til/>('' 'c.t-^;' :iii!i;!|(;. ■1^ CONXKNTS. ILLUMIALiT/OiVS AND FULL^PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 2 5 1 1 15 18 19 Washington, I). C, MoNUMENXi, Chicago, . . . New- York City, Nature in the North, preceding i Yosemite Valley Nature in the South, " The Natural Products, facing Historical Map ok the U. S., . Political Map of the U. S., . .4 Population Map of the U. S., 10, The Presidents Portrayed, . West Point, The Military' Service, .... Annapolis, The Naval Service, .... PAGE. 75 Washington, D. C, . . . . 151 Niagara Falls, 5 161 217 605 (iettysburg monuments, . . Yellowstone National Park, Nature in the East, . . . Nature in the West, . . . 23 27 715 S93 952 953 The Maps of the States form an Atlas arranged in their alphabetical order and cover the 48 pages from 461 to jos. DESCRIPTION AND MAPS: TEXT. MAP. PAGE. PAGE. United St.ates, .... 3 2, 4, 10 Alabama, 27 461 Alaska, 43 465 Arizona, 53 462 Arkansas, 59 463 Atlas of the States, . 461-508 California, ..... 69 465 Colorado, loi 466 Connecticut, . . . .117 467 Delaware 143 468 District of Columbia, . 149 468 Florida, 165 469 Georgia, 177 470 Idaho, 193 471 Illinois, ...... 201 472 Indiana, 233 473 Indian Territory', , . 247 502 Ic>\\'A, 253 474 Kansas, 263 475 Kentucky 273 476 Louisiana, 293 478 Maine, 311 479 Maryland, 321 468 Massachusetts, .... 339 480 Michigan, 401 483 Minnesota, 419 481 Mississippi, 437 484 ' The Illustrated Heading of each Arms and Motto, the State Capitol, some person prominently connected Missouri, . , Montana, . . Nebraska, . . Nevada, . . New Hampshire, New Jersey, . New Mexico, New York, North Carolina North Dakota, Ohio, . . Oklahoma, Oregon, . . Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolin.a., South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, . . . Utah, . . . Vermont, . . Virginia, . . Washington, . West Virginia, Wisconsin, Wyoming, . . Index, .... State Chapter c THE Pet A'ame WITH its hi ST OR TEXT. PAGE. 443 509 521 531 537 549 567 575 645 655 661 693 697 709 763 781 789 795 811 831 839 849 865 879 885 903 9'3 map. PAGE. 485 486 487 464 506 488 489 491 492 493 494 502 495 497 498 499 500 477 503'' 501 506 505 507 504 482 508 the State TRAIT of ^/1STRIBUTI0N OFPOPU L AT I O N " i;»„*^sf ,'i ,„ ^rdian') TIME + EASTERN (ysih Merfdian) TIME !oi ncil MA msuth lujih " T\ Joplin povlavBluJL-?— I-'" p' J . o Fajetteville UTTLE !!,..( Spring lupine Blutl . °Cam.k-ii^^ Gr Tt-xarkanr ■b> ILLE « .n JaLV:5'c.n) CHATTANOOG* .W\HOl<: ( 1^- ^''|'"o^- f Aberdeen 4.,ffi,AVi ^f%:^X:^( °^°^^^iVJ^^^'"" MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP e^nvOlo 'ff ^ler'klpt*''''?;^ \ ^Macon \p \ HANDY MAP j-fc .,> J/~ |\_Sctoa]> °VcoluAbus p ^-rt OF THE .m~ „__? .-k„».i> ^_ k *^^^.„^ uf^jygQ STATES, ;{oma3viUe V; (—Ifrernaiidin* SHOWINC- Biiori i^/\ ^ifisfeS'sacgiJ^ii ji^^^-^j^^ja^ and Standard Time Divisions. .r, mC \>\^ ^oicavUte^ S. ^ , MADE AT THEIR "»\ ».fMeridii ^1 P L O D 1 S^A :n / BATON^ \ ROUC.E aumohto L Xhar le^ Ne"M' \ .ONTGOMEtP Eufaula '^ Evcvgveen U L F O Fl „M..,iikso.ftha ^'''■^^ M E A' r made at their ''complete aut-printcng works in SCALE OF STATUTE MILKSt rop.26 JliUional ^ AVERAGE 29 TO THE 8Q.MILE 400 i^ ^ t^. ^ _^'"C U B A 3 •—■-^rt'-vfeK »■ Pop.4 .Millitms 300,001 Sq.Milei AVERAGE 13 10 TO 20 TO THE SO-MILE Pop.4.JIillion3| , TO ,0 600,U(KISq.Mile8 AVERAGE 7 TO THE 8Q.MH.E Pop.3-i Million I ^^^^ , aJS.OlnScj. Miles AVERAGE 0.6 TO' THE SQ.MILE KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. WASHINGTON : OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS AND STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA. Descriptive. — The United States (excluding Alaska) occupies a position as to latitude, longitude and area which would correspond to that part of the Old World lying between Cairo and Prague, and between the west of Ireland and the eastern coast of the Black Sea. It faces the Atlantic Ocean with the deep fiords and rocky promontories of New England; the low sandy strands of New Jersey and Virginia, cut deep into by Delaware and Chesapeake Bays ; and the long southern beaches, behind which open still and shallow lagoons. Nearly parallel with the coast, and from 20 to 100 miles inland, the Appalachian Mountains run from Alabama northeastward for 1,300 miles, to Gaspe, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, including the Blue Ridge and Alleghany Mountains of Pennsylvania and the South, the Adirondacks and Catskills and Highlands of New York, and the Taconic, White and Green Mountains of New England. This highland country has a breadth of about 100 miles, and a height of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet, culminating in North Carolina and New Hampshire in peaks above 6,000 feet high. The only practicable break in the range is where the Hudson and Mohawk Rivers have cut their way through, and afford an avenue for a vast movement of freight by water. Beyond the Appalachian Range opens the Cen- tral Valley, 1,250 miles square, and covering 1,500,000 square miles, drained by the Miss- issippi River and the Great Lakes. So slight an elevation intervenes between the Mississippi and the lakes, that a cutting of 100 feet deep would open a practical ship-canal between the two systems of waters, whose outlets are so widely separated. The Great Plains sweep up to the Rocky Mountains, which are 300 miles wide, and extend from Mexico to Canada, with many majestic ranges and peaks, and beautiful park-like valleys. Next west- ward comes the Great Basin of Utah and Nevada, an elevated plateau covering 250,000 square miles, with vast treeless mountains, tracts of desert, and rivers evaporating on their arid plains. To the north lies the Columbian Plateau, largely of barren volcanic soil ; and to the south stretches the Colorado Plateau, with its stupendous canons. Westward rise the majestic Sierra Nevada and the Cascade Range, running from Mexico into British Col- umbia. Beyond the broad valleys of California and Oregon the Coast Range fronts the Pacific Ocean, broken at wide intervals by harbors. The Geographer of the United States divides the Republic into the Atlantic States, including the North Atlantic and South Atlantic groups ; the Central States, including the North Central and South Central Groups ; and the Western, or Cordilleran States, including Montana, Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico, and all lying to the westward of these. Gannett's Bulletin on the Distribution of Population in Accordance with Topographic Features (}ila.y, 1891), sub-divides the Republic into 21 differing areas, as follows: The IVooded Coast Sroa/nps and rice-lands along the South Atlantic and the Gulf have 1 , 809, 000 in- habitants (mainly negroes). The Atlantic Tlain, between the swamps and the fall line, from New York to the Mississippi, low and level, and with much forest-growth, has 8,784,000 people. The Piedmont Region, between the fall line and the mountains, extends from Maine to Alabama, hilly in New England, level in the South, and abound- ing in woodlands, with 7,858,000 people. The broken and forest-clad New- England Hills (in- cluding also the Adirondacks) have 2,290,000. The Appalachian-Mountain System, from New UTAH : GREAT SALT LAKE. Jersey to Alabama, includes the Blue Ridge and THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. n its western valley, with 2,849,000 people. The Cumberland- Alleghany Plateau, an intri- cate and deep-forested mountain-land, extending from New York to Alabama, has 5,749,- 000 inhabitants. The Interior Timbered Region covers southern Ohio and Indiana, western Kentucky and Tennessee, and northern Mississippi, with 11,292,000 inhabitants. The Lake Region, including parts of New York, Pennsylvania and Ohio, and most of Michigan, Wisconsin and Illinois, has 3,57S,OOOpeople. The Ozark-Mountain Region, in Arkansas and Missouri, has 1,041,000 inhabitants. The Alluvial Region of the Mississippi, from Cairo to Louisiana, is marshy and forested, with a richly fertile soil, and a perilous climate.' Most of its 5,000 inhabitants are negroes. The Prairie Region, the granary of America, covers western Indiana, most of Illinois and Iowa, southern Wisconsin and Minnesota, northern Missouri, eastern Dakota, and Kansas and Nebraska, and pushes down into Texas. It is a level country, originally rich in grasses, but devoid of timber. Here dwell 13,048,000 people. The Great Plains, treeless, billowy, too scant in rain for farming without irrigation, extend from the prairies (the 99th meridian) to the Rocky Mountains, and have 737,000 inhabitants. The North Rocky Alotentains, from Canada southeast to central Wyoming, have 153,000. The South Rocky Mountains, from central Wyoming to Texas, have 247,000. These two sections of the continental range are separated by a broad plateau of lOO miles in Wyoming. The Plateau Region of the Colorado Valley, above the Rio Virgen, is a series of gigantic level steps, descending from 12,000 feet high to 2,000 feet, fronted by cliffs, and often cut into skeletons by profound canons. This sterile land, with its light and spasmodic rains, and its appalling phenomena of scenery, is the most thinly settled part of the Republic, having less than one inhabitant to the square mile (110,000). The Basin Region of Nevada and parts of Utah, California and Oregon, without outlet to the sea, and poor in rain, has 403,000. The Columbian Mesas cover the basaltic plains of the Snake and Upper Columbia, in Idaho, Oregon and Washington, and have 219,000 people. The Sierra Nevada has 146,000 ; The Pacific Valley, from Puget Sound to Tulare Lake, 435,000; The Cascade Range, deep forested around its extinct volcanoes, 179,000; and The Coast Ranges, Slo,ooo. The country between the Prairie Region and the Pacific Valley will never be thickly settled, on account of its lack of water, which seriously impedes farming pursuits. The Pacific States can happily accommodate and sustain many times their present population ; and a large immigration has lately poured into Southern California and the Puget-Sound country. 14 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Climate is colder than that of similar European latitudes, New York being ii°7' colder than Naples, and Norfolk 4°3' colder than San Fernando, Spain. The North-Atlantic and North-Pacific States have nearly the same temperatures, but the Southern States are warmer than the same latitudes along the Pacific, owing to the Gulf of Mexico. The pre- vailing winds are westerly. The largest rainfall is along the Atlantic and the Gulf. California is nearly rainless throughout the summer. The coldest locality (outside of Alaska) is along the Rocky Mountains, in Montana ; the hottest region is in the Colorado and Gila Valleys. The mean temperature of New York corresponds with that of Paris, but its winters are Ice- landic, and its summers Italian. Rains are equally distributed east of the hundredth meridian, coming largely from evaporation in the tropics, blown northward from the Gulf of Mexico, following the Appalachian Mountains, or spreading fan-like up the Mississippi Valley. The Eastern Gulf coast gets the heaviest rains, averaging above 60 inches of moisture a year, while Savannah, Charleston and Norfolk have less than 50 inches, and Philadelphia, New York and Boston have 43 inches each. Vast areas of New Mexico and Arizona, Utah and Wyoming, Montana and Oregon receive less than ten inches of moisture yearly. Agriculture is favored by the great diversity of soils and climates. The Federal statis- tics (see page 939) show that the farm-products exceed $3,800,000,000 a year. There _„ _ „ are 4,000,000 farms, cover- ing 536,000,000 acres, and valued, with their live-stock and implements, at $12,- 000,000,000. Three fourths are cultivated by their owners. Not quite half of the wage-earners are en- gaged in farming. The yearly cost of fence-lniild- ing is $80,000,000; and of fertilizers, $30,000,000. The grass crop is the greatest of American products, for besides the vast amounts consumed in grazing, the hay cut on farms reaches a value of $400,000,000 a year. The live-stock numbers i65,ooo,ooohead, valued at $2,400,000,000. They include nearly 50,000,000 each of sheep and hogs, 37,000,000 oxen and cattle, 16,000,000 milch cows, and 16,000,000 horses and mules. The yearly dairy-products reach 600,000,000 gallons of milk, 800,000,000 pounds of butter, and 30,000,000 pounds of cheese. The poultry product exceeds $75,000,- 000 yearly, with 125,000,000 fowls, giving yearly 6,000,000,000 eggs. The crops of the United States in 1891 amounted to 44,444,000 tons of hay, 8,700,000 bales of cotton, 2,- 075,000,000 bushels of corn, 588,000,000 of wheat, 758,000,000 of oats, 34,000,000 of rye, 80,000,000 of barley, 14,500,000 of buckwheat, and 225,000,000 of. potatoes ; and 520,000,000 pounds of tobacco. Minerals arc produced to the amount of over $650,000,000 a year (see page 939), nearly one third of which is of coal, largely from Pennsylvania. The same State also produces 21,000,000 barrels of the petroleum ; and Ohio gives 12,000,000 barrels, the whole product being 45,000,000 barrels. Natural gas most abounds in Pennsylvania, Ohio and Indiana. The American product of iron and steel is now the largest in the world, and exceeds $150,000,000 yearly. The Cordilleran region gives yearly about 55,000,000 ounces of silver, of a coin value of $70,000,000; and 1,600,000 ounces of gold, worth $33,000,000. Nearly half of the $34,000,000 worth of copper produced yearly comes from Montana, with large quantities from Michigan and Arizona. The marble of Vermont, Tennessee, and Georgia, the granite of New England and other sections, the sandstone of Ohio and Connecticut, and other stones show a value of $54,000,000 a year ; and the lime is worth $28,000,000. Double this amount is paid for brick and tile. THRESHING BY STEAM IN A PRAIRIE WHEAT-FIELD. I.WASHINGTON; 2. J. ADAMS ; 8. JEFFERSON ; 4. MADISON ; 6. MONROE ; 6. J. Q, ADAMS ; 7. JACKSON ; 8, VAN BUREN ; 9. W. H. HARRISON ; 10. TYLER ; 11. POLK; 12. TAYLOR ; 13. FILLMORE; 14. PIERCE ; 15. BUCHANAN ; ' 16. LINCOLN ; 17. JOHNSON; 18. grant; 19. HAYES; 20. GARFIELD; 21. ARTHUR; 22, CLEVELAND; 23. B.HARRISON. 1 6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Government of the United States is in effect a republic of republics. It is more than a league of States, because it exercises direct authority over every citizen. Yet the States existed before the Republic came into being, and hold an undelegated authority over their people. They are subordinate to the Federal Government, yet they could survive without it, as independent republics. Bryce likens the United States to a group of ancient chapels, over which the vast cathedral of the Union has been built. Their identity remains; and if the greater structure decayed, they might still exist, as separate and independent edi- fices. The Federal Government administrates upon war and peace and foreign relations, the army and navy, the postal service, foreign and domestic commerce. Federal courts of justice, currency, copyrights and patents, taxation for general purposes, and the protection of citizens against unjust State legislation. All other and local administrations inhere in the several States, where the local needs are best known. The President and Congress are subject to the Constitution, and the only sovereign power is the will of the people, acting under the Constitution, and with the capacity of amending that document. The President and Vice- President are chosen by electors (numbering 442 in 1S93), the people of each State choosing by vote as many as the State has members of both houses of Congress. The electors meet in their several States, and vote for the candidate whom they have been elected to choose. So that the electoral vote of each State is solid for one candidate, and the popular vote for the minority candidate in that Commonwealth is lost. Thus it may happen (and has hap- pened at least twice) that the Presidential candidate in whose name the largest number of votes has been cast by the people, is not elected. If no one gets a majority of the total number of electoral votes, the House of Representatives must choose the President, from the three candidates receiving the highest number of electoral votes. In this case (which has happened twice) the Representatives vote by States, each State delegation being a unit. Thus the 23 smaller States could elect a President against the 21 larger States. There is an unwritten law, that will probably never be disregarded, that no chief magistrate shall have a third term. The President is commander-in-chief of the army and navy, but never offi- cially enters the field of war. He appoints the chief executive officers of the Government. The Cabinet includes the Secretaries of State, the Treasury, War, the Navy, the Interior, and Agriculture, the Postmaster-General and the Attorney-General. The Secretaries of State, the Treasury, and War, and the Attorney-General composed W'ashington's cabinet. The Congress of the United States is composed of the Senate and the House of Repre- sentatives. The Senate includes 88 senators, two being elected by the legislature of each State, for a term of six years. It is the connecting link between the State and Federal Governments, being chosen by the States (not by the people) to form part of the National Government. The House of Representatives includes 356 members, elected every two years by a vote of the people. The relative importance of the State governments has decreased within a half-century, while the Nation has grown majestically superior. The Federal judicial tribunals include the Supreme Court, of nine justices, sitting at Washington; the nine Circuit Courts; the 55 District Courts; and the Court of Claims (with five justices). They deal with cases in law and equity arising under the Federal Constitution, laws or treaties ; cases affecting ambassadors and consuls ; cases of maritime jurisdiction ; controversies to which the United States is a party ; and controversies be- tween States, or citizens of different States, or a State and citizens of another State, or be- tween States (or their citizens) and foreign states or subjects. The domain of the United States now includes 44 States, four Territories (New Mexico, Arizona, Utah and Oklahoma), the District of Columbia, Alaska, and the Indian Territory. The 13 original States were New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. Maine was taken from Massachusetts ; Vermont, from New Hampshire and New York ; and West Virginia, from Virginia. The remaining 28 States have risen from later- won domains of the Republic. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 17 The United-States Army consists of 27,390 men, in ten regiments of cavalry, five of artillery, and 25 of infantry. There are 2,225 negro soldiers, forming the Ninth and Tenth Cavalry and the 24th and 25th Infantry regiments ; and 1,485 Indian soldiers, to be enrolled into regiments. There are 104 garrisoned posts (not including arsenals), and 45 ungarri- soned forts. The organized militia numbers 112,000 men, and the unorganized militia in- cludes 8,600,000 men available for military duty. The Soldiers' Home is near Washington. The United-States Military Academy at West Point (New York) has graduated 3,500 officers for the army. Post-graduate schools for officers are in operation at Fort Monroe, Virginia (for artillery), and at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas (for cavalry and infantry). Up to the year 1861, West Point had graduated 1,966 officers, of whom 1,249 were then living. Three fourths of these fought in the armies of the Union, including 162 from the Southern States (nearly half of the Southern graduates). During the war, one half of the West- Point graduates were wounded, and one fifth were killed in battle (see page 599)- The United-States Navy includes 8,000 men, and 72 vessels of the old fleet (of which only 30 are in commission), and 44 vessels of the new navy, twenty of them still under construction. These include battle-ships, harbor-defence rams, torpedo-boats, and armored and unarmored cruisers, most of them of steel, and with heavy modern armaments. The Marine Corps numbers 2,100 men. There are ten navy- yards, and four naval stations. The United-States Naval Academy, at Annapolis (Maryland), fits picked young men, by a six years' course of study, to be officers in the Line and Engineer Corps of the Navy, and in the Marine Corps (see page 332). The favorite National song with the army is The Star- Spanglfd Banner, written in 1814, by Francis Scott Key, of Georgetown, D. C, at that time a prisoner on the British fleet which was unsuccessfully attacking P'ort McIIenry, near Baltimore. The popular National song, America, was written at Andover, Mass., fli 1832, by Samuel Francis Smith, a native of Boston, a classmate of Oliver Wendell Holmes at Harvard, and now for many years past a resident of Newton, Mass., being by profession a clergyman. The JoJm Bro7uii song, so famous in the Union armies, originated at Fort War- ren, in Boston Harbor, in 1861, among the Massachusetts volunteers. The one great pOem of the war period was The Battle Hymn of the Republic, written to the John Broivn tune, by Julia Ward Howe, of Massachusetts. Of the older patriotic songs, Cohimlna, the Gem of the Ocean, and Hail Columbia both emanated from Philadelphia, the one in 1843, and the other in 179S. Pensions are paid to 680,000 persons, including 71,000 in New England, 138,000 in the Middle States, 87,000 in the South, and 384,000 in the West. The amount exceeds $120,000,000 a year. The list contains a score of widows of Revolutionary soldiers. The United-States Revenue-Cutter Service has 16 armed cruisers on the Atlantic and the Gulf, four on the Pacific, and four on the Great Lakes, besides'the harbor-steamers, and the school-ship at New Bedford. It costs $1,000,000 a year ; and enforces the cus- toms and neutrality laws, assists vessels in distress, and discharges many other duties. The Exports amount to $1,050,000,000 a year, three fourths of which is in agricultural products. Nearly two thirds goes to Great Britain and her colonies. The imports reach $900,000,000 yearly, one third of which comes from Great Britain and her colonies. Before the civil war, two thirds of the imports and exports were carried in American vessels ; now, less than one eighth is thus carried. Commerce employs 4,700,000 tons of American ship- ping, valued at $180,000,000. Three fourths of this is in the coastwise trade. The tonnage exceeds that of every other nation except one. NEW-YORK CITY : GRANT MONUMENT, BEING ERECTED IN RIVERSIDE PARK. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. UNITED-STATES MILITARY ACADEMY, WEST POINT, NEW YORK. THE UNITED STA7ES OF AMERICA. ^9 '.^■V'^.i^^':^-*^^*^* Z/f I/I COiOA/ll, Calof/tL. jfilantrY-cavplry.-Artillerv. MILITARY SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES. SiRGUNT. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITEp STATES. "^'^U^ RAILWAY MAIL SERVICE. The Post-Office De- partment costs $72,- 000,000 a year, and has a revenue of $66,000,000. Transporting mails costs $37,000,000, and post- masters' salaries, $15,- 000,000. This depart- ment has introduced many remarkable im- provements, including the interesting system of the railway mail service, and sea post-offices. The United-States Light-House Board controls 1,167 light houses and lighted beacons, 28 light-ships, 280 fog-sig- iraLRioR OFAPosTAt'^'*' nals, 1,368 river-lights, 390 day beacons, 138 whistlmg or bell buoys and 4,200 buoys. There are 34 small vessels and 3,200 men employed. Finances. — The Government has received since its foundation (excluding loans) about $12,000,000,000. Of this amount, nearly $7,000,000,000 were from cus- toms, and $4,000,000,000 from internal revenue. The expenditures have been $12,500,000,000; for war, 1,700,000,000; the navy, $1,200,000,000; pensions, 51,400,000,000; interest, $2,700,000,000; and for other purposes, $2,500,000,000. The several States and Territories owe $223,000,000, net; the counties, $142,000,000, net ; and the 779 chief municipalities, $470,000,000, net. The debts are less than in 1880. The money now in circulation amounts to $1,500,000,000, one fourth in gold coin, nearly as much in United-States notes, one eighth each in National-bank notes and gold certificates, and one fourth in silver certificates and silver. The United-States Mint is at Philadelphia. The amount of clearances in the New- York Clcaring-House reaches nearly $34,000,000,000 a year, which exceeds the clearances of any other city in the world. There are 3,577 National banks, with a capital of $660, 000, 000, and a sur- plus of $223,000,000. The 921 savings-banks have $1,525,000,000 in deposits, and a surplus of $150,000,000. The Life -Saving Service has 178 stations on the Atlantic coast, 48 on the Great Lakes, and II on the Pacific coast. It costs $1,000,000 a year, and in 189 1 saved $7,000,000 in property, and succored 551 ship- wrecked persons (only 42 having been lost). united-states life-savinq service. -/^f/^^'" THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. The Signal Ser- vice of the army was in -Vi 1870 partly formed into \, a meteorological bureau, rf to study the scientific law O of storms, and predict the advance of storm- fields. It has 300 men in service, all over the Union, with headquarters at Washington. The accuracy of weather predictions increases yearly ; and the department is of great benefit to commerce and agriculture alike. Education in the public schools costs $140, 000,- 000 a year (three fourths for salaries), the number of enrolled students exceeding 12,000,000, with an average daily attendance of 8,000,000. There are over 400 accredited universities and colleges, with 8,000 instructors and 46,000 students, property valued at $147,000,000, and libraries containing 4,200,000 volumes. The first American college was Harvard, founded in 1638, and still the most famous in the Republic. The College of William and Mary arose in Virginia in 1693 ; Yale College, in Connecticut, in 1700 ; and the College of New Jersey, in 1746. Newspapers number 19,400; 1,300 in New England, 3,700 in the Middle States, 10,100 in the West, 3,300 in the South, and 1,000 on the Pacific Coast. Their total yearly issues exceed 4,000,000,000. More than 4,000 books are published each year. Religion numbers in the United States 150,000 churches, 100,000 clergymen, and 22,000,000 com- municants. The chief denominations are the Metho- dists, with 5,000,000 communicants; the Baptists, 4,300,000 ; the Presbyterians, 1,200,000; the Luthe- rans, 1,000,000; and the Congregationalists and Episcopalians, about 500,000 each. The Catholic population exceeds 8,000,000; and there are 250,000 Jews. The Sunday schools number 120,000, with 1,200,000 teachers and 9,000,000 pupils. The 1,300 Young Men's Christian Associations have 200,000 members, l,loo general secretaries, $10,000,000 ni property, and yearly outlays of nearly $2,000,000. Thereare 225 Young Women's Christian Associations, 6,000 societies of the Epworth League, 150,000 King's Daughters, and 10,000 Young People's So- cieties of Christian Endeavor, with 600,- 000 members. The Freemasons have 650,000 American members; the Odd Fellows, 650,000; the Knights of Pythias, 264,000; and the Royal Arcanum, 120,000. There are 400,000 comrades of the Grand Army of the Republic. WASHINGTON AL OFFICE AND FLAGS A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. UNITED-STATES NAVAL ACADEMY, ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Cfiarlf^dnn 'Maine fVIrf-r Y/^^a.^ d^iJ^tn^ff Otn'f^tt/ NAVAL SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES. A'/VJ rrtwi.i\rti 24 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. HT S\\\P AMERICAN LIGHT-HOUSE SERVICE. Immigrants to the num- ber of 16,000,000 have come to the United States. The European immigrants landing 5-iT at United-States ports during the last ten years numbered 5,246,613, besides, probably 1,500,000 entering by way of L I iciuiJ Canada. They have been made up of one third Germans, one fourth Britons and Irish, one tenth each of Scandinavians and Canadians, and from four to six per cent, each of Austro-IIungarians, Russians and Italians. Minnesota and Dakota have foreign -born populations equal to one half the natives. Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, Michigan, Wiscon- sin and Nebraska have foreign-born people equal to more than one fourth of the natives. The South has attracted but little immigration, Virginia, the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi having less than one per cent, of foreign-born inhabitants. Texas has eight per cent. The immigration of Chinamen, other than officials, students, merchants and tourists, is stringently forbidden by Con- gress. An act of Congress approved in 18S2 forbids the landing on American shores of foreign-born convicts, luna- tics, idiots, or persons liable to become a pul)lic charge ; and thousands of immigrants have been sent back to Europe under this law. An act passed in 1885 forbids the landing of aliens under contract to labor here. The Public Lands of the United States in- cluded all the vast areas outside the thirteen original States (except Kentucky, Tennessee and Texas). The original area of the Union, and the Northwestern Territory, included about 850,000 square miles, to which 1,850,000 were added by the Louisiana Pur- chase and the Mexican cessions, 60,000 by the pur- chase of Florida from Spain, 50,000 by the Gadsden Purchase from Mexico, and 266,000 by the annexa- tion of Texas. Alaska was bought from Russia in 1S67, for $7,200,000, but it may not be considered as a field for colonization. Exclusive of Alaska, the pub- lic lands amounted to 2,837,000 square miles. Over a billion acres, including nearly all that is of value, has been sold for cash, or granted for schools, military bounties, swamp-land and railroad grants, and homesteads. Most of the available land has passed into the hands of individuals and corporations. The Centre of Population in the United States in 1790 was 23 miles east of Baltimore; in 1800, 18 miles west of Baltimore; in 1810, 40 miles northwest by west of Washington; in 1820, 16 miles north of Wood- stock (Va.); in 1830, 19 miles southwest of Moorefield NEW YORK : THE CUSTOM HOUSE. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 25 (W. Va.); in 1840, 16 miles south of Clarksburg (W. Va.); in 1850, 23 miles southeast of Parkersburg (W. Va.); in i860, 20 miles south of Chillieothe (Ohio), in 1S70, 48 miles east by north of Cincinnati ; \\\ 1880, eight miles west by soutii of Cincinniti , and in 189Q, 20 miles east of Colum- _; ^^ . bus, Indiana, • - ^ ^ '^''^ fA near the vil- lage of West- port. The cen- tre of popula- t i o n o f t h e United States has thus trav- eled westward I'- THE UNITED-STATES BARGE-OFTICE. AHBOrl ; tLLia Ibl-ANU AND THc .NtW IMMIGRATION BUILDING. from the Eastern Shore of ;^4^'. Maryland, where it stood in "''^-— Washington's administra- tion, to Decatur County, in southern Indiana. During all this century of " West- \,.^__ ward the Star of Empire ;Ste-_2zr takes its Way," the centres ^ '- of population have kept within 25 miles of the 39th parallel of latitude, moving toward the Pacific Coast 505 miles, almost on a direct line. The annexation of Florida and the migration into the Southwest pulled the centre below 39° in 1830 ; and in 1890 it moved well north of the parallel, by reason of the development of the Northwest and the State of Washington, and the increase of population in New England. The Railroads of the United States have cost $9,000,000,000, and employ 1,000,000 persons. There are over 200,000 miles of track, with 30,000 locomotives, 27,000 passen- ger-cars, and over 1,100,000 other cars. Their capital stock is $4,640,000,000, with funded debts of $4,800,000,000, yearly traffic earnings of $1,000,000,000 (two thirds from freight), net earnings of $318,000,000, and dividends of $84,000,000 yearly. The Ameri- can telegraph lines extend for 250,000 miles, with 800,000 miles of wire, 26,000 offices, and 42,000 employees, mostly pertaining to the Western Union system. Manufactories in i860 numbered 140,000, using $1,000,000,000 in materials, with a yearly product of .$1,900,000,000. In 1880, they numbered 254,000, using $3,400,000,000 in materials, and producing $5,370,000,000 yearly. The annual product of flouring and grist mills was $500,000,000; of slaughter-houses, $300,000,- ooo; of iron and steel works, $300,000,000 ; of woolens, $270,000,000; of lumber, $230,000,000; of foundry pio- ducts, cotton goods, men's clothing, and boots and shoes, about $200,000,000 each. Two thirds of the manufactures are in New England and New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. The Cities are growing much faster than the country. In 1 790 there were only six cities with more than 8,000 inhabitants. By 1840, t^iese had increased to 44; in 1880, to 2S6 ; ^^ and in 1890, to 443. In 1790 there was no city with as many as 100,000 inhabitants; but in 1890 there were 28. Pennsylvania united states mint, at Philadelphia. 26 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The progress of the United States has been rich in benefits to the world, and has been marlced by the development of many illustrious men. In invention, she has produced Morse and Fulton, Edison and Whitney ; in science, Silliman and Dana ; in military science. Grant and Sherman and Sheridan ; in statesmanship, Washington and Jefferson, Franklin and Lincoln ; and in oratory, Webster and Clay. To the romancers of the world she has given Hawthorne and Cooper and Howells ; to the poets, Longfellow and Whittier, Holmes and Bryant ; to the historians, the Bancrofts and Parkman, Prescott and Motley ; to the essayists, Lowell and Emerson ; and to the masters of literary style, Washington Irving. The Union of States still nobly advances, marvellous in her potentialities, and at peace with all the world. And within her 1 — . . own borders, the sometime forgetful States have nobly -.=s=»^ returned to the doctrine of their old-time Revolution- ^^ ^ '^^. ''^'^ hero, Patrick Henry, who said: "The distinc- .^^^t v ' '^^ i\on^ between Virginians, Pennsylvanians, New- ^^^^^ ^ ^ — ^ Yorkers, and New-Eng- landers, are no more. I ^^^f k \' ~^~^ -"^^^^-^^ am not a Virginian, but an American." And now, ^^»^la^\^ t '^ ^ --^ more than ever, there is full truth in Jefferson's ^^^^ ll '^^ ^ words: "The cement of the Union is in the heart- ^^^%r^i/ blood of every American." In its perilous phases sec- ^^P|i^v ^^ ^ tionalism has passed away, and remains now mainly as ^^*^| rt^Kt^^ ^ proper local and home- stead pride. Gen. Sherman ^^^iC^Mm^^MM^ wrote: "Every American should be proud of his ^^^^^^^Hl^^ whole country, rather than of a part. Therefore, I ^^^^^^*°^ l^gpg g^j^j pj-^y that the new men of the South will culti- ' vate a pride in the whole United States of America, instead of the mere State of birth. How much more sublime the thought that you live at the root of a tree whose branches reach the beautiful fields of western New York and the majestic canons of the Yellowstone, and that with every draught of water you take the outflow of the pure lakes of Minnesota and drippings of the dews of the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains." Millions of Americans are growing into this broader Nationalism, the spirit of Philip Nolan, as he said to the young naval ensign : "Remember, boy, that behind all these men you have to do with, behind officers and Government and people, even, there is the Country Herself, your Country, and that you belong to Her as you belong to your own mother." Acknowledgment. — In his ej^ort to make this Handbook of the United States a portrayal of the chief traits of the Great Repiddic, historic, scenic, economic, and industrial, the author has been put tinder many obligations. It was not enough that the description of each State shoidd be illustrated by scores of pictures and explained by a netv map engraved for the purpose. Multitudes of facts, accounts, descriptions and statistics had to be collected from all sources. In the two years devoted to this search the author has received the kindest assistance from the public officials, both State and N'ational. They have not only furnished hundreds of volumes of the latest official reports, but fiave in many instances written out special mono- graphs to be used in t/ie Handbook. Citizens prominent in public life and in literature, -without even tfie sligfit claim upon their attention that an official position might give, have revised the manuscript and en7-iched it by tJieir suggestions. To statesmen like Sherman of Ohio, Dolph of Oregon, Stewart of Nevada, Hampton of South Carolina, Bayard of Dela- ware, Miller of Iowa, Ligalls of Kansas, Prince of New Mexico, Fitzhugh Lee of Virginia, — and to men of letters, like A ngell of Michigan, Cable of Louisiana, Petroff of Alaska, MitcJiell of Cojtnecticut, Thwaites of Wisconsin, Goodell of J\Iassachusetts, and Bancroft of California, no thanks adequate to tfie services tliey Iiave rendered ca.n be given. While to tlie author and the publisher belongs the responsibility for tlie sJiort-comings of the book, a great part of its merits is due to the generous assistance of these and many otiier distinguisfied Americans. Settled at Mobile Bay. Settled in 1702 Founded by ... . Frenchmen. Admitted to the U. S., . . 1819 Population in i860, . . . 964,201 In 1870 996,992 IEN\J\^' In I In 1890 (U. S. Censu White, Colored, Voting Population, . . Vote for Harrison (1888), Vote for Cleveland (1888) Net Public Debt, Area (square miles). 1,262,505 1,513.017 830,796 1.431 259,884 57.197 i), 117,320 $11,992,619 . . 52,250 At the dawn of her his- tory, Alabama contained four tribes of aborigines, the civilized and hospital Cher- okees, in the northeast, in a region that they always called Chiaha ; the warlike and heroic Chickasaws, in the northwest, along the Tennessee, the Tombigbee and the Upper Yazoo ; the friendly Choctaws, in the west and southwest ; and the Mus- cogees (or Creeks), called by Bancroft "the most powerful nation north of the Gulf of Mexico," west of the Ocmulgee. The first historical mention of Alabama deals with the marches of Hernando De Soto, the Spanish cavalier, with 620 knights and priests, crossbowmen and arquebusiers of Spain, who landed at Tampa Bay, crossed Georgia, and entered Alabama in July, 1540 (80 years before the Pil- grims arrived at Plymouth). The army visited Coosa, Tallasee, and other Indian towns, in search of a land of gold; and then marched by Piachee to Maubila (whence comes the name of Mobile). Here they were fiercely at- tacked, and during a long day's battle in and around the burning town, the Spaniards defeated the natives, losing 168 men, and slaying 2,500. Thence the European army moved through the lonely land of Pafallaya, and up the Tombigbee Valley into Mississippi, fighting many a bloody battle, and enduring and causing frightful sufferings. One hundred and sixty-two years later, the Sieur de Bienville, "the Father of Alabama," transferred his French colony from Biloxi to Dog River, on Mobile Bay, and erected Fort St. Louis de la Mobile. In 1711, he moved to the present site of Mobile. A few years later, English traders from Georgia built a stockade at Ocfuskee ; and Gen. Oglethorpe made a treaty with the Muscogees, at Coweta. After the cession of the trans-Alleghany country to Great Britain, at the peace of 1763, the part of Alabama south of Selma and Montgomery was included in the district of West Florida, and the unsettled country to the U. S. Representatives (1893), 9 Militia (Disciplined), . . . 2,954 Counties 67 Post-offices 2,028 Railroads (miles) 3.422 Manufactures (yearly in 1880), $13,566,000 Operatives, 10,019 Yearly Wages, . . . $2,500,000 Farm Land (in acres), . 18,855,000 Farm-Land Values, . $79,000,000 Farm Products (yearly) $57,000,000 School Children, enrolled, 259,432 Newspapers 180 Latitude, .... 3o''i3' to 35° N. Longitude, . . 7°5i' to io°38' W, Temperature 5° to 107" Mean Temperature (Mobile), 66" TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- ULATIONS. (Census of 1890.) Mobile 3I1O76 Birmingham, 26,178 Montgomery, 21,883 Anniston, 9.998 Huntsville 7,995 Selma, 7,622 Florence, 6,012 Bessemer, 4,544 Eufaula 4.394 Tuskaloosa, 4.215 28 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ft' MONTGOMERY : SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. north belonged to the district of Illinois. Montgomery lay in Florida, and Wetumpka in Illinois. The people here were so few, and so remote from the Atlantic settlements, that they did not unite with the Thirteen Colonies in their conflict with England. Envoys and agitators sent from the United States were seized and imprisoned in the stone keep of Fort Charlotte. When Spain declared war against the mother-country, Galvez, the governor of Louisiana, with 2,000 soldiers, besieged and captured Mobile, even then a French town. The Spaniards held the country until 1798, as a part of Florida. Georgia also claimed nearly all of Alabama and Mississippi, under her royal charter of 1665, and in 179S and 1 802 ceded them to the United States for $1,250,000. About 1790, American pioneers began to settle in the northern valleys. In 1798, Congress formed Mississippi and Alabama, from 31° to 32° 28', and between the Mississippi River and the Chattahoochee, into the Mississippi Territory ; and four years later, the Territorial boundary was carried north to the Tennessee line. The Indians ceded vast domains to the incoming Ameri- cans, by the treaties of 1805 ; but Tecumseh aroused the Creeks to war, and in 1813 they destroyed Fort Mimms, with its 500 inmates. Gen. Coffee retaliated by killing 186 Indians in battle at Tallaseehatchee ; Andrew Jackson won the fight atTalladega ; Gen. White destroyed Hillabee ; and after many other engagements, Jackson slew 600 Creeks at the Horse-Shoe Bend, losing 210 men himself. In the 30 engagements of the Creek war 4,000 Indians were killed. The Spanish power at Mobile was broken by Gen. Wilkinson's army from New Orleans, in 1813 ; and a British attack on Fort Bowyer, at Mobile Toint, met a disastrous repulse, fol- lowed by Jackson's capture of Pensacola. In 1817, Congress organized the Territory of Alabama, with its present boundaries, and St. Stephens as the capital. Two years later, Alabama became a State, then having about 127,000 inhabitants, besides the Indians. Cahaba became the capital in 1820 ; Tuskaloosa, in 1826 ; and Montgomery in 1847. After frequent Indian wars, mainly with the Creeks, the tribes were removed to the Indian Territory, the Choctaws in 1830, the Chickasaws in 1834, the Cherokees in 1836, and the Creeks in 1837. The population in i860 included 526,271 whites, 435,080 negro slaves (owned by 30,000 persons) and 2,690 free negroes. Alabama was then the fifth State in the value of its agri- cultural products, and the seventh in wealth. , ^ ^ Its valuation sunk from $792,000,000 in i860 to $202,000,000 in 1865 (partly due to the emancipation of the slaves). Late in i860 the National forts at Mobile were occupied by Alabama troops ; and in January, 186 1, by a. vote of 61 to 39, the State seceded from the Union. In the mourn- ful conflict which followed, she sent into the field 122,000 soldiers (in 69 regiments of infantry, 12 of cavalry, and 27 batteries), one fourth of vhom died in the Confederate service. The northern counties long rcmanied devoted to the Republic, and desired to erect themselves mto a new State. The chief local events were Forrest's capture of Streight's 1,700 Union cavalry, in Cherokee County ; Rousseau's raid through the southern counties ; and Farragut's attack on Mobile, resulting in the capture of Forts Morgan and Gaines, and followed by the reduction of Spanish Fort, the storming of Blakely, and the occupation of Mobile (in April, 1865), by Gen. Canby's Union army of 45,000 men after much fighting. At the same time. Gen. Wilson, with 9,000 mounted troops from the north, stormed Selma, destroying the Arsenal and Navy Yard, and occupied Montgomery. Several thousand white Alabamians served bravely in the National armies. Mi-SCLE SHOALS AND CANAi-S THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 29 THE ALABAMA RIVER. The re-establishment of the National power was followed by unhappy years of carpet-bag adminis- tration, when the treasury of the State suffered from venal legislation, and her standard eight per cent, bonds fell to 20 cents on the dollar. Emerging at last from this cloud, Alabama has re- sumed her place as one of the most conservative of the Southern States, with a strong and capable "white man's government." Within ten years a wonderful and unexampled development of mineral wealth has gone forward, in the northern part of the State, which is already entering into competition with Pennsylvania as a producer of coal and iron. The output of pig-iron alone mounted from 449,492 tons in 1888 to 791,425 in 1889, and is still increasing, and building up new cities. The Name of Alabama comes from its chief river, the word being of Indian origin and unknown meaning. There is a poetic legend that an exiled Indian tribe reached the great river, and its chief struck his spear into the shore exclaiming, Alabama! — that is to say : "Here we rest." Fragments of the Alabama tribe now live in Texas and Louisiana. Alabama is sometimes called The Cotton-Planta- tion State. The Arms of Alabama bear an eagle, with raised wings, alighting upon the National shield, and bear- ing three arrows in his left talon. He holds in his beak a floating streamer, inscribed with the words HERE WE REST. This nobly patriotic device was adopted in 1868, to replace the older seal, a rude out- line map of Alabama fastened to a tree. The Governors of Alabama have been William WyattBibb, 1817-20 ; Thomas Bibb, 1820-21 ; Israel Pickens, 1821-25; John Murphy, 1825-9; Samuel B. Moore, 1829-31; John Gayle, 1831-5 ; Clement Comer Clay, 1835-7; Hugh McVay, 1837; Arthur Pendleton Bagby, 1 837-41 ; Benjamin Fitzpatrick, 1841-5 ; Reuben Chap- man, 1847-9; Henry Watkins Collier, 1849-53; John Anthony Winston, 1853-7; Andrew Barry Moore, 1857-61 ; John Gill Shorter, 1861-3 ; Thomas Hill Watts, 1S63-5 ; Lewis Eliphalet Parsons, 1865 (provisional) ; Robert Miller Patton, 1865-8 ; William Henry Smith, 1868-70; Robert Burns Lindsay, 1870; David C. Lewis, 1872-4; (jeorge Smith Houston, 1874-8 ; Rufus W. Cobb, 1878-82 ; Edward Asbury O'Neal, 1 882-6 ; Thomas Seay, 1886-90 ; and Thos. G. Jones, 1890-2. Descriptive. — Alabama is from 150 to 202 miles wide, between Georgia and Missis- sippi, and from 278 to 336 miles long, between Tennessee and Florida and the Gulf of Mexico. It is larger than New York or Pennsylvania, Virginia or England. The northeast contains the declining Alleghany ridges, melting away toward the south into a broken hill-country, and then into extensive plains, which for 60 miles inland are almost on the sea-level. There are four great divisions of the State — the cereal, mineral, cotton, and timber regions. The beauti- ful Tennessee Valley, in the temperate and health- ful north, is a rich agricultural country, rising toward the east into the long blue highlands of the Raccoon and Lookout ranges. The Alabama section of the valley is 200 miles long and 20 MOBILE : THE SHELL ROAD. 3° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MOBILE : GOVERNMENT STREET. miles wide, covering eight counties, with 180,000 inhabitants. This is the Cereal Belt, its fertile red lands producing grains and grasses, cotton and fruits, with noble mountain-walls sheltering it alike from the icy northern winds and the intense heats of the southern plains, and traversed by rich lateral valleys, abounding in farms. The Mountain and Mineral Region covers the northeast, and the Alleghany Mountains, which open out across all north-central Alabama, with 5,500 square miles of rich coal-meas- ures, and vast deposits of iron-ore and limestone. It in- cludes 28 counties, with 40dfooo inhabitants. The Agricultural Region, 70 miles wide, clear across the State, comes next, between 33° and 31° 40', in the rot- ten limestone formation, scarce of water, but on the west occupied by fertile bald prairie and wooded prairie. This is the celebrated Black Belt, or Cane-Brake Region, where the negroes greatly predominate in numbers, raising vast quantities of cotton from the richest of lands. It in- cludes 17 counties, with over 500,000 inhabitants. The Piney-Woods Region extends from the Black Belt to the Gulf, more than a hundred miles wide, abounding in long-leaf and yel- low pine, and low and miasmatic along the rivers and coast, but elsewhere undulating, with a sandy soil. The summers are long, but tempered by the Gulf breezes, and vary between 73° and 94°. Here grow the magnolia and the sweet-bay, gigantic water-oaks and live-oaks, black gums and venerable cypresses. Turpentine and rosin are valued pro- ducts ; and vast quantities of lumber are shipped thence. The land is very cheap ; and the exporting of naval stores is facilitated by the navigable bays and entrances along the coast. The Gulf coast of Alabama, only 50 miles long, is broken by Mobile Bay, entering the land for 30 miles, and navigable by an artificial channel for vessels drawing 19 feet of water. The deep and broad Mobile River, 50 miles long, enters the bay at its head. It is formed by the powerful Alabama (312 miles long, and from 600 to 800 feet broad), and the Tombigbee (navigable for 393 miles, to Fulton). The Black Warrior (300 miles long) is navigable from Tuskaloosa to its union with the Tombigbee, at Demopolis. The Coosa is 355 miles long, navigable for its lower ten miles, up to the falls at Wetumpka, above which there are 145 miles of rapids and rough waters. At Greensport begins another navigable reach, 180 miles long, to Rome, furnishing trade for six steamboats. The Talla- poosa is a picturesque stream 225 miles long, without commerce, on account of its rapid waters. The Chattahoochee may be ascended for 350 miles, to Columbus. The noble Ten- nessee River, heading southward from Virginia toward the Gulf, is repelled by the rocky bar- riers of northern Alabama, and sweeps around toward the north, with 250 miles of its course within this State, navigable by steamboats from Decatur to Knoxville, and from Florence to the Ohio River. The rocky Muscle Shoals long prevented the passage of steamboats between Decatur and Florence (38 miles). The Government has spent $4,000,000 in building a canal around the Shoals, and in 1889 the first steam- boat traversed this avenue of commerce. The Climate of Alabama shows a mean yearly temperature of 65. tP (and 53^ inches of rainfall) at Mont- gomery, and 66. 7° (and 64^ inches of rainfall) at Mobile. The variations are from 82° to 18° Fahrenheit in winter, and from 105° to 60° in summer. This is the temperature of Sydney, Valparaiso and Algiers. The autumn and winter winds MOBILE : COTTON EXCHANGE. GREENSBORO : SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 31 are from the northeast and northwest ; the sumn>er winds from the southeast. The pic- turesque hill-country is cool and healthy, with a genial and temperate climate. The lowland counties sometimes suffer from summer heat, and from malaria along the Gulf and rivers, and intermittent and congestive fevers. Snow is seldom seen, and the rivers never freeze over. Agriculture employs 400,000 Alabamians, on 140,000 farms, with $80,000,000 worth of land and buildings, $4,000,000 in machinery, and $25,000,000 in live stock, the yearly pro- ducts being valued at $57,000,000. The latter include 700,000 bales of cotton, 450,000 pounds of tobacco, 810,000 pounds of rice, 40,000,000 bushels of cereals (mainly corn and oats) and 52,000 tons of hay. Cotton, the great staple of Alabama, grows mainly in the Black Belt and the Tennessee and Coosa valleys. Mississippi, Georgia, and Texas alone surpass Alabama in this product. There are 114,000 horses, 121,000 mules, 800,000 cattle, 350,000 sheep, and 1,400,000 swine. The dairy products are 8,000,000 pounds of butter and 270,000 gallons of milk. During the decade of the Secession War, over 1,000,000 acres of Alabama farms relapsed into the wil- derness, and the live-stock and farm- products were reduced by one-half. The totals of production in i860 have never been reached LANDS OF THE ALABAMA LAND AND DEVELOPMENT CO. since. The de- cadence of Ala- bama as an agri- cultural State is at- tributed by Dr. Hil- gard to the exhaus- tion of her soil by improvident culture, and by Col. Milner to the dearth of labor, caused by the indolence of the negroes, now no longer compelled to woik. Latterly, improved methods are being adopted, with increased willingness to labor and intelligence in adaptation. Supplies are produced at home, crops are diversified, and increased attention is paid to stock-raising and grasses. The soil is rich and productive, except in the south, much of which is sandy, and occupied by noble pine woods. In the north and centre are large forests of oaks, pines, hickories, poplars, chest- nuts, cedars, mulberries, elms and cypresses. There are extensive areas of public lands, the land-office being at Montgomery. Along the borders of Alabama and Mississippi, from Aberdeen to the Gulf, extends a belt of 850,000 acres of land, traversed and owned by the Mobile & Ohio Railroad, and controlled by the Alabama Land and Development Company, of Mobile. Parts of this imperial domain lie in the prairie and flat-woods belts, but most of its Alabama section is in the long-leaf- pine belt of Washington and Mobile counties, a region of sandy loam, cultivated with extra- ordinary ease, and already largely devoted to truck and fruit farms. The National Government, through the States of Alabama and Mississippi, granted these lands to the railway, which sells them at from $1.50 to $15 an acre, with long credits. Large areas have already been thus disposed of in Washington County, the oldest county in the State, and the seat of St. Stephens, its first capital ; and other tracts have been taken up near Mobile, on the west. The genial climate renders it possible to raise several crops yearly, with level and shallow cultivation, and skillful fertilizing. ' 32 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. COLLEGE, NEAR MOBILE. In this beautiful and highly diversified Commonwealth there is almost every variety of scenery, climate and product. Thus immigrants and investors find interest in Escambia's great forests of yellow-heart pine ; Blount's deep caverns and famous apple-orchards ; the gray prairies of Bullock and Butler ; the ham- mocks of Conecuh ; the Tyrolese scenery of Etowah and Marshall ; the alluvial cane-brake region of Marengo; the corn-lands of Mont- gomery and Wilcox ; the coal-fields of Walker and Jefferson ; the gold mines of Talladega ; and many other features of the mountain and plain counties. The Minerals of Alaljama are of great in- terest, and their development seems likely to change the State from an agricultural region to a manufacturing and mining country of almost limitless resources. The Black-Warrior, Coosa and Cahaba coal-fields and iron-beds are capable of enormous development. The iron ore in sight is of an incalculable amount, the Red-Mountain vein alone being 30 feet thick, half a mile wide and 100 miles long. The close proximity of inexhaustible supplies of bituminous coal makes this region, with its genial climate and rich agricultural valleys, the cheapest place in the world to manufacture iron. Within 15 years the output of pig-iron in Alabama has increased twenty-fold, and the State now ranks next to Pennsylvania anti Ohio. The strata are from six to 150 feet deep, and include red hematite and brown ores. There are 50 blast-furnaces in opera- tion, producing yearly 1,000,000 tons of pig-iron. The coal yield has risen to 3,380,000 tons. Am^)ng other mineral products are granite, white and colored marble in great quanti- ties and variety (near Talladega), flagstones, roofing-slate, lime, soap- stone, asbestos, porcelain-clay, ochre, and mang.anese. Gold, copper, graphite, lead and corundum are also found. The State con- tains many mineral waters, such as the Blount, Shelby, Bladon, Talladega, Jackson, White Sulphur and St. Clair Springs, all of which are sulphurous. There are also chalybeate and saline springs. At these points stand hotels for health-seekers, open all the year, and much visited by the aristocracy of the Gulf cities. Bladon Springs are in the Piney Woods, four miles from the Alabama River, with carbonated alkaline water ; Blount Springs, in a trian- gular valley, 1,580 feet above the sea ; and Bailey Springs, on the highlands near the Muscle Shoals, nine miles from Florence. The Hotel Monte Sano, near Huntsville, and 1,691 feet above the sea, has valuable iron and alum waters, with beautiful scenery and invigorating air. The Hygeia Hotel is a sanitarium at Citronelle, 30 miles north of Mobile, in the pine- woods ; and Spring Hill, overlooking Mobile and the bay, has a similar institution, together with many delightful villas. Anniston, Verbena and Mountain Creek are popular vaca- tion-resorts in the hill-country ; and many health-seekers visit Evergreen, in the great pine-woods. The foremost of the salt-water pleasure-resorts is Point Clear, near the blue waters of Mobile Bay. Government. — The governor is elected for two years, the president of the Senate succeeding in case of removal. The secretary of State, treasurer, auditor, attorney -general, commissioner of agriculture, and superintendent of public instruction also hold for two years. The General Assembly, composed of 33 senators and 100 representatives (126 Democrats EAST LAKt : HOWARD COLLEGE. MOBILE : HIGH SCHOOL. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 2>Z BIRMINGHAM : UNION DEPOT. and seven others), has biennial sessions, of not more than 50 days. The civil divisions of the counties are called "beats" or precincts, instead of townships or parishes. The judiciary includes the Supreme Court, with four justices ; the ten districts of the circuit courts, with judges elected by the people for six years ; the five chancellors of the courts of chancery in equity cases (established in 1839), and the probate courts. There are United-States District Courts at Birmingham, Montgomery and Mobile. The Capi- tol, at Montgomery, is a substantial building with a many-columned Grecian portico, and a high dome. It stands on Capitol Hill, at the head of Dexter Avenue, and dates from 1849. Here the Confederate Govern- ment was organized, February 6, 1 861, and the Con- federate Congress held its earlier sessions. The Alabama State Troops have shown great efficiency at different times, when called out to support the civil authorities. They are armed with Spi'ingfield breech-loaders, the artillery including Catlings, Napoleons and three-inch rifles. The First Regiment has its headquarters at Mobile ; the Second, at Birmingham ; and the Third at Selma. There are four batteries and two troops attached to the regiments. Mobile and Montgomery have colored companies. The State Troops hold regiment- ^ al encamp- ments, for a week in summer, and are inspected by United- States army officers. Charities and Corrections. — The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, at Talladega, was opened in i860, and has 53 inmates (whites). The Alabama Academy for the Blind, formerly united with the above-named, became mdependent in 1887. It has 30 pupils (whites). The State Insane Asylum was opened at Tuskaloosa, in 1 861, and has 340 inmates. The State Penitentiary at Wetumpka dates from 1 84 1. The county convicts are farmed out to contractors, and kept in private prisons and convict-camps, where they formerly suffered incalcula- bly from cruel punishments, vermin and sickness, until, in many cases, death set them free. Recently, marked improvement has been made in this system. The Rev. F. H. Wines of Illinois pronounces Alabama's to be the best example of the lease system in the Union. The majority of the able-bodied convicts work in the mines near Birmingham. The report of the State health officers for 1889 showed a mortality of 20 per cent, in the Coalburg prison- camp. Alabama has 1,500 insane persons, 2,200 idiots, 1,400 blind, 700 deaf-mutes, 700 paupers, and 1,400 prisoners. National Institutions. — The Mount- Vernon Barracks occupy a high plateau 28 miles , north of Mobile, with their massive buildings amid oak and magnolia groves, surrounded by heavy brick walls. This is one of the handsomest posts of the army; and dates from 1829, when Andrew Jackson ordered an arsenal to be established here, on the site of one of his favorite camp-grounds. In 1873 it was trans- formed into a barrack, now occupied by part of the 4th United-States Artillery. In 1S89-91 Geronimo, Nana, Loco, and 380 other Arizona Apaches, prisoners of war, were quartered here, under active religious and educational influences. The United-States Marine Hospital is at Mobile. Fort Morgan, 30 miles south of Mobile, was founded in 1819, on the site of Fort Bowyer, and cost $1,250,000. Fort Gaines is a pen- tagonal work on Dauphin Island, three miles from Fort Morgan, across the channel. Neither BIRMINGHAM : COURT-HOUSE. MONTGOMERY : COLORED SCHOOLS. 34 JTING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ,Mw#>, HUNTSVILLE : THE POST-OFFICE. of these works is garrisoned. The lighthouses arc on Sand Island, Mobile Point (Fort Mor- gan), Dog-River Bar, Choctaw Pass and Battery Gladden. Education, in its higher forms, began with Greene Academy, at Hmitsville, in 1812. A good public-school system was inaugurated in 1854, but the war and reconstruction crippled it seriously. The normal schools have all been founded since 1872, and contain 1,200 stu- dents. The normal schools for whites are at Florence, Jacksonville, Livingston and Troy. In 1880, Alabama, out of a population of 1,262,505, had 433,447 persons above the age of ten who could not write. This appalling army of illiterates is mainly composed of negroes and rustics ; ^ and the local educators are making earnest efforts to secure more and better means to reduce the prevailing ignorance. Ala- bama has a school population of 485,551, with an aver- age daily attendance of 162,516. The school age is from 7 to 21 ; the average duration of the school year, 155 days in the cities, and 70 days in the country ; the yearly expense, .$750,000. The Teachers' Reading Circle, the Colored Teachers' Association, the State Teachers' As- sociation (white), the Congressional (District) Teachers' Institutes, and other active agencies are achieving a good work in raising the educational standard. The University of Alabama occupies an estate of 500 acres, at Tuskaloosa, with 18 pro- fessors and 240 students. It was opened in 1831, and has an endowment of $300,000, from lands granted by Congress in 1802, and held in trust by the State, which pays eight per cent, a year. The National troops burned the building, in 1865 ; and there are now four new edi- fices, enclosing a quadrangle, with Clark Hall, containing the great hall and the library (of 9,000 volumes). The three courses are classical, scientific, and civil engineering, with a law department containing 19 pupils. Military training is a prominent feature. The State Agri- cultural and Mechanical College, at Auburn, in the Cereal Belt, arose in 1872, as one of the National land-grant schools of science ; and has 12 instructors and 250 pupils. The Southern University, at Greensboro, pertains to the M. E. Church South, and has 12 instructors and 220 students. Before the war it was a rich institution, and it is now slowly regaining its former dignity. Howard College is a Baptist institution, founded in 1842, at Marion, and since 1887 located at East Lake, five miles from Birmingham, in the Ruhama Valley. Spring-Hill Col- lege is a Catholic institution near Mobile, opened in 1830, and with 100 students. The Medical College of Alabama was founded in 1859, at Mobile, and has 12 instructors and lOO students. There are 35 academies, with 6,000 students, including the colleges for women at Anniston, Tuskaloosa, Tuskegee, Huntsville, Tuscum- bia, Athens, Eufaula, Florence and Talladega. The colored people of Alabama have four normal schools, those at Huntsville and ?>Iobile being older than the white normal schools. The State Normal and In- dustrial School was founded in 1881, as an outgrowth of the Hampton (Va.) school, and has been very suc- cessfully conducted by Booker T. Washington, an emi- nent colored educator. Its corn-fields, orchards, work- shops and buildings occupy an old plantation near the patrician town of Tuskegee, in the Black Belt. The State makes a yearly appropriation, paying part of the expenses of this school, which has 600 earnest and industrious students. Talladega College was founded by the American Missionary Association in 1867, and has several buildings, and large tracts of farm-lands. There are 427 colored students, none of them collegiate. The theological school for Congregational ministers is at Talladega ; that for Baptists is at Selma University ; and the Presbyterians conduct an institute for training colored ministers, at Tuskaloosa. HUNTSVILLE : COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. THE ST A TE OF ALABAMA. 35 BIRMINGHAM : SLOSS IRON & STEEL CO. The State has 3,000 Sunday schools, with 20,000 teachers and 160,000 pupils. The religious pro- clivities of the people incline toward the Methodist and Baptist sects, the first having above 200,000 members, and the second 175,000. There are 12,000 Presbyterians, and 4,000 Episcopalians. Newspapers came to Alabama in 181 2, when Pasham started the Madison Gazette at Huntsville. St. Stephens followed with The Halcyon, in 1814; Mobile with The Gazette, in 1816 ; and Tuskaloosa with The Republican, in 1818. The Florence Ga- zette, Montgomery Republican and Claiborne Clarion appeared in 1820. Alabama now has 169 newspapers (15 daily, 144 weekly, and 8 monthly), with an average circulation of 681 copies. Prominent among these are the Mobile Register (founded in 1820), Montgomery Advertiser {I'iz'i'), Selma Times- Mail(^\%Z^~), and Birming- ham Age-Herald. The Chief Cities of Alabama (except Mobile) are modern, and some of them have risen with marvelous rapidity in the last 15 years. Mobile, successively French, English, Span- ish and American, and the commercial metropolis of Alabama, is one of the chief cotton- depots in the Union, and sends away 230,000 bales yearly, mainly by railway. There is also a large trade in lumber and timber, general merchandise and coffee, coal and naval stores, besides many profitable manufactures. The broad and quiet streets are shaded throughout with live-oaks and magnolias, and the gardens are fragrant with the perfumes of the jessamine and the orange. Gov- ernment Street has many beautiful and embowered residences ; and the Shell Road is a famous harbor- side drive. The city enjoys extensive railway con- nections, and has steamship lines to New York and Liverpool. Montgomery, near the centre of the State, is a growing city, with artesian water, street-cars, and electric lights, a prosperous rail- way centre, and a winter resort for Northerners, who enjoy its soft air and embowered streets. It is one of the old-time Southern cities, with an environment of large-pillared country seats, nestling in live-oak groves, and a State Capitol overlooking a great expanse of country, through which flashes the silvery line of the Alabama River. Since 1865, the population has quintupled, and many factories have sprung up. One hundred and thirty thousand bales of cotton are handled here yearly. Birmingham, the foremost city of Alabama, is in Jones Valley, six miles from Red Moun- tain, which contains millions of tons of hematite iron ore, close to inexhaustible supplies of coal and limestone. Founded in 1871, by the Ely- ton Land Co. , it has become "the Magic City of the South," with the largest rolling mills below Rich- mond, manufacturing rail and bar iron, plate and sheet iron, and factories for making ice, glass, stoves, bridges, chains, steel cars, and many other articles. It is recorded that Krupp, the Iron King of Europe, said : "Should fate drive me from Germany, I would go to Birmingham, Alabama ; " and the London Times prophesied that this is bound to become ANNisTON : ST. MICHAEL'S AND ALL ANGELS. the greatest mctal-workcrs' city in America. The BIRMINGHAM ; SLOSS IRON i STEEL CO. ■^6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. contiguity of the iron and coal makes it possible to produce the metal at the lowest possible cost for labor ; and the convergence here of six railways gives unusual facilities for shipment. Twenty-five furnaces are now at work in and near this city, giving cheap iron to the world. One of the pioneers in the astonishing development of Ala- bama's mining industries was the Sloss Furnace Company of Birmingham, which afterwards bought the Coalburg Coal and Coke Company, and formed the Sloss Iron and Steel Com- pany. This vigorous corporation has a paid-in capital of $3,700,000, and employs 3,500 men, with large mines, 800 coke-ovens, and four furnaces, adequate to the production of 450 tons of pig-iron daily. Here the world's problem of cheap iron is being solved, where the ore of Red Mountain, that mineral marvel of America, is manufactured into the best quality of metal, capable, with proper treatment, of suc- cessful competition with the finest Russian and Norway iron. At Birmingham, too, is the Morris Block, erected and owned by Josiah Morris, the millionaire banker of Montgom- BiHMiNGHAM ; JOSIAH MORRIS BLOCK, gj-y^ ~^\^q ^y^g Qj^g of '^^ earliest iuvcstors in the present city, and by whose aid the enterprise was carried through some of its earlier trials. This is one of the finest and costliest office buildings in the South, an architectural credit to the city, and thoroughly fire-proof. It is , ^_^^_^^.. _ ;^:;^=-_ occupied by banks and for of- fices of many kinds. Its up- per floors have been utilized as the Morris Hotel, on the European plan, the rooms be- ing the choicest in the city. Anniston, one of the love- liest cities of the South, and also one of the most remark- able centres of the iron indus- try in the country, rests on a healthy and pleasant plateau of northeastern Alabama, 900 feet above the sea, amid the picturesque wooded spurs of the Blue Ridge. Here the Georgia Pacific and the East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroads intersect ; and the Alabama Mineral Railroad runs northwest to the Queen & Crescent sys- tem, at Attalla, and southwest to the Georgia Central system, at Sylacauga. Anniston is built upon and surrounded by enormous beds of brown hematite ore, easily accessible and cheaply mined, low in silica and phosphorus, and containing above 50 per cent, of metallic iron. The first-class coking coals of the Coosa and Cahaba mines are respectively within 25 and 45 miles ; and the Anniston valley abounds in limestone for fluxing. Seven char- coal furnaces make yearly 50,000 tons of tough car- wheel iron; and two coke furnaces make 100,000 tons of pig-iron. On this site a furnace was built and destroyed during the Civil War. Samuel No- ble, a practical English iron-worker, then running a foundry at Rome, Georgia, visited the ruins about the year 1870, and becoming impressed with the enormous deposits of excellent brown iron ore, bought up large areas, upon which the Woodstock Iron Company started its first furnace in 1873, and anniston: noble institute for boys. a second in 1879. Associated with Mr. Noble in ANNISTON : THE ANNISTON INN. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. the foundation of the city were Gen. Daniel Tyler and Alfred L. Tyler ; and the new settle- ment received the name of Annie's Town (contracted to Anniston), from the Christian name of Mrs. Alfred L. Tyler. Until 1883 the great domains of the Woodstock Company were withheld from public sale, and during that period the corporation built streets and parks and laid out a model city, at great cost. Then they began to sell building lots, and the city flashed into life, with ANNISTON : GRACE CHURCH. NOBLE INSTITUTE FOR GIRLS : THE SCHOOL AND DORMITORY. h O S t O f manufacturing industries, making iron, steel, stoves, horse-shoes, furniture, brick, ice, and many other articles, mainly dependent on the molten ore of the furnaces. In 1S87 the land interest of the Woodstock Company, was sold to the Anniston City Land Company, which now owns nearly $5,000,000 worth of property, including 2,700 acres in the city, the Inn, and many dwellings. The country about Anniston is very fertile, especially along the Choccolocco and Alexandria Valleys, and among its other products the city receives 60,000 bales of cotton yearly. Under these favorable circumstances, Anniston has constructed a capital cotton com- press, and one of the largest cotton-mills in the South. The Anniston Inn is a handsome Queen- Anne building, with broad verandas and a richly decorated interior, standing on an emi- nence near the centre of the city, and commanding fine views of the mountains. Anniston has 25 churches, the chief of which is the great stone and marble edifice of St. Michael's and All Angels, crowning a beautiful hill that overlooks the city and its mountain-guards. This noble ecclesiastical structure was built in 1SS9-90, by John W. Noble, as a memorial of his father, James Noble, and his brother, Samuel E. Noble, one of the founders of the city. Noble Institute for Boys and Noble Institute for Girls were established by Samuel E. Noble, in recognition of the fact that in this beautiful new city of mountains the best educational facilities should be made ready for the young people. The two institutes are of a high grade, with first-class faculties, abundant laboratory and other facilities, and carefully planned courses in the classics, languages, science, art and music. The buildings are hand- some and elaborate architectural works, in pressed brick and stone, and provided with all modern improvements and conveniences. The interesting development of the new Alabama cities marks the dawn of a new era in one of the most conservative of the Southern States. The fact that the pig-iron product of the United States now exceeds that of Great Britain, and reaches nearly 10,000,000 tons a year, marks one of the most notable of modern industrial revolutions. In 1880, Alabama was the tenth State in respect to the production of iron, but now she occupies the third place, and yields one tenth of the American output, and one half of the pig-iron made in the South. As a producer of iron ore, Ala- bama now stands second only to Michigan, having passed Pennsyl- vania and New York, and yielding 1,570,000 tons yearly. This is the cheapest iron in the world, owing to the large open workings and the easy facilities for mining, which also enable the local mining companies to get out the ore for 69 cents a ton for labor, which is a lower rate than E MANUFACTURING QUARTER. avjvg's handbook of the united states. TUSKALOOSA : obtains anywhere else in the United States, the average American expenditures for wages per long ton being $1.06. The capital invested here in iron-ore mining is above $5,000,- 000, the entire American investment in this line being $110,000,000. The most valuable ally of the iron manufacture here is the coal-mining industry, which began in a small way in 1853, and reached by 1876 a yearly output of 100,000 tons, mainly for local use. This product has now increased to nearly 4,000,000 tons; and 7,000 men are employed in its manipulation. The three great coal-fields cover 8,660 square miles, lying along the valleys of the Warrior, Coosa and Cahaba Rivers, and bearing their names. The product includes all the bituminous varieties, such as gas, coking, block, splint and cannel, and provides the growing local industries with inexhaustible supplies of fuel for steam and furnace uses, and for domestic purposes. Jefferson County (of which Birming- iiam is the capital) produces more than two thirds of the Alabama coal ; and Bibb and Walker Counties come next, each with about 500,000 tons a year. ^__ The development of the wonder- ■^i;'.:'v5"^' 'i; :'; ,?/-.;. ^ fyj mineral resources of the State has been aided by the Geological Survey, which has been in progress since 1873, under the direction of the State Geologist, Dr. Eugene A. Smith, of the University of Ala- bama. Reports have been pub- lished almost yearly, and the survey has prepared an elaborate museum of minerals for the University. This is one of the benefits accruing to the State from its great educational institution, whose teachings are made general and popular by the appoint- ment of three free students from each county. Many of the leading men of Alabama were educated at the University, which is charmingly located in the cultivated city of Tus- kaloosa, whose broad streets, shaded by the native water-oaks, run down to the Warrior River, at the head of steamboat navigation, in a rich cotton district. Steamboats run regu- larly between the university city and Mobile, the great sea-port of Alabama. The intelligent development of the material wealth of the hills has caused the active and growing city of Bessemer to grow up on the lone fields of an Alleghany glen. A solitary log-hut stood here at the middle period of President Cleveland's admin- istration, where now the spires and factory-chimneys of an indus- trial metropolis are outlined against the deep green of the mountains. Bessemer was founded in 1887, and within three years arose to the position of an important manufacturing city and railway bessemer : office of the besse- ... c ■ r It 1 1 i 1 'it -11 1 MER LAND AND IMPROVEMENT CO. centre, with seven furnaces m full blast, large rolhng mills and cast-iron pipe-works (capacity 350 tons daily), fire-brick works, and many smaller industries, besides handsome public buildings and business blocks, eight churches, and two news- papers. The reason for this extraordinary de- velopment is found in the existence here of a long mountain-range of iron, occurring in veins from five to 20 feet thick, and containing billions of tons of ore, under conditions of surprising economy for development. The ore can be mined and 1, 000, 000 in dust has since been washed out of these placers. Within a league occur the gold-bearing quartz-beds of Sheep's Creek, whose product is shipped to Seattle for refining. Two miles from Juneau is Douglas Island, where John Treadwell established the works of the Alaska Mining and Milling Company. It is said that $600,000 in gold bricks are sent thence to San Francisco yearly, although the ore is of low grade, yielding but $7 to the ton. The quartz is easily quarried from the hill-side, and reduced by one of the largest mills in the world, with 240 stamps, 96 concentrators and 12 crushers. There are large deposits of silver-bearing lead a.t Sheep's Creek and between Norton Sound and Bering Strait. Copper is found abundantly on Kadiak and at Copper River ; bismuth on Mt. Verstovoia ; cinnabar on the Kuskokwim ; sulphur on Unimak ; and elsewhere amber, sulphur, marble, slate, petroleum and kaolin. Lignitic coal is mined on the Shumagin Islands, and appears at Coal Bay and Cook's Inlet. The fisheries are of enormous value. There are fifty San-Francisco and New-Bedford whaling-vessels m the Arctic Ocean, getting $1,500,000 a year in ivory, bone and oil. The salmon pack has risen 30,000,000 pound-cans yearly, besides 15,000 barrels. Prince-of- Wales Island, Cook's Inlet, Bristol Bay and Kadiak each have a score of large salmon-canneries. The Yukon, ST. -PAUL island: driving seals. HAUNTS OF THE SEA LION. 52 A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Kuskokwim and Nushagak rivers have unlimited supplies of salmon. 350,000 gallons of herring, vi'hale and dogfish oil are made yearly at Killisnoo. 5,000,000 pounds of cod are caught yearly. The yearly fur-yield of Alaska has reached 100,000 fur-seals, 5,000 sea- otters, 10,000 beavers, 12,000 foxes, 20,000 mar- ten, and 15,000 others. The Government has re- ceived from the seal islands a sum equal to that which was paid for the Territory. The plant of the Russian-American Company was purchased by San-Francisco capitalists, who were incorporated in 1870, as the Alaska Commercial Company, and leased the Pribiloff Islands for twenty years, with the privilege of killing 100,000 seals yearly. In 1890 the Government granted the right of taking JUNEAU ciTv. fur-seals to the North-American Commercial Com- pany, for the twenty years up to 1910, for a yearly rental of $60,000, and $7,623- for each seal-skin (besides $2 revenue-tax). The number of seals to be killed is limited, the first year to be not more than 60,000. The seal islands are visited yearly by steam-ships from San Francisco, 2,300 miles distant. St. Paul's, of 33 square miles, and St. George's, and covering 27 square miles, have beaches, where the seals crawl ashore and breed, and in June and July the allotted rmmber of them are slain, and their skins salted and sent to San Francisco. There are 365 Aleuts on the Pribiloffs, with two Greek churches, English and Russian schools, good American houses, and medical care. 4,000,000 seals visit the Pribiloff Isles every summer ; and up to a very recent date the number was not decreasing, owing to the prohibition of killing females, and the precautions taken to slaughter only young bulls. This is the most important sealing-station in the world. 