"^^.^'0..-* .0 '^. i\ %4^' :^ ^ : '^ .^^ :^> % / _ % .^' ^^. ^^. ^_^ jO ^^ ,s^<^. .0 0^ ■y o. J ^ .-* . ,x^^^ '>: .4 % ^--'VV- 'c^ o - ^ .^^^ ^^'.^^'' :'/ -0^ 0^^ V 3.N vV-' .s^ %. ^> - ^ .^% .^^^^ '^ ^0 •s ,-0' L' ^- "bo^ J^ '^'^.. . r^ d> ■-■ ^. >• ,o - ..x^^' •^., X^^.. x^^ ^■ > ^c^. .-.s"' '^. 0-^ 0' ^ " '^^ "-f^ ./^ ''r .V' %< ■^o 0^ X^^ ^^\^• .-S %^> -y^ -y , O' % ^^■ ■J.- /,' u V. •^oo^ o v-^ ^.'c THE ISLAND OF MAUEITIUS SUB-TROPICAL RAMBLES IN THE LAND OF THE APHANAPTERYX. PEUSONAL EXPEMIENCES, ADVENTURES, AND WANDERINGS IN AND AROUND THE ISLAND OF MA URITIUS. By NICOLAS PIKE. NEW YORK: zl HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARK. 18 73. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by HARPER & BROTHERS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. C^is ^olxxmt IS MOST BE8FECTFULLY DEDICATED TO M. L. L. AS A MARK OF ESTEEM AND FRIENDSHIP AND FOR THE VALUABLE ASSISTANCE RENDERED ME WHILST WRITING ITS PAGES ; ALSO FOR THE KIND CARE AND ATTENTION BESTOWED UPON ME WHEN STRICKEN DOWN WITH FEVER ALONE IN A STRANGE LAND, AND WHICH NEARLY PREVENTED THEM BEING WRITTEN AT ALL PEEFACE. •The present volume of Sub-tropical Eambles is made up from notes taken on my voyage from America to Mauritius ; information gained in the latter wherever possible ; and my own experience during the years I have resided in it. The * Gem of the Ocean ' is, in reality, but Httle known to the world at large. Small as it is, only a dot in a vast ocean, it is, or at least might be made, one of the most fertile and productive of the English Colonies. Its mountain scenery is grand, and its singularly formed rugged peaks supply an endless fund for reflection. No- where is the ' stone-book of Nature ' more widely opened, so that ' he who runneth may read.' Its waterfalls, . its caverns, its wild forest lands, must ever be sources of pleasure to all who choose to seek for them. Its coasts afford the naturahst never-ending stores for collection and study, and all these go far to make up for the many things so totally deficient in Mauritius ; in fact, they make vi PREFACE. life bearable, wliicli would be without them a dull mono- tone. On my receiving my appointment as Consul to this Island, I sought in vain for information respecting it. With the exception of Baron Grant's work, written more than a hundred years ago ; notes by an old French officer quite as ancient, and a few scattered magazine articles, I could find nothing. I therefore determined to note everything I saw ; and gain information of all kinds relative to this interesting place, and the present volume is the result. To those gentlemen who have assisted me so courteously by the use of their books, or with personal information, I beg to return my most sincere thanks. In a second volume, nearly completed, I purpose treating more fully on the Fauna and Flora of Mauritius. I am aware much has been written on both, but am equally aware (often to my disappointment) that such writings have been mostly confined to articles sent to various literary institutions, that he entombed in their records, unavailable to the general reading public. I have tried to give a fair but brief account of every- thing without prejudice ; and if the reader, when he (or she) lays down my book, should say, he has gained new ideas, and a fair knowledge of the Island and its capa- bilities, or even had some hours' amusement, I shall feel my 'jottings by the way' have not been all labour in vain. I would say a word about the title of my book. PREFACE. vii Everybody has heard all about the Dodo, once existent in Mauritius, but many are not aware of the very beau- tiful bird the Aphanapteryx imperialism coexistent with it, a sketch of which is on the title-page, and whose ex- quisite red silky plumage might vie with the handsomest birds of the present era.-^ Nicolas Pike. U.S. Consul, Port Louis, Mauritius. Nov. 1872. * A full description of this bird will be giyen in a future volume. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. ; PAGE Leaving Home — Ball at Piney Point — In the Gulf Stream — St. Thomas — Santa Cruz — Guadaloupe — Mr. Chaplain's Death — Barbadoes — Pernam- buco — Olenda — Rio — Description of the City — Public Gardens — Emperor's Garden —A Night in the Forest — Excursion up the Corcovada — Snakes — Descent — Public Squares — Departure from Rio ... 1 CHAPTER II. EASTWARD BOUND. Bad Weather— Catching an Albatross— Accident to Captain — Brilliance of Southern Constellations — Serious Consequences of killing an Albatross — Whale Brit — Tristan d'Acunha— Its History — Chemical Barometer, and how to make it — Arrival in Simon's Bay — Description of Country — Cape Sheep — Hottentot Venus — The Pilot — Baboons— A Night in the Moun- tains — Ascent of Table Mountain — Principal Features of Cape Town — Harbour Lights — A Cape Waggon — Churches — Masonry — The Govern- ment — A Dutch Boer — Road from Cape Town to Simon's Bay — Adieu to the Cape — A Hurricane — Hints on Cyclones — Mauritius at last . . 28 CHAPTER III. ARRIVAL IN MAURITIUS. First Impressions of Port Louis from the Sea — Landing — A Night in the best Hotel — The Harbour — Architecture of Houses— Chaussee — Principal Streets — Place d'Armes — Government House — Government Street — Theatre — Champ de Mars — Labourdonnais Street — Mineral Spring — Water — New Town — Plaine Verte — Company's Gardens — Bazaar — Moka Street — Railway Depot — Barracks — College — Churclies — Mosque — Barbers — Masonic Lodgf s ......... X CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. PAMPLEMOUSSES GARDENS. PAGE M. Poivre — Description of Gardens — Centre Avenue — Obelisk — Lakes — Sago Walk — Avenue of Fine Trees — Effects of Hurricane — Nursery — Boabab — Grassy Slope— Mr. Home's Cottage— Curious Trees near it — Dr. Meller's House — Fernery — Bernadin St.-Pierre — Loss of the St. Geran— Captain's Death — And that of the Two Lovers — Tombs of Paul and Virginia . . 72 CHAPTER V. THE RACES. The Beginning of Racing in Mauritius — Unprofitableness of Races — Horses very inferior — Rules and Regulations up to Newmarket Mark — No Infor- mation to be got — Preparations for Races — Race Monday — General Excite- ment — The Race — Jockeys — The Loges — Saturday— Scenes in Bazaar — Costumes — Nautch Girls — Toilettes — Painful Case of Take-in — Return Home 83 CHAPTER VI. THE EPIDEMIC OF MAURITIUS. 'On Fevers generally — Malarious Fever in 1866 — Distress in the Districts — Symptoms of the Fever — Complications — Effects of Quinine — Remedies — The Fever, Malarious — Causes of Fever — Spores — Ague Plants — Causes of Malarious Fever at Port Louis — At Grand River — The Lowlands — Destruction of Trees — Sad Scenes — Funerals — The Western Cemetery — Fete des Morts — Cemetery of Bois Marchand 90 CHAPTER VII. THE CYCLONE OF 1868. The Direction of the Winds, &c., from Feb. 27 to March 5 — Premonitory Symptoms — Changes from 5th to 11th— Direction of Cyclone— Its Track on the Ocean — Damages in Port Louis — Destruction of Churches, Ware- houses, &c. — Effects in the Harbour — Irving Lodge — Scenes in the Streets — Grand River Bridge— Midland and Southern Districts — Reduit — Pamplemousses — Effects on the Sea-shore — Table of Losses. Deaths, &c. 11 1 CHAPTER VIII. A TRIP TO THE ARSENAL. Our Road — Arrival at Balaclava — Description of House and Grounds — Flour Mill — Distillery— Patent Fuel — School for Indian Children — Lime Kilns — Geology of the Coast 123 CONTENTS. xi CHAPTER IX. THE GEOLOGY OF MAURITIUS. PAGE Extinct Craters — Cessation of Volcanic Action — Upheaval — Deposits at Timor and other Islands — Force of Volcanic Agency — Mountain Peaks — Flacq — Craters — Dr. Ayres on Flat Island — Original Formation of Mauritius — Submersion — Fossil Casts . . . . . . .129 CHAPTER X. THE MOHARRUM OR TAMSEH. Its Origin — Whence the name Yamseh — The Find in the Latanier River — The Disposal of their ' Bon Dieu ' — Procession for Alms — Gouhns — How built — The Little Procession — Orgies at Plaine Verte — Colours worn by Indians — Grand Procession — The Lion — Breaking the Gouhns — Return Home — Ignorance of the Actors in Yamseh ...... 136 CHAPTER XI. A VISIT TO ROUND ISLAND. Departure from Port Louis— The Voyage — Arrival and Difficulty of Landing — Size and Formation of the Island — The Flora — Dinner — Preparations for sleeping — Fishing— Geological Description of the Island . . . 141 CHAPTER XII. MT SECOND VISIT TO ROUND ISLAND. Invitation — The Voyage — Arrival — Object of Visit — My Share of the Work — Dinner — Departure of the 'Victoria' — Our Preparations for the Night, and the Storm's — ' In Thunder, Lightning, and in Rain ' — Our Exodus from the Cave — Night and Morning — Preparations for Breakfast — Entomology under Difficulties— Sail ho ! — Homeward boimd — In Port Louis at last — Fauna of Round Island — Extracts from Sir H. Barkly's Report — Quotations from Letter . . . . . . . . . . . .153 CHAPTER XIII. A CHINESE FESTIVAL. Preparations — Joss — Description of Temple — Ceremonies — Gambling — Opera — Pantomime 170 A >ii , CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. AN EXCURSION UP THE POUCE MOUNTAIN. PAGK Early Morning — Begin our Ascent — Cardinal's Nest — Old Forts — Tunnel under the Pouce — The Shoulder — The Summit — Ferns — View — Ento- mology of the Mountain— Descent — Echo — Notes on different Ascents of the Peter Both Mountain 178 CHAPTER XV. REDUIT. Irs Vicissitudes — Reason of its first Establishment — Alleged Establishment — Its Interior and Exterior — No Change under M. de Brillane — Anecdote of Bartolomeo — DijBFerence of its Treatment under Sir R. Farquhar and his Successors — Mauritius threatened with Monsters — Destruction of tbe Cause of the Threat — Sir W. Gromm's Rule — Reduit in the Hands of Sir Henry Barkly and his Lady — Description of Scenery — Greological Features — Ghosts — My nas -Ferns and Fernery ^Ravages of Cyclone of 1868 . 187 CHAPTER XVI. THE MAERIAGE CEREMONY OF THE MADRAS MALABAR INDIANS. Permission to visit a Wedding-feast — Preliminary Ceremonies — Initiation of Bridegroom — Initiation of Bride — Intermediate Ablutions and Change of Dress — Description of the Bride's second Appearance — The actual Marriage — Presents to the Groom, and his Share of the Proceedings — Only Food allowed the Wedded Pair — Sprees on the Third Day — Consummation. 194 CHAPTER XVII. FLAT ISLAND. Our Skipper — View inland — Turtle Bay — Old French Fort — Grand Baie — Whales — Cannonier's Point — Land near Grand Baie — Fishing — Gunner's Quoin — The Pass — Our Welcome — Quarantine Station — Water Supply — Wells — Plants and Trees — Our Quarters — Landing-bridge — Columba Rock— On the Reefs — Corals — Polyps — Zoophytes — Algse — Palisade Bay — Lighthouse — Cemetery — The Mountain — Geological Fea- tures — Caves — Gabriel Island — The Quoin — Detached Rocks on Mountain — Volcanoes supposed to have been in this Vicinity — Return . . . 200 CHAPTER XVm. LA CHASSE. The Hunting Season in Mauritius — Game preserved — An Invite — On the Way to the Meet — Our Posts — TheQuartiersMilitaires— Howl obeyed Orders — Our Game — Ferns -Our Comrades' Luck — Our Count — A Wild Boar — Re- turn from the Chasse — Distribution of Game — Description of Cochon Marron 211 CONTENTS, xiii CHAPTER XIX. A HINDOO FESTIVAL. PAGE Deities principally worshipped at this Fete — Temple at Roche Bois — Dress of both Sexes — The Old Man and his Jugglery — Burning and Flogg ng — Priests and Dancing Girls — Indian Musical Ideas — WalkingthroughFire — Sham Human Sacrifice — January Fete — Crowds in Attendance — Gouhns — The Priest's Blessing — Refreshments — Jewellers plying their Trade — Idols — Torture as a Means to fulfil a Vow, or secure future Benefits — Rolling round the Temple — Breaking Cocoa-nuts — The Tank — Ordeal by Diving — Sinnatambou — Precepts of the Shastras in Reference to these degrading Rites 22J CHAPTER XX. ACROSS COUNTRY TO THE DYA-MAMOU AND OTHER FALLS. Advice to Stay-at-homes — Invitation — Leaving the City — Into the Woods to Fresanges — Ravenalas — Dhoodie — Nisiht and Morning — Rain no Eifect on our Spirits — Contrast of Colour in Woods — Our Guide and Woodsmen — Ferns-^Banks of the Riviere du Poste — Grand River, SE. — The Dya- Mamou — The Caves —Cascade of Roche Platte — Back into the Woods — A Path for us, Death to the Shrubs and Creepers — Carias — Wasps' Nests — Swallows' Cave — A Skull — Story of Slave Woman — The Return — Incredulity of Friends .......... 235 CHAPTER XXI. ON THE SEA, IN AND NEAR PORT LOUIS HARBOUR, WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME OF THE WONDERS THEREIN. Start from Home — Embarking at the Trou Fanfaron — Docks, &c. — Landing Bullocks — Scarcity of Shipping — Timber-ship unloading — Abundance of Fish — Clearness of Water — Finding Caulerpa and Haliophila — De- scription of Hydrometridse — Errantia — Coasts of Mauritius — Reefs and Fringing Corals — Their Polyps — Boat touching the Reefs — Sharks and other Monsters — Echinas— Fishing up Corals — Their Inhabitants — Fungi Agariciformis — Preparing Corals for Sale — The Beauty of the Depths — Origin of Barkly — Barkly Island — Its Shells and Algae— Aquariums — Crabs under the Rocks — Surface Corals of Species I have not hitherto found — Champagne Bottles ; the vinous Fumes equally mischievous to Man and Reptiles — Actinias — Pugnacious Eels — Breakfast — Tea versus Beer or — Brandy — Dragging the Tide-pools — Flying Laffs — Gymnobranchiata — Soldier and Hermit Crabs — Leaving the Island — Examining the Contents of Fishermen's Bags — Ourites — Lobsters — Butterflies out at Sea — Holo- thuroidse — Overboard to dig up Pinnae — Dolabella Rumphii Shells — Tropic Birds— The Mud Laffs — Terrible Wounds inflicted by them — Sunset Visions — Return to the Trou Fanfaron 246 xiv CONTENTS. . CHAPTER XXII. A TOUR EOUND THE ISLAND. PA BE My Comrades and Preparations — Grand River^Kcenig's Tower — Race- jockeys — Denmark Hill — Point aux Caves — Caverns — Probable Origin of the Petite Riviere Caverns — Strange Sights — A Night on the Rocks — Pishing a la Patatrand — Plaines of St. Pierre — Grand Prospect from our Dining-room — Fight with a Tazarre — Rempart River — The Trois Mamelles — Catching Prawns — Tamarind River and Bay — Catching Olives — Raspberries— Rats and Tenrecs Sharers in our Bedroom — Up the Bed of the River — Our Night's Lodging — Point Flinders— Account of Captain Flinders — The Tamarind Falls — Geneve Estate — Black River — The Morne — Flying Foxes — Bale du Cap — A Python Creeper — The Chamarel Falls — The Bel Ombre Estate — Jacotet Bay — Its Historic Interest-^EfFect of the Winds on the neighbouring District —River des Galets — Actinias —A Marine Garden — Night-fishing — Falls of the River des Galets — Bay of Souillac — The Savane — The Bois Sec — Tree Ferns — Grand Bassin — Savane Falls — River du Poste — The Coast near the Souffleur — Pont Naturel — Bras de Mer de Chaland — Point d'Esny — Grand Port — Isle Passe — Mahebourg — The Cemetery ..... 282 CHAPTER XXIII. VISIT TO THE ISLE DE PASSE, AND CONTINUATION OF TOUR. Preparation for Visit — River Creoles — Crater in Mahebourg Bay — Isle de Passe — The Return — Aground — En route again — Point au Diable — Mountain Ranges — Camisard — Its Geology — Ferns, &c. — Grand River SE. — The Falls — The Beauchamp Estate — Statue to the Virgin — Trou d'Eau douce — Point Hollandais — Annelides — Holothuriae, &c. — Flacq — General Description — St. Antoine— Amber Island — Caverns — Islets in Mapou Bhv — Polyp — Sunset^ — Arrival of English Fleet in Mapou Bay — Holicanthu.-i semicirculatus — Battle with a Cave Eel — Situation of Pamplemousses - - The Garde Qs and Churches — On the Road to Port Louis — Cemetery ol Bois Marchand — Peter Both — St. Croix — Olden Boundaries of Port Louif and Defences — The City and its Cries ..... . 327 CHAPTER XXIV. THE HISTORY OF MAURITIUS. From its Discovery by the Portuguese, in 1505, through the various Changes of Govprnment it has undergone during its Possession by the Dutch, then by the French, and lastly, by the English, to February 1871 . . 351 CONTENTS. XV. CHAPTER XXV. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE GEOGRAPHY OF MAURITIUS, ITS DEPEN- DENCIES, CIVIL AND MILITARY STATISTICS, VARIOUS INDUSTRIES, COMMERCE, ETC. rAGK The Geography of Mauritius — Its Physical Aspect and Climate — Its Depen- dencies—Account of Seychelles — Internal Communication — Post Office and Foreign Telegraph Scheme — Hackney Coaches, «fec. — Defences, Military, Police and Naval — Money, Weights and Measures — Banks — Credit Foncier, &c. — The various Industries of Mauritius — Foreign Commerce- Decadence of Commercial Affairs generally . . . . . .412 CHAPTER XXVI. THE GOVERNMENT OF MAURITIUS AND ITS VARIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS, WITH THE DIFFERENT RELIGIONS IN THE COLONY. The Chief Officers of the Government — The various Departments — Savings' Bank — Episcopal Church of Port Louis — Other Protestant Churches in the Colony — Roman Catholic Sacred Edifices — Convents — Mohammedan Mosque — Its Worship — Fast and Feast — Catholic Fete-Dieu — Procession — Raising the Host, &c. . . . . . . . . . .441 CHAPTER XXVII. THE ROYAL COLLEGE, PRIVATE AND GOVERNMENT SCHOOLS, AND THE MUSEUM. Schools when the Island was under French Rule — M. Boyer — Assistance given to him— Rules and Course of Instruction in the Colonial College — Its Use as a Hospital — Its Rehabilitation, and new Title — Pupils sent to the Royal College from Abroad — Hurricane in 1824 — Repairing Damages — A Pupil sent yearly to England — Disciplinary Reform by Mr. Redle — Causes of Failure — A more practical Education required— A new Rector and ne:w Hopes — Schools suffering from the Fever in 1867— English taught, but small Results — Effect and Show too much sought for in Education — Music — Boys' Schools — Government Schools — Unwillingness of Coolies to be taught — Sums collected notwithstanding Fever — Curious ISotes on the Effect of Fever on various Studies— Oriental and Creole Characters — Course of Studies — Number of Schools, Teachers, &c. — -Visit to the ' Asile '- — State of the Place when first occupied — Its present Aspect — Varied Races — Products of Grounds — Rules and Regulations — Dinner — Drill — Bed-time- -First Natural History Society — Its Aims — Its Prospects under Governors Farquhar and Hall — The Society of 1829 — Baron Cuvier — Foreign Correspondents and Members — Allowance for a Curator — MM. Desjardins and d'Epinay — The Society's Name in 1847 — Exhibitions — The one in 1860— Early Morning Scenes at an Exhibition — Ordinary Articles exhibited — The Visitors — Collections in the Museum — Paintings ■ — M. Louis Bouton 450 xvi CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVIII. IMMIGRATION. PAGE A new Era for English Colonies — When and How the Abolition Act was brought in Force — Number of Slaves — Introduction of Coolies — Bad Management — Valuation of Slaves — Ex-Apprentices — Immigration renewed — Cholera — Agricultural Progress — Changed Condition of Malabars after residing here — Tickets and Photographs — Camps — Fever — Death-Rate — Report of Mr. Beyts — Cost of Establishment and other Statistics — Arrears of "Wages — Immigration Tables — Facts respectingvarious Castes of Indians 469 CHAPTER XXIX. SUGAR AND THE SUGAR-CANE. Its History — Mode of Culture — Parasites that attack it — Its Manufacture — AmouTit exported and Monetary Value — Dr. Icery's Process . . . 490 APPENDIX. Letter of Surwurrah 511 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. Louis The Author and his Collection View of St. Thomas .... ^Sugar-Loaf Hill .... Table Mountain .... Tristan d'Acunha .... Port Louis ...... Statue of Labourdonnais, Place d'Armes Theatre, Port Louis Cathedral, Port Louis Tropical Lake Scene . The Eaces at the Champ de Mars, Port Pond Scene ..... The Moharrum ok Yamseh A Fern A Butterfly ..... Tropical Scene ..... Lighthouse Rock, Flat Island . The Gunners Quoin .... Deer in the Jungle . Butterfly ..... Polyp Eggs. Different Developments of the Polyps Submarine View .... Mud Laff ...... page Frontispiece To face 4 . 27 . 29 . 33 To face 57 . 59 . 61 . 70 . 76 To face 83 . 127 To face 136 . 151 . 186 . 192 . 206 . 207 To face 214 . 217 . 254 . 272 . 278 xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PAGE The Ocean ............. 280 Les Trois Mamelles To face 294 The -Tamarind Mountains » 302 The Morne 304 The Chamarel Falls To face 309 Baie du Cap .......... ,,310 The Bay of Souillac ........ ,, 317 GrRANB BaSSIN . ,,319 Cascade of the River Savane ...... „ 320 The Souffleur „ 321 Le Pont Naturel „ 322 Point au Diable 326 Mahebourg Barracks 329 Camping 337 New Mapotj Bay 344 Protestant Church ........... 347 Sketch of Island 350 PisTACHE Nut 462 Creole sitting ............ 474 Indian Woman 475 Indian Man and Woman 476 Indian Woman and Child 486 Larva and Pupa. Diseased Sugar-Cane 501 Cane-Plant 503 The Authi;r"s Dog ' Quilp' 509 ana grass grows m tne once busy streets. This city contained more rabid secessionists at the commencement of the Rebellion B Pago 528. Sefpen/s \55\ SUB-TEOPICAL RAMBLES. CHAPTER I. Leaving Home — Ball at Piney Point — In the Gulf Stream — St. Thomas — Santa Cruz — Guadaloupe — Mr. Chaplain's Death — Barbadoes — Pernambuco — Oleuda — Eio — Description of the City — ^Public Gardens — Emperor's Garden — A Night in the Porest — Excursion up the Corcorada — Snakes — Descent — Public Squares — Departure from Rio. On being appointed Consul for the Island of Mauritius, a passage, through the politeness of the Secretary of the Navy, was offered me in the United States steamer 'Monocacy,' of 1,030 tons, carrying ten guns, and commanded by Captain S. P. Carter, formerly Major-General Carter of the army. This ship was built for river service, but not being completed before the termination of the war, she was detailed for foreign service. As we put in at many places on my way to my distant appointment, I shall take a few notes at random from my journal, which may interest those whose tastes lead them to foreign travel, while their occupations prevent them visiting- places so very foreign. On August 18, 1866, we weighed anchor from the navy yard at Washington, and steamed down the Potomac, the day bright and calm as could be wished. We passed many fortifications on the Maryland side, now happily dismantled of their guns, and then slowly steamed by Alexandria. Before the war this was a thriving place of business. Now most of the stores are closed, and grass grows in the once busy streets. This city contained more rabid secessionists at the commencement of the Kebellion B liTepaned /or 37cek -Siib -Tropical Rumbles, -£i^vmez.I.tiw.&d.J.imiS^ Hihitsfied by Sampsorv Lav,; Mar^ton., low. & Searle; (rawro Buildings, 18S M£e(- Str^ ioruhn,. 2 A NEGRO BALL, [Ch. I. than any other. It was here the rebels planted on the Marshal House their bars and stars, which, to the annoyance of ail true and loyal men, could be plainly seen at Washington. In the evening we anchored off Piney Point, Virginia, and I went on shore with Captain Carter. There was a ball at the hotel we visited, and we were politely invited to join in the dance, but declined the honour, and took our seats as spectators. The band consisted of six darkies, playing a violin, cornet-a- piston, flute, banjo, bones, and triangle. An old grey-headed man called out the figures with most amusing gesticulations, and contortions of face and body, as he gave out at the top of his voice : ' Gremmen to de right, misses to de lef; go in dar boys, the Avar am over, we all broders once more ! ' and then, casting a look at me, ' Massa's from de North, good times am coming.' The ladies were dressed in fashionable style, very decolleUes, and the fun went on ' fast and furious.' Soon tired of this, we went into the bar-room, where two darkies were busily mixing- brandy smashes and mint juleps for the waiting crowds. There were a good many boarders in the house, as the neighbourhood supplied excellent sport for the angler, and is noted for oysters. Most of the gentlemen were Southerners ; but when they saw that we were United States Grovernment officers, they treated us with great politeness, conversed freely on the late war, ad- mitted that a great mistake had been made, and wished by- gones to be by-gones. In the morning we left Piney Point, steamed through Chesapeake Bay, passed Fortress Monroe, and the Eip Eaps, Norfolk, and Portsmouth, and entered Grosport navy yard. Here we coaled, took in eighty more men, the balance of our crew, and then went into the dry dock for some alterations. The ' Monocacy ' was a new, untried vessel ; and from her conduct hitherto she had inspired the crew with great distrust of her sailing capacities and seaworthiness, but I confess I did not share their fears. On the 28th we got in our shot and shell, and on the 29th were towed out to the Hampton Eoads, and made fast to the Grovernment buoys, whilst the deviation of the compass was ascertained. Cii. I.] THE GULF STREAM. 3 I amused myself with capturing some of the pretty medusae sailing round about the sliip. Some of them I had never seen, particularly one of a chestnut colour, the body about three inches in diameter, with tentaculoe more than a yard long, and others of a pale blue, radiating all the hues of the solar spectrum. I caught up some sea-weeds too, prominent among which were the Cera'inium rubrum, Fucus nodosus and vesiculosus, Ulva linza, Entoromorpha intestinalis, and several species of GaltithamniuTn, all common to our coast. On August 30 the pilot took us out, and after passing Fort Henry we bade adieu to the United States, and were soon under way for the broad Atlantic. It was with saddened feelings I looked my last on the shores of my native land, and thought, ' It may be for years, or it may be for ever,' I was saying adieu to home and friends. Once out at sea, order began to reign in the ship ; the men were mustered, and articles of war read, sails unfurled, and the monotony of ship life began. By September 3 we were running down the Grulf Stream, with splendid weather. This remarkable stream has its fountain-head in the Grulf of Mexico, and its mouth in the Arctic Sea, and has a current more rapid than the Mississippi or Amazon. The velocity of this current, however, varies greatly. Accord- ing to Dana, ' Off Florida it is from three to five miles per hour, and in the Polar current has a rate of less than one mile. It is of great depth.' Dr. Franklin was of opinion that the G-ulf Stream was formed by the escaping waters, forced into the Carribean Sea by the trade winds, and that the pressure of these winds upon the waters of this ocean forced up a head sea. It is stated that the chemical properties, or (if the expression be admissible) the galvanic properties, of the Gulf Stream waters, as they come from their fountains are different, or rather more intense than they are in sea-water generally. In 1843 the Secretary of the Navy took measures for procuring a series of experiments and observations with regard to the corrosive effects of sea-water upon the copper sheathing of ships. With patience, care, and labour, these researches were carried on for ten years, and the fact has been established 4 THE ISLAND OF ST. THOMAS. [Ch. I. that the copper on the bottom of ships cruising in the Carri- bean Sea and Grulf of Mexico suffers more than in any other part of the ocean. That is, the salts in these waters create the most powerful galvanic battery that is found in the ocean. Professor Harvey states that the vegetation has a strong resemblance to that of the Mediterranean. ' Sea-weeds are borne on the Grulf Stream in such quantities, and thrown off the inner side of the current into the great area of still water in the centre of the Atlantic, that a part of it takes the name of the Sea of Sargassa, from the name of a common weed of the order Fucacece.^ On the evening of the 7th a heavy squall struck the vessel. Fortunately we were prepared for it, and had everything secured. It lasted all night ; the rain fell in torrents, the thunder rolled deeply, and the vivid flashes of the lightning were blinding. The gale reached its height at ten o'clock a.m. on the 8th, after which it gradually subsided, and land was sighted from the mast-head. It proved to be St. Thomas, one of the islands of the West Indian group. Towards evening we were close in, but had great difficulty in getting a pilot, and it was ten o'clock at night be- fore we were safely anchored. The town of St. Thomas, which is the capital, is prettily situated at the base of a lofty ridge of mountains, which extends the whole length of the island, some of whose highest peaks rise to the altitude of 1,700 feet. The island is about twelve miles long by three or four broad. It belongs to Denmark, is a free port, and has a larger commerce than any other West Indian island. It is the general rendez- vous of our men-of-war, which have a special anchorage ; there is also a government coal depot there. It has a dry dock, but no iron-foundries, so that no metal work for shipping can be repaired. On Sunday I attended the Episcopalian Church, where the minister gave a very impressive sermon from the second verse of the third chapter of St. James' Epistle. The principal thoroughfare of St. Thomas is King Street, containing English, French, and American stores for merchandise. I found everything at least thirty per cent, cheaper than in the United States. Ch. I.] BLUE BEARD CASTLE. 5 The bay of St. Thomas is a fine one, open to the south, and can be entered at any time with the prevailing trade winds, and is perfectly safe except in hurricane months. Near the landing- is a water-battery, and behind it an old Dutch fortification which commands the harbour, called Christian's Fort. It is very ancient. Three or four hundred soldiers are stationed there, and it is a residence of the Grovernor. From a high hill at the back of the town, called P>ench Hill, which I climbed, I had a fine view of the whole place. The ex-President and Greneral-in-chief of Mexico, Santa Anna, has taken up his quarters in a fine house on this hill. On the spur of a mountain called Kiari is a remarkable stone tower named Blue Beard Castle, an antique- looking pile. It is 240 feet above the level of the sea, and, with the house adjoin- ing, was purchased some years ago. It was in a sad state of dilapidation ; but the owner, thinking it would make a good look-out or summer-house, put it in repair. On excavating the earth, he found the tower had once been fortified, and eight or ten guns were dug out of the ruins. He had them cleaned, and mounted on earthworks round the tower. It is supposed that it was built by the pirates and freebooters of the last century, as a stronghold in case of attack. It is well known that within the recollection of this generation they had places of refuge in the mountains. Fruits and vegetables are exposed for sale under the trees in the square in King Street, and considering they are nearly all raised in Santa Cruz, at a distance of thirty-eight miles, all were very moderate in price. I should say that, as fish abound on this coast, this was a capital place for a student of ichthyology. I added to my collection some beautiful sea-weeds, from the tide-pools, to which the well-known lines of the poet beginning with ' full many a gem ' apply admirably. Large piles of king- fish, from five to twenty pounds weight, are constantly for sale as well as the angel-fish {Helicanthus ciliaris), and quantities of snappers and grunts. There were the peculiarly-formed cow- fish (Ostracion sex cornutus), the peacock-fish {Gheitodon vulgaris), zebra-fish (Eavaretas), and the hog-fish — which in spite of its name is one of the most graceful of fish in the water. 6 SANTA CRUZ. [Ch. I. and capital for eating too — and, in short, a variety too numerous to mention. We left St. Thomas, on December 14, for Santa Cruz, and let go our anchor in the harbour of Frederickstadt in the evening. The singular clearness of the water here is very remarkable. We lay in a depth of thirty feet, yet we could distinctly see the corals and gorgonas at the bottom. Sharks abound ; and a story was told us of an incident that occurred a few days before our arrival, of a Danish seaman, who was missing for two days ; and a fisherman capturing one of these monsters, found portions of a human body in it, still undigested, and part of a shirt with the man's name on it. It was supposed he had fallen overboard, and been instantly devoured. I called on the consul, Mr. Moore, and afterwards strolled about the place, which has a Spanish look, and reminded me of Vigo, in Spain. Santa Cruz is called the garden of the West Indies. Most of the houses are of one storey, with prettily laid out grounds round them, and when viewed at a distance the island has the appearance of a highly- cultivated garden. It contains about 1 2,000 inhabitants ; exports sugar, mo- lasses, rum and cotton, and supplies steamers with firewood. It is unfortunately subject to frequent droughts (possibly caused by the cutting down of the forests), and is said to be very unhealthy for strangers. I noticed in the churchyard that a large percentage of the deaths were caused by yellow fever, as incribed on the tombstones. On the 1 7th we left Santa Cruz, and on the 1 8th were close to Basseterre, on the south-west of the island of Guadaloupe, and reached Point Petre that night. The upper part of the town is clean and well paved, and appears to have very comfortable buildings. All the lower parts reek in squalor and filth, and I do not wonder at the cholera having made such frightful ravages there. In 1865 it carried off 25,000 victims. The heat was most oppressive at this time ; and the volcano, the Souffriere, was emitting flames and thick volumes of smoke. The fish- market is a curious establishment. The vendors are negro women, who sit behind a grating of large iron bars Ch. I.] AN EARTHQUAKE, 7 under a tin roof. Crowds of whites and negroes are elbowing each other, and making a Babel of noise to get at the bars. A particular fish is pointed out by the purchaser, when it is weighed and priced, but never passed through till paid for. Exorbitant prices were the rule. I chose a Grauper of about two pounds weight, and they asked me two dollars and a half for it. The Governor and Commander-in-chief of the military forces visited us on board, themselves and suite in full uniform ; the former was certainly one of the handsomest men I ever saw. A terrible earthquake occurred here in 1843. After the disaster that spread ruin on all sides, fire, the constant ally of earthquakes, broke out and completed the work of destruction. A shocking incident was related to me. A young girl rushed out of her father's house to save herself, when some timbers from a ruined building fell on her, and held her firmly to the spot by the lower extremities. She called loudly for help ; and on a soldier trying to rescue her, and finding his efforts vain, she begged of him to cut off her legs so as to save her from the