Class J)QG)J5 Book. (] 34: . COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT uy- 137 THE PLAN BOOK SERIES A LITTLE JOURNEY TO Belgium and Denmark FOR HOME AND SCHOOL, INTERMEDIATE AND UPPER GRADES XoA BY MARIAN M. GEORGE h CHICAGO A. FLANAGAN COMPANY 1]Y 6f3f THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, Two Cowes Received JUL 3 1902 EIIQHT ENTRY O^XXa No COPY B. / Copyright, 1902 By A. FLANAGAN COMPANY A Little Journey to Belgium. i Our journey this month will be to the M**, "land of the wooden shoe/' the very *SEJfl^ tiniest country of all Europe. Looking "•3?"^ ** on our map we find it wedged in between France, Germany, and Holland, but with its northern and northwestern coasts washed by the waters of the North Sea. Its greatest breadth east and west is one hundred and sixty miles. Its greatest length is one hundred and fifteen miles. But though it has an area of only 11,323 square miles, it has a population of nearly seven millions, which makes it the most densely populated country of Europe. In some parts of the country the people are like bees in a swarm. One wonders how they all get a living. The houses are scattered so thickly over the country, and the towns are so close together, that it seems like one city with numberless suburbs. The lowlands of Belgium strongly resemble Holland, Here we have beautiful green fields and gardens sepa- rated by canals and ditches. Huge windmills, gaily painted, are as active in draining, pumping, grinding, sawing and pounding as though working for Holland. Besides agricultural pursuits, many of the people are largely engaged in making the earth yield up her store of coal and iron, for Belgium has a mining region that covers an area of 476 square miles. 4 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. Manufacturing is also an important industry. Her table linen, fine and beautifully woven, is known the world over. Her woolen cloths are also of a very supe- rior quality, while in the manufacture of iron and steel, and of exquisite and dainty laces, this little country ranks high. Belgium is further noted for paper fabrics, straw bonnets, flax yarn, porcelain, and sugar refineries. Belgium has been called the "workshop of Europe," and when we travel from town to town and note the factories everywhere rearing their smoke stacks to the sky and filling the air with the din of their machin- ery, we are ready to accept the name. It has good harbors at Antwerp and Ostend that enable it to ship its products and manufactures to other countries. Huge sea canals also enter the land, and railroads form a net-work across the country, so that every sec- tion of this little beehive of a country can get its goods to market. This keeps the commerce of Belgium in a very prosperous condition. Trade is chiefly with France, Holland, Germany, Russia and the United States. ANTWERP. Our first glimpse of Belgian life comes to us at Ant- werp. Some of the great steamship lines from New York have their European terminus there, and it is one of the most important ports on the continent. The city is situated about sixty miles from the sea on the Scheldt River. As our boat takes its winding way up the river, we see the airy spire of the Antwerp Cathedral rising afar off A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 5 before us. By and by, the city appears, and soon we glide along the spacious piers and docks, and the tall, red-tiled houses, while, a few hundred yards farther, the spire of the cathedral rises to give us a welcome. Across the level stretches of smiling country we seethe red roofs of houses and pointed-steeples through screens of trees. Here and there is an old windmill on wooden stilts, and a canal with red-sailed green and black painted barges passing to and fro upon its quiet waters. QUAYS OF ANTWERP. There are forests of masts at the docks, steamers from many nations unloading or anchored in the river. 6 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. Its splendid quays are fairly crowded with steam f coming and going. The name Antwerp means "on the wharf/' 3 wharf is certainly an important part of the cit> But active as the place is, it gives us no idea of what it was three hundred years ago. Then thousands of vessels floated in its harbor and more than five hun- dred arrived and departed every day. Merchants came to this city from all parts of Europe, and more than one thousand foreign firms were rivals in the trade of the port. SIGHTS AND SCENES ABOUT ANTWERP. Antwerp was a city as early as the eighth century. It rose in power until the sixteenth century, when it was recognized as the center of European trade. It then had a population of over two hundred thousand. In those early days trade was a very different thing from what it is in this twentieth century. A vessel loaded with goods was of far more value. Then the seas were' full of pirates, — sea robbers, who were eagerly watching for a chance to wreck the richest vessels. A vessel could not make a long journey in a few days. Then it took weeks or months, all depending on a fair or foul wind. Then there were no steam cars, no telegraphs, no cables. Orders must be sent by a trusty messenger either by boat or horse back. The world was not so full of people then as it is now, and a population of two hundred thousand had a greater significance than it has today. When Napoleon seized Belgium in his iron grip, A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 7 Antwerp was almost dead. It was choked to death by the silt that had lodged in its chief harbor, the mouth of the Scheldt River. Navigation was impos- sible for any but very small boats. Its population had dwindled to forty thousand. Napoleon's eagle eye at once saw the great possibilities for Antwerp. He ordered the river dredged so that large vessels could approach the town. Thus Antwerp was restored to commercial importance, and to-day it ranks as head of all the continental European ports, and has a population of nearly 300,000. Its most important industries are sugar refining, distilling, lace making and ship building. From the ship's peak and the City Hall we see the national flag flying. Its stripes are of red, yellow and black, placed perpendicularly beside each other. The r^:i;^^Miiiii ' -fl T5 "■ ' .i."«r'- "*'*'"'''"' " -^4W*^ RR — . «— s'SB CZZ n CITY HALL AND SQUARE, ANTWERP. 8 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. Belgian national symbol is the standing lion of Bra- bant, with the national motto"Union makes strength," which one sees on all the coins. < Let us walk over to the great square of Antwerp. One side of it is filled by the City Hall. To the right rise quaint and massive old buildings, which have stood for hundreds of years. They will last for hundreds of years to come, probably. They were the old guild halls of trades unions, once so powerful here. In this square is a huge bronze image of the pros- trate giant from which some Belgians claim Antwerp gets its name. This is the way the story runs: "Long ago there was a giant who had his castle by the Scheldt River and laid heavy toll upon all ships and captains passing his castle. The men who would not pay had their hands cut off and thrown into the river. From the giant's custom of casting hands (hand werpen) into the river, Ant- werp got its name. The young hero Brabo, having attacked the castle and killed the giant, cut off his big hand. Here, in bronze, he stands to-day, victorious, holding in his right hand the giant's hand, and about to fling it into the Scheldt. Aloft, on a huge rockery, grouped on which are marine monsters, mermaids hold above their weed- robed heads ancient prowed boats, whereon rests a castle with four towers. On top of all is Brabo, the hero of all the small boys of the place." Antwerp is one of the most picturesque of cities. The streets are crooked, irregular, and lined with mag- nificent trees, stately old houses, magnificent public A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. \) buildings, museums and art galleries. Antwerp is rich in sculpture and paintings, especially those of artists who lived or worked in Belgium and depicted Flemish life. A painting by one of these old Flemish masters has an immense value, especially if it bears the name Rubens, or Van Dyck, or Memling. Antwerp has the largest and most beautiful cathe- dral in all Belgium. It was begun the middle of the fourteenth century and finished about one hun- ANTWERP CATHEDRAL. 10 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. dred and fifty years later. It is five hundred feet long, two hundred and forty feet wide, and has five aisles. Its chief attraction is its magnificent spire of stone and iron that rises to a height of four hundred and two feet. So delicate and exquisite is the carving of this spire that Napoleon compared it to Mechlin lace. The cathedral has a chime of ninety-nine bells. The largest bell is so heavy that it takes a number of men to ring it. Every one who visits Antwerp comes to DESCENT FROM THE CROSS, ANTWERP A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 11 this cathedral to see the famous pictures that adorn its walls. The finest of these is the " Descent from the Cross/' by Rubens. This picture represents the lifeless body of Christ falling from the cross into the arms of his attendants. This is thought to be the masterpiece of Rubens, but there are others almost as famous. One of these is "The Elevation of the Cross." It shows our Savior nail- ed to a tree which the Roman soldiers are raising to plant in the earth. The limbs are streaming with blood, and the body hangs with all its weight on the nails. The face and form are as life-like as that of a living man, and the expression of suffering on the face so real that those who look upon it always turn away with sad- dened, serious faces. When Napoleon took the city he carried these pic- tures to Paris, but after he was overthrown they were returned to Antwerp. Belgium is the land of Rubens, and Antwerp was his home and the treasure house of his triumphs of art. His house, workshop and garden may still be seen, not far from the cathedral, looking much as he left them two hundred and fifty-three years ago. One is awakened the first morning of a stay in Ant- werp by the sound of many bells and voices under his windows. They will not be quiet and let one have another nap. The traveller usually gives up after an effort, leaves his comfortable feather bed and goes to the win- dow for a breath of fresh morning air, or perhaps to see what all the commotion is about. The scene upon which he looks is novel, and one which astonishes him beyond measure. The square 12 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. and streets are full of peasants, with carts and dogs. The carts are full of milk cans, vegetables, wood, crockery, or other articles for sale. To numbers of the carts are harnessed huge dogs, one, two, three, four or five, depending upon the load. The owner usually walks beside the cart, though at times he rides. Sometimes he pushes the cart from behind, and so assists the dog over the hard places. Some- times he helps the dog to pull the load. Occasionally a woman helps the dog to draw the cart, and a lazy- looking man, probably her husband or son, remains comfortably seated inside. Indeed, there seem to be as many or more women with carts than men. And such odd looking women, with brown faces, bare heads, short skirts and wooden shoes. The first thing in the morning comes, not the milk man, but the milk girl, with her gay, green little cart, to leave the milk supply for the day. Milk is not car- ried about in tin cans, or in bottles, as in our own country, but instead in shining brass cans, resting care- fully on beds of straw. The little milk girl in her short blue skirt, bright waist, and wooden shoes, makes a very pretty picture. She is bareheaded winter and summer. Her shoes are many times too large for her, and drop first at heel, then at the toe, so that every step is accompanied by a click, clack, click, clack, as she guides her dogs on her daily route. This little milkmaid and her noble dogs remind us of the beautiful story of "The Dog of Flanders," which we read as the ship brought us to Belgian shores. How well it has described the lives of the poor peas- A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 13 ants, and how much it has helped us to understand them, and the life they lead in this, to us, strange new country! MILK WAGON AND DOGS. The dog is used everywhere as a beast of burden. It takes the place of the donkey in Italy. The tasks it performs are light, almost too light for a horse, and there is little grazing land in Belgium. Only the wealthy people have horses. These are huge animals, and too expensive for the poor peasant to buy and feed. The dogs are patient, hard working fellows and very useful to their masters, but it is not always easy to 14 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. control them. Sometimes they forget their work and dignity and give chase to stray chickens, rabbits or other dogs, regardless of the consequences to the wagons to which they are harnessed. MORNING MARKET. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 15 When they meet in the market place, where they have drawn their milk and vegetable carts, they make the air ring with their howling and barking. Sometimes, when the roving pedler enters a house to sell his wares, the dogs that draw his cart get into a fight with the dogs belonging to the home or neighbor- hood. The owner is then obliged to leave very quickly without making a bargain, and restore peace and order. The laws of the country forbid cruelty to these dumb animals. Dogs below a certain size or age can not be used as beasts of burden. A walk to the docks brings us near to the fish market. "Out of this market pours a motley crowd, — men in blue jerseys, men in red jerkins,men in shirt sleeves, little lads in sailor clothes with bright yellow sabots, women with blue stockings and yellow sabots, or yel- low stockings and black sabots, or black shoes and pink stockings, women in three-cornered shawls, women in long black cloaks." The people remind us of the Dutch, and speak a language that is much like that of the Hollander. THE COUNTRY. Belgium to the west and northwest is as flat and dull as Holland. It cannot boast of beautiful scenery. There are no mountains or hills or valleys. The land is so low that the water, even in summer, is only a few feet below the surface. In winter it covers large tracts of the land. Dikes and sand dunes protect the country from sea and rivers. Canals cross the lowlands in every direc- 16 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. tion. They drain the land and serve the purpose of fences and roadways. There are no swift, rushing streams or noisy brooks, and since there are no streams to turn the mills, the wind is used instead. The long arms of the Dutch windmill mingle with the poplars wherever one looks. The upper part of the mill is a square wooden structure which can be turned around so as to catch the wind; the lower part is circular and stationary, and is made of brick. When working, the arms are covered with canvas. When a good breeze is blowing and the mill is under full sail, the great arms go about at a terrific rate. Many of the larger mills have a boiler attached, so that, when the wind fails, steam is used to turn the mill. The grain is ground in these mills. The public roads are excellent. They are usually made of granite blocks, such as we use to pave the streets of cities in the States. On each side of the road is a deep,wide ditch filled with water. The roads are better for walking than driving. So the traveller in a hurry is apt to be well jolted. Along the country roads we see many amusing scenes. Sometime we meet a little cart drawn by two dogs, galloping to town. In the cart are seated a couple, taking their ease. Sometimes there are three dogs yoked abreast to a single vehicle. One occasionally sees a horse and dog yoked to- gether, pulling a load of grain; or a dog and man in a w r ayside field, hauling a harrow. At times a woman assists the dog with his load. The Belgians are fine farmers and more than half the people are engaged in agriculture. The chief prod- A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 17 ucts besides live stock are grain, flax, hemp, fruit, and sugar beets. Rich crops of corn, wheat, rye and oats are raised. The Flemish flax is said to be the best in the world. So fertile is this low section that it is often called the Garden of Europe. Indeed, the farms seem much more like big gardens than the farms to which we are accustomed. They do not usually contain more than two or three acres, and often not more than one. Every foot of soil is tilled with the utmost care. With the first whisper of spring, the tiny farms are carefully planted with the early spring vegetables. In a very short time, these are ready for market; then the ground is quickly filled with seeds for the summer veg- etables, and these, in turn, give place to autumn crops. Thus, frequently, a small plot of ground is made to pro- duce crop after crop, in the same season, in a way that would amaze our farmers. If there is a tiny strip to spare for a grass plot, the farmer turns his cows to graze upon it. To keep the cows from straying to any other part of the little farm the farmer sends one of his children to watch and guide them. A rope is attached to the beast's horns and the child holds the rope. Sometimes two or three cows are fastened to the same rope. The shepherd must also remain with his sheep con- stantly, to keep them from straying, or falling into the water. The Belgian farmer, as in the olden days, still con- tinues to use old-fashioned tools and hand labor. This is partly because farms are so small that there is no room for the great modern farm implements. 