F 551 .D62 mm mm mmmtm ..J« I ""mm ♦ L1BRARY-()F COXGl{i:SS. ♦ # : t # # JUNITED STATES OF AMi:RlCA.^ v^ / : ///X ^ LOSSING-BARMTT. — Arched Rock.— Mackinac. THE GREAT LAKES, OR INLAxND SEAS OF AMERICA; EMBRACING A PULL DESCRIPTION OF LAKES SUPERIOR, HUROiX, MICHIGAN, ERIE, AND ONTARIO; RIVERS ST. MARY, ST. CLAIR, DETROIT, NIAGARA, AND ST. LAWRENCE; LAKE WINNIPEG, ETC.: TOeSTHEB WITH TUB COMMERCE OF THE LAKES, AND TRIPS THROUGH THE LAKES: GIVING A DESCRIPTION OF CITIES, TOWNS, ETC. FORMING ALTOGETIIEE 3. Complete (3mbt FOE THE PLEASURE TRAVELLER AND BMiaRANT. COMPILED BY J. DISTU-ill^ELL, AUTEOE OF THE " PICrrURESQiJB TOURIST," ETa NEW YORK: PTJBLISHKD BY CHATII^ES SCRIBl^KR, * NO. 124 GRAND STJJKET, Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by JOHN DISTURNELL, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York, fss\ PREFACE. In presenting to the Public the present volume, entitled " The Great Lakes, or ' Inland Seas' of America," embracing the Magnitude of the Lakes — Commerce of the Lakes — Trip through the Lakes — Route from Lake Superior to Lake Winnipeg — Tables of Distances, etc., together with a Description of Niagara Falls and the St. Lawrence River, the Compiler wishes to return his sincere thanks for the liberal patronage and the many kind favors received from those who have doubly assisted him, by contributing reliable and useful information in regard to the many interesting locaUties in which the Great Valley of the Lakes and of the St. Lawrence abounds, affording altogether many new and interest- ing facts of great importance to the Tourist, who may wish to visit the Inland Seas of America for health or pleasure ; the tour being one of the most healthy, picturesque, and wonderful — when viewed as a whole, from Lake Winnipeg to Lake Superior, and thence to the Gulf of St. Lawrence — on the face of the globe. In the arrangement and compilation of this work every attempt has been made to render the information it contains concise and truthful. The Magnitude and also the Commerce of the Lakes are themes of great interest, they now being whitened by a large fleet of sail-vessels, in ad- dition to the swift steamers and propellers which plough the waters of these Great Lakes, transporting annually large numbers of passengers, and an immense amount of agricultural and mineral products, to and from the different ports. iv PREFACE. Lake Superior, the Ultima Thule of many travellers, can now be easily reached by lines of steamers starting from Cleveland and Detroit, running through Lake Huron and the St. Mary's River ; or from Chi- cago and Milwaukee, passing through Lake Michigan and the Straits of Mackinac. All these routes are fully described, ia connection with the Collmgwood Route, and Route to Green Bay ; affording altogether ample and cheap opportunities to visit every portion of the Upper Lakes and their adjacent shores. The most noted places of Resort are Mackinac, Saut Ste. Marie, Muni- sing, near the Pictured Rocks, Marquette, Houghton, Copper Harbor, Ontonagon, Bayfield, and Superior City. If to these should be added a Trip to the North Shore of Canada, visiting Michipicoten Island, Fort William, and other interesting localities — passing Isle Royale, attached to the State of Michigan — the intelligent Tourist would see new wonders of almost indescribable interest, while inhaling the pure atmosphere of this whole region of Lake Country. Among the Mineral Regions may be found objects of interest sufficient to induce the tourist to spend some weeks or months in exploration, hunting, and fishing ; and if, added to this, should be included a journey to the Upper Mississippi Valley, or Lake Winnipeg, an entire season could be profitably employed. For a full description of the Lower St. Lawrence, Lake Champlain, Saguenay River, etc., the Traveller is referred to the "Picturesque Tourist," issued a few yc^rs since. J. D. New York, July, 1863. CONTENTS. PART I. Page. ^lasriiitnde of the I^akes or " Inland Seas."— Lake Superior, 13 Lake Michigan — Green Bay — Lake Huron — Georgian Bay — Lake St. Clair — Lake Erie, 14 Lake Ontario — Tributaries of the Lakes, &c., 15 Lake and River Navigation, 16 Altitudes — Topography and Meteorology, H Upper Lakes— The White Fish, 18 Fish of the Upper Lakes, 19 Physical Character of the Mississippi Basin— Physical (Character of the St. Lawrence, 20 Dimensions of the Great Lakes — Progress of Development, 21 Lunar Tidal Wave in the Great Lakes, 22 Remarkable Phenomena — Rising and Falling of the Waters, 24 PART II. Commerce of the Lakes. — Early History, 25-2o First Steamboat on Lake Erie, 29 Tonnage of the Lake Districts in the United States 30 Commerce of Buffalo, 1864 — Canadian Inland and Ocean Navigation 31 New York State Canals 32 Imports of Breadstuffs into Great Britain — Fisheries, &c 33 Lumber and Staves — Copper of Lake Superior 34 Business on Lake Superior — Shipments of Copper 35 Iron and Iron Ore — Shipments, &c 36 Iron and Iron Ore of Lake Superior 37-38 Peninsula Railroad of Michigan 39 Canal Commerce — Erie Canal 40-41 Trade and Commerce of Chicago 42-43 Product of Breadstuffs for Exportation — Shipments of Flour and Grain 44 Pork and Beef Packing — Beef Cattle 45 PART in. Trip Through the L.aRes.— Buffalo, 46 Buffalo to Detroit — North Shore Route, 47 Port Colborne — Port Dover — Port Burwell — Port Stanley, &c., 48 Point Pelee — Detroit River — Amherstburg — Sandwich — Windsor — &c., 49 Route from Niagara Falls to Hamilton and Detroit. — St. Catharines — Dundas, &c., 60 Paris — Woodstock — Ingersoll — London — Chatham, Ac, 61 VI CONTENTS. Buffalo to Goderich, C. W. — Dunville — Brantford, &c., 52 Lioilerich — Table of Distances from Buflalo to Toledo, 53 Buffalo to Cleveland, Toledo, &c. — Dunkirk, Barcelona, &c., 54 Erie — Conneaut — Ashtabula — Fairport, Painesville, &c., 55 Cleveland — Perry Monument, . 56 Steamboat Route from Cleveland to Detroit, 57 Black Ri^er — Vermilion — Huron — Sandusky — Toledo, &c., 58 Railroads Diverging from Toledo — Perry sburgh, 59 Maumee City — Monroe — Trenton, &c. — Route Around Lake Erie, 60 Ohio and Erie Canals — Fort Wayne, 61 Table of Distances from Cleveland and Detroit to Superior, 62 Detroit — Railroads, &c., 63 Detroit River — He la Perche, * 64 Detroit to Milwaukee — Increase of Lake Cities, 65 Grand Rapids — Grand Haven, &c., 66 Trip from Detroit to Mackinac, Chicago, &c. — Trip Across Lake Michigan, . . 67 Ashley, Algonac — Newport — St. Clair, &c., 68 Southerland — Port Huron — Fort Gratiot — Sarnia, &c., 69 Route from Sarnia to Goderich, &c. — Kincardine — Saugeen, 70 Route from Port Huron to Saginaw City — East Saginaw, &c, 7-1 Lake Huron — Saginaw Bay — Tawas Bay, «fec., 72 Lower Peninsula of Michigan — Alpena — Duncan, &c., . . • 73 Old Mackinac — Grand Traverse City — Manistee — Grand Haven, &c., 74 Steamboat Route from Detroit to Green Bay, &c., 75 Green Bay — Fort Howard — Oconto, &c., 76 Nenomee City — Pensaukee — Peshtigo — Gena, &c., 77 Green Bay to Fond Du Lac. — DePere — Kaukauna — Appleton — Neenah — Oshkosh, &c., 77-78 Fond Du Lac — Meeting of the Waters, 79 Ports of Lake Michigan. — Michigan City, &c., 79 New Buffalo — St Joseph — Niles — South Haven — Holland, &c., 80 Chicago. — Railroad Routes, &c., 80-81 Distances from Chicago to Mackinac, &c., • 82 Naval Vessels on the Lakes. — Mississippi and Michigan Canal, 83 Route from Chicago to Mackinac and Saut Ste. Marie, 84 Waukegan — Kenosha — Racino — Milwaukee, 85 Granaries of Iowa, Minnesota and Wisconsin, 86 Sheyboygan — Manitouwoc — Kewaunee — Ahneepee, &c., 87 Manitou Islands— Fox Islands— Beaver Islands— Strait of Mackinac, &c., 88 Mackinac— The Town and Fortress, 89 Lover's Leap — Altitudes of Various Points, 90 Arched Rock — Sugar Loaf, &c., 91 Island of Mackinac, 91-92 Round Island — St. Martin's Bay — Doint de Town — St. Joseph's Island — Lime Island, &c 93 Nebish Island — Sugar Island— Lake George — Church's Landing, Sec, 94 St Mary's River— Description of 95 Saut Ste. Marie — Fort Brady, 96 St, Mary'g SUiip Canal — Boscription •f , 97 CONTENTS. Vll Distances trom Collingwood to Saut Ste. Marie — Opening and Closing of Navigation, 98 CoUingwood — Fisheries, &c., 99 Georgian Bay — Collingwood to Saut Ste. Marie — Penetanguishene, &c., . . . . 100 Owen's Sound — Lonely Island — Smith's Bay — She-ba-wa-nah-ning, &c., 101 Man-i-tou-wah-ning — Little Curreut — Bruce Mines, &c., 102 Trip from Collingwood to Fort William, C. W., 103-105 Distances Around Lake Superior, 106 Grand Pleasure Excursion Around Lake Superior, 106 Keweenaw Point — Light Houses, &c., 107 White Fish Point— Point au Sable, 108 Pictured Rocks— The Chapel, &c., 109-113 Lake Superior Region — Grand Island — Munising, &c., 114. Remarkablk Phenomena — Monumental Rock, 115-116 Rise and Fall of the Waters of Lake Superior, Ill Marquette — Iron Mountain, 118 Trout Fishing — Bay de Noquet and Marquette Railroad, 119 Granite Island — Huron Isles — L'A^nce — Portage Entry — Houghton, 120 Portage Lake — Hancockr— Keweenaw Point, 121 Copper Harbor — Agate Harbor — Eagle Harbor — Eagle River— Ontonagon. . , 122 Lake Superior — Its Climate and Health-Restoring Influence 123 La Pointe — Madeline Island, 124 Bayfleld — Ashland — Twelve Apostles' Islands, 125 Healthy Influence of Lake Superior, 126 Superior City— Table of Distances — Fond du Lac, 127 St. Louis River — Portland — Clifton — Buchanan — Encampment — Beaver Bay — Pigeon Bay and River, 128 Northern Shore of Lake Superior — Isle Royale, 129 Fisheries of Lake Superior — Trout Fishing, 130 Vessels Lost in the Lake Superior Trade, 131 The Lakes— Land of the Free, &c., 132 Trip Along the North Shore of Lake Superior, 133 Taquamenon Bay — Mamainse Point — Montreal Island — Michipicoten Harbor, 133 Michipicoten Island — Caribou Island — Otter Bay — Slate Island, 134 Copper Regions of Lake Superior — North Shore, 134 Fort William, C. W. — McKay's Mountain — Kaministiquai River, 135 Thunder Bay — Pie Island — Black Bay — Neepigon Bay — Island of St. Ignace, 136, PART IV. Route from Lake Superior to I^ake IVinnipeff, Dog Lake — Savan or Prarie Portage, &c., , 13t Savan River — Raiuy Lake and River — Lake of the Woods, .,,,.,...,,...,,. 138 V/innipeg River — Lake Wiunipeg, , ^ • i ^ • •. t • 139 Lakes in the Valley of the Saskatchewan — Red River Qf the North,, , , 140 Red River Settlement, 1^1 Distanoes from Fort Williftm to Fort A]e:xander, Fort Garry, 4po., 142 vill, CONTENTS. PART V. Railroad and ISteamboat Route from RuflTalo to l^ia^ara Fall§, Toronto &c 143 "Waterloo — Grand Island — Navy Island — Chippewa, 143 Falls of Niagara — Drummondsville — Battle of Lundy's Lane, 144 Clifton — Queenston — Brock's Monument, 145 Fort George — Fort Niagara — Niagara River, 146 Grand Island — Tonawanda — Schlosser's Landing — The Rapids — Goat Island, 147 Goat Island Bridge— Bath Island, &c., 148 Niagara — Horse-Shoe Fall, &c., 149-150 Whirlpool and Rapids — Village of Niagara Falls — Niagara City, 151 Suspension Bridge and the Cateract and Rapids of Niagara, 152-154 Rate of Charges at Niagara Falls — Lewiston — Youngstown, 155-156 Route Around Lake Ontario, 156 Lake Ontario, 157 Fort Niagara — Mouth of Niagara River, 158 Steamboat Route from Lewiston to Oswego, Kingston and Ogdensburgh, 159 Steamboat Route from Lewiston to Toronto, Kingston, Montreal, &e 159 Alphabetical List of the Principal Ports on the Great Lakes — Situation, Temnerature. &c., .* lGO-162 Rapids of the St. Lawrence— Thousand Islands, 1 62 PART YI. Appendix. — Father Marquette and his Discovery of the Mississippi River 163-164 Discovery and Settlement of Mackinac — Island of Mackinac 165-166 Visit to the Mines of Portage Lake 167-168 Lake Superior Copper Mining Companies — Iron Mining Companies, &c. . .169-171 Mineral Wealth of Lake Superior 172 Advertisements. — Lake Superior Line Steamers 173-174 Goodrich's Lake Superior Line — Steamboats on Lake Michigan 175 Chicago and Northwestern Railway — Routes to Green Bay, Upper Missis- sippi, &c 176-177 Illinois Central Railroad — Chicago to Cairo, &c 178 Grand Trunk Railway and Steamers — Sarnia Line — Royal Mail Line 179-180 Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad and Steamship Line 181 Milwaukee, Prairie du Chien, and St. Paul Railway 182 American Express Steamers — Lake Ontario and River St. Lawrence 183 New York Central Railroad — Albany to Buffalo and Niagara Falls 184 Great Western Railway of Canada 185 Hotels, and Business Advertisements 186-192 TABLE OF DISTANCES, From Boston, New York, PliiludclpHia and Baltimore, to Niagara Fall§, BiifTaio, Cleveland. &,c. Miles. 1. Boston to Albany, via Western Railroad of Massachusetts, 200 Albany to Xiagara Falls, via New York Central Railroad, 306 — 506 Niagara Falls to Detroit, Mich., via Great Western Railway of Canada,. 230 — 736 2. New York to Albany, via Hudson River Railroad, 145 Albany to Buffalo, via New York Central Railroad, 298 — 443 3. New York to Buffalo, via Erie RaUivay, 432 Buffalo to Cleveland, Ohio, via. Lake Shore Railroad, 183 — 615 4. New York to Harrisburg, via N. J. Central Railway, 182 Harrisburg to Pittsburgh, via Pennsylvvnia Central Railroad, 249 — 431 Pittsburgh to Cleveland, via Pittsburgh and Cleveland Raikuay, 150 — 581 5. Philadelhhia to Pittsburgh, via Pennsylvania Central Railroad, 356 Pittsburgh to Cleveland, via Pittsburgh and Cleveland Railroad,... .-. .150 — 506 6. Philadelphia to Elmira, \'\% Philaddphia and Elmira Railway, 275 Elmira to Buffalo, via Erie Railway, 159 — 434 7. Baltimore to Harrisburg, via Northern Central Railway, 85 Harrisburg to Elj-hra, N. Y. " • " " 171—256 Elmira to Buffalo, via Erie Railway, 159 — 415 8. Baltimore to Pittsburgh, via Pennsylvania Central Railroad, 334 Pittsburgh to Cleveland, Ohio, via Pittsburgh and Cleveland Railroad,. 150 — 484 Cleveland to Detroit, Mich., via Steamboat Route, 120 — 604 Boston to New York, Railroad Route, 236 New York to Philadelphia, Railroad Route, 90 — 326 Philadelphia to Baltimore, *' " 98 — 424 Baltimore to Washington, " " -^0 — i^-^ RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE, From New York to Lake Superior. STOPPING PLACES. Total Miles. Usual Time. Hours, Nb-w York to Albany, by Railroad l45 5 Albany to Buffalo, " 298 443 10 Albany to Niagara Falls, " 304 Buffalo to Cleveland, Ohio, " 183 626 7 Cleveland to Detroit, by Steamboat, 120 T46 8 Detroit to Port Huron, " IB 819 6 Port Huron to Saut Ste. Marie " 277 1,096 24 Saut Ste. Marie to Marquette " 160 1,256 14 Marquette to Ontonagon, *' 226 1,482 20 Ontonagon to Bayfield, " 78 1,560 t Bayfield to Superior City, " 80 1,640 t Total Running Time, 4 days and 12 hours. Usual Fare from New York to Bufifalo $ 9 35 •* " New York to Cleveland, 14 35 " " New York to Detroit, Mich 16 35 Detboit to Lake Superior and Return Iflarquette in 1864. Extract from the Lake Superior Mining Journal, December, 1864. During the present year our town and vicinity have made steady and substan- tial advance in all its interests. Our iron — the great staple of the district, the in- dex of civilization on the dial-plate of time — has become more widely known, and secured the investment of nearly $4,000,000 of capital in our county, large- ly increasing the valuation of real estate as well as all other property. Tliirteen new mines have been opened, out of which only one has afforded so poor a prospect as to be abandoned. We have shipped 248,000 gross tons of iron ore from our docks, and supplied about 25,000 tons to the several furnaces, making a product of nearly 300,000 net tons for the district. The price of this ore on the docks has ranged from five dollars to seven and one-half dollars per ton, or an aggregate valuation of $1,5 00,- 000. The sum total of shipments for the several mines for the season have been as follows: Jackson 63,223 gross tons. Lake Superior 93.929 " Pittsburgh and Lake Angeline. . 19,000 " Cleveland 54,148 " Our charcoal pig furnaces have become a very valuable adjunct to our iron mi- ning. "We have now seven stacks com- pleted, with a capacity to consume 45,000 tons of ore next season, and all the " signs of the times" indicate that they will be fully employed. The manufacture of charcoal pig has this year proved one of the very best investments in the county — as the statements of the profits of the Morgan Furnace, which appeared in our columns a few weeks ago, will show — a net profit of 220 per cent, in ten months. In addition to our iron business, the last year has developed a new and valua- ble interest in two parallel ranges of hills which extend across that part of the Up- per Peninsula lying between Presque Isle — three miles north of Marquette — and the head of Keweenaw Bay. This is known as the Gold and Silver Lead Region, The geology and topography of this dis- trict are quite peculiar, and we think the former not yet well known. As far as we have seen it ourselves, it consists prin- cipally of metamorphic slate — chloritic, talcose, silicious, and sometimes horn- blendic. The formation is very irregular, and frequently cut through by granite and trap-dykes. It consists for the most part of ivvo series of small parallel ridges running in a northerly and southerly di- rection, which series of ridges constitute two parallel hill chains extending in a west-northwest and east-southeast direc- tion across the above-mentioned part of our country. These ridges are quite abundant in quartz veins, which have been found to carry auriferous and argen- tiferous ores. Agriculturally, we have not yet at- tracted much attention. But now, the days of our infancy having passed, and the word having gone forth that we are to live, it is beginning to be understood that we afford one of the best markets in the States for all kinds of produce. Our soil, too, contrary to an opinion generally received a few years ago, is proving rich for agricultural purposes. The following products for this year are beheved to be very near the exact figures for the county. We expect to be able, however, to give our readers a carefully prepared agricul- tural report for this year, compared with the products of last year, compiled by- Sidney Adams, Esq., — the most extensive farmer in the county. COPPER AND IRON ORE. There were raised 20,000 bushels of potatoes, 3,000 bushels of ruta bagas, 200 tons of hay. Some estimate of the prob- able amount of land cultivated in potatoes can be made from Mr. Adams's farm. He planted seventeen acres, and dug nineteen hundred bushels. The cost of cultivating the land was $850, and the value of the crop $2,850, making a clear gain of $2,000. Mr. (jrcorge Rubleiu informed us a few weeks ago that from about one acre of land he had this year raised three hun- dred bushels of this valuable crop. This was a large yield, but there no longer re- mains a question that capital invested here in agricultural pursuits will return as large a dividend as in any enterprise on the Lake. There is every reason to believe that wiieat, oats, hay, potatoes, turnips, and other garden vegetables ; apples, pears, cherries, and many other fruits, can be raised here abundantly. The climate of Lake Superior is well adapted to mining and manufacturing iron upon a large scale. The air is pure, cool, and bracing, and men labor without fa- tigue or depression of spirits ; fevers of every description are unknown, and even contagious diseases lose their virulence in that invigorating atmosphere. It is by no means the hyperborean and inhos- pitable region which it is by many sup- posed to be. Agricultural products which can be successfully raised in Northern New England and Lower Canada, can be raised in the Lake Superior region as well. The former is a theory of thermomet- rical observations for two years, ending September, 1859, taken at Marquette, and reported to the Smithsonian Institute ; it will serve to dispel any extravagant no- tions, as to the severity of the climate : -1S57-S- -1858-9- Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan. Feb. Mar. April May June July Aujr. High- Low- est, est. 33° 25 1 5 3 12 12 19 28 89 44 40 Mean of the month. 58.15-100° 45.11 2S.87 28.16 25. 5S 12.72 28.(58 37.19 44.75 59.87 6^3.68 63.55 High- est. 1 83° 44 38 40 41 57 62 84 81 93 97 Low- est. 40° 36 15 3 9 10 1 12 34 31 40 40 Mean of the month. 56.56-100* 45.38 31.09 24.60 21.27 19.76 30.89 33.79 50.54 54.18 65.31 64.17 Mean for the year " " Autumn. . " Winter . . " " Spring . . . " " Summer . 1857-8. .41.35 .44.04 .22.14 36.87 .62.36 1858-9. 41.45t 44.34 21.8T' 88.8r 61.22. Copper and Iron Ore, Toll§, &c. Statsment of Copper and Iron Ore; also. Iron in bars, Ac, passing through St Mary's Ship Canal, from 1855 to 1864 inclusive. Copper Iron ore Iron fn bars, &,c. Copper Iron ore Iron in bars, &c. Tons, Tons, 1855 8,199 1,447 I860 8,614 116,998 5,660 1856 5,727 11,597 1,040 1861 7,645 45,837 4,194 1857 5,760 26,184 1,325 1862 6,881 113,014 6,438 1858 6.944 31,035 2,59T 1863 10,043 181,567 8,000 1859 7,805 65,769 6,030 1864 8,562 236.166 12,951 Statkment, showing the Receipts for Toll on St Mary's Ship Canal. 1855 Beseipts $4,874 1856 7,594 1857 9,406 1858 10,883 1859 16,941 I860 24,477 1861 16 672 1862 21,607 1863 80,574 18S4 85,714 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES, OR " INLAND SEAS." POTHING- but a \oyage over all of ; the great bodies of water forming the " Inland Seas," can furnish the tourist, or scientific explorer, a just idea of the extent, depth, and clear- ness of the waters of the Great Lakes of America, together with the healthy influence, fertility, and romantic beauty of the numerous islands, and surrounding shores, forming a circuit of about 4,000 miles, with an area of 90,000 square miles, or about twice the extent of the State of New York — ex- tending through eight degrees of latitude, and sixteen degrees of longitude — this region embracing the entire nortli half of the temperate zone, where the purity of the atmosphere vies with tlie purity of these extensive waters, or " Inland Seas," being connected by navigable rivers or straits. The States, washed by the Great Lakes, are New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Mich- igan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minne- sota, and Canada West — the boundary line between the United States and the British Possessions running through the centre of Lakes Superior. Huron, St. Clair, Erie, and Ontario, together with the connecting rivers or straits, and down the St. Lawrence River to the 45th paral- lel of latitude. From thence the St. Lawrence flows in a northeast direction through Canada into the Gulf of St. Law- rence. The romantic beauty of the rapids of this noble stream, and its majestic flow through a healthy and rich section of country, is unsurpassed for grand lake and river scenery. I^ake Superior, the largest of the Inland Seas, lying between 46'' 30' and 49° north latitude, and between 84* 30' and 92° 30' west longitude from Green- wich, is situated at a height of 600 feet above the Gulf of St. Lawrence, from which it is distant about 1,500 miles by the course of its outlet and the St. Law- rence river. It is 460 miles long from east to west, and 1*70 miles broad in its widest part, with an average breadth of 85 miles ; the entire circuit being about 1,200 miles. It is 800 feet in greatest depth, extending 200 feet below the level of the ocean. Estimated area, 31,500 square miles, being by far the largest body of fresh water on the face of the globe — celebrated alike for its sparkling purity, romantic scenery, and healthy in- fluence of its surrounding climate. About one hundred rivers and creeks are said to flow into the lake, the greatest part being small streams, and but few navigable ex- cept for canoes, owing to numerous falls and rapids. It discharges its waters east- ward, by the strait, or river St. Mary, 60 miles long, into Lake Huron, which lies 26 feet below, there being about 20 feet descent at the Saut Ste Marie, which is overcome by means of two locks and a ship canaL Its outlet, is a most lovely and romantic stream, embosoming a num- ber of large and fertile islands, covered with a rich foliage. 14 MAGNITIDE OF THE LACES. 1L.ake Iffichig^an, lying 576 ft. above the sea, is 320 miles long, 85 miles broad, and 700 feet deep; area, 22,000 square miles. This lake lies wholly within the oonlines of the United States. It pre- sents a large expanse of water, with but few islands, except near its entrance into the Straits of Mackinac, through which it discharges its surplus waters. The strait is 30 or 40 miles in length, and discharges its accumulated waters into Lake Huron, on nearly a level with Lake Michigan. At the north end of the lake, and in the Straits, are several large and romantic islands, affording delightful resorts. Oreeii Bay^ a most beautiful ex- panse of water, conlaining several small islands, lies at about the same elevation as I-ake Michigan; it is 100 miles long, 20 miles broad, and 60 feet deep ; area, 2,000 square miles. This is a remarkably pure body of water, presenting lovely shores, surrounded by a fruitful and healthy section of countr3^ liUkc Huron, lying at a height of 574 feet above the sea, is 250 miles long, 100 miles broad, and 7&0 feet greatest depth; area, 21,000 square miles. This lake is almost entirely free of islands, presenting a large expanse of pure water. Its most remarkable feature is Saginaw Bay, lying on its western border. The waters of this lake are now whitened by the sails of commerce, it being the great thoroughfare to and from Lakes Michigan and Superior. Oeorg:ia» Bay, lying northeast of Lake Huron, and of the same altitude, being separated by islands and headlands, lies wholly within the confines of Canada. It is 140 miles long. 55 miles broad, and 500 feet in depth; area, 5,000 square miles. In the Nortli Chaanel, which com- municates with St. Mary's River, and in- Georgian Bay, are innumerable islands and islets, forming an interesting and ro- mantic feature to this pure body of water. All the above bodies of water, into which are discharged a great number of streams, find an outlet by the River *S^^. Clair, com- mencing at the foot of Lake Huron, where it has only a width of 1,000 feci., and a depth of from 20 to 60 feet, flowing with a rapid current downward, 38 miles, into Lake St. Clair, which is 25 miles long and about as many broad, with '^ small depth of water ; the most difficui navigation being encountered in passing over ^'' St. Clair Flats,^^ where only about 12 feet of water is afforded. Dttroit River, 27 miles in length, is the recipient of all the above waters, fiowing southward through a fine section of country into Lake £]rie, the fourth great lake of this immense chain. This latter lake again, at an elevation above the sea of 564 feet, 250 miles long, 60 miles broad, and 204 feet at its greatest deptli, but, on an average, considerably less than 100 feet deep, discharges its surplus waters by the Niagara River and Falls, into Lake Ontario, 330 feet below; 51 feet of this descent being in the rapids immediately above the Falls, 160 feet at the Falls themselves, and the rest chiefly in the rapids between the Falls and the mouth of the river, 35 miles below Lake Erie. This is comparatively a shallow body of water; and the relative depths of the great series of lakes may be illustrated by saying, that the surplus waters poured from the vast ha-sivs of Superior, Michi- gan, and Huron, flow across the ^^'//e of Erie into the doe}) boni'vX Ontario. Lake Erie is reputed to be the only one of the series in which any current is perceptible. The fact, if it is one, is usually ascribed to its shallowness; but the vast volume of its outlet — the Niagara River — with its strong current, is a much more favorable cause than the small depth of its water, which may be far more appropriately ad- duced as the reason why the navigation is obstructed by ice much more than either of the other great lakes. - -^ LAKE ONTARIO TRIBUTARIES OF THE LAKES. 13 The ascertained temperature in the mid- dle of Lake Erie, August, 1845, was tem- perature of air 76*^ Fahrenheit, at noon — water at surface 73*^ — at bottom 53*^. Lake Oaitario, the fifth and last of the Great Lakes of America, is eleva- ted 234 feet above tide- water at Three Rivers on the St. Lawrence ; it is 180 miles long, 60 miles broad, 600 feet deep. Thus ba-sin succeeds basin, like the locks of a great canal, the whole length of waters from Lake Superior to the Gulf of St. Lawrence being rendered navigable for vessels of a large class by means of the Welland and St. Lawrence canals — thus enabling a loaded vessel to ascend or descend 600 feet above the level of the ocean, or tide-water. Of these five great lakes, Lake Superior has by far the larg- est area, and Lake Ontario has the least, havmg a surface only about one- fifth of that of Lake Superior, and being some- what less in area than Lake Erie, although not much less, if any, in the circuit of its shores. Lake Ontario is the safest body of water for navigation, and Lake Erie the most dangerous. The lakes of great- est interest to the tourist or scientific traveler are Ontario, Huron, together with Georgian Bay and North Channel, and Lake Superior. The many picturesque islands and headlands, together with the pure dark green waters of the Upper Lakes, form a most lovely contrast during the summer and autumn months. The altitude of the land which forms the water-shed of the Upper Lakes does not exceed from 600 to 2,500 feet above the level of the ocean, while the altitudo of the land which forms the water-shed of Lake Cham plain and the lower tribu- taries of the St. Lawrence River rises from 4,000 to 5,000 above the level of the sea or tide-water, in the States of Ver- mont and New York. The divide which separates the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, from those flow- ing northeast into tlie St. Lawrence, do not in some places exceed ten or twenty feet above the level of Lakes Michigan and Superior ; in fact, it is said that Lake Michigan, when under the influence of high water and a strong northerly wind, discharges some of its surplus waters into the Illinois River, and thence into the Mississippi and Gulf of Mexico — so low is the divide at its southern terminus. When we consider the magnitude of these Great Lakes, the largest body of fresh water on the globe, being connected by navigable Straits, or canals, we may quote with emphasis the words of an English writer: "How little are they aware, in Europe, of the extent of com- merce upon these 'Inland Seas,' whose coasts are now hned with flourishing towns and cities ; whose waters are plow- ed with magnificent steamers, and hund- reds of vessels crowded with merchandise I Even the Americans themselves are not fully aware of the rising importance of these great lakes, as connected with the Far West. TRIBUTARIES OF THE GREAT LAKES AND ST. LAWP.ENCE RIVER. Unlike the tributaries of the Mississip- pi, the streams falling into the Great Lakes or the St. Lawrence River are mostly rapid, and navigable only for a short dis- tance from their mouths. The following are the principal Rivers that are navigable for any considerable length : 16 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. AMERICAN SIDE. Miles. St. Louis River, Min Superior to Fond du Lac 20 Foic, or Xeenah, Wis Green Bay to Lake Winnebago* 36 St. Joseph, Mich St. Joseph to Niles 26 Grand River, " Grand Haven to Grand Rapids 40 Muskegon, " Muskegon to Newaygo 40 Saginaw " Saginaw Bay to Upper Saginaw 26 Maumee, Ohio Maumee Bay to Perrysburgh 18 Genesee, N. Y Charlotte to Rochester 6 CANADIAN SIDE. MileS. Thames Lake St. Clair to Chatham 24 Ottawa La Chine to Carillon 40 " (By means of locks to Ottawa City)\. . . 70 Richelieu or Sorel Sorel to Lake Champlain (by locks) 15 Saguenay Tadusac to Chicoutimi 10 (thence to Lake St. John, 50 m.) LAKE AND RIVER NAVIGATION, Greatest Av. breadth, breadth. 170 85 FROM FOND DU LAC, LAKE SUPERIOR, TO THE GULF OF ST Lakes, Kivers, etc. '^ mfles ^" Superior 460 St. Mary's River 60 Michigan 320 Green Bay 100 Strait of Mackinac 40 Huron 250 North Channel 150 Georgian Bay 140 LAWRENCE. El. above sea. St. Clair River. Lake St. Clair* Detroit River Erie Niagara River Ontario St. Lawrence River. Lake St. Francis, foot Long Saut. . . ! Lake St. Louis, foot Cascade Rapids At Montreal Lake St. Peter Tide- water at Three Rivers At Quebec 38 25 21 250 35 180 160 5 85 25 20 100 20 55 H 25 3 10 3 58 100 2 58 18 10 10 10 40 1 18 1 40 1 40 2 4 5 3 12 1 1 10 20 20 20 10 10 Depth in feet. 800 to 100 100 100 to 200 100 to 200 500 to 60 to 20 to 60 200 600 600 ft. 516 " 576 " 575 " 574 " 574 " 574 " 568 " 564 " 234 " 142 " 58 " 13 " 6 " " " Total miles navigation 2,835 ♦ By means of 17 locks, overcoming an elevation of 170 feet. ♦ T^K*"' 'l?/'^?^'"" J?'^ steamers extends 150 miles above Ottawa City, by means of portages and locks, inc At C /air_^lats which have to be passed by all large steamers and sail vessels running from J^kc hric to the Upper Lakes, now affords twelve feet of water, the ship channel being very narrow and winding, whore stands a light and buoys to guide the mariner ALTITUDES TOPOGRAPHY AND METEOROLOGY. 11 ALTITUDE OF VARIOUS POINTS ON THE SHORES OF LAKE SUPERIOR. LocALiTiBS. Above Lake Superior. Above the Sca. Lake Superior 000 feet. 600 feet. Point Iroquois, South Shore 350 " 950 " Gros Cap, C. W., North Shore '700 " 1,300 " Grand Sable, South Shore 345 " 945 " Pictured Rocks, " 200 " 800 " Iron Mountains, " 850 " 1,450 " Quincy Copper Mine, Portage Lake 550 " 1,150 " Mount Houghton, near Keweenaw Point 1,000 " 1,600 " Porcupine Mountains, South Shore 1,380 " 1,980 *' Isle Royale, Michigan 300 " 900 " Minnesota Mountains (estimated) 1,200 " 1,800 " Michipicoten Island, C. W 800 " 1,400 " Pie Island, " 760 " 1,360 " St. Ignace (estimated) " 1,200 " 1,800 " McKay's Mountain, " 1,000 " 1,600 " Thunder Cape, ♦* 1,350 " 1,950 *• TOPOGRAPHY AND METEOROLOGY. "The mountains of the region along the south shore of Lake Superior, consist of two granite belts in the northwest, the Huron Mountains to the southward, a trap range starting from the head of Kewee- naw Point, and running west and south- west into Wisconsin, the Porcupine Moun- tains, and the detrital rocks. The Huron Mountains in places attain an elevation of 1,200 feet above the Lake. The highest elevation attained by the Porcupine Moun- tains is 1,380 feet. " Meteorological observations were in- stituted by order of the Government at three military posts in the District, viz. : Forts Wilkins (Copper Harbor), Brady, and Mackinac. From these observations it appears that the mean annual tempera- ture of Fort Brady is about one degree lower than that of Fort Wilkins, although the latter post is nearly a degree further north. This diiference arises from the insular position of Keweenaw Point, which is surrounded on three sides by wat-^r. The climate at Fart Brady, dur- 2 ing the whole season, corresponds in a remarkable degree with that of St. Peters- burg. The temperature of the region ia very favorable to the growth of cereals. The annual ratio of fair days at Fort Brady is 168; of cloudy days, 77; rainy days, 71; snowy days, 47. " The temperature of the water of Lake Superior during the summer, a fathom or two below the surface, is but a few de- grees above the freezing point. In the western portion, the water is much colder than in the eastern — the surface flow be- coming warmer as it advances toward the outlet. The mirage which frequently oc- curs, is occasioned by the difference be- tween the temperature of tlie air and the Lake. Great difficulties are experienced from this cause in making astronomical observations. "Auroras, even in midsummer, are of frequent occurrence, and exhibit a bril- liancy rarel}^ observed in lower latitudes." — Foster tf; Whiiney^s Report. 18 MAGNITUDE OP THE LAKES. THE UPPER LAKES, OR "INLAND SEA," OF AMERICA. This appellation applies to Lakes Hu- ron, Michigan, and Superior, including Green Bay, lying within the confines of the United States, and Georgian Bay, which lies entirely in Canada. These bodies of water embrace an area Of abont 15,000 square miles, and, as a whole, are deserving of the name of the 'Inland Sea,' being closely connected by straits or water-courses, navigable for the largest class of steamers or sail vessels. The shores, although not elevated, are bold, and free from marsh or swampy lands, presenting one clean range of coast for about 3,000 miles. By a late decision of the Supreme Court of the U. States, the Upper Lakes including Lake Erie, with their connect ing waters, were declared to be seas, com- mercially and legally. Congress, under this decision, is empowered to improve the harbors of the lakes and the connect- ing straits, precisely as it has power to do the same on the seaboard. This will probably lead to a vigorous policy in the maintenance of Federal authority, both in improving the harbors, and making pro- vision for the safety of commerce, and protection of life, as. well as guarding against foreign invasion. The only forti- fication of importance that is garrisoned is Fo7-t Mackinac, guarding the passage through the Straits of Mackinac. The islands of these lakes are numer- ous, particularly in the Straits of Mackinac, and in Georgian Bay retaining the same bold and virgin appearance as the main- land; most of them are fertile and sus- ceptible of high cultivation, although, as yet, but few are inhabited to auv consid- erable extent. The dark green waters of the Upper Lakes, when agitated by a storm, or the motion of a passing steamer, presents a brilliancy peculiar only to these trans- parent waters — they then "assume the ad- mixture of white foam, with a lively green tinge, assuming a crystal-like appearance. In this pure water, the white fish, and other species of the finny tribe, delight to gambol, affording the sportsman and epicurean untold pleasure, which is well described in the following poem : THE WHITE FISH. Henry R. Schoolcraft, in his poem. "The White Fish," says: " All friends to good living by tureen and dish. Concur in exulting this prince of a fish ; So fine in a platter, so tempting a fry, So rich on a gridiron, so s-vveet in a pie ; That even before it the salmon must fall, And that mighty honnt-bauche, of the land, beaver's tail. * * * * 'TJs a morsel alike for the gourmand or faster, While, white as a tablet of pure alabaster f Its beauty or flavor no person can doubt. When seen in the water or tasted without; And all the dispute that opinion ere makes Of this king of lake fishes, this ^ deer of th* lakes,^* Regard not its choiceness to ponder or sop. But the best mode of dressing and serving it up. ♦ * ♦ * Here too, might a fancy to descant inclined. Contemplate the lore that pertains to the kind. And bring up the red man, in fanciful strains. To prove its-creation from feminine brains. "t * A translation of Ad-dik-keem-maig, the In- dian name for this fish, t Vide " Indian Tales and L«gends.* FTSn OF TFTK UPPF.R LAKES, 1» FISH OF THE UPPER LAKES. " The numbers, varieties, and excellent qualit}' of lake fish are worthy of notice. It is believed that no fresh waters known can, in any respect, bear comparison. They are, with some exceptions, of the same kind m all the lakes. Those found in Lake Superior and the straits of St. Mary are of the best quality, owing to the cooler temperature of the water. Their quantities are surprising, and apparently so inexhaustible, as to warrant the belief tliat were a population of millions to in- habit the lake shore, they would furnish an ample supply of this article of food without any sensible diminution. There are several kinds found in Lake Superior, and some of the most delicious quality, that are not found in the lakes below, as the siskowit and muckwaw, which grow to the weight of eight or ten pounds. The salmon and some others are found in Ontario, but not above the Falls of Niag- ara. " The following is a very partial list of a few of the prominent varieties: the white fish, Mackinac and salmon-trout, sturgeon, muscalunje, siskowit, pickerel, pike, perch, herring, white, black, and rock bass, cat, pout, eel-pout, bull-head, roach, sun-fish, dace, sucker, carp, muUet, bill-fish, sword-fish, bull-fish, stone-carrier, sheeps-head, gar, &c. " The lamprey-eel is found in all, but the common eel is found in neither of the lakes, nor in any of their tributaries, except one. The weight to which some of these attain is not exceeded by the fish of any other inland fresh waters, except the Mis- sissippi. * * * * " The fish seem to be more numerous some years than others, and likewise of better quality. The kinds best for pick- ling and export are the white fish, Mack- inac and salmon trout, sturgeon, and pickerel. The fisheries at. which these are oaught are at Mackinac, at several points in each of the four straits, the southeast part of Lake Superior, Thunder Bay, Saginaw Bay, and Fort Gratiot near foot of Lake Huron. The sport of taking the brook trout, which are found in great abundance in the rapids at the Saut Ste Marie, and most all of the streams faUing into the Upper Lakes, affords healthful amusement to hundreds of amateur fish- ermen during the summer and fall months. The modes of taking the different kinds of fish are in seines, dip-nets, and gill-nets, and the trout with hooks. " Those engaged in catching fish in the Straits of Mackinac, are composed of Americans, Irish, French, half breeds, and Indians. Some are employed by cap- italists, others have their own boats and nets. Each one is furnished with a boat, and from fifty to one hundred nets, re- quiring constantly two or three men for each boat, to run the different gangs of nets. The fish caught are principally white fish, with some trout. The demand for exportation increases every year, and although immense quantities are caught every season, still no diminution in their number is perceived. " A fleet of two hundred fish-boats are engaged in and about the Straits, em- bracing, however, all the Beaver group. Each boat will average one barrel of fish per day during the fishing season. H: 4c 4c 4t 4c " Ye, who are fond of sport and fun, who wish for wealth and strength; ye, who love angling; ye, who believe that God has given us a time to pray, a time to dance, &c., &c., go to these fishing- grounds, gain health and strength, and pull out Mackinac trout from 20 to 40 lbs. in weight. One hook and line has, in three to four hours, pulled out enough to fill three to four barrels of fish, without taking the sport in':o consideration. ••yours, W. M.J,' 20 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE MISSISSIPPI BASIN. *' The Valley of the Mississippi, bounded on the one hand by the Rocky Mountains, and on the other by the AUeghanies, em- braces a drainage area of 1,244,000 square miles, which is more than one-half of the entire area of the United States. The Upper Mississippi Valley is composed of three subordinate basins, whose respective dimensions are as follows : Square miles. The Ohio basin 214,000 The Upper Mississippi 169,000 The Missouri 518,000 Making a total of 901,000 Its navigable rivers are as follows : Miles. Missouri, to near the Great Falls 3,150 Missouri, above Great Falls to Three Forks 150 Osajre. to Osceola 200 Kansas 100 Biff Sioux 75 Yellow-stone 800 Upper Mississippi, to St. Paul % 658 St. Anthony, to Sauk Kapids 80 Above Little Falls, to Pokegima Falls 250 Minnesota, to Patterson's liapids 295 St. Croix, to St Croix Falls 60 Illinois, to La Salle 220 Ohio, to Pittsburgh 975 Monongahela,to Geneva(slack-water,4 locks) 91 Muskingum, to Dresden " 8 " 100 Green Kiver to BowlingGreen " 5 " 186 Kentucky, to Brooklyn " 5 " 117 Kanawha, to Gauley Bridge 100 Wabash, to Lafayette 835 Salt, to Shepherdsville 30 Sandy, to Louisa 25 Tennessee, to Muscle Shoals 600 Cumberland, to Burkesville 870 Total navigation 8.967 Note.— Steamboats have ascended the Des Moines to Des Moines City, Iowa River to Iowa City, Cedar River to Cedar' Rapids, and the Maquo- keta to Maquoketa City, but only during tempo- rary floods. "It would thus appear that the internal navigation of the Upper Mississippi Val- ley is about 9,000 miles in extent; but, during the summer months, even through the main channels, it become|,precarious, and at times is practically suspended. "The Mississippi Valley, viewed as a whole, may be regarded as one great plain between two diverging coast ranges, ele- vated from 400 to 800 feet above the sea. St. Paul, the head of the navigation of the Mississippi, is 800 feet above the ocean; Pittsburgh, at the junction of the Monon- gahela and Alleghany, forming the Ohio, 699 feet ; Lake Superior on the north, 600 feet ; but the water-shed on the west, at South Pass, rises to nearly 7,500 feet. "It is traversed by no mountain ranges, but the surface swells into hills and ridges, and is diversified by forest and prairie. Leaving out the sterile portions west of the Missouri, the soil is almost uniformly fertile, easily cultivated, and yields an abundant return. The climate is healthy and invigorating, and altogether the region is the most attractive for immigration of any portion of the earth." By means of a Ship Canal, connectine: with the Illinois River, the waters of the Mississippi will be united with the waters of Lake Michigan — thus forming an un- interrupted navigation for armed vessels of a large class from the Gulf of Mexico to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, forming an inland navigation of about 3,000 miles — running through the sub-tropical and temperate zones, where nature is most lavish of her gifts. PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. The sources of the Mississippi on the 1 and rivers, presesnts a system of watex- east interlock with those of the St. Law- communication of rvearly equal extent and reuco, which, with its associated la-kes ' grandeur. PHYSICAL rilARAfTEn OF THE ST. I.AWRKyCK — DEVELOPMENT. 21 TABLE SHOWrNG THE DIMENSIONS OF THE FIVE GREAT AMERICAN LAKES. Lakes Greatest (Jreatcst Height Area in leiiglh. brenjlh. above sea. nq. miles. Miles. Miles. Feet. Superior 400 170 600 31..500 Michigan 3'iO 85 576 '22.000 Huron 260 160 574 20.400 Krie 240 70 565 9,6()0 Ontario ISO 60 232 6,500 Total 1,460 90,000 " The entire area drained by these lakes is estimated at 335,500 square miles, and their shore lines are nearly 5,000 miles in extent. " These rivers are as diverse in charac- ter as in direction. The Mississippi is the longer, but the St. Lawrence discharges the greater volume of water; the one abounds in difficult rapids, the other in stupendous cataracts; the one is subject to great fluctuations, the other preserves an almost unvarying level ; the waters of the one are turbid, those of the other pos- sess an almost crystal purity; the one affords few lake-like expansions, the other swells into vast inland seas. Both have become the great highways of commerce, enriching the regions through whicn they flow, and supply iiig the inhabitants with the .avic'd j roducts of distant climes." — Foster and Whitney^ s Report on Lake Supe- rior. "The commerce of these lakes, whose annual value reaches $450,000,000 — more than twice the external commerce of the whole country — is carried on by a fleet of 1,643 vessels, of the following classes: — No. Steamers 143 Propellers 254 Barks 74 Brigs 85 Schooners 1,068 Sloops 16 Barges ... 3 Tonnage. Value. 5;3.5'22 $2,190,300 70.25;? 3,573..S(iO 83.203 982.900 24.K31 526.200 227,831 5,95.'i.550 667 12.770 3,719 17,000 Tot.als 1,643 413,026 $13,257,020 The following are the distances of some of the commercial routes, taking Chicago as the initial point : Chicago to Mackinac (direct) 860 miles. " " Fond (lu Lac Superior 900 " " " Georgian Bay 650 " " " Buflalo, N. Y 950 " " " Quebec 1,530 " " " Gulf of St. Lawrence 1,950 " PROGRESS OF DEVELOPMENT. The first colony of English extraction, planted in the territory of the Upper Mis- eissippi, was in 1788 — just seventy-five years ago — at Marietta, within the present limits of Ohio. This was the origin of that spirit of colonization, which, within the lifetime of many living men, has peo- pled this region with nine millions of hu- man beings; has subdued and brought under cultivation, an area greater than that of all the cultivated lands of the Brit- ish Empire; has connected the principal commercial points with a net- work of rail- ways more than eleven thousand miles in extent; and has built up a domestic in- dustry, the value of whose annual product Is in excess of three hundred and fifty millions of dollars. Out of this territory have been carved not less than nine States, which are indissolubly linked together by a similarity of conditions in soil and cli- mate, and by the geographical features of the country. They have already received the appellation of the "Food-producing" States — an appellation Avhich they are destined to retain for all time. The rivers and the lakes, which water this region, offer the most magnificent sys- tem of internal communication to be found on the surface of the earth. No mountain barriers interpose to divide the people in- to hostile clans, or divt'it the great cur- rents of trade in their fiow to the markets of the world. ^Yith a soil sufficiently rich in organic matter for fifty successive crops ; with almost boundless fields of coal, stored 22 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. away for future use ; with vast deposits of the useful ores, and the precious metals, on the rim of the great basin ; and with a climate most favorable to the develop- ment of human energy, it is impossible for the mind, even in its most daring spec- ulations, to assign limits to the growth of the North-west. When all of these ele- ments of wealth, now in a crude state, shall have been fully developed, there will be an exhibition of human power and greatness such as no other people ever at- tained. Comparing the whole superficial con- tents of these States with the portions cul-. tivated, it will be seen that only about 16 per cent, of the surface has been sub- dued; and, if population and cultivation increase in the same ratio in the future as they have in the past, before the lapse of another decade there will be collected an- nually, on the borders of the Great Lakes, more than 200,000,000 bushels of cereals for exportation, giving employment to a fleet of more than 3,000 vessels, and re- quiring avenues of more than twice the capacity of existing ones. A LUNAR TIDAL WAVE In tlie ]Vortli American I^akes. Extract from a Paper read by Lt.-Col. Graham, before the American Association for the Advancement of Science, August, 1860. "Much has been written, at various periods, on the fluctuations in the eleva- tion of the surface waters of the great freshwater lakes of North America. Val- uable and interesting memoirs have ap- peared from time to time in the American Journal of Science and Arts, published monthly at New Haven, Connecticut, within the last thirty years, on this sub- ject, written by the late Brevet Brigadier- General Henry Whiting, of the U. S. Ar- my, when a captain, by Major Lachlan, Charles Whittlesey, Esq., and others. The observations contained in their me- moirs have, however, been directed chiefly to investigations of the extent of the sec- ular and annual variations in elevation of the surfaces of these lakes. " The learned Jesuit fathers of the time of !Marquette, a period near two centuries pgo, and at later periods the Baron de la llontau, Charlevois, Carver, and others, noticed in their writings the changes of elcvotion, and some peculiar fluctuations "which take place on these inland seas. In the speculations indulged in by some of these writers a slight lunar tide is sometimes suspected, then again such an influence on the swelling and receding waters is doubted, and their disturbance is attributed to the varying courses and forces of the winds. "But we have nowhere seen that any systematic course of observation was ever instituted and carried on by these early explorers, or by any of their successors who have mentioned the subject, giving the tidal readings at small enough inter- vals of time apart, and of long enough duration to develop the problem of a diur- nal lunar tidal wave on these lakes. The general idea has undoubtedly been that no such lunar influence was here percep- tible. "In April, 1854, I was stationed at Chicago by the orders of the Govern- ment, and charged with the direction of the harbor improvements on Lake Mich- igan. In the latter part of August of that year, I caused to be erected at the A LUNAR TIDAL WAVE. 23 cast or lalceward extremity of the North hirbor pier, a permanent tide-gauge for th? purpose of making daily observations of the relative heights and fluctuations of the surface of this lake. The position thus chosen for the observations projects into the lake, entirely beyond the mouth of the Chicago River, and altogether out of the reach of any influence from the river current, upon the fluctuations of the tide-gauge. It was the fluctuations of the lake surface alone, that could affect the readings of the tide-gauge. "On the first day of September, 1854, a course of observations was commenced on this tide-gauge, and continued at least once a day, until the 31st day of Decem- ber, inclusive, 1858. During each of the first three winters a portion of the daily observations was lost, owing to the tide- gauge being frozen fast in its box, but they constituted only a small number in proportion to that embraced in the series. During the subsequent winters artificial means were resorted to, to prevent this freezing. "These observations were instituted chiefly for the purpose of ascertaining with accuracy the amount of the annual and also of the secular variation in the elevation of the lake surface, with a view to regulating the heights of break-waters and piers to be erected for the protection of vessels, and for improving the lake harbors." After a series of close observations from 1854 to li58, Lieut.-Colonel Graham ob- serves: — " The difference of elevation of the lake surface, between the periods of lunar low and lunar high-water at the mean spring tides is here shown to be two hundred and fifty -four thousandths (.254) of a foot, and the time of high- water at the full and change of tlie moon is shown to be thirty (30) minutes after the time of the moon's meridian transit. " We, therefore, in accordance with cus tom in like cases, indicate as the establish- tnent for the port of Chicago, h. m. i Foot, 30. "Although this knowledge may be of but small practical advantage to naviga- tors, yet it may serve as a memorandum of a physical phenomenon whose exist- ence has generally heretofore been either denied or doubted. " We think it probable that, if the ef- fect of unfavorable winds and all other extraneous forces which produce irregular oscillations in the elevation of the lake surface could be fully eliminated, a semi- diurnal lunar spring tide would be shown of as much as one-third of a foot for the periods of highest tides. The time of low-water and the relative times of duration of the flood and ebb tides are given only approximately. The extreme rise of the tide being so Httle, the precise time of the change from ebb to flood, and hence the duration of the flow of each, can only be accurately de- termined by numerous observations at short intervals, say three to five minutes of time apart, from about an hour before to an hour after the aetual time of low- water. " In conclusion, we offer the above ob-. servations as solving the problem in ques- tion, and as proving the existence of a semi-diurnal lunar tidal wave on Lake Michigan, and consequently on the other great freshwater lakes of North America, whose co-ordinate of altitude is, at its summit, as much as .15 to .25 (j'q^ to -^^ of a foot, United States' measure." ^4 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. REMARKABLE PHENOMENA. Prof. Mather, who observed the bar- ometer at Fort Wilkins, Copper Harbor, 4T* 30' north lat., during the prevalence of one of these remarkable disturbances which are peculiar to all the Upper Lakes, remarks: — "As a general thing, fluctua- tions in the barometer accompanied the fluctuations in the level of the water, but sometimes the water-level varied rapidly in the harbor, while no such variation occurred in the barometer at the place of observation. The variation in the level of the water may be caused by varied barometric pressure of the air on the water, either at the place of observation, or at some distant point. A local in- creased pressure of the atmosphere at the place of observation, would lower the water-level where there is a wide expanse of water ; or a diminished pressure, under the same circumstances, would cause the water to rise above its usual level." In the summer of 1854, according to the Report of Foster and Whitney, made to Congress in 1850, "an extraordinary retrocession of the waters took place at the Saut Ste Marie. The river here is nearly a mile in width, and the depth of water over the sandstone rapids is about three feet. The phenomena occurred at noon ; the day was calm but cloudy ; tho water retired suddenly, leaving the bed of the river bare, except for the distance of about twenty rods where the channel is deepest, and remained so for the space of an hour. Persons went out and caught fish in the pools formed in the rocky cavi- ties. The return of the waters was sud- den, and presented a sublime spectacle. They came down like an immense surge, roaring and foaming, and those who had incautiously wandered into the river bed, had barely time to escape being over- whelmed." Rising and Falling of the Waters of Lake Michigan. [From the Chicago Trilnme, May 28^ 1861.] One of those singular oscillations in the Lakes, or "Inland Seas," which have been observed occasionally from the time of the exploration of the Jesuit Fathers, was witnessed yesterday in Lake Michi- gan. A variety of signs, such as the mirage of the distant shore, unusual de- pression of the barometer, and a sudden rise of the temperature from a cool, bracing air, to a sultry heat, indicated an unusual commotion in the atmospheric elements. About eleven o'clock a. m., when our at- tention was first called to the phenomena, the waters of the lake had ri^en about tkirty-one inches above the ordinary level, and in the course of half an hour they again receded. Throughout the whole day they continued to ebb' and flow at in- tervals of fifteen or twenty minutes, and the current between the outer and inner breakwater, near the Illinois Central Rail- road House, was so great at times that a row-boat made little or no headway against it. The extreme variation between high and low water was nearly three feet. The wind all day was off shore (from the southwest), the effect of whi^ was to keep down the waters instead of accumu- lating them at this point. Abont ejght o'clock in the evening it veered suddenly to the northwest, and blew a violent gale, accompanied by vivid electrical displays. This morning (Monday) we hear of tele- graphic hnes prostrated, of persons killed by lightning, Ac, while the lake, although agitated, exhibits none of the pulsations of yesterday. COMMERCE OF THK LAKES. Extract from the Annual Report of the Trade and Commerce of Buffalo, " Ix presenting to the public our Annual Review of tlie Trade and Commerce of Buffalo, for the last year it will not be inappropriate to revert to the past to show the rise and progress, the extent and growth of the commerce of these vast 'Inland Seas.' " When in the year 16 Y9, the Chevalier de La Salle obtained permission of the Seneca Indians to build a vessel at Cayuga Creek, six miles above Niagara Falls, which was launched in 1679, and was the first vessel moved with sails upon the waters of Lake Erie, every portion of the great West was covered with its ancient forests. The echoing axe had never rung through their solitudes, and the battle for mastery was yet undecided between the wild beast and bis wild foe the savage hunter. The three guns which were fired when the •Griffin' was launched, were, probably, the firr^t sounds of gunpowder that ever broke upon the stillness of this vast re- gion. The wondering Senecas heard in them the thunders, and saw the lightnings of heaven. The white man was equally an object of admiration and fear. "The arts of navigation, at this period, upon this great inland sea, were confined to the bark canoe and the rude paddle with which it was propelled. Never be- fore had the canvas here opened itself to ^the wind. The voyage of La Salle was an era in the history of this portion of the world. The immense fur trade with the natives at the extremities of these lakes, which was carried on first by the French and afterward by the English, was then almost entirely unknown. It was %ut the year before the sites of the first trading- houses had been selected. La Salle set sail from the foot of Lake Erie, on tlie 7th day of August, 1679, with a crew of thirty men, and arrived at Mackinac on the 28th day of that month. The first cargo of furs was put on board the Grififin, and she was ordered by La Salle to return with a crew of six men to Niagara. But a storm was encountered, and the vessel and cargo, valued at fifty to sixty thousand francs, with all on board, was lost. Thus was made the first great sacrifice of life and property to the commerce of Lake Erie. " Since that period the changes that have been wrought in the country bordering up- on and lying beyond these lakes, surpass the dreams of enchantment. Enterprise and energy have penetrated tliose vast solitudes ; the beasts of prey have slunk back into the deep fastnesses of the woods, the native tribes have vanished away like their own majestic forests, aud the white man following fast upon their rustling footsteps, has subdued the wilderness to the forms of civilization. " The country from which the furs were gathered at the trading posts at Niagara 26 COMMEUCE OF THE LAKES. Detroit, and Mackinac, including a large portion of Ohio, Indianii, Illinois, Michi- gan, and Wisconsin, now contains a pop- ulation of 6,926,874. Since the day when La Salle tirst opened, as it were, to future generations the great higliway upon the waters of Lakes Erie and Huron, the pro- genitors of this mighty multitude have been borne upon its waves by favoring winds ; and innumerable little bands gain- ing the mouth of some fair river, have thence radiated over the wide-spread do- main from which their descendants are now pouring down upon the trusting bosom of the lake, the abundant products of an almost inexhaustible fertility. "Great as has been the change Since the country was first explored, it has al- most wholly taken place since the year 1800. ^'he population of Ohio in that year ■was only 45,365; and that was the only State, with the exception of New York and Pennsylvania, of all those bordering upon the great lakes, whicl) contained any considerable settlements, or in which any enumeration of the people was taken. Even Ohio was not then admitted into the Union ; and the commercial advantage ot Lake Erie were scarcely begun to be developed till twenty-five years afterward. The first vessel bearing the American flag upon Lake Erie was tlie sloop Detroit, of seventy tons, which was purchased of the Nortliwest Fur Company, by the General Government, in 1796. She was, however, soon condemned as unseaworthy, and abandoned. Up to the time of the decla- ration of war in 1812, the whole number of vessels of all descriptions on these lakes, did not exceed twelve, and these were employed either in the fur trade, or in transporting to the West such goods and merchandise as were required for the scattered population that liad fouiid their way there. A few vessels were built dur- ing the war, but, probably, as many or more were destroyed. And during the tliree years of its continuance, as all emi- gration to the West, if any had before ex- isted, must liuve ceased, there cannot be said to have been any commerce on the lakes. "In March, 1791, Col. Thomas Proctor visited the Senecas of Buftalo Creek, and from him the first authentic notice of Buf falo is given. He mentions a storehouse kept by an Indian trader named Winne, at Lake Erie. " In June, 1795, a French nobleman, named La Rochefoucauld Liancourt, visit- ed Buffalo and the neighboring Indian vil- lages. At this place. there were then but few houses. He mentions an Inn where he was obliged to sleep on the floor in his clothes. "In August, 1795, Judge Porter, ac- companied by Judah Colt, went to Presque Isle, now Erie, through Buffalo. Judge Porter makes mention ' that one Johnson, the British Indian interpreter, Winne, the trader, and Middaugh, a Dutchman, with his family, lived at Buffalo.' The only road between Buffalo and Avon, in the year 1797, was an Indian trail, and the only house on this trail was one, about one and one-half miles east of the present village of Le Roy, occupied by a Mr. Wilder, As late as 1812 the roads were next to impassable, and to obtain supplies from Albany, trade was carried on by a circuitous route, 'through the Niagara river to Schlosser, thence by portage to Lewiston, thence by water to Oswego and up the Oswego River, through the Oneida Lake and Wood Creek, and across a short portage to tlie Mohawk River, thence by that river and around tlie portage of Little Falls to Schenectady — and thence over the arid pine plains to Albany.' Tlie late Judge Townsend and George Coit. Esq., came to Buffalo as traders, in 1811 by this route, bringing about twenty tons of mer- chandise from Albany at a cost of fifty dollars a ton. At this time there were less than one hundred dwellings here, and the population did not exceed five hun- EARLY IIISTOUT. 27 dred- The mouth of Buffalo Creek was tlion obstructed by a sand-b:ir, frequently preveatiug the entrance of small ve.-wels, ap.d even frail Indian bark canoes were frequently shut oat, and footmen walked across its mouth on dry land. Vessels then received and discharged their cargoes at Bird Island wharf, near Black Rock. To remedy the obstructions in the creek by the sand-bar at its outlet into the lake, it was proposed, in the year 1811, to run a pier into the lake, but notliing- of moment was done till the spring of 1820, when a subscription was raised, by the then vil- lagers of Buffalo, amounting to $1,361. The late Hon. Samuel Wilkson was the originator and projector of this movement, and temporary improvements were made wliich carried away the obstructing sand- bar. In 1822 the village in its corporate capacity paid John T. Lacy for building a raud-scow for working in the harbor $534. The first corporate notice of the harbor was made hi the latter year. Buffalo was incorporated as a village in April, 1813, and as a city on 20th of April, 1832. "Melish says, 'the population by the last census was 365, and it was computed in 1811 at 500, and is rapidly increasing.' In 1825 the population was 2,412; in 1830, 8,668; in 1835, 15,661; in 1840, 18,213; in 1845, 29,973; in 1850, 42,261* in 1860, 81,129; and at the end of the year 1862 the population is estimated at over 100,000. In 1817 the taxable prop- erty of the village was $134,400, and on this valuation an assessment of $400 was made daring that y^a,r. The valuation of the real and personal property of the city in 1862 is $30,911,014. " The population and valuation of prop- erty, the harbor and harbor improve- ments, the manufactures and commerce, the canal, railway, and water connections by lake with other portions of the country, the population and productions of the West and Northwest, the large lake, canal, the present time, when compared witli what tliey were fifty years ago, 'are mar- vellous in our eye-^,' and if somn fir-soeing miud, a lialf century since, had pro;)hesied results of such vast magnitude, he would have been dono;uinated an idle dreamer, and a fit subject for a lunatic asylum. "The States and Territories bordering on, and tributarj- to the great lake basin that had fifty years ago but a few thousand population, liave now nearly seven millions, which will soon be augmented by the natural increase and by immigration to thirty millions, and Buffalo with its 500 inhabitants in 1811, 81,000 in 1860, wiU have a population of three or four hun- dred thousand before the present century shall have passed away. Within the lim- its of these lake States, where, less than forty years ago, there were neither canals nor railways, there are now 14,484 miles of railway, and 3,345 miles of navigable canals, of which latter about 760 miles are slack-water navigation. "The whole West and Northwest is now traversed by a net-work of railways, with important canal connections between the different States, where there was a sparsely populated, almost interminable forest or uninhabited prairie. In this march of improvement, making more in- timate the social and commercial relations of these widely separated sections of the country, the Empire State has nobly led the way. The far-seeing mind of her honored son, Governor Clinton, projected the Erie Canal which was completed in 1825, uniting the waters of the Hudson with the lakes. A brighter day then dawned upon the West, the population was rapidly augmented, which was soon succeeded by largely increased agricultu- ral productions that gave new life to com- merce. The era of railways was com- menced in about the year 1830. " With these largely increased rail fa- cilities, and the capacity of the New York and railway facilities for transportation at I canals nearly quadrupled, the augmenting 2.9 COMMERCE OF TFTE LAKES. facilities do not keep pace with the rapid- ly augmenting population and largely in- creased production. Improved channels of communication, both by rail and water, must be made, to enable the producer at tlie West to get his products more elieap- ly to market. A country vast in extent, bordering upon the upper Mississippi, the Ohio, Cumberland, Tennessee, Arkansas, Red, and Missouri rivers and their tribu- taries, and the Red river of the North, traversed by more than twenty thousand miles of navigable waters, Avill soon be densely peopled; new States to the west of those already admitted will soon knock for admission into the Union; the supera- bundant products of an almost inexhaust- ible fertility will be pouring over the lakes and railways, and through the rivers and canals, imparting activity to trade, giving life, strength and vital energy to the large- ly augmenting commerce of the West. As the star of empire westward wends its way, widening the distance from the great sea-board marts of trade, the prospective wants and increased productions of scores of millions of people will from necessity create cheaper and more expeditious facil- ities for the transportation of their surplus products to market. There is no country on the face of tlie globe that has so many natural advantages for a large and extend- ed internal trade as the great West and Northwest. "The great basin east of the Rocky Mountains is drained by the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers and their tributaries, and their waters find an outlet in the Gulf of Mexico. The great lakes, having an area equal to one twenty-fifth part of the Atlantic Ocean, are drained by the river St. Lawrence, and find an outlet in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The construc- tion of a few miles of canal makes a nav- igable connection from the ocean to the great chain of lakes. These natural ad- vantages have been improved to some ex- tent in the United States by the construc- tion of a canal through the State of New York, that now has a prism forty-five feet at tlie bottom and seventy feet at the top, with seven feet of water, with locks 18 feet 6 inches wide by 100 feet long. There is also a canal one hundred miles long connecting the Illinois river with lake Michigan at Chicago, and slack water navigation connecting Green Bay, Wiscon- sin, with the Mississippi river. By the construction of a ship canal about three- fourths of a mile in length, from Big Stone Lake to Lake Traver in Minnesota, steamboats from St. Paul could navigate both the Minnesota river and the Red river of the North to Lake Winnepeg. a distance of seven hundred miles. The country traversed by these rivers is sur- passingly fertile and capable of sustaining a dense population. Lake Winnepeg is larger than Lake Ontario, and receives the Sas-katch-e-wan river from tlie West. The Sas-katch-e-wan river is navigable to a point (Edmonton House) near the Rocky Mountains, seven hundred miles west of Lake Winnepeg, and only 150 miles east of the celebrated gold diggings on Frazer rivfer in British Columbia. The digging of that one mile of canal, would, there- fore, enable a steamboat at New Orleans to pass into Lake Winnepeg and from thence to Edmonton House, some 5,000 miles. A move has already been made for constructing this short canal. By en- larging the Illinois and Michigan canal and improving the navigation of the Illi- nois river, and improving and completing the slack water navigation of the Fox river in Wisconsin, connecting Green Bay with the Mississippi river, and stiU fur- ther enlarging the main trunk of the New York canals, steamers could be passed from New York or the Gulf of St. Law- rence, either through the canals of New York or Canada into the great lakes, and from thence to the head waters of the Sas-katch-e-wan, the Missouri, the Yellow Stone rivers, being some 5,000 to 6,000 FIRST STEAMBOAT ON LAKE ERTE. 29 miles. The coreal product of the States bordering on and tributary to the lakes was 2(57,295.877 bushels in 1840; 434,- 8G2,GG1 bushels in 1850, against 679,031,- 559 busliels in 1860f and the population of tliese States has kept pace witli their oercul products, being 6,259,345 in 1840; 9.178,003 in 1850, against 13,355,093 in 1860, an increase of nearly fifty per cent, in population and cereal products in each decade. If the same rate per cent, of in- crease in population and cereal products shall be continued, these States in 1870 will have a population of 20.032,639, with a cereal product of 1,008,557,338 bushels; in 1880, a population of 30,048,958. with a cereal product of 1,512,821,000 bushels ; in 1890, a population of 55,073,437, with a cereal product of 2,269,231,510 bushels, and in 1900 a population of 67,610,155, with a cereal product of 3,403,847,265. "The grain trade of Buflfalo for a series of years, given in this report, has already reached upwards of 72,000,000 bushels for the year 1862. If a crop of 680,000,000 of bushels of cereal products, gives Buf- falo 72,000,000 of bushels of that crop; in the year 1900, with a crop of 3,403,- 847,265 bushels of cereal products, the grain trade of Bufifalo will be upward of 360,000,000 of bushels. The calculations of the forty years of the future are based on the actual results of the last thirty years. The year 1870 will give to Buffalo a grain trade of upwards of 107,000,000 of bushels, and if there shall bo a propor- tionate increase in the grain trade of Oswugo, the present capacity of tlie New York canals will be entirely inadequate to pass through them this large amount of grain in addition to the large increase in tlie tonnage of other commodities, say- ing nothing of the capacity that will be required for the augmented business in 1880, 1890, and 1900." The First Steamboat on L.ake Eric. The Detroit Tribune furnishes some in- teresting extracts on this subject, taken from tlie files of the Detroit Gazetlf^, of 1818. We select the following descrip- tion of the reception of this monster of the great deep by the " Wolverines'' of that day. "August 26, 1818 :— Yesterday, be- tween the hours of 10 and 11 a. m., the elegant steamboat Walk-in-the- Water, Capt. J. Fish, arrived. — As she passed the pub- lic wharf, and that owned by Mr. J. S. Roby. she was cheered by hundreds of the inhabitants, who had collected to wit- ness this (in these waters) truly novel and grand spectacle. She came to at Wing's wharf. She left Buffalo at half-past 1 o'clock on the 23d, and arrived off Dun- kirk at 35 minutes past 6 on the same day. On the next morning she arrived at Erie, Capt. Fish having reduced her steam during the night, in order not to pass that place, where she took in a sup- ply of wood. At half-past 7 p. m. she left Erie, and came to at Clevekind at 11 o'clock. On Friday, at 20 minutes past 6 o'clock, p. M., sailed and arrived off Sandu^-ky Bay at 1 o'clock on Wednesday ; lay at anchor during the night, and then pro- ceeded to Venice to wood ; left Yeuice at 3 p. M., and arrived at the mouth of the Detroit River, where she anchored during the night— the whole time employed in sailing, in this first voyage from Buffalo to thi.s, being about 44 hours and 10 min- utes ; the wind ahead during nearly the whole passage. Not the slightest accident happened during the voyage, and all our machinery worked admirabh\ " Nothing could exceed the surpri.se of the sons of the forest on seeing the Walk- in-the- Water moving majestically and rap- idly against a strong current, without the assistance of sails or oars. They lined the banks near Maiden, and expressed 30 COMMKRCE OF THE LAKES. their aptonishinent by repeated shouts of ' Tai-ynh niche.' A report had been cir- culated amoug thciu, that a ' big canoe' would soon come from the noisy waters, which, by order of the great father of the Cho-}nu-ko-nv'7iSy would be drawn through the lakes and rivers by sturgeon! Of the truth of the report they are now per- fectly satisfied. The cabins of this boat are fitted up in a neat, convenient, and elegant style ; and the manner in which she is found, does honor to the proprie- tors and to her commander. A passage between this place and Buffalo is now not merely tolerable, but truly pleasant. To- day she will make a trip to Lake St. Clair, with a large party of ladies and gentle- men. She will leave for Buffalo to-mor- row, and may be expected to visit U8 again next week." TABLE, Exhibiting tub Tonnagk o/ike several Lake Districts in the United States, on the SOth June, 1861 Districts. State. Burlington Vermont . Champlain New York Osweg.iichie Cape Vincent Sic:vet.'s Harjor. . . . Oswego ... Genesee Niaojara Buffalo Dunkirk Presque Lsle (Erie) . . Cuyahoga (Cleveland) Sandusky " .... Toledo " Detroit Michigan. Michilimackinac .... '* Chicago Illinois . . . Milwaukee \\ isconsin Pennsylvania Ohio Lakes, &c. Champlain. . . . St. Lawrence River. Ontario Erie Detroit River Huron Michigan .... Minnesota Superior Total Tonnage . Total Ton n ace. 7,774 19 1,791 7,3:^2 5,228 71 53 70 888 55 55,552 2,981 41 84 774 48 108,224 00 4,274 7,369 82,518 26 09 87 16.850 24 5,468 66,887 4,747 85,743 70 89 59 66 27,048 19 600,456 90 OAJfADIAN INLAND AND OCICAN NAVIGATION. 