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 A Compendium of Useful Informatioi 
 for Every Hont Owner 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
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 CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
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2 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 i 
 
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 m 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Care and Management of Stallions 5 
 
 The Breeding Season 14 
 
 Care and Management of Brood Mares 19 
 
 Care, Breaking and Developing of Colts 25 
 
 Care and Management of Campaigners 34 
 
 Principal Diseases of Horses Described 39 
 
 Treatment of the More Common Ailments 58 
 
 Care of the Feet — Booting and Shoeing 63 
 
 Gaiting and Balancing 70 
 
 Rules for Standard Registration 79 
 
 How to Lay Out a Race Track 81 
 
 Horse Associations and Horse Journals 82: 
 
 Stud Books of All Breeds 83 
 
 States Having Stallion Laws 84 
 
 Useful Information of All Kinds, etc 90 
 
 ©CI.A319202 
 
d aJ 
 
 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PREFACE) 
 
 This little volume was prepared for the 
 purpose of supplying in brief form, practical 
 information sought for by horsemen each 
 day. Several chapters were prize essays 
 selected by The Horse Review from hundreds 
 of the writers on the subjects all over the 
 country. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CATALOGUES 
 
 We printed the sale catalogues for 
 
 Chicago Horse Sale Co., Chicago, 111. 
 
 Joliet Breeders Sale Co., Joliet, 111. 
 
 Tranter-Kenney Co., Lexington, Ky. 
 
 Blair-Baker Co., Indianapolis, Ind. 
 
 Daugherty Bros., Wabash, Ind. 
 
 Mason City Horse Sale Co., etc., etc. 
 And the farm catalogues for 
 
 Patchen Wilkes Farm, Lexington, Ky. 
 
 Dromore Farm, St. Clair, Mich. 
 
 Brook Nook Stock Ranch, Home Park, Mont. 
 
 White River Farm, Muneie, Ind. 
 
 Hillside Farm, Reading, Pa. 
 
 Laurel Hill Farm, Fox Lake. Wis. 
 
 Willowdale Farm, Crown Point, Ind. 
 
 Maywood Farm, Indianapolis, Ind. 
 
 Spring Valley Farm, Reading, Pa. 
 And many others. 
 
 STALLION CARDS 
 
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THE HORSEMAN S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF STALLIONS. 
 
 As this chapter does not treat of the breaking and 
 handling of colts, we will suppose you have a stallion 
 broken to lead and drive, and that your purpose is 
 to use him in the stud and on the track. Also, we 
 will presume that the reader is somewhat familiar 
 with the management of horses. Two things are ab- 
 solutely necessary on the start, viz., a box stall and 
 a paddock; but the details of these a little later. The 
 first thing to learn about a horse, is that he is half 
 horse and half human. The first thing to learn about 
 a stallion, is that, in addition to above, he is part 
 tiger! There is an element of treachery, of bold 
 wanton cruelty and murderous destructiveness, found 
 in the stallion, that obtains but slightly, if at all, in 
 the average mare or gelding. It is no argument 
 against the above declaration, that some stallions 
 never seem to display much, if any, of the tigerish 
 disposition. My own observation, and the testimony 
 of many men who have had an extended experience 
 with stallions, has convinced me that all stallions 
 have these characteristics a littl,e and some have an 
 abundance of them. It is, therefore, highly essential 
 that, in undertaking the care and management of a 
 stallion, this knowledge should be in the possession 
 of the groom. Never relax your watchfulness when 
 about a stallion; treat him with the utmost kind- 
 ness and consideration, but maintain a firmness quite 
 unmistakable, and conduct yourself, always, in such 
 a manner that he shall have the most unlimited con- 
 fidence in you, and at the same time a wholesome re- 
 spect for your powers and personality. Never play 
 with a stallion in the least, for it brings you down 
 
6 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 on a level with him, in his estimation; the familiarity 
 will breed contempt, and you will lose part of your 
 influence and control over him. 
 
 THE BOX STALL. 
 
 Have your box stall sixteen feet square, with one 
 door four feet wide and eight feet high; made of 
 double layers of flooring thoroughly riveted and hung 
 on at least three strong hinges. Let there be one 
 window, a single half sash containing four 12x14 
 lights of glass. Set the window in the same side 
 wall as the door, so that there shall be no draught 
 or chill air to cause stiffness and congestions. Ele- 
 vate the window just high enough so that the horse 
 will have to stand gracefully high-headed to look 
 out of it. This will develop the muscles used in hold- 
 ing the head up, and aid in giving him that nice up- 
 headed carriage of the head and neck which is so 
 desirable in the stallion. 
 
 It is the attention to little things which make great 
 successes, so when you open the door to go in or out 
 of the box stall always lock it, either open or shut. 
 If your horse is inside and the door is ajar he may 
 make a break for liberty and be half frightened to 
 death before he gets through the door, or he may 
 put his head out and the door swing shut and he 
 break his neck struggling for freedom. If he is out 
 in the paddock and the door is not locked, open or 
 shut, he may be ruined by trying to go through a 
 door which suddenly clutches him amidships. Round 
 off the corner of the door jamb, inside and out, it 
 may save your horse from being hipped. 
 
 Let your stallion have the greatest amount of out- 
 door life consistent with good judgment. 
 
 Don't let there be any perceptible stepdown from 
 the floor of the stall into the paddock, and vice versa. 
 
 Have a cross-bar fitted snugly against the bottom 
 of the door outside, and always put it in place at 
 night so that the horse cannot, by a slip, get his foot 
 under the door and thus be ruined. If you use a 
 plank floor, take a 2x4 scantling the length of the 
 stall and nail down parallel with the side wall and 
 
THE HORSEMAN S HANDBOOK. 7 
 
 about three feet therefrom, and fill the inclosure 
 thus made with clear white sand to the depth of two 
 inches; in the summer months wet this down daily 
 with salt water, and you will prevent thrush and 
 promote a healthy growth of hoof much like that re- 
 sulting from a run in a soft pasture. The horse will 
 soon learn to go there and stand. This also serves 
 for a cushion to prevent injurious results to the feet 
 from constant and hard stamping. 
 
 To prevent tail rubbing, hock pounding, and to 
 keep your horse from being hopelessly cast, run an 
 inclined plane side wall all around the bottom of 
 the stall, except at the door. Let it start at the bot- 
 tom eighteen inches in from the side wall and bevel 
 off to meet said wall wherever two 2x14 inch planks 
 will carry it to at the top; brace it up by scantling 
 five feet apart. 
 
 If you use a dirt floor, which is not necessary if 
 one uses the moist sand attachment mentioned above, 
 build up a wainscoting to reach eight inches below 
 the cross and let it stand out at least six inches from 
 the side wall. This will prevent tail rubbing, but 
 not hock pounding, nor will it prevent bad results 
 from the horse being cast. 
 
 The feed box should be broad and flat so that the 
 food may be spread thinly over it to prevent the ill 
 conditions sure to result in the horse from too hasty 
 eating. 
 
 THE PADDOCK. 
 
 The paddock should not be large, for a large pad- 
 dock gives room for an amount of running and jump- 
 ing that is apt to produce such injuries as dislocated 
 stifle, slipping of the stifle cap (Patella), hock puffs, 
 bog spavin, and many others; 50x100 feet is abun- 
 dantly large, and 40 x 60 feet will many times be 
 a better size. The fence should be seven feet high, 
 at least, and if the stallion is inclined to break out 
 it may be higher. It should be a tight board fence 
 reaching quite down to the ground, to prevent the 
 animal's feet from slipping under it, and should be 
 nailed from within against stringers and posts that 
 are without, for a horse will sometimes climb upon 
 
8 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 the stringers to look over the fence and remain there 
 a long time to the injury of tendons and general 
 conformation. 
 
 FOOD. 
 
 Feed a stallion according to his form, appetite and 
 condition. Oats and bran are the principal grains 
 to be fed; corn and barley are sometimes fed, but are 
 not desirable as a steady diet. Plain timothy and 
 marsh or prairie hay, fed on the ground or floor, is 
 the best thing in that line; while cornstalks, grass, 
 potatoes, carrots, sweet turnips, and apples are all 
 admissible in small quantities for the purpose of 
 pleasing the appetite and loosening the bowels. Feed 
 salt every day. The process of feeding in detail is 
 something that is highly important and which 
 requires the greatest degree of skill and watchful- 
 ness. 
 
 To no other part of our general subject can the old 
 proverb, "Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty," 
 be so truly and aptly applied. Study your stallion's 
 droppings every day. Note whether they are fre- 
 quent enough, whether too dry, or too wet, whether 
 the food is perfectly digested as well as perfectly 
 masticated, and whether they contain worms. If you 
 find them too dry or too infrequently voided, you 
 must correct it by giving less grain, and more bran, 
 bran mashes, roots, carrots, potatoes, turnips, apples 
 or grass, and if the exercise has been too little in- 
 crease it. If the bowels are too loose feed less hay, 
 less feed of all kinds, and mix half a pint or pint 
 of wheat flour, which has been scorched to a coffee 
 brown, in each feed of oats for a day or two; very 
 little drugging is necessary at any stage of a horse's 
 existence. If you find that the food comes through 
 the horse imperfectly masticated and undigested, look 
 at the animal's teeth and, if wrong, have them fixed. 
 A tooth may be loose, decayed, split, inflamed, too 
 long, too sharp, or- what not. It is all important to 
 know that the teeth are shed in season. The horse 
 may bolt his food, and thus produce indigestion and 
 its attendant results. A flat feed box, so broken that 
 the food does not cover it to a greater depth than 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 9 
 
 one-half or three-quarters of an inch, is a very good 
 form of a box to prevent bolting of the food; another 
 is to put four or five cobble stones as large as an 
 orange into the common-sized feed box, and still 
 another, a device of my own, is made as follows: A 
 square, flat-bottomed feed box, any size you like; a 
 false bottom made of wire with the meshes about 
 an inch and a half in diameter; put in your feed 
 and drop down your wire bottom on top of the feed; 
 press it down to start the feed through the meshes, 
 and the horse will do the rest. Patent boxes with 
 the "feed" regulated, are in market, and are very 
 good. 
 
 A horse should be watered either half an hour 
 before meals or two hours after, and during hot 
 weather should have half a pailful midway between 
 meals. 
 
 DISEASES. 
 
 If his urine becomes thick, and the remedy here- 
 after given for worms does not correct it, give a tea- 
 spoonful of nitrate of potash in his drinking water 
 morning and night for two or three days. If his 
 water is scant or bloody, or if the act of urinating 
 is painful, he must have ten drops of tincture of 
 cantharides in his drinking water three times a day 
 for three days. If the trouble results from a cold give 
 also ten drops of the tincture of aconite in the same 
 way, in addition to the above. 
 
 The most common disorders which come to a stallion 
 are, first: Colic, which is most always a result of 
 indigestion. The remedy par excellence is: Fluid 
 extract of nux vomica; fluid extract of colocynthis; 
 Fowler's solution of arsenic; of each onr- ounce; mix. 
 Dose: Ten or fifteen drops in a couple of ounces of 
 hot water every fifteen minutes, for three to six doses. 
 Relief will follow in a short time almost certainly. 
 Continue the medicine, one dose after each meal, for 
 three or four days. Injections of hot water, hot as 
 the hand can bear it, and hot applications to the 
 bowels are useful adjuvants in colic. Do not let a 
 horse feed at all for several hours after a spell of 
 indigestion. 
 
10 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 The remedy given above is one of the best in the 
 world to prevent and cure (when curable) heaves. 
 
 Next in frequency and importance comes worms, 
 and the affections resulting from their presence in the 
 ailmentary tract. They are successfully treated by 
 feeding, two or three times a day in the feed, two 
 teaspoonfuls of the following: Powdered areca nut, 
 one pound; powdered copperas, one pound; tartar 
 emetic, three ounces; mix. 
 
 For the removal of pin worms make an infusion of 
 Quassia chips, two ounces to a quart of boiling water, 
 simmer for half hour and cool. Inject half a pint or 
 a pint every morning into the rectum. While the 
 worm powder is being fed (and it should be fed thirty 
 to sixty days), a physic should follow a good bran 
 mash about once in ten days: One ounce of good 
 barbadoes aloes in powder, with one drachm of ginger, 
 in a ball is a good physic. The above treatment is 
 a good one for blood disorders, and surfeit, too, only 
 that, in the latter case, less feed and more exercise 
 must obtain, and thirty drops of Fowler's solution of 
 arsenic must be given in his drinking water three 
 times a day for three weeks in addition. 
 
 Thrush in the feet is a very common and annoying 
 disease in stallions in stud service. The remedy is 
 to prevent it by constant cleanliness and watchfulness. 
 If any sign of thrush appear, pour into the spaces 
 and cleft of the frog, once a day, a spoonful or two of 
 a six per cent, solution of chloride of zinc. This will 
 cure it, if properly done; as the foot improves use 
 the solution less frequently. 
 
 If a horse rubs his tail or mane he is surfeited, 
 has worms, or is lousey. The remedy for the first 
 two is given above, for the latter, apply once a day 
 to the affected surface a mixture of kerosene oil and 
 lard, one teaspoonful of the oil to each ounce of lard. 
 
 Influenza, distemper and strangles are, practically 
 speaking, members of the same family, and require 
 pretty much the same treatment. I have had splendid 
 success from the following treatment: At the onset 
 of the disease give ten drops of tincture of aconite 
 In a little water, every two hours, for two days. Then 
 follow with ten drop doses of the following: Iodide 
 
The Horseman's handbook. 11 
 
 of arsenic, two drachms; fluid extract of bryonia 
 alba, two drachms; alcohol, four ounces; mix. A 
 does of ten to twenty drops in a little water every 
 two or three hours for several days, will surely 
 modify most cases and will abort and cure many 
 times. At such times one of the first things is to opeu 
 up the bowels with bran mashes and a dose of an 
 ounce of pulverized aloes, to which a drachm of 
 ginger has been added, is just the thing. 
 
 If the stallion shows signs of becoming impotent, 
 see to it that he does not masturbate, give him plenty 
 of work, attend to his blood, teeth, and general con- 
 dition, and give the following mixture: Fluid extract 
 nux vomica, twenty drops; fluid extract damiana, two 
 drachms; Merrill's tincture of phosphorous, ten drops 
 Give this amount in an ounce or two of water, at 
 one dose, three times a day, for two or three months. 
 If not very bad he can have one mare a week; if 
 quite bad, none at all for the season, and only one 
 or two a week the next season. 
 
 EXERCISE. 
 
 A stallion kept for stud purposes should have reg- 
 ular road work every day. Let him be hardened 
 gradually and then give him from ten to fourteen 
 miles a day, over road or track, or both. Drive him 
 on a walk the first mile out of the barn, then jog 
 and walk alternately the balance of the route; give 
 him no hard speeding, but a little brush, at two-third3 
 his speed rate, is allowable. Let him sweat a little 
 coming home. After his exercise see to it that he is 
 protected from draughts of cold air, and give no grain 
 for an hour and a half. He may have three or four 
 swallows of water as he comes into the barn, but no 
 more until half an hour before feeding. 
 
 GROOMING. 
 
 An old dull curry comb, a root brush, and a bristle 
 brush, followed by a flannel cloth, are the things to 
 use in cleaning and polishing his coat; use them In 
 the order in which they are mentioned, and use them 
 liberally every day. 
 
12 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 SERVING MARES. 
 
 In serving a mare, have her securely hoppled, lead 
 the stallion up towards her flank, with his hind quar- 
 ters a little nearer her head than her tail. When 
 he is ready let him approach her flank, when he will 
 whirl and mount all right. The mare's tail must 
 be bandaged well, for the hairs might easily ruin a 
 stallion's yard by cutting if allowed to be crowded in 
 ahead of the same. 
 
 Stallions often come off "proud," that is to say, 
 they do not eject their seed. In such cases see to it 
 that he does not masturbate, and give him more exer- 
 cise and less feed. 
 
 It is easy to detect the passage of the seed during 
 the act by putting the fore finger against the under- 
 side of the yard; if a cover has been properly made 
 the impulse throb will be plainly felt. This is a cer- 
 tain and easy test. 
 
 If a stallion comes off "proud," lead him away and 
 let him walk around for ten or fifteen minutes and 
 try again. 
 
 In teasing a mare compel your stallion to keep 
 within the limits between her hips and shoulders, his 
 nose has no business in front of the shoulders nor 
 behind her coupling. After the horse has covered the 
 mare and is about to dismount, a good groom in 
 charge of the mare will quickly turn the mare a step 
 or two towards the left (towards the stallion groom) ; 
 this facilitates the dismounting very much. 
 
 AMOUNT OF DAILY SERVICE. 
 
 No stallion of two years of age should serve more 
 than one mare per week, and ten mares during the 
 season. A stallion of three years may have twenty 
 mares, well scattered, through a three months' season. 
 A four-year-old may serve forty mares, but should not 
 cover but one mare a day. An aged-stallion can take 
 care of a mare every day during a three-months' sea- 
 son, and under pressure may make two covers a day 
 occasionally, but the less of double daily-covers the 
 better. 
 
 If a stallion masturbates he must have a shield on 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 13 
 
 night and day. A good root brush fastened to a sur- 
 cingle and buckled loosely about the loins makes a 
 cheap and satisfactory shield. There are, however, 
 many shields in the market. I like the all-rubber 
 ones best. 
 
 Be very regular and methodical in all your dealings 
 with the stallion. Do not jerk, swear at or excite him. 
 
 If you whip at all, do it without anger or loud 
 voice; do it to teach him, not to punish. When you 
 lead him through a gate or door, precede him, other- 
 wise he will soon learn to go in or through with a 
 rush. 
 
 Treat your stallion like your younger brother; set 
 him a good example and you'll find him pretty nearly 
 as good a Christian as most people are. 
 
 — C. M. Babcock, M. D. 
 
 SHAKESPEARE'S IDEAL HORSE. 
 
 In the beautiful poem of "Venus and Adonis," writ- 
 ten about 1590, William Shakespeare thus described 
 his ideal of a perfect horse — the horse of Adonis: 
 
 Look, when a painter would surpass the life 
 In limning out a well-proportion'd steed, 
 
 His art with nature's workmanship at strife, 
 As if the dead the living should exceed; 
 
 So did this horse excel a common one 
 
 In shape, in courage, color, pace and bone. 
 
 Round-hoof'd, short-jointed, fetlocks shag and long, 
 Broad breast, full eye, small head and nostril wide, 
 
 High crest, short ears, straight legs and passing strong. 
 Thin mane, thick tail, broad buttock, tender hide; 
 
 Look, what a horse should have he did not lack, 
 
 Save a proud rider on so proud a back. 
 
 Sometimes he scuds far off, and there he stares; 
 
 Anon he starts at stirring of a feather; 
 To bid the wind a base he now prepares, 
 
 And when he run or fly they know not whether; 
 For through his mane and tail the high wind sings, 
 Fanning the hairs, who wave like feather'd wings. 
 
14 THE HORSEMAN S HANDBOOK. 
 
 THE BREEDING SEASON. 
 
 Not all breeders realize the importance of the 
 events with which the breeding season is attended. 
 An error in judgment at this time may undo the work 
 of years; and the destinies of individuals, families, 
 and races of animals and even fortunes may be de- 
 termined by a single act. Therefore, it is a season 
 which should be anticipated and planned for as the 
 most crucial period in the breeder's year. Whether 
 horsemen have a band of brood mares or but one, they 
 should give careful thought and attention to the colt 
 crop, present and prospective. It is necessary to ar- 
 range, first, for the accommodation of the bred mares 
 while heavy, and with the foals at foot; they then 
 will probably be bred again and there may be others 
 to be mated for the first time, so that the available 
 stallions must be given due consideration. 
 
 The natural time for foals to arrive is the spring, 
 and under ordinary conditions, especially in breeding 
 studs, this is customary. However, nature is per- 
 verted in many ways by modern methods of domesti- 
 cation, so there are circumstances which make it 
 more desirable to raise fall colts. With good stables, 
 abundance of food and the necessary help, there is no 
 reason why mares should not be made to foal in the 
 fall, if it is more convenient to have them do so. 
 This may be the case with farm mares which are ex- 
 pected to do the season's work in addition to raising 
 a colt. In fact, if one is forced to choose between a 
 spring foal, with no chance to properly favor the 
 mare, and a fall colt which arrives and is suckled 
 while the mare is laid by, the choice of the latter 
 would be more desirable. During the winter, however, 
 both mares and foals will require more attention and 
 should not be "roughed through." But, by late foal- 
 ing the youngsters can be given a good start before 
 they are set back by the inevitable short pastures and 
 flies of mid summer. 
 
 Of course, breeders of race and show horses take 
 every advantage of the age limit and therefore favor 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 15 
 
 early foaling. There are also the unquestioned bene- 
 fits to be derived from the life in the open and the 
 new grass, to commend the spring time for foaling, 
 but prejudice against the late date is not altogether 
 warranted and circumstances may be such as to make 
 it most advantageous. 
 
 The feed, work and care at and after foaling are of 
 most importance in connection with the mare. Food 
 and exercise together so regulate the condition of the 
 mare as to determine success or failure in the pro- 
 duction of a colt. It is a matter of give and take be- 
 tween them, and the great success follows the prac- 
 tice which maintains a balance between the two. This 
 balance is manifest by the condition which is indica- 
 tive of the greatest activity of the vital functions, 
 i. e., vigor, expressed in the clear eye, the sleek coat, 
 and the keen appetite which the feeder describes as 
 "hearty," together with a general evidence of nerve 
 and muscle tone. The mare in this condition will 
 carry no superfluous flesh, but is herself sufficiently 
 well nourished to insure ample nutriment for the per- 
 fect development of the foetus or foal. It may be said 
 the ideal conditions for the brood mare, namely, those 
 in which the balance between food and exercise is 
 most easily maintained, and food of the best sort se- 
 cured, are those surrounding mares at pasture. Fresh 
 air and sunshine, without exposure, freedom to move 
 about at will, with little danger of slips or fatigue, 
 and an abundance of nutritious, succulent forage 
 furnishing the elements essential to growth of the 
 foal and the production of milk by the dam are the 
 things Nature has provided at the season of the year 
 when most females naturally bring forth their young. 
 These can hardly be improved upon, and if they must 
 be modified or substituted for on account of economy, 
 they should still be the standard by which other sys- 
 tems are measured. However, the average farmer 
 must breed his working mares, or work his brood 
 mares. The question which confronts him is how to 
 secure natural conditions for his mares while per- 
 forming artificial service. 
 
 It must be borne in mind that food furnishes pn 
 
16 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 ergy and tissue-forming material, and that the per- 
 formance of work requires energy and uses up tissue. 
 Thus the balance between them is maintained. The 
 mare at work is just as well off in the matter of ex- 
 ercise, fresh air, and sunshine as the one at pasture, 
 but she has imposed upon her labor which demands 
 more energy and uses more tissue-building material. 
 She is also subject to fatigue, mechanical injuries, 
 and nervous disturbances that never come to the 
 mare at pasture. 
 
 In general, the management of the brood mare 
 should have for its object the feeding of such a ra- 
 tion as will supply the demand for energy and tissue, 
 and still allow ample nourishment for the develop- 
 ment of the foal, either before or after birth, to- 
 gether with such a regulation of the work as will pro- 
 tect the mare from becoming tired, overheated, or in- 
 jured in any way. She must not be fretted by another 
 horse, nor by a rough hand, while heavy, jerky pulls, 
 extreme speed, rough saddle work, or jumping are to 
 be strictly prohibited. But to work a mare up to 
 within a month of foaling and then confine her in a 
 stall with no exercise whatever, is almost as injuri- 
 ous as to begin working her hard after ten months 
 rest, following breeding. It is not unusual for mares 
 to foal successfully while in the field at work, but it 
 is safer to gradually diminish the work, so that dur- 
 ing the last few weeks of pregnancy only the lightest 
 work or exercise in a yard is taken. 
 
 It is a peculiar fact, that while the two extremes 
 in condition are both unfavorable to breeding, statis- 
 tics indicate that the birth rate among nations has 
 shown a marked increase following devastation by 
 war and famine, conditions of life in which the fe- 
 males become reduced to the extreme of low condition. 
 This would seem to be in response to a natural law 
 for the preservation of the race, and need not be 
 taken to indicate that starvation and extremely low 
 conditions are favorable to reproduction. It is true 
 that a thin mare is more apt to breed than a pampered 
 one, but a mare in low condition has no reserve on 
 which to draw for the nourishment and growth of her 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 17 
 
 colt. Her whole system is in an impoverished con- 
 dition which must be corrected before the nutrients 
 can be available for the growth of the foal. 
 
 The quality of the ration is of as much importance 
 as the quantity. Fat production is to be avoided, and 
 the formation of blood, muscle and bone sought in- 
 stead. Hence, food stuffs rich in protein and ash, 
 such as oats, bran, clover, and alfalfa are to be pre- 
 ferred to the starchy foods like corn. A useful ration 
 for the brood mare is the following: Ground oats, 
 four parts; wheat middlings, five parts; linseed meal, 
 one part; with clover or alfalfa for roughage if bright 
 and properly cured, and the mare is not at work. For 
 mares at hard work leguminous roughage is not to be 
 commended. 
 
 The state of mind of the mare about to foal is 
 worthy of some consideration. Many individuals, 
 especially high bred ones of the hotter blooded breeds, 
 are of an extremely nervous temperament, and it is 
 important to secure for such mares, peace of mind as 
 well as of body. Any change in stalls or attendants, 
 with a view of securing greater convenience at foal- 
 ing time, should be made early enough to permit the 
 mare to become thoroughly familiar with her sur- 
 roundings before the critical time arrives. To remove 
 the mare to a strange stall, perhaps even to a strange 
 stable, away from customary stable mates and attend- 
 ants, but in the presence of strangers, immediately 
 before foaling, is not conducive to that peace of mind 
 so essential at this time. The presence of a male, 
 the use of drastic medicines, surgical operations, and 
 so forth, should be carefully avoided. 
 
 The tendency of pregnant females to fatten as preg- 
 nancy advances must be guarded, as they may become 
 so fat as to interfere with the development of the foal, 
 cause abortion, or trouble at birth. Just before and 
 after foaling, the ration of the dam should be light- 
 ened and made more laxative by the addition of bran, 
 either dry or in a mash, to be continued until both 
 dam and foal have fully recovered from the ordeal 
 through which which they have just passed. Exercise 
 should be permitted after the system of the mare has 
 re-adjusted itself, but regular work should not be 
 
18 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 begun inside of three weeks. It is better still not to 
 work the mare until the foal is weaned. 
 
 It is imperative that the new-born foal get the first 
 milk from the dam. This fore-milk looks thick and 
 yellow, and is sometimes drawn off as unfit for the 
 foal, but such a practice is a common cause of death 
 to the foal two or three days after birth. This colos- 
 trum, as the first milk is called, is a natural purga- 
 tive for the removal of the material which has ac- 
 cumulated in the foal's digestive tract during devel- 
 opment. Its prompt removal is essential to the life 
 of the colt. During the existence of the foal as a 
 suckling some especial precautions must be taken in 
 addition to those already mentioned. The milk flow 
 must be maintained by succulent forage, the colt must 
 be fed often and the dam must at no time be in such 
 condition as to render the milk injurious to the foal. 
 
 Most breeders advise leaving the colt in the stable 
 while the dam is at work, but others allow the colt 
 to follow the dam to the field. The objection to the 
 former method is that unless the mare is returned at 
 least once during each half day the colt becomes very 
 hungry, and when the mare comes to him sweating, 
 he gorges himself on the milk with which her udder 
 is distended. This milk is often rendered injurious 
 by the heated condition of the mare, and it thus be- 
 comes a cause of serious digestive disorders, espe- 
 cially when so much is taken. It is a good thing to 
 encourage the colt as it grows older to take a few 
 oats, preferably ground, from its mother's allowance; 
 or a creep may be constructed especially for the colt 
 to feed in. If two mares and foals are allowed to- 
 gether, the youngsters will form an attachment for 
 each other which will prove of great service in recon- 
 ciling them to the weaning process. 
 
 Observations have shown that a mare may be bred 
 with greater certainty of success on the ninth day 
 after foaling than at any subsequent date. It is also 
 known that mares which have their sexual ardor 
 somewhat suppressed by a moderate degree of fatigue 
 are more apt to conceive than mares in an extremely 
 nervous condition at the time of service. It is for 
 this purpose that the Arab gives his mare a sharp 
 run just prior to service. N. B. Critchfield. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 19 
 
 CHAPTEK II. 
 
 CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF BROOD MARES. 
 
 As this article does not treat of the selection of 
 the brood mare, it is to be supposed that we have an 
 animal sound in every way, and free from all defects 
 and diseases that are liable to be transmitted. Nearly 
 all diseases which equine flesh is heir to are hered- 
 itary, or the constitution or conformation likely to 
 contract disease is transmitted, and, consequently, the 
 greatest care should be taken to ascertain that' the 
 mare be sound in every respect. The importance of 
 giving a mare proper care cannot be underestimated, 
 for in proportion as we are successful with our mares 
 will our breeding ventures prove profitable. 
 
 The breeders of the trotting horse in America are 
 divided into three classes: the city breeder, who 
 breeds one or two mares, and who, having no farm 
 keeps them in the city; the small farmer, who breeds 
 trotters on the side, so to speak, and the large breeder 
 of unlimited means and facilities; all requiring more 
 or less different care and management for their 
 mares. The limits of this article not admitting of a 
 detailed treatment of each class, the subject must 
 be handled in a general way, leaving the astute 
 breeder to make his own deductions as to what will 
 suit his particular case. 
 
 GETTING MARES IN FOAL. 
 
 In the first place the all-important thing is to get 
 your mare in foal, and right here I would say that a 
 mare should not be bred before her three-year-old 
 form, my plan being to endeavor as much as possible 
 to have the yearling filly develop as much in bone and 
 stature as possible, and then train her in her two- 
 
20 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 year-old form, getting a record if possible, but avoid 
 over-taxing her. It may happen that you have a 
 phenomenal, in which case you will do well to defer 
 her breeding until she has made a reputation on the 
 turf, thereby adding greatly to her own value as well 
 as to that of her produce. Adopting this course, 
 then, we have as a three-year-old a fully developed 
 and almost matured animal. I would not breed her 
 before March 1, in northern climates, as I find that 
 previous to that time mares almost invariably fail to 
 catch. My plan is to try the mare three times a 
 week until we catch her in the season, and when 
 served to place her in a quiet place alone for a few 
 hours. It is the general method not to return the 
 mare again until the twenty-first day, but I have 
 found it a good plan to return her at the fourteenth, 
 eighteenth, twenty-first, twenty-fourth and twenty- 
 eighth days, as I find that mares are just as apt 
 to come in season on any of the dates named as on 
 the twenty-first. If she refuses the horse on each of 
 these occasions I try her three times a week there- 
 after for two weeks, and if, at the end of that time 
 she still refuses, then twice a week for two months, 
 and if at the end of that time she still refuses, she 
 may be considered safely in foal. My reason for being 
 so thorough in this respect is that the liability of fall- 
 ing to get the mare in foai will be lessened. A val- 
 uable mare bred to a high-priced horse, and failing to 
 get in foal, loses not only what might have been a val- 
 uable colt, but suffers a loss which is irreparable, for 
 that year of her life, as a breeder, has been lost 
 irretrievably. It behooves us then to use every pre- 
 caution in order to insure her fertility. 
 
 CARE DURING PREGNANCY. 
 
 Now as to her care during pregnancy. A mare in 
 pasture will receive all the nourishment she requires, 
 and will take all the exercise she needs, but if you are 
 mindful, however, to feed her a little grain it will 
 only do her good, as she will relish the change, and 
 all good grains being blood producers, it will be of 
 benefit to the growing foetus. That a mare In foal 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 21 
 
 can be worked is not only true, but I believe, if the 
 proper care is taken, it is beneficial. Many are the 
 instances where a mare in foal has fought out hard 
 races and gained a low mark in the early stages of 
 her pregnancy, and the experiment has been fraught 
 with nothing but good to both mare and colt. The 
 greatest care should, however, be exercised to avoid 
 all slips or unnatural strains, as such generally result 
 In painful injuries, ending in abortion. 
 
 ABORTION. 
 
 Kicks, strains, falls and unusual excitement are, of 
 course, the known causes for abortion, but there are 
 many cases which defy the skill of the veterinarian in 
 detecting the cause. My experience has been that a 
 mare will abort within twenty-four hours after being 
 attacked with pinkeye, and from post-mortem exam- 
 inations held on mares which have died out of a herd, 
 a majority of which aborted, I concluded that, though 
 not apparent to outside observation, the mares were 
 suffering from what might be termed bilious influ- 
 enza. Treatment in such cases I believe to be useless, 
 as the mare will slip her colt despite all efforts. In 
 the cases of those mares that have aborted, when 
 about four months gone in foal, the following year, 
 I find that feeding them wheat and a little hemp 
 seed and black haw is beneficial in preventing them 
 from aborting again. 
 
 In the fall, mares in pasture should be taken up 
 before the herbage gets too scant, as it is very essen- 
 tial to keep the mare in good condition, but not fat. 
 Ground oats and bran, with hay and a few carrots 
 will keep them in ordinary flesh and good condition 
 if fed with judgment. They should be allowed to 
 run out during the day, but in no case be exposed to 
 severe weather, and at this time the greatest care 
 should be taken to prevent injuries of any sort. The 
 mare should have a box stall about 12x12, well lighted 
 and ventilated, and which, above all things, should be 
 kept thoroughly clean and well bedded. 
 
 FOALING TIME. 
 
 As the period of gestation draws to an end, which 
 
22 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 lasts all the way from a little more than 300 to a 
 little less than 400 days, and commonly about 340 
 days, a close watch should be kept on the mare, as it 
 may be necessary to assist nature. The signs of par- 
 turition are generally a sinking in about the flanks, 
 just under the hips, and the filling out of the teata. 
 If everything is all right the colt will come without 
 any aid, and in such cases do not interfere, for if 
 mare and colt are all right they will take care of 
 themselves. Should the colt come wrong, that is, not 
 in the natural position, then assistance is necessary. 
 Anyone with a little experience and a little common 
 sense, by means of foaling hooks and other veterinary 
 instruments, can readily assist the mare, and assist- 
 ance must be prompt, for if the assistance of a 
 veterinarian cannot be secured at short notice, the 
 chances are that, if left in this condition for an 
 hour or two, both mare and foal will be lost. A man 
 cannot be told how to act in such cases, however, as 
 the use of instruments must be learned by practical 
 demonstration. There is one case, however, which 
 occasionally occurs that can be readily remedied by 
 any one, and that is where the colt is foaled in the 
 sac, in which case the colt should at once be liberated, 
 as otherwise it will soon smother. 
 
 The attendant should not leave the mare and foal 
 until he is satisfied that neither need further assist- 
 ance. He must see to it that the foal stands up and 
 a little tepid water should be injected. The mare, it 
 sucks, and if it fails to do either, must be assisted. 
 He should also see that its bowels move and if not, 
 fed hay and grain at time of foaling, is also liable 
 to be constipated, and this should also be attended to. 
 After foaling and when she gets up I give her a warm 
 mash and some chilled water. After all has been 
 attended to, the mare should be left alone with her 
 foal and kept as quietly as possible, the attendant 
 occasionally looking in to see that nothing has gone 
 wrong. 
 
 IN SEASON AGAIN. 
 
 We will now suppose the mare to have got through 
 all right and nursing her colt. It is the rule that she 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 23 
 
 will be tried on the ninth day after foaling, hut I find 
 many will come in season at the seventh day, and 
 accordingly I try them on that day, and on the eighth, 
 and if not too cross, or fighting the stallion too much, 
 I serve them on the ninth day whether they are in 
 season or not, for if that date is allowed to pass in 
 some cases they get so attached to their colt, and 
 get so cross and ugly that they will not allow the 
 stallion to come near them. In such cases I also 
 try them every day for several days, but if not, I pro- 
 ceed as described in the beginning of this article. 
 
 A good deal has been written and said about milk- 
 producing food, but the only true milk-producing food 
 is rich grass, and the sooner the mare can get this 
 the better for herself and colt. 
 
 WEANING THE COLT. 
 
 I wean the colts at from five to six months old, 
 my method being to have a small paddock alongside 
 of a field in which the mares and colts are, and by 
 means of a fence, built in such a way that the colts 
 can get underneath it but not the mother. In the 
 paddock, or small field, are troughs in which grain 
 is put, and from which the youngsters soon learn to 
 eat. The colts are then taken up and put two In a 
 box stall, and the mares in the meantime fed dry 
 feed, and their udder rubbed with hog's lard or cam- 
 phorated oil, if necessary, and the operation is com- 
 plete. 
 
 In laying down these rules it must be understood 
 that no fixed regulations can be framed that will 
 apply In all cases, as there will be exceptions and 
 peculiar cases that will undermine all theories or 
 axioms. Above everything else a breeder must have 
 and use common sense. 
 
 Henry Laughltn, 
 
 Sup't Uihlein Stock Farm. 
 
.24 
 
 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 PERIODS OF GESTATION. 
 
 Breeders will not fail to appreciate the value and convenience of 
 the table printed below. It shows at a glance when a mare 19 due 
 to foal If bred at a certain date; also when she should be served in 
 order to "come In" at a given time. A mare should carry her foal 
 840 days: 
 
 Time of 
 
 Due 
 
 Time of 
 
 Due 
 
 Time of 
 
 Due 
 
 Time of 
 
 Due 
 
 Service 
 
 to Foal 
 
 Service 
 
 to Foal 
 
 Service 
 
 to Foal 
 
 Service 
 
 to Foal 
 
 Jan. 6 
 
 Dec. ll 
 
 Aprilli 
 
 Mar. 16 
 
 July 10 
 
 June 14 
 
 Oct. 8 
 
 Sept. 12 
 
 " 11 
 
 " 16 
 
 " 16 
 
 " 21 
 
 " 15 
 
 " 19 
 
 " 13 
 
 M 17 
 
 " 16 
 
 " 21 
 
 •i 21 
 
 " 29 
 
 11 20 
 
 " 24 
 
 " 18 
 
 " 22 
 
 " 21 
 
 " 26 
 
 " 26 
 
 " 31 
 
 " 25 
 
 •■' 29 
 
 " 23 
 
 11 27 
 
 " 26 
 
 " 31 
 
 May l 
 
 April 5 
 
 " 80 
 
 July 4 
 
 " 28 
 
 Oct. 2 
 
 " 81 
 
 Jan. 6 
 
 6 
 
 " 10 
 
 Aug. 9 
 
 ■i 14 
 
 Nov. 2 
 
 " 7 
 
 Feb. 5 
 
 " 10 
 
 " li 
 
 11 15 
 
 " 14 
 
 " 19 
 
 ii 7 
 
 " 12 
 
 M 10 
 
 " 15 
 
 " 16 
 
 " 20 
 
 " 19 
 
 " 24 
 
 " 12 
 
 ii 17 
 
 " 15 
 
 " 20 
 
 " 21 
 
 " 25 
 
 M 24 
 
 " 29 
 
 I. 17 
 
 M 22 
 
 " 20 
 
 " 25 
 
 " 26 
 
 " 30 
 
 " 29 
 
 Aug. 8 
 
 " 22 
 
 ., 27 
 
 •' 26 
 
 " 30 
 
 «* 31 
 
 May 5 
 
 Sept. 3 
 
 8 
 
 " 27 
 
 Nov. l 
 
 Mar. 7 
 
 Feb. 9 
 
 June 5 
 
 " 10 
 
 8 
 
 " 13 
 
 Dec. 7 
 
 " 11 
 
 " 12 
 
 " H 
 
 " 10 
 
 " 15 
 
 " 13 
 
 " 18 
 
 " 12 
 
 " 16 
 
 n 1? 
 
 " *9 
 
 M 15 
 
 " 20 
 
 " 18 
 
 " 23 
 
 .. , 7 
 
 " 21 
 
 " 22 
 
 " 2 4 
 
 " 20 
 
 " 25 
 
 " 23 
 
 " 28 
 
 " 22 
 
 " 26 
 
 " 27 
 
 Mar. 
 
 " 25 
 
 " 30 
 
 " 28 
 
 Sept. 2 
 
 " 27 
 
 Dec. l 
 
 April l 
 
 M 1 
 
 " 30 
 
 June 4 
 
 Oct. 3 
 
 " 7 
 
 " 81 
 
 " 6 
 
 6 
 
 " 11 
 
 July 6 
 
 " 9 
 
 
 
 
 
 ARTIFICIAL IMPREGNATION. 
 
 Many breeders in these days consider an artificial 
 impregnator for barren mares and irregular breeders, a 
 necessary part of a breeders equipment. Full particulars 
 on this subject can be had by getting a free copy of the 
 booklet as per the advertisement in the back of this book* 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 25 
 
 CHAPTEK III. 
 
 CARE, BREAKING AND DEVELOPING OF COLTS. 
 
 It has been truly said that "goods properly bought 
 are half sold." It is equally true that a colt properly 
 bred is more than half developed. Hence, to insure 
 the best possible results in the development of the 
 trotting bred colt, it is quite essential that he be 
 provided with ancestors of that ilk, and the more 
 Illustrious performers and producers his pedigree con- 
 tains the better for all concerned, supplemented 
 always, however, with a subject of individual excel- 
 lence. Therefore, look well to the individuality, the 
 breeding and performance of his ancestors. When 
 these are satisfactory you may proceed to his develop- 
 ment with all assurance of success. 
 
 CARE OF THE COLT. 
 
 We will assume that all the ante-natal precautions 
 have been carefully taken and the prospective record- 
 breaker makes his advent into the world some fine 
 spring morning. Now, whether the colt be a trotter, 
 bred in the purple, a thoroughbred, draft bred, or a 
 grade, his early education should be essentially the 
 same. When a few hours old, at most but a few days, 
 the colt must be handled and petted until he becomes 
 entirely fearless of the approach of man. This is to 
 be kept up from day to day, or from time to time. 
 At first put a little fine sugar in his mouth, soon he 
 will learn to like it; then teach him to take a small 
 lump of sugar; afterwards teach him to eat pieces of 
 apple and carrots from your hand. Very early give 
 him a name, and teach him to come when called. Call 
 him by his name. 
 
26 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 EDUCATING THE COLT. 
 
 I prefer the term educating to breaking the colt, 
 though it matters little what you call it if properly 
 conducted. However, his education is to be com- 
 menced while he is yet very young and unable to 
 offer much resistance, even if he has the disposition 
 to do so. He is now to be taught to submit to control, 
 one of the most vital fundamental principles in his 
 present and future education and usefulness. 
 
 Proceed as follows: Place one hand back of his 
 hind quarters and the other under his neck. In this 
 way you can control him. You can compel him to 
 move forward, backward, or to stand. Tell him "go 
 on," then move him forward; then "whoa," and make 
 him stop. Teach him to back. Repeat these lessons 
 often, but always make them short, and always 
 reward him with a lump of sugar, a piece of apple, or 
 something he likes. 
 
 Having progressed thus far with his education he 
 may now be taught to lead. Place on his head a light, 
 nicely fitting halter. Take the strap in the left hand, 
 place the right hand back of his hind quarters, as 
 before, draw very tightly on the strap, telling him 
 "go on." With a little practice he will soon yield to 
 the strap. 
 
 Since there will be many colts which will not enjoy 
 the advantages of the early education herein de- 
 scribed, I will here submit an effectual method for 
 speedily "breaking" them to lead. Often the colt is 
 allowed to run in pasture with his dam, with no 
 attempt to handle him till weaning time, when he will 
 be strong, wild and quite opposed to all restraint, 
 which being the case I will here give you a method of 
 breaking him to lead, or, in fact, any colt of any age, 
 that is worth more than $100 to anyone who has colts 
 to handle. By this method any colt, young or old, 
 can be taught to lead in a few minutes without dan- 
 ger of hurting him, or of his acquiring any vicious 
 habits. Take a light rope about thirty feet long, or 
 longer, double it in the middle, drop the center, or 
 where it is doubled, over the colt's rump, down a 
 little below where the breeching rests. Slip the hand 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 27 
 
 back on the double rope, a little back of the withers, 
 and there tie a knot. Now bring the two loose ends 
 of the rope, one on each side of the colt's neck, and 
 through the ring, or chin-strap of the halter. Step in 
 front of the colt, pulling lightly on the ropes, saying: 
 "Come here." The colt will at once step forward, and 
 by proper management, in a very short time be 
 taught to lead anywhere. When first tying him in 
 the stall run the ropes through the stall ring and tie 
 the halter-strap to them, so that if he backs up he will 
 draw up the ropes, and he will learn to stand hitched 
 without pulling on the halter. 
 
 FEEDING THE COLT. 
 
 From the time the colt is old enough to eat, if run- 
 ning in the pasture with his dam, he should have a 
 box in some place where he can be fed all the oats 
 and bran he will eat. A pen can be arranged in some 
 corner where convenient, and where the colts can 
 walk in and the larger horses can not. By feeding 
 the colt in this way the strain on his dam will not 
 be so great, the colt will grow better and stronger, 
 with scarcely any interruption in his growth at time 
 of weaning. 
 
 When weaned two or three colts should be placed 
 in a large, well lighted and well ventilated, comfort- 
 able box-stall, with paddock attached, the larger the 
 better, with a door connecting the two. They should 
 have the free run of both in good weather, shutting 
 them up in the box in bad weather and cool nights. 
 
 The box is to be kept thoroughly clean and con- 
 stantly supplied with an abundance of clean, dry bed- 
 ding. 
 
 During the winter the colt must have an abundance 
 and variety of food — good, bright timothy and clover 
 hay, corn fodder, oats, bran, carrots, occasionally 
 some corn, a lump or box of salt where he can get it 
 when he wants it, with free access to water, or fre- 
 quently watered. 
 
 During the summer he should be allowed a daily 
 run to grass, or have it cut for him, with grain and 
 hay. 
 
28 THE HORSEMAN'S handbook. 
 
 CARE OF THE COLT'S FEET. 
 
 Too much stress cannot be placed upon the impor- 
 tance of caring for the colt's feet. One of the essen- 
 tial items of his early education is to have his feet 
 handled. From thence on the feet are to be regularly 
 shaped and leveled. About all the implements needed 
 are a foot-hook and rasp. The foot is first to be 
 leveled from the bottom, the heels properly lowered 
 and then the shell at the edges rounded up. The frog 
 should never be cut nor the sole shaved out. The 
 feet should be picked out and examined daily. 
 
 BREAKING THE COLT TO DRIVE. 
 
 The time has now arrived when the colt is to be 
 broken to harness. If the colt has always been petted 
 as he should be and has no fear of man, there will be 
 but little trouble. If not properly treated there is 
 danger of his becoming sullen or stubborn before he 
 has learned this "new departure," so unlike all that 
 has been previously taught him and required of him. 
 Put a "biting-rig" or single harness on him, with an 
 open bridle, put up the check very loosely and turn 
 him into a small paddock. Scare him a little in some 
 way to make him start up. At the same time say 
 "go on," "get up," or whatever term you choose to use 
 for starting him. Practice in this way for a little 
 while until he learns to start and stop at the proper 
 commands. Then get a light buggy whip, crack it or 
 touch him lightly on the rump when starting him up. 
 
 When he thoroughly understands all this and the 
 use of the whip, put the lines on him, running them 
 back through the shaft lugs instead of the terret 
 rings, so he can be prevented from turning around, 
 and thus teach him all about driving, starting, stop- 
 ping and turning. 
 
 "Make haste slowly." Make all his lessons short, 
 and by repetitions impress each point upon his mind. 
 At all times be very kind and considerate, remember- 
 ing he is perfectly willing to do what is required of 
 him if he understands. 
 
 Do not scold him and don't swear at him. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 29 
 
 After each short lesson give him a lump of sugar, 
 an apple or carrot, put him in his box and give him a 
 handful of oats. All these little kind attentions pre 
 serve and cultivate his confidence and disposition. 
 
 While, in many cases, the colt may be hitched up 
 single to the cart without accident, it is always safest 
 and best to drive him several times at first double, 
 with a well broken horse. Afterwards continue his 
 education until he is thoroughly schooled in the art 
 of driving. His lessons should be short and frequent. 
 
 DEVELOPING THE TROTTER. 
 
 Let it be understood at the outset that there is to be 
 a distinction made between developing speed and pre- 
 paring him for a race of heats or for a record. 
 
 Speed at the trot is now what you desire and what 
 you must have before you can win a race or get a 
 record. 
 
 The colt is now thoroughly broken to drive and 
 ready for the first lessons in trotting. These may be 
 given to him on the track, street or on the road, 
 where smooth or level, though ordinarily I prefer to 
 give the horse all his work on the track, and since 
 this is not the practice of most trainers I may digress 
 from my subject a moment to give my reasons. In 
 the first place, I do not deem it necessary to give most 
 horses more than about half as much work as the 
 average trainer gives them when working them for 
 speed. Hence there is not the danger of the horse 
 becoming "track sick," of which they tell. Again, 
 the track, by reason of special preparation, is much 
 smoother, more level and even, consequently much 
 safer than the roads. After the horse has acquired 
 sufficient speed in his preparation for races perhaps 
 he can be worked to advantage on the road, but I 
 doubt it very much, and have never yet found it neces- 
 sary. You will sometimes find a colt that will not 
 try to trot or seem to take any interest in trotting on 
 the track, which, when driven on certain streets or 
 on certain places on the road, will square away and 
 show surprising speed. When this is the case use 
 such places for brushing hi©. 
 
30 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 It will sometimes help the colt to trot to place 
 objects, as sacks filled with straw at intervals for a 
 short distance along near the track or road, for say 
 thirty or forty rods; not near enough to the track to 
 cause him to shy or swerve, hut where he can see 
 them. Take advantage of anything or circumstance 
 that induces the youngster to square away and trot. 
 
 If everything is in readiness to commence the colt's 
 work, hitch him to a light sulky and drive him to 
 the track. Suppose he is a yearling, jog him from a 
 quarter to half a mile; pull him up and let him walk 
 a little distance; start him up on a jog again, and, 
 after going from an eighth to a quarter, commence 
 driving him a little faster, increasing his gait to 
 about half or two-thirds speed for about an eighth; 
 then pull up and let him walk a little farther than 
 before. When he has recovered his breath and has 
 rested from his exertion start him up again, making 
 the brush a little sharper, never more than twenty 
 or thirty rods at first, often less, all to be governed 
 by the circumstances of the case, age, condition, size 
 and strength of the colt. 
 
 Speed is acquired by fast and frequent brushes, 
 whereas long ones are not to the purpose, and, as a 
 rule, give the colt only half as much work as you 
 think you should. At first it is better to work the 
 colt round and round the track, and not back and 
 forth on a stretch or turn, as he will, in that case, get 
 Into the habit of wanting to stop and turn round. 
 
 From two to four miles is usually sufficient work 
 for the yearling, when he can be worked half the time 
 one way of the track and half the other. Have the 
 entire track supplied with eighth poles, carry your 
 timer and keep a record of what the colt is doing. 
 
 Work him eighths till he can trot them as fast as 
 you wish before even driving him fast for a quarter, 
 much less a half or a mile, as is sometimes done, 
 to the great detriment of the colt. If he can't trot 
 an eighth fast he surely can't trot a mile fast. 
 
 The two-year-old, three-year-old, or, in fact, any 
 green horse should be worked for speed on the same 
 general plan, as he is only a "colt of older growth." 
 His work should be commenced in the same way as 
 
THE HORSEMAX*S HANDBOOK. 31 
 
 that of the yearling and increased and varied accord- 
 ing to the requirements of the subject. By working 
 the colt on this plan he is never distressed, never 
 becomes sore or tired. If at any time he appears to 
 be tiring in the least his work should cease for the 
 time, for when exhaustion begins improvement 
 ceases. 
 
 When he has had his work for the day loosen up his 
 check and harness, continue his walking until he is 
 all cooled off, which may be from half a mile to a 
 mile. 
 
 Take him to his stall, give him a little water, 
 sponge out his nose, mouth and eyes, and, if neces- 
 sary, bandage him and put on a blanket; give him a 
 little "refreshment" of some kind, grass, carrots, bran 
 or oats, and let him rest. Never, on any account, take 
 him to his stall reeking and foaming with sweat and 
 let him stand, tied up. while he is vigorously "rubbed 
 out." Possibly this may be necessary in his prepara- 
 tion for races, but never in the development of speed. 
 
 When at any time the horse is brought in hot and 
 sweaty, whether during a race, trial or work-out, 
 shower or sponge him off with warm water, scrape 
 this out, wipe him off, cover him up properly and 
 exercise him till dried out and he will never become 
 cross and irritable, as is the case when "rubbed," as 
 is most frequently the practice. 
 
 When the requisite amount of speed has been 
 developed for an eighth of a mile gradually increase 
 the distance to a quarter. Hold him to the quarter 
 for some considerable time. 
 
 To prepare him to go a mile up start him from the 
 wire slowly, gradually increasing his speed after leav- 
 ing the half-mile pole if on a mile track, or after mak- 
 ing the first round if a half-mile track, and drive 
 him about as fast as he can go from the quarter pole 
 to the wire. This will teach him to finish fast, a very 
 important thing in a race. 
 
 When he will go the last quarter fast enough to suit 
 you work him on the first quarter until he will score 
 down to the wire and make the first quarter satisfac- 
 torily; go up about to the distance pole, turn him 
 around, drive him the first quarter about as fast as 
 
32 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 he can go, jog on around to the half, start him along 
 and make the last quarter as fast as he can. Of 
 course, to do all this will require considerable time, 
 but be patient and allow all the time necessary. 
 
 SHAPING THE COLT'S FEET. 
 
 Due attention must at all times be given to prop- 
 erly shaping the colt's feet. Most horses trot best 
 with long toes, both before and behind, and the heels 
 should be kept quite low to allow the frog to reach 
 the ground and receive a part of the weight, and thus 
 reduce the concussion. When the heels are low and 
 the toes are long a larger bearing surface is thus also 
 afforded to receive the weight of the horse at each 
 stride, besides giving more elasticity to the limb than 
 when the heels are high and the toes short. Under 
 no circumstances should the frog be trimmed nor the 
 sole whittled out. 
 
 SHOEING THE COLT. 
 
 Since, eventually, it will become necessary for the 
 colt to carry shoes, it is well to accustom him to their 
 use quite early in his education. The weight of the 
 shoe must be determined by experiment, always giv- 
 ing preference to a shoe as light as will answer the 
 purpose. Ordinarily a plain front shoe, weighing 
 from three to six ounces will answer to begin with, 
 the shape and weight to be determined by subsequent 
 experiment. The hind shoe may weigh from two 
 and one-half to five ounces, made with outside web 
 longer, trailing from half to three-quarters of an inch, 
 and furnished with a rather short, blunt calk. This 
 form of shoe is suggested because most all horses 
 wear the outside of the hind foot faster than the 
 inside, besides, also, twisting the foot when in the 
 act of lifting it from the grount. The inside of the 
 hind foot should also be made a little lower than the 
 outside, or the outside raised by putting a piece of 
 leather between the foot and shoe. This will cause 
 him to "clear" a little better behind and not strike his 
 shins. The front shoe, especially, should be as thin 
 as practicable, In order to allow frog and sole pres- 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 33 
 
 sure. The action, both before and behind, may be 
 modified by a change in the shoeing. If the action is 
 too high in front, this may be corrected by lowering 
 the heels and lengthening the toes; if too low, by 
 raising the heels and shortening the toes, but this 
 will also shorten the stride, while the other method 
 will lengthen it. 
 
 If it is desired to experiment with shorter toes, 
 supposing now the toes are long, it is not necessary 
 to cut them off, but just make a shoe the desired 
 length, nail it on, and leave the toe intact. On the 
 other hand, if the toes are short, the shoes may be 
 made as long as desired and allowed to project in 
 front of the toe. 
 
 Finally, first give the foot the proper shape; fit the 
 shoe to the foot, do not trim the frog nor shave out 
 the sole; use small nails; do not file the shell to 
 receive the clinches; do not rasp the shell. 
 
 BOOTING THE COLT. 
 
 Too much care cannot be exercised in properly 
 protecting the colt from the beginning by the use of 
 light, nicely-fitting boots. It is not safe to wait till 
 the colt has demonstrated by hurting himself what 
 boots he must have. Such a course is liable to be a 
 costly experiment. Such boots as are proven unneces- 
 sary can then be left off. Whenever the colt has 
 advanced far enough in his work to begin brushing 
 he should be provided with the following boots, others 
 if he seems to need them: Scalpers, quarter-boots, 
 tendon boots, and shin and ankle boots, with speedy- 
 cut attachment. After working for some time, if it is 
 ascertained that some of these boots are not needed 
 they can be left off. 
 
 The perfect trotter is the one that can go without 
 boots, weights, or any other mechanical appliances 
 whatever, but it is not safe to begin that way, as by 
 reason of his striking and hurting himself the colt is 
 liable to acquire bad habits and faulty action, which 
 it may be impossible to ever entirely overcome 
 Verily "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of 
 cure." J. W. Mkbceb. 
 
34 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF CAMPAIGNERS. 
 
 Begin work with your colt as early as convenient, 
 and, in spite of all that is written about tiresome 
 walking and jogging, commence by giving your horse 
 walking exercise. We can only speak in general 
 terms, for the same amount of work of any kind 
 will not do for all horses, but any watchful man that 
 is capable of handling good horses will soon learn 
 what amount is sufficient for the horses under his 
 charge, always being careful not to weary or disgust 
 the horse with his work. On the contrary, have him 
 come in feeling as if he could have done a little more. 
 After he has been walked for several weeks, com- 
 mence jogging, and jog on the road, if practicable, 
 for nothing is so monotonous to both horse and driver 
 as jogging on the track. It also has a tendency to 
 make horses travel low. There being no obstructions 
 for them to raise their feet over, they art apt to get 
 in the habit of slouching along, stumbling and 
 knuckling over, which I have found road-jogging 10 
 correct in a measure, and often entirely overcome. 
 
 Your campaigner should be regularly and carefully 
 fed and watered. My idea of feeding is to regulate 
 the feed to the work, feeding less when the horse is 
 getting slow work and increasing the feed with the 
 work. No set rule can be laid down for all horses as 
 regards quantity, for two horses receiving the same 
 work will require to be fed differently, owing to differ- 
 ence in size, constitution and other reasons that I or 
 no one else can explain. 
 
 We have now got to a point where we can send him 
 along some, but do not give him a full mile at first 
 or you will probably find your horse next day with 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 35 
 
 his ankles puffed and walking gingerly when led out 
 I have seen horses right off pasture speeded a mile, 
 and the driver would wonder what ailed his horse 
 when he found him stocked and feverish, and would 
 probably pronounce him "n. g." which he surely 
 would be if this kind of training was kept up and 
 while on this subject let me say there are more horses 
 knocked out for a season, and some altogether, by 
 speeding them before their legs and feet are seasoned 
 by slow work than lots of people have any idea of. 
 To illustrate, let any man who has not gone out for a 
 walk for as short a space of time as two or three 
 months, cut loose and run 100 or 150 yards as fast 
 as he can, or jump his best eight or ten times, I don't 
 think he would care to repeat it next day. Well, a 
 horse feels just that way, and there is some differ- 
 ence between 150 yards and one mile, and if it is kept 
 up with the horse it is dead sure to "do" him. To 
 resume, then speed your horse short distances at first, 
 and gradually work him up to a mile, and even then 
 do not drive him as fast as he can go unless it be 
 just at the finish. It is not necessary to get all out of 
 a horse there is in him in his work. It is sometimes 
 in his races, but then we are out for blood and 
 glory. 
 
 Many a horse has lost races he could have won by 
 being driven to exhaustion in trials, or in his work, 
 which ever you please to call it, one or two days 
 before his race, and the time would be too short to 
 recuperate. ( I have seen them get such doses that all 
 time was too short.) 
 
 A campaigner should get repeats, and even three or 
 four heats, and more, if necessary, but not until he 
 has been prepared for them by plenty of slow work, 
 for without them he could never stay up in a race of 
 broken heats. What I condemn is driving a horse for 
 all he is worth in his exercise. A campaigner will 
 get all that kind of work in his races that is good 
 for him, and more, too. Let your horse always have 
 a little to go on and he will amply repay you when 
 he is out for the money. Do your hard driving when 
 there is something in sight 
 
36 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 A campaigner should be taught to score well, and a 
 horse with a good head, and the same kind on the 
 driver behind him, with a little practice will soon 
 learn so he can be rated to his driver's wish on com- 
 ing to the wire; and a good scorer is almost half the 
 fight for if your horse gets rattled or excited in scor- 
 ing you may be sure the others will keep him scoring 
 till he is more fit to go to the barn than a race, but as 
 the rattle-heads rarely make campaigners we will say 
 no more of them. They are generally a disappoint- 
 ment financially and in all other ways. 
 
 If possible work your horse in company. You can 
 condition a horse by working him alone, and you can 
 make some speed, but you can not make a cam- 
 paigner. Any horse fit for a campaigner has the 
 spirit of rivalry born and bred in him, and his desire 
 to win is as strong as his driver's, and sometimes 
 far stronger, when, if worked alone, it gets monot- 
 onous, and in a short time your horse will get dis- 
 gusted and not try. You must learn to understand 
 your horse's varying moods. No horse feels the same 
 two days in succession, and for that reason you can 
 not prescribe his work for days ahead. Some jog 
 one day and speed the next, or speed twice a week 
 and jog the intervening days, when, probably if they 
 had consulted the horse's feelings, they would have 
 jagged when speeded, and the reverse. There is 
 altogether too much routine work. If you take 
 your horse out with the intention of speeding 
 him and see he is not feeling just right (and 
 they show it very plainly with their actions, if they 
 can not talk) just forego the pleasure of a fast ride 
 and either give him slow work instead or take him 
 back to the barn, for in trying to get speed out of 
 him when he does not feel that way will probably 
 result in a misunderstanding. He will leave his feet 
 on slight provocation, or on none at all, or do a 
 little hopping or something else which you will be 
 sure to lay to his jimmying, and the whip will be 
 brought into play just to let him know who is behind 
 him and that you will have no monkeying, and a 
 general row will ensue that horse nor driver will 
 probably get over for several days, and when brought 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 37 
 
 out again, even If you have forgotten your little 
 difference of opinion, be sure that the horse has not, 
 and will lok for the same kind of a whirl he got 
 when last hitched and act accordingly, when, if he 
 has been taken back with no work or only a slow 
 jog, he will probably come out next time feeling 
 good and both surprise and please you with his per- 
 formance. 
 
 The management of horses in races depends so 
 much on circumstances that it is very hard to lay 
 any plans. You may make up your mind what you 
 are going to do and something may turn up that 
 will upset your calculations — in fact, is almost sure 
 to; but get as good a start as you can and keep 
 your wits about you ever ready to profit by any mis- 
 take of your opponent, and don't pump your horse 
 out trying to win at the quarter or half-mile pole, for 
 the money is not there, but at the wire. Personally, 
 my experience in races has been in the saddle, and 
 I know that a horse that is able to cover a mile 
 at a fair rate of speed can be pumped out in half 
 the distance if set going from the jump. If a sen- 
 sation is what you are after it is all very well to 
 open a big gap at the .half, but the gap will be ahead 
 of you oftener than behind you at the wire. 
 
 In the stable the horse should have his feed and 
 water regularly, and be kept thoroughly clean and 
 his box the same. His clothing I would make as 
 light as possible, and if he has not been accustomed 
 to any I would not commence it unless it were a light 
 sheet and hood to keep the dust off. I do not beileve 
 in coddling them, especially in the west, where the 
 stables are mere sheds, in many instances, and they 
 have to stand more or less roughing it during the 
 campaign season. If pampered at home, when they 
 get where the are to trot or run the change it too 
 great, the result a cold; the horse has to be scratched 
 and can not fill his engagements. 
 
 Boots, shoes and weights are necessary evils, and 
 the less of any of them you can possibly get along 
 with the better. Like all else about your campaigner, 
 no two of them require the same, and the nearer you 
 can reduce them to a cipher the better for your horse. 
 
38 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 Of course some horses must have them, but what 
 I mean is, don't make them carry a quarter of an 
 ounce more than necesary, which can only be told 
 by experience, and everyone has to figure that out 
 for himself. 
 
 In the care of your horse after a race I believe in 
 leaving nothing undone to properly cool him out and 
 make him comfortable, for no man can have the 
 faintest idea what a horse undergoes to win a hard 
 race, unless it is an athelete who has undergone some- 
 thing similar and he is not urged to his utmost with 
 a whip and can give up and quit when beaten or done 
 up. So he should be blanketed, bandaged, rubbed and 
 walked — yes, and even scraped — and care taken that 
 he does not cool out too fast or catch cold, and should 
 not be left until thoroughly cool and done up if it 
 takes all night. — J. J. Kelly. 
 
 FEED FOR DRIVING HORSES 
 Timothy hay, oats and bran are the safest feeds for 
 road horses. Alfalfa and clover hay are too washy, 
 while corn does not put the necessary mettle into the 
 drivers. Equal parts by weight of cracked corn, 
 crushed oats and wheat bran is an ideal ration for 
 hard-worked roadsters, and will keep them in flesh 
 and spirit. If timothy and alfalfa hay are mixed, two 
 parts of timothy to one of alfalfa, more corn and less 
 hay can be fed. The alfalfa selected should be from 
 the first cutting, and well ripened, rather than of the 
 leafy kind resulting from the last cuttings and so 
 much desired by dairymen. The hay for a driving 
 or saddle horse should all be given at night, when 
 the animal's day's work is finished, for it is taxing to 
 put a driving horse on the road with his stomach 
 full of hay. It takes him about half a day to strike 
 his easy gait under such a system of feeding. Water- 
 ing when the horse is warm must be avoided, al- 
 though a reasonable amount of water taken slowly at 
 broken intervals is not injurious, unless the charge 
 is steaming hot. Chills from standing in drafts or 
 in the open without blankets or protection greatly 
 taxes the endurance of tired or irregularly used driv- 
 ing horses. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 39 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 DISEASES OF HORSES. 
 
 A short description of the principal diseases to 
 which horses are subject has been prepared by the 
 Illinois Department of Agriculture as follows: 
 
 EXTERNAL OPHTHALMIA. 
 
 External opthalmia is an inflammation of the eye- 
 ball, which may be due to an injury, or a blow, or a 
 foreign body in the eye. 
 
 Symptoms.— The eye is kept half closed, as it can- 
 not "tolerate the light, and there is a copious flow of 
 tears. The eyelids are more or less swollen, and upon 
 bringing the internal surface to view, one finds them 
 verv much reddened and inflamed, and the white of 
 the' eye is covered with a network of fine red vessels. 
 The eyeball is found retracted as far as possible, the 
 pupil is widely dilated and very sensitive to light. 
 Often a slight irritation will produce external ophthal- 
 mia. . 
 
 The inflammation of the conjunctive may be simply 
 catarrhal, or of a purulent character, followed by a 
 coating of a membraneous nature (diphtheria). 
 
 PERIODIC OPHTHALMIA — MOONBLINDNESS. 
 
 Symptoms.— This disease of the eye is peculiar to 
 horses and mules. The eye is intolerant of light, the 
 eyeball is drawn backward within its socket, and on 
 this account appears smaller than its fellow. The 
 conjunctiva exhibits slight swelling and reddening. 
 The cornea near its outer border exhibits a well 
 marked ring. As the disease advances, the interior 
 of the eye loses its brilliancy and transparency. A 
 purulent exudate in the aqueous humor and the con- 
 traction of the pupil hide from view all the internal 
 parts of the eye. The iris may adhere to the cystal- 
 line lens. As the disease progresses the eye clears up 
 somewhat and the exudate, before of a brownish hue, 
 
40 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 changes to a sort of grayish color, and part of it 
 becomes absorbed. 
 
 The symptoms of the disease occur very suddenly, 
 often appearing during the night. In the morning 
 the eye will be found closed. A copious secretion of 
 tears flows down over the cheek. The white of the 
 whole anterior (front) chamber is dim and clouded, 
 the dimness increases rapidly, and in two or three 
 days a yellow spot appears at the bottom of the cav- 
 ity. Owing to the formation of pus, this may last 
 from seven to twenty days. The recurrence is the 
 characteristic feature of the affection. The attack 
 may vary in severity in different cases, but the re- 
 peated attacks in each case grow more severe until 
 total loss of sight ensues. Five to eight attacks com- 
 monly result in blindness. Usually after the first at- 
 tack a bluish ring around the corneal margin may be 
 seen. Both eyes are rarely attacked at the same time; 
 they may become affected alternately; or the second 
 not until the first has become blind. 
 
 The cause of periodic ophthalmia is not definitely 
 known. Old writers claim that damp and marshy 
 grounds are the cause, while others believe that ex- 
 treme heat or cold is apt to produce it. The thought 
 that improperly ventilated or badly lighted stables 
 is the caluse cannot be true altogether, for it is 
 found in stables where the best of sanitation exists. 
 It does not seem to be contagious, for it has not been 
 reported to be contracted from one horse by another. 
 But it seems to exist more in one locality than in 
 another. It is believed that heredity exerts a pow- 
 erful influence in the development of periodic oph- 
 thalmia. 
 
 STRUCTURE OF THE FOOT. 
 
 It is necessary to examine the structure of the foot 
 most carefully, not as an object of curiosity, but on 
 account of the numberless diseases and accidents to 
 which it is subject. 
 
 There are the external wall or crust, the sole or 
 slightly concave surfaces forming the bottom or floor 
 of the case, and the triangular central portion of this, 
 called the frog. The front is the toe, the back the 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 41 
 
 heel, and the intermediate part on each side the 
 quarter. 
 
 When examined from the side, the anterior surface 
 should form an angle of about forty-five degrees with 
 the line of the sole, and the upper edge or coronary- 
 band should so join the sole as to leave a moderate 
 substance at the heel; for, if too great, the foot does 
 not expand and is liable to disease from that cause; 
 or if too thin and narrow the foot is weak and gives 
 away downward, ending in a convexity of the sole 
 instead of the reverse. 
 
 One will observe that the frog and the wall come 
 in contact with the ground at the same time. The 
 pointed bone that is seen lowest in the foot is the 
 coffin bone. It presses down close to the extreme 
 point of the foot. 
 
 Between the bones and the horny hoof are the 
 sensitive laminae, a collection of little red leaves very 
 delicate in structure. The hoof is developed by 
 secretions, which have their rise in the coronary 
 substance and lamina?. 
 
 THOROUGH-PIN. 
 
 This is the distension of the bursa. It is much 
 the same as windgall and bog spavin. It appears at 
 the upper and back part of the hock. It varies a 
 great deal in size in different cases. Gentle pressure 
 upon the swelling on one side of the limb generally 
 causes it to disappear on that side and to reappear on 
 the other side of the limb, hence the name thorough- 
 pin. It is not often that it causes lameness. It is, 
 however, to be considered as an unsoundness in the 
 horse. 
 
 BOO SPAVIN. 
 
 This is a smooth, fluctuant tumor situated at the 
 front and on the top of the hock in that part known 
 as the "hollows." Upon pressure it disappears and 
 reappears on the outside and just in front of the hock. 
 
 BONE SPAVIN. 
 
 This is a diseased condition arising between the 
 cannon bone of the hind leg and the small, flat 
 
42 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 cuneiform bone on top of it. The condition is exactly 
 the same as in ringbone, except that the bony growth 
 comes usually in a lump instead of a ring of bone 
 around the joint. This growth varies in size and in 
 rare cases may be absent, this condition being called 
 occult or blind spavin. The lameness arising from a 
 spavin is a very characteristic one, being one of the 
 easiest forms of lameness to diagnose. The horse 
 shows up very lame upon being backed from the stall. 
 In earlier stages he may start off very lame, keeping 
 the heel elevated and not letting the foot back very 
 far. After being driven a short distance he warms 
 up and may go entirely sound. As the case develops, 
 the severity of the lameness increases and the foot 
 is dragged slightly, enough so that the toe is worn 
 off squarely. Occasionally the animal may go sound, 
 apparently, for several weeks. 
 
 curb. 
 Curb is a bulging backward of the posterior part 
 of the hock. It is due to an injury or a sprain. It 
 presents itself as a small ossification at the lower 
 part of the hock, and can easily be recognized. It 
 often results from violent efforts when first breaking 
 a colt or handling him to be halter broken. When 
 colts are unruly they may slip, and it is not un- 
 common for them to be injured at the hock-joint at 
 that time. When the hock is injured it presents a 
 swelling with a varying degree of heat and soreness. 
 This is also accompanied with lameness. In the 
 later stages the swelling easily subsides, but the de- 
 formity of the hock is more pronounced. The lame- 
 ness also varies in severity. 
 
 RINGBONE. 
 
 Ringbone is a term applied to a ring of osseous 
 (bony) material around the pastern joint. The cof- 
 fin joint may sometimes be affected, but this does 
 not often occur. It may come either on the front 
 or hind leg, but is more often found in front on 
 account of there being more weight there. It starts 
 with a strain of the lateral ligaments which bind the 
 two bones together and the inflammation soon extends 
 
the horseman's handbook. 43 
 
 to the articular cartilage covering the ends of the 
 bones, and then to the ends of the bones. Nature, in 
 trying to repair the damage done by the disease, 
 throws out a supply of liquid bony material which is 
 pressed outside of the joint by the weight of the 
 animal and forms in a rough bony growth or ring 
 of bone around the right joint, hence the name "ring- 
 bone." Owing to the extreme sensitiveness of the 
 covering of the bone, this condition gives rise to a 
 very severe form of lameness. 
 
 SIDEBONE. 
 
 Sidebone (ossification of the lateral cartilages) is 
 a condition commonly met with in heavy horses, in 
 the fore feet; it rarely occurs in the hind feet. 
 
 The lateral cartilages are two thin plates of irregu- 
 lar quadrangular form, surrounding the wings of the 
 ospedis (coffin bone), which in virtue of their elas- 
 ticity, assist the sensitive frog and soft structure of 
 the foot in regaining their natural position after 
 being pressed upward and outward by the weight of 
 the animal. They may be easily felt on the sides of 
 the foot, just above the coronet, as two yielding pads. 
 When these become ossified, they are hard and un- 
 yielding as the bone of the foot. 
 
 Symptoms.— Are a greater or less enlargement of 
 the back of the coronet and heel, the part feeling 
 unnaturally hard and irregular or lumpy. If recent, 
 there is generally increased heat noticed when care- 
 fully examined with the hand; but in old-standing 
 cases there is no increase to be detected. Lameness 
 is not always present, but if the horse is driven on 
 hard ground, he will be more likely to show the effect, 
 by going short or sore, than if he were free from 
 disease. 
 
 SPLINT. 
 
 Splints consist of a bony growth situated on the 
 inside of the cannon bone, usually between the large 
 and small metacarpal bones and downward to about 
 the lower third of the principal cannon bone. They 
 vary in size, ranging from that of a large walnut 
 to that of a small hazelnut. They seem to be more 
 
44 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 serious when located near the knee. They are more 
 numerous in young animals than in older horses. 
 Splints occasionally occur on the outside of the fore- 
 leg, but this is very rare. A splint is an enlargement 
 due to inflammation of the periosteum. It may also 
 be due to external injuries, for these parts are natur- 
 ally much exposed to blows, collisions, and concus- 
 sions. It is said by breeders that some animals have 
 a predisposition to splints, such as a weak and badly 
 proportioned cannon bone, which is, as a rule, too 
 long. Splint is of very common occurrence in horses. 
 I doubt whether more than a small per cent of horses 
 in the large cities are free from the same. In the 
 large per cent of cases splints do not necessarily 
 make the animal lame, but they are an eye-sore and 
 will reduce the price of the animal. In the early 
 stages the parts are hot to the touch, due to inflam- 
 mation of the periosteum. Later the inflammation 
 subsides and the entire growth becomes bony. 
 
 WINDGALLS. ' 
 
 Windgall is a name given to dilated bursa. It is 
 a puffy tumor found on the fetlock joint of the hind 
 limb. This is a dropsical condition of the bursa and 
 the tendon which slides behind the same. As a rule, 
 windgalls are not productive of any harm. Occasion- 
 ally one may be found to be hard and hot and sensi- 
 tive to the touch. The animal may also be lame at 
 the time. Windgalls, as they ordinarily appear, give 
 away readily to pressure. They may be attributed 
 to external causes, such as severe labor, strains, and 
 the results of severe driving and heavy pulling. 
 Whenever windgalls are hard, they are likely to pro- 
 duce bad results. A great deal of pain is experienced 
 by these enlarged growths. - It is said that a certain 
 conformation of the limb favors the occurrence of 
 these tumors. 
 
 CONTRACTION OF TENDONS. 
 
 This is a shortening of the tendon and causes the 
 limb to bow more or less in proportion to the amount 
 of contraction that has taken place. This occurs only 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S ITAXDECOK. 45 
 
 when the tendon has been injured by blows, cuts and 
 the like. 
 
 Symptoms. — Are very easily recognized. If one 
 case has been observed it is not difficult to recognize 
 another. When the tendon is shortened it causes 
 the animal to stand or walk on the toe, and the limb 
 has a decidedly bowed appearance and the fetlock 
 knuckles over. The appearance of an animal while 
 standing or in motion seems uncertain and there is 
 a great liability to stumble. 
 
 CAPPED ELBOW. 
 
 Capped elbow, more commonly known as shoe boil, 
 is an enlargement of the olecranon and is supposed 
 to be due to injury. This enlargement is quite com- 
 mon among horses and is found under nearly all 
 conditions. The tumor varies in size and in char- 
 acter. 
 
 Cause. — It is supposed by the majority of writers 
 that this is due to the animal lying down with the 
 shoe pressing against the elbow. This view is not 
 shared by all. Some believe that it is due to the 
 awkwardness of the animal in attempting to lie 
 down, causing an injury to the parts. It is stated 
 |>y some that tightly fitting harness, especially the 
 bellybanrl, may produce it. This disease is not very 
 serious, but is rather troublesome and affects the 
 sale of the animal. 
 
 Symptoms. — First, a slight elevation of the skin at 
 the point of the elbow is noticed, which gradually 
 becomes enlarged, and then becomes more and more 
 firm. In other instances we may notice that the 
 parts are hot and painful and exhibit considerable 
 inflammatory symptoms, accompanied by slight 
 lameness. 
 
 SAND-CRACK. 
 
 Sandcrack consists of a fissure (crack) in any part 
 of the foot, commencing at the coronet and extending 
 to the bottom of the foot, as a rule. These cracks 
 may exist in any part of the wall and they receive 
 various names according to their situation. Thus a 
 crack in the wall on the front of the hoof is known 
 
46 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 as a center crack, while one occurring on the quarter 
 is called a quarter crack. The latter form or variety- 
 is the more common. It is generally seen on the 
 inner quarters of the fore feet and on the toes of 
 the hind feet. There is more or less lameness in 
 connection with it from the fact that when the animal 
 is made to move the crack opens and closes, pinching 
 the sensitive structures and causing pain. 
 
 QUITTOR. 
 
 Quittor is a name given to a fistulous opening at 
 the heels and quarters of the coronet band. It is 
 usually caused by some injury, nail prick, or caulk- 
 ing, or from a bad corn. It is very liable to occur 
 after puncture wounds. Suppuration of the foot 
 from any cause may result in a quittor, on account 
 of the pus not being able to escape, and it may 
 extend in various directions, destroying the tissues 
 in its course. 
 
 Symptoms. — The first symptom to attract attention 
 is a well-marked case of lameness. Upon examining 
 the hoof a noticeable swelling of the coronet band is 
 seen. This swelling may later become soft and a 
 discharge of pus takes place, the wound showing no 
 tendency to heal In many cases the entire coronet 
 band becomes involved, with from six to ten open- 
 ings, out of which pus issues. 
 
 THRUSH. 
 
 Thrush is usually the result of an irritation of the 
 sensitive structures of the foot. It is especially 
 found in a fatty condition of the frog, and is charac- 
 terized by a very offensive discharge from the cleft of 
 the frog. 
 
 Causes. — Thrush may be caused by the animals 
 working in filthy places or standing in filthy stables 
 or corrals. Heavy breeds of horses seem to be more 
 affected by this disease. In running horses it is met 
 with to a considerable extent and it is attributed to 
 the immoderate use of cold water, and it is also 
 claimed by some horsemen that excessive tubbing of 
 horses is a cause. The stuffing of horses' feet with 
 material such as cow dung is also charged with this 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 47 
 
 affection. It seems to be more common in rather 
 warm than in cold weather. 
 
 Symptoms. — The most prominent of these is a dis- 
 charge from the cleft of the frog. This discharge 
 may vary in color from yellow to a real dark choco- 
 late, and is of an exceedingly offensive odor, one that 
 once met with will ever afterwards be recognized. 
 Lameness may accompany the discharge, but as a 
 rule it is wanting. There is, however, a slight ten- 
 derness, especially when the parts of the frog come 
 in contact with a hard, rough road. It is then that 
 the animal may be seen to flinch and go lame for a 
 short distance. 
 
 grease. 
 
 This is a skin disease in the region of the heel. 
 It is often preceded by other diseases or it may be the 
 result of an irritation of the parts. The disease is 
 found more in the large cities and is accredited to 
 wet and cold, mud and filth, and to the irritating 
 chemical substances used by street railway compa- 
 nies. It is characterized by quite an offensive dis- 
 charge from the affected parts, having an oily or 
 greasy appearance but in reality being of a watery 
 nature. It involves the hair follicles and the seba- 
 ceous glands. The limbs may become inflamed and 
 swelled to a large extent, which in turn produces 
 lameness. It is considered by some surgeons that 
 this disease is of a contagious nature, but this has 
 not been thoroughly demonstrated. Horses with flat 
 feet are supposed to be more affected than others. 
 The hind limbs are more often affected than the fore 
 limbs and these cases are more difficult to treat. 
 
 Causes. — The most common cause of this disease is 
 possibly that the limbs become wet and the parts do 
 not dry out thoroughly. Another cause may be 
 scratches, or cracked heels. Some of the causes of 
 scratches may also produce grease. 
 
 Symptoms. — The symptoms are, a swelling of the 
 parts and a slight discharge. The discharge is of an 
 o : ly nature at first and soon inflames the entire skin. 
 The animals on first coming from the stable seem 
 stiff. If for any reason a case of grease is not taken 
 
48 the horseman's handbook. 
 
 care of it may terminate in a very aggravating limb, 
 with excessive swelling, known as elephantiasis. 
 
 CRACKED HEELS. 
 
 Cracked heels are commonly called scratches. They 
 are due to irritation. Cracked heels are produced in 
 various ways. It is said that too much moisture 
 around the heels and not having them properly dried 
 may produce this disease. In young horses that per- 
 spire freely it is thought that the perspiration run- 
 ning down the heels and collecting there, produces 
 an irritation which causes them to crack. Injuries 
 are also charged to this trouble. For instance, an 
 animal while tied to a fence or lariated may get his 
 leg over the rope and the irritation set up by this 
 may terminate in scratches. 
 
 Symptoms. — The first symptom to be noticed is a 
 slightly reddened appearance of the heel. If in the 
 fore limbs, the animal may be stiff at first and there 
 may be a discharge from the heel. After driving 
 for some time the stiffness may disappear. This 
 stiffness is noticed to some degree when the hind 
 limbs are affected. The limbs are at times slightly 
 swollen, which may extend from the ankle to the 
 hock. 
 
 KNEE SPRUNG. 
 
 In this condition the knee is bent forward, due to 
 the contraction of the flexor tendons. This disease 
 may be caused by hard, fast driving on pavements, 
 or by hard work. It is believed that irregular exer- 
 cise has something to do with it. This disease may 
 also be due to other disease existing in parts below 
 the knee joint, such as sidebone, ringbone, navicular 
 disease, etc. Stablemen assert that this disease is 
 often found in horses that stand in a stall the floor 
 of which slopes backwards. 
 
 STRIXGHALT. 
 
 Stringhalt is manifested by a certain jerking up of 
 one of the hind limbs when the animal is either walk- 
 ing or trotting. 
 
 Symptoms. — The symptoms vary. In some they are 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 49 
 
 more pronounced than in others. They seem, how- 
 ever, to increase in severity with age. 
 
 DISLOCATION OF THE PATELLA. 
 
 On account of the patella being situated on the 
 outer side and the ligaments attached to the patella 
 and the tibia, it is not uncommon to have sprains of 
 these ligaments, caused either by direct injuries, falls, 
 slips, or blows. This is a very common occurrence 
 among horses, and especially on the ranges, where the 
 young animals may be kicked on the stifle. 
 
 BROKEN KNEE. 
 
 This is a term applied to animals scarred on the 
 knee-joint. It is manifested by a loss of hair and in 
 some instances may be an open wound similar to that 
 of an open joint. It may be due to an injury, such as 
 falling on a slippery pavement or on some sharp ob- 
 ject. As a rule, horses that show one or more scars 
 on the knee-joint are known to be "stumblers," that 
 is, not sure of foot. Usually they are affected with 
 some deformity of the limb, knee or knuckle, or may 
 have been foundered. 
 
 ANEURISM. 
 
 Aneurism is a tumor produced by dilation of an 
 artery. When all the coats of the artery are dilated 
 and form a paunch, it is then known as a true aneu- 
 rism. Such dilations are usually due to chronic heart 
 trouble. False aneurisms are formed when an artery 
 is ruptured and only the inner coat remains intact. 
 Aneurisms may be situated internally in the chest, 
 cranial cavity, or abdominal cavity. 
 
 HERNIA (RUPTURE). 
 
 There are several kinds of hernias. Some of them 
 are more serious than others. A hernia is sometimes 
 called a rupture, and may be defined as a protrusion 
 of the whole or part of an organ through a natural or 
 unnatural opening. 
 
 Abdominal Hernia may be reducible, irreducible, or 
 
50 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 strangulated. Strangulated hernia is so called be- 
 cause it interferes with the circulatory system. 
 
 Inguinal Hernia is the kind most often met with in 
 stallions and young animals. It is an incomplete scro- 
 tal hernia. It may not cause any disturbance, and 
 again it may terminate into a strangulated hernia. 
 Whenever stallions show symptoms of colic, they 
 should always be examined for inguinal hernia. It 
 is somewhat difficult to diagnose an inguinal hernia. 
 There are usually very few external symptoms. Cas- 
 tration seems to prevent the occurrence of inguinal 
 hernia, as it causes the inguinal canal to contract, 
 becoming much smaller, and the spermatic cord to 
 retract. 
 
 Scrotal Hernias are by far the most common among 
 animals. They often occur soon after birth. This is 
 caused by the dilation of the sheath of the testicle, 
 combined with a relaxation of the tissues surrounding 
 the inguinal ring. This form of hernia may exist for 
 a long time before it causes any disturbance, but as 
 time goes on the imprisoned intestine becomes filled 
 with feces which cannot escape. It is then that it be- 
 comes strangulated and the animal shows symptoms 
 of colic. 
 
 Intestinal Hernia is a passing of any portion of the 
 bowel through the naval, thus forming a tumor. 
 
 Symptoms. — The patient may paw, roll, and throw 
 himself about, presenting symptoms of colic. The 
 pulse is not full as we find it in cases of colic, but is 
 very much increased and the patient may set up on 
 his haunches. The pulse very soon becomes weak, the 
 eyes dim, the limbs cold, and a profuse perspiration 
 spreads over the animal. 
 
 NAVICULAR DISEASE. 
 
 Navicular disease may be denned as an inflamma- 
 tion set up in the navicular bone, bursa, and flexor 
 tendon. The disease occurs in the fore feet. In most 
 cases the cause may be found due to hard and fast 
 driving on hard roads. Some think that there is a 
 hereditary tendency in certain breeds of horses to 
 this disease on account of their faulty conformation, 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 51 
 
 the disease being most frequently met with in horses 
 having short, upright pasterns and a pounding action. 
 Allowing an animal to be idle for a few days, feeding 
 him highly in the meantime, then taking him out for 
 a severe ride or drive on a hard road will cause this 
 disease. But it may also depend on injuries to the 
 foot from bad shoeing; bruises from stones or hard- 
 ened clay; drying and shrinking of the foot from 
 standing idle too long in the stall; impaired nutrition 
 with increased elimination of phosphate from the sys- 
 tem; and extension of the disease from the digestive 
 organs as in overfeed of grain; or a drink of cold 
 water when hot and fatigued. 
 
 Symptoms. — The animal points the affected foot 
 eight or ten inches in advance of the other with the 
 heel slightly raised, when standing quietly in the 
 stable. This symptom may last for months before 
 lameness is shown. As a rule, the animal nurses the 
 foot more or less, relieving it of weight. In some 
 instances the limb may be extended and the foot held 
 quite a distance in front of the other foot; but these 
 symptoms are not always noticed, and when noticed 
 they by no means constitute absolute proof of the 
 existence of the disease, as an animal perfectly sound 
 will sometimes get in the habit of pointing. 
 
 As a rule lameness is the first symptom to attract 
 attention. It may come on suddenly and be severe, or 
 may be gradually developed and be slight. The horse 
 steps short and on the toe, with a great tendency to 
 stumble when first moved from the stable, which 
 lameness may entirely disappear after going a mile 
 or two, and is worse when the horse is cooled off after 
 a long drive. 
 
 Another well marked symptom, especially when only 
 one foot is affected, is the greater or less wasting of 
 the muscles of the limb from disuse, but it is espe- 
 cially marked on the breast, above the elbow, and 
 outside the shoulder blade. 
 
 This disease is usually referred to as shoulder 
 sweeny. It is very easily confounded with sprain of 
 the tendon, but is easily distinguished by the heat and 
 contraction of the heel and the tenderness of the cen- 
 
52 THE horseman's handeook. 
 
 ter of the sole and the quarters to strokes of the ham- 
 mer. 
 
 LAMINITIS (FOUNDER). 
 
 Laminitis is an inflammation of the sensitive lami- 
 nae of the feet. Laminitis is also known as "chest 
 founder." It occurs in acute, sub-acute and chronic 
 forms. The causes are numerous, e. g., injuries to the 
 feet, due to accidents, bad shoeing, or concussion; long 
 drives, especially in hot weather, when the tempera- 
 ture changes suddenly; overtaxation, such as heavy 
 pulling or rapid work; overfeeding; administering 
 large quantities of very cold water when the animal 
 is hot and tired. It may also occur after an attack of 
 bronchitis, pneumonia, or influenza, or may result 
 from allowing the animal to stand on a hard floor for 
 a long period. 
 
 Symptoms. — The symptoms of laminitis are very 
 plain and the disease can very readily be recognized 
 from a distance, the mere posture of the animal being 
 sufficient. Lameness may suddenly set in or it may 
 manifest itself simply in a little soreness which may 
 rapidly develop into the characteristic symptoms of 
 acute laminitis. In most cases the first symptoms to 
 attract notice are stiffening and stumbling during 
 progression. As a rule the animal persists in stand- 
 ing, and the fever steadily increases and finally be- 
 comes so great that one may suspect lung affection. 
 Usually both fore feet are inflamed in the acute stage. 
 Laminitis may start with a chill, after which the 
 temperature rapidly increases to 103 or 105 degrees. 
 It is not uncommon to notice the symptoms of diar- 
 rhoea. These complications are found when the ani- 
 mal is in very severe pain and the entire body is be- 
 dewed with sweat. Laminitis is the most painful dis- 
 ease to which the horse is subject. That the pain 
 is intense can easily be seen from the position the ani- 
 mal takes when made to move Upon compelling the 
 animal to work, one will notice that it is done in a 
 peculiar, stiff manner, and the animal persists in 
 falling and stumbling on level ground. When stand- 
 ing still the animal may be seen with his hind feet 
 placed well up under the body and supporting most 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 53 
 
 of the weight, while the front feet are stretched out 
 in front with only the heels resting upon the ground. 
 The affected limbs are hot to the touch and one may 
 distinctly feel the pulsation of the arteries of the 
 foot. The most important characteristic to be con- 
 sidered in laminitis are (1) severely painful lame- 
 ness, (2) increased frequency of the pulse, fullness 
 and hardness of the arteries which can be plainly 
 felt on both sides of the fetlock, (3) rapid respiration 
 and dilated nostrils, (4) temperature running from 
 104 to 105 degrees, (5) the mucous membrane of the 
 nose being of a deep red color, (6) painful, anxious 
 expression on the animals' countenance and the ani- 
 mal often sweat bedewed, and (7) in most cases a 
 diminished appetite. 
 
 ROARING. 
 
 Roaring is a very serious condition in the horse. 
 It is denned as breathing with a loud and unnatural 
 sound. It is due to a diseased condition of the respira- 
 tory tract, and is heard during the act of respiration 
 and at varying distances from the animal in different 
 cases. In the majority of cases it is caused by 
 atrophy and degeneration of the dilator muscles (pos- 
 terior crico-arytenoid) of the glottis. All of these 
 muscles are freely supplied with nerves and often 
 some of the nerves lose their influence, become para- 
 lyzed and undergo fatty degeneration. There are a 
 variety of causes assigned for roaring, common 
 among which are malformation of any of the air 
 passages, obstruction of the nasal cavities (polypi), 
 which will produce these sounds. In a genuine case 
 of roaring the muscles above mentioned are paralyzed 
 and wasted, in consequence of which the laryngeal 
 opening is not properly dilated, and the air rushing 
 in during inspiration, comes in contact with the 
 loosely napping parts of the larynx and produces 
 the sound known as roaring. Hereditary tendencies 
 to roaring are said to accompany Roman noses 
 and long, thin hecks. This class of animals seems 
 more predisposed to it. 
 
 Symptoms. — It is only when the animal is excited 
 or during violent exercise that the sound is produced. 
 
54 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 There are two kinds of sounds produced, which differ 
 in pitch; when the sound is of high pitch it is called 
 whistling, and when of a low pitch it is called roar- 
 ing. In most cases it is only during inspiration that 
 the sound is made, but in very bad cases it may also 
 be produced during the act of expiration. 
 
 How to Diagnose a Roarer. — A moderate trot will 
 not always suffice to expose a roarer. The best way 
 to detect these cases is to give the animal a sharp 
 gallop up-grade and then stop suddenly close to the 
 examiner, who by immediately placing the ear to the 
 nostrils and larynx of the animal will be able to de- 
 tect any abnormal sound. This method of examina- 
 tion should be followed in all cases where an animal 
 is suspected of not being sound in wind. 
 
 GLANDERS AND FARCY. 
 
 Glanders and farcy are the same disease, the latter 
 being commonly used for those forms where the skin 
 and external parts are affected. Glanders is a malig- 
 nant infectious disease and is caused by the germ bac- 
 cillus mallei. It was discovered by a French and a 
 German scientist. Before the discovery of the germ 
 this disease was not thought to be dangerous by some 
 of the prominent European scientists. It was thought 
 to be caused by bad stables and poor food. It is 
 easily spread from one animal to another. Mild 
 cases may be highly infectious. Its ravages, how- 
 ever, are clearly shown by the presence of sores or 
 ulcers on the Schneiderian membrane in advanced 
 cases. 
 
 The bacteria can be killed by freezing, boiling 
 water, or by certain drugs, such as bichloride, kreso, 
 and the like. The germ most frequently enters and 
 infects the lymphatic system. Some animals seem 
 more susceptible to glanders than others. The mule 
 is far more susceptible than the horse. Cattle are 
 not susceptible to glanders. Harnesses, bedding, 
 water troughs, pails and the like, are the most com- 
 mon carriers of infection to the animals. 
 
 Incubation. — This period varies greatly. Various 
 authors have given it from five to eleven days; others 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 55 
 
 say that it is very much longer, and this is especially 
 true when the animal becomes infected naturally. 
 
 Symptoms. — The symptoms of glanders and farcy 
 are as follows: We distinguish an acute and a 
 chronic form of glanders, also of farcy. These differ 
 only in the severity of the symptoms and the rapidity 
 with which disease follows. Chronic glanders is the 
 most common form of glanders. It is more often 
 seen in old debilitated animals. The animal may 
 have suffered for months without showing the least 
 well marked symptom, and in this condition may 
 have communicated the disease to as many horses as 
 have come in contact with it. The symptom usually 
 noticed first is the slightly sticky discharge from 
 one or both nostrils. This discharge is thin and 
 colorless and adheres around the nostrils, giving the 
 same a very offensive appearance. Usually the dis- 
 charge contains a large quantity of albumen. The 
 discharge may be profuse when the animal is being 
 exercised and is not uncommonly streaked with blood. 
 Ulcers may develop on the nasal septum. These 
 ulcers may heal, leaving a white scar. There may be 
 an elevation of temperature reaching 101 degrees to 
 103 degrees. Another important symptom is 
 the swelling of the intermaxillary glands. These 
 are somewhat hard and adhere to the jaw bone 
 and are not painful. As a rule, these glands do not 
 show any tendency to suppurate. A few may break 
 down and discharge a thin, oily fluid. As a rule, 
 there is a slight cough. The coat becomes dry and 
 staring and feels harsh to the fingers. The appetite 
 is impaired and the animal gradually falls away in 
 flesh. The discharge is not offensive unless the ulcers 
 extend to and affect the turbinated bones, when it 
 becomes highly offensive. An animal may be affected 
 with a mild chronic form and remain in compara- 
 tively good flesh and may live for years in this condi- 
 tion without showing any serious symptoms. When 
 raw, ragged ulcers appear on the mucous membrane 
 lining the nostrils of an animal seven years of age 
 or upwards, whose general condition is unthrifty, 
 and which has swellings of the intermaxilliary 
 
56 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 glands, such an animal should be tested with mallein, 
 or regarded as suspected of glanders. 
 
 Acute glanders is the same as chronic form except 
 that the symptoms are very much more severe and 
 the course is more rapid. In the acute form there 
 may be hemorrhages from the nostrils. In the acute 
 form the animals take the disease very much more 
 rapidly. The swellings of the intermaxillary glands 
 are painful and very much extended. The tempera- 
 ture varies from 100 degrees to 107 degrees. Respi- 
 ration increases and is very short. The discharge 
 from the nose is exceedingly sticky and the accumu- 
 lation of dust and dirt has a tendency to obstruct 
 the entire opening, causing the animal much distress 
 during breathing. 
 
 Farcy. 
 
 This is another form of glanders. It is distin- 
 guished by the characteristic swellings called farcy 
 buds or buttons and found on the skin and the lymph- 
 atic glands. These vary in size from that of a pea 
 to that of a hickory nut. They are found on the 
 inside of the thigh, on the back part of the hock, 
 under the abdomen, on the sides of the neck, on the 
 chest, and also around the head. In acute cases these 
 ulcers break in from twelve to eighteen days and dis- 
 charge a sticy, yellowish fluid. In the chronic form 
 they usually do not suppurate, being hard and pain- 
 less. 
 
 Symptoms. — As a rule, the first symptoms to at- 
 tract attention is a swelling of the limbs very much 
 like that in ordinary lymphangitis. The swelling at 
 times is painful. These ulcers when they have 
 bursted have no tendency to heal, as a rule, and 
 should always be regarded with suspicion. The head 
 of the animal may swell and later farcy sores appear 
 on it. These may heal and leave scars only to reap- 
 pear again. 
 
 MALADIE DU COIT ( HORSE SYPHILIS). 
 
 This is a contagious venereal disease seen in stal- 
 lions and mares. It is rather chronic in its course 
 and characterized by a discharge from the genital 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 57 
 
 organs, accompanied by ulcers and later by paralysis. 
 The disease appears within ten days after copulation. 
 There is an irritation, swelling, and a redness of the 
 external organs of generation. In the mare there is 
 a frequent contraction of the vulva, urination, and a 
 watery discharge which later becomes a thick fluid 
 of a whitish, yellowish, or reddish color. Swellings 
 the size of a fifty cent piece may be found on the 
 body and legs. These may disappear and reappear 
 in other places. The affection of the skin leads to 
 the appearance of circular white spots, which may 
 remain dormant or may suppurate. In the later 
 stages the animals become very much emaciated and 
 dull, and may die within a few months or within a 
 year. In stallion that serve only a few mares, there 
 may be at first only a swelling of the sheath, but 
 after a time the process is more rapid. The most 
 serious symptom is paralysis of the hind limbs. 
 Weakness, emaciation, and dullness increase until 
 death. In some cases there is an itching of the 
 skin which leads the animal to gnaw itself, produc- 
 ing extensive sores. 
 
58 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 CARE OF HORSES IN SICKNESS. 
 
 The care of horses in sickness is a subject of which 
 a book of this scope can treat of but very lightly, and 
 an attempt will only be made to give some advice as 
 to the more common of ailments to which horseflesh 
 is heir, with their treatment, more especially as the 
 subject has been handled more or less in the chapters 
 which precede this one. 
 
 Swollen Legs. — In the first place a very common 
 trouble and one which is a source of much trouble 
 and inconvenience to horse owners, especially so to 
 dealers, is swollen legs. It is invariably due to one 
 of two extreme conditions. A debilitated or weak- 
 ened circulation of the blood, or an overfed or 
 plethoric condition of the animal. When a result 
 of the former it is because there is an insufficient 
 force of the heart's action to return the blood from 
 the extremities, and the blood being stagnated in 
 the limbs, its watery portion will escape from the 
 vessels into the surrounding tissues and produce this 
 dropsical swelling. When of this type an impression 
 made upon the swelling with thumb and finger will 
 remain for some little time. When due to the latter 
 condition, the system is overloaded with waste ma- 
 terial which, on account of its excessive amount, 
 cannot be absorbed by the Lympathic Glands and 
 carried out through the organs of excretion. When 
 due to other conditions if the swelling will disappear 
 upon exercising the animals, it will readily yield to 
 rational treatment. From the foregoing conclusions 
 It will be seen that what is needed In either case it a 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 59 
 
 combination of a heart tonic and some other remedy 
 that will increase the action of the kidneys and other 
 organs of excretion. Exercising and bandaging will 
 reduce the swelling temporarily, but any permanent 
 relief must come from a removal of the cause. 
 
 Cribbing. — Cribbing, otherwise wind-sucking or 
 swallowing air, says the London Live Stock Journal, 
 is a vice peculiar to horses alone. It is a vice which 
 may be checked by mechanical appliances, but is 
 rarely entirely eradicated. The removal of the man- 
 ger and placing the horse's food on the ground will 
 not prevent a determined cribber swallowing air. 
 The sides of the stall he will some times utilize for 
 the same purpose, and some horses will crib on their 
 own body. Others learn to crib without any support 
 at all. It has been clearly proved that what is known 
 as cribbing is not, as we once thought, an act of 
 belching and expelling gas from the stomach, but of 
 swallowing air into it. Horses killed after cribbing 
 have had the gases in their stomachs and intestines 
 subjected to chemical analysis, with the result that 
 pure air has been found. Moreover, other experi- 
 ments have been made which lead to the same con- 
 clusion. An empty bladder inserted in the gullet in a 
 prescribed way is found to be distended with pure 
 air after the act of cribbing. The vice of cribbing 
 In the way it is most usually performed, is destructive 
 to the teeth of the horse, and so interferes with the 
 proper mastication of his food. Swallowing air, how- 
 ever, in any way, frequently results in serious intes- 
 tinal trouble — indigestion, flatulency, colicky pains 
 and other ailments. 
 
 Loss of Appetite may be caused by overwork or 
 too little exercise, fault with the food, faulty general 
 management, soreness about the mouth or disease of 
 the teeth. When refusal to eat is due to continued 
 over-feeding, short rations for a day or two is all that 
 is required. Food that is not eaten within a reason- 
 able time should be promptly removed from the man- 
 ger and the next feed correspondingly reduced. Give 
 an animal no more than he will eat up clean. It 
 
CO THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 often happens that food is refused for no apparent 
 reason, the animal at the same time becoming thin 
 and weak. In such cases "condimental" foods are 
 useful, not because of any superior nutritive value, 
 but because they rouse the appetite. The following 
 formula is recommended for the greater number of 
 cases: Ground or crushed oats and corn meal, of 
 each five pounds, oil meal one-fourth of a pound, 
 common table salt two ounces. If the animal seems 
 to need a tonic or is troubled with intestinal worms, 
 mix with each ration as above given, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of powdered gentian, and a small teaspoonful of 
 the dried sulphate of iron. If the animal then refuses 
 the ration a little starvation is all that will be re- 
 quired to cause him to take it, the dislike ceasing 
 as soon as the animal has once been persuaded to 
 partake of the mixture. 
 
 Worms. — When a horse takes every opportunity of 
 rubbing the hair off his tail, and is after all not 
 relieved by the operation, or when outward applica- 
 tions have no effect upon it the irritation probably 
 proceeds from small worms in the rectum. Occa- 
 sionally applications of salt, or salt and quassia will 
 keep these parasites down. Boil two ounces of 
 quassia chips in two quarts of water for half an hour. 
 Strain off the chips and put half an ounce of salt in 
 the liquid. When blood warm gently inject into the 
 rectum. If retained half an hour or more it will 
 give great relief, but if expelled immediately try 
 again next day. This simple remedy may be repeated 
 whenever the worms are seen to be troublesome, and 
 will never do any harm. But don't pour in the salt 
 without weighing or measuring it. Physic will injure 
 the horse without injuring the worms. In Chapter I, 
 see also the reference to this subject. 
 
 Abortion. — For this trouble many remedies are 
 given, all probably more or less efficacious, and nearly 
 every veterinarian has some particular treatment 
 which he considers superior to all others. There 
 can be no doubt that the best method is to use great 
 care In the feeding and handling of the mare from 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 61 
 
 the very earliest months of pregnancy, and to 
 increase this care and watchfulness as she pro- 
 gresses. A mare cannot safely be given track work 
 for more than four months after breeding, though 
 we have known instances of mares being bred in the 
 spring and making a summer's campaign while car- 
 rying a foal. After four months she should be nearly 
 let up, only receiving work enough to afford suffi- 
 cient exercise. Care should also be used in feeding 
 to avoid giving grain that has become "smutty," or 
 in other words contains ergot, which increases the 
 chances of an abortion. If a mare has lost her foal 
 regularly for two or three years, and it is appre- 
 hended that she will again abort, it is advisable to 
 begin about four months previous to foaling to give 
 her twice a day, night and morning, a half-pint of 
 hemp-seed. Continue this until within a week of 
 foaling. Also commence at the same^ time to give 
 her one ounce of the fluid extract *of viburnum 
 prunifolium in her feed night and morning, con- 
 tinuing this for two months. Many experienced stock 
 farm managers recommend the use of wheat as a 
 preventive of abortion, and advise, if a mare begins 
 to strain or show any indications of coming abortion, 
 to give her immediately a handful of whole wheat, 
 care being taken, of course, to have it clean and 
 free from ergot or "smut." If one mare aborts, and 
 others who are in foal are in the neighborhood, they 
 should be kept carefully away from the spot, and all 
 evidences at once removed. Carbolic acid should he 
 sprinkled liberally about the stall or yard, and the 
 mare isolated from the rest for two or three days. 
 These precautions have proven very effective in pre- 
 venting those epidemics of abortion that sometimes 
 attack large farms, where large numbers of brood 
 mares in foal are in close proximity to each other. 
 See also Chapter II. as to treatment of abortion. 
 
 Heaves. — There are a great many articles upon the 
 market that claim to cure heaves, all of which are 
 more or less effective, depending on the condition 
 of the animal rather than the effectiveness of the drug. 
 The word heaves is broad in its meaning. There are 
 
62 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 at least three distinct different pathological reasons 
 that will cause a horse to heave. If it should come 
 from chronic indigestion and dilated stomach it 
 might he helped by removing the cause. If it was a 
 lesion of the pneumogastric nerve, it would he recog- 
 nized by the profession as incurable; also if it came 
 from dilation of the air vessels of the lungs. 
 
 Lice. — There are many remedies that are recom- 
 mended for the cure of lice on colts. We have found 
 the following a good thing: Corrosive Sublimate 30 
 grains in a quart of luke warm water, and half pint 
 of alcohol, and bathe the colt all over thoroughly 
 with this solution, especially along the spine from 
 the tail to the head. Keep the colt in a warm place 
 after the application. 
 
 Eczema. — If you have a horse that is constantly 
 rubbing himself, especially about the hips and on 
 his sides, whose health is good, appetite good, and 
 has no sign of any vermin or anything wrong except 
 his desire to rub himself. This trouble is eczema. 
 Give him seven drams of aloes and two drams of 
 ginger either in a ball or drench. If the weather and 
 stable are warm wash him with soap and water twice 
 a week till well. 
 
 Corns. — If the corns are the result of bad shoeing 
 they are hard to remove, if from a bruise they are 
 more easily treated. We would advise cutting them 
 out and cauterizing the wounds with a hot iron, or 
 treat with strong nitric acid or chemical pure sul- 
 phuric acid; have the shoes removed often, and set 
 to remove pressure. 
 
 Strangles. — The symptoms of this disease are 
 usually lumps under the horse's jaw, extending up as 
 high as his ears and sometimes making him carry 
 his head to one side. The horse should be kept warm 
 and apply hot poultices of linseed meal to the lumps 
 on the jaw. Change them often each day, and when 
 the bunch gets soft and feels sore in the center take 
 a clean knife and open the abcess, and keep up the 
 poulticing until the discharge stops. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 63 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CARE OF THE FEET— BOOTING AND SHOEING. 
 
 The oft repeated phrase "no foot, no horse" has so 
 much of truth in it that we cannot refrain from giving 
 a chapter on this important subject, despite the fact 
 that many valuable hints have been given on the 
 subject in the chapters preceding this. 
 
 F. J. Berry, a life long horseman, has this to say on 
 the subject: 
 
 The proper shoeing of horses is very important. 
 There have been many articles written about black- 
 smiths tucking horses feet in shoeing, and one would 
 think by the many articles written that blacksmiths 
 are the most ignorant class of people, and not in 
 any way master of the business, and in some cases 
 this may be true as we think there are quite a good 
 many bunglers at the business, but we think this rule 
 does not apply in general. To the contrary we think 
 the average blacksmith who has had many years 
 experience in the shoeing of horses becomes famliiar 
 with all the requirements of the shoe in protecting 
 the horse's foot, and should know far more about the 
 subject than many writers setting down to write, or 
 the person who has had no experience whatever but 
 has merely heard it said that blacksmiths ruin horses' 
 feet, starting out by writing several columns advanc- 
 ing their own ideas and a theory of hearsay not 
 that which is based on experience and scientific prin- 
 ciples. 
 
 We have had many years' experience in raising, 
 training, handling as dealers of all classes of horses 
 and have made it a practice, when having fine horses 
 shod, to go with the horses to the shop and tell the 
 
64 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 smith what is wanted, and when the old shoe is 
 removed from the foot see that the crest is pared 
 perfectly level with the sole of the foot, and that 
 the frog is not touched at all, neither the sole in an 
 average case, and that the crest is brought down on 
 a level with the sole and is made perfectly level from 
 toe to heel, and both inside and outside of the hoof 
 the same height. Then see that the shoe is fitted 
 to the foot and as light in weight as the horse can 
 wear and be properly balanced, when the shoe is 
 perfectly level it will lie on the horse's foot perfectly 
 tight on the outside edge and all the way around. 
 
 We never allow the hot shoe to lie on the hoof to 
 burn it, but bevel the shoe inside of the nail holes so 
 it will not touch the sole of the foot, thus giving it 
 bearing equally all the way around outside of the 
 nail holes, except the inside quarter at the heel, this 
 we give a light bearing; this in all cases being the 
 thinnest part of the hoof and should be protected 
 as much as possible. If the heel of the shoe should lie 
 hard on the inside quarter of the foot it would very 
 likely bruise the heel and cause corns, which would 
 have ruinous effect upon the horse's foot. 
 
 In all cases allow the frog to come down to the 
 ground to take a frog bearing at every step if pos- 
 sible and carry its part of the weight. 
 
 As long as a good healthy frog can be kept to do 
 Its work in this matter there will be no contracted 
 heels or pinched feet, and as long as the shoe is set 
 with care, as above described, the horse will never 
 have any corns or sore feet. 
 
 While watching the smith and giving him our ideas, 
 we have learned from him many things of interest 
 which have proved benefical to us. 
 
 One of the most intelligent smiths we have ever 
 met, and one who comes as near doing a perfect Job 
 as a shoer, said to us he had made the horse's foot 
 a study for many years and we believe this agrees 
 with the old maxim that "practice makes perfect." 
 
 In all cases keep the horse's feet moist; clay floors 
 or gravel floors in stalls are preferable. Keep the 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 65 
 
 horse's feet packed at night with oil meal made of 
 half wheat bran mixed with water; let the horse go 
 out in the dewy grass, if possible, if not, and the 
 horse is stabled a good deal where he cannot get 
 the moisture, use swabs on his feet made of felt, dip 
 in water and buckle around the cornet joints, thus 
 keeeping the hair wet where the horn grows out, 
 making the hoof, when kept moist and soft, grow in 
 a healthy condition. 
 
 If the horse is used through the day wash the feet 
 in all cases on coming in and put on the wet swabs 
 over night again. 
 
 Now if the horse's feet have been neglected and 
 allowed to dry up, causing the growth of the horn to 
 <3top, feet to contract as they always will when not 
 kept moist, in a growthy, healthy condition, and per- 
 haps being badly shod, corns in the feet, thus nearly 
 ruined as you will find this to be the case with the 
 large portion of horses stabled for a number of years, 
 having only ordinary or but little care; or have stood 
 In idleness on dry hard floors until the feet have 
 become dry and hard like flint; in these cases the 
 horse must be shod properly, giving the right bear- 
 ing, corns must be trimmed out and that portion of 
 the foot eased from the pressure; the feet soaked in 
 cold water one-half hour each day, never using any 
 hot water, as hot water kills the life of the horn, 
 making it harder instead of softening it; for instance, 
 put a piece of horn in hot water, lay it out in the 
 sun, it will become hard and dry, breaking almost as 
 glass. Thus hot water should never be used on a 
 horse's foot, although tepid as has been set in the 
 sun about the temperature of the air, would be pre- 
 ferable. Rain water is much the best as it is soft, 
 having no lime, like the lake or well water, and has 
 much better effect on the foot. A soap poultice can 
 be used with the best result. A half pint of soft 
 soap, or bar soap can be used, to about one quart of 
 water, thickening with wheat bran until just hard 
 enough for a poultice. Stand the horse's foot in the 
 center of a rubrag, place the poultice all around the 
 
66 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 hoof at the edge of the hair from an inch to one 
 and a half thick, bring the rubrag up over it, winding 
 outside the rubrag with strips of cloth until secured 
 on the foot and made thick with cloths outside the 
 poultice, keeping the poultice from drying and giving 
 the desired effect of softening the flesh at the edge of 
 the hair causing the hoof to grow. Thus keeping up 
 the treatment of poulticing and soaking until the 
 front feet are about grown with new hoofs. 
 
 The horse can be worked every day, if necessary 
 while going through the process, but if not used 
 might improve faster, but the grain or feed must be 
 reduced as fed high upon grain and not working 
 would have a tendency to increase the fever in the 
 feet, therefore it would be as well to take away the 
 grain, and feed with good hay and bran mash occas- 
 ionally while remaining idle. 
 
 This treatment of course is for the front feet, as 
 the hind feet will always take care of themselves and 
 the horse never gets lame from corns or contractions 
 of the hind feet. 
 
 All horses should be shod every three or four weeks 
 and the shoe should not be allowed to remain longer 
 without resetting, and cannot without injury to the 
 feet. 
 
 Great care should be taken in shoeing speedy 
 horses, to have the norse rightly balanced, to make 
 the action true and even. Horses inclined to be a 
 little double or mixed gaited require more weight 
 upon the front feet; the usual and better way to do 
 this is to balance the horse with toe weights and 
 this must be used according to the judgment of the 
 driver and gradually worked off as the horse becomes 
 more pure gaited. All horses should be made to go 
 as light as possible, and as they make speed it takes 
 less weight to balance them. If a horse is obliged 
 to carry heavy shoes in front and it is desired to 
 reduce them, let the horse wear the shoes until well 
 worn and then replace by new shoes, the weight of 
 the ones taken off, in this way the horse's shoes can 
 be reduced to any weight desired without throwing 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 67 
 
 the horse out of balance. In all cases where it can 
 be done the front shoe should not weigh more than 
 eight ounces each, and the hind shoe six ounces each, 
 even lighter than this would be better, provided the 
 horse worked right and still proved to be properly 
 balanced. Some horses trot much faster with long 
 toes, while others with about the same kind of a gait, 
 go much better with toes short. All these things are 
 a matter of judgment, and learned through close ob- 
 servation and practice. If a horse has to wear toe 
 weights reduce them as he makes speed and becomes 
 pure gaited until they can be taken entirely off, if 
 possible, as the lighter the horse can go the more 
 speed he will make and the more heats he can go 
 without tiring; this is one of the most essential 
 points in a race-horse, and upon his racing qualities 
 depends his value more than upon his speed. 
 
 MR. BONNER'S VIEWS. 
 
 Probably no man living has given the question of 
 shoeing and the horse's foot as much study as Robert 
 Bonner, and his views on the subject as given by a 
 New York Herald reporter and reprinted below, must 
 be of interest. Said the owner of Maud S. and Sunol: 
 
 In the first place, the great secret of succesful shoe- 
 ing is — keep the foot level. A true hoof usually a 
 sound hoof, and this simple rule Is universally 
 ignored. Keep the foot level, there is the condensed 
 lore of a hundred veterinary colleges in that sentence. 
 
 Now, as to the dreaded navicular disease. No man 
 can tell, or ever will be able to tell, whether a horse 
 has navicular disease or not, unless he dissects the 
 foot. Fully two-thirds of the alleged navicular 
 diseases are merely sufferings caused by improper 
 shoeing. Why, when Dr. Lewis A. Sayre brought nig 
 handsome mare, Fanny Miller, to me she had been 
 lame for months. I examined her, drove her to the 
 blacksmith's and had her shoes taken off, her hoof 
 trimmed and the shoes reset. The mare was all right 
 immediately and has never taken a lame step since, 
 yet before that one of the most prominent veter- 
 
68 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 Inarians In the city advised Dr. Sayre to get rid of 
 her, as he said she would never be well again. 
 
 There's another point upon which the veterinary 
 authorities unanimously agree, and upon which they 
 are entirely all wrong. 
 
 That's a sweeping statement, isn't it? But it is 
 truth itself. 
 
 Prof. Williams, even, the British text book writer, 
 errs with the rest when he says that if you raise the 
 heels of a horse's shoes you raise the animal's ankle 
 and if you raise the toe you depress the ankle. I've 
 proved that it's wrong over and over again. Anyone 
 reading this theory would think it reasonably and 
 apparently correct, but when you get the bones of a 
 horse's leg, from the knee down, and test the theory 
 you will see at once that it is and must be fallacious 
 from the conformation of the horse's bones. There- 
 fore, when you raise the heel you depress the ankle 
 and when you raise the" toe you raise the ankle also, 
 all the colleges and gilded faculties in the world not- 
 withstanding. 
 
 About spavin? Well, here's my opinion regarding 
 it. It's far too common, and is brought about by the 
 cm el and gross neglect on the part of the people 
 whose duty it is to look after horses. It is absolutely 
 Impossible — absolutely impossible — for a horse to 
 throw out a spavin unless he is too long in the toe. 
 The preventation, therefore, is the easiest of matters. 
 
 A general misconception is the popular impression 
 that a running or trotting horse lands on the ground 
 flat footed. This should be corrected, for a man 
 should know exactly how the foot works. In both 
 running and trotting, as the foot lands, first the heel 
 strikes the ground, then the toe — two distinct mo- 
 tions, and so wonderfully quick that the foot seems 
 to land flat. 
 
 I repeat and emphasize the point — keep the feet 
 level. For instance, strained tendons are most com- 
 mon, and the horse is oblged to limp, the pain is so 
 great, and there can be no pleasure in riding or driv- 
 ing a horse that is suffering at every step he takes. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 69 
 
 The most common cause of distress Is the fact of one 
 side of the shoe being higher than the other. This 
 strains the sesamolidal ligament on the low side. The 
 average veterinaries will bathe and blister for this. 
 The absurdity of this is evident for until the strain 
 is removed from that ligament, all the bathing and 
 blistering in the world won't cure. 
 
 Yes, as you say, many people want to know how a 
 saddle horse should be shod. Use a smooth shoe on 
 him, one without calks. Have the foot leveled prop- 
 erly, and do not go ot any pace except a walk on paved 
 streets; when on mother earth then it's time enough 
 to extend your steed. 
 
 A horse should have its weight evenly suspended, 
 and none of the sole should touch the ground. The 
 footh is elastic and contracts and expands, the frog 
 being especially porous and elastic. Anything that 
 tends to bind the foot is undesirable. The trouble 
 is, very few blacksmiths understand the conformation 
 and structure of the horse's foot, and how can they 
 fit a shoe under such circumstances. He tries to shoe 
 all horses exactly alike and makes no allowances for 
 differences of conformation, which, though of the 
 highest importance, are by him regarded as unworthy 
 of notice. 
 
 In the chapter in the handling of colts and the one 
 on training, additional valuable information on this 
 subject will be found. 
 
70 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 GAITING AND BALANCING. 
 
 (Paper read before the members of the Chicago 
 Veterinary Society by O. E. Dyson, M. D. C, Chief 
 Inspector, Bureau of Animal Industry, U. S. Y., Chi- 
 cag.) 
 
 My object in presenting the subject of shoeing, 
 and incidentally that of gaiting and balancing fast 
 trotters, pacers and ordinary road horses, is to remind 
 the members of this association that an important 
 branch of the profession has been neglected to such 
 an extent in the past that the owner of a knee-knock- 
 ing, forging, interfering or scalping horse seldom ap- 
 peals to the veterinarian for assistance. Lucrative 
 fees are thereby overlooked, and the horse, perhaps a 
 prize, or at least a serviceable animal, is sacrificed, 
 or even worse, allowed to pass from good hands to a 
 cheap owner, whose only object is to pound so much 
 work out of every horse, regardless of the pain and 
 torture endured. From a humanitarian standpoint 
 the veterinarian should at least have a knowledge of 
 the art of shoeing for the purpose of correcting or 
 overcoming faulty gaits, rather than leaving the ani- 
 mal to the tender mercies of the blacksmith, who, 
 nine times out of ten, is only interested to the extent 
 of the price of shoeing. 
 
 The natural gaits of a horse are the walk, trot, pace 
 and gallop. Without attempting to describe the 
 acquired or saddle gaits, the running-walk, fox-trot, 
 single-foot and canter may be referred to as accom- 
 plishments and the result of education. 
 
 Imperfections in the above-mentioned gaits are due 
 to many natural causes, such as lack of education, 
 faulty conformation or abnormalities and from ac- 
 
i 
 t 
 
 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 71 
 
 quired causes, such as improper temperament, exces- 
 sive or non-development of certain voluntary muscles 
 involved in the act of locomotion, or they may he due 
 to ignorance of the owner or blacksmith as to the 
 adaptability of the animal and the proper method of 
 shoeing for the purpose intended. 
 
 While not posing as an authority on shoeing, I 
 have as the result of my observation and experience 
 during the past twenty years associated a few facts 
 in regard to the development of speed, with the art 
 of horseshoeing, or what might properly be termed 
 the art of shoeing and the phenomena of speed devel- 
 opment. 
 
 The first principle necessary to observe with the 
 object of having a perfectly gaited horse, is to study 
 the individual and associate such facts as regards con- 
 formation and general makeup, with his way of going 
 as ordinarily shod, at a clip which is intended to be 
 utilized. The next step to be considered, and the one 
 which should govern the proper method of shoeing, 
 is the horse's temperament. The hores should always 
 be shod according to the dimensions of his mental 
 caliber* 
 
 Shoeing cannot in all instances, however, be made 
 a panacea for correcting faulty gaits of horses. In- 
 telligent bitting and driving must not be over looked, 
 especially if the animal is of a high-strung nervous 
 temperament, and in some instances, owing to a lack 
 of mental co-ordination, the desired result cannot 
 be accomplished by either shoeing or bitting. Resort 
 must then be made to mechanical means, by use of 
 hopples. 
 
 Bits and checks may also be included among the 
 mechanical means of gaiting and balancing horses, 
 and frequently take the place of considerable weight 
 which would otherwise be necessary to add to or take 
 from the shoe, in order to accomplish the purpose. 
 
 A good driver should, through the agency of bit 
 and rein, be able to transmit motor impulses originat- 
 ing in his own brain to the horse. A poor driver, on 
 the other hand, is not only unablo to transmit such 
 impulse, but constantly interrupts the natural motor 
 mpulses originating in the brain of the horse, thereby 
 
72 the horseman's handbook. 
 
 frequently causing a good-galted horse to become 
 addicted to the habit of incoordination, with its at- 
 tending results. You have all no doubt witnessed the 
 disastrous results of placing a good-gaited horse Id 
 a poor driver's hands. 
 
 Interfering is probaly the most constant source of 
 annoyance. In front it is usually due to faulty con 
 formation, involving the chest or forequarter. The 
 thoroughbred type may be cited as confirmed inter 
 ferers, geldings, owing to early castration, being par 
 ticularly predisposed. With this type of a horse 
 interfering is usually due directly to the fact that 
 he is narrow chested, and good action is seldom asso 
 ciated with this type, as a large majority are stiff 
 kneed, owing to a lack of natural muscular develop 
 ment. Contrast the above type with that of a stag 
 or stallion and note the difference in conformation 
 style and action. 
 
 Calf-kneed horses, unless heavy in the chest, witb 
 legs set well apart, are apt to be troublesome. The 
 same may be said of horses with straight pasterns 
 Low headed and sluggish horses might also be placed 
 in this class. Horses that toe out are notorious, and 
 can invariably be placed in the interfering and knee- 
 knocking class, unless they happen to be of a draft 
 horse type, with legs set well apart. Pacers seem to 
 be particularly prone to this malformation, and a paii 
 of knee-boots must accompany every trotter or paceT 
 that possesses a three-minute clip, if he stands toed 
 out. In this connection it may be added that pigeon 
 toed horses never interfere or hit their knees. 
 
 Interfering behind is so common that no class or 
 type of horse can be excepted, as the fault arises from 
 causes too numerous to mention. First of all, narrow, 
 drooping-hipped, low-going trotters are the worst 
 offenders. On the contrary, pacers seldom if ever in 
 terfere, except in walking or going slow. Green 
 horses are apt to interfere during the first six months 
 of their city life, as it requires at least a period of 
 that length to overcome such predisposing causes as 
 walking in a narrow furrow during the early spring 
 work on the farm, and later in the season perhaps 
 doing more or less travel over country roads, where 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 73 
 
 a wide-galted horse finds it very tiresome to cover a 
 distance of a few miles with one foot in a rut and the 
 other upon a ridge. 
 
 In substantiation of the theories expressed regard- 
 ing the farm horse, it may be said that trotting-bred 
 colts, notwithstanding manifest predisposition owing 
 to conformation, seldom interfere after a season's 
 work at the track, owing entirely to a uniform devel- 
 opment of their muscular system, and an intelligent 
 method of shoeing with an object of overcoming such 
 defects, whether natural or acquired. 
 
 Knee-knockers may ordinarily be placed in two dis- 
 tinct classes. First the high-going hores that toes out, 
 and second, the low-going narrow-chested trotter or 
 pacer with speed. Beware of the latter, as he will 
 also, in all probability, interfere when going slow. 
 
 Forging, scalping and shin-hitting are the direct 
 causes of hitching behind, and can usually be asso- 
 ciated with trotters, owing to their inability to prop- 
 erly extend themselves in front. This condition 
 applies particularly to a class of horses with extensor 
 flexor muscles equally developed behind, and compar- 
 atively high, full action, straight or othewise, in con- 
 trast to a dwelling, forward movement of the fore 
 feet, complicated by a lateral twisting or turning of 
 the foot, or leg, either in or out, due to nondevelop- 
 ment of the extensor muscles of the anterior limb. 
 Line-pacers will frequently brush their hind coronet 
 hard enough to cause them to hitch or roll in their 
 efforts to avoid the contact, which seriously inter- 
 feres with the development of speed. 
 
 Horses that carry a high head on account of tender 
 mouths are frequently addicted to the habit of inter- 
 fering with the coronary band behind, owing to the 
 fact their attention is concentrated on the mouth. 
 Here it is plain to be seen that the reflex motor im- 
 pulses in excess cause a high free action in front at 
 the expense of their hind action. When proper bitting 
 fails in such cases it is often necessary to use a shoe 
 much heavier behind than in front, in order to over- 
 come or counterbalance the reflected motor impulses. 
 On the other hand pullers and luggers are frequently 
 the result of a lack of requisite amount of weight in 
 
74 the horseman's handbook. 
 
 the front shoes or an excessive weight in the hind 
 shoes necessary to balance the brain. 
 
 Hitting the elbows is due to overdevelopment of the 
 flexor muscles and in order to overcome the fault it 
 hase been found necessary to develop the extensors by 
 use of toe-weights. In many instances, however, it 
 will be found necessary to let the heels grow high in 
 order to lessen the tension upon the flexor muscles. 
 This will to some extent retard flexion until momen- 
 tum has carried the body past the center of gravity 
 or the point where flexion ceases and extension begins. 
 That is, the object should be to intercept the act of 
 flexion before it is completed and hasten the act of 
 extension. In case the orfender has long toes it may be 
 necessary to shorten them or to add a small toe-calk 
 to the shoe which in many instances will suffice with- 
 out the addition of toe-weights. 
 
 Anticipating the question, "How is a person to 
 know when the horse is properly gaited and bal- 
 anced?" I can only answer by saying that it depends 
 entirely upon the judgment of the driver, or the per- 
 son superintending the shoeing. Mention might be 
 made of a few cardinal points however. For instance, 
 any man, unless he be devoid of sensation, may ob- 
 serve when a horse driven on a level road gives him 
 the sensation of driving on a down grade that horse 
 needs a weight to develop his extension in front. On 
 the other hand, should he seem to be ascending or 
 climbing a grade, the reverse is true, and the remedy 
 would be to lessen the weight in front and increase 
 it behind. You should always be able to drive a well 
 balanced horse without a check, and not experience 
 the sensations mentioned. 
 
 The wonderful speed attained by trotters and pacers 
 during the past few years has, without question, been 
 solely due to the development of brain and nerve, of 
 which an inherited trotting or pacing instinct Is a re- 
 sult in the progeny of developed sires and dams. In 
 proof of this fact reference might be made to the 
 thoroughbred, whose development by contrast would 
 seem insignificant, and may be accounted for by the 
 fact that the same system of shoeing and training 
 now in vogue was in use twenty years ago, brain and 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 75 
 
 nerve development having been almost wholly con- 
 fided to the jockey and trainer and the natural results 
 of heredity. 
 
 A normally developed brain and nervous system 
 will invariably reflect the physical condition. On the 
 other hand, the physical condition will reflect an ab- 
 normality. Most of the world's records in tests of 
 speed and endurance are held by stallions, by mere 
 force of predominating will power. "Conditioning the 
 brain" should therefor be used in lieu of the familiar 
 term "legging him up," as expressed by horsemen 
 when preparing a horse to carry his speed and go the 
 route. 
 
 In shoeing horses to obviate or overcome a faulty 
 conformation or gait it must be remembered that in 
 the beginning of the stride the foot leaves the ground 
 from the point farthest from the median line or cen- 
 ter of gravity, and the greatest muscular efforts in 
 flexing the limb from that point are confined to the 
 muscles farthest removed. For example— in a horse 
 that toes out the abductor muscles that assist in the 
 act of flexion are highly developed in comparison with 
 the abductors involved in the act. Consequently the 
 foot, during its elevation, is in such a position as to 
 cause it to describe the arc of a circle during the act 
 of extension, thereby bringing it in contact with the 
 ankle, shin or knee, depending of course upon the 
 height of flexion. The same is true with a pigeon- 
 toed horse, except that the arc of the circle described 
 is that of abduction, consequently there is never any 
 interference with the opposite member. In either 
 case, however, there is apt to be considerable inter- 
 ference with the forward movement of the hind foot 
 or leg while partly extended, and at that time the act 
 of forging, shin bitting, scalping or grabbing the 
 quarter occurs with trotters. With pacers only the 
 act of abduction of the forefoot causes any interfer- 
 ence with the forward movement of the opposite hind 
 foot, the usual result of which is grabbing the quar- 
 ter or brushing the hind coronet. 
 
 It would be impossible to form set rules for shoeing 
 in order to overcome defects in gait, either natural, 
 owing to conformation, predisposition and tempera- 
 
76 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 ment, or acquired as heretofore mentioned. A safe 
 rule to follow, however, is to ascertain the cause and 
 overcome it by mental balance or physical develop- 
 ment. 
 
 In this connection I have no hesitancy in saying 
 that too much attention has been given to the foot 
 and apparently no notice taken by the average horse 
 owner or blacksmith of the fact that a horse is pos- 
 sessed of a brain, which controls all volutary move- 
 ments, and that too much emphasis cannot be placed 
 upon the fact that the highest nerve centers have 
 been in the ordinary process of mechanical shoeing, 
 habitually subordinated to inferior, or pedal extrem- 
 ities. 
 
 A term which fully expressed my theory of horse 
 shoeing is "Shoe for the purpose of balancing the 
 brain," or in other words, for the purpose of physical 
 development, the establishment and maintenance of 
 perfect co-ordination between the brain and volun- 
 tary muscular system involved in the development of 
 a natural or acquired gait, rather than a purely 
 mechanical standpoint. When you have succeeded In 
 doing this you may depend upon the rest of the ani- 
 mal economy to work in unison, and rapid progress 
 can then be made in the development of an ideal 
 road horse or of prospective speed. It might be well 
 however, to mention the use of hopples as the only 
 successful mechanical means of overcoming inco-or- 
 dination of motor impulses in trotters or pacers, when 
 physical and functional development fails. But In 
 proof of the fact that physical and mental develop- 
 ment go hand in hand, note the scarcity of hoppled 
 horses today in comparison with a few years ago, 
 when the system of development and training was 
 simply mechanical. 
 
 Motor impulses are always the result of stimuli 
 originating by direct or reflex action upon the sensory 
 nerves, and transmitted to the brain for the purpose 
 of elaboration and direction. Thus we find that vol- 
 untary muscles to which motor impulses are directed 
 in excess of other muscles, develop accordingly, or 
 according to their use or disuse. As mental and 
 physical development ia all instances is directly re- 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 77 
 
 sponsible for the perfection of the gait of a sound 
 horse, and being directly subject to the will of man, 
 through education, it is plain to be seen that the effect 
 of increasing or diminishing the weight in the shoe, 
 or changing the angle of the foot, and consequently 
 the position of the limb, will be communicated to the 
 brain and transformed into motor impulses, and the 
 desired effect, that of development of the muscles 
 necessary to overcome the original defect, will be 
 accomplished. 
 
 The greatest difficulty encountered in shoeing 
 horses for the purpose of gaiting or balancing is to 
 be able to convince the owner that instantaneous re- 
 sults cannot be accomplished. It is impossible to 
 immediately overcome excessive or non-development, 
 either physical or functional, by merely changing the 
 angle of the foot, the weight or the shape of the 
 shoes. 
 
 The following are a few of the common points to be 
 observed before attempting to direct the shoeing of a 
 horse to prevent interfering, or to overcome a faulty 
 gait: 
 
 First note the general conformation and posture of 
 the feet and legs with reference to their anatomical 
 relations, while standing in a natural position. By 
 standing in front of the animal and drawing an 
 imaginary line from the upper portion of the leg to 
 the point of the toe, any abnormality such as toeing 
 out or in can be readily discerned. 
 
 Change your position and note the pastern with ref- 
 erence to its straightness or obliquity. A slight 
 springing or tendency toward being calf kneed may 
 also be noted at this time. 
 
 Pick up each foot and carefully note how each shoe 
 has been worn, their approximate weight and length 
 of service, and make a careful inquiry of the driver as 
 regards the horse's disposition and driving qualities. 
 Also observe the kind of bit and check used. 
 
 Then have the horse driven over a smooth pave- 
 ment, directly in front of you for a short distance and 
 returned in the same manner, at a clip ordinarily re- 
 quired or generally utiltized. From this position It 
 is easy to note the carriage of the foot or limb during 
 
78 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 the progress of the stride. After viewing the horse 
 from this position, both at rest and in motion, step 
 back a few paces, have him driven past you several 
 times in order that you may carefully note the height 
 of flexion and the act of extension, either of which 
 may be the primary cause of interference or faulty 
 gait, and possibly as easily remedied as seen. 
 
 During this exercise every movement of the animal 
 must be noted, and especially that of the offending 
 foot or limb, as regards its relation to the rest of the 
 animal economy. 
 
 INDIANA'S PROPOSED RINGING LAW. 
 
 1 — In order to encourage the breeding of, and im- 
 provement in, trotting and pacing horses in the State 
 of Indiana, it is hereby made unlawful for any per- 
 son or persons knowingly to enter, or cause to be 
 entered for competition, or knowingly to compete 
 with any horse, mare, gelding, colt or filly under any 
 other than its true name or out of its proper class for 
 any purse, prize, premium, stake or sweepstakes 
 offered or given by any agricultural or other society, 
 association, person or persons in the State of Indiana, 
 where such prize, purse, premium, stake or sweep- 
 stakes is to be decided by a contest of speed. 
 
 2 — Any person or persons found guilty of a viola- 
 tion of section 1 of this act shall upon conviction 
 thereof be imprisoned in the state's prison for a 
 period of not less than one year or more than three 
 
 •ars, or imprisoned in the county jail of the county 
 in which he is convicted for any definite period not 
 less than six months or shall be fined in any sum not 
 less than one hundred dollars nor more than one hun- 
 dred dollars. The name of any horse, mare, gelding, 
 colt or filly, for the purpose of entry for competition 
 or performance in any contest of speed, shall be the 
 name under which said horse has publicly performed 
 and shall not be changed after once so performed, or 
 having contested for a prize, purse, premium, stake 
 or sweepstakes, except as provided by the code of 
 printed rules of the society or association under 
 which the contest is advertised to be conducted. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 79 
 
 THE RULES FOR REGISTRATION. 
 
 THE TROTTINO STANDABD. 
 
 1 — The progeny of a registered standard trotting 
 horse and a registered standard trotting mare. 
 
 2 — A stallion sired by a registered standard trot- 
 ting horse, provided his dam and grandam were sired 
 by resigtered standard trotting horses, and he him- 
 self has a trotting record of 2:30 and is the sire of 
 three trotters with records of 2:30, from different 
 mares. 
 
 3 — A mare whose sire is a registered standard trot- 
 ting horse, and whose dam and grandam were sired 
 by registered standard trotting horses, provided she 
 herself has a trotting record of 2:30 or is the dam 
 of one trotter with a record of 2:30. 
 
 4 — A mare sired by a registered standard trotting 
 horse, provided she is the dam of two trotters with 
 records of 2:30. 
 
 5 — A mare sired by a registered standard trotting 
 horse, provided her first, second and third dams are 
 each sired by a registered standard trotting horse. 
 
 THE PACING STANDARD. 
 
 In order to define what constitutes a standard-bred 
 pacing horse and to establish a breed of pacers on a 
 more intelligent basis, the following rules are adopted 
 to control admission to registration. When an animal 
 meets the requirements of admission and is duly reg- 
 istered, it shall be accepted as a standard-bred pacing 
 animal. 
 
 1 — The progeny of a registered standard pacing 
 horse and a registered standard pacing mare. 
 
 2— A stallion sired by a registered standard pacing 
 horse, providing his dam and grandam were sired 
 by registered standard pacing horses, and he himself 
 has a pacing record of 2:25, and is the sire of three 
 pacers with records of 2:25, from different mares. 
 
 3 — A mare whose sire is a registered standard pac- 
 ing: horse and whose dam and grandam were sired by 
 registered standard pacing horses, provided she her. 
 
80 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 self has a pacing record of 2:25, or is the dam of 
 one pacer with a record of 2:25. 
 
 4 — A mare sired by a registered standard pacing 
 horse, provided she is the dam of two pacers with 
 records of 2:25. 
 
 5 — A mare sired by a registered standard pacing 
 horse, provided her first, second and third dams are 
 each sired by a registered standard pacing horse. 
 
 6 — The progeny of a registered standard trotting 
 horse out of a registered standard pacing mare, or of 
 a registered standard pacing horse out of a registered 
 standard trotting mare. 
 
 CONFORMATION OF THE CHAMPIONS. 
 
 If your coming world beater is built along these lines 
 you may or may not have a champion: 
 
 Lou Dan. 
 
 Dillon. Patch. 
 
 Height at withers 15.0% 15.2% 
 
 Height at coupling 15.0% 15.3% 
 
 Length from point of shoulder to swell of 
 
 quarter 16.1% 15.3 
 
 Length of head, from poll to tip of muzzle 25% 26 
 Length of neck, from poll to notch In verte- 
 brae, at withers 30% 33 
 
 Girth at heart 66% 72 
 
 Girth at waist 65 74 
 
 Length of foreleg; point of elbow to ground 35 88 
 Length of front cannon; center of knee to 
 
 center of ankle 11% 
 
 Circumference of forearm, at swell , 18% 19% 
 
 Circumference of front cannon, midway be- 
 low knee 7% 8 
 
 Length from point of knee at rear to ground . . . 21% 
 
 Length of hind leg; point of stifle to ground 37% .... 
 
 Length of hind leg; point of hock to ground 22% 25 
 
 Length from point of hip to point of hock 35 42% 
 
 Circumference of hind cannon 8% 
 
 Length from point of stifle to point of hock .... 23 
 
 Width of hips, point to point 25 24% 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 81 
 
 HOW TO LAY OUT TRACKS. 
 
 In giving these rules they are just for the ordinary 
 home-made track, as for any other a professional's 
 services should be secured. 
 
 HALF-MILE. 
 
 For a half-mile track draw two parallel lines 600 
 feet long and 452 feet and 5 inches apart. Half-way 
 between the extreme ends of the two parallel lines, 
 drive a stake; then loop a wire around the stake long 
 enough to reach to either side. Then make a true 
 curve with the wire, putting down a stake as often as 
 a fence post is needed. When this operation is fin- 
 ished at both ends of the 600 foot parallel lines, the 
 track is laid out. The inside fence will rest exactly 
 on the line drawn from the fence. The turns should 
 be thrown up an inch, or an inch and an eighth, to 
 the foot. The stretches may be anywhere from forty- 
 five to sixty feet wide. 
 
 ONE MLLE. 
 
 For a mile track, draw a line through an oblong 
 center 400 yards in length, setting a stake at each 
 end. Then draw a line on either side of the first 
 line, exactly parallel with and 417 feet and two inches 
 from it, setting a stake at either end of them. You 
 will then have an oblong square 440 yards long and 
 834 feet four inches wide. At each end of these 
 three lines set stakes. Now fasten a cord or wire 
 417 feet and two inches long to the center stake of 
 your parallelogram and describe a half circle, driving 
 stakes as often as you wish to set a fence post. 
 When the circle is made at both ends of your paral- 
 lelogram you will have two straight sides and two 
 half circles, which, measured three feet from the 
 fence will be exactly a mile. The turn should be 
 thrown up an inch, or an inch and an eighth, to the 
 foot. 
 
 KITE TEACK. 
 
 This track is simply a track with two one-third 
 mile stretches and a turn of the same length. This 
 track was designed for speed and speed alone, hence 
 the average reader will not be interested in minute 
 details of Its construction. 
 
82 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 HORSE PAPERS. 
 Trotting and Pacing. 
 
 Horse Review. $2.50 per year — John C. Bauer, Masonic 
 
 Temple, Chicago, 111. 
 Horseman and Spirit of the Times, $2.00 per year — D. J. 
 
 Campau, Morton Bldg., Chicago, 111. 
 Horse World, $2.00 per year — C. R. Bentley, Buffalo, N. Y. 
 Trotter and Pacer, $2.00 per year — Sidney S. Toman, 
 
 Gerken Bldg., New York. 
 Canadian Sportsman. $2.00 per year — James A. Livingston, 
 
 Grimsby, Ontario. 
 Western Horseman, $2.00 per year — Dr. J. W. Neal, Indian- 
 apolis, Ind. 
 Stock Farm, $2.00 per year — D. Gray Falconer, Lexington, 
 
 Ky. 
 Spirit of the West, $1.00 per year — P. S. Kell, Des Moines, 
 
 Iowa. 
 Breeder and Sportsman, $3.00 per year — F. W. Kelley, San 
 
 Francisco, Cal. 
 American Horse Breeder, $2.00 per year — T. L. Quimby, 
 
 Boston, Mass. 
 American Sportsman, $2.00 per year — Jas. B. Sherwood, 
 
 Cleveland, O. 
 Horse Journal, $1.00 per year — W. J. Galvin, Jamestown. O. 
 Pacific Horse Review, $2.00 per year— John McClintock, Portland, 
 
 Ore. 
 
