LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Shelf JLtiU. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. From a Forest To a City. . Personal Reminiscences of Syracuse, N. Y. BY OCT 211889.; M". C. HAND- GTO^' SYRACUSE, N. Y.: MASTERS & STONE, PRINTERS. 1889. COPYRIGHTED 1889 —BY— M. C. HAND. FROM A FOREST TO A CITY. More than half a century ago I reached that period in life common to most young men when it seems best to leave the parental home and start out on the broad earth in search of the place that destiny has decided we should make home for ourselves. I had never prepared myself for any particular pursuit. My school advantages had been, perhaps, a little better than many of my early as- sociates. There seemed no calling nor locality that beckoned to me as offering place and opportunity. I bade farewell to the home of my childhood in one of the north eastern counties of this state. I seemed like a piece of drift wood carried along by the tide of circum- stances to what destination I knew not. I soon found myself moving slowly westward on a canal boat, then the most common mode of travel through the state. Dark for- ests and swamps were almost continuous with occasional clearings of a few acres with cheap structures filled with boatmen's supplies. After traveling for hours through an unusually gloomy cedar swamp we came to a place called Lodi. There was a small flouring mill built of stone on the south side of the canal, our boat stopped here in search of freight. Seeing the spires of two little churches a mile west, I stepped off the north side and walked along through a thick growth of cedar until I came to FROM A FOREST the Oswego canal. There was not a house to be seen where Canal street is now located. When I came to Salina street I left the tow path and crossed over to the south side of the bridge, where I obtained my first view of the streets of the little village of Syracuse. Of the several streets that diverged from near Salina street bridge, I could not decide which to take, as I had noth- ing to call me in either direction. It was a warm pleas- ant day in October, and for more than an hour I stood still and surveyed the prospect before me. The build- ings that lined the streets were unattractive, no better than other country villages in those days, wooden build- ings largely predominating. The two wide streets Salina and Genesee crossing each other where I stood, gave the little town an airy appearance. On the west side of Salina street where the Globe Hotel is now, was a row of one and a half and two story wooden dwellings, nearly all painted white with green blinds, each lot sur- rounded with a picket fence ; the green lawn and shrub- bery in front of these neat little homes giving them an air of cheerfulness and comfort. On the north-east corner of Salina and Fayette streets the present site of McCar- thy's store, there was a church built after the architecture of those days, painted white with outside green blinds running up to a point. There were brick side walks, over some of which sign boards were placed which read " five dollars fine for any person driving or leading a horse on any sidewalk in this village." This seemed to a stranger, evidence of a neat and orderly people. What claimed my notice more than anything else, was the ac- tivity of those I saw on the street. Every man moved TO A CITY. 5 as though he had just heard that his house was on fire. This energy impressed me most favorably with the place and its people. The hills of the surrounding coun- try were not hiddden by lofty buildings, and clothed in the variegated hues of autumn, added much to the beauty of the landscape before me. I felt a growing attachment to the little place, and taking an inventory of my pockets, found an old crown dollar, and several small pieces of silver with bars on one side and a medallion on the other, worth twelve and one half cents, (this currency long since passed out of circulation). My cash amounted to two dollars, a doubtful capital to resume my journey with. I had not yet exchanged a word with any citizen. As I was reflecting what was best to do, a short thick-set man, past the meridian of life, stopped near me to look at a passing canal boat. He was the first man I had seen, who did not appear to be in a hurry. He took from his pock- et a snuffbox and applied a liberal pinch to his nose, with evident satisfaction. Our eyes met, he noticed that I was closely observing him, he handed his snuff box towards me and said, "Will you have a pinch young man ? I thanked him for his courtesy, and replied that I was more in need of advice, that I had come to a stand- still was a stranger without money, and in search of some locality where I could spend the energies of my life with a fair chance of a reasonable compensation. The kind- ness of his nature led him to be interested in my welfare. He advised me to look no farther, that young energetic men were needed here, as it was the opinion of the best men of the village that it would grow to be a city. This opinion was based on its natural advantages, as it was 6 FROM A FOREST nearly the center of the state, with inexhaustable salt springs. His advice was to go to work here and help build up the place, and invest every dollar in real estate, that the rise of property would increase with my years. He gave me his name, and pointed out a little white house standing near the site of the Baptist church on West Genesee street, as his home, and said if he could help me by further advice any time he would do so if I would call on him. These few words so comforting to me cost him nothing. A half of a hundred years have passed by since they were spoken and every muscle and bone of his body has crumbled to dust. His kind words are as fresh in my memory as the hour in which he ut- tered them, and they are firmly impressed upon the minds of my family not to be forgotten so long as their lives last, thus proving the truth of the little song, " Kind words will never die, no never die." I followed his advice and with little difficulty found employment as clerk for the fall and winter in a store situated where the Court house now stands. I became acquainted with the original settlers and gained from them a knowledge of the early history of the place. Since that time more than fifty years have left their ex- periences with me, and their changes in the place, and sometimes when walking along our streets in a reflective mood, my feelings are beyond description, contemplat- ing the great changes that have taken place, and seldom if ever do I see the face of one that was a middle aged man at that time. They, with their unpretentious homes only exist in memory. Few men are left in Syracuse who TO A CITY. have personal recollections of its early history, and these year by year are growing less. Mr. Clark in his History of the county only gives the same space to Syracuse that he does to other towns. Mr. Clayton in his new History of the county should have de- voted a liberal space to Syracuse, but instead he has copied largely from Mr. Clark with but little additional matter. This is to be regretted as it would seem that his book might have been greatly enchanced in value by such a course. It was hoped and expected that Mr. Leavenworth would have given us a detailed account of the early history of our town. He was without doubt thoroughly familiar with the subject. Probably a large majority of the citizens of Syracuse have but little know- ledge of its history. It should be interesting to every citizen to trace the progress of Syracuse through its pe- riods of development from a mere hamlet to a flourishing city. For many years I took an active part in the com- pletion of many of the buildings that form the central portion of the town, and was acquainted with all the principal builders until the population was sixty thousand. It is only designed to give a history of many of the most important events occurring within the original boundaries of the village of Syracuse for a period of near- ly half a century. According to the title of this book my task is completed when Syracuse is chartered a city. My reminiscences will comprise short personal sketches of some of the early settlers and a description of their simple unpretentious homes, tracing Syracuse through its various periods of development from a forest to a city. Many 8 FROM A FOREST citizens now living in the fifth, seventh and eighth wards, will remember that a large portion of these localities were but little more than farming lands in 1848. EARLY HISTORY. In the year eighteen hundred the now central portion of Syracuse was a dense forest, covered by a thick growth of cedar, with here and there patches of higher ground covered with stately pines, and other varieties of forest trees. This was a continuance of the vast forest that stretched from the Adirondacks on the north to the pine forests of Pennsylvania. A hundred years ago the forest was cut by a few continuous roads, with here and there small clearings, peopled by pioneers from the eastern states, and where good water power was found small vil- lages sometimes sprang into existance. The streams were filled with salmon and trout and wild game abound- ed. So plenty were the wild animals in the forest where Syracuse now stands that a trading boat from Albany made a trip spring and fall loaded with goods to ex- change for furs and live bears, deers, and wolves and re- turned to Albany where the trader found market for these wild animals. The route traveled was by an old water way from tide water up the Mohawk to Rome, where a short portage was made to Wood creek, via. Oneida lake and Seneca river to Onondaga lake. The first white man who made this journey was said to be W. Greenhalgh in 1677. In the year 1788 Asa Danforth, with a few others, located at Onondaga Valley, and in TO A CITY. 9 1803, there were eight frame and several log houses, a post office established, and court was held there. In 1800 there were fifty-eight inhabitants at Salina mostly- engaged in manufacturing salt. Thus we see at these two points there was a nucleus of a village, while between the two where the center of the city is now, was an un- broken forest. The State by treaty with the Onondagas, held at Fort Stanwix a few years before the close of the last century, had acquired a title to a tract of this forest. In the year 1804 two hundred and fifty acres, the now central portion of Syracuse, was sold to Abram Walton. The proceeds of the sale were to be expended in building the Genesee turnpike through this section. On the 4th, of July 1817 amid the roar of cannon from the Arsenal at Rome, N. Y., the first shovelful of earth was raised from the ground by Judge Richardson as a commence- ment of the Erie canal, and soon after Elias Gramaer made a commencement in this county. The large num- ber of laboring men that were called here to perform this great work, remained as permanent residents, as they be- lieved that labor would be in demand in some branch of salt manufacturing. These new comers built themselves houses along the line of the canal, using slabs from the saw mill located here where good pine slabs could be bought for one cent apiece. For a few dollars, and three or four days work, a comfortable house could be built. It was surprising how comfortable these houses could be made (and comfort only was considered). A whole slab was used as a batten, the bark removed, the edges were thin, 10 FROM A FOREST and with plenty of nails could be made nearly air tight ; and the same material made a good roof. April 20th, 1820 the first boat made its appearance here, a small craft named the " Montezuma," from a place of the same name. This was the first great event in the place, it had been extensively advertised, and nearly every inhabitant for many miles around had gath- ered on the banks of the canal, anxious to see the great sight. The large crowd that had been standing for hours, became impatient ; from the first, there were many who believed the scheme was not practicable, and this faction was well represented in the assembled crowd, and many who had been standing expectantly for hours be- came tired and joined the doubters, who were shouting that " to-morrow you will hear that the " Montezuma" bumped her nose against the bank, and sunk before she had floated a mile, and we wish old Clinton had gone down with her, and sunk in the ditch he has made at our expense." While all this was going on, at once, there was a shout of " There she comes ! she is coming ! " A team of spirited horses had been fastened to the line at Jordan and as they passed the crowd of spectators, the horses were on a fast trot, a wave of water was forced wide over the low banks, and a loud shout arose from the excited crowd. This successful trip silenced all doubters and the canal was acknowledged to be a success. From that hour dates a new era in the history of Syracuse. All agreed that this water-way must result in great advantan- tages to the locality. Men of means came here and used TO A CITY. II their money freely in building storage and forwarding houses on the line of the canal. No place from Albany to Buffalo attracted so much attention as Syracuse, on ac- count of its salt interests. Among the few inhabitants here there was much enthusiasm, and the forest receded before the axe-man's stroke. Of all the enterprising men fav could equal Joshua Forman, and none could do more than he in laying the foundation for a permanent pros- perity. To his great energy, and ability, the undertaking and completion of the Erie canal is largely due. To him more than any other man, is Syracuse indebted for what it is to-day. He located at Onondaga Valley in 1800 and opened a law office. He early became interested in founding a town that would ultimately became one of importance, and for many reasons he believed that neither of the three rivals, Salina, Onondaga Hill or Onondaga Valley should be the centre of this town. But to the clear and discerning mind of Judge Forman he believed it must be on a line of navigation through which much of the commerce of the state must pass. Accordingly he left the Valley and located where is now the centre of Clinton, between Water and Washington streets. At that time the greatest number of buildings were standing on what is now West Genesee street. Streets had no ex- istence then. A wagon road from the Valley leading to Salina, crossed the Genesee turnpike at the canal bridge on Salina street west of Salina and south of Water street. The block where the Weiting Opera House and many other elegant and costly building are now standing, was 12 FROM A FOREST then a grove of stately pines. The small trees, and all the under brush had been removed, and sufficient sunlight found its way through the scattering pines, to give life to the wild grass. Here was the little white house of Mr. Forman. The grounds west, nearly to the creek, were soon transformed into a garden, where beautiful flowers and fine vegetables grew under the care of the gardener; it was a place of rare beauty for those times, here a lover of nature and rural life, could be content, among those pines clothed in evergreen with such peculiar foliage, that they never cease responding in low murmurs to the passing breeze. In this beautiful pine grove the first celebration of the 4th, that was eyer held in Syracuse took place in 1820. As before stated a section of the canal was com- pleted and several small boats could be located here. It was proposed to have a grand celebration of the 4th, which in those days was entered into with vastly more spirit than now, for many were then living, who had taken part with and followed the great Washington in skirmish and battle. One of the attractions, was a ride on the canal. The people of the present day will be surprised that so novel was this considered at that time, that the Govenor of the state with many other cele- brities, as well as many from all parts of the state, and inhabitants for miles around were here to see and take part. The programme was carried out in all it appoint- ments. Thaddeus M. Wood was called to preside, and in a short and brilliant speech, for which this man was so won- derfully distinguished, dwelt upon the great achievements of the day they celebrated, and upon the inexhaustible TO A CITY. 13 mines of wealth contained in their salt interests, and the postive assurance of an early and successful completion of a waterway through the state, which would afford them a cheap and easy transportation to the markets of the west and the tide water east. In view of this great advantage, in part only enjoyed by any other locality, it seemed postively certain that at no distant day instead of the shade of these pines, the shade of towering buildings would fall upon the ground where they then stood, that beautiful paved streets east and west would soon spring into existence populated by a happy and prosperous people. The oration was delivered by S. N. Hopkins, Esq., in which the same sentiments were continued in a most, eloquent manner. A lengthy account of this cele- bration appeared in a paper published at that time in Onondaga Valley, and read by the writer many years ago. Notwithstanding these flattering prospects so eloquent- ly expressed by Mr. Wood, there was a great drawback to the enterprise, one that seemed to dampen the ardor of the bravest heart. Syracuse had the reputation which seemed to be well supported, of being the most un- healthy locality in the state and to use the language of that time " it seemed to be the abode of pestilence and death," especially while the canal was being dug which un- doubtedly added to the other causes of sickness, and few of the canal laborers escaped the fever and many died. Thirty of these poor fellow were buried near where Fayette crosses Clinton street. Their lonely graves were then shaded by the tall forest trees that were standing near. The busy throng that now surges to and fro 14 FROM A FOREST through that locality are not aware of this fact. Some who had located here with the expectation of remaining and had built small frame houses, tore them down and removed them to more healthy locations. This most serious difficulty was to a great extent obviated by Judge Forman who believed there could be but little prosper- ity unless a healthy condition could be restored and like a skillful physician, was determined to find the cause if possible and then proceed to obviate it if it was in the power of man. He took a careful survey of Onondaga creek and lake, and found that the lake was nearly on a level with some of it surroundings when the water was highest and it set back from the creek and lake, and flood- ed the low and swampy lands. After making a survey of the outlet of the lake in the Seneca river, he believed it was possible to lower the lake several feet by making its outlet much wider and deeper. He petitioned the legis- lature for an appropriation for this purpose and also for surveys and maps for a thorough system of drainage. A part of the expense was to be a local tax upon the lands as they were benefited. This work was completed in 1822-23. The lowering of the lake produced a salutary effect ; what was marsh and swamp became dry land, yet there were some pools which stubbornly resisted. Ditch- es were dug from these to the creek and some traces of them still remain. The last pool or frog pond that I re- member was located where the Farmer block now stands, on the corner of Madison and Warren streets. A sewer was constructed by Bradley Gary to the creek, and this pool was drained and filled up. The residents on War- TO A CITY. 15 ren street would be surprised if they could see that local- ity as it was in 1828. There was a hill where Onondaga crosses Warren street. North of this point was a deep ravine with a brook running through it, the banks of which were lined with flags and rushes, through which the muskrat and mink had made paths in their nocturnal visits to the old mill pond. Before this ravine was filled a buckboard on which three mechanics were riding down the hill, broke, and one a Mr. Hamilton was run over and his collar bone broken, he was carried to the nearest house a quarter of a mile distant where he was cared for. This accident is referred to as shewing the condition of the road bed here at that time. A few years after the ravine was filled and the road made level. The thorough system of drainage with the lowering of the lake, though expensive, proved most salutary in its effects upon the health of the inhabitants and prosperity was again re- stored and many who had desired to locate here, but had been restrained from fear, now came with confidence. THE NAME OF SYRACUSE. Previous to the year 1820 the place had been known by several different names. For the first twelve years it had taken its name from the first hotel, and while Mr. Bogar- dus was proprietor it was called Bogardus' Corners. It was next called Cossit's Corners, and South Salina. The latter name was not popular on account of feuds, and petty jelousies existing between the two places, and for the want of a better name it was called Milan, for three l6 FROM A FOREST years, but that was not generally liked. At'this date there were not far from two hundred inhabitants scattered about the vicinity. They were called together for some business purpose, when incidentally the vexed question of a name arose for discussion. Judge Forman made a short speech in which he stated '.hat it would seem that they had arrived at that point when they should decide upon some permanent name; that he had always felt it would grow to be a place of importance, and should therefore have a good name. He said Corinth had always been a favorite name ever since he first read Grecian his- tory, (probably the most of his hearers had never heard of such a place) and he then gave them an account of this Grecian city. I am indebted to the traditions of the first settlers for this information. It is now impossible to re- late what he said on this occasion. He might, and probably did say, something to this effect, " We must confess that thus far, for fifteen years we have been vacillating be-. tween several different names for the town, whose foun- dations we all desire shall be well laid. If we now select the name, Corinth, and should it bear that name as long as its Grecian namesake, some relic worshipper might look down from some of our hill tops five thousand years hence upon an ancient city, extending miles to the south with its spires and glittering domes and say, here is a city whose origin is lost in the night of ages. For Cor- inth the Grecian city was founded long before Homer wrote the siege of Troy. It was one of the finest cities of Greece, adorned with the most sumptuous buildings, its public squares and temples, its theatres and porticos TO A CITY. 17 were famed in antiquity. The forum surrounded by temples and adorned with statues and columns. Here was the statue of Diana of the Ephesians and the Tem- ple of Fortune, with its statues of Parian marble." It is certain, if we can rely upon the statements of the first settlers, that Mr. Forman christened our town Corinth, and in all probability instead of living in the city of Syracuse to day we should be living in the city of Cor- inth, had it not been prevented by a mere accident. Some time during the year 18 19 Mr. Wilkinson with others petitioned for a post office to be established in Corinth, N. Y., and himself for Postmaster. He soon after received his appointment, but the application for the name of the post office was rejected in conse- quence of there already being one in the state by that name. Within a few years our city has been flooded with pamphlets filled with advertisements, and for the purpose of inducing the people to preserve and tolerate them, have contained a few pages of the early history of Syra- cuse, in every instance quoted verbatim from Mr. Clark's history of Onondaga, and when they arrive at the name of our town they simply say Mr. Wilkinson named it Syracuse. The Yankee is renowned for his inquisitive proclivities, which in him seem an innate principle and is demonstrated in the character of the boy who cut the bellows in pieces to find out where the wind came from. Should one of our inquisitive inhabitants start out with the view of finding out the " whys and wherefores " that gave our city the name of Syracuse, I will venture to say