31 LAKE COMMEECE. Commerce of Buffalo— 1S64. The following statement shows the ar- rivals and clearances at and from Buflalo of American and Foreign vessels to and from Canadian ports; also the arrivals and clearances of American vessels to ■from American ports, the tonnage of nme, and tlie number of men com- jg the crews arriving and departing ; . .3 comparative statement of the same for a series of years : riBST QUARTER. No. Vessels. Tonnoite. CJoastinjj vessels entered ... 1 • 344 American vessels entered.. 805 409,165 Foreign vessels entered Coasting vessels cleared American vessels cleared . . 865 409,165 Foreign vessels cleared Crews. 9 4,015 4,01.5 Totals 671 SECOND Qt'Ar.TER. No. Vessels. Coasting vessels entered . . . 1,560 American vessels entered. Foreign vessels entered .. Coasting vessels cleared.. American vess>ls cleared. Foreign vessels cleared . . . 818,674 8,089 Tonnnpe. Crews. 594,473 18,075 893.497 4.1 58 19.729 1.046 659,197 19.66S 409.'2S6 4.536 6.474 LOSS Totals 4,523 2,082,655 48,571 THIRD QITARTER. No. Vessels. Coasting vo5S< Is entered ..1,744 American vessels entered. . 465 Foreign vessels entered . .. 845 Coasting vessels cleared .. .1,890 American vessels cleared. . 496 Foreign vessels cleared 842 Tonnage. Crews. 6S1.791 21.347 388,741 4.250 26,261 1,794 693.485 21,503 406,694 4,223 31,571 1,593 FOCRTH QtTARTER, No. Vessels. TonBage. Crew*. Coasting vessels entered . . . 1,064 431.477 American vessels entered . 461 Foreisn vessels entered . . . 864 Coasting vessels cleared . . . 943 American vessels cleared. . 467 Foreign vessels cleared . . . 265 449.855 26,434 382.609 444,739 26.362 13.011 4679 1.389 11,727 4.660 1.3S5 Totals 3,569 1,761,476 86,851 8UM.MART FOR THE TEAR 1864. No. Tonnage. Crewi. American vessels entered.. 1,663 1,641.258 17,102 Foreign vessels entered . . 926 72.424 4,229 Coasting vessels entered . .4,369 1,708.085 52.442 Total entered for the year. .6,958 8,421,767 73,773 No. Tonnage. Crews. American vessels cleared. .1,810 1,669.883 17,424 Foreisn vessels cleared . . . hl4 64,407 4066 Coasting vessels cleared. . .4.523 1,735.291 52.893 Total cleared for the year.. 7,147 8,469,581 74,388 Totals 5,2S2 2,228,543 54,710 Grand Total 1864.. . ...14.105 6.891.348 148.161 .k 1863... ...15.376 6.757.903 157.415 U i. 1862... . . . 16.390 6.tk>9,191 166.1:33 It I. 1861... ...13,866 5 963.696 144,173 k. u 1860... ...11.527 4.710.175 120,4itT .i t. 1859... ...10,521 5.592,626 118,109 " '• 1858... ... 8.31 S 3.329,246 86,887 " 14 1857... . .. 7.581 3.226. G06 132.1 S3 u u 1856... ... 8,128 3,(118.589 112.051 tk u 1865... ... 9.211 3.360.23:3 111.575 Ik kk 1854... ... 8.912 8.990.284 120.833 " 44 1863... ... 8,298 3,252,978 128,112 ki 44 1862... ... 9,441 8,v;92,247 127,491 Canadian Inland and Ocean NaTig:ation. The following, from a pamphlet pub- j Canadian Provinces: "Montreal, at the lished in Montreal, pictures in glowing | head of sea navigation proper, is the port colors the advantage.s to be derived from | for the groat chain of river, lake, and the great inland, water hlgliwu^''s of the ijanal navigation, which citendd west- 32 COMMERCE or THE LAKES. ward to Fond du Lac, Lake Superior, and Chicago, on Lake Michigan, a distance of about fifteen hundred miles, embracing the largest extent of inland water com- munication in the world." For extent of lake and rtver navigation, see page 16. Canadian Canals. Lenfifth in Depth Lockage, No. miles. in feet. Lift, feet. Locks. Lachine 8^ 10 44i 5 Eeauharnois Hi 10 82* 9 Cornwall Hi 10 48 7 i'arrand's Point "1 10 4 1 Rapid Plat l q. 10 IH 2 Point Iroquois f * * ^* 10 6 1 Gallop's I 10 8 2 Welland 23 10 330 27 Totals 69 643i 54 Proposed Ottawa Ship Canal. The saving in the distance between Montreal and Chicago, by this direct route, over the present circuitous line through the Lower Lakes and the St. Lawrence, is 842 1- miles. It has 64 locks, with a total hfc of 665 i feet. The v/ork, in quality at least equal to the St. Law- rence Canals, is estimated to cost $12,- 057,680, exclusive of the Lachine Canal, which is already completed. It is dis- tributed in the following divisions, natural and artificial : Miles of Miles of River and Lalce. Canal. Lachine 8.50 Lake St. Louis 13.31 St. Anne's 1 .19 Lake of Two Mountains 24.70 Carillon to Grenville 7.73 5.00 Green Shoals .10 Ottawa liiver 55.97 Chaudi^re des Chenes 3.75 2.61 De» Chenes Lake 26.69 Chats 1.70 .60 Chats' Lake 19.28 Snow's to Blaek Falls 18.32 1.05 lUver and Lake Coulonce 24 93 Chajx-au and L'Islet. . . .^ 4.S6 . .14 Deep River a3.68 Juaclilm'a to Mattawan 61 . 74 £.26 River Mattawan Summit Level and Cut.. . French River Miles of Miles of River and Lake. Canal. ... 16.22 1.08 ... 51.15 6.97 .... 47.62 .82 Total ....401.44 29.32 This extensive line of interior waters, with short land portages, formed for many years tlie principal route for the vessels and voyageurs of the Hudson Bay Com- pany and the Northwest Company. New York Canals. Length, Size, Locks, etc. T „«»»», No. Size ^«"eth. Locks. ' Locks. Erie (enlarged) 350i 71 110x18 Genesee Valley and Extension 124} 112 90.xl5 Cayutta and Seneca .. . 24^ 11 110x18 Crooked Lake 8 27 90x15 Cheman2& Feeder... 39 49 90x15 Chenango 97 116 110x18 Oswego 38 18 90x15 Black River & Feeder. 50 109 Black River Imp't 42^ Champlain CCJ 33 110x18 Glens Falls Feeder ... 7 .... 100x15 Oneida Lake 7 7 90x15 Oneida River Imp't... 20 2 120x30i Oneida Lake 23 Lift of Locks. 569 1,4S9 761 277 155 1,015 155 1,0S2 227 60 16i The Erie and Champlain Canals, when first completed in 1825, had a prism 28 feet wide at the bottom, and 40 feet wide at the surface of the water, which was four feet in depth. The chambers of the locks were 90 feet long by 15 feet wide, admitting boats 75 feet long, carrying about 45 to 50 tons. The size of the present locks is given in the foregoing^ table. The boats now navigating the Erie and Oswego Canals have a burden of about 225 to 250 tons in six feet draught of water. The Erie Enlarged Canal has VI locks, with a total lift of 569 feet, and the Oswe- go Canal has 18 I6ck8, with a total lift of 155 feot. BRE A USTUFFS — FISHERIES — FISH. 33 The grain trade of the great West and Northwest is yet in its infancy. Every year the population is augmented by emi- gration from the Eastern and Middle States as well as from Europe. The strong arms of freemen are bringuig un- der cultivation the broad prairies upon wnich the industrious and enterprising settlers scatter broad-cast the seed, to be returned to them again in fields of waving grain, from which will be reaped a boun- tiful harvest. Imports of Breadstuff's into Great Britain. The following from the London Times will show the imports of breadstuffs into Great Britain for the years 1860, 1861, and 1862, ending December 31st in each year, viz.; 1860. 1861. 1862. Wheat, Flour, Meal, cwt 5,139,188 6,331,375 *?, 314,317 Wheat, qrs. of 8 bush 5,903,175 6,966,844 9,542,362 Corn, " " 1,885,594 3,106,595 2,7^1,265 Oats, " " 2,308,380 1,875,574 1,622,919 Barley, " " 2,122,016 1,407,501 1,863,683 Eye, " " 96,898 54,142 1,694 Peas, " " 317,548 402,933 230,132 Buckwheat, " " 714 5,143 Beans, " " 440,860 564,477 479,758 Total Gram, qrs. 8 bush ..... . 13,044,471 14,377,780 16,496,956 The Times says: "The accounts have now been made up of the quantities of grain and flour imported into Great Bri- tain on the last year and preceding years since the introduction of free trade, and the result is remarkable, showing an ex- traordinary increase during the past year. Taking wheat and flour alone, we find that the lowest year was 1835, when the quantity of wheat imported into Great Britain was only 46,530 quarters, and of flour 84,684 cwt., while in 1862, no less than 9,541,362 quarters of wheat, and 7,314,317 cwt. of flour were imported into the various ports of the country." The increase in 1862 over 1861 is 982,- 942 cwt. of flour, and 2,575,518 quarters of wheat. There is a decrease on Indian corn of 355,330 quarters. FISHERIES-FISH. In the Sandusky bay, in the Maumee bay and Maumee river, in the Monroe bay, in the Detroit river, in the St. Clair river and rapids, in Lake Huron, from Huron to Point aux Barques, in the Au Sable river, in Thunder bay above Au Sable river, including Sugar Island, in Saginaw bay and river, in Tawas bay, between Thunder bay and Mackinac, in- cluding Hammond's bay, in and about Mackinac at Beaver Island and its sur- roundings, between the De Tour and the Sault, along the Eastern shore of Lake Michigan, in Green bay, in Wisconsin and Michigan, at Presque Isle, Pa., in Lake Superior's numerous bays and in- lets, are found the principal fishing 34 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. grounds of the lakes; and the annual catch ranges from 60 to 100 thousand barrels, valued at four to six hundred thousand dollars. The lake fisheries are only second to the cod fisheries off the Atlantic coast, from Cape Cod Bay to Cape Breton, and are a source of very considerable wealth. The stock here will, probably, not ex- ceed twenty-five hundred packages : Lake Imports op Fish. Year*. Bbls. Years. Bblg. 1854 11,752 1859 13,391 1855 7,241 1860 26,655 1856 6,250 1861 8,313 1857 5,290 1862 8,647 1858 4,203 LUMBER AND STAVES. The Luml^er and Stave trade constitutes a very large portion of the freight carried on the lakes and canals, and is only second to grain. The larger portion of the East- ward movement usually takes place in mid- summer, when low rates of transporta- tion rule. The principal sources of sup- ply are the States of Ohio, Indiana, Mich- igan, Canada West, and Pennsylvania, of which more than fifty per cent, is from Michigan alone. In the northern penin- sula of that State, in and around Saginaw, at Port Huron, on St. Clair river, are the largest and finest lumber districts in the West and Northwest. The supply of staves is derived from Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin, and Canada West, of which more than eighty per cent, of the receipts at Buffalo come from the States first mentioned. The following will sliow the imports at Buffalo of staves and lumber from 1846 to 1862, inclusive, and the canal exports ^om 1849 to 1862, inclusive: Lake Imports. Years. Stares, No. 1S46 10.762,500 JS47 8.800,000 1548 8.091.000 1S49 14,183.602 1550 18,652,890 1S51 10,696,006 IS.yi 12.998,614 1S53 9,215,240 1S54 15,404,554 1855 16,421,568 1856 18,556,039 1857 23,024,213 1858 15,119.019 1859 23,277.028 1860 22.307,8:39 1861 25,228,978 1862 80,410,252 Lamber, feeH 84.536,000 18,313.000 21,425,000 83,935,769 53,076,000 6S,Ott6,000 72,337,225 89,294,01)0 67,407,008 72,026,651 60,584,812 68,283,319 67,059,173 111,072,446 111,094,496 58.082,718 125,289,971 COPPER-LAKE SUPERIOR. The Copper Mines of Lake Superior were first brought into public notice in 1845, when speculation was rife in all that spur of the Porcupine Mountains on the south shore of Superior, extending far into the lake, having for its base a line drawn across L'Anse Bay to Ontonagon. This was then the Northern El Dorado. Id this year operations were commenced at the Minnesota mine, which is about fifteen miles back of Ontonagon, The first large mass of native copper, weighing about seven tons, was found in a pit dug by the original lords of the soil. It is now only fourteen years since this mine was opened. At that time the rapids in the Sault St. Marie prevented the pas- sage of vessels from the lower lakes, and the adventurers that sought out this new El Dorado, had many obstacles to over- come. The country was then covered by a vast wilderness, without inhabitants, ex- cepting a few Indians. All supplies were brought from the lower lakes, and then liad to be passed over the Portage at St. Mary, and thence carried in frail vessels coasting to the westward, hundreds of miles to the cop- per regions, and then carriod on the buck COPPER LAKE SUPERIOR. 35 of man and beast to the supposed places of the copper deposit. Every stroke of the pick was made at a cost ten-fold more than in populated districts, every disaster delayed operations for weeks and even months. The opening of the St. Mary Canal, in 1856, has produced a wondrous change in ^ all this wilderness region. The only set- tlements on the south shore of the lake, at the present time, are Marquette, Port- age Lake, Ontonagon, Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, and the ad- jacent mines — all else is a vast wilderness, without sign of human habitation. The Copper region is divided into the three districts of Ontonagon, Keweenaw Point, and Portage Lake. Since 1845, 120 Copper Mining Companies have been or- ganized under the General Law of Michi- gan ; more than six millions of dollars have been expended in explorations and mining improvements. The Minnesota and Cliff mines have declared and paid over two millions of dollars in dividends since the organization and working of these companies. Until 1860 all the Copper of the Lake Superior mines was smelted at Detroit, Cleveland, and Boston — since which time a Boston company have erected smelting works at Portage, Lake Superior, and new smelting works have been erected at Ontonagon. There is an annual product of Copper of about 2,500 to 5,000 tons at the Wel- lington mines, Lake Huron, which are worked by a Canadian company. Product op the Copper Districts — 1864. The total copper product of Lake Supe- rior in 1864, as per tables pubUshed in the Mining Gazette and Miner ^ is 8,561^ tons, producing about 6,850 tons of ingot copper, worth $6,850,000; and from each district as follows; Tons. Lb«. Keweenaw District 2,54S 809 shipped. Portage Lake " 4,292 1,691 produced. Oatouagon " 1,722 5U0 shipped. Total 8,561 1,000 This amount would have been from 1,500 to 2,000 tons larger had it not been for the great falling off in the products of Minnesota — the scarcity of labor in some of the districts, and its employment largely in opening new mines. Instead of the whole amount of copper thus produced having been the yield of from 10 to 15 mines, as was the case a few years ago — it is the product of 50; of which 18 are in tlie Keweenaw District ; 13 in the Portage Lake — which produced nearly one-half of the whole amount — and 19 in the Ontonagon, a fact that augurs grand results for the future. The mines are as follows : KEWEENAW DISTRICT. FROM EAGLE HABBOB. Tons. Lbs, Central 609 314 CopperFalls 246 315 Pennsylvania 136 151^2 Amygdaloid 83 175 Delaware 42 019 Phoenix 8 500 Petherick 5 1,003 Madison — 259 Total 1,130 1,742 FKOM EAGLE KIVEE. Tons. Lbs. CliffMine 1,133 1,898 Phoenix Mine 225 442 Bay State 86 907 Garden City 11 303 St. Clair 5 093 Manhattan 2 1,129 J. Pooley (tribute from Eagle Paver) 1,803 Arnold 986 Total 1,415 1,066 PORTAGE LAKE DISTRICT. Tons. Lbs. Quincy Mine 1,485 1,362 Pewabic Mine 932 791 Franklin Mine 781 880 Isle Royale Mine 863 1,676 36 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. Tons. Lba. Grand Portage Mine 816 196 Huron Mine 810 1,622 Hancock Mine 60 182 Mesnurd Mine 23 190 Sheldon-Columbian Mine 11 023 Arcadian M ine 5 680 Albany and Beaton Mine 3 040 Douglass Mine 2 1,459 St. Mary's Mine 2 590 Total 4,292 1,691 ONTONAGON DISTEICT. Tons. Lba. National 525 1.000 Minnesota Mine 437 1.000 Evergreen Bluff 224 1,500 Rockland 197 829 Knowlton 100 1,461 Bohemian 47 500 Superior 39 777 Carp Lake 36 Oisima 26 1,763 Flint Steel River 19 1,000 Caledonia 16 Norwich 12 1,354 Rid^e 12 340 Hilton 7 500 Mass 7 270 Aztrc, estimited 5 Winona, estimated 1 Lake Superior 1 1,261 AdveiJture 1 745. Total for the season 1,722 500 The ^tna and Empire Mines have also shipped a small amouut from Copper Har- bor — a few tons. In all the Districts Copper Mining has been placed upon a firmer basis than heretofore existed, in the development of new and rich lodes, and the large accu- mulation of machinery and engines for still greater developments — as at the .^tna, Empire, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Amygdaloid, and Bay State Mines, in the Keweenaw District; in the very rich openings upon the North Isle Royal lode, at the Douglass, Arcadian, and Edwards Mines, in the discovery and partial open- ing of the South Pewabic lode, and in the continued richness of the Albany and Boston conglomerate, in the Portage Lake District ; in the discovery and opening of the Winona lode — reported to be among the largest anJ richest ever opened upon the lake, with new and valuable develop- ments at the many other mines in the Ontonagon District; with the entry and partial exploration of the 70,000 acres of copper-bearing lands upon Isle Royale — by some of the leading capitaUsts, as well as oldest and most successful copper men in New York City, who have organized upon it a company, known as the North American Mineral Land Co., that will at once prosecute mining vigorously and largely, — the explorations of the past summer having revealed the fact more fully than before known, that it abounds with very rich copper-bearing lodes, and especially upon the north side of the isl- and, where numerous fissure veins exist, carrying ollen heavy mass copper, and upon many of which are very extensive " ancient diggings." The following will show the shipments of Copper from the several Districts of Lake Superior, from 1845 to 1864, inclu- sive, viz. : AOGBE6ATB SHIPMENTS OF COPPER FROM LAKE SUPERIOR. Tons, Lbs. Valne. 1845 1,3 DO $ 290 1:S46 ... 29 .. 2,619 ]&47 ... 239 .. . . 107.550 1S43 ... 516 .. 206.400 1S49 ... 750 . . . . 801.200 1850 ... 640 .. . . 266.000 1851 ... 872 .. . . 348,800 1852 ... 887 .. . . 300,450 ]S5;3 .. 1,452 .. . . 508.200 1854 ... 2,300 .. . . 805.000 1855 , . . .3.196 .. .. 1,437,000 1856 . . . 5,726 .. .. 2,400,100 1857 ... 5,759 .. .. 2,015,650 1858 ... 5,896 .. .. 1,610.000 1859 ... 6.041 .. .. 1,1132.000 1860 ... 8,614 .. .. 2,520,000 1861 ... . ... 10.337 .. .. 3,180,000 1S62 ... 11,790 .. .. 4.788.000 1863 . . . 10,000 .. .. 5,500,000 1864 ... .. 8,561 1,0 00 6,318,550 IRON ORE AND IRON. 31 lEOK OKE. The connecting of the waters of Lake Superior with the waters of Lake Huron, by the construction of a ship canal three- ifourths of a mile in length, around the ■ rapids in the Sault St. Maiy River, with prism and locks of sufficient capacity for passing the largest class of vessels navi- gating the lakes, completed very soon af- ter the discovery and working of the iron mines, has opened an already extensive commerce in iron ore, and pig-iron manu- factured near the mines, which are four- teen to eighteen miles from Marquette. These mines are about seven hundred feet above the level of the lake, and are con- nected with Marquette by a railroad. To show the rise and progression of this trade, we give below an interesting statement from the Marquette Journal of a late date : THE IRON PRODUCT OP LAKE SUPERIOR — SHIPMENTS OF IRON ORE. Jackson Cleveland Lake Sup'r Total Tear. Iroa Co. Iron Co. Iron Co, Gross Tons. 1855 1,447 .... 1,447 1856.... 4,497 7,100 .... 11,597 1857.... 13,912 12,272 .... 26,184 la'iS.... 11,104 19,931 .... 31,035 1859.... 10,662 80,344 24,663 65.679 I860.... 41,286 42,696 83,016 116,998 1861.... 12.919 7.311 25.200 45.430 1S62.... 42.767 85,244 37,710 115,721 1863 ... 60.793 48.576 74.057 183.426 1864.... 69,089 54,148 93,929 236,166 Total amount shipped from 1855 to 1864. .833,683 Pittsburgh and Lake Angeline, 1864, 19,000 Grand total for ten years 852,683 Total amount of pig iron shipped fk-om Mar- quette, from 1858 to 1864 42,050 tons. RECAPITULATION. Pate. '^'*"* ^^"' """""^ ^^' '''°'*' gross. gross. Value. 1855 1,447 .... $14,470 1856 11.597 .... 92,776 1857 26,184 .... 209,472 1858 31,035 1,627 249,269 1859 65,679 7,258 575,521 1860 116,998 5,660 736,490 1861 45,430 7,970 410,460 1862 115,721 8,590 984,976 1863 183,426 8.000 1,013.604 1864 236,166 12,951 1,957,81)0 It will be seen from this statement that the shipments of iron ore in 1864 were 236,166 tons, against 1,447 tons in 1855 ; and 12,951 tons of pig iron in 1864, against 1,627 tons in 1858. Marquette is the only point on Lake Superior where iron mines have been opened, although there are iron deposits in the mountains back of L'Anse. About eighteen miles from Marquette are the Iron mountains named the Lake Superior, the Jackson, the Collins, and the Cleve- land ; farther back, in the St. Clair Moun- tain, now the property of tho Washington Iron Company, is a highly magnetic ore. The mines now worked are tiie Jackson, Cleveland, Lake Superior, Iron Mountain, Pittsburgh and Lake Angeline, and Wash- ington, but these alone contain enough iron to supply the trade for many genera- tions. Still farther back from the lake rise mountains to eight hundred feet high, covering many hundreds of acres, which, it is believed from explorations already made, are solid iron ore. TJiere are now in operation at Marquette six iron mining companies, and six blast furnaces, for making charcoal pig-iron. The yield of these iron ores is 66f per cent., and of the best known to the com- merce of the world ; and smelts with less than half of the fuel heretofore required 38 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. by other ores of the "West, thus doubling the product of a furnace without any in- crease for cost of fuel or labor — advan- tages that insure, at no remote period, a demand and annual production of millions of tons, and inevitably calculated to speedily revolutionize the whole iron trade of the West. The quality of the Lake Superior iron is conceded, by aU who have given it a trial, to be superior to any iron in the world, as is shown by the following anal- ysis of Professor Johnson, giving the strength per square inch in pounds : Salisbury, Conn., iron 58,000 Swedish 41 1.187.2(iO Indian Corn, bushels 224.882 l,5>i»,i>14 Indian Meal, barrels 158 86.073 Pork, barrels 4,250 109,879 Hams and bacon, pounds 890,280 16,161,749 The total receipts of grain of all kinds, at that port, in no single year exceeded 14,500,000 bushels, either for exportation or consumption in the interior, which are about the receipts at Milwaukee, or Toledo. In 1859-60, the receipts were as follows : CORN. OATS. sacks and bbls. sacks and bbls. 1,722,637 659,550 exports would flow through other chan- nels. PRODUCT OF BREADSTUFFS FOR EXPORTATION. The amount of cereals, which, in 1862, flowed out of the Upper Mississippi Val- ley and the region of the Lakes, en route for the sea-board, was, according to the Buffalo Trade Report, 136,329,542 bush- els, which were respectively forwarded from the following points : STATEMENT SHOWINa THE SHIPMENT OF CEREALS FOR 1862. Places. Flour, bbls. W. Terminus B. & 0. R. R.* 690,000 " Pennsylvania Central 890,696 Dunkirk 1,095,365 Suspension Bridge* 875,000 Buffalo 2,846,022 Oswego 235,382 Cape Vincent 48,576 Ogdensburgh 576,394 Montreal 1,101,475 Rochester* 1,000 Wheat, bush. Corn, bush. 112,001 30,435,831 10,982,132 316.403 689,930 8,012,773 150,000 149,654 24,288,627 4,528,962 249,369 1,120,176 2,649,136 Other Grain bush. 550,000 1,622,893 10,173 2,750,000 3,849,620 1,467,823 49,047 18,865 519,896 6,622 Totals 8,359,910 50,699,130 32,985,923 10,844,939 Grand Total — (Flour reduced to bushels) 136,329,542 * Estimated. 44 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. SHIPMENTS OP CEREALS FROM FOUR LAKE PORTS, IN 1862. Places. Flour, bbls. Chicago 1,739,849 Milwaukee 711,405 Toledo* 1,261,291 Detroitt 998,535 Wheat. bush. 13,808,898 14,915,680 9,314,491 3,278,033 Corn. bush. 29,452,610 9,489 3,781,634 310,618 Other Grain. bush. 4,516,357 250,292 122,109 Totals 4,711,080 41,317,102 33,554,351 4,888,758 Grand Total — (Flour reduced to bushels) 103,315,611 The mining population of Lake Superior absorb not less than 150,000 bushels of cereals, which do not appear in the above tables, and which will account for the dis- crepancies between the amounts shipped from the initial points, and the amounts forwarded from the secondary points. These tables are illustrative, as showing that, in this great grain-movement, the four lake ports furnish more than fifty per cent, of all the flour, more than eighty per cent, of all the wheat, and more than seventy-five per cent, of the cereals of all kinds ; while Chicago and Toledo together furnish more corn than finds its way eastward through all these ave- nues, and Chicago alone contributes more than forty per cent, of the whole grosa product. Shlpmeiit§ of Flour and Orain for 13 Years. The following table shows the shipments of all kinds of Grain from Chicago, for the past thirteen years : Shipments of Flour (reduced to Wheat) and Grain, from Chicago, /or thirteen years. Wheat. Corn. Oats. Rye. Barley. Total Year. Bushels. Bushels. Bushels. Bushels. Bushels. Bushels. 1851 799,380 3,221,317 605,827 19,997 .... 4,646,291 1852 941,470 2,757,011 2,030.317 127,028 17.315 6,873,141 1853 1,680,993 2,780.25:? 1,748.493 120.275 82,162 6,412.181 1854 2.744,b60 6,637.899 3.239.987 148,421 41.153 12.932.320 1855 7,110,270 7.547,678 l,8b8.533 92,023 20,132 16.633,700 1866 9.419,365 11.129,658 1,014,547 . 19,051 590 21,583 221 1857 10.783.292 6,814,615 316,773 17,993 .... 18,032.678 1858 10.909,24:3 7,493,212 1,498,134 127,003 7,569 20,035.166 1859 10,759.359 4,217,654 1,174.177 478,162 131,449 16,753.795 1860 15,892.857 13,700.113 1,091,698 156,642 267,449 31.108,759 1861 23.855.553 24.372.725 1.63:?,237 39:3,813 226.534 50.481,b62 1862 22.508.143 29.452,610 8.112,366 871,796 539.195 56.484,110 1863-4 18,298,532 24,906,934 9,909,1*5 683,946 943,252 54,741,839 NoTB.— The last line represents shipments from April 1, 1863, to April 1, 1864. TRADE AND COMMERCE OF CHICAGO. 45 PORK AND BEEF PACKING. The progress which has been made in Pork Packing in Chicago during the past two years, is probably without a parallel in the history of any other city in the United States. During the past year there have been erected along the River seven large Pork and Beef houses, all of which have been constructed on the most approved plans. Besides these, there have been built a large number of smaller structures, of more or less permanence; all of which, with the temporary occupation of stores, outhouses, &c., give great additional fa- cilities in the extension of this business. As the season is not yet closed, we can only judge of the packing for 1862-'3, by the number cut from the commencement of the season, till January 1, which foots up 539,216, against 229,850, packed dur- ing the same period in 1861 — an increase, thus far, of 309,366. During the past two seasons, a large proportion of the Hogs cut have been made into English Middles, for the Liver- pool and London markets. In the early part of this season, nearly every packing house in the city was engaged in this branch of the business. The favor with which Chicago brands have been received in the leading markets of England, war- rants us in the belief that the trade will be one of permanence. TABLE - Shovoing th« nxmiber of Hoos Received and Forwarded forfite years. RECEIVED, YEAR. Live. Dressed. 1858. 416.225 124.261 1859 188,671 82,533 1860 285rl49 107,715 1861 M9,039 126,863 1 862 1,110,971 237,919 FORWARDED. YBAB. Live. Dressed. 18.^8 159,181 82.8.32 1S59 87,254 22,992 1860 191,931 85,233 1861 216,982 72,112 1862 446,506 44,629 Total. 192,018 110,246 227,164 289.094 491,135 Total. 540,486 271,204 892,864 675.902 BEEF CATTLE. The past year has shown but a small increase in the Cattle Trade of Chicago. By the tables which follow, it wiU be seen that the receipts of Cattle at this point amount to 209,655 against 204,579 in 1861, an increase of 5,076 head; and the shipments to 112,745 against 124,146, in the same period of time. Showing a decrease of 11,401. TABLE Shotoing the nicmber of Cattlk Received and Foi warded for five years. Received in 1858 140,5-54 1859 111,694 1860 177,101 " 1861 204.579 " 1862 209,655 Forwardedln 1858 42,633 1859 37,584 " 1860 97,474 " 1861 124.146 « 1862 112,745 The cereals and agricultural products shipped from Chicago consist of corn, wheat, rye, oats, barley, butter, cheese, potatoes, wool, hides, &c. The products of the forest are lumber, and wood of dif- ferent kinds. The minerals are coal, &c. ; while fisheries furnish large quantities of cured fish of different kinds for exporta- tion ; altogether giving employment to a large amount of tonnage navigating the 1,348,890 1 great lakes. TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES, OiTing a Description of €itie§, To^vn§, &c. ~7~^>4-~~ '-:— Buffalo, "Queen City of the Lakes," possessing commanding advantages, being 22 miles above Niagara Falls, is distant from Albany 298 miles by railroad, and about 350 miles by the line of the Erie Canal; in N. lat. 42* 53', W. long. 78° 55' from Greenwich. It is favorably situated for commerce at the head of Niagara River, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the great chain of Upper Lakes, and is the point where the vast trade of these inland seas is concentrated. The harbor, formed of Buflalo Creek, lies nearly east and west across the southern part of the city, and is separated from the waters of Lake Erie by a peninsula between the creek and lake. This harbor is a very secure one, and is of such capacity, that although steamboats, ships, and other lake craft, and canal-boats, to the number, in all, of from three to four hundred, have sometimes been assembled there for the transaction of the business of the lakes, jet not one-half part of the water accom- modations has ever yet been occupied by the vast business of the great and grow- ing "West. The harbor of Buffalo is the most capacious, and really the easiest and safest of access on our inland waters. Improve- ments are annually made by dredging, by the construction of ^^ new piers, wharves, warehouses, ft and elevators, which extend its facilities, and render the discharge ^^ and trans-shipment of cargoes ^^" more rapid and convenient ; and in this latter respect it is without an equal. Buffalo was first settled by the whites in 1801. In 1832 it was chartered as a city, being now governed by a mayor, re- corder, and board of twenty-six aldermen. Its population in 1830, according to the United States Census, was 8.668; in 1840, 18,213; and in 1850, 42,261. Since the latter period the limits of the city have been enlarged by taking in the town of Black Rock ; it is now divided into thir- teen wards, and, according to the Census of 1860, contained 81,130 inhabitants, be- ing now the third city in point of size in the State of New York. The pubhc build- ings are numerous, and many of them fine specimens of architecture ; while the pri- vate buildings, particularly those for busi- ness purposes, are of the most durable construction and modern style. The man- ufacturing establishments, including sev- eral extensive ship-yards for the building and repairing of lake craft, are also numer- ous, and conducted on a large scale, pro- ducing manufactured articles for the American and Canadian markets. The principal public buildings are an BUFFALO TO DETROIT NORTH SHORE ROUTE. 47 U. States Custom-IIouse and Post-Oflfice ; City Hall; Court-House and Jail; 2 Thea- tres, and 60 Churches of different denom- inations. Here are also 8 banking houses, 4 Savings Banks, and several Fire and Marine Insurance Companies. The Lines of Steamers and Railroads diverging from Buffalo tend to make it one of the greatest thoroughfares in the Un- ion. Steamers and propellers run to Cleve- land, Sandusky, Toledo, Detroit, Mackinac, Saut Ste. Marie, Green Bay, Milwaukee, Chicago, &c. Railroads running from Buffalo. 1. Neio York Ctniral, to Albany and Troy, 298 miles. 2. Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston, 28 miles. 3. Buffalo, New York, and Erie, to the city of New York, 434 miles. 4. Lake Shore Railroad, to Cleveland, Ohio, 183 miles. 5. Buffalo and Lake Huron Railway^ 161 miles. 