,^^ -^c^. 4> '% o^«, //^O, ■0^ X -P O- o xO°<, /,- X* ,x -/ ^ - ^ -O .^- V . n -'-;^ * « ' ^ " - \ ^^V^' ,-.S^ ^^. ^ t^ ^ ' ■" ^ .XN>^' ^ ^ ■ / .^ % "^ \ ..> V I •^ '^■'./ R O \. <^ " ^ K ^ ■^ •> * K ^ ^^^ .O^ f o /^ * a 1 -^ \ V\s^'^'^ > ^ " .^■.'~^^^ <^' .^■.'^:v.. ^ '% ^^ ■' H« o"^ ^^' ^-^ .^ vV < cS <^ c « ^ ^ -? , '^O, cP^-. -^^ o^ V- r xO o. '-r^^^fttp://www.archjve.org/details/sketchek)ftravelOOi bo "^ ^r> .v\^' ■^ ■^. c.'^ U^. and encircled bj an enipalement of bronze. After fil- ling the lowest basin, the water disappears under the pavement, and is carried by aqueducts to supply other fountains. Nearly all the statues that ornament this beau- tiful building have been violently defaced or mutilated. Many of the noses, ears, fingers, kc. have been broken oflT. On enquiring, the cause, I was told that the mis- chief had been done by an incendiary from Messena. Som« statues in that city were defaced by an unknown hand, but as the people believed by a Palermitan, who envied them their ornaments. As an act of retaliation, some person from Messena has avenged himself upon the the statues of Palermo. 11. — Brydone in his account of Sicily, says that this city contains more than 300 churches. I have spent the day in visiting the most remarkable of them, and have been astonished at their riches and magnificence. In two or three, the ornamental work about the altars must have cost more than any single building I ever before examin- ed. The inside of the church which forms a part of the Ottongola, is entirely covered with sculptured mar- ble and precious stones. Upon the walls, the beautiful variegated marble is wrought into ornaments, in which the different colours are made to produce the effect of painting. This kind of work must have been immensely expen- sive; but whether it be in good or bad taste, I must not at present venture to judge. In this and in all the churches, the most expensive and elaborate works is.? 33 marble, as well as the greatest profasion of g-old and sif- ver furniture, are to be seen around the altars. In general I observed that there was less labor and ex- pense bestowed upon the external ornaments of churches, than would be expected from the g-reat wealth of the in- terior. The old cathedral is almost the only church, with an open space around it. They are usually incorporated with the blocks of buildings with which they are united. The doors were all open during the first hours of the day, and in every instance I was allowed to enter unchallenged except by beggars. I could usually determine by tlie number of Lazzaroni at the door, whether the church within was magnificent or otherwise. 12. — The mendicity of this city is a painful subject of every day and every hour's observation. It is not pos- sible for a stranger to detect at once many of its latent causes. Some of them indeed readily occur to the most superficial observer. The mildness of the climate enables the poor to subsist without shelter or clothing. In consequence of an excessive population, many are neces- sarily without employment. The lowest class have no education, and their system of religion is not calculated to expand the mind, or to teach them that freedom of thought which induces men of all ranks in our country to explore their own resources, or enables them to rise above conditions of dependence. Be the causes what they may, we can never go from our apartments without being assailed by beggars, and ihey are so importunate, that it is impossible to avoid giving. We find it necessary to furnish ourselves for this purpose, with the lowest denomination of copper coin. They are satisfied with the smallest trifle, yet 34 knowing" us to be foreigners, will not leave ns nntil we give them something-. The Sicilian gentlemen treat these miserable beings with much apparent kindness, and if they refuse their petitions, they do it without expressions of impatience or contempt. Many of the Lazzaroni are young ; apparently healthy, and do not seem to have injured themselves by intem- perance. Under rags and filth, a fine form may frequent- ly be discovered, which might stand as a model for a statuary. As a faithful traveller it is incumbent on me to men- tion fleas, those blood thirsty foes to the peace of stran- gers, which no one can hope to escape. So many of these insects are upon us, that we find it entirely in vain to at- tempt to destroy or dislodge them. It is necessary to submit to their attacks with what patience we can com- mand. We do indeed sometimes escape them during the night, by wrapping ourselves in clean linen, and ascend- ing our high beds in such a manner as to carry none of our enemies along with us. If the bed stands at a con- siderable distance from the wall, and has not previously been occupied, we usually escape without being much disturbed. Being confined to-day by incessant rain, I feel a little inclined to dwell upon the evils of our within door estab- lishment. I have no carpet under my feet, and the floor of my chamber is laid with tiles. The windows are deep and small, much like the grates of a prison. My fire burns or rather dies in a brazen basin; and when brought in glows for a moment, destroys the elasticity of the air, and leaves me shivering with cold and oppressed with head ache. Yet it is so cool that a fire is indisp^"- 35 sable. Such are all the evils I can now find " to tor- ment me withal," even when I sit down determined to complain. LETTER IV. // Colla — Villa Favorite — The Olive — Scenery — Stone quarries Aqueducts La Bagaria Palace of Prince Polonia — Queen's palace — Scenery. Dec. 13. — The fine country to the south and west of Palermo, extending to the foot of the mountains, is called II Colla. A ride of eight or ten miles in a circuitous direction, carried us over a country of much beauty of scenery, and variety of cultivation. We passed many palaces and villas, each distinguished by some peculiar elegance. The Villa Favorite, is a summer residence of the Vice Roy of Sicily, and is built in the style of Chi- nese edifices. The palace is painted in various bright colours, and the whole of its decorations are so unlike any edifice in its neighborhood, that it attracts the attention of all by its singularity. My companions disliked the style of the buildings, and complained of the whimsical effect of 9very thing connected with them. The parks and gardens are extensive, and ornament- ed with statues, fountains, and the numerous shrubs and trees peculiar to the climate. The orange and lemon are covered with fruit. The a!mond is now in bloom ; a few trees are without leaves or blossoms. A- mong tiiese I observed the fig, which in size and shape is not unlike the common pear tree. As we approached the mountains, we observed the olive planted in extensive 36 orchards, like the apple in America. The olive is ever*= green, and at this season, adds greatly to the rich and verdant appearance of the country. Scattered orchards of this valuable tree are to be seen in all directions upon the plain, but rough and steep places are best adapted to its growth. On the sides of hills and mountains they nearly exclude all other trees. On account of its value, the olive is protected by law, and no man can destroy it, even upon his own grounds, without the permission of government. The tree is hardy, of slow growth, and great longevity. It is confidently stated that some orchards are now flourishing which were planted by the Saracens* A small grove was pointed out to us whose history, we were well assured, could be traced back a thousand years. This tree never acquires great size or height. The top is large and branching. Its decay commences at the root, and in some instances I observed the trunk cleft in two or three parts, each supporting its tuft of green foliage. The plain, throughout its whole extent, is highly cul- tivated. The roads are narrow, traversing it in various directions, and separated from the fields by walls, in many places so high as to intercept the view of the surrounding country. All the habitations, except the palaces, are small and filthy. In all places we met beggars, and before every door saw men and women covered with filth, and lousing one another. The country in every direction is enlivened with groves of orange, lemon, and a great variety of other fruit trees, which are planted in clumps, and have the varied appearance of forests. The moun- tains rise abruptly above the plain, with a bold and in- discribable beauty. 37 Ou oiu* return, we stopped to examine the stone quar- ries which furnish the building materials for the city. They are situated in the plain, near the " Villa Favorite." A great number of laborers were employed in sawing the stone, and in cutting it into proper masses for building. Before it is removed from the pit, it is soft, but hardens on exposure. It consists of an aggregate of sand and marine shells. The water which supplies the fountains of Palermo is carried across this part of the country in aqueducts, which are laid under ground. Our attention was directed to a number of buildings of a pyramidical shape, which we found, on examination, to contain earthen tubes filled with water, and connected as reservoirs with the subter- ranean aqueducts. The pipes are about twelve inches in circumference, and made of burned clay, but are harder and of a finer quality than the same kind of ware, manu- factured in America. These tubes are so placed in the pyramids as to constitute the principal mass of the buildings. They are from 30 to 60 feet in height. We passed fifteen or twenty of these singular hydraulic ma- chines. We were much surprized that earthen ware, which is so soon crumbled to dust by the severe frosts of New- England, should be found sufficiently durable to be used in an extensive series of reservoirs above ground. 14, — La Bagaria is eight miles north-east, but in full view of Palermo ; situated on the opposite side of that part of the bay which extends before the Marina. The road is not so good, nor the country so rich, as we passed yesterday in our ride to II Colla. The village of La Ba- garia consists of a small cluster of miserable houses and D 38 three or four splendid palaces, whose possessors reside at Palermo during the winter. When we looked at this place from the Marina, we thought it a considerahle city. It is so situated that every thing seems magnified from that point of view. The palace of the Prince Polonia, was mentioned to us as one of its principle objects of curiosity. We found it as whimsical and extravagant as represented by Brydone, The six hundred statues which he describes, are now di- minished to about one hundred, and placed around a fountain, or on the roofs of some small buildings near the palace. They are sculptured in coarse, perishable stone, and time is rapidly demolishing them. In the col- lection still remaining, there is not a single statue which represents any living thing ; but all are monsters — the strange creation of the builder, whose imagination seems to have been solely bent upon producing combinations odious to the eye, and outrageous to the established laws of nature. On entering the palace, every thing surprizes as much ^s its exterior decorations. The floor of one of the prin- cipal apartments is made with all the beautiful varieties of Sicilian marble, cut in diamond shape, and finely pol- ished. The ceiling over head, and the sides of the room, are lined with foiled glass, and with marble so highly polished that the apartment presents a reflecting surface, which multiplies its own ornaments in a thousand forms. Another saloon is finished with more expensive mate- rials, and in a more ridiculous style. To the fine marble and foiled glass are added, columns, arches and urns, formed with various articles of China ware : such as tea- 39 s pots, cups, saucers and plates, piled one upon another, and secured in their places with cement. The furniture of this apartment is magnificently rich, and the profusion of precious stones employed in its vari- ous decorations, of incalculable value. An universal want of good taste however is most obvious. Possibly the design of the builder is accomplished in attracting the attention and producing the astonishment of every spec- tator. At a palace near this, called the Queen's Palace, we experienced a different kind of surprize and delight in observing the good taste, and fitness of every thing. The buildings are simple in design, and though less costly than those we had just left, combine convenience and elegance. The view from the garden exceeds any thing of the kind \ have ever seen. Language, painting, or the imagination, cannot do justice to this delightful pros- pect. The fertile gardens and splendid palaces of I a Bagaria, are as full of enchantment as the fairest creaticu of the fancy of Tasso or Milton. Near these fields of Paradise, are bare rocks and bold precipices, ornamented with statues, chisselled into walks or covered with vines, as wealth and taste may have dictated. A-t a distance, the verdant valley is closed by rugged mountains, rising point over point till their snow clad summits reach the skies. At the utmost verge of the clear horizon we can distinguish the white top of Etna. The sea and the Li- pari Isles bound the prospect on the left. We hastened back to Palermo before it was quite dark, our servant and driver frequently reminding us, that there was the greatest danger of banditti, in passing the solitaryf road after <5uuset. 4Q LETTER V. Sabbath — An excursion— Lizards— -Insects — Vineyard)^ — Prickly pear — Public Square — The Opera — Ride to Mont Reale — -Cathedral Monastery Land- scape, Palermo, December 15. Su7iday.'— The religious exercises at the churches are nearly the same on the Sabbath as on other days. After morning mass, the people repair to the Marina, the gardens, and other places of amusement. The weal- thy, and fashionable, appear with their best equipages* On no occasion is the Marina so crowded, yet a regard to the day produces a decorum of manners which con- stantly reminds us of the Sabbath. The Palermilans consider it a holiday, and observe it as a day of rejoicing. The priests mingle with the gay multitude, and cheer- fulness and good ovdev universally prevail. 1 Uis, they consider the proper method of observing the Sabbath. As a sense of guilt never intrudes upon their amusements, they are not liable to indulge in them to great excess. At 2 o'clock the Corso was fitted up like a vast saloon for the reception of company, and the balconies unusually crowded. While religious processions were passing, we were sorry to observe the shops open, and merchandize hawked about the streets. The fountains had been open- ed, as is customary in fair weather, and the water made to overflow the pavements ; producing an agreeable fresh ■= ness of the air. All v.'as cheerfulness and gaity. Even the beggars surrounded us with unusual and triumphant importunity, as if they expected that all men would be charitable on this happy day. II We rode yn the morning into tlie rich and beautiful country, which extends to the eastward of Mont Reale. The views are more confined and limited, by the moun- tains, than on any road we have before taken ; yet from this circumstance, derive a character of sohtude, and quiet, which induced us to prefer this, before all the excursions in the neighborhood, except that to La Ba- garia. We stopped by the side of a small stream which h almost concealed by its high banks, and a thick growth of native shrubs. Every thing we observed, was calculated to remind us that we were in a foreign land. The thicket was filled with plants we had never before seen, and with strange va- rieties of reptiles and insects. The lizard, an animal un- known in the northern part of America, darted from eve- ry wall and crevice of the rocks. The beetk, the locust and the earthworm, were much larger than I had before seen, I made prisoner a grass-hopper, which seemed t<) have lately passed, from the larva state, and was indeed a giant. The lizards vary in weight from a [aw grains, to five or six ounces. They are fond of basking in the sun, and can be always seen if approached with cau- tion, on the sunuy side of walls, rocks, and every thing that can defend them from the wind. They are usually of a bright green colour, with white or yellow stripes on the back. When disturbed, they dart quick- ly out of sight, but soon return to the same place. They are very rapid in their motions, running without difficulty in all directions on the smooth sides of walls. There is something in the shape and appearance of this animal extremely disgusting, but we are told it is entire ly harm- Jess, and considered here as a favorite. The vineyards »2^ 42 W8 passed were so closely pruned, we supposed them fallow grounds, until I found by walking through them, that the short stalk of the vine was preserved, but so small we could not see the rows, from the road. The fields of wheat look finely. The prickly pear abounds in all waste places, and by the sides of the road. The olives cover the hills like forests. 