UIHMMllJI KM.M.m.M.M.a.MJLMJJLM aJtmJULK f ! W A RDLOCK-8C SS BOURNEMOUTH CHRISTCHURCH ^>:'IMBORNE N^'-r ^OREST • WINCHESTER ILLUSTRATEDGUIDEBOORS i maxMxxi JDKXXXMm m J^^ o^^^ J" s o<^^ ^<^ ^^OStOFFIC«>^^ «JCCEED £*° THE LIVERPOOL & LONDON & GLOBE INSURANCE COMPANY LIMITED can insure you and your property at moderate rates with maximum security FIRE - LIFE - ACCIDENT - MOTORS - MARINE Prospectus post free on request. HEAD OFFICE . 1. DALE STREET LIVERPOOL . . . LONDON . . CHIEF OFFICE 1,CORNHILL, E.C.3 Branches and Agencies throughout the World General Manager and Secretary " HUGH LEWIS CD ED EDIIDnDlIDIiDQD \^ D fiQ fee - n3 .S o ^ nJ s a 3 O 73 Pnoto /?>'] combe Chine Gardens [7. h^ .e. Park Shorter drives include the following : — Including Holdenhurst, Throop and Kinson, and the ^^® Rhododendron Forest at Heron Court (seat of the Earl of * ^ Malmesbury). At Kinson there is an old church whose tower was used by smugglers in the days when Bournemouth was a landmg place for French goods and in whose church- yard is a '* smuggler's tomb " with a very quaint inscription. Via the West Cliff Drive and Branksome Chine to Poole Ca«if Harbour and the Sandbanks. From the Haven at the Sand- ^"" banks a ferry crosses to Shell Bay, curving round to the pretty village of Studland with its tiny Norman Church and curious Agglestone Rock. The motor coaches start from the Square daily at 10.30 and 2.30, AMUSEMF^ winter and summer visitors a. urnemouth provides plenty of amusements, to which reference has already c Whv vou should insure ynur life x.ere is no other way hich you can immediately and effectually protect ^our dependents against the financial consequences of your premature death than by means of a Life Insurance Policy. There is no better way of making provision for the payment of Death Duties. There is no surer plan by which you can make provision for your own Old Age than by means of an Endowment Insurance Policy. When you should insure your life Certainly there is no time like the present to effect a Life Policy. Now, when health is good and when the premium is moderate. In such matters there is much truth in the proverb " Delays are dangerous." Besides, every year the effecting of a policy is put off the premium becomes heavier. W here you should insure your life u would be well-advised to select purely mutual of&ce such as the N: ch Union Life Insurance Society w...ch is managed solely in the interests of the policy- holders themselves. The Society is a Centenarian Office, its annual volume of new business for many years has been in excess of that of any other British Office not transacting Industrial business and, most important of all, the reserves which it holds as against its liabilities are on the strongest known basis — that of an assumed interest-earning rate of only 2j%, while its invested funds at the last valuation of assets and liabilities were written down to the specially low market prices ruling at December, 1920. Write for Latest Prospectus and Report to the Secretary, NORWICH UNION LIFE OFFICE, NORWICH, or to any Branch Office of the Society. / Series, 192 3-2^] Shaftesbury Society (RAGGED SCHOOL UNION, 1844.) Patrons : Their Majesties the King and the Queen. PIONEER IN CHILD WELFARE. 140 Branches and Cripple Parlours in POOREST LONDON Please Help us I THIS GREAT WORK URGENTLY NEEDS : L egacies S ubscriptions D onations. ARTHUR BLACK, ^en., see, „John Kirk House, 32, John St., London, W.C.i. DEAN & DAWSON, LIMITED. Travel Organisers, SPRING, SUMMER AND WINTE R HOLIDAYS AT HOME OR ABROAD. Conducted Parties to Belgium, France, Switzerland, Italy, Route des Alpes, &c. INDEPENDENT INCLUSIVE TOURS ARRANGED. bruises Round the Coast, to Norway, Canary Islands, &c. BANKING AND FOREIGN EXCHANGE. Travellers' Cheques issued In Sterling and Francs. Passports Arranged. WRITE FOR PROGRAMME OF TOURS TO DEAN 81 DAWSON, LTD. 84, Piccadilly - - LONDON, W.I. BRANCHES IN PRINCIPAL TOWNS. LIFE ASSURANCE PLUS—! The Australian Mutual Provident Society is Mutual. That is to say, all Surplus, without deduction, belongs to the Policy-holders themselves and is distributed yearly. Moreover, the Society, established in 1849, has been for many years the largest and most prosperous British Mutual Life Office. Why is this ? Because it offers to Assurers the Acme of Security and Profit, and because its satisfied members are its best advertisement. Why are policies with the A.M. P. Society so profitable? Because, while its premium rates are below the average, it possesses in a unique degree the combination of a low expense rate, a high interest return, and a favourable mortality experience. The A.M.P. Society should be covering yoii. You will be sent full particulars on apphcation. Please mention this Publication. EVERY YEAR A BONUS YEAR. Assets £50,000,000. Annual Income, £7,500,000. New Ordinary Business for 1922, £10,825,000. Cash Surplus (Ordinary Department) divided for 1921, £1,500,000. AUSTRALIAN MUTUAL PROVIDENT SOCIETY London Office : 73-76, King William Street, E.C.4, W. C. FISHER, Manager for the United Kingdom. THE GARDEN TOWN OF WALES. 3 Miles Promenade. 40 Acres Woodland Park. Golf (3 Courses), Tennis, Bowls. Safe Bathing and Boating. Delightful Walks. COLWYN BAY The Best Centre Irom which to Visit THE BEAUTY SPOTS OF NORTH WALES. Daily Excursions by Road and Rail. Illustrated Guide Book (3d. postage) from Dept. 50, Town Hall. TORQUAY AND ALL LEADING RESORTS. HOLIDAYS BUREAU 119, UNION ST., TORQUAY. ('Phone Torquay 575.) Vy E Secure Suitable and Reliable Hotel Accommodation ^^ and Apartments. Fee Moderate — refunded if not satisfied. Parties or otherwise. Invalids and Convalescents for Torquay a Speciality. Write stating requirements, mention this Guide. Stanap. " This Useful Institution." — Pan. The Most Comfortable Tea Rooms. BRIGHTON— 14, East St. BRISTOL— 24, College Green. CAMBRIDGE— 47, Sidney St. CHESTER— 27, Eastgate St. CROYDON— 44, George St. DUBLIN— 84, Grafton St. EASTBOURNE— 23, Terminus Rd. EDINBURGH— 120, Princes St. FOLKESTONE— 115, Sandgate Rd. GLASGOW- 99, Buchanan St. HOVE— 47, Western Rd. LEEDS— 32, Bond St. LINCOLN— 9, Ballgate. LIVERPOOL— 33, Sold St. „ 10, Dale St. „ 1,Ranelagh St. MANCHESTER— 42, King St. OXFORD— 24, Coraimarket St. PLYMOUTH— 50, George St. SOUTHEND— 138, High St. SOUTH SEA— 72, Palmerston Rd. WINDSOR— 19, Thames St. too, Regrent St., W. tJ6, Regrent St., W. »4, Higrh St., Kensington; W. 131, Queen's Rd , Bayswater, W. Barons Court Station, W. 27, The Broadway, Ealing, W. •0. Hl^h Street, Netting Hill Gate, W. 113, Victoria Street S.W. IdOa, Sloane St.. S.W. 42, Buckingham Palace Rd., S.W. LONOON 82, Gloucester Rd., S.W. 38, Hill Rd., Wimbledon, S.W. 71, George Street, Richmond, S w 358, Strand, W.C. 96, Southampton Row, W.C. 289, Finchley Rd., Hampstead, N.W. 131a, Finchley Rd., Swiss Cottage, N.W. Willesden Green Stn., Met. RIy., N.W. 52, Golders Green Rd., N.W. 101, Broadway, Criclilewood, N.W. 68, St. Paul's Churchyard, E.C. 1, Walbrook, E.C. 31, Gracechurch St., E.C. 51, Fencnurch St., E.C. 42, Old Broad St., E.C. 5, Broad Si., Station, E.C. 53, Queen Victoria St., E.C. 43, hoiborn Viauuct, E.C. 23, Copthall Avenue, E.G. 28, St. Swithin's Lane, E.C. 56, Gresham St., E.C. Sweets, Cakes CJM^^>^ ^Gocolates ^ ean be obtained from AGENTS IN ALL PRINCIPAL TOWNS. THE QUEEN'S HOSPITAL FOR CHILDREN, HACKNEY ROAD, LONDON, E.2, and LITTLE FOLKS HOME, BEXHILL. President - - H.R.H. THE DUKE OF YORK, K.G. 170 Beds. Over 40,000 Mothers making over 100,000 attendances bring their Sick and Injured Children to this Hospital in a year. Thesm numbers are Larger than those of any similar Hospital, Endowment Income £1,500. Expenditure £33,000 a year. Col. Lord Wm. Cecil, C.V.O., Chairman. T. Glenton-Kerr, Sec. VITALI'S ITALIAN WINES. Vital rs cxxx.A.:nr-a?x and ■^risifciMCOXT'ina: are Highly Recommended. At the Leading Hotels & Restaurants and of all Wine Merchants. Wholesale Depot : 26, Upper Thames Street, London, E.G. COUNTY FIRE OFFICE LIMITED. Head Office : 50, Regent St., London, W.l. FIRE, Loss of Profit (Fire). ACCIDENTS Of ALL KINDS Workmen's Compensation, Third Party, Personal Accident, Motors, &c. BURGLARY and THEFT. COMPREHENSIVE POLICIES for House Owners and Occupiers. Full particulars on application to Head Office, Branctaei or As:ents of the Company. Tefflperance Permanent Building Society, 4, 6,&8, LUDQATE HILL, LONDON, EX. Prompt Advances. Light Repayments. Easy Redemptions. Low Costs. ABSOLUTE SECURITY FOR INVESTORS. Shares, 4^ per cent. Deposits, 4 per cent. RESERVE FUNDS exceed £180,000. EDWARD WOOD, Manager. LOSE YOUR HOLIDAY YOUR LIFE SUFFERS. LOSE YOUR LIFE YOUR WIFE SUFFERS (AND YOUR CHILDREN ALSO). PROTECT THEM By INSURING with the Pearl Assurance Company, LIMITED, HIGH HOLBORN, W.G.I. Accumulated Funds - £32,185,009 G. SHRUBSALL, Managing Director. THE HACKBRIDGE QUARANTSNE STATION 120 minutes from Victoria, L.B. & S.C Rly.). FULLY APPROVED UNDER THE MINISTRY OF A.GRICULTURE REGULATIONS FOR Under the Management of the Committee of the Dogs' Home, Battersea. - These thoroughly Up-to-date Kennels are always available for the reception oi Dogs coming from Abroad or for BOARDERS, and are under the control oi a resident qualified Veterinary Surgeon. Terms for boarding imported dogs are from 10/- to 12/6 per week (including veterinary supervision), and full particulars may be obtained from — Inspection invited. G. GUY S. ROWLEY, Secretary, Dogs' Home, Hackbridge, Surrey. Se^STEattilSQftM "THE CREAM OF FASCINATION.", •EASTERN FOAM' stands for perfecHon in Skin Cream. Used night and morning, and after washmg, it will impart to the poorest skin a softness of texture and a clear, healthful bloom, such as can be ob tamed /by no other means. AT HOLIDAY TIME ' Eastern Foam ' is invaluable to countiiract the effects of exposure to salt-laden air and the glare of the sun. After any exercise it is delij^ht- fuily refreshing and , always beautifying Of all Chemists and Stores, Per a-Z-S: Pot. ^W2 y — at home Use ' Eastern Foam i^^«S0iiili^l» For Free Sample send lid. stamped and addressed envelope to : The British Drug Houses L^d., Graham Street, London, N.i.^ Dr. HENRY S. LUNN, Ltd.-'^H^^ Head Office : West End Office : 5, Endsleigh Gardens, London, N.W.I. 2, Albany Courtyard, Piccadilly, W.I. SPRING & SUMMER TOURS to NICE and THE RIVIERA, ITALIAN LAKES, ROME, ALGERIA, NORMANDY, THE FRENCH ALPS. SWITZERLAND, BELGIUM, THE RHINE, & EASTERN ALPS, &c. WINTER SPORTS. English Clientele; English Control. Write for Plans of Hotels at MURREN, WENGEN, M0RGIN3, PONTRESINA, &c. PRE-AFJiANGED TRAVEL (for Independent Travellers). Quotation given for ANY TOUR by ANY ROUTE. All Passports and Visas obtained. Write for Illustrated Booklet to SECRETARY, 5, Endsleigh Gardens, London, N.W,1. OR. BARNARDO'S H0I1ES. 7,285 Ohildren Need Food in these difficult times. WILL YOU SEND THEM 2/6 P Give Yourself the Joy of Helping taKeed One Destitute Little One. Cheques and Orders payable " Dr. Barnardo's Homes Food Fund " and crossed, may be addressed to the Director, Rear-Aumiral Sir Harry Stileman (Dept. WX), 18-26, Stepney Causeway, London, E.i. TRADE Demani Original Packages If you neglect cuts and wounds you run a great risk of septic poisoning ; or, at best, slow and painful healing. Al- ways promptly treat them with Vaseline CARBOLATED PETROLEUM JELLY The Antiseptic Salve. In all cases of Cuts, Burns, Wounds, and Skin Abrasions, this valuable specific is your safeguard — it helps nature heal quickly. Your nearest chemist will supply. WriU for a copy of new booklet " F09 Hralth and Beauty "—FREE. CHESEBROUGH MANFG. CO^ Consd., Willesden. N.W.10. [in Bottles at 9d. and in TnbflG. 1/- and 2/- CHURCH OF ENGLAND TEMPERANCE AND GENERAL PERMANENT BUILDING SOCIETY (Incorpcrated 18S2) 'Phone 5927 CENTRAL. Telegrams : " TERIFTDOM. LONDON." A GOOD INVESTMENT INVESTING SHARES (£25) issued ; payable in full or by instalments bearing 5% INTEREST DEPOSITS received at 4% Interest on one month's notice of withdrawal. No withdrawal fees or deductions. Interest on Investing SJiares and Deposits paid half-yearly , Free of Income Tax on ist June and ist December. ADVANCES made at moderate interest, repayable by easy monthly instalments over period of 5 to 20 years. Prompt settlements, Survey fees fixed and very reasonable. Write for Prospectus to the Secretary {Dept. 25), **Thriftdom," 26, King William Street, London, E.C.4. (Opposite Monument Station.) LAW FIRE INSURANCE SOCIETY LIMITED, No. 114, CHANCERY LANE. LONDON, W.C.2. Personal Accident and Disease. Burglary. Fidelity Guarantee. Workmen's Compensation, including Domestic Servants. Property Owner's Indemnity. Third Party. Motor Car. Plate Glass. HOUSEHOLDERS' & HOUSEOWNERS' COMPREHENSIVE POLICIES. BONDS.— The Directors desire to draw special attention to the fact that the Fidelity Bonds of this Society are accepted by His Majesty's Government and In the High Court of Justice. CHARLES PLUMPTRE JOHNSON. Esq., J. P., Chairman (Formerly of Johnson, Raymond-Barker &z Co., Lincoln's Inn). ROMER WILLIAMS, Esq., D.L., J.P.. Vice-Chauman (Formerly of Williams & James), Norfolk House, Thames Embankment. Secretary— H. T. OWEN LEGGATT. Assistant Secretary— W . R. LAWRENCE SECURITY UNSURPASSED, Every facility is afforded for the transaction of Insurance business on the most farour- able terms, and surveys, where necessarj', are undertaken by the Society free of charge. Prospectuses and Proposal Forms and full information may be had at the Society's Office. The business of this Society is confined to the United Kingdom. The Children s Champion. The NATIONAL SOCIETY for Prevention of Cruelty to Children has accomplished very much towards removing the evils which have surrounded child life in the past. Will you share in giving to unhappy Children JOY for MISERY, a FAIR CHANCE instead of DEGRA- DATION and RUIN ? Please send a Gift, large or small, according to your ability, to Robert J. Parr, o.b.e., Director, Central Offices N.S.P.C.C., Leicester Square, London, W.C.2. BARTHOLOMEW'S MAPS. Best and Most Up-to-date Maps Published. A Complete List of Maps and Plans of all Districts in England, Scotland, and Ireland, will be sent on receipt of request to the Publishers — JOHN BARTHOLOBVaEW & SON, Ltd., The Geogr>aphical Institute, EDINBURGH. DELICIO RED For Bi In makins, use lUS FRENCH WHITE & •eakfast & after LESS QUANTITY, it being » COFFEE. BLUE Dinner. 3 much stronger than ORDINARY COFFEE. The Sportsman on Holiday. HOW TO PLAY LAWN TENNIS A Simple instructive Treatise by CHARLES HIERONS, Head Professional and Coach at the Queen's Club, West Kensington. Illustrated with many Photographs. Size 7^X5 inches. Cloth. 2/6 net. At all Booksellers. WARD. LOCK & CO., LTD.. SALISBURY SQUARE. LONDON. E.C.4. AFTER TRAVEL there is nothing more refreshing than a bath with SOOTHES, PROTECTS, HEALS, Use Wright's LysoL ,t^-:. ECONOMICAL! PRACTICAL! RELIABLE! ENTIRELY NEW EDITIONS OF " The Best Cookery Books in the World. " Mrs. BEETON'S COOKERY BOOKS Mrs. BEETON'S HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT, 12/6 net Over 4,000 Recipes, besides hundreds of Illustrations and many Colour Plates. Forming a complete guide to COOKERY IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Mrs. BEETON'S FAMILY COOKERY - - - 8/6 net Nearly 3,000 Recipes, 896 pages of Letterpress and hundreds of Illustrations. Mrs. BEETON'S EVERY-DAY COOKERY - - 6/- net About 2,500 Recipes, 768 pages and numerous Colour Plates and other Illustrations. Mrs. BEETON'S ALL ABOUT COOKERY - - 4/6 net Over 2,000 practical Recipes ; 640 pages, with numerous Colour Plates and other Illustrations. Mrs. BEETON'S COOKERY BOOK - - - - 2/6 net Over 1,200 specially selected Recipes, nearly 200 Fine Illustrations and 8 Colour Plates. 384 pages. Mrs. BEETON'S COOKERY 1/3 net 650 Recipes for every-day dishes. Illustrated. 256 pages. WARD, LOCK & Co., Ltd., Salisbury Square, London, E.C.4. ASK YOUR BOOKSELLER FOR THESE NEW EDITIONS. A CENTURY OF - LIFE-BOAT WORK THIS YEAR IS THE LAST of the First Hundred Years of our Life-Boat Service. What is its RECORD ? With God's Blessing Nearly 59,000 have been saved from Shipwreck. 11 LIVES SAVED EVERY WEEK for nearly 100 years ! IF YOU ARE A MAN show vour gratitude for this SPLENDID SERVICE by subscribing to the Institution. ONE MILLION 5/- will maintain the whole Service during 1923 IF YOU ARE A WOMAN join the Ladies' Life-Boat Guild and Work for the Life-Boat Cause. Give KOW and remember the Life-Boats in your Will. They receive NOT ONE PENNY from the State. Lord Harrowby, George F. Shee, M.A., Hon. Treasurer. Secretary, ROYAL NATIONAL LIFE BOAT INSTITUTION, 22i Chaping Cross Roa^, London, WiC.2. jiiiiiiin I Royal Exchange Assurance i Incorporated a.d. 1720. fire, ltfe, sea, accident, burglary, employers' liability, motor car, plate glass, LIVE STOCK, THIRD PARTY, FIDELITY GUARANTEES, LIFT, BOILER, MACHINERY, TRUSTEE AND EXECUTOR. == Apply for full partiailars of all classes of Insicrance to the Secretary. ^= M Head Office - - ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON. E.C.3. M = or to a/iy of tJie Corpomtio/i s Branches or Agencies == == tJiroiighoiit the coimtiy. == llllllllllllllllllillilllllilillllllillllillilii USE A TOMMY'S COOKER ON YOUR HOLIDAYS. (Indoors or Outdoors.; Price 1/- or complete with Aluminium Saucepan 3/- Obtainable with Refills from all Ironmongers, or from TOMMY'S COOKER Co., Ltd., 6, Pentonville Road, London, KA. HOW to PLAY HOCKEY By HARRY E. HASLAM (English International). Profusely Illustrated with PHOTOGRAPHS CF STROKES AS PLAYED BY EXPERTS. Special Section on the Woman's Game At all Booksellers. Size 7I x 5 inches, 2/6 net. WARD. LOCK & CO.. LTD.. SALISBURY SQUARE. LONDON. E.C.I Send for a copy of o tc r ilhiitrated booklet on the use or Binoculars. Sc4it i>o.-i free on request. BINOCULARS and your Holidays. NOTHING will add so much to the delights of your holidays as a pair of Ross Binoculars. There will be hundreds of occasions when you will long to get a nearer view of some distant landscape, a far off mountain, or passing shipping. Every day a pair of Ross glasses will add to the interest and pleasure of the holiday. Things 3-0U have never seen before vnll readily come to your vision and incidents which would have otherwise passed unnoticed will reveal their story to amuse and entertain you. Get a pair cf Ross Binoculars before com- pleting your holiday arrangements, but be sure they bear the name of " Ross." These alone will give you that brilliant definition and fineness of detail which is so essential. ROSS'i Clapham Common, S.W.4. West End Showrooms, 13/14, Great Castle Street, Oxford Circus, W.l. And at 100, Deansgate, Manchester, TFd e: STANDARD BANK OF SOUTH AFRICA, limited, (with which is incorporated the AFRICAN BANKING CORPORATION, LTD.) Bankers to the Govermren'; ot the Union of South Africa in Cape Province; to the Imperial Government i i S. Africa ; and to the Administration of Rhodesia. AUTHORISED CAPITAL £10,000,000 SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL £8,916,660 PAID-UP CAPITAL £2,229,165 RESERVE FUND £2,893,335 UNCALLED CAPITAL £6,687,^95 £11,809,995 \Villiam Reierson Arbuthnot, Esq. Sir D. M. Barbour, k.c.s.i.. k.c.m.g. Edward Clifton Brown, Esq. Stanley Christopherson, Esq. Robert E. Dirknison, Esq. James Fairbairn Finlay, Esq., c.s.i. Board of Directors. Solomon B. Joel, Esq., j.p. Horace Peel, Esq. Rt. Hon. The Earl of Selbome, k.g. William Smart, Esq. Rt, Hon. Lord Sydenham, c.c.s.i., G.C.M.G., G.C.I.E., G.B.E. Head Office: 10, Clements Lane, Lombard Street, E.C.4. London Wall Branch : 63, London Wall, E.C.2. West End Branch : 9, Northumberland Avenue, W.C.2. (Opposite the Royal Colonial Institute.) New York Agency : 67, WALL STREET. Rotterdam Branch : 15, COOLSINGEL. Hamburg Agency : Bank of British West Africa, Limited, 49-53, SCHAUEiNBURGER STRASSE. OVER 360 BRANCHES, SUB-BRANCHES & AGENCIES in S. & E. AFRICA. BANKING BUSINESS TRANSACTED IN ALL PARTS of the WORLD. EXECUTORSHIPS & TRUSTEESHIPS UNDERTAKEN. DEPOSITS RECEIVED for fixed periods at rates which may be ascertained on application. Every facility afforded for the Development of Trade with all Parts of South and East Africa, the United States of America, and the Continent of Europe. Documentary Credits Arranged, Enquiries Invited. To face half-title] SOU' LYMINGTON NEWTOWN TOTIAHO BAY FRi6HvmTiR THE NEEDLES BROOK 8RIGHST0NE X ^ PTON PORTSMOUTH 5 CSBORN vVQOTTON NEWPORT OKE :i!AL£ SEAVfEW HtMBRf^ SANDOWN t H ^^^ ' ^^V^^' m DELIGHTFUL STEAMER TRiPS Through 90 Miles of Thames Scenery, Daily Service (Sundays excepted) &om May to end of Septembertr SALOON STEAMERS run daUy (Sundays excepted) between OXFORD, HENLEY, and KINGSTON. DOWN TRIP. Oxford dept. . , 9.30 a.m., 2.30 p.m. Wallingfordarr.abt. 1.45 p.m., 6^ p.m. ,. dept. abt. 2.43 p.m., 9.0 a.m. Henley arr. about 7^0 p.m., 1.30 p.m. „ dep. „ 10.0 a.m., 2.45 p.m. Windsor arr. „ 1.45 p.m., 6.50 p.m. ,j dep. „ 2.45 p.m., 9.20 a.m. Kingston arr. „ 7.0 p.m., 1.30 p.m. The through journey occupies two days each way, but passengers can join or leave the boat at any of the locks or regular stopping places. In this most pleasant of ways visits can be raade to many attractive and historic places such as Hamp- ton Court, Windsor, Maidenhead, Marlow, Henley, Pangbourne, Goring, Oxford, etc. Combined Rail and Steamer Bookings from many G.W.R. and L. & S.W.R. Stations. Time Tables giving full particulars of arrangements, fares, etc.j post free. M. ROWING BOATS of all kinds for Excursions down the River at Charges which include Cartage back to Oxford. STEAM AND MOTOR LAUNCHES for Hire by the Day or Week, and also for the Trip. Full particulars on application. UP TRIP. Kingston dep. . 90 a.m.; 2.30 p.m. Windsor arr. about 1.45 p.m.. 7.15 p.m. dep. ,. 2.45 p.m. 9.30 a.m. Henley arr. „ 7.10 p.m. 1.45 p.m. dep. i, 9.20 a.m. 2.45 p.m« Wallingford arr.,, 1.45 p.m. 7.15 p.m. „ dep. ., 2.45 p.m. 9.0 aan. Oxford arr. ♦, 7.0 p.m., 1.10 p.m. BOATS, PUNTS, CANOES, SUITABLE FOR RIVERS, LAICES, PRIVATE WATERS. A large selection, both New and Second-hand, kept in readiness for Sale or Hire. Illustrated Price Lists may be had on application. HOUSE BOATS FOR SALE OR HIRE, & ALSO BUILT TO. ORDER. SALTER BROS., Ltd., Boat Builders, 22 Folly Bridge, OXFORD. >e. Salisbury Square. LONDOl {.ujJlrUAUJJtAA " C jpictorial ant> Deecriptlve (5ui&e TO tOURNEMOUTH, POOLE, CHRISTCHURCH, THE AVON VALLEY, SALISBURY, WINCHESTER, AND THE NEW FOREST. With Plan of Bournemouth, Two Maps of the District, and Map of the Isle of Wight. EIGHTY ILLUSTRATONS Fourteenth Edition — Revised. London WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED V. ARWiCK House, Salisbury Square, E.C.4 And at Melbourne 4 \ *- "He that would bring home the wealth of the Indies must carry the wealth of the Indies with him ; so it is in travelling — a man must carry knowledge with him if he would bring home knowledge." i i MAPS AND PLANS. Plan of Bournemouth Frontispiece Bournemouth^ Ihe New Forest, etc. . . Faces page 9 Meyrick Park Golf Links .... p. z6 Queen's Park Golf Links />. 30 Swanage and District Faces page 79 The Isle of Wight ., „ 89 Winchester Cathedral (ground plan). . ^.163 CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction. — ^The Boumemouth. of Fact and of Fiction — ^Rail and Road Routes — Hotels and Tariffs ........ 9 Preliminary Information. — Miscellaneous items of interest and importance to visitors, arranged alphabetically 17 Bournemouth: History — Climate .... 38 Literary Associations ..... 44 A Geological Note 48 Round and About Bournemouth .... 50 Through Groves and Gardens , , , . ^ BOSCOMBE 64 Southbourne-on-Sea, Pokesdown and Westbourne 68 Places of Worship 72 Walks from Bournemouth 78 !• Talbot Woods 78 II. Talbot Village 79 III. Branksome 80 5 CONTENTS Walks from Bournemouth (contd,) — - IV. Canford CHffs V. Studland VI . Hengistbury Head VII. Christchurch VIII. The Stour Valley IX. Redhill Ferry and West Parley X. The Rhododendron Plantation Sea Trips from Bournemouth I. To Swanage , II. To the Isle of Wight III. To Southsea and Portsmouth IV. To Southampton . V. To Lulworth Cove . VI. To Weymouth Excursions by Road from Bournemouth Motor and Cycle Routes Poole and Parkstone The Avon Valley Christchurch Barton-on-Sea Salisbury Romsey Abbey The New Forest. Wimborne . Winchester . Bbaulieu Abbey , Index .... Directory of Hotels, Boarding Houses, Schools, Estate Agencies and Business Establishments in Great Britain and Ireland . . . .see after pm 8 and at end ILLUSTRATIONS FACES PAGE Bournemouth from the East CUff ... 20 Pier and Sands, from the West Cliff .... 21 OverclifiE Drive, looking East 28 Overclifi Drive, looking West 29 Pier Approach and West CUff 32 Upper Gardens, from the Square 33 Pier Approach ... 36 The Gardens, from Mont Dore 37 Pine Walk Pleasure Gardens 44 The Children's Comer . . 45 West CUff and Sands. . 48 East UndercUff Drive . . 49 Bournemouth, from the Pier 52 Alum Chine : Suspension Bridge 53 Meyrick Park .... 60 Winter Gardens ... 61 Boscombe 64 Boscombe Chine ... 65 Fisherman's Walk. . . 68 Westboume .... 69 Southboume .... 69 Manor Road .... 76 The Lower Pleasure Gar- dens /jy Branksome Chine ... 80 CUffs near Studiand . . 81 Heron Court .... 84 Swanage Bay .... 85 The Great Globe ... 86 Tilly Whim Caves ... 86 Corfe Castle .... 87 The Needles, Isle of Wight 90 Lulworth Cove. ... 91 Weymouth 92 Canford Manor. ... 93 St. Mary's Church and River Frome,Wareham 100 Poole Quay .... loi Tyrrell's Ford . . . .108 FACSS PAGE Cottage at Swan Green . 109 On the BeauUeuRoad, . 109 Ringwood Bridge . . . 112 Christchurch Priory Church, from the Quay . .113 And Norman House . 116 North Transept, with Norman Turret . . 117 Nave 124 SaUsbury Chantry . . 125 SaUsbury Cathedral, from the Avon .... 128 From the North-East . 129 West Front .... 129 Romsey Abbey . . . 134 Romsey Bridge . . . 135 Beech at Mark Ash . . 138 The Road to Minstead . 139 Oak in Queen's Bower Wood 139 and A Meet near Lyndhurst Lyndhurst Fresco. Beeches at Mark Ash Mark Ash . Autumn Leaves SpUtting Beeches Knight wood Oak Ruf us's Stone . Lyndhurst Church King's House . The Stour at Wimbome Wimbome Minster Chained Library Nave .... Bridge Queen Elizabeth's Gram mar School Church House . Winchester Cathedral : The Reredos. Choir Stalls . . . City Cross The Deanery Statue of King Alfred Oldest House St. Cross: The Church BeauUeu Church . Pulpit and Early EngUsh • Arcade 171 144 145 148 148 149 149 150 151 151 154 155 156 156 157 157 157 160 161 161 166 167 167 170 171 t WARD. LOCK d Co.'s ,- g-xjii>:e: :booics BNGIiJLlID Anslesey aaA KoxtSi Wala Baacror, &o. Bannoath. ^o. B&rnstaplo and R.W. Devon Bfttbi. Wella, fto. Bottws>y-Coed, Saowdon, Aw. BezhiU and Bistriot Bidetord, Westward Eo 1 fte. Boimor and 8.W. Sxissex Boarnemoath and District Brecon and South WaJisii Bridlington and District Bridport, West Bay, &e. BnghtoQ and Hove Broads, The Broadstairs and N^ Eexi& Bnde and North CorawaU Badleii^ Salterton. &e. Buxton and Peak District Canterbury and H.B. Kent Cardiff and Sooth Wales Carnarvon and lilorth Waloe Channel Islands Chichester and S.W. Sosaex Clevedon and District Oolwyn Bay CoDway, Deg^anwy, Sue. C^riocieth and Cardigan Bay Cromer and District Dartmoor Dawlish and 8.B. Devon Deal, Walmer. &e. Dover. St. Margaret's Bay. fta. Doverconrt, Harvrich. fto. Eastbourne^ Sealord. &o. Bxeter and S.E. Devon Bxmonth and District Valnsouth and S. Cornwall PeUxstowe and District Filey and District Folkestone, Sandgate, &e. Fowey and South Cornwall Earrogate and District Hastings, St. Leonards, fte. Hereford and Wye Valley Heme Bay. Wbitstable, fte. Hytbe. Littlostone, See, nsracombe and V. Devon Isle o! Man Isle of Wight Lake Diitriet The SCOTIiAMD. Aberdeen, Deoside, &o. Edinburgh and District Glasgow and the Clyde Highlands, ¥he Inverness and N. Highlands Oban and W. Highlands JLHD I««amtiigton, Warwiok, fte. IiittMhampton and S.W. Sufftjt Liverpool, Birksnhesd. fto. Llandrindod Well*, Lowestott and District Lyme Regis and DiatritN Lyntott and Lyumoath Malvern and District Margate and M.E. Kent Matlock^ Dovedale, &c. Minehead, Bzmoor, fte. Hewquay and N. Cornwall Nottingham and District Paignton and 8. Devon Penmaenmawr, Llanfairfechao, RER TERRACE ROAD. CTANDS in its Own Beautiful Grounds, in elevated position, and commanding splendid views of the Sea and surrounding country. Three minutes' walk from Winter Gardens and five from the Pier. South Aspect. Full Board from 2i Guineas, accord- ing to Season and Rooms chosen. Separate Tables. Billiard Saloon. House Heated with Radiators Throughout. Full particulars on application to the PROPRIETRESS. Bournemouth HOUSE AG E NTS Cau)rence$ OPPOSITE FISHERMAN'S WALK. West Southbourne, BOURNEMOUTH. Map and List of Houses free on application. 'Phono 102 S'BOURNE. Bournemouth BOURNEMOUTH. yy EN DALBURY PENSION Rnyveton Road. ^ CC"'"^^^ 1 ^9 r ^ ii^^PS^^Wraf Ml 1 ^^B ^^w wi ■ 1 ^^i CHARMINGLY Situated amongst the Pines on the East Cliff, with South Aspect. Near Sea, Shops, & Amusements. Gas Fires in Bedrooms. Eiecttic Light. Separate Tables. Excellent Cuisine. Terms Moderate. Tariff on Application. 'Phone 798 Bournemouth. Under the Personal Supervision of Mr. &MRS.W.L. HORSPOOL. PLEASE MENTION THIS GUIDE. BOURNEMOUTH (West Cliff). "THE BUCKINGHAM" En Pension, WEST MIl^l. ROAD. CONVENIENTLY Situated on West Cliff. Only two minutes from Cliffs, Trams, Winter Gardens and Shops. Five minutes from the Pier. Electric Light Throughout. Separate Tables. An Excellent and Varied Cuisine. TERMS from 21 Guineas, according to Season and Rooms selected. These Terms do not apply for less than a week. Book to West Station. Mrs. E. J. COLLARD & Mrs. K. BALFOUR, Proprietresses. Bournemouth \ BOURNEMOUTH. Collingwood Private Hotel KERLEY ROAD, WEST CLIFF. FAl-1N*j aue South, ovenuukiiig Sea and Pier. Every Modem Con- venience. Billiards (Full-size Table). Electric Light. Central Heating. Telegrams : *' Colossal, Bournemouth." » 'Phone 931. Mrs. H. E. BUTLER. BOURNEMOUTH. (i THE NEILGHERRIES" Boarding Establishment, BEAUTIFULLY Situated, Standing in its Own Grounds, on East Cliff, Facing South. Two minutes from Lift. Convenient for Trams and Stations. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Tariff. Nearest Station, Central. Mrs. SUTTON, Proprietress. Bournemouth BOURNEMOUTH (West Cliff). BEECHWOOD BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT, IN Elevated Position, away from, noise of Traffic, yet most con- venient for Shops and Trams. Close to Winter Gardens, Sea, and Pier. Gas Fires in Bedrooms. Open View from Windows. Excellent Cuisine. Every Convenience. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. Phone 2354. Mrs. CUMBERLAND. Proprietress. BOURNEMOUTH. Abbcymount High-class Private Hotel, PRIORY ROAD. Situated on West Cliff, and standing in its Own Grounds. Facing full South, with Sea Views. An Ideal Summer or Winter Residence. SEPARATE TABLES. EXCELLENT CUISINE. GAS FIRES IN ALL BEDROOMS. Electric Light Throughout. Moderate Terms. Full particulars from the PROPRIETRESS. Bournemouth BOURNEMOUTH. BOURNEMOUTH. HOUSE AND ESTATE AGENTS ALLAN <& BATH. Offices, 57, CHARMINSTER RD. H. F. BATH. Lists of all Properties and Map R. E. BATH. 'Phone No. 570. Free on Application. BOURNEMOUTH (West Cliff). DEVON TOWERS PRIVATE HOTEL. ENLARGED AND REDECORATED. CTANDING on the Famous West CHff, 120 ft. above Sea level, and close to Sea, Pine Woods and Winter Garden. Five minutes from Pier, Public Gardens, and Centre of Town. Electric Light Throughout. Comfortable and Well- appointed Dining, Drawing, and Smoke Rooms. Billiard Room, with Full-size Table (by Padmore). Recreation Room and Lounge. Full particulars from Mrs. MINCHINTON. 'Phone 1266. Bournemouth BOURNEMOUTH. FAIR WOOD CHRISTCHURCH ROAD, (EN PENSION) ** FAIRWOOD " is a Large Detached Residence on the East Cliff, South Aspect, Centrally Situated, being only a few minutes from Pier, Gardens, Theatres, and Principal Shops. Close to Queen's Park Golf Links and Tennis Courts. THE HOUSE IS FITTED WITH ELECTRIC LIGHT. GAS FIRES IN BEDROOMS. Private Beach Tent for Bathing:. Boole Central Station. Write for Tariff, Mr. & Mrs. LEONARD A. DAVEY. BOURNEMOUTH. SUNNY HALL BOARDING ESTAB. St.Swithtn'sRoad (Three minutes from Central Station). CTANDS in its Own Grounds, amongst the Pines. Near Golf Course, and only a few minutes from Bowling Greens, Tennis Courts & Pleasure Gardens. Cook- ing a Speciality, & Liberal Fare. Boarding Terms ir. 2i Gns. Special Terms from Nov. to February. Under the Personal Supervision of Mr. & Mrs. CANNON, Proprietors. lO Bournemouth BOURNEMOUTH. ST. MARGARET'S Boarding Establishment Priory Road, West Cliff. CTANDING in its Own ^ Grounds on the most fashionable part of West Cliff. Over- looking Winter Gardens and close to Sea, Pier, Theatre and all Amuse- ments. Near Golf Links. Large and Airy Rooms. Refurnished Throughout. Electric Light. Sep. Tables. Ex. Cuisine. Tenns from 3 gns. per week. For Tariff apply Mrs. SUTTON. BOURNEMOUTH (West Cliff). cc 9» FIRST-CLASS DURLEY GARDENS. /^CCUPIES an Unique Position on the West Cliff, near ^-^ Sea, Winter Gardens and Pine Walk, and only a few minutes from the Pier. Comfortable Dining, Drawing and Smoke Rooms. Lounge. Electric Light Throughout. Separate Tables. Gas Fires in all Bed- rooms. Tariff and full particulars from Tel. No. 1704. The PROPRIETRESS. Bournemouth t BOURNEMOUTH WEST I r and GANFORD CLIFFS For all available Properties ta be LET or SOLD, Apply to— B. R. MARSH-EDWARDS, Auctioneer and Estate Agent, Poole Road, Westbourne, Bournemouth. 'Phone 3107. 126, Old Christchurch Road, Bournemouth. 'Phone 585. "THE HAVEN"?."..,.., First-clas5. Central yet Quiet Position. Convenient for Sea and Golf Links. Redecorated and Refurnished Throughout. Electric Light. Separate Tables. Inclusive Terms from 3 Guineas. NO VEXATIOUS EXTRAS. Uuder Personal Supervision of Resident Proprietors — 'Phone 1153. Mr. & Mrs. L. H. PETERS (late of Grand Hotel) . BOURNEMOUTH WEST. OAKLANDS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT, ON THE WEST CLIFF. Few minutes Pines, Sea, Gardens and Square. TERMS VERY MODERATE. Tel. 2970. Apply Miss W. L. KEAN. Ci OAKLANDS"^ ' con- sists of Three Houses standing to- gether in own E^xtensive Grounds, facing South. Well- appointed and Comfortable Lounge, Dancing and Recre- ation Rooms. 40 Bedrooms with Gas Fires. Electric Light. Cooking and all Household Arrangements are under Personal Supervision. Eoumcmoiith BOURNEMOUTH. "HARRABY" En Pension, BOSCOIrlBE SPA ROAD. HIGH-CLASS Residence. Beautifully and Most Comfortably Furnished. South Aspect. Lovely Garden. Sea Views. Large Sunny Drawing Room, Dining Room (Separate Tables). Very Comfortable Lounge Hall and Conservatory. Central Heating. Gas Fires in Bedrooms. Electric Light Tnroughout. Highly Recommended. Special Winter Terms. Excellent Supervision. Sanitary Certificate. 'Phone 676. Tariff and Full Particulars from the PROPRIETRESS. CHINE HOUSE (Private Hotel) 18, 19, 20, UNDERCLIFF, BOSCOMBE, BOURNEMOUTH. pHARMINGLY Situated on the East Cliff, facing Sea. • Full South, with ^ ' Balconies overlooking Sea and Chine Gardens. One minute from Pier, Promenade and Tennis Courts. Convenient to Golf Links, Trams & Shops. Electric Light Throughout. Central Heating. Gas Fires in Bedrooms. Separate Tables. Terms Moderate. Tariff on Application. ' Telegrams, "Chine House, Boscombe." 'Phone Bournemouth 411. Bournemouth 13 BOURNEMOUTH HYDRO With Sun Lounge & Marine Balcony, overlooking Sea and Pines, and Promenade. RESIDENT PHYSICIAN. MODERATE. Steamer, _ j_ Motor, Amusements coach, Excursions, Indoor Games. Turkish Radiant p^ . . Electric BSLtllS Sea=water Nauheim High Frequency Installation. Massage by Skilled Operators. Teh.: *' Hydro, Bournemouth" Illustrated Prospectus from Sec. BOURNEMOUTH (West Cliff). kk SOUTHLEA 5 J Private Hotel, DURLEY ROAD. CTANDING in its Own Grounds, near Sea, Winter Gardens, and only a few minutes from Pier. Tennis Court and Garden attached. Well- apixDinted and Comfortable Dining, Drawing and Smoke Rooms. Separata Tables. Lounge. Electric Light. Terms from 3-4 Guineas. Book to West Station. Tel. No. 1852. Mr. & Mrs. SCHOFIELD. PRIVATE HOTEL, BOURNEMOUTH (West Cliff). GLIFFSIDE DURLEY GARDENS, ^NE minute to Sea, near Winter Gardens and Pier. Comfortable Dining, Drawing and Smoke Rooms. Lounge. Electric Light Throughout. Baths (H. & C). Gas Fires in Bedrooms. Moderate Terms. Under the Personal Supervision of Mr. & Mrs. WOODWARD, Proprietors. BOURNEMOUTH— Exeter Road Well-appointed. Electric Light Throughout. Gas Fires in all Bedrooms. 'PiioTie 1096. Terms irom 3 Guineas. ' Woodleigh Tower, Bournemouth ' The Misses DIXON & CHAFFEY. 14 Bournemouth BOURNEMOUTH (West Cliff). WARWICK GliEN First-class Boarding Establishment j WEST HILL ROAD. CITUATED in one of the Best Positions on the West Cliff. Two minutes •^ to Sea Front, Pier, Winter Gardens, Shops and Trams. Convenient to West Station, and for Golf Links. Excellent and Liberal Cuisine. Separate Tables. Boarding Terms from 2i guineas. The Establishment is personally conducted by The Misses MA RLE Y. BOURNEMOUTH . " GOLTHO " ""b&.ng ^^^^■- ■ ■ "^^ ESTABLISHMENT 45, Christchurch Road. CHARMINGLY Situated on the East Cliff, and sheltered from Cold Winds, amongst the Pines. Five minutes' walk trom Central Station, and two minutes from the Sea. Electric Cars stop 50 yards from door. Central Heating Throughout. Private Tennis Courts in the Grounds. Gas Fires in Bedrooms. Boarding Terms Strictly Moderate. Tel. No. 2380. Apply PROPRIETRESS. BOURNEMOUTH. miiiun " PENSION, " OOTACAMUND " ^'* Fir Vale Road. CENTRALLY Situated, facing due South, about 10 minutes from each Station, two trom Gardens and Theatre, and five from Pier and Sea Front. Excellent Cuisine. Separate Tables. Comfortable Smoking, Dining and Drawing Rooms. Boarding Terms fr. 2i guineas, according to Season and Rooms. Mrs. J. E. DENNES. BOURNEMOUTH, BEVERLEY HOUSE For FURNISHED APARTMENTS or BOARD-RESIDENCE. pONVENIENTLY Situated, 3 minutes from Central Station and Trams ^-^ to all parts, A Homely and Comfortable Establishment, with Excellent Cooking and Liberal Fare. Highly Recommended. Boarding Terms from 2i guineas, according to Season and Rooms chosen. Full particulars from Mrs. a. HABGOOD, Proprietress. Boumemoutli — Brockenhurst 1,5 BOURNEMOUTH. 2, SOUTHCOTE ROAD, For FURNISHED APARTMENTS or BOARD-RESIDENCE. Only 3 mins. from Central Station, and main Tram Route for all parts. 5 mins. to Sea Front. A Comfortable and Inexpensive Establishment. Special Winter Terms. Full particulars from Miss WALKER, Proprietress. BOSCOMBE. CHINE HALL SPA ROAD. First-Glass Boarding Establishment. Commanding-Magnificent views of Sea & Boscombe Chine. S. Aspect. Five mins. from Sea and Pier. Two mins. to Tennis Cts^ and 10 mins. to best Golf Links. Separate Tables. Smoking- Room. Mode- rate Terms Established over 28 years. Mrs. & 5liss CLARKE, Proprietresses. BOURNEMOUTH (West Cliff ). Aliington Grange PRIVATE HOTEL, STAXDING in Own Grounds, facing Sea, and commanding iine View of the Bay. Xear Pier, Gardens. Golf Links and Tennis Courts. Excellent Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Every Comfort. Gas Fires in Bedrooms. Elec. Light. Moderate Terms. Apolv Mr. & Mrs. T. J. GUNN, Proprietors. .^ BROCKENHURST. In the Heart of the New Forest. EN PENSION The BRIARS IS the Best and Most Desirable BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT in the * Locality. High-class and Most Reasonable and Accommodating Terms. Two minutes walk from the Station. Late Dinners. Pleasant Garden. Charming Aspect. Private Apartments if desired ; also Flat to Let. Inclu- sive Terms and all Particulars from the Proprietor, Mr. C. p. JONES (late Roberts). t6 Bournemouth BOURNEMOUTH, East Cliff. WIMBLEDON HALL Comfortable Private Hotel and Boarding Establishment. MAGNIFICENT SITUATION AMONG THE PINES. Ten minutes from Central Station. Four minutes from Sea. Well Warmed in Winter. HOUSE PARTY EXCURSIONS IN SUMMER. Fine Lotinge. Entertainments. Billiards (full size). Dining Room seats no. Separate Tables. OWN POULTRY AND VEGETABLE FARM IN NEW FOREST Terms from SJ Guineas per iveeAr. Illustrated Tariff Free. Telephone No. 886. BOURNEMOUTH, THE NEW FOREST, &c ^/ n ^ s^^-^^'-'^rrz^jy 'rrm "fi (^"' I i INTRODUCTION. Thee Bournemouth of! Fact and of Fiction — Rail and Road Routes — Hotels and Tariffs. THEREfare two Boumemouths — one of fact, the other of fiction. The real Bournemouth is the town with the equable climate all the year round, happily placed between two double-tidal estuaries, and in summer swept by breezes and ranking among the coolest of seaside resorts ; while in winter, protected from keen winds, its climate is pleasantly temperate. The unreal Bournemouth is the town that is mild in winter and enervating in summer ; a refuge for the weak-chested to whom a breeze comes as a poisonous breath ; the last place to which the robust, who can face a stiS breeze and rejoice, should come. The latter and utterly untrue conception of the cHmate of Bournemouth is gradually losing ground in face of the experience of visitors, the testimony of experts, and the figures issued daily by the Meteorological Society. The attractions of Bournemouth are manifold. Liberal pro'^rision for golf, tennis, bowls and other out-door games ; pleasure gardens where some of the best instrumental music in the kingdom can be enjoyed ; two piers ; steamers that in normal times ply to almost every pleasant spot along the coast from Brighton to Torquay, and even across the Channel ; within easy distance monuments of ancient England as majestic as the Priory at Christchurch and the Minster at Wimbome ; and within a short railway journey the stately cathedrals of Winchester and SaUsbury, and the abbeys of Romsey, Sherborne and Bindon. The town is cut in two by a long park of exceeding beauty, down which a brook babbles ; many a road is Hke a forest glade ; and it is but a short walk to the shade of the solemn pines in Talbot Woods ; while there are daily excursions by road or rail to the widespread wonderland of the New Forest. Of all these attractions — so many, so varied, and so alluring — it is the purpose of this book to tell. 9 10 RAILWAY ROUTES ROUTES TO BOURNEMOUTH. (a) By Railway. The journey from Waterloo is one of great interest, par- ticularly when Winchester is reached, with the view of the city on the left, and, a mile farther, a glimpse of Holy Cross Church in the same direction. Soon the train skirts for some distance the shores of Southampton Water, and then runs through the southern borders of the New Forest, giving many a pleasant view of woodland and common. The last noteworthy sight before reaching Bournemouth is the grey Priory of Chrisjchurch. Single Tickets from Waterloo to Bournemouth Central, 31 s. 6d. and 15s. gd. Return (two months), 55s. i^d. and 28s. The fares to Bournemouth West Station are sHghtly higher. Routes from the Midlands and the North . Bournemouth West Station is not only a terminus of the London and South- West em Railway, but it is in direct com- munication with the Midland system by the running rights acquired over the Somerset and Dorset Railway, so that passengers by the Midland route are saved the inconvenience of changing stations on the way. By the Great Northern Railway passengers from Scotland and the North of England travel to King's Cross, from which station a subway leads to the G.N. Piccadilly and Brompton railway station, whence electric trains run at frequent intervals to Waterloo, the London terminus of the L. & S.W.R. By the London and North Western Railway the route is vid Euston and Waterloo. By the Great Central Railway there is a through express service vid Banbury and Oxford. By the Great Western Railway there is a through express service vid Basingstoke. (6) Motor and Cycle Routes. London to Bournemouth. From Hyde Park Corner the route for motorists and cyclists is westward to Hammersmith Broadway, and through Turnham Green to King Edward VII Bridge at Kew (6 m.). Continue through Brentford to Hounslow, where turn left by ROAD ROUTES 11 London County, Westminster & Parr's Bank. Then by Bed- font and Staines (i6|- m.), where turn to right beyond river, and at Egham bear to left along High Street. Half a mile beyond church is the foot of Egham Hill, where bear left up the stiff ascent, followed by a level stretch and a run down to Virginia Water (20} m.). On to Bagshot (26 J m.). About a mile beyond, at the fork by the Jolly Farmer, take road leading to right by way of Blackwater and Hartley Row (36^ m.). A mile on keep to the right for Basingstoke (45 J m.). At the farther end of the town, by the Wheatsheaf Inn, turn to left, thus leaving the Exeter road. At Popham Lane (52|- m.) bear left through King's Worthy into Winchester (62f m.). Turn to right at George Hotel, pass through West Gate, left along St. James's Street into Romsey Road, and it is easy riding to Hursley {6yl m.), half a mile beyond which keep to the right. Up the long rise to Knapp Hill and then to Romsey (73^ m.). Leaving Romsey by way of Bell Street and Middlebridge Street, cross the bridge and cHmb the hill. Bear left at top, and it is easy running to a stream, just beyond which, turning to left, is Ower [yy m,). After crossing a second stream keep to right, and to left this side of Cadnam for Lyndhurst (82 m.). Turn to right in the main street, and to left at Swan Inn, then on through Bank (83 J m.) to Holmesley Station (89 J m.). Two miles beyond the station bear left, and there is a long easy descent, followed by level road through Hinton and Purewell into Christchurch (97 J m.). After crossing the two river bridges within view of the Priory turn to right, and at Ante- lope Inn to left. Beyond Iford Bridge bear left and follow^ the Christchurch Road to Bournemouth (102^ m.). Bristol to Bournemouth. Follow tramlines along Victoria Street to BrisUngton. Then make for Keynsham (2 J m.), keeping to right at church ; bear left, and left again along main road to Newton Gate. Turn to left over railway and river, and by Upper Bristol Road enter Bath {12,^ m.). Leave Bath by Milsom Street and New Bond Street, and at tramlines turn right along Northgate Street, and to left down Bridge Street and Great Pulteney Street, where keep bearing to right for Limpley Stoke (18 m.). The road is now direct (avoiding turning on left to Trowbridge) through Wool- verton and Shawford to Beckington (24!- m.). Here turn left for Warminster (314 m.), where turn left again and at market-place to right along main road to Heytesbury, beyond which keep to right and go through Deptford (42 m.) for L 12 ROAD ROUTES Stapleford, where bear right. Beyond railway follow main road to Salisbury (52 J m.). From Sahsbury, by way of Catharine Street and Exeter Street, to river, and, crossing this, turn left uphill and on through Britford and Bodenham to Downton (58 J m.). Turn left at Lloyds Bank, Fordingbridge (63 J m.), and to right beyond river. Turn left on reaching Ringwood (69 m.). Thence by way of Sopley and Staplecross to Ghristchurch {yS m.). Turn right after crossing the two river bridges within sight of the Priory and at Antelope Inn keep to left and to left again over Iford Bridge through Boscombe to Bournemouth (83 1 m.). The Midlands to Bournemouth. Taking Birmingham as a representative centre for the Midlands, we have two road routes to Bournemouth, of about equal distance. Route A. — From Birmingham by way of Moseley, Kings- heath and Studley to Alcester (20 m.). On through Norton to Evesham (29 m.), and by way of Bengeworth and Hinton to Teddington (38 m.) ; then through Bishop's Cleeve to Cheltenham (45 J m). Thence through Painswick to Stroud (59^ m.); on to Rodborough and Nailsworth (63 J m.), and by way of Cold Ashton to Bath (88 m.). For Bath to Bourne- ( mouth see previous route. Distance from Birmingham to Bournemouth, 159 m. Route B. — Leave Birmingham by way of Sparkhill, Shirley and Henley-in-Arden for Stratford-upon-Avon (23 m.). Then through Shipston-on-Stour and Woodstock to Oxford (61 J m.). From Oxford, through Abingdon to Newbury (2,^ m.), then via Litchfield and Whitchurch to Winchester (113 m.). Turn right at George Hotel, pass through West Gate, turn left up St. James' Street into Romsey Road, then on through Hursley to Romsey (124 m.). The road is now by way of Lyndhurst and Ghristchurch to Bournemouth (154 m.). Accommodation in Bournemouth. Speaking generally, the charges for hotel and other accom- modation are moderate, and considerably lower than those ruling in small places where there is only a short summer season. Furnished apartments are offered in numbers so great along the several miles' stretch east and west of and between the two piers that even the visitor who arrives in the middle of the summer season need not be hopeless about finding shelter. HOTELS AND TARIFFS 13 Furnished houses in touch with the promenade vary, according to position, from ten to twenty-five guineas per week. Rooms at reasonable prices may be found at Pokes- down, Winton and other residential districts away from the sea front. There the charges may be as low as 15s. per room, the cost naturally advancing in proportion with the nearness to the front. To the stranger needing guidance as to apartments or the renting of houses, furnished or un- furnished, the local house agents will gladly act as advisers. Hotels and Tariffs. Hotels of the highest class are numerous, while the visitor of modest means can select from a legion of private hotels and boarding houses ; and even the stranger who has no guidance may safely choose at will, for Bournemouth's fame in respect of these establishments is wide and well deserved. The tariffs given on the following pages were obtained by direct inquiry of the proprietors, but since the War there have been so many fluctuations of price that the terms are inserted only as an approximate indication of the grade of the various establishments and should in all cases be verified by previous inquiry. [Abbreviations: R., bedroom; b., breakfast; I., luncheon; t., tea; d., dinner; a., at- tendance; fr., from; temp., temperance. Week-end terms include dinner or supper on Saturday and breakfast on Monday.] Bournemouth. Arnewood, West Cliff. Branksome Tower. Carlton, East CUff. Central, The Square : R., single, 5/6 ; . double, 11/-; b.y 3/6; l, 3/6; i., ^ 1/3 ; d., 5/-. Boarding terms : fr. 17/6 per day ; fr. 105/- per week ; fr. 35/- per week-end. Durley Dean Hydro. Grand : R., single, 7/- ; &., 4/- ; L, 4/-; t.,1/6; d.,7/-. Boarding terms : 21/- per day. Hlghcliff, West Clifi. Hydropathic : R., single, 5/- ; double, 7/6 ; b., 3/- ; I., 3/6 ; t., 1/- ; d., 5/- ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 16/- per day ; fr. 94/6 per week ; fr. 30/- per week-end. Imperial, Lansdown, East Cliff, Lansdowne, Christchurch Road : R., single, 6/- ; double, 12/- ; b., 3/6 ; L, 3/6 ; t., 1/6 ; d., 5/-. Boarding terms : 15/- per day ; 105/- per week. Bournemouth. Linden Hall Hydro : Boarding terms : fr. 105/- per week. Manchester, St. Michael's Road. M6trop51e, Christchurch Road : R., single, 7/- ; double, 14/- ; b., 5/- ; /., 5/- ; t; 1/6 ; d., 7/6. Boarding terms : 25/- per day ; 147/- per week ; 50/- per week-end. Midland {temp.), Queen's Road, near West Station : R., single, fr. 3/6 ; double, fr. 6/6 ; b., fr. 2/9 ; /., fr. 2/9 ; t., fr. 1/6 ; d., fr. 3/6 ; a., i/-. Boarding terms : fr. 12/- per day ; 72/6 per week ; fr. 22/6 per week-end. Norfolk, Richmond Hill. New Savoy, West Cliff. Osborne, Exeter Road. Queen's, Bournemouth East. Royal Bath, Bath Road. Royal Exeter, Exeter Road : R., single, 7/6 ; double, 17/6 ; &., 4/- ; /., 5/-; t.,2/-; d.,7/6. Boarding terms : 25/- per day ; 157/6 per week ; 50/- per week-end. 14 HOTELS AND TARIFFS [Abbreviations: JR., bedroom; b.. breakfast; I., luncheon; t, tea; d., dinner; c, at- tendance ; fr., from ; temp., temperance. Week-end terms include dinner or supper on Saturday and breakfast on Monday.] PRIVATE HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES. Crag Hall, West Cliff. Wimbledon Hall, East Cliff. Paragon, West Cliff Gardens. Beechwood, St. Michael's Road, West Clilf : Boarding terms : fr. 9/- per day ; fr. 63/- per week ; fr. 27/- per week-end. ColUngwood {private), Kerley Road, West Cliff : R., single, 6/6 ; double, 13/-; b.,2/6; /., 2/6; t.,i/-; iL, 3/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terms : f r. 9/6 per da y ; fr. 63/- per week ; fr. 21/- per week-end. Devon Towers, West Cliff. Silver How, West Cliff Gardens. Woodleigh Tower, Exeter Road : R.. single, 4/- ; double, 7/6 ; b., 2/6 ; I, 3/- ; t., I/- ; d., 4/6. Boarding terms : fr. 12/- per day ; fr. 84/- per week ; fr. 24/- per week-end. Buckingham, West Hill Road. Oaklands, West Cliff. Woodheath, Knyveton Road. Haven, Lansdowne Road. Abbey Mount [private), Priory Road : Boarding terms : 12/6 per day ; 73/6 per week ; 25/- per week- end. Eaglescllfle, Durley Gardens: R., single, 4/- ; double, 7/6 ; b., 2/6 ; Z., 2/6; t.,i/-\ d.,3/e. Boarding terms : fr. 9/- per day ; fr, 63/- per week ; fr. 17/6 per week-end. Southlea, Durley Road, West Cliff: R., single, 5/- ; double, 10/- ; b., 2/6 ; /., 3/- ; i-> I/- ; d., 3/6 ; «., nil. Boarding terms : fr. 12/6 per day ; fr. 63/- per week ; fr. 22/6 per week-end. CUflside. Nellgherries, Grove Road. Fairwood, Christchurch Road. House and Estate Agents. Lane & Smith, 81, Old Christehurch Road. Lawrence's, 46, Seaboume Road. Rebbeck Bros., Gervis Place. Allan & Bath, Charminster Road. B. R. Marsh-Edward's, Poole Road and Old Christchurch Road. Neaum & Neaum, Albert Road. W, H. Willoughby, Holdenhurst Road. Boscombe. Burlington, Owls Road. Boscombe Bay. Chine. Pier. Salisbury, Christchurch Road : R., single, 7/6 ; double, 15/- ; b., 3/6 ; /., 3/6 ; t., 1/3 ; d., 6/-. Boarding terms : 18/- per day ; 112/- per week; 21/- per week-end. Boscombe Spa. Clifton, Undercliff. Beaulieu. Montague Arms : /?., single, 6/- ; double, 10/- ; 6., 3/- ; /., 3/6 ; /., 1/6; ^.,5/-; «.,!