,^^ .\^^' ^' - = o5 ^V ^ ■»^ T — ^ - = *. '^-' " .■^'' \' ,^ / ■^ .^ . \ ^ > ■> ,. '>. o. % ' ;! li ^ \ V ->, ri' ,0- .-^ .0^. :;• s^' \\ -if. A^' ^ „ „ ^- * « 1 ^ \^ ( a- c^ / ''•' s'"-" ^'"^ ^' y -V.-.-- ,, , A .'v-^ ■ "./^•^^^^ . -^^ » '^ -%^ A^^ " -'NO- vs:" "^^^ * « , ^"' <.^^' ■^^>. ^^■ - ' » a ■> \ ^ ^^^ '^_, ^ o , ^11 *^ '^. i ■/' • ,0 o -■• > ^ '/' ^\.0^~ S^ "^.. r^'^' "^ •, -N %^' .<;'■ ■X ■ A ' '"^ xV ^5 'U^ ■^ A .x^^ ^^•% V.' O' f'/- ^^,^v . X V- ^^' ..o'-^ ,-^ 5 ■>^. 0^ ■^ -T x^ % X> .A "A ^. "' O. * „ . n ^ AA <> * « , 1 - -Ol- '^, * - A^- --> /. '--''' V. ,<> ^- ^ -^^^ * o.- x"^^ . c ^-^--^ * « ' ^ ' ^<.*^- . . . , ^^/. * '' -^ ° ^ x^-^^ * A"J?-:< ^ ^ -^ c'^ * ^^.--^X .. ^. ^v, " . A A . o_ aS^ \A ^ .•*-''A'.A .^ -<) '■Sr-'\^ .'^' -x^ c^" V . .0^ ^^4 .^% %/* X>%^ " , > ^ X* ^ A^ A ' 6 * ,x^' ^^Vr"^^ -V-"" v^* *->*"^-o*^o..,A't '%4 o> ^ X' .A^^ v^^ X^?.. Ci' A ^tf-. 4''<-^ ^ ' ■■■ ^---Ai- i xo^. :l^^ ■^. '■ ^ o- 0^ %■ .i? r^-- #■ % '^ ■■<-j- ^' %..^ '■'/- ' ■=%> c.^' ■^ /■ "H. / -'.,. ,,x^^ >^- 'v.. s^^'^. -0- .,^ -N ► ,. '/. X ■^Cx3^\' 'y- V x^^ ^^ "^ ;/ ^'' V^' /', p^- ^0 O' ^y. C .-^ ■/'/ 'y- \^ , ^ \.^^ 0^ ■% .nV^' -^^ •-X 'y- y -x \' ^ ' '■ " \ ' -^ s-^'''- 'y- v^ ^>. ,v^^ y .,0^ y..^- x> ■^:, ^ ..^ ^^ C^^ 'y- o~^ '-Cv ..^ -'^t ■ -.. ,v^^ .^^^■% •'^. ,N^^ A>' -^.P >\ -X- N ,0 a. ,0 o ,.^ .0- ..\V aV-V C.. .^^ ^ , .a\^ \V 'X', ^' .0^ '<=*, * 'y- v ,0 'y- ' » 1 * ^^ ^ - ^-• , '/- ■> S " X xO"' ^^'^'^'^-^ "^^ ^~ -\'"'l The Book of Water Gardening THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING GIVING IN FULL DETAIL ALL THE PRACTICAL INFORMATION NECESSARY TO THE SELECTION, GROUPING AND SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF AQUATIC AND OTHER PLANTS REQUIRED IN THE MAKING OF A WATER GARDEN AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. AND COVERING ALL CONDITIONS FROM THAT OF THE AMATEUR WITH A FEW PLANTS IN TUBS TO THE LARGE ESTATE OR PARK BY PETER BISSET PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY HALFTONES SEVENTEEN DIAGRAMS AND TWO DOUBLE PACE PLATES NEW YORK A. T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Co. ltd. 1907 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED LIBRARY of CONGRESS! Two Copies Received j JU^ 22 190/^ » Cooynsrht Entry CLASS /^ Uc, No, COPY b. Copyright, 1905 .P , f\ ^ 0^ t'^"' A T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Co. Ltd. All Rights Reserved i2 ■w *- a B i -0 B o B -2 ^ 5 ■ti 3 3 S - 2 ^-^^ >. 3 rt O CHAPTER PAGE I Foreword 12 II Ponds and Basins 17 The Importance of a Carefully Selected Site — ^Making Artiiicial Ponds.. 17 An Excellent Material for Artiiicial Pond Making 19 Excavating 20 Natural Ponds 21 Basins for the Amateur 25 III Windbreaks and Margins 31 IV Soil • 42 Making the Compost — Fertilizers 42 Soil for Seedlings 43 V Planting and Wintering 44 Planting in Soil on Bottom of Pond 44 Planting in Soil in Boxes or Tubs 46 Cultural Directions for Aquatics 47 Wintering Tubers and Rhizomes 47 VI Hardy Water Lilies 49 Selections of the Best Hardy Water Lilies 60 VII Nelumbiums 61 Their Desirability in the Water Garden 61 In Boxes Submerged in Pond 62 Grown in Boxes or Half Barrels — Grown in Tubs on the Lawn 64 [4] CONTENTS-Continued CHAPTER PAGE VIII Heating the Tropical Lily Basin 6q IX Tender or Tropical Water Lilies 74 Day Flowering ja Night Flowering 81 X Victoria Regia 88 XI The Small Water Garden 98 Selections of the Best Water Lilies and A(iuatic Plants for the Beginner 98 XII Miscellaneous Aquatic Plants 100 XIII The Aquatic Plant Greenhouse 115 Water Lilies for Winter Flowering 121 XIV Propagation of Water Lilies 123 Raising Water Lilies from Seed 123 Propagation of Tender Water Lilies 126 By Division — Hybridizing and Seed Saving 130 Water Lilies that Bear Seed 131 XV The Commercial Cut Flower Grower 133 XVI Tender Sub-Tropical Plants for Margins and Borders 137 XVII Hardy Perennials for Margin and Border Plantinc 144 XVIII Native Orchids, Sarracenias and Other Bog Plants 165 XIX Hardy Ferns 172 XX Ornamental Grasses and Bamboos I79 XXI Insects, Diseases and Enemies 186 Aphides — A Destructive Leaf Miner 186 The Nymphsea Leaf Beetle — Other Larval Pests 187 A Fungoid Disease 18S Algae — Confervas — Rats and Mice 189 The Water Snake — Turtles — Crawfish 190 XXII Gold and Other Fish for Ponds 191 ILLUSTRATIONS Basin for the Cultivation of Water Lilies Frontispiece Amateur's Water Garden, An 3 Victoria regia (Tricker's variety), Pond View of 8 Nymphsea Marliacea rosea. Ornamental Sprays of I5 Hardy Nymphasa in a Large, Artificial Basin 16 Victoria regia in Lincoln Park, Chicago, III 21 Inlet for Water to Pond (Diagram) • 22 A Terrace Water Garden (Diagram ) 23 Plan for a Brick Wall (Diagram) 24 An Old I\Iill Lead on an Amateur's Place (Two Views) 26 Small Water Gardens on the Lawn, Suggestive Designs for (Four Diagrams) 27 Water Lily Basin on the Lawn, Suggestion for a (Diagram) 28 Water Lily Basin for the Lawn, A Small (Diagram) 29 Fountain Basin, Washington, D. C • • 30 Pines and Spruces for the Protection of the Water Garden, A Windbreak of Z3 Water's Edge Planting — Hardy Hybrid Rhododendrons, 35 ; Rhododendron maximum. The Great Leaved Laurel 2,7 Kalmia latifolia at the Edge of a Pond 39 Amateur's Water Garden, An (Three Views) 41 [5] ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued PAGE Nymph.-ca odorata W. B. Shaw. 50; Nymphsa odorata Mary exquisita, 52; Nymphsea alba, 53; Nynipha;a Marliacea albida, 54; Nymphsea Marliacea chromatella, 55; Nympha'a Gladstoniana— Nymphiea tetragona, 56; Nymphsea odorata Luciana, 57 ; Nymph^a James Brydon, 5; ; Nymphsea gloriosa 59 Amateur's Pool, An 60 Root or Rhizome of Nelumbium 63 Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum, 65; Nelumbium roseum plenum, 66; Nelumbium Pekin- ensis rubrum flore pleno, 67 ; Nelumbium Shiroman 68 A Heated Pool, A Suggestion for (Two Diagrams) 70 Heating a Pool or Basin from the Boiler of the Dwelling-House (Three Diagrams)... T2 Nymphsea gigantea, 74; Nymphasa Zanzibarensis rosea, 76; Nymphsea pulcherrima, "JT, Nymphjea Pennsylvania, 78; Nymphasa gracilis, 79; Nymphsea William Stone, 80; Nymphasa dentata superba, 82; Nymphsea dentata magnifica, 82; Nymphsea Jubilee, 83; Nymphsea Devoniensis, 84; Nymphsea rubra rosea, 85; Nymphsea O'Marana, 85 ; Nymphsea Sturtevanti, 86; Nymphsea Bisseti 87 Euryale ferox. Flower of 88 Victoria regia, A Fine Plant of, Grown Without Artificial Heat 89 Victoria regia, Two Well-Grown Specimens of the 90 Victoria regia, Flower of 9- Victoria regia, Under Side of a Leaf of 93 Victoria regia Trickeri, Flower of 94 Victoria regia Randi, Flower of 95 Nymphsea Marliacea rosea. Sprays of 99 Aponogeton distachyum, Leaf and Flower of — Cape Pond Weed 101 Cyperus Papyrus — The True Egyptian Paper Plant 102 Eichhornia speciosa — Water Hyacinth 104 Limnocharis Humboldtii — Water Poppy 107 Ouvirandra fenestralis — Lace Leaf Plant 109 Water Plants, Eight Desirable 1 1 1 Nymphsea Marliacea chromatella, Sprays of 1 14 Aquatic Plant Greenhouse at Schenley Park, Pittsburg, Pa 116 Aquatic Plant Greenhouse of Samuel Untermeyer, Esq., at Greystonc, Yonkcrs, N. Y. .. 117 Greenhouse for Aquatic Plants, Curvilinear, Sectional View of 118 Greenhouse, Interior Plan of Aquatic Curvilinear 119 Aquatic Plant Pool at Bronx Park, N. Y. (Before the Water is Turned On) 120 Seed Vessels, Types of 124 Roots of the Water Lilies, Types of 127 Roots of Hardy Water Lilies, Typical 129 Hardy Water Lilies, Types of 132 Nelumbium speciosum at H. A. Dreer's. Rivcrton, N. J 135 Calathea (maranta) zebrina 138 Sub-Tropical Plants at Water's Edge 139 Cyperus alternifolius. The Umbrella Plant 1..10 Fatsia papyrifera ( Rice Paper Plant ) 141 Musa Enscte, Abyssinian Banana 142 Acorus Calamus varicgata — Variegated Sweet Flag 145 Bocconia cordata 1.17 Clematis paniculata 148 Dicentra spectabilis — Bleeding Heart 149 Digitalis purpurea — Foxglove i cjo Gunnera scabra 151 Hemerocallis fulva 15 :> Iris Isevigata ( Ksempferi) 154 Mertensia Virginica— Virginia Cowslip or Blue Bell 156 Peltandra undulata 1^7 Pontederia cordata — Pickerel Weed 158 [6] ILLUSTRATIONS— Concludea PAGE Pyrethriim uliginosiini — Giant Ox-Eye Daisy 159 Spiraea Aruncus — Goat's Beard Spiraea 161 Thalia dealbata 162 Typha latifolia — Cat-Tail 164 Cvprinedium puhescents — Large Yellow Lady's Slipper 166 Cypripedium reginae 167 Sarracenia flava — Pitcher Plant, 168 ; Sarracenia purpurea 169 Dionjea muscipula — Venus's Fly-Trap 170 Rustic House at Pond 171 Ferns, Fine Clumps of, for a Shady Piank 173 Dryopteris marginalis — Rock Shield Fern 174 Flowering Ferns, Fronds of 175 Osmunda regalis, Plant of. The Royal Fern 176 Ferns, Fronds of Six Varieties, 177 ; Fronds of Four Varieties 178 Arundo Donax macrophylla 179 Phyllostachys aurea— Bambusa aurea 181 Erianthus Ravennne 182 Eulalia gracillima univittata 183 Gynerium argenteum — Pampas Grass 184 Eulalia Japonica variegata 185 Gold Fish — Common Gold Fish and Golden Ide. 193 Gold Fish, Types of Fine Japanese 195 DOUBLE PAGE PLATES Water Garden at Twin Oaks, The, Washington, D. C Between pages 80-81 Formal Water Garden, Design of a ( Diagram) Between pages 144-145 NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ROSEA [7] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING PREFACE THERE is no more fascinating pursuit connected with Horticulture, none that gives greater pleasure and enjoyment to the owner, than the cultivation of a water garden. This is Ijrought about from var- ious reasons, chief among which is the important part played by water in all well- ordered landscape effects ; secondly, the wealth and diversity of color, the great range of beauty, the interesting historical associations of many of the water plants employed and their unique manner of flowering — for some varieties there are that unfold their untold loveliness when kissed by the first rays of the morning sun ; others, again, like fairv craft, anchored in a miniature moonlit sea, disclose their gorgeousness and glory to the Queen of Night, and hold sweet communion with the silent stars. Then, too, there is the attractiveness which the plants nec- essary to the embellishment of the environments of a water garden present. While the charm of running streams, lakes and ponds in the landscape has ever been patent to all Nature lovers, it is only of late years that the intrinsic worth of the water garden proper and its lovely denizens, both vegetable and finny, as part of the adornment of public parks and private grounds, has be- come fully appreciated. A little over half a century ago the only plant of importance found in greater or less expanses of water, in most landscape designs, was the Richardia alba, pop- ularly known as the Calla or Lily of the Nile, immense specimens of which are recorded. The beautiful native "Pond Lilies," floating peacefully, silently, on the surface of pond or pool, their gorgeous blooms sparkling in the Summer sun, had always been admired ; collections of water lilies had been gotten together by botanical institutions, but as yet their decorative value in garden work had not been fully realized. We read that in England, in 1849, when the aquatic greenhouse was built at Chatsworth for the sole purpose of growing Victoria regia, Nymphseas and other water plants, it was regarded as a new departure in ornamental gardening. It was nearly thirty years later when the capabilities of water lilies in garden work [9] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING began to receive deserved attention in the United States, the seeming neglect of or indifference to them here being accounted for by the fact that the varieties then available were not of a character to appeal to the general public, being mostly tender kinds, needing special care and facilities possessed by but few- growers. There was, of course, a fair number of varieties of the hardy white Nymphseas, but it was not until the discovery of the pink sport of Nymphrea odorata on Cape Cod, and the introduction of Nymphsea alba rosea from Lake Payer, Sweden, a few years afterward, that interest in these plants in America was quickened. Perhaps the greatest impetus given to water gardening, both at home and abroad, resulted about the year 1887, when M. Marliac, a Prench specialist, intro- duced his magnificent hardy varieties, many of them still unsurpassed in shades of yellow and of pink. Since that time the enthusiasm in water gardening everywhere has kept on increasing. Hybridizers have been bringing forth new and improved varieties, both hardy and tender, of resplendent colors and graceful forms, and to-day there is hardly a garden of any pretensions without its water lily pool or basin, quietly nestling amid its appropriate surroundings. Our park superintendents now fully recognize the attraction which the water lily pond possesses for the general pub- lic, and are catering to this admirable popular taste by the installation of water gardens in these breathing spots of the people. But it is not alone to the gardens of the wealthy, nor to the public parks, that the cultivation of water lilies is confined. These plants are grown and ad- mired by hundreds throughout the land to whom the art of gardening in its every phase forcibly appeals — a taste that is ever increasing with the growth of our population and which, above all others, reflects the refined character of our people. And it is a branch of gardening that conies well within the limits of the purse of the masses, the necessary first outlay for the full enjoyment of water lily cul- tivation being practically nominal. In recent years a considerable amount of fugitive literature on the culture of the water lily has appeared in various periodicals ; and one or more books as well are devoted to the subject. The object of the present work is not to sup- plant, but rather to supplement what has already been so ably presented. The volume now offered contains a record of the author's practical experience with this class of charming plants, extending over a period of fifteen years. It [lol THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING is a heart to heart talk, devoid ut htcrary pretension, with those of kinch'cd tastes to my own, and it is intended to form a working I'ttdc iiicciiiii which may lead to a better knowledge and a more complete understanding of everything connected with the cultivation of a race of garden subjects which, for beauty and grace, comprehensiveness of colors and historical associations, to me, stands unrivaled in all Flora's realm. The preparation of the illustrations contained in this volume, the great ma- jority of wdiich have been made by the author direct from the material obtainable in the water garden under his personal supervision, has been a labor of love for some years, and it is his trust that they will add to the interest of the book and prove an incitement to its readers. For the preparation of the manuscript for the printer I am indebted to Mr. Alexander Wallace, Editor of The Morists' Exchange, New York. I also desire to acknowledge the many valuable suggestions made and hcl])- ful aid otherwise rendered by Mr. A- T. De La Mare, president of the publish- ing firm, distributors of the work. My earnest desire is that my interested readers, who follow the advice herein contained, will reap from the initting of it into practical operation the great ]/ieasure in this healthful branch oi gardening practice that has been mine these many years. PETER L51SSET. Twin Oaks, Washington, D. C, May, 1907. II] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENINQ CHAPTER I FOREWORD HISTORY records that from the earHest times it has been customary for mankind to recognize in certain plants and flowers some peculiar form of intrinsic beauty or economic value sufficient to induce the selection of these subjects from among their fellows as worthy of the highest adoration and honor. Such a distinction has been accorded water lilies, dating back to the remotest ages. Students of botanical lore tell us that the Nelumbium speciosum, as it is universally known, probably among the first plants to be thus singled out, was held sacred by the ancient Egyptians, the sculptured floral repre- sentations found among the ruins of temples in Egypt testifying to the venera- tion paid to this plant by the dwellers in the land of the Pharoahs. And not only in Egypt was the Lotus worshipped, but it was also deemed sacred by the natives of India, Tibet, China and Japan, being to a greater or less extent still employed in religious invocations and ceremonies in these countries. It is worthy of men- tion, however, that some modern writers challenge the heretofore generally ac- cepted tradition that Nelumbium speciosum (Nelumbo nucifera) is the "sacred Lotus" of the Nile. Although Theophrastus and other ancient historians asserl; that it is indigenous there, in recent writings it is stated that Nelumbium spec- iosum is not now found in Egypt or in Africa. Wilkinson, in his "Ancient Egyptians," states : "It is never introduced into the sculptures as a sacred em- blem, or indeed as a production of the country." One of the most exhaustive works dealing with a discussion of this subject is that excellent volume entitled, "The Grammar of the Lotus." by Professor Wm. H. Goodyear, M. A., Curator of the Department of Fine Arts in the Brooklyn (N. Y.) Institute of Arts and Sciences. In that work Professor Goodyear points out that it is Nymphsea Lotus or N. coerulea, the former the white, the latter the blue Lotus, and both native Egyp- tian plants, which is figured in the ornamental patterns of the monuments. "The 'Rose Lotus'," adds Professor Goodyear, "may possibly be realistically repre- sented in ancient Egyptian paintings, just as the Palm and many other plants [12] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENINg appear, but such cases must be extremely rare, as none can be found in the great foHo pubhcations of Eg-yptian antiquities, or in the typical ornaments exhibited by Egyptian museums. As far as the typical ornaments or typical patterns are concerned, the 'Rose Lotus' is not to be found." It is now generally understood that the plant was introduced into Egypt from India, its native habitat. Beauty of flower alone, however, was not the only quality possessed by the Nelumbium compelling the admiration and veneration of the ancients, for the plant had as well utilitarian properties that appealed to them and rendered it of considerable economic value. The root stocks and seeds were prepared and eaten as food by the inhabitants of China, India and Australia. In Gary's translation of Herodotus, speaking of the Egyptians, it is recorded as follows: ''But to obtain food more easily, they have the following inventions: when the river is full, and has made the plains like a sea, great numbers of lilies, which the Egyptians call lotus, spring up in the water; these they gather and dry in the sun ; then having pounded the middle of the lotus, which resembles a poppy, they make bread of it and bake it. The root also of this lotus is fit for food, and is tolerably sweet, and is round and of the size of an apple. There are also other lilies, like roses, that grow in the river, the fruit of which is contained in a sep- arate pod that springs up from the root, in form very like a wasp's nest ; in this there are many berries fit to be eaten, of the size of an olive stone, and they arc eaten both fresh and dried." It is believed that from this statement of Herodotus the popular error has arisen that the Lotus was a native Egyptian plant, and, although he made no reference to the subject of Egyptian ornament, that Nel- umbium speciosum was the typical