Give the Grape MIts Rightful Food Phxce By C. Houston Goudiss Class TXXSIS. Copyright N?__ copflyGirr DEPosm Give the Grape Its Rightful Food Place Put This Valuable Fruit Where It Belongs in the Homes of the Nation By C. HOUSTON GOUDISS Food Advisor of The People's Home Journal; Author of "Foods that Will Win the War" and "Making the Most of Our Meat Supply"; Food Economist of national reputation. El PRIVATELY PRINTED BY THE PEOPLE'S HOME JOURNAL NEW YORK COPYRIGHT, 1921 F. M, LUPTON, PUBLISHER NEW YORK mk Hm2 g)ClA654918 'U© Foj ORTUNATELY for man, the grape, despite the fact that nation-wide prohibition has deprived it of what formerly was looked upon as its chief pur- pose in life, now comes into its proper place as one of the best of food friends, without guile and above reproach. And this in a country where grapes have grown since the memory of man runneth not to the contrary, and where, of later years, their widespread intensive cultivation has constituted an industry of vast proportions; where the grape, long misunder- stood by temperance enthusiasts, may at last stand vindicated on its own merits. Long years before Christopher Columbus gazed in wonder at the dim light which yet was to glow into a flaming torch of freedom, the hardy Norse- men who had braved the wild Atlantic and become more or less familiar with these shores, called this country Vineland, because of the great abundance of wild grapes they found here. Nearly a hundred years after the first sighting of that prophetic light on what now is known as Wat- ling's Island, an intrepid Englishman by the name GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE of Sir Walter Raleigh — who was to walk to fame on a cloak gallantly spread to save a great queen's dainty shoes from a mud-puddle — carried back with him from an expedition to the Carolinas the news that grapes of several different varieties grew to marvelous goodness in this new land. So it is reason- able to assume the fruit of the vine was ripening here even when the ancient Phoenicians introduced its prolific roots into Southern France some six hundred years prior to the Christian era. All of which must impress the reader with deep consciousness of the fact that if he or she were a grape grower in the United States today, he or she might be pardoned for a certain measure of dismay over the prospect for the immediate future. But the lexicon of nature admits no such word as dismay. The industrious old lady who works so many differ- ent kinds of magic with sun, shower and soil is not to be discouraged by a Volstead act. She will go on producing these luscious globules of health-giving goodness — and at heart she is glad their power for harm has been thus curtailed. She will smile as she always does, no matter how many obstacles are placed in her path, and say to man, with a larger measure of wisdom than he may at first appreciate, "Now eat, in its virgin goodness, what you used to drink in its fermented state, and come into a new knowledge of the goodness of the grape." 4 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE , The Grape's New Role It is a fact that habit can become a great bhnder, and the cumulative drinking habits of thousands of years restricted the grape to one particular role in the estimation of a large number of Americans — which also is true of a far larger number of Euro- peans. It is also a fact, amply proved in the case of the tomato, that a change of habit often brings to pass untold benefits. The "poisonous" love apple which our grandmothers planted in their flower gardens, and which we now consume at the rate of millions of bushels annually as the palatable, nutritious tomato, may have a parallel in the grape. Both have tonic qualities for the human system that cannot be lightly rated, and especially is the juice of the grape suitable for use as a base for cooling and refreshing beverages to be served in place of fermented liquors. Of course, for quite a few years the tempting clusters of varied color have been served in increas- ing measure in the fruit dishes on our tables. Far the greater part of the nation's grape crop, however, went into the wine vat. Some idea of the extent of this phase of our great industry may be gained from the fact that in California alone are 250,000 acres of grape vines which, prior to the ratification of the prohibition amendment, represented an investment of more than $100,000,000. What a curious thing it would be if the new order should increase rather than decrease the value of these and similar acres in New York, Ohio, Penn- GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE sylvania, New Jersey, Virginia, Missouri, Michigan and Wisconsin! Fate has turned stranger tricks, and it is entirely within the realm of possibility — I am willing to say probability — that when the food and health value of grapes becomes widely known