<^7 ii mniTr— ii Mii i iTmii i rr iii i ii i i i-- — i — o ■ ■Hi iiii«iiiiiiiiiiiiiiminminnir-ii-TiTfT"t"— ■'"•"•••*^" Class TT-^ ^-^ Book "'^' Copyright W COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. Simple Solderin BOTH HARD AND SOFT TOGETHER WITH ** DESCRIPTIONS OF INEXPENSIVE HOME-MADE APPARATUS NECESSARY FOR THIS ART BY EDWARD THATCHER Instructor of Decorative Metal Work Columbia Uni'versity, Nenv York FIRST EDITION NEW YORK SPON & CHAMBERLAIN, 123 Liberty St. LONDON E. & F. N. SPON, Ltd., 57 Haymarket, S.W. 1910 Copyright 1910, SPON & CHAMBERLAIN New York c. - 1 s r^^ CAMELOT rUKSS, 444-40 Pearl Stie«*t, >ew York, V. S. A. (gCI.A368i33 PREFACE In looking through many books on the sub- ject of soldering and in an almost daily use of the processes described in the following pages, it has seemed that something more might be written of, " how " rather than " why." The action of metals under heat ; the unions resulting from the melting and amalgamations or welding properties of certain metallic combi- nations; the fluxes required to clean and protect the metals to be joined; the number of degrees of heat needed, etc.^; are aptly described in other works. But the method of securing the desired result in the simplest possible manner is not often clear, and to that end this little book is written. Edward Thatcher. New York, 1910. CONTENTS CHAPTER I Soldering PAGE The uniting of metals. Soft soldering. The flux. Hard soldering or brazing I CHAPTER II Soft Soldering Heating the work. Flux for soldering. Soldering fluid. Simple joints. Soldering a ring. Common solder. The flame. Heating the joint. Resin. Small work. Tinning. A handy scraper . . 3 CHAPTER III Methods of Holding Work Wiring work. Special holders. Soldering to steel or iron. Soldering brass castings. A stiff bristle brush. Tinfoil solder. Plaster-of-Paris resist. Soldering jewelry. Cooling. Tinning a bowl. The soldering copper. The charcoal furnace. Joining sheets of metal. Common sheet tin. Pure tin solder 15 CHAPTER IV Hard Soldering or Brazing Silver solder. Soldering copper. Soldering iron and steel. Soldering gold. Soldering aluminum. Use of borax as a flux; Both as a powder; as a paste; and as a liquid. Causes of solder refus- ing to melt. Action of water and acid on soldered joints. Protecting soldered joints with rouge. The secrets of hard soldering. The charcoal block. The pickle-bath. Brazing '<>,.. 2S CONTENTS CHAPTER V Cleaning up Work. Polishing PAGE Scraping down. Honing. Finishing. Buff-sticks. Buff-wheel. Files. Burnishing » . o . , 52 CHAPTER VI Standard Apparatus The blow-pipe. Foot bellows. The gasoline torch. The alcohol blow-torch. The Bunsen Burner. The charcoal brazier. Soldering iron furnace . 56 CHAPTER Vn Home-made Apparatus A simple Bunsen burner. A simple blow-pipe. A large blow-pipe. The construction of a pair of bellows. A soldering box. How to make a very small soldering iron ....... = 0. t>3 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS No. PAGE 1. Butt joint 6 2. Lap joint 6 3. Metal workers scraper 7 4. Soldering ring with bunsen burner . . . . g 5. Soft soldering a ring on to a flat surface . . 11 6. Hoe scraper 16 7. 8, 9, ID, II. Spring clamps for holding work . 16 12. Plan for handy holder 17 13. A handy holder for special work 18 14. Soldering on cylinder head 22 15. Spring clipp for holding ball 23 16. Plaster-of-Paris resist 24 17. Ordinary soldering copper 26 18. Soldering two sheets of tin together .... 28 19. Soldering two sheets of tin together (second method) 29 20. Soldering a watch chain 31 21. Preparing a ring for soldering 36 22. Slate block for mixing borax ^7 2S. Pair of tweezers 38 24. Hard soldering a ring 40 25. Hard soldering a ring to flat surface .... 41 26. Charcoal soldering block 47 27. The pickle bath 48 28. Double gasoline soldering torch* 49 29. Welding with a charcoal fire 50 30. " Scotch stone " 53 31. Burnisher 55 32. Blow-pipe 56 33. Blow-pipe showing flame 57 34. Gasoline torch 58 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS No. PAGE 35. Alcohol blow-torch . . . . o » . c . 59 36. Charcoal brazier for soldering .„»... 60 2;j. Soldering iron furnace . . .. o . < c :. 61 38. Bunsen burner . ...„.„ o „ o . 63 39. A simple blow-pipe, detail ...... O4 40. 41. A simple blow-pipe completed .... 65 42. A large blow-pipe .... ..... 67 43. Foot bellows, end piece .... ... 68 44. 45. Foot bellows, sectional views . „ . . 69 46. Foot bellows, pattern for Icathi^r . „ , , . 71 47. Foot bellows, fastening for leather , . , . 71 48. Foot bellows, protecting band - T^ 49. Foot rest TZ 50. Completed foot bellows 74 51. A soldering box 75 52. Small soldering copper ...<,..., 76 CHAPTER I Introductory The Uniting of Metals, by a fused metallic substance, or metallic cement as the dictionary has it, is what is known as soldering. In order that the metals be properly united with the metallic solder they must be perfectly clean and free from dirt or oils of any sort, and so are usually scraped with a knife-like instru- ment or rubbed bright with emery cloth. To further clean the metal and render it clear of all dirt and oxide from the source of heat a " flux " is used. The class of work requiring soft solder, and the class of work to be hard soldered are usually of quite different types. Soft Soldering. The metal used for soft sol- dering is usually a mixture of equal parts of tin and lead. This has the advantage of requir- ing a much lower temperature to fuse it than the metals which it is to unite. The Flux used for soft soldering is usually resin or '' killed acid," the latter being known as soldering fluid. The purpose of this flux is simply to keep the metals clean where soldered 2 SIMPLE SOLDERING or rather, where they are to be united by the solder. Hard Soldering or Brazing. Silver or brass is used as the uniting metal (brass solder is known as spelter). This of course makes a much stronger joint than soft-solder; but the higher degree of heat needed to melt the silver or brass solder makes it often useless for jobs which will not stand a high degree of heat. Hard Soldering also requires more complicated apparatus to attain the required amount of heat. The Flux used for Hard Soldering and Braz- ing is usually borax dry or in the form of a paste. Muriatic acid is also used for special kinds of work. Both processes have come to be used for cer- tain things well suited to the conditions of their several merits, and the matter on the following pages is intended to make this clear. CHAPTER II Soft Soldering Soft Soldering is generally known as some- thing that is accomplished with a soldering iron or copper, which is a piece of copper weighing from a few ounces to several pounds firmly attached to an iron rod having a handle. It is usually heated in a charcoal or gas furnace until it will melt soft solder and then removed and placed in contact with the joint to be soldered. Thus heating up the metals to be united as well as the solder on the spot where the solder should " run " or flow and adhere. This method has its advantages, but I think many amateurs try to make joints by this method greatly to their detriment instead of resorting to direct heating with the flame which will be described first. Heating the Work. No matter how the heat is conveyed to the joint it must be remembered that both pieces to be soldered must be heated equally or else the piece which receives the most heat, usually the smaller, will absorb all the sol- der. It is a safe rule to always heat the larger piece first, allowing the smaller pieces to receive 3 4 SIMPLE SOLDERING their heat from the larger ones. Both metals to be joined must be heated to the melting point of the solder. Flux for Soldering. Before we can make a perfect joint we must have a proper flux. For many purposes resin is used, but soldering fluid serves almost wholly for all small work except electrical connections. For electrical work a special soldering stick is made from resinous compounds. This may be purchased at any electrical supply house. Resin may be had of the hardware merchant. But the cleanliness of soldering fluid makes it advisable for general use. In electrical work some engineers main- tain that the acid corrodes the metals, others say it does not ; many use it, but the soldering stick is generally used. When making experi- mental models in metals, attaching pins to jew- elry and all such work use the soldering fluid which may be purchased ready made, or can be prepared in the following simple manner. Soldering Fluid. Use an open mouth pint fruit-jar and pour in about half a pint of chem- ically pure muriatic acid. Then get some pure zinc. Battery zincs are best because pure. The zinc used under stoves, and about the shop is not pure. Use only the purest zinc there is to be had. The battery zinc is easiest to obtain ; if this is in sheets cut it into small strips about SOFT SOLDERING 5 YiQ inch wide and 2 inches in length or in any way so the acid may rapidly attack it. If the zinc is in bars a coarse wood rasp is useful to reduce it to small bits or filings. Put a small handful of the zinc clippings or filings into the jar of muriatic acid. This should start immediately to attack, and eat up the zinc, and a continuous bubbling action sets up. This operation should be carried on out of doors as the fumes from it are very injurious and dis- agreeable. After a while, say fifteen minutes, put in another handful of clippings and continue to add more at short intervals until the bubbling action ceases entirely when new zinc is intro- duced into the solution. The acid is now *' killed " or saturated with the zinc. It is a good plan to let it stand over night and carefully strain off in the morning so as to get a clear solution, throwing away the residue. If necessary it may be used immediately after the bubbling action ceases, but it is much better to let it settle. We now have a good soldering solution or flux for general soft soldering. It should be kept tightly covered by the screw top on the jar or by laying a piece of flat glass over the jar to exclude air. It is a good plan to use a small bottle with a ground-glass stopper. If the solu- tion evaporates and gets " strong " it becomes rather useless as it " gums " the work when heated. 6 SIMPLE SOLDERING Simple Joints, most commonly used are the " butt " joint and the " lap " joint. The "Butt" Joint, Fig. i, is made where the two ends of the metal meet squarely and where no great strength is required. Fig. I. The " Lap " Joint is used where strength is required and is made by filing the ends down to a sharp bevel so that they lap over each other as in Fig. 2. This gives more surface to be soldered and consequently greater strength. Fig. 2. Any work which is to be bent or hammered should be made with lap joints as soft solder will not stand a strong blow or strain. For such work, however, hard soldering is the best. In these problems the use of a soldering SOFT SOLDERING 7 copper is purposely avoided as much as possible the flame being principally used. After scraping a joint bright do not handle it with the fingers any more than may be nec- essary; no matter how clean they are even the natural oils of the body, to say nothing of the dirt accumulated in working metals, interferes with the making of a good joint. Soldering A Ring. Take a strip of sheet brass Y^q inch thick, by 3 inches long and f inch in width. First carefully shape up your ring so that the ends meet squarely, " butt together." They should be filed true, and be perfectly clean and bright. T)o not depend upon solder to fill up gaps and make your joints meet. A little film of solder is stronger than a lot of it. Scrape the brass around the joint for about a i inch on each side; also scrape the sides. This may be done with an old knife, file or a trian- gular instrument of steel set in a wooden handle used by metal-workers called a scraper. Fig. 3. The ring of brass expands when heated and tends to pull the joint apart. This should be prevented by tying the ring together with iron wire, usually soft iron wire about No. 2^, tied 8 SIMPLE SOLDERING around the ring as illustrated in Fig. 4. and not across it. This wire should be twisted tightly to- gether with a pair of pincers. It will then ef- fectually hold the joint together. Leave enough end to the wire to hold the ring by. Take a brush and moisten the joint thoroughly with the fluid but take care that it is wet only about and between it. Cut off three or four pieces about -J inch square from a narrow strip of solder (jewelers' solder) and place them in the joint with a pair of tweezers. The solder should first be scraped bright and then plentifully moistened with the fluid after it is laid on the joint. The ring is now ready for heating. Common Solder comes in bars about 14 inches in length and -J inch square. This form is not handy for direct heating and should be melted up into long narrow strips or small pellets. Wire solder or " jewelers' solder " is easy to ob- tain almost anywhere ; strips