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 BY H. BURCHSTEAD SKINNEIl, M. D. 
 
 B O S T O N. 
 
Class ^^Q' 
 Book L^^ 
 
*-t? 
 
Columbia Pear. 
 
 L. 
 
THK 
 
 AMERICAN PEIZE-BOOK: 
 
 A WORK ADAPTED TO THE WANTS OF ALL 
 
 TRADES AND PROFESSIONS, 
 
 FROM THE 
 
 HUMBLEST MECHANIC 
 
 TO THE 
 
 GENTLEMAN OF FORTUNE; 
 
 BUT PARTICULARLY TH) 
 
 rARMF.R AND GARDKNKR, 
 FRUIT-GROWER AND FLORIST, 
 BIRD-FANCIEK, CATTLE AND HORSE- 
 DOCTOR, 
 FOWL-BREEDER AND BEE-RAISER, 
 PHYSICIAN AND APOTHECARV, 
 PERFUMER AND CONFECTIONER, 
 
 MEDICAL AND CULINARY MFP.BALIST, 
 SICK MAN AND THE HEALTH V, 
 RICH MAN AND THE POOR, 
 BUSINESS MAN AND MAS OF KO 
 
 BUSINESS, 
 MERCHANT AND LAWYER, 
 MINISTER AND LAYMAN; 
 
 AND TO EVERY DEPARTMENT OF THE HOUSEKEEPEIi, 
 ^ FROM THE 
 
 WASHER-WOMAN AND COOK IN THE KITCHEN, 
 
 TO THE 
 
 LADY IN THE PARLOR. 
 
 WITH MANY BEAUTIFUL ENGRAVINaS. 
 
 By H BURCHSTEAD SKINNER, M. D. 
 
 BOSTON. 
 1853. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S")3, by 
 
 H. B. Skinnkr, 
 
 in the Clark's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetta. 
 
 I^OTICE TO PUBLISHERS. 
 
 The author takes this method to inform publishers and all 
 others, that any infringement upon the copyright of this book 
 will be prosecuted to the extent of the law. 
 
 This notice is given because, heretofore, several unprincipled 
 fellows in Boston, New York, and elsewhere, have entered into 
 our labors by publishing our works. As there is a law to reach 
 these Thieves and Rohbers, we are resolved hereafter to ferret 
 them out from their dens of concealment, and to piuiish them as 
 they deserve for their wicked presumption. 
 
 H. B. S. 
 
 Cambridge: 
 stereotyped by metcalf and company, 
 
 PRlNlEr.S TO THE liNlVEESITV. 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 The object had in view in the preparation of this work, was 
 to bring together, in a cheap forni, a vast amount of practical 
 information adapted to the wants of everyday life. 
 
 There are elaborate works upon almost every subject, but 
 they are mostly so expensive as to be beyond the means of the 
 common people, and they are generally of so scientific a charac- 
 ter as entirely to defeat the object intended, except so far as re- 
 lates to literary men. 
 
 In this work we have so epitomized and condensed each sub- 
 ject, as distinctly to present to the mind at a glance the '* cream 
 of the matter^ This small volume is, therefore, a library in 
 itself, and contains in a far more practical form the substance of 
 what is spread out in many large and expensive works. 
 
 As we write for the common people, we have avoided the use 
 of all technical terms, as far as possible, and have rendered each 
 subject so familiar as to range within the comprehension of all. 
 
 We send forth this little book, in the firm belief that it will 
 work its own way to popular favor. If we are doomed to disap- 
 pointment we, shall not repine, as we have already enjoyed a 
 large amount of the public patronage on our former domestic 
 publications. Should it attain that destiny which we have 
 marked out for it, we shall find our debt of gratitude to the 
 public still further enhanced, and it may- lead us to " try our 
 hand again^ 
 
 • H. B. S. 
 
 "Waltham, Jari}*a7^ 5, 1853 
 
THE 
 
 AMERICAN PRIZE-BOOK, 
 
 CHAPTER 1. 
 
 AORICVIiTURAIi DEPARTMENT: OR, PARMER'S VADE 
 MECUM. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 OPEN FIELD CROPS, &C. 
 
 Soils. — A farmer should be well informed of the nature of 
 soils, and of the various plants adapted to them. Some useful 
 plants flourish best in what are called poor lands ; and if cultiva- 
 tors were perfectly acquainted with the art of adapting planis to 
 soils, much manure might be saved, which is now wasted by 
 injudicious application. 
 
 All sands are hot and diy ; all clays, cold and wet ; and 
 therefore the manuring sandy lands with clay, or clay lands 
 with sand, is best for grain and pulse. But it is not the natural 
 soil only that the farmer ought to consider, but the depth of it, 
 and. what lies immediately underneath it. For if the richest soil 
 is only seven or eight inches deep, and lies on a cold, wet clay or 
 stone, it will not be so fruitful as leaner soils that lie on a better 
 under-stratum. Gravel is, j>erhaps, the best under-stratum to 
 make the land prolific. 
 
 The best loams and natural earths are of a brio-ht brown 
 or hazel color. Dark gray, and russet moulds are accounted 
 the next best. The worst of all are the light and dark ash- 
 colored. 
 
 A good method of improving soils is, to go into the forest and 
 skim the surface of the whole lot ; this, spread upon the surface 
 of old fields, will restore them to their original productiveness, 
 and as often as the fields decline, the schI of the woods will be fit 
 to remove for this purpose. 
 2 
 
14 
 
 All soils, however good, may be impoverished, and even worn 
 out, by successive crops without rest. 
 
 Manure. — No soil will always prove productive without ma- 
 nure. Thoug-h naturally fertile, yet if sojue equivalent for its 
 produce is not returned, it must at length become barren. Some 
 remarks, ihercfore, upon this subject, will not be deenied out of 
 place. 
 
 Liqvid Manure. — Water, in its purof4 slate, retains some- 
 what of the food of plants, and some vegetables will maintain a 
 feeble grov/tli with no other nourishment tlian that afforded by 
 pure air and water ; yet it forjns a very meaure diet for most 
 plants. 
 
 Fresh urine is a very powerful and efiicncious manure, when 
 properly applied ; but if not mixed with solid matter it should be 
 diluted wiih water, as Vnen pure it contains too large a quantity 
 of animal matter to form a proper fiuid nourishment for absorp- 
 tion by the roots of plants. Urine is lessened in value, but its 
 useful qualities are not entirely lost, by putrescence. During 
 putrefaction the greatest part of the soluble animal matter that 
 urine contains is destroyed ; it should, therefore, be used as fresh 
 as possible, with the precaution of diluting it with water or mix- 
 ing it with earth. Putrid urine, however, is a valuable manure. 
 It abounds in ammoniacal salts ; and though less active tlian 
 fresh urine, is very efficacious. 
 
 The urine of one cow in live months, when properly absorbed, 
 furnishes manure of the richest quality and most durable effects, 
 for half an acre of ground. 
 
 Manure for Grass Grounds^ — Top-Dresshtgs^ Sfc. — There 
 is scarcely any question on which farmers are more divided than 
 as to the policy of applying manure as a top-dressing to grass 
 lands in the spring or fall. The reasoning seems to be in favor 
 of spring-dressing, and it is supported by many excellent names. 
 But it ought to be known that intelligent farmers near the metrop- 
 olis most generally dress their lands in autumn, and for so doing 
 they certainly make some show of reason. 
 
 1. Grass lands are less injured by carting over them in the fall 
 than spring. 2. It is a season of greater leisure. 8. The top- 
 dressings alford very great protection to the tender roots of plants 
 during winter. 4. The low temperature of the atmosphere in 
 wintCi checks the process of evaporation. 
 
 Xhe fact that farmers who grow rich by supplying tlie great 
 towns with hay, generally adopt the practice of fall-dressing their 
 grass lands, deserves weighi. 
 
15 
 
 Top-dressing should not be used in the fall for winter grain, 
 because it would be apt to make the young plants come tbi- 
 ward too fast and grow so rank that they would be liable to be 
 winter-killed. Top-dressing for wheat, rye, d:c. should be ap- 
 plied to the growing crop in the spring or early in the summer, 
 when it is suspect(Hl that the land is not rich enough to bring a 
 full crop to perfection. 
 
 Materials for Dressings SfC. — With regard to the materials 
 for dressing your grass grounds, after your garden is stipplied 
 with manure, you may as well cart on to your mowing land all 
 that you can collect from your barn-yards, your stercoraries or 
 dung-heaps, hog-pens, compost-beds, niglit-soil, <%ic. All sorts of 
 dung, however, before being aj)plied to grass land, should he well 
 mixed with loam, satid, or some kind of earth which will imbibe 
 the gas or effluvia of the dung or putrescent manure. 
 
 Unless you have plenty of manure, you had better not apply 
 uny dung to your high, gravelly, or sandy soils, but dress them 
 with plapt^H' of Paris. Uneven grass grounds will not admit of 
 top-dressing to any advantage, on account of the manure's being 
 liable to be washed away. 
 
 Manure from Swine. — Vt^ry valuable manure, with a little 
 attention, may be obtained from swine. Keep and fatten four 
 hogs in a year, confine them in a yard twenty feet square, v.'ith a 
 warm shed attaciied thereto for shelter. Into this yard put the 
 .scrapings of ditche:?, the dirt which is continually collecting in 
 and about the dwelling-house and other buildings, together with 
 the stra^v with wlrich tliey'are littered, frequently clearing it out 
 of their house and granting them a fresh supply. During the 
 summer season, often throw in large quantities of weeds, brakes, 
 and other rubbish that may come to hand, which helps to increase 
 both the quantity and quality of the manure. In this way you 
 may make from twenty-five to thirty loads of manure in a year, 
 which answers a more valuable purpose than that which you take 
 from the stable or barn-yard. 
 
 Ashes. — It has been discovered that, in taking the hay from 
 meadows, the principal cause of exhaustion to the soil is the loss 
 of the potash contained in the hay ; and that this may be readily 
 restored by sowing the meadow with a thick covering of wood- 
 ashes. Some farmers value it as high as fifty cents per bushel, 
 to sow on their grass and corn. 
 
 Barley. — The Soil. — The soil for barley should be such as 
 will grow good turnips, or other green crops, including clovers, 
 
16 
 
 and which embrace the varieties of loams and sands that are not 
 wet, or very dry and poor. 
 
 Barley cannot be cultivated to advantage n})on stiff, heavy, or 
 wet grounds, or on such as are of a cold and tenacious quality. 
 This crop occupies the ground but about three months ; and it is 
 only in a dry, light, mellow soil that its roots can extend with 
 sufficient facility, and supply food necessary to bring the grain to 
 rapid and perfect maturity. 
 
 PreiHous Croj). — Crops that precede this ^rain should be 
 such as leave the ground mellow and fi-ee from weeds ; and for 
 this reason hoed crojis are to be preferred, such as turnips, pota- 
 toes, peas, beans, &i<2,. Small grains should not precede it ; they 
 impoverish the soil, leave it foul, and besides, it is contravening 
 one -of the most salutaiy maxims of husbandry to grow two dry 
 crops in succession. 
 
 Mode of Manuring. — Manure should )iot be applied to the 
 barley, but to tlic preceding crop. The short period that this 
 grain occupies tlie ground does not afford time for the manure to 
 decompose and yield its food to the plants ; and if applied in ex- 
 cess, it causes a too rank vegetation, and the straw lodges before 
 the grain is nictturcil. 
 
 Preparation of the Ground. — Where barley follows a root 
 hoed crop, one ploughing will generally suffice ; but in all cases 
 a complete pulverizaiion of the soil is necessary. The prefera- 
 ble way may be to harrov/ the fallow, plough in the seed with a 
 light furrow, and smooth off with the harrow. 
 
 The Seed, and Sowing. — Thin-skinned, pale, plump seed 
 should be selected. I sow as soon as the ground is sufficiently 
 dry in the spring. The young grain is not hurt by the ordinary 
 frosts of the latter part of April and May. 1 sow from sis' to 
 eight pecks per acre, according to the richness of the soil and the 
 forwardness of the season ; the poorest soil and the latest sowing 
 requiring the most seed. 
 
 Ti?ne and Method of Harvesting. — Barley is known to be 
 ripe by the disappearance of the reddish cast on the ear, or 
 what the English farmers term red roan ; by the ears beginning 
 to droop, and bending themselves round against the stems ; and 
 by the stalks becoming brittle and of a yellowish color. This is 
 the particular period for cutting, as, if suffered to stand longer, the 
 heads break off and the grain wastes with the slightest touch. 
 And it may be cut with the cradle, sickle, or scythe, according 
 to circumstances. If it stands straight, and is not too heavy, 
 
\ 
 
 17 
 
 the cradle is to be prefciTcd ; if heavy or lodged, the sickle or 
 scythe. 
 
 Produce and Product. — The product varies from lifttron to 
 seventeen biishels, according to season and soil ; com})ared with 
 wheat, its product is as two or two and a half to one ; conijiarcd 
 with oats, about equal, provid^jd the soil is ada})ted to tliis grain. 
 The average price of barley is at least two thirds that of wheat. 
 Supposing wheat, then, to bo one dollar and twelve cents the 
 bushel, and the product fifteen bushels per acre, and barley to be 
 seventy-five cents, and tlie product of an acre thirty bushels, and 
 the expense of cultivation equal, the profits of the barley will be 
 nearly as three to two compared with vrheat. Barley, besides, is 
 a less precarious crop, is subject to fewer diseases, and has fewer 
 insect enemies to encounter, than wheat. 
 
 Buckwheat. — Soil. — In light lands this crop may be used 
 to advantage. In this climate it should not be sown till after the 
 middle of May. One bushel is seed enough for an acre, if sown 
 broadcast, as is usual ; but if sown in drills, less than half that 
 quantity is sufficient. - 
 
 Haniesting^ 4*c. — Buckwheat is harvested by mowing, m the 
 manner of barley. After it is mown, it should be several days 
 before it is housed. There is no danger of the seed falling, nor 
 does it suffer much by wet. From its great succulency it is 
 liable to heat in a mow, on which account it is better to put it 
 into small stacks of five or six loads each, than either a large 
 one or in a barn. 
 
 Its Blossoms Food for Bees. — Buckwheat blossoms afford 
 rich food for bees, and are useful as well from the quantity of 
 honey which they enable the bees to make, as the long time they 
 continue without fading or ceasing to be fragrant. 
 
 Manuring. — A bushel of gypsum to the acre, or perhaps less, 
 applied to the ground yearly, will keep rich enough for good crops. 
 
 Oats. — The common oats which are raised I consider the 
 best. My average crop of late years has b.een from forty to fifty 
 bushels per acre, and in one instance sixty-five bushels per acre. 
 
 I make oats principally, and generally speaking, my first crop, 
 in the line of a rotation of crops. I break up the piece intended 
 for this crop in the fall, if possible, and in the spring cross-plough 
 and harrow thoroughly before I sow my grain ; then liarrow 
 again until the turf is well pulverized : then«eow ten bushels of 
 clover-seed chaff per acre and roll it in. As soon as the grain 
 is harvested, and the young clover has received its growth, I 
 2* 
 
18 
 
 plough il in. This clover, with ihe F.tu6ble, is u]x)Ut equal to a 
 conunon dressing of compost manure. In the fall I plough, in 
 Iho spring I cross-plough, after taking from my compost-heap 
 thirty loads per acre, which are carefully spread. The lot then 
 being well harrowed and furrowed, is ready for planting, either 
 with corn, potatoes, or turnips. This is my second crop. For 
 my third crop, I again sow v/heat, peas, flax, oats, &c., and stock 
 ti'.e lot down with herdsgrass and red-top, which I believe make 
 the best of hay. I let the lot remain in grass three years. Thvis 
 I till three years, and mow or pasture three years. My first and 
 third crop is principally oats, 
 
 I have frequently beoi told that oats and corn were veiy im- 
 poverishing crops ; but I find no difiiculty in enriching my land 
 as above stated. Ten years ago my average crop of corn was 
 from thirty to io-rty bushels per acre, but in passing over a lot 
 the second' time, which was managed as above, in the summer of 
 1821, I had the satisfaction of harvesting ninety-six bushels of 
 corn per acre, and received the Society's premium. My other 
 crops have advanced in about the same proportion. 
 
 Harvesting Oats^ 4*c. — In harvesting oats, it is recommended 
 tolriow, instead of reaping them, as soon as they begin to turn 
 yellow. If they are then well dried, the straw v/ill make food 
 for cattle after being threshed, which will be eaten by the animals 
 in preference to tlie best meadow hay. 
 
 Wheat. — Wheat thrives not only in temperate, but in very 
 hot and in ver\' cold countries. It requires a good loamy soil, 
 not too light nor too heavy. Wheat should be sowed the last of 
 August or first of September. If sowed the last week in August, 
 on clay soil, it will generally resist the effect of frost in the win- 
 ter and of insects in the spring. 
 
 Early sowing requires less seed than late, because the plants 
 have more time, and are more apt to spread and throw out a 
 good number of stalks. More seed is required for poor than for 
 rich lands, and rich land early sowed requires the least of any. 
 
 The proportion of seed is about three pecks to the acre, as it 
 is less apt to lodge when sowed thin than otherwise. Wheat 
 more naturally follows clover than any other crop, and a good 
 farmer will be careful in the arrangement of his crop. 
 
 The best method of sowing clover land with wheat is to 
 plough the land ten or fourteen days before you sow it, that 
 the land may have time to get dry, and after rain, to make it 
 dress well. In preparing your seed wheat, the first thing to be 
 
fttrendcij to is, lo clean rt perfectly fVoin every iiijuvious foreign 
 suhsUmcc. 
 
 The lirst pn^priration, therefore, should be to f^ereen, winnow, 
 aufl riddle the grain till perfectly freed from these and other im- 
 proper ingredients. 
 
 W^hen this is tlioroughly accomjjlished, washing and steeping, 
 for the purpose of preventing smut, shouM Uicet attention. The 
 first step in the [)rocesses to be instituted against smut is to run 
 the grain very gcnflf/ through n riddle, wlnni not only the smut 
 balls, but the imperfect grains and the' se«-<ls of weeds, will float, 
 and may be skinnned off at pleasure. 
 
 To prevent the wheat from MTniter-killing, sow the seed under 
 furrow, at least four or five incites deep, in September, in order 
 tliat it may extend its roots, and take a fu*m hold of the soil be- 
 fore the ajjproach of winter, and roll it in the spring, with the 
 box heavily loaded. 
 
 To prevent wheat from mildew, care should be taken to cul- 
 tivate a liardy kind of wheat, to sow it early, to use saline 
 manures, and to consolidate the soil. 
 
 Indian Corn. — Indian corn is a very important crop, and 
 should always ])e regarded by the farmer, where the climate 
 will suit it. 
 
 Soil. — A light, loamy soil is best for this crop, and even if 
 sand greatly predominates it will produce good corn with the help 
 pf manure. Corn will not flourish on lands on which clay is the 
 chief ingredient, and which are therefore stiff and wet. 
 
 Preparation. — Tlie best 'preparation for a corn crop is a 
 clover or other grass lay, well covered with a long manure, re- 
 cently spread, neatly ploughenj, and harrowed lengthwise of the 
 furrow. A roller may preced«^ the harrow with advantage. 
 
 The time of planting must vary in different districts, and in 
 different seasons. The ground should be sufficiently warmed by 
 vernal heat, to cause a speedy germination. Natural vegetation 
 affords the best guide. My rule has generally been to plant be- 
 tween the 20th and 22d of May. 
 
 Preparation of the Seed. — The enemies to be combated 
 are the wire-worm, brown grub, birds, and squirrels. Of these, 
 tlie fli^st and two last prey upon the kernels, and against these 
 tar offers a complete protection. I soak my seed twelve to 
 twenty-four hours in Icot watt^r, in which is dissolved a few ounces 
 of crude saltpetre, and then add (say to eight quarts of seed) half 
 a pint of tju", previously warmed and diluted with a quart of 
 
•20 
 
 warm water. The mass is well stirred, the corn taken out, and 
 as much plaster added as will adhere to the grain. Tliis im- 
 pre<;nales and partially coats the seed with tar. The experience 
 of \eiirs will warrant nie in confidently recommending this as a 
 prn^eclion for the seed. 
 
 Tkc 'inanniT of pUntthig is ordinarily in hills from two and a 
 half to six feet apart, according to the variety of corn, the 
 stre-igth of the soil, and the fancy of the cultivator. The usual 
 distance in my neighborhood is three feet. Some, however, plant 
 in drills of one, two, or three I'ows, by which a greater crop is 
 unquestionably obtain^MJ, though tis<; expense of culture is some- 
 v/h;U increased. 
 
 Ti^.o lirst dressiiig, or after-culture, should be performed as 
 soi.n as th(3 size of the plants will permit, and the best implement 
 to precede; the hoe is the corn-harrow, adapted to the width of 
 the rows. 
 
 Harvesting. — The best method of harvesting is to cut the 
 corn dov/n at the surface of th.e ground when it has become 
 glazed, or hard upon the uutside, and put it immediately in stocks, 
 and wlien suiliciently drifnl, separate the corn and stalks, and 
 make them secine. By this metliod the crop may be secured 
 before the autumnal rains, the value of the fodder is increased, 
 and the ground is cleared in time for a winter crop of wlieat or 
 rj-e. 
 
 The corn cannot be husked too promptly after it is gathered 
 from the field. If permitted to heat, the value of the grain is 
 materially impaired. 
 
 Beans, — Value of Beans. — Beans may be cultivated in drills 
 or in liills. They are a valuable crop, and, with good care, are 
 as profitable as a wheat crop. They leave the soil in good tilth. 
 They ripen early and are V(!ry }>roductive. 
 
 Mode of Flantiiig. — They may be planted in hills or drills, 
 the rows two and a half or three feet apart, according to the 
 strength of the soil, and cultivated like other hoed crops. They 
 may be planted the latter gnd of Mny, or beginning of June, or 
 ulxjut the time of planting Indian corn. Five beans are quite 
 enough to remain in a hill. 
 
 Hog^s dung, mixed witli ashes, is said to be tlie best manure 
 for them ; and it is said to be very injurious to beans to hoo them 
 while the dew is on, or in wet weather. 
 
 To save Seed. — Either sow a poriion for that object, or leave 
 rows wholly ungatliered of tJse nKiin crop, or prescm-e a suf- 
 
21 
 
 ficiency of good pods promiscuonsly. The beans saved should 
 be the first fruits of a crop sowed at a period which throws the 
 entire course of (rrowtli into the finest part of summer. Let 
 them hang on the stalks till they ripen fully in August or Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 Peas. — Soil and Situafioti. — Tiio soil should be moderately 
 rich, and the deeper and stronger for tlie lofty growers. 
 
 A fresh, sandy loam, or road-stuM', and a little decomposed 
 vegetable matter, is the best manure. The soil for the early 
 crops should be very dry, and rendered so, where the ground is 
 moist, by mixing sand with the earth of the drills. 
 
 Time of Sowing. — For early crops, sow in the fall, in shel- 
 tered situations, and cover during the winrer with a layer of 
 leaves, and another of long stable-litter, loosely applied, to keep 
 the leaves in their places. 
 
 For spring sowing, after the earth takes a temperatXire favor- 
 able to vegetation, your pea sowings should be made once a 
 fortnight, to keep up a regular and successive supply. 
 
 Manner of Soioing. — For early sorts, make the drills one 
 inch and a half deep ; and let parallel drills be two feet and a 
 half, three, or four feet asiuider. Peas that are to grow without 
 sticks require the least room. For summer crops and large sorts, 
 make the drills two inches deep, and four, five, or six feet asun- 
 der. Peas laid a foot below the surface will vegetate ; but the 
 most approved depth is six inches in light soil, and four inches in 
 clay soil. 
 
 Quantity of Seed. — Of the small, early kinds, one pint will 
 sow a row of twenty yards ; for the larger sorts, for main crops, 
 the same measure will sow a row of thirty-three yards. 
 
 To destroy Insects. — If the seed peas contain insects, scald 
 them a quarter of a minute in boiling water, spread them about, 
 and sow them without delay. This scalding will destroy them, 
 and cause the peas to come up sooner and grow faster. 
 
 To prevent Mice from Eating, SfC. — When peas are sown 
 before winter, or early in the spring, they are very apt to be eaten 
 by mice. To prevent this, soak the' peas for a day or tv/o in 
 train-oil before you sow them, which will encourage their vege- 
 tation, and render them so obnoxious to the mice that they will 
 not eat them. 
 
 Potatoes. — The potato began to be extensively cultivated 
 about the middle of the last century, and is now considered one 
 of the most important of tJ\c vegetable productions. 
 
^ 
 
22 
 
 Soil. — The soil ought to he sandy and light, though moder- 
 ately rich ; that is, if fine, mealy, and dry potatoes be required. 
 It should not by any means be glutted with manure, and need not 
 be deep. 
 
 The Outside Rows most Productive. — A fact of great im- 
 portance to potato growers is, that the outside rows., and all single 
 roics., will be found to produce far greater crops than any of the 
 interior rows of a plot in the garden or field. This depends upon 
 a variety of causes, the chief of wliich is, the more perfect ex- 
 posure of the foliage to the agency of air and light. \\'h<'n po- 
 tatoes are planted in rows pointing north and south, the utmost 
 cnejrgy of the light will be exerted, not only upon the foliyge of 
 the plant, but upon the surface of the intervening spaces of 
 ground. 
 
 Its Properties and. Uses. — With regard to the properties of 
 this vegetable and the purposes to which it may be applied, little 
 need be said. They are found 1o produce, — First, cottony flax 
 from the stalk. Second, sugar from the root. Third, potass by 
 consumption. Fourth, vinegar trom the ajiples. Fifth, soap, or 
 a substitute for bleacliing, from the tubercles. And, finally, 
 when cooked by steam, the most farinaceous and economical of 
 all vegetable food. 
 
 Potatoes renewed from the Seed. — Take the apples in the 
 beginning of October, (or whenever they are ripe,) before the 
 frost has hurt them ; hnng them up by the foot-stalks, in a diy 
 closet or warm room, till Christmas, then wash out the seeds, 
 spr(md and dry them in paper, and preserve them from damps 
 till spring. 
 
 Potatoes thus obtained will produce roots of the full size the 
 second season after sowing, when their qunlities may be more 
 fully ascertained than they could well be the first season. They 
 will be found to vary veiy much from the kinds from which the 
 apples were gathered. It will be expedient to plant Init one po- 
 tato of the regenerated sorts in a hill, that you may ke^'p each 
 variety separate. 
 
 The varieties most valued for table use at the present tiir.e arc 
 the Peach-Blossom, Canada White, Chenango, and Prince's Red. 
 
 The potato-rot, which has been so deadly to the cultivation of 
 this valuable vegetable, seems happily to be abating. The use 
 of lime sprinkled upon the seared leaf on its fii-st appearance 
 has proved the most successful remedy yet discovered. 
 
 Ruta-Baga. — T)»e soil for the culture of the ruta-baga must 
 
23 
 
 be rich and Hrv ; and the more it inclines to a sandy loam, the 
 better. Clay is the worst, and wet soils will not answer at all. 
 My general practice has been, to manure well a piece of pasture, 
 of clo^'er lay, from which the hay has first been cut, plough it 
 handsomely over, and harrow it well. 1 sow in rows, at two and 
 a half or three feet, Avith a drill-harrow. The sooner the pre* 
 ceding operations succeed each other, the better. 1 have sown 
 broadcast, but the expense of thinning and culture is increased. 
 A man will drill in three or four acres a day. We allow a pound 
 of seed to the acre, though half this, properly distributed, is 
 enough. Sow from the 26th of June to the 10th of July. 
 
 In the culture of tliis root use the cultivator. The great aim 
 is to extirpate th.e weeds, and that while they are young. 
 
 Postpone \hv hanesting as long as the season will permit 
 
 Mangel-Wt/kzel. — Suit. — Tlic soil for this root should dc 
 a loam, inclining 1o clay, in good tilth, well manured, and made 
 fine to a good dctpth. 
 
 Plant hig. — The holes for the seed should be made by a 
 wheel, containing pegs in its circumference, which penetrate the 
 ground about an inch, leaving intervals of four inches ; the rows 
 should be made two feet apart ; two capsules should be dropped 
 into each hole, and the wheel of a common barrow should be 
 pressed over them, which will compress the earth and leave a 
 slight rut for the retention of moisture. 
 
 Uses^ Sf-c. — Man can eat this vegetable throughout the year ; 
 it is agreeable and healthy. No insect attacks it, and it suffers 
 but little from the variety of the seasons. The leaves of this 
 plant form alone an excellent food for evei*y species of domestic 
 quadruped, during four months in the year. Turnips and other 
 vegetables are, besides, liable to be destroyed by insects, whereas 
 this beet is not. The roots can be preserved eight months in a 
 sound state, while turnips are of little value after March. 
 
 Crops. — Some premium crops have yielded more than two 
 thousand bushels per acre. In England, more than sixty tons 
 have been raised to the acre. 
 
 Gathering. — In gathering the roots, care should be taken to 
 cut ofl' the leaves about half an inch above the crown, as they 
 will not keep so well if cut more closely. 
 
 Knglisu TuRNir-fv.™- Every farmer' will find it profiio.ble to 
 raise a quantity of ihese roots. The mangel-wurzel and ruia.- 
 baga, useful as they j.mdoubted1y arc, will not completely super- 
 sede, nor altogether supply tlu> pLce of the old-fashioned English 
 turnip. 
 
9A 
 
 Good crops have been obtained several years in succession by 
 tlie following process. 
 
 Turn over a turf of old sward the first M'eek in June. Yard 
 your cattle at night on this, in the proportion of six head at least 
 to the quarter of an acre, until the 20th of July. Then harrow 
 lengthwise the fiuTows, so as Tiot to disturb or overturn them, and 
 sow in the proportion of about half a pound of seed per acre. 
 
 Fine turnips have been raised by ploughing up old sward 
 ground some time in June, harrowing well, and sowing from the 
 1st to the 20th of July, and this withotit the application of manure. 
 But there can be no doubt that folding sheep or horned cattle on 
 the land thus ploughed would very much enhance tlie crop. 
 
 Secojid Crop. — Turnips are frequently, if not most generally, 
 raised in the United States as a second crop, and no doubt tliis 
 practice is often veiy eligible, and may he perfectly consonant 
 with the soundest maxims of good husbandry. 
 
 Keeping from Insects, — If a quantity of lime were sowed 
 over the field immediately after putting in the seed, it would 
 probably preserve the crop again.yt insects, and prevent the tur- 
 nips becoming spongy, as v.ell as increase their size. Unbleached 
 ashes, soot, and plaster have also been highly recommended as 
 manure for turnips. 
 
 Grasses. — Grass is a general name for plants used in feeding 
 cattle, in a green or dry state, for hay or for pasture. There are 
 many kinds of grass cultivated in the United States, but for 
 convenience' sake they may be divided into three kinds, viz. : — 
 1. Cultivated grasses. 2. Meadow grasses. 3. Pasture grasses. 
 Among the cultivated grasses, herdsgj^ass is one of the most val- 
 uable, and, what is worthy the notice of every farmer, it affords 
 7nore than double Ihe nutriment when cut in the seed to. what it 
 does in the flower. Another consideration, which renders it par- 
 ticularly worthy of attention, is the seed which it affords, and 
 which may be saved without materially diminishing the hay crop. 
 From ten to thirty bushels of seed may be taken from an acre, 
 wliich, at the price it now hears, is of itself a handsome re- 
 muneration. 
 
 Clover is a primaiy dependence, on all lands which will grow 
 it. Lucern, sainfoin, orchard, tall-oat, and rye grass should not 
 be lost sight of. 
 
 2. Meaxlow Grass. — In selecting these, the object is to obtain 
 the greatest burden of good hay, and to mix those kinds which 
 may be profitably cut at the same time. 
 
For clayey and moist aoUs, miuiy valuable and nutritious kinds 
 seem to be well adapted, such as the smooth-stalked meadow, 
 American crow's-foot, upright bent or herdsgrass, and tall fescue, 
 are particularly suited to swain p or hog soils. For dry loams ^ 
 sands., and gravels.^ which ouglit to be kept long in grass, the 
 crow's-foot or orchard grass, and tall-oat, are probably the best; 
 and to these might be added red and white clover. 
 
 3. Pasture Crr asses. — Tlie njeado\\^ foxtail and orchard grass- 
 es, together with our white clover and green meadow grass, Poa 
 trivialis, (which seldom requires to be sown,) I think v/ould form 
 the best selectio.us for all grounds which are moderately dry. 
 Tlie rye and oat grasses, or meadow soft grass, might be either 
 svibstituted for the first two, or combined with them. These 
 would aftbrd spring, summer, and fall feed, abundant in quantity, 
 and wholesome and nutiitious in quality. Gypsum is applied to 
 pastures with the same benelit that it is to meadows. 
 
 T^nie of sowing Grass- Seeds. — On this subject there exists 
 a variety of opinion. Some prefer the fall, but the majority 
 recommend the spring, and that season, so far as our knowledge 
 extends, is most generally chosen ; but it is probable that both in 
 fall and spring sowing of grass-seeds there may be some suc- 
 cessful and some unfavorable results, according to circumstances 
 of soil, season, &:c.- Fall-sown grass-seeds are liable to be win- 
 ter-killed, or destroyed b}'- frosts ; spring-sown grass-seeds may 
 perish by drought and heat. But whenever sown, there will hi 
 less danger, cither from frost or drought, if the seed is well 
 covered Avith a harrov/, and the ground is pressed in with a roller. 
 
 There should be at least a bushel of plaster sown on every 
 acre of clover and grass land of a sand}-, gravelly, or loamy 
 soil ; also on all upland natural meadows. 
 
 Hops. — A Native Plant. — The hop is a native plant. It is 
 found growing spontaneously on the banks and intei-vals of many 
 of our large rivers. There are several distinct species, all bear- 
 ing a near affinity to each other. 
 
 Soils. — The soil best calculated for the production of hops is 
 a sandy loam, rather low and moist. I am led to this conclusion 
 from my own observation, and from finding the lands wliich pro- 
 duce them naturally to be of this kind. Yet I have seen tine 
 crops raised on very different soils. 
 
 Mode of Preparing the Lana. — I sliould recommend the 
 following mode of preparing the land and managing the crop. 
 In the fall (October), plough the land deep, nine or ten inches. 
 3 
 
26 
 
 In the spring following, pass a heavy, sharp iron-toothed harrow 
 over the land in the same direction it was ploughed ; after which, 
 spread your manure evenly over the same, sixteen cords per 
 acre, and more if the land be much reduced ; then cross-plough 
 the land nearly the same depth, and furrow it as for planting 
 com, the furrows to be at least four feet apart. 
 
 Mode of Planting. — It is cit^tornary to plant corn or potatoes 
 with the hops. (I should prefer potatoes.) Plant every other 
 hill in every other row with hops, thus placing the hop hills at 
 least eight feet apart. Put four cuttings from the running roots, 
 about eight inches in length, into each hill, and cover them the 
 conmion depth of potatoes. • 
 
 Management of Hops, first Season. — All the attention requi- 
 site the lirst season after the hops are planted is to keep them 
 clean from weeds, which is easily done when hoeing the crop 
 planted amongst them. In the fall (October), to prevent their 
 being injured by the hard frosts of v/intcr, carry on and lay out 
 of your cart one shovelful of compost manure on the* top of 
 each hill ; manure from the hog-sty I should prefer. 
 
 Ti7Jie of Gathering, — As soon as hops are ripe, which is 
 about the beginning of September, they must be immediately 
 gathered, or the crop is lost. The quality of the ho])s depends 
 considerably upon their being picked clean from leaves and 
 stems. Care should be taken, when gathering the hops, to cut 
 the vines two feet from the ground, that the roots may not be 
 injured by bleeding, and see that they do not remain long in the 
 bin or bag after they are picked, as they will very soon heat and 
 become insipid. 
 
 Broom Corn. — Kinds. — There are several varieties of 
 broom corn, the North River crop being generally considered 
 the best. The pine-tree kind is considered the poorest, though 
 by several weeks the earliest, and in a short season turns out 
 very profitable. The New Jersey, or large kind, produces about 
 one thousand pounds ])cr acre. 
 
 Alluvial lands, well maniu'ed, and protected by hills, are best 
 adapted for the broom corn. 
 
 Planting. — The broom corn slionld be planted from two to 
 three feet apart in rows, so that a plough or cultivator can be 
 run between them. The hills may be laid out from eighteen 
 inches to two feet apart ; aboul f'orly seeds to a hill will answer 
 for seeding. Put the manure into the hills ; — old compost is best. 
 
 Cultivation. — 'The broom corn requires tu be hoed three 
 
2ir 
 
 times, the last hoeing when the stalks arc three or four feet high. 
 In the first hoeing pull up the waste stalks, leaving hi the hill 
 from seven to ten. 
 
 Gathering. — The crop should be gathered in before the 
 severe frosts, as the frost kills the seed. The weight of the seed 
 is about forty pounds to a bushel, and it is useful for feeding 
 horses, cattle, and swine. It is to be ground and mixed with 
 meal. 
 
 Millet. — The cultivated and the German millet are the only- 
 two kinds now cared for, and they require nearly the same 
 culture. 
 
 Tlie soil should be well pulverized, rich, sandy, and warm. 
 It should be ploughed three times, and carefully weeded, rolled, 
 and harrowed. 
 
 The seed should be sown in May, and followed by a light har- 
 rowing. The weeds must be kept under as indispensable to a 
 successful crop. That part designed tor seed should be placed 
 in a dry, aiiy place. The grain should be spread loosely on the 
 barn floor, and stirred every day with a rake until it is perfectly 
 diy. The straw makes excellent fodder for cattle. 
 
 Flax. — The only kind of flax nov,' raised is the common 
 kind used in the manufacture of cloth. 
 
 The best soil for flax is that composed of a large proportion 
 of vegetable matter. Soils of a dry, sandy, and gi'avelly nature 
 are not suitable, neither is a clay bottom adapted to the purpose. 
 Alluvial soils are good. The soil should be made flne, and freed 
 from weeds. 
 
 The seed is sown broadcast, and covered in by a double turn 
 of the harrows. Three bushels of seed to the acre is a good 
 rule, and should be sown iii April or May. If the crop is de- 
 sired for seed, it requires a greater degree of ripeness than when 
 the fibre is alone desired. 
 
 Hemp. — Fresh soils, or those which have for some time Iain 
 in grass or clover, produce this article best. Old meadow lands, 
 or rich, clayey loams do well. Manures are not essential. 
 
 Fall and winter ploughing should not be neglected, as the 
 ground should be made fine and of smooth surface. When the 
 crop is designed for next year's reproduction, the seed should be 
 sown in drills four feet apart ; the female stalks should be pulled 
 up and cast away, and the male stalks left seven to eight inches 
 from each other. 
 
 The time of sowing the seed is the month of May, near the 
 
2B 
 
 10th of the montl)., and the seed-stalks i:hou'ld he cut after the 
 first sharp frost. The seeds are to be sown broadcast, in the pro- 
 portion of a bushel and a half to an acre. x\fier the seeds are 
 sown^ nature carries forward the work, and the farmer may wait 
 till the crop rip'ens. 
 
 Cutting the plant is preferable to pulling in the time of gath- 
 ering ; let them be cut and spread out evenly upon the ground to 
 cure for two or three days. 
 
 Rotting is by two methods. 1. Dew-rotting. 2. Water-rot- 
 ting. In dew-rotting, spread down tlie plants from the middle of 
 October to the middle of December. Snow-rotting is a good 
 practice, though it takes too much time. Nothing is better to 
 prepare the ground for grain or grasses than the hemp crop. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 THE farmer's miscellany OF HOME MATTERS. 
 
 Dairy. — General P^cmarks. — Unless the farmer has a very 
 diligent and industrious wife, who sees minutely to her dairy, or 
 a most honest, diligent, and careful housekeeper to do it for him, 
 he W'ill assuredly lose money by ln"s dairy ; trusted to common 
 servants, it will not pay charges. The dairymaid must be up 
 every morning at four o'clock, or she will be backward in her 
 business. At five tlie cows must be milked, and there must be 
 milkers enough to finish ]jy six. Tiie same rule must be ob- 
 served in the evening. 
 
 In making butter, the dairymaids should be particularly atten- 
 tive to one circumstance ; viz. there must be a certain proportion 
 of acid in the cream, either natural or artificial, or they cannot 
 insure a good churning of butter ; some keep a little of the old 
 cream for that purpose ; others use a little rennet; and some a. 
 little lemon-juice. 
 
 In order to determine which cov/'s milk is best for cream, it 
 has been recommended to let the milk of each be put by itself, 
 and churn each separately. 
 
 Tlie Dairy-house. — The properties requisite in a daiiy-house 
 are, that it be cool in summer and moderately warm in winter, 
 so as to preserve nearly the same temperature throughout the 
 
year. A dairy for the private use of any fanner or family need 
 not be large, and may very economically be formed in a thick- 
 walled diy cellar, so situated as to have windows on two sides, 
 the north and east in preference, for ventilation ; and in order 
 that these windows may the better exclude cold in winter and 
 heat in summer, they should be fitted with double sashes ; and 
 on the outside of the outer sash should be a fixed frame of close 
 wire netting or haircloth, to exclude ilies and other insects. 
 
 On preserving the Temperature of Milk-Rooms. — Where 
 the temperature of the milk-room has become affected by the 
 carrying of newly drawn milk into it, it may be easily reduced 
 to the proper temperature by suspending a small quantity of ice 
 Zit a considerable lieight from the floor ; and if, during winter, 
 the cold siiould become too great, a barrel of hot water, closely 
 stopped, or a few hot bricks, placed on the floor or table of the 
 milk-room, will readily counteract its efiects. But on no account 
 whatever should a chafing-dish with burning coals be used, as it 
 will certainly impart a bad taste to the milk. 
 
 Dairy Utensils, — ]\lilk- Coolers, Sj'C. — All dairy utensils 
 ouglit to be most caret\illy scoured, first with hot water, and 
 afterwards rinsed wijh cold, and kept in an airy place, in order 
 that every possible degree of acidity may be removed. Should 
 one or two scourings be insufficient, they must be repeatedly 
 cleansed until- they become entirely sweet, as the slightest taint 
 or acidity may cause material loss. Slate, according to some 
 accounts, makes veiy good milk-coolers, and perhaps freestone 
 might answer as well. 
 
 Making Butter in Wi?iter. — Mrs. Jones prepares her cream 
 for churning by heating the milk after it has stood tv/elve or 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
 She places it over coals the evening before churning, until 
 the milk, as it stands with the cream on, is hea.ted ready to boil- 
 ing, when she sets it by till morning."^ The cream - : ■ n 
 skimmed off, and churned by stirring in an eanhei: vcs 
 butter is delicately white and clear in iis conip i!X"';.;>. , 
 fine-flavored. 
 
 Garlic in Batter. — Wlien milk has the tkv, oi* oi' . .- . .,- 
 wild onion, add a quart of boiling water to each gallon, and sev 
 it avvay in vessels having the bottom covered l.he ''-.'ckness of an 
 inch only with milk. The cream that rises will bo perfecay 
 sweet, and free from any disagreeable flavor. 
 
 Cheese. — Makiag Cheese. — A person v/hose dair\- enjovs a 
 3* 
 
30 
 
 high reputation gives the following directions for making cheese : 
 " Take a gallon and a half of water and throw into it a pint and 
 a half of common salt. Boil and skim it, and add three or four 
 ounces of rose-leaves. After it is sufficiently steeped, let it cool, 
 and put in one ounce of saltpetre and four rennets. A great- 
 spoonful of this preparation is enough to turn fifteen gallons of 
 milk. When the curd is made, dip it out carefully and put it 
 into a cloth that sits in a vessel with its bottom perforated with 
 holes. Let a person on each side of the cloth take up the cor- 
 ners, and raise the curd carefully, and turn it from one side to 
 the other in the cloth, in order to the better draining off the 
 whey ; then lay it as before in a vessel perforated with holes, and 
 thus turn it once in fifteen or twenty minutes, and in the intervals 
 place a follower upon it, with a stone above ; cutting the curd 
 through each time. When the whey is out, season it with salt 
 to your palate, while cutting it up in small pieces with a suitable 
 knife ; then put it up for pressing. Let it stand under thirty or 
 forty pounds' weight for twenty-four hours, and then turn it and 
 let it stand twenty-four hours more under the same. A severe 
 pressure, w^hich is sometimes given, spoils a rich cheese entirely. 
 
 " Set your cheese in closets made for the purpose, which flies 
 cannot enter. 
 
 '' The outside may be rubbed with a mixture of butter and 
 Spanish-brown, which answers very well, but other mixtures may 
 answer equally well. 
 
 " A small quantity of otter, say the size of a kernel of rye, 
 seiocd up ill a cloth, may be put in each curd. 
 
 " Never wash out your cheese-cloth with soap, but boll it out 
 in whey." 
 
 Stilton Cheese. — Ho2v made. — Take the night's cream and 
 put it into the morning's new milk with the rennet ; when 
 the curd is separated, let it not be broken, as is done with other 
 cheese, but take it out, disturbing it as little as possible, and suf- 
 fer it to dry gradually in a sieve ; and as the wliey separates, 
 compress it gradually till it has acquired a firm consistence ; then 
 place it in a wooden hoop, and suller it to dry very gradually on 
 a board, taking care at the same time to turn it daily with close 
 binders round, and which must be tightened as the cheese ac- 
 quires more solidit}'. 
 
 Skippers in Cheese. — A\'rap the cheese in thin brown paper, 
 so thin that moisture may strilvc through soon ; dig a hole in 
 good sweet earth aboiu tv.o feet deep, in which the cheese must 
 
31 
 
 be buried about thirty-six hours, and the skippers will be found 
 all on the outside of the cheese ; brush them off immediately, 
 and you will find your cheese sound and good. 
 
 To prevent Cheese having a Rancid, Najiseous Flavor. — Put 
 about one table-spoonful of salt to each gallon of milk, w^hen 
 taken from the cows in the evening, for the cheese to be made 
 the next day ; put the salt at the bottom of the vessel that is to 
 receive the milk; it will increase the curd, and prevent the milk 
 from growing sour ol* putrid the hottest nights in summer. 
 
 Barns. — Proper Location of Barns. — The barn should be 
 placed at a convenient distance from the dwelling-house and 
 other buildings, but as near as may be without danger of fire, or 
 annoyance from the effluvia of manure-heaps. Too low a spot 
 will be miry in spring and fall. Too high an eminence will be 
 inconvenient for drawing in loads, and on account of saving and 
 making manure. If other circumstances permit, it may be best 
 to place a barn in such a manner as to defend the dwelling-house 
 from the force of the coldest winds. 
 
 Proper Size, ^'C. — The size of the barn should be propor- 
 tionate to the produce of the farm ; for in this country, where 
 building is not expensive, all the hay and grain should be placed 
 under cover. It is a bad practice to leave hay in stacks in the 
 meadows where it is cut, to be there foddered out to the cattle 
 in the course of the winter. By this mode of management the 
 manure is almost lost. 
 
 Barn Floor, — Grain Bin, ^c, — The floor of the barn should 
 be kept tight, so that the grain cannot fall through in threshing ; 
 and for this purpose it should have a layer of thin boards under 
 it. It is most advisable also to have a place set apart in the barn 
 for the purpose of stowing away the grain after it is threshed. 
 The bins for the grain should be made of hard plank, to prevent 
 tlie rats and mice from eating through them, and should liave 
 lids, which can be fastened dov^n with padlocks. 
 
 Fences. — The kinds of fence and manner of fencing chou'd 
 vary according to the difference of soil and the kuids of inateri- 
 als for fencing. In new lands, logs are and ought to be most 
 used. When built of white-pine, they will las* about tv/enly 
 years. Other sorts of wood, such as pitch-pine, hemlock, ash, 
 oak, &c., will endure for a considerable time if not placed too 
 near the ground. 
 
 Best Kind of Rails. — In many parts of the country, posts 
 and i-ails will be found the cheapest materials for fence. 
 
32 
 
 The best timber for rails, according to Dr. Deane, is red-cedar. 
 It is easy to split, light to carry and handle, sufticiently strong, 
 and the most durable of any. 
 
 Best Kind of Posts. — Red-cedar, locust, and chestnut are 
 best for posts. Butternut, black- v/alnut, and oak are pretty good, 
 lasting about fifteen years. 
 
 If tlie lower ends of posts are scorched in a hot tlanie before 
 they are put into the ground, they will last the longer. Some 
 recommend soaking them in sea- water to keep them from rotting. 
 The posts should be set at least two feet in the ground. 
 
 Stone Walls. — In laying stone walls, regard should be had to 
 the soil. ■ If a miry or clay soil, the foundation should be laid in 
 a trench nearly as low as the earth freezes. A wall of flat or 
 square shaped stones will stand pretty well on any soil on the 
 surface. 
 
 Drains. — Two Kinds of Brains. — Drains used in farming 
 are of two kinds, open mid covered. They should be of a size 
 and depth proportioned to the extent of the swamp and the 
 probable quantity of water for which they are designed to be 
 channels. They should generally be carried through the lowest 
 and wettest part of the soil, although it should be necessary, in 
 order to effect that purpose, to deviate from straight lines. 
 
 Of Ditching a Fence. — When a ditch is made for a fence, 
 it ought to be four feet wide at the top, one or less at the bottom, 
 and about two and a half feet deep ; with the earth all thrown 
 .out on one side, and banked up as high as possible. 
 
 A Ride for Open Drains. — A rule for open drains is that 
 the width at top should be three times as much as that which is 
 necessary at the bottom, and in case of peat-mosses or soft soils, 
 it should be such as to allow the w^ater to run off witiiout stagna- 
 tion, but not with so rapid a motion as to injure the bottom. 
 
 Manner of Draining a Swamp. — The manner of draining a 
 swamp is as follows. Beginning at the outlet, pass a large ditch 
 through it, so as mostly to cut the lowest parts. Then make 
 another ditch quite round it, near to the border, to cut off the 
 springs which come from the uplands, and to receive the water 
 that runs dovvii from the hills u])on the surface, in great rains. 
 
 Of the Main Ditches. — I'ho bottom of the main ditches, 
 when the soil is not of an extraordinary depth, must be lower 
 than the bottom of the loose soil ; otherwise the soil will never 
 become sufSciently diy and firm. 
 
 A Rule for all Drains. — In all drains, it is a rule to begin 
 
33 
 
 at the lowest place and to work upwards, by which the water will 
 always pass from the workmen and point out the level. This 
 enables the laborers also to work in coarse weather, and prevents 
 their being interrupted by wet so early in the season as otherwise 
 might ha})nen. 
 
 Haymaking. — -It is a matter of mnch importance to the hus- 
 bandman that he should take time by the fore'rop during tiie hay- 
 malcing season. He must drive his business rather than be 
 driven by it. 
 
 Seaso7i of Cutting Grass. — It is best, generally speaking, to 
 cut your very heaviest grass first of all ; and if it be lodged, or in 
 danger of lodging, or the lowest leaves and bottom of the stalks 
 are beginning to turn yellow, although the grass is hardly head- 
 ed, and appears not to have obtained more than two thirds of its 
 growth, you had better begin upon it. But when you have help 
 enough, and your grass stands up well, you will do best to wait 
 till the blossom is fully formed, and is beginning to turn brown. 
 Clover is the most critical grass, and requires the most attention. 
 *' In all cases," says Sir John Sinclair, " clover ought to be mown 
 before the seed is formed ^^"^ that the full juice and nourishment 
 of the plants may be retained in the hay. 
 
 The fore part of the season for making hay is, we believe, 
 usually attended with less rain than the latter part. The days, 
 too, are longer, and the dews are less copious. Farmers will, 
 therefore, find additional motives from these circumstances to 
 industry and exertion in early hay-time. 
 
 Grass should he mown close. — It is asserted by the " Farm- 
 er's Guide," that " grass will not thrive well that is not mown 
 quite close ; and the loss in the crop where this is not done is 
 considerable, as one inch at the bottom iceighs mare than several 
 at the top.'' 
 
 Signs of Rain, ^c. — In this cli-raate, a southerly wind, if it 
 continues steadfast for forty-eight hours, is generally followed by 
 rain. If the wind, however, shi;ft its course with the sun, or, as 
 sailors phrase it, go round with the sun, in the morning blow- 
 ing from the south, or east of south, and changing westerly 
 as the sun advances, it generally indicates dry weather. If the 
 wind shifts in a course opposite to the apparent course of the 
 sun, rain commonly succeeds.. If the wind continues southerly, 
 and blows briskly through the night, it commonly, as the phrase 
 is, " blows up. rai)i-." A northerly whid is a drying wind, and its 
 predominance soon dissipates clouds, and introduces fair weather. 
 
34 
 
 Harvesting. — As a general rule, tiie proper tune lo renp 
 wheat or rye is when the straw begins to shrink, and becomes 
 wliiie about half an inch below the ear. 
 
 If the grain is encumbered with grass or weeds, you must cut 
 it very near the top, and a little earlier than you otherwise would, 
 that you may have time to dry the weeds without the grain shell- 
 ing out. 
 
 Wheat and rye should both be bound with one length of the 
 straw, as it v/ill save the trouble of making bands, and the wheat 
 will dry better, as the sheaves must, of course, be small. 
 
 It is a bad plan to stow grain upon a hay-mow", as it is apt to 
 become musty, and will be much harder to thresh, on account of 
 the dampness communicated by the hay ; it should be stowed 
 upon a scaffold. 
 
 In making a stack, be "careful and keep the seed ends of the 
 sheaves in the middle, and a little higher than the outer ends. 
 This will preserve it from the fov/ls and the rain ; niakc up the 
 top well v/ith straw. 
 
 Oats should be harvested before the straw becomes fully yel- 
 low. The straw will be of little or no value if permitted to stand 
 till it becomes white and destitute of sap. They should bo 
 gathered mornings and evenings, when the strav/ is made pliable 
 by moisture. 
 
 The only certain test of judging when barley is fit to mow, 
 
 J, must be from the dropping and falling of tlie ears, so as to 
 
 f* double against the straw. In that state, and not before, it may be 
 
 cut with all expedition, and carried in whhout danger to tlie mow. 
 
 Bushes. — In many parts of our country the pasture grounds 
 are infested and often overrun with noxious shrubs : this is the 
 most slovenly part of our husbandry, and ought to be cured. 
 
 Eradicating them, says Deane, requires so much labor that 
 farmers are most commonly content with cutting them once m a 
 few years. But the more cuttings they survive, the longer livjcd 
 they are apt to be, and the hardej- to kill, as the roots continually 
 gain strength. 
 
 Best iivie for Cutting Bushes, Manner, ^c. — It is undoubt- 
 edly true, that cutting bushes in the summer will do more towards 
 destroying tliem than doing it in any other season, particularly in 
 August. Oiher circumstancas being equal, the wettest weather 
 ■ is best for destroying shrubs by cutting. Spreading plaster on 
 ground where bushes have been cut may tend to check their re- 
 sprouting, by encouraging the growth of grass. 
 
It 15 said to be a good ju'jiho',1 ol" ilfjsifoyiiig bushes, to cut 
 Tliem with hoes close to the suri^ico, when the ground is frozen 
 iiard ; and that more may !)e d!.'strv.'yc(i in a day in this way than 
 in the usual method of catting vvitli a bush-scythe. 
 
 Bashes which grow in cluslers, ;is alder, &c., may be expe- 
 ditiously pulled up by oxen ; and this is an effectual way to sab- 
 due them. 
 
 Elder is considered harder to subdue than almost any other 
 kind of bush ; mowing it five times in a season, it is said, will 
 not kill it. Tiie roots of the shrub-oak will not be killed by dig- 
 ging them out. 
 
 To destroy bushes in swamps, flooding two or three summers 
 is the most approved method.* But if this is not convenient, 
 draining will so alter the nature of tlie soil, that the shrubs which 
 it natumlly produced before will not be any longer nourished by 
 it ; and one cutting ir/ay be suiiicient. 
 
 After all, extirpation by digging them out, and by fire, is 
 cheapest and most eflectual. 
 
 Ploughing. — Ploughing is the most important of agricultural 
 operations. On the maimer in v/hich this is performed depend 
 all the subsequent operations of tillage on the same land. 
 
 Of Ploughing in different Soils^ Time when, ^-c. — In all 
 stiff, heavy, and adhesive soils, that are much disposed to moist- 
 ure, it should be a common rule not to plough them while wet in 
 any considerable degree, especially if there is much clay in their 
 composition. 
 
 Greensward, in general, can hardly be ploughed too wet, if it 
 be not miiy. Marshy, moory, and peaty or moss}^ descriptions 
 of soil should, in general, when already reduced to a state of til- 
 lage, be ploughed vrhen the season is diy. 
 
 In dry, sandy, and perhaps in some of the more mellow kinds 
 of loamy soils, the business of ploughing may be performed 
 when the earth is in a state of considerable moisture. But very 
 dry, sandy land, whenever the weather is hot and diy, should 
 merely be stirred in such a way as may be necessary to prevent 
 the growth of weeds. 
 