he might continue his inquiries until he had interrogated 2 18 FROM A FOREST every citizen, and all would have the same reply, " I do not know." On this subject I have an item of inter- est that came to me by the merest accident. In taking a walk one Sunday morning in June 1855, I passed Mr. John Wilkinson's on James Street. His garden was ex- tensive, bounded on the north by James, and on the south by Hawley street and surrounded by a high, tight board fence. The wide gates happened to be open. I could not pass so beautiful a sight without stopping to take in the prospect. The fragrance of the blooming flowers, the pebbled walks, winding here and there among the deep green shrubbery, trailing vines, some in flower, others in their rich foilage clinging to arches that were formed over the walk, beyond a rustic moss covered bridge, near which were rockeries encircled with wild flowers, and artificial mounds covered with a well clipped turf, and bordered with flowers and foliage plants. Near the centre of this extensive garden of beauty, more prominent than all its other attractions, clothed in a thick growth of English ivy, was standing twenty feet of the trunk of a forest tree that had been a monarch here long before Father LeMoine discovered our salt fountains, or the supposed Spaniard chiseled the date 1520 on the stone at Pompey Hill. While thus feasting on this scene of beauty Mr. Wilkinson's voice was heard, he was seated in a woodbine covered summer-house with news- papers and magazines by his side, he said : " walk in sir ! walk in ! my garden is extensive, you are at liberty to walk through it." After taking a half hour stroll, I re- turned to the summer house thanking Mr. Wilkinson for TO A CITY. 19 giving me so much pleasure, and remarking that I had just finished reading his namesake, Sir. J. G. Wilkinson's Popular Account of the Ancient Egyptians, that I was indebted to him for a description of a garden that was in full bloom on the Nile four thousand years ago, and then perfectly represented and carved in detail on the owner's tomb. He said u you interest me, will you give a des- cription, as I have not seen the book you refer to." This I was able to do ; he then remarked that he always took great pleasure in reading well written accounts of ancient cities now in ruins. That owing to this love of antiquity our young city was christened after one of them. That soon after leaving the Academy at Onondaga Valley he was in New York, and while there called at the house of a friend, not finding him at home, and deciding to wait an hour or two, he was seated in his friend's library. He took up an English publication which contained a lengthy poem on the subject, " Syracuse," his eyes had not glanced over more than a dozen lines before he became deeply interested. It was a prize poem by Edward Stanley, and had won the chancellor's prize at the University of Oxford. The poem commenced with a description of the island of Ortygia long before the foun- dations of the ancient city of Syracuse were laid. He then gave the myth of the beautiful nymph Arethusa, who while bathing in the river was seen by the hunter Alpheus, who became enamored with her but, the nymph not re- sponding to his ardent love fled to the island of Ortygia at Syracuse. When about to be overtaken by Alpheus, the nymph prayed to the godess Diana for protection, who 20 FROM A FOREST changed her into a fountain which ever after was called Arethusa. Being deeply interested in the poem Mr. Wilkinson began to study the history of Syracuse, and the geography of its surroundings. He found a wonderful similarity between the celebrated fountain and our own lake, more careful study revealed the closer resemblance between the two, they were nearly the same size, on the margin of both were springs of salt and fresh water ming- ling together. It was believed by many that there was an underground passage from some distant salt deposit which supplied our salt springs. In like manner there was said to be an underground passage that led to the foun- tain at ancient Syracuse. The old historian Strabo as- serted that a cup thrown in a river many miles away would float underground and make its appearance in this celebrated fountain ; and what was most astonishing, our lake as well as the fountain might be said to have a clas- sical history. F. Creuxieus published in Paris in 1656 ten books, in which our lake and the fresh and salt water springs were described as most wonderful. W. Greenhalgh in a jour- ney from Albany to " ye Indians westward, begun May 20th, 1677 and ended July ye 14th, following," described the same. These ancient writers after describing our lake as an object of great beauty, say that " what is the most wonderful is that springs of salt and fresh water each bubble up from the same hill." Mr. Wilkinson said to complete the similarity between the two places, there was a town on the north of the Sicilian Syracuse, named Salina. As before stated it was necessary to find a new TO A CITY. 21 name for our Postoffice, accordingly a committee was ap- pointed from the few inhabitants, consisting of Judge Forman, Rufus Stanton, Mr. Wilkinson, and two others. The proposed plan was that each should select a name and from those submitted choose the one that seemed best adapted. Judge Forman speaking first, said he had recently selected a name which was his choice above all others. He had believed the town would bear the name of Corinth as long as its Grecian namesake, but its short existence demonstrated the uncertainty of human ex- pectations, he would therefore decline to propose another name. Mr. Wilkinson then proposed the name of Syra- cuse, and gave for his reasons what is above stated. This name was selected by a unanimous vole and gave general satisfaction among the inhabitants. So much for the name. I have given this statement in some detail, as I think it will be new to many readers. I was recently in conversation with quite an old resident, of average intelli- gence, who remarked that Syracuse was an Indian name. This ignorance in regard to the name, which is to some extent common, will justify my efforts. Every good citi- zen should take pride in our town and have some knowl- edge of its Sicilian namesake. It is probable that very few of cur citizens will ever overlook the plains where ancient Syracuse once stood; her beauty and glory is not there; it is only to be found on the historian's page. It was in its greatest prosperity 320 years B. C. I am sad when I think I can never overlook, from its surrounding heights, the plain where it once stood. If mighty names and events crowd upon the mind when we simply read 2 2 FROM A FOREST the name Syracuse, what vivid historical associations must be awakened by the soil itself. It was extolled by Cicero as the most beautiful city in the Grecian world; it was the scene of some of the greatest personages and events of antiquity: of Gelon's patriotism, of Harmo- crate's valor, and Dyonysius' genius. It baffled Carth- age; it crushed and captured the proudest armada equip- ped by Athens, in the plenitude of her power, and after opposing the science of Archimedes to the strength of Rome, it was lost only by the drunkenness of its guards during the night of Diana's festival. Its fate stirred compassion even in the heart of its rugged conqueror. When Marcellus looked down, at morning, from the heights on the whole expanse of Syracuse, the sight of its palaces and temples glittering in the sun, of its harbors so lately impregnable, and its fleets so lately invincible, the recollections of its ancient glory, the knowledge of its impending fate, and the importance of his own victory, impressed him with such emotions that he burst into tears. After a lapse of more than two thousand years, if our citizens could look down upon it from the same spot, they would see the scene of desolation complete. The beautiful groves, palaces and temples, have all disap- peared, and the arid rock alone remains where the ser- pents bask, and the solitary wild flower is unbent by human footsteps. The great events in the life of our namesake may fail to interest the reader. I have care- fully delineated the laying of the foundation of our city, which has nearly completed its first century of life. The first hundred pioneers who built homes of logs TO A CITY. 23 and slabs, like their humble dwellings, have long since mingled with the dust of the past. The plot of ground once devoted to their graves, and the simple marble slabs inscribed " Sacred to the memory of the first settlers of Syracuse," have been removed by unfeeling hearts and hands, and railroad depots now occupy the ground where thousands daily arrive and depart, who know not, and care not, whose graves are under their feet. " Let the dead bury their dead," is the motto now as of yore. We are living in a fast age, that has but little interest in historic shanties, or things of the past, or anything else that has not some direct bearing on dollars or cents. This is to be regretted, for we cannot have a firm grip on the future unless we know something of the past. By the development of mankind to a higher civilization, our city, unlike Syracuse of old, is no longer in fear of invad- ing foes from without; our danger lies in foes from within — greedy and dishonest officials who have more regard for their own pockets than for the welfare of the city. These are foes that are sapping the life and prosperity of our city. It is to be hoped that the same advancement as in the arts and sciences, which have so wonderfully marked the present age, will be seen in the near future, in the development of a higher manhood, a growing love for right and justice. When greed and dishonesty shall be unknown in municipal governments, when our city shall be free from intemperance, vice and injustice, then we shall be on the road to a true greatness and lasting prosperity. 24 FROM A FOREST THE OLD RED MILL. In 1804 Mr. Walton purchased from the State 250 acres, the now central portion of Syracuse. There was a stipu- lation requiring him to build a mill and a public house on the tract purchased; accordingly he located the mill in 1805 on the bank of the creek where the High School building now stands. It will thus be seen that this part of West Genesee street was the original center of life and activity in Syracuse. It was here in this mill that the first wheel made its first revolution to give motion and power to machinery so essential to the life of any town. Around this point the primitive dwellings of the first set- tlers were placed. This was the locality of the first church and school-house, and all was due to the influ- ence of the mill. As years went by it became venerable with age and was known by the name of "'the old red mill," and it has been the theme of many an interesting page of history. The first settlers of Syracuse reverenced the old mill, and all were capable of telling some story of interest connected with it. One little incident regarding the old mill came to my knowledge a short time ago, and I think would be read with interest. The story was told me by an old lady now living on one of our most beauti- ful streets and in an elegant mansion. She said that more than sixty years ago she went to this mill carrying on her back a bushel of corn and returned home carrying the meal in the same manner; and, the old lady added, "it did not hurt me either." Now in these later days, when some of her grand-children object to doing some TO A CITY. 25 little task thinking it beneath the dignity of their position, she relates to them the story of the old red mill and the bushel of corn. I think we may all draw a lesson and a moral from the story*. In 1807 a freshet swept away the first dam; the second was built where West Water street crosses the creek, and a raceway was constructed from that point to the mill. On this raceway there was a mill to convert flaxseed into linseed oil, also a sawmill where in 1825 good pine lum- ber could be purchased for three or four dollars, and hemlock at two or three dollars a thousand. Trade was not active at these prices. Fred Horner was sawyer in that year; he was a man of great strength and liked his business, and could boast of receiving a call from George Washington to inspect a mill that he was running in New Jersey. I lived within a few rods of one of Mr. Horner's sons, and he never tired of telling stories of the old red mill and the finding of Indian relics in the vicinity. When it was decided to remove the mill dam, to improve the health of the town, the Syracuse Company employed Mr. Youngs to dig a raceway connecting with the channel of West Water street from the weigh-lock, and in doing so he removed an old pine stump under the center of which he found the skeleton of an Indian and a hatchet, knife and other trinkets, also a jar of paint which was still fresh. By the antiquity of the designs of these articles it was quite clear that they must have been brought here two hundred years ago by the Jesuits, a religious order of the Catholic church, founded by Ignatius Loyola in Paris in 1534, with the object of carrying their religion 2(5 FROM A FOREST over the whole earth. A mission was established in Quebec in 1633, and from this mission for fifty years missionaries were sent to nearly all of the Indian tribes. Our first school-house was built On Church street; it was a hip roof with a high ceiling inside, and for several years all the religious meetings in the place were held here. The first sermon preached by a Baptist clergyman, also Unitarian, Universalist, and I think Presbyterian, were preached in this school-house. In February, 1821, was organized the First Baptist society with a member- ship of thirteen persons. The Baptist Seminary at Ham- ilton offered to provide for preaching every Sunday, in the school-house, on condition that those interested should furnish a horse and saddle which should become the property of the Seminary. Mr. James B. Moore had just bought a fine horse in exchange for sixty bushels of salt at one dollar per bushel. He was notified one day that this little religious society had voted that his horse had a providential call for this purpose; he at once added his vote, and the horse was sent to Hamilton. It was thought that Mr. Moore was a good generous Christian, for he was a strong Methodist and never a member of the Baptist society. This unsectarian and Christian act was characteristic of Mr. Moore; he spent what money he had in building up the place; he was a good citizen, de- voted to his wife and family, and for his good deeds was granted to him the prayer recorded in Tobit viii , 7 : " Therefore mercifully ordain that we may become aged together." Mr. Moore and his good wife lived to see more than eighty years, and both died from old age on TO A CITY. 27 the same day and were buried side by side in one grave. In June, 1823, the society secured the Rev. N. I. Gilbert for pastor, and the next year laid the foundation for their church where the Universalist church now stands. In those days there was no ceremony at the laying of the corner stone. Mr. Bicknel and David Saf- ford were the carpenters. When the sills were placed on the walls and a rough floor laid, the people in the little village were notified that their services were needed to raise the timbers, and the most of the population were on hand to help and to see. Frame buildings were not raised in those days as now — a stick at a time, but in sections called bents. After these sections had all been put together ready to raise, the people had assembled, and the men ready with their pike-poles in their hands, the Rev. Mr. Gilbert stepped forward on some timbers and, raising his hand, made a most earnest prayer, — that God would bless their effort, and that great good might come from it; that the society might grow in numbers and usefulness; that God would be with their pastors in years to come, and that nothing but orthodox religion might ever be preached within its hallowed walls. At the word Amen the signal was given and the first section rose up in its place, and a shout from the people fol- lowed. I might add that the prayer was answered during that generation. In 1848 it became a theatre and was used as such for some years, where the gospel had been preached so long. In 1869 it was purchased again for church purposes by the Universalist society. 28 FROM A FOREST THE EMPIRE HOUSE. The Empire corner is a historical place in Syracuse, as it was the first building lot sold, and was conveyed by Mr. Walton in 1805 to Henry Bogardus for the sum of $300. It contained one-half acre. There was a stipula- tion binding the purchaser to build a public house within a reasonable length of time. Accordingly, in 1806, Mr. Bogardus built the hotel. It was thirty-five by forty-five feet in size and two stories high, and was the first frame house built in the town. It is spoken of as the old Man- sion House yet it never was an old building, as its age was but thirty-eight years when it was removed. It probably received this title on account of its shabby appearance. Both Mr. Clark and Mr. Clayton in their histories of the county are mistaken in the time the house was removed to give place for the present building. The Empire was commenced in 1844 an d the stores were occupied in 1845. McCarthy & Co. first commenced business in Syracuse here, also Hutchinson & Williams, Tomlinson & Sharp, the Gages, Phillips, Teffts and many others. These stores in size and finish greatly surpassed any thing here- tofore seen in Syracuse. They soon became popular and a great rivalry sprung up between the occupants as to who should draw the greatest trade. Extravagant advertising was resorted to. Mr. Stillwell occupied a boot and shoe store and for a sign and advertisement placed in front of his store an immense boot, ten feet high and six feet in circumference. Hutchinson & Williams advertised their store by poetry composed by Mr. Williams, who claimed to have a machine that would grind out the verses when- TO A CITY. 29 ever " Seth " turned the crank. Mr. Williams has since been known by the name of " Seth," and many think it is his true name. As " Seth " is still well known I will give a sample of his poetry that appeared in a Syracuse paper over forty-five years ago. The " Great Empire " with lofty spire Towers towards the skies, Her wide spread wings, to the breeze, she flings Her name o'er earth it flies. Her spacious halls and corridors The strongest nerve will charm, In richest taste and elegance She's carrying off the palm. Hold on "Seth."— The " Tall Pine " of Lysander won't thank you for puffing the " Empire." Give us now something for the " Red Sign " and Hutchinson & Williams the Great Reg- ulators in Dry Goods. Screw up your machine to No. 8 and try again. — Turn. Fall has come ; Winter is coming, To the " Red Sign " all are running, Some for a cloak, some for a vest, (For they sell the cheapest and best,) They dress the young, they dress the old, They protect their shivering limbs from cold, Their cloths are good, the colors true, Blue, black, brown and indigo blue, Ottoman dress goods, rich and rare, Walk in ladies ! view with care The Royal Purples. The blue and green Such beautiful hues are rarely seen, 30 FROM A FOREST Come, Farmers, come, for novfs the day Harness up your horses gay, For your wheat is thrashed and milled, Your pocket now with cash is filled, So hurry up your fine bay team, Crack the whip, put on the steam You'll soon see the bright " Red Sign," It's time to stop, haul in the line, Boys dismount. The number 's Eight, The cheapest store in any State. Mr. Tomlinson, the builder and owner of the " Em- pire," was killed by the cars at Little Falls in 1848. The "Empire" was sold on a foreclosure, and Mr.Taylor, of New Jersey, became the purchaser. In 1850 Mr. Voorhees became the owner, and after a few years it was sold to Mr. White who still holds it. The advent of Jenny Lind in New York created the most unbounded enthusiasm throughout the country, and when it was announced that the sale of tickets to the Lind concert in Syracuse would take place at the office of the Empire House, the streets in front of the office were filled with the most excited crowd that was ever seen in Syracuse, long before the hour arrived for the sale of tickets. There had been no preparations made to facilitate the rapid sale of the tickets, and when the doors were opened ihe excited and determined mass of people rushed in as though they had been shot from a gun and crowded one upon another with such force that the less strong were in imminent peril of being crushed to death. Some fainted and others cried most piteously for help. This class were raised upon the heads and shoulders of the crowd, and in this way TO A CITY. 31 were helped out nearly dead from fright and exhaustion. John Hern, a slender fellow, was thrown with great force against the side lights of a door, severing the arteries in his wrist, and he came struggling out head first over the shoulders of the solid mass of human beings, with his arterial blood spurting out at every heart throb. None but those possessed of a giant's strength attempted to enter the crowd. Twenty-five dollars were freely offered as the reward for procuring a ticket. The corner of Salina and Church streets is the location of the first circus grounds, and it was here that the first circus and horse show that was ever held in Syracuse took place. This circus in 1825 was so well attended by the Indians and white people that Mr. Van Patten built a circus house half way between Salina street and Willow street bridge. About 1840 Wm. A. Robinson bought this corner and opened the first temperance hotel in Syracuse — The Onondaga House. This property is still owned by his children. The old circus house was converted into stables to accommodate the patrons of the new temper- ance house. THE SYRACUSE HOUSE AND VICINITY. In the great family of mankind there is a wide diversity of tastes and opinions. Some, like x\lexander Selkirk, can find no charms in solitude, while others seem to delight in spending their lives in seclusion. There are evidences that some of this class, more than a hundred years ago, built their lonely cabins in the forests of our county. One of these was erected near the corner of Genesee and Montgomery streets, when and by whom is not known; 32 FROM A FOREST but it is well known that Calvin Jackson lived in this cabin in 1800, and his son Alvin was born there. He was supposed to be the first white child born within the limits of Syracuse. Rufus Stanton was one of the first farmers in Syracuse. In 181 r he had his first acre of wheat where the Oswego canal crosses North Salina street, and when the canal was dug it divided this acre into two triangular pieces. In 1814 Forman, Wilson & Co. came into pos- session of the Walton tract, and the following year a twenty acre lot (a portion of which became the site of the Syra- cuse House) was so far reclaimed from the forest that Rufus Stanton grew a fine crop of grain on it, when it was seeded for pasture and surrounded with a rail fence. It extended no farther east than Warren street, but the heavy timber had been removed as far back as Mont- gomery street and allowed the rays of the setting sun to fall on the site of the old log house where Jackson had lived, which had so many years been in the forest shade. As the block on which the Syracuse House is located has for many years been considered the center of the town, a description of the first primitive buildings which surrounded it might be interesting. The buildings on the east side of Salina street, south from the Syracuse House, in the year 1829, were nearly all one story and a half frame buildings. First from the Syracuse House was Olmsted's grocery; second, Esq. Kasson's justice's office; third, Green's tailor shop; fourth, Archie Kasson's dwelling house; fifth, a small wooden building standing on the corner lot, which was rented to a Mr. Quick in 1829 for a shoe-shop at the extravagant rent of six shil- TO A CITY. 33 lings per week. On the next block south there were three small frame buildings and the little white church built by the Presbyterians. The next block, on the corner of Fayette and Salina streets, was the residence of Zophar Adams, who manufactured brick further down on the op- posite side of the street. Next south of Mr. Adams' house, lived the widow Stewart, and beyond her, in 