mMMMMttMMMMMIMHH^HH TUP P>T> A f^TI C* A COOKBOOK 1i s«.«/ \wT V-*^ J*.. » JBww* ^hhk^ V/ A A. HOWARD Class . Book. ! _- -- COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK A BOOK OF ECONOMICAL RECIPES BY MARGARET W. HOWARD n HEAD OF DOMESTIC-SCIENCE DEPARTMENT HIGH SCHOOL OF PRACTICAL ARTS, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS GINN AND COMPANY BOSTON • NEW YORK • CHICAGO • LONDON ATLANTA • DALLAS • COLUMBUS • SAN FRANCISCO COPYRIGHT, 1917, BY MARGARET W. HOWARD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED APR 13 !9I7 GINN AND COMPANY • PRO- PRIETORS • BOSTON • U.S.A. 'CU460282 N. PREFACE This book presents a rather large collection of tested and economical recipes, in such a manner as to show their relation to one another and to the whole question of balanced meals. The plan of the book is novel, but it is hoped that it will the more commend itself to the public for that very reason. It is absolutely essential that the General Directions which accom- pany each group of recipes should be read and followed ; also that the references should be carefully traced. If the house- keeper calculates the cost of each dish as she prepares it, the columns headed Price will serve as a reasonably accurate guide to the cost of her daily meals. The book has grown out of many years of classroom work, and the arrangement is designed, by omitting all unnecessary directions, to force the student to reason out the recipes for herself. But it is a cookbook, not a textbook, and laboratory directions and explanatory text are purposely omitted. In preparing the book, the bulletins of the United States Department of Agriculture, magazines dealing with the sub- ject of food, and many standard works on dietetics and the preparation of food have been freely consulted. The author wishes to express her gratitude to the many friends who have allowed her to use their original recipes, as well as to those who have read and criticized the manuscript. MARGARET W. HOWARD CONTENTS PAGE I. Introduction i II. Water 4 Tea 4 Coffee 5 Chocolate 5 III. Mineral Salts 7 Fruit 7 Vegetables 10 IV. Starch 19 Potatoes 19 Breakfast cereals 22 Rice 23 Macaroni 25 Corn, tapioca, sago, and rice products 26 Flour 29 V. Sugar 54 Candy 54 Frostings and cake fillings 56 Pudding sauces 59 VI. Proteids 61 Milk . . 61 Cheese 62 Eggs 63 Meat 70 Gelatin 80 Poultry 82 Fish 85 Shellfish 90 Nuts and legumes — meat substitutes 93 vi THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK PAGE VII. Fats and Oils 95 Salad dressings nc Croquettes, fish balls, etc 0,9, Pastry 101 VIII. Frozen Desserts 107 IX. Canning and Preserving 109 Jelly-making no Pickling hi X. Food for Invalids 113 Fluid diet 113 Light soft diet 115 Soft, or convalescent, diet 116 XL Unclassified Recipes 117 XII. Selection of Food 137 How to plan meals 137 INDEX 147 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK ABBREVIATIONS c. = cup or cupful pk . = peck $ = cents pt = pint doz. = dozen Pkg = package dr. = drop qt = quart hp. = heaping sec = seconds hr. = hour si = slice in. = inch spk = speck lb. = pound sq = square lg. = large ssp = saltspoonful min. = minute tb = tablespoonful oz. = ounce tsp = teaspoonful THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK INTRODUCTION Food is anything which, taken into the body, rebuilds the tissues, yields heat and energy, or aids in body processes. All foods contain one or more chemical compounds, and the amounts of those compounds furnish a means of classifying foods, as follows : ( i ) Proteids, containing nitrogen, supply tissue-building materials and yield heat and energy, but, as they alone can build tissue, should not be depended upon as heat- givers. (2) Starch and sugar (carbohydrates) yield energy and heat, because they contain carbon. (3) Fats and oils (hydro- carbons) give a larger amount of heat, but are less valuable as proteid-sparers and, like starch and sugar, may be stored as fat in the body. (4) Mineral salts aid largely in forming bones, teeth, hair, and nails, and assist in the processes of digestion, assimilation, metabolism, circulation, respiration, etc. (5) Water is necessary to support life, carry away waste, soften food for digestion, and, by evaporation, keep the body at its normal temperature. Food is cooked to destroy any germs it may contain and to render it more palatable, more digestible, or both. Cooking is the preparation of food by the aid of heat. The common methods of cooking are (1) with water, as boiling, steaming, simmering, and stewing ; (2) in the oven, as roast- ing or baking; (3) by direct heat, as broiling; (4) with fat, as frying or sauteing. Careful and accurate measurements are necessary for good results in cooking. Cups which are to be filled with liquid 2 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK should be placed on a plate to avoid spilling. To fill a cup with any dry material, put the food into the cup by the spoon- ful until heaping full, and then level with the back of a case knife. Butter should be packed into the cup (or spoon) with a knife, then leveled. To measure dry material by the spoonful, dip in the spoon, fill full, then level as above. A half spoonful should be measured as above, then divided lengthwise into halves. Measure acid substances with agate or glass cups and stir with a wooden or silver spoon. Sift powdered sugar, flour, meal, etc. before and after measuring. If materials are all prepared and measured before beginning to mix the ingredients, much time and confusion may be saved. Study the recipes carefully, and if several cook- ing processes are involved, attend first to that which requires the most time. When more than one material is to be pre- pared, begin with that which will be least harmed by standing ; for example, when celery and apples are to be used as a salad, the celery should be cut up first, as the apples will discolor if exposed to the air. Use as few utensils as possible in your work, and as soon as you have finished using them, arrange them neatly for washing. Bowls, etc., which have contained eggs, starchy mixtures, cereals, or milk, should be soaked in cold water ; hot water should be used for anything which has held sugar. Greasy dishes should first be wiped with clean, soft paper (which should be burned), and then soaked in hot, soapy water. The following Table of Equivalents will be found useful, also that of Staple Foodstuffs : Weights, Equivalents, and Approxi- mate Prices. Table of Equivalents 4 saltspoonfuls (ssp.) = i teaspoonful 3 teaspoonfuls (tsp.) = i tablespoonful 1 6 tablespoonfuls (tb.) = i cup i cup (c.) = \ pint INTRODUCTION Staple Foodstuffs : Weights, Equivalents, and Approximate Prices Equivalent Measures and Weights Price Butter , Sugar (gran.) . . . Sugar (powd.) . . , Sugar (brown) . . , Flour (white) . . , Flour (whole-wheat) . Flour (graham) . . Baking-powder . , Raisins Currants . . . . , Citron Common crackers . Molasses Vinegar Vanilla extract . . . Lemon extract . . . Canned tomatoes Canned corn . . . Canned peas . . . Canned pineapple . Canned salmon . . Dried beef . . . . Chopped meat . . . Oatmeal Rolled oats . . . . Corn meal . . . . Rye meal . . . . , Rice Coffee Tea Cocoa Cornstarch . . . , Macaroni 2 C. = lb Variable 2 C. = 11. 6f-8£perlb. 2f C. = [ lb 6\ 0-8i per lb. 2|C. = lb 5^0-7^ per lb. 4 c. = lb 7 per lb. 3? c - = [ lb 7 per lb. 4i c. = lb 3^0 per lb. 2|C. = lb 42 per lb. 3 c = r II) 1 2 $-150 per lb. 3 C - = [ lb 22 <£ per lb. 3 c - = lb 22 per lb. 7 c = lb 7 per lb. 4 c =: iqt 1 2 0-i 5^ per qt. 4 c. = qt 80-IO0 per qt. 96 tsp. = ] pt $1.95 per pt. 96 tsp. = 1 pt $1.95 per pt. 4 c. = 1 ca a 12 'f-150 per can 2 c. = 1 ca a 130-150 per can 2 C. = 1 ca n 150-250 per can 2 C. = 1 ca n 17 0-250 per can 2 C. = 1 ca a 22 0-250 P er can i jar = - \ ,b 22 per jar 2 c. = lb Variable 2^ c = c lb 5 per lb. 4| c = r lb 5 per lb. 2|C. = [ lb 3 per lb. 4|c. = lb 4 per lb. I| c. = [ lb io0 per lb. 4C. = lb 30 0-4O per lb. 6 c. = [ lb 50 per lb. and upwards 3l c - = [ lb 40 per lb. 3 C - = lb 10 0-i 2 per lb. 4 c. = r lb 15 per lb. II WATER Boiling (temperature 2i2°F.): much steam in puffs; bub- bles large and move rapidly. Simmering (temperature about 1 8 5 F.) : vapor rises; bubbles small and move slowly. Luke- warm (temperature about 98 F.) : neither hot nor cold to hand. TEA Source. Leaves of tea plant, grown in India, China, Japan, and Ceylon. Varieties, green or black. Many grades. Food Value. None. Contains theine, a nerve stimulant ; and tannin, which tends to impair digestion. Cost. Tea, 50$ per lb. and upwards. 6 c. = 1 lb. Boiling Water Tea Sugar Tea Russian tea (hot) Russian tea (cold) 4 c. 4 c. 4 c. 2 tsp. 2 tsp. 2 tsp. 8 tsp. 4 tb. 4 slices 1 Tea. Scald an earthen or agate teapot, put in the tea, pour over it the boiling water ; let stand on back of stove 5 min. and serve. Never boil tea nor use a tin teapot, as the action of the tannin is thereby increased. A tea ball containing the tea may be suspended in the teapot and the boiling water poured over it. Russian tea. Make Tea (above) and put a slice of lemon and 2 tsp. sugar in each cup when serving. Iced Russian tea. Add sugar and lemon juice to Tea (above). Strain and ice when cold. 4 WATER 5 COFFEE Source. Seeds of coffee berry, grown in most tropical countries. Food Value. Same as tea ; contains caffeine instead of theine. Cost. Coffee, 30 <£ to 40^ per lb. 40.= ! lb. Boiled coffee . . Percolator coffee . Filtered coffee Boiling Water 4 C 4 C. 4 C. 8 tb. 8 tb. # c. 2 tb. Cold Water Price Boiled coffee. Scald an agate or aluminum coffeepot. Mix egg, using part of shell, with half the cold water and add to the coffee. Put into coffeepot, pour on it the boiling water, and boil hard for 3 min. Clear the spout, pouring back the coffee ; add remainder of cold water and let stand on back of stove for 10 min. Serve with cream or scalded milk. Percolator coffee. Scald the percolator ; put coffee into the upper part and boiling water into the lower. Boil until coffee is of the strength required. Filtered coffee. Scald coffeepot and place in a pan of boil- ing water. Put the coffee, which should be finely ground, into the strainer, place in coffeepot, and pour water through slowly. Serve at once, without boiling. CHOCOLATE Source. A product of the cocoa bean, grown in tropical countries. Many varieties. Food Value. Contains fat, starch, and protein. Cost. Chocolate, 38 $ per lb. 16 sq. = 1 lb. Cracked cocoa, 34^ per lb. 2§ c. = 1 lb. Powdered cocoa, 40 per lb. 3^ c. = 1 lb. Cocoa shells, 6 $ per lb. 8 c. = 1 lb. THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Water Sugar Price Chocolate Cocoa . . . . Cracked cocoa . Cocoa shells tb. 2 C. I C. 6c. 4 c. 2 tb. 6 tsp. Chocolate. Scald milk. Scrape the chocolate, add sugar and a little of the water, and cook until smooth. Add remainder of water gradually and boil gently for 5 min. Add to the scalded milk and beat with an egg-beater before serving, i tsp. vanilla may be added if desired, and the chocolate served with whipped cream. Cocoa. Make as above, mixing cocoa with sugar, then adding slowly all the water. Cracked cocoa. Simmer gently for 2 hr. or longer. Do not throw away the cracked cocoa ; by adding a little fresh each day it may be used for several days. Cocoa shells. Put the cocoa shells into a coffeepot with cold water and boil steadily for at least 1 hr. (This may be reheated if all is not used.) Serve with hot milk, cream, and sugar. Ill MINERAL SALTS FRUIT Dried Fruits Source. General. Food Value. Chiefly for mineral salts ; some for sugar. Cost. Apples, 1 5 ^ per lb. Apricots, 20 <£ per lb. I 2 a c# _ x lb. Peaches, 20$ per lb. Prunes, 16 ^ per lb. , Figs, 2 2<£ per lb. 1 c. = 1 lb. Dates, i20 per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. Dried-apple sauce. Allow 1 c. of fruit for four servings. Wash thoroughly, cover with cold water, soak for several hours, and cook gently in same water till soft. About 15 min. before removing from fire add sugar to taste. The flavor is improved by the addition of a few slices of lemon with the sugar. Strain before serving. Stewed apricots. Make as above, omitting lemon. Do not strain. Stewed peaches. Make like Stewed apricots (above). Stewed prunes. Allow 2 c. for four servings. Cook like Dried-apple sauce (above), without straining. Stewed figs. Use pulled figs .when possible. Wash and examine carefully ; soak for 1 hr. in water enough barely to cover. Use same water for cooking them and simmer gently till tender. Sugar and a little lemon juice may be added after cooking if desired. Serve with or without whipped cream. May be cooked in a double boiler. 7 8 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Stuffed prunes. Cook as for Stewed primes (p. 7). When fruit is soft, remove the stones carefully, place half a walnut in each cavity, and roll prune firmly round it. Place fruit, when prepared, in a serving-dish and pour over it the sirup left from cooking the prunes. The sirup should be rather sweet. Serve with cream (plain or whipped). Stuffed dates. Dates will not require soaking, but should be washed and dried thoroughly. Remove the stones with a sharp knife and refill the dates with nuts, crystallized ginger, fondant, peanut butter, or cream cheese, made into small rolls after seasoning with a little salt and paprika. When nuts, ginger, or fondant are used, roll the dates in powdered sugar and serve as a confection. Cheese dates or nut-butter dates may be served with a salad or after dinner with crackers. Fresh Fruits Source. See Dried Fruits. Food Value. See Dried Fruits. Cost. A PP les . 35 per pk. 40 to 50 = 1 pk. Cranberries, 10$ per qt. 4C. = 1 qt. Pineapples, 20$ each. Bananas, 2 5 per doz. Grapefruit, 8$ each. Rhubarb, 3 $ per lb Oranges, 30 per doz. Lemons, 25 per doz. Fruit Sugar Water Cinnamon Lemon Price Baked apples .... 4 8 tb. I c. i tsp. — Stuffed apples 4 8 tb. I C. — — Glazed apples . 4 1 c. 2 C. — i Apple sauce . 4 1c •1 C 2 C. — — Cranberry sauce 2 c. I c. I C. — — Cranberry jelly 2 c. I c. |c. — — Baked bananas 4 1c. — i Fruit macedoine 2 c. ic. — 1 3 Fruit punch I c. *c. 3 c — — Rhubarb sauce 4 c. I c. ic. — — MINERAL SALTS 9 General Directions. Fruit should be kept in a cool place and should be thoroughly washed before being used for the table or for cooking. All decayed portions should be carefully removed. Apples must be pared, except for baking ; cran- berries should be picked over thoroughly ; grapefruit should be cut in halves, the seeds removed, and the pulp separated from the tough membrane ; pineapples should be pared, the eyes removed with a sharp knife, and the fruit shredded with a silver fork ; bananas should be peeled and scraped ; oranges for slicing should be pared with a sharp knife in order to re- move the thin as well as the thick skin, and sliced so that the core will not be included ; lemons should be cut crosswise, not from stem to blossom end ; rhubarb, when young and tender, should not be peeled, as the red skin gives an attractive color to the sauce. Baked apples. Pare and core apples (or, if it is desired to retain the color, do not pare) ; put in a buttered baking- dish, fill centers with sugar and spice mixed, pour the water around them, and bake in a moderate oven until soft, basting occasionally. The dish should be covered. Stuffed apples. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. raisins, 2 tb. chopped nuts. Mix these with the sugar, which may be either brown or white, and proceed as above. Serve with whipped cream. Glazed apples. Boil sugar and water gently for 5 min. Quarter and core the apples ; put \ the pieces into the sirup, removing when soft ; put in the remainder of the apples and cook in the same way. When all are cooked, strain sirup over them. Lemon rind, thinly pared, may be cooked in the sirup if the apples are not sour, or a bit of stick cinnamon or ginger root may be added. Apple sauce. Quarter the apples and cook with the water until soft enough to rub through a strainer, adding sugar and spice about 10 min. before removing from fire. If sauce is desired unstrained, core the apples before cooking. 10 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Cranberry sauce. Add sugar and water to berries ; cover and boil 10 min. Strain if desired. Cranberry jelly. Cook berries with the water for 15 min. Strain, rubbing as much as possible through sieve, add sugar, cook 5 min., and pour into a mold or glasses. Baked bananas. Cut bananas in quarters, lengthwise, and place in a buttered baking-dish. Mix sugar and lemon juice, adding 1 tb. melted butter if desired ; spread this mixture over the fruit and bake in a slow oven till bananas are soft, basting with the juice at least once. May be served with whipped cream or as a vegetable. Fruit macedoine. Oranges, grapefruit, bananas, pineapples, peaches, and strawberries may be used, combining two or more kinds. Fruit should be prepared according to General Directions, then mixed with the sugar and lemon juice and chilled before serving. May be used as a dessert, or, under name of " fruit cocktail," as the first course for a formal luncheon. Fruit punch. Use juice of fruit only. A good combination is made by using 1 lemon, 1 orange, and -|- c. grape juice or i c. strong tea. Boil sugar and water, then add the fruit juice. It is better to chill the punch than to add ice to it. Rhubarb sauce. Cut rhubarb into inch lengths and put into an agate or porcelain-lined saucepan with just enough water to cover bottom. Cook until soft and sweeten to taste. May also be baked until soft. VEGETABLES Winter Vegetables Source. Roots, tubers, stems, leaves, bulbs, fruit, or flowers of various plants. Food Value. Principally for mineral salts, acids, and crude fiber. Some contain starch. Cost. See market prices. MINERAL SALTS 1 1 Vege- tables Boiling Salted Water Butter Salt Pepper Hot Milk Flour Price Buttered carrots . 4 2 qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste _ — Buttered parsnips 4 2qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste — — Mashed turnips . 4 2 qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste — — Stewed celery . . i bunch 2qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste I c. — Buttered beets 4 2qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste — — Boiled onions . . 8 2qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste I c. — String beans . . 2 qt. 2 qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste — — Spinach .... ipk. I c. 2 tb. To taste To taste — — Cauliflower . . . i 2qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste 2 C 4 tb. Cabbage .... 2 lb. 2qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste — — Squash .... 2 lb. 2 qt. 2 tb. To taste To taste — — General Directions. All vegetables should be thoroughly washed, prepared according to kind, and, if necessary, fresh- ened by standing in cold water for an hour or more before cooking. Then cook in enough freshly boiling salted water to cover the food. When soft enough to pierce easily with a fork, drain very dry and season. Strong-flavored vegetables should be cooked in an uncovered kettle. Buttered carrots. Scrape carrots and cook i to 2 hr. Slice or cut in strips either before or after cooking. Add required seasonings or serve in i c. white sauce. Buttered parsnips. Same as for Buttered carrots (above). May be cut in quarters, lengthwise, and browned in hot butter or drippings. Mashed turnips. Pare turnips and cut in quarters. Cook about i hr. After cooking, mash and add required seasonings. May be cut in cubes before cooking and served in a white sauce. Stewed celery. Scrape celery and cut in inch lengths. Cook \ hr. Add required seasonings or serve in i * c. white sauce. Buttered beets. Cook beets 3 to 5 hr. Peel and slice after cooking and season as required, or chop fine and reheat with the seasonings, adding 1 tb. butter. 12 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Pickled beets. Cover cold cooked beets with vinegar, add- ing a bit of bay leaf and a few cloves and peppercorns. Boiled onions. Peel under water and let stand 1 to I hr. in cold water to which a little cooking-soda has been added. Drain and add fresh water at least twice while cooking. Cook ii to 2 hr. Serve with required seasonings or add i *- c. white sauce. String beans. Pare thinly on both sides to remove strings, cut off ends, and cut in inch pieces. Cook i to 2 hr. Season as required. Spinach. Cut off roots and poor leaves, wash in several waters, and cook 20 to 30 min. in a very little water, to re- tain juice. Chop fine and season with salt, pepper, and butter, and garnish with hard-cooked egg. Beet and dandelion greens, Swiss chard, etc. may be cooked like spinach. Bechamel spinach. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. flour, ^ c. milk. Cook spinach as above, drain, and chop. Melt butter, add spinach, heat, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and flour. Add hot milk, stir till well blended, and serve hot. Cauliflower. Remove outside leaves and soak in cold water (head down) for J hr. Cook whole, or separate into flowerets. Cook 30 to 60 min. Serve in a white sauce made from required seasonings. Cabbage. Prepare as for Caulifloiver (above), quartering be- fore cooking. Cook 2 to 3 hr. May be chopped, and seasoned or served in a white sauce. Squash. Cut in pieces and remove seeds. May be pared before or after cooking. Will be drier if steamed instead of boiled, but a longer time will be required. Cook 1 to i-|- hr., mash, and season. Summer and Fall Vegetables Source. See Winter Vegetables. Food Value. See Winter Vegetables. Cost. See Winter Vegetables. MINERAL SALTS 13 Vege- table Boiling Water But- ter Salt Pepper Bread Crumbs Milk Flour Price Asparagus . . . I bunch 3 qt- 3tb. i tb. itsp. — — — Green peas . . 4 qt. 2 qt. 2 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. — — — Shell beans . . 3 qt- 2 qt. 2tb. 1 tsp. i tsp. — — — Green corn . . S ears 3 qt- — 1 tb. — — — Stuffed peppers . 4 — 4 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. i£ c. — — Eggplant . . . 1 Creamed salsify . 1 bunch 2qt. 2tb. 1 tsp. itsp. — 2 C. 4 tb. Brussels sprouts . 1 qt. 2 qt. 2tb. 1 tsp. i tsp. — 2 C. 4 tb. Stewed tomatoes f2lb.,or I 1 qt. — 2tb. 1 tsp. i tsp. ic. — — Scalloped toma- toes .... 1 qt. — 4tb. 1 tsp. itsp. I c. — — Baked tomatoes . 4 — 4 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. — — . — Jerusalem arti- chokes . . . 4 2qt. 2tb. 1 tsp. — — 2 C. 4 tb. Succotash . . . 3 C - — 2 tb. itsp. itsp. — I C. — Summer squash . 1 2qt. 2 tb. itsp. i tsp. — — — General Directions. All vegetables should be thoroughly washed and cooked till tender in freshly boiling, salted water (^ tb. salt to 1 qt. water) unless otherwise directed. Asparagus. Remove white part of stalk and tie in bunches. Cook about 20 min. When asparagus is soft, drain well and place on slices of buttered toast which have been previously dipped in the water in which the asparagus was cooked. Season with required seasonings. Green peas. Shell and wash. Cook | to il hr. according to age. Drain and season. Shell beans. Prepare like Green peas (above). Will require at least 1 hr. to cook. Green corn. Remove husks and silk as soon as corn comes from market. Wash before cooking. Requires 20 to 30 min. to cook and is done when no juice appears if corn is pricked with a fork. 2 tsp. sugar may be added to water while cooking. Serve wrapped in a napkin. 14 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Stuffed peppers. Additional ingredients: 4 tb. chopped meat or 6 tb. grated cheese. 1 tsp. scraped onion may be used with meat. Remove stem end and seeds from the peppers and parboil 10 min. Drain thoroughly, turning upside down to dry, and fill with a stuffing made from the stale bread crumbs and the seasonings, adding enough boiling water to moisten well. Bake 25 to 30 min. in a moderate oven and serve with or without toast and Broxvn sauce (p. 30). Eggplant. Wash eggplant and cut in l-inch slices. Pare, pile slices together with plenty of salt between them, cover with a plate and weight, and let stand several hours. Drain, wash well in cold water, and dry. Dip in batter or in egg and crumbs, as for croquettes, and saute or fry in deep fat. Stuffed eggplant. Eggplant may be parboiled and stuffed like peppers. Creamed salsify. Scrape salsify, cut in |-inch slices, and let stand for \ hr. in cold water to which 1 tb. vinegar has been added. Drain, cook in boiling water till tender (| to 1 hr.), then drain again and serve in a white sauce made from remaining ingredients. Brussels sprouts. Wash well and change water several times while cooking, keeping kettle uncovered. Cook 20 to 30 min. ; drain and finish as for Creamed salsify (above). Stewed tomatoes. Peel tomatoes by pouring boiling water on them and drawing off the skin. Quarter and cook in a double boiler until perfectly soft. Add seasonings. Bread crumbs may be omitted and 2 tb. sugar added. Scalloped tomatoes. Peel as above and slice the tomatoes. Melt butter and add to it the crumbs, which should be fine and dry. Place tomatoes in a buttered baking-dish in two layers ; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and crumbs, with more crumbs on top than between the layers. Bake 35 to 45 min. in a moderate oven. Stuffed tomatoes. Instead of peeling and slicing the toma- toes, a small section may be removed from the center and the crumbs and seasonings used for a stuffing, as for peppers. MINERAL SALTS 15 Baked tomatoes. Additional ingredient : 2 tb. chopped green pepper. Cut tomatoes in halves and place, skin side down, in a buttered baking-dish. Dot with bits of the butter and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the chopped pepper. Bake till tomatoes are soft, and serve on slices of buttered toast, with or without 1 c. white sauce poured round them. Jerusalem artichokes. Peel and cook in boiling water till tender (45 to 60 min.). Drain and cut in cubes. Serve in a white sauce made from the milk etc. Succotash. Make from left-over or canned vegetables, or cook fresh ones. Allow equal parts of shell beans and of corn cut from the cob. Heat with the seasonings and serve hot. Summer squash. Cut in quarters, pare, and remove seeds. Cook till tender but not watery (30 to 40 min.), drain and mash, then drain again and season. Salad Plants Source. Leaves, stems, fruits, or roots of various plants. Food Value. Chiefly for mineral salts and cellulose. Cost. Variable. Under this topic are grouped vegetables which may be served raw ; some of them are also included in the lessons on cooked vegetables. Lettuce, endive, romaine, and chicory. Cut off the root, separate the leaves, examining them carefully and rejecting wilted portions, then wash thoroughly in cold water, changing it at least twice. Shake the leaves well,' wrap in cheesecloth, and place on ice until wanted. Serve plain or with French dressing (p. 95). Cucumbers. Wash, pare, slice thin, and allow cucumbers to stand in ice water for at least 1 hr. before serving. Drain and serve with cracked ice or with French dressing (p. 95). Radishes. Cut off leaves and stem ; scrape radishes or pare in 4 sections, leaving skin attached at one end. Let stand in cold water till ready to use. Serve on cracked ice. i6 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Celery. Cut off root and leafy portions, wash them, and save for soup. Scrape the stalks of celery thoroughly and wash well. Let stand in cold water till ready to use. Tomatoes. Pour boiling water over the fruit, let stand a few minutes, then peel quickly. May be served whole or sliced and should be well chilled before using. Cabbage. Shred tender cabbage leaves very fine and let stand in cold water for i hr. Drain and dry thoroughly. Serve with French dressing (p. 95) or Cooked salad dressing (p. 68) or add sugar and vinegar before sending to table. Watercress. Remove coarse stems, wash very thoroughly, and proceed as for lettuce. Vegetable Soups Fresh and Canned Vegetables Source. See Vegetables and Milk. Food Value. See Vegetables and Milk. Cost. See market prices and prices of individual items. Water Milk Flour Salt Pepper Onion Tomato soup . Tomato bisque Green-pea soup Celery soup . Potato soup . Corn soup . . 4 c. 3 c 2 C. 2 C. 4c. 4 c. 3 C - 4 c. 2 C. 2 C. 3c 2 C. 6tb. 6tb. 3 tb. 6tb. 3 tb. 3 tb. 3 tb. 3tb. 2 tb. 3 tb. 2 tb. 2 tb. i tsp i tsp. i tsp, i tsp. i tsp. i tsp. itsp i tsp J tsp £ts P itsp Itsp i tb. i tb. i tb. i tb. i tb. i tb. General Directions. Cook vegetable in water until soft (15 to 30 mm.) and rub thoroughly through a strainer. Add more water if it boils away much. There should be about 4 c. of the vegetable stock. Scald onion in milk, or chop it and cook 5 min. in the butter, being careful not to brown it. Add flour to butter and stir into this mixture the hot milk, as for White sauce, Method I (p. 30). Combine with the stock, reheat, season, and serve. 1 tb. chopped parsley may be added. MINERAL SALTS 17 Tomato soup. Use the water for preparing the thicken- ing and measure tomato after stewing and straining. 3 or 4 whole cloves and 3 or 4 peppercorns may be cooked in the tomato, and stock may be substituted for water. Tomato bisque. After cooking and straining tomatoes, add i- tsp. cooking-soda and stir until effervescence stops before pouring into the thickened milk. Do not combine the two mixtures till ready to serve, as the soup is likely to curdle if allowed to stand. 3 tb. cornstarch used in place of flour will help to prevent the soup from curdling. Green-pea soup. Make according to General Directions. Celery soup. Make according to General Directions. Potato soup. Use freshly cooked or cold mashed potatoes, measure, and add liquid, then reheat and combine with a white sauce according to General Directions. Corn soup. Make according to General Directions. Dried Vegetables Source. Seeds of leguminous plants. Food Value. Contain both protein and starch. Cost. Pea beans, 1 8 per qt. 2 c. = 1 lb. Split peas, 15 per qt. 2 c. = 1 lb. Lima beans, 8 per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. Kidney beans, 2 2 per qt. 2 c. = 1 lb. Black beans, 25^ per qt. 2 c. = 1 lb. Lentils, 20 $ per lb. 4 c. = 1 lb. Milk Flour Salt Pepper Onion Price Split-pea soup . . Baked-bean soup . 1 c. 3 C - 8 c. 4 c. 3 tb. 3 ^. 1 tsp. 1 tsp. itsp. i tsp. General Directions. Pick over and wash the vegetable and soak several hours or overnight. Drain and add measured water and small onion, with a 2-inch cube of salt pork if desired. Cook gently 5 or 6 hr. until liquid is reduced one half. 1 8 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Remove salt pork and rub vegetable through a strainer to remove skins. Melt butter, add flour and enough stock to make mixture thin enough to pour. Add to rest of stock, stir until it boils, season, and serve. Milk may be added or not. If used, it may be mixed with butter and flour as for White sauce, Method I (p. 30). If too thick, soup may be thinned with milk or water, and water must be added if it boils away. For the following soups use vegetables indicated by the titles : Split-pea soup. Follow General Directions. Lima-beau soup. Make like Split-pea soup. Kidney-bean soup. Make like Split-pea soup. Black-bean soup. Make like Split-pea soup, and just before serving add 2 hard-cooked eggs and lemon, thinly sliced. Lentil soup. Make like Split-pea soup. Baked-bean soup. Make like Green-pea soup (p. 1 7), using 2 c. stewed and strained tomato in place of the milk if preferred. Vegetable Chowders Source. General. Food Value. Contain both protein and starch. Cost. See market prices and prices of individual items. Vegetable "I chowder j Founda- tion lie. Water 4 C. Salt Pork 2 tb. But- ter tb tsp, Pep- per itsp. itb. Price Vegetable chowder. For foundation use 1 c. canned beans or peas and ^ c. corn. (Cooked dried vegetables may be used.) Cook these in the water for 10 min. Slice, parboil, and drain the potatoes. Try out the salt pork, add onion, and cook till yel- low. Add the potatoes and vegetables to this with the stock and cook till potatoes are soft, then add the milk (scalded) and the seasoning, with crackers if desired. Corn choivder. Make as above, and for foundation use canned corn or fresh corn cut from the cob. IV STARCH POTATOES White Potatoes Source. Tubers of the white-potato plant, grown in temperate climate. Food Value. Contains starch, mineral matter, and a little protein. Cost. Potatoes, variable. 40 to 50 potatoes =1 pk. Potatoes Milk Flour Butter Salt Pepper Price Baked potatoes .... 4-6 Stuffed potatoes . 4-6 i c. — 2 tb. i tsp. itsp. Boiled potatoes 4-6 — — — 1 tsp. — Mashed potatoes . 4-6 Ic. — 2 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. Potato cases . . . 4-6 — — 1 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. Franconia potatoes 4-6 — — — 1 tsp. itsp. Creamed potatoes 2 c. 2 C. 4 tb. 2 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. Scalloped potatoes 2 c. 2 C. 3 tb. iitb. 1 tsp. itsp. Chopped potatoes 2 c. — — 3 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. Lyonnaise potatoes 2 C — — 3 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. Potato cakes . . . 2 C. — 1 tb. — — Potato puff . . . 2 C. $C. — 2 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. Sauted potatoes 2 C. — 4 tb. 4 tb. 1 tsp. itsp. General Directions. Choose potatoes of uniform size, wash, and scrub ; pare thinly except for baked potatoes. For the last seven recipes use cold boiled or baked potatoes. The latter should be peeled while warm, as the skin gives an unpleasant flavor when cold. Cut potatoes into i-inch slices, then into cubes, before reheating. Potato cakes and Potato puff may be l 9 20 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK made by ricing cold potatoes or by using cold mashed potato. 2 or 3 potatoes should make i c. potato cubes. Baked potatoes. Put into a pan and bake in a moderate oven until soft. Allow I to ii hr. Prick with a fork, to let steam escape and make potatoes dry and mealy. Cover with a cloth until ready to serve. Stuffed potatoes. Prepare and bake as above ; cut in halves lengthwise or, if small, remove one end. Scrape out potato with a small spoon, being careful not to break skin. Mash the potato, add seasonings, beat well, return to shells, and brown in a hot oven. From ^ to I c. chopped meat, fish, or cheese may be added to potato, making a good luncheon or supper dish. Boiled potatoes. Wash potatoes and pare thinly. Put into i qt. boiling water with ^ tb. salt and boil until they can be pierced easily with a fork. Drain thoroughly, return to saucepan, sprinkle with salt, and set on back of stove till dry and mealy. Do not cover, as that keeps in the steam and makes the potatoes moist. Mashed potatoes. Prepare potatoes and cook like Boiled po- tatoes. When dry and mealy, mash thoroughly in saucepan used for cooking them, add other ingredients, beat well with a fork, and when light and creamy set in a hot place until ready to serve, or put into a buttered baking-dish and brown in a hot oven. Potato cases. Cook as for Mashed potatoes (above), using a ricer or strainer to remove lumps. Omit milk and add yolk of I egg. Shape into cases and brown in hot oven. Cases may be filled with creamed meat, fish, or eggs or with scrambled eggs. This mixture may also be shaped into cones or balls and browned. Franconia potatoes. Prepare as for boiling and cook 1 5 min. Drain, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and flour, place in a pan with meat that is being roasted, and cook till potatoes are soft, basting occasionally with the drippings. Creamed potatoes. Prepare potatoes ; make a white sauce of other ingredients and heat potatoes in this. Scalloped potatoes. Make a white sauce of the necessary in- gredients, put potatoes into a buttered baking-dish or ramekins, STARCH 21 pour sauce over them, sprinkle with buttered crumbs (3 tb. melted butter to 1 c. crumbs), and bake until crumbs are brown. 1 c. cold cooked meat, fish, or eggs, with or without 1 c. grated cheese, may be combined with the potatoes. Meat should be chopped, fish flaked, and eggs cooked hard and sliced. This makes a nutritious dish for lunch or supper when meat etc. is used. Delmonico potatoes. Add % c. chopped cheese to the sauce and proceed as for Scalloped potatoes. Chopped potatoes. Season potatoes with salt and pepper ; heat butter in frying-pan and when brown put in the potatoes and stir till well browned. Drippings or pork fat. may be used in place of all or part of the butter. Lyonnaise potatoes. Cook like Chopped potatoes, browning 1 tsp. finely chopped onion in butter before adding potatoes. Potato cakes. Measure cold mashed potatoes and shape into round, slightly flattened cakes. Heat the butter in a frying-pan, put in the cakes, and when well browned on one side, turn and brown the other. Potato puff. Add the seasonings to cold mashed potato. Beat well, put into a buttered baking-dish, and bake until brown. Sauted potatoes. Slice the potatoes and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Dip each slice in the flour and brown on both sides in hot butter. Drippings of any kind may be substituted for the butter. Sweet Potatoes Source. Enlarged roots of sweet-potato plant, grown in warm climates. Food Value. Valuable as a source of both starch and sugar. Cost. Sweet potatoes, 5 to 8 lb., 25^. Baked sweet potatoes. Follow recipe for Baked potatoes (p. 20). Stuffed sweet potatoes. Follow recipe for Stuffed potatoes (p. 20), omitting milk if sweet potatoes are moist. 22 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Boiled sweet potatoes. Peel after cooking instead of before ; otherwise follow recipe for Boiled potatoes (p. 20). Mashed sweet potatoes. Proceed as for Mashed potatoes (p. 20). Chopped sweet potatoes. Proceed as for Chopped potatoes (p. 21). Glazed sweet potatoes. Cut boiled sweet potatoes into slices and arrange in a buttered baking-dish in layers with brown sugar and butter (| c. sugar and 1 tb. butter to 2 medium-sized potatoes). Sprinkle with salt and add enough water to moisten slightly. Bake until golden brown. BREAKFAST CEREALS Source. Seeds of various grains. Food Value. Largely composed of starch ; contain protein also. Cost. Rolled oats, 5 $ per lb. 6 c. = 1 lb. Granular cereals, 7 per lb. 2§ c. = 1 lb. Hominy, 4^ per lb. Corn meal, 3 per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. 3 c. = 1 lb. Rolled oats . . Granular cereals Hominy . . . Hominy cakes Corn-meal mush Cereal I C. H Salt I tsp. I tsp. i tsp. £tsp. 1 tsp. Boiling Water 3 C. 4 c. Butter i tb. Egg Yolk Flour 2 tb. 2 tb. Price General Directions. Cook all cereals in a double boiler, looking them over carefully when measuring, and allowing time for a thorough cooking. Add water from time to time if necessary. Cooked cereals may be molded in a moistened bread-pan, sliced when firm, and browned in hot fat. Any cereals may be cooked in a tireless cooker. They should be prepared as above, boiled in one of the containers for 10 min., STARCH 23 then placed in the cooker with a hot soapstone and cooked from 2 to 12 hr., according to the kind. Rolled oats. Put all ingredients into top of double boiler, set directly over heat, and stir until mixture boils. Then set over hot water, cover, and steam 30 to 40 min., adding more water if too stiff. Preparations of rolled wheat may be cooked in this way, varying the amount of water if necessary. Granular cereals. Put water and salt in top of double boiler, set on stove, and when boiling sift in cereal, stirring constantly. Proceed as above. Hominy. Cook as for Rolled oats (above), allowing 3 to 6 hr. May be cooked the day before and reheated. Cook Whole oatmeal and Cracked wheat like Hominy. Hominy cakes. Additional ingredient : I tsp. paprika. Use cold cooked hominy. Add all ingredients except flour to hominy, mix well, shape in round, slightly flattened cakes, dip in flour, and brown in hot fat. Corn-meal mush. Mix meal and flour with \ c. cold water and add enough more boiling water to make 4 c. Put into double boiler, add salt, and stir until thick. Cook 1 to 2 hr., adding more water if too thick. Flour may be mixed with meal and part milk used in place of the water if desired. Serve as a cereal for breakfast. RICE Source. Seeds of rice plant, grown in hot climate. Food Value. Richest in starch of all cereals. Little protein. Cost. Rice, io<£ per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. Steamed rice Boiled rice . . Rice and cheese Rice and tomato Rice and salmon Rice I c. I c. f c. f c I c. Boiling Water 3 c 6-8 c. 6 c. 2 c. 3 c Salt I tsp. I tsp. I tsp. i tsp. i tsp. Cheese ic. Tomato White Sauce But- ter tb. tb. itsp. Spk. cayenne itsp. Price 24 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK General Directions. Pick over rice, put in strainer, and set in bowl of cold water. Wash between hands, draining and renew- ing water three times. Steamed rice. Wash rice as above, put in double boiler with salt and water, and cook until kernels are soft. Add more water if needed. Uncover to let steam escape before serving. Use as a vegetable, or mold in cups for a pudding and serve with stewed figs. For variety place half an apricot, peach, or steamed apple in bottom of cup and serve with Soft custard (p. 66). Boiled rice. Wash rice and cook in rapidly boiling salted water until kernels are soft. Drain thoroughly and set pan on back of stove to dry. This method wastes a little of the nour- ishment, but the kernels of rice are more distinct than when steamed. The rice water may be saved to use in tomato soup. Rice and cheese. Prepare Boiled rice (above) ; add to it the white sauce and cheese, chopped fine. Serve plain as a supper dish, or put in ramekins, cover with buttered crumbs (\\ tb. melted butter to \ c. fine crumbs), and bake until brown. Hominy and cheese may be prepared like Rice and cheese, using cooked hominy instead of rice. Rice and tomato. Method I. Prepare Steamed rice (above), using 2 c. water, and when the water is almost absorbed, add tomato. When rice is cooked, season and serve as a vegetable. May be baked like Rice and cheese (above). Method 2. Additional ingredient: 2 tb. flour. Boil rice as for Boiled rice (above), and just before serving add I c. tomato sauce made from remaining ingredients. See directions for Tomato sauce (p. 31). Hominy and tomato may be made by substituting cooked hominy for the rice in Method 2. Rice with salmon. Additional ingredients : 1-pound can salmon, 1 c. peas. Cook the rice as for Steamed rice (above), and just before serving add the seasoning and mix in lightly the salmon (flaked) and the peas. STARCH 25 MACARONI Source. Made in Italy and America, from wheat flour con- taining much gluten. Spaghetti and vermicelli are forms of macaroni, also Italian paste, letters, etc., for soups. Food Value. Contains protein and starch. Cost. Macaroni, 15$ per lb. 4 c. = 1 lb. Maca- roni Boiling Salted Water Salt Pep- per Milk But- ter Sauce Cheese But- tered Crumbs Price Boiled macaroni I c. 8 c. 1 tb. itsp. $C. 2tb. — — — Creamed maca- roni .... I c. 8 c. itsp. itsp. — — 2 C — — Baked macaroni I c. 8 c. itsp. itsp. I c. 2tb. — — ic. Macaroni and cheese . . . I c. 8 c. itsp. itsp. — — 2 C £c. ic. Macaroni and tomato . . . 1 c. 8 c. itsp. itsp. — — 2 C. — ic. Macaroni a l'italienne . . 1 c. 8 c. itsp. itsp. — — 2 C. |c — Macaroni a la Creole . . . I c. 8 c. itsp. itsp. — — 2 C. ic — General Directions. Break macaroni in inch pieces, wash, and cook in the boiling salted water until very tender (45 to 60 min.), stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Drain thoroughly and pour cold water over macaroni to keep pieces from sticking together. Spaghetti and vermicelli may be cooked and served like macaroni. Boiled macaroni. Prepare as above, reheat in the milk, add seasonings, and serve. Creamed macaroni. Cook macaroni as directed, and reheat in white sauce. Baked macaroni. Prepare as for Boiled macaroni (above). Place all ingredients except crumbs in a buttered baking-dish or ramekins, cover with the crumbs, and bake until brown. Cheese may be added if desired. 26 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Macaroni and cheese. Prepare as for Baked macaroni (p. 25), mixing macaroni and chopped cheese with the white sauce before placing in the baking-dish. Macaroni and tomato. Prepare as for Macaroni and cheese (above), substituting tomato sauce or stewed tomato, well seasoned, for the white sauce. Serve without baking if preferred. Macaroni a Pitalienne. Cook according to General Direc- tions. Reheat in tomato sauce to which \ c. grated cheese and 1 tsp. finely chopped onion have been added. Macaroni a la Creole. Additional ingredients : 1- c. chopped pimientos, \ c. chopped mushrooms, and \ tb. finely chopped onion. Prepare as for Macaroni and tomato (above), adding above ingredients to sauce. Do not bake. CORN, TAPIOCA, SAGO, AND RICE PRODUCTS Cornstarch : kernels of corn, crushed and ground. Tapioca : starch washed from cassava roots. Sago : pith of sago palm. Rice, see p. 23. Food Value. Largely for starch. Cornstarch, 10 to 1 2 per lb. 3 c. = 1 lb. Tapioca (pearl), 8 to 1 o per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. Sago, 8$ per lb. 2^c. = 1 lb. Prepared tapiocas, 1 6 per lb. 1 § c. = 1 pkg. Rice, 10 per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. Founda- tion Salt Milk Sugar Fruit Vanilla Water Price Chocolate cream .... 3 tb. J tsp. 2 c. 4 tb. — itsp. — Norwegian prune pudding 2£-tb. J tsp. — ic. f c — If c. Baked cornstarch pudding 3 tb. itsp. 2 c. i c 3 ^ - — i tsp. — Vanilla sponge pudding . 4 tb. itsp. 2 c. 1 c 3 l " — itsp. — Prune tapioca pudding ic. itsp. — 1 c 3 , - - lie. — 2 C. Apple sago pudding . . }c £tsp. — i c. 6 apples — 3 C - Baked rice pudding I . . *c £tsp. 3 c - |c. — Itsp. — Baked rice pudding II . . I c. itsp. 2 c. |c. — i tsp. — Baked Indian pudding . . 4 tb. 1 tsp. 4 c. — — — — STARCH 27 General Directions. For foundation in the first five recipes use cornstarch, and for the last one use corn meal. The titles indicate material to be used in the others. Chocolate cream. Additional ingredient: 1 tb. cocoa or \ oz. chocolate. Mix cornstarch, sugar, and cocoa with \ c. cold milk. Scald remainder of milk and pour slowly onto cornstarch mixture. Return to double boiler and stir until thick ; cover, and cook without stirring for 20 min. Add salt and vanilla and pour into cold wet glasses. Serve with whipped cream. Coffee cream. Additional ingredient : I c. hot coffee. Mix cornstarch and sugar and proceed as for Chocolate cream. Norwegian prune pudding. Additional ingredient : i-inch piece stick cinnamon cooked in sirup with prunes. Pick over and wash the prunes, soak for 1 hr. in | c. of the water (cold), then cook in the same water until prunes are tender. Remove stones, add the sugar and remaining cup of water (hot). When the mixture has boiled 5 min. stir in the cornstarch mixed with \ c. cold water. Cook 5 min. or until it becomes jellylike, stirring constantly. Remove cinnamon and pour into cold wet molds to harden. Serve with Soft C7istard (p. 66) or with cream. Baked cornstarch pudding. Additional ingredients : 1 egg, 1 tb. butter. Mix like Chocolate cream (above). Cook in double boiler until mixture thickens, then add butter, salt, flavoring, and the egg well beaten ; pour into a buttered baking-dish and bake until brown (20 to 30 min.). 2 egg yolks may be used and the whites reserved for Meringue (p. 65) on the pudding. Orange pudding or Peach pudding. 2 oranges or 4 peaches carefully sliced may be placed in the baking-dish and the corn- starch mixture poured over them. Omit vanilla. Flavor Orange pudding with orange juice and Peach pudding with lemon juice. Vanilla sponge pudding. Additional ingredient: Whites of 2 eggs. Scald all but ^ c. of milk. Mix sugar and cornstarch, then add the cold milk slowly. When smooth, stir in the hot milk and return to the double boiler. Stir until the mixture thickens, then cook 20 to 30 min. longer. Beat the whites of 28 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK eggs very stiff, add salt and flavoring, and fold into the hot pud- ding. Turn into cold wet molds to harden. Serve with Soft custard (p. 66) or Chocolate sauce (p. 60). Fruit sponge. 1 c. canned fruit and 1 c. water or fruit juice, using a little cold water to mix with the cornstarch, may be substituted for milk in recipe for Vanilla sponge pudding (p. 27). Prune tapioca pudding. Additional ingredient : \ lemon, sliced. Pick over and wash fruit, soak in 2 c. water for 2 or 3 hr., and cook in same water till tender, renewing water from time to time, so there shall be 2 c. liquid when fruit is cooked. Remove stones and put fruit and liquid into a double boiler. Add the tapioca, well washed, and cook till transparent. Add other ingredients, cook 5 min. longer, and serve either hot or cold, with sugar and cream (plain or whipped). Dried apricots, or canned peaches or pineapple, may be used in place of the prunes. Prepare dried fruits like prunes ; canned fruit should be cut in small pieces, and enough liquid added to the juice to give required amount. Then cook fruit juice and tapioca as above. A combination of fruits may be used. Peach tapioca jelly. Use if c liquid, and when the mixture begins to thicken, fold in \ c. cream (whipped). Apple sago pudding. Additional ingredient : ^ tsp. cinna- mon. Pick over and wash sago and soak for 1 hr. in cold water enough to cover. Drain, add boiling water and salt, and cook in double boiler until sago is transparent. Wash, core, and pare the apples and place in a buttered baking-dish. Fill centers with sugar and spice mixed. Pour over them the sago and bake until apples are soft. Serve with cream and sugar. |- c. pearl tapioca or i c. prepared tapiocas may be used in place of the sago required in this recipe. Baked rice pudding I. Wash the rice well. Put into a but- tered baking-dish with the other ingredients, cover, and bake 2 to 3 hr. in a very slow oven. Stir occasionally, removing cover for the last hour in order that the pudding may brown. STARCH 29 Baked rice pudding II. Additional ingredient : 1 egg. Use cooked rice for the foundation. Mix all ingredients, adding beaten egg last, and bake in a moderate oven till firm. Caramel rice pudding. Use Baked rice pudding II and add \ c. well-caramelized sugar to the milk when scalded. Baked Indian pudding. Additional ingredients : | c. mo- lasses, 3 tb. butter. Scald 3 c. of the milk and pour it over the meal, molasses, butter, and salt. Cook in double boiler till mixture thickens, then turn into a buttered baking-dish. Add the remaining cup of milk (cold), without stirring. Bake 1^ hr. in a slow oven. 1 egg may be added with the cold milk if desired. FLOUR Source. Made from seeds of various grains, commonly wheat. Food Value. Contains starch and protein. Cost. Flour, 4 $ per lb. 4 c. = 1 lb. Sauces Milk Flour But- ter Salt Pep- per Onion Water Stock Price Drawn-butter sauce — 3 tb. 2tb. itsp. itsp. — I c. — White sauce (thin) . . I c. i£tb. ftb. itsp. itsp. — — — White sauce (medium) I c. 2tb. itb. itsp. itsp. — — — White sauce (thick) . I c. 31b. litb. itsp. itsp. — — — Brown sauce .... — 4tb. 2tb. itsp. itsp. i tsp. — 1 c. Tomato sauce . . . — 2 tb. itb. itsp. itsp. 1 tsp. — I c. Tomato cream sauce . $c. 2tb. itb. itsp. itsp. — — i c. General Directions. Milk must be scalded and other liquids hot, except in White sauce, Method 2. The kind of stock to be used is indicated by the name of the recipe. Use bread flour for thickening. Drawn-butter sauce. Mix flour with salt and pepper. Melt butter, stir in flour, then add water, i at a time. Boil sauce with every addition of water, beating each time until smooth. 30 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Parsley sauce. Add I tb. chopped parsley to Drawn-butter sauce. Egg sauce. Add I hard-cooked egg, sliced, to Drawn-hitter sauce. White sauce (thin, medium, or thick). These sauces vary in thickness, and any one of them may be made by any of the following methods and used according to individual preference wherever a recipe, calls for white sauce. Method I. Melt butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour without removing the saucepan from the stove. Add l of the milk, stir until the mixture boils, then beat until the sauce is perfectly smooth ; add another third of the milk and repeat the stirring and beating ; then add remainder of milk, and when the sauce boils, season as required. This method develops the flavor of the sauce better than Method 2 and Method J. Method 2. Melt butter in a double boiler, stir in the flour. then add the milk (cold). Stir constantly till sauce thickens. Add seasonings. Method J. Scald | c. milk and mix the flour with remain- der of the milk before adding hot liquid. Cook at least 15 min. in double boiler, stirring until thick. Butter and seasoning should be added last. This method of making is considered better for those of weak digestion. Mock hollandaise sauce. Make like White sauce (medium), Method I, using 2 tb. butter instead of 1 tb. Just before removing from fire add yolk of 1 egg mixed with a little of the sauce, and when ready to serve, stir in 1 tb. lemon juice. Cheese sauce. Add to White sauce (medium), Method 2, i c. chopped cheese and stir until melted. Brown sauce. Butter and onion should be cooked 5 min., then flour added and browned ; add liquid l at a time, as for White sauce, Method I. Onion may be omitted if desired, and 1 tsp. vinegar, catsup, or Worcestershire sauce added. Sauce piquante . Add to Brown sauce 1 tb. chopped cucumber pickles, 1 tb. vinegar, 1 tsp. walnut catsup, and 1 tsp. capers. STARCH 31 Tomato sauce. Make like Brown sauce (p. 30), but do not allow butter to brown. Tomato cream sauce. Additional ingredient: -^g tsp. soda. Add the soda to the hot tomato stock, and when bubbling ceases, stir the tomato, a little at a time, into a white sauce made from the remaining ingredients. Yeast Bread and Rolls Source. Universal. Made from cereals, ground into meal or flour ; their use in some form extends through the civilized world. Food Value. Largely for starch, but contain considerable pro- tein, and when served with butter provide a well-balanced food. Cost. Yeast cake, 2 $. 5-cent loaf = 20 to 24 slices Bread, 5 per loaf. 5-cent loaf =50. crumbs. Yeast. A microscopic plant, always present in the air. Grows and multiplies rapidly in a warm, moist, sweet, nitroge- nous soil. Given these, as in bread, its presence causes some of the starch to be changed to sugar and then into alcohol and carbon dioxide. These, in their attempt to escape, cause the dough to rise. White Flour Dark Flour Sugar But- ter Salt Yeast Cake Milk Water Price Water bread . . . 5-6 c. — itb. 4 tb. I tsp. i — 2 c. Milk bread .... 5-6 c. — 1 tb. 2tb. i tsp. i 2 C. — Graham bread . . . ilc. lie. 4 tb. — iitsp. i lie. Whole-wheat bread . I c. lie. ic itb. £tsp. i I c. Rolled-oats bread . . 4-i c — ire. — iitsp. I 2 £c. Raised flour muffins . 4 c. — 3tb. 2tb. ftsp. I 2 C. — Oatmeal muffins . . 2-J- C. — 3 tb. — i tsp. i I C. — Parker House rolls I 5-6 c. — 4tb. 3 tb. iitsp. I 2 C. — Luncheon rolls . . i| c. — .3 tb. itb. itsp. i ic. — Coffee rolls .... 3 c — 4tb. 4 tb. itsp. i I c. — 3 c — 4 tb. 4tb. itsp. 1 I c. — Breadsticks .... 3 c — 2 tb. 3 tb. itsp. 1 I c. — 32 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK General Directions. Amounts of flour given should be used cautiously, as different brands vary greatly. For all these recipes the yeast should be dissolved in lukewarm water (i yeast cake to \ c.) before using. Pour hot liquid over butter, sugar, and salt. Add yeast to the above mixture when it is lukewarm. For Water bread and Milk bread add enough flour to knead. For Graham bread and Whole-zvheat bread all the flour should be added and the whole well beaten. Set in a warm place, cover- ing the bowl well, and let stand 8 or 10 hr., or until double its bulk. Knead for a second time, then shape the dough or, for Graham bi'ead and Whole-wheat bread, beat well. Fill pans \ full, let rise until twice its original size, and bake in a moderate oven until it is light and well browned and there is no crackling in the loaf (45 to 75 min.). Water bread. Will make 2 loaves or 2 pans of biscuits. Use only enough flour to make a dough that can be handled easily, and knead until smooth and elastic. Milk bread. See Water bread (above). Half water and half milk may be used in place of 2 c. milk. Graham bread. Will make 1 loaf. Should rise in pans until a little less than twice original size. Whole- wheat bread. Proceed as for Graham bread (above). Rolled-oats bread. Additional ingredients : \ c. molasses, 1 c. rolled oats. Add boiling water to rolled oats, let stand \ hr., and add other ingredients ; let rise overnight, beat thoroughly, turn into buttered bread-pans ; let rise again, and bake. Raised flour muffins. Additional ingredient : 1 egg. Add butter, sugar, and salt to hot milk ; when lukewarm add yeast cake to this mixture, then egg (well beaten) and flour. Beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise overnight. In the morning fill buttered gem-pans f full, let rise till pans are full, and bake 30 min. in moderate oven. Oatmeal muffins. Additional ingredient: \ c. cold cooked oatmeal. Mix the hot milk with the oatmeal and proceed as for Raised flour muffins (above), omitting the egg. STARCH 33 Parker House rolls I. Put milk, butter, sugar, and salt into a mixing-bowl. When lukewarm add yeast and 3 c. flour. Beat well, cover, and let rise till light. Add enough more flour to make dough stiff enough to knead, and let rise again. When double its bulk, knead again, roll out, shape, and let rise till light in buttered pan. Bake in hot oven 12 to 15 min. If made overnight, ^ yeast cake is enough. Luncheon rolls. Additional ingredients : I egg, I tb. lard, 1 tsp. grated lemon rind. Add sugar, salt, and shortening to milk. When lukewarm add yeast and 1 c. flour. Cover and let rise ; then add egg, lemon rind, and enough flour to knead, and let rise again. Roll A in. thick, shape with biscuit-cutter, place in buttered pan ; let rise again, and bake. Coffee rolls. Additional ingredients : 1 egg, ^ c. raisins (cut fine). Pour the hot milk over the butter, sugar, and salt. When lukewarm add the yeast, raisins, egg (well beaten), and flour enough to knead. Knead till smooth and elastic and let rise overnight. Roll out in a thin sheet, brush with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and roll like a jelly roll. Cut in small slices, place close together in a buttered baking-pan, let rise till double their bulk, and bake about 30 min. in a hot oven. The process may be completed in a day if 1 yeast cake is used. The dough may be spread in a large pan, brushed over with 1 egg, and, after rising, may be covered with the following mixture : 3 tb. butter, 2 tb. sugar, 2 tb. flour, 1 tsp. cinnamon. When baked it should be broken into small squares. Buns. Additional ingredient : \ c. raisins (stoned and quar- tered). Add the sugar, salt, and butter to the milk ; when luke- warm add yeast and lie. flour ; cover and let rise till light ; then add raisins and flour to make a soft dough. Let rise, shape like biscuit ; let rise again, and bake. May be glazed by brushing with egg before baking. Breadsticks. Additional ingredient: white of I egg. Add butter, sugar, and salt to milk ; when lukewarm add yeast, egg 34 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK (well beaten), and the flour. Knead till very elastic, and when well risen shape in long, slender rolls. Let rise again and bake in a hot oven. Uses of Stale Bread Toast Source. General. Food Value. Contains starch and protein. Cost See individual prices. Bread But- ter Boiling Water Milk Flour Egg Salt Sugar Tomato Price Plain toast 8 slices 4 tb. Hot-water toast . . . S slices 4 tb. 2 C. — — — I tsp. — — Cream toast . 8 slices 2tb. — 2 C. 4tb. — £tsp. — — Egg toast . . 8 slices — — I C. — I itsp. 2 tb. — Tomato cream toast . . . 8 slices 4tb. — I C. 4tb. — i tsp. — I C. Croutons . . 2 slices 2 tb. k Croustade cases . . . 4 slices 4 tb. General Directions. For toast, cut bread in slices of uniform thickness, put into toaster, hold some distance from fire until dried through, then brown quickly on both sides. In a gas stove bread may be put into large baking-pan in broiling-oven, but must be carefully watched and turned. (Old pieces of bread may be dried, rolled, sifted, and kept in jars to use for frying or scalloped dishes. Cover with cheesecloth.) Plain toast. Toast bread ; butter, and send to table at once. Hot-water toast. Toast bread ; put butter and salt in a shallow dish, pour over them the boiling water, dip each slice quickly in this, using a knife and fork. Send to table hot, with slices piled on top of each other. Cream toast. Toast bread ; make a white sauce of remain- ing ingredients ; dip each slice of toast into this, put in a STARCH 35 covered dish, and strain the rest of the sauce over the toast. Toast may be buttered before dipping. Egg toast. Beat egg, add sugar, salt, and milk. Dip slices of bread separately into this mixture, and when all have been softened, brown on both sides on a hot, well-greased griddle or frying-pan. Use only enough fat to keep bread from sticking. Serve for breakfast or lunch or, with a sweet sauce, for dessert. Cheese sandwiches may be made by the following recipe : Omit sugar, and after browning toast lay thin slices of cheese between 2 slices of toast, sprinkle with salt and paprika, and place in oven till cheese is melted. Tomato cream toast. Additio7ial ingredient: \ tsp. soda. Heat tomato, add soda, stir, and strain. Add this to sauce made from other ingredients, season, and proceed as for Cream toast (p. 34). Serve immediately. Croutons. Use stale bread and cut about f in. thick. Butter well, using softened or melted butter. Cut in strips -| in. wide, then cut these in cubes. Bake in a moderate oven till golden brown, shaking the pan occasionally. DncJicss crusts. Brown the strips of bread, making them A in. wide. Grated cheese may be spread on the crusts before baking. Season with cayenne pepper. Croustade cases. Cut slices of bread 2 in. thick. Stamp rounds from these with a cooky-cutter and scoop out the inside, leaving a shell. Brush over with melted butter and brown. Oblong cases may be made by dividing slices of bread in halves and scooping out the center. Fill with creamed vegetables, fish, or meat. Scalloped Dishes Source. General. Food Value. Bread contains starch ; the other ingredients are valuable for protein or mineral salts. Cost. See market prices and prices of individual items. 36 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Founda- tion But- ter Salt Onion But- tered Crumbs Pepper Milk Flour Stock Price Scalloped meat 2 C. 2 tb. I tsp. I tb. I C. i tsp. — 6tb. 2 c. Scalloped to- 2 C. 2 tb. i tsp. — I c. Jgtsp. — — — Scalloped fish 2 C. 2 tb. i tsp. i tsp. I c. Jgtsp. 2 C 4tb. — Scalloped veg- etables . . 2 C. 2tb. i tsp. — *c. iVtSP- 2 C. 4 tb. — Scalloped apple pudding . . 2 C. — £tsp. — I c. — — — — General Directions. Prepare crumbs by drying in oven, roll- ing, and sifting. For buttered crumbs mix each cupful with 3 tb. melted butter. Put a few crumbs in bottom of a buttered baking-dish or ramekins, then put ^ the food used as a foundation (with seasonings), and repeat the process, reserving at least ^ the crumbs for the top layer. Milk or stock should be made into a sauce with the butter and flour and mixed with meat, fish, or vegetables. Bake about 20 min. in a moderate oven. Scalloped meat. Meat should be finely chopped and mixed with a brown sauce made of the other ingredients before putting into the dish with the crumbs. Stewed and strained tomato may be substituted for the stock ; or if chicken or veal be the foundation, the liquid used may be milk, and a speck of nutmeg may be added for seasoning. Scalloped tomato. Use fresh sliced or canned tomatoes and follow General Directions. Scalloped fish. Prepare fish, carefully removing all skin, bones, and oily meat. Scald onion in milk and a bit of bay leaf if desired, strain, and use for the white sauce ; then proceed according to General Directions. Scalloped vegetables. Cooked celery, cabbage, cauliflower, or onions may be used. Measure first three after cooking, and allow 8 medium onions. Scalloped apple pudding. Additional ingredients : |c. sugar, \ tsp. cinnamon. Slice or chop pared and quartered apples. STARCH 37 Mix sugar and cinnamon, and proceed according to General Directions, using sugar and spice in place of salt and pepper. Bake till apples are soft (30 to 45 min.), and serve with a hot or cold pudding sauce. Bread Puddings Source. General. Food Value. Largely for starch and sugar. Milk and eggs supply protein. Cost. See market prices and prices of individual items. Milk Bread Sugar Salt Fruit Flavor- ing But- ter Eggs Flour Price Fruit bread pud- ding .... 2 c. 2 c. — itsp. ic. itsp. — — — Chocolate bread pudding . . . 2 C. 2 C. $C. itsp. — i tsp. — — — Plain bread pud- ding .... 2 C. I C. }c. itsp. — i tsp. i tb. I — Queen of pud- dings .... 2 C. I c. he. itsp. — 1 tsp. 1 tb. 2 — Lemon pudding . 2 C. 1 c i c 3 °" itsp. — 2 tb. — 2 1 tb. Berry pudding . — Sslices *c. itsp. 2 C. — 4 tb. — — Dresden sand- "i wiches j I c. 8-10 slices 2 tb. Itsp. i£c. — 2tb. 2 — Fruit bread pudding. Additional ingredient : ^ c. molasses. Flavor with spice. Break stale (not dry) bread in small pieces and pour over them about ^ the scalded milk ; when soft, mash them and add rest of milk. Let stand 10 min., stir in other ingredients, using equal parts currants, raisins, and citron for the fruit. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish until milk is ab- sorbed. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60). Brown sugar may be used instead of the molasses. Chocolate bread pudding. Additional ingredients : 1 oz. chocolate, \ c. milk. Flavor with vanilla. Make as directed for Fruit bread pudding (above), melting chocolate with sugar and the extra milk and adding when mixture has stood 10 min. Serve with whipped cream. 38 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Plain bread pudding. Use only the crumb of the bread. Make like Fruit bread pudding (p. 37), melting butter in the hot milk and adding beaten egg last. Flavor with vanilla or lemon. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60) or Creamy sauce (p. 60). If a meringue is desired, use 2 eggs for the pud- ding and reserve the whites for the meringue. Omit sauce if a meringue is used. Queen of puddings. Soak bread crumbs in hot milk till soft and mash them. Add egg yolks and other ingredi- ents and bake in buttered dish or cups. When almost done, cover with jelly and a meringue made from the whites of the eggs and 5 tb. powdered sugar. Bake 8 min. in a moderate oven. Lemon pudding. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. powdered sugar, grated rind of 1 lemon. Scald milk and crumbs to- gether, using no crusts. Mix sugar and flour, add egg yolks, and when blended stir the hot milk into the mixture. Cook like a custard, and when mixture thickens set away to cool. When quite cold flavor with lemon juice and the grated lemon rind. Beat whites of eggs stiff, add the powdered sugar, heap lightly on the pudding, and serve at once. Berry pudding. Use blueberries, huckleberries, raspberries, or blackberries. (In winter canned berries may be used.) Stew the fruit with the sugar, adding a little water if necessary. Butter the bread, lay 2 slices in the bottom of a melon mold, cover with the hot fruit, and add remainder of the materials in layers. Chill thoroughly, remove from mold, and serve with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. Hot berry pudding. Use same ingredients as for Bei'ry pudding. Place alternate layers of bread and fruit in a but- tered baking-dish and bake till the bread has absorbed the liquid. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60) or Creamy sauce (p. 60). Dresden sandwiches. Make an uncooked custard of egg yolks, sugar, salt, and milk. Dip the slices of bread in this and brown on both sides in the hot butter. For filling use stewed apricots STARCH 39 or peaches or jelly, jam, or marmalade. Put 2 slices of the toast together with fruit between and serve with Orange sauce (p. 60) or Apricot sauce (p. 60). Fried Cakes, Fritters, etc. Source. General. Food Value. A source of fat and carbohydrates. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Flour Baking- powder Salt Sugar But- ter Milk Eggs Yeast Cake Water Price Buckwheat cakes 2 C — i tsp. — — — — i 2±C. Raised waffles 2 C. — i tsp. 1 tb. 1 tb. 1 c. I i 2 tb. Plain waffles . . 2 C. 3 tsp. i tsp. 1 tb. 2 tb. lie. 2 — — Griddlecakes . . 2 C. 4 tsp. 1 tsp. 2 tb. 2 tsp. if c. 2 — — Bread griddle- cakes .... I C. 3 tsp. 1 tsp. 1 tb. — 2 C. 2 — — 3 tsp. 2 tsp. 1 tsp. 2 tsp. % c. 2 tb. ., Corn fritters . . I C. 1 tb. \c 2 — — Fruit fritters . . lb C. i£tsp. itsp. 2 tb. itb. i-c. 2 — — General Directions. Dry ingredients should be sifted, the sugar with them except in Doughnuts. If eggs are not separated, they may be combined with milk after being beaten. Butter should be melted and added last, just before whites of eggs. To saute (brown on both sides in shallow fat) the first five mix- tures, use a heavy frying-pan, griddle, or waffle iron. Grease well with salt pork, drippings, or butter. If latter is used, re- move pan to back of stove when adding fresh fat, then reheat. Use only enough fat to keep food from sticking. For the dough- nuts and the fritters use lard, or any lard substitute ; butter is unsuitable. Put fat in a deep kettle, having plenty to cover the food. For full directions for frying see Frying (p. 99) and Croquettes (p. 99) and follow carefully. Buckwheat cakes. Additional ingredients : buckwheat flour should be used, also 4 tb. corn meal, 2 tb. molasses, \ tsp. soda. 40 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Sift all dry ingredients except the soda. Add yeast dissolved in a little of the water, then the lukewarm water and molasses. Beat well, let rise overnight, and in the morning stir in the soda and beat well. Cook by the spoonful on a hot, well- greased griddle. Raised waffles. Mix like Raised flour muffins (p. 32), omitting the egg. When well risen add the egg and cook in a well-greased waffle iron till brown. Serve with butter and sugar or sirup. Plain waffles. Sift dry ingredients ; add milk to beaten egg yolks and combine the two mixtures. Then add the butter (melted) and the whites of eggs (beaten stiff). Cook and serve as for Raised waffles (above). Griddlecakes. Mix like Plain waffles (above) and cook by the spoonful on a hot, well-greased griddle. 2 c. sour milk and 1 tsp. bicarbonate of soda may be substituted for the sweet milk and baking-powder. The eggs need not be separated and are sometimes omitted if sour milk is used. Bread griddlecakes. Additional ingredient: 2 c. soft bread crumbs. Scald milk and pour it over the bread crumbs. Let stand till cool and proceed as for Plain waffles (above). Cook on a griddle as for Griddlecakes (above). Doughnuts. Additional ingredient: \ tsp. spice (either nutmeg or cinnamon or a combination of both). Beat the eggs light without separating and add the sugar and the butter (melted) ; then add the milk and lastly the dry ingredients sifted together. More flour may be used to make the mixture stiff enough to roll out, but it should be kept as soft as possible. It will roll more easily if chilled on ice before handling. Divide into quarters and roll out one quarter at a time. Cut with a floured doughnut-cutter and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper. Stir the trimmings into the next quarter of dough and proceed as before till all dough is used. The fat should be hot enough to brown a bit of bread while counting 60. The dough- nuts may be sprinkled with sugar after being fried. STARCH 41 Corn fritters. Additional ingredients : 1 c. corn, A tsp. pa- prika. Use canned corn, or cold cooked corn cut from the cob ; chop it and add the milk. Stir in the dry ingredients and when well mixed add the eggs, well beaten. Drop by the spoonful into hot fat, and when brown drain on brown paper. Test the fat as for Doughnuts (p. 40). Com oysters. Make like Com fritters, omitting I egg and the milk and using i c. flour with less seasoning. Cook on a hot, well-greased griddle. Fruit fritters. Additional ingredient : 1 to I A c. fruit, cut in small pieces. Make a batter as for Griddlecakes (p. 40) ; stir the fruit into this and fry by the spoonful in hot fat. Bananas, apples, oranges, pears, or peaches may be used. Use bread flour. Steamed Mixtures Source. General. Food Value. Same as for Fried Cakes, Fritters, etc. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Flour Milk Molasses Baking- powder Soda Salt But- ter Eggs Fruit Price Brown bread . 3 c - 2 C. % C 3 *-• — 2 tsp. I tsp. — Graham pud- ding . . . Suet pudding . Steamed batter iic. 2 c. I C 3 '-• 4 c 1 c 3 u " J- C 2 <-• Sugar — itsp. i.tsp. 1 tsp. 1 tsp. 3 tb. I I C. pudding . . Apple pudding Chocolate pud- 2 C. 2 C. 1 c I C. fc. 3 tsp. 3 tsp. — itsp. itsp. ic ic. I 2 C ding .... Dumplings . . 2 C. 2 C. I C. & C 3 *-• fc. 4 tsp. 5 tsp. itsp. itsp. 4 tb. 1 tb. I — General Directions. Dry ingredients to be sifted unless other- wise directed. Molds to be well greased, filled | full, and tightly covered. Must be placed in boiling water on a trivet, or many thicknesses of brown paper, and water must be kept boiling during time required for cooking. If it boils away, 42 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK replace with boiling water. Suet should be washed and the membranes removed before chopping. Brown bread. For the 3 c. of flour use equal parts of rye, whole wheat, and corn meal. Mix like any batter. These proportions are for sour milk ; sweet milk or water may be substituted, using il to if c. Steam in brown-bread mold, with tube in center, for 3 hrs. Graham pudding. Additional ingredients : 1 tsp. cinnamon, i- tsp. nutmeg, \ tsp. cloves. Use graham flour. The fruit may be all raisins, or a mixture of raisins, currants, and citron, or for a plain pudding it may be omitted. The mixture should be combined as usual, adding the fruit to the dry ingredients. Steam 3 hr. in buttered mold. Serve with Hard saicce (p. 60) or Foamy sauce (p. 60). Suet pudding. Additional ingredients: |- c. finely chopped suet, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 1 tsp. each of nutmeg, cloves, and ginger. Chop the suet into the dry ingredients, then stir in the liquids. Turn into a buttered mold, steam 3 hr., and serve with Egg sauce (p. 60). 1 c. figs or dates cut in strips may be added. Plum pudding. Make as for Suet pudding, adding 1 1 c. raisins or mixed fruit, floured with 2 tb. flour. Serve with Foamy sa?ice (p. 60) or Hard sauce (p. 60). Steamed batter pudding. Cream the butter, add the sugar, then the egg (well beaten), the milk, and the dry ingredients. Steam 2 hr. in a mold. Serve with Apple sauce (p. 9) and whipped cream or with Chocolate sauce (p. 60). Apple pudding. Mix like cake, add the apple (cut thin), and steam for 2 hr. in a mold. Serve with any desired pudding sauce. Steamed berry pudding. Pick over carefully and wash blue- berries or huckleberries, measure 2 c, and add to pudding made as for Apple pudding, omitting apples. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60) or Foamy sauce (p. 60). Chocolate pudding. Additional ingredient : 2 oz. chocolate. Mix like Steamed batter pudding (above), adding melted choco- late last. Steam 2 hr. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60). STARCH 43 Dumplings. Use either milk or water. Sift dry ingredients and chop in the butter with a knife, then add the liquid, using enough to make a soft dough. Roll about | in. thick, cut with a small circular cutter, place in a well-greased steamer, and cook 20 to 30 min. over boiling water. Butter may be omitted. May be served with a stew or used with Foamy sauce (p. 60) or Fruit sauce (p. 59) for a pudding. Muffins Source. General. Food Value. A source of starch and sugar. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Dark Flour Sugar Salt Baking- powder But- ter Milk Eggs Flour or Meal Cereal Price Plain muffins . . 2 C. 4 tb. 1 tsp. 4 tsp. 3 tb. I c. 2 — — Shirley muffins . 2 C. be. I tsp. 4 tsp. 4 tb. 1 c 8 '-• 2 — — Gorn-meal muffins I C. 1 c 3 "-• itsp. 4 tsp. 1 tb. I c. 2 ic. — Cereal muffins . I C. — £ tsp. 4 tsp. 1 tb. £ c 3 "-• I — I c. Rice muffins . . 2 C. 6tb. itsp. 4 tsp. 2 tb. I c. 2 — {c. Berry muffins . . 2 C. fc. J- tsp. 4 tsp. 4 tb. I c. 2 — — Graham muffins . I C. 5 tb. 1 tsp. 4 tsp. 2 tb. I c. 2 I c. — Corn cake . . . I C. |c. |tsp. 4 tsp. 4 tb. I c. 2 I c. — General Directions. Have pans well buttered. Sift the dry in- gredients ; add milk and egg yolks, then the melted butter, and lastly fold in the well-beaten white of egg. For Shirley muffins, Corn-meal muffins, Berry muffins, and Graham muffins I egg may be used and amount of flour increased slightly. If only 1 egg is used, it need not be separated. Bake 20 to 30 min. in a rather hot oven. Recipes should make 1 2 medium-sized muffins. Plain muffins. Follow General Directions. Shirley muffins. Cream the butter, add the sugar, then the egg (well beaten). Sift dry ingredients and add to first mixture alternately with the milk. Corn-meal muffins. Follow General Directions. 44 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Cereal muffins. Additional ingredients : ^ c. molasses, |- c. graham flour. Use any cold cooked cereal and work it into the sifted dry ingredients with the tips of the fingers. Mix the milk with the molasses. Rice muffins. Use cold boiled rice and mix according to General Directions, stirring rice into dry ingredients. Berry muffins. Additional ingredients : I c. berries, 2 tb. flour. Make like Shirley muffins (p. 43). Mix the 2 tb. flour with the berries, which should be added last. Graham muffins. Use graham or whole-wheat flour. Follow General Directions for mixing. Corn cake. Follow General Directions for mixing and bake in a shallow, well-greased pan. Break in squares for serving, using a fork to separate the pieces. Baking-powder Biscuits and Breads Source. General. Food Value. Chiefly for carbohydrates. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Flour Baking- powder Salt Sugar But- ter Milk Graham Flour Eggs Fruit Price Emergency 2 C. 4 tsp. £tsp. 2 tb. I C. Baking-powder biscuits . . . 2 C. 4 tsp. £tsp. — 2 tb. f c. — — — Shortcake . . . 2 C. 4 tsp. \ tsp. 1 tb. 4 tb. f c — — — Fruit rolls . . . 2 C. 4 tsp. itsp. 4 tb. 3 tb. f c — — ic. Dutch apple cake 2 C. 4 tsp. \ tsp. 3-c. 4tb. I c. — I i|c. Nut bread . . . 2 C. 3 ts P- 1 tsp. i-c. — fc — 1 — Quick graham bread .... I C. — 1 tsp. — — lie. 2 C. — — General Directions. Sift all the dry ingredients, chop in the butter with a case knife, and then stir in the milk, adding it cautiously, since some flours absorb less than others. The butter may be melted and added last if preferred. STARCH 45 Emergency biscuits. Drop by the spoonful into buttered gem- pans and bake 15 to 20 min. in a moderate oven. Use more milk if batter is very thick. A c. scalded, dried, and sliced dates may be added. Baking-powder biscuits. Use only enough milk to make a dough that can be easily handled. Turn quickly onto a well- floured board, roll dough back and forth in the flour until well covered, then pat lightly with a rolling-pin, making the dough about I in. thick. With a floured cutter, cut as many biscuits as possible and place in a buttered pan. Put trimmings back into bowl, mix with knife, and repeat rolling and cutting. Bake 1 5 to 20 min. in a hot oven. Whole-wheat biscuits or Graham bisc?iits. Use I c. white flour, I c. dark flour, and 2 tb. sugar, and make like Baking- powder biscuits. Shortcake. Prepare as for Baking-powder biscuits (above). When dough is well floured divide in two parts. Shape one piece to fill a round, shallow pan, and brush over with melted butter. Shape the second piece of dough and place it on the first. Bake 20 to 30 min. When slightly cool, split, butter, and fill with stewed or fresh fruit, sweetened. Whipped cream may be put on top just before serving. The dough is some- times shaped as for biscuits, but rolled a little thinner, and two biscuits put together to make individual shortcakes. Fruit rolls. Additional ingredient: \ tsp. cinnamon. Make like Shortcake (above), using no sugar in mixing and only half the butter. Mix sugar, spice, and currants or raisins. Roll out the dough, keeping it as nearly square as possible. Spread with remainder of butter, sprinkle with the sugar mixture, roll up, cut in slices, place them cut-side down on a buttered pan, and bake 15 min. in a moderate oven. Dutch apple cake. Additional ingredient: \ tsp. cinnamon. Apples or peaches may be used for fruit. Mix like Emergency biscuits (above), reserving 2 tb. of the sugar and mixing remainder with dry ingredients. Add the beaten egg last. 4 6 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Spread the dough in a shallow, buttered baking-pan or in gem-pans, and press the sliced fruit into it in rows. Sprinkle with the cinnamon mixed with remaining sugar, and bake in a moderate oven 25 to 30 min. Serve as bread for luncheon or supper, or as a dessert with Lemon sauce (p. 59) of Foamy sauce (p. 60). Nut bread. Additional ingredient: \ c. nuts (walnuts or peanuts) put through coarse meat-chopper. Mix like Emergency biscuits (p. 45), adding the chopped nuts to sifted dry in- gredients. Beat well, pour into a well-buttered bread-pan, let stand 20 min., and bake 45 to 60 min. in a moderate oven. Quick graham bread. Additional ingredients : 1 c. molas- ses, 1 tsp. soda. Use sour milk. 1 c. chopped nuts may be added if desired. Combine the liquids and mix like Emergency biscuits (p. 45). Bake in a well-buttered pan, in a moderate oven, for about 60 min. Batter Puddings Source. General. Food Value. For carbohydrates. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Flour Sugar Salt But- ter Baking- powder Ber- ries Price Pop-overs . . . Cottage pudding Orange puffs . . 1 c. 2 c. ifc. itsp. — f c itsp. itsp. 4 tb. 4 tsp. 3 tsp. I c. I c. ic. Pop-overs. Mix flour and salt, add milk slowly, and beat until smooth. Beat the eggs light, add to first mixture, and beat with egg-beater for 2 min. Pour at once into hot well-buttered baking-cups or gem-pans, bake in a hot oven 30 to 40 min. Serve hot as muffins, or, with a sweet pudding sauce, for dessert. Cottage pudding. Sift dry ingredients. Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, then the egg (well-beaten). Stir in the milk, then the dry ingredients; beat well, and bake in a well- buttered cake-pan or gem-pans 25 to 35 min. Serve with STARCH 47 mashed and sweetened strawberries or peaches, stewed fruit, Chocolate sauce (p. 60), or Hard sauce (p. 60). Baked berry ptidding. Make as for Cottage ptidding and add 2 c. blueberries or huckleberries just before putting pud- ding in pan. Berries should be picked over, washed, and slightly floured before using. Serve with Lemon sauce (p. 59), Foamy sauce (p. 60), or Hard sauce (p. 60). Orange puffs. Additional ingredients : rind and pulp of two oranges, 1 tb. orange juice. Make as for Cottage pudding (p. 46) and add the grated orange rind and the juice last. Bake in gem- pans and serve with Orange sauce (p. 60) made with the orange pulp. Cookies and Wafers Source. General. Food Value. For carbohydrates and fat. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Flour SUGAR Salt Baking- powder Milk But- ter Eggs Spice Mo- lasses Price Molasses cookies 4 c. I tsp. — ic ic. — 2 tsp. I c. Sugar cookies . . 3 C - lie 1 3 I.. itsp. 3 ts P- ire. f c - 2 itsp. — Chocolate cookies 2*C. I c. itsp. 2 tsp. ic. ic. I — Filled cookies . . 3i c - I c. itsp. 4 tsp. |c. ic. I — — Peanut cookies . 1 c. fc. itsp. 2 tsp. ic. 4tb. 2 — — Ginger wafers . . 2 c. 1 c. — — ic. ic. — i tsp. — Nut wafers . . . 2 c. I c. itsp. 2 tsp. ire. J- c 3 u " I — — Hermits . . . . 2 C. I c. itsp. 2 tsp. 3 tb. J - c I 1 tsp. — Jumbles . . . . 3C I c. i-tsp. 4 tsp. ic. 6tb. 2 ftsp. — Ginger snaps . . 3i c - — 1 tsp. — 3 c 3 '"• 2 tsp. I c. General Directions. For all these mixtures containing sugar, the shortening should be creamed and the sugar added grad- ually. Add the egg (beaten) ; then add the milk and the sifted dry ingredients alternately. When sifting dry ingredients, re- serve part of flour in case all is not needed. The shortening may be all butter or a mixture of butter and lard or sweet drippings. Any preferred spice may be used and amounts 48 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK varied to suit individual tastes. Molasses cookies may be made with all lard or drippings. Add only enough flour to make the dough stiff enough to handle ; too much will make the cookies tough and hard. Roll out only a small portion at a time and keep the remainder cool till ready to use. Add the trimmings to a fresh portion of the dough. For thin cookies and wafers the dough should be chilled on ice before using. Shape with a floured cutter and bake on well-greased sheets or inverted dripping-pans. Cookies require a rather quick oven. Molasses cookies. Add soda to molasses and beat thor- oughly, then add milk, shortening (melted), and other ingredi- ents. Use enough flour to make a soft dough, which must be chilled. Roll ^ in. thick. Bake 10 to 12 min. Sugar cookies. Mix according to General Directions and roll very thin. Bake about 10 min. Chocolate cookies. Additional ingredient : 2 oz. chocolate. Melt the chocolate and add to the mixture before adding the flour and milk. Proceed as for Sugar cookies (above). Filled cookies. Mix as directed for Sugar cookies (above) and roll about i in. thick. Place two cookies together with a spoonful of jelly, marmalade, or the following mixture between. Bake 12 to 15 min. Filling. 1 c. raisins, i c. sugar, i c. water, 1 tb. flour. Mix sugar and flour with the water, add the raisins (chopped), and cook till thick. Peanut cookies. Additional ingredient : \ c. chopped pea- nuts. Mix like Sugar cookies (above), adding peanuts to dry in- gredients and having the dough soft enough to drop from tip of teaspoon onto a buttered pan. Allow room for mixture to spread. Place ^ peanut on each and bake 10 min. in a moderate oven. Ginger wafers. Additional ingredient : \ tsp. soda. Dough should be soft enough to spread with a knife on an inverted dripping-pan. Bake quickly and cut in squares as soon as it is taken from the oven. Run a broad-bladed knife under the wafers, holding it very flat, to remove them from the pan. STARCH 49 Nut wafers. Additional ingredients : |-tsp. vanilla, -|c. nuts (almonds or walnuts). Mix like Sugar cookies (p. 48), roll very thin, cut with small cutter, place i nut on each wafer, and bake a delicate brown. A mixture of butter and lard is desirable for the shortening. Hermits. Additional ingredient : ^ c. raisins, stoned and cut small, added to the creamed butter and sugar. Allow twice as much cinnamon as of clove and nutmeg for the teaspoonful of spice. Roll about | in. thick. Cut and bake as usual. Jumbles. Mix according to General Directions, roll i in. thick, and bake about 10 min. in a hot oven. Ginger snaps. Additional ingredient : i tsp. soda. Heat molasses and shortening to boiling point. Add dry ingredients, mixed and sifted. Chill thoroughly and roll very thin. Cut with a small round cutter and bake in a moderate oven. * Sponge Cakes etc. Source. General. Food Value. Chiefly for carbohydrates. Contain some protein. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Water sponge cake Cheap sponge cake Rich sponge cake . Sponge drops . . Angel cake . . . Creamcakes . . . Flour lie. I c. I c. ic. f c. I c. Sugar 1 c. I c. I c. |c. fc Eggs Baking- powder ii tsp. lk tsp. Salt itsp. itsp. itsp. itsp. i-tsp. Flavor- ing itsp. 2 tsp. 1 tb. itsp. f tsp. 3tb. i tb. *c. But- ter u. Price General Directions. Separate the eggs ; beat the whites stiff and the yolks till light-colored and thick. Add the sugar to the beaten yolks unless otherwise directed, then all the liquid if rule calls for it. Stir in other dry ingredients and fold in the whites lightly. 50 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Water sponge cake. Flavor with lemon extract and bake 25 min. in a buttered and floured shallow pan. For cream pies etc. use two round pans. When cake is cool, split and fill. Dries quickly, but is good if used at once. Cheap sponge cake. Use vinegar for flavoring and bake 35 min. in a moderate oven in a buttered and floured cake-pan. Does not keep well, so should be used at once. Rich sponge cake. Use lemon juice as flavoring ; a little grated lemon rind may also be added. Bake 30 to 40 min. in a moderate oven in a buttered and floured deep pan, preferably one with a tube. Sponge drops. Use vanilla for flavoring. Beat the whites of eggs till stiff and dry, then add sugar and continue beating. Mix in the yolks (well beaten), then flavor, and cut and fold in the dry ingredients. Shape with a teaspoon on unbuttered paper, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake 8 min. in a moderate oven. Lady fingers. Make like Sponge drops and shape long and narrow with a pastry bag or a spoon. Angel cake. Use whites of eggs only, flavor with vanilla, and add 1 tsp. cream of tartar to whites of eggs while beating. Beat till stiff, then add sugar gradually. Fold in flour, mixed and sifted 4 times with the salt, add vanilla, and bake 35 to 45 min. in an unbuttered tube pan. (Only a pan that has never been buttered can be used in this way. Others must be buttered, but the crust of the cake will in that case be thicker.) Angel cake requires a hotter oven than sponge cake and may be covered with buttered paper when it begins to brown. Creamcakes. Cook water and butter in a saucepan, and as soon as it boils add flour and continue beating till mixture is smooth and thick. Remove from fire and add unbeaten eggs, one at a time, beating each one into the mixture separately. When all have been added, beat well and drop by the spoon- ful on a buttered tin, leaving spaces between. Bake 30 min. in a rather hot oven. When firm and brown remove, cool, STARCH 51 split, and fill with Cream filling (p. 58) or whipped cream. Recipe should make 10 to 12 creamcakes. Apricot priffs. Fill Creamcakes (p. 50) with stewed and sweetened apricots and serve with whipped cream as a des- sert. Crushed and sweetened strawberries may also be used. Vanilla eclairs. Make creamcake mixture, shape in long, narrow ovals, and bake. Fill with Cream filling (p. 58) and frost with Confectioner s frosting (p. 57). Chocolate eclairs. Make like Vanilla eclairs, adding 1 oz. chocolate to the filling and 1 oz. to the frosting. Coffee eclairs. Make like Vajiilla eclairs, flavoring both filling and frosting with 1 tb. coffee extract. Butter Cakes Source. General. Food Value. Largely for carbohydrates and fat. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Flour Sugar Salt Baking- powder But- ter Milk Eggs Soda Flavor- ing Price Jelly roll . . . . lie. I c. itsp. I tsp. Itb. 2 tb. 3 — — Layer cake . . . lie. f c - itsp. 2 tsp. 4 tb. ic. 1 — itsp. Cup cakes I . . lie. I c. itsp. 2 tsp. 5 |tb. \c. 1 — itsp. Cup cakes II . . If c. fc. itsp. 2itS P . 4tb. ic. 2 — itsp. Loaf cake . . . If c. 1 c. itsp. 2 tsp. Stb. ic. 3 — itsp. Sour-milk cake . ifc. lie. itsp. — Stb. ic. 2 i tsp. 1 tb. Coffee cake . . . 2f C . fc. itsp. — Stb. — 2 itsp. 1 itsp. White layer cake . ifc. I c. itsp. 2i tsp. Sitb. 6tb. 3 — itsp. White cake . . . 2£c. I^C. itsp. 3 tsp. Stb. 1 c. 4 — itsp. Chocolate cake . I^C. fc. itsp. 2i tsp. 6tb. ic. 2 — itsp. General Directions. All ingredients should be measured before the mixing is begun. Eggs should be washed and broken into a cup one at a time to test them before putting them into a bowl together. Cake-pans should be buttered and floured or lined with paper, which should project over two sides. The paper and unprotected ends of pan should then be buttered. Oven should 52 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK be ready when cake is mixed. Except where otherwise directed, the butter should be well creamed and sugar added to it grad- ually. For Jelly roll and Cup cakes I the yolk and white of the egg should be beaten together. In all the other recipes the well-beaten yolks should be stirred into the butter and sugar, then the milk and sifted dry ingredients added alter- nately. If fruit, nuts, or coconut are to be used, they should be floured with a little of the flour and added next. Then fold in the whites of the eggs (beaten stiff) and flavor. Bake according to special directions. After baking is almost completed, test by inserting a clean wooden toothpick into the center of the loaf. If dry, cake is done. It should be well browned and elastic, and should shrink from pan ; there should be no singing sound. The oven should be carefully regulated while cake is baking. Divide the approximate time required into quarters. During the first quarter the cake should rise but not brown ; during the second the cake should continue to rise and begin to brown in spots ; during the third the rising should be completed and an even brown color develop ; during the fourth the cake will shrink slightly and dry off. The oven heat may be decreased during this last period if necessary. For variety, | to I c. currants, raisins, or citron (cut fine), ^ c. chopped nuts, or 1 c. shredded coconut may be added to Cup cakes I, Cup cakes II, Loaf cake, Sour-milk cake, or Coffee cake. All may be frosted if desired except Coffee cake. Jelly roll. Beat egg until light and add the sugar gradu- ally ; then add the milk, flour sifted with baking-powder and salt, and lastly the butter (melted). Line bottom of dripping- pan with buttered paper. Spread mixture evenly in pan and bake I2min. in a moderate oven. Take from oven and turn on cheesecloth or paper sprinkled with powdered sugar. Re- move paper and cut off thin edges of cake. Spread with jelly or jam beaten a little, and roll. Then roll cake in cloth or paper till cool enough to retain its shape. STARCH 53 Apricot roll. Make like Jelly roll, using stewed apricots instead of jelly. Layer cake. Mix according to General Directions, flavor with lemon or orange extract, and bake in layer-cake tins or gem-pans about 1 5 to 20 min. in a rather hot oven. Use any filling desired. Cup cakes I. Mix according to General Directions, flavor with any extract, and bake in gem-pans 15 to 20 min. in a rather hot oven. Cup cakes II. Follow directions for Cup cakes I (above). Loaf cake. Reserve the white of 1 egg for the frosting. Flavor cake with vanilla or | tsp. vanilla and ^ tsp. almond ; 4 tb. grated chocolate may be added if desired. Bake in an oblong cake-pan 35 to 40 min. in a moderate oven. Sour-milk cake. Flavor with lemon juice and grated rind and bake in an oblong cake-pan in a moderate oven. Coffee cake. Additional ingredients : \ c. molasses, \ c. strong coffee. Flavor with spice, allowing twice as much cinnamon as cloves and nutmeg mixed. Bake in a deep cake- pan 45 to 55 min. in a slow oven and do not frost. White layer cake. Flavor with vanilla and bake in two round or oblong layer-cake pans. Fill with Fig filling (p. 58), Chocolate filling (p. 58), or Orange filling (p. 58). White cake. Flavor with almond and bake in an oblong cake-pan 35 to 40 min. A c. sliced citron or chopped nuts may be added if desired. Chocolate cake. Additional ingredient: 2 oz. melted choco- late. Flavor with vanilla and add chocolate last. Bake 40 min. in a shallow cake-pan. V SUGAR CANDY Source. Sugar cane, sugar beet, maple, fruits, milk, honey. Food Value. A source of carbohydrates. Cost. Granulated sugar, J§ to 8^ per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. Sugar Water Flavor- ing Nuts But- ter Mo- lasses Milk Choc- olate Cream of Tartar Price Nut brittle . . Barley candy Peppermints . . Fondant . . . Fudge .... Panocha . . . Caramels . . . Butter taffy . . 2 C. 2 C. 2 C. 2 C. 2 C. 2.Vc. 1 c. 2 C * c 3 *-• ■2- C 3 '— f C ' 3 tb. i tsp. 6 dr. 1 tsp. 1 tsp. 1 tsp. 1 tsp. I c. f-i c. 3 tb. 3 tb. 3 tb. 4 tb. lie. f c. 2 oz. 30Z. itsp. General Directions. Use white sugar for the first five recipes, and brown sugar for the remainder. Flavor with vanilla except for Barley candy, which requires lemon juice, and Peppermints, which require oil of peppermint. Measure ingredients, chop nuts, butter pans, and have ice water ready for testing, before beginning to cook the candy. Nut brittle. Put the sugar into an agate saucepan or a frying-pan and stir constantly until melted and light brown. Add the nuts to this while on the fire ; then pour immediately into a pan, which should be large so that the candy will not be over i in. thick. Mark in small squares when it begins to cool, and break when brittle. 54 SUGAR 55 Barley candy. Put ingredients into an agate saucepan and stir over slight heat till sugar is dissolved. Then allow the candy to boil without stirring until it is very brittle when dropped into ice water. While cooking, the grains of sugar should be wiped off the sides of the saucepan with a pastry brush or a cloth, moistened well with cold water. When the candy is done, pour into pan and cut as above. Peppermints. Cook as for Barley candy (above) until the sirup will form a ball in ice water. Remove from the fire and let stand 10 min. Then flavor and beat until the candy grows thick and creamy. Drop by the teaspoonful on paraffin paper and remove when cold. This candy may be flavored with wintergreen and colored pink, or with vanilla and I oz. of melted chocolate. Fondant. Cook as for Peppermints (above) until the soft-ball stage is reached. Let stand 5 min. and pour out upon a well- greased platter. When the bottom of the platter is cool enough to be held on the hand, work the mixture with a wooden spoon till it becomes creamy, then knead into a smooth, firm ball, put into a bowl or jar, cover with paraffin paper and a plate, and let stand 24 hr. or longer. It may then be melted in a double boiler and used for dipping bonbons or for mints. Centers for creamed dates and walnuts should be shaped from bits of the unmelted fondant. Fudge. Put all ingredients except vanilla into an agate saucepan and boil, stirring seldom, until the mixture will form a ball in cold water. Flavor, set the pan into cold water, and beat till candy is creamy, or let it stand for 10 to 15 min. and then beat the candy. Pour into pan, and when cold cut in squares. Panocha. Make like Fudge (above), adding nuts and flavor- ing after the candy is cooked. Caramels. Put butter into saucepan and when melted add all other ingredients except vanilla ; stir constantly till chocolate is melted. Boil until mixture will form a firm ball 56 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK when tested in cold water ; then add vanilla and pour into pan. Mark in squares when cool, and when hard enough, break and wrap in paraffin paper. Butter taffy. Additional ingredient: I tb. lemon juice. Boil all ingredients except butter and vanilla until the mixture is brittle when dropped into cold water. Add butter just before removing from the fire and vanilla before pouring into pan. Cool and mark in squares. FROSTINGS AND CAKE FILLINGS Source. General. Food Value. Chiefly as a source of sugar. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Granu- lated Sugar Confec- tioner's Sugar Water Milk White of Egg Egg Yolks Fla- vor- ing But- ter Lemon Juice Price Plain frosting — fc 2 tsp. — I — — — itb. Confectioner's frosting . — fc 2 tb. — — — itsp. — — Boiled frosting I c. — ic. — I — — — itb. Ornamental frosting . . — I c. — — ■ I — — — i tsp. Orange frost- ing . . . . — fc. — — — I — — i tsp. Caramel frost- ing . . . . ii c. — ic. — I — itsp. — — Chocolate frosting II . ii c. — f c - — — — itsp. — — Chocolate frosting III — I c. — ic — I itsp. — — Milk frosting . lie. — — ic. — — itsp. itsp. — Cream filling . I c. — — 2 C. 2 2 itsp. — — Lemon filling . I c. — ic. I I — i tsp. 1 r 4 C. Fig filling . . ic. — ic. — — 2 tb. Chocolate fill- ing . . . . — lie. — 3 tb. I itsp. — — Prune-almond filling . . . I c. — ic. — I — — — itb. SUGAR 57 General Directions. Most uncooked frostings should be spread on the cake when it is slightly warm. Cooked frostings and confectioner's frosting may be put on the cake when it is cold, and if difficult to spread, a knife dipped in boiling water may be used. To test sirup for frosting, take up a little on the end of teaspoon or fork. Let it drip above the saucepan, and if a fine thread blows off from the drop, the sirup is ready to use. Plain frosting. Beat white of egg until stiff ; add water, then sugar. Flavor (A tsp. vanilla or lemon extract may be sub- stituted for the lemon juice), and add more sugar if frosting is not stiff enough to spread. Confectioner's frosting. Add enough sugar to the water (boil- ing) to make it stiff enough to spread. Flavor and use at once. Boiled frosting. Cook sugar and water, as for Fondant (p. 55), until sirup threads. Pour slowly on the well-beaten egg white, and continue beating until frosting is thick enough to spread. Flavor. Chocolate frosting I. Melt I oz. chocolate and add to Boiled frosting while beating. Coffee frosting. Substitute A c. coffee for the water and omit vanilla. Follow recipe for Boiled frosting. Ornamental frosting. Add 3 tb. of the sugar to the unbeaten egg ; beat 2 min. Add 3 tb. more and repeat till all the sugar has been used ; the lemon juice may be added gradually as mixture stiffens. Add more sugar if needed to make the frost- ing stiff enough to spread. Test by taking a little on back of spoon and making a cut through ; if separation remains, frosting is ready to use for surface covering. If used with pastry tube, it may require still more sugar. Orange frosting. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. orange juice, grated rind 1 orange, and 1 tsp. grated lemon rind. Let the rind stand in the fruit juice for 5 min., then add this to egg yolk (slightly beaten), with enough sugar to make it of the proper consistency to spread. 58 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Caramel frosting. Use brown sugar and make like Boiled frosting (p. 57). \ c - chopped nuts may be added. Chocolate frosting II. Additional ingredient : 3 oz. choco- late. Cook sugar and water till sirup threads, and pour slowly on the melted chocolate. Beat till thick ; flavor and spread. Chocolate frosting III. Additional ingredients : 2 oz. choc- olate, spk. salt. Melt chocolate over hot water ; add the milk slowly, then salt, yolk of egg, and flavoring. Mix till smooth, and stir in enough sugar to stiffen the mixture. Milk frosting. Put ingredients in saucepan. Stir to dissolve the sugar and boil 10 min. without stirring. Beat until thick enough to use ; flavor and spread. Crease when cool. Cream filling. Additional ingredients : 6 tb. flour, 1 tsp. salt. Use eggs whole. Scald milk. Mix sugar and flour, pour on them the hot milk, return to double boiler, and cook for 10 min., stirring till thick. Add this to the eggs and cook 2 min. longer. Flavor and cool. Chocolate cream filling. Use recipe for Cream filling and add 1 oz. melted chocolate with the eggs. Coffee cream filling. Use 1 c. strong coffee with 1 c. milk for the liquid and omit vanilla. Follow recipe for Cream filling. Lemon filling. Additional ingredients : rind of 2 lemons (grated), 4 tb. flour. Mix sugar and flour, add rind, lemon juice, water, and egg (slightly beaten). Put butter in a saucepan ; when melted add the mixture and stir till it boils, being careful not to burn it. Cool before spreading. Orange filling. Make like Lemon filling, using only | c. sugar, and rind of 1 orange instead of rind of 2 lemons. Substitute for the lemon juice 4 tb. orange juice and 1 tb. lemon juice. Fig filling. Additional ingredient : I c. finely chopped figs. Cook in a double boiler till thick enough to spread. Chocolate filling. Additional ingredient : 2 oz. chocolate. Melt chocolate in double boiler, add the sugar and milk ; when smooth add egg yolk. Stir in double boiler till thick enough to use. Flavor, and cool slightly. SUGAR 59 Prune-almond filling. Additional ingredients : | c. prunes (cut in fine strips), | c. almonds (blanched and shredded). Add these to Boiled frosting (p. 57) and use for White layer cake (p. 53). PUDDING SAUCES Source. General. Food Value. For carbohydrates. Cost. See price of individual items. Granu- lated Sugar But- ter Milk Water Eggs Fla- voring Flour Pow- dered Sugar Choc- olate Price Lemon sauce . . f c 2 tsp. — lie. — . — 3 tb. — — Vanilla sauce . . f c 2 tsp. — lie. — J- tsp. 3 tb. — — Brown-sugar sauce .... I c. I tb. — ic. — i tsp. i±tb. — — Egg sauce . . . — — 4 tb. — 1 itsp. — f c. — Hard sauce . . — 2tb. — 1 tb. — i tsp. — I c. — Creamy sauce . . — ic. 2tb. — — 1 tsp. — ic. — Foamy sauce . . — 2tb. 3 tb. — 2 1 tsp. — 1 c. — Orange sauce . . — — — — 2 — — f c. — Chocolate sauce . 1 c. — — lie. I £tsp. — — 2 OZ. Fudge sauce . . I c. 1 tb. i c 3 **" — — itsp. — — I OZ. General Directions. Use boiling water where water is required, and flavor with vanilla extract unless otherwise specified. Lemon sauce. Additional ingredient : juice of \ lemon. Mix flour and sugar in saucepan and add hot liquid ; put saucepan on stove, and stir sauce till it boils ; then simmer for 20 min. Add other ingredients and serve. Fruit sauce. Follow recipe for Lemon sauce, using sirup from canned peaches or other fruits in place of all or part of the water. Add A tb. lemon juice if flavor is not strong enough. Vanilla sauce. Make like Lemon sauce (above). Brown-sugar sauce. Use brown sugar and make like Lemon sauce (above). 60 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Egg sauce. Heat milk ; beat the egg until foamy, then gradually add the sugar, beating constantly. Flavor, and just before serving beat in the milk. Hard sauce. Cream the butter, add part of the sugar, then i tsp. water. Continue till all materials have been used, flavor, heap lightly on a serving-dish, grate nutmeg over the top, and chill. Creamy sauce. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and then the milk, drop by drop (sauce will curdle if milk is added too fast). Flavor, and chill slightly before serving. Foamy sauce. Cream the butter, add the sugar, the eggs (well beaten), and the milk, and beat over hot water till foamy. Flavor and serve at once. Orange sauce. Additional ingredients : juice and rind of i orange, juice of i lemon. Use only the whites of eggs. Beat till stiff, add sugar gradually, and continue beating ; then fold in the rind and fruit juice. Apricot sauce. Use i c. stewed and sifted apricot pulp in place of the orange, and proceed as for Orange sauce. Chocolate sauce. Additional ingredients : I tb. cornstarch, spk. salt, \ c. cold water. Boil sugar and water for 5 min. Mix cornstarch with cold water, add salt, and then slowly the hot sirup. When well mixed pour over the melted chocolate and boil 2 min., stirring constantly ; add beaten egg and cook 2 min. longer. Flavor and serve hot. Fudge sauce. Mix all ingredients except vanilla, boil for 7 min., stirring occasionally. Flavor and serve hot. VI PROTEIDS MILK Source. Obtained chiefly from cows and goats. Food Value. Contains all the food principles, but combined with so much water that large quantities of milk must be taken to sustain life. Greatest value lies in its proteids. Cost. Whole milk, 8$ to 15$ per qt. 4 c. = 1 qt. Skim milk, 6$ to 80 per qt. Milk Sugar Junket Tablet Salt Vanilla Boiling Water Price Caramel junket .... Cottage cheese .... 2 C. 2 C. 4 c. ic. I I Spk. Spk. i tsp. £ tsp. itsp. i c Plain junket. Roll tablet fine ; heat milk until just luke- warm and add other ingredients. Stir a very little and pour into a serving-dish to harden. Serve with sugar and cream. Vary by using 1 tb. cocoa with the sugar. Caramel junket. Brown the sugar, add boiling water, and cook until reduced to | c. When cool add to lukewarm milk and proceed as for Plain junket. Serve with sweetened and flavored whipped cream. Cottage cheese. Use sour milk. Heat gradually until just lukewarm, strain, and press out all the whey. Add salt and a little cream, or butter. Pack into a mold to harden. Note. Butter may be made from milk by allowing the milk to stand long enough for the cream to rise. The milk should then be skimmed and the cream churned or shaken in a jar until the fat separates from the butter- milk. The butter should be thoroughly washed in ice water to remove all liquid and may then be salted if desired. Sweet or sour cream may be used. 61 62 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK CHEESE Source. Made from milk. Food Value. For protein ; also for fat and mineral salts. Cost. Cheese, variable. 3 c. = i lb. Cheese Milk Eggs But- ter Mus- tard Salt Cay- enne Pepper Soda Flour Price Creamed cheese . ic I C. I I tb. itsp. itsp. Spk. itsp. 2tb. Cheese fondue f c I C. I itb. itsp. ftsp. Spk. itsp. — Welsh rabbit . . I c. I C. 2 1 tsp. itsp. itsp. Spk. itsp. — Toasted cheese custard . . . I c. 2 C. 2 itb. itsp. itsp. Spk. itsp. — Cheese souffle . . ic. ±c. 3 2tb. — itsp. Spk. — 4 tb. Cheese pudding . I c. 2 C. 1 2tb. itsp. itsp. Spk. itsp. — Creamed cheese. Melt butter, add flour, pour on slowly the hot milk, and cook until thick. Add the cheese chopped fine, and when melted add seasoning, soda, and beaten egg. Cook 1 min. and serve at once on slices of toast, crackers, or molds of boiled rice. Cheese fondue. Additional ingredient : 1 c. soft bread crumbs. Melt butter ; add milk, crumbs, and chopped cheese. Stir till cheese is melted, add seasonings, soda, and beaten egg, and stir till mixture thickens. Tomato may be substituted for the milk. Welsh rabbit. Cook all ingredients except egg in a double boiler until cheese is melted and smooth. Add egg and continue cooking until mixture thickens. If it becomes very stringy, more milk may be added and the mixture cooked again. Serve on toast or browned crackers. Tomato may be used in place of milk. Toasted cheese custard. Additional ingredient : 6 slices toasted bread. Scald milk and pour slowly onto the beaten eggs ; then add the cheese (grated), the seasonings, and soda. Cut the slices of toast into strips, dip into custard, one PROTEIDS 63 at a time, and place in a buttered baking-dish. Melt butter, add to remaining custard, and pour over the bread. Bake in a moderate oven till custard is firm and brown. Cheese souffle. Melt butter, add flour, and when well mixed gradually add the scalded milk. Then add salt, cayenne pepper, and cheese. Remove from fire and add tgg yolks beaten until lemon-colored. Cool the mixture ; cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Pour into a buttered baking- dish and bake 20 min. in a slow oven. Serve at once. Cheese pudding. Additional ingredients : 3 slices bread, 1 tb. chopped green pepper. Scald milk and dissolve in it cheese, seasonings, and soda ; then add to beaten egg. Pour this over the bread (buttered and cut in tiny cubes), add pepper, and bake in a buttered baking-dish or ramekins till firm. EGGS Hot Egg Dishes Source. Many kinds of eggs may be used for food, but those of the domestic hen are chiefly used. Food Value. A source of protein. Cost. Variable. 8 eggs = 1 lb. (approximate) Eggs Boiling Water Salt Toast Soft-cooked eggs Hard-cooked eggs Scrambled eggs Dropped eggs Omelet . . . Creamy eggs . Creamed eggs Baked eggs 1 qt. I qt. I qt. 2 tb. 2 tb. 2 tb. 2 tb. 2 tb. 1 tb. i tsp T tsp i tsp itsp i tsp i tsp 4 tb. 4 tb. 4slices 4slices A ts P- itsp. tV ts P- A tsp. T6 ts P- Soft-cooked eggs. Put eggs into a saucepan, pour over them the boiling water, and let stand in warm place from 5 to 10 min. ; or put eggs into cold water and remove when water reaches boiling point. 64 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Hard-cooked eggs. Cook as for Soft-cooked eggs, leaving eggs in hot water 45 to 50 min. If time is an object, they may be boiled for 15 min., but will be less digestible. Scrambled eggs. Beat the eggs slightly, add milk, salt, and pepper. Melt butter in a double boiler or a saucepan over an asbestos plate. Add the egg and stir constantly until thickened. Serve on toast, in potato cases, or in a deep dish alone. Scrambled eggs with tomato. Use J c. tomato in place of the milk and cook as in Scrambled eggs. Dried beef may also be added to the egg. Allow \X.o\ lb.; shred, soak 15 min. in warm water, then drain and cook with the egg. Dropped eggs. Make toast first, dip edges in boiling salted water, butter it, and put on a platter. Butter a frying-pan, put in water and salt, and when water reaches boiling point break in the eggs, one at a time. Pour the water over them gently with a spoon, and when the white is set take out carefully with a skimmer and serve on the hot toast. Omelet. Separate yolks and whites of the eggs and beat the whites stiff. Beat the yolks and add salt, pepper, and milk (or water if preferred). Melt butter in a frying-pan, and when brown, fold the beaten whites into the yolks mixture and turn at once into the hot butter. Cook without stirring until brown, then set frying-pan into the oven until the egg is firm. Fold in the middle and turn onto a hot platter. Bread omelet. Add to the egg yolks \ c. soft bread crumbs soaked in -|- c. scalded milk and omit liquid called for in recipe. Make as for Omelet. Either of these omelets may be served with Cheese sauce (p. 30) or Tomato sauce (p. 31); and chopped ham, grated cheese, or peas may be folded into them. Creamy eggs. Scald milk and add to it the butter, season- ings, and eggs (slightly beaten) ; cook till mixture thickens and serve on slices of toast. Creamed eggs. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. flour, | tsp. paprika. Cook the eggs hard and slice them ; reheat in a white sauce made from the other ingredients. These may be scalloped. PROTEIDS 65 Goldenrod eggs. Ingredients as for Creamed eggs. Chop the whites, mix with the sauce, and pour over buttered toast. Rub yolks through a strainer and sprinkle over the sauce. Baked eggs. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. flour, A c. but- tered crumbs. Break the eggs into buttered ramekins, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with crumbs and a white sauce made from the other ingredients, and bake in a pan of hot water till crumbs are brown. Sauce and crumbs may be omitted, or \ c. chopped cheese may be added to the sauce. Egg Desserts Source. General. Food Value. A source of protein and carbohydrates. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Milk Eggs Sugar Salt Flour Tapi- oca Flavor- ing But- ter Fruit Price Baked custard . . 2 C. 2 1 C 3 '-• itsp. — — itsp. — — Soft custard . . . 2 C. 2 i c 3 L> itsp. — — itsp. — — Tapioca custard . . 2 C. I 4 c 3 *" itsp. — 2 tb. itsp. — — Baked tapioca pud- ding 2 C. I ic. itsp. — i c 3 '- itsp. itb. — Apple snow . . . lie. 2 ic. itsp. — — J- tsp. — 1 c. Prune souffle . . . 2 C. 3 ic. itsp. — — itsp. — I c. Vanilla souffle . . I C. 3 ic. itsp. ic. — itsp. 2 tb. — Chocolate souffle . f c. 3 ic. itsp. 2 tb. — 1 tsp. 2tb. — Rice pineapple pud- ding I C. 2 ic. itsp. — — — — i c Delmonico pudding 2 C. 3 ic. — — — i tsp. 1 tsp. I c. General Directions. Use vanilla for flavoring unless some- thing else is specified. Baked tapioca pudding and the souffles should be served as soon as taken from the oven. Other desserts should be served cold. Use fruit indicated by name of recipe. Meringue. In making the meringues for these desserts the whites of the eggs should be beaten stiff and half the sugar 66 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK beaten in ; the remainder of the sugar should then be care- fully folded in. Allow 4 tb. powdered sugar to whites of 3 eggs. Baked meringue. Allow the whites of 3 eggs and 8 tb. powdered sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff and beat in A the sugar with egg-beater. Fold in remainder of sugar and bake 10 to 12 min. in a moderate oven. Baked custard. Scald milk ; beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt, and slowly pour on this the hot milk, stirring con- stantly. Flavor, put into buttered cups, set in a pan of hot water, and bake until custard is firm. When done, a knife blade put into the center will not look milky. Chocolate custard. Use recipe for Baked custard, adding 2 tb. cocoa to the sugar. The yolks of 3 eggs may be sub- stituted for 2 whole eggs. Caramel custard. Use I c. instead of i c. sugar, brown it, and dissolve it in the hot milk. Then proceed as for Baked custard. Soft custard. Prepare as for Baked custard (above), return to double boiler after adding milk, and cook, stirring con- stantly, until mixture thickens on spoon. Strain at once and flavor when cool. Soft chocolate custard. Add 2 tb. cocoa to Soft custard. Soft caramel custard. Add \ c. caramelized sugar to Soft custard. Fruit custard. Make by recipe for Soft custard, adding 1 c. of sliced bananas, oranges, pineapple, cooked dried apricots, prunes, or peaches, or a mixture of the first three. If a me- ringue is desired, use only egg yolks for the custard, allowing 1 extra, and reserve the whites for the Meringue (p. 65). Tapioca custard. Cook prepared tapioca in milk until trans- parent, then proceed as for Soft custard (above). The white of egg may be beaten separately and stirred into custard when it is removed from fire, or may be reserved for a meringue. If pearl or flake tapioca are used, allow twice as much, wash, and soak for several hours in cold water. Drain before using. PROTEIDS 67 Baked tapioca pudding. Use pearl tapioca. Soak 1 hr. in cold water to cover ; drain, add to milk, and cook in double boiler 30 min. Beat egg slightly, add sugar and salt, then gradually pour over it the hot mixture. Flavor, pour into a buttered baking-dish, add butter, and bake 30 min. in slow oven. Serve hot, with butter or cream. Apple snow. Additional ingredients : 1 c. apple sauce or scraped baked apple (rather dry), 6 tb. powdered sugar. Make a soft custard, using the milk, egg yolks, granulated sugar, salt, and flavoring. Beat the whites of eggs stiff ; add the powdered sugar a little at a time, then the fruit gradually, beating all the time. The fruit must be cold when used and the mixture chilled before serving. Heap lightly in a dish and pour the custard round it. Prime zvJiip. Substitute cooked prunes for the apples in Apple snow and flavor the white-of-egg mixture with a few drops of lemon juice. Prune souffle. Additional ingredients : 6 tb. powdered sugar, 1 tb. lemon juice. Make the custard and white-of-egg mixture as for Apple snow (above), using stewed and sifted prunes. Pile the whip on a buttered baking-dish and bake 30 min. in a moderate oven. Serve with the custard or whipped cream as sauce. Vanilla souffle. Beat egg yolks well, add the sugar, and when well mixed stir slowly into the mixture the flour, butter, and milk, cooked as for White sauce (p. 30). When slightly cool fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. Flavor and pour into a buttered baking-dish. Bake 30 min. in a moderate oven. Serve at once with Creamy sauce (p. 60) or Foamy sauce (p. 60). Chocolate souffle. Additional ingredients : 3 oz. chocolate, 2 tb. boiling water. Make as for Vanilla souffle (above), adding chocolate and water, cooked till smooth, to the flour mixture. May be served with plain or whipped cream or with Creamy sauce (p. 60). 68 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Rice pineapple pudding. Additional ingredient : i c. steamed rice. Cut fruit in small pieces and add to the rice with sugar, salt, milk, and egg yolks. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites, pour into a well-buttered dish, and bake 30 min. in a moderate oven. Serve with cream or with Foamy sauce (p. 60). Delmonico pudding. Additional ingredients : 3 tb. corn- starch, 4 tb. powdered sugar. Use any canned or fresh fruit, as desired. Make as for Baked cornstarch pudding ($. 27), reserv- ing whites of eggs and powdered sugar for a meringue, and placing fruit and a little sirup in bottom of baking-dish. Pour cornstarch mixture over this. Cover with the meringue 10 min. before removing from oven, and bake till firm and brown. Cooked Salad Dressings Source. General. Food Value. A source of protein and fat. Cost. See cost of items. Plain salad dressing Rich salad dressing Butter salad dressing Hot salad dressing Milk I c. Vin- egar 2tb. 2tb. Eggs Salt £tsp. i tsp. itsp. *tsp. Cay- enne Pepper Spk. Spk. Spk. Spk. Mus- tard £tsp. 1 tsp. £tsp. itsp. Pa- prika i-tsp. itsp. £tsp. But- ter 1 tsp. 2 tb. 4 tb. 2tb. Flour I tb. I tb. i tsp Price Plain salad dressing. Scald milk and heat vinegar. Mix salt, mustard, pepper, and flour ; add egg, and when well blended stir in the milk. Return to double boiler, add vin- egar, and stir until mixture thickens. Remove from fire and add butter. Strain and chill before using. 2 egg yolks may be substituted for the whole egg. Cream dressing. Use \ c. cream in place of the milk, and follow above recipe. Rich salad dressing. Mix dry ingredients, add to beaten eggs, then add the milk and vinegar, and cook in double boiler, stirring constantly, till thick as cream. Chill before using. PROTEIDS 69 Butter salad dressing. Additional ingredient: \z. boiling water. Beat egg and add to it the dry ingredients mixed. Put water, vinegar, and butter into a saucepan and bring to the boiling point. Pour this slowly on the egg, stirring con- stantly ; return to saucepan and stir over moderate heat till mixture thickens. Use for potato or vegetable salad, mixing with the salad while hot. Chill the salad before serving. Hot salad dressing. Additional ingredients : |c. water, 2 tb. sugar. Heat vinegar and water, add other ingredients, and when well mixed use as directed for Hot slaiv (p. 70). Simple Salads Potato Eggs Dress- ing Let- tuce Vege- tables Cab- bage Onion Price Potato salad . . 2 c. — I rule I — — I tsp. Egg salad . . . — 4 1 rule I — — — Vegetable salad . I c. — 1 rule I 2 C. — i tsp. Cold slaw . . . — — 1 rule — 2 C. — Hot slaw .... — — 1 rule — — 2 C. — General Directions. Lettuce should be prepared according to directions (p. 15). Cooked vegetables (including potatoes) should be cut in well-shaped pieces or in cubes. Cabbage should be shredded fine (see p. 16). Potato salad. Prepare potatoes ; just before serving mix with Plain salad dressing (p. 68) (or Butter salad dressing (above) may be used as directed) and serve on lettuce leaves. Season with scraped onion. Egg-and-potato salad. Allow 4 hard-cooked eggs and add to recipe for Potato salad, as follows : Cut potatoes in cubes and slice the eggs ; chill and mix with the dressing. Garnish and serve on lettuce. Whites of eggs may be chopped and mixed with the potato and dressing, the yolks being rubbed through a strainer and sprinkled over the salad. Egg salad. Prepare lettuce ; cook eggs hard, then cut in halves and serve on lettuce leaves with salad dressing. Yolks 70 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK may be mashed and mixed with a little of the dressing, then shaped and put back into the whites. Use Plain salad dressing (p. 68). Vegetable salad. Cut vegetables in well-shaped pieces, mix with the dressing, and serve on lettuce leaves or without. Potatoes, beets, beans, and carrots make a good combination. Use Plain salad dressing (p. 68) or Rich salad dressing (p. 68). Cold slaw. Prepare cabbage according to General Direc- tions ; just before serving drain thoroughly and mix with Plain salad dressing (p. 68). Hot slaw. Prepare cabbage, and when Hot salad dressing (p. 69) is cooked, pour it over the cabbage. Cook over boiling water for 10 min. MEAT Source. Flesh of various animals, used as food. The most common meats are as follows : beef from the ox ; mutton from the sheep ; pork from the pig ; veal from the calf ; venison from the deer ; lamb from the lamb. Food Value. Largely for protein ; contains some fat. Cost. Variable. General Directions. As soon as meat is received from the market remove it from the paper and place on a plate in the refrigerator. When ready to use trim' off any discolored portion and wipe with a damp cloth. Fresh meat is bright in color, firm to touch, has no unpleasant odor, and is never slimy. Roast, Broiled, and Boiled Meats etc. Roast meat. Use lamb, mutton, beef, veal, or pork, select- ing tender cuts. Remove superfluous fat and trim off any dis- colored meat. Wipe thoroughly with a cloth wet in cold water, and sprinkle with flour, salt, and pepper. Place on a rack in a PROTEIDS 71 dripping-pan, with pieces of the fat laid underneath. Put into a rather hot oven, and as soon as the meat is seared, reduce the heat, put a little water in the pan, and finish cooking the meat slowly. Allow 10 min. to a pound if desired rare, 15 min. if well done. If the gravy in the pan is very fatty, skim off 4 tb. of fat and use for making a brown sauce for the meat. If not fatty, 6 tb. flour may be mixed with a little cold water and the hot liquid in the pan poured slowly on it. The gravy should then be boiled, seasoned, and strained. Any drippings not used for the gravy may be saved and added to soup stock. If very fatty, use for fried potatoes. Broiled meat. Use rump, sirloin, or tenderloin steak, or mutton, lamb, or veal chops. Pork chops are usually sauted in their own fat. Round steak is sometimes used, but the meat is tough and may be better if cooked in other ways. Wipe the meat thoroughly with a damp cloth and trim off the fat. Grease a broiler with the meat fat, put in the steak, and cook over a hot fire from 8 to 12 min., according to the thickness of the meat. Turn every 10 sec, to sear both sides evenly. Put on a hot platter, and season well with salt, pepper, and butter. Pan-broiled meat. If a coal fire is not available, the meat may be pan-broiled ; that is, cooked in a frying-pan heated very hot and thoroughly greased, but with no fat left in pan. The meat should be turned frequently, as in broiling. When cooked, season and serve like broiled meat. Boiled meat. A leg or shoulder of mutton is generally used for boiling, other methods of cooking being more suitable for the other fresh meats. Wipe meat with a damp cloth and trim off superfluous fat. Plunge into boiling water and boil for 10 min. Then draw back on the stove and cook gently till done. Allow 10 min. per lb. if desired rare, 15 min. if well done. Serve with Drazvn-butter sauce (p. 29) to which \ c. capers have been added. Save the water for broth or stock and skim when cold. 72 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Sauted meat. This method is commonly called frying, but since no fat is used except that which "tries out" from the meat, " sauteing is a more correct term. Ham, sliced, is gen- erally used. Allow a slice of ham weighing from I to il lb. for four people. It should be cut from f to i in. thick. Cover with warm water and let stand 15 min. Drain and wipe dry. Put into a hot frying-pan, brown quickly on both sides, then draw back on the stove and cook slowly for 1 5 min. Chops may be cooked by this method. Corned and smoked meats. Beef, ox tongue, and pork (smoked shoulder and ham) are usually selected for preserving by these methods. The fibers of the meat are toughened by curing, so it is necessary to allow a much longer time for cook- ing them (30 to 40 min. per lb.). Smoked meats should be soaked overnight before cooking, and both corned and smoked meats should be put over the fire in cold water and heated gradually. The water should then be allowed to boil very gently till the meat is tender. Corned beef may be served hot or may be pressed into a pan, weighted, and chilled so that it can be turned out of the mold. Sometimes the superfluous fat is removed and the meat chopped before pressing. This makes a more delicate dish. Corned shoulder is served hot or cold. Ox tongue, whether corned or smoked, should be trimmed and skinned after cook- ing, and served cold. Smoked shoulder or ham should be skinned, sprinkled with bread crumbs, stuck with whole cloves, and baked until brown (30 to 45 min.). It may then be served hot, with a brown sauce to which \ glass of currant jelly has been added, or served cold, without sauce. Meat Soups Source. See Meat. Food Value. Slightly valuable as a source of protein. Cost. Variable. PROTEIDS 73 Meat Water Onion Vege- tables Cloves Barley Rice Pepper- corns Salt Price Soup stock . 5 lb. 3 qt- ic. I T C. 10 — — IO i tb. Lamb broth . 2 lb. 2 qt. i — — — 1 c 3 '-■ — i tb. Scotch broth 2 lb. 2 qt. i lie. — ic. — i tb. White stock . 61b. 4 qt- i 1 c 4 L - 6 — — 6 i tb. Oxtail soup . 2 2qt. i 3 r 4" C - — — — — |tb. General Directions. Meat should be cleaned and all dark portions rejected. Use cold water and simmer the soup. Where vegetables are required, a mixture of carrots, turnips, and celery is desirable (about half as much celery as of either of the others). Some salt may be added while meat is cooking. Pepper, and more salt if needed, should be added when soup is served. Save all meat from soup stock for made dishes. Soup stock. Additional ingredient: small bunch of herbs. Wipe meat, cut into small pieces, and have the bones cracked. Put the marrow, fat, bones, and meat into a kettle with the cold water. Let stand 30 min. ; then heat slowly to boiling point and cook gently 4 to 6 hr. with kettle covered. Prepare vegetables, cut in small pieces, add to the stock, with season- ings, and cook 1 hr. longer. Strain and cool quickly. Part of the meat may be rolled in flour and browned in a little of the meat fat, to give the soup a richer color. Use as a founda- tion for vegetable, rice, macaroni, tomato, and other soups. Bones and bits of cold cooked meat may be used for a soup stock, but the amount of water and seasonings should in that case be somewhat reduced. Lamb broth. Use neck of lamb or mutton. Wipe meat with a damp cloth and cut in small pieces. Put bones, gristle, and onion into the cold water and simmer gently for 2 hr. Cool slightly and skim off the fat or absorb it with clean brown paper. Strain over the meat and cook until latter is almost tender. Then add the rice, well washed ; boil for 20 min., season, and serve. 74 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Scotch broth. Cook meat etc. as for Lamb broth (p. 73). Soak barley several hours and add it to the broth when the meat is added. Heat the vegetables in 2 tb. drippings or butter and cook in the soup until tender, adding them when broth from bones is strained over meat. White stock. Use celery only for the vegetables and buy knuckle of veal for the meat. Make like Soup stock (p. 73) without browning the meat. Use for white soups. Chicken or fowl may be used in place of the veal. Oxtail soup. Additional ingredients : ^ c. salt-pork cubes, 2 tb. butter, 2 tb. flour. Have the oxtails cut at joints. Try out salt pork, roll meat in flour, and brown in pork fat. Cook in water 4 hr., add vegetables, using no turnip, and season well. Cook 1 hr. longer ; strain, cool, and remove fat. Take meat from bones and put back into soup. Cook butter and flour together till brown, add the soup, and heat. Season, if necessary, and serve. Made Dishes Uncooked Meat Source. See Meat. Food Value. Chiefly for protein. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Meat Pota- toes Mixed Vege- tables Water Salt Onion Pepper Drip- pings Flour Price Beef stew . . 2 lb. 4 2 C. 2qt. itb. I itsp. — 3 tb. Lamb or veal stew 2 lb. 4 — 2 qt. itb. i itsp. — — Italian stew • • lib. — — 1 c. 1 tsp. i tb. — — — Braised meat 2 lb. — 2 C. — itb. 1 itsp. — — Jellied meat . . 2£lb. — I qt. itb. — — — — Hamburg steak . i£lb. — — 2 C. itb. 1 tsp. itsp. 3 tb. 5tb. Roast cannelon . iilb. — — — itb. itb. itsp. — — Meat loaf I . . 2 lb. — itb. 1 tsp. itsp. — — Meat rolls . . 1 Mb. — — I C. itb. 1 tsp. itsp. 41b. — Liver and bacon lib. — — i-r c 1 tsp. — itsp. — 4tb. PROTEIDS 75 General Directions. Mixed vegetables include carrots and turnips. If a small amount of onion is used, it should be finely chopped or scraped. Drippings may be from salt pork, bacon, or other meat ; butter may be substituted if preferred. More seasoning may be added. Beef stew. Use beef from the neck, shoulder, or lower round. Wipe meat with a damp cloth, remove gristle, bones, and poorer parts of the meat, put them into cold water, and heat slowly to boiling point. Cut remainder of meat into inch cubes, roll them in the flour, and brown in a little of the meat fat, with the onion sliced thin. Add this to rest of meat etc. when the water reaches the boiling point. Cook slowly till meat is tender, i hr. before stew is to be served add carrot and turnip (prepared and cut in small cubes). Potatoes should be cut in eighths, parboiled, and cooked in the stew for 20 min. Season highly and remove large bones before serving. The stew may be thickened with flour if desired, and Dumplings (p. 43) may be served with it. Lamb or veal stew. Use shoulder of lamb or veal. Make like Beef stew without browning the meat and onion, and omit the vegetables. Italian stew. Additional ingredients : 2 c. tomatoes, 1 c. spaghetti, \\ slices salt pork, J tsp. curry, 1 tsp. paprika. Use raw meat (preferably round of beef), and run through meat- chopper. Break spaghetti in small pieces, cook in boiling salted water till tender, and drain. Cut salt pork in cubes and try it out, adding the onion chopped fine. Stir the chopped meat into this, and when brown add all the other ingredients. Heat thoroughly and serve as the main dish for a meal. Curry may be omitted, and 4 tb. grated cheese added if desired. Braised meat. Additional ingredient : 2-inch cube salt pork. Use beef from bottom of round, vein, or aitchbone or use shoulder of lamb or veal. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and trim into shape. Slice the pork and onions and cook together till brown. Dredge meat with flour and brown on all y6 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK sides in the hot fat. Place meat in a deep pan on a trivet or skewers. Pour fat and onion around it and add water to about half cover. Put into a slow oven and cook 3 or 4 hr., turning meat occasionally and renewing water if needed. The pan should be covered tightly to keep in the steam. When the meat is almost tender add vegetables and seasonings. Serve with gravy poured around the meat. Vegetables may be omitted if preferred, and the meat may be cooked on top of the stove if kettle is tightly covered. Jellied meat. Additional ingredients : 1 tsp. poultry season- ing, 10 peppercorns, 10 whole cloves, 1 bay leaf. Use shin of beef, with considerable meat on it, and have bones cracked. Cook slowly until meat shreds easily. Pick out lean meat, shred, and mix with poultry seasoning to taste. Strain liquor, boil down to 1 pt., pour over meat, and cool. Hamburg steak. Use round of beef. Wipe meat with a damp cloth and cut in small pieces, removing fat and gristle. Put through a meat-chopper, add seasonings, and form into 8 round, slightly flattened cakes. Heat a frying-pan, grease with the meat fat, put in the cakes, and brown quickly on both sides. Draw back on the stove and cook slowly for 10 min. Keep the meat hot while making the gravy. Try out fat in the frying-pan. Add flour and stir until well browned ; then stir into it slowly the boiling water or stock. Let this boil up once, season with salt, pepper, and any meat sauce if desired, and strain over the meat on a hot platter. Roast cannelon. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. chopped pork or bacon, 1 egg. Use round of beef. Wipe meat with a damp cloth and trim. Put through meat-chopper, add the other ingre- dients, and mix well, moistening with a little water or stock if too dry. Shape into a roll and place in a buttered pan. Brush over with melted butter and put thin slices of salt pork on the meat. Bake 30 to 40 min. in a moderate oven. Serve with Brown sauce (p. 30) or Tomato sauce (p. 31). Egg may be omitted, but cannelon will then not slice so well. PROTEIDS yy Meat loaf I. Additional ingredients: 1 lb. salt pork, 4 Boston crackers, 4 tb. milk or stock, 1 tb. lemon juice or vinegar, 1 tb. tomato catsup or any meat sauce. Use any tough cut of beef or veal. Chop meat and salt pork fine. Add the crackers (rolled), the seasonings, and liquid, using more moisture if needed. Pack in a small bread-pan, brush over with beaten white of egg, and bake 2 hr., basting with salt- pork fat. Serve cold. Meat rolls. Additional ingredients : 2 c. bread crumbs, 1 tsp. poultry seasoning, 2 tb. butter. Use round steak. Wipe meat and pound until rather thin. Cut in strips about 2 in. wide and 6 in. long. Moisten crumbs with boiling water, mash, and add seasonings and butter. Spread the meat with this mixture, roll up the strips, and tie securely. Dredge with flour and brown in hot drippings. Put into a saucepan, cover with water or stock, and simmer gently until meat is tender (2 hr. or more). Remove strings and serve in the gravy, without straining. Rolled beef may be prepared in the same way from the whole slice of steak, but will require 4 or 5 hr. cooking. Veal birds. Prepare as for Meat rolls, using thin slices of veal. Allow most of the water to evaporate ; when meat is tender add 1 c. milk or cream, and when heated thicken with 2 tb. flour mixed with a little cold water. Use butter or salt pork for browning the meat before cooking. Liver and bacon. Additional ingredient : \ lb. bacon. The measured flour and water are for the gravy. Have liver sliced thinly and let stand in boiling water for 10 min. Drain and remove skin and membranes. Dry thoroughly, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dip in flour. Fry the bacon and keep warm while cooking the liver in the bacon fat. Turn occasion- ally to prevent burning. When cooked, pour off all but 2 tb. of the fat, add the flour to this, and stir till well browned. Add the hot water gradually, stirring till perfectly smooth ; put liver into the gravy and simmer for 10 min. Serve on a hot platter, with bacon around the edge. 78 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Cooked Meat Source. See Meat and Vegetables. Food Value. A source of protein. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Minced meat Meat- hash . Cottage pie . Meat pie . . Meat timbales Meat loaf III Meat souffle . 2 c. i c. i c. 2 c. i c. 2 C. 2 C. Pota- toes But- ter 2 tb. 4tb. i£tb. 2itb. 2tb. 4tb. 3 tb. 5 tb. 1 c. 2 C. I C. I C. Onions itsp. i tsp. i tsp. i tsp. i tsp. i tsp. i tsp. Salt i tsp. i tsp. i tsp. itb. i tsp i tsp itb. Pep- per itsp itsp itsp itsp itsp itsp itsp General Directions. Make sauce from the butter, flour, and stock called for, using water if you have no stock. For lamb, veal, or chicken, milk may be used in place of stock. Butter or drippings may be used. Scrape onion for seasoning. All made meat dishes should be carefully prepared, and should be free from bone and gristle and well seasoned. Minced meat. Chop the meat fine. If there is no left-over gravy, cook the meat trimmings to make stock for the brown sauce. Add meat to this, simmer very gently for i min., season, and pour it over half slices of toast, which may or may not be buttered. Tomato catsup, onion juice, or any bottled meat sauce may be used for seasoning, and if the meat is mutton, lamb, veal, or chicken, a little nutmeg may be added. Meat hash. Beef is most suitable for warming in this way. Mix meat and mashed potato, season to taste ; add 1 the butter (melted), and the onion juice. Melt the rest of butter or drip- pings in a frying-pan ; when brown add the hash, and cook slowly till well browned at the bottom. Turn on a platter, with crust uppermost. Hash cakes. Follow directions for Meat hash, making mix- ture into round cakes and browning on both sides in the hot fat. PROTEIDS 79 Cottage pie. Use chopped lamb, beef, or veal, and seasoned mashed potato. Add meat to sauce made of other ingredients, put in a buttered baking-dish, cover with the mashed potato, and bake till top is brown. Meat pie. Additional ingredient : A the rule for Baking- powder biscuits (p. 45). Prepare and cook potatoes and cut in cubes. Cut the meat in small pieces and add to the brown sauce with the potatoes. Season well, put in baking-dish or cups, cover with the dough, and bake 20 min. in a moderate oven. 1 c. cooked carrots may be added if desired. Meat timbales. Additional ingredients: 1 c. stale bread crumbs, i tb. chopped parsley. Use any desired meat (chopped fine). Use milk with chicken, veal, or mutton ; stock with beef. Melt butter, add bread and liquid, and cook 5 min., stirring constantly. Add meat, parsley, and egg (slightly beaten). Season with salt, pepper, and onion juice. Turn into buttered molds and set in a pan of hot water. Cover with buttered paper, to prevent browning on top, and bake 20 min. Serve with White sauce (p. 30), Brown sauce (p. 30), or Tomato sauce (p. 31). Meat loaf II. Make like Meat timbales, and bake f hr. in a deep pan. Meat loaf III. Additional ingredients : 1 tb. gelatin, i c. cold water, 1 tb. lemon juice. Heat stock, add gelatin (softened in the cold water), and when dissolved add the meat (chopped) and the other ingredients. Tomato may be substituted for the stock. Mold and serve cold. Meat souffle. Additional ingredients : 1 c. soft bread crumbs, 2 c. thick white sauce, 1 tsp. chopped parsley. Make and cool the sauce, then mix it with crumbs, seasoning, and chopped meat. Add the beaten yolks of eggs ; then fold in the stiffly beaten whites. Put into a well-buttered dish and bake 1 5 min. in a hot oven. Serve at once. Lamb, veal, and chicken are- most suitable for this dish, though beef may be used by substituting Brown sauce (p. 30) for the White sauce (p. 30). So THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK GELATIN Source. Obtained by cooking with water, from the bones and connective tissue of animals. Food Value. A proteid-sparer ; contains albumenoids. Cost. Gelatin, 12 c. to 15 c. per pkg. 4 tb. = 1 pkg. Gela- tin Sugar Salt Water Milk Fruit Juice Eggs Fla- voring Cream Price Coffee jelly . . . I tb. *c. Spk. f c. — — — — — Lemon jelly . . I tb. {c Spk. lie. — 3 tb. — — — Fruit jelly . . . i tb. ic. Spk. — — 2 C. — i tb. — Spanish cream 1 tb. ic. Spk. — 2 c. — 2 f tsp. — Snow pudding . Stsp. 1- c. — I c. — ic 3 — — Chocolate Bava- rian cream . . 2tb. f c. Spk. — 2 c. — — itsp. I c. Fruit Bavarian cream .... 2tb. f c. Spk. — I c. it — — I c. Charlotte russe 2tb. £ c. — — 2 C. — — 1 tsp. I c. General Directions. Gelatin should always be soaked in four times its bulk of cold water or milk and dissolved in the liquid required for the jelly, which should be scalded or boil- ing. Never cook gelatin, as jelly will not then harden. For the Bavarian creams the amount of gelatin may be decreased to 1^ tb. if cream is to stand several hours. Coffee jelly. Additional ingredient : 1 c. hot coffee. Soak gelatin in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, add other in- gredients, strain, turn into cold wet molds and chill. Serve with whipped cream, sweetened slightly. Lemon jelly. Make as for Coffee jelly. Serve plain or with cream or Soft custard (p. 66). Orange jelly. Use 1 c. water and | c. orange juice, with 1 tb. lemon juice added, and follow recipe for Lemon jelly. Fruit jelly. Method I. Use canned peaches, apricots, or any other fruit that is slightly acid, cutting it into small pieces. If there is not enough juice in the can, make up the amount PROTEIDS 8 1 with water. Use lemon juice for flavor. Make as for Coffee jelly (p. 80), adding fruit before putting jelly into mold. Method 2. Make Lemon jelly (p. 80) as a foundation. Add sliced bananas and oranges to the jelly. Spanish cream. Separate eggs. Scald milk and make a custard with it, using egg yolks, salt, and sugar. Remove from fire, add gelatin, and when dissolved, stir in the whites, beaten stiff. Flavor and pour into cold wet molds. Chocolate Spanish cream. Use recipe for Spanish cream, adding 2 tb. cocoa to the sugar when making the custard. Coffee Spanish cream. Substitute 1 c. hot coffee for 1 c. of milk and proceed as for Spanish cream. Caramel Spanish cream. Brown the sugar and dissolve in hot milk before making custard. Allow \ c. sugar extra and follow recipe for Spanish cream. Macaroon cream. Use recipe for Spanish cream. After gelatin has been dissolved in custard, flavor, and add \ c. pounded macaroons. Set bowl into a pan of ice water and stir until mixture begins to thicken ; add stiffly beaten whites of eggs, and mold. Cold cabinet pudding. Use recipe for Spanish cream, omit- ting whites of egg. Soak 6 lady fingers or strips of stale cake and 6 macaroons in the mixture. Place in layers in a cold wet mold, pouring custard over each layer. Mold should be placed in ice water, and each layer should be firm before another is added. Candied cherries and angelica may be used to decorate mold. Serve with whipped cream or a meringue of the whites of eggs. Snow pudding. Use whites of eggs only and lemon juice for the fruit juice. Add sugar and lemon juice to the dissolved gelatin, stir in ice water till the mixture thickens, then add the beaten whites of eggs, and continue beating till thick enough to hold its shape. Mold, chill, and serve with Soft enstard (p. 66) made from the egg yolks. Soft chocolate custard (p. 66) may be used as a sauce if preferred. 82 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Chocolate Bavarian cream. Additional ingredient : 2 tb. cocoa or 1 oz. chocolate. Mix cocoa and sugar, add to scalded milk, and cook 5 min. Chocolate should be melted and added to milk. Dissolve gelatin in the hot mixture, strain, and set in ice water. Flavor with vanilla. Stir until it begins to thicken and add cream (whipped stiff). Mold and chill. Coffee Bavarian cream. Use recipe for Chocolate Bavarian cream. Substitute coffee for hot milk and omit cocoa and vanilla. Do not cook sugar in milk. Fruit Bavarian cream. Additional ingredient : 1 c. fruit pulp (pineapple, peach, strawberries, bananas, or oranges may be used). Make as directed for Coffee Bavarian cream (above), adding the fruit when gelatin mixture begins to thicken. Ginger cream. Use recipe for Fmit Bavarian cream, allow- ing lie. milk, and using 1 c. preserved ginger (with its sirup) for the fruit. Add 1 egg (slightly beaten) when the fruit is added. Charlotte russe. Additional ingredient: lady fingers or thin slices of sponge cake to line the mold. Make like Chocolate Bavarian cream (above), omitting chocolate, and fill the lined mold. Flavor with 1 tsp. vanilla. Caramel charlotte. Add to recipe for Charlotte rnsse 4 tb. sugar (caramelized and dissolved in hot milk) and i c. chopped nuts. Continue as above. POULTRY Source. Flesh of domestic birds. Food Value. For protein. Cost. Variable. General Directions. Fresh poultry should be of firm texture and moderately fat, with a yellowish tinge to the skin. A bluish color shows cold-storage birds. A pliable breastbone, few scales on the legs, and small pinfeathers characterize young birds, while many scales and hairs on the skin denote age. Poultry should be picked and cleaned at the market, but the body cavity should be examined and cleaned again when ready PROTEIDS 83 to cook. Never wash poultry before placing in refrigerator ; it may cause it to spoil quickly. Singe the bird, remove pin- feathers with a sharp knife, cut off the neck, leaving the skin, and remove oil-bag in tail ; then wash thoroughly and proceed as directed. To truss a fowl, run a skeWer through each leg and wing, pinning it close to the body. Then tie a piece of twine to the end of one wing skewer, run it across back of fowl to the skewer diagonally opposite ; connect this with skewer in other leg, then back to the other wing. This will hold fowl in shape without marking the breast. Remove skewers and string before serving. Boiled fowl. Dress, clean, and truss a 4-pound fowl ; tie in a piece of cheesecloth, place on a trivet in a kettle, half surround with boiling water, cover, and cook slowly till tender, turning occasionally. Add salt last hour of cooking. A piece of salt pork boiled with the fowl gives a good flavor and may be sliced and served with it. Serve with Drawn-butter sauce (p. 29), or with White sauce (p. 30), or with chopped celery, sliced eggs, or cooked oysters added to either sauce. Roast chicken. Clean, singe, and wash a 4-pound chicken, removing pinfeathers if necessary. Dry well and stuff, using recipe for Stuffing (below). Sew up openings and skewer into shape. Sprinkle with salt. Try out chicken fat, measure 3 tb., and mix with 2 tb. flour. Spread breast and legs of chicken with this mixture. Roast i| hr., reducing heat of oven after 15 min. and basting chicken every 10 min. with chicken fat and hot water (2 tb. chicken fat to 1 c. water). Put more water in pan if chicken browns too fast, and use for basting if necessary. Stuffing. Ingredients : 2 c. soft bread crumbs Onion juice 4 tb. melted butter Salt 1 tb. poultry seasoning Paprika Hot water 84 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Mix ingredients in the order given, seasoning to taste and using enough hot water to make of the desired consistency. Giblet gravy. Ingredients : Chicken giblets 4 tb. flour 3 tb. fat 2 c. cold water Salt and pepper Cook cleaned giblets in the water till tender. Skim fat from liquid in roasting-pan and brown with the flour. Add liquid strained from giblets, boil 5 min., strain, season, and add giblets (chopped fine). (Giblets include heart, liver, and gizzard.) Chicken fricassee. Dress, clean, and cut up a fowl. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender, adding salt to the water when chicken is about half done. Remove from water, dry well, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and saute in butter or pork fat. Arrange chicken on pieces of toast, and pour around it 2 c. white sauce, or reduce stock to 2 c, strain, and remove fat ; melt 3 tb. butter, add 4 tb. flour, and gradually pour on the stock ; cook until smooth and season. Brown fricassee. Make like Chicken fricassee, but serve with a sauce made by browning butter and flour before adding stock. Chicken pie. Ingredients : 4-pound fowl 3 c. stock 1 rule Quick paste (p. 102) 8 tb. flour 1 slice onion 4 tb. chicken fat 1 bay leaf Bit of parsley Salt and pepper Cook fowl in boiling water to which a bit of parsley, the onions, and bay leaf have been added. When tender, remove and let stock boil down. Cool and skim. Reheat 3 c. Melt the chicken fat, mix with the flour, and pour on slowly the hot stock. Separate meat into small pieces, removing large bones. Place inverted cup in middle of baking-dish, surround with chicken, and pour sauce over it, seasoning well. Cover with paste ; make several incisions in crust and bake in a moderate PROTEIDS 85 oven till crust is well browned. Potato cubes and i c. small carrot cubes, both cooked till tender, may be added to the pie. Individual dishes may be used instead of one large dish. Roast turkey. Prepare as for roast chicken, using twice the amount of stuffing. Allow 1 5 min. to each pound for roasting. Serve with Giblct gravy (p. 84). Roast duck. Prepare as for Roast cJiicken (p. 83), stuffing with chopped celery. Allow 20 min. to each pound for roast- ing. A bread stuffing may be used if preferred. Serve with Brown sauce (p. 30) or Sauce piquant c (p. 30). Roast goose. Prepare as for Roast chicken (p. 83), stuffing with mashed potato highly seasoned with onion, butter, salt, and pepper. Allow 18 min. to each pound for roasting. Serve with Giblct gravy (p. 84). FISH Boiled, Broiled, Baked, and Fried Fish etc. Source. White-fleshed fish, as cod, haddock, pike, halibut, flounder, etc. ; oily-fleshed fish, as salmon, herring, mackerel, sardines, etc. Food Value. For protein and fat. Cost. Variable. General Directions. Fish is a useful food, on account of its food value as a substitute for meat and its low cost. It should be perfectly fresh, however, as serious illness is likely to result from the use of stale fish. When fresh the eyes should be bright, gills red, and flesh firm, and there should be no unpleasant odor. White-fleshed fish, being rather insipid, requires a well- seasoned sauce. Boiled fish. Salmon, halibut, swordfish, cod, or haddock may be used. Wipe fish thoroughly and, if whole, skin it if desired. Tie in a clean cloth or put into a wire basket. Plunge into boiling water, cook for 10 min. on front of stove, then 86 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK draw back and simmer gently till done. Drain thoroughly, remove cloth, and serve with Egg sauce (p. 30). For a thick piece of fish allow 1 2 to 15 min. per pound ; for a thin piece, 10 min. Broiled fish. Haddock, cod, bluefish, mackerel, etc., may be broiled whole ; swordfish, halibut, and salmon should be sliced. Wipe fish thoroughly, put into a well-greased broiler, and cook over hot coals till flakes separate, turning constantly, and cook- ing the flesh side longest. Remove from broiler carefully, and season with salt, pepper, and melted butter. To broil in a gas stove, put broiler in a dripping-pan, and cook at some dis- tance from the broiler flame, turning occasionally. Cooking may also be done in gas oven. Fish should then be placed on buttered tin sheet in a dripping-pan, seasoned and covered with buttered crumbs, and cooked 20 to 30 min. without turning. Broiled fish may be served with Tartar sauce (below). Tartar sauce. Ingredients : 1 tb. vinegar \ tsp. salt 1 tb. lemon juice \ tsp. paprika 4 tb. melted butter Spk. cayenne pepper \ tsp. any prepared meat sauce Brown the butter slightly and then add the other ingredients. Heat before pouring over fish. Baked fish. Cod, haddock, and bluefish are most commonly used. Clean and wipe the fish, and fill with Stuffing (p. 83). Sew up fish, lay on a well-buttered fish-sheet in dripping-pan, brush over with melted butter or lay thin slices of salt pork on the fish, and add 1 c. hot water. Bake 45 to 60 min., unless small fish are used, when 30 min. will be sufficient. Serve with a gravy made from fat in pan as for Roast meat (p. 70), using water for the liquid, or with Parsley sauce (p. 30). Baked fillet of fish. Use thin slices of halibut, or swordfish, or cod, or haddock, skinned and boned. Place a layer of Stuff- ing (p. 83) between two pieces of fish, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and buttered crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 45 min., PROTEIDS 87 using a fish-sheet as directed for Baked fish (p. 86). Remove from pan carefully and serve with White sauce (p. 30) or Parsley sauce (p. 30) or Tomato cream sauce (p. 31). Sauted fish. Use cod, haddock, or hake. Have fish cut into pieces for serving. Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and roll in corn meal. Use drippings or try out slices of salt pork. Have only a little fat in pan and cook fish rather slowly, turn- ing, that both sides may brown, and adding more fat if needed. If salt pork is used, garnish the platter with the crisp slices. Smelts, perch, and butterfish may be cooked in this way, but should be left whole. Fried fish. Ingredients : 2 lb. haddock or cod 1 egg Salt and pepper 2 tb. milk Bread crumbs or corn meal Cut fish in pieces suitable for serving, clean, and wipe dry ; season. Dip in crumbs, in egg and milk beaten together, and in crumbs again ; fry in hot fat. Water may be used in place of milk. Made Dishes Source. See Fish. Food Value. Chiefly as a source of protein. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Fish Potato Milk Butter Flour Onion Salt Pepfek Egg Prick Fish chowder . 2 lb. 2 C. 3C 2 tb. — 2 tb. 2 tsp. itsp. — Fish hash . . 2 c. 2 C. ire. 3 tb. — itsp. I tsp. itsp. — Fish timbales . 2 C. — 2 C. 2 tb. — itsp. itb. itsp. I Fish souffle . . 2 C. — — — — itsp. itb. itsp. 2 Fish chowder. Additional ingredients: 3 c. water; 2 tb. chopped salt pork. Separate the flesh from skin and bones, cover the latter with the cold water, and cook gently 20 min. Parboil potatoes and drain thoroughly. Cut pork in small pieces and try out in large saucepan with the onion ; add the 88 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK potatoes and strain over them the fish stock. Cook 10 min. ; add fish (cut in small pieces) and cook 10 min. longer. When potatoes are soft add seasonings, butter, and milk (scalded). If crackers are desired, allow 8 common crackers. Split, and add to chowder just before serving. Fish hash. Use any cold cooked fish that is not oily and mashed potato. Flake the fish and mix with the potato. Add seasonings, milk, and half the butter. Brown the hash in remainder of butter as for Meat hash (p. 78). Fish cakes. Make Fish hash into round flat cakes and brown. Fish timbales. Additional ingredient : 2 c. soft bread crumbs. Cook crumbs in milk, add the fish (flaked), the seasonings, and beaten egg. Fill small buttered molds | full, place in a pan of water on many thicknesses of paper, and bake about 30 min. Turn out and serve with Mock hollandaise sauce (p. 30), White saitce (p. 30), or Parsley sauce (p. 30). Fish souffle. Additional ingredients : 2 c. white sauce (thick), 1 c. soft bread crumbs. Add bread crumbs to sauce and cook 2 min. ; remove from fire, add fish, yolks of eggs, and parsley, then fold in white of eggs. Turn into a buttered pudding-dish and bake 35 min. in a slow oven. Serve with White sauce (p. 30) or Tomato sauce (p. 31). If salmon is the fish used, serve with a white sauce. Smoked and Salt Fish Source. See Fish. Food Value. For protein and fat. Cost. Variable. Fish Po- tato Water Milk Flour But- ter Salt Pa- prika Price Creamed salt fish . . 1 c. — — lie. 3 tb. i*tb. itsp. irtsp. Spanish codfish .... 1 c. 2 C. — — 2tb. 1 tb. itsp. itsp. Smoked salmon . . . ilb. — — I c. 2tb. 2tb. itsp. itsp. Baked finnan haddie . . 2* lb. — ilc. — 5 tb. 3 tb. itsp. itsp. Creamed finnan haddie . I c. 2 C. — 2 C. 4 tb. 2tb. itsp. itsp. PROTEIDS 89 General Directions. These fish have all been smoked or salted to preserve them and will be improved by soaking 1 hr. or more in warm water, unless the recipe requires that they should be cooked in water before using. Do not use steel knives or forks in preparing them except for cutting fish. Creamed salt fish. Fish should be shredded after soaking, or cut in very small cubes. Make a white sauce of remaining ingredients. Add the fish, reheat, and serve on toast or with- out. By using 2 c. milk and other ingredients in same propor- tion, 1 c. cold cooked potatoes, cut in cubes, may be combined with the fish. Spanish codfish. Additional ingredients : I A pimientos, 1 c. tomato, l c. buttered crumbs. Use cold cooked potatoes. Prepare fish as for Creamed salt fish (above), draining thor- oughly. Make a tomato sauce of necessary ingredients. Place fish and potato in layers in a baking-dish, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the pimientos cut in strips, pour over them the sauce, cover with crumbs, and bake until brown. Fish may be heated in the sauce and served without baking if preferred. Smoked salmon. Cover the fish with hot water and let stand where water will keep hot, but not boil, for 20 min. Drain well, brush the fish with 1 tb. of the butter (melted), and cook in oven 15 to 20 min., or till flakes separate. Remove to a hot platter and pour around it a white sauce made of the re- maining butter and other ingredients. Sauce may be omitted and fish seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. Baked finnan haddie. Wash fish, put flesh-side down in a dripping-pan, cover with warm water, and let stand for 1 5 min. where heat is moderate. Drain thoroughly and dry. Put back in the pan, add 1 c. each milk and water, and bake 20 min. or till flakes begin to separate. Serve on a platter surrounded by Drazvn-bnttcr sauce (p. 29) made from other ingredients. Creamed finnan haddie. Flake left-over finnan haddie and proceed as for Creamed salt fish (above), omitting the toast for serving. 9 o THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Epicurean finnan haddie. Make like Creamed finnan haddie with the addition of 2 pimientos (cut in strips) and a few drops of onion juice. SHELLFISH Source. General. Clams, oysters, scallops, mussels, crabs, shrimps, and lobsters are common examples. Food Value. Source of protein. Cost. Variable. Foun- Milk Pota- Pa- But- Flour Water Onion Price dation toes prika ter Clam chowder rpt. 3 C - 4 1 tb. irtsp. I tb. — iqt. 1 tb. Oyster stew . . ipt. iqt. — 2 tsp. I-tsp. 2tb. — ipt. — Panned oysters . ipt. — — 1 tsp. itsp. 2 tb. — — — Scalloped oysters 1 pt. ire. — 1 tsp. itsp. 4 tb. — — — Oyster pie . . . ipt. 1 c. 2 c. 2 tsp. irtsp. 2tb. 4tb. — irtsp. Oysters and maca- roni .... ipt. 1 c. — i tsp. i-tsp. 1 tb. 2tb. — — Deviled scallops ipt. 2 c. — i tsp. itsp. 2 tb. 4 tb. — i-tsp. Creamed lobster 1 c. 2 C. — i tsp. irtsp. 2tb. 4 tb. — — Fried oysters . . ipt. 6tb. — £tsp. Spk. — |c. — — Fried scallops II ipt. 2tb. — i-tsp. Spk. — — — — General Directions. Clams should be cleaned by pressing out the small black portion in the soft part of the clam, care- fully removing bits of shell, and washing as for oysters. Oysters must be picked over with the fingers to find pieces of shell ; they should then be washed by placing in a strainer and pouring A c. cold water over them. This liquid may be added to the oyster liquor if strained through cheesecloth to take out impurities ; both may then be used if needed, but should be heated and skimmed before using. Clean scallops like oysters, but do not reserve the liquor. Lobsters are better bought whole and opened at home. If lobster is fresh, the tail springs into place quickly when bent back. Remove claws and separate body from tail. Crack large claws and joints and take out meat. Cut the tail shell between the legs, remove meat, cut lengthwise, PROTEIDS 91 and take out vein that runs through tail. Hold body in left hand with head down and pull out from upper shell, leaving head and stomach (lady) in the shell. Pick out meat from small bones, being careful to avoid the gills, which are rough and feathery. The green portion lying around the stomach is the liver and may be used if desired. Clam chowder. Additional ingredient: 1 tb. chopped salt pork. Separate hard and soft part of clams ; chop the former and cook with the water for 20 min. Cook pork and the onion for 5 min. Parboil potatoes, which should be cut in small cubes, and add to the pork ; p®ur over this the chopped clams and water and cook 15 min. Add seasoning, the butter, and soft part of clams. Cook 10 min. and add the hot milk. Crackers may be added, and if preferred the crisp pork and onion need not be left in the chowder. Oyster stew. Scald milk and water. Prepare oysters care- fully. Wash them and strain the liquid through cheesecloth with the oyster liquor, put into a saucepan, heat, and skim ; add the oysters and cook gently till the edges begin to curl. Then add other ingredients and serve at once with oyster crackers. All milk may be used in place of the pint of water, and 1 qt. oysters may be used if desired. Panned oysters. Melt butter and add oysters, well cleaned, drained, and seasoned. Place oysters on squares of buttered toast, pour over each piece of toast a little of the prepared oyster liquor, and cook in hot oven till the edges of the oysters shrivel. Serve at once. Scalloped oysters. Additional ingredients : 1 c. bread crumbs or cracker crumbs, \ tsp. nutmeg. Prepare oysters. Mix crumbs and melted butter. Heat, skim, and strain oyster liquor and add to milk. Put layer of crumbs in bottom of baking-dish, then 1 the oysters and 1 the liquid, and season ; repeat, having crumbs on top. Bake 30 min. in moderate oven. Oyster pie. Additional ingredients : 1 tb. chopped parsley, 1 rule Shortcake (p. 45) dough, 1 c. oyster liquor. Add the 92 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK latter to the milk and make a white sauce with the butter and flour. Potatoes should be cooked and cut in cubes. Add these with the cleaned oysters to the sauce ; season and put into a buttered baking-dish. .Cover with the crust and bake 25 to 30 min. in a moderate oven. Oysters and macaroni. Additional ingredients : i-|c. cooked macaroni or spaghetti, A c. buttered crumbs. Clean oysters and add to a white sauce made from necessary ingredients. Add \ c. oyster liquor and the macaroni. Put into a buttered baking- dish, cover with the crumbs, and bake 25 to 30 min. in a moderate oven. Deviled scallops. Additional ingredients : 1- tsp. mustard, a few drops of tabasco sauce. Clean like oysters and cook for 5 min. over hot water. Drain, add to the sauce, and season. Serve on buttered toast or crisped crackers. May be covered with buttered crumbs and baked till crumbs are brown. Mustard may be omitted. Deviled lobster, Deviled crabs, Deviled shrimps, Deviled clams, or Deviled oysters may be prepared like Deviled scallops. Creamed lobster. Additional ingredient : 1 c. celery, cut fine. Make like Deviled scallops (above), but omit mustard. Any shellfish may be used, and the mixture may be scalloped if desired. Rice may be substituted for the celery. Fried oysters. Additional ingredient: 1 egg. Use bread flour. Pick over, wash, and dry the oysters. Make a batter of the other ingredients. Dip oysters in this batter and fry in deep fat. Drain and serve on a folded napkin ; garnish with lemon and parsley. Fried clams and Fried scallops I may be prepared like Fried oysters. Fried scallops II. Additional ingredients: 1 egg, 1 c. cracker crumbs. Prepare scallops, drain, and wipe dry. Season ; dip in crumbs, in egg and milk, and in crumbs again. Fry 2 min. in hot fat and drain on brown paper. This method may be used for Fried oysters and Fried clams. PROTEIDS NUTS AND LEGUMES — MEAT SUBSTITUTES 93 Source. Nuts : fruit of various trees, as walnut, chestnut, almond, pecan, etc. Legumes : seed of various plants, as pea- nut, beans, peas, lentils, etc. Food Value. Both nuts and legumes are sources of protein. Nuts and peanuts contain fat. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Foun- dation Water Salt Mo- lasses But- ter Eggs To- mato Onion Milk Price Baked beans 2 c. iqt. I tsp. 3 tb. Lima beans a la Creole . . . I c. — I tsp. — 2tb. — I c. itb. — Kidney beans and rice . . I C. — I tsp. — 2tb. — I c. itb. — Lentil rolls . . I c. — I tsp. — i tb. I — £tb. — Boston roast . . I c. — £tb. — 2 tb. I — i tsp. be. Nut loaf . . . I c. — Atb. — 2tb. I — — I c. Baked beans. Additional ingredients : | lb. salt pork, I tsp. mustard. California pea beans are commonly used, though kidney or yellow-eyed beans may be substituted. Pick over and wash beans and soak overnight. Drain off the water and parboil beans in freshly boiling water till soft enough to pierce with a pin. Drain and put in a beanpot, burying the salt pork in them. Mix the salt and mustard, then add the molasses and i c. boiling water, and pour over the beans. Add enough more boiling water to cover the beans and keep them covered with water till the last hour, then draw the pork to the surface and let it brown a little. Bake 6 or 8 hr. Lima beans a la Creole. Additional ingredients : \ green pepper (finely chopped), I red pepper (cut in strips), I tsp. grated horse-radish. Soak beans overnight and cook till tender, then drain. Cook onion and green pepper in butter for 2 or 3 min. Add the beans with other ingredients and simmer io min. Serve with strips of buttered toast. 94 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Kidney beans and rice. Additional ingredients;, \ c. rice, i lb. bacon. Soak beans several hours and boil till tender, allowing water almost to evaporate at the last. Boil the rice and drain well. Cook onion in butter for 2 or 3 min. Add beans, tomato (prepared as for Lima beans a la creole (p. 93)), seasonings, and bacon (fried crisp and cut in tiny cubes). Reheat mixture and serve around the rice, which should be molded in the center of a platter. Lentil rolls. Additional ingredients : 1 tsp. any bottled meat sauce, \ tsp. paprika. Soak and cook lentils, drain well, and rub through a strainer. Add the other ingredients, make into round flat cakes, and saute on both sides in hot drippings. Serve with fried apples. Or the mixture may be rolled in small cylindrical shapes, dipped in buttered crumbs, and browned in the oven. Serve with Sauce piqnante (p. 30). Boston roast. Additional ingredients: ^ c. grated cheese, 1 c. soft bread crumbs, \ c. chopped nuts, \ tsp. paprika. Use any cooked dried beans or peas for the foundation. Rub through a strainer and add other ingredients, using only enough of the milk to make the mixture soft enough to shape. Make into a roll, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake till brown in a rather hot oven. Serve with Tomato sance (p. 31). Nut loaf. Additional ingredients: 2 c. soft bread crumbs, i tb. chopped parsley, \ tsp. each sage and thyme, i tsp. pa- prika. Use walnuts or peanuts for foundation. Grate the bread crumbs, add to them the other ingredients, and bake 30 to 45 min. in a buttered bread-pan. Serve with Brown sauce (p. 30) or Tomato sauce (p. 31). VII FATS AND OILS Source. Vegetable : olives, peanuts, cottonseed, etc. Animal : meat and fish, butter, etc. Food Value. Chiefly as a source of fat. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. SALAD DRESSINGS Olive Oil Vine- gar Salt Pa- prika Cay- enne Pepper Egg Egg Yolk Mus- tard Price Plain mayonnaise . Three-minute may- onnaise Cooked mayonnaise French dressing . i c. i c. 3 tb. 2tb. i tb. i tb. £tsp. I tsp. i^tsp. £tsp. itsp. irtsp. itsp. itsp. Spk. Spk. Spk. Spk. itsp. |tsp. i tsp, itsp. General Directions. Materials should be chilled but not ice- cold. Vinegar or lemon juice may be used or a mixture of both, i tsp. powdered sugar may be added if desired. Plain mayonnaise. Mix the dry ingredients and add to egg yolk. Stir in a little of the vinegar, then a few drops of oil, and continue to add alternately till all materials have been used. Mix with a wooden or silver spoon or an egg-beater, but oil must be added slowly. Three-minute mayonnaise. Mix dry ingredients with the vinegar. Add egg, being careful not to break the yolk. Add ^ c. oil and beat with egg-beater i min. Add 1 c. oil and beat another minute. Add remaining oil and beat a third minute. Then if more vinegar is needed, a little may be beaten into the dressing. 95 9 6 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Cooked mayonnaise. Additional ingredient : 6 tb. flour. Chill the oil. Mix flour with 3 tb. of the oil. Heat vinegar and water, and when they boil, stir in the flour paste and cook till thick and smooth. Set aside to cool. Beat the egg, add seasonings, then beat in the flour mixture, a little at a time. Add remaining oil, | c. at a time, till all is used. If inclined to curdle, add a little vinegar alternately with the oil. French dressing. Mix in order given and stir till well blended. Sweet French dressing. For any fruit salad, add 1 tb. pow- dered sugar to the dry ingredients in the above recipe for French dressing and use lemon juice in place of vinegar. Beat well with an egg-beater. Salads Source. General. Food Value. A source of fats and mineral salts. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. Foun- dation* Let- tuce Cel- ery French Dress- ing May- on- naise Cream Dress- ing Butter Dress- ing Salt Pa- prika Price Vegetable salad . 2 C. I I C. — — — 1 rule itsp. itsp. Celery and apple salad .... 4 I I c. — — i rule — itsp. itsp. Bird's-nest salad . 2 c. — — i rule — — — itsp. itsp. Pineapple salad . 4 slices I — 1 rule — — — itsp. Spk. Egg-and-sardine salad .... 4 I — — — 1 rule — itsp. itsp. Fish salad . . . 2 c. I I c. 1 rule irule — — itsp. itsp. Lobster salad . . 2 lb. I — 1 rule Irule — — i tsp. itsp. Meat salad . . . 1-2 c. I I c. 1 rule 3- rule — — itsp. itsp. Tomato jelly salad 2 c. I — — irule — — 1 tsp. itsp. Tomato salad . 4 I — — irule — — i£tsp. itsp. General Directions. Prepare salads just before serving, as they wilt if allowed to stand long. Keep cold. Serve extra dressing with salad if desired. Any recipe for mayonnaise may be used, or a boiled dressing may be substituted. FATS AND OILS 97 Vegetable salad. Use potatoes as a foundation. Cut in cubes ; freshen the celery and cut in small strips. Mix pota- toes with Butter salad dressing (p. 69) while hot, chill, and add celery and the other seasonings. Serve on lettuce leaves. Peas, beets, or other vegetables may be substituted for celery. If salad is a little dry, add 1 or 2 tb. cream or top of milk. Cooked mayonnaise (p. 96) may be used if preferred. Celery and apple salad. Pare and core apples and cut into small cubes. Let stand in ice water to which a little lemon juice has been added. Prepare celery by chopping or cutting it, add apple drained thoroughly, mix with the salad dressing, and serve at once on lettuce or without. May be served in apples with inside scooped out. The pulp should be used in the salad. Bird's-nest salad. Additional ingredients: 1 small cream cheese, 1 tb. finely chopped nuts. Use cabbage as a founda- tion, preparing as directed (p. 16). Mash the cheese, season, and make into 12 egg-shaped balls. Roll them in the chopped nuts. Drain cabbage thoroughly and mix with French dress- ing. Place on individual plates in shape of nests and put 3 cheese balls in each. Lettuce may be used on the plates if desired. Pineapple salad. Additional ingredient : 8 maraschino cherries. Cut slices of canned pineapple so as to give a fan- shaped appearance to the outer edge. Arrange on lettuce leaves and season. Quarter the cherries and use for garnishing the slices of pineapple. Pour sweet French dressing over all. Egg-and-sardine salad. Additional ingredients : 8 sardines, 8 stuffed olives. Cook eggs hard, chop whites, and rub yolks through a strainer. Shred the coarse leaves of lettuce and mix with them the whites of the eggs and the sardines (freed from skin and bones and broken in small pieces). Add the salad dressing and seasonings. When thoroughly mixed arrange on lettuce leaves, cover with the sifted yolks, and garnish with olives (cut in slices to show the pepper). 98 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Fish salad. Use haddock, halibut, or salmon. Remove bones and skin, and flake the fish fine. Shred the coarser lettuce leaves, reserving the bleached ones for garnishing. Mix fish, shredded lettuce, and French dressing ; season and serve on lettuce leaves. Garnish with mayonnaise. Cooked dressing may be used for both oil dressings if preferred. Lobster salad. Remove lobster from shell ; clean and cut in small cubes and marinate with French dressing. Wash and dry the lettuce and shred the coarser leaves. Mix lettuce with the lobster and add a little of the mayonnaise and seasonings. Arrange in nests of the smaller lettuce leaves and put a spoonful of mayonnaise on each. More lettuce may be used. Shrimp salad. Remove shrimps from can and let stand in ice water for 20 min. Drain and remove vein and break in small pieces ; proceed as for Lobster salad. Meat salad. Veal may be used as a basis for this salad or cold lamb. If the latter is chosen, use \ cold ham to | lamb. The meat should be cut in small cubes entirely free from fat or gristle, and the celery (cut fine) mixed with it. Then pro- ceed as for Lobster salad (above), omitting the shredded lettuce if desired. Chicken salad. Make as for Meat salad, allowing equal parts of celery and chicken. Tomato jelly salad. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. gran, gelatin, 1 tsp. sugar, | tsp. scraped onion, \ c. cold water. Soak gelatin for 10 min. in ic. cold water, add to the hot tomato, stir till dissolved, season, and pour into small wet molds to harden. When firm, turn onto lettuce leaves and garnish with mayonnaise. Tomato salad. Scald tomatoes, peel, slice, and chill. Wash and dry the lettuce, removing wilted leaves, wrap in cheese- cloth, and keep on ice till ready to use. Arrange lettuce leaves on a platter or on plates for individual serving, place sliced tomatoes on them, season, and garnish with mayonnaise. FATS AND OILS 99 CROQUETTES, FISH BALLS, ETC. Source. General. Food Value. Contain all the food principles. Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. General Directions. Frying. Frying is cooking food in enough hot fat to cover. The fat used must be inexpensive, as so much is required ; it should also be free from mois- ture, as water causes fat to spatter badly when heated to the high temperature required. Fats suitable for frying are lard, lard substitutes, drippings, etc. ; butter is undesirable because it is expensive and likely to spatter and burn. If food to be fried has not been previously cooked, the fat used should be hot enough to brown a bit of bread while one is count- ing 60. If the food has been cooked, count 40 while bread is browning. Reheat fat before putting in more food. When fat has been used for frying, it may be clarified for subsequent use, by cutting some slices of raw potato into it, heating slowly, and proceeding as for drippings. Be careful not to pour the sediment from the fat into the pail. Drippings may be prepared at home from any pieces of sweet meat fat, preferably beef. Cut the fat in small pieces and put in a deep kettle with about 1 in. of cold water. Heat slowly, stirring constantly, and cook gently till bubbling ceases. Cool slightly and strain through cheesecloth into a tin pail. Basis Po- tato Milk But- ter Floi'r Egg Salt Pa- prika Price Fried potatoes .... — . 3 c — — — — itsp. itsp. Fish balls ....... 1 c. 2 C. — i tb. — I itsp. itsp. Potato croquettes . . . — 2 C. — 1 tb. — 1 yolk itsp. itsp. Rice croquettes .... 2 c. — — 1 tb. — 1 itsp. itsp. Sweet rice croquettes . . 2 C. — — itb. — 1 yolk itsp. — Meat-and-potato croquettes I C. 2 C. — 1 tb. — 1 1 tsp. Itsp. Fish croquettes .... 2 C. — I c. 2 tb. 4tb. — 1 tsp. f tsp. Meat croquettes .... 2 C. — I c. 2 tb. 4tb. — 1 tsp. 1 tsp. IOO THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Test fat as directed. Have a dripping-pan with brown paper in it near the stove. Fish balls and potatoes should be lifted from the fat with a skimmer and drained on the paper. Cro- quettes should be fried in a frying-basket and turned from that onto the paper. To shape croquettes take up I tb. of the mixture, roll into a ball, and then into a short cylinder. Dip in crumbs, in egg, and in crumbs again, before frying. The crumbs should be made from bread, dried in the oven, rolled fine, and then sifted. Dilute the egg with 2 tb. milk or water. Either white or yolk may be used, though less satisfactory than the whole egg. (This is in addition to any eggs called for in the list of ingredients.) A thorough coating of eggs and crumbs is required to hold croquettes in shape. Fried potatoes. Wash and pare medium-sized potatoes and cut in long strips about i in. thick. Let stand in cold water for i- hr. ; then drain, and dry thoroughly. Fry and drain according to directions for Frying (p. 99). Sprinkle with salt and paprika. Fish balls. Use salt fish and cut potatoes in cubes. Keep fish in cold water while shredding it. Prepare the potatoes, put them with the fish into boiling water, and cook till potatoes are soft but not watery. Drain thoroughly and beat till light. Add seasoning and egg (well beaten), beat well, and drop by the spoonful into hot fat. Potato croquettes. Additional ingredients: 1 tb. chopped parsley, \ tsp. scraped onion. Use hot riced potato, add other ingredients, shape, and fry according to General Directions. Rice croquettes. Additional ingredients : 1 tb. chopped pars- ley, 1 tb. tomato catsup, 1 tsp. any bottled meat sauce. Use cold boiled rice. Mix all together, shape, and fry according to General Directions. Sweet rice croquettes. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. sugar, spk. nutmeg, f c. rice (measured before cooking). Cook rice in water in a double boiler till very soft. Add butter, sugar, salt, and egg yolk, using a little milk to moisten if mixture seems very dry. Shape, dip in egg and crumbs, and proceed FATS AND OILS IOI as for Potato croquettes (p. ioo) ; or shape in balls, making a slight depression in center to be filled with jelly when served. Meat-and-potato croquettes. Additional ingredients : \ tsp. onion juice, i tsp. any bottled meat sauce. Make like potato croquettes, adding chopped meat of any kind. Fish croquettes. Additional ingredients : I tsp. lemon juice, spk. nutmeg, I bay leaf (scalded with milk). Use salmon, hali- but, haddock, or lobster. Mix with a white sauce made from milk, flour, and butter ; season and chill. Shape and fry like Potato eroqitettes (p. ioo). A little scraped onion may be added. All the sauce may not be needed, but mixture should be as soft as can be handled. Meat croquettes. Additional ingredients: spk. nutmeg, \ tsp. onion juice, I tsp. lemon juice. Use these for lamb, chicken, or veal croquettes. For beef croquettes substitute stock for milk and any bottled meat sauce for lemon juice. Prepare like Fish croquettes (above). PASTRY Source. General. Food Value. For fat and carbohydrates. Cost. See cost of individual items. Flour BAKING- l'OWDER Salt Butter Lard Eggs Water Price Quick paste . . 2 C. 4 tsp. i tsp. 3 tb. 3 tb - — *c. Chopped paste i£ c. — i tsp. 4 tb. 6tb. — *c. Plain paste . . . ii c. — i tsp. 4 tb. 8 tb. — ic. Egg paste . . . 4 c. — J tsp. 4 tb. — ii i c. Pates i| c. 4 tsp. 4 tb. 8 tb. — £c. General Directions. Butter, lard, and water should be ice-cold, except for Egg paste. Handle pastry as little as possible and avoid using too much flour in rolling. Lard substitutes may be used in place of the lard and butter, although the pastry is usually more satisfactory if directions are followed. 102 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Quick paste. Sift all dry ingredients into a chopping-bowl. Chop in the shortening, add enough cold water to make a stiff dough, roll to about | in. thick, and use at once. Suit- able for Meat pie (p. 79), Apple dumplings (p. 104), etc. Chopped paste. Mix salt and flour, put in chopping-tray, add lard and butter, and chop till well mixed. Moisten to a dough with cold water, toss on floured cloth, pat, and roll out. Fold to make three layers, turn halfway round, pat, and roll out in long, narrow strip. Roll up like a jelly roll and cut in halves, using one half for each crust. Use for pies and turnovers. Requires a hot oven. Plain paste. Wash butter, pat, and form in circular piece. Add salt to flour and work in lard with fingers or case knife. Moisten to a dough with cold water. Toss on floured board, pat, and roll out. Lay butter in center of lower half and fold dough over it, turning upper half over it. Then turn right side of pastry over, the left side under, the butter ; pat and roll out. Fold so as to make three layers, turn halfway round, pat, and roll out; repeat; then roll as for Chopped paste (above), making roll short and thick. Use for pies, turnovers, or tarts. Pastry may be used at once or folded in cheesecloth or waxed paper and placed in cold place, not on ice. Requires a rather hot oven. Egg paste. Put butter and boiling water in a saucepan over the fire ; when it boils add flour and salt, and stir until mixture leaves sides of pan, keeping it over the heat. Then turn mix- ture into a bowl, cool, and beat in the unbeaten yolk of 1 egg ; when smooth add 1 whole egg and continue beating until the paste is smooth. Chou cases. Cut six rounds of paste from Quick paste (above) with a large-sized cooky-cutter and pipe Egg paste around the edges of these, using a pastry bag. Bake in a moderate oven till brown. Use as cases for creamed fish or meat, prepared as directed for Scalloped meat (p. 36) or Scalloped fish (p. 36), omitting the crumbs. Trimmings left from pies may be used for the rounds of paste. FATS AND OILS 103 Pates. Roll and cut the paste with biscuit-cutter and doughnut-cutter, making three times as many rings as rounds. Moisten edge of each round and place three rings on it, mois- tening the lower one. Bake about 20 min. in a moderate oven. Fill with oysters, chicken, lobster, etc., reheated in white sauce, and well seasoned. ( Allow 2 c. sauce to 1^ c. meat or fish. Tarts. Make and shape as for Pates, using only two rings for each tart. Fill with jelly or jam. Pie and Tart Fillings Fruit Sugar Watek Milk Eggs Butter Salt Flour Paste Price Apple dumplings . 6 ic I rule Apple pie . . . . 6 I c. ic. — — — Spk. — i rule Apricot pie . 2 c. I c. — — — — Spk. — 1 rule Mock mince pie 2 c. I c. — — I 2 tb. — — 1 rule Custard pie . — ic. — 2 C. 3 1 tsp. Spk. — irule Squash pie — ic. — I C. 1 — Spk. — irule Lemon pie 3 lie. 2 C. — 3 — i-tsp. 8tb. irule Orange pie . 1 f c I C. — 3 3tb. Spk. 4 tb. irule Chocolate pie — — I C. — 2 2 tb. Spk. 4 tb. irule Butterscotch pie — I c. — lie. 2 2 tb. Spk. 6tb. £rule Florentine meringue — 4 tb. — — 4 — — — irule Banbury tarts 1 c. 1 c. — — 1 — — — irule General Directions. Apple pie, Apricot pie, and Mock mince pie will require upper and under crusts, the other pies only an under crust and rim. Either paste may be used, as preferred. Roll the two crusts separately about 1 in. thick, keeping the paste as nearly round as possible. Cut paste somewhat larger than the pie-plate and fit it in loosely to allow for shrinking. Put in the under crust, brush with white of egg (to prevent filling from soaking into it), and make an edge with strips of the paste, holding them in place by moistening the top of each layer with cold water. Fill the pie and put on the top crust ; press edges together lightly and cut slits in the crust to let steam escape. 2 to 3 c. fruit will generally be needed for 1 pie. 104 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK For a pie with under crust only, build up the edges with strips of paste to make it the required depth. Whenever possible, if the filling does not require a long cooking, bake the pastry- shell over an inverted pie-plate, pricking it many times with a fork to prevent the formation of air bubbles, then fill and finish cooking. Apple dumplings. Use rule for Quick paste (p. 102). Roll out the dough and cut in six equal pieces, as nearly square as possible. Wash, pare, and core the apples, put one in the center of each square, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, fold dough over them, pressing edges together, and bake in a buttered pan in a hot oven till crust is brown and fruit tender. Serve with a sweet pudding sauce. Apple pie. Prepare and slice the apples. Line plate as directed, put in the apples, add sugar, salt, and water, and finish according to General Directions. Bake about 40 min. in a hot oven, reducing the heat after pie begins to brown. A little grated lemon rind or \- tsp. cinnamon or nutmeg may be added if desired. Peach pie, Berry pie, or Cherry pie. Make according to recipe for Apple pie, reducing the amount of water if fruit is very juicy. Any of these may be baked in a deep pudding- dish, with only an upper crust. Apricot pie. Use stewed dried apricots, sweeten to taste, and proceed as for Apple pie (above). Dried peach pie or Dried prune pie. Make by recipe for Apricot pie. Flavor with lemon juice and lemon rind and remove stones from prunes. Mock mince pie. Additional ingredient : 1 lemon (juice and grated rind). Use raisins and rhubarb for the fruit. Chop them, and add the other ingredients. Mix well and bake with two crusts. Custard pie. Additional ingredients : i tsp. vanilla, a little nutmeg. Scald the milk ; beat eggs slightly, add sugar and salt, and pour on slowly the hot milk. Flavor and turn into a pie-plate lined with one crust according to General Directions. FATS AND OILS 105 Bake about 30 min. in a rather hot oven, reducing heat when custard begins to set. Squash pie. Additional ingredients : \ tsp. nutmeg or cin- namon, 1 1 c. cooked and sifted squash. Scald the milk; mix sugar, egg, salt, spice, and milk. Pour this on the squash. Strain. Line pie-plate, pour in the squash mixture, and bake till crust is brown and the filling firm. Lemon pie. Additional ingredient: 6 tb. powdered sugar. Use juice and grated rind of the lemons. Bake a pastry shell according to General Directions and fill with a mixture made as follows : Mix dry ingredients, add lemon and egg yolks, and stir in slowly the boiling water. Cook in a double boiler for 15 min., stirring till thick. Turn this into the shell and cover with a meringue made from the whites of eggs and powdered sugar. Bake 10 min. in a moderate oven. Orange pie. Additional ingredients : juice ^ lemon, 4 tb. powdered sugar. Use both rind and juice of orange. Make like Lemon pie (above), putting white of 1 egg into the filling and reserving the other 2 for a meringue. Chocolate pie. Additional ingredients : 2 tsp. vanilla, 3 oz. chocolate, 2 tb. powdered sugar. Mix sugar, flour, and salt ; add the beaten yolks of eggs, the butter, and the boiling water with chocolate melted in it. Cook till thick, stirring constantly. Flavor and pour into a pie-shell made according to General Directions. Cover with a meringue made from the whites of eggs and powdered sugar, and bake about 10 min. in a moderate oven. Butterscotch pie. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. powdered sugar, 1 tsp. lemon juice. Use brown sugar for the filling. Scald 1 c. milk ; mix flour and salt with rest of cold milk, pour on the hot milk, return to double boiler, and cook till smooth and thick, stirring constantly. Melt butter, add sugar, and cook till mixture bubbles. Stir into the cornstarch mixture, then add the 2 egg yolks. Pour into a pie-shell, cover with a meringue, and bake about 10 min. 106 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Florentine meringue. Additional ingredients : raspberry jam, chopped almonds. Use powdered sugar and whites of eggs only. Roll the paste into a sheet, cut in strips 2x4 in., and bake till light brown. Spread with jam, cover with a meringue, sprinkle with chopped almonds, and bake about 10 min. in a moderate oven. Trimmings left from pies may be used for these. Banbury tarts. Additional ingredients: rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 common cracker, rolled fine. Beat egg slightly and add other ingredients. Roll out the paste and cut with large round cooky-cutter. Place 2 tsp. of the filling on ^ the paste, cover with the other rounds, press edges together, and bake about 20 min. in a rather hot oven. Melba tarts. Make chou cases (p. 102) and fill with apricot jam. VIII FROZEN DESSERTS Source. General. Food Value. For carbohydrates, protein, and fat. Cost. See cost of individual items. Cream Sugar Fruit Juice Fruit Eggs Gela- tin Lem- ons Price Orange ice . . . Pineapple sherbet . Lemon milk sherbet Custard ice cream . Vanilla ice cream . Ginger mousse . 4 c. 4 c. 4 c. 3 c - 2 C. 2 C. lie. i^c. i c. I c. i tb. i tb. General Directions. The ice-cream freezer should be thor- oughly scalded before being used. Allow 3 parts of ice to 1 part of salt for freezing ice cream or sherbet ; equal parts of ice and salt for packing a mousse. The crank should be turned slowly. Always wipe cover before removing it, pushing down the ice and salt so that they cannot fall into the cream. Any crushed acid fruit or juice may be substituted for that required in Orange ice or Pineapple sherbet. Ice cream may be flavored with extracts or 3 tb. cocoa, 1 c. pounded macaroons, 4 tb. sugar (caramelized), or 1 c. sliced bananas, peaches, or crushed strawberries or preserved ginger may be added. Pre- served fruit and juice may also be used, in which case it should be substituted for part of the milk. These recipes are for thin cream. Heavy cream may be used for richer mixtures. Orange ice. Boil sugar and water 20 min. Add other in- gredients, strain, and freeze. 107 108 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Pineapple ice. Make like Orange ice, substituting 2 c. grated pineapple for the orange juice. Leave pineapple in the sirup. Lemon ice. Use recipe for Orange ice, substituting the juice of 4 more lemons for the orange juice. Pineapple sherbet. Make like Pineapple ice (above), soaking the gelatin in | c. cold water and dissolving it in the sirup. The fruit should not be strained from the sirup. Lemon milk sherbet. Mix juice and sugar and stir con- stantly while adding the cold milk ; strain and freeze. Custard ice cream. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. flour, \ tb. vanilla. Omit vanilla and use lemon juice if fruit is added to the ice cream. Mix flour and sugar, add 2 c. of the milk, and cook 15 min. in a double boiler, stirring often. Add the eggs (1 or 2 may be used), cook 3 min., strain, and cool. Add the other ingredients, folding in the whipped cream last. Freeze according to General Directions. Chocolate ice cream. Add 2 oz. melted chocolate to cooked mixture of Ctistard ice cream. Vanilla ice cream. Add 1 c. of the milk to the cream and whip until foamy. Add other ingredients and freeze. See General Directions for use of fruit or chocolate. Ginger mousse. Make as for Ginger cream (p. 82). When thick turn into a melon mold, cover tightly, sealing with a strip of cloth dipped in melted drippings, and pack in ice and salt from 1 to 3 hr. Other fruits may be used. Coffee mousse. Use recipe for Ginger mousse, omitting ginger and substituting 1 c. coffee for 1 c. of the milk. IX CANNING AND PRESERVING By careful preparation and sterilization, fruits and vegetables may be cooked in their season and kept for winter use by being sealed tightly in glass jars. Canning implies the use of little or no sugar. Sound fruit and vegetables, not overripe, should be selected. Wash and prepare according to kind, remove imperfections, and pack in sterilized jars. If vegetables are used, add I tb. salt for each pint jar, and fill to overflowing with cold water. Put on the covers, but do not use rubbers or fasten the clamp at first. Set jars on a rack in a large boiler of cold water, cover closely, bring to boiling point, and boil I hr. Remove jars from water and clamp on the cover. Repeat the cooking process for 2 days in succession, being careful to unclamp covers while cooking. At the third cooking the covers should be removed quickly, just before the jars are put back into the cold water, and rub- bers, dipped in boiling water, placed on them. This method is called intermittent sterilization, and food so prepared keeps well, as both spores and bacteria are destroyed. Tomatoes may be stewed, then canned as above, without water. If fruit is used, pack it into the jars after preparing and weighing it, and fill the jars with sirup instead of cold water. The amount of sirup to make may be determined by allowing ^ to | lb. sugar to each pound of fruit according to its sweetness, and 2 c. water for each pint jar. Sirup should be boiled from 5 to 10 min. before being added to the fruit. Two precautions should be observed in this method of can- ning — the jars should always be put on to heat in water of the same temperature as the contents of the jar, and they should not touch during the cooking process. 109 no THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK To sterilize jars wash, fill with cold water, place on a rack in a pan containing enough cold water almost to cover them, bring to boiling point, and boil 15 min. Do not empty till ready to fill with fruit. Covers also should be sterilized. Preserving requires more sugar than canning. The fruit should be washed and prepared as for canning, and a sirup made, allowing l to 1 lb. sugar for each pound of fruit and only enough water to dissolve the sugar. Cook the fruit in this sirup till tender and seal in sterilized jars as in canning. Hard pears, quinces, etc., are better if cooked in clear water till almost tender, as long cooking with sugar tends to harden the fruit. Use the water in which they were cooked for making the sirup. JELLY-MAKING General Directions. Wash fruit, cut in small pieces, and if hard fruits like apples and crab apples are used, almost cover with water ; grapes and currants should be washed, but will require no water. Cook till fruit is very soft, drain through a coarse sieve, then put in jelly bag and drain overnight. Allow equal amounts of juice and sugar. Boil juice 20 min. Heat sugar, add to juice, and boil 5 min. Skim and pour into sterilized glasses. Orange marmalade. Ingredients: 3 oranges 2 qt. water 1 lemon 4 qt. sugar Use all the fruit except the seeds. Cut fruit into small pieces, and rind into thin strips. Add the cold water and let stand 24 hr. Boil for 2 hr. uncovered, add sugar, and boil for 20 min. Put in sterilized glasses or jars. Amber marmalade. Ingredients : 1 lemon 1 orange 1 grapefruit Sugar Water CANNING AND PRESERVING in Wash fruit and cut up small. Measure and add three times as much water. Soak overnight ; then boil till tender. Let stand overnight again, measure, add three times as much sugar, and boil till thick and jellylike (about 2 hr.). Put into sterilized glasses or jars. PICKLING The preservative action of vinegar and spices is so effective that unless there is much moisture, pickles may be kept in covered crocks or jars. If liquid, they should, however, be sealed like preserves. Vegetables should be washed thoroughly and all decayed portions removed. Soy. Ingredients : 1 pk. ripe tomatoes (peeled and sliced) 8 onions (sliced thin) i c. salt Let stand 24 hr. Drain off liquid and add 2 qt. vinegar, 1 tb. mustard, 1 tb. ginger, 1 tb. cloves, 1 tb. allspice, | tb. cayenne pepper. Cook slowly from 2 to 3 hr. When nearly done add 2 lb. sugar and \ lb. mustard seed. Piccalilli. Ingredients : 2 qt. green tomatoes 1 qt. vinegar 1 qt. onions Salt 1 tb. each whole cloves, cinnamon, and allspice* Slice the tomatoes and onions, put in agate kettle in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt. Let stand overnight. In the morning drain, add spices and vinegar, and cook till vegetables are tender. Aristocratic pickle. Ingredients : 1 2 cucumbers f c. olive oil 4 onions \ c. white mustard seed 1 qt. vinegar 1 c. black mustard seed \ c. celery seed 1 c. salt Slice the cucumbers and onions thin, put in a bowl in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt, and let stand overnight. Drain ; 112 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK add mustard and celery seed and vinegar. Mix well and put into jars at once, pouring a generous tablespoonful of oil over the pickles. Pepper hash. Ingredients : 12 large green peppers 2 tb. salt 12 red peppers 2 c. granulated sugar 3 onions 1 qt. vinegar Chop first three ingredients fine, cover with boiling water, let stand 10 min., then bring to boiling point. Drain very dry, add other ingredients, and boil 20 min. Mustard pickle. Ingredients : 1 cauliflower 3 cucumbers 1 qt. string beans 1 pt. green tomatoes 1 root celery 2 peppers 1 pt. button onions 15 small cucumbers Wash and prepare vegetables, cutting or breaking into small pieces. Let stand 24 hr. Cook cauliflower, beans, onions, tomatoes, and peppers till tender ; then add celery and cucum- bers and cook 10 min. in the following sauce : \ c. flour \ c. brown sugar \ c. mustard 1 tb. salt \ tb. turmeric 5 c. vinegar Mix all the dry ingredients, add vinegar slowly, and stir till perfectly smooth. Cook, stirring constantly, till quite thick. Pour over pickles as directed, then bottle and seal. Cucumber pickles. Ingredients : 100 cucumbers 1 pt. salt 8 qt. water Vinegar 12 cloves 12 peppercorns Wash cucumbers. Cover with a brine made from the salt and water and let stand overnight. In morning drain and cover with boiling water. Let cucumbers stand in this till heated through. Drain, place in a crock with the spices tied in a bag, and cover with boiling vinegar. X FOOD FOR INVALIDS In preparing food for invalids or convalescents, the instruc- tions of a physician should be obtained and carefully followed. Diets may be classified as follows : i. Fluid diet 2. Light soft diet 3. Soft, or convalescent, diet 4. Special diets In general the first is suitable for patients with slight fever, the second for those who may have very easily digested solid food, the third for convalescents, the fourth for patients who must omit some one class of foodstuffs entirely. All should be daintily and attractively served, in small amounts. FLUID DIET This diet comprises such foods as milk, broths, beef juice, beef tea, tea, coffee, cocoa, lemonade, barley water, rice water, toast water, albumenized fruit juice, gruels, and milk soups. Many of the recipes may be found in their respective places ; recipes follow for those not previously given. Eggnog. Beat 1 egg; add | tb. sugar and beat well. Add I c. milk or cream and flavor with 1 tsp. vanilla, or 1 tb. brandy, or 1 tb. coffee extract. Strain into a glass and serve cold. Fruit eggnog. Make as above, using 2 tb. sugar, | c. water, and i c. chopped ice. Use 2 tb. fruit juice in place of milk and flavoring. Whey. Warm 1 c. milk. Add l c. wine or 2 tb. lemon juice. Let stand in a warm place until a firm curd is formed (about 30 min.). Then strain through double cheesecloth. "3 114 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Oyster broth or clam broth. Ingredients : | c. oysters or clams, | c. milk or water. Pick over and wash shellfish and chop fine. Put into a saucepan with the liquid and bring slowly to boiling point, but do not boil. Strain through cheesecloth and add salt to taste. Beef juice. Ingredient : i lb. round steak. Wipe with a damp cloth and cut in small pieces. Put in a dry pan and shake over the fire till hot but not cooked. Heat meat-press in boiling water, drain, put in the hot meat, and press out all the juice possible. Repeat heating of both meat and press to extract remainder of juice. Keep hot till ready to serve, but never boil. Season with salt. Double cheesecloth may be used if no press is available. If preferred, steak may be broiled 3 or 4 min., then gashed with a sharp knife and pressed. Beef tea. Ingredients : i lb. round steak, I pt. water. Cut meat in small pieces, discarding fat. Put meat, with the water, into a preserve jar with tight-fitting band and cover. Cover tightly and set jar on trivet in a saucepan of water at 140 F. Keep at that temperature for 2 hr. Pour off liquid, cool, remove fat, season with salt, and heat to 1 30 F. Serve in hot cup. Toast water. Ingredients : 2 slices toast (well browned and very dry), 1 c. boiling water. Break toast into small pieces in a bowl and add the boiling water. Let stand 1 hr., strain, season with salt, and add 1 or 2 tb. cream if desired. Serve cold or reheated. Barley water. Ingredients : 2 tb. barley, 1 qt. boiling water. Wash grain, add to boiling water, and boil 1 hr. ; strain, add 1 tsp. salt, and serve hot. May be flavored with a little lemon juice if patient is not suffering from intestinal disorders. Rice zvater. Substitute 3 tb. rice for the barley and boil i hr. Serve like Barley zvater. Jelly water. Ingredients : 2 tb. grape or currant jelly, | c. boiling water. Beat jelly with silver fork till smooth. Add water and sweeten to taste. Lemon juice may be added if jelly lacks flavor. FOOD FOR INVALIDS 115 Albumenized milk or albumenized fruit juice. Ingredients : white of 1 egg, | c. milk or juice of 1 lemon or orange. Put liquid and white of egg into glass jar with tight-fitting cover and band. Shake hard till well mixed, and strain into a glass for serving. When fruit juice is used, sweeten to taste. Oatmeal gruel. Method 1 . Ingredients : i c. whole oatmeal or \ c. rolled oats, 2 c. water, \ tsp. salt. Roll and pound oat- meal on board with rolling-pin. When floury put into a glass and fill with the water. Stir well and strain the milky liquid into a saucepan. Repeat till all the water has been used, then boil the oatmeal water for 30 min., stirring frequently. Season to taste with salt. Mctliod 2. i c. of oatmeal (or any other well-cooked cereal) may be rubbed through a strainer, then diluted with | c. hot milk or cream, and seasoned to taste. Rice-flour gruel. Ingredients : 1 tb. rice flour, \ tsp. salt, X c. boiling water, J c. milk. Scald milk. In top of double boiler mix the flour with enough cold water to form a paste. Add the boiling water. Boil 2 or 3 min. ; then set over lower part of double boiler and cook for 1 5 min., stirring frequently. Add the salt and scalded milk and serve in a hot cup or bowl. Barley flour, oat flour, farina, or cracker crumbs may be used in place of the rice flour. The cracker gruel is sufficiently cooked by boiling 2 or 3 min. For additional flavor or nourish- ment 6 raisins may be scalded with the milk, a few drops of lemon juice and a little sugar may be added at serving-time, or the whole or part of an egg may be beaten and added. LIGHT SOFT DIET This includes broths and soups with grains, cereals, eggs (poached and boiled), toasts, custards, jellies, junket, starchy puddings, ices, ice cream, and everything included in Fluid Diet (p. 113). Recipes for these will be found under their respective headings. Ii6 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK SOFT, OR CONVALESCENT, DIET In addition to the diets given on pages 1 1 3-1 1 5, a diet for con- valescents may be selected from the following foods : chicken, sweetbreads, squabs, white fish, bacon, eggs (except hard-cooked whites), potatoes (except fried), peas, asparagus, cauliflower, salads, fruits, desserts, occasionally chops or steak. Recipes for most of these dishes may be found by reference to the Index. Sweetbreads. Let stand 1 hr. in cold water, then drain. Add 1 tb. each of salt and vinegar to 1 qt. water, bring to the boiling point, add sweetbreads, and simmer 1 5 to 20 min. Drain and put into cold water. Cool quickly and remove membrane, fat, and veins. The meat may then be split and broiled for 10 min. ; or creamed and served on toast or in bread or potato cases ; or used as salad ; or rolled in beaten egg and bread crumbs and baked till brown, then served with White sauce (p. 30). Green peas are a suitable accompaniment for sweetbreads. Squab (and other small birds). For broiling, remove head and crop, singe, split down middle of back, remove internal organs, and cut off feet and tips of wings. Wipe thoroughly with damp cheesecloth, put into a slightly greased broiler, and cook over hot coals for 12 min., turning every 10 sec. Serve on hot toast, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. Garnish with currant jelly, peas, cress, or parsley. If gas stove is used, cook under the flame, turning only once when meat is half done. For roasting, remove head and crop, and then singe ; make small cut below end of breastbone and remove internal organs ; cut off feet ; wipe inside and out. Skewer into shape with toothpicks. Put into hot oven till surface is seared, then reduce heat and cook required time, basting frequently. Serve on toast, garnished as above. XI UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES Sweet Tomato Pickle i pk. tomatoes 5 lb. sugar 6 peppers 2 oz. allspice 6 onions 2 oz. cloves 3 pt. vinegar 4 oz. white mustard seed Slice the vegetables and let stand in a brine overnight. Drain ; add vinegar, sugar, and mustard seed, and spices in a bag. Cook till vegetables are soft, remove them, and cook sirup till thick. Return vegetables to sirup, reheat, and bottle. Grape Conserve 4 lb. fruit 2 oranges 1 lb. raisins 2 lemons 1 c. walnut meats 5 lb. sugar Slip the grapes after washing and cook pulp till soft enough to strain. Wash oranges and lemons, quarter, and slice thin. Chop walnut meats. Mix grape pulp and skins, add other ingredients, cook till thick, and seal in sterilized jars. Bran Muffins i£ c. bran flour 4 tb. sugar 1 c. bread flour \ tsp. salt 1 egg 4 tb. molasses 1 c. milk i- c. warm water 1 tsp. soda Mix and bake as directed in General Directions for Muffins (p. 43), dissolving the soda in the warm water. 117 n8 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK RlCELETS i c. cold boiled rice 4 tb. sugar 2 c. sifted flour 2 tsp. baking-powder 1 c. milk" |- tsp. salt 1 egg Mix and bake as in General Directions for Muffins (p. 43). Irish Flapjack 1 egg (well beaten) 2 c. flour \ c. sugar \ tsp. salt 1 c. milk 4 tsp. baking-powder \ c. currants or seedless raisins Mix in order given, beat well, pour into a hot, well-greased frying- pan, cook 3 min. over fire, then bake in oven 20 min. Turn out whole and serve in pie-shaped pieces. Poverty Cakes 2 c. white corn meal 2 eggs 2 c. boiling water \ c. milk 2 tb. butter \ tsp. salt Add boiling water carefully to the corn meal, using as much as the meal will absorb when mixed to a rather soft dough. Add butter and salt. When cool add milk and the eggs well beaten, and drop by spoonfuls into hot fat. Fry until brown and serve as breakfast cakes, with butter or sirup. Sweet Rye Bread with Raisins \ yeast cake \ c. shortening \ c. lukewarm water 1 tsp. salt 2 c. scalded milk 1 c. raisins \ c. molasses 3 c. rye flour 3 c. white flour Mix, knead, and let rise as for any bread, using white flour for the kneading. After second rising, bake in a rather moderate oven. Makes 2 loaves. UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 119 Parker-House Rolls II 1 pt. milk 3 yeast cakes 5 tb. sugar 1 c. lukewarm water 1 tsp. salt 6 to 8 c. flour 1 tb. butter Mix as usual and knead 20 min. ; then roll out ^ in. thick, cut, and shape. Place in buttered pan and let rise 5 hr. Bake in a hot oven 15 to 20 min. Squash Biscuits 1 c. sifted squash -|- tsp. salt 2 tb. shortening \ yeast cake 2 tb. sugar Flour Dissolve yeast in a little lukewarm water. Add sugar, salt, dissolved yeast, and melted shortening to the squash. Mix well and stir in enough flour to make a dough about as stiff as for raised bread. Knead lightly, let rise to double its bulk ; shape into biscuits, put into gem-pans, let rise again, and bake 25 to 30 min. in a moderate oven. German Coffee Cakes 1 c. scalded milk \ c. melted butter 1^ c. flour 1 c. milk (scalded and cooled) \ yeast cake 2 c. flour 2 eggs 1 tsp. salt 1 c. sugar Flour to make a soft dough Dissolve the yeast and make a sponge of the first three ingredients when milk has cooled sufficiently. Let this rise 1 hr. Beat the eggs well and add sugar, butter, milk, salt, and measured flour. Mix well and add the sponge, using enough more flour to form a very soft dough. Put to rise in half-filled pans, and when risen to top, bake in the same pans. Before baking moisten the top of the dough with the following ingredients mixed well together : 1 tb. melted butter, 1 tb. flour, 1 c. sugar, and 2 tsp. cinnamon. 120 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Cinnamon Buns i c. scalded milk f tsp. cinnamon ^ c. sugar 3 c. flour 2 tb. butter i egg £ tsp. salt \ c raisins -^ yeast cake in \ c. lukewarm water Mix cinnamon and sugar and add with the butter and salt to the scalded milk. When lukewarm add the yeast and the egg (well beaten). Cut the raisins in halves, stir into the flour, then mix with the first mixture. Let rise till double its bulk and then shape by drop-^ ping a spoonful at a time into flour and rolling quickly into shape. Place in a buttered baking-pan, let rise again, and bake 25 to 30 min. Corn Bread \ c. corn meal 2 tb. molasses 1^ c. rye meal J tsp. salt 2 c. scalded milk \ yeast cake Bread flour Scald corn meal in milk until thick. Cool and add other ingredients, dissolving the yeast as usual. Add enough bread flour to make a soft dough, knead, let rise, and bake as for white bread. Hard Sugar Gingerbread 1 c. butter 4 to 6 c. flour i£ c. sugar 3 eggs 3 tsp. baking-powder 1^ tb. ginger Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then the eggs (well beaten). Sift the ginger and baking-powder with 2 c. of the flour and stir into the first mixture. Then add enough more flour to make a rather stiff dough, and chill. Roll out thin on the baking-sheets ; bake 10 to 12 min. in a moderate oven, and while hot cut in strips about 2 x 5 in. Almond Biscuit 3 e gg yolks Whites of 3 eggs £ c. granulated sugar ^ c. sifted pastry flour Rind of \ lemon \ tsp. cream of tartar UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 121 Beat cream of tartar with white of eggs till dry. Mix like Angel cake (p. 50), put into small buttered tins, place \ a blanched almond on top or sprinkle with chopped almonds. Bake in a rather warm oven. Devil's-Food Cake I \ c. butter 1 c. milk 1 c. sugar 2 oz. chocolate 2 egg yolks 1 c. and 2 tb. flour 1 tsp. cooking-soda Add beaten yolks of eggs to creamed butter and sugar, then the milk, melted chocolate, and the flour and soda sifted together. Bake in two layer-cake tins and put together and frost with Boiled frost- ing (p. 57) or Confectioner's frosting (p. 57) made with the white of the eggs. Devil's-Food Cake II 1 c. grated chocolate \ c. milk 1 c. brown (or white) sugar 1 egg yolk 1 tsp. vanilla Cook first four ingredients in a double boiler till smooth, flavor, and set away to cool. \ c. butter 2 c. flour 1 c. brown (or white) sugar \ c. sweet milk 2 eggs 1 tsp. cooking-soda Mix as for any butter cake, adding whites and yolks of eggs sepa- rately. Stir into this the first mixture, then add the soda dissolved in 1 tb. warm water. Bake in layers or in a loaf. This makes a large loaf, which keeps indefinitely. Frost the loaf with Boiled frost- ing (p. 57). If baked in layers use the following filling: 1 c. brown sugar 1 c. water 1 c. white sugar 1 tb. vinegar Whites of 2 eggs Boil first four ingredients till sirup thickens in cold water, then stir in the whites of eggs. Let boil up again, heat till thick, and place between layers of cake, letting filling cool before putting second layer of cake on it. \ lb. marshmallows may be added to filling. 122 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Mahogany Cake 2 egg yolks ^ c. milk \ c. milk i^ c. flour 2 tb. cocoa or i \ oz. choc- i tsp. soda olate 2 tb. melted butter i c. sugar i tsp. vanilla Cook first three ingredients in a double boiler till thick, stirring constantly. Then add the other ingredients in order given. Bake in two layer-cake tins or in a loaf. Frost with Boiled frosting (p. 57), and use Boiled frosting for the filling also, in layer cake. Economy Cake 1 c. water \ tsp. nutmeg 1 c. brown sugar \ tsp. salt \ c. lard 1 tsp. cooking-soda 2 c. seeded raisins 2 tb. warm water 1 tsp. cinnamon 2 c. flour \ tsp. cloves ^ tsp. baking-powder Put first seven ingredients, in order, into a saucepan and boil 3 min. Cool and add remaining ingredients, dissolving soda in hot water. Mix well, turn into a buttered and floured cake-tin, and bake 1 hr. or more in a slow oven. Lady Baltimore Cake \ c. butter 2 c. sifted flour 1 c. granulated sugar 2 tsp. baking-powder 3 e SS yolks ^ tsp. salt i c. milk 1 tsp. rose-water \ c. water 1 tsp. almond extract Whites of 3 eggs Mix as usual, and after the whites of the eggs are added to the mixture, beat for 2 min., but do not stir. Turn into three buttered layer-cake pans and bake in a quick oven. Use the following mix- ture for filling and frosting: UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 123 Filling Double rule for Boiled frosting \ c. walnut meats (P- 57) 3 figs \ c. raisins 1 tsp. lemon juice \ tsp. grated lemon rind Chop figs fine, nuts and raisins coarse ; add to \ the frosting ; flavor, and use between the layers. Use remainder of frosting for top and sides of the cake. Roxbury Cake \ c. butter 1 tsp. cinnamon ^ c. sugar \ tsp. cloves 2 egg yolks ^ tsp. nutmeg - 1 c. molasses £ c. seeded raisins -^ c. sour milk 1 tsp. soda 1^ c. flour Whites of 2 eggs -^ c. walnut meats (broken) Mix in usual manner and bake in small tins (18). Frost if desired. Lemon Layer Cake \ c. butter ^ c. milk 1 c. sugar 1 J c. flour 2 eggs 2 tsp. baking-powder Mix and bake as usual for layer cake. Fill with Lemon-Butter Filling (below) and sift confectioner's sugar over the top. Lemon- Butter Filling 1 egg 1 c. sugar 1 lemon (juice and grated rind) 2 tb. butter Beat egg, add other ingredients, and cook over hot water till smooth, stirring constantly. Mocha Cake Make layer cake as for Lemon Layer Cake (above) and use Mocha Filling (p. 124) for filling and frosting. 124 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Mocha Filling 2 c. confectioner's sugar 3 tb. cocoa 4 tb. butter 4 tb. strong coffee Cream the butter ; mix sugar and cocoa and add alternately with the coffee. Use a bag and tube for frosting. Cry-babies 1 c. butter 1 c. sour milk 1 c. sugar 1 egg 1 c. molasses 2 tsp. soda 4 c. flour £ tsp. salt 1 c. raisins tsp. cinnamon ^ tsp. cloves Mix like any cake, drop from teaspoon on shallow tins, and bake 10 to 12 min. A mixture of raisins, currants, citron, and nuts may be substituted for raisins, or 1 c. of any one may be used. Boston Cookies \ c. butter \ tsp. soda \ c. lard or drippings 3 tb. hot water \\ c. brown sugar 2 eggs (beaten well) 2 c. flour 1 tsp. vanilla \ tsp. salt 1 c. chopped nuts or raisins Mix like cake, dissolving soda in hot water and adding to butter and sugar when creamed. Drop by the teaspoonful on buttered tins, allowing room for the cookies to spread. Bake 10 to 12 min. in a moderately hot oven. Soft Icing 3 tb. granulated sugar Confectioner's sugar 3 tb. boiling water \ tsp. vanilla Cook granulated sugar and boiling water, covered, for 3 min. Add enough confectioner's sugar to make a frosting that will hold its shape. Flavor with vanilla, or use 1 tsp. lemon or orange juice. UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 125 Sour-Milk Pie 1 c. thick sour milk \ tsp. salt 1 c. sugar \ tsp. nutmeg f- c. chopped raisins £ tsp. cinnamon 1 egg, beaten well ■£ tsp. cloves Mix in order given and bake between 2 crusts. (See General Directions for Pastry (p. 101).) Mock Cherry Pie \\ c. cranberries 2 tb. flour \ c. raisins \ c. cold water 1 c. sugar 1 tsp. vanilla Chop fruit ; add sugar and flour mixed, then the cold water and vanilla. Bake with 2 crusts. Lemon Sponge Pie 2 tb. butter 2 tb. flour 1 c. sugar 2 eggs 1 c. milk 1 lemon (juice and grated rind) Cream butter, sugar, and flour ; add lemon juice and rind, egg yolks (well beaten), milk, and the white of eggs (beaten stiff). Pour into a lined pie-plate and bake 30 min. Fish a la Creole 3 lb. fish \ tsp. bottled meat sauce 2 c. tomatoes 6 cloves 2 tb. onion 1 bay leaf 1 tsp. salt Bit of mace \ tsp. pepper 2 tb. flour 2 tb. butter Use haddock prepared for broiling, slices of halibut or swordfish, or fillets of flounder. Place prepared fish (skin down) in a well-greased dripping-pan, using a fish sheet or strips of cloth. Pour over it the following sauce and bake till the flakes begin to separate : Sauce. Heat the tomatoes, with all the seasonings except onion, and strain. Melt butter, add onion, and cook till yellow. Stir flour into butter and proceed as for Tomato sauce (p. 31). 126 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Deviled Fish with Rice i^ lb. haddock or halibut i tsp. onion juice i c. medium white sauce 2 tb. chopped parsley 1 tsp. bottled meat sauce 1 tsp. salt Few drops tabasco sauce \ tsp. paprika ^ c. buttered crumbs Cook and flake the fish ; mix with the white sauce and seasoning. Press into a well-buttered mold, cover with crumbs, and bake 25 to 30 min., setting mold in pan of hot water. Invert on a platter and garnish with Rice and tomato (p. 24) to which 2 chopped pimientos have been added. Baked Codfish Puff 1 c. shredded codfish 1 egg (beaten) 1 pt. mashed potato \ tsp. paprika \ c. thick white sauce Few drops onion juice 1 tsp. butter Let fish stand 15 min. in warm water. Drain, add other ingredients except butter. Place in buttered baking-dish, brush top with the butter (melted), and bake till brown. Fish and Oyster Pie 1 pt. oysters 2 c. drawn-butter sauce or 2 c. cold flaked fish white sauce 1 tsp. chopped parsley Salt \ rule Quick paste (p. 102) Paprika Use oyster liquor as part of the liquid for the sauce. Place fish and oysters in layers in a buttered baking-dish, season, pour over them the sauce, cover with crust, and bake about 25 min. in a moderate oven. Lobster Sauce \ c. lobster stock 2 tb. flour \ c. milk 2 tb. lobster meat 2 tb. butter 4 tsp. lemon juice 1 egg yolk 1 tsp. salt \ tsp. paprika UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 127 Make a sauce of the liquids, flour, and butter. Just before serving, add seasoning and egg yolk, cook 1 min., and add lobster meat. Beef a la Waldorf ii lb. beef 2 c. peas 1 onion ^ c. bread crumbs h c. tapioca 1 tsp. salt 4 c. tomatoes Spk. powdered cloves 1 c. cold water 2 c. potato cubes Soak tapioca for 1 hr. in water enough to cover. Cut beef in cubes, slice onion, and put all ingredients except potatoes in a casserole ; cover and bake slowly for 4 hr. Add potatoes and cook 1 hr. longer ; add more seasoning, if necessary, when cooked. May be cooked in a tireless cooker, in which case the cooking-time should be about doubled, and the potatoes should be added (cooked and hot) just before serving. Creole Beef and Macaroni 1 c. macaroni -J tsp. salt 2 c. tomato 2 peppers 1 onion (sliced thin) 1 lb. Hamburg steak 4 tb. drippings or butter Cook macaroni till tender, drain, rinse in cold water, and drain again. Cook the onion gently in the tomato, and when soft add it to the beef, which should be previously heated in a frying-pan. Then add the macaroni, the peppers (sliced), butter, and seasonings ; mix well and serve hot. 1 tsp. bottled meat sauce and \ c. grated cheese may be added, and cold roast beef may be used. Okra Stew 2 c. raw mutton 2 c. tomatoes 2 tb. fat 2 c. okra 4 tb. flour i£ tsp. salt 2 onions \ tsp. paprika Water Use neck or shoulder of mutton. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and cut into cubes. Wash and cut the okra in pieces, dredge it and the 128 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK meat with the flour, and fry in the fat till brown. (If canned okra is used, do not fry it.) Put all ingredients into fireless-cooker can, add water enough barely to cover, boil for 5 min., and place in the cooker for 4 or 5 hr. If preferred, this may be cooked gently on top of the stove for 2^ to 3 hr. Syrian Stew Make like Okra Stew (above), using string beans in place of okra. Tripe a la Poulette 1 c. thick white sauce 1 tsp. lemon juice 2 c. tripe 1 tb. chopped parsley 1 egg yolk \ tsp. salt Spk. cayenne pepper Wash fresh tripe, cut into strips, and parboil gently for 15 min. Drain well ; add to sauce, season, heat to boiling point ; then add egg and cook 1 min. Chicken Hollandaise 1 to 2 c. chicken 2 egg yolks 2 c. chicken stock \ tb. lemon juice 3 tb. butter Spk. nutmeg 4 tb. flour \ tsp. onion juice i£ tsp. salt yig- tsp. cayenne pepper 1 c. rice or macaroni Cook macaroni or rice till soft ; drain, rinse, and drain again. Make a sauce from butter, flour, and stock and add the chicken (cut fine) and the macaroni. Reheat, add eggs and seasoning, cook 1 min., and serve on toast or in small casseroles. Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin 2 c. milk ^ tsp. paprika •§- tb. onion y tsp. salt ■£ c. chopped celery f c. cracker crumbs 2 tb. butter 2 tb. melted butter 4 tb. flour 2 c. coined beef (in cubes) UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 129 Scald onions in milk ; remove, and make a white sauce with the milk, flour, and butter. Add celery and corned beef, turn into a but- tered baking-dish, cover with the crumbs mixed with melted butter, and bake till crumbs are brown. Scalloped Rice and Meat 1 c. chopped cooked meat 1^ c. brown sauce 2 c. boiled rice •J c. mushrooms Buttered crumbs 1 tsp. salt £ tsp. paprika Add mushrooms to brown sauce, which should be seasoned with onion juice and any bottled meat sauce. Put rice and meat in layers in a buttered baking-dish, season, pour over them the sauce, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake till crumbs are brown. English Monkey with Tomato \ to 1 c. soft bread crumbs \ c. chopped cheese \ c. tomato 1 egg ^ c. milk -J tsp. salt £ tsp. cooking-soda Spk. cayenne pepper £ tb. butter Cook crumbs and cheese in milk till cheese is melted. Add all other ingredients except egg and stir till well blended. Then add the egg (well beaten), cook 1 min., and serve on crackers. Mexican Rabbit 2 tb. butter. 1 c. cheese (cut thin) 1 green pepper f- c. canned corn 1 tsp. salt - 1 c. tomato \ tsp. paprika 2 eggs Remove seeds from pepper, scald it, chop fine, and cook in the butter till tender. Stir in the cheese, and when melted add the other ingredients, egg last. Stir constantly, and when smooth and thick serve on bread toasted on one side. 130 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Cheese Salad i c. cream ^ c. grated dry cheese 8 stuffed olives (cut small) J tsp. salt i pimiento (cut in strips) \ tsp. pepper £ tb. gelatin ^ c. cold water Soak the gelatin in the cold water and dissolve by setting it over boiling water. Add all other ingredients except the cream, put bowl into ice water, and stir mixture until it begins to thicken. Then fold in the cream (beaten stiff). Put this into six small molds to harden. Turn out and serve on lettuce leaves with French dressing (p. 96) or Mayonnaise dressing (p. 95). Cheese-and-Pimiento Pudding 2 thick slices bread 2 c. milk 2 tb. butter 2 eggs 2 pimientos (cut small) 1 tsp. salt § c. chopped cheese \ tsp. paprika \ tsp. mustard Spread butter on bread and cut the slices in small cubes. Add the cheese and pimientos and the seasonings mixed together. Put into a buttered baking-dish, pour over them the eggs (well beaten and mixed with the milk), and bake in a moderate oven till egg is set. Serve at once, for luncheon or supper, with a green salad. Potato Omelet 3 c. mashed potato \ tb. chopped parsley 1 tb. chopped onion 4 eggs 2 tb. butter 1 tsp. salt \ tsp. paprika \ c. hot milk Brown the onion in butter. Beat eggs light and fold them into the potato, to which milk has been added. Add seasonings and cook the mixture in the browned butter as for an omelet. Serve with White sauce (p. 30). UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 131 Rice Omelet 1 c. hot boiled rice ^ tsp. paprika 2 eggs 1 tb. water •J tsp. salt 1 tb. butter Separate eggs, beat whites stiff and yolks till light-colored and thick. Add rice, seasonings, and water to yolk of eggs, then fold in the white. Cook in the butter over the fire till brown, then finish in the oven. Fold and serve with Cheese sauce (p. 30). Hungarian Potatoes 1 qt. cooked potatoes 1 c. tomato 3 tb. butter 1 c. stock 1 tb. chopped onion 1 tsp. salt 2 tb. parsley £ tsp. paprika Brown onion slightly in the butter. Add this to potatoes and other ingredients except parsley, in a buttered baking-dish, using enough stock to about half cover the mixture. Cover dish, place in the oven, and bake till stock is nearly absorbed. Sprinkle with the parsley before serving. Tomato Tim bales 2 eggs and 1 yolk % c. soft bread crumbs ^ tsp. salt 2 tb. melted butter £ tsp. pepper 1 c. tomato puree Prepare tomato puree by boiling down 2 c. canned tomato till it is reduced to 1 c. and then rubbing through a strainer. Beat eggs well and add other ingredients in order given. Turn into buttered timbale- molds or small cups. Set on many folds of paper in a pan of water and bake till mixture is firm. Test with a knife as for custard. Oven should not be hot enough to cause water to boil. Let stand 5 min. before removing from the mold. Serve with White sauce (p. 30). 132 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Savory Tomato 4 c. canned tomatoes 4 tb. chopped green or I to 1 c. chopped meat red peppers £ tsp. mustard 1 c. cracker crumbs 1 tsp. salt 4 tb. butter (melted) Mix cracker crumbs with butter. Add other ingredients to the tomatoes and proceed as for Scalloped tomato (p. 36). Walnuts or peanuts may be substituted for meat. Serve for luncheon or supper. Neapolitan Spaghetti 2 c. spaghetti 2 tb. grated cheese 1 c. tomatoes 1 tb. butter \ c. bacon (cut fine) 1 tsp. salt 1 tb. chopped onion \ tsp. pepper \ tsp. paprika Cook spaghetti in boiling salted water till tender. Drain and blanch with cold water. Cook onion and bacon till onion is yellow, add the other ingredients with \ c. hot water. Put spaghetti in a buttered baking-dish, pour over it the bacon etc., and bake 15 min. in a very moderate oven. Sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving. Swedish Timbale Cases \ c. flour 2 egg yolks \ tsp. salt \ c. milk Beat the eggs and add the milk. Pour gradually into the sifted flour and stir and beat till perfectly smooth. Add the salt. Shape on a timbale iron and fry in hot fat. Heat the iron in the fat before using. If batter fails to adhere, the iron is too cold; if it cooks as soon as the iron is dipped into the batter, the iron is too hot. Fill with creamed meat or fish as a hot dish, or with fresh fruit, sugared, for dessert. Potato and Cheese Fritters 2 c. hot riced potato Spk. cayenne pepper \ c. grated cheese White of 1 egg 1 tsp. salt 2 egg yolks Spk. nutmeg 1 tb. flour UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 133 Add flour, seasonings, and grated cheese to the potato. Mix well and add the eggs (well beaten). Drop by the spoonful into hot fat, fry a delicate brown, and drain on brown paper. Perfection Salad 1 tb. gran, gelatin f tsp. salt 1 c. cold water 1 tb. sugar 1 c. boiling water -f c. chopped celery Juice of - 1 lemon £ c. shredded cabbage £ c. vinegar % can chopped pimientos Soak gelatin in cold water. Add vinegar, lemon juice, boiling water, sugar, and salt. Strain ; when mixture begins to set, add remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Pour into molds and chill. Serve on nests of lettuce leaves. Garnish with Mayonnaise dressing (p. 95). Frozen Fruit Salad 1 tb. butter \ tsp. paprika 2 egg yolks (.well beaten) Spk. cayenne pepper 3 tb. sugar § c. milk 3^ tb. flour \ c. vinegar 1 tsp. salt 1 c. prepared fruit Use for the fruit any desired proportion of oranges, cherries, ba- nanas, and pineapple. Be sure to remove all skin and seeds. Melt butter in top of double boiler. Mix the sugar, flour, and seasonings, add the egg yolks, turn into the double boiler, and add both milk and vinegar cold. Set over hot water and stir until mixture thickens. Remove from fire, beat 3 min., and chill. Add the fruit, put in molds (baking-powder boxes are good), and fasten a strip of cloth dipped in oil or melted fat around the seam to keep out moisture. Pack in ice and salt (2 parts ice to 1 part salt). Let stand 2 hr. Cut in slices and serve on lettuce leaves with Sweet French dressing (p. 96). If preferred, 1 tb. gelatin may be soaked in 2 tb. cold water and dis- solved in the hot dressing. Then add the fruit and chill in small molds without packing. Turn out and serve as above. 134 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Apple Roll 2 c. flour §- c. milk 4 tsp. baking-powder i c. chopped apple ^ tsp. salt 4 tb. sugar 2 tb. butter \ tsp. cinnamon Mix and sift the dry ingredients, adding half the sugar. Chop in the butter with a knife and add enough milk to make a rather soft dough. Roll out about £ in. thick. Mix the remainder of the sugar and the cinnamon with the apples and spread over the dough, which should first be brushed over with melted butter. Roll up like a jelly roll and cut in slices f in. thick. Lay flat in a buttered pan and bake 20 min. in a fairly hot oven. Serve with any hot pudding sauce. Fruit Canapes 6 slices Egg toast (p. 35) 1 tb. cornstarch 6 half peaches Juice of 1 lemon 1 c. water ^ c. sugar Use fresh fruit or canned ; if the latter is used, substitute fruit juice for the water. Cook fruit with water and sugar till tender but not broken. Remove from the sirup and place fruit on the toast (cut in circular pieces). Thicken the sirup with the cornstarch mixed with \ c. cold water and pour over the canape's. Apricots or slices of pineapple may be used in place of the peaches. Marshmallow Cream * ^ tb. gelatin 1 c. cream 3 tb. cold milk White of 1 egg (beaten stiff) |- c. sugar -J lb. marshmallows ■5- tsp. vanilla 2 bananas 1 tb. lemon juice \ c. candied cherries £ c. chopped nuts Soak the gelatin in the cold milk and dissolve by setting over boil- ing water. Add sugar and cream and beat with an egg-beater till firm throughout. The process may be hastened by setting the bowl into ice water. Cut the marshmallows into quarters, chop the cherries UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 135 and nuts, cut bananas into small cubes and mix with the lemon juice. Fold the fruit and white of egg into the cream mixture. Chill and serve in glass cups garnished with cherries. Fig Charlotte 1 tb. gelatin 1 c. cream ^ c. cold milk 12 figs f c. hot milk 1 c. water 1 c. sugar 2 tb. lemon juice 2 tb. sugar Cook figs in water and lemon juice till tender, adding 2 tb. sugar. Line glass cups with half the figs (cut in strips) and fill with cream prepared as follows : Soak gelatin in the cold milk and then dissolve in the hot milk. Add remainder of figs (cut small), and the sirup and sugar. Chill in ice water. When mixture begins to thicken, fold in the cream (beaten stiff). Lemon Cream Pudding 4 eggs 1 lemon (juice and grated 4 tb. sugar rind) 2 tb. hot water 2 tb. powdered sugar Beat yolks of eggs with granulated sugar. Add lemon juice, lemon rind, and water. Cook until it thickens, using double boiler. Remove from fire and sur in white of eggs (beaten stiff) with the sugar. Chill thoroughly before serving. Swedish Pudding 4 tb. rice £ pt. cream 3 c. milk 1 tsp. vanilla •J tsp. salt 2 tb. granulated gelatin \ c. boiling water Cook rice in 2 c. milk till very soft. Add salt. Take from fire and add 1 c. cold milk. When cold add whipped cream, flavoring, and gelatin (previously soaked according to General Directions (p. 80) and dissolved in \ c. boiling water). Chill and serve with chocolate sauce, crushed fruit, or maple sirup with chopped nuts. 136 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Imperial Rice Cream 2 tb. gelatin 2 c. milk £ c. cold water 1 c. cream 1 c. cooked rice y c. chopped walnuts 1 c. sugar 1 tsp. vanilla Make like Chocolate Bavaria?i cream (p. 82), and when the milk and gelatin begin to thicken, stir in the rice and walnuts. Flavor and fold in the cream (beaten stiff). Chill and serve. 2 oz. melted chocolate may be added to the gelatin mixture if desired. Plain Mousse Any Bavarian cream mixture (see p. 82) may be packed in ice and salt (2 parts ice to 1 part salt) for from 4 to 6 hr. and served as a frozen dessert. A richer mixture may be made by omitting half the milk and half the gelatin. Rich Mousse 1 pt. cream 1 c. sugar 1 c. fruit pulp Spk. salt Beat the cream stiff, fold in other ingredients, and chill as above. Use any desired fruit. Coffee mousse. Omit fruit and flavor with 2 tb. coffee extract. Maple mousse. Omit fruit, add \ c. maple sirup, and use only \ c. sugar. 1 c. chopped nuts may be added. XII SELECTION OF FOOD HOW TO PLAN MEALS In the choice of food for an individual or a group of people, there is great need of an understanding of the properties of food and the work which it must do in the body. The classi- fication of food has been given elsewhere ; its selection and combinations only will be considered here. It is frequently said that appetite is the best guide in the choice of food for the individual. That is probably true of a normal appetite, but most appetites have become so perverted by misuse that it is not safe to trust entirely to them. Two points, then, must be borne in mind in planning the daily dietary : first, that food must be of good quality, well prepared, attractively served, and wisely combined, in order to please the eye and palate and so stimulate digestion ; second, that it must meet the needs of those for whom it is prepared, both as to quantity and composition. To fulfill the first two requirements is easy. Buy the best that can be obtained (not always the most expensive, but that which is seasonable and of high grade), then prepare according to methods which have proved satisfactory. Food out of season is always an extravagance and is often of inferior quality. Attractive serving depends on the fact that the eye governs the taste and that food which is unattractive in appearance is distasteful and therefore indigestible. Avoid overdecoration, though a slight garnishing adds greatly to the aesthetic value of many dishes. Slices of lemon, pimientos, stuffed olives, hard-cooked eggs, shredded lettuce, watercress, parsley, or 137 138 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK any greens suggested by one's ingenuity may be used to gar- nish savory dishes, while whipped cream (delicately colored), candied cherries, angelica, chopped nuts, etc., are suitable for cakes and desserts. Be careful that greens which may wilt are not used on hot dishes, and remember that whipped cream liquefies on hot desserts. To obtain variety serve only a few kinds of food at a meal, but vary the selection for each meal. Once a day is enough to use meat in most families ; in its place fish and the various meat substitutes may be included in the luncheon menu, while eggs, salt fish, baked beans, or a hearty cereal (such as whole oatmeal or cracked wheat, served with plenty of milk) may re- place it for breakfast. If a starchy vegetable is desired for two meals, use potatoes for one and rice, macaroni in its various forms, hominy, or sweet potatoes for the other. Where a sec- ond vegetable is desired, choose a succulent one, such as greens, asparagus, onions, turnips, or carrots for a hot dish and cucum- bers, lettuce, tomatoes, celery, or cabbage for a cold dish. Avoid vegetables similar in flavor or texture ; even the color should be different, except at a formal meal, which may carry out a color scheme. When meat is served with gravy, a second sauce should not accompany the vegetables, nor should two creamed dishes be used at the same meal. Bread in some form, butter, and a beverage are permissible at all meals, but while coffee and tea have no food value except for the milk and sugar added, cocoa is distinctly nourishing and should only be used to increase the nutritive value of a meal. When the first course is soup, no beverage should be served except a small cup of after-dinner coffee, as too large an amount of liquid weakens the power of the gastric juice to digest the solid foods. It is probably true that it is impossible, under normal con- ditions, to serve too many fresh fruits and vegetables if care is taken to select them wisely and to have the diet otherwise balanced. Our common habit of beginning a meal with fruit SELECTION OF FOOD 139 stimulates the digestive system and puts it into condition to receive the foods more difficult of digestion. The same is true of the use of hot soup. On the other hand, we place sweets at the end of a meal in order that they may leave a pleasant sen- sation and excite the flow of the gastric juice ; they should not, however, be used for this purpose at the beginning of a meal, since they are so satisfying as to lessen the desire for more nourishing food. And while an excessive use of relishes and condiments is not to be recommended, they, also, undoubtedly serve much the same purpose, since highly seasoned food increases the secretion of the digestive juices. Thus many of our common practices have a physiological basis which we cannot afford to ignore in the choice of our food. Yet it is also true that many of our eating habits are bad. Sugar on rice used as a vegetable, butter for seasoning fat meats, oil dressings or rich sauces on meat or fish, sirup on griddlecakes, ice cream as a sauce for pies, whipped cream on chocolate, bonbons during a meal — all may be relished by the epicure, but should be indulged in only by those whose diges- tions are excellent. And any combination is difficult to digest if, as in fried food or pastry, starchy materials are coated with fat. These should not necessarily be wholly excluded from the diet, but should be served infrequently and eaten in moderation. For the second point to be considered in the choice of food, namely, that it should meet the needs of the individual as to quantity and composition, some standard for estimating those needs is essential. It is not enough that food should build and repair the tissues and framework of the body, it must also fur- nish heat to maintain the body temperature and supply energy for its work ; that is, it must have a caloric 1 value. And while the building and repairing of the tissues and framework of the body can be done only by protein and mineral salts respectively, 1 A calorie is the unit by which heat is measured. It is commonly reckoned as the amount of heat required to raise one kilogram of water one degree centigrade. 140 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK all foods except mineral salts may yield heat. Protein and carbo- hydrates supply 4 calories per gram, while fats and oils furnish 9 calories per gram. Protein should not be depended on too largely as a source of energy, not only because it is generally an expensive source of heat, but because the body can care for only a moderate amount of it. From one eighth to one tenth of the amount of heat required by the body may generally be furnished by the protein in the diet without harm. Scientists have demonstrated that an average daily need is for food that will supply 2400 to 3500 calories, the smaller amount being required by a woman at light muscular work, the larger by a man at moderately active muscular work. Age and sex modify the requirement, which is reduced by a sedentary occupation and increased by vigorous out-of-door life. Children under sixteen require from three tenths to eight tenths of the larger number of calories. Dr. Langworthy says in the Scientific Monthly for March, 1916 : A consideration of the results of American experiments and other data has led us to conclude that, with our ordinary food habits, involving, as they do, the use of a considerable variety of foods in reasonably liberal quantities, one is justified for many purposes in discussing dietetics on a basis of energy only, since a diet which supplies 3000 to 3500 calories of energy per man per day, as ours very commonly does, almost inevitably supplies the needed protein, ash, and other constituents also. Particularly is this the case when one takes pains to include in the diet a reasonable amount of milk, green vegetables, and fruit. 1 The daily menus given at the end of this section are based on the needs of a man requiring 3500 calories per day, giving due consideration to the inclusion in those menus of a proper amount of each foodstuff, namely, protein, fat, starch, sugar, and ash (mineral salts). To supply the latter the housekeeper 1 The reader is referred to a reprint of this article issued by the Journal of Home Economics, Baltimore, Md., for further valuable information; also to a publication of the American School of Home Economics, Chicago, 111., entitled " Food Values," which gives an excellent list of 100-calorie portions. SELECTION OF FOOD 141 must know their chief sources. Carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen are present in all foods, while nitrogen and sulphur are found in all protein, so these are easily supplied in the diet. A liberal supply of milk, eggs, and cheese will furnish calcium and phos- phorus, the latter being also abundant in whole grains and vegetables. Sodi?im is largely used, being one of the ingredi- ents of common salt and also being found in many vegetables. Chlorine is supplied by common salt. Vegetable foods, espe- cially spinach and prunes, are valuable sources of iron, while entire wheat contains both iron and magnesium, which is also present in cocoa, chocolate, dried beans, almonds, walnuts, pea- nuts, and oatmeal. Dried beans and peas, figs, dates, prunes, raisins, cocoa, and most acid fruits furnish a relatively large amount of potassium. For further assistance in arranging a family dietary, the food values given for each group of recipes may be consulted. No one meal need include all the foodstuffs if all are represented in the menus for the day. It is likewise true of the daily cal- oric need that a slight lack on one day may be made up by a corresponding increase on the next. The menus which follow may be modified to suit the needs of one or more individuals. By way of contrast with the well- balanced meals are given three examples of meals containing an excess of the food principle indicated, in the hope that they may assist in the avoidance of such mistakes. 142 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Well-Balanced Menus Menu I Breakfast Stewed prunes Rolled oats . Milk . . Sugar Toast ... Butter Bacon Coffee Cream Sugar Luncheon or Supper Creamed haddock Toast Sauce Rice muffins Butter Cocoa Whipped cream Beet greens Baked apple Sugar Cream Dinner Tomato soup Croutons Bread Butter ....... Roast pork Gravy Apple sauce Apple Sugar Amount Calories 4 3 hp. J- c 3 t " i tb. 2 sl. I tb. I lg. sl I c. 4 tb. I tb. tb. i c. Jtb. 2 sl. J- c 3 l " I 2 tb. IOO IOO 50 50 200 IOO 150 IOO 50 900 5 oz. 100 *d. 5° ic 125 I 100 ^tb. 50 I c. 200 2 tb. 50 2 hp. tb. 5° 1 75 1 tb. 50 2 tb. 5° 900 50 50 50 400 100 75 100 SELECTION OF FOOD 143 Menu I (Continued) Franconia potatoes Boiled onions Butter Bread (whole-wheat) .... Butter Snow pudding Custard sauce Amount Calories 2 200 3 125 1 tb. 100 2 si. 200 1 tb. 100 2 hp. tb. 70 1 c 4 *~ 75 1695 Menu II Breakfast Banana Shredded-wheat biscuit . . . Milk Sugar Scrambled eggs Butter . Corn-meal muffins Butter Coffee Cream Sugar Luncheon or Supper Cream-of-celery soup .... Cheese crackers Cheese Butter Potato salad Potato Lettuce Mayonnaise Bran muffins Butter Baked caramel custard .... Amount Calories I I A c 3 *-• i tb. 2 1 tb. 1 *tb. 1 c. 4 tb. 1 tb. 100 100 5° 5° 200 100 100 5° 100 5° 9OO 1 c. 5° 4 50 \ oz. 3° i tb. 5° 1 IOO 2 leaves 1 tb. 175 2 200 1 tb. IOO 1 c ■2 *- 150 905 144 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Menu II (Continued) Dinner Cream of green peas .... Browned crackers Butter Roast lamb Gravy Baked spaghetti and tomato . Spinach Bread Butter Lettuce salad French dressing Olives Prune souffle Cream (whipped) Peanut cookies Amount Calories I c. 150 4 50 i tb. 100 2 Si. 300 -t c 3 *-■ IOO 4 hp. tb. 200 4 hp. tb. IOO I si. 100 h tb. 5° 2 leaves — 2 tb. 150 3 50 2 hp. tb. 100 4 tb. IOO 4 150 1700 Menu III Breakfast Orange " Grapenuts " Milk Sugar Rolls (white) Butter Creamed salt fish . . . . Sauce Coffee Cream Sugar Calories 5° 100 5° 5° 200 100 75 125 100 50 900 SELECTION OF FOOD H5 Menu III (Continued) Luncheon or Supper Creole beans Tomato sauce Nut bread Butter Cabbage (shredded) French dressing Fruit macedoine Orange Banana Sugar Dinner Corn soup Duchess crusts Bread Butter Round steak Creamed potatoes Sauce . . Buttered beets Butter String beans Butter Bread (whole-wheat) .... Butter Baked Indian pudding .... Cream Amount Calories 3 hp. tb. h c - 2 si. 1 tb. 3 hp. tb. 2 tb. tb. 200 5o 200 100 5 150 So 5° 100 905 I c. 140 1 si. 100 £ tb. 5° 2 si. 270 2 200 1 c 170 4 hp. tb. 5° 1 tb. [OO 2 hp. tb. 15 T tb. 25 1 si. 100 h tb. . 5° 2 hp. tb. 325 4 tb. 100 1695 146 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Poorly Balanced Menus Excess of Protein Pea soup Whole-wheat crackers Roast beef Macaroni Dried Lima beans Whole-wheat bread Baked custard Crackers and cheese Excess of Starch and Sugar Corn soup Browned crackers Roast turkey Mashed white potatoes Sweet potatoes Green peas Cranberry sauce White bread Baked rice pudding Cocoa Excess of Eat Oxtail soup Fried croutons Liver and bacon Gravy Creamed potatoes Buttered parsnips Salmon salad with mayonnaise Suet pudding Whipped-cream sauce INDEX Albumenized fruit juice, 115 Albumenized milk, 115 Apple roll, 134 Apple sauce, 8 Apple snow, 65 Apples, baked, 8 Apples, glazed, 8 Apples, stuffed, 8 Apricot puffs, 51 Apricot roll, 53 Apricots, stewed, 7 Artichokes, Jerusalem, 13 Asparagus, 13 Bananas, baked, 8 Batter puddings, 46 Beans, baked, 93 Beans, kidney, and rice, 93 Beans, lima, a la Creole, 93 Beans, shell, 13 Beans, string, 11 Beef, a la Waldorf, 127 Beef, Creole, and macaroni, 127 Beef, rolled, 77 Beef juice, 114 Beets, buttered, 12 Beets, pickled, 12 Biscuits, almond, 120 Biscuits, baking-powder, 44 Biscuits, emergency, 44 Biscuits, graham, 45 Biscuits, squash, 119 Biscuits, whole-wheat, 45 Boston roast, 93 Bread, brown, 41 Bread, corn, 120 Bread, graham, 31 Bread, milk, 31 Bread, nut, 44 Bread, quick graham, 44 Bread, rolled-oats, 31 Bread, sweet rye, with raisins, ni Bread, water, 31 Bread, whole-wheat, 31 Breadsticks, 31 Broth, clam, 114 Broth, lamb, 73 Broth, oyster, 114 Broth, Scotch, 73 Buckwheat cakes, 39 Butter taffy, 54 Buns, 31 Buns, cinnamon, 120 Cabbage, boiled, 11 Cabbage salad, 16 Cake, angel, 49 Cake, cheap sponge, 49 Cake, chocolate, 51 Cake, coffee, 51 Cake, devil's-food, I, 121 Cake, devil's-food, II, 121 Cake, Dutch apple, 44 Cake, economy, 122 Cake, Lady Baltimore, 122 Cake, layer, 51 Cake, lemon layer, 123 Cake, loaf, 51 Cake, mahogany, 122 Cake, mocha, 124 Cake, rich sponge, 49 Cake, Roxbury, 123 Cake, sour-milk, 51 Cake, water sponge, 49 Cake, white, 51 Cake, white layer, 51 Cakes, cup, I, 51 Cakes, cup, II, 51 Cakes, German coffee, 119 Cakes, poverty, 118 Candy, 54 Candy, barley, 54 Cannelon, roast, 74 Canning, 109 Caramels, 54 Carrots, buttered, n Cauliflower, 1 1 Celery, 16 Celery, stewed, 11 Cereals, breakfast, 22 Cereals, granular, 22 Charlotte, caramel, 82 Charlotte, fig, 135 Charlotte russe, 80 147 148 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Cheese, cottage, 61 Cheese, creamed, 62 Cheese custard, toasted, 62 Cheese fondue, 62 Cheese pudding, 62 Cheese sandwich, 35 Cheese souffle, 62 Cheese-and-pimiento pudding, 130 Chicken, roast, 83 Chicken fricassee, 84 Chicken hollandaise, 128 Chicken pie, 84 Chicory, 15 Chocolate, 6 Chocolate cream, 26 Chou cases, 102 Chowder, clam, 90 Chowder, corn, 18 Chowder, fish, 86 Chowder, vegetable, 18 Clams, deviled, 92 Clams, fried, I, 92 Clams, fried, II, 92 Cocoa, 6 Cocoa, cracked, 6 Cocoa shells, 6 Codfish puff, baked, 126 Codfish, Spanish, 88 Coffee, boiled, 5 Coffee, filtered, 5 Coffee, percolator, 5 Coffee cream, 27 Conserve, grape, 117 Cookies, Boston, 124 Cookies, chocolate, 47 Cookies, filled, 47 Cookies, molasses, 47 Cookies, peanut, 47 Cookies, sugar, 47 Corn cake, 43 Corn, green, 13 Corn oysters, 41 Corned beef au gratin, creamed, 128 Corn-meal mush, 22 Crabs, deviled, 92 Cranberry jelly, 8 Cranberry sauce, 8 Cream, caramel Spanish, 81 Cream, chocolate Bavarian, 80 Cream, chocolate Spanish, 81 Cream, coffee Bavarian, 82 Cream, coffee Spanish, 81 Cream, fruit Bavarian, 80 Cream, ginger, 82 Cream, imperial rice, 136 Cream, macaroon, 81 Cream, marshmallow, 134 Cream, Spanish, 80 Creamcakes, 49 Croquettes, fish, 99 Croquettes, meat, 99 Croquettes, meat-and-potato, 99 Croquettes, potato, 99 Croquettes, rice, 99 Croquettes, sweet rice, 99 Cry-babies, 1 24 Cucumbers, 15 Custard, baked, 65 Custard, caramel, 66 Custard, chocolate, 66 Custard, fruit, 66 Custard, soft, 65 Custard, soft caramel, 66 Custard, soft chocolate, 66 Custard, tapioca, 65 Dates, stuffed, 8 Doughnuts, 39 Dresden sandwiches, 37 Dressing, French, 95 Dressing, sweet French, 96 Dried-apple sauce, 7 Drippings, 99 Duchess crusts, 35 Duck, roast, 85 Dumplings, 41 Eclairs, chocolate, 51 Eclairs, coffee, 51 Eclairs, vanilla, 51 Eggnog, 113 Eggnog, fruit, 1 13 Eggplant, 13 Eggplant, stuffed, 14 Eggs, baked, 63 Eggs, creamed, 63 Eggs, creamy, 63 Eggs, dropped, 63 Eggs, goldenrod, 65 Eggs, hard-cooked, 63 Eggs, scrambled, 63 Eggs, scrambled, with tomato, 64 Eggs, soft-cooked, 63 Endive, 15 English monkey with tomato, 129 Figs, stewed, 7 Filling, chocolate, 56 Filling, chocolate cream, 58 Filling, coffee cream, 58 INDEX 149 Filling, cream, 56 Filling, fig, 56 Filling, lemon, 56 Filling, lemon-butter, 123 Filling, mocha, 124 Filling, orange, 58 Filling, prune-almond, 56 ' Finnan haddie, 88 Finnan haddie, creamed, 88 Finnan haddie, epicurean, 90 Fish, baked, 86 Fish, baked fillet of, 86 Fish, boiled, 85 Fish, broiled, 86 Fish, deviled, with rice, 126 Fish, fried, 87 Fish, salt, creamed, 88 Fish, scalloped, 36 Fish, smoked and salt, 88 Fish a la Creole, 125 Fish balls, 99 Fish cakes, 88 Fish hash, 87 Fish and oyster pie, 126 Fish sauted, 87 Fish souffle, 87 Fish timbales, 87 Flapjack, Irish, 118 Florentine meringue, 103 Fondant, 54 Fowl, boiled, 83 Fricassee, brown, 84 Fritters, corn, 39 Fritters, fruit, 39 Fritters, potato and cheese, 13: Frosting, boiled, 56 Frosting, caramel, 56 Frosting, chocolate, I, 57 Frosting, chocolate, II, 56 Frosting, chocolate, III, 56 Frosting, coffee, 57 Frosting, confectioner's, 56 Frosting, milk, 56 Frosting, orange, 56 Frosting, ornamental, 56 Frosting, plain, 56 Fruit canapes, 134 Fruit macedoine, 8 Fruit punch, 8 Fruit sponge, 28 Frying, 99 Fudge, 54 Ginger snaps, 47 Gingerbread, hard sugar, 120 Goose, roast, 85 Gravy, giblet, 84 Griddlecakes, 39 Griddlecakes, bread, 39 Gruel, oatmeal, 1 1 5 Gruel, rice-flour, 1 1 5 Hash cakes, 78 Hermits, 47 Hominy cakes, 22 Hominy and cheese, 24 Hominy and tomato, 24 Ice, lemon, 108 Ice, orange, 107 Ice, pineapple, 108 Ice cream, chocolate, 10S Ice cream, custard, 107 Ice cream, vanilla, 107 Icing, soft, 124 Jelly, coffee, 80 Jelly, fruit, 80 Jelly, lemon, 80 Jelly, orange, 80 Jelly, peach tapioca, 28 Jelly roll, 51 Jumbles, 47 Junket, caramel, 61 Junket, plain, 61 Lady fingers, 50 Lentil rolls, 93 Lettuce, 15 Liver and bacon, 74 Lobster, creamed, 90 Lobster, deviled, 92 Lobster salad, 96 Macaroni, baked, 25 Macaroni, boiled, 25 Macaroni, creamed, 25 Macaroni a la Creole, 25 Macaroni a l'italienne, 25 Macaroni and cheese, 25 Macaroni and tomato, 25 Marmalade, amber, no Marmalade, orange, no Mayonnaise, cooked, 95 Mayonnaise, three-minute, 95 Meat, boiled, 71 Meat, braised, 74 Meat, broiled, 71 Meat, jellied, 74 Meat, minced, 78 150 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Meat, pan-broiled, 71 Meat, roast, 70 Meat, sauted, 72 Meat, scalloped, 36 Meat hash, 78 Meat loaf I, 74 Meat loaf II, 79 Meat loaf III, 78 Meat pie, 78 Meat rolls, 74 Meat souffle, 78 • Meat timbales, 78 Menus, poorly balanced, 146 Menus, well-balanced, 142 Meringue, 65 Meringue, baked, 66 Mousse, coffee, 108 Mousse, ginger, 107 Mousse, plain, 136 Mousse, rich, 136 Muffins, berry, 43 Muffins, bran, 117 Muffins, cereal, 43 Muffins, corn-meal, 43 Muffins, graham, 43 Muffins, oatmeal, 31 Muffins, plain, 43 Muffins, raised flour, 31 Muffins, rice, 43 Muffins, Shirley, 43 Nut brittle, 54 Nut loaf, 93 Oatmeal, whole, 23 Oats, rolled, 23 Onions, boiled, 1 1 Omelet, 63 Omelet, bread, 64 Omelet, potato, 130 Omelet, rice, 131 Orange puffs, 46 Oyster pie, 90 Oyster stew, 90 Oysters, deviled, 92 Oysters, fried, I, 90 Oysters, fried, II, 92 Oysters, panned, 90 Oysters, scalloped, 90 Oysters and macaroni, 90 Panocha, 54 Parsnips, buttered, 11 Paste, chopped, 101 Paste, egg, 101 Paste, plain, 101 Paste, quick, 101 Pates, 101 Peaches, stewed, 7 Peas, green, 13 Pepper hash, 112 Peppermints, 54 Peppers, stuffed, 13 Piccalilli, 1 1 1 Pickle, aristocratic, 1 1 1 Pickle, mustard, 112 Pickle, sweet tomato, 117 Pickles, cucumber, 112 Pie, apple, 103 Pie, apricot, 103 Pie, berry, 104 Pie, butterscotch, 103 Pie, cherry, 104 Pie, chocolate, 103 Pie, cottage, 78 Pie, custard, 103 Pie, dried peach, 104 Pie, dried prune, 104 Pie, lemon, 103 Pie, lemon sponge, 125 Pie, mock cherry, 125 Pie, mock mince, 103 Pie, orange, 103 Pie, peach, 104 Pie, sour-milk, 125 Pie, squash, 103 Pop-overs, 46 Potato cakes, 19 Potato cases, 19 Potato puff, 19 Potatoes, baked, 19 Potatoes, baked sweet, 21 Potatoes, boiled, 19 Potatoes, boiled sweet, 22 Potatoes, chopped, 19 Potatoes, chopped sweet, 2: Potatoes, creamed. 19 Potatoes, Delmomco, 21 Potatoes, Franconia, 19 Potatoes, fried, 99 Potatoes, glazed sweet, 22 Potatoes, Hungarian, 131 Potatoes, Lyonnaise, 19 Potatoes, mashed, 19 Potatoes, mashed sweet, 22 Potatoes, sauted, 19 Potatoes, scalloped, 19 Potatoes, stuffed, 19 INDEX 151 Potatoes, stuffed sweet, 21 Rolls, luncheon, 31 Prune whip, 67 Rolls, Parker House, I, 31 Prunes, stewed, 7 Rolls, Parker House, II, 119 Prunes, stuffed, 8 Romaine, 1 5 Pudding, apple, 41 Pudding, apple sago, 26 Salad, bird's-nest, 96 Pudding, baked berry, 47 Salad, celery and apple, 96 Pudding, baked cornstarch, 26 Salad, cheese, 130 Pudding, baked Indian, 26 Salad, chicken, 98 Pudding, baked rice, I, 26 Salad, egg, 69 Pudding, baked rice, II, 26 Salad, egg-and-potato, 69 Pudding, baked tapioca, 65 Salad, egg-and-sardine, 96 Pudding, berry, 37 Salad, fish, 96 Pudding, caramel rice, 29 Salad, frozen fruit, 133 Pudding, chocolate, 41 Salad, lobster, 96 Pudding, chocolate bread, 37 Salad, meat, 96 Pudding, cold cabinet, 81 Salad, perfection, 133 Pudding, cottage, 46 Salad, pineapple, 96 Pudding, Delmonico, 65 Salad, potato, 69 Pudding, fruit bread, 37 Salad, shrimp, 98 Pudding, graham, 41 Salad, tomato, 96 Pudding, hot berry, 38 Salad, tomato jelly, 96 Pudding, lemon, 37 Salad, vegetable, 69, 96 Pudding, lemon cream, 135 Salad dressing, butter, 68 Pudding, Norwegian prune, 26 Salad dressing, cream, 68 Pudding, orange, 27 Salad dressing, hot, 68 Pudding, peach, 27 Salad dressing, plain, 68 Pudding, plain bread, 37 Salad dressing, rich, 68 Pudding, plum, 42 Salmon, smoked, 88 Pudding, prune tapioca, 26 Salsify, creamed, 13 Pudding, rice pineapple, 65 Sauce apricot, 60 Pudding, scalloped apple, 36 Sauce brown, 29 Pudding, snow, 81 Sauce brown-sugar, 59 Pudding, steamed batter, 41 Sauce cheese, 30 Pudding, steamed berry, 42 Sauce chocolate, 59 Pudding, suet, 41 Sauce creamy, 59 Pudding, Swedish, 135 Sauce drawn-butter, 29 Pudding, vanilla sponge, 26 Sauce egg, 3° Pudding sauces, 59 Sauce egg (pudding), 59 Puddings, queen of, 37 Sauce foamy, 59 Radishes, 15 Rabbit, Mexican, 129 Rabbit, Welsh, 62 Rhubarb sauce, 8 Rice, boiled, 23 Rice, steamed, 23 Rice and cheese, 23 Rice and salmon, 23 Rice and tomato, 23 Ricelets, 118 Rolled oats, 22 Rolls, coffee, 31 Rolls, fruit, 44 Sauce, fudge, 59 Sauce, hard, 59 Sauce, lemon, 59 Sauce, lobster, 126 Sauce, mock hollandaise, 30 Sauce, orange, 59 Sauce, parsley, 30 Sauce, tartar, 86 Sauce, tomato, 29 Sauce, tomato cream, 29 Sauce, vanilla, 59 Sauce, white, 29 Sauce piquante, 30 Scalloped dishes, 35 152 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK Scalloped rice and meat, 129 Scallops, fried, I, 92 Scallops, fried, II, 90 Sherbet, lemon milk, 107 Sherbet, pineapple, 107 Shortcake, 44 Shrimps, deviled, 92 Slaw, cold, 69 Slaw, hot, 69 Souffle, chocolate, 65 Souffle, prune, 65 Souffle, vanilla, 65 Soup, baked-bean, 17 Soup, black-bean, 18 Soup, celery, 16 Soup, corn, 16 Soup, green-pea, 16 Soup, kidney-bean, 18 Soup, lentil, 18 Soup, lima-bean, 18 Soup, oxtail, 73 Soup, potato, 16 Soup, split-pea, 17 Soup, tomato, 16 Soup, tomato bisque, 16 Soup stock, 73 Soup stock, white, 73 Soy, 1 1 1 Spaghetti, Neapolitan, 132 Spinach, 11 Spinach, bechamel, 12 Sponge drops, 49 Sprouts, Brussels, 13 Squab, 116 Squash, 11 Squash, summer, 13 Steak, Hamburg, 74 Steamed mixtures, 41 Stew, beef, 74 Stew, Italian,. 74 Stew, lamb, 74 Stew, okra, 127 Stew, Syrian, 128 Stew, veal, 74 Succotash, 13 Swedish timbale cases, 13: Sweetbreads, 116 Tarts, 103 Tarts, Banbury, 103 Tarts, Melba, 106 Tea, 4 Tea, Russian (cold), 4 Tea, Russian (hot), 4 Toast, 34 Toast, cream, 34 Toast, egg, 34 Toast, hot-water, 34 Toast, plain, 34 Toast, tomato cream, 34 Tomato, savory, 132 Tomato, scalloped, 36 Tomato timbales, 131 Tomatoes, baked, 13 Tomatoes, scalloped, 13 Tomatoes, sliced, 16 Tomatoes, stewed, 13 Tomatoes, stuffed, 14 Tripe a la poulette, 128 Turkey, roast, 85 Turnips, mashed, 1 1 Veal birds, 77 Vegetables, scalloped, 36 Wafers, ginger, 47 Wafers, nut, 47 Waffles, plain, 39 Waffles, raised, 39 Water, barley, 1 14 Water, jelly, 1 14 Water, rice, 1 14 Water, toast, 114 Watercress, 16 Wheat, cracked, 23 Whey, 1 13 Yeast bread and rolls, 31 .