» f Robtv^9>DV>. Alfred LIFE m OALIFOMIA: DURING A RESIDENCE OF SEVERAL YEARS LN THAT TERRITORY, COMPRISING A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY AND THE MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENTS, WITH INCIDENTS, OBSERVATIONS, ETC., ETC. ! \ ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. BY AN AMERICAN. TO WHICH IS ANNEXED A HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE ORIGIN, CUSTOMS, AND TRADITIONS, OF THE INDIANS OF ALTA-CALIFORNIA. TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL SPANISH MANUSCRIPT. NEW YORK: PUBLISHED BY WILEY & PUTNAM, No. 161 BROADWAY. 1846. " " 6. IX J^i <3^ • w 1^^ LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 25 by a long corridor, supported by thirty-two arches, orna- mented with latticed raihngs, which, together with the fine appearance of the church on tiie right, presents an attractive view to the traveller ; the interior is divided into apartments for the missionary and mayordomos, store-rooms, workshops, hospitals, rooms for unmarried males and females, while near at hand is a range of buildings tenanted by the families of the superintendents. There is also a guard-house, where were stationed some ten or a dozen soldiers, and in the rear spacious grana- ries stored with an abundance of wheat, corn, beans, peas, &c. ; also large enclosures for wagons, carts, and the implements of agriculture. In the interior of the square might be seen the various trades at work, presenting a scene not dissimilar to some of the working departments of our state prisons. Adjoining are two large gardens, which supply the table with fruit and vegetables, and two or three large " ranchos''' or farms are situated from five to eight leagues distant, where the Indians are em- ployed in cultivation and domesticating cattle. The church is a large, stone edifice, whose exterior is not without some considerable ornament and tasteful finish ; but the interior is richer, and the walls are adorn- ed with a variety of pictures of saints and Scripture sub- jects, glaringly colored, and attractive to the eye. Around the altar are many images of the saints, and the tall and massive candelabras, lighted during mass, throw an im- posing light upon the whole. / Mass is offered daily, and the greater portion of the In^ 4 26 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. dians attend ; but it is not unusual to see numbers of them driven along by alcaldes, and under the whip's lash forced to the very doors of the sanctuary. The men are placed generally upon the left, and the females occupy the right of the church, so that a passage way or aisle is formed between them from the principal entrance to the altar, where zealous officials are stationed to enforce si- lence and attention. At evening again, " El Rosario" is prayed, and a second time all assemble to participate in supplication to the Virgin. The condition of these Indians is miserable indeed ; and it is not to be wondered at that many attempt to escape from the severity of the religious discipline at the Mission. They are pursued, and generally taken ; when they are flogged, and an iron clog is fastened to their legs, serving as additional punishment, and a warning to others. Remaming here but a few days, Ave then continued our journey towards the mission of St. Juan Capistrano, distant about ten leagues. After taking leave of our hospitable friend, w^e mounted our horses and rode on without meeting any place worthy of notice till we came to the " Rancho de las Flores," one of the cattle estab- lishments of San Luis. It is situated on an eminence commanding a view of the sea, with the distant islands St. Clemente and Catalina, and overlooking an adja- cent level, extending for miles around, covered with thousands of animals grazing. A few inferior gardens are scattered about in the little valleys, cultivated by LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 27 the Indians, for their own personal benefit, and in which they are permitted to labor when not required to give their time to the interests of the Mission. Not many leagues further brought us to a beautiful spot in the centre of an opening in the highlands, ex- tending from the beach to the distant mountains. A small river flowed down the glen toward the sea, but the constant action of the surf upon the sand had dammed up its mouth and formed it into a lake. We halted on its margin to partake of the liberal provision supplied us by the father Antonio, and then continued our course along the hard and sandy beach to the Mis- sion. At length we reached an opening between the hills, through which we caught a first glimpse of the establishment ; and pushing our horses to a smart gallop, we soon arrived at its entrance. Several strag- ghng Indian boys were seen about the gates, and two or three approached as we alighted ; they said nothing, but stood gazing at the great staring eyes of friend G , which were considerably magnified through the spectacles he wore, till at last a sudden light seem- ed to break upon their dull comprehensions, and, with a cry of " Cuatro ojos," " cuatro ojos," (four eyes,) they darted away. This soubriquet we instantly adopted, and G was ever known throughout the whole coast by the nickname of " cuatro ojos." A corpulent old man received us at the door, who bade us welcome, and appeared delighted to see my companion, with whom he had formed an acquaintance 28 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. in former years. It was the superintendent of the Mission, who, superannuated as he seemed, yet from long experience in the situation, was still capable of fulfilling the duties of his office ; he gave us a room within the square, where we proceeded to take posses- sion, and found the furniture, like the building, fast tumbling to decay. Two aged missionary friars resided here, but one alone attended to the temporal concerns of the Mission ; this was Padre Geronimo Boscana ; the other. Padre Jose Maria Zalveder, though at this time secluded, and apparently Aveak in mind, once took an active and laborious part in the management of the Missions. ,^This establishment was founded in the year 1776, and, though in early years the largest in the country, yet is now in a dilapidated state, and the In- dians are much neglected. There yet remain the ruins of an immense church, which was destroj^ed by an earthquake in 1812, when many Indians Avere buried in its fall. It still bears the appearance of hav- ing been one of the best finished structures of the country, and the workmanship displayed in the sculp- ture upon its walls and its vaulted roof would com- mand admiration in our own country. The arrangement of the mission of St. Juan is sim- - ilar to that of St. Luis ; in fact, all these establishments are formed upon the same plan, and much resemble each other, varying only in their extent and population. In many of the villages the residences consist of straw huts of an oval form, which, when decayed, the Indi- LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 29 ans set on fire and erect new ones — here, however, they are built of unburnt brick, tiled and whitewashed, forming five or six blocks, or streets, which present a neat and comfortable appearance. ^ It was not until evening (supper time) that we saw the padres, who were- then seated at the table, uncon- scious of our approach till announced by the old mayor- domo. Immediately they arose, embraced us, and wel- comed us to their hospitable board. During the meal our conversation turned on the political state of Europe, in regard to which they seemed to be very well inform- ed, and they found an absorbing topic in the prospect of Spanish influence in Mexico. The following morning we started for St. Gabriel, distant twenty leagues. As we proceeded, our course was through a long and narrow defile between the hills, having before us the high snow-capped mountains of St. Juan, till at length we left them on our right, and a short gallop soon brought us to an extensive plain. The road was level, and " Chulo," elated with the pros- pect of soon reaching the habitation of his " ladye- love," resumed his whistling and shouting ; *and dashing forward among the animals, drove (liem fu- riously along the track. We followed swiftly in his rear, our horses being unwilling to be left behind, and a few hours brought us to the farm or rancho de St. Ana. The proprietor, " Don Tomas Yorba," a tall, lean per- sonage, dressed in all the extravagance of his country's 30 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. costume, received us at the door of his house. He came towards us, embraced G. and liis compadre Don Manuel, took me cordially by the hand, and invited us to enter. Arrangements were soon made for dinner, which, not- withstanding the haste with which it was served, did much credit to the provider, as did our appetites to its excellent quaUties. Don Tomas and friend G. then commencing a busi- ness conversation, I got up from the table and retreated to the corridor, where I could study, unobserved, the char- acter and appearance of our host. Upon his head he wore a black silk handkerchief, the four corners of which hung down his neck behind. An embroidered shirt, a cravat of white jaconet tastefully tied, a blue damask vest, short clothes of crimson velvet, a bright green cloth jacket, with large silver buttons, and shoes of embroidered deer skin, comprised his dress. I was afterwards inform- ed by Don Manuel, that on some occasions, such as some particular feast day or festival, his entire display often exceeded in value a thousand dollars. The day was wearing apace, so we hastened our de- parture, and mounted again for the journey. Don Tomas had prepared to accompany us to a river that crossed our route, which at some seasons of the year proved danger- ous to travellers unacquainted with the pass. This was a thoughtful precaution on his part, and received from us due acknowledgment. We rode along slowly through the sandy soil, till at length we saw the rapid stream, LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 31 which, by our friend's guidance, was easily forded, and he bade us farewell. The journey continued across a plain, where thousands of cattle were grazing ; and immense herds of wild hor- ses, which fled swiftly to the mountains on our approach. We soon reached the river of St. Gabriel, and having forded this stream, Don Manuel, who had accompanied us thus far from St. Diego, left us to pursue our journey alone to the Mission, which was now just in sight, whilst he proceeded for " El Pueblo de los Angeles," where his wife's family resided, and where he had for some time past made his permanent home. It was Saturday evening, and as we approached the buildings of the Mission, the chapel bells tolled the hour for prayer. Hundreds of Indians were kneeling upon the ground, and as the tolling ceased, they slowly rose to retire, and a merry peal announced the coming of the Sabbath. The director of St. Gabriel was father Jose Sanches, who for many years had controlled the establishment, which, through his management, had advanced to its present flourishing condition. Possessing a kind, gener- ous, and Uvely disposition, he had acquired, in conse- quence, a multitude of friends, who constantly flocked around him ; whilst through his liberality the needy wanderer, of whatever nation or creed, found a home and protection in the Mission. In the morning, at six o'clock, we went to the church, where the priest had already commenced the service of the mass. The imposing ceremony, glittering orna- 32 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. ments, and illuminated walls, were well adapted to cap- tivate the simple mind of the Indian, and I could not but admire the apparent devotion of the multitude, who seem- ed absorbed, heart and soul, in the scene before them. The solemn music of the mass was well selected, and the Indian voices accorded harmoniously with the flutes and violins that accompanied them. On retiring from the church, the musicians stationed themselves at a private door of the building, whence issued the reverend father, whom they escorted with music to his quarters ; there they remained for a half hour, performing waltzes and marches, until some trifling present was distributed among them, when they retired to their homes. xA.s is usual on all their " dias de fiesta," the remain- ing part of the Sabbath is devoted to amusements, and the Indian generally resorts to gambling, in which he indulges to the most criminal excess, frequently losing all he possesses in the world — his clothes — beads, baubles of all kinds, and even his wife and children ! We saw them thus engaged, scattered in groups about the Mis- sion, while at a little distance quite an exciting horse race was going on ; the Indians betting as wildly on their favorite animals as upon the games of chance, which found so many devotees. ^ There are several extensive gardens attached to this Mission, where may be found oranges, citrons, limes, ap- ples, pears, peaches, pomegranates, figs, and grapes in abundance. From the latter they make yearly from four to six hundred barrels of wine, and two hundred of LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 33 brandy ; the sale of whicli produces an income of more than twelve thousand dollars. The storehouses and granaries are kept well supplied, and the corridor in the square is usually heaped up with piles of hides and tal- low. Besides the resources of the vineyard, the Mission derives considerable revenue from the sale of grain ; and the weekly slaughter of cattle produces a sufficient sum for clothing and supporting the Indians. The two ^'' i^andios'^ of St. Bernadino and Sta. Anita are included in the possessions of the Mission ; the former of these has been assigned by the padres for the sole purpose of domesticating cattle, and is located some leagues distant, in a secluded valley among the moun- tains ; the latter is for cultivation, and is one of the fairy spots to be met with so often in California. On the declivity of a hill is erected a moUno, or grist-mill, sur- rounded with fruit trees and flowers. A beautiful lake lies calm and unruffled in front, and all around fresh streams are gushing from the earth, and scattering their waters in every direction. It would be a magnificent spot for a summer retreat, and much reminded me of many of the beautiful locations to be met with in the vicinity of Boston. The Mission of St. Gabriel was founded in the year 1771, and its population, including the two ranchos be- fore mentioned, now numbered from twelve to fifteen hundred. It was thought at one time to possess from eighty to over a hundred thousand head of cattle, besides horses, mules, and sheep, and countless numbers which 34 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. run at large. No advantage is derived from them be- yond the value of their hides and tallow, and thus thou- sands of dollars are yearly left to perish on the field. ^ While here, I met with a Yankee from the interior of New England, who had been a resident in the country for many years, and who had become, in manner and appearance, a complete Californian. One peculiarity, however, he retained — the spirit of trade, which had lost none of its original power, and to which I owed thus early my acquaintance with him. He was married, and living in Santa Barbara, where he was engaged in business in a small way, and learning that we were on our route up the coast, he had come all the way to meet us, in order to gain some trifling advantage over his com- petitors in trade. Our next destination, after concluding our business with father Sanches, was St. Fernando, situated only about eight leagues further up the coast. We accord- ingly set out, on being rejoined by Don Manuel and hi? " Sancho Panza," who once more took the lead, and we followed close in his rear. Our horses were in fine con- dition, and we arrived at the Mission in little more than three hours. The road generally was good, and the scenery for the first few leagues was a continuation of the beautiful grounds of Sta. Anita, with a fine view, on the right, of one of the ridges of the lofty Andes. St. Fernando was founded in the year 1797, and at this time was governed by the reverend father Fran- cisco Ybarra ; a short, thick, ugly-looking old man, LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 35 whose looks did not belie his character. In his own opinion no one knew so much as himself; nothing was so good as that whicli he possessed ; and, being at the head of his establishment, no one ever presum- ed to call his sentiments into question. The niggardly administration of this place, compared with the lib- erahty and profusion of the other missions we had visited, presented a complete contrast ; and the mean- ness and unpopularity of our host had gained for him the nickname of "cochino" or "hog." At supper I was amused at the economy displayed in the arrange- ment of his table, which seemed perfectly in accord- ance with the narrowness of his mind. A door, hing- ed at tlie bottom, which served to close a recess in the wall, used as a cupboard, was let down upon the occa- sion ; and on this was placed our repast. The di- mensions were only sufficient to admit of four persons comfortably seated ; and, when the number was larger, to accommodate them all, recourse was had to a dirty- looking bench which stood in one corner of the apart- ment. Distrustful of every one who wished to purchase his tallow or hides, he had accumulated an immense amount in his storehouses, where many of the latter had been destroyed by the length of time they had remained deposited. The tallow he had laid down in large, arched, stone vats, of sufficient capacity to con- tain several cargoes. In the morning we left, and pursued our course 36 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. across the valley of St. FernandOj towards the glen of Cowwanga, and a short gallop over the hills brought us in sight of the " Pueblo de los Angeles," situated about three leagues from St. Gabriel, and about twen- ty miles from the bay of ^t. Pedro. The population of this town is about fifteen hundred ; and has an al- calde, two regidores, and a syndico, who compose its " Ayimtamientd'^ or Town Council. In the vicinity are many vineyards and corn-fields, and some fine gardens, crossed by beautiful streams of water. The lands being level and fertile, are capable of great agri- cultural improvement ; and several Americans, taking advantage of the resources of the place, are living here, having storehouses, and are engaged in business. After passing the night here, Ave resumed our journey to St. Pedro. The ride was over a long plain through the farm of Don Manuel, called " El rancho de Do- minguez," where we stopped a while to rest, and hav- ing taken a final leave of our friend, pursued our way to the beach. We found the ship at anchor, having performed the passage in three days and a half, and was then wait- ing our arrival. On board v^ere our friend Yorba, from Sta. Ana, the old mayordomo from St. Juan, and several others waiting for goods, whom we imme- diately despatched, and then made preparations for the numerous friends whom we expected to arrive in the morning. Having imprudently left St. Diego without pass- LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 37 ports, we found a letter from the " Comandante " of the place, reproving us for having presumed to travel in the country without these necessary documents. We met with no difficulty, however, on our route with- out them, which we attributed to the fact of our being " pretty well known upon the road, as the saying is." The necessity of procuring passports is not confined to foreigners alone, but also to the country people, who, when even going to their farms, or to the neighboring villages, are required to obtain permission from the authorities. The rigid performance of this custom, although oftentimes extremely inconvenient, still had its advantages ; inasmuch as the escape of a criminal was next to impossible, for he was most generally sure to be detected at the missions or outposts. The harbor of St. Pedro is an extensive bay, and, although not considered a safe anchorage during the winter months, when the southeast wind prevails, yet vessels frequently embark and discharge their cargoes here at all seasons of the year. The best anchorage is close under the northwest point of the bay, about three quarters of a mile outside of a small and rocky island ; and the same distance from the beach. There is a house at the landing-place which generally serves as a land-mark, in connection with the preceding loca- tions, and vessels usually, in the mild season of the year, bring this to bear W.N.W., whilst the point lies S.W. by S., and the island N.