We took a three minute walk inside of this mammoth instrument to obtain a correct idea of its size, and must confess to no little astonishment. The Endowment House of which so much has been written, is in the same inclosure. Th Temple, near by, was commenced a quarter of a century ago. If ever finished, it will be 200 feet high, of proportionate size, and wonderfully massive build. The gi-anite for this is now carried direct from the quarries to the building by the railway, but for many years the immense blocks, weighing from five to ten tons each, were hauled thither by ox teams. The quarries are some 20 miles distant at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canon. The Museum is just opposite the Tabernacle, and is what it represents to be " Utah at a glance." Mineral specimens from Utah mines, and the products of Mormon industry are worthy of especial notice. Within a stone's throw are the former residences of Brigham Young, " Amelia Palace "—the elegant abiding place of the lady who in later years has been called the Prophet's favorite wife — and the mammoth " Co-op " store. This institution bears the sign, " Holiness to the Lord, Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution," as do others 7 i)8 TO THE ROCKIES AND BEYOND. in the city, and mingles a vast deal of business enterprise with its devotion to the Lord. It is 300 feet long, 45 feet wide, three stories high, and crowded with every conceivable line of merchandise. It carries a stock of $750,000 and pays freight on goods to the amount of $250,000 per annum. A drive about the city discloses many elegant residences with beautifully laid out lawns, flower and fruit gardens. One can often see in the same inclosure the apple, pear, peach, apricot, plum, grape, and other small fruits thriving luxuriantly. Large rows of splendid business blocks, a fine system of water works, gas and every kind of manufacturing enterprise in full blast, are a few of the evidences we saw at- testing the prosperity of the beautiful city. Three daily papers — the Tribune, vigorously Gentile, Herald, liberal, and News, the devoted organ of the Mormon Church, are published here. Four or five railroads really concentrate here, and Salt Lake is to all this great interior basin what Denver is to its grand scope of tributary country. Its resources in mines and farming lands are incalculable, while its exquisite charms for those in quest of health or pleasure are matters of world-wide acknowledgment. Big Cottonwood Canon. — A pleasant two or three days' trip off the beaten line of railways, is to Silver Springs, a favorite summer resort in Big Cotton- wood Caiion, 24 miles from the city. It is the heart of the Big Cottonwood sil- ver mining district, and is approached by a mountain road which has few supe- riors for picturesqueness. Silver Lake, five miles from the village, is one of the chief attractions. It is one of the handsomest of all our mountain-locked sheets, has facilities for boating and affords excellent fishing. At Argenta, Silver Springs and Brighton's are quite good summer hotel accommodations. The great Carbonate mine, which is in itself a mountain of ore, yielding as high as $65 per ton in silver and 90 per cent lead, is located in the neighborhood. Many other good mines are also found here. There are tri- weekly stages; fare from Salt Lake, $3. Eailwatj Excursions. — Leading southward from Salt Lake City — a continua- tion of the Utah Central Railroad — is the Utah Southern Branch of the Union Pacific. It penetrates the best mining and agricultural section of central Utah, and controls the freight and passenger business of the southern part of the ter- ritory and southern Nevada, and, with connecting narrow-gauge mountain lines, affords easy access to the finest pleasure grounds. York, 75 miles south, is the temporary terminus. The road follows the thickly settled Jordan valley nearly all the way to LTtah Lake, and then continues its southward course through the beautiful villages lying along the eastern shores of that lovely sheet. The giant peaks of the great Wasatch range lie close along the road on the east, so that the traveler has an .unending panorama of lake, valley and river on one hand, and of the snow-covered mountain summits and timbered foot-hills on the other. Although the line drains a wide scope of wonderfully productive country on either side, and has already worked up an immense carrying business, an early extension to the great mining and semi-tropical districts of southern Utah will increase the traffic incalculably. During 1877 there were, in round numbers, 100,000,000 pounds of freight forwarded, and 150,00Q,000 pounds received by this road. Following are stations, distances and fares from Salt Lake City; 100 TO TUL HOCKIES AXD BEYOND. Stations. Distance. lare. Little CotlonwooJ 7 ,| 50 Junction 13 75 Sandy I3 1 OO Diaper 17 1 25 Lebi 31 1 75 American Fork 34 i 90 Pleasant Grove. . 37 2 00 Prove 48 2 50 Springville .. 03 2-75 Spanish Fork .5X 3 00 Payson ar, h .50 Santaquin 71 4 00 York 75 4 00 Bin,ffham C'i and 0