Copy 1 
 
 FEB 28 1S!3 
 
 Teachers College Syllabi, No. 4 Price 30 Cents 
 
 teachers College 
 Columbia XDlniverstti? 
 
 A Syllabus of a Course 
 
 ON 
 
 Elementary Woodworking 
 
 BY 
 
 WILLIAM NOYES, M.A. 
 
 ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS, TEACHERS COLLEGE 
 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 
 
 Fublilhed by 
 
 tJ^^atl^trB (HoU^QB. CdoUnnliUt Hntnrrfittg 
 
 NEW YORK CITY 
 
 '^ofiogTaph. 
 
Teachers College Syllabi, No. 4 Price 30 Cents 
 
 XTeacbets College 
 Columbia TUmveretti? 
 
 A Syllabus of a Course 
 
 ON 
 
 Elementary Woodworking 
 
 BY 
 
 WILLIAM NOYES, M.A. 
 
 ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS, TEACHERS COLLEGE 
 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 
 
 Published by 
 
 ©rarljprH OJollpgp, fliolumbta IntuprHttg 
 
 NEW YORK. CITY 
 

 Copyright, 1913, by Teachers College 
 
 13- ^1^^ 
 
 <^-o 
 
 ©CI,A34 38 2 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Introdtjction I 
 
 I Scrap Basket 4 
 
 II Picture Frame Clamp 11 
 
 III Picture Frame 14 
 
 IV Candlestick 19 
 
 V Taboret 24 
 
 VI Mallet 30 
 
 VII Pen Tray 34 
 
 VIII Blotter Holder 37 
 
 IX Trinket Box 39 
 
 X Hanging Lantern 44 
 
ELEMENTARY ^A^OODWORKING 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 The course in Elementary Woodworking, as given at 
 Teachers College, aims to give the student three main oppor- 
 tunities : 
 
 I. For the acquisition of skill in the handling of woodworking 
 tools ; 
 II. For practice in designing simple projects in wood ; 
 III. For insight into the methods and problems of woodwork 
 in the school ("Manual Training"^ shop. 
 
 I. In the following pages the outline of only the first of 
 these objects is sketched : namely, a practicable method of pro- 
 cedure in the acquisition of skill. It will be noted that the 
 course here outlined is so planned that : 
 
 1. A variety of woods is employed, each appropriate for 
 its particular project. They are cypress, whitewood, maple, 
 white pine, mahogany, chestnut, hickory, sweet gum, oak, and 
 black walnut. 
 
 2. In general, the technical processes involved increase in 
 difficulty through the series, but aesthetic considerations are not 
 sacrificed to this formula. 
 
 3. Several types of construction are employed, involving 
 such joints as end-lap, rubbed, miter, middle-cross-lap, doweled 
 butt, mortise-and-tenon, and ledge. 
 
 4. A few simple processes in copper working are included 
 because their employment considerably extends the range of use- 
 ful and ornamental projects available. 
 
 5. A variety of finishes is suggested, including several 
 methods of staining, as well as the use of such polishes as oil, 
 wax, and shellac. 
 
 In a word, the course involves a considerable variety of 
 experience in technical processes. 
 
 It is impossible, however, in these few pages to describe 
 adequately fine points of technique. For some of these, refer- 
 ences are made throughout the text to the author's books, "Hand 
 Work in W^ood" and "Studies in Wood, Design and Con- 
 struction."^ In the former book will also be found an extended 
 bibliography of other books on woodworking. But let it not be 
 
 1 The Manual Arts Press, Peoria, Illinois. 
 
2 Elementary IVoodzvorking 
 
 forgotten that however helpful books may be to the worker, they 
 cannot fill the place of class or individual instruction and demon- 
 stration. 
 
 It should not be supposed that the projects here outlined 
 constitute a hard and fast course, for new ones are frequently in- 
 troduced. Those described are offered as typical. 
 
 In addition to the projects themselves, note books and draw- 
 ings are required, as records of work accomplished. By a system 
 of interchange of blue prints and photographs the designs of 
 each student are available for all of the class. 
 
 In the chapters following, other projects involving the same 
 or similar processes are suggested and illustrations and notes on 
 these may be found in "Studies in Wood." 
 
 II. In the course as given at Teachers College, all but 
 two of the projects, the picture frame clamp and the mallet, are 
 such as to invite the worker to create his own designs. But in 
 this pamphlet no attempt is made to discuss varied designs of 
 the same project. A few general suggestions, however, may be 
 offered for help in designing. 
 
 Artistic judgment and skill of hand develop best when they 
 develop together. Drawing furnishes an invaluable means of 
 indicating and recording designs, and its constant use is recom- 
 mended, not only as a means of expression, but as a record of 
 achievement. 
 
 It is also an exceedingly valuable practice to form a collec- 
 tion of photographs of good examples of simple projects, to 
 which constant reference can be made. If these can be mounted 
 on a uniform size of mount, 83^ x 11 inches, they may be con- 
 veniently kept in a vertical letter file. 
 
 The projects here given belong in the field of the space arts 
 in which there are certain well recognized principles. These are 
 well analyzed and illustrated in the following books: "Composi- 
 tion," by Arthur W. Dow; "A Theory of Pure Design," by 
 Denman W. Ross ; "Design in Theory and Practice," by Ernest 
 A. Batchelder. To this matter of design considerable attention 
 is given in the author's "Studies in Wood, Design and Con- 
 struction." 
 
Introduction 3 
 
 It is of course impossible to reduce the subtle process of 
 designing to a formula, but there are several important steps 
 through which it may safely be said that the design of every 
 project should go. 
 
 1. The fixing of the essentials or those features which 
 make for an article's convenience in use. Under this head such 
 matters as the following are determined : 
 
 a. The approximate or definite size. 
 
 b. The kind of wood to be used. 
 
 c. The construction, including: 
 
 (i) Kind of joint or joints; 
 
 (2) Methods of opening and shutting or locking; 
 
 (3) Appliances for lifting or moving or hanging. 
 
