H 1 y./ 1 ■ • .. ■ #•' > A ■ ■ I I , *6:« ft ■ ■ Class JC^i BookJ^2Lfcv7. GopightN CflEOUGUI DKMSm m/ E/s^MW w *9&W WJ Sm^ V^ y €/ Lights and Shades San Francisco. BY B. E. LLOYD. WITH APPROPRIATE ILLUSTRATIONS. Dared I but say a prophecy, As sung the holy men of ol V, '-'■:; iit cities yet to be : these shining shores of gold, ing at hirst into the sea,£ : wondrous marvels might be told! E)iou c o know that Empire here Shalt 'n her loftiest, brightest star. — Poet of the Sierras. SAN FRANCISCO : PRINTED BY A. L. BANCROFT & COMPANY. 1876. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, By B. E. LLOYD and FRANCIS J. HOLAHAN, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C< 33 ^ In WHY. LIFE, in San Francisco, is intense, and has marked pecul- iarities. It is not passive in a single particular. The manners, customs, business, and pleasure of the people, are Opposed to inactivity, at all seasons and in all things. The growth of San Francisco has been rapid; perhaps, unprecedented. The exciting causes that led to this, have formed her characteristics. There is some romance surround- ing her development; and, mingled in it, there was much vivid reality. But it has been purely San Franciscan. The purpose of this volume is to give, in an associated form, sketches of the peculiar characteristics of this young metrop- olis; to make prominent her individuality; to show the reader San Francisco as she is to-day, and in doing this, give him, also, some insight into the causes that led to so rapid a growth. Much that this volume contains has been previously ofiered to the public, in print; so, therefore, we make no claim to originality. AVe have simply revived, and endeavored to renew. It has been our aim to treat only those subjects that are of interest to all, and present them in a concise and terse style. How we have succeeded, the reader must judge. Tue Author. San Feancisco, September 1, 1876. ILLUSTRATIONS. P AGE Lights and Shades Frontispiece Palace Hotel BO Cliff-Housk and Seal Rocks 71 INTERIOR OF THE GbBAT BTBBX VAUM (SAFE DEPOSIT COMPANY) ... 83 Mercantile Library Building 11G Interior View of "Wade's Opera Houbb 146 View of Clay Street showing the WlBB Railroad 175 Representative ( 'iiinese 218 Iktbbiob of Chinese Theatre 244 Vikw of Gods in Chinese "Joss" HotTBl 2C9 Ban* Eorr'e Building — Sectional View 294 Vikw in "Woodward's Gardens 325 " Git Your Razors' Ground " 357 The " Baldwin " — Hotel and Academy of Music 37G The U. S. Mint 397 The " Coltma " of the P. M. S. S. Co.'s Fleet 423 The Denman School Building 472 The " First School House " 476 The Old Mission Dolores 501 The Mission Dolores — Restored 501 Departure of Steamer — Steamer-Day 522 Golden Gate (Vignette) 16 CONTENTS. I. SAY FRANCE PAGES. THE MISSION " DOLORES" ITS FOUNDERS EARLr VISITORS TO SAN FRANCISCO THE EFFECT OF THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD RAPID POPULATION FIRES THE HOUNDS ASSASSINATION OF JAMES KINtr OF WILLIAM THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE OF '5G — EXECUTION OF CORA AND CASEY IMPRISONMENT OF JUDGE TERRY — THE YIGILANTS DISBAND THE CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD— SAN FRANCISCO, THE "PARIS OF AMER- ICA " THE CLIMATE, SCHOOLS, CHURCHES, ETC 17-32 II. MINING STOCKS. THE DIFFERENT STOCK BOARDS " BULLS " AND " BEARS " MEETING OF THE BOARDS, AND ATTENDING EXCITEMENT "WILD CATS" CURBSTONE BROKERS WHO SPECULATE IN STOCKS SOME RESULTS A DARK PICTURE A BRIGHTER SIDE MAGNITUDE OF THE BUSINESS BROKERS' SHARP PRAC- TICE " PUTS " AND " CALLS " MARGINS THE EFFECT OF A LIFE ON CALIFORNIA STREET 33-45 m. THOMAS STARE ETXG. SKETCH OF HIS LIFE — HIS DEATH HIS GENIUS AND LABOR . . . 4G-49 IV. THE PALACE HOTEL. ITS INCEPTION AND COMPLETION ITS IMMENSITY THE ARCHITEC- TURE A LITTLE WORLD OF ITSELF THE PROPRIETOR, WILLIAM SHARON WARREN LELAND, THE LANDLORD 50-57 8 CONTENTS. V. FOREIGNERS IN SAN FRANCISCO. PAGES. COSMOPOLITAN CHAItACTEK OF THE INHABITANTS — FAVORITE PUR- SUITS INFLUENCE OF THE FOREIGN ELEMENT 58-61 VI. RESTAURANT LIFE IN ' SAN FRANCISCO. THE ABUNDANCE OF EATING-HOUSES WHO PATRONIZE RESTAU- RANTS MAISON DOREE CAMPl's UNITED STATES RESTAU- RANT OTHER EATING PLACES, AND WHO PATRONIZE THEM . G2-66 VII. THE CLIFF-HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS. THE VIEW DRIVES TO AND FROM THE CLIFF CLIFF-HOUSE CAPT. FOSTER 67-70 VIII. WILLIAM C. RALSTON HIS EARLY LIFE ARRTVAL IN SAN FRANCISCO CONNECTION WITH THE BANK OF CALIFORNIA HIS DEATH PUBLIC EXCITEMENT AT HIS DEATH VALUE TO SAN FRANCISCO 71-77 IX. BARB ART COAST. THE CURSE-MARK ON SAN FRANCISCO'S BROW PROSTITUTION WAVERLY PLACE GILDED PALACES HOW THE RANKS ARE RECRUITED CONTRASTING PICTURES 78-87 X. THE SAFE DEPOSIT COMPANY OF SAN FRANCISCO. THE BUILDING THE COMPANY THE VAULTS SECURITY THE PATROLS — J. C. DUNCAN, THE PROJECTOR 88-00 XI. JAMES LICK. HIS EARLY LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO "LICK'S FOLLY " HIS MUNIFICENCE 91-97 XII. "JACK." \~- ASHORE— BETHELS — SALLOKS' HOME — POOR " JACK ". 98-103 CONTENTS. 9 XIII. THE TOPOGRAPHY OF SAN FRANCISCO. PAGES. TELEGRAPH HILL LONE MOUNTAIN. . . . 104-107 XIV. THE ELITE. WHO ARE THEY A WEDDING IN THE UPPER TEN A FASHIONA- BLE FUNERAL , 108 -1 11 XV. THE BANE OF CALIFORNIA. ITS FOUNDING SUCCESS — SUSPENSION AND RESUMPTION .... 112-115 XVI. THE PUBLIC LIBRARIES. REFINED PUBLIC TASTE THE MERCANTILE LIBRARY THE MECHAN- ICS' INSTITUTE LIBRARY ODD FELLOWS' LIBRARY SMALLER LIBRARIES 11G-120 XVII. SUNDAY IN SAN FRANCISCO. FIRST BELL SECOND BELL SUNDAY AMUSEMENTS PICNICS BEER GARDENS SUNDAY NIGHT 121-125 XVIII. THE SUMNER LIGHT GUARD. MILITARY COMPANY E AS MARKSMEN THE " SUMNEES" SO- CIALLY 126-131 XIX. EMPEROR NORTON. HIS EARLY LIFE ' c EMPEROR OF CALIFORNIA AND PROTECTOR OF MEXICO" DRESS, HABITS 132-134 XX. THE COUNTY JAIL AND CITY PRISON. THE COUNTY JAIL THE CITY PRISON PRISON LIFE 135-139 XXI. THE POLICE FORCE. THE CITY GOVERNMENT THE POLICE DEPARTMENT STRENGTH OF THE FORCE HLADgUARTERS OF THE DEPARTMENT. . 140-145 10 CONTENTS. XXII. THEATRES. PAGES. THE EMBRYOTIC PERIOD OF THE SAN FRANCISCO STAGE THE CAL- IFORNIA THEATRE JOHN MCCULLOUGH MAGUIRE's OPERA HOUSE AND NEW THEATRE WADE's OPERA HOUSE AND ART GALLERY OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT 146-158 XXIII. MARK TWAIN'S INNOCENCE (AT HOME). A LECTURE HE MEETS OPPOSITION OMINOUS PROTESTS DEFI- ANCE TO ALL 159-1G1 XXIV. CALIFORNIA'S HISTORIAN. HUBERT H. BANCROFT HIS GREAT LIBRARY LITERARY WORK- SHOP "THE NATIVE RACES OF THE PACIFIC STATES" FORTHCOMING WORKS 162-171 XXV. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT. THE EFFICIENCY OF THE FORCE THE GOVERNMENT OF THE DE- PARTMENT THE UNDERWRITERS* FIRE PATROL 172-174 XXVI. STREET RAILROADS. THE BENEFITS OF STREET RAILWAYS EXTENT OF THE BUSINESS CLAY STREET HILL RAILROAD ABUSES QUERY 175-179 XXVII. SALOONS. DRUNKENNESS ARISTOCRATIC SALOONS HOT LUNCH CORNER GROCERIES 180-185 XXVIII. THE PRESS OF SAN FRANCISCO. THE PRESS THE ALTA CALIFORNIA BULLETIN AND CALL THE EXAMINES — TnE EVENING POST — THE STOCK REPORT — THE STOCK EXCHANGE FIGARO DAILIES AND WEEKLIES IN FOR- 1 u:.\ LANGUAGES— WEEKLIES 186-202 CONTENTS. 11 XXIX. GAMBLING. PAGES. THE FIRST "GAME OF CHANCE " IN CALIFORNIA GAMBLING IN SAN FRANCISCO — GAMBLING-HOUSES 203-207 XXX. THE SUBJECTS OF THE CELESTIAL KINGDOM. THE MONGOLIAN'S HOME HIS MIGRATION INFLUENCE ON THE COUNTRY 208-217 XXXI. THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. THE NUMBER DOMESTIC HABITS, DRESS, CUSTOMS, ETC. NEW YEAR A FUNERAL A BANQUET COST OF LIVING 218-235 XXXII. CHINATOWN. ACQUISITION OF TERRITORY ECONOMY OF SPACE THE BUSINESS HOUSES OF THE CHINAMEN SIGN-BOARD LITERATURE. . .236-343 XXXIII. BUSINESS HABITS OF THE CHINESE. AN ENTERPRISING RACE FAVORITE PURSUITS APTNESS CHINESE EXCLUSIVELY— TAXPAYING 244-253 XXXIY. A NIGHT STROLL THROUGH CHINATOWN. UPON THE STREETS GAMBLING-HOUSES HOUSES OF PROSTITU- TION — OPIUM DENS — BACK ! A LEPER ! — IN THE THEATRE . 254-2G6 XXXV. A CHINESE NEWSPAPER — MISCELLANEOUS LITERATURE 267-2G8 XXXVI. THE RELIGION OF THE CHINESE. CONFUCIUS, LAO-TSZE, BUDDHA — HEATHEN TEMPLES 2G9-275 12 CONTENTS. XXXVII. THE SIX CHINESE COMPANIES. PAGES. CO-OPERATION THE SIX COMPANIES . .-. 276-279 XXXVIII. MISSION WORK AMONG THE CHINESE. CHRISTIANIZING THE HEATHEN — THE WORK OF THE CHURCHES OF SAN FRANCISCO 280-285 XXXIX. THE " HEATHEN CHINEE." HIS TACT THE MEMORIAL OF THE SIX COMPANIES PECULIAR ENTERPRISE OF THE HEATHEN .286-293 XL. A. L. BANCROFT & CO., PUBLISHERS. J INO OF THE HOUSE — BUILDING AND DEPARTMENTS . . . 294-296 XLL THE "HOODLUM." WHO IS HE WHERE IS HE PROBLEMS... .......-..-, _ J297-300 XLII. BRET HARTE AND THE OVERLAND MONTHLY. a venture the literati of san francisco failure bret harte's • ' first" poem 301-307 XLIII. THE FOUNDRIES. IRON MANUFACTURING — UNION IRON WORKS — RISDON IRON WORKS PACIFIC IRON WORKS 308-317 XLIV. EARTHQUAKES. THE DREAD OF " EASTERNERS" TWO MEMORABLE DAYS — INCI- DENTS — TREMBLINGS 318-324 XLV. WOODWARD'S GARDENS. THE GROUNDS — THE MUSEUM — THE PAVILION — THE ZOOLOGICAL DEPARTMENT — THE AQUARIUM — SEAL PONDS — OTHER ATTRAC- * ANDREWS, MANAGER 325-331 CONTENTS. 13 XL VI. A BONANZA DEVELOPMENT. PAGES. A SAN FRANCISCO SPECIMEN WHENCE CAME IT THE STRUC- TURE THE RESERVE FUND THE PROPRIETORS 332-335 XLVII. STREET P REACHING. THE HABITUES OF THE STREET THE PREACHERS THE AUDI- ENCE 33G-339 XL VIII. THE NIGHT WORKERS. FOR SOME MUST WORK WHILE OTHERS SLEEP , 340-342 XLIX. THE HAMMAM. an oriental building the baths value of the hot-air bath 343-348 L. S UICIDE— INSANITY. SUICIDE MANIA MOST COMMON CAUSES OF SELF-DESTRUCTION DIFFERENT METHODS EMPLOYED INSANITY 349-352 LI. GOLDEN GATE PARK. CONTRASTS DESCRIPTIVE DIFFICULTIES TO OVERCOME VISITORS TO THE PARK THE PARK COMMISSIONERS PARK POLICE . 353-356 LII. STREET CRIERS. A CITY "TINS TO MEND" " RAGS, SACKS AND BOTTLES " QUACK MEDICINES GAMINS STREET ECHOES 357-3C3 LIII. THE CEMETERIES. LONE MOUNTAIN LAUREL HILL CEMETERY CHINESE GRAVES MASONIC AND ODD FELLOWS' BURIAL GROUNDS CALVARY CEMETERY 3G4-3G8 14 CONTENTS. LIV. E. J. BALDWIN'S HOTEL AND THEATRE. PAGES. E. J. BALDWIN THE " BALDWIN" BALDWTN's ACADEMY OF MU- SIC 369-376 LV. THE MARKETS. FEOITS — VEGETABLES — MEATS AND FISH 377-378 LVI. DIVORCES— SUDDEN DEATHS. SOCIETY DISEASED ALARMING STATISTICS " UNTIL DEATH US DO PART" SOME CAUSES SUDDEN DEATHS 379-385 LYII. ACROSS THE BAY. OAKLAND AND ALAMEDA — CROSSING THE FERRY OVERLAND ARRI- VALS — SAN RAFAEL, SAUCELITO, AND SAN QUENTIN . . . .386-396 LVIII. GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. THE MINT THE POST-OFFICE THE CUSTOMHOUSE 397-400 LIX. THE TRIBE OF ISRAEL. THE JEWS AS CITIZENS — SYNAGOGUES 401-404 LX. BLACKMAILING AND CONFIDENCE GAMES. HOW BLACKMAILING IS PRACTICED A BIOGRAPHICAL FIEND CLIP- PINGS FROM A DETECTIVE'S DIARY CONFIDENCE SWIND- LERS NEWSPAPERS AS ABETTORS 405-413 LXI. THE PALETTE AND EASEL. Tin: SAN FRANCISCO ART ASSOCIATION — SAN FRANCISCO ARTISTS ELAINE 414-419 LXII. THE CAMERA OBSCURA. B \N I I; AXCISCO'S PHOTOGRAPHERS 420-422 CONTENTS. 15 LXIII. THE PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP CO. PAGES. ORIGIN THE FLEET OCEAN TRAVEL AND TRAFFIC A FLOATING PALACE SAN FRANCISCO WHARVES AND OFFICE 423-427 LXIV. CHARITIES. BENEVOLENCE BENEVOLENT SOCIETIES HOSPITALS ASYLUMS 428-43 LXV. SAN FRANCISCO'S FORTIFICATIONS. THE WATCH-DOG AT THE GATE ALCATRAZ OTHER POINTS OF DEFENSE 43G-442 LXVI. QUACKS. QUACKERY — SPECIALISTS QUACK LITERATURE — EXAMPLES OF SUC- CESS 443-448 LXVII. HOTELS OF SAN FRANCISCO. HOTEL LIFE FIRST-CLASS HOTELS HOTELS OF THE SECOND RANK OTHER HOTELS 449-452 LXVIII. THE DeTOUNG BROTHERS AND THE "MORNING CHRONICLE." AN EXAMPLE OF ENTERPRISE THE "DRAMATIC CHRONICLE" THE " SAN FRANCISCO DAILY MORNING CHRONICLE " LIBEL SUITS CIRCULATION AND MANAGEMENT CHARLES AND M. H. DEYOUNG 353-467 LXIX. CALIFORNIA PIONEERS. " THE ARGONAUTS OF 'FORTY-NINE " SOCIETY OF PIONEERS — THE TERRITORIAL PIONEERS 468-471 LXX. THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS. LIBERALITY MANAGEMENT AND CLASSIFICATION THE SCHOOL BUILDINGS THE TEACHERS THE COST OF MAINTAINING THEM — PIONEER SCHOOLS 472-475 16 CONTENTS. LXXI. THE AMERICAN DISTRICT TELEGRAPH. PAGES. HOW OPERATED A CONVENIENCE AND PROTECTION THE SAN FRANCISCO COMPANY .* 476-477 LXXII. THE TURF. THE HIGH-METTLED RACERS THE RACING REGISTER TROTTING HORSES THE CALIFORNIA TROTTERS' RECORD 478-482 LXXIII. CLUBS. THEIR PREVALENCE AND OBJECTS SAN FRANCISCO CLUBS THE UNION, PACIFIC, CALIFORNIA, TURN-VEREIN, CALEDONIAN, BO- HEMIAN AND OLYMPIC 483-487 LXXIV. KEARNY AND MONTGOMERY STREETS. FASHIONABLE THOROUGHFARES SHOW-WINDOW DISPLAYS KEARNY STREET AT NIGHT 48&491 LXXV. THE CHURCHES. PROTESTANTISM CATHOLICISM .. 492-498 LXXVI. EARLY REMINISCENCES. FIFTEEN HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-NINE, A. D. A HUNDRED YEARS AGO THE JESUIT DYNASTY YERBA BUENA GOLD ! GOLD ! ! SUPERLATIVE DESPERADOES AND THEIR ANTIDOTES DUEL- ING — " steamer-day" 499-523 Lights and Shades in San Francisco, SAN FRANCISCO. THE MISSION " DOLORES" — ITS FOUNDERS — EARLY VISITORS TO SAN FRANCISCO THE EFFECT OF THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD RAPED POPU- LATION FIRES THE "HOUNDS" ASSASSINATION OF JAMES KING OF WILLIAM THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE OF '56 EXECUTION OF CORA AND CASEY IMPRISONMENT OF JUDGE TERRY THE VIGILANTS DISBAND THE CENTRAL PACEFIC RAILROAD SAN FRANCISCO, THE "PARIS OF AMERICA" THE CLIMATE, SCHOOLS, CHURCHES, ETC. THE MISSION DOLORES— ITS FOUNDERS. SAN FKANCISCO is of considerable antiquity. On the 17th of September, 1776, the presidio of San Francisco was founded. On the 9th of the following month, the mission "De los Dolores de Nuestro Padre San Francisco de Asis" was established. This mission was named in honor of Saint Francis of Assisi, the founder of the order of Franciscans. In remembrance of his sufferings the mission itself was comroonry known as the " Mission Dolores," while the presidio and fort kept the Saint's name. The mission system adopted by these early Fathers was for the conversion of the native Indians. The presidios were for defense. Parts of the old Mission Dolores are standing to-day — some of the outer adobe walls 2 (17) 18 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. and patches of the interior finish. The presidio was an en- closure of about three hundred yards square, surrounded by an adobe wall from ten to twelve feet high. Part of the wall yet remains, a reminder of those early days. It has always been a matter of doubt whether San Francisco was ever a pueblo. In the early American career of the city, this was a subject of much dispute. The Supreme Court of the State, and also the Federal Court of the district, however, decided that it was. From 1779 to 1830 San Francisco enjoyed an undisturbed repose; a sort of "Sleepy Hollow" drowsiness reigned supreme over all its inhabitants, the dull monotony of which was only disturbed by an occasional visit from exploring or trading ves- sels, drifting, as it were, almost by accident up the channel, through the Golden Gate. Among these vessels were the American ships Alexander and Aser, which entered the harbor on the 1st of August, 1803. In 1807 the Kussians made their appearance. That there was little of the spirit of progression and enter- prise among the population is very evident. In .1834, more than fifty years after its founding, San Francisco, or the Mis- sion Dolores, had only a population of five hundred Indians. Their possessions were five thousand horned cattle, one thou- sand six hundred horses and mules, four thousand sheep, goats and hogs, and two thousand five hundred bushels of grain. On July 8, 1846, the American flag was hoisted for the first time in San Francisco. From this time forward, the city may be said to have been under American rule. During this month a company of Mormons from New York, with Samuel Brannan as leader, arrived and camped at the base of the sand-hills. Had it not been that dissensions and quarrels sprung up among them and caused their disbandment, it is highly probable that San Francisco, and not Salt Lake, would have been the seat of the earthly kingdom of these saints. THE EFFECT OF THE DISCOVERT OF GOLD. In January, 1847, the American inhabitants numbered about three hundred, and the city boasted of a weekly newspaper, the California Star, published by Mr. Brannan. The overland immigration had marked out a trail during this year, and the SAN FRANCISCO. 19 influx that followed gradually swelled the population of the little town until, in March of the succeeding year, it numbered over eight hundred. Everything now bade fair for the young metropolis. The older towns in the State acknowledged the superior locality of San Francisco. A hum of business was abroad in its streets. Steamers were panting on the Bay. It had been whispered during the spring that rich gold dig- gings had been discovered in the up-country. Every day the rumors gained credence. Small parties packed up, and went on prospecting tours. By June, the truth of the rumor was known. Carpenters dropped their hammers. Blacksmiths closed their shops. Storekeepers left their counters; teachers, their schools; preachers, their pulpits; printers, their type- cases; and editors, their sanctums. Everybody was feverish with anxiety to be off; and suddenly, "as if by a plague, the town was depopulated." Scarce an able-bodied man was to be seen upon the streets. However, manj^ soon became disgusted with the rough life in the mining camp, and returned to the city. Others who had gone to try their fortunes were successful and came back laden with the precious metal. In due time the news was abroad in the Eastern States, and then it was that the great rush to the California gold field was inaugurated. San Francisco was the port of destination to those who made the journey by water, and many who came overland, after a brief sojourn in the mines, naturally drifted to the city. The inhabitants numbered two thousand in the first of the year 1849. Money was plenty — not coin, but gold dust, nuggets and ingots. Enormous prices were paid for labor of all kinds. Crime was rampant. In the summer of '49 the organization of desperadoes, known as the "Hounds," perpetrated their outrages. Gambling was in high repute. Yet the city progressed with giant strides. By the end of the year there were twenty thousand inhabitants. Six hundred and ninety-seven vessels had arrived in seven and a half months. Board was five dollars a day. A small room with a single bed rented for one hundred and fifty dollars a month. Wood cost forty dollars per cord, and flour and pork forty to sixty dollars per barrel. Commercially the port of San Fran- cisco was up to the standard of Philadelphia. Such was the condition of affairs in San Francisco, when, on May 1, 1850, the first Legislature voted it a city charter. 20 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. Previous to this date the city government had been adminis- tered under an Alcalde. Under the new charter, this office was transferred to the Mayoralty. Colonel J. W. Geary holding the office of Alcalde when the Americanized charter was created, succeeded to the office of Mayor. So great a flood of popula- tion coming in so suddenly, was more than the meagre hos- pitality afforded at that time could accommodate; it was a city of tents. There was much discomfort had on account of the excess of rain during the winter. The streets were unim- proved, and to those who were thus poorly domiciled it was a gloomy outlook. Omnibuses that were too heavy for the con- dition of the streets, were used as restaurants; old ships were beached and converted into "first-class" boarding-houses. When the rainy season had passed, those who contemplated remaining in the city set to work constructing better dwelling- places. Houses were merely thrown together. Large build- ings were run up like a mushroom's growth. Constructed as they were out of redwood, with paper ceilings and cloth parti- tions, they were but kindling to the fire-fiend, should he start on a tour of devastation. On May 4, 1850, a fire broke out that consumed three million dollars' worth of property. On the 14th of June following, another fire destroyed four millions worth, and in September a half million dollars' worth of prop- erty was lost in a conflagration. During the half decade from 1850 to 1855, the city enjoyed unparalleled prosperity; there was thrift on every hand. The Bay in those days was a busy scene, and commerce reaped a splendid harvest. Everything for consumption was imported, while the exports were a few hides and millions of gold. In 1852 the vessels arriving at this port averaged seven a day. Numerous wharves were run far out into deep water, costing millions of dollars for their building. Steamers were plowing through the bay, and up the rivers. Everything was alive wiili business, and money was superabundant. Yet there were many trials undergone, and many obstacles bad to be met by the inhabitants. Desperadoes and villains of ;tll classes flocked to the city from all parts of the world. Crime was open-faced. The courts were inactive and lynch law oft- linics prevailed. Vigilance Committees were often formed, and would Eor a time take the punishment of criminals in their bands. Disastrous fires were of frequent occurrence. SAN FRANCISCO. 21 ASSASSINATION OF JAMES KING OF WILLIAM. In the common rule of nature, after a protracted calm there is usually a storm; so, often is it the experience in the lives of men, that, after a season of prosperity, follows a period of adversity. San Francisco, by reason of her exceeding pros- perity, could not claim exemption from calamities. A financial breaker rolled over her that wrecked some of her most sea- worthy craft. Page, Bacon & Co., bankers; Adams & Co., Dr. Wright's Savings Bank, and James King of William, were prominent among those who succumbed to the pressure. Following this, came a sort of social anarchy. Society was sore diseased. Villainy wielded the balance of power, and honesty was at a discount. " The law's delay, the insolence of office," became the chafing cause of much discomfort. Honest voters on election day felt that it was but ill-spent time to cast a vote. Ballot-box stuffing, not vox populi, placed men in office. In short, the town was ruled by gamblers, rowdies and State-prison convicts. "Sydney ducks" were cackling in the pond. At this juncture, James King of William took the edito- rial chair, and began the publication of the Evening Bulletin. Notwithstanding he was a tyro in the profession, his power was felt among the evildoers. He a implied the lash without respect to rank or wealth. Dealing with facts alone, he feared no libel suits. He unveiled crime wherever it existed. When it was supposed that Cora, the murderer of Marshal Kichard- son, was loosely held by the sheriff, he came out in the boldest terms. Said he: "If Mr. Sheriff Scannell does not remove Billy Mulligan from his present post as keeper of the County Jail, and Mulligan lets Cora escape, hang Billy Mulligan; and if necessary to get rid of the sheriff, hang him — hang the sheriff!" An attack of similar tone upon one Casey — a mem- ber of the Board of Supervisors — led to the attempted assas- sination of Mr. King, on the 14th day of May, 185G. Casey was an ex-convict of Sing Sing Prison, and in the editorial by Mr. King this fact was set forth. Casey revenged himself by shooting Mr. King down in the street a few hours after the article was published. The sympathy of the best citizens was w r ith the wounded man. Fearing an attack on the jail where Casey was confined, the military were ordered out. The en- 22 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. raged citizens gathered about the prison. Excitement ran high. Mayor Yan Ness attempted to address them from the front of the jail. He advised them to disperse, and let the law take its course; but the lion was roused. Cries came up from the restless multitude, "Where is the law?" "There is too much law and too little justice in California." "Down with such justice!" At a late hour of the night the crowd dispersed. THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. But this temporary lull was only a time of quiet preparation for a general uprising of the outraged subjects of a law whose letter was good, but the administration of which was in the hands of men for whose punishment the law was made. The Vigilance Committee that had been organized as early as 1851, met and effected a reorganization. Within thirty hours after King was shot, more than two thousand names were enrolled on their books. Hundreds stood without the doors of the Committee's rooms, anxiously awaiting their turn to subscribe to a pledge, the principles of which, if carried out, would purge the city of the ballot-box stuffers, jury packers, swindlers, thieves and villains generally. The meetings were held with closed doors. This secrecy terrified the guilty, and many fled the city. Others attempted to enroll themselves among the number, but there was an " all-seeing eye" peering from the heading of the official paper, that signified that whether within the ranks of the organization or without, eveiy one was sub- ject to its penetrating gaze. This freed the ranks of all hypo- crites. The leading papers, although conservative in tone, with one exception, were considered favorable to the organization. The clergy withheld condemnation. One minister said in his pulpit: "A people can be justified in recalling delegated power and resuming its exercise in trying emergencies." Bulletins were posted in prominent places detailing King's condition. He still lingered, though it was evident his wound would prove fatal. The streets were thronged with armed men. With quiet tread the}' marched to the jail where Casey Avas con- fined. When a brass cannon had been mounted in range of the jail door, they demanded that he and Cora be deliv- ered to their custody. With little delay the demand was SAN FRANCISCO. 23 acceded to. The trembling prisoners were conveyed in irons to the headquarters of the "Vigilantes." The following day, about noontime, James King of William breathed his last. The bells of the town tolled forth the melancholy tidings. Montgomery street, and in fact the whole city, soon wore the sable badge of mourning. Business of all kinds was suspend- ed. Crape trimmings were draped upon many of the resi- dences, and streamed from the door-knobs of the business houses. A paralyzing gloom for a time reigned supreme. One of the best citizens had gone to his death by the hand of an assassin. San Francisco was a plague-stricken city. No epi- demic disease was raging; no famine was tormenting the in- habitants; but there was an even more dreaded calamity afflict- ing them — crime in its most dangerous form held the mastery. The streets in all directions were darkened with men hurriedly l^ressing on to the headquarters of the "Vigilantes." It was the prevailing opinion that the criminals confined there would be speedily executed after the death of Mr. King. But this was erroneous. Casey was having his trial. There was not to be any punishment administered to the innocent; and if he was found guiltless, he should go free. On the succeeding day, a vast concourse of people slowly wended their way to Lone Mountain, where they deposited in its last resting-place the body of the mourned dead. But pre- vious to this, Casey's trial had been concluded, and a sentence of murder entered against him. While the greater part of the populace were witnessing the last sad rites at the grave of their dead friend, quiet prepara- tions were going on at the committee-rooms for the enacting of a scene that would strike terror to the heart of every crim- inal. A scaffold had been shot out from the seconcl-story win- dow of the committee-rooms; Casey and Cora were placed upon it, and the same bells that tolled the funeral march, sounded the dirge of these doomed criminals. Ere the fleetest of foot had returned from the grave, the bodies of Casey and Cora were dangling from the cornice. The Vigilance Committee had begun their purging task in earnest. They soon had arrested several of the most notorious villains, and, when a fortnight had passed, the city presented a more peaceful aspect. The coroner's work had been much reduced. The newspapers were minus the regular bloody rec- 24 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. orcl. No more was it considered of great risk to walk abroad at night time, and security was felt by all law-abiding citizens. But the vicious and criminal classes, if any remained, were restless with anxiety; what had been their place of refuge was now the most dangerous ground for them to tread. There were some among the inhabitants who at this stage of its existence deemed it proper that the Committee should disband. Two of the daily papers came out in ojyposition to longer vigilance rule; one prominent clergyman strenuously ojjposed them. The politicians undertook to make capital out of its existence, and a strong faction urged that it disband. Meetings were appointed of anti-vigilante character, but the sympathy of the masses was yet with the Committee. On the third of June, 1856, Governor Johnson issued a proc- lamation declaring San Francisco in a state of insurrection. William T. Sherman was commissioned major-general, and in his proclamation the Governor commanded all volunteer com- panies, and all persons subject to militaiy duty, to report at once to him, and remain in readiness for further orders. The Vigilance Committee was commanded to disband. This, perhaps, was the plain duty of the Governor, but the good results following the reign of the Committee made the existence of that organization the desire of the masses. A few men enrolled themselves, but the proclamation was by no means received favorably. Seeing that there would probably be some attempt made by the Governor and his adherents to force it to disband, the Committee opened its books for new enlistments, fortified its headquarters, and made general preparations for defense. In this dilemma the Governor ap- plied to the President at Washington for advice and aid. The President declined to interfere. Some misunderstanding having obtained between Major Sherman and the Governor, the former tendered his resignation. This was accepted, and Mr. Yolney E. Howard was appointed as his successor. A shipment of arms and ammunition, in charge of Reuben Maloney, to Major Howard, had been made from Sacramento by the Governor, and the Vigilance Committee, learning of this, sent ..ui a squad of men, who boarded the vessel and transferred to the Committee's arsenal all the ammunition and aims. Another schooner was making a landing about this time, having on board, as was supposed, a cargo of bricks. SAN FRANCISCO. 25 The Vigilants looked upon this craft with suspicious eyes, and, after going on board and turning up a few layers of bricks, discovered twelve cases of rifles and six of ammunition. This was another installment from the Governor to Major Howard. These also soon found storage in the Committee's arsenal. This was on June 20, 1856. On the day following, a meeting of the Committee was held, at which it desired Mr. Maloney to be present, to explain the circumstances connected with the shipment of arms that he had charge of. Mr. A. Hopkins, of the Vigilance police, was detailed to go and bring him. He, with two assistants, pro- ceeded to the office of Dr. H. P. Ashe, United States Naval Agent, where they found Maloney in company with Dr. Ashe and Associate Justice David S. Terry, of the Supreme Court. These two gentlemen informed Hopkins that no arrest could be made in their presence. Hopkins, therefore, returned to the Committee's rooms for reinforcements. During his absence, Terry and Ashe armed themselves and descended to the street with Maloney , whom they designed to escort to the armory on Dupont Street and place him in charge of the "Law and Order" troops. Hopkins's party, however, soon overtook them. As they drew near to each other, Terry and Ashe handled their arms in so threatening a manner as to cause Hopkins to suppose that resistance would be made. Hopkins sprang upon Terry, while another officer seized Ashe. The latter surrendered at once, but Terry strug- gled desperately to free himself, and, before the struggle was ended, Hopkins received a severe cut in the neck from a knife in the hands of Terry. During the excitement that this con- flict naturally occasioned, the three escaped. The great bell over the rooms of the Vigilant Committee sounded a call to arms. Men of all trades and professions quit their respective offices or workshops, and, in an hour's time, the streets were filled with an excited multitude rushing with great speed to the Committee's rooms. Vigilants had soon surrounded the Dupont Street armory. The soldiery that occupied this, see- ing 'that resistance would be useless, sued for peace. The conditions of the treaty were brief and to the point. The Vigilants demanded the persons of Judge Terry and Reuben Maloney. These gentlemen were brought out, and then the whole armory, with its quota of muskets was given, over to the 26 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAX FRANCISCO. besiegers. In hot haste they inarched through the city to every armory or place where the "Law and Order" forces were stationed, and by night the Yigilantes were masters of the city. Not a shot had been fired. The prison cells at the Committee's rooms were filled with men who had been captured at the "Law and Order'"' armo- ries. Hopkins, the officer wounded by Judge Terry, was in a critical condition, and Terry was languishing in his cell, per- haps secretly hoping that the gash he had inflicted would soon heal, for upon the recovery of his victim depended his escape from the gallows. With the Vigilants, rank and position had no influence. Terry, however, had many friends who inter- ested themselves in his behalf. In Texas, his former home, the Legislature submitted a memorial to Congress, praying the Federal Government to interfere in his behalf. It was hotly debated and referred to the Judiciary Committee, but was never reported upon. When Hopkins had recovered, and after a protracted trial, in which over one hundred and fifty witnesses had been examined, Judge Terry was liberated, having occupied his cell as prisoner for almost seven weeks. He was advised by the Committee to resign his judgeship. The 12th of August, 1856, found the cells of the Vigilance Committee empty. The city enjoyed unusual immunity from crime and disorder. The members of the Committee felt there was no further work, for the present, required of them; therefore they publicly signified their intention of immediately disband- ing. Six days later — Monday, August 18 — business in the citj was generally suspended, and the streets were thronged with the inhabitants who had gathered to witness the grand final parade of the " San Francisco Committee of Vigilance." There was a flag presentation; speeches were made; and the Execu- tive Committee published an address to the General Commit- tee, setting forth the motives of organization, reciting that the purposes of the Committee had been accomplished, and recom- mending its members to return to their respective avocations, and let the civil authorities resume control of the city. They, however, reserved the discretion of reassembling should emergencies arise when they felt the safety of life and society demanded such action. They kept their guards on duty until about the first of September, when the flag over the rooms was lowered . and thus ended the unwholesome con- SAN FRANCISCO. 27 flict. The work they had performed spoke for itself. Four criminals had been executed; about twenty-five had been ban- ished; and those whom fright drove from the city was variously estimated at from five to eight hundred. On the 3d of No- vember the Committee surrendered the State arms that it had captured, to the Governor; the proclamation of insurrec- tion was withdrawn, and things resumed their regular routine. The example set by the metropolis, of the citizens thus taking the administration of the laws into their own hands, when the outlaws and vagabonds became too overbearing, has since been followed many times in almost all the prominent mining towns of the coast. These mining camps, in their l^rosperous days, become the ''hunting-ground" of thieves, gamblers, murderers, and adventurers of all kinds, who some- times commit such high-handed outrages that the law-abiding citizens are fain to rise in their wrath, and smite them hip and thigh. This sudden vengeance usually takes the form of "Lynch law," and the morals of the community are purged and cleansed by the expulsion or hanging of the leaders of the outlaws. Of late days, these Committees style themselves " 601," and written "notices to quit," signed with this mystic number, generally offer sufficient inducement for suspected characters to change their places of abode, without further action being necessary. No mining camp of any notoriety has escaped the infliction of the "roughs;" but when the Committee of "601" is organized, and its official announce- ments are made, the towns are soon cleared of objectionable characters, who know the result of non-compliance with the order too well to brave it. PROSPERITY. The most exciting epoch in the history of San Francisco is now past. Since the disbandment of the Vigilance Committee in 1856, there has been a comparative exemption from riotous gatherings on her streets. Yet, almost every page of her his- tory is crimsoned with blood, and crime and vice have always been more open than in many other cities of equal importance. This, however, can be accounted for by the rapid growth the city has made. San Francisco is most decidedly cosmopolitan in its character. Through its broad gateway to the sea, and over its continental 28 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. highway, have thronged people of all nations, all creeds, and all characters, having but one idea in common — the thirst for gold. Arriving here with exaggerated opinions of the fortunes to be made, they find that in California, as elsewhere, it takes work to make money. Many who are disappointed in their hopes of accumulating a fortune in a year's time, fall back on the metropolis of the coast as the best place to make a living without work. As this class increased, crime increased. Thieves and vagabonds of all kinds flock to "the city 53 to ply their nefarious vocations; and the records of our criminal courts show with what energy these outcasts carry out their plans. Notwithstanding the presence of so many of such classes, in proportion to the population, the advance of the city has been unprecedented. In population, in commerce, in the arts and sciences, in short, in everything that tends to transform a town into a great metropolis, San Francisco has no peer. Nature has done much for her. Located as she is, on the magnificent Bay of San Francisco, whose waters can easily float the fleets of the world, and the position she occupies as to the Orient, has naturally brought through her gates the greater part of the traffic between the United States and that country. The agricultural and mineral resources of the State that have been developed in the last twenty years, have also done much toward the progress of the city. The completion of the Central Pacific Railroad in 18G9, opening up convenient and quick communication wdth the Eastern States and the interior, was the grand, triumph for the city and State. From the time the first train came thunder- ing down the Sacramento Yalley with its freight of Eastern passengers, there has been an almost unceasing stream of travel pouring into the city. Long lines of freight cars have daily come and gone laden with the varied freights that the disturbed equilibrium of demand and supply keep in transit. It is no doubt true, however, that for a time after the comple- tion of the railroad, the city of San Francisco itself felt its business in a measure depressed. The merchants of the city, accustomed before to receive all the orders for goods from the interior of California and Nevada, found that the interior mer- chants could make good bargains for themselves in the East, and that in this way much of the business of San Francisco SAN FRANCISCO. 29 •was lost. A whole horde of " runners " from Eastern cities infested the coast, and to a great extent changed the channels of trade. The interior towns became more independent of the metropolis in the matter of sujDplies, and many of the country merchants began to import their own goods. However, as San Francisco commands so much capital, and all the large importers and wholesale dealers are here, these difficulties have adjusted themselves, and she still remains "queen of the Pacific." Her merchants are even more prosperous than of yore, as increase of population has brought with it increase of trade. There have been some financial panics and disastrous fires that would for a time paralyze business and temporarily check the progress of the city; but San Franciscans seem to possess wonderful recuperative powers, and what would depress busi- ness in many cities for a twelvemonth, is but a "ten days' wonder" here. The most sudden and surprising crisis that has ever come upon the city, was the suspension of the Bank of California, in August, 1875. This calamity seemed to strike alarm to every heart. A real panic impended. The excitement it occasioned, together with the tragic events at- tending it, was for a few days the most intense. When, how- ever, an official examination into the affairs of the bank was had, and an authoritative announcement had been made, that resumption would speedily ensue, the faith in the vitality of Californian institutions grew strong, and the public mind was again at ease. CLIMATE— SCHOOLS— CHURCHES, ETC. San Francisco has been denominated the Paris of America. This certainly should not be looked upon by her citizens as a disparagement. It is true that there are many manners and customs obtaining in Paris that are to be condemned; but what city can be named that' surpasses her in the attainments that are the boast of modern civilization? If it be the good qualities of the French capital that San Francisco emulates so as to be yclept " Our Paris," then may she well be proud of the christening. But we fear that the "fastness" of her inhabitants, their apparent disregard of the Sabbath, together with other naughty Parisian ways, is the cause of her having received that ap- pellation. 30 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. San Francisco, as a place of residence, is preferable to most cities. The climate is pleasant at all seasons of the year. There is a bracing atmosphere that is wonderfully invigorating. The windy and foggy weather that prevails at certain seasons for a few weeks, is the most gloomy side of San Francisco cli- mate. During the rainy season, or winter, the climate is de- lightful. The rainfall often occurs during the night, after which not unfrequently follows a bright sunny day. This brings light hearts and buoyant spirits, and the smile of Nature is reciprocated by the people. The bracing air tinges the cheek of the inhabitant with a ruddy glow. " Every one looks healthy in San Francisco/' is a common expression of Eastern visitors. Epidemic diseases seldom prevail, but those afflicted with lung diseases or rheumatism should not tarry long in the city. There is too much moisture in the air for them, and the summer winds are too raw. As with many other things, the climate works by the " rule of contrary." In the summer the people in the country come to the city to get cool, and the city people go to the country to get warm. In the " dry season" the interior of the State is hot and parched, while, at that time, the trade winds have begun to blow on the coast and San Francisco is seen at its- dirtiest and worst. The country people, however, come to San Francisco to cool off and breathe long draughts of iodine- bearing sea air, wrapped in their overcoats the while, and the denizens of the metropolis hie themselves to the country to bask in the sunshine and loll about in their shirt-sleeves at their leisure. San Francisco itself is the windiest place on the coast, but when you get twenty miles away in either direction, north or south, you get out of the winds again and into a milder climate. The high winds, though disagreeable to some, are laden with health for the city. Those who cannot endure them must go south to the balmy atmosphere of Santa Barbara or San Diego, where they will find a climate to suit them and their complaint. Kearny and Montgomery Streets are the fashionable thor- oughfares of the city. On a pleasant Saturday evening it is bewildering to walk along Kearny Street — now the Broadway of San Francisco. It seems as if half the population were out for a promenade. Market Street also, on such occasions, is alive with walking humanity. Some of the shop windows SAN FRANCISCO. 31 on Kearny and Montgomery Streets are resplendent with gaudy displays. Everything that the heart could wish can be had in San Francisco. The costliest toilettes, the richest jewels, every luxury for the table, can be purchased in abundance. The hilly parts of the city are considered the most desirable for residence. The fog is not so dense there, and the drainage is better. On Post, Sutter, Bush, Pine and California Streets are to be seen many elegant dwellings. Those of some of the wealthy citizens are truty palatial. Dwelling-house architecture in San Francisco differs much from that followed in Eastern cities. There seems to be a passion for bay windows — "they are all the rage." The smallest cottage and the grandest mansion have their bay or oriel windows ; besides this, the architecture is more orna- mental. There is a picturesqueness about it that is pleasing, but there is also, unfortunately, a great deal of sameness, as if everything was done by mill-work and by the same pattern. Very little architectural display is made on the dwelling-houses, if we except those of late date erected by stock millionaires. All the embellishment i» put upon the business houses on California, Market, Montgomery and Kearny Streets, but even that is of a sameness. The houses are built lower than is usual in cities, and there are few of the immense seven-story buildings of Eastern towns. Occasional earthquakes, probably, remind the architects not to build too high and to keep their sky parlors pretty near the ground. There are churches of every denomination in San Francisco. The clergy are able and sincere; the communicants are nume- rous and devoted. The public schools are excellent. The grades are well defined and the teachers must be competent educators. The attendance is very large. The records of casualties, street fights, and runaway teams, rogues' dens, etc., that occupy prominent places in some of the daily papers, are enough to deter timid persons from visit- ing the city. We can assure these, however, that a watchful police at all times keep close vigil of the doings of men. The ordinary citizen does not see a street fight once a year. The inventive genius of the reporters who must furnish so much thrilling copy, it must be remembered, has something to do with these blood-curdling scenes, and the Barbary Coast must have its excitement. 32 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. There are many rich men in San Francisco, and few ex- tremely poor. There are many good citizens, and morality has not lost its significance. There are also many vile and criminal creatures. San Francisco is a problem — it has its lights and shades. MIXING STOCKS. 33 II. MINING STOCKS. THE DIFFERENT STOCK BOARDS " BULLS " AND " BEARS " MEETING OF THE BOARDS AND ATTENDING EXCITEMENT " WILD-CATS " CURBSTONE BROKERS WHO SPECULATE IN STOCKS SOME RE- SULTS A DARK PICTURE THE BRIGHTER SIDE MAGNITUDE OF THE BUSINESS — BROKERS' ' ' SHARP PRACTICE " ' ' PUTS " AND " CALLS " MARGINS THE EFFECT OF A LIFE ON CALIFORNIA STREET. THE DIFFERENT STOCK BOARDS. CALIFORNIA STREET, until recently, has been the seat of all stock speculations. Between Sansome and Mont- gomery streets this business centres. The San Francisco Stock and Exchange Board meets there. This, among operators, is familiarly called the "Big" Board. The "Little" Board, or California Stock Exchange, has rooms at the terminus of Leidesdorff street, off California. The "New" Board, re- cently organized under the title of the Pacific Stock Exchange Board, occupies rooms at number 318 Montgomery street, near California. The greater bulk of the stock business, however, is transacted on California street. The great moneyed insti- tutions of San Francisco are located there. From Battery to Kearny street is the centre of the heaviest financial transactions. The Bank of California; the London and San Francisco Bank; the Merchants' Exchange Bank; the Anglo-Californian Bank; "Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express Office and Banking Department; the Merchants' Exchange building; the Safe Deposit Co.'s building and vaults, together with many other important institutions, the conducting of which requires immense capital, are inside these limits. The buildings occu- pied by these various institutions are generally constructed of very substantial materials, the architecture being varied and unique. Three stories and a basement is the usual height. 3 34 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. The Safe Deposit Co/s building is a beautiful structure, and that occupied by the London and San Francisco Bank is imposing and elegant. The basements are mostly occupied by stock and money brokers, and the second and third stories by mining secreta- ries and capitalists. The brokers who are members of the dif- ferent stock boards are mostly to be found in the best offices on California street, keeping the uninitiated and small brokers, as it were, on the suburbs of the business centre. Yet some of the most wealthy and influential operators are to be found in dingy offices on unimportant alley-ways or streets. It is possible that they retreat thither to enjoy solitude; but how- ever this may be, there is always about them a band of hangers- on, who, when opportunity offers, obtrude themselves into their presence. The San Francisco Stock and Exchange Board, by reason of age and prestige, enjoys the reputation of being the most aris- tocratic. Many of the millionaires have seats in this Board. Enrolled among its members may be seen the names of H. Schmieden, Hon. J. P. Jones, J. H. Latham, the McDonalds, Hon. Wm. Sharon, and J. C. Flood and W. S. O'Brien of the Nevada Bank. This Board has now in process of construction a massive building which, when complete, will be occupied by it for the daily stock transactions. This building is on the south side of Pine street, between Montgomery and Sansome. On April 27, 1876, the ceremony of laying the corner-stone was performed. A vast number of curious people assembled to witness the baptismal rites as performed by the worshippers of Mammon. Col. W. H. L. Barnes delivered a brief but appropriate address, after which the metallic case containing numerous memorials was let down into its sarcophagus, and the finely wrought granite block was cemented upon it, to re- main perhaps so long as time endures. A banquet and toasts followed in the evening at the Board Room, and there was much good cheer among the " Bulls 5 ' and " Bears " of Cali- fornia street, and their invited guests. The building when complete will be an elegant and substan- tial monument to the real worth of the mineral deposits that those who erect it have aided so materially in developing. California street will have then lost its greatest attraction, and the quiet of the less exciting pursuits will reign where so long MINING STOCKS. 35 has echoed the cries of those who would woo the fickle god- dess by dealing in stocks. It is exceedingly difficult to obtain a seat in the San Francisco Stock Board. Besides having to submit to the scrutinizing search of the committee that is deputized to examine into his character, the applicant for membership must have a bank account of no mean proportions upon which he can draw should the ballot be in his favor. It is not unusual for persons to pay $30,000 for a seat in this body. The standard by which the applicant is judged is, however, not too high. Ostensibly he must possess honesty and integrity. There must be no stain upon his busi- ness character. But really if he be shrewd enough to keep the general public in ignorance of any sharp practices that he may have engaged in, this faculty will weigh well against any little ' ' shortcomings. " As a rule none but those possessing business integrity are admitted. The California Stock Exchange is quite an old organization, and although it is called the ' ' Little " Board there is neverthe- less much business transacted in its rooms. The rules gov- erning the admission of members are not so strictly enforced as in the other Board, and as a consequence unprincipled men are enrolled as members. But because some tares are mixed in with the wheat, we should not condemn the whole measure. There are men, members of this Board, whose characters are above reproach. The names of some of the wealthiest citizens, also, appear on its roll. The expense of a seat in this Board varies from $800 to $1000. The Pacific Stock Exchange, although having been organ- ized but a little more than a year, has stepped up nearly to the rank of the "Big " Board. The price of membership ranged high from the first. It would require now $10,000 to secure a seat in this body. The business done by this Board compares favorably with that transacted in the older and more aristo- cratic. E. J. Baldwin, John F. Boyd, A. J. Moulder, Wm. M. Lent, James M. McDonald, Geo. S. Dodge and Jules P. Cavallier are among the familiar names that occur on its list of members. During the first thirteen months of its existence the Pacific Stock Exchange Board occupied rooms at the cor- ner of Halleck and Sansome streets. Kecently, however, it has remodeled the building at No. 318 Montgomery street, into a spacious and well-arranged Board-room. The Board 36 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. occupied it for the first time on May 15, 1876. This is the finest room of its character in the city. Its finish in every respect is superb. The walls are frescoed in rich tints, costly chandeliers depend from the ceilings, and the designs upon the glass doors, skylights and walls are appropriate and artis- tic. Paying visitors only are admitted to the main floor where the business is transacted; but no price is charged for attend- ing in the galleries. A ladies' gallery, supplied with comfort- able seats, richly upholstered, occupies the more secluded por- tion of the room. The day of the opening of the Board Eoom was the occasion of a grand celebration by the members of the Board and their friends. The usual inaugural and dedicatorial ceremonies were performed " with appropriate solemnity," and the good feel- ing that exists among the members was expressed by a lavish liberality of good words as well as some handsome and very costly presents. At these exercises there were present in large numbers the elite of the city; and the magnificence of the room, together with the elegance of the toilets, made the scene one of almost dazzling brilliancy. The inaugural ceremonies were followed by a grand supper at the Palace Hotel, whither were invited the more favored of the audience. Some unfriendly feelings have obtained between this and the San Francisco Board since its organization. [Regulations re- stricting, and in some instances forbidding, intercourse be- tween the two, have been enacted. The real cause of this ani- mosity is perhaps clue to jealousy, but time, no doubt, will restore friendly relations. These Boards meet at 11 a.m., and continue in session until 12 o'clock. The afternoon meeting convenes at 3 and closes at 4 o'clock. Those having seats in either of the Boards are denominated "insiders;" and operators who do not enjoy this distinction, are known as " outsiders." •'BULLS" AND "BEARS." Early in the day can be seen groups and knots of "out- siders " assembled on the street in front of, and in the door- way leading to, the chamber of the Board of Brokers. They are a promiscuous assemblage. The jobbing broker is among them. He is a wiry little individual, uses very emphatic lan- guage, is apparently well posted on all stock topics, confides MINING STOCKS. 37 some important information to one, quietly takes another by the sleeve, and stepping aside, tells him (always out of friendly considerations) what to invest in to-day; and, in short, is the oracle of small speculators, who gather about him eager to catch " a point" from his wise remarks. That man who is listening so attentively to the words of the portly gentleman with a silk hat and gold-headed cane, is a Front street commission merchant, who, during the excite- ment of the day before, bought Ophir. He was on his way to his business, when he heard some one remark that stocks were "off/' and that is why he looks so anxious. The speaker is a well-kept gentleman of leisure who "doesn't dabble in stocks himself, but merely occupies the position of looker-on." "It's a pleasant pastime," he says, "to quietly watch the ex- cited throng. One can gain a better knowledge of how the market will be in the future by standing aloof and keeping cool. It is my ojDinion," he continues, as the number of list- eners increase, " that there is not money enough afloat to keep up the present prices. An influential and wealthy friend of mine — a broker, by the way — told me, only yesterday, that his banker could not further accommodate him; that really the present outlook foreboded a great stringency in finances, and he added confidentially that unless there was relief obtained from some unlooked-for source, a panic impended." He con- tinues in this strain, and by the time the Boards meet his remarks have passed from mouth to mouth, growing in inten- sity and becoming more authentic at each repetition. A feel- ing of uncertainty comes over the crowd. Timid holders grow frightened. Those who have their little all invested, scent an immediate decline, and before the calls have regu- larly begun in the Board-rooms there is a weakness percepti- ble all along the line. This man was endeavoring to "Bear" the market. He was a "Bear-capper." In every group on the sidewalk could have been found such a personage. The work of the "Bulls" and "Bears" is performed on the out- side, usually in advance of the morning session of the Board and during the noon recess. When the "Bulls" are in the ascendancy the argument is directly opposite. "It is really wonderful how abundant money is," will be heard whispered around, as though it was a secret that should be kept from the masses. " Everything will be booming in a few days. Choi- 38 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. lar this morning can be bought for sixty. In a week it will go to eighty-five, at least. You can depend on it; I have it from the 'inside.'" After this kind of street-talk, there is lively business in the Boards. Any amount of small orders will be wanted. Five shares of Ophir; ten of Belcher; twenty of Union Consolidated. Clerks, bookkeepers, mechanics, printer- boys, hotel and restaurant waiters, up-town grocers, and every one that can raise from fifty to five hundred dollars ready cash, are sending in their orders. THE MEETING- OF THE BOARDS AND THE ATTENDING EXCITEMENT. As the hour approaches for the meeting of the Boards, mem- bers of those bodies make their appearance on the streets, and quietly pass into the Board-room. Occasionally one of these is corralled by the anxious crowd, and he is plied unmercifully with questions as to how "she's going to open to-day," etc. The crowd now centres about the main entrance, and were it not for the legal authority vested in the policeman who has his station near by, ingress would be almost impossible. The officer, however, succeeds in parting the throng sufficient to admit of a man squeezing through. It is a regularly formed gauntlet. All that is wanting to make it a bloody ordeal to pass between these human walls, is the tomahawk and war- club. The excitement is not lacking. The line extends clear out over the sidewalk, and sometimes into the middle of the street. Within the Board-room, for half an hour before the formal opening, a scene of confusion is enacted. Bids on favorite stocks are made by some, while others are offering their pets. These are generally "feelers," thrown out to ascertain the state of feeling that exists among the members. Soon, how- ever, they get to business in earnest. Great disorder prevails. Each one, in the endeavor to make himself heard, yells at the top of his voice. One man hears an offer made that he would accept if he could only find the bidder. He rushes pell-mell through the excited crowd hunting his man. They clamber over chairs, perch upon the table, elbow each other about, and gesticulate like madmen. Amid this din of voices, the presid- ing officer enters, and approaching his stand, raps loudl} r on the sound-board with his mallet, and calls out in a stern, commanding voice, "Order! Order!" Suddenly all is quiet. MINING STOCKS. 