6. Great Western (Canada) Railvmy (Sus. Bridge to Detroit, Mich.), 230 miles. There are also four lines of City Rail- roads running to different points within the limits of Buffalo. The principal Hotels are the Tiffi Home, and Mansion House, on Main street ; Bon- ney's Hotel, on Washington street; the Everett House, facing the Terrace ; and the Wad'iworth House, on Exchange street. There are now running from Buffalo to different ports on Lake Erie and the Up- per Lakes seven different Lines of Pro- pellers, annually transporting an immense amount of merchandise and produce, which finds its exit eastward by means of the Erie Canal, and the several Railroad Lines. "The climate of Buffalo is, without doubt, of a more even temperature than any other city in the same parallel of lati- tude from the Mississippi to the Atlantic coast. Observations have shown that the thermometer never ranges as low in win- ter, nor as high in summer, as at points in Massachusetts, the eastern and. central portions of this State, the northern and southern shores of Lake Erie in Michigan, Northern Illinois, and Wisconsin. The winters are not as keen, nor the summers, cooled by the breezes from the lake, as sultry ; and in a sanitary point of view, it is probably one of the healthiest cities in the world. " London, usually considered the health- iest of cities, has a ratio of one death in forty inhabitants. The ratio of Buffalo is one in fifty-six. The favorable situation of the city for drainage, and for a supply of pure water ; its broad, well-paved streets, hned with shrubbery and shade- trees ; its comparatively mild winters ; its cool summers ; its pleasant drives and picturesque suburbs, and its proximity to the ^ Falls, ^ combine to render it one of the most desirable residences on the con- tinent." BUFFALO TO DETROIT-NORTH SHORE ROUTE. On leaving the wharf at Buffalo, the Steamers usually run direct for Long Point jn the Canada, or North Shore of Lake Erie, proceeding for most of the distance in British waters, to the mouth of Detroit River. Long Point, 65 miles from Buffalo, is a long strip of land, nearly 20 mile3 long, and from one to three miles in width, covered for the most part with a stunted growth of forest trees. It was formerly a peninsula, running out from the land in an easterly direction, nearly half way across the lake; but the waters having 4a TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. made a wide breach across its western extremity, has converted it into an island. There is an important hght-house on the east end to guicie the mariner on his pas- sage through Lake Erie, here about 40 miles wide, and where is found the great- est depth of water. To this Point both shores of the lake can be seen in a clear morning from the deck of the steamer, affording a most grand sight when the sun rises on a cloudless day. Then may usually be seen a fleet of vessels wending their way toward Buffalo or the mouth of the Welland Canal, through which chan- nel annually passes a great number of steam propellers and sail vessels on their way to Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River Port Colborne, C. W., situated about 20 miles west of Buffalo, lies at the mouth of the Welland Canal, while Port Maitland, some 20 miles far- ther, is situated at the mouth of Grand River, where is a navigable feeder com- municating with the canal, thus affording two entrances to the above canal. Port Dover, about 70 miles west of Buffalo, and 40 miles distant from Ham- ilton by proposed railroad route, is situated on the north shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the river Lynn. Here is a good harbor, and the village is a place of grow- ing importance, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. Port Ryerse and Port Rowan are small villages on the Canada shore, situ- ated on the bay formed by Long Point. Inland there is to . be found a rich and fine farming district, consisting of some of the best lands in Canada West. The Sand Hills, immediately west of Long Point, are seen for some distance as the steamer pursues her onward course toward Point aux Pinf>, passing through the widest part of the lake, where both shores are lost sight of for a number of miles. The water usually presents a clear green color in the middle, but near the shore is more or less tinged with muddy water, proceeding from the streams empty- ing into the lake. Port Burwell, C. W., about 35 miles west of Long Point, is handsomely situ- ated at the mouth of Otter Creek. Here is a light-house and good harbor. A large amount of lumber and other pro- ducts are annually exported from this place to Eastern markets. Port Stanley, about 25 miles far- ther west, is handsomely situated at the mouth of Kettle Creek, being in part sur- rounded by high and picturesque hills in the immediate vicinity. The harbor is well protected, and much frequented by British and American vessels running on Lake Erie. It is nine miles south of St. Thomas, and twenty-four from London, the chief town of the county of Middle- sex, for which place it may be considered the out-port. A plank-road runs between the two places; also, the London ana Port Stanley Railroad, connecting with the Great Western Railway of Canada. Steamers run from Port Stanley to Buf- falo, Cleveland, and other ports on Lake Erie. Point aux Pins, or Rond' Eau (usually called by the American navigators Bound 0), about 100 miles west of Long Point, is a cape which projects from the Canada shore, enclosing a natural basin of about 6,000 acres in extent, with a depth of from ten to twelve feet, thus forming an excellent and secure harbor, the entrance to which has been improved by the Cana- dian government by running out piers, etc. It is proposed to construct a ship canal from this port to the St. Clair River, , a distance of about 35 miles, thus avoid- ing the St. Clair Flats. Another Canadian project is to construct a canal from Gode- rich to Hamilton, C. W., about 120 milea in length. Point Pelee, lying about 40 miles east of the mouth of Detroit River, pro- jects a number of miles into Lake Erie, DETROIT RIVER BUFFALO TO DETROIT NORTH SHORE ROUTE. 49 and forms, in connection with the island of Point Pelee and other islands in the vicinity, the most picturesque portion of lake scenery to be met with on this in- land sea. FoiXT Pel^b Island, belonging to Canada, is about seven miles long, and two or three miles in width. It is in- habited by a few settlers. The island is said to abound with red cedar, and pos- sesses a fine lime-stone quarry. A light- house is situated on the east side. The steamers bound for Detroit River usually pass to the north side of Point Pelee Island, and run across Pigeon Bay toward Bar Point, situated at the mouth of Detroit River. Several small islands are passed on the south, called Eaut Sister, Middle Sister, and West Sister; also, in the distance, may be seen the Bass Islands, known as the "^N'orth Bass," "Middle Bass," and "South Bass." On the west side of the latter lies the secure harbor of Put-in-Bay, celebrated as the rendezvous of Com, Perry's fleet, before and after the glorious naval victory which he achieved over the British fleet, Sep- tember 10th, 1813. Detroit River, forming one of the links between the Upper and Lower Lakes, is next approached, near the mouth of which may be seen a light on the Michi- gan shore called Gibraltar Liijht, and an- other light on an island attached to Can- ada, the steamers usually entering the river through the east or BriUfih Channel of the river, although vessels often pass through the west or American, Channel. Amherstburgh, C. W., 18 miles j below Detroit, is an old and important towiL Tlie situation is good; the banks of the river, both above and below the {village, but particularly the latter, Avhere the river emerges into Lake Erie, are very beautiful; several handsome residences may here be seen, surrounded by highly cultivated grounds. About a mile below the town is a chalybeate spring, which ia said to resemble the waters of Chelten- ham, in England. British and American vessels frequently land at Amherstburg, on their trips to and from the Upper Lakes. Fort ]\[alden, capable of accommo- dating a regiment of troops, is situated about half a mile above Amherstburg, on the east bank of the river, the channel of which it here commands. At Brownstowx, situated on the opposite side of the river, in Michigan, ia the battle-ground where the Americana, under disadvantageous circumstances, and with a slight loss, routed the British forces, which lay in ambush, as the former were on their way to relieve the fort at Frenehtown, which event occurred August 5, 1812. SA.NOWICH, C. W., is beautifuU~ sit- uated on the river, two miles below Detroit, and nine miles below Lake St. Clair. It stands on a gently sloping bank a short distance from the river, which is here about a mile wide. This is one of the oldest settlements in Canada "West. The town contains 3,133 inhabitants. Windsor, C. W., situated in the township of Sandwich, is a village direct- ly opposite Detroit, with which it is con- nected by three steam ferries. It was laid out in 1834, and is now a place of considerable business, having a population of about 2,500 inhabitants. Here ter- minates the Great Western Railway of Canada, which extends from Niagara Falls or Suspen.>ion Bridge, via Hamilton and Loudon, to opposite Detroit — thus forming an important link in the great lino of railroads, now finished, running from the seaboard at different points to the Missis- sippi and Missouri Rivers. RAILROAD ROUTi: from Nia;i^ara Falls to Hamilton and Detroit, via Oreat Western Railway of Canada. This great International Line, extend- ing from Niagara River to Detroit River, opposite the city of Detroit, a distance of 229 miles, passes through a fine and in- teresting tiection of country, equal in many respects to Western New York. It connects with the New York Central and Buffalo and Niagara Falls Railroad, forming a great through route of travel. Starting from the Suspension Bridge at Clifton, two miles below the Falls of Ni- agara, the passenger train soon reaches the verge of the mountain ridge over- looking the plain below, while in the dis- tance may be seen the broad waters of Lake Ontario, usually studded with sail vessels and propellers on their way to or from the mouth of the Welland Canal. " Traced like a map, the landscape lies In cultured beauty stretching wide." Thorold, nine miles, is situated on the line of the Welland Canal, where is abundant water-power propelling five or six flouring mills. A railroad ex- tends to Port Dalhousie, some five or six miles distant, connecting with a steamer running to Toronto. This road will be extended to Port Colbourne, on Lake Erie, about twenty miles distant. St. CA.THERINES, 12 miles from the Suspension Bridge, is a flourishing town, also situated on the line of the Welland Canal, whicli connects Erie and Ontario. This has become of late a fashionable place of resort during the summer months, caused by the mineral waters of the '^Ar- tesian Wells^^ obtaining great celebrity, owing to their curative properties. Here are several well-kept hotels for the accom- modation of visitors. St. Catherines is justly termed "^e Saratoga of Canada,^^ being annually visited by thousands of invalids and pleasure-seekers. Beams viLLE, 22 miles from the Suspension Bridge, is a thriving village about one mile from the station. Grimsby, 5 miles farther, is situated on Forty-mile Creek, the scene of some hard fighting during the war of 1812. It is a small village of 350 inhabitants ; there are two churches, a hotel, and several stores ; also, a grist and saw mills pro- pelled by water-power. Haatiiiton, 43 miles from Suspen- sion Bridge, is the principal station on the line of the Great Western Railway, where are located the principal offices and work- shops connected with the company. Here is a commodious depot and steamboat land- ing. Carriages and omnibuses are always in readiness to convey passengers to the hotels in the city, and steamboat landings. The Toronto Branch of the Great West- ern Railway commences at Hamilton, and extends a distance of thirty eight mdes to the city of Toronto, running near the shore of Lake Ontario. On leaving Hamilton for Windsor or Detroit, the road passes near the mansion of the late Sir Allan M'Nab, and over the Des Jardines Canal, entering the head of Burlington Bay. Here is also a Suspen- sion Bridge in sight, thrown ove*" the stream as it cuts its way through the high bank which encircles the bay or lake. This point presents a beautiful view, both on leaving or arriving at the head-waters uf Lake Ontario. DuNDAS, five miles from Hamilton, is situated on rising ground on the side of the mountain, and is a thriving manu- facturing place, having the advantage of a stream which flows, or rather rushes, with great impetuosity through its centre, working on its way numerous mills. The Des Jardines Canal runs from hence to Burlington Bay, enabling the manufac- turers to ship their goods at their own doors. BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. n Harrfsburgh. 19 miles from Ham- ilton, is the station ot the Gait Branch of the Great AVestern Railway. Paris, with the Upper and Lower Town, contains about 3,500 inhabitants; so called from its contiguity to beds of gypsum or plaster of Paris. It possesses a considerable amount of water-power, which works numerous mills. There are two foundries, a tannery, machine-shop, distillery, saw-mill, etc. The Buffalo and Lake Huron Railway intersects the Great Western at this point, running to Gode- rich. on Lake Huron. Woodstock, 48 miles from Ham- ilton, and 138 miles from Windsor, is a county town, well situated on rolling ground, and contains about 4,500 inhab- itants. It may be called a town of mag- nificent distances ; East and West Wood- stock forming a street upward of a mile in length. The vacant spaces, however, are fast being filled up with stately edi- fices, and it will thus in a short time be- come one of the handsomest thorough- fares in Canada. In this locality, noted for its handsome country seats — and indeed all the way from Hamilton — the land, as seen from the road (the railroad for the most part passes through a new country), is rolling and well cleared of trees and stumps, presenting more the appearance of "merrie England" than any other section of the Province. IxaERSOLL, nine miles farther, for- merly an Indian village, now contains about 2.000 inhabitants. A small arm of the Thames runs through it, and fur- nishes some water-power, by which sev- eral mills are worked. Since the opening of the railway it has risen in a surprising manner; and the town, which before then had a very dingy appearance, the houses being of wood and wanting paint, is now gay with white brick, and the streets resound with the hum of an en- terprising population. London, 119 miles from Suspension Bridge, and 110 miles from Win 1; or, if not, like her English namesake, The great resort Of all the earth — checkered with ;'.ll Coinplexions of mankind — is nevertheless a very stirrin'^ business place, and presents another inst i;i;e of the energy and enterprise of the Canad ans. Ten years ago, this then very small vil- lage of wooden houses was entirely burned down, and now on its a?hes is raised a most flourishing city, containing four banks, several wholesale houses, fif- teen churches, many of them handsome structures, and the English Church hav- ing a fine peal of bcdls; life and fire in- surances offices, breweries and distilleries. It has three newspapers and several good hotels. Population nearly 18,000. It is well watered by the river Thames, which, however, is only navigable up to Chatham, sixty miles distant. The London and Port Stanley R. R. here joins the Great Western Railway; length 24 miles, running south to Lake Erie. Chatham, 46 miles from Windsor, situated on the river Thames, possesses the great advantage of a navigation, and is therefore a plac6 of considerable busi- ness. It contains eight churches ; and being the county town of Kent, it has a court-house, a very handsome building, several grist and saw mills, woollen factory, two foundries, machine-shop, etc. Steam- ers ply between Chatham, Detroit, and Amherstburg. Population about 5,000. Windsor, 229 miles from Suspension Bridge, opposite Detroit, prettily situated on the banks of the river, is a place of considerable business, and is rapidly in- creasing in wealth and population, owing to the advantage it has of being the western terminus of the Great Western Railway. Three steam-ferries ply between Wind- sor and Detroit, making close connections for the benefit of railroad passengers. X BUFFALO TO GODERICH, C. W., via BUFFALO AUD LAKE HURON RAILWAY. This important line of travel extends from Buffalo, N. Y., crossing Niagara River by means of a steam ferry at Blac < Rock to Fort Erie, on the Canada side. It is proposed to construct a permanent railroad bridge of about one mile in length, a short distance above the present ferry. From Fort Erie the line of the railway extends westward within a short . distance of Lake Erie for forty miles, to Dunville, situated at the mouth of Grand River, crossing the Welland Canal. From Dunville the road runs along the valley of the river on the north side to Brantford, 38 miles farther, and frum thence extends westward to Paris, where it connects with the Great Western Rail- way of Canada. The line thence runs to Stratford, C. W., where it connects with the Grand Trunk Railway, a total distance from Buffalo of 116 miles. From this point the road is now completed and in running order to Goderich, situated on Lake Huron, a total distance of 163 miles. Dunville is advantageously situated on the Grand River, at a point where it is intersected by the feeder of the Wel- land Canal. It is a place of considerable business, and contains several grist, saw, and plaster mills, and a tannery. Popu- lation about 1,500. The Wdlaad Canal is one of the many works of the same kind of which Cana- dians may be proud. This Canal affords a passage fur propellers, sloops, and schooners of 125 tons burden, around the Falls of Niagara, and connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. It is 42 miles long, including feeder, 56 feet wide, and from 8.V to 16 feet deep. The whole descent from one lake to the other is 334 feet, which is accomplished by 37 locks. Brantford, 78 miles from Buffalo, and 82 miles from Goderich, is beautifully situated on Grand River, and named after Brant, the renowned chief of the Six Na- tions Indians, who, with his tribe, steadily supported the British Crown during theL American War. "In ^Gertrude of Wyo- ming^ he is aUuded to in disparaging terms : ' The mammoth comes — the fiend, the monster Brant.' But some years afterward Campbell was obliged to apologize to Brant's son, who happened to visit London ; as it appeared, on satisfactory evidence, his father was not even present at the horrible desolation of Wy«.)ming. This much is due to the memory of Brant, who was a brave war- rior and a steadfast ally of the British, and always exerted himself to mitigate the horrors of war." Brantford, until the opening of the Great Western Railway, was a great wheat market, the streets being crowded with hundreds of wagons daily ; but that road created other markets, and to this extent the town has suffered. It has, however, other sources of prosperity. There is no place in the Province which commands such extensive water-power, and which is made available for the working of nu- merous mills. The iron foundries, ma- chine sliops, and potteries are on a large scale, and have caused the place to be re- garded as the Birmingham of Canada. It has a goodly number of churches of vari- ous denominations, and one of the largest and handsomest hotels in the Province — * "The Kirby House." Population about 6,000. Stratford is a new and thriving town, favorably situated on the line of the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. This section of Canada enjoys a good climate and fertile soil, producing cereal grains in great abundance. TABLE OF DISTANCES — SOUTH SHORE ROUTE. 53 Oodericli, C. W., 163 miles dis- tant from Buflalo, by railroad route, is ad- vantageously situated on the east shore of Lake Huron, enjoying a healthy and delightful climate. Here is a good and secure harbor, being easily accessible to the largest steamers and sail vessels nav- igating the Upper Lakes. Here is erected an extensive railroad depot, warehouses, grain elevator, and wharves, owned by the Buffalo and Lake Huron Railway company. The town is beautifully situ- ated on elevated ground, rising about 150 feet above the waters of Lake Huron, here celebrated for their purity. The pop- ulation amounts to about 5,000, and is rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. Steamers run daily from this port to Sar- nia, Detroit, Saginaw, and other ports on Lake Huron. A line of propellers, car- rying passengers aud freight, also run from Goderich to Mackinac, Milwaukee, Chicago, etc. — connecting with the Buf- falo and Lake Huron Railway — thus forming a through line of travel from Buffalo to the above ports. There aro several other ports of im- portance lying north of Goderich, on the Canada side of the lake, from whence steamers run to and fro almost daily, during the season of navigation. TABL.E OF DISTAIVCES. FBOM BUFFALO TO TOLEDO — SOUTH SHORE ROUTE. Ports, etc. Miles. Buffalo, N. T Silver Creek, K Y 34 Dunkirk, " 42 Portland, " 52 Erie, Pa 90 Conneaut, Ohio 117 Ashtabula, " 131 Painesville, " 156 Cleveland, " 185 Kelley's Island 240 Sandusky, Ohio 245 South Bass Island 245 West Sister Island. . . 263 Turtle Island 275 Maumee Bay 278 Toledo, Ohio 285 Ports, etc. Miles. Toledo, Ohio Q Maumee Bay 7 Turtle Island 10 West Sister Island 22 South Bass Island 40 Sandusky, Ohio 40 Kelley's Island 45 Cleveland, Ohio 100 Painesville, " 129 Ashtabula, " 154 Conneaut, " 168 Erie, Pa 195 Portland, N. Y 233 Dunkirk, " 243 SUver Creek, N, Y 251 Buffalo, N. Y 285 Note. — The direct through route as run by the steamers from Buffalo to Toledo is ftbout 250 miles; the circuit of Lake Erie being about 560 miles. BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC- ROUTE. -SOUTH SHORE Steamers and ropellers of a large class leave Buffalo daily, during the season of navigation, for the different ports on the American or South Shore of Lake Erie, connecting vi^ith railroad cars at Cleveland, Sandusky, Toledo, and De- troit. On leaving Buffalo harbor, which is formed by the mouth of Buffalo Creek, where is erected a breakwater by the United States government, a fine view is afforded of the city of Buffalo, the Canada shore, and Lake Erie stretching off in the distance, with here and there a steamer or sail vessel in sight. As the steamer proceeds westward through the middle of the lake, the landscape fades in the dis- tance, until nothing is visible but a broad expanse of green waters. Sturgeon Point, 20 miles from Buffalo, is passed on the south shore, when the lake immediately widens by the land receding on both shores. During the prevalence of storms, when the full blast of the wind sweeps through this 'lake, its force is now felt in its full power, driving the angry waves forward with the velocity of the race-horse, often causing the waters to rise at the lower end of the lake to a great height, so as to overflow its banks, and forcing its surplus waters into the Niagara River, which causes the only perceptible rise and increase of the rush of waters at the Falls. Dunkirk, N. Y., 42 miles from Buffalo, is advantageously situated on the shore of Lake Erie where terminates the New York and Erie Railroad, 460 miles in length. Here is a good and secure harbor, affording about twelve feet of water over tlie bar. A light-liouse, a beacon-light, and breakwater, the latter in 'llapidated state, have here been erected / the United States government. As an anchorage and port of refuge this harbor is extremely valuable, and is much resort- ed to for that purpose by steamers and sail vessels during the prevalence of storms. The village was incorporated in 1837, and now contains about 4,000 inhabitants, 500 dwelling-houses, five churches, a bank, three hotels, and 20 stores of differ- ent kinds, besides several extensive store- houses and manufacturing establishments. The Buffalo and State Line Railroad, ex- tending to Erie, Pa., runs tlirough Dun- kirk, forming in part the Lake Shore line of railroad, which, in connection with the railroad leading direct to the city of New York, affords great advantages to this locality, which is no doubt destined to in- crease with the growing trade of the lake country. Fredonia, three miles from Dun- kirk, with which it is connected by a plank-road, is handsomely situated, being elevated about 100 feet above Lake Erie. It contains about 2,300 inhabitants, 300 dwelling-houses, five churches, one bank, an incorporated academy, four taverns, twenty stores, besides some mills and manufacturing establishments situated on Canadoway Creek, which here affords good water-power. In the village, near the bed of the creek, is an inflammable spring, from which escapes a sufficient quantity of gas to light the village. A gasometer is constructed which forces the gas through tubes to different parts of the village, the consumer paying $4 per j-ear for each burner used. It is also ufced for lighting the streets of the village. The flame is large, but not so strong or bril- liant as that obtained from gas in our cities ; it is, however, in high favor with the inhabitants. Barcelona, N. Y., 58 miles from BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC SOUTH SHORE ROUTE. 55 Buffalo, is the westernmost village in the State. It is a port of entry, and is much resorted to by steamers and large vessels navigating the lake, affording a tolerably good harbor, where is situated a light- house which is lighted by inflammable gas ; it escapes from the bed of a creek about half a raile distant, and is carried in pipes to the light-house. Erie, " the Lake City of Pennsylva- nia," distant 90 miles from Buffalo and 95 miles from Cleveland, is beautifully situated on a bluff, affording a prospect of Presque Isle Bay and the Lake beyond. It has one of the largest and best harbors on Lake Erie, from whence sailed Perry's fleet during the war of 1812. The most of the vessels were here built, being finished in seventy days from the time the trees were felled ; and here the gallant victor re- turned with his prizes after the battle of Lake Erie, which took place September 10th, 1813. The remains of his flag-ship, the Lawrence^ lie in the harbor, from which visitors are allowed to cut pieces as relics. On the higli bank, a little distance from the town, are the ruins of the old French fort, Presque Isle, The city con- tains a court-house, nine churches, a bank, three hotels, a ship-yard, several exten- sive manufacturing establishments, and about 10,000 inhabitants. In addition to the Lake Shore Railroad^ the Philadelphia and Erie Railroad^ terminates at this place, affording a direct communication with New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore. Presque Isle Bay is a lovely sheet of water, protected by an island projecting into Lake Erie. There is a light-house on the west side of the entrance to the bay> in lat, 42 » 8' N. ; it shows a ftxed light, elevated 93 feet above the surface of the lake, and visible for a. distance of 15 miles. The beacon sliows a fixed light, elevated 28 feet, and is visible for nine miles. CoNNEAUT, Ohio, lit miles from Buf- falo anil 68 from Cleveland, situated in the northeast corner of the State, stands on a creek of the same name, near its en- trance into Lake Erie. It exports large quantities of lumber, grain, pork, beef, butter, cheese, etc., being surrounded by a rich agricultural section of country. The village contains about 2,000 inhabi- tants. The harbor of Conneaut lies two miles from the village,- where is a light- house, a pier, and several warehouses. Ashtabula, Ohio, 14 miles farther west, stands on a stream of the same name, near its entrance into the lake. This is a thriving place, inhabited by an intel- ligent population estimated at 3,500. The harbor of Ashtabula is two and a half miles from the village, at the mouth of the river, where is a light-house. Fairport stands on the east side of Grand River, 155 miles from Buffalo. It has a good harbor for lake vessels, and is a port of considerable trade. This harbor is so well defended from winds, and easy of access, that vessels run in when they cannot easily make other ports. Here is a light-house and a beacon to guide the mariner. Painesville, Ohio, three miles fro?a Fairport and 30 miles from Cleveland, is a beautiful and flourislung town, being sur- rounded by a fine section of country. It is the county seat for Lake County, and contains a court-house, five churches, a bank, 20 stores, a number of beautiful residences, and about 3,000 inhabitants. * This great line traverses the Northern Mnd Northwest counties of Pennsylvania to the city of Erie on Lake Erie, It has be^jn leased by Ihe Pennsylvania Railroad Company, and under their auspices is beipg rapidly apeacfi throughout its entire length. ^ 56 TRIP THKOUGH THE LAKES. m:, Perry Monument, Erected Sept. 10, 1860. ClCTeland, "theForestCity," Cuy- ahoga County, Ohio, is situated on a plain, elevated 80 feet above the waters < f Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahog river, which forma a secure harbor for essels of a large class; being in N. lat. 41° 30', W. long, 81^ 42' The bluff on which it is built rises abruptly from the lake level, where stands a light-house, near the en- trance into the harbor, from which an extensive and magnificent view is obtained, overlooking the city, the meandering of the Cuyahoga, the line of railroads, the ship- ping in the harbor, and the vessels pass- ing on the Lake. The city is regularly and beautifuHy laid out, ornamented with numerous shade- trees, from which it takes the name of "Forest City." Near its centre is a large public square, in which stands a beautiful marble statue of Commodore Oliver H. Perry, which was inaugurated Sept. 10, 1860, in the presence of more than 100,000 people. It commemorates the glorious achievement of the capture of the British fleet on Lake Erie, September 10th, 1813. Cleveland is the mart of one of the great- est grain-growing States in the Union, and has a ready communication by railroad with New York, Boston, and Philadelphia on the east, while continuous lines of railroads run south, and west to the con- fines of settlement in Kansas and Nebras- ka. It is distant 185 miles from Buffalo, 135 miles from Columbus, 107 miles from Toledo, and 144 miles from Pittsburgh by railroad route ; 120 miles from Detroit by steamboat route. It contains a County Court-House and Jail, City Hall, U. S. Custom-House and Post Office building; 1 Theatre; a Library Association with a public reading-room; 2 Medical Colleges, 2 Orphan Asylums, 35 Churches of different denominations; 4 Banks, a Savings Bank, and 2 Insurance Companies; also, numerous large manu- facturing companies, embracing iron and copper works, ship-building, &c. ; Gas- work?, "Water-Avorks. and two City Rail- road Companies. The stores and ware- houpcs are numerous, and many of them well built. It now boasts of 50,000 in- habitants, and is rapidly increasing in i.r.mbers and wealth. The Lake Superior ;rr'!o. is a source of great advantage and 1 CLE"'"ELAND, " THE FOREST CITY. 57 profit, while the other lake traffic, togeth- er with tlie facilities afforded by railroads and canals, makes Cleveland one of the favored cities bordering on the Inland Seas of America. The principal Hotels are the American Hotel, Angler House, Forest City House, Johnson House, and Weddell House ; all be- ing large and well-kept public houses. Railroads diverging from Cleveland. 1. Cleveland and Erie, 95 miles in length. 2. Cleveland, Columbus, and Cincinnati, 135 miles. 3. Cleveland and Toledo, Northern Divi- sion, 107 miles. 4. Cleveland and Mahoning, 6t miles finished. 5. Cleveland and Pittsburgh, connecting with Wheehng, Va., 200 miles. 6. Cleveland, Zanesville, and Cincinnati, 87 miles; diverging from Cleveland and Pittsburgh R. R. at Hudson. 7. Atlantic and Great Western Railway, connects with New York and Erie Rail- road, forming a through line of traveL Steamers and Propellers of a large class leave daily, during the season of navigation, for Bufltalo, Toledo, Detroit, Mackinac, G-reen Bay, Milwaukee, Chicago, the Saut Ste. Marie, and the different ports on Lake Superior, altogether transporting an immense amount of merchandise, grain, lumber, iron, and copper ore. The regis- tered Tonnage of this port, in 1861, was 82,518 tons. The Northern Transportation Company of Ohio has its principal office in Cleve- land. The Company owns 15 propellers of about 350 tons burden, running from Ogdensburgh and Oswego to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, Milwaukee, and Chicago. This line affords a cheap and speedy route for travellers and emigrants, as weU as for the transportation of merchandise and produce. The Cleveland Iron Mining Company, with a capital stock of $500,000, has its principal office in this city. The mine ia situated near Marquette, Lake Superior, being distant about 14 miles from the steamboat landing. A railroad extends to the Iron Mountain, affording facilities for the transportation of 2,000 tons of iron ore per day. This ore yields on an aver- age 663 per cent, of iron. The greater proportion of this ore finds a ready market in Cleveland, from whence the most of it is transported to the Mahoning Valley, where it meets the coal of that region and is smelted and manufactured into merchantable iron. Steamboat Route from Cleveland to Detroit. Porta, etc. Milea. Clkvelaxd, Ohio Point Pelee Is., and Light 60 Bur Point, C. W 97 Bui 3 Blanc Is. Light, | -,^0 ] '.-ti-oit Itiver. J ^^ " M.tlJen, C. "W 101 Giliialtar. Mich (h'.s.so Lsk', " 102 Mima .Tnha Is. and Light 108 Wijnndotte, Mich 100 FiKh Island Light Ill Fi-hting Island 112 Windsor, C. W 119 l-iraoiT 120 Ports, etc. Miles. Detroit, Mich Win(l oa LakeErle, f ^^ Bar Point, C. W 23 Point Peloe Island 60 CMCVEI.ANn 120 Fark, ,t8 00. ITsiTAL Time, 7 hours. 58 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Black River, 28 miles from Cleve- land, is a small village with a good har- bor, where is a ship-yard and other manufacturing establishments. Vermilion, 10 miles farther on the line of the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad, is a place of considerable trade, situated at the mouth of the river of the same name. Huron, Ohio, 50 miles from Cleve- land and 10 miles from Sandusky, is situated at the mouth of Huron River, which affords a good harbor. It contains several churches, 15 or 20 stores, several warehouses, and about 2,000 inhabitants. The islands lying near the head of Lake Erie, off Sandusky, are Kelley's Island, North Bass, Middle Bass, and South Bass islands, besides several smaller islands, forming altogether a handsome group. KeUey^s Island, the largest and most important, is famous for its grape culture, and has become a place of sum- mer resort by the citizens of Ohio and other States. On the north side of South Bass Island, lies the secure harbor of Put-in-Bay, made celebrated by being the rendezvous of Com. Perry's flotilla before and after the decisive battle of Lake Erie, which resulted in the capture of the entire British fleet. naval battle on lake ERIE. September 10th, 1813, the hostile fleets of England and the United States on Lake Erie met near the liead of the Lake, and a sanguinary battle ensued. The fleet bearing the "red cross" of England con- sisted of six vessels, carrying G4 guns, under command of the veteran Com. Barclay ; and the fleet bearing the " broad stripes and bright stars'' of the United States, consisted of nine vessels carrying 54 guns, under command of the young and inexperienced, but brave. Com. Oliver H. Perry. The result of this im- portant conflict was made known to the world in the following laconic dispatch, written at 4 p. m. of that day : ^^ Dear General,: "We have met thf enemy, and they are ours : Two ships two brigs, one schooner, and one sloop. With esteem, etc., 0. H. Perry " Gen. William H. Harrison." Sandusky, "The Bay City" capita of Erie Co., Ohio, is a port of entry and a place of considerable trade. It is ad vantageously situated on Sandusky Bay, three miles from Lake Erie, in N. lat. 41* 27', W. long. 82^ 45'. The bay is abou* 20 miles long, and five or six miles in width, forming a capacious and excellent harbor, into which steamers and vessel? of all sizes can enter with safety. The average depth of water is from ten to twelve feet. The city is built on a bed of Umestone, producing a good building material. It contains about 10,000 in- habitants, a court-house and jail, eight churches, two banks, several well-kept hotels, and a number of large stores and manufacturing establishments of differ- ent kinds. This is the terminus of the Sandusky, Dayton, and Cincinnati Railroad, 153 miles to Dayton, and the Sandui^ky, Mansfield, and 2\eivark Railroad, 116 miles in length. The Cievdand and Toledo Rail- road, northern division, also terminates at Sandusky. foledo, one of the most favored Cities of the Lakes, is situated on the Maumee river, four miles from its mouth, and ten miles from the Turtle Island Light, at the outlet of the Maumee Bay mto Lake Erie. The harbor is good, and the navigable channel from Toledo of sufficient depth for all steamers or sail vessels navi- gating the lakes. Toledo is the eastern terminus of the Wabash and Erie Canal, running through the Maumee and Wabash . valleys, and communicating with the Ohio River at Evansville, a distance of 474 miles ; also of the Miami and Erie Canal, which branches from the above canal 68 miles west of Toledo, and runs southwardly through the Miami BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. SOUTH SHORE ROUTE. 59 Valley in TVestern Ohio, and communi- cates with the Oliio River at Cincinnati, forming together the longest line of canal aavigation in the United States. The railroads diverging from Toledo are the Michigan Southern and Northern In- diana Railroad, running through the southern counties of Michigan and the northern counties of Indiana, and making its western terminus at Chicago, Illinois, at a distance of 2-43 miles; the Air Line Railroad, running due west from Toledo, through Northwestern Ohio and the northern counties of Indiana to Goshen, a distance of 110 miles, where it connects with the Northern Indiana Railroad, run- ning to Chicago ; and the Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Railroad. It is also the east- ern terminus of the Toledo, Wabash, and Western Railroad, running in a south- westerly direction through the Maumee and Wabash valleys, crossing the east- ern line of the State of Illinois, about 125 miles south of Chicago, and continuing in a southwesterly course through Dan- ville, Springfield, Jacksonville, Naples, etc., m Central Illinois, to the Mississippi River, and connecting with the Hannibal and St. Joseph Road, which stretches nearly due west through the State of Missouri to St. Joseph, on the Missouri River. The Dayton and Michigan Rail- road, which connects Toledo with Cincin- nati, is much the shortest railroad line connecting Lake Erie with the Ohio River. Besides the above important roads, the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad terminates here. Toledo is the nearest point for the im- mense country traversed by these canals and railroads, where a transfer can be made of freight to the more cheap trans- portation by the lakes, and thence througli the Erie Canal, Welland Canal, or Oswego Canal, to the seaboard. It is not merely the country traversed by these canals and railroads that send their products, and re- ceive their merchandise, through Toledo, but many portions of the States of Ken- tucky, Tennessee, and Missouri, find To- ledo the cheapest and most expeditious lake-port for the interchange and transfer of their products and merchandise. Tliis city is the capital of Lucas County, Ohio, where is situated a court-house and jail, several fine churches, a magnificent High School edifice, and five large brick ward school houses ; a young men's association that sustains a course of lec- tures during the winter ; two banks, two insurance companies, six hotels, and a great number of stores and storehouses ; also several extensive manufacturing es- tablishments. The principal hotels are the Island House and Oliver House. The population of Toledo in 1850 was about 4,000, and now it is supposed to contain 17,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and numbers. The shipping interest is increasing, here being trans-shipped annually an amount of grain exceeded only by Chicago, and otlier kinds of agricultural products of the great West. This city is destined, like Chicago, to export direct to European ports. At this time there are in process of erection in Toledo many handsome dwel- lings, numerous handsome blocks of stores, a post-office and custom-house by the general government, and a first-class hotel; these two latter buildings, from the plans we have seen, would do credit to any city, and when completed can be classed among the most elegant struc- tures. No city in the State can boast of finer private residences than Toledo ; and the general character of the buildings erected in the past four years is substan- tial and elegant. Perrysburgh, the capital of Wood Co., Ohio, is situated on the right bank of the Maumee River, 18 miles above its entrance into Maumee Bay, the southern termination of Lake Erie. It contains a court-house and jail, four churches, 20 stores of difTerent kinds, three steam saw- m TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. mills, a tannery, and several other manu- facturing establishments. Population about 1,500. Here is the head of steam- boat navigation on the Maumee River, affording thus far a sufficient depth of water for steamers of a large class. Old Fort Meigs, famous for having witlistood a siege by the British and In- dians in 1813, is one mile above this place. Maumee City, Lucas Co., Ohio, is a port of entry, situated on the Maumee River, opposite Perrysburgh, at the foot of the rapids and at the head of naviga- tion, nine miles above Toledo. A side cut here connects the Wabash and Erie Canal with the river. The Toledo and Illinois RaQroad also passes through this place. It contains five churches, ten stores, four flouring-mills, three saw-mills, one oil-mill, and other manufacturing es- tablishments propelled by water-power, the supply being here almost inexhausti- ble. Three miles above the city is the site of the famous battle fought against the Indians by Gen. Wayne, in 1794, known as the Battle of Miami Rapids. One mile below the town is Old Fort Miami, one of the early British posts. Maumee River rises in the north- east part of Indiana, and flowing northeast enters Lake Erie, through Maumee Bay. It is about 100 miles long, navigable 18 miles, and furnishing an extensive water- power throughout its course. The City of Monroe, capital of Monroe Co., Mich., is situated on both sides of the River Raisin, three miles above its entrance into Lake Erie, and about 40 miles from Detroit. It is connected with the lake by a ship canal, and is a termi- nus of the Michigan Southern Railroad, which extends west, in connection with the Northern Indiana Railroad, to Chica- go, 111. The town contains about 4,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, a United States land-office, eight churches, several public houses, and a number of large stores of different kinds. Here are two extensive piers, forming an outport at the mouth of the river; the railroad track running to the landing. A plank- road also runs from the outport to the city, which is an old and interesting lo- cality, being formerly called French town, which was known as the scene of the battle and massacre of River Raisin in the war of 1812. The Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Railroad, just completed, passes through this city. Steamers run from Detroit to Toledo, stopping at Monroe. Trenton, situated on the west bank of Detroit river, is a steamboat landing and a place of considerable trade. Population, 1,000. Wyandotte, ten miles below Detroit, is a new and flourishing manufacturing village, where are located tho most ex- tensive Iron Works in Michigan. The iron used at this establishment comes mostly from Lake Superior, and is con- sidered equal in quality to any in the world. The village contains about 1,600 inhabitants. Railroad Route a This important body of water being en- compassed by a band of iron, we subjoin the following Table of Distances : Mile8. Buffalo to Paris, C. W., via Buffalo and Lake Huron Railroad, 84 Paris to Windsor or Detroit, via Great Western Railway, 158 round I^ake Erie. Miles. Detroit to Toledo, Ohio, via Detroit and Toledo R. R., 63 Toledo to Cleveland, via Cleveland and Toledo R. R., ' 10*7 Cleveland to Erie, Pa., via Cleveland and Erie R. R., 95 Erie to Buffalo, via Lake Shore Road, 88 Total miles, 595 OHIO RIVER AND LAKE ERIE CANALS. FORT WAYNE. 61 The extreme length of Lake Erie is I lake about 560 milea, being about 100 250 miles, from the mouth of Niagara 1 miles less distance than has been stated River to Maumee Bay; the circuit of the [by some writers on the great lakes. Oliio River and Lake £rie Canals. The completion of the Miami Canal makes four distinct channels of commu- nication from the Ohio River through the State of Ohio to Lake Erie, namely: 1. The Erie Extension Canal, from Beaver, twenty or thirty miles below Pittsburgh, to Erie, 136 miles. 2. The Cross- Cut Beaver Canal, which is an ex- tension or branch from Newcastle, Pa., on the Beaver Canal, to Akron, Ohio, where it unites with the Portsmouth and Cleveland Canal — making a canal route from Beaver to Cleveland of 143 miles. 3. The Ohio Canal, from Cleveland to Portsmouth, through the centre of the State, 309 miles. 4. The Miami Extension, which is a union of the Miami Canal with the Wabash and Erie Canal, through Dayton, terminating at Toledo, at the mouth of the Maumee River on Lake Erie, 247 miles. The vast and increasing busi- ness of the Ohio Valley may furnish busi- ness for all these canals. They embrace rich portions of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Indiana ; but are not so located as to be free from competition with one another. At no distant time, they would unques- tionably command a sufficient independ- ent business, were it not probable tliat they may be superseded by railways. The capacity of railways — both for rapid and cheap transportation — as it is devel- oped by circumstances and the progress of science, is destined to affect very mate- rially the value and importance of cauals. Fort Wayne, The United States government is now engaged in making extensive improve- ments at Fori Wayne, which, when com- pleted, will render it one of the strongest Ibrtitications in the country, and almost impregnable against a land assault. The site of the fort, as is well known, is in Springwells, about three miles below the city of Detroit. Its location is admirable, being on a slight eminence, completely commanding the river, which at tliat point is narrower than in any other place of its entire length. Guns properly placed there could effectually blockade the river against ordinary vessels, and, with the aid of a few gunboats, could re- pulse any fleet which might present it- self. The present works were erected about the years 1842-43, mainly under the su- pervision of General Meigs. The form of the works is that of a star, mounting thirty-two barbette guns at the angles which rake the moat, and protect it against an assault by land. The height from the bottom of the ditch is about forty feet. The exterior of the embank- ments was supported by timbers, which, in the twenty years in which they have stood, have become unsound, and now give unmistakable evidence of decay. This fact has rendered necessary the im- provements which are now being made. Tliey consist of a wall around the entire fort, built against these timbers, which will not be removed, and which will not only sustain the embankments, but will render the place much more impregnable. Tlie wall is seven feet and a half in thickness, and twenty feet in height on every side. The outside facing, two fee^ in thickness, is of brick, the remainder is filled in with pounded stone, water-lime, 62 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Band, and mortar, making a solid wall of great strength. From the nature of the surrounding grounds, artillery cannot be brought to bear upon the wall, with the exception of about two feet at the top, which extends above the level of the ditch. The wall, therefore, could not be battered down, and the only possible way by which the place could be taken would be by a land assault and scaling the walls from the moat by means of ladders. This is effectually provided against by the placing of the guns, eight of which rake the moat on each side. The improve- ments now being made still further con- template placing these guns in casemates. which will render them still more secure, protecting the guns and gunners. Bar- bette guns will also be mounted on the bastions in addition to the casemate guns, which will be placed in a manner similar to that in which they are now placed. These improvements will greatly strength- en tlie works and render them more per- manent. The place is an important one, as the expense the government is at in rendering it impregnable clearly shows. In case of a war with Great Britain it would become of the highest importance. And acting on the maxim, "in time of peace prepare for war," it is the best time to attend to these improvements. TABLE OF DISTANCES From 't:. eland and Detroit to Superior City, forming a Grand Steam- boat Excursion of over Two Thousand Miles. Ports, &c. Cleveland, Ohio. . . . Maiden, C. W Detroit, Mich Lake St. CLiir Algonac, Mich Newport^ " St. Clait\ " PoKT Huron " I Port Sarnia, C. W. j " Point au Barque — \ Off Sairinaw Bay j " Thunder Bay Ishvnd. Point de Tour { St. Mary's River ) '" " Churx-Ks Landing . . 8aut Ste. Marie. . . Point Iroquois ... . White Fish Point Point au Sable Pictured Uocks Crand Island Jfit/yiiette. Mich P'>rtaire Entry /fuu/,'doi. Mich M:'.uil')u Island i'njiper Ilarhor E(i(ile Ilarhor Eagle River . . Ontonagon^ Mich . . Lii I'liintc. Wis Bayfield, Wis Point d»" Tour BuPEEiOK, City, Wis. Place to Place. .... .... 100 .... 20 .... 7 .... 33 .... 6 .... 10 .... 17 67 .... 75 .... 85 .. . 36 .... 14 .... 15 25 50 20 10 40 70 Portage 55 15 16 10 60 74 4 10 70 (on Miles. 100 120 127 160 166 176 193 260 335 420 456 470 4S5 510 560 5S0 590 630 700 Lake). 755 7 TO 786 796 a56 930 934 944 1,014 Ports, Ac. Place Superior City, "Wis Point de Tour Bayfield, Wis La Pointe " Ontonagon, Mich Eagle River " Eagle Harbor " Copper Harbor " Manitou Island Portage Entr,y Houghton, Mich (on Marquette " Grand Island Pictured Eocks Point au Sable White Fish Point.. Point Iroquois Saut Ste. Marie Church's Landing Point de Tour, ( Lake Huron, f Thunder Bay Island Otf Saginaw Bay ( Point an Barque ) Port Huron, Mich. | Port Sarnia, ('. W. j St. CI 'i?\ Mich Newport " Algonac, Mich St. Clair Flats Detroit, Mich Maiden, C. W Cleveland, Ohio to Plbce. 70 10 4 74 60 10 16 15 55 Portage 70 40 10 20 50 25 15 14 86 85 75 67 17 10 6 10 30 20 100 Miles. 70 80 84 158 218 228 244 259 314 Lake). 384 424 434 454 604 529 544 558 594 679 754 821 ass 848 854 864 894 914 1,014 DETROIT. ea Detroit, "The City op the Straits, " a port of entry, and the great commercial mart of the State, is favorably situated in N. lat. 42° 20; W. long. 82* 58', on a river or strait of the same name, elevated some 30 or 40 feet above its surface, be- ing seven miles below the outlet of Lake St. Clair and twenty above the mouth of the river, where it enters into Lake Erie. It extends for the distance of upward of a mile upon the southwest bank of the river, where the stream is three-fourths of a mile in width. The principal public and private oflBces and wholesale stores are located on Jefferson and "Woodward avenues, which cross each other at right angles, the latter running to the water's edge. There may usually be seen a great number of steamboats, propellers, and sail vessels of a large class, loading or unloading their rich cargoes, destined for Eastern markets or for the Great West^ giving an animated appearance to this place, v/hich is aptly called the City of the Straits. It was incorporated in 1815, being now divided into ten wards, and governed by a mayor, recorder, and board of aldermen. Detroit contains the old State-house, from the dome of which a fine view is obtained of the city and vi- cinity; the City Hall, Masonic Hall, Fire- men's Hall, Mechanic's Hall, Odd Fellows' .Hall, tiie Young Men's Society Building, two Market Buildings, forty Churches, ten Hotels, besides a number of taverns; a United States Custom-house and Post- office, and United States Lake Survey office, a theatre, a museum, two orphan asylums, four banks, and a savings' fund insti ute, water-works, and ras-works, four grain elev- ators, five steam grist-mills, and several steam saw- mills, besides a great num- ber of other manufactur- ing establit^hments. There are also several extensive I ship-yards and macliine-shops, where are built and repaired vessels of almost every description. The population iu 1850 was 21,891; in 1860, 45,619. The principal Hotels are the Biddle House, and Michigan Exchange, on Jefferson avenue, and the Russell Bouse, on AYood- ward avenue, facing Campus Martivs, an open square near the centre of the City. Detroit may be regarded as one of the most favored of all the ^Yestern cities of tlie Union. It was first settled by the French explorers as early as 1701, as a military and fur trading port. It changed its garrison and military government in 1760 for a British military commander and troops, enduring under the latter re- gime a series of Indian sieges, assaults, and petty but vigilant and harassing war- fare, conducted against the English gar- rison by the celebrated Indian warrior Pontiac. Detroit subsequently passed into possession of the American revolu- tionists ; but on the 16th August, 1812, it was surrendered by Gen. Hull, of the United States army, to Gen. Brock, com- mander of the British forces. In 1813 it was again surrendered to the Americans, under Gen. Harrison. The following Railroad lines diverge from Detroit: 1. The Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo EaiU road, 62 miles in length, connecting with the Michigan Southern Railroad at Mon- roe, and with otlier roads at Toledo. 2. The Michigan Central Railroad, 282 miles in length, extends to Chicago, 111. This important road, running across the State from east to west, connects at 64 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Michigan City, Ind., with the New Al- bany and Salem Railroad — thus forming A direct line of travel to Louisville, St. Louis, etc., as weU as Chicago and the Far West. 3. The Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad runs tlirough a rich section of country to Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan, op- posite Milwaukee, Wis. 4. The Detroit and Port Huron Railroad^ connecting with the Grand Trunk Rail- way of Canada, connects Lake Huron by rail with the valley of the Ohio River. 5. The Great Western Railway o^GsiMa,^^. has its terminus at Windsor, opposite Detroit, the two places, being connected by three steam ferries — thus affording a speedy line of travel through Canada, and thence to Eastern cities of the United States. Steamers of a large class run from De- troit to Cleveland, Toledo, and other ports on Lake Erie ; others run to Port Huron, Saginaw, Goodrich, C. AY., and other ports on Lake Huron. The Lake Superior line of steamers run- ning from Cleveland and Detroit direct for the Saut Ste. Marie, and aU the prin- cipal ports on Lake Superior, are of a large class, carrying passengers and freight. This has become one of the most fashion- able and healthy excursions on the con- tinent. The Detroit River, or Strait, is a noble stream, through which flow the surplus waters of tlie Upper Lakes into Lake Erie. It is 27 miles in length, and from lialf a mile to two miles in width, forming the boundary between the United States and Canada. It has a perceptible current, and is navigable for vessels of the largest class. Large quantities of fish are annually taken in the river, and the sportsman usually finds an abundance of wild ducks, which breed in great numbers in the marshes bordering some of the islands and harbors of the coast. There are altogether seventeen islands in the river. The names of these are, Clay, Celeron, Hickory, Sugar, Bois Blanc, Ella, Fox, Rock, Grosse Isle, Stoney, Fight' ing, Turkey, Mammy Judy, Grassy, Mud, Belle or Hog, and He la Feche. The two latter are situated a few miles above De- troit, near the entrance to Lake St. Clair, where large quantiti6s of white-fish are annually taken. Ile la Peche, attached to Canada, was the home of the celebrated Indian chief Pontiac. Parkman, in his "History of the Conspiracy of Pontiac," says: "Pontiac, the Satan of this forest-paradise, was ac- customed to spend the early part of the summer upon a small island at the open- ing of Lake St. Clair." Anotlier author says: "The king and lord of all this country lived in no royal state. His cabin was a small, oven-shaped structure of bark and rushes. Here he dwelt with his squaws and children ; and here, doubtless, he might often have been seen carelessly reclining his naked form on a rush-mat or a bear-skin, like an ordinary Indian war- rior." The other fifteen islands, most of them small, are situated below Detroit, within the first twelve miles of the river after entering it from Lake Erie, the largest of which is Grosse Isle, attached to Michi- gan, on which are a number of extensive and well-cultivated farms. This island has become a very popular retreat for citizens of Detroit during the heat of summer, there being here located good pubhc houses for tlie accommodation of visitors. Father Hennepin, who was a passenger on the " Griffin," the first vessel that crossed Lake Erie, in 1619, in his descrip- tion of the scenery along the route says : " The islands are the finest in the world : the strait is finer than Niagara ; the banks are vast meadows, and the pros- pect is terminated with some hills covered with vineyards, trees bearing good fruit, groves and forests so well disposed that DETROIT AND MILWAUKEE RAILROAD AND STEAMSHIP LINE. 65 one would think that Nature alone could not have made, without the help of art, so charming a prospect." COMPARATIVE PURITY OP DETROIT RIVER WATER. The following Table shows the solid matter in a gallon of water, taken from Lakes and Rivers in different cities ; Alttenv, Hudson River 0.320 'JYoy, Mohawk Kiver 7.880 Boston. Cochituate Lake 1.850 New York, Cr<»ton Kiver 6.J)9S Brooklyn, L. L Ponds 2.367 Philadcdphia, Schuylkill R 4.260 Cincinnati, Ohio River 6.7-36 Lake Ontario 4.160 Detroit, Detroit River 5.722 Cleveland, Lake Erie 6.000 Montreal, St, Lawrence R 5.000 Of the Detroit River water, Prof. Douglass, in his report of the analysis, says : " In estimating the value of your city water, as compared with other cities, due allowance must be made for the fact, that the total solid matter is materially increased by the presence of silica, alumina, and iron, elements that can produce little or no injury ; while the chlorides, much the most injurious com- pounds, are entirely absent. The pres- ence of such large quantities of silica and iron is accounted for by the fact that Lakes Superior and Huron are formed, for the most part, in a basin of ferruginous sandstone and igneous rock." NoTK. — The purity of the waters of Lake Superior, probabl}'^ e.xceeds all other bodies of water on the face of the globe, affording a cool and delightful beverage at all seasons. Coiiipariitive Increase of Lake Cities. 1S40. Bttffalo, New York 18,213 Chicago, 111 4,470 Cleveland, Ohio .. 6,071 Detroit, Mich.. ^.... 9,102 Erie, Penn MiLWAUKEK, Wis 1,700 Orwego, New York Raoine, Wis Sandusky. Ohio 1,434 Toledo, Ohio 1,222 * Black I^ock annexed. + Ohio City annexe4t 21,019 45,619 5,858 9.419 20.061 45.254 12,205 16,817 5.107 10,000 6,008 8,408 3,829 13,768 DETROIT AND MILWAUKEE RAILROAD AND STEAMSHIP LINE, CONNECTING WITH THE GREAT LINES OF TRAVEL EAST AND WEST. On leaving the Railroad Depot at De- troit the line of this road runs in a north- west direction to PoNTiAC, 26 miles, pass- ing through a rich section of farming country. The route then continues westerly to Fentonville, 24 miles further, where commences a railroad route, running through Flinty and extending north to Saginaiv^ favorably situated on Saginaw river. It is intended to continue the Flint and Fere Marquette Railroad, some 150 miles, to the shore of Lake Michigan. OwASSO, 78 miles from Detroit, and 110 miles from Grand Haven, is an impor- tant station, from whence a railroad extends southwest to Lansing, the capital of the State of Michigan. It is intended to car- ry the line of this road north to Saginaw City, and from thence northwest to Traverse Bay on Lake Michigan, where is a good harbor. From Owasso, the Detroit and Mil- waukee Railroad runs westward through St. John's, Ionia, and other stations, pass- ing down the valley of the Grand River, a rich and populous section of country, producing large quantities of wheat and other agricultural productions, all of which find a ready sale in the Eastern markets. 68 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. " Up in the northern part of the Grand River Valley, and along and beyond the Muskegen River, an immense amount of pine timber is to be found, giving profit- able employment to a large number of lumbermen." Oraiicl Rapid<«, 158 miles west of Detroit, and forty miles above Crrand Haven, an incorporated city, is favorably situated on both banks of Grand River, where is a fall of about eighteen feet, afibrding an immense water-power. Steamers run from this place daily to Grand Haven, connecting with steamers for Milwaukee, Chicago, and other ports on Lake Michigan. Here is an active population of about 10,000, and rapidly increasing, surrounded by a new, fertile, and improving country, being ahke famous as a wheat and fruit region. The city now contains a court-house and jail ; 6 churches ; 5 hotels ; 60 stores of different kinds ; 3 grist-mills ; 5 saw- mills ; 3 cabinet- ware factories ; 2 machine- shops, and other manufacturing establish- ments. The private dwellings and many of the stores are elegant edifices, con- structed of building material which is found in the inmiediate vicinity. Exten- sive and inexhaustible beds of gypsum are found near this place, producing large quantities of stucco and plaster, all of which find a ready sale in Eastern and Western markets. It is estimated that 25,000 tons of stucco for building, and plaster for fertilizing purposes, can be quarried and ground yearly from the different quarries in this vicinity. At the Eagle Mills, two miles below the city, is already formed an immense excavation, extending several hundred feet under ground, which is well worthy of a visit, where rich specimens of the gypsum can be obtained. Steamboat Route from Grand Rapids to Grand Haieii. Grand Rapids Eagle Plaster Mill 2 Grandville 5 7 Lament 13 20 EastmanviUe 2 22 Mill Point 16 38 Grand Haven 2 40 On leaving Grand Rapids for Grand Haven, hy railroad, the route extends north of the river, through a fertile section of country, mostly covered by a heavy growth of hardwood, although the pine predominates as you approach the lake shore. Grand Haven, Ottawa Co., Mich., is situated on both sides of Ot- tawa River, near its entrance into Lake Michigan, here eighty-five miles wide ; on the opposite side lies Milwaukee, Wis- consin. The different settlements, com-, prising Grand Haven, contain about 3,000 inhabitants. Here are a court-house and jail ; 3 churches ; six hotels and taverns, and a number of stores and warehouses ; 8 large steam saw-mills, pail and tub factories, a foundry and machine-shop, and other manufacturing establishments. Steamers and sail vessels run from Grand Haven, which has a well-protected harbor, to Milwaukee, Chicago, and other ports on Lake Michigan, carrying a large amount of produce and lumber. The fisheries in this vicinity are also pro- ductive and extensive. The sand hills on the east shore of Lake Michigan rise from 100 to 200 feet, pre- senting a sterile appearance, although the land in the interior is very rich and pro- ductive. TRIP FROM DETROIT TO MACKINAC, GREEN BAY, ETC. 67 Trip acro.^s Lle Republic will be benefited. 83 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. faasmnch as it will afford facilities to the far West, and the eastern portions of our ■wide-extended country. Like the Erie canal, it will even tend to lessen the price of provisions in foreign markets, and at the same time strengthen and enrich our own people, North and South, notwith- standing the latter are now in open rebel- lion." "A late writer remarks, 'Chicago is most emphatically the city of the West; for when any town can justly claim to be the greatest market for grain, beef, pork, and lumber in the world, then we may confidently believe that all else that en- ters into the composition of a great city will gather there to build up, if not the greatest, one of the most important cities of the continent.' " The Illinois and Michigan Canal, con- necting Lake Michigan with Illinois Eiv- er, which is sixty feet wide at the top, 6 feet deep, and 107 miles in length, includ- ing five miles of river navigation, termi- nates here, through which is brought a large amount of produce from the south and southwest; and the numerous rail- roads radiating from Chicago add to the vast accumulation which is here shipped for the Atlantic sea-board. Chicago being within a short distance of the most exten- sive coal-fields to be found in Illinois and the pineries of Michigan and Wisconsin, as well as surrounded by the finest grain region on the face of the globe, makes it the natural outlet for the varied and rich produce of an immense section of fertile country. 1 The Great Lake Tunnel at Chicago, for the supply of pure water, has already been nearly finished. 4. Chicago. Fvlton, a-nd 7(?if a (finished) 249 5. CJiicaf/o and North-Western (Chicago to Green Bay)... 242 6. Chiciigo and JliluavAee 85 7. Cinciyinati and Chicario Air Line 280 8. GaleiKt and Chicago Union* (Chicago to Freeport) 121 9. Jllinoifi Centiali (Chicago to Cairo) 365 10. Michigan Ce^Hral (Detroit to Chicago). . .284 11. Michigan Southern and Northern Indi- ana (Chicago to Toledo, Ohio) 243 12. Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne, and Chicago.. AGS * This road connects with the Illinois Central Railroad, running uestward to Dunleith, oppo- site Du Buque, Iowa. t Illinois Central Railroad and its Branches: Cairo to Lasalle, Main Line 308 MileSw Lasalle to Dunleith, Galena Branch 147 "• Chicago to Centralia, Chicago Branch.. 267 " Total length 722 Milea RAILROADS DIVERGING PROM CHICAGO. Miles. 1. Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis Hailroad. 2S1 2. Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy 268 8. Chicago and Eock Island 182 Distance§ from Chicago to Mackinac. Bunning along the West Sliore of Lake Michigan. Ports. Miles- Chicago to "Waukegan, III 35 Kenosha, Wis 16 51 liacine, Wis 11 62 Milwaukee, Wis 23 8^" Fort Washington, Wis 25 110 Sheboygan, Wis 25 135 Manitowoc, W^is 3t) 165 Two Rivers, Wis 7 172 Kewaunee, Wis 22 194 Anheepee, Wis 11 205 Bayleys Harbor 85 240 Death's Door 20 260 (To Green Bav 80 miles.) "Washington Harbor, Mich 13 273 Eock Island, Mich 7 280 Beaver Island, Mich 67 34T Pt. Waucoshance, Mich SO 377 Old Mackinac, Mich 15 392 Mackinac, Mich 8 400 Mackinac to De Tour Passage 3f De Tour to Saut Ste. Marie 56 Mackinac to St. Clair Kiver (Fort Gratiot) 240 Fort Gratiot to Detroit 60 Fort Gratiot to Saginaw City 150 Fort Gratiot to Goderich, C. W 60 NAVAL VESSELS ON THE LAKES. 83 NAVAL VESSELS ON THE LAKES. Mississippi and Lake Michigan Canal. A Report has recently been made in relation to the practicability, cost, and military and commercial advantages of opening a passage for gunboats and armed vessels from the Mississippi to the Lakes, by improving the navigation of the Illinois River, and enlarging the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The following is an extract from the above Report : " The Great Lakes and the Mississippi River are among the grandest features of the geography of the globe. Their names are at once suggestive of commercial and agricultural wealth and national great- ness. No such systems of internal navi- gation exist elsewhere in the world. Tlie most careful and accurate statements of their present uses for commercial pur- poses are truly wonderful, while the mag- nificent future to which enlightened enterprise may lead, tasks the strongest imagination. " The Mississippi system of navigable waters is variously estimated at from 10,000 to 20,000 miles. Its numerous ramifications penetrate a country of un- rivalled fertility, and in many parts abound- ing in useful metals. On the Lakes, we have a coast of 3,500 miles. Their com- merce is estimated at the value of $400, 000,000, 'in articles of prime necessity to the inhabitants of the Eastern States, and to our foreign commerce.' That of the Mississippi, in peaceful times, is sup- posed to equal this. It is the union of these two mighty systems that we con- template in the proposed improvement. "For this purpose no other route exists comparable to the line now proposed, in the economy of cost of the improvement, or in general utility. It is one of nature's highways — one of the hues which she marks out for the guidance of the great emigrant movements of the race, and by whicli topography foretells the march of empire. Tlie aboriginal savage travelled it by instinct, and now educated intelli- gence can find no better place for com- pleting and uniting linos of travel and traffic embracing half a continent." Estimate for a Ship and Steamboat Canal from Lake Michigan to the IDinois River, and the improvement of the Illinois River to the Mississippi River ; the canal to be 160 feet wide on the bottom, sides pro- tected with stone walls 10 feet high; the canal and river locks to be 350 feet long and TO feet wide, with depth of water sufficient to pass steamboats and vessels drawing six feet of water ; the canal to be supplied with water from Lake Michi- gan. Chicago to Lockport, 29 miles. The estimated cost of earth and rock excavation on the summit level from Ohicaco to Lockport, with walls on both sides 10 feet through the earth, is ." $7,092,700 Lockport to Lasalle, 67 miles : The e.stimated cost of canal to Lake Joliet, and short canals at 16 locks, walled on both -sides ; also six stone dams, 600 feet lonir, eleven canal and five river locks, each 850 feet lonj,' and 70 feet wide — mukin!,' loSfeet o! lock- ape between Lockport and Las.dle — is 4,081,008 Lasalle to the MississipiH liiver, 220 miles: The cost of seven tree and crib dams, 900 feet Ion?, the cribs to be filled with stone, and stone abutments; also seven stone locks. 850 feet long, and 70 feet wide, with entrances pro- tected, and insuring a depth of water on all bars, to jjass tlie largest class st»'ambnats and vessels drawing six feet, will be :. . . . 1,&45,000 Add for bridges, riglit of way, engineer- ing, contingencies, »fec 578,032 Total $13,8W,S24 84 TRIP TimOUGII THE LAKE". U. S. Naval Yessels on Lake Erie, 1812 TO 1815. Class. Guns. Where built, are shipped from this port. The country in the interior is fast set- tling with agriculturists, the soil and cli- mate being good. A railroad nearly com- pleted runs from this place to Fond du Lac, 42 miles west, lying at the head of Lake Winnebago. Maniiouwoc, Wis., 70 mQes north of Milwaukee and 33 miles east from Green Bay, is an important shipping port. It contains about 2,500 inhabitants; five churches, several public-houses, twelve stores, besides several storehouses ; three €team saw-mills, two ship-yards, light- house, aad pier. Large quantities of lum- ber are annually shipped from this port. The harbor is being improved so as to af- ford a refuge for vessels during stormy weather. " Manitouwoc is the most northern of the hai bors of Lake Michigan improved by the United States government. It de- rives additional impf)rtance from the fact that, when completed, it will afford the first point of refuge from storms for ship- ping bound from any of the other great lakes to this, or to the most southern ports of Lake Micliigan." Two Rivers, Wis., seven miles north from Manitouwoc, is a new and thriving place at the entrance of the conjoined streams (from which the place takes its name) into Lake Michigan. Two piers are here erected, one on each side of the river- also a ship-yard, an extensive leather manufacturing company, chair and pail factory, and three steam saw-miUs. The village contains about 2,000 inhabi- tants. Kewaunee, Wis., 25 miles north of Two Rivers and 102 miles from Milwaukee, is a small shipping town, where are situated several saw-mills and lumber establish- ments. Green Bay is situated about 25 miles due west from this place. Ahneepee, 12 miles north of Kewaunee, is a lumbering village, situated at the mouth of Ahneepee, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. The back country here assumes a wild appearance, the forest trees being mostly pine and hemlock. Gibraltar, or Bailey's Harbor, is a good natural port of refuge for sailing craft when overtaken by storms. Here is a settlement of some 400 or 500 inhabi- tants, mostly being engaged in fishing and lumbering. Port des Morts or Death's Door, the entrance to Green Bay, is passed 20 miles north of Bailey's Harbor, Detroit Island lying to the northward, Pottowatumee, or Washington Isl- and, is a fine body of land attached to the State of Michigan ; also. Rock Island, situated a short distance to the north. {See route to Green Bay, &c.). 88 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. On leaving Tiuo Rivers, tlio steamers passing through the Straits visually run for the Manitou Islands, Mich., a distance of about 100 miles. Soon after the last vestige of land sinks below the horizon on the west shore, the vision catches the dim outline of coast on the east or Michi- gan shore at Point aux Bee Scias, which is about 30 miles south of the Big Mani- tou Island. From this point, passing northward by Sleeping Bear Point, a sin- gular shaped headland looms up to the view. It is said to resemble a sleeping bear. The east shore of Lake Michigan presents a succession of high sand-banks for many miles, while inland are numer- ous small bays and lakes. Little, or South Manitou Island, 260 miles from Chicago, and 110 miles from Mackinac, hes on the Michigan side of the lake, and is the first island encoun- tered on proceeding northward from Chi- cago. It rises abruptly on the west shore 2 or 300 feet from the water's edge, sloping toward the east shore, on which is a light-house and a fine harbor. Here steamers stop for wood. Big or North Manitou is nearly twice as large as the former island, and contains about 14,000 acres of land. Both islands are settled by a few families, whose principal occu- pation is fishing and cutting wood for the use of steamers and sailing vessels. Fox Islands, 50 miles north from South Manitou, consist of three small islands lying near the middle of Lake Michigan, which is here about 60 miles wide. On the west is the entrance to Green Bay, on the ea-st is the entrance to Grand Trav erse Baj^, and immediately to the north is the entrance to Little Traverse Bay. Great and Little Beaver Islands lying about midway between the I^Ianitou Islands and Mackiuac. are large and fer tile bodies of land, formerly occupied by Mormons, who had here their most east' em settlement. Garden and HoG Islands are next pass ed before reaching the Strait of Mackinac^ which, opposite Old Fort Mackinac, is about six miles in width. The site of Old Fort Mackinac is on the south main or Michigan shore, directly opposite Point Ste. Ignace,on the north main shore. St. Helena Island lies at the entrance of the strait from the south, distant about fifteen miles from Mackinac. Old Fort Mackinac,* now called Mac- kinac City, is an important and interesting location ; it was formerly fortified and garrisoned for the protection of the strait and this section of country, when in- habited almost exclusively by various tribes of Indians. This place can be easily reached by sail-boat from the island of Mackinac. Pte. le Gros Cap, lying to the west of old Fort Mackinac, is a picturesque head- land well worthy of a visit. The Strait of Mackinac is from five to twenty miles in width, and extends east and west abor^; forty miles, embosom- ing several important islands besides Mackinac Island, the largest being Bois Blanc Island, lying near the head of Lake Huron. Between this island and the main north shore the steamer Garden City wa-s wrecked. May 16, 1854; her upper works were still visible from tlie deck of the passing steamer in the fall of the same year. Grosse Ile St. Martin and He St. Martin lie within the waters of the strait, eight or ten miles north of the island of Mackinac, In the neighborhood of these difierent islands are the favorite fishing- grounds both of the Indian and the " pale face." Mackinac, the Town and Fortress, is most beautifully situated on the east shore of the island, and extends for a distance of about one mile along the water's edge, and has a fine harbor protected by a * Settled by the French under Father Marquette in 1C70. FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAIT STE. MARIE. 89^ miles long, but not accurately delineated on iiny of the modern maps, which appear to be very deficient in regard to St. Mary's River and its many islands — presenting at several points most beautiful river scenery. In the St. Mary's River there 94 TRIP T KOUGH the LAKES. are about fifty islands belonging to the United States, besides several attached to Canada. Nebish Island, and Sailor^s Encamp- mertt, situated about half way from the Point to the Saut, are passed on the left while sailing througli the main channel. Sugar Island, a large body of fertile land belonging to the United States, is reached about 30 miles above Point de Tour, situated near the head of St. Joseph Island. On the right is passed the British or North Channel^ connecting on the east with Georgian Bay. Here are seen two small rock}' islands belonging to the Brit- ish Government, which command both channels of the river. The Nebish Rapids are next passed by the ascending vessel, the stream here run- ning about five knots per hour. The main- land of Canada is reached immediately above the rapids, being clothed with a dense growth of forest-trees of small size. To the north is a dreary wilderness, ex- tending through to Hudson Bay, as yet almost wholly unexplored and unknown, except to the Indian or Canadian hunter. Lake George, twenty miles below the Saut, is another expansion of the river, being about five miles wide and eight miles long. Here the channel is only from eight to ten feet in depth for about one mile, forming a great impediment to naviga- tion.* Church's Landing, on Sugar Island, twelve miles below the Saut, is a steam- boat landing; opposite it is Squirrel Island, belonging to the Canadians. This is a convenient landing, where are situated a store and dwelling. Tlie industrious occupants are noted for the making of raspherrtj jam, which is sold in large quan- tities, and shipped to Eastern and Southern markets. Garden River Settlement is an Indian • A new channel h.is been formed, by dredging, which gives a greater depth of water. village ten miles below the Saut, on the Canadian shore. Here are a missionary church and several dwellings, surrounded by grounds poorly cultivated, fishing and hunting being the main employment of the Chippewa Indians who inhabit this section of country. Both sides of the river abound in wild berries of good flavor, which are gathered in large quantities by the Indians, during the summer months. Extract from a letter dated Saut Ste Marie, Sept., 1854: "The scenery of the St. Mary's River seems to grow more attractive every year. There is a delicious freshness in the count- less evergreen islands that dot the river in every direction, from the Falls to Lake Huron, and I can imagine of no more tempting retreats from the dusty streets of towns, in summer, than these islands; I beheve the time will soon come when neat summer cottages will be scattered along the steamboat route on these charming islands. A summer could be delightfully spent in exploring for new scenery and in fishing and sailing in these waters. " And Mackinac, what an attractive little piece of terra firma is that island — half ancient, half modern ! The view from the fort is one of the finest in the world. Perched on the brink of a precipice some two hundred feet above the bay — one takes in at a glance from its walls the har- bor, with its numerous boats and the pretty village ; and the whole rests on one's vision more like a picture than a reality. Every thing on the island is a curiosity ; the roads or stieets that wind around the har- bor or among the grove-like forests of the island are naturally pebbled and macadam- ized; the buildings are of every st^'le, from an Indian lodge to a fine English house. The island is covered with chaini- ing natural scenery, from the pretty to the grand, and one may spend weeks con- stantly finding new objects of interest and new scenes of beauty. It is unnecessary to particularize — every visitor will find FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE. MARIE. 95 them, and enjoy the sight more than any description. " The steamers all call there, on their ■vvay to and from Chicago, and hundreds of small sail vessels, in the tishing trade, have here their head-quarters. Drawn upon the pebbled beach or gliding about the little bay are bark canoes and the far- famed 'Mackinac boats,' without num- ber. These last are the perfection of light sail-boats, and I have often been astonished at seeing them far out in the lake, beating up against winds that were next to gales. Yesterday the harbor was thronged with sail boats and vessels of every description, among the rest were the only two iron steamers that the Uni- ted States have upon all the lakes, the 'Michigan' and the 'Surveyor,' formerly called the ' Abert,' employed in the Coast Survey. "For a wonder. Lake Haron was calm and at rest for its entire length, and the steamer 'Northerner' made a beautiful and quick passage from Mackinac to this place. The weather continues .• aim and dry, and hundreds are regretting they have so early left the Saut and Mackinac, and we believe you will see crowds of visitors yet. Jay." the entrance. Potagannis' sivg Bay, dotted with nu- merous small islands, most- ly belonging to the United States, is seen lying to the eastward, communicating ^■^^ with the North Chan- Mud Lake, 6 miles nel. ^ St. Mary's River. By a careful examina- tion of the Government Charts of the Straits of Mackinac and River Ste. Marie, published in 1 857, it appears that the Point Be Tour Light- House is situated in 45° 57' N. Lat., being 36 miles to the eastward of Fort Mackinac. The width of the De Tour passage is about one mile, with a depth of water of 100 feet and upwards, although but 50 feet is 'found off" the light, as you run into Lake Huron. Drummond Island, attached to the United States, lies on the east, while the main shore of Michigan lies to the west of the entrance. Pipe Island, 4 miles, is first passed on ascending the stream, and then Lime Island, 6 miles further. St. Joseph's Island, with its old fort, attached to Canada, lies 8 miles from I further, is next entered, having an ex- panse of about 4 miles in width, when Sailor's Encampment Island is reached, being 20 miles from Lake Huron. The head of St. Joseph's and part of Sugar Island are reached 26 miles northward from the De Tour, where diverges the Canadian or North Channel, running into the Georgian Bay; this channel is fol- lowed by the Canadian steamers. The Nebish Papids are next passed, and Lake George entered, 6 miles further, being 32 miles from Lake Huron. This lake or ex- pansion of the river is 9 miles m length and 4 miles broad, affording 12 feet of water over the shoals and terminating at ChurcKs Landing, lying opposite Squir- rel Island, attached to Canada. Garden River Settlement, 3 miles, is an Indian town on the Canada side. Little Lake George is passed aiid Point Anx Pins reached, 3 miles further. From Little 96 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Lake George to the Saut Ste. 3farie, pas- sing around the head of Sugar Island, is 8 miles further, being 55 miles from Lake Huron. The Rapids, or Ship Canal, ex- tend for about t»ne mile, overcoming a fall of 20 feet, when a beautiful stretch of the river is next passed and Waiska Bay entered, 6 miles above the rapids; making the St. Mary's River 62 miles in length. The channel forming the boundar}^ line between Canada and the United States is followed by the ascending steamer from the lower end of St. Joseph's Island to Lake Superior, while a more direct pas- sage is afforded for vessels of light draught through Hay Lake, hing west of Sugar Island and entering Mud Lake. Notliing can be more charming than a trip over these ■waters, when sailing to or from the Straits of Mackinac, thus having in view rich and varied lake and river scenerv, once the exclusive and favored abode of the red man of the forest, now fast pass- ing away before the march of civilization. §aiit Ste. Marie,* capital of Chip- pewa Co., Mich., is advantageously situated on St. Mary's River, or Strait, 350 miles N.N.W. of Detroit, and 15 miles from the foot of Lake Superior, in N. lat. 46"" 31'. The Rapids at this place, givinor the name to the settlements on both sides of the river, have a descent of 20 feet within the distance of a mile, and form the natural limit of navigation. The Ship Canal, how- ever, which has recently been constructed on the American side, obviates this diffi- culty. Steamers of a large class now pass through the locks into Lake Superior, • Settled in 1668, by the French. greatly facilitating trade and commerce. The village on the American side is pleas- antly situated near the foot of the rapids, and contains a court-house and jail; a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic church ; 2 hotels, and 15 or 20 stores and storehouses, besides a few manufacturing establishments, and about 1,200 inhabitants. Many of the inhabi- tants and Indians in the vicinity are en- gaged in the fur trade and fisheries, the latter being an important and profitable occupation. Summer visitors flock to this place and the Lake Superior country for health and pleasure. The Chippewa House^ a well kept hotel on the American side, and one on the Canadian side of the river, both aflTord good accommodations. Fort Brady is an old and important United States military post contiguous to this frontier village, where are barracks for a full garrison of troops. It commands the St. Mary's River and the approach to the mouth of the canal. Saut Ste. Marie, C. "W., is a scattered settlement, where is located a part of the Hudson Bay Company. Here is a steam- boat landing, a hotel, and two or three stores, including the Hudson Bay Com- pany's; and it has from 500 to 600 in- habitants. Indians of the Chippewa tribe reside in the vicinity in considerable num- bers, they having the exclusive right to take fish in the waters contiguous to the rapids. They also employ themselves in running the rapids in their frail canoes, when desired by citizens or strangers — this being one of the most exhilarating en- joyments for those fond of aquatic sports. [See Engraving.) I ,1 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. 07 St. I?Iary'«i Falls Ship Caaial. This Canal, which connects the naviga- tion of Lake Superior with the Lower Lakes, is one mile in length, and coat about one million dollars. It was built in the years 1853, '54, '55, hy the Saint Mary's Falls Ship Canal Com- pany, under a contract witli commission- ers appointed by the authorities of the State of Micliigan to secure the building of the canaL A grant of 750.000 acres of the public land had previously been made by Con- press to the State of Michigan, to aid in tlie construction of this important work. This grant of 750,060 acres was given to the parties contracting for the budding of the canal, provided the work should be completed within two years from the date of tlio contract. The w'ork was commenced in the spring of 1853, and completed within the time specilied in the contract {two years!). Tliis result was accomplished under many disadvantages, during a very sickly season, and when great difficulty was ex- perienced in obtaining laborers; but tlie unreniittiug vigor of those who had the charge of the work secured its completion in tlio most substantial, permanent, and acceptable manner. During a great portion of tlie time there were from 1,200 to 1,<;00 men employed upon tiie work, exclusive of the force at the diflerent quarries where the stone was cut and i)repared for the locks, beside a large force employed in necessary agen- cies, getting timber, etc. The stones for the locks were cut at Auderden, Canada (near Maiden), and at Marblchead, near Sandusky, in Ohio. These were sent in vessels to the work, some twenty-five d'lflerent sailing vessels being emi)loyed in this business. On tlie completion of the canal in June, 185 5, the governor of the State, the State officers, and the Canal Commissioners pro- ceeded to Saut Ste. Marie for the purpose of inspectuig the work. It was accepted, and thereupon, in accordance with the terms of the contract, the State author- ities released to the Canal Company and issued patents for the 750,000 acres of land. This was all the remuneration the company received tor the work. The lands were selected during tho building of the canal, by agents ap- pointed by the governor of Michigan. Of tlie 750,000 acres, 39,000 acres were selected in the iron region of Lake Su- perior, 147, 000 acrres in tlie copper region, and the balance, 504,000 acres, in tho Lower Peninsula. The following figures will give some idea of tlie magnitude of this work : Length of canal, 5,548 feet, = 1 mile 304 feet. Width at top, 115 feet — at water-line, 100 feet — at bottom, G4 feet. The depth of the canal is 12 feet. A slope wall on the sides of the canal is 4,000 feet in length. There are two locks, each 350 feet in length. Width of locks, 70 feet at top— 61 J feet at bottom. Tho walls are 25 feet high — 10 feet thick at bottom. Lift of upper lock, 8 feet — lower do., 10 feet; total lockage, 18 fix't. Lower wharf, ISOfeetlong; 20feetwide, Upper wharf, 830 feet long; from 16 to 30 feet wide. There are :'> pairs of folding gates, each 40 feet wide. Upper gate, 17 feet high — ^lower gate, 24 feet iuclies high. There are also upper and lower caisson gates, used for shutting off the water from the onal. The amount of lumber, timber, and iron used in the building of the piers and gates is enormrnis. There were 103,437 lbs. of wrought iron used in the gates, and 38,000 lbs. cast iron. 98 FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. About 8,000 feet of oak timber, etc. The tolls on the canal are collected by the State — are merely nominal — and only intended to defray the necessary expenses of repairs. The St. Mary's Falls Ship Canal, Michigan, now forms a navigable com- munication between Lake Superior and Huron, passing through the St. Mary's River for a distance of about 60 miles. The first Steamer which passed through the locks was the Illinois, 927 tons, commanded by John Wilson, on her trip through to the upper ports on Lake Su- perior, June 18, 1855, The Illinois was followed by the Steamer Baltimore, 514 tons; Samuel Ward, 434 tons; and the North Star, 1,100 tons, during the month of June of the same year. Opening and Closing op Navigation, from 1855 to 1862, inclusive. Date. First Vessel. June 18, 1865 Illinois, May 4, 1856 Manhattan, May 9, 1867 North Stai; April IS. 1858 Iron Gitv, May 3, 1859 Lady Elgin, May 11, 1860 Fonntaiu City, Mav 3, 1861 Michigan, April 27, 1862 City of Cleveland, April 28, 1863 Mineral Rock, 927 tons 820 1* 1,100 u. 600 n 1,038 " 820 l( 642 u 788 " 565 t. 674 Ik Date. Last VesseL Nov, 23, 1855 Planet, Nov. 28, 1856 Gen. Taylor, Nov. 30, 1857 Mineral Rock, Nov. 20, 1868 Lady Elgin, Nov. 28, 1869 Forester, Nov. 22, I860 Montffotnery, Nov. 28, 1861 Gen. Taylor, Nov. 27, 1862 Mineral Rock, Nov. 20, 1863 Meteor, 1,164 ton*. 462 t. 555 u 1,038 u 384 " 879 u. 462 " 555 M 729 U. May 2, 1SG4 Cleveland, Average season of navigation, 6^ months. Rate.of Tolly 6 cents for every registered ton, for every description of vesaeL TABLE OF DISTANCES From Toronto to Colli iigvvood and Saiit Ste, Marie. Toronto to Collingwood {Railroad Route), 94 miles. Steamboat Route. (Collingwood to Saut Ste. Marie, Mich., passing through Georgian Bay and North Channel.) Ports, etc. Miles. Collingwood Cape Rich 30 CaViot's Head 80 Lonely Island 100 Cape Smyth 125 i>ht-ha-ti:a-na}i-ning 145 Man-i-tou-wah-ning (25 m.) Littlti Current, \ ,w„ Croat Manitoulin Is Clappertcn Island .\ 190 Ports, etc. Miles. Saut Ste. Marie Sugar Island 4 Garden River Set 10 Chnrcli's Landivg 14 Lake George 20 Nebish Rapids 24 St. Joseph Island 25 The Narrows 35 Camperaent D'Ours Is 38 Bruce Mines 50 FROM TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD AND SALT STE. MARIE. 99 Ports, etc. Miles. Barrie Island 220 Cockburn Island 255 ])rnmniond's Island, Mich 270 7?r?ic« Mines, C. W. 290 St. Joseph Island 2!)6 Tampement D'Ours Is 302 The Narrows 305 Sugar Island, Mich 315 Nebish Rapids 316 Lake George 320 Church's Landing 326 Garden River Set 330 Saut Ste. Marie 340 Steamboat Fare, $8 50. Including meals. Ports, etc. Miles, Drummond's Island, Mich 'iO Cockburn Island, C. W 85 Barrie Island 120 Clapperton Island I^jO Little Curreiit ) y^^ Great Manitoulin Is. \ Man-i-tou-wah-ning (25 m.) She-ba-iva-nah-ning 1^5 Cape Smyth 215 Lonely Island 240 Cabot's Head 200 Cape Rich 310 COLLINGWOOD 340 Note. Usual Time, 36 hours. -Landings in Italic. CollillgM''OOd, 94 miles north from Toronto, is most advantageously situated near the head of Nottawassaga Bay, an indentation of Georgian Bay. The town, although commenced in 1S54, at the time of the completion of the Ontario, Simcoe, and Huron Railroad, now contains (1861) about 2,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly in- creasing. The surprising growth is main- ly owing to its being the northern termi- nus o"f the railway which connects the Georgian Bay with Lake Ontario at Toronto. Great numbers of travellers and emigrants are at this point transferred to steamers or propellers, bound for Mackinac, Green Bay, Chicago, and the Great West, as well as to tlie Saut Ste. Marie and Lake Superior. Here are a long pier, 800 feet in length; a breakwater, and light-house; several large stores and storehouses; four hotels, and two or three churches in the course of erection. The steamers leaving CoUingwood for Mackinac and Chicago, running along the west shore of Lake Michigan, are of a large class, affording good accommodations for travellers. Steamers run every day to Owen's Sound, 50 miles distant; and weekly to Bruce Mines, the Saut Ste. Ma- rie, and into Lake Superior, affordmg a delightfid steamboat excursion. Immense quantities of fish are taken in the waters of Nottawassaga Bay, being principally carried to tlie Toronto market. The whole north shore of the Georgian Bay abounds in white fish, salmon, tKout, maskalonge, and other fish of fine quality, affording profitable employment to the Canadians and Indians. " Some idea of the value and extent of the fishing operations promiscuously pur- sued in Nottawassaga Bay may be formed from the knowledge that the average daily take exceeds one thousand fish, weighing from forty pounds down to one pound. At this rate, that of the season would not faU short of £40,000. At the mouth of the Nottawassaga River the white fish are netted in perfect shoals throughout the spawning season. Most of the larger kind of trout spawn about the islands upon beds of calcareous rock, over which a shifting drift of sand or gravel passes by the action of the wi?ves, 1X)0 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. where the water is shallow; and from being exposed to the sun, tlie temperature of the lake is warmer at these locaHties than elsewhere. Thither the fishermen resort, and net the fish, vapid and placid as they are, in fabulous amounts." GEORGIAN BAY. The deeply romantic character of this pure and lovely body of water is almost unknown to the American public — lying as it does to the northeast of Lake Huron, being entirely within the confines of Canada. The northeast shore is the most romantic and highly interesting, from the fact of there being innumerable islands and islets along the coast, greatly exceed- ing in number the " Thousand Islands" of the St. Lawrence. From Penetanguishene, northeast to She-ba-wa-nah-ning, where commences the picturesque body of water known as the Korth Channel, there is one continued suc- cession of enchanting scenery. Here the wild fowl, fur-bearing game, and the finny tribe disport in perfect freedom, being as yet far removed from the busy haunts of civilization. Georgian Bay is nearly as large as Lake Ontario, while the North Channel, connect- ing with St. Mary's River on the west, may be said to be as large as Long Island Sound, dotted with a large number of love- ly islands, while to the south lies the romantic island of the Great Manitoulin, and on the north rises La Cloche Mountain — altogether forming the most grand and romantic scenery. ROUTE FROM COLLINGWCOD, C. W., TO THE SAUT STE. MARIE. THROUGH GEORGIAN JBAY AND NORTH CHANNEL. This is a new and highly interesting steamboat excursion, brought into notice by the completion of the Ontario, Simcoe, and Huron Railroad, extending from Toronto to CoUingwood, at the southern e-vtremity of Georgian Bay. NottawassagaBay, the southern termi- nation of Georgian Bay, is a large expanse of water bounded by Cape Rich on the west, and Christian Island on the east, each being distant about 30 miles from CoUing- wood. At the south end of the bay lies a small group of islands called the Hen and Chickens. Christi.\n Island, lying about 25 miles from Penetanguishene, and 25 milesnorth- east of Cape Rich, is a large and fertile island, which was early settled by the Jesuits. There are several others passed north of Christian Island, of great beauty, while still farther northwest are encoun- tered innumerable islands and islets, form- ing labyrinths, and secluded passages and coves as yet almost unknown to the white man, extending westward for upward of one hundred miles. Penetanguishene, C. "U^, 50 miles north of CoUingwood by steamboat route, situated on a lov«ly and secure bay, is an old and very important settlement, com- prising an Episcopal and Roman Catholic church, two hotels, a custom-house, severa ROUTE FROM COl.MNGWOOD TO SAUT 8TE MARIE. 101 stores and gtorehouses, and has about 500 inhabitants. In the immediate vicinity are a naval and military depot and barracks, established by the British govetiimcnt. The natural beauties of the bay and har- bor, combined with the picturesque scenery of the shores, make up a picture of rare beauty. Here may be seen tlie native Indian, the half-breed, and the Canadian Voycigeur, with the full-blooded Enij;lishraan or Scotchman, forming one community. Tins place, being near the mouth of the River Severn, and contiguous to the numberless islands of Georgian Bay, is no doubt destined to become a favorite resort for the angler and sports- m in, as well as for the invalid and seeker of pleasure. On leaving OoUingioood for Bruce Mines and the Saut Ste. Marie, the steamer usually runs direct across Georgian Bay to I^onely Island, passing Cabot's Head to the right, and the passage leading into the broad waters of Lake Huron, wliich is the route pursued by the steamers in the voyage to Mackinac, Green Bay, and Ch'cago. During the summer months the trip from Collingwood to Mackinac and Chicago aftbrds a delightful excursion. 0w2n's Sound, or Sydenham, 50 miles west of Collingwood, although off the direct route to the Saut Ste. Marie, is well wortliy of a passing notice. Here is a thriving settlement, surrounded by a fertile section of country, and containing about 2,500 inhabitants. A steamer runs daily from Collingwood to this place, which wiU, no doubt, soon be readied by liilroad. Lonely Island, situated about 100 miles west of Collingwood and 20 miles east of the Groat Manitoulin Islands, is a large body of land mostly covered with a dense forest, and uninhabited, except by a few tisliermen, who resort here at certain seasons, of the year for the purpose of taking fish of different kinds. The steam- er usually passes this i.sland on its north side, steering for Cape Smyth, a bold promontory jutting out from the Great Manitoulin, and distant from Lonely Island about 25 miles. Squaw Island and Papoose Island are seen on the northeast, while farther inland are the Fox Islands, being the com- mencement on the west of the innumera- ble islands which abound along the north shore of Georgian Bay. La Cloche Mountains, rising about 2,000 feet above the sea, are next seen in the distance, toward the north ; these, com- bined with the wild scenery of the islands and headlands, form a grand panoramic view, enjoyed from the deck of the passing steamer. Smyth's Bay is passed on the west, some eight or ten miles distant. At the head of this bay, on the great Manitoulin island, are situated a village of Indians, and a Jesuit's mission, called We-qua-me- kong. Tliese aborigines are noted for their industry, raising wheat, corn, oats, and potatoes in large quantities. This part of the island is very fertile, and the climate is healthy. She-ba-wa-nah-ning, signifying, in the Indian dialect, "i/e/e is a Clamntl,'' is a most charming spot, 40 miles distant from Lonely Island, hemmed in by mountains on the north and a high rocky island on the south. It is situated on the north side of a narrow channel, about half a mile in length, which has a great depth of water. Here are a convenient steamboat landing, a church, a store, and some ten or twelve dwellings, inliabited by Cana- dians and half-breeds. Indians assemble here often in considerable numbers, to sell their tish and furs, presenting with their canoes and dogs a very grotesque appear- ance. One resident at this landing usual- ly attracts much attention — a noble dog, of the color of cream. No sooner does the steamer's bell ring, than this animal rushes to the wharf, sometimes assisting to secure the rope that is thrown ashore j 102 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. the next move he makes \a to board the vessel, as though he wtre a custom-hoiise otlicer ; but on one occasion, in his, eager- ness to get into the kitchen, he fell over- board ; nothing daunted, he swam to the shore, and then agfiin boarding the vessel, succeeded in his desire to fill his stomach, showing the instinct which prompts many a biped office-seeker. On leaving She^ba-wa-nah-ning and pro- ceeding westward, a most beautiful bay is passed, studded with islands ; and moun- tains upwards of 1,000 feet in height, pre- senting a rocky and sterile appearance, form an appropriate background to the view ; thence are passed Badgley and Ileywood Islands, the latter lying ofl" Hey- wood Sound, situated on the north side of the Great Manitoulin. Max-i-tou-wah-ning, 25 miles north- west of She-ba-w^a-nah-ning, is handsome- ly situated at the head of Heywood Sound. It is an Indian settlement, and also a government agency, being the place annually selected to distribute the Indian annuities. Little Current, 25 miles westof She- ba-wa-nah-ning, is another interesting landing oa the north shore of the Great Manitoulin, opposite La Cloche Island. Here the main channel is narrow, with a current usually running at the rate of five or six knots an hour, being much affected by the winds. The steamer stops at this landing for an hour or upward, receiving a supply of w^ood, it being furnished by an intelligent Indian or half-breed, who resides at this place with his family. In- dians are often seen here in considerable numbers. They are reported to be indo- lent and harmless, too often neglecting tliC cultivation of the soil for the more uncertain pursuits of fishing and hunting, although a considerably large clearing is to bo seen indiflerently cultivated. Clapperton Island and other islands of less magnitude are passed in the Xorth Oiannd, wliich is a large body of water about 120 miles long and 25 miles wide- On the north shore is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company, which may be seen from the deck of the passing steamer. CocKBURN Island, 85 miles west of Little Current lies directly west of the Great Manitoulin, from which it is sepa- rated by a narrow channel. It is a large island, somewhat elevated, but uninhabit- ed, except by Indians. Drummond Island, 15 miles farther westward, belongs to the United States, being attached to the State of Michigan. This is another large body of land, being low\ and as yet mostly uninhabited. The next Island approached before landing at Bruce Mines is St. Joseph Is- land, being a large and fertile body of land, with some few settlers. Bruce Mines Village, C. W., is situ- ated on the north shore of Lake Huron, or the "North Channel," as it is here called, distant 290 miles from Collingwood, and 50 from the Saut Ste. Marie. Here are a Methodist chapel, a public-house, and a store and storehouse belonging to the Montreal Copper Mining Company, besides extensive buildings used for crush- ing ore and preparing it for the market ; about 75 dwellings and 600 inhabitants. The copper ore, after being crushed by powerful machinery propelled by steam, is put into puddling troughs and w^ashed by water, so as to obtain about 20 per cent, pure copper. In this state it is shipped to the Ignited States and England, bringing about $80 per ton. It then has to go through an extensive smelting pro- cess, in order to obtain the pure metal. The mines are situated in tlie immediate vicinity of the village, there being ten openings or shafts from which the ore is obtained in its crude state. Horse-power is mostly used to elevate the oie; the whims are above ground, attached to which are ropes and buckets. This mine gives employment to about 300 workmen. TRIP FROM COLLINGWOOD TO PORT WILLIAM. 103 The capital stock of the company amounts to :^600,00(). The Wellington Mim^ about one mile dis- tuat, is also owned l>y the Montreal Min- ing Company, but is leased and worked by an English company. This mine, at the present time, is more productive than the Bruce Mines. The Lake Superior Journal gives the following description of the Bruce Mine, from which is produced a copper ore dif- fering from that which is yielded by other mines of that peninsula. "Ten years ago this mine was opened, and large sums expended for machinery, which proved useless, but it is now un- der new management, and promises to yield profitably. Twelve shafts have been opened, one of which has been carried down some 330 feet. Some 200 or 300 men are emplo3'ed, all from the European mines. Some of the ores are very beauti- ful to the eye, resembling fine gold. After being taken out of the shaft, they are taken upon a rail-tract to the crushing- house, where they are passed between large iron rollers, and sifted till only a tine powder remains; from thence to the ■jigger- works,' where they are sbaken in water till much of the earthy matter is washed away, after which it is piled in the yard ready for shipment, having more the appearance of mud than of copper. It is now mostly shipped to Swansea, in Wales, for smelting. Two years since, 1,500 tons were shipped to Baltimore and Buffalo to be smelted." On resuming the voyage after leaving Bruce Mines, the steamor runs along St. Joseph Island through a beautiful sheet of water, in which are embosomed some few islands near the main shore. Gampement D'Ours is an island passed on the left, lying contiguous to St. Joseph Island. Here are encountered several small rocky islands, forming an intricate channel called the " Narrows.'' On somo of the islands in this group are found cop- per ore, and beautiful specimens of moss. The forest-trees, however, are of a dwarf- ish growth, owing, no doubt, to the scant- iness of soil on these rocky islands. About 10 miles west of the " Narrows," the main channel of the St. Mary's Riv- er is reached, forming the boundary be- tween the United States and Canada. A rocky island lies on the Canadian side, which is reserved for government pur- poses, as it commands the main or ship channeL Sugar Island is now reached, which belongs to the United States, and the steamers run a further distance of 25 miles, when the landing at the Saut Ste. Ma- rie is reached, there being settlements on both sides of the river. The British boats usually land on the north side, whUe the American boats make a landing on the south side of the river, near the mouth of the ship canaL TRIP FROM COLLINGWOOD TO FORT WILLIAM, C. W. The First Trip op the Steamer Rescue. '* To the Editor of the Toronto Globe. " Sir : As you have on all occasions taken a prominent part in advocating the opening up of the Hudson's Bay Territory and the North Shore of Lake Superior, I send you a log journal of the first cruise of the Steamer Rescue^ Captain James Dick, from Collingwood to Fort William. On this trip, she fairly maintained her previous reputation ; for in a heavy gale of wind on the beam for many hours, between Mich- ipicolien Island and Fort William, she made her 10^ miles per hour, and, during the gale, was" steady, and free from any 104 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. unpleasant motion. We left Collingwood at 10.30 A. M., on the 12th July, 1858, Captain Kennedy in charge of the mails, for Red River. \\'e passed Cabot's Head at 6.30 p. M.; Cove Island light, at 9 P. M. (merely a lantern on the top of the tower, vi><"',le about two miles on a clear night) ; passed between tlie middle and western iJut'k Islands at 4 a.m., at easy steam, so as to enter tlie Missisaga Straits in day- light ; at 11.20 A.M., ran alongside the wharf at i^rwce J// nes; landed n^ails, and wooded. Under the kind supervision of Mr. Davidson we inspected the process of e.xtracting copper ore from the bowels of the eartli. We found that it contained 4 per cent, at the moutli of the pit, and 25 per cent, barrelled up in the form of paste. Sometime ago, tlie Montreal Mining Com- pany (owning the Bruee Mines), leased half their location to the Wellington Min- ing Company. There are, in consequence, within one mile, separated by a small island, two establishments, forming one considerable town. Arrived at Saut Ste. Marie, Pim's wharf (British side), at 7 p. M. ; landed mails, and ran over to the American side fur coals. At 6 a. m., on the 14th, entered the ship-canal, paying six cents per ton lockage dues. Mr. Simp- son, of the Hudson's Bay Company, very politely sent with us the Captain of their schooner to pilot us throug-h to Pine Point, where we engag-ed his son-in-law, Alex. Clark, as pilot. "Passed White Fish Point, Lake Su- perior, at 10 o'clock A. M., Caribou Island at 4.30 o'clock p. m. This island was so- caUed, from the circumstance of Captain McHargo, wiio accompanied Bayiield in his survey, having on one occasion killed 60 Caribous on it. At 6 P. M., we were close to ' Rescue' Harbor, Island of Mi- chipicoten. The harbor at Michipicoten is described by the pilot, who has l>een 15 years on the lake, as superb, and is so laid down by Bayfield. The island is about IG miles by 6, covered with sprisce, fir, birch, ash and maple, the latter grow- ing on elevated ground. There are sever- al lakes upon it, full of speckled trou* ; the bay is full of salmon, trout, and white tish. A schooner was loaded here last season in a very short time with fish in and about the harbor ; and the climate is said by old voyageurs to be far more pleasant during the \\-intor than at the Saut and other places farther south, being of a drier nature* Between the island and the main land is the most sheltered passage, with two ex- cellent harbors on each side, one at Ot- ters' Creek and the other at Michipicoten River and harbor. This latter place is an important port of the Hudson's Bay Company, distant from Moose Iwt, Hud- son's Bay, 300 miles, which has been pass- ed over in canoes in six days. Michipi- coten Island is said to contain great min- eral deposit — silver, copper, and lead ; the Quebec Mining Company have a location here. At daybreak on Thursday we passed Slate Island, and shortly after encountered a dense fog and lay to till 1 p. m. It was two o'clock before we saw land. I'assed close to Thunder Cape, a perpendicular rock rising from the water's edge 1,350 feet. Anchored at Fort William, situ- ated at tlie mouth of Kaministoguoi River at 7 p. M., on Thursday 15th, and landed the mail Owing to a bar and shoal at the moutli of the "iver, we anchored about a mQe from the Fort, early on Friday the 16th. Some of the party went up the river in canoes to the Jesuit Mission, about three miles, where they were kindly re- ceived by the priest. Capt. Jas. Dick and Mr. MoMurrich went fishing to Current River, about five miles to the north, where the speckled t^^out proved too large and * The romantic and uninhabited harbor on the south side of Michipicoien Island, exceeds ii> SittVty, extent, and grandeur any hai'bor fouud on the shores of these j:reat lakes. It was visited by the steamer •' FLoughhoy,''^ with a party of I)h'asure on board iu ISUU, lying ut anchor uil Oiisht. TRIP FROM COLLIWGWOOD TO FORT WILLIAM. 105 strong for their light rods and tackle, smashing the tops of their rods and tear- ing away their lines and flies as fast as they were thrown in, and they had to give it up for want of material. (Jue of the trout caught wa-s the largest speckled trout I have seen for some years. There are trout in this stream, aud in all the rai)id streams between the t^aut and Fort \Vil- liam, from 2 lbs. to 6 lbs., and if larger ones are required, at Neepigon River *% they can be caught from 8 lbs. to 12 lbs. Fancy such a spot, ye disciples of Isaac AValton ; speckled trout to be had for the trouble of throwing a tly, within 3^ days of Toronto, weighing from 2 lbs. to 12 lbs. In this vicinity are to be found beautiful specimens of amethyst and other precious stones. " The gardens at Fort "William and at th Jesuit Mission are as forward as those on the north part of the county of Simcoe. The Hudson's Bay Company liave a large farm, 50 cows besides horses and sheep, and up the river there are other farms; they raise oats, bar4ey, and all kinds of vegetables, and I see no rea- son why they cannot raise wheat. Mrs. Mclntyre, the wife of the agent, was very polite and kind, and invited us all up to the Fort — gave us supplies of milk and vege- • tables. By this route their trade is car- ried on to Red River. Sir George Simp- son returned from Red River just before we arrived with two canoes (9 men in each) and left again for the Saut. This bay, Black Thunder, Neepigon Bay, and Pie Island Bay and neighborhood, abound in white fish aud trout — 10 fish frequently fiU a barrel — 20 as a general rule; nets should be 5^ to 7^ inch mesh. Our pilot, two years ago, in five weeks, with two men, tilled 175 barrels; he was furnished by merchants at the Saut with barrels and salt, and $5 when returned full — tlie rate this year being about $4. Thirty barrels of white fish were taken at one haul of a seme near Fort William. We left Fort William at 8 p. m., for Grand Fortage, passing McKay's Mount of Greenstone, 1,000 feet perpendicular height. La Fate or Pie Island, 850 fecfc perpendicular ; tliis island is said to abound in lead ; hardly a stone can be picked up on the shore witliout lead in it. On all these islands valuable stones can be pick- ed up, fit for brooches and rings. Tiie channel being very intricate, and the pilot not quite posted up, we lay to till day- break, and entered Grand Portage Bay at 5 A. M. Capt. Kennedy landed here with the mails, purchased a canoe, and was ready to start before we left. A nucleus of a town has already sprung up here on the United States side. " After giving Capt. Kennedy a hearty shake of the hand all round, we started homeward, at 7.15 a. m., and passed Cop- per Harbor at 2 p. M., Manitou Light 5.50 p. M., White Fish Point 6.40 a. m. ; and on the 18th July entered the Saut Canal at 10.18 a. m. Coaled on the American side, and wooded on Pim's wharf, British side. Landed the mail, and started at 2.45 p. M. Came to the wharf at Bruce Mines at seven p. m. — wooded and left at 7.40 — passing through the Mis- sesaga Straits and the channel between the Middle and West Duck. On the 19th passed Cove Island light at 8 a. m., — Cabot's Head 10 o'clock a. m., and came to the wharf at Colling- wood at 6 p. M. Thus making the first trip, including delays and stoppages round Lake Superior, in seven days and six hours ; distance run, taken from Bayfield's chart, between 1,250 and 1,300 (geographi- cal) miles. The average speed, running time, being a little over tea miles per hour. "The scenery throughout, and especial- ly that of Superior, is magnificent. And now that the means of communication are aflbrded to this great and unknown region, in a safe and commodious boat, under the care of a well-known and ex- perienced captain, it must beoomo tho 106 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. favorite route for the tourist in search of health and picturesque scenery." The Compiler of this volume having, during the summer of 18G0, passed over the same route on board the Canadian steamer Ploughboy, can vouch for the accuracy of most of the above described trip, exceeding in rich variety of lake and river scenery any other excursion, of equal extent, on the continent of Am- erica. The sliores or mainland, together with virgin islands, are in view for most of tlie distance, except while crossing the wide waters of Lal• bO oOO naw Point ) Cojyper Harbor 15 315 Agate Harbor 10 325 Eagle Harbor 6 331 Eagle Rirer 9 340 Ontonagon, Mich 65 405 Porcupine Hills 25 430 La Pointe, Wis 52 482 Bayjiekl 3 485 Point de Tour 10 495 Superior City, Wis 70 565 GRAND PLEASTTRE EXCURSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. On leaving the Ship Canal, at the Saut, the steamer ascends a beautiful stretch of the St. Mary's River for 10 miles be- fore reaching Waiska Bay, being an ex- pansion of tlie river of about 5 miles. Here the shores assume a bold appearance well worthy the attention of the traveller before launching out on the waters of the broad lake. Iroquois Point, on the American side, and Gros Cap, on the Canadian side, are next passed, 15 miles from the Saut Ste. Marie. The latter is a bold promontory, ri.^^ing some 400 or 500 feet above the water, with still higher hills rising in the distance. TonquambnovBay is next entered, and a scene of grandeur is presented to the view; on the southwest or American shore the land rises to a moderate height, wlide on the northeast or Canada shore the land rises to mountain height, being elevated from 800 to 1,000 feet, running off far in the distance toward the north. Parisien and other islands, attached to Canada, are passed on the right, the bay being about 25 miles long and as many broad; ifti fact, forming a part of Lake Superior, whose pure waters are in full view as far as the eye can reach, GouLAis Bay, and Point, another bold headland, lie to the north of Gros Cap, EXCIRSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. 107 ■where enters a river of the same name, and are situated on the Canada side. Here are line tishing-gronnds in the bay, while the river abounds in speckled trout, being a favored resort for fishing-parties during pleasant weather. Lake Superior, by far the largest of the Inland Seas of North America, ly- ing between 4G'' 30' and 49° north lati- tude, and between 84^ 30' and 92° 30' west longitude, situated at a height of 600 feet above the sea, from which it is distant about 1,500 miles by the course of its outlet and the St. Lawrence River, is 460 miles long from east to west, and 170 miles broad in its widest part, with an average breadth of 85 miles. It is 800 feet in greatest depth, extending 200 feet below tlie level of the ocean ; estimated area, 32,000 square miles. Near two hundred rivers and creeks are said to flow into the lake, the greater part being small streams, and but few navigable, ex- cept by canoes, owing to their numerous falls and rapids. It contains several islands, the most important of which are Isle Rnyale, and The Twelve Apo.stles, near its western extremity, and Grand Island, all attached to the IJnited States ; Caribou Island, Michipicoten, St. Ignace, Pie, Slate, and other islands attached to Canada. Keweexaw Point is its most remarka- ble feature, jutting far out into the lake some sixty or seventy miles. On the range of hills running through this point, about 20 miles wide, are found the most val- uable copper mines in the world. Its good and secure harbors are but few on the south side of the lake, while on the north shore and islands are several perfectly safe harbors, and easy of access. It dis- charges its surplus waters by the Strait, or River St. Mary, 60 miles long, into Lake Huron, which lies 27 feet below, most of the descent being at the Saut Ste. Marie, where is a Ship Canal three-fourths of a mile in leugth, with two locks of 10 feet less each, overcoming a descent of 20 feet. ''The early French Jesiiit fatho;?, who first explored and described this great lake, and published an account of it in Paris, in ltJ3G, describe the form of its shores as similar to that of a bended bow, the northern shore being the arc, and the southern shore the cord, while Keweenaw Point, projecting from the southern shore to near the middle of the lake, iTs the ar- row." This graphic description is illustrated by a map, prepared by them, which dis- plays the geographical position of its shores with as much fidelity as most of the maps of our day, and proves that those early explorers were perfectly fa- miliar with its outline and shores. '' The coast of Lake Superior is mostly formed of rocks of various kinds, and of difierent geological groups. With the ex- ception of sandy bars at the mouth of some of the rivers and small streams, the whole coast of the lake is rock-bound; and in some places, but more particularly on the north shore, mountain masses of considerable elevation rear themselves from the water's edge, while mural preci- pices and beetling crags oppose themselves to the surges of this mighty lake, and threaten the unfortunate mariner, who may be caught in a storm upon a lee-shore, with almost inevitable destruction." " Father of Lakes ! tby waters bend Beyond the eajfle's utmost view, When, throned in heaven, he sees thee send Back, to the sky its world of blue, " Boundless and deep, the forests weave Their twilight shade thy borders o"er. And threatening clilfs, like giants, heave Their rugged forms along thy shore.'" There are now situated on the Ameri- can side of Lake Superior twelve light- houses, viz., on Point Iroquois; White Fish Point; Grand Island; Marquette Harbor; Portage Entry; Manitou Island, near Keweenaw Point ; Copper Harbor ; 108 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Eagle Harbor ; Eagle River ; Ontonagon, at mouth (3ntonagon River ; La Pointe, on Madeline Island; and Minnesota Point, mouth of St. Louis River. A government survey of the Upper Lakes, including the St. Mary's River and Straits of Mackinac, is being made by a corps of Topographical Surveyors, wliich wlieu published will furnish accu- rate charts of these Inland Seas. White Pish Poixr, and LiatiT-iiousE, 40 miles from the Saut, lies on the south- v/est or American shore, forming a con- si)icuous landmark, while Mamaitis Point is seen on the northeast or Canada shore. On passing White Fish Point, where may be seen a number of " sand-dunes," or liills, and a light-house 75 feet in height, the broad waters of Lake Superior are reached. The steamers usually pur- sue a westerly course toward Grand Island or Marquette, passing Point au Sable, 50 miles farther. During clear weather, the steep sandy hills on the south shore, ranging from 300 to 500 feet in height, may be seen from the deck of the steamer. PoiXT AU Sable, 50 miles from White Fish Point, is the first object of interest seen on the south shore, on the upward trip, from the deck of the passing steamer, which usually runs within sight of land, a'.fording views of a continued succession of interesting points and bold headlands. The PiOTUUED Rocks, 20 miles further, or about 110 miles from the Saut, are next passed, presenting a magnificent ap- pearance at certain times of the day, when favorably seen under the rays of a brilliant sun; then the effect is height- ened by the constantly changing appear- ance of these almost enchanted rocks. The steamers occasionally run close in shore, when the weather is favorable, af- fording a fine opportunity to examine these wonders of nature. Trip to Lake Superior. Extract from a Letter, dated "St. Illinois, of Pictured Rock'?, L. S., "July, 31, 1862. " At sunrise this morning, we ap- proached the far-famed Pictured Rocks ol Lake Superior, and were favored with one of the most grand scenes imaginable. The sun rose clear, reflecting its rays in the waters of the lake, presenting a gor- geous appearance. The Sail Rock, and other points of interest, were distinctly visible, while the steamer was running for the * Grand PortaiV of the voyagears, the most remarkable feature of this won- der of nature, varying with every cloud efifect as seen from the passing vessel. " The steamer approached cautiously un- til she had run her bows under the project- ing cliff, then came to a stand-still as quietly as though she was lying at a pier or wharf, giving the numerous passengers a fine opportunity to examme the deep re- cesses of this immense cavern, the floor being covered with clear, transparent water to the depth of 10 or 20 feet. In- side were visible two lesser openings, where a small boat might pass out into the lake on either side — the portail being formed at the termination of a projecting clift" — rising about 200 feet above the lake surface. " The Pictured Rocks are thus briefly described by Poster and Whitney, in their geological report : — ' They may be de- scribed, in general terms, as a series of sand-stone bluffs, extending along the South shore of Lake Superior, for eight or ten miles, and rising, in most places, vertically from the water, without any beach at the base, to a heigiit varying from 50 to 200 feet.' "Yours, &c., J. D." EXCURSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. 109 The Pidured Hocks, of which almost fab- ulous accounts are given by travellers, are one of the wonders of this "Inland Sea." Here are to be seen the Cascade Falls and other objects of great interest. The Am- phitheatre, Miners' Castle, Chapel, Grand Portal, and Sail Rock, are points of great picturesque beauty, which require to be seen to be justlj'' appreciated. Extract from Foster and Whitney's Report of the Greology of the Lake Supe- rior Land District: Ficlured Roek§. — "The range of clift's to which the name of the Pictur- ed Rocks has been given, may be regard- ed as among the most striking and beau- tiful features of the scenery of the North- west, and are well worthy the attention of tlie artist, the lover of the grand and beautiful, and the observer of geological phenomena. "Although occasionally visited by trav- ellers, a full and accurate description of this extraordinary locality has not as yet been communicated to the public* '■^Th.Q Pictured Rocks may be described, in general terms, as a series of sandstone bluffs extending along the shore of Lake Superior for about five miles, and risiag, in most places, vertically from the water, without any beach at the base, to a height varying from tifty to nearly two hundred * Schoolcraft has undertaken to describe this ranire of cliffs, and illustrate the scenery. The sketches do not appear to have been made on the spot, or finished by one who was acQuaiiited with the scenery, as they bear no reseinl)laiiee, so far as we observed, to any of the prominent features of tlie Pictured Rocks. "It is a matter o4" surprise that, so far as we know, none of our artists ho.ve visited this region, and triven to the world representatious of scenery so striking, and so different from any which can hi- found elsewhere. We can hardly conceive of any thing more worthy of the artist's pencil ; and if the tide of [ileasure-travel should once be turned in this direction, it seems not ufire^isose that a fashionable hotel may yet bf built uudfr the shade of the pine groves near the (Jhapel. and a trip thither become as coirimon as one to Niagara now is."' \ feet. "Were they simply a line of cliffs, tliey might not, so far as relates to height or e.\teut, be worthy of a rank among great nattiral curio.sitios. althougli such an assemblage of rocky strata, washed by the waves of the great lake, would not, under any circumstances, be destitute of grandeur. To the voyager coasting along their base in his frail canoe they would, at all times, be an object of dread; the recoil of the surf, the rockbotmd coast, affording for miles no place of refuge; the lowering sky, the rising wind; all these would excite his apprehension, and induce him to ply a vigorous oar until the dreaded wall was passed. But in the Pictured Rocks there are two features which communicate to the scenery a won- derful and almost unique character. These are, first, the curious manner in which the cliffs have been excavated and worn away by the action of the lake, which for cen- turies has dashed an ocean-like surf against their base; and, second, the equal- ly curious manner in which large portions of the surface have been colored by bands of brilhant hues, "It is from the latter circumstance that the name by which these cliffs are known to the American traveller is derived; while that applied to them by the French voya- (jeurs ('Les Portails'*) is derived from the former, and by far the most striking pe- culiarity. " The term Pictured Rocks has been ia use for a great length of time, but when it was first applied we have been unaljlo to discover. "The Indian name applied to these cliffs, according to our roija'jenrs, is Schkuee- archibi-kung, or ' The end of the rocks,' * Lc Portail is a French term, signifying the principal entrance of a church or a jiortal, and this name was givi-n to the Pictured Itoeks by ihv voi/ageurx. evidently in allusion to the archeositi<»n and outlines. To be able to appreciate and tmderstand tlieir extraordinary character, it is indispensable to coast along inclose proximity to the clilfs and pass beneath the Grand Portal, which is only accessible from the lake, and to land and enter witlilii the precincts of the Chapel. At Grand Island, boats, men, and provisions may be procured. The traveller should lay in a good siil)ply, if it is intended to be absent long enough to i»ake a thorough examination of the whole series. In fact, an old voyager will not readily trust himself to the mercy of the winy our Indians, 'Ki-wi- wai-non-injr,' now written and pronounced aa above ; meaninff a portage, or [liace where a port- ase is made — the whole distance of some eighty or ninety miles around the Point being saved by entering Portage Lake and toUowing up a small stream, leaving a portage of only about a half mile to I.,ajce Superior on the other side." — Fos- ter and sVhitnei/s Report. 122 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. and copper ores, yielding immense quan- tities of the latter ; much of it being pure native copper, but often in such large masses as to render it almost impossible to be separated for the purpose of trans- portation. Masses weighing from 1,000 to 5,000 pounds are often sent forward to the Eastern markets. The geological formation is very interesting, producing specimens of rare beauty and much value. Manitou Island lies off" Keweenaw Point, on which is a light-house to guide the mariner to and from Copper Harbor. The island is about 7 miles in length and four wide. Copper Harbor, Mich., is situated near the extreme end of Keweenaw Point, in N. lat. 47 «• 30', W. long. 88° 00'; the har- bor, although somewhat difficult to enter, is one of the best on Lake Superior, being distant 250 miles from the Saut Ste. Marie. The settlement contains about 200 inhabi- tants, a church, a hotel, and two or three stores. Fort WilkiTis, formerly an U. S. military post, has been converted into a hotel, being handsomely situated on Lake Fanny Hoe^ about half a mile distant from the steamboat landing. In the vicin- ity are copper mines wliich have been extensively worked, and are well worthy of a visit. Agate Harbor, 10 miles west of Cop- per Harbor, is the name of a small settle- ment. This port is not as yet much fre- quented by steamers. Eagle Harbor, 16 miles west of Cop- per Harbor, is a good steamboat landing. Here are two churches, a good public- house, together with several stores and storehouses. Population about 700, be- ing mostly engaged in raining. The Central, Copper, Falls, Pennsylvania, and Amj^gdaloid are the principal working copper mines. Eagle River Harbor and Village, eight miles further, are favorably situated at the mouth of a stream of the same name. Here are two churches, a well-kept hotel. four stores and several storehouses. Po^- j ulation 800. This is a thriving settlement, it being the outport of the celebrated Cliff, or Pittsburgh and Boston, and other mines. The copper found in this vicinity is of the purest quality, where is found silver in small quantities, some of the specimens being highly prized. Off this harbor the lamented Dr. Houghton was drowned, October, 1845, while engaged in exploring this section of country : Ke- weenaw Point and adjacent country be- ing very appropriately named Houghton t/^ounty in honor of his memory. On the north side of Keweenaw Point bold shores extend to near Ontonagon, with high lands in the distance, forming the rich copper range of this region. Oiitoiia^fon, Ontonagon Co., Mich., 83G miles from the Saut Ste. Marie, is advan- tageously situated at the mouth of the river of the same name. Tlie river is about 200 feet wide at its mouth, with a sufficient depth of water over the bar for large steamers. Here is being erected an extensive pier and breakwater. The village contains an Episcopal, a Presby- terian, and a Roman Catholic church ; two good hotels, the Bigelow House and John- son House ; two steam saw-mills, and ten or twelve stores and storehouses, and about 1,200 inhabitants. In this vicinity are located the Minne- sota, the National, the Rockland, and several other very productive copper mines. The ore is found from twelve to fifteen miles from the landing, being im- bedded in a range of high hills traversing Keweenaw Point from N. E. to S. W, for about 100 miles. Silver is here found in small quantities, beautifully intermixed with the copper ore, which abounds in great masses. A good plank road runs from Ontona- gon to near the Adventure Mine, and other mines, some twelve or fourteen miles distant, where commences the cop- per range of hiUa. A small steamer also EXCURSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. 123 runs on Ontonagon River to near the Minnesota and i^ational Mines, where is a nourishing settlement inhabited by- miners. The Ontonagon River is thus beautifully described by Robert Alan, Esq., To tlie Oiitonag^oii River. Sweet river, on thy silvery tide The sable warriors no more glide; Along ttiy wild and wooded shore Their kindling watch-fires blaze no more. "Where'er thou roam'st by dale or hill Thy banks are silent now and still, As if thy waves, since time began, Had ne'er been stained by savage man. Unlike the tide of human time. Which keeps each grief, retains each crime. And deeper, as it downward flows. Is stained with past and present woos. Flow on, thou gentle river, flow Through summer's rain and winter s snow ; May Indian war-whoops no more wako Thy echoes, as thou seek'st the lake. But peaceful lovers by thy stream On future joys and pleasures dream. St. Andrbw. Population of Ontonagon Coui It J, 1§60. Towns, &c. Males. Females. Total. Algonquin, 46 31 77 Flint Steel, 20 10 30 Greenland, 105 67 ; 57 f 9Qfi Maple Grove, 67 £iX}\j Minnesota, 660 184 844 National, 246 90 336 Nebraska, 34 22 56 Ontonagon, 650 498 1,148 Pewabic, 71 38 109 Rockland, 187 95 282 Rockland Mine, 206 41 253 Rosendale, 344 251 595 Superior, 15 9 24 Webster, 261 79 340 Williamsburg, 68 30 98 Total, 4,488 The Porcupine Mountain, lying some 15 or 20 miles west of Ontonagon, is a bold headland that can distinctly be seen at a great distance, rising some 1,300 feet above the lake surface. LAKE SUPERIOR: ITS CLIMATE AND HEALTH-RESTORING INFLUENCE. [Extract from a letter dated Makquettk (Mich.), September 1, 1864.] " The number of visitors to this health- restoring region during the past summer has been very great, and I wish to record my testimony of its benefit to myself and others. The great mistake, however, is, with most invalids, that they do not come early enough in the season, and remain too short a period to feel the full effects on the system ; still the beneticial results are usually felt immediately on arriving in this region. " The following statement, made by a physician, may be relied on as strictly cor- rect: " Dr. , of the city of Philadelphia, was induced to leave home for the benetit of his health, being reduced in physical strength from over-application to his practice, and the heated weather of the past summer producing muscular debility, arterial acceleration of the system, loss of appetite and nervous irritability, causing restless and disturbed sleep and occasional confusion of the mental faculties. "On the 12th of August, 1863, ho started for Cleveland, Ohio, and proceed- ed directly by steamer to Marquette, Lake Superior, where lie Mrivci on tlio 16th of 124 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. the same month. The voyage was con- tinued to Ontonagon and thence back to Marquette, where he remained until the present date. " The result of this short voyage and stay on the lakes was truly gratifying, he being greatly invigorated in general health, and now able to endure any amount of fatigue desirable — fishing, hunting, or ex- ploring the mines in this rich mineral re- gion, and at all times finding the atmo- sphere truly invigorating, producing buoyancy of spirits. In his opinion the atmosphere of Lake Superior and the surrounding shore is well calculated to restore those who are in any way ener- vated by unhealthy climate or disease ; the belief being, in his opinion, that the at- mosphere of thisnortliern region possesses an excess of oxygen, together with a pe- culiar dryness and lightness which admi- rably adapts it to the purposes of free respiration. The lowness of the temper- ature, ranging from 40' to 70' Fahrenheit during the summer months, although not tending to provoke colds or coughs, causes a disposition to sleep as easily and quietly as a healthy babe in its cradle. " Invalids suffering from asthma, bron- chial, pulmonary affections, or general debility, are directly relieved and invig- orated — these beneficial results being ac- knowledged by all patients who give the wonderful recuperating influence of this climate a fair trial. It is not unusual for invalids to gain half a pound of flesh daily, and in the summer of 18G2 an officer from the army of West Tennessee, on furlough on account of sickness, stated that he had gained thirty pounds within as many days, although his strength had not as yet returned, but no doubt he only wanted time to feel the full recuperating effects of the Lake Superior region. " Although the winters are long, they are considered the most healthy period of the year, the extreme cold not being greater than is sometimes felt in the Northern and Eastern States near the seaboard. There is usually a heavy fall of snow, often continuing daily, at inter- vals for some weeks, with but little thaw- ing weather. The cases of invalids being relieved, and taking up their permanent residence in this region, is yearly in- creasing, they being living witnesses of its health-restoring qualities. " I may add my own individual expe- rience to the above, during the past eight years, having four times visited Lake Su- perior. Yours, &c., "J. D." La Pointe, 77 miles west of Ontonagon, situated on the south end of Madeline Island, the largest of the Ajiostle Islands, is one of the oldest settlements on Lake Superior ; it was first peopled by the French Jesuits and traders in 1680, being 420 miles west of the Saut Ste. Marie, which was settled about the same time. The mainland and islands in this vicinity have been for many ages the favorite abode of the American Indian, now lin- gering and fading away as the country is being opened and settled by the white race. The village now contains 300 inhabi- tants, most of whom are half-breeds and French. Here is an old Roman Catholic church, and one Methodist church ; 2 ho- tels, 2 stores, and several coopering estab- lishments for the making of fish-barrels. EXCURSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. 125 The harbor and steamboat landing are on the south end of the island, wliere may usually be seen fishing-boats and other craft navigating this part of Lake Superior. Wheat, rye, barley, oats, peas, potatoes and other vegetables, are raised in large quantities. Apples, cherries, gooseberries and currents are raised in the gardens at La Pointe. The wild fruits are plums, cran- berries, strawberries, red raspberries, and whortleberries. The principal forest-tntes on the islands are maple, pine, hemlock, birch, poplar, and cedar trees. Bayfield, capital of La Poiute Co., Wis., is favorably situated on the southern shore of Lake Superior, 80 miles east of its western terminus, and 3 miles west of La Pointe, being 80 miles west of Onton- agon. The harbor is secure and capa- cious, being protected by the Apostle Islands, lying to the northeast. The town plot rises from 60 to 80 feet above the waters of the lake, affording a splen- did view of the bay, the adjacent islands and headlands. Its commercial advan- tages are surpassed by no other point on Lake Superior, being on the direct route to St. Paul, Minn., and the Upper Missis- sippi. Here are situated a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic church; 2 hotels, 4 stores, 2 warehouses, 1 steam saw-mill, and several mechanics' shops. Population in 1860, 300. The Hudson and Bayfield Railroad, 164 miles in length, has been surveyed and will most probably be completed within a few years, there being a favorable land grant conceded to the company. This will afford a speedy route to St. Paul and other ports on the Mississippi River. La Pointe Bay, on the west side of which is situated the port of Bayfield, is a large and safe body of water, being pro- tected from winds blowing from every point of the compass. The shores of the islands and mainland are bold, while the harbor affords good anchorage for the wholo fleet of the lakes. The Indian Agency for the Chippewa tribe of Indians residing on the borders of Lake Superior, have their headquarters at Bayfield. The annual annuities are usually paid in August of each year, when large numbers flock to the Agency to ob- tain their pay in money, provisions, and clothing. Ashland, 12 miles south of La Pointe, at the head of Chagwamegou Bay, is another new settlement no doubt destined to rise to some importance, it having a very spa- cious and secure harbor. Maskeg River, a considerable stream, the outlet of several small lakes, enters Lake Superior about 15 miles east of Ash- land ; some 10 miles farther eastward en- ters Montreal River, forming the boun- dary, in part, between the States of Mich- igan and Wisconsin, The Twelve Apostles' Isles consist of the Madeline, Cap, Line, Sugar, Oak, Otter, Bear, Rock, Cat, Iron wood. Outer, and Presque Isle, besides a few smaller islands, being grouped together a short distance off the mainland, presenting du- ring the summer months a most picuresque and lovely appearance. Here are to be seen clay and sandstone chffs rising from 100 to 200 feet above the waters, while most of the islands are clothed with a rich foliage of forest-trees. The Twelve Apostles' Islands. The follo^\ing description of these ro- mantic islands is copied from Owen^s Geo- logical Survey of Wisconsin, &c. " When the waters of Lake Superior assumed their present level, these islands were doubtless a part of the promontory, which I have described as occupying the space between Chagwamegon Bay and Brute River. They are composed of drift-hills and red clay, resting on sand- stone which is occasionaUy visible. In the lapse of ages, the winds, waves, and cur- 126 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. rents of the lakes cut away channels in these soft materials, and finally separated tiio lowest parts of the promontory into islands, and island-rocks, now twenty- three in number, which are true outliers of the drift and sandstone. " At a distance they appear like main- land, with deep bays and points, gradually becoming more elevated to the westward. ^ lie an Ohene,' or Oak Island, which is next the Detour (or mainland), is a pile of detached drift, 250 or 300 feet high, and is the highest of the group. Made- line, ' Wau-ga-ba-me' Island, is the lar- gest (on which lies La Pointe), being 13 miles long, from northeast to southwest, and has an average of 3 miles in breadth. "Muk-quaw" or Bear Island, and "Esh- quagendeg" or Outer Islands, are about equal in size, being six miles long and two and a half wide. " They embrace in all, an area of about 400 square miles, of which one-half is water. The soil is in some places good, but the major part would be difficult to clear and cultivate. The causes to which I have referred, as giving rise to tliickets of evergreens along the coasi of the lake, operate here on all sides, and have covered almost the whole surface with cedar, birch, aspen, hemlock, and pine. There are, however, patches of sugar-tree land, and natural meadows. " The waters around the islands afford excellent white fish, trout, and siskowit, which do not appear to diminish after many years of extensive fishing for the lower lake markets. For trout and sis- kowit, which are caught with a line in deep water, the best ground of the noigliborhood is off Bark Point or ' Point Keorce' of the French. Speckled or brooli: trout are also taken in all the small streams. '• That portion of the soil of the islands fit for cultivation, produces potatoes and all manner of garden vegetables and roots in great luxuriance. In the flat wet parts, both the soil and climate are favor- able to grass ; and the crop is certain and stout. Wheat, oats, and barley do well on good soil when well cultivated. "In regard to health, no portion of the continent surpasses the Apostle Islands. In the summer months they present to the residents of the South the most cool and delightful resort that can be imagined, and for invalids, especially such as are affected in the lungs or liver, the uniform bracing atmosphere of Lake Superior pro- duces the most surprising and beneficial effects." Healthy Influence of Lake Superior. No better evidence can be given of the healthy climate of the Lake Superior re- gion than the following extracts from let- ters, written by well-known individuals : "Bayfield, July 28th, 1860. ^^Dear Sir : — Perhaps it would be inter- esting to you to state, in a few words, the happy effects that this climate has pro- duced for me. "Previous to my coming here I consulted with three physicians in Philadelphia, one in the central part of Pennsylvania, one in Washington, D. C, and one in Georgetown, D. C. It was the opinion of all that consumption was tightening her grasp upon me, and that soon I would be laid in the grave. Under medical advice I made use of an inhaling apparatus, drank cod-liver oil and whiskey, but aU without any beneficial results. Through the ad- vice of friends, and in hopes of saving my life, I came to this place, June 6th, 1857, bringing with me three gallons of cod- liver oil and three gallons of old rye whiskey. This bracing atmosphere seem- ed to give me immediate relief, and in a short time it seemed as if a heavy load EXCURSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. 127 was removed from my chest. I used the cod-liver oil in feed for young chickens and greasinj^ my boots, and gave the most of the whiskey away. I am now (three y ^ars after my arrival here) enjoy- ing excellent health. "Respectfully yours, "J.H.N." Bronchial, or Throat Disease. Rev. W- L resided in Malone, Franklin county, New York, during the year 1850, where he first was troubled by the hronchicd disease, which led to bleed- ing of the throat. From Malone he re- moved to Fairfield county, Connecticut, in 1852, near Long Island Sound, where the disease increased in virulence, assuming an alarming character. In 1855 he removed to Syracuse, New York, where he con- tracted a remittent fever, without being benefited in regard to his throat disease. lu 1858 lie visited Europe for the benefit of his health, without his throat disease being benefited, although he improved in f eneral health. In August, 1859, he renroved to Eagle River, Michigan, situ- ated on the south shore of Lake Superior, where he gradually improved in health ; but on moving a few miles in the interior, near one of the copper mines, his health rapidly improved, and a permanent cure was eflfected, as he supposes, by pure and bracing air — for which this whole section of country is justly celebrated. Dated, on board steamer North Star, July, 1860. On proceeding from La Pointe west- ward, the steamer usually passes around Point de Tour, ten miles north.^nd enters Fond du Lac, a noble bay situated at the head of Lake Superior. It may be said to be 50 miles long and 20 miles wide, abounding in good fishing-grounds. Superior, or Superior City, Douglass county, Wisconsin, is most advantageous- ly situated on a bay of Superior, at tlio west end of the lake, near the rac^uth of St. Louis River. Here are a church, two hotels, and ten or fifteen stores and store- houses, and about 1,000 inhabitants. A small river, called the Nemadji, runs through Superior, and enters into St. Louis Bay. Perhaps no place on Lake Superior has commercial advantages equal to this town ; its future in magnified al- most beyond conception. The St. Croix and Superior Raiiroad is proposed to ter- minate at this place, extending south- ward to Hudson, on the St. Croix River, about 140 miles. Another railroad is pro- posed to extend westward to the Sa k Rapids, on the Upper Mississippi, either from this place or Portland, Minn. DISTANCES FROM FOND DU LAC TO ST. PAUL, MINN. Fund DU Lac (St Louis Kiver) Miles. Pokagetna. {Portage) 75 Falls St. Ciioix (Oif/^^) 40 115 Marine Mills, (iS'^etwi&txii) 19 134 Stillwater. " 11 145 St. Paul {Stage) IS 103 Distance from Superior City to St. Cloud (Sauk Rapids), by proposed rail- road route, 120 miles. St. Cloud to Sr. Paul, 76 miles. Total, 196 mUes. distances from superior city to PKMBINA, MINN. Superior : Miles. Crow Wing 80 Otter Tail Lake TO 1.50 Uice Itiver 74 224 Sand Hills Kivi-r... 70 2y4 tJrand Fork (Red lliver) 40 334 Pembina 80 414 From St. Paul to Pembina, via Crow Wing, 464 m. Fond du Lac, St. Louis county, Minn., is situated on St. Louis River, 20 miles above its entrance into Lake Superior. Vessels of a large class ascend to this place, being within four miles of tiie St. Louis Falls, having a descent of about 60 feet, aflbrd- ing an immense water-power. Here are sandstone and slate quarries,, from which 128 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Btone and slate are quarried, and exten- sively used for building purposes. Iron and copper ore abound in the vicinity. These advantages bid fair to mal-'47. I Island, near the Pictured Eocks, Kewee- naw Point, La Pointe, and Apostles' Islands, and at different stations on Isle Royale, where large quantities are taken and exported; but there are no reUable statistics as to the number of men em- ployed or the number of barrels exported. Between the head of Keweenaw Point and the mouth of the Ontonagr>n River, considerable quantities of fish are taken, for which there is a ready market at the mining stations. In addition to the white fish and Mackinac trout, the siskowit is occasionally taken. Its favorite resort, however, is the deep water in the vicinity of Isle Royale. Lake Superior Trout-Fishing in Win- ter. — The Lake Superior Journal says: " Angling through the ice to a depth of thirty fathoms of water is a novel mode of fishing somewhat peculiar to this pecu- liar region of the world. It is carrying the war into fishdoni with a vengeance, and is denounced, no doubt, in the com- munities on the bottom of these northern lakes as a scaly piece of warfare. The large and splendid salmon-trout of these waters have no peace ; in the summer they are enticed into the deceitful meshes of the gill-net, and in the winter, when they hide themselves in the deep caverns of the lakes, with fifty fathoms of water above their heads, and a defence of ico two or three feet in thickness on the top of that, they are tempted to destruction by the fatal hook. " Large numbers of these trout are caught every winter in this way on Lake Superior ; the Indian, always skilled in the fishing business, knows exactly where to find them and how to kill them. The whites make excursions out on the lake in pleasant weather to enjoy this sport. Tlicre is a favorite resort for both fish and fishermen near Gros Cap, at the entrance of Lake Superior, through the rockj gate- way botweeii Gros (.'ajj and Point Iroquois, about 18 miles ;ibov'^ the Sauu and many EXCURSION AROUND LAKE SUPERIOR. 131 a large trout, at this point, is pulled up from its warm bed at the bottom of the lake, in winter, and made to bite the cold ice in tliis upper world. To see one of these fine fish, four or five feet in length, and weighing half as much as a man, floundering on the snow and ice, weltering and freezing to death in its own blood, oftentimes moves the heart of the fisher- man to expressions of pity. "The modus operandi in this kind of great trout-fishing is novel in the extreme, and could a stranger to the business over- look at a distance a party engaged in the sport, he would certainly think they were mad, or each one making foot-races against time. A hole is made through the ice, smooth and round, and the fisherman drops down his large hook, baited with a small herring, pork, or other meat, and when he ascertains the right depth, he waits — with fisherman's luck — some time for a bite, wbich in this case is a pull all together, for the fisherman throws the line over his shoulder, and walks from the hole at the top of his speed till the fish bounds out on the ice. "We have known of as many as fifty of these splendid trout caught in this way by a single fisherman in a single day : it is thus a great source of pleasure and a valuable resource of food, especially in Lent, and the most scrupulous anti-pork believers might here * down pork and up fidh' without any offence to conscience." liist of Vessels Liost in the L4 1854 1855 1858 1856 1857 1853 $366,000 $125,000 —making a grand total of $491,000. Since the above Table was compiled the following losses have occurred in the Lake Superior trade : Steamer Arctic, wrecked on Lake Supe- rior, June, 1860. Steamer Grazelle, wrecked on Lake Su- perior, 1860. Steamer Elgin, lost on Lake Michigan, September 7, 1860. Steamer North Star, burnt at Cleveland, February, 1862. The loss of hfe by the accidents given above is, as near as can be ascertained, as follows : — Schooner Merchant 18 Propeller Independence 3 Steamer E. K. CoUins 20 Steamer Superior 54 Steamer Lady Elgin 350 Steamer Sunbeam 35 Total. ,480 Steamer Sunbeam lost in a gale on Lake Supe- rior, Aug. 28, 1863. 132 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Ttae l which the Unlt->d States 144 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. creek of the same name, which is naviga- ble to Port Robinson, some eight or ten miles west ; the latter place being on the line of the Welland Canal. The village of Chippewa contains a population of about 1,000 souls. Steamboats and lake craft of a large size are built at this place for the trade of Lake Erie and the Upper Lakes. It has obtained a place in history on account of the bloody battle which was fought near it in the war of 1812^ between the United States and Great Britain. The battle was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, on the plains, a short distance south of the steamboat landing. The American forces were commanded by Major-General Jacob Brown, and the British, by Major-General Riall, who, af- ter an obstinate and sanguinary fight, was defeated, with considerable loss. At Chippewa commences the railroad extending to Niagara, at the mouth, of the river, a distance of 17 miles. Steamboats continue the line of travel from both ends of this road, thus furnishing an interesting and speedy conveyance between Lakes Erie and Ontario. On ariving in the vicinity of the Falls OF Niagara, the cars stop near the Clifton Hoicse, situated near the ferry leading to the American side. The site of this house was chosen as giving the best view of both the American and Canadian or Horse-Shoe Falls, which are seen from the piazzas and front windows. This is the most interest- ing approach to the Falls. In addition to the Falls, there are other points of attraction on the Canada side of the river. The collection of curiosities at the Museum, and the Camera Obscura, which gives an exact and beautiful, though miniature image of the Falls, are well wor- thy of a visit. The Burning Sj^ring, two miles above the Falls, is also much fre- quented; and the rides to the battle- grounds in this vicinity makes an exhila- rating and very pleasant excursion. For farther descnptioa of Falls, see page 149. Drummondsville, one mile west of the Falls, and situated on Lundy''s Lane, is celebrated as the scene of another san- guinary engagement between the Ameri- can and British forces, July 25, 1814. The following is a brief, though correct account of the engagement : " On the after- noon of the above day, while the Ameri- can army was on their march from Fort George toward Fort Erie, ascending the west bank of the river, their rear-guard, under the immediate command of Gen. Scott, was attacked by the advanced guard of the British army, under Gen. Riall, the British having been reinforced after their defeat at Chippewa, on the 6th of the same month. This brought on a general conflict of the most obstinate and deadly character. As soon as attacked. Gen. Scott advanced witli his division, amounting to about 3,000 men, to the open ground focing the heights occupied by the main British army, where, were planted several heavy pieces of can- non. Between eight and nine o'clock in the evening, on the arrival of reinforcements to both armies, the battle became general and raged for several hours, with alternate success on both side*!: each army evin- cing the most determined bravery and re- sistance. The command of the respective forces was now assumed by Major Gen. Brown and Lieut.-Gen. Drummond, each having under his command a well-disci- plined army. The brave (American) Col. Miller was ordered to advance and seize the artillery of th« British, which he eSected at the point of the bayonet in the most gaUant manner. Gen. RiaU, of the English army, was captured, and the pos- session of the battle-ground contested un- til near midnight, when 1,100 men being either killed or wounded, the conflicting armies, amounting altogether to about 6,000 strong, ceased the deadly conflict, and for a time the bloody field was left un- occupied, except by the dead and wounded. When the British discovered that the Americans had encamped one or two miles Brock's Mouumsn'' — Queeoston Heights. ROUTE FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. 145 distant thpy returned and occupied tlieir former position. Thus ended one of the most bloody conliicts that occurred during the hist war; and while each party boasted a victory, altogether too dearly bought, neither was disposed to renew the con- aicL" Clifton is a new and flourishing village, Eituated at the western termination of the (ireat AVestern Railway, where it connects with the SiLspen-sion Bridge. For descrip- tion of route to Detroit, &c., see page 50. Ql'EEN'Stox, situated seven miles below the Falls, and about the same distance above the eutrauce of Niagara River into Lake Ontario, lies directly opposite the village of Lewiston, Vf'ith which it is con- nected by a Suspension Bridge 850 feet in ieugtlL It contains about 500 inhabitants, GO dwelUng-houses, one Kpiscopal, one Scotch Presbyterian, and one Baptist church, four taverns, four stores, and three w^areliouscs. This place is also celebrated as being tlie scene of a deadly strife between the American and British forces, October 13, 1812. The American troops actually engaged in tlie light were commanded by Gon. Solomon Van Rens- selaer, and both the troops and their com- mander greatly distinguished themselves for their bravery, althougii ultimately over- powered by superior numbers, lu attempt- ing to regain their own side of the river many of the Americans perished; the whole lo5S in killed, wounded, and prison- ers amounting to at least 1,000 men. Major-General Brock, the British com- mander, w^as kiUed in the middle of the fight, while leading on his men. A now monument stands on the heights, near where he fell, erected to his memory. The first raonumont was nearly destroyed by gunpowder, April IT, 1840^ an infamous act, said to have been perpetrated by a person concerned in the insurrection of iSo7-'3S. Brouk's ik'KW MoN'UMEN'T was com- raeneed in 16j^, and fiai^hed in 1853; being 185 feet high, ascended on the in- side by a spiral staircase of 235 stono steps. The base is 40 feet square and 35 feet in height, surmounted, by a tablet 35 feet high, with historical devices on the four sides. The main shaft, about 100 feet, is lluted and surmounted by a Corin- thian capital, on which is placed a colossal figure of Major-General Brock, 18 feet in height. This beautiful structure cost ■ £10,000 sterling, being entirely con- structed of a cream-colored stone quar- ried in the vicinity. A massive stone wall, 80 feet square, adorned with mili- tary figures and tropMes at the corners, 27 feet in height, surrounds the monu- ment, leaving space for a grass-plot and walk on the inside of the enclosure. The following is the inscription : , Upper (Canada Has dedicated this Monument to tiie memory of the lato Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, K. B. Provisional Lieut. -Governor and Commander of the ForciiS in this Province, Whose remains an' deposited in the vault beneath. OpposiniT the invading enemy He fell in action, near the Heights, on the i;3th October, 1812, In the 43d year of bis age, Eevered and lamented by the people whom he governed, and deplored by the Sovereign to whose service His life had been devoted. The last words of Major-General Brock, when he fell mortally wounded by a mus- ket-shot through the left breast, were, '• Never mind, my boys, the death of one man — I have not long to live," Thus departed one of the many noble spirits that were sacrificed on this frontier during the war of 1812. The village of Xlvgarv is advantage- ously situated on the Canada side, at tii« entrauce of the river into Lake Ontario, directly opposiXe Fort Niagara, on the Amerie-an side. It contains about 3,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail; one Fpisconalj oiie Presbyterian, one Metho- 146 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. dist, and one Roman Catholic Church ; 6 1 hotels and taverns ; and 20 stores of dif- 1 ferent kinds ; also, an extensive locomo- j tive and car factory. This is the most noted place in Canada West for building steamboats and other craft navigating Lake Ontario. Here is a dockyard with a marine railway and foundry attached, capable of making machinery of the lar- gest description, and giving employment to a great number of men. It is owned by the '• Niagara Dock Company." Steamers leave daily for Toronto, etc. Fort George, situated a short distance south or up-stream from the mouth of the river, is now in ruins. This was the scene of a severe contest in 1813, in which the Americans were victorious. A new fort has been erected on the point of land at the mouth of the river, directly opposite old Fort Niagara on the American side. The new fortification is called Fort Massa- sauga. The whole frontier on the Canada side, from Fort Greorge to Fort Erie, opposite Buffalo, was occupied by the American army in 1814, when occurred a succession of battles of the most determined and bril- liant character. NIAGARA RIVER, ITS RAPIDS, FALLS, ISLANDS, AND ROMANTIC SCENERY. " Majestic stream ! what river rivals thee, Thou child of many lakes, and sire of one — Lakes that claim kindred with the all-circling sea — Large at thy birth as when thy race is ran ! Against what great obstructions has thou won Thine august way — the rock -formed mountain - plain Has opened at thy bidding, and the steep Bars not thy passage, for the ledge in vain Stretches across the channel — thou dost leap Sublimely down the height, and urge again Thy rock-embattled course on to the distant main." This most remarkable and romantic stream, the outlet of Lake Erie, through which flows all the accumulated waters of the Upper Lakes of North America, very appropriately forms the boundary between two great countries, the British province of Upper Canada on the one side, and the State of New York, the " Empire State" of the Union, on the opposite side. In its whole course, its peculiar character is quite in keeping with the stupendous Cataract from which its principal interest is derived. The amount of water passing through this channel is immense ; from a compu- tation which has been made at the out- let of Lake Erie, the quantity thus dis- charged is about twenty millions of cubic feet, or upwards of 600,000 tons per minute, all of which great volume of water, 20 miles below, plunges over the Falls of Niagara. The Niagara Eiver commences at Bird Island, nearly opposite the mouth of Buf- falo harbor, and passes by the site of old Fort Erie and Waterloo on the Canada side. At the later place a steam ferry- boat plies across the river to Black Rock, now forming a part of the city of Buffalo. It is here proposed to construct a railroad bridge across the stream, about 1,800 feet in width. Squaw Island and Strawberry Island are both small islands lying on the Amer- ican side of the stream, near the head of Grand Island. The river is here used in part for the Erie Canal, a pier extending from Squaw Island to Bird Island, formiu}.; a large basin called Black Rock Harbor. Grand Island, attached to Erie Co.. ROUTE FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, EJ C. 147 N. Y., is a large and important body of land, about ten miles long from nortb to south, and seven miles wide. This island is partly cleared and cultivated, while the larger portion is covered with a large growth of oaks and other forest trees. The ship or steamboat channel runs along the bank of Grand Island to nearly oppasite Chippewa, where the whole stream unites before plunging over the Falls of Niagara, being again separated at the head of Goat Island. From this point the awe-struck traveller can scan the quiet waters above, and the raging rapids below, preparing to plunge over the Cataract. Cayuga Island and Buckhorn Island are small bodies of land belonging to the United States, situated immediately be- low Grand Island. Navy Island, lying opposite the vil- lage of Chippewa, 18 miles below the head of the river, is a celebrated island belonging to the Canadians, having been taken possession of by the sympathizing patriots in 1837, when a partial rebellion occurred in Upper and Lower Canada. TONAWANDA, 11 mUes below Buffalo, is situated at the mouth of Tonawanda Creek, opposite Grand Island, The Erie Canal here enters the creek, which it fol- lows for several miles on its course to- ward Lockport. A railroad also runs to Lockport, connectmg with the Xexo York Central Railroad, extending to Albany. A ship canal is proposed to be construct- ed from Tonawanda to some eligible point on Lake Ontario, thus forming a rival to the Welland Canal of Canada. Schlosser's Landing, two miles above Niagara Falls village, is a noted steam- boat landing, opposite Chippewa, from whence the steamer Caroline was cut adrift by the British and destroyed, by being precipitated over the Falls during the Canadian rebellion, December 29th. 1837. The Rapids. — Below Navy Island, be- tween Chippewa and Schlosser, the river is nearly three miles in width, but soon narrows to one mile, when the Rapids commence, and continue for about one mile before reaching the edge of the preci- pice at the Horse-Shoe Fall. At the commencement of the Rapids, "the bed of the river declines, the chan- nel contracts, numerous large rocks heave up the roUiu^ surges, and dispute the passage of the now raging and foaming doods. The mighty torrent leaping down successive ledges, dashing over opposing elevations, hurled back by ridges, and repelled from shores and islands — plung- ing, boiling, roaring — seems a mad wil- derness of waters striving against its better fate, and hurried on to destruction by its own blind and reckless impetuosi- ty. Were there no cataract, these Rapids would yet make Niagara the wonder of the world." Iris, or Goat Island, commences near the head of the Rapids, and extends to the precipice, of which it forms a part, separating the American Fall from the Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall. It is about half a mile in length, eighty rods wide, and contains over sixty acres of arable land, being for the most part covered witli a heavy growth of forest trees of a variety of species, and native plants and flowers. A portion of the island, however, has been cleared off, and a garden enclosed, in which are some excellent fruit-trees, and a variety of native and foreign plants and flowers, and a fish-pond. The island is remarkably cool, shady, and pleasant, and is an object of unceasing admiration from year to year. Comfortable seats and arbors are placed at the most interesting points, where ihe visitor can sit at ease and enjoy the beautiful and sublime views presented to his sight — often entranced lay a deafening roar of miglity waters in their descent, accompanied by diang- ing rainbows of the most gorgeous do- scriptiun. 148 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. IViagara. WRITTEN BY LYofA H. SIGOURNEY. Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe Of terror and of beauty ; God hath set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud Mantles around thy feet, and He doth give Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him Eternally ; bidding the lip of man Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altar Pour incense of uwe-struck praise. Goat Island Bridge. — The Niagara Falls Gazette gives the following descrip- tion of this new structure : " This bridge across the east branch of the Niagara River is situated in th'e Rap- ids, about sixty rods above the Cataract, on the site of the old wooden bridge. It is 3G0 feet long, and consists of four arches of ninety feet span each, supported be- tween the abatments of three piers. The piers above water are built of heavy cut stone, and are twenty-two feet long and six feet wide, tapering one foot in the height. The foundations are formed of foot-square oak timber, strongly framed and bolted together in cribs, tilled with stone, and covered with timber at the sur- face of the water. These timber-founda- tions are protected against wear and injury from ice by heavy plates of iron, and be- ing always covered with water, will be as durable as the stone. "The superstructure is of iron, on the plan of Whipple's iron-arched bridge. The whole widtli is twenty-seven feet, aflfording a double carriage-way of sixteen and a half feet, and two foot- ways of five and a fourth feet each, with iron railings. The arches are of cast iron, and the chords, suspenders, and braces of wrought iron. All the materials used in the con- struction are of the best quality, and the size and strength of all the parts far beyond what are deemed necessary in bridges exposed to the severest tests. '•Tiiis substantial and beautiful struc- ture, spanning a branch of tliis majes- tic river in the midst of the rapids, and overlooking the cataract, is worthy of the site it occupies, and affords another in- stance of the triumph of human ingenuity over the obstacles of nature. " The islands connected by this bridge with the American shore are the property of Messrs. Porter, and constitute the most interesting features in the scenery sur- rounding the cataract. Tliis bridge has been erected by them to facilitate com- munication with these interesting locali- ties not otherwise accessible." This is a toll-bridge, every foot passen- ger being charged 25 cents for the season, or single crossing. There are upward of thirty islands and islets in the Niagara River or Strait, above the cataract. Most of those not described are small, and scarcely worthy of enumer- ation, although those immediately contigu- ous to Goat Island form beautiful objects in connection with the rushing and mighty waters by whicli they are surrounded. Bath Island, Brig Island, Chapin^s Island, and Bird Island, all situated immediately above the American FaU, are reached by bridges. "When on Goat Island, turning to the right toward the Falls, the first object of interest is Hogg's Back, a point of land facing the American Fall, — Bridge to Ad- ington Island immediately above the Cave of the Winds, 160feet below. Sam. Patch's Point is next passed on the right, from which he took a fearful leap some years since, Biddle's Stairs descend to the water's edge below and the Cave of the Winds, which are annually visited by thousands of visitors. Terrapin Bridge and Terrapin Tower afford a grand view of the Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall and Rapids above the Falls. Three Sister Isl- ands are contiguous to Goat Island, on the American side. Passing around Goat Isl- and toward the south, a grand view is afforded of the river and rapids above the Canadian and American Falls. ^^-^.^^ THE A-MEaiOAN FALLS liY iIOOSl.IGHT. ROUTE FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. 149 ■§& Xia(;ara is a word of Indian origin — the orthography, accentuation, and mean- ing of which are variously given by difl'erent authors. It is highly probable that this diversity might be accounted for and explained by tracing the appellation through the dialects of the several tribes of aborigines who formerly inhabited the neighboring country. There is reason to believe, however, that the etymon belongs to the language of the Ii'oquois. and signi- fies the " Thunder of Waters.^^ " When the traveller first arrives at the cataract he stands and gazes, and is lost in admiration. The mighty volume of water which forms the outlet of the great Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie, is here precipitated over a precipice 160 feet high, with a roar hke that of thunder, which may be heard, in favora- ble circumstances, to the distance of tif- teen miles, though, at times, the Falls may be nearly approached without perceiving much to indicate a tremendous cataract in the vicinity. In consequence of a bend in the river, the principal weight of water is thrown on tlie Canadian side, down what is called the Horse- Shoe Fall, which name has become in- appropriate, as tlie edges of the precipice have ceased to be a curve, and form a moderately acute an- gle. Near the mid- dle of the fall, Goat Island, containing 75 acres, extends to the brow of the precipice, dividing the river mto two parts; and a small projecting mass of rock at a little distance from it, toward the American shore, again divides the cataract on that side. Goat Island, at the lower end, presents a perpendicu- lar mass of rocks, extending from the bot- tom to the top of the precipice. A bridge has been constructed from the American shore to Bath Island, and another connects the latter with Goat Island, and a tower is erected on the brow of the Horse-Shoe Fall, approached from Goat Island by a short bridge, on whicli the spectator seems to stand over the edge of the mighty cat- aract, and which alTords a fine view of this part of it. The distance at the faU. from the American shore to Goat Island is G5 rods; across the front of Goat Island is 78 rods; around the Horse- Shoe Fall, on the Canadian side, 144 rods; directly across the Ilorse-Slioe, 74 rods. The height of the fall near the American shore is 1 63 feet ; near Goat Island, on the same side, 158 feet ; near Goat Island, on the Canada side, 154 feet. Table Rock, a shelving projection on the Canadian side, at the edge of the precipice, is 150 feet high. This place is generally thought to present the finest view of the Falls; thougli, if the spectator will visit the tow- er on the opposite side on Goat Island, at sunrise, when the whole cavity is enlight- ened by the sun, and the gorgeous bow trembles in the rising spray, he cannot elsewhere, the world ovei enjoy such an 150 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. incomparable scene. A covered stairway on the American side descends from the top to the bottom of the precipice. " It lias been computed that 100 million tons of water are discharged over the precipice every hour. The Rapids com- mence about a mile above the FaUs, and tlie water descends 57 feet before it ar- rives at the cataract. The view from the bridge to Goat Island, of the troubled water dashing tumultuously over the rocks of the American fall, is terrific. While curiosity constitutes an attribute of the human character, these falls will be frequented by admiring and delighted visitors as one of the grandest exhibitions in nature. " This stupendous Cataract, situated in north latitude 43° 6', and west longitude 2° 6' from Washington,' is 22 miles north from the efflux of the river at Lake Erie, and 14 miles south of its outlet into Lake Ontario. The whole length of the river is therefore 36 miles, its general course is a few points to the west of north. Though commonly called a river, this portion of tlie St. Lawrence is, more properly speaking, a strait, connecting, as above mentioned, the Lakes Erie and Ontario, and conduct- ing the superfluous waters of the great seas and streams above, through a broad and divided, and afterward compressed, devious, and irregular channel to the lat- ter lake, into which it empties — the point of union being about 40 miles from the western extremity of Lake Ontario. " The climate of the Niagara is in the highest degree healthful and invigorating. The atmosphere, constantly acted upon by the rushing water, the noise, and the spray, is kept pure, refreshing, and salu- tary. There are no stagnant pools or marshes near to send abroad their fetid "Exhalations and noxious miasmas, poison- ing the air and producing disease. " Sweet-breathing herbs and beautiful wild flowers spring up spontaneously even ou the sides, and in the crevices of the giant rocks ; and luxuriant clusters of firs and other stately forest trees cover the islands, crown the clifis, and overhang the banks of Niagara. Here are no mos- quitoes to annoy, no reptiles to alarm, and no wild animals to intimidate, yet there is life and vivacity. The many-hued but- terfly sips ambrosia from the fresh opened honey-cup ; birds carol their lays of love among the spray-starred branches; and the lively squirrel skips chattering from tree to tree. Varieties of water-fowl, at certain seasons of the year, sport among the rapids, the sea-gull plays around the precipice, and the eagle — the banner bird of freedom — hovers above the cataract, plumes his gray pinions in its curling mists, and makes his home among the giant firs of its inaccessible islands. " No place on the civihzed earth offers such attractions and inducements to visi- tors as Niagara, and they can never be fully known except to those who see and study them, from the utter impossibility of describing such a scene as this wonder- ful cataract presents. When motion can be expressed by color, there will be some hope of imparting a faint idea of it ; but until that can be done, Niagara must re- main undescribed." Cataract of IViag^ara. "Shrine of Omnipotence! how vast, how grand. How awful, yet how beautiful thou art! Pillar'd around thy everlasting hills, Eobed in the drapery of descending floods, Crowned by the rainbow, canopied by clouds That roll in incense up from thy dread base, Hid by their mantling o"er the vast abyss Upon whose verge thou standest, whence as- cends The mighty anthem of thy Maker's praise, Hymu'd in eternal thunders H Below the Palls, the first objects of in- terest are the Ferry Stairs and Point View on the American side ; while on the op- ROUTE FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. 161 posite side is a ferry -liouse and landing, where carriages are usually to be found to convey passengers to the Clifton House, Table Rock, and other places of great interest. About 30 rods below the Forry Stairs is the spot where the hermit Abbot was drowned. Half a mile below the latter point is Catlin's Cave, formerly much fre- quented. The Suspension Bridge, the greatest artificial curiosity in America, is situated two miles and a half below the Falls, where has recently sprung into existence Niagara City, or better known as the Suspension Bridge, on the American side, and Gli/ton on the Canadian side of the river, here being about 800 feet in width, with perpendicular banks of 325 feet. The Whirlpool and Rapids, one mile below the Bridge, are terrific sights of great interest, and well worthy a visit. The DeviVs Hole, one mile farther down, is also a point of great attraction, together with the Bloody Run, a small stream where a detachment of English soldiers were precipitated in their flight from an attack by Indians during the old French war in 1759. An amphitheatre of high ground spreads around and perfectly encloses the valley of the Devil's Hole, with the ex- ception of a narrow ravine formed by Bloody Run — from which, against a large foi'ce, there is no escape, except over the precipice. The Ice Cave is another object of interest connected with the Devil's Hole. The Rapids below the Whirlpool are the next object of attraction ; then Queens- ton Heights and Brock's Monument on the Canadian side, and the Suspension Bridge at Lewiston; altogether forming objects of interest sufficient to fill a well- sized volume. The Niagara River is navigable from Lewiston to its mouth at Fort Niagara, a farther distance of seven miles, or four^ teen below the Falls of Niagara. The village of Niagara Falls, Niagara Co., N. Y., is situated on the east side of Niagara River, in the immediate vicinity of the grand Cataract, 22 miles from Buf- falo and 303 miles from Albany by rail- road route. No place in the Union exceeds this favored spot as a fashionable place of resort during the summer and fall months, when hundreds of visitors may be seen every day flocking to Goat Island, or points contiguous to the Rapids and Falls. The village contains several large hotels for the accommodation of visitors, the most noted of which are the Cataract House and the International Hotel ; the Monteagle Hotel, situated two miles be- low the Falls, near the Suspension Bridge, and the Clifton House, on the Canada side, are all alike popular and well-kept hotels ; there are five churches of different denominations; 15 stores, in many of which are kept for sale Indian curiosities and fancy work of different kinds. The water-power here aflbrded by the de- scending stream, east of Goat Island, is illimitable. A paper-mill, a flouring-mill, two saw-mills, a woollen factory, a fur- nace and machine shop, together with other manufacturing establishments, here use the water-power so bountifully sup- plied. The population is about 3,500. The railroads centring at the Falls are the Bvffalo, Niagara Falls and Lewiston Railroad, and the New York Central Rail- road ; the latter road connecting at Buffalo with the New York and Erie Railroad, anfl forming with other roads a direct route to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and "Washington. An omnibus line and hacks run from the village of Niagara FaUs to Niagara City, or Suspension Bridge, during the summer months, and thence to the Clifton House and Table Rock on Canada side. Niagara City, situated two miles belo-vyr the F^Us, at the Susj^eyision Bridge, is a new and flourishing place containing about 1,500 inhabitants. Ilorp is situated the Monteagle Hotel. 152 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. SUSPENSION BRIDGE AND THE Cataract and Rapi