fire, which was advancing with giant strides. He drew his sword to comply, but his heart failed him and he fled, and in a few minutes the poor girl was consumed ; 4,000 bodies were dug out of the ruins. Famine followed, and the survivors were reduced to eat the canes in the fields for sustenance. I was informed that one part of the harbour of Point Petre, which before this event was capable of admitting ships of the heaviest burden, became completely choked up with rocks, forced up from the bottom of the sea. I intended visiting the crater, which is about fifteen miles distant from the harbour, but the weather was too sultry to venture on so much exertion ; so went on shore in the evening to take a quiet walk with Mr. Chaplain, the chief officer of the ' Monocacy ; ' but he was suddenly taken so ill that we were obliged to return. On the 22nd we steamed out of Point Petre bay, and ran along the coast, which looked beautiful with its fields of waving canes ; and we found the change of temperature most delightful as we got out into the broad ocean, after being nearly roasted at Guadaloupe. It was decided to run down to Pernambuco, a distance of 8 FUNERAL AT SEA. [Ch. I. 2,500 miles ; but the next day Mr. Chaplain was worse. The doctor asked me to visit him, and when we entered his room he was taken with a severe fit. He then became speechless, and though every care was bestowed that medical aid could give, he soon breathed his last. His body was taken on deck, and a place was prepared for it abaft the starboard wheel. It was placed on a platform shrouded with the American flag, and his sword laid by his side. Our colours were hoisted half-mast, and the ship's course changed to Barbadoes, where we soon arrived, and anchored at Bridgetown, the capital. The news of the death spread like wildfire over the ship ; the men spoke of it in hurried whispers. They could hardly believe that he who had so lately issued his orders in a stentorian voice from the deck should now be lying on it, silent for ever ; that the man who had so gallantly defended his country against rebellion should be now powerless, conquered by a mightier hand. Officers and men were deeply affected ; not a smile was on the lips of any of that rough crew. Many had been Mr. Chaplain's comrades in arms during the late war, and had witnessed his daring acts of bravery, and I can truly say he was most sincerely regretted. As soon as we arrived at Bridgetown, preparations were made for the funeral. A plain coffin, covered with blue cloth, received the remains, dressed in full uniform. A boat from H.B.M. frigate ' Buzzard,' with officers and men, came alongside to pay respect to the dead. After a short funeral service the coffin was lowered into the ship's launch, attended by the deceased's coxswain and boat's crew. It was towed by the cutter, rowed with muffled oars, the ensign trailing in the water, and followed by all our boats and those of the ' Buzzard.' Not a word was spoken, the rattling of the muskets of the marines, as they landed, alone breaking the silence. The coffin was placed on a richly-plumed hearse, and the marines flanked it, trailing their muskets. Mr. Chaplain's sword and epaulettes, on a cushion, were borne after it by his coxswain. TheGrovernor in his carriage, the Commander of the ' Buzzard,' and all the officers of both ships, with the principal Americans and English of the place, followed. The cortege passed slowly through the town to St. Leonard's, where the impressive service of the Episcopal church was read, and a short address was given Ch. I.] BARBADOES. 9 on the uncertainty of human life, especially to a soldier or sailor, and the necessity of ever being prepared to meet death. On arriving at the cemetery, the coffin was placed in a leaden one, and as it was lowered to its last resting-place, the marines fired a salute, which the frigate answered with minute-guns. When the minister read the solemn words, ' Dust to dust,' each one threw a spray of green leaves into the grave, as he bid adieu to the friend to be left behind buried in a strange land, far from his home and kindred. Barbadoes is an important part of the British West Indian possessions. The island is twenty miles long and twelve broad, and contains about 136,000 inhabitants. Like most other sugar-planting countries, the greater part of the timber has been cut down to make way for the canes. There is little high land, but it gradually declines from the centre to the coast. The highest point is Mount Willoughby, and that is only 1,000 feet above sea level. There is little indication of volcanic action. In the southern parts of the island the land rises in terraces, one above the other. The plains are highly cultivated, but the northern side has a very broken surface, and is much less fertile. Considerable quantities of petroleum, which is used instead of pitch, and serves for lamp oil, are found here. There is also a burning spring similar to the Eetsamola, in the Apennines. The climate of Barbadoes is in general healthy, is less humid in consequence of the light calcareous soil rapidly absorbing the rain, and enjoys a greater immunity from epidemic diseases than the other West Indian islands. Tornadoes and hurricanes which cause great damage to the shipping, are frequent during the months of August, September, and October. Bridge- town, the capital, is about two miles in extent. It contains good roads and some fine buildings, and in the principal square is a statue of Lord Nelson. On the 25th we weighed anchor, and again proceeded on our way to Pernambuco. Little occurred on our voyage, except a court martial on two men for getting drunk ; a sham fight ; a temporary alarm of fire, happily quickly allayed ; and an excitement from an iron pin in the rudder getting loose ; all of which, though but little to relate, caused breaks in our monotonous life at sea. When still far from our port of destination it was found that lo CAPE ST. ROQUE. [Ch. I. we had only five days' coal, and there was a question of our putting back to Ceara ; as we were not only dependent on coal for steaming, but for the condenser, which supplied the whole crew with water for drinking. We fell in with the Brazilian packet ' Percemuga,' just from Pernambuco, with a pilot on board, whom the captain asked if we would take. We sent a boat for him, and were glad of his services, particularly as he spoke English well. As we approached Cape St. Roque, the waves were dashing furiously over an almost perpendicular rock, apparently of red clay formation. The shore in the distance looked like glittering heaps of white sand. We were close enough to see the houses, and fine groves of cocoa-nut trees. Close to the cape I observed a church, which the pilot told me was that of ' Nossa Senhora dos Navigates.' In most Portuguese seaports, chapels, or niches enclosing an image of the Virgin, are built on the shore, where those about to embark pray for a prosperous voyage, while the friends and relatives offer up prayers for their safe return. Numbers of natives on janguardas were fishing on the coral reefs ; some of these are large and carry a sail ; others so small that only one man can sit on them. As the fellows paddle along some distance from the shore, it seemed as if half their bodies were submerged, and it was only as the frail crafts rose on the waves that it could be seen they were not floating on the water. These janguardas are formed of four or more logs of wood bound together, having a mast and large awkward- looking sail. They have no sides, so that every wave can break over them, yet the fishermen go a long distance from land on them. All along the coast are fish pounds, similar to those I had seen in Algarve (Portugal). They are circular enclosures, which admit the fish at high water. As the tide recedes, the fish swim into the deeper water in the centre. The fishermen at low water go on their janguardas, and take their prey in a dip-net and carry them alive to the markets, in boxes made for the purpose, which they tow astern of their frail vessels. Here we began to notice the splendour of the Southern con- stellations. Venus, from her great brilliancy in these latitudes, especially attracted our attention. Ch. I.] COCOA-NUT ISLAND, ii On October 8 we arrived off the port of Pernambuco ; but the pilot we had taken out at sea was not allowed to bring the ship into harbour, as there was a government officer for that express purpose ; so we had to remain outside, pitching and rolling about in a heavy swell. Early in the morning the pilot brought us in, and we dropped anchor under the reefs. The port contains a sort of natural breakwater, running in a straight line, for nearly three-quarters of a mile, directly in front of the city. This appears to be of tertiary formation, and lies just above the surface of the water. The Portuguese have built a strong brick wall on this reef, to protect it from the violence of the waves. A large hulk neatly painted is moored in the harbour, and serves as a school-ship for the Brazilian navy. The reefs of Pernambuco run parallel to the shore, at about 800 yards dis- tance, for many miles. A small octagonal tower called the Tour de Picas, erected on the shore, mounts several guns. On the opposite shore is an old fort called Castel de Bruno, built in 1640, and with the Tour de Picas protects the harbour, as the channel is very narrow here. Vessels drawing more than 16 or 17 feet of water are obliged to anchor outside, but to those that can enter Per- nambuco offers a safe and excellent harbour. At its entrance, on the eastern side of the reef, is a fine lighthouse, which ex- hibits three distinct lights from sunset to sunrise. There are two white and one red, and these make a complete revolution every ten minutes, and are visible from twelve to fifteen miles at sea. To the south of Pernambuco lies Cocoa-nut Island, that has acquired a sort of notoriety from two hundred and fifty American seamen having for some time resided there. Maffit the pirate, after destroying and plundering several unarmed American vessels, finding their crews getting troublesome on his hands, compelled a French trader to take them into Pernambuco, and hand them over to our consul, Mr. Adamson, who took charge of them and placed them on this island until arrange- ments could be made to send them home. This is one of the most important provinces in the Brazils, second only to Eio and Bahia, and with proper care would yield immensely ; but from th© careless way in which everything is 12 PERNAMBUCO. [Ch. I. done, and its agriculture in as backward a state, scarcely enough is raised for the consumption of the people. It contains 1,180,000 inhabitants, 250,000 of whom are slaves employed on the sugar and coffee plantations. In the western part the country people grow a coarse kind of sugar {Mandixa farinhio) and vegetables. It is said to be celebrated for a fine-flavoured grape, highly prized by the Brazilians. The city of Pernambuco is divided into three districts, called San Pedro de Gronsalvo or Recife, Boa Vista, and San Antonio. The principal buildings are seventeen Catholic churches, one English Episcopal church, two monasteries, three asylums for girls, six hospitals, a theatre, custom-house, dockyard, arsenal, marine and military barracks, with a Lyceum, two Latin and seventy-five primary schools. There are three newspapers issued daily, two of them in Portuguese and one in English, giving the general news of the day, and these as far as I could judge were very ably conducted. The appearance of Pernambuco from the sea is not attrac- tive ; and, as a great part of it is built on low flat land, little of the city is visible. The large white tower of the arsenal on the Prayos, with some of the highest buildings, are first seen ; but from the waves dashing over the reef and sending up showers of spray, their foundations are hidden, and they seem to rise from the waters. I called on Mr. Adamson, our consul, and had a very pleasant hour's chat with him. Captain Carter and myself attended the opening of the Exhibition by Dom Jose Perreira, and were introduced to the President, who received us courteously. The address was well conceived, giving a general review of the improvements made in the province during the past year, and comparing them with those of former years. He then referred to the progress made in the United States in arts and sciences, the wonderful strides in agriculture, and the large amount of cereals we produce. Also to the great inventive genius of America, mentioning the singular fact that, during the late rebellion, in the short space of three or four years, we had completely revolutionised modern warfare ! Our monitors, our great guns, our merchant ships and frigates, and our iron hearts and hands to man them, all were Ch I.] A BRAZILIAN EXHIBITION. 13 descanted on. I listened for more than an hour, in an atmo- sphere of 90° Fahrenheit, and was glad to be shown to the exhibition-rooms, where all the products of the country were collected. The President offering his arm to Mrs. Adamson, our consul's wife, we went down to the rooms, the band playing Dom Pedro's march. The first thing that attracted our attention was a large case of elegant vestments which were wrought in gold and silver thread, probably for the clergy of the district, and a flag of silk richly embroidered, bearing the arms of Brazil in its centre. There were perfect models of ships, brigs, steamers, &c., made by the apprentices of the marine arsenal, and very creditably done. In one compartment were all the woods of the province, some very beautiful ; but I was informed that they had never been introduced as articles of commerce. I tasted some excel- lent wine from the fruit of the cashew, which the manufacturer told me would be made in such quantities the following year as to yield sufiicient for shipment. There were also fine samples of native oils and vinegars. The cereals were prominent — abundant and of good quality. There were fifty-two kinds of beans, several quite new to me. There were also very fair native paintings. ' On the whole it was a creditable ex- hibition, and pleased us greatly, as many articles were quite equal to European manufacture. Our time and the heat did not allow us to examine everything very closely, and we were not sorry to get into the fresh air. The beautiful town of Olenda is about two miles from Per- nambuco, and is situated on the sides of a very high hill, the summit of which is crowned by a large convent. For many years Olenda was the capital of the province, but, owing to its distance from the harbour rendering it unfavourable for com- merce, the town of Eecife has taken the preference. The pretty Lauristinus, or a plant very closely resembling it, flourishes here, and forms a beautiful contrast with the dusky olive and the graceful palm and cocoa-nut trees. The view from the hill is magnificent, looking down into the valley below and over the city of Pernambuco, which can be seen above the fine groves of mangoes and other trees. The captain and I visited the monastery, and were politely and hospitably received by the Bishop. H A FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. [Ch. I. A sumptuous repast was spread for us, and we were shown over the building, which is kept in fine order. There are two large organs in the chapel, and the seats and stands in the gallery, where the monks of old used to chant their services, are beautifully carved. In Dom Pedro's time, when the monasteries were suppressed, the clcck-work attached to the chimes in the tower was destroyed, the bells were melted, and the machinery all broken up, and this a priest pointed out to me lying on the floor, and sighed sadly as he told of its departed glories. It is still an open question whether the breaking-up of these monastic institutions did not do more harm to the labouring classes than the suppression of a few abuses did good. I must not forget the Foundling Hospital, which stands at a little distance from the monastery. Near the door in a recess is a swinging cradle, with a bell-rope attached. When a child is brought, it is laid in the cradle, and the bell is rung. Silently the cradle is turned, and the child taken out, when a number is placed on its neck, and a corresponding one put into the empty cradle, as it swings back into its place. This is to enable the child to be identified at any future period. No one is visible, no question is asked ; nothing is ever known of the anguish of those who thus leave their children to strangers' care. How many aching hearts may have stood beside that cradle, as the little one has been laid within, to save it from shame, starvation, or perhaps death ; for infanticide was preva- lent before the foundation of this asylum. We did not enter, but I could see the nurses with their Httle charges on the lawn in front of the place, which was very quiet, and in a very wholesome condition. Near this is a large convent, where young ladies of the best families are sent to be educated; and a fair proportion of whom become so in love with convent life as to refuse to leave it, and take the veil. The luxuriance of the vegetation in the whole province of Pernambuco is remarkable even for the tropics. I will not attempt to describe what has been so often 'done by abler pens than mine. It would be but a repetition of magnificent trees covered with wild lianes loaded with blossom, orchids which imitate insects and moths, birds of the brightest hues, and the oppressive fragrance of a tropical forest. Ch. I.] RIO. 15 Some of the streets of Pernambuco are wide and spacious, containing handsome buildings ; but even the narrow streets were kept very clean, though I should mention I did not see it in the rainy season. The Palace a Campo stands near the theatre, and is a fine well-arranged building, with large gardens attached, filled with rare and beautiful exotic plants. The Palace Square seemed, from its position, a very desirable place of residence. The principal business part of the city is built on an island, and there is communication with the mainland by five large, well-built bridges. One of them is a massive iron structure, built by an English engineer. October 17 we left Pernambuco, with a fair wind, for Eio, where we arrived on the 23rd. , As we entered the harbour we found the U.S.S. flagship « Brooklyn,' and fired a salute to the admiral of thirteen guns, which was responded to, and her brass band favoured us with ' Hail Columbia ' as we passed her. Soon after anchoring. Captain Carter went on board the ' Brooklyn,' and word was then sent to the ' Monocacy ' to fire a salute of eighty-six guns to the Brazilian, Spanish, Portuguese, British, and French vessels of war then in the harbour. It was promptly returned from all their iron mouths, as well as from the Brazilian forts, so that our advent made some stir in the place. As you enter Eio harbour, the scenery is grand and imposing. The Sugarloaf and Corcovada Mountains, with their bold precipitous cliffs, frown down upon you; the Organ Mountains lie in the distance, and a long range of hills borders the coast. The harbour is well fortified and studded with picturesque islands. When we went ashore we landed at the Palace Square, where is the residence of the Emperor of the Brazils. There was a regiment of soldiers parading in it before embarkation for Paraguay, and such a motley set I never saw before. The officers wore brilliant uniforms, and cocked hats bedizened with gold lace and flaunting plumes. Brazil was then at war with Paraguay, with the view of a complete destruction of the sovereignty, independency, and integrity of that country. For this purpose it had formed a secret alliance with the governments of Buenos Ayres and C i6 THE BRAZILIANS. [Ch. 1. Uruguay. This alliance becoming known, excited great indignation throughout the remaining republics of South America. Soldiers were everywhere recruiting in the streets, as large bounties were offered to such as would fill up the decimated ranks. The Brazilians consider themselves superior to the Portu- guese ; but in my opinion they have sadly degenerated from the parent stock, as the contrast between the Cascadores of Portugal and the flower of the Brazilian army is very great. Then again, the manners and customs are entirely different, and the language greatly corrupted, as I did not hear pure Portuguese spoken in any part of the Brazils. The city of Eio was cleaq, and the sanitary laws are excellent, and seem rigidly executed. Just beyond the Palace Square there is an American restaurant, where all the fancy drinks, from an ' Eye-opener ' to a Champagne ' corpse-reviver,' can be procured from sunrise to sunrise. The principal business street of the city is the Eua d'Ouvidor. There you can purchase the choicest and richest merchandise of the world. The native costume is now rarely seen in Rio, as both ladies and gentlemen have gone into the extreme of French fashion ; and Parisian milliners, tailors, barbers, &c., occupy the principal shops of the Eua d'Ouvidor. The diamond merchants, too, have their stores here ; and, judging from the fondness of all classes for jewellery, I should think there was a flourishing trade. There are two theatres, and in one of them I saw the Barhe Bleu performed very creditably by a French troupe. Several daily papers are published, but education does not seem to progress rapidly under the present government. The Misericordia Hospital is one of the finest and best con- ducted in the world. It is under the management of a com- pany, and the nurses are the Soeurs de Gharite, It contains 1,500 clean and comfortable-looking beds, while the floors of boxwood, brightly polished, give a cool aspect that must be refreshing to a sick man in a tropical climate. There are many hotels, some of them well kept up, and with good tables, at reasonable prices. Taken altogether, Eio is as cheap a place as one could wish. The people are polite and Ch. I.] RIO: HOSPITAL AND PARK. 17 hospitable to foreigners, and at the time we visited it the city was very healthy. Most of the merchants doing business in the city have their dwellings in the suburbs. Eio boasts of two public gardens, one called the ' Botanical or Emperor's Grarden,' about eight miles from it, and the other the ' Passeio Publico,' within the city. The latter is enclosed by a handsome iron railing on the W. and N. ; on the S. by a high wall ; and the east is built up to form an esplanade, looking over the sea. As you enter the gardens through a large gateway facing the street, the stranger's eye is struck with the fine bronze statues, on pedestals of the same material, on each side of the entrance. Passing down the main avenue, shaded by gigantic palms, to our surprise we came upon a number of American larch, spruce, and arbor-vitse, all thriving well. There is a winding stream through the grounds, with pretty little islands formed in it, and on its waters floated numbers of aquatic plants brought from the mighty Amazon. Black and white swans, native wild ducks, gulls, boobies, cranes, the white egret, and the scarlet ibis, all are to be seen about the grass near the water, or under the trees planted there to give them shade from the fierce heat of the tropical sun. In the stream there were two manittas, or sea-cows. These huge monsters were quite tame, and either lay basking in the sun, or in the shallow parts of the water, just showing their noses above the surface. It is very rare to see them in confinement ; but these appeared quite happy, and were on the best terms with their feathered comrades, and followed the black swans about everywhere. As we crossed the stream over a little bridge, we saw a flight of steps opposite to us leading to the esplanade, and at the foot of them were two cast-iron alligators, partially hidden by artificial rock-work, covered with ferns and creeping plants. From the mouths of these monsters flow streams of clear water, which fall into a large basin, wherein I found some interesting plants ; amongst others, some Tetraspora, Ulvacece, two species of Confervce, &c. &c. At the top of the steps is a statue of Cupid, with a flask in his hand, out of which he incessantly pours deliciously cool water, that we found most grateful, as the day was hot, and we were tired with our long ramble. The view i8 JACK-FRUIT, [Ch. I. from the esplanade looking over the bay, is very fine. You see in the foreground the two forts that defend the harbour ; the pretty little church to ' JSfossa Senhora dos Navigates,' on the island mountain, and the buildings occupied by the pupils of the Naval Academy ; and in the distance the village of St. Domingo, and the beautiful mountains of Jurajuba. A good refreshment-room is in this garden, provided with seats and tjables under the shade of some beautiful trees, and where we tasted the native ale, which we found excellent. On leaving I saw the celebrated Vanilla-bean plant twining round the trunks of large trees, to which it clings like ivy, by very strong tendrils that shoot from the joints, and almost bury themselves like roots in the bark of the supporting tree. The Passeio Publico is quite a fashionable promenade in the warm summer evenings. We visited St. Domingo, taking the ferry-boat, and landing at the floating-bridge, which is similar in construction to that at Fulton Ferry, in Brooklyn, New York. In the principal square sat numbers of coloured women, with all the fruits of the season spread out on the ground before them for sale. ^I observed for the first time the singular Jack-fruit, Artocarpus integrifolia. We purchased one, but did not find it at all to our taste, though highly esteemed by the Brazilians. The large seeds are the best part of it. I have since often eaten them cooked, and liked them. The fruit, when cut, we could not be tempted to eat, though assured it was very nice. Being- blessed with an acute scent, we could not get over its disgusting smell of putrid meat ; and, strange to say, the meat-fly hovers round it, just as if it were a piece of carrion. The tree is very handsome, and at a little distance resembles the magnolia ; but the leaf is darker, and its foliage is so dense as to be impervious to the sun. The monster fruit grows on a very short stem, and hangs from the trunk of the tree. I have seen it more than two feet long, and twelve to sixteen inches in diameter. After examining all the diff*erent fruits, we strolled through the streets, and were greatly delighted at the taste displayed in the residences and the fine gardens attached to them. We saw oranges and tanjarines growing everywhere, and for the first time the mammse apple (Papaya edulis). The tree grows from ten to fifteen feet high, and looks not unlike the foliage Ch. I.] JURAJUBA. 19 of the castor-oil nut-tree, except that the leaves are of a thinner texture, and grow in a large graceful tuft at the top of the trunk, and the fruit hangs just under the crown. Many of these exceed a pound in weight, and when ripe are of a bright yellow, filled with brownish seeds in a pulpy bed. The taste is not un- pleasant when eaten, but leaves a peppery flavour. The Prayos seems to be a favourite walk of the Brazilian ladies, here still dressed in the graceful Spanish costume, with veils on their heads. In every case they were accompanied by slaves, either black or yellow, it not being etiquette for a lady to appear unattended by one or more. The country people were very polite, and willingly answered questions, and gave me any information I required. From the Prayos I went to Jurajuba, a small place near Santa Cruz, inhabited chiefly by fishermen, who supply the markets at Eio. There is little variety of fish in the harbour. The principal are graupers, black and blue fish, and rays ; one of the latter I saw caught, was at least twenty feet across his fins. There are large quantities of a small fish they call a sardine, very like the mossbunkers, and most unlike the sardine of the Mediterranean. They are certainly the best flavoured fish brought to market. The prawns of Eio are in abundance, and are probably the finest in the world. There are great numbers of edible crabs, which are nearly all sold by Chinese, who hawk them about in large baskets slung on their shoulders. After passing through Jurajuba, I shaped my course up the mountain, towards a small opening in the woods. Bright coloured butterflies fluttered across my path, and now and then a gorgeous-plumaged bird would start up before me, and, utter- ing a soft plaintive note, disappear in the dense foliage. The place was covered with noble palms, mangoes, and flowering shrubs. I walked for some distance in a southerly direction, but at length found it impossible to penetrate deeper through the dense underbrush. The vines and creepers were so thickly intertwined, I was obliged to retrace my steps. I col- lected a good many rare botanical specimens, and got a few snakes and lizards, which abound here, the former are most of them poisonous. As night was approaching, I hastened on in hopes of reaching St. Domingo ; but, after walking two or three miles, I found I 20 LOST IN THE JUNGLE. [Ch. II had lost my way. The sun was fast sinking in the west ; and the unpleasant idea of having to spend a night alone in a Brazilian forest was beginning to force itself on me. As I had a Colt's revolver and a large knife in my girdle, I began seriously to contemplate taking up my quarters in a tree, should I not succeed in finding an opening. I walked on for about half an hour unsuccessfully, and as it was then quite dark, had just decided on going to roost, when I heard the voice of a muleteer singing to his mules in the distance. I lost no time in shouting at the top of my voice, and to my great joy was answered, and he soon came to my rescue. He told me I was ten or twelve miles from St. Domingo ; that he was a slave going to market to sell fruit for his master ; and that if I would accompany him, he would guide me. He was astonished to find I could speak his language, and still more that I was foolish enough to penetrate the jungle solus. The stories he told me of the ounce {Felis onca) were enough to frighten anyone, but fortunately I knew them to be mostly imaginary. Both the ounce and boa constrictor are common in Brazil, but rarely seen in this neighbourhood. The only dreaded thing I met with was the terrible snake, the Jararaca {Bothrops Neuwiedia\ which is a near relation to the rattlesnake, and which abounds on the grassy slopes. It makes a whistling noise as you approach it, and elevates its body like a cobra. Scarcely a clump of bamboos is without one of these reptiles, the bite of which is certain death. It is generally most prudent to get out of their way ; but the sight of a snake always arouses my organ of combativeness, and I kill it whenever I can get a chance to do so. My companion was very chatty, and told me no end of marvels. Amongst others, he said that when he first heard my voice he tied his mules high up the mountain, their panniers laden with fruit and vegetables, as he was sure no one would molest them there. I was curious to know the reason of this perfect security ; so he told me it was because ' They were so near heaven,' and added, as a corroboration, that a ' man who was killed up there by an ounce went straight up to heaven, as purgatory was many hundred feet below him ! ' We took a narrow footpath on our descent into the valley, which was a short cut, luckily well known to the man, for it was so dark I was obliged to keep close to the mules. Cn. L] PREPARATIONS. 21 Being anxious to get back, I urged him on, and we got to St. Domingo at three o'clock in the morning ; when there I at once put off in a boat for the ' Monocacy,' where my friends were beginning to think I was lost. In spite of my exploring difficulties, I had been so charmed with what I had seen, that I determined to pay another visit to the Brazilian forests. ' I had been constantly asked if I had ascended the Corcovada ; and as I wished very much to do so, I tried to get up a party from the ship to accompany me, but unsuccessfully ; so made up my mind the following Monday to be up early, and off to the mountain. Before that time, however, the Eev. Mr. Schneider, the American missionary there, offered to accompany me, and re- quested me to call for him very early. I did so, but the Fates were against me ; his wife was so ill that he could not leave her. Nothing daunted, I still resolved to go on alone ; par- ticularly as he assured me it was perfectly safe to do so, and gave me directions for the ascent. In an hour's time I was fairly on my way up, my vasculum strapped on my back, and a good stout hickory stick to help me on. The road was good enough for carriages to drive along as far as the great aqueduct, which is supplied from a reservoir up the mountain, and carries in a sufficient stream of water for the whole of Eio. I passed many gentlemen's residences, most of them under preparation for the reception of their owners during the summer months ; the fine gardens attached to each were being put in order. Along the aqueduct were a great variety of herbaceous plants, ferns, and mosses. The tree-fern (Trichopteris excelsa) is found at this level, and everyone of the gigantic forest trees was covered from root to branch with orchidese, cacti, and twining plants. The road crossed deep ravines over bridges. In their dark recesses the sun never shines, and the fronds of the ferns were some of them fifteen feet long by three or four broad. The luxuriance of these cryptogams tempted me out of my path ; and I was climbing over a wall near a bridge in order to descend, when I heard a voice shouting to me not to venture, as it was full of snakes and other slimy monsters. I found my informant was a 22 ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADA. [Ch. I. coloured man, lying under the shade of some banana trees. He was going up the mountain with a basket of provisions for the labourers working on the road. He told me no one ever dared descend into these ravines on account of the venomous snakes. He said it was common to meet the boa constrictor, but it was only the jararaca he feared. Whilst speaking, one glided along the road, and made the peculiar whistling noise that warns of its approach. My com- panion at once crossed himself and began reciting his prayers, while I killed the reptile and popped him into my bottle. The road is good as far as the reservoir, which is a fine piece of work of dressed granite, built on the side of the mountain. The main aqueduct is covered in with masonry till it reaches the city, a distance of some miles. After refreshing myself, I took leave of the old man, striking into a narrow winding path, which in some places is only cut out of the side of the mountain, and is there very steep and dangerous. By eleven o'clock I arrived at the upper water-works, about 1,800 feet above sea-level. So circuitous had been my route, I found I had travelled about fourteen miles by my pedometer. At this height ther«e are a few small huts built, one of them occupied by a Portuguese naturalist, who had charge of the works. He furnished me with refreshments ; and while I was resting myself, a group of seven or eight darkies made their appear- ance, who had been engaged all the morning in removing a large stone which had fallen in and impeded the water-course. They were all slaves, but the most jovial set I had ever met with. Never did the fetters of slavery sit lighter on any of the descendants of Ham. After eating some lumps of brown bread and salt fish, and washing it down with Canna aguardienta, they began singing and dancing, strange to say to the tune of ' Ole Dan Tucker.' An old grey-headed fellow kept time, by tapping on the end of a barrel with two sticks. They had the double- shuffle, all-hands-round, plantation dance, and many others. Finally, one of them sung a plaintive air about Massa Linkum, and they all appeared well acquainted with the tragic fate of him whom they called the ' father of the black man,' and I saw bis portrait everywhere. I was much amused with these coloured ' children of a Ch. I.] THE TOP OF THE PEAK, 23 larger growth,' and passed on, earning their good wishes by giving a few patacaos to each, and entreaties to the Virgin to protect me; but they all advised me to keep out of the jungle. Up I went, and the higher I got the more bewilder- ingly lovely became the scene. I caught a view of the ocean from the SW. side, but soon lost it in the difficulties of the ascent. I reached the summit by one o'clock, and was richly repaid for the toilsome journey. The government had erected a sort of look-out and telegraphic establishment, with seats for visitors to rest themselves, but it had been abandoned for some years. The peak rises to about 2,600 feet, and on its eastern face nearly two-thirds of it is a perpendicular precipice. Just as I arrived at the top, the men-of-war in the harbour were firing a salute, and the effect was very singular as the sound struck the bold cliffs of the mountain. The panoramic view obtained at this point is magnificent. Looking down on the bay, studded with its tree-covered islands, the outlines of the distant mountain ranges, the ocean dotted here and there with merchant-ships making for the port ; the lofty peaks of Tijuco and Gravea, with their precipitous sides clothed with mighty forests ; the plantations of coffee, oranges, and mandiocca in the valleys ; altogether made a scene never to be effaced from my memory. The trees at the foot of the mountain are very large, but the vegetable growth sensibly lessens towards the summit. I know not how long I should have gazed on the view before me, had I not been unpleasantly roused from my reverie by finding I had seated myself in such close proximity to a small grey snake, coiled up, that I could have touched it with my hand. I killed it with a single blow of my stick, and believe the snake was a very poisonous one. I began to descend, collecting ferns, insects, and reptiles, till my vasculum and bottles were all full. When I had reached the shoulder, there was a very inviting opening into which, of course, I went. I had not penetrated far, when my attention was arrested by some large bright coloured butterflies on the tpomoeas. Whilst waiting for them to settle, I was arranging my scaup-net on my stick, when I heard a singular noise near me. On looking 24 SCARED BY A SNAKE. [Ch. I. down I discovered I was only about fifteen feet from a large snake half coiled under an aloe, with crest erected and mouth open. I confess I felt frightened, and did not at all approve of coming to South America to be ignominiously swallowed by a snake. Determined however to sell my life as dearly as possible, I raised my old hickory stick, meaning to try it on his vertebrae if he approached, at the same time steadily beating a retreat. When at some distance, finding he did not move, I lifted a large stone and hurled it at him, at the same time giving a tremendous yell. I missed him, but the brute uncoiled and slunk away into the thicket, and as soon as he disappeared I took to my heels, and made off as fast as I could, tearing my clothes and scratching my face, in my hirrry to get away from the monster's quarters. ^ In the meantime my friend at the reservoir, alarmed at my long absence up the mountain, came to look for me. I heard him holloaing long before I got out of the wood, but I soon reached the main road, and it was not long before I was seated on the grass enjoying some capital rice and curry with him. Towards four o'clock I left, my friend escorting me some dis- tance, lest I should again lose my way. He told me that a few weeks before a party of ladies and gentlemen made the ascent to the shoulder on horseback for a pic-nic. When returning, a young lady and her companion had preceded the party, and in a narrow place her horse grew restive and refused to stir ; the whip was applied, when he threw her off over the precipice, the sides of which were studded with trees. Luckily her dress caught in some branches, and held her suspended over the awful abyss below. She was soon rescued, and the cause of the horse's swerving was discovered in a large boa constrictor lying across the road, its head and tail invisible. They attacked it, but at the first blow it disap- peared in the ravine. After accompanying me for a mile or two, my friend Pedro Gronsalves left me. He was a good specimen of the kind- hearted and hospitable people of the country to which he belongs. I had not gone far when the rumble of distant thunder Ch. I.] A SAFER RETREAT, ' 25 warned me not to loiter. The whole sky became overcast, and heavy rain-drops came pattering down. Seeing a light at some distance below, I made all haste to reach it, but did not succeed before the rain fell in torrents, the thunder echoed from cliff to cliff, and the vivid flashes of lightning almost blinded me. I entered a small shanty on the roadside, but could see no one. I announced my arrival in the usual way by clapping my hands ; and then as I advanced I saw behind a large wooden chest an old couple with their child kneeling, offering up prayers to their patron saint, to protect them from the storm fiends. I did not disturb them, but remained near the door- way till the rain had passed. They then came forward, and asked me how I came to be in such a lonely place, as they could not understand how anyone could go there who was not obliged. The man was guardian to part of the aqueduct. He told me he was a native of Viana, in Portugal, and showed the greatest delight when he found I knew the place well. While con- versing with him, his old wife busied herself with preparations for supper, and invited me to partake of it. It consisted of brouer or coarse bread, made of unbolted rye and Indian meal, and fried bachalau or salt fish. I was very hungry, so ate heartily, and washed it down with a good draught of water, for wine they had none. I left two cruzados novas with the old couple, and earned a shower of blessings, and entreaties to San Antonio to protect me in my descent. It soon grew quite dark ; and it was with difficulty I reached Eio by midnight, wet and tired. I did not go on board, but stayed at the hotel, and next day paid a visit to the Botanical or Emperor's Gardens, about eight miles from the city. It is a pleasant drive, past all the pretty gardens and cottages, to the comfortable inn close to the place. The most prominent feature there is some rows of the Oreodoxa Eegia palm, most of them nearly forty feet in height. They were planted by Dom John VI., who founded the gardens. There is a fine avenue of Casuarinas, rows of cinnamon and clove-trees, and the tea-plant. These have been introduced with the view of cultivating them as articles of commerce ; and I think, if properly managed, 26 • CAMPO DI SANTA ANNA, [Ch. I. they will be successful, as the climate seems to suit them. At San Paalo is a tea-plantation, which already sends tea of good quality to the Eio market. A little stream flows through the grounds, bordered with clumps of the graceful feathery bamboo, that gives such elegance to tropical scenery. The Jack and bread-fruit trees grow very large. I was astonished to find a total absence of the thousands of beautiful indigenous plants, which could be easily collected in the immediate vicinity. Even the rare and lovely orchidese of the country would make charming groups, and be of the greatest interest to the foreigner. I was greatly disappointed with the gardens, and thought how different they would have been in either Europe or America, with such a wealth of material close to hand, enough to make them of world-wide fame. In a fine square, the Campo di Santa Anna, is the national museum ; but it was scarcely worth a visit, all the specimens jumbled together without any arrangement or order. This square also contains a theatre and a number of Grovernment buildings. In the Campo di Dom Pedro is a fine statue of this emperor in bronze, and the square is ornamented with beautiful trees and flowering shrubs. The country produces sugar, cotton, delicious fruits, and coffee ; the latter is the principal export. Eio contains about 175,000 inhabitants, the greater portion of which are coloured. It can boast of one of the finest docks in the world ; hewn out of the solid rock, and cost many millions of dollars. It is the work of an English engineer. There is an iron foundry, which I visited, and its works will vie with those of European nations. This is also under the management of Europeans and Americans. On November 19 we were ready for sea; our engines had been overhauled and put in perfect order, and we steamed up the har- bour and anchored ofi" Coal Island. At noon three Spanish frigates fired a salute in commemoration of the Queen of Spain's corona- tion. Their masts were lined with the flags of all nations, and they fired fast and regularly a hundred guns. On the 22nd the ' Monocacy ' turned her head towards the sea, and we slowly steamed away. When close to the stern of the English flag-ship, the admiral Ch. I.] DEPARTURE. 27 gave us a good-bye salute. Just as we left a clipper ship was putting into the port in distress, having lost her top-masts and bulwarks. As we passed St. Cruz a swell set in from the west. The ship rolled heavily, as we were deep in the water, having 300 tons of coal on board, including 40 tons on deck. &UGAR-LOAF HILL. CHAPTER II. EASTWAED BOUND. Bad Weather — Catching an Albatross — Accident to Captain — Brilliance of Southern Constellations— Serious Consequences of killing an Albatross — "Whale Brit — Tristan d'Acunha — Its History — Chemical Barometer, and how to make it — Arrival in Simon s Baj — Description of Country — Cape Sheep — Hottentot Venus — The Pilot — Baboons — A Night in the Mountains — Ascent of Table Mountain — Principal Features of Cape Town — Harbour Sights — A Cape "Waggon — Churches — Masonry — The Government — A Dutch Boer — Eoad from Cape Tosvn to Simon's Bay — Adieu to the Cape — A Hurricane — Hints on Cyclones — Mauritius at Last. Again on the wide ocean, onward bound ; but we soon found it was not to be smooth sailing, for we had been but one day at sea when the weather changed. On the night of the 23rd it was so rough, everything was rolling and pitching about, and keeping up such a clattering that sleep was impossible. The guns frequently dipped in the water, and the waves broke over the hurricane deck. Many of both officers and men were sea-sick, myself amongst the number. I lay tossing from side to side, and wondering how people could like the sea. I thought of the song ' Some love to roam o'er the dark sea's foam,' but decidedly give me the ' Life in the woods.' My only consolation was that the waves which surged over our vessel, and the wind that whistled round us, carried us rapidly on our way ; this pleased our captain, too, for he was very anxious to get far to the SE., beyond the river La Plate, to avoid the Pampero which prevails at this season. This wind is so called from its blowing off the Pampas, and is dreaded by navigators cruising in these latitudes. Towards noon of the 24th, though little squalls of rain con- tinued, the barometer indicated a change for the better ; and I amused myself fishing with line and hook, baited with pork, for a large albatross which hovered round the ship. The hook had a Ch. II.] DIVINE SERVICE AT SEA. 29 bit of wood for a float, and the bird would gracefully sail round it, and then plunge at the bait ; but as I was quite a novice at this kind of bird-catching, I failed in my efforts. He did not, however, quit us, but, in company with some petrels, kept round about the ship till dark. The 25th rose bright and clear, and all was bustle and activity on deck, as the crew were being exercised at the guns. After this the men had their day to themselves. It was curious to watch them all, seated over the deck with their biddy-boxes of needles, thread, buttons, &c. Some were making shirts, TABLE MOUNTAIN. pants, or cap-covers ; others cutting out new, or mending old clothes, and very deftly too ; for a man-of-war's man can turn his hand to everything. During the day there was a sale of the effects of two or three sailors who had deserted at Eio. Beds, bedding, wearing apparel, every article, was put up separately, and knocked down to the highest bidder ; and a good deal of fun was made as any rather out-of-the-way thing, or ragged garment, was held up. Divine service was held by Captain Carter regularly every sabbath. All came aft in their best clothes, and seated them- selves quietly and reverently. The American flag was spread over a table, and when prayers were read, officers and men joined in a hymn. It is, I think, a peculiarly impressive service, out on the -deep blue ocean. There were 175 souls shut away from all the world, assembling, and uniting their voices so AN ALBATROSS. [Ch. II. in praise of their Creator. In the evening I sat in the ward- room with the officers, and we sang all the good old psalm tunes. They brought back younger days when, at the old fire- side at home, all the dear ones, now dead or scattered, joined in the holy songs. No little excitement was one day aroused by an accident that nearly proved fatal to our captain. He was standing near the rail, watching the men cleaning a boat ; and as they were hauling it into its place, one of the davits struck him and sent him overboard. Fortunately, he caught at a block and rope, and with difficulty saved himself. It was a narrow escape, as we were steaming along six knots, and had he gone down to the water there would have been little chance of saving him. Officers and men looked pale when they heard of it, for the captain was much liked, and they congratulated him heartily. His loss would have been a great grief to us all, and an irre- parable one to our ship. Albatrosses and petrels were always round us. The men tried hard to get me one of the former, but for a long while unsuccessfully. One of our sailors named Benaro, at last caught one, and after great resistance he drew him on board ; but not before it had taxed his utmost skill and strength. In about half an hour another was hooked, and we let them go about on the deck together. They were fine birds, but looked very droll waddling along. I had been instructed to procure a fine specimen of this bird for one of our large public institutions. I was anxious to kill one without injuring his plumage, and so gave him a dose of cyanide of potassium about as large as a pea ; in less than a minute he lay over on his side, dead without a struggle. We concluded to give the other his liberty ; but first fastened a strip of copper round his neck, on which was engraved the name of our ship, and our lat. and long., and then sent him over the side. He was so astonished at finding himself once more in the water that he did not attempt to fly off, but kept swimming after us. In these latitudes the zodiacal stars, such as Orion and Arcturus, give the mariner the E. and W. bearings, and the Southern Cross the N. and S. when Polaris and the Grreat Bear can no longer be seen. I had heard so much of the Southern Cross, I was anxious to see it ; but confess if it had not been pointed out to me, I should not have discovered it. Ch. II.] THE STARS. 31 Perhaps it may be more brilliant when we are more to the south. But the other constellations are magnificent, and it was one of my greatest pleasures on board to sit gazing up at the wonderful beauty overhead. How many queries are suggested to a reflecting mind when we take an attentive view of the celestial vault that overtops our world, with the planets and stars one after the other emerging from the blue ethereal, and gradually illuminating the firmament, till it is spangled over with its shining orbs, moving in silent grandeur at such immense distances as to be past the range of human comprehension I Who, while contemplating them, can doubt the existence of the Supreme Being who has created them, and guides these millions of worlds in their courses ? Then came the unanswerable questions, What purpose do* they serve in the vast plan of the universe ? How do their laws, physical and moral, differ from ours ? Are they inhabited by sentient beings, like ourselves, actuated by the same hopes and fears, the same passions, and subject to dissolution even as we are ? Here my meditations were cut short by a call to go aft, and look at the myriads of medusse and squids swimming- round the ship. Being disturbed by the motion of the vessel, they threw off a phosphoric light, so brilliant that their forms could be discerned. The sides of the vessel were illuminated till every bolt and bar was visible. It was most interesting to watch them, and we could see that they continued to give out this electric light till they were far astern. About eleven o'clock a large meteor crossed the heavens, at about 75 degrees, and took a western flight, till it sank below the horizon. It appeared about the size of a man's head, and left a train of brilliant light behind it like a sky-rocket. I seemed to hear a rushing noise as it passed through the atmo- sphere. The light remained for half a minute before it faded away. Many smaller meteors appeared the same evening, taking the same course, shooting with the greatest velocity. On the 28th we had a squall that carried away our topmasts, which increased to a gale by night. Instead of the calm placid appearance of the preceding evening, we had the sea running mountains high, and the wind howling through the rigging. However, I turned in, and contrived to sleep soundly in spite D 32 SUPERSTITIONS AT SEA. [Ch. II. of wind and weather. Up to December 3 we had continual squalls, when I found, to my utter astonishment, that to Trie was attri- buted a good deal of the contrariety of the elements ! The sailors averred that it was all owing to my having killed the albatross. When the storm was at its height on the Sunday, they entreated me not to kill any more of these birds, as they are considered to be the spirits of seamen lost in the ocean ; and who, dying un- assoiled, have to wander over the face of the deep for an infinity of years ; and they hover round ships in the hope of seeing some of their old comrades. I could not help laughing at the superstition, which was partially shared even by some of the officers ; but finding them so earnest in their belief, I promised that no other bird should DO molested by me while on board. I was sorry for the sake of science ; for I saw some of the yellow-nosed albatrosses and large petrels afterwards, which I should like to have got for the Long Island Historical Society, New York, but was obliged to allow the lost spirits to sail on in security, protected by the brave sons of Neptune. Luckily for me they did not serve me like Coleridge's ' Ancient Mariner,' and hang the dead bird round my neck,. For I had done a hellish thing, And it would work me woe ; For all averred I had killed the bird, That made the fair breeze blow. ' Ah wretch,' said they, ' the bird to slay, That made the breeze to blow.' For several evenings I saw the most brilliant meteors ; and the long continuation of them seemed so remarkable, I suggested they should be noticed in the log. But no — the officer on deck could not be made to see ' the use ' of recording ' falling stars,' as he called them. It is a pity our Naval Academy does not do more towards cultivating the minds as well as develop- ing the physical powers of the men. As it is, as good or better men might be taken out of our mercantile marine to man our ships of war. On the 4th I observed large red patches of what appeared like weeds on the sea, and got one of the sailors to take up a bucket of water containing some of the substance. I found it was alive with crustaceous animals which whalemen call Brit, Ch. II.] TRISTAN UACUNHA. 33 on which the right whale feeds. The presence of this food accounts for our having seen so many whales. We were then in Lat. 36. 20, Long. 16. 15. On the 5th, was heard the cheering cry of Land ho ! from the mast-head, and on the windward beam we soon saw the moun- tain of Tristan d'Acunha appearing above the white clouds that hung on the horizon. Though w^e had a fair view of the islands, we could not approach them, as the weather was uncer- tain, and it is considered a dangerous coast ; so we gave them a good wide berth to leeward, and proceeded on our course. I TRISTAN D'ACUNHA. collected, however, some information about them, which I will relate. There are three islands in the group, but one only is inhabited. They were discovered by the Portuguese. The mountain in the central island is said to be 8,356 feet high, ac- cessible to its summit, although it is snow-capped a greater part of the year. Trees grow half way up, but the rest is a rugged peak. Captain Patten of the ship ' Industry ' was there, sealing, from August 1790 to April 1791. An open bay lies on the west, with a line beach of black sand, where the ship's boats were hauled up. There are two falls of excellent water, afford- 34 GOVERNOR GLASS, [Ch. II. ing a supply sufficient for a large fleet ; and from one of these cascades the water casks could be filled by means of a hose, without removing them from the boats. There is a good deal of timber, though not high. The prin- cipal trees resemble the yew in foliage, with a wood like the maple,^ and burns well. Wild celery, dock, sorrel, and parsley are found. Grannets, penguins, albatrosses. Cape cocks and hens, and a bird something like a partridge, only it is black, and cannot fly, are abundant. Such numbers of sea lions are on this coast, that Captain Patten said he could have loaded a ship with the oil in three weeks. Between the shore and the foot of the mountain is a fine rich soil, of a red colour and good depth, well adapted for the growth of vegetables. In 1811 one Jonathan Lambert, an American, by a singular edict, declared himself sovereign proprietor of the island. He sowed the ground with various seeds, and planted coffee and canes, both of which did well. He, however, soon abandoned it ; and, at a later period, the British Grovernment took formal possession of it, by a detachment from the Cape of Grood Hope. An old Serjeant of artillery called Glass, was made Grovernor, and a little colony was formed of twenty-two men and three women. In 1823 a British vessel putting in there was astonished to find Englishmen, and an abundant supply of vegetables, pigs, goats, fruit, and water. Griass told the sailors if there were only a few more of the fair sex, it would be a Paradise. In 1829 Captain Ben Morrell, of the U.S.Ship ' Antartic,' said he found seven families living there very comfortably under the administration of Griass ; and keeping bullocks, sheep, goats, poultry, eggs, butter and milk, all which they sell to ships on very reasonable terms. The inhabitants have increased to eighty-five, and the island is considered the healthiest known ; no epidemic has reached it, and children have none of the diseases elsewhere common to them. This island lies 1,320 miles S. of St. Helena, in Lat. 37. 2. 48, Long. 12. 18. 29. ' Possibly the Yellow-wool of the Cape, though that tree grows large and high in the forest Ch. II.] A HOME-MADE BAROMETER. 35 After passing Tristan d'Acunha, we began to see the pretty black and white Cape pigeons, that swim round the ship like a flock of ducks, and greedily pick up any scraps the sailors throw overboard. Every night, from November 27 to December 6, meteors were seen, some very large, leaving their long tracks of light behind. I especially mention this to those who are studying meteor- ology, for I believe it is very uncommon for so many to be seen of such dimensions in so short a space of time. When about 600 miles from the Cape, we again saw the whale brit and large quantities of sea-weed. I made a barometer on board, which showed any disturbance in the atmosphere with such unerring certainty, and indicated it as soon as either the aneroid or quicksilver barometer, that I here give the way to make one of these chemical weather-glasses. Take a glass tube, perfectly clean, about twelve inches in length and one and a half in diameter, and stop one end with a fine clean cork. Dissolve 2 J drachms of camphor in 11 liquid drachms of alcohol, and set it aside. Put 38 grains of nitrate of potash and 38 grains of mm'iate of ammonia into 9 drachms of water, and, when perfectly dissolved, mix the two solutions together. Shake them well till thoroughly incor- porated with each other, and fill the tube with the mixture. Cork it up carefully, sealing both ends with wax, and then make a small hole in one end with a red hot needle. When the weather is clear and fine, the liquid in the tube is transpa- rent and bright ; but on the least change, the chemicals, which form a sediment in the bottom of the tube, become disturbed and rise in beautiful crystals. By watcbing it carefully a few days, when changes take place, one soon learns to graduate W On the 15th, land was descried ahead, and soon after we could make out the celebrated Table Mountain, Devil's Eock, and the Lion's Head and Rump at the Cape of Grood Hope. We ran down the coast with the current, so as to make Simon's Bay before dark. The shore is high and bold, and the waves dash madly against the rocks, throwing up the foam, so that it can be seen at a great distance. ' This kind of barometer is well known in London, and sold in scientific instru- ment and even toy shops. 36 CAPE SHEEP. [Ch. II. Simon's Bay is about twelve miles by sea from Cape Point, near the NE. corner of False Bay. It lies at the foot of Simon's Berg, one of a high ridge of mountains. Vessels that find it danger- ous to anchor in Table Bay put into Simon's Bav, which is considered perfectly safe at all seasons of the year. Ships visiting this bay can always obtain refreshments from the well- furnished stores of the town, and excellent water from the tanks. There is also a patent slip, capable of taking up vessels of 1,800 or 2,000 tons. A large square rock, called Noah's Ark, lies at the entrance of the bay ; opposite is a lighthouse, and just beyond a fortifica- tion, called the Block-house. This is mounted with a few guns ' en barbette,' and in the centre is a small circular loop-holed tower. Simon's Bay is noted for fish. Our men caught abun- dance of silver-fish, mackarel. Cape salmon, and snook. The latter is peculiar to the Cape coasts, and large quantities are salted and packed for the Mauritius market ; the vessels bring- ing back supplies of sugar. The houses are well built ; and from the Admiralty House, the residence of the Commodore commanding the Cape of Good Hope Station, a fine view is ob- tained of the shipping and harbour. Bent on seeing all there was to be seen, I left the ship, with my vasculum and a long strong stick, such as the Boers use when on a journey. I landed at the pier, and set off on foot along a fine road by the shore, towards Belvidere. Before arriving at the inn there, I met a large drove of Cape sheep led by an old ram. They came prancing down the road, their great tails swinging and bobbing about in so droll a manner that I was puzzled to know what they were, never having seen such queer animals. Instead of the ordinary caudal appendages, they have a mass of fat, sometimes over a foot square, terminated by a pointed tip, turned up. The upper side only of the tail has hair. The true Cape sheep has coarse long hair, which however becomes woolly on crossing the breed. They are rarely seen now, the farmers finding it more profitable to keep good wooUed sheep. As the breed improves, the tail gradually disappea/s. When killed, the tip is cut off and the tail split in two, salted, and dried in the wide chimneys, and makes a very good substitute for bacon ; or it is melted. Ch. II.] SUGAR BIRDS. 37 and supplies the place of butter in cookery. The tip is care- fully rendered down, and strained, when it is clear as crystal, and can be applied to any purpose for which neat's-foot oil is used. I laid in a stock of refreshments at the inn, which is kept by an Italian and his English wife. He is an old Crimean soldier, pensioned by the British Government, having been through the whole war. He gave me all the information he could respecting the natural history of the place, and accompanied me some distance, giving me advice as to taking care of myself, &c. I passed on along a pretty road still skirting the bay, and came to an open grassy spot, apparently the site of a former dwelling. There were long rows of aloes in full blossom, looking like a file of soldiers in the distance, with their bright scarlet and yellow flowers. Hovering over tliem were a number of long-tailed delicate birds. The bill is very long and curved, which they insert into the bells of the aloe, each one containing a large drop of delicious honey. They are never Geen to alight, but circle round the plant uttering a rapid twit- tering note. They are called sugar birds, and have the most brilliant plumage. The body is excessively small, but covered witli feathers of the richest scarlet, purple, and green or yellow tints, often overlaid with a golden sheen that flashes in the sun till they look like winged jewels. ^ Aloes are common all over the country, and form an article of commerce. The long, large leaves, deeply serrated and bearing a sharp spine at the point, are cut on a bright' clear day. A hole is dug near the plant and lined with maize leaves, in which the cut aloe leaves are placed. They bleed freely, and the viscous matter that flows from them very soon coagulates, when it is collected for sale. It is said to be equal to the finest soco trine aloes. From the network of the leaves I have seen very fair paper made, and the heart of the plant is as sweet as a nut, if care be taken in cutting off the leaves, which are bitter as gall. Two huge ribs of a whale were placed at each side of the road, forming an archway. Many other large bones were scattered about, this having been once a whale fishery, but now 38 A HOTTENTOT VENUS. [Ch. II. abandoned. As I ascended a little elevation I could see a number of small houses, but only two or three were occupied. As I approached, I saw a Hottentot woman washing clothes. If it be rude to stare at the fair sex, I certainly was guilty of rudeness to the last degree. I found all the descriptions I had ever heard of the Hottentot Venus beaten to fits by the reality. Cape sheep are nothing to it ! She was dressed in a skin of some animal, made very soft, and tightly drawn round her person from the waist to the knee, so that of course a perfect outline of her figure was visible. Her nude baby was lying under a tree near her, and when 1 questioned her about the place, she rose to show me the way to the principal house. She coolly shook her vestment straight, and snatched up the child, placing it on the seat nature had provided for it on its mother's haunches. As it was restless, to quiet it she lifted up her breast, which the child clutched over her shoulder, and thus took his breakfast as we went along. I never witnessed such a sight, and wished for my camera to take off the picture.^ She told me the principal person there was an old Scotch- man, called Captain John Miller, who was the pilot of the port. This place is called Allen's Point. I found the old man busy salting snook in a little outhouse. I at once told him who I was, and where from, when he quitted his work and entered into a conversation about America. I found him intelligent and he led the way to his house, where I partook of his hospitality. He showed me all over his place, and said that, with the exception of a coloured boy he was trying to bring up respectably, and teaching to read and write, there was no one else near but the Hottentot woman and her husband. He had a nice patch of vegetables near the house ; but he told me the baboons were so troublesome, they robbed him of nearly all his crops. He was determined to put a stop to their depredations, and he built a little thatched hut so as to overlook the garden, and placed a man there with a loaded gun. But they were too clever to be caught so easily. They watched the time when the man went to his dinner and down • I afterwards succeeded in getting one that will give some idea of the Indtj in question. Ch. II.] BABOONS. 39 they would come, doing endless mischief in his absence. These animals are very crafty, and when out marauding, one party is sent thieving while others are despatched to the different points commanding the situation, as scouts. The thieves devour all they can and fill their cheek pouches, and carry off as much as possible if all goes well. On the slightest appear- ance of danger, or the approach of any one, a peculiar cry is given as a warning signal, when away they scurry and it would be a fleet foot that could follow. They make for the nearest bush or kranz, where they grin down in triumphant security. To go back to my old man, who knew their cunning ways : one day when the guardian left for dinner, down they came as usual, grown bold by continued successes ; but whilst they were devouring the pumpkins the man cautiously crept back, and soon succeeded in mortally wounding a large fellow about four feet high. The scene that followed was so painful, that Capt. Miller declared he would never shoot another if they eat up all his vegetables. He describes it as exactly like a human being in the death agony. The poor thing looked up in his face so pitifully, whilst its plaintive cries asked for help as plainly as could a human voice, that he felt as if he had committed a murder. Near to his house was an eminence, where he kept a sharp look-out for vessels entering the bay. At the foot of this hill were two solitary graves ; one bore the inscription on the head- stone : JRuth Santi, October 25, 1865. The poor woman had arrived there in an emigrant vessel bound to Australia, which was obliged to put in for help, having so much sickness on board. Euth was taken on shore, but too late, and fell a victim to the dire disease, dysentery, and was buried in this lonely place. The old man warned me against the snakes, which were numer- ous, but told me that a long black serpent from six to eight feet long was considered harmless, and that they were never killed, as they preyed upon other snakes and were capital rat hunters. We went through the bush to a high bluff about three miles distant, and here we came upon a whole family party of baboons at play. The young ones were sliding down a grassy slope, rolling over like great fur balls, chattering and gam- bolling like so many boys at play ; which in the distance they 40 A NIGHT SURPRISE. [Ch. II. so greatly resembled, that I could have sworn they were children. One of the old ones was leaning on a stick watching the others. I wished for one of their thick skins to send home, but could not find the heart to shoot a baboon. The captain accompanied me some distance on my way back ; but when he left me, instead of going to Simon's town, I deter- mined to pass the night in the mountains, and branched off up one of them. I reached an elevation of about 2,000 feet, just in time to witness a beautiful sunset. A long bank of heavy black clouds in the west was illuminated, as the sun sank below the horizon, till it appeared as if lined with silver and radi- ating all the spectral colours from its edges, which changed every moment. The top of the ridge is flat table land, as smooth and grassy as a well kept lawn. It was now nearly dark, and, descending a little, I found a nice nook under a shelving rock, which I beat well with my stick to be sure there were no snake tenants ; then took off my big coat and rolled it up for a pillow, lighted my pipe, and was fixed for the night. I awoke about one o'clock much confused, either dreaming or hearing human voices. I sprang up, revolver in hand, and sallied forth. About twenty feet from me I saw some very suspicious looking people silently crossing the path : I called to them but got no answer, so fired, when a loud screeching was set up, and away they all scampered into the bush. I then found I had appropriated the bedroom of some baboon family, out for a spree, and on their return they had discovej'ed me ; and I suppose it was their vocal objections to my presence that had awakened me. It was a glorious moonlight night, so I pushed on for Simon's Bay, soliloquising as I went. From boyhood upwards I had read every book on i^frican travels, from Mungo Park to Livingstone, and had longed to tread the wilds of Africa. Well, here was my dream realised, and the place had a perfect enchantment for me. I reached the Eoyal Hotel about daybreak, and had a sound sleep while they prepared me a capital breakfast. When I called upon our consul, Mr. Graham, he had gone to Cape Town ; but a few days after he came on board, and gave Ch. II.] CAPE TOWN. 41 Captain Carter and myself an invitation to spend Christmas- day with him at Wynberg. On the 25th we left the ship, and found om* consul waiting with a carriage for us. The morning was clear and bracing, and we soon reached the sands of the beach, when lo, our noble steed protested against proceeding further. With difficulty he was coaxed on and we were obliged to Avalk along the heavy sand till we got to Ralk Bay, where the road is smooth and level and winds round the base of a mountain. Near this, on a lovely spot, stands the country house of our vice-consul Mr. Martin. We stopped there a short time, and he showed me some curious geological formations on the beach near his house. After a delightful drive, we arrived at Wynberg and had a good day of it, and a regular English Christmas dinner, and returned well pleased to the inn. I was so taken with the road, which is macadamised with stone containing iron ore in excess, and that makes it literally an iron road, that I deter- mined to go to Cape Town and up Table Mountain. The next day I drove to an hotel in Cape Town, and per- suaded my landlady to give me my breakfast over night so as to pack it in my vasculum ; starting off long before daylight, I was some way up the mountain by sunrise, and had a good view of the environs of Cape Town. The ocean was calm, the atmosphere clear ; and when about 1,200 feet up I had my breakfast, without the fear of the ' table cloth ' being let down over my head.^ By 12 o'clock I reached the Plateau, which is about two miles in length and about a mile broad. A con- stant verdure is maintained by the moisture of the atmosphere. I there collected many species of the Amaranthus for which the Cape is noted, especially the delicate pink and white ones, ' This peculiar phenomenon is called the ' Devil's Table Cloth,' and is a thin sheet of white vapour, often seen rushing over the edge of the precipice, while the entire sky is blue and serene. The rapidity of the descent resembles water pouring over the face of a rock. The air begins to be agitated in the valley, and in less than half-an-hour Cape Town is filled with dust, and the inhabitants are obliged to shut up doors and windows. The lower boundary of the cloud is regulated by the wind and temperature in Table Valley. The cloud never descends more than half way into the hot amphitheatre of Cape Town ; but on the side of Camp's Bay it may be seen rolling down in immense volumes to the sea. It has a most singular aspect ; continually rushing to a certain point, and then vanishing. Fleecy clouds are seen, torn by the winds, whirling over the town, but the main body remains fixed to the mountain. 42 TABLE BAY. [Ch. II. the large silvery white, and yellow tipped with purple. Large proteas with their pale pink petals half covered with a many-leafed calyx of white downy satin ; ericas of various hues ; the silver tree leaves [Leucadendron argenteum) and in every cleft elegant ferns. There are a good many dangerous places up the mountain ; and many persons have lost their lives when night has over- taken them, enveloped in the ' table cloth.' When descending I heard a deep growl, and, looking across a chasm, I saw a head about as large as a dog's, which I took to be a jackal's. I aimed steadily at it with my revolver, which sent a bullet crashing through the skull, when he sprang up and fell into the ravine below out of my reach. I saw a number of wild animals I did not know sitting on their haunches curiously watching me till I approached, when they would bound over the rocks or disappear in the clefts. I found afterwards they were the Dassy or Eock rabbit, I believe a true coney. They can be easily tamed when young, but are very mischievous, quite equal to a monkey in cunning and agility. All was new and curious to me, and I returned delighted with my trip in time for a late dinner at an hotel in Cape Town ; and on the following day had hastily to collect all my notes on the place, and be back in the evening, as the ' Mono- cacy' was ready for sea again. ^ Cape Town is built on a gradual slope, bounded on the NW. by Table Bay, and almost enclosed on the other sides by a cordon of mountains. The Lion's Head and Rump can be easily ascended, as their sides slope gradually and overlook a great extent of country. There is also an ascent termed the Kloof, which offers, from its scorched sides covered with the silver tree, some very lovely scenery, including the far distant Blue Berg mountains, with their snow-clad summits. From the anchorage Cape Town has a pleasing aspect, the charm of which is in no way dispelled on landing and passing up the principal thoroughfare, Adderly Street, and entering a line ' As my time was very limited, I have copied the following information from the Cape Almanac. Ch. II.] THE CAPE OBSERVATORY. 43 avenue of oaks that is a quarter of a mile long, and near which are some of the best buildings. Among the latter may be enumerated, Grovernment House, St. Greorge's Grrammar School, Public Library, Museum, &c. There are many places worth visiting, such as the Patent Slip, and Ice works, breakwater, harbour and dock works, Green and Sea Points, Bobbin Island, Infirmary, and others. It is the seat of Grovernment, the capital of the colony, and the centre of all public business. It is connected by telegraph with Port Elizabeth, Graham's Town, King William's Town, and all the principal places in the eastern districts. It ex- ports wool, copper ore, hides, horns, ivory, and ostrich feathers, to England and foreign countries ; corn, wine, and brandy, to the Eastern provinces, British Kaffraria, and Natal. Fine steamers run regularly to and from England with the monthly mails, and thus keep up a regular correspondence with the Mother-country. Two lines of railway, of about thirty miles each, branch off from the town, and fine roads scaling the loftiest heights connect it with the remoter districts. The Eoyal Observatory is about three miles from Cape Town, prettily situated, and possesses much interest. The present manager is Sir Thomas Maclear, who has made it one of the most valuable colonial institutions of the British Government. It is furnished with very superior instruments, and the clear atmosphere of the Cape fits it in a remarkable manner for astro- nomical observations. Sir Thomas has added greatly to astro- nomical and meteorological literature. A time-ball drops from the flagstaff at one r.M. Cape mean time, and a corresponding one on the Lion's Eump falls at nearly the same instant, at a point where it commands the sweep of the whole bay. There are three lights, one on Eobbin Island — a white fixed light of the first order, dioptric ; a white light of the third order, flashing at intervals of ten seconds, and can be seen thir- teen miles at sea, placed on Green Point; and a third on Mouil'le Point with a red light, fourth order. On Cape Point is an iron lighthouse, thirty feet high, having a revolving white light of the first order, visible thirty-six miles seaward. A fine breakwater is in course of construction, on the plan of that in Portland Bay, England. 44 A CAPE WAGGON. [Ch. II. In 1860, the first truckfull of stones was tripped into the sea by Prince Alfred. There are 1,820 feet completed. An inner dock is also far advanced, 1,025 feet long, by 250 and 500 broad. The whole of it has been blasted out of hard blue rock, and the stone carried into the sea for the breakwater.^ The streets are laid out at exact right angles, and, like all towns in south Africa, are wide and well kept. On account of the large waggons with their spans of twelve to fourteen oxen, there is a bye-law compelling streets to be of a certain width, to allow of room for turning the unwieldy vehicles. A Cape waggon is certainly unique in make and appearance, but admirably suited to the country roads, which frequently descend deep ravines (or kloofs, as they are here called), mount steep hills, with only a rough path cut through the bush, or ford the stony beds of rivers. There are no nails in them ; all is of the toughest wood, iron-bound, and so constructed as to yield to the exigencies of the road. The Trek-oxen are gene- rally fine animals, and a farmer takes the greatest pride in having his span of twelve well matched. Jet black, chestnut, dun with black faces, or bluish grey are the favourite colours. Every ox has a name, to which it answers at the driver's call ; or when deaf to that, he has a terrible weapon in the .whip he uses. It is of stout elastic bamboo, twenty to twenty-five feet long, with a lash of the same length tipped with afoot of leather prepared in a particular way. It is a boy's first plaything, and it is considered quite a feat to clap well — though, if the stroke is missed, the lash recoils on the unskilful wielder. The clap^ is like the report of a pistol, and a good ox won't need to feel it for he knows by experience the driver can hit the offender with unerring aim. There are three daily markets, to which all the products of the country are brought. Cape Town boasts of eight half English and Dutch newspapers, and four published entirely in Dutch. Most are ably conducted, but the rival editors carry on an unceasing war. ' The English Church is under the supervision of a bishop, with large staff of clergy. The Dutch Reformed Church has its synod there ; the London, Wesleyan, South African., and French ' Since this was written, the Breakwater has been opened for use by Prince Alfred in a late visit. * Clap is the word used instead of crack in the Cape. Ch. II.] GOVERNMENT AT THE CAPE. 45 Missionary Societies, Ebenezer, Lutheran, and Scotch Presby- terian churches, Koman Catholics, Jews, and Mohammedans, all are represented there, and disseminate their doctrines far and wide over the vast colony.' Masonry is carried on to a great extent. There are over fifty lodges and chapters of Masons and Oddfellows. Near the Parlia- ment House is the Grood Hope Lodge of Knights Templars, said to be one of the finest in the world ; built about thirty years ago ; elegantly frescoed inside — the work of an Italian artist — and it has a fine garden attached to it. The King of Holland is the Grrand Master. This institution has about 12,000^. out at interest, which is loaned to orphan children of masons, to educate them ; each child giving his individual note for the money, which becomes a debt of honour, to be paid when circumstances permit. Adjoining the Lodge is an elevated ground, used by the members for the game of golf. It is played with balls, struck through rings with shinney sticks, and the champion generally gets a prize. The museum, besides foreign objects of interest, has a fine collection of the animals and insects of the colony. In the same building is the library, containing 35,000 volumes, besides 5,000 valuable books of reference. I saw an original copy of Shakespeare, presented by Miss Burdett Coutts, which cost 716/. I think it is a pity that she did not give them the money in- stead, towards educating some of the poor children of the town. A full length portrait of Prince Alfred adorns the library. I was greatly amused at the signboards in the streets, which bore the drollest names, one especially with Mr. and Mrs. Death on it. Sir P. E. Woodhouse is the present Grovernor, and Sir E. P. Douglas, Bart., Lieutenant-Governor and commander of the forces. ' The colony is ruled by an Executive Council of five members, the Chief Judge presiding ; a Legislative Council of twenty-one members chosen for ten years, the Grovernor its President ; and a House of Assembly of sixty-six members, re- presenting the country districts, elected every five years, and led by a speaker — the same as in the English House of Commons.' A fine portrait of Sir Gr. Darling — a former Governor — is hung in the Hall of Assembly. |6 DUTCH BOERS. [Ch. II. The former feeling of ill-will between the Dutch and English has nearly died out in Cape Town, and is so greatly modified in the provinces it is rarely met with ; indeed, the young Dutch- man's greatest pride is to speak English well, and be dressed English fashion. The Dutch language in Cape Town, where spoken, is high Dutch, but in the remoter districts it is a vile mixture of low Dutch, Hottentot, and bad English. From what I saw. Queen Victoria has few more loyal subjects than the descendants of the former possessors of the Cape of Good Hope. They are noted for hospitality, and as to the cleanliness and order of the houses of the Dutch, I cannot speak too highly in praise of them. It is rare to see near the capital one of the true race of Boers, which, for the benefit of my friends, allow me to say, does not mean a rude churl, as with us, but merely a country farmer. The Boer proper is almost extinct. Occasionally may be seen men of athletic make, over six feet, dressed in moleskin pants, and short round jackets, a felt high-crowned hat, and velt schoons or shoes of undressed leather ; accompanied by wife and children of all ages, in short skimp skirts, little round capes or kerchiefs, and monstrous cappies {anglice poke bonnets), quilted, with a deep curtain to them, and a bunch of faded artificial roses pinned on top. They are a nineteenth- century wonder, and take you back to the early days of New York, till you fancy it is Eip van Winkle in 'propria persona, risen again after another 200 years' sleep. He certainly could not look more astonished at the progress of the present day, than an up-country Boer does at the various articles for luxury or comfort displayed in an English shop, when he condescends to visit one. A curious story was told me of one of these old men, who was blest with several stalwart sons, all expert enough in plough- ing, sowing, or reaping, but who knew little else than these arts. Some trader visited the far away farm, and told marvellous tales of the outer world, and advised the father to let his sons travel. The idea worked in his brain, but took long to develop. One day, greatly to his eldest son's astonishment, he told him to go to a neighbour's farm for a month, and amuse himself and see all he could of the world ! and away went Jan well pleased. On the trader's retm-n the old man told him he had Ch. II.] WYNBERG. 