39 Those who but a moment before were the noisiest in the room, move quietly to their seats. Some hesitate as if dissatisfied or loth to quit the floor, then go scowling to their desks. The roll is called. If there be no miscellaneous business before the meeting, the chairman proceeds to call off the regular list of stocks that are daily sold in the Boards. Some of least importance usually come first. A reasonable time is allowed, when, if there be no response, the caller announces the next. In this manner he proceeds undisturbed until some exciting stock is called, when the whole chamber is aroused. They spring from their chairs and rush furiously into the " cockpit 55 or open space in front of the caller's stand. There is no order. All cry out at once. They shout their offers to buy or sell. They jostle and push each other about like frightened animals before a stampede. They rush from one place to another, wildly gesticulating, stamping and chafing as if infuriate. They froth at the mouth from excessive screaming. They yell and scream until their voices grow husky. A midnight sere- nade from the howling coyote is not more confusing. Bedlam let loose would scarce rival the scene. Yet, amid this Babel of voices, the quick ear of the secretary seldom fails to catch the sales that are made. "Order! order, gentlemen!" the caller again cries, " we'll hear the secretary." The secretary reads the record of sales, and if any disputes arise, the caller names the seller and buyer. Should this be unsatisfactory, a vote of the Board gives the final decision. While the excite- ment prevails within the inclosure, in the space without there is a surging throng of eager spectators. The excitement per- vades the whole audience. Various exclamations arise from the crowd. A space in the auditorium is set apart for lady visitors, and they too become enthusiastic or despondent as their favorites rise or fall. They may have large sums in- vested, as many ladies speculate in stocks. In the rooms of the ' ' Little " Board and the Pacific Stock Exchange, spectators are admitted free, while iu the San Fran- cisco Stock and Exchange Board a fee of five dollars monthly is charged. A ticket of admission is furnished on payment of this sum and the holder can go in as a spectator at will. When parties desire a stock " listed" (that is, placed on the daily list of the Board) they must furnish conclusive evidence that the mine which the stock represents has more than a 40 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. "paper" existence. Yet by sharp manipulation, worthless stock sometimes gets on the Boards, and enjoys a good run before its real character is discovered. These are termed "wild cat" stocks, and many fortunes have been swamped in deals of this kind, CURBSTONE BROKERS. Notwithstanding the numerous membership of the three Boards, there is yet much speculation engaged in on the out- side. Small operators who are unable or not willing to pay a commission to the "inside" broker, meet in groups on the sidewalk in front of the entrance to the Board, and by keep- ing runners constantly watching the prices that prevail inside, take these for a guide and buy and sell among themselves. These are the " Curbstone Brokers," and to a pjerson unac- quainted with their habits, their meetings are a curiosity. By their noisy demonstrations, they attract a large crowd of idle and dissolute men who have a distaste for anything like work, but manifest a keen relish for such excitement. Not unfre- quently the street is blockaded so that it is difficult for teams to pass. Pedestrians will save time and many hard knocks by making the circuit of a block so as to avoid elbowing their way through this rnotley throng. All day long their yells and screams are heard for. half a block away. They jibber and cavil and quarrel — now howling like enraged beasts, now giv- ing vent to maniacal screams that would almost shock the strong nerves of the superintendent of an Insane Asylum. So intent are they on their business, that even the noonday sun of midsummer or the drenching rain of a winter's day, does not drive them from their haunt. Like vultures about a car- cass, whether rain or shine, they must eat or they starve. WHO SPECULATE IN STOCKS. If the question were asked, "Who are they that deal in stocks?" it might be answered briefly, men of every avocation. During an unusual excitement, almost everybody that by any means can raise money, invests it in stocks. There is no limit as to profession or trade; and we might add, as to creed or sect. Lawyers, doctors, preachers, bankers, merchants, clerks, bookkeepers-, mechanics, and in fact persons in every occupa- tion are allured into this species of speculation. Women also MINING STOCKS. 41 get the mania. By private entrances they visit their brokers and give orders to buy or sell. So seductive is the influence when the excitement is once upon them, that those of the most fixed resolutions cannot at all times resist a venture. The merchant will reduce his capital stock to raise a sum for invest- ment. The lawyer draws on his client's money; the banker temporarily appropriates his deposits; the bookkeeper tam- pers with his employer's cash -all honest in their motives, assuring themselves that they can replace the funds thus used at short notice, meanwhile they would have turned an " honest penny " for their own account. Many have serious cause to regret a venture in this direction. One young man — a broker's clerk — in a few months ' time used money and securities be- longing to his employer, amounting to more than fifty thou- sand dollars. For this unwarrantable conduct he now lan- guishes in San Quentin. When he is released his best years will have been wasted. A minister had been investing for himself and a brother divine, and so long as the profits were coming in there was harmony and unity between them. A bad investment, however, swamped their mutual capital; this created ill feeling; the breach widened until a bitter animosity existed between them. A scandal was concocted, or a real one developed, by the one who had operated through his brother, and before peace was restored the holy cause in which they labored was dishonored, their own names and characters de- famed, and many innocent persons scandalized. The debris of fortunes thus shattered is seen on every hand. Any day on California street can be seen the physical wrecks of humans who were once men, but meeting with reverses in stock specu- lations took to the cup and are now debased. The Insane Asylum at Stockton has living witnesses to what this wild ex- citement leads. These are the mental wrecks — men who have gone stock mad. On a quiet morning, when nature was all in smiles and the world looked brighter than for many a day be- fore, a sharp report was heard in one of our aristocratic man- sions. Investigation revealed that the proprietor was a corpse. He had sent a leaden messenger of death through his heart. Cause? — "Reverses in business," the evening paper sympa- thetically expressed it. He had lost in slocks. It was a stock suicide. The bay gives up its dead; and, in the ghast 1 / bodies that have sometimes washed ashore, the features of sojie 42 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. well-known business man is recognized. The jury finds a ver- dict " accidental drowning." Later developments prove that he had sought relief from financial ruin by hiding 'neath the billows. Stocks ? Yes, it was stocks. A BRIGHTER SIDE. But a brighter side presents itself. Its effect is such as to almost atone for the misery that stares boldly out from the dark picture. With all the disastrous results attending speculations in mining stocks, there are some redeeming features. With some men the business is nothing more nor less than a lottery, with ten points against, to one in favor of, success. It is gambling. They are sure to lose. If they win, it is only by chance. But many have engaged in it with suc- cessful results at each venture. They grappled with the prob- lem of advance and decline, and they solved it. They were not allured by the excitement, but calculated well before push- ing out from shore. They considered the matter, and gave the same studious thought to the subject that any judicious person will avail himself of, before purchasing a farm, or buy- ing a horse. They counted the cost, and did not go beyond their depth. With such men the buying and selling of stocks is as legitimate as the banking or mercantile pursuit. They are self-possessed, and at all times keep cool. It is the excite- , ment atteD cling the business that causes the disastrous results. If successful in one deal, some men become reckless or lose control of their wits. Those who have heaped up fortunes by stock speculations (and in San Francisco they are many), as a rule have, for the time, made it their regular business. They gave it their entire attention. They comprehended as nearly as could be, the circumstances or laws governing the fluctua- tions of the stock. Ignorant and ill-informed persons always lose unless by sheer luck. True, the freaks of the mining stock market are frequent and abrupt. Theory only, can account for the sudden changes. There is risk attending every investment, but it is thus in any business. The old saying, " nothing risked nothing gained," is applicable to every de- partment of trade or commerce. San Francisco owes her prosperity to the mines of California and Nevada. Her rapid growth in a commercial way, is due real measure, to them. Depopulation would ensue were MINING STOCKS. 43 these mineral resources removed. Mechanical ingenuity has done much to develop them. The powerful rock-drills that have but recently been employed, have penetrated the mount- ains of granite. The monster engines that propel the hoisting machinery, could not be dispensed with. The untiring stroke of the pump piston whose power diverts rivers of water from their natural course, perforins an invaluable work; but the prime motor in the whole complication has been the mining stock market. The beautiful mansions that ornament the residence part of the city are the offspring of stock speculations. The stanch business blocks that greet the eye at every turn, stand as mon- uments to successful ventures in this line. The dense cloud that mantles the manufacturing district of the city would drift far out to sea, and in its stead would droop upon the foundiy walls the gloom of quick decay, were this source of speculation cut off. By it capital is attracted. The wealth of the old world seeks investment here. Capital has made a San Francisco. THE MAGNITUDE OF THE BUSINESS— BROKERS' SHARP PRACTICE. An idea of the magnitude of the stock business is sug- gested by the number of men engaged in the brokerage busi- ness. More than three hundred such offices exist in San Francisco. All these men live either by the legitimate profits of their business or by shaving their credulous customers. They all, more or less, engage in the speculation on their own account. The small swindling schemes that unprincipled brokers engage in are various and perplexing. A person deposits the money and instructs the broker to buy him one hundred shares of stock, at a limited price, say $50 per share. The broker goes out and buys it. During the day, however, the stock advances to $55. Seeing his chance, the broker turns around and sells it, and when his customer calls for his stock, he regrets to inform him that he could not obtain it at the limit he had set. The money is returned to the customer, who no doubt feels crest-fallen at having fixed the limit so low, not entertaining the least suspicion that he has been really swindled out of a profit of $5 per share. By this little sharp deal, the broker has increased his capital $500, without a dol- lar invested. This practice is very common among a certain 44 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. class of brokers, and yet there is no means by which they can be detected. With fluctuating stocks this opportunity is often afforded. Another instance of depravity among this class, is, "put- ting up the price." Your broker is instructed to buy certain stock at a specified limit. In the course of the day this stock may fluctuate a few dollars above and below the limit fixed. The broker buys it, say at the lowest rate during the day. When he turns it over to the customer he charges the highest price it reached. Brokers frequently make from one to five dollars per share in this way, besides their regular commis- sions. u PUTS " AND " CALLS "—MARGINS. Recently the "put" and "call" system of gambling in stocks has been introduced in San Francisco. A "put" privilege is a contract whereby a person pays one dollar per share, for the privilege of all the stock may fall inside of fifteen days, counting from the price agreed upon — which ranges from one to ten per cent, below the market price on the day of purchase. A "call" is just the reverse — the privi- lege of a rise being given. Occasionally when a stock rises or falls very rapidly, the invester in a "put" or "call" may realize considerable profit, on a small investment. But gen- erally the price fixed, above or below the market rate covers the fluctuating of the stock for the fifteen or thirty days, and the investment is lost. Many persons of small capital buy on a " margin." In this way their capital represents a greater number of shares than if they bought it outright. If there is an advance, it is a profitable investment; if a decline, it is often exceedingly dis- astrous. More money is lost by this style of dealing than in any other way. It is simply to advance twent} T -five or fifty per cent, of the cost of the stock; the broker purchases it, and retains the custody of it for security, charging full commis- sions and a certain rate of interest for the amount he carries. If, in the event of a decline, the purchaser can raise sufficient money to pay what is back on it, the stock is then delivered to him and he can hold or sell, at pleasure. But experience si lows that those who buy on a margin seldom have nionoy to redeem with; so when a decline comes, the broker, to save ells the stock, and if there be any money left after MIXING STOCKS. 45 paying himself, turns it over to the purchaser. In the trans- action he has lost perhaps half of his investment, and in some instances, all. THE EFFECTS OF CALIFORNIA STREET LIFE. A writer, speaking of a life in Wall street, New York, says: ' ' Men who live in Wall street live fast, and grow prematurely old. They gamble in stocks all daj\ The}' renew the contest in the hotels at night. Sunday brings some of them no repose. They live high, drink deep, and the excitement in stocks dur- ing the day is exchanged for gaming at night. Bald heads on young men, premature gray hairs, nervous debility, paralysis and untimely decay, which mark so many of the business men of New York with ruined fortunes and characters, show how perilous and unsatisfactory is life in Wall street." This is partly applicable to California street in San Francisco. W'hile some quit the confusion and excitement and retire to the quiet of private life with independent fortunes, many cling to it with the tenacity of despair, appearing in their accustomed places day after day until driven into seclusion by extreme poverty, or checked in their exciting career by death. 46 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. III. THOMAS STARR KING. SKETCH OF HIS LIFE — HIS DEATH HIS GENIUS AND LABOR. SKETCH OF HIS LIFE. THE pulpit, the rostrum, the world of letters, and human- ity at large, lost an able advocate and ornament in the death of Thomas Starr King. He died before the zenith of his powers had been attained. Only the first sparklings of his brilliant talents had been emitted. Thomas Starr King was born in New York, December 16, 1824. His father was an Universalist minister, whose death occurred when Thomas was but a boy. The family was left, to a great degree, dependent upon him. Between the age of twelve and twenty he was employed as clerk or school teacher, during which time he was a hard student, — applying himself principally to Theology. When he was twenty-one years old he preached his first sermon, and at the age of twenty-four was called to the pastoral charge of Hollis Street Unitarian Church, Boston. He found the congregation much divided and dis- satisfied with each other. His first object was to effect a recon- ciliation, and restore harmony among the members. He there- fore applied himself to the task of teaching them that broth- erly love was among the first principles of godliness; that harmony and order were Heaven's first laws. By his own conduct he exemplified his teachings. His efforts were suc- cessful, and the church thereafter was exceedingly prosperous. By his gentle spirit and loving counsel, as well as by his able advocacy of the cause in which he was engaged, he came to bo so loved of his flock that it was the greatest sacrifice of his life to part from them. But his health was failing and he was advised to try the effect of a milder and more equable climate. In 1860 he received a call from the Unitarian Society of San THOMAS STARR KING. 47 Francisco. He bad been with his Boston congregation for twelve years. Meantime he had given evidence of his orator- ical powers, and had also acquired some literary fame. His "While Hills: their Legends, Landscapes, Poetry," a literary production of merit, which was produced during these years, had rendered the White Mountains classic. When he an- nounced before his congregation that he had accepted the call of the San Francisco Society, there was a sadness percejriible on their countenances, that told i)lainly how much he was esteemed by them, and the regret that was felt at the prospect of so early a separation. They remonstrated with him, and were urgent in their solicitations for him to remain their pas- tor. He sailed from Boston in April, and immediately upon his arrival in San Francisco he identified himself not only with his church, but with California. He introduced himself to the San Francisco public by delivering a series of lectures on the agricultural and mineral resources of the State. He at once commanded the attention and respect of the audience, and before he had done they were held by the speaker as if spellbound. The Society over which he was to preside was impoverished and weak. It was largely in debt, — $20,000 hanging over it. In less than a year after Mr. King's arrival the debt was paid and the church was in every way flourish- ing. Four years later they were worshiping in a new and commodious edifice, that had been built at a cost of $90,000; and in four years he had finished his labors. HIS DEATH. The physical health of Mr. King was not good. An affection of the throat frequently gave him trouble. He was a hard worker and close student, and the laborious attention to what he considered the interests of humanity, tended to undermine and weaken a constitution never the strongest. For some time before his death, he suffered much from this trouble in the throat. He had a strange presentiment that seemed to fore- shadow his death, and although he was no believer in signs or omens, he certainly gave this forewarning some consideration. He had a dream a short time before his final illness, in which he thought he was shaving himself, when by accident the razor slipped and inflicted a serious gash in his throat. This bled profusely; so much so, that a physician was summoned. The 48 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. common remedies were applied to check the flow of blood, but without effect. The physician told him he must die — that it was impossible to stop the bleeding. He could not realize that the wound was so serious, and he thought that he held the lips of the cut firmly together with his hands and urged the physician to remain with him. The dream, no doubt, was caused by the pain in his throat, b>ut yet it was strange that it should end so fatally. The malady seemed to have taken deep roots, and was fast per- forming its direful work. To the last breath he retained per- iect consciousness, and talked as rational and cool concerning his death, as if it were only a pleasure tour that he was to take. Various details of unsettled business were recalled and instructions for settlement given. In the last farewell to his friends and kindred he retained perfect composure. After his business affairs were arranged he was much ex- hausted. He desired to know of his physician how much longer he could survive. When he was told that but half an hour of life remained to him, he simply said, " This is the 4th of March; there will be sad news sent over the wires to-day." While his friends were gathered about him, lamenting even to weeping, he admonished them to withhold their tears and not mourn for him, for he was only entering into the fullness of life. In a clear, distinct voice he repeated the psalm wherein occurs — " The Lord is my Shepherd. I shall not want. " He maketh me to lie down in green pastures. He leadeth me beside the still waters. * * * * "Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me." There was a sublimity in this recitation that was beautiful and inspiring, even though it was the expiring words of a much-loved friend. He turned to a prominent member of his church, who was at his bedside, and exclaimed: " Pay the debt on my church; don't leave it to my successor. Tell them these were my last words." And when he had said good-bye to his little boy, and threw him a last kiss as he retired from the room, he died. THOMAS STARR KING. 49 HIS GENIUS AND LABOR. Aside from the duties of his jorofession, Mr. King was an arduous worker for the good of humanity. His brilliant pow- ers that shone not greater as a speaker than a writer, were devoted to the interest of his fellow-man. When he set foot on California soil and decided to make his home here, he, with- out any hesitation stepped into the front ranks of the leaders and worked for the good of his adopted State. The prospect for future greatness of the State inspired his genius, and on the j)latform or at his desk, he labored for the speedy realiza- tion of this greatness. As an orator, Mr. King took the lead in the State, and there were few his superior on the continent. He at once caught the attention of his audience, and whether he spoke at length or gave but a brief discourse, they followed every word, and were not cognizant of the duration. He warmed the coldest audience into enthusiasm. Some said that his musical voice held his hearers; others his genial manner. Some attributed Ms power to his great earnestness, and there were those who said the subjects of his discourses were so well chosen with reference to the tastes of his audience, that they could not fail to be interested. It matters little how the power is had, he that can, at will, provoke a miscellaneous audience to tears or laughter, is an orator nevertheless. Mr. King was a strong loyalist, and hotly opposed secession in California. The "Pacific Republic," that was much talked of during those turbulent times, met with strong opposition in him. His tastes were purely literary. His education had fitted him for literary pursuits. Having chosen his own studies, with no dictating superior to condemn this or commend that, he fol- lowed the bent of his genius which led him into pastures pro- lific of food for his imagination. His language was refined and his style concise, yet brilliant. His eloquence spoke through his pen as well as from his lips. Had his life been prolonged the natural period, his ability would no doubt have been recognized throughout the whole country. As it was, the localities where his influence was directly put forth, have ob- served his death-bed request: " Keep my memory green." 50 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. IV. THE PALACE HOTEL. ITS INCEPTION AND COMPLETION ITS IMMENSITY— THE ARCHITECTURE A LITTLE WORLD OF ITSELF THE PROPRIETOR, WILLIAM SHARON WARREN LELAND, THE LANDLORD. ITS INCEPTION AND COMPLETION. "TTTILLIAM C. RALSTON was the projector of the Palace V V Hotel, and it was under his personal supervision that it was pushed to completion. The ground upon which the hotel stands was, previous to its erection, mostly owned by Mr. Ralston. There were, however, two or three lots belong- ing to other parties, the largest of which was occupied by the Catholic Orphan Asylum. When the erection of the great hotel was conceived and its projector had determined that it should be built, it became necessary to purchase the lots that notched into the block. This business was entrusted to Maurice Dore, who succeeded with little difficulty in securing* possession. There was, however, an elderly lady of a specu- lative turn, who owned a few front feet, and who stoutly resisted the encroachment for awhile r She was finally per- suaded to retire with $50,000 coin in hand, — perhaps a trifle more than her share was actually worth. Previous to the conception of this grand caravansary, Mr. Ralston had been offered $1,000,000 for his interest in the real estate, by capitalists who designed erecting thereon buildings to be occupied by wholesale dealers. It had cost him only $400,000, and perhaps to any other person than Mr. Ralston the price offered would have been sufficient inducement to part with it. He, however, was not favorable to the project of this part of the city being occupied by the unobtrusive wholesale men, as it would render it too quiet and gloomy, and unfit the locality for active business. So the Palace was conceived, and Hon. William Sharon consulted, who seized the idea as a good one, and immediately agreed to assume half the responsibility. THE PALACE HOTEL. 51 An architect was secured and plans drafted and consulted upon, but inasmuch as neither of the gentlemen interested in it had had any experience in the hotel business, it was deemed necessaiy to obtain the advice and counsel of a person well versed in all the requirements in this line. The architect was sent East to examine the principal and more modern hotels there, — also bearing a letter of introduction to Warren Leland, who was then, in connection with his brother, running the Ocean Hotel at Long Branch. Mr. Leland's suggestions were so favorably received by the proprietors of the projected Pal- ace, that he was invited to come to California and superintend its erection. The invitation was accepted, and Mr. Leland and Mr. Kalston, assisted by the constructive knowledge of the architect, devised the plan that now stands realized in the immense structure. The superintendent of construction — Mr. Henry L. King — was appointed, who at once assumed control of everything pertaining to the workmen and the supply of material. The faithfulness of his supervision finds evidence in the substantial character of the pile and its wonderful completeness. ITS IMMENSITY. The hotel is bounded by New Montgomery, Market, Annie and Jessie streets, and occupies the whole block. The front- age on Market street is two hundred and seventy-five feet, and on New Montgomery (where is also the main entrance), three hundred and fifty feet. It covers an area of more than ninet}' thousand feet, or about two and one-half acres. The aggre- gate length of the corridors is two and one-half miles, the periphery of the outer wall a quarter of a mile, and the prom- enade on the roof one-third of a mile. There were used in its construction thirty-one million bricks, ten million feet of lumber, thirty-two thousand barrels cement, thirty-four thou- sand barrels lime, three thousand five hundred barrels plaster Paris and three thousand three hundred tons of iron. There are more than twenty miles of gas-pipe, six miles of sewer- pipe, eight miles wrought-iron steam-pipe, and twenty-eight miles water-pipe. There are also four hundred and thirty- seven bath-tubs, which is an important consideration. There are eight hundred and fifty rooms, offering first-class accom- modations for twelve hundred persons. The dining-rooms — 52 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. of which there are three — have a seating capacity of twelve hundred. A fair estimate would place the cost of the build- ing, furnished and ready for occupancy, at five million dollars. THE AECHITECTURE. The prevailing architecture might be more properly named " San Franciscan," since that which is most conspicuous is the bow-window, there being no city in the world that gives this style more prominence. The Doric column and low arch predominate in the interior; the column never employed singly; but always in pairs. The edifice is seven stories high — the average altitude of each story being sixteen feet. The Ibow-windows that appear story after story in bewildering suc- cession, render a near view of the imposing structure some- what monotonous. Yet, when the cheer and comfort that they add to the interior chambers is considered, no apology is needed for their apparent obtrusion. Perhaps the most striking peculiarity of the hotel is the grand court near the centre of the building. This space is one hundred and forty-four by eighty-four feet in size, has a smoothly-paved roadway for carriages, a promenade tiled with marble, and a glass roof over all. Balconies extend entirely around it at each story, upon the rails of which are ranged, in harmonious blending, choice tropical plants and shrubs, in- termingled with evergreens. The court is entered through a massive archway lighted by handsome lanterns. This central court — by day as light as the outside world, and by night brilliantly lit up by hundreds of gas-jets — its glass covering affording protection from inclement weather — is a feature of comfort that no other hotel in America offers to its patrons, and is not rivaled in the world. Great caution was exercised in the building of the hotel to see that no imperfect material or weak masonry entered into its construction. It is bound and riveted by a perfect network of iron rods and bars, and is as near earthquake-proof as human skill could devise. A LITTLE WORLD OF ITSELF. With the present knowledge of what a hotel should be, it would seem that the Palace Hotel is complete in every detail. One can enter its doors, dwell therein year after year, and THE PALACE HOTEL. 53 have every want supplied. Everything seems to have been considered. There are amusements, promenades, and every comfort for the mental as well as the physical man. Each department is a model of excellence and elegance. The kitchen, the laundry, the bar-room, the store-room and offices are not lacking in any particular. The furniture is peculiar. It was manufactured in San Fran- cisco, and is made of California woods. The upholstery is rich, yet modest, and the same may be said of the carpets. It receives its water from four artesian wells, sunk on the prem- ses. The protection against fire is perfect. The building is almost fire-proof, yet there are arranged, at proper and conve- nient intervals, hydrants with hose attached, so that should a fire break out there would be little chance of its spreading. Each room also has a thermostatic alarm, indicating at once to the office the beginning of a fire. THE PROPRIETOR— WILLIAM SHARON. Hon. William Sharon, the present proprietor of the Palace Hotel, enjoys the reputation of being one of the shrewdest and safest business men of San Francisco. He was born on the 9th of January, 1821, at Smithfield, Jefferson County, Ohio, a small town in that somewhat roman- tic region near SteubenviDe. He is of a Quaker family, whose progenitors came to America from England in the time of Wil- liam Penn. Mr. Sharon's boyhood was quiet and uneventful. He remained at home and attended the public school, except at short intervals, when he was engaged on his father's farm. Like most boys, when the first symptoms of approaching manhood is felt, Mr. Sharon was seized with the desire to "go sight-seeing about the world," and therefore, at the age of seventeen, purchased an interest in an Ohio River flat-boat and started for New Orleans. He was most unfortunate in this venture. His boat was wrecked, and his partners proved dis- honest — defrauding him of the greater part of his interest. After a brief stay at New Orleans he retraced his steps home- ward, thoroughly disgusted with humanity at large and enter- taining great abhorence for those who had practiced their rascality on him. When at home again his father gave him an interest in the homestead, where he remained for three years, at the expira- 54 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. tion of which time he had attained his majority. He then entered Athens College as a student, remained two years, and again turned his attention to the farm, meanwhile applying himself to the study of law in the office of Edwin M. Stanton, afterwards Secretary of "War. His failing health, however, caused him to seek a change of climate, and he therefore re- paired to St. Louis. He took with him letters of introduc- tion to Hon. Edward Bates of that city, whose acquaintance proved of advantage to him. Here he applied himself to his law studies, and in a short time was duly examined and ad- mitted to practice in the courts of Missouri. His health con- tinued so delicate that he abandoned the law entirely, and in 1844 he formed a partnership with his brother, Dr. John "K. Sharon, and the new firm engaged in mercantile business at Carrolton, Illinois, a small town about fifty miles distant from the State Capital. He continued in this business until the spring of 1849, when, the California gold fever having as- sumed an epidemic form in that section, he, in company with Col. J. D. Fry, came across the plains to California. After stopping a short time in Salt Lake they proceeded to Sacra- mento, where in August of that year Mr. Sharon bought a stock of goods, opened a store and engaged in general trade. By the flood in the Sacramento river the following winter, which proved so disastrous to Sacramento, his stock and store were swept away. He was fortunate enough, however, to have something left, and gathering the remnant of his fortune together he came to San Francisco and engaged in buying and selling real estate. He was in partnership with Dr. Bev- erly Miller for a time. From the time Mr. Sharon settled in San Francisco he worked for the interest of the city. His enterprise manifested itself in various building improvements, and he gave encour- agement and support to many infant industries that were then springing up. He remained in the real estate business until 18G4, at which time his earnings amounted to a sum total of $150,000. In 1804 the Board of Brokers was organized, and Mr. Sharon embarked in stock speculations. In six months from his first " deal " he had lost all his capital. In this impoverished condition he applied to the Bank of California for employ- ment. This institution dispatched him to Virginia City, Ne- THE PALACE HOTEL. 55 vada, to attend to some outstanding business, which he duly- adjusted. He thought Virginia City a good point for an agency of the Bank, or a branch business, and suggested this idea to the managers. The branch was established, and Mr. Sharon placed at its head. He was given full control of its affairs, and conducted the business very successfully. He kept this position for several years, when he retired, and was succeeded by Mr. A. J. Ralston. Mr. Sharon's residence in Virginia City, together with his connection with the Bank, gave him a good opportunity to watch Uie progress of the development of the great Comstock mines. This opportunity did not pass unimproved. He se- cured various interests in the Washoe mining district that gave him such control of the mines that he was denominated the "King of the Comstocks." These interests also yielded immense profits. An example of Mr. Sharon's shrewdness and tact, as well as business ability, is furnished in the history of the building of ' ' Sharon's crooked railroad " from Reno to Virginia city. He comprehended the necessity of such a means of transit, and his foresight warned him of the profits that would accrue to the owners of the road. He secured a subsidy of $500,000, which he expended to the best advantage on the road, then mortgaged the incomplete work for money to finish it, and pushed it to completion without having invested a dollar of his own in the enterprise. His profits from this road have been enormous, being estimated by persons who profess to know at $12,000 per day. As a stock operator, Mr. Sharon has been very successful. This is due to his shrewd business tact and management. He is quick to see and does not hesitate to act. Mr. Sharon's political opinions are in harmony with the Re- publican party. He is no politician, although in 1872 he con- tested with John P. Jones for the United States Senatorship from Nevada. He withdrew, however, in favor of Mr. Joues on condition that he should be the nominee of his party for the Senate in 1874. These conditions were carried out, and Mr. Sharon was elected to succeed Senator Stewart. In 1852 Mr. Sharon was married to Miss Malloy, a native of Canada, and daughter of Captain Malloy, of the Canadian Mercantile Marine. Mrs. Sharon was a lady of great refine- 56 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. ment and culture. She died in May, 1875. They had five children, three of whom are living. The marriage of their daughter, which took place a few months prior to the death of Mrs. Sharon, was the most brilliant social event that has been recorded in San Francisco. Personally, Mr. Sharon is medium in stature, and of slight figure. He dresses in plain black, and makes no display of jewels. He is modest, though outspoken. He bears an honorable reputation on California street 3 and his business ability is recognized by all. WAKREN LELAND, THE LANDLORD. The father of Warren Leland was the proprietor of a ' c ^ray- side inn" — The Green Mountain Coffee House — located at Land Grove, Vermont, a stage station on the main thorough- fare traversing that part of the state. The present host of the Palace Hotel was born in this house. When fifteen years of age, he went to New York to assist his brother in the manage- ment of the Clinton Hotel. A few years completed his sojourn there, when he came to California and engaged in the news- paper business, conducting the Pacific Neius. He was emi- nently successful in this venture, and in less than one year disposed of his property, returned to New York and purchased the Clinton Hotel. This he conducted successfully until 1852, when in conjunction with his brothers, he started the Metro- politan Hotel, which proved to be a popular resort, especially for old Californians. He continued in charge of this for twenty years, and then turned his footsteps in the direction of Sara- toga, the most fashionable eastern summer resort. He and his brother purchased an interest in the Union Hotel at that place, and were exceedingly successful until forced to retire by the speculative disposition of a New York combination. With wisdom akin to prescience they looked about them, and in the near future beheld Long Branch the great resort of the pleas- ure loving populace of the continent. With New York on the one side and Philadelphia on the other, convenient of access and great natural advantages, they believed this point the most favorable locality for starting a hotel. They therefore secured the Ocean Hotel at Long Branch, and not only the Lelands prospered, but Long Branch itself enjoyed renewed life. President Grant purchased a cottage there, and this alone was THE PALACE HOTEL. 57 sufficient for a great influx of recreators. Charles Leland — Warren's brother — when the President went into summer quarters there, very appropriately called it, "The Summer Capital," which significant title it still retains. It was at the Ocean House, Long Branch, where the representative of Mr. Ralston intercepted Mr. Leland, and since that time he has been a resident of San Francisco. The whole of the Leland family seem to be specially quali- fied for, and attracted to, the position of landlord. Of Mr. Leland's near relatives, there are six occupying the j^osition of proprietor and landlord of leading hotels. The Leland's Sfcur- tevant House, New York; the Delavan House at Albany; the aristocratic Clarendon, Saratoga; the Leland Hotel in Spring- field, Illinois; the Eutaw House at Baltimore, and the Ocean House, Long Branch. The peculiar qualities essential to this position are developed in the Lelands : patience and forbear- ance, a genial and jovial disposition, making a stranger feel at home when in their presence; manliness, with cultivated intellects. Besides these, they possess the requisite executive ability, and are always able to judge whether a thing is done well or ill. £8 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. V. FOBEIGNERS IN SAN FRANCISCO. -COSMOPOLITAN CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS — FAVORITE PURSUITS — INFLUENCE OF THE FOREIGN ELEMENT. COSMOPOLITAN CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION. ONE of the chief peculiarities of San Francisco is the cos- mopolitan character of her population. There is no nation of any importance but has its representatives here. Many obscure and almost extinct races are represented. Re- mote islands and isolated territories, or districts, have lost some of their inhabitants by the attractions in San Francisco. The Russian, Austrian, Arabian and Swede, as well as the Frenchman, Italian, German and Spaniard, when they arrive fresh from their native lands, find on her streets or in the business-houses those who speak their mother tongue. Be- cause some have drifted here and taken up their abode, others have followed after, until the foreigner, of whatever nation- ality, feels not that isolation that is so often the lot of those who quit their fatherland for foreign shores. The existence of this foreign element in San Francisco has greatly contributed to her progress. The pluck and courage that prompted their migration has manifested itself in the en- terprising efforts put forth in the various avocations they have chosen to follow. Few drones are among them. Perseverance and energy are attended with thrift, and possessing these qual- ities the foreign population of San Francisco is a thriving class. The German element, perhaps, predominates. The English, French and Italian inhabitants are numerous. The native Cal- ifornians (though not, properly speaking, foreigners) are well represented in the city. These latter, however, as a rule, be- take themselves to the country, and find more pleasure in their quiet and somewhat romantic pastoral life than mingling in the bustle and tumult of the city. FOREIGNERS IN SAN FRANCISCO. 59 FAVORITE PURSUITS. The sturdy German quickly becomes sufficiently American- ized to see the advantages to be had in any avocation, and whether in accordance with his favor or not, if the opportunity offers, steps in and takes the reins. He left the home and friends in " Faderland" to gain a fortune in the new parts of the New World, and though he shows much sagacity in choos- ing his pursuit, he does not hesitate to engage in any business where the profits add sufficient to his capital. Yet he does not forego the Bier Halle; the fragrant fumes from his favorite weed tempts him to traffic in that article. He presides at the market- stall and is found behind the counter at the baker's. He is our best mechanic, and is therefore to be found at the work- bench and in the machine-shop. A brewery would be incom- plete without its German proprietor, and the beer garden with- out its German patrons. He excels in music and is a scientific student as well as tutor. His presence in San Francisco and in America is indispensable. Johnny Bull, wherever we find him, indulges the hope that he will at no remote time have the controlling interest in all the good things that abound. We therefore find him engaged in every branch of business. In America he does not take to the professions as readily as to the trades. This, however, is a fact with all classes of foreigners. He is our banker, mer- chant, mine-owner, capitalist and mechanic. He is engaged in the most menial pursuits. He is generally industrious and makes a good living. He lives well, is fond of healthful sport, and grows portly because he enjoys life and drinks London porter. In America he sticks to the old English habit of thoroughness — a habit by no means condemnable. He is very sanguine and self-assured, sometimes officious. Even though his qualities were such as to cause us to feel he had better have remained a subject of the Queen, the near relationship ex- isting between us would influence us to give him countenance. The French and Italian citizens pursue their favorite avoca- tions, the one with that dash and enthusiasm so suggestive of the land whence they came — the other with that easy and non- chalant air that the sunny clime which once they called their home begets and nourishes. •The greater number of the laboring class are foreigners. Den- 60 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. mark and Sweden furnish many of these. Ireland and Scot- land have sent their sturdy sons. THE INFLUENCE OF THE FOEEIGN ELEMENT. The pilgrims that first set foot on New England soil brought with them no resources but their own courageous hearts, in- domitable wills and brawny hands. They had discourage- ments, disappointments and reverses — yet they persevered, overcame, and prospered. They were foreigners. That same spirit of enterprise, and the energetic labor that they dis- played and performed, has ever been a characteristic of the majority of the foreign population of America. When the immigration to California began, none but the most cou- rageous and daring of Americans would venture on the uncer- tain journey. This was also true of the foreigners who un- dertook to sail two oceans that they might share the benefits of El Dorado. It is therefore a gratifying fact that the foreigners of San Francisco as a class are just such citizens as she has needed — full of enterprise, industrious, and intelligent. The influence they have exercised over the prosperity of the city has been for good. Their industrious habits have been emulated by her own people. Yankee ingenuity and push, directing the untiring effort of the foreigner as he put his strong shoulder to the wheel of progress, has lifted California out of a semi- obscurity and placed her in the first rank of States, and has built up out of the little Yerba Buena of twenty-five years ago a city whose commercial standing transcends many that have double the population. The effect on society has perhaps been detrimental. Mor- ality has been at a discount. Social vices have apparently been nourished. The commingling of the different nationali- ties seems to have bred dissolute habits. With many for- eigners the Sabbath is not respected, but this is also true of our native population. Where this is wholly disregarded, as it has been by many in San Francisco, immorality is certain to take root. Experience teaches this. There must be some definite restriction on the wayward. The law cannot set a boundary, although society can. So when society is corrupt, then follows these evil results. This evil is not charged en- tirely to the foreign population; it has been forwarded as well by the "free born American citizen." FOREIGNERS IN" SAN FRANCISCO. Gl The public schools of San Francisco owe much of their ex- cellence to the foreign element. Different nations have differ- ent ideas as to the manner of educating their subjects. Yet all highly civilized nations are greatly advanced in education. With representatives from these different countries taking a lively interest in the public schools, presenting the ideas of education that exist in their respective countries, there has been resolved from out these diverse opinions a system for instruction that is hard to excel. The customs and habits growing out of American civiliza- tion have tended to deteriorate the physical man. The strong and physically developed foreigner coming among us operates as a check upon this disastrous tendency. The manly sports and exercises that they have introduced have already proven a boon to many, and ere long, effeminacy among the male Americans will be regarded as womanliness. Let us all say welcome to intelligent foreigners. 62 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. VI. RESTAURANT LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO. THE ABUNDANCE OF EATING-HOUSES WHO PATRONIZE RESTAURANTS MAISON DOREE CAMPl's UNITED STATES RESTAURANT OTHER EATING PLACES, AND WHO PATRONIZE THEM. THE ABUNDANCE OF EATING-HOUSES. THE numerous eating-houses that abound and seem to thrive in San Francisco, suggest the idea that there must be many persons who board exclusively at restaurants. The custom of restaurant living that obtained in early times, when there were no homes in San Francisco, and all the population were full grown men, has not yet been abandoned. " "Winn's Fountain Head" and " Winn's Branch," that were then so famous, it is true, have passed away, but others even more pretentious have risen in their stead, to find as liberal a patronage among the citizens as was bestowed upon their predecessors by the rest- less gold-hunters of yore. It is an acknowledged fact that no city offers more induce- ments to the saloon business than San Francisco. The restau- rateur has not less encouragement. There are chop-houses, coffee-houses, oyster "grottoes," lunch-rooms and restaurants in bewildering abundance in every street, lane or alley where are located a respectable number of business houses. Through- out the resident part of the city they are met at frequent inter- vals. The French, the German, the Italian, the Spanish, the China, and the American nationalities, all have their respective eating-houses or restaurants. In respectability and quality of the cuisine they vary very much as to their locality. WHO PATRONIZE RESTAURANTS. Evei\vbody. There is scarce a person in the city but that takes an occasional " meal" at a restaurant. Those who have RESTAURANT LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO. G3 all the home-comforts in their residences, with well-stocked larders and unexceptionable culinary arrangements, ofttimes go out to the Maison Doree to dine. The female portion of the household do this for a change ; the males, for a convenience. The gentleman repairs to his office in the morning and does not return home until the business hours have passed. He gets his lunch at a restaurant. He makes it a rule to dine at home; but not unfrequently he ignores this rule and with a message dispatched to his family that "press of business pre- vents him from going home to dinner," he invites, or is invited by, a friend, to dine at the "Poodle Dog," or some other fash- ionable restaurant. Clerks, bookkeepers, printer-boys, and young men engaged in all the various departments of business; young mechanics and laborers, and many of the working females, occupy hired furnished apartments and board at restaurants. The restaurant fosters the lodging-house, and the lodging- house in turn furnishes the restaurants many patrons. It is for the restaurant-livers that the sign that occurs on so many door-posts, " Furnished Eooms to Rent," is displayed. Small families often secure furnished ajDartments, convenient to an eating-house, so as to be rid of the kitchen cares. Ele- gant mansions, whose occupants the stranger would naturally conclude were wealthy persons, are let to numerous tenants of the " shabby genteel " class, who receive their distinguished guests into "my parlor," and recline day after day upon "my silken cushions," and whose worldly effects comprise nothing but the clothes they have on their backs. The cheap restau- rant feeds them. By this means they delude many of their associates as to their circumstances. "MAISON DOREE." This is perhaps the most fashionable restaurant in San Fran- cisco. It is at No. 217 Kearny Street — the centre of the most frequented thoroughfares. The up-town belles, when out on a shopping tour, stop at the Maison Doree for a lunch or to dine. Stock actors of local celebrity, who get good weekly salaries, are frequent callers there. High-toned young gentlemen who sport delicate canes, glossy hats, spotless kids and unruffled linen, patronize the Maison Doree while the sun shines. After- theatre-suppers are indulged in there by the more favored of 64 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. the beau monde. Distinguished traveling visitors are enter- tained there by their friends. It is the Delmonico of San Francisco. The man of moderate means, who practices econ- omy, does not feast at the Maison Doree. CAMPI'S. For the last few years Campi's Italian restaurant has enjoyed high repute among those of epicurean tastes, on account of its excellent cuisine. Notwithstanding its unpleasant proximity to the odorous fish and fowl markets, it is very liberally pat- ronized. The proprietors are Italians, and also all the waiters and other employees. It is the Italian cookeiy that attracts its customers It is in a convenient locality for many of the business men, .and is therefore patronized largely by them. Meals are served a la carte, or by the regular Italian dinner course. From 1 to 2 o'clock p. m. is the common lunch hour, and at that time it is almost impossible to obtain a seat at Campi's. The waiters are very attentive, and as a class are more intelligent than are found in the ordinary American restaurant. The national Italian dish — macaroni — occupies a prominent place on the bill of fare at Campi's, and does not lack popu- larity among their American patrons. They are also very pro- fuse with oils, for salad and sauces, and in the preparation of- dishes for the Italian palate they are very important ingredi- ents. Fish is much esteemed by them as an article of diet. The charges at Campi's are a little higher than the popular restaurant prices. THE UNITED STATES RESTAURANT. Perhaps the most popular, and the one that is most patron- ized by all classes — rich as well as poor — is the United States restaurant, at the corner of Clay and Montgomery streets. As its name suggests, it is an American establishment. The prices charged at this restaurant are presumably as low as good wholesome food can be furnished. One dish for fif- teen cents, or three for twenty-five cents. Of course when extras arc desired a price in proportion to the rariness of the dish is had; for ordinary food, however, the above popular prices arc maintained. It would be a matter of wonder and surprise to any one un- RESTAURANT LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO. 6£ acquainted with the eating habits of San Franciscans, to spend a day inside this restaurant and observe the great number of persons that it feeds. A fair estimate of the number of meals served per diem at this one eating house would place the daily average at three thousand. On extra occasions the number is swelled to thirty-five hundred. The average daily receipts are $600, which would make the average price per meal twenty cents. The tables are arranged in rows across the large dining room, and ordinarily four persons are seated at each. The expense of conducting an establishment w T here so many are fed, is of course large. But when the business is conducted properly, it is very remunerative. One reason for the exist- ence of so many eating-houses is the profit realized from the business. OTHER EATING-PLACES, AND WHO PATRONIZE THEM. In strolling through the streets such signs as follow are frequently met: — "Ladies' dining parlor, up stairs." "Re- freshments at all hours." " Private rooms for suppers — open all night." "Chop house — eastern oysters in every style." Over the top of the screen that shuts off a public view, can be seen brilliant chandeliers, and the pleasant clicking of the plates and glasses make the hungry looker-in exceedingly anxious to push back the silent swinging door and enter. AVben within, the flashy colored drapery that hangs in graceful folds, conceals from view those who may be feasting in the cozy alcoves or stalls at the side of the main room. A con- spicuous card, tells the visitor that refreshments will be served in a private room if desired, and also directs him to the screened stairway. Young men and young women often meet clandestinely at such places, and the anxious parent will never be apprised of it. The object of the proprietor is to preserve secrecy, and therefore persons may come and go at pleasure, and have no fear of publicity. If exposure should be made, the excuse that is offered is plausible — "they were only in- dulging in a plate of oysters/' which certainly would be ac- ceptable to any one. The "Poodle Dog" on the corner of Dupont and Bush streets, and "Marchand's," opposite, are famous resorts for the "gloved and glossy young men about town." At these 5 66 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. resorts there is no question as to the excellence of the cuisine. The pastry is the most delicate, and the wines the finest flavored. The tables are artistically ornamented, and the cutlery and ware have the "real" ring. The private rooms are gorgeously furnished, and the arrangements for the com- fort and luxury of the guest is complete. These places are frequented by persons, both male and female, of questionable respectability. The more favored female denizens of Dupont street are wined and dined there by their "fellows." Upper- ten-dom calls occasionally for a midnight banquet. If a reg- istry were kept of all the after-dark patrons, giving also their companions, the publicity of it would be a startling disclosure to the social world. Chop-houses, where the edibles are served on a high counter, the hungry wretch who aspires to reach them mounted on a tall three-legged stool, and where coffee and doughnuts are abundantly dispensed, are numerous. Significant titles, such as the "Miners' Bestaurant," "What Cheer House," are prevalent; and down on the water front, "The Sailor's De- light" and "Fair Wind," confront the sea-faring man, so that even on shore poor "Jack " is constantly reminded of his life on the wave by the nautical terms embodied in the signs on the saloons and eating-houses. The great tendency of San Franciscans to dispense with the family board and adopt the restaurant or boarding-house style of living, perhaps furnishes a clue to the cause of the little love and reverence the youth of the city entertain for their homes. Indeed, it would seem that restaurant living is entirely opposed to domesticity. It interrupts the private social intercourse and family meetings of members of the same household, and eventually weans them from home; thus tending to destroy the very traits and principles that our republic would have engendered. THE CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS. 67 VII. THE CLIJTF HOUSE AND SEAL BOCKS. THE VIEW — DRIVES TO AND FROM THE CLIFF CLIFF-HOUSE CAPT. FOSTER. THE VIEW. STANDING- upon the deck of a vessel as it glides out of the Bay through the extreme portal of the Golden Gate, and looking southward, a line^of rugged cliffs that beetle to the sea first meets the gaze. Nestled down in a notch cut in the jutting rock, a broad low house, surmounted* b}^ a flag- staff, from which flaunts the brilliant stars and stripes, is de- scried. The stranger would, no doubt, at first, suppose this to be a fort with frowning visage jealously guarding the en- trance to the Golden Gate. But it is nothing more nor less than the famous seaside resort — the Cliff House. San Franciscans are pardonably vain over the many grand, romantic and beautiful natural scenes that are provided to de- light their gaze, and of these there is none that calls forth more universal admiration than that afforded from the bal- cony of the Cliff House. To the westward lies the broad Pacific Ocean, with nothing to break the boundless view of its generally peaceful surface, save the horizon. The immensity of the ocean, its mysterious depths, its restless life, together with the illimitable expanse of the overarching heavens — at night studded with flashing stars, and at day brilliant with the splendor of the sun — fur- nish a rich feast for the thoughtful, or are fertile of grandeur and magnificence to the superficial observer. The charm of enchantment is in the scene. The prospect widens with the expansion of the imagination, until in the far -beyond the Oriental splendors of the Celestial kingdom loom up to view, revealing a land of beauty thronged with millions of queer and strangely civilized humans. The picturesqueness of the scene in the immediate fore- 68 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. ground is not lost sight of. But a few hundred yards in front are seen the Seal Bocks, protruding in abrupt outlines from the waves, and upon which are observed hundreds of sea lions, varying in size from the baby but a day old, to the gray old patriarch, whose weight would turn the scales at three thou- sand pounds. They hobble over the jagged rocks, sprawl at full length in the sun, leap from point to point, plunge into the foaming waters, make graceful detours through the cir- cling eddies, ride upon the rolling billows, and return again to join their comrades on the rocks. A weird half howl, half bark goes up from these inhabitants of both land and deep, ceaseless as the roar of ocean. Myriads of wild sea-fowl that rest unmolested on the rocks add their mournful screams or guttural cacklings to the discordant cadence. Animate and inanimate Nature is here seen in strange and wild association. DBIVES TO AND FBOM THE CLIFF. Not the least delightful feature of a visit to the "Cliff" is the ride over the beautiful roads leading to it. Leaving Geary street, the drive leads between a cluster of cemeteries — the Catholic, Odd Fellows and Masonic on the left, and the Laurel Hill or Protestant on the right. Towering in the midst ia Lone Mountain, whose peak is surmounted by an immense cross visible for miles around. From this point a smooth macadamized road extends four miles to the "Cliff." Half way to the right is seen the channel or arm of the sea that leads to the harbor, and at its narrowest part stands out Fort Point on the one side, and Lime Point opposite — fortifications commanding the entrance to the Bay. After ascending a slight grade of half a mile the gleam of ocean breaks upon the view and is constant!