and appreciated, none will be found to complain of the "scuttling" of this industry. When we become thoroughly acquainted with this old friend in its new guise ; when we have tested the grape as a fruit-food rather than a vintage — we will use it more than ever, and give thanks in a new way to Emma Willard, William J. Bryan, Billy Sunday and others of that group who paved the way to the present state of affairs in this field. The Food Worth of the Grape The first consideration in food is flavor, and in this the grape is so rich that it never fails to please the palate and thus call into activity the necessary digestive juices of the stomach. Like nearly all fruits, it contains a large percent- age of water, a valuable food factor, since two-thirds of the human body is water. This water is highly sweetened with one of the most healthful forms of sugar and sugar is the most highly concentrated form of fuel-food for the generation of heat and energy in the body. The grape contains from thir- teen to twenty-five per cent grape sugar, and in addition to water and sugar is composed of tartaric acid, sodium, potash, magnesium and iron. Grape sugar, or dextrose, is the sweetest of all GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE sugars, and its nature is such as to make it available for persons suffering from those diseases which are intensified by even a moderate consumption of ordi- nary sweets. Partly because of this and largely be- cause of the mineral salts it contains, the grape as a food IS destined to play a high part in the conserva- tion of health. It is known to be really beneficial in the treatment of certain forms of dysentery, diar- rhea, and involvements of the spleen and the portal system, while the so-called grape cure is said to have effected improvement in cases of tuberculosis, gout and some skin diseases. The tartaric acid in the grape not only improves its flavor but also acts as a condiment, and when di- gested produces a certain amount of heat, thus hav- ing food value as well as condimental worth. It also performs the useful service of carrying into the body the sodium and potash with which it is combined. Magnesiimi is a necessary mineral factor in the building of bone and teeth. It enters directly into the cell tissues of the body, and in addition to its function as an upbuilder of bony structures, helps to keep the hair in good condition and prompts the growth and luxuriance of this prime adjunct to beauty and good looks. A Fruit-Mine of Iron Far the most valuable food feature of this de- lightful fruit is its large content of iron in a form more easily assimilated by the human system than is elsewhere found in nature. GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE The grape actually is heavy with iron, and in order to appreciate the full meaning of this fact one must remember that man not only needs but demands a constant supply of this mineral. Although the normal body content of iron is small — the total amount in a man of average size is esti- mated at about forty-six grains — it is a fact that even a small reduction of this apparently infini- tesimal total is one of the surest causes of ill health. And since one-sixth of a grain of iron is daily lost to the body through the normal excretions, there is need for constant replenishment of this supply. Whoever fails to provide for such replenishment is tempting the terrible curse of anemia, and who- ever has observed or suffered the utter routing of strength, vitality and good looks by this foe of "poor blood" need not be told a second time to make generous use of grapes in the diet whenever they can be obtained. The iron in the body is found exclusively in so- called organic combinations, and in order to be of use to the human system must be got through the foods we eat. None of these is so rich in this vitally necessary element as grapes, and while the average person long has known that the dried grape or raisin is a notable iron food, few ever have stopped to think of the ripe grape itself as an equally good provider of this mineral. Such is the case, however, and it may be safely said that grapes as an iron food are just as important as raisins. It is iron that makes for red blood and in nine 8 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE ^ cases out of ten it is lack of iron that pales the cheeks and takes the pep out of life. Neither vegetable nor animal life could exist without it. Time was when • we believed that iron could be bought in bottles, but science has proven that chemical compounds do not supply this valuable mineral as it is found in food. The actual food-fuel value per pound of ordinary grapes in the ripe raw state is about 425 calories somewhat in excess of that of the apple— but the food value of this fruit, like that of any other, is not to be thus measured. Its sugar content gives it a fair