18 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. Here, as in Holland, it is a common sight to see girls and women working in the fields from sunrise to sun- set, ploughing, digging, planting, sowing and reaping in short, doing all kinds of the hardest farm work. . NHH"" if^ifKif* l ■ ^HBn i aBsjgSBm, 9 I, .mmZ& FLEMISH DRAUGHT HORSES. Children often carry the farm produce to market, or to their customers, in the* gayest of little green carts, drawn by beautiful, intelligent dogs. A drive through the country shows us neat, white- washed dwellings, trim fields, and orchards in blossom. The road is bordered with trees. The stone cottages of the farmers are surrounded with large apple orchards hedged in by box, holly or hawthorn. The gardens are gay with flowers that will later be taken to Ghent. The houses are of stone, one story high, A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 19 and roofed with red tile or thatch. They usually contain four rooms, one for dining, one for the dairy and preparing food for the cattle, and the others for sleeping rooms. The walls of the houses are white-washed; the furni- ture is of oak, and it fairly shines with the rubbings and scrubbings it has received. The kitchen utensils of brass and tin are as clean as hands can make them- At the early hour of four in the morning, both men and women are at work in the fields. Their working hours are so long that they have to eat five times a day. Their food is of the simplest, coarsest kind — coffee and black rye bread for breakfast; soup, vegetables, cheese and milk or buttermilk is the fare for other meals. Little meat is used among the poor. If the services of the farmer's wife and children are not required in the fields, they assist in other ways. The wife and grown daughter do lace work, or spin flax. The smaller children watch the cows, sheep, goats or fowls, or bring up hares for the market. The Belgian hare industry is an important one and has been introduced into our own country. The Bel- gian hares or rabbits have been imported to the States in large numbers. From Ostend alone there come to us one million two hundred thousand hares every year. The skins of these animals are used for making hats. The farm laborer does not lead an easy or pleasant life. He works harder than most men. Often he has no plough and tills the ground with a spade. In the evening, after his day's work is done, he hob- bles home in his clumsy wooden shoes that "clatter clatter" loudly on the hard country roads. These 20 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. wooden shoes are worn as much in Belgium as in Hol- land and rural France. Indeed, we are every day reminded that Belgium is really the "land of the wooden shoe." WOMAN'S HEADDRESS. GHENT. About thirty-one miles from Antwerp lies another old Flemish town, Ghent, the capital of Flanders. Like Antwerp it has a rich historical past. Its dark and narrow streets, its lofty houses, fine Gothic buildings, vast Cathedrals, and town halls speak eloquently of a rich past ; while the life on the canals, its excellent harbors, fine shipping facilities and A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 21 the hum of factories tell of the brave effort being made to hold a place in the present century. Many canals and branches of rivers form a network about the city, which is divided into twenty-six islands connected by nearly three hundred bridges. Although, at the present day, it manufactures considerable lace and linen goods, and one linen factory alone employs three thousand persons, yet this is as nothing when compared to the days when Ghent was the capital of old Flanders, the rival of Bruges, the richest city of all Europe. FLOWER MARKET. 22 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. We wander about the pleasant, quiet streets,visit the fine esplanade, where a flower market is held on Sun- day morning, the beautiful Botanical Garden, one of the finest in Europe, well kept gardens, and the sub- stantial quays lined with elegant buildings that make this city so attractive. Yet the greatest charm of the place centers about the old buildings, whose very stones breathe of the past, of heroes and knights. Chief of all is the old belfry, 375 ft. high, from the top of which gleams the "Golden Dragon." Tradition has it that this Golden Dragon was taken from the Church of St. Sophia, at Constantinople, in one of the Crusades, and placed on the spire of the Belfry of Bruges. Do you know the meaning of the word Crusades ? Did you ever read of the Crusaders of old, or that wonderful story of the Children's Crusade, of which Longfellow and others have written ? During a conflict between the rival cities, Ghent was victorious and took from the belfry of Bruges, as a trophy, this Golden Dragon, carrying it to Ghent. There it was placed on their belfry,where it is still do- ing duty. The belfry of Ghent has a chime of forty-four bells. One of these bells has been given the name "Roland." The people of Belgium speak of it as though it were a person. Indeed, they regard it as a hero, for it has tolled and pealed for all the sad and joyous events that have made the history of this famous old town. Upon the bell itself is engraved this inscription, "My name is Roland; when I toll there is fire, and when I ring there is victory in the land." A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 23 When Charles V. of Spain conquered this land after many a hard struggle, made more difficult by the warnings given by Roland, he so hated this bell that he ordered the tongue cut out. Longfellow, in the "Belfry of Bruges," speaks thus: "Till the bell of Ghent responded o'er Jagoon and dyke of sand, I am Roland! I am Roland! there is victory in the land." Throughout Flanders the great town halls with lofty towers and spires stand for the wealth and power that once controlled the Flemish towns. At first the governors of Flanders, appointed by the kings of France, were called Foresters; afterward the title was changed to that of Count. These Counts, who wasted money in wars, in extravagant living, in building castles, were very glad to grant privileges in exchange for gold to their subjects, who were piling up money by manufacture and commerce. As the nobles grew poorer and poorer, the common people prospered. They worked hard in their fields growing flax and in their factories making cloth, so that their products commanded the highest prices at home and abroad. They accumulated riches and power and independence. This they showed by building fine public halls, which were truly splendid, and hanging great bells .in the lofty towers to summon the people for meeting and council. Thus once they stood for municipal and commercial power. Today they are but show places. Another object of great interest is the old Cathedral of St. Bavon. The exterior is not at all attractive, but so beautiful is the interior, that it is worth con- siderable trouble to examine it. St. Bavon is the 24 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. largest Cathedral of Ghent, and is beautifully finished in black and white marble. It is very rich in paint- ings. Tourists travel many miles to visit this church with its priceless treasures. One of the masterpieces is "The Adoration of the Lamb/' painted by two brothers, Jan and Hubert Van Eyck. MORNING IN THE VEGETABLE MARKET. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 25 Another very interesting place to visit in this quaint old town is "The Grand Beguinage or Nunnery of the Beguines." This forms a little town by itself. Here are eighteen convents, a church, and about seven hundred nuns, who are robed in black; but during services in the church they wear white veils, which are removed as they leave the church. The majority of the Belgians are Roman Catholics. There are over 1500 convents with nearly 25,000 in- mates, in this little country. BRUGES. Let us leave delightful Ghent, and make our way to Bruges, now an inland city, eight miles from the ocean, but connected with it by several canals. Bruges gets its name, meaning bridges, from the nu- merous bridges, about fifty-four, which cross the canals. As we approach this city and notice canals cutting the meadows, canals crossing and re-crossing the streets, gay, red and yellow windmills ready for action, moss grown canal boats and dog carts, and odd costumes all about us, we are reminded of Holland. Let us wander about this quiet, quaint, sleepy old town that has a population of less than fifty thousand. We find fine old streets with great empty warehouses; cathedrals and picture galleries richly adorned with fine art treasures; town halls with towers and spires and bells; roomy old dwelling houses with dormer win- dows set in the high steep roofs,and with ornamental and dated gables all of which tell us of old time-grandeur. And as we notice the grass growing undisturbed be- 26 • A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. tween the paving stones, we marvel that this grass-grown city was once one of the chief commercial cities of the world, with a population of over two hundred thousand. For more than three hundred years, Bruges was the center market for all Europe north of the Alps. It was then a seaport. Its harbor was filled with vessels from many ports. Merchants brought silks from Florence; wines from Spain and Italy; fruits from the Mediter- ranean; rich furs from the Baltic; costly treasures of pearls and silk from India; and beautiful fabrics from Arabia. These they were eager to exchange for the fine linen and choice woolen goods, the work of the best spinners and weavers in the world. The citizens of Bruges were rich, proud and inde- pendent, and not only were they richly dressed, but their wives were clothed like princesses, in the finest of velvet and cloth, richly embroidered with gold and trimmings of fur. In 1351, the burgomasters of Bruges and Ghent were summoned to Paris to pay homage to King John. They were received with great pomp and honor and invited to a feast. When about to take their seats at the table, they noticed that no cushions had been provided for them, the Burgomasters of the great- est cities, not only of Flanders, but of the world. Such an indignity must not pass by unrebuked. They folded their beautiful and richly embroidered cloaks and used them as cushions to sit upon. After the fes- tival was over, they left the table, leaving their cloaks folded on the seats. And when told that they had for- gotten their cloaks, the Burgomaster of Bruges an- swered, in his grandest manner, " We Flemings A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 27 are not in the habit of carrying away our cushions." But the pride and the vainglory of those olden days have departed, and nothing is left to tell the tale but ancient structures and works of art. It is said that to- day about one-third of the inhabitants are paupers. From the number of children begging in the streets, one judges that this is true. Many of these children have been trained to beg by parents who are too lazy to work. There is an interesting old cathedral in Bruges called St. Sauveur, adorned with many fine paintings. Near this cathedral is the church of Notre Dame, with a spire 390 feet high. Here is a small statue of the Virgin and child that attracts much attention, as it is said to be the work of Michael Angelo. There is also a mag- nificent monument of Charles 1 the Bold and his daugh- ter Mary, wife of the Emperor Maximilian. On market day the square is filled with country peo- ple, with carts, donkeys and dogs, The carts are long and slender, and are drawn by one horse hitched far ahead. The women wear long, black cloaks with hoods, and every one wears wooden shoes. About the old market place stands the famous old "Belfry of Bruges." This belfry was built in the four- teenth century. It is 350 feet high and has a set of forty-eight bells, which weigh from two up to eleven thousand pounds. In the olden days the chief mission of these bells was to sound an alarm in times of danger. To-day their work is to give out inspiring music. These chimes are among the best in Europe. Their tones vary from the lightest, daintiest, sweetest bird- 28 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. like notes to the heaviest, deepest thundering bass. Every fifteen minutes the chimes ring out — now a sad, solemn hymn, and next perhaps joyous music which makes our feet fairly itch to keep step with it. TOWER WOMAN. We can see these bells and get a view from the top of the belfry, by giving the door-keeper a franc. So we pay our fee and soon stand at the top of the old belfry. Belgium is a land of bells, and fine bells, too. The A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 29 Belgians are said to be as fond of their chimes as the Dutch are of still water. One hears bells con- stantly, everywhere in the country. They are in the steeples of town halls as well as in churches, and in some places ring every seven and a half minutes. The bells of Bruges ring every quarter hour for a minute, and at the end of the hour, try a tune. Machinery grinds out the tune, which is changed once a year. On Sundaj^s in cities a musician chosen by the town plays the chimes. Keys are used for this pur- pose, and the work is very difficult. It is of the Belfry of Bruges that Longfellow wrote — In the market-place of Bruges, Stands the belfry old and brown; Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, Still it watches o'er the town. As the summer morn was breaking, On that lofty tower I stood, And the world threw off the darkness Like the weeds of widowhood. Thick with towns and hamlets studded And with streams and vapors gray, Like a shield embossed with silver, Round and vast the landscape lay. Not a sound rose from the city, At that early morning hour But I heard a heart of iron Beating in the ancient tower. * * * * Then most musical and solemn, Bringing back the olden times, 30 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. With their strange unearthly changes Rang the melancholy chimes, Like the psalms from some old cloister, When the nuns sing in the choir; And the great beli tolled among them Like the chanting of a friar. Visions of the days departed, Shadowy phantoms filled my brain; They who live in history only, Seemed to walk the earth again. I beheld the pageants splendid, That adorned those clays of old;<-._ Stately dames, like queens attended, Knights who bore the Fleece of Gold Lombard and Venetian merchants >-_»-_»j- With deep-laden argosies; Ministers from twenty nations; More than royal pomp and ease. I beheld the Flemish weavers, With Namur and Juliers bold, Marching homeward from the bloody Battle of the Spurs of Gold. Saw the fight at Minnewater, Saw the White Hoods moving west, Saw great Artevelde, victorious, Scale the Golden Dragon's nest. And again the whiskered Spaniard All the land with terror smote; And again the wild alarum Sounded from the tocsin's throat: A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. Till the bell of Ghent responded O'er lagoon and dike of sand, "I am Roland! I am Roland! There is victory in the land!" Then tbe sounds of drums aroused me, The awakened city's roar Chased the phantoms I had summoned Back into their graves once more. Hours had passed away like minutes, And before I was aware, Lo! the shadow of the belfry Crossed the sun-illumined square. OSTEND. 