 Show Horse. 
 
 Rider and Driver, $5.00 per year — S. W. Taylor, Townsend 
 Bldg., New York. 
 
 General Breeder of Horses. 
 
 Breeders' Gazetto, $1.75 per year — L. K. Hildebrand, Pon- 
 
 tiac Bldg., Chicago, 111. 
 Rural Spirit, $1.50 per year — II. C. Brown, Portland, Ore. 
 
 Running Horse. 
 
 Thoroughbred Record, $2.00 per year — Thos. F. Kelly, Lex- 
 ington, Ky. 
 
 Subscriptions taken for all of the above papers by Mag- 
 nus Flaws Co., 542 So. Dearborn St., Chicago. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 83 
 
 LIST OF STUD BOOK ASSOCIATIONS, WITH 
 SECRETARIES OF SAME. 
 
 The following is a list of all the American Stud 
 Book Associations recognized by the various Stallion 
 Registration Boards: 
 
 American Trotting Register Association, Wm. H. 
 Knight, Sec'y, 137 S. Ashland Ave., Chicago. 
 
 Arabian Horse Club of America, H. K. Rush-Brown, 
 Sec'y, 1729 G. St., N. W., Washington, D. C. 
 
 American Association of Importers and Breeders 
 of Belgian Draft Horses, J. D. Conner, Jr., Sec'y, 
 Wabash, Ind. 
 
 Cleveland Bay Society of America, R. P. Stericker, 
 Sec'y, Oconomowoc, Wis. 
 
 American Clydesdale Association, R. B. Ogilvie, 
 Sec'y, Union Stock Yards, Chicago, 111. 
 
 French Coach Horse Society of America, Duncan 
 E. Willet, Sec'y, Maple Ave. and Harrison St., Oak 
 Park, 111. 
 
 National French Draft Horse Association of Amer- 
 ica, C. E. Stubbs, Sec'y, Fairfield. Iowa. 
 
 German, Hanoverian and Oldenburg Coach Horse 
 Association of America, J. Crouch, Sec'y, La Fay- 
 ette, Ind. 
 
 American Hackney Horse Society, Gurney C. Gue, 
 Sec'y, 308 W. 97th St., New York. N. Y. 
 
 American Morgan Register, T. E. Boyce, Sec'y, 
 Middlebury, Vt. 
 
 Percheron Society of America, Wayne Dinsmore, 
 Sec'y, U. S. Yards, Chicago, 111. 
 
 The American Breeders' and Importers' Percheron 
 Registry Co., John A. Forney, Sec'y, Plainfield, O. 
 
 American Saddle Horse Breeders' Association, I. 
 B. Nail, Sec'y, Louisville, Ky. 
 
 American Shetland Pony Club, J. M. Wade, Sec'y, 
 La Fayette, Ind. 
 
 Welsh Pony and Cob Society of America, John 
 Alexander, Sec'y, Aurora, 111. 
 
 American Shire Horse Association, Charles Bur- 
 gess, Sec'y, Wenona, 111. 
 
 American Suffolk Horse Association, Alex Gal- 
 braith, Sec'y, Janesville, Wis. 
 
 The Jockey Club, W. H. Rowe, Registrar, 6-8 Bast 
 46th St., New York, N. Y. 
 
84 THE HORSEMAN S HANDBOOK. 
 
 LIST OP STATES HAVING STALLION REGISTRA- 
 TION LAWS AND OFFICERS IN CHARGE 
 
 IDAHO. 
 
 Dr. G. E. Noble, State Live Stock Sanitary Board, 
 Boise, Idaho. 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 J. K. Dickirson, Sec'y Stallion Registration Board, 
 Springfield, 111. 
 
 IOWA. 
 
 A. R. Corey, Act. Sec'y Board of Agriculture, Des 
 Moines, Iowa. 
 
 KANSAS. 
 
 C. W. McCampbell, Sec'y State Live Stock Reg. 
 Board, Manhattan, Kan. 
 
 MINNESOTA. 
 
 Prof. T. L. Haecker, Sec'y Stallion Registration 
 Board, University Farm, St. Paul, Minn. 
 
 MONTANA. 
 
 Prof. R. W. Clark, Animal Husbandman, Agricul- 
 tural College, Bozeman, Mont. 
 
 NEBRASKA. 
 
 Prof. H. R. Smith, Animal Husbandman, Univer- 
 sity of Nebraska, Lincoln, Neb. 
 
 NEW JERSEY. r 
 
 Prof. F. C. Minkler, Sec'y Live Stock Commission, 
 New Brunswick, New Jersey. 
 
 NORTH DAKOTA. 
 
 Prof. W. B. Richards, Animal Husbandman, Agri- 
 cultural College, Fargo, N. D. 
 
 OREGON. 
 
 Ermine L. Potter, Sec'y Stallion Registration 
 Board, Corvallis, Oregon. 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA. 
 
 Dr. Carl W. Gay, State Live Stock Sanitary Board, 
 Harrisburg, Pa. 
 
 SOUTH DAKOTA. 
 
 Prof. James W. Wilson, Sec'y Stallion Registration 
 Board, Agricultural College, Brookings, S. D. 
 
 UTAH. 
 
 Prof. John T. Caine III, Animal Husbandman, Agri- 
 cultural College, Logan, Utah. s 
 
 WISCONSIN. 
 
 Dr. A. S. Alexander, Sec'y Stallion Registration 
 Board, Madison, Wis. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 85 
 
 A BARB WIRE DRAG. 
 
 "I have used the barb wire harrow on the track 
 and the pastures at my farm for some years," writes 
 a prominent breeder, "and find it about the most 
 useful implement on tne place, especially in its work 
 on pastures. Frequently, and at least once a month 
 during the pasture season, I drag my fields both 
 ways with a barb wire drag I make on the place. It 
 thoroughly distributes and pulverizes the droppings, 
 thus preventing the growth of rank grass about them 
 and tends to prevent the pastures from becoming hide 
 bound, and for these purposes I find it far superior to 
 any drag or harrow made. It is also by far the best 
 drag to use in covering grass seed. 
 
 "To make it take a 2x4, 16 feet long, and every 2y 2 
 inches fasten with staples a strand of barb wire 20 
 to 24 feet long, and about 4 to 6 feet back from this 
 2x4 place another one, stapling the wire fast to it. In 
 order to keep the wire from curling up while it is 
 being made tack the free end of each wire to a 
 board laid parallel to the 2x4. When it is finished, 
 turn it over so that the 2x4s will be on top, take 
 away the board the ends are tacked to and let them 
 curl up. Hitch the team quite a distance from it 
 so that the draft will not lift it from the ground, 
 throw a plank across ine ends that have curled up,' 
 so as to press them into the grass, and it is ready 
 for use. 
 
 "It is a wicked thing to have around where there 
 is young stock. I always remove every animal from 
 the field it is being used in, and have a safe place 
 to keep in when not in use. As it is sixteen feet wide 
 it does not take long to cross-drag a forty-acre field. 
 In using it after grass seed sowing, take off the plank 
 used to weight it, and I generally find that dragging 
 the field one way is sufficient. I then put the roller 
 on the field." 
 
86 THE horseman's handbook. 
 
 HOW TO GROOM A HORSE. 
 
 The few stable hands who know how to groom a 
 horse properly, are generally too indolent to do it. 
 It is quite an art to clean a horse as he should be 
 cleaned, and it is no easy job. For that reason he is 
 seldom groomed as he should be. A groom must be 
 active, strong and experienced. Every inch of the 
 horse, beginning at the head, should be gone over 
 thoroughly with brush, comb and rag. A man who 
 would not much rather take care of his own horse, 
 providing he has the time, has not true love for the 
 horse. No animal will repay one for care and atten- 
 tion like the horses. He will show it not only in 
 appearance externally, but in health and spirits. 
 Good grooming will do as much in improving the 
 condition of a horse as an additional four quarts of 
 oats per day. 
 
 In grooming a horse properly he should be tied 
 from side to side so that he cannot throw his head 
 around and work himself all over the floor, which he 
 is sure to do under the comb if he is not of a dis- 
 position too phlegmatic to feel the scratching. A 
 good brush and comb are required as well as a broom- 
 corn brush for the mane and tail. Never use the 
 comb on the horse's head. If he has any spirit at all 
 he will not endure it. Take the brush in the right 
 hand and the head stall in the left steady his head 
 while brushing gently, and then with the comb in 
 the left hand curry the neck from behind the ear 
 and the entire right side. Go through the same 
 process on the left side; leave no space untouched. 
 After currying take the brush and brush the hair 
 the wrong way, scraping the brush at intervals with 
 the comb to clean it. Then go the right way with the 
 brush; follow the brush with a woolen rag — rubbing 
 the hair up and then smoothing it. Don't spare 
 elbow grease and the horse will show his keep and 
 act as he feels. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 87 
 
 KANSAS POOL SELLING LAW. 
 
 With the view to prospective legislation the coming win- 
 ter, I have had some inquiries as to the law on the statute 
 books in states where betting on races is legal, and for the 
 information of all who are interested in favorable legisla- 
 tion along this line the law now in force in the state of 
 Kansas is herewith appended: 
 
 "Section 2,396. Bookmaking— That any person who keeps 
 any room, shed, tenement, booth, or building, or any part 
 thereof, or who occupies any place upon any public or pri- 
 vate grounds within this state with any book, instrument, or 
 device for the purpose of recording or registering bets or 
 wagers, or selling pools, upon the result of any trial or 
 contest of skill, speed, or power of endurance of man or 
 beast, which is to be made or take place within or beyond 
 the limits of this state, except within the inclosure of a race 
 track and upon races of trials of speed being conducted 
 within said inclosure (provided that the exception herein 
 shall not apply to any race track or inclosure for more than 
 two weeks in any one year), or any person who records or 
 registers bets or wagers, or sells pools upon the result of 
 any trial or contest of skill, speed, or power of endurance 
 of "man or beast, which is to be made or take place within or 
 beyond this state, or upon the result of any political nomi- 
 nation, appointment, or election which is to be made or held 
 either within or beyond the limits of this state, or being the 
 owner, lessee, or occupant of any room, shed, tenement, or 
 tent, booth or building, or part thereof, knowingly permits 
 the same to be used or occupied for any of the purposes 
 hereinbefore prohibited, or therein keeps, exhibits, or em- 
 ploys any device or apparatus for the purpose of registering 
 such bets or wagers, or selling pools, as are hereinbefore 
 prohibited, or becomes the custodian or depository for hire 
 or privilege of any money, property, or thing of value which 
 Is staked, wagered, or pledged, contrary to the provisions of 
 this act, shall be guilty of a misdemeanor, and on convic- 
 tion shall be punished by imprisonment in the county jail 
 tor a period of one year and by a flue of $1,000." 
 
$$ THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 TO TELL, THE AGE OF ANY HORSE. 
 
 To tell the age of any horse, 
 Inspect the lower jaw. of course; 
 The six fore teeth the tale will tell 
 And every fear and doubt dispel. 
 Two middle "nippers" you behold 
 Before the colt is two weeks old. 
 Before eight weeks two more will 
 
 come. 
 Eight months the corners cut the gum. 
 The outside grooves will disappear 
 From middle two in just one year; 
 In two years from the second pair. 
 In three the "corners," too, are bare. 
 At two, the middle "nippers" drop; 
 At three the second pair can't stop; 
 When four years old the third pair 
 
 goes; 
 At five a full new set he shows. 
 The black spots will pass from view 
 At six years from the middle two; 
 The second part at seven years; 
 At eight each spot the "corner" clears. 
 From the middle "nippers,," upper jaw, 
 At nine the black spots will withdraw; 
 The second pair at ten are white; 
 Eleven finds the "corners" light. 
 As time goes on the horsemen know 
 That oval teeth three-sided grow; 
 They longer get, project before 
 Till twenty, when we know no more. 
 
THE HOBSEMAN r S HANDBOOK. 89 
 
 
 FOR 5ALE 
 
 COMPLETE SET OF THE TROTTING REGISTER 
 COMPLETE SET OF THE YEAR ROOK 
 
 This is a rare chance as 11 volumes are now out of 
 print and cannot be had at any price. 
 
 From an estate we have secured Vol. 3 to 19 of the 
 Trotting Register, and as the first numbered horsei 
 commence in Vol. 4 this makes a complete set. 
 
 Also Vol. 3 to 27 of the Year Book, and as the first 
 7 volumes are included in Vol. 8. part 1 and 2, this 
 makes a complete set. 
 
 All are in good condition, some of them absolutely new 
 
 A very low price will quoted on the entire 43 voir 
 
 or singly you wish. 
 
 The latest volume of the Register is Vol. 19. 
 Price $5.00 
 
 The latest volume of the Year Book is Vol. 27. 
 Price $5.00 
 
 For prices, etc., address. 
 
 MAGNUS PLAWS & CO. 
 542 S. Dearborn St. Chicago. 
 
* 
 
 90 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Horseman's Annual 
 
 (Issued January l, each year.) 
 
 This great little book should be secured by 
 every horseman who desires to keep 
 thoroughly posted, whether he be a nov- 
 ice or an expert. 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 2:30 performers under their sires. 
 
 2:30 performers under sires of dams. 
 
 Leading sires 
 
 Leading brood mare sires 
 
 Principal events chrono logically. 
 
 Best records all ages and sexes. 
 
 Champion records for all ages, all distances, 
 both sexes, over mile and half-mile tracks. 
 
 Champion records by amateur drivers. 
 
 Champion trotters — arranged chronologically. 
 
 Leading progenitors of 2:30 speed. 
 
 Leading sires of last 20 years. 
 
 Leading sires of extreme speed. 
 
 Dams of two or more 2:10 performers. 
 
 Dams of ten or more standard performers. 
 
 Highest prices paid for horses. 
 
 Reduction of half-mile track records ar- 
 ranged chronologically. 
 
 Tables showing fractional time of speed by 
 a horse traveling from 3:00 to 2:00, feet 
 covered per second, how many seconds 
 will distance a horse at different rates of 
 speed, etc., etc. 
 
 Tables showing winners, drivers, time, etc., 
 in the various futurities and all fixed and 
 stake events from their inception to date. 
 
 Rules of the American Trotting Turf. 
 
 Rules for admission to trotting registry. 
 
 Rules for laying out tracks. 
 
 Many other tables and articles of interest 
 and value. 
 
 Price, bound in leatherene, $1 postpaid. 
 
 MAGNUS FLAWS & CO. 
 
 542 DEARBORN ST. CHICAGO. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 91 
 
 BOOKS FOR STALLION OWNERS. 
 
 Stallion Service BeoorA. 
 
 The most complete book for recording stallion serv- 
 ice ever placed before breeders. Not a pocket edition. 
 No more disputing of sires. No more mixing of dams 
 where this book is used. There is space for entering 
 100 mares, giving their full breeding description, 
 dates of service, dates of foaling, with a page for 
 tabulating pedigree of stallion in use, etc., etc., with 
 index, complete, size 10x7%. Each book is hand- 
 somely and substantially bound. Can be used for any 
 
 kind of pedigreed stock. 200 pages $2.00 
 
 Tne Standard Stallion Service Book. 
 
 The neatest Service Book published, containing 
 space for entering 100 mares, giving space for full 
 description, pedigree, date of services and refusals, 
 date of foaling, etc., with index complete, neatly 
 bound in leatherine, suitable for pocket use. Can be 
 used for any kind of pedigreed stock $1.00 
 
 Breeder's Note and Certificate Book and Stallion Serv- 
 ice Book Combined. 
 
 This book contains 75 blank certificates to be given 
 to owners of mares, certifying that said mare has 
 been bred to a certain stallion. Also 75 notes suitable 
 for owner of mare giving to owner of stallion on 
 account of stallion service fee. This book is well 
 bound, and makes a book like No. 2, after certificates 
 and notes have been removed. Can be used for any 
 kind of pedigreed stock $1.00 
 
 All three to one address for $3.00. 
 
 Tabulating- Blanks for Extending- Pedigrees of Blooded 
 stock. r$f&SK 
 
 Small blanks 25c per dozen, 5c each. Neatly ruled 
 
 blanks, 14x17, 50c per dozen, 4 for 25c, 10c each. 
 
 Large handsome blanks suitable for framing, 19x24, 
 
 six for $1.00; 25c each. 
 
 Address MAGNUS FLAWS & CO., 542 Dearborn St., Chicago 
 
92 
 
 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 Ho r s e B re eders 
 
 ARTIFICIAL 
 MARE IMPREGNATORS 
 
 Will enable any breeder to get more mares in foal witb 
 one stallion or jack during a breeding season tban he 
 could possibly get in foal witb two stallions or jacks in 
 the natural way without an Impregnator, therefore they 
 will greatly increase your profits from your breeding 
 operations, while saving both you and the mare owners 
 much valuable time and annoyance. We guarantee that 
 as many as six mares may be successfully impregnated 
 with our Impregnators from a single service, while no 
 previous experience or scientific knowledge is necessary. 
 Prices, $3.00 to $5.00. 
 
 Our popular Improved "Safety" Impregnating Outfit is 
 especially designed and recommended for getting in foal 
 irregular breeding and so-called barren mares. Imitated 
 like all other articles of merit, yet it has never been 
 equaled. Price, $5.00. 
 
 Look for the name "BREEDERS SUPPLY CO." when 
 making purchases in this line; we stamp it on each 
 article we manufacture and it insures the buyer of its 
 quality and reliability. Our Impregnating Devices are 
 making money for breeders in every civilized country. 
 Are you getting your share? The first foal got as a 
 direct result of their use will more than repay you the 
 small amount of their cost. 
 
 Write us for our free ^8-page Catalog which illustrates 
 and describes these Impregnating Devices, also Stallion 
 Shields, Supports, Bridles, Breeding Hobbles, Invigorating 
 Tonic, Abortion Preventive, Emasculators, Syringes of 
 various kinds and other Horse Breeders Specialties. First 
 quality only at reasonable prices. 
 
 MAGNUS FLAWS & CO. 
 
 542 S. Dearborn St., CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
 Increase Your Profits 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 93 
 
 HORSE BOOKS 
 
 The following Is a list of the standard books on 
 horse matters. We will send them to any address on 
 receipt of price: 
 
 Training" the Trotting 1 Hone. — By Charles Marvin. 
 This great practical horse book explains in every detail 
 the remarkable success of Charles Marvin and the whole 
 plans and methods pursued at Palo Alto as to breaking, 
 training, shoeing, galting, driving, keeping, racing and 
 breeding trotters, from foaling time up. Prepaid. .$3.50 
 
 Artistic Horse Shoeing". — Prof. Rich. Special direc- 
 tions for shaping shoes to cure different diseases of the 
 foot and for the correction of faulty action. Filled with 
 Illustrations of different shaped shoes, each designed 
 for a special purpose. Price, cash $2.00 
 
 The Parmer's Veterinary Advisor. — A guide to the 
 prevention and treatment of diseases in domestic ani- 
 mals, by James Law, Professor of Veterinary Science in 
 Cornell University; Veterinary Alumnus of the Highland 
 and Agricultural Society of Scotland; Fellow of the 
 Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons of Great Britain. 
 The most valuable work on the subject extant Tenth 
 edition. Over 600 pages and numerous illustratlona 
 Price, prepaid $ 3.00 
 
 Diseases of Horses and Cattle. — Written especially for 
 the farmer, stockman and veterinary student, by D. 
 Mcintosh, professor of Veterinary Science in the uni- 
 versity of Illinois. Price, prepaid $2.00 
 
 Johnstone's Horse Breeding.— Being the general prin- 
 ciples of heredity, applied to the business of breeding 
 horses and the management of stallions, brood mares 
 and foals. The book embraces all that the breeder 
 should know in regard to the selection of stock, man- 
 agement of the stallion, brood mare and foal, and treat- 
 ment of diseases peculiar to brooding animals. Prepaid 
 to any address $2 50 
 
 The Saddle Horse.— Everything you want to know as to riding, 
 teaching gaits, etc $1 00 
 
 Address Magnus Flaws & Co., Chicago. 
 
04 
 
 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 CUTS OF HORSES 
 
 MADE FROM 
 
 PHOTOS 
 
 Cuts of All Kinds 
 Carried in Stock 
 
 For Samples and Prices 
 
 Address 
 
 MAGNUS FLAWS & CO. 
 
 Engravers and Printers 
 
 542 S. Dearborn Street, CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
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 THE HORSEMAN'S HANDBOOK. 
 
 We furnish a 
 
 Complete Tabulated Pedigree 
 
 of Any Horse 
 
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 of Any Horse 
 
 TABULATING BLANKS, ALL SIZES 
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 ETC. 
 
 WRITE FOR TERMS 
 
 MAGNUS FLAWS & CO. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 
JUL 28 1912