sustaining power, but of more importance is the delicious flavor, which calls the necessary digestive juices into action, and the mineral salts. The grape is not as rich in food value as corn, potatoes or bacon. Judged solely by its content of calories (heat energy units) it might never have been looked upon with favor. Judged by the same standard, lettuce and tomatoes would be thrown out of the kitchen door as practically useless, although science and experience has proved them to be among the most useful foods we can eat. What is the Grape Cure? The so-called grape cure, which for many years has been popular in some parts of Europe, and which later spread to California, is a method of treating some diseases and conditions with a diet in which grapes predominate. At first the cure consisted of an exclusive diet of grapes, but it was found that a 9 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE combination of grapes with other foods produced more desirable results. The modified procedure which grew out of this experiment now calls for some two pounds of grapes daily at first — a half pound on waking, another at eleven a.m., another at five, p.m., and still another at bedtime. This may be gradually increased to four or even five pounds a day, and in many cases it has proved highly beneficial. "But wouldn't it be dangerous to swallow so many grape seeds?" asks the reader. This question brings us to one of the most inter- esting phases of any consideration of grapes as food. Do Not Fear Grape Seeds The old and somewhat common fear that the seeds of grapes and other small fruits will cause appendicitis has been so thoroughly undermined by scientific observation that there is nothing to be dreaded on this score. There have been cases of appendicitis when a grape or other small seed was discovered in the diseased appendix upon operation. Such cases, however, have been rare indeed and the presence of the seeds is now explained as an incident rather than a cause. Some persons are so constituted as to be singularly sensitive to the presence in the intestines of any factor which may give rise to irri- tation, but then some persons are poisoned by milk, and the seeds of fruit cannot be singled out for blame in this matter. If one persists in clinging to this foolish fear, the 10 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE seeds of the fruit can be ejected before the pulp is swallowed. The wiser plan, however, is to chew skin, seed and pulp and thus secure the full mineral value of this fruit-food and if such a course is followed the laxative value of the grape is largely enhanced, as skin and seeds act as bulk or roughage in creating activity of the colon. Far better and more wise is it for the average person to forget the fact that grape seeds have been occasional offenders and to make larger use of this most delicious fruit in the daily diet. Decline to swallow the seeds if you choose, but don't let such little things stand in the way of the great health and strength advantages which the grape provides. Here is a most delicious fruit which possesses the rare peculiarity of being able to withstand drought and which grows in profusion even when given little care; a fruit which abounds in many varieties and which, when taken advantage of in its different sea- sonal forms, can be made almost a seven-month friend. Squeeze out its juice and sterilize it and you have one of the most delicious of beverages, fit for a king. The Wholesomeness of Grape Juice The American people already have evidenced their appreciation of unfermented grape juice, for within a few years this has become one of the great fruit industries of the nation. Millions of bottles of the fragrant, tempting liquid flow annually in a steady stream into the homes of the land, carrying 11 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE with them the concentrated goodness of the grape. You can make grape juice in your home if you choose, or you can buy any one of a number of excel- lent brands, and it is a beverage worth keeping on tap at all times. It is one of the most refreshing of drinks, and can be used in any number of ways, either pure or diluted with iced water, or in combination with other bever- ages. One combination which has gained wide favor is grape juice and ginger ale, about equal parts. For picnics, parties and general home use, grape juice is admirable, and the distribution of the commercial article is so widespread that one seldom is out of reach of it. It not only has palate charm, but is rich in food value, and possesses acid properties which make it all the more healthful. For invalids and in cookery it is invaluable. Grapes should never be eaten until thoroughly ripe, but when in such condition may be partaken in large quantities without in any way endangering digestion, so far as the average person is concerned. They are always more appetizing when served cool or cold. This end may be attained by keeping them in the refrigerator or serving them in a bed of crushed ice. Now that the grape has been outlawed as a source of wine and brandy, it would be well for growers to pay more attention to the manner of its packing and the method of its distribution. Certain varieties will keep well for several days in the markets, and it 12 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE would seem the part of wisdom to make wider use of larger-size baskets in packing such varieties. There was a time when the eight- and ten-pound baskets were most popular, but of late there has been a tendency to reduce the size until now the three- pound basket, which represents a great waste of wood and labor, seems to be the favorite. Such wastage of material and labor naturally adds unduly to the cost of the fruit, and the grape is so good for us that every effort should be made to place it within easy reach of the average table. And it would be well for the growers to make an effort to improve the flavor of American grapes, especially as the grape must stand on the merit of flavor in order to become a popular food. As flavor is the force that calls into activity the digestive juices of the stomach and the value of what we eat is dependent first upon the measure in which our food is assimilated, the flavor of the grape becomes an important commercial attribute. As one leading food authority has pointed out, if the American public fully realized the dietetic or digestive value of refined flavor in grapes as in other foods, a more determined effort would be made to bring about a larger acreage of Worden and Delaware, Niagara and Eclipse, Brighton and Diamond and Muscatel and other aromatic and exhilarating table grapes. At the present time the Concord is most popular with the grape raisers, but it is not a good table grape and the bulk of the crop is used for manufac- turing grape juice. 13 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE We have in the grape a food situation without precedent — vast production ah*eady assured and the former chief outlet closed. Of course, there is only one logical course to pursue, and that is to make use of this delicious fruit in every way we can. Its worth is inestimable as a first-aid to health and palate pleasure. The very minerals it contains are so essential to the life and health of the body that if they were to be taken away, disease, disintegration and death would follow. As a matter of fact, "min- eral starvation" is often the primary cause of disease. In the grape we have a perfect and most palatable bullet — grape shot ! — with which to defend ourselves against this insidious foe. 14 RECIPES Grape Juice Remove grapes from stems, wash and place in a large kettle. Crush with a fruit press or potato masher and heat slowly to the boiling point. Strain through cheesecloth and sweeten the juice to taste — one-half cupful of sugar to one quart of juice is usually enough. Re- heat tcr the boiling point, pour into sterilized jars, and seal at once. Dilute before using. Concord or Catawba grapes may be used in this recipe. Grape Marmalade This may be made from the pulp left after making grape juice. Put the pulp in a saucepan and add enough water to moisten it. Heat to the boiling point and then rub through a coarse strainer. Measure the fruit and add one cupful of sugar for every two cupfuls of fruit. Mix and boil about thirty minutes or until the mixture jellies from the spoon. Stir to prevent scorching. Pour into small hot jelly jars and when cold and firm, cover with melted paraflSne. Grape Preserve Cut Tokay grapes in half, remove seeds and put in a deep sauce- pan. Add one cupful of water and one orange cut in very thin slices to every four cupfuls of grapes. Heat slowly to the boiling point, boil five minutes, skimming off all the scum that forms. Then measure the fruit, add an equal amount of sugar and boil until the syrup jellies as^it drops from the spoon. The grapes should keep their shape. Pour into sterilized jars and seal when cool. Grape Punch Boil one cupful of sugar with one quart of water for ten minutes. Cool and add one quart of grape juice, juice of two oranges and two lemons, one cupful of finely cut oranges and one cupful of grated pineapple. Serve with cracked ice or in a punch bowl with a block of ice. Sugar syrup made in quantity is convenient for use in summer beverages because it dissolves more readily than sugar in cold drinks. Grape Cup Mix two cupfuls of grape juice with two whole cloves, one-third cupful of sugar, juice of two oranges, one teaspoonful of grated orange rind and four mint or lemon verbena leaves. Let stand for three or four hours to ripen. Then strain and stir in one cupful of grape juice, stiffly beaten white of one egg and one cupful of cold water. Serve in tall glasses