CENTRAL 
 
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 S5S 
 
 A SUNIR IN CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 The Record ol a trip to tDe M of Ndnana written 
 by members o( the party 
 
 Copyright Applied For, 1915. 
 
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 MAR 19191b 
 
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TABLE OF CONTEIMTS 
 
 CHAPTER I Introduction 
 
 CHAPTER n To the Land of Manana 
 
 CHAPTER HI Toledo, Its Interests and Activities 
 
 CHAPTER IV Sight-seeing In British Honduras and Guatemala 
 
 CHAPTER V Camping on the Coral Cays 
 
 CHAPTER VI Foolish Fantasies 
 
 CHAPTER VII Homeward Bound 
 

 Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2010 with funding from 
 The Library of Congress 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/summerincentralaOOpula 
 
CHAPTER I 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 Are these adventures, as recorded by different members of our party 
 and assembled here, worth preserving? At least, they are worth 
 something to those of us who experienced them, though no dcubt our 
 powers pf description will fall short of picturing to others our ad- 
 ventures in Central America. This record, with the pictures we 
 have taken, will serve as a memory book of our trip, "Lest we for- 
 get," which is far from likely. 
 
 The sleepy-eyed party which met at the station in Pulaski, Tennes- 
 see, at four o'ci ck Monday morning, June 1st, 1914, hardly looked 
 the part of the gay adventurers which we were; but as the day wore 
 on in the stuffy, smoky Pullman, there was no lack of t^pirits evi- 
 denced. Time was divided equally between hot, sticky naps, much 
 contested games of Rook, and that ever popultr past time, eating. 
 We were almost hilarious whf n we reached New Orleans at nine that 
 night, took taxis to the Hotel Monteleone, and then turned out for 
 a late supper at Fabisher's. On our return to the hotel we met in one 
 of the rof ms ard proceeded to Fettle up our accounts, which were 
 badly mixed. as the "professor", Mr. Eagle, had been cashier for the 
 crowd all day, which position he was unanimcusly elected to hold 
 throughout the trip. 
 
 We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in quaint old New Orleans where 
 we spent three days sight-seeing and shopping, each one employing 
 his time in accordance with his individual tastes. The mentioning 
 of individual tastes is a reminder that the dramatis* personae of our 
 party should here be introduced. 
 
 DRAMATIS PERSONAE 
 
 First, there was Auntie Moore, an excellent chaperone, noted for her 
 industrious knitting and her great hardihood as a traveler. 
 
 Miss Mason, who was responsible for m.ost of us having the trip. 
 • was the center interest of the party, and we turned to Maria on all 
 occasions for the advice which she gladlv furnished "free gratis for 
 nothing without any charge at all." 
 
 Next in importance was Lois Pearce, who proved herself an inter- 
 esting and efficient hostess. 
 
 Levi Pearce, well, he was just Levi, in a class all by himself. There 
 never wis another like him. 
 
 Douglas and Anita Moore completed the list of the home-going 
 p&rty, the balance of us being guests. Douglas was noted for his 
 ability to play Rook without scrapping, and Anita for her good looks 
 and winning disposition. 
 
 Among the guests we had Miss Julia Sweet Chester, (with the sc- 
 cent on the Sweet,) whose theory r.f life was that an ounce of chloro* 
 tone was worth a pound of seasickness. 
 
 Then we must not forget Marvin Eagle (no danger if his laugh 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 was within hearing distance) who was a native of "The Blue Ridge 
 Mountains of Virginia" and a follower of "The. Trail of the Lonesome 
 Pine." 
 
 Dowden Cannon was the junior meniber of the party, and fre- 
 quently. acted in a manner to justify the title. 
 
 Miss Jimmie Clyde Hartley, who was going to visit her sister, Mrs. 
 Jamie Mason, joined us in New Orleans, and through her we became 
 fully acquainted with "Titta" before we had the pleasure of meeting 
 that lady. 
 
 List (but not least in her own estima'-i^n) vvi? Catierine Clark, or 
 "Catsev." 
 
 CHAPTER li 
 TOIHELANDOF MANANA. 
 
 Since none of our friends weie in New Orleans to see us off, there 
 was no sad parting scene for any member <jf our party when we went 
 aboard the steamer. The four days spent on the Gulf of Mexico and 
 the LaiibbeanSea were enjoyed to different degrees by various 
 ones; Jfowover, not a member of our party was en^^irely seasick, though 
 Julia Chester, thinking to ward off this dread malady, dosed plentifully 
 on chlorotone, with the result that she became seasick in New Or- 
 leans, and did not fully recover from the effects of the drug for ten 
 days. And since then she has maintained a dignified silence in re- 
 gard to her former favorite quotation, "An ounce of prevention is 
 worth a pound of cure," But there was, as u-ual,. the silver lining 
 to the dark cloud — in, this.. ca>e it was a very attractive ship doctor, 
 who had much solicitude" fof folks with "severe headaches." The 
 balance of p.ur party, being disgustingly healthy, attracted no profes- 
 .<5ional attention from this young doctor, though the kodak has various 
 stories to relate, in which he might be considered the hero. The kodak 
 also made amusing records f)f us climbing the rigging and posing 
 as jaunty sailors. 
 
 The boat on which we made our trip was the Coppename. owned by 
 the Lnited Fruit (Company, whu practically controls all the passenger 
 b-^iats running to and from t'entia! America. As part of "The Great 
 White Fleet," the boat was immaculate, and we certainly enjoyed a 
 great many conveniences on it. The pantry seamed to be open at 
 all hours of the day and night to hungry passengers, and th^- fare was 
 excellent. We really wondered how the Company could afforii to set 
 fio good a table and feed the pas^e^gers between meals, too. On ask- 
 ing the pur.-cr about it, (for more about the purser, see Lois Pearce), 
 he explained in a few words fhat generally most of the passengers 
 were below and didn't require f»^eding. It wa^ a comf< rt to real-ze 
 that this propperous Company made nothing off of us during the trip. 
 
 The time on the boat passed only too quickly. There were si many 
 interesting things to r.ee and we enjoyed esp -cially the nights. ft)r we 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 had a full rr.oon. Some of our party sitting at the Captain's table 
 seemed to imi-ress him favorably and he allowed us to take an obser- 
 vation with the sextant an J locate our course on a very interesting 
 chart. We went twelve and a half degrees east of due south from 
 New Orleans, then rounded the point ot Yucatan and went on down 
 below the City of Belize, v/h^re we took on a native pilot who steered 
 us by a winding course up through the narrow channel of the Bay of 
 Belize. 
 
 • There Vvere a great many interesting people on the boat, among 
 them Senor Pontecarta Bonilla, bound for Spanish Honduras, of which 
 country he wss an exiled ex- president, returning after an absence of 
 six years. Several ambassadors and consuls were ^on board, among 
 them Mr. J. A. Gamon, a young man from Chicago, who was going 
 down to Puerta Cortez as United States Consul, and Senbr A. Vivas 
 who had been repret^enting Nicaragua in San Francisco. We were 
 especially interested in Mr. J. W. Barnett, a young mining engineer, 
 who was taking his three-vear-old son down to the almost inaccessible 
 mountains of Spanish Honduras for a two years' stay. 
 
 The sea was calm and peaceful until our third night but; from New. 
 Orleans, when there can:e what seemed to us a genuine storm, al- 
 though it was called "a little squall" by those more accustomed to 
 the sea. However, it sent a number of people hurrying, from the 
 deck down to their berths, where they stayed until the next day at 
 noon, when we anchored at Belize. But in spite of the bad weather, 
 it proved to be with some of us as it was with Jonah — "You can't 
 keep a good man do«vn." and W€ persisted both in staying up on dpck 
 and occupying our accostomed places at meal ^ime. However, about 
 half of the passengers seemed to have suddenly- lost their apetites. 
 Sunday morning, after the squall had considerably abated, some of us 
 went 'nto the bow to watch the ship plowing through the waves. 
 The girls being unable to hold their hair in conventional restraint 
 took it d'^wn and let the salt-laden wind sport with it in mermaid 
 style, much to the apparent enjoyment of the participants iand the dis- 
 gust of the spectators. 
 
 THliOUGH CUSTOM.S AT BELIZE 
 
 The landing at Belize about noon Sunday was unusually interesting. 
 There was quite a bit of formality and red tape which we- thought 
 foolish, but who should question the ways of inspectors and customs 
 officers of the British fcCmpire? Since B-^lize has no dock, we anchor- 
 ed well out in the bay, where we waited for the official doctor to 
 board the ship and give us an exaniination previous to landing With 
 this quarantine doctor, (who was an Wast Indian Cloolie".- a "gentleman 
 of color"), came several Colonial soldiers of uhe same nationality and 
 bhade, heavily armed. The formal examination -lorisisted simply of 
 asking us our names and saying "pass." (He didn't even ask us to 
 stick out our tongues, though we would gladly have stuck .^them out 
 at him'.) .■'.;■";. v--;: 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 After we had passed this very trying (?) ordeal, we w«re allowed 
 to board one of the waitinj? muLor boats, on whic;. we found Mr. Ma- 
 bon Moore and Dr. Wilbur Pearce, of whom more later. Meantime 
 our baggage had been loaded on the motor boat, c^nd we were ready 
 to go ashore, where Mrs. lev! Fearce an.1 Harry Francis awaited us. 
 
 Then came the farce nf getting our baggage through customs. 
 Each of us unlocked our trunks, and a young in.^pector poked ginger- 
 ly with one finger into the corners, neglected entirely to ask us if we 
 had anything to declare, a-id passed on to the next trunk. Our suit- 
 cases were searched in the same manner. 
 
 After clearing our baggage we went to the International fJotel, 
 where we were a-sigm^d rooms and remained until next morning. 
 
 Miss Chester was taken immediately to a doctor, who gave her some 
 medicine to relieve the headache and dizziness from which she had 
 been suffering throuyrhout the trip, and wa were all very glad to see 
 her bette/ and able to share our enjoyment. We rested during the 
 aftprnonn going for a long wa'k after supper, and then to the Metho- 
 dist Chuich ft r the regular Sunday evening serv'ce We were sur- 
 prised to see the congregation compjsed entirely of black oeople, 
 some of whom slept serenely throughout the sermon. The pastor was 
 an intelligent young Englishman, with an effective and interesting 
 sermon. 
 
 EN ROUTE TO THE AMERICAN SETTLEMENT 
 
 We took an early start at shopping the next morning, and had quite 
 an interesting time, as the stores were unusually aitriiclive and iha 
 merchandise seemed very cheap to us. Doubtless we could have 
 bought more there, were it not for the duty assessed by the States on 
 goods imported. 
 
 After we had finished shopping that morning we went down to the 
 Belize River and b tarded the Hornet, which lay reaJv to take us to 
 Punfa (lorda. We made fine lime.— a trip ot one hunlre:! and twen- 
 ty-five miles in fifteen hours. All day long we lay about on the deck 
 and in the cabin eating and resting. Near evening Mr. Moore made 
 ua a nice stew of potatoes, ham, ric^ and plaimain, to which wa all did 
 full justice. Later on we sat in the bow and watched the phosphores- 
 cence In the water and the rocking and swinging of the sails as the 
 sea grew rougher. We .'>ang until we were hoarse. We seemed to 
 know a great many of the same songs and how we did enjoy singing 
 them. Some seemed to find more enjoyment in sitting and listening 
 while the others sang. Our party was not alone on the boat. The 
 second-class passengers lay around promiscu.)usly and Mr. Eagle, in 
 wandering around, st^-pped on one of them who lay peacefully sleep- 
 ing, wrapped in a sail. A grewsome occupant of the second-chss 
 cabin was a Spanish consumptive who coughed all night. The women 
 and children of our party spent the night in the first-class cabin, where 
 there were seats on two side^ and a swinginl^• bed in the end with a 
 bunk below. These, with a pallet on the floor, completed the 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 > sleeping accomodations for ten wome« and children. 
 
 Few of us slept the early part of the night, however, preferring to 
 .staj' out on the moonlit deck and watch the Hornet plough through 
 the waves. It seemed so wonderful to be on the Bay of Honduras at 
 night, with beautiful mountains on one side and cays of coral on the 
 other, which the lightning revealed with a strangely alluring glare. 
 At one a m. Tuesday morning. June 9th we anchored at Cattje 
 i Landing* a little north of Punta Gorda; and we all rejoiced with 
 , Lois that we were so near her home. We were near and yet far, as 
 we did not get out to Fair View, the Pearce home, until noon 
 that day. For just as the Hornet anchored, a terrible storm began 
 and we could hear the rain beating on the palms along the shore while 
 it came down on us in sheets, accompanied by the glare of lightning 
 and the loua peals of thunder. As a part of the door framing was 
 torn away, the water began pouiing into our cabin, where some of the 
 . party lay stretched on the floor. , It was then that we learned the 
 staff that Mrs. Pearce wi.s made of. While the rain poured in, she. 
 with the help of AunJe Moore and Maria, mopped it up and bailed it 
 out. In addition to stopping the flow of water, Mrs. Pean-.f spent 
 much time trying to pacify an irritated black puppy, which was be- 
 1 jng taken to Rev. and Mrs. Heyworth. Mrs. Pearce made repeated 
 efforts to feed him with a spoon of condensed milk diluted with wa- 
 , ter: but he was so little that he, didn't know how to drink it. 
 
 All this time it was lightning and thundering, the dog was howl- 
 . ing, the consumptive coughing, and it was both scary and funny. It 
 was an exciting night, and the pup was, not alone nor least in voicing 
 , his feelings. 
 
 The boys got in a dory and paddled over to the Swan, a motor boat 
 . which was anchored nearby, to sleep. There they got thoroughly 
 soaked before morning, even though they slept in rain coats. 
 
 Theri- was still such a do.^npour at daybreak, that, although the 
 shore was very close, only the bravest w ;nt forth in a dory, leaving 
 the others on beard until the weather cleared up, v/hen they went 
 ashore also. 
 
 As the weather was so bad, horses were not sent for us, but we rode 
 out to Fairview on the big ox-wagon which had been ,ient down for 
 our baggage and the ride was quite a treat to those who had not rid- 
 den that way before. It was a happy crowd that rode up to meet 
 Mr. Pearce waiting for us on the porch at Fairview. 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 TOLEDO, ITS INTERESTS AND ACTIVITIES 
 
 The Pearce home is a large white frame building trimmed in green, 
 having galleries running the enJre length of the house upstairs and 
 down. There are fifteen large airy rooms, each with several expos- 
 ures, cooled by the alternating land oreezes and sea breezes of the 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 trade winds. The house is well fitted with racdern conveniences, such 
 as plunnbing, telephone, acetyU ne lights, and other improvements 
 which are still considered luxuries in many parts of the States. The 
 house is cover'^d with a tin roof, from which the rain water drains 
 into five large tanks, each holding an average of two thousand qrallons, 
 the sole water supply of the household. The boys of the Pearce fam- 
 ily fixed up the tanks and made the connections, and it is an ideal ar- 
 rangement for that locality. We simply reveled in drinking and bath- 
 ing in pure rain water. 
 