31 FISH SELLERS. From Bruges let us travel to Ostend, the most fash- ionable watering-place in Belgium. Here every sum- mer many Russians, Germans, French, and even the 32 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. English bring their families to spend the warm months of July and August, to enjoy the beach, bathing and oysters. Throughout Europe these oysters are known. Though much smaller than ours, they are said to have a most- delicious flavor. They were originally brought from England and planted in the waters about Belgium. It is not the eysters, however, that delight the children, but the lovely sand. What a good time they have build- ing forts and castles and dykes that the sea washes away with the incoming tide ! Then the joy of paddling with feet bare, and trousers and skirts tucked up; they wish life one long summer holiday, and the earth all sand and water. Ostend is so low that it is protected by a sea wall, an immense structure of brick and stone, three miles long and over one hundred feet in width. This forms a delightful promenade for the many tourists who stop here before crossing to England: Ostend has a good harbor and a line of steamers connects it with Dover and London. This is but a short journey of sixty-eight miles, and takes about four hours. Once upon a time there was no water separating Eng- land from Belgium. One could have walked from one country to the other. But in the course of time the low plains of Europe sank, and the waters of the At- lantic rushed in and covered them, thus forming a bar- rier between England and the rest of Europe. So shallow is this water, that in many places it would be necessary to raise the bed of the sea hardly one hundred feet to make it dry land. Because A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 33 the water is so shallow and the current so fierce, the English Channel and the Straits of Dover are noted for their roughness. Old travelers, who think nothing of crossing the Atlantic, dread this short voyage, for it is sure to be accompanied by that very unpleasant, and yet rarely dangerous malady — seasickness. The southern angle of Belgium is hilly and rich in forests and minerals. Many thousands of men are en- gaged here in mining. Coal and coke are among the leading exports. Belgium yields more fuel than any other country of Europe except England. About one-fifth of the country is covered with for- ests, that lie in the valley of the Meuse and the Arden- nes. The trees are mostly oak and hard wood trees. They furnish charcoal and large quantities of bark for tanning purposes. BRUSSELS. Brussels is not only the capital, but also the largest, most progressive, wide awake town of Belgium, with a population of 561 , 1 30. The city of Brussels stands part- ly on a hill, about 220 feet above sea level, and partly on a plain. It is divided into a lower town, which is the old, historic section, and into an upper or fashionable section. Once upon a time Brussels was protected by walls, which surrounded the city. But walled towns are out of style now, for in case of war the walls would be of no protection; so they have been changed into fine prome- nades lined with rows of beautiful shade trees. In the old or lower town, we find the narrow, crooked streets, with old houses and buildings, many of them bearing a date of the fourteenth century. 34 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 35 As one approaches Brussels the eye is attracted to the great golden dome of the Palais de Justice. This is a new building, and the largest in the world. It cov- ers 270,000 square feet and is surmounted by a marble tower 400 feet high. The golden dome caps the tower. This building cost ten millions of dollars. As the Palais de Justice stands on a hill, it is a con- spicuous object for miles around, especially the dome. The finest shops and buildings are to be found on Boulevard Auspach, that runs through the center of the city. This beautiful street, with its attractive shops and outdoor cafes, reminds us of Paris, and the fact that Brussels is often called "Little Paris." BOULEVARD AUSPACH, BRUSSELS. 36 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. For two or three hours every morning between ten and one o'clock the boulevards are thronged with fash- ionable men, and women with their dogs, and children with nurses. Brussels shops are noted for elegance and attract shoppers from larger cities in other parts of Europe. Nowhere can one find more dainty and exquisite laces, fans, gloves, jewels, and clothing. The shop keepers are extremely polite and anxious to please customers. Perhaps the most interesting building in Brussels is the Hotel de Ville or City Hall. It is one of the most beautiful of the kind in Belgium. On the top of its tall pyramidal tower is a statue of St. Michael. The famous ball which occurred on the eve of the battle of Waterloo, was held in this hall. Lord Byron has told us of it in his poem "The Eve of Waterloo." In front of the hall is a square known as the Grand Place. It is one of the finest old squares in existence, and occupies an important place in Belgian history. It has been the scene of many a revolution and of much bloodshed. In 1568 twenty-five nobles were be- headed here by the order of the Duke of Alva. But the square is a quiet and peaceful place now, and on market days it is an interesting place to visit. In this place, once a week, between six and nine in the morning, the flower market is held. The air is then scented with the odors of lovely lilies and other flowers. The country people cultivate flowers for a livelihood and on the market days flock here in crowds to dispose of their produce. One of the most magnificent buildings in Brussels A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 37 is its Bourse,or Stock Exchange, which cost two million dollars. Its elegant sculptures, statues and columns remind us of the Paris Opera House. THE BOURSE, BRUSSELS. The finest Cathedral is St. Gudule, built in 1270. It is famous for its many statues and painted windows and its magnificent pulpit. Like most of the pulpits of Belgium and Holland, it is of carved wood, but this one is of exceeding beauty. The center group repre- sents Adam and Eve as they are driven out of the garden of Eden; just above is Mary, the mother of Christ, crushing the serpent (always symbolical of evil) by means of the cross. Another object of interest is the Martyrs' Monu- 38 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. ment, erected in 1838 to the memory of those who fought so valiantly in 1830 to free Belgium from Holland. This union, formed in 1814,was not liked by Belgium, but it was not until 1831 that the separation was effected. The Martyrs' Monument commemorates the battle that brought about the separation of these two little countries. Another recent historical monument is the Column PALACE OF THE KING. of Congress, erected in memory of the establishment of the present constitution, with Leopold I. as King of Belgium. This tall, stately Column is 147 feet high, A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 39 and is finished at the top by the statue of the king. Leopold I. died in 1865 and his remains were placed in the royal burial vault of St. Mary at Dacken. Leopold II. succeeded his father. Under his reign the country has enjoyed peace and prosperity. Near the park of Brussels stands the Royal Palace, the residence of the royal family of Belgium. It is not a beautiful building, but is furnished with elegance. Belgium is a kingdom. It is ruled by a king and two chambers, the senate and the chamber of repre- sentatives, both elected by the citizens. Leopold II. is much respected and beloved by the majority of his subjects. He is an intelligent, liberal, progressive sovereign. It would be hard to find in Europe a better governed nation than Belgium. The Mannekin Fountain is always an object of inter- est to travelers, and is a favorite with the Brussels people also. This is a statue which is dressed up in a fine costume on festival days. It is said to have eight different suits, one for each special festival. It has a servant appointed by the city officials, at a salary, and this servant attends to his statue master, when he finds a change of costume necessary. The country is noted for its lace trade. The lace made at Brussels, Mechlin and Bruges is famous. Before we leave the place we must visit the lace makers that make what is known as the Brussels lace. This is considered by many as the most beautiful lace made by hands. Some patterns are so delicate and intricate that it takes many years to complete a single piece. When finished, it is valued as high as five hundred dollars a yard. 40 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. The lace workers of Europe work early and late and receive very small pay for their difficult labor. In order to protect the work from dust, these lace work- ers sit in very damp rooms. They strain their eyes so greatly from watching the fine threads as they weave them in and out, that they become blind when quite young. Yet many yards are bought and sold each year. This fine hand lace is made on pillows. Every one must have her own-pillow, for two people can not work on the same piece of lace. The pattern is marked out on the pillow wjth pins, and the worker winds the threads over and under, in and out and around among the pins, with infinite care and patience. Many kinds of threads are sometimes needed for one piece of lace. Sometimes this thread is almost as fine as cob web, and it takes weeks or months, or even years, to make a single piece of lace, or one lace garment. Many of the exquisite lace gowns worn by the very rich are made in poverty stricken homes, where the workers sit, in rooms as damp as cellars to do their work. While Brussels is a bright, cheerful, attractive place, it has its poor quarter as well as other cities. In these places we find people wretchedly housed and clothed. The children wander about dirty and ragged, and receive little attention from their parents. The mother has no time to spare for the little ones. She must toil all day at lace making to get money for bread. The father works at articles made of pasteboard, but his wages are too small to enable the family to live. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 41 As soon as the children are old enough they too must begin to work. In the homes of the well-to-do there is usually a pleasant living apartment back of the reception and dining rooms. This is partly enclosed by glass, and banked with palms and growing plants. It has a tile floor, rugs, piano, lounges, easy chairs and tables. The houses are, many of them, rich in rare old china, fine paintings, carved furniture,hand- wrought iron and brasses. THE BELGIANS. On arriving in Belgium we hear the people speaking a strange tongue resembling Dutch, but called Flemish, and we conclude that this must be the native tongue. Yet we find later that only about half the population speak this language. French is the language of the country, in court and official circles, and is used by the majority of the people. In the southern part of the country the people are more like the French and use their language almost entirely. In northern Belgium the people are more like the Dutch and Germans, and speak Flemish. The true meaning of the word Flemish is " dialect of Flanders." Many centuries ago Flanders was an important territory, that included the provinces of East and West Flanders in Belgium, a small part of Holland, and a portion of France. For many years Flanders was most rich and prosper- 42 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 43 ous, and exerted considerable influence on commerce, literature and art. The people in some parts of Belgium dress like the Hollanders. The girls wear gaily embroidered bodices, blue or red skirts, buckled shoes, ear rings, necklaces, or quaint headdresses. This headdress consists of a helmet of gold, silver or other metal, a lace cap and a bonnet. The men and boys wear small caps, bright jackets, wide baggy trousers, black stockings, wooden shoes or shoes with buckles. The people in Brussels dress, look and act much like the people of Paris. The Belgian people are very polite, social, hospitable and ceremonious. At breakfast and on saying good night one must shake hands all around. Bowing is a serious and important ceremony, and there is a great deal of it. The people never seem to be in a hurry. They al- ways have time to stop and chat or to entertain friends. The Belgians love music. No company is complete without it. Each member of a family is usually taught to use some musical instrument. They have many musical clubs and contests, and the cities and towns are supplied with bands that furnish music in the parks on holidays. Art is much thought of, and Belgium is a country where many artists have originated. The " Winter Salon" in the King's Park is an annual event, and a most interesting one, to the visitor to Brussels, as well as to the citizen. It originated in this way. A Burgomaster of Brus- 44 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. sels wanted money for the poor. So, when a heavy snow storm came, it brought a happy thought to him. He summoned all the sculptors of the city and their pupils and laid before them his plans. The park was turned over to them to decorate, and in a day or two was opened for the charity show. Crowds of people came out of curiosity, and this is what they found — snow tramps sleeping on benches, snow priests lounging about with books, snow police- man talking to snow nurserymaids on benches, while neglected snow babies cried. There were snow Punch and Judy shows, snow musicians, and snow animals. Statues of well known citizens were also to be seen, and even the King's effigy was there. Money poured in as the result of the entertainment, and every 3^ear since the artists of the city have given their time and talent to make a similar enter- tainment successful. The public schools of Belgium arefree,and are attended by children when quite young. They receive very careful instruction in the religion, history and geography of their own country. In the rest of the world they take but little interest. Very likely they think of the United States as a place famous for Indians and buffaloes. But touch on their own country, and they will readily tell you how Belgium has suffered from being an arena for the fights and quarrels of the rest of Europe. They hate the name of Philip II. of Spain,who brought so much trouble and rebellion to their country. They can tell you why monuments have been erected to Egmont and Horn, the heroes who were so cruelly executed by the Duke of Alva. They know all about A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 45 o Y-, w o W 46 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. the Austrian Rule. And they will refer you to Ant- werp, the largest sea-port of Belgium, for at least one good work of Europe's enemy, Napoleon. It is the harbor. Especial attention is paid to drawing. The children are allowed to draw pictures for an hour every day, and if any pupil shows talent in this direction, he is sure to receive help and encouragement. The girls in school wear black aprons to keep their dresses clean, and make them look like other pupils. This practice is intended to keep the pupils from con- trasting the clothes of the poor with those of the more richly dressed. Thursday afternoon is a half holiday, as in France, and this is the happiest day in the week for the school children. Often the teacher accompanies her pupils to the park and joins in the games, or sees that no harm comes to the small pupils. The children are taught from their very babyhood to be polite, obliging, and useful to those about them. AMUSEMENTS AND HOLIDAYS. Six days of the week the Belgian people work, and work hard, but the seventh they devote to their church and to amusements. Sunday morning is kept as with us. All attend church. But the afternoon is devoted to pleasure. It becomes a joyous holiday. In the summer, picnics and excursions are numerous. Whole families, not the children alone, as is so often the case here in America,but also father and mother, go together for a day's pleasure in the woods or on the river. The favorite holiday in Belgium as in Holland is "Ker- A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 47 mess." This is a great fair, that is held in summer at different places all over the country. Tents are erected for all sorts of shows and exhibitions; giants and dwarfs, skeletons and fat people, and many other curious freaks of nature may be seen for a few cents. A gypsy, telling fortunes, always draws a crowd about her tent. The shooting galleries and the circus draw both big and little boys, while the girls seek the swings and the merry-go-rounds. There are tents where all sorts of things are for sale; good things to eat and drink; but chief of all the dainties is ginger-bread. Ginger-bread is regarded by the children of Belgium and Holland just as the American child regards pop- corn, as a sweet to be devoured on all. festive occasions. Nowhere else will you see such quantities' of ginger- bread; as one traveller says, "it is for sale by the foot, yard, rod, pole or perch." It is shaped like every animal that ever came out of a Noah's ark. Ginger- bread baked in every known and unknown form is de- voured by the ton and by both native and tourist. The first of May is always celebrated with a festival, when the people flock out into the country to gather flowers and secure green boughs. Easter is celebrated by egg-giving, as in our own coun- try. On the Sunday before Whitsuntide the children get up very early in the morning. The one who is dressed first goes to the different bedrooms, knocks and calls out "Lazy Loon, sleepy head, lie abed ; don't get up till noon." The last member of the family to rise is required to give to the others a hot bun, which must be ready for this particular morning. 48 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. St. Valentine's day is remembered too, and on that day the postman's bag bulges with missives, pretty or CHILDREN IN THE PARK. A LITTLE JOUKNEY TO BELGIUM. 49 comici On April first the shop windows are full of fishes of many forms, colors and materials. Some are of papier-mache, others of chocolate,sugar, ginger-bread, ice, silver or porcelain. Every one sends fish to friends. At New Year's friends send New Year's cards to each other, or exchange visits and gifts; addresses or petitions are presented to the King, and decorations are dispensed by the government. Not many weeks after New Year's comes the carni- val, a season of mummeries, parties, street processions and fun. This festival lasts several days. The com- mon people disguise themselves in masks and fantastic costumes ; flowers and candy are thrown from balconies to streets and back again . Gay songs are sung and ridic- ulously dressed figures cut antics as they play. On Ash Wednesday all this gaiety is stopped. The people attend church in black or dark garments and leave the building with a heavj^ black cross stamped on their foreheads. This is worn twenty-four hours. Santa Claus or St. Nicholas is the patron saint of the children. He arrives on a white pony December 6. The children provide turnips, carrots and hay for the good steed. If they have been good the hay and vegetables disappear from the basket and gifts and toys are left. Sometimes Saint Nicholas sends his presents in disguises or hidden in pumpkins, cabbages or vegetables of some kind. Sometimes a rod is sent in place of presents. All day during the 6th of December, children with dolls and drums parade the boulevards. To the poor alms are given, and to the servants, curious gingerbread 50 A. LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. figures. For days before Christmas, the streets are crowded. The sidewalks are so narrow that they can- not accommodate the people. They overflow into the streets. At Christmas every house has its tree, or at least a branch of evergreen. The tree is lighted on Christmas eve, Christmas candles are burned and hymns are sung to the Christ child. On Christmas eve the bells clang everywhere, and long processions, headed by little children, go to mass. Children strew the streets with flowers and cut frag- ments of colored paper until the rough paving stones are covered with red, blue, green and white scraps. The children in the processions are of all ages, from the tiny child just able to sing, to young ladies. Some of the companies of girls are clad in blue, others in pink, lilac or white, but all bear some emblem or badge, or assist in bearing some shrine or crucifix or group of images, by grasping the ends of one of the hundreds of bright ribbons that are attached to the central figures. As they march, bands of music beat and blow their best. When the band ceases, the priests chant in deep voices, and they in turn are followed by the singing of children, arranged by schools. There are chariots, too, bearing gigantic crucifixes and images, chariots resplendent with a lavish display of cloths of gold and silver. But the prettiest sight of all is a beautiful little boy clad in a camel's hair garment, carrying a tiny cross, and leading a white lamb by a blue ribbon. He is the representative of John the Baptist. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 51 52 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. The peasants bare their heads reverently as this procession sweeps by, and watch and wait patiently in the cold, keen air, for the last of the procession. And by and by it comes, in the form of a dignitary of the church. He is as splendid as jewels and gold embroidery and rare old lace can make him. He walks beneath a gorgeous baldaquin of gold and purple, and is sur- rounded by chanting priests and preceded by scarlet capped and white robed acolytes. They are swinging weighty censers under a canopy of state, that is borne over his head by four strong men. It is a magnificent procession, and one never to be forgotten by a visitor to Belgium. WATERLOO. Belgium's central position has made it the "Battle- field of Europe." It has been the object of many wars, belonging to Austria, Spain, France and Holland. Within its borders the nations of Europe have fought out their quarrels for hundreds of years. Just below Brussels lies Waterloo, a beautiful plain, where one of the decisive battles of the world was fought in 1815. "In that world's earthquake, Waterloo," the allied forces of Great Britain, Prussia and the Netherlands, under command of Wellington and Blucher, united to overthrow Napoleon and France. For twenty years this monarch had kept all Europe in a turmoil of feverish anxiety by his plans and schemes to get control of all Europe, and thus found the greatest of all earthly empires, an empire that should far surpass anything that the world had ever known. So great A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. 53 was his ambition that lives were nothing to him. His wonderful force of character, that had raised him from a poor Corsican boy to be head of the great French na- tion, his military skill, and the compelling way that he had of making men serve him, made all Europe fear his power, and tremble. But here on the plains of Waterloo Napoleon lost all, and the French army was defeated and humiliated. After this battle, France was made to pay about one hundred and forty millions of dollars for the expenses of the war. And all the beautiful works of art and liter- ature that Napoleon had seized were restored to their rightful countries and owners. It had been Napoleon's custom, when he conquered a place, to seize the works of art and send them to Paris. Less than an hour's ride by train takes us to the bat- tlefield, that is now covered with green or cultivated by the thrifty Belgian farmers. There is little to remind one that a terrific struggle took place here, except a hill thrown up in the center of the field as a monument. On the top of this hill is a great lion, the emblem of Belgium. It was molded from the cannon left upon the field of Waterloo, and marks the spot where the Prince of Orange fell. Another monument marks the spot where the Prussian forces fell, and another the memory of the brave German soldiers who perished in this fight. The battle of Waterloo was dearly won. The French loss was 18,500 killed and wounded, and that of the Opposing armies 16,000. But the victory put an end forever to the power of Napoleon, and restored peace to the world. 54 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM. MARSENET OR ALTENBERQ. On the boundary line between Prussia and the Netherlands lies the smallest country in Europe. It is Marsenet or Altenberg, a territory governed by the Belgians and Prussians together. The district contains but two and a half square miles. The territory was declared independent in 1815 to set- tle the dispute when the boundary line was fixed be- tween Germany and Belgium. Both countries wanted the country for its rich zinc mines. It now pays a tax to each of them. The village is situated in a beautiful valley, which boasts a lake and the ruins of an old castle. The peo- ple are well to do, and engage principally in zinc min- ing and hat making. A Little Journey to Denmark AND HER COLONIAL POSSESSIONS. Denmark now occupies a very small and insignificant part of the map of Europe, but the time was when it ranked among the most important and powerful na- tions of the north. The Danes have always loved the sea, and are among the finest and most daring seamen of the world. Great numbers of them serve as sailors on British and other foreign vessels. Their love of adventure has led them to explore many foreign lands, and to plant the Danish flag in some of them. Denmark's dominion at one time extended over Nor- way, Sweden, England, and a part of Germany. But she has suffered from many wars and defeats, and these countries have been taken away from her. Her soldiers were not lacking in bravery, but the armies of so small a nation could not compete with the greater ones of Europe. Of her colonial possessions only Greenland, the Faroe Islands, the West India Islands, Santa Cruz, St. John, St. Thomas, and Iceland remain. Iceland is a dependency. Denmark proper now consists of the northern part of the peninsula of Jutland and a number of outlying islands. The principal ones lie to the east between Jutland and Sweden, and almost fill the entrance to the Baltic Sea. 56 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. The peninsula contains the greatest area of territory, but the islands are the most important part of the Kingdom. The country is almost as flat as Holland. There are no mountains. Only the islands of Denmark and the southeastern part of the peninsula are fertile and productive. The western coast is low and shut in by sand bars. There are no good harbors. Denmark has but one im- portant seaport with a harbor that admits large ships. That one is Copenhagen on Zealand Island. To reach this port ships sail about the peninsula into the sound which separates the island of Zealand from Sweden, or go by way of the German canal, through the southern part of the peninsula. JUTLAND. The peninsula of Jutland extends north from the northern boundary of the German Empire to Skagen. Here it ends in a low, barren, sandy point. The waters at this point take the name of Skagerack. This part of the coast is dreaded by the sailors be- cause of the fierce storms ships often encounter there. So many vessels were formerly lost on this point of land that the coast at times was strewn with the wrecks. A light house now stands on the point to warn seamen of their danger. Germany has recently built a canal across the south- ern part of the peninsula, that will make the long, dangerous voyage around the peninsula unnecessary for many ships. Let us stop at Jutland first. We can land at Esb- jerg on the western coast,and take a run across and up through the northern country by rail. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 57 Esbjerg is a busy town, with a fine new harbor from which Danish farm produce is exported to England. It has a number of large factories and fine homes, but is not an interesting place, and we do not remain long. FANO. A short sail in a small steamboat takes us to the little island of Fano, near by. Fano is one of the few places that cling to ancient habits and customs. The people there live very much as they did hundreds of years ago, and for that reason possess an unusual in- terest to travellers. FANO GIRLS. Nordby on Fano is a quaint fishing town, with nar- row streets, low red houses and small fenced gardens. Its women wear a peculiar costume; a full dark- colored skirt with a broad green border, a tight fitting 58 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. bodice and a many colored kerchief around the head. They are also given to wearing numbers of skirts of different colors that give them a bulky appearance. Crossing the island to the North Sea we find great stretches of sand hills covered with wrack-grass. These tracts are called downs. At first we see no houses, but by and by the ridge of a house appears from beyond the hillocks, then a tower, a building,and finally a castle. Beyond this building loom others , rows of handsome homes and villas. The men of the island are seamen or fishermen, and the women do the work of the fields and households. But while willing to work hard, they are not willing to spoil their fine complexions! And so, to protect them- selves from the wind and sun, they wear black face coverings. The same custom is followed at Skagen and at Agger, other islands of Denmark. We have arrived at Fano Nardsobad, the North Sea watering place of Fano. It is a large, fashionable bath- ing place, off the western coast of Jutland. It has a fine beach, sloping smoothly down to the sea. On the beach and the terraces are ladies in elegant costumes. Others are seated in basket chairs or tents, or walking about. There are green bathing machines and swarms of bathers, and every one appears to be having a very gay time. Children build castles in the sand and wade to their hearts' content. Many of these people belong to noble or wealthy Danish and foreign families who come to spend part of every year in this pleasant health resort. Some of them own the villas we just passed. Others live at the great hotels near the beach. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK, 59 GLIMPSES OF JUTLAND. From Fano we return to the mainland and take a train at Esbjerg for Kolding, a two hours' ride across country . At first our journey takes us through quiet, barren, heathery moors and sandhills; but everywhere in east- ern Jutland the eye is met by well tilled fields with picturesque manor houses and large wealthy villages. Kolding is a quaint and beautiful old place, remark- able for the ruins of an old royal castle almost destroyed by a fire. The scenery about the town is very fine, giving one glimpses of water, ravines, hills and woods. Many there are who come here to N enjoy the good sea- bathing. A JUTLAND TOWN The northern part of Jutland is a barren, sandy waste. The soil is poor and yields but scanty crops to the farmer. There are many sand hills, the sand from 60 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. which is carried by storms from the coast far inland.' These sand storms are a source of great annoyance to the farmers near the coast, as their crops are often destroyed by them. To keep the sands from blowing and shifting about, the people plant a kind of grass with long fine roots, and trees and shrubs to break the force of the wind. At one time there was a town on the northern part of the penin- sula, but the sand storms drove the people away, and to-day their homes are completely buried. In the northern and western part of the country large beds of turf or peat are found. The peat is cut out in square blocks, dried and used for fuel. Denmark has neither coal nor metal. The only mineral product is A GLIMPSE OF A DANISH HOME. . . ' , a clay used in the manufacture of porcelain. This has become an im- portant industry. i A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 61 Much of the land that is not cultivated is used for grazing purposes. Suppose we visit some of the homes of the farmers in Northern Denmark. A few of them are well-to-do, but most of them are poor. The farmers on the coast add to their income by fishing as well as farming. The houses are low, but one story high, and are cov- ered with straw roofs. A thick matting of green moss sometimes covers the roof. The floors are of clay; pounded hard and smooth. This does away with the necessity for scrubbing, you see. Let us enter a farm house. The door is so low that a man would need to stoop while en- tering. The ceil- ing is but a few inches above our heads. The floor is of clay. The room is furnished with benches and a hand loom. The next room we enter is the sitting room. The furniture is very simple— chairs, a table, benches, and a bed. The room is heated by a cast iron stove in which a peat fire is burning. From the sitting room we pass to a small kitchen, and from this to another room used as a MARKET SQUARE IN A JUTLAND TOWN 62 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. stable. The farmer keeps his cattle, sheep, pigs and poultry here. There are pots of flowers in the windows of some of the farm houses. On the chimneys or roofs storks build their nests. One village we visit seems almost like a Dutch town. The houses are neat and trim, and have gardens sur- rounded by hedges: The houses are sometimes decor- *ated with carved figure heads, relics perhaps of vessels wrecked off the coast. Through the cottage doors we can see a display of old Delft crockery. ZEALAND. We leave the north and approach the island of Zea- land, the largest and most important of the Danish isles. On the northern point of its coast is the town of Elsinore, formerly a most important place. Its beau- tiful imposing old castle of Kronborg, with turrets, spires and cannon on ramparts, guards the entrance to the sound. It is very narrow, being but a little more than a mile wide in one place, but through it pass most of the ships that carry on trade with Scandinavia, Russia and North Germany. Every visitor wishes to see the old castle,from which the Danish flag floats. It is a little way from the town on the point of land nearest Sweden. It has thick walls, massive towers and deep moats. This was the home of Hamlet, Prince of Denmark, the hero of one of Shakespeare's plays, and his ghost is still said to wander on its ramparts. There are many interesting legends connected with the place, that visitors are sure to be told. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 63 Down in the deepest vault, behind walls which none can penetrate, is supposed to live Holger Danske, the nation's hero. He has slept a thousand years, and while sleeping his white beard has grown fast to the stone table, at which he has sat. But some day, they say, he will awake, tear his beard from the table and wield his sword again for his country. The dungeons are greatly feared, as they have been regarded for ages as the abode of ghosts and demons. It is thought that they object to the presence of the living, for it is said that no person venturing into their gloomy depths ever returns. KRONBORG CASTLE At one time no one could be found who would enter the dungeons, and so for years they were left deserted and alone. But one day a slave condemned to death 64 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. (so the story goes) was offered his liberty if he would consent to enter the dungeon and return to tell what he had seen and heard. The slave accepted the offer and descended to the lowest depths, encountering such fearful sights as made his blood run cold. Shrieks and moans of spirits and the howls of demons met his ears. But he bravely kept on his way until he came to the last dungeon. Opening the door, he beheld a strange spectacle. A company of knights in armor was seated around a long table, with their heads dropped forward and covered with their hands. At the end of the table was seated Holger Danske. The knights seemed to be sleeping, but on hearing the slave at the door they raised their faces and turned them toward the stranger. The hero greeted him kindly, and asked him how affairs were progressing with the nation. He seemed glad to know that all was well, and offered his hand to the slave as a token of his esteem. The frightened man hesitated, not knowing what the consequence would be of a hand shake with the knight with an iron glove. He finally held out an iron bar, and it proved a lucky thing that he did so, for the knight gripped it so tightly that the marks of his iron fingers were left upon it. He was allowed to leave the place in peace, however, and return to the upper world with his wonderful story . To prove its truth he carried with him the iron bar, and, to those who doubted, pointed to those marks on the iron. At the time the castle was erected both sides of the sound belonged to Denmark. Kronborg stood sentry at the gates of the Kingdom. It controlled the gate A LITTLE JOURNEY TO- DENMARK. 65 into the Baltic Sea and made all ships passing pay a toll or tax. It protected the town, and its soldiers took care that the ships paid the sound dues. All ships were obliged to stop and their captains had to go ashore. Those were merry days in Elsinore. Through its streets rolled the carriages of the consuls of every country in Europe. But now all is changed. The sound duties were removed in 1857, and Den- mark no more collects tribute. The sound is now free for the ships of all nations and -Elsinore is visited only by strangers interested in Danish history. Close by the castle, on a slope in a park, is Hamlet's grave. All foreigners come to see it and the prome- nade to it is a favored one in summer. Leaving Elsinore we pass into the smooth and shel- tered waters of the sound. Along the coast of Zealand are countless country homes and villages, and be- hind them stretch forests of beech trees. THE HARBOR. Making our way among steamers of every size, ply- ing in all directions, we now pass through the narrow entrance to the harbor of Copenhagen. The custom house is on the right and the anchorage on the left. In a little box on the custom house pier is a harbor officer, who hails each one of the outward and inward bound ships. After standing and listening to his ques- tions and the answers he receives, one has a very good idea of the close daily communication between England and Denmark. Every second person seems to be go- ing to or coming from England. 66 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. Danish farming produce, butter, pork, eggs, corn, etc., is daily sent to England. English vessels are bringing coal to Denmark. About 35,000 sailing ves- sels and steamers pass the watchman on the custom house pier every year. Ship building is an important industry of Denmark. We can visit the ship yards while here. THE PORT OR HARBOR OP COPENHAGEN Copenhagen means "merchants' haven" and its name seems to fit it very well indeed. The harbor is full of ships, flying the colors of many nations. On the wharves are sailors and merchantmen and crowds of laborers loading and unloading the vessels. Goods are piled everywhere and granaries line the wharves. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 67 THE CITY. The city is built on two islands with an arm of the sound between. The larger part of the city lies on the island of Zealand, the other on the island of Amager. The streets are narrow, but well paved and clean. Many of them have canals, and it seems odd to see the masts of the boats lying in them, rise up above and be- tween the houses. It reminds us of the streets of Hol- land. A BUSY STREET. The houses are of brick or stone, with red tiled roofs, and look very new and clean. Much of the city looks as if only recently built. There seem to be no wretched, 68 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. overcrowded, unclean streets or tenement houses, so common in other European cities and in America. The shops or stores are built over basements, so that when we go shopping we must go upstairs or to the second floor. At first we wonder how the place is kept so clean, but learn that it is an ancient custom for every house- holder to see to the sweeping of the street and pave- ment in front of his own place. Several times a day the asphalt is brushed. The streets are swept by paupers. They make a very quaint appearance as they sally forth in their black clothes and wooden shoes, each carrying an im- mense watering can and a huge broom. It is a pleasant city in which to drive or ride. The tramway cars are clean and comfortable, the horses are fine and the cabs large and roomy. Electric boats are used on the lakes. There are a number of high towers in different parts of the city, where one may secure a fine view. We select the Round Tower of Trinity Church, as that is the most noted of all. The ascent is by way of a covered road which is carried upward in a spiral to the sum- mit. At the topis a great dome, commanding a pros- pect of all the country lying round about. From the top of the tower we can see the most im- portant buildings of the city, and beyond it great for- ests of beech trees; green, flat meadow lands; canals, the blue waters of the sound and sea, and even the dis- tant shores of Sweden. Copenhagen consists of an old and a new part, as does the city of Paris. Boulevards skirt the old town, A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 69 replacing the ramparts and the picturesque moats the still waters of which reflect the fine old trees bordering them. In the principal streets, between two and four o'clock, the ladies of the city may be seen shopping and taking their daily walk. One great street runs through the city from east to west. It is Frederiksberg, one of the principal promenades, and the finest avenue in the city. On a summer Sunday, this ave- nue is crowded with inhabitants of the garrets and basements of the poorer streets of Copenhagen. In the most fashionable place of residence in the city, Bredgage, we find the palace of King George of Greece, part of which is the town house of Prince and Princess Charles of Denmark. Near this street are Amalienborg Square and Castles, U S. CONSULATE. 70 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. the residence of the royal family. A more handsome square hardly exists in Europe. In the middle is the bronze statue of King Frederick V. Every day when the king is at Amalienborg Palace, the band of the Royal Life Guard plays in the square. Members of the royal family may then be seen at the Palace windows listening to the music. Sometimes the gates open and a royal carriage with scarlet liver- ied servants drives out into town. In the immedi- ate neighborhood are many buildings of interest. Among them Frederick's Church and hospi- tal, the surgeons' hall, the Russian Church, and the Danish Parliament buildings in the Palace of Chris- THE KING'S GUARD AND FREDERICK'S CHURCH. tianborg. The Danes have a king, but they have also a Con- gress called the Rigsdag. The Rigsdag makes the laws and taxes the people. Among all the buildings of the city the place of honor must be given to the magnificent new Town Hall. Its great tower dwarfs all the surrounding towers and spires. It has a large, covered courtyard, which is the Guild Hall. Over the principal entrance is a statue A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 71 of Bishop Absalon, the founder of Copenhagen. Among the original features of the building is a dove-cote in the shape of a round tower, intended for a flock of doves which hover over the palace as emblems of peace. From a long dis- tance, one sees the spire of the Ex- change, a pictur- esque, red brick building. This spire is one hun- dred and fifty feet high, and very cu- riously twisted. It is formed of four bronze dragons, with their tails twisted together high in the air. This spire has a story, too. It once decorated a build- i n g in Sweden. When Denmark was at war with that country, the spire was taken as booty, brought across the sound and deposited where we now see it. Here is the Tower of St. Nicholas, where the watch- men keep watch at night for fires. Should a fire be dis- covered, the watchman gives a shrill whistle and a loud cry. If the fire occurs at night the people in the neigh- KING CHRISTIAN 72 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. borhood of the fire put a tub of water before their doors, and then go back to their beds. THORWALDSEN AND HIS MUSEUH. In many places we have been reminded of Denmark's most famous sculptor, Thorwaldsen. In cities out- side of Denmark one often sees his handiwork, and the shops in Copen- hagen show many casts, statues, friezes or photo- graphs of himself and his works of art. But we have yet to see the Palace of Art, that con- tains his collection, and to learn some- thing of his life. Bertel Thor- waldsen was the son of a poor ship carver. Some say he was born in Iceland, others claim Copenhagen as his first home. When but a little lad, Bertel helped his father with the carving, and developed so much talent that he was sent to the University at Copenhagen. By untiring industry and hard study he gained both honors and NEW TOWN HALL. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 73 prizes, and with the money earned went to Rome to study. There he toiled patiently for six long years, without friends or encouragement. At length his money was exhausted; but, just as he was on the point of giving up in discouragement and returning to his poor home, he received an order for a statue. This was the beginning of prosperity. Other orders followed rapidly and soon the poor sculptor was famous. At times he employed as many as forty assistants— artists and marble hewers. From time to time Thorwaldsen visited his native city, where he was received with distinction and honors and loaded with favors and commissions. The most of his life was spent away from his native land, but at the age of sixty-eight he returned to spend the re- mainder of his days in his beloved Copenhagen. A friend suggested to him that at his death he should give to this city the collection of his works which he himself possessed. He was pleased with the idea, and together with friends set about finding a suitable place for them. A stable belonging to the royal palace was offered for this purpose, and a skillful architect turned it into the building which is now known as the Thorwaldsen Museum. It is a low building of brick and stucco, oc- cupying one side of the square near Christianborg Palace. It is two stories high, forms a quadrangle, and encloses a court of the same shape. It was the wish of the sculptor that at death his body be placed in the midst of his Museum among his works of art, and there we find his tomb to-day, in the center of the court. 74 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. Over the doorway of the museum is a statue of Victory. Around the three sides of the building is a bas-relief which has for its subject the arrival and land- ing of the ships that brought Thorwaldsen, together with his treasures, from Rome to Copenhagen. THORWALDSEN'S MUSEUM. There are forty-two rooms grouped about the court, and in them a vast collection of statues, busts, reliefs, and monuments in marble and plaster. In one room we find the paintings, vases, coins and other articles of interest collected by him during his residence in Rome. In another room is his furniture. Some of the casts and reliefs are familiar to us. And when we come upon the originals of Day and Night we feel as if we had found old friends. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 75 Near the door is the sculptured marble form of the Lion of Lucerne, and in an adjoining room the heroic figure of Jason with the golden fleece. There is another, too, that we are glad to see, the noble figure of the sculptor him- self as he is at work, chiseling forms of beauty out of marble. The finest statue ever carved by this artist is that of our Savior in the Church of Our Lady. A visit to the building shows us a bare, ugly building with a square tower surmounted by a plain gilt cross. The church is decorated within by the works of a single master, which were designed for it. It is more than a church, it is a temple, peopled by the creations of Thorwaldsen. The portal is flanked by the princi- pal figures of the old Testament, bronze statues of Moses and David. These two stand outside. In the pediment group stands John the Baptist, the voice in the wilderness, the forerunner of Christ, preaching to young and old. Above the main entrance is a long frieze represent- ing the entrance of Jesus into Jerusalem. Inside the temple, in front of the pillars, are the figures of the twelve apostles, larger than life, six on each side. Through this line one approaches the altar, where the Savior stands as the God of the temple. This famous and beautiful statue of the Savior is, per- haps, the most perfect ever produced. He is represented as bending his head and stretching out his arms as if 76 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. to embrace all those who are weary and heavily laden. On the floor of the choir in front of the altar, kneels a beautiful Baptismal angel with a wreath of flowers around her head. She holds a bowl in the form of a shell, containing christening water. Rosenborg Pal- ace is one of Den- mark's most beau- tiful buildings and a place of great historic interest. It is of brick, with slender towers,and picturesquely placed amidst gar- dens almost in the center of Copenha ■ gen. The castle was founded by KingChrisbian and completed in 1624. It served as a resi- dence for the royal family until the beginning of this century. It is now used as a museum or store house for objects of art, weapons, royal armor, robes, jewels, coins, and similar treasures. These objects are arranged in the rooms in which their royal owners lived, and each sovereign has furnished and decorated his suite of rooms accord- ing to the style of his day. THORWALDSEN A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 77 The Danish national song, "King Christian Stood by the Lofty Mast," which celebrates the naval battle of Fehmern, in the Baltic July 1st, 1644, in which King Christian IV. was wounded, is illustrated in this museum. There are pieces of the suit he wore on board the battle ship when he was wounded. They are stained with blood, for he was wounded many times. The Knight's Hall is very impos- ing, with a magni- ficent arched ceil- ing and walls cov- ered with tapestry representing i m - portant historical events. In front of the great fire- place at the north- ern end of the hall, is a velvet canopy, underneath which are the coronation chairs of the King and Queen. The King's chair is made of narwhal-horn and adorned with allegorical figures; the Queen's is covered with solid silver, and adorned with two figures that represent the Fear of God and Charity. Before the cor- onation chair stand three silver lions, representing the Sound, the Great Belt and the Little Belt. These are always carried through the city during the ROSENBORG CASTLE. 78 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. coronation and funeral processions of the rulers of Denmark. Two tower rooms contain fine collections of rare old Venetian glass, and of Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Dresden, French,Swedish and Danish porcelain. There is a room where the ceiling, floors, doors, windows and walls are all mirrors. The garden has a fountain around which is one of the favorite play grounds of the Copenhagen children. There are fine avenues of old trees, pavilions and statues in this garden. One of these statues is of Hans Christian Andersen, and reminds us that Denmark was the home of this Prince of Story Tellers. The statue is of bronze and represents the writer seated with a book in his hand. He looks as if he were just going to tell a story. On the left side of the pedestal is a stork and the words, 'Tn Memory of the Wonder-Story Teller.' ' Upon the opposite side is the group of the "Ugly Duckling," and the words "Erected by the Danish people, 1800." HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN. What pleasure this writer has given to countless thousands of children, not only in his own country but in all parts of the world ! The little Danish folks play- ing around us in the park know quite as well as we his beautiful stories of the Stork, the Ugly Duckling, the Fir Tree, the Match Girl, and the Tin Soldier. Hans Andersen was born in the town of Odense, on the Island of Fuen. His parents were poor, and while Hans was a small boy the father died. Hans missed A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 79 his father sorely, for he had been his constant com- panion. When left alone he was obliged to amuse himself, and he did it in a very curious way. He dressed dolls, and made them act out the stories and plays his father had read to him. He also learned to recite poems and stories and to sing songs to amuse his mother and the neighbors. When Hans wa,s fourteen his moth- er wished him to learn a trade, but the boy loved books and was am- bitious to become a writer and actor. He told his mother that if she would let him go to Cop- enhagen, he would make a fortune and come home famous. The mother thought this very foolish talk, and laughed at him. But after a time she consulted a fortune teller as to what she should do. This wise old woman told her that Hans would become a great man, and that the town of Odense would one day be illuminated in his honor. Then the mother consented to let the boy go, and so, with but a few dollars in his pocket, he set out on his A STREET IN ODENSE. 80 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. journey. When he reached Copenhagen he tried to make some money by singing, but his shoes and clothes were so poor and thin that he got a severe cold and his voice was spoiled by hoarseness. Then he wrote some little stories and tried to sell them, but he spelled very badly and people would not buy them. By and by he made some friends, and they advised him to go to school and offered to help pay for his lessons. Hans gladly ac- cepted the offer. Though almost a man he was oblig- ed to enter a class with the very smallest boys in school, but he worked hard until able to spell well. Then he tried again to write fairy stories such as children like. People now be- gan to read what he wrote, and to talk about him. They wondered how he knew just exactly the kind of stories children like best; and they wondered, too^ as he grew older in years, that he never seemed old, as most people did. STATUE OF HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 81 He was just a big boy all his life, and kept on " making believe/' exactly as children do. By and by the children of many lands came to know and love him through the beautiful stories he wrote for them. Sometimes he went to little sick children and read stories to them. Kings and princes and great men invited him to their homes. They loved to hear him read and tell stories quite as well as the children. Thorwaldsen, the sculptor, was one of his friends. When he died in 1875, the people erected this statue to him. It stands at the end of an avenue of trees in a plat of flowers. It is a pleasant, shady place, and a favorite playground of the children. The figures on the statue remind us of Andersen's most famous story, "The Ugly Duckling." He said it was like the story of his own life. At first he met with only sorrow and disappointment, but at last every thing came out right. His life, too, was a lovely story that could not have been better if a good fairy had guided him. From Rosenborg Palace we go to the Prince's Palace, in which is the National Museum, and to other places where collections,weapons of war, pottery, house- hold articles, and many other things are exhibited. One can study the history of Denmark from these exhibits. They are classified and arranged according to the age or period to which they belong. There is the iron age, and the flint, bronze, and stone ages, as well as the modern age. There are art galleries, too, where one might spend 82 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. hours studying works of the ofd masters and of tal- ented Danish artists, but these we must leave for another day. T1VOLI. Now let us see how the Danish peeple amuse them- selves. They are as fond of music, of dancing, and of the theatre as are the French, and in the midst of the noisy hum and crowding of business life they have set IN A COPENHAGEN PARK. apart one spot where they may be free from care, and enjoy themselves. This is a place of amusement or park known as "Tivoli." It is really an immense garden, with shady avenues, neat walks ornamented with statues, pleasant resting places, seats, restaurants, booths and band stands. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 83 There is a tranquil lake in the center where one may enjoy a ride on a tiny steamer, or in a row boat. There are tents, platforms and buildings where one may see freaks and wonders, panoramas, shows, operas, concerts, trapeze performances, merry-go-rounds, swings, shooting galleries, and pavilions for dancing. All summer long this place is thronged with pleasure seekers. People of both high and low degree, nobles, workmen, and peasants from Zealand and the south of Sweden, old people, children, babies, students, digni- fied citizens and their wives, and in fact everybody, come. Tivoli offers some pleasure to each. The place is gayest on Sunday, when the streets of the city are deserted. At four o'clock the cannon sa- lute announces the Tivoli 's pleasures are to begin. During tfye hours that follow, people stream in thou- sands through the gates, dressed in Sunday best. They are greeted by sounds of music floating through the park. There are two large orchestras belonging to the place, one playing in an open pavilion near the en- trance, and another larger one in the Concert Hall. This Hall is one of the centers of attraction. In the back of the building and in the veranda running round it. waiters in dress coats hurry to and fro, bringing Danish bread and butter and other refresh- ments to those seated at the small tables. Outside, people walk about and chat with their friends. Many gather about a place known as "Artists' Lawn." It is an enclosed space where acrobats, athletes, rope dancers, jugglers, clowns, trapeze performers and ani- mal trainers appear to amuse the multitude. There are reserved seats for those who wish them, but thou- 84 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. sands of the people stand to watch the performance. "When darkness settles down, Tivoli shows itself in all its glory. The illumination b e - gins. Over the garden walks rise arches of green and red lanterns, lawns and flowerbeds are bordered with pearl chains o f white ground glass lamps, and on all sides rise fantastic castles of fire." A radiant fairy palace blazes through the dark- ness. This is the Bazaar, a long wooden building in the Moorish style, where people are eating, drink- ing, laughing and chatting. In every DRESSED FOR A FEAST direction lights flash and blaze. PARKS AND PLEASURE RESORTS. Copenhagen is noted for its parks and pleasure grounds. These parks are beautiful, well kept wooded gardens. The nightingale and the cuckoo build their A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 85 nests in the trees, and wild ducks swim about in the wa- ters. There are lakes with swans swimming about in them and fish playing in shoals on the surface of the water. On Sundays, working men with their wives and chil- dren bring their lunches with them and spend the en- tire day in these shady, quiet places. The sound, with its violet blue water, wooded shore, and picturesque villas, is very beautiful. No Dane ever forgets it or wishes to leave it. Every Danish poet sings its praises and of the beauty of its summer nights. The most famous of all the beautiful places on the sound is Skodsborg. A short ride on the steamer, along the coast of Zealand, brings us to this place. Every visitor comes here to get the finest view of the sound. No- where else is the sea bathing so good. During the summer it is the gayest of all the pleasure resorts of Denmark. Near it lies the "White Palace," the royal summer residence. Across the sound from Skodsborg rise the white banks of an island. It is the island of Hveen, where Denmark's great astronomer, Tycho Brahe, lived years ago. The island is now used as a hunting ground by King Oscar of Sweden. King Frederick was much interested in the astrono- THE SUMMER PALACE. 86 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. mer, and gave to him this island, and money to build him a home and an observatory. The dwelling was known as the Castle of the Heavens. It was somewhat like a castle, but in the top was an observatory and a great telescope through which Tycho Brahe studied the heavens. When the king died the astronomer lost his best friend. Enemies who had been jealous of the favors shown him, conspired against him. His pension was taken from him, his home torn down, and his work ridiculed and derided. It was not until many years later that the value of his discoveries became known to the people. When they realized what he had done, they tried to make amends for past neglect and ill-treatment by erecting a monument to his memory. A statue was raised then on the very spot on which his home once stood, and there it stands to-day. INDUSTRIES. We find in Copenhagen extensive factories for cot- ton goods, porcelain, watches, clocks, pianos, foundries, iron works, breweries, distilleries, tobacco factories, and sugar refineries. The manufactures of Denmark are not important, paper, gloves,' wooden clocks, woolens, and earthenware of Jutland being the principal ones. One-half the people in Denmark are engaged in agriculture. The farms are small as in Belgium, but they are very carefully cultivated and made to yield large crops where the soil is good. The farms usually A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 87 consist of from one to twelve acres, but there are large estates also. The pastures are the most important part of the farms, for dairy farming is the chief industry. When we learn that there are over a million and a half dairy cows in this small country , we are not surprised that but- ter constitutes the most important export. Danish butter is famous for its sweetness and freshness. It is said that no other country in the world produces so much butter in proportion to its size. Much of this is packed in air tight casks and tin cans and sent to many parts of the world. Denmark is said to send be- tween thirty and thirty-five million pounds of butter each year to Eng- land alone. Besides the cows, there are vast numbers of sheep, pigs, goats and horses. The fields afford iine pastures ON A DAIRY FARM. 88 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. for stock. Quantities of meat are shipped to other countries, and millions of eggs. The horses of Denmark, particularly those of Jutland, are famous for their beauty and strength. THE PEOPLE. The Danes are tall, strong, and a fine looking race. They are generally fair, with blue eyes and light hair. The people are exceed- ingly polite, and men kiss each other in a most affec- tionate manner when they meet. Instead of raising their hats* to each other when they pass on the streets, they stop and shake hands. We notice that most of them are care- fully gloved. Per- haps this is be- cause gloves in Copenhagen are cheap. The people are cheerful, hospita- ble, enterprising, independent and self-respecting. Those who are considered well-to-do here would be A BRIDAL COSTUME IX AMAGER. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. 