175,000 fur-seals are killed yearly in all parts of the globe, two thirds of which come from the American and Russian islands of Bering Sea, most of the remainder being taken in the sea itself. Grave difficulties arose be- tween the United States and Great Britain in 1889, by reason of American revenue-cutters seizing Canadian seal- ing-vessels in these waters. These poachers haunt the waters through which the seals pass every spring, where by indiscriminate slaughter, with fire-arms and gill-nets, especially of pregnant cow-seals, they threaten the extinction of the race. Only 21,000 pelts were secured in 1890, by the North American Company. Since 1867, the fur-seal skins shipped from Alaska have brought $33,000,000; other furs, chiefly sea-otter, $16,000,000; the canned salmon, $8,000,000 (the largest cannery in the world is at Karluk) ; codfish, $3,000,000 ; and gold, $4,000,000. Juneau, 166 miles north of Sitka, has two newspapers, an opera-house, a library, a brew- ery, and the Alaska News Company. Sitka, the capital of Alaska, has a quaint Greek Church, the old Russian Government House, high on a rocky pinnacle, the Alaska Historical Society, and a weekly newspaper. The harbor is deep and dotted with islands, and over it Mounts Verstovoia and Edgecumbe rise far into the sky. Metlakahtla, on Annette Island, is the home of a thousand semi-civi- lized Indians, transferred by William Duncan from British Columbia. There are schools, a steam sawmill, and other civilizing influences. SITKA HARBOR. FORT WRANGELL, INDIAN QUARTERS. jood All over the great Territory of Arizona, by the sides of its rivers and on its sun-steeped hills, are the fortresses and cliff-dwellings, the mines and terraces, and the great systems of canals which belonged to the partly civilized people who dwelt here six or eight cen- turies ago. Frank Gushing estimates that 300,000 persons then occupied the Salt-River Valley alone. The cliff-houses of the Rio de Chelly and the canons of the Colorado still present their problems to antiquaries, some of whom believe the early Arizonians to have been of the Pueblo stock ; while others trace them to the Aztecs. Among these mem- orials of a vanished race is the Casa Grande, a great adobe ruin, found here by the Spanish explorers of 350 years ago, and still standing in lonely desolation on the tawny plain, viewing the Sonora Mountains. The modern. discoverers of Arizona were an Italian Franciscan friar. Fray Marcos de Niza (Mark of Nice), whilom companion of Pizarro in Peru, and Estevanico, a freed African slave. In 1539 these two went northward from Culiacan, ' ' as the Holy Spirit did guide," and reached the Gila Valley. Estevanico was slain by the natives ; but Niza planted a cross in Cibola (Zuni), and took possession of the country in the name of Spain. During the next year, Alarcon navigated the Col- orado as far as the Grand Cafion, and Captain-General Cor- onado, with 300 Spaniards and 800 Indians, marched across Arizona, to the Moqui pueblos and beyond, fighting many a stout battle with the natives. In 1687, and later, Jesuit and Franciscan missionaries did great works in this heathen land, and founded many towns ; but the civiliza- tion which arose in their train vanished before the forajjs of the pitiless Apache warriors. The missions were suppressed by the Mexican Gov- ernment in 1828, and the Indians destroyed again most of the churches and mining plants, and reduced Arizona to savagery. During the Mexican War, in 1847, Gen. STATISTICS. Settled near Tucson. Settled in l( _ Kounded by .... Spaniards. Annexed to the United Stati Territory formed, .... 1863 Population, in 1870, . . . 9,658 In 1S80, 40,4JO White, 35,it>o Colored (civilized), . . . 5,280 American-born, .... 24,391 Foreign-born, 16,049 Males, 28,202 Females, 12,238 In 1890 (census), .... 59.620 Population to the square mile, C.4 Voting Population, .... Vote for Congress (1890), Dem., 6,137 Vote for Congress (1890), Rep 4.941 Territorial Debt, . . . $769,000 Assessed Property, . . $21,000,000 Area (square miles), . . 113,020 Delegates to Congress, . . i Militia (Disciplined), . . 307 Counties 10 Post-offices, 172 Railroads (miles), .... 1,097 Manufactures (yearly, in 1880), $615,655 Operatives, 220 Yearly Wages, .... $111,180 Farm Land (acre in 1880), 135.513 Farm-Land Values, . $1,127,946 Farm Products (yearly), $614,327 Colleges and Professional Schools I School-Population, . . . 10,303 School Attendance, . . . 3,849 Public Libraries, 2 Volumes, 8,000 Newspapers, 34 Latitude 31° 20' to 37° Longitude, . . . 69''53' to 73''32' Temperature, .... 8° to 109° Mean Temperature (Tucson), 69° TEN CHIFF PLACES AND THEIR POP- ULATIONS. (Census of 1850 ) Tucson, 5,150 Phoenix, ... ... 3, Tombstc Yuma, . . Prescott, . Hisbee, Florence, Nogalts, . Flagstaff, Globe, . 1.875 1.773 1.759 1.535 1,486 1.19+ 963 t03 54 A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. S. W. Kearney marched his command through the Gila Valley, and first brought this country to the notice of Americans. The part north of the Gila was ceded to the United States by Mexico in 1848, and the 40,000 square miles south of the Gila came by the Gadsden Purchase, in 1853, from Mexico, for $10,000,000. Gen. Gadsden made great efforts to have his purchase include Guaymas, but Con- gress did not support him, and thus Arizona is devoid of a seaport. In 1861 the United-States garrisons retreated to New Mexico, evacuating and destroying Forts Buchanan and Breckenridge. The Confederates captured Tucson and threatened Fort Yuma. With Texan raiders on one side, Sonorian plun- derers on another, and the murderous Apaches everywhere, the Territory was mercilessly laid waste, and many of its people fled into exile. In May, 1S62, Col. Carleton's column of 1800 Californians marched from Los An- geles to Yuma, and entered Arizona, occupying it permanently for the Union, after a few CASA GRANDE. skirmishes with the Texan bands Vt this tlements north of the Gila knci The apart from New Mexico until 1S63 Be the Indians massacred moic than i 000 in 1876 the savages were placed on icser the railway locomotive ^ River, and the era of T came to an end. Yet even Apaches left their reser- many citizens of the Gila in the Sierra Madre, where with the Mexican Gov- foray occurred in 1885-6, before Gen. Miles cap- tains of Sonora. It is dangerous of the Apache quently to Florida and of Arizonians were killed of the hostile Apaches, has grown rapidly. The born Americans, from the na comes ivom A rizonac, the head of the Rio Al- ls sometimes called The Sunset Land show such grand effects of ^ > . , light and shade, such gorgeousness of coloring, or such magnificent sun- bathed landscapes." It is also known as The Apa- che State, from the war- rior tribe which for cen- CAVE DWELLINGS. time there were no set- Territory was not set tween 1864 and 1876 whites in Arizona ; but vations ; and in 1878 crossed the Colorado savagery and isolation late as 1882-3 the vations and murdered \ illc\ They finally took refuge Gen Ciook, acting by arrangement cmmcnt, attacked them. Another when Geionimo killed 50 persons tuicd the icd warriors in the moun- but 1 shoit time since the most bands weic banished to Texas, and subse- Alabama Yet even in 1891 a number by the Indians. Since the removal of many and the incoming of the railways, Arizona immigration has been mainly of native- Western and Southwestern States. Arizo- the native (Pima) name of a locality near tar. Patrick Hamilton says : ' ' Arizona and there is no icgion on the "-lobe that can GOVERNMENT MODEL OF EXTINCT PUEBLO TOWN. turies fought the troops of Spain, Mexico and the United States, and murdered thousands of miners, priests and travellers. These Bedouin of the West have destroyed nearly 200 towns and villages THE TERRITORY OF ARIZONA. 55 in the Mexican State adjoining Arizona, which is, therefore, sometimes called Infelix Sonora. The Arms 6 A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. DONNER LAKE. the craggy Inyo Range, each of them rising 10,000 feet above the wonderfully picturesque valley, down which Owen's River flows, to sink in the dead sea of Owen's Lake. Forty miles eastward, across several parallel chains of mountains, and between the Panamint and Amargosa Ranges, the Amargosa River sinks into Death Valley (where a party of immigrants once starved to death), 150 feet below the sea, an alkaline desert in summer, and a mud-flat in winter. The Amargosa and Funeral Mountains lie cast of Death Valley. The Inyo Range is lonelier than the Sierra, and forms with the "White Mountains a continuous chain of 100 miles long. As the Sierra goes northward it broadens and loses elevation, and where the Central Pacific Railroad crosses, it sinks to 7,000 feet. Lassen's Peak, a volcanic cone 10,537 feet high, dominates the valleys of the north. Seventy miles northwest rises the magnificent snowy cone of Mount Shasta, 14,440 feet high, visible for more than a hundred miles. Jets of steam and sulphurous gases emerging from Shasta recall former volcanic activity. The seven counties, Lassen, Shasta, Trinity, Humboldt, Del Norte, Siskiyou, and Modoc, north of the great valley, include a vast and thinly-populated country, rough and moun- tainous, with dry and barren volcanic plains and lava-beds in the east, and the Siskiyou, Salmon, and Scott Ranges in the west. Humboldt has 700 square miles of redwood for- ests, in which a score of sawmills are making slow inroads. The Coast Ranges form a vast assemblage of mountains, following the ocean-shore for over 400 miles, with almost treeless and waterless eastern slopes, and large streams and dense forests on their misty and rocky flanks toward the Pacific. This highland region, from 2,000 to 4,500 feet in altitude, and 40 to 70 miles in breadth, stretches from the iron- bound sea-coast to the Great Valley; and contains many beautiful arable glens, dotted with graceful clumps of oaks, and overlooked by higher expanses of chapparal and the bare peaks of the range. The tributary ranges are numbered by scores, especially in the south, where rise the Cuyamarca Mountains, whose chief peak looks into Mexico and out to sea ; the San-Gabriel Mountains, running from the Cajon Pass to the Los- Angeles River ; and the Santa-Ynez and Santa-Monica Ranges. The Santa-Lucia, San-Rafael, and San-Ber- nardino Ranges form an almost continuous chain several hundred miles long. The Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range are cross-connected by the Tejon Mountains and the Sierra Madre, under various names, overlooking the valleys of Los Angeles. Los-Angeles County is two thirds the size of Massachusetts, and lies in the latitude of North Caro- lina, in a climate-producing at once palms and bananas, apples and grapes, with roses blooming in winter, and summers cooler than in the Eastern cities. It includes a great series of valleys, falling from the Sierra Madre's snow-crested laby- rinths of canons and ridges, 40 miles wide, to the blue waters of the Pacific. One of the chief features of the view from the San-Fran- cisco region is the Contra-Costa hills, running from the Strait of Carquinez to Mount Hamilton, where it meets the Mount- ' Diablo Range. Mount Diablo's double-pointed crest, 3,856 feet high, is a famous landmark, and overlooks the Great Val- ley, the open sea, and the line of the Sierra Nevada for 300 miles. Mount Tamalpais, north of the Golden Gate, may be ascended by a carriage-road from the San-Rafael Valley, and commands a wonderful view. Mount St. Helena, a flat-top- ped extinct volcano, towers above the head of Napa Valley. vosemite falls. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 77 DEVIL'S CANON, The Ckcat Valley has a level ground of 450 miles long and 40 miles wide, covering 18,000 square miles. This huge elliptical basin is drained by the Sacra- mento and San-Joafjuin Rivers, the former flowing southward 320 miles from beyond Mount Shasta, and the San-Joaquin pouring northward 260 miles from Kern Lake. The Sacramento receives the Feather, American, Yulja and other rivers from the Sierra Nevada ; and is navigable for steamboats for 90 miles, to Sacramento, and for smaller steamers to Red Bluff, 160 miles farther. The San-Joaquin rises in the high Sierra, and enters the Great Valley at Millerton. It is navigable for steamboats as far as Stockton, and smaller boats can ascend to Tulare Lake. The united Sacramento and San-Joacpiin enter the shallow Suisun Bay, and flow between its low tule- covered islands into San-Pablo Bay, an expansion of San-Francisco Bay. Lake Tahoe lies on the Sierra, 6, 247 feet above the sea, abounding in fine trout, and with deep waters of exceptional purity and coldness, Mark Twain calls it "A sea in the clouds, whose royal seclusion is guarded by a cordon of sentinel peaks that lift their frosty fronts 9,000 feet above the level world." Tahoe is 22 by ten miles in area. Near by, the beautiful expanse of Donner Lake recalls a terrible tragedy of 1^46-7. The Truckee River runs from Tahoe to Pyramid Lake, which has no outlet. Mono Lake, with its cen- tral cluster of volcanic islands, and its odd-looking masses of tufa along the shores, covers an area of 14 by nine miles, with the Sierra Nevada towering over its crater-pitted plain on one side, and the frowning Inyo Range on the other. The intensely bitter and salty waters of this Californian Dead Sea are almost devoid of life. Tulare Lake receives the waters of King's River and the Sierra between its low and reedy banks, pouring down into the San-Joaquin in wet weather, and in dry times evaporating. Above are Lake Buena-Vista and Kern Lake. All these lakes have grown much smaller and Salter within ten years, as a result of irrigating canals taking away the water from the inflowing rivers. Tulare has lost nearly three fourths of its area, and settlers' claims fol- low the receding waters. One may wade out for a mile, without getting more than knee- deep, to the hundreds of small islands and liunchcs of tule, the homes of millions of white birds of the gull species. Into Owen's Lake, Owen's River sinks and disappears. It has been falling for many years, and growing more bitter and poisonous. It covers about 1 20 square miles. Goose Lake covers 200 square miles, and contains many fish. Near the immense areas of sage-brush on the Madeline Plains, the bright waters of Honey Lake glimmer over nearly a hundred square miles, in the wet season, and sink into a mud-hole later. A few leagues distant is the deep and crystalline Eagle Lake, shadowed by sombre wooded mountains. About 75 miles north of San Francisco, Clear Lake flashes among the high hills, for a length of 25 miles, with an average width of six miles, and a deep and crystal tide, the home of myriads of fish. Uncle-Sam Mountain pushes its sandstone cliffs far out into the lake, forming the Narrows. Along the shores, vineyards blossom and pretty villas gleam among the trees ; and a steamboat plies up and down from many-mounded Lakeport to the bright village of Lower Lake. The Californian coast finds its chief haven in the noVjle Bay of San Francisco, 50 by nine miles in area, sheltered by two peninsulas from seven to 15 miles across, between whose ,.e...; . v ure fhom pasadeha. A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ends opens the strait of the Golden Gate, 400 fttt deep, and four miles long. On the northern coast are Tomales Bay and Bodega Bay. Humboldt Bay, in the remoter north, has 40 miles of land-locked tidal area, entered by a narrow channel between roaring breakers. South of San Fran- cisco open the harbors of Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and San Diego, the latter of which is twelve miles long, and completely landlocked. Six light-houses beacon San-Francisco Bay, and seven shine out along the northern coast. The light-house on St. -George's Reef, Northwest Seal Rock, is one of the most remarkable in the world, rising, as it does, from a wave-swept rock far out in the sea. It cost above $Scx),ooo. The coast south of San Francisco has eleven light-houses, of which that on Point Loma, near San Diego, is the highest in the Republic. Eight leagues seaward of San Francisco rise' the rocky islets of the Farallones, one of which towers 340 feet above the waves, and upholds a first-class light-house, with a powerful Fresnel light. Midway on the coast of California, about 125 miles south of San Francisco, is one of the mar- vels of the continent. It is the Hotel Del Monte, at Monterey, opened in 1880, and now hardly equalled by any of the sea-shore resorts of the world, while in many respects it far surpasses all others. The building exemplifies the Gothic style of architecture, and is of enormous size, and equipped with every modern comfort and luxury. The great surrounding park shows the very perfection of landscape gardening, with avenues winding between lines of venerable live-oaks and pines, beds of rich flowers and tall cacti, down to the sandy shores of Mon- terey Bay, where there is a very complete bathing establishment, divided into four great salt-water tanks, heated by steam to different temperatures. The beauty of the coast and mountain-scenery around Monterey, the abiding interest of the old capital of California under Spanish domination, and the serene delight of the climate, have made this locality a favorite pleasure-resort for all seasons (for in this equable climate there are but a few degrees of difference between July and January). The charges for accommodation at this famous re- sort are very moderate, and the extra cost of a trip to California is more than counterbalanced by the difference in rates at the various well-known resorts of the United States and Europe and this incom- parable hotel. This superb establishment, with its leagues of neighboring beaches, its acres of roses and violets and heliotropes, the mingled perfumes of pine- trees and salt waves, and the lovely and healing cli- mate, has been visited and enjoyed by the foremost ^ r- „ ^ ' J J J LAIYlULUb ; Tut MUIML (JF RAfflOl'4 THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 79 SANTA BARBARA. American and European travellers, all of whom have been enthusiastic in its praise. The hotel property consists of 7,000 acres of land, compris- ing the Monterey peninsula, through which have been constructed finely macadamized roadways, including the celebrated Eighteen-Mile Drive, leading from the Del Monte around the coast- line, by the cypress groves and Carmel Bay, and back to the house. The hotel company also con- trols tiie great summer-resort of Pacific Grove, between Monterey and Point Pinos, with its El Carmelo hotel and surrounding cottages and villas, where upwards of 5,000 people pass their happy summers. The beautiful Valley of Santa Clara is one of the most attractive and interesting regions of California, very accessible to San Francisco and the sea, and yet with all the charms of the fairest rural regions of the Golden State. The climate is one of the best in the world, almost semi-tropical in its softness, and tempered by bracing and salubrious trade-winds from the Pacific. Every one who visits the Lick Observatory goes by way of San Jose, and in order to accommodate these visitors, and also many people entering the Santa-Clara region in search of health and beauty, the great Hotel Vendome has been erected, in the centre of a beautiful park of twelve acres, at San Jose, planted with the choicest shrubbery and trees, a quarter of a century ago, by one of the pioneers of California. Ris- ing from the midst of this magnificent estate, stands the hotel, provided with every modern im- provement, a favorite both as a summer and as a winter resort, and the permanent home of wealthy families. Every convenience and facility is afforded here for people on their way to and from the famous Lick Observatory and the many other points of in- terest in this wonderful fruit-growing valley. Santa Cruz, with its fine beach and picturesque mountains, is rich in singular rock-formations ; and near it rises a historic group of huge redwood trees. Santa jSIonica, on its beautiful bay, upon which the Sierra Santa Monica looks down, is a well-known pleasure-resort ; and farther down the coast Long Beach, Del Mar, Ocean- side, San Juan-by-the Sea, and other popular beaches afford recreation-ground for thou- sands, with surf-bathing all winter. Off the southern coast, from 20 to 60 miles in the ocean, lie eight islands, rising from the blue sea to mountainous heights, and bearing melodious old Spanish names. One of them has a quaint little village and harbor ; three or four are inhabited by myriads of sheep, with solitary shepherds ; and others know only the sounds of multitudinous sea-birds and the seals and sea-otter that clamber over their rocky shores. \Vhen dark fogs brood over the niainlanil, these islands bask under a deep azure sky, and listen to the ceaseless roar- ing of the Pacific. Santa Catalina, a score of miles long, attains a height of 3,000 feet and may be seen from Los Angeles, 40 miles away. Its beautiful marine scenery and bracing air have attracted many summer visitors, in the hotel, and in camps along the shore. Santa Cruz, ascending 1,700 feet into the clear sea-air, is the home of myriads of sheep. Santa Rosa has 42 miles of coast-line, with bold and noljle highlands, and a great product of wool. SAN JOSE : THE ALAMEDA. The watcrs of California abouixl in valualile fish. SAN JOSE: HOTEL VENUOMt. 8o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. mi and the State Board of Fish Commissioners maintains hatcheries, dams, fish-ways and patrol boats. The streams have been stocked with black bass, trout and shad, and sturgeon and salmon abound — . in the rivers. There are plenty of rockfish and tom- cod, turbot and sole, and the delicate-flavored barra- couta. The bay-shores yield small oysters and clams, muscles and shrimp, lobsters and crabs. The deep- sea fisheries employ 3,000 men, in 50 vessels and 900 boats, with a product of $1,000,000 a year, in cod, halibut, whale oil and bone. The fishing-banks swarm with food-fish ; and the fleet also cruises northward to Bering Sea. The spoils of the deep include also seals and sea-otter. There are salmon canneries on the Sac- ramento, and also on Eel and Smith Rivers. The valleys of the Coast Range, Napa, Sonoma, Petaluma, and Russian-River, on the north, and many others on the south, of San Francisco, are full of rich pastoral beauty. Nowhere is one out of sight of high foot-hills or mountain-ranges, which nobly diversify the scenery. In the farther south, hundreds of agricultural colonies have settled in the valleys within a few leagues of the sea, and begun irrigation-works, and the cultivation of fruits. The oldest of the colonies is Anaheim, founded by Germans in 1857, and now rich in 2, 500, 000 grape-vines and 90,000 sheep. Riverside, Ontario, Pomona, Glendale, Ocean- side, Fallbrook, El Cajon, Colton jind other towns have risen rapidly, of late, in this favored corner of the world. In the southeast the barren sands and scanty vegetation of the Mohave and Colorado MONTEREY : CYPRESS POINT. localities 350 feet below the Nubian desert in its NATURAL BRIDGE. ARCH ROCK. MONUMENT ROCK. Deserts cover thousands of square miles, in some the level of the sea. This unvisited land resembles loneliness and its weird colors and shapes ; and the Colorado is its Nile. Black and purple mountains '^J loom high above leagues of white sand and alkaline flats; and the lowest levels are diversified by mud volcanoes, where continuous streams of hot water and gas escape from the soft mud. The scenic wonders of El Dorado include also the natural bridges on Hay Fork of Trinity, and on Coyote Creek, in Tuolumne County ; Bower Cave, in Mariposa ; the Alabas- ter Cave, in Placer; the petrified forest of great trees, discovered in 1870, north of San Francisco ; and the lava beds and mountains of marble. The Climate. — The State Board of Health finds in California two climates, that of the sea, with low and even temperature and cold damp winds ; and that of the land, hot and dry. The valleys around the Bay of San Francisco enjoy a delightful blending of the land and sea air. The rapid changes in San Francisco almost justify the humorous remark that the proper costume to wear there is a linen duster with a fur collar. The damp day- winds rush from the Pacific through the gaps in the Coast Range, to replace the dry and heated inland atmosphere ; and vast currents of cold and bracing air sweep through the Golden Gate, to spread out in a fan-shape up the Sacramento and San-Joaquin Valleys. Thus comes some mitigation of the fierce inland heats, which at times reach 110°, but are never attended by sun-strokes. At night the breeze dies, the cool mountain-air descends, and San H Francisco sleeps in a light mist from the ocean. _i The climate is divided into the dry and the ""^^ rainy seasons, and these differ, from the love- ly spring-like winters of the northern counties SAN FRANCISCO : ALCATRAZ ISLAND. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 8r COLORADO RIVER NEEDLES BRIDGE. to the almost rainless years of the Colo- rado Valley, and also from season to season, so that the perilous inundations of one year may be followed by pro. longed droughts. The Sierra retains its snows the year through, and the remote mining towns endure an Alpine climate. The region of Klamath Lake sometimes has several weeks of sleighing ; but the coast and the valleys see little snow. The rainy sea- son is spring-like, and has many calm and sunny days, being the most agreeable part of the year. June, July, August, and September are singularly dry months. In an average Californian year there are 220 days perfectly clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy. During the long rainless and dewless summer, everything turns brown and sear, the ground wrinkles and cracks, and the air grows dusty. The rich green of Eastern landscapes is seen here only in winter and early spring. The heat of the summers is largely tempered by the clear- ness and dryness of the air, which favor radiation. The climate is much milder and more uniform than that of the other States in the same latitude, with summers whose mean tem- perature (60^) is within four degrees of the mean of the year. The warm dry winter air and bracing west winds of the southern counties are favorable for alleviating diseases of the throat and lungs. Although much farther south, this region does not suffer from the great heat of the Sacra- mento Valley, owing to its strong sea-winds and cool- ing fogs. The rainfall mainly comes during the nights nf January, February, and March. The mean average \\inter temperature of Santa Barbara is 55°; of Men- tone, 48.6°; of San Remo, 49.9°. Their tempera- tures in spring are, respectively, 58.3°, 57-4°> ^^^ 57.3°; in summer, 65. 1°, 73.3°, and 72.4°; in autumn, 61.9", 62.3'^, and 61.9°. The winters at Santa Bar- bara are warmer, and the summers cooler, than those of the famous Mediterranean health-resorts. The ac- curate and careful meteorological reports show but one night on record when a frost touched Santa Barbara (28. 5°). In the ten years, 1878-87, the thermometer at Los Angeles rose above 100° but seven times, and fell below the freezing point six times. The rainless south- east is extremely hot, the mean of Fort Yuma being 76°, and the thermometer ranging between 90° and 100°, night and day, for weeks at a time. The gloomy Colorado Desert is*swept by frequent sand-storms. The Great Valley is hotter in summer than the coast, and also 40° colder in winter, on account of the huge snowy wall of the Sierra. Earth- quakes have visited California many times. In 1812 the missions of La Purisima and San Juan Capistrano were destroyed, with many people, and a huge tidal wave swept inland over Santa Barbara. For months of 1872 the Sierra was agitated by earthquakes, which threw down great granite peaks, and opened cracks in the ground ; and 30 persons were killed and 100 wounded. Agriculture. — Many of the farms of California are on a grand scale. A rainy autumn is followed by plowing and sowing in No- vember, and copious latter rains in March and April ensure noble harvests in June and July. The cereal, hay, and root crops of Cal- iifornia are valued at $70,000,000 yearly. Vast areas, occupied by arid deserts, cannot be farmed, and much even of the Great Valley requires irrigation. Millions of dollars have been invested in irri- gation, in the south, and the fair green tides of cultivated vegeta- tion are already advancing on the Mohave Desert, and flowing over the red mesas of San Bernardino. Southern California, the scene MOSSBRAE FALLS. ^ calistoga: petrified forest. 82 ICING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SAN-DIEGO HARBOR. of a phenomenal growth in recent years, is one of the gardens of the world, and as fast as water can be led to its rich lands, all the valuable fruits and cereals of the temperate zone and the tropics alike are reaped. The California wheat is mainly Chilian and Australian, commanding very high prices, and largely exported to England. The wheat-crop reaches 33, 000,000 bushels, valued at $20,000,000 a year. San-Francisco flour is sent by shiploads to Central America, China, and Japan, 1,200,000 barrels being exported yearly. Barley is raised to the amount of 16,000,000 bushels. The other cereals have a much smaller product. The bean crop is very large, and 50,000 tons are sent out of California yearly, besides 50,000 tons of other vegetables. The prodigious mangel-wurzels and turnips and 200-pound pumpkins are the result of ten months of growth in this serene climate. Mammoth sugar-beets are raised easily, ten to 20 tons on each acre, and yielding a much larger percentage of sugar than the European beets. The first beet-sugar factory in the Far West was established at Alvarado, in Santa- Clara County, several years ago. Claus Spreckels started one at Watsonville, in the Pajaro Valley, two years ago, with a plant that cost !| 500, 000, and can reduce 500 tons of beets to sugar daily. Around Stockton grow vast quantities of chicory, always salable to coffee- merchants ; and mustard of extraordinary ferocity. Here, also, grows the Persian insect- powder plant, whose product is in active demand from Klamath to Fort Yuma. Sweet potatoes and peanuts are raised almost everywhere, in the warm, rich soils, especially in the interior valleys. In the San-Luis Valley cotton grows. The tobacco of the Pacific coast is rank and strong. Hops are produced to the amount of 40,000 bales yearly. California is now the foremost State in the Union for the cultivation of fruit, with 20,000,000 trees, growing rapidly and producing abundantly. Even the deserted mining- camps in the foot-hills have been replaced by vineyards and orchards. In no other equal area in the world can the fruits of semi-tropical and temperate regions be grown to such perfection, side by side, in the same orchard, orange and apple, lemon and cherry, olive and plum, fig and pear, the pomegranate, the prune, peach, apricot, nectarine, vine, nuts, and cereals. The orange, lemon, and lime thrive along the foot-hills of the Sierras, from Red Bluff on the north to National City on the south. The famous Magnolia Avenue extends for nine miles, between double rows of pepper trees. Great quantities of the finest oranges are sent out from the Sacramento region, and the sheltered valleys of the Coast Range, and the red soils of the northern foot-hills. California has shipped 4,000 carloads of oranges in a season. These oranges do not compete with those of Florida, since the season of sale is from February to July, when the Florida fruit is not in the market. Within a decade, California will probably supply the continent with lemons, as trees are being planted in great numbers, and already the export reaches 50,000 boxes yearly. The Californian limes are of excellent quality. The entire range of deciduous fruits grows to perfection, and the crop has reached 300,000,000 pounds. Peaches are shipped ripe, by train-loads, and meet with a ready sale. The pro- duction yearly of 2,000 tons of choice sun-dried and evaporated peaches fails to supply the market, while the demand for canned peaches and other fruits comes from all over the world. Here the delicious apricot and nectarine are produced in abundance and perfection, most of them being canned, with 3,000,- 000 pounds dried. Prune-growing has assumed vast proportions, with 1,000,000 trees. Their qual- ity became known quickly, and they sell at prices W^ A Ife"'^ ii....*^ ^^ m "^'^irr'T'-' '^sww ^'/w^^feS^ M wl^^B HiJiiiiiMillJiiMii HETCH-HETL THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 83 PALM CANON, above the imported varieties. The dried-prune crop has increased to a yield of 8,000,000 pounds. Califomian pears have no rival as a fresh fruit, or canned or dried. Figs grow and produce, but only recently have successful attempts been made to cure them. The State has 300,000 fig-trees ; and the same persistent experimenting that has produced the best raisins and prunes may give California the best dried figs. A full car-load of dried figs was shipped from Fresno alone, to New York, in 1889. The stately and graceful English walnut trees bear when ten years old, and beautify and enrich the country. The crop exceeds 1,000,000 pounds. The almond orchards, at blossoming time looking like "a rosy- white cloud or a pink snow-storm," bear 500,000 pounds yearly. Italian chestnuts, filberts, and pistachio nuts are also raised. The yearly crop of peanuts yields 200,000 pounds. Among other fruits are the quince, pomegranate, Japanese persimmon, guava, banana, and apple. The loquat is a yellow Japanese fruit, peculiarly adapted to the climate. Strawberries are in the market every month in the year ; and raspberries, blackberries, and currants are grown and canned in great quantities. Many date-palms have been raised from the seed, and bear both the white dates and the red (or China) dates. The cultivation of olives was introduced by the monks, and has latterly received a great development, the best varieties having been imported from France and Italy. The trees grow from cuttings, a hundred to the acre, in rocky and sandy places, near the coast. The olive is receiving more attention than any other tree. Its adaptability to the climate and soil is marked, and the results obtained in producing an olive-oil equal to the best imported article, are important factors. The Califomian olive-oils have the advantage of being pure, as put up by the growers, whereas the imported oils are (as a rule) injuriously adulterated. Her rapid advance in this industry will soon place California among the great olive-produc- ing countries of the world. At EUwood Cooper's ranche the olives are ground between great stone rollers. The expressed oil stands and settles for three months, and is then fil- tered through, six layers of cotton batting and one of French paper. When bottled it has a delicate straw color, and brings double the price of the best Lucca oil. A box of Califomian raisins was a curiosity a few years ago, and the total output in 1880 was only 75,000 boxes. The capacity now is 2,200,000 boxes of the finest raisins in the world. The wide barrens of Fresno County have been successfully devoted to this indus- try. The Califomian vineyards yield two tons of raisin-grapes to the acre, which exceeds the yield of the Malaga vineyards. In 1890 33,000,000 pounds were shipped. Among the prospering -industries of the Pacific Coast, one of the most interesting and profitable is that of putting up various articles of food and delicacies in cans and other ves- sels, for preservation and shipment. The abundant fruit production of California finds this one of its best outlets, and the delicious pears and peaches, plums and other fruits of the Golden State are thus sent out all over the world. Among the leaders in this business is the firm of Code, Elfelt & Co., whose great factories are equipped with all the modern devices for canning food, and employ a consider- able force of skilled operatives. This house dates from the year 1867, and its growth has been step by step with that of the fruit-raising industry of California, the main characteristic being the uni- form high grade, so that the Code, Elfelt & Co.'s Califomian fruits have long ago become the recog- nized standard for the best quality and choicest selection, and command the highest prices. OAN FRANCISCO : COuE, ELFELT i CO. 84 A'ING\S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Between 1858 and 1862 a wide-spread interest in vine-planting sprang up, and the State sent Agoston Haraszthy abroad to study European methods. He brought home 200,000 vines and cuttings from Europe and Asia Minor, Persia and Egypt. The ,. State Viticultural Commission was founded in 1880, since which the capi tal invested in tlje vineyards has risen from $14, 500,000 to $87,000,000. There are 200,000 acres planted with young vines, and producing over 300,000 tons of grapes yearly. In the four years, 1884-8, upwards of 50,000,- 000 gallons of wine were made in California, two thirds of which went East. The yearly product now is about 17,000,000 gallons, with 1,000,000 gallons of brandy, san francsco: teleghaph-h.llo.^lkvatorv. The grape country is 600 miles long and 100 miles wide. California has three grape-growing districts : (l), the Coast (Sonoma, Lake, Alameda, Santa-Clara and Santa-Cruz counties), producing fine grades of white and red dry wines, Sauternes, clarets and champagnes ; (2), The red Sierra foothills and the Sacramento Valley (Placer, El Dorado, Calaveras, Tuo- lumne, Yuba, Yolo, Butte, Sacramento and Tehama), yielding dry wines, table-grapes and raisins ; and (3), the southern district (San Joaquin, Merced, Fresno, Tulare, Kern, Ven- tura, Santa-Barbara, San-Bernardino, Los-Angeles, Orange and San-Diego counties), rich in sugary grapes, making heavy sweet wines, like Port and sherry, Angelica and Muscatel. Fresno County produces 700,000 boxes of raisins yearly. The old Mission vineyards sup- plied fruits until the handsome and prolific Zinfandel was introduced. But it soon became apparent that the Zinfandel was an inferior grape, after all, and to cap the climax, the phyllox- era came down on the Hungarian importation and bore it away. No new vineyards were re- planted with the Zinfandel, and the vine is being replaced with the choicest and hardiest wine- grapes from Europe, including Cabernet Sauvig- non. Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Tannat, Merlot and St. -Laurent grapes from the Bordeaux districts; Mataro, from Palos ; Semillons and Sauvignons, from Sauterne ; Pinot and Petite Sirrah, from Bur- gundy ; Johannisbergers, Traminers and Franken Rieslings, from the Rhine ; Chasselas, from Alsace-Lorraine ; delicious Burgers, from Moselle ; the rich Spanish Muscats ; and the favorite Hungarian table-grape, the Flaming Tokay. In no other vine region in the world, are all these splendid fruits found side by side, and they make of California the wonderland of the vine. California has the largest vineyard in the world, in Tehama County, on Stanford's farm. It contains 4,000 acres. The largest wine-cellar in the world is at St. Helena, the capacity being 2,500,000 gallons. The wonderful Orleans Vineyard is in Yolo County, near the entrance of the Capay Valley, and covers 400 acres of foot-hills, with vines grown from the choicest grapes of the Champagne and Burgundy and Medoc districts, in 45 varieties. The roads travers- ing this noble estate are bordered with fig and olive, orange and lemon trees. The great wine-cellar has every modern appliance for the manufacture and storage of 300,000 gallons of wine. The products of this vineyard are celebrated for their agreeable freshness in taste, and prepossessing bouquet, and are used at the leading American hotels, and also largely in Europe, where this estate has an agency. The Arpad Haraszthy's Brut, Arpad Haraszthy's Extra Dry and Eclipse Champagnes are the three famous brands made here, from natural fermentation in arpad haraszthy i co.'s Orleans vineyard. SWEETWATER DAM : IRRIGATION-WORKS. ORCHARD IRRIGATION. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 85 bottles, the process being the same as that used in France. The vineyard belongs to Arpad llaraszthy &Co. , who also have immense stores and warehouses in San P'rancisco. Mr. Haraszthy is the son of the pioneer of scientific grape-culture in California, and spent five years (1857-62) in Europe, studying vine- growing and wine-making. The phylloxera, which during the past few years played great havoc, is being overcome. The inferior grapes upon which the pest feeds are being rooted out, and the choice foreign varieties, which are sub- ject to it, are protected by grafting on native wild varieties known as resistant vines, which the phylloxera does not affect. The marketing of the wines of California is done principally at San Francisco, whence they are shipped to almost all points of the world. One of the largest, oldest and best known of the wine-dealers of California is the firm of S. Lachman & Co., of San Francisco, with a branch house in New York. At their establishment may be seen a wonderful and complete storage system for aging, maturing, and blending the native product. Its capacity of over 2,000,- 000 gallons, and the facilities for handling that immense quantity from year to year, indicate the incessant labor and capital in- volved in placing the wines before the con- sumer. The wines are contained in huge casks and tanks, varying in capacity from 1,500 to 16,000 gallons each. The pro- moter and founder, Samuel Lachman, still the head of the firm, has been a leader in the busi- ness for 25 years. The plant covers 275 feet SAN FRANCISCO s LACHMAN i CO squarc, thc greater portiou of whlch is occuplcd by thc immense storage vaults, three floors in extent ; and space set apart for the manufacture of cooperage occupies another portion of this ground. Forty men are employed in handling and preparing wines for shipment. Medals and diplomas have been awarded at various International Expositions, and many letters of encomium received from connoisseurs every- where. The wines are brought from vineyards throughout the State, and comprise white wines of the Gutedel, Sauterne, Traminer, Riesling and Hock types; red wines of the Burgundy, Zinfandel and other red-wine grapes ; and sweet wines, like Angelica, Catawba, Ports, Sherries, Muscat, Mount Vineyard, Tokay, Malaga, and Madeira. Special attention is given to the careful bottling of fine wines, and to the purchasing of fine brandies produced in the State. California is the foremost wool-producing State, for her 6,000,000 sheep give yearly 35,000,000 pounds of fine and heavy fleeces. In 1876 the wool-clip amounted to 56,500,- 000 pounds, but the industry has declined since that time. During summer and early autumn the high valleys of the Sierra contain innumerable sheep, driven up from the dry hot lowlands, where they pass the winter without need of shelter. There are several ranches of over 100,000 acres each, like the Lux & Miller, Beale, and McLaughlin, de- voted to raising cattle and sheep, with vast areas of pastur- age on the mountains, abounding in nutritious grasses. The State has 800,000 neat cattle, 50,000 milch cows of bear-valley dam. 86 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. POINT PINOLE : UNION STOCK-YARDS OF SAN FRANCISCO. good stock, 250,000 horses, and 400,000 swine. It produces yearly 15,000,000 pounds of butter and cheese, much of which is exported to Asia and the Sandwich Islands. Fully $30,000,000 worth of cattle are slaughtered yearly. The majority of the horses are Mexi- can mustangs, of Spanish breed, hardy little creatures, and good mountaineers, but packed to the ears with mischief and malice. Most of the old Spanish-Mexican population clings to the pastoral life of the stock-ranches, serving as herders, and galloping around the flocks, perched high on their peaked saddles on peppery little mustangs. The favorite forage-plant is alfalfa, or Chilian clover, a deep-rooted lucerne, resisting the fiercest droughts, and yield- ing twelve tons to the acre. The leading horse-breeding establishments are Leland Stan- ford's, the Hearst estate, and Baldwin's, where many famous race-horses have been reared. The erection of great stock-yards on ^ the Pacific Coast has been rendered neces- sary, for the food supply of the thronged and important cities of this fast-develop- ing region, and of the steamship lines running out of San Francisco. Vast quantities of canned and cured meats are also exported to the islands of the Pacific, and for the use of the Pacific and China squadrons. Accordingly, the Union Stock -Yards Company has been formed, with a capital of $2,500,000, and has built large modern yards on its 1,500 acres of land, on the main double-track line of the Southern and Central Pacific systems, with a frontage of nearly two miles on the Bay of San Francisco, at Point Pinole, near Berkeley. Of the live-stock grown on the Pacific Coast 85 per cent, comes to market over the rails leading by these stock- yards, whose wharves also are visited by ships from all parts of the world. Here, there- fore, will be the great distributing point for fresh and cured meats for an immense popula- tion ; and the pork-packing houses, tanneries, and similar industries will probably be concentrated on this tract, which is the most convenient place for their purposes in the vicinity of San Francisco. With a climate like Italy, Southern China, and Japan, California hopes to become the great silk-producing State. Thousands of black and white mulberry trees have been brought here from Milan, to afford food for the silk-worms. In 1854 the honey-bee entered Cali- fornia, and now there are above 50,oqo hives in Los- Angeles and San-Diego counties alone, besides thousands of escaped swarms, working all the year round. Over 6,000,000 pounds of honey are obtained yearly, besides 300,000 pounds of comb and 20,000 pounds of bees- wax. Some of the larger bee-ranches have 1,000 hives each, and every hive good for a hundred pounds of honey a year. The abundant spicy flowers and aromatic sage-brush give this honey a unique and delicious taste. There are several ostrich-ranches, where the beautiful African birds are successfully raised, each breeding pair having a pen of an acre in area, and living on alfalfa and corn. These powerful and pugnacious creatures are dan- gerously savage during breeding time, when they lay their eggs in deep holes in the sand. Gold Mining has produced in California, between 1849 ^'^'^ 1S90, nearly $1,300,000,- 000 in bullion. The State yields more gold than any other, and nearly half of the Amer- ican output. For 15 years (1850-64, inclusive) the yield exceeded 50,000,000 a year; but for the past 15 years it has fallen below $20,000,000. The gold-fields extend for 400 miles along the Sierra foot-hills, with an average width of 35 miles. Another smaller field lies in the north- west, in the Coast Range. Gold abounds in South- .Mi«_ ,JJi«:^U® ern California also, where Los-Angeles County . -~fc,m*-T- ' alone has produced $10,000,000. The first mining PUBLIC LIBRARY. was in the placers, where the gold-seekers washed THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 87 SAN QUENTIN : STATE PRISON. the earth or sand in pans or rockers, until the soil passed out, leaving a sediment of heavy yellow dust, which was gathered into an amalgam, by add- ing quicksilver. Very little placer-mining is now done, except by the Chinamen. In hydraulic min- ing, powerful six-inch jets of water, with head enough to be hard as steel, are turned upon banks of auriferous gravel, previously loosened by blast- ing, disintegrating them, and leaving the gold to be caught in cavities in the sluices below. To furnish this water, over 5,000 miles of aque- ducts were built, with reservoirs, dams, and trestles, at a cost of above $10,000,000. The hydraulic mines were mainly in Nevada, Placer and Sierra counties, and on the Klamath River. The gravel, or tailings, washed down inflicted great damage in the distant low- lands. The land-owners combined and secured judicial decrees against the miners, who were forced to erect costly and capacious retaining dams. As a result, hydraulic mining has been practically suspended, except on the Klamath River. In river-bed mining, the bed of the stream is laid bare, by diverting the water, and the gravel therein is washed in sluices. Drift mining consists in driving tunnels to the auriferous beds of ancient streams, bringing up the rich gravel, and washing it in sluices. One third of the gold is obtained by quartz-mining, crushing the gold ore removed from shafts, by heavy iron stamps, and extracting the precious metal, by amalgamating with quicksilver. This mining is done on the Mother Lode, which extends 80 miles, from Mariposa to Amador. The name of the Golden Gate, given long before gold was found in California, proved to be prophetic ; and myriads of Eastern Argonauts, Mexican-War veterans, Kanakas, Peruvians, and Australians poured into the land of treasure. In their min- ing towns, Red Dog, Git-up-and-Git, Gouge- SAN Francisco: united-states mint. -n- -ir t> t tv^ 1 tjt 11 tt 11 ti. ir 1 ,.\. Eye, \ ou Bet, JS early Hell, Hell Itself, and the like, they lived flush, and spent their gold as fast as it came — $3 for an egg, $15 for a shovel, $4 for a cup of coffee, and so on. Silver-Mines abound east of the Sierra Nevada, and have absorbed a vast amount of labor and cajiital, but have not been profitable. The lonely valleys beyond the Sierra are made more melancholy by the ruins of reduction-works and abandoned towns. The silver- belt stretches from Alaska far down into South America. It has produced $26,000,000 in bullion, in California. The chief Californian mines are near the Mohave River. The quicksilver product of California has exceeded $70,000,000; and goes on at the rate of 25,000 flasks (2,000,000 pounds) a year, much of which is exported to Mexico and China. There are 36 large furnaces now active, each roasting from 20 to 40 tons of ore daily, when needed. The deposits at New Almaden have produced above Soo,ooo flasks. Other mines are worked in Lake and Napa counties. Copper has been a valuable product, but the fall in price destroyed this industry. The high price of the metal since 1887 has caused several companies to re-open mines. Lead is produced from the silver ores of the Eu- reka, Cerro-Gordo, 1 'iri5pr,'5r«riiii •: . SAN DIEGO : hotel CORONADO. CORONADO BEACH. A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and other mines, mainly at the Selby Smelting Works, at San Francisco. Iron abounds, but is generally hard to get at, and remote from fuel. The first ex- ploiting of this product occurred in 1881, when the California Iron Company fired up furnaces at Clipper Cap. About 10,000 tons of chromic iron are ship- ped yearly to Scotland and Baltimore. Salt is made, by the evaporation of sea-water, at San Diego and Santa Monica, and on San-Francisco Bay. The Cal- ifornia Salt Works, at Mount Eden, have 3,000 acres of evaporating surface, and make yearly 15,000 tons of salt ; and 3,000 tons are made yearly at Dos Pal- mas, in the Colorado Desert. Borax is manufactured at Slate-Range Marsh, San-Bernar- dino County, to the extent of 15,000 tons yearly. The purest crystallized borax in the world is found in the lakes and springs of Lake County. The yearly product is valued at a high figure. Near Keeler great quantities of soda are made, by evaporating the water of Owen's Lake. The volcanic rocks of Lake County, reeking with steam and vapors, are rich in sulphur. About the year 1867, works were put up, and hundreds of tons of refined and brilliant sulphur went hence to San Francisco, until the competition of Sicilian sulphur destroyed the trade. Antimony has been mined on a large scale at San P^medio and Slay- ton, but without profit. As a producer of petroleum, California comes fifth, yielding 150,- 000 barrels yearly. It is pumped from deep wells in Santa-Clara, Los- Angeles, and \ entura counties, at from five to 200 barrels each per dav, and this region is equipped with refineries and pipe-lines. The oil-territory extends for 160 miles, and $3,000,000 are invested. The Pacific Oil Company's refinery, built in 1879 at Alameda Point, covers 15 acres. There are gas-wells near Clear Lake. Coal has been mined for 25 years on Mount Diablo, where there are veins of infer- ior bituminous coal (or lignite). Over 100,000 tons are sent yearly to San Francisco. Coal has been derived in large amounts from the mines of Contra Costa and Amador, but the quality is not of the best, and consequently the industry is declining. Tin is found in San Bernardino, nickel in Monterey, manganese in Alameda, graphite in Del Norte, and arragonite in Colusa. Elsewhere occur deposits of platinum, iridium, tellurium, cobalt, alum, asbestos, isinglass, bismuth, alabaster, mineral paint, and kaolin. In the early days San Francisco sent to Australia for the stone to build its old city hall, and to China for the materials used in the walls of the Union Club and the Wells-Fargo offices. Since that time the local resources have become better known, and hundreds of quarries are in successful operation. Granite and gray sandstone are produced in great quantities, and at many places. Fine-grained dolomite is found at the Inyo quar- ries, porphyry at Riverside, tufa at Napa, soapstone at Sonora, ser- pentine at Benicia, basalt at Concord, red and white marble at Plymouth and Colton, at Antelope Valley and in Amador, and black and blue slate near Placerville. There are large lime-kilns in several localities. The beautiful marble and onyx of Glover Mountain, near Colton, have a high decorative value, and are extensively worked. Another immense marble region is in Inyo County. The new Mills Build- ing is faced with Inyo marble. Fine bituminous SAN FRANCiscoT ST. -IGNATIUS CHURCH AND COLLEGE. i"ock, for Street paviug, is shipped from Ventura. SAN JOSE, FROM THE DOME OF THE COURT-HOUSE. SIERRA MADRE I CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. The mineral springs are of great variety, and occur amid beautiful mountain scenery. Napa Soda Springs flow from a mountain-side above the charming Napa Valley, and the grounds cover 1,000 acres, in which there are numerous stone buildings and cottages. The White Sulphur Springs bubble up in a deep and romantic gorge near St. Helena. The Hot Springs of Calistoga contain sulphur, iron and magnesia, at a temper- ature of 185°. The Geysers, one of the revealing marvels of the earth, with its " crust of fossils and heart of fire," are hid- den in a Tartarean gorge among the violet peaks and redwood forests of the Mayacamas Mountains, with boiling and spouting springs of iron, soda, alum, and ink, and white, red and black sulphur waters, dark Stygian pools, cliffs forever wreathed in steam, black swirl- ing caldrons, hot ashes, chemical odors, and intense colors, a veritable Satan's medicine- shop. The California Seltzer Springs have a good alkaline water. Highland Springs, in Lake County, are alkaline, and charged with carbonic acid. The hotel is 1,740 feet high, among the Mayacamas Mountains. Other resorts are the Aqua de Vita, in Alameda, with saline and sulphur waters ; the Mission-San-Jos6 Hot Springs ; the Byron Hot Springs, 65° to 128°, in a valley of Contra Costa; Paraiso Springs, near Monterey ; ^tna Springs, in Pope Valley (Napa); Campbell's Hot Springs, 5,025 feet high, in Sierra County; Skagg's Hot Springs; Bartlett Springs ; and Seigler Springs, near Clear Lake, with valuable chalybeate waters. Southern California has thousands of min- eral springs, bubbling, rushing, and jetting from its volcanic strata, like those at Lang, Temecula, Matilija, Temescal, San Juan, and San Fernando. The hot sulphur waters of the Santa-Barbara Springs are efficient in chronic rheumatism. The hotel is 1,450 feet above the sea, in a pleasant and equable climate. The Arrowhead Hot Springs break forth in a canon of the San-Bernardino Range. They number 25, at temperatures from 140° to 193° ; and the hotel is 2,000 feet above the sea. The Carlsbad waters resemble those of the German Carlsbad. The hot springs at El Paso de Robles have for many years been visited by people of fashion. The State Board of Forestry has done good service in introducing the Tasmanian blue- gum, Australian sugar-gum, Torrey pine, locust, wattle, and catalpa. It has six large parks, with plantations of trees ; and publishes valuable illustrated reports. The monarchs of all these woodlands are the Sequoia gigantea, growing in groves along the Sierra Nevada, from 6,000 to 7,000 feet above the sea. FTigh up in the valley of King's River is a forest, where for leagues the lofty tops of these redwoods rise above their lowlier brethren. The tallest of them reaches a height of 325 feet, and their circumference is from 50 to 100 feet. The bark has a thickness of two feet. The Big Trees have been visited by thousands of tourists since their discovery, in 1852, most of the people going to the Calaveras Grove, where there is a road and hotel. There are famous groves on the Stanislaus, the Merced, and the Tuolumne River. The Big-Tree Groves of Mariposa cover above 2,500 acres, 6,500 feet above the sea, and have been reserved as the Sequoia National Park. They contain more than 300 great trees, much marred by fire, but still wonderfully grand and impressive. The Calaveras Grove includes nearly 100 Big Trees, several of them over redwood forest. SACRAMENTO \ HE CATHEDRAL. 9° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. FORT BRAQQ : FORT-BRAGG REDWOOD CO. 'S MILLS. 300 feet tall. These are the loftiest trees in all America. One of them has been cut down, by- five men working 22 days ; and its stump forms the floor of a pavilion 23 by 24 feet in area. The redwoods (^Sequoia sempervirens), whose mag- nificent forests thrive only in the sea-fogs of the Coast Range, and mainly north of the Golden Gate, reach a height of 300 feet, and afford a durable and valuable wood for building. This is one of the most highly prized varieties of lumber, and has latterly been shipped in great quantities to the Eastern States, where its ornamental properties are fully appreciated. Among the chief handlers of redwood are the well-kno\vn and allied Fort-Bragg Redwood Company and Noyo Lumber Company, which own vast tracts of woodlands, and are continually investing in areas of forests. Their domain covers over 70,000 acres of land, and the rest of the plant includes eight miles of railway, besides vessels and mills, and other efficient and valuable auxiliaries. The chief mills are at Fort Bragg, on the great belt of redwood which runs through Men- docino County, along the coast, with a breadth of 15 miles. In this vast area of virgin forest the companies employ 800 men, getting out redwood and pine, for lumber and shingles, shakes and ties, logs and posts. The long ocean-frontage and the two harbors on this great domain give unusual facilities for the ex- portation of lumber, much of which is formed into rafts and towed to San Francisco. These companies were the first to inaugurate the raft- ing system on the Pacific Coast ; and they are the largest dealers in split redwood railroad ties, which have come into general use and favor. The other interesting trees of_the Coast are the cypresses of Carmel Bay, the great pines of Monterey, the glossy-leaved madrono, and the fine-grained California laurel. The Great Valley is diversified by many groves and clumps of lobata oaks, changing on the foot-hills to scattered Douglas and live oaks and digger pines. Higher up along the Sierra come the large white cedar, yellow and black pines, and Douglas fir, the last-named covering vast areas and having high economic value. On this same belt are the amazing sugar-pines, reaching a height of from 200 to 300 feet, and highly prized for timber. At from 4,000 to 8,500 feet above the sea, these trees give place to the grand coniferous forest of California, the hardy white, red and silver cedars and tamaracks and pines, and many silver spruces, above which stretch' the un- trodden snows and granite peaks. The hickory, beech, elm, and other well-known trees are not found here, and much timber has to be imported for industrial uses. The magnificent oaks and sycamores of the south fairly shut out the sunlight, and alternate with mountain fronts and canon-sides carpeted with chapparal, or matted thickets of innumerable many-colored shrubs. On the valley ranches long belts of eucalyptus and poplar have been planted for firewood, and to keep the wind from the olive- yards and almond groves. The chief animals are the fierce grizzly bears of the Coast Range ; the black and the cinnamon FORT BRAGG REDWOOD CO. 'S MILLS. FORT-BRAGa REDWOOD CO, 'S RAFTS. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 91 bears, the deer and antelope, and the mountain goats of the Sierra Nevada ; the elks of the Shasta region ; the famous sea-lions of the Farallones and Seal Rocks, whose huge size, unwieldy gambols and odd noises are observed by nearly all visitors to San Francisco ; the gophers and squirrels, detested by husbandmen ; and the beavers, still remaining in remote places. The birds number 350 species, headed by the largest Amer- ican flyers, the California vultures. Government. — The Governor of California is elected for four years. The Legislature includes 40 BIG TREES. four-years' senators and 80 two-years' representatives. The Supreme Court has seven justices, elected by the people for twelve years. The mag- nificent State Capitol at Sacramento was built in 1860-74, at a cost of $2,600,000, and stands in a park of 25 acres, abounding in lawns and flowers. The National Guard of California is organized into a division of six brigades, composed of seven regiments and four companies. The First and Third Infantry, Second Artillery (eight companies serving as infantry), Battery A (four Parrotts and four Catlings), and the Hussars, are at San Francisco ; and the Fifth Infantry belongs in neighboring cities. The Sixth Infantry comes from about Stockton ; the Seventh Infantry from the Los-Angeles country ; the First Artillery, from the Sacramento region ; and the Chico, Colusa and Eureka Guards. There are occasional encampments of portions of the National Guard, and some atten- tion is given to rifle-practice. The uniform resembles that of the United-States army. The Napa State Asylum for the Insane, with 1,500 inmates, is a noble building, sur- rounded by lawns and orchards, vineyards and olive-yards. The Stockton State Asylum for the Insane holds 1,700 patients, in commodious buildings, amid spacious and pleasant grounds. The California Hospital for the Chronic Insane, at Agnews, holds 500 incurables. The Mendocino Insane Asylum is at Ukiah. The South-Californian State Asylum for the Insane was founded in 1889. The California Home for the Care and Training of Feeble- Minded Children, opened in 1885, at Santa Clara, has over loo inmates. The California Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb and the Blind, at Berkeley, has 160 boys and girls, in a group of cottages looking out through the Golden Gate to the Pacific Ocean. There are 19 orphan asylums receiving State aid and inspection. The State Prison at San Quentin, twelve miles from San Francisco, across the bay, has 1,400 convicts, including many Mexicans and Indians. The State Prison at Folsom, opened in 1880, has 700 inmates. The State Reform School for Juvenile Offenders, at Whittier, in Los- Angeles County, is conducted on the cottage-plan, and teaches various trades, besides farming and fruit-growing. The Preston School of Industry for Youthful Criminals was founded in 1889, at lone City, Amador County. National Institutions. — The only American naval station on the Pacific Coast is the Navy Yard at Mare Island, 28 miles from San Francisco. The usual stone and brick buildings for construction and storage, hospitals and barracks, are grouped on one side of a fertile island ten miles around, with deep water and good anchorage off-shore. The three-million-dollar stone dr> dock can accommodate the largest ships in the \\oil(l Of late years the yard has been abandoned to peaceful decay, with the ironclads JMonadnock and Contaiiche rusting at their moorings, and I irragut's flagship Hartford rotting in the stteam. The Presidio Reservation extends along the Golden Gate, with pleasant pa- rade-grounds and barracks, and the lar- gest garrison on the Pacific Coast. Here BERKELEY : UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 92 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SAN FRANCISCO : THE SYNAGOGUE. Fort Winfield Scott's casemate batteries and barbette earthworks face the narrowest part of the Golden Gate. Fort Mason is another defence of San Francisco. Alcatraz Island rises inside the Golden Gate, as picturesque as Malta, with its ascending lines of fortifications. Angel Island is occupied by batteries, barracks, and parade-grounds. Fort Bid- well, the station of two companies of cavalry, overlooks the 6o miles of the Surprise Valley, with its three bitter alkaline lakes and wide-spreading plains of sage-brush. Fort Gaston, in the Hoopa Valley, has one company of bored and lonely infantry- men. There are barracks at Benicia and San Diego ; and an arsenal at Benicia. Southern California is in the Military Department of Arizona, whose headquarters is at Los Angeles. The National Soldiers' Home at Santa Monica occupies 300 acres of beautiful rolling land, and amid these magnificent scenes of nature, and in this glorious climate, 600 old warriors are quartered. The Vete- rans' Home at Yountsville receives disabled Californian soldiers. The Mission Indians number more than 3,000, and occupy 21 little reservations in Southern California. They are of medium height and sturdy build, with flat faces, of a ginger-cake color. Their chief occupation is farming, and many earn good pay as farm-laborers and sheep-shearers. The Hoopa Reservation covers 140 square miles, on the Trinity River, and contains 463 Indians of the northwestern tribes, mostly engaged in farming. The little Kla- math-River Reservation has 220 Indians, who excel in the sal- mon fisheries. The Round-Valley Reservation, in the northern Coast Range, with 500 Indians, has been almost entirely seized by white trespassers. Education. — The yearly school revenue is above $5,000,- 000. The school-property is valued at $14,000,000; and the school-fund, held by the State Treasurer, exceeds .$3,000,000. The State series of text-books are compiled and manufactured in California, and sold to the students at cost. The private schools have an attendance of 21,000 children. The normal schools are at San Jose, Los Angeles, and Chico. The University of California is the crown of the educational institutions of the State. It was developed by State and National gifts, upon a remarkable foundation — the old Col- lege of California, established before the close of the mining era, by Henry Durant, Dr. Bushnell, and other New-Englanders. This college maintained a standard of scholarship equal to that of Yale. In 1868 its trustees turned over the whole institution to the University, which was then in process of creation, and de- voted all their energies to advancing the interests of the enterprise. The Univer- sity, under the Hatch Law, controls $15,000 a year from the National Gov- ernment, for agricultural experiment stations. The State adds a large ap- propriation, and the whole, under the direction of Prof. E. W. Hilgard, is spent on four stations and several sub- stations, where many important horti- LOS ANGELES I •^1 _rTjT-Tr- T rr 1 1 1 I [ill 6AN FRANCISCO : THE PALACE HOTEU THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 93 LICK OBSERVATORY TELESCOPE. cultural experiments are made. The endowment of the University represents $7,000,000. In 1873 the institution moved from the old college buildings to its present site at Berkeley, covering 200 acres on the lower slopes of the Coast Range, whence the view passes seaward through the Golden Oate. It has upwards of 400 students, including 50 women. In the classical course there are 50; literary, 40; letters and political science, 106; agriculture, 14; mechanics, 23; civil engineering, 34 ; chemistry, 23 ; and others are in special stu- dents' courses. There are 27 professors and associate pro- fessors, and 28 other instructors. The schools of Dentistry (50 students). Pharmacy (77), Law (76), and Medicine (97), are at San Francisco. No tuition is charged, save in the profes- sional schools. The world-renowned Lick Observatory, and the astronomi- cal department of the University, was founded by James Lick, a Pennsylvanian, who made a fortune in South America, and vastly increased it in Californian real estate. He was buried (not at his direction) in the solid pier of masonry which upholds the great telescope, ordered in his trust deed to be "superior to and more powerful than any telescope ever yet made." The United States granted Mount Hamilton ; Santa-Clara County built a noble road, 26 miles long, from San Jose to the summit ; and California assumed the publication of the observations. The peak is occupied by the brick buildings for the observatories, instruments, and library, and the astronomers' dwellings. The view includes the bays of San Francisco and Monterey, the lovely Santa-Cruz Mountains, the San -Joaquin Valley, and the colossal Sierra, and Lassen Butte, 175 miles north. The telescope has an object-glass 36 inches in diameter, and a tube 56 feet long. It is the largest refractor ever made. Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland, (Ohio), designed and built the 36-inch equatorial telescope, and also the 6-inch equatorial and the 25 -foot steel dome. The time-service of all the Pacific railways, from Ogden to El Paso, is given out from the Lick Observatory. The University of Southern California, founded by the Methodist Episcopal Church in 1880, has large land endowments, with its colleges of letters, music and medicine in and near Los Angeles, a theological school at San Fernando, and a school of agriculture at Ontario. The Leland Stanford Junior University, planned by Senator Stanford as a memorial of his deceased son, and which he expects to endow with $20,000,000, will include a complete system of education, from the kindergarten to learned post-graduate schools, with colleges of law, medicine and music, conducted by the foremost men in these departments. The present endowment consists of about 30,000 acres of land, which cannot be sold. The University is at Palo Alto, south of San Francisco, in a lovely pastoral country, and with views of the Coast Range. Several of the buildings are finished, in a grand Moorish archi- tecture, of yellow sandstone. Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge, of Boston, are the architects. Among other colleges the Catholics have St. Vincent's (1867), at Los Angeles; St. Ignatius (1855), at San Francisco ; the Jesuit College, at Santa Clara, with 178 students ; the College of Notre Dame, at San Diego, for Catholic girls ; and the Franciscan College, at Santa Barbara. The Methodist-Episcopal Church conducts the Pacific Methodist College (1861), at Santa Rosa; and Napa College (1870), at Napa City. The Uni- versity of the Pacific has five large build- ings on its domain, between San Jose and Santa Clara, with 16 instructors and 188 students, besides 235 preparatory pupils. MOUNT HAMILTON : LICK OBSERVATORY. 94 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Cogswell Polytechnic College, at San Francisco, was erected and equipped by its founder, and is maintained by the city. It enjoys an endowment of $300,000, and began its work in 1888. At Woodland and College City are Christian colleges ; and San-Joaquin College is at Woodbridge. The theological schools are at San Rafael (Presbyterian; founded in 1871, and well endowed); Benicia (St. Augustine's, Episcopal); and Oakland (Congregationalist ; 1869; 35 students in 1890). The Hastings College of Law belongs to the University of California. There are medical schools at San Francisco, Oakland, and Los Angeles, with 225 students; and dental and pharmaceutical colleges at San Francisco. Belmont School was opened in 1SS5, near Belmont, on the Southern Pacific Railroad, 25 miles south of San Francisco. It was founded by the present Head-Master, W. T. Reid (Harvard, 1868), who resigned the Presidency of the University of California for the pur- pose of carrying out his long-cherished plan of erecting a preparatory school for boys, which should hold an honorable place among the best educational institutions in the coun- try. The location of the school is probably un- surpassed as regards healthfulness, beauty, con- | venience, and adaptability. Its steadfast pur- ' poses are to offer thorough preparation for those colleges and technical schools whose require- ments for admission are most severe ; to do all that it may to quicken the moral and religious sense, and strengthen the moral courage ; and ^^0 give such attention to systematic physical cul- ture as shall contribute to good health and a vigorous physical development. The graduates of the school have for the most part entered Harvard, Yale, The University of California, Cornell University, or the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. No candidate from the school has ever failed to pass the exami- nations for which he was recommended as prepared, and it is the only private school in the State whose graduates are admitted to all departments of the University of California without examination. Physical culture under the direction of a special teacher of.gymnas- tics is a stated requirement, and has a place in the programme of exercises, the same as mathematics, English, or any other requirement. Military drill is a feature only as an adjunct to the work of physical culture. The discipline of the school is very simple, and entirely in the interest of boys who are on the whole well meaning. Belmont does not pretend to keep and successfully deal with bad boys, and is perhaps a little intolerant of them, for it insists on their immediate withdrawal as soon as their unruly, vicious, or vul- gar dispositions become known. The school does not attempt the good work of reformation, and it is not therefore a fitting place for boys who need what is ordinarily termed severe discipline. The California Academy of Sciences, founded in 1853, was endowed with $500,000 by James Lick, and has large collections in botany, entomol- ogy, birds and fishes. It occupies a fine Roman- lii^ esque building at San Francisco. The Mining Bureau has an immense collection of Californian UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA : THE LIBRARY. orcs and mmcrals. BELMONT THE BELMONT SCHOOL THE STATE OE CALIEORNIA. 95 SAN JOSE : COURT-HOUSE. Public libraries are found in Alameda, Marysville, Napa, Oak- land, Petaluma, Sacramento, Ventura, San Diego, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Stockton, Riverside, and other places. In San Francisco the chief libraries are the Sutro, 110,000 volumes; Free Public, 70,000 ; Mercantile, 60,000; Ban- croft Pacific, 45,000; Mechanics' Institute, 45,000; Odd Fellows', 40,000 ; and California Academy of Sciences, 10,000. The State Library at Sacramento has 70,000; the University at Berkeley, 28,000. Hubert Howe Ban- croft, the historian of the Pacific States, has a fire-proof library at San Francisco, containing 45,000 volumes. The chief collection of paintings is the Crocker Art Gal- lery, at Sacramento. The statues of California include W. W. Story's bronze memorial of Philip Barton Key, erected at San Francisco in 1888 ; D. C. French's heroic statue of Thomas Starr King ; Mead's Columbus before Isabella, in the Capitol at Sacramento ; and statues of John Howard Payne, James A. Garfield, and Marshall, the discoverer of gold. The Newspapers of California include 86 dailies and more than 400 others. Of these 15 are in German, seven in French, four in Italian, three in Spanish, and two each in Por- tuguese, Scandinavian and Chinese. One of the most conspicuous buildings of San Francisco is that in which the Chronicle of that city is housed. It is the first tall fire-proof structure erected on the Pacific Coast, and attracts attention, because its enterprising owner, M. H. de Young, by his bold act broke down a long-standing prejudice against high buildings, which was the outcome of the fear inspired by earthquakes. Since the erection of the Chronicle Building this fear has been entirely dissipated, and other ten- story edifices are being put up. Mr. de Young's enterprising character has been displayed throughout his entire career. He has made the Chronicle the foremost agency in the develop- ment of the Pacific Coast, and it now has a circulation exceed- ing 60,000. He is well known in the political world, being a SAN FRANCISCO : THE SAN-FRANCjSCO CHRONICLE. member of the Republican National Committee and a prominent candidate States Senator. He is also one of the Vice-Presidents of the World's mission, and has expended a great deal of his surplus energy in the work tion. The great new building erected by and for the Chronicle looms with impressive effect, with a massive bronze clock-tower rising above the pavement, and bearing the largest dials in America across). The entire structure is a marvel of strength, stability and ness ; its wonderful frame-work of steel and iron uniting with an ex- stone and brick to form an edifice proof at once against fire and earthquake. Chief Cities. — San Francisco is the metropolis of the North Pacific, with almost the only good harbor from Mex- ico to Puget Sound, and seems destined to a great expan- sion, since it must always control the imports and exports and general markets of the Great Valley and Nevada. It is six miles from the Pacific Ocean, and occupies the point of a long peninsula, between the bay, the ocean, and the world-renowned Golden Gate. for United- Fair Com- of organiza- over the city 208 feet (i6i feet light- Icrior of 8AN FRANCISCO : THE STAR-SPANGLED BAN- NER Cor key's) monument. 96 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. PALO ALTO LELAND STANFORD JR UN VERSTY Among the abrupt heights which diversify the site are the Mission Peaks, 925 feet high, and Russian and Tclegiaph Hills. The Golden-Gate Park has cost $1,000,000, and covers 1,013 acres, out to the ocean-shore ; and the Cliff House KiT^ and Seal Rocks and Sutro Heights '3J»fi^«ifv ^ are at Point Lobos, with the Presidio ~^'^- " "" Reservation farther within the Gol- den Gate. San Francisco is grow- ing rapidly, with 16 lines of cable- roads, steamboats to many points on the bay and rivers, and 50 steam- ships running to the Sandwich Islands, and the Pacific, Asiatic and Australian ports. The chief imports are sugar, tea, rice, and coffee. The City Hall, begun in 1871, has cost $4, 500,000. This is a wonderfully cosmopolitan city, where almost every civilized language may be heard. Mexican infantry marches down the streets to celebrate the anniversary of the independence of Mexico ; Italian societies commemorate the unity of Italy ; the Chinese haul their divine dragon, 100 feet long, through the streets of their quarter (where 20,000 Chinamen dwell), amid an amazing din of fire-crackers, drums, cymbals and flutes ; and Irishmen celebrate or contemn the Battle of the Boyne. The beautiful bay, lined with white cities and reflecting great mountain-ranges, is traversed by ocean-steamships, ferry-boats, and sailing vessels, from the unwieldy junks of the Chinese shrimpers and the lateen- sailed feluccas of the Maltese and Greek fishermen to the towering white canvas of the clipper-ships. The city has manufactories of iron, glass, woolens, blankets, cable and wire, flour, mining machinery, cordage, and sugar, employing 7,000 operatives, with a yearly pro- _-~§^S duct of $82,000,000. The grain-fleet ships 1,000,000 tons each year, and the value of the yearly imports "-os angeles : army headquarters. and exports is $150,000,000, employing a large number of steamships and packets. In San Francisco there has just arisen a period of grand and lofty buildings. After the Chronicle Building came the fine Mark Hopkins Building. The superb D. O. Mills Build- ing is being erected at a cost of $1,250,000. It will be an office structure, flesigned with rich Southern feeling in its details. It will be ten stories high, 160 by 138 feet, the lower three stories of white Inyo marble, the upper seven of delicate creamy buff brick, and terra cotta of the same color. A main feature is an elegant sky-lighted rotunda, beautifully constructed of marble. Its appointments are to be unsurpassed in any office structure on the continent, and the Mills Building will remain for many years one of the notable sights of the Pacific Coast. Here, too, are the executive offices of the world-famous Wells, Fargo & Co.'s express and banking institutions, the express building being very attractive. Sacramento, 83 miles from San Francisco, on the Sacra- mento River, is the State capital, and has the immense Pacific- Railroad shops, besides manufactories of pottery, flour, furni- ture, and woolens. It is the centre of a very productive fruit- region, and ships more green fruit than all the rest of the State. Oakland, seven miles from San Francisco, across the bay, is a beautiful suburban city, embowered in flowers and semi-tropi- cal fruit-trees, free from the coast fogs, and sheltered by the Contra-Costa hills. Near it is Berkeley, the seat of the Univer- sity of California. SAN FRANCISCO: THE 0. O. MILLS BUILDINQ. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 97 SAN FRANCISCO : WELLS, FARGO The chief cities of northern California are Peta- luma, Santa Rosa, and Napa, in the wine-producing valleys of the Coast Range ; Grass Valley and Nevada City, in the foot-hills, with profitable gold-mines ; Marysville, the metropolis of the Yuba country, once prolific of gold, and now of fruit ; and Eureka, export- ing lumber to the ports of the Pacific. Stockton is a famous wheat-market, with warehousing capacity of 100,000 tons. Here are electric cars, many mills, and a costly granite court-house. San Jose, 47 miles south of San Francisco, is an attractive modern city, with large parks, broad streets, seven newspapers, many factories, and a valuation of $12,000,000. Santa Barbara, 288 miles from San Francisco, is a famous watering-place, overlooking the Pacific, under the lee of the stately Santa- Ynez Mountains. The mission, founded in 1782, is still a Franciscan monastery. Immense vultures, or condors, with a spread of wings of twelve feet, haunt the Santa- Ynez. In this same region is Camulos, the scene of Rainona. Los Angeles, with its network of railroads and motor-roads, eleven banks and six parks, iron-works and other factories, is 16 miles inland. There are water-works, electric lights, and costly public buildings. The metropolis of Southern California was founded by twelve Spanish soldiers, who named it El Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles, the Town of the Queen of the Angels. The mild and de- lightful climate of this valley has made it a san- itarium for thousands of Eastern people, whose pleasant homes are fast filling the region. The San-Gabriel Valley, 40 by ten miles in area, lies along the base of the Sierra Madre, and is occupied by ranches and villages, the chief of which is Pasadena, buried in orange-groves and rose-thickets, palms and pepper-trees, nine miles from Los Angeles and 25 miles from the Pacific. The wonderfully equable cli- mate of this locality, and the magnificent scenery of the Sierra, have made it one of the foremost winter-resorts of the world, with great hotels and handsome villas. In midwinter rich flowers and fruits fill the gardens, from whose fragrant depths wild snow-storms maybe seen whirling over the Sierra peaks. San Diego is 480 miles southeast of San Francisco, and within four leagues of the Mexican frontier. From 4,000 inhabitants in 1885 it rose to 30,000 in 1S87, with all the modern metropolitan conveniences. The noble harbor is the seat of a large ocean commerce. The climate is remarkably equable, and thousands of pleasure-tourists come here, and to the beautiful trans-harbor suburb of Coronado Beach, whose hotel cost $1,200,000. Farther up the harbor National City overlooks the sea, with the villa-suburb of Chula Vista on the high red mesa beyond. San Diego is the oldest city in Cali- fornia, and the ruins of Father Juni- pero's mission of 1769 are still pre- served near the Mexican suburb. A few miles back, at the mouth of a canon, stands the famous Sweet- >iCISCO ; GOLDEN-GATE PARK. 5,8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. water Dam, one of the largest in the world, with a curving wall of masonry 90 feet high and 46 feet thick at the base. The magnificent entrance to San-Diego Bay, the Silver Gate, leads into a safe and capacious harbor. Railroads. — In 1856 the Sacramento- Valley Railroad began its works, from Sacramento to Folsom. It had 23 miles in i860. The second road built was from San Francisco, and began running in 1863, and reached the State line in January, 1868, and Ogden in May, 1869. This triumph of modern engineering crosses the vSierra 7,042 feet above the sea. The Cen- tral Pacific is 274 miles long, from Oakland to the State line ; and 872 miles to Ogden, where it meets the Union Pacific. Its Oregon Branch runs from Rosewell up the Sacra- mento Valley, by Marysville, Chico, and Tehama to the Oregon line (296 miles), and then land. Another line follows the to Tehama, loi miles. South- single track runs from Lathrop, outlet to the raisin-country, in effect controls the lines from ing Texas, New Mexico and SAN FRANCISCO : THE PROPOSED NEW CITY HALL. down the Umpqua and Willamette valleys to Po: t- western side of the Great Valley from Woodland ward for 146 miles up the San-Joaquin Valley a near Stockton, to Goshen, near Visalia, giving an The Southern- Pacific Railroad Company now New Orleans to the Columbia River. After cross- Arizona, the line enters California at Yuma, and swings down along the San-Bernardino Moun- tains, to Los Angeles, Santa Monica and Santa Barbara. By its lines down the San-Joaquin Valley this route is prolonged to San Francisco and Oregon. The rails cross the Tahichipi Pass, where the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range meet in a tangle of peaks, by one of the most famous and dexterous pieces of engineering in the world. Another section of the Southern Pacific runs from San Francisco to San Jose, Santa Cruz and Monterey, and then up the long Salinas Valley, amid the fastnesses of the Coast Range. The California Southern Railroad connects National City and San Diego with Oceanside, San Bernardino and Barstow, a line of 211 miles of track. The Atlantic & Pacific Railroad crosses the Colorado River at the Needles, and meets the Southern at Barstow, and the Southern Pacific at Mojave. This is the famous Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe route, practically beginning at Chicago, and traversing the great southwestern section of the Republic. The Carson & Colorado narrow-gauge line comes down out of Nevada, in the tremend- ous volcanic and silver-bearing gorge between the Sierra Nevada and the Inyo Range, and stops at Keeler, on Owen's Lake. The lovely and serene valleys north of San Francisco are traversed by several railways, with a single strand flying far north to Ukiah. Insurance. — The rapid development of property necessitated the forming of a local insurance interest ; and in 1862 a num- ber of San-Francisco gentlemen filed incorporation papers for an insurance company, which was organized during the follow- ing year. It took the name of the Fireman's Fund Insurance Company, designing to give a part of its profits to the charity fund of the local fire department. The Chicago fire inflicted on the company a loss of over $500,000 ; the Boston fire $200,- 000; and the Virginia-City fire, $164,000. All these disasters were promptly met ; and the capital of the company has ad- vanced from $200,000 to $1,000,000, with assets of $2,500,000. For the past 1 5 years this solid corporation has never skipped a dividend, and its name is favorably known in every city of the East, where it is represented by many active agents. 'M\ \l SAN FRANC SCO FIREMAN S FUND INSURANCE CO THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS HARBOR, AND THE GOLDEN GATE. Finance.— The commercial banks of California have deposits amounting to $42,000,- 000; the savings banks hold $100,000,000. The State and its chief city, San Francisco, are practically out of debt. The Pacific Bank of San Francisco is the oldest chariered commercial bank on the Pacific Coast, andhasa capitaland reserve of $1,800,000, and resources of above$5, 000, 000. Within 25 years it has paid to its stockholders $1,500,000 in dividends; and its stock is held at $180 a share. The business transacted by this institution exceeds $225,000,000 a year, and is constantly growing in volume. The bank was founded by a number of con- servative capitalists, in 1863, during the period of wild speculation in mining stocks, and arrested attention immediately by refusing mining stock as collateral, and avoiding dealing with brokers and speculators in these stocks. Adhering to this brave policy, the corpora- tion has advanced slowly but steadily, first under the leadership of Gov. Peter H. Burnett (from 1863 to 1880), and ever since under the presidency of Dr. R. H. McDonald, who is also famous as an enthusiastic worker in the temperance cause. The extraordinary growth of California has resulted in the natural development of a State of great resources, aided very materially by the influx of well-to-do immigrants and investors from all over the United States. San Francisco is the great me- tropolis and financial centre of the Pacific Coast, and has developed an important line of business in the way (if real estate. The leader in this strong department of Pacific-Coast commercial affairs is the representative firm uf Easton, Eldridge & Co., the lai^gest real-estate house on the Coast and the peer of representative houses in this line of business in the world. Their operations are in- cluded in the buying and selling of land, placing of 6AN FRANCISCO : PACIFIC BANK. Capital for purchases or for loan, and subdividing of par- KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SAN FRANCISCO: EASTON, ELDRIDGE &. CO. ccls of property throughout the State (and in this department they have been identified with the leading colonization projects of the Pa- cific Coast). In the excursion department special trains are run to different points, that new-comers may view California at a mod- crate rate for transportation. The archives of the firm, which date baCk to the incorporation of the city, are open to inspectors. The management is Wendell Easton, President ; George W. Frink, Vice-President ; F. B. Wilde, Secretary ; and the Anglo-California Bank of San Francisco, Treasurer. The firm has its principal offices ^1 ,_ in San Francisco, with ten departments in as many Californian ,B ilB Hh|I)|P1.I!J i|| cities, and 40 sub-agencies, with 200 employees. This vast and j|f|!,j^ jSJ'ffi)ltartl|l complicated business is conducted with a thorough system, and has itpj tt'^ achieved results of astonishing magnitude and success. Nowhere else have so many extensive- colonies been successfully planned and started as in California, much of whose prosperity is due to the scientific skill with which its settlements have been established. Among the interesting developments of Pacific-Coast industry connected with the sea is the plant of the Tubbs Cordage Company, covering sixteen acres in the Potrero Nuevo district of San Francisco. This business began away back in 1S58, when Alfred L. and Iliram Tubbs united their energies for its upbuilding. The local demand for many years was largely supplied from these rope-walks, the first established on the coast, and equipped for the manufacture of all kinds of cordagr, :rsrti from the hemp of Manila, Sisal and New "^"^ Zealand. In the Tubb works 200 men and , _ boys are engaged, aided by ingenious hemp- spinning and other machines, whose patents are owned or controlled by the company. The Tubbs family are among the foremost representatives of the successful and conser- vative early settlers of California, and aie identified with many of its leading social and \ FrtAncisro tubbs cordage go commercial interests. Their industrial enterprise has been continuously successful. One of the great silk-mills of Belding Bros. & Co. has been established at San Fran- cisco, and controls a large trade on the Pacific Coast. San Bernardino is the capital of the largest county in the United States, much of whose area belongs to the hopeless Mohave Desert. The valley of 1,600 square miles near the shire-town brings forth abundantly of wine, grapes and oranges. Indio, below the sea-level, is celebrated for the astonishing cures of pulmonary troubles, wrought by its dry, pure air. The most recent development of settlement in California has taken place in the counties of Tulare and Fresno, in the southern part of the Great Valley, where ah enormous product of raisins is already being harvested. The United-States Census Bulletin of 1890 on Viticul- ture, estimates that tlic yearly California raisin-crop of five years hence will reach from 8,000,000 to 10,000,000 boxes (of 20 pounds each). Tulare City, the metropolis of these two counties, stands on the Kaweah Delta, between the foot-hills and Tulare Lake, about midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. The extensive irrigation-canals of Tulare and Fresno, and of the neighboring Kern County, are re- deeming vast areas of the richest soil, in an absolutely frostless climate. The development of this domain adds greatly to the capacity of California for bringing forth the pleasant fruits of the earth. SAN FRANCISCO: BELDING SILK FACTORY. " Colorado, rare Colo- rado! Yonder she rests; her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky Moun- tains, her feet in the brown grass, the bound- less plains for a play- ground; she is set on a hill before the world, and the air is very clear, so that all may see her well." — Joaquin Miller. The first American to enter Colorado was Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, U. S. A., who led a military exploring party here in 1806, soon after the Government had purchased Louisiana and an indefinite western region from France. He was captured by Spanish troops and taken to Chihuahua. Pike's Peak, for many decades the beacon of western civilization, will forever perpetu- ate his memory; and Long's Peak similarly honors Maj. S. H. Long, who explored parts of Colorado in 1820. About the year 1840 Mexico made a grant of a vast area of land in the Las-Animas region, to Cols. Vigil and St. Vrain ; and a little later Bent established a trading-post on the Arkansas River. In 1844 Fremont explored North, Middle and South Parks, which were afterwards visited by a few French fur-traders. Colorado west of the Continental Divide belonged to Mexico, and was ceded to the United States in 1848, and became part of the new Territory of Utah. Colo- rado east of the Divide lay in the huge province of Louisiana, a part of New France, ceded to Spain in 1763, restored to France in 1801, and sold to the United States in 1S03. From then until 181 2 it lay in Louisi- ana Territory ; after that in Missouri Territory ; and from 1854 in Nebraska and Kansas Territories. The region south of the Arkansas River belonged to the Republic of Texas from its foundation until it became merged in the United States, when part of it was annexed to New Mexico, and part to Kansas. STATISTICS. Settled at Conejos. Settled in 1840 Founded by Mexicans. Admitted to the U. S., Population in iSbo, .... 34,277 In 1870, 39,864 In 1 880 194,327 White, 191,126 Colored, 3,20i American-born, 154.537 Foreign-born, 39, 790 Males, 129,131 Females, 65,196 In 1890 (census), 412,1 Population to the square mile (1880) 1.9 Voting Population, .... Vote for Harrison (1888), . 50,774 Vote for Cleveland (1888), . 37,567 State Debt Assessed Valuation of Property (1890), . . . $189,000,000 Banks, . . Deposits Savings Banks, Deposits, Area (square miles), . . . U. S. Representatives (1893), Militia (Disciplined), . . Coimties, Post-offices, Railroads (miles), .... Capital, Gross Yearly Earnings, . . Manufactures (3'early, 1880), $14,260,159 Operati\'es 5,o74 Yearly Wages, . . . $2,314,527 Farm Land (acres, in 18S0), . 1,126,585 Farm-Land Values, . $25,109,223 Farm Products (yearly), . $5,000,000 Colleges and Professional Schools, School -Population, School- At tendance, Newspapers, . . Latitude, 37°' to 41° N Longitude, .... 102" to 109° W. Temperature, .... — 37" to 105° Mean Temperature (Denver), 48° TEN CHTEF I'LACES AND THEIR POPU- LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) Denver 106,713 Pueblo 24,5^8 Leadville, 10,384 103,925 682 4,291 85,824 35, S67 27( Colorado Springs Trinidad, . . . Highlands (town). Aspen Boulder, . . . Bessemer (town). Canon City, . . 11,140 5.523 5,161 5,108 3,330 3.317 2,825 A'LVG'S HAND BOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. COLORADO SPRINGS, AND PIKE'S PEAK. As early as 1852, wandering Cherokees discov- ered gold near the foot-hills ; but it was not until 185S that W. Green Russell's party of Georgians, and a company from Kansas, began to wash gold from the sands of the South Platte River. In INIay, 1859, John H. Gregory discovered gold at Black Hawk. When the news of these treasures of the mountains reached the East, a vast and tumultuous migration began across the untrodden plains, and the serene and lonely Pike's Peak became the magnet of thousands of brave adventurers. In 1861, in order to make up the new Territory of Colorado, nearly 70,000,000 acres were taken from Utah, New Mexico, Kansas and Nebraska, the foresight of Gov. Gilpin securing the western slope of the Rocky Mountains. The constitutions drafted in 1859 and 1863 were rejected by the people; but in 1865 they adopted one, and Congress passed a bill admitting the Territory to the Union. President Johnson vetoed this document, and for eleven years longer the people remained under a Territorial government. When the late civil war broke out Colorado sent into the National army two regiments of cavalry, a regiment of infantry and a battery, besides raising consider- able forces for home-defence. Threatened by Confederates on one side and Indians on the other, many pioneers returned to the East, and ambitious cities vanished. Sibley's Confed- erate invasion of New Mexico, in 1861, had for its chief object an advance to the Platte Valley and the occupation of the forts as far north as Laramie. Thus the Pacific States would be cut away from the Republic, and the overland routes closed. This deadly peril was averted by the Colorado volunteers, who did not wait for the invaders to reach their country, but advanced into New Mexico, and met and checked the triumph- ant Confederates at La Glorietta (Apache Caiion). After the war a new tide of immigration flowed into the Territory, and developed its resources rapidly and securely. The " ^ peak. Ute Indians, formerly sole lords of the domain, were concentrated upon the W'hite-River, Uncompahgre and Southern Reservations, whence most of them have been removed to U.tah. The name Colorado is the past participle of the Spanish verb, colorar, " to color," with a secondary meaning of "ruddy" or "blushing"; and was originally applied by the Spaniards to the Colorado River, whose water is red in hue, when swollen by heavy rains, from the disintegration of the reddish soils through which it flows. A popular nickname of Colorado is The Centennial State, because it was admitted to the Union in the hun- dredth year after the signing of the Declaration of Independence. It is also called The Silver State. The older title of The Buffalo-Plains State is now meaningless, since the extinc- tion of the bison. The people living here used to be called Pike^s-Peakers. The Arms of Colorado include a shield, with a miner's pick and mallet crossed, and a range of snowy mountains. The motto is NiL Sine NUMINE, Latin words meaning : "Nothing with- out God." The Governors of Colorado have been : Territorial : Wm. Gilpin, 1 86 1 -2 ; John Evans, 1862-5; Alex. Cummings, 1865-7; A. Cameron Hunt, 1867-9; Edward M. McCook, 1S69-73; LONG'S PEAK. Samucl II. Elbert, 1873-4; John L. Routt, THE STATE OE COLORADO. 103 SIERRA BLANCA. 1S74-6; State: J. L. Routt, 1877-9 ; F. W. Pitkin, 1S79-83; Jas. B. Grant, 1883-5 ; Benj. H. Eaton, 1885-7; Alva Adams, 1887-9 ; Job A. Cooper, 1889-91 ; and J. L. Routt, 1891-3. Geography, — Colorado covers an area equal to New Eng- land and Ohio combined. Its three chief divisions are the Plains, the Foot-hills, and the Rocky Mountains. The Great Plains ascend from Kansas to the Foot-hills, a vast open region of low ridges and valleys, and at a general height of 5,000 feet above the sea. Everywhere the face of the country is covered with gorgeous wild flowers ; and modern irrigating processes are converting it into a rich garden of agriculture. The Divide is a ridge 7,500 feet above the sea, running eastward from the Front Range, and separating the Platte and Arkansas waters. The Great Plains were originally treeless, save where belts of cottonwoods and aspens followed the courses of the rivers ; but since the advance of population hitherward, myriads of trees have been planted along the bare uplands. The Foot-hills run north and south, from 30 to 50 miles wide, with a height of from 6,500 to 8,000 feet, diversified and broken in their outlines, and generally abounding in timber and water. They contain many fertile valleys and grazing districts, and are rich in minerals, clays, and building stone. The Rocky Mountains form the Continental Divide, or water-shed, and traverse Colorado from north to south and southwest, with many tributary ranges. This magnificent labyrinth has two-score peaks of above 14,000 feet, and nearly 200 exceed- ing 13,000. For 150 miles north and south, from Gunnison to North Park, the mountain-mass is 120 miles wide, and includes the Front, Park and Saguache Ranges. The Front Range is the eastern line of peaks, visible for scores of miles over the lonely plains toward the Mississippi, and forming a vast and impressive line of mountains, broken by several summits which over-tower the great wall. It is 120 miles long, beginning on the south at the famous Pike's Peak. The Ute, Loveland, Berthoud and Boulder Passes cross at high altitudes. Mounts Evans, Rosalie, and Torrey, and Gray's Peak (14,341 feet) and Long's Peak (14,271), are the signal points of this noble range ; and Mount Audubon, James Peak, the Arrapahoe Peaks and others are hardly less lofty. Pike's Peak (14,147 feet high) for many years gave its name to all Colorado. Its summit is reached by a long car- riage-road, and also by a mountain-railway, built in 1890; and is the seat of a station of the U. -S. Signal Service. The views from this point, and from the oft-ascended Gray's, Long's and other peaks, are of immense extent and amazing grandeur. Across the great elliptical bowls of the parks is the Park Range, running from beyond Hahn's Peak, in the north, south to the Arkansas Valley, and culminating around Mount Lincoln and Quandary Peak, of above 14,000 feet each, and surrounded by twenty other crests exceeding 13,000 feet. The Blue-River Range, twenty miles north, has a line of tremendous peaks, culminating in Mount Powell. The great continental water-shed between the Atlantic and gr^nd canon of the Arkansas. SULTAN MOUNTAIN. I04 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MOUNTAIN OF THE HOLY CROSS. Pacific follows the Front Range south to Gray's Peak, and then bends westward for 20 miles, between Middle Park and South Park, including the Tennessee Pass (10,418 feet high), and then merging into the Saguache Range, the Colorado extension of the Sierra Madre of Mexico. This range has a height of above 13,000 feet for 80 miles, termi- nating on the north at the majestic Mountain of the Holy Cross. It is a vast mass of granite, nearly a score of miles broad. The Saguache is one of the loftiest and most conspicuous of the Rocky- Mountain ranges, and its dominating peaks exceed 14,000 feet in height, rising in bristling groups around passes above 12,000 feet high. On the east is the rugged valley of the Arkansas ; and the Gunnison Valley opens away to the westward. The Mountain of the Holy Cross bears on its side two snow-filled ravines, cutting each other at right angles, and forming a vast cruciform deposit of glittering snow, visible from a great distance. The trappers and explorers of the early days gave its name to this noble mountain. Near Buena Vista rise the three college peaks, Harvard (14,375 feet), Yale (14,263) and Princeton (14,196). Between Holy Cross and Harvard, Mount Mas- sive, Mount Elbert and La-Plata Peak each rise above 14,000 feet ; and Antero, Ouray and other peaks in the south also exceed this height. South of the Saguache, beyond the Marshall Pass, the Conti- nental Divide runs for 75 miles southwest over a plateau, by the Cochetopa Hills, and then rises into the Sierra San Juan, passing southeast to the San-Luis Park, with many peaks above 13,000 /eet high. The Sangre-de-Cristo Range is almost a continuation of the Saguache, from which it is separated only by the Poncho Pass, 9,000 feet high. Its magnificent Sierra Blanca is the loftiest summit in the Rocky Mountains, reaching an altitude of 14,463 feet, in white granite pinnacles amid snow and ice. Beyond the Veta Pass, and continuous with the Sangre-de-Cristo, the Culebra Range descends into New Mexico, ending near Santa Fe. The high Raton Hills run eastward from the Culebra, along the New-Mexican line. A few leagues north a short range pushes out towards the plains, culminating in the majestic cones of the Spanish Peaks, long ago the landmarks for way- farers and caravans on the Santa-Fe trail. Else- where the Greenhorn Range shelters Pueblo ; the Rampart Range runs north from Pike's Peak ; and the Sierra Mojada (or Wet Mountains) runs north- east from the Huerfano River, including the Rosita and Silver-Cliff mining districts. The Uncompahgre Mountains in southwestern Colorado begin at the tremendous volcanic crest of Uncompahgre Peak (14,235 feet), and are prolonged by the Sierra La Plata, to the canons of the Rio Mancos. This wild region has ten summits of above 14,000 feet. The Elk Mountains run south- west 30 miles from the Saguache Range, a vast, confused and contorted volcanic upheaval of strata, with a lofty line of pinnacles ten leagues long. Among the most famous crests are Castlepeak (14,106 feet high), Maroon (14,000), Capitol (13,992), Snowmass (13,961), MIDDLE PARK. FREMONT PASS. THE STATE OF COLORADO. 105 GRAND-RIVER CANON. Whiterock (13,847), Sopris (12,972), and Gothic (12,491). A number of the minini^ towns are at great altitudes among the Rockies. Caribou's elevation is 9,905 feet ; (George- town's, 8,514; Leadville's, 10,247; and the Present-Help Mine (on Mount Lincoln), 14,200. There are at least a dozen villages above the altitude of 10,000 feet, including Alma, Alicante, Fairplay, Kokomo, Mineral City, Montezuma, Montgomery, Summit Mines, Animas Forks, Irwin, Robinson, and Ruby Camp. The parks of Colorado are ancient lake-basins, walled in by stupendous mountain-ranges, and composed of beautiful undulating regions of dells and hillsides, with bright lakes and streams, shadowy woods, and a varied and abundant vegetation of forests, flowers and grasses. They run nearly the whole length of the State, just west of the Front Range, with an average width of 50 miles, and are separated from each other by high mountains. The wildest and least in- habited of these great sierra-girt valleys is North Park, whose 2, 500 square miles of wooded hill-sides and meadows of buffalo-grass and sage-brush lie alongside of the Continental Divide. The North Platte River takes its rise here, amid forests haunted by deer and antelopes, wolves and bears ; and Hows into ^VyominL,^ where part of North Park lies. Southward, across the. narrow and lofty Continental Divide, Middle Park covers 3,000 square miles of pleasant vales and wooded hills, 9,000 feet above the sea, and environed on three sides by magnificent snowy ranges, Long's Peak, Gray's Peak, and their lofty brethren. Middle Park forms Grand County, whose shire-town is on the shore of the deep Grand Lake, amid the frowning defiles of the Front Range. South Park, the most attractive of the series, is a lovely vale 40 miles long, walled in by the Rampart Range on the east and the snowy Park Range on the west, and watered by the silvery streams of the South Platte. This mountain-girt amphitheatre, with its wonderful variety and richness of scenery, is traversed by several railways and dotted with villages, mines and farms. Its average height is 9,000 feet above the sea. The San-Luis Park covers 9,400 square miles, walled in by the Sangre-de-Cristo and Culebra ranges on the east, and on the west by the Sierra San Juan. Here the Rio Grande del Norte lakes its rise, amid noble forests. The settlers arc Mexi- cans and New-Englanders. The northern part is called the Rincon, and has a broad lake and a savanna, fed by a score of mountain-torrents, and surrounded by leagues of peat. This upper and wider section of the park abounds in dead lakes Marshall pass and failing streams, and its sandy soil can be cultivated only under artificial irrigation. The Saguache, Carnero, La Garita and other streams pour their mountain-born waters into the San-Luis and other small lakes without outlets. The valley of the Grand and Gunnison rivers and Roaring Fork received their first •pioneers in 1880, trudging on the rude trail over the Rocky Mountains, and bearing their flour and provisions on their backs. Since then this vast area has developed io6 A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. m .^ ll -4b 1 1% '^'^ ^H 1 |I{11 ^9 ^Mw!^ wlittT oM oHm Ll'vAr '^|Mh 1 ^^^ ^^1 ^^7^ ^ ^IIMAS CANON greatly, having inexhaustible fields of coal, iron, lead, copper and silver, and large areas of rich soil. The rivers of Colorado are unnavigable torrents, flowing down out of the mountains, with flashing cascades and other beauties. Here the Platte, Arkansas, Rio Grande and Colorado are born, and the Repub- lican and Smoky-Hill Forks of the Kansas. On the east the waters are skillfully availed of for the irrigation of the otherwise arid plains. The North Platte gathers its waters from the Con- tinental Divide in North Park. The South Platte is born at Montgomery, on Buckskin Mountain, 11,176 feet high, and crosses the South Park, descending 6,000 feet before reaching Denver. The springs of the Arkansas are in the Tennessee Pass, and for scores of miles it flows like a silver thread at the bottom of a canon over a thousand feet deep, culminating at the Royal Gorge, near Canon City. The Arkansas flows across the Plains southeast for 500 miles in Colorado, receiving the waters of the Greenhorn, Huerfano, Apisha, Purgatory, Cimmaron, Fon- taine-qui-Bouille and fifty other streams. The Purgatory River traverses a wonderful caiion 50 miles long, with walls 800 to 1,000 feet high, amid whose gloomy shadows (if tradition may be believed) an entire Spanish regiment was lost. The Rio Grande del Norte rises in the Sierra San-Juan, and flows east and south through the San-Luis Valley, and into New Mexico. Routt County, in the northwest, is traversed by the \'ampah River for lOO miles, rising in the Park ]\.angc, and at last rushing through the dark \'ampah Canon, into Green River. Grand River llows from Middle Park 350 miles southwest through the weird Plateau country, receiving the Gunnison and Dolores, and then uniting with the Green River to form the Colorado of the West. White River lies between the Yampah and Grand, amid the singular and deeply interesting forma- tions of the City of the Gods and the Cathedral GARDEN OF THE GODS, AND pike's PEAK. Bluffs. The Anlmas, Maucos and other tributaries of the San Juan drain the chaotic mountains of southwestern Colorado into the Colorado River. In this remote region, along the Hovenweep and McElmo, are found the ruined houses and watch-towers of the long-extinct cliff-dwellers, driven ages ago to these holes in the precipice-walls by deadly enemies, Aztecs or Apaches. Some of the ruins are 700 feet long, con- structed of massive blocks of stone, or cut, with vast labor, from the live rock. Much of the finest scenery of the Atlantic slope of Colorado occurs in the wonderful canons which the streams have cut in the sides of the mountains, with perpendicular granite or sandstone walls. Boulder, Cheyenne, Clear-Creek, Grape-Creek and other canons are famous for their remarkable scenery, and the Grand Canon of the Arkansas is even more impressive and wonderful. West of the main range, the streams flow in the bottoms of yet more prodigious canons, with rock-walls half a mile or more high, generally nearly precipitous, and sometimes even overhang- ing their bases. The Black and Grand Canons of the Gunnison, , , . , -.- , , , , , . BU^CK CANON, AND CHIPETA the long gorge 01 the Uncompahgre, and the deep trench m falls. THE STATE OF COLORADO. 107 ROYAL GORGE. which the Rio Dolores flows, are remarkable for their extent and grandeur. High up among the sunlit peaks many crystalline lakes reflect the clear sky and the granite spires above them, and send their bright waters plunging and murmuring dowTi the rugged canons. Near Georgetown is the deep emerald expanse of Green Lake, with Clear Lake above it, and Elk Lake at the edge of the timber-line. Tlie Twin Lakes, 14 miles from Leadville, lie at the base of the lofty Mount Elbert, 9,357 feet above the sea, and their unusual beauty has caused the erection of a settlement of summer-hotels and cottages on the shores. The five Evergreen Lakes mirror the huge sides of Mount Massive ; and the crag-bound Chicago Lakes spread their transparent waters high up near Mount Evans, the upper- most of them being 11,434 feet above the sea, and perpetually frozen. Palmer Lake, on the Divide, midway between Denver and Pueblo (7,238 feet high), has on its shore a pleasant health-resort village and sanitarium. Vast areas of white and yellow pine, hemlock and cedar still remain on the mountains. The abundant scrubby pinons and junipers of the foothills and plateaus are useful only as fuel. The ridges and mountains are covered with noble evergreen trees, up to 9,000 feet, and thin and distorted trees for 3,000 feet higher, or up to the timber-line, above which the peaks are bleak rocks, with slight patches of grass and alpine flowers. The wild animals of the highlands include bears, wolves, panthers, wildcats, antelopes, elk, deer, beaver, otter and wild fowl. On the plains millions of prairie-dogs ^^^ dwell, with deer, wolves, hares and other game, yearly dwindling away. The Climate of this great mountain-realm naturally has a wide diversity, from the high summer-heats of the plains to the perpetual snows of the main range. The east winds are damp and cold ; the west winds, though blowing across hun- dreds of leagues of snowy ranges, are warm and dry. As a rule, the nights are cool and (on the Atlantic slope) dewless, even when the days reach 90°. The foot-hills have hot summers, with cool nights, and mild winters, with snow seldom abiding long. The mean tempera- ture at Denver is, in winter, 30.3° ; spring, 48.7°; summer, 69.7°; and autumn, 50.7°. Changes are frequent and sharp, but the dryness of the air mitigates their severity. From November to March snow may come, and thence till the close of summer short rain- showers refresh the country. More than 300 days in each year are either clear or partly clear. From July to October the sky is bright and cloudless, and the air is pure, sweet and exhilarating. "An air more delicious to breathe cannot anywhere be found," says Bayard Taylor. This climate is favorable to health and vigor ; and the pleasant country of the foot-hills is a great and beneficent sanitarium, especially for sufferers from bronchial and pulmonary complaints. These diseases are arrested in the dry highland air ; and many Eastern people now enjoy good health in Colorado who would have died if they had remained in their old homes. It is necessary for most invalids to avoid high altitudes, and remain at the health-resorts below the line of 7,000 feet. The electric air excites the nervous GREEN LAKE. io8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. GLENWOOD SPRINGS. systems of newcomers to a high tension, producing a sort of intoxication of good health, with keen appetite, perfect digestion and sound sleep. The great highland sanitarium of Colorado is endowed very richly with medicated mineral and thermal springs, many of which are provided with hotels and bath-houses. The beautiful and salubrious city of Colorado Springs was founded in 1871, and is 6,000 feet above the sea, and ten miles east of Pike's Peak, with shielding mountain-walls on north, west and southwest, and a sea-like expanse of the plains opening on the east and south. This famous climatic health-resort illustrates its culture by the El-Paso and Colorado-Springs Clubs, the Country Club, the University Club, twelve churches, a choral union, the best of schools, a theatre, and an absolute prohibition of liquor sales. In the vicinity are those wonders of nature, the Cheyenne Canons ; Glen Eyrie, and Blair Athol, with their fantastic and bright-colored rocks ; the Garden of the Gods, with miles of weird and storm-worn pinnacles and towers of red sandstone, some of them above 3,000 feet high, "a symphony in red and yellow ;" and Monument Park, crowded with sculptured rock-figures of great variety. Five miles nearer the moun- tains lies the famous health-resort of Manitou, with its soda, iron, seltzer and sulphur springs (like those of Ems), attracting 100,000 persons a year to the adjacent hotels. The caverns near Manitou contain great halls and corridors, adorned with stalactites ; and the canons and rock-sculptures all around afford continual interest. This sunny cove in the mountains lies at the mouth of the Ute Pass, in a wonderfully stimulating air. Idaho Springs rush from the base of Santa-Fe Mountain, near the head of the beautiful Clear-Creek Canon. There are both hot and cold waters, used in various forms of baths, and the analysis shows ingredients like those of the Carlsbad springs. This locality is much visited by consumptives, who find healing in the medicinal fountains, Caiion City, near the picturesque Grape-Creek Canon and the Royal Gorge of the Arkan- sas, has soda springs and hot springs. The Boulder saline water enjoys a large sale throughout America and Europe. There are valuable springs at Morrison, a fashionable mountain-resort 20 miles from Denver, and near Bear Cafion and the Garden of the Angels. Springdale, ten miles above Boulder, has tonic iron waters. The Haywood and Cottonwood Hot Springs, near Buena Vista, are visited by thousands of health-seekers. In the narrow Wagon-Wheel Gap, where the upper Rio Grande roars down through a palisaded cleft in the mountains, are hot and cold soda and sulphur springs, with a large hotel and bath-houses. The Soda Springs near Leadville are under the shadow of the Saguache Range. Poncho Hot Springs, near Salida, form a group of 55 sources of clear, odorless and tasteless water, with hotels and bath-houses and a great number of visitors. Pagosa Springs, between the Sierra San-Juan and the grassy plains of New Mex- ico, bubble up in a great rocky basin, and supply purga- tive alkaline waters of high medicinal value. They have a temperature of 140°; and the steam from the basin can be seen for miles, in cool weather. Glenwood Springs are ten in number, pouring out every minute 8, 000 gallons of warm water, powerfully medicated, alkaline, saline, sulphurous and chalybeate, some of them PHANTOM CURVE. in hot vaporous caves near the Grand River, and others THE STATE OF COLORADO. WAGON-WHEEL QAP. provided with large bath-houses. Shaw's Magnetic Springs are near Ucl Norte. Trimble's Hot Springs and the Pinkerton Springs are near Durango. Estes Park, 60 miles from Denver, and 4 by 6 miles in area, is a beautiful pleasure-resort of the Colora- ilians, close to Long's Peak. Near the hotel a group of medicinal springs pour forth their healing waters. The Hot Sulphur Springs, six in number, boil out from the base of a cliff at the head of Troublesome Canon, in Middle Park, and are pro- vided with baths. Higher up in the mountains several soda springs pour out their effervescing waters. South Park contains a group of saline and alkaline springs, and also Hartzell's Hot Sulphur Springs. Steamboat Springs, in Routt County, form a group of eighty hot fountains, at the foot of the Park Range. Agriculture has not until lately assumed commanding proportions in Colorado, owing partly to insect pests, aridity of climate, and early and late frosts. The farmers have found out how to check the grasshoppers and other winged devourers. The aridity of the soil has been overcome by artificial irrigation, by whose aid over 3,000,000 acres are now under profitable cultivation, with an area increasing every year. Thirty-five thousand miles of canals and ditches are now in operation, and $10,000,000 has been spent in their construction. One of these canals takes water from the Cache-a-la-Poudre River, and ca,rries it for 54 miles over the dry plains of Larimer and Weld, irrigating 120,000 acres. The canals running from the perennial moun- tain-streams are tapped by smaller lateral ditches leading to the higher slopes of the farms, and minor ditches reach the fields, which are in turn gridironed by plough furrows. When the land needs water, the gates of the laterals are opened and crystal streams flow down the field-ditches, and are admitted into the furrows by taking away a shovelful of earth from each one. In a brief hour the land is refreshed as from a prolonged soaking rain. The amount needed varies from 50 to 75 cubic feet an acre, for the season, costing less than $2 in all. The State is divided into five water divisions, each under a superintendent of irrigation ; and the divisions are sub-divided into water districts, each with a water commissioner. These officials, under the supervision of the State engineer, distribute the waters according to priority of rights. The farm-products even now exceed $12,000,000 a year, and include 3,000,000 bushels of wheat, making a very white and dry flour, 2,000,000 of oats, 1,500,000 of corn, 200,000 of barley, 3,000,000 of potatoes, 400,000 tons of hay, $400,000 worth of dairy products, 500,000 pounds of honey, and all manner of vege- tables, grapes, berries, and hardy fruits. There are half a million apple-trees. Peaches flourish west of the mountains ; and part of the Arkansas Valley is famous for its watermelons and grapes. Alfalfa has become the leading farm-product, and is even crowding out wheat. The crop was 1,000 tons in 1880, 1,000,000 in 1888, and 3,000,000 in 18S9. It is a tenaciously hardy clover, with long tap-roots, and yields three cuttings a year, each of nearly two tons an acre. This enormous crop is all kept in the State, and fed to the live-stock, being the best of beef-producing foods. cathedral rock. CURRECANTI NEEDLE. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ALPINE PASS Timothy, orchard and bhie grass also produce three to four tons to the acre yearly. Stock-raising has long been a leading industry of Colorado, where domestic animals do not require shelter or feeding in winter, hovvbeit occasionally a severe season kills many range animals. The grasses are nutritious and abundant, and the cattle thrive on the dry natural hay. Latterly, the Great Plains have been occupied by the farmers, and the cattle, restricted to the poorest ranges, are moving elsewhere. Two thirds of the herds are on the farms, where agricul- tural and stock-raising interests are blended, as in the older States, and the animals are more carefully fed and looked after in winter. The quality of the cattle has been greatly improved by importing thoroughbreds and crossing Short Horns and Polled Anguses with the Texan animals. The number of cattle in the State exceeds 1,500,000. Sheep raising employs $5,000,000 capital. The drought of 1S80 and the repeal of the ad-valorem duty on wool gave severe blows to this industry, but the flock-masters still count 2,000,000 sheep, and send 10,000,000 pounds of wool to the Eastern markets yearly. Mining began with the discovery of gold placers, in 1858, near Denver, and enormous profits have since been realized. The Small-Hopes mine paid $3,000,000 in two years; and many others reached an equal productiveness Placer-mining was succeeded in 1870 by hydraulic min ing, and this a few years later by the sulphurets and tellurides. The Ouray and San-Juan mines yield free- milling gold. West of 105° the vast mountains aie banded with veins of silver and lodes of gold, of incalcula ble value. From the rich chlorides of Silver Cliff to the great argentiferous mountains around Silverton, and from the native gold of Boulder to the fine copper of Unaweep, extend the great treasuries of the hills. The bullion production of Colorado has passed $300,000,000. In the five years, 1880-1-2-3-4, it exceeded $100,000,000. The Leadville district in 1878-9-80-I-2, turned out $68,000,000 ; and little Gilpin County has yielded $32,000,000 in gold. Silver-mining was not much heeded during the golden age of Colorado, but now it is the second silver-producing State, and turns out four times as much silver as gold. There are 1,200 stamps, forever hammering away at gold and silver ore, in the mining camps. The Leadville product holds above $12,000,000 a year, mainly in silver, and the smelters and roasters are kept busy with their rich carbonates of lead and silver. Upwards of $60,000,000 in ore is in sight at Lead- ville, and the miners profess to be discouraged "because they have to dig through four feet of solid silver to get down to the gold." The Aspen mines have sent out millions of dollars' worth of ore. The city of Aspen, with its 5,000 inhabitants, five churches, electric lights and brick blocks, nestles in a cup-shaped valley 7,500 feet above the sea. Upwards of $50,000,000 worth of lead and $6,000,000 worth of copper have come from the Colorado hills, almost LOOP NEAR GEORGETOWN. DOME ROOK. THE STATE OF COLORADO. ESTES PARK. entirely from gold and silver bearing ores. The lead exported reaches an average of over a thousand tons a week, mainly from the Leadville region. The iron of Colorado occurs mostly in hematite and magnetite ores, with 60 per cent, of metal, and covers great areas. It is stated by scientific explorers that Gunnison County alone has a supply of iron equal in extent to all that of Pennsylvania. The coal-fields cover 40,000 square miles, the seams averaging about five feet in thick- ness. The 50 working mines employ 5,400 men. The output of coal rose from 8,000 tons in 1869 to 2,400,000 at present. Much of the Colo- rado coal is bituminous, but large areas of pure anthracite have been opened near Glenwood Springs and New Castle. Lignite beds follow the eastern base of the mountains for 200 miles. Petroleum was discovered at Florence, just below the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, in 1882. There are 25 wells in that district, producing 140,000 barrels of illuminants and 160,000 barrels of lubricants. Of late years large quarrying mdustries have arisen in the ridges outside the foot-hills. The Union Pacific Railroad has sandstone quarries at Lyons, and others in and around Stout. The Marble-Glen quarries, near Fort Collins, contain inexhaustible supplies. Sandstones are found in great variety, the white of Manitou, the red and white of Morrison, the pale green of Canon City, the pink and yellow of other localities, and the great quarries of Trinidad. Marble occurs in white, black, pink and variegated colors. Colorado City has an inexhaustible quarry of red sandstone ; Hancock and Pine Creek, gray granite ; Nathrop, lava ; Calumet, dolomite and marble; and Colorado Springs, gypsum, supplying the Rocky-Mountain district with plaster of Paris and cement. Government. — The Colorado State House at Denver is a handsome modern building of Gunnison granite. When completed it will have cost over $1,500,000. The State institutions include the Insane Asy- lum, at Pueblo ; the Institution for the Education of the Mute and the Blind, at Colorado Springs ; the State Reform School, at Golden ; and the Penitentiary, at Canon City. The public schools are of high grade and efficient organization. Nearly $4,000,- 000 are invested in school property ; and the State holds 3,000,000 acres of school- lands, whose sale will afford a great educa- tional fund. The Normal School is at Greeley. The University of Colorado, endowed by Congress, the State and citizens of Boulder, was incorporated in i860, and opened at Boulder in 1877. It has 21 instructors and 31 collegiate students, besides 120 in other departments. The State School of Mines, at Golden, has 46 students. The Agricultural College, at Fort Collins, has 130 students. The Presbyterian College of the Southwest, at Del Norte, and Denver University (Meth- odist) have opened within ten years. Colorado College, at Colorado Springs, dates from 1874. There are small medical schools at Denver and Boulder. The Rocky-Mountain University, of Denver, received incorporation in 1887, and has a successful medical college. The great Jesuit college, at North Denver, occupies a noble building, erected at a cost of $500,000. Wolfe Hall and Jarvis Hall are flourishing Episcopal schools at Denver. The IDAHO SPRINGS. KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THP: UNITED ST A TES. National Government maintains an Indian school at Grand Junction. The chief United- States military post in Colorado is Fort Logan, near Denver. The ancient border strong- hold of Fort Lyon was evacuated in 1S90. Fort Crawford is a garrisoned post near Montrose ; and Fort Lewis, near Durango, guards the Ute reservation. The Railways of Colorado are famous for their bold engineering, and their wonderful achievements in the passage of lofty mountains and unparalleled gorges. They have been built in advance of population, and the rapid growth of the State is in part due to their agency. Eight lines enter from the east ; five go into the mountains ; and one crosses the western border into Utah. The Union Pacific has 1,272 miles in the State. The Bur- lington & Missouri-River Railroad runs from Denver into Nebraska. The Chicago, Rock-Island & Pacific Railroad runs east to Kansas and beyond. The Mis- souri Pacific starts east from Pueblo. The Denver, Texas & Fort-Worth Railroad runs from Denver across the Pan Handle of Texas, and at Fort Worth meets the network of Texan railways. The Denver & Rio-Grande Railroad is peculiarly a Coloradian enterprise, with Denver and Espanola (near Santa Fe) as its termini, and many branches. This line crosses the Veta Pass and the San-Luis Park, turning north to Silverton. It traverses the „ • ^ famous Toltec Gorge, where the line is carried high along the face of a tremendous precipice, with the river foaming far below. Animas Cailon has also been penetrated by its locomotives. The line from Pueblo to Salt Lake-City is one of the most wonderful scenic routes in the world, and trav- erses the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, on rocky shelves far above the whirling waters. Ten miles of this track cost $1,400,000, being one of the most expensive sections of rail- way in the world. The workmen were suspended over the cliffs by ropes, while blasting the rock to get foot-hold. This route crosses the lofty Marshall Pass, with an almost spiral pathway of iron loops ascending through the continental surges of granite and snow ; and traverses the dark canons of the Gunnison and Uncompahgre, and the weird Book Plateaus. The Rio-Grande line crosses the Fremont Pass, 11,540 feet above the sea; the Tennessee Pass, 10,340; and the Marshall Pass, 10,560. Alpine Tunnel, 11,623 feet above the sea, and 1,773 f^^*^ lo"g. is the loftiest railroad construction in North America. The perpetual snow-banks send their waters on one side to the Atlantic, and on the other to the Pacific. The line crosses the Sangre- de-Cristo Range, not far from Sierra Blanca, and on this stupendous ascent the road doubles sharply on itself again and again. DENVER : DENVER CLUB. climbing at the rate of over 216 feet to the mile. The Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe Railroad runs from Denver south to Pueblo, and thence east down the Ar- kansas Valley into Kansas. A southern extension branches off at La Junta, for Mexico and Southern California. The Colorado Midland runs from Colorado Springs over the Ute Pass into South Park, and crosses the Park Range, with superb views of the Saguache and Sangrc-de-Cristo Ranges. It then ascends to Leadville, and arduously climbs the Saguache Range, running for a long distance among the barren rocks above the timber-line. DENVER : HIGH SCHOOL. THE STATE OF COLORADO. "3 BELOW FREMONT PASS. Chief Cities. — Denver was founded in 1858, on the South Platte River, 15 miles east of the mountains, and named for Gov. James W. Denver of Kansas. It slopes toward and views the Rocky Mountains, and is about a mile above the sea, with a rare, dry, clear and sunshiny air, and park-like shadowy streets, lined with fine public buildings. Denver is an important railway junction, and the commercial metropolis and trading centre for a vast area ; and has many factories, the best of artesian well-water, and scientific sewerage. The view from its upper parts includes a superb crescent of purple and white mountains, mmc than 200 miles long, from Pike's Peak, in the south, to beyond Long's Peak, in the north. Leadville, the foremost carbonate mining- camp in the world, stands on the Rocky Moun- tains, nearlj' two miles above the sea-levcl. From 1S59 to 1864 it bore the name of Cali- fornia Gulch, and yielded $1,000,000 a year in gold dust. After this it was nearly abandoned, until 1876, when the great beds of silver carbon- ate were unearthed. Pueblo is one of the chief cities of Colorado, surrounded by leagues of rich farms, with an admirable climate, and but 40 or 50 miles by a down grade from the mountains, which con- tain inexhaustible quantities of coal and minerals. It is "the Pittsburgh of the West," the key of southern Colorado, the meeting point of numerous railways, and humming with steel-works, foundries, lead-works, nail-works and rolling-mills. Glenwood Springs is the supply-point and railway-centre of the Grand River Valley, with iron and coal mines, water-works, electric lights, and two daily papers. It is 5) 200 feet above the sea-level. Among other Colorado towns are Fort Collins and Greeley, on the wheat-growing plains ; Trinidad, in the south, with important iron manufactures ; Golden and Boulder and Cafion City, with their mines, manufactures and schools ; Central, the seat of gold-mines ; and the active mining-camps of the Rocky Mountains, Gunnison, Ouray, Breckenridge, Salida, Sil- verton and others. If the pioneer gold-hunters of a generation ago should revisit the plains of Denver, in their day so lonely and desolate, they would find matter for wonder and amazement in the splendid modern metropolis which has risen here, face to face with the Titantic wall of the Rocky Mountains. Nothing would cause them more surprise than the new Broadway Theatre, a great fire-proof building, admirable in its lines of view and acoustic properties, rich in scenery, and perfect in mechanical arrangements, with a stage of steel and terra cotta, the most comfortable and luxurious of furnishings, and an asbestos curtain. The Hotel Metropole in Denver adjoins the Broadway Theatre and is part of the same great pile of buildings, beautiful in architecture and massive in construction. It is conducted on the European plan, and was opened in 1891, with 130 guest-rooms, and a series of public apart- ments that would do credit to London or Paris. The wig- wams of the old frontier days have vanished forever, with the era of "revolvers and canned fruit " ; and the traveler from the East, West, North and South may rest here at the new Metropole amid all the luxuries of the nineteenth century, and in a hostelry as uninflammable as Pike's Peak. Finance. — The first bank in Colorado was opened in 1862 ; and in 1 865 the First National Bank of Denver came into existence. The Denver Clearing-House Associa- tion contains eleven banks, and its yearly clearings reach Denver: Broadway theatre and metropole hotel. 114 DENVER : FIRST NATIONAL BANK. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. $220,000,000. The First National Bank does the heaviest business of all, and has achieved a remarkable success in build- ing up a general banking business. It is one of the United-States depositories ; and has a combined capital and surplusof $1,000, - 000. The magnificent building of this institution stands in the heart of Denver, and is very thoroughly equipped and appointed, and richly decorated. The safe-deposit vaults underneath are invincible by fire or burglars, and contain great treasures. The First National Bank finds a valuable business in individual and firm accounts, collections, country-bank accounts, and the advancement of the interests of correspondents. Smelting is the greatest mechanical industry of Colorado, whose precious yellow and white metals have passed into the bullion currency of the country to the extent of hundreds of millions of dollars. Denver is one of the foremost manufac- DENVER : OMAHA &. GRANT SMELTING WORKS. turers of the precious metals in the world, and the rivers of gold and silver continuously flowing from her furnaces practically irrigate the commercial channels of the nation. The scientific processes of smelting have made great advances during the last quarter of a century, and their high success has stimulated mining industries in all parts of the country. Upwards of $ I o, 000, 000 are invested in the smelters of Denver. The Omaha & Grant Smelting and Refining Com- pany resulted from a combination of the Omaha Smelting Company, of Omaha and Denver, with the Grant Smelting Company originally founded at Lead- ville in 1878 by ex-Gov. James B. Grant. The works at Denver cover nearly fifty acres and employ 500 men, their 35 immense roasting, calcining and fusing furnaces consuming daily 400 tons of ores, from the Rocky-Mountain and Pacific States and Mexico. The yearly product of these works and of the larger and older furnaces belonging to the same company at Omaha, exceeds $15,000,000 in gold and silver, copper and lead. The capital of the Omaha & Grant is $2,500,000. It is the largest establishment of its kind in the world. Guy C. Barton is its president ; James B. Grant, vice-president ; and W. H. James, superintendent. The Boston & Colorado Smelting Company has extensive works at Argo, near Denver, and is devoted to the smelting of gold, silver and copper ores in reverberatory furnaces, and the application of the Ziervogel process to silver "matte." The company was founded in 1867 by Nathaniel P. Hill, professor of chemistry at Brown University, who came to this region in 1864 to make a report on its mines, for certain eastern capitalists. The works were removed from Black Hawk to Denver in 1879. They have enjoyed a constantly increasing patronage, and their output of the preci- ous metals already exceeds $65,000,000. Mr. Hill has represented Colorado in the U. -S. Senate, with great efficiency, especially in the debates on irrigation, the silver question, deep-water harbors in Texas, the removal of theUte Indians, the wool tariff and the postal telegraph. His introduction of the first successful method of treating refractory ores has been worth scores of millions of dollars to Colorado, and has added greatly to the wealth DENVER KhWiQ) : BosT. & COLO. SMELTING WORKS. of the United States. THE STATE OF COLORADO. 115 DENVER, AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. The Colorado Coal & Iron Company, one of the foremost of the industries of the West, was the outgrowth of the researches of Gen. Wm. J. Palmer, who was one of the first (as well as one of the most careful and thorough) prospectors of Colorado. The company acquired extensive fields of the best coking, steam and domestic coal ; the richest hematite, magnetic and Bessemer iron ores ; valuable oil lands ; and favorably located town-sites and agricultural lands. It also has operated its mines and erected furnaces, rolling-mills and steel-works. Its coke is conceded to be of superior quality. Its steel rails have been found the equal of any, after being very thoroughly tested by various roads ; and its iron pipe, spikes and merchant iron find ready sale. The furnaces, and steel and other mills are located at Pueblo, the second city in Colorado, advantageously situated as a railroad centre, and surrounded by a large area of land admirably adapted to agriculture, and supplied with irrigation by the Bessemer Ditch, now opened, mainly through the efforts of the Colorado Coal & Iron Co. Pueblo, already a large manufacturing centre, is growing in a substantial manner. It has a population of about 35,000, with the usual evidences of modern progress, water-works, electric lights, and electric cars. Its new Opera House, erected from plans of Adler & Sullivan, the architects of the great Chicago Auditorium, is one of the finest struc- tures of this character in the West. The new buildings that have been erected within the past few years give the city a vigorous and flourishing character. The Colorado Coal & Iron Company own large tracts about the city suitable for agricultural or manufacturing pur- poses, and have been instrumental in bringing many of the smelters and other business con- cerns here, by a liberal and wise course in that direction. During the year 1890 the company sold land to the value of over $1,000,000 ; it mined 800,000 tons of coal ; and made 120,000 tons of coke, 42,000 tons of pig iron, and 25,000 tons of steel rails. Its gross earnings, ex- clusive of sales of real estate, were $2,840,000. Its capital is $10,000,000, and its bonded debt is $3,500,000; and its rapidly increasing sinking-fund already reaches $345,000. The mineral development of Colorado has been greatly advanced by this enterprising company. The geological history of the West is concerned mainly with the gradual upheaval of the great continental mountain-range from be- neath the sea. Beginning with the emer- gence of the Sierra Madre from the waste I if waves, this uplifting of the land ad- \ anced northward ; and the Sierra" San |uan of Colorado is probably the most ancient section of firm ground on this side of the Republic. Later, the other ranges slowly appeared above the sea, the Sangre-de-Cristo and Sierra Mojada, and finally the Front Range. For ages PUEDLO : COLORADO COAL 4 IRON CO. ii6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNJ7'ED STATES. PUEBLO : UNION RAILWAY DEPOT. the ocean beat against the steep western de- clivities ; and the more gradual eastern slopes were formed by the deposits washed down from the peaks into the shallow waters on that side. The mountain-walls encircled many lakes of salt water, which finally drained off through' the canons, leaving the broad basins of the parks, for the homes of the coming empire. "Colorado is the flower of a peculiarly western civilization, in which is mingled the best blood of the North and the South, the virile sap of New England and the Carolinas — a truly American State." The growth of Denver in population and in influence has been one of the most remark- able instances of the great Western development. Well-known public men have predicted that the fourth city of the New World will occupy this locality, inside of a century. The first governor of Colorado, William Gilpin, used to say that he came into these remote soli- tudes to "found an empire;" and claimed for the country the distinction of "straddling the axis of the temperate zone." The highlands near Denver, now being occupied by bright suburban villages and public institutions, command on the east a prospect over boundless expanses of prairie, and on the west a sublime panorama of mountains. m^ '^' PUEBLO ; GRAND OPERA HOUSE. "A drive of twelve miles brings us to the Grand Caiion of the Ar- kansas. Disappointment is bitter, and feelings of resentment almost beyond control, as nowhere can the eye discover the cafion. In the immediate fore- ground the pinon growth is rank and dense; just beyond, great bleak ridges of bare, cold rock contrast strongly with the profusion of foliage hiding every thing beneath from sight, while away in the dim dis- tance the snow-crowned peaks of the continental divide are outlined sharp and clear against the solid blue of the morning sky. Though grand beyond anything we have seen, in amazing extent of vision, the mind is so wrapped up in the anticipation of full realization of the gloom, and vastness, and solemn grandeur of the Grand Canon, as to resent almost angrily their ap- parent absence. A half dozen steps from the clump of pinon trees, where the horses have been fastened, and all thoughts of resentment, of disappointment and chagrin vanish, and a cry of absolute terror escapes us. At our very feet is the caiion — another step would hurl us into eternity. Shuddering, we peer down the awful slopes ; fascinated, we steal a little nearer to circumvent a mountain that has rolled into the chasm, and at last the eye reaches down the sharp incline 3,000 feet to the bed of the river, the impetuous Arkansas, 40 to 60 feet in width, yet to us a mere ribbon of molten silver. Though surging madly against its rocky sides, leap- ing wildly over gigantic masses of rock and hoarsely murmuring against its imprisonment within these lofty walls, it finds no avenue of escape. Every portion of these marble bastions is as smooth as if polished, and as stationary as the mighty walls that look down upon them from such fearful height." Turning from this awful gorge to the equally astonishing chasms beyond the Continental Divide, the antiquary finds there the silent and unrevealing vestiges of a lost peo- ple. Over three centuries ago the Spaniards found these same ruins, just as now, the houses hewn from the solid rock of the mesas and CANON ON THE cllffs, and the other architectural constructions concerning whose SAGUACHE. builders and occupants even tradition is silent. H15T0R Y. The little Commonwealth of Connecticut, nestling be- tween New York, Massa- chusetts and Rhode Island, with Long -Island Sound and a glimpse of the open sea on the south, holds a proud place among the American States, by reason of the gen- eral high cultivation of her people, and the wonderful in- genuity of her inventors and mechanics. This rich and happy Christian community has risen in a land once drenched with savage blood, and its peaceful industrial villages have replaced the wigwams of warring red men. The Indians of pre-historic Connecticut numbered fewer than 20,0(X). All the Connecticut tribes were tributaries of the warlike Mohawks, of New York, whose envoys made yearly tours through their domains, collecting tribute and promulgating the edicts of the Five Nations. About the year 1600 a clan of the New- York Mohicans cut their way through these vassal villages, and settled near the Mystic River, whence they waged almost perpetual warfare upon the Narragan- setts, and ground down the local tribes. This was the cele- brated Pequot tribe, numbering 700 brave warriors, under the lead of the Sachem Sassacus. The Dutch purchased the land from the lawful Pequot authorities, and the Massa- chusetts colonists also secured from Sassacus permission to trade and settle here. Sir Harry Vane sent Endicott to fight the Pequots, with little result ; and in 1637 Con- necticut despatched Capt. John Mason against them, with ninety Englishmen, aided by Uncas and 70 In- dians. In a long battle near Groton, the tribal power was broken, and 500 of the savages lost their lives. A remnant of the Mohegan tribe still holds a reservation on Massapeag Mountain (or Mohegan Hill), below Norwich, overlooking the Thames, where every Sep- tember they have a festival, in a wigwam of forest-boughs, set off with succotash, yokeag, baked quahaugs and other Indian delicacies. The first European explorer hereabouts w?s STATISTICS. Settled at Windsor. Settled in 1633 Founded by Massachusetts mes. One of the original 13 States. Population, in i860, . . . 460,147 In 1870, 537.454 In 1S80, 622,700 White 610,769 Colored Iii93i American-born, . 492,708 Foreign-born 129,992 Males, 305,782 Females 316,900 In i8qo (census), .... 746,258 population to the square mile, 128.5 Voting Population (1880), . 177,291 Vote for Harrison {1888), . 74,584 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 74,920 Net State Debt (1890), . $1,239,752 Real Property, . . . $244,000,000 Personal Property, . . $105,000,000 Banks, 93 Savmgs Banks 86 Deposits, .... $112,000,000 Area (square miles), . . . 4,990 U. S. Representatives (1893), 4 Militia (Disciplined), . . . 2,857 Counties, . . .... 8 Cities, 12 Towns, 160 Post-offices, 499 Railroads (miles), .... 1,007 Capital, ..... $65,000,000 Gross Yearly Earnings, $2o,ooo,oco Manufactures (yearly), $186,000,000 Operatives 116,000 Farm Land (in acres), . 2,400,000 Farm Population, . . . 44,000 Farm Values, . . . $135,000,000 Farm Products (yearly), $18,000,000 Colleges, 3 Public Schools, .... i,6;o School Children, .... 135,000 Newspapers 182 Temperature — 14° to 100° Mean Temperature (New Haven), 49° TEN CHIKF CITIKS AND THEIR POPL LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) New Haven, 81,298 Harttord, 53,230 Bridgeport, .... . . 48,866 VVaterbury 28,646 Meriden, 21,652 New Britain, 19,007 Norwalk, >7,747 Danbury, 16,552 Norwich, . 16,156 Stamford, 15,700 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STAI'ES. HARTFORD : THE CHARTER OAK. Adriaen Blok, a gallant Hollander, who in 1614 sailed alor^ the coast in the Onrttst (^Restless), and ascended the Connecticut River above the site of Hartford. The Dutch skippers named the Connecticut the Varsche (or Fresh) River. They took posses- sion of the country, by right of discovery ; and in 1623 erected a trading-post, called the House of Hope, at Hartford. The pioneer English settlers were men of the Plymouth colony, who, in 1633, sailed up the Connecticut and established and garri- soned a trading-post at Windsor. Soon afterwards, sundry dis- affected pastors and people of the Massachusetts towns of Dor- chester, Cambridge and Watertown marched overland to Connecticut. Watertown occupied the site of Wethersfield, early in 1635 ; Dorchester settled near the Plymouth fort, at Wind- sor ; and Cambridge colonized Hartford. Meantime, the Earl of Warwick had granted this domain to Viscount Say and Sele, and others; and John Winthrop, Jr., erected a fort at the mouth of the Connecticut, where he beat off a Dutch naval expedition. Another colony, composed largely of Yorkshire Puritans, and led by the Rev. John Davenport and Theoph- ilus Eaton, both of London, reached Boston in 1637. Finding Massachusetts unpromising as a place for settlement, in the following year they founded New Haven. Soon afterwards, a Kentish colony settled at Menunkatuck (Guilford) ; and men of Hertfordshire occupied Wapoweage (Milford). These, with Stamford, Bran- ford, and Southold (Long Island), made up the Com- monwealth of New Haven. The new colony repre- sented extreme ecclesiastical forms and influences ; but after a long fight for existence, it united with the Con- necticut (or Hartford) colony in 1662. Stonington, Enfield, Sufiield and Woodstock were for many years Massachusetts towns. The boundary agreed upon in 1 664 ran north-northwest from Mamaroneck, and crossed the Hlidson at West Point, leaving Newburgh, Pough- keepsie and Kingston in Connecticut. The greater part of Long Island, the natural sea-wall of Connecticut, was ceded to the English by Captain-General Peter Stuy- vesant, in 1650. In 1674 the King of England annexed it to the Province of New York, then pertaining to the Duke of York, to whom he gave also all of Connecticut as far as the river. The latter assignment was successfully resisted by the Connecticut government ; but Long Island passed away forever from its rightful owners. The Connecticut charter, adopted in 1639, was the earliest complete code of civil order written in America, and embodied for the first time the free representative plan which is still paramount in the States and the Republic. By its provisions, the people stood. indepen- dent, and the supreme power was the Commonwealth. The colony received from King Charles II., in 1662, a liberal charter, riving it practical self-government. James II. labored stren- uously to vacate all the New-England charters; and in 1687 Sir Edmund Andros came to Hartford, with sixty soldiers, the Assembly being in session, and demanded the charter of Connecticut. The precious document was laid on the table, in the pres- ence of the Assembly and Andros, when suddenly the lights were extinguished, and Capt. Wadsworth, seizing the charter, cautiously withdrew and secreted it in a hollow tree,- so that the King and his men never got hold of this palladium of liberty. The tree was there- after known and honored as the Charter Oak, and re- REDD.NG : PUTNAM PARK. rained Standing until 1856, when it was blown down. NEW HAVEN : JUDGES' CAVE. THE STATE OF CONNECTTCUT. 119. ■M^ ^ !K^ ^^^S^- '^ K I^S R WEST HARTFORD : NOAH WEBSTER'S BIRTHPLACE. A marble tablet commemorates its site. After the de- thronement of James II., the colonial government contin- ued in its quasi-independent way ; and the charter given by Charles II. remained unaltered until i8l8. This gen- erous document confirmed to Connecticut "the soil from Narragansett Bay on the east to the South Sea on the west," being a belt seventy miles wide across the conti- nent, including parts of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Iowa, Nebraska, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and California. Most of this domain was given up, as interfering with other colonial grants ; and the proceeds of the remainder formed the basis of the present school-tund of the State. The venerable charter of Charles II. is sacredly preserved in the Capitol, in a frame made from the wood of the Charter Oak. The so-called Blue Laws were a libellous production by a hostile writer (the Rev. Samuel Peters), and had no adequate foundation in fact. The early jurisprudence of the colony, though touched by the spirit of the time, was to the full as lenient and humane as that of any other New-England commonwealth, and much kindlier than that of England. The delegates of Connecticut stood among the first to propose in Congress a declaration of independence from England. When the Revolution broke out, Jonathan Trumbull, a warm patriot and level-headed man, held the governorship ; and his advice was so valued by General Washington, who often suggested con- sultation with ' ' Brother Jonathan, " that this familiar nickname came to be representative of American manhood, and ultimately of the Nation itself. Con- necticut troops joined in the capture of Fort Ticoii- deroga, and fired deadly volleys from the rail-fence DU Bunker Hill ; and 4,000 marched to the relief of ISoston, in April, 1775. Of Washington's array of 17,000 men around New York, 9,000 were from Connecticut. In 1777 Gov. Tryon and 2,000 British infantry captured Danbury, but suffered severely in the retreat. Two years later, Tryon and 3,000 British soldiers plundered New Haven, and destroyed Fairfield and Norwalk, losing 300 men. In 1781 Benedict Arnold, the traitor, stormed Fort Griswold, and burned New London. Connecticut sent 31,939 soldiers into the Continental army. Washington, in general orders, praised "the soldier-like and veteran appearance, cleanliness and steadiness of the Connecticut troops." After Connecticut had become fairly peopled, largely by migration east and west from the valley, new swarms went out from the colony, and settled the Hadley and Amherst re- gion in Massachusetts, and great areas of New York and Vermont. The Genesee country of New York, and the Western Reserve of Ohio (anciently called Xeiu Coiiiwcticut), were largely peopled from this State. At the outbreak of the late civil war the militia system of Connecticut was not efficient. But during the conflict the State sent into the army 55,864 volunteers, out of 80,000 voters, organized into twenty-eight reg- iments of infantry, two regiments and three batteries of artillery, and one regiment and one squadron of cavalry. Of these, 1,902 men were killed in battle, and4, 7 19 men died of disease, or were missing. Among the interesting memorials of ancient days, besides the churches and mansions in the gray old towns along the Sound and the Connecticut Valley, are several notable public monuments. Nathan Hale, the patriot spy of the Revolution, is honored by a sharon ; soldiers' monument. MILFORD : STONE BRIDGE. 120 A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. BROOKLYN : PUTNAM STATUE. lofty granite pyramid in South Coventry, bearing his dying words : "I only regret that I have but one life to lose for my country." There is also a statue of Hale in the State-House. A granite obelisk on the heights of Groton commemorates the brave garrison of Fort Griswold, massacred by British troops, after a hard battle, in 1781. In Redding, near the ruined barracks of Putnam's division of the Continental Army, in 1778-79, the State has erected a lofty obelisk, and has reserved the camp-ground as a State park. This is the only remaining cantonment of the armies of the Revolution, and near it stands the venerable Christ Church. The remains of the brave Gen. Israel Putnam lie at Brooklyn, Connecticut, under a monument erected in 1888 by the State, and crowned by an eques- trian statue of the hero. A bronze statue of Capt. John Mason was erected in 1889 on Pequot Hill, near Mystic, where that brave officer broke the power of the Pequot tribe. From this point the view reaches three States, 15 towns, 20 islands, and seven lighthouses. In 1889 Milford erected a memorial stone bridge over her river, guarded at one end by a round tower roofed with Spanish tiles, and bearing below its parapets the names of the founders of the town. There are scores of monuments in commemoration of the soldiers of the late civil war, from the magnificent Arch at Hartford and the lofty shaft on East Rock, New Haven, crowned with a colossal Angel of Peace, and surrounded by bronze statues and reliefs, to the simpler monuments on many a quiet village-green. The Soldiers' Memorial Arch, at Hartford, was de- signed by George Keller, and erected in 1886, at a cost of !|6o,ooo. It stands on the bridge in Bush- nell Park, and is flanked by massive round towers more than 100 feet high, with conical roofs. Above the archway a sculptured frieze of terra-cotta statuary, seven feet high, runs around the entire monument, representing "The Story of the War," and "The Return of the Army." HARTFORD BRIDGE AND ME^ C P AL ARC h The soldiers' monument at Winchester is a tall square tower, crowned statue of Victory ; and Winsted commemorates its heroes by a feudal watch- granite, 63 feet high, with a colossal bronze soldier on the top, holding commemorative of the patriotic heroism of the volunteers. The Name of the State is an Algonquin compound word, Qmiineh- tiikqut, meaning "The Land on a Long Tidal River." The Land of Steady Habits is a pet name given to Connecticut, by reason, peihaps, of the settled customs and sobriety of its people. It is also called The Freestone State, in allusion to a leading product ; and The Nutmeg State, because of the old fable that its travelling traders used to sell nutmegs made of wood to their patrons of the Middle States. The State Seal was given by George Fenwick, Governor of Saybrook, about the year 1644. It bears three vines (Hartford, Windsor and Wethersfield), on a white field, symbolizing the colonies brought over and planted in the wilderness ; and the motto. Qui traiisttdit sustiiut, expresses faith that He who brought over the vines continues to take care of them. The State Governors were: Jonathan Trumbull, 1769- 84; Matthew Griswold, 1784-6; Samuel Huntington, 1786-96; Oliver Wolcott, 1796-7; Jonathan Trumbull, 1797-1809; John Treadwell, 1809-II; Roger Griswold, 1811-12; John Cotton by a bronze tower, of a flag, as NEW HAVEN : SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT, ON EAST ROCK. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. CONNECTICUT RIVER, NEAR HADDAM. Smith, 1S12-17; Oliver Wolcott, 1817-27; Gid- eon Tomlinson, 1827-31 ; John S. Peters, 1831-3; I lenryWaggamanEdwards, 1833-4, 1835-8; Sam- icl Augustus Foot, 1834-5; William Walcott Ells- worth, 1838-42; Chauncey F. Cleveland, 1 842-4; Ivoger Sherman Baldwin, 1844-6; Isaac Toucey, 1S46-7; Clark Bissell, 1 847-9; Joseph Trumbull, 1849-50; Thomas Hart Seymour, 1850-3; C. H. Pond (acting), 1853-4; Henry Button, 1854-5; William Thomas Minor, 1855-7; Alex. H. Holley, 1857-8; William Alfred Buckingham, 1858-66; Joseph Roswell Hawley, 1866-7; James E. English, 1867-9, ^"d 1870-1 ; Marshall Jewell, 1869-70, and 1 87 1-3 ; Charles R. IngersoU, 1873-7 ; Richard D. Hubbard, 1877-9 ; Charles *. Andrews, 1879-81; Hobart B. Bigelow, 1881-3; Thomas M. Waller, 1 883-5 ; Henry B. Harrison, 1885-7; Phineas C. Lounsbury, 1887-9; and Morgan G. Bulkeley, 1889-93. The Topography of the State deals mainly with the valleys of streams emptying into Long-Island Sound. The northern border is 88 miles long ; the southern border, 100 miles ; the eastern boundary, 45 miles ; and the western, 72 miles. The beautiful Connecticut River divides it into two nearly equal parts, the old Pequot country, on the east, with its low hills and broken vales, and thin population ; and the western counties, including three fourths of the inhabitants, and with many prosperous manufacturing places. The chief valley of the east is that of the Thames, a navigable estuary fifteen miles long, entering the Sound at New London. The Connecticut is the largest river of New England, being over 400 miles long. Vessels drawing ten feet reach Middletown, and those drawing eight feet go up as far as Hartford. The chief river of the west is the Housatonic, 1 50 miles long, rising in the Berkshire Hills, and flowing through a picturesque highland region. The Farmington River enters the Connecticut above Hartford, traversing a rich and lovely valley, in a course of singular sinuosity. There is a fine line of hills following the Housatonic River, reaching its chief altitude at Bear Mountain, in Salisbury, 2,354 feet high, and the loftiest peak in Connecticut. Other summits in this beautiful region are Bald Peak (1,966 feet), Mt. Bradford (1,960 feet), Mo- hawk Mountain (1,680), and Ivy Mountain (1,642). Farther east is a continuation of the Green Mountains of Vermont, ending with East Rock and West Rock, abrupt and pic- turesque eminences about 400 feet high, near New Haven, the one crowned by a lofty sol- diers' monument, and the other made sacred by the Judges' Cave, where two of the Regicides found shelter in early colonial days. The Mount-Tom range, of Massachusetts, sinks away in the Blue Hills of Southington. The chief range east of the Connecticut River runs from Lyme northward to Bald Mountain, in Stafford, and thence into Massachusetts, a line of granitic summits, marking the water-shed between the Connecticut and Thames Valleys. Beautiful views may be obtained from Bartlett's Tower, on the lofty hills northwest of Hart- ford ; and others of more reach from the mountains of Norfolk and Salisbury. The Geology of Connecticut is chiefly con- cerned with the ancient Eozoic period, varied by the Post Tertiary terraces of the great valley, and the Triassic sandstone of the New-Haven region. Through the red sandstones of the central counties columnar ridges of trap-rock have broken their way, and show sharp westward sides and gentle slopes to the east. The hematite iron of Kent, Cornwall and Salisbury is of high grade, and many of the weapons used in the Revolution were made therefrom. The copper-mines at East naugatuck river. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. WINSTED : LONG POND, Gran by shut down in 1 760, when two car- goes of ore were lost ; one having been wrecked in the Channel and the other cap- tured by the French. From 1775 to 1827 the sul)terranean shafts of this mine served as the State Prison. The Granby coppers minted in 1737, and the first United-States cents, were coined from metal found here. The red sandstone of Portland, on the Con- necticut River, has been used in immense quantities for building. The quarries employ 800 men. At Canaan and Milford, Roxbury and Washington, marble and limestone are quarried. Bolton and Haddam are famous for mica-slate flagging, used for 80 years for paving, largely in New York and Washington. Elsewhere there are quarries of granite roofing slate, hydraulic lime and porcelain clay. "' The Climate is severe, but healthful, the mean temperature being 48° Fahrenheit. There are practically two seasons, a pleasant summer, lasting from April to November, and a bright, clear and cold winter, with dry and keen northwest winds, keeping the sky serene. The death-rate is between 17 and 18 in a thousand, being lower than that of Europe or Massachusetts. Agriculture was the leading business up to 18 10, when the mechanical development began. There are 30,000 farms, with an average size of 106 acres in 1850; 99 in i860; 93 in 1870, and 80 in 1880. Tobacco has been one of the favorite crops ever since the days of the aborigines, who cultivated large tracts of it. The old-time "shoe-string" tobacco, with its long and narrow leaves, has been superseded by a broader leaf, raised from imported seed. It is very mild, and finds its chief use as wrappers and binders for cigars made from the strong-flavored Havana tobacco. The product rose from 472,000 pounds in 1840 to 14,000,000 pounds in 1880, with a value of $2,000,000. The culture of tobacco is mostly confined to the valleys of the Connecticut and Housa- tonic Rivers. The dairy is the leading branch of agriculture elsewhere. Mixed husbandry everywhere prevails, as the soil and climate are well adapted to a great variety of fruits and vegetables, which find a ready home market. Connecticut abounds in attractive scenery, and holds within its borders many well-known summer-resorts. Among these favorite scenes are the vales of ancient Litchfield ; the land- scape charms of Winsted and its Mad River ; the western ridges of Newtown and New Mil- ford ; Killingly's lovely valley, between the heights of Mashentuck and Breakneck ; the rich Piedmontese scenery of the Salisbury region, abounding in lakes and mountains ; the fertile and enriching intervales of the Connecticut River, overarched by majestic trees ; the fair rural scenes about Woodstock and Pomfret ; and the picturesque wooing of land and water along Long-Island Sound. The southern shore is rich in beauty of scenery, and contains scores of summer-resorts, from Indian Harbor and Greenwich, on the west, by Fairfield and Savin Rock, the Thimble Islands and Saybrook, to New London and Stonington. There are many harbors along this embayed coast, more than enough for the scanty maritime commerce. Among these are Fairfield, Bridgeport, New Haven, Say- brook, Stonington and New London. The last- named is one of the best harbors on the Atlantic coast, deep and capacious, and free from ice. The Government officers of the State are elected for two years. They include the gover- nor, lieutenant-governor, secretary of the State, treasurer and comptroller. The Senate has 24 members, and the House of Representatives new london : Thames bridge. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 123 HARTFORD: N.-Y. i N. -E. RAILROAD BRIDGE. has about 250 members. The United-States Circuit Court holds yearly terms at New Haven and Hartford ; and the United-States District Courts hold two sessions in each of those cities yearly. The State tribunals include the Su- preme Court of Errors, with a chief justice and four associates ; the Superior Court, six judges and the five mentioned above ; five courts of common pleas, and numerous inferior courts and probate courts. The general statutes were revised in 18S8, and form an admirable code of laws for the public welfare. The State Capitol, at Hartford, built of East-Canaan white marble, at a cost of $2,500,- 000, crowns a beautiful hill in Bushnell Park, bought by the city from Trinity College, and given to the State. It is in secular Gothic architecture, designed by Upjohn, and has a length of 300 feet, broken by columns, arches, galleries, arcades, and commemorative sculp- tures and statuary. The noble twelve-sided dome rises to a height of 275 feet, and is crowned by a bronze statue of "The Genius of Connecticut." The Capital is fire-proof. It contains the senate chamber, representatives' hall, Supreme-Court room, and State Library, and the great battle-flag corridor. In Bushnell Park are statues of Gen. Israel Putnam (by J. Q. A. Ward), Ex-Gov. R. D. Hubbard, and Dr. Horace Wells, a discoverer of anoesthesia. Here also stands the Memorial Arch. Within the Capitol are statues of Nathan Hale and William A. Buckingham, the War-Governor of Connecticut. The Militia is under the governor, as commander-in-chief, with seven general staff- officers and aides-de-camp. The State troops, officially entitled the Connecticut National Guard, form a brigade of four regiments of infantry (34 companies), a battery of light artillery, a battalion of colored infantry (three companies), and a small signal corps. The Governor's Guards uiclude the first (Hartford, chartered in I77i)and second (New Haven, 1775) com- panies of Fort Guards, and the first (Hartford, 178S) and second (New Haven, 1S08) com- panies of Horse Guards. The State Arsenal, at Hartford, was built in 181 2, and contains many military relics and curiosities. There is a State armory at New London. The militia goes into camp every year, at Niantic, near Long-Island Sound. Fitch's Soldiers' Home, at Noroton Heights, near the Sound, contains 200 disabled Connecticut veterans of the Seces- sion War. It belongs to the State. Charities and Corrections. — The American Asylum for the Education and Instruc- tion of the Deaf and Dumb was incorporated in 18 16, largely through the efforts of Dr. Thomas H. Gallaudet, and opened in 181 7, at Hartford. It received 23,000 acres of land from Congress, besides large State aid, and now owns property valued at $400,000. Here 2, 500 children have been instructed, 90 per cent, of them being New-Englanders. Prof. Alexander Graham Bell's system of visible speech is taught ; and industrial training is an essential feature. Most of the flourishing schools for deaf-mutes throughout America have 1 been assisted and officered thence. The State General Hospital for the Insane occupies imposing stone buildings on a hill near Middletovvn, over- looking the Connecticut. It accommodates 1,400 patients. The Retreat for the Insane was founded, at Hartford, in 1824, and has above 150 inmates, mainly those who can afford good accommodations. The State Prison, at Wethersfield, near Hartford, dates from 1827, and holds 250 convicts. The buildings are of red sandstone. The Storrs Ag- HARTFORD : DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM. Hcultural School is a State institution (established 124 AV.VG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. upon a farm given by the Storrs family), in the town of Mansfield. The Indus- trial School for Girls, founded in 1870 by private charity, is mainly supported by MiDDLETowN : INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. thc State, and has a group of handsome and commodious buildings, at Middletown. Fifty or more vagrant girls, of from eight to 16 years, are here taught housekeeping and sewing, and farm and garden work. The State Reform School, founded at Meriden, in 1854, has a domain of 195 acres, where bad boys of from ten to 16 years are sent by the courts, and required to work for six and a half hours, and to study for four and a half hours each day ; 400 boys are kept here. The divine cause of charity is well represented in the orphan asylums at Hartford and New Haven ; the hospitals at Hartford, New Haven, Waterbury, Danbury and Bridgeport ; and the State School for Imbeciles, at Lakeville. The National Works in Connecticut include the massive granite fortress of Fort Trumbull, near New London, and the dismantled Forts Hale and Wooster, below New Haven. There are more than a score of lighthouses along the Sound, and several lights on the river. In 1867 the Government secured land for a navy-yard on the Thames, where there is a deep and capacious harbor. This station would command the eastern entrance of Long-Island Sound, "the Mediterranean of the Western Hemisphere." In the long years of peace, since the site was set apart for naval uses, but little has been done for its equip- ment, which awaits the coming of the day of need. Education is supervised by a State Board. The schools have been maintained, partly by taxes ; partly by rate-bills, discontinued in 1S68 ; and partly by the income of funds. Local school-funds were raised a century and a half ago by the land sales and excise on tea, liquors and other luxuries. The State school-fund came from the sale of Western lands, be- longing to Connecticut by her Stuart charter, and disposed of f^r $1,200,000, which has since grown to above $2,000,000, invested in seven-per-cent. land-mortgages. There are 1,400 school-districts, and 400 male and 2, 700 female teachers. The yearly expenditure for the public-schools is $1,800,000. The Connecticut Normal Training School, founded at New Britain, in 1850, has 330 students, and about 60 graduates yearly. Many of the local schools have fine buildings, like that of the Hartford Public High School, a fire-proof structure 236 feet long, with handsome Gothic towers, one of which contains a powerful telescope, equipped by Warner & Swasey. Connecticut furnishes more college students, in proportion to her pop- ulation, than any other State. Yale University was founded in 1701, by the ten chief Congregational ministers, as the Collegiate School of Connecticut; and remained at Killingworth and Saybrook until 1716, when it was moved to New Haven. In I7i8it received the name of its benefactor, Elihu Yale, who was at one time Governor of the East-India Company's settlement at Madras. In 1887, the name of Yale University was authorized by law. There are four depart- ments : Philosophy and the Arts (including the Academic Department, the School of Fine Arts, and the Sheffield Scientific School), Theology, Medicine (181 3), and Law. The University Library contains 150,000 volumes and a vast number of pamphlets ; and there are over 50,000 volumes in the professional and Linonian libraries. The Peabody Mu- MERiDEN : THE STATE REFORM SCHOOL. scum of Natural History, endowed by George IS' HARTFORD : WADSWORTH ATHEN/EUM. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 125 Peabody, in 1866, with $150,000, contains rich and extensive coUec tions, in various interesting hnes of rcseaich TheicaieSogiaduatestu dents, S30 m the academic depart ment, 380 in the sucntihc school 50 students in art, 140 in theolog\, 50 in medicine, and 1 10 in law , 1,500 in all with 63 professois and 0;^7V'/>^^^7A 70 other instructois. The Chittenden Memorial Library, erected in 1888-89, i^ ^'^ imposing Romanesque building of Longmeadow sandstone. Osborn Hall, a recitation-room building, also of 1888-89, i^ ^ Byzantine-Romanesque struc- ture of Stony-Creek granite, and is a most noticeable structure. NEW HAVEN ; CHITTENDEN MEMORIAL LIBRARY. This richly decorated build- ing contrasts strangely with the Puritan sim- plicity of the contiguous older halls. The Art School owns 122 ancient Italian paintings (the Jarves Collection), 54 pictures of the Trum- bull Gallery, 100 modern paintings, and 150 casts and marble sculptures. The University grounds are adorned by statues of Abraham Picrson, the first Rector, or President (1701-7), and Prof. Benjamin Silliman, the eminent phy- sicist. Yalp has exhibited a notable growth for many years, and is one of the four great 126 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW LONDON '. WILLIAMS MEMORIAL INSTITUTE. universities of America. She has given to politics Cal- houn and Evarts, Tilden and Mason ; to literature, Sted- man and Willis, Percival and Pierpont, Fenimore Cooper, Donald G. Mitchell and Theodore Winthrop ; to theol- ogy, Woolsey and Bushnell, Dwight and Hopkins, and Jonathan Edwards; to science, Morse and Whitney, Dana and Silliman; and to lexicography, Webster and Worcester. Trinity College was founded largely by Episcopalians and incorporated in 1823 as Washington College. Bishop T. C. Brownell became the first president; and in 1825 two brownstone buildings were erected. In 1845 the name was changed to Trinity. After a half-century, the campus be- came the site of the new State Capitol ; and the present beautiful buildings, a part of an elaborate plan, in early French secular Gothic architecture, arose on a far-viewing hill in the southwestern part of Hartford, on the edge of a campus of 80 acres. To these have been lately added an Alumni hall and gymnasium, and a science hall, for laboratories. There are ten professors and ten lecturers, and 140 students. They represent 18 States. A noble statue of Bishop Brownell adorns the college lawn. The library contains 32,000 vol- umes ; and there is a valuable museum. Wesleyan University, founded in 1831, is under the control of the Methodist Church. Among its presidents were Wilbur Fisk (1830-39); Stephen Oliu (1842-51); Nathan Bangs, and A. W. Smith. It is in Middletown, __ ^^ upon the avenue which Charles Dickens declared ^^ - ^ ""^ to be the finest rural street that he had ever seen. _.=r __^ -=i_ There are several good buildings and chapter- houses. Since 1S72, women have been admitted. The University has 20 professors and instructors, and 230 students. The value of the plant and endowments of Wesleyan is about ^1,600,000. The library contains 40,000 volumes. The Hartford Theological Seminary was founded in 1833 by the Pastoral Union, as a protest against what was conceived to be the objection- able philosophical tendency of the Yale Divinity School. In 1834 buildings were erected at East Windsor; and in 1865 the institution moved to Hartford, where it occupied the noble Hosmer Hall in 1879. There are 12 instructors and 60 students. The library con- tains 46,000 volumes. A marked extension of the scope and methods of the institution has lately been going forward. The Berkeley Divinity School (Episcopal), at Middletown, was founded in 1850. It has more than 300 graduates. There are six instructors and 30 students. The Williams Memorial Institute is a handsome Romanesque building of pink granite, erected in 1889 on a hill over New London, for the free education of girls. The richly- endowed Norwich Free Academy has 250 students, in efficient classical and general courses, with a normal training-school for girls. The Slater Memorial l^uilding belongs to the Free Academy, and is a handsome structure of brick and brown- stone, with effective towers and porticos. The in- terior is faced with pressed brick and terra cotta, and wainscoted with polished gray marble, and in- cludes a hall seating 1,100 persons, and the Peck j^^^^^^^^^^F '"^^1 Library. The great upper hall contains a mu- seum of 227 casts from the most famous sculp- tures ; an original Rembrandt ; many valuable HARTFORD : TRINITY COLLEGE. modcm French paintings, by Corot, Millet and MIDDLETOWN WESLEYAN UNIVERSITY THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 127 NEW LONDON : THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. others ; a great number of electrotypes of rare Greek coins ; and many hundreds of Braun and Brogi photographs. This admirable teaching col- lection is free to the people, thousands of whom visit it every month. The building was erected and equipped by William A. Slater, as a memorial of his father, John F. Slater, the noble philanthro- pist who gave $1,000,000 for the education of Southern negroes. This great fund is adminis- tered by trustees, and its income reaches and strengthens nearly 50 collegiate and professional schools in the States of the South. There are many good private schools, like Bacon Academy, at Colchester, founded in 1780; the Connecticut Literary Institution, in the lovely old rural hamlet of Sufifield ; the Episcopal Academy of Connecticut, in the valley town of Cheshire ; the famous old Gun- nery, at Washington ; the McLean Seminary, at Simsbury ; and the first-class academies at Hartford, New Haven, Bridgeport, Stamford, and other places. The chief public libraries are those of Bridgeport, 17,000 volumes ; Norwich, 16,000; Waterbury, 38,000; and the great college and reference libraries at New Haven, Hartfoi"d and Middletown. The Wadsworth Athenaeum, at Hartford, is a castellated building of Glastenbury gneiss, containing rich collections of statuary and paintings ; the interesting museum and library of 22,000 volumes, belonging to the Connecticut Historical Society; the Hartford Library, of 35,000 volumes; and the richly endowed Watkinson Library of Reference of 44,000 standard books. A func^ of $400, 000 has just been subscribed, to create out of the different institutions in the Athenaeum Building, a great free public library, art-school, V-- art-gallery, and school of history. The late J. S. Morgan \^ of London, long time a resident of Hartford, gave $100,- 000 towards this object. The State Library contains 12,000 volumes. The Public Library of New London, built in 1889, is a handsome Romanesque edifice of pink granite, with a red tile roof, and arcades covered by groined arches of stone. Books have for many years been an important product. The first press in the colony began its work at New London, in 1709, and another was set up by Thomas Green, at Hartford, in 1764. The first locally printed book was The Sayhrook Platform. The sub- scription-book business, the great feature of Connecticut publishing, was founded by Silas Andrus, at Hartford, more than 60 years ago. Peter Parley's works, Mrs. Stowe's first book, the Cottage Bible, Olney's school-books, Mark Twain's earlier works, Headley's Great Rebellion, and Richardson's Beyond the Mississippi, were published in Connecticut. The most widely-known journal in Connecticut is the Hartford Coitrant, the oldest news- paper in America, having been founded in 1764. Its early files contain discussions of the Stamp Act, the siege of Boston, the hunting of Burgoyne, the ad- ministration of Washington, and similar matters. It is a Republican paper, its present managers having been among the organizers of that party in the State. Its editorial and literary departments are of recog- nized ability, and it has many special features of in- terest, including the best correspondence from New York, Boston, and foreign capitals ; and its news de- partments are maintained with a high degree of effi- ciency. The owners of the Courant are Senator and hartford .- the high school NORWICH FREE ACADEMY : THE SLATER MEMORIAL BUILDING. k j - ' ^'^^Pf^^Bk a ^^1 ' f^^^BMk Iml mkl ^^S oilC|| I^B^t. ^^^ ^■^Ssc: 128 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNIIED S'lATES. HARTFORD : HARTFORD COURANT. General Joseph R. Hawley, Charles Dudley Warner, William H. Goodrich and Charles H. Clark. It has a national reputation, and a wide circulation among intelligent readers. In many old Connecticut families, including those that have moved to other States, it has been taken continuously for the century and a quar- ter which it has been published ; and during its long career it has absorbed more than lOO other journals. The Conrattt\\2.=, a handsome six-story building, facing the post-office, on the his- toric "square." George D. Prentice, afterward of the Loitisville Courier-Journal, was at one time engaged in journalism in Hart- ford as editor of ihe. Review ; and he "discovered" John G. Whittier, and there introduced him to the public. Mr. Whit- tier was Prentice's successor, and lived in Hartford several years. Two of the leading religious papers in America (now published elsewhere) were founded in Hartford — TJie Congregationalist {m 1839) and The Chiirc/unati (in 1865). Connecticut has 34 daily newspapers, 113 weeklies, 21 monthlies, and four quarterlies. Five are in German, and, one in Swedish; six are devoted to religion, one to farming, and three to labor. Science, socialism, prohibition, art and music have their special organs. Maritime Commerce is of but little consequence here, most of it passing to New York. Two hundred and fifty vessels enter and clear yearly in foreign trade, and 4,000 in the coast- wise trade and fisheries. The fishing fleet numbers nearly 300 vessels, with 1,200 sailors, and an annual product of $800,000. It sails from New London and Stonington ; and more than a quarter of the tonnage is in the whaling business. The imports and exports of New Haven are tenfold gi-eater than all the others combined, passing $4,000,000 a year. A profit- able Connecticut industry is the propagation of oysters, in artificial beds along the Sound, east and west of New Haven. The Railroads of Connecticut are 22 in number, with $67,000,000 of stock (of which $19,000,000 is held by 5,500 stockholders in this State); debts amounting to $41,000,000, and permanent investments of $112,000,000. Their net income is $3,000,000 a year. Nearly 700 miles are included in the Consolidated, or New-York, New-Haven & Hartford system. The railways from New York to Boston and the east cross Connecticut and carry a prodigious travel, which is protected by careful State inspection. The railway stations at Hartfordj New Haven, New London, and other cities, are costly and attractive modern structures. The entire coast of Long-Island Sound is followed by a line of railway, passing through Stonington and New London, New Haven and Bridgeport. The Shore-Line trains, from Boston and Providence to New York, traverse this route. A line of magnificent and luxurious steamboats connects Stonington and New York daily, traversing Long-Island Sound, and connecting directly with the railway-trains to and from Boston. The New-York & New-England Railroad, from Boston to Newburgh, runs across interior Connecticut for 132 miles, with branches to Worcester and Springfield, and to New London, connecting daily with steamboats for New York. Trains by this route from Boston or Providence to New York run down to Willimantic, where some of them pass through Middletown, and others through Hartford, in either case reaching New Haven, and thence following the shore. The running time from Boston to New York is six hours ; and these commodious and swift-running trains, with their parlor and dining-cars, form a favorite mode of travel for business men, between the great cities. The line traverses a picturesque region, and gives passing views of many interesting places. The great bridge which carries this line across the Connecticut River WATERBURV AND BHONSON LIBRARY. THE STATE OE CONNECTICUT. 129 HARTFORD : SOLDIERS' MEMORIAL ARCH. at Hartford was erected by the Boston Bridge Works, and is a triumph of engineering. The Central New-England & Western Railroad (closely allied with the New- York & New-England) runs westward from Hartford to the Hudson River, crossing on the great Poughkeepsie Bridge. The north and south lines include the Housatonic, from Bridgeport, on the Sound, to the Berkshire Hills ; the Naugatuck ; the New-Haven & Northampton ; the New- York, New-Haven & Hartford, reaching northward to Springfield, and forming part of the great Springfield line from Boston to New York ; the route following the Connecticut River from Hart- ford to the Sound ; the New-London & Northern, reaching up into Vermont ; and the Norwich & Worcester. The Thames-River Railway bridge, built at New London, in 1888-9, is a great and ingenious steel structure, with a draw-bridge 503 feet long, and containing 1,200 tons of steel. The iron truss-bridge at Warehouse Point, crossing the Con- necticut River, rests on 17 granite piers. It was built at Manchester, England, in 1866. Connecticut has 13,000 miles of wagon-roads, costing $650,000 a year, and fairly kept up. Steamboat lines connect Stonington, New London, New Haven and Bridgeport with New York : and others cross Long-Island Sound, from New London and Hartford to Sag- ic^ Harbor; from Bridgeport to Port Jefferson ; and from New London to Block Island. The Finances of Connecticut are wisely and cautiously administered, owing partly to the even ^t balance of the political parties. The net State debt amounts to $1,240,000 ; and the cities and towns owe about $17,000,000, mainly due to the enormous ex- penses of the Secession War, to railroad subsidies, and local improvements in water-supplies, sewerage-sys- tems, and streets. The yearly expenses of the State are $1,200,000, one third of which goes to the schools and the judiciary, the remainder being used for other public purposes. Chief Cities. — New Haven, with its many manufactures and the great Yale University. lies at the head of a fine salt-water harbor, stretching over an alluvial plain, and overlooked by abrupt and picturesque hills. It is famous for the noble elms which overarch its streets, and has many fine public buildings and churches. Hartford, the capital city, lies along the navigable Connecticut River, aud has great manufacturing interests, numerous converging railways, many handsome churches and public HARTFORD I CHARTER-OAK RACE-TRACK. NORWICH HARBOR AND THE THAMES RIVER. buildings, benevolent institutions, schools and libraries. Here dwell Mrs. Stowe, Mark Twain and Charles Dudley Warner. The city is said to be the richest, for its population, in America ; and has a world-wide fame for its immensely wealthy insurance-companies. 130 ICING'S IIAXDEOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Bridgeport is a railway and steamboat centre, 56 miles east of New York, with a wonderful variety of manufactures, of sewing-machines, corsets, cartridges, and many other articles. It is a handsome city, adorned with pleasant parks, and a magnificent esplanade road look- ing out from Seaside Park over Long-Island Sound. To the westward is tranquil old Fair- field, one of the most refined and charming villages on the Sound. New London looks out from its hill-streets over the openings of the Thames to the aristocratic summer-villas and hotels along the Sound. It has many antique mansions and immemorial elms ; and in the chancel of St. -James Church is buried Samuel Seabury, the first American Episcopal Bishop HARTFORD, THE CAPITAL OF CONNECTICUT. (1784). In summer, steamboats run from New London to Fisher's Island, Watch Hill, Block Island, Shelter Island, Long Island, and other places. This was once a renowned whaling-port, and now manufactures silks and woolens. At Norwich, a beautiful little city at the head-waters of the Thames, is the grave of the great Indian chieftain, Uncas. A simple monument, marking the grave, was dedicated with ceremonies in which Andrew Jackson took part. There is also a memorial stone, marking the spot where Miantonomi was slain by Uncas. Mrs. Lydia Sigourney ; T. Sterry Hunt, the Canadian scientist ; President Oilman, of the Johns-Hopkins University ; President Timothy Dwight (second), of Yale, and Donald G. Mitchell were natives of Norwich. Ston- ington, perched on its narrow rocky point at the east end of the Sound, remembers August, 1814, when the Rainilies. Padolns, and other British war-ships, bombarded it for three days. At the other end of the State are Stamford and Greenwich, now practically suburbs of New York, with the beauty of architecture, lawns and flowers added to their natural seaside • charms. Among the inland towns are Waterbury, on the Naugatuck, with handsome churches and great factories ; New Britain, a rich industrial hive among the hills ; Middle- town, beautifully placed on a great bend in the Connecticut ; Winsted, harnessing Mad River into its iron and steel works ; and Meriden, near a picturesque range of hills, and containing the great Britannia works among its many large and varied industries. Insurance has found its best and fullest development in Hartford, whose corporations are famous all over the world for their enterprise, integ- rity and permanent merit. So vast are the operations of these companies, that they carry risks exceeding $1,- 000,000,000. In 1794 Sanford & Wadsworth insured William Imlay's house, in Hartford, " against Fire, and all dangers of Fire," in the name (assumed and un- official) of the Hartford Fire Insurance Company. This ■was the first fire-insurance policy known in the United States. Daniel Wadsworth and others, in 1810, organized the actual Hartford Fire Insurance Company, with $150,000 capital (one tenth paid in), and no expenses save ^yx) a year to the secretary, and $30 for fire-wood. hartford : hartford fire-insurance co. THE STATE OE CONNECTICUT. 131 HARTFORD . CONNECTICUT MUTUAL LIFE-INSURANCE COMPANY. In 1835 the great fire in New York caused a loss to the company of $60,000 (an immense sum in those days) ; but Eliphalct Terry, its president from 1835 to 1849, pledged his own prop- erty to the Hartford Bank, and hastened in a sleigh to New York, where he met all the obligations of the company, and established its reputation on a high plane, which has been hon- orably maintained to the present time, when it ranks among the foremost insurance companies of the age. Its loss of $1,968,000 in the great Chicago fire was bravely met, but ne- cessitated the paying in of $500,000 new capital. The capital now is $1,250,000, with assets.of not far from $6,000,000. The company erected the handsome granite building which is now its home, in 1870, during the presidency of George L. Chase (which has lasted since 1S67). The business inaugurated by the Hartford Fire-insurance Company has developed in the city of its origin more energetically than anywhere else. Hart- ford leads the United States in fire-insurance, and is most widely known from this feature of its activity. There are six local companies, with assets of above $25,000,000, and an aggregate capital of $10,000,000; and they pay $5,000,000 yearly in losses. Besides these six, there are only nine other companies in America with capitals of as much as $1,000,000 each. Among all these gigantic corporations, none enjoys a greater confidence than the pioneer company, the venerable and conservative, yet always enterprising, " Hartford Fire." One of the most beautiful buildings in Hartford — a six-story Renaissance edifice of granite, erected in 1870, at the corner of Main and Pearl Streets— belongs to the Connec- ticut Mutual Life-insurance Company, which was chartered in 1846, and became the foun- dation of the vast life-insurance business which distinguishes Hartford in the nation. Starting Avith a guarantee fund of only $50,000, it won an immediate and brilliant success, and has gone forward with steadily increasing strength. In 44 years, up to 1890, the company received over $220,000,000, and paid out to policy-holders $140,000,000, with $25,000,000 for expenses and taxes, leaving a balance of $56,000,000 as net assets. This colossal trust- fund is invested safely and productively, and its profits wholly inure to the benefit of the insured, the surplus being returned during each year to those who have contributed towards it, so that each policy-holder gets his insurance at its actual cost. It stands among the fore- most corporations in the world, not only of life-insurance, but of any kind. The predom- inating aim of the solid Connecticut Mutual Life, under the competent presidency of Jacob L. Greene, is to furnish the greatest amount of absolute protection to the families of the insured, and to furnish this protection at the lowest possible cost. The Connecticut Mutual is in fact a pure and simple life-insurance company, conducted unswervingly in the best interests of its thousands of policy-holders. Another interesting department of Hartford insurance is devoted to accidents. About 20 years ago, after a series of terrible railway ac- cidents, the Railway Passengers' Assurance Com- pany of England came into being. James G. Bat- terson, returning from Italy to Hartford, studied into this scheme while in England, and in 1863, organized, at Hartford, The Travelers Insurance Company, of which he is still the president, its office being a carpetless upstairs room with two chairs and a legless pine desk, and the present sec- retary, Rodney Dennis, being also the only clerk - and office-bov. The company now occupies the HARTFORD ; TRAVELERS INSURANCE COMPANY. ^UU OniLC UU^. X 11^. ^ ] r HARTFORD : HARTFORD STEAM- BOILER INSURANCE COMPANY. 132 A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. fine old Ellsworth mansion, on the quiet and embowered Prospect Street. The life-department of the Travelers is virtually an in- dividual life-insurance company, and one of the foremost. Its business is purely on the stock plan — a low cash rate, without dividends to policy-holders. The record of the Travelers stands absolutely untarnished from its foundation. The company has assets of $13,000,000, and a surplus exceeding $3,500,000. It has paid nearly |)i3,ooo,ooo to victims of accidents, and $5,000,- 000 to policy-holders in the life-department. The Travelers Record is a bright little monthly paper issued by the company, bristling with facts and arguments in favor of casualty insurance. This is the largest and most successful accident and purely stock life-insurance company in the world. As in all other successful undertakings, the work of the "Travelers" has found many competitors ; but in keeping with its age and pioneership, the old Travelers of Hartford remains unapproached in its supremacy in this broad field of effort. The Hartford Steam-Boiler Inspection & Insurance Company was evoked in the old Polytechnic Club, where Tyndall's suggestions and Sir William Fairbairn's experiments as to the explosion of boilers were exhaustively discussed. The company was chartered and began operations in 1866, and during a quarter of a century has successfully labored to create a demand for its protective agencies. It insures more than 30,000 boilers, and in case of explosion or rupture, makes good all loss to property, with indemnity for loss of life or personal injury, to an amount not exceeding the sum insured. The work of the company is mainly directed to the cure of defects and the prevention of disaster, and it has a hundred skilled and trained inspectors, who at stated times thoroughly examine the boilers under its care. Incipient defects are hunted out and remedied, and thus many lives and millions of dollars' worth of property have been saved yearly. It is not only the pioneer company in its line, being many years older than any other, but it is also far the strongest and most suc- cessful. Since 1867 it has been under the presidency of J. M. Allen, to whom is due the chief credit for the formulation and development of boiler inspection and boiler insurance, and its general introduction. Manufactures. — Connecticut, as it now is, is a creation of this century, based in large degree on the ingenuity of her inventors and the individual ability of her workmen. The famous Connecticut Joint-Stock Act of 1837, framed by Theodore Hinsdale, is the basis of modern manufacturing corporations, and has been copied by nearly every State, and by the English Limited Liability Act of 1855. The principle thus originated and defined in Con- necticut has been of vast and incalculable importance in the industrial development of the modern world. The last report of the Connecticut Bureau of Labor Statistics enumerates 90 large estab- lishments, in 20 lines of industry, employing 28,256 persons, paying wages amounting yearly to $12,500,000, and manufacturing upwards of $45,000,000 worth of goods, with a net profit of $3,800,000. The laws limit the work of women and children to 60 hours a week, and compel chil- dren under 13 years of age to attend school. The first of these statutes is obeyed, and the other suffers from evasion. Since i860 the wages of men have been advanced 43 per cent. ; and those of women 57 percent. Industrial warfare breaks out from time to time, resulting from the convic- tion of the M'orkmen that their share and oppor- tunities are being diminished. An acute English J^ £^. Tb^T^A: fi7 Lyjiffij HARTFORD ; HARTFORD-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 133 i^^ /Hi 1 "^ K\\ I 1 m iv'l 1 ^^^m 9 ^^^3 ^r-- BRIDGEPORT : WHARF SCENE. observer thus pictures the ingenious local me- chanics : "The work-shops of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and especially of Connecti- cut, are full of such men. Usually tall, thin, reflective and taciturn, but clever, and above all things free — the equals, although mechanics, of the capitalists upon whose ready alliance they can count — they are an element of incalculable value to American industry." With respect to certain alleged local indus- tries, it is well said, in Reclus's A BinVs-Eyc Viezv of the World: " The manufactures of wooden nutmegs, wooden oats, and basswood hams are located precisely where they always were — in the imaginations of lumbering wits." Among the products of local industries are the axes of CoUinsville, the clocks of Bristol and Thomaston, the powder of Hazardville, the knives of Northfield, the carpets of Thomp- sonville, the plush and silver of Seymour, the bank-note paper of Manchester, the farming implements of Winsted and Higganum, and the bells of Chatham. This land of peace has furnished armaments to contending nations, bringing the raw materials from distant points, and by the ingenuity of her mechanics fashioning them into weapons of terribly destructive power. The Gatling guns, Colt's fire arms, and the Hotch- kiss multicharge guns come from Hartford ; the Winchester rifles, from New Haven ; the guns, fromMeriden ; millions of cartridges from Bridgeport ; and pikes and from CoUinsville. The works at Hazardville made $1,250,000 worth of powder for Great Britain during the Russian War. Samuel Colt, the son of a Hartford manufacturer, while yet a lad, beguiled the tedium of a voyage to Calcutta (in 1830) by in- venting and making a model of a revolver, which he patented in Europe and America in 1835, and began to manufacture in 1S36. These weapons were first used in the Seminole War, and then in the Mexican War. In 1848, Colt built a factory in Hartford; and in 1855 finished the great dike around the South Meadow, and the magnificent Colt's Armory, where, during the Secession War, HARTFORD: ALLYN MBMORiAL. as many as 136,000 revolvers and 50,000 muskets were turned out in a single year. All of the famous Gatling guns have been made by Colt's Company. Colt's Patent Fire-Arms Manufacturing Company was incorporated in 1856. Its pro- ducts have been carried into every quarter of the earth, and will continue to be in demand until the coming of the golden age. The machinery and methods employed are of wonder- ful ingenuity and delicacy, the parts of the weapons being interchangeable. The armory is the largest private concern of the kind in the world, and sometimes employs 1,500 men. Besides revolvers, the works now turn out great numbers of magazine rifles, hammerless shot-guns, Gatling guns, and printing-presses. In 1890 they began to make the Driggs- Schroder rapid-fire guns, one, three and six pounders, much resembling the Hotch- kiss guns, but simpler in mechanism. The last argument in a frontier dis- pute, or in a trouble between the white and black races in the South, or between Apache and Arizonian, is usually a Win- chester rifle, or, briefly, a Winchester. The same conclusive debaters were used in vast numbers in the last war between Turkey and Russia, shattering the still- COLT'S PATENT FIHL ^34 A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW HAVEN : WINCHESTER REPEATING ARMS CO. CAi!&>4.ws._ ness of the Balkans and the Danube with Connecticut weapons, held b\ t)pposing lines of battle. Man) European and Asiatic nations have armed their choice troops with these rifles, provided with ammuni- tion from the same New-England source. Thousands of sportsmen, also, wander through the forests and over the prairies with these fire-arms over their shoulders. The world- renowned Winchester Repeating Arms Company, organized in 1858, and incorporated in 1866, employs 1,500 men, and several thousand complicated and ingenious machines, in its great modern works, covering many acres with brick buildings, in a lovely suburb of New Haven. The famous weapon made here was first the Jennings gun ; then the Volcanic re- peating rifle ; th^ the Henry rifle ; and, finally, the Winchester, from O. F. Winchester, its maker. It had become such a combination of patents, that no one name held it, and it took the name of the manufacturer. While the flint-lock has given way to the percussion-lock, and tliis in turn to the breech- loader, the science of ammunition has more than kept pace with these changes ; and the trained ofticers of the foremost European governments have been sent to the works of the Union Metal- lic Cartridge Company, at Bridgeport, in order to transfer its incomparable system to their owti arsenals. Although these famous works make over a million cartridges daily, they never over- take the demand, but are driven to their fullest capacity all the time. It is the largest and most famous cartridge-factory in the world, and produces a vast variety of explosives, from small revolver ammunition up to Gatling cartridges, with brass and paper shot shells, caps and wads, reloading implements, and an immense number of military cartridges. The machinery is so true and accurate in its operations that it almost seems to be possessed of reason, and dispenses with a vast amount of manual labor. The highest revolver scores on record have been made with cartridges manufactured by this company ; and all the famous marksmen of America use no ammunition except that of their make. Among the many interesting and uncommon industries of Bridgeport, none is of greater interest or wider fame than that of the Union Metallic Cartridge Co., whose products are found in all lands. The experience and study of more than a third of a century have wrought wonders in the transformation of the base metals into forms of enduring beauty and high artistic value. One of the chief factors in this change is the Bradley & Hubbard Manufacturing Company, which was founded in a small way by the men whose name it bears, in 1854, and now employs more than a thousand operatives, including many of the most skillful artisans in America. Their immense works at Meriden are equipped through- out with the most improved machinery, and pro- duce rich and beautiful art-metal goods, includiiiL; bronzes, card-tables, easels and mirrors; also fen- ders, andirons and fire-sets, besides gas and elec- tric fixtures for dwellings or public buildings. The "B. & H." lamps, simple in construction, and ^^^^^^^■. bradley 4 hubbard mfg. co. BRIDGEPORT : UNION METALLIC CARTRIDGE CO. THE STATE OF CONNECTJCCT. 135 MERIOEN ; MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO. safe, and yielding a powerful white and steady light, are among the best in the world. The size adapted for piano, banquet, hanging and table lamps is of 75 candle-power, while that used for stores, halls, etc., is of 400 candle-power. The extension piano-lamps, in wrought iron, polished brass or silver, with their " B. & H." burners, have won general recognition in American homes for their useful- ness and beauty. Among the most artistic of the de- velopments of Connecticut genius are the varied products of the Meriden Britannia Company, founded in 1852, and now includ- ing ten acres of floor space in their great factories, wherein 1,200 skilled artisans are en- gaged. Their silver-plated ware is honestly made, of the best materials, and with a con- tinually advancing standard of artistic beauty, to keep abreast of the aesthetic spirit of the age. The spoons and forks bearing their trade-mark, 1847-Rogers Bros., A I, are found on millions of American tables. In the great maze of substantial brick buildings at Meri- den the most interesting processes may be followed, from the entrance of the raw material until its completion in forms of unusual and permanent beauty. This is the most extensive establishment of the kind in the world ; and has prosperous salesrooms at New York, Chicago, San Francisco, London, and Paris, and a branch factory at Hamilton, Ont. Thread is a small enough matter, but it takes upwards of 30,000,000 miles of it yearly to keep their clothes on the American people. A large part of this is furnished bytheWilli- mantic Linen Company, the chief American corporation making all the numbers of six-cord sewing-cotton from the raw material, and using each year the product of 3,000 acres of Sea-Island cotton-land, to make nearly 9,000,000 miles of thread. Each day this com- pany makes 250,000 spools or 28,000 miles of thread, in 5,000 varieties and 300 colors and shades. It was long supposed that the moist and equable climate of Scotland was essential in spinning yarn for fine thread ; but the Willimantic Company, by steam-heating and atomized moisture, has created in the heart of variable New England an area of un- varying warmth and humidity, superior for the purpose even to the climate of the Cale- donian land. There are several large and orderly stone mills, besides the famous No. 4, built in 1881, which covers more ground than any other textile mill in the world. The operatives, mostly American women and girls, number 1,500, with bright and comfortable homes, a public library, and other pleasant things. Intelligence is necessary in this industry, and all the operatives must be able to read and , __ ^^^^ ^ ^._^ ._,_.„ _^^ - ^^;,^^, ,^ , _ ^| write. The long and fine-stapled Sea-Island cotton, the most expensive in the world, is freed from seeds and dirt by the picker machine ; unsnarled by th< carding-machine ; drawn into ribbon-like "slivers ; " re-combed, roved, spun into yarn, twisted into thread, washed, bleached, dyed (if colored), spooled, labeled, and boxed. The excellence of the result is attested by a cabinet of medals awarded at different expositions, as well as by the experience of the thousands of house-mothers all over America. The silk-mills owned by Cheney Brothers, at South Manchester and in Hartford, are a series of spacious brick buildings, of plain but solid construction, and containing a large amount of delicate and ingenious machinery. The product is about $4,000,000 IMANTIC LINEN CO. 136 Wi am t : [ [ c a ; i) 1 r, n jx c c f B t:'ti D,icltiCtHC| 1 1 1 IlL,^ KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STAIES. a year, in plain silks, plushes, pongees, printed silks, crapes, and other goods. There are over 2,000 operatives in these mills. In South Manchester their homes are mostly owned by the company, and are of simple design, Init afford a good degree of comfort. The village is not crowded around the mills. Every house has some space about it, the result being to scatter the population ; while the homes of the mill-owners stand in an unfenced park of SOUTH MANCHESTER : CHENEY BROS. SILK-MILLS. ROCKVILLE : BELDING BROS. & CO. several hundred acres, more nearly adjacent to the mills than those of the employees, and made attractive by wide lawns, trees, and shrubbery. The sanitary conditions are good, and the scenery of the surrounding country diversified and agreeable. A public hall and a free library contribute to the pleasures of life. The great mills at Rockville, owned and operated by Belding Brothers & Co., are mainly used for the making of spool silk, and employ nearly 700 persons. Although these works have been repeatedly enlarged and provided with spacious annexes, they are entirely inadequate to supply the demand, and the Beldings have established complete mills also at Northampton (Mass.), Montreal (P. Q.), Belding (Mich.), and San Francisco (Cal). Among the products of this chain of silk-mills, reaching across the continent, are embroidery and wash art-silks (in 360 colors), machine-twist, spool and embroidery silks, piece goods, and very fine and delicate silk hosiery and underwear, all made by the latest and most ingenious machinery. The main Belding offices are in New York. I'his colossal business, with its five completely equipped factories, 3,000 operatives, and daily consumption of over a ton of raw silk, was founded in 1863 by Messrs. M. M., H. H., A. N., and D. W. Belding, who started in a small way, retailing silk from house to house, in the country towns of Connecticut and New York. The Ponemah Cotton Mills, among the largest in the world, are on the Shetucket River, near Norwich. They are a quarter of a mile long, and employ 1,800 persons, consuming 6,500 bales of cotton yearly, and making 20, 000, 000 yards of fine cotton cloth. The textiles woven here are recognized in the trade as the finest cotton or white dress goods ever produced in this country. The village of Taftville has grown up around the mills, and is largely owned by the company, which furnishes its people with pleasant homes at small expense. The mills are handsome buildings, architecturally, and have- immeiisr nml (-n>;tlv equipments of the most modern machinery, efficient for the grg^t and exquisitely fine pro- duct \yhrc'Fi~~iS demanded of them. The work of developing this manu- facturing power began in 1867, and the mill machinery was started in 1870. The capital stock of the com- pany is $2,000,000, and the mills — have 130,000 spindles, whose fine produL-u-? find a ready market all over the country. The first woolen mill in America was established in Hartford, in 1788, and made crow-colored goods, Hartford gray and Congress brown. At the inauguration ceremonies of April 30, 17S9, President TAFTVILLE : PONEMAH MILLS. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 137 HARTFORD : DWIGHT, SKINNER & CO. Washington, Vice-President Adams, and the Con- necticut Congressional delegation, wore suits of Hart- ford cloth, and Washington afterward visited the mill. The cloth sold at from $2.50 to $5 a yard ; hut the country was so poor after the Revolution that the pioneer mill run for only six years. The industry revived again, with tremendous energy and prosperity, and 25,000,000 pounds of wool are now used yearly in the factories about Hartford. President Harrison and Vice- President Morton were inaugurated in 1889, in suits of Hartford cloth. The industry thus firmly established has called up the collateral enterprise of buying and selling wools on a large scale, by such well-known houses as D wight, Skinner & Co., of Hartford, founded in 1856, and now handling immense quantities of wool yearly. Much of this is " grease wool," just as it is sheared, and is bought and sold in this condition. The concern has a large scouring plant at Windsor Locks, near Hartford, where they clean and scour 4,000,000 pounds of wool every year. This purified grade is sold to the leading manufac- turers. The wools used by Dwight, Skinner & Co. come from all parts of the United States, and from Australia, Russia and Africa. New England has an interesting aspect in its commercial side, in the number of strong copartnerships and corporations which have passed into their second half century of active business. Among these is the historic house of Beach & Co., which was founded away back in August, 1833, largely by the efforts of George Beach, Jr., son of George Beach, Cashier and President of the Phoenix Bank for 50 years, and a prominent member of Christ Church. For nearly 60 years Beach & Co. have stood at the head of the dyestuff trade in this section, and all the partners still bear the name of Beach. Besides their own product of dye-woods, indigo extracts and other goods of a similar character, they are the sole American agents for The Brit- ish Alizarine Company's Alizarine, the Atlas Works Aniline dyes, and Mucklow's Elton Fold dyeing extracts. No small part of the beauty of American fabrics has come from the violet, malachite, berberine, mandarin, primrose, opal, blue, crimson, scarlet, and purple sent out from this establishment. Beach & Co. also do an extensive importing and exporting commission business, having reliable correspondents in the principal cities of the Old World, as well as in Australia and the Spanish islands. For many years they have received the bulk of the cochineal consumed on this continent, their celebrated J. R. G. being well known by all important consumers. The Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company, originally organized in 1853, at Water- town, moved to Bridgeport, its present location, in 1856. It was originated for the pur- pose of manufacturing sewing-machines, under the patents granted to Allen B. Wilson for inventions which were practically perfected by the co-operation of Nathaniel Wheeler ; and ____ , _^ it introduced to the public the first sewing- machines adapted to general use in families. The factories cover ten acres, and the plant comprises machinery and appliances for cast- ing and metal-working, the manufacture of needles, and cabinet-work. There are 1,200 employees, who are of a higher grade than usual in manufactories of a similar character. BRIDGEPORT . WHEELER & wiLSuN MANUFACTURING CO. This couipany has always employed the best ||i!igSK5iEH^il| HARTFORD : BEACH & CO. 138 A'ING'S IlANnnOOK OF THE UNITED STAVES. inventive talcnl and the most skillful workmen, and consequently has from the beginning stood among the foremost in the march of improvement in the art of sewing by machinery. Its products, well known throughout the civilized world, consist of sewing-machines for family use and for every grade of manufacturing in cloth and leather, together with button- hole machines and a number of specialities pertaining to mechanical stitching. The high esteem in which their labor-saving machines are held is attested by the fact that whenever the mechanical products of the world have been placed on competitive exhibition, the Wheeler & Wilson sewing-machines have been crowned with the highest honors. The suc- cesses at the World's Expositions at Paris, in 1867, Vienna, in 1873, Philadelphia, in 1876, and Paris, in 1S78, were emphatically confirmed at the Exposition Uim'erselle, Paris, 1889, at which the only grand prize for sewing- machines was awarded to the Wheeler & Wilson, and the Cross of the Legion of Honor was conferred upon Nathaniel Wheeler, the president of the corporation. The Scovill Manufacturing Company, another pre-eminent Connecticut industry, is one of the chief establishments of the bright little city of Waterbury, on the Naugatuck River. It dates its origin from the primitive days of 1802, when Abel Porter & Co. began the manufacture of gilt l)uttons, in one end of a grist mill. The establishment was incorporated "under its present name in 1830, and its works now cover a dozen acres, and make up brass and copper into almost every form desirable for convenience or ornament. Thence come buttons by the million, electric wires, student-lamps, hinges, match-safes, and myriads of other articles, which are sold in all parts of the world. The company also has works in New Haven and New York, and agencies in New York and Chicago. The power for the first factory of this company was furnished by a single horse. The manufacture of buttons began here about 1790, when Samuel Grilley learned the art from an Englishman at Boston, and taught his brothers, Henry and Silas, at Waterbury. The buttons were of pewter, and when Silas Grilley and the Porters united, in 1802, the first brass buttons were made. Now the Scovill works are the crown of American brass and German-silver manu- facturers, with a product of immense variety and value. Another remarkable development of mechanical ingenuity appears in the business of the WATERBURY SCOVILL MANUFACTURING CO Ansonia Brass and Copper industry was founded in Phelps, Dodge & Co. and has had a career of it now occupies five great acres, and continually hands, with of nearly year. The stands pre- its product copper, and toms, cop - electrical purposes, and in- over a hundred patents for and for various forms of own Cowlcs's patents for eral other remarkable spe- varieties of rods, tubes, and ANSONIA : ANSONIA BRASS AND COPPER CO. Company, at Ansonia. This 1S47, ^^y Anson G. Phelps of (whence the name Ansonia), uninterrupted prosperity, until factories, covering about 16 employing from l,200toi,300 a pay-roll $900,000 a company eminent in of sheet- copper bot- per wire for got copper, and controls lamps and chandeliers, metal-working. They also insulating wire, and sev- cialties ; and produce great wire, besides lamps and THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. chandeliers of every kind for kerosene oil. This com- pany also manufactured clocks until 1878, when that part of their business was reorganized under the name of the Ansonia Clock Company, with factories in Brook- lyn, New York, where they employ about 1,200 hands. The art of pressing, stamping or forging hot metal, in dies of various forms, or drop-forging, gives results impossible to attain by hand-forging, and produces the most complicated and the simplest forms of forged work with admirable success. The pioneers in this craft were the Billings & Spencer Co., founded in .cer co. 1869 by C. E. Billings, and even to this day making a much greater number and variety of drop-forged goods than any other American house. As representative of this line, the establishment received a diploma of merit at the International Exhibition of 1876 at Phila- delphia. The products include 120 varieties of steel wrenches, and forgings for shuttles, guns, vises, chisels, thumb-screws, clamps, gauges, pliers, and a great variety of machinists' tools and other articles in iron, steel, and bronze. Another interesting specialty is drop- forgings from pure copper, for electrical machinery. The works of the Billings & Spencer Co. are at Hartford, and employ 125 men. Their products have reflected honor on Ameri- can ingenuity at the great expositions of Vienna, Chili, Boston, and New York, where they have received medals and diplomas. New Haven is celebrated all over the world for its carriages, embracing all lines of vehicles, from the light side-bar wagon, carrying one person, to the heavy and stylish brougham. This industry was one of the earliest to be founded in the city, and has met with a great development. New Haven also has a factory in which 2,000 persons are kept busy making rubber shoes ; and an equal number are engaged in making corsets. The New-Haven Clock Co. were pioneers in their business, and have branch houses in other countries. Another prominent industry of the City of Elms is the manufacture of builders' hardware and coffin trimmings. In addition, there are engine, boiler and machine shops and foundries, and large piano and organ factories. The steady and profitable development of manufacturing has been attended by a sus- pension of activity in the agricultural regions, which barely hold their own. Connecticut has thirty cities and towns having a population above 4,000 ; and these include 62 per cent, of the people of the State. The urban population continues to increase much more rapidly than that of the open country ; and many of the pleasant farms of the hill-country are being allowed to enter upon a rest which may endure for centuries, or until new and unfore- seen economic conditions restore the people to the love of Nature. In former days the transmission of mechanical power was effected by costly and cum- bersome systems of gearing, until the invention of leather belting afforded a better way. Pliny Jewell came down from New Hampshire to Hartford in 1845, ^"^^ "^ 1848 began to make leather belts, being the third person in America to enter this business. P. Jewell & Sons devoted much time and energy, and persistent personal effort to educating American manufacturers to the use of belting, and their plant increased until it now represents an investment of $1,000,000, and includes the spacious Hartford fac- tory, and large tanneries at Rome (Georgia), and Jellico (Tennessee), in the heart of the best oak-bark country. The green hides arc rigidly inspected, and very care- fully made up, by the latest improved machinery, into all sizes and shapes of belts. In 1883 the Jewell Belting Co. was organized ; and the business of the corporation now reaches over a vast area. hartford : jewell belting co. 140 KING'S HANDBOOK t)F THE UNITED STATES. BRIDGEPORT : EATON, COLE & BURNHAM CO. The Eaton, Cole & Buniliam Company, wliose \\ orks arc located at Bridgeport, is one of the loremost establishments in the world for the manufacture of all manner of brass and iron fit- tings for use in conducting steam, water, gas, and oil. These products include an immense variety of pipes, valves, cocks, radiators, cutting and threading tools, and other appurtenances, and are sold all over the American continent, as well as in Europe, being indispensable to the comfort of the people, and to the development of many of our great national industries. This commanding business dates from the year 1870, and was formed by the consolidation of the interests of the gentlemen whose names the company bears. It employs 800 men, with a yearly pay-roll exceeding $500,000, and uses vast quantities of iron, copper, tin, spelter and lead, in the production of the goods men- tioned. The patents owned by the corporation include a great number of devices for rap- idly and economically manufacturing their goods, as well as articles made by them for sale. Probably, no line of industry excels the one in which this company is engaged in point of the usefulness of the goods manufactured, to the people and to the world at large. On the harbor-side at Bridgeport, with a fine deepwater channel along its front, and railways traversing its grounds, is the compact and serviceable plant, with two acres of flooring, of the Springfield Emery Wheel Manufac- turing Company, the designers and maker of the largest variety of grinding machines. This busi- ness was founded at Springfield, in 1S81, by the four Hyde brothers. In 1890, the new plant at Bridgeport was built, and thoroughly equipped for the manufacture of wheels from emery, and for a limitless variety of grinding machines in many dif- ferent sizes and styles, for grinding and sharpen- ing all sorts of implements and metal surfaces, from the delicate tools used in jewelers' shops up to [I heavy plowshares and car-wheels. These service- able and indispensable machines are supplied with wheels made entirely of emery and cor- undum, which have a much greater grinding power and endurance than natural grindstones. Springfield wheels are in use by the United-States Government, the Edison and Westing- house companies, and thousands of manufacturers. The Springfield Emery Wheel Co. also makes daily 150 reams of sapphire garnet paper, in several grades. This is a sandpaper whose coating is pulverized garnet, large mines of which are owned by the company. The Pope Manufacturing Company stands preeminent in the world, in the manufacture and sale of bicycles. It founded the business in 1877, in Boston, by importing English machines, at a time when there was not a score of wheel- men in the Union (Col. Albert A. Pope, president of the company, being one). In 1878 the company began the manufacture of bicycles at Hartford, and their works now cover acres of fioorage, where hundreds of the best New-England mechanics, aided by the finest modern machinery, make a yearly increasing number of high-grade Columbia bicycles, tricycles and "safeties" for men and women. This famous corporation has a large BRID(-,EFOKT . SPRINbFIELD EMERY WHEEL CO. HARTFORD ; POPE MANUFACTURING CO. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 141 HARTFORD : PRATT & WHITNEY CO. office-building at Boston, branch-stores at New York and Chicago, and 600 agencies. By its early acquisition of patents, its strict adherence to one list of prices and discounts, its protection of dealers, and the repeated triumphs of its machines on the race-track and tour- ing routes, this company has built up the greatest business of the kind ever seen in the world, and supplied the American people and others with many thousands of "silent steeds." Connecticut not only manufactures almost everything needed in modern civilization, but she also provides the ingenious machinery for other people to manufacture with. One of the foremost institutions in this department is the Pratt & Whit- ney Company, whose works at Hartford employ 825 men (with an annual pay-roll of $500,000), making standard sizes and forms in gauges and reamers, taps and dies, automatic grain-weighers, forging machinery, machinists' tools for power and hand use, and a great number of other articles, its mere catalogue occupying hundreds of pages. From this establishment comes the entire working-plant of sewing-machine and gun factories. It supplied the German imperial gun-works at Spandau, Erfurt, and Danzig with admirable and costly plants; and has sent to Europe over $3,000,000 worth of tools and machinery. The company also makes for the United-States Government the Ilotchkiss _-— , rapid-fire guns ; and owns and manufactures the famous Gard- ner machine gun. With the co-operation of eminent scientific persons, and the United-States Coast Survey, this corporation after delicate and exhaustive comparisons constructed a ma- chine foi absolutely exact and uniform measurements, down to I 50,000 of an inch. Up to that time American yards and feet were of an endless variety of lengths. The stamped envelopes which bear American letters all over the world are all made in the fair Connecticut Valley, by the Plimpton Manufacturing Company, of Hartford, and the Morgan Envelope Com- pany, of Springfield, in association. The first-named, founded by Linus B. Plimp- ton, in 1865, and incorporated in 1873, is now the largest producer of envelopes in the world, employing 500 operatives, and with a yearly output valued at .$1, 500,000. Nearly a billion envelopes are made in the Plimpton factories every year, 600,000,000 of them being for the Government. The marvellous mechanism and labor-saving contrivances in- vented and used in these processes turn out precise and perfect work at a great saving from handicraft, and are so carefully patented by the , company that no one else can use them, or make envelopes so good and so cheaply. At Middletown is the famous establish- ment of W. & B. Douglass, the oldest and most extensive manufacturers in the world of pumps and other hydraulic machines. No other house approaches its line of cistern and house force pumps, hydraulic rams, yard hydrants and hy- draulic machinery. These goods have received the highest awards — gold and silver medals — middletown ; w. & 9, douglass. HARTFORD : PLIMPTON MANUFACTURING CO. 142 KING'S TIAhWBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. at the World's Expositions in Europe, America, and Australia. The Douglass cistern and house pumps are generally used in every country of the globe. The plant covers four acres, and the group of substantial brick buildings gives employment to 250 men. The busi- ness was founded in 1832 by William and Benjamin Douglass, and has always remained in the family, although it is nominally a stock company, with a capital of $600,000, and a sur- plus which gives to the establishment a value exceeding $1,000,000. Here are made 1,500 different styles of pumps and hydraulic rams, covering every use for houses, factories or farms. The best representative of the enterprise, ingenuity, and perseverance of Connecticut was rhineas T. Barnum, whose museum, menagerie, hippodromes, and other public entertain- ments, have been the delight of two generations, in both the New World and the Old World. Other countries may question whether any of our generals, discoverers, poets, or historians have attained the first rank among the great men of the world, but all admit that America has produced the most illustrious showman of all time. The key-note of his career was sounded in his own cheery words : " The noblest art is that of making others happy," and for half a century he practiced this precept, to the benefit of millions of people. Born at Bethel, Conn, (in the year 1810), the son of a farmer and tavern-keeper, he showed in childhood a great aversion to agricultural labor, and a great liking and a special aptitude for business. At the age of 15, fatherless and poor, he was thrown upon his own resources and was successively clerk in a store, editor of a paper, village storekeeper, and exhibitor of Joice Heth, the alleged nurse of Washington. This last venture decided his vocation, and he became the head of a small travelling company of performers, and a showman. In 1840 he bought the American Museum, in New York, and since that time the magnitude of his undertakings and successes was amazing, and made him the pride of the American people, and won for him the personal favor of the sovereigns of Great Britain and France, and countless other dignitaries. His best known achievements include the discovery, naming and exhibiting of General Tom Thumb ; the bringing of Jenny Lind to America ; the jnirchase of Jumbo ; the organizing in (1874) of " Barnum's Greatest Show on Earth ; " and liie transporting of the same to and from London, in the winter of 1889-90. "The Greatest Show on Earth " trav- els all over the United States and Canada, in 74 freight cars, and a Pullman train, moving by night, and giving perform- ances, in tents seating 25,000 people, at all cities of more than 40,000 inhabitants. The winter-quarters, at Bridgeport, include elephant houses, where 40 elephants are luxuriously housed and trained ; a lion and tiger house, kept at the required high temperature ; quarters for camels and caged animals ; a sea-lion and hippopotamus house, containing a great pond, artificially heated ; chariot and train houses ; blacksmith, paint, and carpenter shops ; and a inactice-ring for riders and acrobats. Uinvards of 82,000,000 tickets have been sold for the Barnum exhibitions. This versatile Connecticut genius won other laurels than those of a showman. Of the books he wrote, more than a million copies have been sold. He lectured before the largest and best audiences in America and luirope. He laid out . and built up the eastern half of Bridgeport. As a member of the Connecticut Legislature for several terms, and as Mayor of Bridgeport, he made an enviable official record. Bridge- port was Mr. Barnum's home for 45 years, and its parks, cemeteries, boulevards, and public institutions, foundctl by his generosity, and advanced by his wise supervision, bear witness to his practic.nl philanthrojiy. BRIDGEPORT WINTER QUARTERS; OF BARNL. BAILEY S CIRCUS 3i 1,762 2,oi;o I 604 3 I 28 160 323 5T0RY. The Delaware aborigines were of the Leni-Lenape ' stock, and included the Minqiias, on the Iron Hills, and the Nanticokes, in the lowlands of the south. The former migrated nearly two centuries ago ; the latter in 1748. llendrick Hudson discovered Delaware Bay, in 1609, while hunting for the short cut to China, but put to sea when he reached shoal water ; and a year later Capt. Argall sailed up the lone- ly expanse. The first white settlers were De Vries and 32 Hollanders, who founded a colony near the site of Lewes, in 1631. These pioneers all suffered massacre by the Indians. In 1638 Peter Minuit was sent out by Queen Christina to found here "a country in which every man should be free to worship God as he chose." He built Fort Christina, on the site of Wilmington, and garrisoned it with sturdy Swedes and Finns. The country received the name of A'ya Sveriga (New Sweden) ; and for many years the peninsula remained under Swedish rule. In 165 1 Gov. Stuyvesant came around from New Amster- dam, and erected Fort Casimir, on the site of New Castle, to hold these Baltic men in check ; but on Trinity Sunday of 1654 they swarmed into the new fortress, and raised over it the banner of Sweden. Finally, however, the Dutch conquered and annexed the province, and all the Swedes who refused to accept their rule were shipped back to Europe. Together with New Amsterdam, Delaware passed, in 1664, from Dutch rule to that of the Duke of York, by whom, in 1682, it was granted to William Penn, and its delegates entered the Pennsylvania Legislature, the " Three Counties on Delaware " remaining under the Penn proprietary government until 1775, although after 1702 they had a distinct assembly. Del- aware entered earnestly into the Revolution, and sent into the field a splendid Continental regiment, besides many militiamen under Gen. Rodney. Lord Beresford, in the Roebuck, STATISTICS. Settled at ... . Wilmington. Settled in 1638 Founded by .... Swedes. One of the original 13 States. Population, in i860, . , . 112,216 In 1870, 125,015 In 1880 146,608 White 120, 160 Colored 26,448 American born, . . . 137,140 Foreign-born 9,468 Males, 74,108 Females 72,500 In 1890 (U. S. census), , . 168,493 Population to the square mile, 74 8 Voting Population (1880), . 38,298 Vote for Harrison (1888), . 12,973 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 16,414 Net State Debt (1890), Area (square miles), . . U. S. Representatives (1893) Militia (Disciplined), . . , Counties, Cities, Hundreds Post-offices Railroads (miles), . . . Manufactures (yearly), $50,000,000 Farm Land (in acres), . . 1,100,000 P'arm Land \'alues, . $37,000,000 Assessed Valuation of Property (1890), . . $71,000,000 Average School Attendance, 22,000 News|)apers, 39 Latitude, . . . 38° 28' to 39° 50' Longitude, .... 75° '" 75" 46' Temperature, 1° to 98° Mean Temperature (Lewes), 540 ii;n chief placfs and their pop- ui.ATioKS. (Census of 1890.) Wilmington, 61,431 New Castle, 4,010 Dover, 3,061 Smyrna, 2,455 Laurel 2,388 Seaford 1,462 Middlelown, 1,454 Ceorgetown 1,353 South Milford, 1,3.39 Milford, 1,226 144 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CAPE HENLOPEN AND REHOBOTH BEACH. bombarded Lewes ; and an odd little battery was set up afterwards before the town, which still faces the sea. Washington's army lay about Wilmington before the bat- tle of Brandywine, but the British took Newark and Wilmington. Delaware was one of the original 13 States, and the first to ratify the constitution which formed the American Union. Therefore, upon occasions when the States are represented as States, she leads the right of the line. After the Secession movement began, the commissioners of Mississippi addressed the Delaware Legislature, urging the commonwealth to join the Southern States. This she refused to do, and sent into the National army nine regiments of infantry, a battalion of cavalry, and a light battery, whose services were marked by great valor. The Name of the State commemorates Lord De la Warr. Sir Roger La Warr cap- tured the King of France, at the battle of Poitiers, in 1356 ; and two centuries later one of his descendants fought so bravely at the siege of St. Quintin that he was created Lord De la Warr. His son married Queen Anne Boleyn's grand-niece, and among their chil- dren was the third Lord De la Warr, the first Governor of Virginia. Capt. Argall, a Virginian navigator, named Delaware Bay in honor of his chief, and this title gradually passed to the peninsula. It is sometimes entitled The Diamond State, from its small size and great value. Delawareans are called The Blue Hell's Chickens. Capt. Caldwell, of her Continental Line, and a famous cock-fighter, maintained that no cock was game unless it came from a blue hen. He was also an admirable disciplinarian, and made his command one of the most efficient in Washington's army. They won the title of Caldwell's Game-cocks, and subsequently of The Blue Hoi's Chickens ; and so the army men got in the way of calling every Delawarean a Blue Hen's Chicken. The Arms of Delaware bear a sheaf of wheat and an ear of corn, proper, in the upper part, and an ox, proper, in the lower. The crest is a ship under full sail, displaying the American flag. The supporters are a rifleman and a husbandman. The motto of the State is Liberty and Independence. The Governors have- been: S^aedish : Peter Minuit, 1638-41 ; Peter HoUendare, 1641-2; John Printz, 1642-53; John Papegoya, 1653-4; John Rising, 1654-5; Dutch: Peter Stuyvesant. English Colonial: Wm. Penn, 1700-21 ; Sir Wm. Keith, 1721-6; Pat- rick Gordon, 1726-38; George Thomas, 1738-45; James Hamilton, 1745-54, and 1760-5; R. H. Morris, 1 754-60; John Penn, 1765-8, and 1773-7; Richard Penn, 1768-73; John McKinley, 1777-8; Cxsar Rodney, 1778-82; John Dickinson, 1782-3; John Cook, 1783; Nicholas Van Dyke, 1 783-6; Thomas Collins, 1786-9. State: Joshua Clayton, 1789-96; Gunning Bedford, 1796-7; Daniel Rogers, 1797-8 ; Richard Bassett, 1798-1801 ; James Sykes (acting), 1801-2; David Hall, 1802-5; Nathaniel Mitchell, 1805-8; George Truitt, 1808-11; Joseph Hazlett, 1811-14, and 1823; Daniel Rodney, 1814-17; John Clark, 1817-20; Jacob Stout (acting), 1820-I ; John Collins, 1821-2; Caleb Rodney (acting), 1822-3; C. Thomas (acting), 1823-4; Samuel Paynter, 1824-7; Charles Polk, 1827-30 ; Dayid Haz- zard, 1830-3 ; Caleb P. Bennett, 1 833-7 ; C. P. Comegys, 1837-40 ; William B. Cooper, brandywine river. THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 145 WILMINGTON : MONUMENT PLACE. 1S40-4; Thomas Stockton, 1844-6; Joseph Maul (acting), 1846; William Temple, 1846; William Thorp, 1846-51; William H. Ross, 1851-5; Peter F. Causey, 1855-9; William Burton, 1859-63; William Cannon, 1863-5; Gove Saulsbury, 1865-71 ; James Ponder, 1871-5; John P. Cochran, 1875-9; John W. Hall, 1879-83; Charles C. Stockley, 1883-7; Benjamin T. Biggs, 1887-91 ; and Robert J. Reynolds, 1891-5. Descriptive.— Delaware is the smallest State in the Union, except Rhode Island, being but 93 miles in length, with a breadth varying from nine to 38 miles. The northern part is a fertile hill-country, with rapid streams flowing in deep valleys, oak and chestnut forests, granite and limestone ledges, and profitable deposits of porcelain-clay and iron-ore. It is a continuation of the lovely Chester County of Pennsylvania, with its grassy up- lands. South of the Christiana the State is nearly level, having a plateau, or sand ridge, 70 feet high and several miles wide, following the western side. In Kent, eastward of the forest, lie 180,000 acres of rich alluvial "neck" land, with 60,000 acres of tidal marshes, some of which are dyked and reclaimed. Much of the south is a light sandy soil, bordered by lagoons, and melting off into the Cypress Swamp, cov- ering 50,000 acres, filled with game, and pierced by salty inlets abounding in the finest fish and oysters. The marshy and clayey bay-shore is succeeded along the Atlantic by long and narrow sandy ridges, enclosing shallow lagoons, like Rehoboth Bay and Indian-River Bay, from three to five feet deep. The favorite sea- side resorts are Rehoboth Beach, between the pine woods and the surf ; Woodland, Bowers' and Collins Beaches, farther up the bay ; and two or three other locally famous summer resting-places, with large hotels and cottages. Delaware Bay is 13 miles wide between Cape Henlopen and Cape May ; 25 miles in the middle ; and three miles wide at Delaware City. The channel is tortuous, but has from 25 to 75 feet of water, and is the avenue of a vast commerce. Shad, herring, rock-fish, perch, sea-trout, sunfish, weakfish, croakers, spot, sheepshead, bass, terrapin, soft-shell crabs, and oysters abound in these waters ; and the drum-fish of Mis- pillion, the milletts beyond Henlopen, and the lobsters and blackfish of the Breakwater are well known. Brandywine Creek comes down from Pennsylvania with valuable water- powers, and meets the navigable Christiana Creek at Wilmington. The chief of the other streams are Smyrna River, St. Jones River (navigable to Dover, the State capital). Murder- kill, Mispillion River (navigable eight miles, to Milford), Broadkill, Indian River, and Broad River (navigable ten miles, to Laurel). The rivers of Sussex, once navigable for frigates, have been destroyed by the slow advance of the sand-dunes, which have buried many leagues of farm-lands. The Pocomoke, Choptank and Nanticoke rivers rise in Delaware, and flow across eastern Maryland into Chesapeake Bay. There are many estuaries along the coast, visited by small coasting craft, carry- ing away grain and sweet potatoes, oysters and tim- ber. The proximity of Delaware and Chesapeake Bays gives great equability to the climate, and the winters are so short and mild that in the south cattle need little shelter. The north is colder, but very healthy, while the south suffers some- what from intermittent fevers. Agriculture. — The 9,000 Delaware farms are valued at $37,000,000, and produce yearly 4,000,- 000 bushels of corn, 1,200,000 bushels of wheat, WILMINGTON : OLD SWEDES CHURCH. with oats aud sorghum, and vast quantities of 146 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. berries and dairy products. In Kent, many tomatoes are raised and canned ; and the north yields corn and amber wheat. Grapes and melons are exported, and 7,000,000 quart-baskets of strawberries yearly. The soil for ten miles in from the bay is rich, but beyond that limit it contains sand, and requires fer- tilizing. Amid the broad estates of the gentlemen- farmers, in an air of affluent peace, countless vine- yards and orchards cover the country with lovely purple and crimson hues. Delmar, Laurel, Clayton, Wyoming, Seaford, Bridgeville, Georgetown, Mil- ford, Harrington and Smyrna are among the shipping-points of the 55,000 acres of peaches. This fruit is of Persian origin, and attains its highest perfection on the Chesapeake penin- sula. The trees are short-lived, and very sensitive to frosts, and of late years they have been seriously menaced by the destructive blight known as "the yellows." Maj. Reybold founded the industry of growing peaches for the general market, near Delaware City, just before l85o. In a single year the railway has carried 10,000 car-loads of peaches and 1,000 car-loads of berries. In 1888, the peninsula shipped 3,177,477 baskets (each five eighths of a bushel) of peaches. In 20 years, 55,000,000 baskets were produced here. Vast quantities are also freighted on vessels, or used in the canneries and evaporating works. The unprofitableness of the fruit and grain crops of the past few years has caused an im- mense depreciation in land-values, and farms are worth in some cases much less than they were a century ago, in the early days of the Republic. Along the cliffs of the Brandywine there are several large quarries of tenacious and even- grained granite.