 2. The refining of proportions: 
 
 a. of the mass as a whole ; 
 
 b. of each part to the whole; 
 
 c. of each part to each other part ; 
 
 d. of each line within itself, if it curves or is a broken 
 
 line, or is turned on a lathe. 
 
 3. Decoration. This relates to the treatment of the surface: 
 
 a. Carving, border or surface (all-over) patterns in 
 
 gouged lines or modeled. 
 
 b. Panels, carved in or constructed in. 
 
 c. Inlay or veneer. 
 
 d. Designing of accessories, handles, knobs, keys, plates, 
 
 escutcheons. 
 
 4. Finish. 
 
 a. Stain. 
 
 b. Paint. 
 
 c. Oil. 
 
 d. Wax. 
 
 e. Shellac, including French polish. 
 
 f. Varnish. 
 
 III. It is inevitable that the individual craftsman, working 
 alone, should develop certain methods and practices which are not 
 feasible with large classes. On the other hand, where a number 
 of persons are to go through essentially the same processes, as 
 in school shops, materials can often be more economically pre- 
 pared, processes can be standardized, and operations facilitated 
 by concerted action. This is true even when individual projects, 
 not group projects, so called, are undertaken. In the elementary 
 woodworking course at Teachers College these methods are pro- 
 vided for, but are necessarily omitted here. 
 
I. SCRAP BASKET 
 
 In this project the prime object is to furnish an opportunity 
 for considerable practice in sawing and planing, so that the be- 
 ginner may master these elementary processes at once, and then 
 to unite the pieces made in a useful, well-proportioned article. 
 
 Other projects that involve these fundamental processes of 
 sawing and planing are such as can be made with a number of 
 slats — for example, a leaf press, a table letter basket and a flower 
 pot screen. 
 
 The making of only one type form is described here (Fig. 
 i), but in the author's "Studies in Wood," Chapter IV, there 
 will be found suggestions for making original designs as well as 
 detailed directions for executing them, and drawings and sug- 
 gestions for other similar projects. 
 
 The pieces furnished to the student are to be cut to length 
 and dressed both sides, so that narrow surface planing may pre- 
 cede the more difficult end and broad surface planing. 
 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 
 Cypress, spruce, or other soft wood : 
 
 2 pieces, Ji" x 8" x i6". 
 
 I piece, %"x8"x8". 
 Wire brads, T/g" No. i8. 
 
 7 doz. metalene upholstering nails, No. 220, brown or green. 
 I can of penetrating oil stain, brown or green. 
 I can of prepared wax. 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 
 1. Making the 28 slats, each 3/16" x ^" x 16". 
 
 (i) Attend to the adjustments of the jack plane (see 
 "Hand Work in Wood," pp. 69-71). (2) Mark one broad sur- 
 face as the working face (see "Hand Work in Wood," p. 72). 
 If the board is slightly warped, mark the concave side. (3) Plane 
 straight and square both edges of both boards. (4) Gage, with 
 marking gage, lines on both sides of both pieces 3/16" from 
 both edges (see Fig. 2). (5) Reset marking gage, adding }4" 
 and gage lines 7/16" from edges. (6) Reset marking gage at 
 
Scrap Basket 
 
 Fig. 1. Scrap basket. 
 
6 Elementary Woodzvorking 
 
 10/ 1 6" m,"), and gage again. (7) Continue to gage spaces 
 alternately 3/16" and }i" wide until 28 slats are laid out (see 
 Fig. 2). 
 
 (8) Fasten one board in bench- vise, as in Fig. 89 in 
 "Hand Work in Wood." 
 
 Fig. \t. Gaged lines on piece to be sawed into slats. 
 
 (9) Rip-saw one board through the center of the first V^" 
 space ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 63). Saw halfway through; 
 reverse and saw the other half. 
 
 (10) In like manner, saw off the slats from the other edge 
 and from both edges of the other board. Lay aside the slats 
 sawn off, and plane again the edges of the boards, planing so as 
 just to split the 7/16" gage lines. 
 
 (it) Saw off the next slats in a similar way, plane back to 
 the next line and continue till 28 slats are sawn off. Plane the 
 other (rough) side of each slat, till the gage line is split, making 
 each slat 3/16" thick. Make all slats of uniform thickness 
 throughout. 
 
 (12) To facilitate this planing of thin slats, a device may 
 be used such as is shown in Fig. 3. The distance from the in- 
 serted cleat to the end is just less than the length of the slats 
 to be planed. 
 
 (13) Chamfer off ]/?," from both short arrises at one end 
 
Scrap Basket 7 
 
 of each slat, as in Fig. i. (Use the chisel as in "Hand Work in 
 Wood," Fig. 74.) 
 
 II. Making the bottom. 
 
 (i) Lay seven slats close side by side, measure their total 
 width, and add six times 3/16", the space between the slats, or 
 lyi". The total is the exact size of the bottom. This precau- 
 tion is taken because the thickness of the original board may not 
 have been exactly 74," . 
 
 Fig. 3. Device for holding thin strips for planing. 
 
 (2) Plane the bottom to this required size and ^" thick, 
 following the order given on page 72 of "Hand Work in Wood." 
 
 III. Making the cross cleats for frame. The piece left from 
 making the slats may be used thus : 
 
 ( I ) Smooth the two broad surfaces, taking as fine shavings 
 as possible. (2) Plane true one edge of the piece (16" long). 
 (3) Gage a line iYa" from edge. (4) Saw oflf the surplus 
 and plane to line. 
 
8 
 
 Elewentary IVoodzvorking 
 
 (5) Gage on the planed edges two lines 5/16" from each 
 broad face. (6) Saw between these two lines and plane back 
 to them, (y) Cut each of these cleats crosswise in the middle. 
 (8) Temporarily, nail all four pieces together, with the sides 
 and one end perfectly flush (Fig. 4), using 1%" No. 15 brads. 
 
 (9) In the miter box, saw the bunch as long as the bottom 
 is wide. (10) Measure 5/16" from both ends and lay out as 
 in Fig. 4. (11) Place the bunch in the miter box again and saw 
 on the outside of lines A B. (12) Chisel out the returns (C D. 
 Fig. 4)- 
 
 Fig. 4. Method of making and joining frame of scrap basket. 
 