/-. Boarding terms : 20/- per day ; 126/- per week. Brockenhurst. Balmer Lawn. Rose and Crown. Morant Arms : R., single, 6/- ; double 10/- ; b., 3/- ; /., 3/6 ; /., 1/6 ; i., 6/-. Boarding terms : 15/- per day ; 105/- per week. Briars (private). Christchurch. Antelope. King's Arms. HOTELS AND TARIFFS 15 A-BBKEViATiOKS : B., bedroom ; i., breakfast; I., luncheon; t., tea; d., dinner;! a., at- tendance ; fr., from ; temp., temperance. Week-end terms include dinner or! sapper on Saturday and breakfastion Monday.. _ ihlp. White Hart : R., single, 3/- ; double 5/-; b. 3/-; ^•>3/-. 1 Lymington. i-lBgel : R', single, 4/- ; double, 8/- ; , 6., 3/3; i'» 3/6; <., 1/6; d.,4/-; «.» I/-- I Boarding terms .'490/- per week. liondesborouglL House and Estate Agents. Lewis & Badcock. Lyndhurst. Crown, c Stag : R., single, 4/- ; double, 7/6 ; b;3/6; I., 3/6; t.,1/6; ^., 5/-. Boarding terms : 14/6 per day ; 94/6 per week ; 27/6 per week- end. Milford-on-Sea. Vletoria. Poole. Antelope. Haven, Parkstone; /., 5/6;'/., 1/9 ' d., 8/6. London. Ringwood. White Hart. Bomsey. Abbey : R., single, fr. 4/- ; double, ir,7/-; 6., 2/6; ;,3/-; t fr. 1/3 ; a., fr. 3/6 ; a., nil. Boarding terms : 12/6 per day ; 80/- per week; 24/-perweek- , end. ■Dolphin. Phoenix. White Horse : R., single, 7/- ; double, 11/6; 6., 3/-; /., 3/6; /., 1/6; ley. In the churchyard of St. Peter's is the family grave of the Shelley family, the heart of the poet being interred therein with the body of his son, who resided for long years at Bos- combe : in the same tomb lie the remains of the novelist, William Godwin (author of Caleb Williams) and his wife Mary Wollstonecroft, the pioneer of women's rights, whose daughter was wife to Shelley. At Bournemouth George Macdonald lived awhile and wrote two of his best novels, and here John Keble and Adeline Sergeant spent their declin- ing years. Christchurch and Burton have their memories of Coleridge and Sou they ; Mudeford of Sir Walter Scott, who visited it in 1807 and there wrote part of Marmion. At the present time, among residents of Bournemouth are several well-known novelists. Being essentially a modern town, Bournemouth has no " storied past '* ; and therefore affords scanty ground for historical novels. And yet we can point to a romance which in itself almost constitutes a chronicle of this district. Bos- combe Chine by Mrs. E. Marshall, which pictures Bourne- mouth and Christchurch in 1838 and 1887, the respective years of Queen Victoria's Coronation and Jubilee. Bourne- mouth is the " Sandbourne " of Thomas Hardy's Hand of Ethelberta, and Tess of the D'Urbervilles contains one of the LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 45 most picturesque and accurate descriptions of modern Bournemouth. It is perhaps most fully depicted in Adrian Savage by Lucas Malet, and is visited and described in All- ward by E. S. Stevens, Sinister Street (Vol. I.) by Compton Mackenzie, The Seamy Side by Besant and Rice, Jill-all- Alone by Rita, and in Tracked Down by Headon Hill. It is further seen in W. B. Maxwell's war-time romance A Man and his Lesson, while The Lady of the Chine by Mrs. M. S. Haycraft displays local colour. Christchurch and Twynham Castle, in the time of Edward III, enter into Sir A. Conan Doyle's fine romance. The White Company. This district is associated with two novelist brothers connected with the Kingsley family, the Rev. J. F. ValUngs, Vicar of Sopley (and father of Miss Gabrielle Vallings, herself a recent recruit to the ranks of novel-writers), andlNlr. Harold ValHngs. Christchurch and the New Forest are the scenes of The Severed Sword, a romance of the Civil War period by the former ; the latter has to his credit The Smug- glers of Haven Quay, a story of Christchurch, Mudeford and the Avon, and A Parson at Bay, which deals with Christ- church and Hengistbury. The Preventive Man, a recent novel by Miss G. V. McFadden, also deals with the district around Christchurch. Deadham Hard, by Lucas Malet, treats of the same locality, Hengistbury being the " Stone Horse Head " of the story. W. D. Newton's Green Ladies is a war-time story of the Hampshire coast and Southampton. Poole is met with in Deh Clavel by Mary E. Palgrave, a tale of the Bloody Assize of Judge Jeffreys, and in two of Hardy's short stories. To Please His Wife {Life's Little Ironies) and Master John Horseleigh {A Changed Man), and as the principal locahty in Rita's novels. The Rubbish Heap and The Make- Believers. Wimborne, the birthplace of Matthew Prior the poet, is found in Hardy's Two on a Tower. A farm near Wimborne is the locaHty of Hardy on the Hill by M. E. Francis. The Uterary associations of the New Forest are many and we cannot hope to mention all. Marryat's delightful idyll, Thd Children of the New Forest (Am wood) is a story of the Civil War in 1647-52 ; The Lover Fugitives by J. Finne- more is of the years following the Monmouth rebellion ; The Moonrakers (Hinton Admiral) by E. E. Cowper, is a smuggHng tale of 1747 ; and Cradock Nowell by Blackmore is mid- Victorian. The opening chapters of Mrs. Gaskell's North and South also have the New Forest for their background ; and Beaulieu Abbey, on the border of the Forest, is in evidence during the earlier pages of Sir A. Conan Doyle's White Company. Southey married his second wife, Caroline Bowles, at Boldre Church, two miles 46 LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS from Brockenhurst. In Boldre parish ministered for thirty years, the Rev. W. Gilpin, the author of Bernard Gilpin and Forest Scenery. Another local celebrity is W. Stewart Rose, whose lyrical versions of the Forest legends won the warm commendation of Sir Walter Scott. It was during a visit to Stewart Rose, at Mudeford, two miles south-east of Christchurch, that Scott wrote a part and revised a great deal of Marmion, and to his Hampshire friend he dedicated the first canto. Many a literary pilgrim pays a visit to the house called Gundimore, where " The Wizard of the North " spent several happy weeks. Miss M. E. Braddon had a Forest home, and covers much of the district in Vixen ; a modern work of great charm is Richard Baldock by Archibald Marshall. Of recent date are The Angel of Pain (Brockenhurst), by E. F. Benson ; The Waters of Jordan, by H. A. Vachell ; Delia Blanchflower, by Mrs. Humphry Ward; Allward (gipsy life), by E. S. Stevens; The Stumbling' Block, by Edwin Pugh ; The Gate of Dreams (Burley), by Peggy Grant. At Winchester we are in a city of varied associations, \vith its memories of Bishop Ken, Izaak Walton, John Keats, John Keble, Jane Austen, and Charlotte Yonge. At Win- chesfer, too, for many years resided the late Bernard Capes. Thackeray mentions the city in Pendennis ; Trollope is said to have had it (and St. Cross) in mind in The Warden ; it is found in Hardy's Tess of the D'Urhervilles and his short story Lady Mottisfant (A Group of Noble Dames). It is found in The Reputed Changeling by Charlotte Yonge, in The Chevalier of the Splendid Crest by Sir Herbert Maxwell, and in The Mill of Silence and Love Like a Gipsy, both by Bernard Capes. With St. Cross it is seen in Winchester Meads by Mrs. E. Marshall, a story of Bishop Ken and Izaak Walton ; in Brother Copas by " Q,'* Henry Dunbar by M. E. Braddon, and The Valley of Delight by Florence Bone. Winchester College and its present-day school life are described in Her Son by H. A. Vachell, and in A Mother's Son by C. B. Fry. Salisbury is associated in the minds of Dickens' readers \^'ith Tom Pinch (in the opening chapters of Martin Chuzzle- wit). It is mentioned in three of Hardy's novels, Jude the Obscure, Tess of the D'Urbervilles, The Hand of Ethelberta, in Wanderer and King (Charles II) by O. V. Caine, and in Conan Doyle's Micah Clarke ; it is the scene of Sampson Rideotit, Quaker, by Una L. Silberadd, and Gooc? Old Anna, a tale of the recent war by Mrs. Belloc Lowndes. The tourist's view of our district is seen in Jitney and the Boys by Bernard Copplestone, a motor trip from London to Winchester, Beaulieu and the Isle of Wight ; and as to Christ- church, the New Forest, Winchester and Salisbury in Set in |i LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS 47 Silver by C. N. and A. M. Williamson. An American woman's impressions of Winchester are recorded in An English Honey- moon by A. H. Wharton, and of Winchester and Salisbury in A Cathedral Courtship by K. D. Wiggin. A full account of the evolution of Bournemouth is given in Boiirnemoiith, i8io-igio, by Mate and Riddle. Excellent topographical books are Bournemouth and its Surroundings by Dr. Horace Dobell, and From Harbour to Harbour (Christ- church to Poole) by Mrs. Bell. Nearly the whole of our district is covered in Highways and Byways in Hampshire by D. H. M. Read. There are various works on The New Forest by Cornish, Hutchinson, Rawnsley, and Wise, and the Rev. A. G. L'Estrange's Royal Winchester and Dean Kitcliin's Winchester are well known. Recent works are Winchester Cathedral by Canon Vaughan and Winchester College by A. K. Cook. The Flora of Bournemouth by the Rev. E. E. Linton is an authority on its subject, and The Natural History of Bournemouth (National Science Society) is full of varied information. It is perhaps scarcely necessary to remind the reader that Gilbert White*s Natural History of Selborne relates to Hampshire. Lovers of Tess will be glad to be reminded of the descrip- tion of " Sandbourne " : — Thomas Hardy ^s '* Sarxdbourne.*' *' This fashionable watering-place, with its eastern and western stations, its piers, its groves of pines, its promenades, and its covered gardens, was to Angel Clare like a fairy place suddenly created by a stroke of a wand. Within the space of a mile from its outskirts every irregularity of the soil was pre-historic, every channel an undisturbed British track- way ; not a sod had been turned since the days of the Caesars. By the midnight lamps he went up and down the winding ways of this new world in an old one, and could discern between the trees and against the stars the lofty roofs, chimneys, gazebos, and towers of the numerous fanciful residences of which the place v.-as composed. It was a city of detached mansions ; a Mediterranean lounging-place on the English Channel ; and as seen now by night it seemed even more imposing than it was. " The sea was near at hand, but not intrusive ; it mur- mured, and he thought it was the pines ; the pines murmured in precisely the same tones, and he thought they were the sea.** 48 A GEOLOGICAL NOTE A Geological Note. We are indebted for the following to Mr. C. Carus-Wilson, F.R.S.E., F.G.S. :— The geology of the Bournemouth district is extremely in- teresting, and has been well described by Lyell, Prestwick, Gardner, Judd, Reid and others, but it is not possible here to give more than a brief outline. The sands and clays forming the cliffs in Bournemouth Bay are of Tertiary age, and belong to Middle Eocene formations, consisting of the Bagshot Beds, which cover an extensive area in the south-west of Hants. These Bournemouth beds of the Bagshot series have been subdivided into two groups, the Lower or Freshwater, which may be observed in section along the cliffs from Poole Head to Steps Chine, and the Upper or Marine, which may be traced from Steps Chine to beyond Christchurch Head. They are often difficult to determine, however, because of the covering of debris and talus resulting from the rapid waste and decay of the unstable cliffs, and the methods of late years adopted by the Corporation in an effort to preserve them. The sands and clays show evidence of having been trans- ported and deposited by a large river flowing from the west or south-west, and these materials were, no doubt, derived from the waste and decay of granite mountains in a continent of which Cornwall, the Scilly Isles and part of Brittany now represent the remains. Starkie Gardner pointed out three separate groups forming the Bournemouth Freshwater beds, and considered that each might be separated from the others by the characteristic fossil leaves it contained. These leaves and plant remains are well preserved in some of the clays associated with the sands, and occasionally in the harder layers of sand-rock v/hich occur, though under such conditions specimens are less perfect in consequence of the removal of their substance by percolating water. The palms, ferns and leaves, etc., found in these beds, prove that the climate of those tim^es was of a sub-tropical character. The Upper or Marine Beds are composed of pebbles, sands and clays, and these contain occasional shells of marine types, together with such fossil flora as Nipadites (like the Nipa of Bengal), Palmacites, and coniferous remains, akin to those found in beds of a similar character at Bovey Tracey, in Devonshire. Q ^ ^ kj A GEOLOGICAL NOTE 49 Lignite also occurs in great abundance in the cliffs ; it represents the changed wood of ancient tree-trunks, and the fact that much of this wood was bored by the teredo before it found its final resting-place proves that it must have been carried within the zone of marine influences. Most of the sand is composed of grains of quartz, one of the constituents of granite. In course of time these grains became coated with a form of iron oxide, which was probably derived from the soil above and carried down by percolating water. It is this iron coating of the grains that gives the cliffs their charac- teristic yellow colour. More or less pure pipe-clay occurs in considerable quantities, but chiefly to the west of the Pier, and it is in these purer clays that the best specimens of fossil leaves are found. All along the base of the clifls a thick bed of dark clay is seen, and is known as the Basement Clay. It is very impure, being more of an indurated mud than true clay, and contains a large amount of iron-pyrites (sulphate of iron), and much organic matter in a highly decomposed and altered condition. Its dark colour is probably due to the action of tannic acid from the plant remains upon the iron which is present. In some parts of the district deposits of black sand occur for a similar reason. The cliffs are capped almost everywhere with a thick bed of flint gravel, known as the Plateau Gravel. It is of a much more recent geological age than the beds of sand and clay beneath. The flint implements of prehistoric man have been found in this gravel, and also pebbles of other rocks, which must have travelled a considerable distance from the west to their present resting-places. On the top of this Plateau Gravel, especially on the cliffs at Boscombe, sand-dunes occur ; some of these attain a height of as much as 40 feet. It is interesting to note that this sand has accumulated there through being blown inland from off the cliff-face, and not from the shore. Much marram grass thrives upon it, and helps to bind it together. In this sand recent land shells and the bones of birds and rabbits may be found in a good state of preservation. Bournemouth (d) ROUND AND ABOUT BOURNEMOUTH. From the Railway Stations to the Sea — The Sea-Front — The CHff Drives and Promenades — The Pier — The Chines — The Square — Lansdowne. THE sea-front may be reached from the Central Station by taking a tram to the Square and then strolling southward through the delightful Pleasure Gardens to the Pier. Those who walk may take a somewhat shorter route by following Holdenhurst Road to Lansdowne and then going past the Municipal College and Public Library along the pine avenue of Meyrick Road to the East Cliff Lift, or the Zizgag path to the UnderclifE Drive, or by keeping straight on by way of Bath Road to the Pier. From the West Station, in Queen's Road, a tram can also be taken to the Square and the Pleasure Gardens ; but by far the most picturesque route to the sea is to follow Clarendon Road (a southw^ard continuation of Queen's Road) to the head of Middle Chine, and down the Chine to the sea ; or eastward along the West Cliff Drive. The sea view from this position is delightful. To the south-west is Swanage Bay, with the Purbeck heights behind, while to the east sweeps the curve of Christchurch Bay, with its long stretch of yellow sands edged by the thin silver line of surf cast like an offering upon the shore by the wealth of blue in the far- sweeping bay. The Sea-Front. The cliffs which line the bay have an average height of about I GO feet. They are irregular in form, and are mainly composed of yellow, white and brownish sands. There are no houses under them, and the buildings nearest their margin are fine private residences or hotels. There is still something refreshingly unconventional in these lines of " country-like " cliffs, with their occasional clumps of pines. The gradual wearing away of the coast of Bournemouth presents serious problems to the authorities, who have always 50 EAST UNDERCLIFF DRIVE 61 been anxious to maintain, as far as possible, the natural features of the sea-front. For many years a desire was expressed for a sheltered Undercliff Promenade, it being argued that such a feature would be both a convenience and an attraction, and would serve as a buttress to preserve the clifis from decay. In 1907 a substantial start was made by the construction of a considerable section of the — East Undercliff Drive and Promenade, which now extends from Bournemouth Pier to Boscombe Pier {i^ miles), the last section having been completed in 191 4. At the opening of this important thoroughfare it was stated that during a period of eleven years the Municipal Council had invested no less than ;£98,ooo on the sea-front, the whole of which, from Poole, or rather the Dorset boundary, to the eastern side of Southboume, a distance of some six miles, is controlled by the Corporation. An asphalted carriage and motor road, 30 feet wide, is bordered on the seaward side by a promenade 20 feet wide. These are about 7 feet above ordinary high-water mark, but in strong south-westerly and southerly gales the sea fre- quently breaks over them, forming a grand and imposing spectacle. Being screened by the lofty cliff from cold, northerly winds, while fully exposed to the south, the low- level esplanade forms an ideal exercise ground for invalids and others, even in winter. Near each end is an ornamental colonnade. Deck chairs and other seats are plentifully pro- vided, and refreshment rooms and lavatories adjoin. A zigzag path, steps at intervals, and in particular an electric Lilt opposite Meyrick Road, provide easy communication with the cliff above. Bordering the drive are a number of miniature Bungalows^ about 8 ft. square, which can be rented from the Corporation for day use only, at a moderate charge. For families they form a delightful " home from home," providing shelter and shade, being convenient places for picnics and after- noon tea parties, and affording storage for bicycles, books, spades, pails, and all the impedimenta of seaside life. Since they were first erected provision has been made for the supply of electricity for lighting and heating. On platforms projecting from the sloping wall of stone opposed to the sea are square canvas bathing tents. 52 THE CLIFF DRIVES I That portion of the cliff which backs the oldest section of the drive has been laid out in pretty terraced gardens, with hardy flowers and shrubs making at all times an attractive display. In 1920 there were laid out here " plateau walks, " half-way up the cliffs, and bordered by wooden bungalows commanding splendid views of the Bay. West of Bournemouth Pier is a short promenade similar to that just described. It extends from the Pier to the foot of the cliffs just opposite the coast-guard station, where there is a Lift, while at intervals are steps between the top and the bottom of the cliff. Bungalows, bathing -cabins, shelters, refreshment-rooms and lavatories make it easy for visitors to spend the entire day by the sea, without even the necessity of going into the town for meals. Competing in popularity with the Esplanades at the foot of the cliffs are the Overcliff Drives. Of these — The East Cliff Drive, opened in 1904, runs along the cliff top from near the foot of Meyrick Road almost to Boscombe Pier. This lofty drive has a width of 30 feet, with a 20-feet promenade along the seaward side. It commands a good view of the sea and in clear weather of the Isle of Wight. By making a slight detour, the visitor can pass into the public drive which connects Boscombe with the Overcliff Drive at Southbourne. Equally attractive is — The West Cliff Drive, on the other side of Bournemouth Pier. This, however, is not, like its sister, a straight thoroughfare, but winds inland with the deviation of the Chines, and is planted with rhodo- dendrons and other shrubs. It affords pretty glimpses of Durley, Middle and Alum Chines and, of course, of the sea. The Drive, with the iron bridge spanning the Middle Chine, cost about ;^i 0,000 to construct. The Pier. Admission, 2d. Season tickets to Bournemouth and Boscombe Piers, 15s. per annum ; for a second member of the same family, 12s. 6d. ; for a third, ys. 6d, Seats in the shelter are free ; for those in the enclosure a charge of 4^. each is made during band or concert performances. Bournemouth Pier, one of the finest structures along the Bournemouth. 13 THE PIER— THE CHINES 53 South Coast, was built in 1880, extended in 1894, and again in 1909, when the landing-stages were rendered more con- venient for the steamer traffic. In summer the Municipal Band plays here daily, Sundays included (see also p. 33). In winter also (weather permitting) there are performances every morning. In addition, concert parties give performances several times daily during the summer season. Near the sea end of the Pier is a spacious promenade and lounge with a raised platform in the middle for the bandstand. Around the bandstand are two parallel promenades separated by a double set of comfortable and sheltered seats — the inner set facing the bandstand and pro- tected from the wind ; the outer set facing the sea and yet within full hearing of the music from the band. In the area enclosed by the inner promenade are seats across the Pier, and over them an awning is drawn when required for the comfort of the audience. The Chines are a notable feature of Bournemouth's sea-front and lend to it a distinctiveness and beauty that are sadly lacking at the majority of rival resorts. A chine is, of course, simply a chink, or fissure, the word being derived from the Anglo-Saxon cine. "Whilst," says the Medical Officer of Health, "the chines add greatly to the natural beauty of the town, they have also a very material influence in increasing its hygienic circumstance, for they serve as watersheds, carrying off the surface water from the rising ground and moisture that perco- lates readily through the sandy soil, so that the subsoil is kept always in a state of sanitary dryness. And the chines serve also as channels through which the fresh sea air is carried into the heart of the town ; in my opinion this is one of the main reasons for the fact that whilst the wdnter climate is mild, the summer temperature throughout the town is also temperate, a fact which is becoming more fully realized by visitors, and v/hich is clearly shown by the comparative meteorological records.'* Westward of the Pier, close to the Lift, is a small inlet known as the Water Chine. Beyond is Little Durley Chine, where there is another way up by means of Joseph's Steps. Still following the shore westward we come to the first of the larger inlets, the shady Durley Chine, a pleasant nook \^dth pine-clad banks, and seats among the heather, where the sun 54 THE CHINES— THE SQUARE does not intrude. A central drive slopes gradually upv/ard through the chine to Durley Chine Road and the West Cliff Drive. Middle Chine, a place in high favour among residents on the West Cliff, has for long been left in a state of nature, with its gorse and heath unimproved upon. It is spanned by the bridge bearing the West Cliff Drive. Westward again is Alum Chine, a valley nearly three- quarters of a mile in length, with heath-clad sides, bright yellow sand cliffs, a thicket, and at the lower end a delightful vista of the sea. On the western summit are Public Gardens, with a bowling green and tennis courts. This lovely chine penetrates inland to St. Ambrose's Church. Access from the upper, or Westbourne, end is facilitated by a picturesque rustic bridge, and half-way to the sea the valley is spanned by an elegant Suspension Bridge which forms, for pedestrians, a connecting link between the Overcliff Drive on one side and Branksome Park on the other. At the seaward end are a promenade, bungalows, tents, a colonnade or stone shelter, municipal refreshment rooms, lavatories, etc. This part of the beach is quieter than that nearer Bournemouth Pier. Farther westward is lovely Branksome Chine {see p. 80) perhaps the most beautiful of all, but somewhat beyond the limits of our present walk. More than a mile eastward of Bournemouth Pier is Bos- combe Chine, described on p. 65. The Square is the great traffic centre of the town, and the visitor who knows the roads and the directions in v/hich they lead, as they radiate like spokes from the hub of a wheel, will have a good working knowledge of the topography of Bournemouth. If the reader will imagine himself as standing with his back towards the sea at the entrance to the Lower Pleasure Gar- dens, he will have on his left Exeter Road, from which immedi- ately branches on the left the pretty Exeter Lane, skirting the west side of the Pleasure Gardens. In Exeter Road is St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church, a prominent object from the Square, and nearer the sea is the entrance to the Winter Gardens. At the sea end of Exeter Road are the Pier Ap- proach and the southern entrance to the Pleasure Gardens. The next turning to the Exeter Road as we stand in the Square is Commercial Road, a busy thoroughfare from which THE CEMETERY— CHRISTCHURCH ROAD 55 the electric trams nin north-westward by the long"" and straight PooIe Road to County Gates and on to Poole. Bordering the Upper Pleasure Gardens on the eastern side is Bourne Avenue, leading past the well-known Richmond Hill Congregational Church to the Royal National Sanatorium, and by way of Durrant Road to Meyrick Park and the Golf Links. Bourne Avenue is continued in a north-westerly direction by Branksome Wood Road, leading past the entrance to the beautiful Talbot Woods. Almost due north from the Square is Richmond Hill, con- tinued by the Wimborne Road, which leads to St. Augustin's Church and the Cemetery, where rest the late Dean McNeil, of Ripon ; the first, second and third Earls Cairns ; " Rob Roy " Macgregor, " the patron saint of canoeists," and author of A Thousand Miles in the Roh Roy Caitoe ; Canon Twells, the writer of " At even, ere the sun was set,'* and other popular hymns ; and Miss Adeline Sergeant, the novelist. Near the corner of Richmond Hill is the Punshon Memorial Wesleyan Chapel, a handsome building of Purbeck stone, with a spire 130 feet high. Close to it is the Church of the Sacred Heart, belonging to the Society of Jesus, with a beautifully adorned interior. But of all the roads branching from the Square, perhaps the most interesting is the devious Old Christchurch Road, the wide shop-lined thoroughfare to the east as we leave the entrance to the Lower Pleasure Gardens, and along which the trams run to Lansdov^-ne and then by way of the straight Christchurch Road to Boscombe. To the right of this road, close to the Square, is Gervis Place, leading into Westover Road, which skirts the eastern side of the Lower Pleasure Gardens and communicates with the Bath Road. A notable feature of the Old Christchurch Road is the Gervis Arcade, a glass-covered passage 200 feet long and 30 feet broad, pro- vided with comfortable seats, and lined on both sides with excellent shops. It is in all seasons a pleasant resort, and in the winter time especially is much frequented as a promenade. On the northern side of the road is a similar arcade, known as Post Office Arcade. Branching from the north side of Old Christchurch Road are Post Office Road, in which arc the General Post Office and the Telephone Exchange ; Albert Road, containing the Theatre Royal, and Yelverton Road, in which are the Muni- cipal Offices, Yelverton Road is continued as St, Peter's 56 LANSDOWNE Road, in which is a building, formerly the Hotel Mont 1 Dore, acquired by the Corporation in 1920, at a cost of - ;^33,ooo, for the purpose of providing additional offices for the municipal staff. On the seaward side of Old Christchurch Road, at the junction of Gervis Place and Hinton Roads, is St. Peter's Church, the beautiful Parish Church of Bourne- mouth {see pp. 72-3). Northward of the Old Christchurch Road lie Dean Park, almost encircled by the Dean Park Road, the little circular Dean Park Cricket Ground and the Horse Shoe Common (p. 61). Passing Holy Trinity Church, we shortly reach — Lansdowne, which is the meeting-place of six roads and vies with the Square as a centre of traffic. Its dominating feature is the white-capped tower of the Municipal College and Central Public Library, a fine range of red brick and Portland stone buildings in the Renaissance style, erected in 191 2 at a cost of ^^45,000. Owing to its commanding position at the corner of Meyrick Road the lofty clock tower can be seen from many parts of the town and is an architectural adornment of real value. The Municipal College comprises a well-equipped School of Art, a School of Science and Technology, with modern labora- tories (chemical, electrical, physical and biological) and first- class machine shops ; a School of Commerce and a School of Domestic Subjects, the total number of students in attendance exceeding a thousand. Accommodation is provided for teaching all branches of Art, including drawing, painting, modelling, designing, architecture, etc., and also for art craftwork, including etching, hthography, wood-carving, jewellery and metal work, embroidery, cabinet-making, painting and decorating, etc. Well-attended classes are held in elementary and advanced science, mathematics and engineering and in commercial and domestic subjects. The large Central Hall is used for University Extension Lectures. A very successful Secondary School for Girls is being held in a portion of the college buildings pending the erection of a Girls' School on an adjoining site. An important feature of the Library is the Musical Refer- ence Library, presented to the town by Mr. J. B. M. Camm, the only one of its kind in the kingdom in connection with a public library. LANSDOWNE 57 East and west of Lansdowne runs the Christchureh Road, to the Square in one direction and to Boscombe and Pokes- down in the other ; while in a north-easterly direction the Holdenhurst Road leads to the Central Station and Queen's Park. North of Lansdowne stretches Lansdowne Road, joining the Wimborne and Charminster Roads at the Cemetery Gate. A short distance up LansdowTie Road, Madeira Road comes in from the west, and at the junction of this thoroughfare with Stafford Road stand the Law Courts and Police Station. To the south of Lansdowne, Meyrick Road, an avenue of pines, leads to the sea-front. Crossing Meyrick Road half- way down is the beautiful Gervis Road, also a pine avenue ; and parallel with this, and between it and the sea, is Grove Road. The west ends of Gervis Road West and Grove Road lead into Bath Road, by which the Pier is reached ; and the east ends of the roads give access to the pine-shaded paths of Manor Road, on the way to Boscombe Chine. The Bath Hotel has historical interest from the fact that in the Eeaconsfield Room the Earl of Beaconsfield held several Cabinet Councils ; while only a few yards from the entrance is Forest House, the temporary residence of Mr. W. E. Gladstone in 1898. The picturesque residence adjoining the Bath Hotel on the seav/ard side and adorned with statues is East Cliff Hali, for many years the residence of the late Sir Merton and Lady Russell-Cotes. In 1908 Sir Merton and Lady Russell- Cotes gave to the town the hall and the unique art treasures and curios which they had collected during their extensive travels, together with an endowment of ;^5,ooo. An Art Gallery, added to the Museum by Lady Russell-Cotes, was opened by Princess Beatrice in February, 191 9. THROUGH GROVES AND GARDENS. A Forest City — The Pleasure Gardens — Meyrick Park — ^The Talbot Woods — Queen's Park — The Winter Gardens. THE many open spaces of Bournemouth may rightly be regarded as the prevailing characteristic of the beauti- ful town, the secret of her fascination. Belted by sea, wood- land and common ; crossed from end to end by a park of rare beauty, along the winding length of which a clear brook ripples ; dotted here and there by wooded, flower-haunted nooks ; rejoicing in roads that are like forest-glades in the luxuriance of their bordering trees ; and with houses innum- erable standing in grounds which are patches of the ancient forest, Bournemouth is, indeed, a town of gardens, greensward and trees, a '' Forest City by the Southern Sea." In many parts, such as in the Pleasure Gardens, Art has ventured to improve upon Nature in the making of walks and the planting of flowers and shrubs ; but the green spaces that deck the town are nearly everywhere natural, so that there is no appearance of open spaces having r*-^- © provided as an afterthought by the street-makers, ihe aspect of a great part of Bournemouth is that of a stretch of woodland and common through which streets have been cut without interfering with the freedom of Nature ; and the whole planning of the town is a m.onument to the good taste and sense of its founders and rulers. The Pleasure Gardens extend for over a mile and a half along the valley of the Bourne, and have a total area of about thirty acres, with nearly four miles of footpaths. The Lower Gardens, leased by the Corporation, have their southern entrance close to the Pier, and stretch in a wide sweep of ornamental waters, flower-decked lawns and shady paths, to the Square. Seen from this pleasant vantage-ground, Bournemouth, with its fine roads and buildings, its stately spires and picturesque 58 THE PLEASURE GARDENS 59 squares, its clumps of foliage and tree-bordered thoroughfares, presents a picture of bright beauty upon which it is good for the eyes to linger. On certain occasions, such as during the Bournemouth Cricket Week, generally held towards the end of August, the Lower Gardens are tastef ulh^ gemmed with fairy lamps. There is something very alluring and refreshing in these Gardens after a spell of the blue sea. The paths are so many that, even in the height of the season, the place never seems crowded ; the walk by the rippling brook is always delight- fully cool ; there are shady avenues even when the sun is at its zenith ; and, above all. Art has not intruded upon Nature to her undoing, but has rather blended and become one with her in a broad sweep of IsLwri and trees and water. The brook, too, vies with the yacht ponds at Boscombe Chine and Queen's Park when it bears, on a tide the ponds cannot boast, the toy-boats of merry youngsters. As the visitor strolls through the Gardens he may note, probably with some surprise, fine growing palms and thickets of bamboo. In their season camellias and azaleas vie with rhododendron, magnolia, genista, and guelder rose. The flowering cherry, the pyrus and the Mexican orange alternate with the lovely ceanothus, or the flowering currant \\ath white and yellow broom. Berberis of choice variety contrasts with graceful silver birch, or shining copper beech, or many another, whose names alone would fill a page. A feature of the Lower Gardens is the beautiful pine- shaded avenue, stretching from near the Pier to the Arcade Gate, known as — The Pine Walk. Here com^plete protection is given from the heat of the sun in summer and from the force of the wind in springtime or winter. So sheltered is the walk from wind and sun that it can be used for rest or exercise when neither could elsewhere be taken in comfort or safety in the open air. The wood of which the w^alk is part is undulating and graced with a variety of charms ; and very pleasing is the appearance of the rhodo- dendron clumps and other shrubs that grow amid the shade of the pines. Of course, there are many other pine avenues in Bournemouth, but this walk is so conveniently reached either from the Pier or the Arcades, and is so delightfully situated, that it is by far the best known. 60 MEYRICK PARK The Upper Gardens — the continuation of the Gardens from the Square in a north-west direction — extend to the Coy Poni, within the sharp bend of the railway as it turns towards the West Station. These Gardens belong to the Branksome Estate, and are thro^vn open to the public by the courtesy of Miss Durrant, the owner of this part of the Bourne Valley. They extend for about three-quarters of a mile by the brook- side, and, being removed from the centre of Bournemouth's attractions, are far quieter and more secluded than the Lower Gardens. The owner has greatly benefited Bourne- mouth and increased its charm by preserving this lovely valley from the inroads of the builders ; and by confining building operations to the rising ground bordering the valley the letting value of the houses in the neighbourhood has been correspondingly increased. Pleasant and shady walks abound here, as in the Lower Gardens, and visitors inclined for tennis will find smooth lawns awaiting them. Here also is an ornamental fountain, in the wide basin of which aquatic plants of many kinds flourish in tempting coolness. Meyrick Park, another of the picturesque open spaces which beautify Bourne- mouth, can be reached from the Square by way of Bourne Avenue or St. Stephen's Road, or by many other routes, to which our plan will give the needful clues. A " halt " has been provided on the railway which skirts the northern side of the Park and penetrates the dim recesses of the Talbot Woods. Meyrick Park, which is rather more than half a mile from the Pier, consists of 1 56 acres of undulating heather and grass lands, about half of which is used as Golf Links [see p. 28). The Links are on the west side of the Central Driv^e, and on the eastern side is the Cricket and Football Ground. In addition, the Park contains an excellent Bowling Green and Tennis Courts. The rest of this delightful expanse has been wisely left in its original state of gorse and heather. Rows of pine trees border the Park in nearly every direction ; and beyond the Golf Links sweep the dark masses of the pines in Talbot Woods. It is interesting to note that the land was originally a wild space from which turf might be cut for fuel by certain resi- dents in the neighbourhood. Great difficulty was experi- enced by the local authorities when they began to make efforts to secure the ground for the good of the community. Levy, Sons & Co.,] [ [ii8 Holhorn, E.C, IN THE WINTER GARDENS. TALBOT WOODS 61 The late Sir George Meyrick came to the assistance of the Cor- poration by surrendering his vested rights in the property as Lord of the Manor ; and eventually the commoners — as the turf owners were called — yielded their claim on receiving compensation from the Corporation. The Park was opened to the public in 1894, a further 38 acres being secured for golf and other purposes quite recently. The Talbot Woods, a wide extent of pine forest, may be entered either by a turn- ing to the left beyond the Cemetery, in Wimborne Road, or from the Square by way of Bourne Avenue and Branksome Wood Road, turning to the right by a continuation of the winding Prince of Wales Road, which crosses the Upper Gardens. There is also an approach over the middle of the Golf Links. The railway between the Central and West Stations crosses the Woods, but it runs through a deep cutting and has taken little from the peace, seclusion and rusticity of the tract. The ground is carpeted with bracken and high up in the trees squirrels leap from branch to branch along this mile length of shady pines. Building operations- have begun, however, in the Winton district, and it is pro- bable that ere long the Woods will lose some of their charm. The Talbot Woods are the property of the Earl of Leven and Melville, who has generously thrown them open to the public. Bicycles are allowed on the road through the woods, but not motors. Smoking is strictly prohibited, and dogs should be efficiently controlled. A little way up the Old Christchurch Read, bright and gay with its handsome shops, is the Horse Shoe Common, a natural park covered with gorse, with here and there a clump of trees, and a pond beloved by boys. In the Caven- dish Road, a few yards north-east of the Horse Shoe Common, is Dean Park, a part of which has been converted into a well-kept and pretty Cricket Ground, where, during the Bournemouth Cricket Festival, first-class matches are played. Here, too, are tennis courts and croquet lawns. Queen's Park, the largest of Bournemouth's recreation grounds, is reached by tram along the Holdenhurst Road. The golf links and pavilion [see p. 29) are the chief feature of this delightful pleasance, but there is also a small lake for juvenile yachtsmen. 62 QUEEN'S PARK— WINTER GARDENS and the park is almost girdled by a splendid carriage drive, with trotting paths adjoining. Mention must also be made of King's Park, on the eastern side of Ashley Road, with cricket and football grounds, bowling green, pavilion, etc. A further 27 J acres on the northern side have been acquired for public use. Between the Talbot Woods and Queen's Park is the Winton Recre- ation Ground. Here there is a well-banked cinder track for cycling, in addition to a bowling green, tennis courts, and courts for quoits. The gardens and woods of Bournemouth are not to be described as '' within easy walking distance '* ; there is too indefinite a sense of distance in the phrase for it to have any application in this instance. These lovely open spaces are at the very doorsteps of Bournemouth ; the invalid's carriage may be wheeled in a few minutes to a pine avenue ; the weak or the aged may order breakfast, saunter along a woodland glade, and be back before the meal is served. The wood- lands are to Bournemouth as a garden is to a house, close to it and a part of it ; and in the realm of English holiday resorts there is scarcely to be found a place with rural and delightful sauntering-grounds so pleasant in themselves and so easily reached as are the gardens and woodlands of Bournemouth. A prominent position among the attractions of Bourne- mouth is occupied by the deservedly popular — Winter Gardens. Admission. — Annual tickets, £2 5s., tax, 5s. ; second ticket, £1 i6s. 6d., tax, 4s. 6d. ; third, £i iis. 6t/., tax, 45. Half-yearly ticket, £1 iis. td., tax, 4s. Single admission, is. ^d. The site is in Exeter Road, close to the Pier, and easily approached from the Square and the Lower Pleasure Gardens. Here is a garden within a town of gardens. Although in the heart of Bournemouth, one may sit on a lawn with no building in sight except the spire of a church. The grounds are beautifully .ornamented with flowers and shrubs, and when, on gala evenings, both the Gardens and their spacious glass Pavilion are bright with clusters of lights, the scene is like a glimpse of fairyland. The Pavilion includes a well-managed refreshment buffet and a large, comfortably furnished reading-room, but its main attraction consists of the cheery and tasteful round of THE WINTER GARDENS 63 musical and other entertainments. The place is under Corporation management, and the average needs of the average Bournemouth visitor are very sensibly estimated. The Municipal Orchestra, under its talented conductor, has indeed long been one of the greatest attractions of Bourne- mouth {see pp. 33 -4). Opened in 1877, the Winter Gardens Pavilion was under the not very successful management of a limited company until 1S93, when it was taken over by the Corporation and improved not only in its building and surroundings, but in a very marked degree wdth regard to the quality of its entertainments. Throughout the year special programmes are given each evening, with engagements of well-known vocalists and entertainers, and frequent visits by the stars of the profession. During the summer there are musical entertainments each afternoon, in the Music Garden whenever possible, and tea is served on the lawns. During the winter the full Municipal Orchestra plays each afternoon and evening, the special feature being the Monday and Thursday Popular and Sym- phony Concerts, which have obtained a great reputation not only in the United Kingdom but throughout Europe. For times and nature of entertainment the bills issued weekly should be consulted. BOSCOMBE. THIS eastern suburb of Bournemouth, with its distinctive name and its special attractions, might be excused if it claimed a rank of its own among English seaside resorts, and forgot that it is nothing more than one of the eleven municipal wards of Bournemouth, possessing no independent corporate existence. Indeed, instances are numerous when intending visitors are advised to try Boscombe if the air of Bournemouth prove, as the case may be, too bracing or too relaxing, too dry or too damp, too this or too that. There is much of interest in the story of the growth of this eastern suburb. It is the tale over again of the Ugly Duckling, for in her young days Boscombe was without loveliness or promise, while in her maturity she suffers nothing by comparison with the charm of her famous relative. Little more than a quarter of a century ago Boscombe consisted of a few dilapidated cottages, whose dwellers found employ- ment in a neighbouring brickfield and refreshment in an inn — rural but uninviting. As if by the touch of a magic hand, stately hotels have taken the place of the public house ; pleasant villas, surrounded by gardens and tree-shaded, may be seen where mud cottages once stood ; and where the men of not very ancient Boscombe laboured in the brickfields, people now saunter along the Chine Gardens, which take high place among the lovely corners of this delightful coast. Boscombe has its own Pier, its own Pleasure Gardens, and possesses almost every feature which goes to the making of an independent watering-place ; yet it is but a part of the great Bournemouth family, all of whose members are proud of their distinguished little relative. Some humorous and true remarks were made on this . subject at the re-opening of Boscombe Pier in 1904 by the then Mayor : — " There was no happier way of praising a husband than by praising his wife, and the best compliment he could 64 Bournemouth. i8 BOSCOMBE 65 give Bournemouth was to praise Boscombe. They were one. If they wanted perfect beauty, of course they must go to Boscombe, but if they wanted beauty allied to some- thing still more beautiful, let them go to Bournemouth." The main thoroughfare between Bournemouth and Bos- combe is the Ghristchurch Road, extending eastward from the Square. On the southern or seaward side of the road for- merly stood a great pine wood. Pretty residences have taken the place of most of the trees ; but a vast number remain,, for only those on the actual sites of the houses were removed. Thus is given to this beautiful Ghristchurch Road — notwith- standing its electric tramways — a woodland appearance very refreshing and alluring. Another connecting thoroughfare between Bournemouth and Boscombe is the East Cliff Drive, which runs along the top of the cliff from near the Royal Bath Hotel almost to Boscombe Chine. Yet another approach is by the East Undercliff Drive, stretching from Bournemouth Pier to — Boscombe Pier. Toll, 2d. Season Tickets to Boscombe and Bournemouth piers, 15s. per annum; for a second member of the same family, 12s. 6d ; for a third; ys. 6d. Boscombe Pier dates from 1889, when, having been built by private enterprise, it was opened by the then Buke of Argyll. In 1904 the Pier passed under the control of the Corporation. During the summer musical entertainments are given daily. Full particulars are 'wddely advertised. Westward of the Pier the aspect of Boscombe has been a good deal changed by the new marine parade which forms the eastern termination of Bournemouth's East Undercliff Drive. Boscombe Chine Gardens, extending from Christchurch Road to the mouth of the Chine,^ are tastefully laid out as a pleasure ground, in which the Municipal IVIihtary Band plays on Saturday afternoons from 3.15 to 4.30. Near the seaward end is an ornamental Yacht Pond, much loved by juvenile navigators. The Gardens also include tennis courts, some of which can be used by visitors at a small fee. Near the sea is a rustic summer-house, the seats of which surround a fountain of natural mineral water,, in quality similar to the Harrogate waters. Shady and well-kept paths, affording views inland and by sea of varied charm and interest, make these Chine Gardens- Bournemouth (e) 66 BOSCOMBE a delight that never palls even upon the most constant of visitors. The main entrance is in Christchurch Road. About half a mile eastward of the Pier are the delightful Cliff Gardens, with a well-kept bowling green. The seats and shelters command a very charming sea and coast view, including the Isle of Wight. An Overcliff Drive connects Boscombe at this point with the Fisherman's Walk, on the boundary between Boscombe and Southbourne. The Walk leads from the main thoroughfare and tram route at Southbourne to the cliffs, a distance of about 500 yards. Down the centre is a pleasant, pine-shaded path. The tract occupies some 5 acres and is one of the public pleasure grounds. It was acquired at a cost of about £6, 500. The walk was pre- viously enjoyed through private generosity, but building developments threatened to deprive the public of the privilege. Boscombe Manor was for many years the home of the Shelley family, descendants of the poet. The estate is now being rapidly developed for building purposes. On succeeding to the property in 1898 one of the first steps of the owners was to make a present of several acres on the cliff front to the Bournemouth Corporation. Nearly a quarter of a mile eastward of the Chine main entrance, and near the Carnarvon Crescent Gardens, stand the Congregational Church and St. John's Church. Farther eastward, near the top of Sea Road, the pretty and devious thoroughfare which winds upward from Boscombe Pier to the Christchurch Road, is the Boscombe Arcade, a fine structure 336 feet in length, with a series of shops and an octagonal dome. The arcade is heated in winter. Daily throughout the year an organ recital is given at 11.30 and a band plays at 3.15. At the Hippodrome, close to the Arcade, bright and popular variety entertainments are given twice nightly. On the south side of Christchurch Road, a short distance beyond the Arcade, is the Boscombe branch of the Public Library. It is open daily, Sundays excepted. The building is one of four in Bournemouth provided by the late Andrew Carnegie at a cost of ;£i 0,000. St. Clement's Church, noted for its advanced ritual, is on the left of Palmerston Road. Near Boscombe Station is the Royal Victoria and West Hants Hospital, opened in 1900 to take the place of the old Cottage Hospital. As a " Peace memorial '* a fine hostel for the Hospital nurses was begun in 1920, at an estimated cost of ;^i4,ooo. BOSCOjMBE 67 Derby Road runs through the Knyveton Gardens and crosses Christchurch Road into Manor Road. The latter thoroughfare, one of the most picturesque of the many pine- avenues in the district, is over half a mile in length. A series of roads of a similar character, such as the Gervis, Grove and East Cliff Roads, lie between the Christchurch Road and the sea, and extend from the neighbourhood of the Bath Hotel in Bournemouth to the western extremity of Boscombe. They are all extremely beautiful, both in their shady paths and in the semi-rural appearance of the pine-girdled houses. The avenues are characteristic of the beauty of Bournemouth, a sort of half-way house to the encircling forest beyond. The visitor from Boscombe to these pine avenues by way of Christchurch Road should return eastward along either of the parallel thoroughfares of Gervis Road or Grove Road, each of which leads into Manor Road. Nearly at the eastward end of this road, on the right, close to its junction with Christchurch Road, is the narrow entrance to a path crossing Boscombe Chine by a rustic bridge. The bridge leads into Owls Road, a name chosen as reminiscent of a satirical journal known as The Owl, with which was closely connected Sir Henry Drummond Wolff, a landowner and benefactor of Boscombe, and at one time M.P. for Christ- church. SOUTHBOURNE-ON-SEA, POKESDOWN AND WESTBOURNE. THE interesting little resort of Southbourne, with its sometime sub-title *' On Sea," seems in appearance and name a resort apart from and independent of Bourne- mouth. But the cold records of local government show that while Southbourne is four miles from the centre of Bourne- mouth, and had once a separate existence, it is now included in the County Borough, and, with Pokesdown, forms one of its eleven wards. Southbourne is pleasantly situated near to the eastern extremity of Bournemouth Bay, and is within a mile and a half of Christchurch, which lies in the valley beneath. The buses and trams from Boscombe pass through South- bourne, close to the sea, en route to Christchurch, and it can also be approached by rail by way of Pokesdown Station, the nearest station for Southbourne proper, from which it is distant about i J miles, or by way of Christchurch Station, at which visitors to Southbourne-on-Sea generally alight. The Situation of Southbourne. The elevation of this youthful and agreeable seaside re- sort has done much to win favour for it. It has been aptly described as '* A miniature tableland, standing raised above the very margin of the genial Channel Sea, with an absolutely unimpeded exposure to breezes and sunshine." The view embraces both Bournemouth and Christchurch Bays, and extends from Durleston Head, on the coast of Dorset, to Hurst Castle at the entrance to the Solent. Its climate is equable and healthy, and from its high position Southbourne can boast of really bracing air. The soil, consisting of gravel and sand to a good depth, contributes to the bracing qualities of the air. Even after prolonged rain the ground quickly dries, as local pedestrians gratefully testify. A striking tribute to the healthiness of 68 G. H. Stanford,] [Boscombe. FISHERMAN S WALK. 19 A F. Frith & Co., Ltd.,] [Reigate. (l) WESTBOURNE (2 & 3) SOUTHBOURNE. 20 SOUTHBOURNE 69 the place is afforded by its extraordinarily low death-rate. Dr. Dobell, in his work on The Medical A spects of Bourne- mouth and its Surroundings, has devoted a chapter to describ- ing and explaining the bracing conditions of the Southbourne air, and official figures give eloquent testimony to its high repute for sunniness. The rapid progress of Southbourne will be understood when it is known that not so many years ago it was an untouched sweep of gorse-land, without even the dignity of a name, and possessing neither houses nor roads. Now it has many a row of pleasant dwelling-houses, several hotels and boarding establishments, and the consequent accompani- ment of church and shops. St. Katharine's Church, a stone building dedicated in 1882, has grown with the population, and in 1900 the enlarged building was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester. The Surroundings of Southbourne. "Southbourne," says a writer, "is the chosen dwelling- place of the most golden gorse one could wish to see. Acres of glowing gold, stretching inland from the borders of the blue Channel, make the dullest day bright. The cliffs are the safest that can be imagined ; children can play on them without fear, and there the worn-out city man may lounge by the delicious meadows stretching across to Christchurch.*' The walks and drives form an especially pleasant feature among the attractions of Southbourne. The immediately surrounding countryside is picturesque, and the views from the cliffs seaward and the higher ground inland are extensive and beautiful. Also there are few resorts so favourably situated for those whose tastes incline to varying the delights of the seaside by the change of river boating or angling. Within a few minutes' walk are the Stour and the spacious expanse of Christchurch Harbour. Boats can be hired at Wick Ferry and elsewhere at low rates. The river scenery is very pretty in its combination of meadow and woodland, and an excursion to the delightful spot known as the Sheep- wash can be strongly recommended. The row from either Wick Ferry or Tuckton Bridge to the Sheepwash is an attrac- tion not to Southbourne visitors only, but to holiday-makers from relatively distant Bournemouth who count the Stour among the charms that have endeared to them the town and neighbourhood. 70 SOUTHBOUKNE— POKESDOWN A charming walk may be taken along the edge of the cliffs to the Double Dykesand Hengistbury Head (p. 82). From the Head fine panoramic views may be obtained of Christ- church Harbour and the old Priory, the mouth of the Stour and the line of cliffs past Highcliffe. To the east may be seen the Needles and Alum Bay (Isle of Wight). The Sand Hills, stretching in a long succession between the shore and the bordering heath-lands, must be included among Southboume's attractive features ; for on these safe and soft hillocks the children delight to play ; and here the elders may rest in sandy hollows with the comfort of which no arm-chair can vie. On the hottest days shady nooks may be found among the sand-hills ; for if the sunshine invades one side, it may be avoided by the simple expedient of changing position. Walks to Christchurch and along the Stour Valley, across the gorse commons and by the cliffs, are distinct additions to the pleasures of seaside life ; and they have had a large share in winning favour for the pleasant little resort of South- bourne-on-Sea, the amenities of which have of late been increased by the construction of a cliff drive across the sand- hills. POKESDOWN has many charms, but the casual visitor would hardly con- sider it sufficiently fairy-like to justify the undoubted deriva- tion of its name from Puck's Down. Once merely a village on the road to Christchurch, it is now a populous portion of the borough of Bournemouth, included in the Southbourne Ward. It adjoins Boscombe East, has Southbourne between it and the sea, and is connected with the centre of the borough both by rail and a frequent electric tram service. Among the places of worship, the pretty St. James's Church, built from the plans of G. E. Street, R.A., and opened in 1858, will compel attention by the beauty of its in- terior. The shafts of Purbeck marble, the alabaster reredos, the stained windows, and the tasteful designs in the tile pave- ment, combine to make an interior of exquisite harmony. The neighbourhood has been rapidly developed in the districts of the Stourfield and Stourwood Estates, both of them on high ground, with fine views in several directions. On the latter estate the Home Sanatorium occupies a promi- WESTBOUKNE 71 nent position. During the clearance of some undeveloped land north of the railway, in 1909, were discovered two ancient barrows belonging to the period before the bronze or iron age. WESTBOURNE is a growing district at the extreme western end of Bourne- mouth. It is very different from Pokesdown. Of recent years it has become a favourite residential neighbourhood. The finest houses have been erected along the wide and well- kept roads between Poole Road and the sea. Some of these thoroughfares lead to the West Overcliff Drive ; others to the eastern boundary of Branksome Park (p. 80). West- bourne has an arcade and some excellent shops, and though it is rather a residential than a holiday-makers* district, some good furnished apartments are to be obtained. The most picturesque part of this portion of the borough is undoubtedly Alum Chine, described on p. 54. The beach at the shore end of the chine is much frequented in summer, as there is good bathing accommodation, and private tents may be erected on payment of a small rent. Facing the small Promenade are some " cloister " shelters, which can be rented from the To\\ti Council. PLACES OF WORSHIP. {For Hours of Divine Service, see pp. 21-23.) THERE is little in Bournemouth that is not beautiful. Roads and buildings, parks and groves, squares, ar- cades and gardens, all harmonize with the general impression of brightness, freshness and charm pervading the town and neighbourhood ; and among the rest of the public buildings the places of worship are in nearly every instance grace- fully constructed. Indeed, many are examples of the best forms of modern architecture. St. Peter's Church, at the junction of Gervis and Hinton Roads, close to the Square and the Pleasure Gardens, claims first attention, both as the Mother Church of Bournemouth and for the grace of its style and adornment. In 1850 it was nothing better than a plain brick structure ; but in the following year, the Rev. A. M. Bennett, the Vicar, set to work with the obj ect of raising a church which should be a fitting ornament to the even then beautiful town. Little by little, as funds per- mitted, one feature after another was added, until, as the result of strenuous endeavours lasting for twenty-eight years, the church was completed, and in its exquisite proportions stood both as a memorial of Mr. Bennett's earnestness and of Mr. G. E. Street's architectural skill. A month after the thanksgiving service that marked the completion of the noble edifice the Vicar died, and was laid to rest in the church- yard close to the south porch. " No expense or thought has been spared," writes an authority on ecclesiastical architecture, " to make the interior worthy of its stately exterior. The majestic proportions of its arches, the length of the nave, the ornate open-timbered roof, the beautiful frescoes, the costly chancel, with its numerous sculptured figures, and the many-coloured windows, 72 PLACES OF WORSHIP 73 all combine to form an ideal place of worship. Above the chancel arch is a fine fresco painting of the Crucifixion, with the three Marys at the foot of the Cross, and on the one side Roman soldiers casting lots over Christ's garments, and on the other a group of Jews. On the north and south walls are paintings upon tiles, illustrating scenes bearing upon the Holy Communion, the Feast of Cana, the Feeding of the Five Thousand, the Last Supper, etc." The windows are worthy of the church. Especially note- worthy are the apostle windows, each bearing a representa- tion of one of the apostles, with a clause of the Apostles' Creed beneath. Keble used to sit in the south transept during his prolonged visit to Bournemouth. The " Keble Window,'* placed in his memory, contains figures of many church worthies, including the author of The Christian Year, robed in his surplice. He is also commemorated by the Keble Chapel, and by a copper tablet placed on Brookside, the house near the Pier where he died in 1866. Close to the south porch, and near to Mr. Bennett's grave in the tastefully laid-out churchyard, is a fine Cross, 22 feet high, fashioned in thirteenth-century style. On the base are sculptured representations of the Nativity, Crucifixion and Ascension, and of the martyrdom of St. Peter. Among those laid to rest in this beautiful churchyard are Mary W. Shelley, widow of Shelley the poet, and Lewis D. G. Tregonwell, the founder of Bournemouth. In the Old Christchurch Road stands — Holy Trinity Church, a red brick building in the Byzantine style, decorated with terra-cotta, and consecrated in 1869. An unusual feature is the square bell-tower, built away from the Church, and con- taining a peal of five bells in memory of the wife of Dean EHot, of Windsor, a former vicar. The interior of the church is plain, the chief feature being the large rose window in memory of Bishop Sumner, for forty-two years Bishop of Winchester. Holy Trinity was the second church built at Bournemouth, and to mark its jubilee there were erected in 1920 a new organ and a gilded wrought -iron chancel screen. At the same time was added a memorial tablet to the memory the first Vicar, the late Rev. Dr. P. F. Eliot, K.C.V.O., who subsequently became Dean of Windsor. 74 PLACES OF WORSHIP St. Andrew's Church, Malmesbury Park, is a Chapel-of- Ease to Holy Trinity. St. Clement's Church, between Springboume and Boscombe, and reached by Knole Road, a turning on the left out of Christchurch Road, is a grey stone edifice of very graceful proportions. The building affords one of the most interesting examples in England of the revival of Gothic architecture, and takes high rank among the beautiful structures with which Bournemouth and its neighbourhood are adorned. It is planned in the form of a stately nave and chancel, with a north aisle and Lady Chapel. The tower opens into the west end of the nave. St. Mary the Virgin's Church, Holdenhurst Road, is a chapel-of-ease to St. Clement's. St. Stephen's Church, a memorial of the Rev. A. M. Bennett, the first Vicar of Bournemouth, is in St. Stephen's Road, a turning on the left out of Richmond Hill from the Square. It is a structure of remarkable beauty, as the visitor will agree who first sees, from the south porch, the interior with the graceful length of the nave separated from the aisles by twelve arches, rising from clustered columns with finely-moulded capitals and bases. Above the arches is a quatre-foiled parapet, beneath which is a corbel table. Higher still are lofty clerestory windows decorated with foliated circles. The church is a brick edifice faced on the exterior with Swanage stone and inside with Bath stone. An interesting feature is the font, cut from a solid block of Italian marble ; and also worthy of close attention is the pulpit, of Carrara marble, with repre- sentations of Scriptural subjects, and at the angles figures of six women saints. The Lady Chapel is particularly fine, and the window glass, though modem, is very beautiful. The apsidal chancel, with its carved oak communion table, is in harmony with a building the rich ornamentation of which places it in a high rank among modern English churches. The Hfe-size Crucifix in the rear of the church is a War Memorial. St. Augustin's Church, Wimborne Road, close to the Cemetery Gates, is a fine building in the Early Decorated style. It was originally PLACES OF WORSHIP 75 built and presented to St. Stephen's parish by the late Canon Twells as a chapel-of-ease, but now serves a large and im- portant parish of its own and has a Mission Hall in connection. In Charminster Road, in the northern part of the parish, is St. Alban's Church, a large, handsome building of modem design. St. Michael's Church, at the Bournemouth end of the Poole Road, is another of the many places of worship that add to the beautiful appearance of the town. Among its features of interest are the frescoes in the chancel illustrative of the Te Deum, the stained me- morial windows, the exquisitely-carved oak screen separating the sanctuary from the chancel, and the pulpit \vith its sculp- tured representations of St. Michael, Jacob's dream. Lot's escape from Sodom, and other Biblical subjects. The tower of the church is a prominent object on the west side of Bournemouth. Among the pine trees on the East Cliff, in the open space between Gervis Road East and Manor Road, is St. Swithun's Church, built in 1876 as a chapel-of-ease to St. Peter's. Its- chief feature is the carved reredos, a work of singular beauty ^ Near to the Central Station, at the junction of St. Paul's Road with Littledown Road, is St. Paul's Church, a large and handsome building in the Early English style. The tower con- tains a peal of eight bells. The graceful spire was added in 1903 as a memorial of Queen Victoria. Objects of interest within are the handsome oak pulpit ; the reredos of Caen stone and alabaster, picturing the Lord's Supper ; the painted windov/s of the apse, and the fine series on the south side of the nave illustrating the life and labours of St. Paul. In Surrey Road, close to the Upper Pleasure Gardens, is St. John's Church, and on the West Cliff Road. Westbourne,. overlooking the head of Alum Chine, stands St. Ambrose's Church, a fine example of fifteenth-century Perpendicular work. In Pokesdown is St. James's Church, built on a site pre- sented by Sir George Meyrick. It is a sandstone structure with Bath stone dressings, and with Purbeck marble adorn- ments in the interior. Other churches are St. John the Evangelist, Christchurch Road, Boscombe ; St. Andrew's, Florence Road, Boscombe ; St. Luke's, Winton ; and All Saints', Southboume. 76 PLACES OF WORSHIP Christ Church (Reformed Episcopal Church of England) is in Alumhurst Road, Westbourne. Baptist. The oldest in the district is the Baptist Church in Palmer- ston Road, Boscombe. In the Lansdowne Road is the Lansdowne Baptist Church ; at the corner of Poole Road and Grosvenor Road stands the West Cliff Tabernacle, and at Freemantle, Boscombe, is the East Boscombe Tabernacle. Congregational. The Richmond Hill Congregational Church, situated be- tween Bourne Avenue and St. Stephen's Road, was built in 1 891 on the site of an earlier structure. It is a fine building, the interior so arranged that the preacher is in sight of practi- cally every member of the congregation. The Charminster Road Congregational Church, at the corner of Capstone Road, is in connection with the Richmond Hill Church. On the Holdenhurst Road is the East Cliff Congregational Church, built of white brick with stone dressings. Its clock tower is a prominent feature of this end of the Holdenhurst Road. In the Poole Road is the Westbourne Congregational Church, a stone building in the Perpendicular style. There are other churches of the same denomination in Christchurch Road, Boscombe, and at Pokesdown and Southbourne. Presbyterian. St. Andrew's, Exeter Road, close to the Square, in the Early English style, is noted for its lofty, graceful spire. St. Mark's is in Bath Road. In Wyndham Road, Spring- bourne, is the McGill Presbyterian Mission, built in memory of the Rev. J. McGill, for many years pastor of St. Andrew's. Wesleyan. The Punshon Memorial Church, Richmond Hill, was built in 1886 to take the place of the earliest of the Bournemouth Wesleyan church'es, which was pulled down in the making of Post Office Road, between the Old Christchurch Road and Richmond Hill. The style of architecture is the Early Decorated, a beautiful feature being the spire, 130 feet in lieight. k PLACES OF WORSHIP 7T There are a number of other fine Nonconformist places of worship in the borough, a hst of which is given on p. 22—3. Roman Catholic Churches. At the junction of Richmond Hill and Albert Road is the Church of the Sacred Heart, a tastefully constructed building of white brick with Bath stone dressings. Adjoining the Convent of the Holy Cross, in Parkwood Road, Boscombe, with entrance from the Christchurch Road, is Corpus Christi Church, built in the Early English style with red brick. In Middle Road, Westbourne, is a temporary structure known as the Chapel of Mary Immaeulate, to be replaced in time by a permanent building. There is also the Church of the Annunciation, Richmond Park Road. WALKS FROM BOURNEMOUTH. THERE are walks enough within the Hmits of Bourne- mouth to satisfy the visitor who is content to stroll leisurely and enjoy the rus in urhe without the fatigue of journeying into the country around ; walks so beautiful, through parks and pleasure grounds, heathery moors, forest- like avenues and patches of woodland, that a great part of the town seems to be a panorama of sylvan charm ; walks so varied that not even those who roam most industriously will soon exhaust their wonder and their beauty. But to the young and active there is an attraction in a straightforward trudge with an object in the background, and for such the following description of the walks around Bournemouth is penned. In nearly all cases the distances can be considerably shortened by taking advantage of the motor-buses or electric trams, either for part of the way or for the whole of the out- ward or homeward journey. I. To Talbot Woods. By the courtesy of the Earl of Leven and Melville, the pine-covered expanse of Talbot Woods is open to the public who visit them afoot or by bicycle. Motors and chars-a-bancs are not admitted; dogs are allowed, but must be under proper control, and smoking is most strictly prohibited. The necessity for the last precaution, especially in dry weather, will be apparent to everyone who knows the comfort of a couch of pine needles. The Woods lie to the north of the Upper Pleasure Gardens, and may be reached from the Square in a few minutes by way of Bourne Avenue and Branksome Wood Road, the one being a continuation of the other {see our plan of the town). The Woods may also be reached by paths across the Meyrick Park golf links. For further notes on the Woods, see p. 6i. Just a furlong south of the rail- way will be seen a Barrow, in which an urn was recently found ; there is another one mile west, across the bridge, called Fern Barrow. 78 SWANAGE AND THE ISLE OF PURBECK WARD, LOCK, & CO., Ltd. Warw.ck House Salisbury Square, [OUTH TALBOT VILLAGE 79 The return to the heart of Bournemouth can be varied by taking the turning to the right at the farther end of Talbot Woods. A quarter of a mile from the exit is the Cemetery, and at its southern angle is Wimbome Road, which runs into Richmond Hill and the Square. IL To Talbot Village. (6 miles return,) This pleasant village (the parish including Wallisdown, Ens- bury Park, and part of East Howe) is three miles from Bournemouth Square. Follow the road through the Woods as described in Walk I. Cross the railway, and continue to Talbot Avenue, about half a mile west of Winton (an attrac- tive district rapidly filling up, which the Moordown trams pass via the Wimborne Road. Winton possesses a small recreation ground presented by the Earl of Malmesbury), Talbot Avenue, followed to the left (north-westward), leads in about a mile to — Talbot Village, a charming settlement named after its founder. Miss Georgina Charlotte Talbot, of Hinton Wood House, Bournemouth. It consists for the main part of five small farms, some twenty picturesque cottages (each having an acre of ground around it), seven liberally-endowed alms- houses, a church and a school. The fortunate tenants of the cottages pay for their pretty dwellings and surrounding land only £6 per annum and the water rate. In the beautiful churchyard is a monumental stone Cross, in memory of Miss Talbot, on which is a brief summary of her peaceful and useful career, with the tribute — " She hath done what she could.'* The churchyard also contains a simple Memorial Cross to the memory of those who fell in the War. Bournemouth can be regained (i ) by returning along Talbot Avenue to the Wimbome Road and then by tram to the Square, or (2) by a grass-covered road on the left just short of the village inn. This leads across the moor in a S.E. direction, over the railway bridge, and thence through the Upper Pleasure Gardens. The south side of this moorland route is flanked by a hillside (Talbot Mount Estate), rich in clays and sands, that narrowly escaped alien pre-war 80 BRANKSOME— CANFORD CLIFFS attention, the utility of the deposits ranging from " biscuit '* china to " crocks," from fine to rough glass. Botanically, too, this is an interesting locality : bog myrtle, sphagnum moss, and sun-dew abound. III. To Branksome. (About 6 miles return.) From the Square take tram along the Commercial Road and Poole Road to County Gates, a small arch on the left- hand side of the road, marking the boundary between the Counties of Hampshire and Dorset. From this point a broad and beautiful walk, known as The Avenue, bordered by pines and rhododendrons, leads through Branksome Park to the sea. From Tower Road, on the right, a swing gate leads into Branksome Chine, the natural beauty of which is a notable feature even in a region of such loveliness as Bournemouth and the neighbourhood. The Chine is a broad valley running inland for nearly a mile, studded with pine trees and luxuriant with heather, bracken and rhododendrons. In its depths tiny lakes nestle and a stream winds towards the sea ; and shady paths branch off in all directions, revealing unexpected gems of scenery. The visitor will do well to walk through the Chine along one side of the stream and back by the opposite side. The return to Bournemouth can be made either by the beach, or partly by the beach and up Alum Chine or Middle Chine to the West Cliff. IV. To Canford Cliffs. (About 6 miles return.) To County Gates, as in Walk III, and take the second turning along the Avenue to the right beyond All Saints* Church, leaving Branksome Chine to the left. Near the Post Office a road to the left leads to Canford Cliffs, along whose heights stretches a breezy moorland facing the sea for over 6oo yards, and affording fine views in one direction over the lake-like Poole Bay, and in the other across the Channel to- wards the Isle of Wight. This is a favourite residential quarter, and in recent years a number of very handsome villas have been erected. Passing the opening to Flag Head Chine there is a steep descent to Panorama Beach, from which Parkstone may be reached by the main road, and the return to Bournemouth made by tram. 83 ^ sLM --^ STUDLAND 81 V. To Studland. (About 12 miles.) To Panorama Beach, as in Walk IV, and by road along the shore to the Haven Hotel, near to which is a Ferry across the Harbour ; then along the sands to Studland, a charming village that gives its name to the bay on which it stands. The beach is strewn with many varieties of shells and seaweed ; and those interested will do well to visit the Church, one of the prettiest Norman structures in Dorset. A short distance to the north-west of the village, on a low mound, stands a mass of iron sandstone known as the Agglestone, 19 feet in height, and weighing, it is estimated, over 400 tons. The stone is so curious that there is, naturally, many a legend concerning it. Beneath it, one account says, lies a British chieftain who fought and died for his country against the Romans ; but more romantic, though even less certain, is the connection of the rocky boulder with his Satanic highness, w^ho, so the story goes, flew with tlie stone across the Solent from the Isle of Wight with the object of dropping it upon Salisbury Cathe- dral, which he hated alike for its beauty and its sacred associations ; but the burden was too heavy, and he had per- force to let it fall upon the spot where it now lies. At certain places along the beach between Studland and South Haven occur what are known as " Musical Sands." They were first noticed in 1887 by Mr. C. Carus- Wilson, who has kindly contributed the followdng note on the subject : — " These * singing sands ' are usually accumulated midway between the sea-margin and the dunes under favourable conditions of wind and tide, and are confined to certain patches of varjdng size. On walking over these sands, or when drawing a stick or stone along their surfaces, the}^ emit a peculiar sound of a musical character. The notes may be considerably intensified if the sand is placed in a china cup, or bowl, and its surface struck Vvith a wooden plunger. The shrill notes then emitted may be heard for a considerable distance. " The grains of quartz composing this sand are clean, rounded, highly-polished and uniform in size, and when sand grains possess these special physical properties they produce vibrations of approximately equal length if caused to rub one against the other, and these give rise to the musical notes." Mr. Carus-Wilson has since found similar sands in other localities. Bournemouth (f) 82 HENGISTBURY HEAD— CHRISTCHURCH VI. To Hengistbury Head. {About lo miles return.) Take the tram to Southbourne, which may also be reached along the sands from Boscombe. From Southbourne it is an interesting walk by cliff or shore to Hengistbury Head, (p. 70), purchased a few years ago by Mr. Gordon Self ridge. Those who like a change of scenery for the return walk will cross by ferry to Mudeford, and get back to Bournemouth via Christchurch. (Mudeford to Christchurch Priory, 2 miles). There is no established ferry. Where the headland approaches most closely to Mudeford, a fisherman must be hailed. A penny or two for each passenger will satisfy him. Those satisfied by the outward walk can journey from Mudeford to Christchurch by a launch which plies during summer. In prehistoric times Hengistbury Head was fortified by large earthworks. During the last few years excavations have brought to light a considerable number of flint implements, mostly of the Neolithic period ; fine examples of Bronze Age pottery, and urns containing cremated remains ; an incense cup ; gold, amber and bronze objects ; and a collec- tion of over 4,000 gold, silver and bronze coins, mostly British. There were also discovered large jars that seemed to have been sunk in the soil for the storage of corn ; many querns, showing that some form of bread was made ; and loom weights and spindle whorls, indicating that weaving was carried on. VH. To Christchurch. (About 10 miles return.) To Hengistbury Head, as in Walk VI, vid, ferry to Mudeford, and thence by road or by launch ; or at Southbourne take the direct road followed by the trams. Just before reaching Tuckton Bridi^e, take a lane on the right to Wick Ferry (id.). By crossing the river in the ferry boat one of the best views of the Priory Church is obtained. A field path leads to the ancient building. The return may be made by the turning at the Antelope Inn, a hostelry in the Christchurch High Street, and by way of the Cemetery boundary to Jumper's Lodge ; then turn to the left over Iford Bridge, and reach Bournemouth by way of Pokesdown and Boscombe. Christchurch is described on pp. 11 5-126. THE STOUR VALLEY 83 VIIL To the Stour Valley. {I ford, about 7 miles return; Throop, about 10 miles return; Holdenhurst, about 8 miles return,) To the lover of scenery the walk to the Stour Valley will prove a great temptation. The road is pleasant and easily found, and the valley so attractive that the walks to and around Throop, Holdenhurst and Iford are certain to be, to the active pedestrian, of the " repeat order " description. Their charm and interest will be far from exhausted in a day's walk ; and to those fond of boating the neighbourhood will be a compelling attraction. Those whose love of riverside scenery is greater than their power, or inclination, for walking, will be well advised to save several miles by taking train or tram to Pokesdown and visit- ing Throop, Holdenhurst and Iford in the reverse order. Or the tram could be taken northward from Richmond Hill to Moordown, and thence to the Stour {see district map). The pedestrian from Bournemouth will go through the Upper Gardens to Prince of Wales' Road, and take the turning to the right through the always charming Talbot Woods, over railway-bridge, to Talbot Avenue. Here inquire for *' Boundary Lane," and follow it (past Aerodrome) to Red Hill Common. Then to Muscliff, with a pretty peep of the river, and on to Throop, with its w^ater-mill, ford, and wooded islet. At this pleasant, straggling village, the river scenery, both up and down the Stour, is of great charm. The banks are fringed with trees that send long arms over the water, and above the ford a wooded islet adds to the beauty of the scene. Journeying on to Holdenhurst, the pedestrian will have the river on his left. A road on the right in Holdenhurst leads by a direct route past Malmesbury Park to Bournemouth, and that on the left to — Iford Bridge, on the main road (more northerly than that followed by the trams) between Pokesdown and Christchurch. Iford is a small village, about a mile north-east of Pokesdown Station, deriving its name from E a- ford, the shallow ford. The village stands on the western bank of the Stour, which is here crossed by a bridge. 84 WEST PARLEY— HERON COURT IX. Redhill Ferry and West Parley. Another delightful walk (in dry weather) along the Stour Valley also begins at the Moordown tram terminus. A field-path leads north-westward to Redhill Ferry, by which the river is crossed, and thence a lane is followed to West Parley (Horns Inn), with an interesting church containing what is known as the " Lydlynch relic/* The return can be made by the same route, or the river can be crossed by a bridge to the west of the village, and the Kinson road followed to Moordown. Kinson Church, parent church to Talbot village church, is well worth a visit. X. To the Rhododendron Plantation. {About 8 J miles return). Follow the Christchurch Road to Iford, cross the bridge, and less than a quarter of a mile beyond turn to the left. (The road branching off to the right leads to Christchurch.) For half a mile the walk lies through a beautiful avenue, at the end of which a turning to the left is in the direction of the Rhododendron Plantation {see p. 96). On the northern side of the Plantation, and less than a mile from Blackwater Ferry, is the village of Heme, or Hurn, between which and the river is Heron Court, once the country house of the Christchurch Priors, now the seat of the Earl of Malmesbury. The house is not shown to the public. Those not fond of walking will save several miles on the return by using Hurn Station, three-quarters of a mile from Heme Bridge, and midway between the Stour and the Avon. Bournemouth 25 26 SEA TRIPS FROM BOURNEMOUTH. FOR information concerning times of departure and fares to the various places touched by the Bournemouth steamboats, see bills widely displayed throughout the town, or apply to Pier Toll House or the Steamboat Office, Syden- ham's Library, adjoining. Among the manifold attractions of Bournemouth the excursions by sea fill a prominent position, owing to the cheapness, excellence, and punctuahty of the services. There are two Steamboat Companies : Messrs. Cosens &Co. owning the fine fleet with buff funnels ; and the Southampton and Isle of Wight Company owning the white funnel fleet. Within easy distance — so easy, indeed, that, during the longer days, afternoon return trips are occasionally arranged — are the Isle of Wight, Portsmouth, Southampton, Poole Harbour, Swanage and Weymouth. Among the more distant excursions are those round the Isle of Wight and to Brighton, Torquay, the Channel Islands and Cherbourg. There is in summer a regular service of steamboats, several times daily, except Sundays, between Bournemouth and Swanage ; but, although frequent, the trips to the more distant places are not so regular. Full particulars are pro- minently advertised, and printed lists of sailings may be had from the Bournemouth offices : for Cosens & Co.'s fleet of steamers at Sydenham's Library, Pier Approach ; and for the Southampton Co.'s line of boats from the Company's Office, Observer Chambers, Albert Road. Of all the sea excursions, the most frequent and the best patronized are those to Swanage. I. To Swanage. It is possible for the traveller who starts early to visit most of the main attractions of this interesting neighbourhood in the interval between the morning out boat and the evening return. But even then he will but have crossed the border 85 86 SWANAGE of this charming little place, with its fine coast scenery and delightful inland country. The whole of the Dorset coast hasT for its characteristics undulating downs and bold chalk cliffs ; but the best country lies inland, and comparatively few Lon- doners know anything of it except through the pages of Mr. Hardy's books. Not for the one-day visitor is the happy chance to wander into the remote and beautiful regions from Lulstead Cove, where Sergeant Troy was drowned, to Salis-1 bury Plain, where Tess of the D'Urbervilles wandered in th^ days of her trouble. But even within the compass of a day's visit from Bourne mouth there is a wealth of interest to be explored in and nea Swanage. On the way by steamboat will be seen the entrancd to Poble Harbour, and then Studland Bay, bounded on the south by Handfast Point. This headland is the termination of a ridge of hills known as Nine Barrov/ Down, upon which Corfe Castle stands. Off Handfast Point are some pinnacles called the Old Harry Rocks, one considerably shorter than the other, thanks to a severe buffeting in 1896. A little beyond will be seen the entrance to Swanage Bay, It is a quiet place, this ancient — Swanage, with its picturesque situation on the rocky coast of the Dorset peninsula known as the Isle of Purbeck. It possesses a fair pier and a fine sea promenade. Though the higher part of the beach is of fine shingle, at all times except high tide a good stretch of clean, gently-sloping sand is exposed. The most notable buildings in the older and higher part of the town are St. Mary's Church, with its twelfth-century tower, and a modern Town Hall which displays the front of old Mercers' Hall, London, designed by Wren. Quite a number of monuments which now " adorn '* the Swanage roads once did a similar duty in the streets and squares of London, whose citizens rejoiced to be rid of them. The principal business of Swanage is in connection with the stone quarries. From these is obtained a hard stone of great value for paving purposes ; but more famous is the Purbeck Marble, as beautiful as the Italian, but less esteemed because more common. These quarries supplied the greater part of the building material for, amongst many other buildings, the cathedrals of Winchester and Salisbury, Romsey Abbey and the Temple Church, London. Valentine & Sans, Ltd.,] [Dundee. THE GREAT GLOBE. /. Welch & Sons,] Bournemouth. TILLY WHIM CAVES. 27 [Portsmouth. 28 TILLY WHIM 87 It is an interesting walk of three miles over the Downs to Studland, with its Norman Church and lovely surroundings. There are also frequent conveyances, but these of necessity take the road, which does not afford such charming views as the Downland footpath. Pedestrians can return to Bournemouth by wal-king along the shore of Studland Bay to Shell Bay Point, whence a ferry plies to Sandbanks, which is approximately four miles from Bournemouth Pier. (A motor *bus runs between the Haven Hotel and County Gates.) Swanage and its neighbourhood are fully described in our Guide to Swanage. Another favourite walk from Swanage is to Durlston Head and — Tilly Whim. The shortest and most pleasant route for pedestrians is by a footpath which may be gained by any of the roads at the back of the Royal Victoria Hotel, a few yards from the Pier. The path leads by a stiff ascent to a house called Craig-y-don. Here turn leftward along the road to the Belle Vue Restaur- ant and pass through the grounds to a path and road leading directly to Durlston Head, the red-brick restaurant being by this time visible. The route is indicated by inscriptions on stones. Below the restaurant known as Durlston Castle stands a great Globe of Portland stone, ten feet in diameter and forty tons in weight. It is so poised as to represent the position of the earth in space, and on it are shown the chief divisions of the earth's surface. Stone benches placed around indicate the eight chief points of the compass ; and in the hope of preserving the globe and the surrounding explanatory tablets from defacement by the penknife of the amateur carver, two large slabs are provided for those who must leave their autographs behind. From the globe a path leads along the bird-haunted cliffs to a tunnel giving access to the — Tilly Whim Caves, formed centuries ago by quarries, and at one time a favourite haunt of smugglers. The tunnel path is dark, but so smooth that it may be traversed in the gloom with confidence. Close to the caves, on Anvil Point, at a height of nearly 88 CORFE CASTLE 200 feet above the sea, is the Lighthouse^ to which visitors are generally admitted at certain hours. Six miles north-west of Swanage is — CORFE CASTLE. Admission, 6d. Open 9 a.m. to dusk, also on Sundays after 2 p.m. Corfe is easily reached from Swanage by train and by char-a-banc from Bournemouth. It is an ancient story that is told by this Porset fortress, once the strongest castle in the kingdom. It was here — or in an earlier building on the same site — that King Edward, in 978, was murdered by his stepmother, Elfrida, in order that her own son might wear the crown of England. She made a great show of hospitality during a visit he paid to her while on a hunting expedition ; but on offering him a farewell cup of wine at the gate she arranged with one of her retainers for the young king to be stabbed in the back in the act of drinking. He was first interred in the neighbouring town of Wareham, but during the next year his body was buried with much solemnity in Shaftesbury Abbey, by direction of Archbishop Dunstan. The Castle v/as destroyed by the Danes a few years after- wards, and rebuilt by William the Conqueror. King John had such confidence in its strength that during the struggle with the barons he placed his regalia here for safety. It was for a time the prison of Edward II, and afterwards of Richard II, both of whom perished miserably, the one at Berkeley, the other at Pontefract. The end of Corfe Castle as a fortress came in the Civil War. During a vigorous siege by the Roundheads it was successfully held for several days by Lady Bankes — an ancestress of the present owner. The spirited lady, as readers of Brave Dame Mary will recall, had but a few servants to support her, but she urged them by words and example to do their best, and so successfully that it was only by the treachery of one supposed to be a faithful friend that the besiegers gained admittance. The massive walls were then undermined, and gunpowder reduced the Castle to its present state of ruin. Visitors approach the Castle by a four-arched bridge, span- ning what was formerly a deep moat ; and by passing beneath the gate tower, which has on each side a ruined round tower, entrance is made into the first ward. In the north-east corner WARD, LOCK, 4 CO., Ltd., Warwick House, Salisbury Square, LONDON. CORFE— THE ISLE OF WIGHT 89 of this spacious court is the Pembroke Tower, built when the Cast'e was occupied by the Earl of Pembroke, Protector of the Kingdom during the minority of Henry III. A tw -arched bridge, crossing a dry moat, leads to Edward the Martyr's Gate. The remains of the Keep tower high above the mound and seem in imminent danger of toppling over. The extensive ramparts are still fairly well preserved in parts and form ex- cellent vantage-points for views of the surrounding country. Eastward the eye roves over Poole Harbour, with Bourne- mouth beyond, while westward a long range of hills is seen, crowned by the square tower of Kingston Church. On either side of the Castle are lofty hills which form even better view- points, though the ascents are somewhat steep. Under the thin disguise of '* Corvsgate Castle," Corfe Castle figures in Thomas Hardy's novel. The Hand of Ethelherta, The village of Corfe consists mainly of two streets and a tiny market-place. The Church is of great interest and should be visited. For fuller particulars of Swanage, Corfe Castle, and the neighbourhood, see the Guide to Swanage in this series. n. To the Isle of Wight. We cannot here attempt a description of the many places of interest in the Island, but must refer readers to our Guide to the Isle of Wight. There are frequent trips to the following resorts in the Isle of Wight : Totland Bay, separated by Headon Hill from Alum Bay, vdth. its variously coloured cliffs, and the neighbouring Needles, is a pleasant little place with delightful land and sea views, white and firm sands, and gorgeous sunsets. Ryde. The chief attractions of Ryde are the Esplanade, with its pleasant view of the always interesting Solent, the Esplanade Gardens and lake, and the Pier, which is about half a mile in length, and is traversed by electric trams. Cowes. Those who reach Cowes by pleasure steamers are generally landed at the Victoria Pier. The Parade is the most attractive part of the little town. The view across the Solent, especially when the roadstead is crowded with yachts, and launches are darting in all directions, is as animated as one could desire. A few yards westward of the Pier is Gowes Castle, the headquarters of the Royal Yacht Squadron, the 90 THE ISLE OF WIGHT premier yacht club of the country. The Castle, with its pretty grounds and conservatory-like "platform,'* incor- porates what is left of a fort built in Henry VIII 's time. Cowes Regatta is held early in August. The state rooms of Osborne, for many years the seaside home of Queen Victoria, are open to the public in summer on Tuesdays and Fridays from 11.30 a.m. to 5 p.m., and in winter on Fridays only from 11.30 a.m. to 3.30 p.m. Those who reach Cowes by steamer, either at the Pontoon or the Victoria Pier, will generally find in waiting small steam launches, which run directly across the river to East Cowes. Persons who walk must proceed up the narrow High Street, presently turning left, down Medina Road, to the Floating Bridge, but the steam launch is quicker and more direct. Brakes are frequently in waiting at the East Cowes landing- stage and run to the Prince of Wales Gate. Those who walk should turn to the right for York Avenue and proceed straight up the hill, with its many pleasant villas, to the lodge of Norris Castle. Here bend to the right to the Prince of Wales Gate, a distance from the landing-stage of about three-quarters of a mile. Visitors are allowed on the road leading directly from the Prince of Wales entrance to Osborne House, and on the footpath leading to the Swiss Cottage, but all other roads and paths are closed. On the right as one enters by the Prince of Wales Gate la the extensive range of bungalows, etc., erected for the Royal Naval College, closed in 1921. For Osborne we turn to the left (road straight ahead leads to Swiss Cottage.) The State Rooms contain some good pictures and statuary, but are chiefly interesting for their associations. The Durbar Room, the Billiard Room, the Drawing 'and Dining-Rooms and the Corridor are shown, but a considerable part of the once royal residence is used as a convalescent home for Army, Navy, and Royal Air Force officers. Full details are given in the Guide to the Isle of Wight. Carisbrooke Castle (open daily from 9.30 to sunset) may be t cached by railway or road either from Cowes or Yarmouth, but intending railway travellers who wish to return by steamer the same day must take care to ascertain beforehand how the trains run. Ventnor. Those who approach Ventnor from the sea cannot fail to be charmed by the view of the little town built on the side of a steep hill. Behind the houses rises the green- U^ .^m^^' m 1 < o W O (X4 H 29 30 THE ISLE OF WIGHT 91 capped St. Boniface Down (787 feet), and, with the exception of one or two narrow, winding streets, the plan of building is in a succession of terraces, tier upon tier, like the rows of boxes in a theatre, with the sea as the stage. The main thoroughfare of Ventnor is a continuation of the high-road from R3^de, Sandown and Shanklin to Blackgang and Freshwater. Ventnor Park, \vith its tennis courts and bowhng green, can be reached by a path which mounts the cliff at the western end of the Esplanade. Bonchlirch, the " east end " of Ventnor, is one of the fairest places along the English coast. Distinguished residents have paid tribute, in perhaps too glowing words, to its beauty ; and Dr. Arnold's declaration that Bonchurch is " the most beautiful thing on the sea-coast on this side of Genoa," is outdone by the statement of Miss Sewell, the well-known writer of tales for children, that Heaven itself could scarcely be more beautiful. In the old graveyard of the Norman Church close by the sea are buried the Rev. William Adams, author of the exquisite allegories. The Distant Hills and The Shadow of the Cross ; and John Sterling, whose pathetic letters, dated from " Hillside^ Bonchurch," when he realized at the age of thirty-seven that his days were numbered, are included in Carlyle's monograph on his gifted countryman. In the graveyard of the new^ church lie the remains of Swinburne, the poet (d. 1909). Sandown and Shanklin. Each town is famous for its fine stretch of clean, firm sands. The chief attractions at Shank- lin are the sands and pier, the neighbouring Dovms, the Chine, the pretty Rylstone Gardens, and the romantic Landslip (now public property) within easy walking distance west- ward. It is a glorious walk of four miles over the Downs from Shanklin to Ventnor. (For full descriptions of all these places see the Guide ta the Isle of Wight in this series.) III. To Southsea and Portsmouth. To one or other of these towns there are almost dail^^ steam- boat trips from Bournemouth and Boscombe Piers, allowing; time on shore for a brief visit to some of the places of interest.. The visitor from Bournemouth, familiar with open spaces and sea views, will probably take less interest in the ever-popular Clarence Esplanade and Common than in the fortifications.- 92 SOUTHSEA— SOUTHAMPTON ^nd harbour of neighbouring Portsmouth, the modern battle- ships and other naval vessels, and the " Wooden Walls of Old England," of which the Victory is the historic type. Many- will doubtless care to wander from Clarence Pier along the Grand Parade, keeping to the left for Broad Street, which leads to the Point, where stands the Star and Garter Hotel, with its snug little private bar-parlour and the identical table at which Nelson delighted to smoke his " churchwarden *' in company with Howe and Keppel. Another distinguished visitor was Sir John Franklin, whose room still bears his honoured name. The host willingly shows interested visitors over this famous house. Dickens's Birthplace, 393, Commercial Road, now a museum, may be reached by the tram line to Cosham. It is visited by thousands. IV. To Southampton. The trips to this flourishing commercial seaport are scarcely less frequent than to Portsmouth and Southsea. There is hardly a more delightful excursion than from Bournemouth into the Solent and up the ever-charming Southampton Water, with its views on the right of the Royal Victoria Hospital and Netley Abbey, the latter a ruin of exceptional beauty. The Abbey may be reached in a few minutes by railway from Woolston Station, on the opposite side of the Jtchen from Southampton Docks. V. To Lulworth Cove. This curious inlet, which has been hollowed into circular shape by the action of the sea, is 1,380 feet across, and forms s. natural and almost landlocked harbour. Its basin-like formation is broken only on one side, where there is a narrow entrance from the sea. There is nothing along the whole English coast like this picturesque little retreat, and it is not surprising that the excursion by sea from Bournemouth is very popular. On high ground about half a mile from the inland village of East Lulworth stands Lulworth Castle, the seat of the Roman Catholic family of Weld, in whose possession it has been since the reign of James I. It is famous for the mag- nificence of its internal decorations. 32 WEYMOUTH 9^ VI. To Weymouth. Weymouth faces east on the great curve formed by the coast of Dorset and Portland. Weymouth Bay is commonly likened to the Bay of Naples. It is without a rival on the south coast, by reason of its strik- ingly graceful formation : a fairly wide open curve on the north, narrowing to a sharper curve on the south. The town is built along this extended frontage, and for the most part faces east. There is comparatively little depth to the town,, as a tidal backwater about three miles long and nearly half a mile wide confines the western portion. At the sea end of the promontory kno^vn as the Nothe is a fort commanding the harbour entrance and Portland Roads, a great naval base.. The main feature of the towra is the Esplanade, extending in a stately curve, and overlooking one of the widest stretches of sand along the coast. Three miles south of Weymouth, reached by train to Port- land Station, is the remarkable ledge called the Chesil Beach,, a pebbly formation running parallel with the coast from Port- land to Abbotsbury, a distance of about ten miles. It is a breezy walk across Portland by way of the Prison, but hardly within the time limits of those who have travelled by steam- boat from Bournemouth. A httle railway makes many parts of the Island accessible. Other sea excursions are up Poole Harbour, to Brighton^ to Cherbourg, and to Torquay and Dartmouth. Earnest attempts are made by the Steamer Companies to plan excursions to meet every possible requirements Some allow almost the whole day to be spent on the sea,, while others provide for landing and the spending of an hcur- or two at some place of interest. There are excursions for the morning and excursions for the afternoon ; and it is possible in summer to have tea in Bournemouth, visit the Isle of Wight, spend an hour on shore, and be home before darkness sets in. Certainly among the attractions of the- place the steamboats are hardly second even to the piner avenues or the gardens. EXCURSIONS BY ROAD FROM BOURNEMOUTH FEW seaside resorts can compare with Bournemouth in the number, variety and attractiveness of inland beauty- spots to be reached by regular and well-managed motor services. Norman churches of cathedral-like proportions ; ruined castles, the history of which dates back to Norman and even to Saxon times ; forest scenes, the associations of which xire linked with many an important event in the national story ; old-world villages, with surroundings of quiet wood- lands or rich pastoral scenery ; and peaceful valleys along which two lovely rivers wind, to mingle at length their waters in Christchurch Bay — all may be pleasantly reached by road from Bournemouth. The usual times for starting are 10.30 or 10.45 and 2.45. Por precise times and fares, which are liable to alteration, v/e must refer visitors to the printed announcements issued by the various proprietors. From their programmes we give a selection sufficient to show how varied and extensive is the choice. Most of the vehicles start from the Square. In addition to the more luxurious char-a-bancs there are available motor -bus services to Bland ford, Salisbury, South- hampton, etc. I. To Wimborne Minster. The route is by way of Talbot Village and on to the model village of Canford Magna, nine miles from Bournemouth. On the right, near the entrance to the village, is Canford Manor, the seat of Lord Wimborne, a modern building with the exception of the kitchen, which is part of the Ursuline Convent which once occupied the site. Readers of Thomas Hardy's Group of Nohle Dames will remember Cheyne Manor. The most interesting feature of the house is the gallery, known as the Nineveh Court, built for the reception of the Assyrian sculptures collected at Nineveh by Sir Henry Layard. The Manor House was for a short time the resi- dence of Queen Adelaide ; and it has frequently been visited in later years by members of the royal family. 94 I CANFORD MAGNA 95 Canford Magna should be visited by every landlord, for it is a model of what a village should be. The cottages, which are nearly all in pairs or short terraces, would, if situated in the out- skirts of a large town, be described by enterprising house agents as " eminently desirable villa residences." The more modern, embowered by luxuriant foliage, are extremely picturesque. There is no public-house in the village, but it possesses one of the most tempting coffee-houses in the king- dom. The rustic wooden porches of this house and its neighbours are, it will be observed, decorated with pine cones. The large house nearly opposite is that of the Agent. Just outside the gates of Canford Manor, and within a few yards of the coach road, is the Church, a building of the Norman and Transition period, in the graveyard of which is a granite tomb sacred to the memory of — "The Right Hon. Sir Henry Austen Layard, G.C.B., the Dis- coverer of Nineveh, sometime a Member of Parliament, and H.M. Ambassador at Constantinople. Bom at Paris, March 5, 181 7, and died in London, July 5, 1894." A mile beyond Canford Manor Village is Wlmborne, de- scribed on pp. 152-8. The motors have perforce to follow the main road, but pedestrians are allowed to use the much more attractive drive through the park, emerging at the lodge close to Wimborne bridge and the railway station. The motor arrangements allow full time for an inspection of the Minster. The return is made by Broadstone and Upper Parkstone. II. To Branksome Chine and Canford Cliffs. A circular tour of nearly ten miles, through the picturesque roads of Branksome Park and Canford Clifis. Time is allowed for a walk through the Chine {see p. 80). III. To the Stour Valley. Circular tour of about ten miles. The route taken is via Charminster Road and Queen's Park to Holdenhurst Village ; then to the Stour Ford, Throop, returning by way of Redhill, Moordown, Winton and Meyrick Park. IV. To Poole Harbour, Sandbanks and the Haven. The route is via the West Chff Drive, passing the Durley, Middle, and Alum Chines, through the Branksome Woods, 96 THE RHODODENDRON PLANTATION past Shell Bay and round Poole Harbour to the Haven Hotel, on the Sandbanks Peninsula. The return is via Canford Cliffs, Branksome Chine, the Rhododendron Avenue and Branksome Park. V. To Ringwood. The outward journey is to the Rhododendron Plantation, as in VI. Then follows a good drive along the banks of the River Avon, through the pretty villages of Heme, Sopley and Bisterne into Ringw^ood, where time is allowed to view the ancient church. The return journey is by way of St. Ives, Ferndown, Longham and Kinson. VI, To the Rhododendron Plantation. The best month for this drive is June, when the flowers are in full bloom. The outward journey is via East Cliff Drive, King's Park, over Iford Bridge, up the Oak Avenue, and to the left past the picturesque Blackwater Ferry to Ramsdown Hill. The return is made via Littledown, Queen's Park and Richmond Park. The Rhododendron Plantation, the property of the Earl of Malmesbury, is generally open to the public from about the middle of May to the third week in June at a small charge, the proceeds being given to Bournemouth hospitals. At this period the flowers are in full bloom and even the glimpse that can be had from the high-road will enable the visitor to understand the beauty and interest of one of the finest sights that even lovely Hampshire can afford. VII. To Lymington. The route is through Christ church and Mudeford, past Highcliffe Castle, and on to Chewton Glen. Lymington, about eighteen miles from Bournemouth, was of more note formerly than now. In the reign of Edward III it contributed twice as many ships for the invasion of France as were supplied by Portsmouth. In the Church of St. Thomas a Becket is some fourteenth-century work. Quite close to the town is the immense British Camp known as Buckland Rings. From Lymington a steamboat runs several times daily to Yarmouth, Isle of Wight. The much-discussed, but long deferred, Solent tunnel is designed to cross to the Island from the vicinity of Lymington. MILFORD-ON-SEA 97 VIII. To Milford-on-Sea. About three miles south-west of Lymington, on the shore of Christchurch Bay, is the pleasant little watering-place of Milford-on-Sea. The air is fresh and bracing, the rainfall small, and the beach, miles in extent, affords excellent bathing. Milford village, slightly inland, takes its name from the ford in a small stream and an adjacent mill, which stood there in Norman times as it stands to this day. The ford, however, has been replaced by a bridge. The church is chiefly Norman. From the village the ground rises to the top of the Milford, Hordle and Barton cliffs, which at their loftiest point attain a height of i8o feet. The view from this high ground is very grand. Seaward it embraces an unbroken expanse of the channel, in which vessels are al- ways to be seen entering or leaving the Solent. Jutting out from the coast for about a couple of miles is a narrow strip of land called the Shingles. At the ex- tremity stands Hurst Castle, which commands the entrance to Southampton Water. It was built by Henry VIII and for a short time Charles I was held prisoner in it. Milford-on-Sea is 3I miles from Milton Station, on the Bournemouth direct line, and 4|- miles from Lymington Station, with which it is connected by a motor-bus service. In the hunting season, hounds meet in the neighbourhood of Milford almost daily. IX. To Corfe Castle. Route : via Upper Parkstone, Upton, the Tichbome Estate, the pretty village of Lytchett, and Wareham, with its ancient earthworks, which protected the old town on three sides, the defence of the fourth being the River Frome. Strange as it may seem to-day, Wareham was once a busy port. It contains the Saxon Church of St. Martin and the equally interesting Church of St. Mary. The tower and chancel of the latter are very ancient. It was to this church that the body of King Edward was brought after he had been done to death by his treacherous stepmother at Corfe Castle. For description of Corfe Castle, see pp. 88-9 ; for a note on Wool, near Wareham, see p. loi. X. To Blandford. Blandford, or Blandford Forum, to give its full title, is a small market town picturesquely situated on the Stour. It Bournemouth (g) II 98 DRIVES FROM BOURNEMOUTH is the " Shotsford " of The Hand of Ethelberta and other novels by Thomas Hardy. The route thither is via Newtown, Corfe Mullen, Sturniinster, and Charlton Marshall, and affords a view of Bryanstone Manor, the residence of Lord Portman. The return is by Charborough Park, the Tichborne Estate, \ and Poole Park. XI. To the New Forest. i The route taken in this, the most popular of all the trips from Bournemouth, is through Boscombe, across the Stour, and on to Christchurch ; thence to Hinton Admiral, where it is the usual practice to stop at the ancient hostelry of the Cat and Fiddle, whose portals thirsty travellers during six centuries have entered to be refreshed. The drive is continued through Sir George Meyrick's estate to New Forest Lodge, on the border of the Forest, and by Wilverley Post, where there is a charming view of Boldrewood. For several miles the forest scenery is at its best, past Annesley Bank, long the residence of the late Miss Braddon, into Lyndhurst (20 miles from Bournemouth). Here a halt is made for luncheon, time being given for a visit to the Church [see pp. 144-6). On restarting from Lyndhurst, the drive is continued to Rufus's Stone, a gUmpse being obtained of Castle Mai wood Lodge, long the home of Sir William Vernon Harcourt, and a fine view afforded of Southampton Water from Stoney Cross. From Rufus's Stone the route lies through Bratley Wood into Ring wood, and the home journey is for nine miles along the banks of the Avon through Bisterne and Sopley. For a fuller description of the New Forest, see pp. 1 36-1 51. XII. To Southampton, Winchester and Romsey. This is a motor ride through the most beautiful parts of the New Forest. Lunch is taken at Winchester [see pp. 159- 170), and tea at Lyndhurst (pp. 144-6). XIII. To Salisbury. Ringwood is visited in the course of this excursion and fine views of the New Forest are obtained. Salisbury is treated at length on pp. 127-132. Trips of greater length carry the Bournemouth visitor to such distant spots as Stonehenge, Eath, and Cheddar. MOTOR AND CYCLE ROUTES. THE following outline of the most popular road routes from Bournemouth is intended for the private motorist and the cycHst. The various places are described in detail elsewhere. Several of the public motor excursions are indicated in the preceding chapter. I. To Christchurch. From the Square proceed along Old Christchurch Road, through Boscombe and Pokesdown to Iford Bridge, beyond which turn to right into Christchurch (5^ m.). II. To Lymington. To Christchurch as in No. i . Turn to left near end of High Street, over river, and on through Purewell and Newtown (9 m.). Just beyond is a short descent to a bridge, on the other side of which is an ascent followed by a level surface to Milton. Then on through Ashley to Do.wnton (i2|- m.), approached by a short, steep ascent, Everton and Pennington Cross to Lymington (17 m.). in. To Beaulieu Abbey. To Lymington as in No. II. Cross Lymington Bridge (toll ^d. including cycle) and climb the short, steep ascent of Walhampton Hill ; then there is a long run dowTi to Crockf ord Bridge, from w^hich is an easy undulating road across Beaulieu Heath and past Hatchet Pond to the Abbey ruins (2 3 J m.) IV. To Lyndhurst. By way of Christchurch and Purewell as in No. II. ; then by an easy road ; keep to left at fork one and a half miles beyond Purewell, and the way is direct to Lyndhurst (19 m.). V. To Southampton. To Lyndhurst as in No. IV. In main street keep straight on, past the Crown Hotel, to Lyndhurst Road Station and 99 100 MOTOR AND CYCLE ROUTES ' Totton, and at end of village turn left over railway crossing. At Red Lion Inn bear to the right, cross river, and the road is direct to the outskirts of Southampton. Follow tram-lines to right along Above Bar Street to centre of town (30 m.). The return journey might be made by way of Hythe, Beaulieu and Lymington. This would add about five miles to the distance. VI. To Portsmouth. To Southampton as in No. V. From Bar Gate to left along East Street for Itch en Ferry, mount the hill and at the foot of the opposite descent turn to left beneath railway, and keep to main road. Then half a mile beyond railway turn to right for Titchfield (8^ m. from Southampton). At bottom of hill in Titchfield bear right, and then to left towards Stubbington. Keep to left over Green and again left at Church. The turnings are still rather frequent, but direction-posts will assist the rider to Gosport and on to Portsmouth. (Bourne- mouth to Portsmouth, 46J m.) VII. To Romsey. To Lyndhurst as in No. IV. At Lyndhurst turn right, and beyond Church turn left, thence by straight road to Cadnam, The road is now direct to Ower, at end of which a turning on the right leads to Romsey {31 J m.). VIII. To Winchester. To Romsey (31 J m.) as in No. VII. Take main road to right in Market Place, and it is a direct run into Winchester (42 m.). IX. To Ringwood. To Christchurch as in No. I. Cross bridges over Stour and Avon, to left at Priory end of High Street, and take first turning to left for Sopley. If the roads happen to be in a bad condition it will be best to take, not the first, but the second turning along main road, through Staplecross to Sopley. Beyond the Avon at Sopley turn first to left and then to right for Ringwood (14! m.). Bournemouth. "T^ss^;.' MOTOR AND CYCLE ROUTES 101 X. To Salisbury. To Ringwood as in No. IX (14 J m.). At Church turn to right along road leading to Fordingbridge. There turn to left, and having crossed river bear to right, after which go straight forv/ard through Downton Wick (26 J m.), Charlton and Britford to Salisbury (31 J m.). The surface is excellent and the road level, with the exception of the ascent and descent at Britford. XL To Poole and Wareham. Leave -Bournemouth by Commercial Road, and when two miles out bear to left toPoole (4|-m.). At end of High Street bear to left of Quay, and then to right. Cross Ham- worthy Bridge (toll J^., including cycle). The road is easy and surface good to Lytchett Gate, where turn to left. Bear to right beyond Lytchett Minster (gj m. ), and to left by Inn at end of village. By railway station turn left into Wareham (14 m.). Alternative. — A mile before reaching Poole turn to right and proceed by way of Upton Park into Lytchett. Five miles from Wareham is the little village of Wool, close to which are the remains of Bindon Abbey {Public admission on Thursdays] small fee). Wool is notable as the scene of dramatic events in Tess of the D' Urbervilles. Wool Manor-House, near the Elizabethan bridge, is the " Well- bridge " of the story and the scene of Tess's honeymoon. To the south-east is Bindon Abbey Mill, in which Angel Clare had his milling experiences. In the Abbey grounds is the stone cofhn in which Tess was placed. The route from Wareham is through East Stoke (17 m.), and onwards to a point slightly on the side of the hill above Wool. There it turns to the left and runs down over the bridge and across the railway Hne into the village (19 miles from Bournemouth). XIL To Corfe Castle and Swanage. To Wareham (14 m.) as in No. XL Leave Wareham by South Street, and make for Stoborough, beyond which keep to left for Norden and on to the Corfe Castle ruins (184 m.). For Swanage* bear to left at top of hill. This is followed by another ascent, after which are two miles of level road, and a little beyond is a further rise leading to a short, steep descent to the railway (22 m.). Bear left beyond 102 MOTOR AND CYCLE ROUTES railway "and then to the right through Herston along the level tract to Swanage (24 m.). XIII. To Weymouth. To Wareham (14 m.) as in No. XI. At Town Hall keep along High Street to right. Two miles past East Stoke {17 m.) Avheel sharply to left over Wool Bridge, and beyond level crossing turn right for Winfrith. Bear to left at Warmwell Cross {26 m.), and proceed up the steep, winding ascent of Osmington to Preston, where keep to the left for Weymouth Bay, and along it to the right for Weymouth (32 m.). XIV. To Lulworth Cove. To Wareham (14 m.) as in No. XI. From West Street follow the main Dorchester Road, and after two miles turn to left at direction post, cross railway and river, and make for West Holme and on to East Lulworth (i6| m.). Not quite two miles farther turn to left and beyond the gates the descent, which in places requires great care, leads to West Lulworth, from which Lulworth Cove is half a mile distant (22J m.). XV. To Wimborne. Up the steep ascent of Richmond Hill, and turn to left at Cemetery. There is a sharp rise to Winton [2^ m.), and two more beyond, followed by a long descent through Moordown to Riddlesford and Ensbury (4 m.). From thence it is easy riding through Bear Cross and Canford Magna to W^imborne (10 m.). The return journey might be made by way of Pcole. XVI. To Shaftesbury. Shaftesbury can be made the objective of a very fine run of about 70 miles out and home. To Hamworthy Bridge, as in No. XI. Turn to right and follow the road to Blandford. Bear left in village and in about 3 miles right for Stcurpaine, whence the road is winding but unmistak- able through Compton Abbas to Shaftesbury. The return might be made by way of Tollard Royal and Farnham, through Horton to Ringwood. Thence vid Christchurch as in No. IX. POOLE AND PARKSTONE. THERE is a frequent train service to Poole, but the most pleasant way in fine weather is " outside " a motor-bus or an electric tram via Constitution Hill, from the summit of which there is a delightful view of Poole Harbour, wdth the Purbeck Hills behind. Critics of note have ranked this among the finest landscapes in the world. *^The Lake of Dorset/' as the almost land-locked Poole Harbour has been called, is seven miles long by four and a half broad, with a circuit, if followed closely, of more than a hundred miles, so exceedingly irregular is the inlet. It has double the ordinary number of tides, for the water after flowing fc^ six hours ebbs for one' and a half hours, then flows for the same length of time and again ebbs for three hours. The harbour offers a most pleasant sailing expanse, and hours may happily be spent in skimming over the usually calm surface in company with one of the miany skilled boatmen of Parkstone or Poole. The surroundings of this island-dotted water are full of interest. Here is Ower, with its interesting seagull pond ; and there is Wyche, once the flourishing port of Corfe Castle, and now, with its two houses, not uncomfortably over- populated. In this direction is Arne, a picturesque village with a tiny church, and not a single inn or shop ; and in that is Russel Quay, with its large heronry. If the visitor should tire of these secluded haunts, a word to the boatman will induce him to turn the boat towards the civilization of Wareham or to the delightful village of Studland. Within the Harbour and near the entrance is- — Branksea Island, sometimes called Brownsea. It is about one and a half miles, long by three-quarters broad, and has a circumference of over four^miles. Its sides are covered with fir groves, while 103 104 BRANKSEA ISLAND the interior is broken up into miniature glens and hills, where heath and wild flowers grow in profusion. It was once attached to the Abbey of Cerne in Dorset, and was the site of a hermit's cell. Branksea Castle, built in the reign of Henry VIII and strengthened in Charles I*s time, was an important defence to Poole, for, being at the mouth of the Harbour, it com- manded all shipping passing in and out. That such control proved at times unpleasant to the shipping trade of Poole is proved by a complaint dated 1581, which placed on record that " The Goovner of Bronkseye doth moleste the inhabitants of the towne, and will not suffer them to passe any persons from Northaven Point, butt doth threaten them to shoote at them, and violently doth take ther monye from them, which is not only a great hindrance to poor men that were woonte to gayne that wayse, but also an infrynginge of our liberties, wherefore wee think yt verye necessarye to be remedyd." Nothing seems to have resulted from this protest, for we find that subsequently the high-handed " Goovner *' added deeds to his threats and shot at the Bountiful Gift, killing Walter Meryatt, its owner and captain. During the Civil War the Castle was held by a Parliament garrison, but since then it has been used simply as a dwelling- house, with additions made to it from time to time. Lieu- tenant-Colonel Waugh, who came into possession of Branksea Island in 1848, spent large sums in trying to develop its resources, in building cottages and a beautiful little church, and in transforming the rather baxe-looking Castle into a palatial mansion. This was burned down in 1897, but has been rebuilt. Permission to land (by launch from Poole quay at 2.30, returning 6.30) can sometimes be obtained by writing to the steward of the estate, which is now the property of Mrs. Van Raalte. Among other pleasantly situated islands in Poole Harbour may be mentioned Round Island, Long Island, Green Island, and Furzey Island. There is a dwelling on both of the last two. Near to Poole Bridge, in the backwater by Upton House, is Pergins, an angling spot held in high favour by Sir Roger Tichbome — the real Sir Roger — the house being the family seat. Shutting in Poole Harbour on the eastern side is the long promontory called the Sandbanks. At its extremity is the POOLE 105 growing village of South Haven, largely consisting of bunga- lows and other small residences for summer use. There is a very good bathing beach, which is much frequented. A motor omnibus runs at fixed times between the County Gates in Bournemouth and the Haven Hotel ; motor-boats ply between Sandbanks and Poole Quay daily, Sunday included ; and every few minutes there is a motor ferry between Sandbanks and Shell Bay, famed for its sea shells. POOLE. The old-world town of Poole, five miles west of Bourne- mouth, like time-honoured Christchurch eastward, forms an interesting contrast with the life and gaiety of " The Garden City by the Southern Sea ' '■ — a contrast that, to many people, makes a few hours spent either at Poole or Christchurch a restful relief. True, there is little to see at Poole beyond the park and the majestic sweep of the harbour, with the encircling views beyond, but there is a historical halo about the town which redeems it from the commonplace. In the tenth century it was chosen as a landing-place by the piratical Norsemen ; and into its harbour, in 1015, sailed Canute with his fleet, pushing on to Wareham, near the western end of the haven. Henry III made it a depot for provisioning the fleet ; and so flourishing was it in the fourteenth century that it supplied four ships for the siege of Calais. Its most pros- perous times were in the early years of Elizabeth's reign, when the Poole merchants had considerable trade with Spain. Gharles II ordered the walls and fortifications to be razed to the ground, as a punishment for the stout support the town had given to the Parliament against his father, but in a by- lane off the Quay there still stands a postern gate dating from the reign of Richard III. During the eighteenth century and the early years of the nineteenth, Poole was the stronghold of some of the most daring smugglers in the south of England, the creeks of the harbour and the various chines in the vicinity being admirably adapted for their trade. From time to time efforts have been made to establish a naval base at Poole, and during the War the harbour saw much activity as a depot for various craft belonging to the *' fringes of the Fleet.*' Later, from " Auxihary Shipyard Extension, No. 62,*' a number of concrete vessels were suc- cessfully launched. 106 PABKSTONE The Guildhall dates from about 1750. Other ancient build- ings are the Town Cellars, dating from 1406 and situated near the Custom House ; Almshouses in Church Street, dating from 1429 ; and St. Clement's Postern, the only reHc of the old town wall. It stands in the yard of St. Clements' Inn, near the quay. The most interesting feature of Poole — always excepting the Harbour — is the old-world Quay, from which motor-boats go daily to Wareham, and the most pleasant of its belongings is Foole Park, a large, picturesque tract, ^vith a cricket ground, cycle track and salt-water lake. It is at the junction of the old borough with Parkstone. There are two churches, St. James's and St. Paul's, the former with an exquisitely carved mahogany reredos. The Free Library was a Jubilee gift to the town. Hamworthy (reached by bridge or ferry), a picturesque waterside hamlet, was at one time the nearest westward point to Bournemouth on the L. Sc S.W. Rly. It is a yachtsman's haven for repairs, and a happy hunting-ground of artists. Parkstone, a growing health resort between Poole and Bournemouth, is so surrounded by hills and trees that it has been called '* the English Mentone." Within the parish limits are the Brank- some Park estate, Canford Cliffs, and other properties rapidly being developed. Upper Parkstone, with its bracing situa- tion and fine views over sea and land, bids fair to win favour. There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and the ride by tram-car to Bournemouth is very popular. There is a loop line between Parkstone and Branksome, as well as the main route. Among the buildings, the most interesting is St. Peter's Church. Some enthusiasts declare that when finished it will be a modern rival in grace and style to the structures at Christchurch and Wimborne. Seven Florentine lamps, pre- sented by the late Right Hon. G. A. F. Cavendish-Bentinck,. are hung from the chancel roof, and at the top of the sanc- tuary steps stand two very large Venetian candlesticks. A later acquisition is a fine stone pulpit. In 1 91 8 the late Sir Merton Russell-Cotes placed his Park- stone estate at the disposal of the Barnardo Homes for the development of a Nautical School, and on May 8, 191 9, the foundation-stone of the new buildings was laidby H.R.H. the PARKSTONE 10 T Duke of York. In addition to five houses, each accommodating sixty boys, there are a gymnasium, sanatorium, swimming bath, chapel and workshops. The scheme is akin to that of the Watts Naval Training School, in Norfolk ; Parkstone,. however, training young sailors for the Mercantile Marine. The Parkstone and Canford Golf Course {i8 holes) is of a highly sporting character by reason of its natural undula tions. It commands wonderful views. Green fees : Day, 3s. ; after 12 noon, 2s. ; week, 155. ^ month, {2. ; Sundays and holidays, ^s. ^ THE AVON VALLEY. THE Salisbury Avon, as it is called to distinguish it among the goodly company of rivers of the same name, has its source in the Wiltshire Downs, flows through Salisbury, ■almost reflecting in its waters the tapering Cathedral spire, iorms the western boundary of the New Forest, and, after winding through country enchanting in its quiet loveliness, ■enters the English Channel at Christchurch Bay by the same mouth as the Stour. '* According to the folklore of Hampshire," says Shore, in 3iis History of Hampshire, " this was the river into which the fair Gwendoline fell while walking with her not very dis- tinguished lover, and from the bank of which, as she sank beneath the water, she gathered a tiny blue flower and threw it to him, saying, * Forget-me-not.' '* There is so much of interest in the scenery and associations of the Avon Valley that those fond of walking will find a day well spent in exploring the river from Christchurch to Ringwood. The less actively inclined can take advantage of Ihe motor-bus service which runs from Bournemouth to Christchurch and thence up the Avon Valley to Ringwood and Salisbury. Or they can travel via Christchurch to Heme Station — spelt Hurn in the railway timetables — and visit Tyrrell's Ford and Sopley village, situated respec- tively a little less than two miles N.E. and S.E. of the station, going east first to cross the river, then north or south. For those who wish to journey to Ringwood easily and directly the char-a-banc service is convenient, while there is a fairly frequent train service from Bournemouth and Christ- church. But only the pedestrian can fully realize the charm of this tranquil river valley. Starting from Christchurch, take the turning along Bridge Street and Castle Street. At less than a mile from the Priory Church a road on the left leads to Staple Cross, so called from the old stone cross still standing. About half a mile distant, reached by the left of three roads, is Burton, where Coleridge resided in 1816, and at the TIall of which Southey stayed in 1791, describing the place 108 35 ^ilrt^n^ -e-Jiiiii** •'^ '' ' F. G. 0. Stuart,] [Southampton, COTTAGE AT SWAN GREEN, NEAR LYNDHURST. F. G. 0. Stuart,'] [Southampton, ON THE BEAULIEU ROAD. 36 SOPLEY 10» as being near ** a congregation of rivers, the clearest one ever saw.'* In the Fifth of his " Inscriptions," Southey makes the view of the Avon from the neighbouring St. Catherine's Hill (i6o feet high) the subject of a poetical moralizing on fleeting life : — " Look, how bright its pebbled bed Gleams through the ruffled current ; and that bank With flag leaves bordered, as with two-edged swords I See where the water wrinkles round the stem Of yonder water-lily, whose broad leaf Lies on the wave. ... Soon, traveller, does the river reach the end Of all its windings ; from the near ascent Thou wilt behold the ocean, where it pours Its waters and is lost. Remember, thou Traveller, that even so thy restless years Flow to the ocean of eternity." On the hill are the remains of a large Roman camp. (See- also p. ii6.) Three and a half miles north of Christchurch is the pictur-^ esque river-side village of — Sopley, with its interesting Church built upon a mound. Rhys, in his Origin and Growth of Religion, says : " The Kelts of the- British Isles had sacred mounds which were known as the gods' mounds " ; and Shore, a local historian, believes that the Hampshire mounds are of Keltic origin. " A number of: ancient churches in Hampshire," he^^^rites, " are built upon artificial mounds. . . . Higher up the Avon a mound may be seen on which the church of Sopley stands. The Saxons appear to have utilized sacred Keltic mounds for Christian purposes. It is, of course, possible that these mounds were first adapted to Christian uses by the early British Chris- tians." Sopley Church is a cruciform structure \vith a low tower at the west end, and not, as is usual, at the intersection of the arches. The building, enlarged from a Norman capella^ dates from the thirteenth century, although some parts. belong to a later period. The pillars and arches of the nave belong to the fourteenth century, as does also the chancel arch, which had a rood-loft entrance, while the east window and transept arches are Perpendicular. Some parts of art. ancient rood-screen are contained in the prayer-desk. Sup- porting the arch leading from the north aisle are two corbels- a 10 TYRRELL'S FORD with heads, supposed to represent Edward III (or Edward II) ^and his queen. It is almost a sHght upon the antiquity of this beautiful church to mention that the pulpit is Jaco- bean, dating only from the early years of the seventeenth century. The south chancel door is very rough and ancient. An excellent hagioscope connects the south transept with the chancel. In the latter are two seats and desks with seven- teenth-century linen pattern panels. The screened vestry "has the same work. The Rev. J. F. Vallings, vicar of Sopley, and a novelist •of more than local fame, has made the district the scene of his story. The Severing Sword. Less than two miles north of Sopley, in the scattered "village of Avon, is — Tyrrell's Ford, the spot, according to local tradition, at which Sir Walter Tyrrell crossed the Avon in his flight from the New Forest •after the death of William Rufus. Concerning this event many stories have been told. Tyrrell declared that the arrow Avas shot by an unknown hand, and that he had run away irom fear that he would be accused of the murder — which he certainly was ! Others said that Tyrrell shot at a stag and the arrow glanced aside from an oak, a statement that no one can credit who has ever seen the flight of an arrow. But nobody knows the facts with certainty ; and in those days people were too glad to be rid of Rufus to trouble about the manner of his death. Tradition has it that Tyrrell, like Llewellyn of Wales at a later period, caused his horse to be Te-shod at the smithy with the shoes the wrong way about, in order to lead pursuers astray. Strong circumstantial evidence supports the local tradition concerning the ford, for we read in Shore's History that " Avon Tyrrell where Walter Tyrrell is said to have crossed the River Avon, was ■a manor held by the Tyrrell family in the fourteenth cen- tury." The manor is now held by Lady Manners, whose modern Elizabethan residence on the hill overlooking the estate has been named Avon Tyrrell. A few ruins mark the site of the traditional smithy, but a quarter of a mile away is another smithy which drivers of the public convey- ances point out as that at which the historical shoeing took place. Two miles north of Avon is Bisterne Park, A glimpse of BISTERNE PAKK— RINGWOOD 111 the house may be had from the road to Ringwood. In con- nection with Bisterne there is a curious example of the simple faith of olden days, when the modem sea-serpent had its counterpart in the dragon. The neighbourhood was infested by a dreadful dragon, against which a doughty knight, named Berkeley, sallied forth armed only wdth his sword and a jug of milk. In what is still called the Dragon Field, the knight waited in a glass case for the dragon, after ha\'ing placed the milk temptingly in cans on the ground outside. The creature was killed in the act of lapping. Stranger still is it to know that the dragon figures on the Bisterne arms, and that there is in existence a deed of Edward IV, which " conferred knight- hood upon, and granted permission to. Sir Macdonie de Berkeley to wear the dragon on his badge, for having killed a dragon at Bisterne, in the county of Southampton." Two and a half miles beyond Bisterne Park is the ancient little town of — Ringwood, prettily situated on the east bank of the Avon. Close to the bridge is a row of thatched cottages, near which stands Mon- mouth's House, so called because it is said to have been the temporary residence of the Duke of Monmouth in the course of his ill-fated expedition. The close connection of Ringwood and its neighbourhood wdth the fall of the royal rebel makes the following passage from Macaulay's History, vdth. its de- scriptive local touches, of peculiar interest in these pages : — " He (IMonmouth) determined to push for Hampshire, in the hope that he might lurk in the cabins of deer-stealers among the oaks of the New Forest, till means of convey- ance to the Continent could be procured. Nor was this so difficult as it may now appear. For men then living could remember the time when the wild deer ranged freely through a succession of forests from the banks of the Avon in V/iltshire to the southern coast of Hampshire. . . . Monmouth and his friends procured rustic attire, disguised themselves and pro- ceeded on foot towards the New Forest. They passed the night in the open air, but before morning they were surrounded on every side by toils. It was an extensive tract of land, separated by an enclosure from the open country, and divided by numerous hedges into small fields. In some of the fields the rye, the pease and the oats were high enough to conceal a man. The outer fence was strictly guarded, the space within was examined ^vith indefatigable diligence, and several 112 RINGWOOD dogs of quick scent were turned out among the bushes. Several times the fugitives ventured to look through the outer hedge, but everywhere they found a sentinel on the alert. " At sunrise the next morning the search recommenced. The corn and copsewood were now beaten with more care than ever. At length a gaunt figure was discovered hidden in a ditch. The pursuers sprang on their prey. The pris- oner's dress was that of a shepherd ; his beard, prematurely grey, was of several days' growth. He trembled greatly and was unable to speak. Even those who had often seen him were at first in doubt whether this was truly the brilliant and graceful Monmouth. . . . The prisoner was conveyed under a* strong guard to Ringwood." The place of capture, known as Shag's Heath, is situated two miles from Horton, between Ringwood and Wimborne. The spot is now marked by a carefully guarded aspen tree. In Ringwood, at the White Hart Inn, Monmouth wrote to his uncle, James II, the memorable appeal for mercy which Macaulay justly describes as '' the letter of a man whom craven fear had made insensible to shame." Death on the block awaited him on his arrival in London, and he lies in St. Peter's Chapel, within the precincts of the Tower of London, almost side by side with the venerable Countess of Salisbury — most proud and fearless of women — w^hose empty chantry is so pathetic a feature in the stately Priory of Christchurch (see p. 123). Unlike Monmouth, she faced the block with the dignity and courage of her royal race. 'the prettiest view of Ringwood is obtained from the bridge, the most prominent object being the square tower of the Church, dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul, and rebuilt in 1854 in the Early English style. Many features of the older struc- ture have been retained in the present building. Close to the church is a mill on the site of one mentioned in Domesday Book. The immediate vicinity of Ringwood furnished Sir David Murray, R.A., with subjects for some of his most famous pictures, including A Hampshire Haying and The River Road, There is some good angling in the Avon in and near Ring- wood, the river containing both salmon and coarse fish. Tickets at the rate of 75. 6d. a day (^s. to the hotel guests) can be obtained at the White Hart, while the Crown Hotel confers the freedom of the mill stream at 2s. 6d. a day (see also p. 27). Bournonouth. 37 7 ^^ ^^-h^cH^-a^^ ELLINGHAM 113 Two miles north of Ringwood is the old church of — Ellingham, thought to be part of an ancient monastic house. The altar- piece includes an old Spanish picture representing, in too fantastic a manner for modern taste, the Day of Judgment. It was rescued from the plunder of a church at Port St. Mary, in the Bay of Cadiz, by Brigadier- General Windsor, when the town was sacked by the English in 1702. But the chief interest in Ellingham centres in its associa- tion with Dame Alice Lisle, who died the death of a traitress in 1685, and now figures in honourable State recognition among the frescoes in the Houses of Parliament. The carved family pew of the Lisles is religiously preserved in the church ; and in the churchyard, near the south door, is a tomb with the following inscription :■ — " Here lyeth Dame Alicia Lisle, and her daughter, Ann Hartell, who dyed the 17th Feb., i7of . Alicia dyed the 2nd of Sept. 1685." Moyles Court, rather more than a mile from Ellingham, is the ancient m.anor-house that was the ancestral home of the Lisle family. Dame Alice was the widow of John Lisle, who sat in the Long Parliament, and had received favours from Cromwell for services rendered to the Commonwealth. Naturally his wadow would not be a partisan of the Stuarts ; but she had already given evidence of her wide sympathy by sheltering Royalist fugitives during the Civil War. Her pity had been ever shown to those in distress, no matter what their creed or party. On the night of July 28, 1685, after the Sedgemoor battle and flight of Monmouth, she gave shelter to two fugitives from the rebel camp — a divine and a lawyer — and brought them food in a room that is still pointed out. The kindly Lady of the Manor was arrested, tried at Winchester by the infamous Judge Jeffreys, and put to death upon the scafiold. Let Lord Macaulay tell the pitiful story that lends so pathetic an interest to the stately manor-house in the valley of the Hampshire Avon : — ""Jeffreys gave directions that Alice Lisle should be burned alive that very afternoon. This excess of barbarity moved the pity and indignation even of the class which was most devoted to the Crown. The clergy of Winchester Cathedral remonstrated with the Chief Justice, who, brutal as he was» Bournemouth {h) 114 SOMERLEY PARK was not mad enough to risk a quarrel on such a subject with a body so much respected by the Tory party. He consented to put ofi the execution five days. During that time the friends of the prisoner besought James to be merciful. Ladies of high rank interceded for her. Clarendon, the King's brother-in-law, pleaded her cause. But all was vain. The utmost that could be obtained was that her sentence should be commuted from burning to beheading. She was put to death on a scaftold in the market-place of Winchester, and underwent her fate v/ith serene courage." The present owner of Moyles Court has collected there a number of portraits of persons connected with the Rebellion and the judicial murder. On the opposite bank of the river from Ellingham is — Somerley Park, the seat of the Earl of Normanton. From Ringwood it may be reached by the Poole road, turning right soon after crossing the river. Special permission is required for ad- mission to the beautiful Park and to the mansion, with its famous picture gallery, including what is perhaps -the largest existing collection of portraits by Reynolds. The Stour calls for no special description here, for the chief places of interest along its banks are fully dealt with under " Wim- borne," and on pp. 83-4 under " Walks." The river rises close by the boundary of Somerset and Dorset, flows past Wimborne and Iford, and enters the sea at Christchurch by the same estuary as the Avon. (For particulars concerning boating and fishing in the Avon and the Stour, see pp. 19-20 and 25-7.) CHRISTCHURCH. THERE is an effective contrast between the modernity of Bournemouth, and the ruggedness of Christchurch : the one bright and beautiful in her youth, the other stem and grand in the majesty of age. A place of singular interest is Christchurch with its vener- able Priory and ruined Castle, to whose walls chng the historic associations of eight centuries ; and the character of the scenery lends a touch of enchantment to the situation and surroundings of church and fortress. Close by, the twin streams of the Avon and the Stour, with only a narrow grassy bank separating them, flow to mingle their waters in the neighbouring Christchurch Bay ; around are the fenlike expanses, almost level with the rivers and the sea, where Mr. Hart, a naturalist of more than local fame, made his observations on bird life ; while ten miles away, across the shining Channel, may be seen to the south-east, on a clear day, the projecting rocks of the Needles off the Isle of Wight. Fully as interesting, especially after sundown, is the view from the Channel, when the massive walls and tower of the Priory, rising above the low shores of Christchurch Bay, are silhouetted against the sky. From Saxon times, and perhaps even earlier, a church and town were situated upon these lowlands at the estuary of the Avon and the Stour. In Domesday Book the inmates of the Priory are described as secular canons of the order of St. Augustine, and the name of the church given as Holy Trinity ; while the town was known as Twynham, from its position " between the waters." The earliest historic refer- ence to the town is under the date 901, when the rebellious Ethelv/ald held the Castle for awhile against his kinsman Edv/ard the Elder. At the time of the Conquest the place contained but twenty-one houses, on which a yearly tax of 6d. was paid ; and although in the reign of Elizabeth the population showed but little increase, the ancient borough 115 1 1 6 CHmSTCHURCH owned the dignity of sending two members to Parliament, and continued to do so until the Reform Act of 1832. It is now included in the New Forest Division of Hampshire. The Priory Church. The Priory Church is open to visitors daily in summer from 10.30 to 5.30. Parties are conducted round at intervals. Fee 6d., children ^d. An additional ^d. is charged for the triforia, clerestory, tower, etc. The Priory Church is, of course, the commanding feature of interest in the town. *' It is,'* says Mr. Perkins in his interesting and trustworthy History of Christchurch Priory^ *' one of the finest churches below cathedral rank that is to be found in England. It is a perfect mine of wealth to the student of architecture, containing examples of every style, from its Early English, possibly Saxon, crypt to the Renais- sance of its chantries. Here we may see the solid grandeur of Norman masonry in the nave with its massive arcading and richly- wrought triforium ; the graceful beauty of the Early English in its north porch and in the windows of the north aisle of the nave ; the more fully developed Decorated in the windows of the south aisle of the same, and Perpen- dicular in the tower and Lady Chapel." The crypt is now generally considered to be Norman. The Story of the Foundation affords one of those curious mixtures of legend and fact that lend a touch of romance to the origin of so many of our great historical buildings. Much in the same way, according to the legend, that St. Peter's name was given to Westminster Abbey because of his active interest in the work of its build- ing, so the name of Christ was attached, for equally cogent reasons, to the vast church that was founded near to the estuary of the Avon and the Stour. According to the legend, a site on St. Catherine's Hill, one and a half miles north-east of Pokesdown, and about the same distance north of Christchurch, was chosen for the proposed building ; but every night the work of the preceding day was mysteriously destroyed, and the materials removed to the spot where the church now stands. But the super- natural interposition did not cease even when the strangely- indicated site was chosen by the builders ; for it was noticed that day after day a stranger laboured with the workmen, but was never seen to take his meals with them or to accept Bournemouth. 39 40 CHRISTCHURCH 117 payment for what he did. On one occasion, when a great beam had been cut too short, the stranger brought it to the required length by the touch of his hand. No wonder, then, that the devout and simple-minded ecclesiastics came to the conclusion that the miracle-worker could be none other than the " carpenter's son '* of Nazareth ; and that as Christ had helped in the building it should from henceforth bear the name of Christchurch. The Builder of Christchurch Priory. To turn to the records of fact, the Norman church was commenced towards the end of the eleventh century by Roger Flambard, the infamous Bishop of Durham and prince among builders. By undoubted abihty and amazing energy Flambard had risen in the reign of Rufus from the superintendence of the King's kitchen to the position of Chancellor, Treasurer and Bishop, and was at once the King's chosen friend and most trusted adviser. Christian priest in name only, the powerful Flambard ministered to the greed of the pagan Rufus, and in the Saxon Chronicle of his own time his acts find a lurid record : — " In his days all justice sank, and all unrighteousness arose in the sight of God and of the world. He trampled on the Church of God, and as to the bishoprics and abbacies whose incumbents died in his time, he either sold them outright or let them out to renters, for he desired the king to be the heir of every one, churchman or layman; so that when the king was killed he had in his own hands the archbishopric of Canterbury, the bishoprics of Winchester and SaUsbury and eleven rich abbacies, all let out to farm.** Lax, perhaps, in moral character, Flambard is remembered to-day as one of the greatest of the world's architects ; and the nave of Christchurch, together with the transepts and the apsidal chapel attached to the south transept, ranks with the still grander structure of Durham Cathedral as witness of his genius. He died in 112 8, and his body rests in the great northern Cathedral he planned and founded on the height above the Wear ; while Christchurch Priory helps to pei*petuate his fame. After Flambard 's time, the nave aisles, the north porch and the clerestory of the nave were built in the Early English style ; while at the end of the fourteenth century the rood screen, the splendid reredos, and the Lady Chapel were added. 1 1 8 CHRISTCHURCH The next century saw the building of the western tower and a part of the choir. In the reign of Henry VIII, when so many stately Abbey Churches were destroyed, a petition, which still exists in the Record Office, was addressed to the monarch by Draper, the last Prior of Christchurch, begging him to spare the splendid structure. He dwelt upon the desolation and poverty of the surroundings, and upon the good work done by the clergy in relieving the necessities of the district ; but all .in vain as regarded the existence of Christchurch as an Abbey founda- tion. The Report of December 2, 1539, proved too much for the cupidity of the King : " We found the Prior a very honest conformable person, and the house well furnysschide with juellys and plate, whereof seme he mete fcr the King's majestie is use.'' The Priory adjuncts were destroyed, and the building handed over to the parish as its church, to be served hence- forth by vicars and not by wealthy priors to whom the sick and needy had through the centuries never appealed in vain for comfort and relief. Exterior. The visitor who desires to carry away the most favourable impression of a first view of the building as a whole will do well to turn to the left down Castle Street, just before the terminus of the tram-lines and a few yards from the avenue leading to the Church. The view from the picturesque old stone bridge is particularly effective, showing in one glance the picturesque setting of the noble structure. The Norman keep of the castle is on the right, and nearer still to the bridge are the ruins of a Norman house, with its ex- quisite zig-zag moulded window ; close to the Church the twin streams of the Avon and the Stour, shining and clear, flow to the neighbouring sea ; and beyond are the desolate sand-stretches across which appear, like a band of silver, the curves of Christchurch Bay. The whole picture of rivers, fens and sea, of ruined Castle and majestic Priory Church is one of surpassing interest and charm. Approaching the Church by the avenue, the visitor sees at once the whole north side, with its many striking features, such as the circular staircase, noted for its rich diaper-work, attached to the corner of the transept ; the Norman arcading at the base of the transept ; and the unusually large windows CHRISTCHXTRCH 119 of the choir clerestory, of such width and so closely set together that the whole has almost the appearance of a wall of glass. The Western Tower, a fifteenth-century^ erection, was built into, and not added to, the length of the Church. The west end of the nave was pulled down, and the north and south walls of the lower tower carried up from the inside, thus leav- ing a space at the west end of the two aisles. One space is now used as a vestry. The nave part of the west end is, therefore, a part of the tower, while on each side is the west wall of the older aisles. The North Porch, an entrance worthy of such a church, projects 40 feet from the aisle, and its walls are nearl}^ as high as the clerestory. The outside opening is a thirteenth- century arch, supported on each side by pillars of Purbeck marble ; while the doorway leading into the Church, formed by a double arch, is a beautiful example of Early English work. Above the porch is a chamber, supposed to have been used as a muniment room. The wall of the North Aisle, between the porch and the transept, is in six compartments, marked ofi by Early English buttresses. The round-headed windows of the clerestory are evidences of the Norman character of the wall ; but much of the Norman work, particularly in the arcading, has been hidden by Early English work. The North Transept is, without doubt, the most interesting ■ feature of the exterior. At its north-east comer stands the Norman turret, justly regarded as the architectural gem of the Church. The base consists of an arcade of intersecting arches carried around the whole of the transept. Above this, in the turret, is another arcade, not intersected like the ower one, but consisting of shafts topped by semi-circular arches. A higher stage of the turret is decorated with diaper- work ; and at the top is a further piece of arcading, with round-headed arches. Capping the whole is a sloping stone roof. No architectural work on so small a scale as this beautiful turret pictures so clearly the extreme care of the Norman builders to avoid monotony. Each stage is unlike another, and even the shafts of the three arcaded stages are diverse in pattern. The sam.e striving after variety may be seen in another of Flambard's designs — his masterpiece that crowns the rock overlooking the Wear at Durham. East of the north transept are the Choir, the Presbytery and 120 CHRISTCHURCH the Lady Chapel, built at a later period in the Perpendicular style. A prominent feature in the north exterior wall of the Lady Chapel is the octagonal turret enclosing the staircase to St. Michael's Loft, and rising a little distance above the parapet. The South Transept has on its eastern side a Norman apsidal chapel, with a semi-conical roof and two windows, one Norman, the other Early English ; and at the south-east corner is a circular stair turret, corresponding somewhat to the more interesting turret in the north transept. At the side of the path leading to the north porch is a tombstone bearing a curious epitaph, the origin of which is still a mystery : — " We were not slayne but raysed, raysd not to Hfe but to be byried twice by men of strife. What rest could the living have when dead had none ? Agree amongst you, heere we ten are one. Hen. Rogers died April 17, 1641." A note in a London newspaper of December 7, 1889, sug- gested that, as the interment took place during the Civil War, Cromwell's troops may have dug up the leaden coffins to convert them into bullets, and have re-interred the bodies in one grave. But the writer of the note had forgotten that the Civil War did not begin until more than a year after the date inscribed on the stone ; and, further, it is certain that no Roundheads would have gone to the trouble of digging up coffins when the roof of the Church could provide, far more easily, an abundance of lead. Some think that the bodies of ten men who had engaged on the wrong side in the Civil W^ar may have been exhumed and suspended on trees or gallows and afterwards buried a second time. Another suggestion is that the ten bodies were those of ten ship- wrecked sailors buried in unconsecrated ground near to the place where they were found ; that the Lord of the Manor objected to the unconsecrated burial, and that Henry Rogers, Mayor of Christchurch, directed that the bodies should be placed in the churchyard in one grave to save expense. Interior. On entering the building the visitor has on his right the Baptistery, formed by the interior walls of the tower. In it stands a modern font, fashioned on the model of a Norman one, the fragments of which may be seen in the north choir aisle. Weekes* Monument to Sheiley, the poet, is placed on CHRISTCHURCH 121 the adjoining north wall. The Belfry contains ten bells, the seventh and eighth of which are of the fourteenth century, and the rest a century later, when Henry V was king. The Nave, the work of Flambard, with the exception of the modern roof, is thus described by Mr. Ferre}^ the architect chiefly concerned in the preservation of the Priory. *' It is a splendid example of the later and more decorated style of Norman architecture, in which respect there is prob- ably no building in the kingdom that can vie \vith it. In some points, particularly in the arrangement and ornament of the triforium arches, it greatly resembles Bishop Flam- bard's work of the same age in Durham Cathedral ; in others it reminds us of the IMinster at Peterborough ; but at Christ- church the huge massiveness of the Norman pier is finely reheved by the duplicated semi-columns which face the walls, and are carried up to the clerestory, as well as those of inferior height, from which spring the mouldings of the great arches. The effect produced by the union which these clustered columns form with the lines of the present ceiling is strikingly analogous to that arising from the lightness of the Pointed Style." The nave, ii8 feet long by 58 feet vvdde, consists of seven bays, and the wall space above the semi-circular arches is decorated with " chisel- work " car\dng as a relief to the monotonous appearance of a bare surface ; while the triforium above consists, in each bay, of two arches supported by a central pillar. The most highly decorated bay is the eastern- most on the north side. A staircase at the west of the north aisle gives access to the north triforium, but the south tri- forium can be reached only by climbing a ladder. Of the two aisles, the South Aisle is by far the more in- teresting, because of the fine Norman arcade along its south wall, and of the original Norman \\dndow in the western bay. Here is shown an inscription to one Sally Wilhams, who *' died of grief, aged 79 years." The Transepts contain some good specimens of Norman work. Especially worthy of notice is the arch, with its skilful blending of Norman and Early English work, leading from the aisle into the south transept, which contains a Norman window. There are some of the original Norman windows and arcading in the north transept ; but the large window in the Perpendicular style is a poor specimen of the work of that period. The circular staircase in this transept leads 122 CHRISTCHURCH downwards to the crypt and upwards to a small chamber known as Oliver Cromwell's harness room ; but as he never visited Christchurch, the association is as legendary as most of the desecrations attributed to the Protector. Beneath each transept is a Norman Crypt, measuring about 30 feet by 12. The Choir, 70 feet in length by 21 J feet in breadth, is a Perpendicular structure begun in the reign of Henry VI, and completed in the reign of Henry VH. It is lighted on each side by four large clerestory windows ; but as the window mullions and tracery are continued downwards the whole has the appear- ance of window niches from floor to roof with only the upper part glazed. A fourteenth-century screen separates the Choir from the nave. The ancient carved oak stalls are thirty-six in number, fifteen on each side and six with their backs to the screen. Two date from the thirteenth century ; the others from about 1 51 5. The ends of the seats, the arms, and the upper portion of the backs, are richly, and, in many instances, grotesquely carved, with a seeming absence of reverence not uncommon in ancient church carving. For instance, on the elbow of a stall on the south side is a satire in symbol of a priest and his flock, in the shape of a fox wearing a cowl and preaching to a flock of geese, while a cock mimics the clerk. Upon the same side may be seen a clown intent upon his antics, while a dog is slyly eating the contents of a porridge pot. The misericords are also quaintly carved, but the subjects generally have an allegorical meaning. Among the figures are a pair of devils tempting an angel, and a man with the back part of his dress torn and fastened with a pin. The most striking feature in the Choir is the fourteenth- century Reredos, declared by Professor Parkes to be " the finest in England without exception," although it lacks its former rich colouring, sparkling jewels and silver-covered figures. It is in three tiers, with five compartments in each, and its designs represent the genealogy of Christ and the adoration of the Magi. It should be added that this reredos is older than the Choir, and was probably an addition to the earlier Norman choir. The communion table is of carved oak, made and presented to the church by Pugin, the famous architect. South of the Choir is Flaxman's monument to CHRISTCHURCH 123 Lady Fitzharris, who died in 1 815. To the north of the Choir is the exquisite — Salisbury Chantry, made of Caen stone, a material so durable that the most delicate of its carvings, after the lapse of centuries, remain perfect in outline to this day. Connected with this chantry there is a personal associa- tion of a deeply interesting and pathetic kind. Margaret^ Countess of Salisbury, who erected the lovely chantry as her own resting-place, was the daughter of the Duke of Clarence,, brother of Edward IV. History has hardly a more sad tale to tell than that of the fate that befell the proud Countess and her relatives. Her royal grandfather was slain at Bar- net in 1 47 1 ; her father was murdered by his own brother,, the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III ; her brother and her eldest son were executed for high treason ; and when another of her sons, the famous Cardinal Pole, Dean of Wimborne at the age of seventeen, and in later years Cardinal-Archbishop of Canterbury, published on the Con- tinent an attack on Henry VIII, the royal tyrant turned in fury upon every member of Pole's family within reach. Some were tried and executed, others attainted without trial, the Countess of Salisbury, then over seventy years of age, being among the number. She refused to place her head upon the block, and it was hacked from her shoulders as she stood erect ; and so extreme was Henry's rage that he refused to allow her remains to be laid in her beautiful chantry at Christchurch. She was buried within the precincts of the Tower of London in the " cemetery for traitors " — the dingy red-brick St. Peter's Chapel^ — which inspired Macaulay to the eloquent passage whose closing lines are of local interest to Christchurch :■ — " Here and there among the thick graves of unquiet and aspiring statesmen lie m^ore delicate sufferers ; Margaret of Salisbury, the last of the proud race of Plantagenets, and those two fair queens who perished by the jealous rage of Henry." The remains of the infamous Judge Jeffre^^s, also placed in St. Peter's Chapel, were afterwards removed to a more dignified spot ; but the Salisbury chantry still pleads in its empty grandeur for the stately lady whose bones lie in unhonoured burial. 124 CHRISTCHURCH The North Choir Aisle contains a late Perpendicular chan- try, probably erected soon after the marriage of Henry VII with Elizabeth of York, for the white and red roses painted on the ceiling seem to be in commemoration of the union of the rival Houses of York and Lancaster. At the eastern end are the colours of the old Christchurch Volunteers (1793), interesting as showing the Jack before the Union in the time of George IV. A tablet to the memory of Robert Barnes, by Chantrey, and the tomb of Sir John and Lady Chydioke, with their recumbent figures in alabaster, are other noteworthy features. The knight was slain in the Wars of the Roses, and is represented in plate armour, with shirt of mail, while his lady is habited in fifteenth-century style. The South Choir Aisle contains the Draper Chantry, formed by a screen of Caen marble placed across the east end. John Draper — the second prior of that name — was the last of the Christchurch Priors. He resigned, on compulsion, at the time of the suppression of the monasteries in Henry VIII's reign. Within Draper's Chantry, on the south wall, is a very beautiful piscina, the finest in the church. On the north side of the same aisle is the Harys Chantry, a quaint play upon the family name appearing in the form of a hare and the letters Y S on one of the panels. At the back of the reredos is a processional path, from which, over the arched entrance to the south aisle, may be seen the end of the " miraculous beam," the connection of which with the naming of the Priory has already been told. How the sacred beam came to have a place in the most modern part of the building is not explained. The Lady Chapel, with its altar and reredos under the east window, is a beautiful specimen of Perpendicular work. The reredos is but a fragmentary remnant, a part of it being attached to the wall ; a slab of Purbeck stone forms the altar. North and south of this altar are the tombs of Thomas, Lord West, and Lady Alice West, his mother. Lord West died at the opening of the fifteenth century, and the clause in his will, directing that his remains should be laid in the new Lady Chapel, places this part of the Priory under a late iourteenth-century date. St. Michael's Loft is a plain, low room, over the Lady Chapel, reached not only from the interior but from the exterior by the octagonal staircase on the north wall of the choir. The piscina at its east end shows that it was once a Valentine & Sons, Ltd.,] [Dundee. THE SALISBURY CHANTRY, CHRISTCHURCH. 42 CHRISTCHUIICH 125 chapel ; but from 1662 to 1828 it was used as a grammar school, and subsequently as a private school, closed in 1869. The Norman Castle. On an artificial mound a few yards north of the church stand the remains of the east and west walls of the Norman Keep, about 20 feet high and 10 feet thick. It was built early in the twelfth century by Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon, and after several changes of ownership came into the possession of the Nevilles, Earls of Warwick. Hence the connection with the Priory of Margaret, Countess of Salisbury^ the granddaughter of the King-maker. The Constable's House. Close to the north-east of the keep are the ruins of one of the few specimens of Norman domestic architecture in exist- ence. The house, which was the residence of Baldwin do Redvers, Earl of Devon, to whom the Manor of Christchurch belonged in the middle of the twelfth century, is in the late Norman style, and worthy of attention for its circular chim- ney and the beauty of its zigzagged window arches. The walls are of great thickness and on the ground floor are loopholed for defence. Near the centre of the wall ad- joining the river is a large fireplace connected with the circular chimney. The Hart Natural History Museum. (Open 10 to 5 d ily. Admission is.) Opposite the Town Hall, in the main street, is the Museum containing the fine collection of local and rare birds which has won for Mr. Hart, of Christchurch, an enduring position in the history of British ornithology. The 300 groups of birds, the majority of which belong to the south- v/est corner of Hants between Southampton Water and the Avon, are of extreme interest to the naturalist, and are an eloquent testimony to the knowledge, zeal, and patient industry of the founder of the Museum. For about half a century Mr. Hart has been engaged upon what has been well described as " a very Valhalla of rare and beautiful forms " ; and before ever a tourist visited these regions he was securing his specimens along the flats bordering the Channel, in the- 126 CHRISTCHURCH— BARTON-ON-SEA • depths of the New Forest, on the heaths, and by the water- side of the Avon Valley. Among the rarities in the Museum may be mentioned the bearded tit, now never seen in this country, choughs, for- merly common in the neighbourhood, the nut-cracker with abraded tail feathers, the little egret mentioned in the section of Yarrell's British Birds devoted to herons, and many other specimens of extreme interest to the naturalist. The Museum contains, in addition to the birds, a large col- lection of local fossils, seaweed, mosses, butterflies and moths. For particulars as to Stour and Avon fishing, see pp. 25-7 and 112. BARTON-ON-SEA. This is a small but growing watering-place about five miles -east of Christchurch, having a fine situation in the centre of Christchurch Bay, nearly opposite the Needles. Its air, eulogized by Sir Frederick Treves, is bracing, and there is excellent railway communication with Bournemouth, Southampton and London. The nearest station is New Milton, about one and a half miles north. The accommodation for visitors includes two good hotels. As a centre for hunting and shooting the place has many possibilities, while being near both to the Stour and Avon it finds favour among oarsmen and anglers. The cliffs are geologically similar to those at Alum Bay, in the Isle of Wight ; and, to those interested, the neighbouring Hordle Cliff, with its rich fossil beds, will prove a pleasant hunting-ground. The views from the heights of Barton extend in one direction across Christchurch Bay to Swanage Bay, and in the other to Hurst Castle and the Isle of Wight. For Milford-on-Sea, 3 miles east of Barton, see p. 97. SALISBURY. AN attractive day excursion from Bournemouth is to the pleasant city of SaHsbury. Our purpose is not to give a detailed and elaborate description of the many points of interest in and around the city, but rather to act as a guide to those who leave in the morning to spend a few hours in Salisbury and return the same evening. The direct approach to SaUsbury Cathedral is by the main road from the railway station down High Street, a quaint and narrow thoroughfare, nearl}^ as far as the Market Square, then turning to the right. Passing beneath an ancient Gate we enter the noble expanse of greensward from the centre of which rises the most graceful example of ecclesiastical architecture in the British Isles. In the ancient and now deserted borough of Old Sarum, one and a half miles north of Sahsbury, some entrenchments and a few ruins mark the site of what was once a city of note. Important excavations have revealed many features of the ancient hill-top stronghold which appears to have been deserted for the plain about the year 1220.' But until 1832 the dead city of Old Sarum continued to return two members to Parhament, the election taking place in a field on which the last houses of the "rotten borough" once stood. As much as ^60, coo has been paid for the small estate in order that the owner might have the privilege of nominating two members. The present city is still frequently styled in official documents New Sarum. Salisbury Cathedral. Admission. — Nave and transepts free. Those desiring to see the Choir, Chapter House and Cloisters enter their names in visitors' book and contribute at least 6d. to restoration fund. Open, weekdays, March 25 to September 29, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. ; rest of the year, 10 to 4 p.m. only. Visitors are, of course, not allowed to walk round during times of services. Dimensions. — Height of spire, 404 feet. Total length of exterior, 473 feet ; of nave only, 230 feet. Interior height of nave, 81 feet ; width, 82 feet. 127 128 SALISBURY Services. — Weekdays : 7.30, Matins ; 8, Holy Communion ; 10 a.m., Matins, Choral except Weclne?da>'s ; 11 Thursdays, Holy Communion; 3 p.m., Evensong, Choral except Wednesdays. Sundars ; 7 a.m., ist Sunday, and 8 a.m. every Sunday, Holy Communion ; 10.30, Matins, Litany, Sermon and Holy Communion ; 3 p.m.. Choral Evensong and Sermon ; 7 p.m. short Special Service and Sermon. Before the erection of the present stately edifice, the Cathedral of the diocese was in Old Sarum. It was conse- crated in 1092, and rebuilt soon afterwards in consequence of the earlier church being ruined by a storm. That Old Sarum Cathedral possessed a beauty of its own is proved by the testimony of William of Malmesbury, who declared that its builder had cause to say, " Lord, I have loved the glory of Thy House." Various reasons were given for the change of site — that the hilly situation not only caused the cathedral to be in con- tinual need of repair, but exposed the fabric to the fury of the winds, so that the words of the service were at times difficult to follow ; that the water supply of Old Sarum was inadequate, and that the military in the neighbouring castle were doing their utmost to show that they, and not the ecclesiastics, were the lords of Old Sarum. " What has the House of the Lord to do with castles ? " asked Peter of Blois, in support of the proposal to remove the See from Old Sarum. '* It is the Ark of the Covenant in a temple of Balaam. Let us, in the name of God, descend into the meads. There are rich meadows and fertile valleys abounding in the fruits of the earth, profusely watered by living streams. There is a seat for the Virgin Patroness of our Church to which the whole world cannot produce a parallel." In 1220 the foundations of the present Cathedral were laid. The building was consecrated in 1258, and there seems to have been a final dedication in September, 1260, but the spire was not erected till the middle of the fourteenth century. During the Commonwealth no great injury was done to the beauty of the Cathedral, although the right was obtained by several sects to worship in it at the same hour ; it was in the comparatively recent period of 1790 that the interior was shorn of much of its beauty. Permission was given at that time to Wyatt, the architect, better and more truly known as *' the destroyer," to restore the interior. Screens were pulled down, chapels and porches destroyed ; old stained glass was torn from the windows and thrown into the city o > w H o Q ^ ^ 43 'ff/' Gale & Poldcn, Ltd.,] [London. SALISBURY CATHEDRAL, FROM THE NORTH-EAST. Gale & Polden, Ltd.,] [London, SALISBURY CATHEDRAL : WEST FRONT. SALISBURY 12^ ditch, and when the hideous work was completed by the white-washing of the walls, a dignitary of the Cathedral was able to write to his daughter, " At last we have made the place neat and clean." If further evidence were needed of Wyatt's destructiveness, it is to be found in the fate of the Campanile, 200 feet high, which stood on the north side of the churchyard and housed bells that had been heard at Old Sarum. But the ears of the Dean and Chapter were deaf to all appeals but those for money with which to carry on the work of white- washing and window- smashing, and so in 1790 the Salisbury and Wiltshire Journal contained an advertisement " To Builders, or Persons engaged in building. To be sold, in any quantity, and upon reasonable terms, the materials of a very large Building. ..." The result of the " restoration " has been to give a certain degree of coldness and monotony to the interior ; and Dean Stanley drew a true picture w^hen he said to one of the Salis- bury canons, " You at Sahsbury are all glorious without ; we at Westminster all glorious within." The Exterior. Salisbury Cathedral is generall}^ admitted to rank as the finest specimen of Early English architecture ; and visitors who view its exquisite proportions in a walk by the green- sward will not wonder at the fame it has won. The best aspect of the Cathedral is undoubtedly that from the north- east corner of the Close ; and, to quote the opinion of a leading authority, " the breaking of the outline by the two transepts, instead of cutting up by pinnacles and buttresses, is a master- stroke of art, and the noble central spire crowns the whole composition with singular beauty." Nothing in the whole range of art can possibly be finer than the noble spire, the highest in England, the well-defined conception of aspiring majesty ; and it is the controlling idea of the whole composition. Erected in the purest period of the Early Gothic, all the various parts of the Cathedral are grouped in masterly pyramidal outline ; the long succession of buttresses and pinnacles, the sharp roofs and gables and lofty turrets, combine to lead the eye to the central point, the great spire. All the features of the structure unite in a peculiar lightness and grace, yet grandeur of effect, that place Salisbury in a class of its own among the Cathedrals of England. Bournemouth {{) 130 SALISBURY The West Front is chiefly notable for its many niches, which are being gradually filled with figures. When all are in place they will represent the Te Deum. The Interior. In spite of the degree of coldness to which we have already alluded, arising from the lack of stained windows, the general effect is made impressive by the entire uniformity of the architecture. The vaulting is plainly and boldly executed, rising to a height of 8i feet from the pavement ; and the nave arches are adorned with an effective series of deep mouldings, beneath which the slender columns look still more airy and elegant from their division into many separate shafts of dark Purbeck marble. The roof is of the same material as the walls — a freestone obtained from the Chilmark quarries, situated about twelve miles from Salisbury, toward Hindon village, and still in use. The Nave is divided into ten arches, with a peculiarly beautiful triforium, or open gallery, between them and the clerestory windows above. The windows in the nave aisles are double lancets, while those in the clerestory are mostly triplets, the whole iorming such a profusion as to give rise to the local rhyme : *' As many days as in one year there be, So many windows in this church you see ; So many marble pillars here appear As there are hours throughout the fleeting year ; As many gates as moons one here may view — Strange taJe to tell, yet not more strange than true." The Monuments will well repay attention, for many of them are very striking, particularly those of William Longespee, a son of Henry II (the easternmost on the north side of the nave), Lord Hunger- ford and his wife (next to the foregoing), and the mediaeval efligy of John de Montacute, a Crecy hero (the easternmost on the south side of the nave). Three examples of Flaxman's art, and Chantrey's monument to the Earl of Malmesbury may be seen in the north transept. Here, too, on the west wall, is a bust of Richard Jefferies (184 8-18 87), the naturalist, *'who," says the well-phrased inscription, "observing the works of Almighty God with the poet's eye has enriched the SALISBURY 131 literature of his country and won for himself a place amongst those who have made men happier and wiser." In the south aisle of the choir there is a tomb of exceeding beauty in memory of Bishop Bridport, who died in 1262, Artists still come to Salisbury to study the figures in the Bridport monument. In the Lady Chapel is a monument to Bishop Wordsworth. In the north choir aisle Ues the Rev. John Bampton, a canon residentiary of SaHsbury, the founder of the Bampton Lectures ; and the cloister burial- ground is the resting-place of three last-century prelates' — Denison, the brother of a Speaker of the House of Commons, and an enthusiastic worker for the education of the poor ; Hamilton, who has been described as the model of all a bishop ought to be ; and Moberly, one of the most scholarly divines of modern times. Salisbury Spire. From the top of the battlemented tower, at a height of 212 feet from the ground, the graceful spire, profusely crocketed, and ornamented with sculptured bands of stone, tapers for nearly 200 feet more, so that it is the loftiest as well as the most beautiful in all England. The original design of the Cathedral did not provide for such a crowning work, and it was with the utmost temerity that the builders in 1330 pre- pared to load the supporting piers with hundreds of tons more than they had been expected to bear. Moreover, the marshy soil on which the Cathedral stood being ill-adapted to the support of the solidity usually associated with spires, great ingenuity had to be expended in reducing weight wherever possible, and flying buttresses were added within and without the Cathedral. Even so, such have been the precautions taken that, since Sir Christopher Wren's examination, no fur- ther displacement has developed. The Cathedral Close, beautiful with its mellow and picturesque residences and lofty elms, has walls and gateways built of stone from the ecclesias- tical buildings of Old Sarum. In a niche on the south side of the High Street Gate is a Statue of King Edward VII, unveiled on the day first appointed for his coronation. The figure replaced one of Charles II which had fallen to pieces. 132 SALISBURY The arms of Charles are still on the north side of the gate. The Exeter Gate gives access to the Bishop's Palace, a large, irregular, battlement ed building. St. Ann's Gate is at the head of St. Ann's Street, the site of the combined Salisbury, South Wilts and Blackmore Museums. (Open : Summer 10-5 ; Winter 10-4 ; Fridays and Sundays excepted.) In the Blackmore Museum is one of the most important collections of prehistoric relics. A little lower down is the Joiner's Hall, purchased by the National Trust for Places of Historic Interest and Natural Beauty. It is readily identified by the beautiful carvings on the front. Hard by St. Ann's Street is the thoroughfare called the New Canal. Here is the Halle of John Halle, a wealthy and eminent wool merchant. It was his banqueting-hall and dates from 1470. It is open to visitors. Near the Market Place is the Poultry Gross, mentioned in a deed dated 1335. Opposite is the Haunch of Venison Inn, the interior of which is a fine specimen of the timbered build- ings of the thirteenth century, and the visitor with a love for what is ancient will appreciate having attention directed to the Old George Hotel in the High Street. It was once the chief hostelry. Transferring observations to the environs of the city, we note that only three miles away, to the westward, lies the noble domain of Wilton, standing in a richly wooded park, where Sir Philip Sidney wrote part of his Arcadia. There, too, was the home of the beautiful Countess of Pembroke, to whose memory William Browne inscribed a famous epitaph, part of which may be seen on a small brass plate by the Communion rail in the Cathedral. Still nearer, in the same direction, is the hamlet of Bemer- ton, where lived and ministered George Herbert, the author of The Temple, ** one of those spirits scattered along the track of the ages," wrote Bishop Doane, "to show us how nearly the human may, by grace, attain to the angelic nature.*' It is recorded of him that " he went twice a week to the Cathedral of Salisbury, feeling that the time spent in thought,, prayer and cathedral music elevated his soul and was his heaven on earth.'* It is proposed to place a window in the Cathedral to his memory. ROMSEY ABBEY. THERE is railway communication with Romsey by the Midland and South -Western Railway via Nursling, and less directly by the line from Southampton via Eastleigh to Salisbury ; but those who visit the little town, graced by one of the finest examples of Norman architecture in the kingdom, generally travel by cycle, motor, or horse vehicle, across the New Forest by way of Lyndhurst. Most visitors will gladly put into the box more than the minimum fee of sixpence charged for the services of a guide, when they know that the whole of the fees are used towards that thorough restoration which is so desirable. The thousandth anniversary of the Abbey was celebrated by a pageant in June, 1907 ; the proceeds were devoted to the erection of the porch over the north door. The Abbey is dedicated to SS. Mary and Ethelflaeda, the latter being the granddaughter of King Alfred and first abbess of Romsey. The earliest building was erected in the quiet period won by Alfred in his battles with the Danes after they had sacked and burnt many a splendid religious house ; and fitting was it that the great King's granddaughter should have built this Abbey in Alfred's own kingdom of Wessex and become its first abbess. It was in the reign of Henry I that the building began to assume its present stately proportions, of massive stone work, the older Abbey having been probably a wooden structure ; and it may certainly be regarded as a memorial of the happier days after the Conquest, when the first step was taken in uniting the Normans and Saxons by the marriage of Henry I, son of the Conqueror, with Matilda- — the good Queen Maud, as she is lovingly remembered in the Chronicles ' — niece of Edgar Atheling, and therefore a Princess of the royal Saxon hne. Matilda was living at Romsey Abbey, and Henry I, after seizing the crown at Winchester, hastened to Romsey, there to make his successful suit for the hand of 133 134 ROMSEY ABBEY the Saxon Princess. Soon after this event the present Abbey was built, some think as a thank-offering by Henry I for the blessing of the good wife he had found at Romsey. The Interior. The visitor who enters by the south door and goes to the centre of the nave facing the chancel will see before him almost an ideal Norman Church, the only exceptions to the uniform character of the architecture being the two modern windows in the east end. But he who wishes for a view of the perfect Norman, with no trace of later work to break the harmony of the whole, will stand in the south-west corner of the south transept and look diagonally across the inter- section of choir and nave into the north transept. Then will he understand the aptness of the description which classes Romsey Abbey as " a miniature Durham Cathedral." The Clerestory is an interesting study of transition from the pure Norman of the choir to the Early English of the west end, exhibiting as it does every gradation of arch and moulding over a period of a hundred years. In the South Transept is a handsome recumbent effigy in Purbeck marble, belonging to the thirteenth century. Near to it, and dating from the seventeenth century, is the tomb of John and Grissel S. Barbe. Their family held the neighbouring mansion of Broadlands for two centuries before it became the seat of Lord Palmerston, whose monument in the Market Place commemorates his connection with Romsey. The Choir Screen, one of the oldest pieces of woodwork in the church, was made in the fourteenth century to divide the north transept from the rest of the church. This was done by the advice of William of Wykeham, to provide greater accommodation for the townspeople, who at high festivals were so inconveniently crowded in the space allotted them in the aisle that they sometimes burst bounds and flocked into the ceremonial area. In the wall at the east end of the south choir aisle is a Saxon crucifix, probably dating from about the time of the reconstruction of the earlier Abbey in King Edgar's reign. Behind the altar, in what is known as the Ambulatory, are to be seen two arches that once opened into chapels, dedicated the one to the Virgin Mary, the other to St. Ethelflaeda. They were destroyed at the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The windows that now fill the spaces of the arches date from 45 ROMSEY ABBEY 135 the beginning of the fourteenth century. Some curious relics are displayed in the Ambulatory. At the West End of the Abbey is a modern window, rightly described as "in the perfection of Early English style," in memory of Lord Palmerston, and bearing beneath it the following inscription : " This window was erected by public^ subscription in memory of Viscount Palmerston, who, during fifty years of service as minister of the Crown, laboured for the good of his country and for the benefit of mankind." Close by is a monument to the memory of the founder of the Lansdowne family. Sir William Petty. He was the son of a Romsey clothier, and was born in 1623. Another notable monument here is a poem in stone chiselled by a Romsey medical man. It is a memorial of the sculptor's own little daughter, who is represented asleep on a couch with a broken rosebud in her tiny hand. The Exterior of the Abbey contains a remarkable feature in the tenth-century crucifix outside the west wall of the south transept. The figure on the cross represents not a dead Christ, but a reigning Lord, with eyes open and head uplifted. In the British Museum there is a MS. of Homilies by Archbishop ^Ifric, with a drawing of a crucifix similar in design to that at Romsey. This type was a favourite one for a few years, but it died out at the close of the tenth century. The corbel tables running all round the building are a. curious feature of the exterior. They represent the pro- jecting ends of roof beams, and are carved into heads of fantastic and utterly grotesque creatures. THE NEW FOREST. FEW visitors leave Bournemouth without seeing some- thing of a district so full of interest and varied charm as the New Forest. The journey may be made — as described on p. 98 — by motor-bus or one of the chars-a-bancs which, during the season, make daily circular runs through some of the finest of the scenery, allowing intervals for lunch and tea, and time for rambles in the heart of the woodlands. The nearest station to the Forest is Lyndhurst Road, two miles from Lyndhurst, from and to which a 'bus runs several times a day in connection with the principal trains. There are no regular public conveyances between Brockenhurst station and Lyndhurst, but carriages can easily be hired at Brockenhurst. From Lyndhurst Road Station it is customary in the summer for a motor or other conveyance to start about 11 a.m. for a run through the choicest Forest scenery, the routes varying according to the day of the week. The arrangements are too variable to be set out here, but particulars are advertised in Bournemouth. As, owing to the delightful scenery and the well-kept roads, motoring in the New Forest has become so popular in recent years, a useful purpose may be served by reprinting the fol- lowing letter, sent to the press by the Clerk to the Court of Verderers : — " I am desired by the Verderers of the New Forest, sitting in their Court of Swainmote and Attachment in the Verderers* Hall, at the King's House, Lyndhurst, to bring to the notice of owners and drivers of motor-cars certain special dangers attending the driving of motor-cars through the New Forest, especially at night. " The majority of motorists seem to be unacquainted with the pecuhar conditions of the New Forest. The roads are unfenced because they form part of the area over which Rights of Common are exerciseable ; consequently, ponies, cattle, and pigs turned out by the commoners may at any 136 THE NEW FOREST 137 time be lawfully upon the roads. Moreover, the woods and thickets alongside the roads both shelter and conceal such animals while depasturing near the edge of the roads and upon the grass at the side. They sometimes even lie down upon the roads at night. " Several cases have occurred of such commonable animals, while lawfully depasturing within the perambulation of the New Forest, being run down and killed, especially at night, by motor-cars. " Upon the rapid approach of cars with their dazzling lights, the animals are startled, and try to cross the road, and even run along it in front of a car, bewildered. As the animals are there of right, motorists are answerable to the owners for any damage done, and it should be known that the animals that roam in the forest are, for the most part, the property of small owners, who can ill afford to sustain any loss. " The utmost caution and care, both by day and night, should, therefore, be exercised by the drivers of motor-cars when passing through the New Forest." A Short History of the New Forest. The name " New Forest " is a misnomer, for the woodlands have been in existence for certainly a thousand years ; and long before the Norman era in which it was given the name it still holds, the district was a part of the great forest waste which covered over three-fourths of the country. The popular idea is that the New Forest was the creation of William the Conqueror ; that before his time its area was dotted with peaceful villages, and was great with pasture lands and fields of waving corn ; and that these were laid waste and the flourishing villagers cruelly expelled, in order that the royal hunter and his chosen companions might find sport in chasing the deer. The death of two of the Con- queror's sons — Richard, his youngest born, and William Rufus, his successor — while hunting in the Forest, helped to gain belief in the monkish legends of the misery that followed the planting of these deer preserves. But it is impossible that a great forest could have been created in the few years William was able to give to the work ; and modern researches have shown that the popular idea of the genesis of these beautiful woodlands is altogether mistaken. In the Conqueror's time there were sixty-eight great forests in Englan^, and one of them lay in the south- west of Hampshire. Because this was close to his royal residence, William decided to enlarge its bounds — not by 138 THE NEW FOREST " wiping out " churches and villages, as his Saxon enemies, inspired by national sentiment, declared, but by " afforest- ing," that is, by placing the whole area of existing woodlands under the Forest Laws. So hard were these laws that a man who slew a fellow-creature would be less severely punished than one who killed a deer. The original meaning of the term forest was a ** frith," or a wild stretch of country reserved for field sport ; and in the Saxon Chronicle the land now known as the New Forest is referred to as "a mickle deer-frith." Doubtless before the Norman era the district presented the same features as to-day — wide tracts covered with trees — and here and there vast areas on which nothing Qt)uld grow but gorse or heather, practically as valueless for agricultural purposes as an acknowledged desert. To this day the greater part of it has resisted every reclaiming effort of the husbandman ; and if the modern farmer has failed to convert the New Forest soil we may be quite sure that there never have been here smiling pastures and golden cornfields for the Norman tyrant to turn into a waste. Probably not a tree was planted by direction of the Conqueror ; he simply placed the whole area of woodland and heath, of waste and wild, under the Game Laws, and made it a royal preserve under the name of the New Forest. During the later Norman reigns and the Plantagenet period the rights of the people were invaded by a series of forest boundary extensions ; but at the close of the thirteenth century the limits were reduced to an area about identical with that of the present day. In the time of the earlier Stuarts the Forest suffered much through mismanagement. The keepers having been allowed to cut down trees and sell the timber instead of receiving a salary, the number of grown trees fell from about 130,000 in 1608 to only 2,000 in 1632. As the Royal Dockyards in a measure depended on the New Forest for supplies of timber, an Enclosure Act — the first of its kind^ — was passed in the reign of William III, directing the immediate planting of 2,000 acres, and then of an additional 200 acres annually, until the total amounted to 6,000. A still more extensive planting was carried out in the time of George III. But tree-planting was not always accompanied by good management, and not even the Land Laws were able to pre- vent loss by encroachments. It is a curious fact that if a /. G. Short,] ILyndhurst, BEECH AT MARK ASH. 47 F. G. 0. Stuart,] [Southampton. THE ROAD TO MINSTEAD. /. G. ShorQ [LyndhursU OAK IN queen's bower WOOD. 48 THE NEW FOREST 139 man could succeed in putting up a rough hut in the night- time, and light a fire in it before morning, only a legal process, so difficult as to be rarely attempted, could dispossess him * and once the humble land-snatcher had settled down upon his " estate " he would be small- witted indeed if he did not: find a means, gradually but surely, to enlarge his boundaries. In 1848 a Commission was appointed to remedy matters, one of the measures adopted being the registration of the names and claims of those entitled to Common Rights. These rights are of four kinds : (i ) Common of Mast, or the right to turn out pigs to feed on the beech mast and acorns ; (2 ) Common of Pasture, or the right to use the grass for grazing purposes ; (3) Turbary, or the right to a certain quantity of turf, yielded to Bournemouth in Meyrick Park (p. 60) ; and (4) Estovers, or the right to use wood for fuel. By the New Forest Act of 1877 it was settled that no fresh land should be taken for enclosure ; that the trees should be preserved from the axe of the wood-cutter, and that the Commoners should have the privilege of turning their cattle out all the year round instead of only during the sum_mer months. These Commoners — who to this day greatly value their legal rights — are represented by Verderers, seven in number, who have the right of inquiry into trespasses, encroachments and other breaches of the Forest Laws. The Chairman is nominated by the Crown, and the others are elected by the Commoners by open voting. The Verderers' Court is held at Lyndhurst, which may be regarded as the capital of the New Forest — the Court still going by its ancient name of the Swainmote, a Saxon term in existence long before the Norman Conquest. The Forest became national property at the accession of Queen Victoria, when, on the settlement of the Civil List, it was no longer held as an hereditary possession of the Crown. The late War led to the felling of timber to the value of hundreds of thousands of pounds. To repair the loss, it will be necessary to plant extensively for several years. The trees were felled by Canadian lumbermen and the local foresters. The trunks and limbs were cut into lengths suitable for the purposes for which they were required and the prepared tim- ber was then removed by Portuguese labourers and German prisoners. A gigantic circular saw used by the Canadians was a marvel to the dwellers in the countryside. Birch wood from the Forest formed an essential part of 140 THE NEW FOREST the gas masks worn by our troops ; New Forest charcoal was the fuel used to give warmth in the trenches, and from the Forest was collected much moss for surgical bandaging. The Area of the Forest is 92,365 acres, of which about 65,000 acres, or rather more than 100 square miles, is national property. Its length from north to south is twenty-one miles, and its extreme breadth twelve miles. It reaches to Wiltshire on the north, and approaches the Solent on the south. Roughly speaking, the Avon forms its western boundary, while on the east it extends to within two miles of Southampton Water. The principal Trees are the oak, beech, birch and ash, but the pine, alder, chestnut and hazel are common. Elm trees are rarely found. Ivies and hollies flourish in the neighbour- hood of Lyndhurst. In some of the old woods the wild apple and wild cherry are abundant, lending with their blossoms an additional beauty to the scenery in the month of May. The blackthorn, or wild plum, whose fruit is made into sloe gin, grows freely in some parts. Characteristics of the Scenery. The visitor who takes the word " forest " in its ordinary acceptance as meaning wooded land, will be surprised to find in the New Forest immense tracts almost destitute of trees. But the term signified in ancient days " a vast uncultivated expanse," and even in comparatively modern dictionaries this definition of a forest is preserved (see also p. 138). This beautiful district consists of a great heath, with here and there a mass of woodland ; and its chief charm lies in the variety of scenery afforded by the wild heaths, bright in the season with the gorse and the heath flower, the distant sweeps of the rich surrounding landscape, and the deep woods that here and there for miles dip into the hollows and clothe the gently rising ground. The best known of these woods are -Knlghtwood, famous for its giant oak ; the wild and beautiful Sloden Enclosure, where there are hundreds of yew trees ; Mark Ash, whose beauty has been described by many an eloquent pen ; and Boldrewood, the most familiar part of the Forest to visitors from Bournemouth, and the frequent Tesort of picnic parties. THE NEW FOREST 141 Bogs are common in places, and there are large ponds, or miniature lakes, that at Sowley covering 90 acres. What the characteristics of the district really are has never been better shown than by Mr. Hutchinson, in his excellent book. The New Forest, charming alike for its literary interest and the grace of its illustrations. " Most previous accounts of the New Forest,'* says Mr. Hutchinson, " dwell too much on its sylvan character. . . . The charm and beauty of the whole have not been, and cannot be, exagger- ated ; but the beauty is more that of the heath than of the woodland, so far as a great part of the area is concerned. The most beautiful feature of all is the alternation in certain parts of the one kind of scene with the other." An earlier and not less enthusiastic writer, William Howitt,. has thus discoursed upon the wide heaths and the secluded woodlands of the New Forest : — " Heathery hills stretched away on one side, woods came down thickly and closely on the other. . . . Delighted with the true woodland wildness and solemnity of beauty I rode onwards through the wildest woods that came in my way. Awakening as from a dream, I saw far around me one deep shadow, one thick and continuous roof of boughs, and thou- sands of hoary boles, standing clothed as it w^ere with the very spirit of silence. I admired the magnificent sweep of some grand old trees as they hung into a glade or ravine,, some delicious opening in the deep woods, or the grotesque of peculiar trees, which seemed to have been contorted with inimitable crookedness by the strange genius of the place. "= When the late Mr. Roosevelt, ex-President of the United States, was visiting Britain, he expressed a wish to take a walk through a typical bit of English country-side, and his last day in England was spent in the company of Sir Edward Grey (now Viscount Grey) in the New Forest, of w^hich he often afterwards spoke with great admiration. *' I passed no pleasanter twenty-four hours during my entire European trip." The Literary Associations of the Forest are dealt with oix pp. 45-6. The Principal Streams of the Forest are the Lymington River, which flows by Brocken-^ hurst and Boldre, and after a course of fourteen miles enters 142 THE NEW FOREST the Solent at Lymington ; and the Exe (sometimes known as the Beaulieu River), which rises near Lyndhurst Racecourse, winds along the borders of the Forest for ten miles, and also enters the Solent. There is no better way of seeing the little-explored and often the most lovely parts of the New Forest than by leaving the beaten track and following the course of some stream, such as the Lymington River. Dr. Wise, one of the highest authorities on Hampshire scenery. Writes : " Make a stream your friend and companion, and go wherever it goes. It will be sure to take you through the greenest valleys, and past the thickest woods, and under the largest trees." The Wild Animals of the New Forest include the deer, which, formerly plentiful, are now only preserved for the sake of " Auld lang syne." They were destined for destruction by the Deer Removal Act of 1 851 ; but a few escaped, and their descendants have now the privilege of being regularly hunted, the bucks in the spring and autumn, the does in the winter. Hares, rabbits and squirrels are plentiful, as also are foxes, beloved by the neighbouring hunters ; and by the streams are some otters, but as these waters are shallow they are not a favourite resort of the otter-hunter. The Domestic Animals that graze in the Forest have some characteristics that give them a special interest to the observer. The Ponies are a peculiar local breed ; and some authorities claim for them an aristocratic descent from animals landed from the wrecked ships of the Spanish Armada. What they lack in speed they make up for in staying powder ; and the verderers are wisely adopting measures to improve the breed with a view to a revival of the demand that once existed for these tough ponies of the New Forest. The colts are collected in August, when the chief fairs are held ; and the sight of a dense, terrified band being driven by a few horsemen across an open space is one to be remembered. Their price as yearlings varies from £Z to ;^io. About three thousand ponies roam over the Forest. For identification their tails are cut in a curious ridge and furrow manner, each commoner having his own pattern. The marking of the ponies and cattle is one of the duties of four agisters or marksmen. THE JSTEW FOREST 143 Like the ponies, the Cows are a breed peculiar to the dis- trict ; hardy, cheap in the rearing, but not profuse milk- yielders. Attempts have been made, although with not much success, to introduce a more valuable breed. The cows wander at will through the Forest during the summer, night and day, returning to their sheds for the morning and evening milking. Hogs roam over the Forest all the year round, returning to the stye each evening for a brief inspection of the contents of their troughs. Donkeys, many of them showing traces of Spanish descent, wander through the woodlands and over the heaths in bands like the ponies, but are not nearly so numerous. Snakes — most of them the harmless ringed variety — are caught in large numbers and sent to the London Zoological Gardens as food for the large cannibal snakes. Needless to say, the Forest is rich in typical EngUsh Wild Flowers ; while among the many fine varieties of Ferns are the Royal Fern, the Hart's Tongue, the Polypody, the Sweet- scented Fern, and the Lady Fern. The Forest, as might be expected, is the home of nearly all kinds of British Birds, and a few are believed to breed nowhere else. Ringdoves, plovers, rooks and golden-crested wrens are numerous, as are several varieties of owls, especially in the Stoney Cross district, not far from Rufus's Stone and Castle Malwood Lodge. Magpies and woodpeckers are frequently seen ; and in the winter swans, geese, ducks and other water-birds are abundant. To the entomologist the New Forest is a happy hunting- ground, for nearly every species of Butterfly and Beetle known in England may be found within its bounds. The population of the New Forest numbers between six and seven thousand, and ranges from local landowners to about seventy gipsy families. The occupations peculiar to the district are charcoal-burning, stripping oak bark, preparing firewood, and rearing ponies, donkeys, hogs and geese. As will be readily imagined, Campers appreciate the Forest. Written permission to make it their temporary abiding-place is freely granted in response to an application addressed to the Deputy Surveyor, at the King's House, Lyndhurst. The Antiquities of the New Forest include a number of sepulchral Barrows ranging from lo to 400 yards in circumference, and from 2 to 40 feet in height. 144 LYNDHUBST The largest one, Black Bar, is close to Linwood Coppice, about six miles south-west of Rufus's Stone. Openings made in these mounds have shown signs of cremated human remains. From a barrow on Bratley Plain, four miles south- west of Rufus's Stone, three Celtic urns, now in the British Museum, were taken ; and Mr. Wise, in his book on the New Forest, dates them, because of their thickness, wide mouths, and absence of ornamentation, as long anterior to the Roman invasion. Ancient urns containing coins have been dug up near Lyndhurst, " nails at Cadnam, mill stones at Studley Head, ancient bricks at Bentley, and iron slag at Sloden." There are remains in the Forest of several Roman En- campments, the best-preserved one being in the neighbour- hood of Lymington, and known as Buckland Rings ; although the term is a misnomer, for the shape of the camp is rect- angular. Near to it is a creek, up which the Romans found their way by boats inland. Several Roman relics, now in the Hartley Museum, Southampton, have been found during excavations in Buckland Rings. FOREST RAMBLES. Lyndhurst. The capital of the New Forest, as Lyndhurst is termed, is twenty miles from Bournemouth, the nearest station being Lyndhurst Road. A 'bus from the village meets the principal trains [see also p. 136). Lyndhurst is picturesquely situated in a partial clearing of the Forest, and there is no better centre for excursions in the district. The little village contains' good hotels, boarding-houses and several shops, and in the neighbourhood are many fine residences. It is quite a mistake to suppose, as strangers sometimes do, that, because of its situation in the heart of the Forest, it is primitive in any way. In the season hunting is a great attraction, the New Forest Hunt Kennels being less than two miles north of the village at Brocki's Hill. The Church, a modern building of red brick, relieved with courses of black and white, is in the Early English style, and is specially attractive to visitors because of the fresco at its Bournemouth. 49 50 LYNDHUKST 145 east end, painted by Lord Leighton. This beautiful work has been thus described : — *' The subject is illustrative of the Parable of the Ten Virgins. The central figure, Christ, meek and radiant in a white robe, has on His right the five watchful virgins in different attitudes, with their lamps blazing ; while on the left are the five negligent virgins, abashed and sorrowful, Vvdth their lamps extinct. Certain figures of angels are intro- duced to bring out the full sentiment of the design. To aid the perspective, the scene represented is in a species of por- tico, with slender pillars in the foreground. Advancing up the nave of the church, one is startled with the Hfe-like and truthful character of this marvellous wall-painting. Its soft richness of colouring, its beauty, its fine dra"wdng and grouping, rivet attention." Among other features of interest are the carved flowers on the capitals of the piers, a monument by Flaxman in the north transept, removed from the old church, a fine mural monument in the baptistery, and a small font of exceptional beauty. The handsome wood roof has carvings of angels and archangels. In the village there is also a fine Roman Catholic Church, designed by Sir Arthur Blomfield. Near the church is the King's House, dating from the days of Charles II, and the official residence of the Deputy Surveyor of the Forest. Attached to the house is the Ver- derers' Hall, where the verderers hold their court four or five times a year. Among the decorations of the interior — which may be viewed on application — are some antlers of stags, and an ancient stirrup, said to have been worn by William Rufus on his ill-fated ride through the Forest, Although the poet has sung — ** And still in merry Lyndhurst Hall, Red Wilham's stirrup decks the wall," sceptics in prose venture to assert that the stirrup can claim no earlier date than that of Henry VIII. At the eastern end of Lyndhurst is one of the open spaces, characteristic of the Forest, kno\vn as lawns. Here are the Golf Links (9 holes) of the New Forest Golf Club (visitors, is. per round) ; and the Cricket Ground, the latter said to be one of the best in the country. During the War there was established here a military camp which included BowncnunUh {k) 146 ROUTES FROM LYNDHURST a school for training war-dogs. On the " lawn " is a mound, supposed to be an ancient barrow, surmounted by a clump of trees and a rustic seat. Locally the mound is called Bolton's Bench, from the fact that the first seat was placed there by Lord Bolton many years ago. The picturesque thatched cottages in the neighbourhood of Lyndhurst are among its most attractive features. Lyndhurst to Cadnam (3 J miles). Take the road running northward from about the middle of Lyndhurst main street. On the right is the old race- course, and on the left a hill named Mount Royal by George III during his visit to this neighbourhood, when he stayed at the King's House. About a mile from Lyndhurst the road crosses the Beanlieii River ; and a little beyond, on the left, are the Kennels of the New Forest Foxhounds. A mile farther is Brocki's Hill, commanding a pleasant view. Close to Cadnam, on the right and lying back from the road, is Bartley Lodge, for many years the home of Sir Charles Lyell. Cadnam, situated at the crossing of the roads from Ringwood to Winchester and from Salisbury to Southampton, is celebrated for its Oak, which is credited by tradition with having an untimely habit of budding on Christmas Day. Cadnam to Bramshaw (2 J miles). Leave Cadnam by the road leading westward to Salisbury, and one and a half miles away turn to the right at the Bell Inn, Brook. A mile farther on, situated partly in Hants and partly in Wilts, is the pleasant village of Bramshaw. The cruciform Church, built on a mound, as most of the Forest churches are, is an ancient structure said to have been erected in Norman times. Close to Bramshaw is Bramble Hill, affording fine views of the forest scenery and beyond to the Isle of Wight. Below the hill is the Shepherd's Gutter, noted for the fossils laid bare by the stream that washed av/ay the bed of blue clay. Brook to the Rufus Stone (ij miles). The pedestrian, or cyclist, bent on the pleasant round we are indicating, will return to Brook, and at the Bell Inn note the finger-post which points to Minstead. The road is RUFUS STONE— STONE Y CROSS 147 hilly, and calls for careful riding on the part of cyclists. Branch ways lead off right and left, but the main road is wider than the others and cannot be mistaken. Just before reaching Rufus's Stone, which is situated in Canterton Glen, a turn to the right near a cluster of cottages leads towards the historic mark, which stands, easily seen by those who look for it, on the right-hand side of the path. Although the monument is called a stone, nothing of the original can be seen, for the old triangular stone is now protected by a hollow iron casing on which is the following inscription : — •* Here stood the oak tree on which an Arrow, shot by Sir Walter Tyrell at a stag, glanced and struck King William the Second, sumamed Rufus, on the breast, of which he instantly died, on the 2nd day of August anno iioo. " King William II being slain, as is before related, was laid in a cart belonging to one Purkess, and drawn from thence to Win. Chester, and buried in the Cathedral Church of that city. "That where an event so memorable had happened might not be hereafter unknown, this stone was set up by Lord Delaware, who had seen the tree growing in this place, anno 1745. This stone was repaired by John Richard, Earl of Delaware, anno 1789. "This stone having been much mutilated, and the inscriptions on each of its three sides defaced, this more durable memorial, with the original inscriptions, was erected in the year 1841 by William Sturges Bourne, Warden." In connection with the popular tradition that the body of the king was taken to Winchester by a charcoal-burner named Purkess, it is interesting to know that there are still charcoal-burners bearing that name living in the locality. For further particulars of Tyrrell see p. no. A steep pathway leads from the glen to the Stoney Cross road, and Stoney Cross will be reached on the right after a few minutes' walk. It is higher in elevation than most parts of the Forest, and affords some fine views. Of the prospect from Stoney Cross, Miss Braddon wrote : — " Perhaps the panorama to be seen from the top of the hill at Stoney Cross is absolutely the finest in the Forest — a vast champaign stretching far away to the white walls, tiled roofs, and ancient Abbey Church of Romsey ; here a glimpse of running water, there a humble village nestling in the trees or basking in the broad sunshine of the common.'* In the neighbourhood of Rufus's Stone is Castle Malwoo4 Lodge» for many years the residence of the late Sir William 148 MINSTEAD Vernon Harcourt. Within sight of the house is an iron gate. Passing through it and bearing to the left, the visitor will see a similar gate leading to one of the most beautiful parts of the Forest. Beyond this second gate the road to the right leads to — Minstead, a little more than a mile from Rufus's Stone. The village inn has for its sign a copy of " The Trusty Servant " in Winchester College {see p. i68). A few yards up the road to the right is Minstead Church, a thirteenth-century structure, restored, not in the best of taste, about loo years ago. The charm of Minstead and its surroundings has been well described by Howitt : — *' On one side are open knolls and woodlands, covered with majestic beeches ; on the other the most rustic cottages, almost buried in the midst of their orchard trees, and thatched as Hampshire cottages alone are — in such projecting abund- ance — such flowing lines. As I advanced heathery hills stretched away on one hand, woods came down closely and thickly on the other, and a winding road, beneath the shade of large old trees, conducted me to one of the most retired and peaceful of hamlets. It was Minstead." A continuation of the road from Castle Malwood Lodge leads to Lyndhurst, three miles away. It may also be reached by the public road, a turning to the right at the end of Manor Park, or by a footpath through the Park. The latter walk is exceedingly pretty, though rather difficult to follow ; but if the visitor will avoid branch paths until he is close to the Manor House, and then bear to the right, and to the right again past the stables, after two turnings to the left, he will reach the road leading by the little church of Emery Down to Ljoidhurst. Lyndhurst to the Rufus Stone. Direct Route (4 J miles.) The foregoing trudge is a circular one, embracing several features of interest. Those who wish to walk direct to Rufus's Stone will take the road leading north towards Cadnam, and turn to the left about two miles from Lyndhurst for Minstead. The way from thence will be readily found to Castle Malwood Lodge and the Rufus Stone. F.G.O. Stuart,] [Southampton, BEECHES AT MARK ASH. F. G. O. Stuart,'] Bournemouth, MARK ASH. 51 [Southampton. F. G. 0. Stuart,] [Southampton. AUTUMN LEAVES IN THE NEW FOREST. F. G, O. Stuart,] [Southampton, SPLITTING BEECHES FOR CHARCOAL. 52 MARK ASH~BROCKENHURST 149 Lyndhurst to Mark Ash (3I miles). Leave Lyndhurst at the upper end, and beyond the church turn to the right. On the left side of the road is the Swan Inn, and on the right, facing a green, is the prettily-situated residence, Northerwood Cottage. At the top of the hill is the little village of Emery Down, noted for its fine views over the surrounding country. At the New Forest Inn, a sharp turning to the left leads to the bridge across the Lymington River, and a mile beyond is the road on the left to Mark Ash, famous for its beeches. Lyndhurst to Boldrewood (3^ miles). Instead of turning to left beyond the Lymington River bridge, keep straight on for Boldrewood, one of the most attractive districts in the Forest. In no other part of these always lovely woodlands can such fine trees be seen- — mostly oaks and beeches of great height, and picturesque from their rugged, antique appearance. Among the sights of the neigh- bourhood are two giant oaks known as the King and Queen. Lyndhurst to Alum Green (2 miles). The road is a pleasant one and easily found. It is especially interesting because it is in the direction of the little hamlet of Bank, one of whose houses, Annesley Bank, was the Forest home of Miss Braddon. Alum Green, in the neighbourhood, is one of the many picturesque " lawns " so numerous in the New Forest. Those who care to walk a little farther on will be rewarded by the charm of the Lymington River, winding its way among the trees and heather to the sea at Lymington. Brockenhurst is about four miles due south of Lyn'dhurst, with a good train service from Bournemouth and Christchurch. Until quite lately it was a genuine forest village, but now it is almost a small town, and the opening of the Bournemouth direct line made it an important railway junction. It has two large residential hotels, appreciated not only by summer visitors, but also by those who are drawn to the district by the hunting in the winter. Here the golfer has the choice of two courses : one belongs to the Brockenhurst 1 60 BROCKENHURST— BOLDRE and District Golf Club ; the other has been more recently constructed by the Brockenhxirst Manor Golf Club. There are i8 holes. The entrance fee for gentlemen is 4 guineas, annual subscrip- tion, 4 guineas. Ladies pay half the above sums. Green fee IS. per round. The village also has a flourishing Tennis and Croquet Club, which provides seven lawns for tennis and two for croquet. An open tennis tournament is held in July. Other attractions are provided in the Morant Hall, which is used for concerts, lectures and balls. For these last its oak-panel floor makes it particularly well-suited. During the War the hall was one of the four hospitals which the New Zealand troops had in this district, and through which there passed no fewer than 21,000 men. The Church, about ten minutes' walk from the station, is well worth a visit, not only for the beauty of its approach — down a deep lane banked by ferns — but for its interest to the archaeologist. Of the many churches mentioned in Domes- day Book, it is the only one now standing. The tower and spire are modern, but some parts of the edifice are supposed to be Saxon ; while the nave, south porch and font are un- doubtedly Norman. In the churchyard is a magnificent yew, 1 8 feet in girth. Close at hand is the beautiful Brocken- hurst Park, the seat of Lady Kathleen Morant. Three miles south of Brockenhurst is — Boldre, a village on the banks of the Lymington River. On Vicar's Hill, near Pilley Street, a mile east of the village, lived the Rev. W. Gilpin, the author of Forest Scenery, for many years vicar here. His monument may be seen in the Church, a fine old edifice, the easternmost bays of which are Norman. Another monument is a bust of J. Kemp, the Lymington representative in the Long Parliament. On the exterior of the building is a curious sundial. The rainspout brackets show the old roof pitch. Behind the organ are some curious floorstones, and in the adjoining wall is a scalloped piscina. The Church Register, which dates from 1596, contains the record of the poet Southey's marriage with Catherine Bowles — his second wife. F. G, 0. ifuir^J [Soutnampton. KNIGHTWOOD OAK. Bournemouth, 53 ^^ F. G. O. Stuart,] RUFUS S STONE. [Southampton. Valentine & Sons, Ltd.,] [Dundee. LYNDHURST CHURCH AND THE KING'S HOUSE. 54 THE NEW FOREST 151 It is impossible in these pages to deal completely with the crowd of interests in so beautiful, so varied, and so wide a district as the New Forest. Of course there are special spots, such as Rufus's Stone, to which most visitors will be attracted ; but the real glory of the district will be understood only by the unmethodical who take for a centre such places as Lyndhurst or Stoney Cross, and wander without otner aim than that of letting the imagination be impressed by the wonders of wide sweeping glades, the exhilarating sweep of the wood- encircled heath, and the lovely hollows in which the crystal streams ripple over their shallow courses to the English Channel. WIMBORNE^ WIMBORNE is linked by motor-bus with Bourne- mouth. It can also be reached by rail or by elec- tric tram to Poole, and thence by rail. The tram terminus at Poole is close to the railway station. " A place of deep peace,'* after the gaiety and movement of Bournemouth, is the ancient market town of Wimborne, beautifully situated in the vale of the Allen (formerly called the Wim), a tributary of the Stour, and dignified by a Minster of extreme beauty and interest. The Stour itself is crossed a little south of the station by a picturesque stone Bridge. Below the bridge boats can be hired for trips up and down the river. Close to the bridge, too, is the lodge by which admission is gained to the pretty avenue of limes leading under the railway to Canford Manor and the model village (see pp. 94-5)- The visitor who wishes to proceed directly to the Minster will, however, turn rightward on reaching the main road from the station. The distance is about a mile. To-day Wimborne is an interesting little place, with its dignified old Square ; over a thousand years ago it was a town of repute, the object of many a saintly pilgrimage, the home of kings, and the chosen burial-place of one of the most famous of the early Saxon rulers. Trade, too, had its share with monarchs and devotees in giving importance to Wimborne, for^ until the reign of Charles II, the linen and cloth manu- facturers of the Dorset borough had more than a local fame. But the persecution of the Nonconformists in the time of the Merry Monarch drove from Wimborne her most flourishing traders, and the weaving industry has never since revived. Early in the eighth century, Cuthburga, sister of the West Saxon King Ina, married the King of Northumbria, and like Ethelreda, another Northumbrian queen, and the foundress of Ely Cathedral, she repented of her marriage vows and withdrew to the seclusion of a religious life. The nunnery 152 WIMBORNE 153 which she founded at Wimbome quickly became famous ; and in the next century it was chosen as the last resting- place of King Ethelred, an elder brother of Alfred the Great. When, in Norman times, a new and grander building replaced Cuthburga's simple shrine, the remains of Ethelred were religiously preserved, and their position may be seen to-day beneath the central tower of the Minster. The slab that commemorates his burial in the Minster was placed by the direction of James I. Cuthburga's nunner^^ and church were destroyed by the Danes in the tenth century, and on the site was established by Edward the Confessor a college of secular canons, which existed until the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The last head of the college was the famous and royally descended Cardinal Pole, whose strong opposition to the policy of Henry VIII cost him home and friends, rank and power. Wimborne Minster. Admission to nave free. A charge of 6d. is made to those who are shown the baptistery, astronomical clock, choir, crypt and chained library. The architectural beauty and historical interest of Wim- borne Minster will well repay the journey from Bournemouth. The Minster was built soon after the Conquest ; and although since then many additions and alterations have been made, each successive architect has striven to preserve the main features of the older building. A spire originally sur- mounted the central tower, and its destruction in 1600 has thus quaintly been told by a local chronicler of the time : — " The choire being then full of people at tenne of clock ser- vice, allsoe the streets by reason of the markett, a sudden mist ariseing, all the spire steeple being of a verie great height, was strangelie cast downe, the stones battered all the lead and brake much of the timber of the roofe of the church, yet without anie hurt to the people ; which ruin is sithence com- mendablie repaired with the church revenues, for sacriledge hath not yet swept away all, being assisted by Sir John Hannam, a neighbour gentleman." This spire, it may be remarked, is shown in the corporate seal of the governors. The church is cruciform in shape, and is peculiar in having both a western and a lantern tower, the upper portion of which was restored in 191 4. High up on the north side of the 184 WIMBORNE exterior of the latter is the wooden figure of a man with a bell on each side on which it strikes the quarters. This Quarter Jack^ as it is popularly known, did duty for nearly three centuries in the form of a clergyman ; but some years ago it was made to take the shape of a red-coated soldier, as a reward, say the local wits, for good behaviour. In the area on the other side of the tower is a large stone Sundial, dating from the seventeenth century. The central, or Lantern Tower, a four-storied structure of which the lowest is part of the original church, is built partly of red sandstone from Ring wood. There is a fine Norman arcade on its exterior, dating from near the end of the twelfth century. The upper storeys of the tower cannot be seen from the interior. The restoration of the choir and nave in 1855-7, when the plaster was stripped from the walls, and of the transepts in 1 891, brought to light the original features of the Minster, and justified the inscription cut in stone over a doorway on the north side, " Our Holy and beautiful House where our fathers praised Thee.'* The interior of the Minster is full of interest. In the centre of the Baptistery at the west end, beneath the fifteenth-cen- tury tower, is a Norman font of Purbeck marble, and on the south wall is one of the Minster's many curiosities, an Astro- nomical Clock, constructed about 1325 by Peter Lightfoot, a monk of Glastonbury, the maker of a similar piece of work in Wells Cathedral. The clock represents, according to the astronomical knowledge of the fourteenth century, the sun, moon and stars, revolving round the earth. The sun com- pletes the circuit in twenty-four hours, and by its position marks the time. The moon revolves on its axis in a lunar month, and waxes and wanes by showing more or less of the gilt with which half its surface is covered. The clock has to be wound every day. The Nave, with its columns and arches, presents a picturesque example of the various styles of architecture, from the Norman on through the Transition period and the Decorated to the Perpendicular. Of the six arches on each side the eastern- most are the oldest. The next three, built about 11 80, belong to the Transition period, and combine the pointed arch with the characteristic Norman zigzag moulding. The rest of 55 56 WIMBORNE 166 the arches are of the Decorated period of the fourteenth cen- tury. Mention has already been made of the injury to the roof of the nave caused by the falHng of the spire in 1600 ; and the marks of the old roof left after the re-construction and heightening are still to be seen on the west interior face of the central tower. The North Transept is Norman as far as the turret stair- case leading to the lantern tower ; and the remainder, built in the fourteenth century to form a chantry, is in the Early Decorated style. In the east wall is a Norman altar recess, with remains of a fresco, discovered during the restoration in 1 891 . The large four-light window on the north is peculiarly interesting in its portrayal of the history of Wessex; for Wimborne, in the time of the great Saxon struggle with the Danes, was one of the homes of the EngUsh kings. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle says : " When Alfred died, his nephew seized the royal house at Wimborne, and shut himself up in the town, saying that he would live or die there. But when King Edward (Alfred's son and successor) came near, he fled so fast that he could not be caught." This very interesting window is devoted to Archbishop Dunstan, who was born at Glastonbury in 988. Under his effigy, represented with his emblem, the harp, he is pictured as rebuking King Edgar and being enthroned as Archbishop of Canterbury. King Edward the Martyr figures in the next light, and in one of the panels below his murder at Corfe Castle is depicted. The South Transept, dating from 1220, corresponds in style with the eastern end of the church. On the south side is the oldest piscina in the building, of the Early English period and surmounted by old dog-tooth decoration. The Choir, with its aisles, is a fine example of Early English work, dat- ing from about 1220, the tijne of the building of Salisbury Cathedral. Its most beautiful feature is the east window, which for boldness and elegance of design has rarely been equalled. The misereres are quaintly carved. The elaborate Beaufort Monument in the Presbytery was erected to the memory of John Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, and his wife Margaret, the parents of the Lady Margaret mentioned below. The figures are of alabaster, and it will be noticed that the hands are clasped in token of affection. 166 WIMBORNE In the floor of the choir is a brass recording the burial in the Minster of Ethelred, brother of Alfred the Great. A noteworthy feature of this part of the church is the absence of the rail in front of the Communion table, the place being occupied by forms covered with linen cloths. They are a survival of the seats provided in olden times in monastic churches for the use of the aged and infirm. When the altar was removed at the Reformation, and the Communion table brought into use, the benches were placed as seats for the communicants. According to old custom in the Minster, the clerk used to go to the lectern at the end of morning service and say : *' All who are prepared to receive Holy Communion, draw near. ' ' Then those who intended to remain seated them- selves upon the benches, and the clergy carried to them the elements. Communicants now kneel in front of the linen- covered benches, which are retained for " old time's sake." Another ancient custom religiously preserved in Wimborne Minster is for the verger, wand of office in hand, to steal silently round the church during the reading of the lessons, in this way perpetuating the perambulations of his official predecessors who in olden times walked about during the services for the purpose of administering an arousing tap to any untimely sleeper. The curfew, too, is still rung, and on Shrove Tuesday the " pancake bell '* reminds housewives of their special duty. The North Choir Aisle, or the Chapel of St. George, is in the Late Decorated style, and contains a fine monument in memory of Sir Edmund Uvedale, who died in 1606. In the middle of the aisle were buried two daughters of Daniel Defoe, but the slab which marked their resting-place has disappeared. The South Choir Aisle, or the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, now used for the daily services, belongs to the same period. At its eastern end, Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII, founded a chantry, the piscina of which can still be seen in the south wall. The same royal lady also founded the Gram- mar School in the town, which now bears the name of Queen Elizabeth, in recognition of her generosity in setting aside some of the local land revenues of the church towards the educational maintenance. Under the south-west window of this aisle is another of GaU & Polden, Ltd.,] [London. CHAINED LIBRARY, WIMBORNE MINSTER. Gale & Polden, Ltd.,] THE NAVE, WIMBORNE MINSTER. 57 [London. Photos by] [Valentine & Frith, WIMBORNE. QUEEN Elizabeth's grammar school — the bridge — church HOUSE. 58 WIMBORNE 167 the Minster's several curiosities, generally known as " The Man in the Wall.'* It consists of a raised marble coffin with ela- borate heraldic emblazonments, enclosing the remains of Anthony Etricke, the first Recorder of Poole, and the magis- trate before whom the Duke of Monmouth was brought on his capture after the flight from Sedgemoor. This eccentric character was convinced that he should die in 1693, and caused a marble tomb to be made with that date inscribed in white figures upon it. But he lived until 1703, as may be seen to- day in figures of gold written over the older date. The posi- tion of the tomb under an arch in a niche cut into the wall is explained by the fact that the irate Recorder, being offended with the Wimbome folks, registered a vow that he would not be buried in their church or churchyard. His popularity, however, caused the townspeople to hit upon the happy idea of the niche in the wall, where the body might rest neither in the church nor its surroundings. In the south aisle is a large oak " dug-out " chest, un- doubtedly of Saxon make, and probably dating from the foun- dation of the original church early in the eighth century. It was used as a safe for the relics and holy vessels. The Crypt, originally the Lady Chapel, is reached by a flight of steps under the easternmost pier arch. The Library, approached through the vestry by a turret stair, contains a number of rare volumes, most of which are still chained, as in ancient days, to iron rods. The latter were renewed in 1857, but the chains remain the same as when the library was founded in 1686 by the Rev. William Stone, a native of Wimborne and a minister of its church. This and the similar library at Hereford Cathedral are the largest of the kind in the country. Among the many curious books are a black-letter Genevan Bible of 1595, commonly known as the " Breeches Bible,** from the curious rendering of Genesis iii. 7, and Sir Walter Raleigh's History of the World, a first edition of 161 4. Over a hundred leaves of the latter have been burnt through the middle ; but the holes have been so neatly mended, and the missing words so carefully reinserted, that careful examination is necessary to see the handiwork of the repairer. Both the damage and the mending are attributed to the poet Prior, who was bom at Wimbome in 1664. It is said that while bravely trying one evening to read the book — a task that probably not even the most enthu- 158 WIMBORNE siastic student of history has ever succeeded in accomplishing — he fell asleep, with the result that his candle fell upon the open pages. To remedy the disaster he patiently filled the burnt spaces with fresh paper, and made with his own pen an excellent copy of the destroyed text. ^ Doubt of the accuracy of this interesting story is suggested by the'^fact that Prior left Wimbome ten or twelve years before the library was founded, and still more by the regularity of the holes, which look as if they could only have been made by a red-hot iron. The oldest book in the library is a fourteenth-century manuscript on vellum, written for the use of the priests, and entitled '* Regimen animarum." The visitor will do well on leaving the church to look westward from the end of the choir along the entire length of the building. He will then comprehend the charm which has won for Wimbome such high repute among the stately minsters of England. Adjoining the church and in keeping with it architecturally is the Church House, erected in 1905. A few yards west of the church is Queen Elizabeth's Gram- mar School, founded in 1496 by Margaret, Countess of Rich- mond, and mother of Henry VII, and endowed in 1563 by Queen Elizabeth. It is a fine Tudor building. Both boarders and day boys are received, and an excellent education on modern lines is given. In a place where there is such an air of the past, it is not surprising that superstition should linger, although one would hardly expect any form of it to have official recognition. Yet to gratify the popular prejudice, the authorities, when assigning numbers to the houses, preparatory to the census of 1 91 1, omitted the number 13, so that throughout the town, with one exception which escaped notice, the numbers affixed to the doors run from 12 to 14. While at Wimborne those who have not seen Canford Magna should certainly do so. Return as if for the station, but keep straight along the main Poole Road to the old bridge referred to on p. 152. The entrance to the park (pedestrians only) will be seen a few yards beyond. A pleasant walk along the shady avenue brings one in about a mile to Canford Manor (the seat of Lord Wimborne), with the church and model village of Canford Magna [see pp. 94-5) close by, WINCHESTER. MANY visitors who desire to see something of England's ancient capital find it convenient to break their journey either coming from or returning to London, but the greater number make it the object of an excursion from Bournemouth. The railway route lies first through Christ- church. Not long after the noble grey pile there has faded from view the train speeds into the borderland of the New Forest. Soon the prospect changes as the railway fringes the pleasant shores of Southampton Water ; and northwards there is again a variety of scenery as the River Itchen winds in tranquil beauty by rich meadows and fair villages. The upland on the left is Hursley Down, close to which is the village of Hursley, so long associated with the name of John Keble. Nearing Winchester, we notice below, on the right, the grand Norman Church of St. Cross {see p. 170). A Walk through Winchester. The visitor is usually instructed to enter the city by Sta- tion Road ?.nd Jewry Street ; but we trust the reader wdll favour us by turning to the right along the railed footpath which runs parallel with and just above the railway. This leads to the top of High Street, down which we turn to the left, and are soon able to realize that we are strolling along a street of exceptional interest. The massive West Gate marks the line of the ancient city wall. It is now fitted up as a Museum (open lo-i, 2-5, free), with a most interesting collection of civic and other relics. The contents include a valuable collection of weights and measures dating back to the time of Henry III. Among them is the Winchester Bushel, maide by order of Henry VII in 1485-6. From the battlements is obtained a splendid view of the city, especially of High Street. Leaving the West Gate, take the little turning to the right, which leads to Winchester Castle Great Hall (admission fre^ 930-1 «^^ 1.15-4), the sole survival 159 160 WINCHESTER 1 of the castle of William I, where hangs the veritable Round Table — so the old stories say — at which King Arthur sat with his knights. In front of the table is a notable statue by Alfred Gilbert, R.A. It was in this same Hall that Judge Jeffreys sentenced Dame Alice Lisle to death. The Assize Courts adjoin. Returning to the High Street, and passing West Gate, we quickly understand the reason for the fame of this ancient thoroughfare. There is not a really stately building in the whole street, but a manifest charm exists in its gables and low arcades, its great projecting clock and old-world shops, its fantastic by-roads and the graceful City Cross, with the surrounding houses in picturesque harmony. "Look," writes a literary Canon of Winchester, " at the Piazza, for- merly better called the Penthouses, the houses overhanging the street, the odd gables and barge-boards and rough ridge tiles, and say what Continental city has a more perfect setting for a piece of beautiful architecture such as this Cross." At the bottom of the High Street is a fine Statue of King Alfred — whose capital was Winchester- — placed in celebration of his Millenary in 190 1. A little short of the statue are the Public Library and School of Art, the very fine Guildhall, and the Abbey Park, a small but delightful retreat bordering the river. Visitors with sufficient time should cross the picturesque stone bridge over the lichen and ascend the stiff slope of St. Giles's Hill. From no point can Winchester and its surroundings be better seen. A turning near the foot of the hill leads in a few yards to the quaint Cheesehill Rectory, known as the Oldest House, and to the Great Western station. Returning to the City Cross, we find close to it an archway leading to one of the several stately lime avenues by which the Cathedral is approached. The Cathedral. Admission. — The nave can be freely seen. A fee of sixpence is charged for the choir, transept, Lady Chapel, crypt, etc., and an additional sixpence for ascending the roof and tower. Services daily at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. (no music on Wednesdays) ; Sundays 8, 11, Litany 3.15, ist, 3rd and 5th, Evensong 3.30. Begun by Bishop Walkelyn soon after the Norman Con- quest, added to in the fifteenth century by the famous founder of Winchester College, William of Wykeham, and completed H. W. Salmon,] [Wincfiester, THE REREDOS, WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL. 59 Photochrom Co., Ltd.,] [London. CHOIR STALLS, WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL. ■'-^' "T [^ Valentine & Sons, Ltd.,] CITY CROSS, WINCHESTER. 60 [Dundee. WINCHESTER 161 by the time of the Reformation, the Cathedral remains, in its gradations from pure Norman to the stately grace of the Perpendicular, a superb witness to the devotion and genius of its builders. Owing to the subsidence of portions of the building, exten- sive underpinning was found necessary, and the work was un- ceasinsflv pursued from i go . 5 to 1 91 2, at a cost amounting to TO READERS A GREAT part of the success of this series is due, as we gratefully acknowledge, to the enthusiastic co-operation of readers. Changes take place, both in town and country, with such rapidity that it is difficult, even for the most alert and painstaking staff, to keep pace with them all, and the many readers who so kindly take the trouble to inform us of alterations that come under their notice in using the books, or to draw attention to errors of commission or of omission, render a real service not only to us but to their fellow readers. We confidently appeal for further help of this kind. All such communications will be duly acknowledged and the informa- tion utilized at the earliest opportunity. The Editor. Address — Messrs. Ward, Lock & Co., Limited, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, London, E.C.4, ua,ve cea,i>eu lu iluijj luc umue ui oo-l aicu. x ui lui» loasun bom;^ Ua the ribs and much of the groining must be taken out and rebuilt. The same has happened in the nave, where the outer walls have spread, though not to the same extent as the eastem part, and great cracks separate the groining from the wall in many places.'* Mr. T. Jackson, R.A., the distinguished architect under whose direction the work was executed, thus described the Bournemouth {}) 162 WINCHESTER condition of the building at the time the task of repair was undertaken — *' not a day too soon to prevent a catastrophe.*' *' Built on a wet, compressible soil, it probably began to settle as soon as it was finished, and it has been gradually getting worse ever since. Not a single part has escaped, and it is wonderful that De Lucy's building (the Early English part of the choir), has re- mained standing. The Norman transepts, with their aisles, were cracked and riven in all directions, daylight in places being seen through the fissures, and the nave aisles and their vaults were in a condition almost as serious. There was nothing to be done but to underpin the outer walls almost everywhere, taking the footings down to the hard gravel bed : and the magnitude of the task was somewhat appalling. Never before, I imagine, has it been found necessary to underpin an entire cathedral, and it is unfortunate that this necessity should have arisen in the case of one of the largest in Europe, doubly unfortunate that it should be complicated by the difiiculty of water. "The difiiculty of the task has been very great, and it was only after many tentative efforts that we found out how to get over it. . . . The whole of De Lucy's building had slid eastward about five inches, if not more ; and had also sunk into the soft ground, though not equably, for, the ground being softer the farther you go eastwards, the eastern part sank more than the western, so that the courses of the wall described a curved line, lower at the eastern end than at the western by more than two feet. This movement naturally caused serious dislocation of the vaulting. The walls, especially on the south side, had bulged outwards, the inclination from the perpendicular being in one part as much as two feet in forty- four, and in another place an inch in a foot. The vault thus released by the spreading of the side walk sank, the ribs lost in many cases their arch construction, taking a convex line where it should have been concave ; the panels cracked and bulged, and the whole would have fallen had it not been bolted up." Fortunately, the work has been completely successful and the massive Cathedral now stands more securely than in all the eight centuries since Bishop Walkelyn began his work. Many of the beech logs which formerly supported the east- ward extension of the choir were found, when brought to the surface, to be in a remarkable state of preservation. Souvenirs such as caskets, crosses, paper knives, etc., made from the old wood, are on sale in the city and are much prized by visitors. The proceeds are devoted to the restoration fund. The Nave. The wonder of this mighty Church, which covers a greater area than any other in the land, will cast a spell over one who enters the nave by the west door, and sees stretching in long perspective the joint work of Walkelyn and William 1. Bp. Thomas Langton's Chantry. 2. Bp. Waynflete's Chantry. 3. Cardinal Beaufort's Chantry. 4. Bp. Fox's Chantry. 5. Hardicanute. 6. Richard, youngest son of William the Conqueror. 7. Edred. 8. Edward, eldest son of Alfred the Great. 9. Edmund, son of Alfred. 10. Canute, Rufus, etc. 11. Bishop's Throne. 12. Izaak Walton's Tomb. 13. William Rufus (tradi- tional). 14. Bp. Walkelyn. 15. Jane Austen. 16. Bp. Wykeham's Chantry. Winchester Cathedral, 163 164 WINCHESTER of Wykeham — " a vista of magnificence which, almost like the first sight of the sea or the Alps, impresses itself upon the memory for one's life." Dean Kitchin describes it as the finest and, perhaps, the most simple example of Perpen- dicular work extant ; while Mr. Ferguson, an authority on cathedral architecture, believes that nothing so beautiful can be seen in England or elsewhere. Almost all trace of Walkelyn's Norman work has disappeared from the nave. Wykeham did not destroy the Norman church, but veneered it with Perpendicular panels, mouldings, etc. He cut out the Norman arches of the triforium, and by carrying new work above them formed a clerestory. There are many interesting Monuments in the nave. On the north side, placed on the wall, opposite the arch west of the font, is a brass in memory of Jane Austen, who died at Winchester in 1 817 in a house we shall pass soon after leaving the Cathedral. Above is a memorial window, erected by public subscription in 1900. On the south side, between the fourth and fifth nave pillars from the west end, is Bishop Wykeham's Chantry' — one of the seven beautiful chantries for which this Cathedral is noted. They are really chapels built by bishops in their own lifetime as their last resting-place ; and it is an interest- ing tradition that on the site of his chantry it was the custom of Wykeham when a boy to kneel in prayer. Five bays east- ward is the Chantry of Bishop de Edyngton, the first prelate of the Order of the Garter, another of the many who made additions to the grandeur of the Cathedral. In the next bay is the tomb of Bishop Harold Browne, who in 1890 resigned the office he had filled with such distinction. The West Window is described by Ruskin in his Stones of Venice as " a very perfect example of English Perpendicular." The South Transept, entered from the choir, contains the magnificent cenotaph of the famous Samuel Wilberforce, Bishop of Winchester. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, the effigy being carved by Mr. Armstead. The bishop was buried in the churchyard at Lavington, his seat in Sussex. Leading out of this transept is Prior Silkstone's Chapel, containing a slab in memory of Izaak Walton, who was buried there in 1683. The North Transept, the most purely Norman'^part of the whole building, contains a monumental tomb by Chantrey in memory of Prebendary Iremonger, and a similar memorial of WINCHESTER 165 Sir Red vers Buller, V.C., whose life-like effigy, in full dress uniform and great coat, lies upon a tomb of polished black marble. The figure is the work of an Australian artist, Bertram MacKennel, A.R.A. On the south side, adjoining the choir, in the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, are some singular frescoes of the thirteenth century. At the south- east comer of the transept is the modem entrance to the Crypt, the burial-place of many a royal person of pre-Norman times, whose bones have since been brought into positions of greater dignity adjoining the choir. The Choir, originally Norman, but rebuilt by Bishop de Lucy early in the thirteenth century in the beautiful Early English style then in vogue, is separated from the nave by a carved wood screen with small metal gates, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott. The Bishop's Throne is modern, but the pulpit dates from the end of the fifteenth century, and the altar rails were placed in the reign of Charles I. In the opinion of Mr. T. Jackson, R.A., " in the thirteenth-century woodwork of the choir we have perhaps the earliest — and certainly the most beautiful — stalls in Northern Europe." The Reredos, a splendid example of the best form of Perpendicular work, was. grievously muti- lated and despoiled of the figures in its niches during the general spoliation of architecture under Thomas Cromwell's direction in Henry VIII 's time. Restoration of the reredos by part went on from 1885, and was completed in 1897 by the late Canon Valpy, in memory of his wife, at a cost of ;^2,ooo. The East Window, justly regarded as an example of per- fection in painted glass, was inserted by Bishop Fox early in the sixteenth century. To this prelate we also owe the side screens north and south of the choir. It was Bishop Fox who transferred from the crypt the remains of royal personages buried there, and had them placed in the Oak Chests upon the top of the side screens. Above the north and south screens are elaborately-gilded caskets thought to contain the bones of Kynegils and Kenewalch, respectively first founder and actual builder of the Cathedral, of Ethel- wulph, father of Alfred the Great, of Edward and Edmund, sons of King Alfred, of King Edred, grandson of Alfred ; also the relics of various other Saxon kings as well as of Richard, the youngest son of the Conqueror. 166 WINCHESTER On the north side of the altar is a memorial of Hardi- canute, the last Danish King of England ; and in the middle of the choir a plain pyramidal stone marks the traditional burial-place of William Rufus, whose interment in this sacred spot was, in the opinion of his contemporaries, the cause, as a righteous judgment, of the collapse of the tower in 1107. On the southern side of the reredos is — Bishop Fox*s Chantry, built in the lifetime of its founder early in the sixteenth cen- tury, and regarded as the most ornate of Winchester's chan- tries. Fox was beloved by clergy and citizens for his sweet temper, admired for his wisdom, and respected for his ability as a ruler ; and his own foundation of Corpus Christi, Oxford, remains as a proof of his love for learning. The good bishop was blind for several years before his death, and it was his custom daily to be led into his chantry, there to kneel in prayer or listen to the singing in the choir. He died at Wol- vesley Palace in 1528. A few steps eastward, behind the choir, is — Cardinal Beaufort's Chantry, which rivals in beauty Fox's graceful resting-place. Within is an effigy of Beaufort, a brother of Henry IV, in his Cardi- nal's robes. Of him Shakespeare tells us : ** Oft have I seen the haughty cardinal, More like a soldier than a man o' the church, As stout and proud as he were lord of all, Swear like a ruffian and demean himself, Unlike the ruler of a commonweal." Dean Kitchin writes of this able, ambitious and selfish prelate, whose last will, it must be remembered, is couched in terms of humility and faith : " One cannot look at his effigy, as it lies in his stately chantry, without noting the powerful and selfish characteristics of his face, and especially the nose, large, curved and money-loving. . . . He was the Rothschild of his day. More than once he lent his royal masters enough money to carry them through their expeditions." Bishop Waynflete's Chantry is worthy of attention, if Bournemouth. 6i Levy, Sons & Co.,] L^^S Holborn, E.C. STATUE OF KING ALFRED, WINCHESTER. F. Frith & Co., Ltd.,] THE OLDEST HOUSE, WINCHESTER. 62 [Ketgate. WINCHESTER 167 only for the fame of the prelate as the founder of Magdalen College, Oxford. There are many other features of interest in the Cathedral^ including the Lady Chapel and the remaining chantries, but enough has, perhaps, been indicated for the guidance of the general visitor, who has yet much to see in Winchester and its neighbourhood during a one day's ramble through the old capital of Wessex. The Exterior. There is no grace, as at Salisbury, in the exterior of this Cathedral — so cold, stern and massive ; there is wanting the ornament of Lichfield, and there are no lordly towers as at Canterbury and York ; nor has it the high situation that adds to the dignity of Durham and Lincoln. It conveys simply an impression of rugged strength. The beauty of Winchester is to be seen within, not without. At the south of the west front is a passage called The Slype^ formed in a huge buttress by Bishop Curie in the seventeenth century so that there might no longer be any excuse for using the Cathedral as a thoroughfare to and from the Close. The Slype leads to the site of the Chapter House^ of which the only remains are some fine Norman entrance arches. On the south side of the enclosure, at the end of the line of building attached to the south transept, is the Deanery^ noteworthy features of which are the three pointed arches forming the doorway. Here Philip of Spain lodged on the eve of his marriage with Queen Mary ; and here Nell Gwynne was refused a lodging by Ken, of hymnal fame. Ken must have expected the resentment of Nell's royal lover ; but Charles II bore no malice, for when the bishopric of Bath and Wells became vacant the Merry Monarch asked, " Where is the good little man who refused a lodging to poor Nell ? " and straightway gave him the bishopric. At the south-west angle of the Close, almost opposite the Deanery, is the King's Gate, built in the thirteenth century, and one of the two remaining city gates. On the other side of the gate from the Close will be seen on the left College Street, a thoroughfare hardly inferior to High Street in interest. On the right-hand side is Jane Austen's House, a plain building bearing a tablet inscribed : "In this House Jane Austen lived her last days, and died July i8th, 1817." A little beyond is the entrance to — 188 WINCHESTER Winchester College, founded by William of Wykeham in 1387, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The buildings are mainly around two quadrangles. The outer of these courts, upon which the gateway opens, contains some College residences ; and from it a second gateway gives access to the inner "quad," around which are the school buildings. A flight of steps leads to the Refectory, a hall with a fine roof of carved oak ; and on the same side is the Chapel, a noble pile with exquisite wooden fan tracery in the ceiling and beautiful windows. South of the chapel are the Cloisters, on which walls famous scholars have carved their names, among them Bishop Ken. In the entry of the kitchen is the curious picture of the Trusty Servant, a composite creature described in lines of which the following rendering may be of interest : — " A Trusty Servant's portrait would you see, This emblematic figure well survey ; The Porker's snout — not nice in diet shews ; The Padlock shut — no secrets he'll disclose ; Patient the ass — his master's wrath will bear ; Swiftness in errand — the stag's feet declare ; Loaded his left hand — apt to labour saith ; The Vest — his neatness ; Open hand — his faith ; Girt with his sword ; his shield upon his arm — ' Himself and Master he'll protect from harm." Among other places to be seen within the College is the ancient Chantry Chapel, the east window of which contains the oldest existing portrait of Wykeham. Lower down College Street, on the left, is — Wolvesley Castle, standing in park-like grounds, to which there is free access by the open gateway. The Castle, formerly the residence of the bishops, was built in 11 38, and contains some fine examples of Norman work. Here Matilda, daughter of Henry I, was besieged during her determined attempt to secure the throne bequeathed to her by her father ; and here the unhappy Queen Mary passed the earlier days of her unromantic honeymoon, after her marriage in Winchester Cathedral with the cold-hearted Philip of Spain. Oliver Cromwell turned the once stately castle into a ruin ; but much of interest still remains. Let us return to College Street. A little beyond the Castle ST. CROSS 169 gateway a sharp turning to the right round a wall takes us to the river, by which is readily seen a footpath leading to — The Hospital of St. Cross, approached by a walk of less than a mile along the river- bank, or more directly by the high-road, which, under the name of Southgate Street, leaves the High Street between the City Cross and the West Gate. At the Bell Inn, on the high road, turn to the left. Founded in 1136 by Bishop Henry de Blois, brother of King Stephen, the Hospital of St. Cross is one of the oldest, quaintest and most interesting charitable institutions in the kingdom. Its original object was to support thirteen aged men, and to give a dinner daily to 100 others ; but, in 1445, Cardinal Beaufort added another foundation, which he named " The Almshouse of Noble Poverty," and erected near to the Church the quadrangular rows of buildings which still remain. In time the representatives of noble poverty, known as the Brethren, dispossessed the humble poor of their revenue ; but about the middle of the nineteenth century the Charity Commissioners placed both foundations under the manage- ment of trustees. The foundation of de Blois now has eighteen brethren, and Beaufort's nine. Each foundation also has out-pensioners. Passing through the outer court the visitor comes to the Beaufort Tower, in one of the niches of which may be seen a kneeling figure of the Cardinal. In this tower is the por- ter's lodge, where admission tickets must be obtained. (Open weekdays only from 9 a.m. to half an hour before sunset. The charges are 6d. for one person, is. for three, and from four to ten, i s. 6d. Special terms for larger parties. ) But other than tickets can be had at the lodge ; for those who care to insist upon the observance of a custom that has existed from the time of King Stephen will receive for the asking the Wayfarers' Dole of bread and beer, unless previous applicants have exhausted the day's supply, which is sufii- cient for about thirty persons. On the eastern side of the quadrangle is a sixteenth-cen- tury cloister and on the western side is a row of dwellings known as Beaufort's Houses. The dresses of the brethren on the original foundation of Bishop de Blois have the outward distinction of a long black gown with a silver cross on the left breast, while those on Beaufort's foundation wear a dark 170 ST. CROSS red cloak and not the silver cross. On the southern side of the quadrangle is the Hall, a lofty room containing a min- strel's gallery and other interesting features, and some quaint old chairs and leather drinking jacks. The Kitchen, with its fine array of pewter and old-time roasting-spit, should also be seen, though it is no longer in use. The greater part of — The Church was built by Bishop de Blois in the twelfth century. Care- fully restored by Butterfield, it remains one of the finest examples in existence of Transition Norman. It is a cruci- form structure with a low massive square tower in the centre. The western part of the nave, which is Early English, is re- markable for the massiveness of the pillars, while the chancel is notable for its rich interlaced arcading. As St. Cross stands in the parish of St. Faith the North Chapel has been fitted for service, as a memorial of parishioners who fell in the Great War. The nearest way back to Winchester, for those about to travel by train, is by the main road. Needless to say, there is much more to be seen in Winches- ter than the few special features described in these pages : nor is it without some patriotic shame that we return to Bournemouth without finding our way along Hyde Street to the scanty remains of Hyde Abbey, the last resting-place of Alfred the Great, his queen Elswitha, and his son King Edward the Elder. The only portion standing is a fourteenth- century gateway, now forming an entrance to the Public Recreation Ground. Winchester is one of the English cities with which the Great War led many men from over the seas to become familiar. In its vicinity were several camps, mainly occupied by Americans (of whom 700,000 passed through), Canadians and Newfoundlanders. 63 F. FrUh & Co., Ltd.,] [Reigate. BEAULIEU CHURCH. F. Frith & Co., Ltd.,] [Reigate PULPIT AND EARLY ENGLISH ARCADE, BEAULIEU. 64 BEAULIEU ABBEY. ABOUT four miles south-east of Beaulieu Road Station on the Southampton railway route, and at the head of the estuary of the Beaulieu River, lie the prettily-situated remains of the Cistercian Abbey of Beaulieu, founded by King J ohn in 1 20 4 . It is the only religious building connected with the name of a monarch to whom not much of holiness has ever been credited ; and legends say that it was the terrifying influence exercised by a dream of the last Judg- ment that led to John's solitary benefaction to religious work. Parts of the stone wall which originally surrounded the grounds are still to be seen, heavily mantled with ivy ; and enough was left of the Abbey buildings at their destruction during the period of the Dissolution to give some idea now of their grandeur and extent. Among the interesting features are the Abbot's apartments, now modernized and forming the residence of Lord Montagu ; the Dormitory of the lay-brothers, a large apartment, now called the Domus, converted in 1909 into a dining-room and ball-room ; and some beautiful arches that formed part of the cloisters. These latter have been opened out and restored by the present owner in memory of his father, who, with his wife, was buried beneath the shade of the ruin he loved so well and preserved with such care. The monks' Refectory, a plain stone building, with solid buttresses and a curiously raftered oak roof, now serves as the Parish Church, the original building having been entirely pulled down at the Dissolution, and the material carted away to be used in the erection of Hurst Castle. It will be noticed that the building runs north and south, instead of east and west. The most interesting feature of the church is the stone pulpit, with Early English arcaded staircase, projecting from the wall ; it was used by the brother whose duty it was to read to the assembled brothers at meal times. At the south end of the church is Sykes's tryptych depicting the Crucifixion. The church may be 171 172 BEAULIEU freely seen, but a fee of sixpence is charged to see the lay brothers' dorter, the cloisters, and other parts of the ancient Abbey. Sanctuary at Beaulieu. The Abbey possessed the privilege of Sanctuary. Among those who sought its protection were Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Henry VI ; the Countess of Warwick, who was fourteen years in sanctuary ; and Perkin Warbeck, at the end of his ill-starred attempt to be recognized as the heir to the House of York. Whilst at Beaulieu Queen Margaret was visited by Edmund, Earl of Somerset, Courtenay, Earl of Devonshire, and other lords. When they had decided to raise forces to fight the Yorkist King Edward once more, Margaret quitted her refuge and proceeded to Bath. In the same year the Battle of Tewkesbury was fought. It wiU be remembered that the Lancastrians were routed, the Earl of Devonshire fell on the field, the Earl of Somerset was speedily beheaded as a traitor and Queen Margaret was sent to the Tower, where she remained until ransomed after four years of captivity. The foundations of the ancient Abbey Church have been completely traced and marked. During some excavations beneath the site of the choir remains of a female, encased in lead, were found in front of the high altar. No doubt exists that the body was that of Isabella, wife of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, known to fame as King of the Romans. She was buried at Beaulieu in stately funeral in 1293. A spacious meadow adjoining the foundations of the Abbey Church still bears the name of The Vineyard, and about eighty yards north of the church are remains of the old winepress. At Beaulieu, also, are some ruins of a Hospital of Knights Templar, of even earlier foundation than the Abbey, but now used as farm buildings. When the Abbey suffered with similar institutions at the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the Manor was sold to Thomas Wriothesley, afterwards Earl of Southampton. In the reign of William III it passed into the possession of Lord Montagu by marriage ; while another marriage carried it into the Buccleuch family. In 1884, it was settled by the Duke on his second son, who was created Baron Montagu in 1887. The present owner is the second Lord Montagu. It vdll be remembered that Beaulieu Abbey figures in the opening chapters of Sir Conan Doyle's The White Company. For Index, see pp. 173-6. INDEX Where more than one reference is given, the first is the principal. AgglestonEjThe, 8i Allen River, 152 Alum Green, 149 Angling, 25-27, 112 Annesley Bank, 149, 98 Ame, 103 Austen, Jane, 164,167 Avon Valley, The, 108-14 Avon Village, no Bank, 149 B aimer Lawn, 31 Bartley Lodge, 146 Barton-on-Sea, 126 Bath, 98, II Beaulieu Abbey, 171- 172, 99 Beaulieu River, 142, 146 Bemerton, 132 Bindon Abbey, 10 1 Bisteme Park, no Black Bar, 144 Blackwater Ferry, 84, 96 Blandford, 97, 102 Boldre, 150 Boldrewood, 149, 140, 98 Bolton's Bench, 146 Bonchurch, 91 BoscoiBbe, 64-67, 35 Arcade, 66, 17 Carnarvon Cres- cent Gardens, 66 Chine G-ardens, 65- 66,28, 54 Christchurch Road, 65, 67, 57, 55 Churches and Chapels, 72-7, 54, 55, 56, 66, 21-23 Services, 21-23 Cliff Gardens, 66,28 Derby Road, 67 East Cliff Road, 67 Fisherman's Walk, 66 Gervis Road, 67 Grove Road, 67 Hippodrome, 66, 36 Hospital, 66, 19 King's Park, 62, 28 Boscombe (contd.) — Knyveton Gardens, 67,28 Manor, 66 Manor Road, 67 Owls Road, 67 Pier, 65, 34 Public Library, 66 Queen's Park, 61, 28, 29, 57 Railway Station,35 Sea Road, 66 Bournemouth, 38-77, II Access, 10, 17 Accommodation, 12-13 Aerodrome, 18 Albert Road, 55 Alum Chine, 54,28, 71 Angling, 25-27, 23, 112 Arcades, 17, 55 Art Gallery, 57 Avenue, The, 80 Aviation, 18 Band Perform- ances, 33-34, 63, 65 Banks, 18 Bathing, 18 Bath Road, 57 B eaconsfieldRoom, 57 Boating, 19-20, 23 Bourne Avenue, 55 Bowls, 20, 28, 60, 62 Branksome Chine, 80, 28, 54, 95 Branksome Wood Road, 55 Bungalows, 51-52 Cab Fares, 20-21 Cemetery, 55 Central Public Li- brary, 56, 31 Central Station,5o, 35, 57 Chamber of Trade, 24 Chess, 24 Chines, 53-54 Christchurch Road, 55, 57, 65, 67 173 Bournemouth {continued) — Churches and Chapels, 72- 77, 54, 55, 56, 66 Services, 21-23 Clifi and Sands, 35 CUmate, 41-43, 23 Clubs, 23-24 Coach and Motor Trips, 24, 94-98 Commercial Rd.,54 Concerts, 33, 63, 28 Constitution Hill, 103 Coimty Gates, 80 Coy Pond, 60 Cricket, 24, 23, 56, 60, 61, 145 Croquet, 25 Cycle Routes from Bournemouth, 99-102 To Bournemouth, 10-12 Dean Park, 61, 56, 28 Distances from Boumemouth,2 5 Double Dykes, 70 Drives, 94-98, 24 Durley Chine, 53- 54 East Cliff Drive, 52, 65 East Clifi Hall, 57 East CUff Road, 67 East Undercliff Drive, 51 Excmrsions by Road from Bournemouth, 94-98 Exeter Lane, 54 Exeter Road, 54 Fishing, 25-27, 112 Football Ground, 60 Forest House, 57 Gardens and Parks, 58-63, 27-28 Geological Note, 48-49 Gervis Arcade, 55, 17 174 INDEX Bournemouth (continued) — Gervis Place, 55 Gervis Road, 57, 67 Golf, 28-31, 23, 60, 145, 149-150 Grove Road, 57, 67 Holdenhurst Road, 57,83 Home Sanatorium, 70 History, 38-39 Horseshoe Com- mon, 61, 56, 28 Hotels and Tariffs, 13-16 Hunting, 31 Joseph's Steps, 53 King's Park, 62, 28 Kny veton Gardens, 28,67 Lansdowne, 5^-57 Lansdowne Rd., 57 Libraries, 31, 56 Lifts, 32, 51, 52 Literary Associa- tions, 44-47 Literature and Art Association, 24 Little Durley Chine, 53 Local Government, 32 Lower Gardens, 58-59 Manor Road, 57 Medical Opinion, 42-43 Meyrick Park, 60, 28 Meyrick Road, 57 Middle Chine, 54 Motor- 'Buses, 33 Motor Routes from Bournemouth, 99-102 To Bourne- mouth, 10-12 Motor Trips, 33, 94-98 Municipal College, 56 Municipal Offices, 55 Museum, 57 Music, 33-34, 63 Natural Science Society, 24 Bournemouth (continued) — Newspapers, 34 Old Christchurch Road, 55 Parks, 58-63,27-28 Picture Palaces, 37 Piers, 52-53, 34 Pine Trees, 40-41 Pine Walk, 59, 28 Places of Worship, 72-77, 54, 55, 56,66 Services, 21-23 Pleasure Gardens, 58-59, 27-28 Poole Road, 55 Population, 34 Postal Arrange- ments, 34-35 Post Office, 55 Post Office Arcade, 17, 55 Post Office Rd., 55 Preliminary Infor- mation, 17-37 Promenade, 51 Queen's Park, 61, 28, 29, 57 Rail Motors, 35 Railway Excur- sions, 35 Railway Routes, 10 Railway Stations, 35 Rainfall, 43 Reading Rooms, 31, 62 Residential Bournemouth, 43-44 Richmond Hill, 55 Road Routes, 1 0-12 Rotary Club, 23 Rowing, 24 Royal National Sanatorium, 55 Royal Victoria Hospital, 66 St. Ambrose's Hall, 36 St. Peter's Hall, 36 Sands and Cliffs, 3 5 School of Art, 56 School of Com- merce, 56 School of Domestic Subjects, 56 Bournemouth (continued) — School of Science and Techno- logy, 56 Sea- Front, 50-52 Sea Trips, 85-93,36 Secondary School for Girls, 56 Situation, 17 Skating Rink, 37 Soil, 43 Square, The, 54 Steamboat Excur- sions, 85-93, 36 Sunshine, 43 Suspension Bridge, 54 Swimming, 23 Talbot Woods, 78- 79, 61, 28 Tennis, 36, 24, 28, 60, 62 Theatres, etc., 36- 37, 55 Tramways, 37 Tregonwell, Lewis D.G.,38 Undercliff Drive, 51 Upper Gardens, 60 Walks, 78-84 Water Chine, 53 Water Supply, 43 Westbourae Ar- cade I 7 West Cliff Drive, 52 Westover Road, 55 West Station, 50,35 Wimbome Rd., 55 Winter Gardens, 62-3,28,33-4,54 Winton Recreation Ground, 28, 62, 79 Yachtmg, 37 YelvertonRoad,55 Y.M.C.A., 24 Y.W.C.A., 24 Bramble Hill, 146 Bramshaw, 146 Branksea Island, 103-104 Branksome Chine, 80, 28, 54, 95 Brighton, to, 93 Britford, loi Broadstone Heath,3i INDEX 175 Brockenhurst, i49~5o Brocki's Hill, 146 Brook, 146 Brownsea Island, 103-104 Buckland Rings, 144, 96 Burton, 108-109 Cadnam, 146, 100 Canford Cliffs, 80, 95 Canford Magna, 94, 95, 102, 158 Canford Manor, 94, 95, 158 Carisbrooke Castle, 90 Castle Malwood Lodge, 147, 98 Cheddar, 98 Cherbourg to, 93 Chesil Beach, 93 Christchurch, 115-26, 82, 94, 99, II Constable's House, 125 Fishing, 25-27 Hart Natural His- tory Museum, 125-126 Norman Castle,i25 Priory Church, 116-125 Wick Ferry, 19, 82 Coach Drives', 94-98 Common Rights, 136- 137, 29 Corfe Castle, 88-89, 97, loi County Gates, 80 Cowes, 89-90 Crockford Bridge, 99 Dartmouth, to, 93 Dickens's Birthplace, 92 Do\^^lton, 99, 12 Downton Wick, loi Durlston Head, 87 East Lulworth, 102 East Stoke, loi, 102 Ellingham, 11 3-1 14 Emery Down, 148 Ensbury, 102 Exe River, 142, 146 Farnham, 102, Fern Barrow, 79 Fisherman's Walk,66 Fishing, 25-27, 112 Flag Head Chine, 80 Fordingbridge,ioi,i2 Furzey Island, 104 Geological Note, 48-49 Globe, The Swanage, 87 Golf Links, 28-31, 23, 107, 60, 145, 149-150 Gosport, 100 Green Island, 104 Hamworthy, 106 Ham worthy Bridge, lOI Handfast Point, 86 Hengistbury Head, 82, 70 Heme, 83 Heron Court, 83 Herston, 102 Highclifie Castle, 96 Holdenhurst, 83, 57 Horton, 102 Hotels and Tariffs, 13-16 Hunting, 31 Hursley, 159, n Hurst Castle, 97 Iford Bridge, 83, 19 Isle of Purbeck, 86 Isle of Wight, 89-91 Keble, John, 73,159 Kinson Church, 84 Knightwood, 140 Lisle, Dame Alice, 113 Lulworth Castle, 92 Long Island, 104 Lulworth Cove, 92, 102 L^Ttiington, 96, 99 Lymington River,i4i Lyndhurst, 144-146, 98, 99, II Routes from, 146- 149 L>Tidhurst Road Station, 136 Lytchett Gate, loi Mark Ash, 140, 149 Milford-on-Sea, 97, 126 Milton, 99 Minstead, 148 Monmouth's House, III Moor down, 102 Motoring in New Forest, 136-137 Motor Routes to Bournemouth, 10-12 From Bourne- mouth, 99-102 Motor Trips, 33,94-98 Mount Royal, 146 Moyles Court, 113 Mudeford, 82, 25-27 " Musical Sands,'* Studland, 81 Muscliff, 83 Nautical School, 106 New Forest, 13 6-1 51, 98 Alum Green, 149 Animals, 142-143 Annesley Bank, 149, 98 Antiquities, 143- 144 Area, 140 Bank, 149 Barrows, 143 Bartley Lodge, 146 Beaulieu (or Exe) River, 142, 146 Birds, 143 Black Bar, 144 Boldre, 150 Boldrewood, 149, 140, 98 Bolton's Bench,i46 Bramble Hill, 146 Bramshaw, 146 Brockenhurst, 149- 150 Brocki's Hill, 146 Brook, 146 Butterflies, 143 Cadnam, 146 Castle Malwood Lodge, 147, 98 Characteristics, I 40-1 41 Common Rights, 13^137, 29 Cows, 143 Cricket Ground,i45 Donkeys, 143 176 New Forest {contd.) — Emery Down, 148, 149 Ferns, 143 Flowers, Wild, 143 Forest Laws, 138- 139 . , Golf Links, 145, 149-150 Historical, 137-39 Hogs, 143 King's House, 145 Knightwood, 140 Literary Associa- tions, 45-46, 141 Lodge, 98 Lymington, 96, 99 Lyndhurst, 144- 146, 98, 99, II Mark Ash, 140, 149 Minstead, 148 Mount Royal, 146 Morant Hall, 150 Ponies, 142 Population, 142 Rambles, 1 44-1 51 Reptiles, 143 Ringwood, 11 1- 112, 96, 98, 27 Roman Encamp- ments, 144 Rufus' Stone, 147, 98, 148 Sloden Enclosure, 140 Snakes, 143 Stoney Cross, 147 Streams, 1 41-142 Trees, 140 Verderers* Court, 136-139 Verderers' Hall, 145 Nine Barrow Down, 86 Old Harry Rocks, 86 Old Sarum, 127 Osborne, Isle of Wight, 90 Ower, 100, 103, II Panorama Beach, 80 Parkstone, 106-107 Pokesdown, 70, 35 Poole and the Har- bour, 103-106, 101,20,86,93,95 INDEX Poole Park, 106, 98 Portsmouth, 91-92, 100 Preston, 102 Purbeck Marble, 86 Railway Routes, 10 Redhill Ferry, 84 Rhododendron Plan- tation, 96, 83 Ringwood, 111-112, 27, 96, 98, 100, 102, 12 Roman Encamp- ments, 144 Romsey Abbey, 133- 135, 98, 100, II Round Island, 104 Rufus' Stone, 147, 98, 148 Russel Quay, 103 Ryde, 89 St. Catherine's Hill, 109 Salisbmry, 127-132, 98, loi, 12 Sand Hills, 70 Sandown, 91 Sea Trips, 85-93 Shaftesbury, 102 Shag's Heath, 112 Shanklin, 91 Sheepwash, The, 69 Sloden Enclosure, 140 Somerley Park, 114 Sopley, 109-110, 100 Southampton, 92, 98, 99-100 Southboume, 68-70 South Haven, 105 Southsea, 91-92 Staple Cross, 108, 100 Stoborough, loi Stonehenge, 98 Stoney Cross, 147 Stourpaine, 102 Stour River and Val- ley, 83, 19, 69, 95, 114, 152 Stubbington, 100 Studland, 81, 86, 87 Swanage, 85-87, loi- 102 Talbot Village, 79 Talbot Woods, 78- 79, 61, 28 Throop, 83 Tichbome Estate, 98 Tilly Whim Caves, 87-88 Titchfield, 100 ToUard Royal, 102 Torquay, to, 93 Totland Bay, 89 Totton, 100 Tuckton Bridge, 82 Tuckton Creek, 19 Tyrrell's Ford, no Ventnor, 90-91 Walks from Bournemouth, 78-84 Warmwell Cross, 102 Wareham, 97, loi Westboume, 71 West Holme, 102 West Parley, 84 Weymouth, 93, 102 Wick Ferry, 19, 82 Wilton, 132 Wimborne, 152-158, 102, 95 Wimborne Minster, 153-157, 94 Winchester, 159-170, 98, 100, II Austen, Jane, 167, 164 Cathedral, 160-67 City Cross, 160 College, 168 College Street, 167 Deanery, 167 Great Hall, 159 High Street, 160 Hyde Abbey, 170 King's Gate, 167 King Alfred Statue, 160 Oldest House, 160 St. Cross Church and Hospital, 169 " Trusty Servant," The, 168 West Gate, i59 Wolvesley Castle, 168-169 Winfrith, 102 4 Winton, 79, 62, 28, 102 Wool, 97, loi, 102 Wyche, 103 Printed in Great Britain 6y_ Butler & Tanner, Frame and Loiidoi\, BATH For Health . . and Holiday The Hot Springs of Bath, the only Hot Springs in Britain, rise at a natural temperature of 120°, and yield every day half-a-million gallons of the most highly radio-active mineral w^aters in this country. The extensive Bathing Establishment provides every approved form of balneotherapy, adminis- tered by a thoroughly trained staff. The finest Roman Remains in Britain, literary and historical associations, unique i8th century architecture, beautiful country all around, rich in places of interest. Season : January to December. Full Pro- gramme of Entertainments throughout the year. Illustrated Guide, A ccommodation List and all information from Inquiry Department, The Puw,p Room, Bath, HOSPITAL for EPILEPSY and PARALYSIS and other Diseases of the Nervous System, FCUNDED 1866. THE Committee accept the responsibility ot their office with taith that the charitable will help them to furnish £10,003 annually to provide adequate treatment for 4,C00 pitiable sufferers from EPILEPSY, HEMIPLEGIA, CREEPING PALSY, INFANTILE PARALYSIS, CEREBRAL TUMOUR, GENERAL PARALYSIS, NEURITIS, NEURASTHENIA, and a hundred other disorders of the Nervous System H. W. BURLHIGH, Secret^^ry. BORWICK^ Series, 1923-24] GOOD WATEBPBOOF Ensures a Good Holiday, ELVERYS A 1. STORMPROOF A High-class and Superior Finished ^ Waterproof, Light in Weight, easy to In Fawn, Mole, Navy, &c. All Sizes Stocked. 37/6 Also for Gentlemen same price. SILK WATERPROOFS (Featherweight). All Colours, all Sizes ^ 3i gns. Silk Envelope Case '^ ^ 4/6 Approval. Send Height and Chest Measurement together with Remittance. Goods Sent Return Post. AH Moneys Refundable in full at once. /Established\ Carry /Established\ V I860. ; ELVERYS Elephant House, 31, Conduit St., London^ (One door from New Bond Street). W.l. SECURITY - Jt9,685,437 FIRE Consequential Loss Burglary ACCIDENTS Motor Cars Employers' Liability Live Stock MARINE Head Offices 45, Dale Street, Liverpool. 155, Leadenhall Street, E.G. 3. Chief Administration 5 and 7, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.2. Forwarding Agents', Steamer, anc Railway Directory. INDEX. FORWARDING AGENTS, (fee- Union Transit Co., Glasgow STEAMERS— Blue Funnel Line R.\IL\VAYS PAGE Great Western Railway . . . . . . . . 6 [Southern Railway (L. B. & S. C. Section) . . . . 7 (L. & S. W. Section) . . . . 8 ,, ,, (S. E & C. Section) .. ., 9 Steamer Routes THE BLUE FUNNEL LINE. '-"iS?"*-"- '..^■^ FIRST-CLASS PASSEK'GERS ONLY. SOUTH AFRICA &AUSTRALBA THE FAR EAST Managers, ALFRED HOLT& Co., India Buildings, Liverpool HOLIDAY READING IN THE VEIN OF TRUE HUMOUR. THE BRILLIANT NOVELS BY DORNFORD YATES At all Libraries and Booksellers. Crown 8vo, 7/- net. "Punch " says : — " To give Mr. Yates his due, he is expert in light banter. He can be strongly recommended to anyone who thinks that the British take themselves too seriously." JONAH AND CO. " Another delightful farce. Mirth-provoking upon every page." — Irish Times. ANTHONY LYVEDEN. " Mr. Dornford Yates goes from strength to strength. ' Anthony Lyveden ' is, in every sense of the word, a desirable book in the vein of true humour," — Financial Times. BERRY AND CO. " The book is full of good things, and he is a sad person indeed who cannot appreciate the fun of its episodes and the brilliance of its repartee." — Dundee Courier. THE COURTS OF IDLENESS. *' Mr. Dornford Yates shows himself as a writer of piquant wit, quiet humour, and true pathos — a very rare and notable combination."— Yorkshire Observer. THE BROTHER OF DAPHNE. " A book of incurable frivolity," — Oxford Chronicle. WARD, LOCK & CO., LTD., SALISBURY SQUARE, LONDOK, E.C.4. Forwarding Agents, &c. UNION TRANSIT GO. I Freight Contractors and Insurance Brokers. Shipping, Forwarding and Passenger /gents. Furniture Removers, Packers and Storers. Warehousekeepers and Motor Carriers. REMOVAL!^ Houseiiold uouas Packed, Removed, Shipped, or Warehoused. Foreign and Continental Removals a Speciality. Estimates cover- ing all Expenses from House to House submitted Free of Charge. Removals conducted by Motor Vans when desired. I We are in a position to quote an Inclusive price for the {Removal of Furniture and Personal Effects from or to any part of the World, covering the hire of necessary Furniture Vans or Cases, Cost of Packing, Freight, Insurance, and Delivery at Destination. STORAGE. Wo have Superior Storage Accommodation for Baggage, Furniture, Musical Instruments, Plate, and other Household Goods. Customers can have their Own Separate Room in our Warehouse. Rates quotea on application for the Storage of all Classes of Goods. HOLIDAY TOURS AND CRUISES. W^e shall be pleased to supply, on application, particulars of An J deal holiday Cruise to the renowned Resorts of Portugal, Madeira, and the Canary Islands— THE LAND OF SUNSHINE. Passages Booked and Berths Reserved by all the Principal Steamship Lines at Lowest Rates. GENERAL SHIPPING. Having Agents at All Important Ports, we undertake the Shipping of all classes of Goods, in either Small or Large Consignments, from or to an}' Dart of the World. Through inclusive Freight Rates arranged, covering all charges. DISTRIBUTING OR WAREHOUSING . Import Shipments Cleared, Forwarded, Delivered in City, or Stored in our own Warehouses as may be required by our Customers. Send us your Endorsed Bill of Lading, together with Disposal instructions, and we shall relieve you of all trouble. Motor CaPo Packed, Shipped or Garaged. |W"We are TRANSPORT SPECIALISTS^ & our combination ol facilities enables us to undertake the handhng of all classes of Transport Business on the Best Possible Terms consistent wiw Efficient Service. CHIEF OFFICES- SB^ Argyle Street, Glasgow Telegrams : TcionSAnae * l^'ve Lines. No. 9395 Csntra:. "TRANSIT, GLASGOW." leiep^ones - p^jyate Branch Exchange. 1 22 Gannon St., London, E.C.4 Te'.egrrams : Telephones : "UNITRAN^IT, CANNON, LONDON," City Nos. 9595 & 9596. 34, Castle Street, Liverpool Telegrams : Telephone : "UNITRANSIT, LIVERPOOL." Bank No. t032. See also Our Announcement on back covers of Glasgow, Edinburgh, Highlands & Oban Guides. t 6 Railway Routes HEngHHHEiEiEiHiaaiaiaiaiaHiaiaiaiaHHHEisiiaiaEiHEiJaEiiaEiEiEiHia p Berkshire Buckinghamshire m I CAMBRIAN COAST i Channel Islands I CORNWALL Cheshire la i DEVON Dorset g Gloucestershire m m m m s m Hampshire Herefordshire Ireland | Monmouthshire I NORTH & S. WALES I Oxfordshire Radnorshire Shropshire Somerset Staffordshire Warwickshire Wiltshire Worcestershire For Information respecting TRAVEL ^ FACILITIES to and from the ahove^ write to the SUPERINTENDENT OF THE LINE HI H III H H H E H H III i PADDINGTON STATION, LONDON, W.2. I I H I FELIX J. C. POLE/General Manager. i HHHHHHHIilHiaHiaiaiaHlEliaEHiaHHigHHIiIHHH^ G.W.R. m Railway Routes SOUTHERN RAILWAY LlS.WR. L.aiS.C.R. S.tiCR COUNTRY RAMBLES AMID THE ''LOVELY KENT & SURREY HILLS. // By "Wayside and Woodland ; Field-i^path Rambles over Turf-'clad Do^wns and Heethei*y Commons. An interesting little booklet, "The Surrey Hills," forwarded (post free 1^.) from 'B,' Publicity Department, Southern Railway (L.B. (Si S.C. Section), London Bridge Station, S.E.i. "SILVERY THAMES" VALLEY Delectable Paths in Delectable Scenes. For full details write 'B,' Publicity Department, Southern Railway (L. & S.W. Section), Waterioo Station, S.E.i. EAST 25 Ilfracombe 34, 35, 36, 37 Index 13 PAGE PAGE Inverness 10 Ramsey, I.M. ... ... 53 Isle of Man ... 26, 52, 53 Ramsgate ... 53 Isle of Wight 31, 54 55> 69 Rhos-on-Sea ... 25 Keswick... 37,38 Rhyl ... 53 Leamington ... ... 38 Ryde ... 10 Littlehampton ... 39 St. Ives ... 54 Llandrindod Wells ... 39 St. Leonards ... 33, 54 Llandudno ... 39, 40, 41 Sandown ... 54 London ... 41 Scarborough 54> 55 Lowestoft ... 41 Seaton ... 55 Lymington ... 41 Shanklin ... 55 Lyndhurst ... 42 Sheringham ... 55 Lynmouth 42, 43 Sidmouth ... 55 56, 57 Lynton 43 44, 45 Southampton ... .-. 57 Malvern 45, 46 Southport ... 57 Margate 10, 46 Southsea ... 57 Matlock ... 47 Stratford-on-Avon 57,58,71 Minehead ... 48 Symcnds Yat ... ... 58 Monmouth ... 47 Teignmouth ... 58 Mortehoe 48,71 Tenby ... ... 58 MulHon ... 49 Torquay 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, New Forest 41, 42 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 Newquay 49, 50 Ventnor 10, 69 Norwich ... 51 Weston-super-Mare ... 69 Overstrand ... 26 Westward Ho ! ... 69 Oxford ... 51 Paignton C2 Weymouth ... 70 Penzance ... 52 W^haley Bridge ... 26 Plymouth ... 52 Windermere ... 70 Port Erin 52, 53 Woolacombe .,. ... 71 Portree ... 53 Worcester ... 71 Princetown ... 26 Worthing ... 71 14 Aberystwyth — Ambleside — Barmouth DEVIL'S BRIDGE, Nr. Aberystwyth. " One of the most remark- able localities in the world." — George Borrow. The HOTEL — Personally Managed by the Proprietor and his Wife — is well-appointed and most comfortable. OfiEicially appointed by the R A.C., A.A., &c. The famous Old Bridge.and the Magnificent Water- falls immortalised by Wordsworth, are in Hotel Giounds, and the Views from the Windows are exceedingly Beautiful. Tels., "Hotel, Devirs-Bridge." 'Phone DeviFs Bridge 2. Ambleside-QUEEN'S HOTEL Entirely under New Management. First-class Family, Tourist and Commercial. Every Comfort. Ex. Cuisine & Courteous Service. Elec. Light Throughout. Mod. Tariff. Garage. Appntd. A.A. &M.U. Tel. 13. Mr. & Mrs. J. E. SAVAGE, Resident Proprietors. (Late of Waterhead Hotel, Ambleside.) AMBLESIDE.— FIRST-CLASS. Under New Management^ 'Phone 7. Coaches and Motor Tours. Appointed R-A.C, — A.A.,M.u. T^^t 1 O r< "~ ^ Bus meets "(J tV^^^— ^-"^ Trains, L. &N. W. Rly. ' ^ ' & Steamers. Also WHITE LION HOTEL. 'Phone 14. Proprietor?— M. E. & L. FEIRN. SAji] ;eiiienD. ^■^— - — AM6L£SIDE, English Lakes-DiXON'S WANSFELL TnWFR PRIVATE HOTEL.— Most Central for Visitors and ■ U If tn Tourists. Coaching. Chmbing. Boating and Fish- ing. Motoring. Electric Light Throughout. Every Comfort. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. Listed Hotel for A.C.U. and C.T.C. 'Phone 95. Miss DIXON, Proprietress. Ambleside, Rydal Water-Glen Rothay PRIVATE HOTEL. In Own Grounds. Overlooking Rydal Water. Gem of Lake District. Adjoins property of late Poet Words- worth. Elec. Light. Lounge & Smoke Room. Baths (H. & C.). Dark Room. Boating, Fishing, Bathing. Coaches meet Trains and Steamers and pass the Hotel. 'Phone Ambleside 43. Appointed R.A.C. & A.A. S. E. BEVAN, Proprietor. Ambleside WATE»EDOE HOTEL (Unlicensed). — Old-established. Own Grounds with Lawn ex- tending to edge of Windermere Lake. Pte. Boat Landing. Elec. Light Throughout. Afternoon Teas Served on Lawn. Car for Hire. Parties Catered For. 'Phone 32. Mr. &: Mrs. A. H. TYSON, Resident Proprietors. -Garage for 25 Cars. Cen- tral. Coaching. Climbing. Fishing. Golf. Excellent Cuisine. Parties Catered for. 'Phone 58. CARS FOR HIRE. Ambleside-Garside's Private Hotel. Ambleside-RoMnson's Temp. Hotel, ^^u?L'!?o^:cenS for all Excursions, Coaching, Climbing, Cycling, &c. Parties Catered for. Hot and Cold Luncheons. Teas. BARMOUTH. — Situated in Own Grounds, overlooking Sea. Facing due South. Spacious Lounge. Bedrooms overlook Sea. IVE^SS E^H^kH '""''^orEt. Phone 25. Separate Tables. Golf, Tennis, ft Croquet. Garairc Proprietresi. Barmouth — Bath — Belfast — Bettws-y-coed 15 Barmoutli-Cors-y-geclol & Marine Hotels. -^tl^ei'^'S the Sea, Charges with South-west aspect. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate For Terras, apply to .\rANAGER. k QTJni ATI f}i_ WAVE CREST, Boarding Establishment. Centre of i^uimuuiii Promenade. Home Comforts. Separate Tables. Moderate Terms. Under the Personal Supervision of THE MISSES WTLLIAMS. A^ =^k I THE PULTENEY HOTEL. The Most Palatial Hotel in the Queen of English Spas. Patronised by the most Distinguished Personages. Combines Artist'C Refinement with Homely Comfort, and a quiet atmos- phere of Cultured Repose. South Aspect, and sheltered from N. & E. winds. Luxuriously and Elegantly Appointed. Over 200 Bedrooms. The Pulteney is far famed for its Priceless Collection of Paintings by the Great Masters, and Rare Specimens of Italian and French Sculptures, Bronzes, etc. 'Phone Bath 1281 (3 lines). P. & W. JACKMAN, Managing Directors. ^^ — v y — ■ ># IF — ^m ^ — ^ w — ^m Llufin^. Garage. ^ — ^ 'Z'\£ |^ U Electric Light ThrcTJghcut. Officially Appointed by R.A.C., & T.C. of A. 'Phone 19. D. K. & H. PULLAN, Proprietresses. 1 6 Bexhill— Blackpool — Bognor— Bournemouth _ Golf Bexhiig-HOTEL RIPOSO Links. Facing Sea. joining Phone 472. Telegrams, " RipOSO, BexhiU." Lt.-Col. RONALD GIBB, C.B.E., Proprietor. on Sea Albany Hotel. Finest Position oa bea Front. Central. Convenient for Cooden, Schools, and Golf Links. Tel. No. 121. M. E. SKINNER, Proprietress. BEXHILL-Wilton Court Hotel. l^rtS^JST"' Telephone No. 477 Bexhill. Resident P/oprietor. Bexliill-on-Sea-"NETHER LAGOAN" BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT, Eversley Road. A Comfortable and Reasonable Boarding House, a few minutes from Station, one minute from Sea, and close to Golf Links. Boarding Terms from 2J Guineas, according to Season and Rooms. Mrs, a. S. PLOWMAN. Proprietress. BLACKPOOL.— 5 & 6, Lansdowne Crescent, Facing Sea. Nr. North Pier, all Places of Amusement and Golf Links. „ ■ ^ ... C — «Q»V /^ * ^ plRE E W* R»V HO T-e*- 'Phone 879. Tels., " Empire, Blackpool." Billiards (Full-size Tables). L.ounge, Ball Room, &c. Apply F. ROBERTS. Bognor— SYDNEY HOUSE PRIVATE HOTEL. On Sea Front. First-class Residential. 'Phone 103. BOURN «=IVIOUTH. WIMBLEDON HALL rOMFORTABLE Private ^ Hotel and Boarding Establishment. Magnifi- cent Situation among the Pines. Fine Lounge. Tennis. Billiards. House Well Warmed in Winter. Own Fa: m in New Forest. Terms frcm 3i Guineas per week. Illus. Tariff Free. Telephone 886. Bournemoutli-The Paragon ^'S^^gf.S-ittSli^hed 32 years. Situated within 50 yards of the Cliff, close to the Noted Chines. Steps & Lift to sands quite near. View of the Bay. Golf Links less than i mile away. Cliff well wooded, with sheltered walks. W'ithin 10 minutes of Pier (where Band plays daily) & the Gardens. Surroundings are open & quiet. Full-size Billiard Table. Terms Mod. Tariff on application. 'Phone]075. Miss K. TOM KINS. Prop' ti ess. Bournemouth - BOSCOMBE SPA HOTEL. Overlooking Pine Woods & Chine. Tennis, Bowls & Link? nr. Ex. Cuisine. Mod. Charges. *Phone B'mouth 1147. MANAGERESS. Bournemouth-CRAG HALL ^T.&hm.n. (West Cliff). Terms Strictly Moderate. Mr. & Mrs. HINE, Proprietors. Bournemouth — Bowness — Bridlington — Brighton xy BOURMEMOUTIi Bonrnemoutli-" Silver How," IZ^Z^nl^'^^^S^^. ation. Well Sheltered. Close to ClifEs, Durley Chine, and Winter Gardens, Inclusive Terms from £2 2s. per week. Mrs. HUME. Bowness-on-Windermere-St. Martin's Pte. HoteL Central for Lakes & Pier. Lounge & Smoke Rm. Elec. Light Throughout. Sep. Tables. Garage- Miss E. M. WALTE RS. Bpidlington— MANCHESTER PRIVATE HOTEL. Most Commodious and Up-to- Date Private Hotel on Sea Front. Recently Enlarged & Redecorated. Mag. Sea Views from Public Rooms. First-class Chef. Write for Illustrated Souvenir Tariff. 'Phone i2i. E. & A. GURNELL, Proprietors. on THE BERKELEY 'h'',;;;^:' FINEST POSITION ON FRONT. Between West Pier and Lawns. C^posite King Edward Memorial. All Public Rooms face Sea. Full- size Billiard Table (Thurston). Comfortable Smoking Room. Terms from 4 Guineas. Week-ends from 27/6. Tels., " Berkeley, Brighton.** Thone 5137. - Mr. & Mrs. L. E. HQOKWAY, Proprieton. ff Bright Brighton-" RAVENSWORTK DRIVITF HflTFL 60, YORK road aod 2,. LAHS- rnl Wll I E nu 1 &b| dOWNE road, adjoining. Rjur minutes to Sea. Central Heating. Photographic Dark Room- Own Bathing Tent on Beach. Moderate Terms. 'Phone Hove 8805. Under Personal Supervision of Proprietors, Mr. & Mrs. KEMP. Brighton-FERNDALElSi'ff^r.'k.i.T 23, St. James' Avraitie. — Situated in a Quiet and Select Locality. One minute to Sea and Palace Pier. Special Features : An Excellent Cuisine, Moderate Tarifi, and Maximum of Comfort. Electric Light Throughout. Mrs. L. BAUME. Proprietress. BRIGHTON. PRIVATE HOTEL, EiBg's Boad* — Premier Position on Sea Front, between West Pier & HoveLaaria. BURLEIGH HALL Terms from 3J Gns. Under Personal Supervision of Proprietors. 'Phone 4581. Mr. & Mrs. A. DAVIS. Brighton(H0Y8MANGLEY HOUSE BOARDING ESTAB., 118, Lansdowne Place. Well- appointed & Coinf ortable. Only a few minutes from Hove Sea Front. Large & Lofty Bedrooms. Baths (H. & C). Electric Light Throughout. 'Phone 2330. Series, 1923-24] 2 18 Brighton— Bude ttvltfhtATI^nAllhicrh Boarding Kstab.. Grand Parade.— Centrally DrigillUll UDniJIgll Situated. Near Royal Pavilion and Palace Pier. Good Cooking. Liberal Table. Dancing and Billiards. Telephone No. 6994. Apply PROPRIETOR. Brighton THE LINCOLN 'h".'tVu" Bedford Square. Close Sea Front, between West Pier & Hove Lawns. Comfortable & Reasonable. Gas Fires in all Roonas. Under Personal Supervision of the Proprietresses, The Misses WEBB. BUDE. Grenville Hotel I Opmn all the year round, I ARGEST and only modern equipped Hotel, facing Atlantic. ^ Situated three minutes from North Cornwall Golf Links. Lift to all floors. Central Heating. Headquarters R.A.C., A.A. Spacious Garage. Inspection Pit. Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains. MODERATE TERMS. Apply E. LENARD, MANAGERfess. Wi res : " Grenville, Bude." 'Phone 15 Bud«. BUDE, N. Cornwall . ALFORD HOUSE Boarding Establishment. Beautifully Situated. Adjoining Golf Links, Tennis Courts, Beach, &c. First-class Cuisine. Open all the year round. Personal Supervision. Apply Miss FRANCIS, Prop'tress. itWIE, H. Cornwall.— First-class Family & Touiist] Vasinc Sea. Own Farm Produce. Appointed R.A.C Own Golf Links Free to Visitors. "^Phone 6 Bude. G. BREITOON, Resident Proprietor. iUDE-ERDISTON Boarding Estab. Facing South. Adjoining Golf Links, Tennis Courts, Beach, &c. First-class Cuisine. Electric Light. Moderate Inclusive Terms. '-) (Special Winter Terms). Mild Climate in Winter. Personal Supervision. Car for Hire. GARAGE. Also " PENTARGAJf," Falmouth. Mrs. GEORGE BANBURY. Proprietress. THE WINDSOR BEST FOR THE HOME. BEST FOR THE HOLIDAY. Bude — Budleigh Salterton — Buxton f Bude-"BISMILLAH " „n<^Vn.., First-class BOARDING ESTAB. Adjoining Links. Close to Sea. Tennis. Croquet. Baths (H. & C.). Electric Light. Ex. Cuisine. Under Entirely NtW tVfanagement. Mrs. H. N. GLANFIELD, Prop'tregi. 3ude,NorthGorDwall-NORFOLK HOTEL, Family and Tourist (Unlicensed). Two minutee from Golf Links, G.P.O., and Sea. Central Position, Moderate Terms. 'Buses pass the door to meet all trains. Tels., " Norfolk, Bude." Mrs. GILBERT, Proprietress. BUDLEIQH SALTERTON. ROSEMULLION HOTEL. OVERLOOKING Sea. Near East Devon Golf Links, Tennis and Croquet Club. Good Cuisine. New Dining Room and Lounge. Central Heating. Electric Light. MANAGERESS (Rosemullion Hotel, Ltd.). BUXTON.— PRIVATE HOTEL Listed R.A.C. I DISTANCE TO GOLF LINES. Motor uA Ooftohing Bzouiioiii Arnngtii Indoor EBtortdamtiit. Mr. ft Mn. S. D. dlVT. Boiidml Profritton. 20 Buxton BUXTON (1,000 feet above Sea Level). THE SPA THAT IS DIFFERENT. Health, Romance, Scenery, Entertainment. BRIGHT and BRACING. BUXTON has been famed since the days of the Romans for its Natural Mineral Springs. The Municipality has spared no expense to place the Buxton THERMAL and NATURAL BATH Establishments amongst the foremost in the World. Every Efficient Medical Treatment is available for the Cure of Gout, Rheumatism, Sciatica, Arthritis, CoiitiS and Allied Complaints. There are excellent Sports and Entertainments to be had at the Buxton Gardens and Ashwood Park. Tennis, Bowls, Croquet, Golf (two courses). Opera House, Boating, Motor Tours, etc. Further particulars from H, L, B. PITT, Information Bureau. Buxton. Buxton 21 CRESCENT HOTEL BUXTON. OffleiAlly Appointed Hotel to Royal Aatomobile Clab. Aatomobile AMOobiMoi» Motor Union. A.C.n. and Automobile Touring Club of Amerioa. '^HIS First-class Hotel occupies the best situatioa, w being near the Railway Stations, and connected by Covered Colonnade with the Baths, Wells, Pavilion- Gardens, Opera House, &c. Buxton Golf Lfflks one mile from the Hotel. The St. Ann's Well is immedi- ately opposite the Hotel. Table d'Hote at 7 p.m. in the Splendid Dining Room (one of the finest in the Kingdom). GARAGE. PETROL. Public Dining^ Drawing, Lounge, Billiard, Smoking, and Reading Rooms. ELECTRIC PASSENGER LtFT. Electric Light in all Rooms. EXCELLENT CUISINE. CHOICE WINES AND CIQABI. C. J. SMILTER, Resident Proprietor. T$l9grmphic Address ;— "Ckkscsnt, Buxton." TELEPHONE It. ie, TERMS MODERATE AND INCLUSIVE. 22 Buxton BUXTON. Telegrams t ' Comfortable ' Buxton. Telephone 211 A 212 fuxton. BUXTON HYDRO HOTEL. Official Hotel tm the R.AC,, A.A. and A.CM. TF it is Comfort, Excellent Cuisine and Convenience of Situation choose -■■ the Buxton Hydro Hotel. With over 260 Rooms and Three Large Dining Rooms there is Accommodation for upwards of 400 Guests. If it is Dancing, a Ballroom with one of the Finest Floors in the Country — if it is a "Cure," a Complete Suite of Hydropathic and Electric Baths. Withal, a Moderate and Inclusive Tariff, For. fu/l particulars write for Illustrated Booklet ' A Study In Comfort ' tp THE MANAGER, Enquiry Office, Buxton Hydro Hotel. BUXTON, OLIVER'S HYDRO HOTEL. Ideal Position. c £ Highly Recommended for Catering and Comfort. 3 s Hydro Electric Baths. Electric Light and Lift. Tennis. Golf (Sunday Golf). Garage. Tariff. Central Heating. Official Hotel to tht A.A. & M.U. A. OLIVER. Buxton ^3 BUXTON. ROVE HOTEL OPEN central position, over- looking St. Anne's Well and Baths. Excellent Cuisina and Hotel Comfort. Moderate Inclusive Charges. Garage. ApplyRESiDENT Proprietor. Tels., " Grove, Buxton." 'Phone 7. BUXTON. SHAKESPEARE HOTEL. FAMILY & COMMERCIAL. Established 1711. ENTIRELY RENOVATED. GARAGE. NEW LOUNGE. EXCELLENT INSPECTION PIT. RESTAURANT. CUISINE. Royal Automobile Club Listed Hotel. Telephone 480. W. P. RONAN, Telegrams, " Shakespeare, Buxton." Resident Mamagxk* BUXTON. COURTLEIGM SUPERIOR PRIVATE APARTMENTS. CITUATED on Level. South Aspect. Overlooking *^ Pavilion Gardens. Magnificent Mountain Views. CloM to Pump and Baths. ^ Central Heating. Electric Li|[ht. Redecorated and Refurnished throughout. Spciclfti Winter Terms. Tel. 428. For Terms apply Mrs. M. B. BAILEY, Proprietrbm. BUXTON. r«mp Room. Lift CORB^ -HOTEL PENSION. Electric Litfht. Near B&ths and T*^^^ Delightful Sunay C a rt —. 'Phone 205. Apply-The MlfiM i TT i4 M . Electrical Treatment given on the pfini»«. Buxton - LIMEHURST HOTEL PENSION, MANCHESTER RD. Beautifully Situated. S.W. Asp«ct. Extensive Views. Five mins. fr. Station,. Pavuion, Baths & Pump Room. Large Garden. Sep. TablM. Lounge. Electric Light. Terms Moderate. Telephone 481. Apply Misses DOUGHTY, ProprletnesMj 24 Buxton — Cheltenham — Clevedon BUXTON.— St. John's Road. Oa the Lev«l. South Aspect. Naar Gardons Entrance- Five minutes from Stations. Baths and Shops. THE £^2H piwK!!. HOTlli. Perfect Cuisine. Separate Tables. Specba Winter Terms. Moderate TariC Apply. Miss FORBES. Froprietress. CHELTENHAM. QUEEN'S HOTEL THE LEADING FIRST - GLASS HOTEL IN THE GARDEN TOWN. ^HE Hotel faces the Promenade, and from the Windows commands an uninterrupted view of the Cotswolds. Comfortable Bedrooms. Beautiful Suites. Cosy Lounge. Billiard Room for Visitors only. Electric Light and Lift. First-Class Cooking and Service. Garage for 40 Cars. Private Lock-ups for 20 Cars. Heated, and with Electric Light in Inspection Pits. Petrol and Repairs. Open all NIgilt. The Finest Motoring Centre of England. FamOIIS {cellars of Old Wines. Reasonable Terms. fUephone 913, 914. STANLEY G. R. HOLMAN, Telegrams— "Queen's." Managing Director. AhliltliTlllflTTl— ^^^^'5 PRIVATE HOTEL, i, 2, & 3, Promenade uflCliuUi^U'lii Terrace. Facing Spa and Winter Gardens. Convenient for Colleges. Ladies' Drawing Room. Lounge. Bath Rooms. Tel. 949. Personal Supervision. T. R. TATE, Proprietor. Cheltenliaffl-THE COLWYN ?fr/i^?°e'sfplvf Tx^J-'^tr^l"; Promenade, Colleges. &c. Lofty Rooms, Comfortably Heated. ' ' ^Phone 870. Under Personal Supervision of Miss M. E. CAMUS. OI^EVIEDON. STANCilFF BOARDING ESTAB. Nos. 1 & 2. CHARMING Situ- ation, in Own Gg:oun4s, Dyc;rlooking Bristol Channel and Wcl^h Hills. Terms , Mod. H.&C. Baths. 5 miss. Pier, 15 mins. TfjUnand Links^ - 'Phone 4. ApptyMr.i&^fcs. 4 V. c^ ■ ..^^ iP, J EFF'E RIES. ' '-S*3iBcliff Ha 12 stapdsin same grounds a f^w yards to left. Clevedon — Clovelly— Colwyn Bay 25 Cleyedon-Eastlngton ^J^:s'ys^^. ^T.tfit & Pier. Near Bowling Green. 15 mins. G.W.R. & Light Railway Stations. Cycle Accom. Terms Moderate. Apply Misses WILLIS. CLOVELLY, N, Devon, FIRST-CLASS FAMILY. Enlarged and Redecorated. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Tariff. Accommo- dation all the year round. ^^^^^ ^"^ Telegrams Motor 'Bns Meets Trains at Bideford Station from Hotel From Clovelly 9.45 a.m., 3.B0 p.m. Leaves Bideford Station 11 a.m., 5 p.m. Apply Proprietor, "Bushell, Clovelly." A. E. BUSHELL. THE IDEAL HOLIDAT RESORT FOR WINTER AND SUMMER. " ROTHESAY " Private & Residential Hotel, p«*Sf.*. Estab. 1898. Finest Position on Sea Front. Magnificent Views. Lounge, Smoke & Writing Rooms. Electric Light Throughout. 70 Bedrooms. Visitors can Bathe from House. Near (3) Golf Links. Coaching, Boating, Tennis, Garage. Tels., " Kirkpatrick, Colwyn Bay." Telephone 117. Colwyn Bay^THE OSBORNE "^i^^^ Marine Road. Situated in the Sunniest Part of Colwyn Bay, with Magnificent Views of Sea, 01dColw3m and Mountains. Near Golf Litres, Piers and Pavilion. Every Convenience. Electric Light. Good Cuisine. Separate Tables. Terms Moderate, according to Season. Telegrams, "The Osborne, Cclwyn Bay." Write for Tarifi. Mrs. J. POLLITT. Proprietress. Throufl^hout. '.TablM. Tariff Ml Application Miss W. L. BACKHOUSE. ProprietresK. Rhos-on-Sea(ColwyQBay)-BELVEDERE Boarding Establi$hment.-^^.°^'?^i,a House. Close to Pier, Golf Links, and Sea. Most convenient for Trams to Llandndno and Colwyn Bay. Tariff on application. 'Phone 24Y3. The Misses BURTT and WENSLEY. RHOS-ON-SEA,c.,J^TBay.-'lnishmore'i*d'i^b* Facing Sea & Pier. Close Golf Links. OnPa^^ Frangals. Sep. Tables. Electric Light. 'Phone 161 Colwyn Bay. J» PROPRIETRESS. RHOS-ON-SEA, "b^VT Rhos Point '^'^ SffsftS^S on Sea Front. Balcony facing Sea. Mountain Views. Nr. Golf Links. Pier,&c. Good Cuisine. Sep. Tables. 'Phone 261. PROPRIETRESS. TUE ufiuncnD ^^^'^ ^^^ '^^^ ^^^^ inc niHUOUn best for the holiday «6 Cromer — Dartmoor— Derbyshire — Droitwich CROMER-COLNE GUEST HOUSE. Situated in Own Grounds, three acres, facing South. Tennis. Four minutes to Beach. Garaging for lo Cars. Excellent Stab- ling. Easy distance of three Golf Links and Bowling Green. Electric Light. Separate Tdbles. Moderate and Inclusive Tariff. Telephone 103. Miss A. M. DOWDING, Proprietress. OLDEST E8TABUI8HED FIR8T-GLA8I PRIVATE HOTEL. Unrivalled for Cuislnt and Comfort. Beautifully Furnished. Electric Light. Moderate Inclusive Tarifl. M. NEWMAN, Proprietor. Cromer-SEA VIEW. OVERSTRANDt Wr. Cromar. " The BwitztrUnd of th« SMt Ooait." " OYERSTRAHD " First-class HottL Charmingly Situated In Ow« Grounds, adj. Sea & Beach. midst Finest Scenery en Nor- folk Coast. Five mins. from Ivoyal Cromer Golf Links, * convenient for SheriBrham, W. Runton, and Mundesley Golf Links. Splendid Culslaa. Tennis. Grass & Hard Courts. Golf Nets for Practice oi Tuition. Croquet. Garare with Private Lock-ups. Incni. Terms. 'Phone Cromer IN. Tels.. " Overstrand Hotek Cromer " Dartmoor-PRINCETOWN. FIrtt-clatt PRIVATI HOTEL. Most Cen- tral for Tourists. Centrally Heated. Elec. Light. Baths (H.AC.) . Smoke & Sitting Rms. Personal Supervisi on. Mr. & Mrs. J. R. MARTYR, Proprietors. IMPERIAL HOTEL DERBYSHIRE-Bradshai Edge, Whaley Bridge. ' ^S^ Zbc Sycamores, «" »o*r*« Surrounded by the most Charming Scenery in Derbyshire. Soutlieni aspect. Sheltering under Eccles Pike over i,ooo ft. above sea level. Tennis, Croquet, Golf, Billiards. Moderate and Inclusive Tarifl. 'Phone 46 Whaley. Donglas-IESTLAKE'S " SEA LEVEL," ffipS^rSSi in the Island. Old-established. Highly Recommended. Spaciont Lounge. Passenger Lift. Write for Moderate Inclusive Terns. Douglas, I.O.M.-ELLAS YAHNIN Boardinf Establishment. $i. Loch Promenade. ^ Centeal Position on Front. Liberal Table. Terms on applicatioa. - Mrs. KING, Proprietrew. Droitwich-ST. ANDREW'S HOUSE. Leading House. — The only one with Electric Light, constant Hot Water Supply in Bedrooms, and Vl-Spring Box MattreaoM. 14 acres Beautiful Grounds. Separate Lawns for Croquet, Tennis, Bowls, and 9-hole Putting Green. Own Dairy Produce A Poaltr^* Lock-up Garages. Moderate Tertns. D roitwich — D ul verton 27 13 Ztp O X -37 ^OCT X C XX. NATURAL BRINE BATHS. Renowned for Treatment of RHEUMATISM AND ALL ALLIED COMPLAINTS. Illustrated Booklet of Treatments, Charming District, Hotels, Sec, from Spa Director, J. H. HOLLYER, 52, Corbett Estate Ofl&ces, Droitwich. DROiTWICH . The Worcestershire Brine Baths Hotel, CLOSE TO ST. Andrew's BRINE BATHS. 150 Rooms (Bedrooms on Ground Floor). Suites. Lift. Private Grounds. Billiards. Croquet. Golf. Garage. OfE. App. AA. and R.A.C. Open all the year. Mod. Incl. Terms. Write for Descrip- tive Tariff. T. R. CULLEY, Manager. 'Phones: 2 Office, 48 Visitors. T«l$., "Worcestershire Hotel, Droitwich." DROITWICH Ayrshire House. Private Boarding Establishment. Standing in its Own Grounds, with Tennis 5c Croquet Lawns. About 300 yards from St. Andrew's Brine Baths. Cor- ridors Heated in Winter. Excellent Cuisine. Annexe added. Garage. *Pkon$ 87, Miss REILLY, Proprietress. DROITWICH. Both mow.] ■' OlM • to BrlBO Oarage S.A.O. A ▲.▲. ISS^ pS^ St^ SovTenir Tanil on AppUcatien. P. A. OEDDEB Proprlei Dnl7erton(6.W.R.)-CARNARVON ARMS HOTEL (420 feet.) Five miles Reserved Trout Rivers. (Adjacent.) Stag, Fox, Otter Hunting. Hunters for Hire. Home Farm Produce. Tennis. Billiards. 'Phone 2. • Wire— *' NELDER." THE WINDSOR BEST FOR THE HOME BEST FOR THE HOLIDAY 28 Dulverton — -Eastbourne DULVERTON. LAMB HOTEL. piRST -CLASS. Hunting. Free Fishing to Guests staying ^ in Hotel. Hunters ; Hacks ; Stables ; Carriages of all Descriptions. Open and Closed Cars. Garage and Inspection Pit. Billiards. Motor Bus meets all Trains. Listed Hotel to A.A. and M.U. Write for Tarifi to the Proprietors, W. DART & G. C. STANBURY. Wires: "Stanbury, Dulverton." Telephonft. O^ DULVERTON* Somerset THE GREEN PRIVATE HOTEL, \WN Grounds. Facing; South, First-class. Beautiful Gardens. Charm- ing Views. Hot and Cold Luncheons and Teas. Open all the year round. FreeFishing to Guests staying In Hotel. Close on Exmoor, the celebrated Loma Doone Country. Garage. Motor Beets all trains. Terms Moderate and Inclusive. ^»(y tt PROPRIETRESS. EASTBOURNE.— Devonshire Place. On the Sunny side, adjoining^ Grand Parade, Accom. for 150 Guests. Free Sea Bathing. First-class, most Up-to-date. — ,___,_ _^_^^. — -^^— ^ ■ — ^— ^ I Hotel Wolseley Landaulctte at Visitors' disposal for Station, Theatres, and 3 Golf Courses, M. each way. Central Heating. Gas Fires. H. & C. Water & 'Phones In all Bedrooms. Eastbourne-YORK HOUSE ^^^IZ* 14-19, R07AL PARADE. Unrivalled Position on Sea Front. Spacious Dining, r)rawing, and Dance Rooms. Smoking Lounge. Billiards (full-size table). Tea Lounge. 80 Bedrooms. Electric Light Throughout. Heated by Hot Water Radiators. Terms £3 8s* Mrs. DOUGLAS E. WILLIAMSON. Eastbourne-LANGHAM K'oV'Er Royal Parade. Pleasantly Situated on Sea Front, with Public Rooms facing Sea. Well-appointed Dining and Drawing Rooms. Excellent Cuisine. Mod. Tariff. Full particulars from PROPRIETOR. Eastbourne LATHOM HOUSE First-class Private Hotel, Howard Square. Close to Devonshire Park and Principal Amusements. Only one niinute to Sea Front. Gas Fires in all Bedrooms. Ideal Winter Residence. Terms from 8 Guineas, according . to Season and Rooms. 'Phone 986. Tcls., " Lathom House." Miss BRIDGE, Proprietress. Edinburgh — Exmouth — Falmouth 29 English LalLes (See pages 14, i7> 31, 37. 38> 70). ■DINBURGH. tCSIDENTIAL Ceotfaily situated in Princes St« opix38it« Phnees Gardeaa, Uinutes Railways. G. TESTUZ, Manager. Exmouth— IMPERIAL HOTEL. Stands in Pte. Park, facing Sea. Officially Appointed Hotel to R.A.C. &A.A. Ex. Winter Resort. Enlarged & Refurnished. Elec. Light & Lift. Central Heating. Single Rooms & Suites. High-class Cuisine. Three Golf Links nr. Hunting. Fishing in Private Waters & Sea. Mod. Inclu. Terms. Tels. — " Imperial, Exmouth." 'Phone 16. £iniontti,S.DeYGii-Oolf©rgan Hotel First-class Private Resldentia!. Overlooking Sea. Ideal Winter or Summsr Resort. Tariff Moderate. 'Phone 5. Telegrams, '* Dolforgan, Exmouth." Miss BAKER. FALMOUTH. SOUTH FRONT. BOSCAWEN HOTEL PRIVATE RESIDENTIAL. COUTH Aspect. Centre of ■^ Falmouth Bay. Five minutes from Station. Elec. Light Throughout. Separate Tables. 'Phone 141. Wires, " Boscawen Hotel." Illustrated Prospectus from The PROPRIETORS. Falmoitti-CWENDRA PENSION First Class. Bathing Beaches. Beautifully Situated on the Promenade. Facing the Sea. Close to Concert Gardens di Separate Tables. Personal Supervision. Miss M. BARRY, Proprietress. THE WINDSOR BEST FOR THE HOME. BEST FOR THE HOLIDAY. 30 Falmouth — Felixstowe — Folkestone Falmouth, Cornwali-PENTARGAN If^^ Stands in Own Grounds. South Aspect. On Sea Front. Directly facing the Bay. Smoking Rooms. Lounge. Billiardt. Full-size Table (Thurston). Croquet. Table d'H6te. Separate Tables. Electric Light Throughout. Golf, 1 8 -hole Course, i mile. Apply Mr. & Mrs. J. BANBURY. Proprietors. Telephone 101 Falmouth. Also '^JJIDISTON," Bnde. Facing Sea and South. High- class English Cuisine. * * A Most Comfortable Hotel. ' ' 'Phone 84. Telegrams, "Grand, Felixstowe." RESIDENT PROPRIETOR. GRAND HOTEL. MELROSE PRIVATE FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Finest Position. Facing Sea. Dancing and Bridge. •Phone 103. Write for Illustrated Tariff, Mrs. J. C. BUTLER, Proprietress. ALSO AT 128, King's Road. BRIGHTON. High-class Furnished Suites. 'Phone 1701 Brighton. HOTEL souH 3EACH "jw^iiili^ pBjVAiy BOTBi; FEUXSTOWE .— En Pension & ReiidontiaL Situated amid Kxtensire Flower Gardens & Rockeries. Is well Wo«Ud. . „„.._ ,p,^„.^ Facins: Sea. Close to Golf Links. Tennis Courts & Croquet. Tariff on Application. E. BOWEN, Resident Proprietress. Felixstowe-ST. EDMUNDSBURY f^a^S'^'Fadn'Tsei: Near Pier and all Entertainments. Good Table. Moderate Terms. Miss M. O. NEAME. FOLKESTOi^E— On the Lms. Central Position, near Bandstand, Shelter & Lifts. Finest Ooliln*. Facing Sea and South. THE liiSSSsoH!^ PRIVATE HOttV. Phones In erery Room. Foreign Lansruaees spoken ty the Administration. Phones (2 lines) 541. Tels., "Interlink. Folkestone." Folkestone-HOLDERNESS PRIVATE UriTFI CLIFTON ORESCENT. Facing Sea. nU I LL) West Leas. From 10/6 per day. Private Suites during Winter Months. 'Phone 794. . W. L. HOBSON. Proprietor. Folkestone — NORMANDENE PENSION, WilQfhAnrnO rtflrHonC Quiet and Select. Ideal Position IICDlUUUlllD UdlUcllD. for Winter or Summer Residence. South Aspect. Private Tennis Court. Suites of Rooms from October to April. Excellent Cuisine. Separate Tables. Moderate and Inclusive Tariff. 'Phone 96. Mrs. E. B. NEEDLEY. Folkestone-LANGHORNE HOTEL Piemisr Position on Leas. Ttl«PhOB0 Vo. 167. Folkestone — Freshwater — Gloucester — Grasmere 3 1 Folkestone-CO MAN'S HOTEL, Castle Hill Avenue. Close to Leas, Theatre & Central Station. Old-established, Well-appointed, and Up- to-date. Ex. and Liberal Cuisine. Mod. Terms. 'Phone 241. Telegrams, "Coman's Folkestone." J. F. ELDRIDGE, Proprietor. FRESHWATER, Isl9 of Wight- *• THE FRESHWATER BAY HOTEL !?rt'."^Li?^^'aiif„i?. Sunny. Sheltered. Secluded. GOLF. TENNIS. CROQUET. RA.C, AA., M.U. Telephone 47- THE ALBION HOTEL is on the margin of the Sea, which washes the Hotel Terrac*. Boating, Fishing, &c. Terms Moderate. Trains from Waterloo, vid Brockenhurst, in 3J hours; ala« from Victoria, vik Portsmouth. Clouoester-Bell Hotelr^^^^te^^^^ appointed by R.A C, A.A. & M.U. Night Porter. Electrio^ Light. Garage. 'Phone 772. Tels., "BeU Hotel, Glouc^ster." mORLESTON'ON'SEA. —V9iCmg Sea & Harbour. Board-Reildtnce a SpeciAllty. Every Accommodation. Electric Uffht. Baths V^ nrre uTqN o"«"£h. First-cl&M BILLIASD SALOOH. Luncheons, Dinners & Teas for Non-Residenti. Personal Supervision. Mrs. A. FOWLER. Proprietress GRASMERE (English Lakes). TS o-ii^xa x« Occupies a Commanding Position on Main Road to Keswick and South to Windermere. Central Heating. Electric Light Through- out. H. & C. Water installed in All Bedrooms. Separate Lock-up Garages. Home Farm Supplies. Tels., * Swan.' 'Phone 23. Appointed R.A.C. & A.A. Resident Proprietor, J. L. SANDILANDS. miASMERE (Bngliah.Lakes).— In Own Grounds^^ 'r^Lt fNII|,ti> fill Scenery. Garden z3z&x.A.x:. nrms Well-kno^N-n, High-class PRIVATE ^ HOTEL, facing Sea, contains IOC Apartments. Lounge. Billiard and Ball Rooms. Electric Light and Lift Separai Tables. Frequent Dances and Entertain- ments. Golf Links 1 \ miles. Moderate Inclusive Tariff from L. PARSONS. ILFRACOMBE. PRIVATE GOOD-CLASS BOARDING HOUSE. (( Seafield 99 Larkstone Terrace. VERY Highly Recommended for Good Tables and Excellent Cooking. With most charming uninterrupted Sea and Land Views from Bal- conies and Sitting Rooms. 12 Bedrooms. The house has two entrances, one from Main Road and one facing Sea, opposite Pier and Bathing Beaches. No effort spared to make \'isitors comtoriable. ILLUSTRATED TARIFF. TERiVIS STRICTLY MODERATE. Mr. & Mrs. C. BEAN. ILFRACOMBE. MOONTA PRIVATE HOTEL. DELIGHTFULLY Sit- uated, mamediately on Sea-edge, and com- manding a Magnificent View of the Channel. Close to Pier and Cap- • stone Parade. Electric Light Throughout. Moderate and Inclusive. Terms. Apply Proprietress. 36 Ilfracombe -iJ^B- cs-^^ ^isff ILFRACOlVIBE, N. Devon. — First-ciass family Boarding £stab^ Over 2.300 References in Visitors' Books. Mag-nificent Sea & Land Views._ New Loung'e. 44 Bedrooms. Baths. Balconies. Elec. Lig-ht. Separate Tables. Billiards. Comfort. Sociability. All Cakes Plome-made- 'Phone 15. \V. R. FOSTER. Proprietor. Ilfracombe-' Grosvenor' i-^i Private Hotel. First-class En Pension. One Minute Sea & Parade- Spacious Public Rooms. Lounge. Table d'Hote. Separate Tables- Replete with every Comfort. Moderate. Listed Hotel R.A.C. and M.U. Garage. Tel. 63. The Mioses PICKETT, Proprietresses. lifracombe-"ST. PETROC" BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. Situated on Level. Adjoining famous iorrs Walks and Tunnels, Bathing Beaches. Smoke Room, 40 Bedrooms. Good Cooking and Attendance. Unique Position for Winter Residence. Telephone 119. W. L. CH ADDER. TQURfNG CAR FOR HIRE. OWN GARAGE. Ilfracombe Sl/Sontebello Hotel. Family & Commercia]. Terms Strictly Moderate, no Extras. Large Dining Hall. Commercial Room. Three mins. from Sea. Bedrooms with Sea View. ^ TciPniione 40. Miss CREEK. Manageress. BDG. ESTAB. Granville Road. Ideal Situation. South Aspect. Two minutes from Tunnels, Bathing Beaches, Capstone Promenade, Torrs Walks, Tennis Courts, &c. Four minutes from Pier. Baths (h. &c.). Table d'Hote 7 p.m. Sep. Tables. Ex. Cuisine. Mod. Terms. Mrs. T. H. THORNE. Proprietress. Ilfracombe PORTLAND HOUSE BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. Pleasantly situ ated. Splendid Sea View. Near Capstone Parade, Pavilion, Pier and Bathing Beach, Electric Light Throughout. Moderate Terms. ^ Apply Mrs. STROUT, Proprietress. Ilfracombe ARLINGTON K"' Overlooking Sea and Capstone Parade. Near Pier, ^ Steamer Landing and Bathing Beaches. Good Cuisine. Liberal Table. Moderate Terms. > PROPRIETOR. lEf raoombe THE ENFiELD ILFRACOMBE, cc CECIL" PRIVATE HOTEL. f INEST Position on Sea Front. Adjoining Capstone Parade and Pavilion. ,■ Magnificent Sea Views. Excellent Cuisine. Table d'Hote daily. Separate Tables. Garage. Moderate Tariff. Private Motor Cars lor Hire. 'Phone 121. F. A. ENILL> Proprietor. ^ Ilf racombe — Keswick 3 7 llfracombe-'The Wildersmouth" PRIVATE HOTEL (Sea Front). Only Boarding Establishment with Sea Views 'rom every Window. Comfortable and Congenial. Most Popular in Neighbourhood. Inclusive Terms. 'Phone 2, _^ H BLACKMORE. Resident Proprietor. Ilfracombe-MONTPELIER HOUSE ^fMyfJi^ BOABDING ESTABLISHMENT. Magnificently Situated, Com- manding Uninterrupted Sea View. Central for Town, Beaches and Parade. Dining and Drawing Room, with Balcony facing Sea. Every Ccmfcrt and Liberal Table. Moderate Terms. Mrs. R. STANLEY SHORT. Proprietress. Ilfracombe" THE WESTBOUR^E" JLIIV BOARDIS^G ESTABLISHMENT. Pleasantly Situated in one of the best Residential parts, with Extensive Views of the Torrs froni Balconies. On the level, two minutes from Bathing Beaches; quite near Sea Front and all places of amusement. Baths (H. and C). Under the Personal Supervision of the Proprietress, Mrs. DaDDS, WHEELER'S nfracombe-PRlVATE APARTMENTS. 3, Promenade. Situated on Level. Facing Sea. Opposite Capstone Parade and Pavilion. Special Terms for Winter. Stamp. Every Comfort. IVloderate Terms. Mrs. J. R. WHEELER. Proprietress. Isle of Man (See pages 26, 52, 53) Isle of light (See pages 31, 54, 55 > 69) 3SZ 3ES S "Vir X O 2aZ~ (English Lakes). ROYAL OAK HOTEL Is one of the most Up-to-date and Best-eqtuipped Hotels in the District. ESTABLISHED over 200 years. Situated in the most commanding position in the town, and within a few minutes' walk of Derwentwater Lake, Golf Links, and Fitz Park. The Hotel has been honoured with the patroTi ge of the late King Edward VII ,when Prince of WalesV and other Royal Personages. Special Winter Tariff. VVeil-appoiuicu roui-m-hand Coaches and Motor Chars-a-bancs leave hiotel daily to all parts cf the Lake District. Garage for 100 Cars on the Premises. Officially appointed Hotel for A.A. and M.U. Proprietors— THE LAKE DISTRICT HOTELS, Ltd. Telephone 23. Mr D. N. PAPE, Resident Director, Keswick-Quee n's Kotel-rz-^lt'SerS^fef & SI! rounding Mountains. Close to Lake, Golf Links, Fitz Park, &c. Re- commended M.U. and A.A. Headquarters. C.T.C. The well-known Lake District Coaches, Ltd., & Blotor Chars-a-bancs leave Hotel dailv for all parts. Special Winter Tariff. GARAGE for 100 Cstts, Tels., " Caterer, Keswick ' 'Phone 54. Apply MANAGERESS. Proprietors, THE LAKE DISTRICT HOTELS, LTD. 38 Keswick — Leamington KESWICK HOTEL. KESWICK. The Centre of Lakeland. Derwentwater, Bassenthwaite, Loweswater, Wast water, Thirl- mere, Grasmere, Rydal, Win- dennere, Ullswater& Coniston Lakes, &c., all easy of access. — Make the KESWICK HOTEL your Headquarters and Visit the above Lakes by Coach or Motor. I d clusi v e Rates. Free Golf Coufje. Per- fect Sanitation. Illus. Tariff on application. Hotel — Mr. & Mrs-. WIVELL, Resident Proprie- tors. Coaches and Motors— WIVELL S COACHES * MOTORS. LTD. 'Phone 20. KESWICK (English Lakes). First-class. Old Established^ Central Situation. Close Lake, Park, Golf Links. &c. Eicctric Ligrht. Tables. Sep. e^ cA"*" hba. •*«'^o3lbi Motor & Coach Excursion s to all parts. Motors "for Hire. Garage. Petrol. Personal Supervision. 'Phone 77. For Tariff apply E. W. ROBERTS. Proprietor. KESWIC^'V.-Most Central. Easy Distance to Golf Links, Lio teusei): FitzPark & Lake Derwentwater. Elec Throughout. Garage- Appoi R.A.C. 'Phone 71.^ _...„.,.«■■ -- ^^^^^ During Season Motors & Coaches Leave Hotel for all Parts of Lake District. 'Bus meets Special Winter Terms. Mrs E. GILLESPIE. m^Si Trains. Keswick-Birundholm Hotel '^^:^VL-o^^^. Situated amid beautiful Mountain Scenery. Close to Lake Derwent- water. Recommended. Miss A. MILLER, Proprietress. KESWI ^r^m — Visitors stiould xCoS«5i-Vo Car Accoi in one of the Private A. A, Recommended "ocK rup GAR^SS^ AT QUIRK'S GARAGE^ The only Ideal Accommodation in the District Phone 61. Cars for Hire. Repairs.:,' '■ Leamington-Crown Hotel, ^'^r^t^^^^^iit^nfj^ni Cuisine. Close Stations, PumpRm. & Jephson Gdns. 'Phone654. Tels., " Crown, Leamington." F. V. WALFORD, Proprietor. Leamington-Lothians Boarding House, "^^J'pTmi Room, Baths, and Gardens. Comfortable. Good Table. Moderate Charges. Mrs. A. NETTLEY, Proprietress. Leamington-Lachine looking Jephson Gardens. One minute from Pump Room and Baths. Lounge. Garage. Apply for Terms. Mrs. ASSINDER, Proprietress. Leamington-The Guernsey ?rii'i"?fa°S":SiTnte"s?l Warwick, Kenilworth, Stratford-on-Avon. Close Pump Room, ^ Baths, Gardens. 'Phone 643. Mrs. K. M. GERMAN, Prop'tress. Leamington-Jephson House g^koSg j7ph»n^gfas: Min. fr. Pump Rm. & Parade. Liberal Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Smoking Room. Baths (h. &c.). Modei-ate Terms. Mrs. HAMMOND. Littlehampton — Llandrindod Wells — Llandudno 39 LITTLEHAMPTON BEACH ^ HOTEL. STRICTLY FIRST-CLASS. STANDING IN OWN LOVELY GROUNDS. FACING SEA. Thone 55. G. S. STAGEY. Littlehampton (wfn?e}''^?'s.rt)-THE WHITE HOUSE. Finest Position on Sea Front. Close Beach & Golf Links. Inexpensive & Comfortable. See Advertisement on back of Illustrated Guide to Littlehampton. Thone 68. Apply to the PROPRIETRESS. Littlelampton - " SOUTH LAN OS " ^^& Private Hotel. On . Sea Front, Facing South. 'Phone 42. Apply Miss WOOD, Manageress. LLANDRINDOD WELLS. BRYNAWEL HOTEL HIGH-CLASS. FINEST POSITION. Accommodation for 15^0 Guests. Electric Lift. Golfing and Fishing Centre. Tennis. Croquet. Billiards. Tel. 27. JEFFREY JONES, Managing Director. LLANDRINDOD WELLS-MOSTYN HOTEL Is a Modem Building, and has Excellent Accommodation. Best Position for Golfers. Near Springs and Baths. Electric Light Throughout. Lounge, Smoke Room and Private Sitting Room and Recreation Room. Telephone 88. Apply Mr. & Mrs. J. VV. ARMITAGE. LLANDRINDOD WELLS, Midlales-THEGWAUA UnTEl Health and Pleasure Resort The Largest Unlicensed Hotel in Llandrindod. Lounges, Ladies' Drawing Room, Smoke Room, Billiard Room (two tables), Recreation, Room for Dances, Concerts, &c. Near Station, Post Office. Golf, Tennis, Bowls, and Mineral Springs. Tariff on application. LLANDUDNO Centrally Situated. Facing Sea. Electric Light. Two Lifts. ^---^ .^n^ m^^ ^^ Private Garage. 140 Rooms, TT OTP17 T 'Phone 391 (3 lines) . H U 1 Ju Ju Terms and Full Particulars— S. CHANTREY, Managing Director. 40 Llandudno uLAWDUPWO. — First-class. Central Position. Close to Pier, Pavilion, & Golf Links. Ex. Cuisine Electric Light. Heated in ^ ^ Wi„,.r _ ^^R6**SB1 THE CUAi Phone 285. ^^^^^^^^^^ i-ounge. billiard & Smoking Rooms. lej5. Clarence Hotel Llandudno. For Tariff apply Managkress. LLANDUDNO. — ^Facinjr South.— Finest Sea & Mountain Views. Loungre, Promenade Verandah. Heated Throughout. ll^^ 3::e&S, rjr^^il: Clo.se Pier, Prom, and Two Golf Links (Sunday Play). Garage. Fully Licensed. Apply Mrs. J. HALL, Proprietress. LLANDUONO. Facing the Sea. Recreation Room. • Billiards. Electric Lift. Tel. Add. " Middwood." ^rv-^ SJSwis ::o^ Cte' lopet*' L(\ceV Near Tennis Courts. Accommodation for 200 Visitors. Misses MIDDLETON & WOOD. Llandudno-" Ormesc! iff e " ^T'^^^'T^. %TJ. Accom. 250 Visitors. Evening. Billiards. Ballroom. Dancing & Entertainments Each 'Phone 178. Mr. & Mrs. ALLEN SMITH. Llandudno SHERWOOD Bdg. Promenade, facing Sea. Splendid View of Bay and Ormes. Electric Light. Picnics, Motor and Coach Parties arranged. Terms Moderafe. Mrs. E. L. PARRY. Llandudno-FOUR OAKS ^^'^^^'^;^::SL comer to Hydro. Finest Position on Promenade. Entirely open to Mountains at back. One min. from Cars. Easy distance Golf, Pier, Garage, Tennis and Theatre. Sep. Tables. Excellent Cuisinr. Open all tlie year. Xmas i^estivities. Personal Supervision. Good Fires in Winter. Good Ventilation in Summer. Telephone 306. For Terms npplv Mrs. SIMPSON YATES. Proprietress. LLANDUDNO .— First-class Private Hotel.— Centre of Links, ' ,--ir . "tC^ 59 Grand Parade. Facing: Sea. Close Links, Pier, Pavilion, oprietrpsses. Llandudno DRUMMONDIE^" Central. One Minute from Sea, Promenade, and few minutes from Pier, &c. Thirty Bedrooms. Electric Light Throughout. Separate Tables. Daily Motor Tours in Own Cars. Telephone 417. For Terms apply Mrs. WATSON & Miss DENNISON. Llandudno — London — Lowestoft — Lymington 41 LLANDUDNO-' MARSHLANDS' T^r Gloddeath Avenue, i^ minutes from Promenade and Pier. Near . Three Golf Links, Recreation Ground, and Tennis. Good Position. Mountain View. Liberal Table. Every Comfort. Modern Sanita- tion. Reasonable Terms. For Terms apply Miss RICHARDS (late West End Hotel). Llandudno-The Shakespeare ?a%^ta:' k^"^. Palladium, &c. Pte Apartments, Oct. to June. Elec. Light. Personal Supervision. Mrs. W. L. EDWARDS, Prop 'tress (late of Goleutryn: LLAHUUDNO- '^ THE CRfcSC^NT " Dl-lwa+A aiA-l-oi "ONE OF THE BEST." Prom. Facing rriVCtLC nULUS. Sea. Tel. 274. W. L. MORAN. I Imperial Hotels ^ Lon don i B 7 Hots s. 2,0'JO Rooms. Central Position. Room Fitted "T/Q ^ g Hot and Cold vVater . batn. Breakfast and Service from ■ / e^ || LOWESTOFT. Facing Pier & Yacht Basin. Passenger Lift. 'Phones: Lowestoft ^..^^^^/^ 394— Hotel Office. ..^^^ W 395— Visitors' Calls. GARAGE Two Tennis Courts and Croquet Lawn within Hotel Grounds. Terms and Full Particulars, J. B. WHALEY, Resident Proprietor. Lowestoft-" ESPLANADE HOTEL. ''-?r„tfTos.^:^ron^°^fa Front. Tel. 298. Anplv Proprietors. Mr. & Mrs. TKXXRR. Lowestoft south) CLOFORD HOUSE ^^^lV""s Sea Views. Redecorated. Ex. Cuisine. Close Bath: no' Stations, Tennis Courts, Piers, Golf Links. For Term-, apply to PROPRIETRESS. Lymlngton-The ANGEL HOTEL. LEADING FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. Telephone No. 50. W. J. FELTHAI\L Proprietor. LYMINGTON-THE LONDiSBOROUGH '^^titlnZl HOTEL Officially Appointed by the A.A., A.C.U. and C.T.C. Telephone No. 188. BEST FOR THE HOME THE WINDSOR MAGAZINE BEST FOR THE HO LID A Y 42 Lyndh urst — Lynmouth LYNDHURST-STAG HOTEL '^ZIrcV.I Officially Appointed by the A.A., A.C.U. and C.T.C. Telephone No. 8. Lyndhurst Uants)-"Crown Hotel. "-^tsSJ.'^'ebSS"; 1897). Facing South. Electric Light. 60 Bed & Sitting Rooms, Large Gardens. Motor Garage. Livery Stables. Tel. No. 13. Telegrams, " Crown, Lyn dhurst." LYNMOUTH, N.Devon. The Bath Hotel Under Entirely New Management. M BAREST Hotel to Sea and ^^ Harbour. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Tariff. 'Phoae 38 Lynton. Telegrams, ** Lord, Lynmouth." Under Personal Supervision of Proprietor, J. W. LORD. LYNMOUTH. TORS moxe:l_. BEA.UTIFULLY Situated in its Own Grounds, 300 feet up, and facing the Sea. Luxurious Ball Room. Billiard Room. Garage. W. & R. RIDDELL, Proprietors. Tels., "Tors, Lynmouth." 'Phone 47 Lynton Exchange. BEST FOR THE HOME THE WINDSOR MAGAZINE BEST FOR THE HOLIDAY Lynmouth — Lynton 43 LYNMOUTH, NORTH DEVON Ji^e Oldest Established First-class Family Hotel. tJest Position m Lyumoutii. Two minutes from and Overlooking Sea. ■f @ s Nearest Hotel to VVatersmeet, Doone Valley, and Most Central for Devon and Somerset Staghounds. G.W.Rly. Motor Coaches call at HoteU Extensive Garage with all facilities adloimng Hotel. Petrol. Private Lock-ups. Officially appointed to R.A.C. & A. A. Salmon, Trout and Deep Sea Fishing. Golf. Bathing. A. W. GAYDON, Proprietress. LYNMOUTH, Devon. GRANVILLE HOUSE (PRIVATE HOTEL). Central for Watersmeet, Doone Valley, and All Places of Interest. Close to Sea and ClifE Rail- way connecting Lynton. Minehead Coach Passes Door. Touring Car for Hire, and to all Places of Interest Mrs. T. W. SLANN. Proprietress. Tel?., " Slann. Lynmouth." LYNTON, N. Devon. HIGH-CLASS Boarding Establishment. Beautifully situated' iii Ovm Grounds, on the sunny side of a hill, about 400 feet above, and facing Sea ; commanding Finest Views of Sea and Coast, River Lyn, and far-famed Watersmeet Valley. Tels., "Fairholm." Also OLDEST Established Boarding House in Lynton. Every Comfort. Moderate Terms. H. & C. Baths. Electric Light. Terms on application to— The Misses COURTEEN & MADDOC KS. Tels., "Waterloo^ Lynton." 44 L\-nton LYNTON (N. Devon). ROYAL CASTLE HOTEL In the LORNA DOONE Country. Elec. L'ght Thron^hout. Table d'H^te, Renrlinc: and Drawino: Rootis. Newly constnicted Lonn?p, vvtli Loveliesl Viiws m Ljp^laiid, 'Bus meets trams. Motoi Coaches Daily to MineheaJ and tor Excursions. Stag and Fox Hunting. Fishing. Motor Garage. Moderate Tariff. "Phone 48. Telegrams—" Castle, Lynton." TOM JOXES, Proprietor. LYNTON, N. Devon. IMPERIAL HOTEL. Magnincent Position. 600 ft. above Sea. Charming Views of Sea & Headlands. Fully Licensed. Heated Throughout. Elec. Light. Garage. Well-appointed Hotel for Comfort, Ex. Cuisine & Mod. Tariff. Tels., "Imperial Lynton." 'Phone 50. Lvn'^on — Malvern 45 I.YNTON. DAY DREAMS IN DEVON. TO VISITORS. LEE ABBEY Is now open to receive Guests En Pension. This Historic House has been Renovated and Redeco- rated Throughout. Electric Light, Central Heating and Up-to-date Improvements. Combining the Charm, Colour and Comfort of an Old Country House with all the Modern Conveniences of an Hotel. Restfulness, Seclusion and Peacefulness are secured amidst Ideal Surroundings without Isolation. RECREATIONS. The following are Organised for Guests' Entertain- m.ent: Indocrs. Dancing, Table Tennis, Badminton, Bridge, and Library. Outdoors. Tennis, Fishing, Boating, Hunting and Riding Lessons. The Best Bathing in the district (Lee Bay) adjoins Grounds. Lynton Golf Links only |-mile from Lee Abbey. Rough Shooting. GGOdGarag:e. Ample Stabling. Home-gro-v^-n Produce from Glorious Old World Garden. See Illustration facing p. 33. mum CUFF Boarding House. FIRST-CLASS. Situated in the Famous North Walk. Rebuilt and Redecorated Sanitation Perfect. Stands in Own Grounds, 500 feet above and facing Sea. Electric Light Throughout. W. SLOUGH, Proprietor. Tels., " Northcliff, Lynton." MALVERN, ALDWYN TOWER Boarding: Establishment. FINEST POSITION IN MALVERN. BEAUTIFULLY Situated. 600 ft. above Sea LeveL Convenient for Town and Hiils. Balcony commanding Magnificent Views. Highly Recommended. Electric Light Mrs. FRED. J. SMITH, •Phone 304 Malvern. PROPRIETRESS. 46 Malvern — Margate MALVERN WELLS. THE ESSIHGTON HOTEL. SITUATE 600 feet above Sea Level, and adjoining the Hills ; can hardly be surpassed for its lovely position and magnificent views over the Hills and the fertile valley of the Severn. Perfect Sanitation. WATER SUPPLY FROM THE CELEBRATED HOLY WELL The Hotel is within 10 minutes' walk of Golf Links. Moderate Terms. For Tariff, apply : — G. HANSON, Proprietor. Malvern-GOLDHILL PRIVATE HOTELfrr^'ll Own Grounds. Nearest Hotel to Station, Manor Park, Malvern College for Girls. S. Aspect. Elec. Light Throughout. Sanitary Arrangements Perfect. Ten mins. HilJs, Public Gardens, Churches & Golf Links. Heated Throughout, Handsome Lounge. Ex. Winter Home. Write for Descriptive Tariff with Local Views. Telephone 91. Apply— Mrs. BRAY HARTLAND. MALVERN- CENTRAL HOTEL (UNLICENSED). Most Convenient for Visitors and Tourists. Replete with every Comfort. Moderate Tariff. Also Restaurant in connection. Hot & Cold Luncheons Daily. Teas. &c. H. G. BERRY, Prop. Malvern-Grosvenor Fn"or„^G°r?^n7s':^°'g,'Shls^: Heated in Winter. Magnificent views of the Hills and Severn Valley. 'Phone 155. Mrs. WALWYN YATES. Proprietress. CLIFTONVILLE (Margate)-HOTEL ET I f\ R P M ^ P First-ciass Family and Residential. ■■-^^■^^■^^i^^" (Fully Licensed.) Finest Position on Sea Front, close to Palm Bay. Fine Tudor Hall Lounge. Large Dining HaU. Comfortable Drawing & Reading Rooms. Billiard Room. Elec. Lift to all Floors. Open all the Year. 'Phone 118. Tels.. "Hotel Florence. Margate." Mr. & Mrs. \\. JAMIESON. I Cliftonville ~ FIRST AVENUE HOTEL Ideally Situated, facing the Oval, and com- manding uninterrupted Sea "Views. Open Throughout the Year. Excellent Cuisine. Reasonable Tariff. Suites of Rooms during Winter Months'. 'Phone Margate 224. Capt. & Mrs. G. DAWSON. Proprietors. Margate (Cliftonville)-WINDSOR HOTEL, Dalby Square. First-class Residential. Licensed. BiUiards. Orchestra. Facing New Tennis Courts & Bowling Green. Magni- ficent Public Rooms; July, September, Xmas, Easter & Whitsun HoUdays from 5 Gns., or 15/- per day. August from 6 Gns. Other months from 4i Gns.*, or 13/6 per day. Tel. No. 607. > -.. F. F. V. BURTON. Proprietor. UfiGATE, GLIFTONVILLE-Northdown Parade Ua-I-aI GOOD-CLASS FAMILY. Spacious Lounge and nWlCI ■—Dining Hall. 'Phone 402. E. T. FASHAM, Ltd. Matlock — Monmouth 47 SMEDLEY'S Hydropatbic Establishment, MATLOCK, ;S3. ®NE of the largest and most complete in the Kingdom, extensively patronised all the year round by Pleasure-seekers as well as those requiring Hydropathic Treatment. Daily average of Visitors, over 240. An unrivalled suite of Hydropathic Baths, including an up-to-date installa- tion of Electrical Apphances' Consulting and Resident Physicians. A large Staff (upwards of 50) of trained male and female Nurses, Masseurs, anJd Bath Attendants. Matlock Golf T.inks — 18 holes, within 15 minutes' walk. TERMS : — 13/- to 16/6 per day, inclusive, according to Bedroom, no extra charge for Turkish and Ordinary Hydropathic Baths. Illustrated Prospectus on application to — H. CHALLAND, Managing Director. Teles.rains—*^ Smedleys, Matlock." Telephone No. 17. MATLOCK. THE LILYBANK HYDRO, LTD. Bracing. Health & Pleasure Resort the year round. Beauti- ful Ballroom, Spring Floor. Extensive Grounds. Ex. Cui- sine. Elec. Light Throughout. Central Heating. All Hydro Baths Free to Visitors. Garage, Six Lock-ups. Tennis, Bowls, Croquet, Billiards. Terms Moderate. 'Phone 81. Mr. & Mrs. JOHN KAY, Managers. MATLOCK BATH, DERBYSHIRE-NEW BATH HOTEL. Under- Entirely New Management. Free Garage. Thermal Swimmirig Bath. Famous Chef. Special Attractions lor the Winter Season. 'Phone, Matlock 39. Tels. " New Bath, Matlock Bath." Tariff on Application. PROPRIETOR. ' Monmouth— BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL First-class Tourist Ho.use. Finest Garage in the Wye Valle}^ : Table d'Hote 7.30 p.m. Separate Tables. Finest Cuisine; and Wines at Moderate Charges. Telephone 10 Monmouth. 48 Minehead — Mortehoe MINEHEAP, SOM. STRAND PRIVATE HOTEL IMMEDIATELY Facing Sea. Commanding Extensive Views of the Bristol Channel, North Hill, Moors, Golf Links, &c. Balcony extends entire length of Hotel. Electric Light. Baths (H. & C). Private Sitting Rooms if Required. Under Person alJSupervis ion. Nearest Hotel to Golf Links. 'Phone 144. Telegrams, " Strand Hotel." Tariff on Application. F. STEVENS, Proprietor, MINEHEAD, Somerset. ^ BEACONWOOD. PRIVATE Residential Hotel. Beautifully Situated on the North Hill. Standing- in Own Grounds, Facing due South. Highest and Best Position in the District. Magnificent Sea and Land Views. Close to Pine Woods. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Tennis in Own Grounds. Every Comfort. Electric Lighting. Ex- cellent Cuisine. Centre for Meets of Staghounds. Garage. I. P. Tariff on Application to PROPRIETOR. Special Terms for Winter Visitors. Tels., "BEACONWOOD." 'Phone 32. MORTEHOE, N, DEVON. Telegrams, " Watersmeet. Mortehoe." 'WATERSMEET' First-Class Private Hotel. Charmingly situated in Own Grounds, adjoining Sea & Beach, with private path. Close to famous Woolaco mbe Sands. Flee. Light Throughout. Good Bathing. Motor meets trains by appoint- ment. Tennis, Croquet and Bowls. Golf Links (i8-holel. South Aspect. Highest references in Visitors' Books. Mod. and Inclusive Terms.- •Phone 3 Woolacorabe. A. E. CHUGG, Proprietor. MORTEHOE, N. Devon. Boarding Establishment. Standing in Own Grounds, leading to Bathing Beaches. Overlooking Sea. Good Ac- commodation for Families. Every Comfort. Personal Supervision. Golf. Shooting. Special Winter Terms. Pri- yate Suites of Rooms. Also Furnished House to Let. Terms from 21 Guineas, according to Season. Mrs.W.G CONIBEAR, Proprietress. Mullion — Newquay 49 MULLION, CORNWALL. ■p I R S T-C L A S S. ^ Largest in Dis- trict. Electric Light. Close to Sea. Good Beach. Bathing and Boating. Close to snd Nearest to Splen- did Goif Links 18 holes). Motor Garage. Station^Heiston. Apply MANAGER. POLDHU HOTEL. MULLION, South Cornwall. POLURRIA^ HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS. Stands in its Own Grounds of 4 acres. Replete in all Modern Appointments. Large Lounge. Electric Light Throughout. Facing Sea. Good Boating and P^ishing. Splendid Sands. Near Excellent Golf Links (18 holes). Visitors driven to same free at stated times. Garage. Terms lYloderate. Apply MANAGER. Y/oolacoml)e Bay (Mortehoe) (See page 71) New Forest (See pages 41 and 42) T^: I '\^' Q TJ Jk^ "^r , HEADLAND HOTEL PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY. BEST Position on Cornish Coast. Most Comfortable Hotel. Moderate Tariii. Open all Winter. Hard Tennis Courts for all year round play recently added. Two Billiard Tables. .Motor Garage. G.W.R. Corridor Through Train all seasons. Ofiieially appointed by the Royal Automobile Club. The Only Hotel in Newquay adjoining the Golf Links. PRIVATE >SOTEL. Situated in the best part of Newquay, facing Sea and Bathing Beaches, with fine Views. Close to Station. Excellent Cuisine. Separate Tables. Electric Light. Perfect Sanitation. Near Tennis Courts. Every Comfort. Terms Moderate. Highly Recommended. Mrs. HALL. Proprietress. Series, 1923-24J 50 Newquay — North Wales Newquay. Comwali. ST. RUMON'S Private Boarding Hous3. BEAUTIFULLY situ- ated, facing the Sea. Adjoining Beach & Golf Links. Own Garage. Terms Moderate and Inclusive. 'Phone 78. Mrs. JOHNS. Proprietress. NSWQUAY, CORNWALL r^ARROW CLIFF Private Hotel i^i^iSi^'') Sea View. Close to Beack and Station. Electric Light. Tennis Courts. Certificated Sanitation. Terms Moderate and Inclusive. Special Winter Terms. Mrs. VERRAN. Proprietress. NEWQUAY, CORNWALL. TREGWELLA Newquay-" TOLeARNI Private Hotel. HIGH, Bracing Situation. Magnificent Sea View. A few minutes' walfe from Sands and Golf Links. Separate Tables. Good Cuisine. Moderate and Inclusivt Terms. Personal Supervision. Apply PROPRIETRESS. yy PRIVATE HOTEL. Facing Sea and Bathing Beaches. BALLROOM. GAB AGS. Finest English Catering. Most Reasonable Terms. Newly Furnished. Electric Light. Separate Tables. Thirty-fivt Bedrooms. Write to-day for Tariff and Booklet. Tels.,'*' Farmer, Newquay." GRAHAM-FARMER, Proprietor. North Wales Holiday Resorts. Unrivalled Scenery. Attractions to Suit All. Per- fect Climate. A Beautifully Illustrated Descriptive Booklet on receipt of ijd. Postage. — Write Secretary, W.L., N. Wales Advertising Board, 3, Brynhyiryd Terrace, Conway. Norwich — Oxford 51 NORWICH. ROYAL HOTEL piRST- CLASS MODERN HOTEL. Furnished by -*■ Maple & Co. Pubhc Restaurant. Popular Prices. Night Porter. Telephone 1411 Norwich. HENRY L. CLARK, Managing Director. AID'S HOTEL. WOBa B'^L. mH^ \/fOST Interesting 15th Century House. Beautifully Furnished and brought up to date. New Bath Rooms and Sanitary Arrangements. Telephone 85 Norwich. HENRY L. CLARK, Managing Director, OXFORD. — Firsi-ciass Family. Centre of Higii St. ESTABLISHED 1400. Elec, Light. Telephoae ^6. thC^^ ViOTft UfO. illiazds. Morris's Gar&fa. Telegraphic Address—^'' Mitre, Oxford." NigM Porter. Apply MANAGER. OXFORD. RESIDENTIAL HOTEL IFFLSY ROAD. Terms Moderate. Telephone 776. Near Colleges and Rives. Accommodation for Motorisift, Good Public Rooms. Private Sitting Rooms if reaniwi. Miss BAKER, ProprietreaSi 13 to 17, MAGDALEN STREIT. Oxford-OXENFORD HALL, prtpate auD 1Resi5eutial IboteL In the Centre of Citj. Near Co eges, and opposite Martyrs' Memorii!. T^rms Moderate. 'Phone 748. M!SS W.^TSON. BEST FOR THE HOffiE. The WINDSOR BEST FOR THE HOLIDAY. 52 Paignton — Penzance — Plymouth — Port Erm PAIGNTON, TORQUAY, GOODRINGTON HOUSE PRIVATE RESIDENTIAL HOTEL, Taken by Aerco Aerials Ltd. Finest Position on Tor Bay. An Ideal Summer and Winter Resort. Terms En Pension according to Season and Room. Electric Light. Two Large Lawns. Home~ Grown Fruit and Ve.^etables. Garage. For Safe Bathing on Own Sandy Beach. Nearest Chursfon Golf Links Two miles to Club House. No Roads to Crosf. Garage. Home Farm. Promenade. Soythp®rt-lfesketh Park Hydro Ltd.- Premier Hydro. Electric Lift. Tennis. Close Sea and Golf Links. Illus. Tariff. 'Phone 1355. Telegrams — " Rockfev." Sou-£sip©rx-iCenwortny's Mydro.-''^'^ "-^f^. Sunny Aspect. Ivear Pier & Lord Street. Lift. Tarifi from t2/- daily. 'Phone 80. Tels., " Kenworthv's." Apply MANAGERESS. Soutliport-' HOTEL GORDON ' WS^'^^'I^^^'T^ Street. Tennis and Croquet in Own Grounds. Near to Golf Links. Illustrated Tariff on Application. Telephone 1501. STMTFORD-OH-AYON-THe ARDEN HOTEL, o'^Vrtt the Memorial Theatre. The Interior is Attractive and Furnished with Old Oak. Shady Garden. Modem Sanitation. Every Com- fort and Good Service. A Special i^eature is made of the Restaur- ant where Dainty Lunches, Teas and Dinners are Served. The Misses CRAN & WATNEY (late of Old Vicarage, Stratford- on-Avon). 'Phone 46. Garage. Stratford-on-AYon (See also pages 58 and 71) 58 Stratford — Symonds Yat — Teignmouth— Tenby Stratford-on-Avon-AVONHURST BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT, JOHN STREET. Most Central for Warwick, Leamington, Kenilworth, and all Places of Shakespearean Interest. Terms Moderate. Miss WILDBLOOD, Proprietress. Symonds Yat-Royal Hotel i!^:c&TTFg.Cg^-0-j%,^gg-, veLLA B£L£A hotel. /^NE of Torquay's famous Villa Resi- "^ dences. Ideal Situation, due South, commanding^ Unequalled Views, includ- ing- the whole of Torbay. Spacious Loung-es. Elec. Lig-ht Throughout. Ex. Cuisine. Good Service. Noise-prool double Windows (fronting- Sea). Terms from £3 3s. '^ Good Chef. WINTER.— Owing- to its* sheltered posi- tion, Villa Belza can be strongly recom- mended as a Winter Residence, being protected from all north & east winds, and with its Southern Aspect obtains ail the Sun of the day. Personal Supervision of Proprietors, Mr. & Mrs. J. DENHAM BROWN. Telephone No. 72. Telegrams, " Villa Belza, Torquay." Torquay 65 TORQUAY. EDENHURST Firsi-class Private Hotel KJ EAR Pavilion, Medical Baths, * ^ Bathing Coves. Pier, Torbay Yacht Club, & Elec. Trams to Golf Links. Elec. Light. Sep. Tables. Terraced Lawn, facing S.W., over- looking Sea and Harbour, affords one of the finest Panoramic Views in the World. 'Phone 589. Tels., "Edenhurst, Torquay." Under the Persona^ Supervision of The HOSTESS. TORQUAY , THE BUNGALOW HOTEL OCCUPIES a unique posi- tion overlooking Tor Bay. Situated in Own Grounds. Makes an Ideal Winter Residence, sheltered frcm the N. and E. Winds. Three Mins. fr. New Medical Bathe, Pavilion, and New Opera House. Central Heat- ing. Luxuriously Furnished. Excellent Cuisine. Apply, MANAGER. 'Phone iorquiiy 822. Tels., "Bungalow, Torquay " TORQUAY . O'O'OIES. PRIVATE HOTEL. Situated in Ideal Position ju-t above Strand. Overlooking Bay. Splendid Views. Five acres of ground. Italian Gar- den. Tennis Court. Garage. Within easy access of many Places of Interest. Personal Supervision. Ex. Cuisine. Individual Comfort of Guests studied, i. erms from 5 Gns: Mrs. C. G. KENNAWAY. TORQUAY, LANCASTER PRIVATE HOTEL, Hesketh Crescent. PREMIER Position * adjoining Mead- foot Bathing Beach. Unrivalled Sea View. Well Appointed. Gas Fire in all Bed- rooms. Mrs. STARKEY, Proprietress. Telegrams, 'Castrian,' Torquay. Telephone, 240 Torquay. Series, 1923-24J 66 Torquay TORQUAY. SOUTHLANDS PRIVATE HOTEL, ^ Tierrace Road, "A Deligfhtfully Situated Detached Residence ^tand- ingr ill Own Grounds ot about an Acre. Commanding- Magr- nificent Sea Views Large Lofty Rooms. . Overlooking- Torbay. Highly Recom- mended. Terms on applica- tion. Private Suites of Apart- ments during Winter Months. " .. Mrs. DAW. Pr'-vnr;p.trf>.9=. TORQUAY. "SEA LAWN " PRIVATE HOTEL Flectric Fires in Everv Bedroom Ideal Position on Front. On Level. Most Central. Separate Tables. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Terms. GARAGE. Visitors' Comfort the first consideration ofProprietors Mr. & Mrs. J. A.PLUM. Phone 774. Tels., "Sealawn." TORQUAY. MARSWORTH » PRIVATE HOTEL. ]V\AGNIFICENT Views- ' * Tastefully Furnished & Decorated. Four mins. fr. Shops, Trams, Gardens, &c. Electric Light. Sep. Tables. Excellent Cuisine. Billiards. Terms from3i.. Guineas. Thone 78. '- Resident Proprietress, Mrs. H.E. BEES DN. ' View from Balcony." TORQUAY. Boarding Establishment. Beautiful Situation. South Aspect. Lovely Viev/s of Torbay & surround- ing Scenery. Sheltered from N. & E. Winds. Central Position for all Places of Interest. Excellent and varied Cuisine. Large Drawing Rooms, opening on Balconies, over- looking Torbay. Billiard & Smoke Rooms. Baths (H.&C). Terms on Application. 'Phone No. 391. ^Irs. COOMBES CROSSLEY, Proprietress. Also MARSDEN LODGE Boarding House, Phone 534. MO R6AN, AVENUE. Torquay 67 TORQUAY . EBBOR HOUSE PRIVATE HOTEL. IDEAL Position. South Aspect, over- looking Torbay. Centra]. Electric Light. Electric Fires. Illustrated Tarifi on Application. , Telegraphic Address, '* Ebbof House." Telephone No. 942. Personal Management. Mrs. J. H. EMERSON (Resident). TORQUAY, ii KINELLAN f9 BOAROINO ESTA3LESHMEHT. Overlooking Torwood Gardens. Splendidly Situated, Facing South. Three minutes from Sea, Pavilion, Principal Shops, Medical Baths, &c. Good Cuisine. Sep. Tables. Electric Heating. CAR FOR HIRE. Private Apartments during Winter Months. Moderate Terms. -, Mrs. a. C. MAGNUS, Proprietress. TORQUAY. SENLAC Private Hotel, LINCOMBE DRIVE. piRST - CLASS. Own * Grounds. Command- ing Comer Site. Convenient for Sea, Trams, Shops and Golf. Elec. Light through- out. Personal Siipervision. Tels., " Senlac, Torquay." Mrs. mm Photo by J. Rende, Parkstone ^ SN 3 Auctioneers, Estate Agents, &c. 79 LEADING HOUSE AGENTS AND AUCTIONEERS. yy#/ ^^^^^^ V^ II PON receipt of your require- VJ/ C^TORQUAY,^^ meats a Selected Property ' fM ^ — — «>?;iLi^^ Regjister will be sent Free of Charge. Officer :— 7, Vaughan Parade and 99, Union Street. ESTABLISHED 1850. 'Phones 980 & 241. TORQMAY^House Agents, &c. G.R. SMITH & SON, 9, STRAND. Illustrated Register of 60 pages (post fiee) of Houses & Estates to be Sold-or T.et in Tornuav and South Devon 'Phone 14 TORQUAY. icUgrams — *VKeliable, Tjrquay." House Agents— COX & SON, -W. -WILKINSON cox, F.A.I. C M. MYOTT, F.A.I. G. W. COX, P.A.S.I., F.A.I. AUCTIONEERS & VALUERS;— 8, STRAND. Established 1805. Illustrated List on Application. Telephone 8, -W. BROCK & Co., Ltd., House and Estate Agents, House Furnishers, Removal Contractors, Undertakers, &c. Tel. 203 Toronav Tel 11P> Eyptor. TORQUAY AND EXETER- Weymouth-^ . W. FULLER, F.A.I. , Auctlonee.^ Vafuep, Kotei Broker, and House Agent 61, St. Thomas Street. Tel. No. 65. WMtstable-on-Sea— J. T. REEVES & SON. The leading House and -Estate Agents. Office of the Distria Homefinder. Tel. No. 69. WINDERMERE j. nigholsoh, F.A, Leading House & Estate Agent, •Phone 91 Windermere. List Free. Lake Rd., Windermere. ENGLISH LAKES. Worthing PRINCIPAL HOUSE and ESTATE AGENTS. JORDAN & COOK. 'Phone 142. 8o Colleges and Schools Colleges Schools. EDINBURGH. STRflTHE^lRn COLLEGE HIGH-GLASS PRIVATE COLLEQB OF COOKERY and all DOMESTIt ARTS. For the Daughters of Gentlemen. 5 Boarding Honses. Individual Practical Training:. Diplomas Awarded. Playing Fields 20 acres of Pleasure Groimds. Motoring. Gardening. Poultn\ Bees. Catering. Social Entertainments. Illustrated Prospectus from Miss MITCHELL, Principal. EDINBURGH. ST. LEONARDS (Branch of Strathearn College), NEWINGTON. Training College of Gardening, Poultry-keeping, Dairying, dc, for Gentlewomen. Students may take Short Courses of 3 months, or the two years' train- ing for the R.H.S. and other Certificates. TERMS.— Fees, Board and Resi- dence, £40 for 3 months- Fees alone, £12 12s. Illustrated Prospectus from Miss POLLARD, Principal. Oban-ST. ANNE'S. -A RESIDENTIAL SCHOOL for Girls of aU ages, Beautifully situated on the Hill, overlooking the Bay. Climate mild and equable. Thorough and complete Educa- tion, with home life and training. Individual care. Out-of-door games and pursuits. This School is specially adapted and recommen- ded for children from abroad. Entire charge. Boys received in Jun ior School. Prospectus, &c., from Miss MURRAY, Principal. RYDE (1. of W.) GRAMMAR SCHuOL- Sound Modern Public School Education. Boys prepared for Universities, Professions and Commercial Life. Junior School, ages 5 to ii. Senior School up to 19 years. Playini; Fields. Educational Films. For Illustrated Prospectus apply to • 'Phone Ryde 229. HEADMASTER. ■Boys between the ag« of 6 and 14^ years pre- Magnificent Situation. YENTNOR, I.W.-BELMONT SCHOOL." pared for Public Schools and Royal Navy. Thone Ventnor 127. Rev. A. E. KIRKLAND, M.'A. (Headmaster), ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL for Diseases of the Skin 49, LEICESTER SQUARE, W.C.2, and 262, UXBRIDGE RO.AX), VV.12. Patroness Her Majesty The Queen President The Earl of Chesterfield, K.G. Nearly a Thousand Patients receive treatment at this Hospital every week. THE ART OF HEALING COSTS MONEY. ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS ARE AN URGENT NECESSITY. We appeal to readers to extend their Sympathy and their HELP to this deserving Charity. Patients seen at 49, Leicester Square, every afternoon at 2 and every evening, except Saturday, at 6. George A. Arnaudin, Secretary, 'Phone Gerrard 5580. 49, Leicester Square, W.C.2. Tomato Catsup Ask for it at your hotel. When taking your hoHday at the Seaside it will add to your enjoyment if you have G D Catsup with your fish or meat. AT ALL GROCERS AND STORES. Simply ash your Grocer for a bottle of GD TOMATO CATSUP r II Photo by J. Reade, Parkstone ^ ft 4 ULMJUMJ ^ 1 g » g « H 1 JLEJLJI M ■ M « KX XX HOUSE AGENTS BOURNEMOUTH. REBBEC ROS. Offices— GERVIS PLACE BOURNEMOUTH AND COUNTY GATES WESTBOURNE- Particulars of all available proper* ^ Boumemoiilh and surrounding Country. ESTABLISHED m4K rryinry ir^B MKgw»gg¥g»wifgfit»gw »--:^^->r- '5)^51 r^'-^i--" ; L