sacred plant of Egypt. Nelumbium specio- ?um has also a medicinal value which lies in the viscid juice of the leaf stalks. Though one species of Nelumbium — luteum, the charming yellow-flowered Lotus — is indigenous to North America, it was not until some time in the sev- enties that Nelumbium speciosum (Nelumbo nucifera) reached this country from Japan through the instrumentality of the late Thomas Hogg, an Oriental traveler, who introduced many of our best known plants in cultivation from that wonder- ful country. Mr. Hogg sent roots of the Nelumbium speciosum to the late Isaac Buchanan, florist, who planted them in a running stream on his grounds in Astoria, Long Island, but, unfortunately, they perished. At a subsequent date, Samuel Henshaw, a well-known landscape gardener, narrates having received some roots from the same source, which he planted in an artificial pond in a garden on Staten Island, New York, where they grew and flourished. Mr. Hen- [13] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING shaw's success with this and other aquatics led him to introduce water gardens into various landscape designs carried out by him, he having first become ac- quainted with the merits of the water lilies at Chatsworth, England. The cultivation of the Nelumbium as a commercial plant in the United States was first engaged in by E. D. Sturtevant, then of Bordentown, N. J., now of California, who. about the same time as Mr. Henshaw received his tubers from Japan, secured a number from Kew Gardens, England. These were planted in a sheltered mill pond in shallow water where their hardiness was fully demon- strated, stock obtained from them being distributed to all parts of the United States. No less interesting and beautiful are the various forms of Nymphaea, as well as the gigantic Victorias, historical data regarding the latter of which will be found in another chapter. Nymphcxa odorata was probably the first foreign Nymphaea to reach England, having, it is said, been introduced into that country about 1786, although the English species, Nymphaea alba, had been recognized long anterior to that date. In addition to their exquisite flowers some of the Nymphaeas possess economic properties. The root stocks of Nymphaea alba con- tain gallic acid, and on that account are said to be useful for dyeing purposes; they also contain a large quantity of starch. The French use them in the prep- aration of a kind of beer. Water lilies are found in a wild state in nearly all of the countries of the world. From South America we get the well-known Victoria regia ; from Mexi- co, Nymphaea Mexicana and Nymphaea gracilis ; from our own country come the charming Nymphaea odorata, Nymphaea tuberosa, Nymphaea flava, Nymphaea elegans, and the beautiful Nelumbium luteum already mentioned. From Europe we get the chaste white water lily, Nymphaea alba ; the red-colored one, Nymphaea alba rosea, which is a native of Sweden ; also Nymphaea Candida from Bohemia. From far ofif Australia comes one of the finest of the blue water lilies, Nymphaea gigantea. From China we get that little gem, Nymphaea tetragona or pygmaea; from India the deep, red-colored night flowering Nymphaea rubra, likewise the first cousin of the Victoria regia, Euryale ferox ; from Egypt the Nymphaea Lotus, and from Africa the deep royal purple Nymphaea Zanzibarensis, while from Japan the many beautiful and stately forms of the Nelumbium are obtained. The colors of the flowers range from the purest white through soft delicate shades of pink to the deepest reds ; from the deepest purple through the lighter shades of blue to the palest blue imaginable, and from pale yellow through the deeper shades to salmon. [14] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nearly all of the flowers have a delicious fragrance, ranging from the deli- cate tea odor of Nympha?a tetragona through the stronger scented Nymphaea odoratas to the almost overpowering vanilla scented Victoria regia. There is also a great difference in the hours of expanding their blooms. Many of the water lilies open their flowers soon after daybreak, others later in the morning, remaining open for the greater part of the day ; while the evening is ushered in by the opening of the night flowering Nymphaea Lotus, Nymphaea rubra and their host of varieties, these remaining open throughout the night and well on to noon of the following day; the enchanting Victoria regia also throws open its cream-colored flowers as the day darkens into night. "Misty moonlight, faintly falling O'er the lake at eventide. Shows a thousand gleaming lilies On the rippling waters wide. V "White as snow, the circling petals Cluster round each golden star. Rising, falling, with the waters, Moving, yet at rest they are. "Winds may blow, and skies may darken, Rain may pour, and waves may swell ; Deep beneath the changeful eddies Lily roots arc fastened well." Water lilies differ from each other not only in the color of their blooms and their time of opening, but also in the length of their flower stems. Many of the blossoms float on the surface of the water; others have stems that carry the flowers from three to fifteen inches above the surface, the blooms ranging in size from those of the little Nymphaea pygmaea of two inches to that of the wonderful Nymphaea dentata of fifteen inches in diameter. The plants also dift'er in the characteristics and color of their foliage ; many have floating leaves, others have the center leaves raised above the water, espe- cially those of Nymphaea tuberosa ancestry. Some of the leaves are green, others reddish bronze, while many are beautifully mottled with chocolate spots on a green ground. The great variation in the form of flower, in the colors, and in the growth of the plants, coming as they do from many countries, lend to the occupants of the water garden a charm and a fascination that no other style of garden possesses. [15] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER II PONDS AND BASINS Concerning the Imjftortance of a CarefuVy Selected Site I N selecting the location of a pond, or pool, in which to grow water lilies, the ground should be gone over carefully, and a site chosen where a supply of water, either from a natural stream or from an artificial source, will be pro- vided. The location should, if possible, be sheltered by buildings, by a planting of trees and shrubs far enough away from the edge of the pond that they will not overshadow the water, or by a high bank on the northwest, northeast, and north, but open toward the south, southwest, and southeast. This will insure the full benefit of the sun's rays in warming the water, and, at the same time, afiford protection from high winds that soon would ruin the tropical growth of the tender water lilies and the sub-tropical plants in the surrounding borders. If the pond is intended for the growth of hardy kinds only, it will not be necessary to protect it, as these will thrive in a much lower temperature than the tender ones, and the leaf surface of the hardy sorts is so small that they are never seriously damaged by the wind. flaking Artificial Ponds Having decided upon the location of the pond, stakes should be driven into the ground, a few feet apart, outlining the edge. In making a pond for the cul- tivation of water lilies for pleasure, it is well not to have it so wide that one can- not enjoy the flowers at close range. The greatest width should not exceed 75 feet. The flowers never rise above the water more than fifteen inches, except in the case of the Nelumbiums, which grow to a height of from two to eight feet out of the water. But, \\n\h water lilies proper, one has to get near them to en- joy the full beauty and exquisite coloring of the flowers. [17] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING If it is desired to have a greater expanse of water than one 75 feet in width, an island, located near the center of the pond and connected with the mainland by a rustic footbridge, should be formed. This island, which should be irregular in outline, and of varying width and height, will afiford an opportunity to utilize many rare and beautiful plants suitable for the margins, also flowering shrubs and trees, which, by a judicious selection and careful planting so that they will not shade the pond, will add materially to the charm of the whole when finished. The outline of the island could be marked, at intervals, by heavy boulders, or rocks, so placed as to create a natural effect. The location and size of the pond decided upon, and the outline marked by the stakes, a level should be taken from a point determined either by a natural feature, the supply of water, or the surface of the ground. For best efifect the pond should be slightly below the surrounding level, as this will permit of plants being grown right up to the water's edge, and present a more natural appearance than if the edge of the pond were elevated above the ground. If one is not skilled in the use of the spirit level, or the surveyor's instrument, it will be ad- visable to get a surveyor to run the levels, so that they shall be exact. After securing the levels, the soil is excavated and thrown up on the banks, or carted away to fill depressions, or low ground, in the neighborhood of the pond. As the pond will generally be located in the lowest part of the grounds, existing depressions filled in with this surplus soil and elevated to the same level will add much to the beauty of the whole. The sides of the pond should slope at an angle of from 40° to 45" if to be puddled with clay. The pond should be excavated to a depth of two feet six inches. This will allow of four inches of clay on the bottom, eight inches of soil, and one foot six inches of water. If the method of growing the plants in boxes or tubs is to be practiced, the boxes would take the place of the soil, and should be twelve inches in depth. If the soil is of a sandy or gravelly nature, through which the water will drain ofif, some means must then be employed to make the pond watertight, so as to avoid this waste, and provide against the reduction of the temperature of the water through having to supply more to take the place of that lost. Water from springs, or from an open stream, is generally from 15° to 20° colder than that already in the pond which has been warmed by the sun's rays, and will lower the temperature of the water in the pond considerably if the loss by seepage is very great. The common method, and the least expensive in first cost, is to [18] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING puddle the bottom and sides of the pond with clay. This material can be ob- tained in nearly all localities if one digs deep enough to secure it. The clay is taken in slices of about four inches in thickness, of uniform size, and is placed on the sides and bottom of the pond in the same maimer that sod is laid down to secure a lawn. Then the whole is rammed hard and smooth with a heavy ram- mer, care being taken that all joints are closed and no apertures left through which the water can escape. If the clay is too hard to be easily beaten into place it can be made plastic by sprinkling water over it, allowing it to soften a little, when it can be rammed into place. If a good grade of clay, that will cut into slices, is not available, as stifif a clay as can be procured should be taken, chopped into small pieces, mixed with water, turned and chopped several times until all is of the consistency of stifif putty or mortar ; this can then be spread over the bottom and sides, in layers, until of the thickness of four inches or more ; and after the whole has dried some- what it can be tamped in place. While this puddling method is the most econom- ical as regards first cost, it really is the most expensive in the end, as the clay is always in more or less danger of being displaced by the person in charge walking around the pond while caring for the plants. The clay is also very easily pene- trated by that great pest of all such ponds, the crawfish, and even that bane of the water lily grower's life, the water snake, finds the clay easy to puncture. S^n Excellent J^aterial for Artificial 'Pond JVlaking The very best material that can be used for the formation of all ponds, tanks, and pools is, without doubt, hydraulic cement. An inexpensive and easily made artificial stone can be had that will stand the test of all climates, be proof against all boring pests, and at the same time will not cost much more than the clay method described. If cement for the walls and bottoms is to be used, this decision should be reached before any of the soil is excavated. After the pond has been outlined, another row of stakes should be inserted from six to twelve inches away from the first, forming a double row of stakes. The soil between these rows of stakes should be excavated to the required depth of the pond, care being taken not to damage the sides of the ditch in digging, as this excavation will act as a mold for the wall. If, by misadventure, the sides should be dam- aged, repair the same by inserting rough boards, so as to have the wall of uni- form width. The width of the wall will depend on the degree of frost pressure [19] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING that will be exerted upon it during the Winter. Six inches in width will be am- ple where the Winters are mild ; but for the neighborhood of Washington, D. C, and farther north, the width must be from nine to twelve inches. It is advisable to have the walls wider at the bottom than at the top. They should slope toward the top on both sides ; this will allow the soil, in freezing, to lift upward, and so release the pressure on the walls. After the soil has been excavated from this space, the level of the wall should be determined, and stakes driven in as guides, so that the top of the wall when finished shall be six inches below the level of the surface ground. This will allow of grass, or other plants, to be grown on the top of the wall, thus hiding it and presenting a natural view in harmony with the environments ; or the wall may be carried up to form a coping. This space should be filled in with concrete, composed of one part Portland cement, three parts sand, four parts gravel, and three parts broken stone. First mix the sand and cement by turning until thor- oughly incorporated, then mix the gravel and broken stone with the cement and sand. The whole should be turned several times until the difi:erent ingredients are thoroughly intermixed, when water should be added, and the mass turned until it is of the nature of a sticky paste ; add the water sparingly, or some of the cement will be washed away. When the concrete is ready, it can be conveyed in wheelbarrows to the ex- cavation, poured in, and rammed hard into position. The stones used should not be larger than two inches in diameter, and the gravel from one and a quarter inches down to the size of a pea, the idea being to have sufficient of the small gravel to fill all the interstices between the stones, and the sand and cement to fill in between the small gravel, making the whole wall one solid stone. Care should be taken to secure a good solid foundation or the walls will be apt to crack through settling. If the ground is soft, large stone should be rammed in to give sufficient foundation. Excavating After the wall has dried out sufficiently, the work of excavating the pond proper can be proceeded with. Remove all the soil to the level of the bottom of the wall, then place a large pipe at the bottom and near the end where the over- flow will be, to act as a draw-ofif pipe for the emptying of the pond. A fair- sized hole should be made below the level of this pipe, somewhere in the pond, to provide a pool for the fish when the water is drawn off. The bottom of the [20] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING pond should be covered with six inches of concrete, mixed the same as that for the walls, and well rammed. After the whole is completed in the rough and all soil adhering to the sides removed, a one inch coating of cement and sand should be put on the walls and bottom, composed of one part Portland cement to three parts finely screened sand, mixed with water, and applied with a smoothing trowel, to give a perfectly smooth surface. VICTORIA REGIA IN LINCOLN PARK, CHICAGO. ILL. J\atural Ponds So far we have only treated of artificial ponds, or pools, which require to be excavated. In many places there are natural ponds which, at little expense, can be made very beautiful and a joy to their owners. First consider the source of the water supply : is it subject from any cause to a wash that would render it at times unsightly by the quantity of muddy water carried into it by heavy rains? Or is there a stream passing through the pond from springs which, being colder, will lower the temperature of the water it contains? All streams should be di- verted so that they cannot enter the pond unless desired by the owner or care- taker. This can be easily done by an open ditch, dug so as to skirt the pond, and [21] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING at some distance from it. The banks can be adorned with a choice collection of plants that will thrive in such a place. Or the stream, if not too large, can be led through a terra-cotta pipe to a point below the pond where it can then proceed on its natural course. The water supply can be taken from the stream at a point where the source is above the level of the pond, and the water let in through a terra-cotta pipe, or by an open ditch which can be made very beautiful by planting the sides of it with moisture-loving plants, a list of which will be found enum- erated in another chapter. Some means should be provided for closing the pipe automatically, so that the flow of water can be cut off in time of storm, or at the ^ Y" /f£M0V£O TO /ADJUST B/ili. flO/ir S^hC6/f P/P£ 6/^r£ INLET FOR WATER TO POND Showing a satisfactory device by which storm ^vater is excluded from the AVater Garder will of the owner. The author has a very satisfactory arrangement for this pur- pose. The supply pipe is fitted with a "sewer pipe gate" which is shown in detail in the sketch "Inlet for Water to Pond." The water from the stream passes through a screen of 14-inch galvanized wire mesh, flowing around the sides of the gate into the inlet pipe. The ball-float will rise and fall with the depth of water in the stream, adjusting itself automatically. The volume of water to be admitted into the pond is controlled by bending the rod of the ball-float. When the stream is swollen by a storm and an inflow of muddy water, the ball-float rises, completely closing the inlet so that no water passes through the pipe until the stream has regained its normal level. When it is desired to admit the full ca- pacity of the pipe, the ball can be unscrewed, allowing the gate to open wide. This gate can be purchased from any dealer in plumbers' supplies, and any in- telligent machinist or plumber can fit up the arrangement as described. [22] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING If no stream is available the water can be taken from a well, or from the city supply where such exists. Wherever it can be carried out the sup])ly should flow into the pond naturally ; that is to say. without beiuc; forced in by means of a pump. If, however, this is not i^racticable, an hydraulic ram is an inexpensive and efficient means to elevate the water to the desired height. A ram of the smallest size, which will cost about $9.00, requires a flow of from two to three gallons of water per minute to work