}' seen until the Cliff House is reached. It is a most exhilarating drive, and the fresh ocean breeze, so bracing and pure, contributes to the ex- quisite enjoyment. Another fine drive to the " Cliff" is had by following any of the four streets diverging from Market street beyond Sixth, and entering the Golden Gate Park, from which a delightful view is had of Point Bonita, the channel of the Bay, and the ocean. Beyond looms up old Tamalpais, whose fcopmosl peak i i often hid by gauzy clouds, and at its base the even- verdant THE CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS. 69 coast-range bills spread out. A superbly constructed road leads on to the beach half a mile from the Cliff, which dis- tance affords the finest view of the Cliff House and Seal Rocks. After a lunch or breakfast such as Capt. Foster will serve, the visitor is in just the mood to return by a drive down the beach. Turning off at the creek three miles below, and taking the " Ocean House " road to the city, where it winds down from the summit of the Mission hills, the views on either side are charming. The Old Mission with its time and weather-worn adobe church, the ancient graveyard, and the crumbling adobe houses — the last relics of the primitive San Francisco — are passed, Market street entered and the heart of the city soon reached. Another and very popular way of going to the " Cliff/' is by street cars to Lone Mountain, and thence by the omnibus line — which runs every few minutes — over a magnilicent macadam road. AT THE CLIFF HOUSE— CAPT. FOSTEK. The Cliff House of itself is something remarkable, though its life and warmth is in its genial proprietor. Standing as it does on a bleak point of rock, isolated from every other habi- tation, and forever facing the terrible ocean, whose winds at times make it tremble; whose leaping waves lash its very foun- dation, and whose fogs roll over and envelop it in a gloom that is heavier than night, it would seem that it had a charmed existence, and we look upon it through a weird atmosphere. It was built and opened in 1863 by Capt. Foster, who was for many years connected with the Ocean Steamship service on this coast. Enjoying as he has the acquaintance of all the best citizens of San Francisco for the past twenty years, Capt. Foster has made his seaside house the attraction for all the first families of the city, as well as for every stranger who visits the coast. Many avail themselves of the Hotel accom- modations, recently added, and remain a few days to enjoy at leisure the magnificent marine views and the invigorating ocean air. While the visitor always carries away with him deep-seated recollection of the exhilarating air and novel Bights to bo met with at the "Cliff," there will linger sentiments of another kind, even less liable to effacement from the memory, visions 70 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. of the palate-tempting and delicious triumphs of Captain Foster's cuisine. A drive to the " Cliff" in the early morning, a hearty wel- come from Captain Foster, and an hour passed over his hos- pitable hoard discussing the choice contents of his larder, and a return to the city through the charming scenery of the Golden Gate Park, tends to place man about as near to elysian bliss as he may hope for in this world. WILLIAM C. BALSTON. 71 YIII. WILLIAM C. BALSTON'. HIS EARLY LIFE — ARRIVAL IN SAN FRANCISCO — CONNECTION WITH THE BANK OF CALIFORNIA HIS DEATH — PUBLIC EXCITEMENT AT HIS DEATH — VALUE TO SAN FRANCISCO. HIS EARLY LIFE— ARRIVAL IN CALIFORNIA. "By their fruits ye shall know them." "TTTHEN William Kalston died, San Francisco lost one of V V her most enterprising citizens. In his early youth he gave no promise of extraordinary achievements. Not until the fullness of manhood was upon him did those qualities, that in later years gave him the rank of a leader, manifest themselves. He was born in Ohio in 1826. His father was a mechanic, and it was his desire that his son should follow in the path the father traveled. Young Ealston, therefore, in his boyhood, applied himself to the work-bench, and became quite skilled in the use of tools. This, however, was not a congenial occu- jmtion. When still a youth, he threw aside his tools, and quit the parental roof. He sought and found employment on a Mis- sissippi steam packet, plying between St. Louis and New Or- leans. He served in the capacity of steamboat clerk for some time, giving satisfaction to his employers. A marked charac- teristic in him, and a trait that is always attended with success, was his close attention to business. He applied himself to the task of mastering his business, and developing it to the highest standard. He strived for proficiency. During a passage down the Mississippi, his business habits and tact attracted the attention of Mr. Cornelius K. Garrison of New York, who, being desirous to secure an efficient man to act as his agent at Panama, solicited his services. Young Ralston at once accepted the position. When he took charge of Mr. Garrison's Panama office, it was at a time when there was hot 72 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. competition between that gentleman and the Nicaragua Transit Company. He displayed so much business ability in conduct- ing the affairs of this office that Mr. Garrison decided that his services would be indispensable in a business that he designed engaging in in San Francisco. They therefore embarked for California, and arrived at San Francisco in 1854. Mr. Ralston was then in the prime of manhood, being twenty-eight years of age. Mr. Garrison associated in business with a Mr. Fretz, taking Mr. Kalston into the firm as junior partner. Under the firm name of Garrison, Fretz & Ralston a bullion and ex- change business was inaugurated, which was conducted suc- cessfully for a time, when Mr. Garrison withdrew from the firm, and the business was then carried on under the style of Ralston & Fretz. Shortly after the commencement of the war between the States, a business arrangement was effected, wherein Ralston and Fretz united with the firm of Donahoe & Kelly, to do a general banking and exchange business, under the firm name of Donahoe, Ralston & Co., in San Francisco, and Eugene Kelly & Co., New York. This enterprise was wonderfully successful. The great rise in gold that occurred succeeding the outbreak of the Rebellion was a fortunate fluctuation for them, and they reaped a most bounteous harvest. The San Francisco firm soon took the lead in the banking and bul- lion business in the State. The immense bullion shipments from the mines of California and Nevada passed through its hands. The prestige achieved by this sudden turn of the wheel of fortune, kindled in the breast of Mr. Kelly, the manager of the New York branch, an aspiration to establish in New York a banking house that would at once take the lead in that line of business. To this Mr. Ralston was opposed. At this point in his life we find those qualities that ever after identified him with California, and more especially San Francisco, coming to the surface. For a business firm whose influence had widened until it was felt throughout the State, and had greatly elevated San Franciscan institutions in the opinion of the business men in Eastern cities and abroad, to at once transfer that influence and its interests to another and foreign field, was not, to a man of his perceptions of right, justice to that people among whom and and by whose patronage it had been so successful. He* WILLIAM C. RALSTON. 73 said, "We have made our money in California; let us continue our business here; and if concentration be deemed advisable, let us discontinue our Eastern connections, and build up on this coast the enterprise that has been suggested." If it had been reputation or honor that prompted the man, it would have been natural that he favor the former project. If finan- cial gain had been the sole motive of action, his keen percep- tions would have told him to encourage it. For either of these considerations policy would have led him to give assent to the transfer of the business to the great metropolis. CONNECTION WITH THE BANK OF CALIFORNIA. The controversy between the members of the firm led to the withdrawal from the business of Donahoe & Kelly, and Mr. Ralston assumed the full control. The business was trans- ferred to the Bank of California, and Mr. Ralston was elected to the management. The history of this institution is familiar to all. From its inception to its highest financial attainments it was identified with the interests of California. It grew in influence until its nourishing power was felt throughout the whole coast. In times of financial embarrassment of any struggling home enterprise it extended a helping hand. It was the foster-father of all the infant industries of the coast. It nourished the manufacturing institutions. It extended aid to the development of the mineral resources of California and Nevada. It encouraged agricultural pursuits by tendering material assistance to the farmers. It was the supreme motor of progression in the city and State. Rich and poor alike, if their undertakings were plausible, were the recipients of its benefits. The farmer, the mechanic, the miner, and the capitalist found in the Bank of California a friend in need. This policy was due to the management of Mr. Ralston. The career of the Bank of California had been one of in- creasing success. There had been times of depression when a financial storm had impended, but this stanch craft had weathered every gale, and still rode triumphantly. But ships sometimes go down, leaving the cause of the wreck enveloped in mystery. There are often found protruding rocks within the smoothest water. "Without a warning to the business world, the Bank of California closed its doors and announced, to the public that it must temporarily suspend business. 74 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. Had the man at the helm steered clear of breakers; had the vessel not foundered on a rock, it is possible that his value to the community would not have been appreciated. But when the great institution that was the heart of the business inter- ests of the country became paralyzed, and its arterial flow had ceased, then the public felt how vast had been its influence, and how strong a support it had been to the industries that have made San Francisco the great city that she now is. The people then realized that William C. Ralston had, in the man- agement of the affairs of the Bank, the interests of the country at heart, and although there were some who spoke with con- demnation of the course that had culminated in so great dis- aster, the general public expressed the deepest sympathy ior the man upon whom the calamity had fallen with greatest weight. HIS DEATH. When this great misfortune came upon the enterprise, the success of which had long been, not only the pride of its man- ager, but also the boast of Californians, he did not shrink from shouldering the burden. His manhood asserted itself, and the same principles and rules of action that had always been his characteristics still actuated him, and he at once bared his arm for the struggle, confident that he could lift the wreck and establish it on the basis of its former eminence. But this was not to be. Two suns had not passed the zenith before he had been removed from the managerial office by the syndicate of the Bank. He sacrificed all his worldly posses- sions to indemnify the patrons of the institution against loss. ICven his personal property was thus disposed of. Were this the saddest part of what we must relate, there would not come up in our bosom those regrets and sorrowful emotions that the recording of this sketch begets. Our sym- pathies would be aroused, but yet there would be a feeling of pleasure commingled, at beholding the man whose spirit mis- fortune had endeavored to break, still buoyant with hope, de- termined to battle with adversity, and rise again. It would seem that this sudden transition from power and affluence to dependence and poverty, was sufficient to fill the cup. This, however, only foreshadowed what was to be. In this brief period he also gave up his life. On the morning after the suspension of the Bank, Mr. Eal- WILLIAM C. RALSTON. 75 ston had visited it to have some conference with the officers. He was not gloomy or disheartened, but expressed himself as ready to start anew in the battle of life; was cheerful, and although it was evident that the action of the Syndicate had wounded his sensitive nature, yet he did not manifest any feel- ing of humiliation. Leaving the Bank he repaired to North Beach — as was his custom — for an ocean bath. While bathing it seems that he was carried out by the current beyond his depth. He was seen by some parties near by, apparently struggling in the water, and they thinking he needed assist- ance proceeded at once to his rescue. But they were too late. Although still breathing when brought ashore, resuscitation was not effected. The climax of combined misfortunes was reached in this tragic ending of a life that had been so fruitful of good results. PUBLIC EXCITEMENT AT HIS DEATH. A few days previous to the suspension of the Bank of Cali- fornia, two influential daily newspapers came out with promi- nent editorials — the tone of which reflected discredit upon the Bank of California — containing allusions derogatory to the character of Mr. Ralston. Articles of similar import were published from day to day, and although they were looked upon by most persons as political tirades, it afterward became evident that they kindled a feeling of distrust in the public mind regarding the condition of the affairs of the Bank. Although there was much* dissatisfaction occasioned by the failure when it was first announced, yet a reaction immediately followed, and the sympathy of the public was with the man whom fate had chosen as the target of her venomed arrows. When the news of his sad death had spread throughout the city, there was a gloom of deepest melancholy upon almost every face. Flags were at half mast. The sable badge of mourning was met at every turn. Meetings, where thousands of his friends gathered to vindi- cate his character and recall his good deeds, were held. The plainest mechanics told how, when they had been in need, he had extended a helping hand. The commonest laborers re- membered now the kind words he had spoken, and encourage- ment and aid they had received from him. Brilliant orators pronounced the highest eulogies on his character. It was like 76 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. each individual person had lost a bosom friend. Speeches condemning the attacks of these papers were uttered loud and earnest, and were applauded by the multitude. An under- sentiment of revenge was manifest, and for a time it was feared that a mob would attack the offices of the papers that had con- demned Mr. Ralston, and make sad havoc of them. Alarmed at the danger that was brewing, the proprietors of these journals armed their employees, called in a posse of the city police, and barricaded doors and windows — determined to resist any attack. But besides a great excitement there was no violent demonstration. VALUE TO SAN FRANCISCO. His value to San Francisco is inestimable. As we have pre- viously said, Mr. Ralston was — through his management of the Bank of California — a friend to every home industry. Besides his influence through the Bank, he personally assisted various leading industrial enterprises. He was largely interested in the Mission Woolen Mills ; the Bay Sugar Refinery 5 the Cor- nell Watch Factory; the California Theatre; the Kimball Manufacturing Co.; and was one of the principal proprietors of the Palace Hotel. His villa residence at Belmont — the most commodious and beautiful residence on the Coast — was built for the purpose of entertaining distinguished visitors when they journeyed to our shores. It was to offer that hos- pitality that the rank of the visitors and the greatness of our city and State demanded. He took it upon himself to enter- tain the guests of the country. In his early career as a banker, he reduced the exorbitant rate of interest on money that was charged by money brokers. In whatever capacity we find him, that unselfish spirit that gave him so warm a place in the hearts of the people, dis- covers itself. His charity was broad, and his liberality ex- tended to all who were in need. Although his ambition was to accumulate money and create capital, he was no hoarder of gold. For the benefits it brought to the community he labored to produce capital. This was the verdict of the masses, and judging by the spirit he manifested and his actions, that verdict is correct. Yet it is hard to judge the thoughts of men, and no one can tell the motives that prompt their actions. WILLIAM C. RALSTON. 77 The light of events succeeding the suspension of the Bank and his death reveals some things that, remaining unexplained as they do, cannot but reflect some discredit upon the charac- ter of the man whose name it were hoped would forever remain untarnished by even a shadow of dishonor. But since the dark valley of death intervenes to close our intercourse with him and shade him from our vision forever, let the mantle of obscurity be dropped over his faults and misdeeds, and let his benefactions only be remembered. Socially he was a genial companion. Bather retiring in disposition, yet at times vivacious and brilliant. His business was his study, and close application to this disqualified him from shining in society. His funeral was the most imposing ever witnessed in San Francisco. He was buried from Calvary Church, and so great was the concourse of people that had gathered that the streets were lined in every direction. A large procession followed the remains to Lone Mountain Cemetery, where, amid the throng of solemn faces, the sobbing and weeping of friends and rela- tives, the dead body of William C. Balston was lowered into its final resting-place. By his fruits let us remember him. 78 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. IX. BAJRBARY COAST. THE CURSE-MAKK ON SAN FRANCISCO* S BROW — PROSTITUTION — WA- VERLY PLACE — GILDED PALACES HOW THE RANKS ARE RE- CRUITED — CONTRASTLNG PICTURES. THE CURSE-MARK ON SAN FRANCISCO'S BROW. «T)ABBAKY COAST" proper, is in the northerly part of I ) the city, comprising both sides of Broadway and Pa- cific streets, and the cross streets between them, from Stockton street to the water front. Nearly the whole length of Dupont street, running south from Broadway, and many of its intersect- ing by-ways, might be called the highlands to this region, as most of the dwellers therein are perhaps not a whit less immoral and vicious; and only for the distinction that rich apparel and some of the refining accomplishments bestow, would be classed in the same social grade. Like the malaria arising from a stag- nant swamp and poisoning the air for miles around, does this stagnant pool of human immorality and crime spread its con- taminating vapors over the surrounding blocks on either side. Nay, it does not stop here, for even the. remotest parts of the city do not entirely escape its polluting influence. It is true that inside the limits of Barbary Coast, even among its foulest dens, are some who witness from day to day the lowest phases of human depravity and yet remain undefiled. These are not there by choice; but by force of circumstances are compelled to abide in the unhallowed precincts. But the great number of those who dwell there have chosen the locality as the most fitting place wherein to pursue their respective callings. In the early days of San Francisco, Barbary Coast was the place of refuge and security for the hundreds of criminals that infested the city. When they had passed within its boundary, they were strongly fortified against any assault that the officers BARBARY COAST. 7 ( J of the law might lead against them. It was, in those days, an easy matter for a stranger to enter this fortress of vice, but when once behind the walls he was exceedingly fortunate who had the opportunity to depart, taking with him his life. Then villains of every nationality held high carnival there. The jabber of the Orient, the soft-flowing tone of the South Sea Islander, the guttural gabbing of the Dutch, the Gallic accent. the round full tone of the son of Africa, the melodious voice of the Mexicano, and the harsh, sharp utterances of the Yan- kee, all mingled in the boisterous revels. It was a grand theatre of crime. The glittering stiletto, the long blade bowie knife, the bottle containing the deadly drug, and the audacious navy revolver, were much-used implements in the plays that were there enacted. There was no need of mimic dying groans, and crimson water, for the drawing of warm heart-blood and the ringing of real agonizing moans of death only, would be recognized as the true style of enacting tragedy. Were the restraining power of the law and public sentiment removed, Barbary Coast to-day could soon develop the same kind of outlawry that made it notorious in the primitive days. The material is ready at all times, and should the favorable circumstances transpire to kindle it into destructive activity, scenes as startling as those that won for the locality its chris- tening, would be re-enacted. Even in the presence of a strong police force, and in the face of frowning cells and dungeons, it is unsafe to ramble through many of the streets and lanes in this quarter. Almost nightly there are drunken carousals and broils, frequently terminating in dangerous violence; men are often garroted and robbed, and it is not by any means a rare occurrence for foul murder to be committed. " Murder- ers' Corner" and "Deadman's Alley" have been rebaptized with blood over and over again, and yet call for other sacrifices. Barbary Coast is the haunt of the low and vile of every kind. The petty thief, the house burglar, the tramp, the whoremonger, lewd women, cut-throats and murderers, all are found there. Dance-houses and concert saloons, where blear- eyed men and faded women drink vile liquor, smoke offen- sive tobacco, engage in vulgar conduct, sing obscene songs, and say and do everything to heap upon themselves more deg- radation, unrest and misery, are numerous. Low gambling $0 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. houses thronged with riot-loving rowdies in all stages of in- toxication are there. Opium dens, where heathen Chinese and God-forsaken women and men are sprawled in miscellaneous confusion, disgustingly drowsy, or completely overcome by inhaling the vapors of the naseous narcotic, are there. Licen- tiousness, debauchery, pollution, loathsome disease, insanity from dissipation, misery, poverty, wealth, profanity, blasphe- my and death, are there. And Hell, yawning to receive the putrid mass, is there also. PROSTITUTION. Some one has remarked that in Eastern cities the prostitutes tried to imitate in manner and dress the fashionable respect- able ladies, but in San Francisco the rule was reversed — the latter copying after the former. Admitting this, it is not strange that there is much licentiousness here. But San Fran- cisco has not yet overcome the immoral habits she contracted in the days when the inhabitants were nearly all males, and they had nothing to restrain them from engaging in the most vicious practices; when there were few mothers to chide their waywardness and say in winning tones, "My son, go not in the way of evil;" and fewer virtuous sisters to welcome broth- ers home, and by their loving kindness and noble lives, to teach them to cease from sinning. There was no standard of morality, no public sentiment to influence men to lead pure lives. Every one was free to do whatsoever he chose, if he did not interfere with anybody else, and his conduct was not questioned. So it was that in the absence of a restraining sentiment they gave full sway to their passions and desires. It is possible that this early spirit of libertinism has only been curbed by degrees, and the excessive immorality that now pre- vails, is the remaining effects of the influence that was once so powerful. If this be true (and we believe that it is) but a few years will elapse before the last stain shall have been re- moved, and perhaps the city will be all the more pure for hav- ing had her skirts so long defiled. Prostitution in San Francisco knows no such small bounds as Barbary Coast. There, because of the character of the place and the people who inhabit that quarter, it only puts on a bolder front, making itself more conspicuous. But its soiled wings, with baleful forebodings to the youthful sons and daugh- BAKBARY COAST. 81 ters of this proud city, hover over every neighborhood and street. It is the one social blight. It is the secret of many family woes and the chief promoter of social discord. Licen- tiousness is undermining the foundations that society stands upon. What direful events may we not look for if our sons are dissolute and our daughters know not virtue ! There are few lodging-houses in the city but that are more or less used as houses of assignation. Many of these harbor professional prostitutes, and the name "lodging-house," as applied to them, is only a polite appellation for houses of ill- fame. In many of the "respectable" hotels no questions are asked as to the relation of suspicious parties who seek to pat- ronize them; and of their illicit conduct, no tales are told. Even the real first-class hotels are sometimes infested with vile women and viler men, but who assume such a respectable de- meanor and so disguise their character by rich apparel as to deceive the not too-observing landlord. Many private dwelling- houses throughout the city where the sign "Furnished Booms to Let" is displayed, give admittance to the most questionable characters. This sign is frequently employed to attract young men in search of rooms, and when once they have entered they discover that they have been lured into the presence of harlots. In the most respectable neighborhoods such occupants are found. A general laxity of morals is manifest, and every art and device is employed to tempt young men and young women to depart from the path of virtue; and they, in the buoyancy of youthful health and spirits that the voluptuous climate begets, are only too willing to be led astray. We do not wish to say, or even imply, that San Francisco is the wickedest and most immoral city in the world; that her men are all libertines and her women all fallen; that she has no noble sons and pure daughters. This is only a single chap- ter on her wickedest ways — the deepest shade among many brilliant lights. But we would say to the parents of San Fran- cisco to look closer to their daughters, for they know not the many dangers to which they are exposed — know their associ- ates, guard their virtue — and to mildly counsel their sons, for when upon the streets of this gay city they are wandering amid many temptations. 82 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. WAVERLY PLACE. Waverly Place, or "Pike" street, is notorious for the bold- ness of its vice. It is a short lane or alley between Dupont and Stockton streets, on the outskirts of "Barbary Coast." The buildings are mostly low frame structures, rickety and dilapi- dated — a fit abode for the depraved creatures that find shelter within them. At any hour of the day or night, sickly, vice- worn women, abundantly painted and powdered and gaudily attired in the vain attempt to restore their lost charms, may be seen upon the thresholds or lounging by the open windows, half-dead from their excesses, yet perseveringly exerting them- selves to win patronage from the vicious and dissipated men that loiter on the walks or straggle through the street. The heyday of their life of shame has past and they are on the declivity whence the descent is sure and swift. Down Pacific street, and in the narrow alleys and by-ways cutting into it, and also along Broadway for two or three blocks — right in the centre of Barbary Coast — are the still lower dens of infamy. Here the women are shabbily clad, boisterous and almost insane from drink, and the men that are met leer at the passer-by with that idiotic expression be- gotten by long-continued drunkenness and debauchery. The tenements they inhabit are in a tumble-down condition that harmonizes with the occupants. Outside, they are weather- worn and bedaubed with filth, while within there are bare floors, and the furniture is old and scant— -everything indi- cating extreme poverty. A few of the rooms are cosily fur- nished, and comparatively cheerful ; but all the surroundings show that the denizens of the place are in the last stages of human degradation — that the days are past when sinning to them had its pleasures ; that disease, death, and that dreaded mysterious hereafter will follow respectively, and will come quickly. If heaven can condone so great sin as theirs, may it be merci- ful to the fallen women that dwell in the tenements of Barbary Coast, and all their sinning sisters ! for among the thousands of their kind that abide in the cities of the world there are few who were guilty of sin when first they gave up their virtue. BAEBARY COAST. 83 GILDED PALACES. Ou Stockton, Dupont, Market and Third streets — and even fashionable Kearny shares the dishonor — are found numerous higher - class houses of prostitution. These are where the wealthy madams dwell in ease and luxury, surrounded by beautiful and accomplished young ladies, who for money sell flesh, blood and soul, that the mistress of the mansion may not be angered. But there are few real elegant houses of this character in the city. The spirit of extravagance that pervades all classes in San Francisco is particularly manifest among the demi-monde. They are essentially "fast/ 5 and to surpass their virtuous rivals in this regard requires a vast outlay of money for wearing apparel, carriage hire, and the like. This of course so exhausts their income that but few are able to maintain very elegantly furnished houses. But the interior appointments of some of these "abodes of sin" are rich and costly, and many are furnished in a style superior to the private dwellings of most of the wealthy citizens. It is therefore evident that their patrons are wealthy, or have large incomes. If a register was kept of the names of all who visit these places, and published at stated periods, the day of such publication would find many husbands and fathers " absent from the city on business, 5 ' and many young men and bachelors confined to their offices from the excess of work such absence would put upon them. On that day there would be a breeze of indignation among the feminine members of families, and in the feminine ranks of society there would be many epithets and invectives suggestive of brutal conduct uttered by lips curled in scorn. There would be wringing of hands and weeping; and there would be some — but not many — pierced and aching hearts. But most all this consternation among the belles of society would be assumed for effect, for they are often secretly apprised of such conduct of the men, and still smile upon them and give them countenance. If the women of the land would as heartily condemn a fallen brother as they do a fallen sister, and shun the one as the other, then there would be less immorality. We dislike to write it — and it may be offensive to some to see in print only an allusion to the disgraceful practices that men engage in, but that all are aware of — yet it is a fact, deplorable as it ma}' be, that prostitution receives as much encouragement 84 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. and support from men of families as from the unmarried. Es- pecially is this true when applied to the more aristocratic and retired gilded palaces of sin. Detectives and policemen will also tell you that of the many men who secretly keep mis- tresses, there are but few who have not families. And the woman thus related to a man is maintained in greater luxury than the wife of his bosom. She rests recure in her comfort- able surroundings, for she has only to hint at a public expos-' ure to extort anything from her guilty paramour that she may desire. The occupants of the better class houses of ill -fame are generally personally attractive, and possess refined manners. Many of them have excellent educations, and some have even graduated from the best female seminaries. They have all the petty graces that are acquired only in refined society, and were it not for the previous knowledge of the character of the house the visitor would never know but that he was in the private parlor of a wealthy gentleman, and his beautiful and affable companions were the brightest stars in the most respectable society — so chaste are their manners and conversation. Some of them have been, and would gladly quit the life they are forced to lead, only that society has said, Be ye outcasts forever. Thus they must submit to fate, and it is not strange that after a while, when their personal charms fade, they grow hardened in sin, and make themselves repulsive even to those who now gladly seek their society. In their secret hearts they sorrow to the last, and the tenderness that characterizes innocent womanhood would fain manifest itself again; but even this must be disguised by the look of brazen wantonness that the nature of the business that gains them a livelihood necessi- tates. So, "When lovely woman stoops to folly And finds too late that men betray, "What charm can soothe her melancholy, What art can wash her guilt away?" HOW THE RANKS ABE RECRUITED. The lady boarders in the aristocratic houses of prostitution are constantly changing. Three and four months amid luxu- rious surroundings, and then the next downward step. This is the duration of their stay at the finest houses. Their beauty and vivacity has begun to leave them, and they are no longer BAEBAEY COAST. 85 sufficiently attractive to suit the fastidious tastes of the madam; they are no longer profitable to her. Therefore, they must go. Then follows in rapid succession the different stages of de- cline. But when they leave, their places must be filled. This requires the services of the procuress, the runner and agent; and more — this endangers the virtue of beautiful and attract- ive young ladies all over the land. None other than these are wanted for the first-class houses; the lower grade are overrun and turn many applicants away. The agent is a shrewd, gentlemanly fellow, with polished manner, and withal prepossessing. He is a regular " ladies' man." These are numerous or few as the demand calls for. They are ever on the alert, looking closely at every lady they meet. The} r frequent pleasure resorts, public exercises at fe- male seminaries, fashionable churches and hotels; they are aboard steamers and railroad trains, and follow the stream of gay life wherever it flows. When they have discovered a young lady that suits, by strategy or otherwise, they get an introduction, and soon by having made themselves very agreeable and entertaining, are an accepted escort. They attend church and parties together. The trap is now ready to spring, and at a prearranged dinner party or refreshment table, the lady is drugged, her person violated, and when consciousness returns to her, she realizes her disgrace, and is easily led to final ruin. High prices are paid for very beautiful girls, and such are therefore in greater danger. This is only an instance of how the unholy work is done. Various other means are employed. The procuress is gener- ally a motherly old woman, whose silvery locks and matronly appearance would naturally win respect. She has not much difficulty in approaching the young ladies, but it requires tact in her to lure them where she wants them. She has a male accomplice who relieves her of her charge and the dastardly crime is soon perpetrated. The chosen victims are generally the buxom daughters of rural villagers — the belles of the towns — and young ladies who reside in the country, but have visiting acquaintance in the city. The more remote the home of the young lady is from the city, the less fear is had of detection. Cases of seduction are not unfrequent, and these are ofttimes accomplished for 86 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. the purpose of refilling the oft-vacated rooms in the boarding- houses of ill-fame. A few young ladies are ruined by confid- ing too much to villainous lovers, who, only to gratify passion, blight the hopes of their most devoted female friends. These sometimes voluntarily seek to hide their shame in the palaces of sin, but the greater number are victims sought out and en- trapped. CONTRASTING PICTURES. On the corner of California and Stockton streets stands Grace Church; but a block below, at the corner of California and Dupont, is St. Mary's Cathedral. In the one the wealth- iest and most aristocratic Episcopal congregation in the city worships; in the other, the pride of Catholicism in San Fran- cisco praises God for His blessings. Devout Christians as- semble at these churches and engage in the solemn service of the sanctuary. The loveliest of lovely women and noble men thither repair upon the Sabbath day, and unite their voices in praise and thanksgiving for the goodness and mercy of the Lord, that has continually followed them. Within those walls there is evidence that this is a Christian city — a block away the streets are lined with houses of prostitution; and a stone's throw beyond, is Barbary Coast reeking in infamous filth. Nearly half a score of churches point their spires heaven- ward in this immediate vicinity, indicating the upward way that leads to life; two days in every week the bells in those steeples sound the call to assemble and worship, and the wor- shipers who meet in these temples of religion, accept that Bible that pronounces a great woe upon the workers of iniq- uity; that visits vengeance upon crime; that utters a curse upon adultery; that denounces harlotiy as one of the most dangerous evils, and sets up the warning, c< Beware! go not in her way!" Kearny street at night, until the hour of ten is struck, is a brilliant scene of gayety and life. It is thronged with all classes of human beings that furnish the motive power to a city's progression. Male and female, rich and poor, the artist and the unskilled laborer, youth, age and beauty, are mingled, forming a constant, moving stream of life. The shop win- dows are richly decorated, and within flash brilliant lights. Tho scene is interesting, is pleasing, and impresses the ob- BAEBAKY COAST. 87 server with the beauty, grandeur and value of a high civiliza- tion. Dupont street, running parallel to this scene, is likewise in its gayest dress. But how different is the picture! There are upon the street skulking groups of men with muffled faces, who seek its darkest side lest they be recognized by others likewise shunning observation; bold, boisterous fellows, utter- ing oaths and obscene jests; but not a single female form is seen unless it be a flitting figure moving rapidly along and sud- denly disappearing in another street. But peeping through the window-shutters, or standing at the thresholds, door after door, block after block, are women whose calling is branded on their foreheads, may be recognized in the twinkling of their eyes, and is boldly called out to you as you pass along the walk. The doors are left slightly ajar, or the blinds turned, so that he who will may look within. In their rooms is a warm, hazy light, and everything is invitingly arranged. Almost every passer-by is hailed, and invited in. If he declines, he is urged; and if he still refuses, he is entreated and sometimes taken by the hand and playfully forced to enter. These are some of San Francisco's inconsistencies. It is a disgrace to San Fran- cisco, a stain upon her brow; but it is more disgraceful to those property-holders and speculators who permit their tenement houses to be used for such vile purposes. 88 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. X. TEE SAFE DEPOSIT COMPANY OF SAN FRANCISCO. THE BUILDING THE COMPANY THE VAULTS SECURITY THE PATEOLS — J. C. DUNCAN, THE PROJECTOR. THE BUILDING. IN the heart of the money centre of San Francisco is located the building occupied by the Safe Deposit Company of San Francisco. It has a frontage on Montgomery street of 137J- feet, and 68f feet on California street. The building is five stories high, and the material used in its construction is iron and ornamental stone. It is majestic in its proportions. The architecture is highly ornamental but is harmonious in all its outlines. It is a perfect model of strength and symmetry. THE COMPANY. The Safe Deposit Company was incorporated in 1874, and the building was completed and business inaugurated in the fall of 1875. Eugene Casserly was elected President, and J. W. Raymond Vice-President and Manager, with B. F. Le Warne Secretary. The capital stock of the company is two million dollars, divided into twenty thousand shares of one hundred dollars each. The sole object of the company is to provide an absolute safe place of deposit for treasure, money and valuables, a provision greatly needed in every city. With this aim in view they have constructed their vaults so as to be proof against fire and water and the most ingenious burglars. It is a matter of impossibility for the bank robbers, with all the skill and mechanical aid they can command, to gain en- trance to these vaults. THE VAULTS. The construction of the vaults is simple in general outline, but complicated in detail. The plan adopted is one immense vault, inside of which the thousands of small vaults are ar- THE SAFE DEPOSIT COMPANY OF SAN FRANCISCO. 89 ranged. The largest dimensions of the main vault are thirty by thirty-five feet, and eleven feet high. The walls, floor and ceiling of this is a solid fire-proof casing composed of burglar- proof metal, in thirty courses of steel and iron, welded and bolted securely. Within this impregnable cell are four thousand six hundred small safes, built in solid tiers, the doors of each being fur- nished with key and combination locks of the finest construc- tion. Surrounding the great vault is a corridor completely inclosed by a network of iron and steel, and here continually, night and day, the armed patrol, under charge of the superin- tendent, make their rounds. The small safes are made of burglar-proof material, and each door, besides having the combination locks, is j)rovided with key escutcheons, the key to which is in the hands of the officers. This renders it necessary for an officer to always attend the renter to his safe, as it is impossible for him to unlock it, un- less he first have the officer release the escutcheon. There is also an ingenious contrivance which prevents the withdrawal of the key until the safe is again locked by the renter. Upon entering the vault-room an imposing sight greets the eye. The vaults stand out as a monument of mechanical skill. The engravings of the vaults and vault-room, the different avenues around it, the massive entrance and exit doors, the offices for renters, and the ladies' parlor, all impress one with the grandeur and beauty displayed in their construction. SECURITY— THE PATROLS. The safes, and the vault in which they are placed, were planned and constructed by the most skillful mechanics, and under direction of the company's engineers. The quality, not the cost, of the work was considered. No two locks are alike; hence there is no danger of a renter, if he be so inclined and opportunity offers, opening any other than his own safe. Every renter, before being admitted to the vault, must be identified by the proper officer. With every change of renter the lock is also changed. A satisfactory introduction is inva- riably required of a renter before he can obtain a box. When the company was organized, Mr. F. E. R. Whitney was appointed to the position of Superintendent of Vaults and Chief of Patrol. Mr. Whitney has under him five patrolmen, 90 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. who are citizens of known reputation and undoubted integrity. They are armed and uniformed, and guard the premises day and night. Every thirty minutes, communication is had be- tween the armed watch outside and the patrol within. A tele- graphic report is sent half hourly to the Police Headquarters. The windows are strongly barred and the room is brilliantly lighted all night. "With these precautions it is scarcely possible that any attack upon the vaults would prove successful. There are four sizes of safes, and these are rented by the day, month or year, at prices varying as to their size. "With so secure a depository for valuables, there is no reason why any future conflagration in San Francisco should destroy any very important documents or valuables. J. C DUNCAN— THE PEOJECTOE. There is no person to whom is due more credit for the com- pleteness and security of the vaults and building of the Safe Deposit Company, than Mr. J. C. Duncan — its projector. Being an old resident of the city, and having been long identified with its progressive interests, he fully understood the need of an institution of this character. His sagacity discovers itself in the fact that he awaited patiently the coming of the time when the people would heartily co-operate in the enterprise. When that time did come, he did not let it pass unimproved, but quickly seized the opportunity, initiated the project and pushed it to completion. He organized the company, and his personal supervision was given to the erection of the building, with its immense vaults. He not only has the satisfaction of viewing the realization of his plans in this magnificent structure, but is also apprised by the patronage extended that the public fully appreciate his work. Mr. Duncan is the largest stockholder in the company. He is also largely interested in the Pioneer Land and Loan Bank of Savings, which occupies rooms on the first floor of the Safe Deposit Company's building, and holds the office of Secretary of that institution. It is by the enterprise of such men as Mr. Duncan that San Francisco has made such rapid strides in material progression, and to whom is due an acknowledg- ment of their labors. JAMES LICK. 91 XI. JAMES LICK. HIS EARLY LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO " LICK'S FOLLY" HIS MUNIFICENCE. HIS EARLY LIFE. PENNSYLVANIA was honored by her Girard. She is also honored again by having produced a James Lick. France has the credit of the former's nativity; but Pennsylvania fostered and developed him, and on her was bestowed his benefactions. It was reserved to the young and vigorous State of California to nurture the latter, and she has reaped the benefits. James Lick was born in Fredericksburg, Pennsylvania, August 25, 1796. His grandfather was a native of Germany and emigrated to America in time to serve in the army of the Ke volution. His father was a Pennsylvanian by birth. James had but meager educational advantages, receiving only the benefit of the common schools, which in those days were, perhaps, models of strict discipline, but wanting in excellence. When yet in his boyhood, he was employed by an organ- maker at Hanover, and with him learned the first principles of the trade that he afterward followed. In 1819 he was given a situation in a prominent piano factory at Baltimore, Mary- land. The following year he was attracted to Buenos Ayres by the inducements that country offered to enterprise and the advantages it afforded for money-making. There his ability as a shrewd speculator and sharp financier manifested itself, and after a sojourn of about twelve years he returned to Philadelphia with a capital of $40,000. Upon his arrival in Philadelphia he determined to start a piano manufactory, and with this object in view leased certain property for the pur- pose. This notion was immediately abandoned, and he pur- chased a large invoice of pianos and returned with them to Buenos Ayres. 92 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. We next find him at Valparaiso, Chili, engaged in piano making. He remained there for some time, and then em- barked for Peru, where he was constantly engaged in the same business for ten or eleven years. While there, just previous to a contemplated visit to California, his workmen deserted him and went to Mexico. This left him in quite a dilemma, as he had a number of contracts for pianos yet ' unfilled, when his workmen went away, and it was impossible for him to obtain other experienced mechanics. He, however, determined not to throw up the contracts, and instead of making the journey he had anticipated, applied himself to the task of finishing the in- struments. This cost him two years of hard labor. IN SAN FRANCISCO. In 1847 Mr. Lick arrived in San Francisco. He brought with him $30,000. He looked about him for some profitable investment. His former experience in new localities served him well here. In prospect, he saw San Francisco Bay float- ing a vast commercial fleet. The bare and desolate sand-hills of the peninsula his imagination covered with beautiful dwell- ings and well-kept streets. The water-front he pictured as noisy with the turmoil of trade. With this lively view before him, he bought large tracts of suburban real estate, which could then be obtained for a nominal sum, and also invested largely in the most desirable business lots. A large lot at the corner of Montgomery and Jackson streets he purchased for $5000', and shortly afterward sold a part of it to Duncan, Sherman & Co. for $30,000. The year following his arrival in San Francisco (1848) the gold excitement broke out. While almost every one was off to the mines, Mr. Lick remained in the city purchasing real estate. All these transactions were per- formed quietly, and even after San Francisco had attained an enviable rank as a city, his intimate associates could not tell the extent of his purchases. During those bustling times there were in the city many of that class of land grabbers known as "squatters." With these Mr. Lick had considerable trouble. At one time he kept men employed at $20 per night, guarding his property from their encroachments. "LICK'S FOLLY." San Jose, by reason of its location in the centre of a rich agricultural district, had been, previous to this time, a town of JAMES LICK. 93 more importance than San Francisco. Mr. Lick turned thither. He purchased a favorable mill site and proceeded to erect a large flouring- mill. Persons who were oracles of wisdom, laughed at his project. He, however, kept his own counsel and toiled on at his structure. The principal part of the wood- work was built of mahogany. The whole edifice was a perfect model of mechanical skill and workmanship. It was made on the most substantial plan. The cost when complete amounted to $200,000. The finish and ornamental work was not surpassed in the palatial drawing-room. Some one facetiously spoke of it as Lick's folly, and this title was passed from mouth to mouth until it became its historical sobriquet. Notwithstand- ing the jests and witticisms this mill provoked, it did turn out first-class flour, and commanded the respect of every good housewife whose pride was to set before her guests whiter and lighter biscuits than her aspiring neighbor. It has been said that Mr. Lick had private reasons for build- ing the structure in so expensive a style. Rumor intimated that at a very remote period in his life, when he was but a boy, and almost penniless, he was in the employ of a rich miller who had an accomplished and beautiful daughter. Mr. Lick, it is said, became infatuated with her and aspired to her hand, and went so far as to hint to the old gentleman the state of his feelings and the height of his ambition. The old miller treated his overtures jestingly and taunted the young asjnrant of his poverty. This was a severe wound to his sensitive nature, and he vowed openly that the time would come when he would build a mill of his own that would so much surpass that of the old gentleman, as to bar all comparison. "Whether this be but an idle rumor, or has a shade of truth about it, it certainly shows the disposition of the man — to do anything he undertook. Perseverance and great industry have been his leading traits. He tenaciously clung to any plausible undertaking until he accomplished his object. The Lick House, on Montgomery street, which has for so long commanded the patronage of the fashionable and wealthy public, was built by him. The principal feature of attraction in this building is its magnificent dining-hall. Mr. Lick is very unostentatious in his demeanor. He usually occupies a plain suite of rooms in the Lick House. He rather shuns society, and rarely takes part in, or even attends any 94 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. public reception, banquet, or select social gathering. He is retiring in disposition, and has simple habits. There are no modern luxuries in his living. All he seeks is modest comfort. He is dignified and gentlemanly in manner, and in conversation is concise and brief. He is thoughtful, sometimes unto moodi- ness; he perfects his plans without consulting any one, and gives personal attention to their execution. He is now in his eightieth year. His grandfather enjoyed unusual longevity — having lived to the ripe age of 104 years — from whom Mr. Lick no doubt inherits his strong constitution. For the past few years, however, he has been in bad health, and is confined closely to his room. HIS MUNIFICENCE. Mr. Lick was so successful in business that he amassed a large fortune. Feeling that in the natural course of events but few years of life at most would be spared to him, he wisely chose to attend to the desired distribution of his property per- sonally, not leaving its adjustment to be quibbled over in the courts. By a trust deed dated July 16, 1874, in which five of the most prominent citizens were appointed trustees, he bequeathed property, the aggregate value of which exceeded five million dollars, to various public institutions of art, science and be- nevolence. The full control of the property — its disposal and the dis- tribution of the money realized from it — was vested in the trustees. Some large sales had been made by them, and every- thing seemed to be goiug forward in perfect compliance to the letter of the deed, when the following communication was placed in the hands of the trustees : San Fbancisco, March 24, 1875. Messes. Thos. H. Selby, D. 0. Mills, Henby M. Newhall, William Alvobd, Geo. H. Howabd, James Otis and John O. Eael. Gentlemen: When I executed the instrument in which you are named as my trustees, I supposed I had a very short time to live, and that if my intentions of founding an observatory and other public institutions were ever to be carried out, it would be through you. I was therefore induced, hastily and without due and proper consideration, to execute the instru- ment referred to. It is still my intention, and ever will be, to carry out the general purposes therein expressed, but I now find upon a cool and careful study of the provisions of that instrument which my improved health has enabled me to make, that there are many and serious mistakes and errors of detail in it which ought to be corrected. One of the most JAMES LICK. 95 serious of these is, that by the terms of said instrument, the execution of the great works which I have contemplated, is virtually postponed until after my death — a result that I certainly never intended. Another serious objection is that some of the beneficiaries (whose claims upon me I per- haps did not sufficiently consider) have declined to accept its terms, and this fact, as I am advised, will indefinitely delay, if not entirely prevent, the carrying out of the plans, for the execution of which you were ap- pointed my trustees and agents. Under the circumstances, and as I desire while I still live to see the works contemplated at least started, and as I am advised and am entirely satisfied that the instrument referred to does not and cannot accomplish the purposes desired by the public, as well as myself, I respectfully ask you, and each of you, to resign or to revest in me the subject of the trust, so that by the execution of other papers better calculated to carry out my plans, the works contemplated from the beginning may at once be com- menced and carried on to completion without delay. I request you not to sell any more of the property included in my deed of trust, and I beg of you the favor to answer this communication imme- diately. I remain, with great respect, etc., James Lick. The letter explains itself. Three days later, a complete revocation of the trust deed was filed with the Recorder. This action elicited much unfavorable comment from the public and the press, yet Mr. Lick's determination was not altered. On the 21st of September, 1875, another trust deed was exe- cuted, in which Richard S. Floyd, Faxon D. Atherton, Sr., Bernard D. Murphy, John H. Lick and John Nightingale were appointed trustees. It bequeathed as follows: To the Regents of the University of California $700,000 is bequeathed for the erection and maintenance of a " more powerful telescope than has ever been constructed," with a suitable observatory and buildings, to be called the "Lick Astronomical Department of the Uuiversitj' of California." For the founding of a school of mechanical art for educating males and females in the practical arts of life, such as work in wood, iron, stone, and all the metals, to be named the " Cali- fornia School of Mechanical Arts," and located at San Fran- cisco, $540,000 is donated. For the erection and maintaining of free public baths in San Francisco, $150,000 is given. For the erection of a bronze monument to the memory of Francis Scott Key, author of the song "Star Spangled Ban- ner," $60,000 is bequeathed. 