 (13) Take the cleats apart and nail them together, reversing 
 two of them, so as to fit into the returns of the other two. Nail 
 both ways (see Fig. 4). (14) Sandpaper all the pieces with 
 sandpaper folded around a block, touching off all the sharp 
 arrises. 
 
 IV. Assembling. 
 
 (i) On one arris of one of the slats lay out the proper 
 spacing for the slats. These are 3/16" apart (see Fig. 5). With 
 
Scrap Basket g 
 
 a sharp pencil transfer this to each edge of the bottom and to 
 the outside of the frame already made. A mere dot is sufficient. 
 (2) Nail the slats to the bottom with brads (%", No. 18), 
 one brad to each slat, and that one just off the center, to make 
 room for the upholstery nail, which will be driven in later to 
 cover it. The ends of the slats are flush with the lower surface 
 of the bottom. 
 
 Fig. 5. Arrangement of slats. 
 
 (3) Tack the frame temporarily in place, lY^" from the 
 top of the slats, nailing with brads from the inside of the frame 
 at the corners. (4) Set up the basket, and see that all is square. 
 
 (5) To have something solid to nail against, cut a stick of 
 wood just the right length to fit snugly between two opposite 
 members of the frame. 
 
 (6) Nail each slat in its place on the frame, using up- 
 holstery nails and a mallet, two rows of upholstery nails at the 
 frame and one row along the bottom. 
 
 V. The feet. (8 pieces ^;' x %" x 3^"-) 
 
 (i) Saw off from the remnant (16" long) two pieces y%" 
 thick, }i" wide. (2) Saw each of these into two equal rectangular 
 pieces 7" long. 
 
 (3 ) From both ends cut out the returns with the back saw 
 and trim with the chisel. (4) Cut each of these pieces in the 
 middle at an angle of 45°, as in Fig. 6, making 8 pieces. (5) On 
 the outside of each, cut out the decoration with a veining tool 
 or a sharp knife point. (6) Chamfer the long outer arris as in 
 A, Fig. 6. (7) Nail these pieces in mitered pairs at the corners 
 
10 
 
 Elementary IVoodtvorking 
 
 of the bottom, letting them project outside of the slats just the 
 width of the chamfer. 
 
 VI. Finishing. 
 
 (i) See that all surfaces are clean of finger and pencil 
 marks. (2) x\pply the stain (Bridgeport Wood Finishing Corn- 
 
 Fig. 6. Feet of scrap basket. 
 
 pany's Penetrating Oil Stain is recommended) with a brush (i"), 
 'beginning on the inside. (3^- Wipe each portion before it dries 
 with cotton waste. See that no parts are left unstained. (4) 
 Rub hard the outer surface with cheese cloth. The more rubbing 
 the better the appearance. 
 
II. PICTURE FRAME CLAMP 
 
 The chief new processes involved in this project are boring 
 and perpendicular chiseling. Other projects that involve these 
 fundamental processes are : Pencil holders, a solitaire game, and 
 tool racks. 
 
 A pair of these arms with the attached blocks, as shown in 
 Fig. 7, make an excellent clamp for gluing together picture 
 frames. In use, they appear as in Fig. 254, "Hand Work in 
 
 Fig. 7. Picture frame clamp. 
 
 Wood." Unless they are to be used often, the arms may be 
 made of yellow poplar, but maple will stand harder and longer 
 usage. In any case, the blocks should be made of maple. 
 
 For more expHcit directions for this project and for sugges- 
 tions for other similar projects, see "Studies in Wood," 
 Chapter V. 
 
12 
 
 Elementarv Woodworking 
 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 
 4 pieces of yellow poplar: V^" x i^A" x i6". 
 6 pieces of maple: %" x i>4" x 3^". 
 8 round head screws: i^^" No. 12. 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 I. The arms. 
 
 (i) Dress up the four pieces of yellow poplar to size. 
 (2) Lay out a quarter circle at one end of each piece and trim 
 to shape with perpendicular chiseHng (see "Hand Work in 
 Wood," p. 56, Fig. y2). (3) Finish with spoke-shave ("Hand 
 Work in Wood," Fig. 120). 
 
 Fig. 8. Method of sawing stop blocks of picture frame vise. 
 
 (4) Gage center lines from end to end on both broad sides 
 of each piece. (5) Step off with the compass on these center 
 lines the points for the holes, as shown in drawing (Fig. 7). 
 
 (6) Bore the holes. Note that the hole ly^" from the 
 quadrantal end is %" in diameter. 
 
 (7) With a ^2" chisel cut out the space between each 7/16" 
 and 14" hole. Take care to make these cuts parallel to sides of 
 piece. 
 
 II. The blocks. 
 
 ( 1) Dress up six pieces of maple, %" x i]^" x 3^". (2) Lay 
 out the shape on four of these with an interior 90° angle at both 
 ends. (Fig. 8.) (3) Trim ofit" a little of all the arrises across 
 the thickness. (4) Saw out these angles with back saw, and trim 
 clean with sharp chisel. 
 
 (5) Locate a point lYz" from one end of each piece in 
 center of broad face. (6) Bore at these points holes for screws 
 
Picture Frame Clamp 13 
 
 with No. 5 gimlet bit. (7) Screw in round-headed screws, 
 i>^" No. 12, till head is Ji" from surface. 
 
 (8) In hinge pieces (the other 3^" pieces) bore holes 
 partly through with No. 5 gimlet bit. (9) Slip screws (ij4" 
 No. 12) through hole in quadrantal end of long pieces and screw 
 to hinge pieces. 
 
 (10) Oil all parts with boiled linseed oil and wipe oflf with 
 cotton waste. 
 
III. PICTURE FRAME 
 
 For a discussion of the subject of picture framing, see 
 "Studies in Wood," Chapter VI. Numerous suggestions for 
 variations and embelHshments will also be found there. 
 
 Another project involving similar processes is a glass bot- 
 tomed tea tray. (See "Studies in Wood," Chapter VI.) 
 
 The directions that follow are for a simple frame for a 
 Japanese print of a crow, as seen in Fig. 9. The size of the 
 print is 9j4" x 13^"- 
 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 
 White pine: Ji" x i" x 40". 
 
 Picture glass: g%" x 13^". 
 
 Picture backing: li" x 9^4" x I3>^". 
 
 2 dozen brads : }i" No. 18. 
 
 2 screw eyes, (l^" hole), (Brooks, No. 214^). 
 
 A little maple veneering 1/28" thick. 
 
 Manila paper. 
 
 Picture wire. 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 
 I. Making the members. 
 
 (i) Taking the wood in two pieces, each 24" long, plane to 
 exact width (i") and thickness (H"), and angles exactly square. 
 
 (2) Plow a rabbet ^" wide and Yi" deep along one arris, 
 as at A, in Fig. 10. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 79.) 
 
 (3) To prevent the fence of the plane from rubbing on the 
 bench, block up the piece to be planed on another piece, such as 
 shown in Fig. 11. 
 
 (4) Cut the miters, making the outside measure of the long 
 members 14%" and of the short members, loj/g"- Place the 
 molding in the miter box as in Fig. 12. (5) Test the opposite 
 members to see that they are of exactly the same length. 
 
 (6) Test all angles with miter square and try square. 
 iy) If necessary, trim miters with block-plane. 
 
Picture Frame 
 
 15 
 
 Fig. 9. Framcrl Japanese prints. 
 
i6 
 
 Elementary IV oodworking 
 
 II. Assembling. 
 
 (i) Make trial assembly in picture frame damp (Fig. 7) 
 with hand screw and test with try square. 
 
 A 
 
 ^ 
 
 k'^ 
 
 If 
 
 \ 
 
 Fig. 10. End view of rabbeted strip. 
 
 Fig. 11. Device for holding strips when rabbeting. 
 
Picture Frame 
 
 17 
 
 (2) Apply glue to miters, assemble, clamp up, and test for 
 squareness. (3) When dry (after 6 hours), cut saw kerfs as 
 a b in Fig. 13; apply glue to both sides of slip feathers of maple 
 veneering, and insert these in saw kerfs. 
 
 (4) Trim off surplus of slip feathers with back saw. 
 (5) Clean off glue with chisel. (6) Dress up the front surface 
 and the edges with plane cutter well sharpened and set fine. 
 (7) Sandpaper in the direction of the grain only. 
 
 / 
 
 Molding 
 
 M/fer Box 
 
 \ 
 
 Fig. 12. Position of molding in miter box. 
 
 Ill, Finishing. 
 
 (i) Stain to proper color and wax. (See "Hand Work in 
 Wood," p. 214.) (2) Cut picture backing to proper size, 9J/2" 
 X 13%"- (3) Cut glass and polish it with Bon Ami soap. 
 (4) Lay frame face down, insert glass, picture and backing, and 
 nail all in place with brads, %" No. 18, using a light hammer. 
 
 ^5) Apply a thin film of liquid glue to back of frame; 
 dampen the manila paper on one side and stretch over back of 
 frame. When dry, trim edges. 
 
 (6) Insert screw eyes, 2" from the top edge. (7) Stretch 
 picture wire between screw eyes. 
 
i8 
 
 Elementary Woodworking 
 
 Fig. 13. Kerfs cut in corners of picture frame to receive slip-feathers. 
 
IV. CANDLESTICK 
 
 The structural feature of this project is the middle cross- 
 lap joint. Other projects that involve this construction are: 
 flower pot stands, with single or double joint, a ring toss game, 
 and the base of a lamp screen. 
 
 The candlestick itself, however, has many artistic possibili- 
 ties, suggestions for which will be found in "Studies in Wood, 
 Design and Construction," Chapter V'll. Suggestions and 
 sketches of other projects may also be found there. 
 
 It is suggested that in order to become familiar with the 
 making of the joint, a practice joint be made first of white pine. 
 
 The directions which follow are for making the candlestick 
 shown in Fig. 14. 
 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 Mahogany or black walnut: 
 
 A. I piece, %" x i^" x 11". 
 
 B. I piece, 3/s" x 2^3" x 8>^". 
 
 C. I piece, Tj4" x iV/' x 3". 
 Brads, 34" No. 18. 
 
 Copper, Gage No. 20: i piece, lys" x i^" ; i piece, i" 
 X3". 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 I. The pedestal. 
 
 (i) Dress up all surfaces of piece A to ^" x i^" x 11" 
 ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 72). (2) From each dressed end 
 saw a piece 5" long, using the back saw. (See "Handwork in 
 Wood," page 66.) (3) Dress the sawn ends smooth and true. 
 
 (4) Of these pieces make the middle cross-lap joint ac- 
 cording to directions given in "Hand Work in Wood," p. 155. 
 (5) Cut with a block plane the chamfers on the ends of all the 
 pieces and with a chisel the stop chamfers on the sides. (6) With 
 a gouge of the correct curve, cut out the coves along the upper 
 arrises. 
 
 (7) Glue together the two pieces with hot glue, clamping 
 tight. When dry, clean up and sandpaper. 
 
20 
 
 Elementary Woodworking 
 
 II. The column. (i^>^" x i^>^" x 3".) 
 
 (i) Dress up the piece C square and true. (2) Mortise one 
 end into the pedestal at the cross ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 
 160.) (3) Gage the lines EF and GH (Fig. 15) and connect 
 these points with a fine pencil line to the lower corners as FI 
 and HJ. (4) Taper the two opposite sides so laid out. 
 
 Fig. 14. Candlestick. 
 
 (5) Lay out the other two sides in a similar way, as at 
 LJ and MK, and plane to shape. (6) Cut the coves to corre- 
 spond with those of the pedestal. (7) Sandpaper. (8) Glue 
 the column into its place, clamping with handscrew. 
 