it. and a fall or head of three feet ; with this head the ram will pump from ten to fifteen gallons of water per hour, raising the water to a height of from fifteen to twenty feet above the level of the ram. For every additional head of a foot the ram will raise the water from five to ten feet higher. Rams can be purchased of sufficient capacity to deliver up to four gallons of water per minute. Another very satisfactory means to lift the water to a higher level is to use a water wheel on the axle of which is placed an eccentric ; to this is attached the piston of the pump. This is a very economical arrangement to lift water, the wheel being in perfect control by means of a valve placed on the feed pipe that supplies the water to drive the wheel. One point in which it is superior to the ram is that the water required to drive the wheel is not wasted, as the suction pipe from the pump can be placed in the rear of the wheel, and the water, after pass- ing over the wheel, can be pumped up. This will be of great importance where the water supply is limited. The wheel is operated with but small attention, as there is little about it to get out of order, it merely requiring that the oil cups on the bearings be kept supplied with oil, and new suction cups placed in the pump as needed. A wheel of this description has been in use for many years, working quietly night and day pumping water to an elevation of nearly one hundred and fifty feet, where the water enters a tank in the attic of the residence, overflowing from there to a tank in the stables and overflowing again to the stable yard. 3m3srzir=E£ci: " f c.o/v A TERRACE WATER GARDEN A suggestion for a Water Garden on the top of a terrace. The circular pool to be filled with Nelumhiums, the side pools with Hardy or Tender Water Lilies [23] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING If it is not practicable to use either of these methods a windmill or gasoline engine can be employed to lift the water. It is not necessary, nor desirable, that a stream of water should be contin- ually passing into the pond, if tender lilies are growing in it. All that is re- quired is that the water lost through evaporation or leakage be replaced by a fresh supply. Many are afraid of malaria and mosquitoes proceeding from a pond un- less a continuous stream of water is passing through it; this fear is groundless. If a pond is properly stocked with plant growth, and with a sufficient number of fish of the proper kinds, there will be no malaria or stagnation. And as for the mosquitoes, the fish will take care of all the larvae so that not one of these will ever reach the adult stage. the lawn near the dwelling house, and made of concrete or masonry, walls and bottom, a water supply that will be found adequate for all purposes in the Northeast- ern States, or where the rainfall is sufficient, can be provided by the watershed from the roof of the dwelling, led through a pipe into the pool. This supply will be found ample to restore all loss by evaporation, and will keep the water in good condition for the growth of aquatic plants. It is always desirable to have a pipe of sufficient capacity laid from the bottom of the pond, or tank, to the waste way, or stream, that carries off the waste or overflow of water, it being necessary to empty the pond or tank at least twice a year for the proper preparation of soil and the planting, and again in the Fall for the removal of the roots of the tender lilies. This pipe should be of large size so that the work of emptying can be done quickly. A straightway valve fitted to this pipe, and located on the bank just outside the pond, will be found very helpful and a great convenience when it becomes necessary to empty the water [24] /■ I CO/VCfiS/e ^ /o; ■ Plan for a brick wall, on a foundation of concrete faced 'witb one incK of sand and cement mortar THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Another method of securing a natural pond, and one often pursued, where a stream of water runs through the place, is to form a dam across the stream, the soil being excavated to give the pond the desired shape and used to make the dam or to bring the surrounding ground up to a level. This style of pond, however, is rarely satisfactory and is not to be recommended. The dam is always a weak point, and being "made earth" the water can easily percolate through it and form a leak. The stream will also have to be diverted so as to prevent it flooding the pond, an operation which will about equalize the cost of excavating the entire pond. 'Basins for the Amateur These can be made of concrete as already described or built of brick as desired. The depth will be the same as that recommended for the larger ponds, namely, two feet six inches. If it is decided to construct the walls of brick, they should be built as shown in illustration and the two sides of the walls covered with a coating of cement and sand, using sand that has passed through a fine screen. The proportions of this facing mortar should be one part of best Portland cement to three parts of sand. Care should be taken in all cement work not to allow a too rapid drying of the cement ; the slower cement mortar hardens or sets the stronger the material will be. The following figures may be of service in computing the cost of a pool, finished in brick work. It takes sixteen bricks of standard size, 8x3^x2^, for every square foot of an eight-inch wall. To lay 1000 bricks it will take one barrel of cement and three barrels of sand. The facing of one inch of cement mortar will take about four barrels for every two hundred square feet. Portland cement costs $2.25 per barrel; generally sand can be procured on the place or from some nearby stream. If, however, no sand is in the immediate neighborhood it can be bought at from $1.00 to $2.00 per yard of twenty-seven cubic feet, the cost depending on the distance of the haul. Hard bricks will cost from $7.00 to $9.00 per 1000. To make the bottom of the pool watertight the bricks can be laid flat with from one-half to one inch apertures between them, these to be filled in with the same mortar as recommended for facing the side walls. The top of the walls should have a coating of the same mortar, or be capped with a stone coping. The basin, or pool, can be located on the lawn, near the dwelling, as then the flowers can be seen at any hour of the day. The time to see the water lily pool at its best is about 10 a. m. At that time the night blooming lilies have [25] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING An old mill lea(i on an amateur's place, be- fore planting. Fall of 1904 Photograph by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustls. North Tisbury, Mass. The same mill lead in the month of June. 1905. three months after plant- ing, showing what a beautiful spot can he evolved from an unsightly object, by means of suitable plants, and a tasteful arrangement. German and Japanese Iris with Ferns on the left side ; Siberian Iris on the right Photograph by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustis, North Tisbury, Mass. [26] THE BOOK OF WATER GART>EKING SUGGESTIVE DESIGNS FOR SMALL WATER GARDENS ON THE LAWN A basin of circular shape with a coping of stone or cement will look well on any lawn of large extent. If the lawn is of small size, with straight walks in proximity to the basin, one of oblong shape will be more desirable [27] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING not yet closed and the day flowering tender and hardy ones will be open so that the face of the basin will be covered with flowers. Morning, generally, is a very busy time and the sun during our Summer months is nearly always hot. There- fore, one is rarely inclined to visit the water garden about that time, especially if it be located at a distance from the house. Hence the advantage of having the basin as near to the dwelling as possible. ' . ^.^^ \-'^'^:i- \.-;:.^<.: :>-^:.-':\\--^ :■;■■: \-^'\-- -y: ^ ■ ■■'■■-■^ ■/— v. 6/^OUND , r ---^ >- — ■ — ■ '' "' "'/' - ___ v^ f ._ - ■ : .-_ -:r-^>'-' -V-v. \ --, -V" .■^r:>^:-:c. ■■>.--^-.^^- ■■-■-: ^- / SUGGESTION FOR A WATER LILY BASIN ON A LAWN. SHOWING A SECTION OF THE SAME The shape of the basin will depend on the architecture of the house and the design of the grounds. If formal or natural plantings have been adopted, the . [28] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING lily basin should conform as near as possible to its surroundings, that the whole, when completed, may be in perfect harmony. A basin of circular shape, with a coping of stone or cement, will look well on any lawn of large extent. This may be embellished by the addition of a fountain rising from the center, which may be put in operation for a short time at rare intervals, especially after a warm day when the lilies will be benefited by a shower. But this fountain should never be allowed to play on the water lilies for any length of time, as the colder water en- tering the basin will reduce the temperature to a point lower than it should be for best results. If the lawn is of small size, with straight walks in proximity to the basin, one of oblong shape will be more desirable, as its straight lines will har- monize better with the walks than a basin of circular form. t A SMALL WATER LILY BASIN FOR THE LAWN It is suggested that No. 1 te planted with Nelumbium speciosum ; No 2 with Nelumbium Pekinense rubrum ; No. 3 with Nymphaea Gladstoniana ; No. 4 with Nymphaea Zanzibarensis ; No 5 with Nymphaea Marliacea chromatella ; No 6 with Nymphaea Marliacea rosea ; No. 7 with Nymphaea Mrs. C. W. Ward ; No 8 with Nymphaea Gloriosa The circles and squares represent half barrels and boxes in -which to grow the plants If the cost of building a cement basin exceeds the amount one desires to expend, very good results can be obtained by purchasing a large hogshead, saw- ing it in two and sinking the tubs thus formed into the lawn so that the edges will be level with the grass. Water lilies or Nelumbiums planted in these tubs will give many beautiful flowers. A series of such tubs can be arranged that will be very attractive. Place a large one, filled with Nelumbiums, in the center, and [29] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING surround this larger one with a number of smaller tubs, filled with a selection of the hardy or tender day-flowering lilies. If these tubs be coated with tar on the outside to preserve the wood and buried to their edge in the grass, they will look more natural. A selection of Japanese Iris, or any Fern or other moisture- loving plant desired, can be planted between the tubs. One need never be deterred from growing this beautiful class of plants for want of a basin ; the lilies will do better in a basin without a doubt, but excellent results have been obtained by using half barrels, set on the surface of the ground, placing one plant in each receptacle. One enterprising amateur makes use of an old bathtub with entire satisfaction. Whatever style of basin is adopted, the requirements are practically the same — sufficient good, rich soil with at least six inches of water above it, and two goldfish in each half barrel to keep down mosquitoes. When goldfish are placed in the barrels it is well to have some other vessel plunged in the soil so as to af- ford the fish a hiding place from the cat, as pussy is generally fond of fish, and if the water in the basin or pool be shallow she can easily reach them. FOUNTAIN BASIN. WASHINGTON. D. C. Center filled with Myrioptyllum proserpinacoides (Parrots Feather) [30] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER III WINDBREAKS AND MARGINS I HE water lily pond, or basin, should be fully protected from the cold and high wind storms generally preva- lent from the north, northwest and sometimes from the northeast. If no buildings or nearby hillsides afford this protection, recourse must be had to a wall, a hedge, or a belt of evergreen or deciduous trees, so planted as to answer the purpose in view. The amount of space available will decide the method of protection. If the space be limited, there is nothing better than an evergreen hedge of Norway Spruce ( Picea excelsa) ; this is a fine hardy ever- green, of dense habit of growth, well suited to form a windbreak. It grows quickly, reaching at maturity a height of from 60 to 100 feet, while in favorable localities it will attain a height of 150 feet. The branches are slender, in regular pseudo-whorls from the base up ; the branches are gently decurved with the tips upturned, the higher branches spread horizontally, while the uppermost ones point upward. This fir can be cut back every year, as is an ordinary hedge of Privet ; or it can be planted from three to twelve feet apart and allowed to grow naturally. Another good evergreen for this purpose is Thuya occidentalis, the Ameri- can Arbor vitse. This is a fine hardy evergreen, and one of the best hedge plants for screens and windbreaks, especially if the ground space is limited. It is a tall, upright growing tree, with a spread of four to six feet, attaining a height of from 30 to 60 feet, with very dense foliage. This tree can also be sheared in every year, as is done with a hedge plant, but the effect will be better if the trees are planted three feet apart and allowed to grow naturally. Tsuga Canadensis (Hemlock Spruce) is another beautiful evergreen well adapted for a hedge ; it is indeed an ideal tree for a windbreak, either grown naturally or planted close and treated as a hedge plant. It is a very hardy tree, and where it gets enough sunlight it will be furnished with branches to the ground. The branches are slender and spreading; the lower ones deflex by [31] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING their own weight; the foHage is of a dark green color above, and silvery gray underneath. While only three kinds have been mentioned any evergreen can be used that grows sufficiently close, and that will succeed in the locality where the plant- ing is done. If the grounds are extensive, and a broad belt of planting can be carried out, it is well to have a background of large deciduous trees, such as Oaks, Beeches, Maples, Lindens and Tulip Poplars ; while in the foreground can be planted some of the more valuable evergreen trees, such as Pinus Strobus, the American White Pine, which is one of the noblest of evergreens, growing from 80 to 100 feet in height. Its slender threadlike leaves are from three to four inches in length, of bluish green color with silvery lines on the flat surface, giving the tree a silvery blue effect. As the White Pine loses its lower branches as it gets older it should be planted next to the deciduous trees. Pinus excelsa, the Bhotan Pine, is a very handsome tree, with long, droop- ing slender leaves of grayish green color, from five to seven inches in length. The tree grows to a height of from 50 to 150 feet; it is a native of the Himalaya Mountains, and is well adapted for a windbreak, for, unlike Pinus Strobus, when planted in a favorable location it retains its lower branches to the ground, making a tree not only valuable as a windbreak, but, with its long, slender leaves, giving the effect of a graceful weeping tree. It is also a beautiful specimen for the lawn. Pinus Cembra is another fine dense growing medium sized tree, of from 50 to 70 feet in height, with silvery green foliage and branches down to the ground ; it is one of the finest of the Pines for lawn planting. Pinus Austriaca, the Austrian Pine, is one of the hardiest of the Pine fam- ilv, of dense growth in the young state, with very dark green, rigid leaves, three to five inches in length. This tree also loses its lower branches as it gets older; when full grown it will be without limbs for about one-half its height. It grows from 60 to 100 feet high, and with its very dark green, almost black foliage, is an excellent tree for the background as a setting for the more valuable ones. In Abies Nordmanniana we have one of the best of the Firs, a beautiful sub- ject with dense, dark green foliage, silvery white underneath. The branches are rigid, horizontal, or ascending. The tree grows from 75 to 150 feet in height. Abies Cephalonica is a strong, vigorous tree, reaching a height of from 50 to 60 feet, with wide spreading horizontal branches, and dark lustrous green leaves. [32] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Abies concolor is a beautiful tree of close dense growth ; it has light glaucous green leaves, giving the tree an attractive color of bluish white. Picea pungens glauca Kosteri (Roster's form of the Colorado Blue Spruce), is the handsomest of the Spruce family. The type comes from the mountains of Colorado, and has beautiful silvery blue colored leaves. It grows to a height of from 80 to 100 feet, has stout, rigid, horizontal branches, and a fine dense habit of growth. It is a good ornamental lawn tree as well as being useful as a wind- break. In front of the evergreens above mentioned the smaller growing ones should be planted, such as the golden Arbor vit?e. Thuya occidentalis lutea (T. George ^^■/< ll^ 1^ k ^ ^ ^ -1 ^;^'., tm^ MR HH B^f>j^ •]S tJJH ^MqHhBl >' 1 1 Wm^'i ^^sf^jf^^rt- ■ t'. . ^ i m ■ 1 _t.