 TJpon the Depth of Ploughing, no certain Rule to he given. — 
 Much has been said upon the advantages of deep ploughing. 
 But no general rule on this subject can be given which is not lia- 
 ble to many exceptions. The cultivator must be regulated by 
 the nature of the soil, the proposed crop, &c. 
 
 The point which ought to be referred to, when determining 
 
36 
 
 between the merits of different specimens of ploughing, is the 
 angle of forty-five degrees. That is, other things being equal, 
 tlie nearer the furrovv'-slice comes to forming an angle of forty- 
 .iive degrees with the horizon, the more perfect the specimen of 
 ploughing. 
 
 Dry Soils to he tilled fat. — Dry soils, being deficient in 
 moisture, ought to he tilled fat, as any sort of draining which 
 the furrows might afford would be prejudicial rather than ad- 
 vantageous. 
 
 Pasture. — Management of Pasture Land. — To manage 
 pasture land advantageously, it should be well fenced in small 
 lots, of four, eight, or twelve acres, according to the largeness of 
 one's farm and stock ; and these Iocs should be bordered at least 
 with rows of trees. It is best that trees of some kind or other 
 should be growing, scattered in every point of a pasture, so that 
 the cattle may never liave to go far in a hot liour to obtain a 
 comfortable shade. The grass will spring earlier in the lots that 
 are thus sheltered, and they will bear the drought better. But 
 too great a proportion of shade should be avoided, as it will give 
 a sourness to the gniss. 
 
 Tijne of Turning in Cattle. — It is hurtful to pastures to turn 
 in cattle too early in the spring ; and most hurtful to those pas- 
 tures in which the grass springs earliest, as in very low and wet 
 pastures. Fetching such land in the spring destroys the sward, 
 so that it will produce the less quantity of grass. Neither should 
 cattle be let into any paature until the grass is so much grown as 
 to afford them a good bite, so that thej^ may fill themselves with- 
 out rambling over the whole lot. The 20th of May is early 
 enough to turn cattle into almost any of our pastures. Out of 
 some they should be kept later. The driest pastures should be 
 used first, though in them the grass is shortest, that the potching 
 of the ground in the wettest may be prevented. 
 
 Of Cleaning Bushes and Shruhs. — The bushes and shrubs 
 that rise in pastures should be cut in the most likely times to de- 
 stroy them. Thistles and other bad weeds should be cut down 
 before their seeds have ripened ; and ant-hills should be de- 
 .Mroyed. Much may be done towards subduing a bushy pasture 
 ;by keeping cattle hungry in it. A continual browsing keeps 
 down the young shoots, and totally kills many of the bushes. 
 Steers ;gnd heifers may mend such a pasture, and continue 
 growing. 
 
 Of Feeding in Rotation^ — Feeding pastures In rotation is of 
 
37 
 
 greater advantage than some are apt to imagine. One acre, 
 managed according to the above directions, will turn to better 
 account, as some say who have practised it, than three acres in 
 the common way. By the common way I would be understood 
 to mean, having weak and tottering fences, that will drop of 
 themselves in a few months, and never can resist the violence of 
 disorderly cattle ; suffering weeds and bushes to overrun the 
 land ; keeping all the pasture land in one inclosure ; turning all 
 sorts of stock together ; sutferhig the fence to drop down in 
 autumn, so as to lay the pasture common to all the swine and 
 catde that please to enter ; and not putting up ttie fence again 
 until the 1st of May, or later. Such management is too com- 
 mon in all parts of this country. 
 
 Of Manuring Pastures. — Though pastures need manuring 
 less than other lands, yet, when bushes, bad weeds, &c. are 
 burnt upon them, the ashes should be spread thinly over the sur- 
 fece. The grass will thus be improved, and grass-seeds should 
 be sown upon the burnt spots, that no part may be vacant of 
 grass. 
 
 Of Water in Pastures. — " Sheep, calves, and horses, unless 
 they are worked,'' it is said, " require no water in their pastures. 
 The w^ant of water induces them to feed in the night, when the 
 dew is on aiid the grass more nutritious. Cows, however, want 
 pure water." 
 
 Way to obtain Water. — " In pastures which are on side-hills, 
 water may generally be obtained by digging horizontally into the 
 side of the hill till it is found, and then carrying it out with a 
 pipe." 
 
 Woodland. — Care sliould he taken of the Young Growth. — 
 Some ground is covered with wood or trees that are mostly de- 
 signed for fuel and timber. In felling them, care should be taken 
 to injure the young growth as little as possible. Firewood, as well 
 as timber, should be felled when the sap is down ; otherwise it 
 will hiss and fry upon the fire, and not burn freely, although it 
 should be ever so long dried. 
 
 Hoiv to thicken a Forest. — To thicken a forest, or to in- 
 crease the number of trefes in a wood-lot, it should be well fenced, 
 and no cattle be permitted to be in it. And something may be 
 done, if needful, by layers and cuttings. 
 
 Old Trees should be cut. — The Massachusetts Agricultural 
 Repository recommends cutting hard-wood trees between forty 
 and fifty yeai-s of age ; and the writer states, that though trees 
 4 
 
as 
 
 may shoot up in heiglit by standing longer, yet the period of the 
 most rapid vegetation is mostly over, and by this means much 
 of the under-growth is necessarily destroyed. 
 
 A Decaying Forest sliould he cut off Clean. — The " Farm- 
 er's Assistant" likewise says: " If woods aye old and decaying, 
 the better way is to cirt all olf, as you want to lise the wood, and 
 let an entire new growth start up, which will grow more rapidly." 
 
 SECTION ITT. 
 
 THE MOST COMJION NOXIOUS INSECTS. 
 
 Insects. — The design of our v/ork will allow us to devote but 
 a brief space to the consideration of this subject. A fev/ of the 
 most approved modes of cou.ntoractinf^ the ravages of insects 
 will be pointed out. 
 
 Preventive Operaiicms. — The preventive operations are those 
 of the best culture, in the most extensive sense of the term, in- 
 cluding what relates to choice of seed or plant, soil, situation, 
 and clhnate. If these are c . ■ aii'iuir.] lo, it will seldom 
 happen that any species of in: -ci \, i i cl'bct serious and permia- 
 nent injury^. Vegetables which are vig<,>rous and thrifty are not 
 apt to be injured by v.orms, flies, bugs, &c. Fall ploughing, by 
 exposing worms, grubs, the larvae of bugs, beetles, (kc, to the in- 
 tense frosts of our vvinters, is vejy beneficial. Insects may be 
 aimoyed, and oftentimes their complete destruction eflected, by 
 sprinkling over them, by means of a syringe, watering-pot, or 
 garden-engine, simple water, soap-suds, tobacco-water, decoctions 
 of elder, especially of the dwarf kind, of vralnut-leaves, bitter 
 and acrid herbs, pepper, lye of wo(jd-.'iSiies, or solutions of pot 
 and pearl ashes, water impregnated ^\ith salt, tar, tur{)entine, &c. ; 
 or they may be dusted with sulphur, quicklhrne, and other acrid 
 substances. 
 
 Canker-ioorm. — The female of thifJP insect comes out of the 
 ground late in the fall or early in the spring, or, sometimes, 
 during a period of mild, open weather in winter. Those which 
 rise in autumn or in winter are less numerous than those which 
 ascend in spring; but, being very prolific, they do much injury 
 One method of preventing the ravages of the worm ..is to bar the 
 
:J9 
 
 ascent of the females up the stem of the tree. Tliis has gener- 
 ally been attempted by tarring^ of which there are several 
 modifications. 
 
 ,Tkrec Modes of Tarring. — 1. A strip of linen or canvas is 
 put round the body of the tree, before the females begin their 
 ascent, and well smeared with tar. The insects, in attempting' to 
 pass this barrier, stick fast and perish. But this process, to com- 
 plete the desired etfect, must be commenced about the first of 
 November, and the tarring continued, when the weather is mild 
 enough to permit the worms to emerge from the ground, till the 
 latter end of May, or till the time of their ascent is past. It is 
 necessaiy to fiU the crevices in the bark with clay mortar, before 
 the strip of linen or canvas is put on, that the msects may not 
 pass under it. 
 
 2. Another mode of tarring is, to take two pretty wide pieces 
 of board, plane thern, make semicircular notches in each, fitting 
 them to the stem or body of ihe tree, and fasten them together 
 securely at the ends, so that the most violent storms may not dis- 
 place them. The crevices bet^vLxt the boards and the tree may 
 be easily stopped with rags or tow ; then smear the under side 
 of the boards with tar. 
 
 3. A gentleman informs us, that in Plymouth, Massachusetts, 
 they make use of the following mixture as a substitute for tar in 
 i^reserv'ing fruit-trees against canker-worms, vie. : White varnish, 
 soft soap, and whale-oil, one third of each, to be mixed and applied 
 a 5 tar is usually. This mixture is not soon hardened by the 
 weather, and does not injure the trees. Another simple mode of 
 preventing the ascent of the insect is to wind a band of refuse 
 flax or swingle tow round the tree, and stick on the band burdock 
 or chestnut burs, set so closely together that worms cannot pass 
 between them. 
 
 CaterpiUars. — Mode of destroying them. — This is one of 
 the worst enemies to an orchard, when neglected, but easily de- 
 stroyed by a little attention. In the spring, when the nests are 
 .small, and the insects young and tender, they never venture 
 abroad in the early part of the day, when the dew is on the trees, 
 or in bad weather ; they may then be effectually destroyed by 
 crushing them in the nest. This attention, continued a short 
 time .eveiy spring, will destroy those in existence, and will pre- 
 vent their increase in future years ; if left till grown strong, they 
 wander from their nests, and cannot be effectually overcome 
 without great trouble and expense. 
 
40 
 
 Other methods have been proposed, such as casting over the 
 tree a few handfuls of ashes in the morning, before the dew is 
 dissipated from tlie foliage, or after a shower of rain. A strong 
 whitewash of fresh limestone, applied by the means of a mop, 
 or sponge, fixed to the end of a pole, strong soap-suds, spirits of 
 turpentine, a little oil of any kind, particularly blubber-oil, are / 
 likewise fatal to th(! insects. 
 
 Cat-worm. — This is an ash-colored worm, with a stripe al- 
 most black on its back. When fully grown, it is about the size 
 of a goose-quill, and about an inch and a quarter in length. 
 They are very apt to ciit olf young cabbages, cauliflowers, beets, 
 &c. They never voluntarily appear on the surface of the ground 
 in the day-time, but may be found about an inch below it. In 
 the night they make their excursions, cut oil:' the stems of young 
 plants just at the top of the ground, and again bury themselves. 
 
 ReDiedies for, 4*c. — Lime and ashes, in some measure, pre- 
 vent their doing mischief; but sea- water, salt, or brine, would be 
 more effectual ; and not a laborious remedy, even in field culture, 
 is it to go roimd every morning and open the earth at the foot of 
 the plant, and you will never fail to find the worm at the root 
 within four inches. Kill him, and you will save, not only the 
 other plants of the field, but probably many thousands in future 
 years. 
 
 Apple-tree Borers. — Preventive, <^c. — In speaking of the 
 apple-tree borer, Professor Loy, in a letter to Jesse Buel, Esq., 
 says : '^ You state that it leaves the pupa and becomes perfect in 
 the latter part of April, and that the eggs are deposited beneath 
 the surface of the soil. These two circumstances ascertained, I 
 would recommend the application, early in May, or the latter 
 part of April, of common bricklayer's mortar, around the base 
 of the tree, so as to cover completely the part, and its immediate 
 vicinity, where the deposit is made." 
 
 Slug-worm. — The following remedy, it is said, will prove 
 effectual in the destruction of this worm. Make a strong infu- 
 sion of tar, by pouring water on tar and suflering it to stand two 
 or three days, till it becomes strongly impregnated. This, if 
 sprinkled over the leaves by means of an engine, will kill these 
 vermin instantaneously. A strong decoction of tobacco will prob- 
 ably produce the desired effect, and tanner's bark put round the 
 tree, it is said, will have a salutary tendency as a preventive. 
 
 Others recommend watering the ground where these insects 
 are with soap-suds and urine, mixed with tobacco- water. Ducks 
 admitted into a garden will destroy all within their reach. 
 
41 
 
 Wlr&'Worm^ or Red Wo/^/n. — This insect ia slender, and 
 usually about an inch long, with a hard coat and a pointed head. 
 
 Soaking seed-corn in a solution of copperas in water has been 
 found etlectual against this insect. 
 
 Probably sea-mud or sea-water would produce good effect as 
 preservatives against this and other insects. 
 
 Striped Btig^ or Yellow Fhj. — This is a bug that preys on 
 the young plants of cucumbers, melons, squashes, and other 
 similar plants. They may be considerably thhined by killing 
 them in a dewy morning, wlien they have not the free use of 
 their wings, and cannot well escape ; or the vines may be sprin- 
 kled over with sulphur, or Scotch snuff, which is an effectual 
 antidote. But a frame, covered with muslin or gauze, is prob- 
 ably the best remedy. 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 A COLLECTION OF CHOICE RECEIPTS VALUABLE TO THE FARMER 
 AND HIS WIFE. 
 
 irf These have all been tested arid approved. 
 
 Class I. 
 
 Way to make Candles. — Prepare your wicks about half the 
 usual size, wet with spirits of turpentine, put them into the sua 
 until dry, then mould or dip your candles. 
 
 Candles thus made last longer, and give much clearer light. In 
 fact, they are nearly or quite equal to sperm, in clearness of light. 
 
 Take two pounds of alum for every ten pounds of tallow ; 
 dissolve the alum in w^ater before the tallow is put in, and then 
 melt the tallow in the alum-water, with frequent stirrmg, and it 
 will clarify and harden the tallow so as to make it a most beautiful 
 article for eiliier winter or summer use, almost as good as sperm. 
 
 Cheese. — To prevent its Cracking. — The best method to pre- 
 vent the cracking of cheese is to salt it in the milk, or after 
 the cheese is formed, which may be done with much more cer- 
 tainty than in the curd, whicli is a bad method. 
 
 Dairy Secret. — Have ready two pans in boiling water : and 
 on the new milk coming to the dairy, lake the hot pans out of 
 4* 
 
4-2 
 
 the water, put tlie milk into one of ihem, aijd cover it willi tlie 
 other. This will occasion great augmentation in the thickness 
 and quality of the cream. 
 
 Eggs. — Prescrcivg Eggs. — A xMr. Jayne, of Yorkshire, 
 England, obtained a patent for the following receipt, for present- 
 ing eggs, which we think worthy of trial : — * 
 
 One bushel of quicklime, 32 ounces of salt, 8 ounces of cream 
 of tartar. 
 
 Mix the same together with as much water as will reduce the 
 composition to sucii consistency that an egg, when put into it, will 
 swim. It is said eggs have beeji kept sound, in this way, for 
 two years. 
 
 Another. — Put a layer of salt in the bottom of a jar, and 
 stick the eggs, point downwards, into the salt, and so on, layer 
 after layer. 
 
 Hams. — How to preserve. — Mr. Robert Wilson, of Fair- 
 field, Conn,, says he preserves his hams from flies, &c., by pack- 
 ing them in oats. In the fall he mixes his oats with corn, and 
 grinds them, to increase the quantity. 
 
 Beef and Pork. — A Pickle for. — The following receipt is 
 strongly recommended : Six gallons of water, 9 lbs. salt, coarse 
 and fme mixed ; 3 lbs. sugar ; 3 ounces saltpetre ; 1 ounce pearl- 
 ash ; one gallon molasses to every six gallons water. In making 
 a larger or smaller quantity of pickle, the above proportions are to 
 be observed. Boil and skim th.e ingredients well. 
 
 Bacon. — Hoic to pre scree. — Make a lye of wood-ashes,^nd 
 boil it till it is strong. Dip each piece of meat in it, let it dry, 
 and hang it in a smoke-house ; no insect will injure it, and the 
 taste of the lye will not be perceived, even on the outside. 
 
 Apples. — Winter aj)pl(3s are better for remaining on the tree 
 till well grown and ripened ; it improves their flavor. 
 
 To drive Ants away. — To prevent this little intruder from 
 committing depredations on your dairy, safes, &c., smoke the 
 bottom of your dishes or other vessels over a fire of oak chips 
 or limbs ; smoke empty vessels, and set your full ones in them. 
 You must repeat the process every day or two, which wdll prob- 
 ably cause them to change their haunts. 
 
 A small quantity of green sage, placed in the closet, will cause 
 ants to disappear. 
 
 Bees. — How to catch the Molh, or Miller. — Dr. Waterman 
 says : " I took two whhe dishes, (I think white attracts their at- 
 tention in the night.) or deep plates, and placed them on the top 
 
of the hives, and filled ihem about half full of sweetened vine- 
 gar. The next morning I had about fifty millers caught ; the 
 second night I caught fifty more ; the third night being cold, 1 did 
 ^not get any; the fourth night being very warm, I caught about 
 four hundred ; the fifth night I got two hundred." 
 
 Bees. — To prevent them from Fighting. — To stop bees from 
 fighting and robbing one another, break the comb of the robbers, 
 so that the honey will run down among them, and tliey will go 
 to work at home. 
 
 ^r^x^vT. — To preserve Vines from Bugs — The best remedy 
 vi'/Viiavtj tried is, to plant onion-seeds with the cucumber, and, 
 , ^fter the plants are up, to sprinkle ashes on every hill, just before 
 a fall of rain, which makes a lye and kills the bugs, &c., almost 
 instantaneously ; the smell of the onions, when up, will keep the 
 flies off. We have adopted this method for a number of years, 
 not only on our vines, but on vegetables, such as beets, parsnips, 
 &;c. It promotes their growth, and loosens the earth around the 
 roots. Ashes sprinkled on young cabbages will also destroy 
 worms and increase their growth. 
 
 Another. — Lay two shingles fiat on each hill among the 
 •plants ; early in the morning, and just before night, visit them, and 
 you will find plj^nty of bugs sticking to the shingles on the under 
 side ; clap them together, and the slaughter is sudden and im- 
 mense. 
 
 To preserve Corn from Crows. — Take after the rate of one 
 pound of copperas to a bushel of seed-corn, dissolve in water, 
 and sprinkle the corn with it ; the corn may, at the same time, 
 be rolled in plaster. 
 
 This experiment has been tried for three years, with great sue- 
 - cess, by a veteran farmer. 
 
 Another. — Soak a IV-w quarts of corn in whiskey, and scatter 
 it over tlie field for the crows, who, after partaking one such 
 meal, and getting pretty thoroughly cor7ied, will never return to 
 it aijain. 
 
 Hawks. — To prevent their Depredations. — One or more 
 Guinea hens in a flock of fowls, it is said, will effectually pre- 
 vent molestation from hawks. 
 
 Hops. — How to protect from In.'^ects. — Mr. John Hobbs, of 
 St. Ives, Cornwall, effects the destruction of all the small insect 
 tribes which infest the hop-plrmt, l)y the erection of rails of a 
 particular construction, smear<;d over with cold tar, or the satu- 
 ration of the poles with a solulion of copperas. 
 
u 
 
 Insects. — Tu dt'sirdy Insects on Plaiitci. — Tie up some flour 
 of sulphur in a piece of mvisiin or fine linen, and wiih this the 
 leaves of young shoots of plants should l^e dusted ; or it may be 
 thrown on them by means of a common swairs-down puil", or 
 even by a dredging-box. 
 
 Insects in Orchards. — Worms and insects in orchards may 
 be destroyed by allowing swine to run beneath the trees. As 
 fast as the wormy and immature fruit falls, they will eat them, 
 worms and all. 
 
 Worms and Gnibs. — A mixture of salt and saltpetre (nitre), 
 in proportion of eight parts of the former to one of the latter, 
 applied about the roots, will, it is said, destroy the worms and 
 greatly promote the health and thrift of tlie tree. 
 
 Bone-Dust. — Thirty busliels of bone-dust, and seventy bush- 
 els of ashes, mixed well together, is enough for an acre of tur- 
 nips, the which, after being evenly spre^ad, should be harrowed 
 in before sowing the seed. 
 
 To render old and barren Orchards fhrifty and productive. 
 — Early in the spring plough the entire orchard and enrich with . 
 a compost of manure, swamp-muck, lime, and sea-manure. 
 Scrape off all the old bark with a deck-scraper, or a hoe, ground 
 sharp. Apply half a bushel of slacked lime, and the same of 
 charcoal, around each tree. Apply then soft soap, or strong soap- 
 suds, on the trunks and limbs, as high as a man can reach. 
 While the trees are in full bloom, throw over them a good pro- 
 portion of fine slacked lime. 
 
 Class II. 
 
 Calves. — Keeping Calves loith Sheep. — We have often rec- 
 ommended the keeping of calves with sheep, as v/e have founds 
 it an excellent plan, and highly approvc^d of by others who have 
 tried it. In this way there is less trouble, and the calves keep in 
 fine condition upon the coarse part of the fodder which the sheep 
 leave. In such cases, calves are never afflicted with vermin, and 
 if any are on them before, they will soon disappear after the 
 calves are among the sheep. 
 
 Cattle. — To relieve choked Cattle and Hogs. — Raise the fore 
 foot to relax the muscles of the leg ; then tie a bit of whip-cord, 
 drum-line, or other strong string, round the arm, just above the 
 knee ; let go the foot, and if the horse or cow does not put it to 
 the ground, a quick stroke with the v,'hip will make it do so, and 
 the operation is performed, and the animal relieved. 
 
15 
 
 Ajwthcr, — Tie the heads of cxitlle down, and it will prevent 
 their choking. 
 
 Cattle. — Feedings c^-r. — If all the grain fed out to stock were 
 chopped, a saving of at least twenty-live per cent, in the quantity 
 consumed might be made. The catde would thrive better, as 
 the food would be converted into nutriment without making so 
 violent a demand upon the digestive organs. 
 
 How to save in feeding Horses. — Bruise or crush your oats 
 in a mill, or otherwise, as convenient, and your horse will be- 
 come fatter on half its usual allowance, than on double the 
 quantity unprepared. If you cannot bruise the oats, pour hot 
 water upon them and let them soak for a few hours. 
 
 Horses. — Salting Horses., Sf'c. — A good lump should be kept 
 in a box by the side of every animal, without fear that it will 
 ever be taken in excess. 
 
 Horses. — Feeding ivitJi Oats^ ^'C. — Vve were lately told by 
 the proprietor of an extensive liveiy stable, that he had the experi- 
 ence of several years in feeding the yellow carrots to his horses, 
 and that he considers them the most valuable articles for winter 
 food that he ever used. He considers a peck of carrots and a 
 peck of oats worth more for a horse than half a bushel of oats. 
 
 Horses. — Marks of., S^c. 
 
 One white foot, buy him ; 
 
 Two white feet, try him ; 
 
 Three white feet, deny him ; 
 
 Four white feet and a white nose, 
 
 Take off his hide and throw him to the crows. 
 
 Colts. — To prevent them Chewing their Halter. — Take the 
 scab from the wart or issue on the inside of the leg, rub the hal- 
 ter thoroughly with that, and they will not be caught chewing 
 their halter very soon. I have tried pepper, tobacco, &c., but 
 nothing to so good a purpose as their own or kindred musk. 
 
 Hens. — Feed with Oats., ^'C. — Hens will, it is said, be sure 
 to furnish an extra quantity of eggs, if you deal to each about a 
 gill of oats per day. 
 
 Hens. — How to protect from Vermin. — A gentleman from 
 Hanover requests us to state the fact, that pennyroyal woven in 
 their nests, will perfectly and certainly protect hens from vermin. 
 He generally makes the nest entirely of this strong-scented herb. 
 
 Foiols. — To fatten. — Corfme your fowls in a large and airy 
 inclosure, and feed tliem on broken Indian corn, Indian meal, or 
 mu^3h, with raw potatoes cat into email pieces ^ not larger than a 
 
46 
 
 filbert, placing within their reach a quantity of charcoal broken 
 into small pieces. Boiled rice is also good. 
 
 Another, — It is astonishing with what rapidity fowls increase 
 when well fed, kept in confined cribs, and in a darkened room. 
 Fed on a mixture of 4 lbs. of oatmeal, 1 of suet, and half a 
 pound of sugar, with milk for drink, five or six times a day in 
 summer, a Dorking will add to its weight 2 lbs. in a week, some- 
 times 1| in four days. A young turkey will lay on 3 lbs. a week, 
 under the same treatment. 
 
 Another. — K. friend inquires, " Which is the best grain for 
 feeding fowls, eggs being the object } " 
 
 Fowls require a vrtriety of food. Grain of all kinds is good. 
 Wheat-screenings^ which can be had at all the mills where wheat 
 is ground, constitute a good and ciieap food for fowls. Buck- 
 wheat, barley, oats, and Indian corn should also be given occa- 
 sionally. They should also have animal food. This may be 
 supplied from the ofials of slaughter-houses. If they are kept 
 confined, they should have occasionally some cabbages cut up 
 and given them. Potatoes and turnips will also be found useful. 
 Keep them well supplied with gravel, pebbles, water, sand, ashes, - 
 &c., to dust themselves with. 
 
 Geese. — Feeding Geese., S^'C. — An experiment has lately been 
 tried of feeding goese with turnips, cut up fine and put into a 
 trough with water. The efi'ect was, that six geese, weighing only 
 nine pounds each, after three weeks' feeding with this food 
 alone, weighed fifteen pounds each. 
 
 Sheep. — Hovj to give them an Appetite. — Give to your sheep 
 pine boughs once or twice a week ; they will create appetite, 
 prevent disease, and increase their health. 
 
 Swine. — Substitute for Ringing. — A Mr. Tub, an English 
 breeder of stock, has recommended a mode of dealing with these 
 mischievous animals, which it is said may supersede the necessi- 
 ty of putting rings into their nose. It consists simply of shaving 
 off, with a razor or sharp knife, the gristle on the top of the noses 
 of the young ; this place soon lieals over, and the pigs are thus 
 rendered incapable of rooting. 
 
 Poison. — Cure for Poison. — It is said that a gill of melted 
 lard poured down the throat of a sheep poisoned by eating laurel, 
 a shrub that retains its foliage in winter, and grows abundantly 
 on the margin of some of our streams, and in mountainous dis- 
 tricts," is a certain cure. 
 
 Cattle are sometimes poisoned by eating the same shrub. 
 
47 
 
 AVould not tho same remedy, in larger portions, be equally 
 efficient ? 
 
 Ohitmenl foi' CaitJe. — Excellent ointment for cattle can be 
 ^made by taking ef|ual parts of Venice tnrpentine and hog's lard 
 well beaten together. 
 
 Milk Spreading. — This may be remedied by pressing the teat 
 full of milk again.st a stone, and rubbing it smartly. 
 
 Salt for Stock. — When animals are first turned to grass, they 
 need more salt than at other seasons ; at least we infer this, as 
 they eat it more freely. 
 
 Corn soaked for Sicinc. — Soak corn till fermentation is pro- 
 duced, and it will make excellent food for hogs. 
 
 Class III. 
 
 Trees.-— Trnnsplaniing.^ ^yc. — The trees to be removed are 
 selected, the shuations chosen, and the holes dug, while the 
 ground'is yet open, in autumn. Then, just before the ground is 
 frozen, dig a trench at some distance around the tree to be re- 
 moved, gradually undermining it, and leaving all the mass of 
 roots embedded in the ball of earth ; the whole ball is then left 
 Ao freeze ])re4ty thoroughly, (generally till snow covers the 
 ground,) when the ball of earth containing the tree is rolled upon 
 a sled and transplanted to the hole previously prepared, where it 
 is placed in its proper position ; and as soon as the weather be- 
 comes mild, the earth is filled hi around the ball. On return of 
 grov/th, the trees scarcely show any eiTects from being removed. 
 
 Trees. — To prevent Young Trees from hecoming Hide-hound., 
 — An excellent mode for preventing young fruit-trees from be- 
 coming hide-bound and mossy, and for promoting their health 
 . and growth, is to take a bucket of soft soap, and apply it with a 
 brush or old cloth, to the- trunks, from top to bottom ; this cleanses 
 tlie bark, and destroys the worms, or the eggs of insects, and the 
 soap, becoming dissolved by rains, descends to the roots, and 
 causes the tree to grow vigoro\isly. 
 
 Trees. — To form a Neiv Bark on Old Trees. — Scrape the 
 loose bark, and "pply a mixture of cow-dung and urine, made 
 into the consistency of paint. Apply the mixture with a paint- 
 brush. This softens the old, scaly bark, which peels off the fol- 
 lowing spring, and is succeeded by fme, new, smooth bark. 
 
 Trees. — To keep away the Borer. — Coalpit dust, I think, has 
 proved beneficial to my fruit-trees, by placing a few shovelfuls 
 about the roots of each tree ; it keeps away the grass, j)revcnls 
 
48 
 
 the borer from entering the bark, and, withal, makes an excellent 
 manure. 
 
 Trees. — Setting Trees. — In setting trees, do not place them 
 deep, and let the earth around tlicm remain concave, that it may 
 catch the water. 
 
 Planting Forest-Trees. — The best time for planting acorns, 
 walnuts, as well as peaches, cherries, and other stone fruits, is in 
 the fall of the year, as soon as they are ripe. If they are kept 
 long after becoming thoroughly ripe, they are apt to lose their 
 vegetative principle. 
 
 Trees. — To preserve from Mice, Rohbifs., Moles, ^c. — Take 
 any quantity of tar, and si^ or seven times as much grease, stir- 
 ring and mixing them well together ; with this composition, brush 
 the stems of young trees as high as rabbhs, &c. can reach, and 
 it will prevent their being barked. 
 
 Grafting. — Time of Grafting. — The most favorable time for 
 grafting is from the time the bucls are bursting till the tree is in 
 full foliage. Scions take well at this season, and being set soon 
 after veg^-tation commences, they will attain a good growth. But 
 though this may be the most favorable time, yet the work may 
 be attended to for a longer period, as circumstances require, tt - 
 may be commenced the first of March, and continued till the first 
 of August. 
 
 Trees. — Budding, Src. — If stocks are young and very thrifty, 
 it will be in season to commence budding the first of August, for 
 if they are set earlier they will be likely to start the present sea- 
 son, and then liable to be winter-killed. In this way some have 
 suffered great loss for want of experience. If trees be rather 
 old and of slow growth, they should be budded the latter part of 
 July ; but the better way is to put all stocks in a very thrifty 
 condition before budding or grafting. 
 
 Scions. — Evciy fruit-grower should get his scions ready in 
 due season. Wrap them in a moistened mat or cloth, put them 
 in a close box, and keep them in a cool cellar. We have scions 
 cut last October, which w^e can keep in good condition till next 
 fall. Keep the mat moist. If the scions mould, it will do no 
 harm. 
 
 Grafting. — Composition for. — Take one part of tallow, two 
 parts of beeswax, and four parts of rosin. Melt the whole to- 
 gether ; turn the mixture into water, and work it in the hands as 
 the shoemaker does his wax, to incorporate the parts. The 
 warmth of the hand will soon bring it to a proper consistency 
 
49 
 
 when wanted for use, and a liLlle grease will prevent its adhering 
 to the fingers. A small piece is broken off, flattened in the hand, 
 and covered over the cleft or wound. If of the thickness of a 
 shilling, it will neither melt, crack, nor peel off. 
 
 To preserve Apples and Pears. — Wipe the fruit dry, then 
 take a varnished crock or wide-mouthed jar, at the bottom of 
 which is \Q be a layer of line and very dry sand ; on this place a 
 layer of fi'uit, and so .alternately fruit and sand, until the crock 
 or jar is full. Put a thick coat of sand on the top, and place it in 
 a diy place. Apples or pears thus treated will keep good all 
 winter. 
 
 Seeds. — Hmv to preserve., 4'c., for Planting. — Mix the seeds 
 with clean sand, which should be occasionally slightly moistened, 
 to prevent the seeds from drying, and put in a cool place. The 
 seeds of stone fruit, sliould not become much dried internally. 
 Expose them sutTiciently to evaporate the external atmosphere, 
 and pack as above. 
 
 Corn. — Soak your Seed Corn in Saltpetre. — It destroys the 
 worm, is not relished by crows or by squirrels, and yields much 
 more abundantly than when it is planted without. 
 
 Suckers in Corn not to he cut. — An anonymous Avriter in the 
 American Farmer asserts, that, from careful experiments, he is 
 satisfied that suckers do not lessen the quantity of grain, whilst 
 they greatly increase th.e amount of fodder. 
 
 Corn. — Rule for measiiring Corn in the Ear in a Crih. — 
 Multiply the length, v/idth, and depth of the bin together, and 
 their product by 4h. Cut off the right hand figure, and the re- 
 maining figures will be the nu)nl)er of "bushels of shelled corn, 
 and the figure at the ri^ht the decimal of a bushel. 
 
 Wheat. — Rust in Wheat. — This seems to take place when it 
 is nearly ripe, after a heavy shower of rain, succeeded by an in- 
 tensel)'- warm sun. The straw then bursts, and. the sap exudes. 
 This is the cause of rust. Steeping the seed in strong brine 
 twelve hours, and then sifting lime over it, is the best pre- 
 ventive. 
 
 Silh--wonns. — Noise dislm'hs them. -— A friend of ours, who 
 lias had much experience in managing silk-worms, says that noise 
 disturbs thein, especially at the time of moulding. The se^«nd 
 of a hammer, a burst of laughter, or loud talking, distur^'^ them. 
 Their food should be gently laid dov/n by them, no' ^^^^'own on 
 them. He uses as much caution in entering ^'"^ i'ooms as if 
 approaching the cradle of a sick infant. 
 5 
 
50 
 
 Maple Sugar. — - The art of making this article is veiy impef^ 
 fectly understood, and great improvements can and ought to be 
 made in the manufacture of it< The diifercnce in the yield of 
 sugar from a given quantity of sap is owing to its possessing 
 more or less acid, which lessens tlic quantity of sugar, and in- 
 jures the quality. Thiy acid is corrected by putting into the 
 sap, when used, one ounce of limewater to every gallon, when 
 it will uniformly produce half a pound of sugar to the gallon, 
 of better quality than it would without limewater. 
 
 Another. — My manner of m.uking sugar is, to have tubs, and 
 all connected with sugar-making, clean and sweet. My next ob- 
 ject is, to boil as soon as possible after the sap has run from the 
 trees ; in clarifying, I use for fifty pounds of sugar one pint of 
 skimmed milk, put into the syrup when cold, and put over a 
 moderate fire until it rises, which should occupy thirty or forty 
 minutes, then skim and boil until it grains or sugars ; after 
 which I turn it into a tub, and after tv.o or tliree weeks bore a 
 hole in the bottom of the tub, and turn on a little cold water ; 
 and in a few dnys the molasses will drain out, and leave the sugar 
 dry, light, and white. 
 
 Casks. — Foul Casks Made Clean. — Tainted wooden casks of 
 every description may be rendered perfectly sweet and whole- 
 some by washing them v.ith diluted sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) 
 and water, and afterwards with limewater, and then pure water. 
 
 Water. — How to cleanse, — Ha.li' an ounce of alum in pow- 
 der will completely purify twelve gallons of corrupted ^ater. 
 
 Potatoes. — To keep from Sprouting.' — Fill a basket with po- 
 tatoes ; dip them into a large cauldron of boiling w ater for the 
 space of two minutes ; take them out, spread and dry them well 
 in the sun ; then pack them in barrels or hogsheads, and cover 
 them v/ith sand. They will remain in excellent preservation for 
 a long time. This method is particularly recommended to mas- 
 ters of vessels and others preparing for sea. 
 
 7o cure Poison. — It is stated that poison on llie hands, or 
 other parts, occasioned by the running ivy, or ])oison-vine, may 
 be cured l)v rubbing the part affected a few tiiues with hog's lard. 
 
 Manure for Melons. — The ])est is pigeon-dung, and from the 
 Ub« of this, it is said, ihf Pr^rsian fruit derives its superiority. 
 Hen-^*ing is jn-obably next in value, and after this, guano, which 
 is the nuu.,j.p Qf sea- fowls. 
 
 Cheap rnt>.. j-^^ ^ Barn. — An excellent and choap paint for 
 rough wood-worKjg ^^^^ ^^ ,.;^. pfj,jj^,j,. (,f jr,eii''d ])itch, one 
 pint cf lia^-eed oi!, ^.^ ^^^ ^^^^.^i ,.^. i^i-;..]- ,],,,^ ,^,^ ^^,\\^,y ..^hye. 
 
 "-V 
 
51 
 
 Sunflower. — It is said of this imornamental but useful flow" 
 er, that it is destined to become one of our most valuable agri- 
 cultural products. One hundred pounds of the seed aiibrd forty- 
 pounds of oil. The refuse of the seeds, after expression, fur- 
 nishes on excellent food for cattle. From the leaves of the 
 plant, cigars are manufactured of singular qualities ; the stalk 
 affords a superior alkali, and the comb of the seeds is a choice 
 daintv for swine. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 FARM AND DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 
 
 Neat Cattle. — ■ Rules in Selecting^ ^-c. — Neat cattle form a 
 very important part in every farmer's live stock. In selecting 
 them, two things are very material : first, the health and sound- 
 ness of the stock from which they are purchased ; and, secondly, 
 the quality of the soil on the produce of which it is intended to 
 feed them. Stock for the dairy or the butcher should be selected 
 from a breed of which you know or can ascertain every par- 
 ticular relative to their general health and soundness, and the 
 manner in which they have been reared, including their food, 
 shelter, &;c. 
 
 How to determine the Age of Cattle. — The eight fore teeth 
 of the lower jaw are shed and replaced by others, which con- 
 tinue through life ; the two middle fore teeth fall out at aboilt two 
 years old, and are succeeded by others not so white. At three 
 years old they have two more, next to those of the previous 
 year ; and thus by the two succeeding years all the fore teeth 
 are renewed ; they are then termed full-mouthed, and are live 
 years old. At the sixth year the row is even, the last two being 
 completely up. Besides these, they have ten grinders in each 
 jaw. 
 
 Feeding Cattle^ ^-c. — With respect to feeding, the first rule 
 is, little at a time, and often; because experience has shown that 
 animals tliat eat much in a short time do not fatten eo well as 
 
52 
 
 those which eat less but more frequently. The second rule is, 
 to begin the course with cabbage and turnips, then to employ- 
 carrots and potatoes, and lastly, Indian, oat, or barley meal. 
 These aliments ought to be varied several times a day, and often- 
 er if convenient ; and instead of always reducing them to a meal, 
 there is advantage in sometimes boiling them. A little salt given 
 daily is very useful. 
 
 Watering Cattle. — Water for cattle, in winter, should be 
 furnished in a trough that stands in a pleasant place and out of 
 the wind. Cattle will not drink half the usual allowance when 
 obliged to stand in a cold wind. They will seldom put them- 
 selves to much inconvenience to procure drink more than once in 
 a day, but when it is handy they will drink several times. 
 
 Confining Cattle. — ^ No kind of cattle should be sutfered to 
 stroll over the fields or in the roads in the winter season. They 
 gain nothing by it but the ill-will of neighbors and of travellers, 
 who are often impeded on their journey by a drove of dumb 
 loafers, sunning themselves in the streets. On the contrary, we 
 lose immensely by suHering the manure to be scattered and fro- 
 zen in winter. We should by all means conline them in the 
 yard during the da}'', and let them enrich the soil or muck that 
 we had the prudence to throw into it in autumn, after it was 
 cleared of the old manure. 
 
 Carding Cattle. — Many speak highly of the practice of card- 
 ing through the winter, but we cannot say that we have ever seen 
 any advantages attending it. Some good ostlers will not permit 
 a hair to be carded otf in cold weather. They say thei^ horses 
 want their coats on in the winter season. The carding of neat 
 cattle in winter sets them to itching and rubbing, and they seem 
 more uneasy for the operation. We doubt whether we may not 
 better let their hair remain until spring, when the warm weather 
 will assist to disrobe them. 
 
 Fall Feeding. — Cattle in New England usually get their own 
 food through the month of October, but when the season is very 
 dry, we sometimes feed them with the toppings of the corn, and 
 in some cases we have given them hay. We have known the 
 seasons so favorable that cattle would take good care of themselves 
 throuo-liout November, and this reduces our winter or feeding 
 months to five months and a half, down to the middle of May. 
 
 Oxen. — Sigiis of a Good Ox. — Till oxen are four years old, 
 the)^ are usually called steers ; afterwards, oxen. The signs of 
 a good ox are these : thick, soft, smooth, and sliort liair ; a short 
 
• 53 
 
 and thick head ; glossy, smooth horns ; large and shaggy ears ; 
 wide forehead ; full, black eyes ; wide nostrils ; black lips ; a 
 thick, fleshy neck, and large shoulders ; broad reins ; a large 
 belly ; thick rump and thighs ; a straight back ; a long tail, well 
 covered with hair ; short and broad hoofs. The best colors are 
 brown, dark red, and brindlcid. When an ox has completed his 
 eighth year, he should be fattened. 
 
 To precent their Necks from becoming Sore. — If oxen are 
 worked in the yoke in wet weather, their necks are apt to become 
 sore. To prevent this, a little tallow should be rubbed on the 
 parts of the voke which lie upon their necks, and also on the 
 bows. 
 
 On Carding Oxen. — An English writer recommends carding 
 oxen, and says, " The ox, after the sensation becomes familiar, 
 receives pleasure from the operation, and will momentarily fore- 
 go his meal to receive the full enjoyment." This is not our 
 faith. 
 
 The proper Care of them. — Their labor and their fodder 
 ought to be proportioned, that their health and their spirits may 
 be kept in full tone. Their coats^ ought to be sleek ; their hides 
 loose and silky ; the~ flank should fill the hand, and the shoulder 
 handle mellow. If they be overworked or underfed, sluggish- 
 ness and disease will inevitably follow. A working ox ought 
 always to be beef that in case of accident he may be fit for the 
 table. 
 
 To prevent their Pushing and Croivding. — Oxen sometimes 
 contract a bad habit of pulling or hauling against each other ; 
 and sometimes crowd each other, so as to render them almost 
 entirely useless as laborers. It is said that by turning them out 
 to feed in the yoke, they will learn to move in concert, and thus 
 be broken of the habits of pulling and crowding. 
 
 On Training Oxen to draw. — Let them be yoked and turned 
 out to feed, with a load attached to them so heavy as to require 
 them to act in concert to drag it. They v>-ill soon learn ;o pail 
 together, and be true to the yoke. 
 
 Ox Teams. — For rough farms, oxen are much to be preferred 
 to horses. They travel more steadily, and are more paiient on 
 the plough, than the horse is, and when they have lived long 
 enough, they are valuable for the butcher. Oxen will not work 
 so many hours in a day as a horse will, but they are more to be 
 depended on in the draught. They bear to be driven about two 
 miles an hour, and if they are inclined to go slower than this, 
 5* 
 
54 
 
 they should be put up to it. Fewer oxen are now used on farms 
 that are cleared of their stumps and stones, tlian formerly ; and 
 for travelling on the road, the horse is now universally preferred. 
 It is not an object, in general, to raise the largest kinds of oxen. 
 The middle size is best, and we must take care to choose for 
 teams such as are best built. Though strength is a great point 
 in working oxen, we do not prefer those that have the largest 
 bones. We notice that those oxen travel best which have the 
 straightest limbs, and we never wish to see an ox with long legs. 
 
 On a middle-sized farm, one yoke of oxen at least, and one 
 horse, should be kept. There are many kinds of business, where 
 oxen and horj^es may be used together to advantage, and one of 
 the prettiest teams on a farm is a yoke of oxen and a horse. 
 They travel faster than four oxen, and the horse always makes a 
 good leader for the team. 
 
 Bulls. — Signs of a Good Bull. — Head long ; eyes promi- 
 nent and lively ; ears long, and horns wide ; broad breast, and 
 projecting before the legs ; legs clean, and fine-boned ; back or 
 loin broad, straight, and flat ; round or barrel carcass ; rumps 
 close to the tail, and tail well haired and in a horizontal line with 
 the back. Bulls should be well fed, and. kept in suitable in- 
 closures. The bull is in his prime at three years of age, and 
 should not be used after he is eight or nine. 
 
 Working Cows. — Best Kind. — Cows are fattened easier, 
 and are better laborers, than oxen. The uses of cattle are to 
 work, milk, and fatten. I have seen barren cows work as well 
 as oxen ; thcp require less keep, and loalk faster. When first I 
 commenced farming, I followed the example of my predecessor 
 in feeding chiefly oxen ; but I soon found that cows fattened 
 much faster, and on less meal, and for some years past I have 
 carefully avoided having any oxen in my stalls. 
 
 Care of Coivs about to calve. — Cows which are shortly ex- 
 pected to calve ought to be lodged at night in some convenient 
 place, under cover, for a week or too before calving, as it might 
 be the means of saving the life of the calf, and perhaps of the 
 dam likewise. The day and night after a cow has calved, she 
 should be kept under cover, and her drink should be lukewarm. 
 Let her not be exposed for some time to the dampness of the 
 night. 
 
 Cows which are near calving ought to be fed with better and 
 more substantial food than usual. Grain of any kind is now 
 useful, but it should be crushed, bruised, or coarsely ground. If 
 
the cleaning of a cow, after calving, be delayed, it may be pro- 
 moted by giving her a pail of warm water with some ashes in it. 
 
 Cow-Stables. — The most healthy stables are those which are 
 open to tlie east, or have an eastern aspect. It is a common 
 practice to build them too close. The stable should never be 
 completely closed up, however cold the weather may be, although 
 it is desirable that strong draughts of cold or damp air should be 
 guarded against, especially in winter. It may be held as a gen- 
 eral rule, tliat stables or cow-houses are too close when, on en- 
 tering, the breath is affected, or any smell of urine can be 
 perceived. 
 
 Cleanliness. — It is also very important to keep cow-houses or 
 cattle-stables clean and well littered. Dung left in stables soon 
 renders the air unwholesome, and is the cause of disorders. 
 Cows in a stable should be allowed a square space of at least six 
 feet each way for each cow. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF THE COW. 
 
 The Dairy, or Milch Cow. — Qualities. — Tameness and 
 docility of temper greatly enhance her value. One that is quiet 
 and contented, feeds at ease, does not break over fences, or hurt 
 herself or other cattle, will always yield more milk than those 
 that are of a turbulent disposition. To render them docile, they 
 ought to be gently treated, frequently handled when young, and 
 never struck or frightened. Some degree of hardiness, however, 
 a sound constitution, and a moderate degree _of life and spirits, 
 are qualities to be wished for in a milch cow, and what those of 
 Ayrshire generally possess. Some have thought thar a cow liv- 
 ing on a small quantity of food was a valuable quality ; hut that 
 will depend upon the quantity of milk given by the cow that eats 
 little, compared with those that eat much. If the cov/ that eats 
 little gives as much milk as the one that eats more, it certainly is 
 a valuable quality ; but of this I entertain doubts, which forty 
 years' experience and observation have served to confirm. Spec- 
 ulative writers affirm that some cows will fatten as well, and 
 yield as much milk, when fed on coarse, as others will do on rich 
 
56 
 
 food. Cows that have been reared and fed on coarse pasture 
 will yield some milk of a good quality, and from which the best 
 butter may be extracted ; while a cow that has been reared and 
 fed on much better pasture would, if turned on that which is bad, 
 give scarcely any milk. 
 
 Selecting a Cow. — With persons living in towns and villages, 
 and keeping but a single cow, with opportunity of grazing on the 
 commons, and depending mainly on them for food, a good rule 
 is to get their cow not over the middle size, and from a poorer 
 district of country. If she comes from rich, fertile pastures, she 
 will fall off in her milk, below the quantity which they were as- 
 assured she had been accustomed to give, and thus disappoint 
 him. If from a poorer district, with the addition of the " slop " 
 from the house and kitchen, and the external signs here laid down^ 
 she will be sure to improve. But if a cow that has been accus- 
 tomed to feed on bad pasture be put on that which is better, she 
 will greatly increase in milk, and fatten much faster. If two cows 
 of the same age and condition, and which have been reared and 
 fed on food of equal quality, are put, the one on bad food, and the 
 other on that which is good, the latter will yield four times the 
 milk, and fatten four times faster, than the former. A cow need 
 not always be fed on green clover, cabbages, and cauliflower ; 
 but she will neither fatten nor yield milk if she gets no better fare 
 than rushes, bent, and sage grass. 
 
 Signs of a Good Cow. — In selecting cows for the dairy, the 
 following indications should be attended to. Wide horns, a thin 
 head and neck, dewlap large, full breast, broad back, large, deep 
 belly ; the udder capacious, but not too fleshy ; the milk veins 
 prominent, and the bag tending far behind ; teats long and large ; 
 buttocks broad and fleshy ; tail long, pliable, and small in pro- 
 portion to the size of the carcass, and the joints sliort. 
 
 We ofler the following doggerel lines, as combining what are 
 popularly considered the good points of a cow, such as is com- 
 mon among the short- horned breed of Yorkshire : — 
 
 " She 's long- iu her face, she 's fine in her horn, 
 She '11 quickly get fat without cake or corn ; 
 She 's clean in her jaws, and full in her chine, 
 She *s heavy iu flank, and wide iu her loin. 
 
 "She's hroad in her ribs, and long in her rump, 
 A straight and flat back, without e'er a hump ; 
 She's wide in her hips, and calm in her eyes, 
 She's fine in her shoulders, and tliin in her thighs. 
 
" She's lifrht in her neck, and small in her tail, 
 She 's wide in her breast, and pood at the pail ; 
 She's fine in her bone, and siiky of skin, — 
 She 's a grazier's without, and a l)utcher's within." 
 
 Times and Manner of Milking. — Cows should be milked reg- 
 ularly morning and evening, and as nearly as may be at the 
 same hours. At six in the morning and six at nig'iit is a good 
 general rule, as the times of milking will be equidistant from 
 each other. But if they are milked tKree times a day, as Dr. 
 Anderson recommended, the times may be five, one, and eight. 
 He asserted that, if cows are full fed, they will give half as much 
 again if milked three times as if only twice. At the same time, 
 it would prevent too great a distention of their bags, to which the 
 best cows are liable. 
 
 Time of Calving., Sfc. — The cow goes with young nine calen- 
 dar months, or 270 days ; but this length of time is liable to vari- 
 ation, from the effect of circumstances. A calf is most likely to 
 survive and be healthy which has gone exactly the nine months. 
 Cows come into season at different periods of the year, in which 
 state they remain for a few days, after which the affection ceases, 
 but it afterwards returns in three or four weeks. The farmer 
 watches these periods, and permits the company of the bull at 
 such a time as will produce the young at a time of the year when 
 grass is plentiful for the nourishment of the motlier. This should 
 bo an advanced period of spring, for the cow will require nour- 
 ishing diet some time before she drops her calf, as well as 
 afterward. 
 
 Time of Drying up the Coic. — A cow may be kept in milk 
 up to the time of her calving, by daily taking a quantity from 
 her ; but this is most injurious to the fa3tus, and the excitement 
 of the new upon the old milk is apt to produce local inflammation. 
 In towns, where dairymen care nothing for the calf, and must 
 have milk at all risks, cows are often maltreated by being milked 
 to the last ; but no one who conducts a dairy on proper princi- 
 ples will be guilty of this inhumanity. The best plan is to allow 
 the cow to grow gradually dry, and not milk her at all for six 
 or eight weeks before calving. 
 
 Abortion. — No animal is so liable to abortion as the cow, and 
 it has been found that the habit is infectious ; and when once it 
 h£is got among a parcel of cows, it can be banished only with the 
 greatest difficulty. Caws addicted to this practice should be fat- 
 tened and sent to nirarket. 
 
53 
 
 Parturition, — If in a state of health, no difficuhy will occur 
 at the parturition ; but should the case be otherwise, we prefer 
 leaving the cow-keeper to ask assistance from a person of prac- 
 tical skill, or veterinary surgeon, than to ofler any speculative ad- 
 vices on the subject. 
 
 Treatment after Calving. — A warm mash should be put be- 
 fore her, and warm gruel, or water from which some of the 
 coldness has been taken off. Two or three hours afterwards, it 
 will be prudent to give an aperient drink, consisting of a pound 
 of Epsom salts and two drachms of ginger. This may tend to 
 prevent milk fever and garget in the udder. 
 
 Attention to the Teats and Bag. — If the teats are sore, and 
 the bag generally hard and tender, she should be gently but 
 carefully milked three or four times every day. The natural 
 and the effectual preventive of this, however, is to let the calf 
 suck her at least three times in the day, if it is tied up in the 
 cow-house, or to run with her in the pasture, and take the teat 
 when it pleases. The tendency to inflammation of the udder is 
 much diminished by the calf frequently sucking ; or should the 
 cow be feverish, nothing soothes or quiets her so much as the 
 presence of the little one. 
 
 Coio Feeding. — The cov/ requires to be supplied with an 
 abundance of food, not to make her fat, which is not desirable, 
 but to keep up a regular secretion of milk in the system. The 
 feeding must be regular, from early morning till night, and pure 
 water must also be offered at proper intervals, if the cow has not 
 tlie liberty of going to the water herself. 
 
 Regarding the nature of the food of cows, although soiling, 
 or artificial feeding in the house, is at all times economical, there 
 can be no doubt that the best milk and butter are produced by 
 cows fed on natural pasture ; and, although the quantity of milk 
 is not so great, yet the butter has a sweet taste, never to be dis- 
 covered in the produce of soiled cows. 
 
 Soiling out and in doors. — On well-inclosed farms, it is the 
 custom of many to keep their cows out both night and day, from 
 May till the end of October, so long as a full bite can be obtained ; 
 and some bring them into the house twice a day to be milked. 
 Soiling, or feeding entirely in the house or court-yard, is but sel- 
 dom practised, except by some farmers in arable districts. 
 
 Quantity and Quality of Milk. — The quantity and quality 
 of the milk will be in proportion to the nourishment in the food. 
 White turnips afford a <]i:''>ed quantity of milk, but iliey Impart a 
 
59 
 
 very disagreeable taste, which may be removed, however, by 
 steaming or boiling tlie turnips, or by putting a small quantity of 
 dissolved saltpetre into the milk when newly drawn. 
 
 Brewers'' (rrains, ^-c. — Brewers' grains are said to produce 
 a large quantity of milk, but very thin, the quality beiiig some- 
 what similar to that sold in large towns, yielding neither good 
 cream nor butter. It has been found of some importance to feed 
 cows frequently, — three or four times a day in summer, and live 
 or six in winter, — and to give them no more at a time than they 
 can eat cleanly. 
 
 In establishments for the supT)lying of large towns with milk, 
 the method of feeding is somewhat different ; there the practice is 
 to feed them chiefly on distillers' wash, brewers' grains, and every 
 sort of liquid stuiT that will produce a large quantity of milk, 
 without reference to its quality. 
 
 Winter Food for Cows. — A recent writer publishes the fol- 
 lowing receipt, by the use of wliich his cows afforded him an 
 equal quantity and qualitij of milk during the winter as during 
 the summer : — 
 
 " Take a bushel of potatoes, break them while raw, place 
 them in a barrel standing up, putting in, successively, a layer of 
 bran and a small quantity of yeast in the middle of the mass, 
 which is left thus to ferment during a whole week, and when the 
 vinous taste has pervaded the wdiple mixture, it is then given to 
 the cows, wdio eat it greedily." 
 
 Parsnips cause cows to give milk in abundance, and that of 
 the best quality. 
 
 The Profit of Cows. — The keeping of cows is very profita- 
 ble. Allowing one to give only six quarts a day, for forty weeks 
 in each year, and this is not a large allowance, her milk, at two 
 cents per quart, wdll amount to upwards of thirty-three dollars ; 
 which is probably suflicient to purcliase her, and pay for a year's 
 keeping. 
 
 A farmer, some years since, kept eighteen cows on a com- 
 mon, and was often obliged to buy butter for his family. The 
 common was inclosed, and the same person supplied his family 
 amply with milk and butter from the produce of four cows well 
 kept. 
 
 Cow-house. — The cow-house should be airy and w^ell venti- 
 lated ; of moderate temperature, and kept ver}^ clean. The 
 stalls for the cows should be paved with smooth stones, sloping 
 gently towards the foot, where there should be a clear run of 
 
60 
 
 a gutter to carry off the urine to a pit outside. The stalls must 
 be daily scraped and swept, and all refuse carried out to the 
 dung-heap. In general, far too little litter is allowed. The cow 
 should liave plenty of straw bedding, kept in a cleanly condition ; 
 and this, when soiled, is to be mixed with the dung for manure. 
 The only fastening for the cow should bo a chain to go round the 
 neck, with the other end round an upright post, but easily mov- 
 able up and down, and allowing room for the animal to shift its 
 position. The feeding-manger, or stone trough, is on the ground, 
 and ought to be kept free of all impurities ; for tliough the cow 
 is not so nice as the horse, it has a disinclination for food not 
 fresh and cleanly. 
 
