F 129 P3 E2 Copy 1 THE EARLY HISTORY OF PALMYRA: THANKSGIVING SERMON, DELIVERED AT PALMYRA, N. Y., NOVEMBER 26, 1857, BY HORACE EATON, Pastor of the Presbyterian Church, Palmyra, New York. PUBLISHED BT REQUEST OF THE DESCENDANTS OF THE FIRST SETTLERS. ROCHESTER: PRESS OF A. STRONG & CO., DEMOCRAT AND AMERICAN OFFICE. 1858. THE EARLY HISTORY OF PALMYRA: THANKSGIVING SERMON, DELIVERED AT PALMYRA, N. Y., NOVEMBER 36, 18 BY HORACE EATON, w Pastor of the Presbyterian Church, Palmyra, New York. A. PUBLISHED BY REQUEST OE THE DESCENDANTS OF THE EIRST SETTLERS. ROCHESTER: PRESS OF A. STRONG & CO., DEMOCRAT AND AMERICAN OFFICE. 1858. 33 7/7/ if ? Jt THANKSGIVING SERMON. Is. 35 : I.— The wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for them. Thanksgiving was first instituted as a social and family festival to commemorate especially the perils, virtues and providential deliverances of the Pilgrims, who, on the 22d day of December, 1G20, landed on Plymouth rock. Since then, it has been adopted by nearly every State in the Union as " The Forefather's day," — in which the early ancestry of every community have justly claimed a share in its reminiscences. Such reviews are designed to quicken our patriotism and our piety, and give new strength to the roots which bind us to the soil and the principles of our progenitors. It was a noble senti- ment of the ancient Greek, who, while celebrating the valor and firmness of his ancestors, exclaimed, " Dying, I will remember Argos." I am sure, you will not regard it inappropriate, on this occasion to direct your thoughts to a *past generation, — to the men, whose names you bear, whose memories you honor, whose land you inherit. The venerable Stephen Durfee informed us, that the early set- tlers used to gather on the southern brow of " Winter-Green-Hill," from thence to overlook this valley, and mark at different points any impression made by civilized man. The wilderness was dense and heavy, and evinced a deep and a strong soil, well fitted to fix the strong purposes and call forth the strong exertions of strong- men. *This discourse is principally confined to persons who settled here previous to, or about the year 1800 J 4 Sixty-six years have now passed away, and could the same men stand on the same eminence, how striking would be the contrast ! The dark and lofty forest has given away to the waving harvest. Where went up the smoke of the wigwam, now rises the elegant mansion. Instead of the howl of the wolf, are now heard the cheerful sounds of a busy and happy community. Before us are evidences of men and agencies, to whom we may apply the words of inspiration — " The wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for them." It is natural first to refer to the different currents of immigra- tion — the basis of this population. In the obscure background of history, we find the sons of the forest, the Iroquois, the general term applied to the "six nations," ranging in lordly freedom through their wild domains. Next, the French claimed the command of this wilderness. At length they gave way to British power. After the Revolution, the treaty of 1783 left it in possession of the victorious colonies. But the indistinctness of the original charts involved Massachusetts and New York in a sharp controversy, — each State insisting upon its claim to this part of the western territory. This dispute was submitted for decision to commissioners, appointed by the different States, who met at Hartford, December 16th, 1786, and was settled by a compact between the two States, in which New York " ceded, granted, released and confirmed to Massachusetts, all the estate, right, title, and property, (the right of government, sovereignty and jurisdiction excepted,) which the former had to a large territory west of the Military Tract, comprising the whole part of country through which the Genesee runs, from its source to where it flows into Lake Ontario." The amount of land was estimated at about six million acres. By the Legislature of Massachusetts this district, in 1783, was granted to Oliver Phelps and Nathaniel Gorham, for the sum of §100,000, and from that time became private property. Phelps and Gorham the same year opened a land office in Canandaigua. Besides this "Massachusetts Reserve" there was the "Military Tract" These constituted the two general divisions of Western New York. The Military Tract was reserved by an act of the New York Legislature, July 25th, 1782, to be distributed among the officers and soldiers of New York State, who served in the Revolution. It was situated directly east of the Massachusetts' Reserve, or the Phelps and Gorham Purchase. The western line of the Military Tract was drawn "from the mouth of As-so-ro-dus Creek, — (or Great Sodus Bay — a contraction of the Indian name,) south, along the western shore of Seneca Lake, and east by a line drawn from the most westerly boundary of Oneida or Tus- carora County, on the Oneida Lake, through the most westerly inclination of the west bounds of Oneida and Tuscarora territory, south, by a line drawn due east from the southern extremity of Seneca Lake." The tract included 1,680,000 acres, and embraces the present Counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca and Cort- land, the greater part of Tompkins, and a small part of Oswego and "Wayne." Another locality had a close connection with the early settle- ment of this town. Wyoming is a beautiful valley along the Susquehanna, in the northeastern part of Pennsylvania, twenty-five miles in length and only three in width; lying between two parallel ranges of mountains, crested with oak and j)ine. The scenery around is wild and beautiful, while the valley itself might be chosen for another paradise. This lovely spot has been stained by many a conflict. Before it was coveted by the white man, the Shawanese and the Delawares here shed fraternal blood. The ancient legend rims, that while the squaws were gathering wild fruits along the bank of the river, a child caught a large grasshopper. The pos- session of this insect led to a quarrel among the children. It extended to the mothers, and finally arrayed both tribes in a hostile attitude. The battle was bloody. The Shawanese lost half their number. The remnant abandoned their lands and re- moved to Ohio. In 1750, adventurers from Connecticut visited Wyoming. John Jenkins first surveyed and drew a map of that section. The Connecticut Colony in 1754 met a council of the six nations at Albany, paid the Sachems two thousand pounds, and took