96 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. For a group of bronze statuary representing, by appropriate designs, the history of California, and to be placed at the New City Hall in San Francisco, $100,000 is set aside. For the erection of an Orphan Asylum in or near the city of San Jose, California, to be free to all, of whatever nationality, sect or creed, $25,000 is apportioned. There is bequeathed to the Protestant Orphan Asylum, San Francisco, $2500 ; to the Mechanics' Institute, San Francisco, $10,000 ; to the Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, $10,000; to found an institution called the "Old Ladies' Home," $100,000; and to the "Ladies' Protection and Belief Society," San Francisco, $25,000. To the California Academy of Sciences and to the Society of California Pioneers he bequeathed the remainder of his valu- able property. After all the bequests are made, except that to the Academy of Sciences and Society of Pioneers, he reserves to himself for the term of his natural life the use and exclusive management of his homestead property at San Jose, but at his decease this also goes to the California Academy of Sciences and the Soci- ety of California Pioneers. After discharging the trusts and making the payments mentioned, the residue of the proceeds of all the property is given in equal proportions to the Califor- nia Academy of Sciences and the Society of California Pio- neers, to be expended by them respectively in the erection of buildings, and after that in the purchase of a library, natural specimens, chemical and philosophical apparatus, rare and cu- rious things useful in the advancement of science, and gener- ally in carrying out the purposes of the societies. Before the deed was made Mr. Lick had already given to these societies each a lot 80 x 275 feet on Market and Fourth streets. The lot of the Academy fronts 80 feet on Market street and that of the Pioneers 80 feet on Fourth street, the rear ends of the lots meeting, and leaving the corner between for other purposes. It is Mr. Lick's intention that the build- ings of the societies be erected on these lots. It is estimated that the lot belonging to the Academy is worth from $200,000 to $250,000. It is also supposed that the residue of the prop- erty which is bequeathed to these societies will amount to from one million to a million and a half dollars to each. With this magnificent endowment the California Academv of Sciences JAMES LICK. 97 -will have the best financial condition of any scientific society in the United States. Even sujoposing that they never receive any more than the lot already donated, which they hold in fee simple, the Society is in excellent financial condition. His son, John Henry Lick — whose name apjDears as one of the trustees — receives as his portion $150,000, and $20,000 is set apart for the erection of granite monuments to four of his near relations. The name of James Lick will ever be revered by Califor- nians, and his memory will not fade. 98 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XII. "JACK." AT SEA — ASHORE — BETHELS SAILORS 5 HOME — POOR JACK. AT SEA. TO those whose habitations are remote from the sea; upon whose ears the roar of ocean never harshly breaks; whose eyes seldom or never behold the mighty deep wrought up to furious wrath; to those who dwell amid inland quietude, where Nature is seen only in her more lovely aspects, "A life on the ocean wave, A home on the rolling deep," is surrounded by a halo of romance, the contemplation of which is exhilarating and inspiriting. Even the horrible details of shipwrecks fail to impress them with the perils to which those are exposed "who go down to the sea in ships." There is no class of fiction devoured by youthful readers' with greater gusto than " Tales of the Sea," or " Sketches from Xiog-books of Old Tars." Imaginary heroes of "haunted ves- sels" are topics of eager talks among ambitious urchins, who, in their dreams, float over silver seas, "brave sailor boys" upon some phantom ship. But to the sailor who has been ordered aloft, and is desper- ately clinging to the swaying yards as the ship reels before the furious gale, putting his feeble efforts against the maddened elements, there is a terrible realization of the dangers that beset him; though his heart be steeled against fear, and his arm strengthened by manly courage, he feels and knows that he is at the mercy of the pitiless storm. A life at sea may have charms for some; but for those who are but sailors, there is little attraction. It is exile; often slavery. The ship may be rotten; the officers may be brutal; an epidemic may rage, and death become a fellow-mate; there is no escape. Above, the heavens may become overcast and frown wfth "JACK." 99 muttered threatenings; beneath, the angry waters may lash and seethe — a vortex here, a moving mountain there; but there is no escape. Within the narrow confines of the ship he must remain, to meet storm, famine, pestilence, disease and death. Birds of ill omen flit above him, uttering weird screams in mockery to his slavery; monsters of the deep chase him amid sunshine and storm; they come and go at will; they are free. Shut out from all mankind, encompassed by danger, all is monotony. The lashing of the water is heard, unceasingly; the beating of sails, the creaking of masts, or the regular stroke of the engine is forever in his ears. The mind becomes dwarfed for lack of diversion. The same unchanging scenes are around, the same monotone of sounds are heard, until the intellect fails to comprehend that there is a great world of restless, active life beyond this glinting horizon. Hence the superstition that torments sailors. ASHORE. Dickens probably did more to expose the schemes by which the credulous sailor is entrapped when ashore, than any other single person. Although the general public was shocked at the character and extent of the abuses practiced upon unsus- pecting Jack, and were disposed to attribute the extreme cases to (he very fertile imagination of the novelist, his sketches did much toward directing the attention of the proper authorities to the evil; since when there has not been such a catalogue of infamous practices to record. Yet Jack is everywhere and always so credulous that the temptation to take advantage of his credulity is so great that there are found in every seaport of any importance, many who subsist upon the booty nefariously obtained from him. When a vessel from a foreign port is announced off the heads, there can be seen shooting out from the water-front numerous small boats bearing the boarding-house crimps, each endeavoring to be the first to board the vessel and get into the good graces of Jack. A lavish display of glittering chains and ornaments — for which Jack Tar has ever had a weakness — a clinking of coin and a " long pull " at a capacious bottle, are a few of the attractions that a sailor nearing port cannot withstand; and even though his intention has been to remain faithful to his ship, he not unfrequently yields, and slips 100 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. stealthily over the side of the ship and is not seen again by his officer. Deep-water Jack, on shore, is as much out of his element as a bunko sharp would be following the plow. He is at the mercy of the land-shark. It is " hale fellow well met" until the earnings of his last voyage and the prospective advance coin of a future one are exhausted; then there is no room in any of the sailor boarding-houses along the water-front for muddled, crazed, besotted and penniless poor Jack, and he is unceremoniously shipped on the next outgoing vessel. Deep-water ocean vessels require able seamen for crews, and there is therefore a good demand for experienced sailors. "When a captain is making up his crew for a voyage, he applies to the boarding-house master for a certain number of men. The prevailing custom is to pay in advance to each of the crew a certain part of their prospective earnings^ — $60 generally being the amount. Herein is the secret of the friendly feel- ings that the boarding-house masters entertain for Jack. "When drunk (and on shore he is seldom sober) Jack is a genial, jovial, whole-souled fellow, intent on having a real jolly time — whioh he certainly deserves — mirthful even to boisterous- ness, taking infinite delight in "spinning yarns." As to the manner in which his money goes, he has little or no thought, and therefore he is easy game for the smooth-tongued board- ing-house master. So, then, by the time the vessel upon which Jack has (many times unconsciously) signed a contract to ship upon is ready to sail, not only his pocket-money, but the advance due him at sailing, is gone, and under cover of darkness he is led down to the wharf, placed in a small boat, and before his stupefied brain realizes his position, may be out of sight of land — em- barked upon a long and hazardous voyage, without having made any provision for his personal comfort, and not even aware of his destination. Coasting Jack is more of a worldly-wise kind of a man than his deep-water fellow. He is usually of that vagabondizing class who, when they cannot get an easy job on shore, take to the sea. Hence he is not so easily entrapped, and perhaps oftener comes out a trick ahead at any sharp game that is indulged in, than the wary boarding-house master. He is equally at home on land and water, and is therefore not de- "JACK." 101 pendent upon any of the "friendly" shipping agents. He is not much sought after by the crimps, unless it be for the opportunity of avenging some "beat" that he has perpetrated upon them. When seaman are scarce the captains often pay a bonus to the shipping master for every man shipped. The shipping master in turn fees the boarding-house master to supply the men, and Jack, whose services have commanded the bonus, gets — not a cent. In the event of an excess of seamen the boarding-house mas- ters pay the captain a bonus for the privilege of shipping men; then Jack is recognized as a party to the transaction, and must "put up" the money required to obtain his position. That Jack is drugged, robbed, and kidnapped; violently abused in person, and not unfrequently sent on his last long voyage by being launched into the waters of the bay, when stupid, from drink, has been told over and over again ; that there is much truth in such statements, has been asserted and reasserted; that in San Francisco such misdeeds are frequently enacted, has been said; but it will ever continue very much the same, so long as the "Almighty dollar" is the most potent in- fluence in life, no matter what laws may be enacted ; by talk- ing and writing, the public may be so directed to it that it may be kept in certain limits, and perhaps checked to a degree which results would certainly repay the trouble. BETHELS— SAILOR'S HOME. No matter what his avocation, or how depraved man may have become, there are always a few good souls who earnestly strive for his reformation. They would elevate him and restore him to a pure manhood, could their holy desires be gratified. But such philanthropy meets with so many checks ; there arc so many opposing forces against which it must struggle, that the good that might be done is not manifest, and the good that is accomplished is scarcely revealed. San Francisco has a Mariner's Church located near to the water front, wherein the sailor of every nationality is invited to participate in religious worship. The services are conducted in different languages, by earnest and able clergymen, and are perhaps more largely attended by the sailors than such churches are in more populous cities. A Sabbath school held at the 102 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. same place is also well attended. Prayer meetings are held almost every evening during the week, and temperance meet- ings, too, are frequently conducted there. The absence of the well-to-do up -town residents from all these meetings is marked, and there is no stronger indication than this of the lack of interest in the welfare of the sailor. It is a fact that the more favored persons in life are more care- less of the needs of the poor than those whose portion of this world's goods is meagre and scarcely adequate to their necessi- ties. No saying has been more certainly verified than that which says, " to them that hath shall be given, and from them that hath not shall be taken away." The meetings conducted at the Mariner's Church are unsec- tarian. There is a wide field for fruitful labor in this congre- gation. Missionary work on the street, in the boarding-houses, and on ship-board, and the distribution of tracts, religious pa- pers and bibles among all this class, for whose benefit the church was established, constitute a large and responsible labor. The Mariner's Church receives much support from the San Francisco Port Society, which was established in 1860 — its ob- jects being the moral improvement of the seamen and others connected with the sea in this port. The Ladies Seamen's Friend Society, organized in 1856, though not nearly so well supported and efficient in its objects as it might be, is nevertheless what its name signifies, and is constantly though silently working for the good of the sailor. Its intentions are, to surround the sailor, while on shore, with proper influences, administer to his needs, and provide a Home wherein he will be protected from the impositions that other- wise beset him. POOB JACK. Who in this wide world is more deserving of sympathy than Jack? His is a life of toil, of privation, and of incessant peril. We read with tearful eyes of the last agonizing wails of those passengers who went down with the ill-fated Pacific. O, how heartrending was that scene where so many persons were sud- denly launched into the pitiless depths of ocean, to rise no more! Innocent childhood, blooming youth, the strength of manhood, and feeble, tottering age, all passengers on that doomed craft, met the same terrible fate, and their memory "JACK." 103 Las been watered by briny tears, even as their bodies are watered by the waves of ocean that roll above them. Where were the crew of the vessel when this fearful tragedy of death was enacted ? Were they not among the number that jDerished ? Are there not some hearts in those shabby dwell- ings down near the water's edge that were made to bleed when the fate of the vessel was announced? In that long list of horrors it was simply said that "the crew also were lost." Why do we look so tenderly into the eyes of a loved friend as he steps aboard a vessel bound for some foreign port ? Why do we press that hand so warmly, and cling to it so long as we take the parting grasp ? And as the vessel glides rapidly away, and nought is visible upon her deck but phantom-like outlines of human forms, in whose shadowy hands nutter handker- chiefs — the last parting signal — why do we, even after the vessel has disappeared, continue to gaze out upon the water? We realize the dangers that overshadow them in the journey they have set out upon, and we fear that we shall " never see that face again." Such are the perils that forever threaten the life of poor Jack. Nay; they are even greater. How often does the cry escape through the teeth of the storm — " Man overboard 1 " "Who was it ?" "A sailor from the rig- ging, sir!" "lis a simple story, and shortly told. His duty called him aloft ; he lost his hold, and was hurled far out into the water. It is said of the sailors that not more than one in ten have families. This is certainly very fortunate; for what a life that wife must lead, whose husband is ever upon the sea. It is a life of watching and waiting, and many times she waits for- ever ! We should think more of Jack; care more for him; and, above all, do more for him — for he is invaluable^ and to him we are greatly indebted for the progress we enjoy. 104: LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. XIII. TEE TOPOGRAPHY OF SAW FRANCISCO. TELEGEAPH HILL LONE MOUNTAIN. TELEGKAPH HILL. SAN FRANCISCO reposes among the hills. For this reason there is no one point from which a topographical view of the city can be taken that will do it anything like justice. In the early days of this "upheaved city," its inhabitants, when they wanted to facilitate their communication with the outer world — and enough is known of the character of the place at that period to warrant the belief that probably this desire never prevailed in a community more strongly than among the early San Franciscans — climbed the heights of the highest of these hills, in what is now the eastern border of the city, whence they could obtain a view of at least all the shipping hovering about the bay, and especially the new arrivals as they approached the' city through the Golden Gate. A station was erected there, from which the approach of the vessels entering the harbor was announced to the anxious population below. Separate and easily understood signals were arranged by which the keeper of the station could communicate to the people the kind of craft, whether sidewheel steamer, propeller or sail ship, that was heading for the city. Thus were they apprised in advance, of the arrival of unexpected or long-looked for vessels, and sometimes for hours before "their ship had come in" and effected a landing, the eager populace stood waiting on the shore. Because of such use, this prominent point soon became known as "Telegraph Hill," and coming generations will probably know it only by that name. V It is now climbed daily by scores of busy artisans who, with their families, occupy the houses- that are perched along its southern side, extending almost to the summit. Visitors, who for the view it affords, or perchance to revive; some cherished recollection that it alone can awaken, THE TOPOGRAPHY OF SAN FRANCISCO. 105 or those representing that large and influential class who, when asked, " Should auld acquaintance be forgot, An' never brought to min'," always answer no, often scale its tortuous paths, and lying* prone upon its summit, indulge in reveries that recall its in- teresting associations that now linger only in memoiy. Such a visit to the top of Telegraph Hill shakes off the dust from memory's page, and affords the visitor a rare opportu- nity for ventilating his warm sympathies with a community of people whose ways have been imperfectly understood. And the view of the Bay, Goat Island, Alcatraz and Mt. Tamalpais, far beyond, which it affords, is an ample compensation for the labor required in the ascent; but it is of little avail in forming a correct estimate of the topography of San Francisco. Mont- gomery Street, it is true, one of the finest and liveliest streets in the city, is open to the observer, from beginning to end; but the life is not clearly defined in the distance, and the sur- roundings are anything but picturesque. The business part of the city, with its massive and monotonous blocks, here and there relieved by a tower or steeple rising far above the sombre roofs — spreads out from the base of the hill far to the south, and to the water front on the east. "Where now stand the prin- cipal business houses, a quarter of a century ago the waters of the bay were sparkling in the sunlight, and huge ships rode at anchor. Above this, ugly sandhills rose up to check the west- ward march of improvement; but a progressive people have uttered the prayer of faith, and these hills (that were almost mountains) have been cast into the sea, the tide has receded, and where then spread the waste of water and towered the barren hills, are now the many temples of Commerce. LONE MOUNTAIN. In the opposite x>art of the city Lone Mountain rises, another prominent landmark. A tax on the imagination must be levied to make a mountain of this hill; and its loneliness is not appa- rent, for it is surrounded on nearly every side by eminences, some of which might be denominated mountains with much more propriety. In shape it is rather symmetrical, and its surface is covered with a profuse growth of wild flowers and native shrubs, exhibiting in its few bare spots good samples of 106 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. California soil. Could a liberal supply of water be brought to the summit of Lone Mountain, the project of converting it into an ornamental park, and making it one of the most attractive points of San Francisco, would be strictly practicable. All that is requisite is a complete system of terracing, liberal and judicious planting of trees, shrubs and flowers, and an abund- ance of good walks. Lone Mountain and much of the land about its base is owned by the Catholic Bishop of San Francisco. Its summit has long "been very appropriately crowned with a large Catholic cross. Unfortunately this relic of early days, with its curiously carved niches and initials, was leveled with the ground during a recent gale. In its stead another, of larger dimensions, with a more substantial foundation, was promptly reared, and having re- ceived its complement of white paint, now stands conspicu- ous as a monument of the worthy Bishop's religious zeal and executive ability. Standing in the shadow of this mammoth cross, to the west, lie the undulating sandhills, beyond which is seen the gleam- ing surface of the ocean ; while to the north the Golden Gate and an arm of the bay is in the view. Looking eastward, the city spreads out over a broad and uneven surface, and the smoke from the steamers and the topmasts of ships that lie at anchor in the harbor, rise in the gloomy distance. Here the observer sees but little of the life that is within this busy city, but there are no intervening hills to obstruct the view of the several "cities of the dead" dependent upon San Francisco for their supply of inhabitants. Lone Mountain Cemeteiy is conspicuous at the north; the Masonic at the south ; the Catholic or Calvary at the east ; and the Odd Fel- lows at the northwest. These latter scenes are somewhat sombre in their suggestive- ness ; still, the sad reflections that they awaken are immedi- ately dispelled by casting a glance in the direction of Golden Gate Park, which lies to the south and west, toward the ocean, for there may be seen at almost any hour of the day one of the brightest and gayest phases of San Francisco life. Its magnifi- cent drives are thronged with fine equipages, and upon the stiff breeze that comes in from the ocean is borne a sound of life and merriment — the joyous voices of the happy occupants of ihe swift-moving vehicles. THE TOPOGRAPHY OP SAN FRANCISCO. 107 Besides Telegraph Hill and Lone Mountain, there are numer- ous other prominent elevations in the city proper. Russian Hill in the northwest is notably prominent, and affords a splendid view of the city, country, bay, and ocean through the Golden Gate. Clay Street Hill, the highest in the city, being three hundred and seventy-six feet above the bay, is a near neighbor to Russian Hill, and its summit is likewise sought as a point of observation. This hill is crowded by residences, and is considered one of the most healthful locali- ties on the peninsula. Rincon Hill is a small elevation rising from the low lands in the southerly portion of the city, and in the earlier history of San Francisco was the most aristocratic residence locality. But when the "Second Street Cut" was projected, dividing the hill into two half cones, its beauty was endangered, and wealthy persons began to look in other direc- tions for building sites, and the completion of the excavation has rendered it an undesirable place of abode. However, some of the finest and most homelike private houses of the city stand on Rincon Hill. Mission or Twin Peaks, the loftiest points in the county, form a picturesque background in the southwest- erly suburbs, about three and one half miles from the City Hall; and Bernal Heights, two miles beyond — recently a scene of wild excitement, because of the reported gold discoveries thereon — almost traverse the width of the peninsula, and shut off a further view. 108 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XIV. THE ELITE. WHO ABE THEY — A WEDDING IN THE UPPER TEN — A FASHIONABLE FUNERAL. WHO ARE THEY. FEW cities have so great a proportion of wealthy inhabi- tants as San Francisco. Some of them have acquired fortunes by close application to business, long and constant effort, and a strict integrity. But these are few. Many of the wealthy men of San Francisco have, at a stride, stepped from a cottage into a mansion. The getting of much gold has been a chance game. The "pot" was full; they played and won. A sudden turn in stocks has often lifted men from pov- erty to affluence. It is a game that all play at, and some must, of necessity, win. It is those who suddenly secure great wealth who compose the elite. Money gives the most vulgar, rank. Fashionable society opens its arms to the man who has gold, be he a knave or a fool. The greatest ambition of the elite is to be leaders of their clique; their sole motive, to keep well up in the fashionable world. The person is adorned, and the mind neglected. They study to be brilliant, vivacious and amiable, in the ball-room or at the banquet, but relapse into a peevish and fretful mood at home in the family circle. Their nights are spent in revel, their days are dull and mopish. Gaslight is more favorable to decaying beauty than sunshine. There is much social vice among the elite. Immorality is not unknown, and even virtue is tainted. Theirs is a life of excitement and dissipation. A MARRIAGE IN THE UPPER TEN. When it was announced a month in advance, that a daughter of one of the most fortunate California Street speculators was to join in wedlock with a gentleman of acquirements as well THE ELITE. 109 as a fashionable star, all the ton was in a hubbub of excite- ment, and gossipers had palatable food. It was the society talk, that the forthcoming event would be the most brilliant affair that had illumined San Francisco's upper world. There was every reason to suppose that nothing would be spared by the parties most interested to make it so, as the bank account to draw from, as well as the inclination to surpass anything of that nature that had hitherto set the gay world astir, was suffi- cient. There was not a little flitting to and fro among the belles, and papas oftentimes were seen to run over the columns of their bank-books and contemplate the "balance" with a scowling countenance. "Wardrobes were replenished, and toi- lette artistes were consulted and engaged. There was also much speculation as to who would be omitted when the invitations were sent out, and who would be the recipients of the special *' cards of honor." At length the evening came. At eight o'clock gay equip- ages could be seen whirling rapidly in the direction of the mansion, bearing on their silken cushions the richly attired guests who had been invited to witness the ceremony. They were handed to the carpeted sidewalk by courteous gloved attendants, and were admitted and ushered to their rooms by servants in full dress. "Within was a scene of rare splendor. Crystal fountains were playing; mysterious strains of music soft and sweet, echoed faintly in the arches. The air was per- fumed with the fragrance of the choicest flowers. Pyramids, wreaths, arches and graceful festoons of delicate, trailing vines, studded with camelias, jessamines, tuberoses, mignonettes, carnations and white roses, added gorgeousness to the rich and costly upholstering. A brilliant, yet soft illumination was emitted from the sparkling chandeliers. Jewels, rare and bril- liant, decked the heads and throats of beautiful women. The ■ceremony was performed, and the hidden orchestra touched their harps anew, and the halls and chambers of the glowing mansion were filled with lively harmony. By this time, the numerous guests who had been invited to the reception, were pouring in. The blushing bride and pale- faced groom stood 'neath a gorgeous floral arch, to receive the congratulations of the company. Refreshments had been dis- tributed at convenient intervals throughout the building, so that all could partake as they desired. Chinese lanterns illu- 110 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. mined the grounds, porches and balconies. In the dance-hall a bower, nestled in a forest of evergreens, had been arranged for the musicians. Tropical plants, placed in rustic borders, shadowed by waving palms and graceful ferns, with here and there a spreading cedar, bordered the hall. Rare exotic shrubs of every description were met in graceful groups at every turn. The orchestra was composed of the most skillful artists, and numbered more than twenty-five pieces. At ten o'clock the banquet began, and from that hour until the early crowing of the cock, a scene of revelry, and mirth, and splendor, such as the ordinary person would not witness during a lifetime, was enacted. Such is the wedding cere- mony among the elite. A FASHIONABLE FUNERAL. Death is no respecter of persons. His reaper is industrious^ mowing every field in its season. In the bog-land, and on the highland the sound of his sickle is constantly heard. Though there be luxuriant fields that wave their strengthening stalks in the bright sunshine of exuberant life, and nod and laugh in mockery, as his swift wheeled chariot rumbles past, a blight may at any moment come upon them, and so weaken and speed their decay that they, too, must be garnered. Why do the bells toll so, as we write? 'Tis not the deep- toned fire-bells that fill the air with clangor ! It is a solemn note they strike — a dirge for some departed soul. A star in society has gone out, and these are the funeral bells. The friends of the departed are already gathering to witness the last rites. The corpse now lies in state in the drawing-room of yonder dwelling. The casket containing it is made of the costliest wood, and trimmed with solid silver. It is mounted on a gorgeous catafalque. The columns of the room are trimmed with smilax, and the cofim is profusely dec- orated with flowers. The house is thrown open to the public, and hundreds throng the halls and doorways, pass in and view the remains, and then retire. The most prominent members of the society circle in which the deceased moved, are chosen as pall-bearers. The body is conveyed to the church. Here the floral decorations are even more elaborate than at the residence. Wreaths, crowns and crosses, of the costliest and rarest flowers are THE ELITE. Ill heaped on the coffin until it is almost hidden from view. Every seat in the large edifice is full, and the aisles and vesti- bule are ])acked with curious persons who have come to wit- ness this brilliant funeral. The services are brief. An eulo- gistic address is delivered by the minister. A requiem is sung by the prominent professional singers. The grand procession forms, and slowly marches to the cemetery. There are per- haps a hundred private carriages and nearly as many public conveyances. The cemetery reached, the remains are deposited in a vault for future disposal, the cortege turns about, and when without the cemetery gates drive rapidly to their respect- ive homes. " That was a triumphant funeral," said one of the leading belles as she threw her cloak on the sofa and con- fronted the mirror to adjust a white rose at her bosom. 112 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XY. THE BANK OF CALIFORNIA. ITS FOUNDING SUCCESS SUSPENSION AND RESUMPTION. ITS FOUNDING. THE Bank of California has ever been distinctively a Cali- fornian institution. It was conceived by William C. Halston, for the purpose of utilizing, by association, the vast capital in the city that was lying idle and unproductive. In April, 1864, the first meeting was held, and an organiza- tion effected, and in the following July the association was permanently established and incorporated, with a paid up gold capital of two million dollars. The Board of Trustees was composed of Wm. C. Balston, D. O. Mills, Louis McLane, J. B. Thomas, W. Norris, J. O. Earl, Thos. Bell, Hermann Michels, A. J. Pope, O. F. Giffen, and J. Whitney, jr. With this nucleus the Bank was continued until July, 1866, when it was decided to increase the capital stock to five million dollars. Previous to this, however, it had paid one or two dividends, and besides had accumulated one million dollars in undivided earnings. The books were opened to the public for subscriptions, and the balance of the increased capital was raised. From this time to January 1st, 1875, it paid a regular monthly dividend of one per cent. , when these were discontin- ued, and in lieu of which a semi-annual dividend of six per cent, was declared and paid on the 1st of July, 1875. But a little more than a month later it was forced to temporarily suspend business, its doors were closed to the public, from which cause a financial panic ensued. SUCCESS. Up to this time the Bank of California had enjoyed remark- able prosperity. Few institutions in the world have so rapidly risen to such influence and importance, and nothing had done 60 much for the State of California, by inspiring the world THE BANK OF CALIFORNIA. 113 with confidence in her proclaimed greatness. It had built up a reputation for itself, and representing not onty the name, but the resources of California, had also materially aided in raising her into the first ranks of the sisterhood of States. Its letters of credit were available all over the world, and it had established correspondents and connections in all the principal cities of the United States, Europe, India, China, Japan and Australia. The Bank of California, at its founding, at once became iden- tified with the development of California. Its managers and supporters were men who had faith in the future greatness of the State. They were mostly men possessing large individual capital that had been accumulated, here, and, let it be said to their credit, they followed the example of the projector of the Bank, who, when urged to transfer his interests to an eastern city, said: " I have made my money here, and it is but just to the country that I should use it here to build up a business that will not only benefit myself but the whole State." The influence and capital of the Bank were directed to the development of the resources of the State. Mining received an impetus from it that soon made it a self-sustaining and profitable industry; and agriculture, that was yet an experi- mental project, was developed into the chief resource of the State by its friendly support. Manufacturing in all its branches, by the encouragement it offered, sprung into a flourishing ac- tivity, and commerce, although prematurely great, was strength- ened in its sinews by its upholding touch . It was the guardian of the infant industries on the coast, sustaining them until they had grown strong enough to stand alone. It is not strange that while thus extending aid on every hand, some unworthy and unsafe enterprises should slip in and share of the bounty. In a number of instances, heavy loss resulted from this* cause. Injudicious loans were made and unprofitable investments. When New Montgomery Street was opened, two million dollars of the Bank's capital were locked up in the project. By the Kimball Manufacturing Company and the Woolen Mills, a million and a half was rendered un- productive and not available. May it not be, however, that while the Bank suffered these losses, and others of a similar nature, the city and country has been reimbursed, and many laborers have been furnished with employment that otherwise 8 114 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. would not have been, by the existence of these enterprises among us? Thus may we look for good results even in dis- aster. SUSPENSION AND RESUMPTION. When, on August 26th, 1875, the Bank of California sus- pended payment, the excitement of the San Francisco populace knew no bounds. Vague rumors were heard on every side of the rottenness of this, and the instability of that bank, and murmurings of fraud and treachery floated upon every breath. Other banking-houses were forced to close their doors — some only to hold in check the excited multitude and stay the ebbing* confidence — others because of inability to meet the demands upon them. The very air seemed to inspire the feeling of panic. Not since the reign of the Vigilance Committee in "56, had there been such a spirit of uncontrolled and wild excite- ment manifest. A sort of volcanic sentiment, pent up and ready at the slightest rupture, to burst forth in devastating violence, seemed to pervade the masses. The tragic death of Mr. Ralston, the president of the bank, only intensified this feeling, and caused the cool and reasoning lookers-on to tremble for the financial safety of the city. The causes that led to the disaster are not yet fully explained- Some assigned as a reason, that the capital of the bank had been withdrawn for speculative purposes, to such an extent that it could not meet the ordinary demands upon it. But the most reasonable explanation of its suspension, and that most generally accepted as true, was the scarcity of available money in the city, caused by the heavy drain from the Atlantic States, and the amount circulated through the country to move the crops. Men well posted as to the condition of the finances of the coast assert that during the twelve months preceding the sus- pension of the Bank of California, thirty million dollars had been shipped to the East and that three millions were at that time locked up in the crops. So great a reduction of available funds would naturally depress the money market, and by the great demand thus created, cause depositors in banks to draw upon their accounts for operating capital. There are few banks that can stand a continued " run" upon them. There would be little inducement to engage in the bank- ing business if it were required of each bank to keep lying idle all THE BANK OF CALIFORNIA. 115 the money deposited with it. In conducting a healthy "banking business, there is always a large surplus in reserve above the amount required for the ordinary daily transactions, the excess over this being used as operating capital by the institution. So when anything transpires to cause an extraordinary and sudden withdrawal of deposits, because of not having time allowed to call in loans and convert various securities into available capital, the soundest banking-houses are sometimes forced to temporarily suspend. The suspension of the Bank of California tested the recupera- tive vitality of the financial heart of the city; it gave the oppor- tunity to show how much stamina this "mushroom metrop- olis " possessed. In this, it was a blessing to San Francisco, for she showed herself master of the situation. There were many who had grave doubts as to the bank ever resuming business, and during the heat of the excitement rumors of its utter rottenness were heard and eagerly reported by gossiping croakers. But in less than six weeks, confidence was restored to the public mind, the wealthy stockholders had subscribed to a guarantee fund of seven and a half million dol- lars; and the doors of the Bank of California had been opened amid the din of cannon and the shouts of the multitude. On the opening day, it was anticipated that there would be a heavy drain on its vaults, but when the balance was struck at the close of the day it was found that the deposits exceeded the amount withdrawn by thousands of dollars. This was an unlooked-for expression of confidence, and was a most encour- aging discovery to the managers. The time that has elapsed since the reopening day has only strengthened the faith in the stability of the institution and there is now, no reason why the Bank of California shall not in the future maintain the financial reputation that it had ac- quired previous to its embarassment; its influence meanwhile widening throughout the world and its sustaining power being- exercised in the further development of the resources of the State whence it takes its name. 116 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XYI. THE PUBLIC LIBRARIES. REFINED PUBLIC TASTE THE MERCANTILE LIBRARY — THE MECHANICS' INSTITUTE LIBRARY ODD FELLOWS* LIBRARY SMALLER LIBRARIES. REFINED PUBLIC TASTE. "T~Y7"HEN the circumstances that led to the rapid building VV of San Francisco, and in fact the settlement of the whole State, are considered, the natural conclusion would fol- low, that the majority of her citizens were distinctively wed to business; that money-making was their sole object to the exclu- sion of more refined ambition. This was true to a very great extent among the earlier gold-hunters, but each succeeding tide of immigration has brought with it those whose ambition led them into intellectual pursuits, and the result is, that in a race of a quarter of a century refined culture — art, science and literature, has kept well up with the more brusk and dashing business acquirements. The one has upheld the other, and the benefits accruing are mutual. Polite literature, scientific research and the mellowing influence of art, are not lost sight of by the San Francisco public. They are supported and cher- ished by willing hands — not by the select few, but by the masses. THE MERCANTILE LIBRARY. San Francisco has reason to be proud of her public libraries. Indeed, the Mercantile Library would be an honor to much older and more populous cities. It was organized on January 24, 1853. Its beginning was modest, but it has grown to en- viable proportions already. The Library building is a massive and imposing edifice, and its internal finish and arrangement are very complete. It is situated on the north side of Bush Street, between Montgomery and Sansome. The building is tlireo stories high, with attic and basement. On the first floor is the library, reading-room, reference library, ladies' reading- MERCANTILE LIBRARY BUILDING. THE PUBLIC LIBRARIES. 117 room, parlor, and trustees and janitor's room. On the second floor are the chess and smoking-room, writing-room, museum and store-room for periodicals. The basement contains a spacious lecture-room and supper-room, with ladies' and gen- tlemen's dressing-rooms. This building was erected in 1868. Its value at that date, together with the ground upon which it stands, -which is also the property of the Association, was estimated at two hundred and sixty thousand dollars. Since then, by reason of the vast improvement of the part of the city in which it is located, it has very much appreciated, so that its present value perhaps exceeds three hundred and fifty thousand dollars. In 1870, the method that has in recent years obtained much favor in other cities and states, for raising money for public use — that of holding gift concerts — was tried by the Mercan- tile Library Association, and resulted in great success. By the profits it yielded, the Association was placed upon a stanch financial basis, and as it has always been exceedingly fortunate in choosing wise and judicious persons to manage its affairs, it is not unreasonable to expect it to not only grow more volu- minous, but also to extend its usefulness in the community that has so cheerfully sustained it. Its refining and civilizing influence cannot be spared, and it is therefore important that every citizen in San Francisco, especially the members who are constantly enjoying its intellectual benefits, should exert their individual influence for its continued prosperity. If the Library is accomplishing the objects to which the eloquent orator in his dedicatory address at the completion of the build- ing, consecrated it, it is not only worthy of, but imperatively demands, the supporting influence of every intelligent San Franciscan. He said, at closing: "And now I dedicate this Temple to the true Mercantile Spirit; to the spirit of true honesty, which, rejecting the letter of the written contract, looks to its spirit, which disdaining all deceit, all mean and petty advantages, takes the just for its rule and guide; to the spirit of true equality, which, stripping oflf from man all accidental circumstances, respects and rever- ences him according to his merit; to the spirit of enterprise, whose field is the earth, the air, the sea, the sky, and all that in them is; to the spirit of munificence, that never tires in lav- ishing its treasures on all good objects on the scientific expedi- 118 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO.. tion, on the library, the university, the cause of religion, and on the soldier battling for the right; to the spirit of loyalty, that submits calmly and patiently to that great bond which holds society together — the law — which aims to reform, but never to resist or overthrow; to the spirit of patriotism, which follows with affection, pride and devotion, the daring mark of our country's flag; and to the spirit which worships God." The library contains between forty and fifty thousand vol- umes, consisting of standard works on every department of science, art and literature. There are choice collections of French, Spanish, German and Italian literature, together with bound volumes of all the standard periodical publications of Europe and America. The bibliography also is very complete. A light iron gallery extends across two sides of the room for the convenience of the Librarian. On the next floor above, the regular files of the newspapers, magazines, etc., are arranged on convenient tables and stands. In this reading-room there are one hundred and sixteen maga- zines, about twenty-five illustrated papers — some of which are foreign — over one hundred Atlantic and about one hundred and fifty Pacific Coast papers. There are also regular files of papers from the Sandwich Islands and the Cape of Good Hope. During the past year there were over eighty thousand volumes taken from the library, indicating that those who avail them- selves of its benefits are numerous. For the last six years the average yearly circulation has exceeded eighty thousand vol- umes. An idea of the literary tastes of the members may be gained from the number of volumes taken out of the different classi- fied departments. During the year 1875, there were furnished to members the following: Romance, 55,175 volumes; Juvenile, 4,078; Travels, 2,940; Biography, 2,366; Belles-Lettres, 1,677; Science, 3,4G8; History, 2,355; Poetry, 1,525; Spanish, 81; French, 2,G83; Collected Works, 1,327; German, 1,637; The- ology, 597; Periodicals, 175 — making a total of 80,084 volumes. The total membership of the Association, in January, 1876, was 2,135. Of these, 1,726 were subscribing, 318 life, and 91 honorary members. Any one in good standing in the community can become a member of the Mercantile Library. Two dollars for initiation and three dollars quarterly dues, paid in advance, entitles one to its full benefits. THE PUBLIC LIBRABIES. 119 THE MECHANICS' INSTITUTE LIBRARY. The Mechanics' Institute was organized March 29, 1855. The object of the organization was to establish a library and reading-room and collect a cabinet of minerals, etc., scientific apparatus, works of art, and for progress in mechanical science. The Institute has been very prosperous. It now has in its li- brary-rooms about thirty thousand volumes, among which are many valuable and rare scientific works; also on its tables are found numerous standard periodicals, magazines, newspapers and illustrated publications. It is the official repository for the United States Patent Office Reports and contains many volumes of Foreign Patent Reports. The library has recently received a magnificent donation from the English Government of a complete set of British Patent Office reports, the third set in the United States. A large room has been fitted up for their special reception. The books are most valuable for reference as they run back to the earliest date. All the necessary drawings accompany them. "What has given to the Mechanics' Institute its greatest popu- larity are the Industrial Exhibitions that have been held from time to time under its auspices. The public have taken much interest in these and they have always met with hearty en- couragement. The tenth exhibition of this Institution began on the 18th of August, 1875, and continued open to the public up to the 9th of the following October. As many as thirty thousand persons have visited the Pavilion, in which the fairs are held, in a single day. By the profits, accruing from these exhibitions the Institute has made many valuable accessions to its library and apparatus, and is in a most flourishing condition. Any one can become a member by the payment of one dollar initiation and one dollar and fifty cents quarterly. The Institute building is at No. 27 Post street. THE ODD FELLOWS' LIBRARY. At No. 325 Montgomery Street, the Odd Fellows' Society of San Francisco have a commodious and well appointed Library room, containing over twenty-five thousand volumes of the various departments of literature. In this library is a very extensive collection of works on the early history of the Pacific Coast. Their cabinet of mineral fossils, etc., is said to be the 120 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. choicest in the State. No other secret society in the city has as fine a library, and the Order is justly proud of its success in this line. The Odd Fellow's library was organized on the 30th day of December, 1854. It is largely patronized by the mem- bers and friends of the Order. SMALLER LIBRARIES. Almost every literary, art, or historical society in the city has its collection of books pertaining to its special objects. Some of these are quite extensive. The Society of California Pioneers, the Academy of Sciences, the Young Mens' Christian Asssocia- tion, the San Francisco Yerein, together with numerous other literary, benevolent, or religious associations, all, have libra- ries more or less voluminous. There is a Military Library, that was incorporated in January, 1873; its objects, to acquire, preserve and conduct a library, to consist of books, magazines and periodicals of a military char- acter. They have on their shelves some six hundred volumes,, and about one hundred maps. The San Francisco Law Library, is an important accessory to the law student. It contains about fifteen thousand vol- umes of standard legal, biographical and miscellaneous works. Some of the hotels have collections of books and periodicals that are quite attractive to their studiously disposed guests. There is no lack of choice reading matter in San Francisco, and we believe that this fact is attested by the intelligence of the people. SUNDAY IN SAN FEANCISCO. 121 XVII. SUNDAY IN SAN FEANCISCO. FIRST BELL — SECOND BELL — SUNDAY AMUSEMENTS PICNICS — BEER GARDENS — SUNDAY NIGHT. THE FIRST BELL. THE first utterance of the divine command, ' ' Remember the Sabbath day to keep it holy," has reverberated in swelling echoes from the walls of centuries, and is caught up to-day by thousands of eloquent tongues; the bells in the steeples, by their harmonic chimes, proclaim it to the world; yet, the chil- dren of men go their ways unheeding. Sunday in San Fran- cisco! Well, what does that signify? A day of rest? Yes; to a few. A holy day? To some. A day of sport, of mirth, of levity, jollity, riot and dissipation? Aye; to many. In the early morning of a Sunday, San Francisco presents a quiet and peaceful scene. The streets are almost deserted, and the clatter of the swift-rolling wheels of the milk-wagon, as it whirls over the glistening cobble-stone pave, echoes and resounds like a shot in the solitude of a forest. San Francisco slumbers late on Sunday mornings. Saturday-night dissipa- tions call for rest, and not until nine o'clock on Sunday morn- ings does overtaxed humanity revive to open out the shutters and let in the light of day. But by this time the first bells are sounding, calling the children to the Sabbath-schools. Doors begin to open, and gates turn on their hinges, and soon the little feet go pit-a-pat upon the sidewalks; and Some clad in the richest robes, And some in threadbare dresses; But Nature knows no rank or caste In lavishing her tresses. But few older persons mingle in this throng of little folk. Their breakfasts are not yet eaten, their toilets not performed; they await the sounding of the second bell. The joy-notes of 122 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. the Sunday-school children will have floated up through the archway of the gold-paved city, and the angels in the seventh Jaeaven will have given echo to the strain, before their older brothers and sisters have even tuned their sacred lyres. SECOND BELL. Down at the ferry-slips the throng of pleasure-seekers are hurrying on the boats. On the rolling waters of the Bay small excursion steamers puff and pant, and make the timid oc- cupants of white-winged yachts that drift along their course scream out with affright. Street-cars crowded with all classes of persons dressed in their best suits pass to and fro. Car- riages drawn hj dashing teams hurry through the streets. The sidewalks are gaudy with the gayly-dressed pedestrians that press past each other. Some are on their way to church, while others are hastening to the various picnic and pleasure grounds across the Bay or in the suburbs. In the more fashionable churches the display of toilettes is bewildering. The costliest fabrics, the most delicate tints and shades, the artistic blending of colors, together with the flash- ing jewels that adorn the persons of the ladies, contrasted with the sombre garb of the gentlemen, make a scene of splendor, the attractions of which are sufficient to divert the attention from the most eloquent sermon. Operatic music in- termingled with sacred staves swells up from the choir of pro- fessional singers, and the deep-toned organ pipes forth its tremulous notes in harsh vibrations. And the preachers preach. The "good old gospel sermons that were wont to thrill the souls of all the hearers in the earlier history of our country" are now but seldom uttered from the pulpit. In every age the heart of man has new desires. "Meeting-house exhortations" are superseded by modified and altogether delightful lectures. St. Paul is eulogized for his brilliant powers; the writings of St. John are chosen as the theme of discourse, because of the sentiment of love that pervades them; David, the psalmist, is praised for his poetic style and classic rhetoric; the Book of Revelations furnishes favorite texts for speculative theorists. He whose eloquence enkindles and stimulates the morbid imagination of his congregation is the popular preacher of to- day. "What a contrast of sentiment in the birth and centen- nial anniversary of the American Republic! SUNDAY IN SAN FRANCISCO. 