 Cow Cleaning. — Except in dairies of a high order, it is cus- 
 tomary to keep cows in a shamefully unclean condition. The 
 floor of their habitation is lilthy, the walls ragged and full of ver- 
 min, and the hides of the animal dusty or barkened with dirt. 
 Persons who keep cows are not aware of the loss they incur 
 from allowing them to live in this uncleanly state. Some people 
 seem to think they do quite enough for their cows if they give 
 them food and shelter ; but besides this, they require to be kept 
 very cleanly, though seldom indulged in that luxury. The cow 
 should be curried daily, like the horse ; its hide should be freed 
 from all impurities, and relieved from every thing that causes un- 
 easiness. When you see a cow rubbing itself against a post, 
 you may depend on it that the animal is ill kept, and requires 
 a good scrubbing. 
 
 Breeds of Cows. — The Short-lioi'n Durham., the Ayrslm'C, 
 and Devon breeds are those now most valued. But we think as 
 highly of some of our native breeds for dairy purpose as of 
 any other. 
 
 Calves. — Breeding and Rearing. — Best Calves for Rais- 
 ing. — The best calves for bringing up are those calved early in 
 the season, or before June. When calves are weaned, they 
 should not be suffered to be with their dams any more till fall ; 
 neither should they be pastured within sight or hearing of them. 
 It will cause them to neglect their feeding, and they will not for- 
 get their sucking. 
 
 Calves to be reared. — When calves are to be reared, some 
 permit them to riui with the cow, and take all the milk the first 
 season. But fine animals are raised without taking any milk 
 from the cow after three or four days. They should have 
 anore or Iei<s milk for about twelve weeks. They may be fed 
 
61 
 
 with skimmed milk or water-gruel after tlie tirst forinight : or 
 hay-tea may be mixed with their milk, or their milk mav be 
 mixed with meal and water. Whether calves are intended to be 
 fattened or to be reared, it is best to feed them three times a day. 
 Bat wliether they are fed two or three times, the intervals be- 
 tween their meals should be regular, and, as nearly as possible, 
 equidistant. 
 
 Calves designed for Veal. — Calves designed for veal should 
 be taken from the cow the next day after they are calved. They 
 should be permitted to suck only two teats during the first week, 
 three during the second, and should have the whole of the milk 
 the third and fourth week, at the end of which time they will be 
 fit to kill. The teats not allowed to be sucked should be pre- 
 viously milked. 
 
 Calves a Week old for Market. — Near our large markets, 
 calves are often sold at a week old, for one dollar; and there are 
 those who make a business of buying and rearing them by hand. 
 These calves arc taught to drink milk out of a dish ; and when 
 the milk is poor, meal is mixed with it, and it is given warm, 
 while the animal is quite young. \^'hen several arc in a yard 
 together, and one of them has learned to eat or to drink out 
 of a trough, the others will very soon learn from him how to 
 help themselves, and no labor is spent to teach them to drink. 
 
 Calxies nursed by their Mothers. — Calves that are nursed by 
 their mothers are, by some owners, sulTered to suck through the 
 summer; others allow tliem to suck three months, and then take 
 them away at once. Others still let the calves take half the 
 milk, for two or three months, and feed the calves with douc^h. 
 Many contend that it is best to let the calf suck no more than 
 two days. They take him away at that time, and give him new 
 milk for a while, then skim-milk with meal in it, and let him 
 have access to a field of grass. 
 
 Best Milk for Calves. — Those cows which give the greatest 
 quantity of thin milk are most profitable for suckling calves, for 
 rich milk is said not to be so proper food for calves as milk which 
 is less valuable for dairy purposes. 
 
 Of Feeding ivitk Skim- Milk. — If skim-milk is given to calves, 
 it should- be boiled and suffered to stand till it cools to the tem- 
 perature of that first given by the cow. It is better boiled 
 than when warmed only. If the milk be given too cold, it will 
 cause the calf to purge. If this is the case, put two or three 
 spoonfuls of rennet into the milk, and it will stop the looseness. 
 6 
 
6^ 
 
 If the calf is bound, pork-broth is said to be a good and safe 
 thing to put into the milk. 
 
 Calves should be kept Warm. — Moderate warmth and dry 
 lodging are of the utmost consequence to young calves ; and if 
 we would turn them to any good account, they must not be stint- 
 ed either in these or in their food. 
 
 Should be kept. Clean. — Calves cannot be kept too clean, nor 
 have fresh litter too ofteji. If they are suffered to lie on their 
 own dung and urine, they will become mangy, and scarcely ever 
 Uirive. 
 
 Wintering Calves. — More attention is required the first win- 
 ter than ever after ; not to keep the calf warm, for he seldom 
 suffers for want of warmth, wlien he is kept from the wet, and 
 we find him getting along better in an open shed, or hovel, than 
 when tied up in a close barn. 
 
 Rowen hay is better suited to his capacity of chewing, and we 
 always provide a little of that kind to give him in the fore part 
 of winter. Lie also wants something less dry than hay. Roots 
 are excellent food, and he will eat either potatoes or turnips with 
 a good relish. Two quarts of turnips^ chopped rather fine by a 
 good spade, on the barn floor, given each day, will cause him to 
 thrive the whole winter. Whereas, if nothing but hay is given, 
 he invariably ceases to advance, and he too often goes behind- 
 hand. Water should be supplied, and salt should never be for- 
 gotten. In summer, it is a preventive of relax, and in w'inter, it 
 gives a relish to his food. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 SHEEF AND LAMBS, GOATS, &C. 
 
 Varieties. — There are a great many varieties of sheep, but 
 the principal division is into the long-wool and the short-wool 
 kinds. 
 
 Management. — It is important in the management of sheep, 
 to keep the store sheep in as equal condition as possible, but not 
 too fat, all the year round. In the grass season they should be 
 kept in dry pastures, in which the grass is short and sweet. 
 During the winter they should have a steady and measured al- 
 
lowance of suitable food, and not sometimes be fed profusely, 
 and at other times scantily. 
 
 Time of Feedings Waterings 8fC. — vSheep should in the sum- 
 mer be turned out early in the morning to feed ; and in four or 
 live hours, after watering, be brought back to the fold, or to some 
 shady place. At four o'clock in the afternoon they should be 
 turned to their pasture again, and continue there till evening. 
 
 Ewes^ Lanihs^ S^c. — It is recommended to give ewes with 
 lamb a somewhat more thaii ordinary quantity of food for a 
 month or six weeks before they are expected to yean ; not 
 enough, however, to make them fat, as dangerous consequences 
 might attend their being in a veiy high condition at that period. 
 Half a gill of Indian corn a day, given to each sheep during 
 winter, is recommended, as keeping them in good heart, prevent- 
 ing the wool from falling off, and enabling the ewes to rear their 
 young better than they would if fed altogether on food of a less 
 substantial nature. 
 
 Season for Droirping. — In the season for dropping lambs, 
 the utmost care is necessary. The birth is most commonly easy, 
 but often slow. Ignorant shepherds are very apt on such oc- 
 casions to be aiding in the birth, which is always useless, and 
 often very injurious. 
 
 Time and Mode of Shearing. — The approved time of shear- 
 ing is from the middle to the latter end of June. They should 
 be washed in a warm time ; after this they should run three or 
 four days in a clean pasture, before they are shorn. It is good 
 for them to have time to sweat a little in their wool after 
 washing. 
 
 Proper Pastures, ^'C. — The fat pastures breed straight, tall 
 sheep, and the barren hills square and short ones. But the best 
 sheep of all are those bred upon new-ploughed land, the reason 
 of which may be easily guessed, as such land is commonly the 
 most free from bad grasses. All wet and moist lands are bad 
 for sheep, especially such as are subject to be overflowed, and to 
 have sand and dirt left on them. The salt marshes are an ex- 
 ception from this general rule ; for their saltness makes amends 
 for their moisture ; any thing salt, by reason of its drying quali- 
 ties, being of great advantage to sheep. 
 
 Value of Pea- Straw for Sheep. — Sir John Sinclair observed, 
 that "there is no food of which sheep ar» fonder than pea- 
 straw ; and where circumstances are favorable for that crop, peas 
 ought to be cultivated morf; for tl\e straw, from tlie advantages 
 
64 
 
 that would thence be derived by the sheep-farmer." Mr. Young 
 also observes, that " the straw of early white peas applied to 
 sheep, is the most valuable return made by straw." 
 
 Importance of Good Air, SfC. — Sheep will bear a great degree ^ 
 of cold, and they suffer less from it than they do from close con- 
 finement. Nature has clothed them in a warm coat, and no ani- 
 mal suffers more in our climate from excessive lieat than the I 
 sheep. They huddle and crowd more closely together than most 
 animals do, and if to this propensity we add confinement in pens 
 and close barns, we need not wonder that diseases multiply 
 among them. 
 
 But as all sheep ought to be allowed a shelter in bad weather, 
 the safest mode of keeping them is to separate them into small 
 flocks, and in this way they will avoid the pernicious eflTects of 
 bad air. 
 
 Goats. — Varieties. — There are several varieties of the goat, 
 but the Thibet is considered the most valuable. They produce 
 a soft and delicate wool, often milk-white. Our common domes-, 
 tic goat originated from the wild goat. It matures early, and isj 
 very prolific. The female gives a great quantity of milk for sol 
 small an animal, and of the best quality. They are much su- 
 perior to the cow on ship-board. The male will engender at a 
 year, and the female at eight months. The flesh of the kid is 
 equal to the best of lamb. 
 
 I 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 SWINE. MANAGEMENT OF, &C. 
 
 Swine are a very profitable animal to a farmer. Indeed, 
 every family in which there is any cooking done should keep at 
 least one hog, always confined in a proper pen, in order to con- 
 sume the washings of pots, dishes, refuse food, &c. 
 
 Marks of a Good Hog. — The marks of a good hog are, a 
 moderate length in proportion to the size of the body ; the nose 
 short, quarters full ; carcass thick and full ; hair fine and thin ; 
 with a symmetr]^ adapted to the breed to which it belongs. 
 Above all, it is essential that it be of a kindly disposition, to fat 
 easy. 
 
65 
 
 Best Breed, — My hogs are of the Bedford breed, so called 
 in England ; and experience has proved to my satisfaction, that 
 this breed is far the best that has been introduced into our coun- 
 try. They are quiet in their nature, fat easy, and with little ex- 
 pense or trouble. I have liad some weigh, at twelve months old,, 
 about three hundred and forty pounds, and a considerable num- 
 ber, of eighteen months old, four hundred pounds. 
 
 Selecting Sows. — The sow should be selected with great care, 
 broad and straight-backed ; wide hips ; a great many teats ; 
 short legs, and fme bones. It is said that the sow will produce 
 the stronger and better litter if not allowed to breed till a year 
 old, and the boar should not be younger than that age when put 
 to sowr>. Sows may be allowed to breed till they are six years 
 old, and boars till five ; and both be made good pork after this 
 period, by methods which do not require description. 
 
 Sows will usually have pigs twice a year, and should be put to 
 the males at such times as will bring one litter in April and 
 another in September. 
 
 To prevent Sows from Eating their Offspring. — Young sows 
 will sometimes eat their own offspring, which may be prevented 
 by washing the backs of the pigs in an infusion of aloes, and for 
 this purpose the sow must be watched. It is said that supplying 
 them with plenty of water at this time will prevent any mischief 
 taking place of this kind. 
 
 Raw salt pork, cut in small pieces, and given, w;^ll prevent them 
 from eating their pigs. I have seen it given after they have eat 
 two or three of their litter, with good success. But to prevent 
 any mischief, it should be kept by them at this time. 
 
 ^Fattening Hogs. — About the first of September begin with 
 boiled potatoes and pumpkins, mashed together, with a little In- 
 dian meal, ground oats and peas, or other grain, stirred into the 
 mixture after it cools. From two to four weeks before killing- 
 time, the food should be dr\' Indian corn, and clean cold water. 
 
 The following mixture for fattening swine has been recom- 
 mended : — 
 
 Wash potatoes clean, boil and mash while hot ; mix in at the 
 same time oats and pea-meal. Put the mixture into a large tub, 
 and let it stand till it becomes sour, but not putrid. Keep a 
 quantity of this on hand, always fermenting, and give it to your 
 hogs as often as they will eat. 
 
 Apples luave been much recommended as food for swine. 
 Thoy are good raw, but better if boiled and mixed with meal. 
 6* 
 
6t) 
 
 An Ohio fnrmer also, in a Southern paper, recommends conla 
 as useful in fattening hogs. After giving his hogs a small quan- 
 tity daily, say two pieces to each, about the size of a hen's egg, 
 they discontinued rooting, were more quiet, and appeared to fat- 
 ten faster. 
 
 Ruhbing Hogs of great Advantage. — Rubbing and currying 
 the hides of fattening hogs is of great advantage to them. It is 
 not only very grateful to them, but conducive to their health. 
 
 Your pigs require warm food to make them grow. Corn and 
 cold water will make them healthy ; but warm beverage is con- 
 sidered requisite to a quick growlh. 
 
 •&" 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 HORSES, COLTS, MULES, &C. 
 
 The horse is one of the most useful of animals. The marks 
 or evidences of a good one are these: — A high neck, a full 
 breast, a lively eye, a strong back, a stiff dock, full buttock, ribs 
 reaching near the liips, well-made hoofs, rather large, and a good 
 
 gait. ^ . . . - 
 
 On Feeding Hoj^ses. — When grain is given to horses, it is an 
 economical practice to have it either ground or boiled. When 
 horses are soiled, or fed in a stable on green grass, it should be 
 cut and carried in during the morning while the dew is on. 
 
 Mode of Breaking a Voung Horse. — Let him, first of all, be 
 tamed with the bridle, by leading ]um*'again and again; in the 
 first place, after, or by the side of another horse ; and after he 
 walks well, bring him to trot after his leader. In the next place, 
 put on the saddle, and lead him in that, time after time. Then lay 
 a small weight on the saddle, and if he be apt to start, fasten it 
 that it may .-.not be flung off; increasing the weight from time to 
 time, till he learns to carry what is equal to the weight of a man. 
 Lastly, let a man gently mount him, while another holds him by 
 the bridle, and fix himself lirmly on the saddle. The place of 
 riding is recommended to be a ploughed field. Let him thus be 
 ridden, with a horse going before him, till he learns the use 
 of the bit, and will stop or go forward at the pleasure of the 
 rider, and without the application of much force. 
 
 Mode of Teaching a Horse to Draw. — In teaching a horse to 
 
67 
 
 imw, gentleness must be used. He should be tried first in com- 
 pany with other horses, whether in carting or ploughing ; and 
 ,the draught should not be so heav}^ as to fret him or put him 
 to great exertion till he has learned to draw steadily. Alter this 
 he may be put to draw light loads by himself. Lastly, he may 
 be put to a pleasure carriage, but coupled with another rather 
 than alone, and to a sleigh rather than a chaise. 
 
 Food for Horses. — Horses love a dry pasture, not too much 
 shaded, and short grasses of the best kinds. Clover and white 
 honeysuckle, both green and dry, are excellent food for them. 
 It nourishes them well, and prevents costiveness, which is very 
 hurtful to them. Tlie best of clover hay will keep them as well 
 as most other kinds of hay with oats. 
 
 Of all juicy food for horses in v/inter, carrots have the prefer- 
 ence ; they have been found by experience to answer well instead 
 of oats for laboring horses ; and to fatten those that are lean. 
 He who would be sure to keep liis horse in good order must be- 
 ware whom he. suiters to ride him, and must see that he is never 
 abused. Horsey should not be sweated. * Profuse sweating should 
 always be avoided, and when a horse is much ^varmed by exer- 
 '^ise, he should not be exposed to cold air, nor night dew, and 
 much less to rain or sno\\-. If he cannot be instantly rubbed 
 down and housed when warm, he should be covered with a 
 blanket ; and he should alv/ays have a dry stable, and be well 
 littered. The neglect of these precautions may bring on incura- 
 ble disorders. 
 
 Horses should be Curried. — When horses are kept in stables, 
 as they generally are in the coldest half of the year, they should 
 be daily dressed, as it is called. The currycomb and brush 
 should be well used on all parts of their skin which are covered 
 with hair. 
 
 Horses should have Shelter. — When a horse runs in a pas- 
 ture during the grass season, he should have some shelter ; not 
 only a shade from the intense heat of the sun, but a shed, or a 
 clump of trees, that he may retreat from the inclemencies of 
 the atmosphere. 
 
 Mule. — The mule is generally well-limbed, large, sure-footed, 
 and capable of carrying a great load, and of performing long 
 journeys. They are less subject to disease than the horse, and 
 endure to a much greater age. They are put to labor at three 
 years of*age. They are naturally obstinate, but good treatment 
 will nearly overcome this objection. 
 
68 
 
 SECTION VI. 
 
 DOGS. VARIETIES, QUALITIES, &cC. < 
 
 Breedings Hearings 8fC. — 1. Learn, if possible, the pedigree \ 
 of the dog for three or four generations. 
 
 2. The male should be one year, and the female fifteen 
 months old before breeding. 
 
 3. The male need not be rejected till he is eight, nor the fe- 
 male till her sixth year. 
 
 4. The female goes with young sixty-three days. 
 
 5. They may be allowed to breed three times a year, but not 
 rear more than five puppies. 
 
 6. They may be fed with porridge, milk diluted, mashed po- 
 tatoes, &c. 
 
 7. Give them a clean straw bed, and a good yard for exercise. 
 
 8. The sucking-teeth are shed at about four months. 
 
 9. Gentleness does more in training dogs than severity. 
 Newfoundland Dog. — The true breed is 'rather small of ^ 
 
 stature, the large kind having been crossed with the mastifj'. | 
 They are a famous dog for the water, and are veiy intelligent. ^ 
 They are kind and docile in disposition, yet will faithfully defend 
 their master and his property. 
 
 Spaniel. — The spaniel is very useful to sportsmen as a hird 
 and iLmter dog. They are docile in their disposition and habits, 
 obedient, and easily trained to a variety of pleasing tricks. 
 
 Setter. — This dog is sometimes called the land spaniel. 
 There are several varieties. He is gentle in character, but needs 
 considerable care in training. 
 
 Pointer. — The Mexican pointer is undoubtedly the best vari- 
 ety. They are true to the scent, and also useful as a water dog. 
 We prefer the pointer to any other dog, for general uses. 
 
 Shepherd'^s Dog. — This dog is remarkable for his sagacity 
 and strong propensity to tend live stock. This animal stands 
 about twenty-one inches high at the shoulder, and is very grace- 
 ful in his appearance. 
 
 Bull-Dog. — This is a pugnacious animal, and is mostly used 
 as a watch-doo; for stores. He is snub-nosed, and savage in his 
 disposition. 
 
 Drover^ s Dog. — This dog somewhat resembles ^the shep- 
 herd's dog ; his color is nearly the same, and he possesses his 
 docility, with rather more courage. 
 
69 
 
 Terrier. — This is considered a veiy valuable dog. They 
 are mortal enemies to rats, mice, foxes, cats, &c. 
 
 Poodle. — This is a very small animal, white and curly, of 
 good disposition, and valued only as a family pet. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CONTAINING THE LATEST AND MOST APPROVED SYSTEM FOR 
 THE CURB OP ALL DISEASES INCIDENT TO DOMESTIC 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 SECTION I 
 
 NEAT CATTLE. 
 
 ;, Cattle. — To cure Hoven Foot. — Take three quarters of a 
 pint of olive-oil, one pint of melted butter or hog's lard ; give 
 this mixture by means of a horn or bottle, and if it does not pro- 
 duce a favorable change in a quarter of an hour, repeat the same 
 quantity, and walk the animal gently about. This will usually 
 cure the most inveterate cases in half an hour. 
 
 Another. — Make about a pint of lye, either with hot embers 
 thrown into a sufficient quantity of water, or pearlash, and turn 
 it down the throat of the ox or cow affected. 
 
 Hoof-ail. — The foot should be carefully washed and cleansed, 
 and thoroughly examined, to be sure that the lameness does not 
 arise from a nail casually run into the foot, or a prick in shoeing, 
 from a wound from a stump, or other substance between the hoofs. 
 If no appearance occurs of any break in the skin, while the foot 
 is still wet, apply as near as may be to the centre of the slit be- 
 tween the hoofs from one to three grains of corrosive sublimate 
 in powder. In slight cases a cure may be affected by the use of 
 salt, or tartar is best. 
 
 Loss of the Cud. — The treatment in such cases consists in 
 stimulating the stomach by tonics, such as aloes, pepper, and gin 
 mixed ; or, with patience, the following remedy will succeed. 
 
 Let the animal fast some time, then give a warm bran or 
 pollard mash, witli good air and warm water and salt. After 
 
70 
 
 conqueririg the obstruction, bitter effusions made of camomile, 
 hoarhound, oak-bark, &;c., in beer, may be required as restora* 
 lives, although perhaps good, dry, nourishing food will have an 
 equally good effect. 
 
 Horn-ail. — The indications of this disease are coldness of 
 the horn, dulness of the eyes, sluggishness, want of appetite, 
 and a disposition to lie down. When the brain is affected, the 
 animal will toss its head, groan, and exhibit indications of great 
 pain. 
 
 Remedy, — A practical farmer and a friend of ours, while he 
 admits that the application of spirits of turpentine is good, asserts 
 that the use of hot brimstone is still better, for the cure of the- 
 horn-ail. Ho puts one spoonful, boiling hot, into the cavity^ just 
 between the horns. 
 
 Another. — Take of salt one half-pint, of soot one half-pint, 
 of black pepper one table-spoonful ; make all line, and give one 
 or two spoonfuls at a time, night and morning. It is easily done, 
 by drawing the tongue out of the mouth with the hand, and put- 
 ting the spoon as far down as it will reach ; then let go the 
 tongue, and keep up the nose, and it will all go down. 
 
 Murrain^ or Plague. — The following recipe for the cure of j 
 murrain, in nine cases out of ten, has proved successful. The 
 person from whom we obtain it has cured a great many cattle in 
 this vicinity, for which he charged $ 1 per head, and asked $ 10 
 for the receipt. 
 
 Recipe. — Give l^ oz. pearlash, dissolved in two quarts of iron 
 water (from blacksmith's trough). If not better in five hours, 
 give I an oz. more, in one quart of water. The water should be 
 warm. Give no drink but warm water for two days . Give 
 warm mash to eat. 
 
 Another. — Take half a pound of salt, two ounces of bruised 
 coriander-seed, one ounce of genuine myrrh m, powder ; give 
 these in a little water. 
 
 Maiige, or Itch. — Take half a pound of black brimstone, , 
 quarter of a pint of turpentine, one pint of train-oil. Mix them 
 together, and rub them well in over the affected parts. 
 
 Lice on Cattle. — Grease, fat, lard, or any oily substance, if 
 applied to neat cattle infested with pediculi, will have the desired 
 effect ; it must be applied by being well rubbed into the hair on 
 those parts where the vermin are found, and repeated until they 
 are destroyed. 
 
 Goose-grease, hog's fat, pot-skmnmings, will all answer the 
 
71 
 
 purpose, and may be obtained in any farmer's family without 
 cost. 
 ^ Tobacco, also, will kill these vermin on cattle, by its operation 
 on them as poison. A simple infusion of tobacco, applied warm, 
 and rubbed into the neck or dewlaps, or wherever found, so as to 
 completely wet the hairs, and repeated at an interval of a few 
 days, will destroy the nits and lice in a short time, and at a cheap 
 rate. The c.urrycomb should be used after the application. A 
 writer in the Michigan Farmer recommends buttermilk for the 
 destruction of lice on cattle. • 
 
 Cure for Wens. — Take a pint bottle and put in half a pint 
 " of fine sulphur ; fill the bottle with spirits of turpentine. Mix it 
 well, and apply it to the wen daily, rubbing it in well with the 
 hand. We have the name of the gentleman who has tried thi.s 
 recipe and found it efiectual. It removed two wens, which were 
 as big as hen\s eggs, from the jaws of two oxen. 
 
 Cwe for Bloated Cattle. — After cutting ofl' the end of the 
 
 tail, boil a strong dose of thoroughwort and tansy ; pour it down 
 
 the throat as soon as it is cool enough ; then turn the animal into 
 
 J the yard, and drive it about a few minutes. This will soon start 
 
 the wind ; repeat the dose if necessar}-. 
 
 Scours. — Give half an ounce of powdered catechu, ten grains 
 of powdered opium, in a little gruel ; or, give small and repeated 
 doses of Epsom and Crhuiber salts, in equal quantities, — half an 
 ounce of the two, in a little warm water, two or three times a 
 day ; this will remove the cause of the disease, and soon effect 
 a cure. 
 
 A Cure for Poiso7i. — Administer one pound of salt in a quart 
 of water-gruel, or a pint to a pint of linseed-oil. 
 
 Sting of the Adder. — Apply immediately strong spirits of 
 hartshorn. For sting of wasps, apply chalk or whiting, mixed 
 with vinegar. 
 
 Cholic. — One pint of linseed-oil, mixed with l* oz. of lauda- 
 num. 
 
 Sprai7is. — One ounce of sweet-oil, four ounces of spirits of 
 hartshorn, half an ounce of oil of thyme. 
 
 Choking. — The following method of relieving neat cattle 
 when choked by a turnip, or potatoes, has been tried, and found 
 successful in every instance. Pour into the throat of the animal, 
 from a junk bottle, a pint or so of lamp-oil, or any kind of oil, 
 at the same time rubbing the throat briskly with the hand. Im- 
 mediate relief will folloAV. 
 
Cows. — Milh Fever or Gar^e^ — Two ounces of brimstone, 
 two ounces of diapente, one ounce of powdered nitrate. Give 
 this daily in a little gruel, and well rub the udder with a little 
 goose-grease. 
 
 Drying off Cows. — Take an ounce of powdered alum, boil it 
 in two quarts of milk till it turns to whey ; then take a large 
 handful of sage, and boil it in the whey till you reduce it to one 
 quart; rub the udder of the cow with a little of it, and give her 
 the rest by way of a drink ; milk her clean before you give it to 
 her, and as you see need, repeat it.- Draw a little milk from her 
 every second or third day, lest her udder be overcharged. 
 
 Another. — This disorder is very frequent in cows after ceas- 
 ing to be milked ; it affects the glands of the udder with hard 
 swellings, and often arises from the animal not being clean 
 milked. It may be removed by anointing the part three times a 
 day with a little ointment composed of camphor and blue oint- 
 ment. Half a drachm or more of calomel may be given in 
 warm beer, from a born or bottle, for three or four mornings, if 
 the disorder is violent. 
 
 A Hint. — A friend, in a description of Norway, says, that^ 
 when the cows drink at the hot-springs, they give more milk than 
 those that drink cold water. Cows drink so much at a time, that 
 there is no doubt, when the water is nearly at freezing, they 
 must feel sensibly cooled all over, which will naturally affect 
 their produce of milk. I would therefore propose the experi- 
 ment of warming the water for milch cows, in cold weather. 
 
 Calves. — Cure for Worms and Insects in the Stomach of 
 Calves. — Take 1 pint of spirits of turpentine, 1 pint of train- 
 oil, 2 oz. spirits of vitriol, 2 oz. assafcetida, 2 oz. hartshorn. 
 Mix the whole together in a bottle, and shake it well before it is 
 used. Pour a table-spoonful down each nostril of every calf for 
 three successive mornings ; the calves must be kept fasting the 
 night previous to giving the dose. Should the first trial not suc- 
 ceed, repeat the dose in the course of a week or ten days. 
 
 Cure for the Scours in Calves. — When the calf is attacked, 
 it should be put in a warm, dry stable, and not be permitted to 
 suck more than half the quantity of milk it is wont to do ; but 
 should be put to the cow regularly three times a day. Make ten 
 of equal portions of whhe-oak, beech, dogwood, and slippeiy- 
 elm bark, and give small doses twice a day, and the calf will 
 soon recover. 
 
 Another, — Break two eggs into a basin, beat them up, and pour 
 
73 
 
 them, by means of a tiii funnel, down the calf a throat; re- 
 peat this twice or thrice ; it has been found an almost infallible 
 cure. 
 
 Another, — Epsom and Glauber salts in equal quantities ; half 
 an ounce of the two, in a little warm water, repeated two or 
 three times a day, according to the violence of the distemper. 
 
 Another. — -Laudanum, bark, &c., though they stop the dis- 
 ease, frequently kill the patient ; the salts, on the contrary, re- 
 move the cause of disease, without producing costiveness. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 SHEEP AND LAMBS. 
 
 Lambs. — Cure for Ticks. — Lambs often suffer much from 
 ticks, after the sheep are sheared, as the ticks which are driven 
 from the old sheep take refuge with the lambs. The cure may 
 be effected as follows. Three gallons of tar ; three gallons of 
 green or train oil, boiled together ; to which add three pounds 
 of roll brimstone, powdered and stirred in ; this is sufficient for 
 ninety sheep. 
 
 Sheep. — Cure for Cold. — When sheep have colds, and dis- 
 charge mucus from the nose, good feeding, together with pine 
 boughs, given occasionally, will cure them ; or tar, spread over 
 a board, over which a little fine salt is strewed, will induce the 
 sheep to lick up the tar, and this will cure a cold. 
 
 To prevent Sheep from taking Cold after being Shorn. — 
 Sheep are often exposed to cold winds and rains immediately af- 
 ter shearing, and thereby frequently take cold. Those farmers 
 who have access to the sea should plunge them into the salt 
 water ; those who have not that opportunity, and whose flocks 
 are not veiy large, may mix salt with water and rub them all 
 over, which will in a great measure prevent any mishap befalling 
 the animal after having been stripped of its coat. 
 
 Head-Fly. — It is very common in the months of June and 
 July for some kinds of sheep, especially the fine Leicester breed, 
 which are commonly thin-skinned about the head, to be struck 
 with a kind of fly, and by scratching the place with their feet 
 they make it sore and raw. To prevent this, take tar, train-oil, 
 and salt, boil them together, and when cold, put a little of it on 
 '7 
 
74 
 
 the part affected. This application keeps off the flies, and like- 
 wise heals the sore. The salt should be in very small quantity, 
 or powdered sulphur may be used instead of it. 
 
 Foot Rot. — Preventive and Cure. — This disease is not only 
 contagious, but also infectious in the highest degree, and often- 
 times so violent as to produce caries in the bone after the hoof 
 is destroyed. A good remedy is a poultice of dough, or fat, 
 loamy clay, which should be applied to the foot by means of a 
 little bag, but not tied hard to the ankle, and kept constantly wet 
 with vinegar, till a swelling appears on the upper side of the 
 foot, or in the cleft of the hoof. This should then be opened 
 with a sharp knife, and the dead hoof pared off. The wound 
 must be washed with cold water, and sprinkled with dry vitriol. 
 
 Mouth Distemper. — The best remedy for this complaint is to 
 bathe the parts affected with a strong decoction of sage, mixed 
 with an equal quantity of vinegar and a little honey. If the 
 blisters continue to spread, hall" an ounce of blue vitriol should 
 be added to a quart of this mixture. 
 
 Scah ill Sheep. — This disorder is dreaded more than any 
 other, and, in fact, did more damage in many districts than any 
 other, until the proper mode of treatment was discovered. The 
 scab is certainly contagious, and may readily be propagated by 
 merely touching the skin of a healthy animal with matter from 
 a pustule on another sheep ; but as far as my observation has 
 extended, the infection is not conveyed through the atmosphere, 
 though it often seems to be epidemic, and particularly in very 
 damp summers, which affect sheep in many other ways so un- 
 favorably. 
 
 Spnptoms. — It is discovered by the animal's constantly rub- 
 bing or scratching itself, and making at the same time a pecu- 
 liar motion with the lips ; the scabs arc sometimes diy, and 
 sometimes moist, and spread rapidly, though the animal contin- 
 ues healthy in other respects, and generally more lively than 
 before. Afterwards, however, the disorder becomes internal, the 
 sheep becomes emaciated, and dies from weakness and pain. 
 
 Remedies. — One of the best remedies is a strong decoction 
 of tobacco, to be applic*d to the diseased parts after scratching 
 off the scabs with a comb, or other instrument. The decoction 
 of tobacco mixed with lime-water and oil of vitriol, and used 
 constantly for some time, will generally effect a radical cure. 
 
 Another. — Another excellent remedy is a decoction of helle- 
 bore, mixed with vinegar, sulphur, and spirits of lurpentiiiC. In- 
 
ternal remedies are of no use, except when the disorder has 
 induced other complaints by weakening the general health. 
 
 To cure Sheep Pox. — -This disorder is contagious, and propa- 
 gates itself by exhalation from the sick to the healthy animal. 
 The only care necessary during the progress of tliis disorder is 
 to keep the sheep in a cool and airy situation. Bathe the sores 
 often with a strong infusion of camomile-flowers, in which a lit- 
 tle blue vitriol has been previously dist^olved, and afterwards 
 dress with a salve made with yolks of eggs and turpentine, 
 mixed with a little powdered charcoal. 
 
 Rot in Sheep. — This disorder is unquestionably caused by 
 feeding in swampy grounds, and a ftiw hours are sufficient to fix 
 it upon a sheep. It is increased by damp, foggy weather, while, 
 on the other hand, dry, warm weather, and high pasture, es- 
 pecially where there are many aromatic herbs, are sometimes 
 sufficient to counteract the flrst symptoms and effect a cure. 
 Horse-chestnuts are an excellent article for fodder in this case ; 
 also a mixture of juniper-berries, wormwood, sage, gentian, an- 
 gelica roots, willow-bark, and other bitter herbs, with a little salt 
 and grain. 
 
 Reeling Sickness. — Lambs and yearlings only are usually li- 
 able to this disorder, and very rarely sheep over two years old. 
 The seat of the disorder is always to be discovered on the brain, 
 where one or more blisters are formed, and filled with a watery 
 secretion. The origin of this complaint, and of course the prop- 
 er preventive treatment, remains as yet undiscovered. 
 
 Best Remedy. — A cure is sometimes effected by an operation 
 through the skull to let off the water. The first step in this case 
 is to examine the skull carefully in search of a soft spot in the 
 bone, which usually indicates the spot affected. The skull is 
 then perforated with a trocar, accompanied by a tube through 
 which the water may escape ; after which the tube also is with- 
 drawn, and a few drops of the essence of myrrh applied to the 
 aperture. This operation is sometimes successful, but more 
 often the reverse. If it succeeds, however, in only one cure out 
 of five, it seems worth the trial, since, without some relief, the 
 sheep must certainly perish. 
 
 Swelled Paunch, — If this disease is taken rn season, it may 
 be cured by violent friction of the back and belly, and driving 
 the sheep rapidly. 
 
 Worms in the Head of Sheep. — It is said by some writers, 
 that, if sheep are kept in good condition, there Is no danger of 
 
76 
 
 their suffering greatly from vFonns in the head ; as they will be 
 strong enough to expel the insects by sneezing. 
 
 Remedies. — To effect a cure in this disease, take a handful 
 of Scotch snuff, and pour upon it two quarts of boiling water, 
 stir it, and let it stand till cool ; inject about a table-spoonful of 
 this liquid and sediment up each nostril of the sheep with a 
 syringe. This must be repeated three or four times, at prop- 
 er intervals, from the middle of October to the first of January. 
 
 Instead of Scotch snuff, a decoction of tobacco will answer 
 the purpose. A gentleman who owns a large flock of sheep in- 
 forms us that he has used it with perfect success. 
 
 Mr. Alexander Reed, of Washington, Pennsylvania, in an ar- 
 ticle on the management of sheep, observes, that " daubing the 
 sheep's nose with tar is considered as a prot-ection against this 
 enemy." What experience I have had is rather calculated to 
 strengthen this opinion. I have always made free use of tar 
 among my sheep, and I do not know that I ever lost one by the 
 worms in the head. 
 
 Maggots in Sheep. — Mix with one quart of spring*water a 
 table-spoonful of the spirits of turpentine, and as much of the 
 sublimate powder as will lie upon a shilling. Shake them well 
 together, and cork up in a bottle, with a quill through the cork, 
 so that the liquid may come out of the bottle in small quantities 
 at once. The bottle must always be well shaken when it is to be 
 used. Wlien the spot is obseiTcd where the maggots are, do not 
 disturb them, but pour a little of the mixture upon the spot, as 
 much as will wet the wool and the maggots. In a few minutes 
 after the liquor is applied, the maggots will all creep to the top of 
 the wool, and in a short time drop off dead. The sheep must, 
 however, be inspected next day, and if any of the maggots re- 
 main undestroyed, shake them off, or touch them with a little 
 more of the mixture. 
 
 A little train-oil may be applied after the maggots are re- 
 moved, as sometimes the skin will be hard by applying too much 
 of the liquid. Besides, the fly is not so apt to strike when it 
 finds the smell of the oil, which may prevent a second attack. 
 
 This method of destroying maggots is superior to any other, 
 and it prevents tlje animal from being disfigured by clipping off 
 the wool, which is a common practice in some countries. 
 
 Water in Sheep''s Heads. — With regard to the causes indu- 
 cing water in the heads of sheep, there is but one opinion enter- 
 tained among shepherds, which js that it is occasioned by a 
 
77 
 
 chiilness in the back of ihe animal, on account of its being ex- 
 posed to the winds and the sleety showers of winter. The fol- 
 lowing facts clearly indicate the truth of this opinion. 
 
 1. It is always most general after a windy and sleety winter. 
 
 2. It is always most destructive on farms that are ill-sheltered, 
 and on which the sheep are most exposed to those blasts and 
 showers. 
 
 3. It preys only on sheep rising their first year; the wool 
 then separates above, leaving the back quite exposed to the wet 
 and cold. 
 
 4. If a piece of cloth or hide is sewed to the wool, so as 
 to cover the back, such sheep will not be affected with the dis- 
 ease. The experiment is a safe, cheap, and an easy one ; and, 
 exclusive of its good effects in preventing the fatal disease under 
 consideration, it is the most beneficial to a young sheep that is 
 not over high in condition, and administers the most to its com- 
 fort during the winter, of any thing that 1 know. One pair of old 
 blankets, of the value of four or five shillings, will furnish coats 
 for forty sheep ; and if these are carefully taken off on the re- 
 turn of spring, and laid aside, they will serve the same purpose 
 for two or three successive years. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 DISEASES OF HOESES, COLTS, &C. 
 
 Cu7'e for Bots. — When a horse has bots, it may often bo 
 known by his biting his sides ; when he has many, they often 
 throw him into great pain, and he lies down, rolls, and, if not 
 cured soon, dies. When it is believed that a horse has bots, by 
 the above symptoms, give a pint of sweetened milk, which the 
 bots are fond of, and they will let go their hold on the horse and 
 feast on the milk. Immediately give the horse a small quantity 
 of oats or other provender, in which put two thirds of a common 
 fig of tobacco pulverized. If he refuses the provender thus 
 mixed, steep the same quantity of tobaccc^ in a pint of boiling or 
 warm water until the strength is out, as v\ e soa" ; tl:cn put in 
 enougli cold v/ater, so that the whole will fill a comn5on junk 
 bottle, and turn it into the horse. When it reaches die bo;s, it 
 kills them, as all will believe who have ever J?pit tobacco-juice 
 7* 
 
78 
 
 upon a worm or similar insect. The horse in less than twenty 
 hours will void all his bots. There is no mistake in this, though 
 no patent has been obtained. The writer would not have it tried 
 on an old, poor horse, in the fall, or first of winter, for he would 
 certainly recover, to the damage of his owner. If one worth 
 curing is affected with bots, and the symptoms are severe, never 
 stop for the milk, but in with the tobacco ; — this is the kill-ail. 
 
 Another. — The following treatment is recommended, which is 
 pronounced a sure remedy. Give a quart of warm sage tea ; 
 in half an hour repeat the dose. After another half-hour, give 
 a gill of tar; and half an hour afterwards, administer a pur- 
 gative. 
 
 A branch of sage chopped into the feed for horses once a 
 week, will prevent the bots altogether. 
 
 Ring-hone. — Ring-bone commences in the lower pastern, and 
 usually in the joint, but it rapidly spreads, and embraces not only 
 the pastern bones, but the cartilages of the foot. There is at 
 first a slight enlargement of bony swelling, on each side of the 
 foot, and just above the coronet. It is more frequent in the hind 
 feet than in the fore, because there is more violent exertion 
 in these than the fore ; yet the lameness is not so great, because 
 these bones are not liable to so much injury ; in its early stages 
 it is not impossible to remove the disease by active blistering, or 
 by the hot iron. Ring-bone is one of the most serious lamenesses 
 with which horses can be afflicted. The animal is unsound when 
 it exists in the slightest degree ; for when the bony deposit begins 
 to spread, the disease is incurable. 
 
 Remedy. — In slight cases, rubbing the swelling night and 
 morning with a drachm of mercurial ointment, rubbing it well 
 in, and afterwards applying a blister, and in two or three weeks 
 another, will be of benefit. 
 
 Cholic. — Relief may be afforded by rubbing the breast of 
 the horse with spirits of turpentine. If this does not succeed, a 
 small quantity should be given internally. Horses should never 
 be put to severe work on a full stomach. Great injury is done 
 to them by heavy feeding when on the road, and hard driving 
 immediately after. 
 
 Pole Evil and Fistula. — A friend gives the following recipe 
 for the cure of these diseases, which he says is a universal and 
 never-failing cure. 
 
 Take a lump of salt, say as large as an egg, the same quantity 
 of liard soap ; tlien take a quantity <»>f pok«-root and boil it sepa- 
 
7^ 
 
 rately until it becomes a sirup, (in quantity a pint,) then mix the 
 sah and soap with it 550 as to make a ball. Wash the place 
 every morning for a week, and a cure is effected. 
 
 Another. — These diseases may be cured by putting a seton 
 in the lower part of the sore, which will discliarge the pus. 
 Then inject soap-suds, if it is to be had, frequently in one day. 
 Then inject a weak solution of oil of vitriol, two or three times 
 a day for one or two days. After this, wash with soap-suds, and 
 a cure will be effected. 
 
 Sf.ijle, — A handful of sumach bark and a handful of white- 
 oak bark, boiled in a gallon of water, down to two quarts ; bathe 
 the stifle with this lotion twice a day for three days ; then put a 
 salve made of the white of an egg and rosin, and bathe the same 
 in whh a hot shovel (held at a short distance off, we suppose) two 
 or three times a day, and the horse is cured. 
 
 Heaves. — To cure heaves, take one pound and a half of 
 good ginger, for a horse. Give two table-spoonfuls a day, one in 
 the morning and the other in the evening, mixed with wheat- 
 bran. It seldom fails of curing the disease. 
 
 Cough. — An experienced farmer tells us, that he has never 
 found any thing so effectual for a bad cough as human urine, 
 given a few times, by discharging into a bucket of water and let- 
 ting them drink it, or on their food, and letting them eat it. 
 
 Another. — Smart-weed, green or dry, is an excellent medi- 
 cine for horses in several diseases, particularly for a cough. 
 Feed them as with grass or hay. Every farmer who has this 
 weed or herb growing on his premises should cut, dry, and save 
 against time of need. 
 
 Saliva. — A Slabbering. — Saliva in the horse can be cured 
 by mixing a table-spoonful of flour of sulphur in the salt that is 
 given them. 
 
 Another. — A friend recommends, that when horses slabber 
 on being pastured in clover, they be turned into dry or old pas- 
 ture, or fed with hay or oats. 
 
 Swelling. — To scatter swellings on horses or other cattle, 
 take two quarts of proof whiskey, or other proof spirits, warm 
 it over coals, but not to blaze ; dissolve in it a pint of soft soap ; 
 when cool, put it in a bottle, and add one ounce of camphor. 
 When dissolved, it will form a liquid opodeldoc, and is then 
 ready for application, forming a cheap and useful remedy. 
 When the swelling is on the leg, or any part that will receive a 
 bandage, such bandage should be applied, and wet with the opo- 
 deldoc. 
 
80 
 
 Wounds and Bi^ises. — Take one quarter of a pound of 
 saltpetre, half a pint of spirits of turpentine : put them together 
 in a bottle, and shake up before using. Apply it to the wound 
 with a feather three times a day. 
 
 Lockjaw. — It is said that pouring water along the back from 
 5 watering-pot, for a considerable time without intermission, will 
 effect a cure of the lockjaw in horses. 
 
 Scratches. — Wash the feet of the horse with the scratches in 
 strong soap-suds, and bind them up in warm cow-dung, two or 
 three nights, and the cure is effectual. The remedy is good, 
 but the great secret of keeping scratches from the feet of horses 
 is to keep their legs clean and free from fever. 
 
 Another. — The sprinkling of plaster of Paris on stable floors 
 is not only an excellent plan for arresting the fertilizing gas of 
 ammonia for manure, but it prevents horses having the scratches, 
 or sore heels. Mix white lead and linseed-oil in such proportions 
 as will render the application convenient, and I never have 
 known more than two or three applications necessary to effect a 
 common cure. 
 
 To cure a Choked Horse. — To relieve a choked horse, the 
 writer recommends bleeding in the mouth. As he swallows the 
 blood the obstruction goes down. 
 
 To cure Sore Backs of Horses. — White lead, moistened with 
 milk or sweet-oil, is the best remedy for sore backs of horses, 
 and, if applied in the early stage of the wound, is always ef- 
 ficacious. 
 
 To take Film from a Horse'^s Eye. — Blow loaf-sugar and a 
 little salt into the inflamed eye, and in most cases it will be re- 
 lieved. Sassafras-buds, pounded and put in water, to stand till 
 it becomes nearly as thick as cream, applied to the eye, is an ex- 
 cellent remedy for inflammation. 
 
 Receipt for Horse Liniment. — 1 oz. spirits turpentine, 1 oz. 
 gum camphor, 1 oz. oil spike, 2 oz. oraganum, 2 oz. sweet-oil, 
 2 oz. spirits nitre, 2 oz. hartshorn, mixed together. 
 
 Wind Galls. — These swellings appear on each side of the 
 back sinew, above the fetlock. It is dangerous to puncture tliem, 
 as is sometimes done, as it may produce an incurable lameness. 
 Tight bandages, and moistening the parts frequently with a strong 
 solution of sal ammoniac in vinegar, may do some good. 
 
 Hoof -bound. — Cut down several lines from the coronet down 
 to the toe, all around the hoof, and fill the cuts with tallow and 
 soap mixed. Take ofl' thri shoes, and (if you can spare him) 
 
81 
 
 turn ihe animal into a wet meadow, where his feet will be kept 
 moist. Never remove the sole nor burn the lines down, as this 
 increases the evil. 
 
 SU'angles. — This is known by a swelling between the jaw- 
 bone and the root of the tongue. If a large tumor appear under 
 the jaw, apply the suppurating poultice. When it is ripe, open 
 it, squeeze out the matter, and reapply a warm poultice. In 
 a few days it will run off. Give warm bran mashes and gentle 
 exercise. 
 
 Foundered Feet. — This is known by the contraction of the 
 hoof, which will appear considerably smaller than the sound one. 
 The horse just touches the ground with the toe of the foundered 
 foot on account of the pain, and stands in such a tottering way 
 that you may shove him over with your hand. 
 
 Cure. — Take oft' the shoe, bleed freely from the thigh vein, 
 and purge two or three times. Keep the hair close trimmed, 
 and the parts clean. 
 
 Blood Spavin. — Clip off the hair from the swelling, and rub 
 all round outside of the swelling with a piece of hard brown 
 soap, then apply to the swelling a blister made of the following 
 blistering ointment : Hog's lard, half an ounce ; beeswax, three 
 drachms ; sublimate, in fine powder, half a drachm ; Spanish 
 flies, two drachms. Mix all well, and spread on white leather 
 and apply to the spavin. 
 
 Bone Spavin. — This may be treated like the former ; it is, 
 however, generally incurable. The operation of firing (which 
 should be done by a professed farrier), and turning to grass, 
 afford the only reasonable chances of relief. 
 
 Wart. — Tie a strong silk, or two or three horse-hairs, round 
 the neck of the wart, tightening it gradually till it falls away. 
 Then dip a piece of tow in alum-water and bind it on the spot 
 for a whole day. Heal the sore with the green ointment. 
 
 Strangury. — Take away a quart of blood, and throw up 
 a laxative clyster; then give one ounce of saltpetre, and one 
 fluid ounce of sweet spirits of nitre in a pint of water. 
 
 Thrush. — Remove the shoe and pare off all the ragged parts, 
 so as to expose the diseased parts ; after cleaning the frog nicely, 
 apply a solution of blue vitriol, and shortly after pour some 
 melted tar ointment into the cleft of the frog and cover its whole 
 surface with tow soaked in the same ; on the tow fit a flat piece 
 of wood about the width of the frog, one of its ends passing un- 
 der the toe of the shoe, the other extending to the back part of 
 
82 
 
 the frog, and bound down by cross pieces of wood, the ends of 
 which are placed under the shoe. Repeat the dressing every day. 
 Corns. — Let the farrier cut them out with a sharp knife. 
 Should they show a disposition to grow again, touch them with 
 oil of vitriol or caustic, and dress them with green ointment. Be 
 careful in shoeing not to let the shoe press on the corn. 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 DISEASES OF SWINE. 
 
 To cure the Measles in Swine. — It sometimes happens, 
 though seldom, that swine have the measles ; while they are in 
 this state, their flesh is veiy unwholesome food. This disorder 
 is not easily discovered while the animal is alive, and can only 
 be known by its not thriving or fattening as the others. After 
 the animal is killed and cut up, its fat is full of little kernels, 
 about the size of the roe or esgs of a salmon. When this is the 
 case, put into the food of each hog, once or twice a week, as 
 much crude pounded antimony as will lie on a shilling. This is 
 very proper for any feeding swine, even though they have no 
 disorder. A small quantity of the flour of brimstone, also, may 
 be given among their food when they are not thriving, which will 
 be found of great senice to them. But the best method of pre- 
 venting disordci's in swine is to keep their sties perfectly clean and 
 dry, and to allow them air, exercise, and plenty of clean straw. 
 
 Rupture. — Where a number of swine are bred, it will fre- 
 quently happen that soine of the pigs will have what is called a 
 " rupture " ; i. e. a hole broken in the rim of the belly, where 
 part of the guts come out and lodge betwixt, the rim of the 
 belly and the skin, having an appearance similar to a swelling in 
 the testicles. The male pigs are more liable to this disorder 
 than the females. 
 
 Cure. — Geld the pig aflccted, and cause it to be held up whh 
 its head downwards ; flay back the skin from the swollen place, 
 and, from the position in which the pig is held, the guts will nat- 
 urally return to their proper place. Sew up the hole with a 
 needle, which must have a square point, and also a bend in it, 
 fcis the disease often happens between the hinder legs, where 
 a straight needle cannot be used. After this is done, replace the 
 
m 
 
 skin that was flayed back, and sew it up, when 'he operation is 
 finished. Tlie pig should not have much food tor several days 
 afterward, until the wound hegius to heal. 
 
 So7'e Tliroat in Sioine. —'Vm"^ animals so affected into an 
 open pasture, where there is fi-esh feed and ground 'o root. It is 
 a disease resulting generally from confinement. Pouu'^'''^'-' o.har- 
 coal mixed with food, where pasture cannot be had, or room for 
 exercise, is one of the best preventives for disease in swine. 
 
 Staggers in Swine. — To cure this disease, ].)e (xrauchy rec- 
 ommends cutting a knot in the roof of the mouth till the animal 
 bleeds liberally, and then rubbing it with powdered loam and 
 salt, and giving it a little urine to drink. Pigs have openings on 
 the inside of the fore legs below the knee, from which, when in 
 health, a small discharge is kept up. A stoppage of these ori- 
 fices is supposed to be one cause of the staggers; and rubbing 
 them open with a cob, or other rough material, will usually effect 
 a cure. 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 DISEASES OF DOGS, &C. 
 
 Debility. — Flour of sulphur, 6 oz. ; nitre, 1 oz. ; treacle 
 enough to make it as thick as dough. Give the dog a piece the 
 size of a medium walnut. 
 
 Inflammation of the Bowels. — Give 2 oz. castor-oil, and 1 oz. 
 sirup of buckthorn, or molasses, and put the dog into a warm bath. 
 
 Distemper in Dogs. — Give an emetic, followed by a dose of 
 castor-oil. 
 
 Weak Eyes. — Apply for a wash the following : White vhriol, 
 8 grains ; soft water, | pint. Mix well, and apply it with a rag 
 several times a day. 
 
 Sore Ears. — Make an ointment as follows, and apply it to 
 the sores : Yellow resin, 2 oz. ; yellow wax, 1 oz. ; sweet-oil, 
 ^ pint. As it cools, stir in 4 oz. of powdered calomel. 
 
 Costiveness. — A dose of castor-oil is best, if it continues, 
 and is severe, give an injection of oil and warm water. 
 
 Cholic Pains. — Give a dose of physic, together with some 
 warm herb-tea. Bathe the bowels whh hot-drops. 
 
 Mange — Rub upon the affected part an ointment made as 
 
84 
 
 follows : Flour of sulphur, J lb. ; soft soap, 2 oz. ; oil of tar, 
 J oz. ; train-oil, \ pt. 
 
 Worms. — Give for a drench, spirits turpentine, 1 to 4 dr. ; 
 castor-oil, 2 to 8 dr. Mix for a dose, and give according to the 
 age and size of the dog. 
 
 Wounds. — Tincture of myrrh and aloes, 2 oz. ; friar's bal- 
 sam, 1 oz. Mil and keep for use. 
 
 Hydrophobia. — Mix a small portion of the flour of sulphur 
 with their food or drink. This has been known in Europe for 
 centuries, and is used to prevent this disease from breaking out 
 among the packs of hounds upon the estates of English noblemen. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE TRUE POULTRY-YARD X OR, FOWL-BREEDER'S 
 GUIDE. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 GENERAL REMARKS, &C. 
 
 Poultry- House. — A poultr5''-house need not be expensive, and 
 yet be as good for the farmer as one with fancy fixings that no 
 one knows the use of. Of whatever shape, it is better to have it 
 too small than too large, in winter, especially. For if too large, 
 the hens get together in one corner in order to keep themselves 
 warm. While, if of the right size, they can promenade as 
 much as they please, and have tlie proper amount of exercise. 
 
 If you have plenty of room in your stable or barn, a room 
 partitioned off there will do. Having built the partition, all the 
 cracks should be well battened up to make it warm. It should 
 have good-sized windows, fronting toward the south, if possible, 
 and it should be well whitewashed, both for neatness and to make 
 it lighter. Then divide it into two apartments ; one to be used 
 for the roosting- room, the other for their occupation during the 
 day. It would be better if they had no access to the roosts in 
 the day. The day-room should be furnished with gravel, chalk, 
 old mortar, and other such materials, to assist in making the 
 shells to their eggs. Also sand and ashes, which are good for a 
 dust bath, put into shallow boxes, so that the room may not 
 be made untidy. The room should have a good plank floor, 
 which sljoiiW be often swept. 
 
85 
 
 Laying in Wi7iter. — If you wish them to lay in winter, they 
 must be furnished with animal food, and vegetables, every few 
 days, besides their regular supply of grain, which, in my opin- 
 ion, had better be kept in ho})pers constantly before them. 
 
 Nests^ <5*c. — Nests can be made in a great many different 
 ways. Some use barrels, which answer well ; small boxes, how- 
 ever, are just as good, and take up less room. They should be 
 filled with good clean straw, wilh one nest-egg (better artificial) ; 
 as soon as laid, the eggs should be taken from the nest, or at 
 least as often as once a day, 
 
 Summer Yards. — In summer, if your fowls have a large 
 yard to roam in, it will not be found necessary to furnish them 
 either with meat or materials to make the shells of their eggs, 
 for they will get them from the earth. 
 
 Spring Yards. — In the spring a yard should be fenced off 
 for them, in which they will thrive better without doing any mis- 
 chief than if they were allowed to run at large, in which case 
 they are often very troublesome in newly-sowed fields. The 
 roosting-room should be thoroughly cleaned as often as once or 
 twice a week, and the floor sj>rinkled with lime. 
 
 If these few directions are carefully attended to, we will insure 
 an abundance of eggs. 
 
 Hen-Ladder. — ^The hen-ladder, which may be easily con- 
 structed by an ascending scale of perches, is essential to every 
 poultry-house. Many valuable fowls have been lost for the want 
 of this little arrangement. 
 
 Selection of Stock for Breeding. — In choosing a cock, take 
 especial care that he is in perfect health, feathers close and rath- 
 er short, chest compact and firm, full in the girth, lofty and elastic 
 gait, large and firm thigh, beak short, and thick at its insertion. 
 
 Next to health and strength, age is to be duly considered. 
 Neither select a cock that is too old, nor one that is too young ; 
 let the age be from a year and a half to three years and a half. 
 Some cocks retain their vigor till they are even past six years 
 old, and some make a display of unquestionable virility at the 
 premature age of five or six months. 
 