^„_^f_^^l 1 B m m ^^^i^^^BBB im R ■ A WINDBREAK OF PINES AND SPRUCES FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE WATER GARDEN Peabody) ; this is a fine low tree of pyramidal habit of growth; the young fol- iage of the current year's growth is bright yellow, the older foliage green varie- gated with yellow. Thuya occidentalis Vervaeneana is a smaller and denser tree than the type; the branchlets of the current year's growth are tinged with deep golden yellow, changing in Winter to brownish orange. [33] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Thuya occidentalis fastigiata (T. o. pyramidalis) is a fine evergreen of a tall, narrow fastigiate form, and close green leaves. Thuya occidentalis Wareana is another tree of denser growth and deeper brighter green foliage than the type; the branches are short, horizontal at first, then ascending. Thuya occidentalis Sibirica is a dense growing pyramidal evergreen, with deep green leaves, which retain their color well through the Winter; is very hardy, and makes a fine lawn specimen, being also valuable as a hedge plant for windbreaks. Libocedrus decurrens is another fine dark glossy green leaved evergreen, of tall columnar habit, growing from lOO to 150 feet in height; it makes a beautiful specimen. The Japanese Cypress, or Retinisporas, are all fine showy evergreens well adapted for windbreaks. Thuya gigantea is another evergreen of fine dense habit ; it has dark green leaves and grows to a height of from 150 to 200 feet. This, unlike the common Arbor vitas, stays green all Winter, while the latter turns a deep brown at the approach of cold weather. Cupressus obtusa is a tall growing tree, eventually reaching a height of from 70 to 100 feet. It is of pyramidal growth in the young state, with branches to the ground ; as it gets older the tree loses its lower branches and assumes a rounded top. This is a beautiful evergreen. Cupressus obtusa aurea is a fine variety similar to the type, with deep golden yellow foliage during the growing season. Cupressus pisifera is a smaller and more slender tree than C. obtusa ; the fol- iage is dark green, with a decided yellow tinge during the growing season. Cupressus pisifera aurea is one of the best yellow colored evergreens, the whole growth of the current year being of a rich yellow which fades to the nor- mal color the second year. This variety is quite distinct from C. plumosa aurea and is a better tree. Cupressus pisifera filifera is a fine low growing tree, with deep green foliage; the young growth is thread-like and pendant, giving a graceful weeping habit and forming a close growing, attractive tree. Cupressus pisifera filifera aurea is a beautiful variety with all of the current year's growth colored a light golden yellow. [34I THE BOOK Ot WATER GARDENING Cupressus pisifera plumosa is a tree with dense dark green foliage and a conical habit of growth, Cupressus pisifera plumosa aurea is a variety of Cupressus plumosa, the terminal growth of the current year being of a light golden yellow. Cupressus pisifera squarrosa Veitchii is the best form of the squarrosa type. The foliage is of a beautiful silvery blue, similar to that of a fine form of the Colorado Blue Spruce. The leaves are very fine, arranged in spirals, giving to the tree a beautiful graceful effect. WATERS EDGE PLANTING -HARDY HYBRID RHODODENDRONS From left to right : R. album elegans, R. President Lincoln. R. roseum elegans In the foreground of the trees named should be planted a choice assortment of flowering shrubs ; or, if more desirable, a number of the dwarf evergreens, such as Picea excelsa pumila, a dwarf, compact Spruce of perfect symmetrical habit. Picea excelsa pumila compacta grows from five to six feet in height and has dark green compact foliage. Juniperus sabina is a spreading shrub or low tree of variable habit; it grows from four to ten feet in height. Juniperus sabina prostrata is a low growing evergreen, lying flat on the ground; it has light bluish green leaves. [351 THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia is a low spreading, vigorous variety, with bright green leaves. Juniperus communis aurea (Douglas' Golden Juniper) is a beautiful low growing yellow colored evergreen ; the young growth is a brilliant yellow during the growing season. Juniperus Chinensis albo-variegata is a dwarf evergreen of dense columnar habit, many of the branchlets being cream white in color. Juniperus Chinensis aurea is a beautiful plant, with all of the young growth a golden yellow color. Juniperus Chinensis procumbens is a dwarf low spreading evergreen. Juniperus Chinensis procumbens aurea is a variety of the preceding, having the young growth tinged with yellow. In Juniperus Chinensis procumbens aurea variegata many of the young branchlets are tinged with deep golden yellow. Cupressus obtusa pygmaea (Retinispora) is a very desirable low growing evergreen, of deep color, rarely reaching more than two feet in height. It is of dense growth, spreading horizontally. Cupressus obtusa aurea is a small growing form, with deep golden yellow fol- iage. Pinus montana (P. Mughus) is a low growing, rigid Pine, of semi-pros- trate habit. It has dark green foliage. The foregoing forms a list of trees all of which are well suited to protect the pond from wind, and at the same time will provide a beautiful and interesting border of trees. Whatever trees are selected, they should be planted in an irregular belt if the width of the ground will allow of this being done. By so doing a more natural planting will be obtained, and an undulating margin that will present a much better appearance than if the trees are planted in straight rows. All of the subjects mentioned above are suitable for windbreaks, but they will not succeed on low, wet swampy soil ; if the surroundings of the pond are of this character, the ground should be drained and filled to a higher level if this is possible. If this is not practicable, then a planting of such trees as succeed well in low, wet ground should be selected, such as Platanus occidentalis (the American Plane or Buttonwood). This is a stately, wide spreading tree, of vigorous quick growth and heavy foliage; the bark peels ofif from the trunk in wide sheets, leaving the trunk showing great patches of white. [36] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Liriodendron tulipifera (White Wood or Tulip Poplar) succeeds well in low, wet soil. It grows rapidly, forming a large, broad spreading tree, with fine light bluish green foliage. The tree bears in Spring tulip shaped flowers of a yel- lowish green color. It is best to transplant young trees of the Liriodendron in Spring; if old trees are moved they rarely survive the operation, and seldom live if moved in the Fall. Courtesy H. P. Kelsey, Sali'in. ^r;l^s. WATERS EDGE PLANTING-RHODODENDRON MAXIMUM, THE GREAT-LEAVED LAUREL A fine hardy evergreen flo'wering sKrub Nyssa sylvatica (Sour Gum) is another native tree well adapted for low, wet situations. It is a tall tree of slender habit, growing from 40 to 60 feet in height, with small obovate or oval glossy leathery leaves that turn a bright, beau- tiful, flaming scarlet in the Fall. Liquidambar styraciflua (Sweet Gum) is a tree also of value for its beauti- ful colored leaves in Fall, which range from the greens through yellow purplish red to deep bronzy black, often all of these colors being present in the one leaf. [37] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING It likes a low, wet, marshy place. The leaves are palmate, five to seven-lobed, on leaf stalks six to seven inches long; the bark takes on a corky effect that is very interesting. The tree grows to a height of from 40 to 100 feet, according to the location. This is one of the best of the swamp trees. Quercus bicolor (Swamp White Oak) is a native, growing to a height of from 60 to 70 feet. The head is narrow and rounded; the leaves are four to seven inches long, the trunk covered with light gray bark. It likes a low, wet position. Quercus palustris (Pin Oak) is another native tree, growing from 60 to 120 feet in height. It is quick growing, and has beautiful deeply cut foliage with a decided yellow color to the young unfolding leaves, which take on brilliant Fall hues. It is a fine tree for low, wet ground, and is also the easiest of all the Oaks to transplant. Acer rubrum (Swamp or Red IMaple) is a tree that will do well in any lo- cation ; in the swamp or on the dry hillside it is perfectly at home. This tree has a beautiful, symmetrically rounded head when grown where it has room to develop. The flowers are bright red in Spring; the leaves, in Fall, turn bright yellow or scarlet, tinting the swamps all over the Eastern States with their beau- tiful colors. Betula nigra is a fine tree for low ground, growing from 50 to 90 feet in height. It has reddish brown bark, silvery gray on the young branches. Betula occidentalis reaches a height of from 30 to 40 feet and has slender branches and broad ovate leaves ; it grows well in wet soil. Salix Babylonica (Weeping Willow) is a beautiful weeping tree, very w^ell adapted for growing in low, wet ground. It reaches a height of from 30 to 40 feet and has long, slender, drooping olive green branches. Salix Babylonica aurea is a variety of Salix Babylonica, with bright yellow bark that is very ornamental, especially in Winter. Salix vitellina aurea (Salix vitellina aurantiaca). Golden Willow, is a very effective tree ; in Winter the branches and twigs are of a beautiful yellow color. In the immediate foreground should be planted Magnolia glauca, the Swamp Magnolia or Sweet Bay. This is a fine shrub or small evergreen tree. The leaves are bluish green above, with a silvery white reverse. The flowers are very sweet scented, of globular form, and cream colored when first opening. This Magnolia is quite at home in the swamps, but it also thrives in moist soil on higher ground. [38] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Kalmia latifolia delights in a moist, peaty soil, and grows very well in swampy places if planted on low mounds. It is one of the most charming of the native flowering shrubs. The flowers, borne in large terminal clusters, are rose colored to white, with purple spots. It attains a height of from four to twelve feet. KALMIA LATIFOLIA AT THE EDGE OF A POND One of the most charming of the native flowering shrubs Rhododendron maximum, the Great Leaved Laurel, is a native Rhododen- dron of extreme hardiness, growing from ten to twenty feet in height. The leaves are narrow and oblong, from four to ten inches in length, bright green above, grayish white underneath. The flowers are borne in large clusters, colored pale rose with greenish spots within. Rhododendron maximum roseum is identical with the type, except in the flower, which is pink colored. [39] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Rhododendron catawbiense is a native Rhododendron that never grows as tall as Rhododendron maximum, and is less desirable than it as a garden plant, except in high altitudes. It grows at a higher elevation than Rhododendron maximum, hence is not as well adapted as that plant to low ground. The flowers are lilac purple in color, the plant reaching a height of from six to fifteen feet. It is perfectly hardy in the New England States. Rhododendron punctatum is a smaller growing plant, never reaching over six feet in height. The branches are slender and spreading. The flowers, which are colored pale rose with green spots, are borne in small clusters. This is a very fine shrub, thriving well in wet soil. Azalea arborescens has fragrant, white or rose-tinted flowers, the plant growing from eight to ten feet in height. Azalea viscosa has flowers from white to rose in color, and grows from four to eight feet high. Azalea nudiflora grows to a height of from two to six feet ; the flowers range in color from white to deep pink and open just before the leaves unfold. Azalea calendulacea has flowers ranging in color from orange yellow to red; it grows from four to ten feet high. Azalea Vaseyi attains a height of from five to ten feet, and has beautiful pink flowers. All the Azaleas like a fine, peaty soil where they will have an abundant sup- ly of water. If planted in swamps they should be raised above the water on low mounds. Ilex verticillata (Winterberry) is a beautiful red-berried native shrub that delights in a low, wet position. The bright red berries are borne on the young twigs of the current year's growth, and measure about one-quarter inch across. Cornus stolonifera (Red-stemmed Dogwood) is a very effective shrub for the water's edge, growing from six to eight feet in height. The leaves are light green above and paler underneath. In Winter, the stems of the previous sea- son's growth are of a bright red color. This shrub should be severely cut down every Spring, so as to encourage a strong growth of young shoots that will take on this beautiful red color the following Winter. Alnus rugosa (A. serrulata) is also well adapted for wet places; it grows from eight to twenty feet high and is perfectly hardy. All the trees and shrubs should be so planted and traversed by a walk that one can wander out and in among them. The full extent of the water should [40] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING never be seen from any one point, but at each turn of the path a fresh view of the pond should break upon the vision. (This is not desirable in the case of ponds of small size, as it would not only minimize the effect but also give a strained ar- tificial look to the pond.) This effect can be easily created by having at some parts steep banks, the tops planted with some of the trees or shrubs already named. At other points the water can be hidden from view by a planting of shrubs only. Always bear in mind that the pond should not be shaded from the south, southeast, and southwest ; therefore, at these points only the smaller growing trees or shrubs should be used. Where the Rhododendrons thrive well no more beautiful and appropriate subjects can be selected for planting at the water's edge, and a generous collection of both native and hybrid varieties should be employed. In planting the Rhododendrons the native kinds should be grouped ; especially should this be done in the case of Rhododendron maximum, as it flow- ers much later than the hybrids, and it is always well to plant in groups the kinds that bloom at the same time. The following list of hybrid Rhododendrons furnishes a selection of the best of each color, which will aid intending purchasers: Rhododendron album grandi- florum, white and blush ; Rhododendron blandum, white and yellow ; Rhododen- dron Blandyanum, bright cherry ; Rhododendron Everestianum, crimpled rosy lilac ; Rhododendron General Grant, rosy scarlet ; Rhododendron grandiflorum, large rosy crimson ; Rhododendron gloriosum, blush, large flowers ; Rhododen- dron perspicuum, clear white ; Rhododendron purpureum grandiflorum, showy purple ; Rhododendron roseum elegans, rose ; Rhododendron Caractacus, large truss, rich purple crimson ; and Rhododendron Abraham Lincoln, rosy red. - PUotographi? by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustis, North Tisbury, Mass. AN AMATEUR'S WATER GARDEN From end of pond From front door of house From the bridge Nyraphaea Marliacea chromatella Bridge in the distance Japan Iris and Ferns on the bank [41] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER IV SOIL TO grow all Nympli?eas and Nelumbiums successfully they must be supplied with good, rich soil in abundance. Those of the larger grow- ing, night blooming class make a great growth of root and leaves and must be afforded plenty of food in the soil, which should be of sufficient depth to carry them through the season successfully, that they may attain the great- est development of leaf and flower. If the soil is not sufficiently enriched the. plant food will soon become exhausted, and the plants will show yellow, starved leaves and small flowers that will be no credit to the grower. irdaliing the Compost — Fertilizers For best results, prepare the soil as carefully as you would for roses or any other greenhouse plants. The sod from an old pasture (or from any grass field with a good sod) and soil inclined to a heavy clay texture, is the best for water lilies. This should be taken to a depth of four inches, and carted to a place where it can be mixed with an equal amount of cow manure, the best that can be obtained. Do not use horse manure, which is said "to be just as good." It is not as good, never was, and never will be, for this class of plants. Also be care- ful that no pig manure is mixed with the fertilizer, as this will burn the roots badly. Do not accept manure that has been lying outside, exposed to sun and rain for a year or more. Such material as a plant food is then little better than leaf mold. Get good, strong, fresh manure, with as little straw in it as possible. Make a layer of soil about six inches in depth, then add a layer of manure of the same depth, and so continue until the pile has reached a height of about four feet, and of whatever length and width are rec[uired to furnish the soil necessary to put into the pond. The soil pile should then be covered with boards, or other material, so as to shed rain and ward off the sun's rays. After the soil has been in this condition for some week-s (it is immaterial how many), it should be turned over and chopped, mixing the soil and manure thoroughly, afterward throwing it into a pile similar to the first, and covering it in the same way. This process [42] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING should be repeated three times ; the soil will then be ready to plaee in the boxes, or on the bottom of the pond. The soil can be cut and composted in the Fall, or in early Spring; it makes very little difference when the work is done, only see to it that the soil is well mixed. In preparing soil for this class of plants, as well as for all others, it should not be handled when wet ; for in this state the soil will get hard and lumpy, pre- venting its thorough incorporation with the manure. If cow manure cannot be secured, sheep manure will prove an excellent substitute; but being a much stronger plant food, not more than one part sheep manure to eight parts of soil must be used. When sheep manure is employed, it should not be mixed witli the soil until the last turning of the pile. All soils will be benefited by the addi- tion of some ground bone meal, in small quantities ; 1nit it should be "ground bone," not cut with sulphuric acid, which is very injurious to plant growth. Use one-half pound of bone meal to one cubic foot or 13^ pounds to a yard (27 cubic feet) of soil. The bone meal should be incorporated with the soil at its last turning. The same amount of wood ashes should be added to the soil when it is put into the boxes, or on the pond bottom. A word of caution as to the use of bone meal and wood ashes may not be out of place here : These materials should be mixed with the soil as directed, and should not come in contact with each other l)y applying them simultaneously. If this is done, the potash of the wood ashes will free the ammonia contained in the bone meal, which will evaporate and be lost. The bone meal should always be mixed with the soil a few weeks ahead of the application of the wood ashes. Oou for Seedlings The soil in which to raise water lily plants from seed should be a light sandy loam; or, if this is not available, then a good loam that has not been composted with manure, with the addition of one-third sand, or enough to give the soil the desired open texture. The whole should be passed through a quarter-inch screen. No manure must be used in the soil in which the seed is sown. ]\I-an- ure generally causes the soil to ferment, killing many of the young plants. It should only be used in the soil when the plantlets are ready to be potted off sep- arately into small two-inch pots ; then the addition of well-decayed manure will be beneficial and hasten the growth. When the plants are ready for a larger pot, the soil composted for the larger plants will answer, simply passing it through a half-inch screen. [43] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER V PLANTING AND WINTERING Planting in Soil on Bottom of Pond K T iHIS method of planting should be adopted only in large ponds where it will be difficult or impossible to draw off the water. The roots of the lilies, once planted where they have unrestricted room, will very soon spread over the whole pond and ^m ^ ^HK intermingle in such a way that the weaker growing kinds will be destroyed by the more robust ones. In planting roots in large, natural ponds, the roots should be pressed down into the soft mud, two or three inches deep, and held in place by stones until the plants get well rooted. If this be not done, the roots may be disturbed and rise to the surface. The majority of the hardy water lilies increase very rapidly from the roots, therefore should have plenty of room between the plants, es- pecially if in a large pond. The stronger growing varieties, such as all the Nymphaea odorata section (with the exception of Nymphsea odorata minor), Nymphsea Marliacea rosea, Nymphsea Marliacea carnea, Nymphgea Marliacea al- bida, Nymphsea Marliacea chromatella, Nymphsea alba, Nymphgea alba candidis- sima, Nymphsea Gladstoniana, with the reniformis (tuberosa) varieties, should be planted not less than six feet apart, and in the deeper water of the pond. None of the reniformis section should be planted on the bottom of the pond, unless the roots can be confined in an enclosure, formed either of brick or boards, set on edge in the shape of a box. [44] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING The medium varieties, such as Nymphsea Robinsoni, Nymphgea James Brydon, Nymphaea gloriosa, and Nymph?ea hicida, can be planted four feet apart, and in water of a depth of eighteen inches. The weaker growing varieties, such as Nymphaea helvola, Nymphsea pyg- mgea, Nymphaea Laydekeri rosea, Nymphaea Laydekeri purpurata, Nymphaea Andreana, Nymphsea Seignoureti, Nymphaea Marliacea flammea, Nymphaea Mar- Hacea rubra punctata, Nymphaea Arethusa, Nymphaea aurora, Nymphaea fulva, Nymphaea Marliacea lilacea, should be planted close to the edge of the pond in water from twelve to eighteen inches in depth, and from two to three feet between the plants. The leaf surface of the hardy water lilies varies with the strength and vigor of the plant. The stronger sorts named above will cover a circle of from six to eight feet in diameter, the medium growers from four to six feet; while the smaller kinds will cover a space of from two to four feet. The planting of hardy water lilies can be done at any time from the start of growth in Spring, generally about April first, up to the last week of August. While plants set out before or after these dates may do all right, there is a certain amount of danger of losing the roots by a late Spring or an early cold Fall, re- tarding the growth. The tender or tropical water lilies should not be planted until settled warm weather arrives, or until the temperature of the water reaches nearly yo". They should be set out from eight to ten feet apart. The tender night flowering water lilies are the strongest growers ; the leaves of these will cover a circle of from twelve to fifteen feet diameter. The tender day flowering lilies are not cjuite so vigorous, but will cover a space of from eight to twelve feet. The leaf surface of all water lilies, however, is governed by the amount of soil and plant food available, that of the very strongest varieties not occupying a space of six feet in diameter unless food and heat conditions are favorable. The tropical lilies will have been in pots for a few weeks, and will have several leaves when they are re- ceived from the growers. They should be planted carefully without damaging the ball. If the water is deeper than that in which the plants have been growing, the leaves, at planting, will be entirely submerged. This will have no damaging effect, as generally within a few hours the leaves will be floating on the surface. It is not well to plant any of the lilies in water more than three feet in depth (that is, with that amount of water above the roots) and in that depth only the very strongest growers should be placed. The tender lilies should be planted in the [45] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING pond, where they will have the benefit of the direct sunlight all day long, if pos- sible. Planting in Soil in Boxes or Tubs This is by all means the best method of growing water lilies, as then they are confined to the space allowed to each one, and the caretaker can walk among the boxes without danger of breaking the plants or stirring up the mud on the bottom of the pond. The size of the boxes, placed four feet apart, should be from two by two feet by one foot deep for the smaller Nymphseas, such as Nym- phaea pygmsea, Nymphaea pygmaea helvola, Nymphaea La}"dekeri rosea, Nym- phaea Laydekeri purpurea, Nymphaea Laydekeri lucida, Nymphasa Andreana, Nymphaea fulva, Nymphaea Arethusa, Nymphaea aurora, Nymphaea Seignoureti, Nymphaea Wm. Falconer, Nymphaea Marliacea rubra punctata, Nymphaea Mar- liacea ignea, Nymphaea jMarliacea flammea, and Nymphaea James Brydon ; and for the tender ones, Nymphaea Capensis, Nymphaea coerulea, Nymphaea Zanzibar- ensis and its varieties. Up to three by three feet by one foot for the larger growers like Gladstoniana, Marliacea rosea, etc. These boxes should be six feet apart from center to center. For the tropical lilies, such as Nymphaea O'Marana, Nymphaea dentata, Nymphaea Devoniensis, boxes four by four feet by one foot will be none too large, and they should be eight to ten feet apart from center to center. If oil barrels are available they can be sawn in two, and will answer very well in place of boxes. These barrels should be burned lightly to remove any oil or other deleterious matter remaining of their former contents ; they can then be filled with the soil, and carried to their places in the pond. The lily roots should be planted from two to three inches deep, and the soil covered with one inch of coarse sand or gravel to keep down the manure, and prevent the fish digging in the boxes. When all the lilies have been planted the water can be turned into the pond, and allowed to cover the crowns to the depth of four inches. This quantity of water will be suflficient until the plants begin to grow, when more can be added until the pond is full, care being taken that the plants do not receive a check from too much cold water being admitted at one time. It is better to supply the water in this manner than to fill the pond as soon as planting is done, as, if the latter plan be adopted, there is always danger of losing plants, especially newly divided roots. [46] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING The hardy lihes, once planted in boxes, need not be disturbed ; all that is re- quired the following Spring being to remove the sand, or gravel, and fork in a good top-dressing of cow manure, replacing the sand. The year following the boxes should be emptied and refilled with fresh soil and the roots of the lilies divided and planted as before. Cultural Directions for Aquatics After the lilies have been planted, their wants are few. All decaying leaves and flowers should be removed as soon as they begin to look unsightly. If scum should gather on the surface of the water, wash it toward the overflow pipe with the hose, when it can be easily got rid of. Green scum will form whenever new soil and manure have been added to the pond, the still, warm water having a tendency to promote the growth of this particular alga;. Should the scum appear in such quantities as to make the pond unsightly, allow a stream of water to flow through the pond for several days, which will soon abate the trouble. Keep the pond as nearly full of water as possible. If the water is allowed to get low, and a large quantity of colder water admitted the temperature in the pond will be lowered in proportion to the additional volume of water supplied. If only hardy lilies are grown in the pond this will make little difference, but trop- ical lilies thrive best in a temperature as near 80^ as possible ; therefore, where both hardy and tender lilies are grown in the same pond the temperature of the water should be maintained at that degree, or as near to it as can be. Keep a sharp lookout for insects and other enemies, never afl^ording them an opportunity to spread before applying proper remedies described in another chapter. VVintering Tuhers and Rhizomes After a good sharp frost, the tender lilies should be removed from the pond, and such as are required for Winter flowers in the greenhouse tank, or for pro- pagation, should be potted and placed in the tank. The leaves should be removed from the others and the tubers placed under the greenhouse bench, or in some other place where they can be kept cool without danger of being frozen, and away from mice and rats. After a few weeks these roots should be examined, and all the young tubers removed. These look very much like hickory nuts and will be found growing around the old tuber. They can be kept all Winter in pots, between layers of damp sand, at a temperature of from 50° to 60° until it is time to start them in the Spring. The old tubers of Nymph^ea Lotus and Nymph^a [47] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING rubra varieties are of no further use, as they begin to decay as soon as lifted from the pond and should be thrown away. All the Zanzibarensis, gracilis, Capensis, and ccerulea sections should be potted up and placed in water at a temperature as near to 50" as possible. This temperature will keep them in a semi-dormant condition until they are wanted in the Spring. If there is no greenhouse tank available in which to place the tubers they can be removed and stored in sand, as described above. The roots, or rhizomes, of the hardy lilies need not be removed from the pond if a sufficient depth of water can be maintained above the crowns so that the roots will not be actually frozen. This will have to be determined by per- sonal observation of the thickness of ice formed during the Winter. If there is danger of frost reaching the roots a quantity of tree leaves spread over the crowns, kept in place by a sprinkling of sand, or soil, over them, will protect the roots from frost without removal from the pond. If the lilies have been grown in boxes, or tubs, these can be carried into the cellar, or cool greenhouse, and placed under the bench. Whichever method is adopted care must be taken that the soil does not become dry, but is kept in a moist condition. This is essential to carry the roots successfully through the Winter. If the roots become dry, they will shrivel ; dry rot will result, which soon destroys them. More roots of hardy lilies are lost every Winter through being kept too dry than by being frozen. Just how much frost the roots will withstand has not been determined. It may be said that all lilies in the tuberosa, odorata and alba sections will withstand several degrees of frost, which would prove fatal to the tetragona (pygmoea) section and nearly all of its hybrids. The same is true of many of Marliac's hybrids. In cement basins, where there is danger of the walls being cracked by frost, it is well to draw off all the water, and either remove the boxes to the cellar or greenhouse, or fill the basin with tree leaves, placing evergreen branches on top of these. If this method of protection is adopted, some means must be taken to keep rats and mice from the basin, for if allowed access to the lily roots these vermin will soon destroy them, being very partial to the Nymphzea roots during the Winter months when other food is scarce. [48] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER VI HARDY WATER LILIES TliK hardy water lilies bco-in to Hovver very early in the season. in sheltered ponds in tlie vicinity of New York and Phila- delphia the hr>t week of May will see seyeral of them in bloom; and from that time well into Septem- lier riowcrs of hardy water lilies can be picked. The roots of the hardy lilies will commence to tlower within a few weeks after planting and keep on bloomino- throughout the season, so that one has not to wait a whole year for the plants to become estab- lished. The hardy lilies give us a great range and varia- tion in the form of the petals as well as in the color of the blooms. Some of the flowers rise above the water on stems of from six to nine inches: others float on the surface, presenting an endless var- iety in leaf and flower. The best of the hardy lilies spring from the American species, Nymphcea odorata, Nymj^hrea reniformis ( tuberosa ) and the Mexican variety, Xymphcea Mexicana. These, with the European species, Xvm- phacca alba and Xymphaea alba rubra, and the Chinese Xym])ha?a tetra- gona ( pygma^a ) have all been used by the hybridist to gi\e us the manv beautiful forms we now possess. Nymphcea odorata, the white fragrant pond lily of the X'^ortheastern States, is still a desirable one, and should Ije grown hx every person wdio cultivates water lilies. It delights in deep rich soil, and should be grown with its roots unhampered by box or partition. The flower is white, in size from three to five inches across, with golden yellow stamens ; the sepals and tips of the petals are very often tinted pink. The flowers are very fragrant. The leaves are dark green on the ui)per side while the under side is a reddish green. A large numl:)er of hybrids and chance seedlings from Xympluea odorata are now in cultivation. The best of these are Xymphciea odorata Luciana, a [49] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING variety of great beauty and vigorous growth ; the flowers measure from three to six inches across, and are of a beautiful rosy-pink color. In Nymphsea odorata Caroliniana we have a natural hybrid and a very beautiful one. The flowers are of a delicate rose-flesh color, while the stamens are clear yellow. The plant is of strong growth, with large leaves which often measure twelve inches in diameter. Nymphsea odorata exquisita produces flowers of a very deep intense rose- NYMPHAEA ODORATA W. B. SHAW carmine color. Unfortunately, this lily is becoming scarce, and it is now difficult to obtain the true variety. Nymphsea odorata gigantea, from the Southern United States, gives large, pure white flowers from four to seven inches across. The leaves are large, deep j' [50] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING green, with the u.Kler side generally tinted pnrplish at the margin ■ verv free flowering. ^^ ' -^ '^^^^ Nymphaea odorata minor produces sn,all, fragrant white flowers from two to three mches across. This ,i,y is „„,ch used for growing in tubs an for ,1 ing at the edges of ponds. ^ In Nymphaea odorata rosea we have .i,e far-fa„,ed Cape Cod pink water I.I,. The flowers, about four inclies in dian,eter, are of a beautiful rose pink color at he t.ps of the petals, deepening to intense pink at the center of the flower. The stamens are pure yellow. The flowers of this Nyn,ph^a are very fragrant : the leaves are dark reddish green on both sides Nymph^a odorata sulphurea is a hybrid between Nyn,ph.a odorata and Nymph^a Me.x.cana. The flowers nteasure from four to five inches across are of a deep sulphur yellow color, rising above the water to a height of from' three to s,x uKhes. The leaves are blotched with brown spots and float on the surface of the pond. A large flowering variety of the preceding is Nymphrea odorata sulphurea grandtflora. Th,s lily is larger in flower and leaf, otherwise it is identical with iMymphaea odorata sulphurea. Nyniph^a odorata ^^^ B. Shaw is a seedhng fron. the beautiful Xympl.^ea odorata Caroliniana. The plant flowers as freely as that well known variety The color of the flower is much deeper and brighter than that of the parent- it is a very desirable lily. Nymphaea odorata Jessieana gives flowers of large size and fine form of a J beautiful even pink color. The plant is free in flower and growth. j ^ i\ymphaea Mary exquisita is a fine sweet scented sort^, of large size and beautiful pink color, very free in flower and growth. It belongs to^he odorata section and is quite a desirable variety. The well known Nymphrea tuberosa (reniformis) is our native species from the West and Northwestern States. It has deep green leaves some of which stand out of the water to a height of twelve inches when crowded. It is one of the strongest growing lilies, and should not be planted unless the roots can be confined; even then it will soon spread all over the pond bv means of its seed. It throws pure white flowers, from four to nine inches in diameter with broad petals. The plant is only moderately free flowering, and not so desirable tor cultivation as some of the others. Nymph^a tuberosa rosea is not quite so vigorous in growth as its parent, but [51] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING it produces more flowers the color of which is a light shade of flesh pink. They rise above the water from two to three inches. Nymph.Ta tuberosa Richardson! is one of the finest of the hardy hhes, w.th pure white flowers, very double, and of large size, from six to eight inches across. ■jfrnau^ NYMPHAEA ODORATA MARY EXQUISITA The plant has the vigorous growth of the type. While it is one of the hardy lilies indispensable in every collection, it gives very few flowers for the amount of space it occupies. Nympha^a tuberosa rubra is a new hybrid of beautiful rosy-red color with red stamens; the flowers are from five to seven inches across, with the delicate perfume of the odorata section. The plant is of strong vigorous growth. This is quite a desirable variety, but not very free flowering. [S2] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nymph^ea alba is the well known white lily from Europe. The flowers float on the water, and n.easure fron. four to six inches aeross. The plant ],looms very freely and is of quick, strong growth. Nympha^a alba candidissinia is a large, free flowering white variety of strong- vigorous growth. The flowers are much larger than those of Xvn^pluea alb-r Ihe leaves are large and deep green. The plant blooms continuousiv throughout the season. NYMPHAEA ALBA In Nymphaea Alarliacea albida we have a pure white flower, of large size with yellow stamens and (juite fragrant. The sepals are tinted pink. ' The jWant is of free growth, and blooms continuously the whole season. The leaves are large, deep green above, the underside being deep red in the young stage. This is one of the best white water lilies in cultivation for all puri)()ses. ' Nympha^a Alarliacea rosea is still one of the best of the deep pink hardy I hhes, and a fitting companion to the preceding. The flowers are of large size, deep rose pink in color. The plant is very free flowering, and of strong, vigorous [53] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING growth, with large leaves which are purpUsh red in the young state changing to deep green. This is one of the choicest water lilies. In Nymph^a Marliacea carnea we have a lily similar to the last named m flower, leaf and growth of plant. The color is a soft flesh pink, deeper toward the NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ALBIDA center of the flower. The bloom exhales a sweet vanilla fragrance. The plant is very free flowering. Nymphjea Marliacea chromatella has charming canary yellow flowers, from four to six inches in diameter, with bright yellow stamens. The leaves are beau- tifully mottled with brown. The plant flowers freely, and is of easy, quick growth. [54] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING When It has remained undisturbed for some years the leaves become crowded and rise above the water at the center of the plant to a height of twelve inches thus hiding a larg-e number of the flowers. To avoid this the plant should be di- vided every two years. This is, at the present writing, the best yellow hardy water lily in cultivation for all purposes. In Nymph.