TT 52Q .W35 1914 Copy 1 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. SAPO ELIXIR A Safe Chemical Cleaner lOc, 15c and 25c Bottles- Half Gallon 75c, and Gallon Cans $1.25. Eradicates car grease, paint and oil stains from clothing, cleans gloves, furs, etc. Sold by Druggists and Department Stores everywhere. Manufactured only by POLITURA CHEMICAL CO. 3555 Olive Street ST. LOUIS JOHN H. SMITHERS, Mfg. Chemist. MAIN 2355 ^. A. G. Pasquier & Co. IMPORTERS OF FINE WOOLENS ^^P^ 501-3-5 North Seventh Street WE WILL SELL ANY LENGTH YOU DESIRE Take the Elevator at 505 N. 7th St. ST. LOUIS ALASKA FUR COMPANY A large selection of fineFur Muffs, Scarfs and Coats at popular prices. B. FRANKEL, Mgr. Furs made to order, remodeled and repair- ed by expert furriers. All work done during summer months stored free of charge. Estimates Cheerfully Given. 422 NORTH SIXTH STREET Opposite Columbia Theatre BELI. PHONE. OLIVK : WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. Lindell 71 Lindell 2265 Del mar 2235 The Swift For Real Service Drug Company USE k Vandcventcr & Olive JORDAN'S 1 Scissors and Shears i Lindell 3935 The work you do depends on the materials and the tools you use. How foolish it is to put up with anything: but the best scissors or shears. For many a MRS. generations Jordan's scissors and shears have been 1 Stella Reeves famous all over the world — the standard by which ^ [ 1 others are judg-ed— perfect in temper and finish and 1 nf J | | unexcelled in cutting; qualities. 1 Chiropodist If you've ever used Jordan's scissors you are un- ^^^ '^*V doubtedly using: them now because they have the /f^\f^~'^ 3849 Olive St. proper balance and those who have ever used them ff |[| 1 Near Vandeventer are satisfied with nothing: inferior. It' M /| Jordan's "River" Shears ^^0^ ^^^ Corns, Bunions, Callouses and 1171-Plated straight; sizes, 7" 8" 9inch The Scissors each _... 11.50 $1.75 #2 00 tne ocissors 1173- Nickel plated, bent or straight ; Illustrated size, 6" 61.," 7" 7^," 8" 8'." n62-This the best, cheap Ingrown Nails each_f0.75 $0.85 fS0.90 $1.00 $1.25 $135 scissors on the market. size, 9" 10" 12" Nickel plated bows and each. $1.40 .fl.75 82.25 I'alt plated blades, best ST. LOUIS 1174-Japanned, bent or straight; ITl ''^'p^^^-^,' ^,. ^h.^aeo $o;-^o £5 loi^ ,'om *i'.lo «tf 4i'"'%.'^?-'' '''' ■ti^.TT iT-,i, 1 «■ 1163 — Pocket .scisflnr*; • 1177— Japanned, Fetlock; size, 9-in., ea.._.|l. 75 -^ 4:1 4.7°' ^u Same prices apply to left hand shears la'ch' $0.25 $0?30 $0 35 N.T.DURHAM DRUG CO. Wall Buikling Or^si>a1CcA ^'"^ ""• ^i^o^owAY N. W. Cor. OJiveand Van- ^Jgf^AArfW^ St. Louis, Mo. deventer, St. Louis I'rescriptions. Candy. Ciears, THE STORE FOR GIFTS Hot and Cold Drinks P. S.~""'"''-^';r''* ''""" P'-fcisely l.oiv to gruKi yonr shear.s and scissors so thev will We Deliver. Charts re'aiSnable^"" ^ longest and give you complete satisfaction. Phones: 785 lindell, :847 Delmar WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. ^ SOLD BY Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co 3838 OLIVE STREET ST. LOUIS, MO. PRICE, $1.50 Where garments are purchased ready made, it will olttimes save its cost in the alteration of a single skirt. ■■HIS levice is something that every home. Tiresome fitUngs and rcfif.ings Parisian Gauge. Six minutes is all that perfectly so that its length is uniform and the floor at all points. There so important as seeing that ti place than in another, and al ing than the number of fittings results. What a delightful relief and pi. in one short fitlii man bhould have In her e avoided by usmg the necessary to hang your distance from the It Will Last A Life Time Patented July 17, 1906. 10 feature in the making of a skirt bottom does not hang lower in one same time no'hing more discourag often necessary to secure sahsfactory t experience to accomphsh result 'hat heretofore ofttimes has been impossible in three or four fittings of from 20 minutes to three-quarters of an hour each The secret of the immense popularity which this Gauge enjoys is due to a narrow eight-mch arm, curved in conformity with the natural drop of the smrt over which the hem is easily turned and pinned as the person turns around. This arm is raised or lowered on the graduated upright rod lo any height desired. When one hip is larger than the other, as is singularly true of most women, the use of the Gauge is here keenly appreciated, as no error can possibly result, inasmuch as you are measuring from the floor up and the skirt must bt an equal distance from the carpet at all points, front, sides and back. There is no chalk used with the Parisian Gauge. The employment of chalk or crayon has always been highly objectionable for several excellent reasons: ( 1 ) Crayon must be used with caution on some goods as it is often- times extremely difficult of removal. (2) Chalk marks are practically indistinguishable on white goods. <3) How- ever, the real shortcoming lies in the fact that it is with extreme rarity that you do not have to go over your skirts three or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results. The reason is obvious: A woman being fitted will invariably settle to one side, so to speak; she throws her weight on one limb, and Just as sure as she does, just so sure will the dress goods approach nearer the floor on the side on which she lowers the hip. In chalking that side of the skirt bottom you will find that in assuming an erect position, the skirt being drawn up will carry your crayon mark higher than you intended. This technique