^E. From the month of October, till the beginning of May, vessels anchor at 5 38 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. least a mile outside of these bearings, and ships are necessarily prepared for slipping their cables, and get- ting under way, should the wind, as is often the case, chop in suddenly from the S.E. The holding ground is good ; of stiff mud, in four and a half to nine fath- oms. As we anticipated, our friends came in the morning, flocking on board from all quarters ; and soon a busy scene commenced, afloat and ashore. Boats were ply- ing to and fro — launches laden with the variety of our cargo passing to the beach, and men, women, and children crowding upon our decks, partaking in the general excitement. On shore all was confusion. Cattle and carts laden .with hides and tallow, " gente de razonj'' and Indians, busily employed in the de- livery of their produce, and receiving in return its value in goods ; groups of individuals seated around little bonfires upon the ground, and horsemen racing over the plain in every direction. Thus the day pass- ed ; some departing, some arriving ; till long after sun- set the low white road leading across the plain to the town, appeared a hving panorama. Due north from the place of anchorage is a narrow creek, communicating with a shallow basin, operated upon by the tides, where at this time thousands of hair-seal might be seen at low water, basking on the sand-banks. The channel here when at full flood has ten feet of water over the bar ; so that, in moderate weather, vessels drawing nine feet can easily pass over. LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 39 and anchor sufficiently near the shore to discharge their cargoes without the aid of launches. With very little expense it might be made a place of anchorage for large ships, either by digging out and deepening the present channel, or by closing up another outlet to the north of the island, which would bring the whole strength of the current through one passage, and thus wash away its sandy bottom. CHAPTER IV. Departure for Santa Barbara. — Arrival, — The Presidio. — Landing tlirough the Surf. — Friend Daniel. — A Ride on Muleback. — Visit to Dona Maria Antonia. — House of Friend Daniel. — Mission of Santa Barbara. — Female Costume. — Missions of St. Ynes and Purisima. — Rancho del Refugio. — St. Buenaventura. — Return to St. Diego.— House Blessing. — Fandango. Having collected in St. Pedro more produce than could be well received on board at that time, we resolv^- ed to deposite it in the storehouse on shore, while the ship proceeded to some of the northward ports. The anchor was weighed ; the vessel hauled on a wind, and stood over towards a low gap in the island of St. Cata- lina, and then back again to the main ; tacking off and on shore during the night, so that wlien daylight broke, we found ourselves betvv^een Point Dume and Point Conversion. The wind was very hght, hardly suffi- cient to keep steerage way ; but soon the sea breeze began to blow, and a cracking westerly wind enabled us during the day to beat up off the mission of St. Buenaventura. Here the shore is bold, and there is good anchorage for all classes of vessels ; but it is seldom visited on account of the high surf. The country as we proceeded northward assumed a more cultivated J .1 \ r, . .. 1 f r i \ % . V .^ ■^f ^4 ■.'vw, v.. J -J 'iMM-m- ■■ ■ ' ■■'^*mi LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 41 and beautiful appearance; the hills, however, seemed bleak and barren, but the valleys presented the highest degree of fertiUty. From the mission, we stood over for some small and rocky islands at the southeast point of Sta. Cruz ; and on the following morning, close under our lee, we beheld the beautiful vale of Sta. Barbara. Seen from the ship, the "Presidio" or town, its charming vicinity, and neat httle Mission in the back- ground, all situated on an incUned plane, rising gradu- ally from the sea to a range of verdant hills, three miles from the beach, have a striking and beautiful effect. Distance, however, in this case, " lends en- chantment to the view," which a nearer approach some- . what dispels; for we found the houses of the town, of which there were some two hundred, in not very good condition. They are built in the Spanish mode, with adohe walls, and roofs of tile, and are scattered about outside of the mihtary department ; shewing a total disregard of order on the part of the authorities. A ridge of rugged highlands extends along the rear, reaching from St. Bonaventura to Point Conception, and on the left of the town, in an elevated position, stands the Castillo or fortress. The port of Santa Barbara is completely sheltered . from the northwest and westerly winds, but somewhat exposed to those from the southeast. The anchorage is hard sand, abounding in sea- weed, where the ship ^q&me to, in six and a half fathoms. The sails were furl- \ 5* 42 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. ed, the boat lowered and manned, and we proceeded to the shore. A heavy westerly wind during the night had " knock- ed up" considerable swell, which continued to roll in and fall heavily upon the sand. Our men pulled lustily till ordered to lay upon their oars, when we effected our land- ing. In approaching the shore through the surf, more depends upon the judgment of the person steering the boat than upon the rowers. Usually, there are three consecutive rolls, and then follows a temporary recession ; and to land safely, it is necessary to proceed with caution, wait an opportunity by observing the swell ; pull in strong on a third roller, and the moment the boat strikes the sand, the oars should be cast on either side, while the men jump out and prevent her being carried back by the retiring surf At the landing we found our Yankee friend Danie H , and a few others who had come down to greei G . As the town was three quarters of a mil^ distant, I accepted Daniel's offer of his fine saddled mule and he getting up behind me, we rode along slowly, un^ til we reached a small descent, where flowed a streai which recent rains had swollen beyond its usual bounds!' Here the stubborn animal stopped, and seemed disincli- ned to proceed, but repeated application of the spurs at last urged him forward, and he forded the stream. As- cending the opposite bank, he again stopped, and giving a sudden fling in the air with his heels, sent us both rolling down towards the water. Fortunately we were i LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 43 neither wet nor hurt, but after so decided a manifesta- tion of the creature's abihties, I decUned remounting. Daniel, however, nowise disconcerted, mounted the beast and rode off alone. As was requisite, we first visited the Commandant, in order to leave with him the ship's roll. This is a com- pUance exacted from all vessels arriving at ports in Cali- fornia, and usually their captains are obHged to deliver their documents in person. The most stately house in the place at this time was that of the diputado to Mexico, Don Jose de la Guerra y Noriega. G having in his possession some pres- ents for the family, we proceeded thither at once. Here we partook of chocolate Avith the lady of the house, Dona Maria Antonia, whilst her daughters eagerly dis- tributed the several gifts. The old lady, a fine, mother- ly, good woman, had acquired by her deportment and affectionate manner toward strangers the esteem of all who knew her. Her father was an officer in the royal command, previous to the success of republicanism in Mexico, and her brothers, all but one, were then officers in the army. An American lady once observed to me, that there were in California two things supremely good, La Senora Noriega, and grapes ! During the afternoon, we visited the house of our friend Daniel. He was standing at the door anxiously awaiting our approach ; and two or three children were playing in the corridor before him. As we drew near, the little ones retired, and chairs were brought outside, 44 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. that we might enjoy the fresh air. Here we were to remain for the night, and arrangements were made ac- cordingly. Supper was soon announced, when we had the pleasure of seeing the lady of the house, a fine healthy-looking female, with splendid eyes and beauti- ful black hair ; but she said but little, and soon retired with her children. The Presidio of Santa Barbara consists of a large square of buildings, surrounded by high walls, in plan similar to that of St. Diego, and contains a chapel, cem- etery, prison, and storehouses. The Commandant, Don Romualdo Pacheco, is a Mexican, who came to the country in the 3^ear 1825, with the present Governor, Echandia. The number of men garrisoned under his command does not exceed forty. In the morning we v/alked to the mission, distant from the town about half a league. The road was pleasant, through scattered oaks ; and groups of cattle were seen grazing upon the grassy plains. On the right were spacious wheat fields ; at length, through a narrow way, amid immense rocks scattered over the ground, we reached the estabhshment. The stone church, with its two towers and extensive wing, its artificial clock, tiled roofs, arched corridor, and majes- tic fountain, was before us. On the right were various buildings for superintendents, a guard-house, tannery, and a dilapidated grist-mill ; on the left, the spacious garden, with its fruit trees and flowers, and several rows of low buildings. Father Antonio Jimeno, the mission- 11 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 45 ary, received us in a small but tastefully arranged apartment ; the floor of which was of colored cement, and the walls painted and hung round with pictures of saints. Two or three sofas, a long table and book- case, comprised its furniture. He welcomed us kindly, and after a short conversation, we walked into the ^'"patioj^ or square, where carpenters, saddlers, and shoemakers were at work, and young girls spinning and preparing wool for the loom. We next entered the vestry, which was carpeted and hung round with looking-glasses and fine paintings. Adjoining this was a small, but convenient dressing-room, where were arranged the numerous dresses and ornaments used in the church services, some of them rich and of the most costly description. From this, a door led into the church, where we beheld a gorgeous display of ban- ners, paintings, images, and crucifixes of gold and sil- ver. The musicians attached to the choir were prac- tising, and played some very fine airs ; rather unsuita- ble, however, to the place. It was not unusual, both there and at the churches of other missions, to hear during the mass the most lively dancing tunes. An- other door of the church opened upon the cemetery, where were buried the deceased Christians of the Mis- sion and Presidio, surrounded by a thick wall, and having in one corner the charnel house, crowded with a ghastly array of skulls and bones. In the rear, from a sHght elevation, might be seen large fields of wheat and corn ; and the little' valleys 46 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. among the hills, filled with fruit and vegetable gardens. A foaming stream rushes down the mountain, from which is carried in an open aqueduct along the brow of the hill, a supply of water for a spacious reservoir of beautiful masonry. We returned to town, and at the beach found a Uvely and busy scene. Our men were passing through the surf to the launch bearing hides upon their heads, while others landed, from smaller boats, portions of the ship's cargo. It was a merry sight, and their shouts mingled with the sound of the waves as they beat upon the sand. We embarked on board ship, where soon our decks were crowded with men and w^omen of all classes ; many coming to purchase, some to see the vessel, and others to accompany their friends, so that it was not unusual for us to have a party of twenty or thirty at dinner. The dress worn by the middling class of females is a chemise with short embroidered sleeves, richly trim- med with lace, a muslin petticoat flounced with scarlet, and secured at the waist by a silk band of the same color, shoes of velvet or blue satin, a cotton rehoso or scarf, pearl necklace and ear-rings, with the hair fall- ing in broad plaits down the back. Others of the higher class dress in the English style, and instead of the rehoso substitute a rich and costly shawl of silk or satin. There is something graceful in the manage- ment of the rehoso that the natives alone can impart, i LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 47 and the perfect nonchalance with which it is thrown about them and worn, adds greatly to its beauty. Very few of the men have adopted our mode of dress, the greater part adhering to the ancient costume of the past century. Short clothes, and jacket trimmed with scarlet, a silk sash about the waist, hotas of orna- mented and embroidered deer skin, secured by colored garters, embroidered shoes, the hair long, braided and fastened behind with ribbons, a black silk handkerchief around the head, surmounted by an oval and broad- brimmed hat, is the dress universally worn by the men of California. The following morning, intending to visit the north- ern missions of Santa Ynes and Purissima, we started off about eight o'clock accompanied by our friend Daniel. We rode through a woody pass, crossed a small plain and many hills, till we at length reached a place called, from tlie innumerable bogs and quagmires with which it abounds, " Las Cenegitas ;" yet we found here several gardens and two or three fine maize fields. Continu- ing our course from this place, nearly parallel w4th the coast; passing several small farms attached to the Mis- sion, and many pleasant little valleys, through which rivulets flowed down to the sea; a ride of about two hours and a half brought us to the " Rancho del Refu- gio," generally termed " Ortega Farm." It consisted of three or four laigc buildings, several gardens or vine- yards, and a few fields of corn, wheat, and beans. Daniel informed me it was once a large place, and, un- 48 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. der the supervision of its proprietor, Don Jose Maria Ortegii, appeared like a little mission ; but that in the year 1819 it was visited by a piratical vessel, under the command of Buchard, who nearly destroyed it, since when it has never regained its once flourishing condi- tion. Here commences the Ciiesta or pass across the mountains. It is a winding road, in many places only of sufficient width for one animal to pass, and almost blocked up with loose stones. From the level summit to which we slowly ascended, we had on one side an extensive view of the shore from Point Conception to Santa Barbara, comprising more than sixty miles of sea-coast, and on the other a fine open country covered with woods and abounding in excellent pasturage. Here we rested a few moments to give our animals breath, and then commenced our gradual descent. This we found even more tedious, and oftentimes, from the im- mense numbers of worn rocks and loose stones, more dangerous than had been our ascent. We accomplished the task, however, and soon beheld, upon a distant ele- vation, the Mission of Santa Ynes. The fording of a river and a short gallop soon brought us to its door. This Mission, founded in 1797, was governed by Father Bias Ordas, who received us with the accus- tomed cordiality of his hospitable order. The building we found much like that of Santa Barbara, differing only in the appearance of the church and the cleanli- ness of its apartments. In front was a large brick en- r#v^-v 1^ LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 49 closure where the females bathed and washed ; to the right the gardens, filled with choice fruit trees, and on the left a few clusters of Indian huts and tiled houses. The storehouses were well stocked with grain, and the domesticated cattle numbered nearly nine thousand. In the morning we rode over to the Purissima, where we found two reverend friars, Fathers Victoria and Juan Moreno. This mission was originally established in 1787, at a place now known as " La Mision Vieja ;" but has since been rebuilt in its present location, and though possessing abundant wealth, in cattle and plant- ing grounds, yet it has been much neglected, and the Indians generally are ill clothed, and seem in the most abject condition. We remained here but a short time, and returning to Santa Ynes, slept there that night, and the next day reached the ship. The morning after, we set out on an excursion to St. Buenaventura. The road thither is partly over the hard sandy beach, and at times, when the tide is low, it is possible to perform the whole journey over this smooth level. We were not over two hours on the road, and arrived before dinner, finding the reverend father Fran- cisco Uria closely wrapped up in his studies, in his sit- ting apartment. He was the Padre of the Mission which was founded in 1782, and which is situated near the sea-shore, at the entrance of a valley leading into the interior among the mountains. It possesses about six thousand cattle and some splendid locations for cul- tivation. Besides the church attached to the main G 50 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. building, there is a small chapel towards the beach, in which mass is at no time performed except on extra- ordinary occasions. At dinner the fare was sumptuous, and I was much amused at the eccentricity of the old Padre, who kept constantly annoying four large cats, his daily compan- ions ; or with a long stick thumped upon the heads of his Indian boys, and seemed dehghted thus to gratify his singular propensities. After concluding our meal, we walked with him to the garden, where we found a fine fountain of excel- lent water, and an abundance of fruits and vegetables. In their proper seasons they have apples, pears, peaches, pomegranates, tunas or prickly pears, and grapes. Along the margin of the river St. Buenaventura are many small gardens belonging to the Indians, where they raise fruit and vegetables, which are taken to the town and disposed of. The whale ships