123 SUNDAY AMUSEMENTS. Sunday is play-da}- to San Franciscans. But few work. Even the Jewish people, either for lack of patronage or because of a desire to join in the general frolic, do not as a rule keep open shop. By noon, almost all Sunday -workers have quit their labors, donned their Sunday clothes, and are off to the scene of revelry. There are very few Sundays in a year that a steamboat ex- cursion or picnic cannot be enjoyed. The climate puts no check on out-door amusements. Hence there is scarce a Sun- day but what there is a festive gathering at some of the many recreation grounds near the city. Oakland and Alameda furnish pure air and country scenery, and therefore many pleasure grounds are there provided and kept open on Sundays. These are choice resorts to the work- ing classes, and persons of moderate means, as the mode of travel is comfortable, quick, and cheap. Woodward's gar- dens, and the various Plazas, are also numerously visited by the same class. Golden Gate Park and the Cliff House are the attractions to the fashionable arid wealthy. After the morning services in the churches are over, all lines of travel are crowded by the pleasure-seeking populace. Liv- ery establishments reap a rich harvest on Sundays. The most public thoroughfares and well-kept drives are teeming with life. Private carriages throng the highways and the suburbs that are so quiet during six days, on every seventh become the busiest and noisiest part of the city. Beer gardens become rivals of Babel. Not only the German population centre there on Sundays, but foreigners of differ- ent nationalities, and many Americans, join in the eating, drinking, and merry-making. Dancing, swinging, bowling, jumping, running and singing constitute a part of the amuse- ments. Sweet music is discoursed from rustic balconies. Sum- mer houses hid behind hedges of cypress and sheltered by the golden acacia and drooping willow, furnish quiet retreats for romantic lovers. A "free and easy" feeling pervades the whole throng, and nothing — not even the still small voice of conscience — is permitted to disturb the charm of hilarity. SUNDAY NIGHT. There are few Monday issues of the morning papers that do not employ their stereotyped heading " A chapter of Sunday 124 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. horrors." Sunday night is a busy time for the policemen. The hoodlum element is in its glory. A day of riot prepares the vicious for a night of crime. Those who pass the after- noon at pleasure resorts out of curiosity, for the recreation it affords, or merely to see and be seen, have had enough of earth's follies for one day, and are glad when the thickening gloom of darkness warns them to their beds. But the rowdies and dissolute who bibble and carouse all day grow boisterous at twilight, and when night has enveloped the city, are em- boldened and do not hestitate to commit the most fiendish crimes. The low dives are thronged with cut-throats and ruffians, and the frequent outbursts of profanity and ribaldry startle the quiet passers-by. Dance cellars and concert saloons teem with inebriated life. Saloons, both high and low, are in full blast. Corner groceries — those nurseries of vice and intem- perance that abound so numerously throughout the city — are filled with boys and men who gather there to jest, and smoke and drink. The tide runs high on Barbary Coast, and the filth and slum of society floats upon the surface. The lowest dens of in- famy are brilliantly lighted up, and in the doors and by the windows the most debased of fallen women stand gaudily attired and beck and nod to viler men that promenade the walks in front. The gilded palaces of sin chami the listener by harmonious strains of music. The "hot-houses" of hell receive more propagating warmth on Sunday night than during all the week beside. All the theatres and play-houses are open — the lower class putting on the boards the most obscure and sensational plays. The better and first-class houses are mostly devoted to German plays. The attendance is unusually good. Many persons visit the theatres on Sunday nights who never attend on other evenings. Dancing academies are filled with merry assem- blages, and every variety of amusement meets with encour- aging patronage on Sunday night. Churches that were thronged at the morning service are almost deserted at night; but lecture rooms, where expounders of modern and "pro- gressive" religious ideas spout their well-learned homilies, are filled with curious listeners. In the midst of this revelry and riot; this mockery and dis- SUNDAY IN SAN FRANCISCO. 125 sipation; in this same San Francisco that has so little old time reverence for the Sabbath, there are some who do not forget that their ancestors called this day the Lord's, and are strict in the observance of the command to keep it holy. The}' are devout in their religious service, and although com- posing but a small minority, do not hesitate to take up the cross and follow their chosen Leader, always endeavoring by word and precept to lead others with them. 126 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. XVIII. THE SUMNER LIGHT GUARD. MILITAEY — COMPANY "e" — AS MARKSMEN THE "SUMNERS J ' SOCIALLY. MILITARY. BESIDES the regular United States soldiery, San Erancisco has within her limits military organizations comprising^ a numerical force of over two thousand five hundred men. This body consists of three regiments of infantry, one battalion of cavalry, and one light battery of artillery — all attached to the second brigade of the National Guard of California; also fif- teen independent military companies numbering about a thou- sand men. The force is made up of the citizen soldiery, and considering the civil duties devolving upon them, it is remark- able how skilled they have become in the difficult art of war. Many of the companies comport themselves at drill in a man- ner that betokens the veteran warriors. Although they come from the office, the store, the workbench and forge, and from every peaceful industrial pursuit, they are a hale band of men, ready at any time to shoulder their knapsacks and step from the luxury of domestic life into the tented field. California's loyalty to the Union, during the war of rebellion, was due more, perhaps, to the patriotism of her home soldiery than to the preponderance of a loyal sentiment among her citi- zens. The military in San Francisco has ever been loyal to their country's flag — and was, during the war, even radical in their devotion to the Federal Government. COMPANY " E." While there are other companies in the National Guard of California that are equal in military accomplishments to this, Company E, or "The Sumner Light Guard," is perhaps most widely known, because of having produced a rifle team that has particularly distinguished itself at several important con- tests in marksmanship. THE SUMNER LIGHT GUARD. 127 Fourteen young* men, all members of the First Congrega- tional Church in San Francisco, took the first step in organiz- ing this company, by each signing the following preamble : " Believing that our duty to our God and our country is para- mount to every other duty, and that our country's safeguard consists in the ability of her citizens to defend themselves against the assaults of foreign and domestic foes, we, the un- dersigned, hereby form ourselves into a military corps." On August 16, 1861, they called a meeting in the vestry of the Church, at the corner of Dupont and California streets, and invited a number of their friends to attend. The meeting re- sulted in the election of a President and Secretary, and the appointment of committees to procure a suitable drill hall, and to make all the necessary arrangements for a permanent organ- ization. Turn Verein Hall, on Bush Street, near Powell, was secured and retained for a place of meeting and drill, until the present Armory of the First Begiment was erected. The first drill officer was D. D. Neal, a gentleman of varied acquire- ments, who has since achieved quite a reputation as an artist in Germany. The company was formally organized, according to the law of the State of California, on October 14, 1861, Col. John S. Ellis, commander of the First Infantry Begiment, presiding at the election of officers. The commissioned officers elected were: Captain, Thomas B. Ludlum; First Lieutenant, Stephen Barker; Second Lieutenant, Bufus "W". Thompson; and Brevet Second Lieutenant, Abram Moger. In July, 1864, Capt. Ludlum was elected to the office of Lieut-Colonel of the regiment, and was succeeded, as Captain, by Abram Moger, who in turn was succeeded by Charles H. Daly, Oscar Woodhams, and Henry J. Burns, the present Cap- tain. Three of the "Sumners" commanders have held the position of Lieut-Colonel of their Begiment — Capt. Ludlum (•who has also held the office of Colonel), Mogers and Wood- hams — the latter yet acting in that office. The " Sumners " have always been reliable, and in any ex- citements where the presence of the military was deemed neces- sary to restore order, they have been a willing and chosen company, to such service. A few years ago, when the miners in Amador County "struck" for higher wages and grew so belligerent in demeanor as to intimidate all local authorities, 128 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. this company, in connection with company C — the "Nation- als " — was detailed to go to the scene of disorder, and promptly responded to the order. Fortunately, the military in San Fran- cisco have not been introduced to the rigors and dangers of actual conflict on the battlefield, but there is no reason to sup- pose but that, should the emergency require, they would "fight as Kosciusko fought, and, if needs be, fall as Kosciusko fell." AS MAEKSMEN. The Sumner Light Guard was the first military company on the Pacific Coast to introduce the Hythe system of scientific shooting into their drill practice. In July, 1873, it was dis- covered that two members of the company, Messrs. James Gowrie and W. B. Grant, were proficient in the new method of shooting; and, in August following,, classes were formed to engage in this practice, under competent instructors. Shortly thereafter, target practice in the field was begun, and has since been kept up, though at times under very adverse circum- stances. The Hythe system has recently been adopted at Creed- moor, and is fast coming into general use all over the country. Under command of Captain Burns, the Sumners have given much attention to target shooting, and the popularity they have gained in their several contests has prompted most of the mili- tary organizations on the coast to emulation in the practice. . In a match for the championship between States, the Sum- ners were victorious over Company D, 12th New York State National Guards and the " Emmet Guard" of Nevada — winning for California the championship over New York and Nevada. The company recently made the highest score in short-range practice that has been recorded in the United States, and at the annual target practice at Camp Schofield it has been vic- torious in several brigade matches. The Sumner rifle team that has engaged in the principal contests, is composed of the following members of the com- pany : H. J. Burns Captain. E. . Hunt ., Lieutenant. G. H. Stboug Sergeant. Chas. Nash Corporal. David Watson Private. John Stkkd " J. Robertson " Wm. Bubkh " THE SUMNER LIGHT GUARD. 129 Chas. B. Preble r Private. R. A. Sarle " W. P. MURRAY A. S. FoLGER , " Wm. Dove " V. C.Post. Thos. Murphy " If, in our future wars, when " foe meets foe in battle array" the ' ' beads" are drawn upon each other as deliberately and accurately as in the target practice of to-day — if their nerves do not grow unsteady at the thought of death, the havoc will have been so universal that few, if any, will be spared to shout the victory, or tell the tale of defeat. THE SUMNERS, SOCIALLY. During the earlier years of the company's existence it was an exceedingly popular organization in society. Many of its members ranked high in the social scale, and frequent parties and entertainments were the offspring of their social disposi- tions. Nearly all the members were young, and buoyant of spirit, and nothing was more enjoyable to them than a mirthful " frolic." By the townsfolk, it was considered a mark of dis- tinction to receive an invitation to a ball or part} 7, conducted under the auspices of Company E, of the 1st Regiment. But of those who were young and light-hearted then, some have joined the army of the dead, others have dropped out of the ranks and have been lost sight of in the hubbub of the world, while those who yet remain have mostly taken upon themselves family cares, and are so held down by the pressure of business that little time can be devoted to the company, except as discipline demands. The name " Sumner," adopted by the company, is in honor of General Sumner, who was in command of the U. S. Military Division of the Pacific, at or near the time the Sumner Light Guard was organized. 9 130 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO, XIX. EMPEROR NORTON. HIS EARLY LIFE ' ( EMPEROR OF CALIFORNIA AND PROTECTOR OF MEXICO " DRESS, HABITS. HIS EARLY LIFE. EVERY city has its share of eccentric characters. There are always some persons who, either from a desire to be odd and peculiar, or because of a fancy resulting from a dis- eased or unbalanced mind, adopt a manner of life entirely dif- ferent from any other of their fellows. The forms of this peculiarity are as varied as the persons assuming or bearing it are numerous. With few exceptions,, however, they — like many of those who, by the ordinary stand- ard of human intelligence are adjudged to be sane — assume to be persons of much greater worth and importance than. they really are, and entitled to greater consideration from.' their fellowmen than they receive. Perhaps the most original and best sustained character that is met on the streets of San Francisco is that of "Emperor," adopted by Joshua Norton, an English Jew. To look ivpon him, knowing his early history in the city, one feels like ex- claiming with Ophelia, ' ' how great a mind is here o'erthrown !' ' His is not merely a character assumed for effect or peculiarity, but results from a disordered mind — a mania or hallucination. Yet there is much of "method in his madness." His early life is shrouded in mystery. He was born irr England, and from there went to the Cape of Good Hope, where he entered the military service as a member of the colonial riflemen. How long or how well he served in that capacity we are not informed. In 1847 or '48 he came to San Francisco, and is remem- bered by the early pioneers as having been a shrewd, safe and prosperous man; possessing more than ordinary intelligence, fertile of resource and enterprising. His business pursuits EMPEROR NORTON. 131 were varied. At one time he was buying partner for three or four mercantile houses in the interior of the State, and in this capacity manifested great business ability. Then he engaged in the real estate business, in which he continued with appar- ent j:>rosperity a number of years. While in this business he became possessor of much valuable real estate, and judging by the frequent occurrence of his name on the city and county records, and the monetary values represented, he was one of the largest land speculators in those early times. If the truth were known, it is very possible that he is to-day the legitimate owner of property, the present value of which if stated would greatly astonish the majority of citizens. A thorough examination of the records would reveal the fact that since he has been afflicted with a mental disorder, he has been induced to relinquish title to property for a mere nominal consideration, the value of which was far up into the thou- sands. Since this centennial year has inaugurated an era of "investigations," it might be remunerative for some one who has a relish for removing patches, scraping off long accumu- lated whitewash, and rumaging among archives, to devote a little time to this matter. It would be interesting, if nothing more. "When his former partner disowns a knowledge of his history in California, and persons to whom he has transferred his interest to valuable real property, "know nothing of his real estate transactions," the interest in this question is nat- urally intensified. It appears that his business career culminated in a grand effort to get a "corner" on rice, which staple was, some ten or twelve years ago, a favorite article for speculation. He purchased all that was in the city and (as rumor has it) all that he could ascertain was in transit, paying large prices with a view of controlling the future market. Of Macondrav & Co. he bought a large cargo, to arrive, agreeing to pay fifteen cents per pound (or thereabout). Other shipments, however, that he knew not of, were reported in the meantime, and upon the arrival of Macondray & Co's cargo the market was so "flat" that he could not meet his contract, and a protracted law suit followed, during which the mania that he was " Em- peror" first became manifest. It is said that he proposed to compromise the matter with Messrs. Macondray & Co. by marrying Mr. Macondray's daughter and investing her with the royal title of Empress. 132 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. EMPEROR OF CALIFORNIA AND PROTECTOR OF MEXICO. His hallucination is, that he is Emperor of California and Protector of Mexico. In accordance with this belief, his sole purpose in life is to properly administer to his subjects, and like a wise ruler should, do everything possible for the promo- tion of prosperity and the advancement of his dominions. His diplomatic relations with other countries are not lost sight of, and he profits by closely observing the progress or downfall of other nations, using their experience in his home policy. His power is duly recognized in times of international or civil wars. He claims to have reconciled the French and Prussians, and brought about the peace that was established between them at the close of the late Franco-Prussian war. The war of the Rebellion was terminated through his interference, and the success attending the reconstruction of the Union, is due in a great part to his wise counsel. His own Empire is vigilantly watched. He is not only skilled in the arts of war, but his wisdom extends to the pursuits of peace. The great resources of California are his pride, and to their proper development his greatest exertions are directed. How he gloats over the mineral wealth of his domain, and the agricultural value of his broad acres are a source for delight- ful contemplation! San Francisco, his favorite city, he calls the " Queen of the Pacific," and the world pays tribute to her. The municipal authorities receive his praise or condemnation as their administration pleases or offends him. By proclama- tion (sometimes to humor his whim published in the city press) he communicates to his subjects his ideas of progress and jus- tice, and never fails to attach his signature with the imperial seal, "Norton I. Emperor of California and Protector of Mex- ico Dei Gratia." Thus, from day to day, he busies himself with the affairs of his Empire, the belief that he rules most royally being strengthened by the allegiance that all show. On his head his crown rests lightly. DRESS, HABITS. Emperor Norton may be known by his dress, as he pays no attention whatever to the varying fashions. His coat is navy blue, cut in the military style, and lavishly trimmed with brass buttons. On the shoulders are heavy epaulettes usually t.ir- : hed from exposure to weather, though sometimes brilliantly EMPEROR NORTON. 133 polished. His bat, the regular Jehu style, is trimmed with some brass ornament, from which extends two or three waving cock-plumes. His boots are notorious for their size, and are less frequently polished than otherwise. During the day he passes the time upon the streets, travel- ing from one part of the city to another, without apparent object, unless it be to see that the policemen are on duty, the sidewalks unobstructed, and the various city ordinances promptly enforced. He occasionally calls at the offices or business houses of acquaintances, stops for a few minutes, talking on general topics, and proceeds on his round — never calling at one place so often as to render his presence offensive, nor remaining so long as to be considered a bore. He is a good conversationalist, and having free access to all the libra- ries and reading-rooms, keeps well posted on current topics. He will talk readily upon any subject, and his opinions are usually very correct, except when relating to himself. He is more familiar with history than the ordinary citizen, and his scientific knowledge, though sometimes "mixed/' is consider- able. Of evenings he may be found at the theatre or in the lecture room, a cool observer and attentive listener. His face is a free ticket for him to all places of amusement and public gather- and oftentimes he makes quite extended journeys by rail and other public conveyances without expending a dollar. Sacramento is a favorite resort during the sessions of the Leg- islature, whither he goes to see that legislators do not prosti- tute their privileges. He is on familiar terms with all officials, high or low, feeling of course that they are only his more favored subjects. He is perfectly harmless, and unless his mind be occupied with some more than ordinarily grave ques- tion relating to the Empire, is jocular, and disposed to be humorous. His living is very inexpensive. He occupies a cheap room, is temperate in his habits, boards at cheap restaurants, which, with many privileges granted him that others have to pay for, reduces his expenditures to a very small sum. ^Yhen he wants money he will draw a check on any of the city banks, take it to an acquaintance who humors his delusion, and get it cashed, thinking, no doubt, that it is a legitimate business transaction. Some of the merchant Jews contribute to his support, and he 134 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. is much better cared for than many who labor hard every day for a livelihood. Thus does his affliction secure him a com- fortable living, happy to-day, without care for the morrow, and free from all the annoyances that to many renders life a bnrdensome existence. THE COUNTY JAIL AND CITY PRISON. 135 XXIX. TEE COUNTY JAIL AND CITY PRISON. THE COUNTY JAIL THE CITY PRISON PRISON LIFE. THE COUNTY JAIL. THE jail building is a low two-story brick structure resting on a stone basement. It is located on Broadway, just on the northerly border of what is known in common street par- lance as " Barbary Coast." The entrance is guarded by a huge iron gate. Passing up the stone steps and entering through this gate, the first floor is reached. This contains the jailer's office, store-room and kitchen, in front, while leading through the back portion of the building is a corridor, on either sido of which is a row of cells, then a yard about fifteen feet square, beyond which is another row of cells. The size of the •cells is quite uniform, most of them being twelve feet long, five feet wide, and eight feet high. The walls are of brick, and the doors of heavy iron. A small grated window, opening outside, with a smaller wicket in the iron door, affords all the light and air that the criminal (or otherwise) occupant obtains. Three or four men are generally confined in these, and if the modern ideas of the benefits of light and ventilation are cor- Tect, it is possible that much discomfort and disease attends a long confinement in these cells. The second floor contains the matron's apartments and sleeping-rooms for the jailers. In the rear of this is a corridor and cells similar in arrangement to those below. On this floor, and somewhat removed from the others, are the cells for females. The only means of admitting light or air in these, is through a small opening in the door. A straw mattress answers the double purpose of bed and seat— no chair, stool or bench being provided. This, with a tin pan, tin plate, tin cup, and pewter spoon, constitutes the furniture of a cell. A shelf or bracket — the prisoner's own make — usually adorns the wall, and upon this is arranged the 136 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. "plate." Notwithstanding the inevitable periodical white- washing, the prisoners continue (as has been their custom since newspapers first became a public commodity) to cover the walls of their cells with various illustrated papers; the Day's Doings and Police Gazette are usually most sought after for this purpose. It would seem that these criminals revel in the thought of crime; and that they may not for a moment in- dulge in a sober thought of life, they place these vice-reflect- ing periodicals about their cells so that they will be a constant reminder of the continued existence of vice and crime. May it not be possible, however, that a lack of other and better papers is the cause of their using these ? They are criminals. Their friends are vicious, if not criminal; and it is among the vicious and criminal classes that such immoral and corrupting periodicals circulate. Their friends furnish them these because they have them. If some of our philanthropic citizens whose- souls are yearning for a subject in need of humane assistance would but look in upon the imprisoned criminals that crowd our jails and prisons, they would find abundant material upon which they could bestow their humanitarian labor. The county jail is usually crowded. It is the goal of the petit criminals. The hoodlum, the house burglar, the sneak- thief and the rioter are gathered into this fold. The prison bill of fare might seem to the poor laboring class — who struggle along from day to day, and barely succeed in securing enough of the plainest food to keep soul and body in union — a great luxury. Printed, it would read: Coffee, mush, bread, beef, potatoes, molasses and soup. Tasted, the coffee might be coffee, the soup might be soup, but following the rule that " the proof of the pudding is the eating," there would be little argument favoring the assertion that it was really coffee and soup. The mush and the beef are certainly mush and beef; but mush and beef may be either good or bad, and the latter term is generally applicable to the quality that is served to the prisoners in the County Jail. THE CITY PRISON. The City Hall of San Francisco stands on the corner of Kearny and Washington Streets. The stranger might pass this building a dozen times and not observe that it is devoted to any public use; unless perchance the unwholesome odor that THE COUNTY JAIL AND CITY PRISON. 137 emanates from the small barred windows 'neath the side-walk should arrest his attention. It is a modest looking building" and withal somewhat weather-worn. Underneath the ChVf Hall is a series of dark and gloomy cells., over the main entrance to which is painted, in black letters, "City Prison." There are two divisions of cells, one part called the old and the other the new, prison. The former com- prises two rows of cells, poorly ventilated, dark, and w T hen overcrowded with prisoners — which is of frequent occurence — very foul. The new prison consists of some five or six cells,, constructed more in accordance with, the rules of health as to ventilation, but poorly lighted, and in no respect a desirable place of occupancy. This is the probationary house of the criminals, where they await the decision of the Police Court, whose decree shall acquit them or give them a passport to the County Jail or San Quentin. The Police Court, which is at once the clover-field of numerous pettifoggers and shysters, and the branding-yard of the law-breakers, is located on the floor above, within easy access of the prison. When the New City Hall is complete, the criminal classes of San Francisco may thank the honest tax-payers for more comfortable quarters wherein they may atone for their sins against the law. PRISON LIFE. As long as a prisoner is under the direct charge of Judge and Jury and the higher officials, he generally has justice meted out to him; for the persons occupying such positions perform their work openly in the presence of a discriminating public. Of the under officials, who gloat over their badges of authority with disgusting pride, the same can not be said. Their acts are hidden from the general public, and hence they have no fear of the lash of criticism. A prison-keeper may be a brute, and the public be ignorant of the fact. His aids may be the worst criminals under sen- tence of imprisonment for crime — and there are often sonic such in the County Jail and City Prison of San Francisco — and (he public at large think they are serving out a sentence in the ranks of the chain-gang. When a prisoner is brought in, his name is entered on the prison register, and the offense with which he is charged is set 138 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. opposite. If the caste of his crime and the cut of his clothes indicate that his rank is above the " vulgar/ 5 he will be treated courteously, and assigned the most comfortable berth. His talents are recognized, and are a convenient capital that com- mands respect. He is a smart villain, but a villain nevertheless. But should he be a poverty-stricken wretch, whom want, per- haps, had pressed to dire extremity, and whose looks and dress betoken his condition, then is he the butt of blackguard ridi- cule and vulgar jests, and fully realizes the truth of the old saw, "it is hard to be poor." The contents of his pockets are displayed for the amusement of those around, and he is hustled off to some obscure and foul den, and if any complaint is made of ill treatment, is violently thrust into his cell, when the door slams behind him and he is at the mercy of the brutal turnkey. £>uch instances have occurred in San Francisco's prisons (we hope not frequently), and they are not worse than many other prisons in the land. Were it only the guilty that suffered such abuses it would be a matter of less moment — but even such treatment of criminals is inhuman. It is a fact, however, that innocent persons alike are forced to submit to such usage, and in almost every instance they have no recourse. Because a person is under the ban of suspicion, does not signify his guilt; and until his guilt is proven, the law assumes him to be innocent. Yet once in the City Prison, no matter how notorious a villain his prosecutor may be, he is thrust into a cell among a mob of low and vulgar drunkards and criminals, and must await "the law's delay" and bear the "insolence of office." When prisoners are transferred from the City Prison to the County Jail, they are generally handcuffed in pairs and led through the public streets. The man who, when his trial is had, will be proven innocent, may be linked to the vilest criminal and forced to go out on the street, where he is sub- jected to the curious gaze of sidewalk loafers until he reaches .the Jail. There is no distinction, if he be a prisoner, guilty or not guilty. Circumstances lead to the arrest of many innocent persons. If the officials did their duties, they would not be forced to Languish in the foul cells where they ofttimes contract diseases that injure them for life. It is not a difficult matter to get in jail; but to get out when once in a San Francisco prison, some THE COUNTY JAIL AND CITY PEISON. 139 strategy as well as considerable coin must be used. If the prisoner has no coin, he may as well sit down and patiently await his aj^pointed time. If he have a friend who would bail him out, it will cost him $2.50 to send a message to that friend. Numerous small taxes of this kind are exacted, which during a month swell the perquisites of certain attaches to a considera- ble sum. If a prisoner has coin (sugar money), he may live luxuriantly as far as eating is concerned. The grocer who keeps across the corner will take his daily order and supply him with any- thing he may desire, even his daily whiskey, for a good round price. The restaurateur is on the lookout for him, and stands ready to serve him with any delicacy in his line. Some "trusty " will, of course, get his commission on all this. There is little doubt but that the prison fare is frequently made un- palatable, for the sole purpose of increasing the demand for outside nicknacks. Influences are brought to bear on the various departments of prison management that the outside jmblic know nothing of, and until the public demand a change it will not only continue, but grow worse. Grand Juries may make their monthly rounds of investigation, but their stereo- typed reports of " all things pertaining to the condition of the jmsoners are satisfactory," will continue to be accepted until public sentiment demands a stricter investigation and a more detailed report. The intercourse permitted between the male and female pris- oners is a disgrace to San Francisco. The frequent recurrence of the same criminals, arrested for the commission of the same kind of crime, indicates that there is something lacking in prison discipline. 140 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. XXI. TEE POLICE FORCE. THE CITY GOVERNMENT THE POLICE DEPARTMENT ; STRENGTH OF THE FORCE ; HEADQUARTERS OF THE DEPARTMENT. THE CITY GOVERNMENT. PBEVIOUS to the year 1856, the city and county of San Francisco existed under separate governments, and maintained separate officers; but, in July of that year, an act, passed by the previous Legislature, consolidating the two gov- ernments, took effect. The municipal government has there- fore since that time been exercised over both city and county. The principal public officials for executing the laws are: the mayor; board of supervisors, of whom there are twelve, with the mayor as president; superintendent of common schools, with twelve persons composing the board of education; the judges of the district, county, probate, municipal criminal, city criminal, police and justices' courts; the chief of police, sheriff, county clerk, recorder, auditor, treasurer, assessor, tax collector, and coroner. Until the consolidation was effected, the necessary outlay for conducting the dual system was enormous; besides, the laws were so lax as to admit of official peculation and various lavish expenditures, without any criminal liability being attached to such conduct. Previous to that time, also, the city had been at the mercy of thieves and criminals of all classes, because of the insufficiency of the constable or police force and their co-operating officials, whose duties were so ill-defined as to be construed as was desired. "When the lawless class would be- come so numerous and bold as to be considered intolerable, the citizens would temporarily assume the responsibility of administering justice, regardless of any existing laws, ordi- nances, and officials, hang a few of the most notorious despa- radoes, frighten the others into flight, and resume the ''even tenor of their way," giving bttle or no attention to municipal THE POLICE FORCE. 141 affairs. But under the new code there has been more whole- some rule; its provisions and restrictions, with the additions raid alterations that have from time to time been found neces- sary for its more perfect working — have proven well adapted to the proper management of the affairs of the city and county. THE POLICE DEPARTMENT. Although there is more business ability, erudition and legal wisdom requisite to judiciously perform the duties of the higher offices, those to whom the lives and property of the citizens are intrusted for safe keeping, occupy positions of more vital importance to the general public. The police force of a city should therefore have at its head men of undoubted integrity and honor, and every member composing the body should be first of all brave and intelligent, and have a keen desire to see justice administered to every creature; and also fully appreciate the rights and liberties of citizens, and the enormity of crime. But police departments are proverbially corrupt; especially is this true in the early history of thriving cities. So unlimited is the authority with which they are in- vested, that, if they be so disposed, they can violate their trust and abuse their privileges to such an extent as to utterly disarm the law and bind the hands of justice. For this reason, every office connected with the management of the police department should be sacredly protected from political manip- ulation, and the whole police force should stand independent of any influence whatever that might be exerted by political chicanery. Merit, and the proj^er discharge of duty should be the only qualifications that would entitle a man to nnj posi- tion in the department, whether high or low. It is far better to have no police and no law at all, than to have the one in league with the lawless classes, and the other administered In- corrupt politicians, whose only aim is personal profit ami ag- grandizement. At the fountain-head of the police department of San Fran- cisco there is apparently some impurity, but the officers of the force and the patrolmen as a body have not been, since the consolidation of city and county, excessively negligent, neither have they been as zealous in the performance <>i' duty, as is frequently the case with such bodies. They seem to have chosen a mean course, avoiding extreme efficiency as well as 142 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. extreme neglect and carelessness. Either from the monotony of the life they lead, which it would seem, in a city with such a restless population as has this, would be interspersed with various exciting episodes, or from downright indifference, the San Francisco police appear to dwell for the most part in a dreamy region, out of which they can be called only by a long and loud cry of alarm. They seem to prefer to be driven by public sentiment, rather than lead and win public commenda- tion. Frequent reminders of duties not performed are neces- sary; but it is seldom required to curb their zeal. But when they once become aroused they are most formida- ble foes of disorder. A riot seldom develops beyond its in- cipient stage; a hoodlum outrage is speedily avenged; gamb- ling-houses are sacked; vice is exposed and reproved; and criminals of all classes hunted down with a spirit and earnest- ness that proves beyond doubt that the material for a most efficient police force exists, and all that is lacking is strict discipline. The organization is good, but the rules governing it are not enforced. The executive officers seem to forget that by pursuing a conservative course there will be nearly as many votes cast against them by the good citizens at some future election as they will gain from the bad element of society. The system of employing "special" or "local" officers, as- practised to a very great extent in the city, while perhaps well adapted to the residence portion of the city, does not give satis- faction in the heart of Barbary Coast or in any part of the city, notorious for the lawlessness of its inhabitants. Only regular officers, paid by the city, should be assigned to duty there. If the officer is paid by criminals to watch over their interests, he can not be expected to inform against them or arraign them for misdemeanor as readily as would one who was not in the least dependent upon them for his salary. The bribes and " hush" money that are held out, are many times too tempting to the regular policemen, but if he be fitted for his position, he will not long be troubled with such offers, and will soon make crime and vice shrink from public gaze. In the pamphlet of "General Regulations" published by order of the Chief, for the benefit of members of the force, and of which every officer is presumed to carry with him a copy, in Section 47, under the head of Patrol Duty, occurs the following- clause: " Officers whose beats cover houses of ill-fame, will be THE POLICE FORCE. 14& held responsible for the preservation of order and decency on. the streets; women of the town must not display themselves at their doors or windows to invite custom, nor solicit custom on the streets." There is no pretension made, whatever (as any- one may see who will take the trouble to stroll along Dupont Street, Waverly Place, and any of the disreputable streets or lanes, after dark) to enforce any part of this clause, except that relating to the preservation of order. Decency is outraged hourly, both day and night, by prostitutes standing in their doors or lounging at their open windows, whistling or calling out to every man passing by. Dissolute fellows will stop on the public highway and engage in vulgar and obscene conver- sation with them, and boys scarce in their teens may be seen loitering along the walk, stopping occasionally to converse with them. And many of the officers on these beats are " specials." STRENGTH OF THE FORCE AND EQUIPMENT. The numerical strength of the force, including the local or special officers, exceeds five hundred. Of these there are only one hundred and fifty regulars, appointed by the Police Com- missioners, and receiving pay from the city. The local officers or ' c specials " are appointed in the same manner as the regu- lars, and operate under similar regulations, but receive their pay from citizens residing on their beats. The higher officers are — Chief, Captain of the Detectives, Cap- tain of the Harbor Police, three Patrol Captains, and five Ser- geants. There are about one hundred and twenty regular Patrolmen and ten Detectives, the remainiug number of the regular force being employed in various special and detailed capacities. They are a fine body of men, mostly above the medium stature, of solid build, and muscular. Their uniform is gray, with any kind of hat or cap preferred. The badge of office is a single silver star, with the officer's number engraved thereon, worn on the left breast, in plain view while on duty. Each officer when on duty is required to carry a Police revolver,, whistle and baton, but no weapon is displayed except in emer- gencies. In the detective service, there are a Captain and nine assist- ants. These are all members of the regular Police force, but are generally engaged on detective business. The San Fran- cisco Detectives have been very successful in their line. I. W. 144 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. Xiees, tlie Captain, has been on the force for over twenty-two years, and has proven himself a very skillful and efficient officer. Henry H. Ellis, the present Chief of Police, is also an expe- rienced detective, displaying ranch tact and shrewdness in that capacity. In Eastern cities, the detectives are wonderfully successful in recovering stolen money or property, but in most instances the robber or person guilty of the crime is permitted to go free. The San Francisco detectives, however, seldom fail both to re- cover the property and arrest the criminal. In this respect, they are superior, for it certainly shows their honesty of pur- pose. While it is sometimes impossible to discover the real criminal and secure his conviction, an expert detective can, as a rule, accomplish this as well as recover the articles stolen; and the frequent failures very naturally awaken the suspicion that he desires to make capital out of the thief, by leaving him free to commit more crimes, and therefore give himself more business, and a chance to gain other rewards. The Police Commissioners are — the Mayor, Chief of Police, County Judge, Judge of the City Criminal Court, and Police Judge. The salary of the Chief is four thousand dollars per year; of the captains, one thousand eight hundred; and the patrolmen, fifteen hundred dollars. The climate being so unir formly mild, there is not that injurious exposure to the members of the force that attends police service in the Eastern States. HEADQUARTERS OF THE DEPARTMENT. The City Hall is the headquarters of the Police Department. The office of the Chief, the Police Court-rooms, and the City Prison, are there. The police telegraph lines, from different stations throughout the cit}', also centre there. In this vicinity there are always many rough-looking persons, both male and female, loitering. At the opening of the Police Court, they gather out of curiosity to see justice dealt out to their kind, or to testify against friends and foes, who have been so unfortunate as to be compelled to lodge for a night behind the City Prison bars. All nationalities are represented, both in the prison and among the spectators in the court-room. The greater number of the prisoners, as to nationality, is perhaps Chinese. Because of the public animosity toward them, and also because of their ignorance of the various city TIIE POLICE FORCE. 145 laws and ordinances that " Melican man " is pleased to put in force, there always appears many such names as Ah Ki, Chung Wang, Sing Song, and Wah Lee, upon the prison roll. The Chinamen are the pets of certain shyster lawyers, who precari- ously exist by looking sharply for the crumbs that fall from the mysterious pockets of the prison-persecuted heathens. There are many amusing and many harrowing incidents almost daily occurring in the rooms of the Police Court. All manner of family difficulties, broils, street-fights, the strange freaks of drunken men and women, disreputable conduct, trickery j villainy and petty crimes of all kinds, and committed under all circumstances, are here ventilated. The position of Police Judge is certainly not very desirable, unless one is 23leased to daily witness the meanest phases, and ugliest side, of humanity. A year's work of the San Francisco police force may be briefly summed up as follows: Total number of arrests, sixteen thou- sand eight hundred and twenty; value of lost or stolen property recovered and restored to owners, fifty-five thousand and sev- enty-four dollars; number of witnesses subrxenaed, seven thou- sand six hundred and twenty-five; nuisances abated, one thou- sand and fifty -two; and lost children restored, five hundred and nineteen. Of all the arrests, the largest number for a single crime was seven thousand two hundred and thirty-four, arrested for drunkenness. There were two thousand three hundred and forty-eight arrested for assault and battery; nine hundred and ninety-two for petit larceny, and six hundred and seventy- two for using bawdy, lewd, profane, provoking and obscene language. There were thirty-six arrests for murder, and one hundred and thirty-four for attempt to murder. Pew persons guilty of the greater crimes have escaped arrest. Comment on this statement is unnecessary. It may not be improper to add, however, that from this showing it appears that San Francisco, with two hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, is not an excessively lawless city; nor, with all their shortcomings, have the members of the police force been idle. 10 146 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XXII. THEATRES. THE EMBRYOTIC PERIOD OF THE SAN FRANCISCO STAGE THE CALE* FORNIA THEATRE JOHN M'CULLOUGH MAGUIRE's OPERA HOUSE AND NEW THEATRE WADE'S OPERA HOUSE AND ART GALLERY OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. THE EMBRYOTIC PERIOD OF THE SAN FRANCISCO STAGE. THE play has ever beeu popular with Californians. In "early days" when the real life drama was a shifting" panorama of tragedy, comedy, burlesque and farce intermin- gled, possessing more thrilling attractions than the truthful delineations of Shakespeare's most interesting characters, San Franciscans were not content without their mimic shows. Play houses were even more numerous than in later years, and al- though the character of many of them was somewhat ques- tionable, there were some that would at the present day com- mand a degree of respect. The circus was the pioneer entertainment bordering nearest to the histrionic art. Early in the year of 1849, a Mr. Howe pitched his big tent on Kearny Street, near Clay, and day after day, and night after night, entertained hundreds of eager spec- tators by feats of equestrianship, and other performances ordi- narily enacted inside the circus ring. Next, and shortly, fol- lowed Foley's circus, which was established on Montgomery Street, near California. These circus amusements constituted the bill of public entertainments, and hence were very nume- rously patronized. It was a change from the monotony of the every-day life of the population, and although the perform- ances in these days of "excellence," would be denounced as third-rate and unworthy of notice or patronage, those forty- niners were only too glad to welcome them as some of the "varieties" that go to make up the much relished "spice of life." The prices charged for the privilege of attending them were, however, of the very highest order — three dollars being '''tiiih , f00W§ THEATRES. 147 charged for pi* seats, five for box places, and for the dignified and altogether superior privilege of a private stall, fifty-five dollars had to be counted out to the door-tender. "Jeems Pipes, of Pipesville/' then entirely (and yet unpro- fessional]}) known as Mr. Stephen C. Massett, next sought to amuse the San Francisco public, by giving a concert (in which he alone w r as first, second and third principal, and full chorus) interspersed with some comic recitations. Therefore, on the 22d of June, 1849, the little school-house on the plaza was thronged to suffocation, and Mr. Massett successfully deported himself; winning, besides many encomiums for his wonderful versatility, the snug net returns of five hundred dollars. The only piano in the country at that time, was used on the occa- sion, and although it was announced on the bills that "the front seats would be reserved for ladies," there were only four present. The first real theatrical performance, was given in January, 1850, in a building on Washington Street, opposite the plaza, known as Washington Hall. The play was The Wife, a fit subject for the almost exclusive male population, and certainly a play well chosen for the attractiveness of its title. The act- ing, however, w T as indifferent, and did not win the anticipated applause. The tastes of the people were not as crude as their appearance indicated, and then, as they have ever since done, they demanded some proof of merit in addition to extraordi- nary assumption. The circuses had ceaseel to be attractive, and to supply the popular demand for a higher class of entertainments, Mr. Eow r e converted his tent into a theatre, and fortunately secured the services of a 1 raveling company of English actors, some of whom possessed undoubted talent. These artists endeavored to excel, and their efforts were heartily appreciated. Under the uncouth garb, and hid away beneath the shaggy and un- kempt locks of the rough looking humans that composed the audiences at these places of amusement, there lurked a degree of intelligence and refinement that was surprising; and only by the various common-place performances that sought to win approbation was it awakened to assert itself, and demand more worthy entertainments. This, then, was really the begin- ning of legitimate theatricals in San Francisco. Model artists had hoped to profitably (to themselves) corrupt the public taste 148 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. and morals by repeated disgraceful exhibitions ; and numerous niuch-self-praised dramatic companies had striven to win recog- nition by giving commonplace and vulgar entertainments; but the public taste was not so vitiated as much of its conduct would betoken, and these were for the most part unsuccessful. In April, a small theatre was opened on Washington Street, near Montgomery, and was occupied by a French company nearly the whole time of its existence — it being destroyed by fire very soon after opening. The evening of the 4th of July following was celebrated by the opening of the "Dramatic Museum," on California Street (near Montgomery), by a com- pany of amateurs, who acquitted themselves very creditably, and in September the dramatic season was inaugurated by Mr. Maguire's "Jenny Lind" (No. 1) being duly opened to the public, with a good stock company and some "stars" of ability. During the season there were some very talented actors at both of the latter theatres, who played well, and were therefore well patronized. Meanwhile another theatre had opened on Clay Street, near Montgomery, but this, for some reason, never became popular. The disastrous fire of May, 1851, swept away most all these buildings for amusement, some of which were never rebuilt. The "Adelphi," a French theatre, on Dupont Street, which had. been built during the preceding year, escaped, and continued in successful operation, while the "Jenny Lind" (No. 2), and the "Dramatic Museum" were both speedily rebuilt and re- opened. The "American Theatre," a superior structure for those days, was next to call for a share of public patronage. It was opened October 20, 1851, and at once by the talent its management secured, attracted full houses. On the 14th of February, 1852, Mrs. Lewis Baker was an- nounced to begin an engagement at the Jenny Lind, (which theatre was now the most substantial and elegant in the city, having been reared on the ruins of "Jenny Lind No. 2," de- stroyed in the fire of June 22d preceding). This lady won golden crowns of praise from Calif ornian audiences. Her enffaerement at the "Jenny Lind" was wonderfully successful. Although she was poorly assisted (except by her husband, who accompanied her), from the first night's performance, she was greeted with hearty applause, and so long as she remained, THEATRES. 149 the enthusiasm that she had awakened grew more intense, until she finally became to be almost adored by the whole theatre- going public. There have been other actors and actresses in San Francisco, some of whom have by their ability won world- wide renown, and stand unrivalled in their profession; but there has not been among them a single one who was so warmly received and retained, and who had such a powerful though gentle hold on the sympathies and love of the people as Mrs. Lewis Baker. Miss Matilda Heron — who appeared on the San Francisco stage during Mrs. Baker's stay, and who San Franciscans de- light to claim as their own creation — by the reform movement she led in dramatic art, by her intelligent renditions, and her gentle, womanly disposition, shared the meed of praise, and was lifted into considerable renown; but all the glory she won, and all the esteem she merited and received, did not lessen the love that was bestowed upon Mrs. Baker. Mr. Baker, during the sojourn of himself and wife in San Francisco, had the management successively of the "Adelphi," during the season of 1852-3, and the "American" during 1853 — Mrs. Baker in the meantime playing almost constantly at these theatres. On January 2d, 1854, they departed from San ^Francisco, and repaired to Philadelphia, where, among their former associates, they retired to the enjoyment of the com- petency their noble exertion in California had gained for them. In the latter part of 1853, the "Metropolitan," then said to be "the most magnificent temple of histrionic art in Amer- ica," was opened by Mrs. Catherine N. Sinclair and James E. Murdoch. From the time Mrs. Baker first appeared in San Francisco, up to the present date, there have been maintained constantly, numerous theatres and halls for theatrical performances, at which have appeared successively almost all the prominent dramatic and operatic artists of America, and many of the leading professionals of Europe; giving the San Francisco public the same opportunity for seeing and hearing persons 38ing the best talent, that the residents of the larger and older cities of the world enjoy. Even in earlier days, ilie theatre buildings were of a superior order, both as to conven- ience and elegance; and to-day the temples dedicated to his- trionic art, in which the beauty and "chivalry" of San Fran- 150 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. cisco assemble to be charmed or repelled — as the case may be — are not anywhere surpassed. After the legitimate play had been established, there were no peculiarly marked epochs or periods in the history of the stage in San Francisco; but everything moved along in the proper channel, succeeding stars striving to excel preceding, and each new theatre being an improvement upon those that had previously existed, a higher excellence being aimed at by actors, managers and builders. We therefore have stepped over the period intervening between the embryotic and present. Among the theatres that in this interim flourished or failed, but that are now known only as of the past, were the "Union," "Eureka," "Olympic," "San Francisco," "Lyceum," second "Metropolitan," and second "American." The local dramatic talent of to-day is superior. Few cities in the United States are equally favored in this respect. This is perhaps due to public discrimination; for there is no city where the general public is more fault-finding with their actors and actresses than San Francisco. Yet the public is also appreciative and generous. It is therefore natural for talent to seek recognition in such a community, and, having sought and found, to remain and enjoy the benefits resulting. THE CALIFORNIA. THEATRE. The California is the oldest theatre in the city devoted to legitimate drama. Of the numerous others that have from time to time ranked first in popular favor, none remain, they having been converted to other use, torn down, or destroyed by fire. The California was built in 1869, at a cost of $125,- 000, and was the largest and most commodious theatre until the erection of Wade's Opera House, recently opened. It was built by a stock company, and under the management of Mr. John McCullough has proved a profitable investment. Since the opening night, it has been the favorite resort for amusement seekers, and no doubt will long continue to attract its old pat- rons, even though it has superior rivals. Bush Street, near Kearny, has so long been the gathering place of the theatre goers. that, although there maybe dazzling attractions at the new play houses, they will continue to travel the familial path for some time to come, from sheer force of habit. Did the foot-prints of those who, in the diversity of their THEATHES. 