 Number of Hens with a Cock. — The number of hens with 
 each cock should not exceed four ; even less than four is better 
 than to exceed that number ; as, in the progeny, the females will 
 exceed or fall short of the males as the number of hens is in- 
 creased or diminished; and the strength of the chicks will bo 
 according to the number of hens put with the cock. 
 
S6 
 
 Choice of Hens for Sitting. — In the choice of a hen for sit 
 ting, look for a large bird, with large, wide-spreading wings. 
 Though large ^ however, she must not be heavy nor leggy. No 
 one of any judgment would sit a Malay, as, in such case, not 
 only would many eggs remain uncovered, but many also would 
 be trampled upon and broken. Elderly hens will be found more 
 willing to sit than young and giddy pullets ; indeed, the latter 
 should never be allowed to sit until at least the second year of 
 their laying. 
 
 Selecting Eggs for Sifting. — In selecting eggs for sitting, 
 bear in mhid what has been said as to the number of hens that 
 the cock should associate with ; and choose such eggs as you 
 have reason to know, or believe, to have been rendered produc- 
 tive. Those of medium size, i. e. the average size that the hen 
 lays, are most apt to prove productive. Sketchley tells us, that 
 he has always found the round egg to contain the female chick, 
 and that of oblong shape, the male. 
 
 Number of Eggs to a Hen. — The number of eggs to be 
 placed under a hen is from nine to eleven. The number is, 
 however, of course, dependent on the size of both eggs and hen; 
 an odd number is to be preferred, as being better adapted to the 
 covering in the nest. Be sure that they are all fresh ; and care- 
 fully note down the day on which } ou place them beneath the 
 hen. Never turn the eggs ; the hen can do that better than you. 
 
 Best Age of Sitting. — The best age for sitting a hen is from 
 two to five years ; and you sliould remark which hens make the 
 best breeders, and keep those to laying who are giddy and care- 
 less of their young. In justice to the animal creation, however, 
 it must be observed, there are but few instances of bad parents 
 for the time their nursing is necessary. 
 
 Hens sit twenty days. Convenient places should be provided 
 for their laying, as these will be proper for sitting likewise. If 
 the hen-house is not secured from vermin, the eggs will be 
 sucked and the fowls destroyed. 
 
 Best Breed, ^-c. — In order to have fine fowls, it is necessary 
 to choose a good breed, and have proper care taken of them. 
 The Canton breed is thought highly of; and it Is certainly de- 
 sirable to have a tine, large kind, but people differ in their opin- 
 ion which is best. It is as important to cross the breeds of 
 fowls as of other animals ; hence it is improper to save males 
 and females from the same sitting of eggs, if they are to be kept 
 for propagation. The black kind are very juicy, but do not an 
 swcr so well tor boiling, as thoir ]eo;s piirtnko of tKrir <'olor. 
 
 
S7 
 
 How to keep a Good Stock. — Those heixs ai\^ usually pre- 
 ferred which have tufts or feathers on their heads ; those that 
 crow are not looked upon as profitable. Some fine young fowls 
 should be reared eveiy year, to keep up a stock of good breed- 
 ers ; and by this attention, and removing bad layei*s and care- 
 less nurses, you will have a chance of a good stock. 
 
 Let the hens lay some time before you sit them, which should 
 be done from the end of February to the beginning of May. 
 While hens are laying, feed them well, and sometimes with oats. 
 
 Broods of chickens are hatched all through summer, but those 
 that come out very late require much care till tliey have gained 
 some strength. 
 
 Feeding Foidlry. — They should be fed as nearly as possible 
 at the saitie hour and place. Potatoes boiled, unskinned, in a 
 little water, and then cut, and either wet ^\ ith unskimmed milk 
 or not, form one of the best foods. Turkeys and fowls thrive 
 amazingly on them. The milk must not be sour. 
 
 Corn and oats, with plenty of fresh water, should be kept be- 
 fore them at all times. They will eat no more than by occasional 
 feeding, and they thrive better. Meat, mash, &c. may be fed 
 out at regular intervals. 
 
 A Ride for Sitting Hens on Turkeys* or Ducks'' Eggs. — If 
 the eggs of any sort are put under a hen with some of her own, 
 observe to add her own as many days after the others as there is 
 dilTerence in the length of their sitting. The turkey and duck sit 
 thirty days. Choose large, clear eggs to put her upon, and such a 
 number as she can properly cover. Twelve is the best number. 
 
 Poultry for the Market. — The article of poultry is readily 
 converted into money, and is probably quite as readily prepared 
 for market as any other article of stock produced on the farm. 
 The expense of feeding the best stock is no more than would be 
 the expense of feeding and rearing the poorest dunghill fowl, 
 while the return shows a heavy balance in favor of the large- 
 bodied and fuie-meated fowl, with little offal. 
 
 SECTION IL 
 
 ORIGIN, VAEIETIES, AND QUALITIES OF DOMESTIC TOULTRY. 
 
 Dunghill or Barn-door Fowl. — The dunghill fowl is seldom 
 met with in its pure state, having been so often crossed with 
 
oiher varietios. We think highly of this stock for our cliniatP, 
 both for eggs and table use ; they excel also as sitters. Crossed 
 in with the Cochin China, tlicy constitute, in our judgment, the 
 very best stock that can be reared. 
 
 Dorking, — The color of the Dorking is pure white, and their 
 principal peculiarity is their having ^^^'C toes. This fowl is of 
 recent account in this country, and is a native of Dorking, Sur- 
 rey, England. They make an excellent stock for the farm or 
 market. They fat well, lay well, and rear well ; are handsome 
 alive, and show delicately white when prepared for cooking. 
 CTcneral opinion has accorded to this breed the highest character 
 for laying, and also for arriving at early maturity. Their eggs 
 are of a large size, clear, wdiite, and of excellent quality. 
 
 The cocks are magnificent ; variegated in color, with a sur- 
 passing brilliancy of plumage, rarely equalled by other kinds. 
 The hens are pheasant-shaped, with a clear and beautiful head 
 and throat, and a deep, heavy crop. The young are easily 
 reared. 
 
 I may add, that, when crossed with larger breeds, they invari- 
 ably improve the form ; and while the quality of the meat is 
 also improved, the amount of otfal is much reduced. 
 
 Cochin China. — This fowl is, comparatively speaking, new 
 in this country, yet they are well known to fowl-fanciers. But 
 few of those which pass under this name in the New England 
 States are of pure stock. Their prevailing color is rich, glossy 
 brown. In strength they surpass most other varieties. 
 
 The flesh is white and delicate. The eggs are large, of a 
 chocolate color, and possess a very delicate flavor. They are 
 prolific, frequently laying two, and occasionally three eggs on the 
 same day, and within a few moments of each other. This has 
 been disputed, but not successfully. 
 
 Bolton Grays. — The Bolton Grays are a small-sized, plump, 
 and short-legged fowl. They excel almost every other breed as 
 layers. Dr. Kittridge, of Portsmouth, N. H., says that he had, 
 from two hens of this breed, 41 eggs in twenty-two days, and 
 95 eggs in fifty-four days. He adds, that they are a hardy fowl, 
 and he values them more than any he has. It should not be for- 
 gotten, however, that they are poor sitters. 
 
 Polish. — The two varieties of this fowl are the Spangled 
 Polish, a beautiful bird, and the well-known black fowl, with a 
 white tuft on the crown. 
 
 In the pure breed, the cock has two small horns in place of the 
 
89 
 
 comb, and die crests or tufis of ihe male, as well as the female, 
 Tmist be entirely white. Mixed colors in the crest invariably de- 
 note a cross. 
 
 They are excellent layers, and if kept warm will continue to 
 lay nearly the whole year. They are poor sitters, and their 
 flesh is of the meanest quality. 
 
 Guelderlands. — The breed of fowls known as the Guelder- 
 land were imported from the North of Holland, some years 
 since, by Captain John Devereau, of Marblehead. The princi- 
 pal mark of distinction is the absence of a comb. Instead 'of 
 this ornament, it has got two little, hard peaks, or, as some call 
 them, horns, on hs crest. 
 
 This fowl is clad in a beautiful blue-black plumage, and its 
 flesh is white, tender, and juicy. Besides the peaks, or small 
 horny substances on its crest, mentioned above, the Guelderland 
 cock has unusually large, red wattles. The breed are of good 
 size, in body, and are great layers, but seldom or never show an 
 inclination to sit. On the whole, they may be described as 
 bright, active birds, and are held by those acquainted with them 
 to be unsurpassed, as to beauty or utility, by any breed at pres- 
 ent known in the United States, 
 
 Malay Fowl. — This fowl, wliich is sometimes called the 
 Chittagong^ came originally from the southern part of India. 
 It is very large, standing high upon its legs, is long-necked, and 
 serpent-headed. It is sometimes white, but generally of a dark- 
 brown color, with yellow streaks. 
 
 Character. — The Malay fowl is not such as we recommend 
 to breeders ; they are not considered as good layers or sitters, 
 and are a long time in coming to maturity. They attain to a large 
 size, however, often weighing ten or twelve pounds, and the 
 flesh is of a very fair quality. ]\Iore recent importations of this 
 fowl do better than the early stock as layers and shters, and 
 crossed with the Dunghill or Dorking, they make a very large 
 and tolerably profitable stock. 
 
 Spangled Hamburg. — There are two principal varieties of 
 this fowl ; the golden and silver. It is a fov/l of great beauty, 
 is well and neatly made, has a good body, and very little offal. 
 On the crest, immediately above the beak, are two small, fleshy 
 horns, resembling, to some extent, an abortive comb. Above 
 this crest, and occupying the position of a comb, is a large 
 brown or yellowish tuft, the feathers composing it darkening 
 towards the extremities. The varieties are termed golden or sil- 
 S* 
 
90 
 
 ver according to their prevailing color. They are inferior to 
 our common poultry, both as to flesh and as layers. 
 
 Spanish Fowl. — One of the most striking characteristics of 
 this fowl is a white cheek., and the comb and wattles are sin- 
 gularly large, simple, and of a very high color; the feet and 
 legs are of a leaden color, except the soles of the feet, which 
 are of a dirty fleshy hue. 
 
 xVs table birds they hold a place in the very first rank, their 
 flgsh being particularly white, tender, and juicy, and the skin 
 possessing that beautifully clear, white hue, so essentially a 
 requisite for birds designed for the consumption of the gormand. 
 The hens are likewise layers of the first order ; and of all nat- 
 uralized or indigenous varieties of fowl, with the exception of 
 the Columbian, these lay the largest and the best-flavored eggs. 
 They are, besides, prolific, extremely- easily fed, and most com- 
 mendable to the breeder. 
 
 Java Fowl. — This fowl resembles in many respects the Ma- 
 lay, and is supposed to be a cross between that and the Dork- 
 ing or Spanish breeds. It has a smooth and serpent- like head, 
 without comb or wattles. It stands high on its legs, has a long 
 and pointed tail, and is of an auburn color. It is supposed 
 that the English game-cock originated from this variety. Being 
 very pugnacious, they are valued chiefly as fighters. 
 
 Game Fowl. — The game fowl is one of the most beautifully 
 colored and elegantly formed of our domestic poultry. He ex- 
 hibits the most daring courage and pride of character. They 
 are difiicult to rear, on account of their fighting propensity, as 
 nearly half of the brood will be killed or blinded ere they are 
 half feathered. They are very good layers, and though the 
 eggs are not quite as large as our average yield, yet they are 
 of excellent flavor. 
 
 Bantam Foiul. — The Bantam is a small, handsomely tinted, 
 and beautifully formed fowl, and without doubt somewhat allied 
 to the game breed. They are good layers and sitters, but alto- 
 gether too small for profit, and are kept mostly for ornament. 
 The cock has generally a strange propensity to suck the eggs, 
 and the hen is naturally a secret layer. 
 
 Ic^ We have given above the principal breeds which are con- 
 sidered worthy the fowl-breeder's attention. Those which fol- 
 low receive only a passing notice. 
 
 Creeper. — This is a variety of the Bantam, — veiy short- 
 legged. 
 
91 
 
 Jimiper. — This is a dwarf fowl, so short-legged that it pro- 
 gresses by jumps. They are prolific, and excellent sitters. 
 
 Turkish Fmvl. — This is a variety of Bantam, with whitish 
 body, belly black, legs bluish, and body streaked whh gold and 
 silver. 
 
 Colamhian Foivl. — This is a valuable fowl, and though a 
 distinct breed, yet has the appearance of a cross between the 
 Spanish and Malay. They are not great layers, but their eggs 
 are very large. 
 
 Dutch Fowl. — This is a good fowl as a layer, and for table 
 use. 
 
 Dutch Every-day Layers. — These fowl have received the 
 name of '^ Ever^'--day,'' or " Everlasting Layers," from the cir- 
 cumstance of their unwillingness to hatch, in consequence of 
 which they lay an egg daily nearly all the year through ; and, if 
 properly cared for, and warmly housed, even amid the frost and 
 snow of the most inclement winter. Some say that the eggs of 
 this fowl are not in general so large as those of ordinary poul- 
 try, nor equally substantial and nutritious. 
 
 Barhary Fowl. — This is a very homely looking fowl. It is 
 booted and feathered to its toes, like the Bantam ; is very bold 
 and confident in its appearance. 
 
 Rumpkin Fowl. — This is a fowl without a tail. It is good for 
 nothing for the table, or as a layer, and not deserving any 
 attention. 
 
 Sussex Fold.' — This is a fowl in its general appearance like 
 the Dorking, though destitute of the ^fifth toe ; some think it a 
 superior fowl. 
 
 Frizzled Fowl. — This fowl is a native of Java, Japan, and 
 other parts of Eastern Asia ; it is smaller than our common 
 fowl, is very susceptible of cold, and is, on that account, very 
 difficult to rear. Their flesh is very delicate and firm. 
 
 Silky Fowl. — This foAvl is- a native of China, and remarkable 
 for its silky plumage, and is of white or cream color. They are 
 good layers, but are not worth rearing. 
 
 Siberian Fowl. — This fowl is a native of Russia. They vary 
 in color; some are white, some blue or black, and others are 
 colored like the game fowl. The flesh of this variety is white 
 and good. They are, likewise, good layers, are hardy, and 
 easily fed. 
 
 Bankiva Fowl. — This fowl is a native of Java, and resembles 
 our Bnntflm, being ofVn f^ntherod fo ihp toes. They are very 
 
92 
 
 wild, and in their native state inliabit tlie skirls of woods, forests, 
 and other unfrequented places. 
 
 Negro Fowl. — This is a native of Africa, and is distinguished 
 by having black comb, wattles, skin, bones, and feathers. The 
 flesh is, however, white and tender. They are an unprofitable 
 stock to keep, and will soon deteriorate your good slock by 
 crossing. 
 
 Shakehag Foicl. — In all probability, this fowl has been com- 
 pletely divested of all distinctive characteristics through crossing 
 with other breeds. The variety now known as the Shakebag is 
 a cross between the Dorking and Spanish. 
 
 Guinea Hen. — As a source of profit, we cannot recommend 
 this fowl ; the eggs are very small, three of them being scarce- 
 ly equal to an ordinary hen's egg, and the flesh not being likely 
 to please every palate. 
 
 This fowl dislikes confinement, and will not thrive unless it 
 has free liberty ; where such, therefore, cannot be afforded, it is 
 useless to attempt keeping it. 
 
 They are prolific ; the hen commences laying in May, and 
 lays throughout the entire summer ; for the table, they are in 
 season from February to June. The period of incubation is 
 twenty-eight days. You must keep the male bird away, or he 
 will, like the pheasant, destroy the eggs. We should also ob- 
 serve that they are secret layers. 
 
 ly To the above we may add the Golden Pheasants, which 
 are very handsome, and good layers, though rather wild and se- 
 cret in their movements. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 TURKEYS, GEESE, DUCKS, DOVES, &C. 
 
 Turkeys. — General Management^ Sec. — Turkeys should have 
 a large, roomy shed, protected from wet and cold weather , their 
 perches should be with a good ladder to reach them. In warm 
 seasons they may be allowed to select their own roosting-places 
 on the trees about the farm. The turkey needs hut little feed- 
 ing, as it will mostly provide for itself when at liberty. They 
 are ruinous in the grain fields. 
 
 Qualities. — In selecting the cock, se© that he is large and 
 
majestic. The cock is in his prime at three, and the hen in heir 
 second year. 
 
 Laying. — Turkeys usually begin to lay in March. A nest 
 should be prepared, as they are secret layers; they usually lay 
 in the morning. Keep the cock away while the hen is laying. 
 
 Sitting. — • Let them have a quiet, dark place for sitting, with 
 clean nests of straw. 
 
 Hatching. — On the thirty-first day the chicks will begin to 
 chip and break their shells. They should be left alone, as the 
 hen win best manage her vouno;. 
 
 Treatment of the Young. — The early feeding of turkeys is 
 much the same as for common poultry. Egg is a good food, 
 also soaked bread, and for the drooping ones a few drops of wine, 
 or, which is better, Cayenne pepper. When they begin to shoot 
 the red., as it is called, they require high feeding. After two 
 months they may be let out to roam at large, and they mostly 
 provide for themselves. The young are to be particularly guard- 
 ed from wet and cold, by always having a good shelter at hand. 
 
 Fattening. — After six months, turkeys may be crammed like 
 other fowls. Six weeks' time will suffice to make them fit for 
 market. If you want large turkeys, the cocks should be kept 
 over, but young hen turkeys are the best flavored. 
 
 Varieties. — The variety of color constitutes the chief differ- 
 ence in this bird. They are known as the ichite, the copper' 
 colored, the broivn., the bronze., dusky-gray., black, ^c. The 
 black are the best variety, and mostly reared. 
 
 Geese. — General Management. — The Toulouse Goose. — 
 The latest variety introduced, and perhaps the best for size and 
 capacity, and carrying flesh, has been imported from the Medi- 
 terranean, and is known by the name of the " Toulouse goose." 
 This bird is chiefly remarkable for its vast size, — a property in 
 which it casts every other known breed far into the shade ; it is, 
 indeed, the mammoth of geese, and is to be regarded as the most 
 valuable addition to our stock. They are recommended highly 
 to cross with the common goose. 
 
 The Bremen Goose. — This is a large and splendid fowl, of a 
 pure white color, having orange legs and bill. They lay in Feb- 
 ruaiy ; sit and hatch with more certainty than barn-yard geese ; 
 and will, in many instances, when young, double the weight of 
 the barn-yard kinds. They also yield double the quantity of 
 feathers the other kinds do. Their superior properties are great 
 size, being easily fed, remarkable hardiness wlien young, and 
 the production of flesh of a superior quality. 
 
91 
 
 Common Goose. — Tliere are but two kinds of the common 
 goose ; the large and small., or the white and gray. The best 
 kinds are those which vary least in color. Gray is the best coI» 
 or, as coming nearest to the original Gray-lag ; white is not quite 
 so good ; but avoid mixed colors. 
 
 Breeding. — These birds, as has been ascertained by M. St. 
 Genis, will pair like pigeons ; and even if the number of gan- 
 ders exceeds that of the geese, no noise or riot takes place, and 
 mutual choice is evidently the ruling principle. 
 
 For the purpose of hatching, a gander should be mated with, 
 at most, three geese. Let his size be large, his gait active, his 
 eye lively and clear, his voice ever ready and hoarse., and his 
 demeanor full of boldness and impudence. Select the goose for 
 her iveight of body., steadiness of deportment, and breadth of 
 foot. If eggs alone is the desire, then one gander may run with 
 six or eight geese. 
 
 Laying. — The goose begins usually to lay about the end of 
 February or beginning of March. Wlien about to lay, they will 
 be seen with straws in their beaks f«r making their nests. They 
 should be made to lay their first eggs in some particular place, 
 and they will be sure to deposit all the rest in the same place. 
 The goose drops from ten to twenty eggs at one litter, but will 
 go on to thirty or forty if the eggs are removed. 
 
 Sitting. — The inclination of the goose to sit may be known 
 by her sitting longer on the egg after laying than usual. Twelve 
 eggs are as many as is profitable to sit under an ordinary-sized 
 goose. The gander will do no harm to go in and out as he 
 pleases, but will rather act as a vigilant guardian. 
 
 Nests and Food. — The nests should be built of stmw, and 
 lined with soft hay, and food and drink should be kept near dur- 
 ing the period of sitting. 
 
 Goslings., Sj'C. — The twenty-ninth day the goslings begin to 
 chip the shell. The goose will sit two months if allowed ; eggs 
 should be of equal freshness, so as to have them hatch at the 
 same time. Let the goslings have the sun, but do not feed them 
 for twelve hours after they arc hatched. Their food may be 
 like that given to young turkeys. 
 
 Yards, (5*c. — A good yard, in which geese may be shut up as 
 occasion requires, is essential, though they should have the 
 largest liberty allowable, as they will subsist upon grass, nettles, 
 brakes, &c., and thus save the owner's pocket. Market garden- 
 ers should never be without geese, which would consume all 
 
95 
 
 their refuse, and bring money into their masters' pockets in re- 
 turn for their consumption of what would otherwise be wasted. 
 
 Ducks. — Varieties. — There are several varieties, but only- 
 two kinds deserving the attention of fanciers. 
 
 Aylesbury White. — This is a large, handsome duck, and is a 
 great favorite. Their flesh is of a delicate flavor, hardly ex- 
 celled by that of the chicken. 
 
 Rouen Duck. — This is very prolific, and lays large eggs. It 
 is a native of France. In rearing, the large size should be 
 sought for. 
 
 Muscovy. — This duck makes a fair stock. It is of every va- 
 riety of color, is easily fattened, a prolific breeder, but a vora- 
 cious feeder. 
 
 Water. — Without water, it is useless to endeavor to keep 
 these fowls ; but even a very small supply will suflice. Some 
 parties have kept them with success, and fattened the ordinary 
 duck to the weight of eight pounds, with no further supply of 
 water than what was afforded by a large tub sunk in the ground. 
 
 Laying. — The duck does not lay during the day, but gener- 
 ally in the night ; exceptions, regulated by circumstances, will, 
 of course, occasionally occur. While laying, the duck requires 
 more attention than the hen, until she is accustomed to resort 
 to a regular nest for depositing her eggs ; once, however, that 
 this is effected, she will no longer require your attendance. 
 
 Hatching. — The duck is a bad hatcher ; she is too fond of 
 the water, and is, consequently, too apt to suffer her eggs to get 
 cold ; she will, also, no matter what sort of weather it be, bring 
 the ducklings to the water the moment they break the shell. 
 
 The eggs of the duck are thirty-one days in hatching ; during 
 incubation, they require no turning, or other attention ; and 
 when hatched, only require to be kept from water for a day or 
 two. 
 
 Ducklings. — Their first food may be boiled eggs, nettles, and 
 i a little barley ; in a few. days they demand no care, being per- 
 fectly able to shift for themselves. Boiled potatoes are very- 
 good feeding, and arc still better if a little grain be mixed 
 through them ; Indian meal will be found both economical and 
 nutritive, but should be used sparingly at first. 
 
 Ducks'' Eggs. — The egg of the duck is by some people very 
 much relished, having a rich piquancy of flavor, \vhich gives h a 
 decided superiority over the egg of the common fowl ; and these 
 qualities render it much in request with the pa^lry-cook and con- 
 
96 
 
 fectioncr, three duck eggs being equal in culinary value to six 
 hen eggs. 
 
 Ducks in Gardens. — In a garden, ducks will do good service, 
 voraciously consuming slugs, frogs, and insects, nothing coming 
 amiss to them ; not being scrat.ckers^ they do not, like other 
 poultry, commit such a degree of mischief in return as to coun- 
 terbalance their usefulness. 
 
 Doves. — But little attention is paid to the propagation of this 
 bird. They are profitable only to those who keep hotels, and 
 have large stables, or to those who have waste offal. They mul- 
 tiply fast, and, when fed, soon eat up the valua of their bodies. 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 DISEASES OF FOULTRY. THEIR SYMPTOMS AND CURE. 
 
 /- 
 
 The remedies for the diseases are few, and when properly 
 applied are generally effectual. We give below the results of 
 our own experience, and believe it to be a safe guide. 
 
 Asthma, — The si/mp to ms of this disease are gaping^ panting^ 
 and difficulty in breathing. Cure. — Give repeated doses of 
 sulphur and Cayenne, and keep the fowl warm. 
 
 Apoplexy. — The symptoms are a staggering and drunken ap- 
 pearance, shaking the liead, d:c. The remedy is a light diet, 
 with a little Cayenne or ginger. A leech or two applied to the 
 fowl will be found of sei*vice. 
 
 Costiveness. — Give a dose of castor-oil, and keep the fowl on 
 a low diet. 
 
 Consujnption. — Give Cayenne with the food. Let the fowl 
 be kept warm and diy, and give fresh meat every day. 
 
 Bloody jp/7u\ — Boiled rice, or starch with milk, will soon 
 effect a cure. 
 
 Corns, — Remove the callous part with a sharp knife, and 
 touch with lunar caustic. 
 
 Diarrhma. — Give thick porridge warm, to which is added a 
 little starch and Cayenne. If it becomes very severe, a little 
 prepared chalk may be given. 
 
 Fever. — Give a little castor-oil; change the food to a light 
 diet ; give plenty of fresh air and water. 
 
 Gout. — Frequent doses of sulphur may be given in this com- 
 pkiiiit. 
 
97 
 
 Indigestion. — Mix powdered gentian and Cayenne with the 
 food, which should also be decreased. 
 
 Moulting. — This is a natural process, and cannot, therefore, 
 be called a disease. The judicious use of Cayenne with the food 
 is all that is necessar}\ Keep the fowls warm, with plenty of 
 fresh^ water, and exercise in open air. 
 
 Pz^;. — A disease to which young fowls are peculiarly liable, 
 and that, too, chiefly in hot weather. 
 
 The symptoms are a thickxniing of the membrane of the 
 tongue, especially towa.vds its tip. This speedily becomes an ob- 
 struction of sufficient magnitude to impede the breathing ; this 
 produces gasping for breath ; and at this stage the beak will 
 often be held open. 
 
 Cure. — Most writers recommend the immediate removal of 
 the thickened membrane. Rather anoint the part with fresh 
 butter or cream. Pxick the scab with a needle if you like ; and 
 give internally a pill about the size of a marble, composed of 
 equal parts of scraped garlic and horseradish, and as much Cay- 
 enne pepper as will outweigh a grain of wheat. Mix with fresh 
 butter, and give it every morning, keeping the fowl warm. 
 Keep the bird supplied with plenty of fresh water ; preserve it 
 from molestation, by keeping it by itself, and you will generally 
 find it get well. 
 
 Roup. — The true roup is a disease extremely analogous to in- 
 fluenza in man, or even more so to the well-known distemper 
 among dogs ; and, in some forms, perhaps to the glanders of the 
 horse. 
 
 The proper treatment of this disease is plenty of fresh water and 
 open-air exercise. For pullets give as./ollows : — Powdered gen- 
 tian, 1 part ; powdered ginger, 1 do. ; Epsom salts, li do. ; flour 
 of sulphur, I do. Make up with butter, and give every morning. 
 
 If the discharge should become fetid, the mouth, nostrils, and 
 eyes may be bathed with a weak solution, composed of equal 
 parts of chloride of lime and acetate of lead. 
 
 The other infection, that improperly passed under this name, 
 viz. swelling ^f the tail gland, may be treated as a boil. If it 
 become inconveniently hard and ripe^ let the pus or matter out 
 with a penknife, and it will soon get well. 
 
 1^^ The proper combination of Cayenne, gentian, sulphur, 
 and castor-oil, according to the disease, is all the medicine that is 
 essential for poultry. Give plenty of fresh water, open-air exer- 
 cise, and feed with meat and vegeiables. 
 9 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE FAMIJLY GARDENER. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF THE KITCHEN GARDEN- 
 
 Remarks. — There are many persons v/ho live in the vicinity 
 of cities, and throughout the country generally, who possess the 
 means of cultivating a garden, and who would fmd both health 
 and pleasure in the pursuit ; but not being disposed to keep a gar- 
 dener, they are deterred from the pursuit altogether for the want 
 of the requisite knowledge. By the aid we offer in this chapter, 
 almost any person may undertake the management of a garden 
 with good hope of success. 
 
 The Proper Situation of a Garden, — The chief points to be 
 attended to are a proper degree of shelter from cutting winds, 
 and full exposure to the influence of the sun. The winds prin- 
 cipally to be guarded against, are the north, north-east, and 
 north-west, as it is from those points that our coldest winds pro- 
 ceed. It is an invariable rule, that there should never be any 
 trees of a considerable height on the south side of a garden ; for 
 during the winter, and early in the spring, they throw their 
 lengthened shadows into the garden, at a time when every sun- 
 beam is valuable. On the east, also, the trees should be suffi- 
 ciently removed, so as to admit the early morning rays. 
 
 A good aspect for a garden is universally allowed to be that 
 which has a gentle declivity tov/ards the south, and inclining 
 rather to the east, in order that it may receive the benefit of the 
 morning sun. A north aspect is unfavorable for general pur- 
 poses, it being always cold and late. 
 
 The inclination of a garden towards the south, if artificially 
 made, should not exceed one foot in twenty ; but if the inclina- 
 tion of it be naturally greater, no good reason can exist for 
 making any alteration in it, for the ground which J^as a consider- 
 able slope towards the south is always the warmest. 
 
 The Requisite Soils^ ^^c. — It is admitted by all gardeners, that 
 the soil best calculated for general garden pm-poses should be of 
 rather a light, rich, friable, loamy texture, dry, mellow, and ca- 
 pable of being wrought at all seasons, and of a good depth, that 
 is, from two feet to three feet and a ha-lf ; and thai the worst kinils 
 
# 9^ 
 
 are those of the very liglit sandy and stiff clayey texture. A 
 loam of a middling texture, rather inclining to sand, will be 
 found the most suitable for the majority of kitchen vegetables. 
 Gravelly soils are not suited to garden grounds, being sterile, 
 hard to be enriched, and easily washed out by rains. Mould for 
 improvmg soil should be taken from the surface, as it is, in fact, 
 the true vegetable earth ; the fuller it is of fibrous matter, the 
 better. . 
 
 Manures. — Their Kinds and Qualities. — Many kinds are 
 in use, but the dung of horses, if not the best, is the most com- 
 mon. Next to the dung of horses, that of oxen and cattle is in 
 the greatest request, and, if slightly fermented, is an excellent 
 manure for light, hot soils ; it is also well calculated for soils of 
 a dry, absorbent nature, as it retains its moisture for a greater 
 length of time than most others. 
 
 Sea-weeds, where they can be procured, make excellent ma- 
 il ire for most vegetables, but particularly for sea-kale, artichokes, 
 and asparagus. This manure, however, is very transient in its 
 effects, and does not last more than for a single crop. 
 
 The dung of birds, either wild or domesticated, alfords a pow- 
 erful manure, particularly that of the former. Pigeons' dung 
 was, and still is, in great repute ; but it should only be used 
 as a compound. The ashes of v/ood, if not too much burnt, are 
 considered to be a lasting manure ; they are generally used 
 am.ongst turnips, and are supposed to be of use in protecting 
 them from the f!y. 
 
 Of all mineral manures, lime is most known, and generally 
 used ; it should, however, never be applied with animal manures, 
 unless they be too rich, or for the purpose of preventing noxious 
 efHuvise. It is injurious when mixed with any common dung. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 RAISING GARDEN VEGETABLES. 
 
 Vegetable Roots. — Turnips. — Early crops should have a 
 good aspect for warmth, light and dry soil, and should be sown 
 as soon as possible after the frost has left the ground. Sow 
 after a rain, and rake in the seed. Early Dutch is good seed 
 for summer. Ruta-baga makes the best for winter use. For the 
 late turnip, sow from July to September. 
 
100 ^ 
 
 Beets. — For very early crops, sow the seed about the 15th of 
 March ; for winter use, sow until the month of June. They do 
 best in drills, well manured. Sow four inches apart, and put 
 two or three seeds in a hole, so as to make sure of a good root, 
 as the weakest are to be removed, leaving only one stalk 
 standing. 
 
 Carrots. — This root requires a light soil and an open situa- 
 tion. Sow by the first of April, and be sure to make the ground 
 fine and deep-spaded. The Early Horn is good for the early 
 crop, but the Long Orange for the winter stock. 
 
 Parsnips. — This is a very nutritious root; it should be sown 
 in drills in the month of April. The sugar parsnip is considered 
 the best. They require good manure. Frost does not harm 
 them in the least. 
 
 Onions. — Onions require a rich, mellow soiL The ground 
 should be well dug over early in spring, and thrown up to the 
 action of the sun. The beds require to be well manured with a 
 fine rich dung. The Silver-skinned is usually preferred ; but if 
 a crop the first season is desired, sow the Red. 
 
 Potatoes. — A rich, sandy loam, with plenty of stable or cow 
 manure, is best adapted to the potato. For an early crop, plant 
 about the 20th of March ; but for the main crop, the 15th of 
 April will be seasonable. The Peach-blossom, Chenango, and 
 Canada White are the varieties now in demand. 
 
 Horseradish. — This is a valuable root, and is propagated 
 by cuttings. The ground should be dug deep, and well manured, 
 and the cuttings laid along in trenches. It should be done in the 
 fall, and the second season will give good roots. 
 
 Radish. — The early scarlet short-topped radish may be sown 
 as early as the 20th of March. The seed should be sown toler- 
 ably thick, and raked in ; let the bed be made very fine, and 
 suitably enriched. If frost is anticipated, the beds should be 
 covered in with straw, mats, or other coverings. The Yellow 
 Turnip-rooted and Summer White make the best late crops. An 
 ounce of seed for a bed three feet broad and nine feet long is 
 enough. 
 
 Oyster Plant. — This root is much like the parsnip. It should 
 be sown in drills about the 20th of April, in well-tilled land ; 
 sow the seed thick, as many of them will not vegetate, and let 
 the plants stand about six inches apart. It is a hardy plant, and 
 worthy of cultivation. 
 
 Vegetable Plants. — Corn. — The su^ar corn, from its be- 
 
101 
 
 iiig very early, milky, and sweet till autumn, is the best for the 
 garden culture. It may be planted at intervals of two or three 
 weeks, from the 15th of April to the 15th of July. Plant in 
 hills, and leave two or three stalks in a hill. Manure well, and 
 dig deep. 
 
 Beans. — The Kidney Bean is a valuable vegetable ; it may be 
 planted about the 20th of April. The Scarlet Runners are more 
 valued as ornaments than for use. The Lima and Civy Beans 
 are good varieties. But the Horticvltural is considered the best 
 and most profitable of the whole family. 
 
 The mode of culture is to form hills slightly elevated, in 
 which a liberal quantity of well-decomposed manure has been 
 incorporated ; in these hills half a dozen beans are planted to se- 
 cure a sufficiency ; but ihree vines at most, in each hill, should 
 stand ; at the time of forming the hills, or subsequently, as may 
 be most convenient, insert securely a stout pole, nine or ten feet 
 in height, to which assist the vine in its efforts to adhere ; when it 
 has got firm hold, it will take care of itself. But little culture cai 
 be given this crop, further than to keep down weeds. 
 
 Fease. — Pease are most productive in a light, but at the same 
 time a rich soil ; they may, however, be grown with care upon 
 almost any other kind of soil, if it be well manured when too 
 poor or dry, and well drained if inclined to be wet. 
 
 To secure a regular supply, successive sowings should be 
 mide every three*weeks during the months of March, April, and 
 May, and twice in each of the months of June, July, and Au- 
 gust. The seed should not be more than two years old, and a 
 pint will be sufficient to sow four rows, each five yards long. 
 
 There are many varieties, of pease, but the Early Dwarf and 
 Marrowfats are the best suited to our climate. 
 
 Squash. — This fruit is in general use, few gardens being des- 
 titute of it in its seasons ; there are many varieties, but for sum- 
 mer use those most grown are the Large Green and Early Bush., 
 or patty-pan shaped ; the latter, from its compact mode of gr.owth, 
 is generally preferred. 
 
 The mode of culture is very simple, all that is requisite being 
 to deeply dig patches of earth, at the distance of four or five 
 feet each way, and incorporate with the soil a gobd portion of 
 well-decomposed manure ; in each patch or mound of earth, 
 plant half a dozen or more seeds, and when the plants are well 
 established, remove all but two or three of the strongest. The 
 seed need not be planted before the middle of spring (15th 
 9* 
 
102 
 
 April), as the squash is susceptible of cold, and will make no 
 headway until the weather becomes mild. 
 
 Cucumbers. — For an early crop for table use, start some 
 plants in pots, about the middle of spring (15th April), and when 
 all probability of frost is over, set them out on a well-sheltered 
 border, in hills, with a spadeful of well-rotted manure incorporat- 
 ed with the soil of each hill ; at the same time, the seed for a suc- 
 ceeding crop may be planted. For pickles plant middle of sum- 
 mer (20th July). The Early Frame is the best variety for table 
 use, and the Long Green for pickling. The cucumber, like the 
 squash, is liable to be preyed upon by yellow bugs, which are 
 very destructive ; to counteract tlicm, prepare a mixture of air- 
 slacked lime and wood-ashes, which sprinkle freely over the 
 leaves and stems whilst the dew is on, that it may adhere. 
 
 Cabbages. — Cabbages will thrive well in any richly manured 
 soil, provided it be not too dry. A deep, mellow loam is better 
 suited to them than a sandy or gravelly one. 
 
 The better kinds for the early crops are the Large Early York, 
 Landreth's Large York, and Sugar-loaf. The Bullock-heart is a 
 superior variety, but, from being exceedingly tender, is kept with 
 difficulty through the winter. There are many other early sorts 
 scarcely distinguishable, except by name, but the above are the 
 more desirable. 
 
 For the late autumn and main winter supply, the seed may be 
 sown about the middle of spring (10th to 15tlf April), and the 
 transplantation may be at various times from the early part to 
 middle of summer (20th June to 20th July). The sorts best 
 adapted for late crops are Drumhead, Flat Dutch, or Bergen, 
 Drumhead Savoy, and Curled Savoy. 
 
 The Red Cabbage seed ma^/ be sown at the same time with the 
 Drumhead, &;c., and treated in the same manner ; the}^ are used 
 solely for pickling. 
 
 Asparagus. — In making a bed, select a light, pliable soil, and 
 spade -it deep and fine, with plenty of manure. Select good, 
 thrifty roots, and plant tiiem in trenches, three feet each way, six 
 inches deep. The second year some buds may be cut for use. 
 Keep the beds clear of weeds. 
 
 Cauliflowers. — To have cauliflowers in the autumn, the seed 
 should be sown in the middle of spring (15th iVpril). These 
 plants should be transplanted into rows two feet, or two feet and 
 a half distant, the ])i;i)its being from eiiihteen to twenty inches 
 apart in the rows. 'V\\e c;>ulirlow«M- is at llie best an uncertain 
 
103 
 
 vegetable in this climate, and the only mode of culture in which 
 success may be relied on is in hot-beds, where the temperature 
 most congenial to them can be secured by artificial means. 
 
 Celery, — Very early in the spring (1st to 15th March), if the 
 frost is out of the ground, prepare a small bed of light, rich 
 earth, in a warm, sheltered situation, in which the seed must be 
 sown for an early crop. Break the mould very fine, as the seed 
 is small, and rake the surface even ; sow the seed, but not too 
 thickly, and cover with light, rich mould, about a quarter of an 
 inch deep. The plants should be kept thin in the seed-bed, and 
 pricked out, when fit, upon a surface of fresh earth, well ma- 
 nured. They should be watered and shaded until they take root ; 
 and, in drawing from the seed-bed, let some of the strongest 
 plants remain, to be put out for an early drill. The plants may 
 be planted out in richly manured trenches about the 20th of 
 June. Cultivate with the hoe, always leaving about six inches 
 of the plant above the soil. 
 
 Cress. — A small quantity should, in the salad season, be sown 
 every six or eight da3^s, for it should be cut before it comes into 
 the rough .leaf. It is sown in shallow drills, and covered slightly 
 with very fijie earth. The common Garden Cress is generally 
 not cut till the fourth or fifth leaf has made its appearance, but 
 the Curled Cress will remain good for a considerable length of 
 time, if the outside leaves only be picked off", as it will soon pro- 
 duce more, and in this respect bears a great similarity to parsley. 
 
 One ounce of seed will be sufficient for a bed three feet broad 
 and five feet long. 
 
 Egg Plant. — The original species is white, but the varieties 
 most cultivated are the smooth-stemmed purple., and the prickly- 
 stemmed purple ; both grow large, and are equally good ; but the 
 smooth-stemmed is the earlier. To have them early, it is requi- 
 site to s5w them in a hot-bed, very early in the spring (15th 
 March), transplanting them into another when they attain the 
 height of three or four inches. They should not be put out in 
 the open ground before the weather becomes mild (middle of 
 May), because the plants are very tender, and should they even 
 escape frost, may become stinted from long-continued cold 
 weather. When about to plant them in the open ground, choose 
 a well-cultivated spot, and if not rich, or even if "in good condi- 
 tion, add plenty of thoroughly rotted stable-manure ; allow the 
 plants three feet space each way. 
 
 Lettuce. — If the weather be mild and dry towards the early 
 
101 
 
 part of spring (15tli March), the seed of lettuce may be sown. 
 A rich, light soil, and an early warm spot, are to be chosen. 
 The Brown .Dutch, the Early Cabbage, the White Cos and Green 
 Cos, are the kinds most proper for this sowing. Let the seed be 
 sown rather thickty ; let it be lightly covered, and raked in 
 smoothly and neatly ; the seeds must not be trodden nor beaten 
 in. When the plants come up, thin them quickly to four inches 
 apart ; when they have attained the height of about four or five 
 inches, leave one and take up two throughout all the rows, and 
 then hoe the ground nicely between the remaining plants, having 
 previously made another bed to receive the plants thus taken up ; 
 plant these in rows across a bed, the rows iifteeen inches apart, 
 and the plants fifteen inches apart in the row. 
 
 Melon. — The mode of culture in the garden is precisely as 
 directed for early cucumber. The soil should be somewhat light- 
 er, if practicable, especially for the water-melon, and the planta- 
 tions should be made apart from those of squashes, cucumbers, 
 and other plants of the same family, which are peculiarly liable 
 to hybridize. The best varieties for the garden are the Nutmegs 
 Citron^ and Minorca. They should be started under glass. 
 
 Rhuharb. — The seed should be sown in the middle*of spring 
 (15th April), in a border with a northern aspect, and scattered 
 thinly in drills of about two inches in depth, and a foot apart, and 
 slightly covered with soil. When the plants appear, they should 
 be thinned out to about six inches of each other, and afterwards 
 to a foot. Rhubarb should always be planted in a shaded or 
 northern situation, as their stems will be finer and better when 
 not too much exposed to the sun. Any rich soil will grow good 
 rhubarb, which will require an annual top-dressing of well-rotted 
 manure. This should be applied in autumn. 
 
 As seedling plants do not produce stems fit for use till two 
 years after the time for sowing, if plants are desired ty be ob- 
 tained sooner than they can thus be brought into use, the old 
 roots may be taken up and separated into as many parts as there 
 are crowns or eyes, leaving a portion of the root to each ; these 
 may be planted out when desired, and tliey will soon produce 
 stems sufficiently strong for any required purpose. 
 
 Tomcifo. — The plants are usually started in hot-beds, very 
 early in the spring (1st March), and as they advance in growth 
 transplanted to more roomy quarters, still under glass; and by 
 the time it is prudent to expose them to the gpen garden, they 
 have become strong and vigorous; ; indeed, after thry are set out, 
 
105 
 
 shelter is wtill afforded in unfavorable weather, usually by small 
 boxes, each having a Hglit of glass in the top. 
 
 Tlie common method of culture is to prepare the ground by 
 deep digging (market gardeners use the plough), and incorporate 
 into the soil pleiity of thoroughly rotted manure. It is not ad- 
 visable, however, that the manure should be in excess, else, 
 though the plants will grow vigorously, the fruit will be less 
 abundant. 
 
 It is a good plan to cover the surface of the earth around each 
 clump with straw or litter, which prevents rapid evaporation dur- 
 ing the hot weather, and also keeps the fruit from injuiy by 
 heavy rain. Some brushwood stuck around the plants to support 
 them, is also useful. 
 
 Parsley. — Method af Culture. — Parsley may be sown either 
 in rows or beds, middle of spring (15th April), and deeply raked. 
 The seed does not vegetate under two or three weeks, unless 
 previously soaked, which we would recommend being done in 
 warm water for twelve hours immediately before sowing. Dur- 
 ing the season of growth, the cultivator will of course keep it 
 free from weeds, and the ground in a proper condition. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 THE herbalist: or the culture of culinary and medici- 
 nal HERBS. 
 
 Culinary Herbs. — Marjoram. — This is sown about the 
 middle of April, in drills, in fine and rich ground. The drills^ 
 should be mere marks to guide the hand in sowing. Keep down 
 the weeds, and culture with the hoe. 
 
 Thyme. — There are two varieties, the Common and the Lemon, 
 They may be propagated by seed, or cuttings of the root. Pro- 
 tection from the severity of winter is essential. 
 
 Savory. — There are two kinds, the Summer and Winter. 
 They may be propagated from seed or offsets. The Summer is 
 the best, and is cultivated like the marjoram. 
 
 Sage. — You may propagate this by seed, cuttings, or slips of 
 the root. The seed may be sown in the middle of April ; the 
 cuttings may be propagated in the end of July, and the slips in 
 April. A light soil is preferable. The green and purple kinds 
 are only used in the kitchen. 
 
106 
 
 Caraway. — The seed should be sown in Marcli. Plough and 
 harrow well ; a clayey loam is the best soil. Hoe two or. three 
 times, and cut in .Tuly. 
 
 Coriander. — Sov,' in the fall, in a light, rich soil, with fresh 
 seed ; thin out the plants to six or eight inches each way ; cut 
 and gather the seed in August. 
 
 Medicinal Hekbs. — Fennyroyal. — There are two varieties 
 of this herb, the Trailing and the Upright. It is easily grown in 
 a strong, moist soil. It is a valuable herb, and worthy of culti- 
 vation. 
 
 Ca?no7)iile. — This is a creeping plant, cultivated for its flowers. 
 It may be propagated by the seed, or by parting the roots. The 
 double-flowered variety is best. Plant in rows a foot apart, in 
 poor soil, if you choose, and hoe between. It flowers from June 
 to September. 
 
 Hyssop. — This is propagated from seed sown in April, or 
 from cuttings in the spring or fall. It has always been consid- 
 ered by elderly people a valuable medicinal shrub. The flower 
 spikes are used fresh or dry. 
 
 Balm. — This herb is propagated from seed or from oflsets. 
 It needs no culture of importance ; transplant when it has 
 reached the height of a few inches. 
 
 Wormvjood. — This liprl> may bo propagated from the seeds, 
 slips, or off*sets. It needs but little culture. Its leaves should be 
 cut when green, and dried for use. It is a valuable herb. 
 •■ Hoarliound. — Any common soil will answer for the culture 
 of this herb, and it may be propagated by the seeds, or division 
 of the roots. 
 
 Lavender. — This plant grov/s large, and should have room. 
 It may be propagated from seeds, but will do better by slips 
 taken off" in early spring and planted in moist, shady ground. 
 Let the plants stand three feet apart. 
 
 Tansy. — This plant is productive, and will ihrive in poor 
 soil ; it may be raised by rooted slips, or by dividing its roots. 
 Plant out in spring or autumn, in rows a foot apart each way. 
 The double tansey is the best. 
 
 Saffron. — This is a medicinal plant of great value. It should 
 be planted out in July, in rows six inches apart, and three inches 
 distant in the rows. Gather the flowers in September. 
 
107 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 GERMAN IIOT'EEDS FOR FOKCIXG GARDEN VEGETABLES, HERBS, 
 FLO^^'ERS, &C. 
 
 Take white cotton cloth of a close texture, stretch it, ajid nail 
 it on frames of any size you wish ; mix two ounces of lime- 
 water, four ounces of linseed-oil, one ounce w hite of egg sepa- 
 rately, two ounces of yolk of egg^ mix the lime and oil with a 
 very gentle heat; beat the eggs separately, and mix with the 
 former. Spread this mixture with a paint-brush over the cotton, 
 allowing each coat to dry before applying another, until they are 
 water-proof. The following are some of the advantages these 
 shades possess over glass ones. 
 
 1. The cost is hardly -one fourth as much. 
 
 2. Repairs are easily and cheaply made. 
 
 3. They are light ; they do not require watering ; no matter 
 how intense the heat- of the sun, the plants are never struck 
 down, or burnt, or faded, or checked in growth ; neither do they 
 grow up long, sick, and weakly, as they do under glass, and still 
 there is abundance of light. 
 
 4. The heat, entirely arising from below, is more equable and 
 temperate, which is. a great object. The vapor arising from the 
 manure and earth is condensed by the cool air passing over the 
 surface of the shade, ancf hangs in drops upon the outside, -and 
 therefore the plants do not require so frequent watering. If the 
 
 frames or stretchers are made large, they should be intersected 
 with crossbars about a foot square, to support the cloth. These 
 articles are just the things to bring forward flower-seeds in sea- 
 son for transplanting. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE FIiO^IVER-GARI>SN. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 THE GREEN-HOUSE ; DESCRIPTION OF FLOWERS ; SHRUBS ; MpDE 
 OF CULTURE, &C. 
 
 Water for Green- Hoiiae Flant.s. — All green-house plants, &c., 
 kept in rooms, must be constantly supplied with water, which 
 
108 
 
 should be always applied on the tops of the pots, and from no 
 consideration whatever should any be suffered to remain in the 
 water-pans under the pots, particularly in the winter season, 
 when they must also be kept clean from dead leaves, &;c. 
 
 To make Flants Bnsky and Handsonw. — When the plants be- 
 gin to draw, which will be discovered by their weak and sickly 
 appearance, and the branches^growing long and weak, the tops 
 of the shoots should be just nipped otf with the linger and thumb, 
 or a pair of scissors, which will cause them to grow bushy and 
 handsome ; and be sure not to forget to fumigate them when 
 there is any appearance of insects. 
 
 Air for Plants^ q-c. — With respect to air, tiie plants should 
 have a good share in fine, warm weather. Many people open 
 the under sash windows where the plants stand, which is a very 
 Dad practice, as they are then exposed to the draft, v/hich injures 
 them more than if they were entirely exposed to the open air. 
 
 Changmg to larger Pots. — All green-house plants should be 
 shifted every year,"about the month of May, into larger pots, in 
 light, rich, sandy compost, such as is recommended for hyacinths, 
 as most of them thrive well in it. 
 
 Geraniums raised by Cuttings and Seed. — The different sorts 
 of geraniums are generally raised by cuttings, which strike very 
 free, -and are planted and treated the same as the heliotrope ; or 
 many of the sorts may be raised by seed sown in March, in pots 
 of fine, light mould. By these means new varieties are often 
 obtained. 
 
 Herbal Plants. — As to the cultivation of herbaceous plants 
 and shrubs in pots, a few directions may be necessary. 
 
 1. The earth should be kept moderately moist. The mould 
 on the top should be dry before additional water be given. 
 
 2. The pots should be frequently turned round, or the plants 
 will grow crooked by reason of their inclining towards the sun 
 or light. 
 
 3. If the plants are to stand in pots year after year, the balls 
 of earth should be taken out in October, and the sides and bot- 
 tom shaved off with a sharp knife to the depth of an inch, more 
 or less, according to the size, and then replaced, and the pot 
 filled .with some fresh compost or very rich eartli made very fine. 
 
 4. Two thirds of good, rich earth, and one third of old, rot- 
 ten yard-manure, well incorporated, make a good compost for 
 most plants, except the bulbous-rooted, which require some sand. 
 
 5. Herbal plants should be covered in the winter with strriw^ 
 or ensrr". hay^ to affoi^ *^'^ -""''^^<'v ^i^! 
 
109 
 
 Bulbous Flower-Roots. — No class of plants is more inter- 
 esting than this. 
 
 Situation. — A southern exposure, free from north winds, not 
 too wet or dry, is best. 
 
 Soil. — Equal .parts of sarid^ old., rotten yard-manure^ and 
 good., rich earth., made fine and mixed together, make the best 
 soil for bulbous roots. Raise the beds four or five inches above 
 the level of the walks. 
 
 Trans2)laniing. — August^ .September .> and October is the sea- 
 son for transplanting most bulbous roots. Delicate and tender 
 bulbs may be })Otted in November. Tulips and Hyacinths 
 should be taken uj) and air-dried, and replanted annually, in or- 
 der to preserve their beauty. 
 
 Depths and Distances. — Large bulbs should be planted to the 
 depth of four inches ; smaller ones from two to three inches. 
 The rows should be ten or twelve inches asunder, and the roots 
 from four to six inches apart, according to their size. 
 
 Protection in the Winter. — Bulbous roots should be covered 
 "^n the winter, to the depth of four inches, with some light sub- 
 stance, such as straw, or tanners' bark, which should be removed 
 early in spring. 
 
 Management of. Bulbous Roots in Pots. — Bulbs intended 
 for blooming in the winter should be potted in October or No- 
 vember, and left out till it begins to freeze, and then placed in a 
 warm room. They Avill want, occasionally, a little water, until 
 they begin to grow ; .then they should have both air and sun, and 
 plenty of water from the saucers or pans underneath the pots. 
 
 Garden Flower-Plants, Shrubs, &;c. — Explanation. — 
 Flowers are divided into annuals^ which flower and die the year 
 they are sown ; biennials^ which flower the second year, and then 
 die ; and perennials., which do not generally flower the first year, 
 but die down to the ground annually, and spring up again every 
 succeeding spring for a number of years. 
 
 Situation. — Select a level plat, with a southern aspect, shel- 
 tered from the nortli and northeast winds. 
 
 Soil. — The ground in a garden must be kept rich, and often 
 stirred. It ought to be manured every year. A compost made 
 of decayed vegetables, yard-manure, rotten leaves, ashes, and 
 mould from any place where it can be had, is proper for a 
 garden. 
 
 Sowing and Planting. — Flower-seeds should be sown in 
 April and May ; cover small seeds with fine earth half an inch, 
 10 
 
110 
 
 large seeds in proportion. The beds should be raised tin-ee or 
 four inches above the walks, and make the rows ten or twelve 
 inches apart. 
 
 Transplanting. — Annuuh should be transplanted in June ; 
 hienniuls and perennials in September. Take up plenty of 
 earth with them ; select a cloudy day, and sec that the roots 
 stand in their natural position. 
 
 Cultivation, — Plants should be properly thinned, so as to let 
 the air and sun hasten their perfection. Keep the earth loose 
 about the plants, and in a dry season spread about them some old 
 hay, so as to retain moisture. ^ 
 
 Weeds. — No weeds should be suffered to remain in the flow- 
 er-garden, as they injure its beauty, and check the growth of the 
 plants. 
 
 Shruhheri/. — The chief work among shrubbery is to keep 
 down the weeds, stir the earth al)0ut tlie roots, to prune out the 
 dead and decaying branches, and lo keep down the suckers. 
 
 Cuttings. — Cuttings are pieces cut from trees, shrubs, or 
 plants, of the last growth, and should generally retain a small ' 
 piece of the growth immediately preceding the last or ripened 
 wood. They should be taken when the sap is active, and about 
 six joints or buds are sufficient. 
 
 If the cutting be planted in a flov/c r-})Ot, place the pot in the 
 earth, in a shady place, and cover the cutting with an inverted 
 glass for a short time, to preserve a moist atmosphere about it. 
 If they send out roots they will also send out branches, other- 
 wise they die. 
 
 Layers. — Layers are branches left on the parent plant or 
 shrub, and bent down and fastened several incht;s below the sur- 
 face of the earth, leaving the extreme part out of the ground. 
 A flat stone placed on the earth immediately above the layer is 
 useful to keep the earth cool, and to letain the moisture. When 
 they have taken sufficient root, sever tlicm from the parent stock, 
 and at any proper time they may be transplanted. 
 
 Gravel-u'alks and edgings are the best, and indee J only proper 
 divisions of the floAver-garden. 
 
 Box is perhaps dear at first, but it is eventually tlie cheapest, 
 as well as the best border you can have, being undoubtedly the 
 prettiest thing for the purpose. It may be kept to any width or 
 height ; it has great durability, and thrives in all sorts of soils, 
 though much the best in dry, and under all aspects. This plant 
 is of ver}'- easy propagation. 
 
Ill 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 GREEN-HOUSE AND PARLOR PLANTS. 
 