1829, lived Olmsted Quick and John Husenfrats, which completed the list of houses on the east side of Salina street. It is not claimed that this cut of the original Syracuse House is correct in every detail, but it is correct in show- ing the style of architecture and giving the general appearance of the first building. It is from a description furnished ly Booth & Elliott, who were the first builders here in the earlier days of Syracuse, and also corresponds to the description furnished by Timothy Cheney, who was employed with Daniel Elliott to remodel it and change its appearance in every particular. It is doubt- ful if there is a person now living who has a distinct recollection of the first building. Its foundation walls were laid nearly seventy years ago, and there was then no other building near it. The log house in the distance shows the location where Calvin Jackson lived in 1800. In 1 823 there was a boom in Syracuse, and the previous year Judge Forman completed a system of drainage and low- ered the lake, which, to a great extent, removed the cause of "pestilence and death" that had been so prevalent here as to cause the place to be shunned by all but the most hardy. In 1823-24 the canal was nearly completed and salt was in good demand, in some cases bringing one dollar per bushel, :: 34 FROM A FOREST and many people rushed here with as high expectations as they did in later years to the California gold fields. Kellogg & Sabine laid out the lots east to Warren street. Each lot was twenty-five feet front, and the price was fixed at $220. The first lot sold was on the corner of Warren and Genesee streets, to Mr. Van Hosen who built a blacksmith-shop on it. Ezra Rhyne's story and a half house came next on the west side, and next to him was Jabez Halley's cabinet- shop. Joel Owens built a small frame house. Nearly all the buildings east of the Syracuse House, that were commenced in 1824, were one and a half story frame buildings. In the year 1824 the Syracuse Company bought from Kellogg & Sabine the original Walton tract with other lands, and about 1827 rebuilt the Syracuse House and surrounded it with bal- conies and ornaments, which added so much to its appear- ance that it was considered one of the finest buildings at the time in Western New York. The Company also erected several substantial buildings on the adjoining east side. These spacious buildings on the corner stood out in such broad contrast to the little insignificant build- ings east and south, that in 1834, by mutual agreement among their owners, a uniform block of brick buildings three stories in height was erected and named the Frank- lin Block. One had a stone front and is the only one that has not been modernized more or less. The Syracuse House was not built with the expecta- tion of a paying support from Syracuse, as there was not even a village here at that time; but from transient cus- tom from lines of stages, which was the only mode of TO A CITY. 35 public travel through the State, as at that time we had neither canals nor railroads. The middle-aged of to-day know but little of the hardships of travel in those days. We can journey across the continent now with less fatigue than we could travel across the State in 1820. Only a few years previous to the building of the Syracuse House the State became interested in laying out roads through the State, the principal thoroughfare being the Genesee turnpike. Soon after lines of stages were in running order on these roads, and hotels or taverns were erected at short distances for the accommodation of travellers. This mode of travel is so little known to the young and middle-aged people of to-day, that a short description may be read with interest, and also serve to show how one of the Mayors of the city made his first appearance in Syracuse. The old four-horse stage coach was a strong and crude contrivance and as uncomfortable a mode of travel as could be imagined, with its strong perfume of tar-grease and reeking horses. Steel springs not having been in- vented, the coach body was suspended upon heavy leather straps, and a large rack was fastened on the rear and called the " boot," where baggage was stowed away. The top was decked over and a strong iron railing placed around the outside of the deck to keep packages from falling off. When passengers were plenty and anxious to go, twelve persons were crowded inside, and I have seen nearly as many on the outside at the same time. Five miles an hour, under such circumstances, was astonish- ing velocity. A journey from Albany to Buffalo in those 36 FROM A FOREST days, for ladies and gentlemen who were not strong, was undertaken with much reluctance; for sea-sickness was as common on such journeys as on a voyage across the ocean, as the egg-shaped box suspended on these straps, or belts, had the motion of a rocking-chair. At that time, when the country was comparatively new, many swamps and forests were encountered in building roads. These swamps were bridged over by logs being laid close together across the road and filled in between with coarse gravel which was soon partly forced out, and the most intolerable road was the result. As the stage went thump- ing and jolting, log in and log out, over this road the motion of the stage-coach resembled the action of the walking-beam of a high-pressure engine, and those occu- pying the rear seat would have to grasp, with both hands, the straps that were provided to hold on with, to prevent their being thrown headlong from their seats. Under such conditions passengers who were not strong would soon tire out and be compelled to stop at the taverns and rest until another stage was due, sometimes requiring a week, in such a case, to make the trip from Albany to Buffalo. In those days there was but little travelling for pleasure, yet it was an improvement over what had been, and travellers were satisfied because they knew of noth- ing better. Although many hardships were encountered, the journey was not altogether void of attractions, — such as the deep dark forest with its towering hemlocks and pines, with here and there a little clearing with a log house and a feeble attempt to cultivate the soil. The scenery was varied and sometimes interesting. The pas- TO A CITY. 37 sengers were social, and many a warm and lasting friend- ship had its origin in the old stage-coach. The drivers were a hardy class of men capable of great endurance. This was a necessity, as they were exposed to many hard- ships which they bore with great cheerfulness. In the year 1822 there was a great excitement throughout the length of the Genesee turnpike, in consequence of an opposition line of stages from Utica to the west. There were Vanderbilts in those days, and everything possible was done to make this new line a success. Its coaches were superior to any that had been used before; the horses were the best that could be found, and the drivers were selected with the greatest care. At that time there was a young blacksmith in Utica, who had applied for a posi- tion as a driver on the new line. It was soon found he had a great knowledge of horses, and that, with his lively and energetic manner, won for him the privilege of select- ing his horses and coach from all that were to be placed on the line; and as he had the best outfit, he was selected to drive out of Utica the first stage on the new opposition line, which was a great event in those days and was witnessed by a crowd of interested spectators. These pages may be of value to some young men who have life before them and no definite aim yet decided upon, to watch the career of this young coachman and emulate his example ; for none could commence life nearer to zero than he. All the regular instruction he ever had in school was gained in one winter term in a district school, and after spending five years to learn the blacksmith's trade he started out in the world to seek his fortune with 38 FROM A FOREST a cash capital of only eight cents. We see him next as I have described, on the driver's seat ready to leave on his western trip. The young coachman is filled with pride as " He tightens the reins and whirls off with a fling From the roof of the coach his ten feet of string; Now lightly he flicks the "nigh" leader's left ear," " Gives the wheelers a neighborly slap with the stock, They lay back their ears as the coach gives a rock And strike a square trot in the tick of a clock ! " " There's a jumble, a jar and a gravelly trill In the craunch of the wheels on the slate-stone hill That grind up the miles like a grist in a mill." " He touches the bay and he talks to the brown, Sends a token of silk, a word and a frown To the filly whose heels are too light to stay down." Thus the old stage-coach whirls along, up hill and down, through dark forests miles in extent, passing over tedious corduroy roads, then where cultivated fields line the roadside, with here and there humble dwellings, the homes of people who were living in quiet simplicity, never dreaming of the comforts and improvements of the present day. I always felt the greatest sympathy for this hardy class of people who endured great toil and hardships in clearing the forests away and preparing the soil for cultivated fields of waving grain. They seem to have been martyrs who wore their lives away in hard labor, that the next generation might enjoy the results. This young stage-driver that we have been describing, encountered nowhere between Syracuse and Utica a worse piece of road, or a more dismal prospect, than that TO A CITY. 39 between the hills on the eastern boundaries of the town and the Syracuse House. Every foot of the road-bed was made by laying logs close together through the swamp. Pools of water lined the sides of the road where Fayette park is located, and had a team of horses step- ped off this road-bed of logs they would have mired in the swamp and prcbably never regained the road. The approach from the east to the Syracuse House at that time was most unfavorable for a display of the stage- driver's skill. When within a mile of their stage-house where horses were changed, it was customary for the drivers to blow a horn to announce their arrival, and constant practice with this simple, straight tin horn en- abled some drivers to produce as much music out of it as from a key-bugle. At the first blast of the horn the weary, tired horses knew that their journey was ended, and taught by their drivers to make a display as they approached their stopping place, would quicken their steps until within a few rods of the house when they would spring into a gallop and, guided to the opposite side of the street, would cut a circle with the utmost precision as they whirled up to the door of the Syracuse House. 40 FROM A FOREST The skill of the drivers of the old stage-coach is well described in verse in " SONGS OF YESTERDAY." " The boys and the girls all abroad in high feather, The heads of the horses all tossing together. Flinging flakes of white foam like snow in wild weather, All swinging their silk like tassels of corn, 'Twas the drivers time ! And he whipped out the horn ! 'Twas the drone of king bees and a myriad strong — 'Twas fanfare ! and fanfare ! with a bugle's prolong, Chanticleer ! Chanticleer ! I am coming along !" " The bellows dropped down with a vanishing snore. The smith in black crayon gave the anvil the floor And leaned on his sledge in the cave of a door ; The landlord in slippers cut away at the heel, Shuffled out on the stoop at the rattle of wheel, Click-click — went the gates, and like yarn from a reel, Smiling women wound out and looked down the street Where the driver swung plumb in his oriole seat, The mail, chained and padlocked, tramped under his feet." " Ah, few whips alive in their cleverest mood Can write with a coach as old Benjamin could, And you ought to have seen the sixteen feet With their iron shoes on the stricken stone When they waltzed around in the narrow street To a time and a tune that were all their own, Like the short sharp clicks of the Castanet By the Moorish girls in a dancing set, When, as free as the sweep of a wizard's wand. Right-about with a dash came the four-in-hand ! 'Twas crackle of buckshot and sparkle of fire, And never a rasp of a grazing tire, As he cut a clean 6 and swept a bold 8, Like a boy that is trying his brand new slate ! " TO A CITY. 41 The stage-coach driver who made his first trip with but eight cents in his pocket I will now introduce to the reader as Jason Woodruff, a man who has a history in Syracuse. When he, with so much pride, wheeled up his coach-and-four in front of the Syracuse House door, he little thought that the dismal swamp through which he had passed would be the centre of a beautiful city, that the road-bed of logs would give place to paved streets lined with spacious dwellings, that just thirty years from that time he would fill the office of Mayor of Syracuse, and in the parlor of the Syracuse House in 1852 would introduce to the citizens General Scott, the hero of many battles, and in that year the chosen candidate of the Whig party for President of the United States. In the life of Mr. Woodruff we have a demonstration that the door to position and honor is closed to no young man, no matter how dark and cheerless his prospects may be at his commencement of life. It matters little what his occupation is if he has the ability to excel in his business. This stage-driver excelled all others on the road, gained the confidence of all he met, and found friends to assist him to step from driver to proprietor of a line of stages. He soon after erected a flouring-mill in the First Ward at a cost of thirty thousand dollars. During the destruc- tion by fire of Mr. Haskin's salt grinding mill Mr. Wood- ruff's mill caught fire and was destroyed. This was hard luck, as his insurance was very small. He was also unfortunate by having several thousand bushels of wheat in his mill, owned by Mr. John D. Norton. An expensive litigation followed between Mr. Woodruff and the owner 42 FROM A FOREST as to who should sustain the loss. Mr. Woodruff related the occurrence to me with much feeling, and said after a long period of litigation he called his family about him and gave them a history of the case and the stubbornness of his opponent, and said he would abide by their de- cision, as it would be their loss if he at last was beaten in the suit. They advised him to pay the claim and he did so, but it is evident that he never recovered from this misfortune, although he afterwards held many offices of responsibility for State, county and city. He was one of the trustees of the First Presbyterian church for 24 years. From 1831 to 1837 he discharged the onerous duties of bank manager under the United States banking system. The most remarkable building in our city is the Syra- cuse House. Charles Dudley Warner speaking of the antiquity of an Egyptian Sphinx, says : u All of the achievements of the race of which we know anything, have been enacted since that figure was carved. It has seen (if its stony eyes can see) all the procession of history file before it." In like manner we can say, that whatever history Syracuse may have, it has all transpired since the corner stone of the Syracuse House was laid. In the year 1820 Messrs. Buel & SafTord bought the twenty acres cornering here and commenced to build a hotel, the only resemblance to the present building being that it was built of brick. It was fifty feet square and two stories, with a basement. The roof slanted to the north and south, and the end walls were carried above the roof and called battlements, through which the chimneys were TO A CITY. 43 built. At that time, and for years after, a large part of the brick buildings were built in this way. During the erection of the building an accident happened by which two men fell. One man lodged on a joist and was badly hurt, but Mr. Safford fell to the cellar and was killed. This accident delayed the completion of the building, but it was finally finished in 1822 by Mr. Eckle. Many years later there was another accident also attended with loss of life while workmen were engaged in raising the south wing a story higher over the long dining-room. I was passing the house when I heard a scream. I looked up and saw a man falling from the top of the wall, his head striking the flagstone a few feet in front of me and burst open as it struck the stone. In a minute it seemed as if all the blood in his body was flowing over the side- walk. A minute before his strong arm was filled with activity and a long life of usefulness seemed to be spread out before him, in which by his industry he could build for himself and family a home of happiness and comfort. His life with all his hopes and anticipations in a moment's time had fled. His brother workmen, after looking down and seeing his fate, resumed their work without him. His lifeless body was carried away and a servant came out with a pail of water and a broom and cleaned the blood from the side-walk and all was over but the in- delible lesson that it had taught us of the uncertainty of life. These accidents lead us to reflect on the dangers and hardships incident to a mechanic's life, for which he seldom receives sympathy. The finger of scorn is sometimes pointed at the Syra- 44 FROM A FOREST cuse House on account of its obsolete and unattractive appearance, as it sometimes is with men who are unable to adopt the style that the conventional requirements of the times demand. It is true that every corner in its vicinity can boast of a vastly superior structure. It is also true that around this unpretentious building there is a history that, were it written, would be read with more interest than that of all its more stately neighbors. Forty years ago the first floor of the Syracuse House was four feet higher than it is now, with a platform and steps run- ning all around the house facing the street. This plat- form was of sufficient capacity to seat a hundred people, and was a popular resort for men of leisure to congregate and discuss the news of the day and the gossip of the town, which was always well ventilated here. There was also a class, who were well represented, that never entered into any discussion, and it was said that the vanity of this class led them here that they might be seen by the people passing by and be taken as guests of the house, as they were always picking their teeth. There was a young man, who was always in his place, that they called " young Jason," who was always seen with a cigar in his mouth, and was the subject of a bet of twenty-five dollars between two friends. One bet that the other could never find "young Jason" without a cigar in his mouth, meal time excepted. Three o'clock in the morn- ing was the time named by the party who was to find him without a cigar in his mouth, and accordingly at that hour the parties, with a witness, rang the door-bell of his father's house, which was answered by the father. They TO A CITY. 45 explained the natuie of their visit at that unreasonable hour to be a matter of business with his son which could not be delayed. As one of the parties was a railroad conductor their request seemed reasonable, and there- upon they were led to the sleeping-room of the young man where he was found fast asleep with a stub of a cigar an inch long in his mouth, his cheek covered with the ashes and the room filled with tobacco smoke. The bet was promptly paid and was the subject of much sport long after. The truth of this story I cannot vouch for, but as a warning to all who smoke to excess I can say that the young man was about thirty years old and weighed but ninety-six pounds. His early death was attributed to his excessive smoking which was undoubt- edly the cause. There was an unusual episode happened to the party that assembled on the Syracuse House steps one afternoon in the summer of '47. The day previous, Mr. Wise made a balloon ascension from an inclosure on the west side of Salina, between Fayette and Jefferson streets. As Mr. Wise took his place in the basket he made a speech in which he said he was to make an ascen- sion in Auburn the next day, and that he would bring to his friends in Syracuse the Auburn papers in advance of the fastest train. The next day the wind was in the south-east and no one expected Mr. Wise would keep his promise ; but, nevertheless, some person saw his bal- loon in a current that brought him over the city. It was at a great altitude and looked only the size of an apple. He made his descent in the First Ward, where a dray was sent after him and he was brought to the steps of the 46 FROM A FOREST Syracuse House in his balloon, where he delivered the Auburn papers. For the amusement of the crowd which had assembled, he made an ascension with much diffi- culty, and after sailing just above the tops of the build- ings in imminent danger of descending into the canal, he threw out his coat and then his boots, making a fair ascension, finally descending into a garden on West Genesee street. In the days of which I am writing there was no place in town where the political issues of the times were so fully and clearly discussed as on the platform of the Syracuse House. The names of those who were considered the best talkers were Wm. B. Kirk, "Chancellor" Orcutt, Isaac D. Lawson, W. Van Zandt, Joel Greeley and several others. When a quorum of these men were present there was always a fair audience of listeners. A few feet south of the steps was a tobacco and cigar store kept by Wm. L. Palmer, who sold tobacco by the year for a stated sum if smoked in his store. He kept a barrel of fine-cut under his counter, where those who paid for their year's supply went around and helped themselves. Tobacco was cheap in those days. This place was called "Tam- many Hall." When the weather or the hour of day was unfavorable for this crowd on the Syracuse House steps, it was understood that they could be found in " Tam- many Hall." I will explain the origin of the name as I understand it. There was a Delaware Chief whose name was "Tammany," and who died in the latter part of the eighteenth century. Societies in honor of his name sprung up in Philadelphia, New York, and other cities ; TO A CITY. 47 but that organized in New York, May 12, 1789, was the only one that survived and still exists. This society, originally charitable, became diverted to political uses, and in the hands of the Democratic party grew to be the recognized head of that party in this State. The little cigar store in the Syracuse House took its name from Tammany Hall in New York, and was the headquarters at that time of a class of men whose chief occupation and delight was to smoke and talk politics. I think in the days of slavery the common people were more interested in politics than now, as some scheme was constantly springing up in Congress to strengthen or combat this institution. Sometimes parties would spring into life headed by candidates for the Presidency, the result of some issue of the slave question. I will give an instance. A bill appropriating $2,000,000 to buy Mexican territory having been introduced into Congress in August, 1846, Mr. VVilmot offered an amendment providing " that as an express and fundamental condition to the acquisition of any territory from the Republic of Mexico, by the United States, neither slavery nor involuntary servitude shall exist in any part of said territory." This "Wil- mot proviso," as it was afterwards called, passed the House but not the Senate. It was the basis of the Free- soil campaign of 1848. Lewis Cass made himself decid- edly popular in the debates on this question. As the Mexican war approached a conclusion Mr. Cass's famous Nicholson letter made its appearance. This letter, dated December 24, 1S47, proposed to keep the question of slavery or its prohibition in the Territory to be acquired 48 FROM A FOREST from Mexico, out of Congress, by setting up for the legis- latures of the Territories an exclusive right of determin- ing their own domestic institutions equivalent to that possessed by the State. Mr. Cass made himself so popu- lar in this matter that he was chosen as the Democratic candidate for President at Baltimore in 1848. He found a formidable opponent in General Zachary Taylor, nominated by the Whig party on the strength of his mili- tary achievements in the Mexican war. I should not have referred to this matter, interesting as it may be, had it not been that I desired to introduce Mr. Cass to the reader, that I might relate an episode that happened to him on the Syracuse House steps. He was delivering campaign speeches through the country and was a guest at the Syracuse House. He was invited out by his friends to make a speech, and was standing on the steps facing Salina street when, during the most exciting part of his speech, he paused a moment to take breath, some wag in the little crowd shouted, " Hurrah for old Zach ! " This was followed by suppressed laughter from a number of inconsiderate Whigs. The effect upon the speaker and his hearers, by this interruption, can hardly be imagined. He seemed to have lost his subject for the moment, and to recover himself he turned to the insult- ing fellow and said: "I am sometimes called the Michi- gan school teacher, and I am proud of the title ; but let me tell you, sir, that there are two qualifications neces- sary in that branch, — one is to teach, and the other is to chastise. In your case I feel competent to do both ; but however deserving you may be I will only say to you, TO A CITY. 49 that it is a shocking breach of etiquette to hurrah for the opposite candidate at such a time as this." An interesting chapter might be written in relation to the celebrated men of our country who have, at different times, held their receptions and made speeches from the balconies of the Syracuse House. Such men as Wm. L. Marcy, who held the office of Governor of our State for three terms from 1832 and was defeated by Wm. H. Seward as a candidate for a fourth term in 1838; also General Scott, Henry Clay, John C. Fremont, and many others To follow back in the path of time and bring to life the incidents and subjects which seemed of vital importance and filled the public mind forty or fifty years ago would not be time wasted, as by this course we can best judge of the world's progress. The venerable should be respected. When we reflect that this was the first brick house built in this place, it is worthy of our admiration. Its walls have been heated scorching hot repeatedly during the destruction by fire of more pretentious buildings in its im- mediate vicinity, yet never but once was it in a blaze, and then but a few minutes during the greatest conflagra- tion that Syracuse ever experienced, in 1834. It has been so charitable as to pay the insurance companies, dining its long existence, many times its own value to enable them to make good the losses of its unfortunate neighbors. It is the nucleus, the central hub, around which a city many miles in circumference has sprung into existence. 50 FROM A FOREST CORNER OF JAMES AND SALINA STREETS. In 1807, Mr. Merrill built a small frame house on the east side of Salina near James street, it being the first building on that block. The place was so unhealthy that his family were sick much of the time, and becoming discouraged he pulled down his house and carried it away with him. At this date there were not more than half a dozen buildings between Syracuse and Salina; what is now North Salina street was then called Cooper street as nearly every building was used for a cooper's shop, there being only a crude wagon road cut through the woods. About half way between the two places a Mr. Blake had made a small clearing and commenced farming. As soon as the canal was completed boat building became a lively branch of trade. Deacon Spencer built a frame house on the corner where the Greyhound Block now stands. A part of the old house was torn down when the new block was built and was said to have been the oldest house in the city. He also opened a boat yard and commenced the building of boats in 1825. At a later date Mr. John Durston purchased the yard, enlarged it and added greatly to the facilities of boat building. In his yard there was never any con- troversy between capital and labor, and there never was a kinder man to his workmen. Forty or fifty years ago it was much harder for poor laboring men to get through the winter than now, as money was scarce and building came to a standstill. Mr. Durston put forth every effort to supply work in his yard for such needy people, and many families were thus made comfortable through the TO A CITY. 51 winter that otherwise must have suffered. The spacious and elegant memorial building erected by his sons is a worthy tribute to the memory of John Durston. In 1824, there were but three wooden dwellings on Salina street opposite the Empire, these were occupied by Dr. Colvin, Mr. Sacket and a Mr. Lewis. This locality was afterwards built up with wooden buildings. About the year 1838, George and Peter Wagoner erected the first brick store on this block, where the firm sold groceries at wholesale and retail for many years. In those days the side-walk in front of some stores seemed to have been claimed by the occupants for storage pur- poses. One day while hoisting hogsheads of sugar from the side-walk in front of Wagoners' store, a little girl in passing was caught by a hogshead as it swung clear from the walk and was so badly hurt that she was a cripple for life. A lengthy litigation followed which resulted in a verdict for two thousand dollars for the girl, which was paid. This row of old wooden buildings stood out in so great a contrast to the beautiful Empire, that their owners were ashamed of them, and about the year 1850, there was great carelessness with fire in that locality, and fires frequently occurred, but the old rookeries stubbornly refused to be cremated until during a drouth in July they all turned to ashes in a single night. Most of the substantial buildings seen there now were built soon after. As soon as the Erie canal was surveyed and the line established, wooden buildings were erected between Warren and Salina streets. The first building, placed where the Syracuse Savings Bank is now, was a 52 FROM A FOREST long two-story structure filling the space between the canal and James street, and was occupied by General Granger as a store, his family living in the north part of the building. It was placed at some distance from Salina street to give room for a fine plot for shrubbery and flowers which was protected by a fence painted green. On the Warren street corner was a wooden build- ing occupied by E. L. Clark as a store-house. About half way between Granger's and Clark's stood a rookery occupied by an old hunter and trapper named Cummings, who looked more like a gorilla than a human being; his wealth consisted in a lot of pet bears, wolves and wild cats, which he was anxious to exhibit to the passing boat- men for a small entrance fee. There were several build- ings all of which faced the canal, the gables and back yards facing James street, which was but little more than a wagon track at that time. Eleven of these buildings were burned on the 16th of March, 1834. On the site of the Granger store was erected in 1835 a three-story brick building, — in front of the second story there was a wide platform running the whole length of the building with three stone steps leading from Salina street. The lower floor contained two entrances, one from James street and one from the towpath. The second floor was used for shops and offices. George Tyler, a mer- chant tailor, occupied the south-west corner for many years. The Syracuse Star, and many other papers were printed in the upper story. It was called the "Star" building, and finally gave place to the Syracuse Savings Bank. TO A CITY. 53 WEST WATER STREET TO CLINTON. The south-west corner of Salina and Water streets where the Wieting Block now stands, was the site of a small frame building which was removed and gave place to a very substantial structure for those days, erected by Kasson & Heermans. The front faced Water street, with the greatest depth on Salina street ; this side was a blank wall with but a single opening of one small door on the ground floor, — in strange contrast to the handsome win- dows and doors of the Salina street front of the Wieting Block of to-day. The height was three stories, with battlements carried high above the roof, and did not escape what seemed an epidemic in those days of afflict- ing every brick building with a coat of white-wash, and from which it never recovered. The next building west was of wood, owned and occcupied by Mr. Malcom as a hardware store. Mr. Malcom 's house was located on the west corner of Salina and Washington streets; he used to go across the lots in the rear of the then shallow build- ing on Salina street and enter the rear of his house. West of Mr. Malcom's store to Clinton street was a row of wooden buildings used as shops and stores. Robert McClelland occupied a hat and cap store, D. & J. GrorT merchant tailors, Leslies' grocery store at that time was in one of these wooden buildings, — they were owned by the Syracuse Company. In 1842, this company cleared the west half of the block, and erected an unattractive but very substantial building of Onondaga limestone, and named it after one of their company, the "Townsend Block." The Syracuse Company was wealthy and en- 54 FROM A FOREST ergetic, and composed of some of the best men in the State, but to compare their buildings with those of the present, it would be seen that both the owners and their architects had very crude ideas of the beautiful. The Townsend Block remains to-day as it has for forty-six years, except that twenty feet of the east end was pur- chased at a great price and torn down by Dr. Wieting to enlarge the lot for his opera house. The brick build- ing on the corner of Salina street was occupied for several years by Chas. A. & Horace Wheaton, hardware merchants. This building burned down in 1849, the vacant lot was bought by Dr. Wieting who erected in 1850 the best building in the city at that time, with the exception of the Empire House. Dr. Wieting was a thoughtful and practical man, and in building his block did what apparently no other man had done in the con- struction of such buildings, that was, to study the wants of the people. Previous to the existence of this block there was not a public hall with a capacity sufficient for a town the size of Syracuse. He took this into consideration and fully supplied the demand. The ample capacity and elegance of finish of the hall met the requirements so essential in places of amusement, for without these an entertainment of high order could not be fully enjoyed. By this course he made the upper part of his building pay him as well as the lower portion, and his block has always been a good paying investment. The first Wiet- ing Block was burned January 5th, 1856. At that time the mercury was several degrees below zero, which made it a difficult matter to fight a fire of such magnitude. TO A CITY. 55 The spray from the leaking hose covered the firemen with ice. Mr. P. S. Stoddard, an insurance agent, seemed more desirous of protecting the interest of his companies than himself, his carelessness in exposing himself to the jets of water which froze as soon as they touched him was remarkable, and in a short time he was covered with a sheet of ice, which hung from the skirts of his coat to the ground, and gave him a most comical appearance. Dr. Wieting's energy would not allow an hour's time to be lost in constructing a larger and a more attractive block, and in less than a year he dedicated his new hall which was much more elegant than the first. This second block was burned in 1881. The building of the present block, with the opera house, is of so recent a date that a description is unnecessary. It is to such men as Dr. Wieting that Syracuse is indebted for much of its thrift. I know many men of wealth who have been doing a successful business for many years, who send their surplus money to western States for a larger rate of interest, and never pay a dollar to improve and beautify the city if they can avoid it. These men (and there are not a few) are leeches, gathering money from our city and sending it out of town. Dr. Wieting made his money to build his first block by lecturing in other cities. I think I heard the last lecture he ever delivered in his own hall, in which he gave a short history of himself, with the struggles and trials of his early life. Without cap- ital to start in life, with the disappointments and per- plexities of his first experience in the lecture field, how he overcame them all and continued to lecture until he 56 FROM A FOREST had earned one hundred thousand dollars, and as he was speaking he stepped forward on the platform of Wieting Hall, and raising his voice with much feeling said, "and I have spent the hundred thousand right here." CORNER OF WEST GENESEE AND CLINTON STREETS. Previous to the erection of the Clinton Block on the cor- ner of West Genesee and Clinton streets, the old Saleratus Factory standing here had been a prominent landmark in the center of the town from its early history, — the buildings, which comprised several stores, were built in 1824, by Booth & Elliott. At the time of their erection they were located in the best part of the town. One store was occupied as a book store, one with hats, and the third by Mr. Davis for dry goods. The growth of the town in other directions left these stores undesirable for their line of goods, and they were all used by James M. Taylor & Co., for the manufacture of saleratus, and during the remainder of their existence went by the name of the " Old Saleratus Factory." It did not escape the affliction of a coat of lime-wash colored with yellow ochre, so common on many brick buildings in those days. After manufacturing saleratus here for years, and making some money, Mr. Taylor moved to New York. This was a loss to Syracuse, for he was a very affable and en- ergetic man, admired by all who knew him, perfectly honest and upright with his fellow citizens. In 1847, the upper part of this old building was occupied as tenements for poor families only able to pay cheap rent. In that year I met Dr. Hiram Hoyt on the street one day in a great TO A CITY. 57 hurry. I asked him what was the matter? he answered, "come with me and we will see." We went to one of these tenements where a singular accident had happened. A little child had crept close under a window where a hammer had been carelessly placed on the parting sash, a gust of wind slammed the door, and jarred the hammer off, which falling struck the child on the skull. The Doctor placed the child on the table, and after an ex- amination took a pair of forceps and raised up the piece of fractured skull and the child was instantly restored to consciousness, — he let it slip off and the child was to all appearance dead, — he raised the piece from the brain and consciousness was quickly regained ; thus holding the child between life and death. Turning to me the doctor said, you now see what makes me doubt the im- mortality of the mind, as you plainly see when the organ of the brain cannot act there is no mind, which proves to me that the mind is the result of organization, and when that is destroyed, as I have here demonstrated, the mind ceases to exist. Under the skillful treatment of the physician the child was restored to health. After thirty- five years the old saleratus factory together with adjoin- ing buildings burnt on the 23rd of August, 1859. The most unfortunate result of this fire was that a spark from it ignited the tall spire of the First Baptist Church. The great height of the spire defied all efforts to extinguish the flames, and the new and beautiful edifice was soon in ruins. Three churches in Syracuse have suffered heavy loss from accidents to their spires. The First Methodist Church was at first built with a tall spire 58 FROM A FOREST which was destroyed by a thunderbolt and was replaced and a second time demolished in a high wind at the immi- nent peril of life and property adjoining. In 1852, the Unitarian Church and a dwelling near the church were entirely demolished by the falling of the spire in a gale of wind. This was a very remarkable catastrophe. It was supposed that the spire in its fall struck precisely on the ridge of the roof of the church, which slanted in opposite directions, with the rafters resting on the side walls, the great weight and velocity of the spire, acting as a pry upon every foot of the walls at the same moment, forced the walls out, and there was not a piece of the side walls left on their foundation a foot high. The east end wall fell on and completely demolished a frame house in which two ladies were sleeping together in the second story and they were found the next morning under the broken timbers of the house with all the brick wall on the top. After removing a great amount of timber and brick the ladies were extricated, and strange to say were not hurt in the least. It was supposed that they owed their safety to the fact that the bedstead had four strong up- right posts of four feet in height, and the upper floor in desending rested on these posts as the other floors and timbers gave way at the same time. It occurred about three o'clock Sunday morning, and as the hour for service approached the congregation assembled not knowing of the destruction of their house of worship until they came in sight of the ruins. The superstition and bigotry that exists in a less degree to-day I hope, than then, in- duced many of the Trinitarians to laugh with evident TO A CITY. 59 satisfaction at these heretics, and at the same time ex- pressing the belief that it was a judgment from heaven for their unbelief. So universal were these unchristian re- marks, that when the unfortunate congregation had all assembled around their demolished church, they ad- journed to meet at once in the City Hall. Their pastor, the Rev. Samuel J. May, preached a very feeling sermon. I think I could repeat much of what he said. He first exhorted his people to bear up under their unexpected misfortune, — stating that the first thing to be done was to compensate the man whose house had been destroyed by their falling walls. He then preached a sermon which was intended as a reply to the uncharitable remarks of the Trinitarians. His text was from St. Luke, xiii, 4, 5. <; Or those eighteen, upon whom the tower in Siioam fell, and slew them, think ye that they were sinners above all men that dwelt in Jerusalem? I tell you, nay; but ex- cept ye repent, ye shall all likewise perish." POWDER EXPLOSION. Between the old circus house and the Oswego canal stood the carpenter shop of Charles Goings, where the great explosion of powder took place. On the 21st of August, 1841, I was walking along North Salina street when I heard the cry of fire! fire! and at nearly the same time the church bells sounded the alarm. Soon after there came dashing along the street twelve or fifteen firemen dragging with the greatest enthusiasm their old style fire engine. The foreman with his speaking trumpet in his hand which he was swinging over his head hurry- 60 FROM A FOREST ing his men forward by shouting in the greatest excite- ment "let her jump! let her jump boys!" and all the men at the same time shouting "let her go! let her go!" The old machine seemed to bound over the rough cobble stones as though it scarcely touched them. This gallant company so anxious to save property from the flames, little thought that they were rushing into the jaws of death, that in a few minutes later their strong arms would lay powerless by their sides, and in a moment's time, life with all its hopes and anticipations would with them be at an end. As I watched them they turned from Salina into Willow street. I followed them and found the then narrow side-walk filled with a crowd of people, so I opened a gate and ran across the corner into the small lumber yard of Charles Goings, which was on the op- posite side of the street from the fire. The street in front of me was densely packed. I was standing between two piles of lumber two or three feet apart and eight or ten feet high. I thought I would climb to the top of the pile and thus have a good place to see. At that moment a shout was heard at some distance away " powder ! powder! there is powder there!" This seemed to pro- duce but little effect as it was thought to be a joke. The firemen had taken position on the bank of the Oswego canal and had just commenced to play upon the burning building when all at once there came a terrific explosion. The burning timbers and roof were hurled hundreds of feet in the air, and for a moment revealed a sight so dreadful and grand that it left a never-to-be-forgotten impression on every mind that saw it. The position that TO A CITY. 6 1 I had accidently and most fortunately taken had shielded me to a great extent from the effect of the explosion, and only those who were in places of comparative safety could describe the scene, as the minds of those in ex- posed places were a blank at the time of the explosion, and those but slightly injured were rendered unconscious and seemed to be in a condition similar to that when awakened from a troubled dream. Many were prostrate on the ground, some swept into the canal, others hurled against a tight board fence ; a part of the old circus building was blown in with those that were standing near it. The many who were prostrated seemed to all have the same sense of bewilderment and were moaning in the most pitiable voice, "where am I?" "what is this?" "what has happened?" The explosion had extinguished every particle of fire, the night was dark and the shrieks of the wounded and mangled, the low moans of the dying, trembling voices calling for relatives and friends who been standing by their sides and disappeared in a moment in the darkness, produced such a scene that a portrayal of it would excel in horror any description of Dante's "Inferno" or Goethe's "Dance of Death." When the lanterns and lights were brought, the scene of horror was beyond description, — twenty-six were found dead, ten others so seriously mangled that death to them would have seemed a blessing, and forty-three others seriously injured. The dead, dying and wounded were found lying in all conceivable shapes. One of the entire plates of the building, thirty feet in length, was stripped from all the rafters that rested upon it and 62 FROM A FOREST hurled into the air, coming down with one end on the ground and the other resting upon the old circus build- ing. Upon this slanting timber, ten feet from the ground, was found a man whose clothing had become tangled in the nails and held him fast, and when helped from his position he was, strange to say, still alive. The fire company that I saw rushing along the street in such hot haste were most unfortunate; their gallant foreman who swung his speaking trumpet and hurried his company forward, was a much respected merchant, Hugh T. Gibson. A flying timber had struck him under the chin and swept his head nearly from his body. He was iden- tified by a suggestion of Harlow DeWolf, who was a clerk in the store of Gibson & Tefft, and had noticed that Mr. Gibson had worn on that day a pair of pants the cloth of which was from a piece then in the store, — a sample was sent for and by this means he was identified as being Mr. Gibson without a doubt. The anguish of the mangled sufferers and the shock of this sudden bereavement, filled the whole village with sorrow. So universal was the sadness that nowhere could be heard merriment or laughter, every face seemed to wear the impress of sorrow and grief. The next day was Saturday, usually the busiest day of the week, but every store was closed and draped and the whole village was in mourning for the seventy-nine dead and wounded that were in their midst. The Sunday following was truly a day of sorrow and gloom; there were funerals in all the churches attended by nearly the whole population. There was a large fund contributed by the citizens for the sufferers. The owners TO A CITY. 6$ of the powder, Messrs. Hudson & Malcom, contributed $1,000 There was six hundred pounds of powder on the second floor of the building, — had the powder been on the lower floor, it was thought that few would have escaped with their lives. EARLY HISTORY OF BUSINESS ON SALINA STREET FROM WATER STREET SOUTH. A partial description of the corner of Salina and Water streets has already been given ; a more detailed history of this now very important corner may be interesting. William Malcolm was the first hardware merchant who made that business a specialty. The first merchants carried a general assortment of goods. Mr. Malcolm was an energetic and successful businessman; he located his store on what he supposed was the corner lot of Salina and Water streets. At that date John Lathrop had not completed his map for the Syracuse Company and lines were not so carefully looked after when land was cheap and the country was new. Mr. Malcom did not care to crowd his building towards Salina street, but preferred a good space for teams to load and unload on that side of his store. Mr. Archie Kasson made his appearance here a year later ; he had been engaged in the hardware business for several years previous and came here to continue the same. He desired to locate near the canal that his heavy goods might be rolled into his store from the boats. He proposed purchasing a lut a few rods west of Mr. Malcom's store. Mr. Malcom tried to persuade him that there was not trade enough to 64 FROM A FOKEST sustain two stores so near together ; Mr. Kasson thought differently and words passed between them. Mr. Kasson took offense and proceeded to investigate the precise boundaries of Mr. Malcom's lines which revealed the fact that there were thirty feet between Mr. Malcom's east line and Salina street, this Mr. Kasson at once pur- chased, and before Mr. Malcom was aware of what was going on, had commenced a small wooden building for a store. These neighbors did not harmonize, which re- sulted in Mr. Kasson moving away his building and erecting a brick store, thus closing up the windows and doors of Mr. Malcom's building on the Salina street side; this store (previously described) was sold soon after com- pletion to E. Lynds & Son, who in turn were succeeded by H. & C. A. Wheaton. For this account of the affair between the two men I am indebted to Daniel Elliott of the firm of Booth & Elliott, who were the earliest build- ers in Syracuse, and constructed the brick building for Mr. Archie Kasson. Mr. Malcom was considered one of the best men of the place and had the confidence of all that knew him. He bought and sold only the best, and goods bought at his store needed no other recom- mend ; they were always found just as they were rep- resented. He was kind and liberal to his customers, giving them long credit. In those days there were many poor people struggling to build their simple homes, and to this class Mr. Malcom was very kind. He had a remark- able power to discern a man's character and honest men were never refused credit at his store. These good quali- ties were remembered of him in after years, when some TO A CITY. 65 of those he had assisted became men of wealth and many- had some story to tell of Mr. Malcolm's kindness. In the year 1820 the canal commissioners opened a boat naviga- tion from the Salina canal to the lake and also to the Seneca river. Nearly the first use made of the new water way was to float the timber for a building to be erected on Salina street on the second lot south of Water street by James Pease, a young man from Lysander, who cut the timber from his father's farm, drew it to Bald- winsville, had it sawed and framed, the timbers ready to put together, shipped it on a scow and unloaded it on the bank of the canal near where the liberty pole is standing. In his new store Mr. Pease carried on the boot and shoe business for many years. Between Mr. Pease's store and the corner was an alley for teams to drive in the rear of the stores, and this alley was to remain open " forever," but to-day its precise location is obliterated by walls of brick and stone. As the years went by the Pease lot became too valuable for such a structure and the old wooden building was removed and a brick one took its place. The lower floor was occupied by the Mechanic's Bank and the upper one by Dr. Amos Westcott's dental rooms. This building was destroyed by fire with the Weiting Block and the lot purchased by Dr. Weiting. The next building south was of wood and erected by Mr. Kneeland about the year 1823. Most of these primitive wooden buildings on this part of Salina street would be of little interest to the reader who would not care for a description ; they were removed at nearly the same time, with the exception of the dwelling house of Mr. Malcolm 66 FROM A FOREST on the corner of Washington and Salina streets. Brick structures then took their place, which were very un- attractive in appearance, and if they could be seen for a day as they appeared about the year 1840, the street would be filled with citizens to observe so great a curios- ity in the way of architecture. There were four build- ings three stories in height, the fronts of the stores con- taining three doors, one over the other on each story with a window each side of the door; the doors made by nailing narrow strips together on an angle and were without a panel or moulding. Over the upper door was heavy timber projecting out over the walk with a chain and pulley for raising and lowering merchandise from the side walk to the lofts above; these chains, with boxes and barrels over the side-walk, made an unsightly appear- ance, and it sometimes happened that the chains with their huge hooks would be left hanging so low that it would painfully remind some elevated head of the fact when passing by unconscious of any danger. On one occasion a clerk was standing in the second story door- way when a sudden gust of wind blew the door against him with such force as to push him forward several feet, and he came down straight as an arrow, striking squarely on his feet, and strange to say, was not seriously hurt. In the year 1846 the principal business places on the west side of Salina street between Washington and Water streets were Bedell's hotel, D. Y. Foot's drug store, Ash- ley & Williston's furniture, S. P. Pierce, crockery, and Hall, Rhodes & Sherman, hardware store. The last named firm did a large business here for ten years. For TO A CITY. 67 many years Mr. Hall was an active politician, a Jack- sonian ; in 1831 he was elected sheriff on the Democratic ticket; in 1837 he was candidate for the Assembly but was not elected in consequence of the unpopularity of his party through Jackson's quarrel with the United States Bank and the financial crisis of that year. In 1838 he was appointed County Judge which ended his career in politics. His large acquaintance and popularity gave the firm of Hall, Rhodes & Sherman a trade that resulted in a financial success. They were succeeded by Strong, Fink & Penniman, and they in turn by Geo. and Giles Everson. Mr. Malcolm's wooden dwelling was the last of its kind left standing in the center of the town. It was about thirty by forty feet in size, the Salina street front was finished with plain ceiling, with pilasters between the doors and windows, and the old style oriel window in the gable; in appearance it had been the pride of the village, but the year before Syracuse became a city the old landmark bade adieu to the centre of the town and modestly gave place to the Malcolm block which was completed in 1847; the upper story was finished for a public hall and was well patronized for lectures and entertainments. A description of one of these may be interesting and also serve to contrast the past with the present. Dr. Dodd gave a course of lectures in Malcolm Hall on what he termed psychology; the Doctor was a good speaker and was capable of making almost any subject interesting. He drew crowded houses for more than a week. His science was nothing more than magnetism under a different name. 68 TROM A FOREST His method was this, — to invite twenty-five or thirty of the audience who were willing to be made subjects to take seats forward, and he would then place a piece of zinc about an inch in size, with a half-dime in the centre, in the hand of each ; they were to look very atten- tively at this coin for twenty minutes, then the Doctor would take each one in turn by the hand and pressing firmly with his thumb the ulnar nerve on the back of the hand near the second and third fingers would assume the most positive manner toward the subject and command him to shut his eyes, and would then say " now you can't open your eyes," which would sometimes be the case. He would always find two or three in the thirty who were susceptible ; these he would take on the stage and perform many remarkable experiments with them while in the psychological state, such as to com- mand them to revolve one hand over the other with a rotary motion, he would say "faster, faster, now you can't stop," and they would keep their hands whirling one over the other to the great amusement of the audience. So popular were the lectures at the time that many came for miles from the country to attend them. After the lectures the Doctor formed a class and taught the science, each student paying ten dollars and solemnly promising not to reveal the secret. Many of our best citizens in- vested. About the year 1831 the little building standing on the north east corner of Salina and Washington streets, which has been described as renting for six shillings per week, was removed by the Syracuse Co., and foundation walls TO A CITY. 69 laid for a considerable building to be known as the Ex- change Hotel. Its first proprietors were Van Patten & Crane. While the building was in process of construc- tion, a great storm arose and blew the end walls and scaffolding upon the little primitive buildings standing between that point and the Syracuse House, completely demolishing two and damaging several others. The storm was terrific in its appearance while approaching, the fleecy white clouds underlying the dark massive storm clouds from which the lightning seemed to be con- stantly flashing. This ominous appearance inspired fear in all beholders and together with the unfinished building high over their little buildings alarmed the inmates and they took refuge in safer quarters ; this precaution saved their lives. The accident hastened the construction of a better class of buildings between this point and the Syra- cuse House, and all of these buildings have been from time to time remodeled until there is no resemblance to the original structures. The old Exchange with its high gable walls long since gave place to the more modern mansard roof and many external ornaments, unknown to the original architects. One prominent feature of the hotel was Library Hall; it was the first and for years the most important hall in the village, the ceiling was arched and frescoed, the first that was done in the place. One of the best artists in New York was employed to do the work, which comprised a variety of nearly life size figures, such as the Goddess of Liberty with her scales of justice in one hand and in the other the staff on which the stars and stripes were unfurled in a most graceful manner, 70 FROM A FOREST making a fine appearance when the hall was lighted. To give any thing like a fair description of the beauty of this ceiling would require too much space and it is more than forty years since I have seen them. An account of the many lectures delivered in this hall in the early days of Syracuse would be interesting reading, as showing the advancement of civilization in Syracuse. This last sentence will be regarded as a remarkable expression, but still I can use none other to answer my purpose as well. During the days of the anti-slavery agitation, it was announced that Abbie Kelley and a Quaker from Skaneateles, named Fuller, would lecture in Library Hall on anti-slavery. When the hour arrived the hall was filled, but not with the best citizens, who at that time felt it would be a disgrace for them to be seen at such a lecture. The position and arguments of the speakers were the great wrongs of slavery, which were portrayed in the most feeling and touching language ; they did not advocate nor contemplate abolition of slavery in the states by Congress or any other branch of the national government. Their ideas being that slavery might be abolished by moral influence, with such incidental aid as the national government could constitutionally afford and without disturbing the union of the states; that the wrongs of slavery were so appalling in the sight of God, that the people ought to be educated to see the magni- tude of this national sin. For the expression of these Christian and humane sentiments, they were mobbed and egged by citizens of Syracuse. It seems impossible that such an outrage could have ever taken place in our WEST END OF THE OLD DEPOT. TO A CITY. 71 midst, when the provocation was only the attacking of the monstrous absurdity that one man could own another man, and that his title was the same as that by which he owned his horse or his ox. The flexibility of public opinion is demonstrated when a few years later we con- trast this occurrence with that of a few of our citizens, who opposed the whole power of the government and peaceably rescued the slave Jerry. THE OLD DEPOT. About the year T838, E. W. Leavenworth, president of the village, drafted a resolution granting to the Syracuse & Utica R. R. Co., the right of way, and the privilege of constructing a depot in the center of the street between Salina and Warren street. For these privileges the com- pany was required to build a sewer through the street, lay flagstone walks, plant trees, keep the street in repair, and also purchase sufficient land for an alley each side of the depot. The railroad company contracted with Daniel Elliott to build the depot. It was a wooden building twenty feet high, sufficiently wide for two tracks and a raised platform ten feet wide on each side, which was on a level with the platform of the cars. There was one foot space between the two and a better place for an accident could not have been invented. The building was a mere shell, and as badly contrived for the purpose for which it was intended as possible. In the west end there were stairs leading from the platform to the waiting room above; this was not expected to accommodate more than thirty or forty persons at one time. There 72 FROM A FOREST was also a small room for the Superintendent and a ticket office; this was found so inconvenient that it was removed. There was a small belfry with a bell that was rung fifteen minutes before the departure of each train, as in those days there was nothing more uncertain than the time when the train would leave, as there was but one track and no telegraph lines. If a train was adver- tised to leave at nine o'clock for the east, a passenger would hurry and take his seat and sometimes it would be an hour or two before the train would start, as the east- ern train must be in and the track clear before it was safe to proceed in that direction. These delays were a great inconvenience to the travelling public, — the quiet and patient submitted with good grace, saying, that what could not be helped must be endured ; while the nervous and impatient were loud in their denunciation of such management. There was no better school to study human character than here. Quite an amusing incident occurred on a time when the train and passengers for nearly three hours had been expected to start west ; the passengers were out of all patience and weary of hearing the roar of the steam escaping through the safety valve. There was a Russian officer on board who, observing the impatience and feeling much annoyed himself, seemingly forgot his locality, and stepping out proceeded to the engineer and commanded him to move on with his train. The only response he received was a hearty chuckle from the fireman. The officer flew into a great rage and said, " by the power vested in me by the Czar of Russia I command this train to move on !" (at the same time TO A CITY. 73 bringing his foot down with great force.) The engineer said to him that the Czar might go to , and if he could not wait until the conductor pulled the bell cord, he could proceed on foot. It was explained that in Russia all superior officers have power over inferiors in such cases. In 1848, E. B. Alvord built a small brick building on the corner of Warren street where the Uni- versity Block now stands, and named it the " California House." There were wide doors to the dining room, and directly opposite there was an arched opening into the depot, and as the train came in the tables in Mr. Alvord's dining room were in full view of the passengers a few feet distant. This was so convenient that he secured nearly .all the patronage from the hotels. To obviate this, the hotel proprietors influenced the Super- intendent to close up the opening in the depot. This spoilt Mr. Alvord's trade, — he thereupon broke down the door at the approach of the principal train, declaring that the depot was in the street and that the Railroad Company had no right to obstruct the highway. Mr. Alvord was arrested and gave bail. The next day the door was replaced, and on the approach of the train Mr. Alvord broke down the door. He had an understanding with the officers to so faciliate the arrest, conviction and signing the bail bond, that he was able to be back and assist in serving his guests. This very remarkable and strange proceeding was continued for many days, and those who sympathized with Mr. Alvord declared him to be a hero, but the contest was so unequal that he finally 74 FROM A FOREST concluded that discretion was the better part of valor, and the archway in the old depot remained closed. The greatest noise that was ever heard in this city occurred at the old depot in 1858. When it was an- nounced that the first Atlantic Telegraph cable had been successfully laid, the press of our city resolved to cele- brate the achievement. One part of the program was that a train of thirteen locomotives should be located in the old depot and that they open their noisy whistles and all the church bells in the city should commence to ring at the discharge of the first cannon. This part of the program was carried out as the signal was given, and the most unearthly shriek that the human ear ever heard was the result. Though the cannon were fired and the bells were rung, their sound was not heard above the shriek of the engines. The effect upon the listeners was most appalling, producing an electric shock that made the strongest turn pale; some women and children were thrown into convulsions and did not fully recover from the shock for days, and everyone present was glad when the noise ceased. The streets were densely packed and enthusiastic speakers made congratulatory remarks until late in the evening. In the winter of 1867, the Railroad Company resolved to remove the dilapidated old struct- ure that had been an eyesore in the center of the city so many years, accordingly one Saturday, messengers were sent to all the shops where large numbers of men were employed, with word that the old depot would be tern down on Sunday, and the lumber given for wood to all that would carry it away on that day, and large numbers TO A CITY. 75 were on hand prepared to make the most of the oppor- tunity. The building was about twelve rods long, and the amount of wood was immense. The Railroad Com- pany with a engine and cable pulled it down and it was soon carried away. On Monday morning there was not a stick to be seen on the ground. The change in the place was so great that citizens who came suddenly upon the familiar location were amazed at the transformation a day had wrought. THE WEST SIDE OF SOUTH SALINA STREET BETWEEN WASHINGTON AND FAYETTE. That part of South Salina street between Washington and Fayette streets was for a number of years the prop- erty of three men. Mr. John Wilkinson and Wm. B. Kirk owned the corner lots ; they were men of mental capacity, but dissimilar in other respects. I feel to en- courage that class of young men who are to commence the journey of life without capital to aid them. If they study well the successful men of our city and the great men of our nation including Lincoln and Garfield, they will be benefitted thereby. These men all commenced life poor, and I would say to these young men that so far as my observation extends, it more frequently happens that those who begin life poor are the most successful in reaching places of position and wealth. As one of a great number I could mention, John Wilkinson is a good example for young men to emulate. He had the energy and determination to overcome all the difficulties that were thrown in his way. The Academy at Onondaga 76 FROM A FOREST Valley was thirteen miles from his home and sometimes for six months he would make the journey twice a week. Monday morning as soon as it was dawn he would start for school on foot, with the provisions to last him a week in the knapsack on his back. A young man willing to endure such hardships to gain an education would be sure to waste no time in the pursuit of his studies. His diligence and perseverance attracted the attention of Judge Forman, a patron of the school who gave him a position in his office to study law. After completing his studies, his first work was to assist in surveying the Walton tract into village lots, after which he built in the year 1820 a small building for a law office on the corner of Washington and Salina streets ; at this time there were no other buildings near him as this point was almost in the forest. A few years later he built a dwelling house south of his office where he lived for many years. He was the first clerk of the village, the first postmaster, the first president of the Utica and Syracuse Railroad, and later president and manager of several railroads in the western states, and always holding the best interests of Syracuse in the highest esteem. In the year 1846 the lot where his office and house for so many years had been standing was made vacant and the Globe Hotel was erected. Its external appearance has changed but little for over forty years. In 1824 the Syracuse Company sold the lot on the corner of Salina and Fayette streets to John Garrison, who built a tavern, a low two story building with a cheap piazza the whole length of its front on Salina street. Mr. Garrison was a man of limited TO A CITY. 77 means. He cut the scattering pine trees which were standing on the west side of Clinton and Fayette streets, drew them to the saw-mill on west Water street, and had the logs sawed for his tavern. He was in need of a lumber wagon which he purchased on credit of William B. Kirk, who was then a wagon maker at Cardiff. Soon after the completion of the building Mr. Garrison died and in order to collect his debt for the wagon, Mr. Kirk bought the tavern and moved here in 1826. Mr. Kirk was fond of relating this to show how a circumstance changed his life from a mechanic to a tavern keeper. Mr. Kirk was popular with the country people who usually patronized his house. If I were writing a history of men it would be difficult to find a man who had made a fortune with less activity or one that circumstances had favored more than Mr. Kirk. A particular circumstance led him to invest a large part of his capital in the Central Railroad stock in its early days. From this investment a large part of his wealth was accumulated. In the year 1859 the old tavern was moved away and the Kirk Block took its place. This block was designed for a hotel. While Mr. Pulver was proprietor an accident happened that came near being very serious ; two barrels of burning fluid in the cellar caught fire, and owing to its volatile nature there was an immense amount of black smoke generated in a few seconds, which filled the lower floors and stairways so densely that the lady boarders in their rooms were unable to make their exit, and were driven to the upper story to avoid suffocation ; they ap- peared at the windows half dead from fright and suffoca- 78 FROM A FOREST tion, and in their frenzy were determined to jump from the third story, while a hundred voices were shouting to them some one and some another thing; Dr. Westcott appeared on the scene and gaining their confidence told them it would be sure death if they jumped, that ladders would be there in a few moments, and pledged himself that if they would be calm he would be responsible for their safety. Meanwhile Mrs. Cloyde, one of their num- ber, found a ladder that lead to the scuttle on the roof, which she opened and thus found a way of rescue; in a few moments all were safely descending from the roof through the scuttle of the Globe Hotel, the fire was checked after the fluid was burned and no great loss occurred. That block is now (1889) being torn down preparatory to the erection of a much finer one on the same site by Mr. Kirk's son, Wm. B., who is the present Mayor of the city. VANDERBILT SQUARE TO FAYETTE STREET. The block south of Vanderbilt Square was not entirely cleared of its native forest trees in 1824. It was then owned by the Syracuse Company. In that year three members of the Company gave the lot now occupied by McCarthy's store to the Presbyterian society who built a church there in 1825. This was quite a small church even for those days, and as the society increased in num- bers it was soon necessary to enlarge it. Many thought at the time that it was built too far away from the village, and much complaint was made of the mud encountered in going to the services; but the little white church with TO A CITY. 79 its green blinds made a pretty appearance among a few- tall forest trees near by, and as the lot was a gift, the long walk was endured with a good grace. Rev. John Watson Adams was pastor for twenty-four years, and lived for several years on Franklin street; he died at the Empire House in 1850. Dr. Adams was graduated from the Theological Seminary at Auburn, N. Y., and com- menced his life work as the pastor of this church, where he continued his labors for a quarter of a century. Under his leadership the church met with no reverses and constantly increased in numbers and wealth and he left it one of the strongest and wealthiest churches in the city. A singular coincidence was the circumstance that on the day the last portion of his old church was re- moved to give place to the Dillaye Block, Dr. Adams breathed his last. His life and the scene of his life's exertions as if in sympathy, becoming events of the past at the same time. The best men of the city have filled the offices of this church. It commenced with a membership of twenty-six persons and had seven trustees, one of whom was Joshua Forman, who raised the money to build the church, by circulating a subscription paper himself, obtaining eighty-three names. In 1829 some children playing around the foundations of the church, looking in a small opening left in the wall under the floor for a ventilator, discovered a string ; one of the number, child like, pulled it out and found a tin can fastened to the end of the string containing seven hundred dollars. A short time previous several stores had been robbed 8o FROM A FOREST and the money had been secreted here, but by this for- tunate circumstance was restored. In the year 1839 Hamilton and Horace White con- tracted with Daniel Eliott to build, on the corner where the White Memorial building is located, a two and a half story brick building ; it was very plain and substantial, and was used for the Bank of Syracuse and also the Onondaga County Bank. The lower floor was for many years occupied by the American Express Company. Be- tween this building and the church were several two story brick buildings which were quite small and of poor appearance. In 1850 Henry A. Dillaye bought the old church property and built a very fine five story building, covering the entire lot, in beauty and elegance of finish surpassing any other building on South Salina street. It had the appearance of standing alone, and it was thought to be too far removed from the center of business to rent well ; however it proved to be a first class investment, and those owning the small stores between the Bank building and the Dillaye block caught the inspiration and the fronts were taken out and the stores raised up and, greatly improved in looks. In 1855 the Dillaye block burnt down, and was rebuilt in 1856, and was soon after purchased by Dennis McCarthy for a dry goods store. SOUTH SALTNA STREET FROM FAYETTE TO ONONDAGA. That portion of the city previously described had been reclaimed from the forest, and put in a suitable condition for the erection of buildings, but on reaching that point south of East Fayette street and along the line of South Salina street to Billings Park, it is necessary to show TO A CITY. 8 1 what was accomplished before the present spacious and elegant buildings could be erected. The underbrush of the forest was removed, the water courses changed, the smaller hills removed, and the ravines filled. It is also due to mention the names of those who have long been sleeping in their graves, but who while in life with their strong arms and muscle toiled and labored to pre- pare the soil for our gardens and beautiful lawns. This locality was a part of the Walton tract, and when it came into the possession of the Syracuse Company in 1824, the heavier timber had been removed ; but still it was covered with stumps and underbrush. The Company's first work was to clear it ; they built a farm-house with barn and corn house near the corner of Jefferson and Salina streets. The Company placed John Husenfrats in the house and contracted with him to clear the land per acre, after which he was allowed to cultivate it. For years this hard working German with his men and ox team labored to remove trees, brush and stumps until he could see from Salina street to Mulberry street his acres of corn, potatoes and fields of waving grain. In 1825 the ground over which Salina street was constructed was very uneven, a few rods north of Jefferson street there was a deep ravine fifteen feet in depth crossing Salina street through which a stream called Yellow brook found its way to the mill pond. The banks of this stream were lined with flags and weeds, and sometimes a person crossing the bridge on Salina street might see a musk rat or wild duck skulking in the flags to hide out of sight. On the banks of this creek a Mr. White built a 82 FROM A FOREST small house on the west side of Salina street; he kept a boat chained under the bridge, and when he wanted fish for his breakfast, if he could not take enough from under the bridge in front of where the Washington block now stands, he would unchain his boat and row out to where the Armory is now, and cast his anchor in ten or fifteen feet of water and soon catch a fine lot of fish. It will seem very remarkable to many who read these pages that this locality should ever have been fishing ground. The topography of South Salina street has been greatly changed from its natural state. Between Jefferson and Onondaga streets the ground was rolling and in some places has been cut down six feet while from the canal (including Hanover Square) to Jefferson street it has been raised from three to twelve feet. This part of the early village, was, on account of the swampy nature of the soil after a rain, rendered nearly impassable for per- sons on foot or with teams ; the latter if loaded were often stuck fast in the mud. Kirk's tavern, built on the corner of Fayette and Salina streets in 1826, and other boarding houses in the vicinity were seldom patronized by boarders on account of the mud encountered in going to and from their meals. It is hardly possible to fully describe the muddy condition of the streets before we had sewers and pavements. I am at a loss to account for this when I consider the immense beds of gravel underlying many parts of the city. Syracuse was some- times called the " City of Mud." When the Erie canal was first filled, the water as it came flowing with a rapid current from the east disappeared as it came to the point TO A CITY. 83 where the swing bridge crosses Salina street the flow of water was increased to the greatest possible capacity but still it all disappeared in the ground at this point. For a while it was thought that for this reason the whole project would fail from this unlooked for condition. It was discovered that this exceedingly porous condition of the soil was confined to a small surface, and it was obviated by excavating a few feet deeper and filling in with blue clay and hammering it to a hard surface, after which the water flowed onward to Clinton street, when it disappeared again, and the difficulty was overcome in the same way. There is an immense bed of gravel underlying the vicinity of Harrison street, when a little south of this point it suddenly terminates and blue clay to a great depth is found. In fact the geological forma- tion of this whole valley is a mystery. While workmen were boring for salt near Harbor brook they struck a pine log eighty-six feet below the surface ; it was posi- tively certain that the log was found at this depth, but how it came there is a mystery. The strongest salt water is universally found in the lowest deposits of gravel. In the year 1823 Mr. Adams manufactured brick on the west side of South Salina street midway between Jefferson and Onondaga streets and had much trouble in delivering his brick on account of the muddy roads. As the swamps near Fayette Park were cleared up and drained Yellow brook became nearly dry. In the year 1831 John Wall took the contract for one thousand dollars to cut down South Salina street south of Jefferson street, fill the ravine and raise Salina street between Fayette street and the 84 FROM A FOREST canal according to plans and specifications prepared by E. W. Leavenworth. This was the first great tax of the little village and to some it was oppressive. This filling up the ravine for the purpose of making the highway- level left the lots north from Jefferson street nearly to Fayette street too low to be desirable for dwellings ; a large portion was surrounded with a board fence and occupied by P. N. Rust as a wood yard for the Syracuse House. The side-walk on South Salina street at this point was on a level with this high board fence. About the year 1831 there was a sizeable brick hotel built on the corner of Salina and Fayette streets. The building was after the architecture of those days, with the end walls carried several feet above the roof, its greatest depth was on Fayette street, a wide platform extended across the Salina street front with the entrance to the office and bar-room. In 1845 Mr. Anderson was the proprietor and was very popular for setting a good table for his guests. It was said that a pig baked whole was placed on his table every day for dinner, this dish, nearly obsolete now was very popular then. The pig was slaughtered when about four weeks old, stuffed as we do our turkeys, and baked, then with a cracker in its mouth placed on a large platter and made an attractive appear- ance on the table. The following story is related, the truth of which, however, I cannot vouch for. It was told that a hungry teamster from Cicero, who had driven in with a load of salt barrels made his appearance here ; being in a great hurry for his dinner, which was not quite ready, he was allowed to go to the dining-room where he TO A CITY. 85 found nothing on the table as yet but the baked pig, but unobserved he seated himself by this dish and soon de- voured the animal. By this time the waiter made her appearance and enquired if he would have pudding or pie ; he replied he cared for neither, but if they had an- other little hog he would be thankful for it. East of the hotel on Fayette street were several wooden dwellings built about the year 1828 by the Syracuse Company from the forest trees which were standing on the lots near by. There was but little sawed timber used in their construction, as the trees were hewn into shape with an ax, the lower joists were small straight trees with one side flattened on which to lay the floors. When the Presbyterian society bought the property the hotel was torn down and the wooden buildings were moved away. One of them is the property of the writer, and is now standing on block 142, South Salina street, and it is thought to be one of the oldest wooden buildings in the city. The present Presbyterian church was completed and dedicated the 24th of November, 1850. There was never a public building erected in Syracuse where greater value was secured for every dollar expended than this church. The building committee was composed of many of the very best men of the place, some of them practical builders and architects themselves. They called to their aid M. Lefever of New York, then the most pop- ular architect in the United States, who furnished the drawings. This elegant edifice was finished at a cost of $40,000, the lot cost $1 0,000. Several years later the interior was remodeled with beautiful designs at an addi- CO FROM A FOREST tional expense of $10,000. At the completion of the spire, appropriate services were held and speeches made. The last stone was placed on the spire by a woman's hand ; she was a daughter of the master builder, and was drawn up in a basket when amid the roar of cannon she placed the last ornament on the tallest spire in western New York. There was, however, a great mistake made in the selection of building material. The red sandstone of which it was constructed was procured at Fulton, N. Y., and experience has proved the stone too soft to en- dure the changes of our climate ; they crumble and chip off, and the once beautiful caps upon the many turrets were soon a shapeless mass of stone but were replaced by a harder material. The cap upon the spire was thought to be unsafe and several years ago the contract was let to remove it. The contractor after lashing his ladders to the spire, failed in courage to ascend to the top and remove the cap, when Wm. Baumgrass (a painter by trade) volunteered, and amid the shouts of a large number of observers, quickly climbed the ladders and broke the stone in pieces with a hammer. Mr. Baum- grass lost his life some years later while performing a much less dangerous feat. While walking on a coping a few inches wide, projecting from the front of a three story building he fell to the side-walk and was killed. Every citizen owes a debt of gratitude to the public spirited and energetic men who have devoted their energy and ability in beautifying the city with elegant buildings. No man was entitled to more credit in mak- ing South Salina street what it is to day than Henry A. TO A CITY. 87 Dillaye ; he had built one fine building somewhat remote from the business part of the town, and men had been found to fill up the vacancy with a good class of stores. He resolved to repeat the experiment on a much larger scale. Accordingly he purchased a lot midway between Fayette and Jefferson streets. So intense was Mr. Dil- laye 's desire to erect a beautiful and faultless building that he spent a week in the streets of New York and Philadelphia to examine and find something that would satisfy his tastes ; by this course he could see how the building would appear when finished. The building he decided upon was externally highly ornamented ; the caps and sills to the windows were cast iron, and the caps were arched and of a heavy and beautiful design in carv- ing. He at once gave an order for castings from the same mould. The building on Salina street was two stories in width, of a great depth and seventy feet in height ; the lower story was eighteen feet between joists, the second fifteen feet. At this time plate glass had not yet been introduced here; this building was supplied with this costly article The store fronts contained four lights twelve feet in height ; water pipes were carried to every floor that each story could be flooded in case of fire. The store was completed with all the ornamenta- tion of its New York pattern, the brick side-walk was removed and flagstones sixteen feet in width were laid in front of this beautiful structure. On its completion his next work was to build up the remaining vacant lots. His scheme was to find six capitalists who were willing to pledge themselves to each erect a building after a 88 FROM A FOREST uniform plan, and to be called the Washington block. After much perseverance Mr. Dillaye found the parties. One of the gentlemen failed to perform his part of the contract, and rather than have the whole project fail Mr. Alfred Hovey agreed to build two of the stores, conse- quently the six stores were completed. This however did not fill the space between the church and the store first erected. Mr. Dillaye then built the fine store next the church and in the year 1857 the space was finally filled by the erection of three stores, Mr. Dillaye building one of the three. Thus it will be seen that Henry A. Dillaye was justly entitled to the credit of building up this part of the street with uniform and stately buildings several years sooner than they would otherwise have been if not for his perseverance in the matter. Unfor- tunately he had hardly time to view with pride and satis- faction the accomplishment of his undertaking, when a fire occurred in the building just completed ; he had rented it for a grocery and the occupant had not held possession two weeks before a fire broke out that proved to be destructive ; two or three stores were entirely con- sumed and several others more or less damaged. For- tunately for the owners they were well insured and the stores were soon rebuilt. In the days of which I am writing building was very different than now. Men with large means were seldom found, and there were no Savings Banks where loans on real estate could be procured. An advertisement, " money to loan," would have been a curiosity seldom seen. When Syracuse was chartered a village there were TO A CITY. 89 less than forty banks in the State, and we now have sev- eral men that are worth more money than the capital combined in all the banks of our State at that time. The longest period the banks were willing to loan their money was for ninety days, and it was their custom every few years to call in their money by refusing to discount. This produced a scarcity of money in circulation, and a panic or a " financial crisis," as it was called was the result, and woe unto the poor fellow whose obligations were due. If he had not the ready money to pay his debts, he must go under. Many a substantial business man failed because money could not be had on the best of security. Under such conditions men were heroes who were willing to take their chances in erecting buildings for a public improvement. Although this elegant block of stores excelled all others in the city at that date, and were soon occupied by the best merchants in the place, yet strange to say in a short time every one failed and all moved out leaving the stores unoccupied, and they re- mained so for years despite every effort of their owners to rent them at a small rent. Becoming so discouraged with their investment they offered them for sale for about what the material would have cost in bulk. Two of them were sold a low as $5,500 each. As time went by and the city grew in population they came into demand mostly for the furniture trade. Mr. Dillaye's beautiful store had been idle for years, when Mr. Durnford offered to rent the upper stories if he would put it in shape for a boarding house. Soon after Fralick & Vedder rented the stores on the lower floor and filled them with an im- 90 FROM A FOREST mense stock of drv goods, and in a few years acquired a good trade, when the thirst for money prompted them to the worst case of arson that ever occurred in our city. The firm opened a branch store in another place and it was reported that they purchased an immense stock of goods, and reshipped them from the store here to their branch store, leaving the Syracuse store and shelves filled with empty boxes. Having the bills to show for a large stock of goods they readily procured the insurance on every dollars worth. When every prepara- tion was completed they fired the store by a trail of cot- ton saturated with kerosene. A tall candle was lighted that would burn until the small hours of the night before reaching the combustible train which was placed in the cellar. These plans were so carefully laid and carried out that the destruction of the building was most com- plete. It would seem to be impossible to find greater evidence of the total depravity of man. To think that there were ever men so completely filled with infamy that they could thus build a fire under eighty innocent sleeping men and women, with an indifference as to how they should escape from being burned alive is too appal- ling to contemplate. As the boarding house became filled with smoke the inmates were awakened barely in time to escape with their lives. Strong suspicions led to a searching inquiry ; the merchants were placed under arrest and one link after another was laid bare until the evidence was so clear that Vedder attempted suicide, but the poison was counteracted by an antidote in time by his physician. He then turned States evidence and thus TO A CITY. 91 cleared himself, but his partner in guilt was sentenced to Auburn prison for life. Fralick was a man of noble physique and of good address, — in religion a Jew ; quite wealthy, and felt the disgrace most keenly. While in conversation with the sheriff on his way to prison, he made the statement that a Jew was never yet found with- in the walls of a county house, and seldom in states prison. The sheriff replied to this remark that there would be one good representative of his class in Auburn prison within an hour. The prisoner replied that it was not best to "count chickens before they were hatched." When within sight of the prison Fralick was seen to place something in his mouth which was thought to be tobacco. As he stepped into the receiving room of the prison he fell to the floor unconscious and died in a few minutes. ENCROACHMENT. Having referred to those enterprising citizens who have been most prominent in commencing a permanent business growth on South Salina street, by the erection of costly and spacious stores, I must reluctantly refer to those who have worked in the opposite direction. A merchant prince may have money sufficient to construct a seventy-five thousand dollar dwelling house on a business street, yet his course will ever be regretted, for he virtually places an obstruction in the way of the car of progress in that direction for a time a least. I think if Messrs. Price & Harwood had erected a fine block of stores on the corners of Salina and Jefferson streets, the space between Jefferson and Onondaga street would have been 92 FROM A FOREST filled twenty years sooner, for these costly dwellings like sentinels, forbade the approach of business in that direction and caused the tide of business blocks and stores to turn into Clinton and Fayette streets. This is to be regretted, as these streets are narrow and not so well adapted. The streets of a city like the people who walk them are sometimes the victims of injustice. No street in our city has suffered greater injury than Salina between Onondaga and Temple streets. For more than forty years there has been a united effort of property owners on the west side of Salina street between these two points to add a part of the highway in front of their dwellings to their premises, and since the construction of "The Florence" flats on the corner of Onondaga and Salina streets, it seems that they have completed their infamous scheme to narrow Salina street at this point twenty-nine feet. Having owned real estate on the op- posite side of the street for nearly half a century, I think I have a perfect knowledge of the subject and desire to place myself on record as ever opposing this outrage to the best of my ability. In 1840 some new fences were built north of Adams street that encroached upon a six rod street. E. W. Leavenworth was President of the village and compelled the property owners to set their fences on the line of a six rod street. By referring to the accompanying map it will be seen that the side-walk at that time was much nearer the dwellings on the west side of the street than now. Early in the year 1859, parties north of Adams street again set their fences out, and E. W. Leavenworth placed papers in my hands to TO A CITY. 93 serve on them for encroachment, and the fences were withdrawn. Soon after there was an effort made to pave the street for the first time, and one of the sharpest con- tests followed that ever occurred in the city over the lines of a street, which finally resulted in advantage to the street stealers; this was due to the great majority in numbers on the west side of the street. On the line of Billings' Park, every resident was in favor of the scheme, as well as north from Adams to Onondaga street, while on the east side Roger Billings owned the corner of Adams and Salina street as his place of business and re- sided on the west side, which placed him actively on the side of plunder. This left but six property owners on the east side between Harrison and Adams street to oppose the strong force on the west, and strange as it may now appear, we could not interest parties above or below these points to assist in keeping the street open to its full width. We knew we were in the right, and like Leonidas would oppose the force before us. We employed the best counsel, every effort by speeches and petitions was made to the Common Council, we stated in the strongest terms the infamous scheme of the street stealers to nar- row for two blocks a great central avenue, miles in extent, from a ninety-nine foot to a seventy foot street. To allow this great disfigurement of a street for no other purpose than to gratify the avarice and greed of a few seemed a crowning absurdity. Every condition seemed to favor the schemers. The alderman of the ward was a shrewd lawyer with vastly more ability than integrity, and was the leading spirit in the council and also a friend 94 FROM A FOREST of Captain Larned. There was one difficulty in the way. The Mayor was E. W. Leavenworth who had on two previous occasions compelled them to toe the line. of a six rod street. He seemed to see the matter in its true light, and was known to be determined the street should not be narrowed, but unfortunately for us he was a candidate for the office of Secretary of State, was opposed by Erastus Brooks and the " know nothing " party, and he felt he needed every vote. It was said that Captain Larned stepped into his office one day and in his usual gruff manner said to him, " Leavenworth ! if you oppose us in establishing a seventy foot street, I will oppose you on election day by making every whiskey barrel in the city a free drinking trough." Whether from this cause or not, Mr. Leavenworth offered no opposition. John Kidder was the City Engineer, he drew a map of the street and a proposed line for narrowing it at Onon- daga street and running to a point at Temple street ; his proposition would establish a seventy foot street between those points, while north and south it would be ninety- nine feet wide. The Common Council decided to adopt this line. With great care I have placed here a copy of the original map drawn in 1859, this will show to the people of to-day and the future, the precise conditions at the time the street was paved. The last move made was to petition the council asking that no permanent line should be established to embarrass any subsequent coun- cil from establishing a six rod street. The subject was not farther agitated for twenty-eight years, yet those on the east side of the street believed there would come a TO A CITY. 95 time when justice would be done. In the spring of 1887 preparations were made for the erection of a block of such magnitude on the corner of Onondaga and Salina streets, that this seemed the last opportunity to establish a uniform sireet six rods wide, as such a structure once completed would be a difficult matter to remove. Several others with myself wrote articles on the subject. At the time of writing my article, I supposed the parties held a good title to about twelve rods south from Onondaga street. One of the writers referred to seemed familiar with the first surveys and maps. By searching the surveys recorded at the County Clerk's office it would be an easy matter to establish Salina street at these points a six rod street. I spent a week in looking up early surveys and maps, and found that an act was passed in 1794 to lay out the Genesee turnpike six rods wide, and sell two hundred a fifty acres of the salt springs reservation to pay the expenses. Abram Walton became the purchaser in 1804. The south line of this Walton tract crossed a little south of the middle of the block between Adams and Onondaga streets. In 1807 the surveyor general directed Moses Carpenter and two other surveyors to lay- out a state r* ad six rods wide, north and south from the Walton tract through the state lands to specified points. This road is now Salina street. In .824 the Syracuse Company purchased the Walton tract and other st lands south of Adams street. This Company employed John Lathrop to draw a map of their lands, and this map shows Salina street a ninety-nine foot street. John Ran- dall Jr. drew a map of the salt springs reservation for the 96 FROM A FOREST state in 1822. This map shows. Salina street as a ninety- nine foot street. The west line of Salina street can be established beyond a doubt from three deeds recorded in the County Clerk's office. One of the first deeds from the Syracuse Company conveys one and one-half acres by this description. "A lot in Block 120, north part of the block beginning at the north corner of Green street, (now Onondaga street) and running south on the street leading to Onondaga Hollow, 3 chains, 43 links, thence by a line 67 degrees west, 7 chains 55 links to the bank of Onondaga creek, etc." At this point the banks of the creek were protected by large trees then standing there, establishing the bank as permanent for at least one hun- dred years. It must be apparent to every person that to commence at this point and measure back, on the line indicated, the number of chains and links, would establish the west line of Salina street at this point be- yond all question. This measurement would leave a little more than ninety-nine feet as the width of the street. After becoming convinced of the great amount of evi- dence at hand to establish South Salina street for miles at least a ninety-nine foot street, I called on the Alder- man who was chairman of the committee on streets, with maps and copies of these original conveyances, and in- formed him of my intention to obtain a large number of names of our prominent citizens, petitioning the Council that inasmuch as there had never been a monument placed on the corner of Salina and Onondaga streets, and in consequence of the neglect and indifference of all previous Councils, it was the opinion of many good TO A CITY. 97 citizens, that encroachments had been made at this point that would forever mar the beauty of the principal avenue through our city, the petitioners ask that the present council instruct the city attorney to procure from the county clerk's orifice all original conveyances bearing upon the subject, and also direct the city engineer and surveyor to survey and place a monument at this point as is the custom elsewhere on the corners of streets. The reply of this city official must forever be a reproach upon the citizens of Syracuse at this period of its exis- tence for placing such men in offices to fill places of trust. He replied that I had better save my time in pro- curing such a petition as there would be no action taken upon it; lie thought he understood the sentiment of the council upon the subject, and so far as he was concerned, he should oppose it as he had some friends living in the locality and he should not incur their displeasure for the benefit of any street. Believing that in the future as our city grows in size and importance the wonder will be what could have been the cause of so shocking a blunder as to have two widths in so important an avenue, I feel that this history should be given in some detail. The early history o( the corner of Salina and Onondaga streets is this. Sixty-two years previous to the present date, Andrew Van Patten bought this corner. South of the lot was a dense forest. He built the house that is now standing, known as the Larned House, for a tavern. He was an active politician. In the year 1X29 there v. three candidates in the field for Governor, Mr. Van- Patten bet his tavern that Francis Granger would be 98 FROM A FOREST elected Governor. Mr. Granger lost and so did Andrew. He manfully paid his bet and deeded his house for the consideration of one dollar to the winner of the bet. He then built on the opposite corner a brick tavern which became venerable, and was known as the Old Line House for many years. As the first named house was erected when land was of little consequence it is probable the first fence was placed without regard to lines and remained for so many years that the people became accustomed to its location and the encroachment was simply tolerated, and the apathy and indifference of the inhabitants north and south together with the stupidity of the common council in after years is the cause of this permanent encroachment. Four or five others with my- sely were all that ever offered opposition. Our position was that Salina street must forever be the great central avenue, and will be to Syracuse what Broadway is to New York, so whatever mars or adds to its beauty should inter- est every citizen. The great mass of humanity that for years and centuries will surge from the north of Onon- daga street will see this encroachment which seems at one point to be standing in the center of the street, and in my opinion it will serve as a monument of disgrace to all those who have fought so many years to establish it, and also as a reproach for the apathy and indifference of the common council whose duty it was to prevent it. THE NORTH SIDE OF WATER STREET, BETWEEN SALINA AND WARREN STREETS. The lot occupied by the Onondaga County Savings Bank at an early date came to a point near the bridge. TO A CITY. 99 The building committee of the bank obtained permission of the common council to widen the lot at this point. In the early history of the village there was a wooden building standing on this lot. It was here that the first newspaper ever published in Syracuse was printed, mak- ing its first appearance in April, 1823. It was not a showy sheet being twelve by seventeen inches in size, containing four pages of five columns each ; it was called the " Gazette," which was a very appropriate name for this little paper. The beginnings of newspapers are traceable to Germany and Venice. At first they were only seen at public places and could only be read by the payment of a small coin called a "gazetta," whence the name Gazette. In 1820 a post-office was established on the north side of the canal but soon after it was removed to this building and was located in the office of Mr. Durnford, the publisher of the " Gazette." A Mr. Rogers kept a dry goods store in this building. His store took fire in the month of March, 1834, and this proved to be one of the most destructive fires that ever occurred in Syracuse. It soon involved the buildings on both sides of the canal, and twenty-one were burned, mostly stores. The Onondaga Standard office was burned, and it made a clean sweep of all the buildings on Water street be- tween Salina and Warren streets. At the time the fire occurred, most of the square was a sheet of ice, under which the water was a foot deep in places. The goods were carried out of the burning buildings and placed on the ice at a safe distance from the fire. In one place was a tall pile of barrels filled with crackers; the intense IOO FROM A FOREST heat thawing the ice on the side nearest the fire caused them to fall over, and soon barrels of crackers were floating over Hanover Square to the great amusement of the boys, who were up to their knees in water securing the crackers. This is alluded to as showing the condi- tion of Hanover square at that time. Since then it has been filled up several feet, but in the early days of Syra- cuse the square was a sea of mud. The buildings destroyed by the fire were soon after replaced with substantial brick buildings. Judging from their appearance, the architects of those days had little conception of beauty or convenience. There was not an ornament of any kind to be seen, the roofs were without cornices and rested upon the brick wall, the windows were small and ill shaped. The art of stair building seemed to be in the hands of the blacksmith, and the two and three stories were sometimes reached by iron stairs placed on the outside of the building. These were of the crudest workmanship, consisting of a single plank for a tread, placed on a bar of bent iron with an inch bar for a hand rail, and it required nerve and courage to descend the steep grade. The interiors were equally crude and inconvenient. The show windows were pro- jections on the outside of the store, usually sufficient in depth for two panes of ten by sixteen glass, with a half round corner and a pane of glass on a half circle. I have now a few of those half circle glass that I took from one of these show windows while making repairs forty- five years ago. At that time the windows were of small glass, and, for safety, board shutters were required to all TO A CITY. IOI doors and windows, which gave the business part of the town early in the morning and Sundays a most deserted and cheerless appearance. In 1839 D. & M. Dana opened a dry-goods store on the north west corner of Warren and Water streets, which was one of the principal establishments of that class in the village. Mr. Dana was one of our self-made men. He came here in the early days of Syracuse, and worked at packing salt for a few shillings per day, and by great economy and industry was enabled to start in trade on a small scale. The strongest trait of character in Daniel Dana was his love of truth, and for this reason, when needed, he could always obtain credit. In those days there was but little money in circulation and barter was a necessity. So common was this practice that the rules and principles of barter were laid down in the school books of that day. Mr. Dana's store was a resort for many of the farmers of our county fifty years ago, where they took their grain and exchanged it for "store pay." When Mr. Dana sold the grain there was fre- quently a rise of a few cents per bushel, and this led him to make the buying and selling of grain a specialty, and he became one of the largest grain buyers in the State. At that date our granaries were not filled as now from the prolific fields of the west. Then the rich hills and valleys of our county returned the farmer a bountiful harvest of the " staff of life." When the farmers commenced mar- keting their wheat, Mr. Dana was always on the watch and it was amusing to see him following the loads of wheat through the streets. So active was he that it was 102 FROM A FOREST said that sometimes the full capacity of the two banks were required to supply him with funds. The scales that decided the loss and gain with Mr. Dana were for many years evenly balanced, and one year he would be rich and the next poor, but this fact was known only to a few. The constant anxiety and excitement finally proved too much for his mind, and his familiar form was no longer seen on the market. EAST GENESEE STREET. East Genesee street from Warren street to the Park was bordered by four triangular blocks, with the angles reversed on each side of the street. This was thought by the original surveyor to be a necessity so as to lay out the blocks adjoining in a square form. In the early .days when but few buildings occupied these three sided blocks they made a very pretty appearance when they were clothed in beautiful green turf with many fine spec- imens of the forest trees left standing here and there. One triangle was formed by Genesee, Warren and Wash- ington streets, and on the east point of this triangle was a copious well of water that furnished the few inhabitants with good water long before Captain Teall's supply was ever thought of. This well was the scene at one time of great excitement when a little girl struggling at the wind- lass to empty the heavy bucket lost her balance and fell into the well. She happened to be seen when falling and was rescued alive. On the Warren street side of this triangle was erected in 1826 the first Episcopal church in Syracuse, where the TO A CITY. I03 society held their services until 1844, when they built St. Paul's church on the corner of Warren and Fayette streets, which was ultimately torn down and the lot sold to the United States for a Government building. The old church originally built was sold to the Catholic society in 1844 and moved to the corner of Montgomery and Madison streets, and is one of the oldest churches in the place, services having been held in it for more than fifty years. The lot made vacant by this removal was purchased by General Granger who erected the Granger Block. The block on the opposite side of Genesee street was the site of an old yellow building which occupied the whole of the space between Water and Genesee streets facing Hanover square, and was the first building on that block. It was divided into several small shops and stores which were occupied by small dealers with little capital. The second floor was reached by outside stairs from the Water street side. Dr. Hiram Hoyt occupied, for several years, a portion of this floor for his office and hospital, which was on a small scale of course, in those early days, yet it was sometimes of great service in sudden emergencies, and in case of accidents such as happened one fourth of July. Two men were loading a cannon on Prospect Hill, and a fellow by the name of Jack Hall had been instructed to hold his thumb over the vent of the cannon and be sure not to remove it while the men were engaged in loading it with powder. Too much whiskey made Jack so patriotic that he re- moved his thumb, when a premature discharge took place which deprived two men of their arms. They were car- 104 FROM A FOREST ried to Dr. Hoyt's rooms where amputation was per- formed, and where they remained until their recovery. The next building east was the old Union House, erected in 1827. The last occupant of this house was a Mr. Partridge and he made some money while here but soon lost it. He lived alone for many years, doing all his housework even to baking his bread; that it was of good quality was shown by the fact of his living to be over eighty years old. Next east of this old Union House, the first brick dwelling in Syracuse, was built by John Rogers in 1825, and at date of writing it is still standing. If all that has transpired within the walls of this old building could be told it would make an interesting volume, recording the joys and sorrows incident to hu- man life. The first occupant of this house felt a just pride in living in the only substantial brick dwelling house then in the place. On the 15th of March, 1834, after a well-spent day over his counter, he returned to his quiet and happy home with anticipations and pros- pects of future prosperity, but the next morning's sun shone upon the ruins of his store, and more than twenty adjoining buildings were smouldering heaps of ashes, thus showing the uncertainty of human hopes and desires. As the years rolled by the walls of this old house were heated again and again by the conflagrations of the sur- rounding buildings, and at one time there seemed to be a determined effort of an incendiary to burn it, and for weeks a special policeman was secreted to capture the would-be incendiary. It seems sometimes as if there is a fate that surrounds buildings like this and the Syra- mm » »^J?«r ' THe"fIKST BRICK BOUSE IN SYRACUSE. TO A CITY. 105 cuse House, by which they seem to be protected from the destructive influences which are so common to other structures. The north side of Genesee street, between Warren and Montgomery streets, where the Convention Block now stands, was formerly the site of the Congre- gational church, an unpretentious wooden building that had been in use many years. The bell in this church- spire was the one that gave the signal at the arrest of the slave Jerry, under the fugitive slave law. We have no record of any place in the United States where in the days of slavery the poor slave had more ardent friends than in Syracuse, — not even Boston, the home of Gar- rison. The great activity of the anti-slavery societies at the North induced the slave-holding States to have the fugitive slave law passed, and under this law all citizens of the United States were required, when called upon, to render the officers personal assistance in the performance of their duties in arresting fugitive slaves, the principle being, that " the constitution and laws of the United States secure the right to reclaim fugitive slaves against State legislation." This law was particularly odious to the anti-slavery men at the North, as they claimed it turned them into slave-catchers and compelled them to perform the office of blood-hounds in running down human beings whose only offence was the love of liberty. There were scores of men in Syracuse who hated the institution of slavery with as much intensity as Garrison, and accordingly they met in Market Hall and passed the strongest resolutions they could find language to express, declaring they would never obey the fugitive slave law, 106 FROM A FOREST and also that there never should be a slave returned from Syracuse under this law, and there never was. The rescue of Jerry has been so many times described we will pass it by without further notice. Yet there is one circumstance preceding it that I do not remember hav- ing heard mentioned. A few days after one of the most enthusiastic anti-slavery meetings ever held in Market Hall, Daniel Webster very unexpectedly made his appearance in Syracuse and was escorted to a little balcony on the east side of the Courier building (this balcony is there to-day as it was then), and there were soon fifty or a hundred men gathered around to see the great statesman, who there made a short speech. I think I can now repeat the most of it verbatim. He com- menced by saying : " Gentlemen of the village of Syra- cuse, I have long felt an interest in your place, as it is intimately connected with the salines of the State," and after a very short introduction he turned upon the politi- cal topics of the times which, to a large extent, involved the question of slavery, and he made this assertion : " Gentlemen, I am a lawyer, and I value my reputation as much for this as for anything," then, raising his voice and with much emphasis added, "let me tell you, as often as you meet in convention in that hall," pointing to Market Hall, " and pass the resolutions that you do, it is treason ! it is treason ! ! " If he had been sent here to instruct us as a high legal authority, the sequel clearly demonstrated how little his instructions were regarded. The changes that have taken place in Syracuse illus- trate the changed ideas of the American people, and we TO A CITY. 107 now look back with wonder and astonishment to think that at so recent a period as when Syracuse was incor- porated as a village, the laws of New York recognized the ownership of one man by another. The time for the gradual emancipation of slavery in this State expired in 1827. The block bounded by Genesee, Montgomery and Fayette streets was first occupied by Samuel Phelps who built a blacksmith-shop on Genesee street, it being at that time surrounded by forest trees. There was an im- mense oak tree in front of his shop, which was left stand- ing near the side-walk for years after. At this early time, when the stage-coaches made it lively on this great thor- oughfare, blacksmith-shops were a necessity, to shoe horses and make repairs. These shops and taverns were located at short distances along the whole line of the Genesee turnpike. The taverns were furnished with whiskey by a man called "Old Hersey"of Cazenovia. He was one of Mr. Phelps's best customers and his shop was kept constantly supplied with a barrel of whiskey. This article, in those days, was cheap, costing but 25 cts. per gallon; it was pure and, when drank moderately, was a good tonic. Mr. Phelps was in the habit of giving his customers a drink, and the Indians made him frequent visits and brought him fine salmon, venison, live bears and coons. These he had so well trained that he would occasionally have a fine performance under the old oak tree, to the great enjoyment of his half-civilized neigh- bors. On one occasion there was a powerful Indian chief here on a visit from Oneida Castle, and, with another 108 FROM A FOREST Indian, called on Mr. Phelps for a drink of whiskey. Mr. Phelps was busy at the time and told the big Indian to help himself, whereupon he seized the nearly-full bar- rel and, holding it up to his mouth, drank from the bung. About the year 1835 Hoyt & Billings built a carriage manufactory on the southwest corner of Genesee and Mul- berry streets, and later, in 1839, Mr. Billings built a large shop for his business on the north of what is now Billings Park. This plot of land in front of his shop he owned and cultivated, but years after he dedicated it to the city for a park with the understanding that it was to be known as Billings Park, and that the city should place a fountain in the centre. Just before the village became a city the old wagon-shop of Hoyt & Co. was removed and a fine block erected by Harvey Sheldon, which was a great im- provement upon the old shop with its surroundings of used-up and disjointed vehicles. The upper part of this block was finished for a public hall, and being so centrally located patronage was expected, but this was not realized, and accordingly it was rented to Mr. Farnham, a popular school-teacher. While engaged in changing the hall to a school-room Mr. Farnham received a call from an old gentleman who lived in a house previously used for a hotel on the opposite corner where now stands the spaci- ous residence of Mr. Crouse. The old gentleman was very talkative and seemingly took a great interest in schools, and was very desirous that Mr. Farnham should succeed. He said, in his opinion, there was no other business that required managing with more discretion than a select school. He related during the conversa- TO A CITY. IO9 tion that a popular and successful teacher prevailed upon Mr. Samuel Phelps to build a brick building on part of his lot, agreeing to rent it for a term of years for a select school, and the building was soon completed and the school commenced with most flattering prospects. The Unitarian society had their place of worship in a little chapel near the school, and the teacher was indiscreet enough to admit some of the children of the Unitarians to the school, when the Trinitarians withdrew their sup- port, and this sectarian influence was the cause of break- ing up the school. According to this old gentleman's story, sectarianism had a greater influence in those days than now. The two triangular blocks, one on each side of Genesee street, next west of Fayette Park, as late as 1847 con- tained only small and unattractive buildings, a descrip- tion of which would be uninteresting to the reader. On the north side of Genesee street, opposite the present opera house, was standing a story and a half frame build- ing painted yellow, occupied by Brower & Son as a brass foundry. Several years previous Pope & Frazer used it as a harness-shop. Next west was a rickety old building with rough outside stairs leading to Whiston & Peck's paint-shop. John Ames occupied a small store, but nearly a quarter of the block was vacant lots. A little east of the centre of the block was the location of a small chapel built in 1839 at a cost of six hundred dollars and if it had ever been adorned with a coat of paint the evidence only existed in tradition; yet it was the birth-place of three of our wealthy church societies IIO FROM A FOREST of to-day. The Unitarians, Central Baptist and Re- formed churches held services here. The Unitarian society occupied the little building for several years, and Rev. Mr. Storer was pastor. The first pastor of the Central Baptist church, Rev. A. Pinney, preached in this little chapel previous to the society erecting their brick church on East Genesee street where the Second Baptist society held their services for several years, when they sold their church to the French Catholics and built a much more expensive and elegant edifice on the corner of Montgomery and Jefferson streets. The little chapel above referred to, was ultimately occupied by John Ford for a tin-shop. At that time there was in his employ two small boys engaged in gathering rags, the mother of these boys being determined to early instil in them habits of industry, believing that any useful occupation was honor- able. She lived to see her sons honorable and wealthy citizens, one of whom now lives in a spacious mansion surrounded with beautiful adornments, and is considered one of our wealthiest and most substantial citizens, thus proving that "just as the twig is bent, the tree is in- clined." If mothers would reflect and understand more fully the great responsibilities resting upon them in the early training of their children, the world would be bet- ter. They have, to a great extent, the power of determin- ing whether their children shall be ornaments in society and filling places of importance among men, or whether by the dereliction of parental care they become candi- dates for the State's prison. The block on East Genesee street now occupid by the TO A CITY. Ill Grand Opera House, at as late a date as 1847, was partly- filled by a few small buildings and those of too little impor- tance to interest the reader. Among these were two common brick dwellings, one occupied by Dr. M. M. White. Joseph Barton purchased these and removed them to give place to the Barton Opera House. That part of the block on the point of the triangle was without a building of any description. On the corner of Genesee and Montgomery streets was a long two story wooden building painted white, the lower floor occupied by the carriage and harness-shop of Ralph Phelps who used the upper floor for his dwelling. This corner was purchased by Austin Myers who built an unattractive but substan- tial building and named it the iMyers Block, the upper part of which contained a fair-sized hall that received its full share of patronage. It was in this hall that the Syra- cuse branch of the organization known as the " Loyal League " held their meetings during the rebellion. It seems hardly credible now that such an organization should ever have been thought necessary in Syracuse, yet the lines were distinctly drawn between two classes of our citizens; one believed in putting down the rebellion if it took the last man and the last dollar, while the other class, which was greatly in the minority, sympathized with the seceded States and declared the war a failure and unjust in every respect, and opposed, so far as was in their power, our citizens in lending aid to the Govern- ment. So intense were the feelings of hatred between these two classes that one was denounced as Northern copperheads while they, in turn, branded their opponents 112 FROM A FOREST as Lincoln's hirelings. So bitter was the feeling that the loyal citizens felt insecure, believing that the copperheads might be suddenly reinforced by their Southern friends and thus create a battlefield in our midst, for it was most keenly felt that the devastations of the war were all con- fined to Southern soil, and they realized that the North could carry on the war indefinitely if it could be confined to the Southern States. This condition led to the organ- ization of a branch of the " Loyal League " which met once a week in Myers Hall. The meetings were con- ducted so secretly that no account at the time, nor since, as I remember, was ever given. The organization was composed, to a great extent, of the substantial citizens, — most generally men of middle age and those who could not, or were not expected to go to the front. The society was the most perfect that could be found, and in joining they took a strong and solemn oath not to divulge the secrets of the Order. Numerous secret signs were given by which they might be known as belonging to the League, and also for their personal safety; for instance, if any member should fall into the hands of his enemies, by slapping the hands together three times and repeating certain words, if it was heard by any member of the Order, he was obliged to at once make common cause and fight for the member of the League. But the most important part of this organization was the drill, perfect- ing a system by which a thousand or fifteen hundred men, at a signal upon a church bell, could be under arms in an hour's time, should a case of emergency require. Captain Myers, who built the Myers Block, was another TO A CITY. 113 of the self-made men of Syracuse ; his father was a New York merchant who met with reverses of fortune and died when Austin was but one year old. His mother cared for him until he was fifteen years old, when he left home for Albany where he learned the harness-maker's trade, and at the expiration of his apprenticeship of three years he married and took passage on a canal-boat, arriv- ing in the little village of Syracuse in 1833. When he landed here he had only two pieces of silver, one repre- senting 12^ cents, and the other one-half that amount. If Syracuse is noted for one thing more than another, it is that men who are willing and know how to work can always find employment. Within a few hours after his arrival, Mr. Myers found work in the harness-shop of Silas Ames, and during the year earned three hundred dollars; he then left Syracuse and commenced business in Jordan, where he remained and acquired several pieces of real estate which he sold during the campaign of 1840. Seldom in the history of Presidential campaigns did the excitement run so high as during the song-singing, hard- cider and log-cabin campaign of Gen. Harrison. Mr. Myers was a Whig and an ardent politician, and a neigh- bor who was on the opposite side, and an equally zealous Democrat, offered Mr. Myers about twice the value of his real estate with an agreement to pay for the same when Harrison was made President, which happened within a year. Mr. Myers then returned to Syracuse and located his house on the grounds now occupied by Sena- tor Hiscock on West Onondaga street. He established a line of packet-boats which he ran with success, acquir- 8 114 FROM A FOREST ing the title of Captain; but this enterprise was affected by competition with the railroads. Through his rare business qualities and energy he never met with reverses. He died several years ago, leaving an estate estimated at over half a million dollars. SOUTH SIDE OF WASHINGTON STREET, BETWEEN WARREN AND MONTGOMERY STREETS. At the junction of Montgomery, Washington and Gene- see streets stood a one and a half story building, erected in 1833, with the usual outside stairs leading from the side-walk to the second story. Dr. Glenn occupied it for his dwelling and dentist's office. Mr. L. H. Redfield bought this corner and lived in a brick house on the south part of the lot. He moved the old wooden struc- ture away and erected a one story brick building twelve by twenty feet in size, it being so small that it looked as if a strong man might carry it away. It was occupied by a German for his house and shop, and was of suffi- cient size to contain all his wealth which then comprised a few upholster's tools. That same German to-day is the owner of a hundred thousand dollars' worth of real estate ; thus we see how fickle are the wheels of fortune. In 1847 the south side of Washington street, between Warren and Montgomery streets, presented a different appearance than it does to-day, as there were only a few two story dwellings. Mr. Colwell built a bowling alley, giving it the name of Gothic Hall, a little west of the centre of the block. He died soon after, when the Stan- dard took possession of it, and that paper was printed TO A CITY. 115 there for many years. In the village days of Syracuse Timothy Teall's residence was about midway between the two streets. A Mrs. Morgan rented a small wooden building for a milliner's shop, standing near where the Journal building is now located. Mrs. Morgan's son Alonzo was then a school-boy, and afterwards he became a prominent homeopathic physician, and after a few years removed to New York for a wider field of practice. In the early days, when the village was yet small, Col. Phil- lips built a two story wooden building on the corner of Warren and Washington streets, now called the Vander- bilt corner, and lived there in the days when stage-coaches were the only means of travel for the public. ' In later years the building was rented to a German named Sigel, who fitted it up in a better style than usual for those days. His bar was made very attractive by placing mir- rors back of the numerous decanters of liquors, and to add to the attractions was a collection of birds, the cages being hung in such a manner that every movement of the inmates was reflected in the mirrors. Chief among these attractions was a parrot whose powers of speech were most remarkable. His owners claimed for him a great age, and that for fifty years he was in one of the beer gardens of Germany. This may have been true, as it is sometimes claimed that the parrot attains the age of one hundred years. This parrot seemed to be well informed in bar-room etiquette, and he would call in the most de- liberate manner for the different kinds of drinks; he was cunning and mischievous, but, unfortunately, a most pro- fane bird, and when giving utterance to his profanity the Il6 FROM A FOREST harshness of his voice was most remarkable. Mr. Sigel made his place very attractive to his German friends, as before coming to this country he had kept a beer garden and knew how to please his patrons. One of the greatest riots that ever occurred in the village of Syracuse took place at his house, where there had been great prepara- tions for a New Year's ball. At the same time there had been secret preparations among a class of Salt Point roughs who had some old grudges to settle with a few Germans who were to attend the ball. Accordingly, about ten o'clock, ** When music arose with its voluptuous swell Soft eyes looked love to eyes that spake again, And all went merry as a marriage bell," all at once fifteen or twenty roughs entered the house, proceeded to the bar and drank it dry, demanding the barkeeper to fill up, which he refused to do and ordered them again and again to leave the house, when they pro- ceeded to break the costly mirrors and fixtures in a thousand pieces. By this time the friends of Sigel had left the ball-room and come to his aid, and a pitched battle was the result. The ringleader was commanded to leave with his party, and he replied by throwing a de- canter at the head of the proprietor, which was answered by a pistol-shot, and then the fight was terrific. Pistols were freely used on both sides, everything breakable was smashed, one man was dangerously wounded, several had received shots and the floor was slippery with the blood of the enraged parties. It was not safe for the feeble force of police to attempt to enter or make arrests. It TO A CITY. 117 seemed most fortunate that Captain Teall's cadets were on drill that evening, and they were called out very un- expectedly and surrounded the house and the riot was soon quelled and the desperate characters marched up to the old jail. It was reported around town that one man had been shot dead and several others seriously wounded. There was great indignation felt against the Germans, but on understanding the case it was clear that but one side was in the wrong, and that side the attacking party of Salt Pointers. Mr. Sigel, however, soon left, and he was succeeded by Eliphalet Welch, who fitted up the place as Welch's Coffee House, and it was the most pop- ular restaurant in town for many years, he in turn being succeeded by Cook & Sons. In 1832 Mr. King, of Tully, bought the northeast corner of Warren and Fayette streets and built a two story wooden house which was occupied as a dwelling a few years and then sold to Mr. Partridge who kept it as a hotel until 1839, when he sold out his interest for one hundred acres of Lewis county land. Josiah Brintall &: Brother were the pur- chasers. The Brintalls owned the property for many years and made many additions and alterations to the house. Josiah Brintall is one of our most respected citi- zens, was Loan Commissioner for a term of years, and also Assessor for several years. He was born in Mont- gomery county in 1806. On the next lot north of the Fayette street corner in 1834 stood a small one story house, where quite an amusing episode took place. On the evening of the great fire in 1834, when the streets were lined with goods from the burning buildings, a great Il8 FROM A FOREST opportunity was offered to appropriate the goods of those who suffered by the fire, and much stealing was done, keeping the officers busy for several days afterwards look- ing for stolen goods. A call was made at the little yel- low house on Warren street, and as soon as the officers entered the house a smoky odor peculiar to smoked hams was detected. They were sure there was no mistake, yet nothing was visible and the search of every part of the little shanty revealed nothing of the kind. There was but one woman in the house and she apparently very sick in bed. The officers were so impudent as to look under the bed, yet nothing was there, and they then caught hold of the straw-tick and with a knife made an opening which revealed a half dozen fine hams. The woman was instantly restored to health, and seizing a chair, ordered the intruders out of doors. They promptly complied, taking the woman with them. This portion of Warren street midway between Fayette and Washington streets was purchased by Jason C. Wood- ruff in the days when he was running a line of stages, and he built here a sizable brick house where he lived for several years. On the back part of his large lot were the barns and sheds for his horses and stages. He sold this property to Giles Cleveland who kept a livery stable here. This part of Warren street at that time had a very untidy appearance, as the lot was filled with old worn-out vehicles of every description, from an old stage-coach to a wheel- barrow. The contrast between what it was then and the now spacious Vanderbilt can hardly be imagined. The Granger Block was built in 1844 and was burned TO A CITY. 119 on a very cold night in the winter of '49. One of our fire engines would have extinguished the flames in a few minutes, but the facilities for extinguishing fires in those days were very different from what they are now. The city had but three old style machines, worked by hand and managed by volunteer companies. These companies would organize and disband to suit their own pleasure. There was generally some feud existing between the dif- ferent companies, which frequently at fires would end in a general fight. This happened to be the case on that evening. As I remember, some slight accident happened to one of the engines, and while the foreman was making repairs there were some taunting remarks from some one belonging to another company, which were quickly re- sented and a general row was the result, and two engines were abandoned by their companies. This left but one little feeble stream directed on the fire. In those days the officers of the city knew their duty and were always on hand. I happened to be standing by the side of Alderman Wm. H. Alexander, an old gray-headed man, who took in the situation at a glance, and, springing into the crowd, took one of the ringleaders by the collar with one hand and the other just below the small of the back, he propelled him in double-quick time to the machine, and at the same time with a voice heard above all others, said : " I am an Alderman of this city, and if you don't work that machine I will lock you up." Then in an instant he had another in his iron grip; his hat was knocked off and his gray hairs were a prey to the fierce cutting winds, but his lion-like courage and energy 120 FROM A FOREST seemed to awe the rebellious firemen, and with shame they all returned to their places and worked with re- doubled exertions. But the block was doomed, and within two hours from the time the alarm was given from the bells in the church spires, two men carried a dry goods box to the centre of the street, and Gen. Granger climbing upon it gained the attention of the great crowd of people by shouting, " Hello ! Hello? the walls of the burning building will fall in a few minutes. They are changing very fast and will reach farther into the street than you think for, so if you regard your safety clear the street to a safe distance." In a few minutes there was not a piece of wall ten feet high to be seen. This block was rebuilt and again burned in 1864, the present block being erected in 1866. It we follow the history of the lot where the Larned Block now stands, back to that period when wooden buildings occupied the central por- tion of the town, we should find the north-east corner of the lot on Genesee and Warren streets occupied by Van Husen's blacksmiths shop, which was an unusually old structure on such a corner, and stood out in broad con- trast to the southeast corner of the same lot on Washington and Warren streets. Mr. Durnford owned this corner, on which was a small story and a half house painted white, with green blinds, and surrounded by a picket fence also painted white. There was a plank walk from Washington street leading to the front door and also one from Warren street leading to the side door ; along these walks were placed beds of flowers and shrubbery so neatly arranged that it gave the corner a very tasteful TO A CITY. 12 1 appearance. These two lots were purchased by Captain Larned and a very plain but substantial brick building was erected for a public house, part of the lower story being used for stores. While Capt. Larned occupied the house it was called the " Alhambra," when Mr. Durn- ford was proprietor it was called the Tremont House, and was last called the Sherman House. It was burned soon after the death of Capt. Larned, and the present Larned Block was built by his heirs, so the city is in- debted to Capt. Larned for this fine building. He was wealthy and spent his money in building up the city, and forty years ago there were few men in Syracuse bet- ter known than Capt. Larned. His early business life brought him in contact with the rougher elements of society. As soon as the Erie canal was completed, the banks were lined every few miles with littie shanties, filled with supplies for boatmen. Captain Larned con- ceived the idea of building a light, easy running craft and loading it with a fine assortment of all the supplies needed by boatmen and running the whole length of the canal, being able to furnish every boat with whatever was needed, without stopping their crafts. He was so suc- cessful in this business that he retired with a fine fortune and the title of Captain. He was a bachelor until well advanced in life, when he married a daughter of Col. Johnson and thus found himself with a young family in his old age. His strong traits of character were best drawn out during the exciting times of the rebellion, his sympathies being so strong for the union cause that he would have been tempted to help fight the battles if his 122 FROM A FOREST age had not debarred him from enlisting : but he did the next best thing by fighting the copperheads of the north whom he hated with all the intensity of his nature. I was his near neighbor during the time, and one Sunday morning as soon as it was light, every church bell in the city was rung furiously and kept the city in an uproar for half an hour. About all the people were soon in the street, but few were in full dress. Uncle Sam Larned with the rest, when, on inquiring the cause of the great tumult, he was told that Richmond was taken by the Union army. The old man was in the greatest ecstasy of delight at the news, and shouting to the people in the streets, " if the news is true I will make a bonfire to-night of that house " pointing to his home, but it was a false alarm and the bonfire was not lighted. EARLY HISTORY OF THE SITE OF THE CITY HALL. Soon after the completion of the Erie canal through Syracuse it was thought necessary to have a basin where boats could run in and be out of the way of navigation, and it was decided to locate the basin where the City Hall and square is now. An excavation from the canal south to the line of Washington street was completed and filled with water. As there was no current the water soon became offensive and one of the most intolerable nuisances that ever cursed a village existed here. Its proportions seemed so formidable that for a long time there was no attempt to abate it, as it was thought to be a necessary evil. In those days there was a large num- ber of scow-boats used to boat wood for the salt blocks. They were not in use more than half of the time, and TO A CITY. 123 this basin or frog pond, as it was called, was filled with these unsightly crafts. Many of them were neglected and sunk to the bottom, and when excavations are now made near the City Hall the workmen come in contact with these sunken crafts, and, unable to account for their existence there, think they have found the long-lost Noah's ark; but the only resemblance is, one was built of gopher wood and the other /