151 impersonations, tread the stage with the firm steps of a con- queror, stamp upon it in an ecstacy of assumed rage, move with the measured pace of burdened melancholy, or with the elastic step of boundless joy, remain undisturbed, there would be seen upon the boards of the California the tracks of many dramatic and musical celebrities. JOHN McCULLOUGH. It is not unfrequently that the history of the lives of those who choose the stage as a profession is interspersed with ro- mantic ejrisodes. But with a majority of actors and actresses life has a reality that is oftener sad than sweet. What the public sees of them induces the belief that their life is a book of illuminations — the turning of each new leaf revealing a more brilliant picture. But what the public sees is the bright side — to which there is a darker. The theatre itself is emblematic ; io the audience, it is rich in ornaments, brilliant with the work of the artist ; the ceilings and walls, the curtains and scenery, glow in their warmth of colors, and are radiant w T ith beauty. But behind the scenes are unpainted timbers, bare walls, dusty canvas, and all is cheerless. John McCullough is a native of Ireland, born November 15, 1837. Ei;j father was a small farmer, and therefore John's only educational advantage was the county school, wdiich he attended quite regularly until he was fourteen } r ears old, when lie conceived the notion of coming to America. He left home and arrived in New York, having only enough money remain- ing to keep him two or three days. Without delay, he hast- ened to Philadelphia, where he hoped he might find some trace of an uncle who had formerly lived there, but from whom he had heard nothing for many years. Passing along the street one day, he saw a sign over a door, bearing his uncle's name, and a young man standing at the front, who resembled his father. Upon inquiry, lie was happily surprised, for it was really his uncle's place of business. His uncle was engaged in a fancy chair manufacturing busi- . and John was immediately transferred to the factory as nn apprentice — and, although it may appear .strange, it. was liere that the first spark of ambition for the stage, was enkin- dled in him. And this was how it came about : There was a young man by the name of Burke, a fellow 152 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. apprentice, who had a "wonderful fondness for stimulating- stomachics and Shakespeare. Often when in a hilarious mood, and during* the absence of his master, he would indulge in dramatic recitations, his favorite declamations being from Shakesj^eare's most tragic scenes; and if it were necessary to make his acting more forcible by illustration, John was his. chosen victim. He would often grasp him by the throat, hurl him upon a sofa, and stab him to death with a paint-brush,, asking him to be Julius Caesar, while he would play the part of Brutus and Mark Antony, by turns. This procedure was most astonishing to the young Hibernian, who was alike ig- norant of Caesar and Antony, and to whom Shakespeare was. only a queer-sounding word. Yet he enjoyed the business,, and susp'ected Burke to be a person of unusual importance. From this time, it was not long until John had extended his acquaintance among the stage-struck youths of the city, and by the son of a lager beer saloon-keeper was introduced into an amateur dramatic club. His great fondness for the drama was here developed, and by close application to dramatic studies, he made such progress in the new profession that he secured an engagement for a small weekly salary, at the Arch. Street Theatre. Two years elapsed, during which time he- had passed through the vicissitudes to which young actors are singularly subjected, when by accident he met and was intro- duced to Edwin Forrest, who had then won his great renown. He thought nothing of this meeting until, a few days after, Mr. Forrest spoke to him on the street. Forrest was pleased with him, and invited him to accom- pany him to Boston; and to release him from an engagement with Mrs. Garretson, at the Walnut Street Theatre, Mr. For- rest played gratuitously at that lady's benefit. McCuliough's salary was doubled, and he received much encouragement from Mr. Forrest. This recognition of his ability developed his greatest power, and no doubt changed his future career. In 18GG, he accompanied Mr. Forrest to San Francisco, where, at Maguire's Opera House, he supported him in the characters of Iago, Edgar, Pythias, Macduff, etc. Mr. Forrest being uncertain as to his future course in the East, McCul- lough decided to remain in California, and therefore continued at Maguire's. His first prominent part, after Mr. Forrest's- depart ure, was Richard III. He supported different stars that THEATRES. 153 came along, and in their absence took leading parts himself, being most successful in Bichelieu. When, in 1869, the California Theatre was opened, he and. Mr. Barrett became lessees. Mr. Barrett soon after retired, and Mr. McCullough became sole lessee, and with Mr. Barton Hill as " acting manager," has continued in that capacity ever since. Under Mr. McCullough's management, the California has- been very popular. Perhaps his greatest success as manager was the production of Monte Cristo, which, during its four weeks' run, yielded an aggregate sum of $30,000. The most successful local play that has been produced in the city is Solid Silver, written by Col. Barnes of this city, which was produced in the California by the stock company, the author taking a prominent character. As an actor, Mr. McCullough is a great favorite in Cali- fornia, and has gained universal applause in the principal cities of the United States. His Richelieu, which is his best- sustained character, is a fine study, and his Hamlet has been much admired, though his famous rivals in the latter role have gained so many merited laurels that the public will not accept any representation of that character that is not finished in every respect. Much of Mr. McCullough's success is due to the talented, stock company that has so ably supported him. In this par- ticular the California Theatre has been more fortunate than many of the larger theatres in Eastern cities. The San Fran- cisco public have also greatly encouraged home talent, and their verdict as to the merits of an actor has become to be accepted as pretty nearly correct. MAGUIRE'S OPERA HOUSE AND NEW THEATRE. k Thomas Maguire is the pioneer theatrical manager on the Pacific Coast. So man}* conquests has he made for the stage, under so many adverse and discouraging circumstances, that he is considered the " Napoleon of the Drama." He is a native of Ireland, and came to California at the time of the great " overland rush." He first became part owner of the Parker House, which stood on the ground now occupied by the City Hall. He had part of it converted into a theatre in 1850, which he named the Jenny Lind. On May 1th, 1851, 154: LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. the whole building was destroyed by tire, but was rebuilt at once, and the theatre opened as " Jenny Lind No. 2," on June 13th, and on the 22d, was again burned. A brick building was now constructed, and " Jenny Lind No. 3" was opened, on the 4th of October, 1851. This building yet stands, and is now used as the City Hall. The Jenny Lind dynasty, though supreme, was brief, the last successor of the line, having ceased to rule Aug. 15, 1852, at which time the city pur- chased the building for $200,000. Three months later, Mr. Maguire opened the San Francisco Hall, on Washington Street, above Montgomery; in May, 1853, changed the name to " San Francisco Theatre," and in November, 1856, christened it Maguire's Opera House. This building was torn down when Montgomery Avenue was opened. In May, 1864, Mr. Maguire had, at great expense, completed a new building, which he named Maguire's Academy of Music. This was opened to the public and continued as a place of amusement until 1867, when it was sold at auction and con- verted into stores. His loss on this venture was over $200,- 000. He has been connected, as lessee, with every theatre on the Coast outside of San Francisco. Many of the San Francisco theatres also have been under his management. He was owner and proprietor of the first, lessee of the second Metropolitan, and lessee of the first and second American; in 1872, he became lessee of the Alhambra, on Bush Street, now Maguire's New Theatre; and in the year following, he assumed control of Maguire's Opera House — both of which continue under his management. He is also present lessee of Baldwin's Academy of Music. Maguire's New Theatre is a very commodious building, capa- able of seating sixteen hundred people. The stage is conveni- ently arranged for all kinds of performances — the spectacular play of Black Crook having been creditably produced upon it. .] hiring the theatrical season, there is always good talent se- cured for this theatre, and the local company number among its members some able artists. Maguire's Opera House is of small capacity, though well arranged for its purpose. It is mostly devoted to minstrels of the higher grade, sometimes, however, giving a series of oper- THEATRES. 155 atic performances. It is well patronized, almost every person going occasionally, while many are regular patrons. WADE'S OPERA HOUSE AND ART GALLERY. In 1873, Dr. Thomas Wade, a successful dentist of San Francisco, conceived the idea of building an Opera House that would rival in size and elegance any building of its char- acter in the United States. The site chosen was on Mission Street, somewhat remote from any other places of amusement, though a central location in the city. It was projected under the name of the "Grand Opera House/' but as a compliment to its founder, was christened at its opening, Wade's Opera House. Considering the number of theatres and halls for amusement, and the comparatively small population of the city, this enter- prise was deemed by many as premature. For this apparently very good reason, the projector did not receive that encourage- ment that is generally extended to such worthy undertakings, and hence its history, from inception to completion, was not of uninterrupted progress. Owing to sudden reverses, Mr. Wade was compelled to organize a stock corporation or forego the prosecution of the work. This plan met with unexpected opposition, and work on the building was suspended for the greater part of a year. During this period of inactivity, Mr. Frederick W. Bert became the Doctor's coadjutor and lessee. The two, by dint of great perseverance and energy, succeeded in organizing a company, and the building was then speedily pushed to com- pletion. The Opera House was opened to the public on the evening of January 17th, 187G, and the spectacular play of Snowflake was produced, and continued with unabating success for four weeks. The production of this play, the scenic character of which was sufficient to test the capabilities of the stage, took the public by surprise, and at once placed Wade's Opera House in the first rank of popular places of amusement. Mr. M. J. McDonald, a cajutalist in the city, is president of the corporation. Much credit is due him for the material aid l>o extended to the association when the progress of the build- ing was so seriously impeded. The area covered by the Opera House is 110 x 21 o feet. There 156 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. are only two theatres that have a larger auditorium in the United States. It has a seating capacity of three thousand, but as many as four thousand persons have occupied it. The external architecture is Romanesque and Italian. The corni- ces are highly ornamented, and the balcony surmounting the wall is relieved by vases and small statuary. The central cor- ridor leading to the auditorium, terminates in a grand vesti- bule, 35 x 81 feet, opening through to a skylight above. In the centre of the vestibule is a beautiful crystal fountain, shower- ing cologne water from myriads of needle jets. The auditorium is divided into the orchestra or parquette, dress circle, balcony, family circle, and gallery; twenty-two mezzonine boxes, and twelve handsomely furnished proscenium boxes. The predominating color is light blue; the chairs, drapery, woodwork and frescoe, all showing this tint. When, brilliantly lighted, the effect is beautiful. Upon entering, the immense size of the auditorium is at once remarked. The lofty proscenium, flanked on either side by elegant private boxes in front, with tier above tier receding in the distance behind, are contemplated in silent admiration. The ceiling is arranged as a sounding board, and no seat is objectionable because of its remoteness from the stage. The old style roll-up ' ' drop " is supplanted by an artistically painted lift curtain, which draws' up bodily. The stage proper is eighty-seven feet deep by one hundred and six wide, and is formed of sections — all or any part of which can be removed in a few minutes. The flats are im- mense — the largest in use in the world, being twenty-four feet high. There is an excellent arrangement whereby the scenes can be either lifted to the top of the building or lowered into the basement, where they remain until required for use on the stage. The foot-lights are below the stage, and different col- ored globes are so arranged over them that any color of light desired can be thrown upon the scenes. These, with all the burners in the building, are lighted by electricity — the bat- teries, and the keys for lessening or increasing the volume of light being behind the scenes. Every improvement, of what- ever character, whether for the comfort and safety of the pat- rons, for ventilation, view, or stage machinery, has boon intro- duced, and Wade's Opera House, although in a city scarce thirty years old, and remote from the great centres of art, has no superior in the world. THEATRES. 157 The art gallery occupies the space over the entrance hall, and is 40x80 feet in dimensions. The ceiling is lofty, and ex- t' nding entirely around the walls is a light gallery, for conven- ie 1 1 ce in arranging the paintings. Opening into it are numerous offices, designed for artists' studios. This, by a system of corri- dors, can be connected with the theatre, and forms a most pleas- ant promenading hall for the visitors. Its walls will be adorned by paintings by local artists, and also some select pieces from European masters. Statuary also will be introduced. The furniture is elegant, and detracts not a whit from the general artistic surroundings. Mr. Fred. W. Bert, the lessee, is a son of E. G. Bert, for- merly a lessee of the old Metropolitan theatre, in San Fran- cisco. He was born in Harrisburg, Penn., is thirty -three years of age, and has been identified with histrionic art for many years. He has also had some journalistic experience, having been at one time connected with the Morning Call. The perseverance he manifested in the building of the Opera House is a sufficient guarantee that under his management the reputation it has gained will rather increase than diminish. OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. There are numerous halls for lectures, concerts, and all that class of entertainments, most of which are not arranged for theatrical performances. Piatt's Hall, on Montgomeiy Street, is an exception, having a tolerably well arranged stage- The Bella Union Theatre, on Kearny Street, near Washing- ton, in early days one of the famous melodeons, has recently been remodeled, and is now conducted in the style of the better class variety theatres. Under its present management, it has very greatly reformed as to the character of the company and the pieces played. Because of its former bad reputation, many respectable persons still persist in shunning it; but while it is true that among its patrons there are many rough and vicious characters, who from habit continue to frequent it, it is also a fact that good order is always preserved, and there is no indecent conduct permitted either upon the stage or in the audience. To those who have only attended the finer and more fash- ionable theatres, where stage scenery, actors' costumes, and the 158 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. toilets in the audience, all present the most brilliant and rich colors, a visit to the Bella Union would be entertaining. The audience is mostly composed of males, and coming as they do~ from all ranks of society, they make a picture as well worth an. evening's study as the plays that are enacted on the stage. There are perhaps two other theatres, not yet mentioned,, devoted to melo-drama, farce, low comedy, and all that class, of plays that respectable people would prefer not to be seen patronizing. There are melodeons, concert saloons, dance- cellars, and dives more numerous by far than society should tolerate, but because other cities that are older and (ought to be) wiser than San Francisco permit these pitfalls to stand open in their midst, society here points to them and says: " there's precedent, and ye see they shan't outdo us in anything — even in vice ! " — and so it is. Yet, in these most vicious places, there are sometimes found young actors an actresses that only force of circumstances could keep there — men and women as pure and free from sin as are the best sons and daughters in the land. There is to-day a young actress playing before the most refined audiences in the United States, and greeted with ap- plause wherever she goes, who spent her younger years before the most vulgar and debased audiences in San Francisco. She passed through the filth unstained. MARK TWAIN'S INNOCENCE (AT HOME). 159 XXIII. MARK TWAIN'S INNOCENCE (AT HOME). A LECTURE HE MEETS OPPOSITION OMINOUS PROTESTS DEFIANCE: TO ALL. A LECTURE. "VYT'ITH bis soul still pent up with the inspiration it, VV caught in his visit to Europe and the Holy Land, Mark Twain dropped down upon San Francisco, in 1868, and with a shocking disregard of public sentiment, determined ' o relieve himself by delivering a lecture. His characteristic "innocence" is manifest by the manner in which he so suc- cessfully attracted a "full house" to hear him. In originality his scheme ranks with that resorted to by Washington Irving to advertise his " History of New York." A few days previous to the evening appointed for the lec- ture, the following correspondence was printed and circulated through the city : HE MEETS OPPOSITION. San Francisco, June 30th. Mr. Mark Twain — Dear Sir: Hearing that you are about to sail for Ne-w York, iu the P. M. S. S. Company's steamer of the 6th July, to pub- lish a book, and learning with the deepest concern tiiat you propose to read a chapter or two of that book in public before you go, we take this method of expressing our cordial desire that you icill not. "We beg and implore you do not. There is a limit to human endurance. We are your personal friends. We have your Welfare at heart. We de- sire to see you prosper — and it is upon these accounts and upon these only, that we urge you to desist from the new atrocity you contemplate. Yours, truly, Wm. H. L.Barnes, Rear-Ad'l Thatcher, Samuel Williams, Gen. Mo- Cook, Geo. It. Barnes Noah Brooks, Maj. Gen. Halieck, J. B. Bowman. Loland Stanford, John McComb, Capt. Pease, A. 15.1.1- lam, John Skae, Abner barker, Dr. Brunei-, Lotus Cobn, Mer- cantile Library, T. J. Lamb, Prop'rs Occidental, Prop'rs Buss House, Prop'rs Cosmopolitan, Prop'rs 1 irk House, Michael Reese, Frank Soule, Dr. Shoib, Piorho, Bavenpie & Co., Asa D. Nudd, Ben. Truman, O. O. Eldridge, Board of Aldermen, Geo. Pen Johnson, Maj. Gen. Ord, Bret I bote, -1. W. Tucker, B. B. Swain, Ned Libs, Judge Lake, Joseph II. Jones, Col. Catlnrwood, Dr. McNulty, A. J Marsh, Sam. Piatt, Wm. 0. Ralston, Mayor McCoppin, E. B. Bail, B. L. Ogden, Thos. Cash, M. B. Cox, The Citizen Military, The Odd bellows, The Orphan Asylum, various Benevoli nt Societies, ( itizens on Foot and Horseback, and 1500 in the Steerage. 160 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. In the following reply, his "innocence" shows itself at the very beginning. Observe how he introduces it — " to the 1500 find others/' as if he had just read the communication from the public, and in the flush of the excitement it occasioned, rashly replied, addressing it to the final signature, it being the freshest in his mind : San Fbancisco, June 30th. To the 1500 and Otheks: It seems to me that your course is entirely "unprecedented. Heretofore, when lecturers, singers, actors, and other frauds, have said that they were about to leave town, you have always been the very first people to come out in a card beseeching them to hold on fur just one night more, and inflict just one more performance on the public — but as soon as I want to take a farewell benefit, you come after me with a card signed by the whole community and the Board of Aldermen, praying me not to do it. But it isn't of any use. You cannot move me from my fell purpose. I will torment the people if I want to. I have a better right to do it than these strange lecturers and orators, that come here from abroad. It only costs the public a dollar a piece, and, if they can't stand it, what do they stay here for? Am I to go away and let them have peace and quiet for a year and a half, arid then come back and only lecture them twice? What do you take me for? No, gentlemen, ask of me anything else, and I will do it cheerfully; but do not ask me not to afflict the people. I wish to tell them all I know about Venice. I wish to tell them about the City of the Sea — that most venerable, most brilliant, and proudest Republic the world has ever seen. I wish to hint at what it achieved in twelve hundred years, and what it cost in two hundred. I wish to furnish a deal of pleasant information, somewhat highly spiced, but still palatable, digestible, and eminently fitted for the intellectual stomach. My last lecture was not as fine as I thought it was, but I have submitted this discourse to several able critics, and they have pronounced it good. Now, therefore, why should I withhold it. Let me talk only just this once, and I will sail positively on the 6th July, and stay away until I return from China — two years. Yours, truly, Make Twain. OMINOUS PEOTESTS. San Fbancisco, June 30th. Mr. Mark Twain : Learning with profound regret that you have concluded to postpone your departure until the Gth July, and learning, also, with un- speakable grief, that you propose to read from your forthcoming book, or lecture again before you go, at the New Mercantile Library, we hasten to beg of you that you will not do it. Curb this spirit of lawless violence, and emigrate at once. Have the vessel's bill for your passage sent to us. We will pay it. Your friends, Pacific Board of Brokers, Wells, Fargo & Co., The Merchants' Exchange, Pacific Union Express Co., The Bank of California, Ladies' Co-operative Union, S. F. Olympic Club, Cal. Typographical Union. San Francisco. June HOth. Mr. Mark TwAiN—Dear Sir: Will yon start, now, without any unnec- I \ delay? Yours, truly, Tropin tors of the Alia, Bulletin, Tunes, Call, Examiner, Figaro, Spirit of the Times, l>i patch, News Letter. Golden City. Golden Era, Dramatic Chronicle, Police Gazette, The Californian, The Overland Monthly. MARK TWAIN'S INNOCENCE (AT HOME), 1G1 Sak Fbakcisco, June 30th. Mr. Mark Twain — Dear Sir: Do not delay your departure. You can come back and lecture another time. In the language oMhe jworldly — you can "cut and come again." Your friends, The Clergy. Mr. Mark Twain — Dear Sir: San Francisco, June 30th. You had better go. Yours, The Chief of Police. DEFIANCE TO ALL. The climax of his " innocence " is reached in confounding the preparation for celebrating the "fourth of July," with a public demonstration over himself. It was only ' c unavoidably delayed:" San Francisco, June 30th Gentlemen: Restrain your emotions; you observe that they cannot avail. Eead: NEW MERCANTILE LIBRARY, BUSH STREET. Thursday Evening, July 2, 1868. ONE NIGHT ONLY. FAREWELL LECTURE OF MARK TWAIN The Oldest of the Republics, VENICE, Past and Present. Box Office open Wednesday and Thursday. NO EXTRA CHARGE FOR RKSERVKD SEATS. ADMISSION, ONE DOLLAR. Doors open at 7. Orgies to commence at 8 p. m. JO~The public displays and ceremonies projected to give fitting eclat to this occasion, have been unavoidably delayed imiil the 4th, The lecture will be delivered certainly on the 2d, and the event will be celebrated two days afterward by a discharge of artillery on the 4ih, a procession of citizens, the reading of the Declaration of Iudep and by agorgeousdisplay of fire-works from Russian Hill in theevening, which I have ordered at my sole expense, the cost amounting to eighty thousand dollars. AT NEW MERCANTILE LIBRARY, BUSH ST. Thursday Evening July 2, 1808. It is hardly necessary to add that the lecture "was a success -financially. 11 16$ LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XXIV, CALIFORNIA'S HISTORIAN. HUBERT H. BANCROFT HIS GREAT LIBRARY; LITERARY WORKSHOP NATIVE RACES OF THE PACIFIC STATES AND FORTHCOMING WORKS. HUBERT H. BANCROFT. "TT"7~HEN any person engages in an enterprise of more than V V ordinary magnitude, no matter what the character of the undertaking may be, there are always those who feel it their duty to express a want of faith in it, and look upon such enterprise with distrust. This fact is more especially noted when the undertaking is of a literary or scientific nature, and it is not unfrequently decided by those who assume to interest themselves in it, to be visionary and chimerical; the expression of such sentiments has done more to retard true progress than. all other opposing causes combined. Not every one who has genius has the indomitable courage required to meet the dif- ficulties that advanced ideas must overcome before the world- will accept enlightenment. Those ideas may burn % n & consume the brain that conceived! tiiehl, yet the quickening breath of utterance is withheld be- cause of a knowledge that they will be but mock-phrases in the mouths of cynical critics. There is a graven history that gives proof of this; tributes that are recorded on imperishable monuments that mark the spot where dead men sleep, tell us of the genius that the living possessed, and how ambition was wrecked and intellect smothered by an inappreciative public. The history of those who have attained to distinction fur- nishes evidence of the struggles through which the road they had to travel led, ere they had climbed beyond the reach of those who were pulling them back. With all this before him, the man of genius must coolly contemplate the obstacles that loom up to view, and resolve that nothing, however antago- nistic or powerful, that stands in his path, shall prevent his advancement. California's historian. 1G3 Such, no doubt, was Mr. Bancroft's resolution, when lie entered upon his literary labors. The task he put upon him- self to perform was of such magnitude, and its proper ac- conrplishment suggested so many difficulties to be met, that perhaps none other than himself would have undertaken it; and certainly no other person, however fortunate his advan- tages, would have made such advances toward completeness. The Native Races of the Pacific States is the first fruit of Mr. Bancroft's industry. Although some might be surprised when informed that fifteen years were passed in its preparation, and be disposed to charge its author with indolence or inattention to purpose, when the vast amount of work, and the many dis- advantages under which that work had to be performed, are considered, the wonder is, how he did complete it in so short a time! Perhaps we can do no better than to embody herein the sketch of Mr. Bancroft, his literary promptings and pursuits, from the pen of his intimate and cultivated friend, J. Ross Browne: "Hubert H. Bancroft is a native of Ohio, de- scended from a New England family, and known, since 1856, in San Francisco, as an enterprising business man, senior partner in a book and publishing establishment. That he cherished an ambition to be known as a writer rather than as a publisher and seller of books, was suspected by few. Yet soon after starting in business, his tastes led him to commence, in a small way, the collection of printed matter relating to his adopted home. The taste once indulged gradually assumed strength; in ten years, his library had taken from commercial pursuits more than half his attention; during the past five, it has monopolized the whole. Exactly what were his ideas and aims during the first years of his new work we know not; though men were not wanting who sought his motive in some deep laid scheme for pecuniary gain. Thus do we grow up with a man, meet him habitually in the familiar intercourse of business or acquaintanceship, yet know him little or not at all. In too many cases, when some individual among us is of more than ordinary worth, the community is either utterly indifferent to his labors and aspirations, or after heartily re- pressing, hindering, and baffling his highest purposes of lifr, finds out his merit only when he is dead, and pays a per- age of its debt of honor and praise to his memory. 164 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. " Mr. Bancroft followed his favorite path with ever-increasing' ardor, but into his biographical zeal he seems to have infused a healthy leaven of business common-sense, for he successfully avoided the shoals of bibliomania. Perfect sets of Hulsius and De Bry, rare specimens from the press of celebrated printers, large paper editions and uncut leaves, ever held a secondaiy place in his affections. Nothing relating to his speciality was ever rejected; but the main object was always to secure books containing actual information, to form, as he expressed it, a ' working library/ " HIS LIBRARY. As previously stated, Mr. Bancroft began as long ago as 1859 the collection of books relating in any way to the history of the Western half of North America. It was apparently an accidental beginning; as the first selections were made when he was personally engaged in the routine work of classifying and arranging on their proper shelves, the books that were on sale in his store. At this time, perhaps, a dozen volumes bearing upon the history of California, were set apart for convenient reference — Mr. Bancroft possibly entertaining a remote idea that at some future time he might desire to consult them. Thus it was that the nucleus to one of the largest and most complete special libraries in the world, was formed. The Evening Bulletin, in an article reviewing Mr. Bancroft's work, thus speaks of his library : " Thereafter, when he came upon any book bearing on the same general subject, he placed it with the o'thers; and the col- lection was further increased, through the necessity which he was under of amassing various matter relative to the coast, to aid him in compiling the Pacific Year-book, which the firm was accustomed to issue. At length, finding that the process of collection possessed interest to him, he conceived the idea of forming a comprehensive library of books and manuscripts re- lating to the western half of North America. For the first two or three years, he sinrply took whatever came in his way when- ever he went into a book-store or paid a visit to the East. Without pursuing any system in the matter, and without mak- ing any special effort to obtain any particular books, he gradu- ally became more interested, and gave more and more time to the work. # 165 " After securing everything within his reach in America, in 18G2 he visited Europe, and made researches in London, Paris, Leipsic, and other of the large cities. Here he appointed agents and instructed them to purchase whatever offered. Re- turning home, he patiently awaited the increase of his collection, and diverted his attention somewhat from his business to the new occupation. In 1868, he found himself in possession of about five thousand volumes, including pamphlets. In this year he again visited Europe on the same errand, extending his researches to Madrid, Rome, Vienna, and other continental cities, and practically exhausting the floating literature of the kind he sought. In 1869, he became so absorbed in his labors that he turned over the active management of his business to his brother, and determined to devote the remainder of his life to enlarging his library and making available to the world its treasures. Just as he was becoming discouraged at the poor prospect of making further additions to his collection, the Biblioteca Imperial de Mejico of the unfortunate Emperor Maxi- milian, collected during a period of forty years, by Don Jose Maria Andrade, litterateur and publisher of the City of Mexico, was thrown upon the market. Mr. Bancroft telegraphed his London agent to proceed at once to Leipsic, and purchase as much as he could. The result was that although the agent did not exercise the discrimination he might, he obtained 3,000 additional volumes, many of them very rare and valuable, which he could not otherwise have obtained in years of search. " He had now developed a pretty thorough system of col- lecting; he knew what were standard works and what of them he still wanted, and lie was making special efforts to make up the deficiencies. Not long after the Maximilian sale, Puttick & Simpson, book auctioneers of London, made a large sale of Pacific Coast books, and Mr. Bancroft obtained about a thousand volumes therefrom. Acquisitions from the sale of other Euro- pean and American collections followed, and in 1869, ten years after he began his important task, he was the possessor of 16,000 volumes, bound and unbound, besides maps, manu- scripts, and extensive files of Pacific Coast journals. Since that date the collection has been still further enlarged. Ber- nard Quaritch, the famous London book collector, frequently had large lots of books come into his hands, catalogues of 166 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. which -were sent to Mr. Bancroft, who would mark what he wanted, and thus get maybe one hundred volumes at a time. The newspaper files have also been diligently kept up, and the accretions of ancient and contemporary manuscripts have been considerable. From New York, he obtained 600 volumes of Mexican works, collected by Porter C. Bliss, United States Consul at the city of Mexico. The most recent addition was the rich collection of the late E. G. Squier, of which Mr. Ban- croft purchased all that portion relating to his territory not already on his shelves. To-day the library numbers from eighteen to twenty thousand volumes, and, it is needless to say, is a most curious, valuable and interesting study. " Mr. Bancroft estimates the entire cost to him of the col- lection at not less than $60,000. A single volume was obtained at an expense of $400, and one set of United States Exploring Expedition cost $1,000. One large case contains books, many of them very small, which cost an average of $25 each. Splen- did though the library already is, lists of books wanted for the perfection of the collection are constantly made. ' ' The eighteen or twenty thousand volumes now in the library are written in English, Spanish, Latin, Italian, French, Ger- man, Dutch, Portuguese, and Bussian, besides many linguistic works in Aztec, Maya, and Quiche. In bulk, the English works constitute the largest part of the collection, but in number the Spanish probably stand at the head. The Latin books are some of them very valuable — written, however, in the degener- ate Latin in which the padres of the old missions were so fond of expressing their thoughts. The Italian works are more nu- merous than the Latin, and the French number more than either. There are a good many valuable German works, es- pecially collections of travels and voyages. There are also some rare old Dutch collections. The Portuguese and Bus- sian books are few in number. The Indian books are princi- pally grammars, dictionaries, and other linguistic works, num- bering some 250 in all, most of them issued under the authority of the Church, for the purpose of aiding to bring the natives within the ' true fold/ Besides the books, there are files of 500 Pacific Coast journals. "The Spanish portion of the collection is decidedly the most valuable of all. It is especially rich in the early standard works on America. A Spanish bibliography of this coast California's historian. 167 would date back to the year 153G, when there began to be struck off from the press, which Cortes brought over to assist in converting the natives, religious and linguistic pamphlets. Not a few of these rare brochures may be found in the Ban- croft Library. The Catholic missionaries were ardent chroni- clers, so that down to the eighteenth century Spanish histori- cal works in America take precedence over the English. And even during the present century valuable contributions to the world's literature have come from Mexican and Central Ameri- can scholars. In the Northwest, little printed matter was turned out, but manuscripts and mission archives make a pretty com- plete record of the Spanish rule. " The most valuable work relating to California is the Noticias de las Califomias, by Padre Francisco Palou. The manuscript was completed before 1792, and was deposited in the archives of the Franciscan College of San Fernando, under the direc- tion of which institution the tribes of California were con- verted. From a certified copy of these archives, the Noticias were printed in 1857, forming two volumes of the valuable se- ries of Bocumentos para la Historia de Mejico, a work published by the Mexican Government. " Palou's Relation Historica de la Vida y Apostolicas Tareas, del Venerable Padre Fray Junipero Serra, is also a rare and valuable work, in the original edition, which Mr. Bancroft has. Much material for history has been drawn from it. It covers very nearly the same period of California histoiy as the same au- thor's Noticias. " In most cases, the mission records of Southern California have been well preserved. Mr. Bancroft has made a personal examination of many of the archives, and with very happy re- sults. The annals of the Jesuit, Dominican, and Franciscan fathers are an important part of his library. Navcgacion Ex- peculativa y Practica, con la Explication de algunos instrumentos, etc., by the Admiral Don Jose Gonzales Cabrena Bueno, is a book now very rare, Mr. Bancroft's being the only copy on tins coast. Cabrillo's voyage along the coast — a manuscript pre- served in the archives in Seville, and published in Madrid in 1857 — is found in the collection. The best summary of Span- ish voyages on our coast, previous to 1702, is given by Don Mar- tin Fernandez de Navarrete. Don Pedro Fages, who came Jl ith the first missionary expedition to California, and was for some 168 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. time Commandante at Monterey, wrote in 1775 an exhaustive descriptive work on the country. It appears in print only in a French translation, under the title of Voyage en Calif omie, in the Nouvelles Annates de Voyages, Paris, 1844. Sir Francis Drake's voyages are not an unimportant feature of the Ban- croft collection. There is also the Adas de los Concilios Pro- vinciates Mexicanos, being the records of the first provincial councils of the Catholic Church in America, which contain let- ters under the hand and seal of Philip II. , as well as documents over the signatures of the most distinguished church digni- taries. 1 ' Many persons made valuable donations to the library. First in importance among these must be named General Mariano G. Vallejo's enormous collection of private and official letters, docu- ments, and papers of all kinds, which was presented to Mr. Ban- croft. The collection embraces between thirty and forty bound volumes of manuscripts. It was made with the express view of one day using it as the foundation of a history. There are here to be seen almost all the original records of the early Californian Government, the documents relating to the occu- pation of the country by the United States, and letters of busi- ness or friendship of the most interesting and curious charac- ter, from old distinguished natives, or of visitors to Califor- nia — such as from the General's nephew, Governor Alvarado, Don Juan Bandini, Colonel Jose Castro, the venerable Gover- nor Pio Pico, Sir Edward Belcher, the great English navigator, Mofras, the famous French traveler, Dr. McLaughlin, Gover- nor of the Hudson Bay Company, from various Russian Gov- ernors and Captains, from the English Sir George Simpson, and from an illimitable list of American civil, military, and na- val officers. General Vallejo is now engaged in dictating a connected history of California, under the title of Recuei'dos Hlstoricos y Personates, which he designs to present to Mi*. Bancroft, to assist him in his great work. The history will fill four or five large volumes, and will be based upon the Gener- al's own recollections, notes from his father's diary, and cor- respondence with old settlers on special points. General Vallejo is probably the best informed man living on the later Spanish history of California — his birth-place, and his home from childhood to past middle age. "Hugo Beid, an early pioneer of Southern California, con- California's historian. 169 tributed to the Los Angeles Star, in 1852, a series of papers on the Indians of Los Angeles county. This work is a standard authority on the aborigines of our State, and is a part of the Bancroft collection. "Probably a hundred different pioneers have, at the request of Mr. Bancroft, written out their recollections of the early days, some at considerable length, others in a brief form. "The Sefiora Bandini, of Los Angeles, widow of Don Juan Bandini, presented Mr. Bancroft with another valuable collec- tion, comprising bundles of original letters and documents of historical interest, together with an original, inedited, manu- script history of California, from the earliest known Spanish settlement up to 1845, written by Don Juan Bandini, assisted in parts of his work by the still extant sketches, notes, and jottings of his father, Don Jose Bandini. The collection is wholly Spanish, and has never been quoted or used in anyway. "Judge Benj. Hayes, of San Diego, since his arrival in the State, in 1850, devoted all his leisure time to collecting his- torical material concerning the southern counties; all this was cheerfully contributed to Mr. Bancroft's Library. Don Manuel Castro, of the famous Castro family, and the Pico family like- wise, contributed their documents. The family of Thos. O. Larkin, formerly U. S. Consul at Monterey, turned over the books of his Consulate." As the collection grew from year to year, the books were placed upon shelves without the slightest regard to order. In 1869, a librarian was appointed, who at once made a catalogue of the works which, for ordinaiy reference, was very conven- ient; but when Mr. Bancroft entered upon his great historical work, this arrangement proved of little or no avail, as it only led him into bewildering mazes of history and romance inter- mingled, and tended to thwart his purpose. He says himself: "I found that, like Tantalus, while up to my neck in water, I was dying of thirst. The facts which I required were so copi- ously diluted with trash, that to follow different subjects through this trackless sea of erudition, in the exhaustive man- ner I had proposed, with but one lifetime to devote to the work, was simply impracticable." A system of indexing was then tried and prosecuted for a year, but on account of the great work required to carry out the minute details of every subject, it was abandoned for a, 170 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. more general arrangement, which happily proved available, and to the utility of which the public are in a measure indebted lor the historical treasures Mr. Bancroft has unearthed from this mass of literary debris. From ten to twenty competent persons, under the superintendence of Mr. Henry L. Oak, the librarian, were constantly engaged on the work of indexing and cataloguing, for four or five years. So it has not been without difficulties innumerable, and remarkable perseverance, that this storehouse of valuable data has been collected and placed so that it will, in future, be practically useful. LITERARY WORKSHOP. Surrounded by walls adorned with ancient vellum, parch- ment, and wonderfully-wrought paper, as used by the literati of different nations in the unprogressive past, arranged side by side with the more embellished volumes of modern times; voluminous piles of faded manuscript, some written in almost unintelligible characters and dialect, others bearing the stamp of the polished and tidy student, who would no more permit a blot to remain upon his pages than a grammatical error; page upon page of personal reminiscences in this; a complete library of anecdote, voyages and travel in that; Spanish, French, Italian, Latin, English, German, Dutch, Portuguese, and Aztec manuscripts, clippings and books, arranged in perfect order, with reference to contents, the very outside ap- pearance of which furnishes a study for the observer; — sur- rounded by this motley array of profound lore, Mr. Bancroft daily pursues his researches, and daily commits to paper the products of his untiring labor. Mr. Bancroft is exceedingly industrious, frequently devot- ing ten and eleven hours a day to literary work. He generally writes standing, and therefore has a convenient desk about breast high, for the puipose. Beside the desk is a circular table, fitted with a revolving top, upon which he arranges his authorities, so that by simply turning the top around, any ref- erence volumes he may desire comes within easy reach. The character of his work necessitates much painstaking, and con- sequently the progress is slow. Yet his ever faithful applica- tion tells in bulk of matter, though it is feared it may prove disastrous to his health if continued. California's historian. 171 NATIVE RACES OF THE PACIFIC STATES, AND FORTHCOMING WORKS. The hearty appreciation manifested by literary critics and reviewers of his first work, together with the warm reception given it by the general public since its issue, is certainly very encouraging to the author, and is no doubt the source of much satisfaction to him. It is seldom that a first attempt at book-making, — especially wherein is embodied so much real labor as well as intelligent treatment, — meets with such uni- versal praise as has the Native Races of the Pacific States. The character of the work would perhaps of itself commend it to the student, even though its author had but tolerably per- formed his task; but if it did not bear the stamp of thorough- ness, and there was manifest any want of care as to the validity or authenticity, it would soon fall of its own weight. California, although perhaps too boastful of her superior natural advantages, has much good reason to honor her his- torian, for there is nothing that could add more lustre to her name than the undertaking upon which Mr. Bancroft is so earnestly engaged. It is pleasant, therefore, to know that the local press has almost unanimously congratulated the author, and bestowed praise upon his literary achievement. With fifteen assistants, Mr. Bancroft is now engaged in a literary task of much greater magnitude, importance, and inter- est than that already accomplished. He proposes to write a history of the Pacific States, from the first coming of Euro- peans down to date; paying special attention to his own State. His collection of original material for Californian history, can never be equaled by another collector; in fact, it leaves noth- ing to be desired . The plan on which he is carrying on his researches in this direction, would seem impracti cable by rea- son of its magnitude and minuteness of detail, were it not for the business-like methods employed, and the marvellous ra- pidity with which he has produced the five volumes of the former work. The annals of California are being recorded as those of other sections of our country never have been and never can be. Our State has had but a century of history; well-directed research will bring it all to light; it is a matter of pride to our people that such a work is being done so thor- oughly. 172 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XXV. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT. THE EFFICIENCY OF THE FORCE THE GOVERNMENT OF THE DEPART- MENT THE UNDERWRITERS' FIRE PATROL. THE EFFICIENCY OF THE FORCE. SAN FRANCISCO has an efficient and well-organized fire brigade. The force is composed of eleven steam-engine companies of twelve men each; five hose companies of nine men each, and three hook and ladder companies of fifteen men each — all fully equipped with the required apparatus. The en- gines, hose-carts and trucks are of the latest approved patterns. There are about two hundred and fifty men employed in the regular department, and more than fifty horses. The men are under strict and efficient discipline and have almost universally given satisfaction in the performance of their respective duties. They are hale sober fellows, capable of great endurance, cool- headed and brave. Notwithstanding the merciless element that they must battle with — a continual warfare with which it would seem would have a hardening effect upon their sympathies — they are withal warmhearted and sympathetic persons. The horses are the pets of the firemen (excepting perhaps the engineer, whose caresses are bestowed upon his symmetric engine). In purchasing them, much care is observed to secure good, trusty and docile animals. They are of the larger size, and are very strong and muscular. They are kept harnessed, ready at a moment's notice to step into the traces and be off for the scene of fire. It is really wonderful how well trained they become as they grow old in the service. When an alarm is sounded on the gong in the engine-house, the horses back furiously out of their stalls and take their places in front of the engine, are hooked up in a few seconds, and at the word of command from the driver, dash pell-mell into the street, heed- ing nothing in the way, knowing no master save the man who holds the reins. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT. 173 The men also are wonderfully expert in their respective duties. They may be lounging listlessly about, stupid and dull perhaps from the toil of the preceding night, but at the first tap of the alarm signal each is at his post, and the now smoking engine is parting the throng on the street before the inexperienced conrprehends the meaning of the alarm. The complete apparatus is kept in perfect order. An engine may emerge from a long conflict with the fire-fiend, grim and smoky, a seeming wreck of its former self; but a few hours will restore its lost brilliancy, and it stands ready to wage its inces- sant warfare. THE GOVERNMENT OF THE DEPARTMENT. The government of the Department is vested chiefly in the Chief Engineer. Yet he is subject to the dictation of the Board of Fire Commissioners. The office of Chief Engineer since the organization of the Eire Department has alternated between the present Chief (Scannell) and an old resident and experienced engineer — Frank Whitney, who is now Chief of the Safe Deposit Com- pany's private patrol. There have been some hot contests between these gentlemen, rendered especially conspicuous be- cause of the popularity of each. When the last Board of Fire Commissioners was installed, Mr. Whitney held the office of Chief. The incoming Board was, however, friendly to Mr. Scannell, and as soon as they were well warmed in their seats they proceeded to depose Mr. Whitney, and place in his stead Mr. Scannell. Many of the under officers and firemen were also displaced for favorites of the Board, and the consequence was, that there was consider- able feeling manifested by the friends of the rival Chiefs. Whitney contested the office in the courts, and a protracted trial resulted in the courts sustaining the action of the Board of Fire Commissioners. This contest is spoken of by those in- terested as the war between the "outs" and "ins." The discipline of the force is strict, requiring promptness and sobriety. Frequent drills are had, and everything pertaining to the respective duties of officers and men must be mastered. THE UNDERWRITERS' FIRE PATROL. This valuable accessory to the regular department force was organized the 24th of May, 1875. The intent of the organi- 174 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. ' zation is to check incipient fires, and if necessary, aid the reg- ular firemen at extensive conflagrations. The company consists of nine men, permanently employed. They have three fleet horses, and the same number of wagons. The wagons carry a number of small Babcock Extinguishers, together with buck- ets and other important apparatus, and have seats arranged for the firemen. They answer all "still" alarms, and are often enabled by their means of speedy transit and dexterity, to extinguish a fire before it gains sufficient headway to call out the regular Fire Department. This Patrol is supported by the various Insurance Compa- nies, and has done good service since its organization. During the first seven months of its existence, it saved $55,000 worth; of property. The building the patrols occupy is located at the corner of Ecker and Stevenson Streets. It is comfortably fitted up for the occupants — having also a billiard table for the amusement of the members. Capt. Eussell White, of Boston, is the Superintendent. The Fire Alarm and Police Telegraph is very complete in its working. Notwithstanding the Fire Department is maintained at an annual expense of nearly $250,000, the protection it affords to property as well as life, is a full recompense for the expendi- ture. STREET RAILROADS. 175 XXVI. STREET MAILBOADS. THE BENEFITS OF STREET RAILWAYS EXTENT OF THE BUSINESS — CLAY" STREET HILL RAILROAD ABUSES — QUERY, THE BENEFITS OF STREET RAILWAYS. THE rapidity with which the suburban parts of San Fran- cisco have been settled has induced the various street rail- road companies to extend their main lines, build branch roads, and increase their rolling-stock and operating force to an extent that gives San Francisco a convenient, easy and rapid means of street locomotion that the residents of few cities enjoy. On the other hand, the building of street railroads through sparsely populated suburbs has exercised a potent influence toward bringing into such districts more settlers. The numerous roads that stretch out in every direction through the city have leveled the sand-dunes, reclaimed the marshes, filled up the gulches, and instead of a desolate and barren waste that was„ there have sprung up blocks and streets of comely residences, the homes cf thrifty and industrious citizens. There is no city whose jmblic conveyances are more numer- ously patronized. Nature is in league with the hackmen and railroad companies. In summer she drives the pedestrian into the horse-car or hack, to escape the tempestuous gale that heralds its coming by billows and clouds of sand and dust that come rolling down the highways. In winter they fly to the- street-car for shelter, to escape the drenching rain that comes. in torrents flooding sidewalk and street. The street-car is the poor man's friend, as it enables him to secure a comfortable and roomy home for his family, with the advantage of sunshine and pure air, and yet reside not too» remote from his work. Its benefits are apparent and appre- ciated by the citizens of San Francisco. 176 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. EXTENT OF THE BUSINESS. In San Francisco there are eight street railroad companies. These employ eight hundred men, and about fifteen hundred horses are required for service. There aper in the city, at the time, was issued first, August 27, 1849, published by Messrs. Falk- ner andLeland, and continued until in one of the Great Fires of 1851, it expired in a blast of flame. Of the score of jour- nals in those early days, none, except the Alia, exists. It passed through many changes, and into the hands of various proprietors, with but indifferent success, until a three-fourth interest in it was purchased by and passed into the hands of Mr. Frederick MacCrellish, in whose possession, in com- pany with Mr. Win. A. Woodward, it has ever since remained. "Soon after this last change of proprietorship, came the ex- citements leading to the organization of the Vigilance Com- mittee, called into existence by the unbridled license and rascality of a portion of the people, and which the authorities and courts had failed properly to restrain and punish; and on that occasion, when the city was like a seething volcano, excited by a murderous attack upon Mr. James King of William, the Alia struck the chord which vibrated in unison with public sentiment, and its fortunes were at once assured. "It has never been sensational, seldom personal, but always a journal which the parent, of however scrupulous taste, could risk putting into the hands of wife or daughter, assured that nothing therein could offend them. Its proprietors have thrown the influence of their journal in favor of progress and civili- zation. Improvements in receiving and transmitting news they may justly claim as having been among the first and most libe- ral in inaugurating. They chiefly induced the organization of the celebrated 'Pony Express, 5 paying $1,000 per month for 192 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. its support. The first telegraph owed, if not its conception, ,at least its construction towards the Southern end of the State, .to meet the overland stage, to the Alta's proprietors." Mr. Frank Soule is yet to be found in the editorial rooms of the Alta, and although he has grown grey in the service of "California's veteran journal, 5 ' like that journal, he yet retains a youthful vigor, which age has only matured. In politics, the Alta is republican; yet its interest in party is not manifest in passionate appeals or bitter invectives. BULLETIN AND CALL. In the later part of 1855, immediately following the finan- cial crash of that year, that proved so disatrous to San Fran- cisco, James King of William associated in business with Mr. 