-ea Wm. Doogue we have a fine lily, of delicate coloring. The flowers are large, of a soft shell pink color, with pink sepals, which are very wide NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA CHROMATELLA and slightly incurving, giving a beautiful cup-shaped bloom. The plant flowers freely the whole season. Nymphasa Gladstoniana is a fine lily of beautiful form and strong robust growth. It requires plenty of space for its best development at both root and top. The flowers are of the purest white, cup-shaped, with golden yellow stamens and f55] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING very lar.e. The plant blooms freely. This yariety shows s.gns ot tuberosa Tar „ a^e hr its leaves and growth. The leaves are dark green, the leaf stalk bdl" st-ped brown as in Xyn,ph- tuberosa. The plant is also ntcUned to push the leaves above the water. r i i ■ i ■ ^a With Nyntph^a Laydekeri rosea we come to a distinct class of hybr.ds. ra. d by M. Latour-Marliac. of Ten,ple-snr-Lc.. France, who has giv.n us ntany eauU^ ful and interesting hybrid water lilies. This lily is of the fornt ot Xjmph^a It," a ( tetra^o.;) which tt resenrbles in many ways, but not in the color and ;ertle fliers. On first opening tite bloom is of a soft shell pink, wh.ch as NYMPHAEA GLADSTONIANA NYMPHAEA TETRAGONA This illustration depicts the largest and the smallest of the hardy Water Lilies it cets Older becomes deep carmine rose. The stamens are orange red. The plant is moderate in growth, but very free flowering, and is desirable for tubs ana small pools, or for planting at the edge of a pond or tank. Nymph^ea Laydekeri lilacea gives fragrant flowers, of a soft rose-hlac color shaded bright carmine, with yellow stamens. The leaves are bright glossy green beautifullv blotched with brown. Nymphc-ea Laydekeri purpurata produces flowers of a carmine rose color, [56] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING darker toward the center. The center petals and sepals are of a bright rose and the stamens orange red. The plant tlowers freely and continuously the whole season. Nymphc-ea Laydekeri fulgens throws flowers of a brilliant crimson magenta color, with garnet rose stamens. The blooms are nicely cup-shaped. Xymphsa lucida has flowers of a rosy vermilion color, darker in the center, with orange stamens. The leaves are beautifully blotched with reddish brown.' The plant is very free in flower and growth. Nymphaea fulva gives flowers of a bright yellow color, with a red overlay, the general color being a bright carmine purple. Nymphaea odorata Luciar HARDY WATER LILIES Nymphaea James Brydc Xymphsea Andreana produces flowers of a dark red color shaded with yellow. The leaves are blotched with chestnut brown. The plant blooms freely and is a very desirable varietv. Nymphaea aurora gives flowers of a soft rosy yellow when first opening, changing to deep red as the flower gets older. Xymphc-ea Seignoureti has a medium sized flower, pale yellow in color shaded with pink and carmine, with orange yellow stamens. The blooms rise above the water to a height of six inches. The leaves are beautifully spotted with brown. This variety is free in flower. [57] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nymph^ea Arethusa gives a bright crimson pink flower, of large size. The plant flowers very freely. In Nymph^a James Brvdon we have a very fine hardy lily, one of the freest in flower and growth, and in every particular one of the most desirable of its class The flowers measure from five to six inches across; the petals are broad concave and incurving, giving a flower of a fine cup-shape. The color is a nch rosy crimson, while on the reverse of the petals is a silvery sheen. This variety is well adapted either for growing in tubs, boxes, or planted out in the pond. Nymph^a Wm. Falconer is the darkest colored of all the hardy water lilies in cultivation. The flowers measure from six to seven inches across, are of a bright garnet ruby color, with yellow stamens. The leaves are dark red when first unfolding, changing to deep green with red veins as the leaf reaches maturity. This variety is shy in flowering, otherwise it is excellent. Nymphaea gloriosa is a magnificent variety with flowers from four to six inches across of beautiful form, which float oiV the water. They are of a deep carmine rose color, becoming deep red with age. The plant is very free in flower, blooming continuously throughout the season. This lily is the best of this class for all purposes. Nympha^a Robinsoni gives a fine flower of a unique coloring; the ground color is yellow with an overlay of purplish red; the general tone being a dark orange red. The plant is very free in flower and growth, with dark green leaves spotted with brown above and dark red on the underside. This is one of the best, and should be grown by all who have a collection of hardy water lilies. Nymphsa Marliacea ignea produces flowers from four to five inches across of a deep carmine color with cardinal stamens. The leaves are of a rich bronze when young, changing with age to deep green with brown blotches. Nymphsea Marliacea flammea has large flowers of amaranth red shaded with white. The stamens are deep orange. The leaves are green much blotched with chestnut brown. Nymph^a flava is a pale yellow water lily from Florida. The flowers measure from three to four inches across, rising out of the water from three to six inches. The. leaves are dark green, blotched with brown. Nymphsea Mexicana gives a bright canary yellow flower from four to five inches across, with golden yellow stamens. The leaves are small, much spotted with brown on the surface, the underside dark crimson brown with black spots. [58] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENINg This is a free and continuous bloomer and is perfectly hardy at Philadelphia I his Illy and Nymphaea flava may winter-kill farther North. Nymph^a pygm^ea (tetragona) is the smallest Nymph^a in cultivation The flowers are white with yellow stamens, from one and one-half to two and one-half inches across. They exhale a tea fragrance. The plant is free in flower The leaves are dark green with occasional brown spots, the underside being reddish green. Nymphaea pygm^a helvola is the result of a cross between Nymph^a pyg- m^a and Nymph^a Mexicana. It gives beautiful small yellow flowers which float on the surface of the water. They are about two inches in diameter. The leaves NYMPHAEA GLORIOSA are small, beautifully mottled with brown spots, the under side of a reddish green color. The plant flowers freely and is well adapted for tub culture or for planting in shallow water at the edge of the pond. Nymphsea alba rubra is the true Swedish red water lily; a beautiful flower where it thrives well but, unfortunately, the water in nearly all our ponds is too warm for it, hence it is very rare in America. It should be grown in a pond, or [59] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING pool, fed with cold spring water. The color of the flowers is rosy carmine with orange stamens. Selections of the Best Hardy Water Lilies The best six hardy hlies for all purposes should include the following: Nvmph^a Marhacea albida, white; Nymphaea Marliaeea rosea, ptnk ; Nymphxa Maral chromatella. yellow ; Nymph.a gloriosa. red; Nymph.a odorata Caro- hniana, flesh pink; Nymph.-ea Robinsoni, orange red. The best twelve should include the foregoing with the £ollown,g additional six- Nymphcea Gladstoniana, white; Nymph.a tttberosa rubra, rosy red; NymphI gloriosa, carmine rose; Nymph^a W. B. Shaw br.ght rose pmk. Nymph^a alba candidissin,a, white; Nyn,ph=ea tuberosa R.chardson,, wl^. The best eighteen would include all of the above w.th the add.fon of Nymph^a lucida, rosy vermilion; Nympl^a odorata Luciana. rosy pmk; Nympl«a odorata, white; Nymph^a fulva, yellow shaded putk; Nymph.a Wm. Doogue, soft shell pink ; Nymphsa odorata rosea, rose pmk. ^ The best of the sn.all flowered forms are; Nymph^ea pygmaea whte, Nymph.-ea pvgm.-ea helvola, yellow; Nymph^a Mexicana, yellow ; Nymphsa lMympna:a ij» v,„nh.-pa Sei-noureti yellow shaded pmk and car- Laydekeri rosea, rose pmk ; i\yniph.-ea beignourcu, > mine; Nymphsea odorata minor, white. Dr. W. W. Evans, Hamilton, Va. AN AMATEUR" S POOL [60] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER VII NELUMBIUMS The7r "Desirahilky m the Water garden ELUMBIUMS. or Sacred Lotus as they are ,.ore com- monly named form one of the most interesting^ classes of plants in the vegetable kinodom. Thev\alvvavs command interest and adnnration because of the plant's sacred history and its beautiful, laro-e flowers, which are borne on tall stems towering above the stately sdvery bluish green leaves that often measure from two to two feet six inches in diameter and from three to eight feet in height. The grand foliage, aside from its magnificent flowers, well repays one for growing the Lotus' The Nelumbiums begin to bloom toward the end of June and continue t.:) flower well into August. The flowers, like those of the Nymphreas, open for three succes- sive days. The first day they never open full, but just enough to give one a glimpse of their beautiful stamens: the blooms quickly close, opening again the following morning, quite full, and remain open for several hours, then tlley close to open out quite flat the next da}-, when the petals begin to fall. The Xelumbiums are of quick gr.wvth, and if goo.l sized roots are planted they will flower the first season, if the location is congenial. If, however, they do not bloom the first year, they are sure to do so the following one. d he flowers are of beautiful colors, of large size, exhaling a delicate per- fume. The plants bloom freely when once established, and are perfectlv hardy as long as the roots are below the frost line or are not exposed to actual freezing. The Xelumbium is a native of Lidia, and was held sacred bv the Hindus. It was early introduced into Egypt and the Egyptians made use 'of the seeds for food. The seeds were gathered, dried in the sun, and pounded into a fine meal which was then baked into bread. The American Indians utilize the seeds of the American yellow Lotus. Nelumbium luteum. in a sinfilar manner. The Chinese and Japanese still eat the roots of the plant, which are offered for sale in their stores at the present time. The Xelumbium speciosum was introduced into America by Mr. E. D. Stur- tevant. of Bordentown, X. J., about 1876. A year or two later he set out one [611 THE BOOK OF WATER OARDENINg , , ;n the ooen which grew so luxuriantly that in eight years a space of three- waters an ace was covered with a .ass of flowers and foliage. Fro. t at ttae on the Nelunrbium has grown in popular favor and has been planted ex- tensivdy in all parts of A.er.ca. Many of the public parks and large pr.vate estates have a display of the Lotus every year. In Boxes Suimergei in Poni But its nlantinc. is by no means restricted to large places only ; many an But Its plantm^ is oy ^^^^ Nelumbium amateur has his Lotus growu,g m a ha .""^ *" ^ \ ^^ accommodation is can be cultivated very successfully m th,s way, .f no '""xolrry the roots of Nelumbiums safely through the Winter they should not be d- turr/il the Fall or Winter months, and, if possible, ^ ^^^ pond or basin throughout the Winter. If the roots are P>- f f / ^/^^^^ ^ bottom of the pond, they will be deep down u, the so.l out c^ ach o he H in boxes or half barrels in the pond, or basm, *= ™ots w 1 do. bottom of the receptacle and therefore out of reach o the f™''' J*; ^^ to the bottom of the pond. If this should happen the boxes should be a cellar where there will be no danger of them being frozen. ^"tL Nelumbiums are strong, robust growing plants -^^ ^^^_ amount of space, soil and food for their proper •'-^'°^^^^'l^^^^^\,,,,, .ended for the Nympha:as will suit the requirements of Nelumb.ums T obli he best results in growing Nelumbntms, they should ave a ba m . themselves where the roots will be allowed to run at ^^ ^^^^^ out roots a distance of fifteen feet in a smgle --°;' - '^^ t n e al other generally about eighteen '-'^^^''-^^^^^^Tf^ ts no pratt"^^^ to devote a growths in a pond with them will be killed. It n p basin to the Lotus, then a part of the pond, or basin. !^°f ^^^^^^^f ^^^^^^j...^, form of a box, of whatever shape and size desired. This should depTh to reach to the bottom of the pond. If the bottom is of concrete he box 1 rest on it allowing the edge of the box to extend ^^^^^^ ■1 ,f least six inches This will keep the floating runners within the conhnes : and pr t them getting over the edge. In making boxes for Ne lum^ biumsth corners should be filled in with a piece of wood, so cut that it wiU turn Te^oots aside and prevent them being Jammed into the corners where they would be injured. [62] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING The best urne to plant the Lotus is in the Spring, when settled warm weather has arrived, which will be, generally, about the second week in May in the North- ern States. At this time the roots receive very little check by removal as the warm temperature starts the plants into growth at once allowing little chance for the roots to decay, which they are likely to do if kept dormant for any length of time after being removed. If, for some unavoidable reason, planting has^o be deferred to a later date, then plants that have been started into growth in pots or pans should be procured in preference to tubers. In planting the roots care should be taken not to break the growing point of the tuber, which would render the tuber useless, and it may then be thrown away, unless there is another growing point on the root, which is rarely the case The roots should be planted in the soil in a horizontal position and covered with soil to a depth of six inches with a coating of two inches of gravel, or coarse sand as recommended in the case of Nymphjeas. ROOT OR RHIZOME OF NELUMBIUM Showing thre. growing points. In planting gr.at car. should be taken not to break the point or the plant wiU die [63] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Grown in "Boxes or Half Barrels Another method of growing the Lotus is to plant it in boxes or half barrels .1 -n thP basin treating them in the same way as recommended -.1 • fi.. hnve^ and there is therefore little danger of them escapm^. i r:;:;::;:r l:: .„ .. .. .. .e. .. o.. .. .„ ---;--- b! " :iar.e as the boxes previously described, these half barrels are more eas.ly n :d a «; 1 the basin. The boxes, or half barrels, should be overhauled every :: y ars. The receptacles should be filled with fresh soil as --™™nd«l NyZh^a culture, and three or four roots allowed for each box "^ ^^ J^^_ Zy he plants will bloon, the first year. The foUowutg Spr.ug »' ^ ^ "^ ,„i'ed will be to re„,ove the top soh and afford a good nch op d.es . manure, with a little soil ou fop, finishing with a layer of sand or gravel. Grown m Tuhs on the Lawn Nehuubnuns are also grown extensively in tubs or half barrels placed on the I,.v„ The tub is filled with soil to within six htches of the top, the tuber planted, and the remaining space in the tub filled with water. ..U that -■-«->; ^f^ ward is to replace the water lost by evaporation or seepage, and o s e th. the ub emptied at least every two years and fresh soil added. It -s also des.rable V oue'or two gold fish in each barrel to destroy the nroscu.to larv. tha wou^d otherwise hatch there. In heu of the fish a sn,all c,uan.,fy of X-se-,^ °d. s sufficient to cover the water with a thin fihn, can be pu, n,to each ba.rel once week; this will kill all the larv;e without injury to the plants Nehunbiun, speciosnn, is the well known so-called Egypt.an Lofns. th^^ow beautiful flowers about twelve inches across, of a deep rose co or on open fi„t day becoming paler as the flower gets older, until the thrrd day wh n tte r is creamv wWte at the base and center of the petals, the edge turted hgh. role pink The plant has large leaves, deep green above, light silvery green on the reverse. It grows and flowers freely. In Nelumbi^nn Pekinensis rubrum we have the best of the deep colored Nelumbiums. The growth of plant and leaves is magnificent, the flowers are very [64] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING large, of a bright rose carmine color, the petals somewhat rcflexed as in Nelum- bium speciosum, which this plant resembles very much in habit. It flowers freely and is verv desirable. NELUMBIUM PEKINENSIS RUBRUM The best of the deep colored Nelumbiums A double form of the preceding is Xelumbium P^ekinensis rubrum flore pleno, resembling the_ parent in color of flowers and habit of plant, but differing from it in the number of petals. The flowers are very double, and are borne on strong stems well above the foliage. [65] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nelumbium roseum gives flowers of a deep rose pink color, free in growth and flower. Nelumbium roseum plenum is another double form with bright rose colored blooms; very free in growth and flower. NELUMBIUM ROSEUM PLENUM Nelumbium album grandiflorum, sometimes called Nelumbium album flori- bunda, gives a fine pure white flower of large size and delicate fragrance. The leaves are large and deep green in color. This is the best white Lotus for all purposes. Nelumbium album striatum is a variety of the preceding, with all its good qualities. The flowers are fragrant, w^hite, with the petals striped and tipped rosy carmine. The plant is of vigorous growth and free in flower. [66] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nelumbium kermesinum produces flowers of a bright pink color, lighter than those of Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum; is free in flower and of easy cultivation. Nelumbium Shiroman is a magnificent variety, giving large double flowers; on first opening they are cream colored with a few of the petals tinted a light .^^^^ ^^ NELUMBIUM PEKINENSIS RUBRUM FLORE PLENO green ; as the flower gets older the color fades to pure white. This is a strong, robust plant, flowering as freely as Nelumbium speciosum. The blooms last well in the cut state. [^7] I THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nelumbium osiris is a beautiful cup-shaped blossom of deep rose color, strong in growth and free in flower. Nelumbium pygmxa alba is a dwarf, miniature, white flowered variety, truly a pygmeea in all its parts. The leaves never grow more than eighteen inches above the water. It is very useful for tub cultivation, or for planting at the edge of the pond, where a dwarf subject is desired. NELUMBIUM SHIROMAN A magnificent variety, giving large, double flowers Nelumbium luteum, the native American Lotus, is a beautiful yellow flowered aquatic, found growing wild in the Eastern and Central States of America. It is perfectly hardy, of easy culture, succeeding best where planted out in soil on the bottom of the pond. [68] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER VIII HEATING THE TROPICAL LILY BASIN A\'ING located a basin on the lawn, near the dwelling- house, it can be heated from the boiler used in the dwelling- during the Winter months, thus ena])ling one to grow the tropical lilies in the Northern States. All that is necessary is to place valves on the flow and return pipes near the boiler, so that the circulation can be regulated at will both as re- gards the house and the lily basin. A flow pi])e can be taken from the boiler, covered with asbestos, and run through a terra cotta pipe to the basin, which it should enter about six inches below the water level. The return pipe should be taken through the wall of the basin near the bottom and back to the boiler in the same manner, and in the same trench as the flow pil'C. This will insure a free circulation of the water. There are two methods of heating a lily l:)asin with hot water — one by run- ning pipes all around the basin, thus heating the water by contact with the pipes; the other, to use the basin as a large expansion tank, the flow pipe entering the basin a few inches below the water level, and the return pipe running from the side opposite to that in which the flow enters, so as to insure a proper circulation and mixing of the water. The first mentioned method is the better of the two, but the more expensive, owing to the amount of pipe required. This will be described first: If it is de- cided to use the boiler located in the cellar of the dwelling house for heating the pond, the flow pipe, if possible, should be graded so that the highest point will be at the boiler and a gradual fall secured all the way to the basin. Near the boiler, at the highest point, means should be taken to carry off all air that may accumulate there. This can be done by a pipe running to the expansion tank comiected with the system, or a pet-cock can be used, which will have to be opened by hand to allow the air to escape, failing which circulation will be stopped. The flow pipes [69] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING should enter the basin a few inches below the water level, at which point a tee can be placed from which branches can be run around the sides of the basin, grading them so that they will have a fall to the far end (12 inches in 100 feet will be ample), whence they can be returned, grading them with a fall to the boiler, either immediately underneath or a few feet from the flow, which will give a more uni- form temperature and a more even distribution of the heat. The size of the pipe used will depend on the size of the basin. For very large basins a flow pipe of three or four inches will be necessary, which can be run to the basin, and then sev- ■■v:^v:fvv:^->;.