Candlestick 
 
 21 
 
 III. The feet. (4 pieces, Ys" x 2" x 2".) 
 
 (i) Plane up piece B to ^" x 2" x 83/^". (2) Chamfer or 
 cove the arrises on the edges and ends as in Fig. 14. (3) Cut 
 off from both ends, pieces 2" long and bevel the inner ends as 
 in Fig. 14. (4) Chamfer or cove the ends again, cut off two 
 more pieces, and bevel. (5) Sandpaper. (6) Fasten these feet 
 in their proper places with brads (^4" No. 18) and a touch of 
 glue. 
 
 Fig. 15. Lay-out of column for candlestick. 
 
 IV. Finish. 
 
 (i) For staining mahogany make a saturate solution of 
 bichromate of potash. It dissolves readily in hot water. With 
 one part of this and three of water paint the surface and wipe 
 off at once with cotton waste. (2) When dry, rub with steel 
 wool No. 00. 
 
 (3) Oil with a mixture of one part boiled linseed oil and two 
 parts turpentine. AVipe dry and rub often and hard with a rag 
 and a little oil. If more gloss is desired, wax the surface. (See 
 "Hand Work in Wood," p. 214.) 
 
 V. The copper socket and plan.^ 
 
 (i) Cut with the snips a piece of copper, No. 20 gage, i" 
 
 1 For detailed directions for making the copper parts, see "Studies in Wood, 
 Design and Construction," Chapter VII. 
 
22 
 
 Elementary Woodworking 
 
 wide and a little longer than the circumference of the candle 
 (%" diameter). Pound this flat with mallet and file long edges 
 straight and parallel. (2) File end edges with a slight bevel as 
 in Fig. 16. (3) Hammer into a cylinder as shown in Fig. 17. 
 (4) Wrap with binding wire to hold joint tight; touch joint 
 with soldering fluid. (5) Lay a short piece of wire solder inside 
 on joint, and heat over a gas jet. When solder melts rub it 
 into place with a sharp stick. 
 
 Fig. 16. Ends of strip for socket beveled so as to butt well. 
 
 Fig. 17. Method of hammering a cylinder out of a strip. 
 
 (6) For making the pan cut out a square of copper i^" 
 square, snip off the sharp corners, and file edges smooth. 
 (7) Bore two holes in bottom (Fig. 18) and countersink. 
 
Candlestick 
 
 23 
 
 Fig. 18. Plan for candlestick. 
 
 Fig. 19. Socket and pan wired together for 
 soldering. 
 
 (8) Wire socket and pan together as in Fig. 19, and solder to- 
 gether. (9) Clean up solder with knife and polish with tripoli. 
 (10) Screw pan to top of column of candlestick. 
 
V. TABORET 
 
 Directions follow for making the simple form shown in 
 Fig. 20. Other projects which involve the joints used in this 
 taboret are foot stools and small tables, both of which are sub- 
 ject to great variety of design. 
 
 Fig. 20. Taboret. 
 
 A variety of modifications of the type shown in Fig. 21, as 
 well as suggestions for new designs for this and similar projects. 
 
Taboret 25 
 
 are to be found in "Studies in Wood, Design and Construc- 
 tion," Chapter VIII. 
 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 Cypress or chestnut : 
 
 A. 4 pieces, ^" x zV^" x 17". 
 
 B. 2 pieces, -^" x 2" x 8^". 
 
 C. 2 pieces, Kt" ^^ 2j/^" x 85^". 
 
 D. I piece, 34" ^^ 13" ^ 13"- 
 16 dowel pins, 5/16" x iVa". 
 
 4 brass mending straps, 3^" x 2", No. 60. 
 12 screws, ^", No. 4. 
 16 brads, 2 J/2", No. 12. 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 
 I. Dressing up parts. 
 
 (i) Plane up four pieces A to proper size. (2) To trim 
 ends exactly, hand screw all four together and block plane at one 
 time. (3) Plane up stretchers B and C in like manner. (4) 
 Make cross-lap joints with pieces E and C according to directions 
 given in "Hand Work in Wood," p. 155. (5) Glue up these 
 joints and hand screw. 
 
 II. Fitting stretchers to legs. 
 
 (i) Draw fine pencil line all round each leg 3^^" from one 
 end. (See Fig. 22.) (2) On inside of leg mark points 3/16" 
 from edge. These show location of stretchers. (3) On outside 
 of leg mark points %" from edge. These show location of 
 dowel pins. (4) Mark center lines on edges of stretchers B and 
 C. (Fig. 23.) (5) Draw fine pencil line across center of upper 
 end and down inside and outside of leg as CDE in Fig. 24. 
 (6) Locate points A and B (Fig. 24) for dowels. 
 
 III. Shaping the legs, 
 
 (i) Clamp two legs together edge to edge, as in Fig. 25, 
 and bore y^" hole at A halfway through. (2) Reverse and bore 
 through. (3) Repeat on all edges. (4) Draw outlines tangent 
 to these holes. (5) Work out surplus wood with draw-shave 
 and spoke-shave. 
 
26 
 
 Elementary W oodworking 
 
 Fig. 21. Working drawing of taboret. 
 
Taboret 
 
 27 
 
 Fig. 22. Lay-out of joint of lower 
 stretcher with leg. 
 
 
 Fig. 23. Centre lines AB and CD 
 marked on stretchers. 
 
 c 
 
 
 Fig. 24. Lay-out of joint of upper 
 stretcher with leg. 
 
 IV. Assembling frame. 
 
 (i) Cut 16 dowel pins, 5/16" x i^". (2) Partly point one 
 end with dowel pointer and round up other end as in Fig. 26, 
 with knife and sandpaper, (3) At the points in the legs marked 
 for dowel holes bore through the legs with a No. 40 twist drill. 
 
 V 
 
 (1 ^ 1 
 
 ;*_l/^ 
 
 r-^ 
 
 Fig. 26. Dowel pin for taboret. 
 
28 
 
 Elementary Woodzvorking 
 
 Fig. 25. Method of shaping legs. 
 
Taboret 29 
 
 (4) Put a little hot glue on each end of stretchers and nail 
 the legs to them with 2Y2" No. 12 brads, allowing heads to 
 project. 
 
 (5) Clamp all together as in Fig. 248, "Hand Work in 
 Wood," protecting the legs with soft wood blocks. (6) When 
 dry, draw out one brad at a time, bore with 5/16" bit a hole 2" 
 deep. (7) Work glue into the hole with a splinter and drive in 
 a dowel pin leaving the rounded end projecting )/%" . (8) Clean 
 off superfluous glue. (9) Sandpaper, taking pains to touch off 
 all sharp arrises. 
 
 V. Making and affixing top. 
 
 (i) Plane up the top to size, 13" x 13". (2) If the piece 
 has to be jointed, follow the directions for a rubbed joint on 
 pages 172-174, "Hand Work in Wood." (3) Lay out the oc- 
 tagon ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 108), saw off corners and 
 dress to size. (4) Chamfer arrises. 
 
 (5) At extreme ends of each upper stretcher cut out a 
 notch to receive brass mending plates (><" x 2", No. 60). 
 (6) Bore hole in middle of brass plate to receive ^", No. 4 
 screw and countersink on opposite side from the other coun- 
 tersinks. (7) Screw these into place as in Fig. 21. (8) On the 
 top laid top side down, locate the frame with the grain of the top 
 parallel to one stretcher, and screw frame into place. 
 
 (9) Stain with an appropriate color, oil with boiled linseed 
 oil, and rub. (to) To stain chestnut a brown color, expose it to 
 ammonia fumes in a closed box for 24 hours, and then oil. 
 
VI. MALLET 
 
 Some of the processes involved in making the mallet, as 
 curved planing, accurate boring, and modeling, are also to be 
 had in the blotter holder (Section VIII). Dimensions are to be 
 seen in Fig. 28. More explicit directions will be found in 
 "Studies in Wood," Chapter IX. 
 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 
 Maple: i piece, 2>4" x 25^^" x 5" for head. 
 Hickory: i piece, %" x i^" x 11" for handle. 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 I. The head. 
 
 (i) Plane up working face, working edge, width and thick- 
 ness. (2) With try square and sharp pencil draw fine center line 
 across all sides. (ABC, Fig. 2y.) (3) Locate center of two oppo- 
 site sides on these lines. 
 
 P'ig. S7. Maple block for mallet head. 
 
 (4) Bore ^" hole at these points, boring halfway through 
 from each side. Use ratchet brace and after starting, work with 
 down stroke only. (5) If the holes do not meet exactly, chisel 
 off remaining shoulder with inside bevel gouge (H")- 
 (6) Slightly elongate hole in direction of grain at one surface. 
 (Fig. 29.) (7) Lay out shape of head on broad side (Fig. 30). 
 (8) Score, with knife point, the lines for bevels at ends, EC and 
 BD (Fig. 30). 
 
Mallet 
 
 31 
 
 Fig. 28. Working drawing of mallet. 
 
32 
 
 Elementary Woodivorking 
 
 (9) Lay a piece of waste wood on the bench, the mallet 
 head on this on its side and on this, clamp a square, straight 
 piece of wood, exactly along the scored bevel line, EC, Fig. 30. 
 
 (10) Saw off surplus with cross-cut saw. Repeat at BD. 
 (11) Plane ends with jack plane cutter well sharpened and set 
 
 Fig. 29. How the handle hole tapers out. 
 
 fine. (12) Draw-shave and then plane off across grain the 
 curved outer surface. (13) Chamfer outer arris to avoid 
 splintering. 
 
 II. The handle. 
 
 (i) True up the hickory piece to ^" (full) x 1^2" x 11". 
 (2) Lay out plan of handle from center line on both broad sides. 
 
 Fig. 30. Lay-out of sides of mallet head. 
 
 (3) Bore }i" hole, i" from hand end through short axis, (4) 
 Rip-saw off waste on edges, starting from both ends. To start on 
 the tapering cut, clamp on block A (Fig. 7,2) and start sawing 
 
Mallet 
 
 33 
 
 Fig. 32. Method of 
 
 starting a saw on 
 
 a tapering 
 
 cut. 
 
 Fig. 31. Lay-out for beveled sides (seen 
 from below). 
 
 Fig. 33. Wedge for handle. 
 
 at B. (5) Save one of the pieces sawn off for wedge to be 
 used later. 
 
 (6) Spoke-shave to Hnes, keeping piece rectangular, (y) 
 Draw center lines on both edges and on ends. (8) Lay out 45° 
 chamfers along all long arrises. (9) Spoke-shave these cham- 
 fers. (10) Fit small end of handle in hole in head. (11) Spoke- 
 shave large end to elliptical section. (12) Scrape smooth and 
 sandpaper, 
 
 (13) Cut saw kerf i" deep at small end parallel with short 
 axis of ellipse at other end. (14) Make wedge as in Fig. 33. 
 (15) Drive handle in head, letting handle project Ys". (16) Dip 
 wedge in glue and drive it into saw kerf. (17) Saw off surplus 
 of wedge, and clean up. (iS) Give head two coats of shellac, 
 and rub down with steel wool. 
 
VII. PEN TRAY 
 
 The process of gouging which is characteristic of the making 
 of a pen tray is, of course, appHcable to trays for other purposes 
 as for comb and brush, pins or cHps, crumbs, trinkets, etc. 
 
 Directions follow for making the pen tray shown in Fig. 
 270, "Hand Work in Wood." Plan and cross section of this 
 are shown in Fig. 35. (See also Fig. 34.) Numerous other 
 designs and suggestions for designing, as well as more explicit 
 directions for making various kinds of trays, are to be found 
 in "Studies in Wood," Chapter X. 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 
 Sweet gum: y^" x 2^4" x 9." 
 
 Fig. 34. Pen tray and rolling blotter holder. 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 
 (i) Dress up four surfaces to size. (2) Draw center lines 
 lengthwise and crosswise on face. (3) Draw the design on stiff 
 paper, lay it on glass and with a sharp knife-point cut a stencil 
 of one-quarter of it. With this stencil lay out design on working 
 face of board. 
 
 (4) Make a depth-gage by driving a i" nail into a straight 
 strip of wood, letting the nail project the amount of the depth of 
 the trough, }i". (5) Gouge out trough of tray with i" outside 
 bevel gouge. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 60 and Fig. 82.) 
 
Pen Tray 
 
 35 
 
 ^ 
 
 '•S 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^' 
 
 "^ ^ 
 
 Fig. 35. Pen Tray. 
 
36 Elementary IVoodzvorking 
 
 Finish gouging with twisting motion of gouge, and test depth 
 frequently with depth-gage. Take particular pains at ends. 
 (6) Scrape surface of trough with cabinet scraper. For method 
 of sharpening, see p. 92 "Hand Work in Wood." (7) Sandpaper 
 the trough smooth. 
 
 (8) Carve the decorations. For simple line work, as in this 
 design, a small gouge or "veining tool" is sufficient. Cut clean 
 with a sharp tool and do not attempt to sandpaper the lines. 
 
 (9) Shape the ends, first with the chisel ("Hand Work in 
 Wood," pp. 56 and 57), chiseling as smooth as possible, and then 
 use sandpaper on a block. (10) Turning the piece on its face, 
 gouge a cove along the arris of the under side. This may be 
 made into an ogee with the chisel. (11) Scrape smooth, and 
 sandpaper. 
 
 (12) Rub all over with steel wool (No. cxd) to make as 
 smooth as possible. (13) Oil with boiled linseed oil. (14) Ap- 
 ply several coats of white shellac, rubbing each down with steel 
 wool. (15) French polish according to directions in "Hand Work 
 in Wood," p. 127. 
 
VIII. ROLLING BLOTTER HOLDER 
 
 Directions follow for the design shown in Fig. 34. For 
 other designs and more explicit directions see "Studies in Wood," 
 Chap. XL 
 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 Sweet gum : 
 
 A. I piece, ^." x 3" x 5" (full). 
 
 B. I piece, 14" X 3" x 5" (full). 
 
 C. I piece, i"x i"x2" (full). 
 I dowel, }i". 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 
 (i) The construction is shown in Fig. 36. (2) True up 
 to size the two larger pieces, A and B. (3) Locate the 'center 
 of face of each piece. (4) Bore ^" hole through B and 5/16" 
 hole through A and a 5/16" hole nearly through C. 
 
 (5) With tap belonging to screw-box cut threads in holes 
 in A and C. (6) With screw-box cut threads on dowel for two 
 inches. (7) Put a little glue in hole of piece C and screw in 
 dowel. 
 
 (8) Piece C is taken two inches long to prevent splitting 
 while boring. Cut off the surplus half inch at each end of piece. 
 (9) Lay out form on two opposite sides, chisel and gouge sides 
 into shape. (10) Lay out form on these two sides and work the 
 other two into shape, and finally, using also file and sandpaper, 
 work into circular shape and finish.^ 
 
 (11 ) Gouge the decoration on knob C and on cover B. (12) 
 Lay out curve on edge of A. (13) Saw off surplus with rip- 
 saw and smooth with the plane across the grain, holding the piece 
 in the bench vise, and tilting it with one end projecting above 
 the bench. (13) Finish the edges as at AA, Fig. 36. 
 
 (14) Sandpaper all parts thoroughly. (15) Finish with 
 oil and shellac as in the case of the pen tray. (16) Fasten a 
 pad of felt on rounded surface of block A by means of thick 
 shellac. (17) Insert blotting paper of proper size. 
 
 * This knob would better be turned on a lathe if one is available. 
 
38 
 
 Elementary Woodworking 
 
 Fig. 36 Rolling blotter holder. 
 
IX. TRINKET BOX 
 
 The variety of uses to which boxes can be put, as, for ex- 
 ample, gloves, cigars, neckties, stationery, toilet articles, cutlery, 
 not to speak of bird houses and plant boxes, gives this project a 
 constant interest. Other designs and suggestions will be found 
 in "Studies in Wood," Chapter XII. For the variety of joints 
 possible, see "Hand Work in Wood," pp. 187-190. 
 
 The directions which follow are for a box 3" deep, 4" wide 
 and 7" long, outside dimensions. (Fig. 37.) 
 
 Materials and Measur extents. 
 Black walnut or mahogany : 
 I piece, ^^"x8"x2o". 
 2 brass butt hinges: i", narrow. 
 8 flathead brass screws : V^", No. 2. 
 Brads: i", No. 18. 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 
 (i) Cut from the board 2 pieces 3" wide and 12" long, each 
 sufficient for one side and one end. (2) Dress up working face, 
 working edge, one end, the width (2%") and thickness (5/16"). 
 
 (3) From dressed ends measure 3^". Score all around 
 with knife point and cut out saw groove. (See "Hand Work in 
 Wood," Fig. 91.) Do not saw off yet. 
 
 (4) Plow rabbets 3/16" deep from face of board and 5/16" 
 wide from edge along one edge of each 12" board. (See "Hand 
 Work in Wood," p. 79.) (5) On other edge of both boards 
 plow out rabbet 3/16" deep and 3/16" wide. (See Fig. 38.) 
 
 (6) Saw off pieces 3^" (to be ends of box) and block 
 plane true. Both pieces must be exactly the same size, 5/16" x 
 2^" X 3^", and all angles square. 
 
 (7) On both ends of each side piece cut rabbets ("Hand 
 Work in Wood," p. 179, No. 24) with the shoulders 6^" apart, 
 rabbet 3/16" deep, letting surplus project as in Fig. 39. Use 
 knife, back-saw and chisel. 
 
 (8) Apply a little glue on joints (liquid glue will do), 
 clamp up as in Fig. 40, and nail sides and ends together, locating 
 
40 
 
 Elementary IVoodzvorking 
 
 Fig. 37. Trinket box. 
 