a deed of the valley. They claimed the right of settlement, also, under the charter of James I., to the Plymouth colony. Their claim was ratified by the first judges in England. In 1762 some two hundred immigrants from Connecticut had settled in Wyo- ming. While the men were in the harvest field, twenty of them were cut off by the Indians. The Connecticut company in 17G9 made a second attempt to occupy their lands, but they then found certain Pennsylvanians located upon them, who claimed the val- ley under the charter of 1681, given by Charles II. to William Penn. Animosities between these two colonies soon ripened into open hostilities. Three times the Yankees were driven back, and as many times returned. The cause of the Pennamites at length lost sympathy w T ith the masses of Pennsylvania, and the proprie- taries were unable to rally a force sufficient to dispossess the Con- necticut settlers. In 177-1, Wyoming was constituted a township, named Westmorland, and joined to Litchfield County, Connec- ticut. It then numbered nineteen hundred and twenty two in- habitants. In the war of the Revolution, both parties joined in the com- mon defence. June 29th and 30th, 1778, Col. John Butler, with four hundred tories and seven hundred Indians, made a descent upon that settlement. They were then without protection, since they had sent more than three hundred of their young men to join the army of Washington. Col. Zebulon Butler, an Ameri- can officer, rallied the old and young and led them to a feeble resistance. They were overwhelmed by the multitude of their enemies. Two hundred were slain. Then took place that awful " massacre of Wyoming," the horrors of which are too well known to need rehearsal, and the history of which has been im- mortalized by Campbell in his " Gertrude of Wyoming." At the close of the Revolutionary war, a council, called by the two parties, met at Trenton, New Jersey, December, 1782, and decided the unhappy dispute. The valley was to fall under the jurisdiction of Pennsylvania, — the Connecticut settlers to be confirmed in the possession of their lands. Dr. Peck, in his his- tory of Wyoming, thus remarks: " The Penns, by the charter of 10 81, were owners of the soil. Their policy was to lay out all the best lands into manors and settle them by tenants under leases. Thus some of the most objectionable features of the feu- dal system were established in Pennsylvania. The Pennamite and Yankee wars were not merely a conflict between the proprie- taries of Pennsylvania and the Susquehanna company for the jurisdiction of the country. It was not a mere question of boun- dary, but a question between landlord and tenantry. The ques- tion was one in which the tenantry of Pennsylvania generally were interested, and consequently the cause of the proprietaries was never popular with that class. Wyoming was the battlefield where the question was to be settled whether the people who culti- vated the soil slioidd be serfs or freeholders? Prom the previous history, it is not strange, that many of the Connecticut colonists preferred to leave their lands and emigrate into other sections. Not a few of these families were connected in their future history with this vicinity. They were the first to discover this wilderness, and open the way for future settlement. There is a humble stone in the old grave yard of this village, bearing the inscription — John Swift. But few names are more deeply imbedded in the foundations of this community. Many of the "first things " cluster around it. John Swift was a native of Kent, Litchfield County, Connecticut. When fifteen years of age, he became a soldier in the Revolution, and served seven years till the close of the war. He was one of the Connecticut colony in the valley of Wyoming, and in a bold attempt to fire the Block house of the Pennamites, he was shot through the neck, the ball passing between the spinal column and the esophagus. A like recovery was scarcely ever known in surgery. After the settlement of difficulties, a company of Connecticut people was formed, and John Swift and John Jenkins were appointed agents to select and purchase lands for their occupation. Jenk- ins had been in the employ of Phelps and Gorham, as surveyor, and was acquainted with this section of the Genesee country. In 1TS9, they proceeded to Canandaigua and contracted for township No. 12, of the second range, and immediately began the survey of lots along Mud Creek. They built a cabin just under the brow of the hill, in front of the house now owned by Nelson Reeves. AVhile asleej) there with their assistants, at two o'clock in the morning, four Indians, attracted by the light, put their guns through the open spaces between the logs, killed one man by the name of Barker, and shot a ball through the nose of another by the name of Church. It is probable this 8 attack of the Indians dampened the zeal of the Pennsylvania immigrants. True it is, the Susquehanna company was given up, and Swift, in order to effect a settlement sufficiently formida- ble to render it safe, spent the summer of 1790 in forming com- panies in Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island. In September, 1790, Swiftmoved his family into this unbroken wilderness. He built the first house on the spot where Mr. Thomas Lakey's sho}D now stands. It was of logs and covered with bark. His wife was the first woman who ventured a residence in this native wilderness. One evening, when making hasty pudding, three Indians came in and sat around the fire. At length they made signs of violence. At this, the heroine of the log cabin seized a red hot poker and so laid it over their heads, that they concluded a " swift " retreat was the better part of valor. John Swift was the first pioneer. He was the first moderator of the first town meeting. He was the first supervisor. He was the first pound tender; the first captain. At his house was held the first training. At his house, if we except Canandaigua and Bloomfield, was formed the first church west of Oneida Lake. Asa Swift, his son, was the first male child born in this town. He gave lands for the first grave yard, the first school house and the first church in this village.* Indeed from 1790 to 1812, the name of John Swift is connected with every enterprise, pecuniary, political and religious. At the commencement of the war of 1812, he was appointed Brevet General of the New York Volunteers. In 1814, while stationed at Queenston Heights, he led a detachment down the river, some six miles, to Fort George, — surrounded and took prisoners a picket guard of the enemy, consisting of some sixty men. In- stead of commanding the prisoners to ground their arms and march away from them, he suffered them to retain their muskets. One of the captives inquired, " who is Gen. Swift ?" Most unad- *The first parsonage was built of bass wood logs, on the site of Nottingham's hotel. The first framed bam was Luther Sandford's The first tww-story fram< d h use was Silas Hart's, now occu- pied by Daniel Gates. The first child born in what was then called the village was Pomeroy Tucker. The first blacksmith was Zechariah Blackman. James Smith was the first hatter. Dr. Ainsworth was the first postmaster. James Rogers, father of Gen. Thomas Rogers, died in 1793. His grave was the first in the "Durfee Burying Ground." The grave of Benjamin] aimer, the father of George Palmer, was the second in that place. William Hopkins and his wife died in 17'.:!. on the same day, and were buried in the same grave. The "Palmyra Register," the first newspaper in this town, was dated October G, ISIS. Pomeroy Tucker commenced the Wayne Sentinel in 1£>24. 9 visedly lie stood forth and said, " I am Gen. Swift." In an instant the inquisitive prisoner put a ball through his breast. Dr. Alexander Mclntyre was by his side when he fell. He was borne to the nearest house, where he died and was buried July 12th, 181-1, aged fifty-two years and twenty-five days. After the war, the citizens of Palmyra disinterred his remains and depos- ited them in the old cemetry of this village. The New York Legislature, out of respect to his patriotism and bravery, pre- sented a sword to his eldest son, and directed that a full length portrait of Gen. Swift should be hung up in the City Hall, New York. And here, though not in the due order of settlement, I deem it proper to mention that another and the first sacrifice to the war of 1S12, was from this place. Major William Howe Cuyler was the first lawyer that opened an office in Palmyra, — a man still remembered for his public enterprise and generous sympathies. He was the aid of Gen. Hall. On the night of the 8th of Octo- ber, 1812, he was killed, at Black Rock, by a four pound ball from the British battery at Fort Erie. The ball that passed through his body, still rusty with his blood, is now in the posses- sion of his son, Wm. H. Cuyler of this village. William Jackway, John Ilurlburt, Jonathan Millett, Nathan Parshall, Barney Horton, James Galloway, Mrs. Tiffany, were some of the followers of Swift from the valley of Wyoming. Next in the order of time is the Bliode Island Colony. In November, 1791, Gideon Durfee, Edward Durfee, and Isaac Springer arrived from Tiverton, R. I. They came in wagons on the Military road to the old castle at Geneva; from thence with- out a path, found their way to Palmyra. Pardon Durfee, hus- band of Mrs. Ruth Durfee, now living, came early in the Spring of 1792, — driving the cattle belonging to the colony. Nearly exhausted with fatigue and hunger, he inquired of his brothers if they could bring him some food. With tears they were obliged to reply, "we have none;" but there was relief in the case, — Webb Harwood had gone to Jerusalem, now Penn Yan, forty miles,, to the nearest mill, and was expected back every hour. The next August a boat landed near the farm house owned by Hon. Martin Butterfield, bringing Gideon Durfee, the elder, and Job, Stephen,, 10 and Ruth Durfee. Lemuel Durfee arrived four years later. Ruth Durfee married Capt. William "Wilcox. This was the first mar- riage in this town. Mrs. Wilcox died, at the age of eighty three, the 13th of the present month. It is said that Swift had failed to fulfil his engagements to Phelps and Gorham, — but when the Durfee family arrived he " took heart," for they brought the hard coin in a leather satchel, sufficient to pay down for sixteen hundred acres of land. This money enabled Swift to secure a warrantee deed of the town. These Pioneers were soon followed by William, James, and Thomas Rogers, Festus and Isaac Goldsmith, Humphrey Sher- man, Zebulon Williams and Weaver Osborn, all from Rhode Island. Osborn married Hannah Durfee and resided on the farm now owned by Alex'r. Grant. David Wilcox, from Rhode Island, came with his wife and two children in April, 1791. Ma- ry, his daughter, afterward wife of Alvah Hendee, was born the 29th of the next June, and was the first white child born in this town. We come now to another original element. The increasing population of Long Island, together with the dangers of a seafaring life, induced the wise and far-seeing to look out for a home in the wilderness. Jn 1788 a company was formed of eleven, in South Hampton, Long Island. In the early Spring of 1790, Elias Reeves and Joel Foster took their way to the far west, as their agents, — first to Fort Pitt, now Pittsburg, where they found Luke Foster, an acquaintance. Together they penetrated the vast wilderness of Virginia to the Ohio, and passed down to Fort Washington, now Cincinnati. There they purchased land on what was called Tur- key Bottoms. They left Luke Foster to build and make prepara- tion while they returned to conduct the colony to their forest home. But a single circumstance turned the locality and the future history of the projected immigration. When Joel Foster and Elias Reeves arrived at Long Island, they found William Hopkins, an Uncle of Elias Reeves, and Abraham Foster, on a visit from New Jersey. Hopkins was a son of the Hon. Stephen Hopkins, •whose trembling hand stands so prominent among the signers of 11 the Declaration. William Hopkins had been connected with the *" Leasee Compan)-," was acquainted with the Genesee country, and saw its prospective importance. He urged upon his friends the value of a God-fearing community. He told them of the colonies from New England, that they were descendants from the Puritans, with principles and purposes congenial with their own. His arguments prevailed. The company relinquished the purpose of settling on the Ohio — and directed Elias Reeves and William Hopkins to pass by the northern route, beyond the Military Tract, while Joel Foster, Abraham Foster, and Luther Sanford were to explore along the boundaries of Pennsylvania. The Fosters and Sanford started June, 1791, but found the country mountainous and forbidding. Being carpenters, on consideration of good wages, they stopped at a place called Lindleytown and engaged in the erec- tion of mills, leaving the work of exploration to Reeves and Hop- kins, who on the 20th of August, 1791, left Long Island with their rifles and knapsacks, came by water to Albany, — then on foot, following the Indian trails to Geneva, — thence to town " No. 12." These valleys were well watered. The height and strength of the trees were an exponent of the depth and richness of the soil. They resolved to try the effect of hard work and honest principles upon a region more luxuriant than that from which they came. Upon the tall maples and the sturdy oaks, they placed their names as a pre-emption mark. This done, Hopkins and Reeves made their way across the State to the Pennsylvania line, where they found Joel Foster, Abraham Foster and Luther Sanford. There they drew and signed the following bond : "This instrument of writing witnesseth, that Wm. Hopkins of the State of New Jersey, Elias Reeves, Joel Foster, Abraham Foster, and Luther Sanford, all of the State of New York, do agree and bind themselves, severally, each to the other, under the penalty of fifty pounds, to abide by and make good any purchase of land which Elias Reeves and Abraham Foster shall make of Oliver Phelps, Esq., or any other person, within twenty days from the date hereof. The proportion of land, which each of us shall have *The Leasee Compnny consisted of sixty men, from Connecticut and New Jersey, united for th e purpose of leasing land i'rom the Indians, independently of the government. This company was dissolved by an act of Congress. 12 is to be concluded among ourselves hereafter. In witness of all of which, we have hereunto set our hands and seals, in Ontario Coun- ty, State of New York, this ninth day of September, in the year of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and ninety- one. William Hopkins, Elias Reeves, Joel Foster, Abraham Foster, LuTHER SANFORD." After concluding this engagement, all, save Elias Reeves and Abraham Foster, returned to the Island. These made their way back to No. 12, stopping at the house of one Crittenden, residing in the " old castle " at Geneva. From him they received a peck of apples, the fruit of the old Indian orchard, as a present to John Swift. When they arrived, they were offered some of the apples. They craved only the seeds, and proceeding to a beautiful bluff on the farm now owned by Gen. L^man Reeves, they planted them, which proved the first bearing orchard west of Geneva. Having selected their lands, they contracted with Phelps, at Canandaigua, for five thousand five hundred acres, for eleven hundred pounds, New York currency, one hundred of which they paid down. It will be noticed this was in September, 1791. The Durfee family had not yet arrived. As Swift could not meet his engagements, his title was doubtful. Hence Reeves and Foster, to make the thing sure, treated with Phelps and Gorham directly. But when Gideon and Edward Durfee arrived, his hard money met the hard times, and Swift was enabled to pay his notes and received a genuine title to the town. Hence we find the Long Island company the next year taking their deed from John Swift. Having viewed the land, the spies returned, bringing back, all of them, like Caleb and Joshua, a good report. This enterprise was not a failure. The coming winter, Joel Foster built a sail boat, Cyrus Foster making the nails, and launched it on Heddy Creek, near South Hampton. After a well spent Sabbath, on Monday morning, the 4th of April, 1792, the first colony from Long Island embarked on their voyage of nearly five hundred miles. They sailed through the Sound to New-York, then to Albany ; 13 from Albany they transported their boat by land, 16 miles, to Schenectady — with " setting poles " pushed the boat up the Mo- hawk to Rome. There the boat was taken from the Mohawk and conveyed by land something less than a mile to Wood Creek ; thence floating down to Oneida Lake — through the lake and the out- let they came to Oswego River ; thence into Seneca River — through that to Clyde River— from Clyde River through Mud Creek to Saw-mill Creek, landing near the present residence of Hiram Fos- ter. The whole voyage occupied twenty-eight days. Mrs. Joel Foster brought in her arms her eldest son, Harvey Foster, then an infant of eleven months. The way now being open, the same old hive sent out repeated swarms of working bees. The Clarks, Posts, Howells, Jaggers, Culvers, Jessups, and many others, followed. " The wilderness and the solitary place were glad for them." This old boat did good service in going and returning, with other companies, as they arrived from Long Island at Schenectady. It was finally conveyed around to Seneca Lake, and used as a pleasure-boat. Truly a noble craft. I would go as far to see that old hoat, as the ship in which Dr. Kane penetrated the frozen North. But I pass to another class of the early settlers — men who, with strong arms, resolute hearts and dauntless courage, laid low these forests, planted these fields, and built these habitations. Cummington is a sterile, rocky town, in Hampshire County, Mass. The first settlement of that town was by a Scotchman, by the name of Mclntyre, in 1770. It has only some thousand inhabi- tants, but it has sent forth sons who are " princes in all the earth." Lemuel Spear, Dr. Gain Robinson, Bartlett Robinson, Col. John Bradish, David White, David Warner, Noah and William Porter, Noah Turner, were some of the earliest emigrants from Cumming- ton. Lemuel Spear was a soldier of the Revolution, and came here in 1790. Abraham, Lemuel, Ebenezer, and Dea. Stephen Spear, were his sons. Noah Porter was deacon of the Baptist church, an honest, godly man. He had a controversy with a friend by the name of William Winslow. Porter insisted that he owed Wins- low for a sheep. Winslow would not take the pay. It was re- 14 ferred, and Porter gained the case. David White settled on the farm afterwards owned by David Warner, the father of Nahum Warner. The first death in town was that of David White. Da- vid, Orin, James and William, were sons of David White. A son of James White has recently settled on the old place of his grand- father. Calvin, Charles and Luther, were sons of Col. John Bra- dish. Reuben Town was the first pliysician. These were all from Cummington. Isaac Kelly, Stephen Phelps, Webb Harwood, Abraham Lap- ham, and Salmon Hathaway, were from Adams, Mass. Major Joseph Colt was from Lyme, Conn. ; Asa Lilly from Athol, Mass. ; Enoch Sanders from Warren, Litchfield County, Conn. ; Silas Stoddard from Groton, Conn. These arrived before or about the year 1800. Of the few pioneers who still linger among the living, are the widow of John Swift, Abraham Foster, Isaac Springer, Mrs. Gain Robinson, Mrs. Ruth Durfee,* Mrs. John Hurlburt,* Mrs. Zebulon Williams, Col. James Stoddard, the widow* of Major Wm. Howe Cuyler, and Israel Delano. " Last swallows in autumnal noon-day seen— Last flowers, that painted the decaying green — Last fruit, that lingered, on life's drooping tree- Last stars to sink beneath the dark'ning sea." H. From this imperfect survey of the early settlers, I glance to the change in tlie agricultural interests. The tall, deep, glorious woods, have shrunk away as if affrighted, and, like trembling ante- lopes, seem huddled together on the tops of the hills. Farmers have pared down their woodlands to the quick. The very stumps and roots are now dissolved. The clear, polished shaft, that now passes through these mellow fields, would blush to own a relation to the old log, hewn out in the shape of a plow, by which the pioneers stirred these valleys Once, the lioe went before the Txoe-ccike. But now, corn will grow, if a horse but draw a five-legged machine on wheels between its rows ! Deceased since the delivery of this discourse. 15 Once, a farmer and his boys must how to the grain with the sickle and the scythe. JVow, the " lord of the manor " rides forth in a " triumphal chariot," and the standing fields bow to him. It was a hard day's work, with the flail and fan, to separate eight bushels of wheat from the straw and " chaff; but, like the " new threshing instrument " seen by Isaiah, we now in a single day can "thresh a mountain" of straw, and fill a granary with wheat. Your fathers, with an ox-sled, went to " Jerusalem " for the grinding, and to Geneva for the sale of their wheat, and that at 25 cents a bushel. Now, " the mountain is come to Mahommed " — Jerusalem is come to us. We can do our own grinding and sell- ing. The first mill, which was Jonah Howell's, ground three ker- nels into two ; ours puts the very bran through the bolt. If we follow the flour from the mill, we are at once introduced amid the rough necessities and severe virtues of their early homes. We hear the buzz of the wheel and the double stroke of the heavy loom — spinning the flax of their own fields, and weaving the wool of their own sheep. We see the daughters, in unconscious beauty, sprinkling long webs of "home-spun," spread out upon the green grass ; the mothers are weaving the Sunday dress for their hus- bands and sons, and they "are not afraid of the snow for their households." Before the modern belle shall blush at the simplicity of her grandmother, let her look up the old wheel in the garret, and "lay her hand to the spindle, and her hand hold the distaff." There may have been more refinement in weaving that early fab- ric, than in putting on the Parisian dress of the present day. In- stead of formal calls by cards, they tuorked while they visited at the " quilting," " husking," or " paring bee." In the early morn- ing, with the crowing of the cock, they could hear their neighbors pounding corn in the stump mortar. The close necessities of those early times connected many a homely incident with the wedding day. For a time it was said that Ruth Reeves, afterward Ruth Durfee, and Ruth Spear were the only unmarried damsels in the town, while like their ancient namesake they " gleaned among a whole field " of young men. The legend runs, that at the news of a fresh arrival from the east- ern Padan-aram, many a swain, smitten with the feelings of ancient 16 Isaac in his loneliness, was seen making his way down Mud Creek, to meet the boat, meditating who might be the Rebecca it might bear to him. Now we seem to be Padan-aram itself. Many from the east and the west resort here to bear away our Rebeccas and Rachels. It is indeed a sincere flattery, but we could wish they might " abide with us ;" — but if they must depart, we will give them our blessing and hope for them a safe arrival in Canaan. The first marriages were solemnized by the Esquire. A day's work, a load of wood, or a bushel of beans, were entered as the fee. They did better by Ministers. The first marriage attended by a clergyman was that of Eiias Reeves. He sent for the Rev. Ira Condit, of Canandaigua. His acquaintance with the good people at the wedding opened the way for a second visit, in which he organized the first Church, — thus we see that reverence for the marriage relation leads to the promotion of religion. Mutual struggles and hardships begat mutual equality, friendship and sympathies. It is by no means certain, that the refinements and virtues of social life have advanced, though very much changed from the type here presented. " Let not ambition mock their useful toil." " Oft did the harvest to their sickle yield, Their farrows oft the stubborn glebe hath broke, How jocund did they drive their teams afield, How bowed the woods beneath their sturdy stroke." III. Alike noticeable is the contrast between the early and more recent trade of this vicinity. The first store was a log edifice, on the very spot where the depot now stands. Zebulon Williams was the proprietor. That store is described as a place of genuine rural felicity. The In- dians encamped around it, spending their time in shooting, wrest- ling and dancing. The early settlers resorted to the same spot for amusement. Williams was the first to offer cash for wheat — thirty-seven cents a bushel — six cents a pound for butter. Money was tight. Deacon Henry Jessup was largely interested in the leather and shoe trade. Joseph Colt carried on an extensive and honorable business. Col. James Stoddard was employed by him to convey goods from Schenectady up the Mohawk, by Wood- 17 Creek and so to this place, and carry produce back in return, making the out and in passage once in two months. Mud-Creek was the incorporated thoroughfare of travel and exportation. Judge Rog- ers cut a sled-road to Lyons to bring up a load of salt. Ebenezer Spear traveled on foot to Schenectady to procure some wine as a medicine for Webb Harwood's family. Mrs. Bates, the mother of Mrs. Stephen Spear, to visit her relatives, rode on horseback, carrying a child in her arms, to Boston, Mass. Such were the difficulties of travel and trade. In reviewing the commercial changes of this place, we can but stop and pay a passing tribute to that great man, who undertook and achieved the stupendous work — an artificial river, three hun- dred and sixty miles in length. In it all, he showed a capacity, integrity and devotion to the good of the nation, which posterity may not forget. When his mind had grasped the grand conception, for fourteen years he devoted himself to this interest, without salary or reward. Against opposition and ignominy, he seized the compass and level and traversed on foot the wilderness intervening between Albany and Buffalo, and brought back a survey, by which he so presented the possibility and the advantages of this great work as to secure public opinion in its favor. In 1816, the work was authorized, — July 4th, 1817, the Erie Canal was commenced, — in October, 1825, it was finished. Clin- ton performed a most desirable " marriage service." He United the great Lakes with the Atlantic Ocean, and sent fruitfulness and life through half a hemisphere. Freight from Albany to Buffalo sank from one hundred dollars to ten. I shall leave your imaginations to draw the contrast between the early means of travel and conveyance and the present fleets of boats, the thundering trains of merchandise and passengers, and the telegraphic lightning. What have sixty-six years wrought ! Some of the early settlers were dissatisfied that they were so far removed from the main channels of travel and communication, little thinking that this valley of Mud Creek was to be the great sluice-way through which immigration and commerce were to pour their ever-increasing flood. 2 18 IV. In the review of their political sentiments and acts, we find the early settlers possessed of clear views of SELF-government. Throw together a number of New England men, in any wilderness or on any island of the watery waste, and the first thing you will hear of is a" town-meeting." The true idea of individual free- dom is connected with associated regulations and restraints. A mutual compact to be. governed by the majority is a seed of the " May-Flower." No. 12 was first called Swifttown, then Tolland. This not pleasing the citizens, in 1797, between March and June, a meeting was held to fix upon one of the names that should be suggested. Daniel Sawyer, the brother of Mrs. Swift, was then for two reasons in a literary mood. First, he was engaged to Miss Dosha Boughton, the first schoolmistress, — second, he had been reading ancient history. Doubtless thinking, that as ancient Pal- myra had a Zenobia, so his modern heroine should have a Palmyra, it is not strange that he should urge this name with felicity and success. It was adopted with acclamation. The first record of the town meeting is in 1796. It was held at the house of Gideon Durfee, the first Tuesday in April, 1796. John Swift was chosen "Moderator," " Inspector," and " Super- visor." The following are some of the acts passed at that meet- ing — evincing evidently that the power was with the people. " Voted, That a pound be erected near Daniel Sawyer's house. Voted, That the inhabitants of Tolland shall confine their swine, and that the owner of any swine that doth damage, shall be liable to make said damage good, without regard to fence. Voted, That a fence shall not be deemed legal unless it is five feet high; for the first three feet the logs to be no more than four inches from each other, and the rails and logs for the remaining two feet may be nine inches from each other. Voted, That the Town will vendue the marks of cattle and sheep to the highest bidder." Joel Foster bid off the first mark. It was a crop of the left ear. Jonah Howell obtained the second. It was a crop of the right ear. John Swift's was a half-penny under the right ear. Forty nine persons thus paid for marks to be applied exclusively to their own possessions. Voted, " That $5 00 shall be paid for every wolf that shall be taken within the town of Tolland. 19 Voted, That a bounty of two cents be paid on crows, squirrels, woodpeckers, and blackbirds." By an act of legislature, 1799, Mud Creek was established as a navigable stream. Mills could not be erected without locks. At Zebulon Williams' store, where the depot now stands, were the head waters of navigation. The following is the oath of office, taken by John Swift as first Supervisor : " I, John Swift, do solemnly and sincerely promise and swear, that I will in all things, to the best of my knowledge and ability, impartially execute and perform the trust reposed in me as Su- pervisor of the town of Tolland, and the county of Ontario, and that I will not pass any account or any article thereof, wherewith I shall think the county is not chargeable, — nor will I disallow any account or article thereof wherewith I shall think it is justly chargeable. Signed — John Swift." The acts of this town-meeting show the strong sense and honest purposes of the early yeomanry. They believed that good fences and well-defined regulations make good neighbors. It speaks well for the political wisdom and moderation of the pioneers, that, for eight years, there was not a single law-suit in the town. V. Next to the " town-meeting " is the school. If individual integrity and responsibility will originate the "town-meeting," the town-meeting will soon build the " school house." The first assembly of citizens was in 1793. The same year two school houses were erected ; one on the spot where David Daggett's house now stands. The land was given by Gen. Swift ; the other was in East Palmyra, known as the Hopkins' school house. They were built of logs. There was then no complaint of long wood, or want of ventilation. There was true excitement the first day of school. The fall work done, Thanksgiving passed, the shoemaker having been the rounds of his itineracy, and the feet, little and great, having been ".shod with the true preparation," the warm winter suit having been cut and made by the tailoress, then it is proclaimed that " the school-master " is abroad to line the inner man with " Daboll " and " Murray." The ordeal of the first day was a severe one. Every wight 20 and lass scrutinized the bearing of the new teacher, and cast upon how far it would be safe to venture, — and, as the " master " must "board around," he becomes a part of every family. If he works out the sums, if he vindicates his ability and character to the scholars and parents, the schoolmaster is the great man for that year. Do any of you remember those slab seats, the great fire place, the flat, tingling ''ferrule f" I think I have heard from some of you legends about your early schoolmasters, especially one Englishman, a sage by the name of " Gunning," who was sometimes beguiled into a nap in the after- noon, while the boys and girls keenly enjoyed his dreams. But in all this there was life, beauty and strength. Spelling, cyphering, parsing went bravely on. The " single and double Rule of Three," " Loss and Gain," the " Square and Cube Root,"— the higher Mathematics of " single and double Position," were some- times all surmounted in eight, ten, or twelve weeks. The study, the parsing of Pope's Essay on Man, the reading of the beautiful extracts in the " English Reader," or " Columbian Orator," often touched the latent genius of souls all pregnant with celestial fire, and started them on a career of improvement, that carried them up amid the sublimities of science and literature. Bless God and our fathers for the common schools! They have been the strong timbers in our civil fabric. Shall the school still continue the pure fountain of knowledge and virtue ? VI. Near the school house stood the church. For fifteen years, the school house was the first synagogue. We are told that on Sab- bath days, the families of East Palmyra used to meet with the families of Macedon for worship in this village, coming up and down Mud Creek in boats. The early ministers, of different denominations, were Rev. Messrs. Condit, Johnson, Roe, Lane, Fairbanks, Bell, and Townsend. Sabbath services have never been interrupted since the arrival of the Long-Island colony. For fifteen years private dwellings and school houses were the synagogues. In 1807, a meeting was called at East Palmyra to deliberate upon the erection of a house of worship. The question of locality called forth a sharp debate. Oliver Clark plead for the north side of the creek. $100 if on the 21 north side, — $50 if on the south side. Humphrey Sherman advo- cated the south side. $100 if on the south side — nothing if on the north side. The site was at length fixed, where the Presby- terian church, in East Palmyra, now stands. The building sub- scription amounted to $421. The edifice was fifty-four by sixty- four. Gideon Durfee and Humphrey Sherman gave the land, — Sherman the west half, Durfee the east half. Sherman contended that there were some men for whom it was not meet to provide seats on holy ground, and insisted that his side of the house should be occupied by the women. It is unnecessary to say that this regulation was poorly carried out. The house was raised in July, 1807. The architecture was neither Gothic, Corinthian, or Ionic, but exactly followed the style of the old South-Hampton church, built just one hundred years before . The pulpit rested upon one pedestal, and was built up with bass- wood boards, so bent that its shape resembled a candlestick — hav- ing reference, no doubt, to the light that was there to shine. The dedication of this first church edifice west of the pre-emption line, was an occasion of great interest. It was, perhaps, the natu- ral right of Benjamin Bell, the then acting pastor, to sound out the word of God for the first time from that pulpit. But lie, it was said, "had preached politics on the wrong side." The Rev. Mr. Powell, a highly-esteemed "Welch clergyman, was invited to preach the dedicatory sermon. The services were commenced by sing- ing the 67th Ps. Text— Gen. 28 — 17 : " This is none other than the house of God, and this is the gate of heaven." The preacher first alluded to those who had given the land — to the noble struc- ture of the house — to the rich and beautiful country, and closed by exhorting them to assemble there every Sabbath to hear the word of God. The exercises were concluded by singing the 132d Psalm, L. M. The first house of worship in this village, was built on the site of the old burying-ground. It was " set on a hill." It has since come down. Does it reach as high toward heaven ? Many of you can recal those early Sabbath days. You can remember the naked rafters — the room, without fire-place or stove, and " Deacon Foster's ark." There has been some change in the 22 externals. Have we now the same winter-strained piety, that will make its way through snow drifts and pelting rain, and sit with reverence and attention to long sermons and prayers ? Would your hearts so glow and burn at the great themes of redemption and eternity, as to repel the cold and the wind that blew through your hair? Have you such a hold upon your families, as to bring them, to the sanctuary, even thus bereft of attraction and comfort ? Is the Bible to you and your children a pillar of cloud by day and a pillar of fire by night, directing your way through the wilderness ? There was indeed rigor in their piety, but it bore the true super- scription ; it had the ring of the true metal. If the Mormon prophet and the Hydesville ghosts did hail from Palmyra, they did not stay here. If we must own the deceivers, the deluded belong elsewhere. The hill, where Joe Smith dug for golden plates — the printer — the old press that struck off his Bible, and the proof-sheets, are still with us, but of the Mormon and the Hapjyers, we know not a single follower. The prophet here is without honor, and the Foxes do not spoil our vines. I can only notice the date of the organization of the different churches. The Baptist church was organized in the house of Lemuel Spear, in 1800. In 1811, the Methodist church was formed; the Episcopal church in 1804; the Presbyterian church in 1793. In conclusion, I remark, 1st — How soon are we forgotten! When we visit the ruins of ancient Palmyra, the " Tadmor of the desert," we expect obscurity. A year ago, I visited the old cemetery at Plymouth Rock, and found the grave-stones moss-covered and il- legible. We were not surprised. They had stood up against the storms of more than two hundred winters. But shadow and dubi- osity are gathering over even the memories of your fathers and mothers. Grim Forgetfulness has begun his reign even here. It is difficult to trace out the events and pioneers of even this modern Palmyra. If, from want of time and knowledge, I have omitted names deserving a place among their fellows, they are not there- fore unhonored. We are obliged to sink particulars in generals, or rather to give specimens. True life and growth are uncon- scious — noiseless. Silent works are the most effective. We record 23 the work of torrents and tornadoes ; but the dew that comes down eveiy night — the constant flow of the streamlet — are unwritten only by the verdure they nourish. We take notice of the "queen bee ;" but the swarms of working bees that fill the cells with honey, are unmentioned. The name of the general is emblazoned ; but the rank and file that achieved the victory, are unsung. So in the history of this community. The prominent few are exponents of the quiet many. The "justices," "physicians," " generals," may have left some memorial in the city of the dead ; but around them sleep the multitudes — the strong anna that felled these forests — the useful mechanics— the patient mothers, that spun and wove, talked of General Washington, and taught the children the word of God — to all these there is an unwritten history, that will be published at another day. Reputation on earth is short and uncertain; but character, usefulness, goodness, "are graven with an iron pen and lead in the rock forever." Jesse Uawley, while in prison for debt in Canandaigua, 1810, wrote some articles on the route, distance, and cost, of a canal through Western New York. The poor man was thought insane ; but DeWitt Clinton saw method in his madness. Clinton has the monument ; Hawley lies unhonored by his side. But there is another edition of human history, "corrected and revised." 