89 thought poor in our country. The people have few comforts and luxuries, but they are so industrious and saving, that few of them are very poor, or suffer actual want. We find no beggars. The inhabitants of Amager are descended from the Dutch who were brought to the country to teach their Danish neighbors how to garden and improve the cul- tivation of vegetables. Their quaint costumes may still be seen in some dis- tricts, but their use is now dying out. The Danish house is very neat and clean, and fur- nished much like our own homes. And the people, too, seem more like English and " States "people than the people of any other country on the continent. The Danes are almost all Lutherans, although other religions are tolerated. They are among the best edu- cated people of Europe. Nearly every one is able to read and write. At the age of six, the children enter school and must be kept there until they are fourteen, no matter how poor the parents. The Danish home has no nursery for the little ones, as in England. The mother usually has charge of the children herself and is always with them. She gives them their first lessons and teaches them their earliest games. Early in the autumn, when the storks have left their nests on the chimneys, boats come in laden with coarse brown crockery, made in Jutland. Children board these boats and timidly make their wants known. They wish to buy a "Yule pig." It is of brown crockery and has a slit in the back through which the child's pennies may go in, but cannot come out till the 90 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. image is broken. This is done at Christmas time. At that season of the year when beeves are killed for the winter supply of meat, the annual candle mak- ing occurs. This is regarded by old and young as an occasion of importance. Not only are the candles made for the whole year, but a goodly number, according to the wealth of the peasant, are made especially for Christmas and are called " Christ- mas candles." The Danish chil- dren do not know about Santa Claus. They have instead what they call a "Christmas Brownie," in the shape of a little old man with a long gray beard, who is supposed to live underground. The tree is always lighted on Christmas Eve and the family all meet together then. The older people get their presents on a plate, at their place at the table. The children's gifts are on the tree. Roast goose is the chief feature of the Christmas Eve dinner, and a dish of rice is eaten before dinner is DANISH CHILDREN IN AMAGER. A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK.. 91 served. Apple fritters make the dessert instead of plum pudding. According to superstitious Danes, the cattle in the stables all rise at midnight Christmas Eve and low in salutation. The cows and other animals are well fed on this day, and as a special treat the dog is given some bread, and his freedom. Even the birds are remembered. A sheaf of oats or grain is fastened to a pole or to the house top for their Christmas dinner. In the country the houses and farms are near to- gether, forming villages. The houses are usually built as a square, one side being the dwelling house and the other side the farm buildings, and stables. The newer ones are of stone, brick or cement, while the old ones are of frame with straw thatched roofs. The peasants are very superstitious, and some of them firmly believe in the existence of fairies, or, as they call them, trolls and "nisses." They are thought to do all sorts of funny and mischievous things on the farm. The Danish country women some- A FARMYARD 92 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO DENMARK. times put out a bowl of food for them to keep them good natured, for they will not let the butter be churned if they are not well fed. The islands Zealand and Funen are fertile and pre- sent many beautiful bits of landscape. Great fields of corn, barley and rye wave all over Zealand. The barley is used in brewing beer, the common bever- age of the country. The rye is used for bread. The people bake their own bread, usually of rye flour, and brew their own beer. They also make the greater part of their house furniture and utensils with their own hands. A COUNTRY VILLAGE STREET IN DENMARK. TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. A Little Journey to Belgium and Denmark. The class, or travel club, has now completed the study of Belgium and Denmark, and is ready for a review. In order to make this interesting, let the work be summed up in the form of an enter- tainment called — AN AFTERNOON OR EVENING IN BELGIUM AND DENMARK. For the afternoons abroad, given as geography reviews, or as a part of the Friday afternoon exercises, invitations may be written out by the pupils, or mimeographed or hectographed, and carried to friends and parents. If given as an evening entertainment and illustrated by sterop- ticon views, handbills may be printed and circulated, at least a week beforehand. The following form may be used : — SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. A TRIP TO BELGIUM AND DENMARK FOR FIFTEEN CENTS. You are invited by the pupils of the school [or the mem- bers of the Travel Class or Club] to spend an evening (or afternoon) in Belgium and Denmark. The party starts promptly at 1:30 P. m. (or 8 P ; m.) the Those desiring to take this trip should secure tickets before the day of sailing, as the party is limited. Guides are furnished free. The proceeds of the entertainment are to be used in the purchase of a library and pictures for the school. 94 teacher's supplement. SUGGESTIONS. The exercises should be conducted and the talks given by the pupils themselves. Some topic should be selected by each pupil, or assigned to him and with this topic he should become thoroughly familiar. Geographies, books of travel, magazine articles and newspapers should be consulted until each pupil has his subject well in hand. He should also, where possible, secure photographs, pictures or objects with which to illustrate his talk. At its close these should be placed upon a table, or the chalk tray, that visitors may examine them more closely. If the entertainment is given in the evening, the teacher may be able to use stereopticon views. These will prove a very great attraction to both pupils and parents, and should be secured if possible. The lantern with oil lamp may be easily operated by the teacher while the pupils give the descrip- tions of the pictures, or give talks about the country. The lanterns and slides may be rented for the evening or after- noon at reasonable rates, and the cost covered by an admission fee of from ten to twenty-five cents. A leader, or guide, may be appointed to make the introductory remarks, and to announce the numbers of the programme. If time will permit an afternoon may be devoted to each of these countries. If not, the first part of the programme may be devoted to Belgium and the other to Denmark and her colonies. ROOM DECORATION. If journeys are to be made to the two countries and colonies in one afternoon, the room decorations may be assigned to two sets of pupils and the school divided into two groups. The group taking part in the program devoted to Belgium may be seated on the right hand side of the room ; the others on the left. The front blackboard may be divided into two parts, the right hand part and one side of the room being devoted to Belgium, and the left to Denmark and her colonies. Decorate the room with corn flowers, poppies and sprays of wheat, rye and barley. A flower border may also be placed across the top of the boards. SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 95 On the right hand side of the board print the words, ' 'Belgium, the Land of the Wooden Shoe," and under it a sketch of a wooden shoe filled with flax flowers. A sketch of a Belgian hare, nibbling clover, may be drawn on lower part of board. Belgian flags may be grouped over this shoe and over the flags a picture of Leopold, the King of Belgium. On the side boards tack pictures of Rubens and Van Dyck, famous Belgian artists, and copies of their works, which may be found among the Perry pictures. On the left hand side of the front board hang a picture of the sovereign of Denmark, King Christian, and about it group Danish flags. Pictures of the stork, eider-duck, and Eskimo may be sketched on this board also. On the side board hang a picture of Thorwaldsen and copies of his works, or plaster casts, medallions, and bas reliefs. • The plaster casts "Day'' and "Night'' maybe secured (the smaller sizes costing but ten or fifteen cents each), and these may be allowed to remain on the walls. A picture of Hans Christian Andersen may be hung over a little table, on which are placed copies of Andersen's books. The pupils should be encouraged to examine and read these during the month, and to secure copies for the r own libraries. If a prize is to be given for good work, a copy of the Fairy Tales or of Thorwaldsen's "Day" and "Night" may be presented. A table may be devoted to an exhibit of articles from each of these countries, and a third to Denmark's colonies, the Faroe Is- lands, Iceland and Greenland, and the Danish West Indies. Over the Belgian table, print the words "The Workshop of Europe." Upon this table place cards with pieces of lace of vari- ous kinds attached. Let some pupil who is familiar with the names of the different kinds of lace manufactured in Europe, show the samples, tell their names aud where each is manufactured. Let her show pieces of linen also, for which Belgium is famous, and show to pupils the difference between linen and cotton. Over the table devoted to the Iceland and Greenland exhibit, place pictures or natural history charts showing the animals native to these places. Fur rugs may be used for the floor, and articles made 96 teacher's supplement. of fur shown. Dolls dressed as Eskimos may be given a place in the exhibit also. AN AFTERNOON IN BELGIUM. PROGRAMME. 1. Introduction. 2. Antwerp. 3. The Carillon of Antwerp Cathedral. (Reading or Recitation.) 4. The Country. 5. Recitation, "The Spinners." 6. Song, "Spinning." 7. Belgian Hare Industry. 8. Ghent. 9. From Ghent to Aix, (Recitation). 10. The Great Bell Roland, (Recitation). 11. Bruges. 12. Bruges, (Recitation or Reading.) 13. The Belfry of Bruges, (Recitation or Reading). 14. Ostend. 15. Brussels. , 16. The People. 17. National Anthem. 18. Lace Industry. 19. Flemish Artists and their Work. 20. Waterloo. AN AFTERNOON IN DENMARK AND HER COLONIES. PROGRAMME. 1 . Introduction. 2. Recitation or Song, "Towards the North." 3. Fano Island. 4. Glimpses of Jutland. 5. Zealand, 6. The Harbor. - 7. Copenhagen. 8. The Battle of the Baltic. 9. Song, Danish National Hymn. SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 97 10. Thorwaldsen and His Museum. 11. Rosenborg Palace. 12. Andersen and His Work. 13. A Fairy Story, (by Andersen). . 14. Tivoli. 15. Song, "The Dannebrog." 16. The Danish People. 17. Amusements. 18. Recitation, "Denmark," by pupil in Danish Costume. 19. The Country. 20. Song, "The Powers." 21. The Faroe Islands. 22. Recitation, "Northern Seas." 23. Iceland. 24. Icebergs, Glaciers and Geysers. 25. Greenland. 26. The Eskimo. 27. Tableau, "Eskimo." 28. Song, "The Eskimo." 29. Recitation, ' 'The Eskimo. " 30. Animal Life in [celand and Greenland, 31. The Fisheries. 32. Song, "The Fisherman." 33. Departure for Home. 34. Song, "The Voyagers." SONGS. 1 . Danish National Hymn. 2. "Towards the North, " a Patriotic Song of Denmark, Songs of all Nations. 3. "The Powers," National School Library of Song. 4. "The Dannebrog," Little Journey. 5. "The Fisherman," Riverside Song Book. 6. Spinning Song, Academy Song Book. 7. "Little Eskimo," Songs in Season. 8. "The Eskimo," Carrie Adams Music Book. 9. "The Voyagers," Riverside Song Book. 10. National Air of Belgium, Little Journey. DANISH NATIONAL HYMN. Jl^ Marziale. A '— -<52- i. King Chris-tian stood by 2. Nils Juel gave heed to th' 3. North sea! a glimpse of loft - y mast, In tem-pest's roar, Now Wes - sel rent, Thy mist and is the murk - y i &= SE ^ smoke, His " sword was ham - mer ■ hour! He hois-ted his blood -red sky! Then cham-pions to thine ing flag arms so fast, Thro' once more, And were sent; Ter- i :fe^=^ Goth - ic helm and brain it passed, Then sank each hos - tile smote up - on the foe full sore, And shout-ed loud thro' the ror and Death glared where he went; From th' waves was heard a i -y- ±- hulk and mast, In mist tern - pest's roar, "Now is wail, that rent Thy murk and smoke, the hour." - y sky! '•Fly!" shouted the}-, "fly "Fly!" shouted they, "for From Den-mark thun-ders he who can! Who braves of Den - mark's Chris - tian, Who shel - ter fly! Of Den-mark's Juel who can de - fy. Of Tor- den-skiol! Let each to Heav'n com-mend his soul, Let i braves of Den - mark's each to Den-mark's Chris Juel who can de Heav'n com-mend his tian fy soul, the the and stroke.'' pow'r?" fly. THE DANNEBROG. Patriotic song of Denmark. J SI i I zvzi -£-.- i. Proud Dan - ne - brog is float -ing O'er Co -dan's roll - ing flood; 2. Wave high in bat - tie proud-ly, Like Ju - bel's sword, so bold; m t — r :=d: T=£tt=*-. Night can - not hide thy glo - ry, O ban - ner, red as blood! When can - non thunders loud - ly, Thy song be Tor - deu-skiold, 4 «-i «- E=p^ tic z£=Ekri=r r-4 fei paj • 4T For thee has brave-ly striv - en And fall - en man - y a knight; And when t'wards heav'n thou fli - est, In glow-ing light and flame, 1 ' --- ^ . ~ I L ' S M=f=Pt -y— y i — >_ — i :izi=i=izrzrit=r: — i — — — i 1 1 — \— IB 9- Thy glo - ry fills the heav - en, Wave high thy cross of light. Shout to the heav-ens high - est The he - ro Hvidfeld's name. *=i=t ■v — r--— s 4= £= -y- £: ■*•-. LofC. NATIONAL AIR OF BELGIUM. Alia Marcia mf \^zzzzzfztt^t£=W^T- m.J &- -X—1+- ;=^t^±^ —*- ^ZTZZ^MZZT. ap gzgzgrs f=^£ -0 0-1 -0 — _ «_ — « — 0--t \—x^~ x — ^ ab=t [ " rj 4^^^ :l — r *z*cg±£= :f =*±*^f ±f z|!±r = q i^s^^£ - I I ! 1 ' ^*"» fr /? Pf gg^^^ -jg " ff- -* -^-#- ^^^^5=^=^1 7— »- -Ugl^-KZ^ «~j ^ „ . ^ .'--- * — — # t 0-- — F~ - a i y= £ — if ^ — = — m 4 . P * I ^ I "^ SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 101 RECITATIONS AND READINGS FOR THE PROGRAMME. BELGIUM. The Great Bell, Roland (Ghent). Tilton, in Poems of Places, Longfellow. The Pield of Waterloo, Scott. The Eve of Waterloo, Lord Byron. Bruges, Longfellow. From Ghent to Aix, Browning. The Carillon. The Flax Spinner's Song. The Belfry of Bruges, Longfellow. DENMARK. The Battle of the Baltic, Campbell. The Arctic Lover, Bryant. Towards the North. Northern Seas, Mary Howitt. An Arctic Vision, Bret Harte. Icebergs, T. B. Read. The King of Denmark's Ride, Poems of Places. Winter at Copenhagen, Poems of Places. The Ghost of Hamlet's Father, Poems of Places. Kallundborg Cburch, Whittier, Poems of Places. The Dale of Jarl Thorkell, Poems, of Places. King Olaf's War Horns, Longfellow. If the description of the stork has not been given in the "After- noon in Holland," it may be given here, and also the Story of the Stork by Hans Christian Andersen, the poem "To the Stork" by Longfellow, or the Song of the Stork, as suggested in the Teacher's Supplement of Holland. Suggestions for additions to the programme may also be found in the Teacher's Supplements of the Journeys to Canada and Alaska. PATRIOTIC SONG OP DENMARK. TOWARDS THE NORTH. Towards the North a beauteous land is lying. And tho' we find no towering mountains there, 102 teacher's supplement. No land exists its loveliness outvying. It is our fatherland, our Denmark fair. Afar the North Sea's silvery waves are glowing, And leafy elms where feathered songsters nest • On every part kind Heaven some gift's bestowing On every part God's peaceful blessings rest. From Eyder's stream to Skagen's white hills gleaming, With those of Fuen's isle in glimmering sheen ; There, clotheu in white near Falster's strand and Laalanct, The maiden of the wave stands crowned with green, Her healthy people ne'er can want be knowing; The grain here, like a heaving sea, waves high, 'Round flowery meadows bowers fair are growing, Ah, here 'tis sweet to live and hard to die. Thus stream and sound the town and meadows sever, Yet Denmark stands united in its might; A nation's faithful love will bind it ever, And honor stands a guardian for its right. A common cause here every heart is blending, And loving children guard each native shore ; All Danish hearts one prayer to heaven are sending, God guard our King and land forevermore. THE FLAX SPINNER'S SONG. Now is the flax so fair and long; Ho! ho! ho! And now the poor man's heart is strong, And now ascends his swelling song, The grateful heart's o'er flow. What torments must the flax endure ! Ho! ho! ho! They'll dig a pond and heave it in. Them beat and bruise it short and thin ; Hallo! hallo! hallo! The fla3 T er, he will break the straw, Rack! rack! rack! POEMS. 