.'_f,«^ > /O OF THE. ^ Human Fora\ w^ A SCIENTIFIC TREATISE ON PROPORTIONS AS THEY APPLY TO GARMENT CONSTRUCTION HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS REDUCED TO RULES APPLICABLE TO PRACTICE By JNO. a. CARLSTROM Instructor in The " Mitchell " School of Garment Cutting PUBLISHERS : THE JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. New York 1 905 LIBRARY of .ONGKtS$ fwo Bouits rtewivcu JUL U lyub CounriKK tciu-Jl f9o^ AAC Nln //<«/JV- 1 COP* .. , T T ^^0 COPYRIGHT 1Q05. The JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. NEW YORK, CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. INDEX TX) SUBJECTS. PARTI. - ^^^^ Preface 7 Introduction 9 The Uses of Proportions lo Average Proportions 1 1 The Foundation 14 The Principle 15 Heights and Widths 16 A Combination of Numbers. 18 Waist Quantities '. 22 The Four-Inch Difference 26 Combination Waist Sizes 2,6 Easy Waist Sizes 26 Weight of the Human Body 29 Elements of Short Measures by Heights and Widths 34 The Depth of Scye 54 The Blade 36 The Front-Shoulder 36 The Over-Shoulder 38 Elements of Short Measures by Widths Only 38 The Depth of Scye 38 The Blade 4° The Front-Shoulder 40 The Over-Shoulder 42 Additions to Short Measures for Overcoats 44 Short Measures for Overcoats 46 The Depth of Scye 46 The Blade Measure 48 The Front-Shoulder Measure 48 The Over-Shoulder Measure 50 The Elements of Long Measures by Heights and Widths 52 The Upper-Shoulder Measure 52 The Lower-Shoulder Measure 54 Long Measures for Overcoats 56 The Upper-Shoulder Measure 56 The Lower-Shoulder Measure. ... 56 Proportionate Division of Widths 58 Anatomical Division of Heights 60 The Octaval Division 61 Anatomical Figures 62 The Illustration Applied 64 The Working Table for Averages 68 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. PAGE The Corpulent Type 70 The Working Table for Corpulents 72 The Slender Form 76 The Working Table for Slender Forms 78 Sleeves 81 Normal 82 Corpulent 84 Slender 84 Forearm Lengths of Sleeves 86 Normal 86 Corpulent 86 Slender 86 Vest Lengths and Openings 88 Normal 88 Corpulent 90 Slender 90 Trousers 92 Normal 94 Corpulent 98 Slender 100 Breeches 102 Ready Reference Tables 104 Waist Sizes 104 Scye Depths 106 Front-Shoulder 108 Over-Shoulder no Upper-Shoulder 112 Underarm Lengths 114 Vest Lengths 116 Inseams and Waist Rises 118 A Basis for Lengths of Coats 1 20 Lengths for Averages 120 Lengths for Corpulents 122 Lengths for Slender Forms 124 Working Table Without Additions 126 Types of Forms 128 Application in Practice 133 Ready Reference Rules 138, 139 and 140 The Scales 141 Confirmatory Investigations 142 PART II. Proportions for Boys 143, 144 The Explanations 146 Boys' Trousers 148 Boys' Breeches 1 50 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS^ 5 PART 111. ^^^^ Women's Proportions 156 Explanations ^ .g Proportions for Girls ^^^ Sleeve Lengths for Women ' ' " ' ' ^^^^ Sleeve Lengths for Girls INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS. The Octaval Division. ^^ The Average Form 71 The Corpulent Form ^^ The Slender Form Types OF Forms. ^^^g Sloping • • 1 30 Square , • 131 Erect, Normal and Stoopmg INDEX TO TABLES. PART I. 15 ^ [The Principle. 2) ( 17 3 1 „ . ,. .. ,^r:^.U. ^ 19 4 ^Heights and Widths ^^^ 21 s^i r 23 61 J 27 7 I Waist Quantities ] 27 8 I - ■ I 27 9 ' 31 10 Weight of the Human Body , lO ! 37 ^2 lElementsof Short Measures by Heights and Widths -, ,7 13 f I 39 14J f 39 15 1 J 4' '^ '^ Short Measures by Widths Only ] 41 17 I 43 i8j 1 • • • • 45 ^9 L Additions for Overcoats 20| f 47 2O j 49 ^^ Ishort Measures for Overcoats ] 49 23 j I 51 24 J CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. TABLE PAGE ^5 I Elements of Long Measures \ ^^ ^^ t Long Measures for Overcoats 57 29 Division of Widths 59 30 Division of Heights 65 31^ ( Averages 69 32 {-Working Tables ■< Corpulent 7$ 33 J i Slender 79 34^ r 83 35 ^Sleeves, Outside Measures -{ 85 36J I 85 37] 38 {-Sleeves, Forearm Lengths 87 39 J 40 ^ f Average 89 41 {-Vest Lengths -\ Corpulent 91 42 J I, Slender 91 43 1 r Average 95 44 [-Trousers -' Corpulent 99 45 J t^ Slender loi 46 Breeches 103 47^ f Waist Sizes 105 48 I I Scye Depths 107 49 Front-Shoulders 109 50 t:, , n r T- ui Over-Shoulders iii ^ -Ready Keierence iables - ,t cu u 51 -^ Upper-Shoulders 113 52 Underarm Lengths 115 53 j Vest Lengths 117 54 J ilnseams and Waist Rises 119 55"! f Average 121 56 y Bases for Lengths of Garments . . -J Corpulent 123 5 7 J 1^ Slender 125 58 Working Table (no additions) 127 Boys' Proportions. IAKi 11. 59 General Proportions 147 60 Boys' Trousers 1 49 61 Boys' Breeches 151 Women's Proportions. »AKi Hi. 62 Proportions for Women's Garments 157 63 " " Girls 159 64 Sleeve Lengths for Women 161 65 " " " Girls 162 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. PREFACE. ^OME years ago the author became convinced that a book on practical propor- tions in their relation to garment cutting would prove a work of decided interest and value to those engaged in garment construction in this and other countries. Accordingly, he began the collection of data which his own experience in the trade for a quarter of a century led him to believe would properly cover the ground necessary for a work of this kind. The result, which is before the reader, is a compendium of facts concerning the subject that the author believes to be unique in the literature of the trade. That the work is absolutely perfect is not asserted ; but that every care has been taken in making it to put forth its story in simple, plain and helpful form is a fact which, it is hoped, will be patent to every reader. It is also hoped that the information it gives will prove as valuable to the student as it has been to The Author. New York, 1905. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. INTRODUCTION. T^HE value of a treatise of the kind that follows this chapter will undoubt- edly be estimated variously by different classes in the trade ; some will extend it a hearty welcome as " filling a long felt want," while others will view it with indifference. As its purpose is not to make converts, the author will have no quarrel with those who may consider it unsuited to their needs. It is expected that the contents and the scope ot a work of this kind will be looked upon differently by readers holding different trade ideals. The " Scientific " school, who incline to the belief that the art of garment cutting will ultimately become an exact science through some discovery equaling the ancient alchemists' supposed secrets, which will turn the baser metal of tailoring into gold, may grasp at this volume as a step in that direction. On the other hand, the "Artistic" school, who believe that inspiration will soar most read- ily when unhampered by rules and methods, will naturally look upon this effort as a waste of time. The fact is, it is not suited to either school. Its aim is to interest the real student, the one who neither expects miracles nor takes chances on unsystematic knowledge, but expects results in return from any knowledge gained. He combines the scientific and artistic elements enough to make a happy medium. He belongs to the class that recognizes that the scientific or the mechanical and the esthetic or artistic are not antagonistic, but complementary to each other in well-cut garments. Cutters of all schools will find in these pages, if they will consult them without prejudice, many rules and tables of proportions and variations which, if mixed with common sense and a due regard for their adaptation to individual needs, will simplify many problems that would otherwise be, at least, irksome, even though not impossible of solution. The rules and tables, when properly understood, are nothing if not practical, and their virtues have been tested by long and varied application in practice, as well as by elaborate experiments. Special pains have been taken to make them clear and easy of comprehension and no effort has been made to have them appear " learned " at the expense of intelligibility and the patience of the reader. True science abhors mystery and mysticism, particularly when the nature of the subject calls for clear and simple statements. Viewed in this light, and considering the vastness of the field open to research along this line, the work will undoubtedly prove of great utility and be worthy of a permanent place in the library of any up-to-date cutter. 10 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE USES OF PROPORTIONS. jY^ANY will ask: "What need have I of proportions? I measure my client and apply the measures just as I take them. If his waist length is short, I apply it short, and vice versa." The reply must be the same as when the utility test is applied to any form of knowledge. You deal with proportions every time you put your tape around a client. You apply proportions, rightly or wrongly, every time your measures are put on paper in the production of a draft. Proportions will solve the problem if a customer, for whom you have cut gar- ments regularly, should change in size and you had no opportunity to remeasure him. Proportions will check measures of which you have doubt, and will supply them, should they be overlooked in measuring. Proportions will determine the length of garments when fashion changes. Proportions must be understood when a set of patterns are being prepared. Proportions are a material aid in cutting for out-of-town trade. Proportions will aid those who produce garments on general lines. An understanding of proportions will give you more confidence in yourself, furnish you a basis to figure from, and when carefully studied will materially aid in broadening you intellectually. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 11 AVERAGE PROPORTIONS. 'TO the pioneers in proportions wlio have partly blazed a way into the deep forest, I extend my respect, even though they did not thoroughly clear and make tillable the soil. Dr. Wampen, the only one whose work stands out as a classic of tailoring literature, treats of the ideal subject rather than the average, with which tailoring usually deals, as exemplified in his 36-inch-breast and 64-inch- height model man. Beyond this, the average text book on anatomy is more easily understood by laymen than is Dr. Wampen's. Still Dr. Wampen's researches in proportions remain the deepest, widest and broadest, a reservoir that subsequent writers have drawn upon. Other authorities on general tailoring are authorities on most all phases except that of proportions, and their knowledge of proportions is usually confined to the working of a system of cutting. Under these circumstances, the researches of the author of this work have been used as a working foundation. They are based upon the actual measurements of some three thousand people from all parts of this country, with a liberal sprinkling of others from other parts of the world. The principles herein presented are so arranged that they are not an appendix to any system, but abstract principles, applicable to any system that is laid down on rigrht lines. PART MEN'S PROPORTIONS, 14 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE FOUNDATION. /I FTER the measurements gathered had been simmered down, by finding the percentage of each class, one group of two hundred (which may be used as representative) showed the following number of persons to each height from 5 feet 4 inches up to 6 feet : 5 ft. 4 in. 5 ft. 5 in. 5 ft. 6 in. 5 ft- 7 in. 5 ft. S in. 5 ft. 9 in. 5 ft. 10 in. 5 ft. II in. 6 ft. Relative number of persons to > 14 each height. 19 26 28 29 27 23 18 16 This places the 5-foot-8inch man in the center with the greatest number of persons to his credit, and that height may be taken as a safe average— and we are seeking the average rather than the ideal height. Having decided on the average height, we next seek the average width corresponding. We proceed as follows : Reduce the height, 5 feet 8 inches, to inches, or 5 feet of 12 inches each, which is equal to 60 inches and 8 inches additional, making a total of 68 inches. One-half of this amount is 34 inches. Take the first unit of this number (or the first figure to the right) and add it to 34 (4 plus 34) : the sum will be 38 inches, which is the average breast size. This result, which is first given here theoretically, is the rule that was made after the 38-breast size was found to be the average by the same test as that by which the average height was determined ; namely, an average gained by actual measures. While the reason given is sufficient to establish the 38 breast as the average, there are other reasons as well. 38 is the middle quantity of the recognized " Men's sizes," from 33 to 43, both inclusive, for below 38 we have five sizes, viz., 37, 36, 35, 34 and 33, and above 38 we have also five sizes, viz., 39, 40, 41, 42 and 43. Above these we have the extremes of the corpulent and the excessively corpulent, and below them the other extremes of youths' and children's sizes. Hence, we accept the above as the basis to work upon, as it seems to answer all requirements, both theoretical and practical, and though we have diverged from all known standards in making the 5 feet 8 inch man of 38 breast the average, we at least make it plain that we are not copyists. caHlstrom's proportions. 15 THE PRINCIPLE. TABLE 1 /^IVES in tabulated form the result of the preceding deduction. Height in feet and inches. Height in inches. Half height in inches. The first unit of the above line. Breast, by adding the above two lines . 34>> 38ii The breast size can also be gained, when height and width are proportionate to each other, by deducting 30 inches from the height, as shown by TABLE 2. Height in inches 6? in For ideal proportion reduce 30in The remainder 38 in isttw breasflsijs By reversing the above rule and adding 30 inches to the breast size, the pro- portionate height will be found. The above tables are the key by which heights and widths proportionate to each other may be gained. 16 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. TABLE 3 r^IVES a range of heights and widths from 5 feet up to 6 feet 8 inches of the former and from 30 to 50 inches of the latter, which have been gained in the following manner : Line I gives the number of columns each way from the column of averages, which we will hereafter call the " Checking Column," and which is marked zero (o) in this table. Line 2 gives the heights in feet and inches, which are given progressively in this table all the way up to 6 feet 8 inches. For a working table this will not hold good. A man would certainly be nearer proportionate if he gained in height when he increased in width, as per this table, but as an adult may gain in girth at any time and not increase in height after a certain age, we are brought face to face with another problem. Later, we shall give consideration to the way a man does develop, instead of the way he should develop. Line 3, the heights reduced to inches. Line 4, the half-heights in inches. Line 5, the first units and fractions of Line 4 as explained in Table i. Line 6 gives the sums gained by adding Lines 4 and 5 and are the widths, or breast sizes, corresponding to the heights in Lines 2 and 3. The increasing heights in this table maintain a certain relation to the increasing widths and will therefore be referred to as "ideal heigrhts ' hereafter. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 17 o +- >J : 3' n o o o h- o cfq' 3- n C 5' 3 o 5 4i 3- q' 3^ 5' 5' r 3- 3' 3' 3- x 3- 5' V o- 2 c 3 T* o, 3 'i ; 3- : ^ . >< : 3 ; 3 CM = CM 03 CJ1 OS OJ ;&<: CM - CJi S"=t -«J - CM s rs3 en 93 CO CU ^ CM CM CO CJ1 CJl CM NO CM 03 *»CJ1 -»^ CM CM cr> CJl CJl CM CM 03 CM ss 03 03 C^ i«o CM —J ^ CM en ^Jcai ""~ CM ea -P» CM OS eo OOC91 ,« CM CO 03 CO COC» ~ ^ C^ ss -«l Sat = .=» IN9 -P» cn CM cn_ —J ^CM CM S OS CM —J ISO 09 •*» fi an CM —J CM — OJ cn :& —4 ■-»i ho 03 o» S ^ CM —J CJl to 09 = 3: —J ^ oo CM OO —J en ^ CO BO £: OS CM —J to ^ CO CO 2^ = S CO f5^ CM CO 2 = CJ1 = ^ SO = =» >o 18 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. A COMBINATION OF NUMBERS. DY examining Table 3 we find in the sizes up to 40 breast that the inches in Line 2 and the figure to the right in Lines 3 and 6 are identical. This has prompted TABLE 4 to illustrate, perhaps, a coincidence, but one with a suggestion on relative proportion. Line \, the breast sizes. Line 2. The figure to the left in Line i, always 3 in the sizes from 30 to 39, inclusive, is placed in this line directly under itself. Above 40 breast, continue the figure 3 in Line 2, instead of increasing it to 4 to correspond to the figure 40. Line 3. The figure 3 of Line 2 added to the 3 of Line i (making 6 in each instance) and moving the unit (figure to the right) of Line i down to the right of the 6, in Line 3, gives the corresponding height in inches to the original quanti- ties in Line i. Line 4. Now in turn move the second figure of Line 3 down and you have the number of inches above the 5 foot height corresponding to the brea^st size in Line i. But in and after the 40-column above the 6 feet this would give the number of inches above 5 feet continuously, if we moved the first unit down as below 40 and placed the first figure from the left to the resultant 10 inches, or figure I in front, or to the left of the figure just moved down. Line 5. Should we wish to gain the number of inches direct and in progres- sion above the 5 feet height we deduct 2 inches from the second figure, and Line 6 will give the result. This table need not take much of the student's time, as it does not involve any vital principle. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 19 e= en Ca> ^ - art Cbl " NO en CO NO O^ oo CO CO CO -P» ■P> CO ^ en CJl CO cn or. en CO eo --J — 1 CO S5 03 03 CO OO cs CD CO eo CO ° — J C3 CO -P» = -~l eo -(^ =t°NO —J NO CO S - i>o bJ CO Co NO hO ^ -F^ eo :& CO NO cn tn CO en -c> NO ^ en eo -f=> CJ1 NO — 1 -~i Co — 4 CTJ NO 03 — »i CO -p> —J NO cc CO CO -l=» eo NO NO eo en 20 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. TABLE 5. 'X'HIS table gives the same result as Table 3, but in the manner demonstrated in Table 2. Line I gives the height in feet and inches, and it will be noticed that the height after the 6 foot-column decreases instead of increases, which is in accord- ance with the manner in which the average man develops. Those who are more than 6 feet in height belong to another class than the one we are now approaching, and that class will be dealt with later in its regular order. Line 2, the height reduced to inches. Line 3, a stationary amount of 30 inches up to the point where the heights turn, or up to and including the 6-foot height. Above the 6-foot height, this quantity reduces 1^ inch for each height column. This is done in order to maintain the width quantities, or breast sizes, progressively, as the widths do not decrease with the heights. Line 4, the resultant widths, or breast sizes, by deducting the amounts in Line 3 from those of Line 2. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 21 : jj : 5' C O o 3 3- X m 5' 5' X n to' 5' 3 Q. 5' CO ^ — = — CJl to ^ ISO ro CJl to t= CO CDCJi CO ° CTJ 4^ 4^1 CJl eji ° CJl CJl CJl ^ CO o^ 03 CJl S3 CO —J -J CJl C3 05 OS CD CJl CO ca C3 CO CO CJl ■P> CO -~l Scji -P» C3 ^ ^ CJl s CO C3 NO en* e NO ^ ^ CJl ^ r B: 5' 3 O 5' |. a- -< Si. c Eft rq c -1 o r 5' Q q' 5' 3' r > 3 o 3 3- ft Crq' 3- W 3- PJ 3 EI p, 3- oq' 3- X 3" 5' 3- X 5' 5* c "I C T 3 o 3 "^ • o_ ; 3 " re • pj '■ 3- '. ni • ^ '■ o : 3 : n : 5' . crq NO iVD C9 = ^■j, es OS i^- NO CO >5? ^ C3 CO Z! CJl -»4 ^ NO SO - " NO fO CJl CT5 i^ CO cS — isr> cjj tn cn ~ — CO -■ CO S 4^ cn -•= 1 :^ CO ^5» in NO CO NO cn CJl CJ1 CO ;x CO NO Con" o» CO 1*3 oi O^ CJ1 N^ :^ ^ CO —J CO CO CO CT5 -J 1 CJT ° CO CO 03 -p» ^ CT3 03 CDO cn ^ r tji CO -p» CO CO CO CJl t>3 -^J g cn en —J S cji NO CO ^ *» cn CO cn IlJ = cn C^ -P» C3 s o. ^ ^ CT> -f^ cn -p> CT» CO ro\ = CJI en o» -p» —J CO bo --1 ^ CJI en ~~1 :&_ -p» 7~4 CO •*=> ^ i S CJI — J °° CTJ ^ o= 03 CT» -^ g^ CO CD S- :£; " CO —J CO ^cn CO = 4^ CO -p» CO SS CO CTa CO CO cn = = cn s ^ rv3\ oo S^c^ = NO cn NO en = *» ^ s cx3Cn NO 24 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. The result will be the waist size corresponding to the height and breast size dealt with. Example :— To find the waist for a 48 breast, note the figure in the top line of the column in which 48 breast is located. In this case 10 is the figure in the top line and it represents the difference between the Checking Column height and the height that would correspond to the height of the column in which the breast size is found, if the height continued to increase in the same ratio after the 6-foot height as it does before it. Take the 10 inches (in this case) and one half of its own amount, or 5 inches, making 15 inches in all. Add the 15 inches gained to the half-height of the Checking Column. The half height, 34 inches, gives plus 15 inches, the waist size for the 48 breast, viz., 49 inches. Again take a 40 breast. The figure in the top line of this column is 2. One- half of 2 is I, making 3 the total. Add this 3 to the half-checking height, or 34 plus 3, and you have t,j waist for a 40 breast. By the above method we have used one and one-half of the difference between the ideal and the checking height. This has given us an increase of U inch waist to each breast size afier the Checking Column, as may be noted in the accompanying table. The decrease of the waist sizes before the Checking Column must be relatively less than the increase that follows; in fact, just one-half the amount, or | inch to each size. This is gained in the least complicated manner by proceeding as before, that is, by finding the difference between the ideal and the checking height, then adding to this difference one-half of its own amount, but taking only one half of the total gained for the waist sizes before the Checking Column. Example : — -To find the waist size for a 34 breast, find the figure in the top line of the column in which the breast size is located It is, in this case, figure 4, and represents the difference between the ideal height, corresponding to the breast and the checking height. Take this difference (4 inches) and add one-half (or 2 inches) of its own value to itself, making a total of 6 inches. So far we have proceeded exactly as we did in the sizes after the Checking Column ; but for sizes before the Checking Column only one-half of this amount, or 3 inches, is used, which is deducted (instead of added) from the half of the checking height. The 3 inches gained in this case, when deducted from 34 inches, leaves 31 inches for a 34 breast. Another example : — Take 332 breast. The figure at the top is 6, one-half of which is 3, making 9 altogether. One-half of 9 is 4^ inches. Deduct this from 34, or from the half of the checking height, and 29^ remains, which is the waist size for a 32 breast. This gives relatively less decreasing waist sizes as the height and breast decreases, which is perfectly in keeping with form development for this class. Other types will be taken up later in their regular order. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 25 When the width is after and the height before the Checking Column, as, for instance, 44 breast and 5 feet 6 inches height, add the numbers in the top line of both height and width, as 2 and 6 in this case, making 8, and add the half of the total value to itself, making 12, and add this to the waist of the lesser height, or to 32^ in this case, making a total of 44^ waist for a man of 44 breast and 5 feet 6 inches tall. Line 9 gives a ready quantity that may be used to gain average waist sizes, by deducting the amounts in this line from the half heights before the Checking Column and adding to the half height the quantity in Line 9 after the Checking Column. 26 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE FOUR-INCH DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BREAST AND WAIST. lyiANY have been taught, and persist in believing, that the average is only expressed by a 4-inch difference between the breast and the waist quan- tities. We have given consideration to the advocates of this method and give in the next table a rule whereby the 4-inch difference may be observed up to any point deemed desirable. In this table we have held it up to the Checking Column and from there up we have used the same method as explained for Table 6. TABLE 7. 'THE easiest way to hold the 4inch difference is to find the quantity in the top line and deduct it from the half-height of the Checking Column. If you wish to continue it after the Checking Column, add \h.