^^d^^ ^'.^M^^^. ^^^"i oV'^^^Mfe'- ^. <-^ '-^0' "oV ., -^^ A-^ ^.'. %^ " • * ' ^'^ ^ *' • • ' * V^ oK 4 o To* .^^ o r^v .-» ^0 ^.^-^^^ r .-j^%V°" '_ c°\.i^v,"°- ,/\v;^'.'\. ' oV ^-r -^^0^ o V ^^-^-^^ *^0^ 4 o V ^0^ r<» ^°-^^. 4 o • .-s5:'^\..^' O o o V ^^0^ ^-^-^^ o ^o>^ ^ .0 ^^-*<^ IN THE HEART OF CAPE ANN OR THE STORY OF DOQTOWN BY CHARLES E. MANN With Illustrations by Catherine M. Follansbee GLOUCESTER, MASS. : PROCTER BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS 1 08 MAIN STREET h rB^ ^''^'^ To ^''■'^"T^iu \ 'y t 3 i*^ Id J o n » S Q PREFATORY NOTE. These Dogtown Sketches were written ahiiost wholly as the result of an effort to satisfy the curiosity of the author as to the history, biography and tra- ditions of the deserted village, their continuation and publication being encouraged by the general atten- tion they commanded. It is not claimed that they are complete, l^ut it is believed they contain far more information than has yet been published concerning their subject. The writer desires to express his deep sense of obligation to those who, before the publica- tion of the matter originally prepared, and since, have assisted by furnishing facts and reminiscences. 4 PREFATORY NOTE. Thev have made it possible to get together a mass of authentic history, where at first it seemed that at best, only a few traditions were to be rescued from ol)liv- ion. Of course nearly all the material is in the memories of Cape Ann's aged people, and it has been a source of unalloyed pleasure to sit by them and listen to their discourses upon the days of long ago. Among the precious memories of this year will be those of many an hour spent in ancient kitchens, while sweet-faced old ladies, often with sweeter voi- ces, or men with whitened locks and time-furrowed cheeks, recalled the stories told them by the fireside by other dear old women and noble old men of a past century. No wonder Gloucester has developed into such an admirable and lovable a community, when there still lingers among her people so many of their honored progenitors. CHAPTER I. WHERE IS DOGTOWN ? Ever since Goldsmith wrote his "Deserted Vil- lage" there has been a weird, poetic and sentimental charm about abandoned settlements, that has so ex- erted itself over some minds that it has become a pleasure to make the investigations incident to a cor- rect understanding: of what manner of men found it convenient or necessary to build habitations which it afterwards became advisable to desert. Archaeologists have given lifetimes, almost, to the imestigation of the modes of life of the cliff dwellers of Arizona and 6 The Story of Dogtozvn. New Mexico. Tliere are comparatively few ruined cities in America ; and even more rare are tlie in- stances of deserted villages which were once inhabited bv white men, the progenitors of people who are liv- ing to-dav. It lias been the pleasure of tlie writer during the past few months to acquaint many people with their ancestors, in a figin\ative sense, for in the heart of Cape Ann mav be found a village which was once inhabited by the grandparents or more dis- tant progenitors of manv who are to-dav acti\e in the affairs of Gloucester and Rockport. To-dav the onlv inliabitants of " Dog^town " are lowing kine, an occasional decrepit horse turned out to pasture as a pensioner, or woodchucks, crows and migrating birds. Its grass-grown streets are there, its foot-worn door-stones mav be used for a restinof- place by the occasional summer toinist on a tramp across the cape, a curiosity seeking Appalachian, or bv the more numerous berry pickers. The cleared land in the midst of such a \n aste of rocks, as is the rule in Dogtown Commons, always leads to speculation ; e\'en more suggesti\e are the walled yards and the manv cellars, both of houses and farm building's. Concerning these old cellars novelists have woven their romances, and poets have sung. Nearly a half- century ago they excited the interest of Richard The Story of Dogtown. 7 Henry Dana and Tlionias Starr King and the circle of rare minds they drew to Cape Ann with them. Long afterwards, Col. Thomas Wentworth Hig- ginson, in one of those delightfnl bits of reminiscence scattered throngh "Oldport Days," described a walk to Dogtown Commons from Pigeon Cove : "What can Hawthorne mean by saying in his English diary that 'an American would never under- stand the passage in Bunyan about Christian and Hopeful going astray along by a by-path into the grounds of Giant Despair, from there being no stiles and by-paths in our country' ? So much of the charm of American pedestrianism lies in the by-paths : For instance, the whole interior of Cape Ann, beyond Gloucester, is a continuous woodland, with granite ledges everywhere cropping out, around which the high-road winds, following the curving and indented line of the sea, and dotted here and there with fishing hamlets. This whole interior is traversed by a net- work of foot-paths, rarely passable for a wagon, and not always for a horse, but enabling the pe- destrian to go from any one of the villages to any other, in a line almost direct, and always under an agreeable shade. By the longest of these hidden ways, one may go from Pigeon Cove to Gloucester, ten miles, without seeing a public road. In the little 8 TJic Story of Dog-fozv?