that touch at Sta. Barbara are from them frequently supplied with provisions. The small streams in the vicinity abound with fish, and salmon of excellent quality are some- times taken in the river. In the morning we departed early, for the town, where, on our arrival, the ship Avas immediately pre- pared for her return South. The wind was favorable ; the passage short ; and, twenty-four hours after weigh- ing anchor at Sta. Barbara, it was cast a second time in the bay of St. Pedro. Here we embarked the hides LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 51 and tallow we had deposited, and then proceeded for the port of St. Diego. The ship arrived there after a passage of two days, came to, and was anchored within pistol-shot of .the shore, immediately opposite the storehouse, so as to be conveniently located for landing hides. Then com- menced a busy scene. Boat after boat, launch after launch was laden and discharged on the beach, where men were stationed to receive and pile them upon large spars for protection from the dampness of the ground ; some secured together by ropes were placed at low water-mark to soak, and two large vats which had been made by the carpenter during our absence, were filled A^dth sea-water, into which large quantities of salt Avas thrown to increase its strength for a second im- mersion w^hich the hides underwent to prepare them for shipping. Senor Bandini had his house bendecida, or blessed, during our stay here, and G. and myself were invited to attend. The General, his officers, with many friends and their families, were present. The ceremony took place at noon, when the chaplain proceeded through the different apartments, sprinkUng holy water upon the walls, and uttering verses in Latin. This con- cluded, we sat down to an excellent dinner, consisting of all the luxuries the place afforded, provided in Don Juan's best style. As soon as the cloth was removed, the guitar and viohn were put in requisition, and a dance began. It lasted, however, but a httle while, for 52 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. it was necessary for them to spare their exertions for the evening fandango. So 'poco a poco^ all gradually retired to their homes. At an early hour the different passages leading to the house were enlivened with men, women, and chil- dren, hurrying to •the dance ; for on such occasions it was customary for every body to attend without wait- ing for the formality of an invitation. A crowd of leperos was collected about the door when we arrived, now and then giving its shouts of approbation tg the performances within, and it was with some difficulty we forced our entrance. Two persons were upon the floor dancing " el jarabe." They kept time to the music, by drumming with their feet, on the heel and toe system, with such precision, that the sound struck harmoniously upon the ear, and the admirable execu- tion would not have done injustice to a pair of drum- sticks in the hands of an able professor. The attitude of tlie female dancer was erect, with her head a little inclined to the right shoulder, as she modestly cast lier eyes to the floor, whilst her hands gracefully held the skirts of her dress, suspending it above the ankle so as to expose to the company the execution of her feet. Her partner, who might have been one of the interlo- pers at tlie door, was under full speed of locomotion, and rattled away with his feet with wonderful dexter- ity. His arms were thrown carelessly behind his back, and secured, as they crossed, the points of liis serape, that still held its place upon his shoulders. Neither LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 53 had he doffed his "sombrero," but just as he stood when gazing from the crowd, he had placed himself upon the floor. The conchision of this performance gave us an oppor- tunity to edge our way along towards the extremity of the room, where a door communicated with an inner apartment. Here we placed ourselves, to witness in a more favorable position the amusements of the evening. The room was about fifty feet in length, and twenty wide, modestly furnished, and its sides crowded with smiling faces. Upon the floor were accommodated the children and Indian girls, Avho, close under the vigilance of their parents and mistresses, took part in the scene. The musicians again commencing a lively tune, one of the managers approached the nearest female, and, clap- ping his hands in accompaniment to the music, succeed- ed in bringing lier into the centre of the room. Here she remained a while, gently tapping with her feet upon the floor, and then giving two or three whirls, skipped away to her seat. Another was clapped out, and an- otlier, till the manager had passed the compliment throughout the room. This is called a soji^ and there is a custom among the men, when a dancer proves partic- ularly attractive to any one, to place his hat upon her head, while she stands thus in the middle of the room, which she retains until redeemed by its owner, with some trifling present. During the performance of the dances, three or four male voices occasionally take part in the music, and towards the end of the evening, from re- 6* 54 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. peated applications of aguardiente^ they become quite boisterous and discordant. The waltz was now introduced, and ten or a dozen couple whirled gaily around the room, and heightened the charms of the dance b)^ the introduction of numerous and interesting figures. Between the dances, refresh- ments were handed to the ladies, whilst in an adjoining apartment, a table was prepared for the males, who par- took without ceremony. The most interesting of all their dances is the contra danza^ and this, also, may be considered the most graceful. Its figures are intricate, and in connection with the waltz, form a charming com- bination. These fandangos usually hold out till day- light, and at intervals the people at the door are permit- ted to introduce theixjarahes and jotas. G and myself retired early, and in the morning hastened to the beach. Ten days had now elapsed since our departure from St. Pedro, and we were at last reaay for sea. The launch was hoisted in, the ship unmoored, and the day appointed for our departure, which was to be the following. CHAPTER V, Departure for San Francisco. — Farallones Islands. — Yerba Buena. — Coinandante. — The Presidio. — Journey to Santa Clara. — Mission of Dolores. — Rancho de las Pulgas. — Mission of Santa Clara. — San Francisco. — Departure for Monterey and Santa Barbara. — Journey to San Pedro. — Ride by Moonlight.— Tiburcio Tapia. At noon the Commandant made his appearance on board with the ship's roll, and we got under wa}^ and stood out of the bay till well clear of the shoal, off Point Loma, where we hauled to the wind, and stood off to the west. Unfavorable weather carried us much out of our course, and it was with difficulty that we could make a northerly direction, so that twenty-two da3^s elapsed ere we had obtained our point of latitude. Final- ly, we saw the rocks called the Farallones^ bearing northeast, distant from us eight or nine miles. We soon passed the largest and southernmost one, which was still occupied by the Russians ; and could distinct- ly perceive among the huts ten or twelve persons, who were Uving there for the purpose of catching fur seal, which were so abundant in former years, that my friend G assured me he had assisted in collecting during one season, over eighty thousand skins from this same island. Four or five hours more brought us to the 56 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. entrance of the port of St. Francisco, but as it was then quite dark, I could not discern the appearance of the land. As we passed the castle point, the water became less acted upon by the ocean's swell, and the only ripple,, visible, was caused by the course of our ship, as she drew near her place of anchorage. Leaving the Pre- sidio on our right, we continued our course for Yerba Buena, where we came to, in six and a half fathoms. When morning came, I found we were in a small bay, close to the shore ; on one side of which were steep rocks, and on the other a smooth sandy beach. Out- side of us was the island of Yerba Buena, and beyond this, on the other side of the bay of St. Francisco, the highlands of St. Antonio. At ten o'clock we were visit- ed by the Commandant, Don Ignacio Martinez, who remained to dine; a Mexican by birth, though more of a Spaniard in feeling. In his conversation, it would have been difficult for a stranger to designate his na- tion, for having learned a few v/ords in English, Rus- sian, and French, he had formed a jargon which no one could understand but himself. As soon as dinner was over, we accompanied him to his house. It was a short ride over the hill, in the direction of the Castillo^ or fort. We soon caught a glimpse of the low buildings, with their dark tiled roofs, resembling prisons more than dwelling houses, and the residence of our Commandant was the most conspicuous amongst them. This was the Presidio. In its plan, it is similar to those already described, but is in a most ruinous state. There are A LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 57 a few framed houses scattered about outside the square, and a short distance beyond, upon the extreme point of the httle bay, is the fort, which, on account of its eleva- ted position, is used as a " look-out place." In the morning, G went to the Mission of Dolores to visit the padre, and engage horses for our contempla- ted journey to Santa Clara, and returned on board in the afternoon. On the following day, at an early hour, our animals were on the beach, in charge of a vaquero^ who was sent to accompany us as guide in the journey. This was an accommodation universal with all the good old friars, for which they accepted no compensation. We mounted speedily, and commenced our route through a dense thicket, where the path was narrow, and where the trees so intersected their branches, as to endanger our heads as we rode along. Thus we went on ; sometimes crossing little valleys, where the fox-like coyote prowled, and sometimes rising sandy eminences, where a ghmpse was had of the neighboring bay. Through the woods resounded the wolfs howl, and the heavy track of the grizzly bear lay printed in our course. At length, through an opening in the woods, we saw the Mission of Dolores. Its dilapidated walls, and dark tiled roof, well accorded with the bleak and cheerless scenery with which it was surrounded; for the cold, blustering sea winds, as they sweep over the hills, chill and (festroy vegetation. As we approached the building, we saw in the long corridor the old friar and his mayor- do7?io, to whom he appeared to be giving some directions, 58 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. for the latter, hat in hand, attentively hstened. Some Indians were employed in throwing out hides from one end of the building, and he was evidently giving orders for their transportation to the beach. " Como les van amigos? pasan vmds.^^ — "How are you, friends? walk in," he shouted, at the top of his voice, as we en- tered the hospitable mission, and his extended hand was warmly closed on mine, in earnest of the sincerity of his invitation. After a short conversation we remounted our horses and proceeded on our route for Sta. Clara. The first two or three leagues of the journey were over a succes- sion of hills and small valleys, where the strong wester- ly gales came with such force that the progress of our horses was somewhat impeded, in consequence of the violent effect of the wind on the large leather trappings attached to our saddle-gear. We passed on the road a large inclosure, called El potrero^ used for the rearing of horses, the walls of which were of loose stones, piled up to the height of about four feet. Passing this, we opened upon the grazing grounds of the Mission, where thousands of cattle were scattered about in herds. On our right, the land was elevated, and as it continued in the distance, its top was covered with pines. To the left, lay the smooth and spacious bay, extending in a southeast direcrtion, full thirty miles from the ship's place of anchorage, bounded on the op- posite side by the highlands of St. Leandro and St. Jose. Our ride was charming, and now and then a LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 59 distant farm-house, or Indian hut, with its Uttle garden, would come in sight; and numerous rivulets winding their way towards the bay, adding much to the pic- turesqueness of the scene. A few leagues brought us to the sheep-farm of St. Mateo, situated in the midst of a small wood. The building, occupied by the mayor- domo and servants, is spacious and covered with burnt tiles. Here we aUghted, and, after a short rest, re- mounted and resumed our journey. " El Rancho de las pulgas" was the next place of any importance in our route, and is situated a little retired from the road, at the foot of a small rising ground. It is the property of Dona Soledad Ortega, widow of Don Luis Arguello, formerly governor of California. I found her a beauti- ful woman, and the mother of three or four fine chil- dren. She Avas very lady-like in her manner, and treated us with the utmost courtesy. After dinner, we bade her adieu, and again proceeded on our way, which was uninterrupted, till, far distant in the centre of a spacious plain, we beheld Santa Clara and its nume- rous buildings. It was three o'clock when we arrived at this Mission, having performed the journey of eighteen leagues in about eight hours. Father Jose Yiader was director of the establishment ; a good old man, whose heart and soul were in proportion to his immense figure. This institution was founded in the year 1777, and formerly stood a few rods beyond its present location. Like the other Missions in the neighborhood of St. Francisco, 60 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. its resources were immensej from the annual production of grain ; and, possessing large stocks of cattle, it was enabled to make liberal " matanzas," of which, the abundant proceeds were usually heaped up, under the corridor in the square of the main building. A large garden of choice fruit-trees adorned its right, whilst another of greater magnitude occupied a space in front. The hills of St. Jose were visible beyond, and betwixt the trees that covered the plain we obtained a distant view of the town of that name. Our stay of several weeks in the neighborhood gave ample time for observation, and I had various opportu- nities to visit among the inhabitants, from whom I received great kindness and hospitality. Business re- quired several trips to and from the ship, which were performed sometimes on horseback, and sometimes by means of a launch belonging to the Mission of Dolores. The latter mode of conveyance was preferable by far, and the more expeditious when aided by the tides, which here rise and fall some five or six feet. San Francisco has one of the largest and most valu- able harbors in the world. Nature has so defended its narrow entrance, that with but little expense it might be made perfectly impregnable. Its steep and lofty chffsjon either side, combined with other prominent lo- cations within, might be so fortified as to bid defiance to the most powerful and determined foe. The sound- ings are deep, and, in mid-channel, may be found in from forty to forty-five fathoms. The course for vessels LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 61 coming in from sea, is generally midway between the bluff points of land. There are five missionary establishments located upon the sides of the bay, called the Missions of Dolores, Santa Clara, St. Jose, St. Francisco Solano, and St. Rafael. These have a population of over five thousand Indians, and only about two hundred whites. The whole number of cattle, domesticated, is more than forty thousand, exclusive of horses, mules, and sheep. The rivers and creeks are supplied with an abundance of salmon and other fish ; game is plentiful, and bears, wildcats, wolves, and *coyotes, are often met with. On the northern side of the bay are found the American elk and antelope, and great quantities of deer ; the first of these is hunted for its tallow, which is preferred to that taken from bullocks. The islands and neighbor- ing lands afford abundance of wood and timber. The soil is excellent, and perhaps in no part of the world more yielding, particularly for wheat ; as an instance of its immense fertihty in this respect, the following circumstance was related to me by the mayordomo of the mission of St. Jose. Eight fanegas, equal to twelve bushels of wheat, were sowed, which yielded twelve hundred fanegas or eighteen hundred bushels ; the fol- lowing year, from the grain which fell at the time of the first harvest, over one thousand bushels were reap- ed ; and again in the succeeding year three hmidred bushels. The average production of wheat is one hun- dred fanegas for one sowed. In many parts of the 7 62 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. country irrigation is necessary, but here, owing to the heavy dews which fall at night, the eartii becomes suf- ficiently moistened for cultivation. Having accomplished our business for the present at St. Francisco, we got under way and proceeded along the coast to Monterey. During the niglit a strong cur- rent swept us down below Point Pinos, so that we did not arrive till the third day after our departure. We found at Monterey two new comers ; an American schooner from the Sandwich Islands, and a Mexican vessel belonging to Don Jose de la Guerra y Noriega, late " diputado" to Mexico, who had just returned after an absence of two years. He brought with him, as passengers, two American gentlemen who had received large grants of land from the general government, and had come to the country for the purpose of making ar- rangements for colonization. Remaining here but a short time, we continued our voyage to Santa Barbara, where we arrived after a pro- tracted passage; the same strong current from the north having carried the ship a second time beyond her port of destination. Here we left the ship for a short excursion across the country, proposing to meet her again at St. Pedro, arid starting early in the morn- ing, arrived about noon at the mission of St. Buenaven- tura, where we remained till evening, and then resumed our journey upon the same horses. A fine moon had risen just as we set out, and so briUiantly was the whole country hghted up, that our way lay before us as clearly LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 63 as at noonday. The clear heavens ; the bright moon j the beautiful country strdlching far away into the blue distance, and basking in the moonlight ; the deep si- lence, unbroken save by the footfalls of our horses, or the cries of some wild night-bird ; all formed a scene of such rare beauty, that the impression still lingers in my memory. At midnight we reached the "Rancho de Simi," some fourteen leagues from the Mission. The good people who inhabited this lonely spot w^e found were fast locked in sleep, so that we were obliged tp take up our quarters upon the ground, in the open air. The " mochillas" and " armas" attached to our sad- dle gear were spread for a bed, to secure our bodies against the dampness of the earth, whilst our " serapes" served as coverlets, and our saddles as pillows. We slept soundly in spite of the rudeness of our beds, and awaking at daylight much refreshed, pushed on for Los Angeles, which we reached at noon. We stopped at the house of Don Tiburcio Tapia, the " Alcalde Con- stitucional" of the town, once a soldier in very moderate circumstances, but who by honest and industrious labor had amassed so much of this world's goods, as to make him one of the wealthiest inhabitants of the place. His strict integrity gave him credit to any amount, so that he was the principal merchant, and the only native one in El Pueblo de los Angeles. A short ride brought us to the beach at St. Pedro, where we embarked for St. Diego. The ship was soon under sail, and forty-eight hours' run brought us to our place of anchorage. 