 Anemones. — The single anemone., or wind-Jiojoer, may be 
 raised in great variety from seed sown in March, in beds four 
 feet wide. Cover the seed not more than tlie eighth of an inch, 
 and spread a mat over it, which should be watered tjll it is up ; 
 then expose it to the sun by degrees, with frequent waterings. 
 The double kinds are propagated by parting the roots, 
 
 2%e Camellia Japonica., or Japan Rose. — This plant is adapt- 
 ed to the 7'oom., green-hoiisc, or Iwt-kouse. The most common 
 varieti(!s are tlie Siiigle and Double Red, Double White, and the 
 Double Striped. They require a fine, rich loam, large pots, and 
 should be shifted every year in the beginning of summer. They 
 are propagated by seed, layers, or cuttings. 
 
 Lilies of Ike Valley. — These do well in common mould; 
 each crown blows only once in three years ; the best time for pot- 
 ting them is from January to March. 
 
 W kite Lilies. — These are beautiful plants for rooms; they 
 may be taken up in Jani#ry or February. Keep them in a 
 warm, sunny window, and give plenty of water. After the 
 bloom is over, they may be planted out in the gardg;i-border. 
 
 Mignonette. — These may be sown thick in pots or boxes 
 a an}'- season of the year ; should be transplanted when in the 
 rough leaf. They require a light, rich mould, a sunny window, 
 wilh plenty of water. # 
 
 Persian Iris. — The iris is propagated by the offsets from old 
 roots. They succeed well in a dry situation, with natural soil. 
 Plant them out in small pots of sandy loam. It is a beautiful 
 flower, and a few pots will scent a large room. 
 
 Roses. — Varieties of , Sfc. — The White Province., Common 
 Province., and the Moss Rose are the best for forcing, and they 
 do well in pots. Pot them in the fall as soon as the leaves are off. 
 The queen fly, so destructive, may be destro3'^cd by fumjigating 
 whh tobacco. Rosds are propagated by' cuttings, layers, suck- 
 ers, ^'C. The China ovMonthly Rose is a beautiful plant for the 
 room. * 
 
 Single and Double Jonquils. — These are to be treated like 
 the hyacinth. They should be planted in the ground or in pots, 
 from October to January. Six or eight roots m a pot, with light, 
 
112 
 
 rich, garden mould, is the rule. Give plenty of water, and a 
 wai-in room, and they will blow finely. 
 
 Tuberoses. — These are of the double and sinyie variety ; they 
 are very fragrant, and easily brought to perfection. Plant in 
 April or May, in fine, rich compost, in medium pots ; plant one 
 root in tlie centre of the pot. 
 
 The Verhena Trifoliata^ or Sweet. Vervain. — This plant will 
 live in tlic open ground, and is propagated by slips or cuttings., 
 in summer. Plant them in large pots, give plenty of water, and 
 they will strike root in a month. They are beautiful room plants, 
 especially for summer. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 GARDEN FLOWER-PLANTS ; SHRUBBERY. 
 
 Annuals and Perennials. — Almond., Double Floioering. — 
 This is propagated by suckers, and, when in bloom, is a veiy su- 
 perior shrub. It blooms in the spring, with beaytiful flowers re- 
 sembling roses. 
 
 Amaranth. — Annual ; plant in May ; flowers late, and is 
 tender. 
 
 Aster y China. — Sow the seed in early spring ; flowers late, 
 and will endure some frost. There are many species, and they 
 are beautifully variegated. % 
 
 Box. — Small, delicate shrub, and may be pruned to any 
 shape. It is an evergreen, and well suited to borders ; is prop- 
 agated by cuttings and dividing the roots. 
 
 Brier., Sweet. — This is a bush "of the rose family, very 
 hardy ; bright and fragrant foliage, and will grow in poor ground. 
 
 Carnation. — There are several varieties. Best propagated 
 by layers ; tender as to frost. Put them in large pots. They 
 are beautiful and fragrant. 
 
 Catalpa. — This is propagated by seed. It is a beautiful tree, 
 and is much admired for its foliage and showy flowers. 
 
 Cherry. — Thi* is one of the most beautiful trees in the flow- 
 er-garden. 
 
 Chrysanthemum. — This is a beautiful flower; will stand the 
 frost; should be potted in August or September. There are 
 many varieties, which may be propagated by dividing the roots. 
 
il;] 
 
 Cohimhine, — Very common ; is pretty and ornamental. There 
 are many species. Perennial. 
 
 Convolculus, or Morning- Glory. — This is a great runner, of 
 variegated colors. Sow the seed in early spring. 
 
 Crocus. — Propagated by bulbs ; is of various colors ; veiy 
 hardy anoTeariy. 
 
 Dahlia. — This is an autumnal fiowcring plant. There are 
 several varieties, single and double; \\ ill grow in almost any 
 soil ; propagated by seed and dividing the roots; sow the seed in 
 MoTch, in pots. 
 
 Da isy. — This is propagated by offsets; is hardy, and well 
 suited to rooms. It produces beautiiul flowers, in summer or 
 winter. 
 
 Geranium. — This is one of the finest plants in the floral 
 kingdom, except that it is tender. There are many varieties ; 
 some have flowers, others none ; some are veiy fragrant, while 
 others are beautiful leaved. Propagated by cuttings. 
 
 Golden Coreopsis. — This is easily raised from seed ; — is a 
 splendid annual plant, and produces a profusion of variegated 
 flowers. 
 
 Hollyhock. — This is a showy plant for shrubbery, and has 
 manv varieties. It is perennial and hardy. 
 
 Honeysuckle. — This is a valuable climbing plant, and forms 
 most beautiful arbors and bowers ; it blooms in clusters. There 
 are several varieties which are very fragrant. They may be 
 propagated by seed, cuttings, or layers. 
 
 Hyacinth. — This is a perennial and bulbous plant. It flowers 
 early and is fragrant. There are%nany varieties, both single 
 and double, and are best propagated by oflsets. 
 
 Hydrangea. — This is a small shrub, with large, changeable 
 flowers. It is a house-plant, but will bear some frost, and is 
 propagated by cuttings. 
 
 Ice Plant. — This is an annual of an icy appearance. The 
 seed should be sown in pots early in the spring. 
 
 Iris., or Flower -de- Lite e. — This is a large, hardy plant. It is 
 a perennial, and of many varieties ; shows well in a border, and 
 may be propagated by dividing the roots. 
 
 Laurel. — This is an evergreen shrub, Vvdiich bears flowers of 
 great delicacy, being white, tinged wirh red. 
 
 Larkspur. — This plant is easily propagated by seed. It is 
 an annual of variegated colors, but no fragrance. 
 
 Lilac. — This is a large, fragrant slu'ub, very hardy, and 
 10*- 
 
114 
 
 blooms early. The white and the purple are the varieties of 
 value. It is propagated by suckers. 
 
 Moniing Bride. — The seed should be planted early in spring. 
 It is an annual plant, of beautiful flowers, but which fades in a 
 few hours. 
 
 Mountain Ash. — This is a beautiful ornamental tree, ad- 
 mired for its foliage and scarlet berries. It is propagated from 
 the seed. 
 
 Myrtle. — This is a valuable evergreen vine, bearing blue 
 flowers. There are several varieties, and all very pretty. 
 
 Nasturtium. — This is an annual plant, with showy flowers. 
 The seeds are used for pickling. Sow the seed early, and sup- 
 port the plants by sticks. 
 
 Passion-Flower. — This is a perennial vine of beautiful flow- 
 ers, most suited to the green-house, and is propagated from 
 cuttings. 
 
 Peony. — This plant is propagated by offsets. It has a grand 
 flower, but of brief existence. There are several varieties. 
 
 Pink. — There are many varieties of this plant, all of which 
 are fragrant in flower. The}^ are ornamental in the garden, and 
 are easily propagated by seed, layers, and by dividing the roots. 
 
 Polyant.lius. — There are many varieties. It is hardy, has 
 many flowers, and blooms best in a shady situation. Propagated 
 by dividing the roots. 
 
 Poppy. — This is an annual plant, of very handsome double 
 and single flowers. Its properties are medicinal. 
 
 Roses (Rosa). — This favorite flower is worthy of all the 
 care and attention that can be paid to it. There are many vari- 
 eties, as to size, singularity, foliage, beauty, and fragrance. No 
 class of plants yields more intrinsic delights than this. It is un- 
 rivalled. To describe the beauties and excellence of the various 
 species would fill a volume. 
 
 They may be propagated from seed, but as the seed seldom 
 comes up till the second year, the usual mode of propagation is 
 by suckers, which come out near the old stems, during the sum- 
 mer. The suckers, when planted out, should be cut down to 
 four or five inches of the ground. The time for planting is 
 either in the months of October and November, or in April. As 
 to the management, the ground should be kept good, and dug 
 every autumn. They should, except when trained against a 
 wall, be kept cut down to a certain height, according to their 
 natural size ; for when they get long stems and limbs, they pro- 
 
115 
 
 duce fewer flowers. All tlie weak, dead, or dying wood should 
 be pruned out close, witliout leaving any ugly stubs. 
 
 :Sibcrian Crab. — This is a small tree, valued for its large, 
 fragrant flowers and small fruit. 
 
 Snoicball-Tree. — This is a most beautiful shrub in bloom, 
 and may be propagated by suckers. .• 
 
 Snowberry. — A small shrub which, in the full, produces clus- 
 ters of white fruit. Propagated by suckers. 
 
 Spircea. — A small shrub which blooms full of delicate flow- 
 ers in its season. Propagated by suckers. 
 
 Si/rincra. — A shrub which flowers like the orange, and is 
 propagated by suckers. 
 
 Str^awberry-Tree {Euonymus). — A handsome shrub, which 
 yields abundant fruit in the autumn resembling strawberry. Prop- 
 agated by seed and suckers. 
 
 Sweet^Pea. — This produces many clusters of showy and fra- 
 grant flowers. The seed should be planted early in spring. 
 
 Sweet William, or Poetic Pink. — This is a plant which pro- 
 duces handsome flowers of small size. Propagated by seed, or 
 dividing the roots. From the seed new varieties come by chance. 
 
 Tulips. — The family of tulips are very numerous. There is 
 one garden in New -York where more than six hundred varieties 
 are cultivated. They may be raised from seed^ but are best cul- 
 tivated from bulbs. 
 
 The Smoke - Tree. — This is a very singular, though beautiful 
 tree, which is loaded in summer with tufts of russet-colored 
 down. It is quite ornamental to the garden. Propagated by 
 layers and suckers. 
 
 Violet. Blue Fragrant. — This plant blooms early in the sea- 
 son, and continues some time in flowei\ It is perennial, flowers 
 blue, double, and fragrant. Propagated by dividing the roots. 
 
 ^W" We close the flower-garden by remarking that the culti- 
 vation of flowers is an appropriate? and healthy amusement for 
 young ladies. It teaches neatness, cultivates a correct taste, and 
 furnishes the mind with many pleasing ideas. 
 
116 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 BOOK OP IlfOKTICUIiTUItE. 
 
 •• SECTION I. 
 
 HORTICULTURAL OPERATIONS. 
 
 Grafting. — Grafting fruit-trees is a delicate operation, and 
 for private gardens we would recommend the purchase of trees 
 all ready for planting out. 
 
 Stocks. -^ Stocks should always stand one summer in a given 
 place before grafting, but not longer, lest the roots become too 
 large. 
 
 Operation of Grafting. — The operation of grafting consists 
 in removing a branch from one tree, and inserting it on the stem 
 of another, in such a way that the stock on which the cutting is 
 placed sends up its sap into the cutting, and thus nourishes and 
 makes it grow into a tree occupying the place of the natural 
 head of the stock, which has been removed to make way for the 
 graft. When a cutting is thus applied it is called a scion. 
 
 Time of Grafting. — Grafting is generally performed some 
 time between the beginning of February and the end of March. 
 But the proper period of grafting depends on the nature of the 
 season, whether it be a late or early one, and must be determined 
 by the fulness and bursting appearance of the buds on the stocks, 
 and should be regulated by the mildness of the' weather, which, 
 with occasional showers, is favorable for this operation. 
 
 April is a good season for grafting. Cherries, plums, and ap- 
 ricots should he set first. They generally succeed well, if set by 
 the middle or the 20th of the month. Pears do better if set tol- 
 erably early ; but if scions are in good condhion, any time in 
 the month or the first of May is in season. Apple scions may 
 be set any time in this month or in May. Young stocks grafted 
 late at the ground are apt to bleed and fail, and in all cases of 
 late grafting there will, of course, be less growth ; and for this 
 reason some graft in June, lest the scions grow too rank. 
 
 Scions. — Select your scions in February from the last year's 
 growth of a healthy tree. Bur^j* these branches to the middle 
 in dry mould, and keep them till the time of grafting. Each 
 scion should have from three to six buds. Do not apply water to 
 them. 
 
117 
 
 Principle of Grafting. — The principle of grafting is bring- 
 ing the under or inner bark of the scion in exact contact w.ith the 
 bark of the stock, and the nicety of the operation consists in fix- 
 ing these two'iiarks so closely one to the other, that the sap may 
 proceed into the scion just as it would have flowed into the 
 branch which has been removed. 
 
 Kinds of Grafting, — There are several modes of grafting 
 practised, but those most in use are tongue and cleft grafting. 
 
 Budding. — Budding is a species of grafting, and is performed 
 for the same purpose. The method usually employed is that 
 called the T, or shield budding ; the first designation being 
 taken from the form of the two cuts that are made in the bark, 
 the second from the form the piece of bark assumes which is cut 
 off, containing the bud when it is r»ady to be inserted within the 
 stock. 
 
 Time of Budding. — Budding is usually performed from the 
 latter end of July to the latter end of August, the exact time be- 
 ing determined by the plump appearance of the bud formed on 
 the spring shoot of the same year, and a readiness in the bark 
 of the stock to separate from the wood. 
 
 Advantages of Budding. — Budding has several advantages 
 over grafting; it is not only more applicable to the whole race of 
 stoned fruits, but it may be performed in July, when the grafting 
 has failed in March or April. Stone fruits, which have been 
 budded, are less given to gum than when grafted, and gumming 
 is often very detrimental. You 'may also put two or more 
 branches upon a stock by budding, that would be too weak 
 to take more than one by grafting. The only disadvantage 
 attendant on budding is, that the trees are a year longer in com- 
 ing to bear by this process than by grafting. 
 
 Inarching. — Inarching, or grafting by approach, is used only 
 for particular trees that do not propagate freely by any other 
 method. It is mostly practised on exotic plants, and is performed 
 in various ways, according to the kind or condition of the plant 
 operated upon. It is usually performed by cutting similar slices 
 of bark and wood of!" both stock and graft, applying one to the 
 other, and then binding them neatly together. 
 
 Root Grafting. — Root grafting is only resorted to v/hen there 
 is a want of suitable stocks, particularly in- the propagation of 
 rare plants. From such a one a root may sometimes be spared, 
 to which one of its own shoots may be united without injury to 
 the original, and thus two trees be obtained. 
 
118 
 
 Pruning Trees. ■ — August is one of the best, if not the best 
 month, for this operation. The bark does not readily start from 
 the wood, and as the tree is in fohage, the operator can see to 
 thin the lirnbs judiciously. But the great advantage in pruning 
 at this time is, that where the limb is cut oiF, tlie trunk remains 
 sound, whether it heals over soon or not. 
 
 Pruning Stone-Fruit- Trees. — It has been but a few years, 
 since the cultivators of fruit have been in the habit of pruning 
 peach-trees at the extremities of the branches, instead of cutting 
 off limbs at the trunk. This system of shortening in, as it is 
 called, is gaining ground, and it is a great improvement. The 
 reasons for this mode of pruning are evident on examination. 
 Most kinds of stone fruit grow rapidly, and bear the greater part 
 of their fruit on new wood, .^which is, of course, near the ends of 
 the limbs. In this way a tree spreads over much land, and has 
 naked branches near the trunk ; and pruning at the trunk causes 
 the gum to ooze out, which sometimes endangers the health 
 of the tree. 
 
 On the contrary, by pruning at the ends of the branches, the 
 tree is confined to a small space, the wounds have no unfavorable 
 effect, or only affect the twigs, and not the trunk, and much new 
 wood is produced for the production • of fruit. 
 
 On Setting Fruit- Trees. — In any location where winds gen- 
 erally prevail in one direction, there is an advantage in setting 
 the tree leaning a litt]e to the windvv^ird ; and in case the wind is 
 in a southern direction, these is the additional advantage of 
 avoiding the powerful effects of the sun on the trunk. But this 
 effect of the sun is less on the apple than on the cherry and 
 pear. 
 
 Training Fruit- Trees. — The training and priming the apple- 
 tree in garden culture is an art but little practised in this country; 
 in Europe, on the contrary, every garden, however limited its 
 extent, has a few trees trained on espaliers beside the walks, or 
 against the walls and fences. It would surprise those unacquaint- 
 ed with that mode of culture, to be told the quantity of fruit, of 
 the finest quality, thus obtained. 
 
 Modes of Training. — Apple-trees are trained in three differ- 
 ent ways : first, as standards, which is the method pursued in or- 
 chards and large gardens ; then, as espaliers, which is a very 
 advantageous method for small gardens, but trees so trained re- 
 quire very constant attention to keep them in good order; but 
 when they are properly attended to, perhaps more fruit is obtained 
 
119 
 
 thus than by any other method. Some kinds of apples will suc- 
 ceed against a wall, but as a general rule it is by no means a 
 good method ; when it is resorted to, they may be either trained 
 horizontally, or by the fan-training ; the latter is best where the 
 wall is more than six feet high, as the tree will thus sooner fill 
 its allotted space. 
 
 Espalier Training. — Espaliers are very convenient in small 
 gardens, as they form a kind of hedge on each side of a path, 
 thus occupying but little room, and generally bearing well. 
 The trees should first be trained to one central shoot ; and this 
 must be constantly headed down till it throws out a sufficient 
 number of lateral shoots, which are to be spread out in a. hori- 
 zontal direction ; never being stopped till they have attained the 
 length you choose them finally to occupy, when the end should 
 be cut ofi', which will cause them to throw out other laterals and 
 fruit-spurs. In planting a tree which you design to train as an 
 espalier, select one which has a good, strong shoot comhig up 
 from the graft. 
 
 New Method of training Apple-Trees, — A new and veiy suc- 
 cessful method of training apple-trees, similar to that employed 
 for the red currant, has been recently adopted. All the lateral 
 branches are cut off as they arise, to within one or two inches of 
 the main branches ; after a few years these become well fur- 
 nished with fruit-bearing spurs, and trees thus trained not only 
 occupy much less room than espaliers, but are more productive*. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 APPLE, PEAR, PLUM, CHERRY, PEACH, QUINCE, &C. 
 
 Apples. — There are a great variety of apples now cultivated, 
 but we offer only the following list ; they are all unimpeachably 
 good fruits for all situations and sections of the country. 
 
 Early Harvest. — This is a very tender, juicy, sub-acid fla- 
 vored apple, excellent for cooking. It is ripe .the first of August. 
 
 Early Strawberry. — Tliis is a good sort to cultivate. It is a 
 good bearer, and of delicate taste, slightly acid, rather small, and 
 is ripe in August. 
 
 Williams Favorite. — This apple ripens in August; is a slow 
 grower, but excellent bearer ; pleasant taste, large, and bright 
 red ; very profitable variety. 
 
120 
 
 Gravenstein. — This ap})ie is very valuable, and holds mnk 
 with the Porter; some prefer it. Is ripe late in September; 
 rather acid. 
 
 Pointer. — This is a good grovver and bearer, and excellent 
 flavored ; good for cooking and the dessert ; is ripe in September, 
 and forms tlie principal apple in the markets of its season. 
 
 Baldwin. — Tliis is a valuable winter apple, of a rich flavor, 
 well suited to purposes of cooking or market retailing. It is a 
 prodigious grower and bearer, and ripens in November ; it is the 
 most valuable of all our winter fruit. 
 
 Ladies'' Sweeting. — This is one of the finest sweetings; 
 juicy, and crispy, good flavor, large fruit, and a vigorous and pro- 
 ductive tree ; promises to become the most popular of the late 
 sweet apples. 
 
 Rhode Island Greening. — This is a rapid and stout grower, 
 a great bearer of excellent eating or cool^ing fruit ; succeeds 
 well on light, sandy soil, and is always reliable as a main crop. 
 It is, in fact, a standard apple. 
 
 Roxbunj Russet. — This is a valuable fruit, as it will keep 
 sound into the following summer ; good for cooking, and the tree 
 is a great bearer. Its flavor is sligiitly acid, and pleasant when 
 fully ripe. 
 
 The following list are all good varieties, and worthy the atten- 
 tion of fruit-growers : — 
 
 *. American Crolden Russet, English Pearmain, Garden Royal, 
 Hubbardston Nonesuch, Newtown Pippin, Porter's Sweeting, 
 Pumpkin vSweeting, Red Astrachan, Cole's Quince, Esopus 
 Spitzenberg. 
 
 Pears. — We recommend the following list of pears as very 
 choice, hardy fruit, and well worthy of cultivation. 
 
 Bartlett. — This pear, on account of its great growth, earh" 
 bearing, delicacy of flavor, &c., ranks highest among pears. If. 
 is rather tender, and not as v/ell adapted to a northern climate as 
 some other kinds. Ripens best indoors. 
 
 Beurre Bosc. — This is a foreign fruit, of uniform good qual- 
 ity, and bears the highest character ; should be worked on 
 quince. Delicious flavor, and slightly perfumed. 
 
 Dix. — This is one of the most splendid of all pears, when 
 perfected, but is quite uncertain in its yield. Very juicy, rich, 
 and sugary, of fine flavor and fragrance ; bears early. 
 
 Foiidante de A utomne. — This is a foreign pear, hardy, and a 
 good bearer ; requires a warm soil and good season. But few 
 excel it in richness and flavor. 
 
121 
 
 Gi^ay Dayenne. — This pear is much esteemed in the Middle 
 States, but is apt to blast in the East. It is of a- rich, cinnamon 
 ► flavor, and a good bearer. 
 
 Louise Bon de Jerscij. — This pear is of excellent flavor, 
 rich and juicy, and considered by some equal to the Bartlett. It 
 is a good bearer, and does well on the quince. 
 
 Seckel. — This pear does well on the thorn-root, apple, and 
 even mountain-ash. It is a slow grower, but great bearer ; has 
 a rich, sweet, buttery flavor ; requires high culture. 
 
 Be/urre de Aremherg. — This is called a good winter pear by 
 those who like a smart champagne flavor. It is hardy and pro- 
 ductive, buf rather variable. 
 
 Winter Nelis. — This is a highly luscious-flavored pear, of 
 musky perfume. It is a good grower, productive, and its fruit 
 uniformly good. It is the best winter pear. 
 
 1^" There are many other valuable pears, among which we 
 will only refer to the following : — 
 
 Bell, Dearborn's Seedlings, Flemish Beauty, Vicar of Wake- 
 field, V/ashington, D. N. B. Pear. 
 
 1^^ We do not remember to have seen this last-named pear in 
 any of our catalogues, yet from our own experience we. can 
 speak of it as one of the most juicy and best flavored of any 
 we are acquainted with. It originated with Joseph Moulton, 
 Esq., of Lynn, Mass., of whom it can be obtained. 
 
 Plums. — We recommend the following as our choice list of 
 plums. 
 
 BIeecker''s Gage. — This is a very popular plum ; good bearer, 
 thrifty, and hardy ; sweet, luscious flavor. 
 
 Coe'*s Golden Drops. — This is a very large, late plum ; beau- 
 tiful flavor, and a good bearer. Best adapted to the Middle 
 States, though in warm locations it does well in the North. 
 
 Diapree Rouge. — This is a juicy and delicious plum, a good 
 bearer, and tne fruit hangs well ; first-rate plum. 
 
 Green Gage. — This phim is a standard of excellence. It iss 
 a good bearer, and not excelled in flavor. 
 
 Jefferson. — This is a good bearer ; fruit hangs long, and 
 is not liable to rot ; nearly equal to the Gage, and is very 
 large. 
 
 Laivrence'^s Faiforif.e. — This is a good grower and bearer; 
 delicious flavor, resembling and almost equal to the Green Gage, 
 though larger. 
 
 Smith''s Orleans. — This is a hardy and vigorous tree, and 
 11 
 
1^2 
 
 adapted to a variety of soil and climate ; fruit of a vinous, 
 sprightly flavor ; excellent for market. 
 
 Purple Favorite, — This plum is very juicy and melting, 
 hardy, and a good bearer, with a dwarfish habit. Rather large, 
 with a long stem. 
 
 There are many other varieties, of which we cannot speak, but 
 the above are all rehable, and sufficient for moderate garden 
 purposes. 
 
 Cherries. — The following is our favorite list of cherries ; 
 they are right in every respect. 
 
 Baumann's May. — Dark red ; tender and juicy, sweet and 
 good ; great bearer, and very early. 
 
 Black Tartarean. — Very large plum, and is ripe about the 
 first of July. Upright grower, and a good bearer. Fruit very 
 salable on account of its size. 
 
 Black Eagle. — This is a standard of excellence ; quite large, 
 of the finest flavor, and ripens last of June. Good bearer, is 
 hardy, and suited to the North. 
 
 Dow7ier''s Late. — This is a very hardy tree, and a great and 
 sure bearer ; ripens about the 12th of Jul}^ ; extremely juicy and 
 good -flavored. 
 
 Downton. — Very hardy, and suited to the climate of Maine ; 
 rich, delicious flavor, and ripens last of June. 
 
 Bigarreau. — This is a hardy tree, of vigorous growth and a 
 great bearer ; flesh firm and juicy, with rich flavor ; a fine mar- 
 ket cherry ; apt to rot in a wet season. 
 
 Elton. — A vigorous tree, but moderate bearer ; fruit very 
 large, tmd of the finest quality ; ripens the latter part of June. 
 
 May Duke. — This is one of the best early cherries, and suit- 
 ed to a variety of soil and climate ; tree largo, and a great bear- 
 er ; well suited to the State of Maine. Slightly acid ; ripens in 
 June. 
 
 11^ The above we consider the best assortment in growth; 
 persons wishing a large variety, arc referred to Cole's Fruit 
 Book for a choice catalogue. 
 
 Peaches. — The following we ofler as our choice list of 
 peaches. 
 
 Early York. — This is a very beautiful and delicious-flavored 
 peach, of medium size. It ranks amon.ij; ihe finest of our early 
 kinds ; ripens the last of August. 
 
 George the Fourth. — This is one of tlio i»est variety for gar- 
 den culluie. It is large, and ripens early iji St i»tejnber. 
 
123 
 
 Gross Mignonne. — This is a good fruit, flesh wliitish, but red 
 at the stone ; vinous flavor ; large, and ripens early in September. 
 
 Coolidge^s Fanorite. — This is a vigorous, ^ardy, and produc- 
 **tive tree ; the fruit is rich, and of the finest character ; too ten- 
 der for market purposes, but not excelled for garden culture ; 
 ripens early in September. 
 
 Bergeti's Yelloiu. — This is among the very best for general 
 culture ; a rich and excellent flavor ; good grower and bearer ; 
 ripens about the 28th of September, and is very large. 
 
 Early Clielmusford. — This is a very hard}^, vigorous, and pro- 
 ductive tree ; very large fruit, of excellent flesh and flavor, and 
 one of the very handsomest of the earl}^ kind. Ripens 20th of 
 August. 
 
 Oldmixon Freestone. — This is a large fruit, of excellent flesh 
 and flavor ; one of the best for the raark<3t. Ripens about the 
 middle of September. 
 
 Large White Clingstone. — This is a long-lived, hardy, vigor- 
 ous, and productive tree ; is one of the best for orchard culture 
 in the North. Ripens about the middle of September, and is 
 valuable for preserves. 
 
 * l^ There are many other varieiies of the peach, which we 
 have not room to mention ; for a full catalogue, we would refer 
 the reader to Cole''s Fruit Book. 
 
 The Quince. — It is thought by many that there is only one 
 kind of the quince, the apparent variet)^ being modifications of 
 the one stock. There are only four kinds worthy of attention, 
 and used for cooking purposes. We will mention them in the 
 order of value. 
 
 Apple Quince. — The flesh of this quince is firm, but tender 
 when cooked, and is of good flavor. It is earlier than tlie 
 pear, but will not keep as well. 
 
 Pear-shaped. — Color, golden yellow; flesh firm and astrin- 
 gent; a fine, aromatic flavor, and highly prized for cooking; 
 fair bearer, and ripens in October. 
 
 Portugal Quince. — This fruit is largest in the middle, not 
 veiy fragrant, but flesh rather tender ; is a shy bearer. 
 
 Mask Quince. — Very small, but of high flavor ; but little cul- 
 tivated, and on account of their size not fit for market. 
 
 There are several ornamental varieties, such as the Chinese., 
 Japan, Blush Japan, ^c. 
 
 Apricots. — We shall recommend only two kinds for garden 
 culture ; these are reliable and satisfactory. 
 
121: 
 
 Moorpark. — This fruit is of English origin, slow growth, but 
 an enormous bearer; should have a sheltered loeation hi the cli- 
 mate of Ne\y Engkuid. Rich flavor, and ripens early in August. 
 
 Breda. — This fruit is of a rich, juicy, pleasant", vinous flavor, 
 excellent for preserves ; ripens early in August. Originated in 
 Africa, and is vigorous and productive. 
 
 ly There arc many other kinds, such as Browti's Early., 
 NewliaWs Early., Duhois'^s Early Golden., He?nskirke, Large 
 Early., Peach, Roman., ^-c, but we give the best, in our opinion, 
 for culture, and refer the general reader to more extensive fruit 
 catalogues. 
 
 Nectarines. — Elruge. — This is one of the finest nectarines, 
 rich, juicy, melting, and of beautiful flavor. Originated in Eng- 
 land ; is very productive, and ripens early in Se})tember. 
 
 Early Violet. — This fruit is of a superior size, beauty, and 
 finish. Will do well in a Now England climate. 
 
 The Boston and HmU''s Tawney are also good varieties and 
 worthy of attention. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 SHRUB AND VINE FRUITS. 
 
 Currants. — These are the favorite fruits of our cottage gar- 
 dens, and are distinguished as tchite^ red., and black. 
 
 Soil., Propagation, Culture., Sj-c. — The currant will flourish 
 on almost any soil, but will do best in a moist, rich, deep loam. 
 Cuttings may be set early in spring, in good soil ; in two years 
 they will be large enough to plant out. If propagated by ofi-sets, 
 they will give a fair crop the first year. They will grow either 
 in a warm situation, or in the sliade. Perhaps it is as well to 
 have some placed in each of these situations, as those in the 
 warm spot will, of course, come to maturity the earliest, but 
 those grown in the shade wilt be the largest, and of the finest 
 flavor, being free from that disagreeable sharpness oflen found in 
 curraiits grown in a warm or a too sunny spot. The currant 
 will thrive and bear fruit well under the shade of other trees. 
 
 Varieties. — The common, small currant is well known, 
 though in comparison with the cultivated fruit they aTe hardly 
 wurthy of attention. 
 
125 
 
 1. Large Red Dutch. — Grows in large cliislors, is loss acid 
 than tlie common red, and much larger. 
 
 2. White Dutch. — This is a very hardy bush, and will (iour 
 ""ish in the cold climate of Maine. Its fruit is large, yellowish- 
 white, and is much less acid than the red. 
 
 There are many other varieties, sue!) as the Champagne, 
 Knight^s Early Red., KnigWs Sweet Red, May^s Victoria, 
 Cheney, Black Naples, Common Black, S^'C. 
 
 Besides these, there are several ornamental kinds, such as the 
 Missouri, from the liock}^ Mountains, very fragrant, with yellow 
 blossoms, the Red Flowering Currant, ^'c. 
 
 Gooseberry. — Soil, Propagation, Culture. — This is a fruit 
 which, like the currant, with which it is generally associated, 
 will grow in nearly any soil, and is found in almost every gar- 
 den ; it may be propagated either by cuttings or from seed- 
 The best time for taking cuttings is in November; they will, 
 however, grow, if planted any time between that month and 
 March or April, but those planted in November or December 
 produce the best plants, and are least liable to fail. Cuttings 
 must not be taken from the root-suckers of the same year, but 
 •from shoots of a medium size, taken off about a foot or more in 
 length ; the top must be cut off, as must all tlie buds but four. 
 Two or three shallow notches are to be made in the bark at the 
 root end ; these cause root-fibres to sprout o\\\. 
 
 Varieties. — 1. Houghtun''s Seedling. — This is a very hardy 
 bush, and a prodigious bearer. Fruit rather small, but very ten- 
 der and sweet ; excellent for the dessert. Originated with Abel 
 Houghton, of Lynn, Massachusetts. 
 
 2. Crown Bob. — This is a large, oval, red currant, of the 
 first quality ; spreading branches, and of easy culture. 
 
 3. Whitesmith. — This is a large, roundish-oblong, white, 
 downy currant, of the first quality. Its branches are erect and 
 handsome, its culture easy. 
 
 We give the above, as best adapted, in our judgment, to gar- 
 den culture, though there are many other good varieties, such as 
 the Red Warrington, Roaring Lion, Parkinson''s LaurjeJ, 
 Keene''s Seedling, Early Sulphur, Green Walnut, Yelloio 
 Champagne, Venus, Red Champagne. 
 
 Raspberry. — Soil, Propagation, Culture. — The raspberry 
 
 will thrive best in deep, rich, moisJ, sandy iuam. It is ])ropa- 
 
 gated l)y offsets containing two or three sj)ri)ULS. Set tliem five 
 
 feet between the rows, and Uiree and a half i'vA-X between the hills. 
 
 11* 
 
126 
 
 Varielies. — I. A mrriran Black. — Tl)is variety is well known, 
 as it grows spontaneously on new and old lands. It is vigorous 
 and produetive ; improves greatly by cultivation; excellent for 
 pics, and other cooking purposes. Ripens late, and is long in 
 its season, or succession. 
 
 2. American White. — This is much like the black, excepting 
 the color. The bush is more vigorous. 
 
 3. AinericaiL Red. — This is the common red, of natural 
 growth ; quite early, and is much used for flavoring liquors. 
 
 4. Oliio Eoerhearing. — This is much like the American 
 Black, except that it is more fruitful, and bears late, even to No- 
 vember, and is valuable to keep up a long succession. 
 
 l^^ The above varieties are very hardy, and need no protec- 
 tion. They are the best for a Northern climate, and they greatly 
 improve by cultivation. Our choice varieties are foreign, and 
 need protection in Vvinter. The Franconia is tolerably hardy, 
 and vv'ell adapted to Northern culture. It ripens the last of July, 
 and is superior for preserves. 
 
 For a list of foreign varieties we refer to more extensive cata- 
 logues. 
 
 Stimwberhy. — Soil., Manure., Culture^ Varieties., Sfc. — This 
 fruit grows well on any good tillage, either moist or dry ; deep, 
 friable loam is best. Wood-ashes, bone-manure, plaster, or sta- 
 ble-manure may be used. The plants will propagate themselves 
 very fast by runners, August is considered the best month for 
 setting the plants. There are but three or four varieties worthy 
 of garden culture. 
 
 1. Early Virginia. — This is an excellent early fruit, very 
 vigorous, and a great bearer ; very juicy, and of superior flavor ; 
 good for the market. Ripens in June. 
 
 2. Hovey''s Seedling. — This is the best strawberry known in 
 Massachusetts ; a great bearer, sprightly flavor, very large, and 
 ripens early in June. 
 
 3. Boston Pine. — This is a little later than the Early Vir- 
 ginia. It is a great bearer, and the fruit is of excellent quality, 
 large size, juicy, and of good flavor. 
 
 4. Stvainstone''s Seedling. — This is a good fruit, of fine fla- 
 vor ; size large ; fl.esh solid ; vigorous grower and moderate 
 bearer ; matures gradually ; foreign. 
 
 There are many other kinds, but we do not recommend their 
 culture, svs they are not certain. The above specimens bear the 
 best character, having been thoroughly tested. 
 
127 
 
 Cranberry. — The cranberry grows wild in the marslies and 
 meadows of New England. It is also common in Michigan^ 
 and other parts of the West. It has been found growing spon- 
 taneously in some places, on high land. The cultivation of the 
 cranberry ,on upland has been usually very successful. When 
 attempted, the pl^i is to plough deep, or remove the top soil or 
 sod previous to setting the plants, and the poorest kind of soil is 
 the best, provided it will stand a drought tolerably fair, and mulch 
 tlie first year, stirring the soil well with the cultivator, or hoe be- 
 tween the drills. 
 
 Barberry. — This is a shrub but little cultivated, though the 
 fruit is, in some sections, much esteemed for preserving, on ac- 
 count of its agreeable acidity. The Shakers, at Lebanon, N. 
 Y., have paid some attention to it, and send the fruit to the city 
 of New York for sale. It is raised from the seed, or from 
 suckers of the parent plant ; requires but little cultivation, and 
 should be planted in the outer part of the garden, under the shel- 
 ter of taller trees, or the shade of a hedge, as tTie rays of a 
 hot sun prevent the fruit attaining a large size. 
 
 Blackberry. — The blackberry is a native of this country, 
 and grows spontaneously, producing large crops of superior fruit 
 on new lands. It ripens long in succession, coming in after the 
 raspberry. It grows well, when cultivated in a rich, mellow soil. 
 
 1. High 5w5/i. — This fruit is large and juicy, of excellent 
 flavor, making a valuable dessert. 
 
 2. Low Bush. — Excellent fruit ; reddish-black ; pleasant tart, 
 and good flavor. 
 
 Grape. — The grape-vine is propagated from cuttings or from 
 layers. 
 
 1. Layers. — A layer is a shoot from the vine, laid into the 
 ground, having a sloping cut made in the under side of it through 
 a joint. When the slit is properly made, and the shoot laid into 
 the ground, the fore part of the shoot is then to be tacked to the 
 wall, or to a stake driven into the ground for that purpose. This 
 operation is to be performed in the spring, and in the fall of the 
 year it -will have become a young vine, with a good root to it. 
 
 2. Cuttings. — Vines are also propagated by cuttings, which 
 should be taken for this purpose before the middle of February, 
 and should be shoots of the last summer, with an inch or two of 
 the last year's wood at the bottom of them, though this is not in- 
 dispensable ; but the cuttings must have four or five buds or joints. 
 The ground to receive the cuttings must be made rich and fine, 
 
128 
 
 ling deep, and well prepared. Then each cutting is to be put in 
 with a setting-stick, leaving only two buds or joints above the 
 ground ; the cutting must be planted firmly in the ground. 
 
 Another Method of Propagating by Cuttings. — There if? 
 another method of propagating by cuttings, but it is not so com- 
 monly adopted. At about the same time you would take a cut- 
 ting in tlie manner last directed, take a bud 'of the last year's 
 wood, cutting all the wood away, except about half an inch 
 above and as much below the bud ; shave off the bark and a little 
 way into the wood at the back of the bud of this inch-long cut- 
 ting ; then buiy it two inches deep in a pot of good earth, taking 
 care to keep the bud in an upright position ; you need not hesitate 
 to cover the bud over, as it will shoot through the mould, and the-i 
 place where you scraped off the bark will send out vigorous 
 roots, and thus produce a healthy young vine, to be managed in 
 the manner directed for cuttings above. 
 
 Pruning. — Vines may be pruned in the fall of the year, 
 when the sap is completely down, but not left unpruned beyond 
 February, or the sap will have begun to rise. When you com- 
 mence pruning, always make choice of the strongest and longest 
 shoots, leaving them as long as you find the eyes good and ■ 
 plump, and the wood sound ; the shoots that have borne fruit " 
 should be cut out the following year, except when you want to 
 fill the wall, and the shoots are very strong ; never leave any 
 but fine, strong wood, always cutting at the second, third, or 
 fourth eye, rubbing the lowest bud off, and that which comes out 
 of the joint between the new and last year's wood ; always leave 
 two or three of the strongest shoots for next year's bearing- 
 wood, and never top them. When vines by accident have been 
 pruned too late, the ends of the vines can be coated over with 
 white lead. 
 
 Summer Pruning. — Vines require summer as well as winter 
 pruning, and by the latter end of May those against walls should 
 be looked over, as by this time, in a forward season, numerous 
 spring shoots will be advancing, and the useless ones sliould be 
 removed, as the small shoots from the old wood seldom produce 
 grapes, and should therefore be rubbed off, except in places 
 where a supply of new wood is required. Rut leave, at this 
 time, all the shoots which spring from the last year's wood ; and 
 if two shoots arise on one joint, rub off clean, with the finger, the 
 smaller of the two. Train the remaining shoots, as they attain 
 length, close to the wall, regularly, so that they and the fruit may 
 enjoy both sun and air. 
 
August Pruning. — In August it is requisite to look over the 
 vines again, and clear them from useless branches. Examine, 
 also, all the bearing and other proper shoots, and see that they 
 are well fastened to the wall. This is the season to top the 
 shoots that have fruit on them, and others of too great growth. 
 
 Varieties. — The European varieties do not succeed well in 
 this country, unless in the warm, dry atmosphere of cities. For 
 general cultivation hi our country, we recommend the following 
 as worthy the attention of the gardener. 
 
 1. Elsinhurgh. — This is a good table grape, tender and sweet, 
 bluish color, large bunches ; hardy, and a moderate bearer. 
 Much cultivated in the Middle States. 
 
 2. Catawba. — This is one of the best grapes for the table, 
 and for wine, in the Middle States and the West. It is hardy, 
 vigorous, and productive. Native of Virginia. 
 
 3. Isabella. — This, also, is one of the best grapes known, 
 though it is apt to fail of its crop in the Eastern States. It is 
 hardy, vigorous, and a great bearer, often yielding ten bushels to 
 a vine. Ripens in New England the last of September. 
 
 1^^ There are many other varieties, both foreign and native, 
 which are good vines, but we think the list we have given far 
 best for garden culture, especially in a Northern climate. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE APIARIAN'S GUIDE: 
 
 OR PRACTICAL DETAILS ON THE EASY AND PROFITABLE MANAGE- 
 MENT OF BEES. 
 
 1. The Queen Bee. — The queen bee may be known by her 
 having a longer body than the other bees, which is of a blackish 
 color above, and yellowish beneath. There is never but one of 
 these bees allowed in the hive, and she is sovereign of all the 
 rest ; the rest are devoted to her protection and comfort. The 
 queen bee begins to deposit her eggs when five days- old, and 
 lays till late in the fell nearly two hundred eggs a day. 
 
 2. The Drone. — These bees are larger than the others, and 
 have no sting. They are the males of the hive, and remain in 
 
130 
 
 idleness about the hive till August, when they are destroyed or 
 driven away by the working bees. 
 
 3. The Working Bee. — This is the smallest, but the most in- 
 teresting of the bees. It collects the honey and pollen, forms 
 the cells, cleans the hive, takes care of the queen, expels tlie 
 drones, &c. They are of no sex. 
 
 4. Situation of the Hive, cf-c. — The best aspect for the hive 
 is southwesterly, though it may be varied to meet the changing 
 seasons. The soil about the hive should be dry and sandy. Let 
 the hive slope a little towards the front, so as to let off the rain ; 
 it should also be sheltered on the back and east side. Water 
 should be set near the hive in very shallow pans, and be changed 
 every day ; put some pebble-stones in the pans for the bees to 
 rest on. The hive should not be exposed to the hot sun, as it 
 will melt and waste the honey, and lead to premature swarming. 
 Hives should not be set too near each other, as the bees are 
 apt to quarrel. 
 
 5. Spring Stock. — The spring is considered the best season 
 for obtaining stock, though it is rather more difficult to ascertain 
 the exact condition of the stock than in the fall. The purchaser 
 should examine their habits for industry before buying, and if 
 they are obtained before swarming it will be better. 
 
 6. Fall Stock. — Before purchasing, observe the habits of the 
 bees as above, and also be sure that the drones have been ex- 
 pelled. See that the hive is new and clean, and the comb clear 
 and white. 
 
 7. To ohtain Good Hives. — Be sure and obtain the first 
 swarm, as they are by far the best. The summer is a poor time 
 to purchase bees, on account of the heat, which softens the wax, 
 &;c. When a swarm is removed in the working season, it should 
 be done in the night, and the bees kept in a day. 
 
 8. Time of Sivarming. — If the parent stock is sufficiently 
 strong in numbers, they may be allov/ed to swarm in April or 
 May ; otherwise, it will prove injurious to those who go, as well 
 as to those who remain. 
 
 9. Signs of Swarming. — When bens design to swarm, they 
 generally hang about the hive, often forming a heavy cluster, 
 and hang down a foot or more from the mouth of the hive or 
 alighting-board ; they neglect their work, and their hum is 
 hushed. The old queen leads off the first swarm. 
 
 10. To prevent Sivarming. — They may be showered with a 
 ^1> oz. syringe with vagina tube; they dread the water, and will 
 
131 
 
 not go forth in showery weather. After they have left tlie I'ivc, 
 tliey may be brought down by throwing sand in the air, or firing 
 a giui. A hive properly coated with honey should be left near, 
 as they will often take to it. 
 
 11." To save a Swarm that has settled. — If they alight on a 
 tree, hold a hive under them and tap on the branch, and they 
 will drop into it ; then syringe them with ale and molasses, or 
 honey, and keep liiem shut in for twenty-four hours. Wherever 
 they alight, pursue rhe same plan. 
 
 12. Food for Bees. — The following will bo found to be a 
 very suitable food for bees in times of necessity : Boil to a sirup 
 1^ lb. of sugar in a quart of ale; skim as it boils, and add 
 about a teaspoonful of salt to a quart. Honey is best, when 
 you have it ; avoid the necessiiy of feeding if possible. 
 
 13. Wi/iter Management. — See in the fall that they have 
 plenty of food ; each hive should have left in it twenty-five 
 pounds, at least, of clear honey. The weight of the hives 
 should ajvv'ays be marked. See that they are sufficiently strong 
 in numbers ; if not, unite the weak stocks so as to form strong 
 ones. 
 
 14. Closing the Hu'e, and Coverinf^. — As the cold weather 
 approaches, the mouth of the hive should be gradually closed 
 down, so as only to admit one bee at a time, and about the last of 
 November the hive should be almost entirely closed. The hives 
 should be carefulFy covered up with matting, so as to keep them 
 from the frost and rains. They may be opened, and the cover- 
 ings removed, early in March. 
 
 15. To make the Wax. — Put the combs into a clean kettle, 
 with as nmch soft water as they will float in. Hang it over the 
 fire, and stir till the combs become liquid ; then strain through a 
 canvas bag into a tub of cold water ; after the water has run 
 through, press the bag till you get all the wax through. 
 
 16. Hives —There are a great variety of hives in use, many 
 of them of about equal value. We have used the common box 
 hive, with drawers, and it answers an excellent purpose. They 
 are easily made, and easily managed. 
 
132 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE BIRD-FAXCIER'S COMPAXIOX: 
 
 WITH PLAIN AND SIMPLE Dir.r.CTiONS FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF 
 CANARIES, NATIVE AND EXOTIC SONGSTERS. 
 
 The Canary-Bird. — The Canary excels all other birds in its 
 good qualities ; particularly, first, in the sweetness and melody 
 of its song, wliich lasts most of the year. Second, by its rich 
 and beautiful plumage, of seven or eight colors, and from 
 which the varieties are named. Third, by its docility, and 
 ability to learn many amusing little tricks. It will also learn 
 airs by means of a Jlageolct., or hird-organ^ and preserve the 
 time as correcdy as a skilful musician. 
 
 Pairing Canaries. — The time of pairing begins about the 
 latter part of March. Select the cock and hen, and put them to- 
 gether in a small cage ; if they quarrel at first, no matter, they 
 will soon match. While they are pairing, feed them with boiled 
 egg, grated line, with bread crumbs and a little maw-seed. 
 7'hey will pair in ten days. They should havo a little lettuce- 
 seed while breeding. 
 
 SUuaiion of the Breeding-Cage. — This is a particular point, 
 in order to insure success in breeding. If the cage is hung in a 
 dark room, where the sun shines but little, the young birds will 
 be weakly, dull, and small. If yv)u wish good birds, set the 
 cage in a room which enjoys the morning sun, and in which it 
 shines the best part of the forenoon. 
 
 Nests, Boxes, Sf'c. — Nothing is so good for nests as a little 
 fine hay and cow's hair. The best nest-boxes are those made of 
 \vicker or wooden sides, with wire bottoms, so that the dust can 
 fall through. 
 
 Period of Sitting. — The Canary sits fourteen days. Two 
 days before they hatch, clean the perch, fill the seed-box and 
 water-fountain, so that they may not be disturbed for several 
 days afterwards. 
 
 Bathing- Pans. — They should have clean water, in warm 
 weather, once a day, to bathe and wash in, which greatly re- 
 freshes them. 
 
 To distinguish the Male from the Female. — The cock has a 
 
133 
 
 streak of bright yellow over the eyes and under the throat ; his 
 liead is wider and longer than the hen's ; he is much higher col- 
 ored, and his feet are larger. Another way to distinguish the 
 male is, that he often begins to warhle and peck at a month 
 old. Fie is quicker, more taper and sprightly, than the hen. 
 
 Moulting^ or Casting their Feathers. — This is a dangerous 
 period ; it attacks young birds when about six weeks old, and 
 lasts two months. At this time they require nourishing food, and 
 warmth; tliey are very dull and melancholy, and lose their 
 song. Biscuit, soaked in sheriy wine, is good to feed with; 
 also some refined liquorice in their water; a few grits make 
 them cast their feathers. 
 
 Red Mites. — To avoid these, clean the cage three times a 
 week, if needful. 
 
 Swelling of the Stomach. — To prevent this, keep a rusty 
 nail in the water, or give them a little lettuce-seed ; this will 
 generally give relief. 
 
 Egg-hound. — When they become egg-bound, rub gently on 
 the lower' part of the body the oil of sweet almonds. 
 
 American Yellow-Bird. — This bird is very common in the 
 Middle States, and partakes much of the nature of the Canary. 
 If placed near a Canary, it w*ill acquire many of its notes. 
 It should be an old, established singing Canary, otherwise he 
 will take the yellow-bird's song to the detriment of his own. 
 They should be fed with Canary and hemp-seed ; two thirds of 
 the former. A leaf of lettuce, cabbage, or a piece of apple, is 
 of service. The male bird is of a brilliant chrome-yellow, with 
 the crown of the head, wings, and tail glossy black, the two 
 latter tinged with white. The female is of a dark color. 
 
 Cardinal Grosbeak. — This is a magnificent bird, celebrated 
 for the splendor of its colors and the richness of its tone. It 
 abounds in the Middle and Southern States. It possesses consid- 
 erable powers of mimicking, and is a long-lived bird. 
 
 American Mocking-Bikd. — This is the " bird of many 
 voices,'''' the '•'•nightingale of Anierica,'''' and is justly valued for 
 its vocal powers. His powers of mimicry are immense, imitat- 
 ing at pleasure the scream of the eagle, the warble of the blue- 
 bird, the moan of the turtle-dove, the whistle of the red-bird, the 
 scolding of the wren, the cry of the Katy-did, the shrill Canary, 
 the quarrelling of cats, the cackling of hens, or a watchman's 
 rattle. The treatment of the mocking-bird is not diflTicult ; feed 
 them regularly eveiy morning with Indian meal mixed with 
 12 
 
KM 
 
 milk ; give this as a standard food, but vary the diet according to 
 the season. 
 
 They begin moulting early in August, and continue till No- 
 vember, during which time they should receive extra care. 
 
 The male is distinguished by a regular line of white feathers 
 in the wing, which, in a fine bird, forms a regular curve from the 
 shoulder to the tip of the wing. 
 
 The Skylark. — This beautiful songster is a native of Eu- 
 rope. The male is scarcely distinguishable. They subsist upon 
 seed. In a wild state they give tiieir song as they rise almost 
 perpendicularly in the air, until lost from sight in the blue vaults 
 above. They do not breed in confinement. 
 
 Purple Finch, or Linnet. — This is a native bird, and much 
 superior to the Canary as a songster. Tliey winter South, but 
 return North about the ist of May to breed. They fly in vast 
 flocks, and are easily taken in trap-cages. They soon become 
 tame, but often refuse to sing in confinement. They are to be 
 treated the same as the Canary. 
 
 American Robin, — This is a favorite native bird, esteemed 
 for its richness of song and delicacy of taste. It is so well 
 known as not to require description ; should be treated the same 
 as the mocking-bird. This bird is easily trained to follow its own- 
 er, and if the cage is lefr open, it will go and come at pleasure. 
 
 English Thrush. — This is a delightful songster, and is to be 
 treated precisely as the robin and mocking-bird. They are read- 
 ily kept in confinement. 
 
 Keed-Bird, or Bob-o'-link. — This is a native bird, and a 
 favorite with all, especially the whistling plough-boy and the 
 sturdy farmer. They arrive in the Middle Slates early in May, 
 and proceed North to breed. They ai'C easily taken in trap- 
 cages, and will sing well in confinement. Should be treated the 
 same as the linnet. 
 
 Hed-Wing, or Sv/amp Blackbird. — A fellow-wanderer with 
 the preceding, and quite as noisy a songster ; readily tamed, and 
 may be taught to repeat words like a parrot, with careful in- 
 struction. Precisely the same treatment as th.e foregoing, with 
 the exception of a little green corn in season. They become 
 very amusing and docile in confinement. 
 
135 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 FAMILY MEDICINE, 
 
 BY MEANS OF WHICH EVERY PERSON CAN DOCTOR HIMSELF IN 
 ALL KINDS OF SICKNESS, IN A SIMPLE AND SAFE MANNER. 
 
 It is also the Sailor and Emigrant's Guide, hoth at Sea, and 
 in Travels abroad. 
 
 The Use of the Pulse. — The pulso is the thermometer of the 
 body, determming its state of health. In a state of good health, 
 the pulsations are about seventy to a minute. In children it is 
 more rapid ; in old persons more slow. 
 
 The FIRST THING TO BE DONE IN SiCKNESS IS TO EXAMINE 
 
 THE Pulse. 
 
 1. If the pulse is small and feeble, and the tongue dark, with a 
 general languor, give nourishing food, wine, tonics, &c. 
 r 2. If the pulse is quick, hard, full, and strong, foul tongue, 
 hot skin, headache, &c., give physic, or an emetic, and sweat 
 according to circumstances. 
 
 ii Class I. Digestive Organs. 
 
 The mouth, stomach, liver, intestines, and kidneys are all 
 concerned in the process of digestion. 
 
 ^p^ Our plan is to enumerate each form of disease in the sev- 
 eral classes, and prescribe such simple remedies as are always 
 at hand in every family. 
 
 Indigestion. — Keep the bowels open with castor-oil, or rhu- 
 barb. If attended with severe pain, apply a strong mustard 
 poultice. 
 
 Costiveness. — If essential, take a dose of rhubarb twice a 
 week. Two handfuls a day of wheat-bran, stirred into a bowl 
 of hot water, and eaten, is a certain remedy in most cases. 
 
 Bad Appetite. — First clear the stomach by a dose of physic. 
 Then prepare a J oz. quassia, J oz. gentian, by steeping till the 
 strength is out in a pint of water ; strain, and add a pint of good 
 brandy, with sugar. Dose, half a wine-glass before breakfast 
 and dinner. 
 
136 
 
 I 
 
 Heartburn. — The common remedies are pearlash or soda, ' 
 half a teaspoonful dissolved in water ; this will give relief. But 
 a more simple remedy is to eat a small piece of a raw carrot ; it 
 will give certain relief. Don't laugh at its simplicity, but try it.' '^ 
 
 Wind. — Drink hot red-pepper tea, or peppermint-water. 
 20 drops of vitriol in a glass of water, twice a day, will give 
 permanent relief. 
 
 Cholic. — C4ive a dose of physic, soak the feet in hot water, 
 apply mustard poultices to the bowels, give an injection, &c. 
 Painters should eat mustard with their food to prevent the cholic. 
 
 DiarrhcEa. — Live a few days upon a light, dry diet, with mod- 
 erate exercise. Take pepper-tea, and use a little rhubarb as an 
 aperient medicine. 
 
 Dysentery. — Take 3 J oz. gum Arabic, and dissolve it in a 
 pint of best brandy ; then add loaf-sugar, and half a pint of 
 water. Dose, a table-spoonful live or six times a day. Use also, 
 once in a day or two, a little tincture of rhubarb. 
 
 Cholera. — In the first attack prepare some warm drink, — 
 brandy and water is the best in this case, — and drink it, and at 
 the same time wrap up the whole body in warm flannel. Rub 
 the arms and legs briskly ; while doing this, send also for a good _ 
 doctor. 
 
 Nettie-Rash. — Give a dose of castor-oil, and drink freely of 
 herb or saflVon tea to kcej) up perspiration. 
 
 Toothache. — Wet a piece of cotton with the oil of tar and 
 clove. It will give almost immediate relief. 
 
 Worms. — For a child six years old, give 12 or 15 drops of 
 spirits of turpentine in some warm catnip tea, in the form of an 
 injection. Then give, in about twelve hours after, a dose of 
 pink and senna. 
 
 Jaundice. — Take blue flagroot J oz. ; yellow dock | oz., 
 mandrake \ oz., and steep in a pint of water ; strain, and add 
 one pint of gin, and sugar to taste. Dose, half a wineglass twice 
 a day. Almost certain. 
 
 Gravel. — Use hot fomentations, warm bath, and drink freely 
 of cleavers tea, or a tea of juniper-berries. 
 
 Piles. — Keep the bowels open, and anoint the external parts 
 with cod-liver oil. A new, but excellent remedy. 
 
 Fistula. — Keep the bowels open, and the ulcer clean. Use 
 cod-liver oil as an ointment. 
 
137 
 
 Class 11. Organs of Breathing. 
 
 Tlie organs of breathing include the limgs^ the chesty the nos- 
 trih^ and windpipe. 
 
 Cold in the Head. — Keep the bowels open ; soak the feet in 
 hot water, and drink herb tea. 
 
 Cough. — Drink freely of life-everlasting tea, or, if it is ob- 
 stinate, take 1 oz. sirup squills, and 1 oz. of paregoric. Take 
 an occasional spoonful. 
 
 Loss of Voice. — Apply flannels, wrung out in hot water, and 
 drink freely of hot composition tea. 
 
 Whooping- Cough. — Keep the bowels open, and let the child 
 drink freely o^ Jlax-seed tea. If needful, poultice the chest with 
 mustard poultice. 
 
 Winte?" Cough. — Take 1 oz. powdered liquorice, 1 gill mo- 
 lasses, 1 gill rum ; add alum the size of a walnut. Dose, spoon- 
 ful five or six times a day. 
 
 Croup. — Apply flannels, wrung out in hot water, over the 
 neck ; onion poultices on the chest and feet ; give an emetic, 
 and send for the doctor. 
 
 Asthma. — Soak brown paper in a strong solution of saltpetre ; 
 let it dry, and set it on fire, so that the smoke may be inhaled by 
 the patient. 
 
 Consumption of the Lungs. — There is no remedy so good as 
 cod-liver oil ; some combine it with phosphate of lime. Can be 
 had of any apothecary. 
 
 Class III. The Blood, or Organs of Circulation. 
 
 - The organs of circulation include the veins and arteries, the 
 heart, the course of the blood, and the source of animal heat. 
 
 Fevers. — Nearly all fevers require about the same treatment. 
 First, cleanse the stomach and bowels, and afterwards keep 
 up a moderate perspiration all over the body, by drinking herb 
 tea. 
 
 Ague. — Give a litde Epsom salts every other day, and drink 
 freely of herb tea. When the fever is run down, give tonic 
 medicines. 
 
 Typhus Fever. — Pursue the same course as in ague. You 
 may give yeast in this disease with good success. A physician 
 should always be called in. 
 
 Scarlet Fever. — In the first stages give a dose of physic, and 
 12 * 
 
138 
 
 put the patient to bed in a quiet room. Keep up a perspiration 
 upon the surface of the body. Very light diet. 
 
 Small- Pox. — In the distinct form, give an emetic, followed 
 by a dose of castor-oil ; then use sweatitig remedies, and let the 
 patient have plenty of fresh air. Sponge the body with warm or 
 cool water. 
 
 Erysipelas. — Be sure and keep the bowels open with Epsom 
 salts ; then create a perspiration by warm teas ; apply a mustard 
 poultice above the seat of the disease, and dust arrowroot or flour 
 on the sores. 
 
 Measles. — Keep the bowels open with castor-oil ; drink herb 
 tea ; flax-seed tea for the cough, and saffron tea to keep out the 
 humor. 
 
 Injluenza. — Take a dose of physic, drink hot herb tea, soak 
 the feet in hot water, and go to bed for a sweat. 
 
 Chicken-Pox. — Take a dose of castor-oil, and drink freely of 
 safli'on tea, and keep indoors. 
 
 Itch. — Take sulphur and molasses two or three times ; also 
 anoint the whole body with melted sulphur before a hot fire. 
 This is not so pleasant, but more certain than any other remedy. 
 
 Ring-worm., Shingles, Sf'c. — The ring-worm is easily cured 
 by wetting it a few times in very strong tobacco-spittle, and letting 
 it dry in. For the shingles, take Epsom sa,lts and warm teas, to 
 keep out the eruption. 
 
 Scald Head. — Kemove the loose, dry scabs, and wash the 
 head with a decoction of tobacco. Give physic and safli'on tea. 
 
 Scurvy. — This disease, incident to sailors, must be mainly 
 cured by proper diet, exercise, and a cheerful mind. Keep 
 clean. Use, if possible, such articles as fresh vegetables, or- 
 anges, lemons, vinegar, cider, &c. Harden the gums by a lit- 
 tle vitriol-water. 
 
 Putrid Sore Throat. — Keep the bowels open, and the body 
 in a perspiring condition. Keep the throat bandaged with flannels 
 wet in hot-drops ; above all, gargle the throat often with the fol- 
 lowing : J cup of vinegar, ^ cup of water, spoonful table-salt, 
 and J teaspoonful of best Cayenne. This is the course for all 
 forms gf sore throat. 
 
 Pleurisy. — In this dangerous disease, go immediately to bed 
 and take a sweat; put a mustard poultice over the seat of the 
 pain ; live on gruel a few days, till its severity is over ; then 
 wear a large pitch-plaster over the spot, to protec^t it from cold. 
 
 Injlammation of the Lungs. — Pursue a course similar to 
 
139 
 
 treatment for pleurisy. You must keep the bowels open, and, if 
 very severe, apply several leeches. 
 
 Tnflommation of the Stomach. — Xo l>c treated nearly the same 
 as inflammation of ♦lie limgs. The liquids taken nuist be very 
 miki, and in small quantity. 
 
 Injiammation of the Liver. — Take a good smart dose of salts 
 and senna, and apply a strong mustard plaster over the seat of 
 the pain. A physician should be called. 
 
 Inf animation of the Bowels. — Apply hot fomentations of 
 hops to the bowels, and take a dose of castor-oil. It is a danger- 
 ous disease, and medical help should be obtained. 
 
 lufammation of the Urinary Organs. — Take physic, abstain 
 from food, and a})ply hot fomentations of hops over the seat of 
 the pain. 
 
 Rheumatism. — Take the tincture of guaiacum in teaspoonful 
 doses, five or six times a day. A first-rate remedy. 
 
 Gout. — In ordinary cases take physic often, and reduce the 
 diet. In old people the treatment should be more tonic and 
 generous. 
 
 Scrofula. — Cod-liver oil is a good remedy; also a prepara- 
 tion of dock, mandrake, cohosh, and blue-flag, equal parts, pre- 
 pared in gin. 
 
 Droj)sy. — Take plenty of exercise, and frequent doses of rhu- 
 barb ; drink freely of mountain-cranberry tea ; drachm doses of 
 cream of tartar every three hours. This is an excellent remedy. 
 
 Water in the Chest. — Treatment the same as for dropsy, as it 
 is a species of that disease. 
 
 Water in the Head. — Apply blisters to the back of tlie head, 
 and give occasional doses of rhubarb. Seldom cured. 
 
 Class IV. Diseases of the Brain and Nerves. 
 
 Tic- Douloureux. — Steam the face with a bag of hops, wrung 
 out in hot vinegar. 
 
 Nervous Headache. — Soak the feet in warm water, and apply 
 cold bandages to the head. 
 
 Sick Headache. — Take a dose of senna and salts ; soak the 
 feet in warm water, and abstain some days from food. 
 
 Giddiness of the Head. — Equalize the circulation by warm 
 herb tea, soaking the feet in warm water, and, if needful, apply a 
 few lcech<?s to the back of tlie head. 
 
 Injiammation of the Brain. — This disease requires the best 
 of medical skill. Do not tamper with it an hour. 
 
110 
 
 Lockjnin. — Powerful sweating is the most reliable remedy in 
 this disorder. Bathe llie jaws also wiili Lur})eiilir.e. 
 
 Hysteric Fits. — During ilio fh, spriiiklo the face with cold 
 water or vinegar. Apply pungents to the i^c, and warm fric- 
 tion to the body. 
 
 Convulsive Fits in Children. — Adopt the same means as in 
 hysteric fits. The body may be waslied all over with hot water. 
 
 Fainting. — Pursue the course above recommended for fits, 
 only varynig according to circumstances. 
 
 Apo'plexy. -^-Ijoo^en the neckcloth, and give fresh air. Re- 
 store the balance of the body by v/arm applications, and putting 
 the feet into very warm water. Get a doctor, and bleed from 
 the head. 
 
 Class V. 
 Common Accidents, and how to treat them. 
 
 [Hj* Where Persons seem to he dead. 
 
 Browning. — Strive to inflate the lungs by means of a pair of 
 bellows ; use injections of warm water, and the warm bath ; 
 camphor as a pungent. 
 
 Hanging. — Make use of the same means as in drowning ; in 
 both cases it will be well to take a few ounces of blood. 
 
 Suffocation. — Avoid excitement; take good exercise, and use 
 vegetable diet, so as to keep the bowels open. 
 
 Choking. — In these accidents use such artificial means as 
 the case demands. Tickle the throat so as to cause vomiting. 
 
 Exposure to Cold. — Produce a glow by rubbing the body, 
 and bring the sufferer to the fire graduall)'. 
 
 Stroke of Lightning. — Use the warm bath and friction ; keep 
 tlie patient quiet, and take a few ounces of blood. 
 
 Drunkenness. — " Touch not, taste not, handle not." 
 
 Accidents by Poisoning. 
 
 1. Those Poisons which produce Mortification. 
 
 Alkaline Poisons. — Give vinegar, and other vegetable acids, 
 to neutralize the poison. 
 
 Verdigris.^ Lunar Caustic, and Corrosive Si- limate. — Give 
 the whhe of an egg in water, every two minutes, to produce 
 vomiting and to absorb the poison ; or milk in large quantities 
 may be drunk, or linseed tea, or sugar and water. 
 
 Gamboge^ Crotou-Oil^ and Canlharidcs. — Drink sugar and 
 water, milk, or linseed tea very iVecly. 
 
141 
 
 2. Poisons acting through the Blood. 
 
 These poisons" include arsenic, Prussic acid, opium, henbane, 
 hemlock, and most vegetable poisons. 
 
 Arsenic. — The same as for gamboge, &c. Lime-water, or 
 chalk and water, if the poison swallowed was liquid. 
 
 Prussic Acid. — Give warm, stimulating drinks, to rouse the 
 system. Give also a powerful emetic. 
 
 Hemlock., Laudanum^ Nightshade., arid other Vegetable Poi- 
 sons. — Give an emetic, and use every effort to rouse up the sys- 
 tem by hot baths, stimuhint drinks, &c., so that an emetic will 
 take hold. Give no acids so long as any poison remains. 
 
 3. Poisons which act upon the Nerves and Brain. 
 
 Among this class of poisons may be named tobacco., alcohol., 
 Croton-oil., lead., oil of almonds., c^-c. 
 The remedies are so simple that they need not be pointed out. 
 
 AccicSeiits foy IssjMries to tlie Skm. 
 
 These accidents include the following : — 
 
 Burns, scalds, grazed or ruflied skin, galling, excoriation, and 
 chafing ; blows, bruises, and contusions ; parts frost-bitten ; cuts 
 and wounds ; chilblains and kibes. 
 
 These accidents are cured by poultices, ointments, &;c. Cod- 
 liver oil is of itself the very best ointment. It can be mixed 
 with tallow for convenience. 
 
 Accideiilal Injuries reSafan^ to tSic Liiinbs, Cyc, and 
 
 Ear. 
 
 Sprains. — Sj)rains are most common in the ankle and the 
 wrist, the soft parts around the joints being stretched, and sinews 
 sometimes more or less torn. 
 
 Treatment. — In a recent sprain, inflammation may be partly 
 prevented by a lotion composed of one part of alcohol, one of 
 laudanum, and three parts of cold water. In some cases it will 
 be proper to apply leeches. 'Ilie bowels should be kept open 
 with Epsom salts. 
 
 Limbs jmt out of Joint, or Dislocated. — Treatment. — The 
 limb must be forcibly pulled to counteract the drawing of the 
 muscles ; the extending force is to be gradually increased, and is 
 to be applied at first in the direction in which the bone may be 
 displaced ; but by degrees it is to be brought to a Uiie [jarallel 
 
H2 
 
 with the centre axis of the socket. At the same time, some one 
 te to endeavor to raise the head of the bone over the edge of the 
 cavity. 
 
 Broken Bones. — If a. person be found lying on the ground 
 speechless, do not hastily endeavor to raise him, but hrst search 
 whether any of the limbs are broken, lest in raising him the in- 
 jury be increased by tlie ends of the broken bones being forced 
 through the flesh and skin. If d)e thigh or leg be broken, at- 
 tempt not to raise him till some mode has been provided of con- 
 veying him to his bed, remembering that, being laid on a door or 
 shutter, and thus conveyed by two or four men, he will suffer 
 much less injury than if conveyed in any kind of carriage. If 
 the arm be broken in the upj)er j)art, leT it be supported in a 
 sling, with the palm of the hand turned to the body. If the per- 
 son continues senseless, the head has probably received some 
 serious injury, demanding great care in his removal, and the im- 
 mediate attention of some experienced surgeon. 
 
 If after a blow, by a fall or othorunse, on the side, consider- 
 able pain is felt, and the breathing rendered difficult, it is almost 
 certain one or more of the ribs is broken. Free bleeding and 
 absolute rest will be demanded in this case, which very frequent- 
 ly terminates fatally ft'om want of being treated -from the first 
 with that decided firmness it demands. 
 
 Motes, Sand, and other Suhstancer,, in the Ei/es. — The sub- 
 gtonce may either lie loose on the surface, or, having penetrated 
 tlie outer coat, may there remain fixed. In the former case it is 
 easily removed by means of a camel-hair pencil dipped in oil, 
 or, what is better, a piece of paper rolled into tlie size of a quill 
 and softened in the mouth. When the substance is fixed in the 
 coats of the eye, then a surgical operation may be necessary to 
 remove it. 
 
 Peas, Insects, and other Suhstances in the Ear. — The open- 
 ing into the outer ear, as far as the drum, is only about half an 
 inch, and is defended by a sort of down, as well as a sort of wax. 
 Peas, bits of slate-pencil among boys at school, and other things, 
 sometimes get into the ear, and give no little uneasiness. They 
 may be extracted by means of a small pair of forceps, having 
 previously injected some of the oil of almonds. Occasionally, 
 ants and caterpillars have found their way in, and even insects 
 have been known to deposit their eggs there. We sometimes 
 succeed in removing them by introducing into the ear a piece of 
 lint dipped in honey. Camphorated oil may also be tried* 
 
113 
 
 Cramp in Sivimfning. — If a person is nttacked with cramp 
 .while swimming, he should suddenly dart, the limb out with great 
 force ; should both legs be affected at the same instant, his only 
 chance is to throw himself upon his back, and to make a similar 
 effort with both at once. 
 
 Bleeding at Ike Lungs. — A teaspoonful of dry salt, given at 
 short intervals, will stop profuse bleeding at the lungs. The 
 herb called golden rod., dried and made into tea, will have the 
 same effect. A tumblerful should be taken every half-hour. 
 This remedy has been found very efficacious. 
 
 When struck by Lightning. — Place the person who has been 
 struck in an erect posture, and dash a pail or two of cold water 
 over his head. Then rub the body till it is thoroughly dry ; af- 
 ter which, apply strong mustard poultices to the stomach. If 
 the body is cold, omit the water, and seek to restore its natural 
 temperature by friction and wai'm applications. 
 
 Fainting Fit. — Loosen the clothes of the person who has 
 fainted, place him in 'the fresh air, and sprinkle cold water upon 
 the face. A person in a fainting fit should always be laid upon 
 his back, .with the head on a level whh the feet. Chafe the 
 palms of the hands and temples with the hand, and apply harts- 
 horn to the nostrils. , 
 
 SECTION IL 
 
 I'HE SICK MAN'S DOCTOR t 
 
 OR, MEDICATED FLANNEL. 
 
 This extraordinary method of curing disease was kept for many 
 years a profound secret., by an eminent physician of Mas- 
 sachusetts., who., in his old age., sold out the right to a loorthy 
 lady in practice for Five Hi^ndred Dollars. VJe now 
 offer it to you for Fifty Cents ! ! 
 
 Nearly all kinds of disease are occasioned by cold iiuthe ^ys- 
 tem. It is so in inflammations, fevers, diseases of the bowels, 
 lungs, head, &c. Almost every form of acute disease can be 
 easily cured by the saleratus sweat and medicated fiannel. 
 Every family has the means at hand, and can dispense v/ith 
 drugs and doctors, for it has saved many lives when physiciana 
 have despaired. 
 
144 
 
 Saleratus Sivcat. — First put the patient in bed, then wash 
 him all over with a large spoonful ot' saleratus added to a half- 
 pint of soft water, as hot as he can bear it ; repeat it three or four 
 times, and leave as much water on the body as you can with the 
 saturated cloth. During this operation of washing, drink freely 
 of pennyroyal or other warm herb tea. Then cover the patient 
 well with flannels in bed, and let him sleep an hour or two, ac- 
 cording to his strength ; then wipe him off hard with a crash 
 towel, and finally wash off and wipe dry with new rum. Have 
 ready some clean clothes to change. Let the sick person enjoy 
 quiet sleep.. 
 
 If this course should be resorted to in all cases of sudden 
 colds, more than two thirds of the fevers which now occur, and 
 often result in death, would be prevented. In settled fever, the 
 patient should be washed daily with weak saleratus-water. This 
 sweat acts in harmony with nature, and proves her greatest help. 
 
 Medicated Flannel. — One of the best remedies for curing 
 disease by external application is the medicated flannel. In all 
 cases of pain in the stomach, back, side, and shoulders, or 
 cramp, colic, spasms, rheumatism, spinal diseases, dysentery, 
 cholera-morbus, &c., there is nothing in comparison with it. No 
 family can aftbrd to do without the knowledge of its use, as it 
 will save them a great amount of suffering and expense. Let 
 not its simplicity be despised, as it may save your life when other 
 remedies will not avail. 
 
 Mode of Preparing the Flannel. — Split of fresh box-raisins 
 enough to cover over the flannel ; next cover over a layer of 
 ground allspice, then ef powdered camphor, ground cloves, and 
 cinnamon, with a little Cayenne pepper ; where the pain is very 
 severe, sprinkle over some fine opium. Place the whole be- 
 tween a double flannel, and quilt it all over. The size of the 
 flannel should be according to the part diseased. 
 
 Directions for Using the Flannel. — Let the patient first take 
 a saleratus sweat, according "to directions. To prepare the part 
 aflected for applying the flannel, first rub it all over smartly with 
 the rheumatic oil. The oil, being quite powerful, should be 
 used sparingly. Then rub again in the same manner with the 
 soothing lotion. Dampen the flannel all over its surface with 
 the lotion, before applying h. After wearing the flannel two 
 days, wet it again with the lotion, and sprinkle on a little of the 
 powder with which the flannel is medicated, in order to keep up 
 an irritalion 
 
145 
 
 Pursue this course for a week or two in clironic cases, and it 
 will bring out a humor, which will give immediate relief. In se- 
 vere and sudden cases use the oil more freely, and wet the flan- 
 nel once in-fifteen mi»utes with the lotion till relief is obtained. 
 
 Receipts for Making the Oil and Lotion. — These prepara- 
 tions should be made and kept on hand by every family. The 
 expense is but little, and in sudden cases the patient may die be- 
 fore they can be obtained ; and besides, age improves their qual- 
 ity, provided they are kgipt from the air by beings tightly corked 
 in bottles. 
 
 Rheumatic Oil. — This is made by taking two ounces of 
 sweet oil, and one of cajeput, and shaking them well together. 
 
 Soothing Lotion. — Two quarts of alcohol, six ounces fine 
 Castile soap, one ounce of camphor, one ounce of laudanum, one 
 ounce of rosemary. 
 
 Remark. — In all cases of sudden disease, the state of the 
 bowels is to be considered. It is most generally safe to adminis- 
 ter a dose of salts and senna, castor-oU, or rhubarb. 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 RULES AND SUGGESTIONS BY VTHICH ANY PERSON OP 
 GOOD NATURAL. CONSTITUTION MAY LIVE IN GOOD 
 HEALTH A HUNDRED YEARS. 
 
 What is Good Health ? — We usually consider the body in 
 good- health when it performs all its bodily functions, voluntary 
 and involuntar}'-, with ease, and suffers no interruption. So also, 
 when we do not feel ourselves encumbered with the weight of 
 our frame, and are not disposed to reflect with uneasiness and 
 solicitude upon its physical condition, we may consider ourselves 
 as in a very perfect stale. 
 
 Certain Conditions which are Essential to Long Life. 
 
 1. A certain bodily and mental disposition to longevity. This 
 is not easily explained, but' is well understood, and many persons 
 with this requisite have lived to old age, under very unfavorable 
 circumstances. 
 
 2. An hereditary disposition to long life. It will be found that 
 the parents and ancestors of aged persons generally lived to an 
 advanced life. 
 
 13 
 
146 
 
 3. A perfect birth of the child, and proper subsequent conduce 
 on the part of the mother. Those children which nearest re- 
 semble their mother are apt to have the strongest claim to long 
 life. 
 
 4. A gradual culture of the physical, mental, and intellectual 
 faculties. The age of man bears a certain proportion to the 
 growth of his powers, and the longer we can protract the differ- 
 ent stages of life, the more extended will be the period of our 
 existence. 
 
 5. A steady and equal progress through life is essential to se- 
 cure the object. He whom neither violent joy convulses, nor 
 deep melancholy corrodes, whose life is not checkered by too 
 sudden vicissitudes, may reasonably expect a long life. 
 
 6. A sound state of digestion is essential to the attainment of 
 advanced age. We find in almost every aged person the organs 
 of digestion in a sound and healthy state. In fact, there is no 
 surer sign of decay than a defect in this respect. 
 
 7. A quiet and peaceful state of the mind, — at peace with 
 itself, its God, and all mankind. Nothing conduces more to long 
 life than this equable condition of the mind. 
 
 8. Finally, such professional or business pursuits in life as- 
 serve to please, rather than pefplex and harass the mind, tend 
 greatly to longevity. 
 
 9. Lastly, we remark that but very few people ever yet at- 
 tained to a great age who were not more than ordinarily particu- 
 lar in their diet and manner of life. 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 EFFECTS OF THE DIFFERENT ARTS, TRADES, AND PRO- 
 FESSIONS UPON HEAI.TH} 
 
 WITH HINTS ON THE SELECTION OF EMPLOYMENTS AND SITUA- 
 TIONS ADAPTED TO THE CONSTITUTIONS OF YOUNG PEOPLE. 
 
 Accountants^ Book-keepers^ and Clerks. — This class of people 
 suffer from confined atmosphere and a fixed position of the body. 
 Their digestive organs sutler most. Fixsli air, and full, musc\i- 
 lar exercise, are very essential. 
 
 Architect^-., Civil Engineers, and Surrn/ors. — Tbougli con- 
 fined occasionally to the desk, yet lluy travel fcpquunlly in the 
 
147 
 
 country, and thu^ enjoy fresh air and exercise, which contributes 
 greatly to their comfort and health. They are not unhealthy 
 pursuits. 
 
 Attorneys. — The profession in its detail is mostly sedentary. 
 They are often kep^ for a long time in a bad position, with limbs 
 fixed and the chest bent forward. The functions of the stomach 
 become disordered, the tongue foul, and the face pale and sal- 
 low. To lessen these evils, the practitioner should by all n^eans 
 exercise two hours each day in open air, and adapt his diet to 
 his situation. 
 
 Bakers.-— This class of tradesmen are subject to disorders 
 of the stomach, coughs, and rheumatism. They suffer from the 
 fact that their work comes more in the night than day. The 
 heat to which they are exposed induces a susceptibility to 
 disease. 
 
 Bone-turners. — Bone-turners inhale a considerable quantity 
 of bone-dust, but it is not considered unhealthy, but ratlier grate- 
 ful. 
 
 ■ Bookbinders and Pocket.hook-makers. — This work is quite 
 easy, and free from any unhealthy annoyance. The laborers 
 suffer more from a close atmosphere than -any otlier cause. 
 
 Brass-workers. — This is considered an unhealthy employ- 
 ment. It creates tenderness of the eyes, short-sightedness, &c. 
 
 Brewers. — Brewers are often afflicted with chronic diseases 
 of the bowels. The business is not considered unhealthy, but 
 brewers often form the habit of taking too frequent potations of 
 beer. 
 
 Brushnakers. — This is considered a healtliy trade. The 
 occupation is sedentary, but the workmen have a hee use of their 
 hands and arms. A vapor also arises from the pitch, which has 
 a good effect in bronchial and asthmatic complaints. 
 
 Bricklayers. — Bricklayers are exposed to lime-dust. This 
 frequently excites diseases of the skin. 
 
 Brickmakers. — This is -a cold, wet, and disagreeable employ- 
 ment, yet it is by no means unhealthy. Persons of this trade 
 often live to a great age. 
 
 Butchers. — This is one of the healthiest of all employments. 
 They have much active exercise in the open air, both on foot, 
 horseback, &c. 
 
 Cabinetmakers. — This is a healthy trade, though indoors. 
 Its only drawback is the dust arising from sawing particular kinds 
 of wood. 
 
148 
 
 Carvers and Gilders. — Those employed at these trades 
 often sUiFer much from headache. They are kept in a leaning 
 posture and in a confniod atmosphere too long to be very 
 healthy. 
 
 Cart-drivers., or Truckmen. — These persons are much ex- 
 posed to changes of weather, yet they are healthy from the very 
 nature of the emploj'^ment, which is yctive and in open air. 
 
 Chrpenters., Joiners., W/ieelwrif^hts., Millwrights. — These 
 employments are veiy healthy, tliough somewhat laborious. 
 Sudden changes of the weather should be guarded against. 
 
 Chemists and Druggists. — Persons employed in these pro- 
 fessions are often sickly, and subject to affections of the lungs. 
 They generally die young. • Care and exercise in the air would 
 tend to abate the effects of the baneful agents. 
 
 Clergymen. — People of this profession are often troubled with 
 diseases of the chest and throat, spitting of blood, &c. They 
 should take regular exercise, and guard against loud speaking and 
 long sermons. 
 
 Clock and Watch-makers. — Persons engaged in this trade 
 often suffer in their digestive organs and lungs. Their posture, 
 sitting all day bent forward, is of necessity injurious. It tends 
 also to injure the eyes. They rarely attain old age. 
 
 Coachmen., Stage-drivers., c^-c. — These employments, on the 
 whole, are rather healthy, though it is not to be concealed that 
 stage-drivers are subject to congestion of the abdomen and brain. 
 
 Coach-builders. — This is a healthy employment, affording 
 good exercise and generally pure air. Subject to but few 
 diseases. 
 
 Co fee-roasters. — This employment leads to oppression of the 
 chest, difliculty of breathing, cough, and asthma, caused by the 
 odor or vapor which the heat eliminates from the berry. 
 
 Colliers and Well-sinkers. — These employments are very 
 unhealthy, and those employed in these pursuits are generally 
 short-lived. The bad gases to which they are exposed bring 
 on premature decay. 
 
 Cooks and Confectioners. — Cooks are subjected to too much 
 heat, and are more unhealdiy than housemaids. Their diges- 
 tive organs are often disordered, and they become irritable in 
 temper, and suffer much with the headache. 
 
 Coopers. — This employment, though objectional in some re- 
 spects, is tolerably healthy. The posture of the body is bad, 
 and often alfects the head unfavorably. 
 
149 
 
 Co'p'persjniths. — This is not considorod a l.oallliy omploy- 
 niciit. Those wlio wurk at it are f^encraily uiiheuUliy, suilering 
 tVoni diseases similar to those of brass-founders. 
 
 Curriers and Leal her -dressers. — Tliose who follow these em- 
 ployments are generally healiiiy, and live to old af:e The bent 
 posture in shaving is unfavorable, and sometimes alfects tlie head. 
 
 Dressmakers, Milliners^ and Straw-Bonnet-makers. — These 
 employments are mihealthy from several causes: 1. small and 
 ill-ventilated rooms ; 2. too many hours' labor ; 3. posture of the 
 body ; 4. offensive vapors in bleaching bonnets. To avoid the 
 bad effects of these causes, rise early, take out-door exercise, 
 work less hours.. 
 
 Dyers. — This is regarded as a healthy pursuit. It is followed 
 with little interruption from 'early boyhood to old age. 
 
 Fishermen. — This class of people are exposed to all kinds of 
 weather, yet they are hardy, enjoy good health, and live to a 
 " good old age." 
 
 Glasshloivers. — This class of laborers are exposed to great 
 heat, and are usually bathed in sweat, yet they are generally 
 healthy and attain to considerable age. Catarrhs and coughs are 
 common among them, and they sometimes die suddenly. 
 
 Grocers. — This employment is healthy in general, except 
 that the frequent handling of sugar, &c., occasions diseases of 
 the skin. 
 
 Hatters. — The hatter's trade is considered very unhealthy. 
 Their hands are often immersed in a solution of sulphuric acid 
 in the process of felting, which corrodes the hands and makes 
 them sore. They are exposed also to alternate changes of hot 
 steam and cold air. 
 
 Iron-founders. — There is, perhaps, no class of people so 
 much exposed to sudden transitions of heat and co!d as founders, 
 and yet, on the w^hole, the trade is not considered unhealthy. 
 They have a pallid countenance and thin face, occasioned by 
 cellular absorption, and often impaired appetite. They gener- 
 ally die young, but few living beyond the age of fifty. 
 
 Machinists. — Those who follow this trade suffer greatly from 
 bronchial irritation, occasioned by the dust they inh.alc. The 
 trade is not healthy, and those who follow it generally die young. 
 
 Masons., or Stonecutters. — The principal objection to this 
 trade is the inhaling of the parlicles of sand and dust which 
 arise from the chippings of the stone. The bronchial membrane 
 often becomes diseased, and consumption ends the race of life. 
 
150 
 
 From their nclive muscular exercise, tlioy liave good color anrl 
 figure. 
 
 Millers. — Those who follow this employment are generally 
 ])ale and sickly, liave a morning cough, and are inclined to asth- 
 ma. Their diseases arc occasioned by inhaling the particles of 
 flour-dust, &G., with which the atmosphere is loaded. 
 
 Pkysicians and Surgeons. — This class of professional men 
 are not very healthy. Anxiety, night exposure, study, and ex- 
 posure to diseases, often sap their consniution, and lessen their 
 chances of life. Yet their out-cloor exercise has a continual 
 tendency to invigorate their health. 
 
 Painters. — This is regarded as an unliealthy trade. The la- 
 borers are constantly exposed to deleterious agents, and are sub- 
 ject to dizziness, vomiting, colic, &c. 
 
 Paper-makers. — Tins class of persons are much exposed to 
 cold and wet, both, at the vat and in the drying-room. They are 
 usually clothed lightly, and, as a consequence, are subject to 
 asthma, pain in the limbs, swelling of the joints, &c. 
 
 Plasterers.) Whifewashers, ^-c. — These people are much ex- 
 posed to lime-dust, and are usually somewhat pallid, yet in the 
 main are healthy. The trade is not objectionable. 
 
 Pavers. — These laborers have strong, muscular exercise in 
 the open air, and though subject to the frequent changes of 
 weather, yet suiier but Utile from acute diseases. 
 
 Plumbers. — This is certainly to be set down as among the 
 list of unhealthy employments. Those who follow it are gener- 
 ally sickly and short-lived. The fumes which arise from the 
 metal in casting are very deleterious. 
 
 Potters. — This is not a very unhealthy emplbyment, though 
 the workmen oft(3n suffer much from colic and indigestion. 
 
 Printers'. — This we regard as an unhealthy |:)ursuit. The 
 workmen are kept in a confined atmosphere, and have but little 
 exercise. The close confinement of eyes, their long, standing 
 posture, tend to injure the digestive organs. Consumption is fre- 
 quent ; few enjoy good health. 
 
 Rope-makers. — The only objection of consequence to this 
 trade is the stooping posture of the workmen. 
 
 Saddlers. — Those who follow this trade arc often subject to 
 headache and indigestion, on account of their confined position 
 of bending forward. 
 
 Shoemakers. — To say that -this is a ruinous and most un- 
 healthy f mployment, woidd only be to affirm what is well known 
 
151 
 
 to every one. Their posture is such as to compress the stomach 
 and liver; the secretion of hile is unhealthy, and bowel com- 
 plaints are frequent. The digestion and circulation are usually 
 impaired. But few live to old age, and there is often a hollow 
 at the breast-bone, made by the last. 
 
 Shop-keepers. — Trades-people are usually too much confined 
 in-doors to be healthy ; always on their feet, yet exercise it can 
 hardly be called. 'I'hcy should get fresh air, as welj as look for 
 customers, and their meals should be taken regularly. 
 
 Smiths. — This pursuit tends to an increase of muscular 
 power. Youths of a strong constitution can have no better em- 
 ployment. They arc rarely sick, or subject to diseases. 
 
 Snuff., Tobacco^ and Cigar -7nakers. — These employments of 
 necessity are injurious. The workmen are exposed to a strong 
 narcotic odor, and breathe an atmosphere strongly impregnated 
 with a poisonous substance. Disorders of the head, the air-tube, 
 and stomach are common. 
 
 Tailors. — Of all trades, we consider this the most unhealthy. 
 Sitting all day in a confined atmosphere, with the legs crossed 
 and the spine bowed, they cannot have respiration, circulation, 
 or digestion well performed. Consumption, disorders of the 
 stomach and bowels, are frequent and obstinate. 
 
 Tallow-chandlers. — This class of people, though subjected to 
 an ofiensive animal odor, enjoy health, and attain to a good age. 
 
 Tanners. — In this employment the workmen are often ex- 
 posed to unhealthy odors, and are constantly exposed to wet 
 feet ; yet they are healthy, and subject to but few diseases. Con- 
 sumption is rare, and they generally attain to long life. 
 
 Tinplate-workers. — The laborers at this business are usually 
 healthy, and attain to considerable age. The chief objection is 
 to the fumes of soldering, which, however, seem to be more an- 
 noying than injurious. 
 
 WQod-turners. — There can be no objection to this employ- 
 ment except the dust, which is apt to be inhaled too freely. 
 
 HINTS ON SELECTING TRADES, &C. 
 
 1. For the delicate and dyspeptic, where there is no disposi- 
 tion to consumption, a choice from the occupations of husbandry, 
 gardening, or travelling is m.ost advisable. 
 
 2. Where, on the contrary, there is a predisposition, either 
 hereditary or acquired, to consumption, the country is generally 
 preferable. A trade should be chosen from among the muscu- 
 lar out-door callings, such as carpenters, &;c. 
 
152 
 
 SECTION V. 
 BOOK OF HERBS J 
 
 THEIR PROPERTIES AND USES IN SICKNESS EXPLAINED. 
 
 n^ " There are herbs to cure all diseases, though not everywhere 
 known." — Dr. Ray. 
 
 Avens Root. — Astringent and strengthening. 
 
 Alder. — This is an astringent, useful in bleeding at the lungs, 
 or as a wash for ulcers. 
 
 Burdock. — This is a cathartic; it will produce perspiration. 
 ■The leaves are good, in fevers, to bind upon the head and feet. 
 
 Blackberry. — This is astringent ; — very valuable in the dys- 
 entery. 
 
 Bluejiog. — Useful in fevers, or to expel humors from the 
 system. Dose, half a teaspoonful three times a day. 
 
 Catnip. — Valuable for injections. In fevers it promotes per- 
 spiration without mising the heat of the body. 
 
 Comfrey. — ^ This is mucilaginous ; valuable in coughs and all 
 consumptive complaints. 
 
 Clivers. — To promote the discharge of urine. 
 
 Golden Thread. — This is useful in bitters; simmered in lard, 
 it makes a good ointment for sore lips, hands, &;c. 
 
 Golden Seal. — This corrects the bile, restores the organs of 
 digestion, and promotes a discharge of urine. 
 
 Hardhack. — This is astringent; useful in the diarrhoea and 
 dysentery. 
 
 Hoarhound. — This is valuable, combined with thoroughwort, 
 for coughs, colds, and all lung complaints. 
 
 Life Everlastiiig. — This is the most efficacious of all herbs 
 in breaking up a long-standing cough, drunk in the form of tea, 
 and sweetened witli molasses. 
 
 Mountain Cranberry. — Very useful in bleeding at the lungs. 
 
 Motherwort. — This will ease the pain in the nervous head- 
 ache. 
 
 Pej^p 67^7711711. — Valuable for the colic; to prevent sickness at 
 the stomach, &c. 
 
 Planta'm. — Good, combined with lard, for the salt-rheum; its 
 juice will cure the bite of snakes. 
 
 Petmyrpyal. — This is a stimulant; it should always be given 
 to assist the operation of the lobelia emetic. 
 
. ,.. — i'his is tonic ; useful i... o. . ;s. 
 
 Skunk Cabbage. — Promotes expectoration, quiets the nerves ; 
 is very useful in aslhraa. 
 
 Sassnfj^as. — Steeped in water, it is an excellent wash for all 
 kinds of humors 
 
 Sage. — Useful in fevers, and for worms in children. 
 
 Saffron. — Makes a valuable tea for children afflicted with the 
 measles, chicken-pox, and all eruptive diseases. 
 
 Slippery Elm. — A good drink in sore throat, dysentery, and 
 is the best article known to poultice humors and sores. 
 
 Thoroiighwort. — This herb is both physical and emetic; very 
 valuable in fevers, colds, coughs, &c. ; good in bitters. 
 
 Unicorn- Root. — This is a powerful strengthener, taking a half- 
 teaspoonful in powder, in a gill of warm water, three times a day. 
 
 Valerian. — Good in all nervous complaints ; a swallow or 
 two taken occasionally will produce the same effect as paregoric, 
 and is every way preferable to it. 
 
 Wormwood. — Valuable in sprains and bruises; drank as a 
 tea, it will cleanse the stomach, and create an appetite. 
 
 Winter green. — This is cleansing to the blood ; may be taken 
 as a tea or as a syrup. 
 
 Yellow Dock. — This is physical and bracing ; valuable in the 
 piles ; it will purify the blood and expel bad humors from the 
 system. 
 
 Yarrow. — This is useful in blood-spitting, dysentery, piles, &c. 
 
 ^^ Most roots should be collected either late in the fall, or 
 early in the spring. Herbs should be gathered while in blossom. 
 They should be dried in the shade, and packed up in paper as 
 soon as they are dry. Herb-tea, to do any good, should be 
 made very strong. 
 
 Measure of Medicines., 
 
 The following tables will often be found useful in measuring 
 doses for the sick. 
 
 
 Liquids. 
 
 
 A Pint . 
 
 contains 
 
 Sixteen Ounces. 
 
 A Teacup 
 
 u 
 
 A Gill. 
 
 A Wineglass . 
 
 44 
 
 Two Ounces. 
 
 A Table-spoonful 
 
 (4 
 
 Half an Ounce. 
 
 A Teaspoonful 
 
 44 
 
 Sixty Drops. 
 
 Four Teaspoonfuls are equal to One Table-spoonflil. 
 
154 
 
 Powders^ Sfc. 
 A Table-spoonful contains Four Drachms, or Half an Ounce. 
 A Teaspoonful " One Drachm. 
 
 Tlie Faaaiiay Mediciiic-€l&cst* 
 
 The following simple medicines should be kept in cveiy fam- 
 ily, in case of sudden sickness. They form a complete family 
 medicinc-chesl^ and will sav^, if judiciously used, a great amount 
 of trouhh and expense. 
 
 Hot-Drops. — Dose, a half-teaspoonful for a child. 
 
 Sweet Tincture of Rhubarb. — Dose, a table-spoonful for a child. 
 
 Wine Ipjecac. — Dose, to act as an emetic, fifteen drops, re- 
 peated every fifteen minutes, till it operates ; for an adult, a tea- 
 spoonful, repeated as above. 
 
 Sirup Squills. — Dose for a child, half a teaspoonful. 
 
 Castor- Oil. — Dose for an adult, a table-spoonful ; for a child, 
 a teaspoonful. 
 
 Camphor. — Dose, a teaspoonful. 
 
 Composition. — Dose, a teaspoonful. 
 
 Crancshill. — For canker. 
 
 Paregoric. — T)osQ for a child, five to twenty drops. 
 
 Lobelia^ or Bloodroot Tincture. — Dose, a teaspoonful for 
 a child, once in fifteen minutes, till it vomits. 
 
 Useful Herbs. — Pennyroyal. — For colds. 
 
 Red Raspberry Leaves. — For canker, dysentery, &c. 
 
 Midlcn- Leaves. — For poultices and fomentations. 
 
 Wormwood. — For bruises and wounds. 
 
 Sage., spearmint., burdock-leaves., thoroughwort., horseradish- 
 leaves., hoarhound^ catnip^ valerian^ yarrow. 
 
 Other Articles. — Senna. — Dose, a table-spoonful of the 
 leaves steeped, for a child. 
 
 White Lily Root. — For canker and cough. 
 
 Slippeiy Elm. — For poultices, &c. 
 
 Gi^ound Mustard. 
 
 Rhubarb in Powder. — Dose, a teaspoonful. 
 
 Hops. — To ease pain by external ai)plication. 
 
 Dover'' s Powders. — To promote sleep. 
 
 I^^^The doses of medicine recommended for an adult may 
 be varied to the age of the patient according to the following 
 rule : Two thirds of the dose for a person from fourteen to six- 
 teen ; one half, fi'om seven to ten ; one third, from four to six ; 
 -^ne fourdi, to one of three years old ; and one eighth, to one of a 
 ^ Tr old. 
 
155 
 
 In tho recipes or prescriptions, w'nerc it is not convenient to 
 obtain all the articles specified, others of the same nature may- 
 be substituted. 
 
 USEFUL ARTICLES TO KEEP ON HAND IN EVERY FAMILY. 
 
 1. A two-ounce n;raduaiing glass. 
 
 2. A thin, flat knil'e to spread jjlusters, ointments, &c. 
 
 3. A set of small weights and scales. 
 
 4. A six or eight syringe. 
 
 5. A small iron mortar and pestle. 
 
 The above articles will be found very convenient to those who 
 reside in the country. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 PARTICULAHLY USEFUL TO THE APOTHECARY, PHYSICIAN, 
 MANUFACTURER OF PATENT MEDICINES, PERFUMERY, ETC. 
 
 SIGNS USED BY PlIYSICIANS IN WRITING PRESCRIPTIONS. 
 
 lb denotes a pound. 
 
 S , an ounce. 
 
 3 , a dracham. 
 
 9, a scruple. 
 
 gr., a grnin. 
 
 R, recipe. 
 
 ana, of each alike. 
 
 Coch., a spoonful. 
 
 P. iE., equal quantities. 
 
 ss., half of any thing. 
 
 iss., one and a half of any tlung. 
 
 q. s., sufficient quantity. 
 
 q. pi., as much as you please. 
 
 O., a pint. 
 
 M., 60th part of a fluid drachm. 
 
 ij., two of any thing. 
 
 iij., three of any thing. 
 
 Jv., four of any thing. 
 
 X., ten of anv thino;. 
 
 XI]., twelve of any thmg. 
 
 f. prefixed to dr. or o%. denotes 
 
 fluid dnichm, or ounce. 
 gtt., a drop. 
 S iv. v., a cupful. 
 § iss., to S ij., a wineglassfiil. 
 f. S ss., a table-spoonful", 
 f. o iij-, a dessert-spoonful, 
 f. o j., a teaspoonful. 
 PugiUas^ as much as can be 
 
 held between the thiimb 
 
 and fm^er. 
 
 j., one of any thiiig^ 
 
 Dictionary of Medical Terms irsEFUL to Everybody 
 
 Acrid, caustic, biting. 
 
 Alterative, establishing healthy functions. 
 
156 I 
 
 Anodyne, casing pain, quieting. 
 
 Anti-bilious, correcting the bile. 
 
 Anti-lithic, preventing the formation of gravel or stone. 
 
 Anti-scorbutic, good against scurvy. 
 
 Anti-septic, preventing mortification. 
 
 Anti-spasmodic, relieving spasms. 
 
 Aperient, opemn|^, mikllv laxative. 
 
 Aromatic, spicy, fragrant. 
 
 Astringent, binding, contracting tlio fibres. 
 
 Balsamic, mild, healing. 
 
 Carminative, expelling wind. 
 
 Cathartic, purgative, cleansing the bowels. 
 
 Demulcent, mollifying, lubricating. 
 
 Deobstruent, resolving viscidity, correcting the secretions. 
 
 Diaphoretic, producing insensible perspiration. 
 
 DiscuTiENT, dissolving, discussing. 
 
 Diuretic, increasing the dischaige of urine. 
 
 Emetic, causing vomiting. 
 
 Emollient, softening. 
 
 Epispastic, blistering. 
 
 Errhine, producing discharge at the nostrils. 
 
 Expectorant, producing expectoration. 
 
 Herpetic, curing diseases of the skin. 
 
 Narcotic, producing stupor, causing sleep. 
 
 Nervine, strengthening the nerves. 
 
 Pectoral, relieving diseases of the chest and lungs. 
 
 Refrigerant, cooling. 
 
 Rubefacient, producing heat and redness of the skin. 
 
 Stimulant, exciting action. 
 
 Stomachic, prodticing action of the stomach. 
 
 Styptic, preventing bleeding. 
 
 Sudorific, causing sweat. 
 
 Tonic, strengthening. 
 
 Vermifuge, expelling or destroying worms. 
 
 Medical I^ceipts. 
 
 Class I. 
 
 Tincture of Lohelia. — This is made by putting 2 oz. of 
 the dried herb and seeds together, in a pint of com^non gin. 
 Let it stand a week, when it will be fit for use. For children, 
 from one to two teaspoorifuls is a dose ; and for adults, from a 
 
157 
 
 half to a whole wineglassful, always repeating the dose every 
 fifteen or twenty minutes, till ifvomits. A little warnn saleratus- 
 water will promote the operation of it, whenever desired. 
 
 Sweet Tincture of Rhubarb. — Rhubarb, in coarse powder, 
 2 oz., liquorice root 1 oz., anise-seed bruised 1 oz., fine white sugar 
 2 oz., new rum 3 pints. Digest in a warm place one week, then 
 strain. Dose, for an adult, from a half to a whole wineglassful. 
 
 Liniment of most excellent kind is made by incorporating 2 oz. 
 of camphor, 6 oz. of spirits of wine, and then adding 2 oz. of 
 spirils of sal ammoniac, and 2 drachms of oil of lavender. 
 
 Bar(Vs Opodeldoc. — Tlike Venetian soap 2 oz., camphor 
 gum 1 oz., brandy 1 pint. The soap is to be dissolved in the 
 brandy by a slow heat, and after its solution the camphor is to 
 be added. 
 
 Worm Elixir. Take 1 oz. of safiron, 1 oz. of aloes, 1 oz. 
 of myrrh ; steep the myrrh four days in half a pint of rum or 
 brandy, then add the saltron and aloes. Dose, give a teaspoonful 
 once a month to children, and they will never be troubled with 
 worms. 
 
 British Oil. — Take of sulphuretted oil 1 oz., oil of pe- 
 troleum or rock-oil -| oz., purified oil of amber 2 drachms, oil 
 of turpentine 4 oz. ; mix. Dose, from fifteen to twenty drops, 
 morning and evening. 
 
 Co7n])osition. — ^^Take 1 lb. of bayberry bark, 8 oz. of ginger, 
 2 Oz. of cloves, 2 oz. of Cayenne, and mix them well together. 
 
 Harlem Oil. — Take balsam of sulphur 2 parts, spirits of 
 turpentine 1 part. I have foiind this compound to be one of 
 the best remedies to bathe for the rheumatism. 
 
 Nerve Oiutnient. — Neatsfoot oil a gill, -spirits of turpentine 
 1 oz., beef's gall 1 oz., brandy half a pint. Simmer till mixed, 
 and bottle for use. 
 
 Class II. 
 
 To make Brandretli's Pills. — Aloes 3 oz., gamboge 2 oz., 
 colocynth 1 oz., oil of peppermint 2 scruples, cream of tartar 
 1^ oz. ; mix well into a pill mass, with sirup or soap. 
 
 Lee^s Anti-Bilious Pills. — Take of aloes, gamboge, each 
 
 5 oz., scammony 2 oz., sal nitre, elixir pro., each 1 oz., mucilage 
 
 of gum Arabic | oz., Castile soap 6 oz., and beat into a mass, of 
 
 which divide 3 drachms into thirty pills. Dose, from one to four. 
 
 14 
 
158 
 
 Powder the dry articles, and beat in a morlar willi soap ; add the 
 elixir pro. and mucilage. 
 
 The above was taken from the PatcnL-Ofiicc. 
 
 To make MorrisotCs Hygean Fills. — No. ]. Pill. Equal 
 parts aloes and cream of tartar, with quant, suff. mucilage to 
 form a pill mass. 
 
 No. 2. Pill. Gamboge 2 drachms, aloes 3 drachms, coloc3''nth 
 1 drachm, cream of tartar 4 dracluns, sirup to mix into a pill 
 mass. Dose, from five to fifteen jLf;rains. 
 
 To make Anderson^s Scotch Pills. — Take pulv. aloes 12 oz., 
 colocynth 1 oz., gamboge 1 oz., oil of anise 4 drachms ; use soap 
 and sirup to form a mass, and divide into pills of 8 grains each. 
 
 To make Lady IVebsler Dinner Pills. — Take pulv. aloes 
 6 drachms, pulv. mastich and red roses, each 2 drachms ; use 
 soap and sirup to beat into a mass, and make into 3 grain pills. 
 
 To make Peters''s Fills. — Aloes, jalap, scammony, and gam- 
 boge, each 2 drachms, calomel 1 drachm. Beat into a mass 
 with rectified spirits of wine. A powerfid cathartic. 
 
 Hooper'^s Female Fills. — Take of aloes 8 oz., sulphate of 
 iron (copperas) dried 2| oz., canella, ginger, Castile soap, each 
 1 oz., myrrh, extract of 43lack hellebore, each 2 oz. Powder the 
 diy articles, and beat the whole into a mass with sirup, and di- 
 vide into pills of 2^ grains- each. Dose, three to four. 
 
 HulVs' Physic. — -Take of myrrh, cinnamon, mace, cloves, 
 saffron, and ginger, each 1 oz., aloes 8 oz., sal nitre 2 oz. Pow- 
 der, mix, and sift. Dose, \ draclim. Ciood in colic, «Sz;c. 
 
 To make Stoughton''s Bitters. — Take bruised gentian root and 
 orange peel each 1 lb., red sanders 2 oz. ; mix with 2 gallons of 
 diluted alcohol. Let it stand a fortnight. 
 
 To m.ake Dalhy''s Carminatire. — Take oils of caraway, fen- 
 nel, and peppermint, each 10 drops ; vnb them up with 10 oz. of 
 white sugar and 5 oz. of carboiialo or lump magnesia, then add 
 1| drachms of sal tartar and 2 oz. of laudanum. Mix with 
 3^ pints of water. 
 
 To make Hill^s Balsam of Honey. — Take gum benzoin 4 oz., 
 tolu 1 oz., honey \ lb., and mix with 2 quaris of alcohol. Let 
 it stand for a couple of weeks, frequently shaldng it well ; then 
 filter it. 
 
 To make Scidlitz Powders. — Mix 1 lb. of Rochelle salts with 
 J lb. super, carb. soda ; put 2 drachms of this mixture in each 
 blue paper \ and put in each Avhite paper 30 grains tartaric acid. 
 
 Br. Monroc^s Recipe. — Paregoric 3| oz., sulphuric ether and 
 
159 
 
 linct. tola, each J oz. ; n.ix. Dose, a tcaspoonful night and 
 morning, or when the cough is troublesome, in a little warm water. 
 
 To make Dr. Gedding's Piles Ointment. — Carbonate of lead 
 4 drachms, sulphate of morphia 15 grains, stramonium ointment 
 1 oz., olive-oil q. s. 
 
 Go'dfrey''s Cordial. — Dissolve 2| drachms of sal tartar in 
 3| pints of water ; to which add 1 pint of thick sugar-house mo- 
 lasses, and afterwards 3 oz. of laudanum. Dissolve J a drachm 
 of oil of sassafras in 4 oz. of alcohol, and add to the above ; 
 shake well, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Eye- Water. — Take of sulphate of zinc 10 grains, sugar of 
 lead 20 grains, rose-water 1 pint. Dissolve each separately, and 
 mix. Turn off the clear liquor for use. 
 
 Various Essences. — Almost all kinds of essences for retailing 
 from the shelves of shops are essential oils of the kind wanted, 
 dissolved in alcohol, in the proportion of 2 drachms to the pint. 
 In essences made for peddlers, the oils are still more diluted. 
 
 Pcrfifliiiery, Cosmetics, Soaps, &c. 
 Class III. 
 
 Cologne Water. — Take of oil of rosemary and lemon each 
 60 drops, oil of garden lavender 90 drops, otto of rose and oil 
 nevoli each 10 drops, rectified oil of amber 30 drops, extract of 
 vanilla 20 drops, alcohol 1 quart. Be sure that the oils are fresh 
 and pure. 
 
 Another. — Oil of garden lavender | oz., oil of bergamot and 
 essence of musk, each 60 drops ; oil of cinnamon 2 drops, otto 
 of roses 8 drops, alcohol \\ pints. 
 
 To make Millc-Fleur Extract. — Take 2 oz. of proof spirit, 
 add 5 oz. of essence of musk, 10 drops of otto of rose, and 1 
 drachm of oil of jessamine. 
 
 Extract of Vanilla. — Take of Vanilla beans \ oz., cut in 
 small pieces and bruised, Tongua beans 1 ounce, best French 
 brandy 1| pints. Digest for two weeks, frequently shaking. 
 
 Shaving Soap. — A very nice soap for shaving may be made 
 by mixing -J- of a pound of Castile soap, 1 cake of old Windsor 
 soap, a gill of lavender water, the same of Cologne water, and a 
 very little alcohol. Boil all these together until thoroughly mixed. 
 
 To make Verbena Cream. — Take plain white soap and dis- 
 solve it in as small a quantity of alcohol as can be used, by 
 means of a water bath, and perfume the mass with oil of bergamot. 
 
160 
 
 Preston's Smelling Salts. — Take bruised carbonate or muri- 
 ate of ammonia, and mix with it one quarter of its bulk of sal 
 tartar; perfume the mass with oil of lemon, if required to keep- 
 white, and if dark, perfume with oil of cloves. Botde it quickly, 
 and add to each bottle a few drops of strong spirits of hartshorn 
 to moisten it. 
 
 Ojo-marrow Pomatum for the Hair, — Melt 4 oz. of beef mar- 
 row, 1 oz. of yellow wax, and 6 oz. of lard ; perfume while cool- 
 ing with oil of bergamot or the essential oil of almonds. 
 
 Cosmetic for Sunhm^nt Face and Hands. — Take of ox gall 
 1 lb., burnt alum and camphor each 1 drachm, rock-salt J oz., 
 rock-candy 1 oz , borax 2 dracimns. 
 
 To made Chlorine Tooth Wash. — Mix a solution of chloride 
 of soda, 1 oz., with 1 quart of water ; bottle it well, and shake 
 ♦it occasionally. 
 
 Patey's Orris Tooth Paste. — Take 1 lb. of Paris white, | lb. 
 of rose pink, 3 oz. of orris root, alum | oz., oil of cloves and nut- 
 megs each 1 drachm. Use honey enough to form a paste. 
 
 Tooth Powder. — Take of cuttle-fish bone 2 oz., fresh orris- 
 root 4 oz., cream of tartar 1 oz., drop lake 2 drachms, oil of 
 cloves 16 drops. Powder, mix, and sift. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 BREYMEN'S TWENTY-FIVE READY ^VAYS TO MAKE 
 
 MONEY ; 'i 
 
 BEING TWENTY-FIVE OllIGINAL RECEIPTS FOR THE MANUFACTURE 
 OF USEFUL ARTICLES WHICH COMMAND A QUICK SALE AND IN- 
 SURE A FULL POCKET. 
 
 Formerly sold for % 5 ; but note indttdad in this work, and tlie ivlvdefor 50 cenU. 
 
 1. Cologne. — Take 1 gallon of Cologne spirits, 90 per cent, 
 proof; add of the oil of lemon, orange, and bergamot, each a 
 table-spoonful ; add also of the extract of vanilla 40 drops ; shake 
 until the oils are cut up, then add a pint and a half of soft water. 
 
 Remark. — This will be found equal to the best French Co-- 
 logne. The longer it stands the better it will be. Be sure and 
 use Cologne spirits, and not common alcohol. 
 
 2. Hair-Oil. — Take 1 gallon of Cologne spirits, 90 percent. 
 
161 
 
 proof, and add 1 quart of Ijest castor-oil, or as much as the spirit 
 will cut up. Add 1 ounce of oil of cinnamon, or as much as 
 will bring it to the desired flavor. 
 