 The dininir ronm at Fairview is cheerful and airy, with a big table 
 running aln^.ost the full length oi the room. The number at the ta- 
 ble varies from fifteen to twenty; and one would think from the 
 amount of food on the table at each meal that plans had leen made to 
 serve twice that number. 
 
 THE SETTLERS 
 
 We might Ptop here and tell about those members of the famijy 
 whom we met after our arrival. "Uncle Levi" or Mr. Pearce. is 
 big and jolly, full of life and good cheer. He likes for every one 
 around him to be happy, and always has a large share in creating en- 
 joyment. 
 
 Mr-J. Pearce is small, but has such energy and power of rule as or 
 dinarily go with a large body. She shows her ability daily in the 
 management of her large household. 
 
 Bennett, the oldest son, has a large part in the conductinc of his 
 father's various interests. He is quiet, but capable and reliable for 
 every emergency. 
 
 Lawson, a married son who lives at home, is quite argumentative, 
 and if he thinks he can woiry anyone, woe unto that one! But he is 
 so kind and wi ling to help that no one minds askin? his adi'ice about 
 anything— even to the proper treatment of r^d-bug bites. 
 
 Lawson's wife, Sadie, is a sweet-natured woman, a good friend tc 
 everybody. Little Ella, the baby, is the pet of the house, and can 
 get almost anything she wants. However, if she rules the roost with 
 too high a hand, she get« a ducking! 
 
 Mis.s Sadie's aunt, Miss Chess Mason, was a visitor at Fairview at 
 the time of our arrival. She is very much like her niece in her quiet, 
 pleasant wavs. 
 
 Harry Francis, the youngest of the Pearce family, is eight years old, 
 and feels his importance already. He is a bright, wide awake little 
 Rook fiend. 
 
 Mr. Mason Moore, Mrs Pearce's brother, always comes in at just 
 the right time. "Uncle" Mason is a Jack-of-all trades, and master 
 of many, being able to shoe both horses and folks, do all kinds of me- 
 chanical work, cook, doctor, nurse the baby, and do many other 
 things th'at would not be expected of any one man. 
 
 Mr Charlie Moore. Uncle Mason'" brother, was helping him run 
 Mr. Pearce's sugar plantation, and they spent the greater part cf 
 their time at Fairview instead of Westmoreland, their own home. 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 Mr. Charlie was very accommodating and made the finest kind of 
 an escort. He also gave lessons in horseback riding. (See Miss 
 Chester for recommendations.) 
 
 Two nephews of Mr. Pearce, "Judge" Magruder Pearce and Dr. 
 Wilbur Pearce, deserve special mention as they had a large share in 
 making our summer a pleasant one. "The Judge" was formerly a 
 lawyer in the States but "the call of the wild" was too great so he 
 returned home where he seems perfectly happy, especially when 
 "Aunt Jimmy" is visiting "Titta." 
 
 Dr. Wilbur Pearce is all right, "YOU BET!" 
 
 There are a number of hospitable people in the American settlement 
 who seemed glad to have strangers within their gates. We were all 
 glad to meft Jamie Mason, Ma^-ia's brother, and his wife, Eula, and 
 their two attractive children, James and Eula Clyde. We really felt, 
 however, that we knew them before we met thera We tciok a great 
 fancy to another family of the P.arce connecticn,Mr Lee Pearce.a broth- 
 er to "Doc" and "Judge, "and his wife and little boy, L. H. We were 
 already acquainted with Mrs. Tom Moore Bud her youngest sor, Wal- 
 lace, through their stay in Pula&ki. and we were very glad to see 
 their familiar faces again. Mr. Tom koore, with his hearty laugh 
 and pleasant ways, seemed like an old friend, too. 
 
 An almost indispensable addition to the commnity is Miss Hannah 
 Halliday, whose life of service for others endears her to all. Miss 
 Hannah is a t»-ained nurse by professiim. but for general helpfulness 
 she could not be limited to any one profession. 
 
 We were pleasantly entertained during our visit by Mr. and Mrs. 
 Eugene Lester, likewise by Mr. and Mrs. Joe Lester, whose daugh- 
 ters, Alma and Ruth, w«!re with rs frequently. Added to our list of 
 Central American friends are Rev. and Mrs. Percy Hey worth, pleasant 
 young English people who are in charge of the W*^sleyan Chi rch at To- 
 ledo Settlement. It is an attractive little church, and we all greatly 
 enjoyed attending it We were veiy glad to meet Mr. and Mrs. 
 Braithwaite, and subsequently there will be an account of a visit to 
 their interesting home at Seven Hills. 
 
 NATIVE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 
 
 We enjoyed so much the native fruits with which we were familiar 
 before we came to Central America, lemons, cocoanuts, bananas, 
 J. ineapples, grapefruit and oranges. All of these were old friends, 
 but we found them at their best in their native land. The first three 
 mentioned are in season the year round; pineapples for a few months 
 only and grapefruit ani oranges for six or eight months. The Cen- 
 tral Americans laughed at us for eating whit they call "common bana- 
 nas," which they use as food to fatten pigs, or sometimes cook green. 
 These bananas grow in abundance there, as do several other varieties, 
 — spice, red and apple bananas, which the genuine Central American 
 seems to prefer. The only railroad in the British colony is a short 
 «pur used mostly by the United Fruit Company to carry bananas from 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 their farms in the interior down to the coast, where they aro load- 
 ed n steamers to be shipped to the United States. The citrus fruity, 
 ■-orange.^ and grapwfruit,— are unusually large, juicy and sweet, be- 
 in^ allinwd to ripen befure pulling, Grapefruits are often, called 
 "Shadducks", afcer the man who tirst brought, them from the East 
 Indies. 
 
 Among the new fruits for which we cultivated a taste are mangoes, 
 a sweet juicy fruit, growing around a large seed; grenadier?, froro 
 the seed of which can be made an acid drink; locusts., which taste like 
 dried dates; cashews, a fruit which grows in a peculiar way, the seed, 
 coming firsi, appended to the fruit, wnich matures, later; guavas 
 from which excellent jellies and preserves are made; papayas, similar 
 to the canteloupe, their milk being the most powerful digestive 
 known; poconobois, resembling in laste the muscadine found in the 
 States; and several varieties ui apples,— monkey, maumee and cus- 
 tard, entirely unlike the a[»ples of the temperate <oone. 
 
 We found several varieties uf vegetables new to us, ^growing there. 
 The most interesting of these, perhaps, was the cahune cabbage, the 
 heart of the cahune palm. It can be boiled, or used for picides or 
 slaw, as our cal'bage, but it is far more tender and delicate in flavor. 
 This canune palm ii of further interest, as it is used largely by the 
 natives in building their houses, the fronds being utilized for the 
 roof and the built-in beds, and the stems of the fronds being split for 
 stockading the sides of the house. The tree bears a rich cream . nut 
 which the natives split and feed to their chickens in place of corn. 
 Alligator pears, a vegetable with green meat growing around a large 
 seed, are used for salad. Frijoles are an excellent variety of blacR 
 bean raised by the Indians. Colilu is a kind of salad or greens grow- 
 ing wild and overrunning tlie gardens. Cocoa, or dasheen, much the 
 same as our ornamental elephant ear, has a root which i.s cooked, 
 furnishing a starchv vekcetable like an Irish potato. In the same class 
 of tubers are the whi;e and yellow vams and prrpie yampas, both 
 roots of a vine, and also casava, or yucd, one variety of wnich is used 
 aa a veg^-table, and another to furnish starch for bread breadfruit 
 is a laige, substantial fruit, growing on a spreading shade tree and 
 is good cooked almost any way. It is the size of a small wateirnelon. 
 Flantiin, n variety of banana, is baked or boiled, both green and 
 ripe. 
 
 Coffee berries grow readily in British Honduras, but not in large 
 » nougn qu antities for export. Toe cacao tree furnishes the cocoa 
 bean, from which is manufactured cucoa, chocolate and cocoatina. 
 Lemon grass grows wild, and is b liled by the natives and the tea used 
 fcjr fever, and a tea is also made from the leaves of the spice tree, 
 who.se berriei are used as a spice. Tne watervine furnishes a good sub- 
 stitute for witer to the tairscy h nicer tr^vdlin^ through tne basi. 
 
 Amon.? th ' wild games is the armadillo, a land member of tne turtle 
 family, and gibnut. whose mdit ha the flivor of chiccen, also wa/- 
 ree and picary, both a kind of wild bo?r. 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 MAIL DAY 
 
 A weekly gala day was Tuesday, when the mail came in from the 
 State. Wewereall very much excited over the prospects of the 
 S and would ride down to the Point to get it. The weekly stealer 
 Tef' t at Monkey River, a small town about thirty miles up the coast, 
 each Monday evening, and it was brought down to P-ta Gorda ma 
 sailboat, which accounted for the fact that it f ^'''L "Vednesdav 
 twe£nane«r]y hour Tuesday morning and late hoy We«^^^^^^^^ 
 night owing to the fact that the sailboat had to wait for a fair 
 wind 'to sail to Punta Gorda. We were much excited, at the ^ist^^^^^^^^ 
 tion of the mail, each of us being in hopes of receiving a letter trom 
 -hL" "(r "her" or just "home", as the case might be Sometimes 
 we were pleasantly surprised by receiving mail on the Mobile Steam- 
 er, for mail to Punta Gorda is usually sent via New Orleans. 
 
 PUNTA GORDA 
 
 Punta Gorda is the Spanish for "Fat Point." which is the reason 
 that .0 many people speak of it as "The Point." J^y^ory is that a 
 number of years ago when I he country was first settled, this was the 
 onrpoint on the coast at which fat meat could be bought, so it was 
 named "Punta Gorda." or "Fat Point," and the name has clung to it 
 
 Punta Gorda is a picturesque little place-one long street on the 
 water front with side streets or alleys connecting it '^'th a back 
 street There are perhaps seven or eight white families at the Point, 
 all ofthem engaged in business there. However. Toledo Settlement, 
 the Amencan ^oLy five miles distant settled by the Pearces and the 
 Lesters after the civil war, is far preferable as a pl^ce to live There 
 are a number of stores in Punta Gorda. but they carry a ver/ linn ted 
 stock, and r ost of the shopping has to be done in I^l'^^-Jhe Brit- 
 ish Government has erected a new concrete postoffice, to take tne 
 place of the old one, which was a two story frame and brick build- 
 ing. The native houses are made of cahune leaves or adobe with 
 thatched roofs of palm leaves. The town fronts on the Bay of Hon- 
 duras, which curves aroun-i in a great semi-c.rcie. ^^^oss which can be 
 dimly seen ^he shores of Guatemala and the town of Livingston with 
 thriong range of mountains in the background, extennmg eastward 
 
 into Spanish Honduras. 
 
 CATTLE LANDING 
 
 Another interesting place along the shore is Cattle Land'jig where 
 all the boats anchor. There is a good pier running well out into the 
 water, from which it is easy to embark and land. The people of the 
 Settlement keep a man at Cattle Landing, ready to row out at any 
 ?ime and meet'the larger boats which cannot anchor at the pier. In 
 our minHs the landing is connected with many memorable trips up 
 and down the coast and out to the Cays. Along the shore between 
 Catile Landing and Punta Gorda is a group of native houses, forming 
 the litile settlement of Buena Vista. 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 TOLEUi) SETTLEMENT 
 
 The boundaries of Toledo Settlement begin a short distance out the 
 road from the point, and the Settlemment coverj about four square 
 miles. The land which came into the hands of tne American colo- 
 nists as virgin forest fifty years ago, is now beautiful farming coun- 
 try, with densely thicketed hills rising from the gtntly rolling lields, 
 used for growing sugar cane, the staple product of the district, or as 
 pastures f..r the great herds of stock. There are ten comfortable 
 hon.es. housing a')out forty Americans, who enjoy the modern com- 
 forts and conveniences of today in the midst of a primitive tropical 
 country, unhampeted by thepetty sccial forms and customs of the more 
 conventional .America on the north. 
 
 A very interesting pastime at Toledo Settlement was mountain 
 climbing. Nitt really mountain climbing, either, for the Coxcomb 
 Range, a continuation of United States Rockies, is quite a distance 
 hack from the coast; hut there are many beautiful hills in and 
 around the Settlement, from which can be gained a fine view of the 
 surrounding country and the Bay of Honduras, as the tallest of these 
 hills rises lully a thousand feet above sea level. We climbed both 
 Mount Royal and Pern Hill, the boys going ahead with machetes and 
 clearing out the bush so that the girls could get through. Fern Hill 
 is especially steep, and it required some hard climbing from the 
 time the thick unt^erbrush was entered until the greai face of rocks 
 at the top was reached; but once there the view gained from ihe 
 vantage point made the effort well worth while. 
 
 During our visit in Central America, we derived much pleasure 
 from the long tramps, sometimes carrying guns along and hunting 
 birds in the bush, and again taking fishing lines and reels to nearby 
 strea ns Since books have long been go'^d companions, Tennyson, 
 Browning and Omar Khayyam were often invited to go along. Fre- 
 quently we struck out the main mad. jusi for the mere pleasure of 
 walUng, which was apparently an inexplicable thing to the natives 
 we pa-^seil on the road, who seemed to settle the qupstion to their 
 own satisfaction Dy deciding that the poor "Gringoes" were "loco," 
 (the native expression for det.ienteil.) 
 
 One night v,e were invited to the parsonage to tea. and to an enter- 
 tainment give by the Coolies afterwards. Rev. Heyworth preaches 
 to thes«' |»e'iple every Sunday, as well a? to the white people in the 
 settlement. After a very enjoyable tea we went over to the church 
 where Creolex and Cocdies. S(Mne of th»'m as black as midnight, were 
 Arranging to have a program. The girls and women wore full skirts, 
 ■uch as might have been seen in the St ites ten or fifteen years ago. 
 Ail of them were dressed in white, with pink ribbons very much in 
 evidence. The en»ertainment was of a religious nature, consisting of 
 v*rse« and songs taught the perf rmers by an intelligent Creole, 
 called "(jranny." whom Mr. Hevworth has had with him a number of 
 year* in the capa-ity of housekeeper and interpreter. She sat nehind 
 the organ and shook h r ft!«l at imperfect performers and prompted 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 them when necessary. They did reasonably well, and seemed to ap- 
 preciate our applause. After the entertainment thev posed for two 
 flashlight pictures. 
 