64 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. The consequent bustle of disembarkation commenced. The hides were landed, tallow bags whitewashed, ship smoked, and every thing again prepared for her depart- ure. During her trip to the northward I was to re- main a resident at St. Diego, and quantities of goods were landed, and a store fitted up in the house of tlie mother of our old friend Don Manuel Dominguez. The day for the ship's departure arrived. I bade adieu to G , and proceeded to take charge of my future occupation and residence. CHAPTER VI. Residence in St. Diego. — Practice of Medicine. — Evening's Amuse- ments. — Pastores. — La Noche Buena. — Insurrection in the North. — Departure of Echeandia and his Troops. — Defeat of the Rebels. — " Hide Park." — Hide Stealing. — Embarkation. — Pueblo de San Jose. — Its Inhabitants. — Mission of San Jose. — Pddre Narciso Duran. — Per- ilous Adventure in a Boat. — Sailing out of San Francisco. — Journey from Monterey to Santa Barbara. — Buena Vista. — La Soledad. — San Antonio. — San Miguel. — Hot Springs. — Santa Margarita. — St. Luis Obispo. — Guadaloupe. — Matanzas. — A Chance Shot. — Landing Car- go at Santa Barbara. — New Residence on Shore. The family in which I now resided at St. Diego consisted of the old lady Dominguez, Don Jose Anto- nio Estudillo and his wife, Doiia Victoria, with two children, and three servants. My first week's residence proved rather dull, and I found it necessary to make frequent hunting excursions in the neighborhood, with an occasional ride to our depot at " Hide Park," in or- der to wear away the time, and break up the monotony of our little village. My new lodgings unfortunately had no direct com- munication with the street, except by a small win- dow, so that my customers were compelled to pass through the sala^ and a sleeping apartment, ere they could get access to my place of business. On the third 7* 66 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. or fourth night I was aroused by a rap at the httle win- dow and requested by an old woman to go with her and prescribe for her daughter, who was taken sud- denly ill and was suffering most violent pain. Fear- ful of exposing myself to the night air and endangering the safety of the property under my charge through such indiscretion, I concluded not to accompany her, but advised her to give her daughter a few drops of laudanum. She then left me, but on the following morning returned to express her thanks for the won- derful cure I had so accidentally performed. This was enough to establish my fame as a medico throughout the town, and had I been so inclined I might (by pro- viding the medicine) have become quite a proficient in the art of killing. There are no physicians in the country, and every foreigner is supposed to possess some knowledge of the practice of medicine. I recollect a circumstance which will serve to illustrate the fact. One of our sailors, who had absconded from the ship at one of the neighboring ports, found his way to Santa Barbara and set himself up as a doctor. It was not difficult to impose upon the poor credulous creatures of the lower class, and thus he managed to get as much liquor as he wanted during his stay by administering his remedies in " agiiardien- ^e," of which he partook freely, himself, to prove their simplicity. In a short time I became acquainted with many of the inhabitants of the place, whose frequent visits to LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 67 the house estabhshed between us a famiharity which resulted in many a pleasant pastime. Sefior Lugo was one who nightly made his appearance, and amused us by his stories and eccentricities. One evening he came prepared to play off a practical joke upon me. He had loaded a paper cigar with gunpowder and placed it amongst his cigarros. During his visit he repeatedly asked me to smoke, but I fortunately missed the one he prepared, until finally, from the lateness of the hour, he withdrew. In the course of the night, after retiring, he awoke, and feeling a desire to smoke, selected from his bundle, quite forgetful of the evening's amusement^ the very cigar he had prepared for me. Having lighted it, he returned to bed and extended himself by the side of his fair esposa. The cigar was about half consumed and he more than half asleep, when a sudden explo- sion carried away the better part of his' moustache, and so thoroughly frightened his poor wife, that I venture to say the event will never be forgotten. Don Jose Antonio w^as equally amusing in his char- acter, and was ever on the alert seeking for some new device for my gratification. It was nearly time for the religious festival of " la noche buena," and he directed the customary exhibition of the ^'^ pastor es.'''' They were rehearsing night after night, till at length Christ- mas arrived, and I had an opportunity of beholding the ceremony of midnight mass and the subsequent per- formances. At an early hour illuminations commenced, fire- 68 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. works were set off, and all was rejoicing. The church bells rang merrily, and long before the time of mass the pathways leading to the Presidio were enlivened by crowds hurrying to devotion. I accompanied Don Jose Antonio, who procured for me a stand where I could see distinctly everything that took place. The mass commenced. Padre Vicente de Oliva officiated, and at the conclusion of the mysterious " sacrificio " he pro- duced a small image representing the infant Saviour, which he held in his hands for all who chose to ap- proach and kiss. After this, the tinkling of the guitar was heard without, the body of the church was cleared, and. immediately commenced the harmonious sounds of a choir of voices. The characters entered in proces- sion, adorned with appropriate costume, and bearing banners. There were six females representing shep- herdesses, three men and a boy. One of the men per- sonated Lucifer, one a hermit, and the other Bartolo, a lazy vagabond, whilst the boy represented the arch- angel Gabriel. The story of their performance is par- tially drawn from the Bible, and commences with the angel's appearance to the shepherds, his account of the birth of our Saviour, and exhortation to them to repair to the scene of the manger. Lucifer appears among them, and endeavors to prevent the prosecution of their journey. His influence and temptations are about to succeed, when Gabriel again appears and frustrates their effect. A dialogue is then carried on of considerable length relative to the attributes of the Deity, which end.^ LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 69 in the submission of Satan. The whole is interspersed with songs and incidents that seem better adapted to the stage than the church. For several days this the- atrical representation is exhibited at the principal houses, and the performers at the conclusion of the play are entertained with refreshments. The boys take an enthusiastic part in the performance, and follow about, from house to house, perfectly enraptured with the comicalities of the hermit and Bartolo. About this time, tlie general received information of an insurrection in the north, headed by a person named Soliz. The town of Monterey had surrendered to his forces, the garrison having been surprised during the night and overpowered without the shedding of blood ; and he was now on his way south, to cope with Eche- andia. Accordingly, the busy preparations for war commenced. Old rusty guns were repaired, hacked swords were sharpened, rude lances made, and all the force that could be mustered was soon on its way to meet the enemy. At the commencement of this revolution, there were in the hands of the commissary about three thousand dol- lars, which were seized upon by Soliz. A contribution also was levied upon the inhabitants for the support of the new government. Their manifesto declared that they only contended for their rights ; that they would not interfere with foreigners, nor in any way interrupt the commercial interests of the country. Soliz was elected President, and had under his command over one hun- 70 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. dred well-armed men. This was considered a power- ful force for California, and it was generally believed that Echeandia would have considerable difficulty in quelling the disturbance. Several weeks elapsed ere we received information of the success of the government party. They had defeated the rebels, and the ringleaders were taken to St. Bias. An old friar of the Mission of St. Luis Obispo was charged with having aided the insurgents, and after undergoing a strict examination before the general and his officers, he was embarked on board a merchant ship, and sent out of the country. The population of St. Diego being somewhat redu- ced in consequence of the departure of the troops, the town was dull in the extreme, so that I was compelled to make daily use of my fowling-piece, and resort wilh greater frequency, to the scene of hide curing at " Hide Park." On one of my visits, I was informed by our officer in charge, that for several days he had missed hides from the number put to soak ; that the night pre- vious he got up in consequence of some unusual noise among the dogs, and seizing his gun, sallied forth to dis- cover the cause. He soon perceived a dark object mov- ing along, a little above the surface of the water, at which he immediately fired. It dropped at once, and a tall figure sprang from the water to the shore, and rushed from the beach by one of the pathways leading to the hills. It w^as an Indian, who had swam to the hides, and, having succeeded in abstracting one of them, was LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 71 returning to the shore with it upon his head. In this way he had stolen about a dozen, which were subse- quently found secreted among the bushes. During the absence of friend G , I had received from him but two letters, which were of a date prior to his leaving Santa Barbara for the north, so that I had no specified time to look for his return ; but, at length, after an absence of three months, the ship was reported in the offing, and to my great joy, she soon appeared coming round Point Loma. I immediately started for the beach, and, putting spurs to my horse, reached our barraca just as she came to, when a boat was dis- patched to convey me on board. I found as passengers in the ship several of the officers who were liberated at Monterey, in consequence of the success of Echeandia. The ship had made a fortunate trip, and had gathered nearly enough hides to make a homeward cargo, and only one visit more to the north was to be made ere she would leave for the United States. This was grat- ifying to the crew, and to all concerned, and the labor of discharging went on so briskly, that soon every thing was in readiness for our departure. The store was abandoned, the goods unsold re-embarked, and again we made sail for the port of St. Francisco. A tedious passage of twenty-one days brought us to the place of anchorage at Yerba Bupna, where we found several American vessels, and a large Russian ship from Sitka, which had come for a cargo of wheat and beef- fat. The next morning after our arrival, I 72 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. took an early ride to the Mission of St. Clara, and from thence, after dinner, visited the Pueblo de San Jose, about three miles distant. The road, which is level and shaded on each side by large and stately trees, is called the " Alameda." It is frequented gener- ally on the Sabbath or feast days, when all the town repair to the church at Santa Clara. On a Sunday may be seen hundreds of persons, of both sexes, gaily attired in silks and satins, mounted on their finest horses, and proceeding leisurely up the road. No car- riages are used, and, of course, the scene is divested of all the pomp and splendor which accompanies church- going in the larger places of the republic, yet, in one respect it excels them all, that is, in the display of fe- male beauty. No part of Mexico can show so large a share of bright eyes, fine teeth, fair proportions, and beautiful complexions. The town of St. Jose consists of about one hundred houses ; it has a church, court-house, and jail. Its civil authorities are an Alcalde, two Regidores, ifec, as in the town of Los Angeles, at the south. Their decisions in important law cases are subject to the confirmation of the Comandante General, ere they can be acted upon. In all capital offences, the delinquents, after an investi- gation of their cases by the Alcalde, are sent to the su- preme government, unless the arbitrary general sees proper to take upon himself the execution of the law, which has been the case in some few instances. Many little gardens of fruit trees are attached to the LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 73 houses, also some fine fields, where are raised large quantities of wheat and corn. A small stream of water supplies the means of irrigation, and serves as the pow- er to a profitable grist-mill. The men are generally indolent, and addicted to many vices, caring little for the welfare of their children, who, like themselves, grow up unworthy members of society. Yet, with vice so preva- lent amongst the men, the female portion of the com- munity, it is w^orthy of remark, do not seem to have felt its influence, and perhaps there are few places in the world, where, in proportion to the number of inhabi- tants, can be found more chastity, industrious habits, and correct deportment, than among the women of this place. This observation may be applied to the country, gener- ally ; which is rather surprising when we consider the want of distinction observed between those of virtuous and immoral habits : for it is not unusual to see at public assemblages the most perfect familiarity between the two classes. This often misleads strangers, who form, in consequence, incorrect opinions. In time, when the country becomes more settled, a necessary distinction will prevail among the various classes ; and society will be found more select, jas in places of greater civilization. Their adherence to the faithful observances of the church, as in all Catholic countries, is truly firm ; and the most trifling deviation from its commands is looked upon with abhorrence. The extreme veneration shown towards the holy teachers of their religion, and the wonderful influence exercised by them, even in the affairs of their every-day 8 74 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. life, may account for any virtue they may exhibit. The friar's knowledge of the world, and his superior education, give him a station far above the unenlightened state of the laity, and place him in a sphere to inculcate good or disseminate evil. Fortunately, however, for the coun- try, the original founders of Christianity in Cahfornia were truly pious, excellent men, and their successors, generally, have endeavored to sustain their honorable character. Commerce is very limited, being confined to only four or five merchants in the place, who are principally for- eigners, so that my business here was soon accomplished ; but, ere returning to the ship, I concluded to ride to the Mission of St. Jose, about ten leagues from the town. My guide took the lead, and we galloped along, over a grassy plain, till we reached the banks of quite a large river. It was deep, and rapid, and I felt somewhat re- luctant to follow my companion, who plunged in, re- gardless of danger, and was soon on the opposite side. Seeing that I had not kept behind him, he returned to encourage, and show me how to proceed. Our horses simultaneously stepped in, and I was soon in the mid- dle of the stream, with my legs crossed above the sad- dle, for the water in some places was so deep from recent rains, that our steeds were obliged to swim. Having succeeded in reaching the opposite bank in safe- ty, although pretty thoroughly wetted, we resumed our gallop, till we came to a cluster of hills, where the road was somewhat miry, from the continued fiow of a neigh- ^B'i LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 75 ing hot spring. The Mission was situated a Httle beyond this, and, as we reached the summit of the last hill, we saw distinctly its long buildings, and singular church. The padre was at home when we arrived, and im- mediately ordered chocolate and refreshments. This was father Narciso Duran, a venerable, old man, who iiad spent the most valuable part of his life, in inces- sant labor, to promote the advancement of his holy religion. Generous, kind, and benevolent, the natives not only revered him, as their spiritual father and friend, but seemed almost to adore him. He was universally beloved, and the neighboring village bore testimony to his charitable heart, while many a transient traveller blessed him, and thanked God, that such a man existed among them. The Mission of St. Jose was founded in 1797, and had, at this time, a population of about two thousand In- dians. It possesses some of the best lands in the coun- try for agricultural purposes, from which is obtained an immense quantity of grain. It frequently supplies the Russian company, who yearly send three or four large ships for stores for their northern settlements. In the rear of the establishment, is a large reservoir of excellent water, which is carried, through pipes, to the gardens, and other parts of the Mission. In front of the church is a very neat fountain, and also conveniences for washing and bathing. In point of beauty, the buildings liere were very inferior to those of the southern missions. Dura- 76 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. bility and convenience alone, seem to have been consult- ed in their construction, and they mostly, presented a very ordinary appearance. Time passed swiftly during my stay with the old friar, and I left him with regret. It was late in the day, and the sky was clouded ; yet fearing no danger from a storm, off I galloped to the landing-place, where I em- barked in a small boat, with four Indians to row me to the ship. Arriving at the mouth of the creek, we tarried there until the tide had risen, to take advantage of the entire ebb, and to put off as soon as the water slack- ened. The wind blew fresh from the southeast, the rain drizzled, and everything foretold a disagreeable night. However, we pushed off; but by the time we had reached the middle of the bay, the rain increased, and darkness closed around us. As the wind was fa- vorable, we rigged the boat-hook for a mast, and taking the blanket of one of the Indians for a sail, we in this way proceeded admirably ; but my oarsmen soon stretched themselves in the bottom of the boat, leaving me to ac-» complish the voyage under my own management. Un- able to perceive any object beyond the boat's