 Remark. — This is the best article in use for the hair. It 
 should not be colored. A good common article, which can be 
 sold cheap, can b(3 made as follows : — 
 
 3. Take 1 gallon of lard-oil in a vessel ; tie up 1 ounce of al- 
 kanet in a straining-cloth and suspend it in the oil a few days, 
 until it comes to the right shade of color. Then flavor with 
 1 ounce of essential oil to suit. 
 
 4. Ox-marroio Povudum. — Take 2 ounces of yellow wax, 12 
 ounces of lard, and 8 ounces of beef-marrow; melt all together, 
 and, when sufficiently cool, perfume it with the essential oil of 
 almonds. 
 
 ^Remark. — This article is equal to any imported from France ; 
 it is excellent for the hair, and sells well in the market. 
 
 5. FreckJe-lLotion ; for the Cure of Freckles., Ta7i^ or Suri' 
 hirnt Face and Hands. — Take half a pound of clean ox-gall, 
 half a drachm each of camphor and burnt alum, 1 drachm borax, 
 half an ounce each of rock-salt and rock-candy. This sliould 
 be mixed, and shaken well several times a day for three weeks, 
 until the gall becomes transparent. Then strain it very car(>fully 
 through filtering-paper. Apply it to the skin during the day, and 
 wash it off at night. 
 
 Remark. — This article, if properly made, will not fail of its 
 purpose. It will sell very readily, and command a good price. 
 
 6. Hair- Restorative. — Take 1 drachm of lac-sulphur, 1 
 drachm of sugar of lead, 4 ounces of rose-water ; mix, and shake 
 the phial on using the mixture. Bathe the hair twice a day for 
 a week. 
 
 Remark. — This preparation does not dye the hair, but oper- 
 ates upon the roots and restores its original color. 
 
 7. Liquid for making the Hair curl., and changing a Sandy 
 to a pleasing Color. — Take 2 ounces of scrapings of lead, a 
 quarter-ounce of litharge of gold, 1 drachm of camphor. Boil the 
 whole for half an hour in a pint of soft water. When cold^ pour 
 off the liquid, and add to it a drachm of the siigar of lead, and a 
 drachm of rosemary-flowers. Boil these up together, and strain 
 off the liquid, when it i^^ ready for use. 
 
 Remark. — There is no ])reparation ever yet discovered vso 
 good for curling the hair and changing its color. It is perfectly 
 harmless also. 
 
 14* 
 
8. Water for Thickening the Hair, and to prevent Us Falling 
 of. — Take 4 ounces of rosemary, 1 pound of grape-vine ten- 
 drils, 1 ounce of honoy. Boil these half an hour in 2 quarts of 
 new milk, and same quantity of soft water. Then filter care- 
 fully through a sponge, and flavor with essence of bergamot. 
 Add enough Cologne spirits to keep it from growing sour. 
 
 Re/uark. — From experience we know this to be a most valu- 
 able article. If it could be distilled, insccad of boiled, it would 
 be better. 
 
 9. Another Excellent Article to prevent the Hair from Fall- 
 ing out. — Take a half-pint of French brandy, a table-spoonful of 
 fine salt, a teaspoonful of powdered alum. Let these be mixed and 
 well shaken until they are dissolved. Then filter, and it is ready 
 for use. If used every day, it may be diluted with soft water. 
 
 Remark. — This receipt was obtained from a barber long pat- 
 ronized by the nobility of France ; and he declared it to be the 
 most valuable article for the purpose ever used. 
 
 10. Turkish Rouge. — Take a half-pound of best Brazil- 
 wood, fine, and of goWen-red color ; infuse four days in a quart of 
 best white-wine vinegar ; then boil them together for half an hour, 
 strain through a linen cloth, and place the liquid again over tlie • 
 fire. Having in the mean time dissolved a quarter of a pound of 
 alum in a pint of white-v/ine vinegar, mix the two liquids and 
 stir them well together. The scum which now arises should be 
 taken carefully olf, and gradually dried and powdered. 
 
 Remark. — This makes a most beautiful, delicate, and perfect- 
 ly inoffensive rouge or carmine, and will give perfect satisfaction. 
 
 W. Another Beautiful and Cheaper Rouge Wash. — Take 
 1 ounce of alkanet and infuse it in a pint of Cologne spirits, until 
 it comes to the right shade of color. 
 
 Remark. — This may be applied to the cheeks by a linen 
 cloth wet in the mixture. It will easily wash off, but is, neverthe- 
 less, very cheap and beautiful, and cannot be detected on the face. 
 
 12. Tooth-Powder. — Take prepared chalk 2 ounces, gum- 
 myrrh in fine powder 1 drachm, Peruvian-bark half an ounce, 
 white sugar 1 ounce, rose-pink 1 ounce. Mix well. 
 
 Remark. — This is one of the best tooth-powders in use ; it 
 cleans the teeth, hardens tlie gums, and sweetens the breath, and 
 can be made and sold at a moderate price. 
 
 13. Extract of Vanilla. — This beautiful flavor is made by 
 tJiking a quart of pure French brandy, cutting up fine 1 ounce of 
 vanilla-beans, and 2 ounces of Tongua, bruised. Add these to 
 
 I 
 
the brandy, and let it digest for two weeks, frequently shaking. 
 7^hen filter carefully, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Rcniark. — This article is in great demand for flavoring pies, 
 cakes, puddings, &c., and sells rciidily at a good price both in 
 families and at the grocer's. 
 
 14. Ice-Cream. — Take of new milk and cream, each 2 quarts, 
 2 pounds sugar, and 12 eggs. Dissolve the sugar in the milk, 
 beat the eggs to a froth and add to the whole ; strain and bring 
 to a scald, but be careful not to burn it. When cool, flavor with 
 extract of vanilla or oil of lemon. 
 
 Pack the tin freezer in a deep ,tub with broken ice and salt ; 
 whirl the freezer, and occasionally scrape down from the side 
 what fathers on. The proportions are 1 quart of salt to eveiy 
 pail of ice. 
 
 Remark. — This is one of the best recipes for this desirable 
 luxury ; the directions are simple, so that every family can make 
 for themselves, or prepare it for sale. 
 
 15. IndeliUe Marking- Inks, of Various Colors. — Take half 
 an ounce of vermilion and a drachm of salt of steel. Powder 
 them very fine in linseed-oil to the thickness required. 
 
 Remark. — This ink can be used with types, hair-pencil, oi* 
 pen ; it resists the action of acids or alkalies. The color may 
 be varied by using different articles. 
 
 16. Writing-Inks, — Black, Blue, and Red. — Take a quar- 
 to r-})omid of copperas and the same of logwood, a half-pound 
 fine-powdered nutgalls, 2 ounces gum Arabic, and 1 gallon of soft 
 water. Boil the galls first till the strength is out ; then add and 
 boil the other articles. More water may be added, as it will 
 bear. Let it all settle, and dip and strain it clear. 
 
 Remark. — This makes a beautiful and popular ink. 
 
 17. Blue Ink. — Take soft Prussian-blue and oxalic acid in 
 equal parts, powder them finely, and then add soft water to 
 bring it to a thin paste. Let it stand two of three days, then 
 add soft water to make the desired shade of color. 
 
 18. Best Red Ink. — Take best carmine (Nakarat) 2 grains, 
 rain-water half an ounce, water of ammonia 20 drops. 
 
 Remark. — ^£\\m is a beautiful ruling-ink for legers and bank 
 purposes. All these ink receipts are of the very best kind, and 
 have never failed to give the most perfect satisfaction. 
 
 19. Oil Paste- Blacking. — Take oil of vitriol 2 ounces, tan- 
 ner's oil 5 ounces, ivory-black 1 ])ound, molasses 5 ounces. Mix 
 the vitriol and oil together and lot il st;md a day ; then add the 
 
164 
 
 ivory-black and molasses, and stir it wril togotlier to a tliick 
 paste. 
 
 Remark. — This makes tlie best blacking for boots and shoe« 
 in use ; will give a bright polisli, and will not injure the leather. 
 It never fails to give satisfaction. 
 
 20. Shaving- Soap. — Take 2 ponnds of best while bar-soap, 
 and lialf a pound of good common bar-soap ; scrape them up 
 fine, so that they will dissolve readily. Put the soap into a cop- 
 per kettle with a quart of soft water, or as little water as it can 
 be dissolved in without burning. Set it over the fire, and, when 
 it is dissolved by boiling, add 1 pint of alcohol, 1 gill of beef 's gall, 
 half a gill of spirits of turpentine ; these boil all together for five 
 minutes. Stir while boiling. Vv^hilo it is cooling, flavor it with 
 oil of sassafras to suit, and color it with fine vermilion. 
 
 Remark. — This soap was invented by a clergyman, and is 
 the best article known. It makes a rich lather, softens the face, 
 and can be made cheap. 
 
 21. Shaving- Oil. — Take 1 pound of soft soap in a jar, and 
 add to it 1 quart of high-proof Cologne sj)irits. Set the jar in a 
 vessel of boiling water, or water-batli, until the soap is dissolved ; 
 perfume with essential oil to suit. 
 
 Remark. — This is a good article for shaving, especially for 
 those troubled with pimples on the skin ; — it sofiens the face and 
 cures the humors. Tv/o or tlirce drops rubbed upon the face with 
 the end of the finger is enougii for shaving. Dip the end of the 
 brush in hot water and brush the lace briskly, and it will raise a 
 rich lather. 
 
 22. Corn-Salve. — Take the extract of Belladonna 4 drachms, 
 peroxide of manganese 3 ounces, potash 5 pounds. Pulverize 
 the potash in an iron ketde and let it stand in the open air 
 twenty-four hours, then mix the whole together. 
 
 Hoio to use it. — Sliave the corn down with a sharp knife, and 
 then apply lor ten minutes the salve ; wash it off and soak the 
 corn in sweet-oil. This is the article sold al)0ut the country, and 
 on the corners of the streets in Boston, New York, &c., for 
 twenty-five and fifty cents a drachm pliial. 
 
 23. Collodion., or Liquid Culicle. — r Take gun-cotton and 
 dissolve it in sulphuric etlier; thicken it with guin-mucilage. 
 
 Remark. — This article touched upon a cut or bruise forms 
 immediately an artificial flesh, which cannot bo washed off. It 
 is useful for mechanics, as it obviaLes the necessity of linger-cots 
 or bandages. 
 
1G5 
 
 2^. Crockery Cement^ which is Transparent. — Take 1 pound 
 of white shellac, pulverizccl, and 2 ounces of clean gum-mastic; 
 put these into a bottle, and add a half-pound of pure sulphuric 
 ether. Let it stand half an hour, and then add half a gallon of 
 90 per cent, alcohol. Shake occasionally, till it is dissolved. 
 
 Remark. — Heat the edges of the article to be mended, and 
 apply the cement with a pencil-brush; hold the article firmly 
 together until the cement cools. 
 
 25. Powder for Cleaning and Polishing Tin., Britannia., SiU 
 rer, and Brass Ware. — Take half a pound of ground pumice- 
 stone, and a quarter of a pound of red chalk; mix them evenly 
 together. This is for tin, brass, &c. 
 
 For silver and fine ware, take half a pound of red chalk and 
 a quarter of a pound of pumice. Mix very evenly. 
 
 Remark. — Use these articles dry with a piece of oiled wash- 
 leather. They are the best cleaning-powders ever invented, and 
 very salable. 
 
 26. Original and only Genuine Silver-Plating Fluid. — Gal- 
 vanism Simplified. — Dissolve 1 ounce of nitrate of silver in 
 crystal, in 20 ounces of soft water; then dissolve in the water 
 2 ounces of cyanuret of potash. Shake the whole together, and 
 let it stand till it becomes clear. Have ready some half-ounce 
 phials, and fill them half full of Paris-white or fine whiting, and 
 then fill up the bottles with tlie liquid, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Remark. — 1. The silver should be obtained in crystal, because 
 its purity is more certain. 2. The materials to make this article 
 can be obtained of any wholesale druggist in Boston or New 
 York. 3. The whiting does not increase the coating power ; it 
 only helps to clean the articles, and to save the silver fluid by 
 half filling the bottles. 4. The above quantity of materials will 
 cost about $1.61, so that the fluid will only cost about three 
 cents a bottle. 
 
 27. French Chemical Soap. — Take 5 pounds of Castile, or 
 white bar-soap, cut fine, 1 pint of alcohol, 1 })int of soft water, 
 2 ounces of aquafortis, a half-ounce of lampblack, 2 ounces of 
 saltpetre, 3 ounces of potash, 1 ounce of camphor, and 4 ounces 
 of cinnamon in powder. 
 
 First dissolve the soap, potash, and saltpetre, by boiling, then 
 add all the other articles, and continue to stir till it cools ; then 
 pour it into a box and let it stand twenty-four hours, and cut it 
 into cakes. 
 
 Remark. — No article of cleansing-soap ever yet excelled this, 
 
166 
 
 and no person tr family will do without it when they know its 
 value. 
 
 28. Washing and Bleaching Liquid. — Take a quarter-pound j 
 of unslacked lime and pour upon it 6 quarts of boiling water ; '^^■ 
 stir it all up, and when it has stood lonjo; enough to entirely set- 
 tle, strain off the clear water and dissolve in this water, by boil- 
 ing, half a pound of sal soda. After this has dissolved and set- 
 tled, cut up 10 ounces of common bar-soap; strain the solution 
 upon it, and mix thoroughly. Great care must be taken that no 
 particles of the lime are poured upon the soap. Prepare this 
 mixture the evening before washing. 
 
 Remark. — For washing, put in the boiler 6 or 8 gallons of 
 water, and add to it 1 quart of the liquid. The clothes must be " 
 put in soak the night before washing, for twelve hours, taking 
 care to rub all the stains and other dirt-spots with soap. Then 
 boil them with liquid for 35 minutes. They are then to be 
 drawn and put into a tub, and clear boiling water to be poured 
 over them. Then rub them out, rinse them well, and they are 
 ready for drying. 
 
 The liquid can be made stronger, so as to take only a gill or 
 half a pint to a washing. ^ 
 
 There are many kinds of receipts for washing-fluid, hut this is 
 the only really valuable one ; it is cheap, handy to make, and 
 truly labor-saving. 
 
 29. Matches. — The ends of the tapers, or v/ood, should be 
 veiy dry, and then dipped into hot melted sulphur and laid aside 
 to dry ; then take 4 parts of glue, dissolve it, and, when hot, add 
 1 part of phosphorus, and stir in a few s})Oonfuls of fine whiting 
 to bring it to the proper thickness. 
 
 Remark. — This preparation should be kept hot by being sus- 
 pended over a lamp while dipping the wood or tapers. Color 
 the ends of the matches by adding a little vermilion, lam})black, 
 or Prussian-blue, to the mass. Be careful not to ignite the com- 
 pound while dipping. 
 
 30. The Genuine Hot-Drops. — Take three quarters of a 
 pound of fine gum-myrrh, 1 ounce of best African Cayenne, a ' 
 quarter-pound of golden seal. Digest the whole in 1 gallon of 
 best cherry spirits for 1 month. 
 
 Remark. — Nearly all the hot-drops on sale are of a most 
 miserable quality, and scarcely fit to use in any form. The 
 above is the genuine, and may be taken by the tcaspoonful, for 
 a dose, in a little sweetened water. It is very valuable in coughs, 
 
167 
 
 colds, pains in the stomach, bowels, &c. Excellent, also, for a 
 bath in cramp, cold feet, toothache, lieatUiche, rheumatism, &c. 
 
 Conclusion. — We think any person of energy who will un- 
 dertake the compound of any one of these articles, -and follow 
 out the sale of them, can make a good living;, and money beside. 
 And no one who does this will ever feel that he has paid too 
 much for them. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE rOCKET L.AWYER5 
 
 OR FORMS IN LAW, CORRECTLY DUAWN AND ADAPTED TO 
 GENERAL USE. 
 
 Plan of Book-Keeping. 
 Day -Book. 
 
 The Day-Book is. the foundation of business accounts. All 
 transactions, however simple, should be entered in it. Every 
 entjcy should be plainly written, and expressed in a distinct man- 
 ner. Write the names of persons in full, in a case of special 
 bargain, and note all the particulars. The quantity and price of 
 every article should be carefully set down. 
 
 Plan of Opening a Day-Book. 
 Boston, March 4, 1852. 
 
 March 9 
 
 George Hooker, .... 
 To 100 Books, 5, . . 
 '* 6 boxe^ Tooth-Powder, 10, . 
 
 Dr. 
 
 5 
 5 
 
 00 
 60 
 
 60 
 
 April 6 
 
 William Rogers, .... 
 To 1 bush. Potatoes, 30, . 
 " 18 pounds Beef, 8, 
 
 Dr. 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 30 
 44 
 
 74 
 
168 
 
 Leger. 
 
 Each person with whom you deal should have a separate page 
 in the Leger. As often as once in a week the entries in the 
 Day-Book should be transferred to the Letter. It will not be 
 necessary to carry forward the items ; the 
 that is essential. 
 
 gross amount is all 
 
 Dr. 
 
 April 
 
 Manner of Opening a Leger. 
 
 Boston, March 18, 1852. 
 
 AViLLiAM Mansfield. 
 
 To Slock, . 
 To Sundries, 
 
 4 301 April 12 
 20 
 24 
 
 10,00 
 14:30 
 
 By Cash, . 
 By Goods, 
 By Cash, . 
 
 Cr. ^ 
 00 
 30 
 00 
 
 14 
 
 30 
 
 Notes. 
 Facts which all should know in Regard to Notes. 
 
 1. A negotiable note is one which is made payable to A. B. or 
 order. It is otherwise, when these words are omitted. 
 
 2. By indorsing a note is understood, that the person to whom 
 it is payable writes his name on the back of it. For additional 
 security, any other person may afterwards indorse it. 
 
 3. If the note be made payable to A. B. or order (see note 1), 
 then A. B. can sell said note, provided he indorse it ; and the 
 purchaser may lawfully demand payment of the indorser. 
 
 4. If the note be made payable to A. B. (see note 2), then the 
 signer only is responsible to any one ^ho may purchase it. 
 
 5. Unless a note be written payable on some specific future 
 time, it should be written on demand ; but should the words " on 
 demand" be omitted, the note is supposed to be recoverable by 
 law. ' 
 
 6. When a note, payable at a future day, becomes due, it is 
 considered on interest from that time till paid, though no men- 
 tion be made of interest. 
 
 7. No mention need be made in a note of the rate of interest; 
 that particular h sellku by law, and will bo collcclcd according 
 
169 
 
 to the laws of the State where the note is dated. In some States 
 it is 6 per cent, in others, 7. 
 
 8. If two persons, jointly and severally (see note 3), sign a 
 note, it may be collected by law of either. 
 
 9. A note is not valid unless the words for value received be 
 expressed. . 
 
 10. When a note is given, payable in any article of merchan- 
 dise, or property other than money, deliverable on a specified 
 time, such articles should be tendered in payment at said time, 
 otherwise the holder of the note may demand the value in 
 money. 
 
 Note. — If, when a note of hand is given, it is not expected 
 that it will soon be paid, it is expedient that it should be attested 
 by a witness; for, in general, the statutes of limitation of the 
 several States limit the right to sue for and recover simple inter- 
 est debts to suits commenced within six years after they are re- 
 spectively due, but except witnessed notes of hand from the oper- 
 ation of the statutes. 
 
 Form of Notes. 
 
 On Time, 
 $1,000. Boston, March 5, 1852. 
 
 For value received, I promise to pay C. D. or order, one 
 thousand dollars, in three months from date. A. B. 
 
 On Demand^ with Interest. 
 $100. Lynn, April S, 1852. 
 
 For value received, I promise to pay C. D. or order, one hun- 
 dred dollars, on demand, with interest. A. B. 
 
 On Time, with Interest. 
 $500. Salem, May 7, 1852. 
 
 For value received, I promise to pay C. D. or order, five hun- 
 dred dollars, in sixty days, with interest. A. B. 
 
 Payable by Instalments, loith Periodical Interest, 
 $2,000. Roxbury, February 2, 1852. 
 
 For value received, I promise to pay C. D. or order, two 
 thousand dollars, in the following manner, viz. : five hundred 
 dollars in one year ; five hundred dollars in two years ; five hun- 
 dred dollars in three years ; and five hundred dollars in four 
 15 
 
170 
 
 years from the date hereof with interest on all said sums, pay- 
 able semiannually. A. B. 
 
 Payable in Stock, ivith Interest. 
 $ 50. Lowell, April 10, 1852. 
 
 For value received, I promise to pay C. D. or order, fifty dol- 
 lars, in stock, at my residence, with interest. A. B. 
 
 Note hy Two Persons. 
 $500. Concord, March 8, 1852. 
 
 For value received, we, jointly and severally, promise to pay 
 C. D. or order, on demand, live hundred dollars, with in- 
 terest. J. H. 
 
 H. W. 
 Note at Bank. 
 $150. Waltbam, April 14, 1852. 
 
 Ninety days from date, I promise to pay C. D. or order, at 
 the Phoenix Bank, one hundred and fifty dollars, for value re- 
 ceived. A. B. 
 
 Receipts. 
 
 A General Form. 
 $ 500. Weston, April 5, 1852. 
 
 Received of C. D. five hundred dollars, in full of all demands, 
 notes, or accounts against him. A. B. 
 
 A Receipt for Money on Account. 
 $20. Boston, December 1, 1852. 
 
 Received of C, D. twenty dollars on account. A. B. 
 
 Receipt for Money paid on a Note. 
 $75. Bostoi?, January 1, 1852. 
 
 Received of C. D. seventy-five dollars, on bis note for the sum 
 of one hundred dollars, and dated at Dover, December 20tb, 
 1851. A. B. 
 
 For Money paid by another Person. 
 $300. Charlestown, January 1, 1852. 
 
 Received of C. D., by the hands of W. T., three hundred dol- 
 lars, in full payment for a chaise by mo sold and delivered to 
 the said C. D. A, B, 
 
171 
 
 For Moneij received for Another. 
 $700. Boston, May 1, 1852. 
 
 Keceived of C. D. seven hundred dollars, it being for the bal- 
 lance of account due from said C. D. to E. F. A. B. 
 
 For a Quarter'' s Rent. 
 $150. Chelsea, May 3, 1852. 
 
 Received of C. D. one hundred and fifty dollars, being one 
 quarter's rent, due this day, for my dwelling-house and estate, 
 No. 1 Street, now occupied by said C. D. A. B. 
 
 Orders. 
 
 An Order for Goods. 
 
 Bristol, April 3, 1847. 
 Mr. John Stone : 
 
 Pay J. N. or order, twenty-five dollars, in goods from your 
 store, and charge Your obedient servant, A. B. 
 
 An Order for Money. 
 
 Danvers, March 7, 1847. 
 Messrs. A. T. & Co. : 
 
 Pay O. P. or order, eleven dollars, and this shall be your re- 
 ceipt for the same, it being for value received. A. B. 
 
 Bceds. 
 
 1^* The circumstances attendant upon a deed are the follow- 
 ing : — 1. It must be written or printed on parchment or paper. 
 2. There must be sufficient parties. 3. A proper subject-matter, 
 which is the object of the grant. 4. A sufficient consideration. 
 5. An agreement properly set forth. 6. It must be read, if de- 
 sired. 7. It must be signed and sealed. 8. It must be delivered. 
 9. And attested by witnesses. 10. It should be acknowledged 
 before a competent officer. 11. It ought to be recorded. 12. It 
 is required, in some of the States, that the wife sign the deed, to 
 free the estate conveyed from her right of dower. 
 
 Form of a Cornnon Deed. 
 Know all men by these presents. That I, A. B., of Vernon, for the 
 
172 
 
 consideration of one thousand dollars, received, to my full satisfac- 
 tion, of C. D., of Tolland, do give, grant, bargain, sell, and confirm 
 unto the said C. D., his heirs and assigns, a certain tract of land 
 described as follows : [here describe the land.] To have and to 
 hold the above granted and bargained premises, with the appurte- 
 nances thereof, unto him, the said C. D., his heirs and assigns for 
 ever, to his and their own proper use and behoof. And also, I, the 
 said A. B,, do, for myself, my heirs, executors, and administra- 
 tors, covenant with the said C. D., his heirs and assigns, that at 
 and until the ensealing of these presents, I am well seized of the 
 premises, as a good and indefeasible estate in fee simple, and 
 have good right to bargain and sell the same, in manner and form 
 as is above written, and that the same is free from all encum- 
 brances whatsoever. And furthermore, I, the said A. B., do, by 
 these presents, bind myself and my heirs for ever, to warrant 
 and defend the above granted and bargained premises, to him, 
 the said C. D., his heirs and assigns, against all claims and de- 
 mands whatsoever. 
 
 In witness ivhereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, the 
 first day of November, A. D. one thousand eight hundred and 
 fifty-two. ^ A. B. [l. s.] 
 
 Signe^, sealed, and delivered " 
 in the presence of A. H. 
 S. Y. 
 N. O. 
 
 Mortgage Deed. 
 
 Know all mmi hy these presents, That I, Gerard Astor, of 
 Cambridge, in the County of Middlesex, and State of Massachu- 
 setts, yeoman, for and in consideration of dollars, paid 
 
 by Lawrence Howard, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk, mer- 
 chant, the receipt whereof I do hereby acknowledge, have given, 
 granted, bargained, sold, and conveyed, and do hereby give, 
 grant, bargain, sell, and convey unto the said Howard and his 
 heirs and assigns for ever [and here follows a description of the 
 premises]. 
 
 To have and to hold the afore-granted premises to the said 
 Howard, his heirs and assigns, to liis and their use and behoof 
 for ever. And I do hereby, for myself, my heirs, executors, and 
 administrators, covenant and engage to and with the said Howard 
 and his heirs and assigns, that I am lawfully seized in fee of the 
 afore-granted premises ; that they are free of all encumbrances ; 
 
178 
 
 that I have good right to s^41 and convey the same to the said 
 Howard ; and that I will, and my heirs, executors, and adminis- 
 trators shall, warrant and defend the same premises to the said 
 Howard, his heirs and assigns for ever, against the lawftd claims 
 and demands of all persons. 
 
 Provided^ nevert/ie/ess, That if the said Gerard Astor, his 
 heirs, executors, administrators, or assigns, pay to the said How- 
 ard, his heirs, executors, administrators, or assigns, the sum of 
 seventy-five hundred dollars, in three years from this date, then 
 this deed, as also a certain note bearing even date with these 
 presents, given by the said Astor to the said Howard, to pay the 
 same sum at the time aforesaid, shall be void and of no effect, 
 otherwise shall remaiu ni full force and virtue. 
 
 In ivitness whereof, i, the said Astor, have hereunto set my 
 hand and seal, this eighteenth day of November, in the year of 
 our Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two. 
 
 Gerard Astok. [l. s.] 
 
 Signed, sealed, and delivered in pres- 
 ence of us, Matthew Hodges, 
 Seth B. Freeman. 
 
 ■•■) 
 
 Qidtclaivi Deed. 
 
 Knmu all men hj these presents, That we, Abner Bowman, 
 John Bowman, Henry Bowman, all of Pepperell, in the County 
 of Middlesex, farmers, and Adelaide Bowman, also of said Pep- 
 perell, single woman, in consideration of two thousand dollars to 
 us paid by Henry Smith, of said Pepperell, trader, the receipt 
 whereof is hereby acknowledged, do hereby grant, remise, re- 
 lease, and for ever quitclaim unto the said Henry Smith, his 
 heirs and assigns, a certain farm and tract of land, consisting of 
 about fourteen acres, more or less, with all the buildings thereon 
 standing, known as the Bowman Farm ; and being the same 
 which descended to us from our father, Abner Bowman, de- 
 ceased. 
 
 To have and to hold the afore-mentioned premises, with all 
 the privileges and appurtenances thereunto belonging, to him the 
 said Henry Smith, his heirs and assigns, for ever; so that neither 
 we, the said grantors, nor our heirs, or any other person or per- 
 sons claiming from or under us or them, or in the name, right, 
 or stead of us or them, shall or will, by any way or means, have, 
 claim, or demand any right or title to the aforesaid preniises, or 
 their appurtenances, or to any part or parcel thereof, for ever. 
 15* 
 
174 
 
 That we will warrant and defend the same from all encumbran- 
 ces, so far as made by us, but not otherwise. 
 
 In witness whereof^ We, the said Abner Bowman, John Bow- 
 man, Henry Bowman, and Adelaide Bowman have hereunto set 
 our hands and seals, this tenth day of March, in the year of our 
 Lord eighteen hundred and fifty-two. 
 
 Abner Bowman, 
 John Bowman, 
 Henry Bowman, 
 Adelaide Bow^man. 
 Signed, sealed, and delivered in pres- 
 ence of us, Ichabod Johnson, 
 Edward Garner. 
 
 1 
 
 "l. 
 
 S.^ 
 
 L. 
 
 S.^ 
 
 L. 
 
 S.^ 
 
 
 
 L. 
 
 S.^ 
 
 Warranty Deed. 
 
 Know all men by these presents, That I, Royal Ballard, of 
 Dedham, in the County of Norfolk, and State of Massaciiusetts, 
 merchant, for and in consideration of three thousand six hundred 
 dollars, paid by Timothy Alger, of Framingham, County of Mid- 
 dlesex, farmer, the receipt whereof is hereby acknowledged, do 
 hercb}^ give, grant, bargain, sell, and convey unto the said Tim- 
 othy Alger [and here follows a description of the premises]. 
 
 To have and to hold the above premises, with the privileges 
 and appurtenances thereto belonging, to the said Timothy Alger, 
 his heirs and assigns, to liis and their use and behoof for ever. 
 
 And I, the said iloyal Ballard, for myself, my heirs, executors, 
 and administrators, do covenant with the said Timothy Alger, 
 his heirs and assigns, that I am lawfully seized in fee of the 
 afore-granted premises ; that they are free from all encumbran- 
 ces ; that I have a good right to sell and convey the same to the 
 said Timothy Alger, as aforesaid ; and that I v/ill, and my heirs, 
 executors, and administrators shall, warrant and defend the same 
 to the said Timothy Alger, his heirs and assigns, for ever, 
 against the lawful claim and demands of all persons. 
 
 In witness whereof, I, tlie said Royal Ballard, and Mary Bal- 
 lard, wife of said Royal Ballard, in token of her relinquishment 
 of her right of dower, have hereunto set our hand and seal, this 
 first day of April, in the year of our Lord eighteen hundred and 
 fifty-two. Royal Ballai^d, [l. s.~ 
 
 Mary Ballard. [l. s. 
 
 Signed, scaled, and delivered in pros- i 
 ence of us, Gideon VVheklfr, ■ 
 
 Loi^TS Si-.AKS. ) 
 
175 
 
 Form of a Will. 
 
 Be it remembered, that I, A. B , of Lynn, County of Essex, 
 State of Massachusetts, farmer, being weak in body, but sound in 
 mind and memory, do make and publish this my last will and 
 testament, in manner tollowing, to wit : [Here state the disposi- 
 tion of the property, personal, notes, cash, real estate, &c.] And 
 lasdy, I appoint T. H. the executor of this my last will and tes- 
 tament. 
 
 In ivitness ichereof^ I hereby set my hand and seal, this 
 tenth day of May, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight 
 hundred and fifty-two. A. B. [l. s.] 
 
 Signed, sealed, and acknowledged \ 
 
 hi presence of C. D. > 
 
 E. F. ) 
 
 General P'orm of an Agreement. 
 
 Articles of agreement, indented, made, and concluded this 
 day of , A. D. 18 — , by and between A. B., of 
 
 in the county of , of the one part, and C. D., of , in 
 
 the county of , on the other part. 
 
 The said A. B., for the consideration hereinafter mentioned, 
 doth hereby covenant and agree that [Here state the agreement]. 
 
 And the said C. D. doth hereby covenant and agree that 
 [Here again state the agreement]. 
 
 To the true performance of tlie several covenants and agree- 
 ment aforesaid, the said parties do hereby respectively bind them- 
 selves, and their respective heirs, executors, and administrators, in 
 the penal sum of dollars. 
 
 In testimony whereof, they have hereto interchangeably set 
 their hands and seals, the day and year above written. 
 
 A. B. 
 
 Signed, sealed, and delivered \ C. D. 
 
 in presence of E. F. / 
 
 G. H. j 
 
 seal.^ 
 seal.' 
 
 A Bill of Sale. 
 
 Knoio all men hy these presents, That I, Cyrus Ingalls, of the 
 town of Greenfield, County of FrankUn, and State of Massachu- 
 setts, trader, for and in consideration of the sum of twenty-five 
 hundred dollars, to me in hand paid by Mark Moseman, of the 
 
176 
 
 same place, at and before the sealing and delivery of these pres- 
 ents, the receipt whereof is hereby acknowledged, have bar- 
 gained, sold, and delivered, and by these presents do bargain, 
 sell, and deliver, unto the said Mark Moscman, [here insert the 
 particulars of the goods sold,] to have and to hold the said goods 
 unto the said Mark Mosenian, his executors, administrators, and 
 assigns, to his and their own proper use and benefit, for ever. 
 And I, the said Cyrus Ingalls, for myself, my heirs, executors, 
 and administrators, will warrant and defend the said bargained 
 goods, unto the said Mark Moscman, his executors, administra- 
 tors, and assigns, from and against all persons whomsoever. 
 
 Bonds. 
 
 Bonds are of two kinds, simple and penal. A simple lond is 
 an obligation to pay a certain amount of money, or to perform, 
 or not to perform, some specified act. A penal bond is given to 
 secure the performance of some agreement, and a condition, an- 
 nexed to the bond, contains the terms of it. 
 
 Form of a Simple Bond. 
 
 Know all men ly these presents^ That I, A. B , of Somers, am 
 holden and firmly bound to C. D., of Vernon, in the sum of five 
 thousand dollars, to be paid to the said C. D., or his certain attor- 
 ney, executors, or administrators, or assigns ; for which pay- 
 ment, well and truly to be made, I bind myself, my heirs, execu- 
 tors, and administrators firmly by these presents. Signed with 
 my hand, sealed with my seal, and dated Nov. 3st, 1850. 
 
 Alfred Bond. [l. s.] 
 
 Signed, sealed, and delivered in the ) 
 presence of John H. Cune. } 
 
 Power of Attorney. 
 
 An attorney is a person legally authorized to act instead of 
 another. 
 
 Know all men by these presents^ That I, A. B., of Tolland, do 
 hereby ordain, constitute, and appoint C. D., of Vernon, my true 
 and lawful attorney, for me, and in my name, to demand, sue 
 for, recover, and receive, from all persons whatever, all sums of 
 money and debts due to me, and all claims and demands, and to 
 give sufikient acquittances therefor; and to adjust, settle, or 
 
177 
 
 compound all debts or demands due to me, and to inetitute prop- 
 er suits for the recovery thereof, and the same to pursue to final 
 judgment and execution ; and I hereby ratify and confirm what 
 my said attorney shall lawfully do in the premises. 
 
 In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, the 
 day of , A. D. . A. B. [l. s.] 
 
 Letter of Credit. 
 
 Tolland, Nov. 1st, 1850. 
 Theodore Stearns & Co. : 
 
 Please to deliver to C. D., of Vernon, or his order, goods and 
 merchandise to an amount not exceeding one hundred dollars in 
 value ; and, on your doing so, I hereby hold myself accountable 
 to you for the payment of the same, in case the said C. D. should 
 not be able so to do, or should make default, of which default 
 you are required to give me reasonable and pr per notice. 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 A. B. 
 
 Simple Forms of Lease. 
 
 Landlord's Agreement. 
 
 This is to certify, that I, A. B., of Hartford, Hartford County, 
 and State of Connecticut, have this day let and rented unto B. 
 C, of said Hartford, a certain dwelling-house or tenement, situ- 
 ated in said Hartford, (No. 1 Main Street,) now or lately in the 
 occupation of C. D., with all the shops, cellars, and appurtenan- 
 ces, and the sole and uninterrupted use and occupation thereof 
 for the term of one year, to commence on the first day of April, 
 A. D. 1850, at the yearly rent of three hundred dollars, payable 
 quarterly. Said premises not to be underlet, but by the consent 
 and permission of the lessor. 
 
 In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, the 
 twentieth day of March, Anno Domini 1850. 
 
 A. B. [seal.] 
 
 Signed, sealed, and delivered \ 
 
 in presence of D. E. > 
 
 F. G. j 
 
 Tenant'^s Agreement, 
 
 This is to certify, that I, B. C, of Hartford, Hartford County, 
 
178 
 
 and State of Connecticut, have hired and taken from A. B., of 
 said Haitford, a certain dwelling-house or tenement, situated in 
 said Hartford, (No. 1 Main Slrect,) now or lately in the occupation 
 oC C. D., with all the shops, cellars, and appurtenances, and the 
 sole and uninterrupted use and occupation thereof, for the term of 
 one year, to commence the first day of April, A. D. 1850, at 
 the yearly rent of three hundred dollars, payable quarterly. And 
 1 do hereby promise to make punctual payment of the rent in 
 manner aforesaid, and quit and surrender the premises, at the ex- 
 piration of the said term, in as good state and condition as rea- 
 sonable use and wear thereof will permit, danger^ by the ele- 
 ments excepted. And provided said rent shall remain unpaid 
 twenty days after the same falls due, said lessor shall be at liber- 
 ty to reenter and take possession of said premises without notice, 
 end said lease shall thereby become void. B. C. 
 
 Hartford, March 20th, A. D. 1850. 
 
 Surety. 
 
 In consideration of the letting of the premises above described, 
 and for the sum of one dollar, I hereby become surety for the 
 punctual payment of the rent, and performance of the above 
 written agreement, to be paid and performed by said lessee ; and 
 if any default shall be made therein, I do hereby promise and 
 agree to pay unto the above-named lessor such sum or sums of 
 money as will be sufficient to make up such deficiency, and fully 
 gatisfy the conditions of the said agreement, without requiring 
 any notice of non-payment, or proof of demand being made. 
 
 Hartford, March 20th, A. D. 1850. G. H. 
 
 Assignment of a Lease. 
 
 Knoio all men ly these presents^ That I, Benjamin Roberts, the 
 lessee within named, for and in consideration of three hundred 
 and seventy-five dollars, to me in hand paid by iNlatthew Lincoln, 
 the receipt whereof I do hereby acknowledge, have granted, as- 
 signed, and set over, and by these presents do grant, assign, and 
 set over, to Matthew Lincoln, his heirs and assigns, the within 
 indenture or lease, together with all and singular the premises 
 hereby demised, with appurtenances ; to have and to hold the 
 same unto the said Matthew Lincoln, his heirs and assigns, for the 
 residue of the term whhin mentioned, under the yearly rents and 
 coypnants within reserved and contained on my part to be done, 
 
179 
 
 kept, and performed. Witness my hand and seal, the first any 
 of April, one ihousand eight hundred and forty-four. 
 
 Bei^vamin Roberts, [l. s.] 
 Sealed and delivered in the \ 
 presence of A. B. > 
 
 C. D. j 
 
 Notice to a Tenant to quit. 
 
 Sir : Being in possession of a certain house and lot of ground, 
 with the appurtenances belonging to me, situate in Summer 
 Street, in Boston, which was demised to you by me for the term 
 of five years, which said term will expire on the twenty-iirst day 
 of March, I hereby notify you that it is my desire to have again 
 and repossess the said premises, and I do hereby require and de- 
 mand you to leave the same. 
 
 Witness my hand, this first day of March, 1847. T. P. 
 
 Agreement of Copartnership. 
 
 A. B., of , and C. D., of , agree as follows: The 
 
 parties agree to become partners for the purpose of buying and 
 selling such goods as are usually kept for sale or purchased at a 
 retail store, in the town of , for five years from this date. 
 
 1. The style of said copartnership shall be, &c. 
 
 2. Said parties have each contributed dollars, as the cap- 
 ital of said firm (or as the case may be). 
 
 3. All profits shall be equally divided ; and all expenses of the 
 business, and losses, shall be equ.'dly borne in common. 
 
 4. Both parties shall give all their time and attention to the 
 business of said firm, for the common benefit ; and neither party 
 shall engage in any trade or business for his private benefit. 
 
 5. An account of stock shall be taken, and the accounts be- 
 tween said parties shall be settled as often as once in every year, 
 and oftener, if requested in writing by either party. 
 
 6. At the close of the partnership, the stock, property, and 
 debts shall be equally divided, after paying the debts and liabili- 
 ties of the firm. [Here insert any other conditions desired.] 
 
 Witness our hands and seals, this — day of , A. D. 18 — . 
 
 A. B. [seal.] 
 
 Signed, sealed, and delivered \ C. D. [seal.] 
 
 in presence of E. F. 
 
 G. H. 
 
 1 
 
180 
 
 Legal Relation of Husband and Wife; 
 
 Showiiig the Rights of Married Women in Regard to Holding 
 
 Froperti/^ Sj-c. 
 
 The effect produced by marriage on the legal rights of the 
 parties is important to be known in every family. 
 
 1. In lav/, husband and wife are considered one person; and 
 on this principle all civil duties and disabilities rest. 
 
 2. The wile cannot sue in her own name. 
 
 3. ir she suffers injury or wrong in her person or property, 
 she can, with her husband's aid and concurrence, prosecute for 
 redress : but the husband must always be the plaintiff. In crim- 
 inal cases, however, the relation assumes a new form. The 
 wife may, in criminal cases, be prosecuted and punished. 
 
 4. The wife can make no contract with the husband, nor the 
 husband with the wife. The disability is involved in the first 
 principle, which makes them legally one. But they may con- 
 tract through the agency of trustees, the wife being under the 
 protection of tlie husband. 
 
 5. All contracts made between them before marriage are, of 
 course, dissolved on that event. 
 
 6. The husband cannot convey lands or rent estates to his 
 wife directly ; but he may settle them on her through a trustee- 
 ship. The wife may release her dower to his grantee. As it 
 respects the bequest, the husband can always devise real estate 
 to his wife. 
 
 7. Upon marriage, the husband becomes possessed of all right 
 and title to her property, whether personal or real, and at the 
 same time he becomes liable for all her debts, and must fulfil all 
 her contracts made prior to the union. 
 
 8. If the wife die before the husband, and there be issue, his 
 heirs succeed to her real estate. 
 
 9. But in case of no issue, the husband remains in possession of 
 her land during her lifetime only, and at her demise, they go to 
 the heirs of his wife. 
 
 10. All debts due to the wife become, after marriage, the 
 property of the husband, who becomes invested with power to 
 sue on bond, note, or any other obligation whatever, to his own 
 and exclusive use. The powers of discharge and assignment, 
 and change of securities, are, of course, devolved in the leading 
 principle. 
 
181 
 
 11. If he die before the recovery of the money, or the change 
 of securities, the wife becomes entitled to the debts in her own 
 right. 
 
 12. All personal property of the wife, such as money, goods, 
 movables, and stocks, becomes absolutely the property of the 
 husband upon marriage ; and on his death goes to his heirs. 
 
 13. Property may be secured to the use of the wife, by deeds 
 of marriage settlements, in order to secure the wife a comfort- 
 able competence against the vicissitudes of life, or the cruelty of 
 her husband. 
 
 14. Property may be settled on the \\\[e after marriage by the 
 husband, provided he be solvent at the time, and the transfer not 
 made with a view to defraud creditors. The wife, of course, 
 cannot devise lands, but any personal or real estates settled upon 
 her in trust, she may bequeathe ; or any savings from property 
 given to her separate use. 
 
 15. The husband is bound to j)rovide his wife with all neces- 
 saries suited to her condition in life ; and of course becomes 
 liable for debts contracted by her for superfluities or extrava- 
 gancies. 
 
 16. The husband and wife cannot be witnesses against each 
 other, in either civil or criminal prosecutions. 
 
 17. One exception to this rule exists, where the law respectin; 
 the personal safety and life of the wife permits her to give testi 
 mony for her protection. 
 
 18. In Massachusetts, a wife may hold property not subject U' 
 the control of her present or any future husband. 
 
 Mode of Procuring Patents in the United States. 
 The Details explained. 
 
 Caveat. — This is an instrument very little understood, and 
 in most cases is uselessly and ignorantly obtained under the er- 
 roneous belief that it secures the invention. Let it be understood 
 that an invention is never secured by law until the patent issues. 
 The caveat is merely a notice of time, and when brought into 
 play, is simply a proof of its own date and of its own con- 
 tents. 
 
 The moment an inventor conceives a novel idea., promising 
 
 utility and value, let him decide how soon he will or can bring it 
 
 out, and secondly how privately. If he cannot do it speedily, 
 
 though in private, let him at once get his caveat prepared and 
 
 16 
 
183 
 
 entered. If he delays, or noises liis idea about, the caveat can 
 scarcely prove of more value than ivaste paper. 
 
 Models. — As soon as arrangements arc made to start the in- 
 vention, the patent papers should l)e forwarded. If the case re- 
 quires to be illustrated by a model, one should be prepared. 
 This should be as small as a distinct representation of the ma- 
 chine by it will permit. Inventors often err grossly in preparing 
 their models, making them usually much too large, and often- 
 times needlessly expensive. Whenever they have a doubt on 
 this point they should seek competent advice, as often the most 
 costly models are rejected at the Patent-Office. 
 
 Drawings. — This part of a patent should always be made by 
 the party who prepares the specification. The best draughtsman 
 has in this no advantage over the poorest, unless he is fully com- 
 petent to complete the business, or is under the immediate 
 instruction and supervision of him who is to do so, for he must 
 know what to represent, and what parts to leave out, as unless 
 these are perfect, they may invalidate the power of the best 
 specification that can be written. They are not required to be 
 elaborate, as works of art, but, on the contrary, as simple as the 
 nature of the case will permit. 
 
 Spccijlcat.inns and Claim. — On this it is not deemed neces- 
 sary to enlarge. No inventor can possibly be ignorant of the 
 essential requisites in these parts of a patent, as in these are the 
 life of the instrument. Show to a jury its defects, and it is so 
 broken that its beauties too often fall with the weak points. All 
 the aid an inventor may avail himself of to render perfect this 
 part of his patent, is clearly gain, w hatever he may pay for it ; 
 for the patent is less likely to be infringed ; lawsuits are saved, 
 and, if he wishes to sell, it will command a higher price. 
 
 Extension of Patents beyond Fourteen Years. — Patentees not 
 having been sufficiently rewarded during the term of their patent, 
 may obtain an extension of the same for seven years, under Act 
 of Congress (Patent Laws, p. 186). This extension excludes all 
 assignees under the original patent, unless there were covenants 
 of like renewals to them. The petition for this extension must 
 be made before the patent expires, or it cannot be effected - and 
 as there is much form involved, and many papers to be prepared 
 in making the petition, ample time should be taken ; say about 
 one year before the expiration of the term. It can be done in 
 less time, but the delay incurs increased risk, and preparing pat- 
 ent matters in haste is always prejudicial to coniplele security. 
 
It may be well to remember that the heirs of an inventor are 
 entitled to obtain an extension of the patent, in every case in 
 whicli it would be allowed to the party himself, were he still 
 living. 
 
 Addiiional Iinprovemcnls. — Whenever an inventor makes an 
 improvement on any work for which he has obtained a patent, 
 the law provides for the addition of it to the patent ; and when 
 the improvement is made soon after the date of the original, it is 
 a less expensive course than to obtain a new patent ; but the 
 exclusive title to the improvement will expire with the term 
 of the original grant. The proceedings required to procure 
 these additions are special ; the preparation of the documents 
 involving the same care as for original applications, and with 
 particular references to the case on which they are based. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CHAIRIVIAN'S DIRBCTORTt 
 
 OR GUIDE, TO THE RULES OF PUBLIC DEBATE. 
 Choice of a Chairman. 
 
 1. The chairman selected should be a man held in respect. 
 
 2. He should be a man of maturity and commanding person- 
 al appearance. 
 
 3. He should possess a fitness for the office. This includes 
 standing in society, intelligence, business tact, self-posses- 
 sion, &c. 
 
 4. The chairman should be chosen in small meetings by nom- 
 ination ; and each person named, the motion being seconded, 
 should be voted for until a choice is made. 
 
 5. The chairman chosen should always be properly conducted 
 to the chair, and he may be introduced to the meeting in a brief 
 speech. 
 
 6. On taking the chair, a few words of remark on the part of 
 the chairman is in order, and generally expected. 
 
184 
 
 Thf. Rights mid Duties of the Chairman. 
 
 7. In a public inccling, tlic cJKvlnnan should be elevated above 
 the assembly. 
 
 8. It is improper for the clialrman to hold conversation with - 
 any person while tlie fioor is occupied by a speaker. 
 
 9. No person should accept the office of cliairman unless he 
 4s prepared to resign all thoughts of promoting any private views 
 of his own. 
 
 iO. When a motion is j)resented to the meeting, it should be ^ 
 read by the cliairman, and objections called for; there being 
 laone, the motion should be put to the meeting, and decided by a 
 majority of votes. 
 
 11. Persons wishing to advocate the motion should be allowed 
 to do so. 
 
 12. If there be an objection, it must take one of the following 
 shapes ; it must be an amendmoU., or negative^ or to postpone^ 
 or for the j^retrious question, or to adjourn the meeting. 
 
 13. The right of reply, as it is termed, exists in the mover of 
 an original proposition ; but belongs not to the mover of an 
 amendment. 
 
 14. The rule of speaking is one speech for each person, on 
 each motion. 
 
 15. If a vote be doubted, it will be the duty of the chairmaf 
 to " divide the /tows^'," and decide the question by count. 
 
 16. If there be amendments to an original motion, the amend- 
 ments must be acted upon first. 
 
 17. At an adjourned meeting, the chairman should cause tb' 
 minutes of the last meeting to be read. 
 
 18. If it is desirable to get rid of a chairman, it may be done, 
 1st, by refusing to do any business ; or 2d, by an adjournment 
 of the meeting shie die. 
 
 19. No speaker should be interrupted while speaking, unless 
 called to a point of order by the chairman. 
 
 20. When a point of order is raised, the person speaking 
 should cease, and await the decision of the chairman. 
 
 21. When several persons rise to speak at the same time, the 
 preference should be given to the one whose eye was first caught 
 by the chairman. 
 
185 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THK LADIKS' MIRROR OF COOKBRTt 
 
 CONTAINING FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE COOKERY OF MEATS, 
 VEGETABLES, PUDDINGS, PIES, BREAD, CAKES, ETC., IN ALL 
 THEIR VARIETY. 
 
 Carving. — 1. In carving, use a light, sharp knife, and grasp 
 it firmly. 
 
 2. Have the dish near you, so as to render the task easy. 
 
 3. A portion of the best and poorer pieces should be served 
 together. 
 
 Cooking Meat. — 1. Roast. Beef. — The sirloin is the best 
 for roasting. From fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound is the 
 rule for roasting. 
 
 2. Boiled Beef — The flank and brisket are good boiling 
 pieces. Boil slow from two to three hours. 
 
 3. Beefsteak. — Rump or sirloin is the best for steak. Broil 
 ^uick over hot coals. 
 
 4. Roast Pork. — Take a leg, season and stuff it ; then roast 
 three hours for eight pounds. 
 
 1^"^ Cook the shoulder, loin, and sparerib in the same way. 
 
 5. Pork Steaks. — Cook them over a clear fire, and season 
 with salt and pepper while cooking. 
 
 6. Broiled Ham. — Soak the slices in cold water before broil- 
 ing. Serve with fried eggs. 
 
 7. Sausages. — Fry them till they are brown, over a slow fire. 
 
 8. Roast Mutton. — Prepare it the same as beef. Cook over 
 a good fire, six pounds to one hour. 
 
 9. Roast Veal. — The same as park, till it comes to a good 
 brown color. 
 
 These general directions v/ill serve as a guide, to be varied 
 from according to circumstances and judgment of the cook. 
 
 10. For Boiling. — All kinds of boiled meats require a quar- 
 ter of an hour to a pound. Fresh meat must be put into hot 
 water, and salt meat into cold. 
 
 11. Eggs. — • Three minutes boils an egg soft ; in four minutes 
 the white will be cooked ; in ten it will be hard enough for salad. 
 
 Poultry. — Poultiy requires a quick fire. Baste often, till it 
 is done, 
 
 16* 
 
186 
 
 1. Turkey. — A good-sized turkey requires two hours roast- 
 ing ; slow at first. Make the stufling of cracker, pork, sage, 
 savory, and egg ; season with pepjier. 
 
 2. BoiU'd Turlcei/. — Stuff the crop, and sew it up; boil 
 slowly till it is'done. Put a little salt in the water. 
 
 3. Roast Ducks and Geese. — Stuff as usual, only add an 
 onion and more sage. Roast till it is done brown. Use only 
 pepper and salt in the gravy for teal, pigeons, and all wild fowl. 
 
 4. Roast Chicken. — Manage chickens same as turkey, only 
 roast about lialt" tlie time. 
 
 5. Boiled Chicken. — The same as turkey, only boil a longer 
 time, — say thirty-five minutes. 
 
 6. Broiled Chicken. — Slit them down the back, and broil 
 over clear coals ; turn and broil to a fine brown. Season with 
 pepper and salt. 
 
 7. Boiled Pigeons. — Boil fifteen minutes, and serve with 
 boiled bacon and melted butter. They may be roasted or 
 broiled. Cover the breast with slices of pork. 
 
 Gravies. — The gravy which flows from tlie meat is best. 
 Thicken with a little flour and water, with seasoning. 
 
 For a fowl, stew the neck, gizzard, and liver in a little water; 
 then add melted butter and seasoning to suit. 
 
 Soups. — 1. Beef So uj). — Cut three pounds of beef in fine 
 pieces, four quarts of water, a handful of sifted bread, and sea- 
 son with salt, pepper, turnips, onions, and a little celery. Stew 
 four hours. 
 
 2. Oyster Soup. — Take a pint of oysters, and stew five 
 minutes in their own water ; season with salt, pepper, and nut- 
 meg ; thicken with pounded cracker. 
 
 Fish. — In choosing, see that the gills are red, the eyes full, 
 and the flesh firm. 
 
 1. Boiled Fish. — Boil over a slow fire, and skim frequently. 
 Be careful that the water does not boil away. Put a little salt in 
 the water. 
 
 2. Halibut. — This fish may bo haked, hailed., ox fried. The 
 baked and boiled should be served whh melted butter. 
 
 3. Pan Fish, — Fry them in sw eet pork fat till they are well 
 browned. 
 
 Vegetables. — In boiling vegetables, the water should be hot 
 before putting them in. It is always better to boil each sepa- ■ 
 rately when convenient. Some kinds require more cooking thaili] 
 others. A good indgmont, joined with experience, will soonn 
 if'tiulate thc' tiiti'^. 
 
187 
 
 , Fruits, Jellies, Preserves, drc. — Acid fruits should always 
 be cooked in bright tin, or brass, and poured out as soon an done. 
 .^ Sfro?ig Applt'-Sauce. — Boil down new, sweet cider till it is 
 nearly as thick, when cold, as molasses. Pare and quarter your 
 apples, and put thcni into some hot sirup. Cover and do them 
 over a slow lire, until tender. Put some molasses with the sirup, 
 unless a part of the apples are sweet. Tliis will keep good 
 through the winter. 
 
 Boiled Pears and Apples. — Boil them whole in a small 
 quantity of water, until they begin to soften ; then add a little 
 sugar or molasses, and finish. 
 
 * Raspberry Jam. — Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar. 
 Put the truit into a preserving pan, and mash them with a silver 
 or wooden spoon. Let it boil up, then add the sugar. Stir it 
 well. 
 
 Cranhemj Jelly. — To one quart of berries, put one pint of 
 water and one pint of sugar, and let them boil half an hour with- 
 out stirring ; then take off the jelly with a spoon, and what re- 
 mains makes good sauce. 
 
 Preserved Citron. — Pare and cut open the citron ; clean all 
 
 •^tic except the rind ; boil till soft. To a pound of citron add one 
 
 pound of sugar, and a len|on to each pound ; put the sug^ir and 
 
 lemon together, and boil It till it becomes a sirup, skimming it 
 
 Vc-ll: then put the sirup and citron together, and boil it an hour. 
 
 Biscuits. — Soda Biscuit. — Take one quart of flour, two 
 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoonful of salt, one of 
 saleratus or soda, and a small piece of butter for shortening. 
 Mix with water. 
 
 To MAKE GOOD Brown Bread. — Take one quart of Indian 
 meal, and three pints of rye meal ; put it into a pan and turn a 
 half-cupful of molasses and two teaspoonfuls of ginger into it. 
 Take some saleratus and dissolve it in v/ann water, enough to 
 mix the meal rather soft ; let it remain in the pan to rise over 
 night. When light enough, put it into pans and bake it. Bread 
 made thus will not sour so quick as when yeast is put into it. 
 