/. inn at tlie former village there used to hang an old map of this whole forest region,^ giving a chart of some of these paths, which were said to date back to the first settlement of the countrv. One of them, for instance, was called on the map 'Old road from Sandy Bay to 'vSquam Meeting-House through the Woods'; but the road is now scarcely even a bridle- path, and the most faithful worshipper could not seek 'Squam meeting-house in the family chaise. These woods have been lately devastated ; but when I first knew the region, it was as good as any German forest. Often we stepped from the edge of the sea into some gap in tlie woods; there seemed hardlv more than a rabbit-track, vet presently we met some wayfarer who had crossed tlie Cape bv it. "A pinev dell gave some vista of the broad sea we were leaving, and an opening in the woods displayed another blue sea-line before ; the encountering breezes interchanged odors of berry bushes and scent of brine ; penetrating further among oaks and walnuts we came upon some little cottage, quaint and sheltered as any Spenser drew ; it was not built on the high-road, and turned its vine-clad gable awav from even the foot- path. Then the ground rose and other breezes came ; 1 This is a reference to the " Mason" map of Cajie Ann. A copy of it hangs at the present time in the office of the city clerk. The Story of Dogtoivn. 9 perhaps we climbed trees to look for landmarks, and found only an unseen quarry. Three miles inland, as I remember, we found the hearthstones of a vanished settlement; then we passed a swamp with cardinal flowers ; then a cathedral of noble pines, topped with crows' nests. If we had not gone astray, by this time we would have presently emerged on Dogtown Com- mon, an elevated tableland, overspread with great boulders as with houses, and encircled with a girdle of green woods and another girdle of blue sea. I know of nothing like that gray waste of boulders ; it is a natural Salisbury Plain, of which icebergs and ocean currents were the Druidic builders ; in that multitude of couchant monsters there seems a sense of suspended life ; you feel as if they must speak and answer to each other in the silent nights, but by day only the wandering sea-birds seek them, on their way across the Cape, and the sweet-bay and green fern imbed them in a softer and deeper setting as the years go by. This is the 'height of ground' of that wild foot-path ; but as you recede farther from the outer ocean and approach Gloucester, you come among still wilder ledges, unsafe without a guide, and you find in one place a cluster of deserted houses, too difficult of access to remove even their materials, so that they are left to moulder alone. I used to wander in those lo The Sto?y of Dogtowit. woods, summer after summer, till I had made mv- own chart of their devious tracks, and now when I close mv eyes in this Oldport midsummer, the soft Italian air takes on something of a Scandina\ ian vigor ; for the incessant roll of carriages I hear the tinkle of the quarrvman's hammer and the veerv's song ; and I long for those perfumed and breezv pastures, and for those promontories of granite where the fresh water is nec- tar and the salt sea lias a regal blue." Col. Higginson hints in the above passage at many of the topographical and geographical features of the Heart of Cape Ann. The old road from Sandy Bay to 'Squam is what is now known as Revere street. He draws the line between Dogtown village and Dogtown Commons with as much care as the most particular old-timer could wish. He also mentions Lamb or Raccoon ledge, it is difhcult to say which. Dogtown is a pathetic, fascinating place. Whv did more than one hundred families exile themselves from the life of the villages so near them, and dwell in lone- liness and often in povert\ , in this barren and secluded spot? The name ''Dogtown," it is well understood, came from the canines kept by the so-called "widows " of the place, when the evil davs came that saw their natural protectors either in their graves or buried beneath the ocean. The Story of Dogtown. 1 1 There are many approaches to Dogtown. I have quoted Col. Higghison's description of the route from Pigeon Cove, by way of the old road from Sandy Bay to the 'Squam church, which is still passable. Com- ing from 'Squam, one may leave the church, walk a mile through the same road, past the Cape Ann Granite Co.'s quarries, the road passing through the upper end of one, to the house of David Dennison, an ancient gambrel-roofed lean-to, built by Mr. Den- nison's first ancestor on Cape Ann, and a fine sample of the better class of the Dogtown homes. From here he can liranch off to the right, by the Whale's Jaw, and thence go to the deserted village. The road by Goose Cove, near Riverdale, leads to the same point, the Whale's Jaw, a great boulder split by light- ning, or more probably by frost, to resemble the open jaws of a whale. Gee avenue and Stanwood street, in Riverdale, lead past the cellar of Judith R3'on (or Rhines), to that of Abraham Wharf, and thence to the main street of the village. Persons coming from East Gloucester may, if they are strong on their feet, go up Webster street and enter the pastures by crossing Lamb Ledge — no small task, for it is one of the most wonderful terminal mo- raines in New England, the boulders being piled one upon another in the most orderly confusion until they The Story of Dogtozvu, 13 reach the level of the Commons from the deep valley into which some glacier swept them ages ago. It is a good hour's stint to cross the ledge, and then one passes by Railcut Hill, the highest point on the outer Cape, to the old Rockport road, another picturesque and grass-grown highway of olden times, and enters the Pigeon Cove path which continues by the Whale's Jaw at the clearing once occupied by James VVitham, son of Thomas and grandson of Henrv, the first of the line in this countrv. Witham was born in 1693, and built this house at what is known as Stacy's Pines, the location bearing the suggestive title of the "parting path." He en- gaged in tending flocks for the Low family, for $300 annuallv, his son Thomas succeedino- him in his work. Only the cellar of the house remains. It was in later years a great resort for young people for mirth and jollity until its demolition. The path continues across the valley in which the Gloucester Branch of the Bos- ton & Maine railroad runs, which bears the marks of the tides on its sentinel ledges, showing that once they flowed through here from Good Harbor or Long Beach to the 'Squam river, and thence to the big rock, "Peter's Pulpit," which in the distance looks like a pitch-roofed house, which stands directly on the Dogtown road, marking the end of the main settle- H TJic Story of Dogto-vu. inent. The following diagram may give a clearer idea of the foregoing : p, A f The straight lines in the triangle represent the general direction of three very crooked roads. A is the point on Dogtown road, beyond the intersection of Reynard and Cherry streets, where the road from B meets it. From A the Dogtown road continues up what old residents of Riverdale call "gravel hill,'' past the Vivian barn, and on to the rock variously called "Peter's Pulpit," -Pulpit Rock," and "Uncle Andrew's Rock," at C. It then winds on to the Whale's Jaw. Opposite A is the site of the Nathaniel Day house. B is the point where Gee avenue and Stanwood street meet. The orass-sfrown road from B to C is the "Dogtown Common road," that is, it is the road o\er the Common to Dog-town. That from A to C is the "Dogtown road," and that from A to B is paradoxically called the " back road," though it is nearer civilization than either of the others. Were a prize of $50 to be offered a person wdio would start The Story of Dogtown. 15 from A, go to B, thence to C and back to A without getting off the road, he probably never would receive it. I have been over it many times, and never failed to get lost for a, few moments at least. Perhaps the spirit of Peg Wesson, who did not live in Dogtown, of Luce George, or of Judy Rhines, if Judy really was a witch, has bewitched me for the contemplated sacrilege of writing them up. Practically all the old people agree in calling the roads by the names I have given. The Commons road is also sometimes called the " walled-in " road, as the walls occasionally cross it. Old people do not call the cellars on the latter road — of Morgan Stanwood, Judy Rhines, Moll Jacobs and others in "Dogtown," they are on the "Commons." The reader will prob- ably be incapable of drawing so fine a distinction. There were obvious reasons why people who lived on the Commons road should have chosen to do so. ^^ '^^, V'^^ ^^^^ o