 Going home from the church on foot, we had a taste of Central 
 American rain ani mud. Regardless of everything and everybody, 
 moonlight and all, those with skirts handled thpm native fashion, to 
 the great enjoyment of Levi, who brought up the rear of the proce :sion. 
 
 We had some horseback rides that would put "Teddy" to shame; 
 and doubtless ours were just as interesting to u? as his to him. One 
 afternoon we weat over to the "Judge's" big canefield. We rode 
 along grassy mads and muddy ones, over ditches and stamps until we 
 came to a field covered with old logs and stumps where the native la- 
 borers were digging little trenches in the virgin soil and putting the 
 canes down. These sprout at each eye alternating as to the side of 
 the cane. We were told that in a cnuple of years these logs would 
 have decayed, supplying a fertilizer for the soil. It is necessary to 
 plant a cane field only cnce, for each succeeding year the canes ratoon 
 sending nut sprouts for the new crop. 
 
 Afte» seeing how the cane was planted we went to a field where the 
 ripe cane was standing. The stalks average about two and a half 
 inches in diameter and fifteen feet in height. Some of the stalks 
 were cut and after the hard outer surface was removed we sucked the 
 juice. 
 
 On our return from the fie'd we saw the "Judge" give out rations 
 to the native laborers who receive fr)rn eight to ten dollars a month 
 and rations consisting of four pounds of pork and seven quarts of 
 flour per week. Tiis native labor is as a rule poor and unsatisfactory; 
 for the country is so rich in its natural resources and there is so 
 much food growing around where it c^n be picked up easily that 
 there is verj little incentive for the natives to work. 
 
 THE LOCAL DBNTIST 
 
 Another interesting impression was made by our visit to "Doc" Pearce 
 the local dentist. Now "Doc" is young, good- looking and interesting 
 and is it any wonder that the girls of our party developed a spvere 
 toothache immediately after their arrival at Toledo Settlement? 
 The doctor was rather hard to find in his office but there was suffi- 
 cient incentive for the girls to keep on trying. He divided his time 
 between practicing and caring for a pet motor boat, the "Detroit." 
 His thinness was probably accounted for by the frequent trips which 
 Ye made between his office and the Landing, three miles away. 
 
 The doctor was very tender in his treatment of patients (or those 
 of the gentle sex, at least), and he very kindly allowed them the priv- 
 ilege of sterilizing their own instruments, sweeping the floor, or 
 any ether such stunt as they might care to do. While he was work- 
 ing on their teeth there jvas often the chperful accompaniment of a 
 Carib with an aching cooth rolling around the floor and expressing his 
 misery in heartfelt groans. 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 The wall of the doctor's office was amply decorated with a picture 
 of some Vanderbilt students standing around a skeleton trying to look 
 wise. The grinding machne had a weak band which broke every time 
 "Doc" f-tarted pedalling, but he itemed in no way disturbed by that. 
 He had all kinds of wicked looking instruments which^lie used mostly 
 on the natives. (No wonder they rolled around on the floot and 
 groaned). I'ut in spite of all, Dr. Pearce is a fine dentist as is evi- 
 denced by the fact that none of the members of the family have «ny 
 work done in the Staffs but wait till they get h. ne so that "Doc" 
 cr.n do it. (Also he's cheaper.) 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 SlGHTSfclEING IN RRITISH HONDURAS AND GUATAMALA. 
 
 Early Friday morning, June 12th, a jolly crowd of eight started out 
 for a genuine Central American camp, a rough f-nough trip, but tend- 
 ing to get one next to real nature. All of the crowd entered fully 
 into the spirit or the adventure, and in spite of the many little incon- 
 veniences, such as water in the oil tank of the motor. boat, each mem- 
 ber of the party seen.ed to have a good time. We started from Fair- 
 .iew seated on top of our baggage, which was done up in crocus bags 
 and stacked up on an ox- wagon. Only those who have taken such a 
 ride in one of the native "hor-^fless carri.ges" can appreciate the 
 feeling we had when one of tht- unruly oxen made a wild dash for the 
 side of a high bridge, almost carrying the wagon over. 
 
 After a Ir.ng wait at Cattle Landincr, we were finally paddled out in 
 a mahogany dory to the motor boat. Julia Chester had not fully re- 
 coveted from her steamer trip, so she did not attempt to go, but 
 stayed a*, home and learned to ride horseback. "Catsey," Lois and Jim- 
 my Clyde tocik the weather on top of the canopy, while "Doc", Mr. 
 lagle ard Ptnnett managed the stubborn engine and Maria took the 
 wheel and demonstrated what a guud pilot she was. Levi steered the 
 small motor boat which "as beinir towed out to be used '"n fishing. 
 
 About niion w<* reached Mnho Cay, th(> sm'llest of the nearby cays 
 having a beach, (the others being cuvered with mangrove swam.ps). 
 There we anchored our boats, the Furor and the Montagua. and went 
 ashore in a dory. Natura!l>', the fir>Jt thin;^ we lid was to eat our lunch, 
 — tea cakes, bi.«cuits and fried chicken, then we started on our first 
 towing experience. As a fishing expediriim it was a complete fail- 
 ure, but the Hea was ju-it rough enough to make it very interesting and 
 enjoyable. "Catsey" can si)eak abouc the fun of sitting on the stern 
 and splashing w?ter. 
 
 After a good swim in Honduras Hav. we built a fire and cooked 
 our first camp dinner, a big pot nf Irish slew, one of rife, and 
 some lea. Some thought that we were cooking enough for both din- 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 ner and breakfast, but before the meal had advanced very far the 
 bottom of the pots were in evidence. 
 
 We hung our eight hammocks under the leaf camp which had been 
 built by the Pearce boys a year or two before for such occasions, 
 and it looked very much as if we were to be crowded; hut when all 
 got packed away for the night, it seemed that there might be room 
 for more hammocks. To one not accustomed to camping out in that 
 country, the true value of a cloth hammock is entirely unknown. It 
 Serves as b^d, chair and various other pieces of furniture 
 
 We all retiied early, but not to asleep; for as soon as some drifted 
 into the Land of Nod, one ot the more wakeful campers would begin 
 roll cal/, and all had to answer 
 
 Next morning while the boys were out some distance from the cay, 
 diving for conchs to be used for food and fish bait, the ladies made 
 their extensii^e toilets; and after having tea, all went fishing in the 
 smaller motor boat. We pulled up about thirty fish in an hour or 
 rwo. Mr. Eagle was especially successful in hooking British Hondu- 
 ras with his patent rod and reel ; and after losing several hooks and 
 sinkers, he decided to give up the reel and try the drop line, such as 
 the rest were using. (The ot'ners thought, h<^wever, that he was more 
 successful as a land fisherm.an.). Finally Jimmy Clyde got tiied of 
 feeding all the small fishes with the bait ana decided that it was 
 time to go to camp for dinner. In spite of very determined opposi- 
 tion from "Doc" she managed to pull up anchor and before many 
 minutes we were back at camp and Lois was engaged in her favorite 
 occupation of cleaning fish. 
 
 After a big dinner we start«-d for home, nearly leaving Levi and his 
 boat because of the breaking of the towing rope. We arrived at Cat- 
 tle Landing to find Julia and Mr. Charlie Moore waiting on the pier 
 for us. Again climbing up on our ox wagon we managed to cover 
 the three miles to Fairview between s-howers and were soon planning 
 for a more extended trip to the other cays. 
 
 SEVEN HILLS ESTATE 
 
 A much anticipated pleasure was the trip we made up to Seven 
 Hibs, a large estate owned by an English corporation and rnn by Mr. 
 Sidney Braithwaite. 
 
 The Seven Hills Estat«^ is a great ^ract of land beginning at the 
 Rio Grande about four miles above Punta Gordo and extending eight 
 miles farther up the coast. The estate with its seven great wooded 
 hills and the valleys and ofretches of level pasture land between, cov- 
 ers thirty thousand acres, and is as beautiful >; piece of land as can 
 be found in British Honduras. The house, which crowns the top of 
 a hill a mile back from the landing on Seven Hil s Cr^ek, is a low 
 substar-^ial building, erected nearly half a century ago by the first 
 fettlers of the estate. In ^pite of its p^e and the feet that it is loca- 
 ted in a damp, tropical country whf^re timbers rot out rapidly, the 
 house is still in surprisingly good condition. It is built along grace- 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 ful linos, an 1 has L.-en tastelally furnished by the present occupants, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Sydney Braithwaite. the latter going there as a bride 
 a year or so ago. 
 
 The estate was first ^ettled and planted in sugar in 1868 by Young, 
 Toledo & Company, (Senor Toledo b^ing a wealthy Spaniard after 
 whom this leciion )f British Honduras id named.) A two hundred 
 and fif^y thousand dollar sugar plant was installed, and seven or eight 
 hundred laborers were imported to cultivate the cane, harvest it and 
 take it though the mill. The sugar was turned out in the form of a 
 rough, brown block called "concrete," undripped and undrained ,in 
 which form it was sent to the English sugar relinenes, where it was 
 nnde into commercial product. One advantage of this arrangement 
 was that the omfrete as a crude product was not subject to dutj'. 
 However the market was ruined by b^untyfed sugar from the Con- 
 tinent flooding English markets and after a number of years the plan- 
 tat i(jn was allowed to lapse into disuse. It was then bought by a 
 wealthy Dutchman. Debrot, who attempted to run it for three or four 
 years, but failed to make it pay It was again practically deserted 
 for a number of yeiirs. and at Debrot's death was bought for a song by 
 the Southern States Company, an English syndicate which placed Mr. 
 Braithwaite on the land as agent. For a number of years the land was 
 rented as cattle pasturage, but now most of it is unused. 
 
 Mr. Braithwaite. the agent, also manages the Jeotral American bus- 
 iness of the Western Land Syndicate, which is practically the same as 
 the Southern States Company, owning land up near Belize, on which 
 they sell the timber rights to mahogany cutters. 
 
 Our trip up to Seven Hills was very enjoayable on account of the lo- 
 cal interest of the place, and the charming hospitality of Mr. and 
 Mrs. Braittiwaite.who seemed in no way overwhelmed by the crowd of 
 twelve from Toledo Settlement, "oming up in the "Detroit" and the 
 "Montagua." 
 
 Our day up on the heights, amonwi the beautiful scenery of the hills 
 and the excellent vi ;w of the oast, seemed only too short, and we de- 
 layed our return home till the moon came up and gave us sufficient 
 light for our rundown the coast, and our three mile ride out from the 
 Landing. 
 
 rKII' TO MAHOUANV t'AMP OF MASO.N PEARCE 
 
 Arising in the wee hours of the morning of June 18th, Bennett 
 and L«='vi Pearce and Marvin Eagle set out on foot with their lug- 
 gage for the Landing, to go in the Furor to Puerto Barrios, Guatemala. 
 Stopping at Hunia 'iorda. the Carib who had obtained the clearance 
 palters for the boat was taken on board to act as captain. The sea 
 was considerably rough going across the Bay and frequently waves 
 d-rtshed into tne eriKine room and cabin of the boat. When Barrios 
 was reiched. even a much dreaded American gun and an Ameiican 
 citzen passed tht scrutinizin/ examination of the Customs officers. 
 Barrios presented itse'.f as an important shipping port, three steam- 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 ers then being engaged in loading and unloading their cargoes, Thia 
 port is important because it is here that the United Fruit Compgny 
 has its Guatemala offices, which handle all the fruits, (principally ba- 
 nanas,) grown on one hundred thousand acres of land owned by the 
 Company in the interior, and also because it is the Atlantic terminus 
 of the Guatemala Railroad which passes through Guatemala City, and 
 on lo the Pacific. This is a narrow guage road, controlled by Ameri- 
 can capitalists, who are insured by the Gratemala Governrrent 
 againit any loss in oneration. 
 
 After we had passed through Customs, the remainder of this and 
 the following day was spent in conveying raft chains hy means of the 
 Furor from Gracioso eight miles distant and loading them in a 
 freight car for shipment to Morales, to be taken from there to Mason 
 Pearce's mahogany camp. On the morning of the third day after 
 reaching Barrios, tickets were brought over the Guatemala Railroad 
 for Morales costing five cents a mile for fijst class pa.^sage, which, 
 though the best available, was very poor. However, the poor service 
 was more than outweighed by the interest and amusennent caused by 
 local features. Among the striking things to be noted al aig the way 
 from Barrios to Morales were the "slow train through Arkansas" 
 speed of the passenger train, and the miles of cultivated bananas 
 stretching out along the track on either side. 
 
 Setting out under baggage from Morales bv way of a spur of the 
 Guatemala Railroad, after a two hours tram.p we obtained a dory, 
 which, by the use of poles and paddles for about five hours, gave the 
 means of conveyance to a point about one and a half hours walk from 
 the mahogany camp After Montagua had been left on the right, na- 
 tives and natives' houses were frequently to be seen Apparently the 
 moat energetic toil engaged in by the men -vas fishing or paddling a 
 boat. But usually they were seen sitting serenely 'n the shade, while 
 the women, sparingly dressed, stood knee deep tn the stream washing 
 clothes. Before reaching camp we passed three of Mason's mrn 
 with seven yoke of oxen engaged in hauling mahogany logs, which 
 were being dragged from the place of cutting to the bank of the near- 
 est stream, to await the flood season for floating down to the larger 
 stream for rafting. The slide upon which these logs were being 
 dragged was a sled-shaped affair pulled bv oxen over a road made by 
 cutting out saplings, and placing their trunks across the road about 
 six or eight feet apart, On reaching camp we fuund it to be composed 
 of several small house=! built of bambao and cahune. such as the 
 natives occupy. 
 
 The next day was Sunday, for some a (iay oP rest, for others an op- 
 portunity for hunting, and for others still it was wash day. A hunt 
 on the day following, indulged in by two members of the party, pro- 
 duced no game but an armidillo; however, wild boar and mountain 
 cow tracks were seen. 
 
 We made the return trip to Barrios Tuesday, bv the same methods 
 of trinsportation previously mentioned. On Wednesdav we went 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 to Livingston in the Furor for a barge, or lighte^ and returned with 
 it to HHrrius Thursdav night. Friday we loaded the barge with 
 eighteen oxtn {.nd three hoi^es. which had been driven by Mason 
 Penrce to Morales and shipped by rail to Barrios. Also several native 
 laborers whom he had brought over with him from Punta Gorda took 
 pafsatge on the barge The Fur(ir, with its bird task of pulling the 
 heavily loaded lighter, had difficulty in crossng the Gulf of Honduras 
 throjgh an unusually rough sea With the exception of Mason 
 Fearce, all the passengers on the lighter became seasick. However, 
 in spite of rough seas and seasickness we reached Punta Gorda early 
 Saturday morning, and unloaded the boat wUhout difficulty. 
 
 GOVERNMKNT AND POLITICS 
 
 Among the things which impress a casual observer is unusually in- 
 teresting in tne Republic of Guatemala, is the farcial form of govern- 
 ment; the indolence and unbusinesslike methods of officials and citi- 
 zens; the protection of John Crows or ouzzards, to act as street scav- 
 engers, until they have become so abundant and tame that they walk 
 about the streets like chickens in a farmyard; the evidences of im- 
 morality and degeneracy among the people; rum selling in every mer- 
 cantile house: and the so-called b-oldiers, stationed in barracks in each 
 town, dressed in blue overalls and armed wth antique rifles. Th's bus- 
 iness of the soldiers, enlisted in ;- n enforced service, is to preserve 
 the peace, arrest and present for trial and imprisonment unfortunate 
 debtors obey the commands of the President, etc., for which service 
 they receive the large renumeration of one pesos a day (which is 
 equal to five cents gola ''. S. money) no rations being piovided for 
 them. The President of the Republic, Estrado Cabrera, is life-long 
 dictator, though his term of office is supuosed to last only four years. 
 Fortunately, his rule is a beneficial one to the people of Guatemala, 
 «8 he has sufficient power to suppress thi revolutionary spirits of his 
 subject?. H's spies outnumber his soldiers; and on occasion of elec- 
 tion, he has his SDldiers procIai^l that there are three alternatives open 
 tj the voters. — to vote for Estrado ('abrera, go to prison, or be shot 
 
 The gnv»*rnment of British H'>nduras is very different. It is entire- 
 ly under English rule with a colonial governor who administers 
 local affairs. The iiritish policy is one of slow, r.atuial development. 
 which, to a Yankee, looks like no development at all. The Govern- 
 ment dues not encourage the building of railroads, or the installation 
 of cables or telegraph systems in British Honduras, nor encourage 
 colonij<ts to settle in the country, nor advance scientific farming, 
 l^ntra' America certi-inly is the "Land of Manan'^," (tomorrow), the 
 Americans scattered throuirh(»ut it being apparently the only live ele- 
 ment In the country. 
 
 CKNTIIAI. AMKRICA WOODS 
 
 More WH9 learned about the cuttinR <if mahogany on excursions 
 up the Rio (Irande, a smali river about four miles along the coast from 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 Punta Gorda, which risfs in the mountains of the interior. Several 
 trips in motor boats were made by us up this river to visit some de- 
 serted mahogony camps, booms and other features of interest. The 
 river makes its way in greal curves through the low marshy land 
 which, on each side is covered with mangrove trees whose wide spread- 
 ing roots lift the trunks above the surface of the water. Over the 
 mangroves may be seen taller trees whose tops ar^ covered with bright 
 vari-colored flowers some of which, like jasamine, are oppressively 
 fragrant 
 
 '^long the banks of the Rio Grande, floating on the water, we saw 
 airgaiors, typical of the Tropics, resembling Ifigs so closely that only 
 their eyes distingushed them. 
 
 The river water was very muddy; but it, like t^'e water from other 
 tropical rivers, was used for drii^king purposes by the natives and 
 sometimes also by white people who have no other drinking water. 
 
 About four miles up from the coast is a deserted mahogany ctim.p of 
 several houses, all having roofs thatched with cahune palm leaves. In 
 one we found four reasonably comfortable beds, or bunks, v/hich were 
 made of poles covered with pa'm leaves. On these we rested until 
 soi^e of thp more timid were scarf d away by a scorpion. 
 
 The houses mentioned were entirely without walls and in close 
 proximity to theni was a larger tnd similarly constructed h( use for the 
 shelter of the cattle which were used for dragging the mahngonv logs 
 from the place of cutting to the river. After the logs are gotten 
 inio the river, according t» Central American methods, they are rafted 
 or fastened together by the use of dogs, (iron wedges with rings fasten- 
 ed in one end), through which a chain passes. The number of logs in 
 one raft varies according to the current and width of the river. The 
 logs are from twelve to twenty-four feet long and from twelve to 
 sixty inches in diameter. 
 
 Generally the wood is measured just after being gotttm into de:p 
 water were it awaits the arrival of the ship. Three difi'erent persons 
 take part in the measuring — one representing each side of the trans- 
 action and a disinterested person — all of whom keep strict tally. The 
 value oT the several rafts which we visited was about twenty-four 
 thousand dollar each, the number of logs in each being about six hun- 
 dred. These had passcid below the boom and were waiting to be float- 
 ed to the mouth of the river. 
 
 Some of the logs had the bark stripped, as they had been cut the 
 year before and had been knocked about on the rocks in the river for 
 a longer time. Floods during the rainy season are depended upon to 
 take the wood down the river, and sometimes for lark of a sufficient 
 flood it is left high up the stream for a year or more, during which 
 time it rapidly depreciates in value 
 
 A boom made of several logs fastened to a heavy steel cable which 
 is tied to trees on each side of the river, is used to catch the logs as 
 they float down from the banks. When we reached one of the booms, 
 we stepped out of the boat on to chained logs and it was great fun to 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 jump from one to another as they almost went under with Dur weight. 
 Some were large enough, however, for several to stand on with- 
 out danger of getting wet. 
 
 Nearly all of the mahogany cut in Central America is exported, as 
 there are many other hard woods which the people who live there 
 can substitute for mahogany. However in some homes one sees 
 beautiful pieces nf furniture made from the solid mahogany. Round 
 tables are made from the spurs ot the tree which show a beautiful 
 grain. These are made up by the cabinet makers in Belize as the 
 manufacturers in the States are apt to cut the timber up and give on- 
 ly a thin veneer to the furniture. Most of the canoe piddles are ma- 
 hogany and the wash bowls of the native women are sometimes made 
 of this beautifully grained wood. 
 
 Santa Maria and cedar, woods similar to mahogany, are found in 
 Central America and ard used more widely as they are not so rare and 
 therefore not so salable. These woods are used largely for house tim- 
 bers because of their durability. 
 
 One of the finest woods found there, though not kn->wn generally, is 
 the sapodilla, which has a natural oil preserving it indefinitly. Bitter 
 wood is especially fine for building purposes as worms will not bore 
 into it on accounr of its bitter flavor. Lignum Vitae, or "^vood of 
 life", is valuable on account of its heaviness and is used, for mal- 
 lets, balls, knifd handles and manv other things. The palmaletta is a 
 beautiful wood, richer in color than rosewood. The latter is often 
 used for stove wood in Central America, as it is too heavy to be float- 
 ed down the rivers, — the only means of transportation to market. 
 Ebony is found in limited quantities and is used for the manufacture 
 of small fancy article". It is ver/ durable and of a beautiful black 
 color. 
 
 A wood which has made many fortunes is the famous logwood which 
 is still beiag imported from the Colony. The best known black dye is 
 made from this wiod, the dye being used for coloring clothing and 
 also for cheap claret wine. 
 
 These valuable woods found in British H©nduras caused the birth of 
 industry in the colony two hundred years ago, when pirates used Be- 
 lize as a rendevous; and this industry has been its backbone ever 
 since. 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 CAMPING ON THE CORAL CAYS. 
 The first step toward the preparation for this trip was the listing 
 of all articles necessary to vhe needs of about thirty people during 
 two weeks' stays. (Fortunately for the housekeeper, keen appetites are 
 always a certainly and almost anything is appreciated at the Cays.) 
 After the list vvas made tha pantry was opened and everything 
 available was sorted out and packed into boxes. Everyt-hing neccessa- 
 ry except water was taken. Kerosene boxes and patakees were pack- 
 ed with wearing apparel, the boxes to be used a chairs at the Cays. 
 
CEiNTKAL AMERICA 
 
 Empty rice sac''.3 were filled with pillows, blankets and hammocks. 
 These, with many other camping articles, were loaded on ox-wagons 
 on the afternoon of July 9th. and thus, with some in bugj,'ies, some on 
 horseback and some on foot, the party set out for the Landing. When 
 the Landing was reached, a continuation ot labor necessary for this 
 pleaarea trip was resumed by loading the camping supplies and equip- 
 ment on the Hornet. Thi« being the work of the men. the ladies sat 
 about chatting of the anticioated pleasures. By dark, all the camp 
 goods and campers were aboard the Hornet, and while waiting for a 
 squall to pass by, supper was eaten. After the squall had blown by, 
 the anchor was pulled up, the engine started and we wt-re off for 
 Point Ycacco^ which, after a few hours, we reached, anchoring there 
 for the remainder of the night. 
 
 A BRIEF BUT MEMORABLE TRIP 
 
 -'ince fishing boats would be nreded at the Cay. "I)jc"'had decided 
 to take his mo^or boat, the Detroit, alon^. She trailed in the wake 
 of the Hornet, both anchoring about the same time at Point Ycaccos 
 From there Doe was to follow the larger boat to S-ipodilla Cays, if 
 the weather permitted. But during the night, a stiff wind began to 
 blow so that we doubted if he could undertake the run. 
 
 The Hornet, leaving the smaller boat still anchored, at four-thirty 
 the following morning encountered surprisingly high seas as soon as 
 she got out from the shelter of the point. The farther out she got 
 the higher seemed the billows until they were breaking in cascades 
 over the bow and sweepin? the decks from stem to stern, drenching 
 the joy-riders frequently caught at the r»il. A period of depression 
 seemed to have fallen on the party, which but a short time before had 
 been worshipping the God Neptune with laughter and song In the 
 neavy seas the vessel rose and fell, one moment pointing her bow 
 sprit to the North Star, and the next apparently trying to harpoon a 
 shark at the bottom of the sea. E^/idently the orship that had been 
 given to Neptune was not deemed sufficient and he therefore required 
 a more material tribute of the pleasure seekers, who frequently end 
 humbly bowed at the rail, and voluntarily rendered the same withou 
 reservation. A change had come over th^ spirit of the song, and 
 feminine voices were heard mounfully chanting: 
 
 "1 am leaning o'er the rail, 
 
 I am looking rather pale, ^ 
 
 Am I looking for a whale".' 
 Well, I guess not! 
 
 I'm my mother's only daughter, 
 
 Casting breaJ upon the water 
 
 In a way I hadn't oughter,— 
 
 That is what!" , u . .u 
 
 The feelings of the worshippers were. -but why try to express the 
 
 ^T^mTrlfu'sed tr take part in such hu-niliating pagan wurs^p and 
 laughed in derision at the devout ones, even offering them tuod and 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 drink in order that they might the more fully pay the demanded 
 triVute to their god. 
 
 As the Sapodillas were approached, the sea became calm, and; 
 "They that were sick were satisfied. 
 
 Their nauseous tale was told; 
 While they that were well were gratified, 
 Having tribute paid of old." 
 After four hours of such experiences, the Hornet was anchored 
 close to the shore ^f Hunting Cay. Immediately the dories began to 
 ply back and forth between the Hornet and the shore with passengers 
 and freight, and in a surprisingly short time both were deprsited 
 on the shore, one to consume, the other to be consumed. 
 
 HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF HUNTING CAY 
 
 The little island urcn which we had come to camp was called 
 Hunting Cay, one of the six making up the Sapodilla group. It is a 
 little ever thirteen acres in size, situated ahout forty miles east of 
 Punta Gord.i and ij a part of the reef separating the Bay of Honduras 
 from the Caribbean Sea, Mrs. Pearce told us that in the early seven- 
 ties some young people from the American Settlement near Punta 
 Gorda made their first trip to Limetree Cay, another one of the Sapo- 
 dilla group. From there, voyages of exploration were made to Hunt- 
 ing Cay located a short distance to the north-east, which at that time 
 Wt.s a wilderness, havinsr only about twenty cocoanut trees on the end 
 toward Limetree Cay. Trails were found through this little island 
 forest, showing that fishermen sometimes visited its shores. The on- 
 ly other sign of habitation was z little dog-sit-down hut, the palm- 
 leaf shelter of some enterprising fisherman. 
 
 The name "Hunting Cay," tradition says, was given this island 
 many years ago when those who fled to its shores from the raging wars 
 on the Spanish Main were found there and put to death. The -Jritish 
 Government owned these Cays in the seventies; then Francis Cabral, 
 a Portugese, obtained a lease on Hunting Cay which he bOon forfeit- 
 ed, after which it was purchased by a merchant of Prerta Cortez, 
 Mr. Debrot. There he had a comfortable home built and spent much 
 of his time. He had a number of ships trading between Puerta Cor- 
 tez and Belize, and the deep channels and fine harbor made this Cay 
 a convenient stopping pJace. 
 
 From '^even Hills Estate, then the property of Mr. Debrot, were 
 brought many shiploads of fertile soil and Hunting Cay was trans- 
 formed into a garden spot. Flowers, fruits and vegetables, as well 
 as two thovsand f ve hundred cocoanut trees, were planted on it. 
 
 At his death. Mr. Debrot willed Hunting Cay to Miss Louisa Ca- 
 bral, th( present owner, who is a near relative of the deceased Fran- 
 cis Cabral. 
 
 The sea is now constantly cutting away the shores and a few severe 
 storms have shown their might in diminishing the acreage and lessen 
 ing the number of cocoanut tree^; but it still remains a favorite re- 
 
OENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 sort for parties of pleasure seekers. 
 
 During our delightful and carefree fortnight on this coral island, 
 we found it to be a place admirably suited for rest and recreation. 
 On the west side the sea was always c Im, providing an excellent plact- 
 for morning swimming or quiet rest but many of us preferred tne east 
 side, where we could watch for an occasional steamer on the Carib- 
 bean and hear the ci.ntinual loud roar of the waves and watch the 
 white crested breakers dash on the shoals of Nicholas, a neighboring 
 ^;3y- .At night this side was especially attractive, as the incoming 
 tide often brought gleaming phosphorescence and washed up to the 
 trees on which our hammocks were swung. The surge of the surf, 
 the rush of the winds and the rustle of the palm trees made such a 
 noise that the occupants of the hammocks were unable to hear their 
 neighbors sing or talk from one hammock to another, even though they 
 were only a few feet apart. Here, in a curve of the shore line, we 
 enjoyed surf bathing in the aftemoon. The sloping shore, the roll- 
 ing breakers and the somewhat treacherous undertow combinea in 
 such a way as to keep one ever enjoyably on the alert. To the ladies 
 this side had additional appeal as a place strikingly favorable for tre 
 drying of their hair and the taking of a nap after their morning swim. 
 However, this beach was of continuous amusement to all, because of the 
 antics of the ciabs, and the sea eggs, devilfishes, seaweeds, pumice 
 stones, and the variety of shells to be found there. 
 
 Such a cocoanut grove, as was on the island, to -^ome of us, p«rr- 
 haps, was the most unusual and interesting sight of all. The trees 
 twist and turn in all directions, no two of them growing alike. Thes-e 
 trees were thirty-fi/e o" forty years old. and had reached an average 
 height of sixty or seventy feet. The cocoanut tree has no branches, 
 but a tuft of beautiful fronds radiates fiom the top of <he slender 
 trunk. These leaves are about fifteen feet long, and .-way gracefully 
 in the breeze. In visiting North East Cay we walked to the top of 
 one which was grov/ing almost horizontally over the water, and F&r>- 
 the buds and nuts in all stages of development. The nu*s, growing 
 in great cluster among the leaves close to the body of the tree, ripen 
 the year round, and on maturity drop off. Since there were no S.vis9 
 Fam'ly Robinson monkeys on the Cay, green cocoanuts were obtained 
 by the barefooted, agile Caymen, who rival the monkey in inttliod 
 and ability m climbi'ig the tree. Ttie green nuty C(.ntair a rich, i'«-- 
 licious juice, which, for the thirsty, is a good i>ub«titute for watx.r. 
 We were told that most of the ripe nuts were iT;arketed in Beli/<', 
 commanding an average price of eighteen or twenty dollars per thou- 
 sand. 
 
 The house which we occupied when such shelter was needed, wes a 
 frame cottage resting on posts s-vme eight feet above the grourds, 
 built near and facing the western beach. It contained two badrooms, 
 a large hall which wgs used as a dinning room during the day and a 
 bedroom on rainy nights, a pantry, two porches, and a small dressing 
 room at on© end of ihe front porch. The snace un^'trneath the house 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 was roughly enclosed, and occupied by Antonio Cabral, a white mar> 
 of Portugese descent, his dark colored Creole wife and several of their 
 smaller children. 
 
 Since there were three small children taken nn thp camping trip, a 
 temporary house was constructed for them and their mothei by the 
 men of the party. This house was made by tying poles lightly slop- 
 ing toward the east, to fuur cocoanut trees, and placing on these 
 poles galvanized iron rooting and suspending from them discarded sail- 
 cloth for the walls. 
 
 The grown children of Antonio Cabral live with their families in 
 small thatchedroof houses on this and the neighboring cays. These 
 people have very primitive ideas, and are d fficult to deal with in the 
 ordinary ways of the civilized. They are apparently great church 
 people, but seem to have little idea of morals or honest business deal- 
 ings. Some of them were quite friendly and accomodating; but oth- 
 ers were auspicious and treacherous. The Cay men are good fisher 
 men, managing their small sailing dories in a remarkable way. Ihey 
 are like fish in the water and have great powers of endurance as is 
 evidenced by the fact that Moses Cabral once saved the life of a little 
 child, swimming eighteen hours with the child on his shoulders. He 
 thereby won a Victoria Cross, of which he is justly proud. 
 
 It seemed that there was something new to be learned continually 
 on the Cay; how to make bread in the open air without a stove, how 
 to look nice without dressing up, how to be proper without burcen- 
 Bome conventions; how to swim, take in sea water without strangling, 
 escape the currents and undertow and stand in *^he surf; and how to 
 Btump a toe on one of the many cocoanuts lying around without ex- 
 pressing one's thoughts . 
 
 On the west side of the Ciiy our minature fleet was anchored, wait- 
 ing to be used, being our only means of traasportation. The boats 
 which made up this fleet range in size from the H rnet, ?• schooner 
 of twenty-five tons, to the smallest dory or skiff, The Hornet has 
 two engines which serve to engage a man's full time to keep them 
 going. In case of fair wind, a sail can be put up. and then th travel- 
 ing is very good, except en rough seas when the travelers long for 
 the feeling of terra firma and a steady foothold. When the weather Is 
 good there are many comfortaUe lounging places on (he deck, or even 
 on the cabin, where one can lie and watch the water and the sky, or 
 play a game of Rook, though there is danger of a sudden puff of wind 
 bringing the sail over the boat and sweeping the unwary ones into 
 the sea. 
 
 The Furor is a motor boat much smaller than the Hornet. It is fit- 
 ted with a very reliable fifteen horsepowc-r engine, nd is large enough 
 to accommodate quite a crowd. It is splendid for use in towing or 
 in taking Utile pleasure trips, and can weather a pretty rough sea. 
 This bnat has been used extensively in the mahognny work for tow- 
 ing logs or taking supplies to the different camps. Drawing only 
 about four feet of water, it can be taken up some of the smaller riv- 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 era or can be anchored close to shore. 
 
 The small motor boats belong to the various boys of the Settlement 
 and are fine for pleasure trips. Among them are the famous Detroit 
 the Montagua, the San Popa, and others. These can not be used in 
 a heavy wind, for the s;.ray is so great that the occupants of the boats 
 are soaked in a short time. The sail dories are preferable for rough 
 seas, as th, y ride the waves better and are perfectly safe when handled 
 by an expert. 
 
 RECREATION AND SPORTS 
 
 The chief forms of recreation on Hunting Cay were bathing, fishing 
 and diving, pleasures which only the strongest or the weakest-hearted 
 could resist. The bathing can scarcely be equalled anywhere as there 
 are two different kinds of beach, one on the Honduras Bay side, the 
 other facing the -pen Caribbean. Those of the party who were more 
 peaceably inclined preferred the former, revelling in the long stretch of 
 sandy bottom and the absence of heavy rollers or any other disturbing 
 element, except an occasional shark. In the afternoon when ihe sun 
 was low enough to shade the beautiful Bay on the eastern side, those 
 who enjoyed the excitament of the surf indulged to their hearts' con. 
 tent, while the others sat on the beach and enjoyed watching the bat- 
 tle with the heavy waves which rolled in almost unceasingly. Of 
 course, there were several in the partv who thoroughly enjoyed teach- 
 ing others to swim, a d as a result Catsey became so proficient that 
 she could leave her cocoanut life-preservers on shore. 
 
 There were only a few who would attempt very much diving, but 
 all thoroughly enjoyed the search for conchs. Before the Furor was 
 taken back to the Settlement, one trip was made beyond Ragged Cay, 
 where over two hundred conchs were brought up by the r.ivers in two 
 hours. Jimmy Clyde became an expert diver witn Bobby Cabral to 
 point out the conchs and hold her while she picked them up with her 
 feet in shallow water. Some divsd without getting their heads wet, 
 and one member of the party succeeded beautifully in keeping all 
 three of his cocoanuts dry. 
 
 Another excur<«ion in search of conchs was made tc-war J the other 
 end of the reef, where the boat was loaded to its full capacity in a 
 shoittime. As we were returning to Hunting Cay, it was deci'^ed 
 that we should stop at North East Cay for a visit. Of crarse. Jimmy 
 Clyde was one of the first to jump overboard to swim ashore. When 
 she had almost reached dry land, a cry for help was heard, an 1 we had 
 to rescue her from the seaeggs on which she had accident ly stepped. 
 Even though Doc was not there to prescribe, however, by tha internal 
 rpplication of a half a gallon of spawater, and the external application 
 of a bottle of Wizard Oil, she soon recovered from the effects of the 
 seaeggs and the man-of-war, which she had also accidently t(.'uched. 
 
 Doc and Levi were the great fishermen of the crowd, (that is, .^ea 
 fishers,) and to them we owed most of the delicious fish fi r the table. 
 
 There were three methods of fishing at the Sapndilla:^, di-op line, 
 tow line and hammock; but towing was un«5uccossful. Hammock 
 
A SO'MMeK I-N 
 
 fishing, however, was very popular, and to all appearances somewhat 
 EUccesEful. Ip fact,Doc became very proficient in both hammock and 
 drop line fishing. The fishes which were most abundant were the 
 Porgie, the Gruut and the Jimmy Hini, while the best and the largest 
 of the smaller fish were the snapper and the yellow tails, which were 
 exceptionally palatable; however, no drop line fisherman had a com- 
 plete experience until he had pulled in a game Old Wife or two. But 
 possibly the most exciting sport of all was ratcbing an occasional^ 
 shark. A large hook which \\ as attached to a strong line with about 
 three feet of copper wire, was baited and thruwn over the side of the 
 boat. When a shark became fastened to the hook, he was angled in 
 and knocked in the head. Sharks in these waters sometimes attain & 
 length of eighteen feet. 
 
 While Hunting Cay offered rest and relaxation for the tired, re- 
 creation and romance for the young, with health and happir.ess for ally 
 it was probably at its best as a playground for little ehildren, pro- 
 vided they had a wholesome fear of the water, and there were no 
 falling palm leaves or cocoanuts to menace their safety. The Utile 
 tots of our party were free to come and go at will and unattended. 
 They bathed with their elders, waded along the beat-.h, d'.)g in the 
 clean, white sand, wandered back and forth through the sun and shade, 
 and tired and well- fed thsy slept peacefully in hammocks swung be- 
 neath the cocoanut trees. 
 
 Childhood is generally conceded to be the happiest period of life; 
 and surely when these children grow old, there will be m brighter 
 spot in their memories than that of the days spent on Sapodilla Cays. 
 
 HOUSEKEEPING 
 
 Housekeeping on the Cay, as elsewhere, was largely a matter of 
 routine. There were plenty of servants and a full larder. The meals 
 were planned by Mrs. Pearce and MissHalliday, and the supplies given 
 out in Central American fashion. Ordinarily on such trips the ladies 
 took turn about at housekeeping, but on this particular trip one or 
 two of the party, unimpeded by frivolity or narsery duties, under- 
 took the whole of it, much to the gratification of the iihers. 
 
 We ale much and often, our menu consisting largely of rice, t\sh, 
 conchs, canned meat, vegetables (native or canned), fruits (fresh, tanned 
 or preserved), with the ever present tea, bread and bu<"ter. Early 
 in the morning, clad in kim.onas, regligees or bathing suits, we took 
 the first meal which consisted of bread with butter anc jam, and as 
 much tea as could be consumed, besides any cold tish or other meal 
 which might have been accidentally left from the day before. This 
 was our most informal meal as it was impossible to get more than a 
 third of the ptrty out at once, and very often most of us were in for 
 our morning swim before the sleepier ores reported for tea. 
 
 After the dishes had been cleaned, supplies for breakfast w ere giv- 
 en out, and to the inexperienced this was no easy tafk, as the proper 
 amount of food must be handed lo ihe native cook with sufficient 
 
CENTRAL AMKKICA 
 
 "taffy" to keep her from flyint? off at a tangent. The setting of the 
 table wa3 qaita an art in itself, as the seatin? capacity was n )t so 
 great as it might have been for so large a crowd. There were no 
 chairs, so boxes with planks resting on them served in their pi ices. 
 This arrangement was ioconvenitnc only to 1 he stylish ladies of the 
 party, who had trouble in clambering over the p'anks with their tight 
 skirts. Dinner was a repetition of breakfast, desert added, which 
 was almost always served with cocoanut crejm, a rich, delicious dress- 
 ing f )r any desart. The coeoanat cream was prepared by soaking 
 grated cocoanut in water, and, after squeezing the palp out thorough- 
 ly, Dermitting the water to stand for a .-hort time. A rich, white 
 cream would thc^n rise tj the top and was skimmed off the .v-ater just 
 as cream is ordinarily skimmed off milk. 
 
 The food was carried from the kitchen to the dining room, which 
 were about fifty yar.Js apart, by the native servants who had been 
 taken from the Sattlemant. Tha kitchen was a h^use eight by ten 
 feet. The walls were made r>f pjles and the roof of cocoanut leaves. 
 It had one door, two small windows and no chimney. The stove wa-f 
 a box five by six feet, filled with sand. Two bars of iron with ends 
 resting on rocks abaut five inches from the top of the stove or fire- 
 hearth, were used as a rest for the pots. Th .'se iron rods would hold 
 only three pots at a time, so it required no little ingenuity to manage 
 to cook so many varieties of food, and very often the j^rits or rice 
 Would be scorched, especially if the cook happened to be in a bad hu- 
 mor. When the wo )d was wet, as was often the case, and the 
 house full of smoke the c.ok had a hard task getting six meals a day, 
 three for the camping party and three for her own family. One of 
 the greatest problems of the trip was to keep sufficipnt bread cooked 
 so as not to have to bake every day. Fifteen quarts of flou* made up in- 
 to cocoanut bread would last only two day?, and the baking itself was 
 fto small job. In addition to cocoanut bread we had Johnnie cakes and 
 water bread. The baking was done in a large Dutch oven placed on a 
 sheltered part ol! the Cay. This oven was a large iron pot standing 
 or three legs. To bake the bread, a fire was made under the pot and 
 coalj were placed on the lid; and it was surprising to see how well and 
 quickly the bread would bake. 
 
 .^UND.W ON HU.N'riNG C.-\Y 
 
 Regarded simply as a holiday, it was one of the best of days. Blue 
 sea and sky, a bright sun, a breeze growing to a gale in the evening - 
 the very sights and sounds were refreshing. We bathed, swam, ate 
 and rested as usuai, or more than usual, froui dawn until long after 
 dark, and enjoyed to the full our freedom from the formal con- 
 straint of hymnbooks and church parades. And yet, because we were 
 by no mtians a erovd of reprobates, we kept our Sabbath, too, in 
 our own wav. With a little imagination, we could fancy ourselves in 
 church all day, playing there as little children ought to do. Our Cay 
 was a little smaller than St. Peter's and a little larger than St. Paul'i 
 
A SUMMER IM 
 
 and much batter designed for the offices of worship, to our thinking, 
 than either. The pillars, the groined arches, thp nave and the mof 
 were the high cocoanut trees, bearing their covering of waving: palm 
 leaves, (the same, perhaps, with which the children met Him whenr 
 he came to the City,) and showing real, not sculptured, frieze above our 
 heads. 
 
 As to form 
 
 "No dolorous chant, or organ music sounding 
 Or incense clouding up the twilight nave." 
 
 We held a short and simple service, seated around on boxes andl 
 planks, singing the songs we all knew to the accompaniment of 
 sounding sea, wind and trees, while the children played undisturbed 
 in the midst of the circle. 
 
 After the service, a tew of as read and discussed the San lay School 
 lesson for the day, until we were called away at the sight of a schooner 
 passing through the narrow channel between this and the next Cay.. 
 (so near that she seemed to be sailing among the trees,) and entering: 
 the heavy swell of the ocean bayond the reef, with all ^ails set, beat- 
 ing over to the wind with scuppers under, a glorious sight to sje 
 
 After dark we gathered around the hammnc.ks and sang again al} 
 the hymns we could remember, and so without more excitement than 
 this, the day passed to its close. 
 
 ADVENTURES OF DR. PEARCE 
 
 Sunday morning,— oar first on the Cay, we had been in for a dip 
 and Were resting peacefully in our hammocks awaiting the announce- 
 ment of breakfast. Wp were anticipating religious services later, as 
 Mr. Heyworth, the Wesleyan minister, was a member of our party. 
 Everything moved along beaudfuliy until the Furor came in, bring- 
 ing Mr. Pearce and Levi. When they landed they made the stRrtling 
 announcement that "Doc" had not returned to Punta Gord i. We had 
 not been uneasy about him, as we supposed that on account of the 
 rough weather he had returned home, to come out with Uncle Levi on 
 the Furor. 
 
 It is hard to describe our sensations when we received this news. 
 We were stunned by the realization that Doc had probably been out 
 on the h'gh seas for two days in a tiny motor boat with a dory in 
 tow, with only a little Spanish boy to steer the beat for him and 
 probably no food and not sufficient water. Mr. Pearce had inquired 
 at Point Ycaceos, and learned that Dsc left there at nine o'clock Fri- 
 day morning to risk the r n across to the Sapodillas. 
 
 While most of us stood around, discussed the situation and asked 
 questions, * 'the Judge" and Bennett were already making active prepar- 
 ations for turning the Furor back on her course, and making a 
 thorough saarch for Doc among the small Cays scattered down the 
 C3ast of Honduras. Their serious faces were proof sufficient of their 
 fears, and we helped as best we could to prepare them for their 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 sparch. Within twenty minutes after she dropped anchor, the Furor 
 «was again under way. 
 
 As the Furor made her way southward and approached Snake Cays, 
 twenty miles below the Sapodillas, the rescuers, "Judge" and Bennett, 
 kept a close lookout through the glasse<^ for signs of the Detroit. 
 The" had come to the conclusion that Doc h d left Point Ycaccos to 
 attempt the run to the Sapodillas; but by the time he reached the out- 
 side cay, North East Snake, had found the sea entirely too rough to 
 risk going out into the twenty miles of open water to the Sapodilllas 
 and had put back into the the lea of some one of the Snake Cays for 
 protection from the heavy gale which had been blowing continuously. 
 A close lookout was kept as they passed N^rth-East Snake Cay, but 
 no motor boat was to be seen. The next Cay was but a few miles off, 
 and for it they headed the Furor. Ttaey were soon close to windward, 
 and ran down the shore to a point where they could get a view of ihe 
 meager anchorage which the Cay afforded. 
 
 SUSPENSE 
 
 Meanwhile, the suspense of the party waiting en the Cay was 
 terrible. All spoke in hushed tones of the lost one. extolling his 
 virtues, and vigorously denying that he ever possessed any faults. 
 The song highest in favor was "Where Is My Wandering Hoy To- 
 night," and some of the more impressionable females of the party 
 to k to wearing black, "in memory of the dear departed," who might 
 have been a Mormon elder, deceased, judging from the number of 
 women and girls in mourning for him. 
 
 Three days passed in this manner, appetites failed entirely, and 
 Shepy Chester even took to refusing a fourth helping of plantains, 
 and almost pined away for iack of nourishment. All interest in 
 sports languished, and the physical condition of the crowd would have 
 been as pitiable as their mental state, had not Mr. Eagle prescribed 
 and enforced the taking of some exhausting gymnastics, through 
 which he pr "dded tha weary waiters on Hunting Cay each morning. 
 
 So dragged three almost endless day.-^. Then the morning of the 
 fourth day, eagerly searching eye? sighted an object on the horizon, 
 whose steadily enlarging proportions proved it to be the much-wished- 
 for Furor. 
 
 i)oc Pearce was "The Man of the Hour," and the sadly neglected 
 rescuers, Bennett and the "Judge," were forced to stand idly by and 
 watch Doc as he was passed on from one to another of the women 
 waiting to fall on his neck. 
 
 The first enthusiastic greetings over, we began to question the res- 
 cuing party, and they told of their run to South East Cay, where 
 they found the marooned seafarers who did not even wait for the 
 rescutrs to come ashore, but hastily scrambled into their dory and 
 put out for the Fu»-or, where they were received with a commingling 
 of joyful and uncomplimentary adjectives. 
 
 As the northeast wind was blowing a man's size gale, making the 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 sea entirely too rough for even such a hea- worthy craft as the Furor 
 to make the return voyage to the Sapodillas that day, they dec ded 
 to land, and made as comfurtab/e as the situation would perrnil. 
 
 It would be hard to describe the feelings of the rescued and the 
 rescuers as they sat gazing with lunging eyes seaward Conversation 
 would brighten up occasionally, after which glurr silence wnuld 
 reign, broken now and then by complimentary (?) epithet.-; hurled at 
 Doc, who was responsible for the blissful sixuation. It wa? hope^ 
 that the sea would be calm on the following nir rning. when the re- 
 turn trip could be made to the anxious party on Sapndilla. V ith 
 hope'ul hearts they surrendered themselves to Scmnus, expecting to 
 get an early start on the following morning. But no better weal her 
 appeared and they realized that they were destined to spend another 
 day on Snake Cay, where they amused themtelves by whittling and 
 watching the pelicans fish. The hours dragged along slowly, and the 
 supply of food and water ran low, along with their spirits. 
 
 The weather on the third day had not impr ved, and as this was 
 mail day for Punta Gorda, it was decided to go there for the mail of 
 the whole party, as the sea and wind were favrrable for the run 
 South. Consequently both boats ran into Punta Gorda, the Detroit 
 anchoring at the landing, while the Furor returned with the mail to 
 the Sapodillas. 
 
 THE EXPERIENCES OF A CASTAWAY 
 
 After the excitement c<:.used by the arrival of the castaway on the 
 Cay, every one crowded near to hear him recount his misfortunes. 
 
 "Having been awake all night on the Hornet, it was with a min- 
 gled feeling of regret and pleasure that I heard her pull anchor at 
 four o'clock to pound her way through a heavy sea to Sapodilla Cays. 
 Regret, for I was sure that my little boat, t^e Detroit, could never 
 make the trip alone against such a gale; pleasure, because I now had 
 a chance to sleep, 
 
 "My bedding was packed away on board the Hornet with the other 
 baggage, so I was forced to sleep on the bare locker of the Detroit 
 with a eoil of anchor rope under my head, where I slept comfortaoly 
 uui-il eight o'clock, when I decided to risk the trip across to the Sap- 
 odilla Cays. As soon as I got out from among the small cays sur- 
 rounding Point Ycaccos and my boat began to pitch and tuss in the 
 Tiad wateis of the open Bay of Honduras, I realized the seriousness 
 of my situation and the necessity of my returning to shelter. How- 
 ever, I concluded that I would push on to Snake Cay and spend the 
 night there hoping for calm seas the next morning. Just before 
 reaching the cay the breeze freshened up and it was all that the 
 Spanish bov and I could do to keep the boat from being swamped by 
 the heavy breakers. It v/as only by fastening down all the curtains 
 that we prevented the waters that swept the boat from stem to stern 
 from carrying us overboard. After a fierce fight we neared the shore; 
 but on account of a belt of reefs that surround the cay, it was diffi- 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 cult to find a place to anchor. Throttling the engine carefully and 
 steering cautiously among the rocks, we found what seemed to 
 ba a comparatively smooth anchoragw. 
 
 "We put our cooking utensils and the scanty supply of food in ».he 
 dory and paddled ashore through the tortuous channel among the 
 rocks. 
 
 "The cay, scarcely more than an acre in size, we found to be al- 
 most covered by rank vegetation. The fishermen had cleared away a 
 sr.rip of sandy land on the lee tide, where they built two dog-sit- 
 down huts, (house open in front with roof resting on the ground in 
 the rear), and planted a few cocoanut trees and royal pain s. The 
 windward side was very rough, being built of great slabs of coral and 
 rock washed up by the heavy storms from the east. 
 
 'Through the day thn wind grew stronger, -ind increased in ve- 
 locity so that the waves swept around the whole cay and the oniy place 
 that had seen>ed to be a harb r was now being washed with bioken 
 rollers I thought that it wruld not be safe to leave ihe bo-^t an- 
 chored during the night without some one on board, so we went aboard 
 just before dark only to be pitched to and fro all night. Our an- 
 chor would not hold on the sandy bottom against the heavy jerks of 
 th3 boat and four times during the night we had to move up to the 
 anchorage from which we had drifted. With a feeling of deiight we 
 saw Ihe sun rise Saturday morning, even thouch it rose ovfr a rough 
 and tempestuous sea. T4e sea becoming still rougher. I realized that 
 it wjuld ne impossible for us to remain at our present anchorage, so 
 with much difficulty we managed to reach anotner of the Snake Cays 
 a few miles South of us, which afforded a much better harbo-. We 
 sp?nt the day iher-^ lining around on the sand and sleeping; hut when 
 darknes came on we again went aboard to experience another rough 
 and sleepless night. The little Spanish boy was tuo sea-sick to be of 
 any help to me, so I had to meet the dangers of the dark sea alone. 
 As on the previous night, the anchor would not hold and time and 
 again we were dragged from the harbor toward the open sea. I de- 
 cided to stay on the cay only one more day; then if the seas were not 
 calmenugh for my trip onward, to turn back towards heme. 
 
 "At sunrise Sunday morning we breakfasted ashore on pineapples, 
 cocoanuts. and one very small loaf of bread — the only food now left 
 us. Oar supply of fresh water had ron so lov that it had to be suf- 
 plemented by the milk of cocoanuts. 
 
 "About seven o'clock I sighted a motor boat in the distance, which 
 I recognized as the Furor, taking the route we had attempted to the 
 Sapodillas. As the seas were sj high I did not think they would^ be 
 able to weather it out, but would anchor in the shelter of Snake Cay. 
 But my hopes were all for naught, as, instead of anchoring, the Furor 
 held its course on towards the Sapo iillas. I felt sure that when they 
 reached Hun^ino- Cay and found the Detroit missing, there would be 
 soraeuneasinessastoour safety; but I did not expect the Furor to 
 set oat in search of us before Monday morning. 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 "Finding a shady place to the windward of the cay, I iay down to 
 take a nap; but it seemed as if I had just fallen asleep when I was 
 awakened by Roso who, pointing towards the end of the cay, asked if 
 that was not the Furor; and to my surprise I saw her coming at full 
 speed just outside the cay. Then I felt sure that my experiences as 
 a castaway were ended." 
 
 THE UETLRN PKOM THE CAY 
 
 Good times can't last indefinitely. Friday afternoon, July 24th, 
 we sighted the Hornet bearing down upon Hunting Cay, and we 
 knew that our eventful trip was almost over. We made the most of 
 the limited time remaining, and enjoyed to the full our last night on 
 the beach, where we visited each memorable place of interest, and 
 ended up with a big chorus, singing more than once our prime 
 favorite?, "Sympathy," "Kentucky Babe" and "A Perfect Day," 
 along with many others. 
 
 We ^^ere all astir early the following morning, and busy with the 
 preparation for breaking camp. By ten o'clock we were aboard the 
 Hornet with all our camping outfit, and headea for Toledo Settlement. 
 After a "last long loving look" at the Sapodillas, where we had spent 
 such a happy, wholesome fortnight, we turnea our faces homeward, 
 arriving at Cattle Landing late that afternoon, our calm, easy 
 journey home contrasting forcibly with *he stormy passage with 
 which we started our Trip. 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 FOOLISH FANTASIES 
 
 Have you heard the very latest? A new cannibal island has been 
 discovered among the coral reefs off the coast of British Honduras. 
 Great joy is felt among the followers of Darwin, because here at last 
 is found the species which is clearly the missing link between man 
 and monkey. (Note— See Plate 1, picture of man-monkey, the only 
 one of his kind in captivity, taken on board S. S. ('oppename.) 
 
 This island was accidentally discovered by two missionaries, Mr. 
 and Mrs. Percy Heywurth, sule survivors of the wrecked "Detroit," 
 which was lost off tne shores of SnaKe Cay. They owe their safety to 
 their proficiency in swimming, and the bouyancy of a pair of cocoa- 
 nuts tied together with a string. 
 
 Soon after daylight on the morning of July 10th, 1914, the mis- 
 sionaries sighted land. Alter many and laborious efforts they ap- 
 proached the shore. Here, however, they met with dangers graver 
 even than those of the boiscrcus sea. 
 
 The shore proved to be that of a small island, one of ♦.he Sapodillas, 
 which was covered entirely with cocoanut trees. The inhabitants, 
 about thirty in number, were gathered on the shore to meet these 
 bearers of light to heathen lands. 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 What at first had appeared to be a Land of ordinary human beinRs, 
 proved on closer inspection to be a tribe of barbarous savages with 
 many monkey characteristics. Foremost amonj, them waa tneir chief, 
 Big Eagle, standing head and shoulders above Ihe rest of his clan, 
 with gleaming white teeth and widely distendeil jaws which seemed 
 to menace the castaways. Evtn as they landed, the wtimen, clad in 
 short white skirts and shapeless blouses, wiih various colored stock- 
 ings and light sandals, began a wierd chant, the like ot which was 
 never heard on land or sea. This incantaticn was led by a fitrce and 
 warlike feminine creature, Sleepy Chester, whose rank was betoken.'d 
 by her gay headribbon and the number of rings which ornamented her 
 toes. 
 
 The poor refugees fled in terror to the safety of t e waves, but 
 were quickly overtaken by the powerful stnikes of the Swimming Cat, 
 a veritable Amazon. Too frightened tr. struggle, the captives were 
 dragged to the shore where they were imriicdiately seized by two wild 
 black-haired, dusky creatures, Willing Wilbur and Heartless Jim. 
 
 "Onkle Ben! Onkle Mac!" commanded the Chief in stentorian 
 tones, immediately ihere stepped forward two figures of slow step 
 and solemn mien. Producing ropes of native fiber, they bound the 
 unfirtunate ones hand and foot. At an oiaer from Big Eagle, the 
 company then formed a semi-circ e along the shi re. With him as a 
 lea er, they then began maKing strange moiions, bending their bodies 
 now forward, now backward, r oving their arms franticallv in the air 
 and gasping for breath. 'Twas a terr ble sight 'o cee! 
 