'C. O. Gerberding, and they began the publication of the evening Bulletin. Mr. Gerberding was an accomplished book- keeper, a man of excellent personal address, though possess- ing small means. Mr. King had just emerged from the wreck of his banking house, a bankrupt, yet possessing what is of more value than money — sound principles and sterling sense. .Neither of these gentlemen were journalists, but both were well acquainted with the corrupt practices of the city officials, and knew the necessity of official and social reform. Mr. King assumed editorial control, and to Mr. Gerberding was- assigned the business management of the paper. A certain interest was transferred to Messrs. Whitton, Towne & Co., printers, in consideration of which they were to do the printing. Mr. King, in his editorials, at once attacked the vicious and criminal classes, not recognizing the shield of wealth or posi- tion that many of them interposed, but exposing all manner of rascality and villainy, no matter what the rank or circum- stances of the guilty. This excited resentful feelings in the evil-doers and their sympathizers, but called forth words of -encouragement and offers of aid from those who were disposed to give honesty and integrity the preference. It is wonderful how stinging and penetrating were Mr. King's satirical attacks! His inexperience as a writer was manifest in every article he wrote, but his words were blunt and to the point, and it was this very simplicity — his "street- i;ilk style" — that sent the arrow so directly to the mark. Wrought up to an ecstacy of rage, by an attack upon his THE PRESS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 193 character by Mr. King, one Casey, an ex-convict of Sing Sing, who, by ballot-box stuffing and bribery, had been placed in the board of supervisors, — shot Mr. King down in the street, from the effect of which he died in a few days. This was the immediate cause of the forming of the Vigil- ance Committee of '56. During their rule, the Bulletin advo- cated a moderate course, and although it was commended for this by the cool and law-loving citizens, it did not receive the hearty support that was given to another j carnal (the Alta) that unreservedly urged and supported the action of the Vigi- lantes. Mr. Thos. S. King, a brother of James, who had rendered him much financial assistance during his editorship, next took editorial charge, and the Bulletin continued prospering. Not long afterwards, Mr. J. W. Simonton secured a half interest in the journal, and in 1859, Mr. Gerberding sold half of his interest to Mr. G. K. Fitch, at which time, also, a two-six- teenth interest was transferred to each of three old and faith- ful employees — Mr. James Nesbit, Dr. F. Tuthill, and Julian Bartlett, — Mr. Thos. S. King in the meantime retiring. In 1861, Mr. Gerberding's bad health caused him to sell out, the remaining partners becoming purchasers. Following shortly, Mr. Loring Pickering bought an interest of Mr. Fitch, and in 1869, seven years later, three of the partners — Messrs. Nesbit, Tuthill, and Bartlett — having been removed by death, the firm was composed of Messrs. Simonton, Fitch, and Pick- ering, their interests equalized; and the proprietorship of the Bulletin has continued thus to the present time. In politics, the Bulletin claims to be independent, though it evidently inclines to the republican party. It has the largest circulation of the evening newspapers. Its editorial corps is very able, numbering on its staff, journalists whose literary attainments have given them some favorable recognition. The resident proprietors, Messrs. Fitch and Pickering, give per- sonal direction in the editorial departments. The indignation excited at the course of the Bulletin, just previous to and during the suspension of the Bank of Cali- fornia, in August, 1875, which was also immediately preceding the general State election — resulted in the temporary with- drawal of patronage from it, amounting in the aggregate to some five hundred regular subscribers, and two and a half 13 194 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. columns of advertising. The cause of public displeasure at that time was the editorial articles that appeared in the Bulletin reflecting discredit upon the character of Wm. C. Kalston, the bank's president, for -whom the people entertained an almost reverential devotion because of the generous aid he had from time to time extended to various enterprises, both public and private. There is little doubt but that injustice was done him by this journal, and had the future fate of Mr. Kalston been fore- shadowed, it is probable that the attack would not have been made. It is, however, more reasonable to attribute this action to a too strong desire to effect certain political results than to- gratify a feeling of malice or personal dislike. Mr. Fitch, who is perhaps the master mind on the Bulletin,, is a printer and journalist by "birth" and profession; having been engaged in various capacities in newspaper and printing offices from early boyhood. In 1848, he was engaged in a small way in a job printing office in New Orleans. But when time recorded those magic numbers, " '49," he was seized with the prevailing epidemic, sold out his interest for one thousand dollars, and started for California. However, before leaving, he purchased the type, press, forms, leads, rules, sticks, and other apparatus so necessary in a newspaper office, and shipped them for the same destina- tion. He even bought an ample supply of glue to use in making rollers, and also a quantity of printing paper — thinking, very correctly, too, that such commodities would not be found among the luggage of those whose only ambition was to search for gold. As a sort of recreation, and prompted, no doubt, by a speculative notion, he tarried for a few weeks at Panama, during which brief time he published the Panama Star. Disposing of this for a profit of one hundred and fifty dol- lars, he continued his journey to California. In March, 1850, he started the Sacramento Transcript, at Sacramento. This he conducted for two years, when it was merged into the Times and Transcript, and removed to San Francisco. Meantime, Mr. Pickering, a journalist from St. Louis, had joined him in the enterprise. The latter publica- tion was continued two years, under their management, after which their attention was directed to the Bulletin. THE PRESS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 195 During the Bulletin's career there have been some very •worthy and talented persons connected with it. Three of the gentlemen previously mentioned in this sketch, Messrs. Nesbit, Tuthill, and Julian Bartlett, are spoken of as persons of great worth, possessing most excellent qualities, and endowed with more than ordinary literary ability. Mr. Tuthill left behind him a history of California, which, considering his inexperi- ence in historical writing, and also the fact that his was a pioneer work, bears evidence that under more favorable cir- cumstances he would have attained an enviable reputation as an historian. As it is, he has done much to remove the rub- bish that historical writers have to go through, and has gath- ered the material from which those who come after may build up a lasting superstructure. Mr. Ben. P. Avery, whose recent death brought sorrow to so many hearts, served long and well in an editorial capacity on the Bulletin. Messrs. William Bartlett and Samuel "Wil- liams, both of whose writings have been admired by the public, have been engaged on the Bulletin for the last ten years. The Call is a live morning daily, owned and conducted by the proprietors of the Bulletin. The first number of the Call appeared December 1, 1856, under the management of the "Associated Practical Printers." It gradually grew in size and public favor, and in 1869 was transferred to the proprie- torship of a Mr. Foster. Shortly after this time, Mr. Foster died, and the paper was continued under the control of its present proprietors. The Call is probably the most profitable daily on the Pacific Coast. It is very popular with the masses, and is much patron- ized by small advertisers. Column after column of short notices, under the various classifications of "Help Wanted, " "Situations Wanted," "Rooms to Let," "Personals," "Lost," "Found," "Business Opportunities," appear from day to day, as well as many larger and display advertisements. Its local news items are generally lengthened out to a degree that suits the morbid imaginations of its readers, and have a smack of sensation, that tends to sate the hungry cravings of the masses. The editorials are up to the par standard, and thus it compensates its thinking readers for the annoyance that the light paragraphs and "breezy" sketches might occasion them. It claims a circulation of 31,000. In politics, it is independent. 196 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. THE EXAMINER. The daily evening Examiner is the legitimate offspring of the Democratic Press, which was started October 20, 1863, and suspended in 1865. The first number of the Examiner was issued June 12, 1865, William S. Moss, publisher, and B. F. "Washington, editor. The Examiner is the leading Democratic journal in the State, and is therefore well supported by its party constituents. It is characterized for the chasteness of its contents — nothing whatever of a sensational nature being permitted in its col- umns. For this reason (which alone ought to commend it to public favor and patronage), it is not much sought after by the public as a dispenser of local gossip; and hence its circulation is limited, when compared with some of the other leading- dailies. Its proprietors are Wm. S. Moss, Hon. Phil. A. Roach, and George Pen Johnston — the latter presiding over the edito- rial department. Mr. Roach has attained considerable local celebrit} r by reason of his rollicking good humor and innocent pleasantries, which are perhaps intensified by the venerable appearance his pre- mature white locks fix upon him. He is the butt of many a society joke, because he has actually lived and moved among the San Francisco beau monde for so many years, without having either got married or lost his heart. He is a con- firmed bachelor, and at present represents the democracy of San Francisco in the State Legislature. THE EVENING POST. Although but a little more than four years in existence, the Post ranks among the leading dailies in the city. It was intro- duced to the public on December 4th, 1871, under the proprie- torship of Messrs. Hinton, Rapp & Co. , with Mr. Henry George, as editor. As an organ of the Democratic party, its career was marked by prosperity until 1872, when it was purchased by a Mr. Thompson, formerly of the Chicago Inter-Ocean and Cincin- nati Commercial, under whose management it languished. After a period of three months, it was transferred to Mr. Hin- ton, who succeeded in establishing it on a more stanch basis by forming a joint stock company, Mr. George again assuming •rial charge. THE PRESS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 197 This arrangement continued until December, 1875, when Hon. John P. Jones, having purchased a controlling interest in the stock, Messrs. George and Hinton were succeeded by- Mr. J. T. Goodman, who took the management of both the editorial and business departments. The Post was first issued as a one cent paper, but the favor- able reception it met induced the publishers to enlarge its size, which also necessitated an increased price. It was therefore advanced to ten cents per week, but subsequent enlargements have increased the price to twelve and a half cents, at which rate it is now furnished to subscribers. The Post is the only journal on the coast that uses the Bul- lock press. The Hoe press was for a long time considered the "highest reach of mechanical skill," as applied to the art of printing ; but since the invention of the Bullock — the capacity of which is nearly double that of the Hoe — it has fallen into the second rank, and is fast becoming supplanted by the Bul- lock, in the larger newspaper establishments. The Bullock prints on both sides at once ; requires but one feeder, and is more economically operated. It is claimed that the Bullock can print as high a number as 30,000 an hour; but in practical service it averages about 15,000 copies. This press was pro- cured at a cost of $25,000. During the exciting times of the " "Womens' Crusade " against whiskey and saloons — or, as it is more familiarly known in San Francisco, "Local Option" — the Post was the only daily that earnestly espoused the cause of the "oppressed sex;" which action, though perhaps highly commendable, was proven to be unpopular in California. In matters of news, the Post is considered reliable. Its locals are often rather highly spiced — tending to sensational — but its leading editorials are earnest and pointed, and graceful in style. The editor in chief, Mr. Goodman, was for a considerable time connected with the Nevada Enterprise, and is the gentleman who first inducted Mark Twain into the mysteries of journal- ism. Twain, in his Boughing It, acknowledges the kindness with which his first efforts at reporting were received by Mr. Goodman, in his peculiarly amusing style. The managing edi- tors are S. Seabough and L. E. Crane. The Saturday evening edition of the Post is generally a double sheet, and might be called the literary issue of the paper — being devoted to light, interesting topics, containing also a story or two of sonic merit. 103 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. Since Mr. Goodman took the -management, the politics of the Post have undergone an abrupt change — it being now a thor- ough republican journal. THE STOCK REPORT. The Stock Report, devoted more particularly to the mining stock transactions of California Street, was established in 1863, as a sort of weekly bulletin of the stock market. As the min- ing industry on the coast increased, an increase in stock trans- actions naturally followed, and it was found that a daily issue of the Stock Report was demanded. It is really a mining and broker's journal, and, as such, represents the most important industry of the coast, as well as the greatest financial interests in San Francisco. Yet it has its departments devoted to gen- eral news, and in its editorials important topics are dis- cussed. It contains elaborate and instructive tables of stock sales, lists of assessments, dividends, and letters from the principal mines and mining districts on the coast. Mr. William Bunker, formerly on the Evening Bulletin, in 1875, undertook its management, since which time it has ex- hibited marked improvement in all its departments. He, in connection with Mr. P. H. McGowan, have full control, and under their supervision the Stock Report will no doubt continue to be the representative organ of the great mining resources of the Pacific States, and the mining stock interests, of which it is the official exponent. THE STOCK EXCHANGE. This is another daily stock paper, reliable in its quotations and tables relative to the mining stock market. It also gives a summary of important general news, and publishes the latest advices by telegraph and correspondents, from the vari- ous mines on the coast. It is, apparently, a profitable property, as it enjoys a good circulation, and its advertising columns are well patronized. FIGARO. The Figaro is a small theatrical sheet, published daily. It is more devoted to advertising than to giving theatrical news. It is distributed free at the theatres, and is only valuable as a programme of the plays. THE PRESS OF SAX FRANCISCO. 199 DAILIES AND WEEKLIES IN FOREIGN LANGUAGES. Of the dailies published in foreign languages, the German enjoy the most extended circulation. They are all, however, well made up, and confine themselves to the legitimate field of journalism. The Daily Demokrat, German, has a circulation of 5,000. It is published by Messrs Fr. Hess & Co. , who also publish a weekly sheet called the Staats Zeitung. These are independent in politics. The Abend Post, German, also independent, has a circulation of 2,200, with a weekly edition of 1,700. D. Klintworth & Co. are the publishers. Courrier de San Francisco is the French publication, issued daily and weekly, with a respective circulation of 1,000 and 800. La Voz de Nuevo Mando, Spanish, has a circulation of 1,000, and is issued semi-weekly. The California Posten, a weekly Scandinavian journal, with a circulation of 950. The Italian weekly, La Voce del Popolo, has 2,500 circula- tion. There is also a Spanish semi-weekly, La Sociedad, and a French weekly, L\ Petit f Journal, devoted more particularly to society gossip than to general news. WEEKLIES. Besides the weekly editions issued from the leading daily offices, there are none devoted to politics and general news. A weekly paper now-a-days is issued only for the benefit of those who live in the country, too remote from the railroads and thickly populated districts to enjoy the benefits of the dailies; or in the interest of some special industry, as agri- culture and mining; the arts, sciences, and literature; or opinions and beliefs, none of which require that vigilant at- tention from the press as do business and political subjects. Among the commercial weekly journals, the Journal of Com- merce is the oldest. It is devoted to general commercial matters on the Coast, and has a larger circulation than an} r of its competitors. The weekly Stock Report circulates largely in the mining towns. It contains a resume of the stock transactions for the 200 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. week, list of assessments, etc., and for this reason is valuable to those who deal in stocks. The Pacific Grocer was started as an anti-Grange paper. It has been published for about a year, and is no doubt of value to interior dealers. The market reports it contains are very complete, and its business editorials are instructive. There are two agricultural weeklies, the Pacific Rural Press and the California Farmer. The former has a circulation of 8000, and is an invaluable journal to all engaged in any o£ the agricultural pursuits. It is ably edited, and each number contains some appropriate illustrations. It is a practical Cali- fornia farm journal. The Farmer, although an old estab- lished publication, seems not to have kept pace with the agri- cultural development of the State. It is too much given to theorizing — a thing that the California farmer, of all others, dare not trust. The Mining and Scientific Press is modeled after the Scientific American of New York. In addition to scientific and me- chanical matters, to which the latter confines itself, the Press- has the great mineral resources of the Pacific Coast to draw from, with the innumerable scientific experiments that are made in the process of developing them. It has a circulation of 4000. The News Letter and California Advertiser is published weekly in a variety of interests, both negative and positive. It is at once the enemy and frieudof everybody; but, above all else, it heartily abominates "quackery," and under a motto of " skull and bones ' ' keeps a standing list of all persons who represent themselves as physicians, but are unable to show their di- plomas. It is much patronized as an advertising medium, and is doubtless the most profitable advertising property in the city. San Francisco has been unfortunate in literary journals. The extra and Sunday editions of the large dailies are mostly devoted to literary matter, and it is therefore difficult to establish a weekly literary journal that can compete with them and be self-sustaining. The Golden Era has a precarious existence, though its title might suggest that its career was more independent. "When the golden era in literature shall have conic, and merit alone, in literary journals, shall sustain i li< m, it is not improbable that the Golden Era will cease to exist. THE PRESS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 201 Illustrated papers have also been unfortunate. Frequent attempts have been made to establish them, but with little success. The Spirit of the Times and Underwriters' Journal — a paper devoted to insurance matters and sporting — is a vigorous weekly, and frequentty contains illustrations. The "Centen- nial" issue of this weekly, published on July 4, 1876, was a remarkable newspaper production. It contained forty pages, was profusely illustrated — containing many original engrav- ings, executed expressly for the number, at great expense. There were portraits of prominent Californians, numerous- public buildings and private blocks, cuts of blooded stock, and many views of notable California natural scenery. The illustrations, together with the many columns of carefully pre- pared reading matter, much of which was historical and statis- tical, would give to those personally unacquainted with Cali- fornia a good idea of the progress the State has made since its occupancy by Americans. A large number of copies of this edition was forwarded to Philadelphia, to be circulated among the visitors to the Centennial Exhibition. An abortive comic weekly subsists on the credulity of the illiterate, with the somewhat jocular title of Jolly Giant. Its great hobby, both in cartoons and reading matter, is to annoy the Roman clergy. It is needless to say, however, that in this- direction its efforts are generally futile. The religious press in California is by many entirely lost sight of; and with those who patronize and sustain it, it is apparently assigned to a secondary place. Whether it be the worldliness of the people, or a want of ability in the religious journals that occasions this, is difficult to answer. An equal division of the charge between the two would perhaps approxi- mate the fact. Money is the god, and the art of getting it is- the religion of a majority of San Franciscans. Hence, the press has but little chance of victory, w T hen mammon worship is epidemic. But the religious press of California is composed of secta- rian journals that are more or less dogmatic. This, perhaps, accounts for the indifference of many. There are journals de- voted to each of the following sects: Methodist, Hebrew, Pres- byterian, Roman Catholic, Congregational, Baptist, and Epis- copal ; but there is no journal whose sectarian belief is name- 202 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. less, and whose creed is simply, "Christ Jesus, the Saviour of all men; believe on Him, and have eternal life." Sectarian, like party journalism, is fast becoming unpopular. Two weeklies, the New Age and the Pacific Odd Fellow, are published in the interest of Odd Fellowship, and this com- pletes the enumeration. There are other publications of more or less importance, that have not been mentioned in these pages, but the leading and representative journals that have been noticed will be sufficient to impress the reader with an idea of the extent and importance of journalism in San Fran- cisco. GAMBLING. 203 XXIX. GAMBLING. THE FIRST "GAME OF CHANCE " IN CALIFORNIA GAMBLING IN SAN FRANCISCO — GAMBLING HOUSES. THE FIRST " GAME OF CHANCE " IN CALIFORNIA. CALIFOKNIANS are a "fast" people. Until a few years ago, they gloried in this title. It was their ambition to lead fast lives, and thereby win a disreputable popularity. To ignore the common usages of society, treat with contempt any show of refinement, to frown upon the encroachments of civ- ilization, and to lead a reckless, dare-devil life, was the mark of the old California gentleman. Any personal characteristics, typical of the life that circumstances forced upon the old pio- neers, whether of habit, manner, language or dress, was for a long time considered an enviable acquirement. It was a sort of badge of honor, and to this day an occasional person is met who affects these accomplishments, thinking, no doubt, that there are still some remaining who have a "weak fondness" for anything that awakens memories of "them good old times uv '49." But we cannot condemn them for their reckless disposition. It would be unjust to the brave young men of California's golden days — old men now, the few remaining — to speak of them otherwise than with respect. They passed through or- deals that "tried men's souls;" they lived lives of hardship — sacrificing all the comforts, both physical and intellectual, of civilization — pioneering the way for future generations to fol- low in and enjoy the luxuries that come after. Yet they did this unwittingly; few among the early gold- hunters on these shores anticipated the greatness that fol- lowed so speedily in their tracks. They fulfilled their destinies because of selfish promptings. They were after gold, and nothing less attractive than gold would have cleared the way for civilization. 204 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. They were playing at a chance game; some won golden ingots, and some — won poverty and death. They were all gamblers; they had heard that the "stake '* was here to be won, and they took a "hand" and "played." But it was not skill in those days that carried off the prize; sheer luck gave victory. "At Sutter Creek, if the dirt don't pay, We can strike our tents most any day." The earth was the lottery, their picks and shovels the tickets. So with them the very journey hither was a gambling venture, and the same disposition to "chance it" prevails to a wonder- ful extent among those for whom they led the way. GAMBLING- IN SAN FRANCISCO. Gambling is a mania in San Francisco. It is not neces- sary that there should be cards, faro checks, or any of the various implements commonly used in games of chance, to constitute real gambling. The ordinary "outside" stock ope- rator stakes his money in as uncertain ventures as he who stacks his gold on the green cloth. And, too, there is the same "skinning" and "hogging" practised on the unwary speculator in mining stocks, as there is in the luxuriously fur- nished gambling hall. Baltimore Consolidated and fickle Lady Bryan will fleece the purchaser as quick as a deal in "five- ticket racket." The "ropers" and "cappers" who haunt the "tiger's lair," are not more numerous than the "bulls" and "bears" on California Street. The difference is, that the one is legitimate and respectable, while the other is criminal and publicly condemned. It is very like the Chinaman expressed it, when remonstrated with for his fondness for the "tan" game: "I heap sabee! he alee samee Melican man's stockee — sometime belly good, by'm-by he catchee me." Pool selling and buying on horse races is a very speculative game, and is, withal, highly respectable and exceedingly pop- ular. The speed of the horse is in reality a secondary con- sideration with most of the sporting class. The different branches of commercial traffic are also like so many lotteries of more or less importance, in which some win large amounts, while others are fleeced. In fact, we might exclaim with the cynic, that life itself is only a game of chance, in which we win and lose by turns, but are certain that bankruptcy will ensue when Death deals out his checks. GAMBLING. 205 The law against gambling in San Francisco, is a farce. It is only a moral morsel that tastes well abroad, but at our own doors, the flavor is too rank to be palatable. Even John China- man, who is a favorite subject for special legislation, chuckles over his heaps of copper coin, that he has gathered from the gaming table, and reflects with evident satisfaction upon the disposition of the municipal authorities to joke. With one hundred and fifty Chinese gambling dens in the city, and perhaps a much larger number presided over by the Caucasian of different nationalities, and a law to strictly pro- hibit gambling, — with this combination harmoniously existing in a city no larger than San Francisco — this is an example of consistent inconsistency that seldom occurs more than once in a decade. GAMBLING HOUSES. There are not any real " first-class gambling houses," in San Francisco; no marble palaces furnished in costly elegance, where silver and gold plate, laden with the most expensive luxuries, are spread before the visitors. The law against gambling, is productive of economy to the gambler, in this, that it prevents an outlay of that kind. There are numerous gambling houses, however, where much elegance is maintained, and although costly dinners are not commonly set, the choicest brands of champagne and liquors, are liberally dispensed by courteous attendants. Faro is the popular game with the better class of gamblers, inasmuch as it is more seductive and fascinating than any other, and the manner of dealing is apparently fairer. The better class houses are the resort of the more wealthy sports, and are much patronized by the stock-brokers, pros- perous merchants, and persons engaged in all kinds of busi- ness that affords a moderately good supply of ready cash. At night, the gaming table supersedes the stock boards. Men crowd these gambling halls as intent upon speculation as when thronging the lobbies at the stock exchange rooms. They stake their money on a card with as much faith in a " lucky deal" as when eagerly clambering for shares in Ophir, The air of gentility that pervades any well-ordered gambling hall, is wonderfully soothing to a disturbed conscience. There is no boisterous conduct allowed, no uproarous hilarity or loud shouts of laughter, but quiet reigns, the silence being broken 206 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. only by the subdued tones of the men who manipulate the game — winner and loser, alike quietly, though with faces flushed from anxiety, submitting to the decrees of fate as seen turned out through the mystic atmosphere that hovers over the green covered table. Thousands of dollars change hands, and the game goes on as though nothing was involved of more importance than the t: cigars" or " drinks." There is sometimes, however, a wail of agony that goes up from these quiet retreats, when the fas- cinated victim has lost his last stake — which may have been the home of his family, the food of his innocent children, or his honor, — a wail of horror and woe that is piercing to the hardest heart. It is this cry that appeals to humanity, to civi- lization, and to the law, to save the fathers, sons and brothers of the land from ruin, by removing from our midst the tempta- tion that lures them on. What is yet sadder is the knowledge that some of the best citizens of the country, after risking and losing their all at the gambling table, have quietly left the room to die before morning, by their own hand. The low class gambling dens and houses, though the haunts of the degraded, vicious and criminal, are not more productive of evil than those where the refined and cultured congregate. The devil is never so dangerous as when he comes in the guise of a holy angel. In his most terrible aspect, we shun him from fear — we hide from him. So, with the low class gamb- ling places, where general disorder and riot prevails; many who would patronize them under more quiet and peaceful circum- stances are frightened from them by the terror they inspire. At these places, drunkenness, vice, and crime hold high car- nival. Not only robbery and assault are perpetrated, but life is endangered and often taken. Trickery and swindling of every character are practised, and the most hideous side of humanity there shows itself. On " Barbary Coast," these infamous dens are most numerous, yet they are scattered about through more respectable parts of the city. The profitable class of patrons at these places are lured into them by ropers. Those who make this business a profession seldom fail to induce their victim to go where they want him. They are, to all appearances, perfect gentlemen, and to decline their invitation to " take a stroll," after a friendly social con- versation, would be rude and show ill-breeding. They make GAMBLING. 207 capital out of the pride of decorum and gallantry that is gen- erally a marked characteristic of rural visitors to the city. Every fellow who visits the city — especially if he is an Ameri- can — thinks that "other country chaps maybe greeners, but as for me, I have seen enough of the dark ways and vain tricks of the world to know how to take care of myself; and that's what's the matter! They can't play me." The roper-in fully understands this personal vanity and encourages it, assuming ignorance of things he " would like to know," and suffering himself to be led, rather than to lead. These fellows, that know all and have seen all, are just the game the roper and capper delights in, and they generally succeed in bagging it. The evil results of gambling have been told, over and over again, until the reader who is well informed has grown weary of meeting the subject. As long as gambling houses are not sup- pressed, they will find patrons; hence it is evident that the shortest and quickest way to be rid of this evil influence, is to rid the country of the leaders in the profession. The most serious result is dishonesty — gambling with other people's money. If persisted in, it seldom fails to come to that. This accounts for the numerous cases of embezzlement by young men employed in positions of trust. .208 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO XXX. THE SUBJECTS OF THE CELESTIAL KINGDOM. THE MONGOLIAN'S HOME — HIS MIGRATION — INFLUENCE ON THE COUNTRY. THE MONGOLIAN'S HOME. BEYOND the might y Pacific, and forming its western shore, there is a land of beauty, strangely fertile, and occupied by hundreds of millions of strange people, whose civilization is peculiar, and was, in the remote past, strangely progressive. It is a remarkable country. Over four hundred million human beings dwell there, under the same government, controled by the same laws, and speaking the same language. They study ihe same literature, and possess a history of their own, that extends over a longer period than that of any other people. The inhabitants of this land form a nation whose existence dates back to the remotest period of antiquity; and this nation lias, during all these slow rolling centuries maintained a seclu- sion — an existence of and for itself — that renders it still more remarkable and peculiar. It has had a separate and inde- pendent growth from any other nation in the world, and stands alone in its government, religion, philosophy, manu- facturing industry, agriculture, literature, and its language. Its history gives proof that its civilization, when at its climax, was superior, and wonderfully progressive; but unlike the European nations, it has undergone a retrograde movement, during the last five centuries, and to-day has in it some of the offensive features of barbarism. Such is China, the home of that people whom Europeans have chosen to call heathens, because of their ignorance of the Christian religion. But, however heathenish the Chinese are, the race is char- acterized for its fondness of peace and domestic order, and for its great capabilities of organization and self-government. The people are thoroughly practical and unimaginative; sober, industrious, and deeply imbued with the mercantile spirit. THE SUBJECTS OF THE CELESTIAL KINGDOM. 209 They understand every principle of economy, and are patient under affliction and oppression, to a wonderful degree. But they are the slaves of custom, doing* everything by pre- cedent. There is little diversity of mind among them; so great is the desire of all to follow the rules laid down by their ancient philosophers that their thoughts and ambition run in the same well-worn groove. They look not to the future, in their aspirations, except as they hope to see there repeated the history of the past; hence they advance in nothing that tends to a higher civilization. They are wonderful retainers and perpetuators, but know not the art of discovery. Indeed, they are satisfied if they are only enabled to trace the foot- steps of their forefathers and follow the path they trod. Their most sacred duty is to reverence the aged wise, cherish the memory of the dead, and worship their disembodied spirits. The government of the Chinese Empire is autocratic. The emperor is absolute in the empire, the governor in the prov- ince, the magistrate in the district. The system of govern- ment is very complete. They possess a code of laws that comprehends the whole administrative machinery, which is modified or added to as emergencies demand, by imperial edicts. The emperor is absolute, as administrator of the laws; but he must not depart from custom in executing them. Their penal code was begun more than two thousand years ago, and it is so universally circulated among the people that printed copies can be obtained by those in the humblest circumstances. The emperor has his assistants, corresponding very nearly to our president's cabinet; governors have under them subordi- nate officers, and so on down to the lowest official position. In times of domestic peace, the Chinaman enjoys unrestricted freedom, so long as he conforms to the laws. He can travel anywhere in the dominion, or pursue any calling that pleases him . Females are little better than slaves. They are looked upon as merchantable property, and are bought and sold like any other article of traffic, though their value is not generally great. A Chinese woman never gains any distinction until after death. Then,, if favorable circumstances transpire, she may be canonized, and ever after be an object of devout wor- ship. Female infants are often destroyed, although an impe- rial edict exists against the practice of infanticide. Considering li 210 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. the humble position the women occupy in China, and the hard life they therefore lead, it would perhaps be better (certainly more merciful) were they all slain in infancy, and better still, were they never born. Let "the lords of creation," in America and Europe, point to the women of the Celestial Empire, and ask their "oppressed sisters " to compare their social and polit- ical position with them. "With the one it is inequality with men, because of utter degradation; with the other, inequality (if so it may be called) because of extreme exaltation; and this is one difference in European and Asiatic civilization. The Chinese mandarins (called in China kwan-fu) are the various government officials. Their different positions are indicated chiefly by the color of the buttons on the top of their caps. Any official position is honorable, and of course the higher the office, the greater the distinction it gives. All officers are chosen by a system of competitive examinations as to education, and those most learned are considered best quali- fied for conducting the affairs of government, and are there- fore preferred. This accounts for the great desire every China- man has to become educated, as by this means alone can he hope to rise above a menial position. Few of the Chinese, even among the lower classes, are unable to read and write. But in China, as it is in all other nations, there are some who have no high ambition, and hence do not care to devote any of their' time to matters that bring distinction. Yet what is their edu- cation after all, but confirming them in the already seemingly fixed belief that there is nothing to learn except what has been learned; for, even the modern Chinese sage and philosopher is forever groping backward in the dusky past among records so ancient as to be inseparable from mythological history. And the more profound his knowledge of traditional antiquity, the greater is he esteemed for his erudition. Three forms of belief constitute the national religion of China — the Confucian, based on the philosophic writings of Con- fucius, an ancient Chinese sage — which is not a religion as pertains to spirituality, but is simply an excellent code of morals; the Buddhist, introduced from India, and now popular only among the most illiterate, and the Taouist — founded by Lao-tse, another ancient Chinese philosopher — which bears a close resemblance to modern Spiritualism. The Confucian lias many adherents. It is the basis of the social life and political THE SUBJECTS OF THE CELESTIAL KINGDOM. 211 system of the nation, and is professed by all the great and learned persons. The Chinese are exceedingly skillful in handicraft. Their wove fabrics of silk, satin and gauzes; their beautiful embroid- ery, delicate filligree work in gold and silver; their elaborate engraving on wood and stone, and carvings on ivory; their celebrated pottery and their brilliant colorings, are wonder- fully wrought, and cannot but be admired. Their system of agriculture is crude, though very successful. They fully un- derstand the value of the various fertilizers, and their plan of irrigation is very complete. The whole of the arable land is utilized, and because of the vast population that has so long subsisted on the products of the soil, and is yet mainly depend- ent upon it, much attention is given to its proper cultivation. Of so vital importance is agriculture to the nation, that on the first day of each year a grand state ceremony is held in its honor, in which the Emperor takes the lead. Similar solem- nities are celebrated by the governors of the different pro- vinces also. All the social customs of the Chinese are governed and pre- scribed by the ancient Le-King, or Book of Rites, in which is laid down in detail the ceremonies and observances, to the number of three thousand, that regulates their social inter- course. So important are these ceremonial usages considered, that a legal tribunal is established at Pekin, called the Board of Rites, whose duty it is to interpret them. Their festivals are numerous, and like ever3 T thing else pertaining to this strange people, peculiar. Their language is wonderful, and their literature comprehensive. In whatever light we view them, striking peculiarities are manifest, and until we have become more familiar with them, they will ever be surrounded by a mysterious atmosphere. We have thus briefly outlined some of the chief characteris- tics of this people, as they are found in that land that has so long supported their national existence, as to be sacred to its inhabitants beyond our comprehension. Having seen them at home, wo are better prepared to understand them abroad ; though in our most intimate relations with them in our own country, we have learned that "their ways are past finding out." 212 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. HIS MIGRATION. In China, notwithstanding her dominion extends over a vast territory, the population is so great that there are necessarily many poor persons who know not of luxury, but by the most abstemious habits manage barely to exist. It is an innate prin- ciple of human nature to have the desire to improve the condi- tion of life ; to wish to be comfortably provided for in every respect. When the ports of the empire were thrown open to Europeans, and those who entered therein had learned some- what of the character of the population ; when they saw their over-crowded condition and observed their habits of economy, industry, and patient toiling, there were those among them who at once were seized with a speculative desire, and resolved to take advantage of the servile condition of the inhabitants, and woo them from their homes, to utilize their labor for their own profit. It was not a difficult matter to engage influential natives to aid in this scheme; and ere long, by the inducements that were held out to the half-starved population, ships bur- dened with human freight were departing from those oriental shores, bound for foreign lands, where manual labor was valu- able. Americans were not long in joining in the speculation. A treaty was entered into between the two governments — the. United States and China — sanctioning, and thereby encour- aging, immigration and friendly intercourse of the inhabit- ants. The consummation of these negotiations was consid- ered a great triumph for Christianity and European civiliza- tion ; for China had so long repelled any attempt to introduce Christianity among her subjects, and had so long been averse to mingling with other nations, either commercially or socially — resisting all overtures, and always manifesting a disposition to be let alone — that when her gates were thrown open, the missionaries, who had patiently waited without her walls, only knocking occasionally for admittance, broke forth in a new song of joy, for they believed that the millennium was dawn- ing, and the "year of jubilee" had come. When California so suddenly bared her bosom to the world, and showed the first evidence of the wondrous fertility and re- sources v she possessed, that were only waiting the quickening touch of progress for their development, the tide of Chinese immigration was diverted hither. It was not, at the out- THE SUBJECTS OF THE CELESTIAL KINGDOM. 213 set, so much an immigration, as an importation, for the hea- then, with his love of home and country, and his passive mind, would not have ventured into unknown lands unimpelled. He was sold into slavery by his superior fellows, who, for their services in deluding him into the toils of the Caucasian specu- lator, shared in the profits his labor yielded. First, but a ripple was discovered on the placid Pacific, as the solitary ship slowly drifted across from the distant shore — and her human freight numbered not many ; and that ripple had long disappeared before another came, from a similar cause. But soon the waters of the ocean were greatly dis- turbed, and rolled in increasing turbulence, for they were parted by many keels; and many great paddle-wheels were angrily beating them back, or they were burrowed in by swift- revolving propellers, that sent them twirling in foaming ed- dies. And the great panting white -winged monsters that caused all this commotion were bearing thousands of China's semi-barbarians to California's " golden shores." Thus did they first come among us, and thus have they continued to pour in, until now the stream flows on uninterrupted, only increasing in volume wave after wave. Many of those who were imported remained long enough to gain their freedom, and besides accumulate considerable money, and then returned to their native land. Those going back among their poor kin- dred and friends, with a quantity of gold that is considered a fortune in China, kindled in others the desire to seek a fortune in California ; hence those who came voluntarily, added to the many whose labor is contracted for before they have even heard that such a country as this exists, has swelled the in-flowing tide to an immensity that reasonably alarms the white popula- tion of the Pacific Coast. INFLUENCE ON THE COUNTRY. What the influence of the Chinese population in California has been upon the state, is not so difficult to answer as what it is note, aud will be in the future. Yet any answer to this question in its past and present significance is only opinion, and in its future bearing, only conjecture. Allowing no feel- ing of prejudice that the present excitement relating to Chi- nese immigration may have awakened, to bias our opinion, we cannot believe otherwise than that the Chinese in Cali- 214 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. fornia have contributed largely to her prosperity. They have in no instance retarded her progress, but have aided in the development of her vast resources. Look at the question in this light! Thirty years ago, San Francisco was a hamlet with scarce a breeze of life in it. Thirty years ago, the State of California was a wilderness, overrun by wild animals, and no less wild humans. It was an almost unheard of country. Yiew the contrast. To-day San Francisco is a veritable metropolis; a city than which there is no other more prosperous, none with more comparative present greatness, and none with a brighter future prospect, in the world. The State has aston- ished the world by its wonderful resources. Its fertile soil — so productive — and its mineral wealth, command universal ad- miration. This is not merely of local importance, but its value is recognized all over the land. Why, the progress of the city of San Francisco, and State of California in these three decades is almost equal to the advance of other cities and countries during the years of a century! What has done this? — Labor. True, the foundations of this greatness were firmly implanted in the soil, and in the granite mountains, but it was not a spontaneous development. Hard, earnest work, by human hands, had to be and has been performed. And there has been no class of people among the inhabitants more busily employed than the Chinese population. And until two or three years past, their labor was entirely directed by intelligent American or European minds; by men who to- day are looked upon as the leaders in this rapid march of pro- gression. They were needed, else they would have been idle, or working for themselves. They were in demand, or they would not have been imported to our shores. No one will saj^ that too much has been accomplished in this short period. We have not more houses in our cities than are occupied; we have not more railroads traversing our mountains and plains than receive supporting patronage; we have not too man} r waving fields of grain, blooming orchards and purple vineyards; we have not too many drills penetrat- ing our mountains; nor have we too many foundries and factories, where intricate machinery is employed to do the work of many willing hands. While all this has been doing, there are few, if any, in this whole countiy, that have suffered because of forced idleness, or little condensation for work THE SUBJECTS OF THE CELESTIAL KINGDOM. 215 performed. Thus, taking things as they are and as they have been, we cannot see that the presence of the Chinese among ais, in the past, has resulted in evil, but the benefits they have wrought are seen on every hand. The influence they may have exerted on society and morality in the past, is not to be considered. Indeed, it would be well for the population of European origin to withhold comparison in this, for, unfortu- nately for them, the Chinaman had but little influence, one way or the other, and whatever the condition of society and public morals has been, it was only what they made it them- selves. .For a long time in California there was no society, and morality had but a faint meaning. Their influence at present is not materially different from what it has been in the past. As other residents of California have prospered, so have the Chinese, and their power in the country is greater in the ratio of the increase of their wealth and acquirements. The treaty stipulations forbid them be- coming citizens, and hence they have no power whatever by ballot. Because of their simple wants and economical habits, they can live with a much less expenditure of money than other nationalities, and therefore they can accumulate money more rapidly at the same wages, and if needs be, work profitably for much less than the white laborers. Therefore, in seasons of general business depression the tendency is, for the Chi- nese to supersede white workmen in the various mechanical trades and laboring capacities, though the excitement from this cause is rather premature, for the instances are few in- deed, where Chinese labor has been actually substituted for white. In some of the manufacturing businesses where the proprietors have found it impossible to pay the current price for white labor, and compete with similar manufactories in the East — where white labor is obtained for less than Chinese is here — rather than abandon the business entirely, they have dismissed their white workmen and employed Chinamen, not, however, without first extending to the former the privilege of remaining on the reduced salaries. In this way some of the infant industries, especially in manufacturing, have been sus- tained, and gradually have grown self-supporting and able, by degrees, to substitute white labor for Chinese, There are nu- merous factories and shops that would soon cease to mingle in the hum of manufacturing life, were an exodus of the whole 216 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. Chinese population of the Coast to suddenly take place. So it is a question, whether or not the trades and various busi- nesses that the Chinese have partly engaged in, or have wholly monopolized, would have been nearly so extensively carried on, had they not taken hold of them, or would continue, did they abandon them now. These are some of the intrica- cies that must be fully explained before too decided action is taken relative to the Chinamen that are already among us. If this wail for relief from Chinese immigration, that goes up so pathetically, was the expression of agony wrung from the poor laboring men and women in California, by the oppressive yoke the heathen has lain upon them, then would we say, let us rise in our might and shake it off. But in its cadence we can plainly distinguish the assumed lamentations of weak, though aspiring politicians, who lead in this dismal concert, hoping that they will be caught up by the human wave that follows after, and borne on its crest to political glory. Possibly the worst feature of the presence of the Chinese, is their clannishness; their national individuality. California may yet solve a problem that no other country in the world has attempted, — that of harmonizing two distinct and almost op- posite civilizations, without the one blending with the other. From the experience she has already had, it does not seem- that the Chinese are going to assimilate themselves to the habits and customs of Americans or Europeans; and it is cer- tain that the heathen will not convert the Christian, or Chris- tianized infidel, to his manner of life. So if the influx of Chi- nese continues, there must, of necessity, be some understanding and harmony between the two races, if they live under the same laws and occupy the same territory. But Chinese immigration must be stopped, or they must adopt a style of life that is not offensive to refined American taste. Let them remain in their own land or conform somewhat to the customs of the people among whom they choose to abide. "VVe care not for their style of dress, for their queues, if they choose to retain them, nor for their religion; but they must respect the laws of decency and health, as we interpret them, and not make themselves and their places of abode odious in our sight. We have enough of such characters of our own kind, and need no more. Perhaps if we were more particular to conceal our own squalid habitations, we would find it easier to enforce rules of decency among them. THE SUBJECTS OF THE CELESTIAL KINGDOM. 217 Who knows, but that this opening up of the Chinese Em- pire, and pouring its hordes of queer inhabitants upon the sur- rounding nations, is but a part of the unwritten and mysteri- ous history of the destiny of nations, that cannot be averted — another of the strange things that were to happen in the nine- teenth century, the purpose of which will be revealed only in the future! Indeed, it is a mysterious power that controls the destiny of the world, whose sceptered hand is not seen except in the ages that are past. 218 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XXXI. THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. THE NUMBER — DOMESTIC HABITS, DRESS, CUSTOMS, ETC — NEW YEAR A FUNERAL A BANQUET — COST OF LIVING. THE NUMBER. IT has been variously estimated that there are on the Pacific Coast one hundred thousand to one hundred and sixty- thousand Chinese. These estimates are, however, based on uncertainties. Taking the records of arrivals and departures, and allowing a reasonable number for deaths, the population remaining at present is not less than one hundred and thirty thousand, and perhaps considerably exceeds this. It is ex- ceedingly difficult to ascertain, even approximately, how many of these are in the city of San Francisco. They are so irregu- larly distributed — in some portions of the city being almost as numerous as bees about a hive on a sultry day, while on the residence streets and in the suburbs, they are found only at distant intervals. Besides, where one is known to dwell, there may be a score of others occupying the same tenement, that are seldom seen. Their knowledge of economy is applied to space as well as to other important matters of living, so it is impossible to know how many there are, or where they keep themselves. A petition was circulated for signatures of citizens in the latter part of 1875, by the resident Chinese, asking for the appointment, by the Postofnce Department at Washington, of a Chinese postal clerk, which stated that the number of Chinese in the city was nearly ninety thousand. This was evidently mi exaggeration indulged in for effect, for excluding the tran- sient population — which is sometimes very large, especially during dull times in the interior of the State — the number does not exceed sixty thousand, and a safer estimate would reduce it to between forty-five and fifty thousand. The greater num- ber of these arc able-bodied nudes, and therefore on the basis THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 219 by which the whole population of the city is computed — allow- ing three for children and females, for every one man — and assuming that the labor of a Chinaman is of equal value to the labor of a white man, they offset one hundred and fifty thousand of the whites, or more than half of the entire popu- lation of San Francisco. There are about two thousand Chi- nese women, and a few hundred children. It is therefore j3lain that the Chinese population of San Francisco is a for- midable element, and inasmuch as the majority of them are engaged in various laboring capacities, their presence is already felt, and the rapidity with which they still pour in upon us is necessarily startling to those with whom their labor comes in competition. DOMESTIC HABITS, DRESS, CUSTOMS, ETC. Although, as a race, the Chinese are characterized for their love of domestic life, few family circles have been formed among them in San Francisco. Woman, the important link in the sacred chain, is not here; or if she is here, she is in that infa- mous pursuit that is the great destroyer of homes. Of the whole number of Chinese women in the city, there are, perhaps, less than a hundred who are lawful wives or mothers, and " keepers at home." The others are the victims of the basest system of slavery that has ever been tolerated in heathen or Christian lands — slaves to the lusts of the vilest men. Those who are virtuous wives, live retired lives, hid from public gaze, so that little is known of their habits in pri- vate domestic life. They, however, occupy menial positions to their husbands, serving ever, and seldom served, daily ac- knowledging the superiority of their lord, by abject humilia- tion, in obeying his supreme commands. Beside their house- hold duties — which are exceedingly simple — they are engaged in various light pursuits, such as needle-work, manufacturing fancy ornaments, etc., contributing thereby to the mutual family support. Their children are apparently well cared for, as their round, plump, rosy cheeks, and general thrifty appear- ance bears evidence. They are only diminutive chinamen or women, each clad in the same style of garb as their elders, and each wearing the sacred ornament — the pig-tail, or queue — that dangles from the head of every chinaman, whether old or young, rich or poor, male or female — except a very few, who have been converted to Christianity. (The women sometimes 220 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. depart from this custom, by putting up their hair in a sort of Chinese architectural style, puffed, and rolled, and orna- mented with a variety of brass and gilt trappings, and lofty combs, incomprehensible to us, and certainly uncomfortable to them. This make-up, however, reveals a copious use of oil or paste, as well as skillful manipulation by an experienced hairdresser. ) But the dress of the little fellows is generally of some bright, though neutral colored fabric, always durable, and not unfrequently fine in texture, and costly. The children all have a remarkably intelligent look; their bright black eyes have an expressiveness that is never seen in adult Chinamen. Their young intellects are free, not yet hampered by that schol- astic training that enslaves the mind in the ever-narrowing limits of custom, and begets that stolid and unimpressionable look of unconcern, that is most repulsive in the countenance of the adult Chinese. This, indeed, is the chief personal char- acteristic of the race — this lack of animated expression in the countenance. It is hard to define what kind of a look it is: cold, hard, unsympathetic, indifferent, blank, statue-like, sad r cunning, wise and defiant, partly express it, and it is the same in every Chinaman you meet. It is stereotyped in every member of the race; as if the mind of each had been formed in the same mould, and manifests its action in the eye and counte- nance, in the same way in all. Some of the most intelligent business men among them have learned to show some anima- tion of countenance, by their frequent contact with Europeans and Americans, whose faces, as indices to their thoughts, are as constantly changing in expression as the flower-flecked and verdant landscape in the sunshine and showers of an April day; but the animation is forced, and therefore results in ugly contortions. Though all Californians are familiar with the dress of the Chinese, some persons may read this sketch who have never had the opportunity of seeing a citizen of the ' ' flowery king- dom" in oriental attire, and to whom a brief description of his raiment would be desired information. Yet we will not attempt to disrobe their garments of the mystery that is connected with them, for in exploring those capacious sleeves, we might discover evidences of the " ways that are dark, and tricks that are (not always) vain " (-ly played) of the " Heathen Chinee," who is peculiar. The laboring class almost universally, wear THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 221 outer garments of the light blue cotton denims, similar to, and often the same kind that is so much used for overalls and jumpers, by white laborers. The pants are cut in the same style that the Europeans and Americans follow, only made fuller in the legs, and subject to no changes whatever. Their shoes are made of cloth (generally serge for uppers), with leath- er and cork (or wood) soles. The soles of the shoes are about an inch in thickness, having no high heel, but following the exact outline of the bottom of the foot, turning up slightly at the toes. The shoe is low cut, offering no protection to the ankle, and maybe plain cloth or richly embroidered, or beaded, as the wearer chooses. Their hats are straight rimmed, with square crowns, light pearl or black in color — made of common wool. Those who work outdoors, however, wear the regular Chinese umbrella hat, which is very broad brimmed, serving as a pro- tection against sunshine and also rain. This is made of bam- boo splits or rushes, and in shape resembles a common tin milk pan turned up-side-down. Their coats (or the garments worn instead of the coat) are the peculiar articles of attire. They are made of the same kind of fabric as the pantaloons, and cut without any reference to the shape of the body — ex- cept fitting neatly around the neck and having sleeves for the arms. They have no lappel or turndown collar — seldom a col- lar band — and when they are properly adjusted on the person, one side entirely overlaps the other, and is fastened by loops and small brass buttons, almost on the shoulder, and along down the side. The body of the coat is made very full, and hangs loose and straight, extending nearly to the knees. The coat sleeve is the most wonderful part of the whole make-up. It fits the arm very neatly, near the shoulder, but gradually widens toward the end until it assumes the proportions of a lady's hoop-skirt (the ladies will pardon the comparison) ex- tending farther and wider to — ad infinitum (for we never have had the privilege of seeing a full-sized sleeve unrolled, and therefore cannot tell how long it may be). It is certainly very wide and flowing, completely covering the hand, — and if necessary, any small articles of value, such as boxes of cigars, silver tea-sets, and the like — when not rolled, or pinned back. When a change of temperature demands more clothing, a quilted sleeveless jacket is worn outside the coat. Their under- wear is made of the famous white canton flannel. The skirt of 222 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FKANCISCO. the shirt hangs outside of the body of the pants, a few inches of its lower margin showing below the skirt of the coat, — a style somewhat shocking to the modesty of Eastern ladies, upon their first arrival on the Pacific Coast. A few of the laboring Chinamen have adopted the American costume of dress, throughout, and many apparently prefer the heavy stoga boot to their cork-soled shoes. The wealthy Chinese merchants and gentlemen go as it were " clothed in purple and fine linen." Their garments are made of the richest cassimere and silks, and the style is modified so as to give a more refined appearance to the wearer. There is not such a superabundance of material used, and the slat- ternly looseness observed in the dress of their poorer brothers is not seen in their garments. Those who are dressed in great- est elegance, have their pantaloon legs neatly gathered or folded at the bottom, and tied or buckled close to the ankle, giving them a similar appearance to the knee-breeches and silk stockings indulged in by our country's founders. These wear neat, close-fitting silk caps, without rims — after the style of mandarins, or government officials, at home. An intelligent Chinaman, dressed a la mode de Peking, and fresh from his barber, commands the respect of any person, no matter what his ideas of refinement. The women are not easily distinguished from the men by the difference of their toilettes. Their garments are apparently cut after the same pattern, only made more roomy and gene- rally of more delicate material. Their shoes are finer and ta- pered off in imitation of the small shoes worn by the aristocratic ladies of the Empire — whose feet are frequently not permitted to exceed three inches in length — with a corresponding taper. The only covering for their head is a large silk kerchief, usu- ally of some rich color. There is no attempt whatever to dress or ornament the neck, either by the men or women. About the only ornaments the ladies use, are large ivory or bone rings, worn around the ankles and wrists, a finger ring or two, and earrings — except in dressing the hair. The women are low and stout built, while the men, as a class, are not so high in stature as the Americans, not so muscular, and considerably inferior in bodily strength. They have great powers of endur- ance, however. Except at the restaurants, their larders are very scantily sup- THE CHINESE OF SAX FRANCISCO. 223 plied, as to variety of edibles, and the bill of fare is simple. Rice, fish and pork is their principal food, and tea the uni- versal beverage. They cook over an open fire — in a kind of a mortar-shaped stove, or brazier — and the fuel they use in preparing a meal would hardly be sufficient to start a fire in the common kitchen stove or range. A half-dozen will gather round a small table, in the centre of which is set a large bowl of rice, pork and potatoes — all cooked together — and with a small plate or dish, and a pair of chop-sticks (fai-tsz, literally, nimble lads) each, they will "make a hearty meal." Fre- quently two or three will eat from the same dish. They drink their tea at all times of the day, but seldom while eating. NEW YEAR. The Chinese New Year festivities are the most interesting, both to themselves and to persons of other nationalities, of all their celebrations. This occurs generally in the last days of February (according to our calendar) and the festivities con- tinue for a week at least. San Francisco being the metropolis of the Pacific Coast, to the Chinese as well as to the white population, it is the grand gathering place for them on all extra occasions. The New Year is the season of presents with the Chinese, as with the inhabitants of the -western nations. Sweetmeats, toys, fancy articles, and a great variety of things that differ from the ordinary necessities of life, that is a rarity, or will answer for a keepsake, are exchanged among them as New Year's gifts. Before the New Year has dawned, it is supposed that every Chinaman has satisfied his creditors for any debts that may have been contracted during the year. If he is not prompt in settling all little business matters, his creditors besiege him on New Year's eve and plead and threaten until he is willing (as a rule) to make a clean settlement. The person who begins the New Year heavily in debt, is not expected to prosper or to find much enjoyment in life. Such a rule would work admir- ably among all nationalities. The Chinese quarter, during the celebration days, is a scene of gay life and heathen revelry, that surpasses description. The streets are all aglow with fantastic holiday trappings. The dusky sons of the Oriental Empire throng every highway and 224 " LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. byway, clad in their very finest and best holiday attire, and for once during the twelve months show a degree of animation on their countenances that is pleasant to behold, as a contrast to their usually stolid visages. The number is greatly increased by the residents of the interior, who have quit their various pursuits with one accord, and flocked to the city to join in the national celebration. All business places are abandoned for the time (except those which the success of the festivities require to be kept open), and this whole hive of queer humans is stirred to its profound- est depths by the excitement of the occasion. Housewives, who for the three hundred and sixty days preceding have had faithful servants, find of a sudden that the kitchen is deserted, and the laundrymen upon whom the family is dependent for their glossy linen, disturbs not the door-bell during the days of merrymaking. Thus do they all betake themselves to the fes- tive scene, throwing aside all care and anxiety of mind, and mingling in the recreative sports and social ceremonies that make this season, of all others, the most joyous. At the early dawn of morning, the New Years' calling is be- gun. The custom of visiting friends and relatives on this day is more universally observed among the Chinese than Europe- ans. Each person carries his cards, which are made of neat red paper, and have his name written upon them in Chinese characters. Friendly salutations are exchanged wpon the streets, and at the houses where the visitor calls a glass of wine is taken, with some light refreshments. The eldest friends are the first who receive visits, and after the honors have been paid to them, chums and cronies are remembered, and receive even a fuller share of attention than the former. "New joy, new joy! get rich, get rich!" are the words of greeting they use, equivalent to "Happy New Year." Chinatown during those days looks more like an oriental city than at any other time of the year. Much fantastic-colored bunting is displayed from windows and house-tops, and de- pending over the walks are Chinese lanterns of every size, color, and design; while the doors, windows, and walls of the houses, both inside and out, are decked with placards bearing all sorts of strange characters, wrought in gilt, black, and bright red. The restaurants and theatres are gaudy with brilliant adornments, and the air is rank with the odor from THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 225 the crowded courts and kitchens where the banquets are pre- paring. "When their use is not prohibited by a city ordinance, the roar of fire-crackers and Chinese bombs is incessant, and deaf- ing as the noise of battle. The Chinese seem to more fully understand the importance of noisy celebrations, than any other people; for although a fourth of July in America may echo a few more terrible sounds, they continue their tumult and racket unceasingly until the last hour of the period for celebration has passed. Squeaking Chinese fiddles and kettle- drums add their harsh tones to the general discord. To those unaccustomed to the habits of this people, the scene is one of utmost disorder and confusion. All this terrible racket of drums, gongs, bombs, and fire-crackers, is made for a purpose that needs to be explained. They suppose that spirits are everywhere — spirits of the just as well as the unjust. This uproar is created therefore to frighten away from earth all bad spirits that may have gathered about during the past year, so that the new year will be begun without any evil influences having a hold on the people. The sidewalks, and even the middle of the streets, are thronged with eager life. Wealthy merchants, clothed in long priestly robes of purple silk or satin, pass to and fro, busy in conducting some particular parts of the ceremonies of the celebration, and women and children, dressed in most peculiar and brilliant attire, their faces painted till they look more like dolls or toys than humans, mingle in the motley throng. In secluded alleys and courts, the active } T outh in- dulge in various sports to the delight of many lookers-on. A game played with a feathered-ball seems to be quite popu- lar among the athletic fellows. The ball is simply a strip of fish-skin, dried with the scales on, folded up neatly to about an inch and a half square, and pierced with a few feathers three or four inches in length, so as to make it keep its poise when tossed in air. A copper coin is added to give it weight. The skin is elastic, so that when it is struck with the hand or foot, it quickly rebounds. There does not seem to be any "points" in the game, as the manner of playing is simply to toss the ball up and then the person it falls nearest to is expected to bat it with the bottom of his foot, which involves a very peculiar motion of the leg; and so on, each striving to 15 226 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. give it a better stroke than the other. It would seem that they would make very clumsy attempts with their awkward heavy-soled shoes, but some are vei^ agile in this sport, and the ball is kept bobbing over the heads of the players, some- times for several minutes, without falling to the ground. At night, the scene is brilliant. The lanterns cast their many-colored rays, the tinsel decorations are transformed to real costly ornaments, and all the tawdry embellishments de- ceive the eye by their brilliancy and artistic appearance in the fancy light. The streets are not so crowded as during the day, bat indoors all is life and gayety. There is feasting and playing; numerous simple amusements are heartily engaged in as a social pastime, and work and sleep are banished en- tirely from the scene. At one theatre, Act XLIX., Scenes lst r 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th, and 6th, of a wonderful historical drama, are being enacted by a company of brilliant performers, wherein is represented the costumes, manners and habits of the Chi- nese that were in vogue thousands of years ago, and that bear a striking resemblance to what is seen on the streets of San Francisco, in the Chinese quarter almost any day; at another, startling and dangerous acrobatic feats are witnessed by a large audience. The restaurants are thronged with hungry humanity, busily employed in analyzing the mysterious dishes of Chinese cookery; the opium dens are packed with dreamy idlers, and the gambling houses are filled with an eager crowd of speculators in chance; while the most infamous places of all — the houses of ill-fame — are in their holiday finery, and reap- ing a holiday harvest. This is but a faint echo, a glimmer of what is heard and seen in Chinatown during the days and nights that are cele- brated at the beginning of each Chinese year. To picture the manner of celebrating this season, with the strange ceremonies that are observed, in detail, would require a volume. A FUNEKAL. The Chinese do not die; they "pass from the world," "sa- lute the age," "cease to exist," or "ascend to the sky," but they never die. At least that is the wa}' they express them- selves when speaking of the dead. Indeed, that is a very pretty way of alluding to the "departure" of friends. It does not arouse those feelings of awe that are stirred by the THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 227 simple bold utterance — "they are dead!" or if it does, the mantling of the meaning- by a poetic periphrase awakens other feelings that somewhat counteract the effect, that the sad news the words impart, would otherwise have. The burial cere- mony, however, departs from this delicacy of sentiment. One of the most inhuman customs that prevails with the Chinese is that of removing the dying to some out-of-the-way place, and abandoning them in their last moments. It is not an unfrequent occurrence in San Francisco to find a dead or dying Chinaman in some damp, dark, and deserted cellar or tenement house, where even the most filthy living would not remain a day. Sometimes they are discovered in the alleys where there is little or no travel. Chinese women are more frequently treated thus, inasmuch as the women are not held in such esteem as the men. But the friendless Chinese, male or female, have reason to dread the approach of death, for they are generally doomed to pass their dying hour unattended by sympathetic hands, amid dismal surroundings, and alone. This is due to the custom observed among them that the person at whose house any one dies must incur the funeral expenses, if the dead have no relatives. It is a popular belief with them that if such person fails to provide for a suitable burial, the spirit of the dead will return and bring great trouble upon the house. Besides, there are ill omens con- nected with death, and none wishes to incur the risk of any evil visitations that a death at his abode might bring. Con- sidering how intelligent they are, it is very strange that such a custom would be heeded. This only shows how set they have become in everything regarding life; that they are con- trolled entirely by usages, established ages ago; that they are yet slaves to superstition. A Chinese funeral is conducted with the peculiar ceremonies so characteristic of the race. The burial rites vary. The cer- emonies at the burial of aged persons, or dignitaries, are very imposing from a Chinese view-point; but with the poor and friendless, and the young, there is not much formality ob- served. Young women and little children are earned to their last resting-place with scarcely any ceremonial observances whatever. At an ordinary funeral, such as is often witnessed in San Francisco, the body, after death, is first laid upon the floor 228 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. for a short time. After it has been washed and dressed — the best suit always being used, or new garments entirely — it is then placed on the "longevity boards," (coffin) and covered with a white cloth. Tables are then set with provisions to feed the spirit of the deceased, and also to appease other spirits that are supposed to be hovering about. Some food is pre- sented to the mouth of the dead by the eldest son (if there is one) or by the next nearest relative . There must be five kinds of animal food, cooked and uncooked, cakes, vegetables, fruit, wine and tea. Whole fowls and fish, and many times whole hogs are used at these occasions, having been roasted to a rich brown color, and ornamented fantastically. Then the mourning women — sometimes hired and sometimes the rela- tives and friends of the deceased, or both — gather about the body, wailing and lamenting in most sorrowful tones. This mourning ceremony is made up of sobs and eulogies intermin- gled. Interspersed with the lamentations will be eulogistic sentences, and not unfrequently an extended speech will be spoken. These are either improvised or committed to mem- ory for the occasion. The latter, however, is generally the case; as they have many set formulas for the burial service. A common lament is of similar import to this: "0, thou, de- parted one, I am thy relative; this day hast thou suddenly deceased. My heart is torn because thou art no more. I will never more see thee, but I hope thy soul hath joy and peace — having ascended to the heavenly palace. Alas! Alas!" Sometimes drums and gongs are sounded, and fire-crackers exploded, to frighten off any evil spirits that may be around. The Chinese have no great fear of death, but the anxiety caused by the fear that they may not have a suitable coffin pro- vided, wherein to repose during the long ages after death, is not a little. There is no more acceptable present to a father from a son, than a neat, substantial coffin. This is sacredly preserved until required for use by the owner, in the room set apart for the worship of ancestors, in which is also kept nu- merous remembrances of the dead, tablets with their names inscribed thereon, and sometimes lines corresponding very nearly to our epitaphs, telling of the virtues of the deceased. When these ceremonies have been completed, the body is placed in the coffin, and borne — in a hearse or wagon — to the cemetery, followed by a concourse of friends. The mourning THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 229 women sometimes accompany the procession in carriages. For this occasion they dress in white, wearing white hoods also. (White is the mourning color of the Chinese.) Bands of mu- sicians frequently accompany the cortege, but to the American •notion of harmony, there is not much but discord in the harsh sounds they make with their instruments. All along the road or street to the burial ground, they strew strips of brown paper pierced in the centre in imitation of the Chinese coin money. This is "road money," being thus used to purchase the right of way. But with the Chinese, it represents certain value when thus used — as it is purchased for the funeral service from the priest or keeper of the Joss House, and is scattered broadcast along the route to buy off any bad spirits that might be lurking around to interfere with the spirit of the deceased, as it proceeded to the final home of the body it once occupied. At the grave, a rude table is prepared, and the food, which has also been brought, is again arranged, as a banquet to the spirit and spirit guests, in the same manner as it was at the house. Great quantities of the paper money is here strewn about, and much of it burned. A little furnace has been erected near the grave, and in it paper chests, toys, and some- times toy-servants are burned, representing the clothing and valuables of the deceased, thus sent on their journey to the celestial port where the spirit of the deceased no doubt will be waiting to receive them. Sacred candles and incense sticks are set up in an earth-filled trough, and burned, and after the body has been deposited in the grave, and the damp clay heaped upon it, shutting it in from mortal view forever, a few candles and incense sticks are placed on the fresh turned earth and lighted, some wine and tea is poured upon the ground to satisfy thirsty spirits, some of the food is also strewn about the graves, the remainder is gathered up and loaded into the wagon, and all who formed that queer concourse, except the body of the dead and the vagrant spirits, are rapidly driven back to the city, there to sate their mortal cravings by devour- ing the remnant of the feast that was prepared to aj^pease the hunger of only immortal stomachs. These funeral banquets are often very expensive, especially when the deceased is very aged, wealthy, or is considered a man of great prominence among them. The funeral ceremo- nies are considerably extended at the burial of these. A 230 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. marked difference is observed in the procession. One or two young men or boys are seen following the hearse clad very shabbily; their feet bare, each carrying a cane for support, and bowed down in the attitude of great grief. They are supported on either side by friends who lead them by the* hand. These represent sons of the deceased; their attitude of mourning is emblematical of the crushing sorrow they feel; and their bare feet and tattered clothing, of their condition in life, by having been bereft of a protector. Fourteen days after the burial is a general mourning day, but the age and position of the dead changes the mourning ceremonies. Parents are most lamented. Offerings to their names are most abundant, and the anniversary of their death is longest remembered. There is very little mourning for the young; and for infants and girls, scarce a lament is uttered or a tear shed. But the memory of the revered and honored dead is perpetuated for years and even ages. The twenty-fourth day of the second month of the Chinese year (4th of April), is the period of the Tsing Ming — pure and resplendent — festival. On this day there is nearly as much excitement in Chinatown as at the New Year festivities. Ac- cording to the Chinese belief, the gates of the tombs are thrown open on this day, and the spirits of all the dead come forth and visit the earth. Wonderful feasts are prepared for these ' celestial inhabitants, and hacks and wagons throng the high- ways leading to the cemeteries, bearing all manner of food with which to make up a banquet. As many as one hundred hogs have been roasted whole, for this festival, and all the delicacies the living are fond of, are provided in abundance for the dead. Similar ceremonies are performed at the graves, as those observed at funerals. The graves are repaired; if there are any trees or shrubs, they are trimmed; and a general reno- vation of the tombs takes place. After the various ceremo- nies are done, they repair to the city, and a bounteous feast is spread, when all join in the repast. Such are some of the peculiarities of that race, the members of which, in San Fran- cisco, form one of the chief characteristics of the city. A BANQUET. Although a Chinamen can subsist on very small rations, — a bowl of rice, a little meat or fish, and a cup of tea, supplying THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 231 a good working-day meal — there are no people in the world that enjoy eating more, or understand the art of preparing so great a variety of dishes, as the Chinese. Commonly, their habits are very economical; but when a feast is decided upon, they are lavish in expenditures, and apparently do not allow the thought of the cost of any desired article to trouble them, "but go straightway and secure it. It does not require an event of great note, to furnish an excuse for a banquet. The anni- versary of the opening of a theatre, the arrival of a much loved iriend, or any occasion of but inconsiderable importance is good cause to rejoice over, by a little extra eating and drink- ing. It not unfrequently transpires that a number of promi- nent American gentlemen of San Francisco, are invited guests to the dinners that are given by wealthy Chinese residents, in honor of the anniversary of some particular event. These are conducted in the most approved style of the Oriental aristoc- racy, and those who are the favored participants gain consid- erable insight into the table habits that prevail among the higher class Chinese. The company is generally composed of the most intelligent Chinese and Americans, and is withal a very highly entertained and convivial assemblage. But every- thing pertaining to the banquet is cast in the oriental mould. There is no apparent attempt, on the part of the host, to imi- tate American customs or style, either in table etiquette or in the preparation of the food. The only departure from tradi- tional usage is substituting knives and forks for chop-sticks. The Chinese are well aware that experience in their use is necessary to render the handling of these at eating, at all sat- isfactory. So, in this they conform to the American custom. The banquet hall is generally one of the most aristocratic Chinese restaurants, located in the Chinese quarter of the city. The guests are received in the reception room, which is pro- vided with a number of small stands, upon which are arranged trays containing tiny cups and pots filled with a decoction of tea, cigars, tobacco and cigarettes. As the guests arrive, they are received by an English speaking Chinaman, who is as courteous and hearty in the greeting he offers them, as any well-bred gentleman should be. Immediately upon arrival, a cup of tea is drank and all sit down to enjoy a social chat and the fragrant fumes of choice cigars. Numerous Chinese guests are among the number present, most of whom converse in 232 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. English, and an hour is pleasantly passed in discussing various interesting topics. The main room where the table is spread, is gorgeously decorated in Oriental magnificence. Chinese lanterns of rich design are suspended from the ceiling and cast a warm glow over the room. "When all are seated around the board, they are invited to partake of the relishes, that are temptingly ar- ranged before them. These consist of a great variety of vege- tables, nuts, etc., among which are usually found, sweet cucumbers, salted almonds, melon seeds, pickled duck, eggs and ginger, called respectively by the Chinese, qui ying, hum yung, quachee, alp tain and keong. There are also lai chi and lung ngaln, species of nuts grown in China, and lettuce, celery and radishes. While the company are sharpening their appe- tites with these, the waiters (who are numerous) bring to each a very small glass of a bright red colored liquor, muo qui lo, which is very pleasant to the taste. This is a spirituous bever- age, extracted from rice, and flavored with attar of roses. Bird's-nest soup follows this, and after it course succeeds course until the stomach of a gourmand would be compelled to call out for rest, if every thing offered were eaten. Bird's- nest soup is a great delicacy with the Chinese. It is com- posed of a moss which birds use to build nests, ham, and the breast of chicken minced. "The birds' nests are obtained from Java, Sumatra, and the coast of Malacca. The nests are made of a delicate sea-moss, picked from the surface of the waves by a species of swallow. These birds build their nests upon precipitous cliffs, and the persons who gather them are let down from higher accessible points by ropes. "When the nests are secured, they are well cleaned, packed, and sent to Canton, where they are worth their weight in silver. By the time they reach San Francisco they are worth their weight in gold." The next course may be a stew of China terrapin shells, fla- vored with onions and seasoned with water chestnuts — called by the Chinese son suey. This is followed by hi ton yu dur — sharks' fins stewed with ham and eggs; or ten yue dice — rousted sucking pig, browned nicely; or cJtuen alp — boned duck, stewed with grated nuts, pearl barley and mushrooms; or fang lut m gy — chicken, stewed with chestnuts; or ho see — dried oysters boiled. A later course may be fen gnon — or roast Cantonese THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 233 goose ; or toon goo bak hop — tender mushrooms, with the one hundred layer leek ; or Chinese quail — very like the Califor- nia ; or cum chin kye — brochettes of chicken hearts ; or kum wah ham cha ho — California oysters fried in batter, with onions ; or fit yung chee — sharks' fins fried in batter ; or sut yue — pickled rock cod ; or cho coo bak hap moo goo — pigeon stewed with hundred layer leek and bamboo sprouts; or all, or each of these, and many others, following in almost endless succession. The dessert is very palatable, but except by the Chinese — who know how to apportion each course to the re- quirements of their appetites, and therefore get a share of each and everything that is served — it goes uneaten and almost un- tasted. It is a long series of fancy dishes, such as ha yak kow chee — fancy rice cakes, made in imitation of birds and flowers; hi ton ko — egg cake; hong you mo — corn starch, flavored with almond; chaivng — oranges; pinknon — apples; heong gav chew — bananas ; and po tie chee — grapes ; after which, cha — tea — is brought in small covered bowls, and served clear in very small china cups. Much that is set before the guests is insipid or offensive to the American taste, but so it is at any feast where a great variety is served. Some of the stews and roasts are remark- able for the fine flavor they retain after cooking, and the tea is superior to any that is prepared by other than heathen hands. The table ware is fine China pottery, and the cutlery is silver or heavy plate. Many dishes, on which certain kinds of food is served, are silver-plated. Instead of napkins, large white silk handkerchiefs are used. During dinner, the guests are agreeably entertained by the host and his assistants, and the hours pass pleasantly away. The host apparently delights in explaining the various dishes, oftentimes entering into minute details of Chinese cookery. Beef and potatoes are seldom offered at a Chinese feast. The Chinese look upon the killing, and using for food, of cattle, or buffaloes, as a very great sin, as they are valuable for beasts of burden. There is a tradition among them that says "the killers of beef shall endure punishment iu Hades after death. Some are tossed on knives, others on hills of swords. Some have red-hot iron poured down their throats, and others arc tied to rcd-liot posts. Through the eternal ages, they shall not be born again, or, if they are, they become buffaloes. Butchers have hearts 234 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. of iron, and those who raise buffaloes to kill for beef have hearts more wicked and fierce than wolves or tigers." To have potatoes for dinner is considered a sign of hardships and a mark of extreme poverty. A small opium room makes off from the dining hall. This is furnished luxuriantly, and those who desire to indulge in the time-killing drug may thither repair after dinner is over, and reclining at ease on a soft-cushioned couch, pass from the reality of splendid oriental surroundings into that dream-land where the heathen celestial so delights to roam — with the amber mouth-piece of a great sizzing opium pipe between his teeth, and a deathly palor on his face. COST OF LIVING. John Chinaman, if he chooses so to do, can exist comfort- ably (in the Chinese sense of the word) for twelve months for the small expenditure of seventy-five or one hundred dollars. But this necessitates a strict observance of the rules of econ- omy. He dare not squander a cent for any luxury whatever — even his daily whiff of opium must not be thought of, and his clothes must be of the most inferior quality when new, and worn until they are extremely shabby. His food also must be simple; rice and potatoes constituting the bulk, with an occa- sional slice of pork or fish, and some plain green vegetables. He must be his own cook and do his own washing, which duty, however, is not arduous, inasmuch as the material in either case is very scant. Thus do many of the Chinese of California live, day after day, month after month, but seldom year after year, for usually during the first year they accumu- late some money, and learn the art of increasing their capital more rapidly, so that they are enabled to expend more for food and raiment. So well do they understand how to make each cent extend their lease of life, that how they succeed in doing it is a matter of surprise and wonder to Americans. Ordinarily, a laboring Chinaman will spend about two hun- dred dollars a year for his living. His clothes during that time will cost him from twelve to eighteen dollars, and his board and lodging from two and one half dollars to three per week. This will leave him some extra money for contingen- cies. If every Chinaman had a family to su£>port he would have to demand for his services a price nearer to that white THE CHINESE OF SAN FRANCISCO. 235 laborers are compelled to ask, and therefore he would not be such a formidable competitor to meet. But in the whole Chinese population of the Pacific Coast States of America there are probably not more than three hundred men who have families. The persons who are so strongly opposed to having the Chinese among us may be content, for these already here to remain, if only they can succeed in having the immigration checked; for according to the natural order of things they will soon become extinct, because of not having the propa- gating element among them. 236 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. XXXII. CHINATOWN. ACQUISITION OF" TERRITORY — ECONOMY OF SPACE — THE BUSINESS HOUSES OF THE CHINAMEN — SIGN-BOARD LITERATURE. ACQUISITION OF TERRITORY. THE Chinese of San Francisco have chosen well the terri- tory they occupy. Chinatown proper, that is, the por- tion of the city where the Chinese constitute almost the entire population, consists of sections of two blocks each of Sacra- mento, Clay, Washington, Jackson and Pacific Streets, between Kearny and Stockton Streets; and Dupont Street from Sacra- mento to Pacific Streets, the whole comprising about nine blocks. In this territory a few whites are to be found, engaged in some small business, but the Chinese have monopolized almost all the business rooms, as well as the residence houses, and only that it is in the Occident, is it distinguished from an Oriental city. The few white stragglers that are met upon the streets are scarcely more numerous than would be found in any open seaport town in China, and they gaze about them with the same curiosity as do those who are visiting for the first time the cities of the Celestial Empire. Thus, in San Fran- cisco, it is but a step from the monuments and living evidences of the highest type of American civilization, and of Christi- anity, to the unhallowed precincts of a heathen race, where unmistakable signs of a contrasting civilization, are seen on every side. From the day that Wan Lee first displayed his abbreviated sign, Wash'ng and Iron'ng over the door of his laundry in Washington Street, Wah Lee, his brothers, and innumerable " cousins," have silently, gradually, and unceasingly continued to spread themselves out, over a larger area, until now they occupy exclusively, a number of blocks in what, would other- wise be, a choice business centre; besides having sent out thrifty tendrils that have taken fast hold in almost every block in the city. CHINATOWN. 237 Any building adjacent to one occupied by Chinese, is ren- Lered undesirable to white folks, and although the landlord may hold out inducements to white tenants and refuse any and all offers from Chinese, heavy taxes and no income from the pro- perty, will soon convince him that John's money is preferable to no money at all, and he finally succumbs to the pressure, and John Chinaman has gained another foothold. When once they have planted themselves in a building, the Chinese rapidly take root; and although they do not manifest any stubborness by refusing to vacate the premises, experience proves that they make themselves masters of the situation, and are seldom dispossessed. They simply make the building un- inhabitable for decent white folk. Their manner of living ac- complishes this, without any extra precaution on their part. They will divide the rooms into numerous diminutive compart- ments by unsightly partitions, and the smoke and rank odor from their open fires and opium pipes, discolors the ceilings and walls and renders the whole building offensive, both to sight and smell, so that the expense of renovating it would not be offset by the rental receipts for six months or a year. Thus by degrees do they gradually increase their domain silently and peacefully, without any cause for blame other than the habits and style of life, that is simply the outgrowth of their strange civilization, and for the evil or of good which they as individuals are not responsible. ECONOMY OF SPACE. Doubtless because of the overcrowded condition of the coun- try whence they come, the Chinese of San Francisco seem to think that America is likewise so densely populated, that every cubic foot of air must be economically utilized, and every inch of space profitably occupied. A family of five or six persons will occupy a single room, eight by ten feet in dimensions, wherein all will live, cook, eat, sleep, and perhaps carry on a small manufacturing business — apparantly comfortable, and show no signs of being cramped by the narrow limits that con- fine them. In the lodging houses (which are necessarily verv numerous), they huddle together and overlay each other, like a herd of swine that seeks shelter in a straw-pile on a cold winter night. The rooms of a lodging house are usually about ten by twelve feet in size, with a ceiling from ten to fifteen feet 238 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FEANCISCO. high. On two sides of the room (and sometimes on every side) bunks are placed one above another like those arranged in state-rooms of steamboats. In a room where the ceiling is of ordinary height there will be three or four of these bunks on a single side. These are all occupied as beds for sleeping, from floor to ceiling. A small rental rate for each occupant, yields a considerable sum for the room; it is, therefore, easily com- prehended, how a Chinaman can afford to work for less wages than a white man. Of an evening, the occupants of one of these small rooms,, gather about a common table in the centre, whereon burns a primitive oil taper, and indulge in a social game of chance, or light their opium and tobacco pipes, and what with smoking, gaming, and lounging on their bunks, they will pass a very pleasant hour in social enjoyments. Perchance there may be one among the number who can lightly finger the guitar, flute,. or violin; if so, the harsh strains of music, that are wafted in discordant waves on the sonorous air, together with the stifling^ odors from the burning weed and drug, dispels all care from the minds of the dreamy listeners, and in spirit they are borne hence to the home of their happy childhood; and again they roam among familiar fragrant bowers of their native " flowery land " — only returning to the realities of San Francisco life at being, collared by a policeman for violating the " cubic feet of air " ordinance, who in commanding tones says, " John, too muchee Chinaman in little room! Come with me, I show you." John remonstrates vociferously exclaiming "loom (room) all light (right) one — two — thlee (three) — Chinaman sleepee here (point- ing to the bunks) allee same Melican man sleepee — loom all light! " But John is carried off to the city prison where he is placed in closer quarters than he was in at his own peaceful domicile. But then the " pure air ordinance " is not supposed to apply to prisons, jails, and hospitals. In the shops and stores the same disposition to utilize all space is manifest, and at the laundries it is really wonderful what heaps and piles of dirty liuen and queer dressed China- men can be accommodated. A space in a wall of no greater dimensions than a large dry goods box furnishes ample room for ;i cigar stand ; and a cobbler will mend your shoes in an area window, or on an unused door step. Nothing goes to waste. Even the oxygen in the air is totally exhausted by re- CHINATOWN. 239 peated inhalings. The wonder is that the whole Chinese popu- lation is not carried off, as by the breath of a native simoon, by some epidemic disease. But strange to say, there is no more sickness among the Chinese, who live year after year in their close quarters and accumulating filth, than among the whites, who by every precaution recommended by science en- deavor to ward off disease. In Chinatown there is not a basement, cellar, area, dormi- tory, porch, loft, garret, or covered court, but teems with healthy Chinese inhabitants, night and day. The side- walks are monopolized by them, with their little tables of fruits, nuts, and cigars; the cobbler, tinner, chair-mender, and jack-of-all- trades, claim, by squatter right, a seat upon a box or door-sill, where to ply their trades; the alleys, lanes, and by-ways give forth dense clouds of smoke from the open fires, where cook- ing is performed, and the house-tops are white with drying garments, fluttering from the net-work of clothes-lines that are placed thereon by enterprising laundrymen. Even across narrow streets lines are thrown, upon which are placed to dry all manner of wearing apparel. THE BUSINESS-HOUSES OF THE CHINAMEN. There are few of the Chinese of San Francisco that own the premises they occupy. Few come to this country with the expectation of remaining permanently. This, with the fre- quent outbreaks among the white population against their presence and further Chinese immigration, very naturally pre- vents them from making investments in property that they cannot carry away at short notice, or readily dispose of at its full value. Therefore there are not many buildings erected by the Chinese, and the absence of the quaint Chinese architect- ure is remarked, where naught but Chinamen are seen upon the streets or in the houses, and every other surrounding is so suggestive of "Cathay." The additions they frequently make to houses, together with the signs, placards, and various gaudy ornaments with which the outer walls, windows, and doors, are bedizened, almost conceal the architectural style of the buildings; but when the attention is called to it, the handi- work of the Caucasian mechanic is discovered through the semi-transformation, and the delusion that this is an oriental city, in the Orient, is dispelled. Although when the business 240 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. blocks in Chinatown are completed, and turned over to the disposal of the proprietors, there are in them capacious store- rooms, light and airy, the Chinese occupants soon dispense with this luxury of ample room and good ventilation, by di- viding them up into small compartments and stalls, leaving scarcely room enough for their customers to comfortably make their purchases. There is not one well appointed store-room in Chinatown, according to the American notion of shop- keeping. They are all crowded with goods, from floor to ceiling; narrow counters, with scarce room enough for the salesman to pass to and fro behind them, are the rule, and rude shelves suspended from the ceilings, loaded with all manner of merchandise, obstruct the view and render the whole incommodious. But yet there is much order in the arrangements. Every article is kept in its particular place, and in all the apparent confusion there is complete system. "Whatever is desired from package or shelf, is readily found — each attendant knowing just where to put hands upon it. The show-windows are very poorly kept. They are used more for the store room they afford than for display. A mis- cellaneous variety of wares, indicating, somewhat, the stock-in- store, are placed in view from the street, but with little refer- ence to artistic or attractive arrangement. Two or three firms often occupy the same room, engaged in entirely different branches of trade; each, of course, confining itself to certain defined space, and all working together in the utmost har- mony. There are few merchants that are engaged in what we call exclusive trade, excepting the large tea and rice dealers; they nearly all carry a general stock. The business places of the money-changers and bankers partake somewhat of the dig- nity that attaches to our banking establishments, but the same disposition to economize space is manifested alike with them. Indeed, in whatever business or mechanical industry we find the Chinaman, he is hedged in on every side by his wares, so closely, that it seems impossible for him to accomplish any- thing; and were it not for the real evidences resulting from his efforts, that show for themselves, we would believe that his whole time was spent in planning how to reduce his living ne- cessities, how matter may exist without occupying space, and how life may be sustained without food, clothing, and air. CHINATOWN. 241 SIGN-BOARD LITERATURE. In passing through the Chinese quarter of San Francisco, we are not aware of the variety of wholesome "food for reflec- tion " that an intelligent Chinaman finds in those, to us, incom- prehensible characters that stand out so boldly, in gilt and black and red, on the many sign-boards and cards, over the doors, on the window-frames, and on the door-facings of the various shops and houses walling the street. Indeed, we are disposed to think our Chinese interpreter jesting, when he translates the meaning of some of the signs into our own lan- guage; and we very naturally reverse the old saying, "there is more truth than poetry in this;" so that our reflections may be expressed in the transposed sentence, there is more poetry than truth in their significance. Some of the signs are in English letters, and read as follows: Shun Wo, Wang Wo Shang, Hang Hi; but we pause to con- sider, when we are told that the warning words Shin Wo, according to the heathen understanding, express Faith and Charity — the very things that above all else we should be familiar with and practice, instead of shun. Hang Hi ! When these simple words meet our gaze, our imagination reveals to us in vivid outline, "two posts a-stand-ent, a beam across-ent, a rope suspend-ent, and (perhaps) a Chinaman on the end-ent/' and a reasonable conclusion is, that within is the sacred tem- ple of Justice. Our surprise is therefore considerable, when we learn that Hang Hi is " the sign of prosperity." Likewise, our active brain misled our reason, when, because of the words Sing, Sang, Sung, occurring over the door of a modest little building, we at once remarked to our companion, that "there is the strongest evidence of true civilization — the school-house, wherein is nurtured and cultivated the germ of power." By seeing those words — the different forms of the verb sing — memories of our childhood days, and the hard struggles we had passed through in the vain endeavor to learn the rules of conjugation, comparison, etc., were awakened, and we imme- diately concluded that this was a grammar school. Forgetting the possibility of a misapplication of these mot- toes, there is a poetic beauty in them that becomes quaint from peculiar association. Over the doors of the wholesale houses may be seen, Kwong On Cheang — extensive peace and affluence; Hip Wo — mutual help and concord; Tin Yak — 16 242 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. heavenly jewel; Tang Cheung — unitedly prospering; Man Li — ten thousand profits; and Yan On Cheung — benevolence, peace, and affluence. The apothecaries display, besides their regular sign, "The hall of approved medicines of every province and of every land," various other signs, suggesting the good results ob- tained from the use of their medicines, as, "The hall of ever- lasting spring; 5 ' "Hall of relief; 5 ' "Live forever;" and "Great life hall." Doctors announce on their doors and windows that they will ' c cure disease by feeling of the pulse and pre- scribing proper mdicines," near by which may be seen "health and strength." The clothing stores show a sign "new clothes, shoes, stock- ings, and caps," and the motto or name of the shop may be "Union and peace;" or "Elegant and ornamental." The restaurants give their mottoes as spicy a flavor as possi- ble. In addition to the common restaurant sign — "Man- chou and Chinese animal and vegetable food, by the meal; with wine, diversions, and entertainments" — is seen the tempt- ing notice, "Fragrant almond chamber," "Chamber of the odors of distant lands," "Garden of the Golden Valley," or "Balcony of joy and delight." The butcher is no less poetical, for, after announcing that he is prepared to furnish ready roasted, the "golden hog," he indulges in the ennobling sentiments: "Virtue, harmony, and constant faith." "Let each have his due," says the red sign over the base- ment entrance, where the pawn-broker keeps his curiosity- shop, and the cigar dealer bids all to come to the " Fountain of Kighteousness " and "Fountain of the most Excellent," whilst across the way, at the lottery, is the extraordinary an- nouncement, "Winning Hall — to be lucky is to be happy." Thus the poetic vein runs through every department of trade, whether reputable or disreputable. The red paper- sign at the gambling house bids all to "get rich." "Come in, the skin is spread; straight enter the winning doors." In the business houses, various signs are pasted on the walls. Some similar to what is seen in many stores kept by Ameri- cans: " One price to all;" " Honest goods and honest men," etc. At the residence houses also are pasted in conspicuous places, sometimes very sensible and appropriate mottoes, such CHINATOWN. 243 as " Domestic harmony is domestic bliss;" "Peace and happi- ness is here," and "Discord bringeth strife." All this would seem to be antagonistic to the nature of this practical people, but it is custom. Educated men are frequently consulted with regard to these mottoes and signs, so as to have them as appropriate as possible. A sort of religious ceremony is performed, when a sign is placed in position— a dedicatory service, wherein the signs are blessed, and blessings and pros- perity are invoked for the establishment. 244 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FRANCISCO. XXXIII. BUSINESS EABITS OF THE CHINESE. AN ENTERPRISING HACE FAVORITE PURSUITS APTNESS CHINESE EXCLUSIVELY TAXPAYING, AN ENTERPRISING RACE. THE Chinese are proverbially industrious and enterprising. The dashing enterprise that characterizes the American — the reckless spirit that pushes out so boldly to win all or lose all — is not seen in the Chinese; but that constant plod- ding and dogged perseverance that progresses "slow but sure," is their distinguishing trait. In whatever capacity they are employed, they are as regular as clock-work. There is no flurry and worry with them; no irregular cogwheels in their mechanism, that causes them to go by fits and starts; but day after day, week after week, and year after year, they pursue evenly and systematically their calling. When a laborer is told what he is required to do, and what remuneration he will receive therefor, if he accepts the terms, he will do that much and no more; but his employer must likewise be as exact in performing his part of the agreement. As an eight-day clock will cease to mark the time at the end of eight days, unless the "winding up" process is promptly per- formed, so certainly will a Chinaman cease to perform any work he has agreed to do, unless he receives his pay promptly at the appointed time. He seems to fully understand how much he can endure, and he therefore will work so fast and no faster. He is regular in his habits, arising and retiring, eating and resting, each day at regular hours, with extreme precision. Indeed, there is no variation in his conduct from day to day; his labor, his rest, and his life is rendered as monotonous as though he were a simple machine, passiouless, and propelled by an unintelligent motor. This faithfulness makes him valu- able as a laborer, and therein is the secret of his preferment by capital. BUSINESS HABITS OF THE CHINESE. 245 The Chinese do not indulge in speculative business where there is much risk, to any great extent; but so persistent are they in anything they undertake, that they seldom fail of suc- cess. They follow the maxim "live within your means, etc.," and when once established in any business that yields an ordi- nary profit, time is only wanting to bring to them wealth. In San Francisco there are few that make money rapidly, but many are on the highway to fortune. In fact, almost every healthy Chinaman on the Coast is engaged in some business that Avill eventually lift him above dependence, unless unfor- seen misfortune should come upon him. The great drain upon their resources — and what keeps many of them in impoverished circumstances — is the aged relatives at home, to whom they feel it is their most sacred duty to give their earnings. So great is their devotion to them that they deny themselves every lux- ury, and many times curtail the expense for the actual neces- saries of life, that they may thereby place and Jseep their aged kindred in comfortable circumstances. FAVORITE PURSUITS. Apparently, it is as natural for a Chinaman as a Jew to engage in some mercantile pursuit. Buying, selling and trad- ing is their national characteristic, and it seems to be the chief ambition of the Chinese of San Francisco to establish them- selves in some business involving traffic and trade. Shop- keeping seems to be their favorite occupation; but if they are unable to maintain a "fixed " establishment, they can generally raise funds enough to stock a peddling-basket, and instead of sitting back on their dignity, awaiting patronage, choose a route, and b} r going from door to door find enough customers to gratify their mercantile desire, and perhaps yield them a small surplus besides. We therefore find many of them en- gaged in peddling various fancy China articles, boots and shoos, vegetables and fish, throughout the entire city, even into the sparsely populated suburbs, besides the great number of merchants and tradesmen in the centre of the "Chinese quarter." To a stranger, the vegetable and fish markets in the oily, at early morning, is a most peculiar and interesting spectacle. Be- sides the Italian huckster-wagons that almost block the streets, the Chinese peddlers, with their baskets or panniers suspended 246 LIGHTS AND SHADES IN SAN FBANCISCO. from either end of a bamboo pole, throng the street, the walks, and the stalls, in confusing numbers. All are anxious to be off on their oft' trod routes, and the havoc that they make of the vegetables and fish, is only equalled by their merciless slaughter of the u Queen's English." The variety of vegeta- bles they require makes the scene more confusing; for they are hurrying hither and thither, taking a few pounds of this, a bunch of that, and a box of another kind, all the while keep- ing up an incessant jabber amongst themselves, as well as constantly repeating the query, " how muchee you sell him?" And then, too, how skillfully they arrange their stock in the capacious baskets! There are trays, boxes, and bags, appa- rently thrown in without any reference to classification, but placed with wonderful compactness. When the supply is ob- tained, and everything arranged in order, they stoop and place their shoulder beneath the pole, and, after a trial or two, suc- ceed in balancing it, when away they go, at a rapid, swinging gait, puffing and panting, but never slacking their pace. Some of these peddlers, when they start out on their rounds, carry as much as one hundred and fifty pounds. After they have reached their first customer, the weight gradually decreases, until by noon, or shortly after, they have almost, if not en- tirely, exhausted their stock, and they return to their rooms or lodging-places, almost fainting from fatigue. Many of them obtain their supply of vegetables from the Chinese vegetable gardeners in the suburbs of the city. There is probably no city in the world where families obtain their vegetables and fish with as little trouble as in San Francisco. Each vegeta- ble vendor has his regular customers, and if he fails to tap on the kitchen door any day in the year except Sunday, it is gen- erally because he has abandoned himself to the holida} r festiv- ities, or has been stricken down by a vicious hoodlum. The New Year's greeting of the Chinese,