- The abundant clays and kaolins of Wilmington are made up into bricks, terra-cotta, and crockery. These works employ 350 men. The fine spar quarried near Wilmington is used in making artificial teeth. Government. — The governor serves four years, and appoints the judges and executive and county officers (except sheriffs and coroners), but has no veto power. The General Assembly, of three senators and seven representatives from each county, meets at Dover in January of each odd-numbered year. The National Guard includes a regiment of infantry and two troops of cavalry. There is a Gatling-gun squad, and the Delaware-college cadets have a two-gun battery. Yearly encampments are held, at Rehoboth, Brandywine Springs, and elsewhere. Delaware owns interest-paying securities exceeding the amount of her liabilities, and is therefore practically out of debt, and does not assess or tax real or per- sonal property for State purposes. Its revenue is derived from general business licenses, bank stock and capital, and insurance companies. The railroads pay a lump sum to the State of above $80,000 a year, in lieu of other taxes. The Delaware townships are called "hundreds," after an English custom older than King Alfred's day, and the county repre- sentative boards are called Levy Courts. More than half the population dwells in the little north county. One sixteenth of the people are foreigners, and one sixth are colored. Only — •■ one third dwell on farms. Convicts are kept in the county jails, paupers in the county almshouses, and blind, idiotic and deaf-mute children in Pennsylvanian training-schools. Every county jail has its pillory and whipping-post, where condign punishment falls upon the backs of male thieves and other felons. Education has greatly improved since the act of ■ 1875, and is paid for by local taxation and the rev- ^ ^enue of a State fund begun in 1796, from the pro- ceeds of marriage and tavern licenses, and augmented WILMINGTON: HIGH SCHOOL. in 1 836 by Delaware's share of the United-States THE ST A TE OF DEL A WARE. 147 ^ ,— WILMINGTON Treasury surplus. Colored people's school-taxes are ^ set apart for 4,000 colored children, in the ^a^^^ 70 schools under the voluntary Delaware 2'- " Association for the Education of the Colored People, which receive also State appropriations. Delaware Col- lege, founded in 1833, at Newark, "The Athens of Delaware," near the Iron Hills, became a State col- lege in 1S70, and has since had periods of prosperity and depression, but is now improving. The institution has seven professors and lOO stu- dents, and maintains military drill, under the direction of an army officer. The Agricult- ural Experiment Station is connected with the college. The Friends' School, at Wilming- ton, dates from 1748, and has eight instructors and 1S5 students. The Academy of New- ark opened in 1768, and has 100 pupils. The Wilmington Conference Academy, at Dover, is a prosperous Methodist school. The chief libraries are the Wilmington Institute, founded in 1787, and the State Library, founded in 1793, each with 16,000 volumes. Delaware has six daily newspapers (four English and two German), all at Wilmington, and 30 weeklies. The Methodists have 166 churches in Delaware ; the Presbyterians 32, the Episcopalians 27, and the Catholics, Ericnds and Baptists eight each. National Institutions. — The United-States Government finished the great Delaware Breakwater in 1S28. It has a surf-breaker of 2, 748 feet, and an ice-breaker of 1,710 feet, and stretches into the sea like a mighty black arm, protecting yearly many thousands of vessels. To the southward projects Cape Henlopen, with a long white beach, and lonely sand-dunes and landward marshes. Fort Delaware, near Delaware City, mounts 155 guns, but is not garrisoned. Lewes is a quaint old maritime hamlet, the headquarters of the Delaware-Bay pilots. There are 18 light-houses on the coast, with a supply depot at Edge Moor. There is a tradition that the Dutch Greenland Company planted the flag of Holland at Lewes in 1598, and placed a colony here 24 years later. In view of its marshes, John Randolph of Roanoke once said that the Delaware senators represented three counties at low tide, and one county at high tide. Jefferson called Delaware "the diamond in the coronation of States " (whence its pet name). Chief Cities. — Wilmington, the metropolis of the State, lies upon both sides of the Christiana River and the rapid Brandywine. Both are tide-water streams, and the Christiana serves as an excellent harbor. The city occupies a gently rolling upland, and is steadily extending over the diked and drained meadows to the Delaware River, which flows along its eastern boundary for a league. At this point, 65 miles from the ocean, and 28 miles below Philadelphia, the Delaware has a width of three miles, with 30 feet of water at mid-tide in its shoalest parts. Wilmington (formerly named Willing-ton) was the first permanent European settlement in the valley of the Delaware. It has a high-school, with manual training, 23 public schools, trie street-cars, a fine water department, a police patrol tiful natural park along the Brandywine. The most interest- of Delaware is the Old Swedes Church, founded at Wil- the recipient of funds from William Penn, a Bible from Queen Anne, and a communion service from the miners of Sweden. It belongs to the Episcopalians, and its ivy-clad- brick walls rise amid an ancient graveyard. Dover, the cap- ital, is an ancient and pleasant town, with wide and shadowy streets and a mild climate, six miles from Del- aware Bay. In the old Episcopal church-yard a tall gran- ite monument was raised, in 1889, to Gen. Ccesar Rodney, the Revolutionary patriot. Fruit-canning centres here, electric lights, elec- system, and a beau- ing of the antiquities mington in 1698, and WILMINGTON : COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 148 RVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and the delicious canned plum-pudding of Dover is shipped j-^n^V lo England and France. New Castle, one of the quaintest of ancient boroughs, was named for and colonized by the j(., ^ city of Amsterdam, and then captured by Sir Robert Carr, WILMINGTON & B. STATION. who sold its Dutch garrison for slaves in Virginia, It is on the bay, five miles below Wilmington. The Railroads of Delaware converge at Wil- mington, through which pass the Pennsylvania and Baltimore & Ohio lines, each running southwest- ward from Philadelphia to Baltimore and Washington. The Pennsylvania Company leases the Delaware Railroad, running from Wilmington to Delmar and beyond, with branches to the Maryland ports on the Chesapeake, and to Delaware City, Bombay Hook, Lewes, Rehoboth, Ocean City, and other points. The Chesapeake & Delaware Canal was finished in 1829. It has cost $3,800,000, and runs for 13^ miles across the neck between the heads of the two great bays. It is nine feet deep, with two tide and two lift locks, having a rise and fall of 32 feet ; and is in constant use. The Manufactures of Delaware amount to over $50,000,000 a year, their most notable feature being Wilmington's iron steamships, built for the Long-Island Sound and Hudson- River lines, the Morgan, Cromwell and Pacific-Mail lines, and the routes from Boston to New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore. Several war-ships have been built here ; and also the yachts Volunteer, Priscilla, Electra, and N^otinnahal. ,. Wilmington also has immense car-shops ; and near by are the DuPont Mills, the largest gunpowder-making plant in the world, founded in the year 1802. Wilmington is in communication with the coal and iron country of Pennsylvania, and the local iron and steel works employ 6,000 men, and produce yearly $11,000,000. Other industries, cotton, paper, pulp, carriages, and ships, engage 1 1,000 persons, with a yearly output of $27,000,000. The favorable quality of the Brandywine water has drawn to Wilmington 2,000 workers in morocco and leather, whose product is $5,000,000 a year. The Edge Moor Bridge Works are close to Wilmington, on the Delaware River, and employ 700 men. The grounds cover 25 acres, and the punching, forging, riveting, machine and blacksmith shops, and the offices and steam-plant and electric-light plant build- ings, are substantial structures of brick and stone. Here also are the latest improved machin- ery and most complete appliances for the manufacture of all kinds of structural iron and steel work. A large portion of the machinery has been specially designed for these works ; and the Edge Moor Company first introduced the hydraulic riveting of compressive members, and the hydraulic forging of tensile members. Metal roof frames, structural work of iron and steel, and railway turn-tables are made here. But the chief industry of this great estab- lishment is the construction of bridges, and among its products have been the East-River Bridge, with its 7,000 tons of fitted steel work ; the Kentucky-River Bridge, the first cantilever bridge in America ; the Susquehanna-River Bridge of the Pennsylvania Railroad, the largest double-track bridge in the world ; the Northern -Pacific, Sabula and Minnehaha bridges, over the Mississippi ; the Rulo, Omaha and Sibley bridges, over the Missouri ; the Wheeling and Ceredo bridges, over the Ohio ; EDGE MOOR BRIDGE WORKS. the James-Rivcr Bridge, at Richmond ; the Sixth- avenue Elevated Railroad, in New York ; and the Pennsylvania Railroad's elevated line in Philadelphia, the Edge Moor company being both engineers and constructors. WILMINGTON HI5T0RY. STATISTICS. Settled at .... Washington. Settled in 1663 Founded by . . . . Englishmen. Organized, 1790 Population in i860, . . . 75,080 In 1870 131,700 177,624 118,006 59,618 160,502 17,122 83,578 94,046 230,392 The Federal Capital stands on the banks of the beautiful Potomac River, within reach of the salt-sea tides, and be- tween the sections which a quarter of a century ago were sepai^ated by such hos- tile interests. Its site was bought of the Indians by an Englishman named Francis Pope, who settled here in 1663, and named the place Rome, calling the creek which flows into the Potomac the Tiber, and the elevation on which the U. -S. Capitol now stands the Capitoline Hill. This eccentric and unconscious prophet used to sign himself " Pope of Rome." During the Revolution the National Government moved from town to town, to avoid the British armies. After the war several States claimed the seat of government, to be established as defined by the Constitution, not to exceed ten miles square, and to remain under the exclusive legis- lation of Congress. In 1788-9 Maryland and Virginia each offered such districts, and Congress in 1790 accepted, specifying the present location. There were two burning sectional questions before the Congress of 1 790, one as to the payment by the Government of $20,000,000 of war- debts, incurred by the individual States (mainly in the North) during the Revolution, and the other as to the loca- tion of the National capital on the Potomac. The Southern Congressmen opposed the former, and the Northerners the latter, prefering a site on the Susquehanna or the Delaware. Jefferson and Hamilton finally united to secure concessions on both sides, whereby the South allowed the financial bill to pass, and the North consented to the location of the capital on the Potomac. George Washington became acquainted with the locality when a youthful surveyor, and again when an officer of Brad- dock's army, which encamped at Georgetown. He secured the land from the proprietors, to whom the Government deeded back half the city-lots. The obscure Maryland hamlets In 1880 White, ... Colored, .... American-born, . . Foreign-born, . . Males Females, .... In 1890 (U. S. census). Population to the square mile, 2,960.4 Net Public debt, . . . $21,000,000 Assessed Valuation of Property (i8go), . . $153,000,000 Area (square miles), . . 70 U. S. Representati\-es Militia (disciplined). Counties, Post-offices, . . . Railroads (miles), ... 31 Manufactures (yearly), $12,000,000 Farm Land (in acres), . . 18,000 Farm-Land Values, . $3,600,000 Public Schools, .... 90 School Children, . . . 30,000 Newspapers, 65 Latitude, . . . 38° 51' to 39° N. Longitude, . . 76058' to 77=6' W. Temperature — 14° to 104° Mean Temperature, . . 547° CHIEF SECTIONS AND THEIR POPU- LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) The District is now under one municipal government, that ofWash- ington, with 230,392 inhabitants. The part of this covered by old Washington has 188,932 inhabitants ; old Georgetown, 14.046 ; Mount Pleasant, 3,o«o; Anacosiia, 2,000; and Brighlwood, 1,000. 15° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. of Funkstown, or Hamburg (at Observatory Hill) and CarroUsville (on Arsenal point) were blotted out, and the Federal City came into theoretical existence. The magnificent system of avenues was planned by Major L'Enfant, and laid out by Surveyor Andrew Ellicott. In 1 791 the new public domain received the official title of the Territory of Columbia; and the Federal City became the City of Washington. In 1800, when the city had 3,000 inhabitants, the north wing of the Capitol being finished, the public archives were transferred in a sloop from Philadelphia, and Congress held its first session here. "The capital of miserable huts" was likened to the Serbonian bog ; and Pennsylvania Avenue formed only a cleared line through a morass of alder-bushes. In 1 814 a British army of 4,500 men routed the American militia at Bladensburg, and occupied Washington, destroying the public buildings. No Government edifices having been erected on the western side of the Potomac, Alexandria and Virginia petitioned that that part of the District should be retroceded to Virginia ; and this was done, in 1846. The city was menaced by the Confederate troops at the outbreak of the civil war, until the night of May 23, 1861, when Wood's column crossed the Aqueduct, Heintzelman moved over Long Bridge, and Ellsworth occupied Alexandria. During the subsequent war, the defenses of Washington consisted of 68 forts, mounting 905 cannon and mortars, with 93 batteries for field-guns, and 20 miles of rifle-pits. These works covered a perimeter of 37 miles, and had a garrison of many thousand men. They saved the capital from assault after the various reverses of the Federal armies in Virginia ; and in 1864 repelled by their guns an attack in force by Gen. Early's army. On May 23 and 24, 1865, W^ashington rejoiced in the grandest military display ever seen in America, when the bronzed veterans of the National armies marched in review past the President. On the first day came the Army of the Potomac, headed by Gen. Meade, Merritt's Cavalry Corps, Macy's Provost Guards, Benham's Engineer Brigade, Parke's 9th Corps, Dwight's Division of the 19th, Griffin's 5th and Humphrey's 2d. The next day Sherman and his men marched through the jubilant streets, with Eogan's Army of the Tennessee, containing Hazen's 15th Corps and Blair's 17th, and Slocum's Army of Georgia, composed of Mower's 20th Corps and Davis's 14th Corps. After 1 87 1 Alexander R. Shepherd, Governor Henry D. Cooke, and other progressive citizens of the District, secured the authority to take adequate measures to "lift Washing- ton out of the mud." The government thus organized raised money by local taxation and by the sale of District bonds, and set an army of laborers to grading and paving, parking and tree-planting. Within ten years $25,000,000 were spent in improving the city. As a result, Washington rose from a rambling Southern town to the position and dignity of a true cosmopolitan city, beautiful in situation and in architecture, and a continental centre of scientific and literary culture. Washington received incorporation as a city in 1802, and its mayors were elected by the people until 1871, when Congress revoked the charter. The District is named in honor of Columbus, the discoverer of America. The only governors the District has had were Henry D. Cooke, in 1871-3, and Alexander R. Shepherd, in 1873-4- Descriptive. — Washington lies on the Potomac River, io6j miles from Chesapeake Bay, and 185^ miles (by ship-channel) from the ocean, between the Anacostia (or Eastern Branch), a broad and shallow tidal river, once navigable to Bladensburg, and Rock Creek, a picturesque hill-stream. The undulating surface of the District is surrounded by eleva- tions of from 150 to 400 feet, Washington being built within this amphitheatre, with Capitol Hill rising to a height of 90 feet. The soil is a fairly fertile light sandy loam and clay, resting on cretaceous rocks, and supports about $4,000,000 worth of farms and market-gardens. There are many oaks, hickories, pines, chestnuts, butternuts, elms and lindens. The climate is healthy, although the summers have the high mean temperature of 75°, with southerly winds. A flurry of cold weather occasionally diversifies the mild and pleasant winters, but snow does not lie long, and the Potomac freezes across only in THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 15T WASHINGTON: THE CAPITOL OF THE UNITED STATES. 152 A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. January. The mean temperature is nearly the same as that of San Francisco. The city is farther south than Vienna or Rome. The District is more populous than seven of the States and Territories. It has 2, 200 Britons, 3,500 Germans, 8,000 Irishmen, 29,000 Virginians, 34,000 Marylanders, 6,000 New-Yorkers, 5,600 Pennsylvanians, and 4,500 New Englanders. One third of the inhabitants are colored. The manufactures are unimportant, except for the well-known flour-mills of George- town. The Potomac is navigable for large vessels up to Georgetown. It yields abundantly of fine herring, shad, perch, bass, enormous sturgeon and other food-fish. Georgetown is the port of entry, but has only slight remains of its ancient commerce with England and the West Indies. 472 vessels, of 28,196 tons, are owned here ; and steamboats run to the Potomac ports, Norfolk and Baltimore. The plan of Washington was designed by the French military engineer, I'Enfant, under the advice of Jefferson, who, while in the diplomatic service, had carefully studied the great capitals of Europe. It is a successful endeavor to combine the practical straight lines of Babylon and Philadelphia with the artistic bciuty and grace of Versailles, and to fuinibh noble and commandmg sites for the public buildings ern and west ern streets aie the the the name 1 for letteis of alphabet , northern and south cin streets lie named foi figui es md aei nss then geomctiieii le^ ularit) run 21 1 loi 1 ei diagonal a\eiiues (fi )ni 120 to 160 feet wide), named for the States, and forming many open squares, eiieles and tiiangles. Moie than half the city is in streets and parks, the former of which are the widest in the world, and are overhung by myriads of fine shade-trees, and partly given up to narrow parks. Nearly all the residence-streets, covering sixty miles, are paved with asphalt, forming a luxurious and durable roadway to drive upon. Massachusetts Avenue is the grandest of the thorough- fares, over five miles long, from the Anacostia River to Kalorama Heights and Rock Creek, traversing high ground, with an imperial width of 160 feet, and adorned for a full league with two rows of overarching lindens on each side. Pennsylvania Avenue is of nearly equal length, and its section leading from the shining colonnades of the Capitol to the noble temple-front of the Treasury Department is the main street of the city. It is one of the brightest, laziest and most historic and interesting streets in America, and Washington and Hamilton, Jefferson and Lafayette, Lincoln and Grant have trodden its level walks. No other city in the world is so magnificently shaded, for there are upwards of 120,000 trees on the 120 miles of its streets. The region northwest of the White House was formerly known as "The Slashes," and furnished pasturage for cows, goats and geese. It is now one of the handsomest of residence-quarters, covered with modern THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 153 OBSERVATORY. brick and stone houses of distinctive character, the foreign legations, and homes of senators and cabinet-officers, set amid green lawns and beds of bright flowers. In 1 87 1 the city and county governments were replaced by a Territorial government, with a Governor, a board of public works, and a legislature, and a delegate in Congress. The enormous debt incurred by the Board of Public Works, in transforming and improving the city, caused Congress to break up the Territory in 1S74, and vest the municipal executive powers in three commissioners, two of whom are civilians and one a U. -S. Engineer officer, appointed by the President. There is a Supreme Court of six justices, with other tribunals and officials. The law is the common law of England, with enactments of the State of Maryland, modified by acts of Congress and the several local municipal govern- ments which have been in force here. Residents of the Dis- trict have no right to vote on National or local questions ; yet, the municipality is the best governed in America. The legis- lative power rests entirely in Congress. The District Court House was built in 1820-49, and served until 1871 for the city hall. The debt is in a sinking-fund, of which the Treasurer of the United States is commissioner. The revenues arise from taxes levied on private property and privileges, to which Congress adds an equal amount by appropriations. The yearly expenses of the District amount to over $5,000,000. The water-supply comes from the Potomac, above Great Falls, fourteen miles distant, and is capable of giving Washington a more copious supply than any other city in America receives. The largest stone arch on the continent carries this aqueduct across Cabin- John Creek. The city markets are famed for their profusion and cheapness of provisions, and draw their supplies largely from the Maryland and Virginia farms. The schools are very efficient and successful, and attendance is general. There are dif- ferent public schools for white and colored children. Columbian University was opened in 1822, and has classical, medical and law departments, with 20 professors and 323 students. It occupies an imposing structure of brick and terra cotta, with handsome lecture-halls and museums, not far from the Treasury Department. Howaid University was founded in 1867, mainly for colored persons, and has collegiate, theological, law, medical, commercial, normal and preparatory schools, with nearly 500 students. Georgetown University was founded by Bishop Carroll in 1789, and is prosperous and finely equipped, with classical, medical and law schools, 61 instructors and 550 students (largely from the South), a library of 45,000 volumes, and a magnificent site on the heights above Georgetown, look- ing dovra the Potomac for many miles. It is the oldest Catholic college in the United States, and has a corps of learned Jesuit professors. Gonzaga College is a Jesuit high- school, founded in 1858, with 150 students. The ~^ . - .. ^ . , Catholic University of America, incorporated in 1885, occupies a beau- tiful site of 65 acres on the highlands near the Soldiers' Home. The first department opened (m 1889) was that of divinity, with 7 professors and an endowment of $500,000. The Paulists have a house of studies here, and will be followed by other religious orders, forming a mediaeval city of scholastics. The Methodists bought in 1890 a tract of 90 acres near Oak View, for the site of a National university. There are several other semina- ries and schools of law, pharmacy and theology. The city has nearly 150 churches, 40 Methodist, 25 Baptist, 20 Presbyterian, 18 Episcopalian and 12 Cathohc. Among the Episcopal churches are St. Paul's, at Rock 154 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CATHOLIC UNIVERSITY OF AMERICA. Creek, founded in 1719 ; Christ, near the Navy Yard, founded in 1795, and the church of Jefferson and Monroe; and St. John's, near the White House, founded in 1816, and attended by Madison, Jackson and Arthur. The First Presbyterian Church was attended by Jackson, Polk, Pierce and Cleveland, and also by Webster, Benton, Houston and other statesmen. The New-York Avenue Presbyterian Church was Buchanan's and Lincoln's place of worship. Grant worshipped at the Metropolitan Methodist Church ; Hayes at the Foundry Methodist Church ; John Quincy Adams at the old Unitarian Church ; Garfield at the Christian Church ; and Benjamin Har- rison at the Presbyterian Church of the Covenant. The Government Hospital for the Insane, on the noble heights south of the Anacostia, contains 1,500 patients, from the army and navy and insane residents and temporary residents of the District. It dates from 1855, and occupies a cultivated park of 419 acres. The Columbian Institution for the Deaf and Dumb was founded by Amos Kendall, for District people and children of soldiers and sailors. Here is the National Deaf-Mute College, the only one in the world, with eight teachers and 60 students. Its handsome pointed Gothic building of sandstone was erected by the Government in 1870-1, on the pleasant Kendall- Green estate of a hundred acres. The railroads are the Baltimore & Ohio and the Baltimore & Potomac, both running to Baltimore, and the former also passing from Washington westward to the Ohio Valley. The famous Long Bridge carries the tracks which unite the Maryland and Virginia railway systems. The District has serviceable and far-reaching street-railways, extending across the city in every direction, and to various suburban villages. By the War Department's Official Table of Distances, on the "shortest usually travelled routes," Washington is 230 miles from New York, 458 from Boston, 115 from Richmond, 673 from Savannah, 1,349 from Key West, 1, 001 from Mobile, 1,110 from New Orleans, 1,521 from Galveston, 1,829 from ^Brownsville, 553 from Cincinnati, 813 from Chicago, 894 from St. Louis, 1,223 from St. Paul, 1, 810 from Denver, 2,374 from Salt-Lake City, 3,167 from San Francisco, 3,122 from Portland (Oregon), and 4,484 from Sitka. Amid the grand avenues and parks of Washington rise the magnificent and spacious administrative offices of the Government, representing an outlay of above !|i 1 00, 000, 000, and forming a group of edifices unrivalled elsewhere. The Capitol of the United States is one of the most majestic buildings in the world, in grandeur of form and richness of mate- rial, its glistening dome and vast walls and colonnades of Massachusetts and Maryland marble rising like a snowy exhalation from the deep green of the surrounding parks, and visible from leagues away on the Virginian hills. The old north wing was founded by Washington in 1793, and finished in 180D, and the old south wing dates from 1811. De- stroyed by the British in 1814, the edifice was rebuilt in 1817-27. In 1851 the architect commenced the new extensions, the House occupying the present hall in 1857, and the Senate in 1859. The great ' iron dome arose in the terrible years 1856-65. The chief architects of the { Capitol were B. H. Latrobe of Maryland, in 1803-17; Charles Bulfinch of Massachusetts, in 1817-51 ; Thomas M. Walter of Ji Pennsylvania, in 1851-65 ; and Edward Clark of Penn- ,„.,"''-;l?Sv^l^«^ sylvania. The cost of the Capitol and its furnishings has probably exceeded $30,000,000. The first troops arriving in Washington early in the Seces- sion War converted the building into a fortress, ^^'^'^s_J-'-^^fe-i^^:i^^i'^L'^y>^^ and during the battle-years work was steadily ''''^9^^'^^^^^i^(>i~-»-^-y-ri^*^-''*''^^ •"•?'■ carried forward on the Capitol, it being President "'^''**'*"""^''*"'' *■*" Lincoln's opinion, that the cessation of these GEORGETOWN UNIVERSITY. THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. ^S5 constructive labors would dispirit the soldiers of the army. The Capitol stands on the western brow of Capitol Hill, with its main front toward the plateau on the east, and the other side overlooking the city and its great departmental palaces, the broad estuary of the Potomac, and the lonely hills of Virginia. The building is in rich classic architecture, and covers three and a half acres, being composed of a central structure, containing the Rotunda and Library, and a north wing for the Senate Chamber and a south wing for the House of Representatives. Each of these sections has imposing colonnaded porticoes, the chief of which, on the eastern side of the central edifice, is the place where the Presidents are inaugurated. The dome, 307^ feet high and 135^ feet in diameter (and exceeded in size only by St. Peter's, St. Paul's, the Invalides and St. Isaac's), is crowned by a peri- styled lantern, above which stands Crawford's majestic bronze statue of Freedom, 19:^ feet high. This huge dome contains 4,000 tons of iron, arranged to move during atmospheric changes like the folding and unfolding of a lily, and frequently painted a glistening white. It overarches the Rotunda, 96 feet in diameter and 180 feet high, adorned with historic busts and bas-reliefs and eight large historical paintings, with Brumidi's vivid allegorical fresco of the Apotheosis of Washin the dome is of wonderful beauty and erate forts and troops were visible .architectural marvel. The Capitol the historic halls of the two devoted to the Representatives ton overhead. The view from the top cf interest. For a long time the Confcd- from the unfinished colonnades of this is crowded with interesting scenes ; houses of Congress (of which that is the largest legislative hall in the jii" THE CAPITOL, FROM THE EAST. world) ; the grand porticoes, with their wealth of statuary and Corinthian columns ; the bronze doors, unequaled outside of Florence, and covered with statuettes and reliefs, the discovery of America, the life of Columbus, the Revolutionary battles, the inauguration of Washington; the Library of Congress, the largest in America, containing 640,000 books, and abounding in rare treasures of literature; the beautiful Supreme-Court Room, used in old times as the Senate Chamber, and now the seat of the highest legal tribunal in America ; the sumptuous reception and committee rooms and corridors ; the President's Room, the most richly decorated in America ; the Marble Room, of Italian and Tennessee marble, called the finest apartment of the kind in the world ; the wonderful marble stair- cases of the legislative wings, with their great paintings of Chapultepec, the Battle of Lake Erie, and Westward the Star of Empire takes its way ; the huge Doric columns of the crypt ; and the National Statuary Hall, an impressive Greek chamber, of noble dimensions, adorned by each State with statues of two of its most illustrious sons. This unrivalled hall was used by the House of Representatives from 1S08 to 1814, and from 181 7 to 1857, and witnessed the triumphs of Webster and Clay, Randolph and Calhoun, Adams and Corwin, and other leaders of the Republic. The statues now here are William King of Maine ; Ethan Allen and Jacob Collamer of Vermont ; John Winthrop and Samuel Adams of Massachusetts ; Williams and Greene of Rhode Island ; Sherman and Trumbull of Connecticut ; George Clinton and Livingston of New York ; Stockton and Kearny of New Jersey ; Fulton and Muhlenberg of Pennsylvania ; Baker of Oregon ; Garfield and Allen of Ohio, and Lewis Cass of Michigan. Here also are David D'Anger's statue of Jefferson, Stone's Hamilton, Mrs. Hoxie's Lincoln, and Houdon's Washington. 156 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The President conducts the Government administration by nine departments, State, Treasury, War, Navy, Interior, Post-Otftce, Justice, Agriculture and Labor, whose heads he aj-points, subject to confirmation by the Senate. All but the last belong to the Cabinet. The State Department administers the external policy of the Government by nearly 1,300 persons in consular service and the legations. The so-called Department of Foreign Affairs was re-named the Department of State, in 1789, and has charge of the negotiation of treaties and diplomatic correspondence, grants passports, and guards the seal of the United States. In the event of the President and Vice-President dying in office, the Secretary of State succeeds them (Act of 1886). The State, War and Navy Departments occupy an enormous quadrangular structure, erected in 1871-88, at a cost of $10,500,000, and the largest granite building in the world. It covers four and a half acres, and has twenty acres of floor-space. Its huge blocks of light-gray Virginia and Maine granite weigh from half a ton to twenty tons each, and will outlast centuries. The State Department occupies the ^ south wing, built in 1 87 1-5. The original 5 „ -si^Bfeit. Declaration of Independence and Wash- ington's sword and commission are kept in this building. The heads of the State Department have been Jefferson, Randolph, Pickering, Marshall, Madison, Smith, Monroe, Adams, Clay, Van Buren, Livingston, McLane, Forsyth, Webster, 3|;!l?il4^i^:®^=£s^t7' Legare, Upshur, Nelson, Calhoun, Bu- STAxi, WAR AND NAVY DEPARTMENTS. chanan, Clayton, Everett, Marcy, Cass, Black, Seward, Washburne, Fish, Evarts, Frelinghuysen, Bayard and Blaine. The Treasury Department cost $8,000,000, and covers an area of 5S2 by 300 feet, including two enclosed courts. The east front was built in 1836-41, with a colonnade in the style of the Athenian temple of Minerva Pallas ; and the other three fronts arose in 1855-69, in noble Ionic architecture, with broad porticoes and many huge monolithic pillars. The material of these three fronts is Maine biotite granite, in cyclopean blocks ; and the Cash Room is lined with rare marble from Vermont, Tennessee, Italy and the Pyrenees. The huge vaults of steel and chilled iron contain the National-Bank bonds and scores of millions of dollars in silver and gold coin. The Department of the Treasury was organized in 1789, and has charge of the finances of the Republic, mints, currency, internal revenue, customs, receipts, life-saving service, steamboat inspection, marine hospi- tals, light-houses, statistics, and the coast and geodetic survey. It employs over 16,000 persons, 2,500 of them in the department proper. Among its chiefs have been Hamilton, Gallatin, Crawford, Rush, Woodbury, Guthrie, Cobb, Chase, McCuUoch, Boutwell, Bristow, Sherman, Manning, Fairchild and Windom. The War Department occupies the central and the northern and western wings (built in 1878-89) of the vast granite palace where the State Department dwells, and has 1,500 clerks and 3,000 men employed outside. This is also the head- quarters of the Army, consisting of 27,000 men, in ten regiments of cavalry, five of artillery, and 25 of infantry, and distributed over the Military Divisions of the Atlantic, the Missouri (including the Depart- ments of the Platte and Dakota), and the Pacific (Departments of California and the Columbia), and the independent Departments UNITED-STATES TREASURY DEPARTMENT. THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 157 INTERIOR department: THE PATENT OFFICE. of Arizona, the Missouri and Texas, which report direct to Army headquarters. The Divi- sion of the Atlantic includes Louisiana and all the States east of the Mississippi River, except Illinois. The Secretary of War arranges all details of the military service, trans- portation, and the purchase of supplies for the army. The Quartermaster-General and 1,800 employees see to the ti:ansportation, clothing and quarters of the Army; the Com- missary-General and 70 men provide subsistence for the troops ; the Surgeon-General has 1,000 persons to help him, and the Paymaster-General has 140. The Chief of Engi- neers looks to the fortifications, rivers and harbors, and bridges ; the Chief of Ordnance is in care of the artillery, arsenals, weapons and munitions ; the Judge-Advocate General is in charge of the Bureau of Military Justice. The Adjutant-General and his 200 officials regulate the correspondence, recruiting and gen- eral discipline of the Army ; and the Inspec- tor-General inspects forts and posts, accounts, personnel and materiel of the Army. Among the heads of the War Department have been Knox, Pickering, McHenry, Dexter, Dearborn, Eustis, Armstrong, Monroe, Crawford, Cal- houn, Barbour, Porter, Eaton, Cass, Poinsett, Marcy, Cameron, Stanton, Belknap, Endicott and Proctor. The Navy Department, in the eastern wing (built in 1872-9), supervises the American fleets, their building and equipment, manning and employment. The bureaus are those of Yards and Docks, Navigation, Ordnance, Equipment, Provisions and Clothing, Medicine and Surgery, Construction and Repair, and Steam Engineering. The Naval Observatory, with a Warner & Swasey telescope, the Hydrographic Office and the Nautical-Almanac Office are also under the Navy Department. There are 250 clerks in the department, and 3,800 employees outside. The Navy includes 8,250 sailors and 2,000 marines, in 80 vessels, carrying 300 gims. The fleets remained under the direction of the Secretary of War until 1798, when the Department of the Navy came into being, and the Marine Corps was organized. Among its heads have been Crowninshield, Dickerson, Paulding, Upshur, Bancroft, Mason, Toucey, Welles, Robeson, Chandler, Whitney and Tracy. The Interior Department covers two squares, nearly midway between the Capitol and the White House, with its immense and massive facades and porticoes, in the Doric style, and mainly of glistening white Maryland marble. This edifice is one of the finest in Washington, and usually bears the name of the Patent Office, because its great halls contain myriads of inventors' models. The Interior Department has nearly 10,000 persons in its service, under the Commissioners of Patents, Pensions, General Land-Office, Indian Affairs, Education, Railroads, Geological Survey, Inter-State Com- merce, Pacific Railways and the Census. The south front of the structure dates from 1836-40, and the rest from 1S49- 67. The building contains 191 rooms, and cost $2,700,000. The Department of the Interior dates from 1849, ^"'i ^^as numbered among its chiefs McClelland, Usher, Delano, Chandler, Schurz, Lamar and Noble. The earliest legis- lation about patents occurred in 1 790; and the first Com- missioner of Patents received his appointment in 1836. The Patent Office has no equal in the world, and admirably shows forth the ingenuity and enterprise of the American people. The Post-Office Department occupies a rich and ornate Corinthian structure of white marble, begun in 1839, oppo- INTERIOR CONGRESSIONAL LIBRARY. i5« A'/.VCrS irANDBOOk' OF TIfK UNITED STATES. UNITED-STATES POST-OFFICE. site llic I'atciil Office. It has 600 clerks, anil an outside force of nearly one hundred and fifty tiiousand persons, including 63,000 postmasters (handling 4,000,000,000 pieces yearly), and 6,000 persons in the railway mail service. The IIO clerks in the Dead-Letter Office yearly treat above 6,500,000 pieces of mail-matter. The department began operations in 1789, and the Postmaster-General first became a Cabinet officer in 1829, in Jackson's admin- istration. Among its chiefs have been Pickering, Habersham, Granger, Meigs, Kendall, Cami)bell, Blair, Creswell, Jewell, Vilas and Wanamaker. The Department of Agriculture began its labors in 1862, and distributes yearly among the people over 1,200,000 jiackages of seeds, and myriads of vines and plants, besides several hundred thousand volumes of reports. It occu- pies a spacious and attractive building, in Renais- sance architecture, on the Mall, between the Capitol and the Washington Monument, and is surrounded by rich gardens, beautiful flower-beds, Italian terraces, experimental grounds, arboretums and plant-houses. The museum and libraries con- tain vast collections. There are 400 employees, devoted to forestry, ornithology, pomology, seeds and other objects, with a botanist, chemist, en- tomologist, microscopist, statistician, and other officials. The Department of Justice arose in 1870, and occupies a l)uil(ling near tiic Treasury, with nearly 2,000 persons in the service. The Attorney-General, its head, is the chief law- officer of the Government, and has been a Cabinet officer since 1789. The Department of Labor (taking the place of the Bureau of Labor, organized in 1885) was constituted in 18S8, to acquire and diffuse information about labor, capital, earnings, and the means of })romoting the material, social, intellectual and moral prosperity of the working classes. Its head is Carroll D. Wright. The White House, or Executive Mansion, stands between the Treasury and Slate Depart- ments, surrounded by emerald lawns and noble old trees, and with views of the Potomac and the Virginian hills. It was built in 1 792-1800, on the model of the Duke of Leinster's mansion at Dublin, and contains many beautiful rooms and works of art. The U. -S. Coast Survey, a bureau of the Treas- ury Department, dates from 1807, and occupies a granite building near the Capitol. Here are kept the Standards of Weights and Measures for the States. The Coast Survey was "suggested by Jefferson, begun by Gallatin, organized by Ilassler, and per- fected by Bache, and is recognized by every learne 1 body in the world." The Bureau of Engraving ami Printing, with its 1,200 work-people, prepares all the pajjcr money ami bonds of the United States, in a buihling near the Washington Monument. The Government Printing-Oflice and Bindery is the largest in the world, and has turned out in a single year 200,000 pages of composition, in over 1,500,000 volumes. Many of these books have become famous for the perfection of their manufacture, as well as for their other merits. The office employs 2,700 persons, and pays out about $3,000,000 a year. The Smithsonian Institution is a iiohle ;ui6, 500, 000 having been appropriated for it. The material is white New-Hampshire granite, and the courts are faced with ivory-white enamelled brick. The building is two thirds of the size of the Capitol, and the finest for the purpose in the world. The Corcoran Gallery of Art, founded and richly endowed by the late W. W. Cor- coran, a banker of Washington, contains one of the finest collections of pictures and statu- ary in America, including works by the old masters and modern European painters, and many specimens of our own art, by Leutze, Sully, Huntingdon and other American masters. It was opened to the public in 1874, and occupies a handsome building opposite the War Department. The Government Botanical Garden, at the foot of Capitol Hill, covers ten acres with its conservatories and gardens, enriched with a great variety of native flora and rare exotics. The U.-S. Navy Yard was acquired in 1799, and the JVasp, Argus, Potomac, St. Louis, Brafidytvine, Minnesota and other famous ships first entered the water here. It covers 27 acres, along the Anacostia River, about a mile from the Capitol ; and has spacious barracks and workshops, and many trophies. The great National cannon-foundry is at the Wash- ington Navy Yard, and has the finest and most improved machinery for its work. It was estalilished during Cleveland's administration, and has turned out most of the armaments of the new cruisers and gun-boats. The Marine Barracks, near the Navy Yard, are the headquarters of the Marine Corps, famous for valiant deeds in Tripoli and Mexico, Corea, and the Pacific Islands, and elsewhere. The U.-S. Arsenal occupies 45 acres at the south- ern point of the city, between the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, with pleasant grounds, barracks, magazines, military stores, and cannon captured from the enemies of the Repub- lic. The Arsenal dates from 1803, and was the depot of ordnance supplies for the Army of the Potomac. The Soldiers' Home was founded in 1851, with the tribute-money levied on the city of Mexico by Gen. Scott, and is maintained by a monthly tax of twelve cents on each soldier of the regular army, for whose use it is reserved. It has several handsome marble buildings, in a pai'k of 500 acres, three miles north of the Capitol, and supports 500 disabled veterans. The grounds contain Launt Thompson's bronze statue of General Scott. This locality was the favorite summer-home of Presidents Pierce, Buchanan and Lincoln. The Congressional Cemetery, near the Anacostia, contains the graves of many distin- guished statesmen and officers. There is a National Cemetery, near the ancient Rock- Creek Church and the Soldiers' Home, with over 6,000 graves. In Oak-Hill Cemetery is the grave of John Howard Payne, the author of Home, Siveet Home, with its beautiful classic monument and portrait-bust. Here also are the graves of General Reno, Secretary Stanton and other notables. The Washington Monument, designed by Robert Mills, and built in the periods 1848- 54 and 1S80-4 (at a cost of i^i, 200,000), is a majestic white obelisk 555 feet high, above the ground, and 592 feet above the foundations, the loftiest piece of masonry in the world, surpassing even the Great Pyramid, Cologne and Antwerp Cathedrals, and St. Peter's. The pyramidal crest is crowned by a pointed block of shining alumnium. The monument stands in a park of 45 acres, near the shore of the Potomac River, and on the Mall leading from the Capitol ; and the eight windows near the top command beautiful views of the city, the winding and silvery Potomac, and the distant Blue Ridge. The outside is of crystal Maryland marble ; and the base is 55 feet square, with walls 15 feet thick. The THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. i6i WASHINGTON : SOME PUBLIC ART WORK. l62 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. GARFIELD MONUMENT. Scott was made by H. K. interior is lighted by electricity, and traversed by a stairway of 800 steps, and an elevator which rises to the top in seven minutes. The Lafayette Monument was executed by Falguiere and Mercie, enunent Parisian sculptors, in 1888 90, and shows a colossal bronze Lafayette, in a Coiuinenlal uniform, and around the marble base bronze statues of Rochambeau and L)u- portail, De Grasse and D'Estaing, soldiers of the French army and fleet which aided in freeing this Republic. There is also a symbolic statue of America. The Naval Monument, or Monument of Peace, at the foot of Capitol Hill, was made in Rome, of Carrara marble, and mainly paid for by subscriptions from the Navy. It is a group of beautiful emblematic statues, designed by Franklin Simmons, and erected in 1877. East of the Capitol is the bronze group representing ICmancipalion, with Abraham Lincoln holding the Proclamation over a negro whose shackles are broken. It was designed by Thomas Ball, and the freed colored people paid for the entire work. Another statue of Lincoln stands in front of the District Court House. The equestrian statue of (ieneral Jackson, on Lafayette Square, was made by Clark Mills, from brass cannon captured by the hero of New Orleans, and received its dedication 1853, with an oration by Douglas. The colossal equestrian statue of Lieut. -General Brown, from cannon taken by its subject in the Mexican War. Another equestrian statue, on Wash- ington Circle, represents General Washing- ton at the Battle of Princeton. Capitol Hill has an equestrian statue of General Nathan- to iel Greene, of the Continental army, dedi- cated in 1877. The Society of the Army of the Tennessee erected in 1876 Rebisso's col- ossal equestrian statue of General McPher- son, made from the bronze of war-worn cannon. The noble equestrian statue of General Geo. H. Thomas (by J. (^. A. Ward) was erected in 1879 ^Y '^^ Society of the Army of the Cumberland. East of the Capitol is Greenough's colossal Carrara-marble statue of Wash- ington, received in 1840; and on the west stands Story's bronze statue of Chief- Justice John Marshall, unveiled in 1884. Among the other statues in Washington are those of Admiral Dupont (by Launt Thompson), a Ijronze figure of heroic proportions, unveiled in 1884 ; Vinnie Ream Hoxie's bronze figure of Admiral Farragut, made from the metal of the propeller of his famous flagship Hartford, and unveiled in 1881 ; Plassman's marble statue of Benjamin Franklin ; Bailey's bronze figure of Gen. Rawlins, Grant's chief of staff" ; Story's bronze statue of Prof. Henry, near the Smithsonian Institution ; the colossal bronze statue of Martin Luther, erected by the Lutherans of America ; and President Garfield's statue, on Maryland Avenue. Franklin's statue was a gift of Stilson Hutchins. The environs of Washington are full of interest, and afford a variety of pleasant excursions. Steamboats run down the Potomac, daily, to Mount Vernon, the home and burial-place of George Washing- ton, giving opportunity for a pilgrim- age which should be taken by every patriotic American. The quaint old Virginian city of Alexandria, connect- ed by ferry-steamers with Washing- ton, preserves the church in which the Father of his Country used to worship, after the manner of the Epis- medical library and museum, u.-s. army. NATIONAL MUSEUM. THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. i6 CORCORAN ART GALLERY. copalians. Across the river from Washington, the yellow front of the Arlington mansion gleams out from the dark trees of Arlington Heights. This house was built in i8o2 by tJ. W. P. Custis, Mr.s. Washington's grandson, and George Washington's adopted son, whose daughter married Robert E. Lee. Here Lee dwelt until he threw in his lot with the Southern States. The deserted estate became a place of National camps and forts, and now belongs to the Government, and has been occupied as a National Cemetery, where over i6,ooo soldiers of the Federal armies during the late civil war remain in "The bivouac of the dead." Remnants of old fortifications may be found on these mem- orable Virginian hills ; and the roads leading thence to Falls Church and Annandale, Fair- fax and Manassas, recall the marches of McDowell and McCIellan, Hooker and Burnsidc, Meade and Grant. In 1861 Washington was practically only a second-rate Maryland town, with streets of abysmal mud, littered here and there by half-finished public buildings. It lay between two great slave States, perplexed Maryland and embattled Virginia, and the army considered it as not worth saving, for itself, but very much worth saving on account of what it represented, to wit, the throne of .American Government, and the metropolis of free institu- tions and Republican ideas in the world. In those dark days, even the Royal Foundry at Munich refused to make the bronze doors for the U. -S. Senate, unless the cost was prepaid. This demand was met by a spirited order from Washington to ship the model of the doors to America; and at Chicopee (Mass.), the metal- founding was admirably done, showing, in imperishable bronze, the heroic deeds of George Washington. Washington is now one of the most desirable residence- cities in the world, with a blameless civic administration, a bland climate, beautiful scenery and architecture, and noble historic associations. The chief foreign diplomats have their residences here, and many other foreigners. The lead- ing American statesmen, authors, scientific men and society people are found on Pennsylvania Avenue, at some time during the year ; and the number of distinguished people who become permanent residents of the Federal City grows larger every decade. bronze door of the senate. The quaint old building on the corner of Fifteenth Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, formerly the Washington Branch of the Bank of the United States, has been occupied since 1845 ^^y ^ private banking firm of high reputation and credit. Nearly a century ago, when the neighboring town of George- town was a commercial point of some importance, Elisha Riggs was a prosperous merchant in that place, having as his book- keeper the afterwards-famous George Peabody. George Wash- ington Riggs, eldest son of Elisha Riggs, formed a co-partner- ship in 1840 with W. W. Corcoran, of Georgetown; and the firm (Corcoran & Riggs) rapidly obtained an important position in the financial world, and successfully negotiated the Mexican War Loans for the Government. Mr. Corcoran retired from active business in 1854, since which date the firm has used its present title, Riggs & Co. George W. Riggs died as head of the house in 1881 ; and the present partners are Elisha Francis Riggs (son of George Washington: riggs & co. 'S bank. WASHINGTON : THE ARLINGTON HOTEL. 164 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. W. Riggs), Charles C. Glover, Thomas Hyde and James M. Johnston. This old and renowned house conducts a very large business and retains its con- servative reputation at home and abroad. The Arlington Hotel was opened in 1869, on the sites of the homes of Marcy and Cass, secretaries of State under Pierce and Buchanan, and of Reverdy Johnson and Charles Sumner. Among its guests have been Presidents Grant and Arthur, Cleveland and Plarrison, the Emperor Dom Pedro of Brazil, the Grand Duke Alexis, Prince Napoleon, the Duke of Orleans, the Count of Paris, King Kalak- aua and Queen Kapiolani, President Diaz of Mexico, President Barrios of Guatemala, General Boulanger, Patti, Adelaide Neilson and hundreds of other notables, and embassies from many foreign powers. The hotel, with its new extension, stretches from Lafayette Square (on which the White House fronts) to McPherson Square, and is in every re- spect sumptuous. The beautiful and spacious parlors, in Louis Quartorze and other delicate styles of decoration, have been the scene of many famous receptions. Of the hotels at Washington, the Arlington is not only the largest of those strictly first-class, but it is foremost in all its appointments and management. Ever since 1870 its proprietor has been T. A. Roessle. Washington has four daily newspapers, thirty-four weeklies, eighteen monthlies and two quarterlies. Here, too, are the all- important Washington offices for correspondents of all the great newspapers of the world ; some occupying commodious quarters, and in one case. The Baltimore Sun, having a home in its own elegant and conspicuous eight-story stone-front building. The foremost chronicler and helper of the growth of modern Washington has been The Evening Star newspaper, which has the greatest local circulation of any American journal, in proportion to the population of the city in which it is pub- lished. This remarkable supremacy is due to the fact that the key-note struck by its first issues, away back in 1852, has always been followed, in the presentation of a clean, enterpris- ing and bright independent paper, especially devoted to the interests of Washington and the District of Columbia, with all the latest local news and American and foreign reports, by As- sociated and United Press as well as special dis- patches. The daily circulation of 77^1? Star exceeds 32,000 copies, most of which reach the households of the city, a fact which illustrates, more forcibly than any words that could be used, the popular es- teem in which the paper is held. For nearly a quarter of a century the management of The Star has been in its present hands, — Crosby S. Noyes ably editing it, and S. H. Kauffmann, as president of the company, conducting its general business af- fairs. The Star Buildings cover a large area on one of the most prominent and valuable corners in the city, and contain an equipment in every depart- ment not excelled by that of any afternoon newspa- WA8HINQTON : THE EVENING STAR BUILDING. P^'' ^"^ '"^ WOria. BALTIMORE SUN BUILDING. Florida was the first re- gion of North America to be colonized by Europeans. It was discovered and ex- plored in 1 5 13, by Juan Ponce de Leon, landing at a bay just north of St. Au- gustine, and proclaiming the sovereignty of Spain. Fourteen years later Panfilo de Narvaez marched inland from Apalachee Bay, with 300 Spaniards, in a futile and fatal attempt to conquer and colonize the country. All these adventurers perished, except Cabeza de Vaca and three others, who discovered and crossed the Mississippi, and reached the Spanish towns of Mexico. The Adelantado Hernando de Soto landed near Tampa, in 1539, with a noble array of armor-clad knights and men-at-arms, and marched across West Florida, and away among the pagan tribes beyond. In 1564 Laudonniere and his French Huguenots built Fort Caroline, on the St. -John's River, but were surprised by a Spanish fleet under Menendez, and massacred, "Not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans," as the inscription left on their bodies grimly attested. In 1568, De Gourgues's expedition captured the fort on the St. John's, and hung the garrison, "Not as Spaniards, but as traitors, thieves and murderers." St. Augustine was founded and named by the pitiless Menendez, in 1565. Twenty-one years later Sir Francis Drake utterly destroyed the town ; and in 1665 the bucca- neers plundered it. Gov. Moore led a South-Carolinian army against St. Augustine in 1702, and was beaten off from the fort. Oglethorpe vainly besieged the place for 38 days, in 1740, with 1,400 Georgians and Carolinians, and rained shot and shell upon it from Anastasia Island. The settlement of West Florida began in 1696, when cola. Florida was ceded to Great Britain in 1 763, in return colonies, and many Tories from the Carolinas, nearly all STATISTICS. Settled at ... . St. Augustine. Settled in 1565 Founded by . . ■. . . Spaniards. Admitted to the I'nited States, 1845 Population in iSbo, . . . 140,424 In 1870 187,748 In 1880 269,493 White 142,605 Colored, 126,888 American-born, . . . 259,584 Foreign-born, .... 9,909 Males 136.444 Females, 133.049 In i8go (U. S. Census), . . 391,422 Topulation to the square mile, 5 Voting Population (1880), . 61,679 Vote for Harrison (1888), 26,6';7 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 39,561 Net State Debt {1890), . . $i53.39i Assessed Property, . . S77iOoo,ooo Area (square miles), . . . 58,680 U. S. Representatives (1893) 2 Militia (Disciplined), . . . 1,300 Counties 45 Post-offices 894 Railroads (miles), .... 2,471 Manufactures (yearly), $5,500,000 Farm Land (in acres), . . 3,300,000 Farm-Land Values, . $20,000,000 Colleges and Professional Schools, School ISuildings, .... 1,800 Average School-Attendance, 51,000 Newspapers, 122 Latitude, .... 24''30' to 31° N. Longitude, . . 79°48' to 87''38' \V. Mean Temperature (St. Augustine), 69^2° Mean Temperature (Key West) 765^° TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POPU-" LATIONS. tCensus of 1890.) Key West 18,080 Jacksonville, 17,201 Pensacola, 11.750 Tampa, 5,532 St. Augustine, 4,742 Palatka 3,039 Tallahassee 2,934 Ocala 2,904 Orlando, 2,856 Fernandina, . . . ■ . . . 2,803 the Spaniards occupied Pensa- for Cuba, and received English of whom removed to Georgia r66 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SILVER SPRING. when Don Bernardo de Galvez captured West Florida. The country was ceded back to Spain (in 1783) in exchange for the Bahamas. The Apalachicola River became the boundary be- tween the provinces of East and West Florida. The people of the Gulf States were ill-pleased at the continuance of a European power in Florida, and Gen. Jackson seized Pensacola, in 18 14, and four years later occupied both Pensacola and St. Augustine. On both occasions the Government recalled its too enthusiastic officers, and the Spanish system was restored. In 1819 the King of Spain reluctantly ceded Florida to the United States, and Andrew Jackson became its Governor. There were then but 600 whites in Florida, dwelling mainly in Pensacola and St. Augus- tine, the rest of the country being occupied by the Seminoles, numbering about 4,000, with 800 slaves. The aboriginal Floridians were the Miccosukee Indians. After 1750, migrating bands of Creeks from Alabama occupied Alachua and Tallahassee, and swallowed up the original tribes. In 1835 began the Seminole War, which lasted for seven years, and cost $20,000,000 and the lives of 1,500 American soldiers. Over 30,000 volunteers were called out by the United-States Government, including commands even from New York and Missouri. Every settlement south of St. Augustine was blotted out. In 1835 ^'''^ I^" dians massacred Maj. Dade and his command of 109 men, and were beaten by Gen. Clinch. In 1837 Zachary Taylor and 1,100 troops defeated 380 Indians in a hard battle at Lake Okeechobee, losing 138 men. The savages, under the great chief Osceola, were driven southward, to Suwanee, to Orange Lake, and across the Everglades, until the navy joined in the closing campaigns among the Seminoles were removed beyond the and now dwell in the Indian Terri- their old homes among the Ever- at Tallafajassa, 15 miles from Fort At the outbreak of the late joined the Southern States in at- seizing all the unprotected Na- borders. The strong defences cola, and Forts Jefferson and k -:^A Florida Keys. Most of the Mississippi in 1842 and 1S58, tory ; but 300 of them cling to glades, with their chief village Pierce, on Indian River. civil war, Florida promptly tempting to leave the Union, tional property within her of Foit Pickens, neii Pcnsi- I a) lor, on the kL\s, wcie securely held by their Federal "~"^«^ A'y. garrisons; and the vessels of < t\< , the United-States navy kept command of most of the coast. Early in 1864 Gen. ^ ''^j47J'/7^''^i'''' Seymour occupied Jackson- " "^'^Wnl^' WAm • ville with 7,000 Federal troops, and advanced ^j ^jirK^^-if ' ^il westward nearly to Lake City At Ocean Pond ^^^^j^ ^^^2^^*^^)^ on the Olustee, his army was thrown m detad " ^^'•"'■'^ ^'" "tf'"< ¥li-4-^ against a strongly posted Confcdcrite force, and defeated, losing 1,861 men out of 5,500 engaged, -= -^^^ .' - ^ Out of an equal force, the Southern aimy lost 940 After this appalling carnage the National troops retreated to Jacksonville, which remained secure under the Federal control. The terrible yellow-fever pestilence of 1888 was the result of the carelessness of the local government, which allowed the disease to spread out from Tampa. It held high carnival at Jacksonville, with 4,711 cases, of whom 412 died; and also at Fernandina. Gainesville and other places. A State Board of Health was created in 1889, and will be able to act with intelligence and authority in future emergencies, so that it will be difficult for epidemics to make such ravages again. FLORIDA FRUITS. THE STA TE OF FLORIDA. 167 TAMPA BAY. The Name of the State was given by its dis- coverer, Ponce de Leon, who first saw the land on Easter Sunday, or, as the Spaniards have it, Pascua Florida, "The Flowery Festival." The name therefore means "The Flowery," or "The Land of Flowers." Florida is called THE EVERGLADE STATE, from one of its natural features. The peo- ple used to be nicknamed " Fly-up-the-Creeks." The Arms of Florida show an Indian upon a bank, scattering flowers ; the sun sinking or rising behind distant hills ; a river in the middle ground, bearing a side-wheel steamboat ; and a great cocoanut tree. The motto is : In God we Trust. The Governors of Florida have been : Ter7'itorial : Andrew Jackson, 1 82 1-2; Wm. P. Duval, 1S22-34; John H. Eaton, 1834-6; Richard K. Call, 1836-9 and 1S41-4; Robert R. Reid, 1839-41 ; John Branch, 1844-5. -State : Wm. D. Moseley, 1845-9 ; Thomas Brown, 1849-53; James E. Broome, 1853-57; Madison S. Perry, 1857-61; John Milton, 1861-5 ; A. K. Allison (acting), 1865; Wm. Marvin (provisional), 1865-6; David S. Walker, Sr., 1866-9; Harrison Reed, 1869-73; Ossian B. Hart, 1873-4; Marcellus L. Stearns, 1 874-7 ; George F. Drew, 1877-81 ; Wm. D. Bloxham, 1881-5 ; Edward A. Perry, 1885-9; ^"d Francis P. Fleming, 1889-93. Geography. — East Florida includes the penmsula, ^\est^\ald to the Suwanee River; Middle Florida extends from the Suwanee to the Apalachicola ; and West Florida reaches thence to the Perdido River. Another division is North Florida, from 30° to the northern line, 45 miles wide ; Central (or semi-tropical) Florida, a land of savannas and hammocks, lakes and rivers ; and South (or sub-tropical) Florida, where there is very slight difference in the temperature, summer and winter. The distance from the northern line to the remotest Key is 450 miles, and the average width of the peninsula is 95 miles. The distance from the Atlantic to the western line is 400 miles. It is 700 miles from the Perdido River to Cape Sable. Imaginative geographers find in Florida the shape of an inverted boot, with the heel on the St. Mary's River and the toe at Pensacola. The central highlands contain many pleasant modern villages, in a rolling country cov- ered with a majestic growth of pines, and diversified by hundreds of crystalline lakes. Among the famous resorts in this region are Altamonte Springs, on Lake Orienta ; the Seminole Hotel, among the orange-groves of Winter Park; Ocala, and Lake Weir. The mineral waters of the Ponce-de-Leon, Green-Cove, White Sulphur, Suwannee, NeM^port and other springs have attracted much attention, and are visited by many health-seekers. The r,200 miles of Florida's coast (472 miles on the Atlantic, the rest on the Gulf) in- cludes among its chief harbors Fernandina, Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Daytona, and Port Orange, on the Atlantic ; and Key West, Oyster Bay, Punta Rassa, Charlotte Harbor, Tampa, Cedar Keys, Carabelle, St. Mark's, Apalachicola and Pensacola on the Gulf. The Atlantic coast is fronted with narrow sandy islands, enclosing far-reaching lagoons. The broad Straits of Florida sweep around between SUWANEE RIVER. .r <^^-^jtf ROCKLEDQE : SCENE ON INDIAN RIVER. i68 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. the peninsula and Cuba and the Bahama Banks, with the deep-blue Gulf Stream filling them from shore to shore, 30 miles wide, 2,000 feet deep, and rushing eastward and north- ward at a rate of five miles an hour, at a temperature of 84°. There are myriads of islands around Florida, including those in the Everglades, the Ten Thousand Islands, and the famous Florida Keys (Cayes), extending 200 miles south- westward from Cape Florida to the Dry Tortugas. Many of the Keys are uninhabited ; and nearly all of them are infested by enormous swarms of mosquitoes. A navigable channel separates the sand-flats upon which the Keys rise from the long and dangerous chain of the Florida Reefs. The Keys are only a few feet above the tide ; and bear mangrove, mastic, sweet bay, gumbo-limbo, palmetto, pine, and other trees, among their sands and rocks. Cocoanuts, hemp, and pineapples grow here with little attention. Largo is the greatest of the islands, and encloses broad bays and lagoons. Here, and at Elliott's and the Mate- cumbe and Plantation Keys, 600 truck-farmers raise tomatoes, cucumbers, bananas and other fruits for the early market, sending 50,000 crates by the Mallory Line to New York every season. Since 1880, 600,000 cocoanut-trees have been planted on and near the Keys, with wonderful success, and their product is shipped north in increasing volume. They re- quire salt air, and will not endure frosts. One hundred trees grow on an acre, bearing fruit in from seven to ten years. During the season of pineapples, several thousand bar- rels are shipped from Key West every week. They are of the red Spanish variety, grow- ing on dry sandy soil, 10,000 plants to the acre, and bearing the second year. The enor- mous development of the cocoanut and pineapple culture along the coast and up as far as the Caloosahatchee and Lake Worth, and the rapid advance in raising dates, guavas and lemons in South Florida have been almost entirely the result of the past ten years, and will enrich the Republic by a variety of new and delicious food-supplies. Key West, 60 miles from the main, and 90 miles from Havana, _is the sailors' pronuncia- tion of the Spanish Cayo Iliieso (Bone Reef), so named because the early explorers found here great quantities of human bones. It was settled in 1818 by Connecticut fishermen, who sold their fish in Havana. About 20 years ago a number of Cu- ban exiles took refuge here, and established the manufixc- ture of cigars, from Havana leaf. There are . pw 125 factories, making over 125,000,000 cigars yearly. Key West has a noble and well-fortified harbor, with a naval station, and lines of steam- ships to Cedar Keys, Tampa, Havana, New Orleans, Galveston and New York. It is the ninth port of entry in the United States; and the only Gulf-coast city never occupied by the Confederacy. The island is six miles by a mile and a half in area. The city has broad streets, ten churches and a fire-proof Masonic Temple ; many structures of limestone quarried on the island ; fine public buildings, and several lines of street-cars. It is peculiarly a Spanish colony, with foreign architecture. The climate is so equable, tropical and withal bracing, that this locality has become a sani- tarium for sufferers from diseases of the throat and lungs, and catarrhal patients. Snow- flakes have never been seen here. Key West is 66j hours from New York, by fast mail, and less than twelve hours from Havana, by the steamship route. The southernmost point of the United States is Sand Key, seven miles south-southwest of Key West, on the edge of EST HARBOR. S. NAVAL STATION AND GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. HOMOSASSA RIVER. THE ST A TE OF FLORIDA. 169 the Florida Reefs. Here a tall brown and white light-house beacons the Florida Straits, within 80 miles of Havana. The fisheries of Florida are the largest in the South, and engage 10,000 men, with a yearly product of $1,000,000. The sponge-fishery is one of the leading industries, and employs 1,000 fishermen and 400 vessels and sail-boats, built on the Keys, and manned by Bahama negroes ( ' 'Nas- sau coons"). A sponging vessel has several boats, each sculled slowly by one man, while the other, perched in the bow, watches the bot- tom of the channel for sponges, and secures them by a three-pronged iron claw fastened to a long pole. Key West alone ships nearly $400,000 worth of sponges every year, mainly to Paris. The mullet-fisheries of West Florida were famous in the old Spanish days, and now 5,000,000 pounds a year are exported to Cuba. The grouper fisheries are also very important and lucrative. The red snapper is a handsome, favorite and appetizing fish, and 2,500,000 pounds are sent from Pensacola yearly, largely to New York. The pom- pano is another valued denizen of these waters ; and here also are found the king-fish, sheepshead, bream, Spanish mackerel, channel-bass, blue-fish, sea-trout, and oysters. Shad run in the rivers ; and outside are found sharks, cuttle-fish and octopuses. The green-turtle and sea-turtle (sometimes weighing 1,200 pounds each) captured in nets among the Keys are of great value, and their eggs (100 to 300 in each nest) are prized as food. Alligators dwell in all the rivers, and are shot by thousands ; and on the lower coast are found the manatee and crocodiles. Many Bahama corallers get an arduous living by breaking from the sub- merged Keys, tree, finger, brain, red and other varieties of corals, which are sent North and sold for good prices. Tarpon fishing is one of the most exciting of sports. Much of the Atlantic coast is fringed with long and narrow islands, like Amelia, on which Fernandina stands, and Anastasia, opposite St. Augustine. Fort-George Island, at the mouth of the St. -John's, is a beautiful sea-fronting winter-resort. Indian River, a salt- water lagoon 165 miles long, and from one to six miles wide, and separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land, is famous for its delicious oranges and pineapples. The southerly part, from St. Lucie to Jupiter Inlet, is called Jupiter Narrows, or St. -T.f/cie Sound. Florida has 1,200 miles of river navigation, on twenty streams. The St. -John's River is nearly 400 miles long, flowing northward parallel with the ocean coast, from its birth- place in the swamps just north of the Everglades, through a chain of silvery lakes, reach- ing a width of a mile 50 leagues above its mouth, and in its lower courses broadening to six miles across. The river is divided into three sections (i), the Port of St. John's, 22 miles long, from the jetties at the mouth up to Jacksonville, the avenue of a large steam- ship commerce; (2) the St. -John's River, 125 miles long, from Jacksonville to Sanford (on Lake Monroe), with several steamboat lines; and (3), the Upper St. -John's, extend- ing 1 50 miles, from Sanford to Lake Florence, and navigated by smaller vessels, which thread the dark bayous far into the remote and un- peopled south. Its tributaries, the Ocklawaha and Kissimmee, are also the avenues of a con- siderable trade. The recent drainage-works have opened a steamboat route 140 miles long, on the historic Caloosahatchee River, Lake Okeechoobee, and the Kissimmee, Cypress and Tohopekaliga Lakes, into inland Florida. The i[ Peace, Manatee, Withlacoochee, St. Mark's, ' ' uiuui iiiuiiuuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiDiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiuiiiiiiii ■jH the ocklawaha. I 70 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LAKE CITY : STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. Apalachicola and other rivers are being improved by United-States Engineers. The Suwanee has been made navigable to Ellaville, 124 miles. Lake Okeechobee covers 1,000 square miles, and is from 16 to 22 feet above the sea. In ^ ^,^, rainy times it overspreads vast areas of the Everglades, and floods entire townships. The Everglades is a vast and luxuriant swamp of 7,500 square miles, during the rainy season (from July to October) covered with from one to ten feet of pure and clear water, abounding in fish, and studded with islands, some of them containing hundreds of acres of cypresses and pines, palmettoes and magnolias. The United States patented to Florida nearly 20,000,000 acres of land, of which the State had on her hands, in 1881, 12,758,000 acres unsold, but encumbered by a lien (the Vose Judgment) of nearly f 1,000,000, largely on account of railroad construction. In 1881, Hamilton Disston and others of Philadelphia paid f 1,000, 000 for 4,000,000 acres, and formed the Florida Land and Improvement Company, which has since acquired vast additional tracts, besides selling 2,000,000 acres to Sir Edward Reed and other British capitalists. This enterprising company also offered to drain the Everglades and lower its lakes, if half the redeemed territory (in alternate sec- tions) should be granted them. The new drainage area extends 85 miles from Lake Tohopekaliga to Lake Okeechobee, and thence a broad canal leads west- ward to the Caloosahatchee River. Okeechobee has fallen two feet, and 4,000 miles of rich lands have been reclaimed for the cultivation of sugar and fruit, for which the climate seems peculiarly adapted. The State contains 1,200 clear lakes, which agree- ably diversify its otherwise monotonous scenery. Many of them cover more than 50 square miles each, like Chipola and Miccosukee, Apopka and Kis- simmee, George and Tohopekaliga. The Climate varies, from that of North Florida, with a temperature ranging from 98° to 19°, to that of the central counties, 100° to 25", and of South Florida, 96° to 30°, while the temperature of the latter shows marked inequalities. Key West being several de- grees cooler than Punta Rassa, a long way to the northward. The prolonged heats of South Florida are perilous to unacclimated persons, and especially to those with a tendency to malarial and typhoid fevers, who should keep north of 29° from March until November. Febrile and bilious patients should avoid Florida. The winters are distinguished by fre- quent rains, especially on the Gulf side, and by occasional light frosts in North and Central Florida, sometimes resulting disastrously for the orange groves. The climate is in the main remarkably equable and healthy, except near the wet lands of the south. It has been said that the Florida year is made up of eight months of summer and four months of warm weather. The summer temperature is more even than that of the North. The cool and salty sea-breezes blow clear across the peninsula during the day, and at night the returning Gulf winds blow from the westward. North of 29^ the climate resembles that of Algiers, Sicily, Greece, Cyprus, Syria and Armenia. The winters are like the Indian summers among the pines. A FLORIDA BICYCLE. THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 171 of the North. Mrs. Stowe pronounced the St John's country "a child's Eden." The winter climate is singu- larly dry and healthful, and resembles that of Southern Cali- fornia, without its dust. It is warmer on the Atlantic coast than along the Gulf, owing to the Gulf Stream, which hugs the shore from Biscayne Bay to Jupiter Inlet. The climates of Florida cannot be desciibed in a paragraph, for they show wide differences, even between points so near as Jacksonville and Palatka, and still more between the Tallahassee country and the sub-tropical South. Among the ailments benefited by a season in Florida are consumption, phthisis, brain-exhaustion, dyspepsia, nervous prostration, rheumatism, and throat and bronchial troubles. The health-seeker must be careful not to' return too early in the season to the cold Northland. Florida is divided into three sec- tions, as to its soil: (i) the oak, hick- ory and pine uplands in the northwest, covering 2,300 square miles of fairly good red- loam, brown-loam, and pine-ridge lands, with noble trees and small crops ; (2) the long-leaf- pine lands of north and central Florida, the high rolling region of dark sandy loam (with its groups of beautiful lakes, high-arched forests, and rising villages), the water-soaked flat pine-lands toward the coasts, and the verdant and fertile hammocks or swamp-surrounded knolls, crowned with oranges, live-oaks, pal- mettoes and cypresses; and (3) the pitch-pine and allutial lands of the south, where prairies and savannas alternate with flat woods and swamps, a rich soil, adapted to coffee, rice, sugar-cane, guavas, pineapples and bananas. The best pine-lands have a dark vegetable mould, on deep chocolate-colored sandy and limy loam, apparently inexhaustible. The second-rate pine-lands are high and rolling, healthy and well-watered, heavily timbered, and with good natural pasturage. About 25,000,000 acres are covered with woods, nearly three fourths of which is the valuable pitch-pine, the rest including pine, oak, sweet-gum, royal palm, bay-laurel, magnolia, cedar, beech, mahogany, satin-wood, lignum-vit?e, green ebony, mangrove, cork-tree and olive — in all 200 species of trees. Many large saw-mills in West Florida are devoted to getting out the pitch (or Georgia) pine lumber. Live-oak, for ship- building, is a large product of the northeast ; and western Florida finds profit in tar, rosin, and pitch, and distilling turpentine. Lumbering is the foremost industry of the State, and yields $20,000,000 a year. The immense levels of Florida are broken only in the north- NDIAN R VER west, by a few hills of 300 feet JACKSONVILLE : FLORIDA SUB-TROPICAL EXPOSITION, in height. On the whole peninsula there is no eminence equalling 100 feet. The land on these vast levels is ex- — -* ceedingly rich, for the most part, the chief difli- ^ culty being in clearing it. The Farm- Products of the Slate include yearly 4,500,000 bushels of corn, 600,000 bushels of oats, 1,300,000 pounds of rice, 1,000,000 gal- lons of molasses, 1,500 hogsheads of sugar, with tea and coffee, flax and hemp, barley and hops, peas and beans. It bears but little wheat or hay. 172 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. KEY WEST : MARINE HOSPITAL. The cotton crop is 60,000 bales, valued at .14,000,000, and including much Sea-Island cotton. The northeastern counties send ship- loads of early vegetables and berries to the Northern cities. The tobacco industry, after many years of neglect, is now assuming great proportions, especially in the rich Suvvannce- River country, and broad areas have been planted with the best of Cuba and Sumatra seed. The yearly product now reaches nearly $700,000, and increases every season. There are 50 varieties of oranges cultivated here, the Florida fruit holding the preeminent rank over all the oranges of the world. Fully 10,000 square miles are adapted to this delicious fruit, and 100,000 acres are in orange-groves ; and already the yearly crop reaches 2,250,000 boxes (150 in a box). About $10,000,000 is invested in the orange-groves, and the yearly [iroduct is valued at nearly $2,000,000. The St. -John's and Halifax-River regions are perfectly adapted to this fine fruit. The oranges grow on graceful straight gray-barked trees, from 15 to 30 feet high, with large shining leaves and delicate white and fragrant blossoms. The line of migration of the orange has been from southeastern Asia to Syria and Spain ; and the cavaliers of the latter country brought it to Florida. It is raised largely in 21 counties, the main product coming from Lake, Marion, Putnam, Orange and Volusia. The choicest fruit is the juicy and thin-skinned variety growing along the richly fertile shores of the Indian River, under the intimate warmth of the Gulf Stream. The grape-fruit grows more easily than the orange, and hangs in clusters (whence its name). The shaddock is a larger and coarser fruit, weighing from three to five pounds, GAINESVILLE : EAST FLORIDA sEMiN/«RY. ^ud shapcd Hkc a pumpkiu. It is not much eaten. Besides the cocoanuts and pineapples of the Keys, Florida produces lemons and limes, grapes and dates, guavas and citrons, tamarinds and pomegranates, figs and olives, pears and apples, peaches and quinces. Both yellow and red bananas are grown, 1,000 plants to the acre, in rich moist soil. The Geology of peninsular Florida tells that it is founded on coral reefs, upon which Vicksburg limestone was deposited, followed by sand, pebbles and clay. The formations are so recent that they contain few valuable minerals, except the shell-limestone (cocjuina) of St. Augustine, and the Tampa and Manatee marls. Ocala has large lime-kilns. Brown lignrte occurs on the Suwanee and Blackwater. The limestone strata are full of caverns, through some of which flow crystal streams, occasionally breaking out on the surface of the ground in great "boiling springs. " Elsewhere occur the conical hollows called "sinks," sometimes covering many acres, with running water visible at the bottom. The Wakulla Spring is 400 feet wide, crystalline and ice-cold, and forming a navigable river. Silver Spring is 600 feet across, and its efflux is a navigable stream 150 feet wide. Blue Spring pours a flood of clear blue-tinted water into the Withlacoochee, from p, bowl 70 feet across and 40 feet deep. The Green- Cove, and other springs are of similar form and proportions. Florida phosphate rock was discovered in small quantities at various points aliout the year 1885, and in 1889 Dunn, Voight and Snowden found the great dunnellon ; dunnellon co.'s phosphate beds. THE STATE OE E LOR ID A. 173 DUNNELLON : DUNtJELLON PHOSPHATE BEDS. and invaluable deposits at Dunnellon. The im- portance of these finds was instantly seen, and vast sums have been invested in their development. The two chief fields are along the Gulf, for 60 miles ; and in the Withlacoochee region, where this mineral deposit, so valuable for the sandy soil of Florida, is easily procured, in inexhausti- ble bars and beds. The Dunnellon mines are in the latter region, and have already sent out many tons of phosphatic material, mainly to Europe, where it is highly prized for fertilizing purposes. Florida phosphate rock is of a creamy tint, very soft when first dug, and containing from 5 to 40 per cent, of phosphate impregnating the limestone or sandstone. The Dunnellon rock has shown in analysis 80 per cent, of phosphate of lime, on dry basis, and the fertil- izers made from it do not revert, but show a high percentage of soluble after being kept some time. The Bradley Fertilizer Company, of Boston, has a con- trolling interest in the Dunnellon property, and is the general agent for its sale. Government. — The governor is elected by the people for four years. The Legislature contains 32 four-years' senators and 68 two- years' representatives. The judiciary includes three justices of the Supreme Court ; the seven circuit courts ; the county courts and justices; and local criminal courts. Since 1880 the State finances have been redeemed ; railways have been extended, and many new towns founded ; and the orange- culture and the fisheries have been developed amazingly. The State Capitol, at Tallahassee, is a massive and roomy structure, built by the Territorial Government in 1834. The militia of Florida is composed of the Florida State Troops, enrolled in three battalions, of ten infantry and two artillery companies and 500 men. They have annual encampments, that for 1887 having been at Pablo Beach, and that for 1888 near Pensacola. There are also 15 detached volun- teer companies of infantry (seven of them colored), reporting to the Adjutant-General of Florida. The territorial militia numbers 48,000 men. The Stale Penitentiary contains 360 convicts, more than three fourths being colored men, and most of their crimes having been against property. The prisoners are kept in a stockade near Monticello, and employed in farm-labor. The Florida Insane Asylum, in the old United-States arsenal at Chattahoochee, has 250 inmates, mostly whites. The Institution for Deaf, Dumb and Blind Youths is at St. Augustine. Education. — Florida spends $500,000 a year (five times as much as in 1880) for its schools, whose efficiency is advancing continually. One fourth of the schools are for colored children, and one fourth of the teachers are negroes. The State normal colleges were founded in 1887. The one at DeFuniak Springs is attended by 60 white students; the one at Tallahassee has 52 colored students. The Florida Chautauqua has beautiful grounds and many buildings, and gives a month of lectures and studies, readings and concerts. It is at De Funiak Springs, a deep and crystalline circular lakelet, without outlet or inlet, 270 feet above and 20 miles from the Gulf, and surrounded by fragrant forests of pitch-pine. The De Funiak waters and DE LAND : JOHN B. STETSON UNIVERSITY. KEY WEST ; LIGHT-HOUSE. 174 PENSACOLA : FORT PICKENS, KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. climate have effected many cures, and arc highly esteemed in Florida. The Congregationalists founded Rollins College, at Winter Park, in 1885, and it now has four build- ings, on the shore of Lake Virginia. John B. vStetson University begun as DeLand Academy in ^-^3,1 1883, and became a Baptist school in 1887. It is ?- }!wS§5l named in honor of a well-known Philadelphia philanthropist, who has given it large sums of money. The University is at the pleasant town of Ue Land. The Methodist Episcopal Church South founded the Florida Conference Col- lege, at Leesburg, in 1886; the Methodist Episcopal Church founded the St.-John's Con- ference College, at Orange City, in 1887; the Christians founded Orange College, at Starke, in 1883. The Legislature of 1851 ordered that "two seminaries of learning shall be established, one upon the cast, the other upon the west, side of the Suwanee River." For many years these were the only public high-schools in Florida. The West-Florida Seminary is at Tal- lahassee ; the Seminary East of the Suwanee River is at Gainesville. They are military and normal institutions, with about 120 students in both. Florida Uni- versity was organized in 1883, with ST. AUGUSTINE ; FORT MARION. the West-Florida .Seminary as its literary department, and the Talla- hassee College of Medicine and Surg- ery, as a professional school ; but it endured only for a short season. The State Agri- cultural College is at Lake City, and furnishes a free collegiate course in literature, farming and military science to 80 young Floridians. The Cookman Institute is a normal and Biblical school for colored people, with 170 pupils, maintained by the Methodist Episco- pal Church, at Jacksonville. The Baptists have a similar school, at Live Oak ; and the Congregationalists opened the Florida Normal and Industrial College, near Lake City, in 1886. Florida has 275,000 church attendants. The Baptists lead the field, with 400 churches and 28,731 members. The Methodists have 19,000, the Catholics 11,000, the Presby- terians 2,500, and the Episcopalians 9,500. The pioneer in Florida journalism was The Floridiaii, founded at Tallahassee in 1828, and still in existence. The State now has eleven daily newspapers and above 1 00 weeklies. There are two papers published at Key West in the Spanish language ; the American paper being the daily Eqiiator-DcDiocrat. National Works. — Fort Marion, at St. Au- gustine, is a grand gray polygon, with a dry moat 40 feet wide. It was built in 1737-66, by Mexican convicts, part of the works having been erected as early as 1565. The dark dungeons, gray barbican, dusky passages and sea-viewing ramparts are visited st augustine monument to dade's command THE STATE OE E LOR ID A. 175 ST. AUGUSTINE : THE ALCAZAR. by bevies of wondering tourists. There is no garrison. St. -Francis Barracks, also at St. Augustine, are occupied by United- States troops. Fort Clinch, near Fernandina, has been abandoned for some years. Fort Taylor, at Key West, is a cascmented penta- gonal brick structure, erected at a cost of $1,250,000, and mounting 200 guns. There are also martello-towers on the island. The garrison was with- ^^ drawn long ago. Fort Jefferson, on Garden Key, the largest of the Dry Tor- tugas, is an enormous and powerful fortification of brick, enclosing nine acres of lawns and palm- '^^<^lW,f,ii,9.„i^ji^^ trees, oleanders and roses. It was begun in 1846, to be the military key of the Gulf, and is said to have cost $30,000,000, all its materials having been brought from New York. The officers' quarters and barracks are the best in America. During the Secession War this fortress became a National military prison. Since 1878 it has remained ungarrisoned, but a battalion has recently been ordered hither. Nearly three miles distant, across a fairy-land forest of submerged corals, rise the snow-white sands of Loggerhead Key. Fort Jefferson is 71 miles from Key West. The entrance to Pensacola is defended by Fort McRae and Fort Pickens, half a league apart, with Fort Barrancas two miles above and facing down the channel. The first two have been abandoned. They are nearly half a century old, and endured terrific bombardments during the Secession Wai\ Pensacola has an antique Navy Yard, very little used of late years; and there is a Naval Station at Key West. At night the flashes from 36 light-houses -sparkle along the Florida coast and Keys, and nearly 60 on the long St. -John's River. Chief Cities. — Jacksonville, 15 miles from the ocean, on a bend of the vSt. -John's River, is the metropolis of Florida, with large fruit-packing interests and grain trade, and some manufactures ; and entertains nearly 80,000 guests every winter season. It has a large ocean-commerce, with wharves lining the river-front for miles. The broad avenues and suburban shell-roads are I E ^ Is lined with live-oaks and fragrant flow- »;t»f J" i-J-t'^^H. .ti^ ^'"^' ^""^ afford pleasant drives. mtE^i St. Augustine, with its quaint Spanish lanes and balconied buildings, crumbl- _/Sing gates and castle, and ST. AUGUSTINE THE PONCE DE LEON. l»a "^ ■^.-■*-".' if T'.r- c ■« a noble magnolias, palms and oleanders, is the oldest city in the United States, and has the most costly and magnificent hotels in the world. Two of these, the Ponce de Leon and the Alcazar, cost $5,000,000, and are massively built of shell concrete, in semi-Saracenic Spanish-Renaissance architecture, with towers, casinos, and courtyards. The Hotel Cordova is a third magnificent Moresque structure. St. Augustine also possesses the most elaborate modern Pompeian villa in the world, designed by a British architect, with atrium, trichnia, exedra, bibliotheca and solarium. The new Presbyterian and Methodist churches are among the finest pieces of architecture in the South. On the Plaza de la Constitucion stands the old slave-market ; and the Huguenot Cemetery, the graves of Maj. Dade's command, the old convents and churches, the many attractive and interesting drives, and the vachting in the adjacent waters, furnish a great variety of interest for visitors to the American Riviera. ST. AUGUSTINE : THE PONCE DE LEON. 176 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ST. AUGUSTINE \ CATHEDRAL AND SLAVE-MARKET. Tallahassee, the capital, is purely a Southern inland city, famous for its flowers and its delightful society, and old-time traditions, and near the old Spanish fort of San Luis. The city stands on a hill 250 feet high, and overlooks many leagues of pine-forests, amid which rises the mysterious smoke of Wakulla. Pensacola, another old Spanish colony, has a noble harbor of 200 square miles, with a large export trade in lumber and fish. Fernan> dina is a pros- A perous old sea-port, exporting lumber and naval stores, with one of the best landlock- ^ ed harbors on the Atlantic coast, and a capital winter climate. A shell jMhK , t** . . . ^^vvv road leads out two miles to the firm and shining sands of Amelia Beach, twenty miles long, with hotels and cottages, and the best of surf-bath- ing. The Mallory line of steam- ships runs from Fernandina to New York. Palatka stands on a pleas- ant plateau, at the head of steam- ship navigation, 96 miles up the St. -John's, and in a rich orange country. It is an im- portant supply-depot and headquarters for travellers. Tampa, a very ancient little city, of Spanish origin, near Tampa Bay, is attaining importance for its cigar-factories, and its commerce with the West Indies. The Tampa-Bay Hotel is one of the most magnificent pleasure resorts in the Union, among the orange and palm groves and live-oaks along the Hillsborough River. Cedar Keys is one of the chief steamship ports of the Gulf coast, with a large trade in sponges and oysters, fish and turtles. The Railroads of Florida have developed their lines rapidly since the war, and have perfected their northern connections, so that Pullman vestibuled trains run from Jacksonville to New York in 30 hours, and to Cincinnati in 28 hours. The Florida Central & Peninsular Railroad runs southwest 156 miles, from Fernandina to Cedar Keys ; west 232 miles, from Jacksonville to the Chattahoochee River (where it connects with the Louisvillle & Nashville line); and south from Waldo to Tampa, 159 miles; with branches to Tavares (for Sanford and Orlando) and St. Mark's. The Jacksonville, Tampa & Key-West Railroad ascends the St. -John's River to Enterprise, and ends at Titusville, the metro- polis of the Indian-River country. The Orange-Belt line runs southwest 157 miles from Sanford to St. Petersburg, on Tampa Bay. The Florida Southern, South Florida, and other lines traverse long distances of the lower peninsula. The Plant system includes a large part of the Florida lines. The Atlantic Coast Line runs superb trains from Boston and New York through to Florida. Steamboats run daily from Jacksonville to Sanford in 18 hours; and smaller steamers run thence to Lake Harney. Another line runs from Palatka to Welaka, on the St. -John's, and thence 200 miles up the Ocklawaha River. A favorite tourist-route lies along the beautiful semi-tropical lagoons of the eastern coast, from Ormond-on-thc- Halifax, or from Daytona, along the sparkling green waters of the Halifax River, with sea-beaches and light-houses on one side, and pleasant embowered villages on the other. Below Mosquito Inlet, the steamboats enter Hillsborough Lagoon, and thence pass into Indian River by a canal at the Haul- over. Here they visit the maritime Titusville and the beau- tiful pleasure-resort at Rockledge and Jupiter. The most southerly railroad in the United States runs from Jupiter to Lake Worth, whose little steamboats visit several villages, the luxurious winter-homes of rich Northern gentlemen. st. augustine : old gate. AUGUSTINE TREASURY STREET. 321,716 40>496 , 100,499 $8,065,221 92,000,000 75,oco,ooo 59.475 II 4,040 137 1,991 4,532 The aborigines of Geor- gia were the Cherokees, with 6,000 warriors, occupying the highlands, north of 34° (the line of Elberton, Ath- ens and Marietta) ; and the various tribes of the Mus- cogee or Creek Confedera- tion, numbering 15,000 per- sons in Georgia, south of 34°. In the year i54oDe Soto and his 600 Spaniards marched from the Ocklokonee to the Ocmulgee, and to Silver Bluff, on the Savannah, 25 miles below Augusta, where they abode for some days. The army ascended the Savannah Valley to Franklin County and Mt. Yonah, and traversed the Alleghanies, by Coosa- wattee and Chiaha(Rome), entering Alabama by the Coosa. Everywhere they sought gold, and 20 years later Tristan de Luna and 300 Spanish soldiers marched from Pensacola to Cherokee Georgia, and opened mines which were worked for over a century. The foundation of Georgia is due to the benevolence of Gen. James Edward Oglethorpe, a veteran of Prince Eugene of Savoy's staff, and afterwards a member of Parliament, who established here a place where insolvents, prisoners for debt, and other unfortunates might begin the world anew, and where religious freedom should be accorded (except to Catholics). Parliamentary grants of ^/^ 180, 000 were made to further these objects ; and Oglethorpe sailed from Eng- land in the Anne, and reached Savannah (by way of Char- leston), February i, 1733, with 116 immigrants in his com- pany. The Creeks received these new neighbors hospitably, and they soon spread out over Darien, Augusta, St. Simon's Island and other localities. To this haven of peace came colonies of Hebrews, Moravians and Lutherans, and many Bavarians and Scottish Highlanders. In 1736 John and Charles Wesley came over with parties of Methodists ; and two years later George Whitefield founded the Bethesda Home, near Savannah. When the war broke out between England and Spain, in 1739, Gen. Settled at Savannah. Settled in 1703 Founded by . . . Englishmen. One of the 13 Original States. Population, in i860, . . . 1,057,286 In 1870, 1,184,109 In 1880 1,542,180 White, 816,906 Colored, 725,274 American burn, . . . 1,531,216 Foreign-born 10,564 Males, 762,981 Females, 779,199 In 1890(17. S. census), 1,837,353 White 973,462 Colored, 863,716 Voting Population, Vote for Harrison (18 Vote for Cleveland (i Net State debt (189c), Real Property, . . . Personal Property, Area (square r.iiles), . U. S. Representatives (1893), i\Iilitia (Disciplined), . . . Counties Post-offices, Railroads (miles) Manufactures (yearly), . . Farm 1 and (in acres), . 26,000,000 Farm Products (yearly)8ii2,ooo,ooo School Buildings, .... 8,oco Average School-Attendance, 226,000 Newspapers, 291 Latitude 30021' to 35° N. Longitude, . . 80=48' to 85040' N. Mean Temperature (Atlanta), 61.1° Mean Temperature (Savannah) 65.5° TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) Atlanta, 65,533 Savannah, ... ... 43,189 Augusta, 33.300 Macon, 22,746 Columbus, 17.303 Athens, 8,639. Brunswick 8,459 Rome . 6,957 Americus 6,398 Thomasville 5.5'4 AUGUSTA : SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 178 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Oglethorpe led 1,000 troops against St. Augustine, and was beaten off. In 1742 Don Manuel de Monteano attacked Frederica with 50 vessels and 5,000 men, Florida and Cuban in- fantry, Spanish marines and Italic dragoons, and was defeated by Gen. Oglethorpe and 652 Georgians, with heavy loss. But two causes worked against the success of the colony : the onerous military duties demanded, which caused many to migrate to the Carolinas, and the prohibition of slavery. The latter was removed in 1 750. The trustees of the colony were its law-makers (without pay), until 1752, when a governor and council were appointed by the British « King. In 1775 Gov. Sir James Wright fled, and Georgia, then a Province of 70,000 \ people, sent delegates to the Continental Congress. In 1778-79 British fleets and fT armies captured Savannah, Augusta and Sunbury, repulsing the assault of Lincoln and D'Estaing on the first-named town. After Charleston ~' fell, Georgia was the scene of a bit-ter guerilla warfare, until Gen. Greene pacified the State. The territory of Georgia originally included the region be- tween the Savannah and the Altamaha ; and in 1763, after the wars with France and Spain, it was extended south to St. Mary's '^}- and west to the Mississippi River. In 1803 the State ceded to the Republic 100,000 square miles, west of the Chattahoochee, and out of this imperial domain Alabama and Mississippi were formed. The Creeks ceded to the United States, by the treaty of Fort Wilkinson, in 1802, the greater part of southwestern Georgia. In 1838 the Cherokees were transported to the West. When the secession movement began, in i860, Stephens and Johnson and others strenu- ously resisted it, their opponents being Toombs and Cobb. For a time it seemed as if the State would not secede, and the mountaineers of remote Cherokee Georgia never joined that movement, but caused much trouble to the Confederate authorities. Yet when the question came up for a vote of the people, 50,243 chose secession, to 37,123 voting for the Union. The chief events of the civil war on the Georgia coast were the occupation of Big Tybee Island by DuPont's Federal fleet (November 25, 1861), and the surrender of Fort Pulaski (April li, 1862), after a bombardment from Gen. Q. A. Gillmore's batteries on Tybee Island, which levelled much of its walls. DuPont captured and garrisoned Darien, St. Simon's Island, Brunswick and St. Mary's, and destroyed the Confederate cruiser Nashville in the Ogeechee River. The monitor Weehaivkcii captured the Atlanta, a Confederate ironclad, below Savannah. In the autumn of 1863, Thomas's and McCook's Federal corps entered northwestern Georgia, over Lookout Mountain, and flanked the Confederate army out of Chattanooga, compelling its retreat down the Western & Atlantic Railroad. Then suddenly Bragg and Longstreet turned, and threw themselves upon Rosecrans's advancing forces, at Chickamauga, and defeated them, in a three-days' engage- ment, driving them back to Chattanooga. In this costly battle, 112,000 men were engaged, and one fourth of them met with death or wounds. Some regiments lost over 60 per cent, of their men. Viewing the num- bers engaged, and the time, Chickamauga was by far the bloodiest battle of modern times. In May, 1864, Sherman advanced from Chattanooga, and after heavy fighting at Resaca, New Hope Church, Kennesaw Moun- tain, and many other points, pressed Johnston's army beyond the Chatta- hoochee, and besieged Atlanta, which was defended by Hood. Within a month the two armies lost 20,000 men about this city, and then Hood retreated and Sherman occupied the place, early in September. November 15, 1864, Sherman burned Atlanta, and began the famous "March to the Sea," with 62,000 men and 65 cannon, spread in a width of forty miles, repulsing the attacks of the Confederates. Macon, Milledgeville, Millen and other towns augusta ; old bell-tower. THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 179 GRAND CHASM, TUGALOO RIVER. were captured, and finally Ilazen stormed Fort McAllister, and Ilardcc was compelled to evacuate Savannah. Three weeks later Sherman left a garrison at Savannah and started on his march through the Carolinas. For a few weeks Georgia possessed no government except that of the United-States generals, and then James Johnson became provisional gover- nor. In April, 1865, Wilson's Federal cavalry swept over Columbus and West Point, and near Irwinville, May loth, captured Jefferson Davis. In i860 Georgia had 462,198 slaves and 3,500 free negroes; in 1S80 it had 725,135 free colored people. Under the Reconstruction Acts of 1867, Georgia was placed in General Pope's military command, and the next year the new constitution was framed, and a governor inaugurated, upon which the control of the State passed to the civil authorities. In spite of the devastation of war, the State gained 127,432 in population between i860 and 1870. Since 1880, a rapid and healthy development has gone forward, and the cotton shipments of Atlanta, Rome and Columbus, the cotton-mills of Augusta and Atlanta, the glass-works of Tallapoosa and many other industries have risen to commanding proportions. In general industrial and business development Georgia leads all the South Atlantic States; and with her noble railway system, her maritime facilities, and her agricultural and mineral wealth, lias a glorious future in view. She was the latest of the Atlantic States to be founded, hut her growth has been steady and vigorous, and she has become one of the leaders in the great sisterhood of States, filled with the splendid thrill of modern enterprise and development, and the fervor of a noble and patriotic American spirit. The Name of the State is thus derived : "The projected colony was called Georgia in honor of the reigning monarch of England [George II.], who had graciously sanctioned a charter so liberal in its provisions, and granted a territory so extensive and valuable for the encouragement of the plantation." It is now often called The Empire State of the South, in allusion to its rapid and enterprising industrial development. The Arms of Georgia, adopted in 1799, show an arch inscribed with the word Con- stitution, and upheld by three pillars, representing the legislative, judicial and executive departments. Under the arch stands a man with a drawn sword, typifying the military power ready to defend the Constitution. The Governors of Georgia up to the foundation of the State government numbered 24. The State Governors have been : Geo. Walton, 1 789-90 ; Edw. Telfair, 1790-3; Geo. Matthews, 1793-6; Jared Irwin, 1796-8; Jas. Jackson, 1 798-1 801 ; David Emanuel, (acting), 1801 ; Josiah Tattnall, 1801-2; John Milledge, 1802-6; Jared Irwin, 1806-13 and 1815-7; Peter Farly, 1813-5; Wm. Raburn, 1817-9; Matthew Talbot (acting), 1819 ; John Clark, 1819-23; George M. Troup, 1823-7; John Forsyth, 1827-9; Geo. R. Gilmer, 1829-31 and 1837-9; Wilson Lumpkin, 1831-5 ; Wm. Schley, 1835-7; Chas. J. McDonald, 1839-43; Geo. W. Crawford, 1843-7; ^'^o. W. B. Towns, 1847-51 ; Howell Cobb, 1851-3; Herschell V. Johnson, 1853-7; Joseph E. Brown, 1857-65; Jas. Jcjhnson (provisional), 1865; Chas. J. Jenkins, 1865-9 ; Rufus B. Bullock, 1869-72 ; Jas. Mil- ton Smith, 1872-7; Alfred II. Colquitt, 1877-82; Alex. H. Stephens, 1883; Henry D. McDaniel, 1883-6; John B.Gordon, 18S6-90; W. J. Northen, 1890-2. Geography. — Georgia is the largest State east of the Mississippi, a massive and compact domain of five sides, with its centre near Jeffersonville, which is also the centre of the colored population of the Republic. It lies in the latitude of Algiers, Asia Minor, Persia, Tibet, and Arizona. When the sun rises here it is noon in Switzerland, sundown in China, and midnight on the brunswick : m the pines. I So A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. KENNESAW MOUNTAIN. Pacific. Georgia is divided into three great sections, Lower, Middle and Upper, with widely different climates and products. Lower Georgia includes more than half the State, with an area of 35,000 square miles, covering the Pine-barrens and sand-hills, the Swamp Belt and the Sea Islands. Here also is the dark and impenetrable Okefinokee Swamp, 180 miles around, a region of dead pools and lonely islands, inhabited by bears and wildcats, and huge alli- gators and other reptiles. The inner recesses of this vast jungle have never betn visited. The peninsulas of high and arable land pushed into the swamp are called cow-houses, because the planters used to pasture cattle upon them, with a man at each isthmus to guard them. These places are inhabited by a primitive and hospitable people, who go out occasionally to buy salt, coffee, and tobacco. Lower Georgia includes the sea-coast, 128 miles long, or, count- ing the sounds and islands, 480 miles. The Sea Islands cover 500 square miles, and are overgrown with great live-oak and palmetto woods. The cultivation of cotton, once so prominent among these unhealthy lowlands, has now greatly fallen off. Jekyl Island, where the last cargo of slaves brought into the United States was landed, from the Wanderer, is owned by a club of Northern gentlemen whose wealth aggregates $500,000,000. It is one of the largest game-preserves in America, abounding in pheasants and quail, wild turkeys and deer, and has a costly club-house and admirable roads, with a sea-fronting beach thirteen miles long. Cumberland Island is 30 miles long, with magnificent forests of oaks, palmettos and palms. It was in olden times occupied by the Dungeness estate of Gen. Nathaniel Greene, of the Revolutionary army. This house has been replaced by the beautiful mansion of Mrs. Thomas Carnegie, of Pittsburgh. Light-Horse Harry Lee was buried at Cumberland, and Count Pulaski on St. Helen's Island. Among the other islands are Ossabaw and St. Simon, Sapelo and St. Catherine. The sounds of St. Andrew and St. Simon, Doboy and Sapelo, St. Catherine and Ossabaw have inlets from the sea, and are navigable for hundred-ton ves- sels. The harbors of Savannah, Darien, Brunswick and St. Mary's have from 14 to 17 feet of water at low tide. The foreign export trade exceeds $20,000,000 a year, nearly all being cotton and naval stores, shipped from Savannah. The coasting-trade shipment is largely in excess of this, and includes early fruits and vegetables, fish and lumber, cotton and naval stores. Most of the domestic shipments are made from Brunswick and St. Mary's, the other two ports of entry in Georgia. Georgia has a mercantile fleet of 133 vessels, of 36,000 tons. These waters are famous for their fisheries, of pompano, red-snappers, sea-trout, Spanish mackerel and green turtle. The extensive Savannah and Ogeechee fisheries send the fast shad to the North. For a score of miles inland the land is about twelve feet above the sea. Then it mounts up to 80 feet, which average elevation it retains for 20 miles farther inland, rising there to 1 50 feet. In the next hundred miles, up to the falls of the rivers, the general height in- creases to 570 feet. The Hill Country, or Middle Georgia, includes an area of 15,000 square miles, between the falls of the rivers and the foot-hills of 1,000 feet high. The southern part is a broad plateau, breaking towards the north into parallel ranges of high hills, and rich in secluded valleys. The soil is a red loam, very much impoverished by long and exhaustive cultivation. Upper Georgia, otherwise known as the Moun- tain Region, or Cherokee Georgia, is a country -.■s;^^ -T-Zfr' STONE MOUNTAIN. THE STATE OE GEORGIA. i8i TOCCOA FALLS. of great landscape beauty, covering lo,ooo square miles of the Appalachian Range and its higher foot-hills. The Blue Ridge of Virginia and the Carolinas enters the State at its northwestern corner, and ends abruptly in the Atlanta region. In and near the odd angle of Georgia pushed up between the two Carolinas occur the noblest crests of this range : Sitting Bull (5,046 feet) and Mona (5,039), as the two peaks of Nantihala are called ; Mount Enotah, or the Brasstown Bald (4,797); and the Rabun Bald (4,718), not far from Rabun Gap. This region also contains the beautiful Tallulah and Toccoa Falls, and other famous cascades ; and many a charming valley, like Rabun and Nachoochee. The famous Nicojack Cave, in the Raccoon Mountains, is entered through a portal 160 feet wide and 60 feet high. The stream issuing thence may be ascended for three miles by boats, to a waterfall. Stone Mountain is one of the largest masses of granite in the world, and attains a height of 2,220 feet. Twenty miles west of the Blue Ridge rises the Cohutta range, 3,000 feet high, continuous with the Unaka Mountains of Tennessee, and fading away in the Dugdown Mountain of Alabama. The northwestern cor- ner of Georgia is occupied by Lookout and Sand Mountains, and their great plateaus, hallowed by the best blood of the Republic, during Sherman's and Johnston's campaign. The rivers of Georgia are grouped in the Atlantic, Gulf and Tennessee systems. The first includes the vSavannah, flowing south southeast 450 miles from the confluence of the Tugaloo and Kee- wee, in the Blue Ridge, and navigable for ships to Savannah, 18 miles ; for steamboats to Augusta, 291 ; and (passing around the falls by the canal) for 150 miles farther (to Petersburg or Andersonville) by poleboats. Below Augusta many rich cotton plantations line the shores ; and farther down are broad rice-fields, succeeded by weird swamps whose live oaks are hung with gray moss. Sloops ascend the Ogeechee for 40 miles, and keelboats go up as far as Louisville, 150 miles. The river is 200 miles long. The tributary river, the Cannonchee, is navigable for 50 miles. In the southeast are the Satilla and St. Mary's Rivers, each with 50 miles of sloop-navigation. The Oconee (navigable to Mil- ledgeville, the ancient capital), and the Ocmulgee (navigable to Hawkinsville, and formerly to Macon) rise in the Blue Ridge, and flow in parallel courses for 250 miles, uniting to form the Altamaha, which reaches the sea 155 miles from their con- fluence. Large vessels ascend to Darien. The Gulf system of rivers culminates in the Chat- tahoochee, 450 miles long, and navigable by large steamboats for 300 miles, from the Gulf up to Columbus. This river flows from the Blue Ridge down through the gold country, forming the frontier of Georgia and Alabama from West Point to Florida, breaking into white rapids and then into valuable falls at Colum- bus. At the Florida line the Flint River (navi- gable 250 miles up from the Gulf, to Albany) joins the Chattahoochee, and the two form the Appa- ^^^ lachicola River. The Withlacoochee and AUa- paha form the Suwanee. The Oostenaula and Etowah unite at Rome to form the Coosa ; and the Tallapoosa, another tributary of the Alabama, also rises in Georgia. The Oostenaula is navigable by steamboats from Rome to Carter's Landing, TALLULAH FALLS. BRUNSW.CK . ^O.ERS LIVE OAK. l82 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 105 miles ; and steamers ply on the Coosa from Rome to Greensport, 1 53 miles. In the north- west rise the rivers of the Tennessee Basin, draining 1,000 square miles of blue limestone country, with many rich and beautiful valleys. Climate. — Upper Georgia has a healthy and diversified climate, 60° in the valleys, and 50*^ on the The summer ter tempera- heights, with frequent snows in winter, and a clear and bracing air. mean is 75-3°; the winter mean, 42.8°. Middle Georgia has a win- ture of 47.2°, with occasional ephemeral snows, and a summer mean of 79°, with little rain and comfortably cool nights. The rich and swampy low country enjoys a delightful winter cli- mate (48° to 54°), but the six-months summer induces malar- ial, bilious and typhoid fevers, especially in unacclimated persons. The summer mean is 81.3°. The pine-barrens are SAVANNAH : CHATHAM-CO. COURT-HOUSE, morc hcalthv. The evergreen live-oaks of Georgia are famous for their excellence as ship-lumber, and grow abundantly in the southeast, finding their shipping-port at Brunswick. There are a score of other varieties of oaks ; six kinds of pines, including the valuable yellow pine ; six of hickories, the ash, chestnut, chinquapin, persimmon, haw, sweet -gum, magnolia, cypress, sycamore, tulip and other trees. Over 200,000,000 feet of lumber and timber, valued at $7,000,000, are shipped yearly. The great pine-barrens produce generously tar, pitch, tur- pentine and resin, of which more than $3,000,000 worth have been shipped from Savannah and Brunswick in a single year, much of it to foreign ports. The enormous product of the pine-trees of Georgia, in the way of naval stores, is shipped almost entirely from Savannah, whose wharves are sometimes laden with 100,000 barrels of these articles. Great attention has been paid since the war to this trade, and a large propor- tion of the turpentine and rosin used in the world passes out from the wharves of Savannah, the fore- most shipping-port for naval stores. Turpentine is an oleo-resinous substance obtained from in- cisions in pine-trees, and used for mixing var- nishes and paints ; and rosin is its residuum after distillation, and finds its use in soap-making. The chief commercial house handling these valuable products of the forest is Peacock, Hunt & Co., of Savannah, who have an honor- able distinction as the largest naval -stores factors in the world. They facilitate the course of trade by making cash advances to the manufacturers, and selling their goods on commis- sion. This business was founded in 1877, and has a capital of $500,000. It represents 150 manufacturers of naval stores, whose yearly product reaches 80,000 barrels of spirits of tur- pentine and 320,000 barrels of rosin, valued at $2,500,000. Farming. — Cotton is the staple crop of the light and sandy soils of southwestern Geor- gia, and also comes in great quantities from the central counties and the sandy valleys of the north. This is the third State in the product of cotton, and has sent out nearly 1,000,000 bales in a single year, including the bulk of the famous Sea-Island (or long-staple) cotton. Since the freeing of the slaves most of them have worked on the plantations on shares, vary- ing from one third to one half of the crop. Corn is grown all o.ver the State, to the extent of nearly 40,000,000 bush- els a year. Wheat, oats, clover, tobacco, sorghum and pea- nuts are also produced in great quantities. Before the war, rice was raised on the bottom-lands of southern Georgia to the amount of 50,000,000 pounds a year. The crop has never since then reached such figures, but is increas- ing from year to year, in spite of formidable competition SAVANNAH Ttelfair ART-GALLERY. from China. Sugar-canc grows frccly in the lowlands. SAVANNAH ; PEACOCK, HUNT i CO. 'S NAVAL STORES. THE STATE OE GEORGL4. SLOPE MINE, DADE COUNTY: GEORGIA MINING, MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT COMPANY. Sweet potatoes form one of the chief exports, reaching 5,000,000 bushels a year. The fruits of Middle Geor- gia include the Scuppernong and Herbemont grapes, apples and pears in great variety, and luscious peaches. Fruits ripen 30 days sooner than at the North, and the truckers of the lowlands send immense quantities to New York, together with early cabbages and onions, beans and peas, potatoes and cucumbers. The low- lands produce oranges and lemons, bananas and olives, figs and mulberries, and early strawberries. The Georgia fruit-crop reaches nearly $1,000,000 in value. The watermelons of this region have long been famous as the best in the world. Besides the vast local consumption, millions are shipped North every season. It may be noted as a singular fact that Georgia has 144,000 mules (valued at .$13,754,000) to 106,000 horses ($8,736,000). There are also 1,000,000 cattle, worth $12,500,000; 500,000 sheep, worth $800,000; and 1,600,000 hogs, worth $5,500,000. The Geology of Georgia shows the variegated and plastic clays and deep white sands of the Southern Drift or Quartenary period, over the Tertiary, Eocene, Miocene, and Plio- cene, of the \ji\\ Counti} ; ihc cretaceous group, in the west and on the Ogeechee ; the ,^^ ^^^ metamorphic granites, gneisses and schists of Mid- ji- ^^1 die and Northern Georgia, north of the Augusta- ' 1 Macon-Columbus line, crossed by triassic trap-dikes and slates, and containing everywhere small quan- tities of gold and silver ; the Palalozoic sandstones, shales and limestones of the Blue Ridge ; and the carboniferous beds of the Northwest. Minerals. — The Alabama coal-beds run into northwestern Georgia, covering 200 square miles, and offering vast deposits of excellent bituminous coal, much in demand at the smelting-furnaces. The chief mines are in Dade County. Providentially near the coal-beds and limestone hills occur immense de- posits of red fossiliferous iron ore, covering 350 square miles. Shinbone Mountain, running for 40 miles parallel to Lookout Mountain, is rich in this valuable mineral, which extends into the Lookout and Pigeon Mountains. Other ores of iron occur in great beds in the Chattoogata and Cohutta ranges. One of the largest and most important corporations in the world-renowned "New South" is the Georgia Mining, Manufacturing and Investment Company, under the presidency of Julius L. Brown, with his father. Senator Joseph E. Brown, as Vice-President ; Franklin Weld, of Boston, General Manager ; and Elijah A. Brown, Treasurer. The headquarters are at Atlanta. The paid-up capital is $1,000,000. This corporation owns all of the stock and operates the properties of The Dade and The Castle Rock Coal Companies, with lands in Dade County, and in Alabama and Tennessee, with their connecting rail- ways and coke-ovens ; The Georgia Iron & Coal Com- pany, and the Bartow Iron & Manganese Company, owning immense deposits and mines of manganese and hematite iron ores, and their railroads, near Car- tersville ; the Walker Iron & Coal Company, with its great Rising-Fawn furnace, and lands on Lookout Mountain, rich in fossil iron ores and coal ; and The ':;^:^;'.i,rir:^^.^:^\:Z^^. RISING FAWN FURNACE : GEORGIA MINING, MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT COMPANY. KING'S HANDBOOfC OF THE UNITED STATES. HYDRAULIC MINING BARTON COUNTY GEORGIA MINING, MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT CO Chattanooga Iron Company, with its furnace. Its two furnaces produce 1 60 tons of pig iron daily ; and its mines produce 160,000 tons of coal and coke a year. The total acreage of lands is about 48,000, with 227 miles of railroad. The union of so many vast and valuable properties under one control en- sures a most favorable advantage for the company to cheaply produce pig iron, concentrating under one management the mining of manganese, of iron ore, of coal, and the manufacture of coke by cheap labor which the company controls. The recent development of Georgia marble com- menced in 1885, since which time immense quanti- ties have been quarried, and the product has been distributed all over the United States. The principal advantages that this marble has over others are unusual strength and density, conclusively shown by tests and experiments made by expert authorities. It will not absorb moisture, and consequently does not disintegrate in any climate. This fact also renders it valuable for interior decorations, as it cannot be injured by any discoloring agents. The crushing strength averages 750 tons per square foot. The Georgia Marble Company is one of the most notable industries on this continent. It represents a value of several million dollars. It owns 6,172 acres of solid beds of marble, at Tate, in Pickens County ; and here there are five large quarries, equipped with the best mod- ern machinery, and producing 2,000 cubic feet of marble daily. Other features of this great plant are the three finely-equipped mills for saw- ing marble ; eight steam derricks ; a travelling derrick 500 feet long, capable of storing 200,000 cubic feet of stone ; 30 steam machines for cutting marble in quarries; 16 steam boilers; complete machine-shops; 50 buildings, including tenement-houses ; and a standard-gauge railway of nearly seven miles, with loco- motives and equipments. The marble is produced in many different tints, as white, white with dark spots and veins, dark mottled and variegated blue, pink, salmon, orange and olive. This beautiful material is sent all over the United States, and used not only for the walls of buildings and their interior decoration in floors and wainscots, and mantels, but also for monuments and tombs, drug-counters and soda-fountains, imposing stones, butchers' and fish-mongers' tables, and many other ornamental and industrial purposes. It is a true crystalline marble, pre-eminent in strength, and showing a wonderful variety of colors. One of its chief virtues is an invincible non-absorbent quality, and this ability to resist all liquids gives it a peculiar value for public buildings. The deposits already bored and tested are sufficient in quantity to supply the world for centuries. Already the Creole, Etowah, Kennesaw, and Cherokee marbles of this company are widely in use throughout the Union, especially in banks, hotels, and office-buildings, besides for the ex- teriors of some of the finest houses in the country. The product of the Georgia Marble Co. TATE : GEORGIA MARBLE COMPANY'S DEEP QUARRY. was at first mainly used at Chicago, Cincinnati TATE: GEORGIA MARBLE COMPANY. WATERMELON CULTURE. THE STATE OF GEORGIA and other western cities, where there are many buildings con- structed thereof. As its fame became more widely known, large eastern orders came in, and now the business of the ' company reaches nearly every State, and the new product, whose existence was hardly known six years ago, is now one of the great staple commodities of the country. The Kennesaw marble is partly clear and sparkling white, and partly like veined Italian, in spots and lines of pale blue. '■ The Creole marble is a dark mottled variety, blue-black on a -^ clear white or gray ground, giving a very rich and beautiful effect. The 'Cherokee is white, or blueish gray, with darker spots and clouds. The Etowah includes pink, salmon and rose tints, and dark green shades, and many variegations and blendings thereof. Sometimes it has a peculiarly delicate and beautiful amethystine color. Gold was discovered in Habersham County in 1831, and the United-States Mint at Dahlonega coined over $6,000,000 between 1837 and 1861. The town of Dahlonega stands on the gold-belt, and precious nuggets and dust are found in its streets. Hydraulic mines were once worked, and much free placer gold rewarded the treasure-seekers. The word Dahlonega is Indian for "Yellow Gold." When the white Americans learned of the presence of the precious metal in this region, they entered on all sides, although the country by treaty and occupation belonged to the Cherokees ; and this invasion has always since been known as "the intrusion." Of recent years, northern capitalists have taken some interest in the abandoned gold-mines of Georgia, and the long lethargy which has enwrapped these hills seems to be nearly at an end. It is possible that in the remote depths of the mountain -land there may be vast treasuries of gold, to be discovered and exploited by future generations. During their palmy days, the gold-fields of the Southern Alleghany Mountains yielded over f 20,000,000. The coins minted at Dahlonega bore an initial letter D. The old mint and its ten acres of grounds were given by Congress to the State of Georgia in 187 1 ; and pertain to the North Georgia Agricultural College, a branch of the University of Georgia. The Cohutta Mountains have deposits of iron and maganese, lead, silver and gold. The State contains many other minerals, including mica and plumbago, soapstone and white and pale-green talc, asbestos and gypsum, kaolin and fire-clay, marl and phosphate, magnesia and barytes, copper and pyrites. Granite, slate and sandstone are quarried in great quantities, and diamonds, opals, rubies and other gems have been found, but in limited number, and of small value. The Government rests in a governor and executive officers elected by the people every two years. The governor appoints the commissioner of schools, and the railroad commissioners are elected by the General Assembly. The biennially-meeting General Assembly contains 44 senators and 175 representatives, elected for two years. The Supreme Court has three justices, and there are superior and county courts, and courts of ordinary. The Constitution of 1868 excludes slavery and secession ; makes duellists ineligible to vote or hold office ; and gives the suffrage to every male citizen of Georgia. The Capitol, at Atlanta, is an imposing structure of Indiana stone, finished in 18S8, at a cost of $862,000, the funds coming from a special tax. The Georgia Volunteers form the largest militia force in the South, and include the First Regiment (Savan- nah), the Second, Third, Sixth and Ninth Bat- -^^^^ . qeorgia marble co. i86 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. talions, and l8 companies of infantry, eight troops of cav- alry, and two batteries. The Georgia Volunteers, Colored, include the First (Savannah) and Third (Augusta) Battal- ions, numbering eleven companies, and 14 unattached com- panies. The military spirit runs high among the young men of Georgia, but the State is economical in the equipment of her troops. The Chatham Artillery, of Savannah, dates from 1786, and has volunteered in every war since. When Wash- ington visited Savannah, he presented the company with SAVANNAH : FOUNTAIN, FORSYTH PARK, two handsomc bronzc cannon, taken from Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown, and these venerable six-pounders are still owned by them. The colored militia companies are among the best in the Union. The police force of Savannah has the unusual organization of regular troops. The Georgia Lunatic Asylum, near Milledgeville, has 1,400 inmates (one third of them colored), with nine detached brick buildings. The Georgia Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb was opened in 1846, in a log cabin at Cave Spring. It has 84 pupils. The Methodists have orphans' homes at Decatur and Macon. The convict-camps contain over 1,500 prisoners, nine tenths of whom are negroes. The yearly mortality, of nearly two per cent., is a terrible evidence against this system of punishment. The National Institutions in Georgia culminate in the new ten-company military post of McPherson Barracks, near Atlanta. The United-States Arsenal stands in the en- virons of Augusta. Fort Pulaski is a five-sided brick work, with casements and barbette batteries and a wet ditch, isolated among the marshes and islands, 14 miles below Savan- nah. It has been rebuilt and strengthened since the civil war, when it received a terrible pounding from the United- States batteries. Fort Oglethorpe is three miles from Savan- nah. Both these works are ungarrisoned. There are six light-houses on the Atlantic coast and 24 lights on the Savannah River. Near Anderson ville was the horrible prison -pen in which the Confederates kept 44,882 National soldiers, 13,000 of whom died here of hunger, disease, filth, vermin and despair. It was a side-hill field of 1,540 by 750 feet, surrounded by a stockade, with many sentries, and cannon pointing inward. The National Cemetery contains 13,714 graves; and another National Cemetery at Marietta enshrines the remains of 10,151 soldiers who died in the great campaigns against Atlanta. The Newspapers include 28 dailies, 195 weeklies, and 34 others. Eleven are devoted to religion, 9 to education, 6 to farming, and 5 to medicine. Prohibition, labor-reform, and woman suffrage have their local organs ; and there are several newspapers printed by and for the colored people. The Augusta Chronicle dates from 1785; the yl/rtfc7« Telegraph, from 1826 ; and the Columbus Enquirer, from 1828. The literary products of Georgia have been among the brightest in American history, and include Harris's Uncle Remus, Longstreet's Georgia Scenes, Thompson's Major Jones, Smith's Bill Arp, Johnston's Dukesborough Tales, Col. C. C. Jones's brilliant historical works, and the poems of Hayne, Lanier, Randall (of ]\Iy Alaryland), Ticknor, Wilde, Hubner and Father Ryan. The Atlanta Cotistitution is happily responsible for much of the prosperity of Georgia in its new developments of wealth and industry. This ~7""' ,_, great journal of the people and exponent of Southern thought and progress was founded in 1868 ; and the Weekly Constitution now enjoys the largest circula- ^ tion of any weekly edition of a daily paper in the jjHjjtfS United States, being over 1 50,000 copies each week. IJU^^w One of the chief texts of this paper has always been : " ji "If the South can keep at home the $400,000,000 . "?; ? received annually for the cotton crop, she will soon <%^ be rich beyond competition. As long as she sends it Atlanta : central railroad station. CONSTITUTION. THE STATE OF GEORGIA. out for the supplies that make the crop, she will remain poor." The enthusiasm with which the Constitution has kept this sub- ject before the people, and continually exploited the natural wealth, beauty and power of the South, has been a noble factor in the upbuilding of Georgia and its sister States. Among the gifted writers of this paper have been Henry W. Grady, Joel Chandler Harris (Uncle Remus), Howell, and others. The Atlanta Constitution is one of the most successful and most prosperous newspapers in the country. Education. — There was no common-school system before the war, although certain funds were allotted to the counties, for the teaching of indigent children. The general school-law of 1868 established a very efficient system of State, county and district schools. The fund is above $800,000. The Uni- versity of Georgia received its charter in 1785, and began its work in 1801. Since that time it has graduated many eminent and useful men, including Stephens, Cobb, Toombs, Hill and Johnson, 200 legislators, 26 congressmen, 60 judges, 4 governors, and 2 bishops. In all its departments it has above 1,200 students. The campus at A.thens covers 37 acres of the high hills over the Oconee, besides the experi- mental farm of 60 acres; and the property of the University is valued at $700,000. There are free scholarships for 3 1 5 Georgians. The University has branch colleges at Dahlonega, Thomasville, Cuth- bert and Milledgeville, devoted partly to agriculture, the mechanic arts and military tactics and exercises. The State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts occupies the Moore College on the University cam- pus. The Georgia School of Technology was opened in 1888, at Atlanta, as a branch of the State University, with 150 white students. It is a school of construction and a practical manufactory, well endowed and possessing fine brick buildings. The law-school is at Athens ; the medical school at Augusta. Emory Col- lege, with six buildings in an oak grove of 40 acres, on the high granite ridge of Oxford, was chartered in 1836, and pertains to the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. It has 15 instructors and 300 students, and schools of technology, law, telegraphy and design. The finest of its buildings is Seney Hall. Mercer University arose in 1838, at Penfield, and was removed to a fine plateau near Macon in 187 1. It is a Baptist institution, with affiliated schools of law and theology. Hearn Institute, at Cove Springs, is its preparatory school. Shorter College, for girls, founded in 1873, has handsome modern buildings on Shelton Hill, Rome, overlooking the Coosa and Oostenaula Valleys. The Wesleyan Female College on Encampment Hill, commanding Macon, dates from 1836, and has 300 students and over 1,200 alumuK. This is the oldest college for women in the world. It has i one of the finest buildings in the South. The Medical College of Georgia, founded at ^^ Augusta in 1829, has become a department of the University. There are three medical schools in Atlanta. The Piedmont Chau- tauqua owns several hotels and scores of handsome houses, a great taljernacle seating 6,000 people, a gymnasium, a hall of philosophy and other college buildings, amid the emerald lawns, flower-beds and fountains of a beautiful park at Salt Springs, 21 miles west of Atlanta, on the Georgia Pacific route. There is another Chautauqua Atlanta ; school of technology. KING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. at Albany, in southwestern Georgia. The Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences was founded about the year 1875, in the old Gov. -Telfair mansion at Savannah, and under the care of the ancient Georgia Historical Society. The art gallery contains many valuable paintings, and is under the directorship of Carl L. Brandt, N. A. The Catholics have academies at Savannah, Washington, Macon, Augusta and Atlanta. Pio None College, at Macon, is now a novitiate and training-school for Jesuits. The chief institution for educating colored people is Atlanta University, opened in 1869, and now possessed of 60 acres of land and four good buildings, with collegiate, normal, industrial and preparatory schools. Its graduates are mainly engaged in teaching. Clark University, at Atlanta, is a Methodist-Episcopal school, with four fine buildings and the well-endowed and prosperous Gammon School of Theology. It has also an excellent indus- trial school. The Atlanta Baptist Seminary has 146 students. The Morris-Brown College, overlooking Atlanta, was opened in 1885, having been organized by the ministers of the Afri- can Methodist Episcopal Church in "Jli^ Georgia. The Paine Institute, opened i-r-r '-'"' i/'^1|{ il«^^ jj^ Augusta in 1884, has 133 young col- THE PIEDMONT CHAUTAUQUA, NEAR ATLANTA. ored men and women, in normal, theo- logical, industrial and music classes ; and Spelman Seminary, at Atlanta, has 27 instructors and over 600 colored girls, with several valuable buildings. The leading libraries in Georgia are the State Library, 45,000 volumes; the University Library, 20,000; the Georgia Historical Society, 16,000; the Macon Public Library, 10,000; the Young Men's Library Association of Atlanta, 12,000; and Mercer University, 10,000. Chief Cities. — Savannah stands on a low bluff over the deep Savannah River, which here forms a crescent nearly a league long. It is one of the handsomest of American cities, embellished with many embowered public squares and the pine-shaded Forsyth Place, with its shell-walks and beautiful fountain (a copy of that in the Place de la Concorde, Paris). In these streets the camellias and oleanders grow as trees, and the sidewalks are overhung with orange and banana trees, myrtles and bays, magnolias and palmettos. In the suburbs is the famous Bonaventure Cemetery, roofed in by the interlacing branches of live-oaks, draped with hanging gray moss. Savannah has established a valuable system of railroads, which bring to her fine harbor the products of Georgia, Upper Florida, and much of Ala- bama and Tennessee. It ships vast quantities of cotton and lumber, rice and naval stores, the yearly exports exceeding ,$70,000,000 in value. Regular lines of steamboats ply on the inland passages between Savannah and Fernandina, Florida ; and a line of first-class ocean- steamships runs to Baltimore and Philadelphia, New York and Boston. It should be remembered that the very first transatlantic steamship was projected and owned in Savan- nah, and bore her name ; and sailed from this port in 1819. Among the most beautiful new buildings in Savannah are the grand and luxurious hotel, the De Soto, and the pic- turesque court-house of Chatham County. A short railway runs seaward to the summer-village of Isle of Hope, on the Skidaway River, near the Benedictine negro mission on Skidaway Island, and the site of George Whitefield's Orphans' Home. Farther down is the sea-view- ing bluff of Montgomery, the headquarters of Georgia yachtsmen. Thunderbolt, Beach Hammock and Tybee Island are other marine pleasuring resorts below Savannah. SAVANNAH BONAVENTURE CEMETERY THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 189 Augusta, the third city in Georgia, receives 200,000 bales of cotton yearly, much of which is brought in by huge six-mule wagons. The city was laid out by Gen. Oglethorpe, and named for an English princess. It stands on a fertile plain near the forest-bordered Savannah River, which is crossed by a bridge lead- ing to Hamburg (S. C.). The water-power canals cost ROME : SHORTER COLLEGE. ^3,000,000, and run eight completely equipped cotton mills, with 200,000 spindles. More brown goods (or unbleached domestics) are made here than anywhere else in America, and find a ready market in Africa and China. . Green Street, the pride of the city, is parked for two miles with four rows of stately trees, rivalling the avenues of Schonbrunn. The city has eight railways centering within its limits, and 25 miles of electric railways. Atlanta is 1,067 f^^t above the sea, and enjoys a cool and bracing highland climate. Numerous railways centre here, and have caused the charred ruins of 1865 to rise into a bril- liant and beautiful modern city, with fine public buildings and parks, manifold industrial enterprises, broad and well-paved and shaded streets, and a net-work of mule and electric cars reaching far into the country. The Piedmont and Capital-City Clubs are the chief social organizations. Atlanta is called "The Gate City," because it is the gateway between the great West and the Atlantic coast, by way of the rich cotton belt. Its suburbs are develop- ing with remarkable rapidity ; lovely wooded parks are being improved ; and handsome resi- dences adorn nearly every street. There is a more liberal and national spirit here than in any other Southern city. Rome, perched up on the northwestern highlands, is a well-known trade-centre, cot- ton-depot, and health-resort. Macon, on the Ocmulgee River, has half a dozen railroads, and a great country-trade, and serves as the chief cotton-market for several counties. Brunswick, 60 miles from Savannah and 70 miles from Jacksonville, stands on a peninsula surrounded by salt water and sheltered by outer islands. Its streets are over-arched by live-oaks and cedars, palmettos and magnolias, and many Northerners find here an agree- able winter-resort. The imports and exports exceed $8,000,000 a year; and 24 steamers visit the port every week. This port is growing in commercial importance more rapidly than any other on the Atlantic coast, having quadrupled its population in ten years. Its magnificent harbor, deep, spacious and well-sheltered, is the ocean terminus of the finely equipped ., and far-reaching East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroad. Darien is the distributing point for the Altamaha, Oconee and Ocmulgee, and exports over $1,000,000 worth of lumber yearly. Among the other towns are West Point, a place of cot- ton-mills ; Valdosta, productive of naval stores ; New- : nan, shipping much cotton ; Milledgeville, the an- cient capital ; Marietta, a favorite health-resort, near Kennesaw Mountain ; Griffin, with mills and country- stores, amid cotton-fields and orchards ; and Dal- y-. ton and Americus, trade-centres for broad rural ;il_ countries. Thomasville is a well-known winter r^ health-resort amid the rolling Piney Woods, 350 feet above the Gulf, wliich is 55 miles distant. ^iscii: MACON ; WESLEYAN FEMALE COLLEGE. A-L'J MACON : U.-S. COURT-HOUSE AND POST-OFFICE. 190 A'ING\S HANDBOOK' OF THE CNirED STATES. across the fertile hills of Tallahassee. The climate is peculiarly dry, and hence favorable for sufferers from pulmonary troubles. Eastman, in the park-like upland pinery of Middle Georgia, has a great hotel, for its health-seeking pilgrims. Hillman, amid the high pine- lands 65 miles from Augusta, is famous for its great electric shaft, sunk to a ledge of alum rock, and visited by thousands' of rheumatics, who form electric circuits by touching hands, one of them resting a hand on the rock. The cures wrought by this simple process seem miraculous. The Bowden-Lithia Springs, near the Piedmont Chautauqua, send out great quantities of water in bottles, and are provided with singular hot baths. The Catoosa Springs, near Ringgold, are iron and sulphur ; the Madison Springs are near Athens ; the Bethesda Springs are 29 miles from Gainesville ; the Warm Springs (90°) on a spur of Pine Mountain, are tinctured with sulphur and iron ; the Red Sulphur Springs are near Lookout Mountain ; and the In- dian Springs (sulphur) are near Griffin. In 1S86, Savannah dedicated a statue of Gen. Nathaniel Greene, of the Continental Army. Two MAKitTTA. years later, she unveiled a monument to Sergeant Wm. Jasper. An older monument commemorates Count Pulaski, who was killed while leading one of the American columns in the assault on the city, in 1779. Augusta has a granite monument to the Georgia signers of the Declaration of Independence, and a marble memorial to the Confederate dead. Atlanta has a noble statue of the late Senator B. H. Hill, on Peach-Tree Street, its fashionable thoroughfare. The Railroads are controlled by three commissioners, with caution and conservatism. The Central Railroad of Georgia runs from Savannah to Macon, 192 miles, and Atlanta, 295 miles, and leases 13 lines, including the routes from Millen to Augusta, 53 miles; Gor- don to Eatonton, 38 miles ; Smithville to Eufaula, Ozark and Montgomery ; Fort Valley to Perry, 12 miles, and Columbus, 71 miles ; Smithville to Albany, 24 miles ; Cuthbert to Fort Gaines, 22 miles ; Macon to Smithville, 83 miles ; Barnesville to Thomaston, 16 miles ; and Griffin to Carrollton, 60 miles. This company also controls lines in Alabama and South Caro- lina. The Savannah, Florida & Western Line was built in 1853-67, and is a part of the At- lantic Coast Line. It runs from Savannah to Chattahoochee, 258 miles, with branches to Albany and Monticello. From Waycross to Jacksonville, the distance is 34 miles ; and another line runs from Dupont to Live Oak. This is the main route to Florida. The Piedmont Air Line (or Richmond & Danville System) from New York to the remote Southwest, is carried through 100 miles of Georgia by the Atlanta & Charlotte Air Line, reaching the finest mountain- scenery in the State, and pass- ing near the celebrated Toc- coa and Tallulah Falls and the Nacoochee Valley. The Air Line is prolonged west- ward of Atlanta by the Geor- gia Pacific route, which trav- ailanta. erses Anniston and Birmingham and reaches the Mississippi River 459 miles from Atlanta. The East-Tennessee,Virginia& Georgia line runs from Brunswick to Macon and Atlanta, Rome and Chattanooga, 431 miles. The 189 miles between Brunswick and Macon were built in 1859-69, at a cost of $4,000,000. This important company has a vast business on its various routes, traversing regions singularly rich in minerals and in farm-products, and reaching the sea at one of the best harbors on the American coast. The Western & Atlantic Railway, 138 miles from Atlanta to Chattanooga, is the main highway between the Ohio Valley and the Southern Atlantic coast, and became the objective THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 191 point of Sherman's bloody and victorious campaigns in 1864. It was built in 1850, at a cost to the State of about $7,000,000. There are many other railways in Georgia, of local value and importance. The Ogeechee Canal, joining the Savannah and Ogeechee Rivers, was built in 1829-40, and is 16 miles long, 120 feet wide, and three feet deep, and has five locks. The Augusta Canal runs from the Savannah River at Augusta, around the falls in the river. It was built in 1847, at a cost of not far from $1,500,000, and is nine miles long and eleven feet deep, with a strong current. Tallapoosa is a thriving and prosperous young city in Haralson County, in the mountain tion of 3,000 is composed dwellings, a score of fac- city, although settled 50 old, yet it has municipal lights and water-works. TALLAPOOSA: GLASS-WORKS, IRON FURNACE, AND LITHIA-SPRINQS HOTEL. region of the northwest. Its'popula- chiefly of Northerners. Here are 700 tories, and 50 business houses. The years ago, is in fact only three years government and institutions, electric Its chief industries are the Piedmont Glass-Works and the Tallapoosa Furnaces, both in successful opera- tion. Here are two banks, schools, churches and two weekly newspa- pers. Besides the three small hotels, the Lithia-Springs Hotel, now build- ing, will cost about $100,000. It is on the Georgia-Pacific Railroad, and the Georgia, Tennessee & Illinois Railroad is under construction. The recent growth of Tallapoosa is due to the energetic manner in which it is being developed by the Georgia-Alabama Investment & Development Company, a corporation officered by a group of able men, whose names have a national eminence. But the future is based on the wonderful resources within and around its borders, — the long leaf pine, hard woods, and charcoal timber ; inexhaustible quantities of steam and coking coal ; brick, terra-cotta and fire-clays ; building and glass sand ; clear mountain water ; gold, marble, and other minerals ; and a surrounding soil that is fertile for vegetables, cereals and cotton, and especially for profit- able fruit-culture. Tallapoosa, being on the western escarpment of the Piedmont plateau, and 1,200 feet above the sea level, has a fine climate, and is remarkable for its healthfulness. The Finances are in the prosperous condition shown by the fines and penalties, licenses and taxes more than meeting the State's expenses, while a sinking-fund is lowering the public debt. The lessees of the Western & Atlantic Railroad pay $420,000 a year to the State, and $25,000 a year is received for the hire of convicts. By the acts of 1879 and 1887, pensions are given to all disabled Confederate soldiers of Georgia. The State's val- uation in i860 reached $646,000,000. Ten years later it had fallen to $268,000,000 as a result of the war, and the emancipation of myriads of negro slaves. The Southern Bank of the State of Georgia, at Savannah, operates under a charter from the State, but has no connection with it other than being one of its designated deposi- tories. It was started in 1870, just when the South was beginning to recover from the convulsion that had wrecked nearly all its finan- cial enterprises, and has kept pace with the growth of its section, and is now one of the most import- ant financial institutions south of Baltimore, and by far the foremost bank in Georgia. Its capital is $500,000, and its surplus fund and undivided profits $700,000, with deposits of $2,000,000 and gross assets of $3,600,000. Confining its opera- tions to no special lines, it has aided to develop each legitimate branch of business, and fostered SAVANNAH : ^ . 1-1 SOUTHERN BANK OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. and cncouragcd every mdustry that promised to 192 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. advance the interests of the community. An important feature is its Department of Savings, which, besides encouraging in all classes habits of thrift and economy, has saved from waste innumerable trifling sums which, by aggregation, form a large addition to Savannah bank- ing capital. As the development of the South — great as it has been — is only in its in- fancy, this institution has a future of which its past, though successful, is only an indication. S. M. Inman & Co. does the largest interior cotton business of any firm, not only in America, but in the world. From a small beginning of 1,500 bales of cotton for the year 1867 the business has steadily grown until now they handle between 300,000 and 400,000 bales. Many of the largest mills in the United States are among their patrons, and they do an immense domestic business in the Atlantic States, while their foreign ship- ments are growing to colossal proportions. Every member of the firm is thoroughly trained in the cotton business by many years' experience, and their corps of assistants number many able and skillful men. The business in the Atlantic States is done under the firm-name of S. M. Inman & Co., with headquarters at Atlanta, Ga. ; while the business west of the Mississippi River, under the slightly different name of Inman & Co., for the mere sake of distinction, has its principal office at Houston, Texas. They employ in all the depart- ments of their business some 500 men, and have warehouse and compress accommodations for 50,000 bales of cotton at one time. With ample capital and unlimited credit, they are in the market throughout the season, and are always free buyers of cotton to fill the orders of their correspondents. The most interesting building in Atlanta for the wayfarer Atlanta : s. m. inman & co. in the Sunny South is the great Kimball House, where nearly a thousand guests may be enter- tained at once, K^ and supplied with all the comforts and luxuries demanded in this age of refinement and luxury. The original hotel on this site was erected after the Civil War, by an enterprising Northerner ; and after its destruction by fire, the present house rose on its site, for the benefit of pleasure-travellers, tourists bound for Flor- ^ ^ ida and New Orleans, prospectors for busi- -|9 J-t^C^^'^M^^'T" "^^^ enterprises, and visitors who find de- 1?'^'^^'' r|i , gS| ^' light in the pure air of Atlanta and the |fl[^l5^f^4|ijptlll beautiful scenery of the historic highlands - --:-'-'^:^~"'^''"^ of Georgia. Under the management of Charles Beermann & Co., the Kimball ATLANTA : KIMBALL HOUSE. Housc talvcs rank among the best con- ducted and most successful hotels of the whole country. It is situated in the heart of the city ; architecturally it is very attractive, and throughout it is handsomely furnished. Manufactures. — In 1880, Georgia factories, capitalized at $20,672,410, paid $5,266,- 152 to 24,875 operatives, and from raw material valued at $24,143,939 made goods worth $36,440,998. Four years later the capital and products had doubled, with great cotton mills at Columbus, Augusta, Atlanta, Macon, Athens, West Point and Decatur; 32 woolen-mills; $20,000,000 in iron and steelworks; and $10,000,000 in flour and meal mills. The prosperous manufacturing enterprises of Georgia have risen since the war, favored by admirable water-powers, cheap labor, exemption from taxation, easy transport by rail or river, and the presence on the ground of cotton and wool, coal and iron. The manufacture of cotton goods employs 10,000 hands, 8,000 looms, 340,000 spindles,, and produces $25,000,000 yearly, from 100,000 bales of cotton. Savannah makes parlor and sleeping and box cars. Atlanta has large street-car works and cotton-mills. f^%'iim\ 334 i8 282 $ 1, 200,000 . 328,000 Idaho lay hidden beyond the Plains and RockyMoun- tains for centuries after the settlement of the East, unregarded and unknown, except by the adventurers of the Hudson-Bay Com- pany. It is hard to tell how it came to be a part of the Union, whether as a fragment of the Louisiana pur- chase or as a section of the Oregon Country. The first white men in Idaho were Lewis and Clark's exploring party, in 1805-6, followed by the Missouri Fur Company and the Pacific Fur Company; byCapt. Bonneville, in 1834 ; and by missionaries. In 1834 N. J. Wyeth founded Fort Hall, which was an important point in emigrant days, being at the crossing of the Missouri-Oregon and Utah-Canada trails. The Territory of Idaho was formed in 1863, from parts of Washington, Dakota, and Nebraska, and then in- cluded the present Idaho and Montana and most of Wyom- ing. Attention was called to this mountain-walled solitude in i860, when thousands of Californian miners flocked into it, after the discovery of gold on Oro-Fino Creek. These adventurers aroused the hostility of the Indians, who fought them at many points, and the defiles of Owyhee and Salmon River often echoed with the terrible war-whoop. The U. -S. troops were withdrawn to fight for the Union, and this region was defended by the First Oregon Cavalry. In 1883-84 occurred the Coeur-d'Alene stampede, when 5,000 gold-hunters crossed the terrible snows of the mountains. The Name of Idaho is Indian in origin, and is said to mean "The Light on the Mountains," applied to the lustrous view of the snowy peaks at sunrise. Joaquin Miller says that the Indians pronounced it E-daJi' -hoe. Three names, Shoshone, Montana and Idaho, were submitted to Congress, and the latter was chosen, through the insistance of Geo. B. Walker, of Idaho, and Senator Wilson, of Mas- sachusetts. The Shoshones had a legend of a bright object falling from the skies, and Settled at Fort Hall. Settled in 1834 Founded by .... Americans. Admitted as a State, Population, in 1870, .... 14,959 In 1880, 32,610 White, 29,013 Colored 3>?97 American-born, . . . 22,636 Foreign-born, .... 9,974 Males, 21,818 Females 10, 79-' In 1890 (U. S. Census), . . 84,385 I'opulation to the square mile, 0.4 Votmg Population (1S80), . . 14,795 Vote for Governor in i8go (Rep.), 10,262 Vote for Governor in 1F90 (Dem.), 7,948 Net Territorial Debt, . . $200,855 Taxable Property, . . $26,000,000 Area (square miles), . . . 84,800 U. S. Representatives (1893), i Militia (Disciplined), Counties, .... Post-offices, . . . Railroads (miles), Manufactures (yearly). Farm Land (in acres). Farm Population, . . . Farm-Land Values, . . $2,800,000 Colleges, I Public Schools, 365 School Children, .... 10,433 Newspapers, 46 Latitude, 3o°2i' to 25° Longitude, . . 8o°48' to 85040' W. Temperature, . . . — 38° to 115° Mean Temperature (Fort Boisej 52" 46' TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) Boise City, 2,311 Montpelier, 1,174 Weiser, goi Paris, 803 liellevue, 892 Wallace, 878 Lewiston, 849 Caldwell, 779 Grangeville 540 Coeur-d'Alene 491 194 JilNG'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STATES. EMIGRANT TEAM AT WATER. resting on a mountain, forever shining, but for- ever inaccessible, even to the bravest warriors and hunters. This they called Idaho. The Arms of Idaho bear a view of the Snake River, with the Owyhee Mountains on the left, and the Pannock and Bannock Moun- tains on the right. The crest is a full-antlered elk's head. The motto is EsTO Perpetua (" Let it endure forever "). The Governors have been : Wm. H. Wal- lace, 1863-4; Caleb Lyon, 1864-6; David W. Ballard, 1866-7; Samuel Bard, 1870 ; Oilman Marston, 1870-I ; Alex. Connor, 1S71 ; Thos. M. Bowen, 1871 ; Thos. W. Bennett, 1871-6; Mason Brayman, 1876-80; John B. Neil, 1880-3; John N. Irwin, 1883; Wm. N. Bunn, 1884-5; Edw. A, Stevenson, 1885-9; Geo. L. Shoup, 1889-90; and N. B. Willey (acting), 1890-92. Descriptive. — Idaho has been likened in shape to a great chair, with the Rocky and Bitter-Root Ranges as its front, seat and back. It also nearly resembles a right-angled tri- angle, whose hypothenuse is the Bitter-Root Range. The streams flow to the Pacific, except Bear River, which enters the Great Salt Lake. It is the twelfth American common- wealth in area, being larger than all New-England, and about equal to Pennsylvania and Ohio united. Utah and Nevada are on the south ; Wyoming and Montana, east ; British Columbia, north ; and Wash- ington and Oregon, west. The straight western frontier is more than 400 miles long ; the southern, 300 ; the northern, 50, and the eastern border runs due north for 130 miles, and then follows the Rocky Mountains northwest. The mean elevation is 4,700 feet, the surfaces being greatly diversified, from the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater Rivers, 676 feet above the sea, to the summits of the Rocky Mountains, high above the snow-line. It is a vast wedge-shaped table-land, rising from the west to a height of 10,000 feet in the east, and, as Prof. Hayden says : "Literally crumpled or rolled up in one continuous series of mountain ranges, fold after fold." The great Wahsatch and Rocky Mountains extend along the southeast, and a small part of the Yellowstone National Park is in Idaho. The Bitter-Root Mountains begin near Gibbon's Pass, and run northwest to the headwaters of the St. Joseph, beyond which the Divide is prolonged by the Coeur-d'Alene Range. Central Idaho is a great mass of wild sierras, among which the Salmon-River and Clearwater Mountains extend for long distances, and the Sawtooth Range lifts its sharp rocky spires. Among these ridges are park-like valleys like the Camas Prairie, with 500 square miles of roll- ing farm-lands ; the Payette Valley, abounding in grain and cattle ; and part of the famous grain- bearing Palouse country, about Genesee. Boise Valley, sixty miles long, is a rich farming and mining country, sheltered by the Boise Moun- tains, and with large areas reclaimed by the canals of the Idaho Mining & Irrigation Company. In the east, the Lemhi Valley, seventy miles long and four to six miles wide, is famous for its crops and dairies. The Pahsamari Valley, twenty-five cabinet gorge, clark s fork. GREAT CANON OF THE SALMON RIVER. THE STATE OE IDAHO. 195 PORT-NEUF VALLEY- miles long, has great herds of cattle. In northern Idaho are the St. -Joseph's and Potlatch Valleys, and North Camas Prairie ; and eastern Idaho has in the Salt-River, Bear- River, North-Fork, South Fork, Blackfoot and Rome Val- leys a thousand square miles of good soil. The Surveyor-General divides Idaho into 25,000,000 acres of grazing lands, 10,000,000 acres of forests, 13,000,000 acres of farm-lands, and 8,000,000 acres of sage-brush plains. Much of southern Idaho is a dry and black lava desert, 400 miles long and 50 miles wide, cut deep down, 1,000 feet or more, by the sheer cafions of the Snake River and other streams, and by many great crevasses. The northern part of the plain has a wonderfully weird appearance, as of a black sea suddenly turned to stone. The soil elsewhere in the valley is sandy and un- stable, and the chief vegetation is enormous sage-brush and bunch-grass, but irrigation is redeeming it for farming. Within the bend of the Snake River is an immense basaltic plain, out of which rise the granite crests of the Three Buttes, famous landmarks for over- land emigrants. South of the Snake the valleys and foot-hills contain bunch-grass and arable bottom-lands, alternating with abrupt ranges of mountains, which are dotted with a few evergreens and aspens. The beautiful Malade, Cache, Gentile, Bear-River and other valleys open away into the Utah basin, and are occupied by Mormon hamlets, around which extend broad farms, with efficient irrigation systems. The Bear-Lake country has a moun- tain of sulphur, and deposits of lead and coal. The latter is also mined on Irwin Creek and at Lewiston. Close to Bear River is the health-resort of Soda Springs, with its alterative and tonic iron, sulphur and magnesia waters, sparkling, effer- vescent and pleasant, and highly charged with carbonic-acid gas. One of these fountains Fremont named the Steamboat Spring, on account of its measured puffs of steam. In this vicinity are sulphur lakes, a deep ice-cave, and the beautiful Swan Lake. The most famous springs are the Mammoth, Hooper and Ninety-Per-Cent ; and there are also mud, hot, ammonia, and gas springs. The waters are 5,779 feet above the sea, among the Wahsatch Mountains, in a pure and dry air, of great benefit to con- sumptives. They were a favorite resort of Brigham Young, and many Salt-Lake Mormons frequent them now ; and other well-to-do persons have built summer-cottages. The large hotel is called the Idanha. About 500,000 gallons of water are bottled every year. Bear Lake is a magnificent oval, twenty by eight miles, whose deep and mountain-fed waters abound in trout and mullet, and ripple up sandy shores below Paris, Montpelier and other peaceful Mormon villages. The valley is 5,900 feet above the sea, and Bear Lake remains ice-bound from January to April. Southwestern Idaho is occupied by a dreary alkali desert, out of which rise the Owyhee Mountains, famous for their silver-mines. There are 10,000,000 acres of forest in Idaho, producing a vast and valuable timber-supply. _ " White-pine logs 100 feet long and five feet thick p" "'^'^'**°''^'*'^^'^^" ~'"^^'°^^"°^^^^ '" " "^ have been cut on the Clearwater. In the south 1^ . the forests are mainly along the highlands, but \ in the north they cover the entire country, and 1^ include valuable tracts of red cedar, lodge-pole and yellow pines, and great spruces. The lakes of Idaho are its most beautiful fea- tures. Lake Pend 'Oreilles is thirty miles long and from three to fifteen miles wide, studded with green islands, and surrounded by Granite SCENE ON SNAKE RIVER. LAKE PEND 'OREILLES. lf,6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Mountain, the snowy Pack-Saddle Range, the purple Ca-ur-d'Alene Mountains, and other peaks, nearly 10,000 feet high. The seenery has been likened to that of the world-re- nowned Ktinigs-See, in Bavaria. The lake has 250 miles of shore-line, and is navigated by several small steamboats. The Northern Pacific Railroad follows the north shore for twenty- five miles, and has a summer-hotel at Hope. This fine inland sea abounds in trout, gray- ling and char ; and game-birds, and white-tailed deer, moose, forests. Coeur-d'Alene Lake the Cceur-d'Alene Mountains, E, with its branches pointing lonely shores are clad with The expanse is twenty-five four miles wide, wnth a wild Windermere of clear, abounding in trout and with millions of white- st. Joseph River flows into navigable for twenty-five the Coeur-d'Alene River the steamboats to Old Mis- whence a narrow-gauge railway the mining country. The lake terious swells, like the seiches kane River flows out of its miles west to the Columbia, like a great canal. SHOSHONE FALLS. black and cinnamon bears, mule elk, and caribou dwell in the fills a wide gorge in the spurs of and bears the form of a letter southeast. Its irregular and forests of pine and tamarack, miles long and from one to depth reaching 180 feet, a cold, light -green water, other fish, and stocked fish. The mountain-born its southern bay, and is miles ; and five miles below enters, ascended daily by sion, thirty-five miles up, runs to Mullan and Burke, in is agitated at evening by mys- on Lake Geneva. The Spo- northern end, and runs 1 00 Farther north, under the lonely Cabinet Mountains, in a land inhabited mainly by caribou, deer and bears. Lake Kanik-su covers 200 square miles. This remote locality, forty miles from the railway, is visited only by hunters, trappers and prospectors. Henry Lake and Cliff Lake, in the southeast, are surrounded by the high peaks and basaltic cliffs of the Rocky Mountains, each being above a league long. The clear, cold unfathomed depths of the Payette Lakes (one of which is ten by two miles) lie at the head of the beautiful Long Valley. The chief river is the Snake, called by the Indians the Shoshone, and by the early ex- plorers Lewis's Fork of the Columbia. It is a rapid stream, running for a thousand miles in Idaho, and draining nearly two thirds of its territory, receiving many large tributaries, like the Salmon, Port-Neuf, Wood, Boise, Owyhee, Weiser, and Clearwater, from the Idaho side, and many others from Oregon. These are valuable for mining and irrigation, but cannot be navigated, except the Clearwater. The Salmon River is 450 miles long, traversing a wild and picturesque valley. Around the headwaters of the Snake, near Yellowstone Park, there are rich bottoms, followed by 150 miles of valley-lands. The American Falls are forty feet high, plunging over a lava stairway ; and the Oregon Short Line crosses the river amid their roar and spray. Below Goose Creek the Snake enters a profonnd canon, within whose gloomy depths it flows for seventy miles. In this chasm the river, sweeps through a group of five volcanic islands, amid which occur several cascades ; and then forms the magnificent Shoshone Falls, descending in full volume, 950 feet wide, over a semi-circular cliff 225 feet high, torn by projecting rocks of jetty lava into cataracts of white foam and rainbow-crossed spray. At times the vol- ume of water nearly equals that of Niagara, and the fall is one third higher. Richardson calls it "a cataract , ,. ^. *= TWIN FALLS : SNAKE RIVER. THE ST. I TE OE IDAHO. 197 FERRY AT SHOSHONE FALLS of snow with an avalanche of jewels, amid solemn portals of lava, unrivalled in the world save by Niagara." This remarkable locality is twenty-five miles from the railway, by a stage- route over the olive and gray desert ; and has a hotel for tourists. The Twin Falls of the Snake River (150 feet high) are three miles above the Shoshone Falls. Forty-five miles below the river plunges over the Salmon Falls. The Snake is navigable from a few miles above the Boise River to Powder River, 100 miles below. The Hailey Hot Springs, high up in the Wood-River Valley, are strongly mineralized, and have a temperature of 144°, with a large hotel, and luxurious bathing facilities, sur- rounded by a beautiful park. Similar accommodations are provided at the Guyer Hot Springs (150°), near Ketchum ; and the Boise Hot Springs. The Panhandle is traversed by Clark's Fork, and the Kootenai and Spokane Rivers, affording attractive scenery. At Post Falls, on the Spokane, the deep, still river falls eighteen feet, and forty feet in rapids, making a valuable water-power for the lumber-region hereabouts. The Climate varies greatly, and the perpetual snows of the mountain-walls look down on lovely temperate valleys, dry and equable, and warmed by the winds from the Black Current of Japan. The plains have cold and bracing winters, between the severe climate of the mountains and the mildness of the valleys. * The summers are cool and pleasant. People with consumption and malaria, asthma and general debility, find this highly oxygen- ated air beneficial. Cyclones and floods are unknown here, and sunstroke and hydrophobia are equally strangers. Lewiston has a milder climate than Iowa, Ohio or New Hampshire ; and the higher placed Boise City is warmer than Connecticut. The sunshiny days number 260 in each year. Agriculture in southern Idaho is based on irrigation, which causes oases of verdure to spring up in the arid desert. In northern ^:- ''^~.zt^^^^ '' ^ ._, ■' ~-'~^ Idaho irrigation is not essential. The farmers find good markets in the mining camps. Among their products are over 1,500,000 bushels of wheat and 1,300,000 bushels of oats yearly, with large crops of barley and STOCK RANCHE. SHEEP-SHEARING CORRALS. - potatoes, 530,000 tons of hay, and $1,000,- 000 worth of fruits. Flax, rye, alfalfa, sor- ghum, and huge vegetables are produced abundantly. The untilled plains are rich in wild fruits, and flowers of great brilliance and beauty. The Mormons of the south also raise large crops of cereals. The grazing capabilities are availed of by 600,000 horses and cattle, and 350,000 sheep, yielding 2,000,000 pounds of wool yearly. They winter in the open air and fatten on bunch-grass and white sage. Mining has been hampered by the remoteness of the railroads, yet some of the richest placers and veins in America are worked here ; and the Rocky-Mountain range for 400 miles abounds in gold and silver. Gold was discovered as early as 1852 ; and again on Oro-Fino BRANDING CATTLE, KING'S HANDBOOK 0I<' TIIK UNITED STATES. Creek in tS6o ; at Boise, in 1862; and in the Owyhee Mountains in 1863. The State has produced above $160,000,000 in the precious metals. The early pro- ducts came mainly from the gold placers, by sluice and hydraulic methods. The "flour gold," of the river- sands, was so fine that it had to be separated by slowly running it over mercury-covered electro-plated sheets of silver. Owyhee County, larger than Massachusetts, has the Oro-Fino, Poorman and other gold and sil- ver mines, very rich in ore, but expensive to work. The Wood-River district of Alturas County produces several million dollars' worth of silver-bearing lead yearly, and considerable gold, with a dozen concentrators and a score of smelting works and mills ; and has numerous mining-villages, toward the Sawtooth Mountains. The placers of Snake River and the silver-lodes about Boise and Atlanta are also worked with profit. The Leesburg district has produced $7,000,000 in placer-gold; and Lemhi County has rich regions of gold quartz and silver carbonates. The Custer-County mines have produced over $10,000,000, from the Custer, Charles-Dick- ens, Bay-Horse, and other lofty mountain-mines. The Warren and Elk-City districts of Idaho County have many gold and silver mines. The Coeur-d'Alene region has developed placer-gold, with great silver and lead mines along* the South Fork and the Bitter-Root Mountains. Thousands of miners are at work here. Ledges of free-mill- ing chloride of silver were discovered in 1888, south of Lake Pend 'Oreilles ; and there are gold- mines along Clark's Fork. The Peacock copper-mines are near the Snake River, and 4,000 feet above it, and the other wonderful deposits of the Seven-Devils region are now coming into notice. The Lost-River copper mines are very rich. Iron has been found at many points. There are large mica deposits on the Middle Weiser, and elsewhere. The Goose-Creek valley has mines of coal, or brown lignite. Marble is quarried on the Snake, and large deposits of it occur elsewhere. Granite, limestone and sandstone are also found. The Oneida Salt Works have produced 2,000,000 pounds a year of the purest and whitest salt, made by boiling the water which flows freely from saline springs near the Old Lander Emigrant Road. The Government lies in the hands of a governor and executive officers, and a biennial legislature. There are eighteen senators and thirty-six representatives. The Capitol was erected in 1 885-7, in the centre of a square given by Boise City, a pleasant tree-shaded town in a rich fruit country. This is the social centre of the State, and the quaint norias or water-wheels in front of its cottages pour re- freshing streams into the gardens. Near the city is the beautiful and secluded Cottonwood Canon. The 120 local convicts are kept in the United- States Penitentiary, two miles east of Boise City. The Insane Asylum at Blackfoot has about fifty inmates. The public schools are supported by local taxa- tion, and endowed with two sections of land in each township. Much opposition has been made to (he schools in the Mormon counties of the South. The 'THE POORMAN ■ dUR D ALENE MiNMG DISTRICT. State Uuivcrslty at Moscow has a valuable land- COWBOYS NOONING. THE STATE OE IDAHO. 199 grant. Wilbur College at Lewiston, is a Methodist school, with sixty-seven stud- ents ; and there are other sectarian schools. Idaho has 48 Mormon churches, with 237 high priests, and 15,000 members ; 7 Catholic churches, and 7 Presbyterian, 9 Episcopalian and 5 Baptist churches. The first printing press west of the Rocky Mountains, and north of California, was given by the Protestant native church of the Sandwich Islands, and set up in 1836 at the Lap-wai Mission, Idaho, for printing books in the Nez-Perce language Idaho now has thirty-seven newspapers, three of which are daily. Fort Sherman was established by Gen. Sherman at the north end of the beautiful Coeur- d'Alene Lake, ten miles from Rathdrum station, and is aji eight-company post. Boise Barracks is a two-company post, not far from the Capitol, with handsome stone buildings, on a reservation a mile square. The United-States Assay Office occupies a massive stone building at Boise City. Paris, on Bear Lake, 5,836 feet above the sea, is the capital of the Mormon settlements made in 1863, and has a many-colored granite Mormon Tabernacle, the finest church in Idaho. Silver City is the metropolis of the Owyhee silver-mines. Murray nestles in a deep ravine, near the famous Dream Gulch. Florence, 6,265 f^^^ above the sea, is one of the loftiest villages in the State. Railroads. — The long valleys of Idaho furnish available routes for railways, of which there are Soo miles in operation, although in 1876 not a rail had been laid. The Oregon Short Line runs for 481 miles in Idaho, through the Bear-Lake country, down the savage Port-Neuf Canon, across Snake River and its illimitable lava-beds, and through the fruit country from the Malade to the Weiser. A branch line runs from Shoshone to Ketchum (sixty-nine miles) ; and the Idaho Central runs from Nampa to Boise City. The Utah & Northern, one of the most important nar- row-gauge railways in the world (454 miles long), traverses the eastern side of Idaho for 2065- miles, crossing the Oregon Short Line at Pocatello, and ascending the Snake valley many leagues, after which it climbs the Rockies to Monida, and traverses Montana to the Northern Pacific Railroad. Its southern terminus is at Ogden, Utah, on the Union Pacific Railway, which owns a majority of its stock. The Northern Pacific Railroad crosses northern Idaho from Heron to Mauser. A branch leads from Hauser Junction to Cceur- d'AleneCity, thirty-three miles, whence steamboats run to Old Mission, connect- ing with a railway to Mullan and Burke, and to Missoula, Montana. Another branch reaches Genesee. The Great Northern Railway is being built across Northern Idaho. Steamboats run on the Snake be- tween Lewiston and Riparia ; on the Lower Clearwater, from Lewiston to the North Fork; and on the Coeur- A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. d'Alene Lake and River. Two steamboats run on Lake Pend 'Orcilles. Stages traverse the roads in every direction. The flour-mills and lumber-mills of Idaho produce over $1,000,000 yearly, and form its chief manufacturing interests, outside of the production of bullion. The Shoshones, or Snake Indians, are a peaceable and industrious tribe, good horsemen and hunters, and now turning to agriculture. The Lemhi Reservation of 106,000 acres and the Fort-Hall Reservation of 1,200,000 acres (with an industrial school), are set apart for the Shoshones and their offshoot tribes, the brave but uncivilized Bannocks, and the barbaric Sheep-eaters. There are 2,200 Indians at these agencies. The western Shoshone Reservation, in Owyhee, has 400 inhabitants. The Shoshones and Nez Perces have been among the firmest friends of the Americans. The Sahaptins were called Nez Perces by the French voyageurs, from N^ez Pres, "Flat-Noses," or perhaps because they pierced their nos- trils to receive shell-ornaments. In 1855 they divided into the Treaty and Non-Treaty tribes, one settling on the Lapwai Reservation and the other roaming free. In 1877 an attempt was made to force the Non-Treaties to live at Lapwai, but under Chief Joseph's lead they defeated Col. Perry in White-Bird Canon ; gave Gen. Howard a long day's battle on the Clearwater ; crossed theBittci - Root Mountains ; defeated Gen. Gibbon ; recrossed to Horse Prairie ; surprised Howard's camp and stampeded his horses ; then entered the Yellowstone Park, and endeavored to reach Canada. One band succeeded, but the main body suffered capture at the Sweet-Grass Hills, in Montana, and were taken to Leavenworth and Indian Territory. Seven years later most of them returned to Lapwai and the Colville Reservation. There are 1,200 Nez Perces here, with schools and farms, on a fertile reservation of 746,651 acres. In 1S89 Special- Agent Alice S. Fletcher began to allot the land to them in severalty. The Skizoomish Indians were named by the early French voyageurs Awl-Hearts ("Coeur-d'Alene"), indicating that their spirits were small and hard, as shown by their shrewdness in trade. In 1820 they numbered 2,000, but there are only 250 left now, although the tribe has never been at war with the United States. They are self-supporting farmers, educating their children at the nuns' schools, and attending the Catholic Mission of the Sacred Heart, founded in 1841. Their reservation covers 600,000 acres, near Coeur- d'Alene Lake. The Kootenais in the north, are reputed to be gentle and honest, but poor and lazy. LAKE PEND 'OREILLES MISSION. " It was the common judgment of the first explorers that there was more of strange and awful in the scenery and topography of Idaho than of the pleasing and attractive. A more intimate acquaintance with the less conspicuous features of the country revealed many beauties. The climate of the valleys was found to be far milder than from their elevation could have been expected. Picturesque lakes \\ ere discovered nestled among the mountains, or liiinishing in some instances navigable waters. I ish and game abound. Fine forests of pine and fir cover the mountain-slopes, except in the lava region ; and nature even in this phenomenal part of her domain, had not forgotten to prepare the earth for the occupation of man, nor neglected to give him a wondrously warm and fertile soil to compensate for the labor of subduing the savagery of her apparently waste places." LAKE CCEUR D'ALENE. HUBERT HoWE BANCROFT. E E^ ^:j^^i--i_^^-/k --■ Settled at . . Settled in . . Founded by Admitted as a State, Population, in i860, In 1870, . . In :88o, . . 1,711,951 2,539,891 3.077.871 3,031,151 . 46, 720 2.494.295 . 583.576 1,586,523 1,491,348 3,826,351 5T0KY. In the dawn of its his- tory Illinois is seen thinly populated by tribes of sav- ages, forever at war, and wreaking upon each other the most horrible tortures. The Illinois were a con- federacy of Algonquin In- dians, including the Peoria, Kaskaskia,Cahokia,Tamaroa,and Michigan tribes, dwelling in and near the State that commemorates the name. They drove out the Arkansas ; nearly annihilated the Winne- bagoes, in 1640; suffered murderous defeat by the Iroquois, in 1680, losing 1,300 warriors; fought the Sioux; attacked the frontiers of Virginia ; joined the French in fighting the Chickasaws; and in 1719 were quite naturally reduced to 3,000 persons. After a season of war against the United States, the fragments of the nation were led by their chief, Du Quoin, to the Indian Territory. The Kickapoos origi- nally occupied the region south of Lake Michigan, whence they advanced southward to the Sangamon. They were the most implacable enemies of the Republic, and fought Harrison, Harmar, St. Clair and Wayne, and when ex- pelled from Illinois they migrated to Mexico, to escape American rule. The first Europeans to visit this land of massacre were the envoys of religion and commerce. Pushing westward from the rock of Quebec into the vast continental wilder- ness, the heroic Champlain reached Lake Huron in 1615, and Jean Nicolet discovered Lake Michigan in 1634. In 1673 Father Marquette and Louis Joliet (a Quebec-born fur-trader) crossed Wisconsin by the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, and descended the majestic Mississippi, being the first Europeans to see Illinois, whose people welcomed them with festivals and peace-pipes, as they ascended the tranquil Illinois River. Incited by Joliet, La Salle and Tonti in 1679, made further exploration. Near the site of Buffalo (N. Y. ) they built the Griffin, and thus sailed to the Wisconsin shore, and presently ascended STATISTICS. White, . . . Colored, . , American-born, Foreign-born, Males, . . . Females, . . In 1890 (U. S. census^ Population to the square mile, 55 \^oting Population 796,847 Vote for Harrison (1888), . 370,475 Vote for Cleveland (1888), . 348,371 Net State debt, exceeded by funds in hand. Assessed Valuation of Property (1890), . . $727,000,000 Area (square miles), . . . 56,650 U. S. Representatives (1893), 22 -Militia (Disciplined), . . . 4,045 Counties 102 Post-offices, 2,462 Railroads (miles), .... 10,214 Manufactures (yearly), $415,000,000 Farm Land (in acres), . . 32,500,000 Farm-Land Values, $i,oio,ooo,coo Public School Average At- tendance, 518,043 Newspapers, 1,714 Latitude, . . 360:^9' to 42°3o' N. Longitude, . . 87°35' to gi°4o' W. Mean Temperature (Keloit), 47/^° Mean Temperature (Cairo), 585^° TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU- LATIONS. (Census of 1890.) Chicago, 1,099,850 Peoria, Quinc)', . . Springfield, Rockford, . Joliet, . . Rloomington, Aurora, . . Elgin, . . Decatur, 41,024 31,494 24.963 23.584 23,264 20,484 19,688 17,823 16.841 202 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. the St. -Joseph, and in canoes drifted down the Kankakee, a quiet five-foot stream, zig-zagging through the tall prairie- grasses. Tonti was a witness of the unspeakable horrors of the Iroquois invasion, when hundreds of Illinois women and chil- dren were burnt at the stake. Subsequently La Salle formed a confederation of Kickapoos, Miamis, Illinois, Piankeshaws and Shawnees, with above 2,000 warriors, defended by earth- works, and grouped about Fort St. Louis, near Starved Rock. Tn 1680 La Salle and Hennepin founded Fort Creve-Cceur. Cahokia and Kaskaskia were established as Catholic missions, and an important French commerce flowed between the Great CHICAGO THE CRIB, LAKE MICHIGAN j^akcs and thc Mississippi Vallcy, by the Chicago and Illinois Rivers. The French colonies flourished, and developed farms and mills, chapels and forts, in the American Bottom, and lived at peace with the Indians. The country was governed first from Quebec, and then from New Orleans, until 1763, when it passed by cession into the hands of Great Britain. Capt. Sterling of the 42d Highlanders, then became its gov- ernor, arriving at Fort Chartres in 1765. The chief French villages were Notre Dame de Cascasquias (Kaskaskia), with its stone monastery and fortress ; St. Famille de Kaoquias (Cahokia), founded by Canadians who married Cahokia squaws ; and Prairie du Rocher, near old Fort Chartres. The French Illinoisans dwelt in thatched and white-washed one- story houses, and dressed in white capotes, coarse blue garments and moccasins. Virginia had always claimed the country north- west of the Ohio as hers by right of charter, and in 1778 Col. George Rogers Clark, acting under her authority, chose 150 men, with whom he de- scended the Ohio to near Fort Massac. Thence they marched for several days, and seized the sleeping town of Kaskaskia. The French people gladly took the oath of allegiance to the United States, and persuaded their compatriots at Cahokia and Vincennes to embrace the American cause. Virginia governed her conquest by county lieutenants, and the earliest American immigrants were Virginians, who, in 17S1, settled along the American Bottom. The magnanimous cession of the Northwest Territory to the Union, made by Virginia in, 1784, placed Illinois under the National jurisdiction. In 1809 the Illinois Territorial government was organized, including Wisconsin, Michigan and Min- nesota. The population in 1800 was 2,358, largely French; and during the next ten years 10,000 immigrants came in, mainly from the Southern States. During the decade 1830-40, the population increased 318,738, and in the next decade the increase was 375,281. Fort Dearborn was erected by the Government at Chicago in 1804. In 181 2 it was evacuated by the garrison, under orders, but before they had marched a league on their way to Fort Wayne, 500 Pottawatamies attacked the little column, and massacred two thirds of them, capturing the re- mainder and holding them for ransom. The Mormons founded the city of Nauvoo, on the Mississippi, in 1840, and erected an imposing temple ; but their doctrines aroused among the settlers an opposition which became serious. In 1844, Joseph and Hiram Smith, the Mormon chiefs, were put in prison at Carthage, where a mob overpowered the guards, and slew the PEGUM-SAUGUM POINT, NEAR LA SALLE. STARVED ROCK AND ILLINOIS RIVER. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 203 captives. After a cannonade of a long day's duration between five Illinois and five Mor- mon guns, in which 800 cannon-balls were fired, Nauvoo surrendered, and its people suf- fered ejectment. A year later, the Mormons abandoned Nauvoo, and set out on their march beyond the Rocky Mountains, to found new homes by the Great Salt Lake. Six regiments went from Illinois to the Mexican War. As soon as the late civil war broke out, Gov. Yates garrisoned Cairo, and put Illinois in line of battle. During the war she sent out 156 regiments of infantry and 17 of cavalry, and 33 batteries, numbering 259,092 men. Of these 5,888 were killed in battle, 3,022 died of their wounds, 19,596 died of disease, and 967 died in Southern prisons. May 23, 1878, 340 flags and guidons borne by the Illinois volunteers were transferred from the State Arsenal to the Memorial Hall in the State House, with imposing military ceremonies, and under the escort of marching columns. The vast inflowing of immigration, the development of internal improvements, and the legislative settlement of important local ques- tions give material for many interesting chapters of history. The latest dramatic scene on Illinois soil occurred May 4, 1886, when 180 Chicago: douglas monument. policemen, endeavoring to disperse an Anarchist mob in Chicago, were attacked with dyna- mite and revolvers, and lost seven killed and sixty wounded. Seven of the leading Anar- chists were tried and convicted ; four were hung, two went to prison, and one committed suicide. Thus fell the power of anarchy in the New World. The Name of the State is a Canadian-French attempt to express the word Illinhvik, which in Algonquin is a verbal form, "We are men." The ivek gradually got written ois, pronounced way. We say lUy-noy ; but the French said Illeenweek. This account agrees with Albert Gallatin, who translated the word Illini (the same as Lent of the Delawares) as Superior Men or Real Men. Among the pet names for Illinois are The Prairie State, The Garden of the West, and The Sucker State. The term Sucker as applied to an Illinoisian is attributed to a Missourian, who said to a party of Illinois men going home from the Galena mines: "You put me in mind of suckers; up in the spring, spawn, and all return in the fall." The old-time lead- miners always passed their winters at home, returning to Galena in the season when the sucker-fish were running plentifully. Douglas said : When George Rogers Clark's brave little army of Virginians charged into Kaskaskia, they perceived the French citizens sitting on their verandahs and imbibing mint-juleps through straws. In thunder tones the rangers shouted: "Surrender, you suckers. " The State Arms bear an American spread eagle, perched upon a boulder on the prairie, with a rising sun in the background. This device has been in use since 1819. The motto is : State Sovereignty — National Union. The Governors of Illinois have been : Terri- torial — Ninian Edwards, 1809-18. State — Shad- rach Bond, 1818-22 ; Edward Coles, 1822-26; Ninian Edwards, 1826-30; John Reynolds, 1830-4; Wm. L. D. Ewing (acting), 1834; Jos. Duncan, 1834-8; Thos. Carlin, 1838-42; Thos. Ford, 1S42-6 ; Aug. C. French, 1846-53; Joel A. Mat- teson, 1853-57; Wm. H. Bissell, 1857-60; John Wood, 1 860- 1 ; Richard Yates, 1861-5 ; Richard J. Oglesby, 1865-9, and 1873; John M. Palmer, ^ 1S69-73; John L. Beveridge, 1873-7; Shelby M. normal: state normal university CAIRO : BRIDGE OVER THE OHIO RIVER. 204 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. STATE INDUSTRIAL EXPOSITION. CuUom, 1S77-83; John M. Hamilton, 18S3-85 ; Richard J. Oglesby, 1885-9; ^"'i Joseph W. Fifer, 1889-93. Descriptive. — Illinois is separated from Iowa and Missouri by the Mississippi River, on the west ; from Kentucky, by the Ohio River, on the south and southeast ; from Indiana by the Wa- bash and a north and south artificial boundary, on the east ; and from Wisconsin by a straight line of 140 miles on the north. Illinois is a vast grassy plain, broken by many streams into small prairies, and imperceptibly sloping away toward the Mississippi. It has inexhaustible depths of heavy black vegetable loam, easily tilled and amazingly fertile, and free from stones, sand or gravel. The upland prairies are underlaid with deep drift deposits, over which lies three feet of vegetable and animal mould. The river bottoms form wide belts of alluvial soil. No territory of equal size in the world shows such a uniform productive- ness of soil. With an area exceeding that of New York, or of England and Wales com- bined, it has less than a square league of sterile land. Out of its 102 counties 74 have pro- duced yearly above 1,000,000 bushels of wheat and corn each ; and 24 more have produced above 500,000 each. The distribution of live-stock is equally general. The soil is so rich that deep ploughing and fertilizing are not needed, and the crflps are changed only when the prices of other grains than those cultivated rise. The Ameri- can Bottom follows the Mississippi from Alton to Kaskaskia, 90 miles long, with a width of two leagues. The Grand Prairie extends for 200 miles between the waters flowing to the Mississippi and those flowing to the Wabash, broken here and there by picturesque fringes and points of woodland. There are hundreds of other fertile plains, like the Bonpas, Looking-Glass, Bellevue, Burnt, Hancock, Long, Round, Ridge, and Lost Prairies. Their nutritious wild grasses were in ancient days the pasturage of myriads of buffalo. In marked contrast with the prairies are the bold bluffs and cliffs along the rivers, like Fountain Bluff, on the Mississippi ; the legend-haunted Starved Rock, Lover's Leap, and Buffalo Rock, on the Illinois ; and the heights over the weird Cave in the Rock, on the Ohio, a castellated pile of ledges, once the lair of river-pirates. The highest points in Illinois occur where the Wisconsin plateau enters the State, and ends in bluffs and hills 800 feet above the sea, and from 200 to 300 feet above the prairies. The inland ri^iprs, the Illinois, Sangamon, Rock and others, are bordered by rounded grassy bluffs, overlooking vast expanses of farm-lands, rich in grain. Here and there amid the prairies similar island-like mounds are uplifted from golden fields of wheat and green ex- panses of corn, crowned with dark groves. In the south rises the long clay ridge of Egypt, rich in northern fruits and vegetables. This low plateau runs from Grand Tower, on the Mississippi, to Shawneetown, on the Ohio, and is succeeded by a broken country, extend- ing to the confluence of the great rivers, where Cairo hides behind her levees. Most of the 288 streams flow toward the Mississippi, with available water-powers on their upper courses, fol- lowed by sluggish levels, with greatly fluctuating waters. The noble Mississippi forms the western boundary for 700 miles, and is traversed by an unceasing procession of steam- boats. The Ohio and Wabash, on the south and south- east, are also navigated by large commercial fleets. The Des-Plaines (150 miles) and Kankakee (230 miles) unite ■ :-ij«%,ttTS ^^ ■■-.'■■ 45 miles southwest of Chicago, and form the Illinois River, EVANSTON ; GARRETT INSTITUTE. running southwcst 500 miles, and reaching the Mississippi QUINCY : CITY HALL. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 205 CHICAGO : CALUMET CLUB. 20 miles above the Missouri. It is navigable 213 miles, to La Salle, through a rich level country ; and receives the waters of the Fox, Sangamon, and Vermillion. Rock River flows for 300 miles through open and undulating prairies. The Kaskaskia River has been navigated by steamboats up to Carlisle. The pleasant lake- country of Wisconsin extends into northeastern Illinois, whose Lake County is dotted with pretty sheets of clear water. The favorite of these is Fox Lake, about 50 miles from Chicago, and the chief of a series of forty shining lochs, famous for fish and wild-fowl, and sur- rounded by grassy knolls and wooded slopes. Scattered through this region are summer- hotels and club-houses, and on the lakes float many yachts and small steamers. Although a prairie State, Illinois is endowed with large areas of woodlands, amounting to seven per cent, in the 40 northern and Grand-Prairie counties, 15 in the 21 Illinois- Valley counties, and about 25 per cent, in the remaining country. There are a hundred species of native forest-trees, oak, ash, maple, and others, with cypress, sycamore, red-bud, and sweet gum in the south. The black walnut, poplar, and other native woods are used in immense quantities by furniture factories. The destruction of the native forests has been in part repaired by systematic tree-planting. The buffalo, elk and deer have vanished, and only a few lone wolves and foxes lurk in the remote forests. The wild pigeons still visit the forests by thousands. Of late years fish have been propagated in the depopulated streams, and guarded by stringent laws, and great numbers of wall-eyed pike, black and white bass, croppie, German carp, white and ringed perch, catfish, sunfish, buffalo, {lickerel and pike are now caught by rural anglers. The Climate is pleasant and healthy, and perpetual breezes blow over the prairies, modifying the summer- heats, while Lake Michigan makes the neighboring region warmer in winter and cooler in summer. The diversity of the climate depends largely on the extent of the State north and south, one end being in the latitude of Boston, the other in that of Fort Monroe. The seasons come with great regularity, favoring agriculture, and the rainfall is abundant and seasonable, averaging 36 inches in the north and 42 in the south. The fluctuations in tem- perature are often great and sudden, but the vital statistics show that the climate is re- markably healthy, while the crop reports bear witness to its high fitness for agricultural development and the growth of great and valuable supplies of breadstuffs. The Farm-Products of Illinois have reached $270,000,000 in a single year (grain, $145,000,000; live-stock, $50,000,000; dairy articles, $27,- 000,000; hay and potatoes, $26,000,000). The farm-property is valued at above $1,000,000,000. The average price of im- proved land is $33 an acre. New methods of scientific farm- ing, the use of modern machinery, the extension of careful underdraining, and the intelligence of thousands of skilled farmers are developing valuable agricultural properties. Illinois lies within the great American corn-belt, and holds the first rank among the States as a producer of corn. It has reached 325,000,000 bushels, and in the ten years, 1874-83, it averaged 227,000,000 bushels, with a yearly value of nearly $70,000,000 (30 bushels an acre, at 31 cents). The corn country lies north of the wheat belt, which begins south of Springfield, and extends southeast to the Wabash. Between 1870 and 1S83 the wheat-crop averaged 30,000,000 Inishels. Since CHICAGO ; STANDARD CLUB. CHICAGO ; UNION LEAGUE. 2o6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. KANKAKEE : EASTERN HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE. iSSo the market price for wheat has lieen so low that many farmers raised it at a loss, and have now abandoned the crop. The products of oats has exceeded loo, - 000,000 bushels in a year. Rye, barley, buckwheat, potatoes and hay are raiscil in enormous quantities. Among the other yearly products of this great garden of the West are 500,000 pounds of grass seed, 1,500,000 pounds of flaxseed, 11,000,000 pounds of broom-corn, 1,300,000 gallons of sorghum syrup, $3, 500,000 worth of eggs and poultry, 800,000 pounds of honey, and 100,000 pounds of beeswax. The Prairie State abounds in rich fruits, and has 300,000 acres of orchards and vineyards. Besides the famous products of the Alton peach-country, and the car-loads of strawberries sent from Cobden and Cen- tralia, the apples of Illinois have reached 600,000 bushels in a year, and raspberries and blackberries, cherries and plums grow in vast quantities. Over 3,000,000 pounds of grapes and 300,000 gallons of wine have come from the vineyards in a single year. Some part of the superabundant grain and the immense product of hay in the northern counties is devoted to the fattening of great flocks and herds. Illinois stands first among the States in horses, of which it possesses more than 1,000,000, -valued at $75,000,000, and including many thoroughbreds, and Norman and Clydesdale draught-horses. The cattle number 2,500,000, valued at over $50,000,000. Of these, 700,000 are milch-cows, including great numbers of Jerseys and Holsteins. Although 100,000,000 gallons of milk are furn- ished to the cities yearly, enough remains to make 25,000,000 pounds "5?%-. °f butter and 7,000,000 pounds of cheese. The State has over 2,000,000 hogs. The hog-cholera has carried off nearly 500,000 head in a single year, but still the business advances, the herds including thousands of Berkshires, Poland-Chinas, and Chester Whites. At one time Illinois had 2,000,000 sheep, but the ravages of dogs and the rise of shepherding farther west have caused the flocks to fall off to 600,000. The wool-clip has reached 6,000,000 pounds in a year. The Mineral Product is of large and increasing value. The coal-fields underlie three fourths of Illinois, producing excellent bituminous, block and cannel coal, from six irregu- lar workable beds. There are 1,100 mines, in 45 counties, employing 24,000 miners, and producing 12,000,000 tons a year. Most of these are in Sangamon, Macoupin and La-Salle Counties, and in the Belleville district, where the seam is six feet thick. It is obtained with great ease, being near the surface ; and its wide distribution, with ready transporta- tion over the network of prairie railroads and along the contiguous rivers, makes it of high economic value in this region of many factories. Much of it is pure enough to use without coking, for smeltmg iron-ores, in the Iron-Mountain district of Missouri and the mineral country of Michigan. Some iron-ores are found and worked ; and in the north lie exten- sive beds of peat. Copper occurs along the Pecatonica, in small quantities. The Galena lead-mines have been in operation for eighty years, and scar the rough and deso- late hill-country for leagues. This industry cul- " "^^JWS^iJI^^'' k minated in 1845, when 20,000 tons were ship- ped. The competition of the lead-mines of the Rocky Mountains has reduced the output. Zinc is found with the lead, in paying quantities, with furnaces at Peru and La Salle. There are chicaoo li ■.col n pariv A « 1 11.1 ,iLii« quincy: sailors' and soldiers' THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 207 salt-wells in the south, yielding twelve ounces of salt to each gallon of water. The Niagara limestone of Lemont and Joliet is a fine-grained, light-drab stone, composed of the rounded grains of shells. It is easily worked, and the product of the quarries goes to all the in- terior States. There are 40 limestone quarries, em- ploying 2,200 men. The sandstones of the upper Illinois valley are used in glass-works. Varie- gated marble is produced ; and potter's-clay and min- eral-paint abound in the elgin : northern hospital for the insane. south. The sulphur and iron springs of Jefferson County have a local repute ; and there are medicinal waters near Ottawa and Peru. Government. — The governor and several executive officers are elected every four years. The State includes 51 districts, each of which sends a senator and three representatives to the General Assemlily. The Supreme Court has seven justices, and there are appellate, circuit, and county courts. The Constitution of 1870 replaced that of 1848, and is a State paper of remarkable perspicuity and wisdom. The population in 1850 included 26,000 New-Englanders, 112,000 from the Middle States, 112,300 from the South, 107,000 from other Western States, 52,000 from Great Britain and Ireland, 39,000 from Germany, and 344,000 natives of Illinois. In 1880 Illinois liad 60,000 New-Englanders, 224,000 from the Middle States, 150,000 Southerners, and 1,700,000 natives. In all this great inland empire, virtue, mercy and peace dwell, and the blessings of religion and education are dif- fused. Industry is stimulated by ownership, to a larger extent than in other communities ; and the people live in great comfort and con- one sixth in manufacturing, and nearly one sixth in trade and transportation. Charities and Corrections are represented by thirteen State institutions. The Peni- tentiary at Joliet has 1,340 prisoners; and the Penitentiary at Chester has 670. The Northern, Southern, Eastern and Central Hospitals for the Insane, at Elgin (520 inmates), Anna (630), Kankakee (1,600), and Jacksonville (900), occupy buildings and grounds that have cost above !f!5, 000,000. The Kankakee Asylum is one of the largest establishments on the detached-ward or village system. The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, founded at Jacksonville in 1839, has 530 pupils. A similar Institution for the Blind, near the same city, has 150 students. The Asylum for Feeble-Minded Children, at Lincoln, has 370 inmates, with industrial training, and a farm of 400 acres. The Illinois National Guard is limited by ^ ,„, lawto4,oooofficersand enlisted men, organ- ized into two brigades. The First Brigade (headquarters at Chicago) comprises the First and Second Infantry, at Chicago ; the Third Infantry, with headquarters at Rock ford ; the Fourth Infantry, with head- quarters at Joliet ; and Battery D, at Chicago. The Second Brigade, with head- quarters at Springfield, contains the Fifth Jacksonville : the state blind asTlum, LINCOLN: STATE ASYLUM FOR FEEBLE-MINDED CHILDREN tent. Of the people of Illinois nearly two fifths are at school, one fourth in farmin. 2o8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Mi w EVANSTON : NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY. Infantry, with headquarters at Springfield ; the Sixth Infantry (Moline); the Eighth Infantry (Clreenup); and Battery A, at Danville. The infantry is equipped with the same arms as the United-States Army, and the uniform is identical with that worn in the same service. Camp Lincoln, near Springfield, is the State Camp of Instruction ; and the troops are often stationed there for tours of military duty. Camp Lin- coln is one mile long, and has one of the best rifle- ranges in the country. While the guard is in camp especial attention is given to instruc- tion in rifle-firing, skirmish drill and guard duties. The batteries are equipped with four cannon each, and Gatling guns. The State troops have frequently rendered valuable service, in support of the civil authorities, in times of riots and strikes. The first post of the Grand Army of the Republic was mustered in, April 6, 1866, at Decatur, by Major B. F. Stephenson, and numbered twelve comrades. Now that this great military fraternity includes 7,000 posts and 400,000 comrades, the silver anniversary of the order (1891) is to be commemorated by the dedication, at Decatur, of a National Memorial Hall, as a storehouse of records and mementoes and curiosities, a temple of patriotism and a school of loyalty. The Soldiers' and Sailors' Home has 900 inmates, in pretty cottages, where squads of 50 dwell and have their meals furnished, the entire body uniting only at church. The headquarters, cottages, hospital, kitchen and dairy occupy spacious ornamental grounds, near Quincy. The Soldiers' Orphans' Home, at Normal, has 350 inmates. National Institutions. — The Rock-Island Arsenal is the most completely appointed of Ameri- can arsenals, having also an armory, powder-works, and foundry. Here Gen. Rodman perfected his great inventions of cooling cannon-castings from ' ., ;. the inside, and prism or perforated-cake powder URBANA : uNivERbiTv OF ILLINOIS- f^j. |^g^^,y gyj^g_ jj^e bulldiugs arc of stone, and in- clude the soldiers' barracks, rolling and forging mills, magazines, and great shops for making ordnance stores. When in full operation, the Arsenal can arm, equip and supply 750,000 troops. It is traversed by railways, and connected with Moline, Rock Island and Daven- port by bridges across the Mississippi. Rock Island covers 970 acres. It was acquired by Gen. Harrison from the Sac and Fox Indians, by a treaty made at St. Louis, in 1804; and in 1816 the Eighth United-States Infantry erected Fort Armstrong, which was garrisoned for 20 years. In 1863 Congress established here the chief Arsenal for the Mississippi Val- ley, which Gen. T. J. Rodman commanded from 1865 to 1871. In 1888 the Government began the construction of Fort Sheridan, a ten-company fort, at Highwood, north of Chicago. The National Cemetery, at Mound City, has the graves of 5,226 soldiers of the war for the Union. Education is served by permanent productive school-funds exceeding $10,000,000, drawn from Government land-grants, and the surplus revenue distributed in 1837. The receipts for schools exceed $11,- 000,000 yearly. The public-school and State educational property is valued at !|27, 000,000. Illinois has 1,200,000 per- sons of school age, of whom 760,000 are f enrolled in the public schools, with an ' average daily attendance of 518,043. There ' are 12,000 school-districts, with 24,000 Chicago : western theological seminary. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 209 ROCKFORD ROCKFORD SEMINARY teachers, and 160,000 books in the libraries. In private schools 100,000 students are enrolled. The Illinois State Normal University, founded at Nor- mal, near Bloomington, in 1857, has 16 instructors and 720 students. The Southern Normal Univer- sity, at Carbondale, has 16 instructors and 450 pupils, mostly from the southern counties. The Cook-County Normal School is at Normal Park ; and there is a Manual Training School at Chicago, with 220 students. Illinois has 24 colleges and universities, with 270 instructors and 2,000 students, besides 2,200 in their preparatory departments. The University of Illinois, opened at Urbana in 1S6S, has 35 instructors and 350 students (50 women), besides 125 preparatory and special pupils. It includes colleges of agriculture ; engineering (mechanical, civil and mining, and architecture) ; natural science ; and ancient and modern languages ; and schools of military science, and of art and design. The University has a beautiful location on 610 acres of high rolling prairie. It received the Congressional land-grant of 480,000 acres, in 1862, besides liberal State appropriations. This institution was the outgrowth of a movement for the higher education of the industrial classes, and has one honorary scholarship for each county, besides farmers' and builders' short courses. It makes prominent instruction in branches of learning relating to agriculture and the mechanic arts. Northwestern University, an institution of large and growing endowment, organized by the Methodists in 1855, is situated at Evanston, twelve miles from Chicago. The College of Liberal Arts has 250 students ; the Conservatory of Music, 190; the School of Art, 20; the Preparatory School, 600. Of the professional schools, in Chicago, the College of Medicine has 210 students; Law, 140; Pharmacy, 200; and Dental and Oral Surgery, 25. Univer- sity Hall is a handsome stone building, containing recitation-rooms, chapel, museum, and library (25,000 volumes). The Hall of Science provides laboratories andj lecture-rooms, admirably constructed and equipped. The new Dearborn Observatory, lately completed, according to the best plans, contains an equatorial refracting telescope of great power, hese buildings are situated in a beautiful campus, shaded ^ native oaks, directly on the shore of Lake Michigan. The 'oman's College, in separate grounds, and the College Cot- tage, are homes for women students. The Garrett Biblical Institute, founded in 1856 as a theological school, has 170 students. Its buildings, the elegant Memorial Hall, and Heck Hall, are in the University grounds, but the institu- tion is under separate organization. Also in Evanston, and aftiliated with the In- stitute, are the Norwegian-Danish, and the Swedish theological schools. The new Chicago University was en- dowed by J. D. Rockefeller, in 1889, with $600,000, and in 1890 with !§< 1,000, - 000 more, to which Marshall Field added a gift of land. This institution hopes to rival the ancient universities of the East, in equipment and learning. Shurtleff College, at Upper Alton, UPPER ALTON: SHURTLEFF COLLEGE. was foundcd in 1832, as a seminary, A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SPRINGFIELD : LINCOLN MONUMENT AND TOMB. largely to educate Baptist clergymen. It is co-educational, with theo- logical and scientific schools. It was named for its chief benefactor, Dr. N. B. ShurtlefT, of Boston. Illinois College, founded by Presbyterians in 1830, occupies a pleasant ridge overlooking Jacksonville. Knox College, founded at Galesburg in 1841, has 174 students. Wheaton College dates from 1855. The Illinois Wesleyan University is a Methodist institution, founded at Bloomington in 1850, and with 196 students. Lombard University, at Galesburg, pertains to the Universa- lists. Lake-Forest University is a successful Presbyterian school, with 100 students. Among the Methodist schools are Red- ding College, at Abingdon, with 78 students ; Chaddock Col- lege, at Quincy ; and the Cierman-English College, at Galena. The chief Catholic colleges are St. Ignatius (Jesuit), at Chicago ; St. Francis Solanus (Franciscan), at Quincy ; St. Viateur's, at Bourbonnais Grove ; and St. Joseph's (Franciscan), at Teutopolis. These have nearly 500 collegiate students. The chief higher schools for women are at Jacksonville, opened in 1830; Rockford, 1S49 ; Mount Carroll, 1853; Knoxville, 1868; and Lake Forest, 1869. The Union Baptist Theological Seminary at Morgan Park, twelve miles south of Chicago, has 133 students. There are 20 in its Dano-Norwegian, and 19 in its Swedish department. The library contains 20,000 volumes. The McCormick Theological Seminary, opened in 1859 at Chicago, has eleven instructors, and lOO Presbyterian divinity students. The Chicago Theological Seminary (Congrcgationalist), opened in 1858, has several good build- ings facing Union Park, with nine instructors, 65 students and 350 graduates. Augustana College and Theological Seminary occupies a beautiful site near Rock Island, and is controlled by the Swedish Lutheran Augustana Synod of the United States. Wartburg Seminary at Mendota is also Lutheran. Eureka Col- lege's Bible department has three teachers and 30 students. The Union Biblical Institution of the Evangelical Association is at Naperville. Methodist theological schools are conducted at the German-English College, at Galena, and McKendree College ; and Wheaton Theological Seminary was founded in 1 88 1, by the Methodist Protestants. Lombard University, has a small Universalist theo- logical school. The divinity schools of Illinois are among the most important in America. The Bible Institute for missions has several buildings at Chicago, and 320 men and women students. The Bible is the only text-book, in its practical application to soul- saving and the Christian life ; and the students are brought into face-to-face contact with the masses, in house-visiting and mission work. There is also a department for musical training, as an adjunct to religious work. Dwight L. Moody, the evangelist, is the head of this unique institution. Libraries. — The Chicago Public Library has grown since 1S74 to 150,000 volumes. The great Newberry Library, en- dowed with $2,500,000, is to occupy the Ogden Block, at Chicago. It already has above 40,000 volumes, in American local history, biography, astronomy, music and sociology, and is under the care of Wm. F. Poole. This library is intended solely for reference. The Crerar Library, endowed by John l^ Crerar with $2,225,000, will be in the South Division of Chicago, if his will is not broken by the contestants. Art. — The Art Institute of Chicago has large collections and loan collections of paintings and art-objects, and a flourish- ing school of art. Among the artistic memorials of Illinois are St. Gaudens's noble statue of Lincoln, Count Lelaing's statue EVANSTON : DEARBORN OBSERVATORY. CHICAGO ; ZION TEMPLE. THE STATE OE ILLE\'OIS. HE CHICAGO TRIBUNE. of La Salle, the Drexel monument, and the tall column crowned with the statue of Douglas, all at Chicago, ; the statue of Grant, at Cialena ; and the great monument over the remains of Abraham Lincoln, at Springfield. The Rebisso equestrian statue of Gen. Grant is being prepared for Lincoln Park, Chicago ; and Partridge's statue of Shakespeare will be placed in the same public ground. Other monumental works adorn several Illinois cities. Ne'wspapers began here with the Illinois Sitn, published at Kaskaskia, about 1S14, and followed by the Illinois Eini- gnuit, at Shawneetown, in 1818, and The Spectator, at Ed- wardsville, in 1819. The Chicago Trilnitie, founded in 1847, has risen to a commanding position among American news- papers. In 1853 Joseph Medill bought a large interest in the paper ; and four years later it absorbed the Democratic Press, whose publishers, Wm. Bross and J. L. Scripps, entered the Tribune company, together with Alfred Cowles, Dr. C. L. Ray, and Horace White (now of the New- York Evening Tost). The "fire-proof" 7>77'////d' building was burned in the great fire of 187 1 ; and a year later the present structure rose on the same site, at its time one of the best newspaper build- ings in this country. A few years prior and subsequent to the fire, Horace White had editorial control, and steered the Tribune through the Greeley campaign (Mr. Medill having retired, and being Mayor dur- ing a part of the time), but with such results, that in 1874 he relinquished the control into the hands of Mr. Medill, where it has since remained. Under his judicious management, aided by a large and competent corps of employees, it has risen to its present commanding position, not only as a news-gatherer and political organ, but as one of the largest adver- tising mediums in the United States. It has always been a judicious and conservative champion of the Republican party ; has opposed the follies of fiatism, prohibition and Tam- many rule in cities ; secured the passage of the admirable Illinois high-license law ; and strenuously opposed ultra tariff taxation. The German-Americans of the Northwest have a noble representative newspaper in the Illinois Staats-Zeitung, which was founded in 1847, ^7 Robert Hoeffger, who alone solicited all the advertisements and subscriptions, set the type, ran the press, and then went out and distributed the edition of 200 copies to the subscribers. In 1 851 the daily edition began, with 70 subscribers. The combined circulation of all the editions is now 97,000 copies; and the Staats-Zei- tung Building, owned and occupied by the paper, at Chicago, cost, with its equipment, over $300,000. The Illinois Staats-Zeitung was the first German paper to dis- cover Republican principles in the Buffalo Platform of 1848; and afterwards it antagonized the Nebraska Bill, and led the Germans into the Republican party, fighting hard for Fremont, and then for Lincoln. Latterly it has been a power also in municipal, county and State politics. There is but one German-American paper with greater wealth and circulation, and none surpasses it in ability, influence and popularity with myriads of German readers all over the United States. Many millions of Americans get their knowledge of events of the day from "patent insides," or ready-printed sheets furnished to country newspapers. This plan of auxiliary sheets was first developed, in America, by Ansel N. Kellogg, publisher of the Baraboo (Wis.) Republic, in 1S61, when his printers had gone to the war, and left him under the necessity of having his paper printed at the Madison yournal ofhce. Four years later he CHICAGO : ILLINOIS STAATa-ZEITUNG. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE IN/TFJ) STATES. NEWSPAPER CO. went to Chicago, and founded the business of supplying "patent insides " for rural papers, with the freshest news and the best selected and most interesting miscellany. He began with eight papers, and the company now supplies over 2,000, and issues more than 100 different editions weekly, edited with conspicuous ability, by a large force of experienced journalists. The A. N. Kellogg Newspaper Company has eight offices for supplying its patrons : Chicago, with 400 newspapers ; St. Louis, with 400 ; Cleveland, 200 ; Kansas City, 267 ; Cincinnati, 230 ; Memphis, 200; St. Paul, 1 50; and Wichita, 100. Out of this enterprise has grown an immense advertising business, in which reputable advertising of the largest and shrewdest American houses is dis- played on the auxiliary sheets of these groups of country and shire-town weeklies, with amazingly profitable results. Chief Cities. — Chicago is a typical Western and American city, the largest west of the Alleghany Mountains, and the second in size in the New World. About the year 1850 this outgrowth of an Indian trading-post and a frontier garrison began to challenge atten- tion, and in the ensuing decade its population rose from 30,000 to 112,172. The new metropolis commanded the unrivalled inland navigation of the great lakes, and her complex systems of railways reached out into all parts of the rising West. The advanced position thus early seized has been held by the wide-awake citizens. Checaqua, the Indian name of this locality, is said by some to mean "wild onion," by others to mean "strong." Possibly either is correct. The first settler was a negro, Jean Baptiste Point au Sable, in 1 790. Three years later he departed, and Le Mai, a Frenchman, came, selling out, in turn, to John Kinzie, of the American Fur Co., the first permanent settler. October 9 and 10, 1871, Chicago was nearly destroyed by a great fire, which consumed $200,000,000 worth of property, and left 100,000 people homeless. The Chicago River is a bayou running westward from Lake Michigan for five eighths of a mile, and then forking into the North and South Branches, nearly parallel with the lake. The South Side, between the river, the South Branch and the lake, contains the wholesale business, banks, exchanges, hotels and ^-^^'^^^^' t SaL CHICAGO : THE UNION STOCK-YARDS. THE S TA TE OE ILIJXOIS. 213 PEORIA ; COURT-HOUSE. chief public buildings, with a fine residence-quarter beyond. There is also a pleasant region of homes on the Ntirth Side. The site of Chicago was a fiat swamp along a bayou, and in order to secure proper drainage the city was raised ten or twelve feet, at enormous cost. To avoid the a discharge of the sewage into the lake, the city artificially reversed the course of the M Chicago River, so that it now empties into the Illinois River. The grain-trade employs thirty immense grain-elevators and store- houses, handling 140,000,000 bushels yearly. Since 1870 over 2,500,000,000 bushels have been received here. The Union Stock-Yards are the largest in the world. They were opened in 1865, and cost $3,000,000. They cover 350 acres (three fifths roofed over) with eight miles of streets ; and receive over 8,000,000 head of live-stock yearly. More than $200,000,000 worth of live-stock is sold here yearly. Near by are enormous meat-packing houses, with modern appliances of wonderful ingenuity. The meats ship- ped from Chicago yearly exceed $100,000,000 in value, l>eing almost one third of the entire export. Goods are imported in bond from Europe to Chicago to the amount of $4,000,000 worth yearly. The exports are vastly greater, and consist mainly of wheat and meat. Chicago has a number of grand public buildings. The Court House and City Hall is a noble pile of French Renaissance architecture, of Athens marble and Indiana granite, with statuary, erected at a cost of $4,000,000. The Post-Oftice and Custom House is in the Venetian Romanesque style, with rich interior decorations of marble. It cost $6,000,000. The water supply of Chicago is taken from a crib two miles out in Lake Michigan, whence it passes through a submarine tunnel to the shore, and is pumped into a standpipe 175 feet high. The works cost $3,000,000, and furnish 150, 000, 000 gallons daily, yielding a considerable revenue to the city above expenses. A new ten-foot tunnel leads four miles out, to a crib now under construction. One of the mechanical wonders of Chicago is the great gas-holder, built by R. D. Wood & Co. of Philadelphia for the Chicago Gas-Light & Coke Co., 182 feet in diameter and 127I feet high, with a capacity of 3,100,000 cubic feet. It has three telescopic lifts. Chicago manufactures are of great extent' and variety, $7,000,000 being invested in making agricultural implements, with an annual product of $16,000,000; and $3,000,000 in carriage-making, with a product of $5,000,000. The yearly' product of furniture is $6,500,000; of clothing, $8,000,000; of leather, $6,500,000; of iron and steel, $20,000,000; of planed lumber, $15,500,000; of printing, $8,000,000; of malt liquors, $6,500,000; of distilled liquors, $8,500,000 ; of soap, $3,000,000 ; of tobacco and cigars, $5,000,000 ; of cut stone, $5,000,000; of chemicals, $3,000,000; besides large quantities of flour and its products, sheet metal, brass, hats and furs, and confectionery. Chicago is not merely a large region covered with houses and factories. It has a noble (though recent) development in culture and letters, with libraries of the first magnitude, educa- tional institutions of far-reaching importance, and rich musical and artistic developments. The parks have cost $10,000,000, and almost surround the city with a belt of verdure, Lincoln Park (310 acres) on the north being united to Humboldt (194 acres), Garfield (185 acres) and Douglas Parks (171 acres) on CHICAGO; FIRST REGIMENT ARMORY, the west, and thcsc to the great South-Side Parks (165 acres) CHICAGO : CHURCH OF THE COVENANT. 214 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED S7\4TES. CHICAGO : SYNAGOGUE ANSHE MAARIV. by a system of noble boulevards and parkways. These broad pleasure- grounds are adorned with many acres of rich flowers, verdant lawns, lakes, bits of forests, shore drives, zoological gardens, and con- sei \ atories. IJbby Prison, in which many thousand Ihiion officers were confined during the Secession War, was bought at Richmond, in 1888, taken down, and carried to Chicago, where its carefully numbered beams and stones were put together again, and now these horrid walls enshrine a museum of war relics. The Central Music Hall and the German Opera House, the Standard Club, and the impressive synagogue of the Congregation Anshe Maariv, and other ornaments of the city were constructed by Adler & Sulli- van, the able architects of the Auditorium. The Anglo-American race is a family of born travellers, and its members are never more happy than when traversing vast distances, in search of variety in climate, or scenery, or trade. They also demand the utmost possible amount of comfort while on their wander- ings ; and the ingenuity of their brightest minds has been directed toward mitigating the arduous features of travel. The first large westward migration in America was that of the three Puritan churches, from Boston to Hartford, and all this godly company, even to women and children, walked the whole way, through the pathless woods. Somewhat over 200 years later, the vast migrations of Americans to Pike's Peak and California were largely conducted by the slowly crawling wagon-trains, requiring weary months to cross the Plains. But now the luxurious traveller crosses the wide continent in five or six days, eating delicious meals at regular hours, sleeping in a good bed at night, and throughout the long day watching the flying landscape through plate-glass windows, and reclining in a richly upholstered easy-chair. Bathing, shaving, reading, writing and eating are provided for in the cars of to-day. A large part of the honor for this achievement belongs to George M. Pullman, whose inventions and devices have been successfully applied to make travel- ling a pleasure instead of a pain. The sovereign excellence of his improved cars is shown by the fact that they are now in use on above 70,000 miles of railways, in America and Europe, crossing the Alps and the Carpathians as well as the Alleghanies and the Rockies, and traversing Great Britain in every direction. These commodious and luxurious vehicles are a development, pure and simple, and no one could realize how many small elements enter into their tout ensemble of comfort, each one carefully thought out and elaborated, and fitted to its place. Almost every year adds some new and desirable improvement, and the Pullman car of the twentieth century will be the acme of all imaginable security and luxury. A fundamental principle with Mr. Pullman made his work a success, and the same principle gives to his corporation an assured permanency — it is to supply the public to the highest extent that they will pay for, always leading the people somewhat beyond their demands. Pullman's Palace Car Company was founded in 1867, with a paid-up capital of $1,000,000. The healthy and steady in- crease in the business has necessitated suc- cessive increases in the capital stock, until it now amounts to $20,000,000, all paid in, dollar for dollar, without a thought of watering. These extended operations have been conducted on the strictest business principles, always paymg dividends. Jacksonville : institution for the deaf and dumb. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 215 PULLMAN : THE ARCADE AND PUBLIC SQUARE, AND THE PU In 1880 Mr. Pullman founded the city of Pullman, on the shore of Lake Calumet, twelve miles south of Chicago, having acquired 3, 500 acres of land here, on the open prairie. Here he transferred the greater part of the company's works, where the operatives could have the benefits of pure air and water, generous liberty, and deliverance from the seduc- tions of a great city. Over $600,000 was spent underground, on a scientific drainage and sewage system, before a house was erected ; and then the best landscape-gardeners, civil engineers, and architects laid out and built the city, with wide and parked streets, hand- some public buildings, parks and theatre and churches, convenient and picturesque build- ings, and model factories. The greater part of the town is owned by the company, and the workmen are tenants, but for an equal sum get far better homes than elsewhere, while the corporation also receives a remunerative interest on its investment. The operatives, how- ever, can buy their homes, and are not at all compelled to live on the Pullman Company property. In fact, about 2,000 do not, and many of these own their places. Pullman is fast becoming an ideal industrial community, unapproached to-day by any city of its size in America. It has a large diversity of manufactures, and its churches, schools, public build- ings, and homes, are of a high order. It is one of the places in this country to which foreign visitors are always attracted. One of the high culminating points of American civilization is shown in the wonderful Auditorium Building, in Chicago, which was erected in 1887-90, at a cost of $3,500,000. This enormous structure fronts on three of the chief streets, presenting impressive and commanding fa9ades of Romanesque architecture, abounding in strong round arches. It is as nearly fire-proof as a structure can be made, being built of granite and limestone, iron and steel, witli impenetrable walls, and nothing inflammable except the furniture. This greatest private building enterprise ever undertaken in America has been entitled "the Parthenon of modern civiliza- tion," as the richest type of the age of business and commercial activity and individual comfort. The Auditorium was conceived and developed by Ferdinand W. Peck, a wealthy citizen of Chicago, Chicago: pullman building. 2l6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and prominent in many enterprises, who recognized the need in the city of a grand building for political, musical, military and other conventions and reunions, to serve the metropoli- tan aspirations of the Lake City, and to promote fraternity among the people of the Repub- lic. The architects were Adler & Sullivan, with Prof. Wm. R. Ware as adviser, and Gen. Wm. Sooy Smith as consulting engineer. The Auditorium Association includes several hundred leading citizens of Chicago, who have taken stock in this national and patriotic enterprise. Among the component parts of the Auditorium Building are the Business Por- tion, including handsome stores and 136 offices; the Tower Observatory, 270 feet high, and occupied by the United-States Signal Service on its 17th, i8th, and 19th stories; the Re- cital Hall, in cream and gold, seating 500 persons ; and the Auditorium, the largest and most sumptuous theatre and opera-house in the world, with the most complete and costly stage, and an organ of sweetness, and a seating can be enlarged to 8,000 The Auditorium mighty pile, and includes grand dining-room and floor, and a banquet - trusses over the theatre, civilization finds a home house, which is at all Auditorium Tower has ble sights of Chicago, CHICAGO THE AUDTORUM unusual power and capacity of 4, loo, which in time of conventions. Hotel is a part of this 400 guest-rooms, with a kitchen on the tenth hall built of steel, on Every luxury of modern in this imrivalled public points fire-proof. The become one of the nota- and few visitors to the city fail to go to its summit, for there can be obtained views so grand as always to be remem- bered. Both the architectural and decorative features of this unrivalled edifice are entirely original in their treatment, and mark a new era in the history of construction. It is generally admitted that the Auditorium proper, or the great hall, surpasses all the opera-houses of both Europe and this country in beauty of decoration and finish, as well as in capacity. This architectural pride of Ihe Great West occupies a charming site overlooking Lake Michigan and its commercial fleets, while close around it surge the life and activity of Chicago. The broad and shady streets of Springfield, "The Flower City," intersect each other on a pleasant prairie, in a rich farming and coal-mining country near the Sangamon River. Springfield has been the capital of Illinois since 1837. Two miles north, in Oak-Ridge Cemetery, is the great Lincoln Monument, over the remains of Abraham Lincoln. Peoria, beautifully situated on Peoria I^ake, has costly public buildings, several large elevators, ship- ping 30,000,000 bushels of corn and oats yearly, and important manufactures. Quincy is a beautiful city, on a bold limestone bluff above the Mississippi, founded in 1822 on the site of an ancient Sac town, and endowed with noble new public buildings, and large industries in flour-milling, meat-packing, stove and wagon making, and the construction of machinery. Rock Island and Moline are contiguous manufacturing cities, on the Mississippi, which here falls seven feet in three miles, affording an immense water- power. Cairo, on the low bottoms at the con- fluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, has never reached the commercial prominence fore- shadowed by its position, and is only kept from inundation by a four-mile circuit of levees. Aurora, a promising factory and railroad centre, was the first city in the world to light its streets with electricity (in 1 881), and opened the first free public- 5: AUDITORIUM HOTEL, -i i • .1 r^^ . rrii- DINING HALL. schools m the State oi Illmois, many ycars ago. CHICAGO: AUDITORIUM HOTEL, STAIRCASE. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 217 iCHlCAGO^^y CHICAGO: THE WESTERN SHORE OF LAKE MICHIGAN. KLVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ROCK ISLAND, ON THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Bloomington is an educational city, with large car-works and foundries. Alton stands on high broken ground fronting the Mississippi, three miles above the inflowing of the Missouri, and has valuable factories. Galena, perched upon the steep Fevre bluffs, dates from 1826, and is the capital of the lead - min- ing country. Jol- iet, forty miles southwest of Chi- cago, was founded in 1834, and has factories and quar- ries, the Joliet branch of the Illinois Steel Co., and the State Penitentiary. East St. Louis, practically a part of St. Louis (Mo.), is a growing city, with many industries. Railways in Illinois have over 13,000 miles of track, built at a cost of $330,000,000, and carrying yearly 32,»oo,ooo passengers, and 54,000,000 tons of freight. The earnings from freight are four times those from passengers. Their taxes in Illinois amount to nearly $3,000,000. There are but three counties (Pope, Hardin and Calhoun) that are not reached by railways. The pioneer Illinois line (in what was until lately the Wabash, St. -Louis & Pacific system) was opened from Springfield to Meredosia in 1838, but mules soon supplanted the locomotives, and the line fell into disuse. When the Galena & Chicago Union Railroad was begun, in 1847, its projectors got an authorization to build a turnpike instead, in case of need. By the end of 1848, the tracks had only reached Harlem, ten miles out, and a year later they got to Elgin. Congress granted to Illinois, in 1850, alternate sections of land along the routes from Galena and from Chicago to Cairo, to aid in building a railway; and the State transferred this domain to the Illinois Central Railroad Co., which rapidly built the line. It contracted to pay the State yearly seven per cent, of its gross earnings, for lands, etc., and Illinois has received over $10,000,000 from this source. The Illinois Central runs north from Cairo to near Centralia, whence one of its lines traverses the middle of the State north by Decatur and Bloomington to Mendota, and thence northwest to Galena and East Dubuque ; and another line passes more to the eastward to Chicago. There are 500 miles of leased branch roads, making the total mileage 1,479. The company has 8,500 employees, receiving $5,000,000 a year. The history of the Chicago & Northwestern Railway system furnishes a striking illus- tration of the rapid growth of the railway interests of the United States. From the Galena & Chicago Union Rail- way, consisting of 42 miles in 184S, has grown one of the most extensive and prosperous systems in the world. From the date mentioned, year by year its lines have been ex- tended, until at the pres- ent time the Chicago & Northwestern Railway system embraces over 7,200 miles of thoroughly CAIRO: THE CONFLUENCE OF THE OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI RIVERS. equipped railway. Its l-OriT DEARBORN. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 2T9 lines reach the great timber and mining regions of northern Michigan ; St. Taul, Minneap- olis and Duluth in Minnesota ; across Wisconsin, Minnesota and South Dakota to Pierre ; and through Illinois, Iowa and Nebraska into the famous Black Hills of Dakota and the oil-fields of central Wyoming. By a close traffic alliance with the Union Bacific system, superb vestibuled trains, composed of reclining chair-cars and palace sleeping and dining cars, are now run through between Chicago and Denver (Col.) and Portland (Oregon), traversing most of the principal cities of Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Idaho and Ore- gon. A palace sleeping-car is also run through between Chicago and San Francisco ; and l.he journey between I-ake Michigan and the Pacific Coast can now be made in the greatest comfort without chan.i;c of cars. The hunting and fishing regions of the Northwest are readily accessible by the lines of the Chicago & Noithwestern Railway, and the perfect train- service between Chicago and the beautiful lakes and many health-resorts of W^isconsin, Michigan, and Minnesota has made the SOUTH PARK bTAriUN ILLCtlM ■.'.H^^^-^jl !| I \ \ I "I !! II II ,S s [III __ UNION STATION^ p.FTw a c. c&A, c.Bao. cwas CHICAGO ■ THE RAILWAY STATIONS Northwestern the favorite route of spoitsmen and tourists. With its well-ballasted load bed, superior equipment and excellent train serviee the Northwestern may justly clann to be a model railway in all that the term implies. The Burlington Route, Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad, is one of the largest and most perfect railroad systems in the world. It extends from Chicago, St. Louis and Peoria on the east to Denver, Cheyenne and the Black Hills on the west ; reaching between these terminals the Missouri-River centers of Kansas City, St. Joseph, AtchLson, Council Bluffs and Omaha ; and serving many important centers of trade in Illinois, Iowa and Nebraska, such as Quincy, Burlington, Nebraska City and Lincoln. Its lines also extend from St. Louis on the south to St. Paul and Minneapolis on the north ; and its main lines and branches, aggregating 7,000 miles, are to be found in ten Western States. They pene- trate in every direction the great corn-belt of Nebraska, Colorado and Kansas, and serve the mining and manufacturing regions, and many well-established cities and towns in that territory and in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Missouri and Wyoming. Its geographical posi- tion, and its relation to connecting lines, make it a leading factor in the traffic of the AVJVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. IICAGO : STUDEEAKtH BROS. m. ieffiii! Northwest, West and Southwest. The system employs 25,000 men ; and at its centers of traffic it maintains extensive and commodious facilities. In 1889 the Burlington Route carried into Chicago 2,552,218 head of live-stock and 36,059,372 bushels of grain ; or 235^ per cent, of the live-stock, and 22 per cent, of the grain carried into that city. Its train service is un- excelled in time and equipment, and includes all modern appli- ances for the comfort of patrons. The Burlington's trains leave the great Union Depot, at Chicago, which is also used by the Fort-Wayne and Pan-handle Routes, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul, and the Alton lines. Two hundred trains leave this station daily. Of the eastward trunk lines from Chicago, the Michigan Central, with its connections, the New- York Central and the Boston & Albany, is pre-eminent. Its four daily fast through trains are unsurpassed, perfect in equipment and service, with palatial sleeping, parlor and dining cars, running through to Buffalo, New York and Boston, are operated with a trained care and vigilance that allow a high rate of speed with entire safety and comfort. The famous North Shore Limited, heated by steam and lighted by the Pintsch gas system, and supplied with every possible convenience and luxury, runs from New York to Chicago in twenty-five hours. This line, known as "The Niagara-Falls Route," from its being the only line running directly by and in full view of the great cataract (and stopping its day trains there five minutes for the convenience of its passengers), is admirably constructed, and laid with 80-pound steel rails. Its numerous branch lines traverse the great State of Michigan, running from Toledo, Detroit and Jackson through the Saginaw and Grand-River Valleys, to the Straits of Mackinaw and the principal cities of the State. Quick to adopt the new inven- tions of science and the results of experience, and to anticipate the demands of the travel- ling public, it keeps in line with the great railways of the world. One of the foremost routes from Chicago to the South is the Louisville, New-Albany & Chicago Railroad, which runs from the great Illinois metropolis across the State of Indiana to Louisville and down into Ken- tucky, and also to Indianapolis, connecting for Cincinnati and beyond. This is a favorite avenue between the tremendous business activities of the Northwest and the restful atmosphere and climate of the semi-tropical Southeast, the fragrant pine- forests of Georgia and the orange-groves of Florida. Tlic traveller lies down at eight o'clock, at Chicago, and awakens at 7.15 in the morning, at Louisville, 323 miles away, and well on his way to the land of winter sunshine and repose. This is the famous "Monon Route" (so-named from a city where its divisions intersect) ; whose various connecting lines cover the South with their ramifications. The freight business is excep- tionally heavy at all times. The Louisville, New-Albany tSc Chicago Company underwent a radical change in the executive management in 18S9, and now it is energetically becoming one of the pre-eminent roads of this country, and has been practi- cally rebuilt. Within two years the line has been ballasted chicauu mjnun block CHICAGO : HOST-OFFICE AND CUSTOM HOUSE. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. CHICAGO : THE BOARD OF TRADE. with rock and provided with 70-pound steel rails and new ties and new bridges. The executive offices are in the Monon Block, in Chicago. The Dr. Wm. L. Breyfogle, and the General Manager is Wm. F. Bla( The Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul Railway, with more than miles of track in Iowa, Wisconsin, the Dakotas, Minnesota, and souri, and 316 miles in Illinois, runs from Chicago west to the Mississippi and north into Wisconsin. It owns 757 locomo- tives and 24,000 cars. The Chicago, Rock-Island & Pacific Rail- way, chartered in 1847, as the Rock-Island & La-Salle Rail- 'road, was finished to Rock Island in 1854, and to Council Bluffs (500 miles) in 1869. It controls over 2,000 miles of track, one quarter of which is in Illinois, with 2,854 employees. The Chicago & Alton Railroad runs southwest from Chicago to Bloomington, Springfield, Alton and East St. Louis, 281 miles, with several branches, and reaches west to Kansas City. The Chicago, Santa-Fe & California Railway has 349 miles in Illinois, running from Chicago into Iowa and Missouri, and forming the eastern section of the Santa-Fe system, which reaches the Gulfs of Mexico and California and the Pacific Ocean. The St. -Louis & Indian- apolis line has 385 miles in Illinois, running northeast from East St. Louis to Alton, Mat- toon, and Paris and beyond, and forming part of the " Big Four Route." The Ohio & Missis- sippi line runs in 428 miles from East St. Louis to Vincennes. The great railroads from Chicago to the East have but little of their mileage in Illinois. The Pittsburgh, Fort-Wayne & Chicago has 15 miles (70 of track) out of its 468 miles here; the Lake-Shore & Michigan Southern, 14 out of 2, 192 ; the Baltimore & Ohio, six ; the Michigan Central, six; and other lines quickly pass into Indiana. Among the other im- portant north and south lines are the Chicago & Eastern-Illinois, 265 miles in Illinois ; Chicago & Ohio-River, 91 ; and Cairo, Vincennes & Chicago, 297. The Wabash Rail- road Company's main line runs from Toledo (Ohio) by Decatur and Springfield, to Bluffs, 111. (413 miles), with 171 miles in Illinois. There are also routes served by this company from Chicago to Altamont, 214 miles, and from Decatur to East St. Louis, no miles. The Mobile & Ohio, St. -Louis & Cairo, and Louisville (S. Nashville control important lines in southern Illinois. Besides its network of railways and navigable waters, Illinois has 75,000 miles of roads and turnpikes. The Illinois & Michigan Canal runs from Chicago 96 miles to La Salle, the head of navigation on the Illinois River. It cost $6,600,000. In 1S76-80 Chicago deepened this canal, at a cost of $3,250,000, so that the Chicago River now flows out of Lake Michigan and down to the Illinois, carrying in part the sewage of the great city. As first planned, in 1836, it was in- tended for a ship-canal, and the United States granted the right of way, but the financial embarrassment of the State checked the work, and reduced its scale. At some future time this scheme may be realized. CHICAGO RIVER. CHICAGO : MASONIC TEMPLE. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CHICAGO : ART INSTITUTE. The Finances of Illinois are on the securest of foundations, and th'e State has no bonded debt. The maximum rate of taxa- tion is fixed by law, at a low figure, on the assessed valuation of property. The free outlays for local improvements, railroads and public buildings reached such great proportions that the Constitution of 1870 placed restrictions on the municipalities. In iSSo the counties, cities and towns owed over $52,000,000, one fourth of which is payable between 1890 and 1900. Most of the bonded debts draw interest at seven per cent., but they are being refunded at from four to six per cent. Municipalities cannot incur debts to exceed five per cent, of the value of their taxable property ; and they must yearly pay part of their existing debts, with all accru- ing interest. Illinois has 183 National banks, with a combined capital of $30,000,000; 20 State banks ; 450 private banking-houses ; and three saving-banks. The First National Bank of Chicago, one of the greatest financial institutions in the country, was founded in 1863, with a capital of $100,000. The great fire of 18 7 1 partly destroyed its building, but the safes and vaults remained intact, and the bank passed safely through the ordeal. Its charter expired in 1882, and the surplus, or reserve, was then found to be $1,800,000. In the same year, the bank was newly organized, with a capital of $3,000,000. It has grown as steadily and remarkably as Chicago itself, and now has a surplus of $2,000,000, de- posits of $25,000,000, and gross assets of over $30,000,000. The mercantile and manufacturing interests of Chicago have been most liberally encouraged, and to this bank must be conceded a fair share of credit for the city's up-build- ing. Its vice-president, Lyman J. Gage, was at the head of the World's Fair Committee, and the officers and direc- tors include a group of Chicago's most famous men. The First National occupies capacious and magnificent quar- ters on the main floor of its own substantial bank struc- ture, at the corner of Monroe and Dearborn Streets. Dur- ing the crisis of 1873 this bank did not suspend, but met all calls with cash, and maintained unimpaired its previous high standing and credit. The Illinois Trust and Savings Bank, the leading financial institution of its class west of Ohio, occupies handsome offices in the Rookery Building, an architectural marvel among the office-buildings of Chicago. It has a capital stock of $1,000,000, with additional lia- bility of stockholders to the extent of $1,000,000, and a surplus of $1,000,000, making a total amount of over $3,000,000 pledged for the security of its depositors. The deposits and other assets make a total of nearly $20,000,000. There are four departments : The Savings Department, receiving deposits from $1 to $5,000; the Banking Department, receiving deposits subject to check, buying and selling foreign and domestic exchange, issuing letters of credit, and acting as a lawful depository of court and trust funds ; the Safety Deposit Depart- ment, with private safes and boxes kept in a great vault walled with chrome steel and iron, and thoroughly " watched and guarded ; and the Trust Department, < acting as administrator, executor, guardian, conserv- j' ator, assignee, and trustee of trust estates. John J. Mitchell is president. The stockholders are among the wealthiest and most prominent business men. sT NrtTIOvA- BANK. CHICAGO : THE ROOKERY : ILLINOIS TRUST AND SAVINGS BANK. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 223 The Manufactories of Illinois exceed 16,000, with $150,- 000,000 capital, 150,000 operatives (receiving wages of $60,000,- 000 a year), and a yearly product of $450,000,000. Manufactur- ing employs nearly one fifth of the people of Illinois, which stands first among the States in meat-packing, the lumber-trade, and the making of malt and distilled liquors. The State is dotted all over with flouring-mills, whose product exceeds in value that of any other local industry. Among other yearly products are clothing and furnishing goods, to the value of $25,000,000; leather, $6,000,000 ; boots and shoes, $4,000,000 ; railway bridges and cars, $13,000,000; furniture, $10,000,000; sashes, doors and planed lumber, $12,000,000; carriages and wagons, $4,000,000; publishing and printing, $6,000,000; oil, paints and white lead, $5,000,000; lard oil, oleomargarine and stearine, $7,000,000; window and green glass, soap, and many other articles. The Illinois Steel Company is the largest corporation of its kind in this or any other coun- try, and possesses practically a monopoly of steel-rail manufacturing in the West. It has an authorized capital of $25,000,000, and a very extensive and profitable business, covering a score of great States. This indu s t r y was founded in 1857 by E. B. _ Ward, of De- "-^^ - .- - .s^- troit, who sold -^ia. li.ui, ^ill. his plant to the Chicago Rolling-Mills Co., in 1864. Five years later the iNorth-Chicago Roll- ing Mills Co. bought the works; and in 1889 they consolidated with the Union Steel Co., under the style of the Illinois Steel Co. The new organization bought the plant of the Joliet Steel Co. The various mills owned by the cor- poration represent a value of above $12, 000, 000 ; and there is be- yond this a work- ing capital of $6,000,000. Re- cently, large ex- penditures were planned, reaching far into the millions, to enlarge the works at South Chicago and Joliet, and to add the necessary plant for manufacturing under the basic process. The Illinois Steel Company makes a vast proportion of the rails and other metal goods used on the Western railroads, and has been a valued ally in the advance of civilization into the wilderness. It employs 12,000 men, with a yearly salary-list of $7,000,000; and produces each year more than 3,500,000 tons of ^-m Bessemer ingots, pig-iron and spiegel, rails and other articles of iron and :^"~^ IH steel. The company owns 4,500 acres of coal- — ^™»- lands, and 1,150 coke-ovens, 67 miles of railway, 60 locomo- tives and 2,000 cars. The works include 17 blast furnaces, four Bessemer works, four rail-mills, and billet, rod and structural mills. The first steel rails made in America were rolled in 1865, JOLIET : ILLINOIS STEEL COMPANY'S WORKS. '^'^ '^'^ North-Chicago works. HICAGO : ILLINOIS STEEL COMPANY'S UNION WORKS, 224 A'/NG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. :- j'^ '^i.r 1.,^^ HICAGO ; JAMES S. KIRK & CO. On the site of the first house ever built in Chicago — at first Au Sable's and later John Kinzie's — stand the enormous and famous soap and glycerine works of James S. Kirk & Co., the largest house of its class on the American conti- nent. Kirk's soaps are among the comparatively small list of goods that are favorably known in almost all the households of the whole Union. In Chicago it is one of the most familiar of the great factories, for the immense five-story and basement substantial brick buildings stretch conspicuously along the river bank in the immediate vicinity of the wholesale business district. The lai^ge chimney, 282 feet high, that gives draft to the fires in boilers, supplying 1,600 horse-power, looms up to attract attention from all directions. In these buildings there are five acres of floor surface, wherein about 700 people are given constant employment. There are four main departments: (i) the laundry soaps, including the every-where-popular brands of "American Family" and "White Russian ;" (2) the toilet soaps, with a list of hundreds of varieties of exquisite soaps, chief among which are " Shandon Bells" and "Juvenile;" (3) the perfumery, with its specialty of "Shandon Bells Perfume," and many varieties of toilet waters, concentrated essences, and toilet preparations ; and (4) the glycerine, where the aim has been to obtain a chemically pure preparation, as well as all quali- ties for technical uses. Taken altogether, this house, established in 1839 ^y James S. Kirk, and now conducted by his seven sons, is one of the most notable of the industries of Illinois. Fort Dearborn was constructed in 1803. It consisted of two block-houses and a parade-ground, enclosed by a strong pali- sade. The block at the corner of Michigan Avenue and River Street now bears a marble tablet, thus inscribed : This building occupies the site of old Fort Dearborn, which extended a little across Michigan Avenue and somewhat into the river as it now is. The fort was built in 1803-4, forming our outmost defense. By order of Gen. Hull it was evacuated August 15, 1812, after its stores and provisions had been distributed among the In- dians. Very soon after the Indians attacked and massacred about fifty of the troops and a number of citizens, including women and children, and next day burned the fort. In 1816 it was rebuilt, but after the Black-Hawk war it went into gradual disuse, and in May, 1837, was abandoned by the army, but was occupied by various government officers till 1857, when it was torn down, excepting a single building, which stood upon the site till the great fireofOct. 