 The dance over, the missionaries were consigned to the keeping of 
 Horrid Hannah, the cannibal cook, and Merry Mason, her assistant. 
 The rest of the company subsided into the sea. A water fete fol- 
 lowed, led am directed by the decrepit Old Maria, who was so 
 thoroughly at home in the water that she swam like lead and dived 
 like a cork. 
 
 In the meantinie the captives were put aside to fatten. Big Eagle 
 having decided that Ad--^ was impossible and Percy not so tender as 
 he looked. They were gorged with food trum day lo day, and Horrid 
 Hannah insisted that they take vast quant: lies vr a liquid concoction, 
 compounded of dried leaves, sugar and smoked water, while Merry 
 Mason stuffed them with innumerable starches and sweets. The poor 
 captives looked longing on great basins cif native biead. bui v.'ere re- 
 fused even a crumb by obdurate Horrid Hannah. Meiry Mason would 
 have relented and granted their desire, had r.oi Hoi i nr Hannah, with 
 demoniacal ingenuity found for the bread each day a new and inac- 
 cessible hiding place. 
 
 Percy and Ada were given the freedom of thi- Cay during the day; 
 but wherever they turned, ther-^^ were Lois and Anita, two youthful 
 man-eaters, offeiing them great platters of food, and much to their 
 horror, they found themselves fattening steadily. 
 
 There was no chance for escapf . Sleepy Chester and Onkle Ben al- 
 ternated in six hour watcher with the Swimming Cat and Onkle Mae 
 
A StTMMER m 
 
 in guarding" them. These v;ere relieved at times by Willing Wilbur 
 and Heartless Jim. The morning watch was the most terrible, for 
 Swimming Cat and Onkle Mac were constar-ily overshadowed by the 
 threatening form and gloweiing eyes of Big Eagle, which our cai,tives 
 first thought were directed at them. Much was their relief to find 
 that he was only suffering the throes of jealousy. 
 
 When ihe time was ripe and the victims fattened, a great feast was 
 prepared. The board was spread and the entire clan assembled about 
 it. Besides the ones already mentioned, there were tlegant hlla, 
 Handy Anna, Serious Sade, One-Eyed Eula, Annie the Awful, to- 
 gether with two youths, Levi Longlegs and Fierce Douglas. The 
 children, Big Wallace, High Harry Francis and C>wlj Dowden, were 
 evef-ywhere tnderfoot, while at one sidt, under the care of slaves, 
 were the babies, Jame?, Eula Clyde. L. H,, and Ella- Bella. 
 
 Percy and f\da, bounri securely, were white with horror. At a signal 
 from Big Eagle the pritsts advanced with drawn knives, sharp and 
 glistening in the sunlight. Ada shrieked in terror! 
 
 At this moment pandemonium broke loose in the cro^^d, and Percy 
 gave a shout of relief, for he saw succor approaching in the burly 
 form of Admiral Levi Pearce, and his several companions, who had 
 been told of this isle and its ravenous inhabitants by the famous ex- 
 plorer. Tickled Tom Moore. In the noise end corifusi">n of the gala 
 occasion, the searching party in the gunboat Furor had ai.-proiiched 
 nnnoticei. The native, taken entirely by surprise, fled in terror, 
 dinnerless. to the opposite side of the Cay, where it is believed, som.e 
 of the more timid took refuge in the sea, while the missionaries were 
 borne away to safety by their timely rescuers. 
 
 (For further particulars, also for information regarding the cap- 
 ture of the Missing Link, Big Eagle, apply to Mr. and Mrs. Percy 
 Heyworth, Toledo Settlement, Punta Gorda, British Honduras,. 
 Central America.) 
 
 IHE PSYCHOLOGY OF THE CANNIBAL. TRIBE 
 
 This anoymous article is supposed to have been written by the 
 Rev. Percy Heyworth, after his timely escape from the cannibal tribe,, 
 by whom he was held a captive on Hunting Cay. During his S( joorn 
 on that island, he had ample opportunity to study the characteristics, 
 of its savage inhabitants, and has therefore given to psychic science 
 a most valuable contribution. This exposition is not so much a his- 
 torical description of these peculiar people, as it is a philosophical 
 treatise on their mental condition, and it is therefore entitled, "The 
 Psychology of the Cannibal Tribe," 
 
 The characteristics and mental status of a people are very largely 
 dependent upon the environment in "vhich they live. Taking this as 
 a premise for argumeint, and observing the c.rduct of that savage 
 trioe once inhabitating Hunting Cay, their peculi^ir noods and vary- 
 ing changes in mental poise, onp should <t once reach the naturaL con- 
 clusion that these people had not long resided on this small and iso- 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 laterl island. Undoubtedly their recent home had been in the quiet 
 inteiior of the British colony situated to the westward of the Cay. 
 
 The appealing loveliness of the cocoanut palms that grow in great 
 prof u.sion on the Cay; the rustling? „f their frondy in the rush of the 
 Trade Winds; the myotic beauty of the vari-colored aea; and the roar 
 of iis pjunding surf upon the beach, seemed to have a peculiar psy- 
 chological effect on the minds of the savages. During the quiet 
 morning hours when the wind and sea were less restless and nature 
 was alnu).^t in repose, a disp'^sition of lassitude would pervade the 
 trite, while old and young alike mo^^ed abour with sluggish step, 
 their minds s>^emingly possessed with a spirit of dullnes?. This no 
 doubt could in ^.art be attributed to the loss of sleep and nights spent 
 in feasting; vet the psychic element must enter even here. However, 
 as the day advanced, a change would come over the spirit of the sav- 
 ages. They would appear more alert and res: less as the elements of 
 wind and sea became more active, and bv the time night had com , 
 the mi ds of ths cannibals seemed so possessed by halucinations that 
 many of them wonld congregate on the windward shore of the island 
 and groveling there on the sand of the beach would give voice to the 
 most doleful dirges. 
 
 However, the most interesting psychological study was presonted 
 by the maidens and th(j brave" of the tribe. As 'he elements would 
 increaise in tumult, it appeared as though the hearts of the^e young 
 savages would viorate in harmony to the son^ of wind and sea, and 
 in couples they would seek secluded spots on the san iy shore of the 
 Cay, there lo give verbal expression to many curious mental vagaries. 
 This peculiar psychological phenomenon if exhibited by the more civil- 
 ized youth of Great Britain or America would readily be classified a« 
 sentiment in its predominance over every (»ther attribute of mental 
 activity; bat when evidenced among such savages as the barbarous 
 inhabitants of Hunting Cay it is safe to assert that such an occurrence 
 in mental halucinatifm should be attributed to ihe mysterious effect 
 of riotous nature upon the senses of the inexperienced. Judging 
 from the m.ental abstraction and odd silence displayed by these young 
 savages when other members of the tribe accidentally and uninten- 
 tionally roamed near, or tlioughtlessly attempted to converse witn 
 them, and the apparently abnormal mental exhileration and activity 
 shown by them when left alone, there is evidence to the author of a 
 wonderful predominance of the subjective mind. 
 
 However, it would require much deei^er philosophising to harmon- 
 ize this peculiar mental condition of the cannibals with the theory of 
 sentiment as known to the more civilize-! people of the world; tor to 
 do this, it would be necessary to discover some vital and sane connec- 
 tion be'ween the irrational mind and :. bl<iol pump .vorking under 
 
 high pressure. . , . , 
 
 It is with great interest that certain eminent psychologists and 
 
 physiologists are new studying the youthful members of this tribe. 
 
 who were later captured by the good ship Hornet and transported to 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 the British colony. It is becoming a matter of scientific debate as to 
 whether these symptoms of mental aberration and abnormal cariiac 
 activity will continue to be in evidence, or whether, under more 
 quietir.}^ conditions, the minds and hearts of the savages will assume 
 a degree of normal activity. 
 
 A TBIP TO YCACCOS LAGOON 
 
 Silently bounding over the waves in the middle of the night, was 
 the canoe of Willing Wilbur and Hubert the Tall — with their minds 
 intent upon capturing the motor boats, Detroit and Ruby, 
 which belonged to the peaceful settlers of Toledo, From the lotty 
 tops of cocoanut trees on the Cays of the Caribbean Sea, these two 
 youthful chiefs had watched in the distance the motor boats of the 
 settlers dashing over the waves, until the longing to obtain such val- 
 uable possessions could be suppressed no longer. Thus we find them 
 nearin? the shore of Toledo, their eyes dancing and hearts thumping 
 with th-f joy of anticipation, as they came upon the boats calmly 
 riding the waves at anchor. Quickly they boarded their prizes, and 
 strove with the greatest effort to start the engines, but, alas, not 
 an inch did they move. 
 
 Suddenly from under the bow of the Detroit, a drowsy, sleepy 
 black head was slowly lifted, and Willing Wilbur recognized it as 
 belonging to William, the chaperone of the settlement. He was ex- 
 hausted with the chaperoning of many excursions and had fallen 
 asleep as soon a= his master's boat was anchored. 
 
 "William," sternly demanded Hubert, "show us how to run these 
 engines, or my dagger will quickly make you a bait for sharks." He 
 touched his weapon significantly, so William went swiftly to the 
 engine. Tremblingly he gave them the necessary information, ana 
 soon they were gliding over the wa^^es and out of sight before the 
 approach of dawn. 
 
 Just before they reached the shores of their island, the Swimming 
 Cat and Edna met them ana climbed into the boats, sonn followed 
 by the Rose, Heartless Jim and Old Maid Alma. Without even stop- 
 ping the boats, they SKimmed along to the Lagoon, going by way of 
 Moho Cay, in order to secure fish tor the evening meal and to find 
 shelter for th6 night. Here the time was passed plea^^antly aied 
 profitably, the Swimming Cat practicing n^w and wonderful feats 
 in the water, Edna working fancy stitches, and the Rose gathering 
 great bunches of orchids for which the Cay is famous, while Heart- 
 less Jim and Alma cut an abundance of wood, then cleared paths 
 abort the Cay with a recently whetted machete and a butcher knife. 
 
 Early the next morning the party started up to the Ycaccos La- 
 goon, and made rapid progress, owing to the careful steering of the 
 Cat and Alma, whose skill as pilots was never questioned. The De- 
 troit followed the Ruby up the coast, and the party embarked to ex- 
 plore Wild Cane Cay, and to refresh themselves with the milk of 
 green cocoanuts and with delicious mangoes. They wandered over 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 the Cay and found numbers of high Indian mounds, the ancii ni ^'ravcs 
 of savages of a stone age, as he arrow heads, hatchecs and flints in- 
 dicated. They also found the bones of ancient chiefs, who, doubt- 
 less, had subdued neighboring nations, and were in turn subdued by 
 others. Only a little pottery, a few ornaments, and these crude im- 
 pUments i)f warfaie remained as mute records of their history. 
 
 On these mounds now flourishes the calabash gourd, which grows 
 to an enormous size, and instead of being put to its common use as a 
 drinking cup. it was there utilized as .1 washbasin. Mangoes, figs, 
 and other fruits peculiar to the Tropics were found in abundance. 
 
 E'er many hours had passed, the party continued their journey to 
 the Lagoon, whose deep and shallow waters are fringed with man- 
 groves. Back from the coast are lound ridges of pine trees and oaks, 
 such as grow in the United States. Thest; thickets afforded good 
 hunting, as they abound in deer and quail. 
 
 During the trip Heartle.-s Jim became quite an expei t engineer, 
 and learned the art of tightening the spark plug, only once letting 
 the wrench fly from her hands, in its flight threatening to alter the 
 shape of Wilbur'i classic nose. 
 
 In the afternoon the party reached a camp in the pine ridge, and 
 there cooked and enjoyed a delicious soup made from the Indian bones 
 brought from Wild Cane Cay. "The Cat" concocted a drink from 
 leaves flavored with tiny sea horses, a recipe Known only to her. 
 
 When the moon arose the pleasure seekers pushed toward home, the 
 monotony of the journey having been broker, b> Heartless Jim's 
 engineering demonstration. Strange to say, she could stop her en- 
 gine quick as ^ flash by pointing her finger at it. Once it was re- 
 ported that the gasoline had given out, and the Detroit must be 
 padaled six miles down the Lagoon to the Ruby, which had been an- 
 chored. The chaperone looked deeply pained, but when the gasoline 
 was found he laughed out joyfully. 
 
 The return trip proceeded wirhout mishaps, and before many hours 
 everyone was at home, tired but happy. 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 HOMEWARD BOUND 
 
 "There's a place for everything," so tears and sighs were not out 
 of order when the time came for our leavet?king Tuesday morning, 
 August 18th. The ten weeks' visit we had spent so pleasantly in and 
 around Toledo Settlement was now a thing of the past, and ioon to be 
 but a happy memory of lasting duration. 
 
 Cur original party of eleven was now disbanding in earnest. Mr. 
 Eagle having left ihree weeks before in order to have a little visit 
 with his parents in Virginia before resuming school duties. The 
 p<Hrty leaving for home consisted of =ix— .lulia Chester, Jimmy Clyde 
 Hartley, Douglas Moore. Wallace Moore, Dowden Cannon, and Cath- 
 
A strMMiER m 
 
 erine Jlark. M'ss Mason, Lois Pearce and Anita Moore were to ccme 
 two weeks later, as Martin College did not open as early as the oiher 
 schools. Levi Pearce was not to return to school, as he was needed 
 at home. 
 
 We were all anxious to return on the Coppename, on which we had 
 enjoyed such a pleasant voyage early in June; so we timed our trip 
 accordingly, and engaged passage from Barrios for August 20th. By 
 leaving from that port we could avoid the tiresome quaiantine in 
 Belize, and could, in addition, enjoy seeing a little m^re of Guate- 
 mala. 
 
 When the time arrived for leave-taking, we broke away from our 
 friends by degrees, telling Uncle Levi, Cousin Ella and Auntie Moore 
 good-bye at Fair View; and not without a tightning of our throats 
 did we ride away to the Landing for the last time. A number of 
 peoplf^ joined us on our ride, Mr. f-^nd Mrs. Jamie Mason and their 
 two children, Mr. Sidney Grbithwaite, Lawson, M'ifs Sade, Lois and 
 Levi. A few of the faithful were going to accompany us even 
 farther than the Landing, — "Jud-e" Pearce, Maria Mason and Ben- 
 nett having decided to g ; with us to Barrios and see us safely aboard 
 the steamer. Bennett had gone over this same course a few weeks 
 earlier, taking Mr. Eagle to Barrios in the Furor, from which port 
 the latter sailed to Npw Orleans on the Marjowine. 
 
 As we had planned a trip up the Rio Dulce, we left a few days 
 early, running over in the Furor to Livingston. Havinsr waited tor 
 the mail from the States, we did n^t get off until nearly noon Tues- 
 day and we found the waters of the Bay of Honduras rather choppy, 
 though not rough enough to cause any sea-sickness. Still, we were 
 glad to reach our destination wh':'re we anchored at three o'clock in 
 the afternoon. After settling ourselves in the one hotel which the 
 place afforded, we went out on a shopping tour, securing some very 
 interesting curios and good bargains in Panama hats. We rested and 
 sang on the hotrl gallery that evening, after having taken a walk 
 through the small town, visiting the places of interest, the chief of 
 which was the Cautelle or barracks, situated close to a small public 
 park on a high promontory overlooking the Bay. 
 
 PICTURESQUE RIO DULCE 
 
 Very early the next morning we had our breakfast and shortly after 
 seven o'clock v^e wera on our way up the beautiful Rio Dulce to Lake 
 Isabal among the mountains. An ideal day lent greatly to the pleas- 
 ure of the scenery. The river, (lowing between beautiful rock walls 
 and wooded cliffs, twisting and tui-ning in its course down from the 
 Lake to the bay, presented a wonderful bit of scenery. And to those 
 who have viewed the Hudson River as "The Rhine of America," Rio 
 Dulce is surpassingly beautiful and could well merit the title of "Tho 
 Rhine of Guatemala." 
 
 We all secured pi ices on top the cabin of the Furor, to better ob- 
 serve the scenery; and after we had pushed our way up the river for 
 several hours we reached the Gulfeta and anchored at tort San Felipa^ 
 
CENTRAL AMEJUCA 
 
 close to the entrance of the lake. This fort shows ruins of the an- 
 cient fortification which was built by Cortez after his conquest of 
 Mexico. Standing within the circle of these strong walls, we real- 
 ized with awe that these ramparts had remained intact through the 
 storms of four centuries. San Felipa is now a Guatemala fort, in 
 which a small company of soldiers is kept. "The standing army of 
 Guatemala sifting aown, " in the words of a humorist. 
 
 After viewing the fort, we advanced up the Gulfeta to the lake — 
 a beautiful expanse of water thirty miles wide, surrounded by the 
 blue crests of the mountains which stretch back into the interior. 
 The inland lakes of Switzerland must appear very much as this one, 
 though the tropical scenery has the advantage ol luxurient foliage to 
 add to the beauty of cliff, mountain and lake. 
 
 Our return to Livingston in the late hours of the afternoon showed 
 us new beauties in the scenery, and it was with regret that we passed 
 out the mouth of the Rio Dulce, and anchored again at Livingston. 
 
 PUEIiTO 13AKHIO.S 
 
 It was necessary for us to leave very early the following morning, 
 as our reservations on the Coppename wer« to oe held only until tight 
 a. m. We arrived at Puerto Barrios in ample time, and discovered 
 that the boat was a day lato and had not yet reached port. So we 
 had another day on our hands, most of which we occupied in a re- 
 union and "talk-fest" with Mason Pearce, who had come down from 
 his camp on the Montagua River to meet us in Barrios. 
 
 It might be inserted he-e tnat a great deal of interest centered in 
 Mason and his young wife, Mable Burgess Pearce, who a year before 
 had been a school girl in Pulaski, and therefore had great claims on 
 the affections of at least one of the teachers in the crjwd. As Ma- 
 son's business required his constant presence for eiiiht or ten months 
 in the mahogany "bush" some distance up in the interior of Guate- 
 mala, Mable returned to the States in January so as to spend the 
 time with her mother. Theie we found her on our return; but she 
 was not alone. For she presented for our admiring observation, 
 James Mason Pearce, Junior, who inherited his dark, curly hair from 
 his father, his dimples and blue eyes from his mother, and his general 
 good looks from them both. Illness prevented Mason's rv,turn to 
 work, and it was decided best for him to go over to Punta Gorda in 
 the Furor, and make preparations to go to the States as soon as he 
 was able. 
 
 We put up at an American hotel, the Dt-1 Norte, a three-story 
 frame building, close to the edge of the water. We had a suite of 
 rooms with a balcony overlooking the Bay. We spent most of our 
 time on the balcony, since Barrios has little of interest except a rail- 
 road which extends from the United Fruit Company's million dollar 
 pier at this port, across Guatemala to the Pacific Coasi. This pier 
 was built for the loading of bananas, which the Fruit Company .-hips 
 in great quantities from Guatemala. 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 The Americans have done a great deal for Barrios, erecting a number 
 of large, fine buildings, (chiefly the property of the United Fruit Co.) 
 and improving the streets and walks. Tne native streets are only 
 paths along the water front, bordered by dirty native stores and huts,, 
 most of them raised on supports over the water, affording most un- 
 healthy looking shelter. 
 
 On an errand out to the Coppename Friday morning, we saw seve- 
 ral familiar faces from the former trip, — Captain Whidden, the 
 Purser, and a number of lesser officials. The boat sailed at 6 o'clock, 
 just a little too early for us to have the pleasure of entertnining Mr. 
 Magruder, Bennett and Maria at dinner aboard. The last goodbyes 
 were said from deck to pier, and we left a sad-looking trio on the 
 wharf as we steamed out, Mr, Magruder's handkerchief being much 
 in evidence, while Bennett's looks were indescribable. 
 
 After the Coppename had loosed herself from the pier, "Judge, '^ 
 Bennett and Maria stood silently and watched with madness the de- 
 parting ship, each one buiy with his own gloomy thoughts. Then as 
 silently and sadly they turned and took their lonely way back to thehotel 
 where they found Uncle Mason and Mason Pearce «jn the veranda, each 
 trying to keep the otl er in good spirits. These two having already 
 dined, the for orn trio also proceeded to the dining room, and with 
 assumed cheerfulness attempted to do justice to a typical Barrios 
 meal. Suddenly Bennett, glancing out of the window and seeing the 
 smoke rising from the fast-disappearing funnels of the Copoename, 
 exclaimed with much feeling, "There she goes," (referring, of 
 course, to the ship), while the "Judge" echoed, "There she goes." 
 
 After an hour of summer reminiscences, interspersed with regrets, 
 at the breaking up of the crowd, it was decided to retire that they 
 might be able to leave Barrios early next morning. 
 
 AFTER THE DEPARTURE OF THE VISITORS 
 
 The trip back to Punta Gorda reminded one very much of the re- 
 turn of the hearse and carriages from the funeral of a friend or loved 
 one. Maria was "put to it" to keep up even the semblance of cheer 
 by waking Benr^ett occasionally from his engrossing dreams, and 
 making the "Jud^e" relax the tense expression on his face, as he 
 whittled up every available piece of white pine to be found on the 
 boat. Poor Mason was trying to ignore the presence of a painful 
 rising on his side, and to forget that he was longing to be on his way 
 to the States. 
 
 For five days after the ai rival of the party in Punta Gorda, the 
 remnants rode down to the hospital each morning to report to the 
 quarantine official; and day after day nature expiessed her sympathy 
 for the riders by sending torrents of rain upon them. There seemed 
 to be no effort at real conversation, but such, remarks as the follo«ving 
 were occasionally heard: "I wonder what they are doing this morn- 
 ing?" "Well,. I suppose they are leaving Belize nov/." "This. 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 blamed old quarantine!" "I wonder if Julia is seasick?" "1 bet 
 Catsey is having a lively time at the Captain's table." "I wonder 
 who Aunt Jimmy is thinking of now?" "I wish we could get mail 
 more than once a week." "This blamed old war!" 
 
 After the rides to Quarantine were over, the weather cleared up 
 and the drooping spirits of the Settlement seemed to revive once 
 more. Even Doc and the "Judge" caught f^eir horses and began to 
 visit their friends again, but they showed how great an effort it had 
 been t^ recover from the effects of the recent parting. It might be 
 of interests to some to know that poor Doc was overcome by his 
 feelings as the Furor steamed out to Barrios, though he claimed that 
 his attack of heart trouble was due to an excessive pain in his tooth. 
 
 Just two weeks later, Maria, Lois and Anita also sailed from 
 Barrios on the Coppename, leaving the ever-faithful Bennett on the 
 wharf. 
 
 Aftfir this, life in the American Settlement again sought its ac- 
 customed channels, but some declared that the surface of the stream 
 displayed unusual ripples. 
 
 THE UETURN TO NE^V ORLEANS 
 
 But to return again to the crowd on the Coppename. No unusual 
 excitement livened up the trip, though we prepared for it by putting 
 out all the deck lights and heavily screening each porthole and window, 
 so that the night might hide us from two German ships said to be 
 cruising in the Gulf, "seeking whom they might destroy.'' We 
 were fair prey for the Germans, as our ship sailed under a British 
 flag. It seems that the registration of ships in the United States ij 
 so very expensive that American merchantmen, such as the United 
 Fruit Company, buy English ships and register them under British 
 regulations. Therefore, after the beginning of hostilities, the Friit 
 Company had to use every precaution in taking their ships across the 
 Gulf. Of course, we wereii't looking for trouble, but hovv much fun 
 it would have been to be chased by a German cruiser and perhaps 
 captured! However, no such luck was ours. A few weeks after our 
 return to the States, the various ships of the United Fruit Company 
 fl"'ing foreign flags were registered as American ships, and now fly 
 the stars and stripes. 
 
 Various strange and fictitious tales were afloat during August re- 
 garding the ship on which we sailed. One report told that she had 
 been held up in the Gulf by German men of war; another, that 
 one hun Irpd and fifty German passengers, who were reported to have 
 boarded the ship at Barrios, had taken possession at Monkey River, 
 after overpowering the officers and crew; and Capt. Whidden was 
 much surprised to have the British volunteers at Belize rush aboard 
 the ship, ready to Icill the one hundred and fifty mythical Germans I 
 
 In spite of reports and prophecies, we proceeded calmly on our way, 
 very little happening to cause excitement. The morning of ;he 
 
A SUMMER IN 
 
 fourth day out, we sighted several whales some distance away, and 
 even tried to get snapshots of them, but failed. The ship was not 
 exactly quiet, as we had about fifty Frenchmen aboard, going home by 
 way of New Orleans and New York, to fight for their country in the 
 European war. They had gathered at Barxios from various districts 
 of Guatemala, where they were engaged in business, and all were en- 
 thusiastic and patriotic, from the commander of the party, a young 
 officer of twenty-five, down to the oldest man, who was leaving a wife 
 and seven children. Even the Captain would not promises to be re- 
 sponsible for the action of the "Fienchies," when Julia and Catsey 
 quavered out a duet on "Die Wacht am Rhein" from the upper deck 
 one night. 
 
 Early Monday afternoon we sighted land, and soon were preceeding 
 F.lowly up the very narrow channel which extends through the central 
 delta of the Father of Waters. Before emering the delta, we had 
 taken on a pilot to guide the ship up the river, as no one but a man 
 who knows the channel perfectly can pilot the ship successfully 
 through such a narrow waterway. 
 
 QUARANTINE 
 
 Quarantine Station is a short distance up the Mississippi^ and we 
 were much amused by the .fsrovernment doctors who examined the pas- 
 sengers and crew for sign of Buoonic Plague or Yellow Fever. They 
 stopped our ship in mid-stream, boarded her. and ordered up on the 
 promenade deck every person on board — passengers^ officers and crew, 
 down to the stokers and oilers in the engine room. Then the doc- 
 tors, who glared at us as if we were responsible for the plague, opened 
 cases containing hundreds of thermometers, and went the complete 
 rounds of the deck, sticking a themometer at a rakish angle in the 
 left side of each person's mouth. After doing this, they disappeared 
 and did not return for ten or fifteen minutes, during which time the 
 passengers had developed various stages of mirth, from giggles to 
 hysterics. One excitable Frenchman even bit his thermometer in 
 two. 
 
 Julia Chpster had been just a little sea&ick, and the doctors after 
 taking her temperature, glared fiercer than ever; but they allowed 
 all on board to proceed without removing them to the quarantine 
 station. 
 
 As we steamed slowly up the liver, our coming was the signal for 
 numbers of small boys in row boats to come along side as close as 
 they dared, and assail us w'th their shrill cries of "bananas," "ba- 
 nanas." It seems that occasionally the Fruit Company boats dispose 
 of overripe bananas by throwing them into the river; and with little 
 or no encouragement the boys hail each vessel, pleading shrilly for 
 bananas. It seemed frequently that a big swell from the steamer was 
 about to capsize one of the smaller crafts; but they rode the waves 
 fearlessly t.nd managed to esc^.pe disaster. 
 
CENTRAL AMERICA 
 
 A'l' HOME 
 
 We docked at New Orleans about midnight, and at seven-thirty 
 the following morning the alien inspectors came aboard. As Amer- 
 ican citizens we had no trouble or delay in entering the States On 
 landing we went through Customs, and found no complications there, 
 for we had carefully declared all our dutiable goods, and they allowed 
 our possessions to pass unchallenged. However, a greedy inspector 
 consfiscated the Icng stalk of sugar cane which Julia had brought so 
 carefully from Toledo settlement. Perhaps the poor man had missed 
 his breakfast that morning. 
 
 In the rush of getting over to the Louisville & Nashville depot, 
 Douglas forgot a box containing several gallons of guava jelly; but it 
 was later forwarded to him through the kindness of Mr. Pitts, tbe 
 city passenger agent of the L. & N., who helped u^ to make hasty 
 arrangements in order to get off on the 8:30 train. We made very 
 close connections, as we had to pass the alien inspector, go through 
 customs, cross in a cab to the L. & N. depot, have a draft cashed, 
 purchase tickets and recheck oiir baggage, all in an hour. We breath- 
 lessly tumbled aboard the train at the last minute. 
 
 V\ e six survivors of the summer trip spent our last day together 
 visiting back and forth between the New York and Cincinnati sleep- 
 ers, and meeting on common ground in the diner. But at Montgom- 
 ery at six o'clock in the evening we came to the parting of the ways, 
 and Jimmy ("lyde and Julia were taken on to Jonesboro, South Caro- 
 lina, and Montreat, North Carolina, respectively, while "Catsey" and 
 the three boys returned to the original starting point, Pulaski. 
 
 And the summer trip, that composite of varying experiences, fun 
 and seriousness, sun and shadow, seasickness and health, voyages add 
 rest, was at an end.