one-third full of finely cracked ice and decorate with a thin slice of orange, a small sprig of mint or a strip of orange peel. 15 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE Grape Sherbet Soak one teaspoonful of gelatine in one tablespoonful of cold water for five minutes. Dissolve in one and one-half cupfuls of boil- ing water and add one cupful of sugar, one cupful of grape juice and one-fourth cupful of lemon juice. Freeze, using two parts of finely cracked ice to one part of rock salt. Grape Cocktail Cut in half and remove seeds from enough California grapes to make two cupfuls. Mix carefully with one cupful of oranges cut in dice, one teaspoonful of lemon juice and one tablespoonful of pow- dered sugar. Let stand one-half hour to chill and ripen and serve in sherbet cups, with one teaspoonful of crushed ice in each cup. Grape Juice Salad Soak two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in one-fourth cupful of cold water. Dissolve in two and one-half cupfuls of hot grape juice and add one-half cupful of sugar. Stir imtil sugar dissolves, then cool until beginning to set. Pour a thin layer of the jelly into a wet mold and add one cupful of oranges, cut in small pieces, cover with a layer of jelly, add one cupful of Malaga or California grapes cut in half and seeded and then cover with the rest of the jelly. Chill, turn out and serve with cream mayonnaise. Garnish with cream cheese balls and Malaga or California grapes. Malaga Salad Cut in half and remove seeds from enough Malaga grapes to make two cupfuls. Peel two tangerines and separate into sections, removing the seeds. Mash one cream cheese and mix with one-fourth cupful of finely chopped nuts. Shape into small balls and sprinkle with paprika. Arrange lettuce on plates for individual service. Allow for each service four to six sections of tangerine, three cheese balls and about three tablespoonfuls of grapes. Pour French fruit dressing over the salads before serving. Grape Whip Soak two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in one-half cupful of cold water for five minutes. Stir into one and one-half cupfuls of boiling water and add three-fourths cupful of sugar. Stir until gelatine is dissolved and then add two cupfuls of grape juice and juice of one lemon. Cool until beginning to set, then beat with an egg beater until stiff enough to hold its shape. Pour into a wet mold and chill. Turn out and serve with whipped cream or a custard sauce. Garnish with halved Malaga grapes or candied violets. 16 GIVE GRAPE ITS RIGHTFUL FOOD PLACE Grape Sponge ■Mix one cupful of grape juice with one cupful of boiling water and heat to the boiling point. Stir in one-half cupful of granulated t*apioca and cook, stirring constantly until the tapioca is clear. Add juice of one lemon and two tablespoonfuls of orange juice and beat in' the stiffly beaten white of one egg. Cool and fold in the whip from one-half cupful of cream or evaporated milk. Chill and serve in sherbet cups. Grape Tarts Cover inverted tart pans with rich pastry and bake in a hot oven until a golden brown. Cool, fill with grape marmalade and cover with meringue. Brown in a slow oven. Or line the tart pans with pastry, bake five minutes, fill two-thirds full of marmalade, cover with criss-cross strips of crust and finish baking in a hot oven. These tarts may be eaten hot or cold. They are a delicious luncheon dessert when game is served, as the grape flavor makes a spicy relish. Chocolate Dipped Grape?* stem large, perfect Malaga grapes and wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Dip each grape in melted fondant and set aside to harden. Melt sweetened cooking chocolate over hot water, then cool until it begins to thicken again. Dip each grape in the chocolate and place on waxed paper to harden. If the chocolate gets too stiff to cover the grapes stand it over hot water for a few seconds. If the choco- late is not stiff enough it will run off the fondant. Be careful not to get a single drop of water in the chocolate or it will be spoiled for dipping. Grape Sandwiches Cut enough white grapes in half to make one cupful. Remove seeds and skin if very tough. Mix with one-half cupful of finely cut tart apple and one-fourth cupful of finely chopped pecan nuts. Add enough mayonnaise to moisten and spread between thin buttered slices of white or graham bread. Serve as soon as possible after making. Spiced Grapes Remove stems from seven pounds of grapes. Wash grapes and mash slightly. Heat slowly to the boiling point and simmer until the seeds loosen. Then rub through a coarse strainer and add two cupfuls of vinegar, four pounds of sugar, one tablqspoonful each of cinna- mon and cloves and one teaspoonful of allspice. Boil all together slowly for two hours or until thick as marmalade. Pour into jelly glasses. 17 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 487 268 A # ^