 Superior Indian Cake. — Take two cups of Indian meal, 
 one table-spoonful of molasses, two cups of milk, a little salt, a 
 handful of flour, and a little saleratus ; mix thin, and pour it into 
 a buttered bake-pan, and bake half an hour. 
 
 Bakers' Gingerbread. — Three fourths of a pound of flour, 
 I one quart of molasses, one fourth of a pound of butter, one 
 I ounce of' saleratus. ?\n<l one wjncf" of ^in'^er. 
 
«- 
 
 Sauces and Creams for Puddings. — 1. Take equal quan^ 
 titles of sugar and molasses, boil them together, and stir in a lit- 
 tle flour. 
 
 2. Take the juice of an orange, a cup of sugar, and the same 
 of good cream. 
 
 Puddings. — Baked Indian Pnddivg. — Scald a quart of milk, 
 and stir in seven table-spoonfuls of Indian meal, a teaspoonful of 
 salt, a teacup of molasses, and a table-spoonful of ginger or ciiy 
 namon. Bake three or four hours. If you want whey, you 
 must pour in a little cold milk after it is all mixed. 
 
 Plum Pudding Baked. — Pound six crackers, and soak them 
 over night in milk enough to cover them ; then add three pints of^* 
 milk, four or five eggs, one half-pound of raisins, and spice it 
 with nutmeg ; sweeten it with sugar and molasses. Bake about 
 two hours. 
 
 Custard Pudding Baked. — Take five eggs to a quart of milk, 
 sweetened with brown sugar or molasses ; spice with cassia or 
 nutmeg ; a little salt. Bake fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 Tapioca Pudding. — Pick and wash a cofiee-cupful of tapi- 
 oca, and pour upon it a pint of boiling milk. After standing 
 half an hour, add another pint of cold milk, with sugar, anoT 
 raisins if you like. 
 
 Baked Rice Pudding. — Put half a pound of rice into a deep 
 dish, with half a gallon of milk, a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 half that quantity of butter, and a little powdered allspice. 
 Bake slowly. 
 
 Bread Pudding. — Pour boiling water over some thin slices 
 of bread, and cover close ; when well soaked, beat it fine, add 
 three eggs well beaten, a little nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Put 
 it into a basin, tie it over with a floured cloth, and put it into 
 boiling water ; serve with melted butter. 
 
 Batter Pudding. — Rub smooth three spoonfuls of fine flour 
 into a pint of milk, simmer till it thickens, and stir in two ounces 
 of butter ; set it to cool, add the yolks of three eggs, and put it 
 into a buttered basin ; tie it tight, plunge it bottom upwards into 
 boiling water, and boil an hour and a half. 
 
 Rules in Making Cakes. — I. In making cakes, if you wish 
 them to be pleasing to the eye, as well as tlie palate, use 
 double-refined white sugar ; although clean brown sugar makes 
 an equally good cake. 
 
 2. None but good, sweet butter should be used for cake-mrdc- 
 ing; if the butter should be a little salt, it will do no harm. But- 
 ter in the least degree rnuk or Ftronfr will spoil any rake. 
 
189 
 
 3. Cake mixture cannot be beaten too much. 
 
 4. An oven, to bake well, must have a regular heat throughout. 
 , Cakes. — Wedding Cake. — Four pounds of flour, three pounds 
 ot butter, three pounds of sugar, four pounds of currants, two 
 pounds of raisins, twenty-four eggs, half a pint of brandy, one 
 ounce of mace, three nutmegs, half a pound of citron, and a lit- 
 tle molasses. Bake from two to three hours. 
 
 Icing for Cakes. — Beat the whites of eggs to an entire froth ; 
 to each egg add five spoonfuls of sifted loaf-sugar ; gradually 
 beat it a great while. Put it on while your cake is hot, and set 
 it iu a warm oven to dry.. 
 
 > Pound Cake. — One pound of flour, one of sugar, one of but- 
 ter, eight eggs, three spoonfuls of rose-water, or one nutmeg. 
 
 Loaf Cake. — Two pounds of flour, half a pound of sugar, 
 quarter of a pound of butter, two eggs, a gill of sweet yeast, a 
 large spoonful of lemon, brandy, or rose-water, a little cinna- 
 mon, nutmeg, or cloves ; if it is not as thin as white-bread dough, 
 add a little milk. 
 
 Sponge Cake. — Ten ounces of flour, a pound of powdered 
 Io?f-sugar, twelve eggs, rose-water, lemon, or nutmeg for spice, 
 sai^a a teaspoonful of saleratus. 
 
 Election Cake. — Four pounds of flour, three quarters of a 
 pound of butter, four eggs, one pound of sugar, one pound of 
 currants, or raishis, half a pint of good yeast ; wet it with milk 
 as soft as it can be, and be moulded on a board. Set it to rise 
 over night, in winter ; in warm weather, three hours is usually 
 enou^ for it to rise. 
 
 Pies. — Mince Pies. — Take one quart of wheat or lye bread, 
 and one quart of sour apples, after they are chopped fine, ono 
 pint of sugar-house molasses, one pint of cream or milk, one 
 pint of chopped raisins, two large spoonfuls of cinnamon, one 
 teaspoonful of salt, the juice of six lemons, and the rind of one 
 grated. 
 
 Apple Pies. — Peel and stew the apples, mash them fine with 
 sugar, a little butter, and grated nutmeg or lemon-peel ; bake in 
 a rich crust and quick oven, but not hot enough to scorch. 
 
 Custard Pies. — Allow six or eight beaten eggs to a quart of 
 milk, and sweeten with sugar. Do not bake them too much. It 
 is a good plan to put the crust on the plates, prick and bake them, 
 before pouring in the custard. 
 
 Cranberry Tarts. — Put two pounds of sugar into two quarts 
 of cranberries, wet with water, and stew them until done. 
 When wanted for use, put them on a puff'-paste crust. 
 
190 
 
 S(piash Pics, — Boil and sift the squash, and make them ex- 
 actly like pumpkin pics. 
 
 Pickles and CATcmirs. — A method of pickling cucumbers, 
 which is good, is to put thom in salt and water as you pick them, 
 changing the salt an<l water once in throe or four days. When 
 you have done collecting your cucumbers for pickling, take them 
 out of the salt and water, turn on scalding hot vinegar, with alum 
 and salt in it. 
 
 2 o Pickle VegefahJes. — Soak them for about one day in 
 brine, then drain them, put tb.em into bottles, and pour on them 
 boiling vinegar, until quite covered. Cork immediately. 
 
 Tomato Pickles. — Take one peck of tomatoes gathered green, 
 and one third as many peppers ; soak them in cold water twen- 
 ty-four hours; cold, sharp vinegar enough to cover, with one 
 ounce of bruised cloves to a gallon of vinegar. Tomatoes 
 pickled in this way will keep one year. 
 
 Peppers. — Take those that are fresh and green, soak them in 
 salt and water eight or nine days, changing tlie brine each day, 
 and keeping them in a warm place. If they are not wanted 
 very fiery, make a slit in them and extract the seeds. --^ 
 
 Tomato Catchup. — Take six pounds of tomatoes, and sprinkle 
 with salt ; let them remain a day or two, then boil, and press 
 through a coarse sieve or colander. Put into the liquor half a 
 pint of vinegar, cloves, pepper, ginger, and cinnamon ; boil 
 them one third away. Bottle tight. It should be shaken before 
 being used. 
 
 Yeasts. — Potato Yeast. — Boil potatoes soft, peel and mash 
 them, and add as much water as will make them of the consist- 
 ence of common yeast ; while the potatoes are warm, put in 
 half a teacupful of molasses, and two table-spoonfuls of yeast. 
 Let it stand near the fire until done fermenting, when it will be 
 fit for use. 
 
 Hoj) Yeast. — In two quarts of water boil a handful of hops, 
 strain, and pour the liquor hot upon half a teacupful of wheat 
 flour. When about milk-warm, add a teacupful of yeast. Let 
 it ferment, when it will be ready for use and may be bottled. 
 
 A Refreshing Drink in a Fever. — Put a little tea-sage, 
 two sprigs of balm, a little wood-sorrel, into a stone jug, having 
 first washed and dried them ; peel thin a small lemon, and clear 
 from the white ; slice it, and put a bit of the peel in ; then pour 
 in three pints of boiling water, sweeten, and cover it close. 
 
191 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE liADY'S LOOKWrG-GI.ASS OF FASHION ANO POI,ITE- 
 
 NESS. 
 
 1. A LETTEK of inl reduction, note of invitation, or reply, should 
 always be inclosed in an envelope. 
 
 ^ 2. A letter of introduction sliould always inclose the card and 
 address of the person introduced. 
 
 3. Notes of invitation should always be sent in the name of 
 the lady of the house. 
 
 4. Invitations should be answered witliin two days. ^--^.^^ 
 
 5. Notes of invitation should not be seeded. 
 
 6. Figured and colored paper is out of style; pure white 
 paper, with gilt edges, is more strictly in good taste. 
 
 7. It is considered a mark of respect to commence a letter to- 
 wards the middle of the page. 
 
 8. Printed cards sliould be used when the party is large. 
 
 9. All letters should be sealed and subscribed so as to give 
 j'S'^jii for the postmark without defacing the superscription. 
 
 Models of liw'itihtion Cards and Notes. 
 
 The usual form is simply : — 
 
 Mrs. requests the pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. 's com- 
 pany on Thursday evening, at eight o'clock. 
 
 Separate notes should be sent to the sons and daughters, if 
 their company is v/ishcd. 
 
 The answer should be as follows : — 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. accept with pleasure Mrs. 's invitation 
 
 for Thursday evening next. 
 
 If a refusal is sent, it should be expressed thus : — 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. regret that it will not be in their power to 
 
 accept Mr. and Mrs. 's invitation for Thursday evening 
 
 next. 
 
 The date should always be put at the bottom of the note on 
 the left-hand side. 
 
 How to Address a I.ady. 
 We address a married lady, or widow as Madam, or by 
 
19-2 
 
 name, as Missis or Mistress Jones. In answering a question, 
 we contract the madam to ma'am, as, "Yes, ma'am," — "No, 
 ma'am," — "Very fine day, ma'am." '-' 
 
 A young lady, if the eldest of the family, unmarried, is en- 
 titled to the surname, as Miss Smith, while her younger sisters 
 are called Miss Mary, Miss Julia, &c. The term " Miss," used 
 by itself, is very inelegant. 
 
 Rules to be observed in Conversatioti. • 
 
 1. Address yourself to the capacity of those to whom you 
 speak. 
 
 2. Direct your conversation to such subjects as you know to'' 
 be agreeable to the company. 
 
 3. Good humor and wit is the charm of conversation. 
 
 4. It is not impolite to laugh, in company, when there is any 
 thing amusing going in. 
 
 5. Nothing is more annoying than to be frequently interrupt- 
 ed in conversation. 
 
 6. Contradiction is the greatest rudeness any person can be i 
 guilty of. ,,.^ 
 
 7. Whispering in company is highly improper. 
 
 8. Never attempt to take the lead in conversation. 
 
 9. It is not good taste for a lady to say, " Yes, 5tr," and 
 " No, Si?*," to a gentleman. 
 
 10. Due deference should always be paid to the aged. 
 
 The Styles of Dress best suited to Different 
 Complexions. 
 
 Every lady should study and determine what dress and hat 
 best become her form and complexion. In America there is 
 not the distinction made in the style of dress it is necessary 
 there should be, between a tall and a short, or a slender and a 
 thick person, or a dark or light complexion, but all must dress in 
 the latest fashion, however unbecoming it may be. 
 
 1. The Hat. — A delicate pale complexion should wear a pink 
 lining, but where there is color with it, blue or straw-color should 
 be worn. A brunette or dark complexion should wear white 
 lining, with a delicate rose trimming ; never black, unless un- 
 avoidable. A large person, with prominent features, should 
 never wear a small hat. The reverse with small persons. An 
 extremely red or yellow complexion should not wear high colors. 
 Yellow, lilac, and red are the most trying colors to the complex- 
 
1SI3 
 
 ion. A close cottage is generally becoming, and never consid- 
 ered unfashionable. 
 
 2. The Dress. — Suit the dress to the complexion, the same as 
 the hat. A short figure should not wear so full a skirt as a tall 
 one. Every species of drapery is graceful to a tall figure, and 
 may be worn to advantage. Tight sleeves without trimmings 
 are becoming to full forms, the medium height, or below it. To 
 a tall, slender figure, with long arms, they are very ungraceful, 
 unless trimmed with folds or drapery. 
 
 3. Flounces. — Flounces are graceful upon tall persons, 
 whether slender or otherwise, but never upon diminutive ones. 
 
 4. Tucks. — Tucks are equally graceful upon both, and never 
 look out of fashion. A couple of wide tucks, which give the 
 appearance of two skirts, are very beautiful for an evening dress, 
 made of delicate materials. Any species of trimming down the 
 front or sides of the skirt increases the apparent height. Capes 
 are only becoming to persons with falling shoulders, unless made 
 to fit the form. 
 
 5. High-neck Dresses. — High-neck dresses are simple and 
 generally becoming ; upon a very high-shouldered person a low- 
 necked dress is more appropriate, and if the shoulders are only 
 moderately high, the neck may still be covered and the dress 
 finished off about the throat with a narrow piece of lace, instead 
 of a collar. Dresses with loose backs are only becoming upon 
 very fine and slender figures. 
 
 6. Evening Dresses. — Evening dresses of transparent mate- 
 rials look well when made high in the neck ; but upon very 
 young girls it is more graceful to cut the dresses low, leaving 
 part of the shoulders exposed. A dress should always be made 
 loose over the chest and tight over the shoulder-blades. Long 
 sashes fastened in front are more becoming than belts, unless 
 there is much trimming upon the dress. Cuffs or narrow lace at 
 the wrist finish the dress, and give the hands a small appear 
 ance. The effect of a well-made tournure (or bustle) is to 
 make the waist look round and delicate. An extremely small 
 and waspish-looking waist can never be considered handsome. 
 It is exceedingly hurtful to those who attain it by tight-lacing, 
 and doubly ungraceful, since it prevents all graceful move- 
 ments. 
 
 7. Short Cloaks. — Short cloaks are very unbecoming to 
 short and clumsily built persons, but to a tall figure the re- 
 verse. 
 
 17 ^ 
 
194 
 
 Various Styles of Drcssang the Hair. 
 
 1. Dressing the Hair. — Light hair is generally most becom- 
 ing when curled. For an oval face, long and thick ringlets are 
 suitable ; but if the face is thin and sharp, the ringlets should be 
 light, and not too long. Open braids are veiy beautiful when 
 made of dark hair. A simple and graceful mode of arranging 
 the hair, is to fold the front locks behind the ears, permitting 
 the ends to fall in a couple of ringlets on either side behind. 
 Great care should be taken to part the hair directly in the centre 
 of the forehead. Persons with very long, narrow heads may 
 wear the hair knotted very low at the back of the neck. If the 
 head is long, but not very narrov/, the back hair may be drawn 
 to one side, braided in a thick braid, and wound around the head. 
 When the head is round, the hair should be formed in a braid in 
 the middle of the back of the head. If the braid is made to re- 
 semble a basket, and a few curls permitted to fall from within it, 
 the shape of the head is much improved. 
 
 2. Caps. — Caps are becoming to most ladies, but they should 
 be trimmed with as few bows and as little lace as possible. 
 Upon a long head they look well with a narrow border of lace 
 lying close to the face and forehead. 
 
 Style of I>ress suited to a <^eiitleiuau. 
 
 1. The importance of dressing properly can scarcely be over- 
 rated. It not only influences the opinions of others in regard to 
 us, but governs our own self-respect. A shabbily-dressed man 
 is likely to feel shabbily, and to commit shabby actions. A man 
 with his coat out at the elbows, a shocking bad hat, and boots 
 run down at the heel, will do things, of which, in his dressed 
 moments, he would be heartily ashamed. 
 
 2. A dandy farmer, an over-dressed mechanic, and a finical 
 tradesman are ridiculous ; but there is no reason why people of 
 all employments should not wear clean linen and dress with per- 
 fect neatness. 
 
 3. A plain, simple style is most proper for people of every 
 class, — the richest as well as the poorest. Flashy dresses, 
 fancy colors, and excess of ornament are the distinguishing 
 marks of blacklegs and prostitutes. 
 
 Full dress, for gentlemen, admits of but two colors, black and 
 white. Undress allows of grays, browns, olives, indigos, and 
 other quiet colors. 
 
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 the Mechanic, whether Employer, Journeyman or Apprentice. 
 The editors will spare no pains to furnish late information in 
 regard to new Inventions, which will be illustrated by engra- 
 vings and full descriptions. It contains eight large pages, and 
 the price is $2 per year, in advance. 
 
 The American Odd Fellow, a weekly journal devoted to Odd 
 Fellowship and the News of the Day, General Miscellany, with 
 occasional Engravings and Music. This journal contains 
 eight large quarto pages, and is an interesting Family paper, 
 for all, whether belonging to the I. O. O. F. or not. This 
 journal is published by J. B. HALL, Boston, at $2 per annum, 
 in advance. A limited number of advertisements inserted at 
 fair prices. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 FaxvAOB 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Farmer's Vade Mecum. 
 
 Section I. — Open Field Crops. 
 
 Soils. — Manure. — Liquid Manure. — 
 Manure for Grass Grounds, Top- 
 Dressings, &c. — Materials for Dress- 
 I. ing. — Manure from Swine. — Ashes . 13 
 ''^ Barley. — Soil — Previous Crop — Mode 
 of Manuring — Preparation of the 
 Ground. — Seed and Sowing. — Time 
 and Method of Harvesting. — Produce 
 
 and Product 15 
 
 Buckwheat. — Soil. — Harvesting. — Its 
 
 Blossoms Food for Bees. — Manuring. 17 
 Oats. — Harvesting Oats, &c. . . 17 
 WAmf. — Seed. — Sowing, &c. . . 18 
 Indian Corn. — Soil. — Preparation. — 
 Time of Planting. — Preparation of 
 Seed. — Mode of Planting. — Harvest- 
 
 ing 
 
 Beans. — Value of. — Planting. — Seed. 20 
 Peas. — Soil and Situation. — Time of 
 Sowing. — Manner of. — Quantity of 
 Seed. — Insects. Mice. &c. . . .21 
 Potatoes. — Soil — Uses.— Seed. . 21 
 Ruta-Baga. — Soil and Culture. . . 22 
 Mangel - Wurzel. — Soil- — Planting. — 
 
 Uses. — Crops. — Gathering . . 23 
 English Turnips. — Crops. — Second 
 
 Crop. — Insects, &c 23 
 
 Qras$es. — Clover. — Meadow Grass. — 
 Soils. — Pasture Grasses. — Seed. — 
 
 Time of Sowing 24 
 
 Hops. — The Plant. — Soils. — Prepar- 
 ing the Land. — Mode of Planting. — 
 First Season. — Time of Gathering. 25 
 Broom Corn. — Kinds. — Planting. — 
 
 Cultivation. — Gathering. . . . 26 
 
 Mi«et. — Varieties. — Soil. — Seed. . 27 
 
 Flax. — Soil. — Seed and Sowing. . . 27 
 
 Hemp. — Soil. — Ploughing. — Sowing. 
 
 —Cutting. — Rotting. ... 27 
 
 Page I Section II. — Tlie Farmer** HHm* 
 11 cellauy of Home Matters. 
 
 Dairy. — General Remarks. — Dairy- 
 house. — Temperature of Milk-Rooms. 
 
 — Dairy Utensils. — Milk-Coolers, &c. 
 — Making Butter in Winter. — Garlic 
 in Butter 28 
 
 Cheese. — Making Cheese. — Stilton 
 Cheese. — Skippers in Chpese. — To 
 prevent Rancid Flavor of Cheese. . 29 
 
 Barns. — Ix)cation. — Size. — Barn Floor. 
 
 — Grain Bin 81 
 
 Fences. — Beat Rails. — Best Posts.— 
 
 Stone Walls. ... .31 
 
 Drains. — Two Kinds. — Ditching a 
 Fence. — Open Drains. — Draining a 
 Swamp. — Main Ditches. — Rule for 
 all Drains 32 
 
 Hay^naking. — Cutting Grass. — Mow- 
 ing close. — Signs of Rain , . .33 
 
 Harvesting. — Wheat. — Rye. — Oats, 
 &c 34 
 
 B«.«/i«5. — Time of Cutting. — Manner, 
 &c 34 
 
 Ploughing. — Soils. — Time. — Depth. 
 
 — Dry Soils, &c. . . . _ . 35 
 Pasture. — Management of — Turning 
 
 in Cattle —Bushes and Shrubs.— 
 Feeding in Rotation. — Manuring. — 
 Water. — Way to obtain it, &c. . . SO 
 WoorHand. — Young Growth. — To 
 thicken a Forest. — Old Trees. — De- 
 caying Forest 37 
 
 19 
 
 Section III. — Tlie Most Conunon 
 Noxious Insects. 
 
 Insects — Preventive Operations. . . 88 
 Canker-worm. — Three Modes of Tar- 
 
 ring 
 
 Caterpillars. — Way to destroy them, 
 Cut-worm. — Remedies for, &c. 
 Apple-tree Borers — Preventive, &c, 
 Slug-ioorm — Remedies. ■ 
 Wire or Red Worm — Remedies. . 
 Striped Bug, or Yellow Fly. 
 41^- 
 
IV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Sectioii IV. — Clioice Collection 
 of Agricultural Receipts, val- 
 uable to tlxe Faruier and Ixia 
 Wife. 
 
 \iJ^ These have all been tested aud approved. 
 
 Class I. 
 1. Way to make Candlea. . . .41 
 2 To prevent Cheese from Cracking. 41 
 
 3. iJairy Secret 41 
 
 4. Preserving Eggs 42 
 
 5. To preserve Hams from Flies. . . 42 
 
 6. A Pickle for Beef and Pork. . . 42 
 
 7. Way to preserve Bacon. . . .42 
 
 8. Apples 42 
 
 9. To drive away Ants. . . .42 
 
 10. Bees^^Ilovv to oatch the Moth, or 
 
 MUler 42 
 
 11. To prevent Bees from Fighting. . 43 
 
 12. To preserve Vines from Bugs. . 4^ 
 
 13. To keep Crows from Corn . . 43 
 
 14. Prevent Depredations from IlaMkd. 43 
 
 15. To protect Hops from Insects. . 4-3 
 IG. To destroy Imsects on Plants. . . 44 
 
 17. Insects in Orchards. ... 44 
 
 18. Worms tuid Grubs .... 44 
 
 19. Bone-Dust. . . • . . 44 
 
 20. Barren Orchards made Thrifty. . 4^1 
 
 Class II. 
 
 1. Keeping Calves with Sheep. . . 4^1 
 
 2. Choked Cattle and Hogs. . . 44 
 
 3. Feeding Cattle 45 
 
 4. To gave in Feeding Ilorrica. . . 4o 
 
 5. Salting Horses. . . . .45 
 
 6. Feeding with Oats. ... 45 
 
 7. Marks of a Horse 45 
 
 8. Colts. ... . . .45 
 
 9. Feeding liens with Oats . . . 4.") 
 30. Hens. — To protect from Vermin. 45 
 
 11. To fatten Fowls 45 
 
 12. Feeding Geese 4(3 
 
 13. To give Sheep an Appetite. . . 4G 
 
 14. Hinging Swine . . .46 
 
 15. Cure for I'oison in Sheep. . . 46 
 lb'. Ointment for Cattle. ... 47 
 
 17. Milk Spreading 47 
 
 18. Salt for Stock 47 
 
 19. Corn soaked for Swino. . . .47 
 
 CLAS3 III. 
 
 1. Transplanting Trees. . . .47 
 
 2. To prevent Trees from becoming 
 
 Hide-bound 47 
 
 3. To form New Bark on Old Trees. . 47 
 
 4. To keep away the Borer. . . 47 
 
 5. Setting Trees 48 
 
 6. Planting Forest-Trees. ... 48 
 
 7. To preserve Tiees from Mice, Moles, 
 
 &c 48 
 
 8. Grafting, &c 48 
 
 9. Budding Trees 48 
 
 10. Scions 48 
 
 11. Composition for Grafting. . . 48 
 
 12. To preserve Apples and Pears. . 49 
 18, To preserve Sweds for Pla.iithii,'. , 49 
 
 14. Com soaked '" Saltpe^e. 
 
 15. Suckers in Corn not to be eat. 
 
 16. llule for measuring Corn in the Crib 
 
 17. Kust in AV'heat 
 
 18. Silk-worms 
 
 19. Maple Sugar. .... 
 
 20. Foul Ca.sks made Cleaju. . 
 
 21. To clciinse Water 
 
 22. To keep Potatoes from Sprouting. . 
 
 23. To cure Poison of Ivy. 
 
 24. Manure for Melons 
 
 25. Cheap Paint for a Barn. 
 
 26. Value of the Sunflower, . 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 Section I. — Farm and Doukostio 
 
 Animals. 
 
 Neat Cattle. — Rules in Selecting, &c. 
 
 — How to determine the Age of Cat- 
 tle — Feeding Cattle — Watering Cat- 
 tle, — Conliniug Cattle. — Cai'ding Cat- 
 tle. — Fall Feeding 61 
 
 Ox<)i. — Signs of a Good Ox. — To pre- 
 vent Sore Necks. — Carding Oxen. — 
 Proper Care of them — To prevent 
 Pushing and Crowding. — Traimng 
 
 O.Ken to dx-aw 52 
 
 Ox rmw5. — Their Value, &c. . 63 
 
 Bulls — Signs of a Good Bull. , . 54 
 Working Cojvs. — Best Kind. — Care of 
 tho.se about to calve. — Cow-Stables. 
 
 — Cleanliness 64 
 
 Section II. —Oeneral Manag^fr* 
 ment of t.lie Co-*v. 
 
 The Dairi/, or Milck Cow. — Qualities. 
 
 — Selecting a Cow — Signs of a Good 
 Cow. — Times and Manner of Milking, 
 
 — Time of Calving ■ — Time of Drying 
 up a Cow, — Abortion. — Parturition. 
 
 — Treatment after Calving. — Atten- 
 tion to Teats and Bag — Cow Feed- 
 ing. — Soiling out and in doors. — 
 Quantity and Quality of Milk. — 
 Brewers' Gi-ain. — Winter Food for 
 Cows. — The Profit of Cows. . . 55 
 
 Cow-house. 59 
 
 Coiv Cleaning 60 
 
 breeds of Cows. .... 60 
 
 Calves. — Breeding and Rearing. — Best 
 Calves for Raising — Calves to be 
 reared. — Calves designed for Veal. — 
 AVeek-old Calves for Market — Calves 
 nursed by their Mothers. — Best Milk 
 for Calves. — Feethng with Skim-Milk. 
 
 — Calves should be kept Warm. — 
 Should be kept Clean. — ^Vintering 
 Calves 60 
 
 Section III. — Slieei), I<anil>fly 
 Croats, &c. 
 
 Varieties. — Management of — Feeding, 
 Watering. &c. — Ewes, Lambs, &c. — 
 Season K>r Droppuig. — Time apd 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 < 
 
 Mode of Shearing. — Pr«:)per Pastures. 
 
 — Value of Tea-Sti-aw for Sheep. — 
 Good Air 62 
 
 Goats. — A'^arieties. — Their value. . 64 
 
 Section IV. — S^vine. — Manage- 
 uieiit of. 
 
 JIarks of a Good Hog — Best Breed. — 
 Selecting Sows. — To prevent Sows 
 from eating their Young. — F.-vttemng 
 Hogs. — liu bbiug Hogs — Warm i<'ood. 64 
 
 Section V. — Horses, Colts, 
 Mules, &>c. 
 
 Feeding Horses — Breaking a Young 
 Horse — Teachil^g a Horse to Draw. 
 
 — Food for Horses. — Horses should 
 
 be curried. — Should have Shelter. . 66 
 Mule. — Uses and Value. ... 67 
 
 Section VI. — Dogs. — Voirieties, 
 Qualities, <&>c. 
 
 Nine Rules on Breeding, Rearing, &c. . 68 
 
 Newfoundland Dog 68 
 
 Spaniel , . 68 
 
 Setter 68 
 
 Pointer 68 
 
 Shepherd's Dog 68 
 
 BuU-Dog. ,..,,. 68 
 
 Drover's Dog. . , , . . 68 
 
 Terrier 69 
 
 Poodle 69 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 
 Containing the Latest and 
 MOST Approved System for 
 the Cure of all Diseases 
 
 * Incident to Domestic Ani- 
 mals. 
 
 Section I. — Neat Cattle. 
 
 Cattle.— To cure Horen Foot. —Hoof- 
 ail. — Loss of Cud. — Horn-ail. — 
 Remedy. — Murnuu, or Plague. — 
 Recipe. — Mange, or Itch. — Lice on 
 Cattle. — Cure for Wens. — Cure for 
 Bloated Cattle. — Scours — Cure for 
 Poison. — Sting of an Adder. — CoUc. 
 
 — Sprains. — Choking. — Milk Fever, 
 
 or Garget. — Drying off Cows. — A Hint. 69 
 Calves. — Cure for Insects in the Stom- 
 ach. — Scours in Calves. . . .72 
 
 Section II* — Slieep and I4ani1>s. 
 
 Core for Ticks. — Cure for Cold. — To 
 prevent taking Cold after being Shorn. 
 
 — Head-Fly. — Foot Rot. — Mouth 
 Distemper. — Scab in Sheep. — Symp- 
 toms. — Remedies. — To cure Sheep 
 Pox. — Rot in Sheep. — Reeling Sick- 
 noe.=!. — Best Remedy. — Swelled 
 Paunch. — Worms in the Head. — 
 Remedies. — Maggots in Sheep. — 
 Water in Sheep's Heads. . . .73 
 
 1* 
 
 Section III.— Diseases of Horses, 
 Colts, &c. 
 
 Cure for Bots. — Ring-bone. — Remedy. 
 — Colic. — Pole Evil and Fistula. — 
 Stifle. — Heaves. — Cough. — Sahva, 
 or Slabbering. — Swelling. — Wounds 
 and Bruises. — Lockjaw — Scratches. 
 
 — To cure a Choked Horse. — To cure 
 Sore Backs. — Inflammation of the 
 Eye — Receipt for Horse Liniment. 
 
 — Wind Galls — Hoof-bound. — 
 Strangles. — Foundered Feet — Cure. 
 
 — Blood Spavin. — Bone Spavin. — 
 Wart. — Strangury. — Thrush. — 
 Corns. 77 
 
 Section IV. — Diseases of Sfvine* 
 
 To cure the Measles — Rupture. — Cuie. 
 
 — Sore Throat. — Staggers. . . 82 
 
 Section V. — Diseases of Dogs* 
 &c. 
 
 Debility. — Inflammation of the Bowels. 
 
 — Disteniijer in Dogs. — Weak Eyes. 
 
 — Sore Ears. — Costiveness. — Colic 
 Pains. — Mange. — Worms. — Wounds. 
 
 — Hydrophobia 88 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The True Poultry- Yard : or, 
 
 Fowl-Breeder's Guide. 
 Section I. — General RemarlcSy 
 
 &'C. 
 
 Poultry -House. — Laying in Winter. — 
 Nests, &c — Summer Yards. — Spring 
 Yards. — Hen-Ladder. — Selection of 
 Stock for Breeding. — Number of Hens 
 with a Cock. — Choice of Hens for Sit- 
 ting. — Selecting Eggs for Sitting — 
 Number of Eggs for a Hen. — Best Age 
 for Sitting — Best Breed. — How to 
 keep a Good Stock — Feeding Poultry. 
 
 — Rule for Sitting Hens on Turkeys' 
 
 or Ducks' Eggs. — Poultry for Market. 84 
 
 Section II.— Origin, Varieties, 
 and Qualities of Domiestio 
 Poultry. 
 
 Dunghill or Barn-door Fowl. — Dork- 
 ing. — Cochin China. — Bolton Grays. 
 
 — Polish. — Guelderlands. — Malay 
 Fowl — Spangled Hamburg. — Span- 
 ish Fowl. — Java Fowl. — Grame FowL 
 
 — Bantam Fowl — Creeper — Jump- 
 er. — Turkish Fowl. — Columbian 
 Fowl. — Dutch Fowl — Dutch Every- 
 day Layers. — Barbary Fowl. — Rump- 
 kin Fowl. — Sus.iex Fowl. — Frizzled 
 Fowl. — Silky Fowl. — Siberian Fowl. 
 Bankiva Fowl — Negro Fowl. — Shake- 
 bag Fowl. — Guinea Hen. — Golden 
 pheasanta 87 
 
VI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Section III. — Turkeys, Geeae, 
 Ducks, Doves, ^c. 
 
 Turkeys. — General Management, &c. — 
 Qualities. — Laying — Sitting. — 
 Hatching — Treatment of the Young. 
 
 — Fattening. — Varieties. . . .92 
 Geese. — General Management. — Tou- 
 louse Goose. — Bremen Goose. — Com- 
 mon Goose — Breeding. — Laying. — 
 Sitting Goslings. — Nests and Food. 
 
 — Yards, &c 93 
 
 Ducks — Varieties. — Aylesbury White. 
 
 — Rouen Duck. — Muscovy. — Water. 
 
 — Laying. — Hatching. — Ducklings. 
 
 — Ducks' Eggs. — Ducks in Gardeiifl. 95 
 Doves. — General Ilemarka. . . .96 
 
 Section IV. — Diseases of Poul- 
 try. — Tkeir Symptoms and 
 Cure. 
 
 Asthma. — Apoplexy. — Costiveness. — 
 Consumption. — Bloody Flux.— Corns. 
 
 — Diarrhoea. — Fever. — Gout. — Indi- 
 gestion. — Moulting. — Pip. — Cure. — 
 Koup 96 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The Family Gardener. 
 
 Section I. — Management of tke 
 Kitcken Oarden. 
 
 Remarks. — Proper Situation of a Gar- 
 den. — Requisite Soils. — Manures. — 
 Kinds and Qualities 98 
 
 Section II. — Raising Garden 
 Vegetables. 
 
 Vegetable Roots. — Turnips. — Beets. — 
 Carrots. — Parsnips. — Onions. — Po- 
 tatoes. — Horseradish. — Radish. — 
 Oyster Plant 99 
 
 Vegetable Plants. — Corn. — Beans. — 
 Peas. — Squash. — Cucumbers.— Cab- 
 bages. — Asparagus. — Cauliflowers. 
 
 — Celery. — Cress. — Egg Plant. — Let- 
 tuce. — Melon. — Rhubarb. — Toma- 
 to.— Parsley 100 
 
 Section III.— Tke Herbalist: or 
 tke Culture of Culinary and 
 Mediciual Herbs. 
 
 Culinary Herbs. — Marjoram. — Thyme. 
 
 — Savory. — Sage. — Caraway. — Cori- 
 ander. 105 
 
 Medicinal Herbs. — Pennyroyal. — Cam- 
 omile. — Hyssop. — Balm. — Worm- 
 wood. — Iloarhound. — Lavender. — 
 Tansy. — Sallron 106 
 
 Section IV. — German Hot-beds 
 for Forcing Garden Vegeta- 
 bles, Ilei'bs, Flowers, &,c. 
 
 How to prepare them. — The Cost. — 
 Repairs. — Their Superiority. — Tem- 
 perature, Vapor, &o 107 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Flower-Garden. 
 
 Section I. — Tke Green-House) 
 Flowers; Skrubs ; Mode ot^ 
 Culture, di'C, 
 
 Water for Green-House Plants. —To 
 make Plants Bushy and Handsome. 
 
 — Air for Plants. — Changing to larger 
 Pots. — Geraniums raised by Cuttings 
 and Seed 107 
 
 Herbal Plants in Pots. — Five particular 
 Directions for Culture, &c. . . 108 
 
 Bulbous Flower-Roots. — Situation. — 
 Soil. — Transplanting. — Depths and 
 Distances. — Protection in the Winter. 
 
 — Bulbous Roots in Pots. . . . 109 
 Garden Flower- Plants, Shrubs, Ifc. — *\^ 
 
 Explanation. — Situation. — Soil. — 
 Sowing and Planting. — Transplant- 
 ing. — Cultivation — Weeds. — Shrub- 
 bei-y. — Cuttings. — Layers. — Gravel- 
 walks and Edgings lOO 
 
 Section II. — Green-House and 
 Parlor Plants. 
 
 Anemones. — Camellia Japonica. or Ja- 
 pan Rose. — Lilies of tlie VaiUey. — 
 WTiite Lilies. — Mignonette. — Persian 
 Iris. — Roses, Varieties, &c. — Single 
 and Double Jonquils. — Tuberoses. — ^ 
 Verbena Trifoliata HI 
 
 Section III. — Garden Flower- 
 Plants; Skrubbery* 
 
 Annuals and Perennials. — Almond.— 
 Amaranth. — Aster, China. — Box. — 
 Brier, Sweet — Carnation. — Catalpa. 
 
 — Cherry. — Chrysanthemum. — Col- 
 umbine. — Convolvulus — Crocus. — 
 DahUa. — Daisy. — Geranium. — Gold- 
 en Coreopsis. — Hollyhock. — Honey- 
 suckle. — Hyacinth — Hydrangea. — • 
 Ice Plant — Iris. — Laurel. — Lark- 
 spur. — Lilac. — Morning Bride. — 
 Mountain Ash. — Myrtle. — Nastur- 
 tium. — Passion-Flower. — Peony. — 
 Pink. — Polyanthus. — Poppy. — , 
 Roses. — Siberian Crab — Snowball- 
 Tree — Snowberry. — Spii'sea. — 
 Syringa. — Strawberry-tree — Sweet 
 Pea. — Sweet William, or Poetijc Pink. 
 —TuUps.— Smoke-Tree. — Violet. . IV 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Book of Horticulture. 
 
 Section I.— Horticultural Opem* 
 tions. 
 
 Grafting. — Stocks. — Operation of 
 Grafting. — Time of Grafting. — 
 Scions. —'Principle of Grafting. — 
 Kinds of Grafting 116 
 
 II 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 vn 
 
 Budding. — Time of Budding. — Advan- 
 tages of Budding — Inarching. — 
 Root Grafting. — Pruning Trees — 
 Pruning Stone-Fruit Trees. — Setting 
 Fruit-Trees. — Training Fruit-Trees. 
 
 — Modes of Training. — Espalier 
 Training. — New Metliod of Training 
 Apple-Treea 117 
 
 Section II. — Apple, Pear, Plum, 
 Clxerry, Peach., Ctuince, &c. 
 
 Apples. — Early Harvest. — Early Straw- 
 berry. — ^Villiams Favorite. — Graven- 
 eteiu — Porter — Baldwin. — Ladies' 
 Sweeting. — Rhode Island Greening. 
 
 — Roxbury Russet. — Also a list of 
 ten other varieties, all worthy of 
 fruit-growers. . • . . 119 
 
 Pears — Bartlett. — Beurre Bosc. — Dix. 
 
 — Fondaute de Autonine. — Gray Day- 
 enne. — Louise Bon de Jersey. — 
 Seckel. — Beurre de Aremberg. — 
 Winter NeUs. — Bell, Dearborn's Seed- 
 lings, Flemish Beauty, Vicar of Wake- 
 field, Washington, D. N B. Pear. . 120 
 
 plums. — Bleecker's Gage. — Coe's Gold- 
 en Drops. — Diapree Rouge. — Green 
 Gage. — Jefiferson. — Lawrence's Fa- 
 vorite. — Smith's Orleans. — Purple 
 Favorite 121 
 
 Cherries. — Bavimann's May. — Black 
 Tartarean. — Black Eagle. — Downer's 
 Lat«. — Down ton. — Bigarreau. — El- 
 ton. ~ May Duke 122 
 
 PmcAes. — Early York. —George the 
 Fourth. — Gross Mignonne. — Cool- 
 idge's Favorite. — Bergen's Yellow. — 
 Esurly Chelmsford. — Oldmixon Free- 
 Btone. — Large White Clingstone. . 122 
 
 The Quince. — Apple Q:uince. — Pear- 
 shaped. — Portugal Quince. — Musk 
 Quince. — Ornamental Varieties, via. 
 Chinese, Japan, Blush Japan, &c. . 123 
 
 Apricots. — Moorpark. — Breda — This 
 work also notices seven other varie- 
 ties 123 
 
 Nectarines. — Elruge. — Early Violet. — 
 Boston and Hunt's Tawney. . . 124 
 
 Section III. — Slirub and Vine 
 Fruits. 
 
 Currants. — Soil, Propagation, Culture, 
 Varieties. — Large Dutch. — AVhite 
 Dutch. — Champagne. — Early Red. — 
 isweet Red, and several other Kinds. 
 
 — Also, several Ornamental Kinds, . 124 
 Gooseberry. — Soil, Propagation, and 
 
 Culture. — Varieties. — Houghton's 
 Seedlings. — Crown Bob, — - WTiit©- 
 •mith. — Also nine other Choice Vari- 
 eties 125 
 
 Raspberry. — Soil, Propagation, and Cul- 
 ture. — Varieties. — American Black. 
 
 — American White. — Ametican Red. 
 
 — Ohio Everbearing 126 
 
 Strawberry. — SoU, Manure, Culture, 
 
 Varieties, &c. — Early Virginia. — 
 
 Hovey's Seedling. — Boston Pine. — 
 Swainstone's Seedling. . . , 126 
 Cranberry. — Soil, Locality, &c. . 127 
 
 Baroerry. — Its Cultivation, &c. . . 127 
 Blackberry. — Cult.vation and Soil. — 
 
 High Bush. — Low Bush. . . .127 
 Grape. — Propagation, &c. — Layers. — 
 Cuttings. — Pi-opagating by Cuttings. 
 — Prunings. — Summer Pruning. — 
 August Pruning. — Varieties. — Elsin- 
 burgh. — Catawba. — Isabella, &c. . 127 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 The Apiarian's Guide: 
 
 Or Practical Details on the Easy and Profit" 
 able Management of Bees. 
 
 The Queen Bee. — Drone. — Working 
 Bee. — Situation of the Hive. — Spring 
 Stock. — Fall Stock. — To obtain Good 
 Hives. — Time of Swarming. — Signs 
 of Swarming. — To prevent Swarming 
 — To save a Swarm that has settled. 
 — Food for Bees. — Winter Manage- 
 ment. — Closing the Hive, and Cover- 
 ing. — To make the Wax. — Hives. . 129 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 The Bird-Fancier's Companion : 
 
 With Plain and Simple Directions for the 
 Management of Canaries^ Native and 
 Exotic Songsters. 
 Canary Bird. — Pairing Canaries. — Sit- 
 uation of the Breeding-Cage. — Nests, 
 Boxes, &c. — Period of Sitting. — 
 Bathing-Pans. — To distinguish the 
 Male from the Female. — Moulting. — 
 Bed Mites. — Swelling of the Siomach. 
 — Egg-bound, &c. . . . .132 
 American Yellow-Bird. . . . 133 
 
 Cardinal Grosbeak 133 
 
 American Mocking-Bird. . . . 133 
 
 Skylark 134 
 
 Purple Finch, or Linnet. , . , 134 
 
 American Robin 134 
 
 English Thrush 134 
 
 Reed-Bird, or Bob-o^-link. . . .134 
 Red-Wing, or Swamp Blackbird. . 134 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Section I. 
 Fftniily Medicine^ 
 
 By which any person can doctor himself in 
 all Kinds of Sickness, in a Simple and 
 Safe Manner; comprising also the 
 
 Sailor and Emigrant's Guide, 
 both at Sea, and in Travels abroad. 
 
 Tlie Use of the Pulse 135 
 
 First Thing to be done in Sichuss, tfc. 136 
 
VIU 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Class I. — Tlie Digestive Organs. 
 
 Indigestion. — Costiveuess. — Bad Ap- 
 petite.— Heartburn. — Wind. —Colic. 
 
 — Diarrhoea — Dysentery. — Cholera. 
 — Nettle-Iiash.— Toothache. — Worms. 
 — Jaundice. — Gravel. — Piles. — Fis- 
 tula 135 
 
 Class II. — Ovga>»« of BreatlUiig. 
 
 Cold in the Head. — Cough. — Loss of 
 Voice. — Whooping-Cough. — Winter 
 Cough. — Croup. ■ — Astiima. — Con- 
 sumption 137 
 
 Class III.— Tlie Blood, or Organs 
 of Circulation. 
 
 Ferers. — Ague. — Typhus Fever. — 
 Scarlet Fever.— Small-Pox.— Erysipe- 
 las.— Measles — Influenza. — Chicken- 
 Pox. — Itch. — Pving-worm, Shingles, 
 &c. — Scald Head. — Scurvy. — Pu- 
 trid Sore Throat — Pleurisy — In- 
 flammation of the Lungs. — Inflam- 
 mation of the Stomach. — Inflamma- 
 tion of the Liver — Inflammation of 
 the Bowels — Inflammation of the 
 Urinary Oi'gans. — Rheumatism — 
 
 — Gout. — Scrofula. — Dropsy. — Wa- 
 ter in the Chest. — Water in the Head 137 
 
 Class IV. — Diseases of tiie Brain 
 
 and Serves. 
 Tic Douloureux. — Nervous Headache. 
 
 — Sick Headache. — Giddiness of the 
 Head. — Inflammation of tlie Brain. 
 
 — Lockjaw. — Hysteric Fits. — Con- •- 
 Tulsive Fits in Children. — Fainting. 
 
 — Apoplexy 139 
 
 Class V. — Common Accidents} 
 and liovv to treat tliein. 
 
 Drowning. — Hanging — Suffocation. — 
 Choking. — Exposure to Cold. — 
 Stroke of Lightning. — Drunkenness. 140 
 
 Accidents fty Poisoning. 
 
 Alkaline Poisons. — Verdigris, Lunar 
 Caustic, and Corrcsive Sublimate. — 
 Gamboge, Croton-Oil, and Cauthar- 
 ides 140 
 
 Poisons acting tlirougli tlie 
 Blood. 
 
 Arsenic. — Prussic Acid. — Hemlock, 
 Laudanum, Nightshade, and other 
 Vegetable Poisons 141 
 
 Poisons >vliicli act upon tlie 
 Kerves and Brain. 
 
 Tobacco, Alcohol, Croton-Oil, Lead, Oil 
 of Almonds, &c. . . . . . 141 
 
 Accidental Injuries to th.e Skin, 
 
 Spx-aius. — Ruptures — Dislocated 
 Limba. — Broken Bones. — Sand ox 
 
 other Substances in the Eye. — In- 
 flammation of the Eyes. — Insects and 
 other Substances in the Ear. . . 141 
 
 Section II. 
 
 The Sick Man's Doctor: or, Med- 
 icated Flannel. 
 
 Kept for many years a profound secret, and 
 finaily sold for 
 Five Hu.xdred Dollars, 
 And now offered to you for 
 Tiotnty-Jive Cents!.' 
 Saleratus Swe;it. — Jledicated Flannel. 
 — Mode of Preparing tne Flannel. — 
 Directions for Using the Flannel. — 
 Receipts for Making the Oil and Lo- 
 tion. — Rheumatic Oil. — Soothing Lo- 
 tion. 143 
 
 Section III. 
 
 Showing lio-»v to live a Hun- 
 dred Years, in good Health. 
 
 ■What is Good Health ?— Certain Condi- 
 tions Essential to Long Life. — Nine 
 Definite Rules to Prolong Life, &c. . 146 
 
 Section IV. 
 
 Effects of Arts, Trades, and > 
 Professions upon Health; 
 
 With Hints on the Select-ion o/Emplotments 
 and Situations adapted to the Constitu- 
 tions o/YouNG People. 
 Accountants, Book-keepers, and Clerks. 146 
 Architects, Civil Engineers, and Sur- 
 veyors 146 
 
 Attorneys at Law 147 
 
 Bakers 147 
 
 Bone-turners 147 
 
 Bookbinders and Pocketbook-makers, . 147 
 
 Brass-workers 147 
 
 Brewers. 147 
 
 Brushmakers 147 
 
 Bricklayers. .,,... 147 
 
 Briekm'akers 147 
 
 Butchers 147 
 
 Cabinetmakers 147 
 
 Carvers and Gilder.g 148 
 
 Cart-drivers, or Truckmen. . . 148 
 Carpenters, J oiners, >V^heelwrights, Mill- 
 wrights . 14S 
 
 Chcmifnts and Druggists. . . . 148 
 
 Clergymen 148 
 
 Clock and Watch-makeri». . . . 148 
 Coachmen, Stage-drivers, &c. . . 148 
 
 Coach-builders 148 
 
 Coffee-roasters 148 
 
 Colliers and >VeU-sinker8 . . . 148 
 Cooks and Confectioners . . . 148 
 
 Coopers 148 
 
 Coppersmiths. 149 
 
 Curriers and Leather-dressers. . . 149 
 Dressmakers, Milliners, and Straw-Bon- 
 net-iuakers. . . . . 149 
 
 m 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 IX 
 
 ^ 
 
 Dyers. ....... 149 
 
 i'ishennen .149 
 
 Glassblowers. 149 
 
 Grocers. 149 
 
 Hatters 149 
 
 Iron-founders 149 
 
 Machinists 149 
 
 Masons, or Stonecutters. . , 149 
 
 Millers 160 
 
 Physicians and Surgeons. . . . 150 
 
 Painters. 150 
 
 Paper-makers 150 
 
 Plasterers, Whitewashersj &c. . . 150 
 
 Pavers. 150 
 
 Plumbers. . . . i . . 150 
 
 Potters 150 
 
 Printers. 150 
 
 Rope-makers 150 
 
 Saddlers 150 
 
 Shoemakers. 150 
 
 Shop-keepers. 151 
 
 Smiths 151 
 
 Snuff, Tobacco, and Cigar-makers. . 151 
 
 Tailors 151 
 
 Tallow-chandlers 151 
 
 Tanners 151 
 
 Tinplate-workers 151 
 
 Wood-turners 151 
 
 Hints ou Selecting Trades, &c. , . 151 
 
 Section V. 
 
 Book of Herbs ; 
 
 "I'lieir Properties and Uses iu 
 
 Sickness explained. 
 
 Thirty Kinds described and their Medi- 
 cal Properties pointed out. . . 152 
 Measures of Medicines, Tables, &c. . 153 
 Family Medicine-Chest . . . 154 
 Twenty-five Medical Preparations, and 
 
 their Doses explained . . . 154 
 
 Five Useful ArticlciJ lo keep in a Family. 155 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Particularly Useful to tlie Apo- 
 tliecary, Pliysician, Manufac- 
 turer of Patent Medicines, 
 Perfumery, &c. 
 
 Signs used by Physicians in Writing 
 their Prescriptions. — Dictionary of 
 IMedical Terms 155 
 
 Class I -- Nine Medical Receipts for 
 making Tinctures, Liniments, Elixirs, 
 Ointments, &c. . . . 156 
 
 Class II. — Eighteen Receipts for Pre- 
 paring Patent Medicines, sucli a.? 
 PiU.H, Bittci-s, Powders, Cordials, Eye- 
 Wfiter.-f, Essences, &c. . . . 157 
 
 C'la63 III. —Twelve Receipts for mak- 
 ing Perfumery, Cosmetics, Soaps, &c., 
 Buch as Extracts, Cologne, Creams, 
 Smelling Salts, Pomatum, Tooth 
 Wash, Tooth Paste, Tooth Powders, 
 &c ,. . 159 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Bretmen's Twenty-five Ready 
 AVays to make Money ; 
 
 Being Twenty-five Ori^nal Re- 
 ceipts for making useful Arti- 
 cles vvliicli command a quick 
 sale and insure a full pocket. 
 
 Formerly sold for $ 5 ; but now included ia 
 this work, and the whole for 25 cents. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Pocket Laavyer; 
 
 Or Forms in Lia>v, correctly 
 drawn and adapted to General 
 
 Use. 
 
 Plan of Book-Keeping. ~ Day Book. — 
 Leger. — Plan of Opening Accounts 
 in each 167 
 
 ]Votes. — Ten Facts in regard to Notes 
 which all Persons should know. . 168 
 
 Form of jVotes.-OnTime —On De- 
 mand, with Interest. — On Time, with 
 Interest. — Payable by Instalments, 
 with Periodical Interest — Payable 
 in Stock, with Interest — Note by 
 Two Persons. — Note at the Bank. . 169 
 
 Receipts. —A General Form. — Re- 
 ceipt tor Money ou Account. -- Receipt 
 for Money paid ou a Note. — For Money 
 paid by another Person. — For Money 
 received for Another. — For a Quar- 
 ter's Rent 170 
 
 Orders. — An Order for Goods. — An 
 Order for Money. .... 171 
 
 Deeds, &-c. — Twelve Circumstances 
 concerning Deeds which all Persons 
 should know — Form of a Common 
 Deed — Mortgo.gc Deed. — Quitclaim 
 Deed. — AVarranty Deed. — Form of a 
 AVill. — General Form of an Agree- 
 ment — A Bill of Sale — Bonds. — 
 Form of a Simple Bond — Power 
 of Attorney. —Letter of Credit. — 
 Simple Form of Lease. — Landlord's 
 Lease. — Tenant's Agreement. — Sure- 
 ty. — Assignment Of a Lease — Notice 
 to a Tenant to quit. — Agreement of 
 Copartnership. .... 175 
 
 Legal Relation of Husband 
 and Wife ; showing the Rights of 
 Married Women in Regard to Holding 
 Property. — Eighteen Important Facts 
 wiiich ail should know . . . 180 
 
 Mode of Procuring Patents 
 in tlie United States. — The 
 Details explained. — Caveats. — Mod- 
 els. — Drawings. — Specifications and 
 Claim. — Extension of Patents. — Ad- 
 ditional Improvements. . . . 181 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 Chairman's Directory: 
 
 Or Guide to tlie Rules of Public 
 Dclbate* 
 
 Choice of a Chairmdn. — Six Rules. . 184 
 The Rights and Duties of the Chair- 
 man. — Fifteen Parliamentary Rules. 184 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 The Ladies' Mirror of Cook- 
 
 Witb. Full Detailg of tKe Whole 
 Art, Simplified. 
 
 Carving. — Three Ru'es. . . . 185 
 Cooking Meats. — Roast Beef. — Boiled 
 Beef. — Beefsteak. — Roast Pork. — 
 Pork Steaks. — Broiled Hain. — Sau- 
 sages. — » Roast Mutton. — Roast Veal. 
 
 — Boiling. — Eggs 186 
 
 poultry. — Turkey. — Boiled Turkey. — 
 Roast Ducks and Geese. — Roast 
 Chicken. — Boiled Chicken. — Broiled 
 Chicken. — Boiled Pigeons. . . 185 
 
 Gravies 186 
 
 Soups. — Beef Soup. — Oyster Soup. . 186 
 Fish. —Boiled Fish. ~ Halibut. — Pan 
 
 Fish 186 
 
 Vegetables 186 
 
 Fruits, Jellies.) Preserves, (fc. — Strong 
 Apple-Sauce. — Boiled Pears and Ap- 
 ples — Raspberry Jam. — Cranberry 
 Jelly. — Preserved Citron. . . 187 
 
 Bisouits. — Soda Biscuit. . . . 187 
 
 Good Brown Bread 187 
 
 Indian Cake 187 
 
 Bakers'' Gingerbread 187 
 
 Two Rules for Sauces and Cream. . 188 
 Puddings. — Baked Indian Pudding. — 
 Plum Pudding Baked. —Custard Pud- 
 ding Baked. — Tapioca Pudding. — M. 
 Baked Rice Pudding. — Bread Pud- ^ 
 ding — Batter Pudding. . . , 188 
 Four Rules in Making Cakes. . . 188 
 Cakes. — Wedding Cake. — Ichig for 
 Cakes. — Pound Cake. — Loaf Cake. 
 Sponge Cake. — Election Cake. . . 189 
 Pies. — Mince Pies. — Apple Pies. — Cus- 
 tard Pies. — Cranberry Tarta. — 
 
 Squash Pies 189 
 
 Pickles and Catchups. — To Pickle Veg- 
 etables. — Tomato Picikles. — Peppers. 
 
 — Tomato Catchup 190 
 
 Yeasts. — Potato Yeaat. — Hop Yeast. 190 
 Refreshing Drink for the Sick. , • 190 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 The Lady's Looking-Glass OF 
 Fashion and Politeness. 
 
 Nine Rules of Politeness. . . , 191 
 Models of Invitation Cards and Notes. 191 
 How to Address a Lady. . . . 191 
 Ten Rules to be Observed in Converaa- J 
 
 tion :i^ 
 
 Styles of Dress best suited to Different ^'"^ 
 Complexions. — The Hat. — Dress. — 
 Flounces. — Tucks. — High-neck ' 
 
 Dresses. — Evening Dresses. — Shorfc 
 Cloaks. . . . . ._ .1931,1 
 
 Various Styles of Dressing ike Hair. — 
 The Hair. — Caps. . . .19ii| 
 
 Style of Dress suited to a Gentleman. 194 i ! 
 Three Rules, ifc IM U 
 
.mM: