5AS Z> 1^ F 457 .K3 fl5 Copy 2 AMERICA'S Wonderful Cliff Region A Descriptive Letter with liiustrations of THE KENTUCKY RIVER CANYON By a Tourist on the 5TEAMER FALLS CITY '■'i(j''t!f;!fMTerPacM&i. By Mait Post-paid on Receipt of PRICE 25 CENTS. OWENS PRINTING CO., Louisville, Ky. /^^^, \!-M«A-< 3 .K3A5 sd.6',9iL A LETTER WRITTEN BY A PASSENGER ON THE STEAMER FALLS CITY KENTUCKY RIVER AND THE CLIFF REGION [ We are permitted to cop}^ a letter, written b\- a gentleman who recently made a trip on the Steamer Falls City up the Kentucky River. This letter is addressed to his niece, and is reproduced just as written. — The Publisher.] My Dear Mary Jcaunctte : As a matter of business recentl}' took me up Kentucky River, I have concluded to write }'ou concerning the journey. Starting for a trip on the Kentucky River, the wise passenger will reach the Steamer k'alls Cit}- earU' ; and- then not be impatient ; but sit near the guards, aiid view the excellent harbor at Louisville. The Ohio River — rightly named, by Bayard Taylor, La Belle Riviere — at this place encounters a series of rapids to hinder its otherwise placid journey to the " Father ot Waters." The rapids are known as the Falls of the Ohio River, which has a fall usually of about one foot to the mile, but at these rapids there is a fall of about 25 feet in 3^ miles. In high water boats can pass over these rapids ; but when the water is low, the\- go through the Government Canal, located on the Kentucky side. From the Steamer Falls Cit\', a good view of the Falls is obtained, and notice can be taken of the work to improve navigation, made by the Government. A superior pier-bridge spans the river in full view, which is used b}' various railroads running into Louisville. Opposite is the Cit)- of Jeffersonville, — connected with Louisville by a steam ferry and another railroad bridge. In Jeffersonville are lo- cated the Car- Works, a State Reformator\-, and a Go\'ernment Military Storehouse. (O Below Jeffersonville is the Town of Clarksville, named for and laid- out by General George Rogers Clark, of Revolutionary fame, and related to " Lewis and Clark," the explorers. This town never realized the expectations of its illustrious founder ; but, while it ma}' never be a city^ many little homes are springing up there. Near this point, during the Civil War, was located Camp Joe Holt^ where were recruited many soldiers for the Federal service — especially those Kentuckians under General Rousseau, also a Kentuckian. Then the bell rings, the lines are " let go," and the Steamer Falls City starts on her journey. The retreating city presents a panorama of buildings and smoke, as the trim boat sails the water like a duck. Above Jeffersonville, we reach Port Fulton, where are located the shipyards, and find steamers in various degrees of completion. While steamboats are the usual vessels built there, the facilities of the yards are such that the owners can turn out any kind of vessel, from a "skiff"' to a gunboat. A large fleet of boats were constructed at these yards for the Yukon River, in Alaska. The timbers were sent by rail to the Pacific Ocean, and there put together and the gunboats launched. Just above Port Fulton is located what is known as the " Punkin" Patch," the receiving station for the coal-barges which are towed from^ the mines way-up the river. It will be observed that the coal companies have all the appliances for taking care of the coal — such as pumps, etc.,, and steamers and tugs for harbor work, and "coal-grabbers" for rescu- ing coal from sunken barges. There are several islands in the river, which are valuable as farming land. There are no unproductive lands on either side of the Ohio ; for while one may not plow the limestone bluffs and raise a crop of corn, he may quarry the rock and burn it into lime, as is done very successfully at and near the town of Utica, Indiana. About 15 miles from Louisville, we reach what is known as Fern Grove, where excursion steamers take thousands of fresh-air seekers, during the summer months. Near the Grove, is a range of limestone formation, bearing the name of the " Devil's Backbone." Climbing the hill leading up the "Backbone," may be wearying work ; but one is well repaid when the eye rests on a beautiful stretch of Kentucky scenery. When one sits and looks at the landscape, enjoys the living green of the trees and shrubs, and hears the hum of the bees and the singing; (2) of the birds, thus taking in more quiet in a few minutes tlian can be got- ten in a long time in the city, it is no wonder that many a couple has walked easily down the slope, with a better understanding of things tlian they had in mind when they were slowly toiling up. About one mile below Madison, Indiana, is seen on a hill overlook- ing the river, Hanover College, which has been in existence for over half a century — the alma mater of many an illustrious citizen. After supper the dark comes on, and the red and green signal lights — as required by the Government — are put out. A large steamer passes us, going up the river, and presents a brilliant appearance on the water. Later, we meet the advance guard of a coal fleet, which signals to warn us of its movements. As the tow passes us, the search-light sends its silvery shine from the bow of the boat to the bow of the barges, so that it may be seen whether all is well. And then a few hours" sleep, to be awakenec"! by the whistle for Mad- ison, Indiana. A broken moon in the f,ky is doing a faint business, while the search-lights of our own and another steamer enable the Falls City to make a safe landing. The " roosters," the men who " pack " the freight, do a rushing busi- ness for awhile, and then the bell signals for our departure. Awakening from another slumber, we find the Falls City has passed the Dam of Lock No. i, the backwater from the Ohio being high enough for that purpose. On both sides of the Kentucky River are what is known as the "bottom lands," which richly promise a good harvest, and back of the bottoms are those foot-hills which are so peculiar to the Ohio and Kentucky River sections, being more like knolls than rugged hills. One is reminded of the vine-clad hills of the River Rhine, and wonders why these hills are not utilized in the culture of the grape. As I promised you a letter on Kentuck)' River, dealing somewhat in its earl}' history, I cull some information from Collins" History of Ken- tucky, adding what I could find out by asking questions, and also my own observations ; but one may observe on a trip like this a great deal deal more than he can possibly put into words. Starting from Carrollton, in Carroll County, where the Kentucky River yields up its rather clear water to the m.uddy stream of the Ohio River, we travel up a beautiful and scenic waterway, which is navigable for about 265 miles. Made more navigable, it is true, by the assistance (3) of man, with a system of Locks and Dams, which earlier in the history of the State was known as " slackwater " navigation, an enterprise started by the State of Kentucky, but afterward turned over to the fostering care of the United States Government, and by the addition of other Locks and J)ams the " Cliff-Country" is being opened up to the enrapt- ured gaze of the astonished tourist. Nevertheless, in the earh- history of the State, this river did business in a navigable way on its own ac- count ; for, even before the days of steamboating, .it was the means of transporting from the Ohio River merchandise intended for the interior settlements. "Poling" a boat up-stream must have been hard work at all times, but when the spring freshets came the stream was by no means "sluggish" or "slack," as man)' a raftsman or keelboatman had good reason to know. It \>as at these times essential!)- alive. When Kentucky became well settled, the Kentucky River sent many a flatboat of produce and many a raft of logs to market. It still sends these things to the world outside, for which the shippers receive many pieces of the wealth of the realm in return. As we start from Carrollton, going up the rix'er, we must remember that the navigators begin at the source, and as they go down stream the rieht bank is to the rioht hand and the left bank is to the left hand ; but when the)^ go up the stream, the right bank is to the left hand, and the left bank to the right hand — which seems odd, at first, to the landsman ; but the navigators are " all-right, all-right," for they never get left by- having a permanent right and left bank to a river. Indeed, the lands- man don't know half the time whether the boat is going up or down the river. In this letter I will write such of its earl)' history as I can glean. A trip up the river will enable you to see for yourself its present condi- tion