47 followed his counsels, and sent his son to see the world. This aroused the man's curiosity, so he asked him to what country he had packed him off so soon, and if it had not been a great grief to part from him. ' Ach mein Grott, yah, but I think it will be for the lad's benefit to see the world, so sent him to Mynheir van Zwartes', twenty miles off, and told him to stop a month and see all he could ! ' I bid farewell to Cape Town about eight o'clock ; and as I had sent on my carpet bag &c. by the mail cart, I set off on foot anxious to see some of the places on the road to Simon's Bay. I passed the observatory, but had not time to stop there, and went on to Wynberg, where I saw the establishment of Plumstead, formerly belonging to a Mr. Batts, an Englishman. He had laid out 150 acres in splendid gardens, with fine avenues of oak and other trees ; and the houses must once have been handsome, but are now in ruins. He died in 1833, and, as is a common custom in the Cape, lies buried on the property, under a handsome monument of Sicilian marble, on each side of which are inscriptions from the Song of Solomon in letters of gold, but it is rapidly going to decay, and is half hidden in weeds and shrubs. I saw some fine fields of tobacco, which is very largely culti- vated. Great quantities of Cavendish, cigars, and cut tobacco are exported. The mulberry tree grows to a great size, and latterly silk cultivation is going on. The samples produced are very fine, and it has been found that the wild mulberry {Morns latifolia) is equally as good for the food of the silk- worm, as the true mulberry, and of much more rapid and easy growth. From the numerous vineyards, I could have fancied myself in the south of France. The lovely village of Constantia lies in this neighbourhood, famous for its delicious Constantia and Pontac wines, which, to be thoroughly appreciated, should be drunk on the spot. Wynberg is fourteen miles from Cape Town, and is the terminus of one branch of the railway. I passed through Clermont, Mowbray, and other pretty villages, all of which had an air of neatness and comfort quite refresh- ing to see. At Eondebosch is the country seat of the Grovernor, a well wooded and cultivated demesne. E y 48 FLORA OF THE CAPE. [Ch. II. I arrived in Ealk Bay, hot and tired, but got a comfortable little dinner at an English hotel. This is a famous watering- place for the gentry, who in the summer months avail themselves of the cool sea-breezes and bathing. It is a pretty little tree-embowered village, close to the bay, and can boast of some good houses and an English church. I saw there some of the pretty girls the Cape is famous for ; and in dress they were no way behind the mother-country in elegance and fashion. After a rest I pushed on for Simon's Bay, passing several fishing villages, and enjoyed immensely the sea-breeze that tempered the midsummer heat, as I kept along the shore. I reached Simon's Town just after dark, and at once took a boat and went on board, where I found all ready for departure, and next morning we slowly steamed out of the bay. I should have liked greatly to have extended my stay in the Cape to botanise in some of the districts. The descriptions I had of them making me long to prove them realities. Though some parts are sterile enough, others are strewn with the loveliest flowers. The Ericas must be seen in their rocky beds to be appreciated, particularly the scarlet one with its bells an inch long. It is the native land of the Griadiola, and in some places they literally cover acres of ground. Its lilies, from the purest white, through all the shades of pink, to the deepest crimson ; the large blue and white lotus blossoms floating over the rivers, orchidese, gesnerias, geraniums, especially the large ivy-leafed species ; jessamines of countless varieties, the ritje peren, equal to the finest tuberose, clematis, bignonias, and thousands of others of earth's loveliest children, bewilder one with their beauty and perfume. I saw air plants from the distant Greorge District, of the species called the elephant's foot, with its clusters of pale green leaves and pinkish blossoms, and one about the size of a cricket ball; in a dry vase on a lady's mantlepiece. It had shot out delicate stems and leaves till it reached the ceiling, and she had trained it like an espalier fruit tree, and it was just showing bunches of pretty lilac flowers. But I could not describe half I saw and heard of. As I stood looking back at the town, I felt regret at leaving it, for I had received much kindness and hospitality, and I hoped one day to revisit its shores. / Ch. II.] A STORM. 49 On the 28th the barometers fell ; the weather changed and it became thick and cloudy towards sunset, with a heavy swell on the sea. After dark the wind rose, and by midnight it was blowing a gale, and the waves broke over the hurricane deck with such fury that it was with difficulty the vessel could make way against them. Towards morning the storm abated, and then we had a few days tolerably fair weather, till January 6, when the sky became gloomy, dark, and threatening ; clouds passed swiftly to the north, the sea rose, and the ship rolled heavily- and there were all the symptoms of an approaching storm of no ordinary force. The night fully justified our fears. Heavy blasts of wind, straight descending torrents of rain, lightnings forked and sheet, the creaking of the ship's timbers, the few sails set torn to ribbons and flapping loose, the thundering noise of the tremendous waves as they neared us, each one threatening to engulf our vessel — made up a wild and fearful spectacle, but yet grand and sublime in its very wildness. The men worked hard at repairing and bending the storm sails, and standing by the pumps knee-deep in the water that washed unceasingly over the decks. Daylight showed us the extent of our damages. The paddle- boxes were injured ; the round-houses smashed in and washed away ; the rail forward stove in, and the one-inch iron plates were bent double. The ring-bolts to which the heavy guns were secured started from the deck, and the guns threatened with each roll to break adrift from their lashing's. A temporary lull gave time for a few repairs ; and we hoped for a change of weather, as the five hours' rain had beaten down the sea considerably. Towards evening, however, the tempest recommenced. A red lurid light spread all over the sky ; and, shortly after the setting of the sun, the ocean rose again furiously, and announced its fresh vigour by breaking over our starboaixi, washing and sweeping away all before it, tearing away the gratings of the hatches, breaking the after skylight, and rush- ing down into cabins and wardroom, floating everything and drenching everybody. The wheel-ropes were carried away, and the ship, paying off before the wind, became unmanageable. The guys of the smoke-stack broke, and it was feared we should have the whole mass of iron descending on us, when a general so CYCLONES. [Ch. II. smash would have taken place. The ship coming to again, filled her decks with water, and leaning over to port, remained so long in that position that the stoutest heart quailed, and anxiously counted the seconds, till at last she gallantly rose again on the crest of a wave. Luckily the sea had stove in the lower ports, so that the immense quantity of water found a ready egress from the deck, and the vessel, lightened of the weight, rolled less. New wheel- ropes were rove, and the storm having exhausted its fury, by daylight it was greatly abated, and the sun rose red and gloriously. It was a dismal scene old Sol shone down on, but the puffing and snorting of the powerful engine showed that her working gear was uninjured ; and the good ship, so severely tried, sped onward gracefully, throwing the splashing glittering spray from her bows back into the conquered ocean. Eeflecting calmly on these past dangers, I cannot omit to render thanks, next to God, to the cool and steady bravery in the hour of peril of our gallant commander and to many of the officers and crew of the ' Monocacy,' for safe delivery out of one of those terrible cyclones that occur in the South Indian Ocean. Deeply interested in the laws of storms, I succeeded, by careful observations of the barometers and thermometer, no- ticing the changes of wind and temperature, and the rising and setting of the storm-wave, in ascertaining pretty correctly the centre of the hurricane, and reduced the aforesaid changes of wind and weather to the rules laid down by Messrs. Piddington and Eedfield in their admirable treatise on the laws of storms. The officers of the vessel kindly supplied me with a copy of the log, which greatly aided me in tracing the cyclone home to its vortex. Taking a scientific view of hurricanes and cyclones and the management of vessels therein, it is clear that there are three ways of managing a ship in, or at the appearance of, a cyclone. First, in order to avoid the same, (in case there is plenty of sea room) the vessel should be hove to on the proper tack ; secondly, if a ship is caught inside of a storm-disc, the only changes to be adopted are, running before the wind, or heaving the ship to ; and the latter, when, on account of the high or cross seas, the safety of the ship is endangered, the only course Ch. II.] THEORY OF STORM CENTRES. 51 left is to run before the wind in a tangent direction towards the inner storm-disc, and then gradually to edge off to the outer limits of the cyclone ; and, lastly, by running on the outside of the wind's circle, and even profiting by it. But the question is how to know the approach of a cyclone, and how to find the proper bearings of its centre. Considering- then every cyclone as a great whirlwind, the direction of every wind is rotary, of which the outer part is a common close- reefed topsail breeze, such as no good seaman cares for, and by which no seaworthy ship is injured. The violence of the wind increases with great rapidity as the centre is approached, till close to, or in it, when it becomes of a destructive fury. Even if this centre should have a diameter of fifty or sixty miles, round which the storm is revolving, the first care must be to ascertain how this point or centre bears, in order to guide future manoeuvres. Now as the 'Monocacy' on January 6 was, according to her log, in lat. 32. 15 S. and long. 47. 45 E., with the wind marked as ESE., the centre of every common wind would lay, according to proved and established rules of storms, to the E. by N. or ENE. In the remarks in the log it is said, ' Clouds accumulating, cloudy and damp, moderate breeze from SE. by E., sent up fore topmast ; from 4 to 6, squally and damp, heavy swell from SE. by E., light winds ; 6 p.m., a drizzling rain.' But with all these clouds and dampness, we find the state of the barometer as shown in the diagram, stating the position of the ship and centre bearings : the storm-disc, with its hourly changing tangent angles, is named a moderate gale, the outside circle of a hurricane, accompanied by a slightly disturbed sur- rounding atmosphere. The greatest signs of an approaching cyclone are the oscilla- tions in barometer and sympiesometer, more especially a high barometer with gloomy threatening weather. In the trades or monsoons this is always a sure sign of a coming tempest. The question naturally arises, Can the barometer assist in forming an approximative estimate of the ship's dis- tance from the centre ? On first consideration, it is evident that there are very great differences in the fall and rise of the barometer and sympiesometer in various storms, though they may be all true cyclones. Consequently, the variations of these 52 EASTWARD BOUND, [Ch. II. instruments may very often mislead, but the shortness of time in which these changes happen is enough to make even the most careless seaman understand the danger and close approxi- mation of the destructive centre. The accompanying diagram shows the height and hourly change of both instruments, and the distance from the centre is worked out according to Mr. Piddington's rules. Certainly these calculations can only be made approximatively, but coming so near the truth that we may consider the result to be the true centre. In the Southern Indian Ocean the rate of travelling of a hurricane may be stated to be little more than nine or ten miles per hour, and especially in the meridian between Mauritius and Madagascar the rate rarely exceeds eight ; so it is evident from the little progress the ' Monocacy ' made against a head wind and sea, the course to the N. and E. brought her nearer to the focus. The weather during the following days showed no material alteration. I found the oscillations of the mercurial barometer and the vibrations of the aneroid very strongly marked, which are common signs during a cyclone. On January 7 the water changed to a dark brown colour, and the sea was running furiously. On the 8th, the storm having passed, no material danger threatened, and the barometer kept unusually high, and the sky wore a brighter appearance than ordinary. The air was charged with a great amount of electricity, and incessant tliunder and lightning were the consequences. Before I con- clude this description, I will add a word or two as to one of the supposed origins of Cyclones. It appears to me that a simply flattened spiral stream of electric fluid generates above, and, expanding in a broad disc, may amply account for the commencement of a cyclone, by its descending to the surface of the earth ; and that likewise its onward motion, in such a direction as the laws of force and gravity drive it, may account for its continuance, and the oppression and exhaustion of its force for its termination. The unequal motion is naturally the consequence of one side of the disc being more flattened, and causing the cyclone to advance more rapidly. The descent or settling down of Bcuromeder 28.5=14548^ ^ce orresislance orEUctric rUdd ^1 Citb}.c root' 0-734S6 -5-4-37. MecL-Ts ofUlectTi^ //a^ 2S-15 Sym.0076. B \ Barometer 2 9.8^^UJ4?,9. ^orce ofre6ist''f 0. 73S83 C \Baro TneCer 3ami^3766 - ^.^ \ Force^ of Resist*^ 0.87Z.76 \) \Baromet€r 3 0.5^i_4MW J'orce of Jlesf'^t'^ 0.89763 y^^aromS3a7-U87. Ch. IL] storm chart. 53 cyclones has in numerous cases been proved. The appearance of the vortices of violent tornadoes within the body of great storms is not unfrequent or new. When about 400 miles from Mauritius, the sea was full of a floating mass of matter resembling brown Ectocarpi. It was very difficult to get up in a bucket. A few days later I saw much other matter floating about, of a gelatinous nature ; the old sailors said it is frequently seen after tropical storms. It appears of the confervoid family. By the night of the llth, we neared the Eound and Flat Islands, two apparently barren rocks, adjacent to the Mauritius ; and little sleep was there on board, all being anxious to gain port again, after our long voyage. Description of the Storm Chart The cords a a, B B, c c, d d, e e, f F, are the different currents of air, arranged according to their intensity; the logarithm annexed to the barometer-stand, is likewise the logarithm for the base of the triangle, a B c, which is formed by the descend- ing electric fluid ; the perpendicular erected on the surface of the globe, and the barometer-stand 29*8, or each following barometer-stand of decreasing intensity, necessarily increase the base, perpendicular and hypothenuse, but always keep in the same proportion to one another. The question how to find the angle B, the resisting force created by the pressure of the air, is solved by the following proposition : as base is to radius, so is the hypothenuse to sine of angle b, which increases propor- tionately with the base, and vice versa. The atmosphere surrounding the earth creates a refraction of the electric fluid, similar to the refraction of the rays of light, and calculated on the same principle, but in this case always considering 29*15 as the mean of the intensity of the electric fluid ; the rotation of the earth gives to the fluid a circular motion, and creates there- by, in opposite hemispheres, a reverse action, but forms at the same time a set of air currents, which are but the cotangents to the different storm-discs. The only variations in the calculations that can arise, are those occasioned by local prevailing winds, and the air-currents Prepared for h'kes Sibb-'lropCcal F.r'thUs. rabUshedbji Sampson, Lm;MarfU>n,, Low, &SearUi Oowrc tlui/di/wa, 188 Fleet, Str^ l.uivdorv. 54 RATE OF STORM TRAVELLING, [Ch. II. that are thereby formed. But when, as in this case, the local prevailing winds are ' trade winds ' or monsoons, the angle thereby occasioned can almost be guessed, within 10 or 12 degrees ; and as the force of the wind acting upon the fluid is counteracted by its own spiral motion, the error in the calcula- tion will be so slight that we may readily take the result for the true deviation of the fluid, and the veritable rate of the travelling of the cyclone. The electric fluid descending is represented in the same angle, as careful researches in the log of the U. S. steamer ' Monocacy ' proved it to be on January 5, 6, and 7, 1867. The circles marked with arrows are the tracks of the cyclone extending from lat. 36 to 20 S., and covering an extent of from 40 to 45 degrees of longitude. The rate of the cyclone's travelling may be estimated at seven miles per hour, and the situation of the vortex in 57. 30 E. long., and lat. 27. 14 S. .ox •a ^ v.. T, ^ ^^., ^^^^^^^^j MAI' shewintf the position of the United States Steam frigalx> 'MONOCACY' in the South Indian Oceaji , during the CYCLONE of the 5* 6* 7*^ & S^ January, 18R7 ^ ^ 13y Mciiolas fike, United Slates Consul, Tort Xouis, Mauritius. . 'refa"J, /br Pike's Sub-HvpuxdHumhles Edfi^yfelleL-.COw- ffinZ J