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FROM CLIME TO CLIME 
 
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 WHY AND HOW I JOURNEYED 21,630 MILES 
 
 BY 
 
 SAMUEL MURRAY. 
 
 New York 
 CHAS. P. YOUNG CO., Book and Job Printers 
 
 98 John Street. [Tel., 1275 John] 
 

 u 
 
 IVIAK 3 I9U5 
 
 COPY B. 
 
 Copyrighted, 1905 
 
 BY 
 
 SAMUEL MURRAY 
 
To THE Reader: 
 
 Only through the insistent entreaties * 
 from admirers of the author's success- 
 ful undertaking has the tale of his re- 
 markable journey found its way into 
 hook form. 
 
 Mr. Murray had no thought of put- 
 ting into type his observations. How- 
 ever, having completed what he set out 
 to accomplish, and while relating to 
 acquaintances brief accounts of some 
 of the marvelous things he had seen, 
 he was prevailed upon to write, in his 
 own way, the narrative of his travels, 
 which he has done entirely from 
 memory, not having taken any notes 
 as he went from place to place. 
 
 A Friend. 
 
FROM CLIME TO CLIMK 
 
 HTLANTA, New Orleans, Houston, San 
 Antonio, El Paso, Los Angeles, San Fran- 
 cisco, and all points West! California 
 Express! All aboard!" 
 The above announcement was made in 
 the Pennsylvania depot at Washington, 
 D. C, on February 20, 1903, at 9 o'clock P. M., and 
 was in no respect different from that announced three 
 times each week, as the California Express, for a limited 
 time, left Washington over the Southern Railway to 
 New Orleans, and from there over the Southern Pacific 
 Railroad to Pacific Coast points. 
 
 But on this particular evening I was among the ex- 
 press' passengers, and it marked the initial start of a 
 year and a half's trip I had set out to make through North 
 America. My first stop was to be Los Angeles, Cal. 
 
 From a workingman's viewpoint a trip of this charac- 
 ter was something new, for I had resolved to travel "on 
 cushions" all the way, instead of in the manner by which 
 "knights of freedom" flit from clime to clime — via freight 
 trains, stealing rides on baggage cars, and walking part 
 of the way, the latter mode generally not of their choice. 
 It had occurred to me it was possible to hedge the 
 borders of North , America with money which I could 
 earn by working at my trade as I went from place to 
 place. I am a printer and linotype operator. 
 
 My proposed trip was more or less suggested by the 
 advanced state of the printing trade, brought about by 
 the linotype machine, the many improvements in presses, 
 and other innovations scarcely heard of a decade ago. 
 
Generally, a printer can travel from city to city with 
 little fear of securing enough work to make both ends 
 meet. I had no doubt but that I could make expenses, 
 but, as I had always a yearning to see Nature's best in 
 its varied forms, I purposed gratifying this desire with 
 the surplus money I would be able to save after meeting 
 my usual daily requirements. 
 
 My itinerary included the principal cities and the most 
 noted places of interest to be found in North America — 
 Yosemite Valley, Yellowstone National Park, most of the 
 scenery about Colorado Springs, Royal Gorge, Grand 
 Canyon of Arizona, Mexico, the World's Fair, Mam- 
 moth Cave, Niagara Falls and the Thousand Islands. 
 
 To most people it would seem that only a person of 
 means could successfully carry out a tour of this kind. 
 I felt sure, however, it could be done, but in only one 
 way — through perseverance, denying myself the usual 
 little luxuries which make inroads on one's purse, prac- 
 ticing hard-pan economy in other ways, and using the 
 money thus saved to accomplish what might at first seem 
 an impossible task. 
 
 From the brief sketches I had read of these famous and 
 marvelous points of interest, I felt I would be well repaid 
 for my temporary economy by the knowledge I would 
 gather and the pleasure I would derive from visiting 
 them; and, even if I would suffer some inconveniences, 
 my ultimate gain would be far in excess of any priva- 
 tions I might be forced to undergo. 
 
 Many and many a lonely hour I spent, denying myself 
 the companionship of my fellowmen, in order to prevent 
 the slipping away of money which generally occurs 
 through association. I deemed this an important factor 
 toward a successful termination of the task I had set for 
 myself. 
 
 It was Friday evening, February 20, 1903, when I 
 left Washington, D. C, and, in order to fulfill my under- 
 
taking in the time set, I should reach the same city on 
 Friday, August 19, 1904. 
 
 I had estimated I would have to travel 21,000 miles to 
 cover the territory I had laid out, and felt quite certain a 
 trip of this nature had not previously been attempted by 
 any one in a similar manner. 
 
 . If "a poor start means a good ending," I had all the 
 assurance of finishing on time one could wish for, as the 
 train left the depot an hour late, and was held in the 
 railroad yards on the Virginia side of the Potomac River 
 by congested traffic several hours during the night. I 
 expected when I awoke in the morning to find myself at 
 the North Carolina border. Instead, however, we had 
 traveled only a little further than half way across Vir- 
 ginia. 
 
 Now, if this was to be a sample of some of the ob- 
 stacles with which I would have to contend during my 
 journey, it certainly looked as if I had "bitten off more 
 than I could chew." 
 
 From the car window while passing through North 
 Carolina I observed the poorest section of country 
 through which I had ever passed or been in, where farm- 
 ing is attempted as a means of livelihood. The land con- 
 sists of red clay, and, in order to hold what substance 
 still remains, a system of terraces is resorted to, remind- 
 ing one, if the illustration would be permitted, of skewer- 
 ing a roast. 
 
 I reached Atlanta that evening. We were scheduled 
 to arrive in New Orleans at noon time the following 
 day, which was to give us an hour and a half's waiting 
 time there before our car was to be coupled to the South- 
 ern Pacific train. This waiting time was to be spent in 
 looking about New Orleans. As it was, we reached 
 New Orleans two hours late, missing both our promised, 
 outing and train connections. This necessitated our car 
 being attached to a "special." 
 
8 
 
 By this time, the passengers of our tourist car had be- 
 come acquainted with each other, and the tediousness of 
 riding and the disappointment of not being afforded 
 a brief glance of New Orleans was somewhat offset by 
 the pleasant little chats that acquaintance brings about 
 under such circumstances. 
 
 Prominent among my fellow passengers was an esti- 
 mable lady of New England, whose several sons have 
 held high public offices^ but whose name I do not feel 
 at liberty to divulge here. She had reached fourscore 
 years, yet was traveling alone to California to seek re- 
 newed health. There was also a Scotch lady from San 
 Francisco, returning from a trip abroad to be !pres- 
 ent at her daughter's marriage; a young Eastern lady, 
 a doctor, going to San Francisco to accept a position 
 in a hospital there ; a German lady, just from Berlin, with 
 her two small children, on her way to Los Angeles to 
 join her husband, whom she had not seen for six months ; 
 and, lastly, there was a big, double-chested Irishman. 
 
 The "special" to which our car was attached at New 
 Orleans left for Houston, we were told, to catch the 
 train we had missed. It failed to overtake the regular 
 train, however, and after a great deal of jerking, bump- 
 ing and numerous side-tracking performances during the 
 night, we arrived at Houston, Texas, at 8 o'clock on the 
 third morning, eight hours behind schedule time. Here 
 our "special" was abandoned, and we were forced to 
 wait until noon time, when our car was attached to an- 
 other "California Express." 
 
 Having been in Houston some years before, I acted as 
 escort to the doctor lady and the German lady, children 
 included, showing them about Texas' metropolis. The 
 German lady's little girl, whom she carried in her arms 
 became squirmy and wanted to walk. At the doctor's 
 suggestion that she put the child down, the mother, in 
 broken English, impatiently remarked: "I have carried 
 
dees chir seex thousand miles alretty!" However, she 
 seemed little the worse for her herculean task. 
 
 Sundown of the same day found us at San Antonio, 
 and about 20 miles further on an accident happened to 
 our engine, necessitating a stop for repairs. Shortly after 
 we heard a heavy freight puffing behind us and ap- 
 proaching rapidly on a down grade. A flagman from 
 our train hastily unloosened the signal lights on our car 
 (which was the rear one) and started on a quick run to 
 warn the oncoming freight. 
 
 It was a calm night, and the freight could be plainly 
 heard approaching. Our flagman, on a dead run, had 
 covered about a mile, when he almost fell exhausted. 
 He stopped, and, wnth just strength enough left to fran- 
 tically wave the danger lights, he dropped to the ground. 
 The engineer of the freight train had seen the signals, 
 and in an instant applied the brakes. 
 
 We had all left our car, expecting a smashup. Just 
 at that moment the repairs to our engine were completed, 
 and our engineer, with two sharp, shrill whistles, caused 
 us to quickly get aboard, and our train pulled away. The 
 freight train came up to and passed the spot where we 
 lay, but our train was by this time speeding on ahead, 
 with all chance of an accident averted. 
 
 We did not stop for the flagman, who had our rear car 
 signal lights. No one but myself seemed to be aware of 
 this fact, and I so informed the conductor, telling him 
 finally, after several requests to provide our train with 
 danger lights, that I had determined not to retire until 
 I had seen this all important omission remedied. After 
 another wait, I assisted the porter in placing a new set 
 of red lights to the rear of our car. 
 
 Next morning, the fourth day of my trip, found us in 
 the "sand country," having lost several hours' time during 
 the night. 
 
 At Sierra Blanca, 90 miles east of El Paso, where the 
 
10 
 
 Texas Pacific railroad and the Southern Pacific come to- 
 gether, the doctor's services were in need. A trestle over 
 which a Texas Pacific freight train was crossing gave 
 way, the engine falling through, and the engineer was se- 
 riously injured. Our lady doctor was the only one on the 
 train. She hurriedly went to the mangled engineer and 
 rendered all the assistance she could. He was carried to 
 El Paso in the baggage car of our train, our doctor min- 
 istering to his wants until the Gate City was reached, 
 when she received unstinted words of kind appreciation 
 from his people and trainmen. 
 
 Breakfast is usually eaten at El Paso, but it was 4 
 o'clock in the afternoon before we arrived at that place. 
 Pretty late for breakfast. But that made no difference 
 to the Scotch lady and myself, as the former had pro- 
 vided herself with a large tin bread box of food, and the 
 lady at whose house I roomed in Washington presented 
 me, on the evening I left, with a large box of good 
 lunch, which lasted me all the way. This is what it con- 
 sisted of: Two broiled chickens, two pounds of chipped 
 beef, two pounds of Taylor's prepared ham, one glass 
 of grape preserve, one cup of butter, one cup of sugar, 
 several cans of sardines, a tincup for coffee, two dozen 
 biscuits, and one box of graham crackers. The box of 
 food had the appearance of one containing enough ra- 
 tions for a North Pole expedition. 
 
 I had eaten all my biscuits and bought others at a sta- 
 tion while our train stopped. The Scotch lady, noticing 
 me carrying those in the car, remarked : "Buy no more 
 bread; I have enough for us both." She certainly had, 
 for the tin bread box was about as large as a washboiler. 
 
 A stove is placed in tourist cars for the purpose of 
 boiling eggs, making tea and coffee, and preparing sim- 
 ilar light food, but the frying of steaks, eggs or other 
 food which would create an odor is not allowed. Several 
 passengers carried small naphtha lamps for that pur- 
 pose, but were not permitted to use them. 
 
II 
 
 At a station beyond Deming, N. M., where the train 
 stopped, and at a time when our coterie had congregated 
 about the New England lady's seat, we heard a dull thud 
 in the middle of the car. We all looked that way, and 
 saw a bundle of bedclothes moving irregularly about the 
 floor. Upon investigation, the bundle, we found, con- 
 tained little ''Heinie," the German woman's boy, who had 
 fallen out of his berth into the aisle w^hile asleep. 
 
 The Irishman, who had boarded our train at a station in 
 Virginia, in the meantime, had made himself friendly 
 with our lady passengers. He spent some of his visiting 
 moments early during the trip in the Scotch lady's seat, 
 whose company, after several visits, she did not seem 
 to particularly care for. Also he would visit the New 
 England lady. On one of his visits to the latter he made 
 some unpolished mention of Mrs. Eddy, the head of Chris- 
 tian Science. While the New England lady did not en- 
 tirely believe in what Mrs. Eddy advocates, still when 
 questionable reference was made to the character of the 
 latter, the New England lady was much put out and 
 greatly agitated. Seeing the mental exertion and annoy- 
 ance the Irishman had caused her, I went to her rescue 
 and prevented any further discussion of this matter. 
 
 He had made a visit to Ireland, and while there at- 
 tended King Edward's coronation in England. He had 
 with him a box of coronation chinaware, which he insisted 
 our lady passengers should look at. After he had finished 
 showing them, the Scotch lady asked him if he were an 
 American citizen, to which he answered in the affirm- 
 ative. She intimated in a few words that it was not clear 
 to her how any American citizen could seem to think so 
 much of England's emiblems. 
 
 It was on a later occasion, however, he brought upon 
 himself a charge of verbal shrapnel that would forever 
 seal the lips of most any man when in women's company. 
 The Scotch lady was going down the aisle to make a 
 
12 
 
 "call" on the New England lady. To do so it was nec- 
 essary to pass the Irishman's seat. When she reached 
 the seat he occupied, he coarsely asked : "Where are you 
 going, ma ?" The Scotch blood could stand it no longer, 
 and, with a withering look, but firm and polite manner, 
 she said: "Were you my son, you would be younger 
 looking, better looking, and better mannered!" 
 
 In ways of this kind our Irishman had become some- 
 what unpopular, failing at times to receive a cheery 
 "good morning." 
 
 Over the dusty, sandy, cactus-grown plains of Arizona 
 we trundled along. At Palm Springs, Cal., the New 
 England lady quit the train, and not far beyond we were 
 riding through the almond, plum, apricot and orange 
 groves of southern California. 
 
 Six days from the time we left Washington we reached 
 Los Angeles, seventeen hours late, where the German 
 woman, Irishman and myself got off, the Scotch lady and 
 doctor continuing to San Francisco. 
 
 It took two porters to carry the German woman's pil- 
 lows, mattresses, bedclothing of all kinds — in fact, she 
 had a portable furnished room — from the car to the depot. 
 I accompanied her inside the depot for the purpose of see- 
 ing her safely to a hotel, were her husband not in waiting. 
 After pushing our way a short distance inside the lobby 
 of the depot, she, without warning, uttered a smothered 
 shriek. A large, fine-looking man hurriedly came toward 
 her, and — I looked the other way. I waited until greet- 
 ings were exchanged, and, as I stepped toward her to 
 bid her good-bye, she introduced me to her husband in 
 German, of which I did not understand a word. 
 
 LOS ANGELES, CAL, 
 
 My ticket called for a five-day stop-over in Los An- 
 geles, which I put to good use in looking about the city. 
 But two seasons prevail in southern California — fall 
 
13 
 
 and summer. In fact, California looks better in winter 
 than in the summer, as in the winter the mountains and 
 hills are green like the mountains of Vermont in summer, 
 while, through infrequent rainfalls in the summer, the 
 grass is dead, except in lawns and parks watered by irri- 
 gation. 
 
 In southern California the odor arising from orange 
 groves is pronounced for miles. The ripening season is 
 from December to May. The land on which the orange 
 trees grow is all irrigated. The irrigation system of Cali- 
 fornia, by the way, excels that to be found in any State 
 of the arid country. It is by far the most economical also, 
 as the bottom of the main ditches, and a considerable 
 number of the minor ones, are cemented, thereby prevent- 
 ing a waste of water by seepage that takes place where 
 the bottom is of no harder substance than sandy earth. 
 
 I have no hesitancy in stating the best equipped street 
 cars in North America are to be found in Los Angeles, 
 and the service is fast and good. The city is well supplied 
 with shady and flowered parks, and, altogether, it is sec- 
 ond to no city of its size in regard to modern public im- 
 provements. The climate is delightful in the winter sea- 
 son. In the summer the days, as a rule, are warm, the 
 mercury often reaching lOO degrees ; but the nights are 
 cool, there being a difference of from 40 to 50 degrees 
 in the temperature between daylight and dark. 
 
 Los Angeles is situated 18 miles off the coast, the prin- 
 cipal seaside resorts being Santa Monica and Long 
 Beaches. It was the latter end of February I visited the 
 former beach, when I saw a number of people bathing 
 in the surf, lying on the beach, etc., the same as at Eastern 
 beaches during July and August. 
 
 A striking instance of the personification of laziness 
 came under my observation at Santa Monica. A very 
 large, fat man ambled onto the beach, accompanied by a 
 dog, a chain fastened to its collar. The man wished 
 
14 
 
 to take a sleep on the sand, but did not care to leave the 
 dog at freedom. He looked about to see if he could find 
 a place to keep the canine safely, but, finding none that 
 suited him, simply secured the chain around his ankle 
 and lay face downward. Other dogs came along, caus- 
 ing the fat man's dog to jump and play; but it did not 
 seem to disturb the sleeper, who slept soundly through it 
 all. 
 
 I made a visit to Pasadena while I was in Los Angeles, 
 which is some six miles distant. This is one of the beauty 
 spots of North America. Winter or summer, the lawns 
 and gardens are green, with an exaggerated profusion 
 of flowers. Wealthy people mostly comprise the popula- 
 tion of this place. On the way to Pasadena I passed 
 an ostrich farm. This is the place where ostriches driven 
 to a sulky have been photographed, and it proves a great 
 attraction to visitors. 
 
 Also located just outside of Los Angeles is a "pigeon 
 ranch." Thousands of pigeons are to be seen here. 
 Through the grounds the Los Angeles River runs. At 
 times the banks are alive with these birds. When fright- 
 ened, as quick as a shot from a gun, they fly up, creating 
 a terrific noise like great waves striking against massive 
 rocks. This pigeon ranch furnishes the markets of Cali- 
 fornia with squabs the year round. The proprietor is 
 known as "White- Winged" Olsen, and has emassed 
 quite a fortune from this novel industry. He started 
 with but few birds, and they soon increased to thou- 
 sands. 
 
 A majority of the population of Los Angeles is com- 
 posed of well-to-do residents, enticed there by the de- 
 lightful climate. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 
 My stop-over having expired, I boarded a train for 
 San Francisco, the New York of the Pacific. One unfa- 
 
IS 
 
 miliar with the climatic features of this place would be 
 greatly disappointed upon visiting this widely known 
 city. An eastern person will wear the same clothing in 
 June and July as in the winter season in the East. 
 Winter or summer, it is an every-day sight to see men 
 wearing overcoats and straw hats; equally as common 
 to see two women walking together, one in a light waist 
 and the other wearing a sealskin coat. Inquiry as to 
 the oddity of the latter elicited the information that a 
 great many of the native women wear chamois-skin un- 
 derclothing. Few people who go out for an afternoon 
 fail to take an overcoat or heaw wrap along, for they 
 are sure to have need of them before sundown. In June 
 and July while sitting in the sun watching a baseball 
 game, it was absolutely necessary at times to wear an 
 overcoat. The truck farmers just outside the city have 
 hedges planted on their farms, about 30 feet apart to 
 prevent the wind's sweep. Without this precaution the 
 garden truck would not thrive. The cold winds are the 
 unexpected and unpleasant feature of this city. 
 
 There are two cities of our country in which parks 
 are of little use at night for recreation purposes — San 
 Francisco, it being too cool to sit in them, and Newark, 
 N. J., owing to the numerous mosquitoes. 
 
 Many places boast with pride of their great number of 
 pretty women, but they have no foundation in fact com- 
 pared to the fair-skinned women of San Francisco. It 
 applies only to the native born and Eastern children 
 brought there when very young. So pronounced is this 
 feature that the ordinary looking women are in the mi- 
 nority. No difference, however, can be noticed in the 
 native male. 
 
 New York is the only city that surpasses San Fran- 
 cisco in public conveniences. It is now a city of perhaps 
 400,000 inhabitants, and in the business section there are 
 park squares and lavatories for both sexes; parks 
 
i6 
 
 throughout the residential section, besides a number of 
 public playgrounds, with athletic paraphernalia for boys 
 and swings, etc., for girls, besides Golden Gate, the finest 
 park, perhaps, in North America. 
 
 This particular park is from three to four miles in 
 length, and its western boundary is the Pacific Ocean. 
 Its beautiful drives, flower beds, botanical buildings, mu- 
 seum, shade trees, lakes, etc., are first-class. In the center 
 of it is a high hill, used as a point of observation, from 
 which a sweeping view of the Pacific Ocean can be had 
 as far out as the Farallone Islands, the bird rendezvous, 
 30 miles distant. Located on this elevation also is a res- 
 ervoir, built for the purpose of supplying water for cat- 
 aract displays on the east side, which take place three 
 times a week. The area embraced in Golden Gate Park 
 was originally a sandy waste. 
 
 On the coast end of the park and a little northward 
 stands the Cliff House, a hotel, the foundation of which 
 being the natural sea wall. 
 
 Not more than 40 or 50 feet from the Cliff House, in 
 the ocean, are located the Seal Rocks, which prove of 
 great interest to any one who has never witnessed a sim- 
 ilar sight. Hundreds of seals at times can be seen drag- 
 ging themselves out of the water onto the rocks and 
 floundering back again. These are not the fur-bearing 
 seal, like the Alaska variety. When out of the water 
 long enough for the fur to dry, the huge rocks on which 
 they sun themselves resemble a mammoth buffalo robe. 
 
 The aristocratic section of San Francisco is Knob Hill, 
 the highest point in the city, affording a wide range of 
 view eastward across the bay to Oakland, northward to 
 Sausalito and Mount Tamalpais, and westward far out 
 into the ocean. Handsome residences of the Floods, 
 Fairs, Mackeys and other equally prominent families of 
 the Pacific Coast are situated on Knob Hill. Owing to 
 the steepness of the slope on southward, northward and 
 
17 
 
 eastern sides, cable street cars are of necessity used 
 entirely. 
 
 Below, on the eastern side, is Chinatown, an eyesore 
 to the city officials and citizens generally. An air of 
 myster}^ pervades this locality. Its cellar-living quarters, 
 its tunnel system, opium and gambling dens, together 
 with their oath-bound societies, render it almost impos- 
 sible for officers or any one not Mongolian to obtain in- 
 formation of the murders and other crimes which take 
 place in this quarter frequently, and it is a source of much 
 concern to the people of San Francisco. The legislative 
 bodies of the city have sought to put an end to this lo- 
 cality by entering condemnation proceedings against the 
 property, but the high rents received by the owners, with 
 the lav/ of possession on their side, seems to prevent any 
 and all efforts to wipe out Chinatown. The population 
 of Chinatown was given as 20,000, and it comprises an 
 area of several blocks. 
 
 Passing along Kearny street one day, I noticed three 
 Chinese women, bare headed, walking toward me, the one 
 in the middle being supported by those on either side. 
 This one proved to be a woman of rank, and it was owing 
 to her small feet, distinctive of caste, that necessitated 
 the aid of her companions to steady her. The shoes she 
 wore did not exceed two and a half inches in length, and 
 her weight was about 160 pounds. It is not often women 
 of her social standing are seen in public. I have never 
 seen a Chinese woman wear head covering of any kind. 
 
 One Sunday evening I attended Salvation Army serv- 
 ices in Chinatown. The Salvationist officers were two 
 American women, who read the Scriptures, prayed and 
 preached the sermon in English, which was interpreted 
 to the congregation by a Chinaman. The hall was well 
 filled, and close attention given to the interpretation. An 
 attractive Chinese young woman presided at the organ, 
 who sang in English, "J^sus, Lover of My Soul," 
 
i8 
 
 "Nearer, My God to Thee," and other well-known church 
 hymns. When the tambourine, used for collections, 
 reached me, the smallest pieces of coin I noticed it con- 
 tained were quarters, half dollars and dollars, the amount 
 each Chinaman seemed to believe was his share towards 
 helping the cause. 
 
 From the number of Chinese laundries in cities off the 
 Coast, people not familiar with conditions in San Fran- 
 cisco might believe Chinese controlled the laundry busi- 
 ness of that city ; but such is not the case. There are 
 fewer Chinese laundries in San Francisco than any city 
 of its size throughout the country. In this and other 
 Coast cities a fine is imposed by labor unions upon mem- 
 bers patronizing Mongolian laundries. 
 
 The absence of negroes on the streets of San Francisco 
 is a noticeable feature. One might be about town a day 
 and fail to see a negro. Two reasons are given for their 
 absence — the cold winds, and Chinese doing porter and 
 similar work usually done by negroes in other cities. The 
 social standing of Chinese in San Francisco is no higher 
 than that of the negro of the South. Chinese children 
 are not permitted to attend the public white schools, but 
 must go to the Mongolian schools. The same ruling has 
 recently been applied to Japanese of that city also. 
 
 While making a trip by ferryboat from San Francisco 
 to Oakland, seven miles across the bay, the number of 
 seagulls flying on either side of the vessel attracted my at- 
 tention. By keeping watch, one is very apt to see a gull 
 shoot downward. This swoop is made to catch peanuts, 
 fruit, etc., thrown to them by passengers, which they cap- 
 ture most always before the tempting morsels reach the 
 water. 
 
 Outside of large business blocks, the houses and build- 
 ings of San Francisco are mostly built of redwood. On 
 most every house in the city can be seen from one to a 
 dozen bay windows. San Francisco could appropriately 
 be termed the Bay Window Cit}^ 
 
19 
 
 I made a trip to and up Mount Tamalpais, not more 
 than lo miles from the city, which is well worth one's 
 time. This mountain is one of a long chain of which the 
 coast range is comprised. Its top is reached by a grape- 
 vine-like railroad. The distance from base to summit is 
 eight miles. In one place the railroad is so snake-like that 
 the in-and-out loops of its course represent a double bow 
 knot. From the top of this mountain I got a splendid 
 view of the Pacific Ocean and the city. 
 
 The daily newspapers published in Pacific Coast cities 
 are far more in advance of Eastern newspapers. Places 
 there with a population of from 50,000 to 100,000 sup- 
 port papers equal to those published in Eastern cities of 
 300,000 population. Newspapers are good barometers, 
 I have found by which the merits of a city can be judged. 
 
 Something novel in the way of funerals came under 
 my observation in this city ; it was a trolley car funeral. 
 The casket was borne in a car built for the purpose, and 
 the mourners and friends followed in ordinary street 
 cars. Some of the cemeteries are located in far, outlying 
 districts, where the usual mode of coach conveyance 
 would prove almost a prohibitive expense to people in 
 ordinary circumstances, and I understand the trolley com- 
 panies in such instances make the charge reasonable. 
 
 The highest buildings in San Francisco will never ex- 
 ceed from ten to twelve stories, I was informed, owing 
 to the frequent earthquake shocks that occur in the lower 
 Pacific region. 
 
 The city is well supplied with theaters, the department 
 stores are Ai, business activity is noticeable at every turn, 
 street traffic heavy, and, as a seaport city, and in general, 
 San Francisco can justly claim to be the New York of the 
 West. 
 
 I remained in San Francisco about a month, where I 
 earned enough money to carry out my plans so far, as I 
 had calculated. I found plenty of work, with good 
 
20 
 
 wages, and felt much encouraged. I made a start for 
 the Puget Sound country, buying a ticket for Seattle, 
 Wash. 
 
 MOUNT SHASTA. 
 
 About 250 miles northward from San Francisco by 
 rail, at the time passengers are emerging from their 
 berths, what seems like a large, white cloud appears to 
 view, 100 miles ahead, which attracts but little attention. 
 Looking out of the car window later, the cloud seems to 
 be in the same place as when first noticed. And still 
 further on the great, white cloud seems so unusually plain 
 and near as to arouse curiosity. The question, "Is that 
 a cloud?" will finally be asked of some one close by, and 
 the reply will be "No ; that's Mount Shasta." The train 
 stops for dinner at Dunsmuir, not far from this mountain. 
 After going seven or eight miles, another stop is made 
 immediately at the base. Then an ascent up its side, a 
 cattle-path-like road, necessitating an extra engine, and 
 often when a heavy train is drawn, it is necessary to split 
 it and take it up in sections. Finally Sissons is reached, 
 the summit of the grade, at the foot of Shasta at another 
 side ; but all the while the great, white mountain is above 
 us, before us, behind us, and apparently all about us. 
 Northward we travel 100 miles, when the summit of the 
 Siskiyou Mountains is reached, the juncture of the Sierra 
 Nevada and Cascade ranges, and also the border line of 
 California and Oregon. The valley below through which 
 we passed an hour before is now enveloped in the shades 
 of night. As we begin to descend the slope into Oregon, 
 a look backward is rewarded with a final view of the 
 noble, snow-white, dome-like top of Shasta. Its height is 
 nearly 14,000 feet. 
 
 A glance from the car window, as I descended the Sis- 
 kiyous, revealed bridges over which we were about to 
 pass, whose skeleton-like forms caused me to quickly 
 
21 
 
 withdraw my gaze through fear of what might happen 
 should they collapse. 
 
 SEATTLE, WASH. 
 
 Upon reaching Seattle I found a much larger city than 
 that of ten years previous, it having more than doubled 
 its population in that time. Any one who has been in 
 Duluth, Minn., would find a marked similarity in the 
 nature of the hillsides on which the two cities are built, 
 the only difference being that the former is rock and the 
 latter soil. The hillsides in both instances are very steep. 
 No one familiar with the nature of the Puget Sound coun- 
 try would be surprised on reading an account, any day 
 in the rainy season, of Seattle having slid into the waters 
 of the Sound. Landslides are common during the rainy 
 season in that section of the country. This season begins 
 about November and continues until the middle of April 
 or the 1st of May, thus saturating the ground to a thin- 
 mud wetness. An excavation was under way for the 
 basement of a newspaper building while I was there. The 
 front of the building was to face one of the principal 
 streets, on which is a street car line. Notwithstanding 
 it was lagged and shored three times more than is nec- 
 essary in most cities for a like purpose, the land above it 
 slid, making an opening a foot wide in the asphalted 
 street between the rails of the car track. 
 
 The month of February of a recent year produced but 
 two rainy days. A throat affection broke out in the city, 
 the doctors accounting for it by the dry weather at that 
 time of year. The people prayed for rain, their prayers 
 having been answered, when the epidemic ceased. Dur- 
 ing the summer season, however, there can be enjoyed no 
 more delightful climate in North America. It rarely ever 
 rains, and the thermometer seldom registers higher than 
 85 degrees. 
 
 Seattle's population became greatly reduced in the 
 
22 
 
 middle '90's, I was informed, half of the buildings in 
 both the residential and business sections having been de- 
 serted. Since the Alaska gold boom, however, it has 
 made up for the temporary lapse. 
 
 The people of Seattle are the most pronounced local 
 patriots in the entire country. Each resident, like a So- 
 cialist, acts and works as a specially appointed committee 
 of one to boost his city (one dare not call it a town in 
 their presence). Its seaport advantages, being 30 miles 
 nearer Juan de Fuca Straits than Tacoma, with no place 
 of importance northward to interfere, secures for it the 
 mercantile leverage of the Northwest. Considerable lum- 
 ber and coal is shipped from here, and a large amount 
 of the grain grown in eastern Washington and Idaho 
 is brought by rail to Seattle and reloaded into vessels for 
 shipment to Australian and Oriental ports. Besides this, 
 it has very progressive business men, its greatest asset, 
 who minimize nothing that claims even remote kinship to 
 Seattle. 
 
 In order to secure the contract for building a vessel for 
 the Government by a local firm, and to prevent other com- 
 petitors from underbidding, the citizens guaranteed $100,- 
 000 if the contract were awarded to it. This offered 
 bonus enabled the local bidder to secure the contract. In- 
 stances of inducements of this nature to bring business 
 to the city are numerous. 
 
 Mount Ranier, over 14,000 feet high, snow covered 
 the year round, is located 60 miles southeast from Seattle, 
 and can be seen plainly any bright moonlight night from 
 this point. 
 
 Seagulls are so numerous at this port that, at times 
 when flying, they obscure the sun. 
 
 A boat ride 12 miles westward from Seattle, around 
 small islands, across small bays, and in and through 
 watery crannies brought me to Bremerton, where a 
 Government drydock is built, large enough to admit of 
 
23 
 
 any of Uncle Sam's sea fighters. Up the Sound to Port 
 Townsend, 30 miles northward, on either side can be seen 
 large guns poking their noses toward the water. These 
 forts have been erected within the last seven or eight 
 years, and more are under course of construction. 
 
 I spent a month in Seattle, working most of the time, 
 and just before leaving, I took a sail up to Victoria, B. C. 
 
 VICTORIA, B, C, 
 
 The banks or bluffs on the British side of Juan de 
 Fuca Straits, whereon is located Victoria, bears a marked 
 similarity to those at Newport, R. L, over which one 
 passes when traversing the Cliff Walk. The straits at 
 this point are 15 miles wide, and Port Angeles, Wash., 
 opposite, is Victoria's nearest American neighbor. This 
 provincial capital is beautifully situated on the southerly 
 end of Vancouver Island. The weather in the summer 
 season is delightful, but has its rainy season like the 
 rest of the Northwest country. Victoria has a population 
 of some 10,000 inhabitants, mostly Englishmen in good 
 circumstances. The thrift and energy that is so marked 
 in the American places in the Pacific Northwest is ab- 
 sent here, every one seeming to take life easy. 
 
 At Esquimalt, three miles from Victoria, is located 
 England's naval headquarters on the Pacific. A drydock 
 large enough to admit of her war vessels is to be found 
 here. This is built in a narrow bay, and between it and 
 Juan de Fuca Straits is a narrow strip of land. The forts 
 are built on this strip of land, which commands the straits 
 for a considerable distance westward. No one is per- 
 mitted to visit these forts. There seemed to be an air of 
 secrecy on all sides that made me feel uneasy. 
 
 PORTLAND, ORE. 
 
 After a two day^' visit to Victoria, I now decided to 
 return to San Francisco, but stopped off a day at Port- 
 
24 
 
 land, which is reputed to be one of the most solid finan- 
 cial cities of the West. This city is situated in the Wil- 
 lamette valley, a short distance southward being a rich 
 farming country. In no other city have I found the 
 public streets in such a wretched condition. Holes of from 
 three inches to a foot in the once-asphalted pavement 
 could be seen at every turn. The streets were in such a 
 bad state, in fact, that a horse attached to a vehicle could 
 not be driven faster than a walk, lest the occupants would 
 be jolted from their seats to the ground. A very fine 
 view of Mount Hood, about 80 miles to the eastward, 
 can be had from this city. 
 
 EUREKA, CAL* 
 
 I continued on from Portland to San Francisco, where 
 I remained but a few days. I was informed an operator 
 was wanted at Eureka, about 228 miles up the coast. I 
 left on the next boat for this place, where I arrived 48 
 hours later, sick from the time I had crossed Golden Gate 
 bar until I went ashore at my destination. The boat seemed 
 to be most of the time on end. It was a frightful expe- 
 rience. I worked one night, when it became known a 
 mistake had been made by the proprietor as to the par- 
 ticular kind of work I was to do, I received $25, how- 
 ever, which included my fare both ways, hotel expenses, 
 and allowed me $5 for my night's work. When I again 
 reached San Francisco, I became known as a "high-priced 
 man," receiving $25 for one night's work. 
 
 Eureka is situated on Humbolt Bay, and also in the 
 heart of the redwood section of California, and has a 
 population of some 10,000 inhabitants. There is no rail- 
 road entering this place from the outside world, boat and 
 stage being the means of travel. Lumber is Eureka's 
 chief and only industry, there being numerous large saw- 
 mills situated along the bay. Day and night forces are 
 employed in these mills nearly the year round. 
 
25 
 
 When making this trip from San Francisco, Point 
 Reyes, the windiest place in North America, is passed. 
 Passing vessels attract to the surface the heads and 
 sometimes the great forms of whales in this part of the 
 Pacific Ocean. 
 
 The cold winds that prevail in San Francisco are en- 
 countered at Eureka, and here again can be noticed the 
 pink skin of the native women and girls. 
 
 YOSEMITE VALLEY, 
 
 After again returning to San Francisco, finding all the 
 work I could do, with good wages, I had more than 
 made expenses, besides a little sum to spare, which I felt 
 sure I could use to good satisfaction in a ten-day trip to 
 Yosemite Valley, as the excursion rate was quite reason- 
 able, all things considered. 
 
 The distance from San Francisco to Yosemite is 266 
 miles, 198 by rail to Raymond, and 68 by stage. The best 
 time of year to visit Yosemite is from the latter end of 
 May to the middle of June. A trip before this time will 
 find a number of trails blocked with snowdrifts. Later 
 than the middle of June will find the various falls much 
 reduced, the snow having melted off the mountains. Rib- 
 bon, or Virgin Tear Falls, with a descent of 3,300 feet, 
 is a rare treat to see early in the season, while later, the 
 snow melting each day, finds nothing but a small stream 
 trickling down the mountain walls. 
 
 With the exception of one stage (the mail), two days' 
 time is consumed before the Valley is reached. The first 
 day's ride is finished at Wawona, 42 miles from Raymond. 
 I started the next morning for the Valley, 26 miles fur- 
 ther, reaching there at i o'clock P. M. The conveyances 
 are Concord stages, four-seated, three people to a seat, 
 drawn by four horses, there being seven relays during 
 the trip. From Raymond to Ahwahnee the road is oiled 
 to settle the dust, but its usefulness is noticeable only in 
 
26 
 
 spots. On the whole, the stage trip is a hard and dusty 
 one, travelers, after an hour's riding, resembling Indian 
 mounds more than human beings. 
 
 The first view of the grandeur of the Valley is had 
 about seven miles westward from the village. Waterfalls 
 behind and before, from 600 to 3,000 feet ; mountains and 
 peaks nearly a mile in height ; a green, shrub-grown val- 
 ley below us, through which flows the swiftly running 
 Merced River, its waters of a glassy clearness, and be- 
 yond, to a narrow opening at the extreme eastward end, 
 the eyes rest on two globe-like peaks. North and South 
 Domes, a mile above the floor of the valley. 
 
 I had reached Inspiration Point, and no one, it is safe 
 to say, has ever been prepared for the magnificence of the 
 scenery on which the eye feasts. Fatigue and dust are for- 
 gotten; cares and worry are as if buried. The scene 
 before us seemed supernatural. The mortal is in statu 
 quo, as it were; the soul on an outing, reveling in ecsta- 
 cies contained in realms supra-mundane. Heights from 
 which the grandeur of the valley are seen so charm people 
 that iron railings are securely placed upon the edge of 
 the precipices to prevent them from stepping uncon- 
 sciously over; space at intervals terraced with rainbows, 
 mirrored waters, steepled mountainsides, and diamond- 
 like water falls, is but a vague idea of the magnificence of 
 the scenery contained in Yosemite Valley. Nature alone 
 is the author and finisher of its handiwork, for even a 
 description of its magnificence is beyond the power of 
 man to portray. It must be seen to be understood and 
 appreciated. 
 
 The two chief mountain features are El Capitan and 
 Half Dome, the former at the western end of the valley 
 and the latter at the eastern. "El Capitan is in some 
 senses the more impressive of the two, the bald, square 
 continuous front of solid granite mounting up at a single 
 bound over two-thirds of a mile, marks this great buttress 
 
27 
 
 as the only one of its kind in the world. Trees on its 
 summit look like shrubs, and heav>^-winged fowl soaring 
 past its upper walls look like motes in the sunbeams." 
 Its height is 3,330 feet above the valley, and "should 
 some convulsion of nature throw it over upon its face, 
 it would require 160 acres for its bed." The acme of 
 God's masonry is pronouncedly attested in the impres- 
 sive, finished state of El Capitan. 
 
 Cathedral Rocks, or Three Graces, as they are some- 
 times called, 2,660 feet, are on the southern side of the 
 valley from El Capitan, and dov/n the western side of 
 the former flows Bridal Veil Falls. 
 
 Bridal Veil is the second water fall reached when en- 
 tering the valley, Cascades being to the extreme west. 
 Its perpendicular descent is 600 feet, and its total, to the 
 level, 900 feet, its width being about 30 feet at the top. 
 It is Bridal Veil over which the artists rave — to whom 
 it is ethereal. The breeze that generally blows here 
 catches the stream below the brink and sways it to and 
 fro, forming long, sweping, graceful motions, giving it 
 a gauze-like, velvety, downy appearance. From 4 to 5 
 o'clock in the afternoon is when the sun is reflected in 
 the mist and spray, when at the foot of the falls and for 
 some distance above can be seen more than one red, 
 white, green and blue archway — space terraced with 
 rainbows, in fact. 
 
 Beyond the Three Graces are Cathedral Spires, "which 
 are marvelously beautiful, and strikingly suggestive of 
 the solemn offices to which they have been dedicated. 
 They rise to a height of 2,678 and 2,585 feet, respectively, 
 their distinctive columnar form being about 700 feet. 
 
 On the north side of the valley above El Capitan are 
 the Three Brothers mountain, so named, it is said by the 
 capture of three Indians, who proved to be brothers, the 
 highest point of which is nearly 4,000 feet, and is called 
 Eagle Peak. Previous to the peaks having been named 
 
28 
 
 Three Brothers, the Indians called them Frog Mountain, 
 owing to several large rocks resembling that amphibian, 
 in some instances very pronounced. It was from here 
 1 received the best view of the valley. From this, as 
 well as other high points, the grassy bottom of the Merced 
 River, nearly 5,000 feet below, is almost as plainly seen 
 as when standing upon the river's brink. 
 
 Sentinel Peak was next in order as I wended my way 
 to the village. This is an obelisk-like, slender mass of 
 granite over 3,000 feet high, and it is sometimes called 
 the watch tower of the valley. Its front is perpendic- 
 ular for over 1,500 feet below its top. 
 
 We are now nearing the village, and in plain view of 
 Yosemite Falls, the greatest of them all. The upper falls 
 have a perpendicular descent of 1,600 feet; the middle, 
 of cataract nature, 600, and the lower falls, perpendic- 
 ular, 400, making a total of 2,600 feet. The width of 
 the stream where it takes its downward leap is about 
 40 feet wide and quite deep. There are several falls earlier 
 in the season which have a greater perpendicular descent 
 than Yosemite, but the streams are small and are not to 
 be seen after the heavier snow has been melted. 
 
 The water of Yosemite Falls, in its swift plunge 
 downward, has the appearance of rockets. The roar of 
 the water at the foot of the upper falls resembles the 
 deep, rumbling sound of thunder. That sound is con- 
 stant. At night the descending water appears like a 
 great white robe stretching down the mountainside. Yo- 
 semite Camp is located half a mile distant, and frequently 
 in the morning the tents would be damp with spray. 
 
 A trip to the apex of the upper falls, although a dread- 
 ful trail must be traveled to reach it, is well repaid by 
 the unusual view to be had. Immediately at the top is a 
 small ledge or shelf of rock, around which is a stout iron 
 railing in front and to the left. One's safety is fraught 
 with peril to reach this ledge, particularly if the soles 
 
29 
 
 of the shoes are not provided with nails to prevent slip- 
 ping on the rocks, over which most tourists are forced 
 to resort to hand-and-knee method, and backward and 
 sideways beside. This trail, I dare say, would arouse 
 hesitancy in a mountain goat. The area of the ledge will 
 not accommodate more than three or four persons at a 
 time. 
 
 A few feet to the left, the water is taking its awful 
 plunge, striking on boulders held with a vice-like grip in 
 the mountain, "forming diamond columns or bejeweled 
 fountains. Sublime and majestic in its awful grandeur 
 it appears. From the dizzying height, shudderingly one 
 draws back from the scene, which seems to take hold 
 with the terrible fascination of its power. One leaves 
 the scene speechless." 
 
 The mountain features are now all in view — Sentinel 
 Dome, Glacier Point, Cloud's Rest, Half Dome and North 
 Domes, ranging in height from 3,500 to 6,000 feet above 
 the floor of the valley, which is 4,000 feet above sea level. 
 Among these. Half Dome, or South Dome, is the one on 
 which the tourist's attention is more particularly centered. 
 Across from it is North Dome, a deep gorge separating 
 them; but it is in no way part of Half Dome, as the 
 former is round and the latter cut evenly through the 
 center ; but there is no evidence of the other half, if there 
 ever was one. On the front side its face is perpendicular 
 for about 2,000 feet below its summit, its full height being 
 5,000 feet. 
 
 Years ago there was a rope ladder on the northeast 
 side, built by one G. G. Anderson, by drilling holes into 
 the rock, driving wooden pins into these, to which iron 
 eyes were fastened, standing on the highest pin while drill- 
 ing for the next one, and so on to the top. Many visitors 
 made the ascent, clinging to the latter for a distance of 
 nearly 1,000 feet. Since the rope ladder rotted away, 
 several attempts have been made to rebuild it; but An- 
 
30 
 
 derson is no more, and the commissioners do not care to 
 encourage visitors to take such perilous trips. 
 
 Three miles eastward from the village is Mirror Lake, 
 on which Half Dome fronts. Casually looking at this 
 small body of water, one notices nothing about it different 
 from other ponds. But, when looking directly into it, a 
 person's features appear as clearly as if seen in a looking 
 glass. Any morning between 6 130 and 7 130 during Yo- 
 semite season, one can see tourists in carriages, on horse- 
 back, and others walking to Mirror Lake. Between 7 130 
 and 7:45 the sun peeps through a sag formed by two 
 points of rock on the eastern side of Half Dome, and 
 first makes its appearance on the western end of the lake. 
 Everyone will be closely looking into the water, when, as 
 the sun first peeps through the trees growing in this sag, 
 what seems like a brilliant ball-like light appears. As one 
 point of the rock that forms this hollow is in the same 
 direction as the course of the sun at this time of day, it 
 requiring 12 to 15 minutes' time to clear that point, by 
 slowly walking to the eastern end of the lake, one can 
 witness an uninterrupted sunrise for that period. Pic- 
 tures of visitors are taken as they appear in the water, 
 which are as clear as if photographed in a studio. 
 
 When going to Glacier Point, the long way, Happy Isle 
 is passed, a strip of land around which two forks of the 
 Merced River flows. This is a beautiful place, and fre- 
 quented much by women and children. 
 
 Further along we reach Register Rock, on which are 
 cut and written names and dates as far back as 1853, two 
 years after the valley was discovered. Here is where the 
 horse and foot trails separate, the latter being two miles 
 nearer to Vernal Falls. Between Register Rock and 
 Vernal Falls is Lady Franklin Rock. 
 
 The woman after whom this rock was named was Eng- 
 lish; her husband, the explorer, having perished in the 
 Arctic seas. It is said of her that, while visiting the Val- 
 
31 
 
 ley, in 1859, she was taken sick ; but so bent was she on 
 seeing Vernal Falls that her request to be carried there 
 was complied with, and from this point she feasted her 
 eyes on the sparkling, diamond-like waters, three-quar- 
 ters of a mile eastward. 
 
 Going over the foot trail to the top of Vernal Falls, 
 I encountered an exciting experience. I picked my way 
 carefully on this trail alongside the cataracts, where a 
 slip of the foot would mean probable death. In one place 
 a short ladder of five rungs is used, there not being room 
 to get along otherwise. Before this short ladder is 
 reached, however, the spray from the falls is being felt, 
 and further on it increased until it seemed as if I was in 
 the course of a waterspout. Finally, the base of the falls, 
 350 feet high, was reached, where steps are provided to 
 walk on and railings to hold on to until the top. Here a 
 stop of considerable time is generally made for the clothes 
 to dry, for no one can travel over this trail and escape a 
 drenching to the skin. 
 
 Between Vernal and Nevada Falls, a mile distant, is 
 Silver Apron, a dome-like rock, over which the water 
 runs at the terrific speed of 60 miles an hour. The water 
 naturally is shallow, and the speed will not permit a pebble 
 or grain of sand to rest upon the bottom. 
 
 A short distance above Silver Apron the foot and horse 
 trails come together, and then I started for the top of 
 Nevada Falls, the wildest of all those found in Yosemite 
 Valley, their height being 605 feet. It is some distance 
 from the foot to the top of the falls by trail, also very 
 steep and zigzag all the way, some turns being as short 
 as ten feet. Here also iron railings are securely placed 
 at the top of the falls in order that the visitor may obtain 
 a good view of them. 
 
 Lunch is eaten here, for it is a day's travel from the 
 village to Glacier Point, and Nevada Falls is about half 
 way. Between Nevada Falls and Glacier Point a stream 
 
32 
 
 of water dashing over a high ledge of rock, forming a 
 waterfall in keeping with the scenery of the valley is 
 crossed. This is Illilouette Falls, 500 feet, hid in a canyon 
 by itself, surrounded by a forest. 
 
 The widest range of view to be had in the Valley is 
 from Glacier Point. Several miles eastward a splendid 
 view of Vernal and Nevada Falls, a wide sweep of the 
 Sierra Nevada Mountains, the floor of the valley, peaks, 
 etc., are obtained. Here is located Hanging Rock, of 
 which at some time, perhaps, the reader has seen a picture 
 of a man standing on his head, or a woman in the act 
 of dancing. It is not over ten feet long nor six feet wide, 
 with apparently no support. For this reason Government 
 engineers have condemned it ; but there it is still. A slip 
 of the foot, a jostle, or any unsteadiness is apt to start 
 one to the floor of the valley, 3,500 feet below. There is 
 not a ledge of rock, a tree, a twig, or even a blade of 
 grass between Hanging Rock and the floor of the valley. 
 Close by the commissioners have provided iron railings ; 
 but the majority of people, after the first look, leave the 
 place with glaring eyes and shuddering with fear of the 
 terrible fate awaiting them should anything occur that 
 would start them downward. 
 
 It is interesting to see a hundred or more men, 
 women and children preparing to make this trip from 
 the valley. Between 6 and 7 o'clock in the morning, all 
 meet at a certain place, where the trail animals are being 
 made ready for the day's trip. I noticed that women and 
 children were placed on the mules as much as possible, 
 because of this animal's sure footedness, the men having 
 horses assigned to them. 
 
 An acquaintance from San Francisco and myself were 
 the first to travel over Dewey Trail in 1903, the distance 
 being 26 miles. 
 
 The grandeur I beheld in this matchless scenic gem 
 quickened my energies to continue my trip as I had laid 
 
33 
 
 it out, and I felt repaid a hundredfold for the daily econ- 
 omy I had practiced so far. 
 
 BIG TREES. 
 
 I left Yosemite Valley at i o'clock P. M., and reached 
 Wawona at 7 the same evening. From here I started 
 the next morning for Mariposa Big Tree Grove, eight 
 miles distant. Like most people unacquainted, I believed 
 the big trees to grow in Yosemite Valley, but, instead, 
 they are located 34 miles distant. 
 
 The day was spent in going to, among, and coming 
 from the trees. Mariposa Grove was discovered in 1857 
 by Galen Clark, for years guardian of Yosemite Valley, 
 who is still alive, and divides his time between the grove 
 and the valley, with which his life has for so many years 
 been associated. There are two groves, upper and lower, 
 a mile's distance dividing them. The area in which they 
 grow is four miles square. Both Yosemite Valley and 
 Mariposa Big Tree Grove are included in Yosemite Na- 
 tional Park, and both were ceded to the State of Califor- 
 nia at the same time and in the same act of Congress. 
 A guardian, appointed by the State, oversees both the 
 Valley and Grove. 
 
 In the two groves 621 individual trees grow. The first 
 of the larger trees reached is the "Fallen Monarch," on 
 which a company of cavalry were photographed. The 
 next great tree is the ''Grizzly Giant," 104 feet in circum- 
 ference and 224 feet in height. During the drive through 
 the grove the stage passed through two of the largest — 
 ''California" and "Wawona" — the former 21 feet in di- 
 ameter and 284 feet in height, and the latter, the largest 
 tree in the grove, 28 feet in diameter and 260 feet in 
 height. The conveyances used in the grove trip are not 
 small vehicles, but four-horse, four-seated Concord stages, 
 with a shade covering over them. There is another tree, 
 the "Haver ford," in which horses can be ridden and 
 turned around. 
 
34 
 
 Most of the large trees have suffered from forest 
 fires, which have burned out the inside ; but the roots are 
 so large and so deeply imbedded as to furnish them nour- 
 ishment the same as for 5,000 years. The inside of the 
 trees is of a soft nature, sometimes used for pincushions. 
 The cones from those trees are the size and shape of a 
 hen's eggs, while those of the ordinary pine tree found on 
 the mountains in this section are from 12 to 18 inches 
 long. 
 
 Most of the important trees have been christened with 
 the names of Lincoln, Washington, William McKinley, 
 Lafayette, Longfellow, and other prominent men, famous 
 in military, naval, literary and other fields ; and others 
 bear the names of cities. States, colleges, etc. Believe 
 anything that might be told of the trees in Mariposa 
 Grove, as pictures only minimize their greatness. Se- 
 quoia is the name of the wood of these great trees, which 
 looks like cedar, and is much softer than redwood. 
 
 After satisfying myself that I was now familiar with 
 the points of interest contained in two of the great fea- 
 tures which I had always yearned to see, I naturally 
 turned to action in the work line. So I took a stage at 
 Wawona for Raymond, where I boarded a train for San 
 Francisco, arriving there on June 15th. 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH. 
 
 I found work still good in San Francisco, and remained 
 two weeks; the last week of June found me traveling 
 over the Sierras for Salt Lake City. About eight hours' 
 ride eastward, the summit, or divide, of the Sierra Ne- 
 vada Mountains was reached. For a distance of 45 miles 
 down the eastern slope the track is enclosed with an al- 
 most continuous shed — snow shed — which shuts out from 
 view some fine scenery. Heavy snows fall during the 
 winter season, which, before the sheds were built, delayed 
 the trains at times for weeks. Truckee is a supper station, 
 
35 
 
 and, reaching the Nevada line about 30 miles eastward, 24 
 hours' time was consumed in riding before Salt Lake was 
 reached, 20 hours of which was through the barren plains 
 of Nevada. 
 
 Reaching Salt Lake, evidence of the practical master 
 mind of Brigham Young is to be observed. The city, dur- 
 ing Young's time, was surveyed and laid out, comprising 
 an area of four miles square. It is situated in the Jordan 
 Valley, to the southward and to the east, the Wasatch 
 range of mountains, on the highest point of which snow 
 can be seen at any season of year. 
 
 The pure water here is rarely, if ever, found in 
 other cities. The city is well supplied with public drink- 
 ing fountains and cups to drink from. The water comes 
 from the mountains, and flows through a deep canyon, 
 and the cleanliness of the banks, stream and surround- 
 ings is not often found elsewhere. Darting hither and 
 thither in the stream can be seen numerous speckled 
 trout. 
 
 The sanitary plan of the city is somewhat different than 
 that found elsewhere. Down the curbs and gutters of 
 each street at some time of day for a certain period, water 
 is forced. On the business streets it is constant, except, 
 when the water is very low. City laborers are at work 
 all the while removing debris where it might block the 
 course of the water in the gutters. In the summer season, 
 dogs can be seen lying in, and drinking from, these cool 
 and refreshing street streams, and horses also, pawing 
 the water with their fore feet for the purpose of cooling 
 their hind legs and under part of body. 
 
 Each city block contains 10 acres of land, six blocks, 
 including street crossings, making a mile. The streets run 
 due east, west, north and south, the Temple marking the 
 place from which the house numbers start in either di- 
 rection. They are the widest streets in any city of our 
 country. 
 
36 
 
 Little or no rain falls during the summer season, the 
 water for the farm land coming from rivers through 
 irrigation ditches. A city ordinance requires the sprink- 
 ling of the yards and lawns of each householder between 
 the hours of 4 and 8 o'clock in the afternoon. 
 
 Most travelers going to, or coming from, the Coast 
 fail to stop at the Mormon City, as a few interesting days 
 can be spent within its gates. The Temple is an imposing 
 structure, resembling in outward appearance St. Patrick's 
 Cathedra] in New York City. Like most everything else 
 with which Brigham Young had to do in this respect, the 
 Temple is strongly built, its walls being six feet thick. It 
 required 40 years to complete this structure, the stone 
 used in the building having been carried from the moun- 
 tain, some distance away. The Temple is the hall of rec- 
 ords, the holy of holies of the Mormon Church. Services 
 are held in this building only on occasions when high 
 church functions take place. A Gentile is not permitted 
 to see more than the outward walls. 
 
 The Tabernacle is situated directly in the rear of the 
 Temple, in the same square. This is the Mormons' place 
 of public worship, and it is open to visitors every day. 
 Music recitals take place twice or three times a week, 
 free to all. In size, the organ in this building is said to 
 be second to but few, if any, in the world. The choir 
 consists of 500 members. The building is several hun- 
 dred feet long, and about a hundred wide. The roof is 
 arched from one end to the other, with not a semblance 
 of a center support. The sides are practically all doors, 
 rendering it almost impossible, in case of fire, for a sac- 
 rifice of life to occur. In the summer season, during 
 services, most all of the doors are thrown open, prevent- 
 ing any inconvenience from heat to worshipers. It is 
 said the Tabernacle will seat from 9,000 to 10,000 people, 
 there being a large gallery of seats besides the ground 
 floor seating capacity. 
 
37 
 
 I provided myself with change, as usual, for contri- 
 bution; but a surprise is always in store for the visitor, 
 as no collection is taken at their church services. 
 
 The manner in which the church is supported is by 
 tithe, which applies to hay, wood, money, or any other 
 commodity of the business pursuit or occupation in which 
 the member might be engaged. 
 
 A white outline at the base of the mountain range is 
 plainly visible, where once was the shore of the lake, the 
 land on which the city is built at that time having been 
 90 feet under water. The edge of the water of the lake 
 at the present time is 16 miles from the city, and the water 
 is receding yearly. While bathing in this briny body of 
 water, one can lie on their back with almost the same 
 degree of safety as when lying in a bed. This is owing 
 to its buoyant nature. Very few, however, can dive in 
 the salt water, as it gets in the nostrils, and puts the 
 diver generally in a bad way. A large pavilion, owned 
 by Mormons, is built on the shore of the lake, and the 
 place is called Saltair. 
 
 The people seem very peaceable, industrious, thrifty 
 and tidy. To the ordinary person visiting or remaining 
 in the city for a short time, information of the domestic 
 customs of the Mormons is as difficult to obtain as are 
 four-leaf clovers to be found. 
 
 The church owns a large store, at which Mormons 
 do most of their trading. Scrip, issued by the church, 
 is used as currency, and is at par for trading purposes 
 at this store. They help each other and look after their 
 own, consequently there are very few cases of destitu- 
 tion or suffering in sickness through lack of attention. 
 
 Negroes do not frequent restaurants here like in most 
 Northern and Western cities. I mentioned their absence 
 to a restaurateur. He then related a decision that had 
 been handed down by Utah judges on this matter that has 
 not, perhaps, been rendered in any other State. A negro 
 
38 
 
 was informed by a restaurateur that his patronage was 
 not desired. The negro brought suit for damages against 
 him. In a lower court the judge ruled in favor of the 
 restaurateur, from which an appeal was taken. The 
 decision of the lower court was sustained by the higher 
 branch. It seems that part of the United States Consti- 
 tution according equal privileges to all men in this re- 
 spect, uses the word "inn/' and in the decision the line 
 was drawn between the meaning of an inn and a restau- 
 rant. 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, 
 
 Salt Lake was the place from which my itinerary 
 called for a start to Yellowstone National Park. I had 
 now been three weeks in the Mormon City, at which 
 place I worked, and left there with money enough to 
 defray the expenses of a trip through Yellowstone. This 
 is both a long and expensive journey, the distance from 
 Salt Lake City to, through and return being 884 miles, 
 about half of the journey by stage. Every time feet were 
 placed under linen, whether bed or table, a dollar was 
 charged — $4 a day for hotel expenses alone. 
 
 There are two ways in which to enter Yellowstone — 
 by Monida on the west, and Gardiner on the north. I 
 started from Salt Lake at 9 130 A. M. and reached Monida 
 about the same hour in the evening. 
 
 Twelve or fifteen miles northward from Pocatello, Ida., 
 there is located a Government fort, from which rations 
 are dispensed to the Indians of the reservation. As a 
 United States law permits of an Indian boarding either 
 freight or passenger trains and riding free, the platform 
 of the cars of our train were crowded with red men, going 
 to the fort for their easy keep. 
 
 Night was spent in Monida. Early in the morning 
 tourists are busy making ready for their first day's stage 
 ride in the direction of the park. Unlike the road to 
 
39 
 
 Yosemite Valley, this one is level, extending along the 
 crest of the continental divide. Lunch was taken at i 
 o'clock; later we passed around Henry Lake, the source 
 of Snake River, and just as darkness had settled over 
 the earth, Dwelle, not far from the park, was reached. 
 Here a stop was made for the night, having traveled 75 
 miles. From the time one steps off the train at Monida 
 until they return, the air breathed is at an altitude of from 
 7,000 to 8,000 feet. The best distant mountain view I 
 have ever looked upon can be seen when nearing Dwelle, 
 and later while passing through the park. This view is 
 the Teton Mountains, 14,000 feet in height, 75 miles 
 southward, and located on the border of the Idaho and 
 Wyoming State line. Three peaks point heavenward, 
 and are white with snow, like all the high mountains in 
 the Western country. They appeared to me like church 
 steeples, covered with snow, seen from a distance of three 
 or four city blocks on a moonlight night. 
 
 In tidily kept log buildings the night at Dwelle was 
 passed. In the morning a start was m.ade for Fountain 
 Hotel, situated on the edge of Lower Geyser Basin, and 
 20 miles from Dwelle, which was reached about noon 
 time. This basin contains 17 geysers and hundreds of hot 
 springs. Fountain geyser is the one nearest the hotel, 
 which "plays" at intervals of from two to four hours, 
 continuing with great force from 10 to 15 minutes. The 
 water does not reach a height of m.ore than 15 to 20 feet, 
 but the volume is great, the crater being 30 feet in di- 
 ameter. 
 
 A short distance from Fountain geyser is located Mam- 
 moth Paint Pots. This mud cauldron has a basin which 
 measures 40x60 feet, with a mud rim on three sides, 
 which are from four to five feet in height. In this basin 
 a mass of fine, whitish substance can be seen, which is 
 in a constant state of agitation. It resembles some great 
 boiling pot of paint or bed of mortar. There is a con- 
 
40 
 
 tinuous bubbling up of the mud, producing sounds like 
 "plop-plop," and it rises in cones, rings and jets. On the 
 north side of this mud basin is another bed of pink and 
 red substance, over which are scattered 30 to 40 mud 
 cones, averaging from two to three feet in height. It 
 was said the material used in frescoing the Fountain 
 Hotel was taken from the "pot" producing the pink 
 quality. 
 
 Great Fountain is the most prominent geyser in Lower 
 Basin, and is two miles from the hotel. Eruptions occur 
 about every 10 to 12 hours, and remain in action fully 
 30 minutes. The diameter of the hole of this geyser is 
 10 feet, and, after the water has risen to a height of from 
 five to six feet, sometimes it recedes until it seems as 
 if the bottom had fallen completely out, when, suddenly, 
 it will shoot upward fully 80 feet. 
 
 One spring, Firehole, attracted more attention than the 
 others. At what seems to be a distance of from 15 to 20 
 feet down, there can be seen a blue-blaze torch, appar- 
 ently as long and round as a man's arm. Another spring 
 close by, when sand is thrown into it, makes a noise and 
 sizzles like salt when thrown onto a hot stove. 
 
 Ten miles further brought us to Upper Geyser Basin, 
 the largest of the several basins located in Yellowstone, 
 and containing 26 geysers and upwards of 400 hot 
 springs. The names of those geysers whose waters rise 
 to a height of 100 feet and more are Giant, 250; Bee 
 Hive, 200; Splendid, 200; Giantess, 150; Riverside, 100; 
 Grand, 200; Surprise, 100; Cliff, 100, and Old Faithful, 
 150 feet, the most popular geyser of them all. These 
 perform at intervals of from an hour to 25 days. 
 
 Old Faithful, located not far from the hotel and tents, 
 "plays" every 63 minutes, with rarely a variation of five 
 minutes, day and night, summer and winter, and in sun- 
 shine and rain. Its crater is an oblong opening, 4x8 feet. 
 Its eruptions begin with a few spasmodic spurts, and 
 
41 
 
 these are followed every five to eight minutes by a col- 
 umn of hot water two feet in diameter, which is pro- 
 jected upward to a height of from 125 to 150 feet. It 
 then remains apparently stationary for about three min- 
 utes, and gradually recedes until the water in the crater is 
 as undisturbed as water in a pail. Geysers in this basin, 
 such as Grotto, Cascade and others, whose waters do not 
 rise more than from 10 to 30 feet, are pleasing to look 
 upon when in action, owing to the great volume of water 
 emitted. 
 
 The Upper and Lower Basins are practically one, being 
 about 12 miles long and several miles wide. The color- 
 ing about some of the geysers and springs is very pretty, 
 representing all the shades contained in the color list. 
 It is a sort of mineral vegetable growth, soft, like moss, 
 in some instances, and hard as stone in others. To pre- 
 vent the demolition of this natural painting, soldiers ac- 
 company each party of visitors, as there are several mil- 
 itary stations located in different sections of the park. 
 
 In charge of the hotel at Upper Basin was an Irishman, 
 known to me even before I met him, as "Larry." A full 
 day's stop is made here, and among the number of tour- 
 ists making the rounds of the park at that time was a 
 party of German Lutherans, headed by their bishop. Din- 
 ner was the first meal we ate at Larry's. The bishop was 
 a little late in reaching the dining-room, and, with the 
 exception of a vacant seat at the table at which he was to 
 sit, the room was filled. He was a man of striking ap- 
 pearance, being about 6 feet 3 inches in height, and 
 weighed 250 pounds. His gray whiskers, together with 
 the cloth of his profession, left no doubt as to his calling. 
 He appeared in the doorway, paused a moment, and then 
 proceeded toward the table at which he was to sit. Just 
 as he had reached the center of the room, Larry, our irre-. 
 pressible host, blurted out : ''Look out for the silverware ; 
 here comes the bishop!" 
 
42 
 
 It just happened at this time that ex-Governor Odell, 
 of New York, and party were going through Yellow- 
 stone. At a later meal, when the Governor entered the 
 dining-room, Larry cautioned the attendants of his pres- 
 ence in the same loud manner, the difference being "Look 
 out for the napkins ; here comes the Governor !" 
 
 Larry had built a platform, and after chores were all 
 done, the waitresses, teamsters, and, in fact, some of the 
 tourists, gathered for a regular old hoe-down, the or- 
 chestra being a fiddle, jewsharp, a much abused banjo, 
 and a mouth organ, Larry appearing in the role of an- 
 nouncer. Some of the visitors from the large cities had 
 not heard this kind of music nor enjoyed the privilege of 
 engaging in a shindig of this sort in years, and all seemed 
 to greatly enjoy it. 
 
 For sleeping quarters at this place, tents were used, a 
 piece of cloth serving as a partition between the "rooms." 
 A lady and gentleman occupied the "room" next to me. 
 The wife weighed fully 250 pounds, and the husband 
 100 to 125 pounds less. I was awakened early in the 
 morning by their talking, which was of the nature of a 
 mild family jangle, the wife accusing the husband of 
 having occupied seven-eighths of the bed during the 
 night, and he endeavoring in a kind, husbandly manner 
 to establish an alibi. Putting two and two together, I 
 gathered the wife had slept in the bed. I have never been 
 successful in reaching a satisfactory solution of how the 
 husband could have absorbed seven-eighths of the bed, 
 in view of the wife not having slept on the floor. Too 
 deep for me. 
 
 The third day's staging was begun quite early, as a 
 ride of over 40 miles was to be taken. Lunch was eaten 
 at Thumb Bay, on Yellowstone Lake. Here are found 
 small geysers, and more paint pots, the latter like those 
 in Lower Basin. Fish Cone, a small geyser, or spring, 
 is located here, right on the edge of the lake, against 
 
43 
 
 which the waves dash and recede. The Government has 
 the lake thickly stocked with fish, and from most any 
 place along the shore they can be caught with hook and 
 line, and, after caught, can be dipped into the water of 
 Fish Cone and cooked, without taking the fish off the 
 hook. 
 
 A small steamboat at this place conveys passengers who 
 wish to take the water ride to Lake Hotel, 15 or 20 miles 
 distant. Three dollars is charged for this ride, which is 
 exorbitant, as half that sum would be a good price. Tour- 
 ists need not patronize the boat route, however, as their 
 stages continue to Lake Hotel, which is reached late in 
 the afternoon. 
 
 Lake Hotel is also a night station, and is located at 
 the easterly outlet of the lake, or head waters of the Yel- 
 lowstone River. The garbage of the hotels is carried 
 about a quarter of a mile away, and bears can be seen 
 feeding here during the day, and particularly in the even- 
 ing. The first order of attraction on the program after 
 eating the evening meal is to go see the bears. At the 
 Lake Hotel garbage depository was a bear with two cubs. 
 One of the cubs started up a tree, a proceeding which 
 Mother Bear did not approve of, rapping the youngster 
 about the ears with her paw. The cub again started 
 up the tree, and succeeded in reaching the first limb. The 
 m.other followed, catching up with the cub, and threw 
 the obstreperous "kid" to the ground. The park is full 
 of wild animals, but they are protected by Government 
 gamekeepers. 
 
 In the morning a start was made for Canyon Hotel, 
 the road following the Yellowstone River most all the 
 way. Sulphur Mountain was passed, a high hill, con- 
 taining thousands of tons of the chemical after which it 
 is named. Noon time found us at Canyon Hotel, where 
 the remainder of the day was spent, and where no time 
 can be spent more delightfully, for we are at Grand Can- 
 von of the Yellowstone. 
 
44 
 
 The canyon begins with Lower Yellowstone Falls. 
 Some distance above the falls the river is 200 feet wide, 
 but narrows to half that distance where the water makes 
 its 360-foot plunge downward. The water is of a blue- 
 green color, and on either side its high banks are tinted 
 with the softest shades imaginable. Veteran travelers 
 unreservedly pronounce this the acme of Nature's color- 
 ing. Orange, lemon and red are the contrasting shades, 
 and they seem to blend perfectly. It seems as if a velvety 
 brush had been dipped in a golden chalice containing 
 liquid of a saffron hue, with which the walls were tinted in 
 the mellow light of an orange sun by day and a harvest 
 moon by night. The diamond-like spray from this blue- 
 green river sublimely harmonizes with the soft, light- 
 shaded banks, and no emerald waters are so kissed by 
 shades from such delicately painted walls. 
 
 In height, these falls do not exceed Vernal Falls of Yo- 
 semite Valley, the lowest water descent of importance to 
 be found there. But the volume of water passing over 
 Lower Yellowstone is much greater than any in Yo- 
 semite. It is the peerless coloring of the banks that make 
 the scene one never to be forgotten. The height of the 
 walls through which the river runs is from 1,200 to 1,500 
 feet, and they are painted in the manner I have weakly 
 attempted to describe for a distance of from two to three 
 miles. 
 
 An early start was made the next morning for Norris 
 Basin. From a distance it resembles a manufacturing 
 center, as its area above is filled with steam. 
 
 In the nature of geysers, here is found something dif- 
 ferent from those seen in the other basins. This geyser 
 is called the Black Growler, with a chimney-shaped 
 opening, out of which is emitted a great volume of steam, 
 and producing a peculiar growling sound. The deposit 
 surrounding the edge of this crater is, at times, of inky 
 blackness, evidently the origin of its name. Hurricane, 
 
45 
 
 a similar geyser, is a few feet northward, with irregular 
 eruptions. The deposit of this spouter destroys the sur- 
 rounding vegetation and foliage. 
 
 Monarch geyser, the king of geysers in Norris Basin, 
 consists of two oblong openings, the largest of which is 
 20 feet long and 3 feet wide. Eruptions of the Monarch 
 occur without warning, and consists of a series of ex- 
 plosions, frequently more than a dozen, in which columns 
 of water are thrown 100 feet high. The intervals of 
 eruptions are about 12 hours. 
 
 We leave Norris Basin for Dwelle, at which place we 
 arrive late in the evening, a ride of 45 miles. By way 
 of Norris, tourists go to Gardiner also. 
 
 The next day was consumed in returning to Monida, 
 where a train was boarded, and, riding all night, I got 
 back to Salt Lake the next day. 
 
 COLORADO SPRINGS, COL, 
 
 Upon my return to Salt Lake, I went to work on the 
 "Herald," a Mormon paper. I earned $60, and started 
 eastward for Colorado Springs, a 24-hour ride, part of 
 which was through splendid mountain scenery. 
 
 There is no more popular place for tourists than this, 
 affording fine mountain scenery, pure water, cool climate, 
 free music, and an abundance of parks in which to rest, 
 and where outdoor visiting can be enjoyed. Here, like 
 in most all the Western cities, there can be seen no signs 
 "Keep off the grass !" But to those who have viewed the 
 scenery in the places I have mentioned previously, the 
 features in the vicinity of Colorado Springs, while widely 
 known, are not so noteworthy. Suffice it to say, however, 
 the scenery offered to the visitor in South Cheyenne Can- 
 yon is as interesting as can be found outside of the more 
 famous places. The seven falls here, within a distance 
 of some 300 odd feet, are perhaps not to be found else- 
 where in the world, while the Pillars of Hercules, on 
 
46 
 
 either side of the entrance, make the place impressive. 
 Williams' Canyon offers scenic interest in a small way, 
 while the Garden of the Gods is much out of the ordinary, 
 and perhaps alone of its kind. The high red rocks at the 
 eastward entrance, with the outline of two camel's heads 
 coming together, or, more correctly speaking, ''The Kiss- 
 ing Camels/' are not to be seen elsewhere in North 
 America. 
 
 The springs at Manitou, six miles from Colorado 
 Springs, and located right at the base of Pike's Peak, 
 claim a great patronage. These are soda springs, and 
 contain many healing properties for numerous physical 
 ailments. A cordon of hotels surrounds the vicinity where 
 the water gushes upward from the ground, and are well 
 filled with guests during the summer season. They put 
 up at the hotels in Manitou to be close to the springs. 
 Any time of day and evening, people can be seen coming 
 from every direction, bearing bottles in their arms, or 
 carrying them by string or strap tied to the necks of 
 bottles. They fill these at the springs, and then take 
 them to their place of abode. The medicinal properties of 
 the soda springs at Manitou are widely known. 
 
 PIKERS PEAK, 
 
 To revel in savage manual labor, climbing Pike's Peak 
 in less than six hours will suit the ardor of the strongest. 
 It is as tough an undertaking as the steepest trails of 
 Yosemite. At 8 135 A. M. I started from Manitou for the 
 summit of Pike's Peak, and reached the top in less than 
 six hours. I met people returning, w^ho had gone up 
 the night before to be there in the morning in time to see 
 the sun rise from the summit. I had reached Half- Way 
 House (which is in reality but one-third of the way), 
 when I was advised to turn back. "It's something 
 awful!" "It's frightful to attempt to ascend it!" and 
 similar other terms of discouragement came from those 
 
47 
 
 I met returning. I proceeded onward. Further up, I 
 came across tired travelers, some boiling coffee and cook- 
 ing light lunch : in fact, human hulks and derelicts were 
 strewn along the grade at frequent intervals. Some had 
 been on the road from lo to i8 hours, and had not gotten 
 more than half way, with little probability of getting any 
 higher, the effects of the air now being felt. 
 
 A fact that proved interesting to me was that, at about 
 1 1, GOO feet above sea level, all vegetation ceased, and the 
 eye rested on nothing but bare, brown rock. In a dis- 
 tance of not more than a few hundred yards, the timber 
 growth dwindles from ordinary sized trees to scrubs. This 
 is commonly known as ''timber line" in the West. 
 
 A couple of miles from the top, Windy Point was 
 reached, and from here upward is where the shoe begins 
 to pinch. Between here and the summit heavy showers 
 of rain and sleet are generally encountered. 
 
 Further up, for the first time in my life, I was traveling 
 through clouds. They proved to be a thick, heavy mist. 
 They would pass away, and again the sun would appear ; 
 but only for a short time before another cloud would 
 envelop one's surroundings. Each step at this time seemed 
 a hundred yards, for the air was very light. The top 
 was finally reached — a welcome goal. Here a log house 
 stands, and is used as a restaurant and temporary hotel. 
 About the room are several couches, which are nearly 
 always occupied, as a great number of people become 
 affected with the rarified air. I could have gone up 
 without this terrible climb, but I felt I could not afford the 
 $5 charge to ride on the cog-wheel car. 
 
 A short distance before the platform of the house is 
 reached, a man trying a door is noticed ; but little or no 
 attention is paid to his movements. It is the first door 
 reached by the traveler, which he attempts to open, but 
 finds it locked. He tries the next one ; also locked. One 
 is finally reached that seems accessible, but guarded by 
 
48 
 
 a servant. An entrance is gained, however, but a chilly 
 welcome given. 
 
 I sat on a stool at the lunch counter. The waiter asked 
 me what I wished to eat. I ordered a steak, expecting 
 to pay at least a dollar for it. I was informed they had 
 no steak, neither chops, ham, nor eggs, and no cold 
 meat was left over from dinner, after giving my orders 
 in rotation. Doughnuts, ham sandwiches, pie and coffee 
 were all I could buy in the way of food. I ate two sand- 
 wiches, two orders of doughnuts, and drank two cups of 
 coffee, 90 cents being the charge, 15 cents for each order. 
 A short time after I had finished eating, the cog-wheel car 
 arrived, when there appeared on the same counter from, 
 which I had eaten an abundance of cold roast beef, 
 boiled eggs, cold ham, etc., for the passengers, the food 
 I first called for, but which they refused to serve or sell. 
 
 Between the lines, the reader will perceive that Pike's 
 Peak foot travelers' patronage is not desired at the res- 
 taurant on top of the peak. A charge of $5 is levied to 
 carry passengers up and down on the cog-wheel car, the 
 same parties owning the restaurant, all those obstacles 
 and inconveniences being put in the way and encountered 
 for the purpose of discouraging people from climbing the 
 mountain who cannot afford to pay the $5 to ride. 
 
 As I have intimated above, parties start up the peak in 
 the evening to be there in time to see the sun rise the next 
 morning. Upon reaching the summit, each pedestrian is 
 charged 25 cents before a door can be entered. Should 
 they for any cause later be compelled to leave the house, 
 and wish to re-enter, an additional 25 cents is exacted. 
 That's the hold-up a foot traveler is forced to meekly 
 submit to at the log house on top of Pike's Peak. 
 
 On the top the air is cold, sleet nearly always accom- 
 panying rain, with terrific lightning and thunder. The 
 bare, brown summit of this high mountain looks odd, as 
 other mountains westward not nearly as high, are always 
 
49 
 
 white with snow. A wide view is had of the surround- 
 ing country from this high point. Colorado Springs, to 
 the eastward, looked like a checker-board, while at the 
 foot on another side, but at a much higher altitude, is 
 Cripple Creek and Altman, the latter boasting the dis- 
 tinction of being the only incorporated town in America 
 at an altitude of ii,ooo feet. The height of Pike's Peak 
 is said to be 14,300 feet. 
 
 UNION PRINTERS* HOME. 
 
 A mile from Colorado Springs is located the Childs- 
 Drexel Home for Union Printers, the only retreat of its 
 kind owned by a labor organization in the world. A 
 donation of $10,000 was made some 12 to 15 years ago for 
 its erection by the late George W. Childs, former owner 
 of the "Philadelphia Public Ledger" for years before his 
 death, and Anthony J. Drexel, banker, and his business 
 partner. Improvements have been made and extensions 
 added since that time, until at the present the total sum 
 represented in the benefaction amounts to some $600,000. 
 The main building, annex and superintendent's building 
 comprise the home. Nicely laid out and well kept grounds 
 surround it. Then there are the usual auxiliaries that 
 go with institutions of this kind, such as barns, laun- 
 dry, etc. 
 
 The annex is exclusively set apart for the housing and 
 keeping of the consumptive members. They are not pro- 
 hibited, however, from associating with inmates not so 
 afflicted, but they must eat and sleep in the building set 
 apart for inmates with this ailment. When strolling about 
 the grounds or resting in the summer houses, rigid rules 
 against spitting are in force. Each patient is provided 
 with a tin box, little larger than the ordinary mustard 
 box. Placed inside is a paper casing, and into this por- 
 table cuspidor the patient spits. When entering the build- 
 ing at certain hours, each patient places his box in a 
 
50 
 
 regularly designated place, and takes away with him .a 
 fresh or clean one. The used, thick paper casing is taken 
 out of the box later and burned. 
 
 I took dinner with the consumptive inmates. The 
 food was plain and wholesome. None of the patients 
 seemed to drink tea or coflFee at meal time, a glass of 
 milk being opposite each plate. Like all persons affected 
 with this dreadful disease, they will tell you it is hard for 
 them to understand why they are inmates of the annex. 
 Only a minority of the inmates of this home, however, are 
 so afflicted. 
 
 No work is required of them. Besides, they are fur- 
 nished with clothing, linen, etc., and receive from 50 
 cents to $1 a week, with which to buy tobacco or any 
 small articles they may need. The home is furnished with 
 a library, and places for light amusement for the inmates. 
 A quarter section of land surrounds it, and it is solely 
 maintained by the membership of the International 
 Typographical Union. 
 
 The eastern base of the Rocky Mountains is the first 
 station reached upon entering the "tuberculine country," 
 through the most part of which I later pass. Colorado 
 Springs and Denver are the first stopping places for con- 
 sumptives in this section. 
 
 DENVER, COL, 
 
 Having spent eight days in sightseeing in and about 
 Colorado Springs on the money I earned the last two 
 weeks I was in Salt Lake, my next stopping place was 
 Denver. My plans called for a seven-weeks' stay in this 
 city, with the object of earning and saving enough money 
 to take me to the City of Mexico, where I was due to 
 arrive December ist. this being August 20th. 
 
 Denver is perhaps the largest small city in the United 
 States. With a population not exceeding 150,000, its 
 business district, wholesale and retail, embraces territory. 
 
51 
 
 and occupies as many buildings as is covered in cities 
 with double the number of inhabitants. This is owing 
 to its being a considerable distance from any large city, 
 and because it is a supplying center for the great mining 
 district. It is situated twenty miles from the base of the 
 Rocky Mountains, but they look no further than from 
 eight to ten miles distant. The climate in the summer 
 season is delightful, being slightly warmer than that pre- 
 vailing at Colorado Springs. Its business blocks are sub- 
 stantial, and a feature of its residential section is the 
 two-story brick houses. Few frame buildings are to be 
 found in the capital of the Centennial State. Its streets 
 are in first-class condition, in most instances asphalted. 
 The number of people seen on the streets every afternoon 
 give it the appearance of a Saturday crowd. 
 
 Taking an electric car to the end of South Broadway, 
 lands one some distance in the suburbs. The car line from 
 here is continued with a small, old rickety car drawn by 
 a horse. The grade is upward nearly to the end of the 
 extension. Returning, mister wise horse carefully steps 
 on the rear platform of the car. When he is safely footed, 
 the car is started down the grade, he not making a move 
 until the foot of the incline is reached. There mister wise 
 horse steps off, unassisted, is again hooked to the car, 
 pulls it up, and rides down again. This unusual incident 
 has taken place for years. 
 
 I found work the second day after reaching this place, 
 and did not lose a day's time until I left, when the seven 
 weeks for which my itinerary called for had expired. I 
 had fattened my purse nicely. 
 
 PUEBLO. COL. 
 
 October 3d, I left Denver for Pueblo, the "Pittsburg of 
 the West," for here is located the largest smelters west 
 of the Mississippi River. The Colorado Fuel and Iron 
 Company's plant is located in this city. 
 
52 
 
 Here came under my observation naturally paved 
 streets. The soil is that used in adobe buildings. It is 
 impervious to water; the heavier the rain, the harder the 
 clay becomes. 
 
 ROYAL GORGE, 
 
 While at Pueblo I made a trip to Canyon City, where 
 a short distance westward, begins Royal Gorge. It seems 
 as if this pass through the mountains might have 
 specially been made to save a railroad company the 
 expense of tunneling. 
 
 The Gorge is six or eight miles long, through which 
 runs the Arkansas River, and alongside it a railroad is 
 built. The walls are from 500 to 600 feet in height, for 
 the most part perpendicular. A hanging bridge, sup- 
 ported from the top, marks the western end of the gorge. 
 A large beam, fastened in the wall, extends over the 
 track, like the beam of a scale. Depending from the 
 end is an iron rod some three inches in diameter, which 
 is bolted to a beam extending under the trestle. There 
 is but oen foundation under the trestle. Instead of im- 
 mediately under the rail, the single foundation is between 
 the rails, or middle of the track. It is said this is the 
 only bridge of its kind in the world. 
 
 So narrow is the gorge and so close do the sides of the 
 cars come to the walls, that a new dining car, a little 
 wider than the ones used on the road, came in contact 
 with the wall of the gorge at a short bend, delaying the 
 train until the jutting rock was chiseled away. Seldom 
 does the smoke from the engines get outside the walls, 
 and they are black as soot in the narrow places. I 
 walked all through Royal Gorge and back to Canyon 
 City, returning to Pueblo. 
 
 ALBUQUERQUEt N. M. 
 I remained five days in Pueblo, securing but one night's 
 work. I then bought a ticket to Albuquerque, N. M., 
 
53 
 
 and reached this place the opening day of the Territorial 
 Fair, where I found the city full of cowboys, gamblers, 
 bunco-steerers, montebanks, Navajo Indians, Mexicans, 
 and all sorts of people who frequent affairs of this kind 
 in the West. Reaching there at night, I was unable to 
 secure a room at the hotels, owing to the large number 
 of people in the city to be present at the Fair. x\fter an 
 hour's search, I found the office of the morning paper. 
 I related to the foreman of the composing room my ina- 
 bility to secure a room. He told me there was a stock- 
 room at the side of the building which was at my pleas- 
 ure. It being now midnight, space in the stockroom was 
 much appreciated. By arranging reams of paper in bed- 
 like fashion, and, finding a piece of flag bunting which 
 I used for a pillow, I went to "bed," using my over- 
 coat for a covering. I arose early to seek a room, as I 
 was scheduled to remain in this place two weeks. After 
 tramping about the outskirts of the city an hour or more, 
 I found a room for rent, which I engaged. Like most 
 places under similar circumstances, every one seeks to 
 become rich in a week, so three prices were charged 
 for ever^^thing. 
 
 The features on the Fair program in which the most 
 interest was taken were cattle "roping" and broncho 
 busting. The cattle used were kept in a corral inside the 
 fair grounds. Each "roper's" name was announced by 
 an officer as it appeared on the program. At the open, 
 or inside, entrance of the corral, the roper, on his steed, 
 with lasso coiled, would take his stand. When the 
 corral keeper was given the word to turn lose a steer, 
 the gate was opened. The hurry-up manner in which the 
 steer flew through the exit and into the grounds seemed 
 as if he might have had wings. Those animals were right 
 off the plains. 
 
 The rules governing roping contests provide for the 
 steer having a lead of 50 feet, which is clearly marked. 
 
54 
 
 When the steer reached this mark, the roper spurred his 
 horse, who seemed to jump several feet into the air, and 
 lo fairly fly after the fleet-footed bovine. On they speed, 
 the roper sinking- his spurs deeper into his horse's side 
 to catch the steer. The latter at this time, with tail and 
 head erect, is leaving a streak of dust behind. The roper 
 is closing the space between him and the steer. The hoop- 
 like rope is moving through space in the direction of the 
 steer's horns. The animal is lassoed. The horse sharply 
 turns. The steer is seen taking a sidewise somersault. 
 The rider is off his horse in an instant and at the steer's 
 hind legs, tying them together with a short piece of rope. 
 Then to the forelegs, tying them in the same manner. 
 The steer lies helpless. The roper's right hand appears 
 above his head, indicating the steer is roped. While the 
 judges are on their way to the animal to inspect the work- 
 manship of the roper, the latter has unloosened his lasso 
 from the steer's horns, and, coiling the hem.p, mounts his 
 horse and rides away. After the judges have satisfied 
 themselves as to the grade of workmanship before them, 
 they untie the ropes, give the prostrate animal a kick 
 to stir him up, when he jumps to his feet, and away 
 he runs. The tim.e for which the roper is credited is 
 the period that takes place between the steer's reaching 
 the 50-foot mark and the holding up of the roper's hand. 
 Should the roper move forward before the steer has 
 reached the mark, he is disqualified. Even should the 
 steer be securely tied, if the roping is of a slovenly nature, 
 it counts against him when awarding the purse. 
 
 A steer has little chance of regaining his feet after 
 having been thrown by a horse well trained. One end of 
 the rope is securely fastened to the horn of the saddle. 
 After the rider is sure the lasso thrown is successful, the 
 sharp turn made by the horse throws the steer. Before 
 the roper has reached the steer, the horse is apparently 
 walking away from the animal, and by so doing keeping 
 
 the 
 
55 
 
 the rope so tight that the steer cannot regain his feet. 
 In one roping event the horse actually dragged the steer. 
 In fact, it was eating grass at the same time. The human- 
 like intelligence of these horses almost outshone the skill 
 of the ropers. The record for roping a steer is 39 sec- 
 onds. The best time made in the Albuquerque events 
 was 49 seconds ; some were two minutes, and others 
 failed to get near enough to the steer to even throw the 
 lasso. 
 
 The rules governing broncho busting are also very 
 strict. For instance, should a rider touch the horn after 
 throwing his righe leg over the saddle, he is disqualified. 
 
 There was an event in which only Navajo Indians took 
 part. This was lassoing wild horses, saddling and riding 
 them. The lasso was about 75 feet long. The throw, being 
 successful, which it proved to be in most cases, the horse 
 would run off. Should the animal be too fleet for the In- 
 dian to retain his feet, the Navajo would sit down and 
 allow the horse to drag him all about the grounds. 
 A long-winded horse would be brought under subjection 
 by another rope being thrown over his head by a second 
 Indian. It would not be long before the Navajo would 
 be at the horse's side. A short time later the saddle 
 would be thrown on, and then a bucking broncho, with 
 head to the ground and hind feet in the air, is aimlessly 
 bounding up and down, with an Indian glued-like to its 
 back. 
 
 While no restriction is placed on gambling in Albu- 
 querque at any time, during fair season, which lasts a 
 week, well — they never heard of a "lid." A strange cus- 
 tom prevails on these occasions that I had never before 
 heard nor read of. The last night of the closing of the 
 fair festival is "women's night." This means that women 
 are allowed to visit reputable or disreputable places of 
 Albuquerque. Scores of veiled women, accompanied by 
 their husbands, can be seen parading from one gambling 
 
56 
 
 house to the other. Indeed, almost equally as many wear 
 no veil. This is the only night in the year, however, 
 when the "lid" is oif to women. 
 
 Consumptives come to this place in considerable num- 
 bers. It is the only place where I have ever distinctively 
 noticed a difference in the air. The freedom in breathing 
 may best be compared to that of drinking through a straw 
 clogged up and one free from an impediment. 
 
 The immediate country surrounding Albuquerque and 
 further to the westward is known as the land of the 
 mirage. While traveling over this section, it is not an 
 infrequent sight to see ahead a clear, glassy watery ex- 
 panse — like a large lake ; or, again, what looks like a 
 dense forest growing out of the parched, sandy plains ; 
 an unbroken stretch of clouds resting lazily upon the 
 earth, a steepled city rising above what appears like a 
 low mountain range, and sometimes rainbows that seem 
 to extend from one side of the globe to the other loom up. 
 One unaccustomed to such illusions will keep looking at 
 this chimera for half a da)^ at a time, but never reach! 
 what seems so plain to view. Mirages are more pro- 
 nounced through this part of North America than any- 
 where else. 
 
 Of a number of press mentions I received while mak- 
 ing my trip, the first appeared in the "Journal" in this 
 place after I had left Albuquerque. 
 
 Here was a critical stage of my trip. I could not learn 
 exactly what demands the seeing of Grand Canyon of 
 Arizona would make on my savings, and I knew railroad 
 fare was 6 cents a mile through New Mexico and Ari- 
 zona, with Phoenix the only place where I could expect 
 a chance to work. However, I decided to see Grand 
 Canyon and take the risk. 
 
 GRAND CANYON, ARIZ. 
 
 Having worked full time on a m.orning paper during 
 my two weeks' stay in Albuquerque, I continued west- 
 
57 
 
 ward to Williams, Ariz. Here I changed cars and 
 boarded another train in waiting. Three hours' ride 
 northward found me at Bright Angel station, Grand 
 Canyon of Arizona, "the greatest thing in the world." 
 
 One familiar with scenery of this character, would 
 naturally expect to find it in severe mountain fastnesses. 
 But this great, awful, picturesque gash in the earth has 
 been gnarled out of a high level plateau by the Colorado 
 River, which is owing to this noted feature at times being 
 called Grand Canyon of the Colorado. 
 
 The edge of the canyon is commonly termed the "rim," 
 and if a straight line were run from the "rim" to a point 
 directly above the river, the distance between them would 
 be from 5,000 to 7,000 feet. The distance across this 
 seemingly unlimited chasm is from 10 to 20 miles, and 
 in length 217 miles. 
 
 Bright Angel, the place at which the railway ends, 
 is the most frequented, because it is the only point 
 touched by a railroad, until recently, stages being the 
 mode of travel. The canyon was first partially explored 
 by one Lieutenant Ives in 1857, but not until 1869 was 
 it intelligently made known to the world. The number 
 of tourists who visit this wonder are few compared 
 to those who patronize Yosemite and Yellowstone and 
 other popular features of the country. 
 
 There are two ways in which the canyon can be seen. 
 The majority of people who come to see it never get into 
 the canyon, stopping between trains, from 4 o'clock in 
 the afternoon until 9 o'clock the next morning. This 
 time permits of only a view from the rim. To see this 
 chasm right, a visit must be made into it. Four or five 
 days' time in, through, and over it from various points, 
 is not too long a period to tarry among, and ponder 
 over, the magnificence and awfulness of this, the greatest 
 thing of its kind in the world. 
 
 From the rim to the river over Bright Angel trail is 
 
58 
 
 four miles. The walls between which the waters run 
 is from 1,200 to 1,500 feet high, and some parts are of 
 black granite. There is but one other place in the world 
 where granite of this color is said to be found — in Switz- 
 erland. It is black as walls of coal, and hard as steel. The 
 river in some places is 200 feet in width. A tremendous 
 volume of water at certain seasons of the year flows be- 
 tween those walls, as driftwood (huge logs) can be seen 
 resting on ledges 40 and 50 feet above the water at normal 
 stages. To geologists, the black granite feature at this 
 point is of unusual importance. From but few points 
 of the "rim" the river can be seen, when it resembles a 
 piece of white cord. After having reached the river's 
 edge, it can be seen only for a distance of from 100 feet 
 to 50 yards, so crooked is its course and high its walls. 
 
 But it is the varied colorings of the formations on 
 which the eye feasts. Green, red, yellow, blue, lavender, 
 purple, alabaster — in fact, more colors than in a rain- 
 bow. Some of the seams of formations in the wall are 
 from 100 to 1,500 feet thick. Hundreds of painted 
 mountain castles rise before one; and when all might 
 seem to be in view others momentarily spring up — ap- 
 parently no end to them. 
 
 A short distance off the trail on either side when about 
 a mile from the river is located the abandoned homes 
 of the Cliff Dwellers. They are situated on cliffs, the 
 stone above serving the purpose of a roof. In most in- 
 stances the space between the ledges are low, necessita- 
 ting passing from one apartment to the other on all fours, 
 and in other instances the space will not permit of this. 
 The partitions are made of clay, rough, without further 
 labor being used than merely piling it to a height of two 
 feet in places and about six inches thick. Digging into the 
 dirt on the floors and raking it, often brings to light 
 pieces of crockery, stone arrow heads and bones. High 
 above where the Cliff Dwellers lived can be seen small 
 
 '.; 
 
59 
 
 mud buildings, sometimes not over a foot square, which, 
 one is apt to conclude, were built and used for the pur- 
 pose of concealing valuables, for, it seems, only a bird 
 could reach them.. Judging from the nature of their 
 abodes, the Cliff Dwellers must have been a diminutive 
 race. 
 
 From Grand view, 17 miles northward from Bright 
 Angel, I obtained m}^ best view of the canyon. The 
 shades on the castle-like mountains seemed to be chang- 
 ing all the while, the coloring more beautiful with each 
 shifting. It was about 4 o'clock in the afternoon in the 
 latter part of October when I left this place, and after 
 alternating from shade to shade for some time before, 
 the air of the abyss below was transformed to a pale blue. 
 
 Were Yosemite Valley, Yellowstone Park, Niagara 
 Falls, Pike's Peak, and other scenic and interesting places 
 all dumped into Grand Canyon of Arizona, without one 
 knew of it, it is doubtful, with the exception of Pike's 
 Peak, could they be noticed the next day by even one 
 familiar with the place. 
 
 It must be seen to be appreciated, as a description of 
 it will find but a temporary lodgment impaled on a pro- 
 jection from a scenic cliff of the human mind. 
 
 PRESCOTT, ARIZ. 
 
 After a five days' stay in and above this picturesque 
 gash in the earth, I boarded a train for Williams, to Ash 
 Fork, and down to Prescott, Ariz. The population of 
 this place is not more than 5,000 inhabitants, but con- 
 siderable business is transacted here. Not far in the 
 mountains is located the United Verde and other rich 
 mines, and Prescott is the supplying center for mining 
 machinery, foodstuffs and material of all kinds used in 
 settlements of this district. Prescott is the only place I 
 know of where 5,000 inhabitants support three daily nev/s- 
 papers. 
 
6o 
 PHOENIX, ARIZ. 
 
 After spending a day in this hustling mountain "city," 
 I boarded a train for Phoenix, the Territorial capital, the 
 Mecca for consumptives in the fall and winter seasons, 
 it has the largest ostrich farm in the country, and is the 
 hottest place of its size in North America. 
 
 Phoenix's population is perhaps 8,000 or 10,000 during 
 the summer season, and 4,000 or 5,000 greater during the 
 fall and winter. With the exception of Hot Springs, 
 Ark., it is in a class by itself — the capital of the ''tuber- 
 culine belt." 
 
 In the hotel at which I roomed were numbers of "silent 
 sufferers." A day or two after I had reached this place, 
 while sitting on the porch, was a man in the last 
 stages of consumption, scarcely able to brush the flies 
 off. He seemed to wish to converse with me. Finally, 
 looking straight at me, he asked: "What seems to be 
 the trouble?" I was enjoying perfect health, and looked 
 it. It is taken for granted that any one who stops in 
 Phoenix is there for his health. 
 
 I went to work at once on a morning paper. Coming 
 to my room every morning after work, at 3 A. M., on 
 each side of the halls could be heard the soft "hack, 
 hack," followed by a "hawk, hawk." A strong odor of 
 disinfectant pervaded the whole place. The place seemed 
 as if it were a sub-station of a morgue. 
 
 I asked one young fellow, who was doomed, how he 
 was getting along. He described to me the size of the 
 steak he had eaten for supper, and further said he had 
 written his father, "If tenderloin steaks and good whisky 
 hold out, I think I will come out all right in the 
 springtime." He never overlooked an opportunity of 
 advising his fellow sufferers to acquire the whisky-drink- 
 ing habit as a consumiptive cure. 
 
 Upon reaching my room one morning, I found the bed 
 the same as I had left it the day before. After getting 
 
6i 
 
 up, I made it a particular feature of the day's program 
 to call the landlady's attention to this neglect. She said 
 she knew it, and added : "When sick people are dying in 
 this house, fat fellows must wait !" One must needs be 
 callous-hearted who could think of making a reply, 
 knowing how good she was to those sufferers in their 
 dying moments. 
 
 Arrangements for taking care of the dead are made 
 with the undertaker a week before they pass away, and 
 their relatives and friends are notified several weeks in 
 advance. The bodies are in most instances taken out 
 of the hotels and rooming houses at night, and the back 
 way used almost entirely. They are carried in a large 
 basket used for this purpose. 
 
 There are others who go to Phoenix in the hope that 
 their lives may be prolonged, who, after a week's stay, 
 can be seen struggling up the few steps to the platform 
 of the car, praying they may reach home and see their 
 relatives before they die. This class have put off their 
 coming to Phoenix a season or two too long. In restau- 
 rants, barber shops, hotels, parks, streets — everywhere 
 one may look or turn can be seen the drooping, wasting, 
 pale-faced victims, but silent to the cause all the while. 
 The coming of these sufferers bring about "good times" 
 in Phoenix. 
 
 It was the first day of November when I reached the 
 Salt River metropolis, as Phoenix is called, and I re- 
 mained until the 23d inst. During that time the hydrant 
 water was of a lukewarm temperature, the thermometer 
 registering 85 to 90 degrees in the shade during the 
 day. In summer, the mercury rises as high as 120 de- 
 grees, and generally from 100 to 115 degrees. During 
 the hot season of Phoenix the "floating" winter inhab- 
 itants migrate to a cooler climate. 
 
 Dates, figs, pomegranates, oranges, lemons and other 
 tropical and semi-tropical fruits grow in Phoenix and ad- 
 jacent territory. 
 
62 
 
 In the court house and City Hall squares, oleanders 
 from 12 to 20 feet high grow, and were covered with 
 flowers at that time. Around the Territorial building 
 of Arizona the floral display in early winter is better 
 than found any other place in summer. It was estimated 
 there was 100,000 chrysanthemums in bloom about the 
 grounds, besides bending clusters of highly cultivated 
 roses, and large beds of blooming sweet peas. In addi- 
 tion, the grass sod was cleared away and grain sowed 
 in its place so it would be green during the legislative 
 session. Then orange trees bearing ripening fruit, floral 
 shrubbery, and more flowers, offer to the eye an early 
 winter scene to be found only in the tropics. 
 
 Sixty miles above Phoenix, and nearing completion, is 
 one of a number of great reservoirs the Government is 
 building throughout the arid West. This is known as 
 the Tonto dam, and when completed will represent an 
 outlay of $1,500,000. The nature of its construction is 
 the walling and cementing up of an opening of a canyon. 
 In the springtime a great quantity of water from the 
 melting snows run in and flows through this canyon. By 
 securely walling up the end, the water remains in this 
 basin. From this a large ditch for irrigation purposes 
 will be dug, and "feeders" all throughout Salt River 
 vallev and adjacent territory will carry water to refresh 
 and make valuable land that has heretofore been useless 
 for either grazing or crop purposes. 
 
 Nine miles from Phoenix I found the largest ostrich 
 farm in North America, the birds numbering 1,000. There 
 are smaller farms located here also. The chief diet of 
 these huge birds is alfalfa, a sort of clover, so productive 
 in the West. Two ostriches can live on a quarter of an 
 acre of alfalfa. In breeding time they are paired, a fence 
 separating each "couple." Whey laying time comes, the 
 male ostrich makes the nest. Often his selection is not of 
 the female's choice, and she will seek another place. But 
 
63 
 
 the male bird will brook no tomfoolery, and whips her to 
 the nest he has provided. A setting is composed of from 
 13 to 16 eggs, but 15 are all an ostrich can cover. They 
 take just twice as long to hatch as a hen's Qgg — six 
 weeks — and each egg weighs three pounds. 
 
 Strange as it may seem, the male bird is more mindful 
 of the embryonic feathery herd than the fem.ale. He sits 
 on the eggs nearly two-thirds of the time. Even then, 
 the male is compelled to force the female to her task of 
 sitting. The feathers are picked but three times in two 
 years, and a plucking does not bring more than $30. 
 Feathers plucked from young birds before six months old 
 are useless for commercial purposes. It is in the price of 
 the ostriches where the money interest lies, a pair being 
 worth from $2,000 to $3,000. 
 
 When a setting contains 16 eggs, one is taken away by 
 a keeper and placed in an incubator. While I was visit- 
 ing an incubator house, a chick was picking at the inside 
 of the shell, which was so thick that the chick was unable 
 to break it. The keeper used a sharp-pointed hammer to 
 break the shell. The mother bird, he said breaks them with 
 her breastbone, which is covered with little more than 
 the skin. The ostrich is quick and treacherous. They 
 aim to strike a man in the breast with their toe, and, if 
 there be nothing between him and the ostrich, he is sure 
 to be ripped open. They are deadly afraid of a dog. 
 
 A large Indian school is located a short distance from 
 Phoenix, where Indian boys and girls receive a good ed- 
 ucation, and the attendance is very encouraging to the 
 Government, which maintains it. 
 
 As stated above, I reached Phoenix the first day of 
 November, and left the 23d inst. I had worked 22 con- 
 tinuous nights, the pay being $4 per night, which, with 
 overtime, amounted to $90 in all. In addition to this, the 
 business manager of the paper on which I had worked 
 presented me upon leaving with a railroad pass to El 
 Paso, a saving of $20.40. Nice little pick-up. 
 
64 
 
 On the day I left I received a write-up in the "Repub- 
 lican," covering my trip up to this time. 
 
 EL PASO, TEX, 
 
 Thirty-five miles southward from Phoenix, at Mari- 
 copa, the main line of the Southern Pacific railroad was 
 reached, over which I traveled on my first move from 
 Washington to Los Angeles. The train from San Fran- 
 cisco eastward was due to arrive at this place at 1 130 
 A. M. The train was reported two hours late, and my- 
 self, like other passengers familiar with this uncertain 
 railroad quantity, engaged accommodations at a hotel for 
 the night, for we knew "two hours" meant in this case 
 all the time necessary to sleep and eat before we were 
 aboard. It was i o'clock in the afternoon before the 
 train reached Maricopa, twelve hours late. 
 
 We reached El Paso, Tex., the Gate City, at 7 A. M. 
 the next morning. I had stopped in this city some ten 
 years before, and readily observed it had not allowed 
 grass to grow under its feet during that time. Seattle, 
 Wash., had doubled its population, but El Paso had al- 
 most trebled hers in ten or twelve years. There is no 
 city in our country so free from competition. Its nearest 
 neighbors of consequence are Fort Worth and San An- 
 tonio, both over 600 miles distant. 
 
 El Paso has been well named the Gate City, for it is 
 1,200 miles from New Orleans, 1,200 from St. Louis, 
 800 miles from Denver, 1,200 miles from the City of 
 Mexico, and 1,200 miles from San Francisco. It is situ- 
 ated in the extreme northwest corner of Texas, a few 
 miles from which can be seen a large, erect stone, which 
 designates the boundarv line between the United States 
 and Mexico. 
 
 There are seven railroads entering this thrifty, commer- 
 cial child of the plains. Large smelters form one of its 
 chief industries. Its building blocks are good, and busi- 
 
65 
 
 ness activity is noticeable on every hand. Consumptives 
 in considerable numbers are present at every turn. 
 
 It may be interesting to note here the zigzag course I 
 had laid out in my itinerary, made necessary to enable 
 me to reach points of interest. For instance, Denver, 
 Col., is 1, 600 miles east of San Francisco. From Denver 
 to Albuquerque, N. M., I traveled southwesterly 523 
 miles, then westerly 444 miles to Grand Canyon of 
 Arizona; then 280 miles southward to Phoenix, Ariz. 
 At this point I was only 400 miles from Los Angeles. 
 Then from Phoenix eastward 435 miles to El Paso. From 
 here I started directly southward 1,225 niiles to the City 
 of Mexico, after a three days' stay. 
 
 MEXICO- 
 
 Thanksgiving Day overtook me, but I ate no turkey, 
 for at II o'clock A. M. on that day I started for the City 
 of Mexico. I met an old friend in El Paso who could 
 find no work and was without funds, and I prevailed upon 
 him to accompany me to Mexico's capital, where I 
 thought he might do better. 
 
 My earnings in Albuquerque, 22 continuous nights hi 
 Phoenix, and with what I had saved in Denver, enabled 
 me to reach the border strong in funds. I had $135 in 
 my possession, and felt quite sure this would carry both 
 myself and friend through. 
 
 How quickly the scene changes. Just across the Rio 
 Grande River, at Juarez, one-story adobe buildings, nar- 
 row, untidy streets, no sidewalks in some places, people 
 dark and silent, dressed in different pattern clothes and 
 of a poorer quality — all about, there seemed a great dif- 
 ference. Here the Mexican customs officers inspect the 
 baggage. And what a difference between them and some 
 of our customs officers ! The Mexican officers were so 
 careful not to disturb anything and do their duty at the 
 same time, that it might appear as if they thought cases, 
 valises, etc., contained snakes or tarantulas. 
 
66 
 
 The Mexican passenger trains are composed of three 
 different class cars — first, second and third. The first- 
 class cars are the ordinary day coaches used on the trains 
 this side of the border. The second-class cars are plain, 
 with board seats, which hold two people. The third- 
 class cars are also plain, with a partition between two 
 seats — back to back. The latter car was crowded. And 
 what a motley lot ! The women in most cases wore no 
 head covering, the men wore long, pointed hats and car- 
 ried a blanket. Some wore shoes, other sandals, and 
 many were barefooted. The odor that arose from the 
 third-class car might warrant the making of a wager of 
 lo to I that a clean man could not remain in this car 
 24 hours without falling a victim to typhoid fever, small- 
 pox, beri-beri, or yellow fever. Every mother's son of 
 them seemed, to be badly in need of a shave, haircut, 
 shampoo, and a hot water bath. Most of the occupants 
 of this car were peons, the lowest class of Mexicans. 
 
 A decided improvement can be noticed in the second- 
 class cars. Mostly the middle class of Mexicans (what 
 few there be of this grade) patronize this coach. In 
 addition to the regular passengers of this car can be no- 
 ticed half a dozen rough-looking Mexicans, who re- 
 semble a portable arsenal more than anything else one 
 might think of. In plain sight is a revolver in a holster, a 
 knife in a sheath, and a carbine, with strap attached, flung 
 over their shoulders. To say the least, they looked for- 
 midable. Such a sight will not strongly appeal to an 
 American as representing a high type of civilization. In- 
 quiry later as to what all this meant, brought out the 
 information they are the passengers' friend — a train 
 guard. Come to think of it, how often do we hear of a 
 train hold-up in Mexico ? These armed men are assigned 
 to each train to prevent this very thing. I felt much 
 easier when I learned of their mission, as they did not 
 look good to me before. 
 
67 
 
 The first-class coach seemed to be patronized entirely 
 by Americans in ordinary circumstances. Attached to 
 this coach was a Pullman car. The first-class coach con- 
 tains a stove, but no heat is furnished second and third- 
 class passengers. 
 
 Chihuahua was the first place of consequence reached 
 after leaving El Paso. Throughout the territory traveled 
 in coming to this place were arid plains, the dust sifting 
 through the windows until it was so thick one's name 
 could be plainly written with the point of the finger on 
 the shoulders of a dust-covered coat. In fact, from El 
 Paso to the City of Mexico is about as dusty a stretch 
 of traveling one can experience. 
 
 Plalf way southward we passed through a large cotton- 
 growing section. The character of the cotton grown in 
 Mexico is much different from that grown in the South- 
 em States of our country. In the latter, the seed must be 
 planted every season the same as grain and corn, while 
 in Mexico planting takes place but once in every eight 
 years, I was told, and the cotton is of a much higher grade 
 than ours. It is said the quality is equal to that of Egyp- 
 tian. 
 
 The eating- stations along the way were nearly all con- 
 ducted by Chinese. 
 
 The conductors on this road were Americans, while the 
 brakemen were Mexicans. 
 
 At Irapuato we stopped for a short while. On the 
 platform of the depot and on both sides of the train were 
 any number of peons selling strawberries. At any season 
 of the year, passengers can buy strawberries at this place, 
 and to travelers it has become known as the "Strawberry 
 Station." 
 
 CITY OF MEXICO- 
 
 After a 48-hour ride we reached the capital of Mexico. 
 Cabmen and hotel criers were here the same as at the 
 
68 
 
 stations in our own country, but were not so boisterous. 
 A high fence extends to the depot, through which vehicles 
 must pass in and out through a gate. A driver carrying 
 a passenger cannot pass through this gate until a police- 
 man takes the number of his cab, and any up-to-date 
 traveler will do likewise. This is done to protect visitors 
 from harm and to safeguard their property. Should bag- 
 gage or valuables of any kind be lost during the time the 
 cab is occupied, by reporting it to the police officers it 
 will soon be recovered. 
 
 Cab fare is graded, and so indicated by a small tin 
 flag on the driver's seat, and by painted bars on the sides 
 of the vehicle. A cab with yellow bars or flag is a 25- 
 cent cab. But only one fare can be collected, though 
 the cab might contain four people — 25 cents for four — 
 or 25 cents for one person. The cab with red flag and 
 bars is 50 cents — 50 cents for as many as can get inside. 
 The 75-cent cabs are blue and kept in a tidy manner. 
 
 At a hotel we tried to make the clerk understand we 
 wished to engage a room. He could not speak English, 
 and apparently did not seem to understand what we 
 wished. When leaving the office, two Mexican gentlemen 
 passed us. One overheard something we had said about 
 our failure to engage a room. This gentleman, who spoke 
 fair English, asked what the difficulty was. We explained. 
 Shortly he returned and told us it was because we could 
 not speak Spanish that they did not care to receive us, 
 and apologized for the lack of knowledge his countryman 
 displayed in entertaining strangers. He said he would 
 see that we secured a room. The clerk at the second 
 hotel we visited could speak no English, but the Mexican 
 gentleman did our talking for us. We were shown to a 
 room, and the gentleman who brought us to this place 
 also accompanied the clerk to the room assigned us. He 
 looked the room over, placed his hand on the bed springs 
 to see if they were all right, and then asked us if we 
 
69 
 
 were satisfied with our quarters. When we assured him 
 everything was satisfactory, he tipped his hat, poHtely 
 bowed, and started downstairs. This incident is cited to 
 give the reader an idea of Mexican hospitaHty. When 
 he escorted us to the hotel, we were in his charge. His 
 coming to our room was to see that our accommodations 
 were all right, thereby fulfilling his mission. 
 
 San Francisco street is the main thoroughfare of the 
 city. Like most all the streets, it is narrow, the side- 
 walks not being more than four or five feet wide. This 
 street is paved with asphalt. 
 
 Right in the heart of the city is located the Alameda, a 
 park, three blocks in length and one wide. It receives the 
 best of care. Large trees, shrubbery and flowers grow 
 here, with seats scattered all about the park. Large, 
 round, cement fountains are also located at short dis- 
 tances, but no cups out of which to drink are provided. 
 There is also a bandstand erected in the Alameda, and 
 music is furnished the public gratis three times a week 
 by a Government band. 
 
 Located in this park is also the lottery building. This 
 is a large, round building, more glass than wood. The 
 glass is of many different colors. The hawking of tickets 
 about the streets by the poorer class proves generally a 
 source of annoyance to people walking about. 
 
 The city has a population of some 400,000 inhabitants^, 
 about 10,000 of whom are English speaking. Americans 
 are in the majority, although there are a great number 
 of Englishmen in the city. 
 
 The City of Mexico is situated on a broad, high 
 plateau at an an altitude of 7,300 feet, surrounded by high 
 mountains about seventeen miles distant. This altitude 
 is over 2,000 feet higher than Denver, Col. 
 
 Few of the older buildings used for living purposes 
 are more than two stones, and a great number of them 
 not more than one story. The outside appearance of the 
 
70 
 
 buildings would lead one to believe they were made en- 
 tirely of mortar. No frame buildings are to be seen, ex- 
 cept in the newly built suburbs of the city. 
 
 The houses have a peculiar appearance — they almost 
 resemble forts. One house seems to take in an entire 
 block. The entrances from the street lead to a large 
 courtyard on the inside, and from this courtyard are the 
 entrances to the different apartments. The courtyards 
 have the appearance of an inside street, as it were. In 
 the large buildings and hotels, this court street or opening 
 extends through the block building— from one street to 
 the other. The windows and doors to the apartments 
 face the courtyard, thus affording light and fresh air 
 to all the roomis. All about the courtyards can be seen 
 flowers and creeping vines growing in pots and large 
 tubs, presenting a very pleasing appearance. 
 
 Evidence that the value of this method of obtaining 
 light and air in living apartments can be seen in some of 
 the larger cities in the East at the present time, and it is 
 only recently that builders in New York City have been 
 compelled by law to allow for spacious courts when build- 
 ing tenement houses, thus doing away with the dimly 
 lighted, unhealthy, stuffy rooms found in most of the ten- 
 ement houses. 
 
 The courtyards are covered with a stone flooring, and 
 by a city decree must be scrubbed twice daily ; and Mex- 
 ican decrees are obeyed, especially in this particular in- 
 stance, I observed. Carriage room and stables are also 
 contained in buildings of this kind. 
 
 The porters, or janitors, of these buildings sleep on 
 the inside of the courtyard. The entrance is closed at 
 lo P. M. After that hour admittance to the building is 
 gained only by awakening the porter. It can readily be 
 seen that there is little chance for thieves in Mexico under 
 this system, as no one but those known to occupy rooms 
 or apartments will be admitted. 
 
71 
 
 There are no chimneys to be seen in Mexico. The 
 stoves used are earthen pails, in which is placed charcoal, 
 the common fuel of the country. Oil and gas stoves, 
 however, are taking the place to some degree of these 
 charcoal buckets; but they will always be used by the 
 poor. 
 
 Flowers are always in bloom in Mexico, as the average 
 temperature is 65 degrees. There is very little difference 
 between winter and summer so far as the weather condi- 
 tions are concerned. 
 
 I remained in Mexico six weeks, and during all that 
 time I did not hear or read of a street hold-up at night. 
 It is almost impossible for this to occur. The members of 
 the police force number 1,700, and the area of the city 
 is not much greater than cities with half its population 
 on this side of the border. At night, on every block of 
 the city, with the exception, perhaps, of the suburbs, 
 a policeman can be seen. Each one carries a lantern 
 when going on duty, which he places in the center of 
 the square. In the daytime, the policemen are generally 
 to be found where the lanterns are at night. Each officer 
 is armed with a club and pistol, the latter exposed in a 
 holster. They are on duty 12 hours a day, for which they 
 receive $1.50. Besides policemen, the city and suburbs 
 are alive with soldiers and cavalrymen on duty. The 
 only class of shady characters in Mexico that the officers 
 cannot completely subdue, are pickpockets, who are said 
 to be the most deft of any in the world. 
 
 In no single instance of the arrests which came under 
 my observation did the policeman take hold of the pris- 
 oner. Should the officer be called to a house for any in- 
 fraction of law requiring an arrest, all who are present, 
 whether principals or not, are taken to the police station. 
 Should those fail to disclose to the authorities who the 
 offenders are, all are placed in jail and kept there until 
 the guilty parties are found. It is no uncommon sight 
 
72 
 
 to see from lo to 25 Mexicans walking alongside and 
 behind an officer on their way to a police station. Where 
 one swears out a warrant for the arrest of some one who 
 has done him a wrong, the party on whom the warrant is 
 served can swear out a counter-warrant. If the offenses 
 are but of the daily police court kind, a fine is imposed 
 on the beligerent known to have the most money. 
 
 A policeman in the Mexican capital does not warn an 
 offender more than once, and then in a low, quiet tone 
 of voice. No officious or bullying characteristics are no- 
 ticeable in police officers. Everything is done with but 
 few words, and those are spoken low. The easy man- 
 ner with which arrests are made, and the obedience of 
 offenders when under arrest, is accounted for by the 
 generally known fact that any attempt to run away 
 means probable death, as an officer will shoot in a mo- 
 ment at an attempt to escape, and their aim is known to 
 be excellent. 
 
 The street car system of the city is good. The cars 
 are all of the modern type, with air appliances. I boarded 
 a surburban car for Chapultepec, requesting the conduc- 
 tor to notify me upon reaching this station. From the 
 information I had previously received of the distance 
 from the city to this point, with the speed of the car, and 
 the length of time I had been riding, it occurred to me 
 the car had passed the place at which I wished to get off. 
 I asked an American passenger if we had reached Cha- 
 pultepec. He told me we were a mile beyond. No 
 streets, stations or places of any kind are announced by 
 conductors, and were they, it would be in so low a tone 
 of voice as to be inaudible two feet away. I waited at the 
 station at which I got off for a car going toward the city. 
 I boarded another car, and when I reached a building 
 along the way that looked different from the ordinary 
 country mansion, I decided this must be Chapultepec, so 
 alighted. I proved to be right. 
 
73 
 
 Chapiiltepec (Hill of the Grasshopper), the White 
 House of Mexico, is about three miles from the heart of 
 the city. This is a fine old castle, built on a hill, with 
 magnificent grounds surrounding it. Where Chapultepec 
 stands, was formerly the site of Moctezuma's favorite 
 park. Here also was the scene of a battle between United 
 States and Mexican troops in 1847. Situated on the 
 same hill stands the Military Academy. A young Mexi- 
 can cadet, who could speak some English, invited me to 
 take a trip through the building. I accompanied him, 
 and found it to be modern in every respect, but not large. 
 
 In the grounds surrounding Chapultepec grow large 
 cypress trees, covered with Spanish moss. One is 170 
 feet high and 46 feet around the trunk. An artificial 
 lake is here, and the walks and drives are in splendid con- 
 dition. This park is being enlarged every season. In 
 connection with it also is a zoological garden, but this 
 has room to grow. Here, as in the Alameda, Zocalo and 
 Paseo de la Reforma, music is dispensed several times a 
 week. 
 
 The most interesting building in the city is the Cathe- 
 dral, which faces the Zocalo, another city park. Also fac- 
 ing the park from another side is the capitol building 
 of Mexico. 
 
 The land on which the Cathedral is built was formerly 
 the site of the Aztec Temple, which the Spaniards razed 
 when the city was conquered in 1521. The first stone of 
 the present building was laid in 1573, and its final dedi- 
 cation took place in 1667. The towers were not com- 
 pleted, however, until 1791. The entire cost of the build- 
 ing was about $2,000,000. It measures 387 feet from north 
 to south, and 177 feet from east to west. Its interior 
 height is 179 feet, and has 90 pillars, each 35 feet in cir- 
 cumference, to support the roof. It has five knaves, 
 fourteen chapels, and six altars. The towers are 203 
 feet high. In the south tower are six bells, and in the 
 
74 
 
 north ten. Some of the bells are either tolling or ring- 
 ing a considerable portion of the day. They are not rung 
 by ropes being pulled, but by men pushing them back- 
 ward and forward, and at times turning them clear over. 
 Up to a few years ago the bells rang continuously. 
 
 The doors of the church during the day are always 
 open to both worshipers and visitors. It is doubtful if 
 there is a moment during the day when worshipers are 
 not found in the Cathedral. But several times when I vis- 
 ited it I saw no priests about the church. Churches are 
 very numerous in the city, not more than three or four 
 blocks apart. These churches are all of the Catholic 
 faith. In fact, I don't believe a Protestant church build- 
 ing is to be found. Methodist, Presb5^terian and others 
 of Protestant denomination hold mid-week and Sundav 
 services, but halls are used for this purpose. 
 
 The Cathedral of Guadalupe, named after the patron 
 saint of Mexico, is situated four miles from the city. The 
 doors of this church, like most all of the churches in 
 Mexico, are open from morning until night. There is 
 no church in Mexico so sacred to the masses than Guada- 
 lupe. 
 
 The origin of the erection of this church is related to 
 every visitor, and solemnly taught the young generation. 
 Back in the middle of the fifteenth centur}^ an Indian, 
 Juan Diego, was crossing the hill above where the church 
 stands, and on which the chapel is built, on his way to 
 the city. An apparition, the relator will tell, appeared 
 in the pathway, and instructed Juan to bear a message 
 to the bishop of the city to erect a church on the spot 
 where the church now stands. The bishop was slow to 
 believe the message brought by the Indian. But the latter 
 was firm, and would not depart from the "bishop's pres- 
 ence until he had assurance from him the instructions he 
 bore were entertained. The bishop instructed the Indian, 
 should the apparition appear to him a second time, to 
 bring with him some sign. 
 
75 
 
 Some time later Juan made another trip to the city, but 
 was particular not to come the way he traveled when 
 intercepted by the apparition. Nevertheless, the vision 
 again appeared, and the instructions concerning the build- 
 ing of the church were reiterated. He stated what took 
 place at the bishop's, and asked for a sign. He was told 
 to pluck flowers, growing all about him, although the 
 hill is sandy and barren of foliage of any kind. He did 
 as he was commanded, putting them in his tilma, Qr 
 blanket. After tying the ends of the blanket securely so 
 the flowers might not drop out by the wayside, he con- 
 tinued on his way toward the city and to the bishop. In 
 the presence of the latter he untied the ends of his tilma 
 for the purpose of disclosing to the bishop the sign. When 
 the blanket was opened, it was found to contain no flow- 
 ers. Instead, however, there appeared painted on the 
 tilma the flowers he had gathered about his feet on the 
 elevation when in the presence of the saint. One is told 
 this painted blanket is a masterpiece. When shown about 
 the church, the guide invariably points to a blanket as the 
 one on which the painted flowers appeared when first 
 opened in the bishop's presence by the Indian. ' The 
 church being quite dark, the coloring does not appear to 
 one as that related by the guide. 
 
 Around the altar of the church is a silver railing which 
 weighs 26 tons. To be seen on the incline of the hill just 
 above the church are two large stone sails, dedicated 
 in consummation of a vow made by a rich family in 
 gratitude for the safe return of a vessel to the port of 
 Veracruz, believed to have been lost in a storm. Here 
 also a grotto with mosaics. The cemetery of Santa Ana 
 is close by. It was in the barracks at Guadalupe that 
 the treaty of peace between Mexico and the United 
 States was signed. 
 
 It is in the middle of December when the feast of 
 Guadalupe is celebrated. Thousands of natives from bun- 
 
, 76 
 
 dreds of miles round attend this event. The chief fea- 
 tures of the occasion seemed to be eating, drinking, buy- 
 ing, selHng, gambHng and worshiping. The church is 
 filled with worshipers during the feast season, and the 
 streets with gambling devices of many kinds. A piece of 
 cloth about six feet long and four feet wide is attached to 
 poles, in the shade of which the cooking of the poorer 
 class is done on earthen buckets, with charcoal as fuel. 
 Any of the food is for sale. Dried goats' heads can be 
 seen stacked on the sidewalks, which are eaten by the 
 poor. Black beans and tortillas (a cake like our buck- 
 wheat cake, only thinner, and made of ground corn) are 
 prominent on the public menu. Venders can be seen 
 sleeping, rolled up in their blankets, at night where they 
 do business in the day. All the earthly possessions they 
 own are what is seen behind the canvas or in shady 
 places on or alongside the walks. Fully half of them are 
 in their bare feet, another quarter of them wearing san- 
 dals, and the remaining one-fourth wearing cheap or sec- 
 ond-hand shoes. There are tens of thousands of the in- 
 habitants of Mexico who have never worn a shoe. Some 
 of the bare feet seem as thick as an ordinary foot with 
 a shoe on. Large cracks can be seen in the feet, probably 
 caused by exposure. 
 
 They all have some kind of blanket. This^ with a 
 high-pointed hat, is all they own in the world. The 
 trousers and shirts worn by the men are much patched 
 and in shreds, and the skirts and waists worn by the 
 women are no better. The poorer class of Mexicans 
 attending the fiesta of Guadalupe is typical of those to be 
 found at gatherings of this character throughout the re- 
 public. They represent in Mexico what the negro does 
 in the Southern States of our country. They will not 
 submit to oppressive treatment, however, like a negro. 
 
 A great number of the poor people seem to have no 
 permanent homes. In the city they sleep on band stands 
 
77 
 
 and benches at night, but always seem to be going some- 
 where in the daytime. 
 
 Hundreds of Mexicans passing along the street, talk-, 
 ing to one another, might not be heard 20 feet away. 
 This noticeable trait applies to both high and low of the 
 country. To term them the low-voiced race would be ap- 
 propriate. Each one seems to strictly mind his own 
 affairs. Even the ignorant are neither bold or forward, 
 and their careful, polite manner of approach indicates an 
 inheritance of manners of which people of other races 
 holding a much higher position in the social scale cannot 
 boast. 
 
 The liquor drinking habit of Mexico, like that of most 
 every country, is responsible in a great measure for the 
 low social standing of the natives. The liquor used by 
 the poor in the City of Mexico and for several hundred 
 miles around, is pulque. This liquor is . very cheap, 6 
 cents buying enough to make a person beastly intoxi- 
 cated, I was told. The liquid is taken from the pulque 
 plant. As a beverage, it holds a relative place as beer 
 in other countries. 
 
 This plant seems to thrive best in the radius I have 
 mentioned about the city. It looks like a large, spread- 
 ing cactus when full grown. It is planted in rows about 
 14 to 16 feet apart. When young, grain is sown between 
 the rows. It requires absolutely no care from the time 
 it is planted until it ripens, a period of eight years, when 
 it produces the liquid, or pulque. When it has reached its 
 growth, the leaves cease to unfold from the stalk, and 
 the center assumes the shape of a church steeple, growing 
 about ten inches in diameter and four or five feet high. 
 Inside the center of this stalk, which is hollow, the liquid 
 is contained. When the plant is ripe and the "well" full, 
 the stalk splits just above the "well," or nearer to the 
 top of the stalk. Men are gathering pulque every 
 day. They climb through the sharp-pointed, prickly 
 
78 
 
 leaves to the center of the plant and insert a tube into 
 the "well," through which the pulque is sucked into a 
 complete pigskin — ears, legs, nose, and all. When two 
 pigskins are filled, they are secured to a horse's back and 
 brought to the city and sold. The plants, after becoming 
 ripe, "bleed" for five months, producing about three 
 quarts of pulque a day. After the plant has ceased 
 "bleeding," it is dug up and a young plant is substituted. 
 
 The pigskin in Mexico is as much the standard of 
 liquor measure as our quarter and half barrels in this 
 country. The color of the pulque is that of milk, with 
 a bluish shade, and has an odor like beer. It is sold and 
 consumed just as it comes from the plant. 
 
 The Mexican government clearly recognizes the evil 
 to the republic resulting from this cheap, native liquor, 
 and is trying to head it off, so to speak, by restricting the 
 hours in which it is to be sold. The time for closing 
 saloons on week days is 9 at night, and on Sundays at 
 12 o'clock noon. All saloons must open on the main 
 street; no back entrances. Drinking to excess is notice- 
 able only among the poorer class, for during my stay in 
 the republic not a single instance of drunkenness by a 
 Mexican of the middle or higher class came under my 
 observation. I wish I could say as much for the English- 
 speaking people. 
 
 The tortilla (tor-tee-yh) to the peone is what bread is 
 to the people of this country. Along the side streets, 
 every other building seems to be a tortilla bakery. These 
 tortillas are rolled flat with a stone rolling pin on a 
 sort of three-legged stone table, and the women do all the 
 rolling while on their knees. After having rolled them thin, 
 they smack them with their hands — as a finishing touch, 
 no doubt. All about the low stone and ground floor 
 rooms can be seen charcoal fires in the earthen buckets. 
 Across the top of each is a round piece of sheet iron, 
 serving the purpose of a griddle, on which the tortillas are 
 placed until baked brown. 
 
79 
 
 From one to half a dozen of these cakes are doubled 
 up and eaten with beans, like a sandwich. Beans and 
 tortillas are the chief food of the poor. 
 
 I noticed the absence of heavy truck wagons, vans, 
 etc., on the streets. Most of the furniture and similar 
 articles are moved on hand-barrows, with a man at each 
 end between the handles, with straps attached, which 
 pass over the shoulders. It is astonishing the amount 
 of freight two men can carry in this manner. However, 
 there can be seen numerous truck wagons, but they are 
 most all new, denoting a new era of city traffic of this 
 sort. 
 
 There are no turnpikes in Mexico to speak of — that 
 is, for wagons — as all the commodities brought into the 
 city by farmers, etc., are borne on horses backs. 
 
 The principal drive of the city is Paseo de la Reforma, 
 commonly known as the "Paseo," and is a wide and 
 beautiful street. At the end of San Francisco street, 
 where the Paseo starts, stands the statue of Charles IX., 
 "the largest single moulding on the continent." Stat- 
 uettes line this popular drive the entire length. Green 
 circles dot this thoroughfare at frequent intervals, in the 
 center of which stand statues of former great men of 
 Spain and Mexico. The city has been unsparing in the 
 comfort of the public, for almost the entire length of 
 the Paseo, wide, high-back cemented seats are built on 
 either side. Not even in Central Park, New York City, 
 or Prospect Park, Brooklyn, have I seen turnouts that 
 surpass those driven up and down the Paseo in the even- 
 ings. This drive extends westward to Chapultepec, about 
 three miles distant. 
 
 The highest mountains I have ever looked at are located 
 about 17 miles from the City of Mexico. These are Po- 
 pocatapetl (smoking mountain), which is 17,782 feet in 
 height, and Ixtaccihuatl (white woman), 16,060 feet. 
 These mountains are white with snow the year round. 
 
8o 
 
 They nestle alongside each other, like two children of 
 different years. A person might not for days get a good 
 view of these mountains, owing to clouds settling below 
 their summits. 
 
 Being charged 6 cents for small articles on most all 
 occasions, led me to believe I was being fleeced out of a 
 penny at each transaction. Later, however, I found such 
 was not the case, as 6 cents in Mexico represents the 
 standard of 5 cents in our country, and 12 cents our dime. 
 
 Games of baseball were played several times a week 
 during my stay in the city. One team was composed 
 entirely of Mexicans and the other of Americans. The 
 regulation ball grounds were used, with grand stand and 
 bleachers. Sometimes as many as a thousand people 
 would attend, only to see the Americans fall before the 
 skill of the Mexicans. Out of a dozen games played, the 
 American team did not win one. 
 
 Winter is the dry season in Mexico, the rainy season 
 (our summer) beginning the latter part of May or early 
 in June, when it rains about half an hour every afternoon. 
 
 The Mexican "Herald," an American paper, is the larg- 
 est newspaper published in the republic. "Imparcial" is 
 the leading morning Spanish paper, and "El Mundo" the 
 afternoon. These papers, I was openly informed, are sub- 
 sidized, the "Herald" receiving $12,000 a year, and "Im- 
 parcial" $50,000. 
 
 Two weeks after I had reached the city, I obtained 
 employment on the "Herald." The wages paid linotype 
 operators are $50 a week. That was no better than $21 
 in American money, however. Regular meals at moder- 
 ate priced restaurants cost from 75 cents to $1. A $3 
 hat costs from $8 to $10. A pair of $3 or $3.50 shoes cost 
 from $9 to $11. A pair of $6 to $8 trousers cost from 
 $17 to S20, and the cheapest suit of clothes one can have 
 made costs $45. 
 
 An American will not be in the city long before it will 
 
8i 
 
 occur to him that better satisfaction is found when mak- 
 ing purchases at Mexican stores. The Mexican business 
 man is honest. Any exception to this is because the latter 
 might have been educated in the EngHsh-speaking coun- 
 tries. There seemed to be few reputable American busi- 
 ness men in Mexico, and the American "hobo" fraternity 
 is represented in no small numbers, and none the less 
 persistent. As most every one knows, President Diaz is 
 partial to Americans, but I fear his friendship is abused 
 in a great number of instances. 
 
 It might seem strange, but there is no Salvation Army 
 in the City of Mexico. A few years since, an edict went 
 forth that no public religious demonstrations would be 
 permitted. When the Salvationists are denied kneel- 
 ing and praying, standing and singing on the streets, 
 their usual custom of worship, their field of usefulness 
 seems much curtailed. 
 
 As a great many people know, the church and state 
 in Mexico are at sword's points. The priests are pro- 
 hibited from walking about the streets dressed in their 
 robes, which is such a common sight in Montreal and 
 Quebec. It was about this time the ringing of church 
 bells was lessened. It is said until recently the church 
 owned one-third the land of the republic. The govern- 
 ment for some time, and at present, is confiscating some 
 of this property. I was informed in one instance, where 
 church land was confiscated, that it was by the utmost 
 efforts on the part of the church officials that enough 
 was retained of their immediate church property on 
 which to build a fence. Nothing whasoever is allowed 
 the church by the government for property so taken. 
 
 No young woman of even ordinary social standing 
 thinks of going out of an afternoon or evening unaccom- 
 panied by a chaperon. 
 
 It is not an uncommon sight to see on the banks of 
 streams or ditches through which water runs naked chil- 
 
82 
 
 dren scattered along for a hundred yards or more. An- 
 other look will reveal women — their mothers — in the 
 stream washing the children's clothes. Of course, there 
 is only one reason for this — they have not a change of 
 clothes — and the little ones wait until their clothes are 
 washed and dried. Neither is it an uncommon sight to 
 see women half undressed engaged in washing the other 
 half of their apparel in similar streams. 
 
 The buildings in the City of Mexico cannot compare 
 with those found in numerous smaller cities of our coun- 
 try. Work of modernizing the city, however, is rapidly 
 going on. A fine large postoffice building has just been 
 finished. Wherever possible the streets are being widened, 
 and instances of modern advancement are seen in more 
 than one part of the city. 
 
 The people of Mexico do not directly enjoy open fran- 
 chise as we do in the States. The President is elected 
 in about the same manner as our Senators. The Execu- 
 tive of Mexico is unpopular with the masses, but seems 
 to be satisfactory to the business element of the republic. 
 One thing is certain, there is no doubt about the Presi- 
 dent ruling with an iron hand. 
 
 The Mexican people retire at an early hour and get up 
 early in the morning. At 9:30 o'clock in the evening 
 few people can be seen about the streets, and they remain 
 so until morning. 
 
 There can be seen on the various street car lines of 
 the city almost any day, a car bearing a coffin, going in the 
 direction of one of the many cemeteries. Behind the 
 ''hearse" car are from one to four other cars, which are 
 occupied by mourners and friends This is the almost 
 exclusive custom of burial in the City of Mexico. 
 
 I was told Dolores Cemetery, in which most of the 
 poorer classes are buried, is one of the largest graveyards 
 in the world. I witnessed the lowering into graves of 
 several coffins, but failed to see a priest, for only the well- 
 
83 
 
 to-do have services at the grave. The "hearse" cars are 
 graded. For the poor, or peons, this car is generally an 
 old, rickety, poorly painted horse car, while those used 
 in conveying the bodies of the better class present a more 
 respectacle appearance. 
 
 My friend v^hom I took with me from El Paso was 
 unable to obtain work here, and he left for San Antonio. 
 
 BULL FIGHT. 
 
 I, like most Americans who visit the city for any length 
 of time, attended a bull fight, which took place at the 
 Plaza de Toros de Mexico. I will try and give a detailed 
 description of what I saw, noting the different partici- 
 pants, and their several duties in this unfair and cruel 
 "sport." 
 
 The arena is round, several hundred feet across, seats 
 rising upward all around. Outside the first row of seats 
 a fence is built around the ring. This fence is used as a 
 means of escape when the fighters are pursued by the 
 bull. The price of seats range from $i to $5. The $1 
 and $1.50 seats are located on the sunny side of the 
 arena. Those would be called the bleachers in our 
 country. 
 
 From 12 to 16 athletes take part in a bull fight. The 
 most skilled are the matadors, who also receive the highest 
 salary. As many matadors take part in a fight as there 
 are bulls to be killed, which number from six to eight. 
 Then there are four banderilleros, who throw the darts 
 in the bull's neck. There are also two piccadors, who 
 ride the horses, and who sink spears in the bull's neck 
 when the latter attacks the horse. 
 
 The pen or corral containing the bulls is located on 
 the sunny side of the arena. A bugle blast serves as a 
 signal to the corral keeper to admit a bull to the ring. 
 Just as the animal leaves the corral, which is back of 
 the tiers of seats, and before entering the ring, a dart, 
 
84 
 
 or, properly speaking, a banderilla, is jabbed in his neck 
 close to his shoulders. To the end of the dart are tied 
 two ribbon streamers, which wave over the animal's back 
 as he madly enters. These darts are 24 or 26 inches 
 long, with hooks in the end, like a double fishhook. Fas- 
 tened to the end of the dart are short, fuzzy-cut tissue 
 paper streamers. The color of all the animals used in 
 the fights I witnessed was black. 
 
 The bugle sounds. The piccadors are stationed on 
 one side some distance apart, the matadors and bander- 
 illeros at the shady end of the ring. Enter toro, looking 
 wildly from side to side, then in front, as if undecided 
 whether to tackle the horses or start after the men at the 
 other end of the arena. Often the animal is scared by 
 the terraces of humanity rising on each side of the ring, 
 and he pauses. The ten or twelve men on foot, who are 
 donned in clothes rivaling in color those of a rainbow, 
 with red, green and yellow robes in their hands or thrown 
 over their arms, start in the direction of the awed animal. 
 
 The first order of a bullfight after entering the ring, 
 is an attack on the horses, which are blindfolded. The 
 robes in the hands of the athletes are being flaunted in 
 the bull's face. He makes a lunge, with his head down, 
 at his nearest tormentor; but the athlete jumps quickly 
 to his rear. Before his face are two or three more flaunt- 
 ing robes. When the bull would make a dash for the 
 man nearest him, he, like the first, sidesteps, and more 
 robes were spread before his nose. All the time the bull's 
 rage is increasing. The tormentors were trying all this 
 time to enrage the bull to gore the horses. Finally, the 
 athletes, when pursued by the bull, would scamper in 
 the direction of the horse. The bull, mad enough to gore 
 a moving engine, with head down, rushes to one of the 
 blindfolded horses, plunging his horns in its side or under- 
 part. In the hands of the rider, or piccador, is a pole 
 about eight feet long, with a sharp spear at the end of it. 
 
8s 
 
 He jabs this spear in the neck of the bull to prevent him 
 from goring the horse to the ground. With the sharp 
 spear being bored deeper and deeper in the bull's neck, 
 the latter is forced to withdraw his horns. A bugle is 
 again blown, and the horses limp out of the arena. 
 
 From the rents made by the bull's horns in the side 
 or belly, dangle part of the insides of the horse, midway 
 between the body and the ground, with which the horse's 
 hind legs come in contact with most every step. At the 
 next fight the same horse will be entered, the exposed 
 parts having been shoved inside in the meantime and the 
 gored flesh sewed up. These animals will be re-entered 
 until the crowd demands a fresh horse. 
 
 The piccador wears a complete coat of mail, and it re- 
 quires the aid of two or three men to lift him on and off 
 his horse. This protection is worn to save him from 
 being gored to death should the bull succeed in forcing 
 the horse to the ground. If the piccador is unseated, this 
 counts against him. 
 
 The fight has just begun. As soon as the horses have 
 left the ring, the flaunting of the robes in the bull's face 
 is resumed. Now comes the banderillero's part in the 
 bull-murdering event. As I have said above, there are 
 four banderilleros, each supplied with two of the 26-inch 
 darts. The placing of the dart in the shoulders of the 
 bull when the animal is in a position other than that 
 of running directly at the banderillero, is considered slov- 
 enly and counts against the skill of the performer; al- 
 most a disqualification, in fact. At this stage of the fight 
 the bull might be standing still, as is often the case. The 
 dart thrower gets directly in front of the animal, at a 
 distance of from 10 to 16 feet. He holds out his hands, 
 in each of which is a dart. He moves them up and down 
 for the purpose of starting the bull toward him. The" 
 bull starts. When within about six feet of the bull, 
 the darts are thrown at the animal's shoulders, and the 
 
86 
 
 athlete nimbly sidesteps about the time the bull expected 
 to reach him with his horns. In most instances the dart 
 reaches the place intended. Sometimes an audible moan 
 is heard coming from the bull. Six more of these darts 
 are yet to be jabbed in the animal's shoulders, making 
 nine in all, which is done in the same manner as the 
 first two. When the nine darts have been jabbed in the 
 shoulders of the bull, the neck, withers and forelegs are 
 red with blood to the hoof. The running about and toss- 
 ing of the animal keeps the darts constantly tearing the 
 flesh. Often the darts drop to the ground, having torn 
 the flesh completely out. 
 
 The robe flaunting still continues — never ceasing from 
 the time the bull enters the ring until he is dead. The 
 matador's turn has now come. In his left hand he 
 carries a short red flag, and in his right hand a sword. 
 The bull, becoming weakened by the loss of blood caused 
 by the darts in his neck, loses some of his former vigor. 
 After a short period of long-robe flaunting, these are 
 put aside, and the nimble matador, with the small red 
 flag, holds it sometimes within a fev/ inches of the bull's 
 nose. The bull will make a lunge at his tormentor, but 
 he is at his side. At a time when the bull is standing 
 still, and the matador is directly in front of him, the 
 sword will be seen raised and pointed in the direction 
 of the bull's shoulders. The matador now aims, and 
 quickly the right arm is over the head of the animal, and 
 the sword is plunged between the bull's shoulders to the 
 hilt. This w^ork must be done instantly, as the bull lunges 
 at the man before him. If the matador's stab proves 
 good, the sword is buried in the bull. 
 
 In a moment blood is seen pouring out of the animal's 
 mouth. He begins walking toward the fence, looking 
 fully whipped. The volume of blood running out of his 
 mouth increases. Still he is tormented by the flaunting 
 robes. He stands a moment. Then, as if to lay down. 
 
87 
 
 he drops to his knees. He remains in this position for 
 a few moments. The red flags are still being waved 
 before his nose. His hind legs seem to bend under him 
 like shoelaces. There he lays, his mouth to the ground 
 and besmeared with his own blood. The matador puts 
 his hand to his side. A short knife is seen. Takipg 
 aim at a point immediately back of the horns, a quick, 
 forceful jab is made, and the animal stretches out at full 
 length — his sufferings ended. 
 
 Three mules enter from a passageway under the judge's 
 stand, with ribbons streaming from each side. A strong 
 chain is rattling behind them. They are driven to the 
 dead bull, and the chain fastened about his horns. The 
 driver calls on the mules to start, and across the ring 
 they drag the dead animal. 
 
 As soon as the carcass is outside, the bugle is blown 
 for another fight. The gored horses (sometimes the bull 
 attacks the two) are in their positions, the athletes are 
 spread about the same end of the arena as before, and a 
 fresh victim enters. As I have said before, from six to 
 eight bulls are killed in an afternoon. Often from two to 
 six attempts are made before the matador's sword reaches 
 the right place. But a first-class matador seldom makes 
 more than two efforts, and often is successful in his first 
 attempt. 
 
 Should a bull refuse to gore a horse, the crowd clamors 
 for the bull's removal. The plunging of the bull's horns 
 into the body of the horse seems to be the popular part 
 of a bullfight. 
 
 Bullfighters are easily distinguished from other citizens. 
 They wear a tuft of hair at the back of the head from 
 three to four inches long, a^^ I when in the ring, they 
 wear it hanging down, with braid attached to it. Be- 
 sides, they are smoothly shaven, while other Mexicans, 
 with the exception of priests, wear beards of some kind, 
 mustaches predominating. 
 
VERACRUZ. 
 
 On the 4th of December, I took a run down to Vera- 
 cruz, 264 miles southeasterly, the terminus of the Mexican 
 Railway, owned by Englishmen. The ties on which the 
 rails rest are iron. These are not solid, as one might be- 
 lieve. Their thickness is not more than half an inch, and 
 they are the shape of the ordinary wooden tie, with the 
 exception that the ends are round. No spikes or bolts 
 are used in fastening the rail to them ; they fit in a groove. 
 When laying rails, the lips on each side of the groove are 
 bent back far enough to admit of the bottom of the rail. 
 When the rail is in the groove, the lips are pressed back. 
 The trainmen on this railroad are all Mexicans, and, like 
 on the street cars in the city, no stations were called out. 
 
 Just before descending from the high plateau over 
 which we had been riding into the tropics, a grade of 
 2,000 feet is descended in a distance of 13 miles. At the 
 bottom of the incline is located Orizaba, the first city in 
 the tropics. Further on, 82 miles, is Veracruz. 
 
 I found in this Gulf city the most modern docks in 
 North America, the last place one would expect to find 
 improvements years ahead of any port on this continent. 
 The harbor is solidly walled with stone and concrete. 
 The docks are constructed of steel. The derricks and 
 cranes used in loading and unloading vessels are run by 
 hydraulic pressure. 
 
 About two miles out from the docks is built a stone 
 sea wall, about 20 feet thick, 12 feet above the water, and 
 three-quarters of a mile in length. This wall makes the 
 entrance to the harbor narrow and deep ; besides, vessels 
 anchored in the inner harbor are protected from rough 
 seas. It is remarkable tha': there is no tide at this port. 
 
 In the harbor was anciiored Mexico's navy, which 
 was composed of six vessels. This small navy forcibly 
 brought to my mind the saving of money to Mexico and 
 the other Latin-American countries, due to the Monroe 
 Doctrine. 
 
89 
 
 I found a stone walk or promenade, a mile in length, 
 fringed on each side with cocoaniit trees most all the way. 
 The trees bore nuts at that time. I counted those on 
 several trees, and they variously numbered from lo to 
 40. The trees are Hmbless for a distance of about 20 
 feet, while the top is bushy. 
 
 The weather was very warm, and a standing collar I 
 wore wilted to the shirt band ; and this in the month of 
 December. 
 
 Outside its splendid harbor and modern docks, little 
 up-to-dateness is to be found in Veracruz. I was told 
 it has a population of some 60,000 inhabitants. Horse 
 street cars, unclean streets, no sewerage, and poor build- 
 ings are the conditions to be found in Mexico's chief 
 seaport city. With the absence of sanitary measures, to- 
 gether with the very hot weather, it is easily understood 
 why Veracruz is a yellow fever incubator. 
 
 In the case of the up-to-date docks, the government 
 bore the expense, while the unclean condition of the city 
 is no doubt due to lax city officials. 
 
 I sat down at a table in the Mexico Hotel to dinner. 
 A waiter placed a bill of fare before me which was 
 printed in Spanish. He could speak no English, nor I 
 Spanish ; neither could the proprietor or the other waiters. 
 There I sat. The waiter walked to another part of the 
 dining-room and stopped at a table at which a priest was 
 seated. Shortly, the priest came over to where I sat. He 
 addressed me in English, asking if I was in trouble. I 
 told him how matters stood. He said he would gladly 
 help me all he could. He then interpreted to me the 
 Spanish-printed bill of fare. We chatted while I ate. 
 After finishing, I tried to pay both his and my bills, but 
 he brushed my money aside and paid both. 
 
 He was an American, and born in the Keystone State. 
 After dinner, he engaged a Mexican to row us to the 
 outer wall, and we walked over it. After returning from 
 
90 
 
 the wall trip, we walked about the docks and streets, and 
 later ate supper at the hotel where we had met at noon 
 time. Like the dinner, he would not allow me to settle 
 my bill. We both boarded the same train in the evening 
 going in the direction of the City of Mexico, he getting 
 off at Cordova, 66 miles from Veracruz, and I continued 
 on to the capital. He was parish priest at Cordova, and 
 invited me to visit that place before leaving the republic. 
 
 CORDOVA, 
 
 I worked in the City of Mexico until the 3d of January, 
 1904, when my itinerary called me to "move on." 
 
 One month after saying good-bye to the parish priest, 
 I kept my promise to visit him. It was on a Sunday after- 
 noon when the train arrived in Cordova. A drizzling rain 
 was falling, the first rainfall I had seen since September, 
 during my stay in Denver, Col. 
 
 After eating supper at a hotel, the landlord sent a boy 
 with me to the parish house. Attendants announced to 
 the priest that I had called to see him. Shortly, the priest 
 appeared, and invited me upstairs. He was enjoying his 
 evening meal, and invited me to join him. Just having 
 finished supper at the hotel, of course I dechned. He 
 asked where my baggage was. I said down at the hotel. 
 "At the hotel ! I thought you were going to stay at the 
 parish house," he added, seeming put out by the course I 
 had decided upon. 
 
 After supper, he escorted me to the Cathedral. Enter- 
 ing from the parish house, the lobby of the Cathedral was 
 floored with mosaic tiling. He told me he had laid every 
 piece of it himself. Proceeding a short distance, we en- 
 tered a private apartment of the church building, stopping 
 before a large, steel safe. He was soon working on the 
 combination. Then he opened the safe door. Herein 
 were contained the treasures of the church, which he 
 freely pointed out and showed to me. 
 
91 
 
 From this apartment he led the way to the main part 
 of the building. On one side and extending to the arched 
 ceiling was a scaffold. A light was lit, which revealed 
 gold leaf on the ceiling and on the sides of about half 
 this large room. This accounted for the scaffolding. 
 
 Several years have passed since the first gold leaf was 
 placed on the ceiling and sides of this cathedral. When the 
 quantity of gold leaf he has on hand is used he is gener- 
 ally forced to stop work until money is raised with which 
 to buy more. Then this is put on. Maybe a period 
 of six months or a year intervenes before he obtains 
 additional gold leaf. When I was there, the price of gold 
 leaf had risen so high that he could not afford to buy it, 
 and he said he would be compelled to wait until the price 
 dropped before work could be resumed. But no matter 
 how long the period of enforced delays, the scaffolding 
 remains, and it will continue there until the Cathedral is 
 gold leafed from floor to dome. 
 
 When he received the appointment of parish priest, he 
 found all the church buildings under his charge in a 
 dilapidated condition. Worst of all, the church treasury 
 was depleted. 
 
 One of the towers of the Cathedral had been blown off 
 some years before. He had not been in charge more 
 than a year when he undertook the work of rebuilding the 
 tower. He solicited the aid of his parishioners in this 
 effort. The part they performed was carrying stone, 
 sand for mortar, etc. In the meantime, by requesting a 
 donation of a penny from each attendant at Sunday morn- 
 ing services, he had raised a little fund to meet the ex- 
 pense occasioned. Later he requested a two-cent contri- 
 bution each week from the attendants. This increased 
 the fund considerably. Finally, steel beams were un- 
 loaded in front of the church. Later workmen were en-, 
 gaged in tearing down the ragged part of the tower. The 
 priest was the busiest man among the workmen. Over- 
 
92 
 
 alls took the place of robes. A derrick was fastened to 
 the tower. Stone and mortar was hoisted up. Then the 
 iron beams. Later the steel skeleton of the, new tower 
 was pointing heavenward. Nine months after the first 
 effort was made to rehabilitate the tower it was com- 
 pleted. The church history showed that it took the Mex- 
 icans 21 years to build what the American priest did in 
 nine months, with the handicap of an empty treasury. 
 
 He exacted of me a promise to be his guest at dinner 
 the following day — a regular Spanish dinner, he said. 
 The meal consisted of half a dozen kinds of vegetables, 
 all boiled together with meat, nearly the same as a New 
 England dinner. He then wished me to be present at 
 supper. Sitting around the table at the evening meal were 
 nine men. Eight of these were priests, myself making 
 the ninth man. The parish priest was the only one among 
 the clergymen who could speak English. Six of the 
 priests were Mexicans, one Spaniard. The parish priest 
 was the medium through whom conversation was car- 
 ried on. One of the younger priests asked the American 
 if I was a priest. This question was asked owing to my 
 wearing no beard. As bull fighters and priests are the 
 only classes of men in Mexico who are cleanly shaven, 
 I felt complimented. 
 
 There are always about half a dozen young priests 
 in the Cordova parish, the head ofiicials of the church 
 recognizing the valuable training they receive under the 
 American. 
 
 Moreover this clergyman is a public benefactor. In 
 fact, I was informed by an American resident of this 
 place that if the parish priest left, the best of Cordova 
 would go with him, as most of the good that is there had 
 sprung from, and was embodied in, this Christian man. 
 
 He has himself established and maintains a public 
 library. This library contains some of the works of 
 Longfellow, Tennyson, Shakespeare, and other popular 
 
93 
 
 English writers, and many Spanish works. Both Spanish 
 and EngHsh newspapers and magazines also are at the 
 disposal of the public. 
 
 Another arm of his philanthrophy is represented in an 
 orphanage. A short time after his coming to Cordova 
 he undertook to fit up a building where the numerous 
 orphans about the city would receive proper care and 
 training. There are no orphan children to be found in 
 Cordova now who have not a place to sleep. 
 
 He still crowded upon himself the principalship of a 
 school. He also maintains this means of education. Part 
 of the day he is seen in his clerical robes, and again in 
 overalls. The support and maintenance of the institu- 
 tions mentioned represents, no doubt, the smaller amount 
 of good he is doing, as in a private and secret manner, 
 men of his stamp "do not let the right hand know what 
 the left hand doeth." 
 
 He has been in Mexico some 20 odd years, and says 
 he would not care to live outside the tropics. Speaking 
 Spanish for nearly half of his life, it has become as 
 natural to him as his native tongue. He is a noble 
 gentleman of whom Americans may well feel proud. 
 
 In this part of Mexico is located the best coffee grow- 
 ing section of the country. Coffee groves, to one un- 
 familiar with them, look like a tropical thicket. The 
 coffee bushes are from four to seven feet in height, and 
 are planted in rows from 8 to 10 feet apart. It is neces- 
 sary to keep the ripening coffee from the sun. Banana 
 plants are mingled in with the coff'ee bushes for the pur- 
 pose of furnishing shade. In five weeks after the ba- 
 nanas are planted they will grow to a height of from six 
 to ten feet. Often orange trees are to be found through 
 the coffee groves. If the coffee "cherry" is exposed to 
 the sun, the quality of the coffee when ripe is inferior. 
 Between the rows of coffee bushes there is not to be found 
 a spear of grass, or a broken twig — as clean, in fact, as 
 
94 
 
 rows between vegetables in a well-kept garden. The 
 coffee ripens during the months of December and Jan- 
 uary, and it was being gathered while I was in Cordova. 
 
 Located here are large coffee works. The coffee is 
 picked off the bushes by hand. The coffee "cherry" is 
 about the size and color of our red cherry, and contains 
 two coffee beans. After having been picked, it is put 
 into bags, and two of these are put across a horse's back. 
 While I was looking about the works, some two dozen 
 horses loaded with coffee bags came in the enclosure, 
 with two men in charge of the pack train. The bags were 
 unfastened from the pack saddle and lifted on scales and 
 weighed. It was amusing to see the horses crowding and 
 backing in toward the scales to be among the first re- 
 lieved of their burdens. Two bags weigh about 300 
 pounds. 
 
 After the coffee had been weighed, the bags were 
 carried up one flight of stairs and emptied into a large 
 bin. Into this a stream of water runs. By opening a 
 small gate the water forces the coffee cherry into a 
 hopper. This hopper contains rollers, and on these rollers 
 are teeth, something like on a potato grater, only longer. 
 They break the shuck of the cherry. The shuck falls to 
 the floor below, and the coffee beans into a chute, which 
 empties into a stone vat. The coffee remains in this vat 
 24 hours when it is hoisted by elevator buckets onto the 
 flat roof of the building. It remains on the roof 24 hours 
 to dry, as the beans are very wet and slimy. Then it is 
 shoveled into another elevator, which carries and empties 
 the coffee into steam cylinders, used for drying purposes. 
 After passing through the drying process, the coffee is 
 transferred to hulling cylinders. After having been 
 hulled, it passes into small revolving screens containing 
 three or four different sized compartments, out of which 
 the grains drop. It is then taken to the picking room, 
 where 500 to 600 women and girls pick it clean. Then it 
 
95 
 
 is ready for shipment. The hulls are used for fuel in the 
 engine, and there is enough to furnish steam to run all 
 the machinery. 
 
 The manager, an American from New York City, told 
 me they could not begin to fill the coffee orders they re- 
 ceive. He also stated that American coffee dealers, as a 
 rule, do not buy the best grades. The better grades, he 
 said, finds a ready sale at Hamburg, Berlin and other 
 German cities, from where some of it is shipped to other 
 foreign ports. 
 
 This section of Mexico is also the home of the pine- 
 apple, orange, lemon, banana, and numerous other va- 
 rieties of fruit which never get beyond the tropical zone. 
 
 I had no previous knowledge that monkeys were to be 
 found in North America, but many are to be found in the 
 tropical forests not far from Cordova. 
 
 The social condition of the poorer class in this place 
 was much better than that of the City of Mexico, just at 
 it generally is in our large and small cities. The absence 
 of pulque in this section of the republic might account 
 for this in a great measure. The pulque plant does not 
 grow in the tropics. 
 
 At the base of a low range of summer-green hills runs 
 quite a large stream of water; at a shallow place I saw 
 several women standing in the middle of the river, their 
 skirts turned almost to the waist line, washing clothes, 
 using a slanting rock for a washboard. 
 
 In the Plaza at Cordova grows a royal palm, the only 
 one I have ever seen. For a tree, this specie presents 
 a most pleasing sight to look upon. The trunk of the 
 palm is as large as a salt barrel, and tapers upward 
 about 25 feet to half this size. Then the long, wide 
 leaves branch out, the bushy top measuring from 16 to 
 20 feet from the furthermost point of the limbs. 
 
 During the day street car fare is 5 cents, but 10 cents 
 is charged after dark. They evidently do not spend all of 
 it in furnishing light for the cars. 
 
96 
 
 Cordova is what might properly be termed a quaint old 
 city. The buildings here are mostly the one-story kind, 
 with low, tiled roofs extending over the sidewalks. The 
 sidewalks are narrow, and the roof affords shelter from 
 rain and sun while inside or while walking on the streets. 
 
 Americans whom I met in the tropics told me they had 
 been victims of yellow fever, and some had suffered from 
 the same disease as many as three times. They seemed to 
 treat this deadly fever very lightly. 
 
 CUERNAVACA* 
 
 After a few days' stay in Cordova, I bid my final adieu 
 to the parish priest and returned to the City of Mexico. 
 The next day I boarded an early train for Cuernavaca, 74 
 miles distant by rail. The distance as the crow flies, how- 
 ever, is about 30 miles. I have traveled over a number 
 of mountain railroads, but none were more snake-like 
 than this one. From the summit of the mountain to 
 Cuernavaca, a distance of 25 miles, the drop is over 5,000 
 feet. Over this grape-vine-like road, for the 74 miles, 
 there is neither trestle crossed nor tunnel passed through. 
 Perhaps this is the only mountain railway without either 
 trestle or tunnel. 
 
 The leading hotel at Cuernavaca is conducted by a man 
 from Boston, Mass., and Americans are to be seen at 
 every turn at this hostelry. 
 
 This city was the former home of Cortez, Maximilan 
 and other equally prominent Mexicans and Spaniards of 
 early times. 
 
 One little thing that struck me as somewhat unusual, 
 was a mother walking briskly (Mexicans half run when 
 carrying burdens) along the street, on her head a large 
 basket of vegetables, and a shawl slung across her should- 
 ers to carry her baby. The youngster was contentedly 
 nursing as the mother hurried along. Later I found this 
 was the usual custom among the peons — attending their 
 motherly duties while working. 
 
97 
 
 It was the 6th day of January when I returned to the 
 capital. A very beautiful view from the summit can be 
 had of the city. Lined along the base of the mountain 
 were long rows of pink flowers. The peach orchards 
 were in blossom. 
 
 GUADALAJARA, 
 
 The following day I took my final departure from the 
 City of Mexico, where church bells ring all day and si- 
 lence reigns at night. 
 
 I started for Guadalajara, the second city of the repub- 
 lic, 380 miles northwesterly. This city has the reputation 
 of harboring a greater number of "respectable" fugitives 
 from the United States than any city in Mexico. 
 
 Guadalajara is the capital of the State of Jalisco, the 
 richest agricultural State of Mexico. While the buildings 
 in this city are of the same style of architecture as that 
 of all Mexican cities, still there is something about the 
 place that seems different. The population of this place 
 will not perhaps exceed 150,000, but distributed through- 
 out the territory in which this number of people live are 
 20 plazas, or parks, arcades, etc., which tend to make one 
 glad they visited the place. High quality pottery 
 is manufactured here on a large scale. The department 
 stores are good, besides stores of other kinds are up to 
 date. 
 
 Orange trees, to a degree, are the shade trees of the 
 city. Some of these bore ripe fruit at that time, and blos- 
 soms for another year's crop were in evidence — ripe 
 fruit and blossoms on trees at the same time. 
 
 Here, too, it might seem, the parish priest of Cordova 
 obtained his idea of gold-leafing his cathedral. 
 
 Visiting cathedrals and churches is the first order on 
 the list of attractions in Mexico. From floor to dome 
 the cathedral in Guadalajara is gold-leafed, with blue 
 stars at close intervals, which produce a pronounced ar- 
 
98 
 
 tistic effect. While the cathedral in the City of Mexico 
 is much larger than this one, from an artistic viewpoint, 
 it, and those I have visited in other places, are compara- 
 tively speaking, as shelf-worn goods to newly woven nov- 
 elties. Added to the gold-leaf and star effect, are alabaster 
 altars and gold railings, and neatness and cleanliness are 
 noticeable at every turn. 
 
 The city is lighted by electricity, but the street railway 
 system is still operated with horses. This is owing to 
 the present street railway company asking such an exor- 
 bitant price from promoters who wish to install an electric 
 system. 
 
 Rummage sales ! A trip to Thieves' Market will place 
 the word rummage on a high literary plane. Staples, 
 broken hames, old shoes and sandals, cleats, clouts and 
 clevises, broken buggy shafts, pieces of harness, rusty 
 stirrups, old saddles, frying pans, worn-out sewing ma- 
 chines — junk junk, in fact. If it is stealing to take the 
 stuff to be seen in Thieves' Market, it should be termed 
 petit larceny boiled down. They have their eating places 
 inside this square, their piece of canvas, used for shade, 
 drinking places — their home. Low characters, I was in- 
 formed, sell what they pick up and pilfer to the "business 
 men" of Thieves' Market. Articles are patched, mended, 
 made over, and sold, if a chance of sale arises. 
 
 There are two weekly English papers published in this 
 city. The editor of one of the papers, I was told, does 
 not own a font of type, a press, a piece of paper, nor the 
 table on which he writes, and even the pencil he uses is a 
 borrowed one. I did not think this was a good place to 
 look for work. 
 
 THE '^NIAGARA OF MEXICO/' 
 
 About 25 miles eastward from Guadalajara is a place 
 called Juanatlan. The Rio Grande River (not the one 
 that forms the border of the same name) flows through 
 
99 
 
 this place. There is a ledge of rock some 300 feet wide 
 over which the water falls, 70 feet. But it cannot com- 
 pare in any way with the Falls of Niagara. Just above 
 the falls is a water race, used to convey water to run 
 machinery to generate electricity, with which the city 
 of Guadalajara is lighted. A large cotton mill is located 
 at this place, the machinery also being run by water 
 power. 
 
 CELAYA* 
 
 I returned from the "Niagara of Mexico" on a horse 
 car to the railroad, where I connected with a train going 
 in the direction of the City of Mexico. Two hundred 
 miles north of the City, the Mexican Central and National 
 railroads cross, and where the two roads meet is Celaya. 
 I got off here to connect with a train on the National 
 road the next morning. Among the passengers from 
 Guadalajara to Celaya I met an American engineer. We 
 put up at the same hotel, occupying the same room, which 
 contained two beds. We settled our bill before retiring. 
 He, like most all Americans who have been in Mexico for 
 some time, spoke good Spanish, and paid for the room. 
 The room was $2.50, and the clerk told him the charge 
 for the first man who entered the room was $1.75, and 
 the second man 75 cents. He was the first to enter, but, 
 of course, we split the $2.50. 
 
 The train on the National railroad was due to pass 
 through Celaya at 5 o'clock in the morning. I was at 
 the depot before it arrived, and later aboard, with a ticket 
 for San Antonio, Texas, which place I reached after a 
 36-hour ride. Here also street car fare is 5 cents during 
 the day and 10 cents after dark. 
 
 September 27 in Mexico is celebrated like Fourth of 
 July here, and on that day, I was informed, it is not safe 
 for a Spaniard to go upon streets where Mexicans con- 
 gregate. Mexicans entertain no love for a Spaniard. 
 
 LofC, 
 
100 
 SAN ANTONIO, TEX. 
 
 Laredo, Tex., is the American border place reached 
 when returning from Mexico over the National Railway. 
 The distance from Laredo to San Antonio is 154 miles. 
 The land through which the railroad passes is used for 
 early vegetable raising. The country is semi-arid, and 
 for this reason, for miles and miles, windmills used for 
 pumping water for the garden truck, are thickly scattered 
 over this territory. 
 
 San Antonio, with a population of about 65,000 inhab- 
 itants, is situated in a productive cotton-growing section 
 of Texas. The soil is black as coal and very rich. The 
 men engaged in farming are mostly Germans. 
 
 Here again I came in contact with the "silent sufferers" 
 in considerable numbers, perhaps equal to the number 
 to be seen in Phoenix, Ariz. At the time I stopped at 
 this city it was experiencing a severe commercial setback, 
 caused by a yellow fever epidemic a few months previous. 
 
 There is no better laid out or cleaner kept city of its 
 size anywhere in the country than San Antonio. About 
 two miles from the city is a splendid park and zoological 
 garden. In this park are several large warm springs. 
 The volume of water continually arising from the ground 
 at this place forms a fair-sized river. The city is built 
 on each side of this stream, affording a good sewerage 
 outlet. 
 
 The historical Alamo in this place proves a magnet to 
 visitors. This is a one-story adobe building containing a 
 number of rooms, with a ground floor. It was used as 
 a fort by the Texans in their warfare with the Mexicans, 
 and it was in this building w^here the massacre of 200 
 brave Texans took place. 
 
 The building was besieged by 8,000 Mexicans. The 
 Texans were commanded by Captain Bowie, who drew 
 a line across the floor of the Alamo. On one side of this 
 line were to stand those who wished to remain and fight 
 
lOI 
 
 to the death, on the other side those who wished to es- 
 cape, as there was yet a chance. xA^mong the number 
 of the besieged Texans was the unyielding Davey Crock- 
 ett, who was sick with fever. When the captain drew 
 the line, Crockett requested that his cot be moved on the 
 side of the fighters, likewise every man in the Alamo was 
 found on the fighting side of the line. As the Alamo 
 sheltered none but the brave, the 200 Texans were put 
 to death by the Mexicans. The mind reverting to the 
 account of this almost fanatical bravery, creates a filing- 
 like sensation at the roots of the hair. 
 
 AUSTIN, TEX, 
 
 I next visited Austin, the capital of the Lone Star 
 State. Austin and San Antonio are at the eastern terminus 
 of the arid country. Here again the consumptives come to 
 seek prolongation of life. As Colorado Springs and Den- 
 ver are the first stations in the "tuberculine belt" in the 
 North, San Antonio and Austin holds relatively the same 
 positions in the South. 
 
 The largest State building to be found throughout our 
 country is located in Austin. This is built of brown gran- 
 ite, and it is said the State did not pay a cent in cash for 
 its construction. A large tract of land in the Panhandle 
 country of Texas was deeded by the State to parties who 
 built the State house and accepted the land in payment. 
 The building is said to have cost $3,000,000. 
 
 HOUSTON, TEX. 
 
 The yellow fever epidemic at San Antonio and the 
 tidal wave at Galveston a few years since, places Hous- 
 ton at the head of Texas' cities. Although situated 40 
 miles from the Gulf, being the railway center of Texas 
 offsets the lack of seaport advantages. The business 
 buildings are good, and its congested street traffic and 
 the number of people passing to and fro over the side- 
 walks give it a metropolitan appearance. 
 
102 
 
 GALVESTON, TEX. 
 
 I found upon visiting Galveston the building of a great 
 wall on the ocean side of the island, to prevent a recur- 
 rence of the awful disaster to life and property caused by 
 a tidal wave a few years ago. Piles are driven into the 
 ground 37 feet, on top of which cement was placed, and 
 on this foundation the wall is built of concrete. The wall 
 on the city side is square, and on the ocean side bell- 
 shaped. At the bottom, the wall is some 13 feet wide 
 and 6 feet at the top. The sloping nature of the wall on 
 the ocean side is to break the force of the water. In 
 front of the wall on the same side are large granite 
 rocks weighing tons, loosely scattered the wall's length. 
 These rocks will settle in the sandy beach, thereby serv- 
 ing the purpose of an additional foundation. The wall 
 is about 12 feet high and 13 feet wide at the base, and is to 
 be about a mile and a half in length. I was told a ter- 
 race was to be built from the ground to the top of the 
 wall on the city side, and used as a promenade. This 
 wall would be of little use as a protection to our Northern 
 seaport cities if they were so situated as Galveston, as the 
 waves at high tide would override the wall. At Galves- 
 ton, however, there is but six inches of tide. 
 
 The city is situated on a flat, sandy island, not over a 
 mile wide. On one side Is the ocean, and on the other a 
 bay. The docks and large cotton warehouses, grain ele- 
 vators, etc., are located on the bay; there are no docks 
 on the ocean side of the Island. 
 
 A bedroom window kept open during the night will 
 cause the bed clothing to become damp from the spray. 
 
 I returned to Houston and found myself in possession 
 of $3.50, and used $2.50 of this to secure a room for a 
 week. The remaining dollar would not last longer than 
 one day, and there seemed no work to be had. I wired 
 a sister in a Northern State: "Stranded. Send $50 by 
 telegraph." 
 
I03 
 
 The next evening a man asked me if I would work 
 for him. I had ten cents in my pocket when I went to 
 breakfast, with which I bought a cup of coffee and 
 doughnuts, the cheapest article of food on the bill of fare. 
 At noon time I asked the foreman of the composing room 
 if he could advance me 25 cents with which to buy lunch, 
 as I had not a cent. He kindly gave me the amount 
 asked for. At quitting time I was compelled to ask for 
 an additional 50 cents for supper and breakfast, with 
 which he complied smilingly. The man for whom I had 
 worked returned the following day, and I was paid for 
 the previous day's work. 
 
 The day following I received a reply to my telegram, 
 directing me to the bank to which the money had been 
 sent. I lost no time in reaching this money institution. 
 When I presented the telegram to the paying teller, he 
 referred me to the cashier. That gentleman said he had 
 received a telegram from a small, obscure bank located 
 somewhere 'way up in North Dakota, directing him to 
 pay some one $50. He further added he knew nothing 
 about this bank or place from which the telegram was 
 sent, and did not care to honor it. He then asked me if 
 I was acquainted in Houston. I told him I knew several 
 printers employed on the papers. He suggested I at least 
 get some one to identify me. The $50 seemed far from 
 being a "bird in the hand." 
 
 I left the bank and brought up in the composing room 
 of an afternoon newspaper, where two men were em- 
 ployed, whom I slightly knew, one of them being the fore- 
 man. I showed him the telegram, and told him how mat- 
 ters stood at the bank. He told me to wait until 
 the city editor came in. When the editor made his ap- 
 pearance, the foreman made him acquainted with my pre- 
 dicament. The editor asked me for personal identifica- 
 tion. I showed him my union card and a number of 
 write-ups I had received about my trip up to that time. 
 
104 
 
 He said he would do all he could to help me. He further 
 told me to return to the bank, and added that he would 
 endeavor to make matters clear to the cashier over the 
 'phone during the interval. 
 
 Upon re-entering the bank, I walked to the cashier's 
 window. I asked him if he had received word from the 
 editor. He answered in the affirmative, icily. He con- 
 tinued by saying that he did not care to have anything 
 more to do with this matter. For some reason he 
 changed his mind, and looked as if he were meditating. 
 Then he slowly walked in the direction of the money 
 drawer, pausing momentarily between steps. I saw a 
 $20 bill in his hand, then a ten, another ten, and still an- 
 other ten-dollar bill. He returned to the window as 
 slowly as he went away from it. He began to strip off 
 the bills and count them, then placed the four bills in 
 front of me. When he had finishing counting, he said 
 this was the most unsatisfactory business transaction he 
 had engaged in for some time, and concluded with saying 
 that he had cashed the order under protest, and would 
 positively have nothing to do in future with orders like 
 mine. It occurred to me silence was golden, and allowed 
 him to do the talking. I gathered the bills, counted 
 them, and left the bank with buoyed spirits. 
 
 Up to this time a sufficient amount of small good 
 things passing down Fortune's chute seemed to have 
 found lodgment in my measure. In this respect, Texas 
 was the State wherein I had figured on a down grade, 
 with the wind at my back, as it is a good printing State 
 at most times. Two days' work was all T did in San 
 Antonio; nothing in Austin; nothing in Galveston, and 
 but one day in Houston. 
 
 I do not charge this $50 against my trip, however, for, 
 had I not prevailed upon my friend in El Paso to accom- 
 pany me to the City of Mexico, whose expense while 
 with me amounted to that sum, I would not have been 
 
105 
 
 forced to borrow. Besides, if the reader will permit me 
 to get beyond my story, a check for that amount was 
 awaiting me in Washington from my friend, where he 
 knew my trip ended. 
 
 NEW ORLEANS, LA, 
 
 The evening of the day on which I received the $50 
 I bought a ticket to New Orleans, where I remained 
 a week, without being able to obtain work, owing to 
 there being an unusually large number of printers in 
 the Crescent City, to be present for Mardi Gras festival. 
 
 The marked distinction in the appearance of the 
 French and American quarters of New Orleans strikes 
 a stranger forcibly. In the former, low, poorly painted 
 houses, shutters hanging on one hinge, dirty, cobble-stone 
 paved streets, while in the American quarter were large, 
 airy, bright-painted houses, well lighted, clean asphalted 
 streets, with park circles and squares placed at short 
 distances. I found in the Crescent City the finest mag- 
 nolia trees I have seen anywhere, some of them being 
 18 inches thick and from 30 to 50 feet in height. 
 
 An effort to establish a sewerage system in this city 
 is now under way, and it will require seven years' time 
 to complete the work. As is generally known, the city 
 is several feet below the Mississippi River, and for this 
 reason the sewerage will of necessity be forced through 
 pipes, which are to empty into a pit, and out of this 
 pumped into the river. With the exception of Pennsyl- 
 vania avenue, Washington, D. C, there is to be found 
 in no city a principal business street to compare with 
 Canal street, New Orleans. This thoroughfare back in 
 the early '90's, was paved with flagstones from 3 to 6 
 feet square, which, owing to the spongy nature of the 
 earth, made it difficult and unsafe for horses to travel, 
 as one side would be forced into the ground by a heav- 
 ily loaded vehicle, while the other side might be 6 to 
 
io6 
 
 8 inches higher. Now it is asphalted, with four street 
 car tracks on it, and with ample room for street traffic 
 on either side. 
 
 The cemeteries interested me here. A striking con- 
 trast between the old St. Louis graveyard and Metaire 
 Cemetery will be at once observed by the visitor. In both 
 burial places the graves are placed above the ground. 
 In St. Louis graveyard the graves are built of brick, or, 
 what seems like a brick wall from the outside. This wall 
 is some eight feet thick and the same number of feet in 
 height. There are four graves or cells from the ground 
 to the top, with brick partitions between. The opening 
 of these burying places are on the inside, the outside 
 being a solid wall. The coffin slides into those cells, and 
 afterward they are sealed with brick and mortar. A 
 marble stone or board, bearing date of birth and death, 
 is fastened to the brick used in closing the grave. 
 
 I have never seen a burial place where graves are so 
 neglected, particularly while still in use. Where people 
 have moved away from the locality or trace of them 
 has been lost, the graves of their dead relatives or friends 
 are opened and used for another burial. On the ground 
 under the graves that had been reopened, lay grew- 
 some debris two feet high — coffin lids, bottoms, ends, 
 handles, etc. In the openings of some of these graves 
 I saw bones, and in others complete skulls. In the cen- 
 ter of the graveyard small vaults are built on top of the 
 ground. I deciphered dates on time and weather-worn 
 tablets as far back as 1823. Poor people mostly are 
 buried in the St. Louis graveyard, not many blocks from 
 the business section of the city. 
 
 Metaire Cemetery, a few miles from the city, is com- 
 paratively new. At one end of this cemetery also is 
 built the solid brick wall with its four graves in a sec- 
 tion, but few compared to those to be found in St. Louis. 
 Here are erected some of the finest private mausoleums 
 
107 
 
 to be seen in the country. Of course, all the graves are 
 above the j^^round. Large, red and steel granite head- 
 stones, from 10 to 15 feet high, are built on the surface. 
 Monuments like those to be seen in this cemetery are not, 
 I believe, to be found elsewhere in xA^merica. The grounds 
 and graves are kept in the very best condition. 
 
 It is said the foundation of the customs house is built 
 on a sub-foundation of thousands of bales of cotton. 
 If a hole is dug six inches in the ground, it will at once fill 
 with water. Cotton, molasses and rice are the chief ex- 
 ports from this city. 
 
 It is only from the State of Louisiana that the simon- 
 pure Creole comes. And, comparatively speaking, how 
 few Northern people know what the Creole really 
 is. The majority of people with whom I have conversed 
 on this subject hold to the belief that negro blood courses 
 through Creole veins. Louisianians, French, Mexicans 
 and Spaniards are the creole-producing races, I was 
 informed. 
 
 The contention that negro blood is in the Creoles of 
 Louisiana has no foundation in fact. The present mayor 
 of New Orleans is a Creole, and any one familiar with 
 the customs of the South well knows that he would not 
 be mayor of the Crescent City if negro blood were in 
 his make-up. 
 
 This intense prejudice to having negroes pose as Cre- 
 oles is borne out in a little incident that happened in 
 Mississippi a few years ago. A Northern theatrical man- 
 ager traveling with a troupe of so-called "Creole Belles," 
 a company of burlesquers, stopped off in the northern part 
 of the State of Mississippi. It was known beforehand 
 that his troupe was entirely composed of octoroons, 
 which caused a feeling of bitter indignation in the people 
 of that locality. The manager of the "Creole Bells" was. 
 merely shown a stick a dynamite which the town people 
 threatened to place under his entire outfit if he neglected 
 
io8 
 
 to couple his car to the first train coming northward. 
 He didn't wait to be told the second time. 
 
 After remaining in New Orleans a week, not having 
 obtained work, and prospects dark, I concluded to pick 
 up and leave before I went entirely "broke." I had 
 about $25 left out of the $50 I received from my sister, 
 and spent $20 of this for a ticket to Jacksonville, Fla., 
 the next place on my itinerary, in hopes I would fare 
 better in the work line. 
 
 JACKSONVILLE, FLA. 
 
 I reached Jacksonville with only enough money to 
 pay expenses for a few days. The second day after I 
 had reached this place found me working on one of the 
 daily papers, and for a few days I was compelled to draw 
 on my earnings to keep me going until pay day. 
 
 When entering the street, after alighting from the train 
 I heard the most blatant and boisterous yelling and howl- 
 ing by hack drivers and hotel criers I ever listened to 
 at any city or place at which I have stopped. It was one 
 frightful din. They were all negroes. 
 
 The distance from New Orleans to Jacksonville is 
 over 600 miles. I thought 350 miles would be about the 
 distance separating the two cities. As a matter of fact, 
 it is 351 miles from Pensacola to Jacksonville alone. 
 
 Jacksonville is situated on the St. Johns River, about 
 20 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. The harbor is deep, 
 allowing all passenger and freight vessels sailing up 
 and down the coast to enter. Most of the business build- 
 ings and a large number of the residences are new, hav- 
 ing been erected on the sites of those wiped out by fire 
 some four or five years ago. With its well-paved, clean 
 streets and new buildings, it is at the top of the list as 
 one of the most up-to-date small cities to be found in 
 the country. The winter season, of course, is Jackson- 
 ville's busiest time; but throughout the entire year busi- 
 
109 
 
 ness is good. The city is provided with water from ar- 
 tesian wells. It owns its water plant, and also the elec- 
 tric light plant. 
 
 Up to eight or nine years ago the northern part of 
 Florida was dotted with orange groves, which escaped 
 -the frost long enough for them to grow to the bearing 
 stage. At that time, however, a severe frost killed all 
 the trees, and forever put out of question the probability 
 of orange raising in northern Florida. Through the visi- 
 tation of this frost, people considered wealthy were made 
 poor. The section embraced in the frost line extends 
 about 150 miles southward of Jacksonville. 
 
 During two or three days in February the weather 
 was quite cold for that locality. Later it moderated to 
 pleasant October weather. 
 
 While walking about the streets in the colored section 
 of the city, a negro came along riding on a bicycle. Sit- 
 ting on the steps of the porch of a corner house were 
 two negresses. The negro evidently was acquainted 
 with them. He loudly addressed the women: "T'ank 
 de Lawd fo' de sun !" "Yes, indeede," was the reply ; 
 "bettah dan wood. Wood putty high now." I was in- 
 formed there are really more negroes in Jacksonville 
 than there are white people. 
 
 Here also the ostrich industry is represented by a 
 "farm" containing a number of these great birds ; and 
 they, like in Los Angeles and Phoenix, prove a center 
 of attraction to visitors. It is at Phoenix, however, 
 where the greatest number of ostriches are to be found, 
 probably because the climate is better suited for their 
 raising. 
 
 The shell-road drives about this city cannot be ex- 
 celled. The foundation of shell, from six inches to a foot, 
 when ground fine, is much superior to macadam. The 
 walks in the parks are deeply covered with shells also. 
 These shells are of the snail variety, only larger. A 
 
no 
 
 short distance up the St. Johns River they are seen in 
 large mounds. They are loaded on barges and brought 
 to the city and used for the purpose stated above. 
 
 ST* AUGUSTINE, FLA. 
 
 I spent a day in St. Augustine. The first of the great 
 chain of large, modern and expensive hotels which line 
 the East Coast of Florida is met with in St. Augustine, 
 owned by Millionaire Flagler. 
 
 The old Spanish fort, of course, is the chief point of 
 interest to the visitor. Late in the first half of the six- 
 teenth century this fort was built. In one of the dun- 
 geons, which is only about 10x15 feet, I struck a match, 
 and the light from which failed to illuminate further 
 than the tips of my fingers. I then lighted a newspaper 
 of 10 or 12 pages in the center of the dungeon, and this 
 but dimly lit up the room. Government officers are 
 placed here to look after the old fort. It seems to serve 
 no other purpose than an object of interest to visitors. 
 
 The narrow streets and sidewalks in St. Augustine are 
 similar to those found in the cities of Mexico. 
 
 When I left Jacksonville for Atlanta, after a stay of 
 three weeks, I had earned and saved enough money to 
 make a couple of more stops. 
 
 ATLANTA, GA. 
 
 It was about the middle of February when I started 
 northward, my first stop being Atlanta, where I re- 
 mained three days, but found no work. 
 
 Most people who have lived in the larger cities will 
 meet with a surprise here. This will be occasioned by 
 several high office buildings, from 10 to 17 stories in 
 height. One would naturally ask what particular com- 
 mercial feature a city less than 150,000 inhabitants calls 
 for 16 and 17 story buildings. The insurance, steel and 
 other great commercial combinations of the North have 
 
Ill 
 
 made Atlanta a sub-headquarters, thereby saving the 
 time that business transactions would take up between 
 the South and the North. These buildings represent, 
 in fact, a vest-pocket edition of lower Broadway, New 
 York. The general business-like appearance of Atlanta 
 is very favorable. 
 
 NASHVILLE, TENN. 
 
 Nashville, the Rock City, also called the Athens of 
 the South, I reached on the 20th of February, exactly 
 one year from the day I had left Washington on my 
 journey. I had traveled in this time 16,633 niiles. 
 
 This city is the capital of Tennessee, situated in the 
 center of the State and on the Cumberland River. Con- 
 siderable shipping takes place on this river in the fall 
 and spring seasons of the year. Wholesale and commis- 
 sion houses form no small part of the business interests 
 of Nashville. The street paving and buildings are good. 
 
 There are some dozen colleges, seminaries, and other 
 seats of learning located in the Rock City, which gives 
 it the name "Athens of the South." Among the institu- 
 tions of this place is the widely-known Vanderbilt Col- 
 lege, and a negro college is included among them. 
 
 Aristocratic tendencies are more pronounced in this 
 city than any other Southern city I have been in. On 
 shopping days the streets on which the stores are located 
 are lined with carriages for blocks, driven by colored 
 coachmen. I found living expenses here less than in any 
 other city I had stopped in. 
 
 There was less excitement in this place than any I 
 have been in of its size. During my six weeks' stay I 
 did not witness a runaway, a street car collision or ac- 
 cident ; did not hear a band play, nor see an arrest made 
 — not even a dog chasing a cat. It's a good place to 
 save money. 
 
 I occupied a room over an undertaking establishment, 
 
112 
 
 and through it I had to pass to reach my quarters. With 
 the exception of Sunday night, it would be from 2 130 to 
 3 o'clock in the morning when I returned, as I worked 
 at night. I generally talked with the night manager 10 
 or 15 minutes before going to bed. 
 
 During one of the early morning chats our conversa- 
 tion was interrupted by a noise which sounded like new 
 furniture cracking. The manager earnestly asked : "Did 
 you hear that pop?" I assured him it was very distinct 
 and asked what had caused it. ''That's a casket pop- 
 ping," he answered, and added: "We will have a 'call' 
 before the day is out." 
 
 I stopped in the office, as usual, when coming from 
 work the next morning. I asked the manager if they 
 had a "call" the day before. He said a call came over 
 the 'phone at 8 o'clock in the morning, five hours after 
 the casket had "popped." A young fellow, who was 
 trying to beat his way on a freight train, had missed his 
 footing and fell under the wheels of a car and was ter- 
 ribly mangled. Fully half a dozen "pops" occurred later 
 while I was chatting with the manager in the still, early 
 morning hours, and before the day had passed, in every 
 instance a "call" had been received. The manager in- 
 formed me that during his 15 years' service in the under- 
 taking business he had heard hundreds of similar casket 
 "pops," and each one proved a sure forerunner of a 
 death call before the day was over. 
 
 The fruit trees were in blossom, indicating, of course, 
 winter had passed, during which time I had not seen a 
 flake of snow fall. 
 
 I reached Nashville with but $10, and left with $90, 
 besides having provided myself with shoes, a suit of 
 clothes, and other necessary wearing apparel which I 
 was in need of. I had worked six full weeks at $24 
 a week. 
 
113 
 MEMPHIS, TENN. 
 
 Easter day I reached Memphis. The horse racing 
 season was in full blast, and the city was filled with 
 sporting people. Wherever the better element of this 
 class is found, it is a sure indication of a lively town. 
 And Memphis is nothing if not that. 
 
 This city, from a commercial point of view, is second 
 to New Orleans in the South, not including St. Louis. 
 Cotton and merchandise are being loaded and unloaded 
 from river steamboats all the while. It does not seem 
 like other Southern cities. A cosmopolitan air is no- 
 ticeable at every turn. 
 
 Early in the afternoons and evenings at the time of 
 year I was in Memphis, loud strains of music are heard 
 in every part of the city. Going in the direction from 
 which the music seems to come, one will bring up at the 
 river front. The m.usic will fall upon the ears strong 
 and harsh, for it comes from steam caliopes, used on big 
 river excursion boats to attract a crowd. In New Or- 
 leans, music of this nature at the water front is heard 
 at all seasons of the year. 
 
 The water used in this city comes from artesian wells. 
 The inside of ai water pitcher will be red as a piece of 
 iron exposed to the weather. This is caused by the 
 large amount of iron contained in the water. On top 
 of the water also will be a skum of oil. This is owing 
 to the city's proximity to the oil fields. 
 
 I was here during the high water stage of the Missis- 
 sippi River. In certain sections of the city street cars 
 could not pass owing to the water running through door- 
 ways. In the same sections most of the houses were de- 
 serted. The houses which were not abandoned were 
 reached by rowboats. As far as one could see westward 
 nothing but water among trees met the eye. From Mem- 
 phis, it seemed as if the State of Arkansas might have 
 been under water. 
 
114 
 
 I had worked full time from February 2 1st, when I 
 reached Nashville, until May 3d. The money I saved 
 from this stretch of work marked the high financial 
 point of my trip. I had something like $156, and had 
 provided myself with sufficient clothes and other neces- 
 sary articles to last me until August. 
 
 The second day after I had left Memphis there ap- 
 peared in the columns of the paper on which I had been 
 working an extended write-up of my trip up to that 
 time. 
 
 LITTLE ROCK, ARK- 
 
 I reached Little Rock, the Rose City, with $152. This 
 city is situated on the Arkansas River, the same stream 
 that rises further westward in the Rocky Mountains and 
 later flows through the perpendicular walls of Royal 
 Gorge, Col. Only at high water can boats navigate this 
 river. 
 
 The name of Rose City for Little Rock is very ap- 
 propriate. In most every house yard during the season 
 of bloom can be seen rose bushes bending to the ground 
 under the weight of the clusters that grow upon them. 
 I was informed that roses bloom in this city every month 
 from April to December. 
 
 I again would like to call the attention of the reader 
 to another zigzag move in my trip. The latter end of 
 January I was at New Orleans; from here I went to 
 Jacksonville, Fla., eastward over 600 miles; then north- 
 westerly to Atlanta, Ga., and Nashville, Tenn. ; then 
 southwesterly to Memphis and to Little Rock, Ark. 
 Little Rock is some 300 miles north and over 100 miles 
 west of New Orleans. 
 
 I remained in Little Rock a few days, coming here 
 mainly to visit Hot Springs, nearby. My stay in cities 
 and places until I had reached the lakes was to be short, 
 owing to my having stayed in Tennessee a longer period 
 
115 
 
 than that for which my itinerary called, but for the pur- 
 pose of "making hay while the sun shone." 
 
 HOT SPRINGS, ARK» 
 
 During my stay in Little Rock I made a trip to Hot 
 Springs, America's Pool of Siloam, where, at any sea- 
 son of the year, can be seen in painfully great numbers, 
 the "maimed, blind and halt." This is Phoenix, Ariz., 
 in another form. 
 
 As Meccas of healing, the two places parallel each 
 other, the difference being that people go to Phoenix in 
 the hope that the rarified air will check the destroying 
 forces of the tuberculosis germ; to Hot Springs they 
 flock for the purpose of banishing from their system im- 
 pure blood, bathing in these famous springs. The springs 
 are located in a valley between two low mountains of the 
 Ozark range. 
 
 Reading accounts at different times of derelict and 
 dishonest Government officials, we might allow ourselves 
 to conclude that the Government held lightly the wel- 
 fare of its less favored class of citizens. Forceful and 
 pleasant contradiction to this way of thinking is found 
 in Hot Springs. The land out of which the springs 
 flow is owned by the Government, and that portion of 
 it not used by the Government is leased to private parties. 
 
 The Government baths are at the disposal of the 
 public, and "whosoever will, may come." Instances of 
 imposition on charity in this case are few, for any one 
 with sufficient means to pay for treatment at private bath 
 houses will lose little time in separating themselves from 
 the poor, ragged, diseased patrons of the Government 
 bath house. Close to the bath house is a marine hos- 
 pital, erected here for treatment of those of Uncle Sam's 
 soldiers whose ailments might be improved by the boil- 
 ing baths. 
 
 The smallest sum for which treatment and board can 
 
ii6 
 
 be had is from $io to $ii a week. A course of baths, 
 21 in number, costs from $4 up. Board can be had for 
 $6 a week. Most people in bad health take a bath each 
 day. There is generally a doctor's bill to be met in ad- 
 dition to the board and bath bills, and the negro attend- 
 ant looks for a fair-sized "tip." Most of the working 
 people in Hot Springs seem to be there temporarily — 
 working for treatment. 
 
 Most everyone carries with them a cup out of which 
 to drink, and poor judgment would not be displayed in 
 adding to this a knife, fork and spoon. I used these 
 articles, drank from cups, and ate food from plates and 
 other dishes with a feeling of no large degree of immu- 
 nity from coming in contact with poisonous germs from 
 the diseased lips of those who had used them before, or 
 from the sore hands of a dishwasher. 
 
 In one public eating place I visited, I noticed sores 
 on the face of the waiters. This class of people are 
 working for treatment, as I have said before. As soon 
 as they have received their course of baths, they leave. 
 Then there are others who cannot find work to do, and 
 this class utilize their time making known their affliction 
 for the purpose of raising money with which to provide 
 lodging, buy some food, and a little medicine. 
 
 The sores on the bodies of some people who go to 
 Hot Springs are so repulsive that negro "rubbers" will 
 have nothing to do with them. However, I was told the 
 healing properties of the water, after a few baths in such 
 cases, would make favorable inroads to the loathsome 
 aspect and remove the cause of objection that stood in 
 the way of their receiving proper attention. 
 
 It is safe to presume, were the land out of which the 
 springs flow owned by private parties, it would be en- 
 closed with a high fence, an entrance fee charged, and 
 the price of treatment so exorbitant as to preclude even 
 a faint hope of poor people being able to obtain treat- 
 ment. 
 
117 
 
 Hot Springs is the Monte Carlo of America in the 
 winter season. Horse racing is in progress during most 
 of the winter months, and faro, roulette, and all other 
 forms of gambling are openly indulged in. 
 
 The Government has built splendid roads, walks, 
 placed hydrants and seats on both mountainsides. 
 
 ST, LOUIS, MO, 
 
 From Little Rock I headed northward, reaching St. 
 Louis during the second week of the World's Fair. 
 
 St. Louis! A city with a permanent population of 
 over half a million people, for whom there is not provided 
 a public square in which to rest, a public fountain for 
 drinking purposes, and where no public conveniences 
 of any kind can be seen. At the new City Hall 
 there was a lone hydrant from which a drink of water 
 could be had. But the City Hall in this instance is not 
 in the business center of the city. For the lack of any 
 other public place to sit and rest, I saw men and boys 
 sitting on the street curbs. From here they were driven 
 away by policemen. There is no city in North America, 
 large or small, that has so neglected the welfare and 
 comfort of its citizens in this respect as has the Mound 
 City. 
 
 The largest depot in North America is to be found 
 here. The great arched roof spans 32 tracks. This is 
 four tracks wider than the next largest depot. 
 
 My week's stay in vSt. Louis was mostly spent in look- 
 ing about the Fair grounds. From here I went to Louis- 
 ville, Ky., a night's ride distant. 
 
 LOUISVILLE, KY. 
 
 This city has a population of some 200,000, and is sit- 
 uated on the Ohio River. Years ago, no telling how far 
 back, the names of the streets were cast on bars of iron,- 
 and are still to be seen on buildings at the corners, but 
 the lettering is unintelligible. 
 
ii8 
 
 Kentucky is famous for her blue grass and well-bred 
 horses. It occurred to me that the grass was chiefly 
 raised for horses and not cows, for I had oleomargerine 
 placed before me every time I sat down to eat. 
 
 In an industrial way, Louisville ranks high in the man- 
 ufacture of tobacco. 
 
 After spending a few days here, I made a side trip 
 to Mammoth Cave, another of the noted features in- 
 cluded in my intinerary, where I spent three days. 
 
 MAMMOTH CAVE, KY» 
 
 This underground marvel is located about loo miles 
 southward from Louisville, and there are few pleasanter 
 or cheaper trips one can take. 
 
 A low, long, one-story, L-shaped hotel, surrounded 
 with large trees, pine, oak and other varieties, peopled 
 with numerous feathered songsters, whose volume of 
 notes at times sound like the echoes of an angelic choir; 
 with long, green grass growing underneath, with scores 
 of varied colored wild flowers interspersed, is a setting 
 to be found only at Mammoth Cave. I have never seen 
 such a galaxy of bright plumed and sweet singing birds 
 anywhere. Enrapted by the sweet notes of the wild 
 canary, mockingbird, bluebird, robin, thrush, cardinal 
 oriole and other wooded w^arblers, the whip-poor-will 
 lends solemn charm to the day olio at eventide. 
 
 The cave was discovered in 1809 by a man named 
 Hutchins, a hunter. The story goes that he was pursu- 
 ing a wounded bear, which sought safety in the cave. 
 Miners, who a few vears later were digging saltpetre 
 gave the outside world the first reliable information of 
 this underground wonder. The pipes and supports used 
 by the saltpetre miners nearly a century ago stand as 
 they left them. The tracks made by the feet of oxen 
 used for the purpose of drawing from the cave their 
 product, are yet to be seen. The wheel ruts of wagons 
 
119 
 
 remain to tell of toil in this darkened place. Stone houses, 
 built for consumptives, in the hope that the even tem- 
 perature would prolong their lives, still stand by the 
 pathside. These houses were occupied by some dozen 
 "silent sufferers" for a period of five months. One of 
 their number died, and the remainder lost faith in the 
 gloomy, artificially lighted quarters and refused to live 
 there longer. Even yet fragments of half-burned reeds, 
 a lost moccasin, or a wooden bowl, tell of visits of ab- 
 origines long before Hutchins' discovery. 
 
 There are two different routes by which the cave is to 
 be seen. Only the very strong can travel the two routes 
 in one day. The "short route" requires from two to three 
 hours' time, while the "long route" comprises a walk of 
 14 miles. At least two days' time is required to obtain 
 a fair idea of Mammoth Cave; but, remembering there 
 are over 200 miles of explored and unexplored avenues 
 and passes embraced in this marvelous cavity, weeks 
 could be spent. 
 
 The first stop is made at the Rotunda, a magnificent 
 cavern, whose limestone ceiling rises to a height of 50 
 feet. The next place shown by the guide is Olive's 
 Bower, where, depending from the ceiling, is found the 
 best stalactite formations to be seen in the cave. Giant's 
 Coffin, a great rock of limestone formation, estimated to 
 weigh 2,000 tons, is the next view in order. This cas- 
 ket-shaped stone is 45 feet long, varies from 12 to 15 
 feet wide, and has an almost uniform height of 18 feet. 
 Star Chamber is very beautiful. When illuminated, thou- 
 sands of gypsum crystals sparkle overhead. The Milky 
 Way is plainly discerned, and twinkles down upon the 
 upturned face of the beholder. 
 
 The most interesting feature of the cave trip is a boat 
 ride on the Echo River. No knowledge of its source 
 has yet been made known. It flows, however, in the 
 Green River, nearby. The distance from the surface is 
 
120 
 
 360 feet, and the boat ride is half a mile. As the Echo 
 River seems to rise and fall with the stages of the water 
 of Green River, this trip can only be made when Green 
 River is at its normal stage. Ths ceiling above the 
 Echo River in some places is low, which prevents cours- 
 ing the stream at high water. The boats used will seat 
 20 people, and are of plain, rough planking, long and 
 flat bottom. 
 
 At a certain place in Grand Canyon of Arizona, four 
 echoes respond to a loud noise or a shout. But while 
 riding on Echo River, sound tarries among what seems 
 music-producing rocks for a minute at a time. As soon 
 as sound leaves the lips, it is converted into music. A 
 man was baling out a boat about a quarter of a mile 
 below, and the echo that responded to the contact of the 
 two waters sounded as if great rocks were falling from 
 high places. In this stream of water eyeless fish are 
 said to be found. 
 
 On the "long route," a servant of the hotel carrying 
 lunch catches up with the party. Rude tables and boxes 
 are provided at the "eating place," and a spring close by 
 furnishes water to drink. Flies make free with the food 
 here the same as those overground. Can't lose Mr. Fly 
 anywhere. Judging from this familiar trait, they cannot 
 be classed with the eyeless fish. 
 
 The principal stalactite formations are to be found on 
 the "short route," or nearer the entrance of the cave. 
 But further along until the end of the "long route" is 
 reached, the gypsum growth is magnificent. It resembles 
 in a number of places a great tree covered with large 
 snowflakes 
 
 Thousands of bats make the cave their winter home, 
 and sometimes naturpJists from various parts of the 
 world spend several m^onths studying their habits. 
 
 Notwithstanding the wonders contained in Mammoth 
 Cave, its stalactite formations cannot compare with those 
 
121 
 
 I have seen in Luray Caverns, Virginia. The gypsum 
 grov^th, however along the "long route," offsets this. 
 Luray Caverns are lighted by electricity, while globeless, 
 smoky, greasy lamps are used in Mammoth Cave. Each 
 tourist carries one of these during the trips. In Luray, 
 most of the trip is wet and the ground muddy, while in 
 Mammoth the pathways for the most part are slightly 
 dusty all the way. There are scores and scores of inter- 
 esting features of Mammoth Cave about which much 
 could be written ; but, as it ranks with Yosemite, Yellow- 
 stone, and the other great features of North America, 
 and even of the world, a visit to it is the only way by 
 which the mind can be satisfied. 
 
 After having spent a week in Louisville and Mammoth 
 Cave, I boarded a train for Cincinnati, O., where I ar- 
 rived May i8th. 
 
 CINCINNATI, O- 
 
 One would undertake a difficult task to convince an- 
 other unacquainted with the census report that Cincinnati 
 was second to Cleveland. The crowded streets, con jested 
 traffic, and the general business appearance of the Queen 
 City would seem to belie this. 
 
 As the Ohio River forms the border between the North 
 and South, and Cincinnati being a railway center, the 
 partition in the smoking cars of trains going South and 
 no partitions in similar cars coming North is noticed. 
 These partitions are used to separate negroes from the 
 white travelers. The races are thus divided on all rail- 
 road trains running through the Southern country. 
 
 I asked a Pullman conductor on one occasion if the 
 company could refuse accommodations to a negro hold- 
 ing a Pullman ticket. In a somewhat evasive manner, he 
 answered that the only way a negro could obtain a Pull- 
 man ticket was through a white man buying one for him 
 and not informing the ticket agent of that fact when 
 purchasing it. 
 
122 
 
 Manufacturing of most all kinds makes Cincinnati one 
 of the most widely known cities in America. 
 
 I remained in this city five days, and worked four of 
 these. 
 
 CLEVELAND, O. 
 
 Cleveland, the Forest City, is better laid out than 
 cities generally. Its wide streets bring to mind those of 
 Salt Lake City. The consideration shown in providing 
 recreation places for its citizens is marked. Park squares, 
 water fountains and its monuments impress the visitor 
 favorably. Its three or four miles of green, terraced lake 
 front, with ample seats, drinking places and other con- 
 veniences and points of interest to be found in this park 
 stretch, belong distinctively to Cleveland. Its business 
 enterprise is noticeable at every turn. 
 
 Cleveland was the city I had decided to stop at and 
 work for a "stake" to carry me through Canada, as, with 
 the exception of the four nights' work in Cincinnati, I 
 had traveled on the money I earned in Tennessee. 
 
 After a stay of three or four days in the Forest City, 
 however, I concluded to substitute Buffalo, and boarded 
 a train for that city. 
 
 BUFFALO, N, Y. 
 
 The Bison City, I feel safe in saying, holds second 
 place in beautiful cities of North America. Its some 
 200 odd miles of asphalted streets, its forest-like resi- 
 dential section, and the perfect leafy archways in summer 
 over the streets, formed by trees growing on either side, 
 are features so pronounced that I doubt if comparison 
 can be made to other large cities of our country. The 
 city is clean throughout, and the parks are good. 
 
 Here, like on the streets of San Francisco, I noticed 
 few negroes. I made inquiry on more than one occa- 
 sion as to the cause of their absence in this fine city, but 
 no explanation seemed to account for their scarcity. 
 
123 
 
 I asked if there was any feeling between Americans 
 and Canadians, as the latter form perhaps one-third the 
 population of Buffalo. To my surprise, I was informed 
 there did not seem to be any pronounced feeling between 
 the two English-speaking races, but Germans and Cana- 
 dians were clashing all the time. 
 
 While talking with a man whom I had met in a South- 
 ern city, I remarked that I hesitated to ask any one from 
 what State they came, as most of the people with whom 
 I came in contact seemed to be Canadians. To my sur- 
 prise, he said: "Well, pass me up; I'm from the other 
 side, too." 
 
 I have passed through hailstorms, sand storms, mos- 
 quito storms and numerous windstorms, but in Buffalo 
 I encountered a fly storm. These flies are called Cana- 
 dian or sand flies, and do not get far from the lake shore. 
 The evening air becomes dense with these insects. They 
 do not bite, but keep dropping on a person until, from hat 
 to shoes, there will not seem to be room for another fly 
 that has not been pre-em.pted. 
 
 As I have mentioned earlier, the peach orchards were 
 in blossom in the City of Mexico the first week in Jan- 
 uary. In Guadalajara, the orange trees likewise. About 
 the middle of February, when I left Jacksonville, Fla., 
 the peach orchards represented a great pink-colored can- 
 vas. In March, while in Nashville, Tenn., more peach 
 blossoms. Later varieties of fruit trees were in bloom 
 in Memphis. Early in May, trees in and about Little 
 Rock, Ark., bore fruit. Upon reaching St. Louis, 345 
 miles north of Little Rock, the fruit trees were in an 
 early stage of bloom. The same pleasant sight was en- 
 joyed through Kentucky and Ohio. Upon reaching Buf- 
 falo, N. Y., and for a week or ten days later, the apple 
 orchards represented small white clouds. So, from early 
 January until balmy June, I had passed through an un- 
 marred season of bloom. 
 
124 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS, N, Y. 
 
 I made two trips to Niagara Falls from Buffalo, one 
 of which included a ride down the Gorge. I had ex- 
 pected to meet with disappointment here, owing to my 
 having seen water falls in Yosemite Valley more than 
 20 times higher than those of Niagara. I found, on the 
 other hand, however, this dashing, roaring, seething 
 marvel measuring up well to the reputation it bears. In 
 volume, the water passing down the high, perpendicular 
 mountainsides in Yosemite is, by comparison, but a drop 
 to a waterspout. It has always been said comparison to 
 Niagara is out of question when considering the dis- 
 tinctive points by which the noted features of North 
 America have become famous, as each one stands on its 
 own particular merit. 
 
 The headwaters of the Niagara River begin at Buffalo 
 and empty into Lake Ontario, 36 miles below. It is also 
 the boundary line between the United States and Canada 
 for this distance. Then, at the eastern end of Lake On- 
 tario, the St. Lawrence River succeeds, as it were, Ni- 
 agara River, through which the lake waters continue to 
 flow until lost in the great Atlantic expanse. 
 
 Twenty miles from Buffalo the waters of Niagara 
 River take their awful plunge downward. The river is 
 divided a short distance above the falls by a strip of 
 land known as Goat Island, on one side of which is 
 American Falls, and on the other side Horshoe Falls, 
 the former on American territory and the latter on Ca- 
 nadian. 
 
 The rapids above the falls are quite a sight in them- 
 selves. The water is in a maddened state of agitation all 
 the while, dashing upward and receding, at each move- 
 ment churning into colors from blue-green to white. The 
 river at this point flows over great, insidious rocks, 
 which can be seen in the hollows made by the surging 
 billows. 
 
125 
 
 Stopping off at the city of Niagara Falls, the water 
 descent first seen by the visitor is American Falls. These 
 drop a distance of 159 feet, and the width is 1,100 feet. 
 It is estimated that the quantity of water passing over 
 this massive ledge of rock is 500,000 gallons a second. 
 The depth of water just as it takes its precipitious leap 
 is five feet. 
 
 Crossing unique bridges, entering splendid, shady 
 walks, the visitor will later find himself looking at 
 Horseshoe Falls from Goat Island. The width or length 
 of the falls is over 3,000 feet, and its descent 165 feet. 
 While the American Falls are the most graceful and 
 withal grand to behold. Horseshoe's curved nature and 
 with a five times greater volume of water passing over — 
 one is simply seized with awe at its coUossal grandeur. 
 The ledge of rock over which the water leaps is hidden 
 20 feet underneath. 
 
 The sound of the plunging water as it clashes with 
 that below produces a noise greater than would be made 
 by the feet of thousands of prancing horses on a great 
 board floor. Ordinary sounds of thunder would be 
 drowned by the tremendous crash of this water at the 
 base. Compared to the roar of Niagara Falls, the rum- 
 bling echoes of Mammoth Cave are as sounds confined 
 within deadened walls. 
 
 The sheets of spray that continually arose recalled to 
 my mind a view I saw on a calm, day in the basins of 
 Yellowstone, when low, lethargic clouds of steam o'er- 
 hung boiling, spouting geysers. A comparison of this 
 spray with that of Yosemite Falls, is like a million yards 
 of gauzy weave to a single bridal veil. 
 
 While gazing upon this gigantic, ponderous sight, 
 man shrivels to the infinitesimal. One leaves the scene 
 with a feeling of nothingness compared to Nature's 
 mammoth designs. 
 
 Several miles below the Falls, between walls 300 feet 
 
126 
 
 apart, are located Whirlpool Rapids. The current runs 
 some 20 miles an hour at this place, and the water is 
 several hundred feet deep. This great volume of water, 
 hemmed in, as it were, breaks forth in maddening tor- 
 rents — boiling, foaming, lashing, roaring — and rebels, so 
 to speak, at its cramped quarters by dashing upward to 
 a height of 30 feet. 
 
 The famous Whirlpool, located below the rapids of the 
 same name, is a treacherous, circular, augur-like, restless 
 body of water. The course of the river makes a sharp 
 turn at this place. The great, powerful current, un- 
 heeding the course, flows straight ahead into a perpen- 
 dicular wall 300 feet high. Here it stops, its force 
 broken. Then it curls, swirls and twists around in this 
 deep vortex, finally passing through the regular course, 
 and joins, less troubled waters below. Heavy logs 
 reaching the Whirlpool are tossed and jostled about and 
 sucked down as if they were nothing but slender, fragile 
 twigs. 
 
 Little has been overlooked by the commissioners that 
 would add comfort to Niagara's visitors. The grounds 
 about the falls are kept in splendid condition ; good walks, 
 plenty of shade, comfortable seats, drinking fountains, 
 and other conveniences, leave little to be added to make 
 the place attractive and a visit pleasant. 
 
 I remained in Buffalo five weeks, working most of this 
 period. This was one of the most important points of 
 my trip, as, with a snug purse, I calculated I could 
 finish on time. 
 
 It was now July ist, and but seven weeks remained of 
 my year-and-a-half journey. Having made two trips 
 to Niagara Falls, there remained but one noted feature 
 for me to see — Thousand Islands. 
 
 I did not intend to do any work until I returned to the 
 States. With $96 in my possession, I bought a ticket 
 to Toronto, going by rail to Lewiston, where I boarded 
 a lake steamer. 
 
127 
 
 CANADA-TORONTO. 
 
 After a three hours' sail down the Niagara River to 
 Lake Ontario and across, Toronto, the second city of 
 Canada, was reached. 
 
 This city compares favorably with cities as large as it 
 in the United States. There seemed to be little difference, 
 if any, in the ways and customs of the Canadians and 
 Americans. The Sunday laws are rigidly enforced. 
 News-stand and cigar stores are not allowed to open for 
 business not to speak of liquor-selling places. The pub- 
 lication of Sunday newspapers is forbidden. At the 
 "Island," a resort on the lake, a short distance from the 
 city, all places of amusement were closed on Sunday. 
 The business appearance is favorable, and the city is well 
 provided with places for recreation. 
 
 An incident that came under my observation somewhat 
 different than that of the States, was the saloon, or bar, 
 feature of hotels. No matter how high or moderate 
 rate the hotel might be, there was the bar. 
 
 There are num.erous Canadians who do not take kindly 
 to what they term usurpation of the word American by 
 the people of the States. They object to being called 
 Canadians, holding that they are as much entitled to be 
 known as Americans as are native-born on this side 
 of the line. Some do not hesitate to suggest that Cana- 
 dians should be known as Americans, and the people of 
 the United States as "Statesers." 
 
 I was in Toronto the Fourth of July, and missed the 
 familiar sound of patriotic firecrackers, bombs and re- 
 volvers. Still, throughout the city could be seen here 
 and there the Stars and Stripes, small and large flags 
 tacked to windowsills or floating in the breeze from a 
 socket. 
 
 THOUSAND ISLANDS. 
 
 I remained three days in Toronto. On the afternoon 
 of the Fourth of July I boarded a boat for Montreal, a 
 
128 
 
 distance of 389 miles by water. The course of the boat 
 from Toronto was across Lake Ontario to Charlotte, 
 N. Y., reaching- that place about 11 o'clock at night. 
 Charlotte is Rochester's lake port, which is seven miles 
 distant, and Charlotte is also the Coney Island of Lake 
 Ontario. There were fireworks galore at this place. 
 
 Next morning we were at Kingston, the "West Point" 
 of Canada, located at the easterly end of Lake Ontario, 
 and where the St. Lawrence River begins. A short dis- 
 tance eastward the first of the Thousand Islands were 
 reached. There are some 1,700 islands in the group, 
 which rise out of the water in this archipelago for a dis- 
 tance of 50 miles. They vary in size, shape and appear- 
 ance from a small, barren rock to large areas of land, on 
 which grow foliage and trees, and small farms are cul- 
 tivated on some of them. Many of the islands are dotted 
 with summer residence, varying in style of architecture 
 from the modest cottage of the camper to the castle of the 
 millionaire. 
 
 On Wellesley Island is located Thousand Island Park, 
 where a summer Chatauqua is held. 
 
 From Thousand Island Park to Alexandria Bay, 
 seven miles distant, the island scenery is the most beau- 
 tiful of the trip. Hundreds of islands lie across the 
 steamer's zigzag course, all differing in size and color- 
 ing. The intricacy of channels through which the boat 
 angles in this short distance requires experienced pilots 
 to guide the vessel safely. We now enter a narrow pass 
 between cliff-like banks, covered with moss and creep- 
 ing vines ; then we open into a lake-like expansion, then 
 again among winding courses, through clustering islands 
 and jutting rock points. 
 
 From this labyrinth we emerge into Alexandria Bay, 
 the "Saratoga of the St. Lawrence." The adjacent islands 
 are dotted with cottages, some showing from among 
 the trees perched on rocky bluffs, others on low-lying 
 islands, or nestling in beautiful coves along the mainland. 
 
129 
 
 At noon time the boat had reached Ogdensburg, N. Y., 
 opposite which is Prescott, Canada. This is the terminus 
 of the lake steamers, too large to run the several rapids 
 of the St. Lawrence located between this point and Mon- 
 treal. After having changed from the lake to the river 
 boat, the first rapids, Long Sault, is reached. These 
 rapids extend some nine miles. With the steam almost 
 shut off, the boat dashes among the waves that seem 
 to advance to meet her, and is carried along at a speed 
 of 20 miles an hour. So treacherous is the grade of the 
 river at this place that four men are kept at the wheel to 
 insure safe steering. Passing through the several rapids 
 on this trip, the boat rocks like one on the ocean in 
 a storm, for the water is very turbulent, rendering the 
 trip most exciting. At times the vessel seems settling to 
 sink, but she swiftly glides from threatened danger, 
 past ominous rocks, until she emerges from the rapids 
 and is evenly buoyed on untroubled waters below. 
 
 Lachine Rapids are the fiercest, the most celebrated, 
 and difficult of navigation of all the rapids passed be- 
 tween Prescott and Montreal. These are located nine 
 miles from the latter city. Passengers are seized with a 
 feeling of dubious expectation as they look forward to 
 the glittering sheet of foaming breakers ahead. In we 
 plunge among them, the headlong current bearing us to- 
 ward the shelving and insidious rocks, with the 
 dark suggestion of others unseen beneath the water. 
 Deftly we pass them by, within a few feet of their treach- 
 erous edges — through foam, through billows, through 
 hurling eddy and swirling whirlpool, through clouds of 
 spray, arising from the churning vortex, crowned with 
 the irridescence of a hundred rainbows, and amid the 
 ocean roar and tumult of the lashing surf! A moment 
 more, we have completed the descent, and ride securely 
 on the peaceful river below, with a sense of relief born of 
 the contemplated danger passed. 
 
I30 
 
 A canal is built alongside the river for westward boat 
 traffic, for, while vessels can "shoot the rapids" going 
 eastward, it is impossible to navigate the river westwardly 
 over the territory in which the rapids are located. 
 
 A feeling of self-satisfaction came over me at this 
 stage of my trip, for I had passed through Thousand 
 Islands, the last of the noted features of North America 
 which I had set out to see nearly seventeen months be- 
 fore ; besides, I had enough money to carry me through 
 the section of Canada I wished to visit and also back to 
 the States. 
 
 MONTREAL, QUE. 
 
 After a 27-hour sail across Lake Ontario and down the 
 St. Lawrence River, I reached Montreal, the principal 
 seaport city of Canada, situated 150 miles from tide 
 water and 300 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Its 
 inhabitants number about 350,000. I had not expected to 
 find such a busy, metropolitan place. Few cities offer 
 more interest to the visitor than Montreal, for the mind is 
 taken back to the seventeenth century. Every section 
 of the city is thickly dotted with churches, colleges and 
 nunneries. Two-thirds of the population are French. 
 Like, in Mexico, the churches are the first objects of in- 
 terest pointed out to the visitor, and the denomination 
 they represent is, to most Americans, made tediously 
 clear. 
 
 St. James' Cathedral, patterned in style of architecture 
 after St. Paul's at Rome, located on one side of Dominion 
 Square, is the church Montrealers invariably point out 
 to the visitor. The general plan of this building is de- 
 signed in the form of a cross, 330 feet long and 222 feet 
 wide. The dome is 70 feet in diameter, and rises to a 
 height of 210 feet inside, while the height to the top of 
 the cross is 250 feet. 
 
 The city is abundantly supplied with parks and squares. 
 
131 
 
 Mount Royal Park, behind the city is, I beheve, the best 
 natural park I have seen. It rises to a height of some 
 500 feet, and, with the exception of a winding roadway 
 built from the base to the summit, and several long 
 stairways for foot travelers, the park is the same as Na- 
 ture designed it. A magnificent view of the busy city 
 below is had from this elevation. It was from this point 
 of observation Jaques Cartier viewed the fertile country 
 he had claimed for France, when, uplifting the cross, he 
 gave it the name of Mount Royal. 
 
 For years I had been searching for four-leaf clovers, 
 and here on Mount Royal I was surprised by finding not 
 only one, but three of these much-coveted, lucky omens. 
 
 Another delightful place to visit is St. Helen's Island, 
 so named by Champlain after his wife. The island is sit- 
 uated in the middle of the St. Lawrence River, opposite 
 the city. 
 
 It was in this city the first printing plant in the Do- 
 minion was brought, when, in the seventeenth century, 
 Benjamin Franklin acted as a commissioner to nego- 
 tiate the ceding of the country to the United States. He 
 brought with him from Philadelphia a French printer. 
 
 The business blocks of the city are good and, for the 
 most part, of modern architecture. The style of a con- 
 siderable number of the buildings in the residential sec- 
 tion is of Queen Ann design. Montreal is the headquar- 
 ters for the railroads of Canada, and, in a general sense, 
 the metropolis of the Dominion. The city is clean, and 
 the people seem thrifty. 
 
 In this city are located two well known seats of learn- 
 ing — McGill University, an English institution, and 
 Laval University, a French seat of learning. 
 
 OTTAWA, ONT. 
 
 I made a trip to the Dominion capital during my stay 
 in Montreal. The Parliament buildings are built on the 
 
132 
 
 high bank of the Ottawa River, and for miles around its 
 towers can be plainly seen. The city generally is kept 
 scrupulously clean. Ottawa has properly been termed 
 ''that fair city with its crown of towers." 
 
 I remained in Montreal a week, for which my itinerary 
 called, and then made a start for Quebec by rail. 
 
 QUEBEC, QUE, 
 
 This city is situated at the gateway of the St. Lawrence 
 River. Part of the city is built on a high elevation, and 
 the remaining portion at the foot. Most of the streets 
 are asphalted, and kept clean. 
 
 Nature has so formed Quebec from her commanding 
 eminence that she holds the position of guardian and 
 sentry of Canada. A great, strong fort is built on this 
 elevation, from which a long view is had to the eastward. 
 
 A beautiful sentiment is displayed on a monument 
 erected to both of the generals who commanded the 
 armies who fought that memorable and bloody battle 
 for the possession of Canada on the Plains of Abraham, 
 a short distance from Quebec, and in which were com- 
 prised both the flower and youth of England and France. 
 This monument, some 14 feet high, stands in the Gov- 
 ernor's Garden, just off Dufferin's Terrace. Gen. Wolfe 
 was the commander of the English forces, and Gen. 
 Montcalm commanded the French army. On one side of 
 this monument, cut in large letters, is the name of the 
 vanquisher, "Wolfe," and on an opposite side, in equally 
 prominent letters, the name of the vanquished, "Mont- 
 calm." 
 
 Churches, colleges and nunneries are also numerous 
 in this city, some of these the oldest in the Dominion. 
 
 Levis, across the St. Lawrence River from Quebec, is 
 where railway passengers for Quebec leave the trains 
 and are ferried to the other side. 
 
 There is a splendid promenade of nearly a mile in 
 
133 
 
 length along the bank or bkiff of the river. This bluff, 
 known as Dufferin's Terrace, extends to and a short dis- 
 tance beyond the Citadel, or great fort. No city I have 
 been in offers such a sweeping view of the surrounding 
 country. The Citadel is the highest point in the city. 
 
 The famous church of Ste. Anne de Beaupre is located 
 a short distance from Quebec. This shrine was built in 
 honor of Ste. x\nne early in the seventeenth century. 
 
 The story goes that, a few years after the founding 
 of Quebec, a crew of Breton sailors were buffeted by a 
 terrific storm; hope had fled and their lives were de- 
 spaired of. They turned to their protectress and patron 
 saint and vowed to build a shrine in honor of Ste. Anne 
 d^Auray should she guide them safely through the storm. 
 They landed safely and built a little chapel in fulfillment 
 of their vow. Later, a much larger church took the place 
 of the one erected by these simple Breton sailors. 
 
 Surprise is met with when entering the building, for 
 on either side of the main entrance are stacks of crutches 
 and various surgical appliances that have been left by 
 thousands of relieved supplicants. 
 
 The French-speaking people of this place are largely 
 in the majority of the English-speaking inhabitants. 
 
 During my visit to Quebec, one of the English papers 
 printed an account of my trip. 
 
 After spending three interesting days in the "Cradle 
 of Canada," I bought a ticket to Halifax, N. S., 674 
 miles distant. 
 
 HALIFAX, N. S. 
 
 Victoria, B. C. marked the northwest outpost of my 
 trip; Veracruz, Mexico, the southward, and Dalhousie 
 Junction, on Chaleur Bay, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
 the northeastern, which I passed on my way to Halifax. 
 If the reader will consult the map, he will find that by 
 drawing a line from Victoria to Veracruz, and then up 
 
134 
 
 to Dalhousie Junction, the lines will resemble the letter 
 V, and give him a clear idea of the scope of territory 
 over which I had traveled. 
 
 After a ride of 23 hours, I arrived in HaUfax. The 
 railway connecting Halifax with Quebec and Montreal is 
 the Intercolonial, and is owned by the Dominion gov- 
 ernment. It is known as 'The People's Railroad." 
 The system of time on this road is different from any I 
 had previously traveled on. The time of counting starts 
 at I a. m., and 24 hours later it would be 24 o'clock. The 
 ke}^ to finding out the time Americans are accustomed to, 
 is to subtract 12 from all time over 12 o'clock. Should 
 a train be scheduled at a certain place at 19:35 o'clock, 
 12 subtracted from 19:35 would leave 7:35, or 7:35 P. M. 
 There is no "A. M." or 'T. M." to be found in the Inter- 
 colonial Railroad's time table. The object in building 
 this railroad was for the purpose of transporting troops 
 in case of war from Halifax to the interior of the Do- 
 minion. 
 
 Halifax, in a measure, holds the same position of 
 sentry and guardian to Canada as does Quebec. In and 
 about its sheltered harbor are built ten forts, and a large 
 number of soldiers are stationed here. The populace of 
 Halifax are nearly all English speaking. 
 
 For a place so well known, it impressed me more un- 
 favorably than any I have been in. The streets are 
 mostly all unpaved and in poor condition. The people 
 seemed untidy, and even slovenly. The buildings are 
 poor and dingy looking. In fact, most of them looked 
 paint hungry — ravenously so. The general appearance 
 of this place brought to my mind visions of a mangy dog. 
 I saw few slips in the docks occupied with vessels, little 
 traffic was moving, and, from a business point of view, 
 the town seemed fit in every way to give up the ghost. I 
 took a ride in an observation vehicle, and the announcer 
 was a small boy with a squeaky voice. From him I gath- 
 
135 
 
 ered that the features of HaUfax were soldiers, forts 
 and the harbor. 
 
 Having spent three days in this city of forts, I took 
 my departure for Digby, N. S. This section of country 
 through which I traveled is Longfellow's "Land of Evan- 
 geline." Digby is situated on the Bay of Fundy, and 
 from here a boat conveys passengers to St. John, N. B., 
 which I reached after a three hours' sail. 
 
 ST. JOHN, N. p. 
 
 Upon reaching this city, a horde of hackmen and hotel 
 "barkers" were seen climbing over the tops of the piling, 
 waving hats and arms to attract the attention of passen- 
 gers, shouting at the top of their voices, rivaling in an- 
 noyance the din encountered at Jacksonville, Fla. 
 
 But what a difference in appearance between St. John, 
 N. B., and Halifax, N. S. The streets were paved and 
 clean, street traffic heavy, and the people generally seemed 
 to be up and doing. 
 
 Between this port and Veracruz, Mexico, there, is a 
 great difference in the nature of tides — the two extremes. 
 At low tide at St. John, vessels secured to docks are rest- 
 ing on mud, with the nearest water to them sometimes 
 TOO feet outward. Passing by the same place eight or 
 ten hours later, the vessels that were seen resting on the 
 muddy bottom will be level with the dock, in 12 to 15 
 feet of water. The tide at this port is 26 feet, while at 
 Veracruz there is no tide. 
 
 Opposite the city, the St. John River empties into the 
 harbor. When the tide is out, there is a waterfall over a 
 ledge of rock of about ten feet. When the tide is full, 
 there is no sign of a fall, and large vessels pass to and 
 fro in safety. 
 
 The city is hilly for the most part, and is well supplied 
 with places of recreation. The populace is much given 
 to American ideas, and have no hesitancy in so declaring. 
 
136 
 
 Here also I spent three days, when I left for Portland, 
 Me., reaching that place after a night's ride. 
 
 PORTLAND, ME. 
 
 The clean appearance and well-shaded streets, its well- 
 kept and convenient public places of recreation, impressed 
 me favorably. 
 
 I made a trip to Old Orchard Beach from this place, 
 which holds second place to Ocean Grove, N. J., as a re- 
 ligious resort in the summer season. The only shade I 
 saw on this beach was a pier about 15 feet wide built 
 over the water. 
 
 My itinerary called me from this place to Rutland, Vt., 
 to Saratoga, to Albany, and eastward to Boston. Not 
 having more than $13 left out of the $96 I left Buffalo 
 with, I was forced to change my route in order to steer 
 clear of financial shoals, as I did not want to get stranded 
 at this stage of my undertaking. 
 
 For the first time I was compelled to change my plans, 
 although disliking very much to do so, deciding it would 
 be prudent to head for a probable safe harbor, so I left 
 for Boston. 
 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 I reached Boston with $10, and remained in this street- 
 puzzle city three weeks. The broken off, joined, patch- 
 like streets (?) of the Hub City proves a constant source 
 of worry to even people familiar with large cities, as it 
 is a common occurrence for visitors to find themselves 
 completely lost. 
 
 There is no city in the country whose people are so 
 well provided with a convenient place of recreation like 
 that afforded by the old historical Common. Boston was 
 the third city to build an elevated street railway system, 
 and the first, I believe, to build subways for street cars. 
 The elevated trains in Boston are much better than those 
 of other cities I have ridden on. The cars have both 
 
137 
 
 end and side doors, which are used for passengers getting 
 on and getting off, respectively, thus preventing coming 
 in contact with one another. The manner of conducting 
 traffic of all kind in this city seems years ahead of any 
 city I have been in. Pedestrians here have the right of 
 way passing along or when crossing streets. 
 
 There was not even a pier 15 feet wide under the 
 shade of which one might seek shelter from the sun at 
 Revere Beach, the Coney Island of Boston. On Sundays 
 and holidays as many as 75,000 people gather at this 
 watering place. Neither are their board walks to rest 
 under. 
 
 The South Depot in this city is, I venture to state, the 
 most artistic structure of its kind to be found on this con- 
 tinent. While the Terminal Depot at St. Louis is larger 
 by four tracks, the attractiveness of the South Depot 
 offsets the difference in size. 
 
 I made a trip to Newport, R. I., during my stay in 
 Boston. There are two bathing beaches at this fashion- 
 able resort, one for the "public" and another for "pri- 
 vate" bathers. Several miles separate these places. Bailey's 
 beach is used by the wealthy, but the public beach 
 is far superior to it. The Cliff Walk extends from one 
 beach to the other, and is between three and four miles 
 in length. There is more wealth represented in the 
 houses that face the Cliff Walk than perhaps is to be 
 found in any similar distance in the world. 
 
 On my way back to Boston I stopped off a day at Fall 
 River, Mass. Out of j6 textile mills scattered through- 
 out the city, but five were running. At noon time I saw 
 hundreds of children of the striking mill workers lined 
 up at a place where tickets were being given that would 
 entitle them to food. The arm of charity engaged in dis- 
 pensing aid in this instance was the Salvation Army. This 
 recalled the "bread blocks," formed by several hundred 
 hungry, homeless men, huddled together in square-block 
 fashion to keep warm, and the "bread lines," sometimes 
 
138 
 
 over a city square in length, composed of the same class 
 of unfortunates, that I had seen, and can still be seen any 
 night during the winter, in Madison Square and Union 
 Square, New York City, patiently awaiting their turn to 
 be fed from the free coffee and sandwich wagons pro- 
 vided by Mr. W. R. Hearst. Remembering having passed 
 marble and brownstone mansions while traversing the 
 Cliff Walk the day before, and seeing in the short dis- 
 tance of 19 miles children fighting for tickets that would 
 entitle them to a portion of food, brought forcibly to my 
 mind that "one-half the world does not know how the 
 other half lives." 
 
 I made these side trips to Newport and Fall River, and 
 about a week later my time in Boston had expired. I 
 worked most of the three weeks, and, still adhering to 
 the "hard-pan economy" idea with which I had started 
 out, I had saved a nice little sum. My wages were $28 
 a week. 
 
 I had now traveled 21,000 miles, the distance I had 
 estimated my trip would embrace. I had also $58 in 
 my possession, $2 more than my ticket cost from Wash- 
 ington to San Francisco. 
 
 I was very fortunate in securing work in Boston, as 
 the city contained a surplus of linotype operators. I 
 went to a printing office the second evening I was in the 
 city to see an acquaintance I had not met in years. Of 
 course, we were glad to see each other. He remarked 
 later that he was not feeling well, and asked me to work 
 for him that night. I went to work. A few days later 
 he was taken to a hospital, and I continued working 
 in his place until I left Boston. 
 
 The date at the time of my leaving Boston was the 
 8th of August, and I had over 600 miles yet to travel, 
 in which were included seven or eight stops. But, being 
 well supplied with "financial sinews of war," nothing 
 could prevent my finishing on time but sickness or acci- 
 dent. With courage born of a snug purse, and being on 
 
139 
 
 schedule time, I left Boston with a light heart for the 
 Green Mountains of Vermont, covering at this time my 
 original plan, which I was forced to abandon at Port- 
 land, Me. 
 
 RUTLAND, VT, 
 
 Rutland, the Marble City, was the place at which I next 
 stopped. This neat little city nestles between two ranges 
 of the Green Mountains. Marble hitching posts, step- 
 ping stones and door steps seen throughout the city, are 
 constant reminders of the origin of its name. 
 
 I had never been in the State of Vermont before, and 
 while I had to go out of my way at this time, I availed 
 myself of the opportunity to put on my record a visit to 
 this patriotic old New England State. 
 
 I left Rutland for Saratoga after a two days' stay in 
 this quiet, little mountain city. 
 
 SARATOGA, N. Y. 
 
 The horse racing season was on when I reached Sara- 
 toga, and the hotels seemed to be crowded. A consid- 
 erable number of the diamond-bedecked people seen here 
 in the summer are found at Hot Springs, Ark., in the 
 winter season. It bore all the earmarks of being the 
 famous summer resort for which it is noted. I stayed 
 here but a day, looking about, and then left for Albany. 
 
 ALBANY, N. Y. 
 
 I failed to see little of interest in the capital of the 
 Empire State outside the State house. The general ap- 
 pearance of Albany, in fact, proved less attractive than 
 numerous cities I have been in. Here also I looked about 
 but a day, as I was nearing the end of my journey, and 
 time was getting short. 
 
 NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 I boarded a day boat for New York for the purpose 
 of seeing the scenery along the famous Hudson River, 
 
140 
 
 as I had never been further up than West Point. It is 
 a trip any one who can should take. 
 
 I found upon reaching New York fewer great holes 
 in the streets than when I left, two years before. But 
 the same street blockades, the same crowds, the same 
 jangling of street car and ambulance bells, the same noise 
 overhead ; the same tall buildings and more of them ; the 
 same crowds at an improved Coney Island — with but 
 minor changes, New York seemed little different. 
 
 I spent several days here renewing old acquaintances, 
 as it had been my home a number of years previously. 
 This city is so well known that I do not attempt to go 
 into its distinctive features, as they are imitated to a large 
 degree in both small and large places of the country, I 
 journey on to Philadelphia, 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, PA, 
 
 In Philadelphia, the up-to-date methods adopted in 
 our larger cities are not to be seen. The street railway 
 companies extort a charge of 3 cents for transfers. I 
 know of no city whose people are so oppressed by a 
 public carrier. In the suburbs the long rows of two- 
 story brick houses is an improvement in this respect to 
 the living system of the larger cities. Each house is 
 built for one family. Denver, Col., seems to have copied 
 from this plan. From here my next stop was Wilming- 
 ton, Del,, in which State I had never been. 
 
 \m.MINGTON, DEL, 
 
 Along the curb market of Wilmington was displayed 
 the greatest variety of vegetables, fruits, etc., I had ever 
 seen at one time. Wagons were strung along for nearly 
 three-quarters of a mile. The white stoops and white- 
 painted window shutters and sills seen in Wilmington 
 are copied, no doubt, after that well-known feature of 
 Philadelphia. The historical Brandywine River runs 
 through this city. A chain of parks is made of its banks, 
 
141 
 
 and a boulevard follows it for a considerable distance. 
 From here I traveled to Baltimore. 
 
 BALTIMORE, MD. 
 
 Upon entering the once-business section of Baltimore, 
 the tale of the ruins of Pompeii crowds into one's mind. 
 It will take lo years to rebuild what the fire destroyed. 
 This city, Washington and New York are the only cities 
 I know of where wires of all kinds are placed under- 
 ground. 
 
 The large cities of which I have just made so brief 
 mention are so well known and have been so widely 
 written up for years, that I do not attempt to give them 
 the same space I have devoted to those places which are 
 not so well known. I have tried all through my narra- 
 tive to confine myself to explanations and partial descrip- 
 tions of those places and points of interest which can be 
 strictly considered the distinctive points of more than 
 ordinary interest in North America. 
 
 WASHINGTON, D. C.-THE END. 
 
 It was Wednesday, August 17, 1904, when I reached 
 Baltimore. I left for Washington at 6 o'clock in the 
 afternoon of the same day. 
 
 It was on Friday, February 20, 1903, I started west- 
 ward on my year and a half trip. 
 
 The miles have been reduced to yards, as the train is 
 entering Washington, the most beautiful city in North 
 America. I was two days ahead of time and had trav- 
 eled 21,630 miles. 
 
 When making the bend into the depot — the last turn — 
 I looked from the car window. The shadows from the 
 higher places had crept over the valley, and, reflecting 
 off the gold dome of the Congressional Library to the 
 leafy hillsides eastward, were the wasting shades of a 
 yellow halo from 
 
 "An orange sunset, waning slow." 
 
ITINERARY. 
 
 Starting February 20, 1903, the following are the cities and places 
 at which I stopped and visited, with the number of miles from each 
 and the total traveled : 
 
 Washington, D. C, to Los Angeles, 
 
 Cal 3,151 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Los Angeles to San Francisco 482 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 San Francisco to Seattle, Wash 958 
 
 Seattle to Victoria, B. C, and return 160 
 MAY. 
 
 Seattle to Portland, Ore 186 
 
 Portland to San Francisco, Cal 773 
 
 San Francisco to Eureka and return 456 
 
 JUNE. 
 San Francisco to Yosemite Valley 
 
 and return 532 
 
 San Francisco to Salt Lake, Utah. . . 879 
 
 JULY. 
 Salt Lake to Yellowstone Park and 
 return 884 
 
 AUGUST. 
 Salt Lake to Colorado Springs, Col,. 666 
 Colorado Springs to Denver 75 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Denver to Pueblo 118 
 
 Pueblo to Canon City (Royal Gorge) 
 
 and return 86 
 
 Pueblo to Albuquerque, N, M 405 
 
 Albuquerque to Grand Canyon of 
 
 Arizona, Ariz 442 
 
 Grand Canyon to Prescott 144 
 
 Prescott to Phoenix 136 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Phoenix to El Paso, Tex 432 
 
 El Paso to City of Mexico, Mexico. . 1,225 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 City of Mexico to Veracruz and 
 
 return 528 
 
 JANUARY (1904). 
 City of Mexico to Cordova and re- 
 turn 396 
 
 City of Mexico to Cuemavaca and 
 
 return 148 
 
 City of Mexico to Guadalajara 380 
 
 Guadalajara to Celaya 198 
 
 Celaya to San Antonio, Texas 780 
 
 San Antonio to Austin 80 
 
 Austin to Houston 166 
 
 TOTAL 
 
 JANUARY (1904)— C'orj. 
 
 Houston to Galveston and return... . 
 
 Houston to New Orleans, La 
 
 New Orleans to Jacksonville, Fla. . . 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 Jacksonville to St. Augustine and 
 return 
 
 Jacksonville to Atlanta, Ga 
 
 Atlanta to Nashville, Tenn 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Nashville to Memphis 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Memphis to Little Rock, Ark 
 
 Little Rock to Hot Springs and re- 
 turn 
 
 Little Rock to St. Louis, Mo 
 
 St. Louis to Louis\ille, Ky 
 
 Louisville to Mammoth Cave and 
 return 
 
 Louisville to Cincinnati, Ohio 
 
 Cincinnati to Cleveland 
 
 Cleveland to Buffalo, N. Y 
 
 JUNE. 
 Buffalo to Niagara Falls and return 
 (twice) 
 
 JULY. 
 
 Buffalo to Toronto, Canada 
 
 Toronto to Montreal 
 
 Montreal to Ottawa and return 
 
 Montreal to Quebec 
 
 Quebec to Halifax. N. S 
 
 Halifax to St John, N. B 
 
 St. John to Portland, Me 
 
 Portland to Old Orchard and return 
 Portland to Boston, Mass 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Boston to Newport, R. I 
 
 Newport to Fall River, Mass 
 
 Fall River to Boston 
 
 Boston to Rutland, Vt 
 
 Rutland to Saratoga, N. Y 
 
 Saratoga to Albany 
 
 Albany to New York City 
 
 New York to Philadelphia, Pa 
 
 Philadelphia to Wilmmgton, Del. . . 
 
 Wilmington to Baltimore, Md 
 
 Baltimore to Washington, D. C 
 
 96 
 362 
 615 
 
 120 
 845 
 318 
 
 197 
 130 
 263 
 
 183 
 
 100 
 
 70 
 
 163 
 674 
 190 
 340 
 26 
 115 
 
 20 
 49 
 
 167 
 63 
 39 
 
 150 
 90 
 27 
 68 
 42 
 
 21,630 MILES 
 
 LBJa'. 
 
MAR 3 19C3 
 
 
 4 V 
 
r- Ctime 
 
 f^ ^^ <^ 
 
 ly and How I Journeyed 
 21,650 Miles 
 
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 By Samuel Murray 
 

 
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