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LEIGH'S GUIDE TO THE LAKES AND MOUNTAINS OF CUMBERLAND, WESTMORLAND, AND LANCASHIRE; Mlustratetr teitf) A MAP OF THE COUNTRY, AND MAPS OF WINDERMERE, DERWENT WATER, BORROWDAI.E, ULLSWATER, GRASMERE, RYDAL WATER, AND LANGDALE. Cfnttr IStrttton, CAREFULLY REVISED AND CORRECTED. - + LONRCIn * PRINTED FOR LEIGH AND SON, 421. STRAND, (REMOVED FROM 18, STRAND.) MDCCCXXXV. Price Seven Shillings. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, Duke Street, Lambeth. 543 'OZ • « « • • < c «*• e * ( ■ - ■■ - t c « <5 1 Its banks are adorned with wood, and varied with different objects — a bridge — a mill — a hamlet — a glade overhung with wood, — or some little sweet recess, or natural vista, through which the eye ranges, between irregular trees, along the windings of the stream." At Stanger, about two miles north of Lorton, is a mineral spring, said to resemble those of Cheltenham. At Scale Hill, about one mile from the foot of Crummock Water, is a commodious inn. Here the tourist may hire a boat, and row along the lake, to visit the cascade of Scale Force and the lake of Butter- mere, already described in the preceding route. Or, he may drive by Buttermere Hawse, from which there is a fine view of the two lakes, to the village of Butter- T BUTTERMERE. 97 mere, and thence visit Scale Force and the lake of Buttermere. From Buttermere he may return to Scale Hill, and thence to Keswick, by the Whinlatter road ; or pro- ceed to Keswick, through the Vale of Newlands, as described in the former route. 98 XI. From KESWICK to WAST WATER, ENNERDALE WATER, LOWES WATER, CRUMMOCK WATER, and BUTTERMERE WATER, ON HORSEBACK IN TWO DAYS. Miles. Keswick to Lowdore #3 Lowdore to Grange 1 Grange to Bowder Stone • i s Bowder Stone to Rossthwaite. .... 1 Rossthwaite to Seatallor 2 Seatallor to Seathwaite • 1 Seathwaite to Stye Head ,3 Stye Head to Wastdale Head 2 Wastdale Head to Strands 6 Strands to Gosforth , 4 Gosforth to Calder Bridge 3 First Day . . . . 27 Calder Bridge to Ennerdale Bridge ... 7 Ennerdale Bridge to Lamplugh .... 3 Lamplugh to Lowes Water 4 Lowes Water to Scale Hill 2 Scale Hill to Keswick by Buttermere and Vale of Newlands 13 Second Day. . , . 29 This is the most convenient plan of an excursion for persons who prefer riding on horseback, as it enables them to view Borrowdale as well as these five lakes in two days. On the first day, they will see Borrowdale and Wast Water ; and, on the second, Ennerdale Water, Lowes Water, Crummock Water, and Butter- mere. The road is in many places over very rugged BLACK LEAD MINES. 99 ground, particularly in the descent from Stye Head to Wastdale, so as to be not only difficult to travel, but, to delicate persons, laborious and alarming. Being passed, however, in the early part of the first day, the remainder of the ride from Wastdale Head to Calder Bridge is generally over smooth gound. The second day's ride from Calder Bridge is over a good road, though occasionally hilly. Those who think two days are not sufficient for this excursion, may occupy three, sleeping the first night at Strands, and the second at Scale Hill. The road from Keswick to Seatallor has already been described. Half a mile beyond Seatallor Bridge is Seathwaite Bridge, crossing an arm of the river Derwent. Beyond it is seen the village of Seathwaite, and crossing the head of the vale, appear Aaron End and Sparkling, with the shaggy surface of Great End rising above them. Keppel Crag and Hind Crag are on the left, and Bay's Brown on the right. Seathwaite is a small village at the extremity of Borrowdale, completely shut in by mountains, w T hich exclude the sun for a considerable part of the year. In Gillercoom, a circular recess in the hill to the right of Seathwaite, are the WAD, or BLACK LEAD MINES. They are situated on the south-eastern side of Sea- tallor Fell, a lofty mountain covered with hazels, except at the summit, w T here it is completely naked. These are the only mines of the kind in England* The period of their discovery is unknown, but they were certainly worked previous to the seventeenth L.3fC. f2 100 BLACK LEAD MINES. century, and have been occasionally open ever since. The mineral has also been found in Ayrshire, Inver- ness-shire, and in foreign countries, but of a very inferior quality. Various names have been given to the mineral found here, but as many of them denote other substances, they do not appear very appropriate. It is called on the spot, wad, and in other places plumbago, or black lead, though lead forms no part of its composition. The terms black cawke and graphite have likewise been applied to it. It is principally used for the manufacture of pencils, great quantities of which are made at Keswick; but is also employed in making crucibles, polishing iron, diminishing the friction of machinery, &c. The mine was formerly worked only at intervals, a sufficient quantity being procured in a short time to last for several years ; but the market being consi- derably extended, and the difficulty of finding the mineral increased, the working has lately been carried on more constantly. The wad is not found in veins, but in irregular masses, some of which weigh four or five pounds. Many of these pieces are of little value, being hard and gritty ; but those which are soft and of fine tex- ture are worth several guineas a pound. These masses are usually found in the form of a tree, the trunk being of the finest quality, and the branches inferior to it. When taken out of the mine, the wad is sorted ac- cording to its various qualities, and the best sent to London, where it is sold to the dealers once a month. The pencil-makers of Keswick receive their supply STYE HEAD. 101 from the metropolis, as the proprietors of the article will not allow any to be sold till it has been deposited in their own warehouse. At the entrance of the mine is a house, built for the residence of the overseer, and here the labourers are examined on leaving their work. The way from Seathwaite to the mine is over a rustic bridge, called Far Bridge. Beyond Seathwaite, the road dwindles to a mountain track, passable only by horses accustomed to the coun- try. To the right is a waterfall, called Taylor's Gill, which, after heavy rains, is a fine object, dashing from rock to rock with resistless fury. The avenue to this fall is through a profusion of trees, which assist in forming good subjects for the artist. After the tourist has proceeded about a mile, he crosses Stockley Bridge, a single arch of stone, and begins the ascent of the mountain called Sparkling or Stye Head. The road winds steeply up that part of the mountain called Aaron End, having, on the right, Bay's Brown, and Taylor's Gill Band. A retrospective glance will com- mand Borrowdale, Grange Fell, and Wallow Crag, above which appears Saddleback. Taylor's Gill mur- murs by the side of the tourist's path all the way to Stye Head Tarn. Stye Head is a steep and precipitous crag, situated between the two lofty mountains of Scaw Fell and Great Gavel. The summit rises about 1 ,250 feet above the adjacent vale : it is a rocky plain, about three- quarters of a mile in length, bounded on each side by slaty crags. In its centre is Sparkling or Stye Head Tarn, a deep lake, nearly a mile in circumference* 102 SCAW FELL. abounding with trout. Passing by this lake, the lofty crag of Great End is seen on the left ; and,, beyond it, the highest of the Scawfell Pikes. To the right is Great Gavel. If the tourist has leisure, he may deviate a little from his route to visit Sprinkling Tarn, which is connected with Stye Head Tarn by a stream about a mile long. It is situated beneath Great End Crag, and abounds with excellent trout. The ascent to it is steep. From the side towards Seathwaite, Stye Head com- mands a complete view of Borrowdale, and of the Vale of Keswick. The prospect from the opposite side of the hill is magnificent. In front rises the mighty Scaw Fell, towering above the intervening space, which comprehends the fertile valley of Wastdale; and, in the distance, appears the sea. SCAW FELL, or SCA FELL, The highest mountain in England, is divided into two summits, separated from each other by a deep chasm called Mickle Door. Both are surrounded by frightful precipices ; and the highest is surmounted by a pile of stones, raised for the purpose of the trigonometrical survey. The " Pikes," as it is here called, on the summit nearest to Stye Head, rises, according to the Trigonometrical Survey, 3,166 feet above the level of the sea. The southern summit, called Scaw Fell, is only 3,092 feet. Both the summits, but particularly the highest, command fine views : the Pikes may be most easily ascended from Seathwaite; and Scaw Fell, from Wast- WASTDALE HEAD. 103 dale Head or Eskdale. A guide will be aosolutely necessary, as the mountain is far more difficult of access than Helvellyn or Skiddaw. From Stye Head, the tourist descends by a steep and narrow track into the valley of Wastdale. The road is well defined, and kept in tolerable repair ; it is full of sharp turns and bends, which, though they lengthen the journey, render it much easier than if carried forward in a straight line. From the top of the Stye is seen the Vale of Wastdale, and in the dis- tance Yewbarrow. The road is carried down the side of Great Gavel, whose surface is one series of huge projecting rocks. On the left, over the deep ravine below the road, appear Great End and the Pikes, the latter being gradually lost behind Broad Crag. Nearer the bottom of the valley, projecting from the top of Lingmell, are Lingmell Crags. Over the lower end of Lingmell is seen a small portion of the lake, and beyond it the sea. At the foot of the pass, rude rocks are exchanged for soft verdure and an easy passage to Wastdale Head. Wastdale Head is a small and very rural hamlet, consisting of not more than a dozen houses, and a small chapel. It is surrounded by about 400 acres of level land, which is divided into fields by stone walls. There is no inn, but strangers may readily obtain refreshment of the farmers residing here, whose kind- ness they will, of course, acknowledge by a suitable donation. The tourist then proceeds along the northern shore of Wast Water, passing Over Beck Bridge, Nether 104 WAST WATER. Beck Bridge, and a few houses called Crook. An excursion up the stream from Over Beck Bridge would present some pretty scenery and a waterfall. The re- trospective views from the road along the lake should not be forgotten, as the mountains afford many good combinations. WAST WATER. This lake is about three miles in length, and three-quar- ters of a mile at its greatest breadth. It is remarkable for its depth, which is between 40 and 50 fathoms, and. is never frozen over. The mountains surrounding Wast Water are lofty and majestic; but its immediate banks present but little variety. The whole of the south-east shore consists of a high ridge called the Screes, fragments of which are constantly falling into the water. The north-west shore is not so lofty, and gradually loses its mountainous character as it ap- proaches the foot of the lake, which is adorned with wood. The mountains bounding the west side of the lake are Buckbarrow, Middle Fell, and Yewbarrow. On the north of Middle Fell runs Nether Beck, and on the south of Yewbarrow, Over Beck ; these rivers and the lake enclosing three sides of an extensive plot of cultivated land, called Bowderdale : on the four sides rise rugged mountains, the most prominent of which is Knott End. Lingmell, which is the base of Scawfell and the Pikes, lies at the northern end or head of the lake ; and Latterbarrow on the south. Wast Water abounds with trout, and char are occa- sionally caught in it. MAYBOROUGH. 113 Miles. Eamont Bridge 1 Arthur's Round Table £ Mayburgh ... £ Return to Arthur's Round Table . \ Lowther Bridge J Brougham Hall { Countess's Pillar \\ Brougham Castle J Penrith \\ 6 Eamont Bridge crosses the river of the same name, which here forms the boundary between Cumberland and Westmorland. On each side of it are houses, which together form a considerable village. Contiguous to the road is Arthur's Round Table, a curious memorial of ancient times. It is a circular green spot, 29 yards in diameter, enclosed by a ditch and mound, both in sufficient preservation to show its original form. It is supposed to have been the scene of tournaments in the days of chivalry. MAYBURGH,or Mayborough^o the west of Arthur r s Round Table on the right of the road towards Pooley Bridge, is a hill, on the summit of which is a circular enclosure, 100 yards in diameter, formed by a ridge of pebble-stones curiously constructed. Near the centre of the circle is a massive column of unhewn stone, 1 1 feet in height, and 22 feet in circumference about the middle. Some have supposed that Mayburgh was a Roman amphitheatre ; and others, that it was a druidical temple or court of judicature. The tourist then returns to Arthur's Round Table, a quarter of a mile beyond which is Lowther Bridge, crossing the river Lowther. Passing from the bridge 114 BROUGHAM CASTLE. on the Appleby road, in front is seen Brougham Hall, partially obscured by trees. Brougham Hall, the seat of the celebrated states- man and orator, is a venerable fabric, erected at va- rious periods, and surrounded by shrubberies and pleasure-grounds. From the terrace, in front of the house, there are fine views. Half a mile from Brougham Hall is Clifton Hall, once the residence of the Wyberghs, now reduced to a solitary tower. From the rectory-house of Clifton there is a good view. The Countess's Pillar is situated in Whinfield Park, about fifty yards beyond the third mile-stone on the old road to Appleby. It was erected in 1656, by Ann, Countess Dowager of Pembroke, in honour of her mother, Mary, Countess Dowager of Cumberland. Brougham Castle is a noble ruin, standing on the site of the ancient Brovoniacum, at the junction of the Eamont and the Lowther. This was formerly the castle of the Viponts, from whom it descended to the Cliffords, and thence to the Tuftons, Earls of Thanet, in whose family it still remains. Other Excursions may be made from Penrith to the following places : — Giant's Cave, 3J miles distant, situated on the banks of the Eamont. This cavern is said to have been inhabited, in former times, by a notorious robber. Long Meg and her Daughters, at Little Salkeld six miles north-east from Penrith. This is one of the LOWTHER CASTLE. 115 most remarkable druidical circles in the north of Eng- land. It is situated on the top of a small hill, and is formed by 67 stones, many of which are 10 feet in height, and one of them 15. LOWTHER CASTLE, The magnificent seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, and one of the finest mansions in England, is situated about five miles from Penrith. It is surrounded by an exten- sive and well- wooded park, on the banks of the river Lowther. Lowther Castle was erected a few years since on the site of an old and decayed mansion, which had been partly destroyed by fire. It is a noble structure of pale freestone. The principal front, towards the north, presents numerous towers of different forms and elevation, surmounted with battlements, and pierced with slit windows, so as to resemble an ancient castle: it is 420 feet in length. That towards the south has a totally different character, being adorned with niches, pinnacles, and cloisters in the Gothic style. The views from the terrace, along the principal front, are beautiful. The interior is fitted up in the Gothic style, and all the principal apartments display great taste. The staircase, which is 90 feet in height and 60 feet square, is particularly splendid; and many of the rooms are adorned with choice specimens of painting and sculpture. Strangers are allowed to see the inte- rior every day. 116 XIII. From PENRITH to ULLSWATER and PATTERDALE. Miles. Penrith to Pooley Bridge, by Dalemaia . . • • . 6 Pooley Bridge by Watermillock, to Gowbarrow Park . 4 Gowbarrow Park to Patterdale 5 Return to Penrith 15 30 From Penrith the tourist may proceed to Pooley Bridge, either by Eamont Bridge, Yanwath, and Tyrril, five miles ; or along the Keswick road, and through the beautiful grounds of Dalemain, six miles. Of course, he may see both roads, by going one way and returning the other. Pooley Bridge, at the foot of Ullswater, is a small village, situated on the river Eamont, and much re- sorted to by fly-fishers during the fishing season. It has an inn called the Sun, where the tourist may be well accommodated. No post-horses, however,, are kept; but saddle-horses and jaunting-cars may be obtained here, as well as boats for the lake. The charge for a boat with sculls to go up to the head of the lake and return, is 7s. Qd., or with oars, 10