\^;?^v>. S^^>r /^^ov /'//°4' nnnnnnnn , ^^n',€ . v .A f^a- & n n D n D n fes :-i;./ Mv/.^ -^--r:.-': Top V/£h' o/" lOh/f/? D/f/JW/VG 6/D£ WflV A SUGGESTION FOR A HEATED POOL The above diagrams show the method of laying the pipes and arrangement for the boiler connection. The upper diagram also shows the position of the boxes in -which the Water Lilies are to be gro-wn eral branches of two-inch pipe run through the water. A pipe of similar size will answer for the return. The amount of radiation necessary to heat a basin to 90 is, approximately, one square foot of heating surface to every 100 to 125 gallons of water. To ascertain how many gallons of water are to be heated, measure the depth, length and width of the basin in cubic feet, add the results, and multiply by 7^, which will give the number of gallons the basin contains; then allow one square foot of radiating surface to every 100 to 125 gallons of water. [70] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING For the second method it is necessary to find the number of cubic feet of water contamed in the basin and the temperature to which the water has to be raised during the coldest weather, which will be, approximately, 50. Assuming the water m the tank to be 40; and desiring to raise it to 90; find the number of cubic feet of water in the basin which multiply by 62/,, the weight in pounds of a cubic foot of water. The result is then to be multiplied by the number of de- crees It IS desired to raise the water, which was taken as 50: this will give the heat units which must be imparted to the water by the fire. Under ordinary conditions, boilers of good construction now on the market will radiate not less than 7,500 heat units per pound of coal burned. Ordinary boilers will consume SIX pounds of coal per square foot of grate surface per hour, with good economy It IS necessary, therefore, to find how many heat units it is desired to impart to the water; this divided by 45,000 will give the number of square feet of grate surface required in the boiler to heat the basin. The flow pipe in this instance will be graded so as to have a rise from the boiler to the basin, which it will enter a few inches below the water level and stop just inside the wall of the basin. A strainer of gauze wire should be connected to the end of the pipe so as to prevent all foreign substances entering it. This strainer should be of large size; for a three-inch pipe a strainer of from six to eight inches diameter will be required; other sizes in proportion. The flow pipe should have a valve to be closed when cleaning the boiler, otherwise the basin would be emptied. The return pipe should be laid from the side of the basin op- posite that in which the flow enters, so as to insure the proper circulation and the mixing of the water. The return, likewise, should be protected by a strainer, and can be run in the same trench with the flow, but should have a good fall back to the boiler. A fall of one foot in a hundred will be ample for both flow and return pipes. Near the boiler, on the return pipe, a valve should be placed and a mud drum, which can be easily cleaned of any sediment deposited, which other- wise would reach the boiler. A very satisfactory arrangement for a mud recep- tacle is to place a tee on the pipe near the boiler, which can be increased, by the use of reducers, to take a much larger pipe. A piece of pipe about twelve inches m length will answer; this can be closed on the lower end by a cap that can be easily removed to clean out any sediment lodging there. If this latter method of heating be adopted, it is well to have a boiler that can be easily cleaned, as in nearly all lily basins there is all the time more or less mud in suspension which will be carried to the boiler. The quantity of mud in the [71] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING V-1 M ^ rt C "*-* r/l O u t; fl) ^f il o n. CS o J3 3 o .« Uj r^ M ^ ^ o ^ Sb- THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING water dcpciuls on how the ])Iants are thrown. If in boxes, and the soil in these is covered with a ,q-oo(1 layer of sand, there should he very little muddy water. On the other hand, if the lilies are planted in soil on the bottom of the basin, and the caretaker has to walk around amono- them, then considerable mud will find its way to the boiler in the course of time. If steam is available for heating" the water, all that is re(|uired is a pipe to circle the basin, with small openings in the pipe, every four feet, through which the steam may percolate. ( )ne must l)e certain, however, that the weight or pressure of water in the pool is not greater than the pressure of the steam or the apparatus will not work. As all basins are heated in order to give a temperature in which the tro])ical lilies will thrive well a word as to temperature may not be out of place here. The best results are obtained when a temperature of 80' to 90 tr^n l^e main- tained. A good average will be 85. In this temperature the A'ictoria rcgia can be planted early in May, should reach the blooming stage early in July, and from that date until late Fall will be in continuous flower. The other tropical lilies will reach maturity before the A'ictoria and will keep up a succession of dowers until killed by frost. Hence, in heating a lily basin, one can be assured of nearly six weeks" gain in the ."spring, and of several wxeks' protracted dowering in the Fall. If the Victoria is not to be grown in the basin, a temperature of 75" to 80° will be suf^cient for the other tender varieties. A few facts in regard to heating surface of pij^es of various sizes may be of interest. To secure 100 square feet of heating surface in 1 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 290^4 lineal feet. 1^4 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 230 lineal feet. 1 1/2 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 201 lineal feet. 2 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 161 lineal feet. 2IS inch pipe it will he necessary to use 132 2-3 lineal feet. 3 inch pipe it will be necessary to use log lineal feet. 4 inch pipe it will be necessary to use 84-'4 lineal feet. Approximate length of pipe i)er square foot heating surface : I inch 3 lineal feet. 1% inches 2 ft. 4 ins. 1 yi inches 2 ft. 2 inches i ft. 8 ins. 2^ inches i ft. 4 i"s. 3 inches i ft- i in. 4 inches i ft. One s([uare foot of grate surface will supply 200 to 250 square feet of radi- ation surface. A two-inch pipe will supply 200 to 300, and a three-inch pipe 600 to 800 square feet of radiation. [73] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER IX TENDER OR TROPICAL WATER LILIES Day Flowering OF the tender or tropical water lilies there are two distinct classes — one flowering during the day. the other during the night. The day flower- ing ones open their blossoms in the early morning hours and they re- main open until afternoon. To this section belongs Nymphgea gigantea from Australia, the finest of all the da^• l)looming blue lilies. The flowers are of the largest size and delicate in NYMPHAEA GIGANTEA Tender Day Flo'wering color, which is a soft purplish blue shading to white at the base of the petals. The stamens are very slender, of a soft yellow, slightly incurving, and quite dis- tinct from those of all other Nymphaeas. The flowers are borne on fine stiflf [74l i THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING stems well above the water. The leaves are green above, purplish on the under side. This plant requires for its fullest development a temperature of 80" to 90' with plenty of root room. It should never be subjected to a check from any cause. If the temperature of the water in the basin be allowed to fall several degrees, and to remain for any length of time below the figures given, the plants are likely to go to rest, and may remain dormant the remainder of the season; therefore, they should never be allowed to become pot-bound, or be subjected to sudden changes of temperature. Next in order of merit in this class is Xymphsea Zanzibarensis. This is the true royal purple water lily of Africa and still ranks as the best dark blue water lily in cultivation. It is extremely free in flower and growth. The plant sets seeds freely, but very rarely do the seedlings develop to the true deep purple color of the type; therefore, a plant should be procured from some dealer in aquatics in the Spring, and, if planted out, will make a tuber that season which can be easily carried through the Winter, forming a nice subject for the next season's planting. The surface of the leaves is deep green, the reverse being green and violet; they are from eight to fifteen inches in diameter. The flowers measure from five to ten inches across ; the petals are deep blue, sepals green on the out- side, purplish blue on the inner side. The stamens are very numerous, dark crimson violet on the outer surface. The flowers are very tragrant. The plant is free in flower, blooming continuously throughout the season. There are two other forms of this Xymphsea : Zanzibarensis azurea, and Zanzibarensis rosea; both are similar to the type in everything but the color of the flowers. The bloom of Xymphsea Zanzibarensis azurea is of a delicate azure blue, while that of Xymphsea Zanzibarensis rosea varies in color, diflferent plants giving from light rose to deep rose colored flowers. Another delicate light azure blue flower is X'ymphsea elegans, from Mexico and Texas. The blooms are of medium size, rarely exceeding more than three to four inches across. The color is a white ground overlaid with light blue. The stamens are yellow tipped with light blue. The leaves are long and narrow, green spotted chocolate brown. This is a beautiful flower, of dainty color, the plants blooming continuously from early in the season until cut down by frost. Xymphsea ccerulea, often named Xymphsea stellata, is the blue Lotus of the Nile, which was held sacred by the Egyptians. The petals are light blue above, dull white below, long and narrow ; the sepals are greenish white on the face, the reverse striped and spotted brown. The stamens are yellow. The leaves are [75] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING liglit green, with brown spots which fade to green as the leaves age ; the under side is green with dark purpHsh blotches, the edge tinted reddish purple. The flowers measure from three to six inches across and have long conical pointed buds. The plant blooms freely. ^ NYMPHAEA ZANZIBARENSIS ROSEA Tender Day Flowering Nymph?ea Capensis (scutifolia), from Africa and ^Madagascar, produces tiowers from six to eight inches across of a rich sky blue color. The sepals are green on the outside, white tlushed blue on the face. The leaves are green, often tinted with purple, the under side frequently tinted red, brown spotted. [76] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nymphsea pnlcherrima. a hyl)ri(l of Xymphct'a ccerulca, is a fine strong- grow- ing plant flowering very freely. The leaves are of large size, green, lobes long and tapering, the margin crenate : the under side green thickly spotted with NYMPHAEA PULCHERRIMA Tender Day Flo^vering purplish brown. The flowers are from six to twelve inches across, light blue in color ; stamens deep yellow tipped with blue ; sepals striped and spotted black on the outside. The buds are long and sharp pointed, as in Xymphsea gracilis. \77] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING In Nymphsea Pennsylvania we have the best of the light blue water lilies. The flowers are of large size, from eight to twelve inches across, of a rich blue color ; the stamens are yellow tipped blue ; the sepals striped and spotted with purplish black. The leaves are green with dark brown spots. This plant is very free in growth and flower, several blooms being on the plant at one time. It flowers continuously from early in the season until frost. Nymphrea gracilis, from Mexico, gives beautiful star shaped flowers, on NYMPHAEA PENNSYLVANIA Tender Day Flo^verinfi strong stems, rising above the water from twelve to fifteen inches. The blooms are pure white, with deep yellow stamens, and are slightly fragrant. It flowers through the season very profusely, and is specially interesting as being the only white flower in the day blooming tender water lilies. A number of seedlings have been raised from Nymphgea gracilis, with the Nymphasa Zanzibarensis types as the other parent. The results of these crosses are a number of beautiful blue and pink varieties, all resembling Nymphsea gracilis in the form of flower, stem and habit of growth. [78] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nymphaea Wm. Stone produces flowers from six to eight inches across, of a violet blue color, stamens purple with a deep yellow center ; sepals green on the outside, grayish blue on the inside. They are carried on strong stems twelve to fifteen inches above the water. The flower stems of this water lily are brown. NYMPHAEA GRACILIS Tender Day Flo'wering Nymphsea gracilis purpurea (Bisset) is identical with the last named, with the exception that the flower stems are light green. Nymphaea gracilis purpurea (Sturtevant) has, on first opening, flowers of a rich purple color, fading to violet blue, stamens blue. Nymphaea Mrs. C. W. Ward gives flowers of a deep rosy pink color, with [79] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING golden yellow stamens tipped with pink. The flowers are from eight to ten inches across. This is a fine strong growing plant, as free in growth and tlower as its parent, NvmphcTa gracilis, and is a very desirable variety. NYMPHAEA WM. STONE (Blue gracilis) (N. gracilis purpurea) Tender Day Flo'wering Nymphrea gracilis rosea perfecta (Stnrtevant) produces flowers of large size, on stems well above the water, of a fine deep pink color, with very little of the purple generally found in Nymphsea Zanzibarensis rosea, one of its parents. The flowers measure from eight to ten inches across. Nymphoea gracilis rubra (Sturtevant) gives flowers from eight to ten inches [80] THE WATER GARDEN M The Home or J'j THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING jOAKS, WASHINGTON, D. C. f G. Hubbard THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING across of a deep rosy cri„,so„ color; s.a,™„s crimson ; very nn.ch deeper in color than those of Nympha;a Zanzibarcnsis rosea. As Nymph^a Mexicana is no. hardy in'the colder sections of the country it may be well to g.ve a short description of it. TI,e flowers are bright canary yellow from four to five inches in dian,e.er, risin.5 on stems four to^ix inches above the water; the stan,ens are ,?olde„ yellow, tl,e leaves dark green blotched w.th brown; the un' '"«-'="' "' «»»", [ Nymphaea dentata superba is a new water lily, first offered for sale in the I Sprmg of 1906. It has a beautiful pure white flower, measuring from eiH,t to j twelve ,nches in dianreter, with yellow stamens without any trace of publish brown making it the only one of this type that does not show the brown near the ■ ,r 1 ' '' f "'"■ ^'' ''""' ''' ^"'"' "'"■ f^'"' S--"^'' -hite stripes on the outs.de, the inner side being white. This plant is also unique in that it comes [81] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING NYMPHAEA DENTATA SUPERBA A beautiful Night Flowering white Water Lily, introduced in the Spring of 1906 true from seed, therefore sliould have specific rank. The leaves are large, deep glossy green, finely dentate. The plant flowers very freely. Nymphsea dentata magnifica (a seedling from Nyniph?ea dentata X Nymphcxa Bisseti) (Bisset) is another new white water lily of the first rank. The flowers measure from eight to fourteen inches in diameter, have very wide petals, slightly concave, giving the flower a cup shape that enhances its value. The stamens are pure yellow with purplish brown spots near the base. The leaves are heavily dentate with wavy crumpled margins ; when exposed to the full sun the center of the leaf will take on a bronze color ; they measure from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. NYMPHAEA DENTATA MAGNIFICA-New Hybrid Tender Night Flowering [82] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nymphaea Jubilee gives white flowers from six to eight inches across. The petals and sepals have a slight tint of pink at their base. The leaves are green blotched with brown on the under side; the margin is crumpled and wavy, deeply dentate. Nymphaea Smithiana produces creamy white flowers. The stamens are pure yellow; the petals broad, slightly concave, suffused with pink on the outside. This is a beautiful flower when seen at its best, which is rarely the case as it re- quires a high temperature to perfect its color. NYMPHAEA JUBILEE Tender Night Flowering Nymphaea Devoniensis has the distinction of being the first hybrid among this beautiful class of plants. It was raised at Chatsworth, England, in 185 1, and named in honor of the Duke of Devonshire. The flowers are from eight to twelve inches across, of a bright rosy red color, and are borne on fine stiff stems well above the water. The stamens are cinnabar red. The surface of the leaves is dark bronzy green, greenish brown underneath. The leaves measure from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. The plant blooms very freely, several flowers in all stages of development being in evidence at one and the same time. [83] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nymphsea rubra is very similar to the last mentioned. The petals are less pointed than in Nymphsea Devoniensis, while the sepals are wider at the base. The leaves are mottled purplish brown on the under side, reddish bronzy brown on the surface, from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. The tiowers measure from six to ten inches across. There is little doubt that the true Nymphsa rubra has been lost to cultivation, and that what is here described as rubra is only a srarden varietv. NYMPHAEA DEVONIENSIS Tender Night Flowering Nymphc-ea rubra rosea is a fine water lily, producing blooms from six to ten inches across, of a deep brilliant rosy carmine color. The petals are wide at the base, tapering to the point ; the stamens are reddish brown at the tips and orange brown at the base. The leaves are deep green above faintly spotted brown with a slightly dentate margin. Nymphjea O'Marana ( Bisset) gives flowers from eight to twelve inches across, of a beautiful rosy red shade with a faint tinge of white down the center of [84] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING NYMPHAEA RUBRA ROSEA Tender Night Flo-wering the petals. The stamens are deep orange red ; the leaves deep bronzy green above, vi^ith dentate margin ; the reverse brownish green. This is one of the finest and freest flowering of all the night blooming class. Nymphsea George Huster is a seedling from Xymphnea O'Marana. The NYMPHAEA OMARANA Tender Night Flo^vering [85] I THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING color of the flower resembles that of Nymph^a rubra rosea, which was no doubt the pollen parent of this fine variety. The plant is as free in growth and flower as Nymph^a O'Marana, which it resembles in everything but the color of the bloom, which is a brilliant crimson. Nymph^a Deaniana produces light pink flowers. The sepals are deep rose pink both sepals and petals being very wide. The stamens are of a deep orange red color The leaves measure from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter and NYMPHAEA STURTEVANTI Tender Nigtt Flowering are dark bronzy green. The flower is cup shaped, after the style of that of its parent, Nymphjea Lotus, of which it is a seedling. Nymphsea Sturtevanti is a fine flower where it can be grown in a temperature of 80° or over. It delights in heat, and is never at its best unless kept warm. The flowers, from eight to twelve inches across, are of a beautiful rosy pink ; the petals [86] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING very broad and incurving, giVing the bloom a fine cup shape. The stamens are orange brown in color. The leaves are large, bronzy green ; the margins crumpled and wavy, with dentate edge. Nymphasa Frank Trelease is the deepest colored of its class, the flower being a brilliant glowing dark crimson, measuring from eight to ten inches across. The stamens are deep reddish brown. The leaves are extra large, from fifteen to eighteen inches across, of a beautiful dark bronze color; the under side is greenish brown. This variety is similar to Nymphjea Devoniensis in the form^ of the flower, but not so free in blooming, in which quality it is rather shy. NYMPHAEA BISSETI-A New Hybrid I Tender Night Flowering l| I Nymphaea Bisseti (Bisset) is another pink flower, of beautiful form, the j result of a cross between Nymphaea dentata and Nymphsa Sturtevanti. The j flowers measure from eight to ten inches across, are of a beautiful rose pink color, j the petals being extra wide, slightly concave, forming a cup shaped bloom. The stamens are deep orange colored ; the leaves deep bronzy green above, the under side brownish green with dark brown spots. The plant is very free in flower and growth. Nymphaea Kewensis produces light pink flowers, from six to eight inches across. The leaves are dark green, slightly bronzed with a few spots of deep brown. There is a doubt of this being the true Nymphsa Kewensis. [87] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER X VICTORIA REGIA T Flower ol EURYALE FEROX First cousin to Victoria regia lilS remarkable water lily was named in honor of the late Queen A'ictoria, by Dr. Lindley, who described and so named it, in 1837. It has very large, round, floatiuf^- leaves from four to seven feet in diameter. The edges of the leaves are turned up from two to eight inches at right angles to the surface of the water, giving the leaf a platter-like appearance, hence one of its common names, "the Water Platter." Another popular name given it by the natives of South America is "Water Maize," or "Water Corn"; this is a very appropriate appel- lation as the seeds are gathered and eaten by these natives. The riowers, measuring from eight to fifteen inches across, open at dusk and remain open all night, partly closing about 10.30 a. m., and again opening at nightfall. The color of the flower when lirst expanding is a pure creamy white gradually chang- ing, as the flower grows older, to pink, and then to deep purplish red on the sec- ond night. The flower is very fragrant, exhaling a sweet pineapple odor that is perceptible a great distance from the plant. The upper side of the leaf is of a rich green color; the lower surface of a deep purplish green, with many very prominent veins that radiate from the center to the margin of the leaf; these again are connected by smaller veins running transversely, so that the whole under surface is divided into a number of irregularly arranged quadrangular compart- ments or pockets. The vein and leaf stalk are covered with strong spines. The under side of the leaf is well shown in the illustration. The A'ictoria is represented by three well defined sorts which are native cf South America, from British Guiana to Argentina. It was first discovered by Haenke in Bolivia, in 1801 ; again by Bonpland near Corrientes, Argentina, in 1819, and by Poeppig, in 1832, on the Amazon River, who described it under the name of Euryale Amazonica. D'Orbigny found it in 1827, at Corrientes, and again in 1833 in Bolivia, but he did not publish his record until a few years later, [88] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING [89J THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENINg mental herbaceous plants [90] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING In 1836 Robert H. Schombiirgk discovered the \"ictoria growing in the Berbice River in British Guiana, whence he sent specimens to England which Dr. Lindley described and named Victoria regia in 1837. Schomburgk, in describing the largest plant he saw, said that one leaf measured six feet five inches in diameter with a rim five to six inches high ; the flowers were fifteen inches across. It may be of interest to state that the size of the leaf as here given has been exceeded in cultivation. On a plant grown in the Bartholdi fountain basin, in the United States Botanic Garden at Washington, D. C, in 1891, the largest leaf measured seven feet six inches across; the plant covered a space of forty-seven feet in diameter. This plant was grown without artificial heat after it was set out on the first of June; it was under the care of Mr. George W. Oliver. The other species found at Corrientes was named Victoria Cruziana. in honor of General Santa Cruz of Bolivia, by D'C )rbigny, in 1840. This is the species that was introduced to American gardens in 1894, and the following year sent out as Victoria Trickeri. It succeeds well in a much lower temperature than either Victoria regia or Victoria Randi ; therefore is better adapted to outdoor culture. The {Dlant is similar to \'ictoria regia in leaf and flower, except tliat the turned up edge begins to show at a much earlier stage of growth. The leaf is also of a lighter green color all over the surface, with purplish green below whilst its upper edge is more even and uniform than in the other species in which it is rather uneven and ragged. This Victoria also flowers much earlier than either regia or Randi, and requires less heat to hrmg it to ])erfection. The seeds will germinate in a temperature of 70" to 75' and the plant can be grown in a temperature 10' colder than can X'ictoria regia. In 1840 Bridges obtained seeds of Victoria regia from the province of Moxos, in Bolivia, and sent them to Kew Botanical Gardens, England; from this seed three plants were growai but they died the following Winter. Early in 1849, seeds arrived in England from two physicians named Rodie and Luckie, who sent them from the Essequibo River, in bottles of water. From these plants were raised, and on November 8 of the same year one flowered at Chatsworth. England. From this plant seed was distributed throughout Europe, some of it being also sent to America. The first plant grown in the United States was in the garden of Mr. Caleb Cope, at Philadelphia, the late Professor Thomas Meehan being the gar- dener. The first flower opened on August 21, 185 1. In 1886, Mr. E. D. Sturtevant, of Bordentown, N. J., flowered a plant raised from seed that he obtained from Mr. Edward S. Rand, Jr., of Para. Brazil. This [91] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING was quite distinct from Victoria regia, the flower being white changing rapidly to deep crimson. The foHage was reddish colored, with very prominent reddish veins on the outside of the turned up edge of the leaf, the rim of which was deeper than in Victoria regia. This variety was named Mctoria Randi, FLOWER OF VICTORIA REGIA The Victorias require a high temperature and full exposure to sunlight to bring them to perfection, which cannot be done in the northern section of Amer- ica without artificial heat. The plants will grow and do well in Washington, [92] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING D. C, without artificial heat during one of the hot Summers for which that city is famed ; but, ordinarily, they will not flower in time to ripen seed, rarely bloom- ing until the latter part of August. The proper temperature for Victorias regia UNDER SIDE OF A LEAF OF VICTORIA REGIA and Randi is 85° to 90° ; Victoria Trickeri will succeed in a temperature of 70° to 75°- The Victoria, as grown in gardens, is treated as an annual, the seeds being sown every year. These should never be allowed to become dry as this is fatal to them. As soon as they are gathered they should be kept in bottles of water. The [93] THE BOOK OF WA TER GARDENING seed sluniUI lie sown in jannarv or I'eliruarv. in a teniperalnre as near to 85° as possible for rei^ia and Randi. while ihose of Triekeri slionld be stnvn in a temper- ature of 70' to 7^\ la'forc sowinj;-, lile or enl a small hole tlu\)Ui;h the hard outer shell of the seed, as is conmionly done ^\•ith eanna seed. This nielhod was first tried bv Mr. lames I". Clark, of Iviverton, N. j., with wonderful success, in FLOWER OH VICTORIA REGIA TRICKERl germinating- the seeds of Mctoria. Stwv the seeds in a shallow Fern pan, or pot, filled with fine soil without manure, and stand the pan in a tank of water, within four inches of the surface, jdacing it where it can have the full sunlight. If a heated brick or cement tank in which to start the seed is not available, a tank made [Q4l THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENINg of copjx'r or galvanized iron slioulrl be procurcfl, and tlic lieal .supplied b\- a small oil stove. By this means plants can Ije grown ; but it is a very unsatisfactory method as the lamp will require very careful watching, and with the best of care the temperature of the water will fluctuate considerably. The best jjlan is to have a cement or brick tank located in the greenhouse, near the boiler, whence a sejjarate flow and return ])i])e should be run to the tank, aivl around it, under the A FLOWER OF VICTORIA REGIA RANDI water, so as to secure the necessary temperature. When heat is not required in the other greenhouses the valves on the heating pipes entering these houses can be closed, thus keeping the tank at the desired temperature for the Victorias without having to carry the heat through the other houses when it is not needed there. Some of the seeds will germinate in from two to three weeks, while others may take much longer. As soon as the young plants have made the second, or [95] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING floating leaf, they should be potted singly into two and one-half or three-inch pots, u'lin^'soil which has passed through a one-half inch screen, with the addition of one-third manure. The plants can then be placed in a tank where a tempera- ture of 85° to 90° can be maintained. The young plants should never be allowed to become pot-bound but should be shifted on into larger pots as they require it; and within three months they should be in eight or ten-inch pots or pans. It is preferable to use a pan as, being of less depth, a shallower tank is required for its accommodation. The plants should not be set out in their Summer quarters out of doors until settled warm weather has arrived. It must be remembered that as the Victorias come from a tropical climate a sudden check would prove fatal to them; therefore, before planting in their Summer quarters the temperature of the water in the basin in which they are to be placed must be the same as that in which the plants had previously been growing. If the basin is heated, the Victorias can be planted in the open any time after the first of May in the latitude of Washing- ton and Philadelphia; for New York about the second week, and for Boston toward the end of the same month. The dates here given refer to an ordinary season, but in setting out any tender plant one should not be guided by the date but by the condition of the weather. A safe rule would be to plant the Victorias, if in a heated basin, as soon as It is safe to plant out Coleus in the open ground. The size of the basin necessary in which to grow a plant of Victoria should not be less than thirty feet across, with a depth of three feet at the center where the box or receptacle for soil will be placed. This box should be eighteen inches deep and from eight to twelve feet square. It is not necessary that the basin should have a uniform depth of three feet, the bottom can slope from this depth to from one foot six inches to two feet at the edge, if so desired. Also, it will be unnecessary to have the full three feet in depth, as a box of one foot will answer as well as one of eighteen inches, provided it is made large enough to afford the plant the same quantity of soil. Some means of heating the basin, in places farther north than Washington, D. C, is necessary in order to obtain the best results and the reader is referred to a previous chapter on "Heating the Tropical Water Lily Basin." In greenhouse establishments where very tender tropical plants are grown a little fire is carried in the boilers through the Summer ; in such places it would be well to locate the Victoria tank near the boiler house, so as to utilize the same boiler for heating the tank. When Victoria plants are ordered from growers of water lilies, they are [96] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING generally shipped in the pans in which they have been growing. On their arrival the temperature of the water in the pond should be taken, and if found below 80° the plants should be placed in a greenhouse tank ; or if such a tank is not available, then a half barrel or any other receptacle large enough to hold the plant should be placed in the greenhouse, where the water surrounding the plant can be kept at the desired temperature until the water in the pond can be made warm enough for the safe planting of the Victoria outside in its Summer quarters. The Euryale ferox was, until the discovery of the Victoria regia, the largest and handsomest of all the aquatic plants in cultivation as to size of leaves, which resemble the young leaves of the Victoria before the edges turn up. The leaves of the Euryale are round, deep green in color, with many little rounded eminences on the upper surface ; the under side is of a rich purple color with the same prom- inent veins and spines as seen in Victoria. The size of the leaves is from two to three feet in diameter ; the flowers are small, about two inches across, of a deep purple color. The plant is a native of India and is cultivated near Bengal for its seeds, which are gathered, baked and eaten by the natives. The plant is a hardy annual as far north as Philadelphia, coming up every year from seed selfsown the previous Summer, plants from which in turn will ri])en seed and self sow in a similar manner. [97; THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER XI THE SMALL WATER GARDEN Selections of the Best VC^ater Lilies and S^quatic Plants for the Beginner T IE l)cst water lilies for g-ro\ving in a half barrel, if two plants are to be grown in the one receptacle, arc Xym])lKea pygnicca, white ; Nymph?ea pygiiKea helvola, yellow; or in ])lace of either of these, Xynipha^a Laydckeri rosea, pink. A half hogshead will accommodate two plants of the hardy water lilies, of moderate growth. The best red or wine colored one is Xymphsea gloriosa ; the best white, Nympha^a Marliacca albida ; the best yellow\ Nymphsea Marliacea chromatella. For growing in a small tank the best hardy lilies are the last mentioned three and the following: Nymphc-ea Andreana, Xymphoea James I'rydon, Xym- phrea W. 15. Shaw, Xymphrea Robinsoni, XymplKca Laydekeri rosea, X'ymphaea Marliacea rosea and Xymphaea Gladstoniana. The tender day flowering lilies are more vigorous in growth than the latter and, therefore, require more room. Only one plant can be grown in a half barrel, while two will be sufficient for a half hogshead. The best pale blue is Xymph.xa Pennsylvania ; Xvmph ; Thalia dealljata ; Sagittaria Alontcvidcn- sis ; and, ruiming over the soil as a carpet, the .Myrio])hyllum proserpinacoides. These plants should be kept well watered, as they are all semi-aciuatic subject.^., delighting in lots of water. Among aquatic plants other than the X_\niph;eas, suitable for growing in tubs, Limnocharis Humboldtii is one of the best. It grows f|uicklv and flowers profusely all Sununer, bearing yellow ]K)])])y-shaped blooms. Limnanthemum indicum is a very ];retty ])lant for a tul) ; it bears little white flowers beautifully fringed, and blooms very freely all Sumiuer. Limnan- themum nymphaeoides gives pretty little golden yellow^ ll(nvers, and blooms pro- fusely all the season. These two ])lants can be grown in the same tub if the last named is kept pinched back so that it will not overrun the former and choke it out. The Water Hyacinth, Eichhornia speciosa, is also well adapted for growing in a tub, which should be half filled with soil, the remaining space with water, and the plants placed in the tub. They will soon root in tlie soil and commence to fiower, continuing in bloom all through the Summer, ddiey flower best in a l)ar- tially shaded position, or where the sun will only reach them during the morning and afternoon hours. Eichhornia azurea is also a fine plant for a tub : it is a stronger plant than E. speciosa, but flowers as profusely throughout the Sumiuer. NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ROSEA [99] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER XII MISCELLANEOUS AQUATIC PLANTS UND^:R this head arc inchuled all plants that grow entirely submerged — roots, stems, and leaves — also such plants as grow in water but send up stems and leaves above the surface. The former plants are mostly grown in ponds and tanks where fish culture is carried on, as they are useful in keeping the water supplied with oxygen and also give the fish excellent material to spawn on, the eggs adhering to the stems and leaves. They are also grown in aquaria for the same purpose. The others are cultivated for ornamental pur- poses, many of them having flowers or attractive foliage to recommend them. Acorus calamus (Sweet Flag) grows to a height of two to three feet, and has lance-shaped-leaves. In Acorus calamus varicgatus the young leaves are striped with a deep yel- low, which fades to a paler color as they get older. Acorus gramineus growls to a height of from eight to twelve inches, forming a round grassy tuft. Acorus gramineus varicgatus is a beautiful variegated plant ; the leaves are narrow, grass-like and striped with white. All the Acorus grow in shallow water or in damp soil, and are propagated by division of the root in Spring or Fall. Anacharis Canadensis gigantea (Giant Water Weed) is the finest submerged water plant for the fish culturist, or for the aquarium. It is a rapid growing plant, with dark green linear leaves and brittle stems. It will grow floating on the water or planted in the soil ; it is perfectly hardy and a little of it in the pond will be useful as it is an excellent thing for the gold fish to spawn on. Care should be taken, hoii'ever, tJiat it does not get beyond eontrol or it zvill prove a nuisance. Aponogeton distachyum (Cape Pond Weed) is a very interesting aquatic plant from the Cape of Good Hope. The white flowers are borne on forked spikes and are arranged in pairs. They are very fragrant, having the odor of fiool THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING the hawthorn. The anthers are purple, the leaves oblong-, lanceolate, floatin