of it are easily made by pouring molten solder from an iron ladle into narrow grooves cut in a board with a small gouge. The Simplest Way to melt and flow the solder is to suspend the ring over a bunsen burner flame, Fig. 4. If that is not to be had, a compion gas stove, gasoline torch, Fig. 34, or even a charcoal fire may be used. 10 SIMPLE SOLDERING The Flame should be applied underneath, not above and in contact with the bits of solder. Swing the ring or flame slightly from side to side and so heat both sides evenly. The solder should melt and flow after very little heating. By no means allow the work to become red-hot ; it does not require a red heat to melt the solder. Such a temperature will not only oxidize the lead and tin in the soft solder to a brittle useless compound, but will eat holes deep into the work and cause no end of trouble. If this happens the whole process should be gone over again, the work rescraped, covered with fluid and new solder used. Even this is not always satisfac- tory and an entirely new piece of work may have to be produced. When Heating the Joint if the solder does not melt in what your experience leads you to be- lieve is a sufficient time, put some fresh solder- ing fluid on the hot joint. This may clean and release the solder which is sometimes prevented from melting by a film of oxide or dirt. You may also dip the end of a long strip of solder into the fluid and touch the hot metal at the joint, so that some of the strip of solder will melt and join the metal. Sometimes the ring has to be cooled and freshly scraped if the solder does not behave properly, even if fresh fluid and solder have been applied. SOFT SOLDERING II A few drops of water will cool the ring or it may be immersed slowly in water. If the wire is taken off too soon before the solder has cooled and " set," the joint may spring apart. When this happens for any rea- son the fact that both ends of the ring are probably coated with solder makes it possible to simply bind together again, wet with fluid and reheat. Resin. If resin or soldering stick is to be used, clean and bind the ring together as before, Fig. 5. heat slightly and apply the resin or stick to the joint, so that it is covered with melted resin as if Avith fluid. Apply the solder which also should be covered with melted resin and heat the work till the solder flows on. Scrape away the surplus resin afterwards. Some shops use for fluid, resin dissolved in alcohol. This makes a good flux. 12 SIMPLE SOLDERING In case it is required to solder the ring flat on its side to a sheet of flat brass or copper, scrape the edge of the ring and that part of the plate on which it rests. See that the ring lies flat on tlie plate and then bind it in place tightly with iron wire passing about both pieces. See Fig. 5. It is best to leave the old wire wrapped around the ring so that it will not pull apart in reheating. Moisten the new joint thoroughly with fluid and put a number of small pieces of solder on the inside of the ring about f of an inch apart as shown in the illustration. Care should be taken that the parts to be soldered be clean and then well moistened with soldering fluid. This job can be best heated with the flame underneath the flat plate until the solder melts when it will be seen to run along the joint and completely encircle the ring. Be careful not to overheat it. If heated from underneath hardly any trouble will be experienced. A simple way to handle such work is to rest it on an old bread toaster and play on the under- side of it with a flame, or rest the whole piece of work on a live bed of charcoal imtil the solder melts. ' However, if heated from the top, the flame must be kept from touching the solder itself as experience will show. Heat the larger piece first always and allow the smaller to absorb the heat from the larger pieces. If other parts SOFT SOLDERING I3 are also to be attached it must be borne in mind that since in order to solder them the whole plate has to be heated to the melting point of the solder, the former soldered work must be con- fined with wire or clamps or it will slide out of place and spoil the whole work. It may always be pushed back into place, however, if the solder is molten, but this leaves much solder where it is not wanted and is to be avoided as a " botch." Small Work such as pins, nuts, screws, etc. may be soldered on with the soldering copper as it confines the heat to the place where it is most needed. But again remember that both pieces must be heated equally, that is, the part of the larger work which receives the smaller piece and the smaller piece itself. Sometimes both pieces to be joined are thoroughly scraped and a piece of pure tinfoil placed between the well moistened pieces and heat applied. This effects a perfect joint. Tinning. In attaching small pieces it is best to " tin " them by first cleaning, then moistening with fluid and melting a film of solder over the surface to be joined. This is easily done by placing bits of solder on the surface and apply- ing the heat. A stick or wire brush will help spread the solder while molten provided the stick or brush be first dipped into the soldering fluid. 14 SIMPLE SOLDERING Supposing the work has been soldered and in order to make a neat job it is desired to scrape away the extra solder. This may be done by using the scraper for most of it, taking care, however, not to dig into anything but the sol- der so as not to hll the work itself with ugly scratches. A Handy Scraper is shown in Fig. 6. It is simply used as a hoe to pull the solder away. CHAPTER III Methods of Holding Work Some work may not be conveniently wired together and so it is a good idea to make some small spring clamps from heavy iron wire. They are very useful. To make one, take a piece of -J inch round iron wire about 4 inches long and flatten both ends on an anvil with a hammer as in Fig. 7. Then bend the ends together in an elongated form like Fig. 8. Squeeze the ends together in a vice to give them a spring and so hold to- gether whatever work you may have. That is so the clamp will hold it tightly of itself. Fig. 9. Supposing you have a brass ball to solder to a plate of copper. It would be impossible to safely wire the ball in place. A special clamp must be made for such work. One end is flat- ened while the other is twisted around into an eye, Fig. 10. The eye will hold the ball safely in place as in Fig. ii. Having previously scraped the ball and plate, proceed to solder as before. If any sort of accurate work is demanded, time will be saved by making these simple little devices. This last job should be heated under- neath. 15 Fig. 6 Fig- 7 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 17 Perhaps it is required to solder a brass gear wheel or disk on to a steel shaft or rod with soft solder. Let us take for an example a case where the brass disk is made of flat metal, Fig. 12. rather thin, say %6 inch, and is bored to fit the shaft or rod snugly. The best way to make a thoroughly good job and to insure having the disk square with the shaft, is to make an iron holder. The Holder is made by taking a square of sheet iron (Fig. 12.) the required size; first punch i8 SIMPLE SOLDERING a round hole in the center into which the rod should fit snugly. Then cut eight slits in the sheet as shown by the dotted lines in the sketch. Bend up the pieces i. 2. 3. 4. high enough to make a firm support for the disk, Fig. 13. By Fig. 13. using a small square you can then set the disk at right angles to the rod at the place where previously marked. The corners 5. 6. 7. 8. form legs for the holder. First slip the disk on to the rod and mark, METHODS OF HOLDING WORK I9 with a sharp steel point, exactly the position where it is to go. Remove the brass disk and brighten the rod with emery cloth at the spot where the joint is to be made. Also scrape about the hole in the disk. Before slipping the disk on the rod, thoroughly moisten the rod at joint with fluid, so that when the disk is in place the fluid is between and about the joint. Lay a few pieces of solder about the joint and heat slowly, taking care to heat the steel rod as much as the disk and using all precautions. A neat strong joint should be the result. The holder takes very little time to make and is well worth while, because having the rod up- right gives the solder a chance to form a collar about the joint which it would not do as well if the rod were horizontal at the time of heating. To Solder to Steel or Iron the acid is always used because the resin does not work satisfac- torily. If any difficulty is experienced in making the solder stick to the shaft or rod, this might be tinned first, that is, coated over with solder where the joint is to be made. This is done be- fore the disk is slipped on, by moistening the rod with fluid (some use pure muriatic acid) heating it and then touching the rod at the joint with a stick of solder wet with the fluid. As soon as the proper degree of heat has been reached the solder should flow on to the rod and stick only at the place which has been moistened 20 SIMPLE SOLDERING with the fluid. Care must be taken to remove the flame from the rod when applying the solder or else the flame will melt the solder away be- fore it reaches the rod. If the solder does not stick well moisten the rod afresh with a fluid- charged brush and brush the hot solder about until that part of the rod is thoroughly " tinned." If the disk to be attached is of galvanised iron pure muriatic acid will prove best as a flux. But the ordinary soldering fluid described will be found satisfactory in most cases. Soldering Brass Castings. Sometimes it is desired to solder a rather heavy brass casting fast to a sheet of brass or copper, for instance a pipe connection to a tank or some other similar work. For example take a brass cylinder casting. This we desire to close up at one end by a thin sheet of copper. The heavy casting should be first thoroughly scraped at the place where it is desired to attach the copper sheet. Then moisten the joint thoroughly with fluid and stand the casting up so that the joint is on top and as level as possible. The work should rest on an asbestos mat or old brick, so that when heated the heat will be retained as long as possible. Asbestos and brick are poor heat conductors. Heat the cylinder carefully and avoid playing the flame on soldering fluid until tlie solder melts and runs easily over the end, tinning it thor- METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 21 oughly. The flow of the solder may be helped w4th a brush charged with fluid. A Stiff Bristle Brush may safely be used and it might be well to add that it should be care- fully washed after wetting with acid, as the acid will eat away the brass or tin bristle holder. Let the cylinder cool down until the solder freezes or '' sets." Then having previously scraped the plate to which the cylinder is to be attached, moisten it and the tinned end of the casting with the fluid, and turn the tinned face of the cylinder down on the plate to be soldered. Apply the heat to the heavy casting as illus- trated in Fig. 14, and not to the plate. The copper plate will absorb enough heat from the casting. The flame should be played around so as to heat the work evenly. When sufficiently heated it will be found to have sweated fast so that very little solder shows. Tin Foil Solder. A sheet of tin foil well charged with fluid placed between two parts to be joined then heated makes a very snug joint, but the first method is recommended for begin- ners. It must be remembered that if a closed cylin- der is to be made by soldering flat pieces over each end so as to make it air tight that heating it sufficiently to make the solder flow will also cause the moisture and air inside to expand and 22 SIMPLE SOLDERING exert considerable pressure so that a small hole should be drilled somewhere to let this air out and avoid the possibility of holes being blown through the molten solder. The hole may be easily plugged up afterwards. This is particularly the case if a small metal ball is to be made from two pieces. One piece Fig. 14. should be made larger than the other so as to form a ledge or gutter to hold the bits of solder and a hole drilled through one of the pieces. The whole job must be held together by a clamp made with an eye at each end, Fig. 15. If the ball is to be screwed or riveted on to other work METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 23 it may be soft soldered, but it makes a much better job to hard solder it. This operation will be described later. If it is to be soft soldered to something else, it will be difficult to hold the two halves of the ball together while soldering Fig. 15. after having filed the ledge away. However, it may be done with care. Plaster-of-Paris Resist. If it is desired to soft solder a number of pieces together and there is no way to hold them firmly in place while addi- tions are made, plaster-of-paris should be mixed to a stiff paste with water, using a large propor- tion of plaster. This makes a good "resist" and should be built up about the all-ready sol- dered parts so as to hold them firmly in position (Fig. 16). Then we may proceed to solder the others in place, since the plaster will quickly set under the heat. But such work is best when hard soldered if it does not have a plating or coloring that would disappear in the hotter fire necessary for hard soldering. One of the great advantages of soft solder is the lower degree of heat required to make a 24 SIMPLE SOLDERING In hard soldering the degree of joint with it heat required to melt the silver or brass solder often warps thin metals out of shape or takes the temper out of steel, so that its use is confined to special work. For instance a jeweler in soldering a pin shank on to a scarf pin proper uses soft solder be- JOINT TO BE UNITED SOLDERED Fig. i6. cause it is often much handier after the stone is in place. Stones or Gems used in decorative work will not stand heating successfully beyond the melt- ing point of soft solder. The pin shanks are made of german silver usually because of the hard springy quality of that metal. A red heat is necessary to hard solder and that would take away this springy quality by annealing the pins. It is frequently necessary for the jeweler to at- tach new pins to delicate settings perhaps con- taining very valuable stones which it is not desirable to remove. In that case soft solder is METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 2$ used to fill the small cup which is attached to the pin. The jeweler accomplishes this by tak- ing the pin in his pincers and holding the cup which has been well moistened inside with fluid over a small flame and touching it almost in- stantly with a small bar of solder which melts into the cup. This is allowed to cool, then re- charged with soldering fluid laid on the setting while a small pin point flame is directed on to the back of the cup when the two metals quickly become attached. This is allowed to cool care- fully and slowly as water would probably spoil the stone by chilling it too quickly. Cooling. Small jobs which it is necessary to cool in a certain supported position may be very easily cooled with water squirted from a foun- tain pen filler. Tinning A Bowl. It is often desirable to tin a copper or brass bowl, that is to line it with tin. Having previously made the inside bright with emery cloth, it is an easy matter to swab the soldering solution about with a swab made of oakum bound fast to a stick. Heat the bowl gently over a charcoal fire or gas flame and melt in it some pure block tin. Paint the whole in- side with the melted tin, using the same oakum swab, and throw away the surplus. Care should be taken not to get the bowl too hot. These problems ought to give an idea of the 26 SIMPLE SOLDERING simple ways of applyinc^ soft solder to a large variety of work and an idea of what can be accomplished without the aid of the soldering copper which is so often associated with soft soldering. The Soldering Copper has its own particular uses and in some trades, such as the tinners and the plumbers, a very large percentage of the soldered work is done in this way. The sol- dering copper (Fig. 17) consists of a piece of Fig. 17. copper firmly held in an iron handle which has a wooden hand grip at its other end. This is usually heated in a small charcoal furnace or gas flame. The Charcoal Furnace may be easily carried about from place to place and is used for outdoor work. (Fig. 37). The copper should never be heated in a common coal fire, say in the kitchen range, as an amateur is apt to do. A common wood fire is a very good substitute. The coal- fire spoils the working or tinned end of the cop- per by the actions of the sulphur in the fire. It is easy to make a small copper weighing only a few ounces (see directions in Chapter METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 2.J VII). But unless the amateur has more than his usual facilities for casting, forging, etc., he had much better buy a large one weighing from a pound and a half to two pounds for general use. It will probably need to be filed to a flat wedge- shaped point (Fig. 17) and a coarse file is best for this work. If very blunt do not try to beat the copper red hot and forge it into shape over an anvil as you have seen a blacksmith forge iron. It will probably break ofif in chunks. The way to forge copper is to heat it red hot and then quench it in cold water which softens it, then hammer while cold. After a bit it will harden up and want to be re-softened again, so repeat the heating and cooling as often as necessary. Since the copper carries the molten solder on its point to the work this part must first be " tinned," covered with tin or solder. An easy way to accomplish this is after having previously cleaned and heated the copper so it will melt solder easily to place some powdered resin on an old sheet of scrap tin, rub hot copper back and forth on each of its faces until the point is covered with a good coat of tin for at least f inch. Having done this, care must be taken not to get the iron too hot or it will destroy the tinning on the end. It should never be al- lowed to become red-hot, but only hot enough to melt the solder at the instant of contact. It is a good plan to have an old dampened piece of rag 28 SIMPLE SOLDERING to wipe the point of the iron on as it comes from the fire. Some prefer to use an old brick for this or a sandy floor but the rag does very well. If no scrap tin is about, the iron may be easily tinned by first applying soldering Buid, then solder, having the iron of course hot. Joining Sheets of Metal. One of the most use- ful things to know is how to solder two ends of Fig. i8. sheet tin or brass together. Soft solder has not great strength and it is the usual practice to fold the metal into a seam that only requires the solder to hold it in place, and make it water tight. To solder the joint is very simple. First scrape the joint bright and then melt resin along the joint or run soldering fluid along it. For a short seam, enough solder may be picked up on the point of the copper once it METHODS OF HOLDING WORK 29 is hot enough and conveyed to the joint. But for larger seams the solder is held alongside (Fig. 18) or on top of the pointed end so that it melts and runs along the seam with the hot cop- per (Fig. 19). In this way the solder is fairly melted in the job. Small pellets of solder may be put along the seam and melted on by drawing Fig. 19. the copper along it. Keep the copper hot, if a large piece of work is to be done. Do not put the solder on when it is in a " slushy " condition or does not run freely frorA lack of heat in the iron and it looks grey in- stead of bright like quicksilver. The advantage of the copper is that it places the heat just where it is needed and except at point of contact does not greatly heat up the rest of the work. It is of special value for joining pieces of sheet tin together. 30 SIMPLE SOLDERING Common Sheet Tin is a thin plate of sheet iron coated on both sides with block tin. In all thin sheet metal work the copper is generally used, since the direct heating would warp and discolor it. The metal often covers wood and it would be impossible for many rea- sons to use anything save the copper. It should be remembered that the work must be perfectly clean and freshly scraped to do good soldering. It is sometimes desirable for the jeweler to attach a chain to a locket, with one connecting link, and the locket is perhaps made of plated ware or has a jewel in it that will not stand the heat. The connecting link then has to be neatly soft soldered. With such a small link it is only practical to do the job with a light jeweler's soldering copper. The link must be first scraped clean about the joint and then held up in some such manner that it is easy to get at. For ordinary work an old mechanical draw- ing pen makes a most excellent device. This may be held firmly in the vise by the handle arnd the jaws opened a bit by the thumb screw to take in the link. This will allow the locket to hang down on one side and the chain down on the other so both are out of the way as in Fig. 20. All that remains to be done is to have the copper well tinned and heated and the joint thoroughly moistened with fluid. Pick up a small drop of solder and touch the joint 32 SIMPLE SOLDERING with it. Hold the iron there a second as the link must be thoroughly heated to make the sol- der entirely fill the joints With too little heat it is apt to stick on the top side and leave the actual gap open. The residue may be scraped away and the joint plated to match the metal of the chain. Some artisans use pure tin for this instead of solder as the tin is a whiter color. However, tin does not solder so easily. The flame may be used in connection with the copper, heating the larger parts to the melting point of the solder and the smaller ones with the iron. Never try to solder a small wire to a heavy casting without first heating the casting. A short piece of copper wire set in pincers or a wooden handle may be used to place the solder into tiny corners where it would not otherwise go. The wire of course being hot. There are many shapes of coppers. A glance into any good tool dealer's catalog will show the dififerent forms devised for special w^ork. The common type will do for most all work however. For those who can afford it there is on the market an electric soldering iron that maintains a constant heat of the right degree and this is indeed a great convenience. But by fixing the principles of the art of soldering firmly in ones mind and experimenting and by not being afraid to make a mistake the most ordinary apparatus may be successfully used. CHAPTER IV Hard Soldering or Brazing Some forms of hard and soft soldering are carried out by exactly the same manner of oper- ation, the only difference being in the solder, the flux, and the degrees of heat required. Hard Soldering requires a much greater tem- perature since silver or brass are generally used as solder and borax in some form as a flux. A much stronger flame is needed ; that of a current of gas and air under pressure being preferred, or a gasoline or alcohol torch. In large heavy v^ork the blacksmith's forge, a charcoal fire or a speci- ally heavy blast of gas or gasoline is used. As in soft soldering the work must be thoroughly cleaned and scraped bright first. The Silver Solder is not pure silver, the common form being made up of f silver and ^ brass, cast into a flat ingot and rolled out to a thin sheet about ^ / ^^ inch thick. This is best obtained from some reputable dealer in gold and silver for the jewellers trade. That handled by most tool and hardware houses is made up for soldering band-saws, etc., and is usually a cheap 33 34 SIMPLE SOLDERING grade containing lead and sometimes zinc in too great a proportion. Although these metals make the solder flow easily, they are disastrous since they will pit and eat holes in silver work when the silver is red hot. Copper is even thus affected. The fact that pure silver is alloyed with brass makes it melt at a temperature slightly lower than that of the pure silver itself, hence the value of it in the building up of articles of silver into elaborate and complicated forms. Copper may not be soldered with Copper but it may be soldered or brazed with brass w^hich is an alloy of copper and zinc, melting at a lower temperature than the copper when properly fluxed wnth borax. Silver Solder is generally used to solder small articles in copper, brass, bronze, silver and ger- man silver. Iron and steel are usually soldered or brazed with brass. Though silver solder is used even for small steel or iron objects. In large work it is too expensive and brass is stronger and better suited for such work. Gold is usually soldered with gold of a lower grade or carat. For instance twenty-two carat gold may be soldered with eighteen carat ; eight- HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 35 een carat with fourteen ; fourteen with ten, etc. It is simply soldering the gold with an alloy of gold, gold and copper or gold and silver. Gold may be soldered with silver solder but the color is not always satisfactory, though it takes up a certain amount of the gold color. The Indians use pure silver filings mixed with saliva for soldering their silver work and this works fairly well as the heat attacks the smaller particles first and melts them. However, borax is better flux than saliva. Aluminum is usually soldered with a specially prepared solder which is best purchased with complete directions for using. Care should be taken, however, to heat both pieces of the work to be soldered, up to the melting point of the solder. As Aluminum is a soft metal melting at a low temperature it does not come under the head of hard soldering. Let us suppose we have to hard solder a 3 inch copper ring made from J inch round rod. First clean the joint thoroughly about the edges with the scraper. If freshly cut with a saw or file on which there was no oil or grease only the metal about the joint need be scraped. The ring being made of heavy copper is likely to expand to a great extent and thus pull the ends apart. Care should be taken to bind it with wire, as shown in Fig. 21, across and below center. Then bring an upward pressure to bear on it with the wire 3f' SIMPLE SOLDERING tightly twisted at the top of ring. So much for the preparation of the ring, for soldering. Borax in some shape is always used as the flux. In large work it is the powdered form that Fig. 21. is employed. In the smaller work it is much better to grind up lump borax on a slate block specially prepared for the purpose (Fig. 22) to a rather creamy consistency, using a large lump of borax, which may be easily held in the fingers and worked about with a circular motion HARD SOLDERING OR CRAZING Z7 on the block, which is hollowed out and contains about a tablespoonful of water. Care should be taken to lay the borax lump aside, clear of the water, not in it, as this will tend to make it crumble. Silver Solder usually comes in a thin sheet. A piece about i| inches by 3 inches by ^/q4, inch may be had for about 25c. in New York. Cut up Fig. 22. a small strip Yiq inch wide by 3 inches long and scrape it bright. Cut little pieces about Y^q inch square from this strip with a pair of shears and drop them into the borax mi:5^ture in the block. Eight of these pieces will be about enough for this job, but each piece of solder must be thor- oughly covered with the wet borax. Now dip a small brush into the wet borax and smear the solution between and above the 38 SIMPLE SOLDERING joint in the ring, thoroughly covering the part to be soldered. The solder will not run properly if this is not carefully applied. Put on plenty of the borax solution but only where you want the solder to flow. An injudicious use of the borax will muss up the work, and lead the solder away from the joint itself. While the borax is still in a wet pasty state, apply small pieces of solder, picked up in the points of a pair of tweezers (Fig. 23) and not with the fingers or any old thing at hand. Small pieces may be picked up on the tip of the brush with which the borax is applied, but Fig. 23. the tweezers are best. Place the solder above the joint where it will rest naturally but do not pile the pieces up. Keep them separated. The smaller the solder is cut the better it will work since large pieces tend to run up into balls on account of receiving too much heat and are liable to cool in this form. The object of placing them on wet is so the borax will form a sort of cement in drying, which it would not do if they were applied dry. If intense heat is applied too soon it will make HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 39 the borax " boil " or bubble up, often throwing the solder completely away from the work and throwing the latter out of place. The heat there- fore must be applied very slowly and gently. Difficult and elaborate work is usually first dried in an oven, so that the delicate parts may not be pushed away from each other when the borax expands under heat. For this reason also, it is best to use the lump borax ground with water. In order to melt the silver solder to the flowing point it is necessary to heat the copper ring to the melting point of the silver. This requires almost a white-heat. Now if one side of the joint is heated more than the other, the solder will flow on to the hottest part and will not ad- here to the cooler portion. Both sides of the joint must be equally heated. Care must be taken not to direct the heat on to the joint itself or on to the bits of solder until these melt from the heat received from the metal. If the flame is played on them they run up into little balls and either roll away or do not melt and flow further because of the oxide on them. It must always be remembered to let the solder melt from the heat transmitted by the metal and not the direct flame. The blow pipe best suited for this job is de- scribed in the chapter on apparatus (see Figs. 32 and 33), although a gasoline blow torch would answer nicely. 40 SIMPLE SOLDERING If the ring be suspended in the air and the flame directed on it, so much heat will be wasted that even with a very powerful flame it would be difficult to heat it sufficiently. The ring- should be surrounded by some heat reflecting material such as asbestos, fire brick or charcoal, asbestos Fig. 24. being the best. The ring should rest in the corner of a two-sided box having a square bot- tom. (See Fig. 24.) The flame should be carefully directed above and not against the ring, until the borax whitens. Then it may be played back and forth over the HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 41 part of the ring. When the melting point is reached the solder will be seen to " sweat " and suddenly dissolve into the joint and around it. Then the flame may be directed squarely on the joint for a second or two to complete the fusion. The ring should now be solidly soldered. It may then be plunged into the " pickle " bath which is a mixture of one part of sulphuric acid ROUGED JOINT Fig 25. and ten parts of water. This is usually kept under the soldering bench in a stone jar, covered. The action of the water and acid is to eat away the oxide and scale formed by the heat. The work after immersion should be almost instantly removed from this bath and should come away clean and bright. It should then be dipped into clean water and dryed in a box of sawdust by tumbling it about until the sawdust absorbs all the moisture. If it is desirable to add more sol- der during the heating process or after the solder 42 SIMPLE SOLDERING which was first placed on has melted, simply place more solder, well covered with borax, on the hot joint and reheat. More borax may be added while the ring is still hot. This will often help a stubborn bit of solder to flow. If the Solder refuses to melt, look to the way you are heating your ring. If this does not remedy it cool it in water only and scrape afresh, applying more borax and new solder. Silver solder will not fill up a hole or gap unless the operation is in very expert hands, and care must be taken to have the joints fit tightly together. No matter how tight the joint is the solder will fill it and the smaller the amount of solder used the stronger wdll be the joint. If the ring had been made of flat sheet metal instead of rod like the ring used to illustrate soft soldering (Fig. 25) and it is desired to sol- der it on its side to a flat sheet of copper we must proceed as follows: Let us take as an example a case where the ring has been soldered together with hard-solder. First scrape the side of the ring that is to be placed next the plate. Then scrape the plate thoroughly at the point of contact with the ring and bind the latter in position with iron wire. Apply borax about the joint and also a number of small pieces of solder %g i^ch square, J inch apart. Lay them inside the ring as indicated in HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 43 Fig. 25. Then dry the borax with a gentle heat so that it turns white. If the first joint made in the ring is not protected it will very likely open and the solder will flow into the larger body of molten solder which seems to exert a strong attraction for it. Therefore, this must be protected with an earthy mixture such as rouge and water, crocus and water or plaster- of-paris and water. Rouge, which is the best, is an oxide of iron and comes in the form of a fine red powder. A paste should be mixed to the consistency of house paint and placed in an old saucer. Use care not to make it too wet and then apply it to both sides of the joint as indicated in Fig. 25, by the darkened portion. Great care should be taken, however, not to allow the smallest particle of the rouge to touch where the new joint is to be made. This will happen if it contains too much water. The object of drying the borax first is so that the rouge will not mix with it. If the iron wires are very thin they had better be covered with rouge as it will keep them from burning apart. Heating. The work is now ready for heating. This should be done very carefully, avoiding the pieces of solder, remembering to heat the larger pieces first and keeping the flame constantly moving so as to heat the whole piece equally. 44 SIMPLE SOLDERING Remember that the ring which is probably lighter and on top is apt to get most of the heat, so heat up the back plate first. If the ring should be very small in proportion to the plate it would probably absorb enough heat from the larger piece to melt the solder without the flame touching the ring. This must be thoroughly understood. When the solder has run dip the work in the " pickle " and clean. If it is desired to attach some smaller pieces, such as brass knobs or nuts, to the back plate, pro- ceed as before. First secure the joints already made, by paint- ing them with rouge. Carefully heat the larger portion first with a constantly moving flame. Do not heat one portion of the work first, if sev- eral joints are to be soldered. Heat the whole thing up at once so that all the joints are done at one time. Do not direct the flame on one portion of the work. Keep it moving about constantly to ob- tain an even heat and avoid overheating the wires. If the piece of work is rather large for the flame at hand, it is a good plan to surround the work with a number of pieces of charcoal making a wall of it, so that it retains the heat and helps to keep the temperature even all about. Old pieces of broken brick are also very useful. All this of course is to be done on a suitably pro- tected bed of asbestos or brick or even cinders. HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 45 Sometimes work is heated up on a matted bunch of old fine iron wire called a " devil." Small pieces of work w^iich are moved out of position while the solder is molten may be pushed in place with a pointed iron wire. It sometimes- happens in making jewelry that while soldering on silver balls or small rings that they are strongly attracted by the larger heated bodies of metal, or the molten solder, and in that case a judicious use of the iron wire is very helpful in replacing them. Or if it is desired to remove a piece of work this may be done by first protecting the other parts with rouge, then heating the solder to the melting point and lifting the work off. It will be found to cling rather tenaciously, however, and care will be required to successfully perform the operation. The Whole Secret of Hard Soldering is to keep the work clean, to have the joint and solder well covered with borax, and to heat both parts to be joined slowly and equally. Copper should be experimented with before silver as copper melts at a much higher tem- perature than silver; therefore there is less chance of " burning up " the work when first starting in. The Melting Point of Sterling Silver is only a 46 SIMPLE SOLDERING little above that of ordinary silver-solder and great care is required to avoid melting up the work. The flame must always be in proportion to the work, using the largest flame possible on large work and the smallest on srnall work. Any sort of object may be built up, and any number of joints made if they are carefully pro- tected by rouge while the new joints are being made. Sometimes small pieces of silver wire or flli- gree are to be soldered together and there is no way of holding them together by clamps or wire. Charcoal Block. An especially prepared block of charcoal is used that does not burn away quickly and the work held in position by ordinary steel pins well rouged. (Fig. 26). The little balls may be laid up against the work so that they will adhere if carefully heated. A soft earthenware brick and a compressed asbestos pad are also obtainable for this purpose. The solder should be applied at each joint. If it is desirable to attach other pieces it may be done by covering the joints as they are soldered thick with rouge. Experience and patience alone will help here. At times it is necessary to solder together a solid metal wire or handle, that has been broken. It is often impossible to wire this or clamp it and so the best way to make a strong job is to HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 47 make a lap joint and put in a rivet of silver or other metal. File the work up bright and cover well with borax and some small bits of solder. Then fuse it together. By using borax two pieces of silver may be " sweated " together exactly the CHARCOAL Fig. 26. same as hard soldering without the solder, but this is hard to do and experience only will tell when it is desirable. Pickle Bath. The cold pickle described will do for most of the common metals, but for silver and gold a hot pickle is generally used. This is composed of one part of sulphuric or nitric acid 48 SIMPLE SOLDERING to ten parts of hot water and is usually kept at almost boiling point in a small stone crock which is placed in a bath of hot water (Fig. 27) on a gas stove near the blow pipe. The work is placed in this to " boil out," and should come out in a minute or so perfectly free from all dirt and oxide. Care should be taken lest it be left in too long or the acid will play havoc with the work, attacking the solder first. Great precaution should be taken in all hard soldering that no soft solder, lead or tin be near Fig. 27. to the work v/hen the copper is heated for hard soldering. This is particularly true of silver for the lead will eat holes clear through the w^ork and usually ruins it. If the work in hard sol- dering becomes all pitted you may rest assured there is lead present or that you are using an impure quality of solder, or the solder may have too much zinc added to it. Only such zinc as is contained in the brass should mix with the silver. There are many grades of silver solder made for special purposes, but these are of no use ex- HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 49 One cept to the experienced and to the trade, grade, however, is almost always used. It must also be remembered at all times to bind and clamp the work together firmly and to sup- port it well, for when it is hot the metal bends easily and may sag out of shape. So that special rouge-covered sheet-iron supports must be arranged, clamps made, and' binding wire freely used. Silver Work should never be put into pickle with iron binding wiring attached or picked out Fig. 28. from it with iron tongs as the acid acting with the iron will tend to put a heavy copper deposit on the work in spots. Brazing. A word as to heavy brazing perhaps would not be out of place, but this book is not intended as a text-book on this art since it is in a class by itself. 50 SIMPLE SOLDERING It is identically the same as hard soldering ex- cepting pure brass is used as a solder or " spelter." The work should be thoroughly filed and clamped or riveted together, then wet r(/ Fig. 29. powdered borax is plentifully applied and the grain spelter, little globules of brass as it comes for this purpose or bits of clean sheet brass may be used above the joint and well covered with the wetted borax. In some shops a powerful double gasoline HARD SOLDERING OR BRAZING 5 1 torch is used (Fig. 28). As the flames come from one given direction, bricks will have to be ar- ranged as reflectors to direct the heat v^here it is needed until the joint runs. If it is observed that there is not enough spelter to hold the v^ork or fill the joint, dry powdered borax may be thrown on the hot work and more spelter added or the joint touched with a long brass wire which melts instantly on it. If the weld is to be made in a charcoal fire or blacksmith forge care should be taken to build the fire up like the crater of a volcano so that a column of white flame shoots up onto the work which is embedded near the top of the fire (Fig. 29). A constant blast should be main- tained and the bellows worked evenly and slowly for sudden heating will heat the lower half of work too much. Care sl'.ould be taken that plenty of coke or charcoal is placed over the work to reflect the heat down. The work should be watched carefully and re- moved the instant it is brazed, and then quenched with cold water. CHAPTER V. Cleaning up Work. Polishing Soldered work frequently requires cleaning up and removing the surplus solder and flux with a scraper or an old file. Sometimes it is removed with an emery wheel, and ground quickly down to the original metal, leaving only sufiicient sol- der to hold the work safely. This can be done with the sharp steel scraping instrument (Fig. 3) after the work has been properly " pickled." A scraper of the hoe or plow type (Fig. 6) is used mostly for this work. Care should be taken that the original metals are not marred or deeply scored by the scrapers which will make ugly scratches that can be removed only by a great deal of work with small curved " riffle " files. Scraping Down. After scraping down to the bare metal the next step is to smooth the metal up to the original smooth surface and this is best done by taking a piece of '' Scotch Stone " (Fig. 30) about three-eighths of an inch square, and some six inches in length. Grind this to a blunt wedge that fits into the joint roughly. Rubbing back and forth with the stone moistened with water will quickly wear away the roughened metal to the required smoothness. 52 CLEANING UP WORK. POLISHING 53 Too much water should not be used but only enough to lubricate the stone. After this a " red" or rotten stone should be used in the same way to remove the scratches left by the Scotch stone. These stones are of great advantage in reach- ing points that may not be polished otherwise as they are easily ground to fit any work. An ordinary slate pencil will do very well if the Scotch stone is not at hand. In fact almost any soft blue stone will do, but the Scotch stone is l)est. Finishing. Pine sticks or orange wood, shaped like a lead pencil may be dipped into cutting down composition which is a mixture of emery and wax that comes ready for use. The work- ing end of the stick is to . be rubbed into this 54 SIMPLE SOLDERING mixture and when rubbed over the work will smooth it up still more. Still a hner finish may be given by pith sticks of elder and rouge composition and then perhaps rubbing with felt. Buff Sticks. What are known as " hand buf¥ " sticks are very useful in polishing; they consist of sticks or flat handles of wood with strips of leather and felt glued to them. These are simply charged with the cutting down compound and rouge compound and rubbed against the work. In large work after removing the surplus sol- der with a file or coarse emery wheel, either a finer emery wheel, or a carborundum wheel is used to remove the scratches left by the rougher wheel and then smoothing on a leather wheel of walrus-hide on which the cutting down com- position has been rubbed while it is revolving. A Final Polish is usually given by a cotton bufif wheel which is run at a high rate of speed. Such a wheel is made of layers of cotton cloth so that the centrifugal force flings the edges of the cloth disks against the metal with sufficient force to polish it. This is charged with the rouge composition. Files that are not to be used for any other work should be kept for filing away soft solder, which fills them up completely so that the teeth CLEANING UP WORK. POLISHING 55 will not bite. Coarse files may be cleaned, how- ever. Sometimes sticks of carborundum or emery are used in the hollows where the revolv- ing emery wheel may not go. Such work should then be finished up with the Scotch stone. Burnisher. Bright work may be burnished with a steel burnisher which is a smooth, highly Fig. 31. polished instrument set in a wooden handle (Fig. 31)- This is grasped firmly in the hand and the point of the tool worked about on the metal, until it smooths up. The body of the tool may be used as well as the edges. CHAPTER VI Standard Apparatus Since there are a number of ways to heat up the metals to the melting point of the different solders it is thought best to describe them al- together in one chapter so that the reader may choose those best suited to his needs and con- ditions. It should be remembered that it takes no particular kind of heat to melt the solders, ^GAS Fig. 32. but the several convenient forms of applying it are here described. Blow Pipe. The most commonly used tool for this is the blow-pipe (Figs. 32 and 33), which consists of two pipes, one to conduct the air un- der slight pressure and the other the gas. The gas and air mix near the end, forming a powerful blue flame free from soot of any kind. It may easily be controlled with the valves in the sepa- rate tubes (Fig. 32). 56 STANDARD APPARATUS 57 The air is supplied from a foot bellows, through a flexible rubber tube, or in large shops from a positive pressure blower. The idea being to get a large volume of air under low pressure. The highly compressed air used for power purposes Fig. 23. is seldom used unless with a special defusing arrangement. The Foot Bellows is very satisfactory and its action simple. It has a rubber disk reservoir which makes possible a steady blast. A slow steady pumping movement is better than a short " choppy " one since it accomplishes the work sooner. The gas pipe should be connected to the gas-main with a flexible tube; the other tube connects the bellows with the air pipe. 58 SIMPLE SOLDERING The gas should be turned on first and then a lighted matcli applied to the burner, then the bellows pumped fast enough to supply sufficient air pressure to produce a blue flame which is hottest at the tip of the inner blue cone. For general shop work a blow-pipe with tubes about f inch inside diameter is most useful. The craftsmen in the country may obtain a gasoline outfit which works practically the same ; Fig. 34. the only difference is that instead of attaching the blow pipe to the gas main it is attached to a small gasoline tank and the gasoline vapor used through a special blow pipe. A foot bel- lows supplies the air. Gasoline Torch. Next best to this is the gas- oline torch (Fig. 34). There are a number of these on the market and when good care is taken STANDARD APPARATUS 59 of them they work very well indeed. They are usually lighted by pouring a little alcohol or gasoline into cup A and heating burner B until upon turning handle C slightly a blue flame is produced at the end of B. Some forms have a pump attached to make a pressure which forces the gasoline up to the Fig. 35. burner. In this case the cup A is allowed to col- lect the drip, the handle C closed and A lighted. When after a time C is turned on again there should be a blue flame at the end of B. Great care should be used in handling these as some frightful accidents have happened from lighting them when not tightly stoppered. Alcohol Blow Torch. For small work an alco- 60 SIMPLE SOLDERING hol blow torch is frequently used. This consists of a thick wick enclosed in a brass fount filled with alcohol (Fig. 35). A small brass pipe is affixed to the side to which is attached a piece of flexible tube and mouthpiece. A current of air is blown through this pipe across the wick and forms a long slender flame and an extremely powerful one considering its size. Another more common form of blow pipe is a hollow brass tube, on one end of which is a Fig. z^' mouth-piece; the other end tapers down to a point having a pin hole in it. This is used across a fat alcohol or gas flame to direct a tiny pointed flame against very small work. It is often used but requires some little practice. Bunsen Burner. The bunsen flame is pro- duced by the bunsen burner, which mixes a natural draught of air with the gas and makes • a hot blue flame much used for direct heating. It is especially useful to suspend work over in STANDARD APPARATUS 6l soft or hard soldering. The air is admitted by the holes in the side of the pipe, and the gas comes in through a small opening. The hottest part is at the tip of the inner blue cone in flame. Charcoal is still used abroad to solder with. Some cf the most beautiful and the most dif- FiG. yj. ficult work has been done by this simple method. The live charcoal is held in a brazier (Fig. 36) or basket and the work carefully placed on the hot coals and the charcoal backed up above it. A pair of long nosed bellows is used to direct the flame where wanted most. 62 SIMPLE SOLDERING Soldering Iron Furnace. For the heating of soldering irons a gas-furnace may be used to ad- vantage or the common form of charcoal furnace (Fig. 37) made from sheet iron. The copper is placed at the bottom of the fire on the grate or the copper may be heated by a bunsen burner or even in a wood fire, never in a coal fire. CHAPTER VII Home Made Apparatus Bunsen Burner. A very simple way to make this useful article is to take a piece of f inch inside diameter brass tubing about 7 inches long. Bore two %6 inch holes in it about ij inches from the end. This is easily done by first drilling through both sides of the tube with a I inch drill, and then using a larger drill to follow this lead. Care should be taken not to tear the *C Fig. 38. metal with the large drill as it is only thin brass tubing. A good way to prevent this is to jam a round stick in and let it form an inside support for the tube while drilling. Now take a piece of f inch outside diameter brass tubing 3J inches in length. This must fit snugly into the larger tube for about i inch. Take an ordinary alum- inum gas tip and drill out the end to Yiq inch diameter and drive the tip firmly into the end of the smaller tube. (Fig. 38.) Attach this 63 64 SIMPLE SOLDERING to a gas tubing and slip the larger tube over the burner tip until this shows plainly through the air holes. Turn on the gas and light it. Then slide the larger tube up and down slightly until the best blue flame is obtained. This burner should give a flame about 8 inches in length easily. When the best mixture of air and gas is obtained, make a mark on both tubes as a position guide for soldering. Turn ofi. the gas and soft solder the tubes together. Fig. 39. If desired the tubes may easily be hard soldered by removing the aluminum tip. After hard sol- dering the two pipes together as previously marked, drop the aluminum tip down the larger pipe, guide the narrow end of tip into the smaller pipe and jam it firmly home with the aid of a small round stick inserted down the larger pipe. This bunsen burner is used at the end of a flexible rubber tube and is very useful in the metal shop. A Simple Blow Pipe. Get an old single gas bracket with stop cock attached and saw off the HOME MADE APPARATUS 6s top just below where the burner is connected. See Fig. 39. These brackets are made of brass tubing about f in. inside diameter. Take a piece of f in. inside diameter brass tubing about 12 inches long and bend it carefully so it may take Fig. 40. Fig. 41. the position of air pipe as indicated in Figs. 40 and 41. This may be easily done by filling the tube with melted resin ; then cooling and bending over a round block of wood, afterwards melting the resin out. Drill a hole at A to receive the end of this pipe, stopping it about J in. from the end of B. Solder this in with soft solder and then take a piece of stiff sheet brass or copper and make a brace by cutting a slit in the middle of each end and bending the little laps thus pro- 66 SIMPLE SOLDERING duced around each side of the tubing. Solder these as at C. Care should be taken to get the larger tube so that the air will be shot into the center of the flow of gas at D or else the flame may prove ragged and lopsided. The stop cock is an excellent means of control for the size of the flame. The air pressure may be regulated by the foot bellows. A small piece of pipe should be attached to the other end of the valve at E, Most gas connections are fitted to f in. gas pipe, which is f in. outside diameter and too large to fit conveniently on an ordinary gas tubing. This may be remedied by securing a f in. to i in. bushing from the pipe-fitter and screwing it into the valve, when a short piece of i in. pipe may easily be put into that. Some- times these small blow-pipes are used with a tube to the mouth instead of the foot bellows. A larger blow-pipe may be made of galvanized pipe and fittings, say ^ in. pipe. For this you will need one piece of pipe 12 inches long; one piece 4 inches long and one piece 2 inches, all of these to be threaded ; one ^ in. stop cock, gas or valve; one ^ in. T piece; one -J in. plug; one piece of J in. pipe, 16 inches long; one piece of J in. pipe, 6 inches long; one ^ in. elbow. First screw the 12-inch piece of {y in. pipe into the side connection of the T at A, Fig. 42 ; next the four- HOME MADE APPARATUS 67 inch piece at B ; now screw in the ^ in. plug at C and drill it out so that the shorter piece of J in. pipe will fit snugly through it. Then make a cleaner fit by filing. Screw the pieces of i in. pipe into the elbow of the same dimensions and Fig. 42. slip the smaller end through plug at C until it comes within about f in. of the end of ^ in. pipe D. Then slip on brace E, which is made of thick sheet brass or copper. This may be either soft or hard soldered into place as also may the joint at C, since the blow-pipe rarely gets hot enough to disturb soft solder if there is a current of air forced through it. The stop cock may now be attached. If desired one may also be put on the i in. air supply pipe. This will be found to give a very powerful flame. good Foot Bellows. A may be made as follows : pair of foot bellows From clear ^ in. pine 68 SIMPLE SOLDERING boards make up three end pieces of the shape shown in Fig. 43, by ghiing and cleating the boards together. It is best made of boards 6 inches wide and cut down to the measurements after the boards have been fitted together. Make joints air tight by careful work in fitting and gluing together. The cleats should not be over 1 in. in height. Two of the end pieces require a 2 in. hole drilled in their center as indicated in Fig. 43. A i in. hole may be drilled in the third end piece. Cut out two blocks of i in. planking 3J in. by 34 in. Bevel one side of the two larger blocks as shown in Fig. 44. Take a piece of thin soft leather and cut out two pieces 3J in. by 5 inches, lay these on a flat HOME MADE APPARATUS 69 surface, rough side uppermost and cover well with strong glue. Place one small and one large block on each piece of leather as indicated in Fig. 44, and put on top of the blocks a good heavy weight to make the leather adhere firmly to the Fig. 44. WEIGHT OUTLE LEATHER Fig. 45. blocks when the glue is dry. The smaller block A is secured to the boards with two screws, and B forms the cover for the inlet valve. Fig. 45 shows these two valve covers in position. Now attach the three boards together by 70 SIMPLE SOLDERING hinges i and 2 at the smaller end, Fig. 45 ; four hinges will be required, two for the top board to the center and two for the center board to the bottom board. These hinges are put inside, see Fig. 45- Place a heavy spring between boards A and B and secure firmly with staples (an old bed spring will do). Procure a large sheet of paper, upon which to make your pattern for the bellows leather. Pattern for Bellows Leather. Stand the bel- lows on its edge on the sheet of paper with the hinges on the left hand. This will give you the thickness of the bellows by the hinges, which is indicated by two pencil marks, one on each side of the boards. Open the bellows in front about 6 or 8 inches, hold bellows firmly with left hand and draw a pencil mark from left to right, first on one side and then on the other. Roll bellows forward slowly to the right on to the front edges marking the paper on both sides with the pencil until you have rolled the boards onto the oppo- site side edges and the back stands perpendicular but with the hinges to the right, being careful to keep the bellows open the same width all the time. This can be done by tacking a strip of wood across the front before proceeding to draw the pattern. The length of this rough diagram will be equivalent to the measurement from the back on HOME MADE APPARATUS 7 1 one side around the edge of the board to the corner on the other side. The width of the boards at the back must now be allowed for, in- cluding 2 inches for the lap, see Fig. 48. This will give a rough outline of the shape the leather Fig. 46. should be, see Fig. 46. The widest part of the drawing should be equivalent to the front part of the bellows fully extended, allowing enough leather to properly cover the edges of the out- FiG. 47. side boards. The narrowest end should be wide enough to cover the hinges and lap over. Cut this pattern out, lay the bellows on the table on its side and if the pattern has been marked correctly it should be sufficiently large to completely surround the bellows with about 2 inches lap at the hinges. 72 SIMPLE SOLDERING Place the pattern on the leather and proceed to cut out the leather, allowing a good margin all around ; this can be trimmed off after the leather has been nailed into position. The leather should be cut from' a soft pliable hide. Fold the leather in half long-ways and crease it with a hard flat instrument. This line should represent the center of the bellows or the central Fig. 48. board. Make two other creases each half long- ways. A flat iron could be used, pressed firmly backwards and forwards along the creased marks. The leather should be folded with the smooth surface outwards. If this has been prop- erly done when the leather is in place on the bellows it should have the appearance as shown in Fig. 50. Now coat the edges with a liberal supply of a good glue, and commence to nail on HOME MADE APPARATUS 73 the leather, commencing with one end at the back of the bellows, but be sure that the widest part of the leather comes squarely in the front, otherwise the bellows will be crooked when finished. Then tack the leather firmly on, using a strip of leather. Fig. 47> between the tack-head and the bellows leather to protect the latter. The Fig. 49. tacks should go about i in. apart and completely around the three end boards, Fig. 48, making an upper and lower air tight chamber. Do not smear up the leather with the glue except at joint, for this would tend to crack the leather. This operation will require some careful work. Let the small ends of the bellows leather lap over about 2 inches. Air Tight. Great care must be taken to make 74 SIMPLE SOLDERING the bellows all perfectly air-tight. Use leather cement to paste the ends of the leather together. Bellows Legs. Make the legs preferably of ij in. by ^ in. band iron, which may easily be bent in the vise cold. The foot pedal, which is attached by long screws to the centre board, will have to be made of heavier stock, ij in. by | in. Fig. so. thick. Take a piece of this band iron 12 inches long and drill a J in. hole in the center of it about 5 inches from one end. Then with a cold chisel split it along dotted line so as to make a 2-pronged piece, Fig. 49. These prongs should be bent at right angles to the flat piece as indi- cated by the dotted lines. This had best be done by heating in a blacksmith's forge, or fire, and HOME MADE APPARATUS 75 bending while red hot. Then bend the larger piece at right angles along the dotted line; flat- ten out the straight end a bit to make a good rest for the foot. Attach the legs firmly to the bottom board and the foot piece to the end of Fig. 51. the middle board. This makes a powerful and lasting bellows. Fig. 50. The Author has used one of these bellows con- stantly for five years and it has never had to be repaired as the bought ones do. A heavy iron weight on top of this bellows will give more force to the blast, but the bellows take some 76 SIMPLE SOLDERING time to make and if time is precious it is better to use the bought ones. A Soldering Box may be made as follows : take a small solid packing box and knock out the top and two sides. This would leave the bottom with two sides standing as illustrated in Fig. 51. Now cover over the bottom with tin as well as the inside of the sides and edges. Then cover over the tin with heavy asbestos. One or two old fire bricks are useful to lay the work on so as to save the asbestos from too much over-heating. A Very Simple Soldering Iron, Fig. 52, may be Fig. 52. made by taking a piece of f in. copper rod about 3 inches long, filing or forging it down to a taper- ing square pyramidal point, drilling a J in. hole about f in. from one end, running a wire through this hole, squeezing it into the copper rod be- tween the vise jaws and then twisting the wire so as to form a handle. No. 1. Price, 25 cts. THE Study or Blegtrigity FOR BBQINNERS. Comprising the Elements of Electricity and Magnetism as Applied to Dynamos, Motors, Wiring, and to all Branches of Electrical Work. BY NORMAN H, SCHNEIDER. With Fifty=four Original Illustrations and Six Tables. V!^ w:?^;^"''^' 25c. BOOKS. ELECTRICITY. The study of, and its laws for beginners, com- prising the laws of electric current generation and flow. Ohm's law, galvanism, magnetism, induction, principles of dynamos and motors, wiring, with explanations of simple mathematics as applied to elec- trical calculations. By N. H. Schneider. With 55 original illustra- tions and 6 tables. DRY BATTERIES. A practical handbook on the designing, fil- ling and finishing of dry batteries, with tables, for automobiles, gas engine, medical and coil work, electric bells, alarms, telephones, ex- periments and all purposes requiring a first-rate battery. Fully il- lustrated with 30 original drawings. ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS AND DIAGRAMS. Being a selec- tion of original up-to-date and practical diagrams for installing an- nunciators, alarms, bells, electric gas lighting, telephones, electric power light p,nd wnrmg circuits, induction coils, gas engine igniters, dynamos and motors, armature windings. By N. H. Schneider. ELECTRIC BELLS AND ALARMS. How to install them. By N. H. Schneider. Including batteries, wire and wirmg, circuits, pushes, bells, burglar alarms, high and low water alarms, fire alarms, thermostats, annnuciators, and the locating and remedying of faults. With 56 original diagrams. MODERN PRIMARY BATTERIES. Their construction, use and maintenance, including batteries for telephones, telegraphs, motors, electric lights, induction coils, and for all experimental work. By N. H. Schneider. 94 pages, 55 illustrations. The best and latest American book on the subject. EXPERIMENTING WITH INDUCTION COILS. H. S. Norrik, author of "Induction Coils and Coil Making." A most instructive little book, full of practical and interesting experiments, fully ex- plained in plain language with numerous hints and suggestions for evening entertainments. Arranged under the following headings: Introduction ; The Handling of Ruhmkorff Coil ; Experiments with Sparks; Effects in the Vacuum; Induction and Wireless Telegraphy. With 36 original illustrations. [In the press] SMALL ACCUMULATORS. How made and used, by P. Mar- shall. Giving full descriptions how to make all the parts, assemble them, charge the cells and run them, with examples of their practi- cal application. Useful receipts and memoranda and a glossary of technical terms. 80 pages, 40 illustrations, paper. ELECTRIC GAS LIGHTING. How to install Electric gas ignit- ing apparatus including the jump spark and multiple systems for all purposes. Also the care and selection of suitable batteries, wiring and repairs, by H. S. Norrie. ioi pages, 57 illustrations, paper No. 2. Price,, 25 cts. DRY BATTERIBS, BSPEGIALLY ADAPTED FOR Automobile, Launch and Gas Engine Work; Medical Coils, Bells, Annunciators, Burglar Alarms, Telephones, Electrical Experiments and all purposes requiring a Good Battery. WITH THIRTY ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATION^. J 25c. BOOKS. MAKING WIRELESS OUTFITS. By Newton Harrison, E.E. A concise and simple explanation on the construction and use of simple and inexpensive wireless equipments, for sending and re- ceiving up to 100 miles, giving full details and drawings of apparatus, diagrams of circuits and tables. Including the Morse and Con- tinental Codes. 61 pages, 27 illustrations. CIRCUITS AND DIAGRAMS. Part 2. By Norman H. Schneider. Alternating Current Generators and Motors: Single Phase and Polyphase Transformers : Alternating Current and Direct Current Motor Starters and Reversers: Arc Generators and Cir- cuits: Switch- Wiring: Storage Battery: Meter Connections : etc. etc. 69 original drawings, with full explanations. ALTERNATING CURRENTS SIMPLY EXPLAINED. An Ele- mentary Handbook on Alternating Current Generators, Trans- formers, and Motors. By Alfred W. Marshall. This book is written for those who desire elementary information about Alter- nating electric currents, simply written and yet intensely interest- ing. Contents of Chapters: — 1. What an Alternating Current is. 2. How Alternating Currents are Produced. 3. How Alternating Currents are Measured. 4. Transformers and Choking Coils. 5. Alternating Current Motors. 6. Rotary Converters. 7. Rectifiers. 82 pages, 32 illustrations. INDUCTION COILS. How to Make and Use Them, by P. Marshall. New edition revised and enlarged by K. Stoye. A practical handbook on the construction and use of medical and sparking coils for wireless telegraphy, gas engines, automobiles, gas lighting, X-rays, and all other purposes. With complete tables of windings for coils giving J in. spark up to 12 in. sparks. With full description for the construction of mercury interrupters. 76 pages, 35 illustrations. SIMPLE EXPERIMENTS IN STATIC ELECTRICITY. By P. C. Bull, M.A. Contents of Chapters: — 1. Production of electricity by various means. Viz. : friction, heat, pressure, chemical action, etc. 2. Electrical attraction, repulsion, and distribution. 3. Induction. 4. Leyden jars and other condensers. 5. Mechanical, chemical and heating effects. 6. Luminous effects. 7. Miscel- laneous experiments. Being a series of instructive and entertaining electrical experiments. 72 pages, 51 illustrations. THE MAGNETO TELEPHONE. Its construction, fitting up and use, by Norman Hughes. Giving full particulars for planning out a short line, putting up the insulators, stringing wires, con- necting instruments, suitable batteries. 80 pages, 23 illustrations. PRACTICAL ELECTRICS. A universal handy book on everyday electrical matters, including connections, alarms, batteries, bells, carbons, induction and resistance coils, dynamos, measuring, micro- phones, motors, telephones, phonographs, photophones, etc. 135 pages, 126 illustrations. Ezscs::^Baaaa< No. 3. Part I. Price, 25 cts. ELECTRICAL Circuits and ILLUSTRATED AND EXPLAINED. New and Original Drawings, comprising Alarms, Annunciators, Automobiles, Bells, Dynamos, Gas Lighting, Motors, Storage Batteries, Street Railways, Telephone, Telegraph, Wireless Telegraphy, Wiring and Testing. BY NORMAN H. SCHNEIDER, 25c. BOOKS. WIRELESS TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION. By Newton Harrison. A comprehensive explanation of the making of a Wireless Telephone Equipment. Both the transmitting and re- ceiving stations fully explained with details of construction suffi- cient to give an intelligent reader a good start in building a Wireless Telephone system and in operating it. 74 pages and 43 illustrations. THE WIMSHURST MACHINE. HOV/ TO MAKE AND USE IT. A practical handbook on the construction and working of Wimshurst machines, including radiography and wireless telegraphy and other static electrical apparatus. By A. W. Marshall. Second edition, revised and enlarged. Containing a number of sectional drawings and details to scale. 112 pages, fully illustrated. SMALL ELECTRICAL MEASURING INSTRUMENTS. How to Make and Use Them. By Percival Marshall. Contents of Chapters: — 1. Instruments for testing the presecne of an electric current, detectors, galvanometers. 2. Instruments for measuring the pressure or quantity of an electric current, amperemeters; voltmeters. 3. Instruments for measuring electrical resistance, wheatstone bridge. 4. Instruments for measuring static elec- tricity. 5. Practical details for construction. 6. The principles upon which electrical measuring instruments work. 7. How to use electrical measuring instruments. 8. How to choose electrical measuring instruments. 90 pages, 59 illustrations. INVENTIONS. How to Protect, Sell and Buy Them. By Frederic B. Wright. Counsellor in Patent Causes. This book is especially written for the use of Inventors, instructing them how to place their inventions before an Attorney clearly; the rights given them under the Law, Patent specifications. Legal forms, and the many points necessary for an Inventor to know to protect himself under the American Laws. The most practical and clearly written American book on this subject, especially intended for the un- initiated. 114 pages, and 1 sample pattern drawing. UNIVERSAL TIME CARD MODEL. By setting to the desired hour at any one place the movable model will show at a glance the actual time of all the other places in the world. Printed on stiff card in two colors, size 7 in. by 9 in. HOW TO BUILD A 20 FT. BIPLANE GLIDING MACHINE, that will carry a man. By A. P. Morgan. A practical handbook on its construction and management. Enabling an intelligent reader to make his first step in the field of aviation with a compre- hensive understanding of some of the principles involved. Fully illustrated with detailed drawings. No. 4. Price, 25 cts. HOW TO INSTALL Blbgtrw Bells, ANNUNemroRS, nND Alarms. INCLUDING Batteries, Wires and Wiring, Circuits, Pushes, Bells, Burglar Alarms, High and Low Water Alarms, Fire Alarms, Thermostats, Annunciators, and the Location and Remedying of Troubles. By NORMAN H. SCHNEIDER. 25c. BOOKS. SMALL DYNAMOS ANB MOTORS. How to make and use them. A practical handbook, by F. E. Powell. Contents of Chapters: — 1. General Considerations. 2. Field Magnets. 3. Armatures. 4. Commutators and Other Details. 5. Tables of Windings. 6. How to Build a Small Machine. 7. Useful Data. 8. Testing and Repairing. 76 pages, fully illustrated with detail drawings. SMALL ELECTRIC MOTORS. How to make and use them. By F. E. Powell. Contents of Chapters: — 1. Some points in the design of electric motors. 2. Examples of small motors to be worked by battery power. 3. A Model four-pole electro motor. 4. Motors for use on electric lighting circuits. 5. Applications of small motors and the power required for certain work. 6. Start- ing and speed controlling switches; fuses. 7. Reversing switches for Model motor; gearing, with tables of windings. 75 pages, 48 illustrations. ' * ■ ELECTRIC BELLS AND ALARMS. A practical handbook on their construction, installation and repair. By F. E. Powell. 77 pages, 51 illustrations. ELECTRIC BATTERIES. How to make and use them. Prac- tically describing the common forms of primary batteries. By Percival Marshall. 63 pages, 34 illustrations. TELEPHONES AND MICROPHONES. A practical handbook on their construction and use. By Percival Marshall. In- cluding testing, faults and their remedies. 80 pages, 33 illustrations. SIMPLE ELECTRICAL WORKING MODELS. By Percival Marshall. Showing the construction of electrical toys and novelties, easily constructed with a few tools from simple materials. 69 pages, 43 illustrations. X-RAYS SIMPLY EXPLAINED. A handbook on the theory and practice of Radio-telegraphy. By R. P. Howgrave-Graham. A most instructive and interesting work. 93 pages, profusely illustrated. ELECTRIC LIGHTING FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Guide to the installation of light on a small scale, describing the construc- tion of lamps, lamp-holders, switches, batteries, etc., etc. By Percival Marshall. 80 pages, 45 illustrations. ELECTRICAL APPARATUS SIMPLY EXPLAINED. A first-rate little book describing the principles and working of some of the electrical appliances in general use. 80 pages, 35 illustrations. SIMPLE SCIENTIFIC EXPERIMENTS. How to perform en- tertaining and instructive experiments with simple home-made apparatus with 59 illustrations. No. 5. Price, 25 cts. MODERN Primary Batteries. THEIR CONSTRUCTION, USB AND MAINTENANCE. Including Batteries for Telephones, Telegraphs, Motors, Electric Lights, Induction Coils, and for all Experimental Work. BY NORMAN H. SCHNEIDER. mm w% am No. 6. Price, 25 cts. EXPERIMENTING WITH Induction Coils. Containing practical directions for operating Induction Coils and Tesla Coils ; also showing how to make the apparatus needed for the numerous experiments described. BY H. S. NORRIE, Author of " Induction Coils and Coil Making.^* Fully Illustrated with Original Drawings. THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 7 Price, 25 cts. Electric Gas Igniting APPARATUS How to Install Electric Gas Igniting Apparatus, including the Jump Spark and Multiple Systems for all purposes, with Suitable Batteries and Wiring, BY H. S. NORRIE. Author of ** Induction Coils and Coi\ Making/' THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 8 Price, 25 cts. SMALL ACCUMULATORS. How to Make, Charge and Use Them, with Glossary of Technical Terms, Useful Receipts and Memoranda. BY PERCIVAL MARSHALL, A. L Mech. E. Revised and Enlarged Edition^ IliiiiillsllliSlI No. 9 Price 2.5 Cts. nODEL STEAM ENGINE DESIGN A HANDBOOK FOR THE DESIGNER OF SMALL STEAM ELNGINES. By R. M. deVIGNIER. InclucTing original tables and calculations for speed, po-wer, proportions of pumps, compound engines and valve diagrpims. THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 10 Price 25 Cents Practical Electrics A Universal Handy BooK ON ELEICTRIC BEILLS. BATTERIES. ACCUMULATORS. DYNAMOS. MOTORS. INDUCTION AND INTE^NSITY COILS, TELEPHONES. MICROPHONES. PHONOCRAPHS. PHOTOFHONES. ETC. THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 12 Price, 25cts. Woodwork Joints HOW TO MAKE AND WHERE TO USE THEM. CONTAINING Full instructions for making Mortise and Tenon, Lap,. Dovetail, Scarfing, and Glue Joints, with a Chapter on Circular Woodwork. New Edition Enlarged, with 178 Illustrations. 25c BOOKS. WOODWORK JOINTS. How to make and where to use them. A new revised and enlarged edition. Contents of Chapters: 1. Mortise and tenon joints. 2. Lap joints. 3. Dove-tail joints. 4. " Glue "- joints. 5. Scarfing joints and joints for lengthening timb^s. 6. Circular work, showing how to make joined woodwork frames in the form of ovals and circles. The work describes clearly the construction of the principle joints used in carpentry and joinery, and shows not only how to set them out, but indicates for what purpose they are best suited. 101 pages, 178 illustrations. THE LOCOMOTIVE, simply explained. By Chas. S. Lake. A first introduction to the study of the locomotive engine, their designs, construction and erection, with a short catechism in the form of questions and answers, 72 pages, 26 illustrations. STANDARD SCREW THREADS AND TWIST DRILLS. A Guide to. By George Gentry. The tables given are for small sizes of the following makers: — Whitworth Standard; British association standard; bicycle screw threads; cycle standard; V Standard and U. S. Standard forms; International standard thread, metric system; " Progress'! metric system of screv.s for watches; 77 pages, 6 illustrations. SIMPLE CHEMICAL EXPERIMENTS. A series of instructive experiments in inorganic chemistry. By T. T, Baker. Contents of Chapters: — 1. How to fit up and equip a small chemical labora- tory. 2. How to fit up apparatus. 3. Elements and compounds. 4. Preparation of Chlorine, Ammonia, hydrochloric acid, etc. 5. Combustion. 6. How to make oxygen; hydrogen; ozone; etc. 7. Preparation of metallic salts. 8. Sulphur. 9. The atmosphere. 10. Making Chemicals. 72 pages, 19 illustrations, THE MODEL VAUDEVILLE THEATRE. By Norman H. Schneider. Describing the construction of a model theatre and the making of numerous devices to be used with it. With suggestions for various novelties for an evenings' entertainment, including chapters on shadowgraphs, the use of a polyopticon, lighting effects, wave effects, storms, etc. etc. One of these small theatres can be made very easily and at small expense and will afford many hours of amusement not only to the young but also to the grown-up, as there is no limit to the scope of the entertainments that can be produced thereon, fully illustrated. SIMPLE SOLDERING BOTH HARD AND SOFT. Together with a description of inexpensive home-made apparatus. By Edwarij Thatcher, Instructor of Manual Training, Teachers' College, Col- umbia University, (in the press). THE MODEL LIBRARY ^'^^^ 2 5 Cents No. 11 INVENTIONS HOW TO Protect, Sell and Buy Them A PRACTICAL AND UP-TO-DATE GUIDE FOR INVENTORS AND PATENTEES BY FREDERIC B. WRIGHT Attorney -at- Law y Counsellor in Patent Causes 25c. BOOKS. THE SLIDE VALVE SIMPLY EXPLAINED. A practical treatise for locomotive engineers by W. J. Tennant, revised and enlarged by J. H. KiNEALY. Contents of Chapters: — Introduction. 1. The simple slide. 2, The eccentric, a crank. Special model to give quantitative results. 3. Advance of the eccentric. 4. Dead center. Order of cranks. Cushioning and lead. 5. Expansion — lap and lead; advance, compression. 6. Double ported and piston valves. 7. The effect of alterations to valve, and eccentric. 8. Notes on link motions. 9. Cut-offs, reversing gears, etc. 89 pages, 41 illustrations, MANAGEMENT OF BOILERS. The Fireman's Guide. A Handbook on the Care of boilers. By K. P. Dahlstrom. Espec- ially written in plain English for the use of beginners and firemen. Contents of Chapters: — Introduction. 1, Firing and Economy of fuel. 2. Feed and Water-line. 3. Low water and foaming or priming. 4. Steam-pressure. 5. Cleaning and Blowing out. 6. General directions. Summary of rules. INJECTORS. THEIR CONSTRUCTION, CARE AND MANAGE- MENT. By Frederick Keppy. Second edition. The best and most practical treatise on this subject as it is written by a practical engineer for the instruction of engineers. 69 pages, 45 illustrations, price 25c. REFRIGERATION AND ICE-MAKING. By W. H. Wakeman. Fourth edition. Consisting of practical notes and information for engineers. 43 pages, tables and illustrations, price 25c. STEAM TURBINES. How to design and build them. By H. H. Harrison. A practical handbook for model makers. Con- tents of Chapters. 1. General Consideration. 2. Pressure De- veloped by an Impinging Jet ; Velocity and Flow of Steam Through Orifices. 3. Method of Designing a Steam Turbine. 4, Com- plete Designs for DeLaval Steam Turbines; Method of Making Vanes; Shrouding, 5. The Theory of Multiple Stage Turbines. With detail drawings and tables. 85 pages, 74 illustrations. MODEL BOILER MAKING. A practical handbook on the de- signing, Making and Testing of small Steam Boilers. By E. L. Pearce. Contents of Chapters: — 1. General principles of boiler design, materials, shape, proportions, strength, capacity, heating surface. 2. Stationery boilers, 3. Launch boilers. 4. Locomo- tive boilers. 5, Setting out plates, spacing tubes, etc. 6. Boiler fittings. 7. Fuel, lamps, fire-grates. 86 pages, 35 illustrations. GAS AND OIL ENGINES SIMPLY EXPLAINED. A practical handbook for Engine attendants. By W. C. Runciman. Contents of Chapters: — Preface. 1. Introductory. 2. The component parts of an engine. 3. How a gas engine works, 4. Ignition devices. 5. Magneto ignition. 6. Governing. 7. Cams and valve settings. 8. Oil Engines. 88 pages, 51 illustrations. THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 13 PRICE 25 CTS. THE FIREMAN'S GUIDE AND HANDBOOK ON THE CARE OF BOILERS BY KARL P. DAHLSTROM, M. E. INJECTORS CONSTRUCTION, CARE AND MANAGEMENT. Useful Information on thb Principals of their Construction, Use and Practical Operation as Steam Boiler Feeders and Othbr Purposes Intended for the Use of Engineers, Firemen and SxEAkt Users.— By FREDERICK KEPPY, M. E. 84 Pages, 6 s 9 Ins. 45 Engravings and 16 Tables. Price 25 Cts. PREFACE. Many books have been written on the rnjector. It would have been better for the engineer it' some of them had never seen the light of day. My pur- pose has been to point out to the Every Day Engineer. common sense information on the Construction, Care and Management of Injectors, and trust my efforts will prove beneficial to my fellow engineers. CONTENTS; Chap. I. Henri Jacques Giffard, Inven- tor of the injector; Original of Giffard Injector. CHAP. II. Principle of the Injector; Theory of Injector; De- scription of Important Parts; Forcing Steam Tube, Com- bming Tube; Delivery Tube; Technical Terms; Steam Tube; Combining Tube; Delivery Tube; Draft; Over^ flow; Maximum and Minimum Capacity; Range; Over- fiowmg Temperature; Overflowing Pressure; Breaking- Temperature; Breaking Pressure; Efficiency; VARIOUS Forms of Injectors- single Tubes; Double Tubes; Adjustable Tubes; Self Adjusting Tubes; Fixed Tubes; Open Overilow; Closed Overflow; Exhaust; Restart- ing; Automatic; Lifting; Non-lifting. ChAP. III. MOD-- ERN Standard Injectors. Sellers Restarting; Sellers Self-Acting; Powell Automatic; Penberthy Automatic; Penberthy Automatic — Positive; Manhattan; Schaeffer & Budenberg Exhaust; Lee Ball Valve Automatic; Lunken- heimer Automatic; Lunkenheimer Standard; Peerless; Penberthy — with Boiler Purger Connection; Eynon-Kort- ing Compound: Eynon-Evans Ejector; Garfield Auto- matic; Ohio Automatic; Garfield Double Jet; Garfield Locomotive; Fairbanks; Chief Automatic; Chief Auto- matic with Connections; Hancock Inspirator "Station- ary;" Hancock Inspirator, Type A; Metropolitan Au- tomatic with Sliding Steam Jet; Metropolitan Double- Tube; Metropolitan "1898."^^ Chap. IV. Improved Ejectors or Syphons and Their Application. Hay- den & Derby Ejector; Application of the Ejector for Var- ious Purposes; Drive Well Ejector; Injector and Ejector Appliances; StriHtiers; Overflow Funnel; Noiseless Water Heater. Chap, V. Use and Abuse of Injectors. Care and Management of Injectors; Connecting Injec- tors; Valves; Steam Pipe; Suction Pipe* Delivery Pipe; Regulating; Water Pressure; Hot vVater Delivered ; Economy; Temperature; Steam Loss; Chap. VI, INJEC- TOR Troubles, how to Find Them. Why Injectors Fail to Work; Injector Gets Water But Does Not Force It to the Boiler; Injector Starts, but " Breaks-" Test for Leaks; Cause of Injector not Showing a Full Capacity; Test Capacity; Advantages of Drip-Cock; Selectmg In- iector; Size of Injector Required; Rated H. P. of Boilev; {.ules; Repairs; Repair Parts. THE MODEL LIBRARY No, 14 Price 25 Cents THE SLIDE VALVE Simply Explained A Practical Treatise for Locomotive Engineers AND Students of the Steam Engine By W. J. TENNANT, Asso. M. L M. E., and J. H. KINEALY, M. E. Revised and Considerably Enlarged Including a Number of New Illustrations REFRIGERATION and ICE MAKING and REFRIGERATING MACHINERY. A Practical Treatise on the Construction, Operation and the Care and Management of Refrig- erating Machinery. »V W. M. WAKEMAIMrf PAMPHLET, 48 PAGES, SIZE 6x9 INCHES. Illustrated by 17 Engravings. PRICE 2S CEtSJ-rS, F=>OSXPAID. CONTENTS. Chapter I. Introduction; Purifying Water; The Can and Plate System; Separating Air from Water; The Block and Dry Plate System. Chapter II. Ice Making; Horizontal and Vertical Com- pressors; The Steam Cutter; The Absorption System. Chapter III. A Small Ice Making Machine; Piping Cold Storage Rooms; The Brine System. Chapter IV. Compressors; Verticle; Low Type; Single Acting; Directions for Operating Refrigerating Plants; Testmg a Plant for Leaks; How to Charge a New Com- pressor System with Ammonia. Chapter V. To Start the Compressor; The Proper way to Proceed with the Steam End of It, Causes of Leaky Stuffing Boxes on vSingle Acting Cylinder; Suggestion.^ for Proper Care of Refrigerating Machines. Chapter VI. Rules and Regulations. Chapter VII. Tables Showing Approximate Cost of Operating Ice Factories; Table ot" Specific Gravity; Table of Standard Dimensions of Piping for Refrigerating Plants; Properties of Ammonia; Table of Pressure .n Pounds per square inch of Ammonia Gas; Table of Com- prin sons of Thermometer Scales; The Standardization of Thermometers. No. 17. Price 25 Cents 3 Wireless Outfits A CONCISE AND SIMPLE EXPLANATION ON THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF INEXPENSIVE WIRELESS EQUIPMENTS UP TO 100 MILES By NEWTON HARRISON, E. E. The MODEL LIBRARY No. 18. Price 26 Cents Wireless Telephone Construction A Comprehensive Explanation of the Making of a Wireless Telephone Equipment for Receiving and Sending Stations with Details of Construction BY NEWTON HARRISON, E. E. With 43 Original Illustrations -^SQQu — ' fe\ i \j TRANSMITTING STATION n hi D RECElViNJQ SXXSMSA^ ™^ Price, 25 cts. MODEL LIBRARY The WIMSHURST MACHINE HOW TO MAKE AND USE IT A Practical Handbook on the Construction and Working of the Wimshurst Machine and other Static Electrical Apparatus FULLY ILLUSTRATED ■* • ^' ^ m *^^ ^^^■-^H 25c. BOOKS. THE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO THE LATHE. An elementary instruction book on turning in wood and metal. By Percival Marshall. Specially written in plain language for the beginner and as an elementary text-book for manual training schools. Con- tents of Chapters: — 1, The lathe and its parts. 2. Method of holding and driving work. 3. Turning in wood. 4. Turning in metal. 5. The SHde-Rest. 6. Drilling and boring in the lathe. 76 pages, 75 illustrations. MECHANICAL DRAWING SIMPLY EXPLAINED. By F. E. Powell. The threefold object of this book is to show how draw- ings are made, how to read other peoples' drawings, and how to make practical working drawings. Contents of Chapters: — 1. Introduction. 2. The use and care of drawing instruments. 3. On " reading " and setting out drawings. 4. Inking-in and finish- ing drawings. 5. On drawing for reproduction. 78 pages, 44 illustrations. MODEL STEAMER BUILDING. By Percival Marshall. A practical handbook on the design and construction of model steamer hulls, deck-fittings, and other details, including a model torpedo boat destroyer, and a side-wheel passenger steamer. With laying- off tables, 64 pages, 39 illustrations. MACHINERY FOR MODEL STEAMERS. By Percival Mar- shall. A practical handbook on the design and construction of engines and boilers for model steamers, single and double cylinder engines, side wheel engines. The use of liquid, fuel, and the pro- portions of machinery for model boats. 64 pages, 44 illustrations. SIMPLE MECHANICAL WORKING MODELS. How to make and use them. By Percival Marshall. How to make the following: Water and wind motors; hot-air engines; steam en- gine and pump; slide valve launch engine; model steam boats; working locomotive in cardboard, model gravitation railway, etc. 64 pages, 34 illustrations. MODEL STEAM ENGINES. How to Understand Them and How to Run Them. By H. Greenly. Including examples of stationary locomotive, portable and marine engines. With different kinds of boilers and methods of getting up steam, as well as engine de- tails and valve mechanisms, etc. 87 pages and 55 illustrations. MODEL STEAM ENGINE DESIGN. A handbook for the De- signer of small Model Steam Engines, including original tables and calculations for speed, power, proportions of pumps, compound engines, and valve diagrp.ms. By Robert M. de Vignier. Con- tents of Chapters: 1. Various Types. Speed of Model Engines. 2. Power Calculations. Materials. 3. Feed Pumps. 4. Com- pound Engines. 5. The Valve Diagram. 6. Engine Layout. Pat- terns. 102 pages, 34 illustrations. THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 20 Price 2 5 Cents Simple Experiments in static Electricity A Series of Instructive and Entertaini7ig Electrical Experiments for Students and Amateurs BY PERCIVAL G. BULL, M.A. Oxon. FULLY ILLUSTRATED THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 21 PRICE 25 CTS. Electrical Measuring Instruments A Practical Handbook describifig the making and using of Galvanometers, Voltmeters , Amperemeters , Wkeatstone Bridges, and other Instruments for detecting and measuriiig Electrical Currejits. FULLY ILLUSTRATED THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 23 Price ^5 cts. INDUCTION COILS HOW TO MAKE AND USE THEM With full particulars, tables of windings and illustrations showing the construction of Coils giving sparks from one-half inch to twelve inches, including COILS FOR AUTOMOBILES AND GAS ENGINES. New edition thoroughly revised and enlarged by KURT STOYE, Instructor Baron de Hirsh Trade School, New York. THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 25 Price 25 Cents. Alternating Currents SIMPLY EXPLAINED An Elementary Handbook on Alternating Current Generators Transformers and Motors By a. W, MARSHALL THE MODEL LIBRARY No. 26. Price 25 Cts. How To Build BI-PLANE GLIDER A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK ON ITS CONSTRUCTION AND USE BY ALFRED POWELL MORGAN IVit/i Full Detail Drawings ]l)l 5 ^^^0 One copy del. to Cat. Div. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS