-^ ^ 7- sj «v- SB<=\j| ^^€tAyify^/.=,A^... UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. THE YOUNG GARDENEK'S ASSISTANT: CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OP GARDEN AJfD FLOWER SEEDS, WITH f RACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD, FOR THE CULTIVATION OF CULINARY VEGETABLES AND WITH DIREC^DNS FOR CULTIVATING PHUIT TREES, THE GRAPE VIBfB; I'C. 4-c. 4'C. %. ^ BY T^SrIDGEMAN, - GARDENER, SEEDSMAN AND FLORIST, NEW-YORK. '* The end of all instruction should be the attainment of useful knowledge," PRINTED AND £OLD BY VV. MITCHELL, 265 BOWERY; Sold by the Author, corner ofldth streetaml Rnweiy Road, immediately norihof T'liion P.ace ; G C Thorburn, G7 Librrty street ; Alexander Smith, 38'j Hroadway, and other Seedsmen and Florists; by J. Stanley and Co. 418 Broadway ; J. G. Shaw, 134 Bowery, and the BooJigel- l«s in general. 1835, [Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1835, by Thomas Bridgeman, in the Clerk's ^ce of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New- York, in the Second Circuit.] ^' #■ // ADVERTISEMENT. It is presumed that this edition of the "Young Gardener's Assistant'' will be found generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the management of their own gardens. The author's object, as stated in the preface to the first edition, has been satisfactorily accomplished, which the followmg statement of facts will show. One hundred and fifty copies of that edition were retailed by Messrs. Thorburn & Sons, within a month after it was published, and subsequently, upwards of a thousand.— Messrs Smith & Co., and other Seedsmen in New- York, have also been successful in circulating many hundreds of them, and the author has been gratified by learning that the work has been extensively circulated in various parts of the country. The author might here cite the opinions of many practical gardeners in favour of the work, but after the encouragement given to previous editions, he is perfectly willing that the present one should speak for itself. IndeeJ, to enumerate all the commenda- tions passed on this humble attempt to promote useful knowledge, would exceed our limits. Suffice it to state, that the work has been respectfully noticed and recommended to public patronage, by the editors of the following periodicals : American, Commercial, Courier and Enquirer, Evening Post, Gazette, Journal of Com- merce, Mercantile and Advocate, Old Countryman, Standard, Traveller, Weekly Messenger, the New- York Farmer, the American Farmer, and the Albany Argus, besides many of those periodical publications, devoted to agricultural pursuits, in diflferent parts of the country. It appears from an article in the New-York Farmer and Hor- ticultural Repository, that this little work has been noticed in France. The editor informs us, in page 295 of the 4th volume, dated Nov. 10, 1831, that "one of the leading articles in the second IV ADVEBTISEMENT. number of the present volume of the ' Aniiales de L'lnstilute Royal Horticole de FromonV is a long notice of the Young Gardener's Assistant, by Mr. Thomas Briogeraan, of tbis city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, speaks of the bttle work in very commendable terms." It is not pretended that this work contains copious directions, calculated to make every man a nurseryman, or propagator of exotic plants ; but the author flatters himself, that it will be found to contain sufficient information for those who miy wish to become their own gardeners. The directions for the cultivation of ve- getables, are the result of fifteen years' assiduous practice and observation, as a market gardener; and it is presumed that the author's experience in other departments of gardening, has been sufficient to warrant him in this attempt (o instruct those who have not hitherto become acquainted with the art. The author considers it not derogatory to acknowledge, that he has frequently compared his ideas with those of other authors, and that he has, in some instances, availed himself of the benefit of their instructions; but he is not aware that in so doing, he has adopted any ideas merely speculative ; to avoid wliicii, he has invariably submitted such manu- script to the scrutiny of aged and experienced gardeners, of his acquaintance, and the result has generally been such as to confirm him in his original positions. It must appear evident to the reader, on a review of this little work, that the author, in adopting the catalogue form, has been enabled to give as much information as is necessary to the culti- vation of each particular kind of vegetable, in a condensed form; whereas, had he pursued the same course as most of his predecessors have done, his book would have been considerably larger, and the reader must have been at the trouble of perusing the greater part of it, at least twelve times in the course of a year. — ihe author, however, being aware of the convenience of a calendar, has, in this edition, annexed a short one, with a view to assist the memory of the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may find employment in some of the departments of gardening in every month of the year. The author, having shown his primary object in adopting the catalogue farm, j>;esumes that hisreadtrs will not be disappointecj, if they do not had there the names of all the species or varieties of ADVERTISEMENT. V plants they may wish to introduce into their gardens, the mode of culture of such being generally aUke. If a catalogue of this kind was essential, it would occupy more space than is allotted for this book ; besides, it would be impossible to keep pace with our enterprising Horticulturists and Florists, who are continually introducing new species into our country. When, also, is it con- sidered that there are a number of indigenous plants at present unknown to us, it will appear evident, that the most extensive catalogue would not be perfect in this respect for any length of time. The author, therefore, thought it unnecessary to attempt any thing more, than that which is essential to the attainment of a tolerable ^hare of the products of the garden, by ordinary exertion. How far he has succeeded in this respect, must be left for the reader to decide. THOMAS BRIDGEiMAN. Bowery Road, January^ 1835. PREFACE TO THE FIRST E D I T I O N.^ The object of this Iilt!e work is to enable our respectable seedsmen, while they are furiiishing a calalocrne of seeJs for the use of the Kitchen and Flower Garden, to afford instructions, at a trifling expense, to such of their customers as may not have a regular gardener, and thereby save themselves the blame of those who may not give their seeds a fair trial, for want of knowing bow to dispose of them in the ground. The author being a seedsman himself, is aware that however anxious his fellow tradesmen may be to sell such seeds as will please their customers, they are sometimes charged with dishonest intentions, from the failure of seeds, when the fault lies not with them, but with the gardener. He will endeavour, therefore, in his humble v/ay, to render himself useful both to the seedsman and the gardener, by givmg brief directions for the management of the Kitchen Garden, in swch a way as to insure success. In doing this he would remind the public, that as brevity must be consulted iu this work, he cannot be expected, in a few pages, to do that justice to a subject which is only to be found in the books of eminent horficuUurists. He hopes, however, to be sufficiently exphclt to give his reader? a taste for the pleasurable and profitable, as vy^ell as healthful emfiiuj'ment of gardening, and thereby lead them tc the perusal of other works of a more extensive nature. He also intends to devote a few pages to the attention of our fair country- women, and direct them to a rational and delightful recreation. To this end he will, (after furnishing a cafabsiue of some of the most esteemed kinds of flower seeds,) give brief directions for promoting the growth of these seeds, while in the seed bed, leaving it to thrir own good taste and judgment to arrange the plants of those beauties of nature, so as to set them ofTto the best advantage. PREFACE. Vll The Author is aware that the occupation of gardening is attended with difficulties, but he flatters himself that in proportion as his readers feel interested in the welfare of (heir veaetable pro- geny, in like proportion will they obtain pleasure and satisfaction in their successful emyloyment. To obtain this, he would recom- mend them to make up their minds as to what vegetables or flowers they intend to introduce into their gardens, and then, after having procured good seeds, let them have every suitable implement ready to begin the work at the proper seasons for preparing and planting the garden. These will be shown in the following pages, inter- spersed with directions on some other important subjects connected with this undertaking. Boioery Road, January, 1829. PR EFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION. Fifteen years' experience as a gardener, and seven as a seedsman, has convinced the author of the importance of correct information on the subject of gardening. It is certain that a great proportion of the failures and disappointments of which cultivators complain, are occasioned through want of minute attention to points apparently trilling, ratlier than from any fault in the seed, which is the general pica of those who do not succeed, to their satisfaction, in producing the fruits of the earth. The preparing a piece of ground, and the depositing of seeds therein, may appear to many an employment that requires but little attention and knowledge ; but, when it is considered that the products of a garden are natives of various climates and soils, and that some vegetables can only be raised in cool and temperate weather, whilst others require the heat of the summer to bring them to perfection, it must appear evident that a gardener should watch the seasons as they pass, so as to give the various sorts of seeds and plants a fair chance, and that he should be particular in planting his seeds at suitable depths and distances, according to their nature and dimensions, as an opiwrtunity of raising some Vlll PREFACE. of the luxuries of the garden being lost for the year, may occasion more anxiety an sow some of the Short Top Scarlet by the middle of March. If the ground should not be in good condition to receive the seed at this time, let it be delayed a few days, and by the first of April take care to have another bed prepared in the open ground, by digging in some good strong manure. The seed may be sown broadcast, and raked evenly in. If you wish to have Radishes in regular succession, sow seeds of the most esteemed kinds every two weeks until the middle of May : if any be sown after this, it should be the sorts described in the second column of our catalogue. These will endure the heat better than the others, and may be sown in drills in small quantities throughout the Summer, until the latter end of August, when all the kinds may be sown in regular succession until the first of October. Market gardeners may prepare the ground with a plough, and cover such seeds as may be sown broadcast with a harrow. ROCAMBOLE. Ail d'espagne. Allium scorodoprasum. This and the Allium Sativum, or common Garlic, is raised in some gardens. Many people consider the Rocambole to be of a milder and better flavour, but the bulbs are not so large as those of the Garlic. This is a very hardy plant, and will grow in almost every soil or situation. It is propagated either by the roots or seeds ; the former ought to be separated and planted at the same time, and in the same manner, as Shallots. "When raised from seed, they may be sown in drills, either shortly after the seeds are ripe, or in the suc~ BHUBARB. 69 ceeding Spring ; they require only to be kept clear of weeds, and in the following Autumn may be taken up, the bulbs parted, and planted as before. RHUBARB. Rhubarbe. Rheum. Rhubarb is a genus of exotic plants, comprising seven species, of which the following are the principal. 1. The Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb, a native of Thrace and Syria, which has long been cultivated in British gardens for the footstalks of the leaves, that are frequently used in pies and tarts. 2. The Rheum undulatum is also cultivated for the same use. 3. The Palmatum, or true Officinale Rhubarb, is a native of China and the East Indies, whence its culture has been introduced into Europe ; it produces a thick fleshy root, externally yellowish brown, but internally of a bright yellow colour, streaked with red veins. It grows to good perfection in Scotland, as far north as Perthshire, (lat. 5Q,') also in England, Turkey, and various other parts of Europe. When the importance of this root is considered as a medicine, it is a matter of astonishment that it has not been more generally introduced into the United States. The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagated by oflfsets, taken from the roots early in the Spring, or from seed sown late in the Fall, or in March and the early part of April. The indispensable points to the production of good roots of the Palmatum, are depth and richness of soil, which should be well pulverised before the plants are set out. Prepare beds oi fine mould eighteen inches deep j in these put in the plant* 7* 70 RHUBAEB. from the seed bed, ten or twelve inches apart ; this must be done when they have attained the height of four or five inches, and have thrown out as many- leaves. The first season is the most critical, and much care is necessary. If the weather be hot, the nursery must be shaded, and at all events continually watered ; for water, though hurtful to old plants, is now of the first consequence. Wet weather is the most proper time to plant in. The beds must be kept free from w^eeds through the Summer, and on the approach of severe w^eather, covered up with dry litter. In the early part of the Spring this must be taken off, and in the beginning of April the plants must be transplanted into ground dug and prepared as directed for Asparagus. Those wi)o cultivate the Palmatum for the sake of the roots, should dig the ground two or three spades deep, and place the plants three feet apart every way. As to the other kinds it is not so particular, so as the plants have room to grow. In the early part of November, the leaves being then decayed, the beds should be covered with dry litter ; before this is done, a little earth should be drawn round the crowns of the plants. If there be any danger of w^ater lodging, make trenches to carry it off. In the month of March the beds should be stripped of their covering, and the ground well hoed and cleared of weeds. The roots of the Palmatum must not be taken up until six or seven years old. The stalks of the other kinds may be cut every Spring, as soon as the leaves are expanded. After being stripped of their outer covering and cut up into small pieces, they are used in pies and tarts. Cobbett supposes, "that a hundred wagon loads of Rhubarb stalks are annually sold in the markets of London, at a shilling sterhng per SALSIFY. 71 bunch." (American Gardener.) Rhubarb makes an excellent preserve when cut into small pieces about an inch and a half long;, and parboiled with sugar. If Rhubarb stalks be required for use early in the Spring, they may be obtained by placing flour barrels or deep tubs over some of the plants, and covering them up with fresh stable dung, or by any of the methods pointed out in the article under the head of Forcing Vegetables. In England, large drying houses have been erected, for the purpose of curing the roots of the Palmatum ; but this business may be done in this country as it is done in China: by the heat of the sun. After the roots have been well washed, the small fibres should be cut off. These are then cut transversely into pieces of about two inches thick, and dried on boards, turning them several times a day, in order to prevent the escape of the yellow juice, on which its medicinal qualities depend. In four or five days, they may be strung upon strings, and suspended in a shady, but airy and dry situation, and in two months afterwards they will be fit for the market. SALSIFY. Salsifis ou Cercifis. Tragopogon porrifolius. This plant grows spontaneously in the open fields in England, and is by some highly valued for its white eatable root, and for the young shoots rising in the spring from plants a year old ; these, when gathered while green and tender, are good to boil and eat in the manner of Asparagus. Some have carried their fondness for this plant so far as to call it Vegetable 72 SCORZONERA. Oyster. It requires the same kind of soil and ma- nagement as carrots and parsnips. The seeds may be sown the latter end of March, or early in April, an inch deep in drills twelve inches apart. When the plants are two or three inches high, they should be thinned to the distance of six inches from each other, and afterwards hoed. The ground should be kept clean and loose round the plants, by repeated hoeings ; and in the autumn they will be fit for use. The roots may be taken up late in the fall, and secured in moist sand from the air ; or be suffered to remain out, and dug up when wanted. The mode of cooking recommended by an American author is, ''to cut the roots transversely into thin pieces ; boil them in water, or milk and water ; when boiled soft, mash them and thicken the Avhole with flour to some degree of stiffness ; then fry them in the fat of salt pork or butter ; they are a luxury." In England the tops are boiled, and served up with poached eggs, &c. SCORZONERA. ScoRSONERE. Scorzonera Hispanica. This plant has long been raised in British gardens for culinary purposes, and especially as an ingredient in soups, on account of its palatable and nourishing roots. Some boil and eat them like carrots, &c. ; in which case, they should be deprived of their rind, and immersed in cold water for half an hour, or they will be bitter. They are raised precisely in the same manner as Salsify. If the seed be sown in April, in a good deep soil, the roots will attain perfection in SEA-XALE. 73 autumn, and continue good all the winter. They last from three ,to four years, according to the quality of the earth and care bestowed on them ; but it is ])etter to raise a few from seed every year. SEA-KALE. Chou MARIN. Cramhe maritima. This plant is found on the sea-shore in the southern parts of England, where it grows spontaneously. As soon as it appears above ground, the inhabitants re- move the pebbles or sand with which it is usually covered to the depth of several inches, and cut off the young and tender leaves and stalks, asyetunexpanded and in a blanched state, close to the crown of the root ; it is then in its greatest perfection. When the leaves are full grown, they become hard and bitter, and the plant is not eatable. It is cultivatetl in private gardens, and for Sale in various parts of England. Cultivators have differed widely respecting the mode of treating this plant; many conceiving that stones, gravel, and sea sand, are essential to its growth, have gone to the expense of providing it : but it has been discovered that it will grow much more luxuriantly in a rich sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great depth. The seeds of Sea-Kale may be sown in October, or as early in the Spring as the ground can be brought into good condition, in drills an inch and a half deep, and fourteen or sixteen inches asunder ; the plants should be afterwards thinned out to the distance of six or eight inches from each other in the rows, and kept clear of weeds by frequent hoeings through th(^ 74 SEA-KALE. summer. When the plants are a year old, every third row may be taken up, and also every other plant in each row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen inches apart ; these may be transplanted into good ground prepared as directed for Asparagus. Plant two rows in each bed, about eighteen inches apart; the best way is to make two drills three inches deep, and with a dibble set in the plants fifteen or sixteen inches from each other ; when these drills are filled, the crowns of the plants will be covered nearly two inches, but they will soon push through the earth. The plants left in the seed bed may form a permanent bed, which should be forked or dug between the rows ; previous to this being done, lay on an inch or two of good rotten manure, and incorporate it with the earth around the plants. Some make new plantations with pieces of old roots, which should be cut up in lengths of about two inches, and planted in March or April, three or four inches deep, at the distances before directed for the plants. At the approach of winter, the leaves will dio away and disappear. The beds should be then thickly covered with dung, leaves or sea weed ; this will not only protect the plants from frost, but will cause them to shoot up early in the spring. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this may be taken ojQf, or if well rotted, it may be mixed up with the earth ; the crowns of the plants should then be covered to the depth of ten or twelve inches for blanching. Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand ; some, common sand and gravel ; and others with large gar- den pots inverted, and placed immediately over the- plants. If ihese pots be covered up with fresh horse dung, it will forward the shoots in growth, and mak«t them sweeter and more tender. SEA-KALE. 76 When your plants have been covered in either method three or four weeks, examine them, and if you tind that the stalks have shot up three or four inches, you may begin cutting ; should you wait till all the shoots are of considerable length, your crop will come in too much at once, for in this plant there is not that successive growth which there is in As- paragus ; you may continue cutting until you see the heads of flowers begin to form ; and if at this time you uncover it entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which Broccoli is usually cut, and use it as such, you will find it an excellent substitute ; and this greatly enhances the value of the plant ; as Broccoli does not stand our Avinter frost, and can only be had when carefully protected, as recommended under that head; but this plant is sufficiently hardy to bear our winter^s frost without much injury. You are not to weaken the roots too much by over-cutting, for in that case it would injure their next year's bearing; some of the shoots should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper vegetation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great care should be taken in cutting, not to injure the crowns of the roots by cutting the shoots too close to them. Sea-Kale should be dressed soon after is cut, as the goodness of the article greatly depends on its not being long exposed to the air. If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all round a small bed, about three feet wide and thirty inches deep ; fill it with hot dung, and as it sinks, raise it." This will make the plants grow ; and if hand lights are set over them, it will accelerate their growth. 76 SORREL. SORREL. OsEiLLE DES JARDINS. Rumux acetostt. The seeds of the Broad Leaved EngHsh Sorrel, and also of the Round Leaved or French Sorrel, may be sown in April and May, in beds or borders, and covered lightly. When the plants are up, keep them free from weeds ; they may be afterAvards thinned to the distance of nine inehes from each other, or trans- planted into fresh ground. The old standing roots of either kind may be sepa- rated and planted for increase ; this should be done in April. As fast as the plants shoot up to seed, cut them down close, and a new crop of leaves wiilbe produced. It is used raw as a salad, or boiled for greens. SKIRRET. Chervis, ou Gyrole. Sium sisarum. This plant is cultivated first by seed, and afterwards by offsets taken from the old roots, and planted very early in the spring, and before they begin to shoot ; but it is best to raise a small bed from seed every year, as the roots grow longer than those raised from slips, and are less liable to be sticky. The seed may be sown in drills the latter of March, or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify, Parsnips, &c. In Autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots will be fit to use, and continue so till they begin to «hoot in the Spring. Skirrets should be planted in a light moist soil, for In dry land the roots are generally small, unless the SHALLOT. 7-^ season proves wet. The root of the Skirret is com- posed of several fleshy tubers, as large as a man's finger, and joining together at the top. They are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold with oil and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the taste and flavour of a Parsnip, but a great deal more palatable. SHALLOT. EcHALOTE. Allium Ascalonicum. The true Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is considered to possess the most agreeable flavour of any of the Allium genus ; it is consequently highly deserving of cultivation. They are propagated by planting bulbs or offsets in the fall of the year, which may be set out with a dibble, in rows twelve inches apart, by four to six inches distance in the rows ; or they may be placed in drills two or three inches deep, and covered up with a trowel or hoe. The gardeners about New-York plant large quantities of the bulbs early in September ; by this means they are enabled to supply the markets in April and May with a Mild Allium which meets a ready sale. After the tops die down, the bulbs must be taken up, and the offsets divided : '^a portion of these should be kept in a dry place to plant the ensuing autumn. 78 BPINACH. SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. Epinard. Spinacia, VARIETIES. Round Leaved. I Flanders, or Large Leaved. Prickly, or Angular Leaved. | Holland, or Lamb's Quarter. New Zealand, or Tetragona Expansa. The Spinacia Oleracea, or common Spinach, is very hardy, and consequently a very important vegetable for cold climates. It merits attention from its being extremely v^holesome and palatable, and from its keep- ing green even after having been cooked. Tt makes a delicious dish when served up with the gravy of roast meat, melted butter, &c. As Spinach is the only vegetable that can be raised to advantage the latter end of the year, the gardener should prepare such ground as may have been occu- pied by Summer crops towards the end of August ; and by having it well manured, it will be in good condition for Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, &c. the Spring following. If the ground be got ready, so as to have several beds sown in succession from the first to the end of September ; the forwardest of these, if covered up with straw at the approach of cold weather, will furnish greens for the table when other vegetables are scarce, and the latter crops will recover the effects of a hard winter, and produce a wholesome vegetable early in the spring. If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March and April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut before the approach of hot weather, or it will run to seed. To raise it in perfection at this season, it should be sown in drills about a foot apart, and kept culti- vated by frequent hoeing ; this will keep it in a growing state, and consequently prevent its running up to seed so quick as it otherwise would. SQUASH. 79 It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor ground ; let the ground be well manured, ^yiih. good strong dung, and it will well reward you for your trouble by its abundant produce. The New Zealand Spinach is of late introduction into this country ; its natnre seems to be opposite to the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat better than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer, by planting the seeds in April and May. Being of luxu- riant growth, it should be planted in hills three feet apart, and about two seeds in a hill. The leaves will be fit for use during the summer, and until late in the fall. SaUASH. Gourde Giraumon ou Potiron Cucurbita melopepa» Early Bush Squash. Early Crookncck. Large Summer Bell. VARIETIES. Vegetable Marrow, Winter Crook Neck. Lima Cocoa JNut. The several varieties of Squashes are very useful in this and other warm climates, as they can be grown in perfection in the summer, and therefore prove a good substitute for Turnips, which cannot be raised in perfection in hot weather. They should be planted in hills, prepared in the same manner as for Cucum- bers and Melons, and their subsequent management is the same in every respect. The bush kinds should be planted three or four feet apart, and the running kinds from six to nine, according to their nature, as some will run more than others. It is always best to plant five or six seeds in a hill, to guard against acci- 80 TOMATO. dents ; as when the plants are past danger, they can be thinned to two or three in a hill. The fruit of the Early or Summer Squashes should be gathered for use before the skin gets hard, and while it is so tender as to give way to a moderate pressure of the thumb nail. The Winter Squashes should be suffered to ripen, and collected together in October, in the manner recom- mended in the calendar for that month. TOMATO. ToMATE, ou PoMME d'amour. Solanum Lycoper- sicu?n, varieties. Large Squash Shaped, | Cherry Shaped. The Tomato, or Love Apple, is much cultivated for its fruit in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an agreeable acid flavour ; and is also stewed and dressed in various ways, and very much admired. The seeds should be sown early in March, in a slight hot-bed, and the plants set out in the open ground, if settled warm weather, in the early part of May. In private gardens it will be necessary to plant them near a fence, or to provide trellises for them to be trained to, in the manner recommended for Nastur- tiums ; they will, however, do very well if planted out four feet distant from each other every way. Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in the Summer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the first week in May ; these plants will be lit to trans- plant early in June. TURNIP. 81 TURNIP. Navet. Brassica rapa. VAKIETIES. Earlv Garden Stone. Early White Dutch. Swans' Ego;. EarJy Red Top. Early Green Top. Yellow Stone. Yellow Maltese, Large English Norfolk. Long Tankard, or Hanover. White Flat, or Globe. Large Bullock. Yellow Altringham. Dale's Yellow Hybrid. Yellow Aberdeen. Long YeHow French. J p 1 Russia, Swedish, or Ruta Baga. This is a wholesome and useful plant, both for man and beast, and highly deserving of cultivation. Its being the last esculent vegetable on our catalogue, that is raised from seeds sold at our several seed stores, I shall endeavour to stimulate those of our yeomanry who have hitherto neglected the culture of this field, as well as garden production, to exertion and diligence, by inserting a few short extracts from a paper that now lies before me. The following statement relates to a country that contains only about sixty millions of acres, capable of cultivation, and which supports up- wards of twenty millions of human beings, besides millions of brutes, from the products of its soil ; she also exports vast quantities of some kinds of produce from this source . " Culture of Turnips. — Until the beginning of the eighteenth century, this valuable root was cultivated only in gardens, or other small spots for culinary pur- poses; but Lord Townsend, who attending King George the First in one of his excursions to Germany, in the quality of Secretary of State, observed the Turnip cultivated in open and extensive fields, as fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility over lands naturally barren, on his return to England, brought over some of the seed, and strongly recommended the 8* 82 TURNIP^ practice which he had witnessed, to the adoption of his own tenants, who occupied a soil similar to that of Hanover. The experiment succeeded ; the cultivation of Field Turnips gradually spread over the whole county of Norfolk, and has made its way into every other district of England. The reputation of the county as an agricultural district, dates from the vast improvements of heaths, wastes, sheep walks, and warrens, by enclosing and manuring ; the fruits of the zealous exertions of Lord Townsend and a few neigh- bouring land owners, which were ere long imitated by others. Since these improvements were effected, rents have risen in that county from one or two shillings to twenty shillings an acre ; a county, con- sisting chiefly of sheep walks and rabbit warrens, has been rendered highly productive, and by dint of ma- nagement, what was thus gained, has been preserved and improved even to the present moment. Some of the finest corn crops in the world are now growing upon land, which, before the introduction of the Turnip husbandry, produced a very scanty supply of grass for a few lean and half-starved rabbits. " Mr. Colquhoun, in his 'Statistical Researches,' estimated the value of the Turnip crop annually grow- ing in the united kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland at fourteen million pounds sterling, (equal to upwards of SIXTY MILLIONS OF DOLLARS.) But whcU We further recollect, that it enables the agriculturist to reclaim and cultivate land, which without its aid, would remain in a hopeless state of natural barrenness, that it leaves the land clean and in fine condition, and also to insure a good crop of Barley and a kind plant of Clover, and that this Clover is found a most excel- lent preparative for Wheat, it will appear that the subsequent advantages derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitelv exceed its estimated value as fodder for TURNIP. 8S cattle.^* (Sir William Scott in the Quarterly Review.) As I have undertaken to ''assist the Young Gar- dener," I shall proceed to point out the most proper means of cultivating this truly valuable vegetable in his garden. The preceding remarks show the kind of land that may be made capable of producing not only Turnips, but other things of equal value. It must however be granted, that some soils naturally suit particular kinds of vegetables better than others, and that in general, exotic plants will succeed best in such soils as are nearest like their own native soil. As we have not always a choice, I would inform the Young Gardener, if he has a very light soil which is not suitable for vegetables in general, he may sometimes get two crops of Turnips from it in one year, by sowing seed for the first crop early in March, and that for his second, in the middle of August. For general crops it will be better to have ground manured with short rotten dung, or compost, containing a considerable proportion of coal, wood, peat, or soaper's ashes. Ground that has been well manured for preceding crops, and also ground fresh broken up, will suit well for Turnips. Previous to sowing Turnip seed, the gardener should procure a suitable quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco dust, so as to be prepared for the attacks of insects. It should be recollected that Turnip seed will some- times sprout within forty -eight hours after it is sown, and that very frequently whole crops are devoured before a plant is seen above ground. A peck of either of these ingredients, mixed with about an equal quan- tity of ashes, or even dry road dust, sown every morn- ing or evening for the first week after sowing the seed, would secure an acre of ground, provided it be so contrived that the wind carry it over the whole piece of land, and as it often changes, this may be effected. 84 TURNIP. by crossing the land in a different direction every time, according as the wind may serve. As some very erroneous ideas have been extensively circulated in respectable periodicals, respecting the cultivation of this valuable root, I Avould earnestly recommend that particular attention be paid to the time of sowing the seed, for if the first crop be not sown soon enough to be gathered early in July, they are seldom fit for the table, being hot, stringy, and wormy ; and if the crop intended for Autumn and Winter use, be sown long before August, unless it be a very favourable season, if even they escape the attacks of insects and reptiles, they often get so defective, that they seldom keep the Winter. To have Turnips in perfection, they should be hoed in about a month after they are sown, or by the time the plants spread a circle of about four inches, and again, in about a month from the first hoeing, leaving them from six to nine inches apart; they will yield the cultivator more profit this way, than when left to nature, as is too frequently done. The most esteemed kinds of Turnips for gardens, are marked in the catalogue, I shall therefore leave my readers to their own choice. As the Yellow Swedish or Russian Turnip, or Ruta Baga, is in great repute, I shall quote a few lines from the American Gardener, by William Cobbett, the great advocate for Ruta Baga. *^The Swedish Turnip, so generally preferred for table use here, and so seldom used for the table in England, ought to be sown early in June, in rows at a foot apart, and thinned to three inches in the rows. About the middle of July they should be transplanted upon ridges three feet apart, (in a garden) and during their growth, ought to be kept clear of weeds, and to be dug between twice at least, as deep as a good spade can be made to go. But the Swedish Turnip is of BOP. 85 further use as producing most excellent greens in the Spring, and at a very early season. To draw this benefit from them, the best way is to leave a row or two in the ground, and when the winter is about to set in, cover them all over with straw or cedar boughs. Take these off when the winter breaks up, and you will have very early and most excellent greens ; and when you have done with the greens, the Turnips are very good to eat." If the seed of the Russia Turnip be sown in drills in the month of July, or even early in August, they will make fine roots by Autumn without trans- planting, provided the ground be good and well worked. When the plants are up strong, they must be hoed and thinned to the distance of twelve or fifteen inches from each other, another hoeing will be ne- cessary in five or six weeks afterwards. This will make them grow freely. HOP. HouBLON. Humulus lupulus. Although the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, as it is more or less used in every part of our country, it may not be amiss to treat of its culture. It is pre- sumed, that in proportion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our citizens will have recourse to beer as a wholesome beverage ; and as a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops are cured, I purpose giving directions for their management throughout, so as to enable those who choose, to prepare their own. My information is collected chiefly from Loudon's Ency- clopaedia of Plants. The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknowi>, 86 HOP. length of time for its flowers, which are used for pre- serving beer. Its culture was introduced from Flan- ders in the reign of Henry the Eighth ; though in- digenous both in Scotland and Ireland, it is little cultivated in those countries, owing to the humidity of their Autumnal season. Like other plants of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on different individuals ; the female plants, therefore, are alone cultivated. There are several varieties grown in Kent and Surrey, under the name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings, &c. ; the first is the most hardy, diff"ering little from the wild or Hedge Hop ; the Goldings is a very im- proved highly productive variety, but more subject to the blight than the other. The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom ; a sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as to prevent a free circulation of air. The soil requires to be well pul- verised and manured previous to planting. In Hop districts, the ground is generally trenched either with a plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally in rows six feet apart, and the same distance in the row. Five, six, or seven plants, are generally placed together in a circular form, and at a distance of five or six feet from each other. The plants or cuttings are procured from the most healthy of the old stools ; each should have two joints or buds ; from the one which is placed in the ground springs the root, and from the other the stalk. Some plant the cuttings at once where they are to remain, and by others they are nursed a year in a garden. An interval crop of Beans or Cabbages is generally taken the first year. Some- times no poles are placed at the plants till the second year, and then only short ones of six or seven feet. The third year the Hop generally comes into full bearing, and then from four to six poles from fourteen HOP. 87 to sixteen feet in length are placed to each hill. The most durable timber for poles is that of the Spanish Chesnutj which is much grown in Kent as coppice wood for that purpose. The after culture of the Hop consists in stirring the soil and keeping it free from weeds ; in guiding the shoots to the poles, and some- times tying them for that purpose with bass or withered rushes ; in eradicating any superfluous shoots which may arise from the root, and in raising a small heap of earth over the root to nourish the plant. Hops are known to be ready for gathering when the chaffy- capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consis- tence. Each chaff'y capsule, or leafed calyx, contains one seed. Before these are picked, the poles with the attached stalks are pulled up, and placed horizontally on frames of wood, two or three poles at a time. The Hops are then picked off" by women and children. After being carefully separated from the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large cloth hung all round within the frame on tenter hooks. When the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to be dried. This is always done as soon as possible after they are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain long in the green state in which they are picked. In very warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state, they will often heat in five or six hours ; for this reason the kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from the commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking season. The operation of drying Hops is not materially different from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same construction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight to twelve inches deep, according as the B8 HOP* season is dry or wet, and the Hops ripe or immature^ When the ends of the Hop stalks become quite shri- velled and dry, they are taken off the kiln and laid on a boarded floor till they become quite cool, when they are put into bags. The bagging of Hops is thus performed ; in the floor of the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop bag. After tying a handful of Hops in each of the lower corners of a large bag, which serve after for handles, the mouth of the bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest on the hedges of the hole or trap ; and the bag itself being then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed from the hoop, and the end sewed up, other two han- dles having been previously formed in the corners in the manner mentioned above. The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put into pockets or fine bag- ging, and the brown into coarse or heavy bagging. The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale, and the latter by the porter brewers. But when Hops are intended to be kept two or three years, they are put into bags of strong cloth, and firmly pressed so as to exclude the air. The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the operation of picking. The shoots or bind being stripped ofi*, such poles as are not decayed are set up together in a conical pile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is formed by three stout poles bound liOP. 89 together a few feet from their tops, and their lower ends spread out. The produce of no crop is so liable to variation as that of the Hop ; in a good season an acre will pro- duce 20 cwt. but from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered i tolerable average crop. The quality of Hops is esti^ mated by the abundance or scarcity of an unctuous clammy powder which adheres to them, and by their bright yellow colour. The expenses of forming a Hop plantation are considerable ; but once in bearing, it will continue so for ten or fifteen years before it re- quires to be renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to diseases ; when young it is devoured by fleas of differ- ent kinds ; at a more advanced stage it is attacked by the green fly, red spider, and otterraoth, the larvae of which prey even upon its roots. The honey dew often materially injures the Hop crop ; and the mould, the fire-blast, and other blights injure it at different times towards the latter period of the growth of the plant. The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops are considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently gathered early in the Spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus. The stalk and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk a strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing which is described by Linneeus in his Flora Suecica. A decoction of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as Sarsapariila ; and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A pillow filled with Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended with the bad effeets of soporifics which require to be taken internally. 90 HORSE-RADISH AND MUSHROOM. HORSE-RADISH. Raifort. Cochlearia Armoracia. This plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, either cut from the top an inch or two long, or some old roots cut into pieces of that length, or by offsets that arise from the sides of the main root, retaining the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as possible. These should be planted as early in the spring as practicable, in rows two feet apart, and six or eight inches from each other in the rows. The ground should be well manured and dug two spades deep, and the cuttings shotild be sunk full ten inches with the crowns upright ; this being done, level the surface of the ground, and afterwards keep it free from weeds until the plants are full grown. With this manage- ment the roots will be long and straight, and the second year after the planting will be fit for use. They may be taken up the first year, but then the roots will be slender, therefore it is the better way to let them remain till the second. If in taking up the roots some offsets be left in the ground, they will produce a suc^ cessive supply for many years. MUSHROOM. Champignon comestible. Agaricus campestris. The Agaricus is said to be the most extensive genus in the vegetable kingdom. The species are deter- mined upon various principles. As some of the kinds are poisonous, it is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. Loudon says, it is most readily distin- guished, when of a middle size, by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell. In a more MUSHROOM. 91 advanced stage, the gills become of a chocolate colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other kinds of a dubious quality ; but that species ■which most nearly resembles it, is slimy to the touch, and destitute of the fine odour, having rather a disagreeable smell. Again : the noxious kind grows in woods, or on the skirts of w^oods, while the true Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be gathered only in such places. Unwholesome fungi will sometimes spring up on artificial beds in gardens; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine mushrooms. The baneful quality of the toad-stool, Agaricus virosus, is, in general, indicated by a sickly nauseous smell, though some hurtful sorts are so far without any thing disagreeable in the smell, as to make any criterion, drawn from that alone, very unsafe. The wholesome kinds, however, invariably emit a grateful rich scent. The Agaricus campestris is most generally cultivated: Dr. Withering mentions other eatable varieties, which run considerably larger, but which are inferior in flavour ; he says, " that a plant of the variety Geor- gia, was gathered in an old hot-bed at Birmingham, which weighed fourteen pounds, and Mr. Stackhouse found one fifty-four inches in circumference, having a stem as thick as a man's wrist.'* Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the year, by a proper regu- lation of the time and manner of forming the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without making a bed on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn into the top mould in old hot-beds. The methods of procuring and propagating spawn, and of forming Mushroom beds are numerous. Indi- genous spawn may be collected in pasture lands in September and October, or it may be found in its 92 MUSHROOM. strength and purity in the paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse-walks under shelter ; it is frequently to be found in old hot-beds and dunghills, in the summer season, and mushrooms of good quality may often be seen beginning to form themselves on tlie surface, like large peas ; when these are observed, it is time to take out the spawn, which is generally in hard dry lumps of dung, the spawn having the ap- pearance of whitish coarse pieces of thread. The true sort has exactly the smell of a Mushroom. If spawn thus collected be required for immediate iise, it may be planted in the beds at once, or it will keep three or four years, if laid to dry with the earth adhering to it, and afterwards placed in a warm dry shed, where there is a current of air; but if it be not completely dried, the spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not bear the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture. Such of my readers as may have hitherto been un- acquainted with the cultivation of the Mushroom, must perceive, from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is simply a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to be capable of producing and preserving spawn ; but in order to have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as to be always at command. .To this end, a quantity of fresh horse droppings mixed with short litter, should be collected ; add to tliis one- third of cow dung, and a small portion of earth, to cement it together ; mash the whole into a thin compost, like grafting clay ; then form it in the shape of bricks, which being done, set them on edge, and frequently turn them until half dry ; then with a dibble make one or two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of spawn the size of an egg ; thp bricks should then be laid where they can dry gra- dually. When dry, lay dry horse-dung on a level floQjTj, MUSHROOM. 93 six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile the bricks the spawn side uppermost. When the pile is snugly formed, cover it with a small portion of warm fresh horse-dung, sufficient in quantity to diffuse a gentle glow throughout the whole. When the spawn has spread itself through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and they may be laid up into any dry place for use. Mushroom spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve its vegetable powers for many years, if well dried before it is laid up : if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself. Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the open air, covored with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of the same sort under cover, as in the open sheds of hot-houses. They are also made in close sheds behind hothouses, or in houses built on purpose, called Mushroom-houses. A moderately warm light cellar is peculiarly suited for the purpose in the winter season, as no fire is necessary, and but little water, the application, of which frequently proves injurious, when not judiciously managed. Mushrooms may be also raised" in pots, boxes, hampers, &c., placed in warm situations; in old hot-beds, in pits with. glass frames, and in dark frames or pits. The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare a body of stable dung, moderately fermented, to the thickness of about a yard, more or less, accord- ing to the size and situation in which the bed is to be formed ; when the strong heat has subsided, an inch of good mould may be laid over, and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six inches apart ; after this is done, another layer of mould, an inch thick, may be applied, and then a coat of straw. Beds well constructed, will produce Mushrooms in five or six 9* ^ MUSHROOM', weeks, and will continue to produce for several montli% if care be taken, in gathering, not to destroy the young ones. As Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw should be spread carefully over the bed. Beds made in a convenient place where there is space all around, may be formed so as to make four slopmg surfaces, similar to the roof of a house ; this by being spawned on the four sides will yield abun- dantly. The celebrated Mr. Nicol makes his beds without spawn. The following are his directions, taken from Loudon's Encyclopoedia of Gardening. "After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel, or brick bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry, and free from under damp, lay a course of horse-drop- pings six inches thick. These should be new from the stables, and must not be broken, and the drier the better. They may be collected every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the above thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment or heat. In the whole process of making up, the bed should be as much exposed to the air as possible ; and it should be carefully defended from wet, if out of doors. When this course is quite dry, and judged to be past a state of fermentation, cover it the thickness of two inches with light dry earth ; if sandy so much the better. It is immaterial whether it be rich or not : the only use of earth here being for spawn to run and mass in. Now lay another course of droppings, and earth them over as above, when past a state of fermentation : then a third course, which in like manner earth over. This- finishes the bed, which will be a very strong and productive one if properly managed afterwards. Ob- serve, that in forming the bed, it should be a little rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet. or moist than the sides,. This may be done in forming; MUSHROOM. 9^ the sole or floor at firsts a^d the bed would then be of equal strength in all parts. If it be made up against a wall in a cellar, stable, or shed, it may have a slope of a few inches from the back to the front, less or more, according to its breadth. I have sometimes been con- tented with two courses as above, instead of three ; and often when materials were scarce, have made them up slighter, thus : three four-inch courses of droppings, with one inch of earth between each, and a two -inch covering at top. Such a bed as this I have had produce for ten or twelve months together ; but very much depends on the state of the materials, and on the care taken in making it up, also on the after management. The droppings of hard-fed horses only are useful. Those of horses kept on green food will, of themselves, produce few or no mushrooms. I have made up beds from farm horses, fed partly on hard and partly on green food, and from carriage or saddle horses, fed entirely on corn and hay ; treated them in the same way in every respect; and have found, not once, but always, those made from the latter most productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be procured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in the country, any time of the year ; and if the supply be plentiful, a bed of considerable dimensions may be made and finished within five or six weeks. In as many more weeks, if in a stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will begin to produce, and often sooner ; but if the situation of the bed be cold, it will sometimes be two or three months in producing Mushrooms." It may be necessary ta state further, that extremes of heat, cold, drought and moisture, should be avoided in the cultivation of Muslirooms. If the temperature keeps up to 50* in the winter, beds will be safe, and the heat in the beds may rise to 60 or even 70 without injury. Air also must be admitted in proportion to 9^ MUSHROOM. the heat, and 60^ should be aimed at as a medium temperature. Water when given a little at a time, is better than too much at once after the spawn has begun to spread ; and the water for this purpose should always be made blood warm. A light covering of straw may be always used to preserve moisture on the surface ; and if the beds be made in open frames, or otherwise subject to exposure, the straw may be laid thicker than on beds made in a cellar. Should beds fail in producing Mushrooms, after having been kept over hot or wet, it may be inferred that the spawn is injured or destroyed; but if on the contrary a bed that has been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished with warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid over the whole ; if this does not enliven the bed after having lain a month, take off the earth, and if on ex- amination there is no appearance of spaAvn, the whole may be destroyed, but if on the contrary the bed should contain spawn, it may be renovated by covering it again, especially if any small tubercles be discernible, but if the heat should have declined, the spawn may be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If beds be formed in hot-bed frames, under glass, some mats or straw must be laid over the glass to break off the intense beat of the sun. Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been introduced into the garden, there are several eatable kinds. In Poland and Russia there are above thirty sorts in common use among the peasantry. They are gathered at different stages of their growth, and used in various ways ; raw, boiled, stewed, roasted, and being hung and dried in their stoves and chimneys, form a part of their winter stock of provisions. Great caution is necessary in selecting any species of this AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HEEBS. 97 tribe for food, and none but the Botanist should search for any but the sort we have described. Physicians say, that all the edible species should be thoroughly masticated before taken into the stomach, as this greatly lessens the eflfects of poisons. When accidents of the sort happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, and then the vegetable acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon juice, or that of apples ; after which, give ether and antispasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive bilious vomiting. Infusions of galnut, oak bark, and Peruvian bark are recommended as capable of neutralizing the poisonous principle of Mushrooms. It is, however, the safest way not to eat any but the well known kinds, until they have been soaked in vinegar. Spirits of wine and vinegar are calculated to extract some part of their poison. AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. GrAINES d'HeRBES AROMATiaUES, ODORIFERANTES ET A L'USAGE DE LA CUISINE. Anise, Pimpinella anisum. Basil Sweet, Ocymum basilicum. Bush Easil, do minimum. Borage, Borago officinalis. Caraway, Carum carni. Clary, Salvia sclara. Coriander, Coriandrum sativum. Dill, Jinelhum groveolens. *Fennel, Common,. do. foemculum. * do. Sweet, do. dulce. Marigold, Pot, Calendula officinalis. "'^Marjoram Sweet,. Origanum marjorana^ *Mint, Spear, Mentha virides. * do. Pepper^ do. piperita. * do. Fennyroyal'„ ' fCo. puiegium. 9S AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERB&. *Sage, Common, Salvia officinalis. Savory, Summer, Satureja hortensis. * do. Winter, do'. monlaria. Smallage, Upturn graveolem. •*=Tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus.. -•*=Thyme, Common, Thymus vulgaris. * do. Lemon, do. serpyllum. Aromatic Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy odour and savoury taste ; many of them are used as small pot herbs, and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As only- a small quantity of these are necessary in private gardens, a bye corner may be allotted for them, and such medical herbs as may be wanted in a family. It may be necessary for me to explain, as we go along, that there are three principal descriptive names given to plants, namely, Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials. The annuals being but of one season's duration, are raised every year from seed. The bien- nial kinds are raised from seed one year, continue till the second, and soon after die ; some of these should be also raised every year from seed. The perennials may be also raised from seed, but when once raised, they will continue on the same roots many years. Those marked * are of the latter description, and may be propagated by suckers, offsets, cuttings or partings of the roots. Those who have not already a planta- tion of these herbs, may sow seeds of any of the diflferent kinds in March or April, in drills about an inch deep and twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. The plants may be afterwards transplanted into sepa- rate beds ; or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two feet apart, the seed may be sown in them, and the plants afterwards thinned out to proper distances, according to the natural growth of the different kinds, of plants. Medicinal hebbs. 99 PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL PURPOSES, &c. Graines de Plantes Medicinal. Bonoset, or Thoroughwort, *Balm, Bean, Castor Oil, Burdock, Catnep, Celandine, *ChamomiIe, *Comfrey, ^Elecampane, Feverfew, *Horehound, *Horseaiint, * Hyssop, * Lavender, liovage or Smellage, *Mallow, Marsh, *Pinkroot, Carolina, Poppy Opium, (annual,) *Roseinary, *Ruo, Garden, *Scullcap, or Mad Dog Plant, *Snake Root, Virginian, ^Southernwood, *Speedwell, Virginian, ^Spikenard, *Tansey, ♦Wormwood, Evpatorium pcrfoliaturn. Melissa officinalis. Ricinus communis. Arctium lappa. Nepeta cataria. Chelidonum majus. Aiithemis nobilis. Symphytvm officinale. Inula Helenium. Matricaria Parthenium, Marubium vulgare. Monarda punctata. Hysopus officinalis. Lavandula spica. Lisusticum levisticum. Althca officinalis. .Spigelia Marilandica. Papaver snmniferum. Rosmarinus officinalis. Rut a graveohns. Scutellaria Lateriflora, Aristolochia serpcntaria. Artemisia abrotanum. Veronica Virginica. Aralia racemosa. Tanacetum vulgare. Artemisia absinthium. The generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, may be raised from seed sown in March and April. The greater part of the above described plants are perennial, and will multiply from seeds they drop, or from partings of the roots. The offsets, roots, or young plants thus raised, should be planted at suitable distances from each other early in the spring. The beds should be afterwards kept free from weeds, and as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a 100 AROMATIC, SWEET, AND MEDICINAL HERfiS. dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for -wintet use. [The best way to preserve them after they are dried, is to rub them so as to pass them through a sieve, then pack them in bottles or boxes, each kind by itself; they should be afterwards kept in a dry place.] In the month of October, the beds should be examined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender herbs should be taken up, potted and placed in a frame or greenhouse for the winter. Thyme, Hyssop, Winter Savory, Southernwood, Sage, Rue, and the like, will require their tops to be neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Burnet, Tarragon, Tansey, Penny- royal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint, Lovage, and other kinds of hardy perennial herbs should be cut down close to the ground. After this, it will be proper to dig lightly and loosen the ground between the roots of the shrubby plants ; but the beds of close-growing running plants, such as Mint, Run- ning Thyme, and all other creeping herbs, will not well admit of digging ; therefore, after the stalks are cut down, and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the alleys and strew some of the loose earth evenly over the beds ; and if the ground be rather poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten dung will be of considerable service. This dressing will give proper nurture and protec- tion to the roots of the plants, a neat appearance to the whole, and in spring the shoots will rise with renewed vigour. Having finished the catalogue, I proceed to give directions for making the most of a piece of ground well manured for early crops. In the general direc- tions at the commencement, I observed that good rich manure was indispensably necessary to the production PLAN OF BEDS, &C. 101 of some particular kinds of vegetables ; it may be further observed, that rich ground will produce two or three valuable crops, but it requires some attention to make use of it to the best advantage. If the gar- dener has leisure to dig his ground in March or April, that he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Egg Plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Radishes, Spinach, lettuce, or other Salads on it, by leaving a space for his hills or drills ; or radish seed may be sown lightly over beds of Beets, Carrots or Parsnips, but they must not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injure the other plants. When the first crops are gathered, it requires a little consideration before a second is planted, in order that a sufficient quantity of the best of the ground be reserved for the most particular and valuable kinds of vegetables. That I may be understood, I have adopted the following plans, representing beds of earth ; this will answer the same purpose as bringing my readers on the ground : No, 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart March 25.— Sow Parsley, or other small herbs. feow Kadish Seed. Sow Parsley, or other small heri-s. The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the intermediate ground for the other plants. 10 102 PLAN OF BEDS, &C. No. 2. Drills ten inches apart: April 1 — Sow Spinach, or Radish Seed. 24— Plant Early Cabbacre Plants. 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish Seeds. By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the ground, the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered. If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle of July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnips, or Black Radishes. If tiic Cabbage be late heading kinds, the ground may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach, Fetticus, Lettuce, &c. in which case it will require a fresh coat of manure. i\o. 3 Rows or drills tiiirlien iiii-lie:> a)>;n-l : March 20.— Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants. Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants. Hoe them the first week in April — previous to hoeing the second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and plant beet or carrot seed; this may be covered up in hoeing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strong, the Lettuce will be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended to, they may be cleared PLAN OP BEDS, &C. 103 off soon enough to produce fall Cabbage, Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c. '"jNo. 4. Rows or drills sixteen iiiclits apart. ~~" March 25— Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants. i-fo. Hardy Lettuce Plants. April 20. — Plant early York Cabbage Plants, either between the rows or lip'ween the Lettuce. As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage, and it will soon cover the ground. This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the kinds above-mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of which are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted with Cabbage twice in succession. The above, or preceding plans, present a fair speci- men of what may be done on a small piece of good ground. If the young gardener will take the trouble to keep an account of his transactions, he would soon make discoveries of still greater importance. If he be not sufficiently acquainted with the different kinds of Cabbage Plants, for instance, so as to distinguish the one from the other, he, by making a memorandum at the time of sowing the seed, would soon get ac- quainted Avith the different kinds of plants ; he would also discover the difference in the growing of his seeds, and know who to blame if any particular kind should not come up. 104 HOT-BEDS. The following represents a Hot-Bed with four sashes, sown March 1st. ( Thorburn's. Smith's Early Bridgeman's Tomato and Early York. Battersea Cab- Early Egg-Plant Seeds, in Cabl)age Seed. bage Seed. Lettuce Seed. shallow drills. It may be necessary to remind my readers of the necessity of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Egg-Plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seeds in hot-beds the last week in February or early in March ; for this purpose, let some fresh stable dung and rich compost be engaged beforehand. Some gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it is always safest to make them in pits from eighteen inches to two feet deep ; in order to do this, the pits should be dug in the fall, or a heap of dung may be deposited on the ground intended for the beds before the frost sets in ; by this means the ground will be preserved from frost, and good earth may be obtained from the pits without any difficulty. The fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pits to the depth of twenty to twenty-four inches ; it the dung be in a good heating condition, cover it with six or eight inches deep of mould ; then lay on the sashes, and protect the beds from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days the rank steam may pass oft*; it will then be necessary to stir the mould FORCING VEGETABLES. 105 before the seeds be sown, to prevent the growth of young weeds that may be germinating ; then sow the seeds as equally as possible, reserving a small quan- tity of the warm mould to be sown or sifted over the seeds. The beds should be afterwards attended to as directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower. This description of hot-bed is intended expressly for the raising of spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such other plants as may be required for early planting. Beds made earlier in the season, or for fjrcing, will require a greater substance of manure. See calendar for January February and March. OBSERVATIONS ON FORCING VEGETABLES. Before I commenced preparing this work for the press, I intended to have written largely on the subject of forcing fruits, as well as vegetables; but when I considered my motto, and that I was writing for young gardeners, I concluded to occupy my pages in such a manner as to effect the greatest possible good, at the smallest expense. Of the several branches of Horticulture, some are of greater importance than others; and as the products of the kitchen garden form important articles of food for the bulk of mankind, it should be our first care to treat largely on the sub- ject of this most useful part of gardening. Next to this is the cultivation of fruits, and the production of ornamental plants and flowers, each of whicli will be noticed as we proceed. As T stand pledged to offer fsome remarks on forcing, or rather forwarding vege- tables by artificial means, I shall endeavour to confine my observations to such points as are of primary im- portance ; and in order to convince my readers of the 10* 106 FOKCINC VEGETABLES. importance of my subject, I shall first endeavour to show the utility of an aitificial climate suited to the various kinds of useful plants. In England, a regular succession of vegetables can be obtained from the natural ground in every month of the year, and their fruits, from the summer heat being moderate, are of longer continuance than with us, and yet they make gardening a science, and employ the elements, as w^ell as the ingenuity of man, to the production of fruits and vegetables out ofthe ordinary season. I shall not attempt to treat ofthe cultivation of Pine- Apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grown in forcing houses ; nor w^ould it be advisable with us to undertake to raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c. in frames throughout our severe winters; but it must be ac- knowledged, that the extreme heat of our summers are as detrimental to the cultivation of some of the most valuable kinds of fruits and vegetables, as the coldness of our winters, and for those reasons, artificial aid is more necessary here in the winter and s[)ring of the year .than in England. The inhabitants of that country may obtain a supply ofthe different varieties of Artichokes. Broad Beans, Borecole, Broccoli, Cauli- flower, Kale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Turnips, and Salads in general a great part of the year, and Cabbages, Coleworts, &c. the whole ofthe year, from their kitchen gardens, whereas, if we Avere to attempt to supply our markets with culinary vege- tables at all times, in any thing like the abundance that they have them there, we must turn our attention to the protecting and forwarding, as well as the forcing system. Before 1 proceed to show the method of forcing vegetables, it may be necessary for me to remind my readers, that in providing an artificial climate, thej FORCING VEGETABLES. 107 should consider the nature of the plants they intend to cultivate, and endeavour to supply them with that which is best calculated to nourish and support them. I have, in another part of this work, endeavoured to show, that heat, light, air, and moisture, are each essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup- plied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances. In the midst of our winters, which is the usual time for forcing in England, we are subject to north-west winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we have not yet discovered how to make an artificial air, it will not be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom heat under any kind of vegetable, until such times as he can impart a tolerable share of salubrious air, as the heat without air will soon destroy the fruits of his labour. Perhaps the safest time to commence forcing in frames, is soon after the middle of February, and the early part of March. I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials must be regulated by the season of the year at which the work is commenced, and also to the purposes for which the hot beds are intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising half- hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in the spring, may be made in the manner recommended for the common hot-bed ; but if substantial heat is required to be kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to admit of linings as the heat decreases; and the dung should undergo a regular process of preparation, according to the use it is intended for. Compost heaps should also be provided, in order to furnish suitable mould to the different kinds of plants ; for this pur- pose, all the old hot-bed dung and mould, leaves, tan, turf, sand, and other liglit manures and decayed animal dung, should be collected together. In some cases when a slight hot-bed is recommended 108 FORCING VEGETABLES. for forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a seedling cucumber bed be at liberty, it may answer every purpose for Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy plants ; or such a bed may be spawned for Mushrooms, if required. If the forcing be commenced before the coldest of the winter is past, great precaution must be used lest the plants should be injured by cold cutting winds, or destroyed by heat for want of air. To prevent the former accident, warm dung should be placed around the frames, and the sashes should be covered with mats and boards every night. If full air cannot be admitted in the day time, the sashes must be slidden down to let off the steam, at the same time the mats may be laid over the aperture, to prevent cold air entering to the plants. If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is sometimes the case, means must be used to decrease it. Tliis is generally effected by making holes in the bed with a stake sharpened at the end, or with a crow-bar; which holes should be filled up when the heat is sufficiently reduced. In lining hot-beds, if the heat is reduced in the body of the beds, holes may be carefully made to admit heat from the fresh linings, so as to enliven the heat of the bed. A Fahrenheit Thermometer should be always at hand, at the time of forcing, to be used when necessary, to regulate the heat in the beds ; and the water that is used in cultivating plants in frames, should be warmed to the temperature of the air, or according to the heat required for the various kinds of plants, which will be shown in the different articles, as we proceed. FORCING ASPARAGUS. 109 FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-REDS. This plant is a native of cold climates, and is found growing wild in Russia and Poland, where it is eaten by the cattle as grass. It will endure the severity of our winters, and produce its buds, by then the Aveather gets mild; but as garden products are generally scarce after a hard winter, the gardener who studies his interest Avill make the most of the spring season, and raise all he can before the markets become glutted ; to this end he is recommended to prepare for forcing this vegetable as soon as the coldest of the winter is past. As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by extreme bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, and with less trouble in flued pits, in a hot-house than in dung hot-beds, because the heat from tan is more regular ; but a very suitable bed may be formed in a 4eep hot-bed frame, made in the usual way. If dung alone, or a mixture of dung and leaves be used, it should be in a state past heating violently before it is made into a bed; but if the gardener has no choice of materials, he may make his hot -bed in the usual way, and if the depth of heating materials be two feet, he may lay on a foot of old hot-bed dung, tan or any light compost, that will admit of the heat passing through it. It may be necessary to state further, that though too much bottom heat should be avoided ; heat is necessary to the production of the vegetable in a moderate time, which is generally effected in a month or six weeks after the commencement of the operations. For the purpose of keeping up a regular heat, a lining of hot dung should be applied around the frame, and changed as occasion requires. Provide plants from two to four, or even six years old, trim their roots, and place them in rows on the beds ; when one row is 110 FORCING ASPARAGUS. laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then pro- ceed in the same Avay with one row after another, keeping them on a level, as the surface of the bed at first, lay till you have finished planting them ; then lay among the buds and roots some fine vegetable,'or other rich mould, working it in amongst them with your fingers, and cover the beds over about one inch thick, and above that lay three inches in depth of vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan or any other light compost that will admit the water to run quickly through. If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide down tlie sashes till it begins to decline. The tem- perature at night should never be under 50, and it may rise to 65 without injury; when buds begin to appear, as much air must be daily admitted as the weather will permit. In two or three days after the beds are planted, the heat will begin to rise ; the beds should then have a moderate supply of water applied from a watering pot, with the rose on ; repeat such waterings every three or four days. By the time the buds have come up three inches above the surface, tliey are fit to gather for use, as they will then be six or seven inches in length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, twist them off from the crown ; this is a better method than to cut them ; at least it is less dangerous to the rising buds> which come up thick in succession. — An ordinary sized frame calculated for three sashes will hold from three hundred to five hundred plants according to the age and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a dish every day for about three weeks. On the above esti- mate if a constant succession of Asparagus be required, it will be necessary to plant a bed every eighteen or twenty days. Rhubarb and Sea Kale may be, and sometimes are FORWARDING AND FORCING BEANS. Ill forced in the same manner as Asparagus ; but the most general mode is to excite them av here they stand in the open garden, by the application of warm dung. FORWARDING BROAD BEANS, OR ENGLISH DWARFS. In the article, Broad Bean, vicia faba, page 20, I have urged the necessity of early planting, in order that a full crop may be insured before the approach of warm weather; but as the ground is often frozen at the time that they ought to be planted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes, and placed in a moderate hot-bed in February, or early in March. If the plants thus raised be not nursed too tender, they may be transplanted into the open ground the latter end of March ; this will enable them to produce their fruit early in June. Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece of ground late in the Autumn, it will keep the earth from freezing, and if this manure be removed in February, and a frame placed over and protected from extreme cold, the seedlings may bo raised therein, and transplanted as before directed. FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. The most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may be raised in hot-beds ; but they require a substantial heat to mature them. The temperature within the frame should be kept up to 60, and may rise to 70 or 75S provided the steam is let off. In order to insure suffi- cient heat to bring them into a bearing state, the plaats may be first raised in small pots plungeil into a 112 FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. hot-bed, or a small bed may be prepared, earthed over with light rich compost, six inches deep ; and the beans planted therein, and covered one inch. The second hot -bed should be earthed over to the depth of eight or nine inches ; and the beans transplanted as soon as they are two or three inches high, in cross rows twelve or fifteen inches apart, by three or four inches in the rows, or in clumps a foot apart. When the season is so far advanced that one bed, with the help of linings, will bring the plants well into fruit, the seed may be planted at once to remain for podding; or if the gardener should choose to mature his crop in the open ground, he may raise his plants in boxes or pots in the month of April, and plant them out in a warm border early in May. Eeans raised in hot beds, will require considerable attention ; — cover the glasses every night Avith mats and boards; admit fresh air every mild day, give occasional gentle waterings, and earth th^m up carefully as they progress in growth, to strengthem them. FORWARDING BROCCOLI & CAULIFLOWER. In treating of the method of cultivating this family of plants, in the articles, pages 26 and 29, I recom- mended that an artificial climate be provided for them, so as to induce them to arrive at full perfection in the winter and early part of the spring. Such gardeners as may have provided frames for the purpose of mak- ing hot-beds in the spring, may make use of them through the winter, in protecting Broccoli and Cauli- flower ; and as the frames Avill not be wanted until the severity of the winter is past, such plants as may be left at that season, may be protected by a covering of boards, straw, or litter, as occasion may require. FORCING AND FORWARDING CUCtMBERS. 118 If Cauliflower be required early in the summer, the plants raised in the preceding Autumn should be transplanted from the beds into the open ground in the month of March, and be protected by hand glasses. This would insure their heading before the approach of extreme warm weather, which is very injurious to CauUflower. FORCING AND FORWARDING CUCUMBERS. To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should be an object of emulation with every gardener. The business of forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks before the fruit is desired, and a succes- sion of plants should be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the short prickly, others, the green clus- ter, and southgate ; and seed that is two or three years old, is generally preferred, as it is not so apt to run to vines. The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich mould, and placed in a hot bed ; and some sow the seeds in the earth of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In either case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their two seed leaves, they may be transplanted into pots ; put three plants in each pot ; when this is done, apply water warmed to the heat of the bed, and shut down the glasses, keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over the glass, till the plants have taken root. When they are about a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruiting bed. Well preparing the dung, is of the greatest impor- tance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is made into a bed, it cannot be done after, as it requires turning and managing to cause it to ferment freely and sweetly. Fresh dung from the stable should be laid into a heap, turned three times, and 11 114 FORCIN© AND FORWARDING CUCUMBERS. well mixed with a fork; if any appears dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it between the two ex- tremes of wet and dry, that the Avhole may have a regular fermentation. A dry situation should be chosen for the beds to be formed on, so that no water can settle under the dung. The substance of dung from the bottom of the bed should be from three to four feet, according to the season of planting, and the moulding should be done as soon as the bed is settled, and has a lively regular tempered heat. Lay the earth evenly over the dung, about six inches deep ; after it has lain a few days examine it, and if no traces of a burning effect are discovered, by the mould turning of a whitish colour, and caking, it will be fit to receive the plants ; but if the earth appears burnt, or of a rank smell, some fresh sweet mould should be provided for the hills, and placed in the frame to get warm, at the same time, vacancies should be made to give vent to the steam, by running down stakes. After the situation of the bed has been ascertained, and the heat regulated, the holes should be closed, and the earth formed into hills ; raise one hill in the centre under each sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of the glass ; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the middle of each hill. The plants should be imme- diately watered with water heated to the air of the bed, and kept shaded till they have taken root. The temperature should be kept up to 60, and may rise to 80^ without injury, providing the rank steam be allowed to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timely linings of well prepared dung must be applied all round the frame ; begin by lining the back part first ; cut away the old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank two feet broad, to the FORCING AND FORWARDING CUCUMBERS 115 height of a foot, against the back of the frames : as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings around the re- mainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be careful to let off the steam and give air to the plants at all opportunities. Give necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of a mild day, in early forcing; and in the afternoon in the advanced season of hot sunny weather. Some use water impregnated with sheep or pigeons' dung. As the roots begin to spread, and the vines to run, the hills should be enlarged, by gathering up the earth around them, and a supply of good mould should be furnished to gather up as required, for earth- ing around the plants. When the plants have made one or two joints, stop them, after which they generally put forth two shoots, each of which let run till they have made one or two clear joints, and then stop them ; and afterwards con- tinue throughout the season to stop them at every joint; this Avill strengthen the plants, and promote their perfecting the fruit early. The following artificial operation is recommended by Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the production of a full crop of cucumbers under glass. In plants more freely exposed to the open air, the impregnation is effected by nature. Those which some call false blossoms, are the male flowers, and are useful in this operation. "The Cucumber," Abercrombie observes, "bears male and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The latter only produce the fruit, which appears first in miniature, close under the base, even before the flower expands. There is never any in the males; but these are placed in the vicinity of the females, and are absolutely necessary, by the dispersion of their farina, to impregnate the female blossom ; the fruit of 116 FORWARDING CUCUMBERS. which will not otherwise swell to its full size, and the seeds will be abortive. The early plants under glass, not having the full current of natural air, nor the as- sistance of bees and other winged insects to convey the farina, the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to effect the impregnation. At the time of fructifi- cation, watch the plants daily ; and as soon as the- female flower and some male blossoms are fully ex- panded, proceed to set the fruit the same day, or next morning at farthest. Take off a male blossom, de- taching it with part of the footstalk. Hold this be- tween the finger and thumb ; pull away the flower leaf close to the stamens ami anther^> or central part which apply close to the stigma or bosom of the female flower, twirhng it a little about, to discharge thereon some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed thus to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, while of a lively full expansion; and generally per- form: it in the early part of the day, using a fresh male, if possible, for each impregnation, as the males are usually more abundant than the female blossoms. In consequence the young fruit will soon be observed to swell freely. Cucumbers attain the proper size for gathering in about fifteen, eighteen, or twenty days after the time of setting ; and often in succession for two or three months or more, in the same beds, by good culture." FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND GLASSES. If it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open gar- den at an early season, the plants may be raised in, pots gis before directed, and planted in a warm borde.rr FORWARDING LETTtTCE. 117 either in the earth, or in hot bed ridges. A hand glass should be provided for each hill, which should be kept close down every night, and in cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The plants may be hardened by degrees by taking off the glass in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets warm they may be left to nature. FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER. Head Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the Win- ter season, by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds made in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cabbage plants, &c. (see article Cabbage.) For such Head Lettuce as may be wanted for use before Christmas, the Hardy Green, Dutch, and'Egyptian Coss, are the most suitable kinds to sow, and plants may be raised in the open border by sowing seed two or three times between the middle of August and the first week in September. The plants from these sow- ings may be set out, about six inches apart, in cold beds, by the time they are about one or two inches high. In September and early in October some of the Early Silesia, Sugar Loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts, may be sown in a cold bed frame, which, with the aid of sashes, will produce plants m from a month to six weeks ; these being planted in gentle hot-beds, in November and December, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful supply can be obtained from the open borders. The same attention is necessary, as respects the protection of these beds, as for other half hardy plants. 11* 118 FORWARDING MELONS-. FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND GLASSES. Although our citizens have an opportunity of pro- curing the Melon without artificial aid, as their con- tinuance is short, it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the directions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass will apply to Melons, with very few exceptions ; care, however, must be taken that they be kept away from each other at the time of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole crops being entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus being raised too near each other. Those who may wish to forward Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or April, to raise plants in ; the bed may be formed and the plants managed in precisely the same manner as is directed for Cucumbers. If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand-glass applied to each hill. Melons may be obtained one month earlier than the usual time. Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets may gratify the public, by pursuing the for- warding, if not the forcing system. Ridges may be prepared in the following manner : — In April or May, a trench may be dug in a warm border about two feet deep and three wide, and of sufficient length for as many hand glasses as are intended to be employed, allowing three feet for every hill. Some good heating manure should be laid in the pits, managed the same as a common hot-bed ; to this must be added good rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches for the plants to grow in ; as soon as the mould is warm the seedlings may be planted, three plants in each hill, after which the hand-glasses should be set on and shaded. After the plants have taken root and began to grow, the glasses should be raised in fine days and propped up so as to admit fresh air, and as the warm rORCriNG PEAS. 119 weather progresses, they may be taken ofif in the mid- dle of fine days, so as to harden the plants gradually to the weather ; and by the latter end of May they may be left to nature. Melons or Cucumbers may be perpetuated from layers or cuttings of the early plants, if required. FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. The best sort of Peas to force, are the most dwarfish kinds, and the seed is better for being two or three years old, as they will bear earlier, and make less straw. The true early frame Pea, is generally pre- ferred, but Bishop's new early Pea is very dwarfish and prolific, and therefore suitable for forcing. Peas become more prolific and run less to vine by being transplanted, than when they are sown where they are to remain ; the plants may be raised in a gentle hot- bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots or boxes. Peas do not require excessive heat; the temperature must be progressive ; beginning at about 50^^ for the nursery bed, and from that to 60 or 65 for fruiting. When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they may be transplanted in rows from twelve to eigh- teen inches apart; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should be from twelve to eighteen inches in depth. As the Peas progress in growth, the earth should be stirred, and when six inches high, small sticks may be applied, so that the tendrils of the Peas may easily take hold ; and they should be moulded at the bottom to enable them to support themselves. When they appear in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly pro- motes- the forming and filling of the pods; they will require to be regularly watered^ and as the Spring- 120 FORCING POTATOES. advances they may be exposed to the weather, taking care to shelter them in the event of a sudden change. FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. Potatoes may be forced in a great variety of ways. Those who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will of course provide such of tho earliest kinds as are not inclined to produce large tops, the Broughton dwarf, early mule, and the oak, and the ash-leaved, are of this description. Potatoes may be forwarded in growth previous to their being planted in the beds by placing them in a warm damp cellar. Some forward them in pots or boxes, and afterwards mature them in a hot-bed ; others plant them in the bed at once, in which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to twenty inches deep, and the heating materials should be sufficient to keep up a moderate heat for two or three months. Perhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this climate is to provide pots for the purpose ; plant one set in each pot in January, set them in a warm cellar till a bed can be prepared in February, in this set in the pots. While the tuberous roots are formed and before they fill the pots, prepare the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in the mould with the balls of earth attached to them. The beds should be kept free from frost, and air should be given at every opportunity. The common round Potate may be forwarded, by laying them thick together in a slight hot-bed in March, and when they are planted in the borders, a quantity of comb-makers* shavings may be deposited in each hill, this will greatly promote their growth. FORCING RADISHES, RHUBARB, &C. 121 FORWARDING RADISHES, &C. Radishes may be obtained early in the spring by means of a moderate hot-bed. The earth in the frame should be a foot in depth, and air should be admitted every day after they are up, or they will incline more to tops than roots. If they come up too thick, they should be thinned to between one and two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion requires, and keep them well covered in cold nights. For raising early Radishes on ground not accommodated with frames, a hot- bed may be made and arched over with hoop bends or pliant rods, which should be co- vered Avith mats constantly at night, and during the day in very cold weather. In moderate days, turn up the mats at the warmest side ; and on a fine mild day, take them wholly off, and harden them gradully to the weather. Turnips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of Salads, or pot herbs may be raised in the same way by sowing the seed in drills, and keeping the ground clear of weeds. FORWARDING RHUBARB. Those who may desire to have this excellent sub- stitute for fruit at an early season, may procure it without much trouble. It is customary with some persons in the Southern parts of England to keep this plant growing in their Kitchens, so that they may have it for use at any time. They have strong neat boxes made for the purpose, about three feet deep and two wide, and in length according to the demand, from four to eight feet; these being kept clean, have the appearance of flour-bins, and they are sometimes so contrived as to have shelves over them in imitation of Si kitchen dresser. The plants being taken up out o$ 122 FORCING RHUBARB, &C. the garden towards winter, are placed as closeat the bottom of the box as they can be put, with their crowns level; and some sand being thrown over sufficient to fill up the interstices, and to cover the crowns about half an inch, finishes the operation. No further trouble is necessary, except to give a little water just to keep the roots moist, as they need no light at all, and if the roots be replanted in the garden when spring opens, they will, after having taken root, vegetate as strongly as before they were removed. Roots of Rhubarb being taken up in the autumn, and packed in sand deposited in a warm cellar, will pro- duce stalks earlier than if kept in the garden, and if placed in hot-beds they will yield abundantly, and that at a very early season. The following simple method of forcing vegetables on a small scale, is recommended by a correspondent of the London Magazine for June, 1828 ; " Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple though not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one foot eight inches deep ; a quantity of horse droppings, perfectly dry ; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must be trodden perfectly tight ; repeat these triple layers till the boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together, " Four such boxes at work, are sufficient for a moderate demand ; and of a dozen, four brought on at at a time, and placed upon the flue of a greenhouse stove, will produce a fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on the flue of a hot-house : the kitchen cupboard, or any other similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also FORCING RHUBARB, &C. 123 convenient for affording a plentiful stock of superior spawn. " The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus ; but for this purpose a sufficient stock of three year old plants must be at hand ; also eighteen boxes, four pf which are the necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling family. Half fill the boxes with de- cayed tanners' bark, leaf mould, or any other similar mould ; on this, pack in the roots as thickly as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place in a forcing-house will suit them ; on the flue under the stage, or in short, any place where they can enjoy the necessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus and Mushrooms, Sea Kale, Rhubarb, Buda Kale, Angelica, Small Salad, as also other pot herbs, may be raised in the same manner." Those who have not the conveniences recommended in a greenhouse, &c., may place the boxes in a hot- bed. The glasses being laid on and the beds covered at nights, will soon promote the growth of the plants, and produce vegetable luxuries at a season when garden products in general are comparatively scarce. It is unnecessary to show of how much value such processes may be in minor establishments, or in a young country. I wish it to be understood, that in order to the successful cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have treated of, great pains must be taken in every stage of their growth. If the advice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxuries of the gar- den. My directions are founded on the success at- tending the practice of some of the best gardeners in this country. I have had also sufficient experience to warrant me in this attempt to contribute my mite towards the *< attainment of this kind of useful knowledge." 124 HINTS 0I» COOKIiXG RARE VEGETABLES. HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. In order to make this little work generally interest- ing to the female sex, for whose use the next fifty or sixty pages are chiefly intended, the following hints on cooking such sorts of vegetables as are not in daily use are submitted ; from a consciousness that a true estimate cannot be formed of the luxuries of the vege- table kingdom, unless their peculiar qualities be preserved in cooking. Artichoke. — This vegetable is esteemed as a luxury by epicures. To have it in perfection, the heads should be thrown into cold water as soon as gathered, and after having been soaked and well washed, put into the boiler when the water is hot with a little salt, and kept boiling until tender, which gene- rally takes, for full grown Artichokes, from an hour and a half to two hours. When taken up, drain and trim them; then serve them up with melted butter, pepper, salt, and such other condiment as may best suit the palate. Asparagus. — This is considered a'wholesome vege- table, and should not be kept long after it is gathered ; after being well washed, it may be tied in bundles of about a dozen buds each. Let the water be boiled with a portion of salt, and after having been skimmed put in the Asparagus, and watch until the stalks become tender, which will be in from twenty to thirty minutes ; take them up before they lose their true colour and flavour, and serve up on toasted bread, with melted butter, &c. Beans. — The English Broad Beans should be ga- thered young and shelled while fresh ; and after having been washed, let them be boiled in plenty of water HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. 125 with a little salt and a bunch of green parsley ; they take from thirty to forty minutes boiling, according to age, and may be served up with melted butter, gravy, &c. ; but they are very good when cooked and eaten with fat pork, or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon. Beaks, Kidncy. — These should not be suffered to get old and tough before gathered ; be careful in trim- ming them to cut off the stalk end first, and then turn to the point and strip off the strings ; put them into the Avater while boiling, w^iich should be previously seasoned with salt ; when they are tender, which will be in from fifteen to twenty minutes, take them up, and drain tliem through a colander, in order to render them capable of absorbing a due share of gravy, melted butter, &c. Beans, Lima. — These should be shelled while fresh, and boiled in plenty of water until tender, which generally takes from fifteen to twenty minutes. Some cook thein in the winter after having been dried, in which case they should be soaked in soft water for a few hours, and then put into the water cold and boiled until tender with a little salt ; but salted meat being boiled with them answers the same pur-^ pose, and makes them sweeter and more wholesome^ They are served up with butter, &c. Broccoli A.vD Cauliflower. — These delicious vegetable luxuries should be gathered while the pulp is close and perfect. After having trimmed off some of their outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of water seasoned with salt, taking care to skim the pot before putting the vegetables therein, and also to ease the cover so as not to confine the steam. Take them up as soon as the fok will enter the stems easily, which will be in from ten to twenty minutes accorditfg to their sizeaud age, dr.uu the^u so as to make them !^u^ceptible 126 HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. of absorbing; a due proportion of gravy, melted butter^. &c. this renders them a palatable and dainty dish. Cabbage, Colewort, Kale, and greens in general, should be put into hot water seasoned with salt, and kept boiling bnskly until tender. If you wish to pre- serve their natural colour, put a small lump of pearlash into the Avater, which also makes the coarser kinds of Cabbage more tender in the absence of salted meat. Egg-Pi.akt. — Select the fruit when at maturity. Cut them into slices and parboil them in a stewpan ; when softened, pour off the water, and drain them ; they may be then fried in batter made with wheaten flour and an egg, or in fresh butter with bread crum- bled fine, which may be seasoned before it is put into the pan with pepper, salt, thyme, and such other herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use Marjoram, Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, Garlick, &c. Parsnip. — Parsnips require from tliirty to forty minutes boiling, according to their size and age. Some boil them in water seasoned with salt until tender ; but they are better when boiled with salted pork, and afterwards mashed and fried in butter. Peas. — To have Peas in perfection, they should be gathered while young, and shelled and boiled while fresh ; as they soon lose both their colour and sweet- ness. Let the water, after having been seasoned with salt, be skimmed, then put in the Peas with a small bunch of Spear Mint, and ease the cover so as to let off the steam; they require about fifteen minutes boiling, or five minutes, more or less, according to the age and care bestowed. — Taste and try in time, so as to have them done to a nicety. Rhubarb. — The stalks of this plant are used for pies and tarts. After being stripped of the skin, or outer covering, and divested of its small fibres, or HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. 127 stringiness, which it is liable to, in an advanced stage of growth, it should be cut transversely into very small pieces, and then parboiled with sugar, and such spices as may best suit the palate. It will keep this way the same as other preserves, and may be used, not only in pies and tarts, but it makes excellrnt pud- ding by flattening a suety crust with a rolling-pin, then sprearling on the fruit, rolling it up in an ovai shape, and boiling it in a cloth. The fruit this way will retain its virtues, and the pudding may be served up hot by cutting it in slices of from half an inch to an inch thick, and then spreading butter and sugar be- tween the layers. Some boil the stalks to a juice, which being strained through a colander will keep for years, if well spiced and seasoned with sugar. Salsify. — The mode of cooking this vegetable, as recommended by an American author, is " to cut the roots transversely into thin pieces, and then boil them in water, or milk and water ; when boiled soft, mash them, and thicken the whole with flower, to some degree of stiffness; then fry them in the fat of salt pork or butter ; they are a luxury." In England the tops are considered excellent food when boiled tender, and served up with poached eggs and melted butter. They are by some considered salutary for persons in- clined to consumptiveness. Those afllicted with any symptoms indicating an approach to such a state of health, cannot harm themselves by eating the tops, when they are to be got, which is in the month of April, and if the roots are eaten when attainable, they may perhaps answer a still better purpose, and even the liquor in Avhich they are boiled, may possess some of the most valuable properties of the plant. ScoRzoNERA. — This vegetable is very similar to 128 HINTS ON COOKING BARE VEGETABLES. the Salsify, only that the roots are of a darker colour, but they, no doubt, possess the same good qualities. Some boil and eat them like carrots, &c. inAvhichcase they should be deprived of their rind and immersed in cold water for half an hour, to take off the bitterness to which old roots are liable, as this plant, being pe- rennial, is often cooked when three or four years old. Those who choose, may prepare them for the table in the manner recommended for Salsify. Sea Kale. — To have this rare vegetable in per- fection, it should be cooked as soon as gathered. Let it be first soaked in water, seasoned with salt, for half an hour; then wash it in fresh water, and put it into the cooking utensil ; keep it boiling briskly, skim clean, and let off steam; when the stalks are tender, which may be expected in from fifteen to twenty- five minutes, according to size and age, take it up, dish it, and serve it up with melted butter, gravy, and such condiments as may be most agreeable to the palate. Skirret. — The roots of the Skirret are very whole- some for food. They are composed of several fleshy tubers, as large as a man's finger, and joining together at top. They are eaten boiled and stewed, with butter, pepper, and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold, with oil and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much the taste and flavour of a Parsnip, but are a great deal more palatable. Spinach. — Some cook Spinach in a steamer over boiling water, but it is very good boiled, provided it be well drained in a colander before it is dished ; this is absolutely necessary, if you wish to have it so as to absorb a moderate quantity of gravy, melted butter, &c. which is indispensible with green vegetables. Turnip. — This is a favourite vegetable with some, aad in England a leg of mutton and caper sauce is con- HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. 129 sidered by epicures as but half a dish without mashed Turnips. To have them in perfection, they should, after having been deprived of their rind, be equalised by cutting the largest transversely in the centre, and then, after being boiled tender, let them be taken up and pressed as dry as possible ; at the same time let a lump of butter and a due portion of cayenne pepper and salt be added, and be beaten up with the turnips until properly mixed. Use the natural gravy from the meat unadulterated, and such condiment as may be most esteemed. Vegetable Marrow, as well as all other kinds of Squashes, should, after having been boiled tender, be pressed as close as possible between two wooden trenchers, or by means of a slice or skimmer, made of the same materials, until dry, and then prepared for the table in the same manner as Turnips. In conclusion of this article, it may be necessary to observe, that all vegetables should be drained as dry as possible before they are dished, as the liquid running from them in the plate weakens such gravies or con- diments as may be served up with them, and, conse- quently, makes them less palatable. 12* i^m©w^^s^ REFLECTIONS. Whate'er has beauty, worth, or power, Or grace, or lustre, is a Flower ; Wit is a Flower ; and bards prepare The Flowers of Fancy for the fair; While Beauty's flowery fetters bind In sweet captivity the mind. Deep in the bosom dwells a Flower, Nor time shall taint, nor death devour; A Flower that no rude season fears. And VIRTUE is the fruit it bears ; Which join'd to patience, peace, and love, Will smooth the path to realms above. OBSERVATIONS IS^IStdDWIBIE (EiilBDmsr^ Previous to forming a Flower Garden, the ground should be made mellow and rich, by being well pul- verised, manured, and prepared in every respect as if intended for a Kitchen Garden. A Flower Garden should be protected from cold cutting winds by close fences, or plantations of shrubs, forming a close and compact hedge, which should be neatly trimmed every year. Generally speaking, a Flower Garden should not be upon a large scale; the beds or borders should in no part of them be broader than the cultivater can reach to, without treading en them : the shape and number of the beds must be determined by the size of the ground, and the taste of the person laying out the garden. Much of the beauty of a pleasure garden depends on the manner in which it is laid out ; a great variety of figures may be indulged in for the Flower bed. Some choose oval or circular forms, others squares, triangles, hearts, diamonds, &c., and inter- sected winding gravel walks. Neatness should be the prevailing characteristic of a Flower Garden, and it should be so situated as to form an ornamental appendage to the house; and where circumstances will admit, placed before windows ex- posed to a southern or south-eastern aspect. The principle on which it is laid out, ought to be that of exhibiting a variety of colour and form, so blended as to present one beautiful whole. In a small Flower Garden, viewed from the windows of a house, thi» 134 FLOWER GARDEN. effect is best produced by beds, or borders formed on the side of each other, and parallel to the windows from whence they are seen, as by that position the colours show themselves to the best advantage. In a retired part of the garden, a rustic seat may be formed, over and around which honey-suckles and other sweet and ornamental creepers and climbers may be trained on trellises, so as to afford a pleasant retirement. Although the greatest display is produced by a ge- neral Flower Garden, that is, by cultivating such a variety of sorts in one bed or border, as may nearly insure a constant blooming, yet bulbous plants, while essential to the perfection of the Flower Garden, lose something of their peculiar beauty when not cultivated by themselves. The extensive variety of bulbous roots furnish means for the formation of a garden, the beauty of which arising from an intermixture of every variety of form and colour, would well repay the trou- ble of cultivation, particularly as by a judicious selec- tion and management, a succession of bloom may be kept up for some length of time. As, however, bul- bous flowers lose their richest tints about the time that annuals begin to display their beauty, there can be no well founded objection to the latter being transplanted into the bulbous beds, so that the opening blossoms of the annuals may fill the place of those just withered, and continue to supply the flower beds with all the gaiety and splendour of the floral kingdom. But the taste of the florist will be exercised to little purpose, in his selection of flowers, if he does not pay strict attention to the general state of his garden. If there are lawns or grass walks, they should he fre- quently trimmed, and more frequently mowed and rolled, to prevent the grass from interfering with the flower beds, and to give the whole a neat regular carpet-like appearance. If there are gravel walks. ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 135 they should be frequently cleaned, replenished with fresh gravel, and rolled. Box and other edgings should be kept clear of weeds, and neatly trimmed every spring. Decayed plants should be removed, and re- placed with vigorous ones from the nursery bed. Tall flowering plants must be supported by neat poles or rods ; and all dead stalks and leaves from decayed flowers must be frequently removed. In the summer season, all kinds of insects must be timely destroyed, and in the evening of warm days, the flowers will require frequent watering. A CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. GRAINES DE FLUKES ANNUELLES. Alkekengi, or Kite Flower, Alropa physaloides. Alyssum Sweet, Aly^sam niaritium. ^ Amariinthus, three coloured, Amarantkus tricolor. Amethyst, blue, .tmdhystea cerulea, k Balsaniines of various co- lours, Imnatiens hahnmina. Bladder ketmia. Hibiscus trionum. Blue bottle, great, Ccntaurca cjanus major. Blue bottle, small, cyavas minor. J Browallia (blue and white,) RrowaUia elala. ^ Cacalia, scarlet, Carcdu: coccinea. Candytuft, white and purple, Iberis alba and purpurea. Do. sweet scented, odoratn. Catch fly, Silenc anneria. ^ Centaurea, great American, Cenlaurea Americana. China asters of various kinds and colours, Asler sinensis. Chinese mallow, red, Malva sinensis rubra. Chrysanthemum, white, yel- low, and tri coloured, Chrysanthemum coronarium, ^ Cockscomb, crmisoa and yellow, Celoeia crislata. * Convolvulus, dwarf. Convolvulus minor. 136 ANNITAL FLOWER SEEDS. Coreopsis, Golden, Coreopsis tinctoria. Cuckold's Horn, (two stami- ncd, Martynia diandria. Devil in a. Bush, or Love in a JVigella damas^ena. Mtssemhi yanlhemum glabrum. Omothera grandijiora. Xeranthtmum lucidum. annum. Evphorbia varitgata. Stipn innnnia. Adonis miniata. mist, HI varieties, Dew Plant, ^ Evening primrose. Eternal tlower, yellow, Do. purple. Euphorbia, variegated, Feather, grass, Flos adonis, k Globe Amaranthus, purple, white, and striped, Gomphrena globosa. Graceful, branched podolepis, Podulcpis gracilis. Hawkvveed, yellow, Crepis barbata aurantia. Do. red, ridjra. Do. white, alba. * Hedge Hogs, Medicago inlerltxta. k Ice plant, Mesembnjanihemum clirystal linum. Jacobea, or Groundsell, purple and white, Job's Tears, Larkspur, broad leaved, Do. branching and up. right, Lavatera, European, Love lies bleeding, * Lupins of various colours, Malope, great flowered, Marigold, African, Do. French, Marigold, starry, *Marvel of Peru, (or 4 o'clock) Mirabilis jalupa * Mignonette, (sweet scented) Reseda odorata. Senecio elcgnns and alba. Coix lachryma J obi. De/phintum peregrinium- consoUdum. Lavatera trimcsiris Amaranthus mtlancholicvs. Lapinus var. Malope grand ijlora. Tagttts erecta. patula. Calendula steilata. Nolana, trailing, * Oats, animated, Pansey, or Heart's Ease, Pempcrnell, blue, * Poppy, horned, * Poppy, officinal white, Pentapetes, scarlet, Prince's feather, * Sensitive plant, Strawberry Spinach, Nolana prostrata. Jlvena sensaiiva. Viola tricolor. Anagallis cerulea indiea, Glaucum luteum. Papaver somniferum. Pentapetes Phcenica. A7naran thus hypochondriaeus. Mimosa sensiliva. Blitum capitatum. ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 137 Sunflower, tall and dwarf, Helianthus annuus. Sweet Saltan, purple, white, and yellow, Centaurea,, var. * Stock Ten Week, or giUi- flower, various colours, CheirnntJius annuus. Touch me not, J^ofi me tangere. Trefoil, crimson, Trifolium incamaium. Do. sweut scented, odorala. * Venus' looking glass, Campanula speculum. Venus' navel wort. Cotyledon macrophyllum. Xeranthemum, or eternal flow- er, white, Xeranthemum lucidum alba. Ximenisia, Mexican, Ximenisia ensaloides. Zinnia, red and yellow, Zinnia, rubra and lutea. The following" are climbing plants, and will require to be planted in situations where they can be support- ed by sticks or twine, without interfering with other plants. Balloon vine, or love in a puff". Cardtospurmum. 4 Cypress vine, Ipomoea coccinea. Fumitory pink, Fumaria fungosa. Hyacinth Bean, Dilichos, purpurea and alba. Morning Glory, various co- lours, Convolvulus major. Balsam Apple and Pear, Momordica batsamina. Gourd, tlic bottle, Cucurbila lagenaria. Do. two coloured, bicolor. Do. Orange, auranlia. Snake Melon, Cucumis melo anguinui. Sweet Peas of various kinds and colours, Lathyrus vdoratus. As many city gardens are so limited as not to admit of an extensive assortment of Flowers, a select list may be made from the above catalogue to suit th« taste of such as may be so situated ; and amateurs, who cultivate on a larger scale, can obtain such addi- tional sorts as may be desired at the diflerent 8e«d stores, under their various names. 13 IS8 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. Previous to providing annual flower seeds, the cul- tivator should lay cut a plan of the garden, and in making allotments of ground for any particular pur- poie, provision should be made for a select assortment of such bulbousj tuberous, and perennial plants as may be deemed most worthy of attention, not forgetting to leave room for some of the choicest varieties of the Dahlia, the qualities of which will be described hereafter. Another consideration is, to have suitable imple- ments ready, so that the work can be performed in a skilful manner, and at the proper season. A spade, rake,'hoe, trowel, drilling machine an:3 pruning knife, may be deemed essentials ; and in order to have the beds laid out with the edges strait and even, a garden line should be in readiness. If labels be required, they may be made of shingles, which being split into strips of about an inch wide, and sharpened at one end, will serve for marking distinct kinds, either in pots, or on the borders. In order to have the names or numbers written in legible characters, the labels should be painted on the smooth side with white lead, and then marked with black lead pencil before the paint gets dry ; inscriptions made in this way will be as durablo as the label itself. The next, and perhaps the most important con- sideration is, to have the ground in good condition to receive the seed. In order to attain this desirable object, let some good rich compost, or very old manure be provided, and well mixed with the soil ; dig it a full spit deep, pulverising every particle. If the ground could be dug to a great depth at the clearing up of winter, and then again at the period of sowing the seed, it will be an advantage. All kinds of annual Flower seeds may be sown in the montli of April and May, on borders or beds of ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 1^9 clean light earth ; the beds should be levelled, and the seeds sown either in small patches, each kind by itself, or in drills from a quarter to half an inch deep, accord- ing to the size or nature of the seed. Lupins, Peas, &c. should be planted nearly an inch deep. Those who would have their plants to flower early, should sow the hardy kinds the last week in March, or early in April, the most tender (which are marked §) may be sown in boxes or pots of light earth at the same time. These, if exposed to the sun every day, and sheltered in cold nights, will be forwarded in growth, and be fit to transplant early in June. Those marked *, may also be sown in small pots. As these plants do not well bear transplanting, they should be turned out of the pots with the balls of earth entire, and placed in the ground where they are intended tollower; or if the seed be sown in abed with other kinds, they should be carefully transplanted with a trowel, without dis- turbing their roots. The most eligible way to obtain early flowers, is to prepare a slight hot-bed for the tender kinds, and either to plunge the pots therein up to their brims, or to sow the seed in the earth in shallow drills, not more than a quarter of an inch deep. It may be necessary here to observe, that in favourable seasons, flower seed in general will come up in from one to three weeks after it is sown, except the seed of Cypress vine, which should be first partially scalded in warm water, and then sown. If some of the hardy annuals be sown in September, they w^ill grow large enough to survive the winter by a slight covering of straw or litter ; and if plants thus raised, be trans- planted early in the spring, they will produce very early flowers. The following are some of the hardiest i 140 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. AlysBum sweet. Coreopsis, in varieties. China aster, in varieties. Catch fly. Chrysanthemum, in varieties. Evening Primrose. Larkspur, in varieties. Pansey, or Heart's ease. Poppy, in varieties. Rocket Larkspur. To prevent disappointment, I would recommend great care to be taken to keep the seed beds as clear from weeds as possible. It cannot be denied but young plants are apt to get smothered, and sometimes pulled up with weeds. To obviate this, I would sug- gest that the seeds be sown in shallow drills, each kind by itself, ami that an account be kept of the con- tents of each drill in a book ; also of all seeds that are sown at different times, and by being particular in the dates, you may always know when to expect your plants to come up. Those persons who may be totally unacquainted with plants, will, by this meanSj be enabled to identify each particular kind, and thus become familiarly acquainted with them. In order that this may be rendered plain to my readers, I adopt the following plan of entry of six kinds sown in potSg and six in the open ground : April 20, sowed flower seeds in pots. Pot marked A, or 1, Amaranihus tricolour. B, or 2 Balsamines. C, or 3, Co'kscomb, crimson. D, or 4. Egg Plant. E, or 5, Ice Plant. F, or 6, Migiionelte. These pots may be either marked with letters or figures on the outside, to answer with the book, or notches may be cut in wood, or other labels aflfixed to the pots, and entered accordingly. April 20, sowed flower seeds in drills, as under : No. I, Bladder kelmia. 2, Coreopsis tincloria. 3, Yellow Eternal fiowcT. 4, Globe amnrantlius. 5, Princes feather. 6, Larkspur branching. ANNITAL FLOWER SEKDS. 14 1 If these numbers be continued to 100, or even 1000, there can be no mistake, provided the rows are all marked according to the entry in the book ; or if No. I be noted, plain sticks will answer afterwards, if one be stuck at each end of every row. In this case, it would be well to leave a space every ten or twenty rows, and note the number of the rows ; by this means, they can bo the more easily traced. If the book be kept by any other than the Gardener, each bag or paper of seed should be marked or num- bered according to the entry in the book, and given to the Gardener, with directions to sow them in the re- gular order. When seeds are intended to be sown in patches, which is often done for want of an unoccupied border, the best way to perform tiiis business is, after having pulverised the soil, to impress circular drills in the surface, with the rim of a flower pot, which may be large or small, according to fancy. By sowing seeds in such circular drills, the plants can be the more easily traced than when scattered promiscuously over the ground, and the weeds can be destroyed with less risk and trouble. Such kinds as are marked in the cata- logue* may remain as sown, or if parted, they should be removed with a scoop trowel in a careful manner, in small tufts, and this business, as well as transplantt- ing in general, should be always done immediately preceding, or after rain, and in cloudy weather. Her- baceous plants will not flourish, or flower well, if grown in clusters ; they should, therefore, be transplanted into the regular beds, at all favourable opportunities, after they get to about an inch in length ; and as there is always a risk of some plants not taking root, it is safest to plant a few of each sort every time, taking care to diversify the colours, and also to leave a few plauU m the seed beds for the purpose of substituting 13* 142 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. in the room of such plants whose period of flowering may be over; as is the case generally with early pe- rennial plants and bulbs, at about the season that the last of the annuals are fit to remove. The transplanting may be done with a small trowel, or a neat dibble made for the purpose. BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. GRAINES DE FLEUKS BISANNUELLES ET VIVACE3. Those marked 11 are Biennials. Adonis, spring flowering. Alpine Columbine, Alyssum, yellow, Asiatic globe flower, Bee Larkspur, y Canterbury Bells, (blue and white.) Cardinal flower, scarlet, Cassia, Maryland, Carnation, pink, Chinese, imperial pink, Clove, CO. Colutea, scarlet, Coreopsis, elegant, Coreopsis Lameolatum, Coronet, flowered Lychniss, II Clary, jiurple topped, Crimson Eergumot, Columbine, double, Dragon's head, European globe flower, Enpatorium, bluf, II Fox-glove, purple, Do. white, Fraxinella, red. Gentian, purple. Gentian, Porcelain flowered, Gilliflowcr, many sorts, Globe Thistle, Adonis rernalis. Aquilegia alpina. A lyssum saxutile. Trollius Asiaticus. Ddphiniuin elalum. Campanula medium. Lobelia Cardinalis. Cassia Marylandica. Dianihus caryophyllus. Chinensis. hurlensis. Sutherlandiafrulescens. Coreopsis grande-Jlora. Corfjipsia lanceolatum. Lychnis coi onala. ISalvin sclara. Monarda Kalmiana. Aquilegia rulgaris. Drarocephalum. Trollius Europaeu&. Enpatorium cerulea. Digitalis purpurea. alba. Dictnmnus rubra. Gentiana saponaria. Gen liana adscendens. Cheirinnthus mcanus^ Echinops sphosrocephalu9. BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 143 Hollyhock, black Antwerp, Do. China of sorts, Do. English do. fl Hone'ity, or Saiin Flower, Ivy Leaved Toad Flax, Jacob's Ladder, Liatris, long spiked, Lupin Perennial, Lychnis, Dwarf Mountain, Do. scarlel, London Pride,or Maiden Pink, Monks'-hood, Monkey-flower, blue, Monkey flower, dark spotted. Phlox, or French Lilac, Pink, pheasanl-eyed, Perennial Campanula, Perennial Larkspur, Purple Perennial Flax, II Pyramidal Bell Flower, 168 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS PLANTS. expand in the sprino;, provided the ground can be brought into good condition to receive them ; the holes should be dug capacious enough to hold the roots without cramping them, and some earth well pulveri- sed must be thrown equally among the fibres of the roots, which should be well shaken and trodden down around the plants, until brought to the level required. Evergreens should be removed carefully with a ball of earth connected with their roots, and some good mould should be provided to fill in with. OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION OP BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. These plants exhibit a striking variety of the beauties of nature. It would seem as if every change she was capable of forming, was included in the radiant colours of the Tulip. Never was a cup either painted or enamelled with such a profusion of tints. Its tinges are so glowing, its contrasts so strong, and the arrangement of them both so elegant and aitful, that it may, with propriety, be denomi- nated the reigning beauty of the garden, in its season. The Hyacinth is also an estimable flower for its bloom- ing complexion, as well as for its most agreeable per- fume and variety. The Double Dahlia, in its numerous varieties, is inconceivably splendid. It is only about forty years since the first of these, which was single, was intro- duced into Europi! from Mexico. Double Dahlias of three colours were first known in the year 1802, since that time the varieties have so increased, that such as a few years ago were con- sidered beautiful, are now thrown away to give place to the more splendid sorts. I have good authority for BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS PLANTS. 159 stating that upwards of twenty thousand seedlings are raised yearly in England, only a few of which are introduced into the collection of amateurs, to take the place^ of such old sorts as may from time to time be rejected. This is done, in order that none but the very choicest be retained in such collections. In some gardens in Holland they cultivate, by dis- tinct names, about eleven hundred varieties of Tulips, thirteen hundred of Hyacinths, and six hundred of Ranunculus and Anemones, some of which are sold as high as sixty dollars the single root. It is stated in the travels of Mr. Dutens, of his having known ten thousand florins, equal to ,^4000, refused for a single Hyacinth, and Dodsley says, in his Annual Register for 1765, that the Dutch of all ranks, from the greatest to the meanest, during the years from 1634 to 1637 inclusive, neglected their business to engage in the Tulip trade. Accordingly, in those days, the Viceroy was sold for £250, the Admiral Lief keens £440, and Semper Augustus at from £500 to £1000 each, and also that a collection of Tulips was sold by the executors of one Wouter Broekholsmentser for £9000. It is stated that in one city in Holland, in the space of three years, they had traded for a million sterling in Tulips. As a full catalogue of all the varieties of Bulbous and Tuberous-rooted plants would occupy a number of pages, without affording much general interest, I shall content myself by devoting a short paragraph in de- scribing some of each particular species, which will be accompanied with directions for their culture, in a brief, and, at the same time, explicit manner. It may be here necessary to define the difference between Bulbous and Tuberous roots. Those desig- nated Bulbous, have skins similar to Onions, or the Allium tribe ; and Tuberous roots imply all such as produce tubes something similar to Potatoes. 1^0 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS PLANTS. Tlie soil for Bulbous and Tuberous roots in general should be light, and yet capable of retaining moisturCj not such as is liable to become bound up by heat, or that in consequence of too large a portion of sand, is likely to become violently hot in summer; but a medium earth between the two extremes. But as many city gardens do not contain a natural soil of any depth, a suitable compost should be provided in such cases, which may consist of about equal parts of sand, loam, rotten manure, mould, &c. When ready, the beds may be laid out, from three to four feet wide, and they should be raised two or three inches above the level of the walks, which will give an opportunity for all superfluous moisture to run off. Let the beds thus formed be pulverised to the depth of fifteen or eighteen inches, and at the time of planting, let a small quantity of beach sand be strewed in the apertures or trenches, prepared for the roots to grow in, both before and after placing them, which will prove beneficial. A southern exposure, dry and airy, and sheltered from the north-west winds is preferable for most bulbs. But Anemones and Ranunculus should be in some measures heltered from the intense heat of noon. Beds of hardy bulbous and tuberous roots should be covered on the approach of winter with litter, leaves, straw, or such earth as is formed by the decay of leaves, to the depth of two or three inches, as it pre- vents any ill effects which a severe season may have on the roots ; but it should be carefully raked off again in the spring. Bulbous roots in general should be taken up in about a month or six weeks after the bloom is exhausted ; the foliage or leaves then turn yellow. If fine warm weather, the bulbs may be dried on the beds they grew on, by placing them in separate rows, being BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS PLANTS. 161 careful not to mix the several varieties together. To prevent such an accident, labels may be affixed to, or placed in the ground opposite each bulb — they will keep much better for being dried gradually ; to this end, a little dry earth may be shaken over them, to screen them from the heat of the sun. If it rain before they get dry, take them in, or cover them with boards ; when dry, clear them of the fibres and stem, and then put them away in dry sand ; or wrapped in paper, they may be kept in boxes or drawers until the season of planting again. The tender tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, and the like, will have to be taken up before the cold becomes severe. As the Dahlia exhibits its flowers in all their splendour, until nipped by the frost, the roots ought, in the event of a very sudden attack, to be secured from its blighting effects. They are not apt to keep weJl, if taken up before they are ripened ; the tops should, therefore, be cut down as soon as they have done flowering, and the ground covered around the roots, with dung or litter ; this Avill enable them to ripen without being injured by frost ; and in about a week after being cut down, or on the appearance of severe weather, they should be dug up and packed in dry sand, and then stowed away in a dry place out of the reach of frost. The temperature suited to keep green- house plants will preserve them in good order. Some people complain of the difficulty of keeping Dahlia roots through the winter. I am of opinion that they are often killed from being taken up before they are ripe, and then put in a confined damp place ; or are by some, perhaps, subjected to the other extreme, and dried to a husk. I keep mine on shelves in the greenhouse, and seldom lose one in a hundred. If it be an object with the cultivator to have the names perpetuated from year to year, each plant should have 15 162 AMARYLLIS. a small label affixed to the old stalk, by means of small brass wire, as twine is very apt to get rotten. Cape Bulbs, and such tuberous roots as are culti- vated in pots, on account of their tenderness, should be kept dryi after the foliage is decayed, until within about a month of their period of regerminating ; at which time they should, after having been deprived of their surplus offsets, be repotted in good fresh earth. There are some descriptions of bulbous and tuber- ous roots that need not be taken up oftener than once in two or three years, and then only to deprive them of the young offsets, and to manure the ground. These will be described hereafter under their different heads. In the articles which follow, I have named the pre ferable season for planting the various kinds of bul- bous and tuberous roots ; but as some bulbs will keep in good condition several months, there can be no ob- jection to retaining such out of the ground, to suit any particular purpose or convenience. DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. Amaryllis. Of this genus of flowering bulbs there are about eighty species, and upwards of one hundred varieties ; they are natives of South America, and in Europe are generally kept in the hot-house ; some of the varieties are hybrids, produced by cultivation ; these succeed very well in the green-house, and in this country we frequently have very perfect flowers in the borders. A few of the choicest varieties are as follows : Amaryllis Aulica, or Crowned Amaryllis, is one of the most beautiful ; it produces four flowers, about AMARYLLIS. 163 seven inches diameter, on an erect stem, about two feet and a half high, with six petals of green, crimson, and fine transparent red colours. A. Ballota, produces three or four rich scarlet flowers on the stem, each about five inches in diameter ; there are two or three varieties of this species, all beautiful, A Johnsoniensis. The stem of this variety rises about two feet, and exhibits four beautiful scarlet flowers, with a white streak in the centre of each petal, each flower about six inches diameter. It sometimes produces two stems. A. Longifolia, or Crinum Capense, is perfectly- hardy ; it flowers in large umbels of a pink colour, inclining to white, and is a good garden variety. Amaryllis Formosissima, or Jacobean Lily, produces a flower of great beauty, although a low-priced plant. It throws out gracefully its glittering crimson-coloured petals, which have a brilliancy almost too intense for the eye to rest upon. The A. Lutea produces its bright yellow flowers in October, in the open air ; but the bulb requires a little protection in the winter, or it may perish. The most suitable soil for AmarylHses is a clean new earth, taken from under fresh grass sods, mixed with sand and leaf mould ; the latter ingredient should form about a third of the whole, and the sand about a sixth. Some of the varieties may be planted in pots during the month of April, and others will do very well in the open ground if planted early in May, in a sunny situation. The bulb should not be set more than half its depth in the ground ; as, if planted too deep, it will not bloom, the plant deriving its nourishment only from the fibres. When the bulbs have done flowering, such as are in pots should be watered very sparingly, so that they may be perfectly ripened, which will cause them to shoot stronger in the ensuing season, 164 ANEMONES, RANUNCULUSES, AND CROCUSES. and those in the ground should be taken up and pre- served in sand or paper. Anemonjes& Ranunculuses. These are medium, or half-hardy roots, producing beautiful little flowers of various hues, and are highly deserving of cultiva- tion. These roots should be planted in a fresh, well pulverised, loamy soil, enriched with cow dung. If planted in the garden, the beds ought not to be raised above one inch higher than the alleys, and the surface should be level, as it is necessary, for the prosperity of these plants, rather to retain than to throw oif mois- ture. The plants will generally survive our winters ; but it is always safest to plant them in such a manner that a temporary frame of boards can be placed over them, when the weather sets in severe ; and if they are to be shaded while in flower, the posts intendedffor the awning may be fixed in the ground at the same time ; these will serve to nail the boards to, and thus answer two purposes. Anemones and Rununculuses may be planted in October or November, in drills two inches deep, and six inches apart; the roots should be placed claws downwards, about four inches distant from each other, and covered up, leaving the bed quite level. The awning need not be erected over the beds until they come into flower, which will be early in May. Crocuses. — These are hardy little bulbs, said to be natives of Switzerland. There are in all about fifty varieties of this humble, yet beautiful little plant, em- bracing a great variety of hues and complexions, and their hardiness and earliness in flower ofler a strong motive to their cultivation. The bulbs may be planted in October or November, in rows about six inches from the edgings ; or if in beds, they may be placed in ranks of distinct colours, about four inches apart, and from one to two deep, which will afford to their ad- CROWN IMPERIAL, COLCHICUM, AND DAHLIA. 165 mirers considerable amusement and gratification, and that at a very early season. They are generally in full perfection early in April. Crown Imperial. — This is a species of the genus Fritillaria, of which there are about twenty species and varieties, chiefly natives of Persia. These squa- mose bulbs produce tall luxuriant stems, embellished with green glossy foliage, and flowers of various hues ; but there are only a fewof the most curious cultivated, perhaps on account of their odour, which, to some persons, is disagreeable. They are, however, very hardy, and produce singular and showy flowers, in April and May, suited to make a variety to the flower border, in which they may be planted in August and September, from three to four inches deep ; they need not be taken up every year as other bulbs, and when they are, which may be about every third year, they ought not to be retained too long out of the ground before they are again planted as before. Colchicum. — This curious little bulb, being planted in the month of June, about two inches deep, produces its flowers in October, it then dies, without leaving any external appearance of seeds ; they, however, lie buried in the bulb all the winter, and in spring, pro- duce a stalk with seeds, which get ripe by the first of June, just in time to plant for flowering in the ensuing autumn. How wonderful are the provisions of nature ! Double Dahlia. — This may, Avith propriety, be denominated one of the most important perennial tuberous-rooted plants that can be introduced into a garden ; and from the circumstance of its having become so fashionable of late years, I have felt anxious to furnish in this work a very select list ; I, therefore, applied to Mr. G. C. Thorburn, who, from a regular correspondence with connoisseurs, both in England and America, is acquainted with all the most rare and 15* 166 DOUBLE DAHLIA. beautiful varieties. He has kindly furnished a list and description of about sixty of the choicest, some of which are deemed extra fine ; to these I have added about a hundred more, all of which are pre-eminent, and not a few of them have taken prizes at the English and American exhibitions. In making this selection, several superb varieties are omitted, not because they are undervalued, but for the sake of brevity, which, in a work of this kind, must be consulted. Those marked A, are considered the very tallest, six feet and upvrards. Those marked B, from five to six feet. Those ranging between four and fiveTeet, are marked C, and the dwarfs are marked D. This plan is adopted, because it is difficult to ascertain the exact height they will grow^ to, even in one uniform soil and situa- tion. The descriptions that follow having been taken by different persons, whose soils and situations are also various, a diflference in the height of the plants, of a foot or more may sometimes be observed. Those marked * obtained the greatest number of prizes at the various Floricultural and Horticultural exhibitions m Great Britain. There are, perhaps, a hundred more in this list not far beneath them, and some equally worthy of the star or asterisk, but none are marked except those which won ten prizes and upwards. CATALOGUE OF DOUBLE DAHLIAS. Amanda, delicate pink, . . - - C Agrippina, mottled, with rosy lilac, [superb,] - D Aurantia Pallida, beautiful orange and red, - C Aiirantia Speciosa and Speciosissima, both beautiful fine orange, . . _ . - C Anne Eoleyne, shaded iilac and white, - - D Altro Purpurea, two varieties, superba and spediosa, C Agamemnon, (Widnall's), rich ruby with fine cupped petaIs,C Barrett's Susannah, exquisite purple, flower very compact, A Brewer's Rose d' Amour, deep rose tip'd with white [excellentJA Brewer's Peerless Orange, scarlet orange, - C DOUBLE DAHLIA. 167 * Beauty of Sheffield, edged, (eleven prizes were obtained for this fiower last year) in England, Beauty of Chiswick, scarlet, . . - B * Belladonna, a new shaded flower, won eleven prizes. Buchanan'.^ Corapacta, a most perfect formed blight crimson, [extra fine,] - . . . - D Bona Dea, fine orange scarlet, - - - D Brewer's Sulphnrum Majestum, delicate yellow, - C Black Prince,( Widnall's), rich dark crimson with black stripes,C * Blanda, or Blush Lilac, beautiful lilac, won eleven prizes, B Beauty of Camden, extra fine ruby, - - B Camellia Flora Alba, snow white, very perfect, [superb,] G Columbine, vivid scarlet, - - - - B Crimson Multiflora, crimson, - - - D * Countess of Liverpool, crimson scarlet, [extra fine,] A * Criterion (a new edged flower,) won ten prizes in England 1 Cicero, beautiful crimson, - - - - C Camellia, black puce, - - - - G Colvell's Perfecta, fine purple, - - - B * Coccinea Speciosissima and Coccineas speciosa, both bright scarlet, B Coronation, crimson maroon, - - - B Carmine Orange, [extra fine,] - - - G Canary, fine yellow, - - - D Daniel C'Connell, orange scarlet, - - G Duchess of Richmond, extra fine scarlet, - G Douglas's Augusta, beautiful purple, very large flower, A Desdemona, pure white, . - - . B Dennisii, ruby purple, [extra fine,] - - - B Diana, (Widnall's,) beautiful pink, - - - B Donna Maria De Gloria, (Young's), bright rosy crimson, [very perfect,] - - - - - G Duchess of Braganza, (Young's,) white and lilac with red margin [superb,] . - . . D Erecta, fine crimson with black stripes, - - D Earl Grey, (Miller's,) shaded lilac, - - G Emperor of the Yellows, (Sally's,) superb yellow, A Earl of Chichester. (Young's,) dark purple, finely striped with lilac, - ' - - - - - D Fulgida Perfecta, large crimson, - - - B Fumes Purpurea, variegated purple striped, - D Fair Ellen, fine pink and lilac, [superb,] - - G Fimbriata Alba, pure white, - - - C Foster's Premier, tine rosy, - - - B Foster's Constantia, carmine or crimson, - - B * 21 prizes were obtained for the Countess of Liverpool, in England last year, and 13 for the Coccinea Speciosissima. 168 DOUBLE DAHLIA. Foster's Niagara, very dark coloured, - - C Fair Devonian, beautiful rose pink, [extra fine,] - D Golden Yellow, fine yellow, - - - A Grandiflora, puce purple, . - . . t^ Globe Crimson, ball-flower, quilled, - - - D Groombridge's Matchless, fine large purple, [superb,] - Bj Golconda, ( Widnali's,) white spotted, [extra fine,] - C" Grand Duke of Tuscany, fine black puce, - - C Guttata Major, white with purple spots, (extra large flower,) B Hermione, beautiful blush, - - - . c *Harpalyce, white, won eleven prizes, - - A Hall's Mogul, dark purple, - - - . B Henry the Eighth, dark maroon, - . . C Hall's Palmyra, beautiful plum colour, - - B * Incomparable, (Levick's,) scarlet, tipped with white, B Incomparable, (Foster's,) beautiful scarlet, - - B Inapproachable, pure carmine, [splendid.] - - C Imogene, fine variegated, - - . . D Involute Purpurea, crimson purple, - - - D "f Inwood's Springfield Rival, dark rosy crimson, with singu- larly beautiful cupped petals, ... - A Jonquille, (Widnali's) fine lemon colour, - - - A Juliet, rosy lilac, D Jaune Insurmountable, yellow, . . . . B Juno, superb lilac, - - - _ - - - - C King of Dahlias, pure white, edged with rose pink, [superb,] C * King of the Whites, delicate paper white, first rate, - B King of the Yellows, (Cutbush's) delicate yellow, - B King Alfred, (Miller's) delicate rose lilac, - - C * Lord Derby, a first rate dark coloured Dahlia, won 11 prizes, B * Lord Liverpool, very dark purple, [excellent,] - - A * Lady Grenville, beautiful rose coloured, - - - C Lady Grey, beautiful shaded rose, - - - - C Lady Fordwich, beautiful blush, .... Landgravine, rosy mottled with white, . . . D * Levick's Lord Milton, beautiful orange, won 11 prizes, - B Linn's Fine Striped, lilac and crimson, [superb,] - A Lass of Richmond Hill, beautiful scarlet, - - . B * Levick's Commander-in-Chief, crimson, with black stripes, A Lord John Russell, scarlet ball, [extra fine,] - - B Lord Brougham, dark velvet purple, - . . . B Levick's Mozart, extra fine crimson, - - - - D Laura, white, with lilac edge, D Lady Sefton, beautiful rose coloured} - - - - C Lady Fitzharris, fine crimson, C Miss Pelham, fine lilac, [beautiful,] - - - - B * Inwood's Springfield Rival won 15 prizes, the King of the Whites 27, the Lord Liverpool 15, the Lady Grenville 15, Levick's Commander-in-Chief, 15, and his Incomparable 11. DOUBLE DAHLIA. 169 IVJaculatum, white, with purple spots, - ~ - D Man of Kent, fine rich purple, [superb,] . - - C * Maid of St. Leonard's, beautiful buft, - - - B Metropolitan, fine rose coloured, . . . - D Metropolitan striped, fine dove colour, beautifully striped, C Miss Dickson, fine lilac, A Magnet, (Wells's) fine ruby, <^' Matilda, pencil blush, [beauliful,] . . _ . D Marchioness of Abercorn, superb blush, [new,] - - G Nonpareil, (Widnall's) very compact pink flower, - G Neptune, ( Widnall's) exquisite lilac, very large tlower, G Nymphse Flora, white spotted, C Ne Plus Ultra, light purple, G New Scarlet Turban, bright scarlet, . - - - C Navarino, rich purple, - G Negro Superb, very dark, G Negro Boy, jet black, D Othello, (V/idnall's) superb dark purple, - - - D * Paper White, white, G * Priestly's Enchantress, white and red, beautifully mottled, D Phillis (Widnall's) fine rosy lilac, with cupped petals, - D Pavonia, pencilled straw, _ . . - - G Prince George of Cumberland, fine crimson, - - G Pygmea, beautiful shaded rose, . . - - D PuUa, dark purple, ^ Pencilled \Vhite, white spotted with purple, - - B Princess Augusta, shaded purple, . . _ - B Paroquet, cream and crimson, [extra fine,] - - '. ^ * Picta Formosissima, light orange, with beautiful scarlet stripes.B Paul's Rival, brilliant scarlet, - - - - - G Paganini; very dark and fine, - _ - - - - Perfection, (Wells's) rose blush and white, [excellent,] - G Polyphemus, large crimson purple, - - - - D Purpurea Elata, fine purple, ----- G * Glueen of Dahlias, white, with rosy hlac edge, [superb,] C ■" Q.ueen of the Whites, (Dennis's) paper white, very large, B * Glueen of Wurtemburg, mottled purple, - - - B Clueen Adelaide, (Connelly's) fine bright scarlet, - B Queen of the Yellows, yellow, B Glueenof the Purples, pium colour, - - - - A Glueen of Pcoses, (VVidnali's) rose coloured, very fine, - G Q,ueenofSheba,( Wells's) fine deep yellow, - - D Q.ueen of Belgium, white, elegantly tipped with purple, G dueen of August, beautiful light purple, - . - G Romulus, large scarlet, B * The Maid of St. Leonard's won 10 prizes; the Paper White, 11 ; Priestly's Enchantress, 12, Picta Formosissima, 14'; the Glueen of the Dahlias 24, and the Q,ueen of the Whiles 10. 170 DOUBLE DAHLIA. * Royal Lilac, fine lilac, won 12 prizes, - - - C RoyalDwarfOiange, scarlet orange, - - - - G Rising Sun, (Widnall's) extra fine scarlet, - - - A Richardson's Alicia, white spotted, [beautiful,] - - D Star of Sussex, splendid scarlet, - - - - C Seale's Invincible, dark maroon, with bright crimson stripes, G Scarlet Ranunculus, fine scarlet, - - - - C Sulphurea Majestum, fine yellow, - - - - A Striata, white, with purple stripes, [beautiful,] - - G j * Shannon, (Levick's) large crimson, won 10 prizes, - A Stephania, fine dark maroon, - - - - - D Surpass Triumph Royal, rosy lilac, - - - G Squibb's Pure Yellow, very delicate yellow, - - B Squibb's Master-Piece, fine scarlet, - - - - G ' Transcendanta, delicate French white, - - - C Theodore, delicate lilac, --._.. C Widnall's Cleopatra, beautiful blush, lilac, - - D Widnall's Salamander, scarlet, extra large flower, - A Widnall's Comus, fine brilliant yellow, - - G * Widnall's Prince of Orange, beautiful orange, - - A Widnall's Aurora, fine scarlet, , _ . , G * Widnall's Jason, bright yellow, . . _ . C Wells's Dwarf Yellow, bright yellow, - - - - D *, Widnall's Perfection, beautiful rosy lilac, with cupped petals, G Widnall's Flora, fine quilled rose, _ - . . D William the Fourth, (Barret's) fine scarlet, - - G * Widnall's Granta, purple, with cupped petals, - - G Zelinda, beautiful purple, D Nothing is more simple than the cultivation of these plants. In March or April, the roots, if properly kept through the winter, will begin to sprout around the old stems and tubers. To forward these sprouts in growth, the roots should be either buried in light earth, on the top of a moderate hot-bed, or else potted, and then set into a warm room, or green-house, and watered. As soon as the shoots have grown to the length of two or three inches, the roots may be divided in such a manner as to have a good strong shoot attached to a piece of the tuber, or old stem; each of these will, if properly managed, make a plant. Those who may commence cultivating at an early season, ♦ Widnall appears to have been the champion for Dahlias; his Prince of Orange won 20 prizes, his Jason 15, his Perfection 25, and his Granta 15 ; he also took several prizes for others in this list. DOUBLE DAHLIA. 171 should put the plants thus separated into small pots, and keep them in a growing state until about the middle of May, at which time they may be turned out of the pots with the balls of earth entire, and planted in the open borders, from three to four feet from each other. Let the ground be well pulverised, and en- riched with good old manure, before the plants are set out. If the top soil be shallow, and the subsoil infe- rior, it would be beneficial to the plants, if holes be dug to the depth of from a foot to eighteen inches, and then replenished with good rich compost, consisting of two-thirds fresh loam, and one-third of w^ell-rotted manure. Many cultivators have found late planting to suit better than early, and I myself had more perfect flowers last year, from plants set out about the mid, lie of June, than from those planted in May : this is easily ac- counted for. In July and August the weather was remarkably hot, which brought the forwardest plants into bud at an early season, and in consequence of a continuation of hot dry weather, such buds failed to produce perfect flowers ; whereas those plants which were set out late, kept growing through the hot wea- ther.^and produced their buds just in time to receive all the benefit of the autumnal rains. From a consideration of these facts, I think early in June the safest time to set out Dahlia plants ; and if those persons who have no convenience of forcing their roots, set them out in May, in ground prepared as before directed, they will generally succeed very well, provided they take care to cover them in case of a cold change of weather. The roots may be thus cultivated entire, as is fre- quently done ; but if it be desired to have them parted, this business is easily accomplished without disturbing 172 GLADIOLUS, OR SWORD LILY. the rootSj and the offsets may be planted in the ground separately, or potted. After the plants have grown about two or three feet high, it will be necessary to provide for their pre servation through the varied changes of the season, or a sudden gust of wind may destroy the expectations of a year. The branches of the Dahlia are extremely brittle, and, therefore, a good stout pole, or neat stake, should be driven down near each root, of a suitable height, so that the branches, as they progress in growth, may be tied thereto at every joint, which may be done with shreds of matting or twine. If the poles be in readiness, they are much more easily fixed at the time of planting the Dahlias than afterwards; but it may be done at any time after the ground has been softened by rain, provided it be not delayed too long, so as to to subject the plants to risk. Sometimes a few forward buds of the Dahlia will exhibit their premature beauties to the beams of a July and August sun ; but their lustre is quickly dimmed. The latter end of September, sometimes all October, and part of November, witness the Dahlia in all its glory ; and dwarf plants, cultivated in pots, will sometimes blos- som at Christmas. Gladiolus Corn Flag, or Sword Lilly. Of this genus of bulbs there are about fifty species, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They produce flowers of various colours in August and September, and are well worthy the attention of those who cultivate tender exotic plants. They may be planted in September or October, about an inch deep in pots, which must be kept in a green- house or light room, and watered sparingly until they begin to grow. The following are known to be superb species and varieties : G. Alatus, or Wing Flowered, producing bright orange coloured flowers. GLADIOLUS. 173 €r. blandus, produces flowers of a beautiful blush rose colour. G. byzantinus, or Turkish Flag, has large delicate purple flowers. G. cardinalis. This variety produces very large flowers, of superb scarlet colour, spotted with white. G. floribundus, or Cluster Flower, produces large flowers, of pink and white colour. The Gladiolus natalensis, or psittacinus, is perhaps the most desirable to cultivate of all others. It blos- soms freely, and the colours are exquisitely beautiful. In its progress of blooming, it exhibits variable colours, as vermilion, red, yellow, green, white, crimson, &c. which brighten, as the flower arrives at perfection, to the brilliancy of a rainbow. Another good quality displays itself in the bulb, which, if properly managed, will yield an abundance of ofiisets ; these being culti- vated, will flower the third year in perfection, and thus continue to multiply perpetually. I have named September and October as the season for planting, because it is considered the preferable season for most bulbs ; but if these be preserved in good condition through the winter, until early in April, and then planted in a soil consisting of about one half fresh loam, equal parts of leaf mould, and sand well mixed, they may be forwarded in a warm room, greenhouse, or moderate hot-bed, until settled warm weather, and then turned out of the pots into a border, where they can be shaded from the sun at noonday ; this will induce each of them to throw up three or four stems from three to four feet high, each stem producing five or six gorgeous blossoms, in great perfection. Those planted in the fall or winter, may also be turned out of the pots in June ; and, from the fibres having taken substantial root in the soil before transplanting, such plants may be taken up again in 16 174 HYACINTH. August, or early in September ; and on being planted in large pots, they may be removed, so as to perfect their bloom, within view of the parlour or sitting-room. which will aflford considerable amusement and gra- tification. Hyacinth. — There are, as has been already stated, about thirteen hundred varieties of this family of plants, comprising all the various hues, as white, pink, red, yellow, blue, purple, crimson, &c., and some of those with various coloured eyes. They begin to produce their flowers in the open borders early in April, on short erect stems covered with florets or small bells ; each floret is well filled with petals rising towards the centre, and is suspended from the stem by short strong footstalks, the longest at the bottom, and the uppermost florets stand so erect as to form a pyramid. A plantation, or a bed of these, have a very beautiful appearance, provided they are Avell attended to. In planting them, which should be in the months of October or November, care should be taken to have the colours so diversified as to suit the fancy ; they may be placed in short rows across the bed, about eight inches apart, and from three to four inches deep, measuring from the top of the bulb, and covered up at the setting in of winter, as before recommended for bulbs in general. Those who may have a fine collec- tion, should have an awning erected in the Spring, to screen them from the chilling blast, and also from drenching rains and the noonday sun ; and they should be looked over as soon as they make their appearance above ground, to see if they are all perfect and regu- lar ; if any faulty or inferior ones should appear to have been planted in a conspicuous part of the bed, by accident or mistake, they can be taken out, and by shortening the rows, others may be substituted with a trowel. When all are regulated, look over them IRIS AND IXIAS. 175 frequently, and as the stems shoot up, tie them to wires, or small rods, with shreds of bass matting or thread, being careful not to injure the florets. In about six weeks after they have done flowering, they may be taken up, and managed as recommended for bulbs in general in a former page. Iris, or Flower de Luce. — There are two dis- tinct species of plants cultivated under the name of Flower de Luce, each consisting of several varieties. The bulbous species and varieties are designated as English, Spanish, Persian, Chalcedonian, and Ameri- can. These, if introduced into the flower borders, and intermixed with perennial plants of variable colours, have a very pretty appearance when planted in clumps or patches. This may be done in the month of October, by taking out a spadeful of earth from each place allotted for a plant, and then inserting three or four bulbs, about two inches deep. If the ground be poor, some rich compost may be dug in around the spot before the bulbs are planted, and if several sorts be planted in the same border, let them be of various colours. The tuberous-rooted are of various colours, as blue, yellow, brown, and spotted ; they are easily cultivated, and flower freely in a loose soil inclining to moisture, if planted in March or April. IxiAS. — These are tender but very free-flowering bulbs, producing from their stems, which vary in height from six inches to two feet, very delicate flowers of various colours, as orange, blush, Avhite, purple, green, crimson, scarlet, and some have two and three colours connected in the same plant. There are, in all, upwards of twenty species, which may be cultivated in the greenhouse, by planting the bulbs in pots in September or October, and placing them near the light, and then watering them sparingly until they begin to shoot.. 176 JONQUIL, LAGHENALIAS, AND LILIUM. Jonquil. — This is a hardy race of bulbs, and pro- duces very deUcate yellow flowers early in May. There are different variotieSj some of which are single flowering and others double. Their fragrance is very grateful, being similar to that of Jasmines. The bulbs may be planted about two inches deep in the flower borders, or in pots, in October, or before the setting in of winter ; they flower better the second year than in the first, and, therefore, should not be moved and re- planted oftener than once in three years. Lachenalias. — These are tender little bulbs, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. There are sup- posed to be in all, about forty species and varieties. Those most cultivated with us, are the Lachenalia quadri-colour, and the tri-coloured, which are very beautiful when in full bloom, exhibiting flowers of various colours, on a stem of from six inches to a foot in height, and much in the character of Hyacinths. The colours which are yellow, scarlet,^ orange, green? &c., are very pure and distinct. L. nervosa, L. orchoides, L. punctata, and L. rubida, are all ex" cellent species, and worthy of cultivation. They may be planted from one two inches deep, in small pots, in the Month of August and September, and Avatered but sparingly until they begin to grow. LiLiUM. — There are several plants under this name, of different genera, some of which are indigenous. The Canada Lily, with yellow-spotted drooping flowers, may be seen in wet meadows towards the last of Jane and early in July. The Philadelphia Lily blooms also in July ; its flowers are red. There are some pure white, and others yellow, growing in various parts of the country. Among the foreign genera are several species. Of the Martagon, or Turks'-cap Lilies, there are some beautiful varie- ties ; as the Caligula, which produces scarlet flowers; WAUCISSUB. 177 and there is one called the Crown of Tunis, of purple colour ; besides these, are the Double Violet Flamed, the White, the Orange, and the spotted : these are all hardy, and may be planted in various parts of the garden, by taking out a square foot of earth, and then* after manuring and pulverising it, the bulbs may be planted thereinbefore the setting in of winter, at diffe- rent depths, from two to four inches, according to the size of the bulbs. Some of the Chinese varieties are very beautiful, as the Tiger, or Leopard Lily, and the Dwarf Red Lilium con colour ; there are others with elegant silver stripes, which are very showy, and there is one called Lilium superbum, that has been known to have twenty -five flowers on a stalk. Be- sides those above enumerated, there are some others which are generally cultivated in greenhouses, as the Calla, or Ethiopian Lily ; and the following, which have been known to endure our winters, by protecting them with dung, &c., Lilium Longiflorum, in two va- rieties ; these produce on their stalks, which grow from twelve to eighteen inches high, beautiful rose- coloured flowers, streaked with white, which are very sweet-scented. These roots are sometimes kept out of the ground until spring, and then planted in the flower borders, but they should be preserved carefully in sand, or dry light mould. Lilium Japonicum. Of these there are two varieties, which produce several stalks at once, yielding very showy flowers. One of the varieties is blue-flowered, and the other produces flowers of the purest white. Narcissus. — The species and varieties of this plant are numerous. The Incomparable is perfectly hardy, and produces its flowers in April, which are called by some pasche, or paus flowers, by others, butter and eggs ; perhaps because their bright yellow petals are 16* 178 OR:fITH0GALU3I. SO surrounded with large white ones. Some dislike the smell of these, and it is said that the odour has a pernicious ejQfect upon the nerves ; hut the white fra- grant double, as well a or brick-bats^ &c. must be laid over the bottom to the thickness of six inches, a little coal ashes, or small I'-ravel, must be sprinkled over the top of the stones, &c.. and then the surface be gently rolled. Also drains may be made in different directions, so that any excess of moisture can be taken entirely array from the ground. It is well known to most cultivators, that exposure of soils to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is experienced by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff and stubborn, small gravel, sand, coal ashes, lime, light animal and vegetable manure, and other light composts, are very appropriate substances to be applied, and will, if carefully managed and well worked into the ground, soon bring it into a proper condition for most purposes. Previous to laying out an Orchard or Fruit Garden, the soil should be manured and pulverised to a great FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 211 ^lepth. The soil should be sweet, that the nutriment which the roots receive may be wholesome ; free, that they may be at full liberty to range in quest of it ; and rich, that there may be no defect in food. If Orchards be made from meadows or pasture lands, the ground should be improved as much as possible by manuring, trenching, ploughing, &c. If this is not done to its full extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in width along where the fruit trees are to be planted, and at the time of plant- ing let the holes be dug somewhat larger than is suf- ficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sufficient depth to allow of a foot of rich and v/ell pulverized mould to be thrown in before the trees are planted. In planting fruit trees, they should be placed two or three inches deeper than they were in the nursery bed, and the earth intended for filling in, should be enriched and well pulverized by mixing in some good old manure, and if any leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potato tops, or other refuse of a farm be attainable, let such be used around the trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized mould be admitted among the fine roots. The trees in plant- ing should be kept at ease, and several times shaken, so as to cause an equal distribution of the finer parti- cles of earth to be connected with the small fibres of the roots ; and when completely levelled, let the ground be well trodden down and moderately watered , which should be repeated occasionally after spring planting, if the weather should prove dry. As some difference of opinion exists among prac- tical men as to the best time for planting fruit trees, the following extract from Mr. Prince's Treatise on Horticulture is submitted ; '^ Seasons for Transplanting. — Spring is the 212 OBSERVATIONS ON THE season when we find the most pleasure in making our rural improvements, and from this circumstance, pro- bably it has become the general season for planting trees, but experience has proved the fall planting to be the most successful, especially in those parts of the United States which are subject to droughts, as the trees planted in autumn suffer little or none from drought, when those set out in spring often perish in consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with regard to those fruits that have been originally brought from warmer climates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Necta- rine, and Almond, which are natives of Persia, Ar- menia, &c., it is necessary for us to consult the opera- tions of climate also ; and, from a consideration of those attendant circumstances, I have come to the following conclusions. In localities south of New York, the Fall season is preferable only for the Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees of northern latitude ; whereas the Spring is to be pre- ferred for the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which for the reasons before stated, might, during severe winters, suffer from the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean to assert that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured by the winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the least affected ; still they are exposed to vicissitudes which may or may not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of excellent judgment, make their plantations in the fall, which only serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent minds, a diversity of opinion exists. '^ Trees, &c. on their arrival at the PLACE OP DESTINATION. — As soon as the trccs ar- rive at the place where they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated ground, the bundle un- packed, and the roots well wet, and immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to make FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 213 the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to leave vacancies for the admission of air to the dry roots, it having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees, the first year after transplanting, depends much on the fine fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry from the time they are taken up until they are replanted ; their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the subsequent management on their arrival at the place of destina- tion : for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all, cannot thrive the first season, as they can receive little or no nourishment until these fibres are replaced. To CAUSE THE Trees TO THRIVE. — Tne gTound where they are planted must be kept cultivated ; young trees will not thrive if the grass be permitted to form a sod around them, and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and free from grass for three or four feet distant around them, and every autumn some well-rotted manure should be dug in and around each tree, and every spring the bodies of the Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry Trees, and others that it is par- ticularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water ; this treatment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing the expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect. Should the first season, after transplanting prove dry, regular watering will be ne- cessary, as from neglect of proper attention in this 1 aspect, many lose a large portion of their trees during a drought.'* Such kinds of fruit trees treated upon in this Avork as may require any other than good ordinarv soil, may i9* 214 OBSERVA.TIONS, &C. be supplied, by judicious management ; and if a proper attention be paid to the situation and aspect in arranging a Fruit Garden, each kind may be so accom- modated as to promote its fruits' ripening earUer or later than the ordinary season, by varying the aspect • but Grape Vines, or other tender fruits, should not be planted where the sun's influence does not fully operate. Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall, it is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different aspects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a south aspect, which will ripen earliest ; next, against either an east or west, and lastly, against a north aspect ; by observing this method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums, Gooseberries, Currants, &c. the fruit will ripen in succession, and thus a supply of them is considerably lengthened. The early-blooming fruit trees will sometimes need protection in warm aspects ; for which arrangements may be made by keeping awning, matting, netting, &c. at hand, to shelter them with in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense heat of the sun after a frosty night; this, with a sprinkling of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious consequences from slight frost. Tliose who may have various soils, should suit them to the different kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears re- quire a strong loam, but rather the lightest for the Pear. Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Plums, and Nec- tarines, a good deal lighter than for the Apple and Pear ; such fruits as may require peat, bog, or any other extraordinary kinds of earth, will be noticed as we proceed. 215 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. Much may be written relative to the various diseases to which fruit trees are liable, and also to the preven- tion and destruction of tlie various kinds of reptiles and insects, which very frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our garden. The preventive opera- tions are those of the best culture. Fall ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the larvae of bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense frost of our winters, and the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, &c. are beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete destruction effected, by the use of soap- suds, lie, tar, turpentine, sulphur, pepper, soot, decoction of elder, walnut leaves, tobacco, and other bitter and acrid substances; but perhaps the most effectual way of keeping some of the most pernicious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such fruit as may fall from the trees, before the insects have an opportunity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter. Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavour- able situations, they often become diseased ; when this happens, the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees clean, by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do, they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation. Barrenness and disease are generally produced by the bad quaUties of earth and air, by a want of water, or by the inroads of insects. These incidents generally show them- selves in the early part of the year. Leaves and shoots of any colour but the natural green ; curled and ragged leaves ; branches in a decaying state ; shoots groAving from the roots, instead of from the stem or trunk i the stem diseased in its bark, and gum oozing 216 from various parts thereof, are all proofs of the exist- ence of disease. The Peach tree is subject to a disease called the yellows ; and the discoloured leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms Avhich so frequently attack the root ; where these are found, they may be removed by a knife or chisel ; but if it should appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to prevent other trees from being infected. The Pear, and also the Quince, and sometimes other trees, are subject to the fire light ; this malady may be completely checked on its first appearance, by cutting off and immediately burning the injured branch- es. Generally speaking, careful pruning, cleaning the bark all over with a brush, applying soap or tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting good earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy most diseases in fruit trees ; removing them from a bad to a better soil, will, of course, effect this, where it proceeds from a poorness of land ; for the old adage, " remove the cause, and the effect Avill cease," will be here exemplified. To cure the oozing of the gum nothing is more necessary than to cut away the dis- eased parts ot the bark ; and by thus assisting nature in casting out the excrementitious, or noxious juices, a complete cure may be effected. When a tree is affected by mildew, let it be immediately sprinkled with soap-suds, and then be dusted over with sulphur and tobacco dust, or snuff; at the same time, dig around the tree, and examine the soil, and sub-soil ; if it be wet and cankery, it should be taken away, and replaced with good healthy soil, and the ground drain- ed ; if, on the contrary, the ground be dry, give it a plentiful Avatering ; the same remedy may serve as a preventive of the extension of blight, if taken in time. When any canker is observed, the part affected must, at the winter pruning, be cut clean out, and the part AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 217 thus dressed be pared, so that no water be able to lodge in the wound ; when this is done, let a quantity of soot be mixed up with the water, after which, let a little train oil be well worked amongst it, but so that the mixture finally remain stiff; this may be plastered over all the wounds that have been pruned. The application of this mixture keeps out the wet from the wounds, where it would be likely to lodge, and both the soot and oil promote vegetation. When trees are cankery from having a bad sub-soil, it is in vain to apply any remedy till the ground is properly drained, and some fresh soil be mixed with the natural soil, also the tree replanted. When trees are known to be so situated as to be particularly liable to the attacks of insects or disease, they should be attended to at the time of winter pruning, in order to destroy the insects in their larvae state. See page 164. The following compositions have been known to protect fruit trees from the attacks of numerous in- sects, by being used as a wash to the trees immediately after the winter pruning. The constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger mixture of ingredients than others ; but the proportions, as hereafter de- scribed, will not be injurious to any, but will be effectual in the destruction of the larvae of insects. For Apricot, Nectariive, and Peach Trees. — To eight gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper. For Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum Trees. — To four gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of black pepper. For Figs and Vines. — To four gallons of water add half a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a quarter of an ounce of black pepper. 218 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied to the bark of the trees with a suitable brush. The most destructive enemy to our fruits, is the Curculio ; this insect passes the winter in the earth in a chrysalis state, and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will be ready to commence his at- tacks at about the time the blossoms appear on our fruit trees. The eggs are deposited in the Apple, Pear, and all stone fruit, at a very early stage of their growth ; these eggs soon hatch, and small maggots are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop off prematurely, with the little enemy within ; if this fruit be gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs, geese, or other animals, a check may be put to their ravages in succeeding years, but if suffered to remain on the ground, they will supply food to myriads of their destructive race, which may not be so easily extirpated. The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the destruction of which, many experi- ments have been tried. Some apply bandages round the body of the tree, smeared over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females, in their ascent to the tree; but as these tormentors are frequently on the move from November to the end of June, this must be a very tedious, as well as uncertain process. As this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk of the tree, and not more than three or four inches from the surface of the earth, good culture, and a mode- rate use of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingre- dient, is the most likely way to destroy them. The Bark Louse is another pernicious insect ; they resemble blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to be imperceptible ; they often prove fatal to the Apple AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 219 tree, by preventing the circulation of tiie sap. These insects may be conquered by washing the trees with soap-suds, tobacco water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be made of soapy water and lime, thickened to the consistence of cream or paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with a brush to the trunk and limbs of the trees ; this should be done at the latter end of May, or early in June, and the cracks in the bark should be completely covered. The Apple tree Borer is said to deposit its eggs be- neath the surface of the soil, and the v/orras are often to be found in the spring of the year, by digging round the tree, and clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken out with a knife or gouge and destroyed. After the worms are removed, the wounds should be covered over with grafting clay and wood ashes mixed, and the earth then returned to the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayers' mortar early in the spring, around the base of the tree, so as to cover the part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks. Although our limits will not allow of a further de- scription of the various sorts of insects which injure our gardens, and frequently destroy the fruits of our labour, I cannot forbear directing the attention of our citizens to the importance of saving all kinds of ashes If all agriculturists and horticulturists were to ofiFer an inducement to the inhabitants of large cities, to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote for many kinds of insects ; and our citizens would be at a less risk from fire, by having a brick vault on the premises for safe keeping them. In England, a private dwell- ing is not considered complete without an ash-vault, and a good farmer would dispense with his barn, rather than be destitute of an ash-house. I have known farmers to supply the cottagers with as much 220 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, peat as they could burn, on condition of their saving them the ashes ; and there are some that will keep men under pay throughout the year, burning peat for the same purpose ; and any thing that has passed the fire is so valuable, that a chimney sweep will frequent- ly clean chimneys for the sake of the soot, Avhich is conveyed miles into the country, and sold at a price sufficient to reward the collectors, besides paying all expenses ; even the house-keepers' ashes in cities is a marketable article at all times, at from ten to twenty- five cents per bushel, when kept dry and clean, and a guinea a load was formerly the common price in the villages in Berkshire and Hampshire. While on this subject, I would urge the importance of a spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators were to prepare turfs from tanners' bark, peat- earth, coal dust, mixed with clay, cow dung, &c., and get them dried in the summer season, these, by being preserved through the winter, may be burned around fruit Orchards, while the trees are in blossom, and if the fires are properly managed, a smoke may be kept up, by heaping on damp litter every night ; this will prove pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, and the ashes being spread on the ground, will serve as a means for the destruction of others. An Orchard thus managed every year, will need no other manure. The smoking should be effected first on one side of the plantation, and afterwards on the other, or heaps may be prepared in diflferent parts of the Orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may serve, to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I know a gardener in the neighbourhood of New-York, who saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after its having been used as a covering for his Spinach ; and I have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent remedy for securing fruit trees from insects, especially aHd diseases of fruit trees. 221 if some coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The damper the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will create ; and if a little tar, pitch, sul- phur, or other pernicious combustible be sprinkled amongst them, it will be beneficial. This subject appears to me of the utmost importance to the farmer, as well as to the community at large. I, therefore, cannot forbear offering some further observations. It must be acknowledged, that although this country contains an abundance of wood, coal, and peat, as well as almost every other description of fuel, that the poor of our large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold ; and if all the tales of woe could be sounded in the ears of a sympathizing community during our severe winter, I am persuaded it would arouse them to the consideration of a remedy. It is an acknowledged fact, that the poor of Europe are cheaper and better supplied with fuel than those of this country. This arises, in a great measure, from the circumstance of ashes being held in high estimation by agriculturists ; they are consequently a saleable article in their large towns and cities, at a price equal in some instances to half the cost of a winter's fuel. Now I would ask, how it is that ashes are not as valuable to the farmers here, as they are in Europe ? The extreme heat of the summers must certainly en- gender insects in equal if not greater proportions ; and as respects manure, it must be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country, than it is in the densely popu- lated countries of Europe . Perhaps some may answer, that ashes are already used by our cultivators to a considerable extent ; but I would remind such, that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weather, (as in^our city,) they lose their virtue, so that a load may not be worth more than a bushel would be, if 20 222 OBSEEVATIONS ON INSECTS, kept dry and clean. The farmers of Europe consider peat ashes of more value than any others, and I am persuaded that could they be fairly tested by some of our best cultivators, great good may result to the community. If the farmers of England can aflford to keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for the sake of the ashes, it is natural to suppose that the poor of our community may be placed in easier circumstan- ces as respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres of land are to be found in the States of New- York and New- Jersey, and within a few miles of this city, which abound with peat earth ; and the owners of such have already began to explore their treasures of this de- scription. Good peat is now to be had in the city at the low price of eight cents per bushel, or three dollars per chaldron. It burns well in all sorts of stoves and grates, whether made for wood or coal, and also on the hearth ; and if the ashes are not used to any better purpose than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the cheapest fuel known. I am persuaded that this sub- ject is worthy of serious consideration, and if the editors of the different papers would arouse the public attention, so as to 'enlist some of our most active citizens to a consideration of the subject, incalculable good may result to the community at large. If the honorable the Corporation of our city, and others who distribute fuel amongst the poor, gratis, would give them peat instead of wood, it would be much cheaper, and would answer every purpose to the consumers. In such cases twelve bushels may be given in the first winter month to each of the apph- cants, instead of wood, with a strict injunction that they save their ashes in a dry state, in order to their being taken in exchange for a future supply of peat. It could be easily ascertained how much ashes twelve AND DISEASES OF FRHIT TREES. 223 bushels of peat would make, and if a strict attention be paid to the conditions of exchange, it would soon be discovered which of the applicants was most enti- tled to the distributor's bounty. The same sheds which it would be necessary to provide for housing the peat, could be used as a deposit for the ashes. If such sheds be conveniently constructed to hold each a moderate quantity, the first which is emptied of peat may be filled with the first ashes that are returned in exchange for a future supply of fuel, and they could be all used for the same purpose as they become empty. These ashes, when fairly tested, may become a mer- chantable article, as in Europe ; and it is very proba- ble that farmers may be induced to take them in exchange for future supplies of peat ; they could, however, be conveyed into the country at a trifling expense, and would no doubt meet a ready sale. OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. In training and pruning fruit trees, particular atten- tion is required. To supply a tree with a sufficiency of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark and wood, in an uninterrupted suf '^ ~^ision from the root to the extremities of the brancK, pruning, therefore, is useful to remedy any defect, as well as to take off superfluous wood, and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning may be performed at different seasons of the year, according to the kinds of fruit, which will be shown under each head, as we proceed. In the Spring, or Summer pruning, be careful not to destroy the germs of future fruits ; but merely re- 224 OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING, AND inove^all unserviceable sprays. In the winter seasoD., make your selection from the wood shoots of the preceding year ; keep those which appear the most healthy, and cut away those which seem redundant. Beginners had better prefer the Spring, as the bud& will then be a guide for them to go by ; but this busi- ness must not be delayed too late in the season, as some kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned untimely. When the sap rises in Grape Vines, &c. before the wound is healed, bleeding ensues^ and it is not easily stopped. When this happens, sear the^place, and cover it with melted wax, or with warm pitch spread upon a piece of bladder ; or peel off the outside bark to some distance from the place ; and then press into the pores of the wood a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the consistence of putty. Vines will bleed in autumn as well as in spring, though not so copiously at the former season. The best preventive is timely or early pruning in the Spring; and not pruning until the wood is thoroughly ripe in autumn. With respect to the manner in which vines, and some particular kinds of trees should be trained, opinions are at variance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight and direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and others in a serpentine form, &c. If vines be trained on low walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training may be adopted. Horizontal train- ing is that in which from a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizontally on each side. It has been remarked, that in order to be a good trainer of vines, a man must have some forethought, and be capable of making his selection, as the plants shoot. He must predetermine how he shall prune, and where he shall cut at the end of the season ; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to his mind. He has PRUNING FRUIT TEEES AND VINES. 225 this more eflfectually in his power, with respect to the vine, than any other fruit tree, on account of its rapid growth and docility. In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud. Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt to weaken the shoot of next season, and sometimes to prevent its vegetating at all, the buds being very susceptible of injury, on account of the soft and spongy nature of the wood. In the cutting out of old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping direction, and to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to prevent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the old wood be carefully peeled oflf, observing not to injure the sound bark, and clear the trellis of branches of leaves, tendrils, &c. Let the shoots and branches be afterwards regularly laid in, at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots that are ex- pected to bear next season. As to the others, it is not so material how near the j^oung shoots be placed to the old, or even though they sometimes cross them. Choose strands of fresh matting, or pack-thread, to tie with ; and observe to leave sufficient room for the swelling of the shoots and branches next season. By attending to the proper pruning of fruit trees in the winter, every advantage is promoted, and by a judicious management in other respects, wood may not only be obtained but preserved in every part of the tree, and so that it will bear down to the very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and will be equally conducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees are young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a supply of bearing wood in future years, for when this is neglected, and they become naked, it is some time before a supply can be recovered. 20* 226 OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND In shortening a branch, always take care to cut in a direction a little sloping, and so that the slope may be parallel in a contrary way to the nearest bud left. It is requisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be ragged, but clean, and in the operation, be careful that the knife does not slip, so that any other branch be cut or damaged. The general pru- ning of fruit trees is indifferently performed by many persons at any time from autumn to spring, and it may be done so without any great injury to them, provided that mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and the wood is well ripened. Although it may be advan- tageous to prune trees early in the winter, when the wood is well ripened, yet when the wood is green and the buds have not arrived at a mature state, it is re- quisite in such instances to defer pruning until spring, taking care, however, that it is performed before the moving of the sap. The necessity of this arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not ripened in autumn, the sap is then in an active state, and will continue so until the frost, &c. causes it to become stagnant, and if the shoots were shortened whilst the sap was in motion, the buds would be considerably injured, and the tree weakened ; such unripe shoots are also more liable to sujffer by the severity of winter, and when the pruning is deferred until spring, all such parts as may have been affected by the Aveather, can be removed to the extent to which the damage has been sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood in the autumn would be injurious, so it frequently is when it is done during winter, and the more so, ac- cording to the severity of it; because, whenever a cut is made on such green wood, the frost generally affects it, as the sap is not dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able to resist its intenseness. Whatever method is. adopted in training trees, care should be taken to keep PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES 227 the two sides as nearly equal as possible ; this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the fan, or horizontal method. For espalier trees the horizontal method has many advantages over any other ; the small compass in which the trees are obHged to be kept, requires such a direction for the branches, in order to make them fruc- tiferous. And were very high trellises formed, so as to admit of the trees being trained in the fan method, such would be very objectionable, by reason of the shade they would cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the benefit of a warmer temperature, which those less elevated receive, by the effects of which fruitfulness is considerably promoted. As some young gardeners may not know what is meant by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that espaliers are hedges of fruit trees, which are trained up regularly to a frame or trellis of wood work ; they produce large fruit plentifully, without taking up much room, and maybe planted in the Kitchen Garden without much inconvenience to its other products. For espalier fruit trees in the open ground, a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, according to taste or fancy. The implements employed in pruning, and the man- ner of using them, are matters of moment. If the ope- ration is commenced when the tree is young, and judiciously followed up, a good knife, a small saw, and a chisel fixed on a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the branches, are all the tools that are required. A large saw will be occasionally wanted ; but an axe or hatchet should never be employed, as they fracture on the wood, bruise and tear the bark, and disfigure the tree. 228 OBSERVATIONS ON BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are ope- rations that equally depend for their success upon the property that buds possess of shooting roots down- wards and stems upwards ; but in these practices, the roots strike between the bark and wood of the stocky instead of into the earth, and form new layers of wood, instead of subterranean fibres. The success of such practices, however, depends upon other causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings. It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between the scion and the stock, so that when the descending fibres of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of the stock, they may not be liable to sub- sequent separation. No one can have studied the economy of the vegetable kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in contact with each other, BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. To bud trees, let the following method be adopted ; procure a knife which has a thin blade, and a sharp ivory handle ; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the buds can be easily inserted. Have some good strong bass in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. When all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stock transversely, and from the middle of this cut make another downwards, at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in the form of a f ; then take one of your sprigs, and with expedition proceed to take off a bud ; this is effected by entering the knife a little more than half BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 229 an inch below the bud or eye ; force your knife into the wood, drawing it under the bud, and cut the piece off across the shoot; then immediately let that part of the wood which Avas cut off with the bud, be separated from it, which may be readily done with the knife, by placing the point of it between the bark and and wood at one end. and holding the bark in one hand, pull off the woody part with the other, which will readily come from the bark, if the tree from which it was taken be in vigorous condition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the bud remains perfect ; if there is no hole in it, let it be immediately inserted into the stock, observing for the reception of it, to raise with the handle of your knife the bark of the stock downwards on each side from the cross cut, and thrust the bud in between the bark and the wood, ap- plying it as close as possible. As soon as the bud is put in its place, tie it round securely with the bass, beginning a little below the cut, and proceeding up- wards, till you are above the cross cut, taking care to miss the eye of the bud, just that it may be seen through the bandage of the bass. About three weeks or a month after the stocks have been budded, they should be examined, w4ien such as have united will appear fresh and full, and those that have not taken will appear decayed ; in the former case the bandage may be left off, and in the latter case, the stock may be budded in another place, provided the first operation was done in the month of July or early in August, as these are the two most preferable months for budding fruit trees in general. Budding is, however, often attended with success, if done early in September. ScALLOPE Budding is performed by cutting from a small stock, a thin narrow scallope of wood, about an inch in length, and taking from a twig a thin scal- lope of Avood of the same length ; this is instantly 230 OBSERVATIONS ON applied, and fitted perfectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly bound with wet bass matting. This mode may be practised in the spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the month of July. The French practise this mode on Roses. GRAFTING. This business is generally performed in March and April. There are various modes of grafting, but the following are those most generally practised : Cleft Grafting. — This mode of grafting is ge- nerally practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter ; and may be performed in the following manner : — Let the head of the stock be carefully sawed off at a part free from knots, and the top pared smooth ; then with a thin knife split down the stock through the centre, to the depth of about two inches, and insert a wedge to keep it open for the reception of the scion. The scion must be prepared in the form of a wedge, with an eye, if possible, in the upper part, and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion, and of the stock, may both exactly meet. Large stocks require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes four are inserted. When done, tie them firmly to- gether with bass, and then cover the grafted part with well prepared clay, in an oval form, and close it se- curely. Side Grafting. — This mode is sometimes prac- tised on those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are two ways in which it may be performed. 1st. The scion may be prepared in the same manner as for splice grafting, and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping ; the scion being then adjusted as carefully as possible, must be bound on and covered with clay. 2d. The scion being cut BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 231 sloping-, a cross-cut is to be made in the side of the tree, on the top of a perpendicular slit ; the bark of the tree above the cross-cut, must be pared down slanting to the wood, and the bark raised, as in budding ; the scion being then inserted, it must be bound fast, and covered with clay. Splice or Whip Grafting. — ^This mode is often practised on small stocks, and it succeeds best, when the scion and stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should consist of young wood of the former year's growth, may be cut to the length of about four inches. This and the stock are each to be cut sloping, for an inch or more, and tongued. Tongueing consists in cutting a slit in the middle of the slope of the stock downwards, and a corresponding slit in the scion upwards ; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides, if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then to be securely bound with bass matting, and covered with grafting clay, or composition. As soon as the scion and stock are completely united, the bass string may be removed. Saddlk Grafting.— The celebrated Mr. Knight, practises this mode of grafting on very small stocks. The upper part of the stock is prepared in the form of a wedge, by two sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by splitting it upwards, and paring out the middle part on each side to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal size, the adjustment may be made perfect ; but if unequal, one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a string of bass matting, and covered with composition or clay ; but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect union has taken place. Root Grafting. — This operation is often per- formed on grape vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual mode of cleft grafting. It is also 232 ON BUDDIiJG AND GRAFTING. performed on portions or pieces of root, where suitable stocks are scarce. Graftipcg by Approach. — The trees, or shrubs, to be grafted, must be growing very near to those which are to furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each tree, which is thus to be united, must be pared with a long sloping cut of several inches, nearly to its centre ; and the parts of each tree thus prepared, are to be brought together, and finally secured by a band- age of matting, so that the bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then be covered with clay or composition ; and when a complete union has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. - Grafting Clay may be made in the following manner : Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free from litter, cow manure, and good stiflf clay ; add to this, a portion of hair, and work it together in the same manner as masons mix their mortar. It should be well beaten, and incorporated several days before it is required to be used. To MAKE Grafting Composition. — Take equal parts of rosin and bees' wax, and a little tallow; melt these together and mix them, then pour the composi- tion into cold water, and as it hardens, take it out and work it up with the hands in the manner of shoemaker's wax. It may be spread on brown paper, which cut into strips of suitable size ; is quickly ap- plied, and in cool weather it may be warmed by the breath, so as to become adhesive. In preparing the following articles, the object has been to furnish such information as was thought best calculated to entertain, as well as to instruct the reader. Besides the authorities quoted, I have gleaned APPtE. 233 from those inexhaustible treasures to Horticulturists, Loudon's Encyclopaedia of Plants, and that of Garden- ing ; but on account of the brevity necessarily observed throughout this work, it has been found impracticable to give many entire extracts ; suffice it say, that the historical facts are generally collected from these sources. APPLE. PoMMiER. Pyrus mains. The Apple being so closely connected with our wants and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the catalogue of our fruits. The Apple orchard is in truth the vineyard of our country ; and the delicious beverage that can be obtained from some of the varieties of this excellent fruit being calculated to cheer the invalid, as well as to strengthen the healthy, entitles it to high consideration. It is one of our oldest species of fruit, and has become completely naturalized to our soil ; none can be brought to so high a degree of perfection with so little trouble ; and of no other are there so many excellent varieties in general cultiva- tion, calculated for almost every soil, situation and climate, which our country afltbrds. The Apple tree is supposed by some to attain a great age : Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, that attained a thousand years, and were highly prolific ; but Knight considers two hundred years as the ordi- nary duration of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab stock, and planted in a strong tenaceous soil. Speechly mentions a tree in an orchard at Burton-joice, near Nottingham, of about sixty years old, with branches extending from seven to nine yards round the bole, 21 234 APPLE. which, in 1792, produced upwards of two hundred gallons of apples. The Romans had only twenty-two varieties in Pliny's time. There are upwards of fifteen hundred now cultivated in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, under name ; the catalogue of the Linnsean Botanic Garden at Flushing, contains over four hundred ; and one of our enterprising horticul- turists, Mr. Wm. ^oxe, of Burlington, New -Jersey, enumerated one hundred and thirty-three kinds, cultivated in the United States, some years ago. They are usually divided into dessert, baking, and cider fruits ; the first high-flavoured, the second such as fall or become mellow in baking or boiling, and the third austere, and generally fruit of small size. Besides this division, Apples are classed as pippins or seedlings, pearmains or somewhat pear- shaped fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles or white skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, codlings or falling fruits, and some are denominated burknots. The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many sorts by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is by grafting on seedling stocks of two or three years growth, and for dwarfing on stocks of the Quince or Paradise Apple. All the principal varieties are culti- vated as standards, in the orchard, and should be planted from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees, in order that the sun and air may have its due influence in maturing the fruit. Many of the dwarf kinds may be introduced into the Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf standards. An Apple orchard may be planted at any time after the trees are two years old from the graft ; and as trees from young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any time within that period. APRICOT. 235 Old Apple trees may be grafted with superior varieties, by being headed down to standard height 1 in very old subjects, most commonly, the branches only are cut within a foot or two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or cleft manner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the mode of bear- ing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, or short robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, which spring from the younger branches of two or more years' growth, appearing at first at the extremity^ and extending gradually to the side : the same bearing branches and fruit spurs continue many years fruitful. Pruning. — As from the mode of bearing, Apple trees do not admit of shortening in the general bearers, it should only be practised in extraordinary cases. If trees have not the most desirable form when three or four years old, they should be judiciously pruned to promote regular pruning branches. In annual pru- ning, the main branches should not be cut unless in cases of decay ; but all superfluous cross branches and dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers eradi- cated. Espaliers require a Summer and Winter pruning. APRICOT. Abricotler. Prunus Armeniaca* The fruit of the Apricot is next in esteem to the Peach, and as it ripens three or four weeks earlier, should be more generally cultivated. The flowers appear in April, on the shoots of the preceding year, and on spurs of two or more years growth, and the fruit ripens in July and August. The London Horti- cultural Society's catalogue describes fifty-four sorts, 236 APRICOT. and Messrs. Prince have forty-four in their catalogue; besides these, is the Peach Apricot, a large fruit, sup- posed to be a hybrid between a Peach and an Apricot. Our enterprising fellow-citizen, Mr. Wm. Shaw, has succeeded for many years in maturing large quan- tities of this excellent fruit on standards ; \ but they ripen best when trained against close fences. In England some of the varieties are cultivated as standards and espaliers ; they seldom bear much fruit under ten or twelve years; but then the fruit is abundant and of the finest flavour. They are com- monly cultivated as wall trees, in an East or West aspect ; for if they are planted full south, the great heat causes them to be mealy before they are eatable. New varieties are procured from seed, as in the peach, and approved sorts are perpetuated by budding on Plum stocks, &c. The varieties of the Apricot, in general, bear chiefly upon the young shoots of last year, and casually upon small spurs rising on the two or three years old fruit branches. The Moor Park bears chiefly on the last year's shoots, and on close spurs formed on the two year old wood. The bearing shoots emit the blossom buds immediately from the eyes along the sides, and the buds have a round and swelling appearance. Apricot tress may be planted at any time after the head is formed ; some head them down in the nursery bed, and remove them to their destined places when five or six years old. Standards will require only occasional pruning to regulate such branches as may be too numerous, too extended or cross formed, and to remove any casually unfruitful parts and dead wood ; but the regular branches, forming the head of the tree, should not be shortened unlesss necessary. The general culture of the wall Apricots compre- APRIGOT. 237 hends a Summer and Winter course of regulation, by pruning and training. The fan method is generally adopted, but some prefer training horizontally. With young trees some contrive to fill the wall by heading down twice a year. The Winter, or early Spring management, compre- hends a general regulation both of the last year's shoots and the older branches. A general supply of the most regular situated young shoots must be every where retained, for successional bearers the ensuing year. Cut out such branches as are not furnished with competent supplies of young wood, or with fruit spurs, to make room for training a general supply of the most promising branches retained. Generally observe in this pruning to retain one leading shoot at the end of each branch ; either a naturally placed terminal, or one formed by cutting (Avhere a vacancy is to be fur- nished) into a proper leader. Let the shoots retained for bearers be moderately shortened *. reduce strong shoots in the least proportioned — cutting off one-fourth or less of their length ; from weak shoots take away a third, and sometimes a half. This shortening will conduce to the production of a competency of lateral shoots the ensuing Summer, from the lower and mid- dle placed eyes ; whereas without it, the new shoots would proceed mostly from the top, and leave the under part of the principal branches naked, and the lower and middle parts of the tree unfurnished with proper supplies of bearing wood. Never prune below all the blossom buds, except to provide wood, in which case cut nearer to the origin of the branch. As, in these trees, small fruit spurs, an inch or two long, often appear on some of the two or three years' branches furnished with blossom buds, these spurs should gene- rally be retained for bearing. As each tree is pruned, nail it, laying in the branches and shoots from three 21* 238 ALMOND. to six inches distance, straight and close to the fence or wall. The Summer pruning is principally to regulate the young shoots of the same year. In the first place, take oiF close all the irregular foremost shoots, taking care to retain a competent supply of choice side shoots, with a good leader to each parent branch. Continue these mostly at full length all the Summer, regularly trained in, to procure a sufficiency to choose from in the general Winter pruning, for new bearers the next year. If the summer regulation commences early, while the shoots are quite young, and, as it were, herba- ceous, those improper to retain may be detached with the finger and thumb ; but when of firmer growth, they must be removed with the knife. If any very strong shoots rise in any part where the w^ood is de- ficient, they may be topped in June, which will cause them to produce several laterals the same year, eligible for training in, to supply the vacancy. Sometimes the fruit is too much numerous, if not attacked by insects, often growing in clusters ; in which case thin them while in a young green state, leaving the most prominent fruit singly, at three or four inches distance, or from about two to six on the respective shoots, according to their strength. The Apricots so thinned off, and the first principal green fruit, are very fine for tarts. ALMOND. Amandier. Amygdalus. Although Almonds are not much cultivated in this part of our country, they are entitled to notice. The ALMOND. 239 species are fruit trees, or ornamental trees and shrubs, both much esteemed for the gay colour and early ap- pearance of their flowers ; these vary in their colour from the fine blush of the Apple blossom to a snowy whiteness. The chief obvious distinction is in the fruit, which is flatter, with a coriaceous covering, in- stead of the rich pulp of the Peach and Nectarine, opening spontaneously when the kernel is ripe. It is a native of Barbary, China, and most eastern countries. There are twenty-one sorts described in the catalogue of the Linnaen Botanic Garden at Flushing ; some of which are represented as new kinds from France and Italy ', where they are cultivated extensively for their fruit. In France, they have above a dozen species or va- rieties, besides a hybrid, called the Almond Peach. The common and bitter Almond are only to be distin- guished by the taste of the kernels of their fruit, which is the only part used. The tender-shelled is in the greatest esteem, and next, the sweet and Jordan. The bitter cuticle, or skin of Almonds, is taken off" by im- mersion in boiling water. The sweet Almond and other varieties are used as a dessert in a green or imperfectly ripe, and also in a ripe or dried state. They are much used in cookery, con- fectionary, perfumery, and medicine. The Almond is propagated by seed, for varieties, or for stocks ; and by budding on its own, or on Plum stocks, for continuing varieties. The Almond tree bears chiefly on the young wood of the previous year, and in part upon small spurs or minor branches ; it is therefore pruned like the Apricot and Peach, and its culture in other respects is the same. 240 CHERRY. Cerisier, &c. Prunus cerastis. The Cherry of the cultivated varieties is said to have been first introduced into Italy in the year 73, from a town in Pontus,'^ in Asia, called Cerasus, whence its specific name ; and it was introduced into Britain one hundred and twenty years afterwards. The Romans had eight varieties of Cherries, red, black, tender-fleshed, hard-fleshed, small bitter fla- voured, and dwarf sort. There are now upwards of two hundred in cultivation. The French divide their Cherries into griottes, or tender-fleshed ; bigareaux, or heart-fleshed ; and guignes, or small fruits. The fruit of many varieties is somewhat heart-shaped, whence they are called ox heart, white heart, black heart, &c. ; why some sorts are called dukes, is not so obvious. The morello cherry is very different from the other varieties, bearing almost exclusively from the preceding years' wood, and the pulp of the fruit having the consistence and flavour of the fungi called morel ; whence the name. The Chinese Cherry is valuable on account of its bearing an excellent fruit, and producing it abundantly in forcing-houses. Cherries are grafted, or budded on seedlings from Cherry stones, and from seedlings of the red and black mazzard. For dwarfing, they are worked on the morello, or perfumed Cherry ; the latter is preferred in Holland. Cherry trees, in general, produce the fruit upon small spurs or studs, from half an inch to two inches in length, which proceed from the sides and ends of the two year, three year, and older branches, and as new spurs continue shooting from the extreme parts, it is a maxim in pruning both standards and espaliers. CHERRY. 241 not to shorten the bearing branches when there is room for their regular extension. The morello is in some degree an exception, as it bears principally on the shoots of the preceding year, the fruit proceeding immediately from the eyes of shoots ; and bears but casually, and in a small degree, on close spurs formed on the two year old wood, and scarcely ever on wood of the third year, therefore, in pruning, leave a supply of young shoots on all the branches from the origin to the extremity of the tree, for next year's bearers. All kinds of Cherry trees, except the morello, are apt to grow very tall ; to remedy this, and to enable them to form handsome heads, the leading shoot should be cut ofif, when about three years' growth from the bud; after which give only occasional prunin^^, to reform or remove any casual irregularity from cross- placed or very crowded branches, and take away all cankery and decayed wood. Dwarf Cherry trees may be introduced into the Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, &c. When morellosare planted in an orchard^ they may be placed from fifteen to twenty feet apart ; trees of the duke kind may be planted from twenty-five to thirty feet apart ; and the heart-shaped, in general, will require to be from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees. Cherry trees may be removed the first year after the bud is established ; but they will bear removing at any time before they come into bearing, which is about the fifth year. " The gum which exudes from Cherry trees is equal to gum arabic; and Hasselquist relates, that more than one hundred men, during a siege, were kept alive for nearly two months, without any other suste- 242 CHESTNUT. nance than a little of this gum taken sometimes into the mouth, and suffered gradually to dissolve." The wood is hard and tough, and used by the turner and cabinet-maker. CHESTNUT. Chataigner. Castanea. The Chestnut is well known as a large tree, spread- ing its branches finely on every side where it has room, but, planted closely, will shoot up straight to a great height. It is supposed to have been originally from Sardis. It is so common as to be considered a native of France and Italy, and some consider it as naturalized in England ; it is also indigenous in America. The London catalogue contains the names of thirty-two sorts under cultivation. The Chestnut is like the Walnut, both a timber and fruit tree ; some of the oldest trees in the world are of this species. The American Chestnut differs so little from the European, that no specific distinction can be drawn. It is one of the largest trees of the forest, the wood being ex- tremely durable, and in high esteem for posts and rails to construct fences ; and the nuts are very deli- cious. The Castanea pumila, or Chinquapin nut, is a small tree, or rather shrub, growing to the height of thirty feet in the Southern States, but seldom exceed- ing ten in cold latitudes ; the fruit is very sweet and agreeable to eat. There is a variety with striped leaves, which is very ornamental. The most esteemed of the French kinds are called marron. Some excellent fruit-bearing va- rieties are cultivated in England, France, Italy and Spain, as also in other parts of Europe ; these are in- creased by grafting or budding in the usual methods, CRANBERRT. 243 but the plants for coppice wood, or timber, are best raised from nuts. Some varieties ripen their fruit e few days earlier than others, but none of these have been fixed on, or perpetuated by nurserymen, so as to be rendered available by purchasers. The fruit is a desirable nut for autumn and winter, and is eaten roasted, with salt, and sometimes raw ; and in some countries it is not only boiled and roasted, but ground into meal ; and puddings, cakes, and bread, are made from it. CRANBERRY. Canneberge. Oxycocus. This genus of plants is well distinguished from the Vaccinium, or Whortleberry, by the narrow re volute segments of corolla ; and are pretty little trailing ever- green plants, to which a peat soil, and rather a moist situation are absolutely necessary. They are very little changed by culture. The Oxycocus macrocarpus is a red acid fruit, highly valued as a sweetmeat, or for tarts. It is well known that this excellent fruit grows in many parts of our country spontaneously ; and that the mere gathering it, is all that bountiful nature requires at our hands ; but it is well worth cultivating where there are none. This fruit will keep a whole year, if properly preserved in close covered stone jars, and is considered, by many, as superior to the best currant jelly, and may be kept for many months in a raw state without injury. The Oxycocus palustris bears edible berries, which are gathered wild both in England and Scotland, and made into tarts. Lightfoot says ''twenty or thirty pounds worth are sold each market day, for five or six 244 CRANBERRY. weeks together in the town of Langtown, on the bor- ders of Cumberland." Nicol says the American species is more easily cul- tivated than the English, but is inferior to it in flavour. There is reason to believe that the quality of the fruit of each of these species is subject to variations, which have not yet been practically distinguished. Their cultivation is noAV so well understood, that they may both be considered with propriety as inmates of the fruit garden. It is customary in England to prepare beds on the edges of ponds, which are banked up so as to admit of the wet getting underneath them ; bog or peat earth is considered essential for the roots to run in , but it has been discovered that they can be cultivated in damp situations of a garden, with a top dressing of peat or bog earth, and if they are once suited as to soil, the plants will multiply so as to cover the bed in the course of a year or two, by means of their long runners, which take root at different points. From a very small space a very large quantity of Cranberries may be gathered ; and they prove a remarkably re- gular crop, scarcely affected by the state of the weather, and not subject to the attacks of insects. Sir Joseph Banks gives an account in (Hort. Trans. I, 71,) of his success in cultivating this fruit. '' In one year, viz. 1813, from 326 square feet, or a bed about eighteen feet square, three and a half Winchester bushels of berries were produced, which, at five bottles to the gallon, gives one hundred and forty bottles, each suf- ficient for one cranberry pie, from two and a half square feet." 245 CURRANT. Groseiller a grappes. Ribes, This is a genus of well known shrubs, much culti- vated for their fruit. It is a native of the northern parts of Europe, and found in hedges and woods in England; and there are some species indigenous in America. The fruit, being of an agreeable sub-acid taste, is generally relished, both as a dessert, and in pies and tarts ; it is also much used in making wine and is grown to a considerable extent for that purpose in Essex, Kent, and about Pershore, in Worcester- shire, England. There are ten species cultivated in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, at Chiswick, comprising twelve varieties of red, ten of white, five kinds of black, together with champagne, mountain, rock, upright, Pennsylvanian, &c. Any number of varieties of the red and white may be pro- cured from sowing the seeds, but they are generally propagated by cuttings of the last year's wood, which should be of sufficient length to form handsome plants, with a clear stem, ten inches high. They will grow in almost any soil, but prosper best in one loamy and rich. The best flavoured fruit is produced from plants in an open free situation, but they will grow under the shade of walls or trees, and either as low bushes, or trained as espaliers. They bear chiefly on spurs, and on young wood, of from one to three years' growth, and, therefore, in pruning, most of the young wood should be cut to within two or three buds of that where it originated. After the plants are furnished with full heads, they produce many superfluous and irregular shoots every summer, crowding the general bearers, so as to require regulating and curtailing, both in the young growth of the year and old wood. The prin- 22 246 CURRANT. cipal part of the work may be done in winter, or early in the spring ; but a preparatory part should be per- formed in summer, to eradicate suckers, and thin the superfluous shoots of the year, where they are so crowded as to exclude the sun and air from the fruit. In training espaliers and for standards, two branches are laid in a horizontal direction along the bottom of the trellis, perhaps half a foot from the surface of the earth, and the growth from these of all upright shoots, which will admit of being arranged at the distance of five or six inches of each other, is encouraged. Fan standards are sometimes trained with the branches radiating from the crown of the stem. The black Currant, or Ribes nigrum, is common in moist woods in Russia and Siberia ; its culture is simi- lar to that of the red, but as it is less apt to bear on spurs than on young wood, the shoots should not be so much shortened in this as in the other. Currant bushes will require to be planted at different distances, according to the situation and mode of train- ing, &c. When planted in beds, borders, or squares, they should be six feet apart, but if trained as espa- liers, they will require to be eight feet apart. Many people dislike the flavour of black Currants, they are, therefore, not much used in the kitchen or dessert, and seldom in wine making. They make a jelly or jam, in estimation as a gargle for inflammatory sore throats. '' In Russia and Siberia, wine is made of the berries alone, or fermented with honey, and with or without spirits. In Siberia they make a drink of the leaves; these tincture common spirits so as to resemble brandy, and a few of them dried and mixed with black tea, answer all the purposes of the green material." — (Loudon.) All kinds of Currants may be forced by placing them FIG. 247 in any forcing department in January or February ; they will produce ripe fruit in April and May. FIG. FiGUiER. Ficus carica. There are many species of the Fig, which are all natives of warm climates. In some parts of Asia, and in the South of Europe, they are always grown as standards; and the fruit, green and dried, forms an important part of the food of the inhabitants. The London Horticultural catalogue contains the names of seventy-five sorts ; and Messrs. Princo, of Flushing, have upwards of forty in their collection, some of which are select sorts from France and Italy. It is cultivated in England as a fruit tree, and, in warm situations, will ripen its fruit in the open air. In Sussex, on the sea-coast, it ripens its fruit on stand- ards. Some of the best in England, are at Arundel Castle ; and there is a Fig orchard of one hundred trees at Tarring, near Worthing. Those at Arundel are planted six or eight feet apart, and from a single stem allowed to continue bmnching conical heads, pruning chiefly irregular and redundant growths, and cutting out decayed or injured wood. The Fig tree may be propagated from seed, cuttings, layers, suckers, roots, and by grafting ; the most ge- nerally approved method is by layers or cuttings, which come into bearing the second, and sometimes the first year. No tree is more robust or more prolific, even plants in pots or tubs, kept in a temperature adap- ted for the Orange tree, will fruit freely, and ripen two crops a year, and by being taken good care of through the winter, will go on growing and ripening fruit without intermission. 248 FILBERT AND HAZLENUT: When tlie Fig is planted in a garden, a good loamy soil should be provided ; and it may be trained to close fences, or trellises, in sheltered situations. At the ap- proach of winter they must be protected ; those trained to close fences may be secured through the winter, by a covering of matting ; and such as may be in open situations should be liberated from the trellis, and laid down close to the ground, and covered three or four inches Avith earth ; or trenches may be formed of that depth, sufficient to contain the branches, which should Le fastened down with hooked pegs, without cramping thejr. ; such of the strong central branches as will not lend, may be enveloped in litter. They should be pruned before they are laid down in November, and on being raised again in April, they may be trained as before. Figs may be cultivated in private gardens as easilv as the vine. FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. NOISETIER AVELINIER. Corylus. The Filbert, in many varieties, and also the com- mon Hazlenut, grow spontaneously in the w^oods of Britain, and some few varieties are indigenous in this country. The kinds of Filberts generally cultivated, are tbe wiiite, red, cob, clustered, and frizzled ; of each of which there are many varieties. As this shrub is so easily cultivated, it is a matter of astonishment that the nuts from this genus of plants are so scarce in our markets. In diffierent parts of England there are Fil- bert orchards. In the Filbert grounds about Maid- stone, in Kent, it is a prevailing practice to cultivate Hops, standard Apples, and Cherries, among the Filberts; wiien these come into a bearing state, the GOOSEBERRY. 249 Hops are taken up and transplanted elsewhere, and the fruit trees only suffered to remain. The spare ground is then planted with Gooseberries^ Currants, &c. The red Filbert is allowed to have a finer flavour than the white. The cob-nut is large, with a thick shell, but the kernel is sweet, and of considerable size. The Barcelona is a good large nut, with a thin shell. The crossford is very sweet, kernels well, and the tree is a great bearer. All the different kinds may be grown as dwarf standards ; or they will bear very well if planted in clumps; but as they produce an abundance of suckers, these should be parted off frequently, and planted in a nursery bed for stocks ; as the bearing plants v,i\\ cease to produce fruit in any quantity, if the suckers are allowed to form a thick bush. They may be propa- gated by seed, by suckers, by layers, or by grafting in the spring upon seedling or sucker stocks. The Filbert bears principally upon the sides of the upper young branches, and from small shoots which proceed from the bases of side branches cut off the preceding year. The leading shoot is every year to be shortened, and every shoot that is left to produce fruit should be clipped ; which prevents the tree from being exhausted in making wood at the end of the branch. — Such branches as may have borne fruit, must be cut out every year, in order to promote the growth of a supply of young fruit-bearing branches. GOOSEBERRY. Groseiller. Ribes grossularia, uva crispa^ etc. The Gooseberry is a native of several parts of Europe, and is indigenous in America, as far north as 22* 250 GOOSEBERRY. 68. It is cultivated in greater perfection in England than in any other part of the world. In Spain and Italy, this fruit is scarcely known. In France it is neglected. In Lancashire, England, and some parts of the adjoining counties, almost every cottager culti- vates the Gooseberry, with a view to prizes given at v/hatare called Gooseberry Prize Meetings ; of these, there is annually published an account, with the names and weight of the successful sorts, in what is called the Manchester Gooseberry Book. The prizes vary from ten shillings to five and ten pounds sterling. There are meetings held in the spring to " make up," as the term is, the sorts, the persons, and the condi- tions of exhibition j and in August to weigh and taste the fruit, and determine the prizes. In Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Gar- den, 722 varieties are described ; from which the following are selected, as in most repute for size, flavour, and other good qualities : REDS. British Crown. — This variety is noted as being a fine flavoured fruit, especially for tarts. 33 prizes had been awarded for it in 1829 ; the largest berry weighing 18 pennyweights and 10 grains. OiiAaiPAGNE. — The fruit of this variety is held in great esteem for its delicious flavour ; the berry is of medium size, somewhat oblong and hairy. Capper's Top Sawyer. — This is a late fruit, of oblong shape, and hairy near the base. 171 prizes were obtained for this, in 1828 and 9; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. Crown Bob, Melling's. — This variety won 85 prizes in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. 12 grains. It is a late fruit, of oblong shape bright red colour, and hairy. GOOSEBERRY. 2&1 Huntsman.— This variety, which originated with Mr. Bratherton, took 216 prizes in 1828 and 9 ; the heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts. Lancashire Lad, Hartshorn's. — 156 prizes were awarded for this variety in two years; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 11 grains. Marquis of Stafford, Knight's.— This much esteemed late variety, is hairy, of medium size, bright red colour, and delicious flavour. Prince Regent, Boardman's. — This variety won 141 prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11 grains. Roaring Lion, Farmer's.— In 1828, 349 prizes were awarded for this variety ; and in 1829 it won 453 prizes ; the largest berry weighing 29 dwts. ; since which time, berries have been known to weigh over one ounce and a half each. Sir John Cotgrave, Bratherton's. — This variety took 343 prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 25 dwts. 2 grains. YELLOWS. Bunker's Hill, Capper's.— 210 prizes were awarded for this variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 2 grains. Britannia. — This variety is noted for its earliness and delicious flavour. The fruit is of medium size, weighing about 18 dwts. Cottage Girl, Heaps's.— This variety won 133 prizes in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 19 dwts. 14 grains. Gunner, Hardcastle's.— 192 prizes were given for this variety in 1828 ; and in 1829, 181 prizes were awarded ; the heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts. 5 grains ; fruit rather late. 252 GOOSEBERRY. RocKWOOD, Prophet's. — The fruit of this va- riety is very early; it is of a roundish oblong shape, and slightly hairy. It won 303 prizes in two years ; the largest berry weighing 21 dwts, 3 grains. Sovereign, Bratherton's. — 202 prizes were ob- tained for this variety in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. Viper, Gordon's. — This is an early smooth fruit, and won 87 prizes in two years; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 5 grains. GREENS. Angler, Collier's. — 365 prizes were awarded for this variety in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 1 grain. Early Green, Hairy. — This variety is described in the Pomological Magazine as a very early fruit ; it is round, hairy, of deep green colour, and excellent flavour, but not la^rge. Favourite, Bates's. — 235 prizes were given for this variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 20 grains. Greenwood, Berry's. — This variety obtained 204 prizes in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 4 grains. It is a deliciously flavoured fruit. Independent, Bigg's, — 121 prizes were given for this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 16 dwts. 4 grains. It is an early rich fruit. Ocean, Wainman's. — This variety won 278 prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 8 grains. The fruit is oblonjj and smooth. Troubler, Moore's. — 160 prizes were taken for this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 13 grains. GOOSEBERRY. 253 WHITES. Bonny Lass, Capper's. — This variety won 167 prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 21 dwts. 10 grains. Cheshire Lass, Saunders's. — This is one of the earUest varieties, and makes excellent tarts. The fruit is large, oblong, downy, and fine flavoured. Governess, Bratheuton's. — 124 prizes were awarded for this variety in two years ; the largest berry Aveighing 24 dwts. Lady Delamebe, Wylds's. — This variety took 253 prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weigh- ing 22 dwts. 6 grains. Nailer, Blomiley's. — 134 prizes were given for this variety in two seasons ; the largest berry weigh- ing 18 dwts. 12 grains. Queen Caroline. — This variety won 142 prizes in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 1 grain. It is a richly flavoured fruit. Wellington's Glory. — 173 prizes were obtained in two seasons for this variety ; the largest berry weighing 20 dwts. 4 grains. White Eagle. — This variety gained 476 prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 23 dwts, 12 grains. White Lion, Chelworth's.— 102 prizes were given for this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 22 grains. The fruit is late, slightly hairy, and excellent for tarts. Whitesmith, Woodward's. — This is a smalb early berry, weighing about 14 dwts The skin is downy, and the fruit is fully equal to any gooseberry of its colour. The Gooseberry may be propagated by all the modes applicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is 254 GOOSEBERRY. usually adopted for continuing varieties, and that by seeds for procuring them. The cuttings should be taken from promising shoots just before the leaves begin to fall in the autumn ; the greatest part of the buds ^should be taken off, leaving only two or three buds on the top. Cut them at such a length as the strength and ripeness of the wood will bear ; and plant them in good pulverized soil. On the approach of winter, lay some moss or litter around them ; and, by being well cultivated, they will be fit to transplant when they are a year old. When bushes are pro- cured from the public nurseries, let the general supply be in such kinds as will ripen in succession. They may be planted in the kitchen garden, in single rows, along the sides of the walks or paths, or in compart- ments by themselves, in rows from six to eight feet apart from row to row, and five or six feet apart in the rows ; or in small gardens, they may be trained to a single tall stem, and tied to a stake : thiS; though six or eight feet high, occasions scarcely any shade, and it does not occupy much room, nor exclude air, while, at the same time, the stem becomes close hung with berries, and makes a pleasant appearance in that state. Persons of taste may train them on arched trellises, which, if judiciously managed, the ground around them may be more easily cultivated ; the fruit may be kept from being splashed with rain, and may be easily gathered when wanted, or preserved by shading with mats, &c. Those who may have a choice of soil and site, should fix on a good, rich, loamy earth, and plant some of the choice kinds in a northern and eastern aspect, near the fence, to come late in succession. The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the shoots of the preceding year, and on shoots two or three years old, but also on spurs or snags arising from GOOSEBERRY. 255 the older branches along the sides ; but the former afford the largest fruit. The shoots retained for bear- ers should therefore be left at full length, or nearly so; the first pruning should be done before the buds swell, so as not to endanger their being rubbed off in the operation. Cut out all superfluous cross shoots, and prune long ramblers and low stragglers to some well placed lateral or eye ; retain a sufficiency of the young well situated laterals and terminals, to form succes- sional bearers. In cutting out superfluous and de- cayed wood, be careful to retain a leading shoot at the end of a principal branch. The superfluous young laterals on the good main branches, instead of being taken off clean, may be cut into little stubs of one or two eyes, which will send out fruit buds and spurs. Some persons not pruning the Gooseberry bush on right principles, cause it to shoot crowdedly, full of young wood in summer, from which the fruit is always small, and does not ripen freely with full flavour ; on which account it is an important point in pruning, to keep the middle of the head open and clear, and to let the occasional shortening of the shoots be sparing and moderate. Between the bearing branches keep a re- gulated distance of at least six inches at the extre- mities, which will render them fertile bearers of good fruit. The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire, are particular in preparing a very rich soil, and they water occasionally with liquor which drains from dunghills ; and there are some, who, not content with watering at the root and over the top, place a small saucer of water under each Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are left on a bush ; this is technically called suckling. — There are others that ring some of the branches ; this is done by cutting out small circles of bark round them, 256 GRAPE. and by pinching off a great part of the young wood, the strength may be thrown to the fruit. Unripe Gooseberries may be preserved in bottles against winter : some, after filling the bottles in a dry state, stand them in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to heat them gradually through without cracking them ; the berries will keep green a whole year, by being closely corked and sealed, as soon as cold. The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes, placed in pits, or in the peach house or vinery. " Hay plants in pots in November, removes to the peach house in January, and has ripe fruit in the end of April, which he sends to table growing on the plants." — (Hort, Trans. 4, 415.) GRAPE. Vi(i?fE. Viiis, vinifera et vidfina. The Grape Vine is described by Loudon as a trailing deciduous hardy shrub, with a twisted irregular stem, and long flexible branches, decumbent, like those of the bramble, or supporting themselves when near other trees, by means of tendrils, like the pea. The leaves are large, lobed, entire, or serrated and downy, or smooth, green in summer, but when mature, those of varieties in which the predominating colour is red, constantly change to, or are tinged with some shade of that colour; and those of white, green, or yellow grapes, as constantly change to a yellow, and are never in the least tinged either Avith purple, red, or scarlet. The breadth of the leaves varies from five to seven or ten inches, and the length of the foot stalks from four to eight inches. The flowers are produced on the shoots of the same year, which, shoots, generally ORAPE^ 257 proceed from those of the year preceding : they are in the form of a raceme, of a greenish white colour, and fragrant odour, appearing in the open air in June ; and the fruit, which is of the berry kind, attains such ma- turity as the season and situation admit, by the middle -or end of September. The berry, or grape, is generally globular, but often ovate, oval, oblong, or finger- shaped ; the colours green, red, yellow, amber, and black, or a variegation of two or more of these colours. The skin is smooth, the'pulp and juice of a dulcet, poignant, elevated, generous flavour. Every berry ought to enclose five small heart, or pear-shaped stones ; though, as some generally fail, they have seldom more than three, and some varieties, as they attain a certain age, as the Ascalon, or sultana raisin, none. The weight of a beriy depends not only on its size, but on the thickness of its skin and texture of the flesh, the lightest being the thin-skinned and juicy sorts, as the sweet water or muscadine ; and what are considered as large berried of these varieties, will weigh from five to seven penny-weights, and measure from one to two-thirds of an inch in girth. A good sized bunch of the same sorts may weigh from two to six pounds ; but bunches have been grown of the Syrian grape, in Syria, weighing forty pounds, and in Eng- land weighing from ten to nineteen pounds, A single Vine in a large pot, or grown as a dwarf standard in the manner practised in the vineyards in the north of France, ordinarily produces from three to nine bunch- es : but by superior management in gardens in Eng- land, the number of bunches is prodigiously increased, and one plant, that of the red Hamburgh sort, in the vinery of the royal gardens at Hampton Court, has produced two thousand two hundred bunches, avera- ging one pound each, or in all nearly a ton. That at 23 258 GRAPE. Valentine, in Essex, has produced two thousand bunches of nearly the same average weight. The age to which the Vine will attain in warm climates is so great as not to be known. It is sup- posed to be equal, or even to surpass that of the Oak. Pliny speaks of a Vine which had existed six hundred years ; and Bose says, there are Vines in Burgundy upwards of four hundred years of age. In Italy there are vineyards which have been in a flourishing state for upwards of three centuries, and Miller tells us, that a vineyard a hundred years old is reckoned young. The extent of the branches of the Vine, in certain situations and circumstances, is com- mensurate with its produce and age. In the edges of Italy, and woods of America, they are found overtop- ping the highest Elm and Poplar trees ; and in Eng- land one plant trained against a row of houses in Northallerton (lately dead) covered a space, in 1585, of one hundred and thirty -seven square yards ; it was then above one hundred years old. That at Hampton Court, nearly of the same age, occupies above one hundred and sixteen square yards ; and that at Valen- tine, in Essex, above one hundred and forty-seven square yards. The size to which the trunk, or stem, sometimes attains in foreign countries, is so great, as to have afforded planks fifteen inches broad, furniture, and statues ; and the Northallerton Vine, above-men- tioned, in 1785, measured four feet in circumference near the ground, and one branch of the Hampton Court Vine measures one hundred and fourteen feet in length. Vine timber is of great durability. The varieties of the Grape in countries where it is grown for the wine press, are as numerous as the vineyards ; for as these for the most part diflfer in soil, aspect, elevation, or otherwise, and as the Vine is GRAPE. 259 greatly the child of local circumstances, its habits soon become adapted to those in which it is placed. When it is considered that a vineyard once planted will last two or three centuries, it Avill readily be conceived that the nature of a variety may be totally changed during only a part of that time. The varieties mostly in esteem for wine making, are small berries, and bunches with an austere taste. The Burgundy, as modified by different soils and situations, may be con- sidered the most general vineyard Grape of France, from Champagne or Marne, to Marseilles or Bordeaux. The best Avine in Italy and Spain, is also made from Grapes of this description ; but in both countries many of the larger berried sorts are grown on account of their producing more liquor. The sweet wines, as the Malmsey, Madeira, Constantia, Tokay, &c. are made from sweet-berried Grapes allowed to remain on the plants till over-ripe. That wine is the strongest, and has most flavour, in which both the skins and stones are bruised and fermented. The same thing is the case in making cider ; but in both processes bruis- ing the stones or kernels is often neglected. The vine was formerly extensively cultivated in Britain for the wine press, but its culture is now confined to the garden as a dessert fruit ; and they have in that country not only the best varieties, but they grow the fruit to a larger size, and of a higher flavour, than is done any where else in the world ; this is owing to the perfection of their artificial climates, and the great attention paid to soil and sub-soil, and other points of culture. The fruit is produced in some vineries during every month of the year ; and in the London markets (generally) it is to be had in the highest degree of perfection from March to January. The Vine will thrive in any soil that has a dry bot- tom ; and in such as are rich and deep it will grow 269- GRAPE, luxuriantly, and produce abundance of large fruit ; iit siiallow, dry, chalky, or gravelly soils, it will produce less fruit, but of better flavour. Speedily recommends dung reduced to a black mould, the dust and dirt of roads, the ofFal of animals, or butchers' manure, horn shavings, old rags, shavings of leather, bone dust, dung of deer and sheep, human excrement, when duly meliorated by time, a winter's frost, and repeatedly turning over. Abercrombie says that dung out of a cow-house, perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the- Vine ; he recommends drainings from dunghills to be used over the ground once in ten or fourteen days from the time the buds rise, till the fruit is set, and that fresh horse dung be spread over the ground in autumn as a manure, and also to protect the roots from the in- clemency of the weather; some, however, disapprove of manuring high, as being calculated to produce woodi rather than fniit. The general mode of propagating the Vine is by cuttings, either a foot or more long, with a portion of two year old wood, or short, with only one bud, or one bud and a half joint, &c. Vines are to be had at the nurseries, propagated either from layers, cuttings^ or eyes ; but plants raised from cuttings are generally preferred ; many are of opinion that it is a matter of indifference from which class the choice is made, pro- vided the plants are well rooted, and in good health, and the wood ripe. A mode of very general utility, i& to select the plants in the nursery a year before want- ed, and to order them to be potted in very large pots.. Varieties without end are raised from seed, and it is thought that by propagating from the seeds of succes- sive generations, some sorts may ultimately be pro- cured, better adapted for ripening their fruit in the open air than now known. A seedling Vine, carefully treated, will show blossoms in its fourth or fifth year ; GRAPE. 261 say that it produces a fair specimen of its fruit in the sixth year, then a new generation may be obtained so often; but seeds ought never to be sown, except for experiment. William Robert Prince, Esq., in his Treatise on the Vine, published 1830, enumerates about five hundred and fifty varieties in cultivation, in the vineyard at- tached to the Linnaean Botanic Garden at Flushing, including about ninety American native Grapes ; but no sufficient evidence has as yet been exhibited of vineyards flourishing here equal to what they do in Europe. Mr. Loubat has attempted to establish a vineyard on Long Island, which he abandoned, after six years' arduous exertion. The'/ollowing have been found to succeed best in the vicinity of New York : the Sweetwater, the Chasselas, the Muscadine, the White Tokay, the Black Hamburgh, the Blue Cortiga, the Miller Burgundy, the Austrian Muscadel, the Messlier, the Morilon, the Black Prince, Blanc, and some excellent seedling sorts from the imported Lisbon Grapes. To plant a vinery for a full crop of good Grapes of various flavours, take a white and red Mus- cat, a white and red, or black Muscadine, a white and red Frontignac, a black or red Muscadel, a white Raisin Grape, a white and red Hamburgh, a StilwelPs, and red Sweetwaters, a white and red Nice, a black Damascus, a red Syracuse, and a black Constantia. The above list contains some of the most esteemed table Grapes, of all colours and flavours, which will ripen in succession. The most preferable kinds of our native Grapes, for private gardens, are the ' Catawba,* the York, (Pa.) 'Black Madeira,' the Schuylkill, Muscadel, and the Isabella. To these may be added the Scuppernong, or Hickman Grape, which is said to be larger than the Fox Grape, of a delightful perfume, and, when ripe, it is of a yellowish white colour. 23* ^62 GliAV^. Previous to planting Vines, care should be takers that the ground be well pulverized and prepared for some distance around, for the roots to spread. The soil should be deep and dry, and some rich compost, or vegetable mould, should be used around the roots in filling in ; a handful or two of wet ashes to each plant is recommended by Mr. Loubat as beneficial ; and he recommends the planting to be done in the month of March, or early in April. There are various methods adopted in training and pruning the Vine ; and it appears impossible to lay down rules to suit every cultivator. The Vine having, like other trees, a tendency to produce its most vigo- rous shoots at the extremities of the branches, and particularly so at those which are situated highest, it generally happens, when it is trained high, that the greater portion of the fruit is borne near the top ; and it has been observed, that the fruit produced on the vigorous shoots, which naturally grow at the extre- mities of the long branches, is generally more abun- dant, and of finer quality, than that produced on the short lateral ones, from which circumstance, high training seems to be the best calculated for private gardens. In some parts of Italy, Vines are cultivated together with Mulberry trees, and are allowed to mingle and hang in festoons ; thus silk and wine are produced on the same spot ; and it is considered that when Vines are allowed to grow over trees, on the sides of a house, or on bowers, or extended on tall poles, without much trimming, they will produce more fruit, and are not so liable to mildew. Dr. G. W. Chapman, of New York, having paid some attention to the cultivation of na- tive Grapes, observes, that the Vine, in its natural state, seldom or ever throws out bearing shoots until GRAPE. 263 it reaches the top of the tree on which it ascends, when the branches take a horizontal or descending position. From this fact, he considers horizontal training preferable to that in the fan shape. From the experiments he has made, he has found that the shoots coming from those parts of the branches bent downwards, are more productive than from tJiose as- cending ; he considers deep digging around the Vine, even to the destruction of some of the extending roots, as calculated to promote the growth of more fruit and less wood, than if allowed to spread near the surface ; and he disapproves stopping the shoots before the fruit until July. Mr. William Wilson, of Clermont, leaves his Vines their whole length at the time of trimming in October. In November they are laid on the ground at full length, fastened down with pins, and covered lightly with earth ; in this state they lie all the winter. In April, as soon as the weather will permit, they are uncovered, and left lying on the ground ten or twelve days; by the first of May, the Vines are trained to stakes or poles of the length often feet and upwards ; and by the middle of June, the stakes are entirely covered by new shoots of the Vine, and with plenty of fruit, which ripens in September. Mr. W. says, that until he pursued his present course, his fruit was fre- quently blasted and mildewed, but that he has now Vines twenty or thirty feet long, which run up the fruit trees adjoining ; otliers. being carried up eight or ten feet, are stretched horizontally. It is seldom he gathers fruit within three or four feet of the ground, and he has never any blasted or infected with mildew ; he keeps the ground cultivated by frequent hoeing and raking ; but he says he has used no manure for ten years or more. Edward H. Bonsall, Esq., has a vineyard of Ame- 264 GRAPE. rican Grapes at GermantowDj Pa., in a high state of cultivation. In page 331 of Prince's Treatise on the Vine, is a letter to the author, containing some valua- ble information, from which the following is extracted as appropriate to our subject : Mr. Bonsall's vineyard is situated between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, four miles from the former, and eight from the latter, at an elevation of 300 feet above their level, have an aspect facing S. S. E., with a substratum of light isinglass soil, and seems well suited to the purpose. He says, ^' from my experience, both on my premises and at other places, it is my opinion that we should reject almost all the foreign varieties, especially where our object in cultivating them is to make wine." He has upwards of thirty variety of American Vines under cultivation; he re- commends preparing the ground by ploughing with two ploughs with strong teams, one immediately be- hind the other, in the same furrow, each of them set deep ; and after the ploughing is completed, to be harrowed thoroughly. Then in the direction the rows are intended to be planted, parallel furrows are run across the field, at the distance of eight feet from each other; these are afterwards crossed at right angles, five feet asunder. In the opening, at the intersection of these furrows, cuttings from nine to twelve inches long are planted, and arranged with a view to the Vines being, when grown, at distances of four by seven feet from each other ; to this end, he frequently plants two cuttings in a place, some of which are used to fill up with, in case of failures. He says, that in 1829 he planted in nursery beds from two to three thousand cuttings as late as the middle of April to the middle of May, with better success than at any previous time. " In this case, the slips should be kept in a cool damp place, where vegetation may be held in check. To GRAPE. 265 insure their freshness, sprinkle them occasionally Avith water. Previous to planting, cut them a proper length, and place them, with their lower ends three or four inches in water, in a tub above ground, where they may soak three or four days. At this season the tem- perature will be likely to be such as will spur vegeta- tion at once into healthy and vigorous action. The fall, or early in the spring, is preferable for rooted plants. In the autumn of the first year, after the frost has killed the unripe part of the young shoots, they should be pruned down to the mature firm wood, and then with a hoe hilled over with the surrounding soil, which will completely protect them through the win- ter. If left without protection the first winter, many of them will perish. '^ Mr. Bonsall says his mode of training, as far as he is aware of it, is entirely peculiar to himself, which he describes as follows : "I take chestnut posts, the thick- ness of large fence rails, seven feet in length ; these I plant along the rows, at distances of ten feet from each other, and at such a depth as to leave five feet above the surface of the earth; then taking three nails to each post, and driving them to within half an inch of their heads, the first two and a half feet from the ground, a second midway between that and the top, and the third near the top, I attach No. 11 iron wire (one degree soft is best) firmly to one of the nails in the end post, pass on to the next, and stretching it straight and tight, give it one turn round a nail in the same line as the one to which it was first attached. Having in this manner extended it along the three courses, the whole length of the roAV, my trellis is formed. I have had a portion of my vineyard fitted up in this way for three years, and experience has confirmed the superior fitness of the plan. It is not its least recommendation, that it possesses in a degree 266 GRAPL. the character of labour-saving machinery. A -very important and extensive labour-making portion of the operations in the vineyard during the summer, is the attention required by the growing shoots to keep them properly trained up. They grow and extend them- selves so rapidly, that were the strips of the treUis are lath, or where poles are used to support Vines, unless very closely watched, they fall down in every direc- tion, in a very unsightly and injurious manner. Here the wire being small, the tendrils or claspers eagerly and firmly attach themselves to it, and thus work for themselves, in probably two-thirds of the instances where the attention of the vigneron would otherwise be required. There is a free access aflforded to the sun and air, and no hold for the wind to strain the frame,' ' &c. Mr. Bonsall says further, ''I shall not enter into minute description of my manner of pruning, but may just say, that after the vines have attained a full ca- pacity for production, (say five years from the cutting,) my view is to prepare them for bearing an average of fifty clusters to each, leaving several shoots of from three to five joints on a vine for this purpose. When fresh pruned, they will not be more than four feet high, at their greatest age." • Although the man of taste and capacity for improv- ing on the improvements of others may have gleaned ideas from the above extracts , sufficient to enable him to cultivate the vine in his own garden, it may be necessary to direct the reader's attention to the differ- ent methods of cultivating this excellent fruit in varied situations. A Vine may be trained horizontally under the coping of a close fence or wall, to a great distance, and the borders in an east, south-east, and southern aspect of large gardens, may be furnished a variety of sorts, which will ripen in great perfection, without encum- GRAPE. 267 l)ering the borders ; or the plants may be trained low, like currant bushes, in which case, three or more shoots, eighteen inches or two feet in length, may diverge from the stem near the ground, to supply young wood annually for bearing. The summer prun- ing consists in removing shoots which have no fruit, or are not required for the succeeding season ; in topping fruit-bearing shoots, and also those for suc- ceeding years, when inconveniently long and strag- gling. For as by this mode, the shoots destined to bear, are all cut into three or four eyes at the winter pruning, no inconvenience arises from their throwing out laterals near the extremities,, which stopping will generally cause them to do. In training Vines as standards, the single stem at bottom is not allowed to exceed six or eight inches in height, and from this two or three shoots are trained, or tied to a single stake of three or four feet in length. These shoots bear each two or three bunches, within a foot or eighteen inches of the ground, and they are annually succeeded by others which spring from their base, that is, from the crow^n or top of the dwarf main stem. This is the mode practised in the north of France and in Germany ; in the south of France and Italy, the base or main stem is often higher, and furnished with side shoots, in order to afford a great supply of bearing wood, which is tied to one or more poles of greater height. The summer pruning in this case, is nearly the same as in the last- In the winter pruning, the wood that has borne is cut out, and the new wood shortened, in cold situations, to three or four eyes, and in warmer places to six or eight eyes. Abercrombie's methods of pruning established Vines, admit of much diversity, as the plants are in diflferent situations. Without reckoning the cutting down of young or weak plants alternately to the lowermost 268 GRAPE. summer shoots, which is but a temporary course, three different systems of pruning have their advocates. In the first method, one perpendicular leader is trained from the stem, at the side of which, to the right and left, the ramifications spring. When the plant is established, the immediate bearers or shoots of the growing season, and the mother bearers, or shoots of the last year's growth, are thus managed. Soon after the growing season has commenced, such rising shoots as either are in fruit and fit to be retained, or are eligibly placed for mother bearers next season, are laid in, either horizontally, or with a slight diagonal rise, at something less than a foot distance, measuring from one bearing shoot to the next : the rising shoots, in- tended to form young wood, should be taken as near the origin of the branch as a good one offers, to allow of cutting away, beyond the adopted lateral, a greater quantity of the branch, as it becomes old wood ; the new spring laterals, not wanted for one of these two objects, are pinched off. The treatment of those retained during the rest of the summer, thus differs : As the shoots in bearing extend in growth, they are kept stopped about two eyes beyond the fruit ; the connate shoots, cultivated merely to enlarge the pro- vision of wood, are [divested of embryo branches, if they show any, and trained at full length as they advance during the summer, until they reach the allotted bounds ; were they stopped in the middle of their growth, it would cause them to throw out troublesome laterals ; in the winter pruning, there will thus be a great choice of mother bearers. That nearest the origin of the former mother bearer, or most commodiously placed, is retained, and the other or others on the same branch are cut away ; the rest of the branch is also taken off, so that the old wood may terminate with the adopted lateral ; the adopted shoot ORAPE. 269 IS then shortened to two, three, four, or a greater number of eyes, according to its place on the Vine, its own strength, or the strength of the Vine. The lower shoots are pruned-in the shortest, in order to keep the means of always supplying young wood at the bottom of the Vine. The second method is to head down the natural leader, so as to cause it to throw out two, three, or more principal shoots ; these are trained as leading branches; and in the winter pruning are not reduced, unless to shape them to the limits of the trellis, or unless the plant appears too weak to sustain them at length. Laterals from these are cultivated about twelve inches apart, as mother bearers ; those in fruit are stopped in summer, and after the fall of the leaf, are cut into one or two eyes. From the appearance of the mother bearers, thus shortened, this has been called spur-bearing. The third method seems to flow from taking the second plan as a foundation, in having more than one aspiring leader, and from joining the superstructure of the first system immediately to this, in reserving well placed shoots to come in as bearing wood. Thus, supposing a stem which has been headed, to send up four vigorous competing leaders, two are suffered to bear fruit, and two are divested of such buds as break into clusters, and trained to the length often, twelve, or fifteen feet, or more, for mother bearers next season. In the winter pruning, the leaders which have borne a crop, are cut down to within two eyes of the stool, or less, according to the strength of the plant, while the reserved shoots lose no more of their tops than is necessary to adjust them to the trellis. Nicol observes, that '* most of the summer pruning of Vines may be performed with the fingers, without 24 270 GRAFE. a knife, the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed off, and those to be shortened, being brittle, are readily pinched asunder," After selecting the'shoots to be trained for the production of a crop next season, and others necessary for filling the trellis from the bottom, which shoots should be generally laid in, at the dis- tance of a foot or fifteen inches from each other, rub off all the others that have no clusters, and shorten those that have, at one joint above the uppermost cluster. For this purpose, go over the plants every three or four days, till all the shoots in fruit have shown their clusters, at the same time rubbing off any water shoots that may rise from the wood. Train in the shoots to be retained, as they advance. If there be an under trellis, on which to train the summer shoots, they may, when six or eight feet in length, or when the Grapes are swelling, be let down to it, that the fruit may enjoy the full air and light, as it advances towards maturity. Such of these shoots as issue from the bottom, and are to be shortened in the winter pruning to a few eyes, merely for the pro- duction of wood to fill the trellis, may be stopped when they have grown to the length of four or five feet. Others that are intended to be cut down to about two yards, and which issue at different heights, may be stopped when they have run three yards, or ten feet, less or more, according to their strength. And those intended to cut at, or near to the top of the trellis, should be trained a yard or two down the back, or a trellis may be placed so as to form an arbour ; or they may be placed to run right or left a few feet on the uppermost wire. The stubs or shoots on which the clusters are placed, will probably push agaim after being stopped, if the plants be vigorous. If so, stop them again and again ; GRAPE. 271 but after the fruit are half grown, they will seldom spring. Observe to divest the shoots, in training, of all laterals as they appear, except the uppermost on each, in order to provide against accidents, as hinted at above, in training the new planted Vines. When these shoots are stopped, as directed above, they Avill push again. Allow the lateral that pushes, to run a few joints, and then shorten it back to one; and so on, as it pushes, until it stops entirely. When the proper shoots get ripened nearly to the top, the whole may be cut back to the originally shortened part, or to one joint above it, if there be reason to fear that the up- permost bud of the proper shoot will start. Divest the plants of all damped and decayed leaves as they appear, as such will sometimes occur in con- tinued hazy weather, and be particularly cautious not to injure the leaf that accompanies the bunch, for if that is iost, the fruit will be of little value. " Every one of penetration and discernment,'' Nicol obserres, "will admit the utility of thinning the berries on bunches of grapes, in order that they may have room to swell fully ; and further, that of supporting the shoulders of such clusters of the large growing kinds as hang loosely, and require to be suspended to the trellis or branches, in order to prevent the bad effects of damp or mouldiness in very moist seasons. Of these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy, Royal Musca- dine, Raisin, St. Peter's Syrian, Tokay, and others, should have their shoulders suspended to the trellis, or to the branches, by strands of fresh matting, when the berries are about the size of garden peas. At the same time, the clusters should be regularly thinned out with narrow -pointed scissors, to the extent of from a fourth to a third part of the berries. The other close growing kinds, as the Frontignacs, Muscats, &c.j 272 GRAPE. should likewise be moderately thinned, observing to thin out the small seedless berries only of the Musca- dine, Sweet Water, and flame-coloured Tokay. In this manner^ handsome bunches and full swelled berries may be obtained ; but more so, if the clusters or over-burdened plants be also moderately thinned away. Indeed, cutting off the clusters, to a certain extent, of plants over-loaded, and pushing weak wood, is the only means by which to cause them to produce shoots fit to bear fruit next year ; and this should be duly attended to, so long as the future welfare of the plants is a matter of importance." The preceding observations may be considered as falling ^short of what may be expected on the cultiva- tion of so important a fruit as the Grape ; but it is introduced into this work only as a garden fruit. The modes of training in vineyards and vineries, are alike suited to the garden. Low training may be practised in borders or hedge rows, in large gardens ; and high training in sheltered situations, on high trellises or arbours. By proper management, the Vine may be ele- vated to the middle story of a house by a single stem, and afterwards trained to a great height, according to the taste of the proprietor. As the Vine is often trained near buildings, an awning may be conveniently formed over the tops, so as to admit of fumigating the Vine with smoke from tobacco, &c., as may be necessary in the summer season j or a sort of movable tent may be made of light boards, and cheap glazed linen, or an old sail, &c. capable of covering the Vine while a smoke is created underneath ; this will effectually destroy such insects as may annoy the Vine, and may prevent mildew and othei: diseases. 273 MULBERRY. MuRiER. Morus. There are several species of the Morus or Mulberry . The white kind is commonly cultivated for its leaves to feed silkworms, though in some parts of Spain, and in Persia, they are said to prefer the Black Mulberry. In China, it appears that both sorts are grown for the same purpose. The most esteemed variety of the white is one grown in Italy, and especially in Lom- bardy, with vigorous shoots, and much larger leaves than the other. The Morus multicaulis is cultivated in many parts of France, and is by some preferred to all other varieties. It is said that a less quantity of foHage from this variety will satisfy the silkworms. The late Andrew Parmentier, Esq., was the means of introducing several choice varieties from that country ; and our nurserymen generally, have, of late years, turned their attention to the cultivation of such as are best adapted for silkworms, which are sold at mode- rate prices. In France, the white Mulberry is grown as pollard Elms are in England. In Lombardy, it is grown in low marshy ground. In China, it is also grown in moist loamy soil, and both there and in the East Indies, as low bushes, and the plantations rooted up and re- newed every three or four years. In many parts, when the leaves are wanted for the worms, they are stripped off the young shoots, which are left naked on the tree ; in other places, the shoots are cut off, whidi is not so injurious to the tree, while the points of the shoots, as well as the leaves, are eaten by the worms. The plants are sometimes raised from seed, and one ounce of seed will produce 5000 trees, if sown in rich loamy soil, the latter end of April, or early in May ; but the young plants will require protection the first 24* 274 MULBERRr. winter; they are more commonly propagated by layings and cuttings, put down in the spring. The Italian variety is frequently grafted on seedling stocks of the common sort, in order to preserve it from de- generating. In the East-Indies, the plants are raised from cuttings, three or four of wiiich are placed to- gether, where they are finally to remain. But Mulberry trees are valuable for their fruit; and ill England the black and red kinds are in great esteem, and much cultivated. The fruit of the white Mulberry is white, and less acid than that of the black species. The black is naturally a stronger tree than the other ; the fruit is of a dark blackish red, and of an agreeable aromatic and acid flavour. The red Mulberry has black shoots, rougher leaves than the black Mulberry, and a dark reddish fruit, longer than the common sort, and of a very pleasant taste. The fruit of the yellow Mulberry is very sweet and whole- some, but not much eaten, excepting by birds ; the timber, however, is valuable, from its abounding in a slightly glutinous milk of a sulphureous colour, and is known in Europe under the name of fustic wood, for dying a yellow colour. In Russia, the fruit of the Morus tartarica is eaten Iresh, conserved, or dried ; a wine and a spirit are also made from them, but the berries are said to be of an insipid taste. All the species of Morus are remark- able for putting out their leaves late, so that when they appear, gardeners may safely set out their green- house plants, taking it for granted that all danger from frost is over ; from this circumstance, plantations of Mulberry trees may be made in this country, in the spring of the year with greater safety. The Mulberry produces its fruit chiefly on little shoots of the same year, which arise on last year's wood, and on spurs from the two year old wood ; in MIJLBERRY. 275 both stages, mostly at the ends of the shoots and branches. In pruning, thin out irregular crossing branches, but never shorten the young wood, on which the fruit is produced. If any of the dwarfish kinds are cultivated as espaliers for their fruits, cut so as to bring in a partial succession of new wood every year, and a complete succession once in two years, taking the old barren wood out as may be necessary. As the blossom buds cannot be readily distinguished from others in the winter, the best period for pruning is when the blossoms first become visible in spring. There is another genus of plants known as the Paper Mulberry, which is very ornamentaU called Brousso- netia papyrifera ; though a low tree, it has vigorous shoots, furnished with two large leaves ; the fruit which is small, is surrounded with long purpled hairs, changing to a black purple colour when ripe, and full of juice. ^' In China and Japan, it is cultivated for the sake of the young shoots, from the bark of which the inhabitants of the eastern countries make paper. The bark being separated from the wood, is steeped in water, the former making the whitest and best paper. The bark is next slowly boiled, then washed, and afterwards put upon a wooden table, and beat into a pulp. This pulp being put in water, separates like grains of meal. An infusion of rice, and the root of manhiot is next added to it. From the liquor so pre- pared, the sheets of paper are poured out one by one, and when pressed, the operation is finished." '' The juice of this tree is sufficiently tenacious to be used in China as a glue, in gilding either leather or paper. The finest and whitest cloth worn by the principal people at Otaheite, and in the Sandwich Islands, is made of the bark of this tree. The cloth of the Bread Fruit tree is inferior in whiteness and softness, and worn chiefly by the common people." 276 NECTARINE. Pecher a Fruit LissE, ou Brognons. Amygdahs nectarina. The varieties of this fruit resemble the Peach in every respect, except that the skin is perfectly smooth, of a waxen appearance, and the flesh generally more firm ; although of the same genus as the Peach, which is so plentiful in this country, the fruit of the Necta- rine is quite a rarity, and seldom appears in our mar- kets. There are seventy-two varieties cultivated in the Horticultural Garden of London ; and Nicol says, that ''no varieties of the Nectarine are at present known to have originated in North America, except the Boston." It is generally allowed that their failure is occa- sioned by the attacks of insects. The most efficacious method that I have heard of, for securing any thing like a crop of Nectarines, is to fumigate the trees in the evening, when the air is calm and serene, at the season when the fruit is ready to set, see page 215 to 222. Tobacco is the most effectual antidote for in- sects ; but a friend of mine collected a quantity of salt hay that had been used as a covering for his spinach, the preceding winter ; with this he created a smoke, first on one side of his plantation, and afterwards on the other, by which means he obtained a good supply of fruit. Our enterprising horticulturist, Mr. Wm. Shaw, has succeeded in gathering fine fruit, by pur- suing the English plan, namely, in training his trees against a close fence ; and it has been discovered by others, that the Nectarine, like the Grape Vine, will yield best in sheltered situations. That eminent hor- ticulturist, Mr. David Thomas, observes, that "a vast quantity of fruit is naturally destroyed by a worm^ NECTAEINE. 277 which causes the Plum, Apricotj and Nectarine, pre- maturely to drop from the tree. To prevent this loss, let the tree, after the blossoms fall, be frequently shaken by a cord connected with a swinging door, or with a working pump-handle, &c. ; or let the bugs be jarred from the tree and killed. Or keep geese or pigs enough in the fruit garden to devour all the damaged fruit as it falls. We know that this last method is infallible." As some may object to shaking or jarring fruit trees, for fear of disturbing the fruit, such may be reminded, that if the blossoms set more fruit than can be sup- ported, it will not come to full perfection, and the trees may be injured in their future bearing ; for these rea- sons, when fruit sets too thick, it should be thinned in an early stage of its growth. The Nectarine is generally budded on stocks of the same species, or on Peach or Plum, two or three years old. Knight recommends growing Almond stocks for the finer kinds of Nectarines and Apricots, as likely to prevent the mildew, and as being allied to the Peach. Dubreuil recommends a Plum stock for clayey soils, and the Almond for such as are light, chalky, or sandy. The same opinion is held by the Montreul gardeners. The Flemish nurserymen graft both the Peach and Nectarine on the Myrabella Plum, a very small cherry - shaped fruit. The budding may be performed in July or August, in the side of the stock, which will, if properly ma- naged, shoot the following spring, and attain the length of three or four feet in a summer's growth. After the budded trees have ripened the first year's shoots, they may either be planted where they are to remain, or retained in the nursery for two, three, or four years, till in a bearing state. Whether the plants be removed into the orchard at a year old, or remain 278 ORANGt:, LEMON, &C. in the nursery, the first shoots from the bud must be headed down in a judicious manner, in order to pro- mote the most desirable form. Jn annual pruning, thin out superfluous branches and dry wood, and shorten the bearing shoots. Nectarines may be trained to a close fence, or wall, in private gardens ; in which case, such plants should be chosen as are budded low. See Apricot, page 235. ORANGE, LEMON, &c. Oranger, Citronier, &c. Citrus. Notwithstanding this fruit, and also the Lemon, Lime, &c., is attainable at all seasons of the year, by supplies from the Southern States, the West Indies, and the south of Europe, yet the plants are entitled to our notice on account of their being so easily cultiva- ted, and from their affording an ornament in exhibiting their fruit the whole of the year. The Orange, as well as others of the same genus, is generally cultivated as a green-house plant, but may be kept in a light room throughout our severe winters, provided the temperature is not suffered to be below the freezing point, 32. Its recommendations are, handsome evergreen, shining, tree-like forms; most odoriferous flowers, and brilliant, fragrant, delicious fruits, which succeed each other perpetually, and are not unfrequently seen on the tree at the same time, in two or three stages of growth. A work has recently been published at Paris, edited by Messrs. Risso and Poiteau, which contains engravings and descriptions of one hundred and sixty-nine varieties. They are arranged as sweet Oranges, of which they describe 42 sorts ; bitter and sour Oranges, 32 sorts ; Bergamots, ORANGE, LE3I0N, &C. 279 o sorts ; Limes, 8 sorts ; Shaddocks, 6 sorts ; Lumes^ 12 sorts ; Lemons, 46 sorts ; Citrons, 17 sorts. All the species of Citrus endure the open air at Nice, Genoa, and Naples ; but at Florence and Milan, and often at Rome, they require protection during the winter, and are generally planted in conservatories and sheds. In England, these trees have been culti- vated since 1629 ; they are generally planted in con- servatories. Loudon says, that in the south of De- vonshire, and particularly at Saltcombe, may be seen, in a few gardens. Orange trees that have withstood the winter in the open air upwards of a hundred years. The fruit is as large and fine as any from Portugal. Trees raised from seed, and inoculated on the spot, are found to bear the cold better than trees imported. At Nuneham, near Oxford, are some fine old trees, planted under a movable case, sheltered by a north wall. In summer, the case is removed, and the ground turfed over, so that the whole resembles a native Orange grove. The author, being a native of Abingdon, which is within three miles of the Earl of Harcourt's estate at Nuneham, has had frequent opportunities of tasting the fruit, which he believes to be equal to that of warmer climates. At Woodhall, near Hamilton, trees of all the species of Citrus are trained against the back walls of forcing-houses, and produce large crops of fruit. Any of the varieties of the Orange, Lemon, Lime, Shaddock, Citron, &c. may be grafted or budded on stocks of the common Orange or Lemon ; but the seeds of Shaddocks and Citrons produce the strongest stocks ; and on these may be engrafted such kinds as may be needed for a conservatory. The most suitable time for budding is July and August; but this opera- tion may be performed at any time when the sap is in motion. The directions for the management of green- house plants, page 189, apply to this family of plants, 280 PEACH. to which I refer my readers. A friend of mine, who is a native of Rouen, in Normandy, informs me, that a Mr. Valee, of that city, succeeds in clearing about twelve thousand francs per annum from the flowers of -Orange trees, which are distilled for essences, &c. PEACH. Pecher. Amygdalus Persica. It is generally considered that the Peach is of Per- sian origin. In Media, it is deemed unwholesome; hut when planted in Egypt, becomes pulpy, delicious, and salubrious. It has been cultivated, time imme- morial, in most parts of Asia ; when it was introduced into Greece, is uncertain. The best Peaches in Eu- rope are supposed to be grown in Italy on, standards. The list of Peaches in the London Catalogue, con- tains two hundred and twenty -four names, fifty of which are denominated American Peaches. Several attempts have been made to class the varieties of Peaches and Nectarines by the leaf and flower, as well as the fruit. Mr. Robertson, a nurseryman at Kil- kenny, has founded his arrangement on the glands of the leaves ; and Mr. George Lindley, of London, has, in a peculiarly distinct manner, arranged no fewer than one hundred and fifty-five sorts of Peaches and Nectarines in well-defined divisions and sections. There are various instances on record (Hort. Trans. Vol. I, p. 103,) of both fruits growing on the same tree, even on the same branch ; and one case has occurred of a single fruit partaking of the nature of both. The French consider them as one fruit, ar- ranging them in four divisions ; the Peches, or free ston« Peaches ; the Peches lisses, or free-stone Necta- PEACH. 281 lines, or free-stone Peaches ; the Pavies, or cling-stone Peaches ; and the Brognons, or Nectarines, or cHng- stone smooth Peaches. Although this fruit will thrive in any sweet, pulve- rized soil that is properly prepared, a rich sandy loam is the most suitable. Next to the selection and pre- paration of a suitable soil, a choice of good healthy trees is of the utmost importance. The seed for stocks should be selected from the fruit of vigorous-growing young, or middle-aged healthy trees ; and the buds should be taken from some of the choicest fruit-bearing trees that can be found. Let the stocks be fairly tesied before they are budded, and if any infection exist in the stocks, or in the vicinity of where the choice of buds may fall, reject them, if you wish to rear a healthful progeny ; as more depends on these particular points than many are aware of. In this country, the Peach is generally budded on stocks of its own kind ; but in England it is often budded on damask Plum stocks, and some of the more delicate sorts on Apricot stocks, or old Apricot trees cut down ; or on seedling Peaches, Almonds, or Nec- tarines. See article Nectarine, page 276. Cobbett says, '^ there are thousands of Peach trees in England and France that are fifty years old, and that are still in vigorous fruitfulness." He attributes the ''swift decay of the Peach tree here to their being grafted on stocks of their kind." Care should be taken to keep the trees clear of in- sects, by washing, fumigation, &c. ; see article, page 215. A celebrated horticulturist, Mr. David Thomas, very justly remarks, in page 29 of the fifth volume of the New York Repository, that '' could the insect Curculio species be satisfied with three-fourths of all the fruit that set on our trees, we should be great 25 382 PEACH. gainers by keeping such a fellow in our employment ; for the fruit would be larger, and far more delicious. But we cannot restrain him within reasonable bounds, and we must be content to thin it on the branches by our thumbs and fingers. This is an important opera- tion ; without it, several varieties of these fruits are not fit for the table ; and it is remarkable, that if the supernumeraries are removed, even so late as not visibly to affect the size of the remainder, still their flavour will be greatly improved. Last season, our grosse mignon Peach tree was overloaded, and the fruit comparatively insipid ; yet after much the greater part had dropped in the due course of ripening, we found the gleanings to be really fine." As these, and similar points, are too little attended to, I prefer giving entire extracts from the writings of eminent horticulturists, to which I would strenuously invite the attention of my readers, in every instance. All the varieties of the Peach and Nectarine produce the fruit upon the young wood of a year old, the blos- som buds rising immediately from the eyes of the shoots. The same shoots seldom bear after the first year, except on some casual small spurs on the two years' wood, which is not to be counted upon. Hence the trees are to be pruned as bearing entirely on the shoots of the preceding year, and a full supply of re- gular grown shoots must be retained for successional bearers. Cut out the redundant shoots, and all de- cayed and dead wood, and reduce some of the former bearers, cutting the most naked quite away. A Peach Orchard may be planted at any time after the bud is established, until the trees are three or four years old, which may be placed from fifteen to twenty feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees. The dwarf kinds may be introduced into the PEAR. 283 kitchen garden, and trained against fences, as directed for the Apricot, or as espaliers, or dwarf standardSo PEAR. PoiRiER. Pyrus. The Pear tree, in its wild state, is thorny, with up- right branches, tending to the pyramidal form, in which it differs materially from the Apple tree. The twigs, or sprays, hang down ; the leaves are elliptical, obtuse, serrate; the flowers in terminating, villose corymbs, produced from wood of the preceding year, or from buds gradually formed on the several years' growth, on the extremities of very short protruding shoots, technically called spurs. It is found in a wild state in England, and abundantly in France and Ger- many, as well as in other parts of Europe, not except- ing Russia, as far north as lat. 51. It grows in almost any soil. The cultivated tree differs from the Apple, not only in having a tendency to the pyramidal form, but also in being more apt to send out tap roots ; in being, as a seedling plant, longer (generally from fif- teen to eighteen years) of coming into bearing ; and when on its own root, or grafted on a wild Pear stock, of being much longer lived. In a dry soil, it will exist for centuries, and still keep its health, productiveness? and vigour. There are fewer good sorts of Pears, in proportion to the number of current varieties, than Apples. The Romans had thirty -six varieties in Pliny's time ; there are now several hundreds in the French and British nurseries ; the London Horticul- tural Catalogue contains the names of six hundred and twenty-two. Professor Van Mons, of Brussels, and M. Duquessie, of Mons, fruited about eight thousand 284 PEAR. seedling Pears, from which they obtained nearly eight hundred sorts worth cultivating, (Neil's Hort. Jour.) The varieties are divided by the French into different classes of fruits, which are designated as Beurrees, Crevers, Poiree, &c. Criterion of a good Pear. — Dessert Pears are characterized by a sugary aromatic juice, with the pulp soft and sub-liquid, or melting, as in the Beurrees, or butter Pears ; or of a firm and crisp consistence, or breaking, as in the winter Bergamots. Kitchen Pears should be of a large size, with the flesh firm, neither breaking nor melting, and rather austere than sweet. Perry Pears may be either large or small ; but the more austere the taste, the better will be the liquor ; excellent perry is made from the wild Pear. Pear trees are raised from seed taken from the best sorts, for the purpose of obtaining new varieties, or for producing Pear stocks. In raising Pears for stocks, the wild Pear is preferred in Europe, as being calcu- lated to produce plants more hardy and durable than the cultivated sorts ; and for dwarfing and precocity, the Quince is preferred. The Pear is a much handsomer upright growing tree than the Apple ; more durable, and its wood hard and valuable for the turner and millwright; but its blossoms being white, are less showy than those of the Apple. A Pear Orchard may be planted at any time after the trees are two years' old from the graft ; and as trees from young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any time within that period. They may be planted at from twenty to thirty -five feet distance from each other, according to the nature of the tree. The dwarf varieties may be planted in the kitchen garden, and trained either as espahers or dwarf standards. Pear trees will require but littl» PLUM. 285 pruning after the heads are once formed ; in doing which, the branches should be permitted to extend on all sides freely. Several years may elapse before any cross-placed, very irregular, or crowded branches, require pruning; yet there are some kinds whose form of growth resembles the Apple ; such will need frequent pruning. ''The Pear tree," Mr. Phail says, " does not produce blossoms on the former year's wood," as several other sorts of trees do. Its blossom buds are formed upon spurs growing out of wood over one year old, and, consequently, projecting spurs all over the tree must be left for that purpose," In some pears, Knight observes, '' the fruit grows only on the inside of those branches which are exposed to the sun and air; in others, it occupies every part of the tree," Withering says, that '' the French make perry, or poire, from the fermented juice of the Pear, which is little inferior to wine ; and that even the bad eating kinds, pared and dried in the oven, will keep several years with or without sugar." PLUM. Pbunier. Prunus. The Plum tree rises fifteen feet in height, branching into a moderately spreading head, the leaves are ovate, serrated, and on short petioles ; petals white. The natural colour of the fruit is generally considered to be black; but the varieties in cultivation are of yellow, red, blue, and green colours, and of different forms and flavours. There areseveral good sorts grow wild in the hedges of Britain, and also in America, but its original country is supposed to be Asia; and according to Pliny, it was taken from Svria into 25*' 286 TLim. Greece, and from thence into Italy. There are many varieties cultivated in France ; and in the London Horticultural Garden there are two hundred and ninety-eight sorts kept under name. The green Gage is considered the best dessert Plum, and the Wine-sour for sweetmeats ; but the Damson is the best baking Plum. The Plum is said to succeed best in a lofty exposure, and may yield well in the mountainous parts of the United States; it yields well near Albany, but the fruit is by no means plentiful in the vicinity of the city of New York. Like the Nectarine, it is subject to the attacks of insects. A correspondent, signed D. T., to the editor of the New York Farmer, page 60 of the third volume, remarks, that '' it has long been observed that Plum trees grooving in fre- quented lanes, or barn-yards, were generally fruitful, while those in secluded situations, as in gardens, were more rarely productive." The late Dr. Tilton has shown that the treading of live stock round the trees, made it not only more difficult for the worm to pene- trate the ground, but that his escape from the fallen fruit was rendered precarious by the approach of swine, eager to convey his habitation and him in a different direction. It is also stated that " the Curculio is a timid animal ; that the passing of live stock round the trees alarms him ; and we know that rubbing of swine and cattle, or any sudden jar, causes him instantly to djop to the ground. In accordance with these facts, some have kept their hogs among their Plum trees ; and a friend lately told me, that in consequence, his Plum trees had borne double during the last twelve years. This plan is much to be recommended among large trees ; but well-grown and well-^ed hogs become wanton, and I have several small trees greatly injured by their teeth PLUM. 2 St and by their rubbing. Neither will their rooting make amends for the trampling of the ground near small trees in wet weather; I have, therefore, determined to discharge these gentry during summer, and chiefly to trust the management of my fruit garden to the geese. Last season, I was much pleased with the activity of these birds ; scarcely a fallen Plum escaped them, which they swallow without difficulty, and the worm is every moment in danger." '* Many trees stand in gardens, however, where neither swine nor geese can be admitted ; and in such cases, I would suggest the trial of a plan by which I destroyed hundreds of these insects. Two large sheets made, of cheap factory cotton, were laid slightly to over-lap with the tree at the centre. A stroke of the hand for a small tree, or of a mallet for a large one, causes the Curculio instantly to drop on the sheet. The dark -brown colour of the insects contrasts with the Avhite cloth, and it may at once be discovered, and easily destroyed. Though it may seem inanimate, it will almost imperceptibly slide under the dead blos- soms that fall with it, and it then requires care to detect it. This process is expeditiously performed by five persons, two to each sheet, and one to strike the tree. I have strong hopes from this experiment ; and to begin with the dropping of the blossoms, and to visit the trees two or three times a day, for several weeks, would probably prevent any serious injury to the crop, and reduce these insects to a scanty rem- nant." New varieties of the Plum are produced from seed ;. and the old kinds are generally propagated by budding on stocks of free-growing Plums, in pre- ference to grafting, because Plum trees are very apt to gum wherever large wounds are made in them. AH the sorts produce their fruit on small natural spurs ising at the ends and along the sides of the bearing: 288 QUINCE, shoots of one, two, or three years' growth. In most sorts, new fruit branches are tw^o years old before the spurs bear. The same branches and spurs continue fruitful, in proportion to the time which they take to come into bearing. After the formation of the head is begun, it takes from two to six years before the different sorts come into bearing. Standards must be allowed to expand in free growth, occasionally pruning long ramblers and irregular cross branches. In annual pruning, thin crowded parts ; cut aw^ay worn out bearers, and all decayed and cankery wood. The Plum may be cultivated in small gardens, trained as espaliers, or to a close fence, like the Apricot, &c. The tree is of further use than for its fruit as a dessert, &c.; the bark dyes yellow; the wood is used by turners ; and the dried fruit, or prune, is formed into electuaries and gentle purgatives. Prunes were originally brought from Damascus, whence their name. Cobbett attri- butes the scarcity of Plums in New York to neglect. In his American Gardener, paragraph 320, he asks, 'Miow is it that we see so few Plums in America, when the markets are supplied with cart-loads in such a chilly, shady, and blighty country as England ?" aUINCE. Coign AssiER Cydonia. ^ The Quince is of low growth, much branched, and generally crooked and distorted. The leaves are roundish or ovate, entire, above dusky green, under- neath whitish, on short petioles. The flowers are large, white, or pale red, and appear in May and June ; the fruit, a pome, varying in shape in the different varieties, globular, oblong, or ovate ; it has a peculiar and rather disagreeable smell, and austere taste. The auiNCE. 289 fruit takes its name from being a native of the an- cient town of Cydon, in the Island of Crete ; some suppose it to be a corruption of Malus cotonea, by which the Latins designated the fruit. It is used as a marmalade for flavouring apple pies, and making an excellent sweetmeat ; and it has the advantage over many other fruits for keeping, if properly managed. Of the several sorts,';the following are in greatest es- teem : 1. The oblong, or pear Quince,with oblong ovate leaves, and an oblong fruit lengthened at the base. 2. The apple Quince, with ovate leaves, and a rounder fruit. 3. The Portugal Quince, the fruit of which is more juicy and less harsh than the preceding, and therefore the most valuable. It is rather a shy bearer, but is highly esteemed, as the pulp has the property of assuming a fine purple tint in the course of being prepared as a marmalade. 4. The mild or eatable Quince, being less austere and astringent than the others. The Quince produces the finest fruit when planted in a soft moist soil, and rather shady, or at least shel- tered situation. It is generally propagated by layers, and also by cuttings, and approved sorts may be per- petuated by grafting. In propagating for stocks, nothing more is necessary than removing the lower shoots from the layer, so as to preserve a clear stem as high as the graft ; but for fruit-bearing trees, it is necessary to train the stem to a rod, till it has attained four or five feet in height, and can support itself upright. When planted in an orchard, the trees may be placed ten or twelve feet apart. The time of plant- ing, the mode of bearing, and all the other particulars of culture, are the same as for the Apple and Fear. The chief pruning they require, is to keep them free from suckers, and cut out decaying wood. 290 RASPBERRY, &c. Framboisieb, Rubus, etc. There are several species of the Rubus found wild in various parts of Asia, Europe, and America, some of which have upright stems, others prostrate ; the American Stone Bramble, and also the common Black- berry, Dewberry, Cloudberry, &c. are of this family. The Rubus idaeus, or common Raspberry, grows spontaneously in the province of New Brunswick, and in various parts of the United States, but most of the cultivated varieties are supposed to have originated in England. Loudon describes the true Raspberry as ha- ving stems which are suffructicose, upright, rising to the height of several feet, and are biennial in duration ; but the root is perennial, producing suckers which ripen and drop their leaves one year,and resume their foliage, produce blossom shoots, flower, and fruit, and die the next. The leaves are quinate-pinnate ; the flowers come in panicles from the extremity of the present year's shoots ; they are white, appear in May and June, and the fruit ripens about a fortnight afterwards. The fruit is grateful to most palates, as nature pre- sents it, but sugar improves the flavour ; accordingly, it is much esteemed w^hen made into sweetmeats, and for jams, tarts, and sauces. It is fragrant, sub -acid, and cooling ; allays heat and thirst. It is much used in distilling ; '• Raspberry syrup is next to the Straw- berry, in dissolving the tartar of the teeth ; and as, like that fruit, it does not undergo the acetous fermen- tation in the stomach, it is recommended to gouty and rheumatic patients." Nicol enumerates twenty-three species and varieties of the cultivated Raspberry, and twenty-one of the Rubus ronce, or Bramble ; of the latter, is included the American red and black Raspberry, and the Long RASP9ERRV, &C. 291 Island and Virginian Raspberry. The English va- rieties are, early Small white ; Large white ; Large red ; most Large red Antwerp ; Large yellow Ant- werp ; Cane orjsmooth-stalked ; Twice-bearing white ; Twice-bearing red ; Smooth Cane, twice-bearing ', Woodward's Raspberry. Prince's Catalogue contains twenty-seven names, amo ngst which are, Brentford red ; Brentford white ; Flesh-coloured ; Barnet red, fine ; Pennsylvania ; Cretan red; Prolific red; Canada purple rose flowering, &c. The varieties can be per- petuated by young sucker shoots, rising plenteously from the root in spring and summer ; when these have completed one season's growth, they are proper to detach with roots for planting, either in the autumn of the same year, or the next spring, in March or early in April. These new plants will bear some fruit the first year, and furnish a succession of strong bottom shoots for full bearing the second season. New va- rieties are raised from seed, and they come into bearing the second year. Raspberry beds are in their prime about the third and fourth year ; and if well managed, continue in perfection five or six years, after which they are apt to decline in growth, and the fruit to become small, so that a successive plantation should be provided in time. Select new plants from vigorous stools in fuH perfection as to bearing. Be careful to favour the twice bearers with a good melloAV soil, in a sheltered situation, in order that the second crop may come to perfection. When Raspberries are cultivated on a large scale, it is best to plant them in beds by themselves, in rows from three to five feet apart, according to the kinds. In small gardens they may be planted in detached stools, or in single rows, in different parts of the gar- den, from the most sunny to the most shady aspect, 292 STRAWBERRY. for early and late fruit of improved growth and flavour. It is requisite to cut out the dead stems early in the spring, and to thin and regulate the successional young shoots ; at the same time, the shoots retained should be pruned at the top, below the weak bending part, and some rotten dung worked in around the rooti of the plants. Keep them clear of weeds during the summer, by hoeing between the rows ; at the same time eradicate all superfluous suckers, but be careful to retain enough for stock in succeeding years. STRAWBERRY. Fraisier. Fragaria, This is a genus of fruit bearing herbaceous plants, of which there are few in the vegetable kingdom that can equal the Strawberry in wholesomeness and ex- cellence. The fruit is supposed to receive its name from the ancient practice of laying straw between the rows, which keeps the ground moist and the fruit clean. They are natives of temperate, or cold cli- mates, as of Europe and America. The fruit, though termed a berry, is, in correct botanical language, a fleshy receptacle, studded with seeds. It is univer- sally grateful alone, or with sugar, cream, or wine, and has the property, so valuable for acid stomachs, of not undergoing the acetous fermentation. Phy- sicians concur in placing Strawberries in their small catalogue of pleasant remedies ; as having properties which render them, in most conditions of the animal frame,positively salutary; ''they dissolve the tartareous incrustations of the teeth ; they promote perspiration. Persons afflicted with the gout, have found relief from using them very largely ; so have patients in cases of STRAWBERRY. 293 llie stone ; and Hofifman states, that he has knoAvn consumptive people cured by them. The bark of the root is astringent." In cultivating the Strawberry, an open situation and rich loamy soil, rather strong, is required for most varieties ; and from their large mass of foliage and flowers, they must, till the fruit is set, have copious supplies of water. The row culture is best calculated to produce fruit ; and frequent renewal insures vigo- rous plants, as well as large fruit. Some make beds of single rows, from twelve to eighteen inches apart, according to the sorts ; others form a bed with two rows eighteen inches asunder. If several beds be in- tended, a space of two feet may be left between each bed as a path ; and in the second or third season, the paths may be manured and dug, to admit^ of the run- ners taking root; by this means, a renewal may be made so often, and the old stools being taken away, leaves spaces between the beds as before. Or new plantations may be made every season ; as, after the roots are fairly established, they multiply sponta- neously every summer, as well by suckers from the parent stem, as by the numerous runners; all of which, rooting and forming a plant at every joint, require only removal to a spot where there is room for them to flourish. If taken ofl", and planted in rows in August and September, they will produce fine fruit the following season, and will bear in full perfection the second summer. A plantation of the Alpine yields fruit the same year that it is made. The Wood and the Alpine come regularly from seed, from which finer fruit may be produced than from offsets. The otxicr species are uniformly propagated by offsets, except the intention be to try for new varieties. The Alpine and Wood species may be planted in situations rather cool and shady, in order that they may produce their 26 294 STSAWBERRY. fruit late in the season, which is desirable. The Strawberry, with a little trouble of choosing a succes- sion of sorts, may be forced so as to be had at the dessert every month in the year ; though, during the winter months, they have not much flavour. Some gardeners lay straw an inch or two thick over their beds in March, and set fire to it, in order to pro- mote a stocky growth of plants and early fruit ; others recommend mowing off the tops of such plants as are not required to fruit early, while they are in blossom, with a view to obtain a crop of Strawberries late in the season. The London Horticultural Catalogue contains the names of one hundred and twenty-one varieties of all the species ; which are classed accord- ing to their nature, colour, &c. Class 1. Scarlet Strawberries; 2. Black Strawberries ; 3. Pine Straw- berries ; 4. Chili Strawberries ; 5. Hautbois Straw- berries ; 6. Green Strawberries ; 7. Alpine and Wood Strawberries. To select all the most esteemed from this or any other extensive catalogue, is a difficult task ; the following description of species and va- rieties may serve to direct the choice : 1. The Wood ^Stra wherry, (Fragaria vesca,) with oval serrated leaves ; the fruit red, white, and green, which is round and small. A native of Britain. 2. The Scarlet, (Fragaria Virginiana,) with leaves like the preceding ; the fruit roundish and scarlet co- loured. A native of Virginia. Varieties, Early Scar- let, Wilmot's late. Common late, Wilmot's cockscomb scarlet. 3. The Roseberry, (Fragaria virg. var.) an Aber- deen seedKng, introduced in 1810. The plants have few roundish leaves ; larger fruit than the scarlet, and are very prolific ; continues bearing till August. 4. The Downton, (Fragaria virg. var.) The fruit STRAWBERHY. 295 is large, irregular, and cockscomb-like ; leaves large ; plant hardy and prolific. 6. The Carolina, (Fragaria Carolinensis,) colour red ; a native of America. 6. The Musky, or Hautbois, (Fragaria elatier,) with oval rough javelin-edged leaves ; the fruit large, of a pale red colour ; a native of Britain. 7. The Chili, (Fragaria Chiliensis,) with large, oval, thick, hairy leaves, and large flowers ; the fruit large and very firm ; a native of South America. 8. Keen's Imperial, or New Chili, (Fragaria Chil. var.) raised by Mr. Keen, of Isle worth, a most excel- lent bearer, ripening early. The fruit is very large ; the flesh firm and solid, without any separable core ; colour scarlet. 9. The Pine, (Fragaria grandiflora,) the leaves small and delicate. There are two sorts, the red and the white, or greenish tinted, of this most rich fla- voured fruit. Knevet's seedling produces large fruit of excellent flavour. 10. The Alpine, or ProHfic, (Fragaria colHna,) which commonly lasts from June till November, and in mild seasons, till near Christmas ; two sorts of the fruit, the red and the white. Alps of Europe. 11. The one-leaved, (Fragaria monophylla,) the pulp of the fruit, pink-coloured ; a native of South America. 12. The Grove End scarlet Strawberry, a seedling raised by Wm. Atkinson, Esq. in his garden at Grove End, Marylebone, in the year 1820 ; an excellent bear- er, ripening its berries early and in succession. All the species and varieties of this fruit are highly estimated in Britain, where they are cultivated in great perfection. Berries have been known to weigh from one to two ounces, which have been grown to S96 WALNUT. the circumference of eight inches and upwards. It may be gratifying to the lovers of this excellent fruit, to be informed that some of the best kinds are attainable here. Messrs. Thorburn and Shaw, and Mr. Floy and Sons, have some of the choicest kinds in their nur- series ; and one of our patriotic fellow-citizens, Jesse Buel, Esq., of the Albany Nursery, informs us in the Albany Argus, of June 23, 1830, that he has grown the Downton (a variety of the Chili crossed by Mr. Knight,) two years in succession, 41 inches in circum- ference. He said he picked a pailful that morning of the Methven scarlet Strawberry, which had an ave- rage circumference of three inches each. Several measured four inches, and one four and a quarter inches. Sixty-three, divested of the calyx, weighed a pound, which is a trifle more than four to the ounce. Several of the choicest kinds have been lately trans- planted from the London Society's Garden into the American Nurseries. WALNUT. NoYER. Jugians. From the circumstance of our having an abundance of the fruit, from the many species of this genus of trees growing spontaneously around us, it is presumed that the culture of the Jugians regia, commonly called English Walnut, or Madeira Nut, has been neglected by many of our citizens. It is a native of Persia, and is cultivated in France, England, and in other parts of Europe, both as a fruit and timber tree. The fruit in England is much used in a green state for pickling, and also as an adulteration of soy sauce. In France, an oil which supplies the place of that of Almonds, is made from the kernel. In Spain, they strew the gia- WALNUT. 297 tings of old and hard nuts, first peeled, into their tarts and other meats. The leaves strewed on the ground, and left there, annoy worms or moles, or macerated in warm water, afford a liquor which will destroy them. The unripe fruit is used in medicine for the purpose of destroying worms in the human body. Pliny says, '' the more Walnuts one eats, with the more ease will he drive worms out of the stomach.'' The timber is considered lighter, in proportion to its strength and elasticity, than, any other, and therefore commonly used in England for gun-stocks. It is used in cabinet work in most parts of Europe ; the young timber is allowed to make the finest coloured work, but the old to be finest variegated for ornament. When propa- gated for timber, the nut is sown ; but when fruit is the object, inarching from the branches of fruit-bearing trees is preferable. Budding is also practised by some ; the buds succeed best when taken from the base of the annual shoots ; ordinary sized buds from the upper part of such shoots generally fail. Walnut trees that have not been grafted or budded, may be induced to produce blossoms by ringing the bark, that is, cutting out a streak of the bark around the body or main branches of the tree. Walnut trees seldom yield much fruit until fifteen or twenty years old ; it is produced on the extremities of the preceding year's shoots. The trees should stand forty or fifty feet apart, and they may be permitted to branch out in their natural order. They need but little pruning, merely to regu- late any casual disorderly growth, to reduce over- extending branches, and to prune up the low strag- glers. Lest any of our native Walnuts should be neglected or abandoned by any, I annex a description of the different kinds : Juglans catharticus, is . known under the name of 26* 298 ON THE choice: of Butternut, Oilnut, and white Walnut ; these nuts are used by the Indians as a medicine. Juglans nigra, the black Walnut, is a tree of large size ; its fruit is known to be excellent. Juglans olivaeformis. Pecan, or Illinois nut, is deli- cious. The nuts of Juglans sulcata, which is called thick shell bark, Hickory, and Springfield, and Glou- cester nut, are large and well-tasted. The shell bark Hickory, shag bark, or scaly bark Hickory, Juglans alba, is so called on account of its bark, which is torn lengthwise in long loose strips, as in J. sulcata. The Juglans tomentosa, the Mucker nut, white heart Hickory, or common Hickory, and most of the other kinds enumerated are worth preserving ; or cultiva- ting^where there is none, for its timber for mechanical purposes ; and that of the Juglans glabra, or Hog nut, is useful for brooms, &c. Choice of Fruit Trees in the JYnrsery, In the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and at- tention are necessary ; for, to have trees that do not answer the expectations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment. As the young gardener may need such directions as are calculated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavour to furnish them. Of what- ever species or variety of fruit trees are wanted, choose those that are vigorous and straight, and of a healthy appearance. Whether they have been grafted or budded, be careful to select such as have been worked on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old crooked stunted stocks, seldom succeed w^ell. Trees that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 2.99 bark ; such as are mossy, or have a rough, wrinkled bark, or are the least affected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is discoverable in the young wood, and generally two or three inches above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot, Nectarine, Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the lower part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the ground, and only one graft or bud should be upon each stock, for when there are more, the tree cannot be brought to so handsome a form. In some of the preceding articles, I have shown that some descriptions of trees may be transplanted with safety, even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or five years' growth, after heading down, that are healthy, and well furnished with fruit-bearing wood, close up to the centre of the tree, can be ob- tained, they will do very well ; but great care is re- quisite in taking up, removing, and planting such. Let the tree be taken up with as great a portion of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, split, or damage them ; for w^ant of attention to these points, trees often become diseased. Whenever [notwith- standing all due caution] any roots have been acci- dentally broken, split, or otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them be cut off; or if they cannot be well spared, let the damaged or bruised part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and an application of the following composition be spread over the wound, in order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise injure the tree. To equal parts of soft soap and tar, add a little bees' wax ; let them be boiled together, and when cold they may be used. The necessity of pru- ning-in and dressing mangled roots, is more particu- larly required in trees of the stone fruit, such as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, &c. ; for with- SOO ON THE CHOICE OF out the application of some remedy, they gum at the H)ots, whicb defect, if not counteracted) very mate- rially injures the upper part of- the trees, which may become so affected as never to recover afterwards ; therefore, great care should be taken not to occasion such injury ; and when accidents happen, all due caution and application are necessary, to promote a healthy and vigorous growth. A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly corresponding to the branches ; at least, it should have one strong root in a similar proportion to the bole of the tree, with a proper distribution of branching fibres. Healthy roots are always smooth and clear, the colour of them varies a little according to the sort of the tree, but the older the roots are, the darker the colour is. After the tree is taken up, be careful in conveying it to the place where it is to be planted, so that the roots are not chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be con- veyed a considerable distance, they should be well guarded by straw, or otherwise, in order to prevent injury. All damaged bruised roots should be pruned as soon as the tree is taken up, but if it be necessary to prune away any sound good roots, such pruning should be delayed until the time of planting. In pru- ning away roots, always let them be finished by a clear cut, and in a sloping direction, letting the slope be towards the under stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to lodge upon the part so cut. When trees are planted at an advanced season, in the spring of the year, it will be necessary to prune the tops ; and if trees are removed that have been trained three or four years, and are not properly supplied with young wood, they must be cut down either wholly or par- tially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In practising this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c., always FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 301 prune so as to have a leading shoot close below the cut, as it is very rare they will push a shoot below, unless there be a lead. This attention is not so par- ticularly required in the Pear, &c., as such will gene- rally push forth shoots, although no leading ones were left : but in all kinds, the younger the wood is, the more certain are shoots to be produced. If a tree that has been under training for one or two years, should only have one good strong leading shoot, and two or three weaker ones which do not proceed from it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten the strong one, from which a handsome head may afterwards be formed. For further directions, as respects pruning and planting fruit trees, &c., the reader is referred to the articles from page 209 to 2*23, on these subjects ; and as respects any species of fruit in particular, directions will be found under its dis- tinct head. In order to assist the reader to make a judicious choice of fruit trees, I have furnished a short descrip- tion of such sorts as can be best recommended. Pre- vious to making this selection, I carefully perused '^ Prince's Pomological Manual," also such parts of "Kenrick's American Orchardist," and "Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden," as were applicable to my subject ; besides these important guides, I had the select catalogues of different nursery- men before me, and have chosen such only as have been most generally recommended ; in doing this, I have had difficulties to contend with, the nature of which none but those who have duly considered the subject can form any idea. The facility with which seedling plants are raised, and the paternal fondness with which people are apt to regard their own seed- lings, have occasioned hundreds of names to appear in 302 APPLfi. the various catalogues, which tend not a little to swell the large and increasing list of fruits. In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to the same variety, consequently some fruits appear in the different catalogues under all the varied names ; and the patience and labour necessarily re- quisite for ascertaining Avhat are worthy of cultivation, and what are really distinct varieties, are correspond- ingly great. The annexed list and description of the first fifty varieties of apples, was politely furnished by William R. Prince, Esq., author of the " Pomological Manual," " Treatise on the Vine," &c. ; in making out the 'Other lists, I have generally adopted the names given in the catalogue of Michael Floy and Sons, of the Har- laem Nursery, as a heading ; and have caused the synonymes, or names by which the same variety is known, or has been called, to be printed in italics, thus, my lists of about 300 varieties of the various sorts of fruit, will embrace what has been deemed by some, as different varieties, perhaps to the number of a thousand. APPLES. 1. June eating, Junitlng, or Geniion. — The fruit is small, ©fa roundish form, and yellow colour ; it ripens in July ; the pulp is tender and juicy ; the tree a good bearer, and of small, low growth. 2. Early red Margaret, or red June eating. — The fruit is small and roundish ; colour red striped ;. the pulp sweet, and of pleasant flavour ; it ripens in July. 3. Spring Grove. — The fruit is small, of a conical form, and pale green colour; it is ripe in July, and continues till September; the pulp is soft and juicy ; tree hardy, a great bearer, and the fruit chiefly used in the kitchen. 4. Prince's Yellow Harvest, or July Pippin. — The fruit of a medium size, depressed ; of a pale yellow colour ; tho pu'p is tender, slightly acid, but of an excellent flavouri APPLE. 303 5. SiNEauANoN. — The fruit of a medium size, roundish, but somewhat depressed; of a greenish colour, and very highly flavoured ; ripe in July. White Astracan.— The fruit is roundish, angular at the sides, of medium size ; the colour whitish, faintly streaked with red on the sun side, and covered with a white bloom ; it ripens in August, and the pulp is very tender, pleasant, and delicate. 7. Golden Pkarmain. — The fruit large, roundish, and of a deep red and yellow colour: it ripens in August, and con- tinues till October ; pulp soft and sweet ; a hardy tree, but not large ; a good bearer, and the fruit much esteemed. 8. Sugar Loaf Pippin. — The fruit of medium size, ovate, or oblong; of a pale yellow colour; the pulp firm, but juicy, and of a highly pleasant flavour; it ripens early in August. 9. Hawthorden. — The fruit is large, rather flat, and of a pale green colour ; it ripens in August, and continues till January ; the pulp soft, juicy, and acid ; a very hardy tree ; a great bearer, and the fruit good for all kitchen purposes. 10. Red and Green Sweeting. — The fruit large, of oblong shape; green colour, striped with red; ripens in August and September. The pulp is very sweet, tender, and of pleasant flavour. 11. BoRSDORF.— Fruit medium size, conical form, and of a yellow green colour : it ripens in September, and continues till February ; the pulp is firm, and of an aromatic flavour ; tree of low growth, a middling bearer, but an excellent fruit for the table. 12. Fall Pippin. — The fruit is very large, of a roundish shape; yellow colour; the pulp very tender, and of good flavour; ripens in September and October. 13. Old Golden Pippin. — The fruit small, roundish, and of a gold yellow colour; it ripens in September and October; flesh firm and sweet, fit both for the dessert and kitchen. 14. Pumpkin Sweeting. — Fruit large, of pale yellow colour; pulp very sweet and pleasant; ripens in October and No-> vember. 16. Niwtown Spitzenburg. — The fruit of medium size, roundish and depressed; colour of a pale yellowish ground, greenish where shaded, but red next the sun ; pulp very sweet, rich and pleasant ; ripens in October and November. 17. — Wood's Transparent. — Fruit small and flat, of a green and yellow colour ; ripens in October, and continues till February ; flesh firm and juicy ; tree hardy, a great bearer, and excellent fruit. 304 APPLE. 18 —Sweet Bough. — Fruit large, ovate, of pale yellow co- lour ; tender, sweet, and pleasant in flavour ; ripens in August. 19. — RiBSTONE Pippin. — Fruit of medium size, roundish, and partially depressed ; of a pale yellow colour, tinged with red ; pulp slightly acid, and of fine flavour; ripens in Novem- ber, and continues till April. ♦ 20. Rhode Island Greening. — Fruit large and depressed, of a greenish colour; slightly acid, and of fine flavour ; ripens in November, and continues till April. 21. — Holland Pippin. — Fruit medium size, ovate form, and of a gold and green colour; it ripens in October, and con- tinues till February ; flesh crisp and firm ; tree hardy and large ; a good bearer, and much esteemed fruit. 22. Seek no Further. — Fruit of medium size, depressed j of a whitish colour, flesh very tender, and of pleasant flavour 5 ripens in November, and continues till March. 23. Esorus Spitzenburg. — Fruit large and oval ; of red colour ; flesh yellowish ; slightly acid, and of the finest fla- vour ; ripens in October, and continues till February. 24. Pennock Red Winter. — Fruit very large and com- pressed; of deep red colour ; flesh tender, juicy, and of sweet and pleasant flavour ; ripens in November. 25. Flushing Spitzenburg. — Fruit, large, roundish, some- what compressed ; red striped colour, and of sweet and plea, sant flavour ; ripens in November, and continues till March. 26. Red Winter Sweeting. — Fruit large and compres- sed ; of reddish colour; and of sweet and delicious flavour; ripens in November, and continues till March. 27. Green Nev;town Pippin. — Fruit medium size, com. pressed ; of pale green colour ; flesh very high flavoured ; ripens in December, and keeps till June, 28. Bringewood Pippin. — Fruit small, nearly globular ; colour bright yellow tinged with red, pulp exceedmg sweet, and highly perfumed. 29. Downton Pippin. — Fruit of moderate size, cylindrical, flattened at the ends ; of yellow colour, with numerous specks; flesh firm, rich and subacid ; ripens in October and November. 30. EnglIsh Nonpareil. — Fruit of medium size, and flat; of a greenish yellow colour, with a slight russet ; flesh firm, rich and aromatic ; ripens in November, and continues till May. 31. Fenouillet Gris. — Fruit rather small, roundish, ovate, of a yellowish gray colour, with a slight lusset ; pulp tender, APPLE. 305 saccharine, and highly flavoured; ripens in November, and continues good till February. 32. Red Winter Calville. — Fruit, large and oblong, of a pale red colour, deeper next the sun ; flesh tender, and of pleasant flavour ; ripens in November. 33. Dredges' Beauty of Wilts. — Fruit medium size and oval form, of a bright yellow, spotted with red ; it ripens in October, and lasts till March ; pulp firm and juicy ; a great bearer, and the fruit good for all kitchen purposes. 34. Ortley Pippin. — Fruit of large size, pale yellow co- lour, often a tinge of red on the sunny side ; flesh firm and high flavoured ; ripens in November, and lasts till April. 35. Lemon Pippin. — Fruit of medium size, oval shape ; colour yellowish green ; flesh firm, pleasant, but not high flavoured ; ripens in October, and lasts till March. 36. Blenheim Pippin.— Fruit large, roundish, of a yellowish colour, tinged with red next the sun ; pulp sweet and high flavoured ; ripe in November, and keeps till March. 37. Gravenstein\ — Fruit rather large and compressed ; of a yellowish green colour, striped with red, and high flavour- ed ; ripens in October, and lasts till January. 38. Alexander. — Fruit very large, somewhat cordate, smallest at the crown ; of a greenish yellow colour, striped or marbled with red ; pulp, tender, sweet, rich and aromatic ; ripens in October, and lasts till February. Though a large, hardy tree, it is a medium bearer, but a magnificent fruit. 39. Franklin Golden Pippin. — Fruit a medium size, coni- cal, of a golden yellow colour, with gray and dark-coloured specks; it ripens in November, and continues till March; flesh firm, and highly aromatic ; tree rather slender, and mid- dling bearer, but an excellent fruit. 40. Rambour Franc. — Fruit large and compressed ; of pale yellow colour, tinged with red ; flesh tender, with a slight acidity; ripens in October and November. 41. Newark King. — Fruit large, oval shape; colour red, striped with yellow ; the pulp of pleasant flavour ; ripens in October, and lasts till January. 42. Priestly. — Fruit large, oblong; of a dull red colour, faintly striped; the flesh of pleasant and aromatic flavour; ripens in December, and continues till April. 43. Hughes' Golden Pippin. — Fruit small, round, but par- tially depressed ; of yellow colour, with numerous specks ; flesh firm, juicy, rich, pungent, and agreeable ; ripens in Oc- tober, and lasts till January. 27 306 APPLE. 44. Beauty of Kent. — Fruit rather large, and of irregular shape ; of a yellowish green colour, mottled with red ; flesh firm and juicy, with a pleasant acid flavour ; ripens in Octo- ber» and continues till January. 45. Monstrous Pippin. — Fruit of enormous size, often weighing twenty-five ounces or more; of a pale lemon co- lour ; flesh tender, and of sprightly flavour, excellent for cooking ; ripens in October, and continues fit for use till January. 46. Long Island Russet. — Fruit of medium size, depres- sed ; 'russetty colour, and of pleasant flavour ; ripens by No- vember, and continues till March. 47. Winter Sweet Peakmain. — Fruit small, roundish ; of a dull red colour, with green stripes ; pulp very sweet, and of peculiar flavour ; ripens in November, and keeps till March. 48. Lady Apple, or Pomme d'^Apis. — Fruit small, flat ; of pale yellow colour, tinged with a deep red on the side ; flesh crisp, sprightly and pleasant ; ripens in November, and con- tinues till April. 49. Pomme Grise. — Fruit rather large, somewhat depres- sed ; russetty ; of pleasant flavour ; ripens in November, and lasts till March. 50. Norfolk Beaufin. — Fruit middling size, flattish, and a deep red and pale green colour; it ripens in November and December, and lasts till August ; flesh firm and savoury ; tree hardy and upright, and a good bearer ; fruit excellent for use in the kitchen. 51. "EiKViTJY CviOVTon ^or Irish Peach Apple.— An Irish apple, of the middle size and flattish shape; of an olive green colour, much variegated with red ; has a rich saccharine fla- vour ; ripens in August ; it is much esteemed for the dessert, and excellent also a sauce apple. The tree grows well, and is not apt to canker. 62. Dowell's Pippin, — In size and form this apple resem- bles the Ribstone Pippin, but is more pointed at the head, and the eye is sunk in a more 'confined and deeper cavity; the skin is green, nearly covered with a clear thin russet, and a slight tinge of brownish red on the sunny side ; an excellent dessert apple from October to Christmas. 53. Bai^celona Pearmain, Glace Rouge, Kleiner Casseler Reinetie, Reinetle Rouge, Reinette Rousse, Reinelte des Carmes. — Fruit of medium size, oval, not angular; colour, brownish yellow in the shade, but deep red next the sun ; fleJasturtium, 56; sow Onion seed, 57; Parsley, 59; Parsnip, 60; plant Peas, 62; Po- tatoes, 64 ; Sweet Potatoes, 65 ; Pumpkins, 66 ; Patience Dock, 67 ; sow Radish seed, 68; plant Rocambole, 68 ; Rhubarb, 69; Sal- sify and Scorzonera, 72 ; Sea Kale, 73 ; sow Sorrel and Skirret, 76 ; Spinach, 78; plant Squash, 79; sow Turnip seed for summer use, 83 ; Navet. or French Turnip, variety esculenta, 36 ; make Hop plantations, 86 ; Horseradish, 90 ; Herh^^, 98 and 99 ; Dahlia roots may now be forwarded in growth, 170 ; also Tuberoses, 185, and Tiger Flowers, 186. Towards the end of this, or early in the next month, plant Amaryllises, 163, also Gladioluses, 173, and tender Lilie>, 177. Besides the work of sowing and planting the' various kinds of seeds above enumerated, all Ihe strongest plants of Cabbage, Cau- liflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the hot-beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds in the open garden. All kinds of flower seeds, except the very tender annuals, may be sown this month, 139 and 144, and the hardiest greenhouse plants may be exposed to the open air in mild weather. A ttend to such other business in tins departuient as was left undone last month, and see that the garden be kept neat and free from weeds. Finish planting fruit trees, and attend to the Strawberry beds ; plant cutthigs of Grape Vines, dc, 2G0. MAY. As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c. near fruit trees, and sow ashes over the ground. Attend to plantations of Cabbages, Cauliflower, &c. ; hoe them frequently, and draw earth up to their stems; look out for and destroy grub-worms, caterpillars, and other insects, 8 ; weed and thin the early plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c , and destroy weeds, to prevent their seeding in the ground. Plant and sow such kinds of seeds as were omitted last month, and transplant Cabbages, Egg-plants, Lettuce, Tomatoes, CALENDAR AND INDEX. 341 &c. from the hot-beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 23 and 24; Beet, 35; sow Borecole, 26 ; Brussels Sprout seed, 27 ; Broc- coli, 29 ; Cauliflower, 33 ; Cabbage seed, 34 ; Carrot, 38 ; Cress, 43 ; plant Cucumbers, 44 ; sow Endive seed, 47 ; plant Indian Corn, 49 ; Melon, 53; Water Melon, 54; sow Mustard seed, 55; plant Nasturtiums and Okra, 56 ; Pepper, 61 ; plant Peas, 62 ; Pota- toes, 64 ; Potatoe, sweet, 65 ; Pumpkins, 66 ; sow Radish seed, 68 ; Sorrel, 76 ; plant New Zealand Spinach, 79 ; Squash. 79 ; To- mato, 80, In the early part of this month, finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic, Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 98 and 99. Some of the old hot beds may be spawned for Mushrooms, but it is best to form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week, and gather the produce ; clear them of weeds and wet litter, and put a little dry hay or straw next the bed. prepare fresh spawn, &c., 92 to 96 ; sow all kinds of Flower seeds in the early part of the month, 139 to 144 ; mow lawns and grass walks, destroy weeds, remove decayed plants, support tall flowering plants, 135 ; attend to green-house plants, and water them frequently. Plant Dahlia roots in ground well prepared, 171 ; Tuberoses, 185 ; Tiger Flower roots, 186. Grape Vines and other choice trained fruits should be attended to in this month. Divest them of all useless and unhealthy shoots. If Apricot trees set too thick, the fruit should be thinned. JUNE. The principal sowing seasons for general crops may be con- sidered as past, but there are many kinds of seeds which may be sown this month ; and the gardener should ascertain the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far advanced. By this time, some of the early crops will be cleared off, and such ground as was manured for the early crops of Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c., will be excellent tor late Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing crops, and clean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from running to seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be beneficial. Use means to destroy insects ; read from page 6 to 9 for information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 23 ; Beet seed, 25. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, &c, failed last month, sow again early this month. Water the beds frequently, and sow tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c, or use the liquid recommended, page 7. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c. for summer use ; transplant Cardoons, 37 ; sow Carrot seed in drills, 38 ; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 45 ; sow Endive seed, 47 ; plant Indian Corn, 49 ; transplant Leeks, 50 ; plant Peas, soak them first five or six hours in water, 62 ; plant Potatoes, 64 and 65 ; Pumpkin seed, 66 ; sow Black Radish seed, 68. As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for winter use, 100. Con- 30 842 CALENDAR AND INDEX. duct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have reached the top", nip off the tops, to strengthen the stems, 87. Give frequent watering to the Flower beds ; cut down dead flower stalks ; re- move decayed plants, and replace them with vigorous ones from the nursery bed, 135 ; transplant annual flower plants into the regular beds, and on the bulbous beds, 134 and 141. Trees on espaliers now require attention ; cut off such superfluous shoots as are not required to be trained in, leaving well placed middle sized shoots, to supply the place of any old branches that may be thought necessary to cut away. Grape vines should be looked over every week. Cut off all the tendrils and useless young shoots, and stop the shoots before the bunches of fruit. Train up the shoots for bearing next season, and to a proper length, before you stop them. Plant Colchicums, 165; finish planting Dahlias, and provide poles for their support, 171 and 172. JULY. This is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage, Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leek plants, &c.ifor full autumn crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants beforehand, in order that they may be ready to catch the rain. Leeks may be transplanted in dry weather by first steeping the roots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there be the least damp in the ground when it is fresh turned over. If Cardoons or Celery be planted in dry weather, the trenches must be shaded with boards. As grub worms are generally numerous in this month ; plant with caution, try a few Cabbage plants first, and if none are eaten off, you may venture to proceed, and by the middle of this month, the danger is generally over. «^ If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seeds may produce good roots by autumn, if planted early in this month ; plant Beans, 23 ; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Collards, 36 ; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 45 ; sow Endive seed, and transplant the former sowing, 47 ; if Peas be planted now, they should be soaked in soft water five or six hours previous, 62 ; Potatoes may be planted early in this month 64 ; and Pumpkins if not done last month. Sow black Spanish Radish seed in drills, 68 ; sow Turnip-rooted Cabbage seed, or Navet, 36 ; this is a good season for Ruta Baga, or Russian Turnip, 85 ; and the common kinds of Turnip seed may be sown towards the end'of this month, 84. Attend to plan- tations of Hops, 87 ; whatever herbs may be required for winter use, should be cut off and dried as they come into flower, Burnet, Chervil, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Sweet Marjoram, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter and Summer Savory, may all be cut this month. The flower garden should be kept weeded and watered, and the seeds gathered as they ripen ; apply neat rods to the tall-growing and running kinds of plants ; such hardy bulbs as may require to be removed, may be taken up as the tops wither, after which, the CALENDAR AUD INDEX. 343 dflsets may be parted ofi^ and both these and the parent bulbs dried, for planting in autumn, 160 and 161 ; roll gravel walks and attend to the lawns, edgings, &c. 134. Look over your fruit trees and grape vines ; stop the shoots before the bunches of fruit, and train up such shoots as are reserved for bearing next year. JNip off curled and dead leaves, and destroy insects. AUGUST. The planting season being nearly over, now is the time to hoe around the plants and clear the ground of weeds and stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for fall Turnips, Spinach, Shallots, Fetticus, &c. As the ground for the latter crops may require manure, it will be greatly improved if ploughed before the manure is drawn on, which should be afterwards spread and ploughed under. Plant Beans for picklers,|23 ; sow Cabbage seed for Collards, 36^ earth up Cardoons, 37 ; do. Celery, 41 ; sow Corn Salad, or Fet- ticus seed, 42 ; the early kinds of Cucumber may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 45 ; transplant Endive and prepare to blanch the early plantings, 47 ; Peas may be planted thus late if desired, 62 ; sow black Radish seed, 68 ; prepare for planting Shallots by the end of this month, 77 ; sow Turnip seed for full crops, 84 ; attend to such herbs as were not gathered last month, cut off and dry Sage, and other late herbs. Hops will be ripe this month ; choose a dry season for gathering them, and attend to them as directed, page 87; thi« is a good season for preparing to make Mushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars or pits ; if the materials be collected this month, indigenous spawn may be collected next, but those that can procure spawn may make the beds at any time, or they may pursue Mr. Nichol's plan, 94 ; continue to gather seeds of all kinds as they ripen, and clear the ground ready for late crops of Spinach, &c. ; prepare to plant tender Bulbous roots ; plant OxaUses in small pots, 179. SEPTEMBER. Although the sowing season is nearly over, the crops on the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still be trans- planted for winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celery as it progresses in growth. Sov? Cauliflower seed, 31 ; Cabbage, 33 ; Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 42 ; Cress every ten days for a Salad ; sow Mustard, Rape, &c. for the same purpose ; sow Lettuce seed, 51 ; Onion to stand the winter, 56 ; Radish for fall use, 68 ; plant Shallots, 77 ; sow Spinach seed every week or ten days, 78 ; Turnips will sometimes come to matu« ri. if the seeds be sown the early part of this month, 84, 344 CALENDAR AND INDEX. Continue to gather, dry and pack Hops as they ripen, 88 ; also all aromatic, sweet and medicinal herbs, 100 ; this is a good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situations; they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial spawn, as may be most con- venient. For directions to preserve spawn, &c. see page 92. This is a good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants by parting the roots ; and the perennial and biennial flower plants, raised from seed, may be planted in the flower borders in cloudy or wet weather, 144 and 145 ; flowering and evergreen shrubs may also be transplanted with care ; water them immediately after planting. Plantations of Strawberries may be made this month, either with runners or seedling plants. Protect your Grapes and other fruit from wasps and other insects ; either decoy them with honey or sugared water, or hang nets over them ; some are at the expense of having the bunches put into crape or paper bags. Plant Cape Bulbs in pots to be kept in the greenhouse through the winter ; plant Crown Imperials, see page 165 ; Ixias, 175 ; Lachenalias, 176 ; Ornithogalums and Oxalises, 179. OCTOBER. The prmcipal winter crops being planted, it will be necessary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of the fall crops. Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and earth up Celery, do it in dry weather, and not even while the dew is on it, 41 ; As- paragus, Sea Kale, Skirret, and Dill seed may be sown ihts month, Towards the end ot the month, frames must be provided for the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cabbage and Cauliflower plants as were raised from seed sown last month Begin to dig and secure all kinds of vegetables soon enough, to get the whole placed away before the end of the next, month. Take up Potatoes and bury them in graves so as to secure them from wet and frost, or put them in a warm cellar. Proceed to take up other roots ; begin with the tenderest kinds, or do that which is required to be done in dry weather, while it is so. Collect Pumpkins and Winter Squashes, and expose them to the sun and air on a dry bench, or ledge, before they are stowed away. Dig up Beets and secure them in graves, or pack them in sand in a cellar. Attend to the different kinds of herbs, 100 ; prune flowermg shrubs, and make new plantations of them. Protect tender exotic plants in the early part of this month. Prune Gooseberry and Currant Bushes, and make plantations of them, and Raspberries towards the end of the month. All the old branches which produced fruit last summer, may now be cut out of your Raspberry plantations. Prepare to plant all the hardy kinds of bulbous flower rootSj 160 ; take up, and secure, Dahlias, Tuberoses, and other tender^^ CALENDAB AND INDEX. 345 roots, &c. 161. Towards the end of the month, plant Anemones, Ranunculuses and Crocuses, 164 ; Crown Imperials, 165 ; Gladi- oluses, 173; Hyacinths, 174; Irises and Ixias, 175; Jonquils, 176; Lilies, 177; Narcissus, 178: Ornithogalums, 179; Pseonies, 180 ; Tulips, 184. For the management of bulbous roots, in pots and glasses, see page 187 to 189 ; of greenhouse plants, 188 to 193 ; Cnrysanthe- mums, 194. NOVEMBER. Endeavour to avoid having your garden products frozen fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ; in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Parsnips, Skirret and Salsify roots as will be required for winter use, and pack them close together in graves ; give them a coat of straw, and afterwards heap on as much earth as will keep out the frost, or stow them in a cellar. Towards the end of the month, Turnips may be secured in the same way. Take up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close together against a ridge which should be previously formed in a straight line about a foot above the level of the surface ; throw up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them about an inch, and then plant row after row as close and upright as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between every row to keep the roots and stalks from touching each other. The whole being co- vered up with earth, some long dung or litter may be thrown over it sufficient to keep out the frost ; and by heaping a good layer of manure against the last row of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in the winter for use. Some erect a board shed over to pre- serve it from wet, or a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. Cabbages must be taken up and laid in rows against a ridge, so as to form a square, compact, close-growing bed, the roots and stems bemg buried up to the lower leaves of the Cabbages. The beds may be afterwards covered vrith straw, or a temporary shed may be erected over them. Cabbages will keep for some months in a cellar, if connected with their roots. For the management of Broccoli and Cauliflower, see pages 30 and 112. Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and Coilards, may be taken up and stowed away like Cabbages. Cardoons may be laid in like Celery, or preserved in sand in a cellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close: together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the lower leaves. If the last row be protected from frost by a coat of stable dung, they can be taken out when required for use. Corn Salad, Spinach, and Lettuce, may be protected by a covering of straw, salt hay, or cedar brush. For the management of Artichoke beds, see page 13 ; Asparagus, 17 ; Rhubarb, 70 ; Sea Kale, 7-i. Cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, or light litter, 146 ; finish planting bulbous roots, Anemones, Ranunculuses, and Cro- cuses 164; Hyacinths, 174; Irises and Ixias, 175; Jonquils, 176; 30* 346 GALENDAE AKD INDEX. Lilies, 177; Nascissus, 178; Pseonies, 180; Tulips, 184. These and all other plants will need protection before the setting in of winter, 160. Hardy fruit trees may be planted this month; lay long litter round the roots of them, and also of the grape vines and other tender plants, trees, shrubs, &c. DECEMBER. If all was not done as directed last month, there is now no time to be lost. Every thing that needs protection should now be at- tended to, and if the weather continues open, some of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to receive the benefit of winter frosts. Collect all your pea sticks and bean poles together, and place them under cover to prevent their rotting. Turn over com- post heaps, and provide manure for another year. Attend to Mushroom beds, and cover up bulbous and other roots with leaves or litter. All kinds of tender plants in pots should be set into frames or pits, and plunged in old tan or light mould, and in hard frosts covering of mats, straw, &c. may be laid over them. Collect from heaths and rocks such kinds of earth as are suitable for different sorts of exotic plants, and gather leaves of trees of all sorts, and lay them in heaps. If you intend to make hot-beds of them, they should be put together dry ; but if you intend them for compost, they may be laid together as wet as possible. Protect the stems of newly-planted trees. Cover with litter the roots of grape vines and figs against walls, and cover the branches with mats, &c. Prune Apple, Pear, Gluince, and other hardy fruit trees; cut out rotten and decaying branches. To destroy insects on the fruit trees, and prevent them from creeping up and breeding on them, do as follows : Take a strong knife with a sharp point, and a sharp hook-Uke iron made for the purpose ; with these scrape clean off all the moss and outside rough bark, and with the knife pick out or cut away cankered parts of the bark and of the wood, in such a slanting manner that water cannot lodge in the sides of the stems of the trees. Having cleared the trees in this manner, make up a mix- ture of lime, soot and sulphur ; put these ingredients into a pot or tub, pour boiling water upon them, and with a stick stir and mix them well together. When this strong mixture becomes cold, and about the thickness of white-wash, take a brush, dip it in the mixture, and apply it to the stems and the large branches of ths trees, dabbing it well into the hollow parts of the bark. The pruning of hardy fruit trees and hardy shrubs may be performed at all favourable opportunities through the winter. For further information on these subjects, the reader is referred to the articles commencing page 215, and 223. INDEX Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers & Fruits. VEGETABLES. Page Artichoke, - - 11 Asparagus, 15, 109 &. 123 Beans, Eng. Dwarf, 20 & 111 Beans, Kidney Dwarf, 22 & HI Beans, Pole or Running, 24 Beet, - - 25 Borecole, or Kale, - 26 Brussels Sprouts, - 27 Broccoli, - 28 & 112 Cauliflower, - 31 & 112 Cabbage, - 33 & 104 Colewort, or CoUards, 36 Cardoons,. - - 37 Carrot, - - 38 Celery, - 39 Chervil, - - 42 Chives, - - 42 Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 42 Cress, - - 43 Cucumber, 44, 113 & 116 Egg Plant, - 46 & 104 Endive, - - 47 Garden Burnet, - 48 Garlic, - - 68 Indian Corn, - 49 Jerusalem Artichoke, 49 Leek, - - 50 Lettuce, - 51 & 117 Melon, - 53 & 118 Melon Water, - 54 Mustard, - - 55 Nasturtium, - 56 Okra, - - 56 Onion, - - 57 Parsley, - - 59 Parsnip, - - 60 Peppers, - - 61 62 & 119 64 & 120 65 67 67 & 121 68 69 & 121 71 Scorzonera, - 72 Sea Kale, - 73 & 123 Sorrel, - - 76 Skirret, - - 76 Shallot, - - 77 Spinach, - - 78 Squash, - - 79 I omato, - 80 & 104 Turnip, - - 81 Turnip, French or Navet, 36 Turnip, Russian, - 85 Hop, - 85, 214 & 215 Horse Radish, - 90 Mushroom, 90, 122, 213 & 815 Potatoes, Potatoes, Sweet, Pumpkins, Patience Dock, Radish, Rocambole, Rhubarb, HERBS AND FLOWERS. Annual Flower Seeds, a Catalogue of - - - - 135 Aromatic, Pot, and Sweet Herbs, a catalogue of - - 97 Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds, a catalogue of - 142 Climbing Plants, 137, 143, 147, & 155 Chrysanthemums, 194 Double Dahlias, a catalogue of 166 Edgings, Lawns, &c. 134 & 146 Greenhouse Plants, Management of - - - 189 to 193 Herbs, Pot and Sweet, Culture of - . . . 98 Herbs, Medicinal, Culture of ... - - 99 Herbs, to Preserve, 100 a48 INDEX. Roses, running kinds of _ . - . 157 Shrubs, Flowering and Ornamental, - - - 146 to 157 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. Page . ^^t Amaryllises, - 162 Jonquils, Anemones «& Ranunculuses, 164 Lachenalias, - 176 Crocuses, - . 164 Lilies, 176 Crown Imperials, - 165 Narcissuses, - 177 Colchicums, - 165 Ornithogalums, - 178 Double Dahlias, - 165 Oxalises, 179 Gladioluses, - 172 Pseonies, - 179 Hyacinths, - - 174 Tulips, 181 Irises, - - 175 Tuberoses, 185 Ixias, - . - 175 Tiger Flowers, - 186 FRUITS. Apple, - 233 & 302 Mulberry, 273 Apricot, - 235 & 308 Nectarine, 276 & 313 Almond, - 238 Orange, Lemon, &c 278 Cherry, - 240 & 309 Peach, - 280^ & 315 Chestnut, - 242 Pear, 283 & 321 Cranberry, - 243 Plum - - . 285 & 329 Currant, - 245 auince. 288 Fig, - - 247 Raspberry, 290 Filbert, - - 248 Strawberry, 292 Gooseberry, - 249 Walnut, 296 Grape, - - 256 INDEX TO THE GENERAL MATTER. Air, Heat, Light, and Moisture, essential to vegetation — 191 & 192 Ashes valuable to the Farmer, - - - 83, 219 to 223 Aspect, Situation, &c. - - - - 2, 133, 160 & 209 Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Plants, defined, 98 & 144 Budding and Grafting Fruit Trees, - - 228 Blank Book recommended, - - - 2, 103, 140 & 184 Bulbous and Tuberous roofs, defined, - - - 159 Bulbous and Tuberous roots, to preserve, • 160, 162 & 189 Beauties of April and May, --.--- 196 Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery, - - 298 Calendar and Index, - - .- - - - 209 to 218 Diseases of Trees, Insects, &c. - - - 215 & 346 Double Dahlias, General Management of, - 161 & 170 Drilling, Mode of, 5, 6 & 141 Eflfects of Cultivation Exemplified in Celery, - - 39 Forcing Vegetables, Observations on, - - - - 105 INDEX. 349 Flower Garden, Observations on, - 133, 138, 146 & 153 Garden Tools, &c.; indispensably necessary, 6, 138, 227 & 228 Grafting Clay, Composition, &c. to make, - - 232 General Observations on the Kitchen Garden, - - 1 lo 10 Hedges of Shrubs, 133 & 147 Hot- Beds, Management of, - - - 104, 113 & 338 Hints on Cooking Rare Vegetables, - - - - 124 Insects, to destroy, 3, 7, 45, 215 & 340 Laying out the Ground, - - - - ' - 1, 10 & J33 Manure, Compost, &c. ... 3^ 10, 160, 193 & 346 Matrimonial Garden, 293 Observations on the Fruit Garden and Orchard, - 209 Pruning and Training Fruit Trees, Vines, &c. - 147 & 223 Perennial Herbaceous Plants, to propagate, 145, 190 & 344 Plan of Beds, &c. 101 to 104 Protection of Flower Beds, - - 133, 146, 164, 185, & 346 RolUng recommended, '- 6&9 Soils, manageznent of, - - - - 3, 83, 138 & 193 Sowing Season, 4, 84 & 139 Table of Estimates, -.„...'. 9 Thermometer recommended, -.-.-- 108 Transplanting Vegetables, - - - . 9, 340 & 342 Transplanting Flowering Plants, - - 141, 145 & 344 Vegetables, to preserve, - - - - - 344 & 345 COMMENDATORY NOTICES OF Tlie Young Gardener's Assistant* " The first edition of the ' Young Gardener's Assistant' has been favourably noticed in the 'Annates dc V Institute Royal Horticole de Fromont^^ the editor of which, Le ChevaHer Soulange Bodin,speaks of it in terms of high commendation." — N. Y.Farmer. " From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appro- priate heads, and the plain and practical nature of the instructions, it must be an invaluable manual for those who may wish to super- intend the management of their own gardens." — Alhamj Argxis. " The author is an experienced practical gardener and seedsman, and his book is an excellent manual and guide for the beginner, whether old or young, in horticultural pursuits."— Ga^e^^e. " It will we are persuaded be found, what the writer intends it shall be, ' generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the management of, their own gardens.' Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener himself, in the Bowery road, and his directions are there- fore applicable to our climate— an advantage of no little moment." --AiMerican. " Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of the subject on which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of twelve years' experience, and we dare to say, that though submitted in an unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, ihan ttiose in more costly and expensive works."— Courier and Enquirer. " No work on the subject of Kitchen Gardening, ever published in- this country, has met with so very general approbation and extensive sale. Mr. Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writes from his own experience.'' — Daily Adv. " Bridgeman' s Gardener's Assistant. — The fourth edition of this useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by the addition of several matters not contained in either of the former editions. Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist the gardener's memory.'' — Evening Post. " The calendarial index is invaluable, and of itself worth the jxrice of the hook.''— Commercial. " That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this most innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of applause and patronage ; and such we consider the * Young Gar- dener's Assistant.' " — Advocate. " The woik is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged in Agriculture, 'far from the busy haunts of men,' and to the disciples of Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seedsman, and has lived many years on both sides of. (the Atlantic." — Old Countryman. J^EW WORK ON FLORICULTURE, Sust 3Pu6lisf!)etr, AND FOR SALE BY THE SUBSCRIBER, THE FLORIST'S GUIDE, BY T. BRIDGEMAN, GARDENER AND FLORIST, NEW- YORK. 120 Pages, neatly done up in Boards, price 37^ Cents. This is one of the best works on tho subject ever published in any country : it contains Practical Directions for the Cul- tivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes, Herbaceous and Shrubby, Bulbous, Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including the Double Dahlia, Greenhouse Plants in Rooms, &c, &c. A Work of the above kind has been long wanted ; hitherto, it required an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any sort of readable directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in rooms, &c. and when procured, were so full of botanical foppery, that plain, honest people, after wading through some three or four hundred pages, were about as wise as to knowing how to set about their gardening, as when they commenced their book. The present little work obviates all these difficulties. The Author is well known as one of our best practical gardeners, and it may be truly said he has rendered the Ladies in particular (for whom the work was first projected) an essential service; the directions for the care of the Camellia Japonica, the Double Dahlia, the sowing and treatment of Annual Flower Seeds, are alone worth double the price of the book; so is the Calendarial Index, which, by the untiring industry of Mr, Bridgeman, is made to include in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than in some ponderous octavos on the same subject. In short, those who are dissatisfied after a perusal of this work, may return it. GEO. C. THORBURN, 67, Liberty-street. {From the Commercial Advertiser, of March 26, 1835.) 0S2 The FlorisVs Guide is the title of a duodecimo volume, of 120 pages, just issued from the press in this city. It is the production of Mr. T. Bridgeman, Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist, and contains directions for the cultivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes. A work of this description cannot but prove valuable to Hor- ticulturists, particularly to those Ladies who are fond of that healthful employment of cultivating th«ir own flower-beds. — Gazette. We observe that Mr. T. Bridgeman, the ingenious author of '' The Young Gardener's Assistant," has put to press another work, entitled "The Florist's Guide," containing directions for cultivating flowering plants and greenhouse plants of every description. It is very neatly printed, and although extending to 120 pages, is offered at the low price of 37^ cents per copy. — Old Countryman. The Florist's Guide. — A delightful little book, which we advise every body to purchase — at least every body that has the least liking for the pleasing occupation on which it treats. — Courier and Enquirer. Mr. Bridgeman, of this city, has published a neat little work, entitled the " Florist's Guide," containing directions for the cultivation of flowers. It is a pleasant and instructive little book. — Times. Mr. T. Bridgeman, author of several works on gardening, has just published a little volume entitled "The Florist's Guide," containing practical directions for the cultivatioa of annual, biennial, and flowering plants,Wouble dahlias, green- house plants.. &c. It is neatly printed. — Post. The Florist's Guide — The author of this work is a gar- dener and florist, and gives the result of his knowledge and experience in this most pleasing employment of cultivating flowers. — Daily Advertiser. The Florist's Guide has also been very favourably noticed by the editors of many other respectable periodicals, as a work eminently calculated to promote a love for the cultiva- tion and correct management of flowers — the study of which, remarks one of these writers, "refines the taste, and imparts just and ennobling views of the wise provisions of Nature." r..*