9, 1871. The McCormick Harvesting Machine Com- ^i:iny is the outgrowth of the original invention of the reaping machine, by Cyrus H. McCor- mick, in 1831. This machine is now universally admitted to be one of the wonders of the age, and has made it possible for the United States to become the greatest agricultural country in the world. After manufacturing his machine in a small way in Virginia, Mr. McCormick moved to Cincinnati, in 1846, and in 1847 he estab- cHicAGo MCCORMICK HARVESTING MACHINE CO. li^hed his great business in Chicago. Since then CHICAGO: GERMAN OPERA HOUSE. THE STATE OE ILLINOIS. 225 the works have grown to mammoth proportions, and the McCormick Harvesting Machine Co. to-day leads the world in the manufacture of agricultural implements. From an output of 50 machines, in 1844, the business has grown to the enormous aggregate of 123,570 ma- chines in 1890. Besides reapers, mowers, binders and other kinds of harvesters, this concern furnished yearly 8,000 tons of Manila and Sisal twine to the farmers of the great North- west, with which to bind their grain. The works cover 37 acres of flooring, with good dock- age on the South Branch of the Chicago River. Upwards of 2,000 men are employed here, to say nothing of the vast army of agents engaged in the sale and distribution of their har- vesting machines throughout the world. In the harvesting-machine business the late Cyrus H. McCormick was the pioneer, and through his machine is now universally regarded as one of the notable lienefactnrs of the human race. The great business of the Crane Company of Chi- cago began in 1855, when Richard T. Crane, a young New-Jersey mechanic, opened a little brass foundry in a corner of the lumber-yard belonging to his uncle, Martin Ryerson. A brother, Charles S. Crane, soon joined Richard, and the business developed rapidly and secure!)', taking in steam-heating machinery in 1858, an iron-foundry in i860, and a ^\rought-iron pipe-mill in 1864. The Crane Bros. Mfg. Company changed its name in 1890 to the Crane Company; and now, with a capital of .$2, 500,000, itives, and owns and oc- biick buildings especially business. This pioneer -.team and gas fittings in patented articles of unus- Elevator Company, making employs 1,850 oper- cupies several large constructed for its house manufactures the largest line of America, and controls the use of many ual ingenuity and value. The Crane passenger and freight elevators, is an offshoot of this corporation. The Link-Belt Machinery Company is typical of American ingenuity for practical uses. It is an outgrowth of the great business in transportation and trans-shipment which has been a part of the development of our Northwestern empire. It was incorporated in 1880, since which the capital stock has been advanced from $20,000 to $350,000. The works cover six acres, at Chicago, and here great varieties of machinery and contrivances are de- signed and constructed for the handling of any material in bulk or package, and for the trans- mission of power. This company is closely allied to the Link-Belt Engineering Company of Philadelphia, which supplies New York and the East with machinery of a similar char- acter. The Ewart link-belting, of links of re- fined malleable iron, is made in 31 regular sizes, and largely used instead of leather-belt- ing (being less wasteful of power), in flour- mills and grain-elevators, breweries and malt- houses, tanneries and sugar-refineries. The company also makes elevators, conveyors, gear- ing, and countless other ingenious devices. The Adams & Westlake Company is an ab- sorption of the old firm of Dane, Westlake & Covert, and the manufacturing interests of Crerar, Adams & Co., who were at Chicago the pioneer merchants in railway supplies in the West. John Crerar, the senior member of the firm, died in 1889, full of honors and of CHICAGO : LINK-BELT MACHINERY 226 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. fes-^^:^^"!'' !p5 Stir-"- ^:^ . ^m^^SSMM wealth, leaving a fortune of $5,000,000 to relatives and charities, and half of it to found a library. There were many articles, such as lamps, lanterns, and car-hardware and trimmings, which railroads needed, but which could not well be carried in stock, so they established a manufacturing depart- ment to meet these wants. J. McGregor Adams has been the president since the company's incor- poration, in 1S74, and the concern is the largest manufactory of railroad and street-car lamps and hardware in America, employing a thousand men, and occupying an entire block with its works. iiffffff'i "'■ '^^-^'^ -^-. - CHICAGO : ADAMS & WESTLAKE COMPANY. Among the products of the Adams & Westlake Co. are also a large variety of oil and vapor stoves, numerous specialties in the hardware line, and brass bedsteads. One of the few great wholesale hardware houses in the world was founded at Chicago in 1855 > ^'^"i nine years ago received incorporation as Ilibbard, Spencer, Bartlett & Co. It has trebled its size during the last fifteen years, and is still advancing. It employs 350 men, and a capital of more than a million dollars. Besides its warehouses, it occupies six contig- uous and connected five-story buildings, making one huge establishment. The basement is filled with heavy articles, like nails and chains, aiid sheet and galvanized iron ; the ground floor, with offices, and samples of all the lines of goods ; the second floor, with mechanics' tools, builders' and shelf hardware, bicycles and sporting goods, guns and ammunition ; the third floor, with tin and wire goods, cast hollow-ware, and lanterns ; the fourth floor, with spades and shovels, and packing for shipment ; and the fifth floor, with farm- ing and gardening implements. The demand for these articles is unlimited, especially in the newer States ; and commercial travellers represent the house in the re- Chicago : hibbard, spencer, bartlett & co. motest regions, replenishing the depleted stocks of the retailers with the endless varieties and many grades of metal goods of American and foreign make. The present tendency of the commercial and industrial world to concentrate and econo- mize is remarkably exemplified in the growth of the American Wheel Company, whose headquarters are at Chicago. This company was incorporated late in 1889, and immediately acquired, by purchase, six of the leading wheel-making plants in America. The companies thus purchased were the Woodburn " Sarven- Wheel " Co., of Indianapolis (Ind.); N. G. Olds & Son, of Fort Wayne (Ind.); the Keyes Mfg. Co., of Terre Haute (Ind.); the San- dusky Wheel Co., of Sandusky (Ohio) ; Iloopes Bro. & Darlington Co., of West Chester (Pa.); and the Wapakoneta Spoke & Wheel Co., of Wapakoneta (Ohio). This confedera- tion has gradually been increased until the American Wheel Company now owns and operates directly or indirectly upwards of 30 plants, scattered over a large portion of the Union. The American Wheel Company is not a Trust, but a plain corporation, organized under the laws of Illinois, with a capital of $3,000,000, which is being used in the manufacture of vehicle wheels. Immediately upon acquiring the plants, this company set about system- atizing the work in each factory, until at the present time but two or three sizes are manu- factured, where the variety before was almost unlimited. By this action the cost of pro- duction has been materially decreased, and in addition, the company has cut off all selling expenses, and by being large purchasers of material arc able to place their product upon the market at a much less cost than could have possibly lieen reached by any of the individual concerns which this corporation purchased. The company is in a prosperous condition, with a largely increased business. THE ST A TE OE ILLINOIS. 227 CHICAGO MARSHALL FIELD & CO (WHOLESALE ) HICAGO . MARSHALL FIELD i CO. (RETAIL. J Away back in the fifues, Pot- tei Palmer founded adiy goods busi nes.s niChicago; ant] in 1S65 Marshall PilUI, Levi Z. Leiter and Milton J. Palmer succeeded to it, under the name of Field, Leiter & Co., which in 188 1 became Marshall Field & Co. This is the largest house in its line in America, employing 3,500 persons, and having l)ranch offices at New York, Manchester, Paris and Chemnitz. The business reaches $37,000,000 a year, about one fifth of which is at retail. They distribute goods throughout the entire United States, purchasing immense quantities for cash, and thus being able to supply the trade and others at the lowest possible prices. At all seasons they carry very large stocks, not only of imported and American dry-goods, but also of furnishings and carpets, upholster- ing goods, furs, and many other lines. The retail building is hardly surpassed in spacious- ness and beauty ; while the wholesale building, designed by IL H. Richardson, and built by Norcross Brothers, forms the most magnificent commercial edifice on the continent. These two structures are in different parts of Chicago, and cover great areas of ground. In the matter of clothing the citizens of the Northwest, whether men or youths, boys or children, the firm of Henry W. King & Co., of Chicago, is the largest single manufacturer. This firm was founded in 1854, as Barrett, King & Co. Mr. Barrett retired in "i 864, when the firm changed to King, Kel- logg & Co. ; and in 1868 the firm dissolved, and Mr. King associated with himself, Wm. C. Browning and Edward W. Dewey, of New York, under the firm-names of Henry W. King & Co., Chicago, as whole- salers, and Browning, King & Co., New York, as manufacturers. Besides their jobbing business at Chicago, which is an extensive one, they have retail stores in New York, Brook- lyn, Philadelphia, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Kansas City, Omaha, Minneapolis, St. Paul, Mil- waukee and Chicago. Fully 4,000 persons are in the employ of these concerns, and the pay-roll of the New- York factory is $1,000,000 a year, and the general output of clothing, between four and five million dollars annually, reaching all parts of America. The ladies of all the great interior and Western States are largely supplied with their millinery, furnish- ings and fancy goods from stocks supplied by D. B. Fisk & Co., of Chicago, probably the largest and most ably managed house of the kind in the world. Their emporium covers six large and well-lighted floors, each nearly half an acre in area, with artistic displays of costly ribbons and feathers, beautiful flowers, fine straw goods and other attractive articles, from their own fac- tory, as well as from the most famous manufactories in Europe and elsewhere. The house was founded in 1853, by D. B. Fisk, who has seen it grow into an im- mense establishment, with 500 employes, and a whole- HENRY W. KING & CO. CHICAGO . D B FISK i. CO. 228 AVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. sale trade reaching over more than half a continent. One of the chief needs of a millinery house is intimate connection with the European centres of fashion ; and the arrangements here are so perfect, that this firm offers the choicest French and Continental novelties to its patrons simultaneously with their appearance in the fashion centres of Europe. Few houses in Chicago, or the whole west, are more honorably known than E. W. Blatchford & Co., whose trade-mark motto — " reputation, a tower of strength " — has been truly borne out in an uninterrupted career of almost 40 years. The business was "" established in 1854, and incorporated in 1890. It includes the manufacturing of lead and kindred and alloyed metals, and their various products, — sheet, bar, pig and glaziers' lead, lead pipe, sash weights, solder, electrotype, stereotype andliabbitt metals, etc.; and also the dealing in CHICAGO : MANUAL TRAINING SCHOOL. n t i m o n i al tinnal reputa- E. W. BLATCHFORD & CO. pig tin, and ingot, sheet and bar copper, antimony of all grades, spelter and lead. Closely allied are two establishments, which themselves have a na- tion — the Chicago Shot Tower Works, with capacity for - -_ 50,000 pounds a day of their famous brands of "stand ard" shot made into 30 sizes, and the Blatchford Cartridge Works, making a full line of cartridges. The group of factories are on the west side, and are ^-!r(ii substantial brick structures, covering the greater iifEfl__ part of a block. The shot tower, 200 feet high, has "Mf^^^jll been a familiar landmark for a quarter of a century, ^ja.^ j" - J' f M While being recognized as eminently successful busi ness men and notable manufacturers, the Blatch fords have been prominently identified with charitable, religious and educational institutions. The immense development of the shoe- manufacturing business in the West has been materially facilitated by the erection of com- pletely eqviipped tanneries in various localities. The foremost of these belongs to the Walker Oakley Company, whose enormous Chicago tanneries employ 400 men, and produce yearly 400,000 wax calf-skins, 150,000 kips and 50,- 000 satin calf, which are disposed of at the company's offices at Chicago, Boston and San Francisco. This industry was founded in the sixties, by Joseph H. Walker, of Worcester (Mass.), and others, and received incorporation in 1890, under the Illinois laws, having a very large paid-in capital and strong security. The trade extends all over the country of the Great Lakes and the Mississippi Valley, and is growing with the growth of the population of the Northwest. The Walker Oakley Com- pany enjoys peculiar advantages for a liberal disposition of its resources on account of its nearness to the sources of supply as regards the material for fine grades of leather. Among the oldest and most prominent houses of Chicago is that of M. D. Wells & Co., manufacturers of and whole- sale dealers in boots and shoes, whose origin dates from the year i860, since which they have advanced with steady step, widening the area of their trade. At present, they are rated HICAGO : WALKER OAKLEY COMPANY. CHICAGO ; M. 0. WELLS & Ca THE STATE OE ILLINOIS. 229 5 ,5 51 '^ liiiiiiiliiii i as worth upwards of ,f 2,000,000, and are adding largely to their capital each year. Chicago is the greatest distribut- ing point for boots and shoes for the whole West and South, and hence there have grown up several enormous houses in this line, but the foremost of all is M. D. Wells & Co. They have their own factories, and use the whole output of other factories ; and enjoy the closest relations with many of the manufacturers of New England and elsewhere. They em- ploy 600 persons in their factory, with an output of 3,000 cHii^nu^ . >.r,,^^„^ -■-. ^ lo. pairs of boots and shoes daily ; and the store and salesrooms occupy seven floors, and employ 75 travelling salesmen. Here, also, at Chicago, is the great supply-point for the thousands of grocery-stores and country-dealers in the interior of the continent ; and it is claimed that the wholesale grocery- house of Sprague, Warner & Co. has the largest business of any house in its line in America. This concern was founded by A. A. Sprague and E. J. Warner, in 1862, when it began with a very small stock and a borrowed capital. O. S. A. Sprague entered as a part- ner in 18(13. Increasing year by year, parallel with the growth of its tributary States, the company has attained a gigantic development, and sends its men and goods throughout all the interior. Western and Far- Western regions, with a trade extending from Texas to Manitoba. All the members of the firm are Vermonters, and combine New-England prudence and industry with Western enterprise. With all the jobbing houses of Chicago, they were burned out and sustained heavy loss in the great. fire of 1871, but opened business the next day on the West Side. A single truck-load of merchandise, saved from the conflagration, comprised their entire stock for the first week, but unimpared credit and fast freight enabled them in a short time to supply the demands of their customers. The A. Booth Packing Company are the largest pack- ers of hermetically sealed canned goods in the world, that is, they produce the largest number of cans actually packed. This enormous oyster, fish and canned goods business was founded in 1850 by Alfred Booth, who is still at the head of the corporation, which now operates with a paid-up capital of $1,000,000, and a surplus nearly as large. The chief offices, at Chicago, and the 21 branches, employ 5.000 people. The principal fishing stations are at Duluth (Minn.), Bayfield and Ashland (Wis.), Ontonagon, Manistique, St. Ignace, St. James, and Escanaba (Mich.), Port Arthur (Ont.), and Winnipeg (Man. ). The main distributing houses are at Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, St. Louis, Omaha, Lincoln, Kansas City, and Denver. At Baltimore their factory has a capacity for packing 75,000 cans daily. Here their ample fleets obtain large supplies of oysters from Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, and the choicest fruits and vegetables from the surround- ing country. At Astoria, on the Columbia River, their salmon packing establishment is the largest in the industry. At Mo- bile their immense plant is equipped to pack the great yield of oysters and shrimps. The canned goods bearing the A. Booth Packing Company's brands — "Oval," "Black Diamond," and "Old Honesty" on Cove oysters, shrimp, fruits, vegetables and fish, are sold by grocers throughout the world ; the prominence of these brands resulting from extreme caution and careful selection of thoroughly trustworthy goods. This company are CHICAGO : CENTRAL MUSIC HALL. CHICAGO : A. BOOTH PACKING CO. 23° R'ING'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STA TES. the largest patrons of the express companies in America. Their operations extend from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from Lake Winnipeg to the Gulf of Mexico, requiring the constant use of several lines of steamships, running in connection with their fishing boats. The preeminent distillery of the United States is Henry H. Shufeldt & Co.'s, at Chicago. It has a fame throughout the world for various reasons. Ever since 1849, when the distillery was established, its goods have been recognized as unsurpassed. Its rectifying ho\ise was established in 1857. In 1878, at Paris, in competition with the choicest productions of all nations, this house was awarded the gold medal "for purity and excellence of pro- ducts of distillation over all competitors." In 1 891 it was discovered that a plot had been put into execution to blow up and destroy Shufeldt & Co.'s distillery, the impression being that it was due to the fact that this was almost the only formidable house refusing to enter into the so-called "whisky trust." The plant covers over four acres. The warehouses can store 25,000 barrels. The capacity is 9,000,000 gallons a year, requiring more than 2,100,000 bushels of corn. Five million dollars a year are paid to the Government for duties on distilled spirits. Its well-known brands of "Imperial Gin" and "Rye Malt Gin" are distilled by the im- proved Holland process. A special product is "Grano-Gluten Feed," for feeding cattle. The American Biscuit & Manufacturing Company, with general offices at Chicago, is the largest corporation in the world producing biscuits, crackers, bread, confectionery and maca- roni. The company was incorporated in i S90, with a capital of $10,000,000. On its pay-rolls appear the names of 3,000 people, who are engaged in manufacturing and selling its products. It is the largest consumer of flour and sugar in the world, using 10,000 barrels of flour and 5,000 barrels of sugar a week. It owns and operates 35 plants, including the principal baking establishments in the United States, the largest being in New York, Chicago, St. Louis and Kansas City. Its factory in New York has the greatest capacity of any biscuit works in the United States. At these plants are turned out many well-known specialties, which enjoy a national reputation with consumers of bis- cuits and confectionery. The company is the owner of the celebrated Dake, Bremner, Dozier, Langles, and other familiar brands of crackers. Since the incorporation many im- provements and economies have been introduced into the methods of manufacturing and disposing of its out-put, thereby enabling it to produce crackers and confectionery of a superior quality, and at a lower cost than others. The officers have had long experience in their line, and the plants are managed by practical men who have grown up in the business. The Albert Dickinson Company of Chicago is the foremost grass and field seed-house of the United States. It was established in 1854, by Albert F. Dickinson, the father of the president of the present corporation. At that time the busi- ness was chiefly on commission ; but for many years they have been exclusively dealers in the products handled, buying at and selling to the principal American and European centres. Albert Dickin- son succeeded to the business in 1S72, since which time it has grown rapidly, especially during the DICKINSON COMPANY. past tcu ycars. In 1887 the present company was :Wj. CHICAGO : AME! IT A MFG. CO. THE STATE OF ILL/NO/S. 231 CHICAGO : ANDERSON PRESSED-BRICK CO. incorporated, with a capital of $200,000 (since increased to $250,000), and now their opera- tions as dealers extend over the whole American continent, and their exports and imports to and from Europe are very large. Among the varieties of agricultural seeds handled, their specialties are clovers and timothy, besides the other staples. Flax-seed is also dealt in largely, being shipped in cargoes to distributing points, and in carloads to local crushers. As importers of bird-seeds they stand unrivalled, and in pop-corn their output is probably the largest in this country. The main offices are on Kinzie Street, where the firm occupies sev- eral large buildings; but the principal warehouse is a large brick structure, at the corner of i6th and Clark Streets, owned and occupied solely by the Albert Dickinson Company, and used only in re-cleaning and re-handling the various articles connected with the business. The genius of the brick-making art is J. C. Anderson, of Chicago, who has taken out several scores of patents pertaining thereto. Under his inspiration the material which had only been used for the jilainest buildings has become full of artistic beauties and capabilities, richly varying in shapes and sizes, surfaces and colors ; and the brick industry, which a few years ago was among the commonest of manufactures, can now claim a position among the fine arts. The Chicago Anderson Pressed-Brick Company, under Mr. Anderson's presi- dency, has a plant covering nine acres, on the North Branch of the Chicago River, and em- ploys 200 men, working under the Anderson patents, in conjunction with the New- England and New-York Anderson Pressed-Brick Com- panies. These three corporations control the manufacture and sale of obsidian brick, remark- able for rich body colors in browns, grays and blues ; metallic-dressed brick, yielding bronze and metal-tinted colors ; mossed brick, cov- ered with a similitude of mosses; aluminum brick, silvery and bronze-like, indestructible by heat, weather or abrasion, and turning the hardest steel points ; brecciated enamel brick, richly colored and glazed, and adaptable for the finest interior decorative work ; plain enamel and rock-faced brick ; brick in fac-simile of granite and other stones, in color and grain ; and a variety of shapes and sizes of brick for decorative uses. The latest and greatest of the Anderson inventions is in use by the Chicago Anderson Common Brick Company, at their new half-million-dollar plant, covermg 80 acres, and hav- ing a capacity of 300,000 brick a day. Two tunnel-kilns 672 feet long run through the main building, and at their centres burn perpetual fires of crude oil, hot enough to melt steel. There are 48 standard-size cars of iron, protected by fire-proof coverings, and each bearing 12,000 brick, continually being pushed through the tunnels, by screw-power. The cars of green brick slowly pass a succession of intensely hot cars of burnt brick, moving away from the central fires, and from their escaping heat the green brick are baked to a cherry red, even before they reach the fires, where they receive a final shrinking heat. Then they move out again, yielding their heat to in-coming cars of green brick. They are loaded from the press on to the iron-kiln cars, and from these on to the cars for the market, thus saving a great amount of handling and labor, while the economy of fuel and heat is an element of high value. James C. Anderson, the inventor of this marvelous process, is president of the company, which is capitalized at $600,000. The works are on the Stickney tract, near the elaborate system of the Chicago Union Transfer Railway Company. Power is fur- nished by a battery of six large boilers, run- ning several engines ; and the entire plant is lighted by electricity, and thoroughly equipped for efficient service, for the enor- mous work devolved upon it. CHICAGO : ANDERSON COMMON BRICK CO. 232 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LEh COMPANY One of tlie greatest needs of the treeless prairie regions of the West is lumber for building pur- poses. The largest manufacturers and distributors of lumber and building material is the Chicago Lumber Co., with its numerous yards throughout the States of Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska and Colorado. This company was established in the year 1866, and now employs a paid-up capital of $5,000,000; and their yearly sales amount to |! 18,000,000. They manufacture and handle lumber from all sections of the country, red- wood from California, white pine from Michigan and Wisconsin, yellow pine from the Southern States, and yellow poplar from Virginia, Tennessee and Kentucky. The stock includes huge piles of boards and joists, laths and shingles, in all varieties, and doors and blinds, battens and pickets, and other building materials, in pine, maple, poplar, cypress, redwood and other woods. The active head of the Chicago Lumber Co. is M. T. Greene, president and general manager; and S. R. Frazier, Jr., is secretary. The general offices of the company are at Chicago. Railroads traverse the Chicago yards in every direction. The leading American house in the manufacture and introduction and sale of athletic goods of every description is that of A. G. Spalding & Bros., of Chicago, which was organized in 1876 by A. G. Spalding and J. W. Spalding. The house was incorporated under the laws of Illinois, in 1885, and now maintains large establishments in New York and Philadel- pTiia, as well as in Chicago. Their manufactories are located in Chicago and Philadelphia, and their capital of over half a million dollars is fully employed in the manufacture and sale of base-ball goods, lawn tennis, outdoor games, bicycles, gymnasium apparatus, athletic uniforms, and in fact athletic goods of every description. Everyone interested in base- ball, the national game of America, is fully aware of the preeminent position A. G. Spalding occupies, as president of the Chicago Base-Ball Club, and as one of the leaders in the base-ball legislation of the country. The increased interest in athletic sports is having a marked influence in the development everywhere of sound minds and sound bodies, and the house of A. G. Spalding & Bros, is now, and has been for 15 years, the leader in promoting the popular interest in all manner of vigorous outdoor recreations and exercises, asd hence is a benefit to the American people. In 1872, the year after the great Chicago fire, two young employes of crockery houses, E. H. Pitkin and J. W. Brooks, Jr., established a new crockery concern, occupying a little frame building on Michigan Avenue. From this small germ has grown the firm of Pitkin & Brooks, one of the greatest American houses in the crockery and queensware, glassware and china trade, founded safely on the well-won confidence of the dealers throughout the West and South and the residents of Chicago and transient visitors. Immense importations of the finest foreign wares and consignments of American goods of similar character are received at its many-storied Chicago store and warehouses, which have very spacious and attractive show-rooms and retail sales- rooms, the best in their line in America. From these inexhaus- tible resources, the country from Canada to Mexico, and from the Pacific Ocean to Chesapeake Bay, is largely supplied with all grades of crockery and glassware, from the heavy, cheap and serviceable articles used by the industrial and rural families to the exquisite and delicate decorated china, Haviland and Royal Worcester, and the diamond-like cut glass which adorn the tables of the wealthy, — Pitkin & Brooks' special importations. CHICAGO ; Q. SPALDING &. BROS. i^^jJ \ '^^^% . f "^ Mir.silr«,\iS iTTT . :" ?f7f(l'fHif _ L 39,503 1.834,123 144,1 1,010,361 967,940 2,192,404 36,350 13 2.344 92 2,093 5,971 Indiana's first European visitor was La Salle, who, in 1669-70, coasted along the Ohio River with his brave French explorers and opened a trade with the natives. Afterwards he crossed the portage (near South Bend) from the St. Joseph to the Kankakee. This brilliant chieftain concen- trated all the Indians of the Ohio Valley around his fort on the Illinois River, for mutual defense against the terrible Iroquois, and in so doing he depopulated Indiana. After the French founded Detroit the local tribes wandered back into Indiana and settled there. Post Ouiatenon, founded near the site of Lafayette in 1720, was the first military establishment here, followed, seven years later, by the Poste du Ouabache, which the Sieur de Vincennes, established, on the site of the present Vincennes. Indiana lay partly in Canada and partly in Louisiana, the region north of Terre Haute being governed from Detroit, while the remainder received its rule from New Orleans. The best French officers and Indian warriors of Indiana were slain in an attack on the Chickasaws, in 1736, and after that Lieut. St. Ange commanded at Vincennes for nearly thirty years, with prudence and wisdom. After the cession of the western country to Great Britain, British officers came to the Wabash villages and set up the rule of London. The residents, descendants of the Canadian wood-rangers {coiir- eurs de bois') and French soldiery, dwelt in the peace of contented peasantry, raising plenty of good wheat, tobacco and wine, with the help of Indian and African slaves. For two thirds of a century the French made one of their fav- orite routes from Lake Erie to the Mississippi River across Indiana, ascending the Maumee River, with a long portage near Lafayette, and then de- scending the Wabash and Ohio. Their chief villages and trading-posts were at the head of the Maumee, Wea Prairie (Lafayette) and Vincennes. In 1778, George Rogers Clark Vincennes. . . 1702 Frenchmen. . . 1816 1, 3150,428 1,680,637 1,978,301 Settled at ... . Settled in ... . Founded by . . . .\dinitted as a State, . Population in i86o. In 1870, In 1880, White, .... Colored American-ljorii, Foreigjn-born, . Males, Females, .... In 1890 (U. S. Census) Population to the square mile, 55.1 Voting Population (18S0), 498,437 Vote for Harrison (1888I, 263,361 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 260,969 Net State Debt (1890), §3,661,723 Assessed Valuation of Property (1890), . . $783,000,000 Area (square miles), U. S. Representatives (i Militia (disciplined), . Counties, Post-offices, .... Railroads (miles), . . Manufactures (yearly), $148,000,000 Farm Land (in acres), . 21,000,000 Farm-Land Values, $635,000,000 Public Schools, 10,000 Average School Attendance, 409,000 Newspapers, 698 Latitude, . . . 37''47' to 4i"46' N. Longitude, . . 84°49' to 88"2' W Temperature, . . . — 25° to loi'' Mean Temper't'e (Indianapolis) 52.3° TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIK POP- ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). Indianapolis 105,436 Evansville, 50,756 I'^ori Wayne 35,393 Terre Haute, 30,217 South Hend 21,819 New Albany 21,059 Richmond, 16,608 Lafayette 16,243 Logansport 13.328 Elkhart, 11,360 234 A'LVG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. VYANDOTTE CAVE. FARM SCENE. and his Virginians, advancing from Kentucky, captured Vin- cennes and other British posts north of the Ohio. Thereupon Gov. Hamilton led down a British force from Detroit and recap- tured Vincennes, but Col. Clark advanced rapidly against him, and after a close siege compelled the Royal forces to surrender the fort, with thirteen cannon and $500,000 worth of military stores. After the Virginians had conquered the country, the greater part of Indiana rested under a court of justice at Vincennes, which freely granted territory to all applicants. At this time the non- Indian inhabitants were all French or half-breeds, and numbered fewer than 1,600 persons. Another singular element came into Indiana in 1781, when a force of Spaniards under Capt. Eugenio Pourre marched across it from St. Louis and captured Fort St. Josephs. After Virginia ceded her vast inland empire to the United States in 1784, the Vincennes administration became part of the Territory Northwest of the Ohio River ; and in iSoo Indiana became a Territory, including also Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin and part of Minnesota. In 1804-5 the jurisdiction of Indiana covered all the country from Ohio to the Ore- gon Country. According to the report of Jefferson's congressional committee, in 1804, parts of Indiana were to have been allotted to the proposed States of Polypo- tamia,» Pelisipia, lUinoisa, Saratoga, Assenisipia and Mctropotamia. I^ouis XV. 's decree established slavery in the Missis- sippi and Ohio Valleys, but the American Ordinance of 1787 set the Northwest Territory apart for freedom. A strong party in southern Indiana favored the perpetuation of slavery there, and kept it in actual operation until after 1840. In 181 1 the eloquence of Tecumseh aroused the Shawnees to hostility against the American Government. In November, 181 1, Gov. Harrison advanced to the Prophet's Town (seven miles north of Lafayette) with 900 men, and was attacked in camp by 1,000 Indians before sunrise. He lost 188 men, but finally repulsed the enemy by a series of desperate charges, and inflicted heavy losses on them, burning their town and laying waste the country. The Shawnees sued for peace. During the war of 1812 Indiana suffered severely, and Fort Wayne and other strongholds were assaulted or besieged by the enemy. Costly and premature internal im- provements after 1830 reduced the State almost to bankruptcy, especially after the financial constriction of 1837. For ten years Indiana could not even pay the in- terest on her bonds; but, in 1847, she re- sumed this obligation, and the free bank- ing law, the extension of railroads, and the inpouring of emigrants ensured a new The Name Indiana was first applied granted by the Indians in 1768 to a num- the aborigines. The pet name is The Hushers, the huge white or Indian bullies endless sleep ; or from a frequent local colfax monument. W^~ INDIANAPOLIS : SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT. and permanent prosperity, to a tract of 3,500,000 acres ber of traders. It refers to HoosiER State; from who could hush one to an phrase, "Who's yer?" EVANSVILLE : -S. COURT-HOUSE AND POST-OFFICE. Paris C. Dunning (acting), l^ THE STATE OF INDIANA 235 The Arms of Indiana show an undulating prairie and woodland, with a buffalo in the foreground, startled by the axe of a pioneer, who is felling a great tree. In the background the sun is rising. The Governors of Indiana have been : Te7-ritorial, Wm. Henry Harrison, 1800-II; John Gibson (acting), 1811-13; Thos. Posey, 1813-16. ^Az^i?, Jonathan Jennings, 1816-22; Wm. Hendricks, 1822-25; James Brown Ray, 1825-31 ; Noah Noble, 1831-37 ; David Wallace, 1837-40 ; Samuel Bigger, 1840-43; James Whitcomb, 1843-48; 5-49; Jos. A. Wright, 1849-57; Ashbel P. Willard, 1857- 60; Abram A. Hammond (acting), 1860-61 ; Henry S. Lane, 1861 ; Oliver P. Morton, 1861-67; Conrad Baker, 1667-73; Thos. A. Hendricks, 1S73-77; Jas. D. Williams, 1877-80; Isaac P. Gray (acting), 1880-81 ; A. G. Porter, 1881-85; Isaac P. Gray, 1S85- Alvin P. Hovey, 1889-91 ; and Ira J. Chase (acting), 1891-3. Descriptive. — Indiana is the smallest of the Western States and forms /^ nearly rectangle, with Kentucky on the south, beyond the Ohio River, Illinois ^ ^5? on the west, Michigan and Lake Michigan on the north, and Ohio on the k^Lni-J^-y^ir^ cast. It is a vast undulating plain, inclining toward the southwest, where, at the mouth of the Wabash, it reaches its lowest point, 370 ^ feet above the sea. The greater part was formerly covered with forests of oak, maple, beech and walnut, and the region north of the Wabash comprises many treeless prairies, brightened by small lakes. The sloughs and lagoons of the north enabled Indiana to claim 1,200,000 acres under the Swamp-Act land-grant, and afilicted the early settlers with almost perpetual chills and fever. In later days the greater part of this area has been drained and improved. There are 21,000,000 rods of drain-tile in operation. North of Indianapolis the country is a rich loam, resting on a strong clay sub-soil. Along FORT WAYNE ; P. O. AND COURT-HOUSE. Lake Mich- here is In- proved by the lakes, -m; "fiipSa igan there are fifty miles of shore-line, with belts of high sand-hills, and diana's only lake port, at Michigan City. This harbor has been im- the Government at a cost of ^900,000, and admits the largest vessels on The prairies are diversified by low ridges and mounds and oak-groves, ndthe sluggish streams often flow through deeply-wooded lens. The uplands are rich and productive, except in the southeast, and the river-bottoms cover great areas of the best soil. The tendency of late years has been to subdivide the farms, mak- ing a great number of homesteads. Land is held at from $6 to $100 an EVANSVILLE I COURT-HOUSE, acre, depending on its Ohio Valley is a hilly with abrupt ridges, cut the great river and form- to 500 feet high. Half a century ago great for- ests covered these rugged highlands, and much of the country remains in its jirimeval condition. Indi- ana is the westernmost of the heavily-timbered States on this parallel of latitude, and more than a third of its surface is still in woodlands, where the hemlocks and maples of the North meet the cypresses and sweet gums, pecans and sycamores of the South. Many of location and improvement limestone region, by the tributaries of ing knobs from 400 The TERRE HAUTE : COURT-HOUSE. ^-^ffium i, " ' 1 1 1 1 ' J I |i A • 111 il' INDIANAPOLIS , COURT HOUSE. 236 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CITY HALL. these trees are of great size and beauty. The lumber product is above $16,000,000 yearly. TheWabash drains three fourths of Indiana, crossing it in a southwesterly course and forming the western boundary for 100 miles. It is 600 miles long and has been ascended 300 miles by steamboats, to Logans- port. There are six steamboats plying along the stream below Vincennes, and nine steamers run between Vincennes and Terre ^f^'^^--:- ;-f^^^^^ Haute (90 miles) and ports above. The rich Wabash Valley f-ifljilj .1 ivr.: '..4 ':3r^^4 covers 12,000 square miles. The West Fork (300) miles and East Fork (200 miles) form the White River, which in fifty miles ^ii=J4u- reaches the Wabash. Its valley of 9,000 square miles is flat and heavily timbered, with prairies and rugged hills in the west. The St. Joseph flows into Lake Michigan ; the Maumee into Lake Erie. In the northern counties many lakes and ponds spread out over the level lowlands, with pleasant scenic effects. The Climate is in the main healthy, although the north and northwest winds of winter are severe and cause sharp changes in the temperature. Spring opens early, and by April the fruit-trees are in blossom. The mean yearly temperature of Indianapolis varies from 50^° to 56^^. Agriculture employs a great majority of the people, and the rich alluvial soil, nearly a rd deep, and with almost no waste land, gladly luces abundant and profitable crops. There are 9,000,000 acres in ploughed land and meadow and 2,000,000 in pasture. The farm products of Indiana were valued in 1870 at !| 123,000,000, and in 1880 at $308,000,000. Nearly 7,000,- 000 acres are devoted to cereals, yield- ,-_ - >»^ INDIANAPOLIS : INDIANA REFORMATORY FOR WOMEN. INDIANAPOLIS : HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE. ing 200,000,000 bushels yearly, the . . average product to the acre being much greater than that of England or France. The Wabash Valley is the richest known region for corn and wheat. The corn crop yields in favoring years 130,- 000,000 bushels, valued at over $30,- 000,000, and taking up nearly 3,000,- 000 acres. The wheat crop exceeds 40,000,000 bushels yearly, worth above $30,000,000, and occupying nearly 3,000,000 acres. 46,000,000 bushels of oats are produced, worth $7,000,000; and there are large crops of barley, rye, clover seed, flaxseed, buckwheat, sorghum, potatoes and tobacco. The clover and timothy hay crop passes 1,000,000 tons yearly, and has reached 2,900,000 tons, valued at $35,000,000. There are 10,000,000 fruit-trees in Indiana, bearing yearly 36,000,000 bushels of apples and 4,000,000 bushels of peaches. The fruit-bear- ing countries are mainly in the northeast, but peaches are largely cultivated in the south. The orchards yield 4,000,000 gallons of cider, and the vineyards 7,000,000 pounds of grapes. In the early days of the Swiss immigrants large quantities of wine were produced. The live-stock of Indiana includes 600,000 horses and mules, 850,000 oxen, 500,000 milch cows, 2,200,000 hogs, and 1,400,000 sheep, valued at $70,000,000. The sheep once numbered BUSlNtSb MEN S ASSOCIATION THE STATE OE INDIANA. 237 over 2,000,000, and are mostly in the north- cast and the Wabash Valley. They yield 4,000,- 000 pounds of wool yearly. The midland and northern counties have most of the live-stock. In 18S8, 1,750,000 hogs, cattle and sheep were slaughtered for food. The dairy products include yearly 156,000,000 gallons of milk, 33,000,000 pounds of butter, and 600,000 pounds of cheese. Indiana also sends out yearly 800,000 chickens and poultry, 24,000,000 dozen of eggs and 200,- 000 pounds of feathers. She has 120,000 hives of bees, producing over 1,000,000 pounds of honey each year. Minerals. — There are 7,000 square miles of bituminous coals, cannel and block, coking and non-coking, and their use has been growing since 1 870. The block coal is of great value in smelting. It comes in cubical blocks, easy to mine and handle, free from sulphur and phosphorus, and burning down into a fragment of white ash. The seams are from one 'lO eleven feet thick and easily mined, the deepest shaft being 300 feet. A fine cannel coal CRAWFORDSVILLE : WABASH COLLEGE. is mined at Cannelton and elsewhere near the Ohio River, in to five feet thick. It burns freely, with a brilliant flame, an has a conchoidal fracture and a dull lustre. It is better than the English coal for smelting, and the best known for making steel, on account of its free- veins from three dom from phosphorus and sulphur. Natural gas is found in a TERRE HAUTE : ROSE POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. LAFAYETTE : PURDUE UNIVERSITY AND ART SCHOOL. wide belt of counties, and issues from 400 wells, tl:c capital invested being $6,000,000. Thousands of fam- ilies use this product for heating, cooking and lighting, and many large factories are run by it. The State con- tains large deposits of hematite iron ore, which is mixed with the Lake-Superior and Missouri specular ores. Bog iron occurs in valuable deposits. Among other minerals are sandstone and gypsum, slate and lithographic stone, the whetstone of Paoli, the marble of Vevay, the bluestone of Bluffton, white glass-sand and brick and porcelain clays. Great quantities of Portland cement are made in the south. The great Wyandotte Cave near Leavenworth has an unusual wealth of stalactites and stalagmites, with a hall 350 feet long and 240 feet high, extending for miles underground. Hamer's Mill Stream Cave, in Lawrence County, has been explored for nine miles, by canoes rowed up the out-flowing river. The French Lick and West Baden Springs, near Lost River, the Indian Springs and the Trinity Springs, all in southwestern Indiana, are saline sulphur waters ; and the waters of Lodi and Lafayette are of simi- lar character. The Greencastle and Knightstown waters are chalybeate. Chief Cities. — Indianapolis, the centre and capital city, was named in 1S21, in a vast level forest broken only by Indian trails, and laid out by one of the surveyors of Washington City, with magnificent avenues. It is a famous railway centre, with fifteen converging lines and a belt railroad, indianapolis : the propyl/eum. 238 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. UNIVERSITY OF NOTRE DAME. and has a large trade in grain and live stock, and many manufactures, employing 10,000 persons, and producing $30,000,000 worth of goods yearly. There are four grain elevators, eight flour and grist mills, 100 acres of stock-yards and four meat-packing houses. The churches number eighty, and many fine public build- ings adorn the city. Evansville has a large trade by steamboats along the Ohio River and on the seven railways centering there, with exports of coal, lumber, tobacco, grain and pork, and 400 factories, employing 11,000 people and !jj3i, 000,000 of capital. It is the chief trade-mart of the Green-River region of Kentucky. Fort Wayne, built in 1794, on the site of an ancient Miami village and an English fort of 1764, is the chief city of northeastern Indiana, abounding in factories and railroads. Terre Haute, on the Wabash, is a fast-growing city of manufactures and general trade, with six railways. Logansport is a pleasant manufacturing city, at the falls of the Wabash, in a rich farming country. Lafayette, on the Wabash and in a rich farrfling country, has large commercial and manufacturing interests. Laporte adjoins the rich Door Prairie. Corydon was the State capitol from 1813 to 1825. Richmond is in the rich cereal country east of Indianapolis. South Bend, on the St. Joseph River, is famous for its manu- factories of wagons and other useful articles. Vincennes, the oldest city in Indiana, and its capital from 1800 to 1S13, lifts many tall spires in the heart of the garden of the Wabash Valley. Jeffersonville and New Albany are on the Ohio, opposite Louisville, and many river steamboats are built on their shores. Madison, midway be- tween Cincinnati and Louisville, is beautifully located on the Ohio River. The Government consists of a governor and lieutenant-governor, elected for four years, and other executive officers ; the biennial general assembly of 50 four-years' senators and lOO two- years' representatives ; the Supreme Court of five justices, elected by the people ; and the circuit and superior courts. The State capitol at Indianapolis was begun in 1877 and cost $2,000,000. It is of Indiana oolitic limestone, with adornments of statuary, polished columns and rich interior work in oak. The dome is 234 feet high. Charities and Corrections are relatively less costly in Indiana than in many other States, because the commitments for crime are below the average. This is in part due to the more even distribution of property among the people, who show an unusual proportion of house-holders. The Northern Prison, at Michigan City, has 700 convicts ; the Southern Prison, at Jeffersonville, has 540. The House of Refuge for boys, on a large farm at Plain- field, has 470 inmates, governed by the family system. At Indianapolis are the great buildings of the Insane Asylum, Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Blind Asylum and Female Reformatory. The Insane Hospital at Logansport was opened in 1888, and has 360 inmates. The Eastern Insane Asylum is at Richmond. Another hospital for the insane is at Evansville. The School for the Feeble- Minded (340 inmates) is at Fort Wayne. The vSol- diers' and Sailors' Orphans' Home at Knightstown has 340 inmates. Education has advanced amazingly since 1870, BLooMiNGTON : INDIANA UNIVERSITY. and has awakened a high enthusiasm among its GREENCASTLE : DE PAUV^ UNIVERSITY. THE STATE OF INDIANA. 239 officers. The permanent school-funds amount to $10,000,000, and the value of school prop- erty exceeds !j) 15,000,000. Three fourths of the school population is enrolled as at its studies, illiterates falls below one in 1,100. The State Normal School at Terre Soo pupils, and there are other public normal schools at Indianapolis and "ovington. The private normal schools are at Valparaiso, Dan- ille, Ladoga, Mitchell, Richmond, College Hill and Angola. )ePauw University was founded at Greencastle, in 1837, under the name of Indiana Asbury University, in a rented two- room building, with four teachers. In 1884, largely through the liberality of the late Hon. W. C. DePauw, of New Albany, a noble endowment of over $450,000 was raised, and the university took the name of its benefactor. It is LAFAYETTE: NEW ELECTRICAL LABORATORY, supcrvlscd by the four Indiana conferences of the Metho- PURDUE UNIVERSITY. j-\ T- ■ 1 r'U U •~rx. 1 i dist Episcopal Church. The grounds cover 150 acres and there are ten buildings. DePauw has 40 instructors and 900 students, in a group of schools of arts, law, theology, didactics, music, military science and preparatory studies, each with an independent faculty, the chancellor and president being at the head of all and of each. There are 270 students in the college, 70 in theology and 24 in law. The school of military science and tactics has 180 uniformed cadets. Purdue University is the great land-grant college of Indiana, where 400 students are carefully taught in mechanics and engineering, and various industrial, agricultural and scien- tific branches. It was founded in 1874, at Lafayette, and stands high among scientific schools. Indiana University at Bloomington is supported entirely from the public funds, and 104 high schools are commissioned to prepare and examine students for admission and free tuition. The courses are elective, in 15 departments, with a law-school besides. The campus contains 20 acres of high and commanding ground near Bloomington, with maple and beech groves, amid which stand Wylie, Owen and Maxwell Halls, the ob- servatory and the handsome fire-proof Library building, of white limestone. There are no dormitories. When Indiana was admitted to the Union, in 1816, Congress set apart a township of land "for the use of a seminary of learning." The State Seminary received its charter in 1820, began work in 1824, became Indiana College in 1828, and expanded to a university in 1838. It now stands among the foremost schools of the West, with thirty instructors and 300 students (278 of whom are Indianians). The University of Notre Dame, the chief Catholic school in the West, was founded in 1842, by the Very Rev. E. Sorin, a mile and a half north of South Bend, and close to St. Joseph's and St. Mary's Lakes and St. Joseph River. The main building, with its noble dome crowned by a statue of the Vir- 'h gin Mary, surrounded by electric lights, contains many historical frescoes by Gregori, ^ the Lc- monnier Library of 30,000 volumes, and dormitories and society rooms. Music Hall, the great Science Building, Sorin Hall, the Gymnasium, the Infirmary and the Gothic church (with 33 bells, the famous "Chimes of Notre Dame") are all modern and handsome liuildings with pleasant surroundings. The minims (students under 13 years) occupy St. Edward's Hall, and are taught by Sis- ters of the Holy Cross. They form a company of cadets, while the older students compose the battalion of Hoyne Light Guards. The university has classical, scientific, civil-engineering and com- mercial courses, and a three-years' law course. It has 700 students, mostly from outside of Indiana, and including a number from abroad. A mile from Notre Dame, by a beautiful avenue of poplars '"°°*''tro°N''JMENT°'^''*' INDIANAPOLIS : YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION. 240 INDIANAPOLIS : UNION RAILWAY STATION, KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and maples, is the extensive St. Mary's Academy, with the new Church of Our Lady of Loretto. Wabash College was founded by the Presbyterian Church, at Crawfordsville, in 1832, and has 13 instructors and 400 stu- dents, a library of 28,500 volumes, and the commodious modern buildings of Centre Hall (chapel, library and lecture rooms). Peck Scientific Hall, and the Hovey Museum. South Hall was built in 1 834. Earlham College is a Friends' 3f3CI3^E school at Richmond, with 144 students. Among other Indiana colleges are Frank- lin (Baptist), Ridgeville (Free Baptist), Hanover (Presbyterian), Moore's Hill (Methodist), St. Meinrad's (Catholic), Hartsville Uni- versity (U. B.), Union Christian (at Merom) and Butler University (Christian), near In- dianapolis. Rose Polytechnic Institute, at Terre Haute, was founded by Chauncey Rose in 1874 (and opened in 1883) for the higher education of young men in engineering, and has a four- years' course, free to Vigo-County students. There are 16 professors and instructors and 141 students, with three buildings, on a pleasant campus of ten acres. Divinity schools are attached to DePauw University (M. E.), Union Christian College, at Merom (Christian), Concordia College, at Fort Wayne (Lutheran) and St. Meinrad's College (Catholic). There are law schools at Notre Dame and Greencastle. Indianapolis has two regular medical colleges and eclectic, physio-medical and dental schools. Lafayette has a college of pharmacy, and Fort Wayne has a college of medicine. In these professional schools 100 men instruct 430 students. Indiana Limestone. — At Bedford there are some 19 quarries, yielding an enormous quantity of exceedingly valuable building stone, popularly known as the Bedford limestone, also often spoken of as Indiana limestone. It is an oolitic limestone, similar to the Portland oolitic limestone, of which St. Paul's Cathedral in London is built, and which is said to be the best building material known. It is also similar to the Caen stone of F" ranee. It is said never to break or to crack, and to have an elasticity which makes it of especial value in all climates where there are changes of temperature. It contains about 98^ pure car- bonate of lime. There are two colors in this stone, a buff and a blue. A United- States Government test shows it to be 20;^ stronger than the English Portland oolitic. It is there- fore no wonder that this stone has been made of use in some of the most notable structures, such as the Auditorium, in Chicago ; the New-York Times building, the Emigrant Indus- trial Savings Bank, the Mutual Life Insurance Com- pany, and the Vanderbilt residence, in New- York City ; the Girard Life-insurance and Annuity Com- pany and the Singerly Building, in Philadelphia ; the Indiana State Capitol ; the New-Orleans Cotton I'^xchange ; the post-offices at Louisville and De- troit ; the Soldiers' Monument at Logansport ; the bridges at Cairo and St. Louis ; and the Algonquin Club, at Boston. The foremost quarries of this Bedford stone are those operated by the Hoosier BEDFORD : HOOSIER STONE QUARRY. Stouc Company, which owns 200 acres, whence, in 1^^ OS ER STONE CL THE STATE OF INDIANA. 241 INDIANAPOLIS : INDIANAPOLIS NEWS BUILDING eight years, they have been able to exhaust only about l^ acres, the estimated product being about 2,000,000 cubic feet to the acre. These quarries have been developed chiefly under the guidance of Wm. C. Winstandley. And the Bedford stone has been the main cause of building up the thriving little city of Bedford. The Newspapers of Indiana are about 650 in number. I'he Indianapolis N^civs, the leading paper of Indiana, holds a place that might be called unique. It was started as an independent journal upon definite lines, and during its whole career has clung tenaciously to its policy, which, tersely stated, is : "Tell the truth without fear or favor, and be honest with your patrons." Its editorial and busi- ness departments have been conducted on these principles, and the result is an admitted circulation, proportioned to population, larger In "z" W^-^ ^^"n than that of any American daily, and an influence that is phenom- p In rX- lU 1 '^"^^ "■^ ^'^ reach and power. It has followed a straight course with- out a thought whether it would pay or not ; it never has been a time-server or a trimmer, and even its bitterest opponents concede that The Ne^vs believes what it says. Its business methods have l)een such that its owners have nothing to regret or be ashamed of, and in its undeviating adherence to the one-price system it stands in a comparatively small class. It goes without saying that The News has had the enterprise and professional skill which are essen- tial in placing any business at the head, particularly in establishing a first-class journal in the face of the great competition of the day. Having deserved the public confidence, it has gained it, and keeps it. The Neivs was established in 1869 by John H. Holliday, who has con- trolled it ever since. It was the first two- cent paper started after the war west of the seaboai"d, excepting at Pittsburgh, and became the pioneer of the Western afternoon newspapers, which have almost revolutionized American journalism. The Nezvs is the largest and most costly daily in Indiana, its smallest issue being a quarto of 56 columns. It employs an array of talent not equalled by any other Indiana paper, and has all the modern facilities for the making of a great newspaper. National Institutions. — The United-States Arsenal, on a hill east of Indianapolis, has several substantial buildings on a pleasant reservation of 76 acres. It is a depository of war material, and dates from 1863. The Jeffersonville depot of the Quartermaster's Department is the general supply-depot of the United-States Army, and sends clothing and equipage to all the military posts. The buildings form a quadrangle 800 feet square, enclosing a lawn of 18 acres, and overlooked by a tall central tower. They were erected in 1871-4, in a lo- cality central for the Union, near large manufactories and railroads, and the seat of import- ant Government departments in 1861-5. ^ ' f'"'^'^' The Marion branch of the National Sol- — =^&~ diers' Home was built in 1889-90, at Marion, and has barracks for 1,000 veterans. Indianapolis has a magnificent soldiers' monument, 265 feet high, with several colos- sal bronze statues, trophies of arms, and other adornments. In the same city are statues of celebrated Indianians — Vice-Presidents Colfax and Hendricks, and War-Governor Morton — KNiGHTSTowN SOLDIERS AND SAILORS ORPHANS HOME, and otlicr interesting memorials. JEFFERSONVILLE : QUARTERMASTER'S DEPARTMENT. 242 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. INDIANAPOLIS ; INDIANA NATIONAL BANK Railroads came slowly to Indiana, which had but 45 miles as late as the year 1845. ^^'^ now the State is crossed in every direction by their lines, including nearly 7,000 miles of track, assessed at $65,000,000. At Indianapolis, Fort Wayne and various other points, the rail- ways converge like wheel-spokes, the great routes from the Mississippi Valley to the Atlan- tic coast intersecting the north and south lines. The Monon Route (the Louisville, New- Albany & Chicago Railroad) from Chicago to Kentucky and the South, traverses the entire length of the State. The Wabash & Erie Canal, from Toledo to Evansville, 476 miles, is the longest in the Union, part of it being held by slack-water navigation on the Maumee and Wabash. The section between Lafayette and Fort Wayne has fallen into disuse. The Whitewater Canal runs from Lawrenceburg on the Ohio to Ilagerstown. Finance. — The true value of property in Indiana is not far from #pDTiitEaiE5Sn™ : ;, f i goo, ooo, ooo, and the public debts of all kinds fall below .$20,000,000. The Bank of the State of Indiana for many years controlled the finan- cial policy of this region, and its Indianapolis branch (opened in 1857) was the oldest banking corporation in the capital city. After a successful career this institution, in 1865, became merged into the Indiana National Bank, with the same men as officers and the same lines of business, and the added advantage of a national-bank charter. The resources of the Indiana National Bank now reach nearly $4,000,000. The capital paid in is $300,000, and there are $425,000 in the surplus fund and undivided profits. Since Volney T. Malott's accession to the presidency, in 1882, the business has quadrupled, and the stock has risen to a high figure, while the bank has grown to be recognized not only as the largest National bank in the State, but also as one of the strongest and most conserva- tive, yet progressive and energetic institutions of Indiana. The Manufactures of Indiana have increased over 1,000 per cent, in invested capital and yearly products, since i860. They number above 8,000, with 70,000 operatives and a capital of $65,000,000. Much of this increase is due to the discovery of natural gas, and its use as fuel for factories, at Muncie, Kokomo and other fast-growing cities in the "gas belt," where a great variety of manufactures are flourishing. This wonderful product of the earth is piped to 75 cities and towns, and results in a saving of above $5,000,000 a year, besides being cleaner and more easily manageable than other fuel. It is also in gen- eral use for heating and lighting dwellings, and for other domestic purposes. If the sup- ply of natural gas is not exhausted, it will be of immense value to Indiana, and cause the development of large manufacturing interests. A.n idyll of industry appears in the story of the Studebaker Bros. Manufacturing Com- pany. The brothers composing the firm were originally two ; afterwards two more were added : and three years ago the number was re- duced by the death of the younger brother, leaving as the leading members of the company, Clem Studebaker, president, J. M. Studebaker, vice-president, and Peter E. Studebaker, treasurer. The business was started in South Bend, in 1852, on a total capital of $68, together with a thorough knowledge of blacksmithing, which the brothers had learned at their father's forge in Ohio. During the first year the output was two wagons ; now i, 500 workmen and numberless ingenious machines, which per- form the work faster and vastly better than SOUTH BEND : STUDEBAKER BROS. MANUFACTURING CO. THE STATE OF INDIANA. 243 V SOUTH BE D tiTUDEBAKER BROS MANUFACTURING CO it could be done by hand, are employed in the manufacture of all grades of vehicles, from the two-wheel road-cart up to President Harrison's state landau. The wagon-works and lumber- yards at South Bend cover 93 acres ; the car- riage-works, at South Bend, cover four acres ; and the repository and factory for fine carriage-work in Chicago has a front of 105 feet on Michigan Avenue, and a height of eight stories. The Chi- cago house is the most elegant building of its kind in the world; and all the other factories are substantially and handsomely built of brick, far exceeding in size and extent any other vehicle concern on the globe. Notwithstanding this fact, the increased demand for Studebaker vehicles, which roll in nearly every county of the United States, while thousands have also been sent to South Africa, Australia, Mexico, South Amer- ica, and other foreign countries, has made necessary additions to the South-Bend works which will approximately double the present productive capacity. The company was incorporated in 1868, with a capital stock of $75,000. The capital stock was increased in 1875 'o $1,000,000, which is at this time supplemented by a large surplus. The opening up of thousands upon thousands of additional acres to cultivation has called for the service of myriads of plows, and one of the foremost suppliers of these has been the Oliver Chilled Plow Works, at South Bend, where a thousand men are employed, on a plant covering 42 acres. The business was founded in 1855, by James Oliver, an Indiana iron-master, who recog- nized the great need of plows at once cheaper and better than those then in use, and, after years of ex- perimenting, invented the chilled plow, now so fa- mous. The outgrowth of Oliver's little foundry is the largest and best-planned plow-factory in the world. The chilled plow saves the country scores of millions of dollars yearly, in the cost of plowing ; and immense savings are also made in Europe and Africa, Asia and Australia, South America and Mexico, to all of which the Oliver plows are exported. Mr. Oliver was born in Liddes- dale, Scotland, and brought up in Indiana ; and many thousands of his plows are in use in Scotland to-day. The company also makes a large line of steel plows, besides a variety of riding plows ; and with hundreds of styles and sizes is well equipped for prairies and hill-sides, vineyards and cotton-fields, lowlands, clay and sandy soils, Texas black lands and South- American pampas. The Dodge Manufacturing Company, at Mishawaka (on the L. S. & M. S. and Ci. T. R. roads) has a ground plant of 80 acres, with a floorage of 16 acres, lumber yard of 12 acres, and a daily capacity of 600 pulleys. This company has the remarkable record of having origi- nated two of the most noteworthy ad- ditions to the mechanics of this gen- eration, viz.: the "Independence" Wood Split Pulley and the "Ameri- can System of Rope Transmission," which now constitute the specialties of their manufacture. The manufac- „ > doduE manufacturing company. SOUTH BEND : OLIVER CHILLED PLOW WORKS. 244 A'LVG 'S HANDBOOK' OF THE UNITED STA TES. INDIANAPOLIS : KINGAN & CO. , LIMITED. tirSl','-' tare of the "Independence" pulley commenced in 1884, and it has now attained a world-wide celebrity, and in this country it has become the standard of excellence. Its peculiarities are: I. the compression fastening to the shaft, with- out set screws or keys ; 2. the system of inter- changeable bushings, whereby every pulley may be adapted to any shaft. The American sys- tem of Rope Transmission substitutes a single endless rope with uniform tension, for the du- plicate ropes and uneven tension of the English system. By this system power may be transmitted in any quantity without regard to distance or direction and without loss from slip. Both the pulley and the rope transmission are the subjects of numerous patents. The development of the pork-packing industry during the time of the civil war induced the foundation of many large establishments in this line. Among these was Kingan&Co., Limited, whose business began in 1863, and has since grown into large proportions. Its head- quarters are in Belfast, Ireland, where an Irish provision business is conducted ; and there are branch houses at Kansas City (Kan.), New York and Richmond, Va. The works at Indian- apolis cover 13I- acres of ground, occupied by a large and valuable plant, including all the latest appliances for successfully conducting the business. A thousand men are employed here. Hogs are bought at local stockyards, brought in by farmers from Indiana and Illinois chiefly. These hogs are manufactured into hams, sides, shoulders, pickled pork and lard, and concomitant products, for all of which this firm enjoys an enviable repu- tation, in all parts of the world. Kingan & Co. , with their extensive ramifications, are said in vol - ume of business to rank second only to Armour iV Co., of Chicago, in this important industry. The road-carts used throughout the world ai\ made by the Parry Manufacturing Company of Indianapolis. This establishment dates only from 1882 ; but has rapidly attained such a development that now it enjoys the distinction of being the greatest producer of road-carts in the world. Its works cover 13 acres of floor spac£ in the heart of the city, and employ a thousand men, and have a capacity of 1,300 finished road-carts a day. The yearly product is 200,000 light, strong and durable road-carts. The welding is done by electricity, and the forging by natural gas. The wood used is second-growth hickory. These airily graceful Parry carts carry one or two riders with the greatest ease. The Parry Company also has a large department devoted to the manufacture of road and spring wagons, for which there is a continuous demand from all over the western country, and elsewhere. The settlement of the West and South has called for the erection and equipment of great _ numbers of flour-mills; and back in 1851, Ellis Nordyke & Son founded a company to supply these mills with their machinery. This business is now carried on by the Nordyke & Marmon Company, whose works at Indianapolis cover 13 acres, and employ 600 men. Here is made machinery for mil- ling flour and corn, oatmeal and hominy, and for grain-elevators, and the roller process in flour-mills. This house was one of the first to build flour-mill machinery by machinery, and put up mills complete 1 )y contract. 1 1 has produced a great number of im- % INDIANAPOLIS ; NORDYKE & MARMON COMPANY. THE STATE OF INDIANA. 245 INDIANAPOLIS : INDIANAPOLIS CABINET COMPANY. provements in milling outfits, and its small portable mills are extensively used. They are found in nearly all of the States, East, West, North and South, to- gether with the Nordyke & Marmon scalpers, flour dressers, crushers, shelters, degerminators, dryers, purifiers, and all other machines and tools used in milling. This establishment is the largest and most successful in the country, devoted exclusively to the flouring-mill industry. The largest exclusive office-desk-making estab- lishment in the United States is that of the Indian- apolis Cabinet Company, at Indianapolis, founded in 1870, and incorporated in 1880. Their saw and veneer mills and other works cover five acres, and employ 400 men, makvjig 60 desks a day. The company has several scores of agents, in the chief cities between Halifax and San Diego, and large warehouses in London. Fully half their product is exported, and the states- men and merchants of India, China and Japan, of Cape Colony and Natal, do their work at Indianapolis desks. The United-States Government buys about 2, 500 of these desks every year. All the South-American republics have supplied them to their legislators; Honduras and Panama receive large consignments, also ; and the Mexican Palace is equipped with over a hundred of these desks. The demand from London necessitates weekly shipments thereto. The great virtue of Indianapolis desks (especially for tropical countries) is in their hiiilt-up construction, with several iiieces of wood glued together, with the grain of one crossing the grain of another at right angles, so that the unified table-top or writing-bed cannot shrink or warp or season-crack. One of the abounding and beneficent uses of the great corn crop of Indiana and adjacent States is found in the manufacture of a variety of delicious food-preparations, like hominy, grits, clean meal and corn meal, corn flour and TERRE HAUTE : THE HUDNUT COMPANY. pearl mcal. Auiong the leading establishments in this department is the Hudnut Company (capital, $1,000,000), with large plants at Terre Haute and Mount Vernon (Indiana) and Pekin (Illinois), occupying ten acres and employ- ing 275 men. They receive daily about 40 car-loads of corn, and every day turn out 3,000 barrels of white corn goods. This output is sent to all parts of the United States and the Old World, and supplies millions of tables with nutritious and palatable food. The company was established in 1852, by Theodore Hudnut, who is now its president. With its several mills, it is recognized as the largest and most celebrated manufacturer of white corn products in the world. This company is the largest single user of corn for any purpose in the whole country. The Hudnuts in 1880 were the first to utilize the roller process for corn goods. The extensive works of one of the branches of the American Wheel Company are situated at Terre Haute, and employ a large number of skilled workmen. Another branch of this Company is at Fort Wayne. The Woodburn Sarven Wheel Works, at Indian- apolis, are also controlled by the American Wheel Co. The making of plate glass presented in- superable difficulties to American manufac- turers, until W. C. DePauw entered upon it, about 20 years ago, embarking in this Inisiness the large capital and valuable ex- perience 01 a long and successful career. terre haute : American wheel company's works. 246 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The works thus established at New Albany cover 30 acres of ground, and rank among the largest industries in Indiana, and the largest glass-works in America. The plant repre- sents an expenditure of $2,000,000, and a business of $2,000,000 a year, extending from New York to San Francisco. Its yearly capacity - ,.. is fully 2,000,000 feet of plate-glass, 150,000 boxes of window-glass and 30,000 gross of fruit jars. Sheets of polished plate-glass 150x220 inches in area are made here, and much fine and heavy glass for mirrors. There are 132 pots in the New-Albany works and 32 in the Louisville factory, whose product of rough plate-glass is sent to New Albany to be ground and finished. All manner of labor-saving devices are in use, new-alban^ : new-albany woolen mills. steam-elevators, special water- works, electric lights, and surface and elevated railroads, and the great furnaces, never allowed to cool, make from the fine sand of Indiana glass which has no superior in the world. The property is now owned by the heirs of W. C. DePauw, and leased and operated by the W. C. DePauw Co. The New- Albany Woolen Mills are said to be the largest works of the kind west of the Alleghany Mountains. They were founded in 1861, and grew by degrees from small begin- nings, until now they have a capital of $400,000 and a large surplus. The product includes fine cotton warps, for the jeans mills of the Southwest ; flannels and blankets ; and army kerseys, adopted by the United-States Government as the standard grade. The mills are sub- stantial brick structures, equipped with machinery of the latest and best pattern. Among the directors are N. T. and C. W. DePauw, who carry forward the investment made here by the Hon. W. C. DePauw, the eminent business-man, glass manufacturer, and philan- thropist, and benefactor of the University at Greencastle. The products of the New Albany Woolen Mills are highly esteemed by the dry-goods trade throughout the country. The natural-gas belt of Indiana has given rise to several bright manufacturing cities, prominent among which is Kokomo ; and 22 miles distant, at the very heart of the gas-belt, is the growing city of Elwood. These cities possess the largest plate-glass works in America — the Diamond Plate-Glass Company. The two plants form the greatest single industry in the State, and have arisen with wonderful rapidity, and reached immediate success ; probably, owing to the fact that the natural advantages have been acquired by a group of business men of national eminence in the manufacturing world, who have gone into these enterprises with abundant evidence of faith. The two plants cost $2,500,000, and the buildings cover nearly 25 acres, and give employment to 2,000 skilled operatives. By reason of its natural gas and - — other natural advantages, and its fine ti inspoitation facilities, the Diamond PI lie tilass Company has found an im- nicdnte market for its entire out-put, which goes to all parts of the Union. 1 he quality is found to be fully equal I 1 the best French plate-glass, and the Kokomo plate-glass has already become famous for mirrors. Both Kokomo and Ehvood have already 1 cached the development of much older cities, in their pretentious public buildings, and schools, churches, water -works, paved fleets, electric lights, street-cars KOKOMO AND ELWOOD DIAMOND PLATE GLASS COMPANY allcl Othcr rCqUlSltCS. MrtiON^fVOfriCY nDmrifERRiTOf^ .^^A^ ^^ -iii^- v>;^ TERRITORY W^\J- H15T0R Y. Population in 1890 (U. Census), Five Civilized Nations Indians, .... Colored, .... White, .... Reservation Indians Banks, Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives, Militia (disciplined), . Post-ofifices, . . Railroads (miles). Newspapers, . . Latitude, . . . Longitude, . . Temperature, Mean Temperature 1829 186,390 177,682 52,065 14,224 107,987 8,708 3 31,400 279 The Indian Territory was a part of the Louisiana Purchase from France, in 1803 ; and at that time the present use of this region was suggested by President Jefferson : ' ' To give estab- lishments in it to the In- dians of the eastern side of the Mississippi, in exchange for their present country." President Monroe, in 1824, deplored the evils growing out of the dwelling of the Indians in the Gulf States, their rapid degradation, bloody feuds, and the frequent conflicts between the State and National jurisdictions. He recom- mended that the tribes should be mioved beyond the Mississippi. In 1830, during Jackson's administration. Con- gress authorized their transfer, at the cost of the Govern- ment, to the imorganized part of the Louisiana Purchase, including the Indian Territory. Here they were established on tracts proportioned to the size of each tribe, with titles vested in them, and ample protection. The pledges of the United States to " forever secure to them or their heirs the country so exchanged with them" have been repeatedly broken, and will continue to be disregarded. Kansas has been wrested from them ; and for ten years the rising tides of colonization have beaten against this domain of the Indian Territory, and only the presence of active bodies of regular- army troops along the borders has prevented its permanent occupation by myriads of white settlers. Before the late civil war, the civilized tribes were wealthy and jirosperous, with large farms and plantations, and a lucrative trade with the Southern cities. But during the war thousands of the Indians enlisted and fought in the Federal and Confederate armies ; and at its close the tribes were reduced to poverty. Since that time they have advanced notably in prosperity and civilization, and now form large farming communities, with a promising degree of political, educational and religious progress. There are, however, many crimes of violence, STATISTICS. Settled at Old Agency. Settled in 1827 Founded by . . . Creek Indians. Ceded by the United States to the Indians, . 18 .S3°35' to 37° N. 94''2o' to 98° W. 12° — to 99" ... 58° TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP- ULATIONS. Lehigh, 3,000 Mc.4lester 3,000 Krebs, 3,000 Muscogee, 2,000 Purcell, 2,000 Vinita, 1,200 Tahlequah 1,200 Ardmore, ],ooo Atoka 800 Kufaula, 500 248 A'/NCrS HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. HERD OF BISON. Practically, how- largely committed by white T intruders, and the Indian courts have not been endowed with enough authority to repress them. Statesmen are striving to restore United-States control here, and erect a territorial government, to abate the ignorante, crime and -^ ■ savagery rampant, and to do away with the anomaly of a group ^ of alien governments in the heart of the Republic. Their plans contem- w plate replacing the reservations by fee-simple grants in severalty ; but the influence of the chief men in the Five Nations is strongly opposed to this movement. They claim that holding land in severalty is a remnant of barbaric European feudalism, tending to monopoly, and that now every Indian can occupy and enjoy some part of the tribal domains. ever, there are many rich men in the tribes, possessing great tracts of land, by virtue of their permitted ownership of the improvements thereon. Their criminals, until 1876, the Chero- kees either hanged or whipped. In the other civilized tribes criminals are now either shot to death or whipped. Among the Creeks a thief thrice convicted is shot to death. Descriptive. — The Indian Territory covers over 20,000,000 acres (a larger area than Maryland or South Carolina), with fertile and well-watered rolling prairies, diversified by abundant timber and rich river valleys, and the great oak-forest of the Cross Timbers, forty miles wide, and running from Texas northward to Kansas, with gigantic trees rising from an alluvial soil of remarkable fertility. The broad Arkansas River and its tributaries, the North and South Canadian, Cimarron, Little Arkansas, Neosho, and Verdigris, and the Red River and its affluents on the south, water the Territory in almost every part. The Arkansas is navigable by steamboats in high water from Fort Gibson to the Mississippi ; and steamers ascend the Red River along nearly the entire southern boundary. One of the chief natural endowments of the Territory is its coal-measures, covering 13,600 square miles, and producing a valuable bituminous coal, great quantities of which are mined every year. Iron and lead, copper and gold, marble and sandstone are found in various localities ; and salt appears in springs and marshes. The Climate is pleasant and equable, with but little snow or cold weather ; and the spring opens in February, leading to a long and hot summer. The latitude is the same as that of northern Georgia, and well adapted for corn, cotton and fruits. Fully 400,000 acres are under cultivation in the domains of the five civilized tribes, producing yearly over 4,500,000 bushels of corn, wheat and oats, 400,000 bushels of vegetables, 60,000 bales of cotton, and 175,000 tons of hay, amounting to nearly $6,000,000 a year. They own 800,000 head of live-stock. Among other products are many thousands of woollen blankets and shawls, willow baskets, 8,000,000 feet of lumber, maple sugar, wild rice, fish, hemlock bark, cord- wood and wool. The Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railway runs for 248 miles through the Cherokee, Creek, Choctaw ^lA- * i-'^i''^rH* '.*'*H'*)"V&itt