2d. This review illustrates the necessity and dignity of hard work. I am told that the native forests, especially on the lower grounds, were exceedingly dense. The trees were Anaks. How many strokes of the axe — how much plowing and drainage to clear and subdue these lands ! The first dwellings were without a particle of iron. The nails were of wood — the hinges and hasps of the door were of wood ! What monuments of mechanical ingenuity and toil are our public buildings, stores, factories, eligible and even elegant mansions. How many strokes of the pick-axe and spade to open this canal — raise up this railway ! Who shall estimate the brain labor — the heart work, in the way of mental, civil, and religious improvement ! What a change since John Swift struck the first blow ! We are even claiming the immunities of cities. We have our railway, 24 our telegraph — and when the sun goes down, instead of the pine knot and the " smoking lamp," a simple volition gives us the bril- liant lambent flame. It can be said of us, as of the tents of ancient Israel in Goshen — while darkness surrounds our neighbors, " we have light in our dwellings." "All things are full of labor." Our fathers have labored, and we have entered into their labors. Let not softness and delicacy think of bread without work ; for it is still true, " that by the sweat of thy face thou shalt eat thy bread, until thou return unto thy dust." 3d. God is in history. His hand is in the history of this town. Many of the decisions of the fathers proved pivots, upon which turned the destiny of the children. The visit of William Hopkins to Long Island, just at the right time, doubtless diverted from many of you the possession of the land upon which Cincinnati now stands. The father of John Hurlburt offered his son the choice of lands in Rochester or Palmyra ; he preferred the same number of acres in Palmyra. Pardon Durfee, too, contemplated purchasing the site of Rochester ; but when, on a survey of the country, he was at- tacked with fever and ague, he came home to Palmyra in disgust. Let not the greed of gain count these decisions unfortunate. You might have rode as millionaires; but it may well be questioned whether the industrious principles and virtuous competency re- ceived from your fathers, are not a safer inheritance than the indul- gence and dangers of overgrown wealth. In 1845, a delegate to the General Assembly at Cincinnati, from South Hampton, Long Island, met the venerable Luke Foster — who, as you will remember, was one of the first exploring party from Long Island. Half a century had passed away, and he had not heard from Joel Foster and Elias Reeves. Did they then compare the condition of their posterity, we doubt not the latter were in the majority as to numbers and true prosperity. My hearers, you have a goodly heritage. The Lord hath dealt bountifully with you. Lastly — In relinquishing our views of the past, we inquire, what shall we do for the future ? We have. looked upon what you have received through the principles and achievements of others. Will 25 you transmit this inheritance to those who shall come after you? There are some things in the early history of this town which we should regret and shun. Stephen Durfee used to say, " the first curse that came among us was whiskey." It was the ruin of many of the early settlers and their sons. " I," said the old vete- ran, "made the first move in the cause of temperance. In 1811, I raised my house without a drop of intoxicating drink." After- wards, the " Friends " adopted strict temperance as a part of their discipline. Many a strong man has been cast down by this enemy. It is a painful fact, that so noble a patriot as John Swift should be beguiled of his discretion, and fall a prey to the enemy through so insidious a foe. We would indeed go backward with a mantle of charity ; but as we look forward, we inquire, " Shall the sword devour forever ?" While you are warned to escape the dangers, I ask, will you imitate the virtues, and carry out the noble purposes of your an- cestors ? You stand upon their shoulders. What will you bear upon your shoulders ? Your fathers brought into this wilderness a Bible — an ojyen Bi- ble. They brought a Sabbath — a Puritan Sabuatli. They built their sanctuaries. On the Sabbath morning, the sun spread over these valleys the old-fashioned Sunday quiet. No sight, no sound, but in harmony with the sacredness of the scene. It was a day of rest — a day of heaven. What would they have said to these Sunday boats — these Sunday engines, snorting defiance in the face of the Almighty ! Your fathers brought here Bible families. Mothers taught their sons and daughters the word of God — "allured to brighter worlds, and lead the way." My hearers : You move over the graves of your fathers. Do you cherish their faith and their virtues ? Will you make as good a bequest to posterity as they did ? Three other towns in the west have taken their name, "Palmyra" from this. You are writing history. Others will read it. These hills and valleys will remain. Your posterity will turn on their Thanksgiving days upon your memory. They will come on pilgrimages to look at 26 your grave-stones. Shall the review stir the noble sentiment, the high resolve to promote intelligence, extend liberty — to honor God — to save the world ? Fathers — Mothers — ye children and grandchildren of noble sires — I leave you to answer the claim of the past, by a career that shall make glorious the history of the future. '• ... '" LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 109 451 8 1