 Fig. 38. Methods of affixing the top of the box 
 
Trinket Box 
 
 41 
 
 Fig. 39. Rabbeted side of box. 
 
 brads as in Fig. 41, and driving as in Fig. 40. (9) Nail-set 
 brads, and stop up nail holes with plugs of same kind of wood 
 trimmed to fit and glued in. Set away to dry. 
 
 (10) When dry, clean up any superfluous glue and dress 
 upper edges perfectly plain. 
 
 (11) Plane bottom to exact size. Glue and brad it into 
 place. 
 
 (12) Plane top piece to thickness 5/16". Make edges true 
 and square, but the size slightly larger than necessary. 
 
 (13) Plow rabbets on all its edges, 3/16" deep, and wide 
 enough so that top will fit into place. ( 14) Glue on top, clamp- 
 ing with hand screws and with protecting boards between. (15) 
 When dry (6 hours) dress off projecting parts. 
 
42 
 
 Elementary Woodworking 
 
 Fig. 40. Method of driving brads in box. 
 
 ^ 
 
 V 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 •^\ A"-- 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 K'/i 
 
 
 .V. 
 
 
 A 
 
 Fig. 41. Location of brads in end of box. 
 
Trinket Box 43 
 
 (16) Gage two parallel lines, }i" and %" from top, on sides 
 and ends. (17) Saw box apart between these two lines. (18) 
 Dress these edges to perfect planes, so that they fit exactly. 
 (19) Set the hinges. (For directions, see "Hand Work in 
 Wood," p. 132.) 
 
 (20) Clean up thoroughly, sanding off the outer arrises ex- 
 cept those where the lid and box meet. (21) Stain with bi- 
 chromate of potash if wood is mahogany. (See above, p. 21 ) 
 (22) Rub down with steel wool. (23) Coat with Wheeler's 
 Paste Wood Filler (see "Hand Work in Wood," p. 213), No. 7, 
 for mahogany, or No. 10 for black walnut. 
 
 (24) When dry, touch up carefully with steel wool, shellac 
 and finish like tray. (See p. 36.) (25) Instead of shellac, the 
 box may be well oiled and rubbed often. 
 
X. HANGING LANTERN 
 
 A variety of designs both for hanging lanterns and wall 
 lanterns and lamp screens will be found in "Studies in Wood," 
 Chapter XIII. Only one form of hanging lantern is described 
 here. (See Fig. 43.) 
 
 Materials and Measurements. 
 Yellow poplar, 5/16" thick: 
 For the corners or stiles: 4 pieces, 5/16" x i" x 8"; 4 pieces, 
 
 5/16" X 11/16" X 8". 
 For the cross pieces or rails: 4 pieces, 5/16" x i^" x 4^"; 
 
 4 pieces, 5/16" x i%" x 4>^". 
 For the horizontal cross slats: 4 pieces, 5/16" x ^" x 4^". 
 For the muntins (vertical slats) : 8 pieces, 5/16" x ^" x 
 
 S%"; 2 cleats, 5/16" x q/i6" x 3"; i stretcher, 5/16" x 
 
 3" X SH"- 
 Manila or brown paper for lining. 
 4 screw eyes. No. 214^. 
 Copper or brass chains for suspension. 
 Corrugated fasteners, 3/16". 
 
 Method of Procedure. 
 
 (i) Dress all these pieces to size. Work with as long 
 pieces as is convenient to plane and then cut to proper lengths. 
 
 (2) Where there are a number to cut to one length, make 
 a jig by fastening a stop in miter box at proper distance and saw 
 off pieces by that means. If accurately sawn no truing is neces- 
 sary. 
 
 (3) Dress ends of stiles smooth. 
 
 (4) Shape rails, upper and lower, with chisel and spoke 
 shave. 
 
 (5) Fit cross-lap joints of slats. For direc- 
 tions for making this joint see "Hand Work in 
 Wood," p. 155. (6) Glue together. 
 
 (7) Make up corners by gluing stiles to- 
 gether, as Fig. 42. (8) When dry dress off outer ^. 
 
 . Fig. 42. Cor- 
 
 SUriaceS. ner posts of 
 
 lantern. 
 
 I — n 
 
Honaina Lantern 
 
 45 
 
 (9) Nail two slats about 9" long on a flat board 7^" apart, 
 as AA in Fig. 44. 
 
 (10) Prepare two wedges BB 8" long, 5/16" thick, and 
 tapering from 9/3" wide to a point, and a buffer strip C. 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 uri=^5 
 
 ^ 
 
 ni in 
 
 Fig. 43. Hanging lantern. 
 
FEB ^B 1913 
 
 46 
 
 Elementary Woodworking 
 
 A 
 
 
 A( |>/V 
 
 A.SA 
 
 A wN 
 
 5 
 
 u 
 
 5\ 
 
 fi 
 
 Qh 
 
 d 
 
 <» 
 
 Fig. 44. Method of clamping up the parts. 
 
 (11) Lay the pieces on one side, outside down, in their 
 proper position in this space. (12) Put in strip C and drive in 
 wedges BB. (13) See that all is square and flat as in Fig. 44. 
 
 (14) At all joints drive 3/16" corrugated fasteners. 
 
 (15) Repeat on all sides. 
 
 (16) Stain with brown oil-stain, and rub well. 
 
 (17) Cut brown or manila paper and glue on inside with 
 liquid glue. (18) Fasten in place with glue and brads two nar- 
 
Hanging Lantern 
 
 47 
 
 Fig. 45. Drawing of lantern shown in Fig. 43. 
 
 row cleats 5/16" x 5/16" x 3", as a in Fig. 45. (19) To these 
 cleats nail stretcher b, 3/16" x 3" x 5^". (20) To middle of 
 this stretcher screw a copper candle holder (socket and pan) 
 made as for project IV. (21) If electric light is to be used, 
 fasten this stretcher to the upper rail and attach socket for bulb. 
 (22) Screw four small screw eyes (No. 214^) into each 
 of the upper inside covers and attach four copper or brass chains 
 or wires for suspension. 
 
FEB 28 1913 
 
LIBKHKY Ul- UUNOKt^b 
 
 mill 
 
 013 973 739 8