'*• ^ / vSfe - ^ nS THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAS ON A LARK SEEIN' ) 3 THE WEST -BY— B. J. MILAM F" LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two CoDies Received MAR 2 1906 Copyright Entry CLASS OS XXc. No. 13/ ° §3 ' COPY B. Entered in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. in the year 1905, By BUKT J. MILAM. PREFACE. In presenting, this volume to the public, I have endeavored to chronicle facts as I saw and experienced them as they were transpir- ing, and which have since become historical data, emblazoned upon the living pages of onr country's historv. There are thousands who are now citizens of the New Country which was opened to settlement in 1901, and also thou- sands who were witnesses to the stirring events enacted at that time, who will appreciate my efforts in thus recording a true and untar- nished picture of some of the exciting incidents which took place during the opening of the Kiowa, Comanche, and Apache Indian reserva- tions, which I have given in the four letters to my wife. The character sketches and the portrayal of the turbulent element, presenting to the mind both the smooth and rough sides of human na- ture without enlargement or embellishment of either, I am sure will be appreciated by those who won or lost on the final cast of the die, and like myself, enjoyed to the fullest extent the novelty of being one of the great multitude who participated in that colossal scheme. In regard to the Lewis and Clark Exposition trip, I stop bewildered, and ask the reader not to condemn me too hastily; but try to consider the littleness one feels when brought face to face with the magnificent grandeur of the far West, where the Majesty of God in all the glo- riousness of his being stands sublimely forth. On every hand was reflected from the truth- ful face of nature the omnipresence of a Su- preme Being. And as I gazed upon the won- derful beauties that flashed continuously like moving pictures before my vision, I possessed a feeling of silent admiration which held me spellbound, and while I felt the poetry and music of my surroundings, permeating every fibre of my being, language always failed me when attempting a description of that grand vista of lovely, rugged witnesses of God's handi- craft. B. J. MILAM. WITH LOVE AND DEVOTION TO MY DEVOTED WIFE, MOLLIE MILAM. I DEDICATE THIS BOOK To the Great Southwest and West, whose loyal, magnanimous, hospitable, and chivalric people I know will pardon the many omissions and commissions to be found in a volume, com- piled by one so very deficient in descriptive lan- guage suited to portray to the minds of the reader in words of poetical diction, the beau- ties of nature and art as they are commingled together in harmonious and attractive simili- tudes in our Great Western-land. 10 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW LETTER NO. 1. A TRIP FROM DUNCAN TO FORT SILL, I. T. TO REGISTER. Fort Sill, Indian Territory, July 18, 1901. Mrs. Mollie Milam, Lttfkin, Texas. My Dear Mollie: — I arrived at Duncan, I. T., yesterday at 1:15 o'clock P. M., having decided that I could register much sooner at Fort Sill, than I could at El Reno, Okla., though I had purchased my ticket through to the latter place, if you remember; but in order to avoid the crush and discomfort to be met with at El Reno, and considering my physical condition, I thought it best to lose my fare for the remaining seventy miles, so upon this decision, which as the future developed, proved to be a wise one, I left the train at Duncan, and immediately sought out means of conveyance to this place. On the train before reaching Duncan, I had become acquainted with Dr. Butler a very pleasant gentleman, hailing from Missouri; he and I with a red-headed Irishman from Texas ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. n by the name of Sullivan, who was the posses- sor of a hot, fiery breath, produced by the too frequent potations from a quart bottle of Fort Worth's "forty rod snake pisen," which had a tendency to make life a burden to those coining in immediate contact with this oyer mellow son of Erin, made up the party who engaged the services of one of the hacks, plying between Duncan and this place, with the owner for driv- er, a pleasant young man by the name of Al- bright. After the three of us had dined sump- tuously at a first class restaurant, for which the red-headed Hibernian wanted to settle for in toto himself, and which we would not allow, we repaired to a grocery store, where we made a few small purchases for our supper which we were to enjoy out on the beautiful prairies; our driver furnished the coffee, coffee-kettle, jugs of water, and dry kindling for the fire. So at 3 :30 o'clock everything being ready, we pulled out for the new Mecca that is now attracting thousands of speculative human beings who are ever restless for anything just so it is a change. On the trip out, Ave traveled through some of the most beautiful country it has ever 12 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW been rny pleasure to see. I could not begin to describe to you in this short pen picture the magnificent grandeur of this "The Promised Land." We passed through a broad expanse of high prairie with numerous large creeks wind- ing their way along, bordered with a growth of trees, their emerald green foliage glistening in the sunlight, lend a gorgeous enchantment to the view. The irregular windings of the creeks and continuous draws have the effect of break- ing what would otherwise prove to be a monot- onous roll of great level prairies. I find that nearly all the watercourses are fed by living springs, consequently the country is blessed with pure running water the year round. At 7:30 o'clock, we halted long enough to straight- en out our legs and cook supper. Here I tried my persuasive powers upon Sullivan, our hero from Cork, and finally prevailed upon him to the extent that he agreed to take one small pull at the mouth of the destroying angel he was carrying in his pocket, and then smash its body on the wheel of the hack, and let the contents of its stomach be quenched up by the thirsty earth at his feet; this he did, and after his rid- ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 13 dance of the damnable stuff he ate a hearty supper, and partook freely of the black strong coffee; so by the time we were ready to si art again he had escaped a possible attack of the delirium tremens, and was showing himself to be quite a nice, gentlemanly and companiona- ble fellow. Just before embarking again for onr last run of the trip, we three took a walk OA r er the adjacent prairies, and made onr selec- tion of the quarter section of land we shall file on when the drawing is over, and we are de- clared winners, as we feel perfectly confident that we will be anion o- the lucky ones. The mantle of darkness had then fallen around us, and the lovely views that we had been enjoying during our early evening's ride, were lost in the gathering gloom; but we were not lifeless by any means, a song occasionally, or a funny story by the M. D. would enliven us, and our red-headed friend from Erin go bragh had always a witticism to spring upon us, and usually at the most unexpected moment. I found him to be an old timer in the Indian coun- try, and was a full fledged "sooner," and has been in every run that has been made in the 14 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW last ten or twelve years. I asked him if he should be lucky and win a claim what he would do with it? "Och," said he, "I will be afther selling av it to onct as Oi did afther the ither tow rhuns I waz in, and then jine the gang, and raise a howlv row for anither devoide av the in- jun lands, the dommed red crithers should only have one hundred and sixtv acres the same as us poor divils, and yez can bet yez loife they are not entoitled to any more, vez hear that don't yez?" We were going along at a lively rate about 10:30 o'clock when one of the mules hitched to the hack stepped into a little rut, staggered for- ward, and fell across the pole of the hack. We all received quite a severe shaking up, and but for the quick actions of Doctor Butler we might have had a serious tear up; but no sooner had the mule begun to stumble than the Doctor, with the agility of a cat, was out upon the ground, and by the time the sprawling mule struck the earth broad side, in a final lurch it made, the Doctor had hold of the bridle with both hands, and as the frightened animal got up, it was quieted and held until Ave had all ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 15 safely cleared the entanglements of the hack, and run to the Doctor's assistance. After a hasty examination, we found about eighteen inches of the pole broken off, the driver was then in a peck of trouble, said he had no tools with which he could patch up the broken part. Then the Doctor came to the rescue again with his fund of ready ingenuity, he asked the driver what he could find in the way of tools to work with? He was informed that an old dull hatchet, which was used in splitting kindling wood, was all he had. "Trot her out," said the Doctor, "Build up a fire and we will see what can be done. I think we can fix it up, so it will car- ry us through allright, with the hatchet and my jackknife." The fire was quickly made, and the piece of broken pole with the metal thim- ble on the end was thrust into the flames in or- der to burn out the wood, and expand the iron. While this process was going on, the Doctor and I were busily engaged in trimming down the slivered end of the pole upon which the thim- ble had to be replaced. Soon everything was ready, and seizing the red hot thimble between two small pieces of plank, which we used in 15 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW lieu of tongs, we placed it in position, and with a few well directed blows with the hatchet, wielded by the veritable Doctor, and the quick application of a cold water bath from one of the jugs, to contract the metal, we had it securely fastened; far more secure than we imagined, for three weeks after this occurrence, I met the driver of the same outfit in Duncan, and asked him how much it cost him to have his broken hack pole repaired, supposing of course that he had been to the shop with it; but imagine my surprise, when he in a seemingly injured air in- formed me that it hadn't cost him anything, as it was not necessary to carry it to the shop, that he had been making two trips a week ever since it was broken and it was still as good as new. "Say, Mr.! don't you know that fellow, from Missoury called himself a doctor, and that may be what they call him back there; but out in Kansas where I come from we called 'em blacksmiths and durn good uns at that; if he is a sure enough doctor and is as good at doctor- ing as he is at blacksmithing, he needn't come all the way out here to draw a piece of land in order to make a living on. I should think he ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 17 could find a living hanging out for him in old Missoury." Everything being ready for hitch- ing up and renewing our journey, that had been so unceremoniously interrupted, the mules were led around, and in order to make himself useful as well as posing for a sunset ornament, our wild Irishman made a dive for the hack pole to lift it up for receiving the breast yoke, forget- ting all about its being hot, he grabbed hold of the thimble and Oh! My! the effluvium of his breath was lost in the imaginary sulphuric odor, emanating from the forcible language that was floating out upon the night's chilly atmosphere. "Howly murtherin Saint Patritchk! may the divil fly away wicl yez; Och, and whoi didn't yez tell me it wer the diviPs own tongue I would be afther teking howld av?" These are only a few of the milder expletives used during the antics he cut while his hands were cooling down to a degree of comfort, to where he could control his much enraged feelings. In a few minutes we were off. Our delay incident to the break- down made us late in our arrival here. It was just 12:15 o'clock A. M. when we drove up in 18 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW front of an immense lodging tent, where I se- cured a cot for the remainder of the night. After several hours of sweet sleep, I was aroused by the tramping and mntterings of the thousands of people that were early astir in the "Tent city" getting their breakfasts, and mak- ing arrangements for joining the registering companies that were being formed, and in or- der to have this trying ordeal over with as soon as possible, I was quickly out, and in a short time had almost lost my identity in the mass of struggling humanity I found upon the streets. After I had my breakfast, I joined company 197, and by 10:30 o'clock had registered, whereas if I had gone to El Keno I might have been obliged to stand in line several days before reg- istering. I find Fort Sill, instead of being almost dor- mant of animation, and showing that tired and sleepy appearance so characteristic of old Army Posts, now presents qnite an animated and bustling appearance, with the thousands of home s°ekers camping around the outskirts of the soldiers' quarters and along the banks of beautiful Cache (cash) creek near by. The hun- CERTIFICATE. LAWTON LAND DISTRICT, OFFICE AX LAWTON, OKLAHOMA. UDts Is to certffg That... has shown himself to be duly qualified aud has registers as an applicant to make homestead entry from the Kiowa, Comanche and Apache ceded lands within the Law'/on land district and is authorized to enter upon and examine the unallotted and unreserved portion of said' ceded lands lying south of the first standard parallel, north, at any time pri'.r to August 6, 1901, for the sole purpose of aiding him in making selection and entry of said lands, but not for the pur- pose of effecting a settlement thereon prior to entry. Zbte Certificate is not transferable, but must be pro.ented with the application for entry, and any attempt to transfer the same will forfeit all benefits secured by reason of said registration. Countersigned at.^...^^Z^\. £-OA*T. T ..^.-... JJ * i »y July„/.....U..« 1901 By The Honest Farmer's Certificate of Registration. ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 21 dreds of prairie schooners with their white can- vas coverings, the jam of buggies, hacks, sur- reys, jumpcarts, and in fact every vehicle that will hang together, and stand the trip from the nearest railroad station, and bear their burden of bringing to this place the gathering throng that is ever drifting this way; the white winged tents glistening in the sunlight, the white limestone buildings of the fort, and the beauti- ful stone mansion of the commanding officer (Major Scott, at present), perched as it is upon the highest point of the hill upon which Fort Sill is built, with its lovely grounds falling gent- ly away until lost in the prairies below, all this intermingling of varied scenes presented to the eyes of one who can appreciate the sur- roundings, causes him to draw in his mind a picture that is both lovely and enchanting. All one can hear now is — "Have you registered?" And of course everybody is engaged in booming the new town site, Lawton, which will be the county seat of this new county of Comanche. I joined a new town site company early this morning by donating to one of the ostensible promoters the munificent sum of twenty-five 22 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW cents as a membership fee, and upon the pay- ment, I became a full fledged member; it did not cost me much to join and it will never cost me any more. I don't mind this little "pull of the leg," I really consider it a good investment if that is all it requires to keep me in good standing with these people, who seem to be the leaders of the heavy weight lodging establish- ments that have temporarily located here. The prediction of "Sooners" of other runs in Okla- homa, is that in one hour after the town site of Law ton is declared open, on the 6th of August, it will have a population of five thousand peo- ple. On the Gth, the lots of the town site will be put up at auction, and sold to the highest bidder; it is predicted by the knowing ones that in two hours after the sale of the lots begins, there will be found inside the city limits, all kinds of enterprises in first class running shape, even to the publishing of a daily newspaper, the Lawton Democrat. I had the pleasure of meet- ing Mr. L. T. Russell, the future editor, late of Ryan, I. T., and who still, I believe, runs a week- ly paper at that place. 1 am making arrangements to drive over to ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 23 the Lawson site some time today and will write you tomorrow. I am very tired today, however the condition of my health is improving rapidly. I am living cheaply enough so far as the prices are concerned; but there is not much to eat in this low cost of living, but I am falling into line all right, and am surprised at the low prices I find prevailing on everything that is offered for sale. In fact, I think the people here should get better prices, for the hardships incident to living and laboring under the disad- vantages should be considered in making and governing all prices; but such is not the case and I find, on the contrary, the people who are trying to furnish accommodations for the com- ers and goers are poorly paid indeed. While I may have to undergo some hardships while out in this country, I feel sure that my health will be greatly benefited, therefore I will have no complaint to make. Write me at this place unless I notify you otherwise. Devotedly, B. J. Milam. 24 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW LETTER NO. 2. A Trip From Fort Sill, I. T. Back to Duncan, I. T. Duncan, Indian Territory, July 21, 1901. Mrs. Moeeie Milam, Lufkin, Texas. Dear Mollie: — Mv reason for writing von a postal card on the 19th inst, was that I had on- ly just arrived in Duncan from Fort Sill late in the afternoon, and learned upon inquiry that I could get mail off on the delayed south bound Rock Island Mail train, which would carry the letter from Ft. Sill in which I had instructed you to address me at that place. I had a nice ride back to Duncan behind Mr. Thompson's spanking span of large Missouri mares. Mr. Thompson came from Missouri to Duncan ten months ago, intending to join the "sooner" gang, and gobble a slice of Uncle Sam's domain (?), when the long expected run should take place; but now, — poor fellow! he has to take his chance in the "Big Wheel" along with ns "poor devils." "Of all sad words," Mr. ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 25 Thompson, "of tongue or pen, the saddest are these; it might have been," — A. Hush. Instead of coining back the main Duncan and Ft. Sill road, at "Red Store" two miles south from Fort Sill, we took a new road that bears south five to eight miles farther down into the free lands of the Lawton district. From where we crossed Cache creek to Big Beaver crossing, a distance of about eighteen miles, is a beauti- ful prairie country. I don't think it can be sur- passed for unblemished beauty anywhere in the United States, and I think it is very fertile, as the native mesquite and blue stem grasses grow from knee to waist high all over it. No one, in his most vivid dreams of imagination, who has never seen this country, can picture in his mind with any degree of correctness, the beauties here presented to the delighted vision of the passing traveler as he rolls along lazily in his prairie schooner, protected from the heat of the sun's rays by the friendly sail of his dry- land vessel, or as he bowls merrily over the prai- rie in a livery rig. He sees the primitive beauties of this unde- veloped land, which until very recently, has 26 THE HONEST PARMER PROM ARKANSAW beeu the paradise of the noble red man and his closely allied friends the cattle men and that useful, and very necessary adjunct to the last party mentioned, the cowboy. As I watched the intrepid cowboys, in their daring reckless- ness and seeming negligence of their own lives and limbs, astride of a bucking broncho of ten dollars value, seated in a full rigged saddle that cost forty or fifty dollars, dash over the treacherous prairies in pursuit of the great herds of cattle that are now being rounded up to be driven or shipped to other places of pas- turage, (as all the cattle that are in this country now must be gotten out by August the 6th, the date of opening.) To my mind is recalled a verse from a poem by Rev. Abe Bulkney, which he recited in Lufkin several years ago. You re- member it I know. "Last night as I lay on the prairie, Looking up at the stars in the sky, I wondered if ever a cowboy Would drift to that sweet bye-and-bye. ^ Oh ! they say there will be a grand round up, When Cowboys like cattle will stand To be cut by the riders of judgment, Who are posted and know every brand." I said that I had a nice ride coming back, ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 27 but I will have to modify that statement to some extent. Thousands of vehicles of all kinds have been traveling the main Duncan and Fort Sill road for several weeks, passing to and fro be- tween these places, consequently the dust, ow- insr to the drouth of four months duration and the constant travel, is now from three to eight inches deep. We got along all right on our route until the road came back into the main road ten miles from Duncan, where in a few minutes afterward, there came up a severe wind and thunder storm, — no rain. And dust! Oh! My! It almost choked our team; we could hard- ly get them along, and as for ourselves, I could not begin to explain so }^ou could fully compre- hend the real condition we were in; however, we certainly were not in a condition to "cuss" as we were too full (of dust) for utterance. Un- der these conditions we were forced to travel until within about one mile of Duncan the wind subsided, and as we drove into town, in our im- aginations we could not help but think that the good people upon seeing us could hardly re frain from comparing us, and" aptly so, to the first creation of man, when God made Adam of 28 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW dust and thereupon breathed the breath of life into him; so also we were abundantly able to testify by lip and personal appearances that the breath of life had only just been breathed into our bodies (that is upon the subsidence of the storm.) Aren't we of the "Earth and of the earth earthy?" So we are surely made of dust and, as could be seen, quite a large portion of it was of recent formation. I believe I could have written you more intelligently about my trip back if my brain had not become so befog- ged with the accursed terror. I have secured a pleasant boarding place, and have a nice cool room , clean bed, and above all, pure, cool cistern water to drink, and the price per week for my accommodations is very moder- ate. I think I shall try to get back to Fort Sill bv next Saturday. I want to be there by that time in order to witness the sight of the "Tent City" moving off the Government Military Re- , serye. You know the registering ceases on the 26 th of this month, and I heard as I sat in a lodg- ing tent in Fort Sill writing you on the 18th inst. the soldiers proclaiming throughout the town to the people there assembled, that all persons ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 29 found upon the Reserve after the 26th would be forcibly ejected. It is predicted the people will then immediately move upon the edge of the town site of Lawton, which is five miles south of Fort Sill. They dare not go inside the bounds as the town site reserve will be strongly picketed with Federal troops until the 6th of August. In fact, according to the proclama- tion of the President, no citizen of the United States except those registering has any right, whatever, inside the boundaries of the entire new country until after the date of the opening; however the general belief is: that none of these people will be molested. After witnessing the removal of the canvas suburb of Fort Sill, I expect to return to Dun- can, and remain until about the 3rd of August, when I will go over to Lawton, and remain until the drawing is over. I would not miss being in Lawton the day of the opening for anything in the world. I think it is going to be a sight I shall remember distinctly as long as I live. The nearer the time approaches for the great event to come off, the more excited everybody be- comes. Of course the center of the great boil- 30 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW ing caldron of excitement is now located at El Reno; but the center of attraction will soon be changed, on the 29th Lawton will be the en- chanted spot of the mind's imagination. I am truly glad I did not go to El Reno, as I understand there is a very boisterous crowd there, and the extreme heat and scarcit}^ of water make it very hard upon the people who go there to register; while here at Duncan, which is located in the midst of the great prai- ries, there is always a delightful breeze blow- ing, and the nights so cool that in order to be comfortable I have to sleep under two covers. And again, it is jnst the size town I like, not only to be in for a short stav; but it is mv ideal of a town to live in. It has a population of about three thousand among the best and most hospitable people it has ever been my pleasure to meet; it is built up nearly altogether of the old Southern type of citizens. I find no ne- groes here, while there is no law against ne- groes living in the town, there is an under cur- rent of feeling among the people that is strong enough to show from surface indications that ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 3 { the colored man is not wanted, and consequent- ly lie is not here. The business part of the town is built of red sandstone, which is obtained from a large quar- rv about four miles from town, and I can truth- fully say that this is the most beautiful build- ing stone I have ever seen. Instead of fading and becoming a light, pale hue from exposure to the weather, the longer it is exposed the red- der it becomes, until finally after } 7 ears of ex- posure it becomes a beautiful blood red color. Among the public institutions noted, I find three churches represented: Methodist, Chris- tian and Baptist. A splendid school building and a well established school. Duncan is known as the Queen City of the Territory, to which appellation I think she is justly entitled. The absence of saloons is more noticeable here to one coming from the States than most any other point of interest about the town. I find it is against the Federal laws to sell or offer for sale any intoxicating liquors or drinks in the Indian Territory or to even bring it within the borders. But I heard a gentle- man saying last night (and he seemed to know 32 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW whereof he spoke) that there are already one hundred and fifty applications for saloon li- cense in the town of Lawton, and the saloon men would be selling- whiskey in the new town in less than twenty-four hours after the opening. What do you think of that? Another gentle- man made the statement that there would be ten thousand people in Lawton in three days after it was opened. I think this last state- ment overdrawn. Mollie, there are two, one hundred and sixty acre blocks of land lying next to the town site of Lawton, which are estimated to be worth for- ty thousand dollars each the minute the lucky persons draw them; they are Nos. 1 and 2, while there are several 1-4 sections that will be worth from two thousand five hundred to five thou- sand dollars each. About the 1st of August when I go to Fort Sill and call for my mail, if the postmaster should hand me out a notification card showing that I had drawn No. 1, the capital prize worth a cool forty thousand, you know I would almost die of strangulation of the heart. Say: a dust storm wouldn't be "in it" a little bit, do you ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 33 think? We can only wish for a consummation of these fond hopes, and enjoy the possible real- ization of them until our fate is decided by the turn of the great wheel. Well, I will write you again on my trip to Lawton. Devotedly, B. J. Milam. 34 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW LETTER No. 3. Five Days Trip Hunting and Fishing In The Comanche Country. Duncan, Indian Territory, July 31, 1901. Mrs. Moelie Milam, Lufkin, Texas. Dear Mollie: — After my arrival in Duncan Friday the 19th inst., my whole thought was centered on the consummation of one desire, and that was to get up a crowd and make a tour of the Comanche countrv. I realized the fact that I should have a much needed rest af- ter my tiresome trip to Fort Sill, consequently I did nothing in the matter until the Monday fol- lowing, when I met and became acquainted with Mr. Walter Davenport, Clerk in the Cheek Lum- ber Yard. While talking with him in regard to the trip, his father came up and joined in the conversation. "Whv!" he said, "I have a pair of good horses and my neighbor Mr. Hazle- wood has a wagon and I aim satisfied he will go, so get up two or three others, and furnish the feed for the horses and grub for the crowd, ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 35 and Mr. Hazlewood will do the cooking; I will carry the bedding for all, and the trip won't cost you much, and we will all have a jolly good time." Now vou know I didn't "do a thing" but jump at that proposition, and readily agreed; but as a "chuck" box had to be made in which to carry our supplies, and a little harness had to be mended, the arrangement was made for me to get my men together, and be ready bright and early Wednesday morning; as I had prior to that time met a young gentleman Mr. Messer and an old gentleman named McElvy and liked them very much, I soon hunted them up and laid the proposition before them, to which they at once agreed. So Tuesday evening, we three went to the grocery store of Mr. Williams and purchased our supplies for the trip, and after we figured the sum total up, it amounted to only two dollars and forty-five cents each, for the five days' trip. Now, I will give you a sketch of the trip from the time we left Duncan until our return. On Wednesdav mornincr Julv 24th, we all met at the Cheek Lumber Yard where Messrs. Hazle- wood and Davenport had made a nice, conve- 36 THE HONEST FARMERTROM ARKANSAW nient "chuck" box; we fitted it in between the side boards of the rear end of the wagon. From there we went to the store, loaded in the "chuck," and were just about ready to start when a young man, driving a gray pony to a light road-wagon, drove up, and wanted to be included in our party; as Mr. Davenport and Mr. Hazlewood were ready to vouch for him social- ly and morally, we all agreed for him to join us, so with this last addition we set our faces to- ward the west for the purpose of spending five davs in the "Promised Land" or Comanche Conn- try, investigating soil, grasses, water courses, and general prospective resources of that coun- try I think it appropriate at this point to give you a little sketch of the personnel of our party. As Mr. Davenport was the old patriarch of the crowd, I will begin with him. Uncle Seborn Ludwell Davenport was born in Clarke County, Ga., in 1829, and is now hale and hearty, bear- ing his 71 vears with the easv grace of a Roman, and as lie has sailed over the se^as of these beau- tiful prairie lands for twenty years or more, he assumed the place of Captain over the destinies ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 37 of our full rigged prairie schooner upon her voy- age. Mr. John Wesley Hazlewood is a native Kentuekian, in which State he was bora forty- eight years ago, went to Texas in 1871; but for the past ten years has been living in or near Duncan, I. T., and he is not, as his name would imply, a Methodist, but a full-fledged deep wa- ter Campbell ite. Mr. John McElvy was born in Alabama in 1844, and when he was one year old his father moved to Angelina County, Texas, where he located Homer, the old County Site, some time between 1845, and 1S50. Mr. McElvy went through the Confederate War, served in the 8th Texas Infantrv, Walker's Division, Hil- lenkamp Adjutant. His present home is in Rosenberg, Fort Bend County, Texas. Mr. Frank Messer was born in the old Tar Heel State, North Carolina, Haywood County, in 1SG8; went out to Fannin County, Texas, last February, and came out to the opening of the Comanche Country two weeks ago. Mr. Frank Carmeyer, owner of the gray pony and road wagon, was born in Indiana some thirty-five years ago, landed in the Chickasaw Nation about ten years ago, and has been foreman of Colbert's 38 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW cattle and pony ranch for the past five years, "Buster" Key, our "Mascot" of the outfit, aged nine years and related to Mr. Hazlewood, and the Colonel (that's me) filled out the list of our merry party. Uncle Seborn Davenport put the handle to my name before he had known me ten minutes; but not through any disrespect in the least, and in a verv short time I was known as the "Colonel" to the whole party, and tried to bear the honored title with credit to those who bestowed it. So unfurling the sails and tightening up the stays here and there of our weatherbeaten prai- rie schooner, we were off for the Comanche Country, and were soon making our way through the Indian pasture lands two and one-half miles from town. This pasture is seven miles long and five miles wide, and lying as it does, so near Duncan, I can't help but think it will be quite an injury to the trade that might other- wise come to Duncan from the new territory now opening for settlement, and to make mat- ters still worse, adjoining this large pasture on the north is the Government Wood Keserve, ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 39 consisting of twenty-eight thousand acres, quite a draw-back to Duncan — Don't you thiuk? After passing through the big pasture, we crossed the head of Plum Creek 5 miles from town, turned a little south of west, and traveled through high rolling prairies interspersed with timber; the ground was covered with blue stem and mesquite grasses. We stopped for dinner on Little Beaver at 1:30 o'clock, that is, on the banks of a small deep lake, or bayou that is made by the back waters of Little Beaver, and staked the horses out on the grass, which grows luxuri- antly along the creek. Mr. Hazlewood took charge of the culinary department as chief, Un- cle Seborn, assistant. Mr. Garmeyer left his wagon a few minutes before we arrived at the lake and soon rejoined us with a nice supply of squirrels for dinner, and only a mile or so back, Mr. Hazlewood had shot some plover, and after the wagon had stopped, Buster, our "Mascot," gathered his hook and line and with a grass- hopper for bait (of which the prairie grass was literally full) soon had a nice fish landed, so our first dinner out proved to be a feast far be- yond our most sanguine anticipations. 40 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW We left there at 3 o'clock P. M., and traveled through some very rich bottom land for several miles to the confluence of Little Beaver and Big Beaver; as it was then getting late, and we had to select some place for our night's camp, we pulled back upon the prairie overlooking the valley of the two Beavers below, and there we found springs dripping out of the granite rocks over-capping the bluffs. So we christened the springs, "Dripping Springs," as the water fell from the crevices of the massive rocks drop by drop, pure and sweet, as if the foot of Nature was set firm upon the breast of Mother Earth, and was sending forth the life-saving nectar for the benefit of man, God's chosen handiwork. Just as we got our camp located in good shape, something was said about the sun-set, and turning my eyes to the west I beheld a scene that was indeed beautiful. Oh, how glo- rious and grand the great orb of day appeared, sinking to rest in the golden halo beyond the far stretches of the rolling prairies and the his- toric Mounts Scott and Sheridan in the far dis- tant Wichita Mountains! After the horses were properly staked out, we all took a short ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 41 walk over the adjoining prairies, and with one accord joined in expressing our admiration of the country. After returning to camp, Mr. Hazlewood again took charge of the kitchen, and soon served a supper that was fit for the gods. Sup- per over, the time was spent until 9 o'clock spinning yarns. There were quite a number told that were hugely enjoyed; but the palm was finally yielded to Uncle Seborn Davenport, when he got off the following on himself. He said, "My boys (I think there are nine grown sons) and myself were out hunting some wild hogs, several years since, that had been giving me some trouble by breaking through my fence and damaging my crops. The dogs had chased the bunch into Wild Horse Creek bottom, and were crowding them pretty close when all at once the whole 'darned' bunch faced about with their bristles raised like porcupines, showed fight, and as wild hogs are very dangerous when brought to bay, the word was hastily passed around for everv fellow to look out for number one. So I made a break for a tall slim pecan tree and, as I thought, climbed to the topmost 42 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW branch and halloed as loud as I could yell, 'boys, get a tree, I am all right!' Then I heard the voice of one of the boys from the top of a tall pecan tree close by say, 'yes dad, I see you are all right. Just stay where you are, I don't think anything but a cyclone could move you/ and dod rat my time, Colonel, would you believe it, I was settin' right down flat on the ground with my legs stretched out on each side of a little slim pecan about six inches through, and my arms clasped around the body of it as high up as I could reach. The tree was so small that when I made an effort to clinch it in order to climb to a place of security, I would slip to the ground and was that bad sheered, I thought I was shore settin' in the top of the blamed thing, and if the dogs hadn't got the hogs on the run again, I would have been in the middle of a bad fix." After Uncle Seborn's yarn, we all sought our couches for the night's repose. The Colonel and Uncle Seborn had the honor of occupying the only cots in the camp, while the others of the party sought a soft place on the prairie where the grass grew the tallest, and where they could ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 43 more easily find the sweet charms of Morpheus, as they rested upon the lap of Mother Earth covered by the free open canopy of Heaven. It was indeed a beautiful night, with myriads of twinkling little stars peeping out from the blue firmament above, and the silvery river of heav- en traversing the boundless realm of space. I had to linger and feast my soul upon the beau- ties of Nature's handicraft, displayed before my enraptured vision, before finally yielding to the sweet restful charms of sleep. Early the next morning, we were awakened by the howling of wolves in the distant bot- toms, and coyotes out on the prairies quite a distance away. They are terrible cowards, but all the same, they had a very depressing effect upon our comrade Frank Messer — he was not afraid Oh! No! he said their howling just grated upon his nervous system to such an ex- tent he could hardly bear it. We were all soon astir and making prepara- tions for our breakfast, with Mr. Hazlewood at the helm. Those duties were soon over, tents folded, and we were off at 7 o'clock for the ver- dant banks of Cache creek, the largest water 44 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW course in all the new country, distance about 17 miles. From there we went a south course down the creek, several miles through a second table land, very rich soil, dot- t e d with bunches of timber here and there, then we had to return to our camping place of the night before as we had failed to find a ford. We crossed Big Beaver at 10 '/'clock, entered a beautiful lanscape of high rolling prairie, sandy nature, growth of grass good, and arrived on the banks of the pictur- esque Cache Creek, at 12:30 o'clock, an ideal place for stopping, unloaded camp outfit, and struck camp for the next two days. Our sur- roundings were indeed beautiful, the bottom is almost one mile wide, rising gently to the high bluffs of the prairie in the background. As I was going with Uncle Seborn to stake out the horses so that they could feed at Na- ture's bounteous board to their full satisfaction, 1 perforce made a discovery of a very peculiar, and to me a new species of grass as I had never seen anything like it before, and I found that all the other members of the party were equally as much in the dark in regard to it as I was. ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 45 As we started out to perform the duty to which I referred I caught my foot in something I sup- posed to be a vine of some kind, and I at once kissed Mother Earth full in the face, I took not the name of the Lord in vain; but laughed over my first misfortune, but after the third terrific contact with the ground, I asked Uncle Seborn why he persisted in tangling me up in his stake rope? he at once answered by making charges of the same tenor against me; it seemed that he had troubles of his own, and had sustained several falls also, and was trying to locate the cause of his dilemma. We at once got together and made a search for our common enemy, and found it to be a long running grass of a very coarse nature; we succeeded in pulling from among the matted mass of prairie grasses, us- ually found hi the creek bottoms, a full length spine of the grass, and found it to be by actual measurement twenty feet in length; the joints were about ten inches apart, and at every joint there would shoot up a bunch of long slender blades; the grass did not seem to cling to the earth as the bermuda and other like grasses do, but was held up from the ground and supported 46 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW by other grasses, about midway between their roots and tops, thereby setting a sure deadfall for the unsuspecting pedestrian. Near where we camped were several clear wa- ter lakes, covered with jonquils, which were in full bloom and very beautiful, resembling great- ly the Yellow Calla. As soon as we got clever- ly settled, Buster, our "Mascot," gathered up his fishing tackle and made a raid on the grass- hoppers, and in a very short time had enough fish for dinner, caught from the limpid waters of the Cache near by. While he was fishing, he discovered a very large green bull frog, and with a shot from our gun we silenced his sonor- ous voice forever. Cache Creek is noted for its immense frogs which would make a French- man's heart beat with the liveliest anticipa- tions of the good eating to follow the capture of one of the green monsters. After dinner, Mr. Frank Carmeyer took his gun and went out in quest of squirrels. He came in at 3 o'clock with five large fo* squir- rels, and immediately started out again saying, "The woods are just teeming with them." From 3 o'clock until sundown, the balance of ON A LARK SEBIN' THE WEST. 47 the crowd was engaged in seining, as we had carried a one hundred foot seine with us, we caught an ample supply for our supper and breakfast. Frank came in loaded with squir- rels again, and Oh, such eating! A "Weary Willie" would have thought he had lost the art if he could have caught sight of our hungry crowd, as we were gathered around the camp fires, devouring in ravenous fashion the good things before us. After supper Mr. McElvy in- dulged in an Indian war dance, he said, to set- tle his supper, and for the general edification of those present, before retiring for the night. We all enjoyed a good night's rest and were astir by early daylight. Friday morning, Uncle Seborn Davenport was in a stew about his horses; they had pulled up the stake pins to which they were fastened, sometime during the night, and were gone, and had undoubtedly hit the trail back to Duncan, 35 miles away. There was a drizzling rain fall- ing with appearances of getting harder, Uncle Seborn, mounted on Frank Carmeyer's little gray, with a quilt folded and strapped over the horse's back for a saddle, immediately after 48 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW breakfast, struck out after his missing horses. Mr. Hazlewood and Mr. Carmeyer took their guns and went after the squirrels again while Buster, our "Mascot," and the "Colonel," with their fishing tackle made for the creek, Mr. Messer and Mr. McElvy keeping house. At noon Mr. Hazlewood and Mr. Carmeyer return- ed with their complement of game. At 4 o'- clock Uncle Seborn came in without his horses, utterly exhausted; he had been in the rain all morning, riding over a large portion of Bur- nett's big pasture, which is six or seven miles wide and thirty-five miles long. We were camped on the western edge of the pasture. Mr. Hazlewood then got astride the gray pony, and struck a bee line to the gate on the east side of the pasture six miles away, where we entered the morning before. Mr. Frank Carmeyer and Mr. Messer struck out in an- other direction afoot. They left camp at 4:30 o'clock with blood in their eyes, determined to get the horses or perish in the attempt. Mr. Hazlewood returned at 7 o'clock with the horses, having found them seven miles away, hung up in the pasture fence which was wire. It ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 49 was still raining some and the night was dark. We lighted onr Bull's Eye lantern, and hung it out on the top of a tall pecan tree at the edge of the woods, so the boys out afoot could see its friendly light from afar off on the prairies, and be guided thereby back to camp. About 9 o'- clock they came plodding in, footsore and weary, and also as wet as drowned rats in a sink hole, having tramped about fifteen miles. Mr. Mes- ser, the "tenderfoot," was about ready to yield up the ghost. We all certainly complimented him upon his endurance. Our crowd was augmented about dark by the arrival of another prairie schooner, loaded down to the gunwale with passengers who had been out several days, looking for the land cor- ners, which are the Blarney-stones of all home- seekers. They seem to think their future depends upon their finding and locating the corner stone, when perhaps not one out of every hundred who are thus spending their time, will be lucky enough to draw a claim; but it is that chance of winning that keeps them enthused, and shows plainly the propensity of the people of this great country to gamble. 50 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW About 10 o'clock, the air became cool, the clouds drifted away, aud the stars peeped out, and again the combined party gathered around the campfire, and indulged in spinning yarns until after 11 o'clock. Uncle Seborn still held the leather medal presented to him the first night out, as being champion storyteller of the crowd. On arising the next morning, we dis- covered that the prairie schooner which an- chored near us the night before had broken her cable and drifted away. Not long after their departure, just as Old Sol was showing his shining face over the east- ern horizon, we discovered coming across the prairie, two lean, bony looking ponies, bearing upon their backs a long, lank man wearing a broad brimmed, flap-down straw hat, and two little boys, the latter aged about 8 and 10 years respectively; the man riding the clay-bank pony with flaxen mane and tail, and going in a swing- ing gait, looked in the distance like an old plan- tation negress cutting ginger bread for the pickaninnies, and the two boys were riding the little bay in a jogging trot, both little fellows occupying seats in the same saddle without any ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 51 apparent inconvenience. To their saddles was fastened their camping and cooking outfit, or kit, as it is commonly called out here. The out- fit consisted of a long handled frying-pan, a rasher of bacon, and a little flour, and after they had drawn quite near, we could also see at- tached to the saddle the man was riding, what proved to be on closer inspection, some old dir- ty ragged looking quilts, which they used for sleeping purposes and protection from inclem- ent weather. The trio rode up and the man gave his name as Sabin, and made the state- ment that he had spent about seven or eight weeks in riding up and down, and around the whole of the Comanche, Kiowa, and Apache country; with no one but the little boys for company, making their home or camp wherever night overtook them, sleeping under the pro- tecting branches of some friendly cotton-wood or sturdy old burr-oak, fishing from the waters of the numerous creeks, of which sport the lit- tle boys seemed to be particularly fond. The little fellows seemed to be in excellent health, and said they were enjoying their nomadic life. From the conversation I had with Mr. Sabin, I 52 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW inferred that lie is from everywhere but here, and as soon as the opening is over, he will be from here also. I sized him up to be a typical "sooner" of the old-school type. The only use lie has for the one hundred and sixty acres of land is to sell it for a few dollars as soon as he has made his filing, and then clamor for anoth- er division of the Indian lands. Messrs. Hazlewood and Carmeyer were off to the woods again, and came in about 11 o'clock loaded down with squirrels. That being Mr. McElvy's birthday, we all took special pains with our dinner, and had everything done to a turn, and the old gentleman ate with the avidi- ty of one who could fully appreciate the efforts of those who had his entertainment uppermost in their minds; and he will, indeed, be fortu- nate if he can continue through life with the bounties of God bestowed upon him, as they were upon his 57th birthday. At 3:30 o'clock we pulled up stakes, and moved up Cache two miles to Horse Shoe Bend, and struck camp near the edge of the bottom where the timber lands and valley prairie come together. We were very close to the banks of ^jF'V':-!' iPJ M '-"*■ vS '^ ' ' » v*P d '^i'PS '*{._. *:&« •i-i ^Slr '.»ai fn .•;•■:•■( -.'M CD >?■*»* >*fil +J tfl " ^ - r &isi •r-i W) 'J-'raM cd * t ti i ' CD ^ -M bo K. s * ■ •rH u A 05 o o cd 43 o o o (II a CD O 02 'ccS O • rH a ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 55 the creek, which are very precipitous and from 25 to 30 feet above the water at its present low stage; the bottom there is entirely above high waters, and the soil is black as midnight, and six or seven feet deep, covered with timber of the following kinds, which I believe predomi- nate in all the bottom lands: Cotton-wood, burr oak, elm, and hackberry with some walnut and pecan. After establishing our camps, all of our crowd with our new-found friend, the "sooner," took the seine, and made a break for the blue waters of the creek; the boys plunged in, and began to make a haul, while Uncle Seborn and the Colonel followed along the steep banks, giv- ing advice and bossing generally, with Mr. Mc- Elvy, Buster, our "Mascot," and the "sooner's" boys along to carry the fish. We soon had about one hundred and fifty pounds of the fin- ny tribe in the toils of the seine, consisting of buffalo, drum, and perch. As we then had enough from which to make our selection, we made our way back to camp where supper was shortly served in grand style, the "sooner" proved to be a jewel in disguise, as he was an 56 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW expert in seining, and the waters were never too deep for him to "tackle." We could hard- ly have gotten along without his services, and after our evening's repast, we were entertained by his recounting his experiences in the wild and woolly West; and I can say his experiences have been quite startling and varied, as he has been a "sooner" in nearly every State and "boom" town west of the Mississippi. About 11 :30 o'clock, we all tumbled in for the night, but as we had partaken very freely of the strong black coffee served for supper, and the night was so beautiful and the breeze was so de- lightful, 1 think it must have been 2 o'clock be- fore we were sleeping soundly. On the following morning, which was Sunday, we were all astir bright and early. Our breakfast was the last meal we had together on the verdant banks of dear old Cache. We made our start for Dun- can at 8 o'clock via Elm Springs, one of the many fake projected town sites of this new country, which is fifteen miles south of Lawton. Just as we were on the eve of leaving, Uncle Seborn mentioned something about a horrible dream he had during the night just past, and ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 57 upon tlie fervent entreaty of our unsophisti- cated friend, Mr. Messer, he proceeded to relate to us the details of a most frightful battle he waged with a monster wampus. We arrived at Elm Springs at 9 o'clock. The springs, about fifteen in number, bubbling up from the foot of the craggy, jagged, rocks that crop out sheer and precipitous from the high prairie, or table land, are at the head of a draw about two miles from Cache creek. Leaving Elm Springs, we made a five miles drive to Big Beaver, across beautiful undulat- ing prairies with thousands of thorough-bred, sleek fat cattle grazing lazily over them. We arrived on the banks of Big Beaver at 10:30 o'clock, crossed the creek back of a Comanche Indian's farm, which was wired in, effectually cutting us off as we thought from the open coun- try beyond. While we were debating as to the di- rection to take to iret out of our dilemma, w r e caught sight of a Comanche and his squaw in a two-horse wagon coming towards us in a break- neck gait, we waited for them until they came through the field to where we were. The old "Buck" would not talk, but he soon made us un- 58 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW derstand by signs that lie did not want Ms wire fence cnt. We were not intending to cut the wire to get through; but he seemed to think so, and was very much excited over the matter un- til we finally made him understand that we would do nothing wrong. He then by making other signs directed us around his farm, and bidding him and his pretty squaw good-bye, we were soon out on the beautiful prairie lying be- tween Big and Little Beavers. We passed through the best belt of prairie I have seen in the new country, soil a red chocolate color, grass knee high, and of best quality. However, the lands to which I refer, are all allotted to the Indians, so it is useless for the pale face to linger over the beauties of that particular section. We crossed Little Beaver at 12:30 o'clock, made our last stop before our final run for Dun- can; we stopped there one hour and ate up the very last scrap of our supplies, and had to fall back on the kind hospital) ty of the captain of a prairie schooner which was anchored near by, for twenty-five cents worth of flour to make our bread for dinner. ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 59 After a hearty repast, Frank Carmeyer and I climbed into his light road wagon, leaving the other boys in with Uncle Seborn, and started on our last drive together, for that trip at least. I could not help a feeling of sadness stealing over me, thinking how soon we all should be parted, some of us to never see each other again; but I consoled myself by thinking that in the future, during our retrospective moments, we could find the happy associations of the trip standing boldly forth on the pages of our lives to remind us of the pleasant time spent together in the Comanche country before the developing hand of the white man had reached forth to destroy the beautiful works of nature. We had a pleasant trip to Duncan, bowling along over the prairies, which were dotted here and there with herds of cattle, grazing upon the boun- teous growth of mesquite and blue stem grass- es, that have so stoutly withstood the withering blast of the terrible drouth that has so damaged the whole South-west. Before closing this letter, I must tell you of a funny little incident that occurred this morn- ing, and I was the leading character in the 60 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW corned}', which goes towards making up the scenes on the stage of life that is here being enacted. You know that everybody here is on the qui vive over the drawing which is now going on at El Keno, Okla. My newly made friends and I have spent a great deal of our time in the last few days talking over this exciting event, and of course, forecasting to the best ability of our occult minds, the probable results of our lucky stars. So this morning while I was lazily halt- ing between two opinions as to whether I would lower my own record for early rising and get up, or still cling to the enjoyable state of semi-con- sciousness bordering upon dreamland, I was suddenly brought to a decision instanter when I heard Frank Mayberry, the fourteen year old son of our landlady, say, "Mamma, one of our boarders has drawed a claim." Oh, the music there was in that boy's voice! and as I always had an ear for music, I was all ears then as I strained to catch every golden word, dropping like nuggets of pure gold from the boy's lips. While I was daring to hope that Dame For- tune, the erratic goddess of the world's desire, ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 61 would cast her favored smiles upon me, and I would be the lucky boarder referred to by the young hopeful, there was still something good in store for me even if I should fail to be the winner of the prize, as we participants in the land lottery and fellow boarders had formed a solemn compact, that should one or more of us be so fortunate as to draw a winning number he or they should stand the treats to the losing members of the band. But my pedal extremi- ties hit the floor with something of a thud when I heard the answer to Mrs. Mayberry's follow- ing question: "Which one of the boarders was it, Frank?" and as I caught the reply, "Why, it was Mr. Milam," something like an electric shock seemed to permeate every fibre of my body, and in the mad rush I made to adorn my- self in my accustomed faultless attire — being a member of the homeseekers' 400 — I got my feet mismatched as to shoes, and after a desperate but short struggle with a shirt that opened be- hind, I succeeded in getting it on the wrong side before, and never discovered my mistake until I had made several futile efforts to ar- range a tie in a double bow-knot at the back of 62 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW my neck. However, I was in too great a hurry to correct any errors there might be in the make- up of my toilet; but reaching for my veritable straw, I jammed it down on my head, and mak- ing about three strides, I hit the middle of the street on a run for the post office, where the Wichita, Kansas, Daily Eagle is on sale every morning (this paper always gives the most cor- rect list of the drawing). When I arrived at the post office all the papers had been sold, and there were hundreds of half crazy men cursing the news dealers for not supplying the demand. I tried to purchase a copy from several parties, offering as much as fifty cents; but I was not the only "Ninny on the beach." There were others. Finally I found ensconced in a narrow stairway a young man (whom I later found out was a school teacher by the name of Griffeth from either Limestone or Freestone Counties, Tex.) of pleasing appearance, he was scanning rapidly a copy of that much coveted Eagle, and upon my offer to buy his paper at a Klondike price, he politely informed me that he was about through with it, and when he was, I could have it gratis. I thanked him profusely, and in ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 63 a short time I had the desired object of my soul in my possession ; with nervous hands I hurried- ly turned the pages, until finally running down the columns of names with feverish eyes, I found the name Milam. But what is this I behold? Oh Lord, save me from the cruel hand of fate! Do my eyes deceive me? Are they playing me false in this, the most crucial moment of my life? Oh, if it could only be a deceptive trick of the vision! but 'tis not. It is Milam I see printed in seemingly great expanding letters. Yes, that name that lives in history, and has never trailed in the dust. But where, Oh where is Burt J. Milam? Look along the streets of Duncan, and when you find the most abject, woe-begone, down trodden looking object of all this struggling and excited stream of humanity, just stop right there, for that would be he. To bring this harrowing tale of woe to a sudden stop, that may jar your nerves, I must say it was Edward W. Milam, of Comanche, Okla., that won the farm, and not your better half, Burt J. Noav don't become at all discouraged, dear 64 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW wife, for we may make a closer miss in the next turn of the wheel. Will write you again in a few days and tell you of my trip to Lawton. Devotedly, B. J. MILAM. ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. ^5 LETTER NO. 4. A Trip to Mt, Scott and The Opening of Lawton. THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW. (And Others.) There was an honest farmer Who hailed from Arkansaw, And landed hopeful in Fort Sill To register for a draw. He had thought the matter over, And joined the mighty jam That were there to gamble on the green Like Mary's little lamb. He viewed the situation From every point at hand, Concluded he was lucky And could win a piece of land. When the Company organizers Saw the farmer's face benign, They sweetly murmured, "You want to register? Gome join a Co. and get in line." Up stepped the honest farmer, And doffing his old "straw," Said, "I've tackled jest heaps o' games Now, I'll tackle the game o' draw". 66 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW With cautious steps, he made his way Straight up to the registering booth, And when his final task was done Thought he'd worked it mighty smooth. The farmer looked supremely happy, As through the crowd he pushed with care, Grasping his legally signed certificate Triumphantly waved it in the air. For days and iays he loitered round, And watched the restless thousands come, And read their doom in failure drear, And wondered at their mighty sum. While watching that increasing throng Of suckers like him without protection, He marveled then what chance he had To win a quarter section. The farmer's grub was running low, His stock of nerve was playing out, While his pair of grass-fed bronchos Could scarcely get about. Then Uncle Sam cleared Fort Sill reserve Through his military might, And every one to show his nerve Squatted around the Lawton Site. "This change o' base" the farmer cried, "Just plays into my hand," And through the motley crowd espied The Gambler's visage bland. ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 67 He slyly watched the shell-game man, And quickly spotted the winning shell, But when he saw his lucre van — He kicked and said— "Oh! Well. "Gosh dang! the time has come for me To play these schemes with all my might, So I'll just play a "wheel" or two With the boomers of a new town site. "If things go on as they are going now, I'll stand a darned poor show To get a slice o' Injin land, An' I'll be out a lot o' dough. "I guess I'll stick it out, And buck the whole blamed thing So I can show to Liza Ann The care she gets beneath my wing." Then all the grafters worked their schemes, And reduced this honest farmer's purse Until it looked like thirty cents And he filled the air with many a curse. At length the time for drawing came When the fate of all was known, Then it was this honest farmer Uttered many a piteous moan. For the last turn and call had come, And the game was then played out. "Oh what shall I say to Liza Ann?'' He yelled with a fiendish shout. 68 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW For now he had played the whole layout, And even the town site scheme had busted. And as he mentally scanned the past He with himself became disgusted. "When I get home and try to explain To my own sweet Liza Ann, There certainly will be h — 1 to pay 'Bout this game with Uncle Sam. If ever agin I want a game When I get back to Liza and her shanty , Dear Uncle Sam can keep his land, An' I'll play a smaller ante." So hitching up his ponies To his old ramshackle schooner, He headed back to Arkansaw, Never more to be a "sooner." Duncan, I. T., August 8, 1901. Mrs. Moelie Milam, Lufkin, Texas. Dear Moleie: — Since writing you a history of my five days' trip into and through the mid- dle and southern portions of the Lawton dis- trict of the neAV lands opening up for settle- ment, and composing the new County of Co- manche; I took a rest of six days in Duncan, before I succeeded in getting a crowd to make ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 69 the trip with mc that had been my heart's great- est desire ever since my arrival in this country, which was a trip to the Wichita Mountains and especially Mt. Scott, the highest peak of all the range. On Sunday morning, Aug. 4th, I had every- thing in shape with Mr. Pounder and his splen- did team of black mules, new wagon, covered with a heavy 10-oz. duck wagon-sheet, and three good spring seats, engaged for the trip, with the following named persons making up the party accompanying me, all fellow boarders with me in Duncan. Mr. Frank Messer I will mention first as he was the only one of the party with me on my five days' trip, who was with me on the Mt. Scott trip, and of course, by priority entitled to first place of mention in this letter, and whom we ad- dressed as "Georgia." from the fact that he had told us, in strict confidence, to be sure, (which upon the honor of all of us as gentlemen, shall always be held inviolate) that he had a sweet little gazelle of a sweetheart back in the good old State of Georgia, worth a cool ten thousand in her own right and title, who was even then 70 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW waiting longingly with open arms for his return, and to use George's vernacular, durned if he didn't think the girl and the ten thousand dol- lar scheme beat Uncle Sam's lottery all to hoi- low. You see Frank was one of us unfortu- nates that "bucked" up against the great na- tional game of chance and lost out. Next, I will introduce Mr. Benj. Keeling, of Springtown, Parker County, Texas. Mr. Keeling was ad- dressed on this trip as "Johnson Grass." This name was bestowed upon him by the crowd while killing time in Duncan. He had tried to persuade Mr. Messer to give up the new coun- try, marry the Georgia girl, buy his (Keeling' s) farm in Parker County, Texas, and settle down for life near the thriving neighborhood post of- fice of SpringtoAvn. In the meantime, while Keeling held the innocent Messer under the baneful influence of his smooth tongue, the rest of us were trying to fathom the great interest he was taking in our credulous young friend. How- ever, we had to wait only a short time when in an unguarded moment, Keeling divulged the fact that there were fifteen acres of Johnson grass on his farm, and the reason it was not ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 71 < growing from the outside limits of his farm, and reaching to the center was — that for six long- years he had battled against its encroachments by day, and lay awake nights, trying to devise means to check its growth. It was a fortunate thing for Messer, our unsuspecting friend, that we discovered this perfidy of Keeling in time to save him from a terrible fate. We spent some time discussing an appropriate name to apply to Keeling (the State of Texas has some drastic laws anent the cultivation of Johnson grass) as we did not want his true identity to go out to the world while in our company, and as we could not think of anything meaner or more ignoble, we just called him "Johnson Grass" and to this name he answered as long as our little band existed. Now allow me to in- troduce my warm-hearted friend, "Lady from New Mexico." Hold! my good wife, don't be- come alarmed, but calm thyself while I explain. The person here alluded to is A. W. Wells of Peaster, Texas, and a bigger-hearted, truer fel- low never lived. While narrating to us a short history of a stay of nearly two years in New Mexico, in which narration his misapplication 72 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW of the term "Lady," as applied by himself to acquaintances of his in the rough-and-ready mining camp of Captain, gave rise to a great deal of merriment, and we there and then ap- plied to him the name "Lady from New Mexico," and to that Dame alone would he respond dur- ing our stay together. Mr. H. A. Mothershead of Stephenville, Texas, was the patriarch of our party, and was called and answered to the name of "Texas," and as he was a very moral, modest, and retiring gentleman in his nature, his benign influence acted as a check to hold us wayward and giddy young fellows back in our rudeness, and of course nothing but choice and elegant language was used in the presence of our venerable friend, "Texas." And last but not least, in the estimation of my companions of this trip, I trust, I will mention "Lightning Rod Agent;" sorry am I indeed, to have to try to account to you for this most miserable sobri- quet applied to me by my present comrades. It came about in this way. The first evening while we all were eating our supper together at our boarding house, only a short while after the most of us had met for the first time in our ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 73 lives, even before we knew each other's names, "Johnson Grass" had the temerity to show his usual stock of cheek by saying to me that he had certainly seen me somewhere before. I an- swered that perhaps he had, as I had traveled considerably over the State of Texas; but little dreaming of the slanderous charge he was yet to bring against me. After supper when we were holding our powwow, and were enjoying our evening smoke, to the uttermost astonish- ment of all present, "Johnson Grass" jumped up and yelled, "I have it! I have it!" We all gath- ered anxiously around him, very much concern- ed as to what it was he had, thinking perhaps he might possibly have a severe attack of colic, superinduced by gormandizing upon the boun- teous supply of the good wholesome food fur- nished us by our kind landlady, Mrs. Mayberry, and of which I can say, he was distressingly fond (the food). He finally calmed down enough to say that he had just located me; that he had seen me two or three years ago, selling lightning rods in Parker County, Texas, and had known me very well there; but could not recall my name. Having no proof with Avhich I could 74 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW satisfactorily refute Ms slanderous statements, I thought it best to humor the matter, and ap- parently reluctantly admitted that I was the party he presumed I was, so right there and then, was applied to me the appellation of "Lightning Rod Agent" and to this I answered throughout our trip. However, in a day or so, "Johnson Grass" discovered he was mistaken in my identity, though after it was too late to re- pair the terrible injury he had done me. My object in thus detailing to you so minute- ly the jovial good nature of the individuals who made up the personnel of our party, is to show you the good feeling of fellowship that ex- isted among all classes who made up the enor- mous crowd that were playing Uncle Sam's wheel of fortune for a chance at a 1-4 section of the public domain (?). On my first trip out to Fort Sill to register, where there were from two to four thousand registering each day, I was most forcibly impressed by the sparkling good nature depicted in every countenance and not a word did I hear in anger, or in dissension of any kind whatsoever. Though thousands elbowed and jostled each other in their efforts to hold ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 75 their jxlaces in their respective registering com- panies, and get ahead of some poor fellow crea- ture who was pushing his way through life at a sloAver rate, it was all done in good cheer, and I thought the happiest faces I ever saw were the faces composing the aforesaid companies, as they jammed and crowded each other for a place at the registering booths, cracking their jokes, and making sallies at their comrades whom they had only just met, and perhaps would nev- er see or meet again. We left Duncan at 6:30 o'clock, on the main traveled Duncan and Fort Sill road. It was a beautiful day with a pleasant southwest breeze. We crossed Stage Stand, Kock Creek, and Little and Big Beaver creeks. When about twenty-five miles out we left the main road, and took a new road which bears more to the north, and enters Fort Sill over an iron bridge, which spans Cache creek. We had been traveling over high rolling prai- ries all day, and at 3:30 o'clock we arrived at a point where the level prairie terminates in rug- ged, precipitous cliffs, overhanging the valley of Cache creek. There we stopped the wagon, 76 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW and walked out to the end of a promontory, lying to our left, and extending something like four hundred yards in length, and ending in a sharp point, flat on top, containing, I should think, about three or four acres of level ground, covered with blue stem and mesquite grasses; the extreme point is fully one hundred feet higher than the valley below. I stood upon a large pile of rocks on the point of the promon- tory, or mesa, and took a long, delightful look at the beautiful panorama that lay before my eyes. Cache creek, fringed with a narrow bor- der of beautiful green, with adjacent valleys spreading out on each side until lost in the em- brace of the majestic arms of the prairie, made a lovely picture, and yon could hardly tell where one begins and the other ends. Five miles southwest, I could see Lawton in its almost em- bryonic state, a sea of tents, looking in the dis- tance like a flock of white sea birds resting in a safe haven of retreat after a flight of many weary miles, and historic old Fort Sill directly to the west, perched upon a gently rising hill, and like all places of its kind, now presents that ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 77 sleepy appearance which causes a feeling of en- nui to steal over you in spite of yourself. Leaving this point of interest that I shall never forget, we entered the valley, and just before reaching Fort Sill, passed through the most extensive prairie dog village I have seen in all this country. They seem to be perfectly gentle, for being on the Government Reserve, they are protected by the soldiers instead of being shot and destroyed, and consequently, having been protected for years, they don't know what it is to fear the destroying hands of those who would wantonly shoot them down in cruel sport. They certainly presented a cunning appearance perched upon the little hillock at the entrance to their burrows, and at a yelp from the sentr}^ that is always on guard, they would make a dive downward and disap- pear from sight; but only for a few moments, when their curiosity would overcome their tim- idity, and they would all soon be out again, assuming their previous positions upon the little mounds, ready for another dive into the earth, at the slightest alarm signal from the ever- vigilant guard. 78 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW Just before arriving at Fort Sill, we crossed the Marlowe, Bush Springs, and Lawton wag- on roads, and a sight was presented to our view that perhaps we will never witness again. Just as far as the eye could see along the roads, in either direction, was a solid, unbrok- en line of vehicles of every description, from the most dilapidated, old ram-shackle prairie schooner, to the latest rubber-tired, ball-bear- ing, light-running road wagon, with occasion- ally a horseman, dashing along at a swinging gait, and two or three were noted afoot. I know the question naturally arises in your mind, What means this anxious, wondrous throng, and where can they all be going upon the same errand bent? The story is soon told. Just breathe the magic name, "Lawton," and you have the wonderful secret of the fairies unfolded before you. They have drunk to the dregs the full and overflowing cup of anticipa- tion, and I am forced to make the prediction that there will be thousands who will drain a deeper potation from the bitter cup of realiza- tion. We arrived at the big store in Fort Sill, in ON A LARK SEEIN' THE WEST. 79 whicli the post office is located, at 5:30 o'clock. After making inquiries for mail, we left for an eight-mile drive to a point on Medicine creek, where our driver informed us we would find the best spring in all this country. Medicine creek enters Cache creek, just above where Fort Sill sewers empty, and "Johnson Grass" there perpetrated upon our unsuspecting crowd one of his most execrable witticisms. He wanted to know if any of us knew why it was called Medicine creek. We all gave it up after several futile efforts to clear up the matter, and he thereupon informed us that it was called Medicine because it helped to work out the filth that was deposited in Cache creek from the sewers of Fort Sill. Shortly after leaving Fort Sill, we crossed the target grounds, and striking into the foot- hills of the Wichita Mountains, we entered what is known as the dry belt, which stretches out through the western portion of Comanche County, through Greer, on through the Pan Handle, west to the Kocky Mountains. The grass is a short mesquite, with a growth of 80 THE HONEST FARMER FROM ARKANSAW mesquite trees scattered over the prairies and valleys. Five or six miles from Fort Sill, we came to the settlement of the Apache Indians, located along the east and west hanks of Medicine creek, where the valley is about one mile wide, and the land appeared to be very rich. The Indian's summer home, however, is in his teepee about a dozen families in each village. (The Indian's summer home, however, is in his teepee or wigwam along the banks of the numerous clear water creeks of the country.) The houses, as near as I could tell, consisted of two rooms 12x14 with an 8-foot hall between, making ap- parently, a very comfortable home, and pre- sented a very picturesque and quaint appear- ance, nestling snugly up against the rugged foot-hills of the Wichita Mountains. Strange to say, these Indians, the most recent tribe to come under the protecting arms of our Government, and also a tribe that proved to be the most bloodthirsty, and the most difficult to run down and capture while under the gen- eralship of that cunning old warrior, Geroni- mo, (who, by the way, is now in Buffalo, New —wmri E-