16. — Looking from the window of our hotel, we have a view of the largest square in the city. It is an open area of about two acres, not ornamented with trees, foun- tains, or statues. It is not a place of resort for fashionable people, yet we frequently see it filled with the motly mass of population, exhibiting in a remarkable degree, the grotesque and peculiar manners, which distinguish the people of Palermo. At this moment a number of groupes are amusing themselves with a game which resembles the common play of marbles, except that balls are used, of the size of the common wicket ball. The market people, carrying baskets u'^on their heads, are crying their articles, with voices loud, shrill, and an octave higher than I have been accustomed to hear the cries of men. Nearly all the well dressed persons, belong to the various orders of monks. When engaged in conversation both priests and beggars, make use of such constant and violent gesticulation, that Mrs. A. has thought them quarreling ; yet their manner is without exception, graceful. Children acquire it before they can articulate ; even the dirty and half clothed off- spring of the Lazzaroni, use proper gestures, as they prat- tle from the basket on their mother's shoulders. All seem to be full of vivacity as if electrified — and busy, though ^se can discover no indications of serious employment. 43 In the evening" we followed the tide which was flowing' towards the opera. The favorite performer at present is Madam Dardanella. The opera is the darhng amusement of the Sicilians, and music the art in which they have most excelled as well in ancient, as in modern times. The merit of Madam 1>. we understand is a theme of most serious moment, and excites as much interest as any topic at Palermo. She undoubtedly excels all others of her profession here, and though no connoisseurs we have of*- ten listened to her voice with great satisfaction. The performance of this evening, was probably, of the highest order. Notwithstanding the vast superiority of Madam Dardanella, no part seemed deficient. The auxiliaries all contributed to the general effect, while the chief interest and pleasure followed the heroine without violence or dis- traction, as she had no competitor. The company re>- niained silent, and grave, as if serious business had been in hand. When Madam D. made her greatest and most successful efforts, there was a low murmur of applause, and two or three shouts of ' bravo.* The Palermitaus never hiss ; never express, loudly, their applause. During the interludes a person carried cold water and cakes through the avenues, crying " Aqua gelata,"* which was the only refreshment offered. Mr. P. and myself took a second box, where we had a good oppor- tunity to see both actors and audience. The pit was filled with well dressed young men ; the stillest, the most gen- tlemanly in appearance, and the most graceful in man- ners we had ever seen on a similar occasion. Madam Dardanella adds to astonishing compass of voice, a per- son of uncommon beauty and elegance. With inimitable * Cold water. 44 grace she floated like a spirit before the gazing' multi- tude, charming all souls to silence. 17. — ^Mont Reale, which contains five or six thousand inhabitants, is seven miles from Palermo. It takes its* name from the mountain on which it is situated. The road to this village has been built at immense expense, and is supported ia many places upon arclied walls, of solid masonry. In consequence of the steepness of the mountain, the road ascends in zigzags. At the angles are placed fountains, ornamented with sculptured mar- ble, like those at Palermo. On the declivity of the mountain are some fine situations, to which, as to Mont Reale, the wealthy Palermitans retire during the heat of summer. The elevated situation of this village ren- ders it cool and salubrious. The palaces are not so splen- did as those at La Bagaria, and from the appearance of the buildings generally, we judged it could not be so much frequented, as a summer residence. What princi- pally attracted our curiosity and observation, was the Cathedral, one of the most ancient churches of Sicily, The building was injured two years ago by a fire which destroyed a part of the roof. Repairs were soon com- menced, and the work is still progressing. Nearly the whole of the inside of the church was covered with Mo- saic, pieces of which, the workmen had thrown down upon the pavement, and we were enabled to examine the ma^ teriai of which it was made. It proved to be coloured glass, not stone as we had supposed. The pieces which were wrought into the largest pictures, were about one fourth of an inch square, and either coloured or gilt. The gilding was defended by a thin film of glass like the glaz^ ing upon porcelaiD, The design of these Mosaic paist- 45 ings is uniformly bad, and consists of bare outlines, which indicates their antiquity. The quantity of this work was so great that it nearly covered the walls and roof of this vast edifice. The doors of the church are of bronze, covered with well executed has relievos ; the floors of polished marble ; the altars of rich materials and ex- quisite workmanship. The g-alleries rest upon corinlhian columns consisting- of single sliafts of g^ranite. Every ornament, in a corresponding style of magnificence, is rendered venerable and imposing by age. A wealthy monastery is attached to tl;e churcli. We were permitted to walk through a few of its numerous apartments. At the entrance we were showed a histori- cal picture on canvass, representing king William the good, discovering the hidden treasure of his father. This is the first good painting we have seen, and we must not doubt its value, since we are assured that 20,000 guineas have been lately refused for it. 1 cannot vouch for the truth of this statement, nor am 1 sufficiently acquainted with paintings to form the least idea of its merit. The erection of churches, temples and convents, like those we have viewed, must have required incalculable expendi- tures. How can so much money have been supplied in a country of small incomes, and limited commerce ? By taxes upon superstition and credulity; the sale of indulgencies, confiscations, tythes, and other revenues of the church. The pomp of the cathoHc religion requires that its temples should possess grandeur, and its observances have per- petuated a taste for magnificence in edifices and orna- ments. When we left the church we were surrounded with beggars, so that it was not without considerable diffi- culty and delay we made our way through them. As 1 46 was putting my hands into my pockets for biocos, my hat blew off, and I was so crowded by the Lazzaroni that I could not stoop to pick it up, but was under the neces- sity of waiting until it was handed to me. From the brow of the mountain as we returned, we had an extensive view of the bay of Palermo, the city, and the surrounding country ; but from a situation too elevated, as it gave to the landscape before us something of the flat and spiritless appearance of a map. The view is more extensive, but not so pleasing as that from la Bagaria, as there, you are nearly on the same level with the scenery, a part being above and a part below. The nearness of objects gives them life and realiiy. LETTER VI. Table talk — Churches — Situation of Palermo — Genera al sketch of streets, market Sy ^"c. Palermo, December 19, 20. We have been confined one day by rain, and accepted an invitation to dine, which has marred another. We met an English party at Mr. I's. Mr. !. is a bachelor, and lives in a hired dwelhng, yet an amount of expen- diture which would not be considered great in any of our cities, enables him to occupy a palace. Our enquiries on this feubjfcct satisfied us that rents, and all expenses of living, are remarkably low. A foreign merchant has lately been detected in an ex- tensive fraud upon the custom-house. The English gen- tlemen here say that this will cost the delinquent fifteen thousand ounces for bribes. They speak of bribina; judges and commissioners as if it were a thing* of course, and greet the accused asc,if nothing had happened. Our late consul, Mr. Gibbs, was a man of great influence, and had more dependents than any private individual in the island. At one time he could command more money than the Sicilian government, and was in the habit of loaning it large sums. His affairs became unexpectedly embarrass- ed, and before any one had supposed him in failing cir- cumstances, he put an end to his own life. Such a dis- graceful catastrophe was not sufficient to obliterate the favorable impression which his numerous and extensive business transactions had produced. The Sicilians, the Americans, and the English, still speak in the highest terms of his talents and character. The English do not speak favorably of the Palermitan merchants, or the gov- ernment. 1 he foreigner above alluded to who has com- mitted the fraud upon the custom-house, is said to com- bine the steadiness of an Englishman with the knavery of a Sicilian. 21. — We spent the morning in visiting churches, and palaces, in company with an English gentleman, who has resided several years in this city. We commenced with the Cathedral, and spent as much time in this and other remarkable edifices, as our plan for the day would permit. I fear that 1 shall entirely fail, in an attempt to commu- nicate any of the interest which is naturally felt in view- ing these splendid temples. The cathedral, or mother church, is the most remarkable of these buildings, but its external appearance is so unlike any edifice known to you and myself, that I can recollect no comparison in America. The style of the architecture is irregular, be- 48 mg a mixture of the Grecian orders, and Saracen. The entire exterior is of hewn stone. The ornaments are minute, and the general outline so compUcated, that it ap- pears like a pile of small edifices. On entering it we found the interior divided into three aisles, or more properly two aisles and a nave. The aisles are separated from the nave by columns which sup- port the galleries. There are no pews or seats. The floor is of polished marble. A second open space like the nave crosses the first, be- fore it reaches the end of the church opposite to the door, and gives the area of the edifice the form of a latin cross ; this is called the transept. At the extremity of the nave is the principal altar, elevated a few steps above the pave- ment, and ornamented with precious stones, columns of marble, and the richest furniture of the church. At each extremity of the transept are altars, less elevated and deco- rated with comparatively less magnificence, which are used on ordinary occasions. The high altar is reserved for oc- casions of ceremony. In some instances there are other altars by the side of the aisles ; if in deep recesses, they are called chapels. Funeral monuments are placed in every part of the churches, except near the altars, where Ro sculpture is admitted, unless it be purely ornamental. The monuments of kings, princes, and patron saints, are placed in the cathedral, at the foot of the nave. The baptismal fount is also in this part of the church. In every church we saw confessional chairs. They are made of wood, with high backs and sides, having ear holes where the confessor listens, while the penitent whis- pers his confession. 49 The doors of the dmrch are open every day until even- ing, and people go in at all times to worship. After having touched the holy water and crossed themselves, they kneel in silence before the altars. Tliere are no seats. I have not heard a sermon on any occasion, or any rehgious exercise except the mass. The churches are always neat, and perfumed with incense. No one enters without demonstrations of awe and respect, or pre- sumes to interrupt the profound silence of the sanctuary. Even the Lazzaroni uncover and cross themselves at the threshold of the door. There is a similarity in the design of all the churches. The less magnificent are copies of the greater churches, and very few are without some rich furniture or sculp- tured marble. The devout worshipper may forget, in the presence of elegance and magnificence, that he is himself poor, filth}'^, and miserable. Judging from the appear- ance of people in the churches, I should think them ex- tremely devout. 22. — Palermo is one mile square, situated on a plain, and the streets intersect one another at right angles. The walls are thirty-five or forty feet in height, and firmly built. The four principal gates opening into the largest streets, are situated equidistant upon the four sides of the city. There are few buildings outside of the walls ; of course the population, consisting of two hundred thousand souls, is crowded into a small compass. The streets are flagged, narrow, and without side walks. It is unneces- sary to say that every corner is full of people to overflow- ing. The lanes and narrow passages are seldom neat. Mechanics, with a few exceptions, are classed, and each trade located in a particular section of the city. In one £ 50 place blacksmiths occupy every building on each side of the way ; ia another workers in wood, exclude every other trade. Stone-cutters, sculptors and jewellers are thus arranged, to the great convenience of those who pur- chase manufactured articles, and the good order and neat- ness of the city. In the markets a want of cleanliness is universal. Meat is usually sold by persons who carry quarters or sides upon their shoulders, in many instances hanging to the ground and dangling in the mud. New bread is piled in heaps upon the flagstones, which having been overflowed in the morning, are covered with filth. Mud, cast away vegetables, fragments of fish, and oth- er unclean things, accumulate under foot, making the most unseemly combination imaginable. We have always observed a variety of fish in the mar- kets, an abundance of eggs ; fresh butter, though not in plenty, artichokes, cauliflowers, and other vegetables. The meats are poor, but abundant ; wild game plenty, cheap and excellent. We have lately seen green pease, though they are scarce. At this season the fruits are, apples, grapes, figs, prick- ly pears, pomegranates and strawberries. Oranges are not yet ripe, though we have seen them in the market v^ithin a few days. Grapes and figs have been long kept and are therefore scarce and dear. . Hearing by accident of an English brig in the harbor bound directly to Catania, I have concluded to avail my- self of the opportunity which it aifords of visiting that part of Sicily. On my return perhaps I shall again re- sume the exhaustless subject of Palermo. 51 LETTER VII. Departure from Palermo — Faro of Messena — Cala- brian and Sicilian coasts — Messeyiafrom the Faro — Etna— Sicilian coast and Etna^ views of- — Arrival at Catania — First view of Catania — Convent of St, Nocoloso. Brig Hero, off" Faro of Messena, (Scylla and Gharybdis) Dec. 25. On the morning of the 24th instant I embarked in the Hero, Capt. Keith, for Catania. The weather was favor- able, and at 12 o'clock last night we were so near the Faro of Messena, that our Palermitan pilot thought it pru- dent to lie to until day light. We are now, G o'clock, m sight of Scylla. 5 P. M. The wind was fair and we made for the Faro under easy sail. When about three miles distant wo could perceive the roughness and agitation of the v^atfr, The Rock Scylla is on the Calabrian side. It is a steep promontory projecting into the sea. The vortex Charyb- dis is on the Sicilian side near Messena, and five or si^v miles from Scylla. Opposite Scylla, at the distance of three miles is a low point, on the extremity of which is a round light tower by the Greeks called Faro. Hence the name of the pass. On the same side we observed a clus- ter of fishermen's huts, and on the summit of Scylla a for- tress covering a small village. The Calabria u shore is mountainous and more bold than the opposite coast. Messena is situated twelve miles from Scylla, at the south- ern extremity of the Faro. We felt a degree of triumph as we entered this celebrated pass, on account of our per- fect security. It presents no terrors to modern navigators. 52 The whirlpools effected us sensibly, but with a little exertion at the helm the ship kept sfeadily in its course. The ripple of the water at the edge of the vortices, resem- bles a strong tide flowing into a smooth river. At a dis- tance of three miles we could hear the sarf breaking against Scylla. The mountains on the CaJabrian side decline towards the sea with an easy descent, and are cultivated from the water's edge quite to their tops. Behind the first range the more distant summits rise higher and bolder, and are at this tiuie covered with snow. On the Sicilian side the shore is not so high, but is thrown into parrallel lines re^ sembling the mud walls of a fort. This, we presume is the effect of earthquakes. We were so near Messena that w^e could see the citadel and mole. The ground upon which the city is built rises like an amphitheatre, which enabled us to view its entire plan from the Faro. The houses are low, and have been so constructed since the great earthquake of 1643. They are less liable to be in- jured by earthquakes than more lofty edifices. The weather was cloudy until about 4 o'clock. After we entered the Faro we had been able to see the base of Etna. In vain for several hours our eyes had sought its summit, when through the broken clouds and far above them, we suddenly discovered its awful head ; clear, ma- jestic, and bright with snow, its smoke curling away in immense volume, before the wind. 12 o'clock.— The night is clear and calm ; the mooa near the full. We have been frequently on deck to look at Etna. It is so far above us and so bright it seems to belong to a purer w orld. The mountains in its vicini- 53 ty, though high and steep, are diminished into mole hills in its awful presence. Etna stands in solitude. 20. — The wind has changed. I dont know how long we may be beating about before we reach Catania, now only twelve miles from us. We are near the islands of the Cyclops, so renowned in classic fable. They are small barren rocks of basaltic lava. In the direction of Etna thig fine morning, the Cyclops form the fore ground of one of the most delightful pictures in nature. Direct- ly behind them is the city of Miscaris, almost concealed from our view. A vast number of cottages, groves and gardens appear beyond, gradually diminishing in dis- tance, until the houses seem small dots under the woody region of the mountain. Etna, with his clear head, towers above all, and " Looks from his throne of clouds o'er half the vrorld.*' Cata7iiay 9 o'clock: P. J^I. We arrived about 5 o'clock. The Catanians came down in a crowd upon the mole, tendering their services much fike their countrymen at Palermo. Two young men came on board who can speak English, offering their services as guides, and interpreters. I have engaged one of them, Catania, had once a good and spacious harbor, which was filled up by the eruption of lava which destroyed the city in 1669. The same eruption which filled up the old harbor formed the new one, where we are now anchored. Formerly there was a sufficient depth of water ; it is now so shallow that Capt. Keith assures me he cannot ride out a storm here in safety, and must accordingly hasten his preparations to depart. 27. — It has rained incessantly all day ; yet Signorc Salvado Lombardo Buda, such is the long name of my e2 54 Cicerone, was faithful to his engagement, and made his appearance at an early hour. Notwithstanding the bad weather, we visited the Cathedral, the Museum of the Prince de Biscaris, and the Benedictine Convent of St. Nicoloso. We examined in various parts of the city, the ruins caused by the earthquake of 1693, and the eruption of 1609. The streets being deluged with water, the ap- pearance of the city was cheerless and dreary. To-mor- row, I hope to see the same objects under more favorable circumstances. 28. — The Benedictine Convent of St. Nicoloso was mi- raculously preserved from the torrent of lava which over- whelmed the city in 1669, by the efficacy of a nail of the Saviour's cross, which was carried around the building in solemn procession during the eruption. When ^he lava approached the walls it was staid in its progress. The relic is still preserved. The buildings attached to this convent are the most magnificent ©f the kind I Iiave yet seen, and Sig. Lora- bardo assures me it is the greatest monastery in Italy, and that its wealth is incakulable. The church is a vast tem- ple which would be a pride, and a glory, to any country as a national edifice. Its walls are loaded with fine mar- ble, sculpture and paintings. A number of priests were performing mass, accompa- nied by the organ which Brydone pronounced, long ago, superior to that of Haerlera. Its tones exceed any instru- ment I have heard, and I am inclined to give full credence to his high praise of it. There were twenty or thirty per- sons engaged in performing mass, and six hearere ; my <^hostly interpreter and myself included. 55 LETTER VIII. Signore Lombardo Bucla — Elephant of lava — Prince de Btscaris — Story of his marriage — His garden — A dying Frenchman. Dec. 29.^ — My interpreter Buda once lived at Genoa, where he contracted, as he says, in consequence of expo- sure to cold, a complaint of the lungs. Five or six years since he removed to Sicily for the benefit of a milder cli- mate, and with the hope of regaining his health. He re- sided one year at Messena. From, an apparently hopeless consumption he recovered such a degree of health that he was able to enlist in Lord Bentick's army while that no- bleman had possession of Sicily. For two years he serv- ed on board several ships, where he learned the English language, and acquired the rank of lieutenant, with the privilege of wearing naval buttons on his coat, Avhich he displays in triumph to this present time. He speaks En- glish tolerably well; and quotes Lord Bentick, the Prince "deBiscaris and the chevaher Giovanni, so very often that I can hardly keep him long enough upon the subject be- fore us to gain such information from him as he seems well qualified to give. He intends to publish a transla- tion of some English treatise on medicine, and I have agreed to write from Palermo after my return, if I find a work there which I can recommend to him as worthy his attention. It is stipulated also that I shall direct to Si ST. Lombardo Bada, &c. American vice-consul Cata- nia — not that he is at present American vice-consul, but be has made application in the regular way for that purpose, and he has no doubt of his being so 56 appointed before my letter shall reach him. I found this a point of no trifling moment, so I made no objec- tion to conceding it. The climate has done for him what is usually to be expected in such cases. Without remov- ing the cause of his disorder it has suspended his fate, and put off the catastrophe which awaits him. His counte- nance retains the strong and peculiar marks of a con- sumptive habit. His breath is short — chest narrow, nose hooked. I allow him to take my arm, and he hangs upon me like a skeleton, reminding me at the same time of my profession and my mortality. Capt. K. as large as a ton, and his small wife, joined us at the mole. We went through the principal streets, which are wide and extreme- ly well built. The largest street leads from the bay near- ly west, and commands a view of the mountain and the sea. The city has an airy and cheerful appearance, and the glorious summit of Etna seems to shine into every avenue. The mountain is always before our eyes — the streets are wider, and the situation of the city better than that of Palermo. Sig. Lombardo is certain that no city in Italy is so magnificent, with the exception of "immor- tal Rome." The principal square is nearly in the centre of the city, and is ornamented with a large fountain, the basin of which is placed by the side of a pedestal which supports an elephant, sculptured out of a vast block of lava. It is of colossal dimensions and an admirable representation ©f the animal. The surface is left in its natural porous state without polish, so as to resemble the rough skin of the elephant. The tusks are of white marble. The flag pavement under our feet was laid with square blocks of lava. No other stone is employed in buildings or walls.. 57 We continued our walk through the city in the direc- tion toward Etna, to view the gardens and unfinished palaces of the Prince de Biscaris. The present Prince is the son of the Prince de Biscaris mentioned with so much respect by Spallanzani. The father established the first museum in the city. His immense incomes were employed with great liberality upon objects of public im- provement, and procured for him universal respect and esteem. His extensive charities endeared him to the lower classes ; his politeness, learning and urbanity, procured him the love and veneration of the nobility. Af- ter his death, the alliance of his son, the present incum- bent, was sought by the Prince * * *, who wished him to marry his daughter. Being defeated in his attempts to effect this by fair negociation, he directed his daughter to send for the young Prince and request a private interview. The invitation was accepted without suspicion. While he remained with the j-oung lady in her own apartments, her father entered, and pretended the greatest surprize and indignation at finding him with his daughter without his knowledge and consent. After remonstrating with him in terms of the severest reproach, he declared that he raust now save Iiis family from disgrace by taking his daughter in marriage. Such were the chivahic notions of the Catanian nobleman, that he believed himself ia honor bound to comply with this unreasonable demand. The nuptials were celebrated, but he refused to receive his wife to his bed, and she has resided in separate apart- ments of the palace, except when she has been under the necessity of seeking an asylum from his severity, at her father's house. 5B The prince is morose and unsocial ; has few servants, and associates little, if at all, with the nobility of Catania, His family consists of a younger brother, and the son of a merchant of Malta. His immense incomes are at pre- sent consumed in the idle waste of his stables, theatres, and various establishments, which are not of public utili- ty. The numerous poor, no longer share the bounty of the favorite title. Yet the people impute the strange and unsocial character of the Prince to his unfortunate marriage, and their dislike is tempered with that feeling of sympathyj which misfortune usually begets. Sig. Lombardo is answerable for the truth of this sto- ry, which now brought us to the entrance of the garden, which is the most extensive in the vicinity of Catania. It is half as large as the public garden of Palermo, and be- ing built upon the lava of 1669, has an unevenness and variety of surface, which it is impossible for art to sup- ply. There are many fountains, but none so large or so expensively ornamented as those at Palermo. The plants and ornamental trees are scattered indiscriminatelj^, a- nother cause of agreeable variety. Signore, our learned Cicerone, still continued his character of the Prince. " He neglects this garden and you see it overgrown with weeds. The extensive foundation of this edifice which was com- menced by his fatlier, is but a pile of ruins. The spir- it that would have fuliilled, and realised, its magnificent design, is asleep in the dust." As we returned through the city we visited a large and airy hospital, which we found neat and well arrang- ed. The wards are large and without partitions. In one of them an old Frenchman was breathing his last, with-- out attracting notice, or pity. An attendant went to his 59 couch, and shook him, to ascertain whether he was yet dead. The dying man gazed upon us with that strange expression of vacancy, and tixedness, which characterizes the last agony of life. I could accuse his attendants of no other inhumanity, than that of not watching his last moments. From the evident good arrangement and abun- dance of every thiug, I yielded my full assent to Buda's lavish praises of the establishment. Great attention to the sick, is practised as a religious observance. LETTER IX. Church of St. Nicoloso — Mass and 7misic — Lava of 1669, covered the City — Monte Rosso — Attempt at theft and its punishment Afflictions of Buda Theatre of Prince de Biscaris — St, Nicoloso — The Organ Relinquish visiting Etna Museums Roads and travelling in the interior. Catania, December 30. I went early with my lieutenant Buda to attend mass at the church of St. Nicoloso, and to listen to the music of that celebrated organ. After mass, I communicated through Buda a request that the musician might play some common church music, with which he civilly com- plied. In the worship of this house there is something peculi- arly grand and imposing. The traveller kneels with the catholic in this magnificent temple, and forgets that he is a stranger, when worshiping before the God of all nations. The morning devotions soon ended, the few persons who 60 had entered St. Nicoloso with us, joined the parties in the streets and the gardens, and as before noticed, the Sab- bath was spent in various amusements. The particular object of our observation, after leaving the church, was the great field of lava formed by the erup- tion of 1669. From the balconies of the convent we had before surveyed the track and extent of this immense eruption. This monastery stands just within the ancient walls of Catania, and not far from the point where the la- va approached the city. Both to the right and left of this point, the lava buried the wall, overwhelming with it all the buildings in its range down to the water, and even filled up the harbor. From Monte Rosso, which was formed by this eruption, the lava extended a distance of fifteen EngHsh miles to the walls of Catania. All the southern quarter of the city was buried, except the con- vent of St. Nicoloso, and a few buildings behind it, which escaped in consequence of the lava's dividing into two streams, as it passed across the inclined plain of the city, towards the sea. The lava approached the wall opposite this convent, and after having risen above the height of sixty feet, and even projecting its fused mass, so as almost to touch the building, was unaccountably stayed in its progress. That it was here stayed, the Benedictines be- lieve was owing to the efficacy of their most valued relic, one of the nails of the Saviour's cross, which was carried around the church in solemn procession during the erup- tion. The half of the city, which was not overwhelmed, was preserved by the veil of St. Agatha, which was dis- played in the direction from whence the eruption threat- ened. St. Agatha is the patron saint of the city to this day. 61 SMonte Rosso, which is more than 800 (eet in height, was formed entirely by this eruption. It is at the foot of Etna. The great field of lava, on which modern Catania is built, extends of course to this mountain, and as we look towards it, presents a rough, uneven surface, much resembling the dark waves of the sea in cloudy weather. It produces considerable vegetation, but not enough to conceal the blackness of the lava. At 2 o'clock we returned on board our brig. A Ca- tanian, had attempted to steal some brush-wood, which had been laid upon the key to be used in stowing the car- go, which I find is to be Barylla. Capt. Keith informed me, that his sailors had received a small allowance of money last evening, and one of them, after a carouse in the city, had returned in a state of in- toxication. As he staggered towards the ship he was fol- lowed by a Catanian, who attempted to pick his pockets. Another sailor, who happened to be sober, discovered his intention in season to prevent his companion from being robbed. Like a true jack-tar, he pushed the poor rogue into the sea. He escaped from his cold bath with some difficulty, and with the loss of his loose coat, which was brought on board as a trophy. Signor. Lombardo, seemed dull and full of anxiety all the morning. At length he opened his budget of sor- rows. His eldest child was sick, and his wife had been brought to bed of a monster. In the evening, we attended the theatre of the Prince de Biscaris. The entertainment was not of the most se- lect kind. The Prince was present ; and his face a pretty good comment on the character we had heard of him. Buda attended us late, and repeated his queries about hiis F 62 lusus naturae, for it was so monstrous, he feared his wife would be subjected to injurious suspicions. 1 assured him there was no danger from such persons as knew her husband, and I presumed the public would make great allowances for the caprice of nature. 31. — I commenced the day at the church of St. Nicol- oso ; attracted there by the hope of listening- to the tones of that matchless organ. The doors were already opened, though it was scarcely day light, and the music filled the holy place with a force and melody, indiscribable. i can imagine no comparison but the harmony of angels btfore the throne of the Almighty. The business of the morning was to make a final de- termination on the subject of visiting Etna; and we are sorry to learn that the season is so advanced, and the snow so deep as to render it impossible. I have accordingly re- linquished the intention, and have only to make the most of my time in examining objects near at hand. I have visited, a second time, the museums of the Prince de Biscaris and the Chevalier Giovanni. In the first is a collection of an- cient armor, Roman, Sicilian, Carthagenian and Grecian. It is arranged in a spacious saloon, with such weapons of war as are supposed to have been of the same periods. These remains refer the spectator to ages when Sicily was the theatre of bloody wars, either waged by her own gov- ernments, or a scene for the contests of more powerful na- tions. For many centuries, this island has not been vi- sited by war. It may perhaps be owing principally to this cause, that civilization is almost confined to the popu- lous cities. The roads in the interior are in the most neglected condition. I have thought of returning to Palermo by 63 land ; but I find on enquiry, that, should I undertake thife journey, it would be necessary to employ a guard, and to carry provisions ; probably to encamp in the open air, during- the night ; and that the Sicilians, seldom under^ take such a long and hazardous pilgrimage. When Sicily was warlike, it was also civilized. The spoils of its cities were among the early trophies of Ro- man valor, and when removed to Italy, contributed great- ly to form a taste for the fine arts, in which the Ro- mans so much excelled. Syracuse was celebrated for its learning, philosophy, and power, long before the period of Roman greatness. Rut these are themes for those who have leisure and learning ; ours must be a passing sketch. In another saloon of the palace of the Prince de Ei.sca- ris, is a collection of capitals, statues, and various sculp- tured marbles, which have been recovered from the ruin^ of ancient Catania. Many of them are beautifully exe- cuted; but are principally valued as authentic and an- cient specimens of Grecian and Carthagenian sculpture. There is also a large collection of ancient utensils, vase* and medals. Among the works in terra colta, or burned clay? are some vases of uncommon elegance. Having an hour unengaged, I examined some tracts of lava near the bay, particularly the promontory which foruis the south side of the little harbor. It is black, rough, and full of fissures, and the surface porous like pomise stone. The progress of this imuiense eruption was not rapid : but so slow that it w'as compared to the creeping of insects. Where nothing interrupted its course, the side of the hardened lava is twenty or thirty fttt in heiglit, and perpendicular, like a wail. 64 III many places where there is no soil perceptible, some vegetables are sustained, but not enough to conceal its general black and barren appearance. I crossed the har-« bor in a boat, and intended to have walked upon the lava, but found the fissures so deep and the surface so rough, that I could not pass over to the opposite side, though the distance was less than half a mile. I frequent- ly got into chasms so deep that I lost sight of the city, the eea, and the mountain. Not far from the mole, where our ship is anchored, the lava is blasted for the purpose of obtaining blocks for building. It is easily wrought, find make durable walls. At the bottom of the excava-- lion it is compact and without fissures ; though near the surface, where it was not, when cooling, under a high de- gree of pressure, it is too porous to be fit for the purposes ef building. LETTER X. New-year's view — Buda's ills — The captain's report--^ Descent into ancient Catania — View from the bay — jRemarks. Jan. 1. — " We take no note of time." This date how- ever, reminds me of the commencement of another year, and that it is the season we have been accustomed to call winter. How unlike my own country and my past re- collections, is every thing around me ! The weather is as mild as the month of May in New-England. The almond, and a variety of fruit trees are in blossom, and all nature is clothed iu the dress of spring. As, I look from 6j our cabiu, the whole country between Catania and the mountain is covered with verdure. Etna stands above us in his winter dress ; but it is another world. Our faithful heutenant came to us late, and with a piteous face. His monster had been interred this morn- ino^, and his wife remained disconsolate. 1 cheered him in the best way 1 could, and promised him my advice in detail, as we pursued our perambulation of the city. We spent two hours ag-ain, in the immense cabinet of the Chevalier Giovanni, examining the productions of the vulcanos of the Mediterranean, as well as the pearls, am- bers, and precious stones. There is a library connected with the museum in which we observed many English books. We also visited a large silk manufactory. Silk fabrics are among the chief articles of the exportation of Catania. There were about 200 persons of the most squalid and miserable appearance employed in this manu- factory ; but so far as we could discover, nothing remarka- ble in its machinery or arrangement. When walking through the streets, we perceived we were followed by boys and beggars as objects of curiosity. This is not much to be wondered at ; for my large friend the Captain, his little wife, a lass of about twenty years, and my ghost Buda, formed the party. The Captain has been lading his brig with Barylla, and he assures me that notwithstanding a guard of two persons has attended each load from the store-house to the mole, there has been pilfering of that coarse article. How poor must the wretches be to steal such trash ! Capt. Keith has bought provision at a low price and of superior quality. The wines are better flavored than in the neighborhood of Palermo. Beeves are almost unknown f2 66 at Parlermo. We see here, a small breed with remarkably large horns. Fresh beef is seldom or never sold in the markets of this city, or Palermo. If they ever have veal at Palermo it is brought from Naples. The butter pur- chased for our table w^hile there, was from the dairy of the Prsetor, the Prince d'Aci, and is not an article in common use. The Palermitans drink goat's milk with their coffee, and make, with it, cheese of a very inferior quality. It is not common for a ship, of the burthen of ours, to lie in this small harbor. The Captain also reports, that the Catanians have visited him every day to look at his great ship ; and that the ladies have not deemed it un- worthy of their curiosity. Jan. 2.— With my ghostly lieutenant and a Catanian Cicerone, I descended to view the excavations which were made by the late Prince de Biscaris, among the ruins of ancient Catania. Near the portal of the Cathedral, the super-incumbent lava has been perforated, and we de- scended by a narrow stair way into the centre of the an- cient bath. The plaister on the walls, and some delicate ornaments in stucco, still remain entire. The sound of carriages rattling upon the pavement, over our heads, disturbed the stillness of the dark cavern, and reminded us of the fearful change that had been wrought by the eruptions of Etna ! We visited an ancient theatre which was uncovered by the same Prince. It was a vast edifice ; as much as we could see, (for the arena was filled with water) was built with masses of lava. Ancient Catania was distinguished for the number, magnitude, and splendor, of its edifices. Those who have studied them minutely, have discovered a source of peculiar interest in their remote antiquity. 67 M. de Non states, that " Catania was already a city when ** the Tyrians, attracted by the commerce they had begun ** to carry on with the inhabitants, made a successful at- ** tempt to establish themselves there, and expelled the ** natives, long before the foundation of Syracuse. Al- " cibiades afterwards surprised it in the expedition of the ** Athenians into Sicily, while Nicias was laying siege to ** Syracuse. ** It was taken in the first Punic war by Valerius 3Ias- " sala, in the 489th year of Rome, and became a Roman *' colony. In succeeding ages it followed the fate of Si- *' cily, and was laid waste by the Saracens." The eruption of 1069, destroyed a great part of the city, but spared the inhabitants ; the advance of the lava along the inclined plain from the foot of Etna, being so gradual as to give them time to escape. A more ter- rible disaster awaited them twenty-four years after, when nineteen thousand people were instantaneously destroyed by an earthquake. A few solid edifices resisted the shock. The convent of St. Nicoloso, so miraculously pre- served from the lava, withstood the earthquake so as to be susceptible of repair, and became an object of renew- ed veneration. It was many years after the return of the inhabitants to Catania, before they ceased to erect low buildings, like those of the present day at Messena. The modern buildings are lofty, and the people seem to have at length forgotten that dreadful calamity. Our last excursion was in a boat to view the promon- tory of lava, which forms the south si"-i of the bay. We . . '11, '' passed Us most projecting point, bounded by a smooth yellow beach, nearly level, or undulating in gentle swells, and covered with verdure. At a little distance from this 68 point, the spectator beholds this wonderful scene, with a more lively consciousness of the changes which Etna has wrought, than from any other point of view. On one side and so near, what Sicily was, before her light sands were covered by the black and barren lava ; on the other, the new creation, dark, waste and ruinous ! Beyond ; white and serene, the cone of Etna is traced upon the clear blue sky ; the spires and domes of Catania, rise before us in their varied forms, surrounded by all that is delightful in the environs of this lovely city. *' Glad 1 would walk thee round'* a Httle longer ! but 1 am warned by our captain that we must depart to-morrow. I have hardly seen enough to justify me in making a remark upon the general character of the Catanians, yet I must observe they appear less beggarly than the Pa- lermitans. In the streets we were always treated with deference as strangers. Our ghost Buda assured us every moment that all places w€re free to our curiosity, and that the Princes and Barons were proud to open their doors to foreigners. At all places we have been permitted to enter, and have received every proper and kind civility. Capt. Keith came here upon business, and my contract with him is to obey his convenience. 1 hope some wind, adverse to his destination, will blow us to Syracuse or Messena, or where it will, so we linger on this fairy coast. "n?^ 69 LETTER XI. Departure from Catania — Voyage through the Faro of Messena, a squall there — A loater spout — The Lipari Islands — Stromholo — A gale — Arrival at Palermo. Brig Hero, at Sea, Jan. 4, 1817. We sailed from Catania on the evening of the 2d inst. As there was little wind we cast anchor, and remained in sight of that city during- the night. Yestt^rday morning a breeze from the south enabled us to make n small part of our voyage. The weather has been delightfni. Etna seems as near as when we left Catania. The high moun- tains of Calabria are covered with snow. As we pass near each coast, we can distinguish the dark green verdure, covering the plains and the gentle slopes of the mountains, while the steep places are continually barren. The beds of the rivers are wide, and dry enough to be used as roads. The naked mountains loek old in their barrenness. The wind, now a head, is barely suf- ficient to fdl our sails ; we are beating lazily towards the Faro of Messena. The Calabrian mountains appear to touch the shore of Sicily, and close the pass before us. 5. — The fine weather continued only until twilight, when we entered the Faro. The sky became overcast, and as the moon had not yet risen, the evening was ex- tremely dark. After we had passed Messena we were alarmed by a sudden and violent squall. All hands were instantly employed in shortening sail, but the wind came from such a point that it was impossible for us to keep our course. We were barely able to weather Scylla. The wind continued all night strong from the west, and it was 70 a question whether we should not return through the Faro, to avoid being driven upon the rocky coast of Ca- labria. At six the wind abated, and with the favor of more propitious gales we are now, 12 o'clock, in sight of the Li pari isles. Etna, clear of clouds, is yet over our heads. Volcano and Strornbolo are casting forth volumes of smoke. The weather is again delightful, though we have just observed a water spout near us, which has alarmed our Sicihan pilot. He assures us it is a sign of a violent gale. The motion of the air which produces this beautiful phenomenon, is similar to the whirlwind that so frequently raises the dust in roads and sandy places. The unbroken expanse of the ocean, gives to such currents of air, an extent and force, which they are pre- vented from acquiring by the inequalities of the surface of the earth. The sea was much agitated by this whirl- wind, and the spray, which formed the water spout, was so dense as to have the appearance of a continued sheet, for many fathoms higher than the mast of our ship. The column of water moved rapidly, and varied perceptibly in size as the wind increased or diminished. No cloud was produced, though the water formed a mist, resem- bling smoke, which soon disappeared. Our Sicihan pilot, who is cur oracle, since Sig. Lom- bardo ; says, that Volcano has not been known to smoke as much as at present, for many years, and he likes not its omen. This is the island which gave a name in our language to the most tremendous phenomenon in nature ; yet the fire which has been burning forever, still burns. We are within ten miles of Volcano, and it is almost con- cealed in its own smoke ! 71 All the Lipari isles are of volcanic origin. Lipari, the largest, has a city of the same name, containing: ten thou- sand inhabitants. We can now view this city very dis« tinctly with our small sfsip telescope. We have the au- thority of Spallanzani, for believing it more ancient than ancient Troy. Vulcan's tremendous forge, was located under these islands. The god of the winds dwelt at iKolea, now in sight. The shores of all these islands are nearly perpendicular, and the centre of each rises into two, three, or more conical summits. They appear black and barren, though we can discover houses and villages in the valleys. A volcanic soil is always fertile. These islands are well known to produce all the grains and fruits of the neigh- boring countries, in the greatest perfection. The grapes are superior to those of Sicily. The climate is fine, be- yond example. The Lipari isles are too small to invite aggression of any kind, and appear to us the perpetual abodes of peace and happiness. Perhaps it is wise to pass on and not enquire more minutely into their history. 4 o'clock. — We are now between Strombolo and a small cluster of bare rocks, called the Panara Isles. The shores of all the islands are very steep, but these insula- ted masses rise to a great height, and present a most sin- gular appearance. One looks like a ship at anchor, another like a tower, another like an enchanted castle. The steep precipice which forms the side of one of these islands near us, seems to consist of regular columns, which are basalts of immense size and height. Strombolo, the only volcano at present in a state of ac- tivity, is also the highest of the Lipari islands. It is a single cone not exceeding four leagues in circumference, but rising to such a height that the clouds which gather 72 around it, are considerably below the level of its crater. Its smoke curies upward a short time and then falls below the summit, forming a dense cloud so low as not to inter- cept our view of the volcano. We can destinctly hear the explosion which attends each emission of smoke, thoug^h we cannot yet perceive the flame or the lava. 8 o'clock,-— As we approached Strombolo the crater be- came visible. It is a little below the summit on the west side. Before it was yet dark we could see the flame, and hear the explosions at intervals of eight or ten minutes, resembling the report of cannon, or voUies of musketry ; every report is accompanied with a quantity of fused matter which is thrown to an immense height into the air; then rolls down the side of the mountain and falls hissing into the ocean. The lava does not flow from the crater like melted mat- ter, but falling after having been thrown into the air in seraifused masses, rolls from precipice to precipice down the steep side of the mountain and reaches the water be- fore it looses its red heat. 10 o'clock. — During a part of the evening the moun- tain has been covered with thick clouds, which when illu- minated by an explosion, seems like a curtain of flame, thrown over the very gates of the infernal world. Our Sicilian pilot believes this to be the habitation of the damned. The idea is very natural. I am sure no object in nature can be more calculated to excite teri-or. The flame which issues from the mountain is of a peculiar dark, red colour. Evidently, there is no combustion or blaze. The light is caused by the intense degree of heat. This volcano differs from all others in one very remarka- 73 h\e particular. So far as its history can be traced, it has been forever in a state of activity. For considerable time the clouds have been thickening; around Stroinbolo, and it is now, 12 o'clock, only visible when illuminated by an eruption. A wind has sprung up from the west which compels us to shorten sail and change our course. 8th, off Ustica. — At the last date we little dreamed what perils awaited us. We had barely lime to put the ship in readiness before the wind blew a hurricane, and fully verified our pilot's predictions. The storm increased during the whole night and we lost several small sails. At 6 o'clock the fore and