and advantages. The magnificent grandeur of the cliffs and scenery on this stream remain to please the eye. Carrollton, at the mouth of the Kentuck)-, in 1792, was known as Port William ; but it was afterward changed to its present name, in honor of the signer of the Declaration of Independence, " Charles Car- roll of Carrollton." Prestonville, named for Colonel Preston of Virginia, is opposite Carrollton. \\'orthville, on the right bank of the Kentuck)' River, seven miles from the mouth, where the river is crossed by a rail- road bridge, was named in honor of General William \\'orth. (4) In March, 1785, and up to the middle of the '90s. Indians were very troublesome at the mouth of the Kentucky Ri\"er. Antiquities in the \va}- of fortifications, etc., were rather numerous in Carroll County near Carrollton, and were recently to be pointed out. In 1754, James McBride and part}- came down the Ohio in a canoe, and stopped at the mouth of the Kentuck}' — which was original])' called the Cutawa. In January, 1795, Elijah Craig, Jr., achertised transports up the Ken- tucky, " for freight or passage." Leaving Carroll County, the river passes through Owen County on the right bank and Henr\^ Count}- on the left bank. Owen County, named for Colonel Abraham Owen, born in Prince Edward County, Virginia, has heretofore been facetiously designated as the "State of Owen," and was formed in tlie }'ear 1819. The Kentucky is its boundar\- line for 28 miles. Many mineral springs are found in Owen, and good limestone, from which hydraulic cement may be made. In politics Owen County has alwa}-s been noted for its fidelity to the principles and nien of the Dem- ocratic part}'. It earned the name of " Sweet Owen " from Major John C. Breckinridge, afterward Vice President of the United State, who also named a son " Owen County Breckinridge." The town of Gratz received its name from B. (^iratz Brown, who ran for Vice President with Horace Greeley. It is situated near Lock No. 2. About a mile below Gratz, is located the " Gratz Lead Mining Co.," which sends out many tons of ore by the Steamer P'alls Cit}', to be re- shipped to St. Louis for smelting. Montere}', a town and landing in Owen Count}-, was named for the Monterey in Mexico, where the Kentuck}' bo}s were engaged in teach- ing the Mexicans that " war meant fightin"." The " Jump-Off" is a perpendicular precipice, about ico feet high, with a hollow^ passage through its center, wide enough for a A\'agon road. The " Point of Rocks," on Cedar Creek, near Montcre}^ is a beauti- ful and romantic spot, where an immense rock, 75 feet high, overhangs a place in the creek called the "Deep Hole," to which no bottom has been found — so it is speak. " Pond Branch " is a stream of water flowing from a large pond, which is supposed to have been at one time the bed of the Kentucky (5) River — that is, judging from its general appearance. It is near Lock No. 3. The water flows from the pond, and empties into the river by two routes, thus forming a complete " mountain island," 2.\ miles long by i^ miles wide in its broadest part. Henry County, on the left bank of the river, opposite Owen County, was named for the celebrated Patrick Henry, of Virginia, who asked for " liberty or death." It is a very fertile county, and was, in US74, noted for being the ninth largest corn-producing county in the State. Lead and silver ore have been discovered in the county, and mam- moth remains were found iti the cut made for the railroad at Eminence, which is 170 feet above Drennon Creek, which empties into the Kentucky River. About a mile from the landing, which is at the mouth of the creek, is situated Drennon Springs, a noted summer resort. The springs furnish excellent mineral water. Jacob Drennon, Matthew Bracken, and Simon Kenton were the original discoverers of the Lick or Springs — Drennon having, Jul)' 7, 1773, purchased the information of its locality from an old Delaware Indian at Big Bone Lick, in Boone County. Simon Kenton built a block-house at Drennon Spring. The creek was then called Lawrence Creek. The river then passes through Franklin CoLint}', which was formed in 1794, and named in honor of Benjamin Franklin, — printer, philosopher, patriot, and statesman. Tall cliffs, in man\' places quite precipitous, rear their heads along the meandering course of the ri\er through this county. The Lock and Dam are about