head, and without a compass, I was obliged to steer by the wind, and trust to the chance of its steadiness. In this di- lemma, I remained for some hours in extreme doubt as to my whereabouts, often imagining I felt a gradual increase of the swell, which betokened an approach to the sea. At last, I caught a glimpse of the land. This gave me encouragement to proceed, and though igno- LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 77 rant of the localities of the place, yet presuming this to be the " Mission Point," I bore away for the ship's anchor- age. A few minutes of great anxiety passed, when a sudden shock fully determined the fact. Our boat had struck the vessel amidships, luckily however without sufficient force to do us injury. The Indians, supposing we had struck a rock, started up in terror, but how great ivas their surprise, when, on looking up, they beheld the side of our noble ship. The night-watch assisted us in securing the boat alongside, and I speedily ascended to the deck. We had been four hours performing a dis- Lane of thirty miles, with a fair wind and favorable cur- rent. Had we been so unfortunate as to have missed the ship, we must have been carried out to sea. which ^vould most probably have been the last of us, but some- thing better, or worse, was reserved for our destiny. A few days, only, passed ere we were once more, and for the last time, on our way to the port of Monterey. As we beat along down from the anchorage to " Castle Point," the breeze gradually died away, and when we reached the very entrance, and narrowest portion of the bay, it ceased entirely, leaving us to the force of the stream, the strength of which in the centre of the chan- nel is from four to six knots an hour. On both sides are very strong eddies, and the junction of the waters from the northern and southern basins forms a mul- titude of whirlpools of such strength that vessels when becalmed are frequently driven by them upon the rocks. In such cases one or two boats in advance of the ship, to 8* 78 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. keep her in range with the current, is of the utmost im- portance. After passing the low point south of " Wha- ler's Harbor," where may be seen a ^w rocks, no danger need be apprehended of striking the northern shore, for the course of the current will take every thing clear of the rocks, and the soundings are deep. We passed so near with our ship, of four hundred tons, that I could have jumped upon the projecting points. Five miles outside of the castle, the soundings lessen considerably, and good anchorage may be found in from five to ten fathoms. Here we came to, and w^aited for a breeze, as there is danger along the shore at the south of the port, unless the vessel has a good offing, for the swell sets directly upon the land. We did not wait long. The sea breeze soon set in, we continued our course, and the next morning found us busily em- ployed at Monterey. Having progressed thus far on our voyage, it was ne- cessary to make arrangements for the disembarkation and storage of our cargo remaining unsold. Santa Barbara, on account of its central situation and quiet character of its population, was determined upon as the most suitable location, but it was necessary to ascertain if a building could be procured of sufficient capacity. For this reason I was obliged to proceed thither with all possible haste, G accompanying me as far as the Mission of La Soledad. It was about nine o'clock in the morning when we started, and a few leagues of pleasant riding, mostly LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 79 through dense woods, brought us to Buena Vista, the farm of Don Mariano Estrada. Here we ahghted, and found the old gentleman at dinner. He had just commenced, and was tasting " la tasa de caldo," a bowl of soup. His invitation t^ partake of his cheer we accepted, and seated ourselves at the table. We found him rather a lover of good eating, and, indeed, one would suppose that this remark might apply to all Californians, for the lowest personage must have his three or four different dishes. Their olla^ azados^ giiisados, B.ndfrijoles, are found at every board. Din- ner concluded, we took leave of Buena Vista and con- tinued our journey. Our road was quite level the whole distance, and wound along the base of a long range of hills, which run parallel with the sea-coast. A river flowed through the valley, emptying into the bay of Monterey, upon the bank of which was a farm- house belonging to the Mission of Carmelo; this, and a few small huts scattered in our route, were the only buildings we passed in our ride. It was near sun- down when we arrived and dismounted at the door of La Soledad. The gloomiest, bleakest, and most abject- looking spot in all California ! This mission was founded in 1791 ; and, although it presents a very unpromising aspect to the traveller from the gloominess of its exterior, its interior exhibits a striking contrast. A pious old man controls its con- cerns, and pours out to his guests with free hospital- ity the abundance thereof His charities, his good- 80 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. ness, and meekness of character are proverbial; and to have known the old Padre Seria was a happiness in- deed. For many yeai-s he was Prefect of the Missions, and still exercised this function while attending to the spiritual, as well as tMfe temporal affairs of his own es- tablishment. In the kindness of his heart, he gave me a letter of introduction to the priests of the other Mis- sions, requesting their assistance and hospitality during my journey. The next day I took leave of G and set out for the Mission of St. Antonio, ten leagues distant from La Soledad. A vaquero accompanied me as guide. We travelled slowly, owing to our miserable horses, and the almost impracticable state of the road which in many places extended across the mountains in narrow path- ways, and was so obstructed with rocks, that I was obli- ged every few moments to dismount and walk. Thus we toiled on ; and in this way we performed the greater part of our journey until we arrived at the top of the mountains and began to descend on the other side. The descent was so gradual that we put our horses to the gallop without danger or fear of their stumbling. This soon brought us to the neat little Mission of St. Antonio, which was the first mark of civilization we had met with during the ride. It is built of brick, with an arched corridor similar to the other missions, and was established in the year 1771. Padre Pedro Cabot, the present missionary director, I found to be a fine, noble-looking man, whose manner and whole LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 81 deportment would have led one to suppose he had been bred in the courts of Europe, rather than in the cloister. Everything was in the most perfect order : the Indians cleanly and well dressed, the apartments tidy, the work- shops, granaries, and store-houses comfortable and in good keeping. Whilst taking chocolate, my host sent for the vaquero who was to accompany me in the next day's journey, to give him some instructions ; and I took occasion to slip out after him, to urge the procu- ring of good horses, and the necessity of having them ready at early dawn. Soon after supper I retired to my quarters, and having arranged everything for an early start, getting my saddle, luggage, (fcc, conveniently together, sprang into bed, closed my eyes, and slept till aroused by a rap at the door and a voice calling " Se- ilor ! Sefior ! it is daybreak." As I went forth the hght was just peeping over the eastern hills, and our horses stood impatiently pawing the ground in the courtyard. I sprang into the saddle, and hastened our departure ; for I intended to perform, if possible, a two day's moderate journey in the next twelve hours. Our horses were excellent ; and we galloped briskly over a smooth and level road for se-steral leagues, with- out checking their speed, except to ford a small river, or ascend a few hills in the vicinity of the Mission of St. Miguel. From the tops of these we saw spread out before us a charming valley, through which our course lay. It was near mid-day when we descended the last hill, and rode up to the house. Father Juan Cabot, 82 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. its director, was absent, having gone to pass a few days with the padre of St. Luis Obispo. So I repaired to the mayordomo, presented my letter, and requested im- mediate despatch. As it was necessary to send some distance for his horses, the delay of a couple of hours, ere they were procured, gave me ample time to look about the Mission. Like that of St. Awtonio, it possess- ed few resources, owing to its distance from the sea- coast, and the moderate extent of its domains. It was founded in the year 1797 ; and is built near the ex- tremity of a small pass through the hill, where the sun casts its burning heat in a degree almost insufferable. They say there, in proof of the warmth of the Mission, that the fleas carmot endure the summer months, and during the heat of the day may be seen gasping upon the brick pavements ! At the distance of about five leagues is a beautiful little bay called St. Simeon. Its anchorage is safe, and well protected from the winds, yet it is seldom visited by navigators. Having already ridden fourteen leagues, I felt little inclined to extend my journey farther,, for my whole frame seemed as if it had undergone a severe pummel- ling, but ambitious to achieve my morning's underta- king, I again set off, following close at the heels of my guide. Shortly after our departure we reached a place where a sulphurous hot spring boiled up from the ground, and formed a little rivulet which crossed the road. Father Juan had erected a small house over the spot for the purpose of shelter, and convenience for LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 83 bathing", and it was resorted to by many persons, suffer- ing with rheumatic disorders, who generally obtained immediate relief. We afterwards stopped at the sheep farm belonging to the Mission of St. Miguel, where were two large houses and a number of straw huts. Gar- dens were attached to them, in which a variety of vege- tables were cultivated by the Indians, who were there as keepers of eight or ten thousand sheep. Some distance off, on the other side of the valley, was a vine- yard of excellent grapes, from which were annually made considerable quantities of wine and brandy. Fur- ther on, some three or four leagues, we reached "el rancho de Santa Margarita," a place used for the culti- vation of grain, where, on an eminence that overlooked the grounds, an extensive building was erected. It was divided into store-rooms for different kinds of grain, and apartmerits for the accommodation of the mayor- domo, servants, and wayfarers. At one end was a chapel, and snug lodging-rooms for the priest, who, I was informed, frequently came and passed some weeks at the place during the time of harvest ; and the holy friars of the two missions occasionally met there to ac- knoAvledge to each other their sins. - Here our horses were changed, and a smart gallop through forests of pine and oak, brought us soon to the ascent of a rough-looking hill, called " la cuesta de St. Luis." Notwithstanding its rugged appearance, we easily surmounted it, and arrived at the Mission of St. liuis 84 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Obispo, situated just beyond it. The sun was yet high above the hills, and we had journeyed, since morning, over eighty miles. I was of course much fatigued, and as the Padres Joaquin Jimeno and Cabot were taking a walk in the gardens, I had a short time for repose ere they returned. The former of these was a young man, of not more than twenty-four years of age, born in Mexico, from whence he had recently come, and was now missionary of St. Luis Obispo. The other, Father Cabot, was a native of Spain, and brother to Father Pedro Cabot of St. Antonio, but as unlike him in char- acter and appearance as he could possibly have been. He v/as a tall, robust man of over fifty years, with the rough frankness of a hardy sailor, differing widely from the soft and pleasing manners of his brother, and cele- brated for his good-humor and hospitality. This Mission, though formerly a wealthy establish- ment, is now of little importance. The buildings are in a decayed state, and every thing about them appears to have been much neglected. It is surrounded by high and rocky hills, the soil of which bears the ap- pearance of containing ore of some kind. In the vicin- ity are to be found the peculiar indications of gold and silver mines. Within a short ride is the harbor of St. Luis, where, in former years, during the monopoly of the Spanish government, the old friars sometimes se- cretly purchased goods of the American trading ships. The Mission possesses excellent horses, and a great many good mules ; but, owing to want of attention, LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 85 many of them are permitted to stray away, and mix with the wild cattle of the mountains. The next morning, 1 started at daybreak with an excellent vaquero and fine horses. The road continu- ed along the Mission valley for some distance, when it suddenly changed its course for the hills, and, passing over their woody summits, descended to the sea-coast, and opened upon a smooth, sandy beach, that extended for miles to the south. Here we raced along at a rapid rate, full three leagues, till it was necessarj^ to strike off for the interior, through numerous sand-hills. Passing these, we reached an extensive plain, in the midst of which lay the cattle farm of "La Purissima," called " Guadaloupe." We found the Indians busy at their annual " matan- zas " or cattle killing. Numbers of the poor animals lay stretched upon the ground, already slaughtered ; others, just suffering under the knife of the butcher, whilst, in a spacious enclosure, hundreds were crowded for selection. The vaqueros, mounted on splendid horses and stationed at its entrance, performed by far the most important part of the labor. When the ma- yordomo pointed out the animal to be seized, instantly a lasso whirled through the air, and fell with dextrous precision upon the horns of the ill-fated beast. The horse, accustomed to the motion, turned as the lasso descended, and dragged him to slaughter. Another lasso was then thrown, which entrapped his hind leg, and threw him prostrate on the ground. In this posi- 86 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. tion he was dispatched, and the horsemen returned for another. Sometimes it happened that one would es- cape and make off for the fields, pursued by the " va- queros," who, as they rode close in full chase, swung their lassos above their heads, and threw them upon the animal's horns and neck, giving their well-trained horses a sudden check, which brought him tumbling to the earth ; or some one of the more expert would seize upon him by the tail, and, putting spurs to his horse, urge him suddenly forward, overthrowing the bull in this manner. Leaving Guadaloupe, we continued on for several leagues through the plain, then across a range of ele- vated hills, arriving at La Purissima before twelve o'clock; thus accomplishing the distance of fifty-four miles in seven hours. I made arrangements for our horses, and we started immediately after dinner for "St. Ynes," where we arrived in about three hours. Padre Bias was alone, and could not accommodate me with horses till the following morning ; but ambitious to extend the ride to Santa Barbara, I prevailed upon my " Purissima" guide to take me to the other side of the mountain. Our horses held out very Avell till we reached its base, but here began to fag a little, and with great difficulty bore us up the ascent, so that it was quite late when we reached a small hut. Being completely exhausted, I halted here for the night, and in the morning proceeded to Santa Barbara, where every thing succeeded as I wished. Within two days after LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 87 my arrival I had made arrangements for the purchase of a spacious building, and was on my way back to Monterey. I had been absent but nine days when I arrived there, and dismounted at the house of friend C . In an enclosure in the rear, a party of hunters were practising target-shooting with rifles, and appeared to have had considerable sport. A tall, gigantic Kentuckian, named Galbraith, was retiring from the scene as I entered, with extravagant boastings of his superior skill. When din- ner was over, they gaily resumed their amusement, and G and myself were invited to take part in the sport. The mark was a small, square piece of paper, of the size of a dollar, secured to a board by a pin through its cen- tre. I took my stand at forty paces, fired, and a loud shout followed. The mark was hit ! My ball had struck the pin fairly upon its head, and driven it through the board. My triumph, however, seemed to create no little jealousy on the part of our Kentuckian, who chal- lenged me to a second trial. But this was enough for me ; a chance shot had gained my victory, and I had no idea of losing my credit by a second attempt, particu- larly with a person who amused himself daily by shoot- ing off the heads of Httle " chenates" (blackbirds) at the distance of twenty paces. In the course of a week we got under way and sailed for Santa Barbara, where we arrived safely, and immediately commenced landing our cargo. Many of our packages were bulky, and it required considerable 88 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. care to get them through the surf without damage ; and owing to the distance of the ship from the shore, and the rough state of the beach at times, a fortnight elapsed ere everything was disembarked. At length the last load was deposited in the house, and the men were employed in getting on board wood and water ; this having been accomplished, the ship made sail, and^ stood out of the bay, on her way to St. Diego, where she was to take in her home cargo. The breeze was fair, and a few hours carried her iieyond the reach of our glasses. So, now I was a resident again on shore — a " comer- ciante de Santa Barbara." My house was a building of one story, containing one large room some fifty feet square, and four smaller ones. The large one was fill- ed to the roof with bales and boxes, leaving a narrow passage only for communication with the other apart- ments, which were differently occupied. One of these was fitted up "with shelves and a counter, serving as a show-room, and another I had transformed into a bed- chamber. I slept in a cot suspended from the cross- beams of the roof; and, besides the necessary furnitme of chairs, tables, looking-glass, (fcc, I had, displayed against the \\^all, two old muskets newly brightened up, two pair of pistols, and a very terrific sword. The sight of these appalling instruments was ample secu- rity against the rogues, who were generally lounging about the door, leading from the corridor to the street. I had but one companion, a servant, who had lived for many years in my father's house, and had followed me LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 89 m my wanderings. Poor David ! lie was a good, hon- est fellow, officiating in many capacities, and often re- maining in sole charge of a valuable amount of prop- erty ; but he was fated to meet a watery grave a few years afterwards, in crossing the passage from Santa Barbara to St. Buenaventura. The house united with that of my friend Daniel, whose immediate vicinity I found of great convenience, for we took our meals together ; and he was often of much assistance to me in matters of business. In fact, Daniel was a sort of factotum for the whole town, and was carpenter, or mason by turns, as his services were wanted ; for his natural ingenuity made him useful in either capacity. For our better security, I made some additions to the house, which needed also some repairs and painting, so Daniel's aid was required. A large cookhouse was built in the rear, surrounded by a high wall of brick, and the windows at the end of the house were barricaded. David attended to the painting, and very soon we had the best-looking establishment in the place. While our arrangements were going on, G was at St. Diego with the ship, superintending the stowing of the cargo. I had several letters from him, one of which informed me of the arrival, from St. Bias, of the ship Harriet, Captain F , whose elopement, and flight with his betrothed, I have mentioned in a previous chapter. His w4fe, whom he had married immediately on his arrival at Lima, he had brought with him. Don 9* 90 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Jose Maria Padres, the new Inspector General, was passenger with his family, besides over fifty prisoners, w^ho had been sent by the Mexican government ; ma- king another Botany Bay of the fair fields of California. Padres expected to have found there the new Governor, Don Manuel Victoria, who was on his way, by land, from Lower California, and who, it was reported, would again close the ports against foreign flags. G , who liad been complaining for some time of ill health, was .resolved to return home in the Brookline, to obtain medical advice, and had notified me of the determination, that I might be prepared, on his arrival, to remain alone in charge of the business. A few days after, the ship was seen in the offing. As soon as she came to, G landed and came up to the house. She had put into St. Pedro on her way up, and more hides had been embarked, which were to be cured. The old house at St. Diego had been taken down, and brought up to be erected at Santa Barbara. The carpenter im- mediately commenced operations, in laying vats, (fcc, so that in a few days the same busy scene of hide salt- ing was going on here that had been so long in process at St. Diego. At last, the hides being all cured and embarked, the day arrived for the ship's departure. With a heavy heart, and s^vimming eyes, I took leave of G , the officers, and all hope of seeing my home, my " native land" again for years. CHAPTER VII. Mass at Santa Barbara. — Yankee Ingenuity. — Riding in California. — An Indian Game. — Temescal. — Secularization of the Missions. — A New General for California. — Fire on the Mountains. — Execution of two Indians. — Sulpiiurons Spring. — A Launch. — A New Companion. — Choyas. — A Bear and Bull Bait. — Pddre Luis and his Comical En- glish. — David Douglass, Esq. — St. Juan Bautista. — Pddre Arroyo, — A Night with the Fleas. — A Californian Farm-House. — A Priest's Travelling Carriage. — An Indian Festival. The ship had gone, and a bright Sunday morning succeeded her departure. The bells were already ring- ing their first call to mass, when Daniel appeared, busily employed in making ready his wagon for a ride to the Mission. We had but time to snatch a hasty breakfast, for Father Antonio, being of delicate constitution, could not suffer a long detention from his chocolate, and until Mass had been said, he was forbidden to partake of any nourishment whatever. In consequence, the whole pop- ulation was in motion as early as sunrise, on their way to the church. At Daniel's invitation I accompanied him, and jumping into the vehicle, I seated myself by his side, and off we started. Our wagon, once a handcart, through the ingenuity of Daniel had been converted to its present use, and was 92 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. one of the many specimens of his cleverness. He had put springs to it, and contrived it that it might be drawn by one or two horses, with accommodations for four passengers. Several Jersey wagons accompanied us on the road, and one very fine-looking barouche, but none of them went off with the spirit of our own. The others were drawn mostly by mules, led along by a per- son on horseback, making rather a ludicrous appearance in comparison with the free movement of our carriages at home. The distance being short, we soon arrived at the Mis- sion, and after securing our horse to the railing of the corridor, w^e ascended the steps into the private apartment of the priest. Padre Antonio had retired for the purpose of preparing for the Mass, but we found a number of the chief men of the town, and officers of the army, seated around in familiar conversation. Among them were the Comandante, Pecheco, dressed in full uniform, Don Jose dela Guerra, a retired veteran, dressed in citizen's clothes, with two gold epaulettes, and Lieutenant Antonio Maria Valle, a Httle dried-up piece of vanity, who made up in boastful words what he lacked in physical proportions. I was a stranger to the party, and received a formal introduction to the two first mentioned. The seats were all occupied, and I saw no place for me to sit, but by lifting from the sofa the hat of Yalle, which I handed to that august personage, and squeezed myself in by his side. This was sufficient to wound his pride, and call forth a demonstration of his LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 93 dissatisfaction ; but perceiving I paid no attention to his indignation, his rage t«gan to increase, when the tolling of the bell, announcing the commencement of the cere- mony, put an end to the scene, and we passed into the church to take part in the devotion. After Mass we again repaired to the apartment of Padre Antonio, where breakfast had been prepared, and served upon a long table. All were kindly invited to partake, but as Daniel and I had already breakfasted, we declined, and taking our leave, returned home. As we rode along we had an excellent opportunity of seeing the different varieties of riding, common in the country. The universal mode of travelling, with both males and females, is on horseback ; the latter generally ride with a person behind them, who guides the horse. In this way many were returning from the Mission. Now and then we passed a poor broken-down horse with three lazy vagabonds astride him, who un- feelingly beat and spurred him onward. A few old men came trotting along, who from their firm manner of riding with their legs clinging to the sides of their horses, seemed almost to have grown to them. More amusing still, we saw many children of not more than three or four years of age, two or three together on one horse, who appeared as secure in their seats as the old men who Uved all their lives in the saddle. The young commence thus early their lessons in horseman- ship, and when despatched by their parents on some errand, the two more expert riders seat the youngest 94 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. between them, and go tearing across the country with- out the least apprehension, notP unfrequently with a bullock's hide dragging over the ground behind them. Both young and old are passionately fond of riding, and rarely go from one house to another, no matter how short the distance, except on horseback. Many take their meals in the saddle, and the pqpr animal is fortu- nate if he gets either food or drink till late at night, when his master quits his back for his bed and retires to repose. I sat down at my door on my return, to enjoy the following lively scene. In the front of the house was a large square, where the Indians assembled on Sun- day afternoons, to indulge in their favorite sports and pursue their chief amusement — gambling. Here num- bers were gathered together in little knots, who ap- peared engaged in angry conversation ; they were ad- justing, as Daniel informed me, the boundary lines for the two parties who were to play that mfternoon at ball, and were thus occupied till dinner time. When I re- turned from dinner they had already commenced, and at least two or three hundred Indians of both sexes were engaged in the game. It was the " Presidio" against the " Mission." They played with a small ball of hard wood, which, when hit, would bound with tremendous force without striking the ground for two or three hundred yards. Great excitement prevailed, and immense ex- ertion was manifested on both sides, so that it was not LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 95 till late ill the afternoon that the game was decided in iavor of the Indians of the Presidio. Many of the Indians retked afterwards to the enjoy- ment of their Temescal or hot air baths, which is their usual resort after fatigue, and is the sovereign remedy ,for nearly all their diseases. A round hovel or oven of mud is built, generally, over an excavation in the ground. An opening is left in the roof for the escape of the smoke, and one at the side, for entrance. As many persons as it can conveniently hold, enter, and make a fire close to the door on the inside. They con- tinue to add fuel to the flame till they can no longer bear the intense heat, which throws them into a pro- fuse perspiration. Thoroughly exhausted, they crawl forth from the hut, and plunge themselves headlong into the nearest stream. I have frequently seen the old men lying about on the floor of the oven apparent- ly bereft of all their strength, whilst some of the younger persons enjoyed it, and sang and laughed under its influence. The women also frequently make use of these baths, repeating them till their diseases are cured. A few weeks passed away, and we received intelli- gence of the arrival of the ship Harriet at Monterey. The captain had been arrested by order of General Echeandia, and was separated from his wife for having dared to break through the required formalities attached to the marrying of foreigners. They were to be thus separated until their arrival at the Mission of St. 96 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Gabriel, where the missionary president resided. Here, after complying with the requisitions of the chm*ch, they were to be remarried. It is uncertain whether the cause of so much trouble and annoyance to F originated in the special care of the ecclesiastical func- tionary for the fair Californian, or was the consequence of the open violation of the law. Perhaps the parents may have been dissatisfied ^t^ith the elopement, and for their better satisfaction had solicited the interference of the constituted authorities. Rumors had been circulated for some days past that the soldiers and convicts meditated a revolt, in order to rob and murder the foreign residents. — A plan was de- vised by some Mazatlan troops, who came to guard the convicts. — Base cut-throats and villains ! they would have carried it into execution had they supposed them- selves sufficiently strong. — Hardly a day transpired with- out seeing them returning from the beach at evening, with their black silk handkerchiefs as banners ! em- blematical of the blackness of their intentions. — On one occasion, while celebrating the glorious 16th of Septem- ber, the annual celebration of their independence, the principal demonstrations of joy were confined to the square of the Garrison. — The figure of a " gachupiii^^'' or Spaniard, was hung in effigy, and as the valiant " Mazatecas''' let off their rockets they cried " Death to the Spaniards and foreigners." The " Comandante^'* though particularly friendly with two respectable old Spaniards (the only ones in Santa Barbara), and ex- LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 97 tremely partial to tlie foreigners, yet was beheld in the midst of the crowd, as if foremost among the revellers. The American residents were all well armed, and ready to unite on the first alarm. A large church bell, which had been suspended from one of the cross-beams of ray store-room, was by agreement intended to an- nounce the least appearance of treachery, for, as here lay the greatest temptation, undoubtedly here would have been the first point of attack. The new Inspector, Jose Maria Padres, pretending to take much interest in bettering the condition of the natives, soon commenced a work of destruction, under the name of reform. The act for the secularization of the Missions, passed by the Mexican Congress on the 13th September, 1813, was now put in force, and, through the ready compliance of Echeandia, par- tially carried into effect. In some of the Missions the Indians abandoned their labor, and, when chastised, in- sulted the priests. These flourishing institutions, as they had been, were in danger of immediate subversion and ruin. Through the encouragement of Echeandia, vice of all kinds had become prevalent, and the poor misguided Indians saw in the terms libre and indepen- dente a sort of license for the indulgence of every pas- sion. But, fortunately for the country, at this crisis the new General, Don Manuel Victoria, arrived at Santa Barbara, on the 10th of January, 1831, on his way to the seat of government, at Monterey. 10 98 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Senor Victoria was a tall, lean, half Indian kind of person, with sufficient resolution and courage to consti- tute him, in his own opinion, a legion amongst this unsophisticated race of Californians. He came unat- tended, and required no ceremonious reception. As soon as he received the command from Echeandia, his first step was to counteraot the ruinous effects of the impru- dence of his predecessor, and to restore the Missions to their former state. Echeandia retired to St. Diego ; and Padres to St. Francisco, where he remained some time, sowing seeds of discord and discontent among the in- habitants, till ordered to Santa Barbara, where he was put on board a vessel for St. Bias. About this time we were much alarmed, in conse- quence of the burning of the woods upon the moun- tains. For several days the smoke had been seen to rise from the distant hills of St. Buenaventura, and gradually approach the town. At last it had reached the confines of the settlement, and endangered the fields of grain, and gardens. Soon it spread low upon the hills, and notwithstanding a strong westerly wind was blowing, the flames travelled swiftly to windward, con- suming everything in their course. It was late at night when they reached the rear of the town, and as they furiously wreathed upwards, the sight was magnificent, but terrible. The wind blew directly upon the town, and the large cinders that fell in every direction seemed to threaten us with certain destruction. The air was too hot to breathe. The inhabitants fled from their LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 99 homes to the beach, or sought the house of Senor No- riega, where prayers were offered and the saints suppli- cated. The vessels at anchor in the bay were also much endangered, for their decks were literally covered with the burning cinders, and their crews incessantly employed in keeping them wet. During the entire night the ravages of the fire continued, and when day- light broke it had seized upon the vineyard belonging to the Mission. Here the green state of vegetation somewhat checked its progress, and it passed over to the mountains again, to pursue its course northward. On the uplands every thing was destroyed, and, for months afterwards, the bare and blackened hills marked the course of the devastating element. The character of our new Governor soon began to reveal itself, in the execution of his determined spirit to do justice. Two Indians, who had been convicted of cattle stealing, were, by his orders, publicly shot in the Presidio of Monterey ; thus effectually putting a stop to robberies of all kinds. But an act so rash and hasty was likely to destroy his popularity, and materially injure his career in California, although the result was so beneficial to the community. The act was uncon- stitutional, and served, among the discontented spirits of the country, to hasten the revolution, the germ of which Padres had left behind him. A few leagues from Santa Barbara is a hot spring, where the inhabitants resort in some cases of disease. I accompanied a few friends to the place, one of whom 100 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. was desirous of proving its efficacy in curing rheuma- tism. We rode across the little settlement of Monte- cito, and soon came to a rough and narrow passage leading to the mountains, which we ascended till the path became so intricate that it was impossible to pro- ceed further on horseback ; so dismounting and securing our horses, we walked to the spring, where the waters were boiUng up Avith much force. The place was very- rocky, and the stream had washed away the earth, forming numerous cavities sufficiently large to contain one person. These were filled with water of different temperatures, varying according to the distance from the source of the spring, which in some places was so hot that I could not bear my hand in it. There are a few shanties on the spot for the accommodation of fami- lies, who frequently pass several days there during the summer months. After bathing, we returned home to the town, much enervated from the peculiar charac- ter of the waters. A launch was to take place at St. Pedro, of the sec- ond vessel ever constructed in California. She was a schooner of about sixty tons, that had been entirely framed at St. Gabriel and fitted for subsequent com- pletion at St. Pedro. Every piece of timber had been hewn and fitted thirty miles from the place, and brought down to the beach iq^on carts. She was called the " Guadaloupe," in honor of the patron saint of Mexico ; and as the affair was considered quite an important era in the history of the country, many were invited from LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. lOi far and near to witness it. Her builder was a Yankee, named Chapman, who had served his apprenticeship with a Boston boat-builder. He was one of the crew on board the piratical cruiser that attacked Monterey, at which time he was taken prisoner, and had lived in the country ever since. From his long residence, he had acquired a mongrel language ; English, Spanish, and Indian being so intermingled in his speech, that it was difficult to understand him. Although iUiterate, his great ingenuity and honest deportment had acquired for him the esteem of the Californians, and a con- nection in marriage with one of the first families of the country. Father Sanchez, of St. Gabriel, used to say that Chapman could get more work out of the Indians in his unintelligible tongue than all the mayor- domos put together. I was present on one occasion, when he wished to despatch an Indian to the beach, at St. Pedro, with his ox-wagon, charging him to re- turn as soon as possible. His directions ran somewhat in this manner. " Ventui^a ! vamos ! trae los biieyes go down to the Playa^ and come back as quick as you can puede.^^ I visited St. Diego about this time, stopping on the route at St. Pedro. My companion was Ferdinand Deppe, a fine gentlemanly fellow, a native of Germany, who was agent for a Mexican house, and was there conducting the business of the ship Harriet. It be- ing late in the day when we started, he proposed ta- king a short cut across the hills, which brought us into 10* 102 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. the midst of a large tract covered with choyas, or prick- ly pears. They had wounded my horse's legs severely, and he commenced plunging and jumping ; at every movement, adding to his own pains, and increasing my danger. After much trouble, we got clear of the abomi- nable place, and I dismounted to overhaul and examine the extent of damage. My horse had sticking to the inner side of his thighs and legs a multitude of the heads of the choyas, w^hich, with a stick, I prepared to remove. At the very first effort I Avas rewarded by a presentation of both heels of the animal, which struck me just below the groin, and laid me prostrate on the ground. Deppe was amazed, and believed me killed, but a few moments convinced him of his mistake. I was considerably lamed, and having exchanged horses with him, we rode along slowly to the beach. The " Harriet" lay at anchor, and the new schooner " Guada- loupe" had just left the inner harbor for the usual place of anchorage. Several days elapsed ere I could walk, and I ever after looked upon the choyas with an evil eye. No other incident worthy of notice occurred during my journey, and I returned to Santa Barbara, after a pleasant trip, in time to witness a bull and bear bait that was to take place at the Mission, the day fol- lowing. Old Bruin was first, however, to be caught, and about a dozen vaqiieros, with their mayordomo, started off to entrap him. On such occasions, a bright moon- LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 103 light niglit was always selected, and their usual mode of securing him was as follows. In some remote spot which the bears most frequented, a bullock was slain and his carcass left exposed. At an early hour the In- dians repaired to some neighboring concealment where they watched the bear's approach, which was announ- ced by the howling of wolves, and the noise of im- mense numbers of coyotes. He usually crept along sus- piciously towards the bait, and while eagerly engaged in consuming it, the Indians suddenly pounced upon him from their ambush, and with their lassos thrown around his neck, tumbled him to the ground. Often- times at the approach of his pursuers he w^ould rise on his hind legs, prepared for defence, when the lassos were either broken or forced from the rider. The expert va- qiiero, however, generally succeeded, and poor Bruin, foaming with rage, gagged, and secured with a dozen lassos, was drawn to the Mission ; either upon a low, iwo-wheeled cart, or a large bullock's hide. Success had attended them on this occasion, and at sunrise a large grey bear was secured to a tree in front of the Mission. It was past noon when I rode up and dismounted to look at the poor condemned brute, who, almost exhausted with heat and rage, seemed hardly competent to the trial that awaited him. Persons were standing around, thrusting pointed sticks into his sides, till the madness of the infuriated animal knew no bounds. A sailor, rather the worse for " aguar- diente," reeled up to take part in the fun, and with his i04 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. recklessness and wit added infinitely to the amusement. At length an unfortunate stagger brought him within reach of Bruin's paw, who seized him by the leg and drove his teeth quite through the calf. With extreme difiiculty, they rescued him from his danger, and a skilful practitioner happening to be near, the wound was immediately sewed up. The time arrived 'for the sport to commence, and every one repaired to a large square, formed by the junction of the long corridor with a temporary fence of poles. The bear, still encumbered with his fastenings^ was first brought in, and then the bull came plunging into the enclosure, as if a match for a dozen such oppo- nents. A lasso was fastened to the hind leg of the bear^ leaving his fore paws at liberty for defence, and con- necting with one of the bull's fore legs, so contrived as to give them a scope of about twenty feet for manoeuvring. This being accomplished, the other fastenings were re- moved, and the two terrified creatures remained sole occupants of the square. The bull roared, pawed the earth, flung his head in the air, and at every move- ment of his opponent seemed inclined to escape, but the lasso checked his course", and brought them both with a sudden jerk to the ground. Bruin, careless of the scene around him, looked with indifference upon his enemy, seemingly too exhausted to bear the strug- gle, but the jerk of the lasso aroused him as if to a sense of danger, and he rose up on his hind legs, in the posture of defence. At this moment, the bull LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 105 rushed upon him, and with his sharp horns seemed to have gored him through ; but not so, for a mournful bellow told his situation. The bear had seized upon him by the nose, whilst his paws clung around his horns. A sudden exertion, however, liberated the bull from this embrace, and .a second plunge drove his horns half way through his enemy's side, and tossed him high in the air, whence he fell powerless to the ground. One or two more successful attacks decided the fate of Bruin, and he was dragged from the arena, covered with numerous and ghastly wounds. The conflict in this case had been short, owing to the ex- hausted condition of the bear ; but, on some occasions, it was continued even to the exhausting of a second bull ; this was rare, however, and more frequently a strong bull was able to cope with two such adversaries. On this occasion every body attended, as is customary in all their amusements, and men, women, and chil- dren took part in the discussions relative to the fight. Such exhibitions served for a topic of conversation amongst all classes for months afterwards, and the per- formance elicited as much applause as is usually be- stowed on the triumph of some great actor in the thea- tres of our own country. A slight misunderstanding in trade with one of the priests of San Francisco rendered it advisable that I should visit the north, and accordingly, having made all necessary arrangements, I was soon on my way for that quarter. Arriving at the Mission of St. Luis 106 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Obispo on the second day of my journey, how great was my surprise, on riding up to the corridor, to be saluted by the Padre in my own language. " How do you do, sir ? Very good oysters, Mr. Fish ! come iii ! May the devil skin you to make your mother a night- cap !" The most outrageous oaths rattled from his tongue with most amusing volubihty. At last, tired of his display in English, he abandoned it for a lan- guage more harmonious in sound, and in which he was more competent to converse. The mystery was soon solved. An eccentric old Scotchman, named Mul- hken, had resided with him a number of years during his administration of the Mission of Santa Cruz, and had amused himself in his leisure moments by adding to the old friar's limited stock of English ; who, poor man ! profoundly ignorant of the 7'eal meaning of his salutations, thought he had addressed me in the most civil and courteous manner ! Father Luis had re- cently taken charge of this establishment, and Padre Jimeno had gone to the Mission of St. Luis Rey. Everything was in fine order, and the hospitality of the new director equalled that ever bestowed by his predecessor. Horses were furnished me on the morning following, and I continued my journey to Monterey. Three days afterwards, late at night and suffering with cold, I rode into the town. Soon after my arrival friend Deppe appeared as a visitor, and agreed to accompany me to the Missions of Santa Clara and St. Jose, for the annual feast of the LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 107 latter was to be celebrated soon with considerable pomp, and he had much wished to witness a festival of the Indians. I found a new resident at Monterey — David Douglas, Esq., a naturahst from Scotland, who had been inde- fatigable in his researches throughout the northern regions of America, and was adding to his treasure the peculiar productions of California. I was told he would frequently go ofi', attended only by his little dog, and with rifle in hand search the wildest thicket in hopes of meeting a bear; yet the sight of a bullock grazing in an open field was to him more dreadful than all the terrors of the forest. He once told me that this was his only fear, little thinking what a fate was in reserve for him. He went afterwards from Monterey to the Sandwich Islands. One morning he was found at the bottom of a pit which had been prepared as a trap for wild bulls. It is supposed that from curiosity he had approached too near to get a sight of the furious animal that had been ensnared, and the earth giving way, precipitated him below. The merciless brute had gored him to death. His faithful little dog was found near the spot, watching a basket of his collections. After two days' detention at Monterey I started off with Deppe on our way to St. Francisco. The com- mencement of the journey was along a sandy road, over numerous hills that gave us a fine view of the bay and shipping at anchor. Several scattered huts, gra- zing cattle, and now and then a deer enlivened the 108 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. scene. A few leagues brought us to an extensive plain, which we crossed, and entered upon a narrow road lead- ing, through a range of beautiful green hills, to the Mission of St. Juan Bautista. An alameda, or shaded walk, of some length, gave access to the establishment, on each side of which were gardens and cultivated fields. This Mission was founded in the year 1797, and had in 1831 a population of about twelve hundred civil- ized Indians. It is conveniently located in the centre of a valley, with an abundance of rich land and large stocks of cattle. Padre Fehpe Arroyo was the mission- ary, whose infirm state of health kept him confined closely to his chamber. For amusement, when tired of study, he called in the children of the place and set them to dancing and playing their games. In his ec- centric taste he had given them the names of all the renowned personages of antiquity, and Ciceros, Platos, and Alexanders were to be found in abundance. A particular regard for us procured from the old gentle- man a sleeping apartment adjoining his own, not usu- ally bestowed upon travellers. When we retired, how- ever, we were surprised to find no sheets upon the bed, but in their stead, coarse blankets. Shut out from any means of access to the other parts of the building, except through the room of the Padre, it was impossible to remedy the deficiency. Our light was extinguished, and soon Deppe's nasal organs announced how deep was his repose ; but I lay restless and uneasy. I could LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 109 not sleep ; the blankets pricked my flesh, the room was warm, and at times it would seem as if a thousand needles penetrated my legs and sides. Can it be the blankets, thought I, or are they filled with fleas ; and if so, how is it that Deppe sleeps so sound. The more I reasoned, the more horrible became my situation, and I feared I was to become a martyr to never-ending tor- tures. They were fleas indeed ! and it appeared to me as if they came in armies to glut their appetites with human blood ! It was terrifying ! for I thought they would surely suck me dry before morning, and I jumped with horror from the bed to the floor. But it was like jumping " out of the frying-pan into the fire," for the floor was of tile, and the crevices their place of abode. I felt them jump upon my legs and feet, and reaching down my hand, 1 swept them off" by dozens. The bed was least exposed on this account, so back I got, Avhen a sudden twitch of Deppe's frame, and an extra snore, or snort^ revealed his sanilar fate. Rolling about from side to side, he could suffer no longer in silence, but cried out " Carramba ! what de divil is in de bed ? ' " Fleas !" said I, "ha ! ha ! fleas ! and they will devour us before morning !" Thus the whole tedious night was passed in scratching and complaining till morning broke, when, worn out with fatigue and loss of sleep, we finally closed our eyes and slept till roused to chocolate. As we passed the old friar, on our way to the breakfast- room, his friendly inquiries were incessant. " Buenos dias ! como pasaron vmds. la noche ?" To which I 11 110 , LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. would have frankly replied, but politeness forbade, and a shrug of the shoulders brought forth the feeble and laconic answer, " Bien ! gracias !" The whole country is infested with fleas, and it is a rare thing to find a house without them, so that the natives have become accustomed to their bite, and think nothing of it. » After this trial, I set myself down as fit to compete with any native, and really thought, since passing such a night, I could bear as much as the thick- est skinned among them. By the time we got through with our chocolate the horses were at the door, and we hastened to take leave of Padre Arroyo. The usual formalities of leave-taking having passed, we mounted and rode along with our va- quero on a pleasant gallop, till we had crossed the plain, when we came to a river, which had been concealed till now by the density of the trees. It was the River " Pajaro," which we Avere obliged to ford, and which, during the rainy season, becomes at times impassable. Having accomplished this, we crossed several hills, and stopped at the house of a Yankee carpenter, who had been several years in the country, and had married a Californian wife — a clever, good-natured mechanic, Avhose only fault (that of intemperance) had prevented his advancement in life, and kept him, as he ever will be, in an embarrassed situation. His ingenuity had given him a wooden house, a novelty in California, and the chairs and tables bore testimony to his industry. His wife gave us some milk, with bread and cheese, of LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Ill which we partook, and continued on our route.- From this place we rode through a flat, level country, of fif- teen or twenty miles in extent, w4iere, on each side, ranged high hills and mountains. These were covered with pines ; and on the level below were thousands of scattered oaks. A flock of antelopes crossed our path as we rode along, and away they scampered for the moun- tains. These were the first I had seen in the country, as they are not numerous at the south. At length the highland on each side closed to a narrow passage, and we ahghted at the farm-house of a CaUfornian. As we rode up to the entrance, a score of dogs came rushing out, as if to annihilate us, but a gentle reproof from the master, who appeared at the door, called them oflf, and we entered. This cottage was built of sticks, covered over w^ith mud, and the roof with " brea." There were but two apartments, and these were occu- pied with several neat and comfortable beds. An ele- gance was displayed here which surprised me ; but after- wards, I learned that it was no uncommon thing to find laces and satins in the houses of the most needy. All their food was cooked outside of the house, and a few paces in front stood a garden, Avhere vegetables were raised. A few of the tamest of the farmer's cattle were grazing around the house, and several young calves were shut up in a small enclosure. Dinner was pre- pared for us — horses were proffered to assist us on the journey, and, as usual among these hospitable people, no recompense was required. 112 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. It was growing late, and we started for the Mission of Santa Clara, which is about twenty leagues distant from St. Juan. A short ride brought us to the " Pueblo de San Jose," when we quickly passed up through the beautiful " Alameda," and stopped at the door of the Mission. Being the festival eve, many of the Indians were starting off in numbers ; and ere the sun had set, hun- dreds were upon the road for St. Jose. Father Viader was to go in the morning, before breakfast, and, it being but a short ride, we concluded to remain and accom- pany him. The morning presented the same lively scene of people going to the feast ; and, at an early hour, the Padre's carriage was brought to the door. It was a singular contrivance, invented by himself, and built by the Indian mechanics under his direction — a narrow body, of sufficient width for one person only, hung on a pair of low wheels ; and the whole frame was covered with brown cotton. The seat, well stuffed with lambs' wool, served to compensate for the absence of springs ; and the harness, which he had made from green hide, twisted into rope, though not very ornamental, was sufficiently strong, and answered every purpose. All being in readiness. Padre Viader got into his car- riage. We mounted our horses, and off we started in grand equestrian order. The carriage was drawn by a line black mule, astride of which sat a Uttle Indian boy, who assisted in guiding the animal, in connection with a more experienced Indian, who, mounted on a LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 113 fiery steed, led the mule with a " reata" fastened about his neck. On each side were two " vaqueros," with lassos fixed to the axletree, by which they facilitated the movement of the carriage over the road, and essen- tially aided the mule in ascending steep places. Three or four of the priest's pages attended him also ; and in the rear followed a number of Alcaldes of the Mission. All were attired for the occasion, and from their hats Avere flowing red and blue ribbons, which, like pennons, fluttered in the wind. A quick movement brought us to a view of the Mis- sion from a neighboring rising ground, from whence we saw the gathering multitude ; and as we approached nearer, the bells of the church rang a merry peal, in honor to the priest, which continued until the two mis- sionary brothers were fast locked in an embrace 5 when the ringing ceased, and we retired within. It is a prevaihng custom at every town or mission in the country to give this demonstration of respect to the holy friar ; and not unfrequently many of the inhabit- ants go out to meet him, and escort him to his quarters. This respectful observance to a priest rather provoked the jealousy of one of the Mexican governors, w^ho, in a circular to this holy brotherhood, ordered that the bells should be rung whenever he approached their Mis- sions. The order was complied with, and has been observed to his successors down to the present day. Mass was soon commenced, and Padre Viader at the usual period of the ceremony ascended the pulpit, and 11* 114 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. delivered an explanatory sermon relative to the celebra- tion of the day. The music was well executed, for it had been practised daily for more than two months un- der the particular supervision of Father Narciso Duran. The number of the musicians was about thirty ; the instruments performed upon were violins, flutes, trum- pets, and drums ; and so acute was the ear of the priest that he would detect a wrong note on the part of either instantly, and chide the erring performer. I have often seen the old gentleman, bareheaded, in the large square of the Mission beating time against one of the pillars of the corridor, whilst his music was in rehearsal. After mass was concluded we passed out of the church to the priest's apartment through a shower of rockets, which were fired off incessantly in every direction. Din- ner was served early to give us time to witness the per- formances of the Indians ; and as there were many strangers at the Mission, a very lengthy table had been prepared, so as to accommodate all. An abundance of good things appeared and disappeared, till at length the cloth was removed ; cigars were smoked, and the good old friars retired to enjoy their " siesta," whilst we re- paired to the front corridor to behold the fun. At a signal from their " Capitan," or chief, several In- dians presented themselves at the corner of one of the streets of the " Rancheria" and gradually approached to- wards us. They were dressed with feathers, and painted with red and black paint : looking like so many demons. There were several women amongst them. Soon they LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 115 formei.1 a circle, and commenced what they called dan- cing, which was one of the most ludicrous specimens of grotesque performance I had ever seen. It did not ap- pear to me that they had any change of figure whatever ; but fixed to one spot, they beat time with their feet to the singing of half a dozen persons who were seated upon the ground. When these had performed their part, they retired to an encampment beyond the build- ing and another party appeared, painted and adorned rather differently from the former, whose mode of dan- cing, also, was quite dissimilar. They retired after a w^hile, and arrangements were made for a bear fight. Whilst these amusements were going on, the Padres had risen, and we were called to chocolate ; but the enthu- siasm of the Indians hardly gave us time to finish, when we heard them crying " Aqui traen el oso !" He was soon ready, though almost dead from confinement, and the bull made but a few plunges, ere he laid him stiff upon the ground. This part of the amusement conclu- ded, Deppe and I walked to the encampment, where the Indians were dancing in groups, as we had seen them at the Mission. Around the large space which they occu- pied were little booths, displaying a variety of orna- ments, seeds, and fruit. All was hilarity and good feel- ing ; for the prudence of Father Narciso had forbidden the sale of liquor. At sundown the bells were rung — rockets were let off — guns were fired ; and long after sup- per, at a late hour of the night, we could hear from our beds the continued shouts of the multitude. 116 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. We returned safe to Santa Clara early on the fol- lowing morning, where I was to adjust with Father Viader the misunderstanding which had called me to the north. This required but a short explanation, for his good and yielding disposition set every thing to rights ; so I took leave of him and my friend Deppe, and departed for home. CHAPTER VIII. Interesting News. — Another Revolution. — Arrival of Gen. Victoria with Troops.— Defeat of Victoria.— His Expulsion.— A new Government — Pio Pico Governor. — Arrival of the banished Priests.— Opposition of the North to the South.— State of Santa Barbara.— A Good Joke. — Ruinous Condition of the Indians. — Sail ho ! About a month after my arrival, a ship came into port and anchored. It was the Harriet; and soon friend Deppe and Captain F made their appear- ance, coming up the street towards the house. As they drew near, F held up a letter. Supposing it was merely a communication from some one residing in the country, I took no particular notice of it, until a closer glance revealed the well known writing of G ! " Give it to me ! when did you get it ? where is it from 7 How do you do ?" I cried in a breath. Snatching it from his hand, 1 tore it open, and found that it was dated but two days back, and my old friend G was at Monterey, with a new ship from Boston, called the Cahfornia ! This was information so agreeable, that I was una- ble to sleep much during the night, and at an early hour I arose. Whilst packing up some goods, to go on board the Harriet, the door suddenly opened, and the 118 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. large, glass eyes of " Cuatro Ojos" struck full upon me. If it had been the bowsprit of his new ship, I could not have been more surprised ; however, we were soon seated together, and he explained the cause of his sud- den appearance. The General had unceremoniously taken leave of Monterey, and was on his way down, to put a stop to some revolutionary movements that were in agitation at St. Diego. His abrupt departure prevented any satisfactory arrangement with G , and this was the reason why he had come to Santa Barbara. He came passenger in a whale ship, whose captain politely landed him on his way down the coast. The General had been some days on the road, and he was looked for, hourly. The following morning, I called upon the " Coman- dante" with G , from whom we ascertained that letters had been received from Victoria, giving informa- tion of his proximity, and that he would soon be here. It was near noon, when he came riding slowly along the road to the Presidio. Twenty soldiers accompa- nied him, who were well armed and equipped for ser- vice. It was necessary to make application to him immediately, relative to business, so we repaired to his quarters, and had the good fortune to adjust every thing: to our satisfaction. The brig Plant had sailed from Boston in company with the " California," having been despatched by the owners to enable me to close up the interests of the Brooklyn voyage. By persuasion of G . I accom- LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 119 panied him back, and left instructions for the master, on his arrival, to proceed to Monterey. The same morning that we commenced our journey north, Victo- ria proceeded to the south. Upon our arrival at Monterey, immediate preparations were made for the examination of the C s' cargo, and friend Cooper's house was selected as the most conve- nient location for deposite, as well as for security. The lighter portion of the cargo had been landed, and a few days more would have accomplished its entire inspec- tion, when an extraordinary courier arrived with the intelhgence of the defeat of General Victoria, by the rebellious party. It seems that Victoria had placed implicit confidence in the faith of Don Pablo de Portilla, the " Coman- dante" at St. Diego, who had given him timely notice of the revolt, and had promised to co-operate with him in quelling the rebellion. For this reason, the General took with him but a few men ; and, pnly in consequence of the repeated solicitations of Pecheco, who had no faith in Portilla, would he consent to his going also, with a detachment of ten or a dozen more. On the 1st of December, 1831, a party of disaffected persons assembled together, and declared in favor of the late commander. General Echeandia. Don Pablo Portilla was appointed commander of the rebels. The charges of tyranny, and the unconstitutionality of Victo- ria's proceedings relative to the shooting of the Indians 120 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. at Monterey, were sufficient to increase the rebel party in great numbers, as they marched to the " Pueblo de los Angeles," where they arrived and took possession of the town. The " Alcalde" was arrested, and with an additional force of more than one hundred men, ma- king in all about two hundred, they advanced to meet Victoria, whose force was only thirty men. The parties met, and the action commenced. Vic- toria, in advance of his troop, called upon Portilla to surrender. But no ! treachery said, never ! the poor General was deceived, but he was determined to be revenged, and, rushing sword in hand upon the rebels, he shouted his little troop forward. Pecheco was in- stantly killed from a cowardly shot in the back. Vic- toria, with savage fury, dealt his blows around, till, exultingly, he sheathed his sword in the body of one bold rebel, and stretched him on the plain. The others fled in every direction, and Victoria, triumphant, march- ed his little troop through the town to the mission of St. Gabriel, where, in consequence of loss of blood from wounds which he had received, he came to a halt. The valorous party whom Victoria had defeated, again rallied, followed him to the Mission, and demanded his surrender. The poor, weak, wounded soldier ! they feared him even in his disabled state, and kept aloof, until he had sent them word that he was willing to re- sign the command, and return to Mexico. Faithfully, he kept his word ; though numerous secret solicitations came from the north for his return. Arrangements LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 121 had been made for his embarkation at St. Diego, should he yield ; and every temptation was held out for him to join his faithful adhereats at Monterey. But no ! he had passed his word ! and a retirement to the cloisters of Mexico was preferred to wreaking vengeance upon his enemies. He embarked for San Bias on board of the ship Pocahontas, in company with the Reverend Father Antonio Peyri, who, disgusted with the political changes in the country, had resigned his laborious duties as a missionary at the Mission of St. Luis Rey. I saw them both, only a few days previous to their departure, when the tear of regret coursed down the cheek of the good old friar, as he recalled to mind the once happy state of California. His great penetration of mind, led him to foresee the result of the new theory of liberty and equality, among a people where anarchy and confusion so generally prevailed, and who, at the time, were totally unprepared for, and incapable of self-government. He chose rather a retirement in poverty, than to witness the destruction and ravage that from this time ensued. This state of things rendered it necessary for me to repair to Santa Barbara, to look after our interests ; for we knew not what would be the result of this unfortu- nate change. The Plant had not arrived, and we were fearful that she might have been lost in the heavy gales off Cape Horn. The victorious party, now firmly established at " los Angeles," proceeded to form a new government, and the " Excelentisima Diputacion," by virtue of an act of the 12 122 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Legislature, named its oldest MiDister, Don Pio Pico, for Governor. Thus things were taking a pacific turn, when the news came, suddenly, of another '•' pronuncia- miento" at the north, declaring a non-recognition of the " new Government" and its acts ! Now commenced the downfall of the Missions ! Echeandia retreated to St. Juan Capistrano, Avhere he sought the co-operation of the Indians. His promises of liberty and land were sufficient to entice all from their labors, and caused the subsequent abandonment of their former pursuits. Rapine, murder, and drunkenness Avere the result ; and, in the midst, revelled the Mexican chieftain. About this period, the latter part of January, 1832, a small brig entered the desolate Bay of St. Pedro, and anchored. On the succeeding morning, two passengers were landed on the barren strand, and there left with two bottles of water and one biscuit, with nothing to protect them from the inclemency of the season. Here, more than thirty miles from any habitation, save a small hut two leagues o^, they passed a sleepless night. The casual stroll of an idle Indian in search of shells was the means of giving information to the Padre at St. Gabriel, where, through his kindness and sympathy, they found a cordial welcome. They were Messrs. Bachelot and Short, two Catholic priests, who, in con- sequence of their unpopular religion, had been forced to leave the Sandwich Islands, notwithstanding their protestations against the arbitrary measure. All re- LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 123 monstrances were useless ; they were insulted, driven on board, and the miserable craft was ordered to get ^' under way" without delay. The ship California arrived from Monterey with G on board, who gave us intelligence of the de- parture of troops, under command of Don Augustin Zaniorano. They Avere on their way down the coast, to oppose the lower party, and would rendezvous at this town. Santa Barbara is the central position in Cali- fornia, and holds the balance of power between the north and south ; so that whatever side she favored, was sure to succeed. Thus she generally remained neutral in pohtical commotions, and acquired, in conse- quence, celebrity for her good and peaceable govern- ment. An old and experienced inhabitant, Senor N , who had in earlier years filled the highest station in its pohtical and military administration, still possessed a wonderful influence over his townsmen ; for nearly all had served under his command. His superior know- ledge and prudent management, ever kept them aloof from dangerous compromises ; and on this important occasion they were to take no interest with the oppo- sing parties. The California had gone south ; and as I sat writing one afternoon, my servant David passed through the room. I indulged for amusement, now and then, in a joke with him ; so I told him " to repair to the beach, and inquire of our superintendent, how near the Plant was ; for she had been seen that morning off Point Con- 124 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. ception !" Elated with the news which I liad jocosely- given him, he started off in good-humor, and at an hour, when I had almost forgotten the circumstance, he came back with the answer, " the brig was close to the Cas- tle Point, with a very light westerly wind." Dusk shut in, and the light of the moon revealed, shooting up above the western point of the bay, -he white, hght sails of a vessel. She came in and anchored ; it was late, and no communication passed with her that night, but, to carry on the joke, I ordered David to take my horse down for the captain early in the morning. When I arose at sunrise, David had gone, and I saw through my window a brig, indeed. Soon a horseman came galloping up the road and alighted at the door ; it was the captain, and the brig was the Plant ! This was joking in earnest, I thought, and too good a joke to be lost. She had been out over seven months from Boston, owing to stress of weather and the serious dam- age she had encountered off Cape Horn. The captain^ had put back to Rio de Janeiro for repairs, and this was the cause of her detention. Her arrival, however, was " better late than never," and we proceeded to Monterey to enter her cargo. A short passage of four days only brought us to her anchorage, and on the third after our arrival, owing to the cargo being small, the duties were speedily adjusted with the " Administrador " of the Cus- toms, and we again weighed anchor for San Francisco. Here we were detained but a short time, and returned to ^nta Barbara. LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 125 The army of Zamorano was liere, and its close prox- imity to the party in " los Angeles " caused the greater portion of the latter to seek shelter farther south. This position of affairs determined Don Augustin to continue on and gain possession of '• los Angeles," which he ac- complished by sending a force under command of Don Jose M^ Ybarra. The troops remained but a few days in the place, however, when they retreated to the Mis- sion of San Fernando. The cause of which, was a se- cret compromise of Zamorano with the party below. I proceeded at this crisis of the war to the Bay of St. Pedro, where, during my stay I received letters from Monterey announcing the arrival of the brig Newcas- tle, from Boston, via the Sandwich Islands, bringing news of the embarkation of troops for California ; whicli news had been carried thither from San Bias by the brig Ivanhoe. This was the cause of much alarm to Echeandia and his party, who were draining St. Juan, and the splendid Mission of St. Luis of their richest possessions. Daily reports were received of robberies and murders, committed by the Indians at St. Diego, who were in a wretched state. At the Mission, below that place, which is called St. Miguel, they revolted and attempted to kill the priest, but he defended himself within his house, with the assistance of two soldiers, and finally drove them off. They subsequently united with Echeandia's party. Stabbings were fre- quent at St. Juan and St. Luis ; and the drunken In- 12* 126 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. dian, as he staggered along from his scene of debauch ejaculated, " Soylibre !" '• I am free !" Having a large quantity of hides and tallow depos- ited at St. Barbara when the Plant arrived, with the collections acquired up to this time, I had more than sufficient to load her for home. We proceeded, there- fore, to carry into effect the necessary preUminaries, and soon the loading commenced. One afternoon, standing on the beach in company with some friends witnessing the embarkation of the hides, all at once the cry of " Sail ho !" was given by the crew, and looking towards the point of land project- ing from the fort, we saw a vessel under full sail, stand- ing into the bay. The beautiful symmetry of her spars, sails, and rigging, added to the elegance of her hull, her trim appearance, her sky-sails and man-of- war semblance, called forth a variety of remarks from the bystanders. "My eyes !" says Jack to his ship- mate, " isn't she a clipper ?" " See ! how she throws up the suds for'ard !" and as a gust of wind struck her sails, she lay over and displayed the smooth and bright appearance of her copper. " Look at her !" continued Jack ; " she's got a driver, I know, or those flying kites wouldn't be there !" At that moment a white smoke issued from her bow ; the kites disappeared, and the report of a cannon echoed up the vale ; sky-sails, roy- als, and top-gallant studding sails, all were taken in together ! ! and as the quick reducing of her canvass brought her to her top-sails, with jib and trysail, she LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 127 slipped past the land like a duck upon the water ! " She's a splendid-looking brig, isn't she ?" says my friend R : " who can she be for ? Can she be a consort for the California ?" " I don't know," I replied ; '' but we will see as soon as she comes to anchor, if you like ; or, if you think proper, we will start now, and board her as she comes in." His assent to the proposition led us to the boat, which our boys immediately manned, and we started for the vessel. Ere we reached her, the swift movement, with which she came into port, had brought her to her place of anchorage, and as we pass- ed up her side, a tall, gentlemanly fellow came to the gangway- " My name is R ," said I, " and yours is " ii T ," said he, when a cordial conversation succeeded ; during which my friend was introduced, and we passed down into the cabiiL It was the brig Roxana, Captain F T , of Boston, which had been sent out, by our merchants, to co-operate with the California. I took my letters, together with those for G , and returned to the shore, that I might de- spatch inteUigence of the brig's arrival. A man was procured immediately to proceed to " los Angeles," and before sundown he was on his way, with the news. On the arrival of a new vessel from the United States, every man, woman, boy, and girl in the place took a proportionate share of interest as to the qualities of her cargo. If the first inquired for rice, sugar, and tobacco, the latter asked for prints, silks, and satins ; and if the boy wanted a " Wilson's cook knife," the girl 128 LIFE IN