103 The gleaner, he will scrape and glean, Till not a single sheaf is seen, Then throw it on the pack. The batcheler then must make it fine, Hash! hash! hash! . He draws it out so fine and fair, He forms the woof with speed and care And lays it on the rash. And then, when winter comes along, Groll! groll! groll! The woofs are set, and man and wife, They spin, as if they spun for life, They spin full many a roll. And now the bride will be so gay, Ho! ho! ho! She'll spin by night,, she'll spin by day, Her bridal dress she' 11 spin away, Fine as her hair, I know. Hurrah ! hurrah ! the flax is good, Ho! ho! ho! Who does his duty daily, he Must always bright and happy be Whether in weal or woe. The flax rewards our cheerful toil ; Ho! ho! ho! And many a mighty prince's son Who wears the linen we have spun, Our joy may never know. From the German, Tr. C. T. Brooks. THE BATTLE OP THE BALTIC. In 1801 Copenhagen was bombarded by the English under Nel- son, the naval hero. A British poet has commemorated this battle in the "Battle of the Baltic." 104 tfacher's supplement. Of Nelson and the North Sing the glorious day's renown When to battle fierce came forth All the might of Denmark's crown, And her arms along the deep proudly shone ; By each gun the lighted brand In a bold, determined hand And the Prince of all the land Led them on. Like leviathans afloat, Lay their bulwarks on the brine ; "When the sign of battle flew On the lofty British line; It was ten of April morn by the chime ; As they drifted on their path, There was silence deep as death; And the boldest held his breath, For a time. But the might of England flushed To anticipate the scene; And her van the fleeter rushed O'er the deadly space between, "Hearts of oak!" our captains cried, when each gun From its adamantine lips Spread a death-shade round the ships, Like the hurricane eclipse Of the sun! Again! again! again! And the havoc did not slack Till a feeble cheer the Dane To our cheering sent us back. Their shots along the deep slowly boom, Then cease — and all is wail, As they strike the shattered sail : POEMS. 105 Or in conflagration pale Light the gloom! Outspoke the Victor then, As he hailed them o'er the wave; "Ye are brothers! ye are men!" And we conquer but to save ! So peace, instead of death, let us bring; But yield, proud foe, thy fleet, With the crews, at England's feet, And make submission meet To our King. " Then Denmark blessed our Chief, That he gave her wounds repose ; And the sounds of joy and grief From her people wilclty rose, As Death withdrew his shade from the day ; While the sun looked smiling bright O'er a wide and woeful sight Where the fires of funeral light Died away. Now joy, Old England, raise! For the tidings of our might, By the festal cities' blaze, While the wine cup shines in light ; And yet amidst that joy and uproar. Let us think of them that sleep, Full many a fathom deep, By the wild and stormy steep, Elsinore ! Brave hearts! to Britain's pride, Once so faithful and so true On the deck of fame that died, With the gallant, good Riou! Soft sigh the winds of heaven o'er their grave! 106 teacher's supplement, While the billow mournful rolls, And the mermaid's song condoles, Singing glory to the souls Of the brave! Thomas Campbell. THE CARILLON OF ANTWERP CATHEDRAL. In the pleasant land of Belgium, Where the Scheldt first seeks the main, Stands a quaint, old gabled city, Fashioned like a town of Spain. Though that grand old town of Antwerp, Rich in shows of bygone time, As on eyesight falls the sunshine, Bursts the bright cathedral chime. On the sultry air of summer, On December's chilling blast, On the dull, blank ear of midnight, Is that carillon sweetly cast, Like the golden grain in seed-time, Scattered with a hopeful care, That the genial after-season May produce some harvest there. Oft forgotten, oft remembered, Startling, strange, and silent soon, Lovely, even though neglected Like the light of crescent moon. Where the reveller's song is loudest, Where dim tapers light the dead, Where the stranger seeks his chamber, Steals that cadence overhead. Where the monk is at his vigil, Where the air is foul with sin, Where the lonely sick one waketh, POEMS. 107 That old chime strays softly in. To the vile in notes of warning, — Chiding tones that seldom cease, — To the sad in words of solace, To the pure in thoughts of peace. O'er the city, o'er the river, Through each quarter of the town, Through each day, and through each season, Rains that frequent music down. Even across the parting ocean, In still chambers of the brain, At this moment, through the silence, Breaks that magic sound again. Like the carillon softly chiming, Soothing ) gentle as its fall, Is the ceaseless dole of mercy, Unperceived, that comes to all. And our nobler life is nourished, As we count the beads of time, By pure hopes and aspirations Sweeter than that minster chime. 0, 'tis well to pause and listen To those benisons in the air, As we tread life's busy pathway, That salute us everywhere. Anonymous. REFERENCE BOOKS. BELGIUM. Les Miserables, Victor Hugo. Vanity Fair, Thackeray. A Dog of Flanders, Ouida. In the Ardennes, Macquoid. The Land of Rubens, Huelt, translated by Vandain. Historical Guide, Grant Allen An Inland Voyage, R. Stevenson. DENMARK. Life in Denmark, Andersen. Denmark, Taylor. ICELAND AND GREENLAND. Iceland, Kneeland. Iceland, Baring Gould. Iceland Lock. By Fell & Fjord, Iceland, Oswald, The Children of the Cold, Schwatka. Greenland, Rink. Crossing Greenland, Nansen. Mrs. Peary's Arctic Journal. PERRY PICTURES. FLEMISH ART. rubens. 1577-1640. VAN DYCK. 1599-1641. 630 Portrait of Himself. 646 Children of Charles I 631 Head of a Girl. 648 Baby Stuart. 632 The Flight of Lot. 651 Repose in Egypt. 633 Holy Family 1 636 Descent from the Cross. VAN DYCK. 1599 1641 ALMA-TADEMA. 1836. 644 Portrait of Himself. 655 Reading Homer. 645 Portrait of Charles I. 656 The Old Story. J\ Library of travel LITTLE JOURNEYS TO EVERY LAND. By Marian Nl. George. CLOTH BOUND VOLUMES, 50 Cents. Each cloth bound volume contains from 160 to 184 pages, lyk x5X inches, colored flags, colored maps, and from 60 to 80 illustrations. 1. CUBA and PUERTO RICO. 2. HAWAII and THE. PHILIPPINES. 3. CHINA and JAPAN. 4. MEXICO and CENTRAL AMERICA. 5. ALASKA and CANADA. 6. ENGLAND and WALES. 7. SCOTLAND and IRELAND. ^8. HOLLAND, BELGIUM and DENMARK. 9. FRANCE and SWITZERLAND. (IN PRESS.) 10. ITALY, SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. (IN PRESS.) The last two numbers will be ready by August 1st. Other countries of Europe are in course of preparation, and these will be followed by journeys to Asia, Africa, South America and various islands of the seas. Do not fail to include these Books in your order for Library Books. These make handsome, valuable Books for every Library. Teachers and Pupils, you need this reliable, up=to=date in= formation of countries treated by a successful teacher of children, and an exceedingly popular writer of stories for children and teachers. A. FLANAGAN COMPANY PUBLISHERS 266 WABASH AVE. CHICAGO NE W BOO KS. "Portfolio of Pictures for Language ttlork«« COMPOSITION, STORY TELLING, ETC. The set has 24 sketches made by the best artists. The average size of the pictures is 13x18, large enough to be seen by the whole class. The subjects are varied and of interest, embracing animal life, landscapes, home science, etc. 24 pictures in a set. Price 30c. WHYBARK'S CHILD'S MUSIC COURSE. SECOND READER. The success of the first reader and the demands for another book of the series, have induced us to issue a second book. It is on the same general plan as the first reader. The exercises are of a more advanced work and the music for 2nd and 3rd grade pupils. Clo. 80 pages, 30c, list. LITTLE PEOPLE OF THE SNOW. By MARY MULLER. A fascinating story of an ever interesting people to all children. This little work is told in a charming way suitable for second and third grade pupils. There are 29 illustrations, many of them full page. The type is large and the book will be suitable reading for the grades for which it is intended. Board binding, 25c. Cloth, 35c. PRACTICAL DIALOGUES, DRILLS AND MARCHES. By MARIE IRISH. Contains Patriotic Choppers for Washington's birthday, 12 characters; Our Flag, patriotic exercise for 16 characters; Military Drill for 12 boys; The Blue and The Gray, Memorial Day exercise for 22 characters; Spring Romance, Arbor Day exercise for 10 children; Mother Nature's Party, Arbor Day exer- cise for 27 children; Picture Gallery, Thanksgiving exercise for 17 children; Be Thankful, Thanksgiving exercise for 10 little girls. Pumpkin Pie, Thanks- giving exercise for 14 boys; At Christmastime, for 20 boys and girls; Watching for Santa, for 2 little girls. Sunflower March and Drill for 5 girls; Bo-Peep and Boy Blue March, for 6 girls and 6 boys. Butterfly Drill for 8 little girls; The Tea Party, for 9 little girls. Luck at Last, 3 characters; The Meeting of the Ghosts, 6 characters; Slight Mistake, 10 characters; Scene at the Ticket Office, 12 characters; The Lost Child, 14 characters; Modern Midsummer-Nights Dream, two characters; Midsummer Fairies; Motion Songs, several characters. The work is for all grades and contains 183 pages. Price 25c. CASTLE'S SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENTS, No. 3. For Primary and Intermediate Grades. The compiler has happily succeeded in presenting nearly every description of recitation and dialogue, as well as interesting charades and drills for the school room. A large amount of original matter specially prepared for this work is also given. Paper, 192 pages, 25c. A. FLANAGAN CO., Wabash Ave., Chicago. EVERY TEACHER NEEDS THIS BOOK ANIMALS FROM ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD A magnificent volume, originally issued in parts, is now complete, and bound in a single book, containing one hundred and twenty pictures of animals, representing every part of the globe. These illustrations are 1% x 10^ inches in size, printed on the finest and best of paper. The descriptive matter is written attractively, possessing the merit of scientific accuracy, and containing a great number of facts and anecdotes. No book of this character has ever been offered at so low a price. The volume is 10 # x 14 inches in size, weighing three pounds; is durably and elegantly bound in cloth- It should be in every school teacher's library. Price, $1.50; to introduce, one copy sent for $1 .00 prepaid. LITTLE PEOPLE OF THE SNOW Being The Life of KOOHNA, an Eskimo Boy This is a charming little volume of 108 pages, by Mary Fuller- It is bound in cloth, has illuminated covers, embossed with silver, and is fully illustrated. CONTENTS. The Sun in the Horizon. Mother Eskimo makes Koohna a new Suit of Clothes. How the Baby Eskimo Lives. How to manage the Dog-sledge. Little Koohna at Work. Spearing Fish. Voyage on the Ice. Eskimo Stories and Folk-lore. The Northern Lights. Where the Eskimo Girl has her Pockets. The Eskimo House. Games of Eskimo Boys and Girls Hunting the Musk Ox. How Seals are Caught. The White Man's Iglo. FOR SECOND AND THIRD GRADES Cloth, Price, 30 Cents. Boards, Price 25 Cents. A. FLANA6APJ CO., PUBLISHERS, CHICAGO. ILL 1C0PY OEL TOCAT.DtV. JUL. 3 '902 Campus University of Minnesota, Minneapolis. national Educational fl$$n MINNEAPOLIS, JULY 5 TO 11 The finest scenery, the most complete train service, the most con- venient schedules to St. Paul and Minneapolis are to be found on from Chicago and alt points South and East. Lo m PLAN BOOK A UTILE JOURNEY TO BELGIUM and DENMARK MARIAN M. GEORGE, Editor, * 41 * * A. FLANAGAN CO., Publishers. Issued Monthly, except July and August. te~. *&>a GREAT AMERICAN INDUSTRIES By W. F. ROCHELEAU VoL L-MDNERALS Volume I of this indispensable addition to school literature is as complete in details relating to them as the mterest of pupils will per- mit. It is valuable supplementary reading. It is fully illustrated, showing much of interest connected with Gold, Coat, Granite, Iron, flarble, Petroleum, Natural Gas and Shale. Now extensively used as supplementary reading in Iowa f Wisconsin, Ohio and the City of Chicago. Cloth, 5# x 8 inches, 192 pages, 50 cents. Boards, 36 cents. Vol IL-PRODUCTS OF THE SOIL Each industry and product of the following subjects, Indian Cora, Cotton* Wheat, Lumber, Sugar, is carefully reviewed in all of its phases in plain, untechnical language that is within the understanding of pupils of the fourth and fifth grades and may be used in the sixth grades nicely. The book is embellished with many half-tone engrav- ings, maps, etc. Cloth, 5# x 8 inches, 178 pages; 50 cents. Boards, 36 cents. Vol. ^-MANUFACTURES The subject matter in this volume has been obtained from direct observation and consultation of the most recent standard authorities. In the selection of topics, care has been taken to choose those which are of general interest on account of their relation to our everyday life, and the industrial development of the nation. The relation of these industries to the industrial geography of our country is also important, and it is the hope of the author that the information contained in this little book may fill a want in our schools and homes. The work is intensely interesting and makes valuable reading for Grammar Grades. The subjects treated are : Motors, Glass, Leather, Boots and Shoes, Dressed Meat, Pins, Needles, Pencils, Paper, Printing, Newspapers, Books. Cloth, 236 pages, well illustrated. Price, 50 cents. Boards, 36 cents. . A Young' Man's Pr oblem s CONTENTS rt£*« Restless Years—Or, The Problem of a Pursuit in Life. &/ie College Widow- Or, The Problem of an Insincere Friend, V Having* a Purpose— Or, The Problem of Concentrated Effort. JBfie Value of HealtK— Or, The Problem of Vital Force. ' j. iThrou^h Doubt to Faitn— Or, The Problem of a Truet Betrayed. Conduct Toward Woman— Or, The Problem of Self Restraint, Doing As Others Do— Or, The Problem of Self Respect. Self Control— Or, The Problem of Resisting Temptation. Sfte Value of An Education— Or, The Problem of Trained Powers. A Good Name— Or, The Problem of a Clean Record, \ .. :Self Approval vs. Money— Or, The Problem of Fair Dealing. Choosing His Life WorR Of, The Problem of One's Busi- ness Bent. A Woman After His Own Heart— Or, The Problem of a Happy Marriage. ©75>« Supreme Aim— Or, The Problem of the Right Standard. These are some of the problems of intense interest that the anthor brings into talks between two youngr men. The style is entertaining throughout. There is nothing dull or prosy anywhere. " By Lorenzo Carson McLeod. Cloth. . 148 pages. Price, so cents. A. FLANAGAN CO., p«i>ii.H.r.. CHICAGO 15765 JUL 3 OQp WT i » H li T iaii? . a a visit a YELLOWSTONE WHENEVER. YOU CAN. SEASON JUNE. l»t TO SEPTEMBER 15th. BHIS Park is, beyond argument, the Finbst Pleasure Ground in the World, as Congress intended it should be. New hotels have been built and the Gov- ernment has been constructing new roads and greatly improv- ing old ones, so that tourists can visit the Park with more comfort than ever before. There is a gradual increase of visitors to the Park from year to year, and one can remain as long as one pleases, within the season limits. The hotel rates are $4.00 per day for seven days, $3.00 per day after that time, and stopovers are allowed without increased charge for trans- portation. The hotels and service are first-class in every particular and modern — steam heated, electric lighted, etc. — in appointments. This is the geyser land of the world; the trout fishing cannot be beaten anywhere, and the opportunities ior genuine pleasure and profit in sight seeing are greater than are to be f c .nd elsewhere. For six cents I will send our "Wonderland 1902," which has a chapter on the Park ; for 25 cents I will send "Yellowstone' Na- tional Park," an illustrated and descriptive book relating entirely to the Park ; for 50 cents I will send "Wild Flowers from Yellow- stone, " "a thing of beauty and a joy forever." CHAS. S. FILE, General Passenger Agent, Northern Pacific Railway, St. Paul, Minn. P. 0. M&r., '98.