one mile below Frankfort, which cit}' is the State Capital. The fall here is about 13 feet, and affords a fine water-power. The crops raised for export are corn, wheat, r}-e, bar- ley, hemp, and tobacco. Much attention is paid to the raising of fine- blooded stock, and to horses, mules, sheep, cattle, and hogs for market. Frankfort, the Capital Cit}- of Kentucky, is a beautiful cit\- down among the hills, with about 12,000 inhabitants. "The Capital of any State possesses interest because it is the Capital ; but the Cit}' of Frank- jort possesses great historical interest, as well as natural and artificial sights. Among other places, we may mention the old Capitol building, so rich in memories of the great men of the State and Nation ; the State Prison, the Arsenal, the building where ex-\'ice President l^urr \\as tiied for treason ; and if one has an old-timer for a guide, he ma\' wend his way up the abandoned road-bed of ( perhaps ) the first horse-car line (6) and when at the summit he ma}- enter the Beautiful City of the Dead on Cemetery Hill, where repose the remains of so many illnstrious dead, and where is to be seen the Battle Monument, which commemorates Kentucky's heroes, including the brave ones who were executed in Cuba over 50 years ago. These men gave their lives, hoping for that freedom which the Island of Cuba now enjoys. Here also are the remains of Daniel Boone and wife, whose monument is picked to pieces by vandal relic-hunters." The city is now supplied with all the advantages of advanced civili- zation, except, perhaps, a more modern State House; but a new one has been provided for. Howexer, the present Capitol contains a winding stairwa\', furnishing its own support, the like of which does not exist es, proceeded on foot. Upon approaching the l)rink of the precipice, iMider tlirection of our guide, we suddenly found ourselves standing on the verge of a yawning chasm, and immediately beyond, bottomed in darkness, the Devil's Pulpit was seen rearing its black, gigantic form, from amid the obscurity of the deep and silent valley. The btckground to this gloomy object presented a scene of unrelieved desolation. Cliff rose on cliff and crag surmounted crag, sweeping off on either hand in huge semicircles, until the wearied eye became unable to follow the countless and billowydike mazes of that strange and awful scene. The prevailing character of the whole was that of savage grandeur and gloom. A profound silence broods over the place, broken only by the muffled rushing of the stream far down in its narrow passage, cleaving its way to its home in the Atlantic Ocean. Descending by a zigzag path to the shore of the river, while our companions were m.^.king prej^arations to cross, I strayed I'n-ough the valley. The air was cool, refreshing and fragrant, and vocal with the voices of many binls. The bending trees, the wintling stream with its clear and crystal waters, flowering shrubs, and clustering vines walled in by these adamantine ramparts — which seem to tower to the skies — make this a place of rare and picturesque beauty. The dewdrops still hung glittering on the (9) leaves, the whispering winds played with soft music through. the rustling foliage, and the sunbeams^ struggling through the overhanging forest kissed the opening flowers, and all combined made up a scene of rural loveliness and romance, which excited emotions of unmingled delight. The ierry- boat having arrived, the river was crossed without difficulty, and we commenceil the ascent, and after measuring up 270 feet, arrived at the base of tlie "Pulpit." Fifty paces from this point, and parallel with it, in the solid ledge of the cliff, is a cave of considerable extent At its termination,. there passes out like the neck of n funnel, an opening, not larger than a hogshead. Upon pitch- ing rocks into this cave, a rumbling was heard at an immense distance helc:)\v the earth. Some are of the opinion that this cave contains a b ittomless pit. We now ascended the cliffs some fifty feet further, clambering up through a fissure in the rocks, having the Pulpit on our right, and a range of cliffs on our left. To look up here makes the head dizzy. Huge and dark masses roll up- above you, upon whose giddy heights vast crags jut out and inerhang the valley, threatening destruction to all below. The floating clouds give these crag-^ the appearance of swimming in mid air. The ascent up these rocks, though somewhat laborious, is perfectly safe, being protect- ed l)y natural walls on either side, and forming a perfect stair>vay with steps from eight to ten feet' thick. At the head of this passage there is a hole through the liver side of the wall, large- enough to admit the body, and through which one may crawl, and look down upon the rushing, stream below. At the foot of the stairway stands the Pulpit, rising from the very brink of the main ledge, at more than 200 feet of an elevation above the river, but separated from the portion which towers up to the extreme heights. The space is 12 feet at bo: torn, and as the cliff retreats lightly at this point, the gap is perhaps 30 feet at the top. The best idea that can be formed of this rock is to suppose it to be a single column, standing in front of the continuous wall of some vast building or ruin, the shaft standing as colonnades are frequently built upon an elevated plat- form. From the platform to the capital of the shaft is not less than 100 feet, making the whole- elevation of the "Devil's Pulpit" 300 feet. It is called by some the inverted candlestick, to which it has a striking resemblance. There are two swells, which form the base moulding and occupy bout 40 feet of the shaft. It then narrows U an obhja f of about three by six feet, at which point- here are fifteen distinct p;iie:tij;r-;. Tais neck c intinaes with some irregularity for eight or ten- feet, winding on at an angle of more than one degree from the line of gravity. Then commences- the increased swell and craggy oftsets, first over hanging on one side, and then the other, till they reach the top or cap rock, which is not so wide as the one below it, but is still fifteen feet across." Jessamine County was formed in 1798, and named in honor of a. beautiful young lady, Jessamine Douglass, whose father entered the land near Jessamine Creek and settled there. The creek is of good size, and as large near its source as at its termination. It rises at two points about ten feet apart, at one it boils up from a bed of gravel, at another,^ gushes'from between two large smooth rocks, and is very deep. Upon one of these rocks the fair Jessamine was sitting unconscious of danger — when an Indian crashed a tomahawk through her brain. At this point, Hickman is the landing, and Camp Nelson is the name of the postoffice — because there is another Hickman in the State. As a matter of historical interest to you, I quote an account of " Old: Camp Nelson :" ( 10) '•Ill tlie ci\il war, ihi^ cduiUv was tlie principal \nnnt for the coiicentratidii of Federal forces and muiiiiioiis of war, mi ilie Cunilierland line. In 1863, Camp Nelson — named in coniplinienl to Major General \\'illiani Nelson- was estahlislied on the Kentucky River, at the mouth of Hickman Creek, in Jessamine C = oiS d CO ^ ^^•K *D =r h- r B- 1 o O 2 "■ "* S'b i3 ^ "-1 o riiiiiacle Rock, with Cedar Tree on Pinnacle, Cuinming's Ferry, above Lock No. 6. The "Twin-Chimney" Kocks or "Double Candh sticks," I'j Miles below Munday's Landing. The *'Twin-Chimney*' Property of the Chinn Mineral Co., of Harrodsburg, Ky., is located about two miles below Munday's Landing on the Mercer County side of Kentucky Riven and contains a splendid vein of fluorspar — listed by the chemist as "C. P.," or chemically pure. This mineral is used for fluxing purposes, and the demand is far ex- ceeding the supply. This Company is mining with compressed air, and it is a pleasure in passing to see the activity displayed and the machinery at work. The output is being actively ship- ped. The name "Twin- Chimney" is taken from the two large Stone Chimneys nearby, and built by Nature when the water- way was first cut in the cliffs. J. P. Chinn is the president, Geo. P. Chinn the General Manager, and C. D. Thompson Secretary & Treasurer of the Chinn Mineral Co., with offices at Harrodsburg, Ky. "Vc"W The Million "Mine" is situated one-half mile above Munday's Landing on the Mercer County side of Kentucky River, and is owned by the Chinn Mineral Co., of Harrodsburg, Ky. There is on the property a magnificent vein of calcspar, which shows some twelve feet across the face and running more than three-fourths of a mile back from the river. While it has not been open entirely to the bottom, there is every indication that it is 285 feet deep. Geology tells us that under this bed of spar, both lead and zinc will be found. There is on the land, near the river bed, but above high-water mark, a splendid well of salt water, and one of sulphur. It is the intention of the Chinn Mineral Co. to incorporate a Hotel Co. in the next twelve months, and no more ideal place in the world can be found for such an enterprise. The use of calcspar is increasing all the time, and the Company is now shipping it East in car lots, for export purposes. In addition to the calc, they have the water and sand adjoining the Mine, and will in the near future be making building blocks of the finest quality. S3 O ro cr? = B % Scene showing one of the Towers of the Shakertown High Bridge, with Ladder leading from the River to Top of Cliffs. o W M W 02 Shakertown This is oneof the most interest in^j points in Mercer County. 1 he vil- lage was founded in 1810 by that orderly and industrious society known as Shakers, and for years was one of the richest and most prosperous communities in the State. They owned at one time 7,000 acres of the finest bluegrass land, which they tilled in unison; they built thtir own houses and made their own furniture; they raised their ov\ n flax and wool which the women wove into cloth for the use of members of the society. The buildings are large, hand- some and costly structures, several of them of Kentucky marble, and all of them fashioned for comfort, convenience and endurance. The village is one of rare beauty and neatness, situated on a commanding emmence about a mile from Kentucky River and seven miles from Harrodsburg. To the Shakers be- long the honor of establishing the first system of water works west of the Alleghanies. Many outsiders, attracted by the quiet beauty of the place and the invigorating atmospheie, congregate here during the heated months, and the place is rapidly developing into one of the most popular summer resorts in the State. This picture represents the office an I residence of the noted physician. Dr. William Pennybaker, who is now manager of the society. Shakertown High Bridge. This is one of the boldest and most original pieces of bridge engineering in America. It is a part of the C. S. R. R., and was designed and built by the Baltimore Bridge Company, Shaler Smith being chief engineer. There are three spans of 375 feet each, making the total length 1,125 feet. The height of the rail above the foundation of piers is 286 feet and above low water 280 feet. Its construction was begun October 16, 1876, and completed February 20, 1877, at a cost of .$404,000.00. The natural beauty of the scenery at this point near which the Kentucky and Dick's Rivers form a junc- tion is not second to that of the Palisades of the Hudson. By the courtesy of Mr. A. B. Rue, photographer, we present three pic- tures — Shakertown, Dick's River Cliffs and "High Bridge, with Kentucky River at low water." Ihe picture is taken, looking up stream, showing the rafts in the river, and the Cliffs from the bt nch rock to top, and farther up stream showing the Cliffs of Dick's and Kentucky Rivers. bo PQ JO. be be a P-. P^ ^v '?s This Picture is taken from the Louisville Evening Times, and is referred to on Page 8 of this Book. Chimney Rock, Four Miles below Camp Nelson, frequently referred to in the Letter Printed in Book. 3 org S2 W D. 5;' C "O O -TS C C n 3 ^ ^ I Making a Milk Punch in the Moonshine Country. ■^■-':^'>-. KENTUCKY RIVER Summer Excursions '0N= STEAMER FALLS CITY. Every MONDAY at 3 p. m. the Steamer FALLS CITY leaves Louisville for High Bridge, Old Camp Nelson, and Valley View. Time passing Madison, 10 p. m.; Car- rollton, 11 p. m. Returning, arrives at Louisville Thursday evening. Every FRIDAY at 3 p. m. the Steamer FALLS CITY leaves Louisville for Frankfort. Time passing Madison, 10 p. m.; Car- roUton, lip. m. Returning, arrives at Louisville Sunday evening. Connecting at Carrollton with Cincinnati Steamers, and at Louisville with the Louisville and Evansville Steamers. For Further Information Apply to Dr. Q.M^l&llSlllliltMlSL, General Manager, 178 Fourth. A venue. Telephone Main 2522 . LOUISVILLE, KY» lonisYilte % lentncty BiTcrTactel^Co. ^ _.. ,_fp^- Early Morning. Passengers Quietly Sleei)ing, Wliile Steamer Falls City is Loading for Her Return Trip. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 614 307 6 g LIBRARY OF CONGRESS III nil III! 111! Illlllllll 014 614 307 6 #