we have just descrilxd is very faulty and should never be employed. What is toprevent a woman settling, as you say, with the Parisian Gauge? In the first place, the bottom of the skirt is firmly fixed by being pinned over the curved arm, which eflfectually prevents the bottom of the skirt from descending any lower; consequently should she incline to the side, as is so often the case, her faulty position is instantly ufested in the sudden bagginess or looseness of the skirt between the hip and the hem you are turning (bottom remaining FIXED, while the hip descends, shortens the distance tsetween the two points, the hip and the arm, with the resulting bagging). Her position, therefore, may be corrected instantly. The Parisian Gauge is ensable for home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments autifully hung with the Gauge, as the curved arm may be raised to any height from the floor. This Gauge is handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the sewing It is 10 inches high, graduated in V2 and 1 inch scales; weighs about 2 pounds, and will not tip over while in use. ^ WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. Copyrighted by Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co., 1914. WBIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR Those Using WeideFs Combined Tailor Square and Curves A COMPLETE TREATISE ON Drafting Ladies^ and Children's Garments by the Square and Curves Combined By J. A. WEIDEL. ST. LOUIS, MO. 1914 WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. ^kt^ The drafts herein contained are mostly foundation drafts, as we thought it best not to give many fancy drafts. As the styles are continually changing and we believe it best for the beginner to learn to draft a good FOUNDATION and then make such changes as often as the style demands. )CU4(I6781 JUL 19 1915 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. TABLE OF CONTENTS— (Second Edition), Taking- Measures by the WEIDEJ. aYSTKM 11 to Impoltaiit to all who use WKIDEL SYSTEM How to make a Sweep ,^ Rules f^ Draft No. 1. Instructions for drafting Shirt Waist... 16 (V Draft No. 50. Changes for Over-Erect Form IS 5 t1 i o 5 1 i n -r "^ ^ <•) ^ " ^H ^ *-• -:? ^^ C S •S'+S eg !h u %. 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O) CS 0/ o s ^ > N O - fe .2 -3 5 .3 ^ S-*^. §3 3 g.S 3 ~=M . a a> WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 57 58 WEI DEL 'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. .- +^ ly o ! ^ .2^ g^^ S ft p L-^ S g ^ ~ r— <^ !<:;' CM ^ '" i o 7? o CC c ^ " ■• T-H 'O •-^ .2 o ,:; 00 00-^ . s s s ;::^ o o o. v-1 O "M (^l <^' ' '-^ .S c pS.> ^^'^^^'S-S-i^^^ •^ M '^ S P' ■^ ^ £f ^J S Q F -M P '^ rS ' L- o •■-^ -^, ai ill ill !4:i-.l|:t"^i13fe.i« . liiiiiil i- il^g': i i § i 8-^ i i i I ^'^ i^'^^r.-i »-^ i^ t^ ^li^^"^ > OO a Oj feM^£'SS==f^fc^fc5=f^^fc^^f-,i':^^^a)2^?^^g^— ^ I l-i lia;| M . M^ I I M g 1-5^^^ O 03 ? S|i r— O 0^ Oj ' -H a o G' ^oQ|;3-^i«^|^'"-' .^f^^^^.ss^g^^ ^fe^gce^So^ WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 59 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION nOOK. 3 r- -^ C3 ■jj C cc _ S * P .„ _ -^ CC cc tS . r^ -+ -^ o+i ::;1 aJi^SiSi^e-dl^ -,=« =4-1 > oj =4-1 C ^ o o 0) r o o ^ ^ cs =s .. ^ -iS --^ ?= •- ^-t: -:? -^ 2 > ^ g C r^ be it .5 S -^ o ■ ■ .h 9 3=! I igii^- I I I i li S"g I s:^«-^ .;= a s s 2=^ s - ce =4H "r^ c - I . c 7- -= ^ ^ H T 5 ^-"^ " S 'o .So ^ . I" P " -^ ^ i -^ -S c«- J i-O ^ ^ . ^ . '^ § ■ 7. ^- ^ - c: >;, r/? " ' r/) •s; fH ; S -M -* o o 3 ^ 5 " -^ ^ ^H a^^ ^ r^ -£ ^ .2 CM d = ^>a'5^^^ 2!^2^22'^>^^2§^----^ ^ 'r S^ S "^oo ^t^^ <= o^^ H ?« ^ W =^ -^ •-" S- o 2p ^ ^ _ ^ -r ^ - - ^ - > .- ?- - ^ -H r *^ 71 > > o l=i CJ ^ '^ o r' n, S ;:?^-q £ 03 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 63 •—-. — —s CM 64 WEIBEL'S INSTKUCTION BOOK. ,3 Eh {H =« Tc 5 cf ?i s 2 ^ ^ c ■;; ^ ^ • ^ ^ =*^ S^ TTl .-^ ,r" rt^ 1\ t> rr, CQ /-s I • « sgs^: --^^-1^^ i^^-t- --- s ^t^i: I ilrsi iii>E ip§§2 1^^ 3 ^^^^ WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 65 66 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. ^ t % ofo-* % co-t-A^ '^ Sl r^ • ra ^ a] _| P _ 4' ^- h Cd P 1 £S 5 L^ OJ s|f g^j^ I I ss^^ 1^ lit I I I ^\<':^o^o-^'M C3 P=M O _2cc ,;; Oj 5 J. o S 00 W .So ^ .2 S ■- .^'^IS ^ -^i I ^^ 1 .2 s "I o ^ ;;^. H r^ '-' ro '° ^ ^ a Z. n. Q.--; j.--^ =« 13 "" I ;:< ^ f» rH P * o 4 -^ ^ ^ ;! 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O t> -• ^T= 'o C!3 5^ •S W-C-] "^^ "t" !zi ' .s.s-^ •"^ -iigi": ^ Q ^ pq I « +j X Jig r-, T^K 13 ^ -g ^=^ .S .s ^ ?: .S I- o 03 a ^r,j::j t- t- S] Q 5: tH S ^1 s? g^'^' ,r- ••^ .2 S ' - 3000 ppop--^-> (K £ fafa .fafa^iqfa^i3g rH (M CO ^ '^ 10 l^ CC Oi ffi 5 * g p -5 g ggi 1 CC iiit 1 2I p s neck size in lialv( s 4 inches. s 11/0 inches. s V2 inch. 17 curA IS 11/. inches. 14 hrougli 7 to 10 on is 6 inches, more is 11/2 inches. Y om 10 to 6. a -^^j^ ^ ^00^ W lO 1 1 0) rM CO C/J 2 WEJl)l^:i/S INSTRUCTION l^OOK. 71 72 WEIJ )EL 'S INSTRIK fTION BOOK. iit|§?ii;Sg!p|l illlsl 1 i I ^ -^ ?r!^^ ?-^?oG-s a_^-.a_^^.^^ s^'^oss^ i^ ^ ^ 5 be be t _g 1 1 s 'c3 ^ H a; 1-. 5£ .-- ;-h! 1-^ C3 3 Jh g C] < 6 .s '.^2 1r :3 c ^ ■t; ^ m ?: Oj M =« ^ r^ 9 K br ,^- cc CO Oj & Ol n =2 ^ nd Z q g hS ;^=g^^ H^Si ^^ S ^^g-^Sc.. ^^ ■ ^ :: .6^^^-^% ^i^-Sc- Sis .^ g§^S" g^" g s ^ .g^s.s !-|"s-s»&l^igwi|ii.i2s •s5«|| io:^| |5=-|^ 1 ^,?iiiii|^ii?i|if^ ; ._rt rJ IE ^Lj ^ §^^^ ^f:/Jv^' a; « ^'^^ ^■\ .. -?P£ 5 S gi^^go.?g .g3oi.|5,,^^;^4^^^^o^^^g^_^g5|^^o^2-|-^gg£ go S75^g 1-111^ .^o^^^|-;f^i.S|=^gg sS^-2 3 I- " ^■ br.i q3 o S t^ -S o H:;^ ST-SS^ ^app:iH:i-HS.2 2 5'.5mSSpq 2pqf-l4=a; P=fR WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 73 Weidel's Self-Balancing and Self-Grading Method Copyright May 1, 1914, by Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co 74 WEIUEL'SINSTIUTCTIOK 1500K. goo 5-s ;:: ^S'^-" .2'Sp ^h cSpig.SP ° 2 S^"^ *" S 2 \-o al ^ rJ5-S^| ^>-' ,-; <1^-^- " g^ S^S =^^2- ^l^ §M =^ S 5 5?.^-s --Z _: ^-"o^^ -.'- :-i-^ ^f^s •^::r- -^ « s 3 ^ ,js '■ P h&c s^3 5 s.a . cS S o . ^Lo £4^ SCO 'p's (^s Sj '" J^ r- _' ^^ ^ ^ 3^ ;'5 s ,^ ^«-^^ 5 ^ X i' 2f,:5 ^^G -^iS a. g^^o^-^s^^^^S^w.S^al^SS f'-H ^-2.S 2Sfl Pjg'B §S^Sg^^sv-=nj3-..a ^^^^s-H 5 ■— F ^3 £-2 1^1^^ ? |2^"^1^ g ^- g ^ - - |i |j S S^ S^. 1^ 1-^ ^ I 11^ ^ I "§ 11 -I ?[-2 "g § 1.3 i ^-^ .3 > II •- o: X j:, a , g t; ■„ .^" 5 o; ^ ^" o c o =^ .5 •= . 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P ciu-ve at .'Ui, curve through 72 to V on sciuni-c. 73 — From 72 is I14 inches. 74 — From 73 is 2 inches, or width desired. J curve at 74, cui've to 66. 75 — Left-hand corner of square at 73, long arm touching 69, square up and make 75, one and one-lialf inches, or width desired. 24 curve at 75, curve to 7(1. Notice — Proportion Front length sliould l)e about li/. inches more than back length to waist line. For every inch the front is shorter than back length, raise dot 22 one-fourth of the amount. Example — If back is 17 and front 14, raise 22 one-foufth of the amount, which is % inch. For every inch the front is longer than the proportion front, lower dot 22 one-fourth the amount. 1 HE drafts herein contained are mostly foun- dation drafts, as we thought it best not to give many fancy drafts. As the stjdes are continually changing and Ave lielieve it best foi* the beginner to learn to draft a good FOUNDATION and then make such changes as often as the style demands. WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 77 PREFACE In placing this invention before tlie pul)lic we desire to say for tlie benefit of the inex- perienced as well as the experienced, the drafts and diagrams given herein are based on actual measure and proportion combined. We have endeavored wherever possible to use actual measure and apply same on draft as taken on person. The lines and curves are placed according to style; and best judg- ment of the inventor, and should anyone prefer to place dilferent lines from those given, this can be done according to the individual taste and not affect the fitting points as lon^ as the location of the frame work and measurements are not changed. It is not our intention to give many fancy drafts in this edition, as the tlat foundation draft is the basis of all styles of garments, and all fancy patterns are taken from them. For this reason we deem it ad\'isable for the student to learn to produce a PERFECT-FITTING- FOUNDATION before attempting to take up the more advanced studii>s. The drafts are the results of many years' experience with \'arious actual measure sys- tems, and have been thoroughly tested on forms of all sizes and shapes. The AUTHOR hav- ing done his own fitting had the advantage of seeing the results of his own jjatterns, thus gain- ing tile aetnal experience every successful cutter so much desires. By constantly working with different systems and drafting patterns of all kinds we must gain the knowledge we need and sinii)lify our work to save time, which means nuich to all who wish to succeed in any profession or trade. It should be every ambitious person's desire to overcome difficulties which, are bound to come up in every line of work, and especially so in designing women 's garments, as the styles are constantly changing. To be a successful cutter or designer you MUST STUDY and improve not only in your own discoveries, but learn all you can from every publication that will advance your interest. The wide-awake cutter will readily grasp any good points that will further his interest; re- member, Ave often learn from our students. Some prefer to the longest route to obtain the same results, but to the more progressive person who desires to advance with the times, we believe this invention will be of interest, as the SQUARE AND CURVES being combined in one piece simplifies matters and produces more graceful curves in much less time than c:in be obtained in the usual frfM> hand methods, as no gui(h' lines are required, as is customary in the old way. By this invention the person of average intelligence can learn to draft and design in half the time usually required and the lines are as perfect as the most experienced could produce. By carefully studying each and every draft as given the ambitious cutter who is inter- ested in the advancement of the science of garment cutting, will l)e more than rewarded with the results obtained. From the foundation di-afts herein given you can i)r( ter how often the styles may change, as the flat draft is the We hope all who study its pages will find food for rapidly improve with more experience. J. A. WEIDEL, The Authoi Copyrighted by Weidel & Webster Tailoring College, January, 1910 luc< ' an> stA leo f gai mei t no ma t ;iou >-ht i nd get goo<_ i results. ai id 78 WEIDEL'S JNSTKUOTION BOOK. B'zi'^ ^ S S. ^ few. *" o a! .; ^' o o S-^ £ 45 ;h o) cd ^ '^Z' c ?; j= +^ "P o oj s S ^f% o O CC 73 Qj a -^ o 9i ri ! 03 ? Lo -^ ;^ iH ^ a, 2n •^ P a3 S ry a, Q cc "^ =5 *^ , -11 c s o iQ^SDn' 1-1 3: 3 o « ^ 3 c«'-^i5 •a'^!"t .2«^WSgQ^ 03 4) O 4j .O 4§ s< =? 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S =e a '30 =2 ^ ;3 g^.sp s 0^2 cS ::=^^ pq ce g CO ,J3 be • ? l=! -rj ^ rH ^^ L>- S <3^ CZi ^^ K^F^ '^ .^ ^ ^^s s B s g| ft S3 . 2 ^^ ^ P C3 331^P~^ =4-1 -a' ^ '^,2P:5 rCl _P! ^ ecide 1 to fT ront line V, 1 -id p c WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 97 A Word About Our College Pupils desiring to do their own sewing or make garments for others can do so at the following rates. We teach every branch of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring. Each pupil receives individual instructions, no classes formed. You can begin at any time. College open the entire year. Instructions daily from 9 to 5 p. m., except Saturday 9 to 4. OUR TERMS TUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE Not less than ten days sold to any pupil. FULL COURSE, either system and 45 days les- sons, consists of instructions in Cutting, Fitt- ing, Basting, Stitching, Pressing, Boning, Draping and Finishing; with system for draft- ing all kinds of ladies' and children's gar- ments, $25.00. TUITION is always payable in advance. No extra charge for patterns it work is finished in school FULL COURSE system and Instruction Book, 45 days' lessons Drafting and Sewing, $25.00 DRESS MAKERS' COURSE, 12 drafting les- sons system and Instruction book $15.00 System and large Instruction book 10.00 10 days' lessons without system • • 5.00 Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co. ST. 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O ; -ir '^ M oj O) cc I i -^ -r O «2 pi r; a^ ^o ?|^ 2;;-g jq- > ^ ^ W o ^ S . ^ g ?: g S ^i ^ g g 5 ^-i 2 S o -e =s = •> C4 (h O 02 +^ rO ;; +J 02 .rt 02 n Tl Lll c^ ^"^ ^ O — ^ ^ c -^ i 3 "S ^ ^'-^ ^ cS S Ph CO g CS cc ^ -rt +j °c c .2i .^ "^ *^ &J0 ^ ^ 'E a^ fl °5 Oj — S ' — ' .^ ^ 1 , cC ^ O Oi CS fi S: ^ P .> % 3 . . Oi . — - «3 [j_| r— r— -^ g't; -=5 CL ^ d o =4-10) fe P,':; pS 'I' p S ^ I' , =*^ M ^ ., 5 S ., J^ •sZ. g s §■- " « ce pq a P =2 ^^^ S O; '=* 2'^ •^ -^ :P ^ .J. ^^ o io3 5P' Lii 0-1 . 1 — i •^O p S P o P aj cf:* 02 aj aa 5«i l^p '^M S > 2 .i;^^ 02 6^ a a^ a S te P «pq, 02 Qj 104 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 3 >^"-S 2 M r ^ g7^1c^ t5 00.3 K,"^^ p^? t^M ' =^.S rt , So- -2 b-5a ^=^^^' i-^ «-S s >.2.2 . 0.2 fe-^ ^- ^ r^^^^Ss:||^MJl> ^ . — S 3 » « o „ c '^2 >>■ s o " a. 5d .^ £o« o s:^^ k! ^ ^ 3 ^^ ^ 2i^2 aj ^"^ GTi ;3^.3 -1 CS . , rr^ >^ w § _• , : ,q s Ms .3 ^ - ^^ ^ !h ^.3 2 cc a +j ' ' ^" S ^ CS bCo , — . 'y CCl ^ ^; S o M •^ ^ ^ S^ ^3 "^2 g'^g i^ - o s .s ^ g ^ g ^'^ S.3 rJ:3 H WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 105 AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE We appoint agents to sell and teach Weidel's Combined Tailor's Square and Curves, and Instruction Books. Special rates to agents. No Territory Rights Sold Why pay for territory rights, when you can sell and teach the Weidel's System and In- struction Books, which is the latest up-to-date system, now being used by many of the best Dressmakers and Ladies' Tailors throughout the United States Do You Want To Travel Or take charge of a Branch School ? We give you a special training that will enable you to draft any and all styles of patterns for ladies and children, no matter how large or small the measure- ments are. We also keep you posted in all the late styles as long as you are representing us. Some of the Many Advantages the Weidel System Has That Are Worth In- vestigating Before Purchasing Some Other System WE Make all the curves with a pencil, by the curves on the square. No freehand curves required with this system. MAKE Drafts of every style of garments, no matter how often styles may change; also large Book of Instructions for reference. YOUR Garments fit when drafted by the Weidel System of measurement, which adapts itself to the different attitudes of the form. WORK Done by this system saves the customer time, as well as yourself, as the measure- ments produce perfect fitting garments. A Person need not be good at figuring, as the square does the figuring and applies the measures. PLEASURE Awaits those who receive a thorough course in Drafting and Designing of Gar- ments, as good cutters are always in demand at salaries from $20.00 to $50.00 per week. 106 WKIDKI/S INSTIUK^TION iJOOK. -^ oj o +f O o fo^=2 3 ? nj be^-^f^ ^ j==« S •S^-go p S be ^ «■ =■? -73 o t^ "I»l& :3 '^•« ^ ^ ^ be '^ :=^2 MHWS-^^ § 2 ^ i^ r— -^ ^^Jri3 ^. S ^ $ from B ' square ine 4, ai ch addec If inch s 5 by lin be ? ^ be b£'^ 1 a c ^ ^ '^^ S S5 « . '^ ^ i^ ?^' £h^ 5 S' •^ CO r-! o d r^ rd ?3 o "^ S s 2 T ■-5 "o S . ^ s CC Ph C O S S ^ p rOs^c;:;sS-iM'» . c^«S S ^ 5 be (^•^j^ CM IB ;:= 't -i o -^^^ ^ on^ ^ ca grw cSSid«2.2=2 ,^ ^'3 3^:2^ ^,i^ qT i CO 5 a'S3^3 =^ *^ t^ O rt o j^.Oi 2 ^ =« -5 -^ a)3So"S^^^og^ CO o --^ be O C3 0; S cS ^5 -^ Oj O) o '<-i a; ^ J:; cc S a'S ^^2 ^ '-I r-i- ^ r^ h5 ^ pq^.2 03 O S 5S" o:^sii^i: '^^ 2 S 05 rt p^fq J a ? o — .1^ O o3 ,^ CO ^^ 2 . •--^ -3 2 O > -TS -=S ^-^ J -g 2 be 03 ^ , o s ^ P a Q p a: CO p=-^ a ^c^a ts =;:; be g > o ^ ^0 ^ rS o S o 'Z ^ ^ ^..^ ^ o rni raise 3U stoops lower dot 'Ct. So Is x .2--S '5 ^ Q CO t2 CO' ^ "-H wi ^ be S ? .;^ ^ stoopin inch a I erect fo they ar ;q Sw » O-^ •i§2 O a rr-! be^H ^ 2 P'^M bc3 ^o^ r^-S o-s ^•^•§ H 00 si .02 o3 ,02 ^pqf^ - -^ O *^ <1 O r^ h ^ iti ft* ci '-q J. ^ 3j " ^ 0) o be i ' ^ ;:^ -r-i OJ •- &^ o . Ph CO o o 02 O '^ "5 '^ ri S 'o ;^ 'rt CO =;:^ ' '^ r^ 'be '^ CO 3 fl3 J =" ^ OJ CO '^ .+J dj 03 si; J; be o^_cs3^^52-j: ^ 2 . ?^ =M 03 o ^ oe S ^ CD - 5i -:: bet4-< :^ pq ;? W h^ O 1^ M t-q ^c, be J be^be-be., i^ «2g is g — &ffl 3 g 2 o CO d '^'■*"*^g g^ ° a be^- - ■ -^ ?«3 c'^S 5=c^.>; ^iJ-^-S o^Hg i'S'^ o J-..^ ^^ i^q pi .5 WKIDKI/S iNSTinU'TlON HOOK. 107 108 WEIDEL'S INSTKUCTION BOOK. ^ 3 S •-! „ k> C/-J >. p .S ~ .5 i^ at' O "^ ^ ."^ ^ I'-' ^ !^ .' .3 II ^ ,-^ C -^ ^■Z^'T, O ^ -^ c^ S S 9 o s Sir- -i^1gi5^ii|g| I -I- 1 *fi- •sii|-i° •I 2^ ^^ I:^§^|1 S^ S § I 1;:^^.^ - S g g - S-^'J |..g /; : S ^ SH 5-g^ ^ i i |g; a i £| 1^ ^; , ^^ §f -^^=2 s J2 o^ g J-^3t . I ill 1^1 wj fiiiir ^ >< ;i4 fi 2^ 5 w s ^Mi^ '0 oj pi •? :"^ M H ^^.s< M ^c.^ 44 -rt4^ >> W^- ^ ^ q_i -j::^ t?- M r=\ ^ s ^M P ivt rt s Oi &c s >{ g?^^ ^". ■^„2ip ^M ^2^'!!?^c|2o -^^pqS^x^ O |3 ^ o ,9 £ - . -H .3 .3 0^ 2 :3 , r =t; '^ ^^f^ >.=f^ .3 o ^2 « ^- 3 2 ^ ^ -q ^ go. ^•2 «§d^2 ^§^§&«§ l^l.l^ii'^^.^::|g^o=^8^ ^§ cc '^ .3 a; " ^ rS .3 a -^ a a ^ ^ ^. , -^3, ■^W 5S-^g.:S:2s^^^'^ia)+^'^ fc-^ "^I^^^M^I^d^ g^M^ § %^'^ 2 a -^Mo 2 § ^^ 2 a^ %Z%^-^ ci rh •-' r^ ^1 r->--< ^ u r-i a s — i --h eg cS '-' i! •^. tpl -^: . ^- o ] -j2 ^ . ^ ^ p -s CO -^ >o '^ <1 -S "^ a> cu ,, .S " £; ^ 1<1 ^ S «2-.5 a H P a^r^-^J"^ §N.^ ^Pl cS cC ^ a.2_^^^ " rt 3 ^^f^'Jo^'^'g t^M p^So« a3„ ^ i?;^ai c^g.^ ^ =^.3^00^3:1:^^2 -^^^2 2^-2.-* ^~. >- ±: t — I CD o 'Tiacs en r-i-H-_ — ^n* O "^H-H rt'^ ^ h|^;3> •^.^^SMi;^c.-S£-^^°2-P^-^i^2^^gs';^^^^ J CH-3 "pH^^pMp^-r^ ^tH^gpp^ ^ opq^p CoccPPj^^OPP^H^ :oca?: cCOa:=4-i o t^a:! o cC .S+J WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 109 =4H o iH !ifH S o •H o Oj r5 ^ " ^^ ^ ^ ^'^^^-■^^ 2-g 4^W 2"^ IIf:^ _2 !^ "3 p sa^". 0) a3 OCp ^ S><1 ^1 CCC5H ^^'«^ S^>'S tZ" t'S 7^ (D tS -^ ■r- ^ bj-j -r^ 7:^2^0) C?^;r3 « '^ .^ 1^ * •2^ ^o c '^ f^ ^S^i^^ -5'^ ^ ■or.: g b ?^ ^ S :: « -^ -Z " - — c -7 ■" d ?. ?-: c -^ OJ e o ■;:3 •So sr^s^h^ 4:s .. ^cTSrtS ^-cc Sx x^'gaH?c^ww^^psp;3cgp-Qp;Q^:^.2g?.x2^fr.-=g|^ no WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 3 ^'^ r^ ■+; '^ ^ '^ ns ^ C 03 • o o '+^r^ ce ■+-• p S $ 1 — ' & o O > • c; (M ~<* d.S S ^ rt « cs ;:i S 13 ■ S Si ?.^~ I S ,^ 2 I K f> ^ £ ^ p g <3 o o -^.-5 :2 Ph1s MM rH ? OJ H 8-0 !MM.3 S ! o o ^ ^"" 5* 2M hImwqqwq^p^Gq^ ^ -.JS M, ^5M pH >.S o ■* go oj 3 a ' lo 13 °« ri ■:;:2 I^^S te a LO " 2 H :3 o 5j M^P a; § ^ f3 2! ti w 3 r? ^- ^ ?: o III =4-1 2:3 2 P §P ai a 3 ;- crt o) a ■^ P 3=4-1 -2 .S ? -2 PQ O 25 O ^ > o _^ W .^ I § § M o W — Jr-J H !i^ Q ^^ ^ O S =* o ^=^ g oJ ^'^i>^ 2 a :r " wj a^ «; tf rt a ^ E* ^ :^=tH g^ oj o a 00 '^'^ &p'^ tH ^ <1J CS > 2 o S "2^ W !i4Q _^ ■ ^ O c '^SW-^^ 5j^, -e.iS 2P ^-i L^'bt'^ 2 a H ) CO -p a 1) a •'H a ^' ^^ & a ^-^ ^^ a * ;pq^^_10wWhJ^tiPPt^H^ ce Oi " a 6 tr. - a 0C13 -4^ a „ ^ -- e: s-4 _2 "^=3 ^ _a _2 as --i "o .2 1 ^ OS ^ - ^ 05 » u o I CO -5 CO - (0 I 114 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. ^W^ .S c r^ i5 r-. S o ^ g c p p ■-^^ -- S^ .3lo -m.S S ^ a w ^ ^•s ^^ ^'" ts S 2 S '^'^^ n ;^ oj CS 0) O r?- ^ S ^ ts»: ca ^ «^^ cS :,^Mj o S S ^ t^ ?-~ a rJ &.3 o =S i - § o oj p ,_! .rH a; rt _S_oo 2 _S i P Q O « 5'^ _^ O^ '^^ ^ ^Cl ^ ' J fe^ P cr< g 5c cS cs o !.2"S .^.3 : '^ -^ 2^ 'S^ivj S CS ■ o « i M p V^ i 3 =S Tjd o d ^^ be =« ^ > !^ £ ^ s ■ -i -j-j CO ^ ;h > ^ o o^ sip LQ «2 1^ oj S ^ w ^•3 C g^^ ni ^1 O 'TJ 'i .q aO o WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 115 y?""^ ,j<5 / r^ y ^^^***5=^ -^ - 8 „ II 1 / Z*'^ / — ■ — ' V\^ DRAFT 12 o V ■^1 ii / li«ctkw.e™. v 116 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. .B ^>'% i Js ^"5c -Tt^ s ^"Hog a^l— 1 O c o d- w ^.^'a K oj g g =2M 1 ^ Ooi §•2^- 3^^ .2 §1 -S- o. ^ ^ p.^ 'S S S M ' ^^-^i 3 JS '±^ 3?§ 7^-S p S is \3 '^ '^ S cfi cc p'-^ Sa2 ^ S o 5^ E w fe Z fe RX^=3 an .S^'^ O) 33 =3 o 2-^ ^ : o >^ ^<|9 ^5 "" aS ^ 0^-43 cs c3 fl "^ p,^ ^ O a fcJD'=4-l CJJ IB ^3 M .S -^ +^ -S .3 > "" 01 be «-^=: S g o fl 3 ' '""o^S fl s ^ P.g 7^ o O -fl ^'s ^ r— <& . =4-1 1) gS be ■J} o t4 . H O \A Eh si o 6 _^ NIS! ^^ 'I O O fl "" w^ 2 « .- ^ s oj '"" fi ^ o . ^ 5 ^ i'H 3.Sm Q ^.s^p, *■ X ^ ^■^ ^, ^ W 01 ^ =^ ^-Mcs*^oa.Eco c =^ ^ .2 ^ .a =* 0. §3.i£°£§3^ a, o; . -^ -^ J^ s ^ § § -^ ^ c o P g 9 fe -.t":;;- '-^ p g s c^ ^ ^ -2.2 » k; « p. 2 -2 S.2S' c» W O M fl fi <^ ^ W <:» i-^l ■ ^ cS P ^ = +^ brj fl ^ S ^3 2 ^- S '^ S S ^ - « « J O r— ;.2 fl . •rt -rt ^ ^^ oi ^ .-~. fl fl M ►-5 :^ !z; fl 2 c a-- si Sflflfl WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 117 /^ ; '"^-z. / V^ ' V ' 1 \\ N 1 V, 1 ^^^~~~~-^ A / ; LEBOTWBB FOU. -^/ - 118 WElDEL'f^ JNSTIUIOTION BOOK. \At ^H^ t:^ 0; Ph K sr 'X ■ -^r. ,. ^ -^ o 5 \: s I sac cC P P •5 t-^ 00 ^ u ij s, 2 g ^' J > a* s Oi =S ^. *~5 . s ^c-lc CO & ^ P Ii S a; CD r^ 0) Zt 5 CC ^ Htol Draw Draw Cto J Draw 1^ P ■s cc "7^ P ^ a- WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 119 120 WEIDEL 'S li\8TK UCTION liOOX. 'q3 rf^ .J "y S Q S'T! -ti "^ '^^ ^. .;^ ••^S'S'l^'^'^K^O C3 izi cc O ^ Sgc.saa.u^ot> H .S cq -" ^ iS ^^.iq -S" :=^ ^ ^ ^in o d W 1 m "i S fti .5 ;5 ^-^ ■ n jj _. /T^ 0^ CQ r-^ S_i ?*^ r- ^"^ ■+-' Z- ^ 3 nj ^ Vr.f- go ^ - °=*.-^^2^^^^-.2-^'"'sS-£r^2 a; -rH ■ CS fS WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 121 122 WEIDML'S JNSTRITCTION BOOK. 51^ >19 E-i'O c O Sh '' ^ :5 o ft; P ?^ 00 "o oM.2 OJ ^ h^ o O tM ^ § c« S o^Virag t» Qj ^ •-^ S ° o cc P (Xi O •=1 cS ^ s § O O CL> «D a^ P .5 o 1^ C^ > O Ph H O H Q Eh H 5 p p .§ ^ :^:ilf. -X 2 ;« ^ ^ ^ t; +^ -t^ ^ ^^ « s a. 2 r ^ ^ - ^ - - I 'be S -^ |e § 2 11 O ":: ~^ rrt .-I .^ ' -'ri i'^ > ^ -. . . . ^ . ':P^' ^^ ?S S -i^ ^'rJd f3 3 rQ r^ ^ g (^ .S .25 'r^ .2 =53 <= ^ .52 "r^; .S -1^ =<-< 2:1 ^ ■'^ '^ 2 ^ « .52 S 5Pm -M .Ah a^ •S.g.^ be _o o i^ ^ o cc _o _o "^ o ^ a, .2 c O .-s P^ pcy ^ c^ o c i aj '-^ Oi lO ^D o o 03 fl n ^n _-< ^ ^ % t rj,^ 'AW 9-, "' Q 3 S GO .a rH a. a, ^C t: S -^ .^ S -2 CO p£ ^.'S ..:3 0;=,.^ O =» Si i .2 § o .2 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 125 Measures for Draft No. 19 22 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 41 1.. Side 41 Back A (?) 126 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. r^ +J CO ^jl a- a^ S^K^^, - o -5 -= ^ •^ • ^ 7^ r^ i ween IV. nger L t C5 CC ^§1^g S^S'^ ^ s B 'i -1^2f-S oj-j'ti p ? S r^ " - > CS ^ CS Oj M ir t^ =4-1 FnStH 1'^"' CC mT?;^ re S ^ oj K-. cc ' — ' br. '^i ■" be 1 rO O; c brj o 5 o ^q; ' ;5 ,_ ^ cc ? oi ^ cS '"3 cC Oj 03 i-O cc , Q 3 p ^^-p j-.q Is i o ^ s c '-^ J M ^. '-^ O ^, " C p^ S ^ a> i; r o fl ^ -' a; "^ i. tM ;:3 JH -^ . H; O; iSp ,. c J- , K S be ^ • O cc o"2oSi^Slci^''=3 ■2 5^ 'T; j:; o jh ^. , 5i 'd r=; 2 o cc I =*H ^ g ,, J« p p o P H.ij) -^ 03 CE .3 w w c OJ S ^ .^ -^ o --*^ ^ ="7; g CC.2 oj aj a o'^ , ■~< -^ o -^ M >-:> r- 00 ra g oj _ o '' j3 -:=4H HW P P^ ^^ 'D* WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 127 Measures for Draft No. 20 22 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 41', Side 41 Back 128 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. X S •— 1 •^.'-' -^^ -^ "^ r^ "kT^ 2 i; ^2.s '^3 o ^ ."iz; CO ."T; "r^ . S^.g^^oSO'-^ -^^-l^o^o^a.^. lO.^ --^ .^ L^--H I- -^ .S .3 .5 o fs QO SO > O OJO ^ O, ^ o ^ ^ « ^- g 5 cc 3 rt , ■^ 'Jr 3 S ^ CO O .ri P ii oj j: ^ \< ^^ ^ a; S W E^ S S o qh3 S s S^ p: :3 « .. -g o o :S q ^- g bp.3 i:0 So o o o cb^ rt 1=1 1^ r3^ I : 5W S ■73 O CO cc o S a ''• ^ c o (mS 0-2 s i S £ g^--.-r S o a. isl go.2 B ^ S c ^ -^ -^ ^ dai of d line, 14 tape nia es in is a "2 & &r-- sris ?r^ «o 5 § ^^ ^ CC' !h cs " ^ ^ ^.S C4_, -4-e O W S '^ S 5 2 OJ !-i CS ^ t o 2 s 2 ;^ I f fc "^ ^ ^ s -g .2 ^1 ■> g" ^ S t; -* .t; «o ."S Jz; o :3 o:3 o o s o -^ S^:::^ .S !^ CI ^ ^ c, gcSO^W, rt ,-H r-1 ,-n ^^0;hC • ^ ^rj -^ „■ r^ r^ f: =; -^ K ■*-' ;!; .ti ,-1 .ti rH .-ti !>: .ti Tj! g a, ;^ s i^ :g> 3 C .^ 151 -tL O P 0|_: tn i g o ^-: ci-i 2 3 c c I oj jc g g-^ O r- ^ M ,15 cS -h" K o f^ o c o o ■ b3 +j +j 03 - - w ^ -— fe 1^ tn '' f' "^ ^ C q; cc .2 '^ ^ ^ " =s .S "■5 0,^: Q^l 1J is . S 03 aj =*^ LO 1= widtl dies i twice ^pqo^ 2Q ^1 S =s ; -g '^ O cS ■ o g t^ S s P^ ?r.^'^. ^ g-3 C' 2 '^ T-^ o a. o <1 E « K %^ B bE.22 =S ^ -5 3 -^ J^ O g °fi^ o o 3PE w1 C|_| "-^^vl ■ 0. 3 ^ ^ fe <■■£> r^ W 5 ^ ^Ci 1 o «2 s 5 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 131 scjuai-e at AX, and long arm touching EX ; now draw lines 28 and 29. "^ ^iake a dot half way between AX and FX, and square up Y2 inch, then draw lines to star. AX to GX is 1/4 inch more than AX to Z (see dotted line). Draw curved line 32 from A through E, H, I, N, 0, T, U, Z and GX. The space between lines 6, 7, 10, 11, 14, 15, is thrown away and is not used in the skirt. In cutting material all seams must be al- lowed as the |)atterns are drafted to the exact measurements. Measures for Draft No. 22 22 Wai8t 38 Hip 40 Front 41 1., Side 41 Back "^^"""^^--^^ ~^f ^ ^%> ^V" Z I Jjvaa ,^,^ lawa i «> "'^'^ * '''^ 4 «X^ i'/r //r awndiH 132 WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. O _ r^ j" o . ^ Oi -^fi fe.S' o ^ ''^ s s'Z (33 J ^ p 5i 5 - "^ ^ '^ ^ §.1 •-2 o!>^ 3 S o o ce :^q^ Oi ^ o o cc SI 'cc > "^ ' ir* +-' "^ uJ « .rt ^ ^ G- '^ !^ re ^ 0) ? « '^ s ^ J (M a; _g be:" 2= ^^ S CO --H-rH ■feb ^ "^ — ce ^ =S .S S I 2 'x .^5 '~ .j; ^^ M S ^ ^ - 'S '^ O 2 rH "-5 .-1 ,1, S "^ CO . ■ Cj O 3 tc J; 1c 9 g^W' 02 +j ^ o g 0- ^ brj =*^ S ^ c S cS al s .a - OS or les toL. squai -^ f^S'^ S^^ •c.B a ^ -s ^ "43 1_^ .ru < 5 '^ ce -s • '-3 £ g ^ ^ g o cc^ ■| £^ g -2 ^^ o g ti^ "o Ph ^ Oj a; cS ih ^ 1 §M O ;h ■ S ^li cilj cS • 2 S^Slo-^ g ^ a- o a^ o li??:-^!-!'-;?!-!! CO ;h 0^ a; S £ S § cc C S "o O " , " ce S cd s o lo l^ o o o o pE 5n g S « lO Tr^^.X^ s s g pLH a P<3 O g'^^-s S.& | ■ 2 1 5 g ^ 8 ^ g.^ a s -; CO (V, .^ cc g be ^ S'^ cd S^+J c a,' o .S o .in O S A" ils^^ - o t^ , H .:= o O _ it:; 0; ^2 o c 5 S '5 g .- '^- ^ ^ s t^K o g.2 p '3'g ai=g xH OQ a H^ C3 +^ r- C o p ^ p "tl -^ S-^ O-i; >5 ^ s 2 ^H -^ +;. y 3,, o.S ^ --^ "^ "o P p — ■ =^ vn a.'-' ■'" O ^ > r:- c a^ ^ wo o o o-S P S O to ^ ^ S CS &-^ ^ ^ ^^ ^ ^ .2 -^ '- = S S ^ o § 2 § .2=tH=s-^ a .^ C' cc -^ [^ -5 c it; ? ^O'^ ^ d^ 8 o ^ P -s.^^- CO ^ r— , I I |_g| ^P p-^-^^M bt^'O'-^^ CH a; a'r3 M 53 «H .2 .2 ' \p\^ S .- f< o i't .1^ 1 '2; bC CD s w f: -r hH Oj OJ r^ ■,~ br O r~ >. f1 HP ^ rrt ^ U" Cfl WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 133 Measures for Draft No. 23 Waist 45 Hip 41 Front 40 1.. Side 40 Back £Z ^V^o ^ -^ <^?^ y ""^^^ xuva 134 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. ?>:i o •^ f c ^ 2 b« M § t^ r^ O • OJ "^ O & "^ •'-' ShPn o3^^ cecct> o75£^ 3 ^ Notice — As '' ont piece anc e hip measui X and EX. With curv le 18. With 12 cur^ 3h. R e amo nter li Draw curve ont go With CO i «5 ^ ^ .3^S ^^ ^ r^ ■^ ^ ^:2<^ -^ WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 135 ^ SOLD BY Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co 3838 OLIVE STREET ST. LOUIS, MO. PRICE, $1.50 Where garments are purchased ready made, it will ofttimes save its cost in the alteration of a single skirt. THIS little device is somethini that every woman should have in her home. Tiresome fittings and refillings are avoided by ustas the Parisian Gauge, Six minutes is all that is necessary to hang your skirl perfectly so thai its length is uniform and the same distance from the Boor at all poiots. There is no feature in the making of a skirt so important as seeing that the bottom does not hang lower io one place than in another, and at the same time nothing more discourag- ing than the number of (ilUngs so often necessary to secure saUsfactory results. What a delightful relief and pleasant experience to accompUsh It Will Last Life Time Patented July 17. 1906. four fillings of from 20 e in one short fitting a result that heretofore oftlimK has been impossible three-quarters of an hour each. The secret of the immense popularity which this Gauge enjoys is due to a narrow eight-inch arm, curved In conformity with the natural drop of the skirt, over which the hem is easily turned and pinned as the person turns around. This arm is raised or lowered on the graduated upright rod to any height desired. When one hip is larger than the other, as is singulariy true of most women, the use of the Gauge is here keenly appreciated, as no error can possibly result, inasmuch as you are measuring from the floor up and the skirt must tte an equal distance from the carpet at all points, front, sides and back. Tbere Is no clialk used with the Parisian Gauge. The employment of chalk or crayon has always been highly objectionable for several excellent reasons: (1) Crayon must be used with caution on some goods as it is often- times extremely difficult of removal. (2) Chalk marks are practically indistinguishable on white goods. (3) How- ever, the real shortcoming lies in the fact that it is with extreme rarity that you do nol have to go over your skirts three or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results. The reason is obvious: A woman being fitted wUI invariably settle to one side so to speak; she throws her weight on one limb, and lust as sure as she does, just so sure will the dress goods approach nearer the floor on the side on which she lowers the hip. In chalking that side of the skirl bottom you will find that in assuming an erect position, the skirl being drawn up will carry your crayon mark higher than you intended. This technique we have just described is very faulty and should never be employed. What is to prevent a woman settling, as you say, with the Parisian Gauge? In the first place, the bottom of the skirt is firmly fixed by being pinned over the curved arm, which effectually prevents the bottom of the skirt from descending any lower; consequently should she incline to the side, as is so often the case, her faulty position isinstantly nanifested in the sudden bagginess or looseness of the skirt between the hip and the hem you are turning (bottom ! FIXED, while the hip descends, shortens the distance between points, the hip and the arm, with the resulting bagging). Her , therefore, may be corrected instantly. The Parisian Gauge is indispensable for home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments Qg with the Gauge, as the curved arm may be raised to any height from thefloor. This Gauge is handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the sewing room. It is 10 inches high, graduated in «! and 1 inch scales; weighs about 2 pounds, and will nol tip over while In use. ^ 136 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK ci ■+J Oj ^ c/;' q=^ I1| Z^;?^ ct cc cC cC cC OT X 0/ Oj C; 0,^ 3-' ^ C^ ' 0^0,0.3 > ^ tZJ S£ O; pi ^3 ^H fe C G O p— 1 "3 s §_S^ 2 rt gqi.S g S 3^ .. '^ S o ic -^ ^ .2 ^ ^ ^ ■ ►>^ Cl iM ^ IM Oj CO sh ;h r3 cS cS ^ _£.■ .^ s 3 g p J >2; ,5 cc ° a- cc • S '-f-' '^ o a- o-.S i >-..S =5 - -Spq 3 2i2-2 2-== o ■£ S^i: i OJ -(J tn WP :-'^=£ - 2 > "^ = ^ go ; o 3 P P ?: O 2 '5 ^ ^O P r3 ? O '^ i2 JJ t: r^ -^ re 3 bed' t M o +^ ::2 q:3 "^ Q^ S C 5 , ^ tc O) OJ cfi 3 ^vCS — ^-pQ 72 O ^p SP p=i^ OJ ^ (^ O) ^ C o O O W PkPI^P N N ^^1 1>^? 3-=^^ ;sz oZ"-- locates me as D 1/0 inch HI Us .2^0 .2.2^ ^ o S S p S 5 -s •- o ^ =2 -^ ;" o c S 5^ > 2 w^m'; I' o. +- ^ - o ^ ^ s ' ' a 5 ^ P O O p ^ ^ ?; " rf: =^ — P"^ o o _o u^ o +-> -^^ ^ 44 -t^ o C !1> CC' p^ +f ■ +j +j ^ ce =s =5 i^p Oj ^ CC > !« g O CC . .■^^ &< a 3P =«-^ «« -:B '^ 3 oj 2^ ^ o^ §} s * c 1 ^ o o ce I S-3 o^' ^ 02 p; J; p Q, i S CC ^ Ol cc r- 03 5^ 3 o a;ij^"'~'.2 S 5 o -p 1 1s I ic ^ ^ 02 §o3^ s ^ & ^- a" 1 LO • -H > u-*:! cc c^^ s- •r4 tj --P - ^ -^ 3 ■*- S 03^ .& ^:gmo -2 o -^p g<^m "^ o'S' 3 =« .2 "^ 2q:2 "^' oj 5 o ce o ^P w^ c^.^ . o i CO -* S a; ^ ; S S.2-^.2 i^"" p bP ^ 9 ^M '^ 2^s:: si -I t^ s i-^ S ,, =0 00 .;:h p js ce aj oj o Sa20.2 > — O '^ -^ "^ ^1 m :/j •^ ?; .r-l u tB ^ p^d S i rt > g ^« 5 ; 9 o < ; -H •' cs • ;? fs P te -^ 11 ^ ^. o c o a; Oj c^ ce cs cs 1^ cs ^^ ^~' rt^-'o Ti S o S S 13 +J -1^ -M LO 'S -rH cs cS cS cS ^ .S > O . .ti ^ ."rt o ."S ^ .ti t>^ .ti GO ."t^ cri .ti ^ ; - .S CO T— I ^1 O ' 1^ Si's -rt '^ >l> CV' was t-^-^y 2 iC'^ r 5 o 2 c ^ C .:=, icckIP ai>HxP N 5 ^ p i 5 . &c o ^<3': "TO -< p o -^ 9 cc cS cS P K^ re - oj ^ O) ' ^ o fH re o •orjr.^1 c» ^ g o K^ re ■ t/3 +^ o S iC ^ a; ^^ ■re o reM 7^ to O M _; <^1 S O) OJ ^ .£3 O CB ^J "d l-^ CO 1^ .;:^ -s o "T-. re ^W =<-i 1-5 y o re ^ ^ SpH S !S <^ S" r-r- f^ .s s 2 y^ re & a; o-^ P bid ^ ;i^ 0[i4 =« S § ^w. , 2 o P '=^, o o _ r^^ ^ ^^^.■^ rt .rt 0.- a.' -*-. t— I re '-n '•-!-( o \o re ■;H 33 OC re ^■Sr-1 rt ^^ cc re re re goo S^P ■-^ O "^ a; .2 o^ § ^2; M O S S r^ M -^ H O WEIDELS INSTRUCTION IJOOK. 141 no 12. AVitli 11 curve at waist-line draw line :U into ne 12. With X ciii-ve at waist-liiic draw line ;!.■) into ne i:!. With 11 curve at Avaist line draw line :i() iutd ne l.-J. With () curve at waistdine draw line 157 into n." 14. With 12 curve at waistdike draw line oS into ne U. With () curve at waist-line draw line 89 into line 15. With 12 curve at waistdine draw line 40 info line l.-j. Xotic< — The iioods between i^ores is usually cut out so as not to make too nuicji thickness around hips (see lar^-e darts between front pieces). Tlie seams are placed wherever the selvedge edge comes in under a jdait. This depends on the Axddth of goods. Measures for Draft No. 26 22 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 40',. Side 41 Baok y 8 a w 1 9 J 142 WEI DEL 'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. d^ .iS i ■^ ^ b'^P 41 'o S :3 — 3 o ^ ° S S -• ?=■> T 2; o m K- o rH -J:; s « -a^ !? j^ O 2^1 p$ ■^ 'in ro- , T (N ^ f3 T CO ^ 13 8 d « H ^M i?l = - =; rt S3 T c ~ c O Q i =+H .- ,_^ H m L- ?^ 'X WJ -S S.5 <1> cc o; 3 i" §3 3 O ^2 Pl<1Q^ 2 K P^ fi^WP .« '^ .r1 CC C CO s .5 s tcO^ m CO o 4 o """' rO c "+ cc Oi ; '^ -ji: "^ ,pq^ s =; " 53 rO . p _3 o 'w «D t^ C7-- .S o J; Oj 3^ .S •" .S ( 3 § 3 § § ai o o) r.^ M .S <^ o .s 3 =e .5; -^ ^ 03 ^ rh ^ S .0. ;S ^; !3 ^ ^ £ > .i: nS H S ^ S g ^ ^ ^ d 3 " ^ « cc =s rg j^ M oi N ;; ^ g o o o o o ^ » o -w o ^ =t^ ;^ .2 s ^ pq^ t-r^ ^^ 5 we rqW ^'7^ o s ^ " ^ 3 -! -C 4 wry MP :5 W^ fi 5 ^ " r W^ C -^' 3 ^Z ^ ^-^2 •-^-- WQ "PpLn-fviPn' EH -^k^< IS (M p h^ w ■m O o< ,S^ Oh^ h C5 "o c Iz; ^ H 2 S^P CO ^c^i.S § P^c^ s :^^^^ ^ uO ^ ^ •2S.2S 3 a s »^ m H-Tpf fn'^'TT a%o% ^o>^ ^PQP "pqpp 'p > "~o 42 hCo ^'it P >H « £ '^ g Draft No. 2 by line 1. neck measn by line 2. B" to C are ^aS w;^^ Pm §5^ ill =2-'^ 13^ 5 « are line 3 B is ba are line G anf =* ^ S p ?2 3 Us ^ ^ «> CS CS-^ m-.qH 2 -^ ^ o aj «:> -^ rt -fe-^ 2^3 § CS TfH =J -^ p ^ 6 " ^ +J ;; 2 ^. < %t p ^ ^=-, "be ? ^ ■I § pq| - , s ;=i a -f :;:: L-^ c 5 P i>" Eh «2 M EH .PS l-H O 5i 3i Oi .• •Q--s|-s;:m^ ^ o o QJOP CO o •H 'Sf pq.S LO M ;h I rd 3 H ^ o OH •? 3 fe g R •o . d -5^ O a i; •" -:■-.=; > p. 2 'H ;a2 sm EH PJ M w 02 P^ O Ph P3 . <;eh Si::! og o^ o Q !zi P^ Eh OS' WETDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 145 COLLARS, CUFFS & NECK BANDS •^^.^^ =^ c r ' A 1 1 DRAFT 3 1 :> / B ■~>^ D , f DRAFT 30 ' f B E C B F iLxT* DRAFT 34 146 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. p -^ i g be S PI C3 -S Oj j^/H^ ^ CO P ^ ' ^* rr'. '^. •p ^ ?i = v^rr- Sec £■ 0/ Oj _ ' ■Sp t«^ p O O -^ rH .S P == s 2 ^ '■^■^ . Si. oiS = Qj ^ O ^' P O" -M P cs ce a^ ? ^-^ o P. s' 5; o 0^ OC o O s P cS IS P^ S O J P-^ i be O ^ C 'o.S-iil be g ^ p i o p islli WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 147 DRAFT 39 148 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. <1 Q y ^ 1 •? .. ^^ S ^ 03 ^ ^ cc- •- S ^ M k'v ^^ ^ ^ im ^ ^ g &1^ OS s 1 2.3 <^ r^ '"' S '3^ O ^ .-ti iM ^ fee H £ 5^ ? oj - .-*^ ^ '^ S « 03 cS Oj o ^ fe dj Oj dj S ^ 6 r-H -< .-I dj |> I--, a i I ^ So 3 .S T3 "3 O p, 53 c O o CO k WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 149 DRAFT 40 150 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. Draft No. 40 X. Shows pattern after l)i'iiig cut and spread on a:oods. WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 151 DRAFT 40 X 152 VVE1DEL'« INSTRLIdTiOJ^ BOOK. o '-^ 5 ^*^ a;, r^ -^ ^ P^q3 ^R.'H^ s Leg-O-M and dra a line t mbering 42X she iterial. on the A\ a 1-inch g ^ ci s -4^ o O Q oj pj 5 ' ^5^ 9^ &i^ ^ V WEIDELVS INSTRUCTION BOOK. DRAFT 42 153 154 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. W-S So & ^ 9 (U WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 155 DRAFT 45 156 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. ^^ > =« S O S «J coco cS WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 157 DRAFT 45 A DRAFT 45 B 158 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. K I 1 S W > • c o ^ H "S ^ -S ^ J a =s I ^ ^ o -s - : ^ (B a : £ S p I B ^ ^ i S = g- 3 p S CJ -.. --. ^ ., ^ 1^ S. ^ S ^^ 0; pj 0. p p ^ CO O ""^ ^' o '^ Oj ' — ' ^ '^ '^ J£ n 3 c':^3 ajcilr'^'^Sr-^"i=oS^-'=sP> WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 159 A Word About Our College Pupils desiring to do their own sewing or make garments for others can do so at the following rates. We teach every branch of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring. Each pupil receives individual instructions, no classes formed. You can begin at any time. College open the entire year. Instructions daily from 9 to 5 p. m., except Saturday 9 to 4. OUR TERMS TUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE Not less than ten days sold to any pupil. FULL COURSE, either system and 45 days les- sons, consists of instructions in Cutting, Fitt- ing, Basting, Stitching, Pressing, Boning, Draping and Finishing; with system for draft- ing all kinds of ladies' and children's gar- ments, $25.00. TUITION is always payable in advance. No extra charge for patterns if work is finished in school FULL COURSE system and Instruction Book, 45 days' lessons Drafting and Sewing, $25.00 DRESS MAKERS' COURSE, 12 drafting les- sons system and Instruction book. . . $15.00 System and large Instruction book 10.00 10 days' lessons without system • 5.00 Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co. ST. LOUIS. rf^' '/! INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR W^EIDEL'S Combined T<\iilor Square and Curves One Piece for [Drafting every size, shape or form ]. A. WEIDEL Inventor The square used by all mechanics Every time You draw a line (You say that looks fine Ti.) be made in such a Shc^rt time because it was Drafted by WEinEL'S SQUARE AND CURVE COMBINE You needj not make any free hand curves Which are qu't-e trying to your nerves And wh^n your draft is al) complete Yo'u are delighted to know y()u accomplished the feat For some woi'l