^ quantity in the top line to the half-height of the Checking Column. Line I, the number of columns each way from the Checking Column- Line 2, the breast sizes according to the heights in Table 6. Line 3, the waist sizes by the method just explained. Example: — 33 breast. The figure in the top line is 5. Take this quantity without miy additions or reductions and deduct from 34, the half-height of the Checking Column, making 29 waist for 33 breast. COMBINATION WAIST SIZES. TABLE 8. IN this table is given the 4-inch difference in the intermediate sizes, while the larger as well as the smaller sizes are given as in Table 6. Variations to suit trade or personal ideas can easily be made from this. EASY WAIST SIZES. TABLE 9. jyiANY cutters who design sets of patterns prefer to have the waist sizes run large rather than small. This table may be used to advantage when this effect is desired. Above 40 and below 33 breast, the waist sizes have been gained as in Table 6. The intervening sizes have been gained by adding \ inch to the waist of the 34 breast size, and the same amount to the waist for the 40 breast size, and hold- ing the rest at the even numbers. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 27 : 5' s. = OJ i" " ^- ^ ° " CO KJ " CO ^ CO ^ CJi ~ Oi Cj>.> ^ *» CO -F» g S 4* s CjO ^ -1^ m -(^ ^ ■f^ -p> en s CJi cri 5' 1 hO - bO CO oS CO -P» CO CO tJl CO CT» CO CO ~ CO Cjn lO CO g CO -p» g -p. s e :& £ S ^ -c> ■^ ^ ^ s -F^ CJi s CJI : ,: 5' H. w Z c 3 w •-t £, c g 3 o 5 n 3- ?r 5' w n o_ c" 3 3 S = oo ro ^ "^ hO CO CT» ho CO c^ = CO -F» — en OJ hO ^ ■"^ £3 ^ SS ~ => CO iCj -f» NJ ^ •C^ C*A g s -f^ ** .^s^ -p* CK e le eo i S; ' S -p» oo -p> CO •(^ s c=a CJi ■*» = s s fo This Book is not the entire distance to knowing hov/. It's only a stepping stone. Keep right on stepping CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 29 THE WEIGHT OF THE HUMAN BODY AND ITS RELA- TION TO HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. IN touching upon the subject of weights, I am, perhaps, inviting much criticism, not because weight is not governed by laws, but for the reason that the method of deriving a conclusion from the combination of the height and width is too subtle to give the same results, unless all conditions are equal. For instance, the weight of different people varies, even when they are of equal height and cir- cumference. The solid or muscular man no doubt weighs more to the square inch than does the soft or flabby individual. The athlete of a given height and body measure would weigh more than would one of the same dimensions who had never done anything to harden his muscles. The man in perfect health weighs more than he would a few days later after some illness had attacked him, without any apparent loss to circumference and of course none to height. Then again, if a man were measured by ten other men for the purpose of ascertaining his weight, there would be ten results, all differing in some respects, which would give ten bases to work from and ten ultimate, different results, whereas only one could be right. This suggests that many who will test the rule given in this connection on a standard scale will find a discrepancy, regardless of whether the basis has been gained faultily, or the composition of the molecules that constitute the weight are more solid or more flabby than normal, or whether the weight of the garments worn is extreme ; the verdict most easily rendered is an unfavorable one. Even when allowances are made for ordinary divergences, the author has met exceptions in his experiments that seemed to defy all rules. The percentages below speak for themselves. Out of a representative group of a hundred men measured and weighed, only 25^ varied more than 10 pounds from average weights in Table 10 below ; 25^ varied less than ten pounds and more than 5 pounds ; 35^ varied between 3 and 5 pounds; 15^ came within i pound and some of these tallied exactly with the weight in the table. This proved that with due allowances for the conditions referred to above there is enough in the rule expressed in Table 10 to furnish a guide as to the kind of an individual we are dealing with, whether of flabby or solid flesh. TABLE 10 /""^IVES the results of the observations as follows: Lhie I, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the same heights in inches. Line 3, the half heights in inches. Litie 4, the first units and fractions of Line 3. 30 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. Line 5, the breast sizes. Line 6, the waist sizes. Line 7, the seat sizes. Line 8, the combined quantities of Lines 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7, which are the weights corresponding to the heights and widths, less some modifications to follow. When the waist gains on the breast above a 4-inch diiTerence, add 10 pounds for the first inch the waist gains and decrease i pound successively for each inch increase after the first. Example: — For a man 5 feet 10 inches in height, 44 breast, 46 waist and 45 seat proceed as follows : Half-height 35 inches First unit 5 " Breast 44 " Waist 46 " Seat 45 " Making 175 pounds To this add for the increase of waist. For 44 breast the waist, if normal, would be 4 inches less, or 40 inches; but the measure calls for 46, hence there are 6 inches to account for. For the first inch increase we allow 10 pounds, 9 pounds for the second, 8 for the third, 7 for the fourth, 6 for the fifth, and 5 for the sixth, making a total of 45 pounds, which when added to the 175 makes a total of 220 pounds. When the waist is less than the 4-inch difference, deduct from the original amount 2\ pounds for each inch. Example : — -If the half-height was 34^, first unit \\, breast, waist and seat, respectively, 36, 30 and ■^'], the total would be 143 pounds. As the waist is 2 inches less than the normal there would be 2 inches to deduct for and 2\ pounds for each inch, or a total of 5 pounds, which when deducted from the 143 pounds would leave 138 pounds. In increasing and decreasing waists the change has not all taken place at the waist region, but the waist quantity serves as an index to the general loss or gain, as the case may be. Besides this, reduce i^ inch from the weight for each inch the height is less than 5 feet 8 inches. Line 9 gives the amount representing the increase of waist above the 5-feet 8 inch height, and the li-inch decrease from the height below the 5-feet 8-inch height. Line 10 gives the weight corresponding to heights and widths, as modified by the variations above. While the above deductions have reached an approximate accuracy that entitles them to consideration, no claim is made that they are infallible. The measures given are tailors' measurements as taken over the vest and not CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 31 VO : '^ On -(- - 5' Cfq' 8 -o O 3 St 5' o C ^^ 3- a. c o 3 5 m CO cr o" O o_ c" 3 3 o 3 D. g. CL 1" n o 5 On ») 3 C/) 2^ -1 P m c o r 5 X EL 3- crq' 3- 5' 5' 3- X n 3" 5' 3' 3" to' 3- 5' Q. 5' 3- n S S3 ^ CaA ^ CO = = S CJI i i: hO CO rX r^ — ?= s^ CO cS I^O - " ISD ?s ISO s^ >*• Ca9 S- CO fe^ ^- CO C*J ui ^ " -» CJi " •pk i«o ISO S .ph ui ^- B CO ^ CJI ^ CJ* cncj» ?^ Ca> CO CO ^ CO " g? 03U1 ft ^ ^- CO Sc S3 ^ CO 5 — lU. = =» 1 C3 S CO ■F* CO *» -r^ s = =» i- CJl i s ^- CO ^- CO ■F> IK s com s = CJi *» ^ •pk CJI CJI = = =r 5 ^ nK IS5- jg ^ •p^ s::- S: ^ ^ CJI s = 5 s 3 S o. ^ 3 ^ % " £ -c^ CJI Co s^ s = E3 s ft -F>' CO :& Sr CO ^ 5-=x Sr CM s £ S: CT> CO s 5 CJI ^ ** s -F> g; -c> CJ^ CO CJ» ■= " S- .^- ^ CO ^ CO CJI K ^ ■f^ ^ -F^ s ^- ^ Ofl CO CJI 3-=! 5^ t ?^ CJi CJI ■c> " ^CJ- CJk» S; Ca> CJI CJ^ ■Pk CO o= OOCJi = .=» 32 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. body measurements ordinarily employed for scientific purposes. The weights are also given for the draped model, or for a man as tailors deal with him. Body measurements are the proper thing when the actual size of man is being ascer- tained, but they would be misguiding in this connection. As the forms dealt with must be divided into classes and understood, so must weight for the extremes be treated likewise. The weight of children and giants could not be closely esti- mated by the method employed in Table lo. If a cutter is not benefited by study- ing this book, there nnay be something the matter v/ith the book; but if the same cutter is not benefited by the study of any other book, there is sonne- thing the matter with the cutter 34 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE ELEMENTS OF SHORT MEASURES BY HEIGHT AND WIDTH. C HORT measures partake of both height and width, excepting the blade, which is taken and appHed laterally only, and is therefore only an element of width. Divisions of the breast measure alone can never give the flexibility to correspond to the different types of men met with in actual practice. For instance, for two men of the same breast circumference the short measures would probably not be alike if the height of one was 5 feet 6 inches and the other was 6 feet 2 inches. The height is a very important factor in arriving at conclusions, modified by the square and sloping shoulder, toward which we will direct our attention later. The tables to follow will be found to give the height and width quantities correctly. Other elements, which enter into the proposition, will of course alter these quantities, but this does not invalidate them within the scope considered in the present connection. THE DEPTH OF SCYE. TABLE 11. T^HIS table gives the elements of the depth of s eye as follows: Line i, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the same heights reduced to inches. Lifie 3, one-fourth of the total heights in inches, which is the quantity we have to deal with in this case. Line 4, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights, which were explained in Table 6. Line 5, the breasts on the 4ths of the square. Line 6, one fourth of the heights on the 4ths of the square. Line 7, the totals of Lines 5 and 6 and the amounts of the depths of scyes as taken. All minor fractions that tend to confuse have been left out. Line 8 allows f inch for seams and make-up, but may be more or less according to the requirements of individual systems, or according to the custom of the operator. The elements of the scye depth are therefore one-half breast on the ^ths, the one-fourth heights on the 4ths, and the f ifich addition. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 35 cc ^j Ch : +. OJ : r 5' o •a 3- 5- K H' a. c c •a 3 o il in ^ o «. 3 3- -fj " 3- 3- : »?■ 3- ■ O o 3 o" 3- cr O 3 o" c B- 3- 3- 5' 5' 3" 5' 3- : : f 5' 3 a. 5' S —J >!? CO Ch> Si oa CJ1 — t bu ^ " en o» C71 5-=X ^ CO -pk i«o «i 03 INSC71 -^" OS eu en OS CO CO CJ1 CO es -p:^ -p> ^ 03 s CO ■«k ^ CM en 9» s CJ1 CJ1 CO 00\ 36^ -p>i CO en OS OS OS OSCTI = ==» CO oo 5^ eo -^1 23 ~1C»1 CO CO ■1^ bo OS --J S OOCJI CO ^ 0^ eo CO S GOCJ1 ^ CO CJl ^ — 1 —J SCTI •^ CO en o5\ -P» —J r3~\ CO en S oe —J =s ^ CO exi fi == CJ1 ^ CO en :& — J 7»J = CJI ^= f^ CJ1 s; —4 5^ 5cn ^ ^ ** ^ en ^ -^ ~J So =* — Sr en £i OS CO i^ ^ o* ^ ^ 4^^ OS CO CO cn i;- ^ 09 s OS oo jScji i^ ^ -K s —4 OS ee eocji 36 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE BLADE. T TABLE 12. HIS table gives the elements of the blade which only deal with the widths, as the measure is taken in a lateral direction. Therefore widths only are employed in its production. As the heights are not used, they are not entered in this cojinection. Line i, the breast sizes. Line 2, one-fourth total breasts, or the half-breasts on the halves of the square. Line 3, 2 inches added to the quantities of Line 2, which is the blade as taken, without additions. Line 4, li inch added to Line 3, or 3^ inches added to Line 2, which gives the totals as applied to the drafts, with all additions for seams, ease and make up. The blade is therefore composed of the half breast on the halves plus 3^ inches. THE FRONT-SHOULDER MEASURE BY HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. npiIlS table contains the demerits of the front-sliojdder ?)ieasure, or strap, and partakes of both height and width as it is taken and applied obliquely, pass- ing both in a vertical and a lateral direction. TABLE 13. Line i, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, one-fourth the heights reduced to inches and the quantities dealt with for securing the height element. Line 3, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights of Line i. Line 4, one-fourth the total breasts, or the half-breasts on the halves of the square. Line 5, the one-fourth heights on the 6ths of the square. Line 6, the totals of Lines 4 and 5, or the front-shoulder as taken. Line 7, the addition of one inch for seams, case and make-up, which may be made more or less. The front-shoulder measure is therefore composed of the halj-breast on the halves and the fourth-height on the 6ths phis 1 inch. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 37 ■vj _^ : ,; r o a 5' :j- C D. O o ^ o :- r ■ +- ■ c ■ o" ■J- O rt o' B' 3- o 3 Cn 3- c -1 5- 5- n C y o 3 o' 3- ac,' 3- tjq' 3- 5' 3 C- 5' 3- ~ s rv\ ~^_ c= ^ CJl -P^ -S^^ ^ Caj CJl i^ 66^ O^ CO " CJl r5\ r^o en os^ db^i 4^^ OJ en CO CJl f3 6^ ^ Ss^ ~_ CO an -pa CJl ?3\ ^ ^ CjO ^ CJl cn >4? ^Si" CO CTJ an K3\ OJ CJl CaJ ^ CO CaJ — 1 CT3 ~IC^ Vi' CO CO 03 —J CO CJl Sir Se CO CO CO -~i CO CJl 3" 3; 6s^ ho ° g —J S CJl & %: -p" —4 = CJl ^^^ Caj % hO CO CD ^ :^*^ >k -p» Co — J = CJl 555:? S^ — -p> -p» — !^ i< 4=- CJI ^ S CJl en S is^ -^ ^ p" cr> iir :5 ^CJl CXI to S -p» CO —J CO CJl cr> CJl r3 -p» ■^1 6&< W^ CJl '^ "^ 1^3^ CJl C3 —J OO CJl •f^ OJ ,; 5 S. 5' Q. "" D-p ; H : ^ ■ F 5' 5p : ^ '. n . o- ■ o : C ! 5' ; 'o' - p o 3 o" C 5- 1 P = CO CO C3 ^^ CO it — inS^; ° CO CO NO ^^s^ 03 c2 hO ^ 03 CO ■P» ^ ^f\ Se :^ CO en = CO CO -^\ CO CO CO t^ ro\ CO CO $<: i^ ^ CO CO NO e=> -p> >s^ "^ ^ -p» -p* ro ^ ho ro ^ -P» CO = :& ^ >4? CO ^ 4=» CJl n3\ fo\ -|S« eji ^^ i5^ £; ^>C ^ NO -p* tn NO -p» CO an i»o en 38 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE BY HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. T^HIS table gives the elements of the over-shoulder measure, which, as it is taken and appHed over a region where it passes in both vertical and lateral directions, partakes of both height and width. TABLE 14. Line I, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, one-fourth the heights reduced to inches and the quantities dealt with for securing the height element. Li?ie 3, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights of Line i. Line 4, the half-breasts on the scale of two-thirds of the square. Line 5, -^^ the total heights, or for convenience, one-fourth the total heights . on the SCALE or fourths. Line 6, the totals of Lines 4 and 5. Line 7. the stationary quantity of | inch added to the quantities in Line 6, except that for greater convenience the small fractions have been left off. These are the corresponding quantities to the measure as taken on a person, which does not include allowance for making. Line 8, f inch, which is the making allowance and includes all additions employed. The over-shoulder measure is therefore composed of \ of the half-breast and \ of one-fourth the height plus f inch, to which f inch is added for making. ELEMENTS OF SHORT MEASURES BY WIDTHS, OR BREAST SIZES ONLY. As the height is not always obtainable, we have made the short measures also workable by the breast size alone, and while they cannot be flexible, as in the preceding tables, they will answer all general purposes for proportionate sizes. THE DEPTH OF SCYE. TABLE 15 IVES the scye depths by the breast sizes, as follows: Line i, the breast sizes. Line 2, the half-breasts on the 3rds. Line 3, stationary quantity of 3^ inches. Line 4, the totals of Lines 2 and 3 which give the scye depth. The depth of scye is therefore \ breast plus i\ inches. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 39 :^ -^ ^^ ■^ CO ce :^ ^ <^^ ^ 4^\ ^ ^ >N :^ K >v :& cc ^ a\ +- r 5' 5' :r 3 c 5L o" j: O 4-N < 5 n n 3 ~ n Cl. id :^ D- ■ D- : 5 • p • 5 • 3 H o o r 5' n 3 c Jq'E 3- ■-• 3 O 2 3 OC, §•'0 : . 3 ■ o" c -1 • 3- 5- 2 "1 G o" c -1 S- rr ft crq' 3- 3' 5' 3- X crq' 3' P 3 D. 3' 3- i^ ^ C ^ -P» 55 CT» ejri •** i^ CM en o» cn CJ1 03 cn o5e o5\ ro CM a? 03 03 CJl CO ■4:^ ^ CM —J 09 eo — 1 en 4^ CM 00 — «l 00 CJl OS W CM ^ -^ CO CJl CO eo —4 *» ^ w S 5 CJl CO eo oo b3 -^ = CJl CO CO BO 1^ ■** ;5 eo OS IS9 CO fie 30 S ■=eji S ^ eo CO ^_ ^ — I ^CJI INS ^0 CO CT1 S ^ J^"- 5cjt ■o in ^ ^ 5 CJl g cn ^ ^ is^ ^CJl *o 33 < ^ ^ CJl K : NO n < g ■ 1 a- «o 1 39 = - ■»i DO C71 40 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE BLADE. TABLE 16. 'THIS table gives the component parts of the blade by the breast sizes. Line i, the breast sizes. Line 2, one-fourth the total breasts, or half-breasts on the halves of the square. Line 3, the stationary quantity of 3I inches. Line 4, the totals of Lines 2 and 3, which are the blade sizes corresponding to the breast sizes. Tlie blade is therefore one-half the breast size on the halves and 3^ inches. THE FRONT-SHOULDER. TABLE 17. THIS table gives the front-shoulder measures or strap lengths by the breast sizes. Line I, the breast sizes. Line 2, one-fourth full breasts, or half-breasts on the halves of the square. Line 3, stationary quantity of 3! inches. Line 4, the totals of Lines 2 and 3, which are the front-shoulder measures corresponding to the breasts. The front-shoulder meas7irc is therefore one-half breast on the scale of halves and 3f inches. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 41 4~ o^ 3' _ -1 CL o c = c- " ■ o ' E. ■ E . m : > : S- •' 5' ; 3 P 5' D -1 D- 5' p 3 i- o- o 3- P_ C J Sc ^ rSx CO ^ CO S" CO *:'?' ^-\ oo r>o K» C«J -iix CO ^- ^ ^ ^ KJ ^ ^^ CO CJI ^^ ^ CO - OJ i^ CO Co \- CO S^ CdO r- 5S s^ CO = -p- ^ •^~ -p» CO = s ^ i^ i^ s oo — :& CJi -S^ -^ CJi ^^ CO ^ ^ ^ >\ -ff^ -p» eji -^'^ ^ -p» cr. f'N iNj -f^ s ■^ ^ NO CJI ^^ >c >*^ :^ :^ >c SiC 42 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE. TABLE 18. T^HIS table gives the over-shoulder measures by the breast sizes. Line I, the breast sizes. Line 2, \ of half-breasts. Line 3, stationary quantity, <^\ inches. Line 4, the total of Lines 2 and 3, which are the over-shoulder measures by the breast sizes. The over-shoulder measure is therefore -| of the half breast and 5^ inches. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 43 •t- :: ,; r |o c" n o. ^ : o . c_ ! ft' : > ■ c- ; D. ■ §' 5' 3 ■3 a. D- 5' 3 s. o CJ1 m ^ = CJI.3 CJ' ^~ — ^_ =, OJ "^ en = CO '5? -p» ^? i^ " "S; ^ s? S*:? en ^3 CO i^- en ISO ~ en - ss ^ cn ■(:> ^ cn CaJ -P» '^ cn -f* S ^ cn s ^. cn ^ ^ :& cn cn -pa CJl KJ cn o5^ -f» ^ cn cn -p» 5i: cn ^ ■O i^ ^ S Ig?' ^ o^ cn 44 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. ADDITIONS TO SHORT MEASURES EdR OVERCOATS. A S an undercoat goes over the vest, so an overcoat goes over the undercoat ; and as the undercoat is usually measured over the vest, so an overcoat can, perhaps, best be measured over the undercoat ; but whether this be so or not, cer- tain it is that the same results must be attained by both methods. The explana- tion following will be with that end in view. Let us suppose we have only the measures as taken over the vest for an undercoat and are called upon to make an overcoat from them in one case, and then take the same measures over an undercoat in another case. As both methods aim at producing the same thing, the two sets of measure- ments, with proper allowances, should produce the same results, with the provision that those taken over the undercoat are not taken over a garment too heavily padded or of too heavy or too light weight goods. A two-inch increase of the measures taken on the undercoat over those taken on the vest may be considered the basis for the breast and waist quantities. This will not allow for extra drapery, as in box coats, but drapery is not a matter of measurements, merely a matter of emphasized width quantities, and therefore does not apply in this connection. Let us take two instances, one of measures taken over the vest and the other taken over the undercoat and compare them as follows : 36 breast 8f depth II blade iij front Over the vest with additions 36 breast gj depth 12 J blade I2f front I7i over Over the undercoat as taken 38 breast 9 depth 11 J blade 12J front 17J over Over the undercoat as taken with ordinary additions. 38 breast gi depth 13 blade I3i front 18 over As both methods should be 38 breast g| depth I3i blade I3i front i8i over An overcoat of any given size should, of course, be more ample than an under- coat of the same size as the undercoat comes closer to the body and is less subject to shoulder building and less affected by the weight of the vest material. Only the front of a vest is made of heavy material, the back is made from a light weight lining, while the overcoat has to pass over the back, front and sleeves of the undercoat, which are all of the same weight. Our aim is, therefore, to make such additions to the measures that, whether they are taken over the vest or over the coat, they will tally with the measures marked " As both methods should be" in the above comparative example. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 45 TABLE 19 prXPLAINS the additions made to measures taken over the vest to get the results explained above, so as to make them workable in order to gain over- coat measures by them. Column I gives respectively breast, waist, depth, blade, front and over- shoulder measures as taken over the vest. Column 2, the additions to make them overcoat measures. Colicnin 3, the resultant overcoat measures with additions included — the measures as they should be used. Measures Over the Vest 1 2 3 Breast 37 PLUS 2 = 39 Waist 34 " -' = 36 Depth 1% " \% = 10 Blade iiX 2/4 = I3^a Front shoulder 12 " \% = \l% Over shoulder .. 16?^ " \% = \ii Measures Over the Coat 1 Columns 1 2 3 — Breast 39 PLUS = 39 Waist 36 ■• ■■ = 36 Depth 9^ " 7/ /s = 10 Blade ilX ■• \% = 13^ Front shoulder 12^ iX = \l% Over shoulder — _. -^.^^ \1% " jJ = 18/2 TABLE 10. tabLiE: 20. TABLE 20. T^HIS table gives an example of measures taken on the same man as in the preceding table, but in this case over the undercoat. Column I is respectively the breast, waist, depth, blade, front and over-shoul- der measures as taken over the undercoat. Column 2, the additions required for overcoats. Colufnn 3, the resultant measures with additions included — the measures as they should be used for overcoats. It will be seen that the results are the same in Tables 19 and 20, as of course should be the case in two methods which have in view the same end. The differ- ence is all made in Columns i and 2, and is merely a matter of addition to make the result uniform, regardless of whether the measures are taken over the undercoat or over the vest. 46 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. SHORT MEASURES FOR OVERCOATS. 'THE governing principles in obtaining overcoat measures are identical with those already explained for undercoats. The difference consists in additions only, as the primary heights and widths are the same. THE DEPTH OF SCYE FOR OVERCOATS. TABLE 21 r^ IVES the depth of scye for overcoats as follows : Lzne I, the heights in feet and inches. Jizne 2, the breast sizes for overcoats corresponding to the heights given, which, it will be noticed, are two sizes larger than for undercoats. As a man remains the same height whether he is having an overcoat or an undercoat made, the over- coat to go on top of the undercoat must be two sizes larger, as it has a greater circumference to cover. Lzne 3 introduces the waist sizes, which have also increased two sizes, having a corresponding increase of circumference to cover. As an overgarment is always an ample one, the basis for these waist quanti- ties is the same as those given in Table g. Line 4, the depths of scye corresponding to the heights and widths given, which for overcoats is \ inch more than the depths of scye for undercoats of the same heights and widths as given in Table 11. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 47 *- u> s v. 3* a n S" O n> -^ W n X n> B' P a el- s' CO > Co i>o CJ1 ^ 1: CO CJl to ^ ^ r*o CJl CO ?. CO en CO en CO CO CO Cjo f!^ CO CO -^ CJl CJl ^ CO en CjO 03 CJ3CJ1 ° ; CO CjO CO — 1 CJl ^ ^- g CO CJl 3* =5 ^ CjO -P- CO CJl ^ -P> ;5 OCJl •p» =: CJl 5 S ^ en Oo^ & == CJl -^ ^ = CJl i^ :5 OCJi sv CO C9 Scji i^ rSC S KM^ "^ ^ en NO cn CO CJl ^ co_ en OO CJl — CTI ISO GO CJl 48 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE BLADE MEASURE FOR OVERCOATS. TABLE 22. I-IERE we have the blade measures for overcoats. The method is explained in Table 12, and the additions given in Tables 19 and 20 apply in this case. The heights are omitted, as only widths are dealt with. Line i, the corresponding breast sizes for overcoats. Line 2, the corresponding blade quantities, which are \ inch more than the blade measures for inidercoats of the same heigJds and ividths as given in Table 12. THE FRONT MEASURE FOR OVERCOATS. TABLE 23. T^HIS table contains the front-shoulder measures for overcoats. The explana- tions for additions in Tables 19 and 20 apply to this table. Line i, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights. Line 3, the front-shoulder measures, which are \ inch in excess of those given for the juidcr coats of the same size and height. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 49 1^ : r 5" 3 O C_ 3 w 3 a 3 Slo So CJ1 13 bo ?■= NO -p> =■=3: NO CO en CO CJl rs3 CO **cn CjO — «l CO c3 ^ ^J CJi ^ -P> ao CJI -F^ — ^ e S en ^ :Me fe =' =s s en •*:» = CJi CJl era =: cji :5 S cji CTS S S en o5 -p» 5" =C CTS en CO CJI ct:> en j!? en rv3 CO CJI ,: r H a. >< " So CO NO ^ So S? NO CO CO CO —J s^ ^ ^ 5S s^ -p>. ^ -^ NO e en -P» en ^ en :5 en -p» o» CO en "^ en NO 50 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE TOR OVERCOATS. TABLE 24. T^HIS table gives the over-shoulder measures for overcoats. The additions are explained in Tables 14, 19 and 20. Line I, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the corresponding breast sizes. Line 3, the overs hozilder quantities according to additions in Tables 19 and 20, which are ^ itich greater than those employed in the undercoats of the same heights and widths. This gives a practical basis to work from and will be found very convenient for practical application. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 51 C7I NO CJ1 Oi -^ ss OS*? Cjl> INJCJI ^ JS CO CJ1 Si bo 05 .^ C71 —J -~l CJI CJl as OS — ^ eo p5^ CO OS -p> oo en ^^ -p*. OD CJI CO NO S CJI C£> 6^ S = CJI r>o -P> =S IV3 £; ==CJ1 IV3 = CJI NO :e; B CJt hO -1^ Scji NJ s "^CJi NO s CO CJI NO Cfi NO C71 OOCJ1 52 CARLSTR0M3 PROPORTIONS. THE ELEMENTS OF LONG MEASURES BY HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. I ONG measures, or shoulder measures, traverse sections of the body at the region indicated by the name. They partake of both the heights and widths of the parts covered in their taking; but as the purposes of the upper and lower measures are of a different nature the measures must be treated differently. The effects to be gained by the use of long measures are the shoulder slope and the shoulder size, the former a height quantity and the latter a width quantity. This suggests that the upper-shoulder measure should register quantities towards gaining the heights, and therefore should partake of the heights as well as of the widths, while the lower-shoulder measure should distribute the size quantities, and therefore can only partake of the breast sizes or widths. This arrangement holds the lower measures at relatively proportionate quantities corresponding to the breast sizes. The height element gives greater flexibility to the upper meas- ures for a greater slope in the slender sizes and squareness in the corpulent forms, or according to the combination of the elements dealt with as taken and applied in actual practice. THE UPPER-SHOULDER MEASURE. TABLE 25. T^HIS table deals with the upper-shoulder measure by both heights and widths as follows : Line i, the heights as explained in Table 6. Line 2, the same heights reduced to inches. Line 3, \ of total heights in inches or the division of the heights that we have to deal with. Line 4, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights. Line 5, I" of the fourth-heights. Line 6, f of the half-breasts. Line 7, \ of the half-breasts. Line 8, the totals of Lines 5, 6 and 7, which make the quantity of the upper shoulder. Line 9 gives practically the same results, but does away with the fractions — the upper shoulder as it is to be used. The dippers houlder measure is therefore co77tposed of \ of the fourth-height -| of i.'ie half-breast and \ breast. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 53 ^ CO -' : +- OJ ,; 5' m r-t- ; o H C P "3 ^ -J n o '■ o cr p o 3- P o c 3- K crq' X 5' 3' 3- rfq' p ISO NO oS-'y = ° <=3 en s CJl ^ NO ^ en ^2. CJl to CO NO CO NO c:?^ ci~ CO NO ^ CTJ NO r^o cjn hO "-C " >^ s C*J CJl NO ^ 03^ ^ CT» -P> 4=. CJl 3 =1 CO en eT> en CJl CJl en NO en NO NO — CO ^ e« CTJ cn NO cn — 1 CT5 o? fS NO NO oS\ 03 —J CO CO CJl 05 CO ^fe\ s CO CJl NO NO 1 NO r5\ Zo c«^ g — 1 S en NO NO -F^ —J - = CJl NJ NO NO ^ ^ NO 03 hO 03 NO NO -P- —J — 1 1^ ^ CJl NO CO 6^ CO ^ ^ ^>'^ ^ :& —J ^ ^ CJl NO CO -p» en — «l — i S CJl NO CO NO CO NO 05C do\ -P=. — J — i S CJl Cjo CO 6&\ -P» —J CTS CO 1^ CO CJl CO rS<; CO ^ ^ -P» CO ^ i-^: CO C^ CJl ^ ^ -p» CO —J ^r* i^ CO 6o^ OoC o5 05^ Si? en ^ SO aocji 54 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE LOWER-SHOULDER MEASURE. T^HIS table is for the lower-shoulder measures. The results are found in the following manner by the breast sizes, or the widths alone : TABLE 26. Li7ie \, the breast sizes. Line 2, \ of the half-breasts. Line 3, half-breasts on the halves of the square. Line 4, stationary addition of 3^ inches. Line 5, the totals which give the lower shoulders. The lowers hotclder measure is therefore composed of '\ and \ of the half breast plus 3-^ inches. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 55 1 1 -^ 3 ^ •^ (:. 0» IJ - ^ X - a (li o ^ yj O" CI- O J3 -i 1 5 P -> ^ n .;< S " Sr* s w o — (fl 3" o ^ ^ c -t r' ^ ^ ?J ^ o ^ ■ ^ -J CaJ f^ ^ ^ ro t*3 —J CO oJ^ ri\ -^ B Ca> CO o I~o oS~C r>^ u^ r_pT CO fs<- ^>^ NO c*a oo ^i -p> ^ihl- ro^ TO CO rox! r>o en ^ CO CO —J eji r^ CO r>o CO oo CO CO eT> t;?^ >^ IS.9 bJ s CO -p» Ss^ ti-- t;fc — ■p» —4 -f^ ^ CO ri\ 4^ 4^ OT _ -p» ri\ :^ i>o c« ^ ^ Oo'^' ro\ Cs^ to. .^ :^ -p» cx> CO — — ^ 6^ T>i< ^JC c^ f d^ ^-. -p>. C3 6S^ .^ ^fe^ bJ " hO CT^ s fs-; - PJ< — -p» oo<; ^Ji-C " ~— CJl ar> &< r\)x r\j\ CS\ J 56 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. LONG MEASURES FOR OVERCOATS. 'T'HE explanation already made in connection with the change of measures from undercoats to overcoats applies in a general way to long measures as well as to short measures, but to make it more directly applicable to those in hand we take the following example : For a 38 breast taken over the vest we have 26|- upper shoulder and 25I- lower shoulder. As an overcoat should be two sizes larger than an undercoat the measures if taken over the undercoat should be as follows: 40 breast, 27^ upper shoulder, 26^ lower shoulder. As an overcoat should have greater ease than an undercoat and is made from heavier material ^ inch should be added to the shoulder measures. With this addition the measures are as follows: 27! upper shoulder, 27-^ lower shoulder. TABLE 27. TTHIS table gives the upper-shoulder measures for overcoats according to the above deductions. Line i, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the corresponding breast sizes for overcoats. Lhie 3, the upper-shoulder measures for overcoats corresponding to the heigths of Line i and the widths of Line 2. TABLE 28. T^filS table gives the lower-shoulder measures arranged on the same plan as the preceding table. Line i, the breast sizes. As the lower shoulder does not partake of height, none is given. Line 2, the lower-shoulder measures for overcoats corresponding to the breast sizes in Line i. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 57 CM Iv3 CM J3 5S CM cn CM en m K <^^ CO r NO CM CO !3 S —J -P» &§ ■^ S OS s N.3 CO CM en ^ CM 5^ :5 cw 03 s ISO cyi CO — CM ^o r 5' i C w -a • o ■ £• ■ S ■ 'n ; o" ■ o . < Heights in feet and inches. . . . Breast sizes hO CM hO CJl ro S S CJl i>o CO S ^ CJl ISO CO ^ 03 ISO CO CJl = CJl CM en S" =t CM ^ 5 CJl CM -P* S CJl CM CO «^CJ1 do-*? CJl CO CJl ^"^ ^^^ CM CO ^ -^ CM K3 1 OS -J ^ —J CM CM Si OS —J k3 —4 CM ^ NO —4 CM en CO —J en -J CM OS ->• cs eo en CM CM CO 03 CO en —J CM eo CO CO 4^ eo CM en CM CO 1 -^ ° ea en OS ° i 4tC CO CM en OS 0^ ^ i5 i; CO S en OS s s ^ CO ^- en OS s :& = CO CTS OS -P:> en ic ^ OS OS S ^ ^ ^ tn OS OS g :^ ^ ^ 03 00^ OS :S tso ^ rCKT OS CO ^ s = en 03 CO CO en IV3 ^fc\ a? CO en C5 60 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. ANATOMICAL SECTIONAL DIVISION OF THE HEIGHT OF THE HUMAN BODY. I IP to this point we have not only dealt with heights and widths in themselves, but we have also defined their relation to each other. The rules laid down cover the range of the quantities dealt with in the prac- tice of garment cutting and designing, which constitute a system -of computation that is unique- because it is more or less original, yet scientific because it is in accordance with the truth of anatomy. The chapter in hand draws upon the general fund of knowledge of propor- tions, known as the " Octaval System," as applied in sculpture and painting, which has been handed down from the era of Grecian culture. With various modifications, representing individual conceptions, it is taught in all schools of art and understood by all artists. Tailoring has only applied it, not invented it, and Dr. Wampen was undoubtedly the means of laying the founda- tion for its use in the production of garments. Though tailors sometimes boast of familiarity with anatomy, we know of no anatomical proportions applicable to tailoring except those employed by artists in counterfeiting the human form. It would surprise many to know how absolutely devoid of knowledge of pro- portions of the exterior of the human body physicians as a class are. The anat- omy they study is of the organs and bones, and the average physician closes his " Gray's Anatomy," when his college course is ended, practically never to open it again. General education is a thing to be commended, bttt the co7ifounding of anatomy with tailoring shows a lack of proper education. The knowledge a physician has of anatomy is as useless to a tailor in drafting garments as a knowledge of mineralogy would be to a sailor in order that he might know, should his ship be wrecked on a reef, the nature of the rock on which she struck. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 61 THE OCTAVAL DIVISION ILLUSTRATED. 'T'HOUGH no fixed set of rules will apply in all cases, the following divisions of the human body will be found to approximate to the general average development, so that where they do not apply, when the subject is properly classified (as hereafter explained) will be the exception. The figures introduced show the profile back and front of the human form divided into eight sections. Each eighth is again subdivided into eight parts, making the total height of the body eight times eight, or 64 units. This may have been the reason why Dr. Wampen selected the 5 feet 4 inch height as the ideal, as it gives one inch to each unit and an even eight inches to each eighth part, or head, as it is sometimes called, because the head approximately composes one of the eight parts. Different systems of reckoning, however, differ on this point. 62 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE FIGURES. PLATE 1. T^HE divisions fall as illustrated on the figures and can be described in their least complicated form as follows : The first eighth (or head) is the head proper, or from the top of the head to just below the chin in front and to the nape of the neck in the back, as at Line i on the figures. The second head (or eighth) is the height quantity from Line r to Line 2, or from the chin to the nipples in front, and from the nape of the neck in the back to a point on the back opposite where the arms join the trunk at the scye level. The third head falls from Line 2 to Line 3, or from the nipples to the navel in front, and from the scye level to the small waist in the back. The fourth head iaUs from Line 3 to Line 4, or from the navel to the groin in front, and from the small waist to the heavy part of the seat in the back. The fifth head (alls from Line 4 to Line 5, or from the groin to midthigh in front, and from the seat to midthigh in the back. The sixth head falls from Line 4 to Line 5, or from the midthigh to below the knee-cap in front, and from the mid-thigh to just below the knee, or at the top of the calf, in the back. The seventh head falls from Line 6 to Line 7, or from below the knee-cap to opposite the lower end of the calf in front, and from the top of the calf to below the lower part of the calf in the back. The eighth head {alls from Line 7 to Line 8, or from opposite the lower calf to the bottom of the foot in front, and from below the lower calf to the bottom of the heel in the back. All students of proportions should familiarize themselves with these divis- ions in order better to understand some of the explanations to follow. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 63 Plate i 64 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE ILLUSTRATION APPLIED. TABLE 30. IN this table we have the application of the foregoing illustrations. It shows various exact measures of important divisions of the body for application in actual practice. Line i, the heights from 5 feet up to 6 feet 6 inches, which include about all the heights that are met with in the construction of garments of all kinds for men. Line 2, the heights reduced to inches. Line 3 shows the measures corresponding to the heights of Lines i and 2 for each section (or head) as between any two of the lines numbered consecutively in the accompanying figure, previously explained. As the human figure is composed of eight of these sections, the amounts in this line if multiplied by 8 will give the total height. As for example : under the 6-foot height in the line we are dealing with, we have 9 inches. This 9 if multiplied by the number of sections, or 8, gives 72 inches, the number of inches in the 6 foot height. Line 4 shows the subdivision of each section, or head, into 8 units, and this line gives the amount of each unit. As the body has been first divided into 8 sec- tions, as per Line 3 of this table, and as this line (4) is a further subdivision of each section into eight units, each unit becomes ^i;^ part of the total height. There- fore, if we multiply any of the numbers of Line 4 by 64, we gain the total height corresponding, as per Lines i and 2. Example: Under the 5 foot 4 inch height in Line 4 of this table we have i inch, and 64 times i inch is 64 inches, which is the number of inches contained in the 5 feet 4 inch height. Again, in the 5 feet 8 inch column of Line 4 we find j-j^, which is equal to ly^g^ inch. 64 times i is 64 and 64 times ^^ is ||, or 4 full inches. These 4 inches, when added to the 64 already obtained, make a total of 68 inches, which is the number of inches con- tained in the 5 feet 8 inch height. (The fractions in this line have not been reduced, but held at the 64ths, as 64 is the total number of units dealt with and therefore more easily seen at a glance.) The above explanations give us a clear understanding of the component quantities of height as they actually occur in the forms dealt with. Their counter- parts will be found in every form, subject to the compensating features to be explained later. The rest of this table is the application of the above principles to locate cer- tain divisions, and is embodied here so that it will prove convenient in connection with the quantities of Lines 3 and 4, where the sections- and units are figured ready for use in finding the measure of any division of the body. All lengths to follow are, of course, given from the nape of the neck, as we do not clothe the head proper. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 65 1 r - - - 3 CO ^ o^ ^ 4- o. u - m X rc X X X X X n n rt n oCrq_ 3 :r Cfq g? P — " o TO 3" crq 3- -■^ • J3 C P 3 ■ c 5- o^ 3' 5' ■ p '. ^ 3 S. t) ft ■ o ■ O o ■ o ■ 3 p- : o" : ^ 3- : 3 ■ O . 3 ; O 3 3- ^ * •-* • tA 2' s ; 3 ■ p '. S' • crq_ ■ ^ ■ _ • ^ -1^ —a iera~ «;: CJl —J rv3 ct5^ =» rS^ ?5\ ^&\ 4»\ rS\ ■^ ro — CTiv? — «i cn ^ CJl en OS \»ji ^— = =S •^ 06fC oS^ rJ 4i^ -P» ="=S ■pk t>o — -^ oo OD cjicn ^^ <^^ Si\ ^ (^ ej. 3"=S - • .r« ■P> NO » ■^ OO ^n OSCJl 09 r GO CJl en 4^< ^ fee oo =" =* en .^ __ „_ 09 a? CO CJl *^ <5&*i ^ 65^ ='.= en r>o .^ ^— —J NO CO o» \a» >^ C3 l^fC ■J^ -^ -t^ -f-^ =" r* -P^ — ^ ^ CJl -P> CT> OS c^^ 00^^ — =" =5 ^^ <*< w-^ -f>-^ ■r» |SJ _-. eo — 1 03 -P" oo t^ =5 en ■^> ^_ _^ ^ ■■" 03 -P» en -^ eo — •' nr >^ 6^ 6^ ^5\ ^x 6s< cn ■P> — ^_ CO — ^ K>cn t^ -fc-^ •^ ^ ^ = =!= -P- K3 i,^ _ — J C*J o? CT» oa CO \v^ ^" s -^ iS^:- •^^ 4*^ Oo\ _— CO — J 4^03 —.1 CTS ^3\ .^ -t^c •*^ ^ en ■P> NO — . CO CJl 05 :^ 6B\ 6&y ri^ t^ —J = ==^ NO — — ..^ re~% —J OTOS f^ ^^ CO ^. ^ S" =5^ 66 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. Line 5 gives the lengths corresponding to the heights from the nape of the neck to the natural waist, or from Lines i and 3 of the figure, or two sections of the body, giving the natural waist length. The seam lost on sewing on the collar, or \ inch, may be added when this quantity is used to gain the natural waist length in actual practice. It will be noticed this line gives twice the quantities contained in Line 3 plus \ inch. Line 6 covers the distance from the nape of the neck to the heavy part of the seat and the quantities of this line add another section to the two dealt with in the previous line, or from I^ine i to Line 4 of the figure. To find the length to the seat, find the amount in Line 3 corresponding to the height dealt with, and multiply by 3 for the three sections it covers. Example : For a 5 foot 10 inch height the amount of one section is 8f inches. (See Line 3.) 3 times 8 is 24 inches, and 3 times | inch is 2\ inches, and 24 and 2\ is 26^, as in this line. Line 7, the lengths from the nape of the neck to just below the knee, which cover five sections of the body, as from Line i to Line 6 of the illustration. To find this length, first find the amount of one section in Line 3 correspond- ing to the height dealt with, and multiply the amount by 5. Example : For 6 feet 2 inches, the amount of one head in Line 3 is <^\ inches. 5 times 9 is 45. 5 times \ is \\. 45 inches plus \\ inch is 46J inches, as per Line 7. Line 8, the lengths from the nape of the neck to below the calf, as from Line I to Line 7, or 6 sections of the figure. To find these lengths proceed as before by finding the amount of one section corresponding to the height dealt with and multiply the same by 6. Example : For the 5 feet 6 inch height, one section is 8| inches, as per Line 3. 6 times 8 is 48 and 6 times ^ is i^, which together make 49^, as per Line 8. In the preceding tables we have covered the essential points dealt with in constructing a model for the draping of the upper portion of the trunk proper. We are now ready to get the total by placing the results in a combination table that will contain the results of all of the previous deductions, giving the essential points in a condensed form for ready reference, from which lengths can be gained at a glance. The memory can always be refreshed on how the quantities v/ere gained by referring to the past tables. NO CLAIM IS MADE ■ That this is the only work on propor- tions that cutters can read, under- stand and apply That this is the first time results have been served up ready for con- sumption. That this is the first book that has handled the subject exhaustively That this is the first book on the subject published on this continent We have simply never heard of any book of the kind 68 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE WORKING TABLE FOR AVERAGES. I IP to this point we have gathered the raw material for the building of some- thing tangible. Next is presented a table of averages containing all the important quantities, scientifically arranged, that are dealt with in everyday prac- tice. In the form presented this table will prove exceedingly helpful for general work, or as a standard by which measures taken may be checked as well as a guide for all width and length quantities. It will prove a revelation of the inaccuracy of measures to compare them with this table. Such comparison, perhaps, may at first convince any one who tries them of the inaccuracy of this table, but repeated trials will reveal the fact that measures and the individual methods of taking them are so varying that the measures can be made to describe almost any dimension desired. A method of measuring will be acquired by this table that will be approxi- mately accurate by checking your measures, because you will know what they ought to be and will be more careful in taking them. This can easily be. proved by comparing two sets of measures taken on the same individual at different times. Very seldom are they near enough alike to give the same practical results. TABLE 31. 'THIS table does not give the dimensions for all types of men. Further on will be given other tables for other types, but it is first necessary to make ourselves familiar with the average type. The author knows of no other table so n-early complete as this. It has all additions included. The notations at each line explain themselves. For the minute details refer to the tables noted. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 69 ^ ,- 4 ,.^' ;j y' r -x -" - : -' -' r - = : : ^ : +- ^; G r, X -■■_x s s n r 7- 'Ji : o '. o : p '. 'S. 9. 5- o J-. rr s. \ 1 3" 2 ■ 7f. > 5' 5 — p ■A S' "7. i -~l s; " KS ::^ 03 05 f^ NO ^ = = eo NO OO CO «= s; - CO ar> eo ^ CO CO 6s^ en 2(2 —J ^ ^ CT» 03 *~3 NO en 5^ ^&^ ^ ^ ^^-'=; ^ ^ en = =_ CTS CJi — < ^ CO NO en — J oo >^ ^ NO NO <^\ S? ri^ OSxl NO CO CO NO — en = CO CT5 NO |sj CJI OS IV3 CO NO CO 55 ^s — i CO —4 ■p> o5\ —J NO NO £3 o» S^^ i^ cao CO ^ en '' ^ £2 OJ CJI en ^ ■«!» -f:> :s oo oo i^ —J NO S o^ ^ CO eo CO -P:> NO o» ' NO s .pk C71 -pa> CO OS -p» fe^ ^ oo oo —J —J NO NO CO ^ cn ^ CTS i NO cn CJI cn CO CO OS NO 5» r ^ CO —J 4^ cr% —J NO NO en CO eo NO CO CO OS : CO 05 05 CJT NO en NO en o5\ ;: ^ —J —J CJl E e*i 6 1^ t5^ 5^ ^ fix oo en —J NO cn NO o» 5^ oo CO CO CO CO oo -Pk —J - CO -p» oo = ==; = en 5if -t». ^ oo ^ f^ en NO art NO ^ c3 eo CO fi\ CO CO ' CO -p^ CT> CO CO CJI ~ OS NO NO o» —J i^ oo 4^ = oo >5? en oo NO er> CO ^ CO fix =. CO — 1 ^ en = CO cn — 1 C3 S cj» NO CO NO an oo ^ oo -S^ CO i^ Oo\ NO — «l NO OO ^ CO ^ oo -p» en r3\ — 4 3 ^ — ~l = =S CO at -P» -p» oo ^ cs r5^ CO cn OO NO OO CO ^ r^ ^ ^ -p». s tT> OO ; o? NO 03 -p>» CO CO CO 6^ cn NO oo ir oo C3 CO 1^ en oo ^ NO OO >c ^ ^ ^ -p» CO art ^ t5\ CO en r5\ ^ CJl cn KO CJl CO NO CT3 ~ eo =^ CO CT5 NO CO NO o5^ NO ^ -p» -p> -p» —J CO —J en — 1 ^ CJI OS NO NO NO — J ^ oo i< = 09 oo NO CO NO en 6?^ ^ -^ ^ -p» en —J ■^1 CO — .1 ^^^ -~i S tji — J ^ cn NO ^^ oo ^ ^\ 05 3^ oo CO NO 0^ NO cn en ^ CT5 -P» oo ~ CO en — 1 S CJI oo NO NO cn NO -P» NO —J *~^ CO i^ =^ ^' is-y CO, NO en en —. -P» ro^ fS\ -P* OS CO ^CJl CO NO NO cn Si? 1^ ¥^ oo NO :^ CO te^ eo NO cn en = S -P» CO CO CD Co -C»"' OS CO CO Cjn <=3 NO ^ CO NO en ^ ^s-^ ^v '^ = CO NO ^ NO oe en ^\ cn g CO ^\, ^ CO -p> ru~ S^ CJI - CO CO — -p» t5< NO en "S; it oo NO ^ ^ CO CO NO 5c I^ CT5 ^ cn NO tn = ^ g ^ OS oo C3D CJI ro 70 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE CORPULENT TYPE. Illustrated on Plate 2. pROPERLY to understand the corpulent type has long been a problem in the trade. The corpulent form has been looked upon as an irregularity in the economy of nature, and any attempt to arrive at a method on which to base calculations has not advanced far beyond the limits of mere approximation. It is understood that the waist sizes have gained a certain amount out of pro- portion to what they ought to have gained, but why they have done so is a ques- tion that has usually been answered with the rather unsatisfactory explanation that "experience has proved it to be so," an explanation that does not explain. Experience points the direction in which we should go, but science guides us on the way. Our aim is to point out the conditions to which we must conform, to point out the laws which experience has compelled us to take notice of, and which, when understood and heeded, do not inflict the penalties that so many have paid. Corpulency is the effect of the law of compensation. What is lacking in relative height, corresponding to the breast size, has been gained in width of waist, shoulders, hips, arm and lower extremities. The height quantities have not altered, but the width quantities have given them a new element to take into con- sideration in dealing with this type. If a man continued to increase in height as he increased in width, there would be no corpulency, simply large and small nor- mal forms ; but as the corpulent type increases in width while the height remains stationary, a relative increase of width develops. As this increase is gradual and develops to different degrees, corpulency is relative, hence must be considered in its relation to the other dimensions of the body. Table 32 covers the range of the height and width quantities most frequently met in actual practice, and the variations, when heights and widths differ, are also explained. As has already been stated, corpulency occurs in different degrees. The table given is so flexible that results can b6 obtained in any degree, according to the ideas different operators may hold to be the most suitable for their business. As a safe average we have employed what we shall call the " triple degree " of corpulency, as will be noted in the explanations that follow : CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 71 Plate 2 72 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. TABLE 32. T^HE following explanations demonstrate the method employed to gain corpu- lent quantities : Line i gives the number of columns each way from the Checking Column. Line 2, the heights in feet and inches. As the corpulent type is often aptly called "short and stout," it suggests, and very correctly, that the heights must not run up into the greater quantities. We have therefore made the 5 foot 10 inch height the maximum, above which point the heights decrease while the widths increase, which constitutes corpulency. Line 3, the heights reduced to inches. Line 4, the half-heights in inches. Line 5, the half-heights in inches progressively, by which the breast sizes, which increase in that manner, are gained. Line 6, one-fourth the heights, which are used to gain sectional measures by. Line 7, the first units and the fractions of the half-heights of Line 5, as explained in Table i. Litte 8 gives the degree of corpulency used in this table. Being three inches, it is called the ''triple degree." This arrangement makes the heights three inches less for their accompanying width quantities than in the tables of averages. For instance, 38 breast was in the 5 foot 8 inch column in the preceding table. Here it has fallen in a height column three inches less, or in the 5 foot 5 inch col- umn, which is the effect desired. A greater or less number may be used to gain a greater or less width quantity for the height dealt with. If two inches, instead of three, were used, it would be called the " double degree " of corpulency, and four inches would be called the "quadruple degree," etc. The triple degree, how- ever, will average for corpulency as well as the quantities in Table 31 will average for proportionate forms. Line 9, the breast sizes gained by adding Lines 5, 7 and 8. Line 8, as has just been explained, gives the increased width quantities above the average. Line 10, the waist sizes of the corpulent form. They are gained as in Table 31 by checking by the 5 feet 8 inch column (the numbers in Line i give the num- ber of columns each way from the Checking Column) and adding twice the degree given in Line 8 for quantities above the Checking Column. Below the Checking Column, deduct the number in Line i from the half-Checking Column height (34) and add as above the Checking Column, twice the degree given in Line 8. Example:— To gain the waist size for a 48 breast, find the number directly above 48 in the top line. It is 7 in this instance. A dd onft-\\a.\{ of this, or 3^, mak- ing 10^ in all. Add this lo^ to the half-height of the Checking Column (34) and you will gain 44A. Now add to this twice the degree of corpulency, the degree being 3, and twice 3 being 6, which when added to the 44^ makes 50^, which rep- resents the number of inches the waist measures for a 48 breast, when the height is as here mven. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. V3 . : r o -J o ^ ■1- O. 1^ - o ^o CO ■M Cs ^ -f- 0. ^ 1 -- r r r y. r r; o T1 ffl CTj .-. a : r ^ X X X X 2: tu ■a -a o -^ p v; p S H Ul p p c o o TO 5- o C si. O -1 o c 3 3- O > D- ■3 !i to' .^ 3- 3" 3- 5' 0,^ 5- =r 3- £, c a. y y re P TO ST rT • ^ 3 ; o" S s? 3 5- ^ ^ ^ 5' > c TO D. -. = " ^ ■^ c n ?r -♦ > > a. 5' G. 5' 3 3" n a. ft P 0' 5' n 3- n 3 5" • D o o 5' c Q. •Ul ■-( "" 5 2 T3 :r ! ~ 3 5' 5" a. r T3 r 7q : ^ C c- S S <' " C -^ ■^ : 5 p ^ 1 3 ' n ~" • ?r r" . 3 ■ cq .^ CO hO NO Co f (IT CO fjj {r> C4J CJl cn cu *a NO CO •^ 0^ o5-Sr ci^ ^J\ oS^ K)"^ oS~\ rt\ ^^ r^C F" . 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CO +>• CJ> ^— . O <-!> -— m CO CT» cz* tNS^ -^ -^ -^ oS5^ oS^ TC5 .pa hO .^ Cj>J CaA NO — _ -^ en en C«J -^ CO CO NO r«o »x: ^^ ^>^ oS-x? (i\ o5^ i Q. 5' 5' c c s. o 3 o > a. a. 5' 3 5' c" a. a. > a. 5' 3 5' c" o. m a. n. n ■a 3- > o. 5' 3 3' c Q. e! > •5 a. a. S' 3 o Orq S 3' p. w O K 5' o. -^ o 3 r 3 4^ P 3 a. On r 3* H 3" 3. G. Crq -^ o rT 3 a. 3 n r Ctq C -( (u 3 5' 3 o r 5' o c 3- 3^ crq' 3; 5' crq' 3' 3' X 3' 3' X crq' 3- 3' pj a. 3' 3" c 3 o_ c g 3 3- 3 3- 01 jr 3' crq o_ c 3 3 KM SD ^ 55 ISO rso ISO zz = ^« ~ = to S^ ^ CO CO CO CJI en -p» -P» IS ^ SO CJI %, R Co\ §: ^ — CAJ - ■=" CO ^ fs -«> PJC SO 65^ E3 5^ I< 4^ 5^ ^ IsJ ;^ CO CO ISO ^ CJI F- CO **■ NO ^_ I^ = :m^ ISO ^ CO OJ ^ CaJ 0^ 03CJ1 10 CJi hO <*<: =^ IS ^ ISO ^ ^ = ■4^ CO nKT s^ Co Sj ="=* "* en ^ !^ so •^-^ ^ ir CO ^ - CJl OO -t^ ^ ■F> s 3-=* = ■p> S; KO NO cn ji*- ISO S?: ^ — ■^ ^ CO 1^ S: s CO en 5^ Sr o? ^ ^ ISO X Co CO CJI S: Co CJI = OC71 KJ tn ISO S^ hs3 ^ CO CO ^ ^ .^ " CO cri ^ ^ ^ p-=s CO S: !:3 ^ ■^^ £:3 h3< ^ CO CO p. >^ ^ CjO o. = S4 ro ? *» rso rs^ ISO ^ ]^ S^ S" ^ ~ s CO ^ CO 3 cn en ><- S- :^ *^ ISO CO Ic ^ S: iv -p> CO -- riKT ^ ^ IS3 oa o» -p» ^ ISO ISO .p> ^ ^ ^ ^ *• CO ^ ^ CO Si = 3; ""^ CJl ^fc:\ ISO ^ oS*! ^- ^ ^"< ^ bo CO CO "= ~ cr. 5-s 00 en ^ ^ ISO i^ 1 isa » ^ ;&«: CO -^ CJ» oa cja 80 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. Example : — t,;^ breast. Deduct the amount of the top line, plus the amount in Line 6, plus the amount in Line 9, from the half of the checking height. The amounts are respectively 2, 3 and i, which together make 5^^, and when deducted from 34 leave 28f as the waist size for a slender 33 breast of 5 feet 6 inches height. In actual practice, when the heights and widths differ from the arrangement given in this table, the waist sizes may be found as follows : If we have a 36 breast for a man 6 feet i inch tall, find the number of columns that the 6 feet i inch height is from the 36 breast column, in this case 4 columns, as at the 40 breast. Count the same number of columns below 36, or to 32 breast. The waist size located half-way between the 36 and 32, as at 34 in this case 29^ inches, is the corresponding waist to a 36 breast and 6 feet i inch height. Again, if we have a 39 breast and a 5 feet 10 inch height, find the number of columns that separate them. As only one column separates them in this case, use the waist size in that column (33^), but add i^ for each inch difference in height above the 5 feet 10 inch height, or f inch below it, or the amount the waist gains for each size breast. As in this case only one column is to be accounted for, add i^ inch to 33^, which gives a 34! inch waist for a 39 breast, 5 feet 10 inches tall as the increase of width and decrease of height partake of the normal. Lme II, the depths of scye for the slender form by heights and widths, as explained in Table 11. Line 12, the blade measures corresponding to the width quantity, as explained in Table 12. Lzne 13, the front shoulders by height and width, as explained in Table 13. Line 14, the over-shoulder measures by heights and widths, as explained in Table 14. Lme 15, the upper-shoulder measures by heights and widths, as explained in Table 25. Line 16, the lower-shoulder measures by widths only, as per Table 26. Lines 17, 18, 19 and 20 are the anatomical divisions corresponding to the heights given, as explained in Table 30. They give the lengths to natural waist, seat, small knee and lower calf, respectively. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 81 THE SLEEVE. T^HE sleeve problem is an iateresting and at the same time an intricate one. The length of the sleeve is, of course, governed by the length of the arm, and the length of the latter bears a relation to the total height of the body. The basis from which we can reason most satisfactorily is the distance from finger tip to finger tip when the arms are raised from the sides of the body to a horizontal position. In other words, if a person stands against a wall and places the tip of the middle finger of the left hand at a certain point, and while still holding that finger as stated places the tip of the middle finger of the right hand as far from the left as he can reach without straining, while both hands are even with the shoulders, the distance thus spanned will average 2 to 3 inches more than the total height. This apparently would give the length of the sleeve, if the length of the hand were deducted, and so it would if the arms were always carried in that position ; but as that is not the case, more length must be gained to correspond to the amount that is lost in angles when the arms are bent. This has been realized in a general way by tailors of all times, and to gain the loss of these angles the sleeve length has always been taken with the elbow bent to describe a right angle. If a tape is passed over the back and the ends held in each hand, while the arms are held straight in front of the person at the height of the shoulder, the tape will not register any increase over the tip-to-tip measurement if it passes under the arms. This is the inside measurement. But if the arms are bent at a right angle and the tape is passed outside of the elbow bend, it will require the letting out of the tape about 6 inches. This is the outside measurement. As the arms assume the bent position in almost everything we do, even in writing, we have the outside measurement to deal with when figuring on the length of the sleeve. Figuring from the height as a basis, we have the tip-to-tip span, which is 3 inches greater than the height, and a provision for angles of 6 inches to add to the height, or 9 inches in all, added to the height as a basis for our sleeve length. This includes the entire length of the hand to the tips of the fingers. The foregoing deals only with the dimensions of the body direct and allow- ances for positions assumed, but does not deal with the losses met with in the process of manufacture, such as for seams and ease. 82 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE NORMAL SLEEVE. TABLE 34. npHIS table exemplifies and gives the results of the above deductions in the fol- lowing manner, as applied to the normal sleeve : Line i, the breast sizes as per Table 31. Line 2, the corresponding heights for average forms in feet and inches. Lijte 3, the same heights reduced to inches. Li?ie 4 has added 3 inches to the total height, which, as explained above, is usually the amount that the height is less than the measurement from finger- tip to finger-tip. Line 5 gives 6 inches additional to the quantities of Line 4, which provide for the outside measurements of angles. Line 6 gives the half-quantities of Line 5. These quantities are the measures from the center of the back to the tip of the finger of the arm measured, and while they include the length of the hand as given we now approach the sleeve length as dealt with in tailoring, as we only prepare our pattern for one side and gain the two sides by cutting the cloth double. Line 7 has deducted from Line 6 the lengths of the hand less i^ inch in this manner. The length from the tip of the finger to the wrist joint is ^ of the total height (or one head), but as a sleeve that only comes to the wrist is too short, as all tailors can testify, more length must be gained, hence this line has i^ inch added after the length to the wrist has been deducted. Example : — 5 feet 8 equals 68 inches. To this add q inches (3 inches for the excess of length of the outstretched arms over the height, and 6 for the outside measurements of the angles), making in all "jj inches. One-half of 77 is 38^. Deduct ^ of the height, as per Line 20 of Table 31, or 8^ inches, from 38^, leaving 30 inches as the length from the center of the back to the wrist. To extend the length from the wrist to the hand, add i^ inch, as explained in this connection and you have the result, 31^ inches, as per Line 7 of this table. Line 8 gives i inch added for seams and makeup to the quantity gained in taking the measure, as per Line 7. This i inch includes all additions for the finished pattern and will correspond to the quantities given in Table 31 = It may be well here to refer to what seems to many an eccentricity of nature which gives to people of the same height varying lengths of arms. The fact is that the length of the arm from the center of the back to the tips of the fingers is, approximately, the same for all people of the same height ; but if a slender man, measuring a certain amount from the back center to the tips, should take on flesh, that same measurement would not diminish, but the back would widen at the expense of the length of the arm from the shoulders down. Therefore the outseam measurement would remain the same, but the forearm measurement would decrease. This is the reason why attempts at laying down corresponding proportions for both the inside and outside sleeve lengths have always been found unsatisfactory. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 83 M 3 CO -M Ch >- J- OJ '■' - r O Q ^ H m ffi W 3 3- Hc^ ? crq_ oq oq £ ^.^ 3- 3 rt W ■o 5^ tn '^^ ^o' o 5" o 5' 3- ;' 3- t" J -o 3 rt ■ 3/ n 3 3- '- 3 : p 7T ■-" s . o. c ■ — ■ lox r? 3 . o • — 3 3- ! 5 3 3 3 ■ 3- CO ^_ CO CTJ CO CT> CJ1 CO CO ISO CO en = s en — oi CO CM s ^<:: CO CJl — 4 en NO ro CJ1 NO CO CD i«o CO ers —J NO 09 09 CO CJ1 CO CO CO CO CO en -«4 S 4=* CJl CO -** S*;; CO CO —J 5! o» en en CJi CJl CO en CO CO CO —J Si CO 0» CJl CO 09 CM CO 5<: CO eo —J 03 —4 — 1 CJl —J CO ,co CO eo -~l — 1 — 1 00 GO CJl CO 00 CO CO CO — 1 eo NO en CO CO CJl CO CO CO CO CO l>>9 CO eo — 1 CO a —J a CJl NO -P> oo —J -p» -Ni := CJl -P:> ^ CO oo —4 NO 03 f^ CO CO CO oo 5: — «1 = CJl S CO CO i«o g s 5; 1 ^ CJl :& CO CO NO CO CO — 1 CO — J CO -»l S CJl -Pa» CO CO CO NO CO —J CO a — «l S CJl CO CO CO NO CO CO —J oo — i NO fN3< CTJ eo CD CJl -1^ CO NO CO Si:' CO CO —J oo —J NO 03 CO CO CJl ^ CO ro i^ CO oo --4 —J — «l en oo gSeji = =s -f^ CO , CO 03 —J — J —J 03 =■ =s s 84 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. SLEEVES FOR CORPULENT FORMS. AS the outseam length of sleeves corresponds to the height, the method as explained in the previous table is also applicable to corpulent forms. TABLE 35 ^IVES lengths corresponding to the quantities in Table 32 as follows: Line i, the breast sizes, as per Table 32. Line 2, the heights corresponding in feet and inches. Line 3, the sleeve lengths as taken without additions for make-up. Line 4, the total lengths for the corpulent form with all additions for seams and make-up. When the degree of corpulency is extreme the decrease in height will give a decreased length of sleeve. SLEEVES FOR SLENDER FORMS. 'THE outside length of the sleeve for a slender form is also relative to the height of the subject, and, therefore, is obtained as explained in the general remarks preceding and in Table 34. The quantities given herewith will corre- spond to those in Table 33. TABLE 36. Line t, the breast sizes as per Table 33. Line 2, the heights corresponding to the above breast sizes for the slender forms. Line 3, the sleeve lengths as taken without additions. Line 4, an addition of i inch for seams and make-up as explained in connec- tion with Table 34. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 85 CO = =3: ^ Cl>* CO 41.CJI ^if b>3 CO CJ1 CJ1 CO KO B3- ^ OdCTi CO CO CO CO —J CJl 5^ CO rS^ Qocn CO CJl CO NO CO CO CJl CO OS CO & OCJ1 S3 CO = CJ1 CO 03 s CO 03 CO CO CO s^ ="^ g CO >^ =■3 -p» CO 6^ CO 06< CxS 0> l>o CO CO .^ 03 e CO CJl o5^ CJl 03 :^ UJ :| r 3' '5- a. 0' 3 1 c a. a t- 5- 7r n 3 X crq' :y 5' w 3 a. 3' NJi CO OJCJi CO CO » 4a CJl — 1 so CO CJl CJl CO 00 CO CO 05 CJl CO 1 CO CO CO —J CJl 3 CO ISO " 03CJ1 ■p> CO hO o5=i CO 5<^ CO CJl e CO CO Scji e CO CO CO CO CJl :& CO INO S^ CO CJl S: CO l>o CO SScji to CO ao CJl —J Ico ^ «M CJl s to ^ 1 CJl -p» i^ ^ £?3cji en CO CO 03 CJl in CO CO CJl CJl S"3 s 86 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. FOREARM LENGTH OF SLEEVES. A S many cutters prefer to use the forearm, or underarm, length of sleeves, there are given herewith lengths and explanations of how to obtain them according to the class or type of forms to which the sleeves apply. Refer back to Plate i, accompanying Table 30, in which is given the ana- tomical sectional divisions of the human body. As will be noticed, the inside length of the arm and hand combined extends over three sections of the body, as from Line 2 to Line 5 in normal forms. We deduct one section, or head, to the wrist, and have two sections remaining, to which we have to add i^ inch, as explained for Table 34. This leaves the forearm length two sections (as per Line 20, Table 31) plus i^ inch for normal forms. NORMAL. TABLE 37. Line I, the normal breast sizes. Line 2, the heights corresponding. Line 3, the forearm lengths for normal forms, which are composed of two sections of lengths of the body plus I5 inch. CORPULENT. IT was made plain in mtroducting the subject of sleeves that in corpulent forms ' the underarm length decreases as the back width increases. The decrease is nearly equal to one-fourth the degree of corpulency, to correspond to the quanti- ties given in Table 32, in which the triple degree of corpulency (or 3 inches) is used. One-fourth would be | inch, which is the amount of the decrease given in the table accompanying. TABLE 38. Line I, the corpulent breast sizes. Line 2, the heights corresponding. Line 3, the forearm lengths of sleeve, which in this case are two sections of length plus i^ inch, less one-fourth the degree of corpulency, or | inch. SLENDER. AN increased forearm length is the natural accompaniment of the slender form, ■ as the decreased widths and increased heights mean a narrower back and a relatively larger underarm length to maintain the total quantity. The increase may be safely made one-fourth the degree of slenderness, or the opposite of cor- pulency. TABLE 39. Line i, the slender breast sizes. Line 2, the corresponding heights. Line 3, the forearm lengths plus i^ inch plus one-fourth of the triple degree of slenderness, or f inch in this case. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 87 ■ 3' H a- a o" n n" a X 5 3 C- 3' o Er a. oo Caj cn ° oo .pk cn *** 03 cn CJ1 CO ISO 03 03CJ1 w CO 1 CJl 5^ to X oocn cu on CO com OS 5S ^J r«o cu 03 ISO a> CO K3 ^ — 03 g ISO hocn -!=• ro CO 03 S ISO 4=" CT> S ISO CJl 03 ^ OJ ,; ni 1-3 m o" 3 S- K crq' cr 5' n 3 a. 5' re ■ a 03 ClJCJI 03 .P.C71 CO —J —J CJl CJl CO eo ^ ^ cncji CO CO 5. — ICJl 4:» OOCJI ^ ^ eo CJl s OS 5cji .^ 5° =S :& eo CO CJl -i=> 01- *^ ^ OOCJt :£; «ri CJl = =5 oo ^ -*J CJl S uii CJl CJl ai CJl cn cJiu, ISO : ,; 3 H D- ©■ P 3 n" 3 X m p 3 CL re CJl =X CO OS — CJl CO —J P"r» CO ISO COCJI CO CO .^CJl CO CJl CJl S' =3: CO en OS 03 CJl at OS. -sJCJl CO —J ^ oo CJl CO oo OO COCJI CO CO CO OCJl g- CO ^CJl ^ CO 3 NO CO == cn s CO ^ CJi =■ =1 ^ co OCJl s; tS OCJl at ^ ^CJi £3 ^ CO cn S eo ji5cn g £ c» cn C3 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. VESTS, Lengths and Openings. Zl SATISFACTORY vest length and opening based on something tangible will prove a welcome innovation to cutters and designers, whether for use in retail practice in gaining a certain length when an uncertain measure is given, or for a working principle when a set of vest patterns is to be produced. Arbitrary lengths, even when fairly satisfactory, do not mean anything, and always leave an element of doubt as to whether all requirements have been fully met. Neither height nor width alone will give a length flexible enough for different sizes of men of varying heights. As vest lengths partake of both, one element must modify the other. The rule here given is as simple as it is scientific and is best expressed in the following couplet : One-fourth the height and one-fourth of the breast. When added together, give the length of the vest. The length gained in this manner includes all additions for seams and mak- ing up ; but should the customers of a certain trade be educated by past practice to a longer or a shorter vest, a small arbitrary quantity may either be added to or deducted from the result obtained as explained. NORMAL. TABLE 40. Line i, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the same heights in inches. Line 3, one-fourth the above heights in inches. Line 4, the breast sizes for normal forms. Line 5, one-fourth the breast sizes. Line 6, the results of adding Lines 3 and 5, which are the full lengths of vests corresponding to the heights and widths given. Line 7, the openings, which are one-half of the lengths given in Line 6 less i inch. This amount may be more or less to gain the opening desired, as fashions change from season to season. When the waist increases it requires an additional length to go over the rounded surface of such forms. This increase will take care of itself if the length.s, as here given, are applied on a direct line, as in the normal. The waist increase extending beyond the direct line will give a curving line to the front, which, together with the continuation of the bottom slant in front of the direct line, will give the additional quantity needed. The foregoing will meet all ordinary requirements, even when the waist size enters in as an element of length ; but those who prefer to employ the waist ele- ment as a factor in determining vest lengths can, instead of one-fourth breast, use one-eighth breast and for the quantity lost substitute one-eighth waist. This will CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 89 1 f • s - - - 3 ^ o\ Kr\ ■f- <-^_ w - H *Tl o W O X X =r 3 — p ? Kl jq 3 3 o c 2. c 3" =r 3- 3- ft 3- 3 (Kl - cr . 3" 3 J?" O cr n crq 3- !2 C/l r C/l yi CL 3 a 3 3* I^ ■ 3 rr ?) 3- =^ : 01 :C- 1 • f/j ^ -&< r5\ ro\ ^— i«o Ca9 ~~ o» ^ CJl ri< ^ -»^ - ■ ^— KO _ r*oc7i -fe^ r^C l»a .^J\ KO =■=* ^— ■^ — ■ CO C71 .p> -^ Ols J^*i: = =* — . ro — at -P> 4i^ r^ rS-. F" L *■ ^— Ka- oo -^ en CJiCJi ivi<: ^ e»« :^ CJI ^~ K9 CO CU ^^ o> saw -s^ r^ rvj^ ^-» KO ~mm. ■ >^ ->a ^ —J = =* — ~ CM — as CJ1 1^ ;^ OS F=* » ~~ —J CO ri<: =• =* ^— . K9 .^ ^^ CO ■*^ — < >*- ?" =* ^— r>o — . .^ _ ->l BO ■^ K3<: r^ • CO s s s; ■^■4 -»J ■= CJ1 ^^ oB^ -^ is*} ■^ cu ^ ~ ■^ ^ —J ^ CJ1 *^ :M- ^ bo ^ z^ ^ ^ -J ^CJi ^^ ds?:? ■^ ^ ^i^ = = bs CO ~ s; -J — ^ OCJ1 rS^ K5^ ;^ 3 ZS ^_ l>>3 mm^ «^ ■!>t ^^ isc ^ ^^ 3 =3^ ^-* so — ^ ^— s5 <^ ■^ ^ c3 NO «o hO S ^ OO m2c*» 5^ 66^ -^ (if< ru^ "* r* — — ^— ^n aocn CO 30 -^ ^K• r^ 90 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. give a slight decrease in the sizes where the waist is less than the breast and a corresponding increase when the waist is larger than the breast. The flexibility gained, however, is hardly in proportion to the increased labor it involves in figuring vest lengths. CORPULENT. TABLE 41. T^HE quantities in this table correspond to those given in Table 32, which are for the corpulent sizes. The method of gaining the results is the same as explained in the previous table. Line i, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the heights in inches. Line 3, one-fourth of tlie heights. Line 4, the breast sizes corresponding to the above heights for the degree of corpulency given in Table 32. Line 5, one-fourth of the breast sizes. Li7ie 6, the full lengths gained by adding one-fourth height in Line 3 to one- fourth of breast in Line 5, and gives the full lengths with additions included. Line 7, the openings corresponding to the lengths, which are one-half the lengths less i inch, and may be made more or less. SLENDER. TABLE 42. TTHE heights and widths in this table are the same as those given in Table 2,1 for the slender forms. They are gained as explained in Table 40. Li7ie I, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the heights in inches. Line 3, one-fourth of the heights. Line 4, the breast sizes corresponding to the above heights for the slender forms. Line 5, one-fourth the breast sizes. Line 6, the full lengths gained from one-fourth of the height in Line 3 and one-fourth of the breast sizes in Line 5. Line 7, the openings corresponding to the above lengths, which are gained from one-half the lengths less i inch, but can be made more or less to suit con- ditions. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 91 ^ -^ CM en era oj» en IV3 CM ^ CT» j:»cn S^ ^_ 03 fO CT5 at CJl CJl en S^ CO ti O^CJl ^ 5^ ^ 23 ^Jcyi i^ CO CJl —J CTJ oo oo C71 CO CT5 —J CO CO CJI ISO CO CM 1 —J 1 S CXI i>o —J CO 03 — «l — 1 = CJ1 —J CO CO OS —J i«o =a CM 5^ OS = ^ — 1 CM S-" CM ho C3 -p» 1^?^ —J r*o 03 56-^ -p» ^ — -1 en .t>03 ^ =^ :& -^ —> —J CJl 03 ^ 0\ ■' ■f^ : ,: 5' H 3- O 13 3^ 5" Crq c 3 3- 3 r 5' 1^ 3 a. o 3 C a- o 3 n o" c 5- 3- re 3- 5' 3' 3- as f 5' 5' 3- m 3- 5' S- 3 Q. 5' o 3- n ^ CO CM >^ CTJ CO CJl oo*r ISO CJl CO CM 1 CTJ CTJ -P> *.eji ^ ro en CO ~ CTJ C71 CJl CJl NO CO CM CO CTJ CTJ 09 oseji S3 NO CTJ = -P" CTJ CTJ —J — 1 CJl 1:3 s -^ ^ —J CTJ OS GO, CJl KO —J =. NO —J 4^ CTJ CO CO CJll ic NO ^^ e — 1 ^ ^CJi 1?. NO 03 86^ = :& ^ CO JO CJl ^ NO ^ -f^ CTJ CO CO CJl CM NO ^ ^ 5s^ eo UmCJI S- NO i*f -p» —J —J oo OS CJl CM NO OO NO ^ CTJ 6S^ 23_ Uiicji CM NO CO nS -p* CO CTJ CTJ ->1 CJl CO NO CO ^ ^ en CTJ CTJ ^CJl CM Eg ^ >*<■ CJl OJ 1^ CTJ C^CJl Cm NO CO CM CTJ CTJ en CJJcji 92 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. TROUSERS. General Remarks. OERHAPS the most difficult part of the human body, considered from the standpoint of proportions, is that part with which the tailor has to deal in making trousers ; at least, rules given in the past, intended as guides, have never corresponded to the surface development of that part. Nature has in all cases, excepting those caused by accident or deformity, framed certain laws. She has classified these cases into types, but those who have attempted to codify her laws have disregarded her classifications. While exceptions to these laws exist, they do not prove that the laws of nature are invalidated ; in fact, one simple rule which proves effective in determin- ing leg lengths is known to almost every purchaser of ready-made clothing; namely, holding the legs of the trousers out at arm's length. While we do not wish to dwell on this particular phase, it is referred to as a suggestion of the relation between the arm and leg lengths, which is recognized by laymen. It might be stated that the method could be used to advantage if it were applied scientifically. The truth it implies is that relative proportions are a fact, and that the laws governing them are well defined. Results gained by observing them are pretty near correct. Trouble results only when we make arbitrary rules contrary to the needs of the conditions existing. The average man is one type, and the rules governing the leg lengths of this type do not apply directly to the corpulent, nor to the slender types, which are governed by rules applicable only to those tjoes. But let us get down to actual measurements, behind which no rules can go. Out of a group of 200 normal men an average height of 68^*^^ inches was found, for which height an average leg length of 32^^^ inches resulted, or a double leg length of 64-^ inches. Out of a group of corpulent forms, with a waist measurement ranging from 3 inches up to 7 inches larger than proportionate, the heights averaged 68|^ inches and the double leg length 6o| inches. A similar number of slender men with waist sizes less than normal averaged 68^^^ inches height and 66^^ inches double leg length. This goes to prove that the average normal double leg length is approximately 4 inches less than the height, while in the corpulent it is 8 inches less and in the slender forms 2 inches less, increased or decreased by the degree of corpulency or slenderness existing. This again suggests that the bone structure does not change as the form evolves from one type into another, and that the difference in types is really only a matter of increased width quantities. As width is gained, or, in other words, fiesh taken on, the increase of width is made at the expense of the leg length, which is made up in the increase of the waist rise. Therefore, in the strictly normal type, the leg length and waist rise partake only of the height quantity ; but just as soon as width is gained, width will have to be taken into consideration. Learn to swim instead of devoting all your energy to find a suitable life preserver . . . . . 94 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. AVERAGE TROUSERS DIMENSIONS. TABLE 43. 'X'HIS table contains average (not normal) trousers dimensions. The strictly normal form is best expressed by the quantities in the Checking Column. Line I, the checking numbers each way from Column 0. Line 2, the height of averages in feet and inches, as per Table 31. Line 3, the above heights in inches. Line 4, the half-heights. Line 5, the breast sizes as a guide to the amount of corpulency dealt with. Liite 6, the average Avaist sizes, as per Table 31. All the above quantities are the same as given in Table 3. Line 7 has the seat sizes, which are gained in the following manner: For the Checking Column, 0, make the seat i inch larger than the breast size, or 39 inches. Above the Checking Column, add the number in the top line to 39, and place the result in the same column as the number in the top line is located. As the seat is found to gain in the excessively large sizes, \\ inch instead of I inch has been added to each column above the 6 feet height, while below it all are held at even inches. Line 8 is ^ inch for each column above the Checking Column. It also represents \ inch for each inch the waist has gained upon the breast, above the normal difference found in Column 0. The quantities given below the Checking Column are \ inch for each column. Above the Checking Column they represent \ inch for each inch the waist has gained upon the breast above the normal difference found in Column 0. Line 9, inseam lengths on the basis of 2 inches less than the half-height ; that is, the double leg-length is 4 inches less than the total height, as explained in the general remarks. Line 10, the leg-lengths for the sizes in which the increased width quantities have decreased the , length quantities, as referred to in. the general remarks. The amount of decreased length is gained by deducting the quantity in Line 8. Line II gives the waist rises by adding 2 inches (or the amount the normal leg-length is less than the half-height) to one section, or ^ of the total height cor- responding (as per Line 30 in Table 31). To this \ height plus 2 inches, add \ inch for each inch the waist has gained on the breast from the normal quantity, as per the quantities above the Checking Column of Line 8. Below the Check- ing Column, find the \ total height plus 2 inches as above, but instead of adding, as above, deduct from the quantities gained the ^ inch for each number in the top line. This gives the side rise as shown in this line. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 95 ; - : = t -. = : ■' = 1 -- 5' -t- w ij " o VO CO ^j - ^ +- - " -' a p n o 3 3 D. in »" W X X > o 3- m re n ~3 f^' '~^ a. w v 5" p 3-^ ^ o w c_ o n' w clq " 3" o ST -1 o ?r 7 i. 3' 3 O O ■3 a " O tn 3- 5' 3' 3- ■ Crq' ■ 3- £.3 c c 3 3 3 s' 3 -3 > 5' ^ 3 a- 0-5 P 5- g 3 1 — • S y' • 3 . 3 ; 3- • ^ • ■ • o • • a. — — 03 ~^ t~^ CO CO .-^ Tr'» NO CO CO 09 &^ .S^^ ■* $^ rS\ ?" ~ _— ro Tr* Ca3 CjO OJ cji •P» CO ^^ ^C •' -^ r5\ c»\ -^ in3\ ^ - ■ — _ ao Caj bo fr 6^ ■^ •" ro-\ ■*■ ^ - ' ^. ^— . frr CO Vi-if CO frT ^n CJl cji NO CJl o^ ■^. -* ^^ ■* r5\ oS\ -^ K3\ F* . ■ .^ — - __ f nT CO CO CO ct:> —J NO CO (^ -M^ -^ ~ — _ Caj CO Ca3 —J CJl _ CO ifi? •^\ -&>C - Ks< <»x -^ K}<: ^ "" 1 _ ^~ CO CO CO Co Grs> CO NO CO .f:a* 03 . ■pk ^ ■^ 1^ ^ ~ — — — CO CO CO Co CO CJl _ . c= ■Pk CO c^ -&^ oS^ ^K Kf<; rS^ rO\ ^ =~ — i«o ^— CO -p^ CO -p> C^7 ^ — ^^ C3 CJ1 ■^ :^ -K\ "* ■^ = =» _^ — •^ f_J* -p> CO 4:* ^pf o&4^ •^ oov' 4.\ "* <^ i &^ :+^ t^ ^ N^ — 1 hO NO — CO re -P^ £^ CO CJl — i = CJl en ^^ <^ S^ j?^ ■s^^ »<:? -^< r5<; -^ fi^ = ~ -K- -^ hO — > _ CO .p> ■1^ :& CO — 1 en (&< S&^ <&*? S5^ NO >4? CO :^ Ks CO en CO en ^~ NO ^ ¥^ c^^ NO Oo\ CO ivJ^ -J -p» iSf< =-=s *x « NO — . .. CO .^ crt ■p> 4^ CO at CO CJl ^— NO NO CO 5^ oS^ 6S\ <^ -f^ -f^^ i^4^ rS< ■p^ r^<: =^ r* -^ —- NO -^ rr> , en OO CJl _ fiSv -p> 09 •Pb -^ T^ n 3- 5' ■X. ft a- c c- o 5' o 3- n o -6 c_ 3 3- crq' 3- 5' n crq 3 c 3 cr d g o_ c" 3 3 p —J os4e CO OB^ :^ —a &o <3^ C*J CJi en ^&\ -M? IV3 CO 6&^ CO 00\ Ch3 OO ^ ^ NO -P» .^ CJl ^ik CTJ >4? OD ss -p» CO — 1 —J CJ1 C*J ^ CO i>o ^ NO -p» CO s OS CJ1 ° ^ ^ C«J d&i? CO NO s e s OS CO CO en S?" Iv3 CM C*J ^ CO 0^ S -p> CO en ->l O C71 NO ^ r^ ^ CO NO :^ CXI en :& CO CT» CO f^o NO ^ -P> S -p> CT» CO -p> OO OS —J d3<^ ^ CO NO (*^ -1^ CO -P» 4^ —J CO 4^ oa C30 cn — J ^ ^ ^ C3 S ^ CO ^ en - OO ^ a? £S OO 03 06< CO CO ^ i^ en NO -p> CO CO bo —4 —J CJl CO a 6so Iv3 OO CO NO 6B^ en en en en bo en en 03 cj, NO ^ ^ c^^ KO 03 £. NO en en — 1 NO NO OS en CJl CJl ^ L.«fa 100 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. SLENDER TROUSERS DIMENSIONS. T^HE safeguard to which we invariably fall back is formed of the actual measure- ments of living people. These, when divided into their respective classes or types, give a tangible foundation to figure from. As briefly referred to at the beginning of the remarks on trousers, the measures of slender forms have given us an average of 66-j4jj- inches double leg length, as against a total height of 68y^y inches, or approximately a difference of 2 inches, or an inseam length of each leg of I inch less than the half-height. (Increase of leg-length in slender forms is shown on Plate 3.) This is used as a basis, and the increasing waist, which is a small quantity in this class, modifies the length and waist rise on the same principle as before. TABLE 45. Line i, the checking numbers each way from Column 0. Line 2, the slender heights in feet and inches, as per Table 33. Line 3, the heights in inches. Line 4, the half-heights in inches. Line 5, the breast sizes corresponding to the slender heights. Line 6, the waist sizes for slender forms, as per Table t,!,. Line 7, the seat sizes by adding the quantity in the top line to the seat sizes in the Checking Column, for all sizes above the Checking Column, and deducting it from the same seat size for all sizes below the Checking Column. Line 8 gives \ inch for each inch the waist has gained above the normal, as per Column 0. Line 9, the average inseam lengths for slender forms, which are i inch less than the half-height. Line 10, the average waist rises for slender forms, which are gained in the same manner as explained for Line 11 of Table 43, except that only i inch, instead of 2 inches, is added to the \ height. The other inch has been taken up by the leg-length, which is in slender forms that amount longer than in normal. Line 11, the inseam lengths modified by the increases in the waist. They are gained by deducting the index figures in Line 8 from the average inseam lengths in Line 9. Line 12, the waist rises as emphasized by the increased waist. They are gained by adding the index figures in Line 8 to the waist rises in Line 10. Line 13, the basis for knee sizes, slender forms, gained from one-fourth height and one-fourth seat, less 7 inches. The latter quantity may be more or less. Litte 14, the basis for the bottom widths is one-half of the knee width plus 7 inches, more or less. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 101 ^ C> 10 = o v:i ao : CN . +- r 5' o' Cl cr o o ci 3" o" ~l 3 n 7r 3 n 01 ft 3 3- D. o- '^ 5' 3 3 3 crq 3- 3 o D. 5i C- 3' p re > a 3 c -1 s. 2^ > p "S n 3 Q- 5' P 3 3 W S- 3 Q. P O -t o 3 P ■o E. en B. W X p_ 3- ctq' 3- 5' 3- X m 3- 5' B' 3- : CO £. 3- crq' 3' P 3 D. 5' 3- n n TT crq c a" p 3- p 3 c 3 3 en (i^:; bo OS S^ bo ^ €a3 fei:. S5 Cib» Ci3 cn sri CJ1 CO — CO " hO !i3 C*J S ^ CJ1 -P> ^ — 1 CO cu CO bO fee bo s bO NO NO fee 03 CJi CJl ="=t " 6i^ CO CU ISO CO KO 5pi NO OS bo bo CO 03 03 CJl NO CO NO fee ^ fe^ - in NO CO fe^ *i bo 3 ' "^ 66^ 09 CO rvJC CjO CjU CO u> 3» JO en ^ 03 oo 00 CJl C= 05 CO CO KsC CO CIO t3<: bo — «l CiO 39 CO CO C71 " 1 o6^ ^ cu CO ^ ^ bo CO — 1 " -«l 5 CJl NO 1 ^ .5^ = ^ 65-if CO ^ bo CO bo bo 33 Ln fee —J ^ CJl tM — 1 ^ Ca> ^ ■jy 5r\ ^ bo ss bo —4 NO 03 3 -P» —J ^ cu ^ JO fee :k ■*^ bo 4^:> K^ 1 — 09 = =3; eji — 1 "^ bo ^ bo at 4^ so bo -J -P^ bo — 1 5; NJ 03 = 3: 09 NO ^ 3^ o5^ ^ 3> fex ^ s SO NO S3 fee U1 CO 03 —J ^ i>o ^ 3^ ^ CO —J ^ Pk 30 —4 03 *»C33 = 3: so o^^l s< bo ^ bo —J .^ g; «:> ^ ^ 1 —J CJl 03 CO 102 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. BREECHES DIMENSIONS. T^HE foundation principles of breeches must be the same as those of trousers, as breeches cover, at least partly, the same parts as do the trousers. The length quantities are, therefore, easily gained from the lengths of trousers. The width quantities, being subject to many varying conditions, do not lend them- selves so readily to the dictates of rules, as do the lengths, yet results that will be approximate enough to serve as excellent guides can be gained in the manner about to be explained. TABLE 46. Line I, the heights in feet and Inches. Line 2, the average waist sizes. Li7ie 3, average seat sizes. Line 4, average waist side-rise, to which more front-rise may be added, when corpulency demands it, as was explained for Line 12 of Tables 43 and 44. Line 5, the full length inseams for average trousers. Line 6, the lengths to the knee for breeches, which being one-half of the inseam lengths, provide for an addition of about 2 inches above the lengths as taken. This addition may be more or less, but as i inch is usually lost in knee fullness, only i inch remains to give the blousing effect. Li7ie 7, the lengths to the small knee, gained by adding ■2\ inches to the knee lengths. Line 8, the lengths to the calf, ]r of the half-inseam plus i inch. Line 9, the lengths to the lower calf, which from the calf are the continua- tions, one-third of the half-inseam will give a satisfactory average. The next four lines hold the width quantities. These have been given as taken and additions for seams are to be made. The reason we have varied from the rule of including all additions is that these proportions will often be used for coachmen's stockinette breeches, to which no additions are made, owing to the elasticity of the material. Line 10, the bent-knee sizes, which are composed of -^^ height and .| seat plus \ inch. This does not include additions for seams. The stationary quantity {\ inch) can be made more or less, to suit local conditions. Li7ie II, the small knee, which is gained from -J-g- height plus -/^ scat plus 2 inches. The latter quantity may be increased or decreased to suit. Additions for seams to be made. Line 12, the calf: -j-L height and \ seat plus \ inch, but may be more or less. Additions for seams to be made. Line 13, the lower calf : -^^ height and ^- seat less i inch, but may be more or less. Additions for seams to be made. The widths in this table are intended to be "on the safe side" by being ample. As muscularly developed people require greater width quantities than do those of slender build, the elements of which the widths are composed have been selected with a view to meeting the condition encountered ; yet the quantities given may be modified to meet different ideas of what they should be, as has been suggested. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 103 Widths Lengths 1 ui - « ^ : ^ Ov -n ^ w ,J r< t-' o < n n 3 3 o" H o 'B- H o g 3 H o 5- 3 3 3 : > > > : X ctq' 3 C- 3- to C»~^ €j^ ^ ^ ea tu rso OS cn CO i^ NO ^ ^ -^-'' NO CO ISO rso — CJ1 IS3 CT> CO .5^ w ?3 CO ho >o ^ ISO CO Cjl^ rsO CO as5c ^ ^ ro CTI rso 1^ ^ CO 4^ CO CO 4^ K3 y ^ S? = CO ss CO ^tn ^c ^ ^3 ^ ^r^ ^ en ^ CO CO I^ ^ CO ZS OO oi ^ = CO CO isa ^ ^ r«^ CJn —J rv3 -fe\ l*f bO ^ 03 CO CO en t3 NO hO 03 CT» ISO Kiv CO -p» = =* = en CO CT> ISO —si ISO ISO ^ on OO ISO 5- -p» CO en CO CJ1 ^ hO tsO CO OS fee CM — ^ its CDCTI i^r^ %e i>o tsO CO o» CO i^ ;g KS\ osiT 03 -^ i>o CO ISO CO ^ CO -p" ^ s ■Pk - '=» 104 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. READY REFERENCE TABLES. IN the next few tables are quantities for ready reference. No claim to infalli- bility is made for them. As they cover the entire range of types, they overlap, as it were, and therefore only approximate correctness. In cases where direct quantities determine the final result, the quantities gained are accurate. WAIST SIZES FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. TABLE 47. T^HIS table is the essence of the waist sizes, boiled down for ready reference from the tables of all types treated. The result, under the circumstances, cannot be expected to do any more than approximate the quantity desired to be found; but as it will do this and not require any figuring, it will commend itself to many as a time-saver. The top line gives the heights. The column to the right gives the bj'east sizes. The figure directly under the height is the waist size corresponding to the breast size in the same horizontal lijie. The waist sizes are modified or emphasized in a relative degree to the height and width quantities of which they partake. Example:— The waist for a 42 breast of 5 feet 5 inches in height is found in the same line as the breast, directly under the height dealt with, and is 42A inches in this case. Again : — A 42 breast of 6 feet in height gives 39^ inches. The gain in height has caused a loss in width. Approximate waist sizes for any height and width can be gained in the same way. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 105 TABLE -47. 5(1, 5(t. 1 In. 5 ft. 2 in. 5 ft, 3 In. 5 ft. 4 In, 5 ft. Sin, 5 ft. Bin. 5fi, Tin, 5 ft. Sin. 5 ft, gin. 5 ft, 10 in. 5 ft. 11 In, Bft. eft, lln. 6 ft, 2 in. 6 ft, 3 in. Bft, 4 In, Bit. 5 in. 6 ft. Bin, 6tt, Tin, Bft, Bin. SIZES 59 58^8 57X 56^^ 55^ 54%8 53% 52% 52 5|/^ 51 50% 50 49% 49 48% 48 474 47 464 46 50 57 5BX 55^ 544 54 53% 52% 51% 51 504 49% 49% 48% 48% 474 474 464 464 45% 454 44% 49 lh% 55 54;^ 54 53% 52 51% 50^ 49% 49 48;^ 48 47% 47 46^ 46 45'^ 45 444 44 43'^ 48 11% 53^ 52^ 524 51% 51% 50% 49^ 49% 48% 47% 46% 464 45% 45% 44% 444 43^ 434 424 424 47 52 51^ 51 50y^ 50 49^^ 48% 48 m'/z 464 46 45;^ 45 44!^ 44 43% 43 424 42 4l4 414 46 50X 49^4 494 48% 48^ 47% 47% 46% 464 45% 45% 44;^ 43% 43% 42% 424 4l4 414 41 40% 404 45 ^^y^ 48 47;^ 47 46^ 46 45% 45 44% 44 43^ 43 42'^ 42 41% 41 40^ 404 40 394 394 44 46^4 46^4 45% 45% 44% 44% 43% 43% 42% 42% 41% 4l4 40% 40% 40 39% 394 394 39 38% 38'^ 43 45 44;^ 44 43^ 43 42/^ 42 41^ 41 40% 40% 40 39% 39 38^ 384 38 37% 374 37% 37 42 M% 42^4 42X 41% 41/4 40% 404 39% 394 39 38% 38)^ 37^ 374 37 36% 364 364 36 35% 35% 41 41^ 41 40^ 40 39^2 39 38% 38 37^ 37% 36% 36% 36- 35% 35!^ 35% 35 34% 34/2 34% 40 39^4 39X 38^4 38% 37% 37% 36% 364 35% 35% 35 34% la 344 34 33% 334 33% 33 39 38 37'4 37 36/2 36 35^ 35 l^l 34 33% 33% 334 33 3?% 324 32% 32 31% 38 36^4 36^ 35% 35% 34'^ 34% 33% 33% 33 32% 32% 32% 32 31% 3l/a 3l4 31 30% 37 35^ 35 34;^ 34 33'^ 33 32/£ 32% 32 31% l\% 3i4 31 30% 30% 304 30 36 34X 33^4 33X 32% 32% l\% 31% 31% 31 30% 30% 30 4 30 294 29;^ 294 29 35 33 32 '^ 32 31^2 31 30% 30% 30% 30 29% 29X 29% 29 284 28;^ 28% 28 34 1\'/a 31/4 30% 30% 30 29% 29^2 29% 29 28% 28% 284 28 27% 27^ 27% 33 30)^ 30 29!^ 29% 29 3/ 28 i 20/2 28% 28 27% 27% 27% 27 26% 264 26% 32 29X 28^4 n'/i 28% 28 27% 27% 27% 27 26^4 26% 26% 26 25% 254. 25% 31 |28_ 27^ ll'/z 27% 27 26% 26/2 26% 26 25% 25% 25% 25 24% 24^ 24% 30 106 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. SCYE DEPTH, FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. TABLE 48. 'T'HIS table gives the direct quantities that make up the scye depth when the shoulder formation is normal. For cases of square or sloping shoulders, see the chapter on "Types of Forms'^'' to follow. The top line gives the heights. The column to the right gives the breast sizes. The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt with is the scye depth corresponding, with all additions included. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 107 TABLE 48. 5 ft. 5 ft. lin. 5 It. 5(t. 3 In. 5 It. 4in4 5 It, 5 in. 5 It. 6|n. 5(t. Tin. 5 It. 8 In, Sft. 9 In. 5 It, 10 in, 511. II In. 6 It, 6 It. 1 In. Bit, 2 in. Bit. 3 In. Bit. 4 In. fill, 5 In. Git, 6 In. Bit. Tin. Bit. Sin, BREA5T 5IZES 10^ lol' 10^ 10% l( \\i llX ll^a iiX 11% 11^ 11% 11;^ 11% 11% 11% 11^ Ill 11% Ill 12 50 10^ 10% 10^ 10% 10^ \^i II llYe 11)^ ll^e llX 11^ lOi 11% 11^ 11^ 11% 11% 11% 111 11% 49 10^ 10^^ lOl lOlli loX lol 10^ 10^ 11 llA^ ll¥ 11% \\K 11^ 11^ 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 48 10^8^ 10% 10^ idr. \z% 10^ 10^ 10^. 10^ \C II llX wV, 11^ 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 47 loX 10^6 10^ 10^6 io5^ 10^ 10^ \\^X 10^ 10^6 10^ 10!^ 11 1146 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 46 IO)s' 10^ lOX \^l lol lOi 10/2 lOl 10'^ lO^Te 10^ lol^ 10/8 10.^ 11 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 45 10 10.1^ 10)^ \^1 loX 10^6 10^ 10/^6 10;^ 10^6 10^^ 10:1. 10.^ 10% 10^ 10;^ 11 11% 11/8 11% 11% 44 9^ 9^ 10 loX 10;^ 10^6 loX 10^ lOi 10^ 10)^ lOl lOl io;j^ 10% 10:^ 10% 10% 11 11%. 11% 43 gX ^l 9^ 9% 10 lOYe 10;^ 10^4^ lOX 10^ 10^ 10 ^e 10)^ 10% lOl lor. \\i% lO'l io78 10^ 11 42 9% 91. 9% 9% 9^ 9 'Is 10 lOlb lO^^ 10^^ loX lOl 10^ 10^6 10;^ lor. 10^ 10^. 10% 10% 10% 41 9;^ 9% 9^ 9^. 9% 9^ ^y. 9!l 10 lO^e inYs \^% 10^ lol 10^^ 10^6 10^ 10% 10% 10% 10% 40 9^^ 9% 9/a 9^6 9^^ 9;;^ %% 9'^ ^% 9^ 10 10^6 10)^ 10% loX 10/1 10^8 \a 10)^ 10^ 10% 39 9^ 9% 9^ 9'^ 9/a 9^6 9/^a gJTe i% 9!l 9^ ^% 10 loi. 10^8 10% 10^4 10% 10^ 10% lO/a 38 9)^ 9% 9X 9% 9^ ^7. 9/e 9% 9% 9I 9X 9% 9^8 9% 10 loYe \i% 10^ loX 10^ 10^ 37 9 9^6 9/a 9^ 9/4 a 9^ 9^6 9/a 9^6 9^ il 9^4 ^% ^% 9% 10 lor. 10^8 10^4^ 10 X 36 ^t fi'le 9 9^6 9/8 9^6 9/4 9X 9% 9% 9X a 9% 9% 9%. ?% 9% 9% 10 10% lo;^ 35 1% 13/ 84 8^8 8^. 9 9^6 9/8 9^6 9/4 9^6 9^ 9% 9;^ 9% 9% 9% 9% 9% 9^8 9;% 10 34 %% BlTa 1% 8% 1% 8!^ 9 9/4 9/8 9% 9X ^% 9'^ 9% i% 9% 9^8 9% 9^ 9% 9^ 33 it 8}^; 1% 8"/s sX 8% 8^8 8% 9 9Ye i% a 9X 9^3 i% 978 97a 9% 9'% 9% 9% 32 a 8^6 bX a 8^ a^e 8X 8% 8^/8 8l 9 9^6 9/a 9%6 9% 9% 9% 9^% 9/a 9% 9% 31 a 8^6 8^8 ii 8/a 8% 1% 8'^ 1% 8^6 Sj^s 8% 9 9^6 9/8 9% 91% 9/8 9% 9% 9% joj 108 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE BLADE. IZES ARE NOT GIVEN IN THIS CONNECTION, AS THEY PARTAKE OF WIDTH ONLY. THE FRONT SHOULDER MEASURE FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. TABLE 49. 'X'HIS table is subject to the same rules as the scye quantities and the same deviations should be observed. As the quantities run into fractions of twenty-fourths, they are apparently complicated, but as every third column makes a gain of ^ inch, these columns, con- taining the fractions encountered in ordinary practice, are separated by lines in order easily to distinguish them from the rest. The column to the right of any of the separated columns shows a difference of a little more than -Jg inch, and the column to the left of any of the separated columns a little less than J^ inch, than the quantities in the separated columns themselves. With this explanation the table can be easily handled. TAe top line gives the heights. The cobimn to the right gives the breast sizes. The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt with is the front shoulder measure corresponding, with all additions included. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 109 TABLE 49. 5tt. 5 ft. lln. 5(t. 2 In. 5 It. 3 in. 5 It. 4 in. 5 ft. 5 In; 5 ft. 6 in. 5 ft. Tin. 5 ft, 8 In. sffn 9 in. ID In. II In. fill, Gfi. lln. Off, 2 in. 6 ft. 3 in. 6 It. 4 in. 6 ft. 5 in. 6 ft- 6 in. 6 ft, Tin, 6 ft, 8 In. BREAST SIZES 16 16^^. IB^. 16^8 \^% IG/4 a I6/4 16^ \^k 16'% 16% IB^ 16% 16% \i% 16% IB'/4 16^ 16% 16% 50 \l% 15 '1 15% 5^ \bZ 15'ii 6 I6/4 IB% 16^8 16% 16% I6X 16% 16% \d 16% 16% 16/a 16% 16% 49 15^ 1'/ 15/. 15'^ 15% 16/ 154 I5I; 1% 15% \iX 15^4 15% 15% 16 16% 16(24 le/s 16% 16% IBX 16% 16/4 48 \ii 15/, i5r. 15;^ 10/ 15/4 15/4 \^l 15% 15% \l% 16/ 15% 15^4 15% 15% 15^ 15% 15% 16 16% let: 47 15 15^4 15/. 15;^ 15^4 15^/4 5X 15^ 15% \l\ 15% 15^4 15/^2 15% 15% 15^ 15% i5'i: 15/4 15% 15% 46 W% i4'i: I4^i; 14^ 14^4 i4i; 15 \ll 15% \\l 15% 5% 15/4 15% 15% 15^ 15% 15% 15;^ 15% 15% 45 \^l 142: I4'i: 14^ I4'i; 14/4 k\ 14% 14% \0, 14% 4% 15 15% 15% 15/8 15% 15% 15^ 15% 151. 44 14^ 14^. l4'/4 14;^ 14'/. 14% \^\ 14% 14% \^l 14% 14% 14^ 14^4 14% 14/8 14% 14% 15 15/4 i5i; 43 (4 14/. 14^^ 14/8 14 14 14^/4 4X 14/^ 14% \a 14% 14% 14;^ 14% 14% 14;^ 14% 14% 14/4 14% 20/ 14% 42 \l% 13 1 13% \ll I3l I3i 4 14% 14% \t:k 14% 14% 14^ 14% 14% 14^ 14% 14% 14/a 14% 14% 41 III \^l i3'i: \lk 13% 13% 1% 13% 13% \ii 13% 13% 14 14% 14^4 14;^ 14% 14% 14/4 14% 14% 40 \l% \ll 13^. \l\ 13^4 i3!r4 \ll 13% 13% \i% 13% 1374 13^ 13% 13% 13% 13% 13% 14 14% 14% 39 13 \ll 13^/4 \lt i3;r4 13% 13/^ 13% 13^4 \i% 13% 13% 13 !i 13% 13% \l% 13% 13% 13% 13% 13% 38 12% \il \fL \2% 12T4 12% 13 13/4 13^4 \ii 13% 13% 13% 13% 13% \i% 13% 13% 13% 13% 13% 37 \1% n% \il \2% 12I 12/4 12^ I2'l4 12% \i% 12% 12% 13 13% 13% 13/8 13% I3I; 13% 13% 13% 36 \1% \il Ml [1% \2l 12% 12^ 12% 12% I2%a 12% 12% 12^ 12% 12% 12;^ 12% 12% 13 13% 13% 35 12 \ii 12^4 \ll \ll 12% 12^ 12% 12% 12;^ 12% 12% 12!^ 12% 12% \2% 12% 12% 12% 12% 12% 34 w'/a \\l 11% \\A 11% 11% 12 12^4 12% 12;^ 12% \& 12/4 12% 12% \2% 12'% 12% 12/a 12% 12% 33 wV. \\l ll'1^4 \\% \^t 11% 11-^ 11% 11% 11^8 11% 11% 12 12% 12% 12/8 12% 12% 12% 12% 12% 32 \\% \\l 11^4 \\% 10/ I1I4 11^ 11;^ 11/4 11% 11/8 11% 11% \\% 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 12 12% 12% 31 II \\l III; iiX iir. 11% llX 11% 11% 11,^ 11% 11% li'/z 11% 11% li%8 11% 11:14 11% 11% 11% 30 110 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. TABLE 50. T^HIS table deals with direct quantities, and will within reasonable limits give accurate results. The top line gives the heights. The column to the right gives the breast sizes. The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt with is the over-shoulder measure corresponditig, with all additions included. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. Ill TABIiE 50. 5 ft. 5 Hi 3 in. 5 It. lin, 5 ft. 2 in. 5, ft, 4 in. 5 ft. 5 in, 5 It. Bin. 5 ft. Tin. 5 ft. Bin. 5 ft.- gin, 5n. 10 In. 5 it. ilin. 6 ft. Btt. lin. 6 ft. 2 in. 6 ft. 3 in. 6 ft. 4 in. 6tt. 5 in. 6 ft. 6 in. 6 ft. Tin. 6 ft. Sin. BRtAST 5liES i\Z 21^^' i\i 22 lii 22/8 22/. 22/ 22/ 22^^ 22/ 22% 22% 22/ 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 23 23% 50 2lX l\l i\% l\l 2\% la 21% 21I 22 22/ 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% ■43 2\% 1\% 21/4 l\l 1\% 21/6 21/ l\l 21^ 2I%6 21% 21% 21% 21% 22 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% 22% M l\il 20/8 nl 21 21/6 i\% 1\% 21X 21%6 2l/a 21% 21/ 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 22 22% ■47 20;^ 20^6 20^ 20^ 20^ nl 20/8 20% 21 l\t 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 4S 20X 2046 20/ 20/6 20^ 20/6 20/ 201 20/a 20/. 20^ 20% 20/ 20% 2! 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% 21% '45 19:^6 19/8 19^ 20 20^ 20;^ 20/6 20/ 20/b 20% 20% 20/ 20% 20/ 20% 20% 20% 20% 20t 21 21% 44 19X 19% 19/8 19/6 19^ 19^6 19/8 I9'I 20 20/fe 20% 20% 20/ 20% 20% 20% 20% 20% 20% 20%^ 20% 43 19/6 I9iifc \^% 19% 19^ 19/6 19/ 19/. 19/ lo/s 19% 19% 19/ 19% 20 20% 20/ 20% 20% 20% 20% 42 laT^ 18/8 \fi 19 19/6 19/8 19/6 19-^ 19% 19% 19% 19/ 19% 19% 19% 19% 19% 19% \il 20 20% 4i 18/2 18/6 \Z% 18;^^ I8/4 18^ \a 18% 19 19% 19/ 19% 19/ 19% 19% 19% 19% 19% 19% 19% 19% 40 18/8 18/6 I8/4 18/6 18/8 18/6 18/ 18% 18^ 18/a 18% 18% 18% \ii 19' 19% 19% 19% 19% 19% 19% 39 nl 17/8 17'J^ 18 18/6 18/a 18/6 I8/4 isi 18% 18% 18/ 18% 18/ 18% 18% 18% 18% 18% 19 19% 38 \fA 17^6 17/8 17/6 17% \fi \ll 17% 18 18% 18/ 18% 18/ 18% 18% 18% 18% 18% 18% 11/ 18% 18% 37 17/. \ll 17/4 17/6 17/8 \ll 17/ 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 18 18% 18% 18% 18% 18% 18% 36 16'^ 16^ 16/6 1^ 17/6 17/8 17/6 I7X 17% 17/8 17/. 17/ 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 18 18% 35 I6/2 16/6 16/8 16/6 I6/4 16^6 16% 16% 17 17% 17% 17% 17% 17/s 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 17% 34 le/s i6/;6 I6/4 16/6 16/8 16/6 16/ 16^/il 16% 16% 16% 16% \a 16% 17 17% 17% 17% 17/ 17% 17% 33 15% 15/8 \ll 16 16/6 16/8 \^l 16/ 16/6 16% 16% 16/ 16% 16% 16% 16% 16% 16% 16% 17 17% 32 I5X 15/6 15^ 15^ 15^ 15^6 15^ 15/ 16 16% 16% 16% 16% 16% 16% 16% 16'/. 16% 16% 16% 16% 31 is/a 15/6 15/4 15/6 15% 15/6 15/ 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 15% 1^ 16^6 16% 16% 16% 16% 16% 30 112 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. THE UPPER-SHOULDER MEASURE FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. TABLE 51. T^HIS table, in order to avoid the very small fractions, varies about Jg^ inch from the original table in the smaller sizes and about the same in the extremely large ones. The rule for finding quantities for different heights and widths is the same as given for the previous ready reference tables, namely : The top line gives the heights. The column to the right gives the breast sizes. The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt with is the upper shoulder measure corresponding. THE LOWER SHOULDER. ' IZES ARE NOT GIVEN IN THIS CONNECTION, AS THEY PARTAKE OF WIDTH ONLY AND ARE THEREFORE THE SAME AS IN TaBLE 26. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 113 TABIiS 51. 5 ft. 5 ft. 1 in. 5 It. 2 in. 5(t. 3 in. 5 (t. 4 in, 5 ft. 5 in. 5 It. 6 in. 5 It. 7 in. 5 11. Sin. 5 ft. 9 in. 5 ft. iOln. 5 ft. II in. 6 11. 6 ft. 1 in. 6 ft. 2 in. 6 ft. 3 in. 6 ft. 4 in. 6ff. 5 in. 6 ft. 6 in. 6 ft. 7 in. 6f1. 8 in, BRUST SIZES 29/2 29l 29;^ 30/ 30 X 30/ 30'/ 30:^ 31 31/ 31/ 31/ 31/ 3(/ 32X 32/. 32/z 32/ 32/a 33/ 33^4 50 29/« 29^6 29/ 29/ 29/a 30/ 30/ 30/ 30/ 30/ 31 31/ 31/ 31/ 31/ 31% 32^ 32/ 32/^ 32/ 32/ 49 n'/A li% 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 30/ 30/ 30/ 30/ 3076 31 31/ 31/ 31/ 31/ 31:1 32/ 32/ 32/ 48 ny^ lil 28/ 28/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/6 29/ 30/6 30/ 30/ 30/ 30!!^ 31 31/ 31/ 31/ 31/ 3ll 32/ 47 28 liAb 28/8 28/6 28/ 28/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/6 29/ 30 ii 30/ 30/ 30/ 30:1^ 31 31/ 31/ 31/ 31/ 46 nr, n% 28 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 30/ 30/ 30/ 30/ la 31 31/ 31/ 45 11% 111 27/6 27/6 28 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29; 29/ 29/ 30/4 30/ 30/. 30/^ 31 44 26/8 111 27/ 27/6 27/ 27/6 28 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 30/ 30/ 30/ 43 ny^ %l 26/fl 27^ 27^ 27/ 27/ 11% 28 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 28^ 29^ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 30/ 42 26/6 %l 26/ 26/ 26/ 27/ 27/ 111 27/ 27/ 28 28/6 28/e 28/. 28/ 28/ 29/ 29/ 29/ 29^ 29/ 41 25^4 25'^ 26/6 26/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 111 27/4 27/ 27/ 27/ 28 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 28^6 29;^ 29/ 29/ ■40 25/8 25^ 25/ 25/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 27/ 27/ 27/ 27/ 27l 28 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 28^ 29/ 39 25 25/. 25/ 25/6 25/ 25/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 27/ 27/ 27/ 27/ 27/. 28 28/ 28/ 28/ 28/ 38 %l la 25 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 26/ 26/ 26/ %! 26/ 27/ 27/ 27/ 27/ 27/ 28 1^1 28/ 37 %l id 24/a 24'il 25 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 26/ lli 27/ 27/ 27^^ 111 28-^ ■:3s 111 24/6 24/4 nl 24/ 25'/ 25 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 26^ 26/ 26/ nl 26/ 26/ 27/ 27/ 111 27/ ' 35 23/ 23/6 23/5 nl 24^. 24/6 24/ 24/ 25 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 26/6 26/ 111 27^ 34 23/a 23^6 23/. lit 23/8 24/6 24/4 24/ 24/6 24/ 25 25/ 25/ 25/ 25^ 25/ 26;^ 26'/ 26/ 26/ 26/ 33 111 22^e 23/8 11% 23/ 23/ 23/ 24/ 24/ 24/ 24/. 24/ 25^ 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 26/ 26/6 26/ 32 21% 22^6 22/ 111 23/ 23/ 23/ 23/ 23/ 24/ 24X 24l 24/ nl 25 ^ 25/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 25^ 26/ 31 11 22/. 111 111 22/ 22/ 23/ 23/ 23/ 23/ 23/ 24/ 24/ 24/ 24/ 24!^ 25 25/ 3/ 25/ 25/ 25/ 30 114 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. UNDERARM LENGTHS FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. TABLE 52. T^HIS table is an average for all types and does not entirely correspond to any of the preceding tables on that account, but will average quite close to the general run of men. The basis is the average of measures for all forms, but may be figured by adding the normal width of back plus a seam to the normal under- arm length, and adding J inch to each inch of heights above the normal and reduc- ing the same amount below it. Each size above or below the normal increases or decreases respectively ^ inch. 7Ae top line gives the heights. The column to the i^ight gives the breast sizes. The figures directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt ivith arc the sleeve lengths corresponding. It is well understood that the underarm length of sleeves loses as the back width increases. The underarm length therefore partakes of both height and width, as the length decreases as the width increases, while the outside length of the sleeve does not change. Therefore there is not given the outside length of sleeve in these tables, as the lengths already given and explained answer all purposes. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 115 TABLE 52. 5(1. r.(i. ill), 2 in. 5 11. 3 in. 5 It, 4 in, 5 It. 5 in. 5 11. Bin. .5 It. 7 in. 5 It. 8 in. sir 9 in. 10 in. .Ml, II in. Bit, Bft. lin. fill. 2 in. 6(1. 3 in. Bit. 4 in. Bit. 5 in. Bit. Bin. Git. 7 In. Bll. 8 in. BREASr SIZES 15 15/4 15;^ 15/4 16 I6X 16^ 16^ 17 17;^ 17;^ 17/4 18 18X 18;^ 18^ 19 19^ \%yz 19X 20 50 isX 15% 15!^ 15/8 \a 16/8 16/8 16^8 17/8 17/8 17^ 17/a 18/8 \%\ is/a 18/8 19X 19/8 19/8 19/8 20/6 49 I5X 15 /a I5^i 16 16^ 16;^ 16^ 17 17^ i7/a 17/4 18 I8X \%l 18^ 19 I9X 19/. 19^ 20 20^ 43 \l% 15^ \^% 16/8 \d 16/8 16/8 17/8 17^ 17/8 17/3 18^8 18^ 18/8 M'k 19;^ 19/8 19/8 19^8 20/8 20/8 47 \hi 15^^ 16 I6/4 l6/z 16/4 17 17 X 17/^ I7'X 18 18/. 18^ 18 '4 19 19^ 19;^ I9X 20 20/4 20/^ 4B \l% 15^* 16:^ 16/8 16^^ 16^ 17/3 \1% 17/a \ii 18/8 18/8 18% \l\ 19/8 19/8 19^ Wk 20/8 20^8 20I 45 15^ 16 16/^ 16/2 16^ 17 I7X ill 17/4 18 I8/4 18/a I8/4 19 19/4 19!^ 19/4 20 20/4 207. 20'^ 44 \ii 16/8 16)^ 16/8 16/8 17^ 17^ \1% 17/8 18/8 \^l 18/8 A 19^ 19/s 19/3 19^ 20^8 20'^ 20^8 20^ 43 16 leX 16/. 16^4 17 17/4 17/a 17/4 18 I8/4 \%l I8X 19 19/4 19^ 19/4 20 20^ 20/. 20/4 21 42 \A le^a \^l 16/8 17/8 17/e 17/8 17^ 18/a 18/8 \A 18 /s 19/8 19/3 19/3 19/8 20^ nl 20/8 20^8 21^ 41 16^^ 16/{ 16/. 17 ' 17/4 \iyz 17/4 18 I8/4 18/. 18^ 19 19/4 19^2 19/4 20 20i^ n\ n\ 21 21^ 40 16?^ 16^/8 16/8 17^ 17/8 \i% 17/8 18^8 18/8 18/8 18^^ 19/8 19/8 19 /» 19% 20/8 20^ %l 20^4 21/8 21^^ 39 16/z \a 17 17^^ 17/^ \i% 18 18^4 18/a 18/. 19 19/4 19/. 19^4 20 20/4 20/2 20/4 21 21/4 2l/a 38 !6^« \a 17/8 \ll 17^8 17/8 18 /» 18 /s 18/8 18/8 19/8 19/8 19/8 19% 20;^ 20/8 20I 20^^ 21/8 21^^ 2l5^ 37 16^ 17 17^ \ll \1% 18 I8/4 \a 18/4 19 19/4 19;^ 19^ 20 20/4 20/. 20/4 21 21 X •hi 21^4 36 le;^ 17/8 l7^/« \1% 17/s 18^ 18/8 18/8 \d 19^8 19^ 19/8 19^/8 20 /a 20/8 20/8 20% 21 /a 21'^ wi 21^ 35 17 \1% 17;^ \1% 18 I8/4 18/a I8/4 19 19/4 19/z 19/4 20 20'4 20/2 20^ 21 21/4 21/. 21/4 22 34 !7X \1% \ll \1% 18!^ l8/« 18'i IS/a 19/8 19/3 19/8 19/3 20/8 20^/8 20/8 20^8 21/8 21'^ 21% 21/8 22^ 33 I7X 17/a \1% 18 I8/4 18/a I8/4 19 19/4 19/. 19/4 20 20 X 20/. 20^ 21 • 21/4 2l/a 21^4 22 22^ 32 \1% 17'/^ \ll 18'i 18/8 \i% 18^8 19/8 19/8 19^^ 19/8 20/8 20/^ 20^^ 20^^ 21/3 21'^ 21^^ 21'^ 22 '/8 22I 31 \ii 17X 18 18'^ \i% I8/4 19 19/4 ig/z 19/4 20 20/4 20/. 20/4 21 21/4 21^ 21^ 22 22^4 n\ 30 116 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. VEST LENGTHS FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. TABLE 53, T^HIS table is composed of the direct quantities that govern vest-length. With the exception of making due allowance for the individual ideas of both operator and wearer, the quantities given will be found satisfactory for all sizes. The top line gives the heights- . The cohtmn to the right gives the breast sizes. The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt with is the vest-length, with additions included corresponding to the height and width. The lengths thus gained are to be applied on a perpendicular line, as for normals. The amount the width extends when the waist is applied in the larger sizes will give a curving line to the front and a dip to the bottom run (in front of the perpendicular line) which will supply the additional length needed when the waist is larofe. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 117 TABLE 5S. 5(t. 5(1. Iln. 5(t. 2 in, 5 It, 3 in. 5 ft, 4 in, 5 ft, 5111. 5tt, 6 in. 5 ft. 7 in. 5 ft. 8 in. 5tt. 9 In. 5(t. 10 in. 5tt, II in. lift; 6 ft, Iln. 6 ft, 2 In, 6 It, 3 in. 6 ft. 4 In, 6fl, 5 in. 6 It. 6 in. 6 ft. Tin, 6f1, Bin, BREAST SIZE.5 74 27| 28 28/4 111 284 29 29X 29/. 29/4 30 304 30;^ 30/4 31 3l4 31^ 31^4 32 324 32/. 50 iV/z 27;^ 27^4 28 284 284 28^4 29 294 294 294 30 III 30;^ 304 31 3lX 3l4 l\% 32 32/4 4S 27 27/4 27/a 27ii 28 284 28/a 11% 29 29 4 29/. 29X 30 30 4 30/a 30^ 31 31/4 31/. 31^4 32 43 id 27 274 27;^ 27^ 28 284 111 28^4 29 294 29/. 29^4 30 30/4 304 304 31 31/4 l\l 31^4 47 26^ 26^4 27 27/4 27'^ 27^^ 28 111 284 28^4 29 294 294 29^4 30 30 4 30 4 30X 31 3lX l\l 4S 26/4 %\ 26^4 27 27^ 27^ 274 28 28X 284 28^ 29 294 29/. 29^4 30 30/4 30/. 30^4 31 l\i 45 26 26/4 111 26^ 27 274 27^ 274 28 284 28 '4 11% 29 294 29/a 29X 30 30 4 30/. 30X 31 44 25^ 26 26/4 26/2 26^4 27 27/4 iVk 27^4 28 284 111 28^ 29 294 294 29^ 30 Ill 304 30^4 43 25^ 11% 26 264 264 264 27 274 27;^ 111 28 284 284 28^4 29 29/4 29/. 29^ 30 304 III 42 25'^ 25 /a 25^4 26 264 26/. 26^4 27 274 274 27^ 28' 28/4 284 284 29 294 294 29^4 30 304 41 25 25/4 111 254 26 26/4 26^ 264 27 274 111 27^4 28 28/4 28/. 28^4 29 294 29!^ 29^4 30 40 U% 25 25/4 25/2 25^4 26 264 26^ 26^4 27 274 111 11% 28 284 284 28'4 29 294 294 29^ 39 24'/. 24^4 25 25/4 25!^ 25^4 26 264 26;^ 26^4 27 111 111 27^4 28 284 28/. 28^4 29 294 29/a 38 24/4 24/a 24^4 25 254 25;^ 25^ 26 264 26/a 26^4 11 111 274 27/4 28 284 lit 28^4 29 29X 37 24 24/4 24X 24/4 25 254 25;^ 25^4 26 264 264 111 11 274 111 11%A 28 111 28;^ 28^ 29 38 23X 24 24^ 24/2 244 25 254 25/. 25^ 26 264 111 11% 27 111 111 27^ 28 28/4 284 28/4 35 23)^ 23^4 24 24/4 %l 244 25 254 254 25^ 26 264 111 264 11 111 274 27^ 28 284 284 34 23/4 lik 23^4 24 24/4 244 24^/ 25 254 25-4 111 26 111 264 11% 11 27/4 274 ifl 28 284 33 23 23 '4 23!^ 23^ 24 244 244 24^4 25 25X 254 254 26 264 111 11% 27 27/4 111 27^4 28 32 11% 23 23/4 23/a 234 24 24/4 24^ 244 25 254 254 25^ 26 111 111 26% 27 11% 274 27^4 31 lik 22^X 23 23/4 23/a 23^4 24 244 244 244 25 254 25/. 25^ 26 111 111 26^ 11 27X lli 30 118 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. INSEAM LENGTHS AND WAIST-RISES FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 'THIS table offers a knotty problem for solution. The waist sizes as they are large or small add to or deduct from a relative amount to the rise and inseam quantities, and as waist sizes differ, we have a plural quantity adjusted to a singular one ; besides this the length and the rise are largely governed by height. We must therefore provide for such conditions. These conditions we have tried to meet by giving several waist sizes to each seat size, and a relative addition representing the gain above the normal waist rise corresponding to each degree of gain ; this is to be added to the height quantity itself, which varies in direct proportion to the height. TABLE 54. T^HE first column to the right contains the seat sizes from ^t, to 54. The next 6 columns contain the waist sizes, as marked at the head of these columns. The 6 columns to the left of the waist sizes contain the additions correspond- ing to the columns of the same number in the waist sizes. The open space to the left of the additions has the heights from 5 feet to 6 feet 8 inches at the top, and the waist rise and the inseam lengths corresponding to the heights at the bottom, respectively. Example : — To find the inseam and waist rise corresponding, for a man 5 feet 10 inches tall, 48 inches seat and 45 inches waist, proceed as follows : First find the number of the column in which the waist size is located in the line that contains the seat size, which is Column i in this case. Find the addition in Column i under the heading " The Key," and in the same horizontal line as the waist and seat are located. The addition in this case is \ inch. Then find the waist rise and the inseam corresponding to the height, which in this case are 1 1 and 33, respectively. Now add the \ inch to the waist rise, and deduct the same amount from the inseam, which gives 11^ side rise and 32^ inseam for a man 48 inches seat, 45 inches waist and 5 feet 10 inches in height. Again let us suppose that the same man measures 50 inches around the waist, the other measures the same as before. This waist measure is in Column 6 and the addition in Column 6 is if inches. This amount added to the rise would then make it ii\ inches, and the same amount deducted from the inseam would leave it 31 J inches for a man 5 feet 10 inches tall of 48 seat and 50 waist. If the waist is larger than the sizes given in Column 6, make the addition \ inch more for each size above the size given in Column 6, and if smaller than sizes in Column i, reduce \ inch for each size, until the figure is reached. To the left of the figure 0, reverse the process and deduct from the waist rise and add to the inseam the quantity in the column corresponding to the waist size. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 119 ISO "r S to.' J- »1 r^o C30 =•=* CJZ> CiD ? = ^- CO F = CaJ ^- J = CO CO s= ^ = W = CA> =, — ^ CO NO r>C ss C*3 ho ^vr" F = CO = F = Co CO -fe\ SS CO ^ ^ -p* ~- CJi NO F = CO CJI -&^ F = CO NO =* =^ CO NO CJI en ^ CO w^ CO ^^ It!" CO CO COCT» 5^ i 1 w CD ^ ^ -^ >^ ^ Si< ssi; ^^ Js^ = = i^ >^ Ssi? fe:; as^c :^ ££s; — ,^ ^&\ ~ 5^ CD CD — osS >^ »^ SsC 5^ ^^ Co^ <= = (5^ ^ 6S4? fee ^ -i^ ~^^ ise ^e a^ r;s< NO ^ ^ JsC osi; >^ Sb^ = = Js^ >^ wsi? ;^ 0^ >5; Ss^ — oS^ ^ ^ fee o^ -^ Co fe^ d5*? Ai^ Ss< = = Ss^ ^ ^ ^ >!C ^ ^^ *"" ^^ -^ ist; ?^ ^\ >*j as^ NO -p* ^ oo\ = "^ ^ J?; £s*? V^ ^ >i; ^ ,^ -^<: SSi" ^ S£=? -^ i^ t-o K» NO cn = = i^ ^ ;5C is^ ii; ■v:J ^< -fc^ i^ 75^ 6S*5 :^ £5=i NO -fc< NO NO ISO Eg ^ ^ LO cr* CO ~ bo = IV3 S :& a " -p* S S cn en ~ NJ LO ^ — hO CO CJl 03 ~ JS g ± bo ■p- S o^ ^ C30 *» en en cn NO NO CO s ^ LjO Co CO cn OJ CO is -c- -P» -pa- :& s S ^ ^ CO s en NO cn CO CO ^ CO ti 5> ^ " ~ = :£ e CO -p» -ta. :5 - S en en en cn CO en -F*. ^ CO fsO CO bo en " CM CjO ± S s ^ ^ *» s s CJ* en en NO tn S tn en to £S CO C^ CO ^ ss -p>- S e :& CJI ^ s s CJI en en NO en en -** en en in 05 £S ^ en m iti CO g_ ^ ^ e_ :g S: s ^ -p> S S ^_ en NO cn en 120 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. A BASIS FOR LENGTHS OF COATS. W' ''HILE lengths of coats are largely a matter of height quantities, yet the lengths should be modified by width. The corpulent height is not great enough to correspond to the width, and therefore a slight increase in the length quantities should be made for this class to offset the disproportion, as far as effect is concerned. The same line of reasoning would also involve a slight decrease in the slender form, as the subject's height is too great for his width, and the fashionable waist length for frock coats and the full lengths for both frocks and sacks should suggest a less length than that proportionate to his height. The quantities in the next table are composed of both height and width quantities and a stationarj' quantity besides, to carry out the ideas suggested. While no permanent quantity can be given as long as fashions change, yet something to figure from is essential and to the something herewith given direct quantities can be added or deducted.. If, at the beginning of a season, you decide upon a certain length for your model size, and that length is 2 inches longer than the quantities in this table, then by adding 2 inches to all the sizes you preserve an even and yet propor- tionate length for the complete range from the smallest to the largest sizes. If you decide upon a shorter length, reduce in the same way. The rules to follow can, of course, be applied to individual cases, subject to the same modifications as hereafter given and previously explained. LENGTHS FOR AVERAGE SIZES. TABLE 55. Line i, heights in feet and inches. Line 2, breast sizes, Li7ie 3, natural waist lengths, which are \ height plus a seam, or \ inch. Line 4, the fashionable waist lengths for frock coats, gained by adding i^ inch to the natural waist length. The fashionable waist may be more or less, according to taste or style. Line 5, the lengths to the seat prominence — gained from three sections of height. Lifie 6, the full lengths of average sacks — gained from \ of the full breast plus \ of full height plus 3 inches more or less. Line 7, the lengths for cutaways — gained from \ of the full height plus" \ of the full breast plus 10 inches more or less. Line 8, the lengths of double-breasted frocks— gained from \ full height plus \ full breast plus 13^ inches more or less. Line 9, the lengths of average overcoats — gained from \ of full height plus i of full breast. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 121 vO ^j O^ ' 4^ J - 5' 3 o o g o n" n 3 . S- ■ 2, • C • o ■ c : cr ! a ■ a. ( 3 3" : ») >3 c 3 3- O r 3 9- o T3 3 3 5' 3 3- o' 3 t 3 00 3- C "t EL 3 i' K oq' 3- 3' 3 a. 5' 3- —J. Caa NO NO CJl NO NO 55 S^ = ess g- " CTS NO =^ en ^ — CJ1 CO Ca3 OJ* i: S^ ^ ^ NO 3" =r !ij =_ NO ^ S*? -p> S CJI CO " NO CO ~ -p» =' rr ^_ ~. Ca3 t3 CO ^ -p> NO 03 ^_ NO to ^ OO :& = CJl i5< -P» ^ CO &? ^ ^ i. en O CJI ^^ i5 CO s NO CO —J -P» OCJI ^J<; i>o ^ NO o» ^ ^ ^CJl £1 ^ ^ CTi = ^ -P> CO CJI fee: S (ji<=i ^ NO cS ~J s «?^ CJl g£ -p> ^" CO 03 ^ en sr=x 122 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. LENGTHS FOR CORPULENT SIZES. TABLE 56. T^HE same general plan obtains as in the preceding table, the differences of the height and width quantities giving the variations. Line i, the heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the breast sizes. Line 5, the natural waist lengths, gained by I height plus a seam, or | inch. Line 4, the fashionable waist lengths for corpulent frocks, gained by adding 1 1 inch to the natural waist length, which is J inch more than in the averages in Table 54. Line 5, the lengths to the seat prominence, which are three sections of the height. Line 6, the full lengths of corpulent sacks, gained from ^ of the full height plus ][ of the full breast plus 3 inches, but may be more or less. Lifte 7, the lengths of cutaway frocks, gained from ^ of the full height plus T of the full breast plus 10 inches. The last may be more or less. Line 8, the lengths of double breasted frocks, gained from I full height and i full breast plus 13^ inches. The last may be more or less. Line 9, the lengths of corpulent overcoats, gained from ^ of full height plus I of full breast, to which additions or deductions may be made. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 123 ^4 OS ^ : ,; 5' 3 S- o o < ft o o Orq 3- O D- O C a; tr 5- o p >< W S- o r O ■T3 -( O 3 5 ft 3 o 5' B. 3 S- i2 c 3 3" 3' 2- p 3 a- 5' 3- s %^ — ) r>o s a^ c*3 cn is; ^ CXI = I< CO —4 .^te en CO CO en ^ ^ ~ cyi cji a CO !<: OO 1^ CO 03cn I" ** ^6^ ^ CO NO ^ ^ -p> -J CJI 4=» — 1 CO NO CO -p» OO CJI #: —J CO cn 5?^ ^fe\ Nj Co 5< CO S:; s p'.— CO CO en CO :& oocji fS ^ CO K . I . r n >0 CO VI o» vjn ■t- w H " »^ ■^ ^ M r ^ y. to X c •— ' >— •— * ■-' ■3- c '^ n" n" n" " 5- O %■ a crq K) jq Jq 3- =r K. (/) o o o o P 'i. ■^ S- < o o c a; cr » o c P TT T3 -^ O 3. 5 3 3 3 3" p 3 el- s' 3- fTr — f*o — CO cjj cn LK> -(i< ^< >c Oo^ I^ -J i«o .^ -^ CO *»cn CO — 1 .^^ "^l— :^ ~ ='=* CO CO 1^3 — — cji cn i*; 1 -P> :e^ NO = =* ■F> CO ^ -1^ 5^ ^ CO 05 cn .&C -^n; .^ Ji« .t^ i\ f^ CO po ho oS ^ CO -p» -JCJl fet; £^ -&^ M\ 4^^ ■ ■ #^ to CJl r>o i«o m =5 cS oo CJI i^^ 4^ ^ j^ k5\ ro\ ^^ ^ - Ol3 KD — ^— CO CO C71 w N^ ^fe\ -^ ^^^ -^^ S — 1 CO CD NO *>^ ~ oo r= cn ^ -(:> —4 CO <=3 !:3 CO OO £S 03 ^ ^^ ^^C OO^ 4J< kX, ^ -P» oo CO NO ea S^ ■& r-3 OS -S>C £sC .Me .^ .^^ i CiO Co NO — -p» -Pk 03 S CO I^O i~\ i*s- i^ .^ M:* Ks\ ►>c S ^ -P" CO oo NO CO :& cn oa 126 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. WORKING TABLE FOR AVERAGES WITHOUT ADDITIONS TO THE SHORT MEASURE. TABLE 58. 'THIS table is identical with Table 31, excepting that the short measures in Lines 10, II, 12 and 13 are given as taken, wzi/ioui i/ie add/^zms ior seams and ease. This is done to facilitate comparisons with measures as taken, and merely to give the operator the choice to use the table that he may find the most convenient. Lines i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are the same as explained for Table 31. Line 10, the scye depths without additions, as given in Line 7 of Table 1 1. Line 1 1, the blades without additions, as given in Line 3 of Table 12. Line 12, the front-shoulder measures without additions, as given in Line 6 of Table 1 3. Line 13, the over-shoulder measures withozit additions, as given in Line 6 of Table 14. Lines 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 and 26 are the same as given in and explained for Table 31. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 127 On ^ ■f- ~ ;; » vO CO ^ On ; ~ OJ ,' - NO 03 ^-I On +- .; z 'o 'o o o NO NO NO NO On ■- ^ ON CN On On 'J, H 5; 3 n d, o -1 5; -a ^§ ■ & : 0^ ■ o r 3 5- o 5- o" r 3 O 5- 3 iL 3 r 3 crq o m w p c 3 < 3 Crq 3" O 3 a-" ; o • 3- ■ ft '■ 3- • C : 3 • 3 C 3 3-™ c f; 3 O a-_ : 3- ! oc' • rr : o • 5- ■ n c n ^ p e; o ^ Ei o 3 ! o ; p : tf^ ■ re o 5^ o 3- p 5; ^ ■ 3 ; 3 i '• 3 ; 0^ Cl. cl 3" cr r G -3 3- B, K < 0' i, M : c_ • s • 3- • ■ c • p ■ c : c. -1 _^ o' T 3 in V 3- ■ ; c • D- -( : t. ■ 5- ■ • c '. p . c . g. W o. c □. g. 0' 3 LTl •a 5- c p a. 5' 3 ^ a ~i w i' 3 ■ • 3' • 0. • : g r p r" 2 » . ^ ■ p • 3 : c. : 1 ! 5' . 3 C P_ n crq' t 3 p_ tJq' 3- 3' X 3' c 3 2 ?| 3q 5 oS "E P 5 3- ■ .-^ —J s — J f3< NO Jt\ l\Z —J ^ NO = NO\ -si 1^ S CO «= en ^ ° OS =t eo NO CO oo i3! Sl2 —J —J Sj<: 00\ NO NO NO en ^^ CO ~sl NO fif Sj^ ' CO cs OS — cn -sl ^- CO CO NO to cn 5ls —J oo — 1 NO NO £3 en Oo\ ^ —J NO CO NO — en = — «»s NO OS r>o NO CO CO NO CO 56^ o« 2^S as^iJ oo —J -p> ,i&^ NO NO CO en 1=^ ^ 00 CO eo CO ri<; en S CO CO CO CJl en NO ^ -pk !g oo eo —J OS ^\ nS\ OO - ■P^ NO OS ' CO NO OS -Ci CJl -P> 1 CO -P» NO Sc oo oo —a *» ^ — J :S OS N0\ NJ\ ^ OO rs3\ CO CO cn ^ OS i CO NO OS cn CJl CJl CO CO S5: t- NO -P» ^ r eo CO ^ en —J NO -P» r3^ NO en ^ = 00 CO NO CO OS " OS i CO eo OS 0> CJl NO S ■^ NO cn £5< ^ ^ eo CO 4^ Oo en —J NO en NO ^^^ 00 ^^^ CO —si ^i~\ OS =: CO 2j —J CJl S en NO en 5^ ^ eo CO 00 en NO OS 5^ S ^ N3^ CO 5S OO -p» —J 3 Co s oo CJl OS CJl >*- 6 li^ NO cn —J ^ eo CO 00 cn 5s^ — J OS 5? 00 ^ ^ CO cn CO CO ^ —si « CO -P3> OS CO CO CJl ~ 5 5^ &?; 5^ i^ ^ ° oo en r5^ eo NO OS NO —J \C*J 03\ NO NO CO o5\ CO —J -p» en —si :: CO en ^ C= CJl NO ' :3 91 oo ^ oo 4^ GO cn eo NO —J NO 00 OO CO CO oo ■p^ en IN3\ —si 3 cn ^ =: CJl CO OS at cyi s; t3 eo i^ «o KJ\ CO ^ "^ NO 00 NO OO 00^ CO CO -p» ;5 OS ; ^ — 1 NO 03 -p^ CO CJl CO 6»^ Si NO o» eo K^ eo ^ CO ~f 00 SO NO 00 6S^ CO n3\ ^&s^ NO CO -IS. -p- OS 00 t5\ cn -si r5\ == CJl cn NO en % NO an eo ^ oo = CO 05 oo NO CO so CO ^ u CO CD -P> -si —J en --I = CJl OS 1- en NO Sr en ^ £»<::! i? eo i^ = CT» 00 NO CO NO NO -^\ 1^ & — J 5^ ^ CO en —si tnJv S CJl -sj NO cn NO tCS< NO ^ >*;■ -N 03 ^ 5 00 CO NO S3 00^ r^ 00^ OS -p» 00 ~ CO cn —J S CJl eo NO en NO ". NO — 1 ^f OO i*? =^ er> £s5; ,s^ CO so 00^ ^ ?- :S; rS\ 00^ f5\ CO CO ^CJi CO NO NO cn NO en — J t5\ ¥^ oo ^ S; CO fee ^ NO ^ ^ ^ Ic CO -p» oo CO ^ ts -P> OS CO C^ CJl ° NO cn NO . ^ oo ^ -^ — CO NO CO 5? NO en ^ cn -p» CO —si CO CO 5S OS S? CJl - ISO CO 03 en !5\ —J M. oo >^ CT9 >5r CO CO NO 0^ ^ NO cn_ s_ rs^^^ NO s ° ^ -p» CO -p> s oo CJ) ^ 128 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. TYPES OF FORMS. The Importance of the Knowledge of Types in Connection with Proportions. T^HE cutter who has occasion to cut by proportions will find himself handi- capped, even when he has mastered the science, unless he possesses a clear knowledge of the types of forms. While height and width give the basis for general development, they do not provide for what Huxley terms "spontaneous variations," or variations that occur without any apparent cause. Tailors encounter this element, principally, in shoulder formation and attitude, but beyond this there are numerous minor variations, such as long and short bodied forms, flat and round forms, forms of long and short extremities, forms varying in corresponding parts of the two sides, and so on through a long list, many of which have been treated in the classifications of the forms already dealt with. As far as we have gone there has been nothing to indicate attitude or shoulder formation ; but attitude and the slope and squareness of the shoulders are important and necessary elements when individuals are dealt with. Proportions, as treated up to this time, have given us the knowledge of treat- ment in masses, as the artist would say, by which we could safely prepare a set of patterns intended to average well for a great number of people ; but when employed for individual patterns the treatment in masses should be supplemented by other details, and attitude and shottlder formation are details that come Jindcr this head. Further details can be added,, but there is always danger of loading any proposition down to an unwieldy point. We shall therefore confine ourselves to the details referred to. To illustrate the need of these details, let us suppose a case of two coats of the same kind to be cut by proportions for two different men whom we have never seen, but who are of exactly the same height and the same width. As the basis to figure from is the same, the deductions reached from them would naturally be the same also ; and though the garments constructed from such a method of deduc- tion would be of perfect proportions, we might learn to our sorrow that neither one of the garments corresponded to the figure dealt with ; for while the figures were identical in height and width, one might be extremely low shouldered and the other extremely high shouldered, which would cause our otherwise scien- tifically calculated garments to fall short of perfection in one case and beyond it, if the figure of speech is allowable, in the other. This argues in favor of a third element entering in, besides the height and width, when cutting garments for people we cannot measure ourselves. This element is shoulder formation. The importance of this element, shotUder formation, is shown by Plates 4 and 5. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 129 PLATE 4. The Sloping or Low Shoulder. The dotted line shows the normal height of the shoulder, as illustrated by the Figures of Plate i, page 63. Plate 4. For the figures of this plate the shoulder height (see the line next below the dotted line) is less than normal by one-eighth of a section, or one sixty-fourth of the full height, i inch for a height of 5 feet 6 inches, or 66 inches. 130 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. . PLATE 5. The High or Square Shoulder. The dotted line shows the normal height of the shoulder as illustrated by the figures of Plate i, page 63. Plate 5. For the figures of this plate the shoulder height (see the line next above the dotted line) is more than normal by one-eighth of a section, or one sixty-fourth of the full height, i inch for a height of 5 feet 6 inches, or 66 inches. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 131 But, again, let us imagine the same cases with normal shoulder formations, which according to our present stage of calculating ought to make a garment cut for one correct for the other ; but it might not do so because of the attiiitde of the men. One might be overerect and the other stooping, and still both might be of the same height, draw the same breast measure and be of normal shoulder forma- tion. This suggests the need of a fourth element to be employed when cutting individual garments by proportions, namely, attitude. PLATE 6. Attitude. The figure in the center represents the normal attitude, that at at the left the overerect and that at the right the stooping. Plate 132 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. We have therefore to consider height, width, shoulder formation a7id attitude. This brings us to an interesting point, the definition of types, and the questions may well be asked : " How can we define the degree of slope or squareness dealt with ? and how can attitude be ascertained ?" We are in a general way cognizant of the fact that the shoulder formation of some people is best typified by the slope of a champagne bottle, while others may be likened to the square effect found in the average ink bottle. To determine the shoulder slope, ■pXa.ce. a straight edge even with the top of the sleeve head, or at the height of the shoulder, and make a mark in the center of the back, even with the shoulder height. Measure the distance from the mark just made to the height of the coat, or to the collar seam. This gives the slope, and 3 inches may be considered an aver- age. Anything more than 3 inches would be the amount of extra slope and any- thing less than 3 inches would be the amount of squareness of the shoulder. These quantities gained as described can be applied to any system of cutting. This treatise is not intended to advocate methods nor indicate a preference for any system. To bring out features applicable to all systems worthy of the name is the limit of the purpose of this volume. To ascertain attitude, apply the length from the nape of the neck (or from the collar button for convenience) to the floor, and then from the collar button in front to the floor. The back measure should approximate 2^ inches more than the front measure. An increase over the average length in the back quantity would indicate a stooping form and a decrease would mean erectness. A tape held at the end of a strait edge, with the straight edge resting on the floor, proves a fairly satisfactory attitude taker, but much care is required in its taking. If, however, a cutter knows his business tolerably well, and has good eyes and good sense, the most satisfactory way to determine attitude is to do so by judgment. In cases where other variations are emphasized it is well to have a clear description of them accompanying the regular elements, such as long waist, short legs, bow legs, knock knees, back bending calves, one shoulder low, angular figure, round figure, flat figure, flat blades, prominent blades, large hips, flat seat, head dipping forwards, etc., etc With these points understood we can proceed to the application of the principles laid down. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 133 APPLICATION IN PRACTICE. IF a student of this book were suddenly called on to cut a suit of clothes by pro- portions, the suddenness of it might cause him some anxiety and he might find it necessary to plow through many of the preceding pages in order to connect the propositions that have been set forth before the venture could be safely made. To refresh the memory, as well as to summarize what we have said, the fol- lowing applications to actual practice are calculated to best demonstrate the mode of procedure. The three cases herewith given are selected so that the first will come within the limits of the average, the second within the definition of corpulency and the third within the range of the slender form. Let us suppose a case of a traveling salesman sending home three orders to the measurements and descriptions given below. I Height, 5 feet 6. Slope, 2f. Breast, 35. Attitude i erect. Height, 5 feet 6. Slope, 2f. Breast, 47. Attitude erect. 3 Height, 5 feet 1 1. Slope, 3|. Breast, ^y. Attitude ^ stooping. Order No. 1. The measures indicate a type of form that would come under the head of the average, as far as height and widths are concerned. The difference between the height given and the height corresponding to the breast size is i inch, the latter height being the greater; therefore as the inch and the one-half of itself make I5 inch, the half of which amount (as explained in Table 6), | inch, is deducted from the average waist (3 if) corresponding to the breast size dealt with, the waist size required is now 31 inches, the loss of size being compen- sated for by increased height. When the height is less than that corresponding to the width, take the num- ber in the top line (Table 31) corresponding to the height, say 5 feet i inch, which is 7, less the number in the top line of the column in which the breast measure is found, say 35 breast, or 3, leaving 4 as a remainder. Add one-half, or 2 inches, of the remainder to the average waist size for the breast dealt with, making the waist ;^T,i when the breast is 35 and the height only 5 feet i, the increased waist being the compensating quantity for the decreased height. The quantity gained tallies also with the ready reference Table 47. The breast size is 35 and the waist has been found as 31 for a man of 5 feet 6 inches in height. 134 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. The sectional measures as given for convenience in the ready reference tables (except the blades) are 12^ front shoulder, i/y^g- over shoulder and 9^ depth of scye with all additions included ; but as the shoulder slope is } inch less than the normal, the depth of scye and the front-shoulder measure are each reduced the amount the slope has fallen short ; if the reverse were the case the measures should be increased that amount. The blade is normally I2:[, but the half of the degree of erectness, or ^ inch, may be reduced, making it 12^. In stooping, one-half of the degree of stoop is added. The lower shoulder would be 24 and the upper 25 ; but the slope given indi- cates i inch squareness, as it is 2| instead of 3 inches, which makes it neces- sary to make the upper shoulder I inch less than the lower, or 23^ inches, as one-half of the amount the upper shoulder is less than the lower indicates the degree of squareness ; in a reverse case the one-half of the amount the upper shoulder is greater than the lower indicates extra slope. The smaller sizes average slightly sloping, and the large ones slightly square, as may be noted in Table 31. The natural waist is gained by the I height plus ^ inch, or i6f inches, as previously explained. The fashionable waist is i^ inch more, or 18^ inches. The full length for a sack, as per explanations for Table 55, would be 28^ inches. The basis for the full length of sacks may be gained by adding 3 inches, or any given number, to the vest lengths in Table 53. The full length for a cutaway (which may be gained by adding 10 inches to the vest lengths in Table 53) would be 35J inches. The overcoat (^ height and i breast) would be 4if inches long. The sleeves, as explained, 3 if inches long with additions included, or inseam length i8-| inches. The vest length, as per Table 53, is 25^ inches with additions included. The trousers, 36 seat, 31 waist, as per Table 54, would give 3 if inseam and 9I rise, which would make the outseam 41. The waist has already been determined for the coat, but may be made ^ inch less, as taken under the vest, particularly if a close fit is wanted. The seat is i inch more than the breast, or 56. The knee (^ height and J seat /ess 7 inches) is 18^ inches. The bottom (| knee/>h(s 7 inches) is 16J. TAe total measn-rements gained to cut any kind of a garment by, for a man 5 feet 6 inches tall, of t,^ breast, \ square and \ erect, is therefore the following : For the Coat. All Additions Included. 4 if length of overcoat. 35 breast. 31 waist. 1 2^ blade. 12^ front shoulder. For the Vest. 25J full length. For the Trousers. 31 waist. 18^ knee. 36 seat. 16J bottom. 9 depth of scye. i6f natural waist. 18^ fashionable waist. 28J length of sack. 35i length of cutaway. 1 7y^g- over shoulder. 23^ upper shoulder. 24 lower shoulder. 3i|- sleeve length. I If opening. 9f rise. 3 if inseam. 41 outseam. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS 135 Order No. 2. Height 5 feet 6 inches. Breast 47. Slope 2|. Attitude normal. This comes under the heading of the corpulent type. The waist for these dimensions, as explained in Table 32, would be 51, by adding the numbers in the top line and adding one-half of its own value to the number above the Checking Column, and the full value to its own amount below the Checking Column, and adding the total to the waist given in the lesser height, as explained for Table 32. It will be noticed that if we figure this from the working table of averages, as explained for Tables 31 and 6, we gain only a 49-inch waist for the case in hand. This suggests the necessity of attention to types in order to gain the results desired. The blade measure, being a width quantity, is 15I for a 47 breast, and the scye, front and over-shoulder measures may be gained from the ready reference tables as lof, 154 and siy^g., respectively. The scye and the front shoulder will be modified by the -| inch of square shoulder formation, which is the amount the shoulder slope is less than normal. This makes the scye and front shoulder 10^ and 14^, instead of as given above. The lower shoulder corresponding to the breast size is 3o|^, and Table 51 gives the upper shoulder as 29^, which is if less than the lower, one-half of which would give ^^, or within a small fraction corresponding to |- squareness, as called for by the direct shoulder slope. The natural waist is i6f and the fashionable waist may be a little more than the average, or say 18^ in this case, in order to add artificially to the appearance of the length of the waist. The sleeve for this height is 3 if. The vest length, as per Table 53, is 28I, and the opening may be made 15-^, or I inch less than half the full length, or more or less. The trousers : Table 44 gives the corpulent seat size for a 47 breast as 49^. As the waist size is already determined as 51, we may use 49 seat even, with 51 waist, as per Table 54, which gives us an inseam of 29^ and a rise of 1 1^. The outseam would be 41. The knee would be 2 if and the bottom i8-|. The measures for a man of 47 breast, 5 feet 6 inches tall, modified as per " Order No. 2," would be as below. For the Coat. All Additions are Included. io|- depth of scye. i6f natural waist. 18^ fashionable waist. 3i|^ length of sack. 38^^ length of cutaway. 47 breast. 51 waist. i5|- blade. i4|- front. 21 j\ over shoulder. 29^ upper shoulder. 30J lower shoulder. 3 if sleeve length. i5i opening. 1 1^ rise. 29I inseam. 41 outseam. For the Vest. 28i full length. For the Trousers. 51 waist. • 2 if knee. 49y seat. i8|^ bottom. 136 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. Order No. 3. Height 5 feet ii. Breast 37. Slope 3|. I stooping. This brings us in contact with the third type, namely, the slender form. The height, 5 feet 11, and the width, 37 form the basis to work from. Table 33 gives us the typical slender form quantities, and upon referring to it we find the height given exceeding the height corresponding to the width by i inch. Add one-half of itself, making i^ inch, and deduct this from the waist of the greater height, which in this case is 33^, leaving 32 as the waist size. Proceed by this method for any other size or height when the given height exceeds the height corresponding to the breast size. The short measures are: blade 13, which includes | inch for the half-inch stoop. The scye and the front shoulder are 9II and 13!^, respectively, to which the f inch extra slope must be added, making them lo^V and T3f. The over- shoulder is iSj\. The long measures would register 25^ lower shoulder and 26f upper shoul- der, the difference being i^ inch, giving | inch more slope than given in Table 5, but a remarkable approximation and a strong test for combination experiments demonstrating the flexibility of the method set forth. The natural waist, as per the height dealt with is 18 inches, but the fashion- able waist may be made i inch less than for the average, or about ij inch instead of i^ inch more than the natural waist, making 19J inches in this case. The full length for a sack may be 30 inches, for a cutaway ;^7, for a dou- ble breasted frock 40A and for an overcoat 44!. The sleeve for this height is 33I inches long. The vest opening and the length are 12^ and 27, respectively. The trousers for slender forms, as already determined, have a double inseam length of only 2 inches less than the total height, or i inch less than the half- height as a basis. 34^ is the inseam corresponding to the height dealt with, and as the waist is practically an average for this type, it can be held at that. The waist rise for this height is 10 inches, making the outseam 44^ inches. The ready reference Table 54 shows the flexibility in this instance, rise and inseam, as for a 38 seat and 32 waist the inseam comes within ^ inch of the amount given above and the table can be used with much convenience and com- parative safety. For a 38 seat the knee and bottom sizes are 2oi and 1 7^, respectively. This would make our deductions, modified to slope and attitude, as follows: CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 13^ For the Coat. All additions are included. iOy\ depth of scye. 13 blade. 18 natural waist. 13I front shoulder. 19J fashionable waist. ^^^^ over shoulder. 30 length of sack. 26f upper shoulder. 2,7 length of cutaway. 25^ lower shoulder. 37 breast. 33! sleeve. 32 waist. For the Vest. 12^ opening, 27 full length. For the Trousers. 10 rise. 38 seat. 34^ inseam. 20:^ knee. 44^ outseam. 17^ bottom. 32 waist. Deductions gained by careful calculations, as herewith demonstrated, will result in dimensions that will give, out of a certain number of cases, results as satisfactory as when the measures are taken upon the person for whom the garments are to be made. There are, of course, a few exceptions to this method, but they are trifling and immaterial. £ven two sets of measures of the same man, taken with eqtial care by an expert cutter, will generally vary. As this method has been introduced neither to do away with measures nor to improve upon them, but to act as a substitute in their absence and to give a surer hold on general trade knowledge, the reader will perhaps feel that its purpose has been acomplished. It enables the cutter to do easily many things that were before either impossible or extremely tedious and difficult. 138 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. READY REFERENCE RULES. u NDER this heading several ready reference rules are given that may frequently be applied to advantage. Some of them are culled from the body of this work, but many are rules of averages, and a few are only applicable under certain conditions. For example, the quantity given to locate the shoulder point will apply only with average suppressions that are taken out in the usual way. Different rules emphasize the same proportions in unequal degrees to suit different conditions. In short, they do not all apply to all classes and all conditions with equal accuracy. They are here to select from as the reader may find need for them. They are not laws that cannot be disobeyed. Any of the following rules will be found practically accurate. SCYE DEPTH. ^breast plus 2,1 inches. The normal back width plus 2 inches. BACK WIDTHS. I blade net plus if inch. Full blade on scale of -| less J^. f full blade less -^ plus i:^ inch (more or less). One-third of 3^ inches more than one-half breast. Full blade on scale of two-thikds less i inch. 5- breast plus 3 inches. LOWER SHOULDER. One-half breast plus 7^ inches. No rule can be given for the upper shoulder, as results depend largely on the slope or squareness of the shoulder. THE BLADE. The number gained by adding 3^ inches to one-half full breast, used on the halves plus if inch gives the blade. ^ breast plus 3^ inches. One-third full breast, for the smaller sizes only. ^ breast on the halves plus 2 inches gives the blade as taken. Make usual additions. SLEEVE LENGTHS. Outside length. Full height less 2\ inches, divided by 2. Outside length. Half height less i| inch. UNDERARM LENGTHS. \ height plus i^ inch. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 139 INSEAM LENGTHS FOR TROUSERS. Norinal. Total height less 4 inches, divided by 2. Normal. Half-height less 2 inches. Corpulent. (Approximate) 3 inches less than \ height plus \ inch for each inch the waist has gained above the normal. Slender, i inch less than \ height. General. (Approximate) 3 inches less than \ height plus \ inch for each inch the waist is less than seat. When the waist is larger than the seat, deduct \ inch from the length for each inch it exceeds the seat. WAIST RISE FOR TROUSERS. Normal : \ inseam length less 5^ inches, \ height less 6| inches. \ seat. Corpulent : ^ height less 6f inches plus ^ inch for each inch the waist gains above the normal. General : \ height, full seat and full waist, divided by 11. One section height plus 3 inches. Add \ for each inch the waist is larger, or deduct \ inch for each inch the waist is smaller than the waist. LENGTHS. Natural waist, full scye depth plus 'j\ inches. Natural xvaist, \ breast plus 1 1 inches. Natural waist, from the breast line down \ breast plus 4f inches. Scye depth, from breast line up \ breast plus 3^ inches. Length to seat, \ breast and \ breast plus 14^ inches. Length to seat, \ breast plus 19 inches. Sack length, a stationary quantity, say 3^ inches, added to the vest length. Sack length, \ breast and \ breast plus 19 inches. Sack lejigth, one-half breast plus 10 inches, more or less. Cutaway letigth, \ breast plus \ height plus 10 inches. Vest length, \ height plus \ breast. WIDTHS. Breast sizes : — The normal blade (as taken) plus i| inch plus ^ breast on the halves gives one-half full breast plus 3^ inch addition. Back width, | breast plus 3 inches. Scye width, \ breast plus \ inch. Blade, \ breast plus 3^ inches. Front shoulder, \ breast plus 3I inches. Over shoulder, f breast plus 5^ inches. Collar size, (men) \ breast plus 6 inches. Collar size, (women) \ bust plus 6 inches. K7iee size for trousers, \ height plus \ seat less 7 inches. Bottom width for trousers, ^ knee plus 7 inches. 140 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. SHOULDER POINT. Depth of scye (2^ inches suppression) plus 6 inches from the top of back center seam. f breast plus 3^ inches from the back center line. Twice the width of back plus ^ inch, if the suppression is 2^ inches. The shoulder slope added in front of the front of scye line. MISCELLANEOUS. Hip pockets : — f natural waist length down from the breast line. \ and \ are equal to \ on the square, f and \ are equal to one-half of the full breast or waist. \ and \ are f on the square. \ and yig- are \ on the square. ■ \ and -jlj- is \ on the square. Double thigh averages 2 inches less than \ seat. Single thigh averages 2\ inches more than one-half seat. To APPROXIMATE THE AMOUNT OF GOODS NEEDED BY THE DIMENSIONS OF THE PATTERNS, take the total of : — Inseam length of trousers, outside length of sleeve, vest length and waist circumference, for goods 28 inches wide. Reduce -^^ yard for each inch the material is wider than 28 inches, and increase y^g- yard for each inch the material is narrower than 28 inches. FORMULA FOR FINDING THE SHORT MEASURES. Allowance for making included. Scye depth, \ breast plus 3^ inches. Blade, twice the scye depth on the scale of two-thirds. Front shoulder, \ inch more than the blade. Over shoulder, twice the scye depth less i inch. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. HI met. 140 CARLSTROMS PROPORTIONS. Ml CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 141 THE SCALES. T^HE scales that accompany this book are self-explanatory. As they are derived from counter-balancing height and width quantities, a flexibility is gained that will approximately meet all proportionate requirements of heights and widths. HOW TO USE THE SCALES. Depth of Scye. — From the height size on Scale A to the breast size on Scale B plus 5 inches. EXAMPLE. Breast, 36 inches. Height, 5 feet 8 inches. Place the 5-inch point of a square or tape on the 5-feet-8-inch point of Scale A and find the quantity falling on the breast size required. This includes all additions for making and ease. The Blade. — As the blade is only a width quantity the height is not used. To find the blade corresponding to any breast size place the lo-inch point of a square or tape at the arrow point. The quantity that falls on the breast size required is the blade with additions for making and ease included. The Front Shoulder or Strap. — Place the lo-inch point of a square or tape on the height quantity required on Scale A and find the quantity falling on the breast size required on Scale B. The additions are included. The Over Shoulder. — Place the lo-inch point of a square or tape on the height quantity required on Scale A and find the quantity falling on the breast size required on Scale B. All additions are included. The Upper Shoulder. — Place the 20-inch point of a square or tape on the height quantity required on Scale A and find the quantity falling on the breast size required on Scale B. This gives the measure net. The Lower Shoulder. — As the lower shoulder is only a width quantity the height is not used. Apply the 20-inch point of the square or tape at the arrow point and find the quantity falling on the breast size required. This gives the measure net. The additions given may be increased or decreased to suit any requirement met. I'S 5 4 52 50 48 46 U A? Afl 38 36 34 32 30 ^-^i% of^cye ■^2468io£248 B ~ I y9^^/» Height to Width Points p/us 10 inches. I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 lis I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 llll'lll'lllll'll'll'llll B 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 12 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ID II ^ I 2 3 4 5 6 7 I ' I // Qi tj ^ I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ID II .X. I ^ J t 3 '° Upperonouuier \ i m i i i i i i i i i i i il I I, JjL lililiiilililil!lllll''''''''''i'''i''lil From Height to Width Points p/us 20 inches. 54 53 52 51 50 49 J I L 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 Lowier Shoulder From //rr tw /o '^ije reauirec/ p/us 20 inc/ies. 142 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. CONFIRMATORY INVESTIGATIONS. T^HE aim of this volume has been to give a method that would stand the test of practical application. To this end all else has been subordinated. As a final test, and at a fitting time, shortly after the completion of the fore- going, it was my privilege to examine the results of one of the most extensive researches ever made along this line, conducted by J. Gardner Smith, M. D., dur- ing the physical examinations of 6,000 men at the Young Men's Institute branch (from 1885 to 1888) and at the Harlem Branch of the Y. M. C. A. (i888to 1889), both of New York City. These examinations were made under the most favorable conditions and went into all possible details, such as dimensions in various postures, girths of extremities, as well as the trunks and the relative lengths of trunks and extremi- ties, as well as tests to determine the activity of the organs. While this data threw side lights on the subject in hand, the heights, widths and weights were, in particular, pertinent to the study of tailors' proportions. As the doctor's work was all done from the nude it pulled the averages down in pro- portion ; but when allowance is made for clothing (which is necessary for our pur- pose, as the tailors' model is clothed), it approximates so nearly to the experiments which furnished the basis for this work that it can be called identical. This was only to be expected, because measures are measures. The systematic taking of thousands of measurements of heights, weights and sectional measurements for the express purpose of furnishing a foundation for this work, and the counter-checking by the measurements referred to above, give a working basis that the critics of this book should show an equal of before their criticisms are conclusive. This is not said to forestall honest criticism, as honest criticism will be welcomed by the author ; but unfortunately too many critics do not fully understand the subject they attack. Some men look their wisest when they deliver themselves of negative opinions. They stand ever ready to take advantage of anything that enables them to take on the semblance of wisdom. On subjects of which they most need information they are particularly free with their condemnatory opinions. If they will give the principles and rules laid down in this work a fair trial in practice, the result will satisfy them that the author's work has not been in vain. PART 11. BOYS' PROPORTIONS. 144 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. PROPORTIONS FOR BOYS. T^HE original purpose of this book was to give a method for determining the quantities dealt with in constructing patterns for men's garments only by the proportions of heights and widths. The first part, just concluded, has amply covered this field; but actuated by a desire to give "good measure" we give a brief summary of boys' proportions in the tables to follow under this heading. While the elaborate experiments conducted to gain the results of the first part have not been repeated in full for the subject in hand, yet experiments that would be con- sidered elaborate but for the comparison with the foregoing have given a basis for what will prove a fairly satisfactory explanation of the development of boys from 4 to 15 years of age. Strict adherence to anatomical principles has not been aimed at, but like euphony in speech where rules of grammar are sometimes set aside when they impede harmonious expression, so the quantities used to gain the working power for children's, boys' and youths' proportions have been laid down on the lines of the preceding rules for adults. The octaval division, while not actual in the smaller sizes, gives working quantities as near as do the anatomical quantities proper. For instance, a child 6 months old is, normally, only 4 heads tall ; at the age of one year he is 4^ heads ; at the age of 4 years he is 5 heads ; at 6 he is 6 heads, and at 14 he is 7 heads. Though his head is disproportionately large at birth and gradually diminishes as he increases in height, his waist is the center of his height and his finger tips reach to the same point at his thigh, gener- ally speaking, at all of the periods of his development. This makes the octaval system an applicable quantity for use in considering the measurements of children. With the general understanding that we already have, the following tables and explanations will be easily understood. The author's aim has not been to make this ^AAork the most perfect but the most useful U6 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. TABLE 59. Line i, ages consecutively from 7 to 15 years. Line 2, average heights in accordance with average developnaent of boys at these ages. It will be noted that the heights given indicate slow growth in the smaller sizes, an increased growth in the intermediate and a more rapid growth in the larger sizes, which will be found on investigation to correspond with the actual development of the normal boy. Line 3, the heights in inches. Line 4, the half-heights in inches. Line 5, the quarter-heights in inches, and also the natural waist. Line 6, one-eighth heights. Line 7, the breast sizes corresponding to the ages and the heights contained in Lines i and 2, respectively. Line 8, approximately correct waist sizes, by holding them equal to the breast during the slow growth period (as per first three lines to the left), then increasing \ inch to each size during the increased growth period (as per the three center lines), and increasing f inch in the three columns to the right. Line 9, the depths of scye by \ of the half-breast and \ of the height on the 4ths of the square plus f inch. Line 10, the blades, by \ breast plus \ breast plus \ breast. Line 11, the front-shoulder measures, gained by \ breast and \ of the one- fourth height plus \\ inch. Line 12, the over-shoulder measures, gained by | breast plus the half height on the 8ths of the square plus if inches. Line 13, the full length of coats, gained by adding 2\ inches to the seat length. The seat length is three-eighths of the height, or three times the quantity in Line 6. The 2\ inches addition may be more or less. Line 14, the sleeve lengths gained as in Table 34, except that the allowance for outside measurement is 2 inches instead of 3, that only 5 inches is allowed for angles, and that the addition from the wrist to the full length is \ inch less than in that table. We therefore gain the length as follows : The height as per Line 3 plus 2 inches, added for the amount the outstretched arms are longer than the total height, plus 5 inches added for outside measurement. Divide by 2 to gain the amount from the center of the back to the finger tips. Deduct \ height (as per Line 6) to the wrist. Add i inch to gain the length to the hand and then add an additional i inch for seams. Line 15, the vest lengths from \ breast and \ height. Neck sizes may be gained by \ breast plus 6 inches. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 147 TABLE 69. Line i Ages 7 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 151 .. , 3 ft, 8 in.' 3 ft, gin. 3 ft. 10 in. 4 ft, 4 ft. 2 in. 4 ft. 4 in, 4 ft, Tin, 4 ft, 10 in. 5 It. linl " 3 44 45 46 48 50 52 55 58 6( " 4 22 22^2 23 24 25 26 27^2 29 30'/2 " 5 Fourth-heights in inches 1 1 lll^ ll'/2 12 12^2 13 13^4 l4'/2 15/4 " 6 Eighth-heights in inches ... . ,y^ 5^8 1% 6 %% g/2 6^8 7/4 I'k " 7 Breast sizes 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32* '■ 8 Waist sizes 24 ?5" 2fi 26'/2 27 27'/2 28 28^4 29'/2 " 9 Scye depth 6^2 8^8 6^8 7 7^8 7^8 778 8/4 1% " lO Blade S'/2 8^8 9% 9'/2 9^8 10/4 10^8 II \\% " 11 Front-shoulder 9 9/4 9/2 %\ 10/8 10^8 II iiH \\% '■ 12 Over-shoulder 12^8 \1% 13^8 \ili 14 l4'/2 15^8 l5'/2 1578 " 13 Full lengths of sacks 19 19% \i/A 20'/2 21^4 22 23^8 24/4 25K "' 14 Sleeve lengths 27 ??y8 lik ii/i 24^ 25 2fi/8 27/4 28^^ ■■ '5 Vest lengths 17 17/2 18 \ik l9'/2 20)4 21}^ 22X y 148 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. BOY'S TROUSERS. T^HOUGH full length trousers are not in frequent use in the smaller sizes herein contained, yet we give the quantities for all sizes required for the guidance of those who wish to make them, to illustrate juvenile development, and to serve as a basis for breeches, which are commonly worn at these ages and which will be considered in the following table : TABLE 60. Line i, ages as per Table 58. Line 2, corresponding heights. Line 3, heights reduced to inches. Line 4, half-heights in inches. Line 5, breast sizes. Line 6, waist sizes as per Table 59. '• Line 7, corresponding seat sizes. Line 8, inseam lengths, which are 2 inches less than the half-height. Line 9, rise, gained from \ the total height plus \\ inch. Line 10, outside seam, gained by adding the contents of lines 8 and 9. Line 1 1, basis for knee sizes, gained from \ height plus \ seat less 7 inches. Line 12 the bottom, composed of half-knee plus 4 inches up to 12 years, 5 inches for 12 years, 6 inches for 13 years and 7 inches for 14 years and larger sizes. As the average boy's development is not equal each year, the height and width quantities do not increase equally, and the length increase is relatively unevenly. Should an evenly increasing inseam length be desired, i inch may be added to each size, beginning as per the table, with 19^ up to the 5feet-3-inch height where 29^ is given, above which point only \ inch is added to each size. Such a method is not according to ordinary development, but may be preferred by some. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 149 TABLE 60. 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 „ 2 Heights in feet and inches 3 ft. Tin. 3tt. Sin. 3tt. 9 in. 3 ft. 10 in. 411. 4 ft, 2 in. 4 ft. 4 In. 4tt. Tin. 4tt. 10 in. btt. lin. btt. 3 In. btt. 4 In. bit, 5 in. 3 Heights in inches 43 44 45 46 48 50 52 55 58 61 63 64 65 ■' 4 Half-heights in inches 2l'/2 22 22'/2 23 24 25 26 27/2 29 30/2 31/2 32 32/2 " 5 Breast sizes 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 " 6 Waist sizes 23 24 25 26 26^2 27 27/2 28 28^4 29'/z 30/4 31 31% ■■ 7 Seat sizes 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 ■' 8 Inseam lengths lfl/2 20 20/2 21 22 23 24 25/2 27 28/4 29'/2 30 30'^^ " 9 Waist rise 678 7 7^8 7/4 7^ 1% 8/8 8/2 i% 9 9% 9/2 9% " lO Outside seams _ . 26% 27 27^8 28/4 29'/J 30^4 32^8 34 ifi 38^ 38/^8 39/2 40/8 •• 1 1 Bases for knee sizes 9^4 10^4 loK 11/4 12 I2^i l3'/2 14/2 15^ 16% 17/4 17% 18'/4 " 12 Bases for bottom widths 8^8 9^8 9% 9^4 10 10^8 11^4 13^4 I4^i 15% ia% 1578 1678 150 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. BOY'S BREECHES. r\IMENSTONS for breeches for boys may be gained on the same general plan as for trousers ; but as breeches are worn before trousers we begin them from smaller ages and sizes as below : TABLE 61. Line i, the ages. Line 2, the heights. Line 3, the half-heights in inches. Line 4, the seat sizes. Line 5, the waist sizes. Line 6, the inseams, which are gained by one-half of the trousers lengths (as given in Line 8 of the preceding table) less \\ inch. Line 7, the rise, which may be gained exactly as per Line 9 of Table 59 ; but in this table we have made it \ inch less on account of breeches being worn with- out suspenders and therefore are not held up as high as the trousers. Line 8, the outseams. This gives a fair idea of proportions for boys. The general knowledge we have already gained will enable us better to understand them than if the preced- ing proportions had not been studied before taking up those of boys. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 151 TABIiB 61. Line I Ages 4 5 6 1 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 „ 3 Heights in feet and inches 3tt. bin, 3 ft, 6 in, 3 It. Tin. 3 ft. Bin. 3 ft. 9 in. 3 ft. 10 in. 4 ft. 4 ft. 2 in. 4 ft. 4 in. 4 ft. 7 In. 4 ft. 10 in. bft. fin. " 3 Half-heights in inches 20^2 21 2l'/2 22 22/2 23 24 25 26 27'/2 29 30!^ " 4 Waist sizes 21 22 23 24 25 26 26'/2 27 27/2 28 2i% 29/2 " 5 Seat sizes 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 " 6 Inseam lengths I'i 8 8/4 8'/2 8^i 9 9/2 10 10/2 11/4 12 13 9 22 .. 7 Waist rise 6 ye e/2 6^8 6^4 6^8 7 7/4 7/2 7/8 8/4 8/2 " 8 Outseam lengths 14/8 l4'/2 m 15/4 15^8 16 16^ 17^ 18^8 19/2 20^ PART 111. WOMEN'S PROPORTIONS, 154 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. PROPORTIONS FOR WOMAN'S GARMENTS. T^O go as minutely into all of the component parts of the proportions of women's measurements as we have gone into men's, would make another volume necessary. This we shall not do for two reasons. First, because the study of the foregoing rules and tables has made us, in a general way, familiar with propor- tions, and we are, therefore, approaching the explanations to follow with a general understanding of their value. Secondly, it was not the original purpose to touch upon women's proportions in this volume ; but they have been added at an expense and an amount of labor apparently disproportionate to the result, merely to give a heaping measure to the original plan. The rules governing these proportions have been determined from the classic statues and an average based on the measures of many individuals. Both have furnished their quota toward the accompanying results ; the former toward a working principle and the latter for the application of that principle. Much interesting detail, such as the general proportions, which are perhaps more adapted to art than to tailoring, has been left out in order not to weight the subject down with anything superfluous. Those who would complicate knowl- edge ^A^ould build a crooked road in- stead of a straight one 156 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. TABLE 62. Line I, the average heights in feet and inches. Line 2, the same heights reduced to inches. Line 3, the half-heights in inches. Line 4 would be the half-heights in inches, if the heights continued to increase at the same rate above the 5 feet 10 inch height as they do below it. Line 5, the first units and fractions of Line 3 up to the 5-feet-io-inch height and of Line 4 above it. Line 6, the one-fourth-heights of the height quantities given in Lines i and 2. Line 7, the first units and fractions of the figures in Line 6. Line 8, one-eighth-heights of the heights given in Lines i and 2. Line 9, additions that may be used to gain an increasing breast quantity for the smaller sizes, as breast and bust become nearer equal in those sizes. The above quantities have been established as working quantities toward the application of widths to follow. Line 10, the breast sizes by adding Lines 3, 5 and 9. Line 11, the bust sizes from 32 to 50, corresponding to the heights given above. Line 12, the waist sizes, which are gained by adding Lines 6 and 7, dividing by 2, and deducting the remainder from Line 11. The result will be the waist sizes given in Line 12. Example : — The figures in Lines 6 and 7 under the 5 feet 8 inch height are, respectively, 17 and 7, which when added make 24, and leave 12 when divided by 2. Deduct the 12 from 40 in Line 11, leaving 28, as per Line 12. LiJie 13, the hip sizes as taken 5 inches below the waist. They are gained by adding Lines 7 and 11. Lifie 14, the depths of scye : \ breast on the square plus \ height on the fourths of the square plus ^ inch. Line 15, the blades, which are gained from \ and \ bust. Line 16, the front shoulders, which are J^ of the fourth height plus ^ bust plus f inch. Line 17, the over-shoulder measures: f bust on the square plus \ of one- fourth height on the square plus i inch. Line 18, neck sizes, from \ breast plus 6 inches. Line 19, the cuff sizes from ^ bust and ^ waisr. Line 20, the elbow widths (quantities that will prove flexible when flesh is taken on), gained by \ bust and | waist. Line 21, skirt lengths corresponding to the heights and widths given. Lzne 22, skirt lengths when the waist increases. These lengths give the key for skirt lengths for corpulent figures, i inch has been added to the length of the normal skirt for each inch that the waist has gained on the bust from a standard of 12 inches less waist than the bust. This increased length is required to go over the curve, instead of a straight line, when flesh is taken on, and as the curved line is always the longer, the length thus taken up must be provided for. Additional gain means additional length to be provided, and the same basis as given above may be used as occasion demands. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 157 u '■i 'S S-j ^' ON - : ^ z » o VO : ^ o\ v-ri +- J 3' n o ■3 c_ ID 3 1 3- o > cr o' o £• B- > a" o' c 3! y. n O 3- O c_ c 3 V c O 3 3- O C_ Q. P C s O- n O 3- O '^ n X ■5' ^ cd 5 > g. 5' 3 M •n 3- 3- 3- Crq' 3- o o 3 a 5' 3 3 o r 3 C -t 3- 3- n 3 c 3^ r 5' 4- X 3" "a X 3- ffq' 3- 5' 3' 3- X 3- 3' 3" 3" eg] 3 a. 3" 3- ^ ^ C!0\ oo = CO --I NO COi NO & .:^ — .1 ear* e& co s. CJ1 CO oo^ 1 ^ E^ CO co\ ^^\ CO CO ^Jl \^ ^ nS^ :: g^ — CJl bo ^ --J_ ^^ ^ S s? "~' ^ SO -P» CO N>\ \co ro\ - - " NO »^o tn -p. ^ —J ^- ^^^ cr> fc^ OO^ -p* en C*3 oo^ ^ Scf eS ro^ s CO CO C*i CJl ■»=> Se "In Oo\ ic iS CJ^ ^ CO -p* ^=^ OS o. ^ NO 3 NO " -J -p»_ ^ ^ \w s ^ CXI -ij ^ oo^ ^ CTJ NO 3 CO en tn CJl -(=> ^ oo ^ ^ oo\ ^\ -J -p» -p»_ l-O ~ s^; S^ ^, CO 3 Co cr> CT5CJ1 Co p^ ^. \C*) ~~'_ -p» Co CO CO P^ ^^\ co_ :j CO —J —J CJl =■=5 CO i-o\ g-. ^^ oo\ —4 £: s -p^ ~ ^ — 1 -^ ■P* ^ Co -p> s CO CJl f. *» CX3 oo^ fNJ^^ ^^ ^ ■p:> CO 03 ^^ — J_ ::P* »nJ~ — ■« ^^ s 00 CJl s CO o^ — 1 i: OT^ -p» NO S -p» i:! nS\ tM\ en - ^ ^ =■=: :^ oo^ ^^ 5; Cji3 NO oo\ en CO -P» -p> ^^ \to ^\ §^ CO -0 co^ «?CJl -p>. -pi i\>\ isa^ N3\ ^^\ NO ^^\ ^ B::: :& -p» \«^ ^ ^6^ 0, CT> 'CO S — ^: :& 1^^ CJ1 CO ^ ^ ^ CO OT" en ^ CJi -p» s? TO^ ^^. ^^ Co -p»_ N3\ — !!I -p> en ° — 1 ^&~^ oo oo^ en ^ s :& ^r =^ — 1 —J CO -p» 00 03 CJl -P> ^^^^ ^^, ^ ^ -P» :::iVi s. :£; 4=* CJi ^^ 0&*' ^ S^ CO Co uii CJl *» ^ r\3\ it — J_, ^ -p» rva\, CO s ^ OQ>^. p^ ^ 0= ca g_ —J ICJl *» ^ i. ^ OT^ fso^^i ^CJ. oS ' en Oo\ -p» ^ °°cj. ^\ f&^ CO Co uf ' CJl -Fa. — o= OO^^ ^ ^ ^ cn CJl 158 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. PROPORTIONS FOR GIRLS. T^HIS table is supplementary to the preceding table for adults and might have been placed to the left of it, thereby making the two tables continuous. It is, however, separated from the larger in order to divide them into the classes to which each naturally belongs. The quantities have, in the main, been o-ained as explained in Table 62, but some deviations have been made better to carry out the average gained from the measures taken of this class of forms. TABLE 63. Line i, the ages. Line 2, the heights in feet and inches. As growth is not even at the ages dealt with, the heights are given on the basis of average development, therefore not consecutively. Line 3, the heights reduced to inches. Line 4, the half-heights in inches. Line 5, the one-fourth heights in inches. Line 6, the first units of the one-fourth heights in Line 4. Line 7, one section, or ^ of the heights. Line 8, the chest sizes consecutively from 24, including 31. Line 9, the waist sizes, which may be gained by deducting the first unit and fractions, as per Line 6, from the half-heights of Line 4, but we have held them at an even number, which seems to be a fair average. Line 10, the hip sizes, gained by adding Lines 6 and 8. Lines 11, 12, 13 and 14 may be gained exactly as explained for Lines 14, 15, 16 and 17 of the previous table, but as the tendency is toward a too rapid decrease on account of the decrease of the quantities from which they are gained, we have given a slight allowance above those quantities, thereby insuring more ease. Line 15, the neck sizes, gained from \ chest plus 6 inches. Line 16, the cuff widths, gained from \ chest and \ waist. Line i 7, the elbow widths, gained from \ chest plus \ waist. Line 18, short skirt lengths, gained from three sections of height plus i inch. A long skirt length can be gained as explained for Line 2 1 of the preceding table. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 159 TABIiE 63. Line I The ages 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 13 " 2 3 ft. 8 In. 3 ft. 9 In, 3 ft. 10 In, 4 ft, 4 ft, 2 In, 4 ft, 5 in. 4 ft. Bin. 4 ft, OIn, " 3 Heights in inches 44 45 46 48 50 53 56 58 " 4 Half-heights in inches 22 22/2 23 24 25 2G/2 28 29 " 5 Fourth-heights in inches II liJi 11/2 12 12/2 13/4 14 l4'/2 ■• 6 First unit of Line 5 1 1/4 1/2 2 2/2 i% 4 4/2 " 7 Eighth-heights, or one section 5'/2 5^8 5^i & 6% 6^8 7 7/4 ■■ 8 Chest sizes . 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 " lO Hip sizes 25 26/4 27'/2 29 30'/2 32/4 34 35/2 Depth of scye .... 6'^ e'/s ^\ G^ A 6^8 i'i 6^ Blade 7 7% 1% t7, 8/8 i% 8^/4 9 ., ,3 8% ^'A 8% 9/8 9% 9/2 il 9^8 II ^e 11% 12/8 12/2 I2?'8 l3'/4 \l% 14 " 15 Neck sizes 1? 12/4 l2'/2 I2^i 13 13^^ \i/z 13^4 •■ 16 Cuff sizes 5^2 1% 5^i 5^8 6 g/b 6/4 A " '7 Elbow widths W/2 8^4 9 9/4 9/2 9^4 10 IO'/4 •• iS Short skirt lengths \lV2 17^8 I8/4 19 20/2 1\% 22 22S 160 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. SLEEVE LENGTHS FOR WOMEN. S LEEVES for women are handled much the same as for men. Some differences occur, however, as, for instance, instead of the outstretched arms exceeding the height, as for men, they are equal in women. This furnishes a new basis to figure from. The angle allowance is 5^ inches, instead of 6 inches for men. In other words, the outstretched arms plus 5^ inches give the total length to the finger tips. From this deduct J height, to find the length to just above the wrist, add to this ij inch to reach from the wrist to the hand and then add f inch for the three seams encountered ; the total is the full length of the sleeve. The reading of the explanations of Table 34 before applying the quantities just given, will aid in understanding the detail workings of the following table : TABLE 64. Line i, the heights. Line 2, bust sizes corresponding. Line 3, the outside sleeve lengths by heights. Line 4, normal underarm lengths gained from two sections of height plus I inch. CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 161 ^ t>^ oj en ^OO OJ — cn CT5_ §:" 4=» — ^ ^&\ S? CjlS CJI ^ hoR ^ =" F= ^^ —J — !!l! r\5\ CO ~ cn cji ic! ^ OO — !i! CO -P» CD C^ ^ -P» CO CJI r>o\ 5=? s S CJI P^ CO -p» ^CJl ^ -p- 4^ CO CJI i- S So -pk CO CJI i. ^ :S: mTI CJI ^ ^ -F* — 1 CJI 4=*- K^ CJI ^ ^^\ c=> ^'rt 162 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. SLEEVE LENGTHS FOR GIRLS. jLEEVES for girls are in every way the same as explained in the previous table, except that the addition from the wrist to the hand is only f inch. TABLE 65. Line i Heights in feet and inches 3 It. RIn. 3 ft. 9 in. 3 ft. 10 in. 4 ft. 4fl. 2 In, 411. 5 In. 4 ft. 8 in. 4 ft. 10 in. " 2 Chest sizes 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 " 3 Outseam lengths 20'/2 n'i 21/4 22 22^8 23^8 25 2^4 " 4 Underarm lengths IL. \iA l2'/2 IL, 13^4 14^ 15 15/2 Line i, the heights. Line 2, the chest sizes corresponding. Line 3, the outside lengths as explained. Line 4, the underarm lengths as explained in the previous table. THE END I lE 8e 6£ W "n 1 — I — r oe IE u ee tE 5£ 9£ i -sai|3ui Q|, f/f/a sj apvjg V" ^'"'. Blade From ^rrow fo ^ije re^uiret/ p/us 7p/hcAej-i , 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34 32 30 I/epfh ofScye ^o/w Height to Width Points/?^/^ Sinches. 2 4 6 B 10 g 2 4 6 B /I 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 48 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 Front SllOule/er 54 ^-m. 5I 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 4 1 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 From Height to Width Points p/us 10 inches. ; M 8 » 10 » 1 4 S i 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 Over Sh oulcfer From ^e'\^\\\ toWidtW Points p/us, 10 inches. a I ? 3 4 5 6 7 B 9 10 llS I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 lllllllllllllllll /I 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 % ' Iki 34 33 32 31 30 // cz _ ../^_ „ :; I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 il :; i 2 3 4 5 6 7 I I I I I Upper Shoulc/er iWl ■ ^^^"^ Height to Width Points p/us 20 inches. il'lll'llll'llllllllillllllllll ili 54 53 52 51 50 49 47 46 45 44 43 42 I' 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 Lower I 3houldet From ^rrow ^'o «^{f ^ reauired p/ui> 20 inc/ies . Duplicate of scales contained in " Carlstrom's Proportions" (copyrighted). Issued to make it unnecessary to removt the scales from the book. If it is decided to do away with the additions, cut out each set of scales and paste them as much further apart as the*, litions called for on the scales. i